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Wifi Dot Matrix Sign 11 Steps (With Pictures)
Wifi Dot Matrix Sign 11 Steps (With Pictures)
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| technology (/technology/)
Second Prize in the
IoT Builders Contest (/contest/iotbuilders/)
View Contest
For the why. I wanted one, it was too expensive to buy and I
knew I could build one better than most non wifi signs.
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Question (/technology/)
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Step 1: Planning
Before diving into material gathering it is a good idea to do
some planning and calculations. This sign can be made as big
as you want and the resolution is also entirely up to how you
build and what material you use.
The LEDs
The leds that are used are ADDRESSABLE 5050 RGB LEDs. I
wrote that in caps since there are a lot of different led strips
out there on the market and they work differently so for this
project only the addressable or programmable leds will work.
These leds are usually more expensive than the ordinary RGB
5050 leds but look the same. The difference is that with the
addressable leds you can program individual colors on
individual leds as contrary to the ordinary RGB strip where
you're only able to light up the whole strip and where all leds
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are in the same color. Other differences are that the
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addressable leds are all connected in parallel and because of
that they require 5V instead of the usual 12V for a strip and
also they don’t have RGB input but rather data in/out (DI/O)
and sometimes a clock (clk) signal and because of that they
require a microcontroller to be utilized.
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Handling 14+A is not fun at all and would require way too big
cables, not to mention heat problems. So to solve this power
issue I realized that I’d have to portion down the power to the
leds and go with many smaller drivers rather than one beefy
sucker.
This way I can feed the sign a higher voltage with less current
which is easier to do than delivering 5V and 14,4A current.
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Step 3: Bill
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Materials(/technology/)
and Resources
/5h6rZf)
2pcs of Masonite for back cover and led back plate (Back
1pc of acrylic clear glass (plexi) for front plate (same size
as frame)
screws
Solder iron
Glue gun
Multimeter
Adafruit_GFX.h
Adafruit_NeoMatrix.h
Adafruit_NeoPixel.h
ESP8266WiFi.h
espneotext.h
Files
original version
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xzpq95mzcth4nko/AACF_bA...
(https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xzpq95mzcth4nko
/AACF_bA8hryxXedwNq1bDhWba?dl=0)
https://github.com/dkomando/esp_neomatrix_web_text
(https://github.com/dkomando/esp_neomatrix_web_text)
Adafruit libraries
https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoPixel
(https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoPixel)
https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-GFX-Library
(https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-GFX-Library)
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https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_NeoMatrix
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Resources
https://nurdspace.nl/ESP8266 (https://nurdspace.nl
/ESP8266)
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13678
(https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13678)
http://www.esp8266.com/ (http://www.esp8266.com/)
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When it comes to the layout of the led strips there are some
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different ways these can be done. Since data is shifted into
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the leds they all need to be connected in series. There is an
illustration showing the two main ways of connecting the
ledsstrips. I chose the second way (all strips facing the same
way) since I wanted my matrix to resemble Adafruits 8x8
matrix and thus be able to use their library. I later realized
that the library was compatible with both ways of connections
so you can basically connect anyway you want as long as you
stick with it through the whole matrix.
At first I ddin’t realize there was this extensive library for led
matrices for Arduino so I actually planned on making my own
library. However after some research I realized that there
were quite a few options available out there and so the
connection of the strips are not really that important as long
as you stay consistent.
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During the build I used an Arduino nano and adafruits
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neopixel strandtest to test the leds and make sure they all
worked properly.
Once you’ve got the led panel and it’s painted to the color you
wish, it its time to start sticking the led strips to it and
prepare for a lot of soldering. During soldering be gentle while
bending the wires from the led strips under the panel. One
thing I realized was that the copper padding you solder on are
really fragile and rips off for basically no reason at all. If that
happens you won't be able to retach the wire so if this
happens on the DI or DO connection you might render that
strip useless for the matrix. However if it happens on a power
or ground wire you can do some cross connections between
led strips to fix it. The best way to avoid these kind of accident
is to use thin and flexible wires and not to put too much
tension on the pad.
Step 7: Sound
Another drawback with the 01 is that you only have two pins
to work with and for this project that was enough but It might
be quite restricting if you plan to add more features to your
sign.
I'm not gonna go into detail on how these ESPs work but one
thing to know if you’re not familiar with the ESP is that to
flash it you need to put the GPIO0 pin to ground at boot. This
became an issue later when I thought I was done and tried to
start my sign. The reason for it didnt boot proparly was that I
hadDownload
connected the led data to the GPIO0 pin which apparently
pulled it down to low thus throwing the ESP into flash mode at
| technology (/technology/)
every bootup. So to solve this I added a switch in between
that disconnects the leds. So to start my sign I first have to
disconnect the led data connection by pressing the
pushbutton, then power on the sign through the main power
switch and lastly reconnect the led data to GPIO0.
If you decide not to add sound to your sign or you have more
pins available on your ESP then it is adviced to avoid using
GPIO0 and instead use other pins to avoid having to do this
ritual at every startup.
Another thing that I realized was that I had to replace the pins
that were on the ESP to be able to fit it under the led panel.
So I de-soldered all the pins and attached wires directly to the
ESP and then extended them to pins.
Step 9: Software
My plan was to write my own library for this project. But after
a bit of research I realized that there already were a few
matrix libraries out there for Arduino ready to be used so... I
got lazy.
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For the power switch, DC jack and disconnect switch I used a
| technology (/technology/)
drill to drill large enough holes on the side to be able to fit the
components.
I've had mine running for a couple of days and people still
love it and cant stop spamming it when they visit. I will
however improve mine quite a lot and add extra features in
the coming future.
https://github.com/dkomando/esp_neomatrix_web_text
(https://github.com/dkomando/esp_neomatrix_web_text)
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Mixed Output (author) 1 year ago
8 (/member/Mixed+Output/)
I want to update on some of the messages I've gotten on
the display. Since I posted the link online I've had tons of
messages displayed and since they just randomly show up
with only 2sec warning beeps I kind of realized how hard it
is to be able to record them. I still run to the living room
every time I hear the beeps though (and not just me but
my flat mates too :D). But I've managed to write some of
the messages down and I'd like to share them here in case
someone from instructables here recognize them. But as I
said this are just a fraction of all the messages recieved.
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Great Instructable, Also the link does not work for me.
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Message Sent: Hello from AF7V. Very nice Instructable.
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