The International Wine Review

April 2008
Report #11 2005 Bordeaux Crus Bourgeois

Introduction

2005 was a great vintage in Bordeaux. Many believe it is the
best vintage since 1982, others look back to 1961, while a few
believe it is the best year ever. Not surprisingly the 2005 vintage
has led to record-high wine prices. For all but the wealthiest
global collectors and investors, the classified growth Bordeaux
have become simply too expensive. But there is still some
tremendous quality at affordable prices if you know where to
look. We believe some of best values in Bordeaux from the
2005 vintage can be found among the wines classified as Cru
Bourgeois.
In this report, The International Wine Review takes a close look
at the wines of the crus bourgeois. We analyze the advances
in Bordeaux in viticulture and winemaking during the past two
decades that have closed the quality gap between these wines
and those of the cru classé. We also examine the styles of Cru
Bourgeois wines produced today in Bordeaux. In addition, the
report examines the history of the Cru Bourgeois classification
and the 2003 classification system that was nullified by the
French courts in 2007. We also provide an update on the present
and future classification system currently under preparation by
the l’Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc. We then examine
the market for the Cru Bourgeois, the factors influencing their
availability and the dishes the Bordelais enjoy with their wines
before discussing the findings of our comprehensive tastings.
In preparation for this report the i-WineReview tasting panel
assessed a selection of over 200 wines from the 2005 vintage
including 125 Cru Bourgeois during a visit to Bordeaux in late
October 2007. The wines tasted were solicited from all Cru
Bourgeois producers contacted on our behalf by the l’Alliance
des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc. The tastings were held blind,
following our practice, and were conducted at Château
In This Issue
Introduction..............................................................Cover
Subscription Information................................................... 2
Acknowledgements...................................................Cover
The iWineReview’s Top Rated 2005 Crus Bourgeois....... 3
Overview of Bordeaux..................................................... 4
How Bordeaux Has Changed.......................................... 4
The Style and Drinkability of the 2005 Crus Bourgeois... 5
The Classification System: Then and Now...................... 6
The Cru Bourgeois Market.............................................. 7
The Bordelaise Culinary Scene........................................ 8
Tasting Notes and Ratings of 2005 Crus Bourgeois........ 9
References and Further Reading................................... 18
Map of Bordeaux........................................................... 19
Past Wine Reports........................................... Back Cover
DÁgassac and Chateau de Pez.
We identified some 50 top rated Cru Bourgeois wines
from the 2005 vintage that merit the special attention of
consumers. (see p. 3). They are terrific wines, all rated 90
points and above and are offered at affordable prices. There
were outstanding wines from virtually every commune of the
Médoc in 2005: Chateau Chasse-Spleen (91) and Chateau

Continued on page 3.
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2
Continued from page 1. The iWineReview’s Top Rated*
Poujeaux (91) from Moulis; Chateau Beaumont (93) and 2005 Crus Bourgeois
Chateau Cambon la Pelouse (92) from Ludon-Médoc ; Chateau
Clarke (92) and Chateau Fonreaud (92) from Listrac; Chateau Margaux
Médoc
Crock (91) from Saint Estephe; and Chateau Labegorce (94)
Château Fontis Château D’Angludet
and Chateau Angludet (92) from Margaux, to mention but a
few. These and the other wines on our list of the top 50 top Château Château D’Arsac
Cru Bourgeois are not just wines to drink while you wait for Les Grandes Chenes Château
your classified growths to mature; these are wines that merit Château Les Ormes Sorbet Deyrern Valentin
cellaring in their own right, and will reward potential buyers Château Loudenne Château Labégorce
for years to come. Tasting notes for all the wines we tasted Château Lousteauneuf Château Mongravey
are provided in the Tasting Notes and Rating Section of the Château Poitevin
report. Château Potensac Moulis
Château Rollan de By Château Anthonic
Château Tour Prignac Château Biston-Brillette
Acknowledgements: Château Tour Saint Bonnet Château Chasse-Spleen
Château Vieux Robin Château Gressier Grand
We would like to express deep appreciation for the
Poujeaux
collaboration and support provided by l’Alliance des Crus
Bourgeois du Médoc, and in particular its President, Thierry Haut Médoc Château Poujeaux
Gardier, and Director, Frédérique Dutheillet de Lamothe. Château DÁgassac
Frédérique and her staff did an outstanding job in organizing Château Barreyres Pauillac
our tastings and meetings in Bordeaux. We also wish to Chateau Beaumont Château Pibran
thank Jean-Luc Zell of Chateau d’Agassac and M.Chazeau, Château
Winemaker at Chateau de Pez for hosting our tastings. We also Cambon La Pelouse Saint- Estëphe
wish to acknowledge the helpful assistance and insights on Château Cap de Haut Château Beau-Site
the Bordeaux wine industry provided by Philippe Dambrine, Château Charmail Château Beau-Site
Château Greysac, Fréderic de Luze, and Marie-Louise Schyler Château de Braude Haut Vignoble
of AXA. We are also grateful to Les Médocaines for arranging
Château Gironville Château
a wonderful Secrets de Bouche Workshop of wine and food
Château Grandis Coutelin-Merville
pairing. Finally, we acknowledge with appreciation our Tasting
Panel, including guest taster, Ben Giliberti, and our editorial Château Haut Madrac Château de Pez
team of Heather Price, Contributing Editor, and Don Winkler, Château Larose-Trintaudon Château La Haye
Senior Editor. We also wish to acknowledge the excellent Château Larrivaux Château Le Crock
contribution made by Shelby Ledgerwood to the section on Château Magnol Chateau Haut-Marbuzet
Cru Bourgeois classification. And finally, we want to thank Château Malescasse Château Phéan-Segur
Kobrand Corporation for their permission to use the map of Château Maucamps Château Tour de Pez
Bordeaux that was skillfully produced by artist Michael Juhn. Château Paloumey Chateau Haut Marbuzet
Château Reysson Château Tour Des Ternes
Jay Youmans, MW
Château Senejac
Mike Potashnik, PhD
Saint- Julien
Publishers, International Wine Review
Listrac Château Lalande
Château Bibian
Château Cap Léon Veyrin
Château Fonréaud
Château Clarke
Château Mayne Lalande
Château Saransot Dupre

* Wines that did not make this list because they were rated 88
and 89 points are also of excellent quality and should be tasted
by consumers. Readers are urged to carefully examine our tasting
notes not just the scores in making their purchases

3
Overview of Bordeaux
Bordeaux is a region of extremes. It is the world’s most
important wine region for both quality and quantity produced.
It is the largest wine region in France and produces more
wine than Australia. At one end of the spectrum are the
elite wines of the crus classés, Pessac-Leognan, St. Emilion
and Pomerol. These wines enjoy unprecedented success in
today’s market. At the other end is the vast ocean of basic
Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superior and the producers who
are struggling to compete with new world counterparts in
Australia, California, Chile, Argentina and South Africa.
The quality standard in Bordeaux, particularly on the left
bank, has always been defined by the crus classés of the
Haut-Médoc; a mere 61 chateaux that were classified and
ranked at a Paris exhibition in 1855. The success of the crus
classés can be attributed to a combination of well draining
gravelly soils, continued investment in the vineyard and
chateau, and the prestige and notoriety of being on this
fabled list. Outside of this classification system, however, are
hundreds of chateaux fighting for respect and recognition.
Many of these unclassified chateaux sought to create a
classification of their own in 1932, the Cru Bourgeois. The
association had the noble goal of redefining its membership
and ranking several times over the past 75 years. By contrast,
the crus classés has had only one chateau change its status
over these many years-- Chateau Mouton in 1973. The most
recent revision of the Cru Bourgeois occurred in 2003; this
proved to be its undoing as we will examine. While the
ranking itself is not an accurate guide to quality in the 2005
vintage, or as we found, style, it does represent a list of
producers intent on producing high quality Bordeaux.
Where are the Cru Bourgeois properties located and who
are the owners? Crus bourgeois properties are spread
throughout the Medoc region with the largest commune
concentrations in Margaux and Saint Estephe. Saint Estephe
had the most Exceptionnel and Superieur rankings in the
2003 classification The Cru Bourgeois classification is perhaps
most important to the producers from the smaller communes
of Listrac-Medoc and Moulis en Medoc, where it accounts
for a much larger percentage (over 60%) of the total number
of properties. In 2005 Cru Bourgeois vineyards accounted
for 44% of the total wine production from the Medoc, a
robust economic figure compared to the 21% produced by
the classified growths. Most properties are small to medium
in size and primarily owned by individuals or families. Many
of the more promient Cru Bourgeois properties are owned
by other cru classe estates, insurance groups, merchants and
negociants – most of whom recognize the potential value in
the Cru Bourgeois classification.
4
How Bordeaux Has Changed
The principal difference between the crus classés, and the
other chateaux, including the crus bourgeois, has always
been the terroir, or soil found in the vineyard. The soil is
the single most important factor determining wine quality
in Bordeaux. Vineyards with gravelly, well draining soils
provide the right conditions to allow Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot to ripen on a consistent basis.
While many of the crus bourgeois possess good soil, it is
more likely that the advances in viticulture and winemaking
have helped them catch up in quality to the crus classés.
Improvements in the vineyard, the viticultural practices
employed, the handling of the fruit at harvest, and
approaches to winemaking at the chateaux, have changed
significantly over the past 20 years.
Today, many chateaux have installed drainage tiles to aid
in draining away rain water during the later stages of the
harvest. Rain occurring just prior to harvest can cause the
berries to swell, diluting the juice, causing the fruit to split,
creating the conditions for rot and mildew, and delaying
ripening. Drainage systems have helped many Cru Bourgeois
producers grow better grapes. Even top level crus classés
with favored sites such as Chateau Latour and Chateau
Pichon Baron have installed drainage systems.
The plant material in the vineyards has improved greatly
over the past 20 to 30 years. Much more attention is paid to
using specific clones of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that
ripen earlier and have better flavors and color. The choice of
rootstock is now determined by much more than phylloxera
tolerance. Today rootstocks are carefully matched to the soil
type. All this has accelerated ripening and improved fruit
quality in the Cru Bourgeois vineyards.
Viticultural practices such as leaf pulling and green harvesting
are being used by producers such as Chateau Tour Des
Termes. This has led to riper flavors and phenolics in the
wines. Leaf pulling helps expose fruit to sunlight, minimizes
shading, and reduces the vegetal, methoxypyrazine aromas
and flavors such as green peppercorn and bell pepper,
characteristic of slightly unripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Green
harvesting, or dropping green clusters prior to, or during
veraison, has helped eliminate unripe fruit and has helped
improve flavor development in the remaining bunches.
During the harvest, producers are now picking fruit much
later and much riper than in years past. Harvest decisions
are based on sugar, flavor, and phenolic ripeness. Many are
using machine harvesters to pick the grapes, while others,
such as Chateau d’Agassac still prefer to pick by hand.
Chateau La Cardonne and Chateau Vieux Landon are now
using machine harvesting as they believe it allows them to
wait longer to pick the fruit at optimal ripeness.
The crus bourgeois, like the crus classé, are being more
selective in the fruit they pick in the vineyard and performing
triage at the winery. Chateaux such as Bessan Segur use
various automated methods of sorting, followed by manual
triage; Chateau Phélan Segur has two sorting tables. Chateau
d’Angludet, Chateau Beaumont, and Chateau Biston-
Brillette , like many chateaux, have begun to destem the
fruit. This has decreased the hard, green astringent tannins.
Chateau Clarke performs a double selection before and
after destemming. This is particularly important in a cooler,
wetter vintage. Chateau Charmail is now experimenting with
new machinery that will allow removal of seeds in a vintage
presenting green tannins and phenolics.
The frequency and amount of chaptalization has continued
to decline in Bordeaux. In a vintage like 2005, chateaux such
as Chateau Saransot Dupre did not need to resort to the
practice, but chaptalization—adding sugar prior to primary
fermentation—is still common among crus classés and crus
bourgeois alike.
Many producers, such as Chateau Paveil De Luze, have
invested heavily in temperature controlled stainless steel
tanks, while Du Taillan prefers a combination of stainless
steel and cement fermentation vessels. Temperature control,
virtually non-existent 20 years ago, is now commonplace
among the crus bourgeois. The ability to control the
temperature and the rate of fermentation is essential to
making high quality wine and is one of the important changes
that have enabled the Cru Bourgeois to produce better
wines today. Chateau Clarke and Chateau Tour Saint-Fort
now use temperature control to perform a cold maceration
pre-fermentation to enhance color extraction.
The experimentation and changes in both the vineyard and
winery have greatly improved the overall quality of the wines
in Bordeaux, and the crus bourgeois in particular. Producers
such as Chateau Paloumey now ferment by parcel in small
vats. Chateau Lamonth-Cissac is experimenting with micro-
oxygenation in helping reduce green tannins and flavors in
cooler years. Chateau d’Agassac is running trials with high
pressure tanks post fermentation to perform pigeage to
extract color without extracting harsh phenolics from the
seeds. Chateau Clarke is using both pumping over and
punching down to extract color and flavor from the cap.
Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme uses thermo-regulated pump
overs for softer extraction of color and tannins.
The approach toward oak aging and matureation of the
wines has changed among the Cru Bourgeois producers.
Better maintenance of the oak has greatly improved the
quality of the Cru Bourgeois. There is a more concerted
effort to avoid high levels of brettanomyces in Bordeaux
in general. Chateau Bessan Segur is using some American
oak barrels, Chateau Citran and Chateau Clarke encourage
malolactic in barrel, better integrating the oak and wine.
Chateau Mongravey is using 100 percent new oak in the
elevage of its wines.
Fining is still done commonly with liquid egg albumen, or
egg whites. A rough filtration is commonplace in the Médoc,
5
although some chateaux, such as Chateau Charmail, feel it
is unnecessary and do not fine or filter their wines at all.
One of the most significant improvements in the quality
of the cru classé over the past 20 years has been the
widespread practice of producing a 2nd or 3rd wine in order
to improve the Grand Vin. Cru Bourgeois producers such as
Phélan Segur have adopted this practice. They now make a
2nd and even a 3rd wine. This has helped elevate and improve
the quality of many of the Cru Bourgeois producers in the
Médoc.
The Style and Drinkability of the
2005 Cru Bourgeois
Because 2005 was an extraordinary vintage, many of the
Cru Bourgeois we tasted were ripe and soft on the palate
and very concentrated. Compared to the 2003 and 2004
Cru Bourgeois the 2005s generally taste riper and are more
accessible at this stage of their development.
There is a notable divergence in style among Cru Bourgeois
wines. There are clearly two camps of producers: modern
and traditional. Many are making more modern styles of
wine, with an emphasis on extraction of color, use of new
oak, and riper fruit flavors and tannins; there are, however,
many producers still producing traditional style wines.
Consumers used to drinking new world wines will find these
traditional wines more austere, tannic, and less fruit forward.
The style of a wine will greatly impact its drinkability and
aging potential. We have not organized the wines based
on style, but our tasting notes should serve as a guide as to
whether it is modern or traditional in style.
Overall, the wines of the Cru Bourgeois from the 2005
vintage will benefit greatly from aging for an additional
3-5 years. While many of the more modern style wines are
approachable now, all of the wines will continue to improve
and gain complexity with additional cellaring. The more
traditional wines will benefit from 5-8 years of bottle age.
The Cru Bourgeois Classification System:
Then and Now
The small and moderate sized producers of Cru Bourgeois
wines in the Médoc have long lived in the shadow of the
1855 classification. Excluded from the original system, and
having no alternative classification system, these estates have
struggled over the years to gain official recognition for the
quality of their wines in an increasingly competitive market.
Despite several attempts--first in 1932, then 1978 and most
recently in 2003--the Cru Bourgeois producers have failed
to create a legally recognized classification system for their
wines. In 2007, the Cru Bourgeois producers launched
another initiative to create a new classification system for
their wines. How does it work and will it succeed? In this
section we analyze the past and current attempts at creating
a Cru Bourgeois classification system, its significance and its
prospects for a successful future.
Previous Classification Systems
The first attempt to establish a Cru Bourgeois classification
system was in 1932 by the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce
and Chamber of Agriculture. The aim was to recognize
deserving properties of the Médoc that were left out of the
famous Cru Classé Classification of 1855. Originally created
as a promotional tool during tough economic times, the
Cru Bourgeois classification was also intended to establish
a hierarchy based on merit. This classification system
recognized 444 properties and divided them into three
tiers according to quality: 6 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels,
99 Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs and 339 Crus Bourgeois.
Although the Cru Bourgeois designation appeared on the
labels of these producers for more than six decades, the
classification was never officially recognized by the national
government and thus never codified by law. Consequently,
the “Cru Bourgeois” designation had little meaning.
By the 1960s there were only 94 Cru Bourgeois properties
remaining of the original 1932 classification. The other
properties had been grubbed up, turned to pasture or
other crops; abandoned or consolidated. The Syndicat des
Crus Bourgeois du Médoc was created to reestablish the
presence and reputation of the Cru Bourgeois. New rankings
commenced in 1966 and again in 1978, but only properties
that were members of the Syndicat were classified, excluding
many reputable chateaux. Unfortunately the term Cru
Bourgeois continued to be unregulated and was often used
for second wines or non-classified properties altogether.
Even properties outside of the Médoc in Blaye, Bourg and
Sauternes claimed a generic ‘ Cru Bourgeois’ status, leading
to further confusion and debasement of the classification.
The European Union regulations in 1979 permitted only
the words ‘Cru Bourgeois,’ which led to the stripping of the
ranks Exceptionnel and Superieur and left instead a single
term for all properties.
2003 Cru Bourgeois Classification System
In November 2000 a ministerial decree provided a framework
for a new Cru Bourgeois classification that was launched in
2003. Under this new system, 247 properties were divided
into 3 tiers: 9 Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel, 87 Cru Bourgeois
Superieur and 151 Crus Bourgeois were officially recognized.
Some 412 properties of the Médoc had been deemed
eligible originally, but a few top estates (notably, Chateaux
Gloria and Sociando-Mallet) did not apply, considering the
classification irrelevant. A property’s inclusion and ranking
were based on several factors, including: terroir, upkeep of
6
the property, commercial reputation and a tasting analysis of
the most recent six vintages. Dominique Hessel, president
of the Syndicat in 2001, had optimistically stated, “It is also
recognition for our better producers and it provides real
initiative for lower quality properties to raise their levels.”
A jury composed of 18 wine professionals, including three
members of the Syndicat, took approximately 18 months to
review the properties.
The charter for the 2003 classification included numerous
rules designed to improve wine quality and consumer
perception: no bulk wine; mandatory chateau bottling;
heavy format bottles; quality control sampling; specified
release dates; no reference to cuvee or special bottlings;
and no unregulated terms on the front label, such as old
vines or barrel aged. The new system also provided for a
plan to review the ranking every 12 years.
The 2003 classification system created a great deal of
controversy. Some 77 properties that were excluded
altogether, or who did not achieve the ranking they felt
they deserved, organized to challenge the validity of the
jury process. One of the most vocal was Yvon Mau, owner
of Chateau Preuillac, who said “I am outraged. It is a
huge injustice to be judged on the past and not present
performance.” The issues of the suit included: an impartial
jury (several property owners were on the board); no
explanation as to how the rankings were determined; not
all of the properties were visited; second wines were illicitly
allowed (Chateau Haut-Marbuzet/Chambert Marbuzet.)
In the end, several court rulings came down from 2004 to
2006, eventually stripping all ranking and reinstating the
single title Cru Bourgeois for all properties. The final nail in
the coffin was in 2007 with the complete ban of the term ‘
Cru Bourgeois’ due to the lack of an official legal definition.
Shortly after the classification
disputes began in 2004, the
Syndicat was dissolved and
replaced by L’Alliance des Crus
Bourgeois du Médoc. L’Alliance
was given the directive of
overseeing the classification
process, quality control and promoting Cru Bourgeois
wines. As the court cases unfolded and the classification of
2003 unraveled, it became apparent that L’Alliance would
have a long road ahead. Frederique de la Motte, director
of the L’Alliance said after the annulment and ban in 2007;
“We will absolutely be trying again, and looking to redo
the classification. Right now, you can’t use the term at
all and that’s a disaster for all the property owners of Cru
Bourgeois.”
Rebirth
The crus bourgeois took a deep breath as l’Alliance unveiled
a solution to the annulment and ban at a General Assembly
meeting in February 2008. Under the new rules ‘Cru
Bourgeois’ would be granted on a case by case basis and
serve as an annual designation of quality. The determination
for inclusion is to be based on the production facility and
the quality of the wine, as determined by an independent
review board. While the production rules have yet to be
finalized, they are likely to include a guarantee of 18 months
aging in oak barrel. Qualification is to be obtained annually
and any property within the Médoc can apply. As well, the
rankings within the classification have been eliminated–in
other words, no more Exceptionnel or Superieur levels.
Ninety percent of the 275 members of l’Alliance voted for
the new classification rules. Lamothe adds, “We hope to
have validation from the French authorities by July of this
year. But this is a huge step forward.” If approved, the latest
classification will come into effect in the spring of 2009 with
the release of the 2007 vintage.
What does all this signify for the consumer who plans to
purchase the 2005 Cru Bourgeois or other vintages? What
does Cru Bourgeois mean when it appears on the label?
(see box) While no classification system can ultimately
guarantee wine quality, it can offer consumers a way of
sorting properties into basic quality levels. It can also help
the Cru Bourgeois producers gain recognition for their wines
by the negociants who play a critical role in finding export
markets for Bordeaux wines.
Perhaps the fiasco with the re-classification of Cru Bourgeois
is a gift in disguise, forcing the producers to stand on the
quality of the wine. Olivier Sèze of Château Charmail says
simply, “Wine is the only important thing for the consumer.”
In other words it is quality that concerns consumers, not
the classification itself. It is easy to see why so many rely
on the 100 point scale for purchasing advice—it is easy to
understand and equate to wine quality. Cru Bourgeois has
the opportunity to become a relevant term to consumers
but only if it offers valuable information in the form of insight
into wine quality.
What does the Cru Bourgeois Label Mean?
• Vintages 2002 and earlier: Labels may only use the
words ‘Cru Bourgeois.’ It is a one level, umbrella term,
encompassing all 444 properties from the 1932 classification.
There is no external review of wine quality.
• Vintages 2003–2005 and 2006: Labels should carry one
of three quality rankings from the 2003 classification: Cru
Bourgeois Exceptionnel, Cru Bourgeois Superieur or Cru
Bourgeois. Rankings were determined by review board.
• Vintage 2007 and beyond (if approved): Only the
words ‘Cru Bourgeois’ will be allowed on the label. It will
be granted annually to any producer from the Médoc who
applies and is deemed worthy by an external review board.
The examination includes both the property and the wine
quality. There will be no rankings within Cru Bourgeois.
7
The Cru Bourgeois Market
The Bordeaux wine industry is immense with almost ten
thousand producers. Thought of as a pyramid with the
highest quality (and highest priced) wine at the top and
the lowest at the bottom, Cru Bourgeois is placed near the
top, just below the region’s relatively small number of elite
chateaux and just above the very large number of producers
of inexpensive wine that is often sold in bulk. The elite
chateaux—the crus classés included in the 1855 Classification
of Médoc plus other high prestige, high quality wines from
Graves, Pomerol and Saint-Emilion—have benefited greatly
from global economic growth in recent decades. The newly
wealthy from around the globe have demanded the most
prestigious brand names in all goods and services, and
Bordeaux has been no exception. Since the supply from the
elite chateaux is limited, the result has been an explosion
in price, both in absolute terms and relative to the less
prestigious wines of Bordeaux.
There is little evidence that the high demand for cru classé
has spilled over in any significant way to Cru Bourgeois. As
revealed in our tastings, the 2005 vintage held a number of
very high quality Cru Bourgeois, comparable in quality to very
good California or Washington State Cabernet Sauvignon.
Yet the prices of these very high quality Cru Bourgeois are
modest, especially in relation to either cru classé or New
World Bordeaux blends of similar quality. Why is this so?
Why, especially in an exceptional vintage like 2005, hasn’t
the price of Cru Bourgeois increased significantly?
The Cru Bourgeois marketplace, indeed the Bordeaux
wine marketplace, is ruled by history and tradition, and the
negociant plays an extremely important role in this tradition.
Unlike a California winery, the Cru Bourgeois chateau has
traditionally played a minor role in marketing and selling its
own wine. Instead, it relies on the negociant to play the role
of broker in selling its wine to domestic and international
buyers. The typical Bordeaux negociant (and there are about
300 of them) represents a large number of chateaux, and
a given chateau is represented by several negociants. Just
as each negociant has a list of chateaux that it traditionally
represents, so, too, does it have a list of traditional clients,
including US importers. In an exceptional vintage like 2005,
the negociant sticks with his traditional clients despite what
may be new, perhaps temporary, demand from elsewhere.
The weight of history and tradition, and the power of the
negociant, lend stability to the market, but they also limit
availability in the US in an exceptional vintage.
The distribution of Cru Bourgeois is quite different than that
of many other wines imported to the US. For most wines,
there may be one importer or one importer per region of
the US. The importer then has an incentive to actively market
the wines he represents as the more wine sold, the larger his
revenue. For a specific Cru Bourgeois chateau, there may be
multiple importers, just as there are many negociants selling
the wine. This multiplicity of importers and sellers means that
an importer actively marketing a specific chateau may help
increase the sales of that wine imported by someone else.
In other words, the distribution of Cru Bourgeois provides
weak incentives for actively marketing the wine by the
importer or distributor. At the same time, the traditional Cru
Bourgeois chateau does not actively market on its own, in
part due to the cost of doing so in a dispersed marketplace.
It’s no accident that the chateaux that advertise aggressively
in focused markets appear to have had greater success
increasing sales and raising prices.
This report identifies a number of Cru Bourgeois wines of
high quality and exceptional value. Yet, it’s difficult for most
American consumers to actually find and purchase many of
these wines. Why isn’t it easier for the consumer to purchase
wine from a specific Cru Bourgeois chateau? One part of the
answer lies with the negociant, who may not traditionally
represent this chateau in the US and who will not antagonize
traditional markets to placate high US demand for an
exceptional vintage. Another part of the answer lies with
the wine distributor and the wine merchant, both of whom
have limited shelf space—and limited budget for inventory--
for any given wine category, such as Cru Bourgeois. On the
other hand, distributors and merchants follow trends in
consumer demand for wine, which in turn is influenced by
professional evaluations like those done by this publication.
As the quality of Cru Bourgeois continues to grow, market
demand will eventually encourage merchants to give it
greater shelf space. Marketing activities of the Alliance that
publicize quality improvements and raise the overall image
of the industry will over time entice lovers of cru classé to
recognize the quality and value of Cru Bourgeois.
The Bordelais Culinary Scene
The wines of Bordeaux are world renowned yet little is
known about the culinary achievements in this important
region. What local dishes do Bordelais chefs prepare to
accompany fine wines? Do these dishes suggest what the
rest of us should pair with our Cru Bourgeois wine and other
wines of Bordeaux? We think so.
The Gironde has many great culinary assets. It has exceptional
products like Pauillac lamb, Bazas beef, Arcachon oysters,
Gironde caviar, lamprey and Blayais asparagus. Other
specialties include the Confit d’Oie (potted preserved duck)
and, from the forests, wild berries such as strawberries, and
cepes, a large flat-top mushroom that is usually sauteed in
butter, the preferred cooking method in Bordeaux kitchens.
Lamb is a treat in Bordeaux, especially animals that have
been reared along the seashore and riverbanks. Like a
number of other dishes in Bordeaux, it is often prepared
with a light touch of garlic. Pauillac lamb is prepared in many
different ways, such as a whole roasted saddle, roasted fillets
or mixed with curry, sweet potato and onion in filo pastry.
8
Entrecôte is the
premium beef cut of
choice in Bordeaux
for steaks and roasts.
Entrecôte Bordelaise—
rib-eye steak in red wine
with shallots—served
with sautéed potatoes
or frites and haricots
verts is a sublime dish
and perfect for local
wines. So is Entrecôte
Bearnaise—rib-eye
steak with Bearnaise sauce, a zesty twist on Hollandaise
punctuated with tarragon.
Bazas beef is also prepared in a variety of ways such as an
onglet with vegetables, as oxtail in Cannelloni Gratinee with
parmesan cheese, or as a fillet of beet with foie gras.
Lamproie à la bordelaise is a favorite recipe of the Gironde.
Lamprey is abundant on the banks of the Dordogne during
the mating season in April and is typically prepared with red
wine sauce with chocolate and accompanied with leeks.
Shad with sorrel is another seasonal dish. Shad swims up the
Gironde River in the spring to lay its eggs. This boney fish is
usually cooked in white wine with sorrel or cooked whole or
in steaks on the grill.
There are many fine Bordelais vegetable dishes, but none is
more appealing than Blayais asparagus. Blayais asparagus
can be roasted and served with a sauce of savory sabayon
and shavings of the renowned Spanish pata negra ham. The
Médoc cepe mushroom also pairs beautifully with most Cru
Bourgeois wines, which are themselves earthy in character.
Cepes are served in salads with roasted vegetables or with
cream in rich soups, and also as a flavorful companion to
terrines of foie gras.
These are just some of the many flavorful ingredients and
dishes from Bordeaux to be enjoyed with Cru Bourgeois
wines. While the ingredients in these dishes are native to
Bordeaux, readers will find their own local equivalents.
Likewise, there should be no difficulty finding Cru Bourgeois
wines that pair well with the dishes described above, except
perhaps for some of the more delicate fish and seafood. Be
adventurous.
 Les Médocaines –Wine and Food Pairing Workshops
In Bordeaux today, four women who each own a Cru Bourgeois winery form
a group called Les Médocaines that aims to demystify and promote wine by
organizing programs and tours to their wineries. Tours are held throughout the
season offering tourists the opportunity to participate in the harvest, to learn about
blending and about pairing wine and food. Les Médocaines offer cooking and wine
and food pairing workshops with chef Guelle Benoiste-Pillotre where they explore
different flavors and textures in pairing food with their wines. The International
Wine Review team participated in one of the Médocaines’ workshops and found
their food and wine pairings innovative and intriguing. The four Médocaines are:
Martine Cazeneuve, Chateau Paloumey; Marie-Laure Lurton, Chateau La tour de
Bessan; Armelle Falcy-Cruse, Chateau du Tailla; and Florence Lagragette, Chateau
Loudenne. Their website is: www.lesMédocaines.com.

2005 Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois: Tasting the nose. On the palate it displays an austere character with
Notes and Ratings blackcurrant fruit and firm chewy tannins. Still young.

Château Fontis 2005 Médoc ($15) 90

Médoc
Château L’Argenteyre 2005
Médoc ($NA) 89
Opaque purple ruby in color, this
bottling offers aromas of plum,
cedar and a touch of spice. A
blend of 55% Cabernet, 45%
Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc,
it is rustic in style, exhibiting ripe dark fruit with big chewy
tannins that will need a few years of cellaring to soften.
Château des Cabans 2005 Médoc ($14) 87
The medium ruby bottling is a blend of 70% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. It displays a tomato leaf nose
with a touch of tobacco and tea. On the palate it reveals
light and slightly tart black fruit, a medium body and a short
finish. Website: www.château-descabans.com
Château La Cardonne 2005 Médoc ($25) 87
La Cardonne is run along commercial lines with extensive
vineyards that are machine-harvested. The 2005 La
Cardonne reveals a dark ruby color with aromas of plum,
black current and cedar. Spending18 months in oak, one-
third new, the wine exhibits dark plum fruit on the palate
with medium concentration and dry tannins on the finish.
Jacques Boissenot serves as consultant oenologist.
Château D’ Escurac 2005 Médoc ($22) 87
This small estate has produced very good wines in the past
and most notable is its 1996. From our perspective, its 2005
bottling is only of average quality. A 50-50 blend of Cabernet
and Merlot, this medium dark ruby garnet wine offers
pleasant aromas of black currants, plum, tea and vanilla on
Owner Vincent Boivert is reputed to make light style wines,
preferring elegance over power. His dark ruby garnet 2005
Chateau Fontis reveals both. It is a blend of 50% Merlot
and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and offers a complex nose of
blackcurrant, caramel, and soy followed by a sweet, round
and ripe attack with prominent oak notes, delicious red and
black fruits flavors, medium concentration and a lovely long
finish. An excellent effort.
Château Les Grands Chênes 2005 Médoc ($25) 93
This property was purchased by Bernard Magrez in 1998
and since then the quality of wine produced on this estate
has steadily improved. The delicious and modern 2005 Les
Grands Chênes blends 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet.
Modern in style it displays a dark ruby opaque color with
aromas of dark plum, pencil shaving and cedar on the nose.
On the palate it boasts luscious, sweet black cherry fruit with
chocolate notes and round tannins. Polished, opulent and
drinkable now but also age worthy.
Château Greysac 2005 Médoc (NA) 89
Château Greysac has produced some fine wines over the
years under the management of Philippe Dambrine, who
also runs Château Cantemerle. The fruit on this estate is
machine-harvested and the wine spends twelve months in
oak barrels, 20% new. The 2005 Greysac displays a medium-
dark ruby color with aromas of plum and blackcurrant fruit on
the nose. Traditional Bordeaux in style it offers a lush attack
with moderately ripe and earthy black currant fruit flavors,
good acidity and balance and a firm finish. Website:
www.greysac.com.

9
Château Grivière 2005 Médoc ($NA) 86
Château Grivière is managed by the same group that runs
Château La Cardonne. The 2005 Grivière is medium to dark
ruby in color and offers aromas of sweet black cherry fruit,
cedar, and ash along with a touch of asphalt. Although soft
on the attack it reveals aggressive tannins and grip on the
finish. Website: www.domaines-cgr.com
Château La Tour de By 2005 Médoc ($20) 85
Dark ruby in color, the 2005 La Tour de By exhibits aromas of
cranberry, a touch of rubber boot aromas and a soft attack
of tart fruit on the palate.
Château Les Ormes Sorbet 2005 Médoc ($20) 91
This blend of 65% Cabernet, 30% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot
displays a dark ruby color and offers aromas of blackcurrant
and black cherry with lavender notes and a hint of oak. The
palate is rich with ripe black fruit and a touch of mocha. It is
also nicely balanced with good tannic grip. A beautiful wine.
8,300 cases produced. Website: www.ormes-sorbet.com
Château Loudenne 2005 Médoc ($22) 93
One of the outstanding Cru Bourgeois wines of the vintage,
the 2005 Château Loudenne displays
a dark ruby opaque core with a very
attractive nose of blackberry, spice and
clove. On the palate it reveals an attack
of ripe, lush and deeply concentrated
blackberry fruit and lovely oak notes.
Its chewy tannins will benefit from
2 to 3 years of additional aging. A
beneficiary of the consulting services
of Michel Rolland. Website: www.lafragette.com
Château Lousteauneuf 2005 Médoc ($20) 90
The modern-styled Lousteauneuf displays a dark ruby color
with aromas of dark fruits and menthol on the nose. On the
palate it boasts a lush attack of soft ripe dark cherry fruit
framed in vanillin oak with good concentration and soft
round tannins. An excellent effort.
Château Patache D’Aux 2005 Médoc ($25) 88
The Château Patache D’Aux is a blend of 60% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3%
Petit Verdot. It spends 12 months in oak, (one third
new) and is earthy in character with a medium dark ruby
color, aromas of blackcurrants, cherry and vanilla and
a medium-bodied palate of blackberry with somewhat
gritty tannins. Website: www.domaines-lapalu.com
Château Poitevin 2005 Médoc ($16) 90
The 2005 Poitevin displays plum fruit and prominent green
herbal tea aromas on the nose. On the palate, this blend of
55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot,
boasts a soft attack of fresh plum fruit and chewy tannins
that will require a few years to soften and integrate in this
lovely wine.
10
Château Potensac 2005 Médoc
($25) 90
The 2005 Potensac, a blend of 41%
Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 19% Cabernet Franc exhibits
fresh red fruit aromas with a touch
of earth. Light-medium-bodied
on the palate it reveals more red fruit and round firm tannins
need time to soften. Potensac’s owners, the Delon Family,
who also own Léoville Las Cases and Clos du Marquis,recently
introduced notable improvements in vineyard management
and winemaking on this fine 200-year-old family estate.
Château Ramafort 2005 Médoc ($27) 87
This 50-50 blend of Cabernet and Merlot exhibits a dark
ruby color with aromas of ripe blackberries and a touch of
new leather. On the palate it displays ripe red and black fruit
with medium concentration and a firm finish. Website:
www.domaines-cgr.com
Château Rollan de By 2005 Médoc
($20) 92
Owner Jean Guyon’s Merlot-based
Rollan de By is one of the stars of the
vintage. It reveals an opaque core of
ripe blackcurrant fruit with notes of
white ash, licorice, cedar and a touch of
smoke. Aged in 100% new French oak
with three months on the lees, this lovely
wine offers a lush attack and generous
mouth feel of ripe plum and cassis fruit flavors. Still young,
the wine displays big chewy tannins that need more bottle
age to soften. Website: www.rollandeby.com
Château Saint Hilaire 2005 Médoc ($40) 85
This is a tart and slightly under ripe wine with a dark ruby
color and aromas of dark plum, herbs, spice and floral
notes.
Château Tour Prignac Médoc ($17) 91
This delicious wine from the 147-hectare estate of Château
Tour Prignac is a blend of 57% Merlot, 40% Cabernet
Sauvignon and small amounts of Malbec and Cabernet
Franc. Dark ruby in color, it exhibits aromas of plum, orange
peel and a touch of black pepper. It offers a soft attack of
sweet dark cherry and blackcurrant fruit with good structure
and balance and a firm finish. Well done. Website: www.
château-castel.com
Château Tour Saint Bonnet 2005 Médoc ($15) 90
The 2005 Château Tour Saint Bonnet is a lovely wine with
a medium ruby color and ripe blackcurrant fruit aromas
on the nose. On the palate, it reveals a soft attack of lush
velvety mouth filling fruit, excellent balance and length on
the finish. Offered at a terrific price. Website: www.tour.
saint.bonnet.free.fr
Vieux Château Landon 2005 Médoc ($NA) 88 Château Beaumont 2005
This estate has been operated by numerous generations Haut Médoc ($18) 93
of wine growers dating back to 1607. Its current bottling, The 2005 Château Beaumont,
a blend of 70% Cabernet, 25% Merlot and 5% Malbec traditional Bordeaux blend of
displays a dark ruby opaque core and aromas of black Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
cherry, herbs and green olives. It has a round ripe attack Cabernet Franc and Petit
but is somewhat dry and astringent in the mouth and on Verdot, exhibits a dark ruby
the finish. This wine will benefit from 1 to 3 years of bottle with an opaque core and has
aging. enticing aromas of black cherry
fruit with a touch of ash and smoke on the nose. Plush and
Château Vieux Robin velvety on the attack it boasts lots of ripe blackcurrant and
2005 Médoc ($30) 91 plum fruits framed in toasty oak. A very polished and modern
The 2005 Château Vieux Robin displays a style with a soft and long lasting finish. The 2005 Beaumont
dark ruby color with a garnet hue. It offers is widely available in the US and offered at a terrific price.
rich black cherry and currant fruit with
toasty oak notes. Aged for 18 months in Château Cambon La Pelouse
new and used barrels, it displays medium 2005 Haut-Médoc ($30) 92
acidity, ripe tannins and a long lasting The 2005 Château Cambon La
finish. 6,000 cases produced of this Pelouse is a blend of 60% Merlot,
delicious wine. Website: www.château-vieux-robin.com 34% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 6% Cabernet Franc. It
Haut Médoc exhibits a dark ruby color with
an opaque core. Spending
Château D’ Agassac 2005 Haut- 12 to 15 months in 40% new barrels, it boasts aromas of
Médoc ($35) 90 black cherry with mocha and cocoa notes and has rich dark
The 2005 Château D’ Agassac fruit and cocoa flavors with smooth ripe velvety tannins.
is a blend of 50% Merlot, 47% A delicious wine. Website: www.cambon-la-pelouse.com
Cabernet and 3% Cabernet
Franc. It displays a beautiful Château Cap de Haut 2005 Haut-Médoc ($14) 90
dark ruby color and has a soft This blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and 16%
attack of ripe concentrated black Cabernet Franc has an opaque ruby color with aromas of red
cherry and blackberry fruit flavors. Still very young, it reveals currant and cherry fruit and a touch of mushroom on nose.
excellent balance and structure with big round tannins. The attack is soft followed by nicely extracted blackcurrant
While drinkable now, this bottling will benefit from a year or fruit with notes of cocoa. The finish has rather big, chewy,
more of cellaring. Website: www.agassac.com aggressive tannins, which need time to settle down.

Château d’Arche 2005 Haut-Médoc ($25) 88 Château Charmail

This bottling is a blend of 40% Merlot, 45% Cabernet
Sauvignon with small amounts of Petit Verdot, Cabernet
Franc and Carmenere. It displays a youthful dark purple,
ruby core with bright dark cherry fruit aromas on the nose
with notes of charcoal. On the palate it is medium bodied
with sweet ripe fruit and a somewhat short finish. Website:
www.malher-besse.com
Château d’Arcins 2005 Haut Médoc ($20) 88
Traditional in style, the 2005 Château d’Arcins displays a
dark ruby garnet color with an earthy herbal nose. A blend
of 55% Cabernet and 45% Merlot it is soft on the attack with
bright, dark fruit and touches of mushroom and leather with
restrained use of oak.
Château Barreyres 2005 Haut Médoc ($20) 90
A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot, this
bottling boasts aromas of sweet cherry and violet with vanilla
notes. On the palate it offers more cherry fruit and spice
with a touch of cedar and dill and a long lasting finish.
2005 Haut Médoc ($25) 90
This estate has produced a
supple blend of 50% Merlot, 30%
Cabernet Sauvignon, and 18%
Cabernet Franc with a touch of
Petit Verdot. It offers ripe and
sweet cassis fruit with smoky cedar
notes. Beautifully balanced with lots of tannins, unfined and
unfiltered, it drinks well now, but would benefit from a year
or more of cellaring. 10,000 cases produced.
Château Citran 2005 Haut Médoc ($25) 87
This bottling is dark ruby in color and boasts aromas of ripe
dark fruits on the nose with a suggestion of spicy oak. The
palate is soft on the attack although somewhat tart and has
rounded tannins. Website: www.citran.com
Château Clêment-Pichon
2005 Haut-Médoc ($18) 91
The Clêment-Pichon is made in a modern
style and displays a lovely ruby color with
aromas of red berries, clove, green olive,

11
and a touch of wood spice. On the palate it exhibits elegant
mouth feel with ripe and spicy plum and cherry fruit. It is
beautifully balanced and has rounded tannins with a firm
finish. Website: www.vignobles.fayat.com
Château Corconnac 2005
Haut Médoc ($22) 87
This Haut-Médoc estate, known for its
meticulous vineyard management, offers
a 2005 Cru Bourgeois of 70% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. Medium-
ruby in color, it boasts black current
aromas and a touch of green pepper on
the nose. Aged for 12 to 14 months in 1-
and 2-year-old oak barrels, it is medium-bodied and shows
good structure, with ripe black fruit flavors, a dry and tart
mid-palate and firm tannins on the finish.
Château Coufran 2005 Haut-Médoc ($25) 88
The 2005 Coufran, a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet
displays a dark ruby opaque core and ripe blackberry fruit
with a nose of wild herbs, cedar, black cherry and mocha
notes. Polished and modern in style, it boasts red and
black cherry fruit flavors with vanilla notes, medium weight,
and gripping tannins. Give this wine 1 to 3 years before
drinking.
Château Dasvin Bel Air 2005 Haut Médoc ($) 88
This ruby colored bottling displays aromas of ripe
plum with a slightly meaty character and a touch of
spice. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30%
Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, it offers a sweet fruit
attack with moderate concentration and a firm finish.
Château de Braude 2005 Haut-Médoc ($25) 94
The 2005 Château de Braude is among the top Cru Bourgeois
of the vintage. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30%
Merlot, it is dark ruby garnet in color and displays complex
aromas of blackcurrants, violets, leather and tobacco. On the
palate, it boasts highly concentrated black fruit flavors, supple
mouth feel, firm tannic structure and a long finish. Château
de Braude is part of the superb estate of Château Mongravey
but has a different name because it is located in the Haut
Médoc AOC. Superb. Website: www.château-mongravey.fr
Château de Gironville 2005 Haut-Médoc ($45) 91
A blend of 47% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10%
Petit Verdot, the 2005 Gironville boasts spicy high toned
dark fruit with a touch of earth. Aged in new and used French
and Hungarian oak for 14 months, it reveals a velvety, sweet
attack of black fruits, a medium body and round ripe tannins.
A nicely made wine.
Château de Lamarque 2005 Haut Médoc ($18) 88
The 2005 de Larmarque displays a dark ruby purple color with
black cherry aromas and a touch of spicy vanillin. It boasts
a soft attack, a medium-bodied palate, good concentration
of ripe plum flavors, chewy tannins, and a somewhat short,
firm finish.
12
Château de Malleret 2005 Haut Médoc ($23) 88
This bottling is dark ruby in color and boasts a roasted nose
with a touch of black olive. It reveals a soft sweet attack of
red fruits and leather with gripping tannins on the finish.
Château de Retout 2005 Haut Médoc ($NA ) 89
This estate has benefited from vineyard replantings and
winemaking improvements made by its owners, the Kopp
family, in recent years. The 2005 de Retout exhibits a dark
ruby opaque color with rich aromas of blackberry and
blueberry fruit. The attack is soft and fruit forward. The palate
is rich and concentrated with blackberry and cherry fruit and
big ripe tannins. E-mail: contact@chateau-du-retout.com
Château de Villambis 2005 Haut Médoc ($20) 85
Medium to dark ruby in color, this bottling offers a candied
red fruit one-dimensional nose. It is light and tart with some
tea and herbal notes and drying tannins on the finish.
Château de Villegeorge 2005 Haut Médoc ($NA) 87
The 2005 de Villegeorge displays a dark purple ruby color
with aromas of cranberry and dried black cherry. It is soft
on the attack with medium acidity on the palate along with
some tartness and chewy tannins. A wine from Vignoble
Marie-Laure Lurton.
Château du Moulin Rouge 2005 Haut-Médoc ($25) 88
This bottling, a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50%
Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot, offers a soft lush attack of black
fruit and spice. It is nicely extracted but has some aggressive
tannins that need cellar time to soften.
Château du Taillan 2005 Haut-
Médoc ($20) 89
Dark ruby with a touch of
garnet on the rim, this du
Taillan boasts a full frontal
attack of dark cherry and cassis
fruit with notes of cedar and
forest floor. Medium to full bodied on the palate, it also has
ripe, firm tannins that should soften over time.
Château Duthil 2005 Haut-Médoc ($) 89
Medium dark ruby in color, the 2005 Château Duthil is a
blend of 55% Cabernet and 45% Merlot. It displays attractive
herbal and earthy aromas with a touch of oak and a soft lush
attack of black fruit and cocoa. It finishes with firm rounded
tannins.
Château Fontesteau 2005 Haut Médoc ($NA) 90
This dark ruby bottling displays a nose of black fruit with
complex aromas of mushrooms, earth, toasty oak and
vanillin. A medium-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon-based
blend, it offers a rich attack of blackcurrant fruit and chewy
tannins on the finish.
Château Grandis 2005 Haut Médoc ($24) 92
The stylish Grandis displays a youthful dark ruby, opaque
core and aromas of dried fruit, mushroom, and forest floor.
Blended with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and
10% Cabernet Franc, the palate reveals a ripe lush mouth
feel with flavors of dried cherries and hints of licorice.
Round firm tannins and a long lasting finish contribute to
the overall high quality and age worthiness of this wine.
Château Haut Madrac 2005 Haut-Médoc ($NA ) 91
A full-bodied blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet
Sauvignon, the 2005 Haut Madrac displays a classic cru-
classé style. It boasts a dark ruby opaque core with aromas of
dark fruits, cedar, spice, pencil shavings, and smoked herbs
on nose. On the palate it is rich and lush and full bodied with
ripe fruit, excellent balance and big ripe tannins.
Château La Tonnelle 2005 Haut Médoc ($14) 86
This blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and 4%
Petit Verdot displays a dark ruby color and boasts aromas
dominated by oak. It reveals a light-bodied palate that is
dominated by oak and drying tanning on the finish. Cases
produced: 12,500
Château Lachesnaye 2005 Haut Médoc ($40) 86
One of three estates of Domaines Bouteiller, this 50-50
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot displays a medium
to dark ruby color with a candied plum and cherry nose.
Slightly light on the palate, it reveals good structure but is
rather short on the finish. 600 cases produced.
Château Lamothe-Cissac 2005 Haut Médoc ($25) 87
The 2005 Lamothe-Cissac is a blend of 70% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet
Franc. It exhibits a dark ruby color with a pretty nose of dark
red mulberry fruit and meat, wood spice and clove notes. It
is soft on the attack with a lean mid-palate and a short finish.
14,000 cases produced.
Château Liversan 2005 Haut-Médoc ($13) 87
A blend of 50% Cabernet, 40% Merlot and small amounts
of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2005 Liversan
is dark ruby in color and exhibits aromas of blackcurrant,
sandalwood and tea. Soft on the attack, the palate shows
blackcurrant fruit, medium acidity, and gripping tannins
throughout which will hopefully soften in time. 15,000 cases
produced. Website: www.domaines-lapalu.com
Château Larose-Trintaudon 2005
Haut Médoc ($15) 90
This Larose-Trintaudon consists of
65% Cabernet and 35% Merlot. It
exhibits a dark ruby color and a highly
polished nose of ripe dark plum fruit,
vanilla and cedar. It boasts a soft
and velvety attack of black fruit with
notes of green olive and herbal tea, firm tannins, and a long
satisfying finish. Offered at a terrific price.
Château Larrivaux 2005 Haut-Médoc ($15) 92
The 2005 Larrivaux displays a dark ruby youthful purple
color and aromas of plum and blackberry fruit with vanilla
13
notes. Dense and concentrated on the palate, it boasts ripe
black fruits with pencil shavings, spice and smoke. Highly
concentrated and complex, it will definitely benefit from
decanting, if consumed early.
Château Magnol 2005 Haut-Médoc ($20) 91
This delicious 50-50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon displays a dark ruby color with aromas of sweet
fruit, vanilla, dill and herbs. On the palate, it exhibits a very
soft lush attack with ripe plum and herbs and prominent
oak flavors on the finish. Website: www.barton-guestier.com
Château Malescasse 2005 Haut-Médoc ($45) 90
Dark ruby-garnet in color, the delicious 2005 Malescasse
exhibits a classic earthy character with aromas of red fruits
and coffee on the nose. On the palate it reveals an attack of
bright cherry fruit and notes of leather with medium tannins
on the finish. Website: www.château-malescasse.com
Château Maucamps 2005 Haut-Médoc ($23) 94
The gorgeous 2005 Maucamps is a blend of 60% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Sourced from
high density vineyards, it displays a dark ruby-garnet color
and aromas of spicy dark fruit with notes of coffee. Soft and
lush on the attack, it offers a rich concentration of dark cherry
and blackcurrant fruit beautifully integrated and balanced
with fully ripe tannins.
Château Maurac 2005 Haut-Médoc ($15) 89
The 2005 Château Maurac is a blend of 55% Merlot and
45% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is ruby garnet in color and
offers aromas of blackberry and sandalwood on a slightly
restrained nose. On the palate it offers a lush attack of ripe
black fruits, good concentration, and balance. Offered at a
terrific price.
Château Paloumey 2005 Haut Médoc ($21) 90
This delicious bottling displays a lovely dark ruby color with an
opaque core. A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot
and 5% Cabernet Franc, it offer aromas of plum, black cherry
and smoke. Aged in oak for 12 to 15 months (one third new),
it is medium to full-bodied, boasts flavors of concentrated
blackberry, blackcurrant, and mocha and has some chewy
tannins on the finish. Website: www.châteaupaloumey.com
Château Peyrabon 2005 Haut-Médoc ($18) 89
A blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot, and
3% Petit Verdot, the 2005 Peyrabon exhibits a dark ruby
core with aromas of red berries and plum fruit with notes
of cedar. Soft on the attack, it offers medium concentration
on the palate, a slight tart character, and firm tannins on the
finish.
Château Reysson 2005
Haut Médoc ($20) 92
The dark ruby Reysson is a blend of 62%
Merlot and 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and
displays a classic nose of lovely blackberry
fruit aromas and notes of cedar and smoke.
On the palate it exhibits medium concentration with lush
round and spicy black cherry fruit flavors, a long finish and
firm tannins.
Château Sênêjac
2005 Haut-Médoc ($40) 92
The dark purple ruby Senejac is a
blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon,
37% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc
and 4% Petit Verdot. It displays
a nose of black cherry and cedar
followed by big and concentrated
blackcurrant fruit flavors on the palate. Aged in barrel for 18
months, this rather young, full-bodied wine reveals chunky
and assertive tannins and would benefit from a minimum of
2 to 3 years of aging.
Château Ramage La Batisse 2005 Haut-Médoc ($14) 89
This traditional style Bordeaux is a 50-50 blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. It exhibits a dark ruby color with
a nose of red currants and roasted meat aromas. On the
palate it offers bright red fruit flavors, medium acidity and
ripe round tannins. A great value. Website: www.gironde-et-
gascogne.com
Château Verdignan
2005 Haut-Médoc ($30) 88
This highly extracted blend of 65%
Cabernet, 30% Merlot and 5%
Cabernet Franc displays a nose of spicy
blackberry fruit, smoke and oak. On the
palate it reveals a rich plush style with
a burst of chewy and slightly astringent
persistent tannins on the finish. Importer: Southern Wine
and Spirits
Listrac en Médoc
Château Bibian 2005 Listrac-Médoc ($NA) 92
The 2005 Château Bibian boasts a ruby opaque core and ripe
black cherry cola aromas with chocolate notes and a touch
of new oak. Soft on the attack it is dense and concentrated
with rich, ripe cherry fruit and touches of chocolate. With
ripe fruit tannins, it will benefit from 3 to 4 years aging.
Château Cap Léon Veyrin 2005 Listrac-Médoc ($NA) 91
While lightly muted on the nose, this dark ruby opaque wine
exhibits plenty of fruit on the palate with notes of chocolate
and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, it displays a soft mid-
palate with notes of violets and chewy tannins on the finish.
Would benefit from a couple of years of aging. Website
www.vignobles-meyre.com
Château Fonréaud 2005 Listrac-Médoc ($22) 92
The 2005 Château Fonréaud displays a lovely dark ruby color
with attractive aromas of ripe plums and smoky cedar. On
the palate it reveals ripe red and black fruit, hints of vanilla,
beautiful balance, a firm structure, big ripe tannins and grip
on the finish. A gorgeous wine offered at a good price.
14
Château Clarke 2005 Listrac-Médoc ($45) 92
Château Clarke (Baron Edmond de Rothschild) is a delicious
blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that is
aged in French oak barrels (mainly new) for about 16 months.
Dense and opaque ruby/purple in color, this beautifully
made wine displays aromas of blackcurrant and plum fruit
on the nose. On the palate, it offers a powerful attack of
full-bodied earthy blackcurrant fruit ripe tannins and a long
finish. This bottling would benefit from a year or two of
cellaring. A terrific wine.
Château Fourcas Dupré 2005 Listrac Médoc ($28) 87
This bottling displays a uniform dark ruby color with
aromas of black cherry, herbs, spice, cedar and a touch
of dill. It offers a soft attack with cherry cola flavors,
medium acidity and chewy tannins on the finish.
Château Fourcas Hosten 2005 Listrac Médoc ($20) 88
Medium dark ruby, touch of garnet. Earthy, herbal, plum
nose. Medium acidity. Soft attack, some tartness. Gritty
tannins. Typical of Listrac. Traditional style. Needs 2 to 3
years to resolve tannins. 12 months in oak
Château La Lauzette Declercq 2005 Listrac Médoc ($22) 85
The Lauzette Declercq offers pleasant black cherry and cigar
box aromas on the nose with a touch of earth. However, on
the palate it has light tart attack of plum fruit and a short
finish.
Château Mayne Lalande
2005 Listrac-Médoc ($35) 91
The 2005 Château Mayne Lalande is a star of
the vintage. A blend of Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon, with a touch of Cabernet Franc,
it displays an opaque purple ruby color
with a mélange of dark fruits and a hint of
spicy wood. The attack reveals sweet dense
dark cherry and plum flavors with hints of
chocolate. The tannins are ripe, but gripping
and the finish is long and fruity. This is a very
complete wine. Approachable now but would benefit from
2 to 3 years aging.
Château Saransot Dupre 2005 Listrac-Médoc ($20) 90
The 2005 Saransot Dupre displays a lovely dark ruby,
opaque core and aromas of red and blackberry fruit, cocoa
and sweet wood spice. On the palate it reveals juicy ripe
fruit with a soft supple attack, medium acidity and round
gripping tannins on the finish. A lovely Merlot-based wine
drinkable now but will improve with age.
Margaux
Château D’Angludet 2005
Margaux ($48) 92
This lovely D’Angludet is a
classically styled blend of 55%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 40%
Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. It
displays a dark ruby, opaque core with aromas of spicy fruit,
herbal notes and a touch of cedar and earth. On the palate
it offers concentrated blackcurrant and black cherry fruit,
beautiful balance and structure, mouth-coating tannins and
a long finish. Allow 4+ years for it to show its true potential.
Winery: www.château-angludet.fr
Château D’Arsac
2005 Margaux ($20) 91
This delicious 2005 D’Arsac displays
a lovely dark ruby color with a black
core. It offers complex aromas of
dark plum, earth and grilled meat.
On the palate, it offers an attack
of lush velvety blackcurrant fruit,
dense and concentrated with notes of bitter chocolate and
loam and big velvety tannins. A wine that will give pleasure
now and perhaps even into the next decade. Website: www.
château-arsac.com
Château Deyrem Valentin
2005 Margaux ($NA) 90
This is a youthful Cabernet Sauvignon-
Merlot-based dark ruby colored wine
that exhibits aromas of mint, fennel, and
tea notes on the nose. It reveals a soft
attack with medium acidity and chunky
gripping tannins. Its big tannic structure
should soften and the wine develop
beautifully with some bottle age.
Château La Tour de Bessan 2005 Margaux ($) 87
The La Tour de Bessan exhibits a dark ruby, opaque core
with a nose of framboise and a palate of black fruit flavors.
It reveals medium high acidity, a slight tartness and rather
coarse gripping tannins on the finish. A wine from Vignoble
Marie-Laure Lurton.
Château Labégorce 2005 Margaux ($30) 94
The 2005 Château Labégorce displays a lovely dark ruby
purple color and boasts aromas of plums, blackcurrants,
cassis and light cedar. On the palate it reveals lush mouth
feel, layered fruit flavors, beautifully integrated oak, chewy
tannins and a long finish. Among the top Cru Bourgeois
bottling of the vintage.
Château Monbrison
2005 Margaux ($40) 89
Château Monbrison is somewhat rustic
in style. Dark ruby in color with an,
opaque core, it exhibits dark cherry
fruit with a hint of mint and spicy wood
notes. Soft and lush on the attack, it
displays medium acidity with dark cherry
and black fruit and has slightly assertive tannins. 5,000
cases produced. Website: www.châteaumonbrison.com
15
Château Mongravey 2005 Margaux
($38) 92
The 2005 Mongravey is a Cabernet-
based blend that displays an
opaque-purple color with aromas of
blackcurrants, spice and cassis. On the
palate it boasts a wonderful lush mouth
feel, concentrated and opulent, with spicy black fruit and
cedar notes. It is polished and beautifully balanced with
round tannins and a long lasting finish. While drinkable
now, it will no doubt get even better over the coming years.
4,700 cases produced. Website: www.château-mongravey.fr
Importer: Aquitaine Wine Company
Château Paveil de Luze 2005 Margaux ($29) 89
This 28-hectare estate currently under
the management of Frederic de Luze
has made great strides in recent years in
modernizing its vineyard management
and winemaking. The 2005 Paviel de
Luze, a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 35% Merlot displays a dark ruby
color with an opaque core and aromas of
blackcurrant and black cherry fruit. On the palate, it offers
a soft attack of flavorful black fruits, rounded tannins, and a
lovely firm finish.
Château Siran 2005 Margaux ($) 88
Despite its designation as a Cru
Bourgeois Exceptionnel in the 2003
Classification, Château Siran has turned
out a competent but uninspired effort, in
light of the vintage. Its 2005 offers aromas
of framboise and is pleasant tasting, but
it also is rather light, low in acidity, and
fairly simple. It is good for short term consumption but not a
wine of elegance or power.
Moulis en Médoc
Château Anthonic 2005 Moulis
en Médoc ($35) 91
The 2005 Château Anthonic is
an elegant blend of 59% Merlot,
40% Cabernet Sauvignon and a
small amount of Petit Verdot. It
is dark ruby with an opaque core
of rich blackberry fruit that has a smoky edge. This lovely
wine has a complex nose and a sweet, soft attack of rich
concentrated black fruit, charred meat and leather notes. A
terrific performer.
Château Biston-Brillette 2005
Moulis en Médoc ($40) 92
This modern blend of 50%
Cabernet and 50% Merlot
displays a lovely dark garnet,
opaque core. On the nose it
reveals dark plum fruit with a touch of cedar, and perhaps
a licorice note. On the attack it is soft, rich and ripe with a
polished, oaky style. This wine would benefit from a year or
two in bottle but would be well worth the wait.
Château Chasse-Spleen 2005 Moulis
en Médoc ($35) 91
The 2005 Château Chasse-Spleen
is traditional in style and not readily
accessible. It displays a medium ruby
color with aromas of black currants,
black cherry and herbal notes. It offers a
soft attack, with a palate showing good
structure and balance, but is still young
and tight with fruit in the background. It needs time, but the
potential is there. The 2001 Chasse-Spleen, which we recently
tasted, exhibited ripe aromas of blackberry with notes of earth,
mushrooms, cigar box and leather and had gripping tannins.
Château Duplessis 2005 Moulis en Médoc ($20) 89
The dark opaque colored Merlot-based Duplessis exhibits
ripe dark fruit flavors with herbal notes and a touch of violet
on the nose. On the palate it has a soft and generous attack
of ripe black fruit, lovely texture and elegant mouth feel. Its
chewy tannins that would benefit from 1 to 3 years of aging
in bottle. A wine from Vignoble Marie-Laure Lurton.
Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux
2005 Moulis en Médoc ($30) 89
Traditional in style, the 2005 Château
Dutruch Grand Poujeaux displays a medium
dark garnet-ruby color with blackcurrant,
oak and leather notes on the nose. A
blend of 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, 57%
Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, it offers a soft attack, medium
body, medium to low acidity and soft round tannins on the
finish.
Château Gressier
Grand Poujeaux
2005 Moulis en Médoc ($15) 90
Dark garnet, opaque core.
Bright blackberry with violet
note on nose. A touch of spice.
Soft attack. Medium acidity. Riper, slightly more modern
style. Very good wine making. Ripe, lush mouth feel.
Velvety tannins. A 50-50 Cabernet and Merlot blend
that spent 18 months in barrel, around 20 percent new.
Château Poujeaux
2005 Moulis en Médoc ($30) 91
Poujeaux, a neighboring estate of Chateau
Chasse-Spleen, is among the better Cru
Bourgeois performers of the vintage. This
bottling exhibits a dark purple, opaque
color with aromas of black cherries, black
fruit, violets and caramel notes with some
earthiness. It boasts a soft lush attack with a medium dense
chewy texture and a long finish. It would benefit from 2 to 3
years of aging. Website: www.château-poujeaux.com
16
Pauillac
Château Fonbadet 2005 Pauillac ($38) 86
Dark ruby in color, the Château Fonbadet displays aromas
of cedar spicy framboise. If offers a full and round attack
of raspberry and dark fruit with notes of pencil shavings. It
is medium low in acidity, somewhat lean and light, with a
rather short finish.
Château Haut-Bages
Monpelou 2005 Pauillac ($35) 89
A lovely blend of 69% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and 5%
Cabernet Franc, the Haut-Bages
Monpelou reveals a dark ruby color
with a touch of garnet. The nose
boasts aromas of sweet, smoky, white
ash and charred oak with a touch of
spiciness. The palate is of red fruit and
oak with medium acidity and light concentration. The finish
exhibits gripping but ripe tannins. 5000 cases produced.
Château La Fleur Peyrabon 2005 Pauillac ($26) 88
This blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon and 47% Merlot
displays a dark ruby garnet color with aromas of plum, dark
cherry, a touch of sandalwood and spice. It boasts a soft
and supple medium weight. Low-medium acidity. Round
tannins. Herb and tea notes. Aged 14 months. www.château-
peyrabon.com
Château Pibran
2005 Pauillac ($40) 90
The 2005 Pibran is a blend of
65% Cabernet Sauvignon and
35% Merlot. It displays a lovely
purple opaque color and aromas of sweet plum and vanilla
with a touch of spice on the nose. Aged for one year in
new French oak, it has medium acidity, boasts a ripe round
attack and has excellent concentration, balance and ripe
chewy tannins. This well-made wine is drinkable now, but
will benefit from 2 to 3 years in bottle. Produced by the
winemaking team of Château Pichon-Longueville.
Saint Estèphe
Château Andron Blanquet 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($NA) 87
The 2005 Château Andron Blanquet displays a dark ruby
color with plum fruit that has a touch of greenness. On the
palate it is soft and sweet with lots of blackberry fruit and
pretty ripe tannins. While somewhat ready to drink now, this
bottling should improve in another year or two.
Château Beau-Site
2005 Saint-Estèphe ($27) 91
Château Beau-Site is a complex wine,
rustic and traditional in character with a
dark ruby-garnet color and aromas of
smoky, roasted meat and violet. Lush and
concentrated, it displays a soft, round texture with lots of
dark smoky plum fruit, leather and earth flavors. It has low-
medium acidity, ripe tannins, and a long extended finish.
Terrific wine.
Château Beau-Site Haut Vignoble
2005 Saint-Estèphe ($25) 91
This superb wine displays a dark ruby garnet color with
ripe and juicy blackcurrant fruit with notes of violets, smoky
cedar and tobacco. Earthy in character, this beauty has
chewy tannins with a long finish and will benefit from 1 to 2
years of cellaring.
Château Bel-Air 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($22) 85
Château Bel-Air has an opaque color and a muted nose of
slightly underripe blackberry and pomegranate flavors with
soft mouth feel but chunky astringent tannins.
Château Coutelin-Merville 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($23) 91
Coutelin-Merville produces traditional and somewhat
rustic style wines. The 2005 is a blend of 55% Merlot, 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon 23% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit
Verdot. Dark ruby and opaque in color, it offers aromas of
plum, cassis and violet notes. The palate offers a soft attack
of black fruits with a touch of cola, black cherry and vanilla
and chewy gripping tannins. This wine will benefit from
several years of cellaring before drinking.
Château de Pez
2005 Saint-Estèphe ($36) 90
This Château de Pez is a blend of 56%
Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and
5% Petit Verdot. It exhibits aromas
of cedar, dried blackcurrants and
blackberry on the nose. On the palate,
it reveals a soft lush attack of medium-
bodied blackberry fruit, ripe tannins and a short finish.
Château Domeyne 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($25) 87
The 2005 Domeyne exhibits a dark ruby garnet color and
floral spicy aromas. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and
40% Merlot, and aged for 18 months in forty percent new
oak, the palate shows soft mouth feel with big extracted
black fruit flavors, a touch of bitter chocolate and gripping
tannins that taste slightly bitter and green
Chateau Haut-Marbuzet 2005
Saint-Estephe ($42) 94
A consistently high performer over the years, Chateau
Haut-Marbuzet has produced one of the top modern crus
bourgeois of the 2005 vintage. A blend of 50% Merlot, 40%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc, it displays a
lovely dark ruby color and ripe black cherry and plum aromas
and oak spice on the nose. On the attack it reveals soft
and generous sweet ripe dark red fruit flavors with notes of
leather and cedar. It is elegant and seamless with beautiful
balance and a long lasting finish. While approachable now
it will be even better within 3 to 5 years.
17
Château La Haye
2005 Saint-Estèphe ($40) 91
This lovely 2005 La Haye exhibits
a dark purple ruby color and offers
black raspberry and spicy oak on the
nose. On the palate it boasts a soft,
sweet and lush attack with delicious
black fruit flavors. It is medium in
acidity and has ripe firm tannins. A
lovely wine combining fruit, structure
and balance that will be even better with 2 to 3 years aging.
Château Le Boscq 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($30) 89
The dark ruby garnet Merlot-based Le
Boscq reveals a nose of red fruit, cedar,
aged meat and a touch of dill. Modern
in style, , it boasts a soft attack of
concentrated red plum fruit and oak with
supple mouth feel, ripe soft tannins and
vanillin. Le Boscq is well situated between
Phélan Ségur and Soicando-Mallet.
Château Le Crock 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($40) 91
A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon,
20% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc, this
lovely Le Crock exhibits lovely black cherry
fruit with a touch of spicy oak on the nose
followed by more black cherry fruit and
luscious chocolate notes on the palate.
Medium in acidity with firm ripe tannins,
this bottling will provide lots of drinking
pleasure in the decade ahead.
Château Meyney 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($25) 87
This dark ruby colored wine, a blend of
70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot
and small amounts of Cabernet Franc and
Petite Verdot has a nose of black currants,
plum, cedar and a touch of violet. Usually
quite robust, this Meyney is light and
fruit-forward in style, offering a sweet soft
attack of lush fruit with prominent notes
of vanillin having spent 16 to 18 months in 30% new oak
barrels. Website: www.cagrandscrus.com
Château Les Ormes de Pez 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($40) 86
This Les Ormes de Pez is less successful than previous
vintages. Medium to dark ruby garnet, it reveals a touch of
rubber boot aromas on the nose and a slightly dry palate.
Light and tart with some green herbal notes, it also exhibits
some astringency on the finish.
Château Phélan-Ségur
2005 Saint-Estèphe ($35) 90
Owner Thierry Gardiner has produced a
lovely 2005 Phelan-Segur. It is dark ruby
with an opaque core and offers aromas of
ripe red plum and blueberry fruit toasted
oak, caramel and coffee notes. On the palate, it reveals a
soft, elegant mouth feel, with cassis and a touch of violet, References and
excellent balance and firm gripping tannins. Very pleasing
flavor profile. Website: www.phelansegur.com
Further Reading
Château Picard 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($25) 88
This blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot • L’Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc,
displays a dark ruby purple color and aromas of cassis, olive, http://www.crus-bourgeois.com/
and lead pencil. On the palate it exhibits a velvety texture
of sweet high-toned cassis and plum fruit, a medium body, • Stephen Brook, Bordeaux Médoc &
good balance and ripe tannins. This wine is drinkable now Graves, Mitchell Beazley, 2006
and should improve with further bottle aging.
• Clive Coates MW The Wines of
Château Tour de Pez 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($NA) 90 Bordeaux, University of California
The 2005 Château Tour de Pez is a tasty
Press 2004
Merlot-based blend. Dark ruby in color it
offers aromas of sweet cassis, framboise,
pencil shavings and notes of mushrooms. It • Ëdouard Feret, Bordeaux and its
boasts a sweet soft attack of black fruit with Wines 13th edition 1986
a touch of violets and has soft ripe tannins
on the finish. This bottling will benefit • Andrew Jefford, The New France,
from another 3 to 5 years of bottle aging. Mitchell Beazley, 2002
Château Tour Des Termes 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($NA) 90 • Alexandre Le Boulc’h and Frank Salein,
This dark ruby-colored blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Flavours of Bordeaux
Cabernet Sauvignon boasts aromas of ripe plum, cassis and
earthy notes. Traditional in style, it spends 15 months in new
• Robert M. Parker, Jr. Bordeaux, Simon
oak and displays highly extracted, dense and concentrated
black fruit flavors on the palate with chewy tannins on the
and Schuster, 1991
finish. Website: www.châteautourdestermes.com
Château Tour Saint-Fort 2005 Saint-Estèphe ($21) 85
This bottling from the 10-hectare estate of Château Tour
Saint-Fort exhibits dominant cigar box and forest floor
aromas with a touch of leather on the nose. The attack is soft
and shows some red berry fruits, but the palate is astringent
with hard Saint- Estèphe-like tannins.

Saint-Julien

Château du Glana 2005 Saint-Julien ($30) 88

Earthy and gamey in character, this Cabernet Sauvignon-
based dark ruby-colored du Glana offers aromas of
blackcurrants and cassis followed by a soft attack of very ripe
black fruit and a velvety texture. Low in acidity; it displays
lovely balance and nicely rounded tannins. Fast maturing
and ready to drink now.

Château Lalande 2005 Saint-Julien ($25) 91

This lovely Cru Bourgeois from Château Lalande displays a
dark ruby color and ripe aromas of cassis and vanilla. On the
palate it reveals an earthy herbal and mineral character with
excellent structure and balance and firm ripe tannins. A very
fine and complex wine of higher quality than in previous
vintages.

18
19
 WINE REPORTS
Issue 1 California Petite Sirah (September 2005)

Issue 2 Red Table Wines of Portugal (January 2006)

Issue 3 Grenache Wines of Australia, California, France and Spain

(May 2006)

Issue 4 Syrah: California, Washington Sate and Oregon Wines

(September 2006)

Issue 5 Malbec: Argentina’s Magnificent Malbec (December 2006)

Issue 6 The Wines of Southern Italy: From Quantity to Quality (March 2007)

Special
Report Red Wines of Portugal: The Douro Boys and Barca Velha (June 2007)

Issue 7 New Zealand’s Exciting Pinot Noirs (July 2007)

Issue 8 The Wines of Ribera del Duero (September 2007)

Issue 9 Champagne (December 2007)

Issue 10 Unoaked Chardonnay: It More Than Wood (February 2008)

Issue 11 2005 Bordeaux Crus Bourgeois (April 2008)

These reports are available online at www.i-winereview.com