World Traveller - January 2020

INSPIRED BY
ISSUE 105 | JANUARY 2020 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY
JAPAN
MARRAKECH
STAYCATIONS
TRAVEL OFFERS
SPARRING
PARTNERS
Recharge at these
dreamy Indian
Ocean spas
The new
New York
How to put a fresh
spin on a golden oldie
Produced in Dubai Production City
Soft-sand beaches, zingy African flavours, and devoid of tourists

– introducing the delicious little islands of São Tomé and Príncipe
JAresorts.com /Manafaru @JAManafaru_Maldives
JA Manafaru,
JA Manafaru,
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an award-winning
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email reservations.manafaru@jaresorts.com
Welcome note
FIVE THINGS
WE LEARNED
If, like us, staring at the blank pages of a brand new travel THIS ISSUE:
journal fills you with wanderlust, and you're armed with a
refreshed batch of annual leave, it's high time to start booking 1
Snuggling under a
those trips you promised you'd take in 2020. weighted blanket could
If you're still feeling the effects of the silly help ease your nerves
season, a wellbeing boosting break could be when flying, p22
just what the doctor ordered. This month,
2
we've rounded up the 20 best pampering spa
experiences to indulge in across the Indian Ocean
(page 26). From doing your daily sun salutations The new Statue of
Managing Director
on a white-sand beach in the Seychelles to getting Liberty Museum is the
Victoria Thatcher most significant addition
a vitamin infusion in the Maldives or having a
hydrating honey wrap in Mauritius, these luxury
to Liberty Island since
Chief Creative Officer the statue was launched
spas will help you emerge a smoother, shinier,
John Thatcher in 1886, p38
happier version of your former self.
Also inside this issue, we take you to the streets
General Manager
David Wade
of New York, where there's always something 3
new to discover (page 38); shine a light on the In São Tomé, they like
wonderfully off-radar little islands of São Tomé to 'Léve-léve' ('take it
Managing Editor and Príncipe (page 44); and show you why easy'), p44
Faye Bartle swapping cherry blossom for snow-capped
faye@hotmedia.me mountains in Japan may be the best decision you
make this year (page 50).
4
You can support
Content Writer
disadvantaged women
Habiba Azab Happy travels, by sampling their ever-
habiba@hotmedia.me changing menu of local
Faye Bartle dishes at Amal Women's
Editorial Assistant Moroccan restaurant in
Ronak Sagar
Win! Marrakech, p56
A two-night stay
Art Director
Kerri Bennett at Jumeirah Dar Al 5
December through
Masyaf in Dubai, March is the quietest
Senior Designer p71 and cheapest time to
Hiral Kapadia visit Japan, p50
Senior Advertising Manager

Mia Cachero
mia@hotmedia.me
Production Manager
Muthu Kumar
INSPIRED BY
COVER IMAGE
Photography credits: Getty Images
Getty Images and Phocal Media
Reproduction in whole or in part

Find us at…
without written permission from
HOT Media is strictly prohibited. ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com
HOT Media does not accept
liability for omissions or errors in FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME
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worldtravellermagazine.com 5
Contents
January 2020
Yoga on a sandbank at Soneva Jani. Photo by Stevie Mann
15
GLOBETROTTER
regulars
10
TRENDING
15
GLOBETROTTER
22
THE KNOWLEDGE
70
DIGITAL DOWNLOAD
72
SUITE DREAMS
DESTINATIONS Why ultra all-inclusive Does the thought of Head online for Soak up the views of
This month's go-to is the way to go in 2020, flying give you sweaty exclusive travel content Gaudi's Sagrada Familia
places include sunny wellbeing boosting palms? We share some and, better yet, the from the free-standing
Perth, adventurous Koh breaks to help you start tried and tested tips chance to win a luxury bathtub in this grand
Samui and the winter the year right, and fab for getting you on that stay at Jumeirah Dar Al Terrace Suite at The
wonderland of Yerevan. new hotels on our radar. aeroplane. Masyaf in Dubai. One Barcelona.
CONTENTS
features
26
THE BEST INDIAN
38
GLAMOUR & GRIT
44
INTO THE UNKNOWN
50
CHILL OUT
OCEAN SPAS Faye Bartle discovers Soft-sand beaches and Onsen baths, piping hot
We've rounded up 20 how to put a fresh spin zingy African flavours; noodle bowls, and ways
fabulous places to be on a timeless classic by Stanley Stewart to get cosy, Alicia Miller
pampered in Seychelles, mixing the old with the introduces the islands of explores the snowy
Maldives and Mauritius. new in New York. São Tomé and Príncipe. spectacle of Japan.
La Mamounia, Marrakech
56
LONG WEEKEND
weekends
56
A LONG WEEKEND
60
STAYCATIONS
66
TRAVEL OFFERS
IN MARRAKECH Feel in need of a break? It's time we sent you
Let the city's heady We have a few more packing. Choose your
blend of culture and reasons to book a next adventure from
beauty lure you in. weekend escape. our exclusive offers.
8 worldtravellermagazine.com
Wellness Haven at Saray Spa.
Renew for the journey ahead.
A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa,
where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the
well-being of each guest. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private Hammam rooms,
one Dead Sea treatment room boasting the UAE’s only Dead Sea Floatation Pool found within, and two
Private Luxury Spa Suites. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian Body Rituals
or Hammam Rituals, or benefit from the resultsoriented facials. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious
gifts and spa products for every occasion.
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE
T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
*Terms and conditions: Offer is subject to availability and advance reservations are required. This is a limited time offer.
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter,
reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month
Koh Samui
It’s dry season in Thailand – an excellent time to explore its beautiful islands. An adventure seeker's paradise, Koh
Samui is home to the Ang Thong Marine Park – an archipelago of more than 40 islands where you can swim, snorkel,
hike and kayak to your heart's content. Explore the colourful neighbourhoods, such as Chaweng for its buzzing main
street, beach dining and nightlife, as well as the rustic Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village and its popular night market.
Highlights 1 Hire a motorbike and set off on a thrill-a-minute tour – you can circumnavigate the island in just a couple of hours.
2 Stroll through the Secret Buddha Garden private sculpture park atop Pom Mountain and discover its unique collection
of hand-carved statues nestled in the lush jungle. 3 Get fit quick by booking yourself in for some private Muay Thai training
sessions – Punch It Gym takes beginners through to seasoned fighters under its wing.
Perth
The sunniest (and perhaps the coolest) city in Australia, Perth calls with its glittering downtown skyline, vibrant
Elizabeth Quay, and contemporary Australian dining at the multilevel Print Hall. Enjoy endless sunshine on its
pristine beaches lapped by the Indian Ocean, from the renowned Cottesloe Beach to the 63 white-sand coves on
Rottnest Island, a nature reserve home to the cute and friendly quokka, and which will soon boast a new marina.
Highlights 1 For thrills and spills, head to Perth's Outback Splash, which has unveiled a new six-storey slide tower featuring Western
Australia's fastest-ever body slide, among other attractions. 2 Animal lovers can head to Yanchep National Park to stroll along the
koala boardwalk for a peek at these cuddly creatures in their natural environment. 3 Embark on a tour of Perth's hip urban art,
including the stunning new mega-mural on Hay Street by Melbournian street artist Matt Adnate.
Cape Canaveral
The hub of the US space programme, Cape Canaveral calls would-be astronauts to the Kennedy Space Center
Visitor Complex, where you can learn about space travel, train like an astronaut, or strap yourself in for lift-off in
its shuttle launch experience. It makes a great day trip from Orlando (the theme park capital of the world) as part of
an adventurous itinerary. Or, you can stay at the Cape and enjoy its hotels, restaurants and quiet beaches.
Highlights 1 Visit Canaveral National Seashore, part of America’s national park system, which boasts a vast stretch of beautifully
wild white-sand beach, home to various plant and bird species. 2 Stare into a beautiful sunset at Center Street Park and, with any luck,
you'll enjoy a rare glimpse of manatees in the river. 3 Learn about the city’s past, its present and the origins of its celebrated port at
Exploration Tower, a seven-storey building of interactive exhibits with wonderful views of Port Canaveral.
Yerevan
A winter wonderland that's close to home, Yerevan is usually covered in fluffy white snow at this time of year,
and the waters of Lake Sevan freeze over. The city streets light up for the festive period and local businesses
are keen to welcome visitors in from the cold to enjoy delicious local Armenian cuisine, including lots of lavash
Compiled by: Soumaya El Filali
bread. Take a day trip to the surrounding mountains for some of the most affordable skiing on the planet.
Highlights 1 Spend some time in the rosy-hued Republic Square, made partly from Armenia’s famous pink tufa stone. Its central building
houses the History Museum of Armenia, as well as the National Art Gallery of Armenia. 2 Climb the 572 steps of the Cascade stairway for
stunning views of the city. While you're there, check out contemporary art giant, the Cafesjian Center for the Arts. 3 Stock up on keepsakes
at Vernissage open-air flea market, where artisan finds include beautiful ceramics, dazzling jewellery and traditional ornaments.
XXXXXXXXXXXXX
Globetrotter
JANUARY
Be informed, be inspired, be there
ROCK ON
With its jaw-droppingly beautiful rugged landscape,
star quality and designer shopping, the glamour and
glitz of Capri is a siren call. Join the shiny happy people
heading to this idyllic Italian island hotspot in the spring
when Jumeirah is orchestrating a grand re-opening of
the legendary Capri Palace for a brand new season of la
dolce vita. Born in the 1960s, it is designed in the style of
an 18th century Neapolitan palazzo, with a two-Michelin-
star L’Olivo restaurant, beach club and cutting edge
medical spa enticing you to holiday like the A-list.
GLOBETROTTER
JA The Resort, Dubai Taylor River Lodge , Colorado
GO ALL IN Kinara by Vikas Khanna

at JA The Resort, Dubai
Why go all-inclusive when you can go

ultra-all inclusive? We find out what
the fuss is all about...
Taking the 'everything's included' concept to the

next level, offering a host of supersized added
extras, ultra-inclusive holidays are the ultimate
indulgence. Here's a few of our favourites: Taylor
River Lodge, Colorado will put you up in a rustic
cabin with an expert guide on hand to help
One &Only Gorilla's Nest
you make the most of your trip by taking part

in awesome outdoor activities, from fly fishing
in the trout pond to white-water rafting; the
remote Rio Palena Lodge, Chile, situated next
to its namesake river, invites adventure seekers
to discover the best of Patagonia with thrilling
pursuits on tap, such as hiking on a dormant
volcano and a day's heli-fishing; on our doorstep,
JA The Resort in Dubai is luring dedicated
foodies for a mouthwatering staycation with a
free rein at a whopping 25 dining spots there.
Rio Palena Lodge, Chile
ON OUR RADAR
The first aquarium dining Polo fans can head to Saudi
experience in Bali, Koral Arabia, which is hosting its
Restaurant, has opened first ever polo tournament
at The Apurva Kempinski from 16-18 January at AlUla
Bali, serving up a taste of heritage site as part of the
the Indonesian coast. Winter at Tantora festival.
Visiting St. Petersburg The perfect spot for a

just got a little easier for girls-only holiday, the new
nationals of 53 foreign Sofie’s floor at Sofitel
states, including those Dubai Downtown Hotel is
from Saudi Arabia, thanks dedicated exclusively to
to the new eVisa service. female guests.
worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI
THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...
Stay a step ahead

Make an energetic start to the new year by checking out these active
attractions that'll help you discover the capital from a fresh perspective
1 2 3
Great for all the family, the newly Enjoy one of the UAE’s most Nature lovers can take a hike
opened CLYMB Abu Dhabi on beautiful architectural spectacles along the new Mangrove
Yas Island calls all those with from the still waters of the Boardwalk opening this month.
a head for heights. It's home to the Arabian Gulf by taking part in a Built on Jubail Island, and stretching
world's largest indoor skydiving flight kayaking tour of Louvre Abu Dhabi. between Yas and Saadiyat islands, it
chamber and tallest indoor climbing Guides will take you on a serene offers a coveted chance to get a feel
wall, The Summyt, which reaches 43 journey around the landmark as for 'the lungs of the city', providing a
metres in height. Test your skills with they share the story of the French glimpse of the area's rich biodiversity,
the help of the expert instructors who museum’s launch in the UAE. Tours including its flora and fauna and
are on hand to ensure everyone from last one hour and are available for exotic bird life (think pink flamingoes
first-time flyers (aged three and up) people of all skill levels. For an even and herons). You can also set off in a
to seasoned climbers have a thrilling more magical experience, book in for kayak, take the kids to the play area,
time. The aesthetically stunning one of the full moon tours. Children or simply soak up the scenery from
geometrically designed building is an age six to 12 must be accompanied by the viewing terraces.
attraction in itself. a parent or guardian. Find out more at visitabudhabi.ae
Photo: CLYMB Abu Dhabi
GLOBETROTTER
NEW
FOR YOU
Fresh places to stay MALDIVES
EMERALD MALDIVES RESORT & SPA
With its coveted wraparound reef
placing you mere footsteps away from
exotic fish, turtles and manta rays, this
deluxe all-inclusive resort (40-minutes
by seaplane from Malé) will blow the
winter cobwebs away with its mix of
sun, sea, sand and delicious food.
TUNISIA
ANANTARA TOZEUR RESORT
Surrounded by the majestic desert,
with views of the Chott El Djerid salt
flats, this luxury resort on the edge of
Tozeur beckons. We rate the Arabian
Cultural Village, with its souk and
restaurant serving delicacies such as
camel steaks cooked on an open fire.
DUBAI
ANDAZ DUBAI THE PALM
Promising you'll arrive a visitor and
depart a local, this Palm Jumeirah
hotel (which opened on 15 December)
has gone all out to weave local culture
into its DNA. Lap up its adults-only
Cabana pool area, boutique spa, yoga
terrace and five delicious dining spots.
Photography: Katie Wilson
GLOBETROTTER
ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort and Spa
SELF-CARE HOTSPOTS
WELLBEING BOOSTING BREAKS Feeling under pressure? The 7-day
JET OFF ON A HEALTH TRIP Stress Management Programme

at Spain's SHA Wellness Clinic will
TAKE A THERAPEUTIC DUNK... voyage on Lan Ha Bay in Vietnam. restore vitality, health and balance.
IN THE HOT SPRINGS OF JAPAN Board the 10-suite vessel, Ylang, and
Famous for its hot springs, Oita be pampered in the floating spa in-
Prefecture in Japan is the place between meditation sessions, early
to go for a beautifying dunk. ANA morning tai chi sessions on the deck
InterContinental Beppu Resort and and savouring light Vietnamese dishes.
*Source: The The Global Wellness Institute (GWI) Global Wellness Economy Monitor
Spa is designed to coax guests into a
state of calm, with its own stylish onsen HAVE A HOLISTIC DETOX...
inviting you to soak in the soothing IN KOH SAMUI Need to break out of a rut? Holistic
myoban waters while overlooking Need a clean sweep? Ease yourself healer Leela Isani, will take you on a
Beppu Bay. Turn to page 50 to read our into it on the 12-Day Holistic Detox journey of self-healing at Atmantan
feature on winter in Japan. Package at Absolute Sanctuary, Wellness Resort in India this month.
Koh Samui, which incorporates spa
PRACTICE MINDFULNESS... ON A treatments and alternative therapies,
WELLNESS CRUISE IN VIETNAM such as magnesium foot baths and
Heritage Line has launched a three- Thai stretch massages, alongside two
day wellness and mindfulness focused healthy meals a day.
It seems you can put a price on good Soneva Jani in Maldives currently
health. International wellness tourists has a fab line-up of visiting wellness
spend around US$1,528* per trip practitioners specialising in

ayurveda to help you feel your best.
worldtravellermagazine.com
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by heading online to read more inspirational and
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KNOW-HOW
The Knowledge
HOW TO...
Conquer your fear of flying
From the art of deep breathing to snuggling under a weighted blanket
– we share some practical and easy tips for getting you on that aeroplane
Clammy palms, palpitations, butterflies

in the tummy… if the very thought of
flying breaks you out in a cold sweat,
you’re not alone. One in four UAE
residents have a fear of flying, according
to a study by British Airways, with
concerns around safety and being
afraid of the unknown the biggest
triggers. While severe aviophobia
can be a challenge to overcome, if
you have a moderate case of the
jitters there are lots of useful tips
and tricks to try so you don’t have to
miss out on those exotic holidays.
TALK TO AN EXPERT
A good first step is to reach out to a
professional who can draw upon some
tried and tested therapies to help get
you airborne. “For a fear of flying, technical side of aviation, including all breath for a count of seven seconds
we work on visualisation, reducing the unusual noises and sensations you and then exhale to a count of eight.
anxiety, systematic desensitisation, and experience in an aircraft. Plus, they'll
exposure therapy,” says Dr Thoraiya share some relaxation techniques that'll GET PLUGGED IN
Kanafani of the Human Relations help you take control of your anxiety. While you’re packing, en-route to the
Institute and Clinics in Dubai. “The (See flyingwithconfidence.com). airport, in the sky; tune into the power
gist of the treatments are based on of music to keep you calm. Researchers
the cognitive behavioural therapy GRAB A WEIGHTED BLANKET at Stanford University say that music is
approach, which posits that by Studies have shown that a weighted “one of the most widely available and
changing the way that we think, we can blanket can have a relaxing effect on cost effective therapeutic modalities
ultimately change the way we behave. the body. Hence, getting your hands on that ever existed” and suggest that
Eventually, the anxiety subsides to a travel-friendly version can help you "listening to music seems to be able
a level where it is no longer causing feel more at ease mid-flight. Popular to change brain functioning to the
any dysfunction in the person's life brands include SensaCalm and ZonLi same extent as medication”. Apps like
or at times, even acknowledged.” – you can find them easily online. Calm and Spotify have some perfectly
curated playlists to help soothe you.
USE FACTS OVER FEAR BREATHE SLOWLY
Many fears can stem from ‘what if?’, AND STEADILY VISUALISE
so if you are armed with facts and Simple breathing exercises can send a Exercises in visualisation and
knowledge, these unknowns become signal to the parasympathetic nervous mindfulness can be a powerful
greatly diminished. Did you know, for system to calm the body down. distraction from a state of fear. Try
instance, that turbulence is a natural Breathing expert Max Strom (maxstrom. visualising yourself stepping off the
occurrence when flying and, although com) has some easy videos and courses aircraft into the arms of loved ones,
it can feel scary at times, it's totally to try – simply download his Strategic or into a lovely warm climate. There
normal? British Airways has a one-day Breathing app. One such suggestion is are many apps available to support
course coming up in Dubai on April 17, the 4-7-8 breath technique: empty the you with guided exercises, including
2020 led by experienced presenters lungs of air, breathe in quietly through Headspace, Catch It, Beat Panic, Thrive
and BA pilots that explains the the nose for four seconds, hold the and the online course, Be Mindful.
HAVE YOU
PICKED UP YOUR
EDITION OF
DNATA TRAVEL
DEALZ
THIS MONTH?
Don’t miss dnata Travel’s top monthly offers
STAYCATIONS INTERNATIONAL
TRENDING AND GETAWAYS HOLIDAY
DESTINATIONS CLOSER TO HOME PACKAGES
With our 60 years of experience and global partnerships, you’ll be surprised at how far we can take you, for less. Go on an
unmissable UAE staycation to a brand new property or a great located resort with plenty of added extras. Experience your
dream international holiday, to an exciting, trending destination or on a package designed for all the family — with
extras including discounts off of your stay, room upgrades and free kids stays. Whatever your travel style, you’ll find
something incredible for you at an amazing price, right here in dnata Travel dealz.
For more information

visit dnatatravel.com, call 800 dnata (36282) or
visit your nearest dnata Travel outlet
Download our app | Follow us on
A diamond in the rough
Escape to Anantara’s resort in Salalah and unlock an intriguing mixture
of culture and heritage, with a generous helping of outdoor adventure
Luxe mobile camping
WORLD TRAVELLER X AL BALEED RESORT SALALAH BY ANANTARA
One Bedroom Beach View Pool Villa
One Bedroom Garden

View Pool Villa
The luxurious
hammam
S
et on a wild, palm-fringed beach, members of the local Mahrah tribe along dinner under the stars served by the camp
Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara the ancient frankincense routes, to special fire. During your adventure, you’ll cross paths
is an idyllic hideaway that's fast interest trips focusing on marine life, with local tribesmen and get an up close look
becoming a favourite among intrepid astrology, archaeology and more. Hiking at the rich wildlife the country has to offer,
travellers. For a moment, you may even be in the mountains, which are dotted with as you experience the way of the bedouin.
fooled into thinking you’re lazing on the cultural and historic sites and brimming Simply tailor the experience to suit you.
tropical beaches of southern India as you with flora and fauna, is unmissable – make If all that adventure has burned through
unwind on the pristine stretch of shoreline. your way up for views that will take your your energy reserves, take some time to
The reality is even better, however, as breath away. Those who like to be on the rejuvenate at the main resort. Offering
the verdant southern province of Dhofar water can take part in dolphin and sea- elegant rooms and villas (the largest of
is famous for its lush natural attractions, turtle watching, enjoy a day’s fishing, or which sleeps up to six adults and three
including its fruit plantations, waterfalls discover the underwater delights with some children), a pampering spa that draws
and green rolling hills that burst into life snorkelling or diving in the area, which is upon age-old Ayurveda techniques and
during the summer monsoon season. Home teeming with sea life. fine dining on tap, you'll receive nothing
to fascinating sites including Al Balid City, Back at the resort, you can stay in hot short of the royal treatment. Feed your
which dates to 2000 BCE, and the Museum pursuit of adventure while on a glamorous appreciation for the place by siting down
of the Land of Frankincense, it's also the camping experience. Operated by Oman to a five-star meal at Mekong, which brings
perfect spot in which to soak up the rich Expeditions, you can sleep under the stars together some of the best of Thai, Chinese
Omani heritage. Indeed, the destination (albeit with all your creature comforts) in and Vietnamese cuisine. Another favourite
calls adventure-seekers in droves with its a luxury tent complete with comfortable is beach bar and lounge Al Mina, offering
awesome landscape that blends the majestic mattress, cotton sheets, private bathroom, dishes inspired by Middle Eastern,
mountains, great expanses of desert and the and open-air shower, with finishing touches Spanish, Greek and Italian cuisine, as well
sparkling blue sea. including Arabesque rugs, candles and oil as a sizzling beach barbecue that's best
Guests at Al Baleed Resort Salalah by lamps creating a magical ambience. Your enjoyed alfresco.
Anantara can enjoy a bespoke itinerary, personal chefs will prepare an array of Middle
which weaves in all those must-have Eastern, North African and Mediterranean To find out more, visit www.anantara.
experiences, from camel trekking with dishes using local ingredients for a delectable com/en/al-baleed-salalah
The Indian Ocean’s
most incredible spas
Feeling jaded after the festive season? Head to one of these dreamy spas
in the Maldives, Seychelles or Mauritius to thoroughly recharge
Seychelles
Le Syel Spa, Four Seasons
Resort Seychelles
High on a hilltop overlooking Petite Anse
Bay on Mahé’s southwestern coast, this
nurturing spa is reason enough to check-in
for at least a week. There are five open-air
treatment rooms, all facing the ocean and
with an outdoor bathtub for soaking up
the best views and breezes. Treatments
such as facials, body scrubs and massages
are locally-inspired and performed by
expert hands, while the resident yogis and
visiting practitioners, from reiki healers to
sophrologists, provide top-to-toe rebalancing.
Top treatment: Performed by two therapists
working in unison, the Four-Handed Elevation
is two hours of pure, sleep-inducing bliss.
Raffles Spa, Raffles Seychelles

On the north-eastern tip of Praslin, the
second-largest island in the Seychelles, this
slick spa mixes Biologique Recherche facials
with Asian massage and yoga. There are a
dozen open-air treatment pavilions where you
can admire the views of the sapphire-blue
ocean (if you can keep your eyes open long
enough, that is). Recline by the outdoor pool
in between treatments, and relax in the sauna,
steam room and Jacuzzi.
Top treatment: For the most buttery-soft
skin imaginable, try the Traditional Chocolate
Scrub – a sweet-smelling concoction of cacao
powder, raw sugar and coconut oil.
SUITE
INCREDIBLE
SPOTSSPAS
2019
Le Syel Spa, Four

Seasons Resort
Seychelles Photo:
Ken Seet
INCREDIBLE SPAS
Kempinski The Spa, Kempinski

Seychelles Resort Baie Lazare
Set on a stunning stretch of coastline in southwest
Mahé, the Kempinski’s spa menu is inspired by the
four seasons. Nestled among swaying palm trees
with the air infused by frangipanis, there are six
thatch-roof bungalows and a menu of treatments
designed to leave you feeling revitalised, relaxed,
balanced or energised. Rejuvenate both body and
mind with morning yoga on a hilltop overlooking
the sea, and afternoon pétanque on the beach.
Top treatment: Experience three coconut-infused
treatments – an exfoliating body scrub, hair
treatment and massage – during the two-hour
Island Coco Trio ritual.
U Spa by Constance,
Constance Ephelia
Where better to unwind than a
barefoot-luxe resort on Mahé’s
northwestern coast, bookended by
beaches with a mangrove forest in
the middle? Tucked among tropical
gardens, U Spa by Constance is like
a mini-village: a dozen traditional-
style bungalows dotted around
a pool, with sauna, steam room,
Jacuzzi, yoga pavilion and beauty
bar. Take your pick of treatments
and couples’ rituals that use natural
products inspired by local plants,
while the soothing soundtrack of
birdsong floats in.
Top treatment: The no-oil Thai
shiatsu massage combines deep
kneading and stretching to help
ease tense muscles and balance
your mind.
AvaniSpa, Avani Barbarons Resort

& Spa
Ease into the rhythm of island life at this tranquil
spa on Mahé’s west coast. Choose from ‘me-time’
treatments or ‘we-time’ couples’ rituals performed
by skilled therapists using natural products,
including nourishing body treatments, heavenly
massages and Ayurvedic therapies. In-between
treatments, work on your tan by the plunge pool,
or head down to the beach where the resident
yoga instructor leads daily sun salutations and
guided meditations.
Top treatment: Want smooth, plumped-up skin?
The Glorious Skin facial reduces fine lines and
rehydrates sun-damaged skin.
Banyan Tree Spa,
Banyan Tree
Seychelles
Banyan Tree spas are all
about traditional techniques
(Thai, Balinese, Ayurvedic)
and natural ingredients
(coconut, honey, cucumber),
and this gorgeous hideaway
on Mahé’s south-western
coast is no exception.
Nimble-fingered therapists
will unknot tense muscles
so you float out feeling
incredibly calm, while yoga
and meditation sessions take
place in the tropical gardens
overlooking the crescent-
shaped beach, or on the
powdery soft sand.
Top treatment: The 2.5-hour
Royal Banyan ritual begins
with a herbal soak, followed
by acupressure, herbal
compresses and a soothing
face massage.
INCREDIBLE SPAS
Maldives
The Over-Water Spa, Conrad Maldives
Rangali Island
With three glass-floored treatment rooms set on stilts over
the sea, this spectacular spa in the South Ari Atoll offers
both ancient therapies and modern treatments. There’s
a comprehensive massage menu, including hot stone,
four-hand, shiatsu and Thai, as well as a dozen different
facials with products from Elemis and cult Swiss brand
Valmont. Two-hour colour rituals, meanwhile, are designed
to balance your chakras (stressed-out types should opt for
energising orange).
Top treatment: Enjoy side-by-side pampering during the
Maldivian Indigenous couples’ treatment that includes a
full-body massage using heated coconut sticks.
Six Senses Spa, Iaso Medi Spa, Heritance

Six Senses Laamu Aarah
Overlooking a talcum-white beach in Named after the Greek goddess of
the remote southern Laamu Atoll, the recuperation, this overwater spa in
Six Senses Spa has a zen-inducing vibe. the Raa Atoll offers much more than
The focus is on natural and holistic massage. Alongside facials, body scrubs
treatments, including facials, wraps and pedicures, there’s a menu of highly
and gentle full-body pummelling, along specialised treatments to target pesky
with Ayurveda therapies based on your problems such as sunspots, sagging
dosha (body type) and soul-nurturing necks and frown lines. Need a total
meditation and yoga in the rooftop reboot? Tailored programmes combine
studio. For targeted transformation, things like vitamin infusions, face peels
opt for a bespoke wellness programme and PT sessions to help you roll back
focusing on sleep, fitness or detoxing. the years or shift those extra pounds.
Top treatment: Banish fine lines with the Top treatment: Tighten and brighten
24k Gold Age-Defying Facial, which uses dull and droopy skin with a Non-Surgical
jasmine and gold leaf to boost collagen Facelift, which uses microcurrents to
Six Senses Laamu
production and stimulate cell renewal. boost collagen.
Heavenly Spa, The Westin Maldives

Miriandhoo Resort
Set on a jetty jutting into the turquoise waters
of the Baa Atoll, this aptly-named spa has
glass-walled treatment rooms with windows in
the floor so you can keep an eye on the marine
life below. Choose from anti-ageing facials and
muscle-melting massages to paraffin hand
treatments and pedicures. After you’ve been
thoroughly pampered, head to the light-filled
lounge for a cup of herbal tea and yet more
blissful views.
Top treatment: The 90-minute Maldivian
Bliss face and body treatment includes a
magnesium-rich bath and dynamic massage
for instant results.
SUITE SPOTS 2019
Calm Spa & Salon,

JA Manafaru Maldives
In the northernmost Haa Alif
Atoll, JA Manafaru’s fabulous
retreat was named Best Luxury
Destination Spa at this year’s
World Luxury Spa Awards.
Pad through lush tropical
gardens to the thatched-roof
spa surrounded by a lily pond,
where all 10 treatment rooms
come with private garden and
outdoor bathtub. One room
is kitted out for Ayurvedic oil
treatments and another for
Thai massage, while treatments
includes facials, massages,
scrubs and wraps.
Top treatment: The ultra-
indulgent Seven Day Manafaru
Journey includes coconut-oil
massages, Elemis facials, after-
sun treatments and more.
Sun Spa by Esthederm,
Movenpick Resort
Kuredhivaru Maldives
Nestled in the Noonu Atoll, this
sublime spa specialises in pre- and
post-sun rituals by French skincare
brand Esthederm to enhance your
golden glow. Treatments take
place in jungle suites or overwater
pavilions, with skilled therapists to
ease away shoulder knots and plump
tired skin. Special treatments are
available for little ones, while yogis
will love the overwater shala where
you can practise your poses during
sunrise or sunset classes.
Top treatment: Let your cares
float away during a Sea of Serenity
massage, which uses firm, rhythmic
strokes inspired by waves.
INCREDIBLE SPAS
Spa by JW, JW Marriott

Maldives Resort
As relaxed as you may be lounging by
the pool at this brand new resort in the
northern Shaviyani Atoll, you’ll definitely
want to check out the brilliant Spa by
JW. Against a backdrop of shimmering
aquamarine water, treatments range
from pampering to deeply restorative
– think hydrating facials, warm-oil
massages and perfect mani-pedis. Be
sure to squeeze in a workout at the
overwater gym, or stretch out in the
open-air yoga pavilion.
Top treatment: Couples can choose
between four different treatments
during the two-hour Island Touch ritual,
including reflexology, body scrub and
hot stone massage.
AVI Spa, InterContinental

Maldives Maamunagau
Resort
Meaning ‘sunshine’ in the local language,
AVI Spa’s thatched-roof overwater
villas offer picture-perfect views of
the Raa Atoll’s largest lagoon. When
you’re not spotting manta rays, indulge
in sweet-smelling organic treatments
and mani-pedis by Margaret Dabbs, or
try acupuncture and aerial yoga. There
are outdoor pools with hydro-massage
jets, as well as thermal suites with steam
rooms and ice fountains.
Top treatment: Bliss out with a soothing
aloe vera and lavender body wrap,
followed by a scalp massage, during the
60-minute Sun-kissed Skin Cooler.
Away Spa, W Maldives

This private island resort in the North
Ari Atoll serves up a full menu of
massages, facials and more immersive
experiences – think chakra balancing
and sound bathing – in four luxurious
treatment villas on the water. Each one
has a spectacular sundeck with soaring
white sails, outdoor tub and daybed so
you can chill out before and after your
treatments. In the main pavilion, you can
practise your asanas during group or
private yoga classes.
Top treatment: The hour-long Crystal
Healing Facial includes a jade-stone
mask, use of cool rose-quartz crystals
and warm herbal poultices to purify
the skin.
Mauritius
Chi Spa, Shangri-La’s Le
Touessrok Resort & Spa
Alongside nine treatment rooms in earthy
tones, you can elect to have your treatment
by the ocean at Shangri-La’s sleek resort on
the east coast. The menu is filled with Asian
therapies (Chinese reflexology, Filipino hilot
massage, Indian shirodhara) and face and
body treatments using luxurious Carita and
Decléor products. But as you’re in Mauritius,
try a locally-inspired massage performed to
the meditative rhythms of traditional sega
tipik music.
Top treatment: Ayurveda devotees should
indulge in an Abhyanga detoxifying
massage with long, symmetrical strokes to
promote sleep.
INCREDIBLE SPAS
Shanti Spa, Shanti

Maurice Resort
With more than 25 treatment rooms,
this south coast idyll is one of the largest
spas in Mauritius. Set around a serene
lagoon dotted with water lilies and two
tea pavilions, the complex contains
pavilions for aerial yoga, a Pilates studio,
meditation rooms, hammams and two
pools. Along with conventional face
and body treatments, the spa takes
an holistic, mind-body-soul approach
to wellness, with a resident Ayurveda
doctor on hand to devise customised
programmes for each and every guest.
Top treatment: Try Watsu, a form of
shiatsu massage and movement therapy
that takes place in a warm pool.
Iridium Spa, The St. Regis

Lux Me Spa, LUX* Grand Gaube Mauritius Resort
Resort & Villas Staying at this colonial-style resort on
This impressive spa on the island’s north the gorgeous Le Morne Peninsula on the
coast has 10 treatment rooms, sauna and island’s southwest tip is a tonic in itself.
steam rooms, Kérastase hair salon and Essie The sprawling spa, meanwhile, boasts 12
nail station, plus three pools with varying treatment rooms, sauna and steam rooms,
water temperatures. Tailor-made treatments hair and nail salons and a barbershop.
include anti-ageing facials by Carita, and Treatments are decadent but results-driven
massage with exclusive oils created by – facial therapies by Swiss brand Valmont,
renowned aromatherapist Shirley Page. For cellulite-busting lymphatic massage
targeted results, chat to Burwing, the resident and hydrating honey wraps – while daily
wellness concierge, who provides bespoke mindfulness, tai chi and yoga classes add
programmes and nutritional advice. to the relaxed vibe.
Top treatment: The fashionably hirsute should Top treatment: Start your day right with
go for the signature Wet Shave at Murdock, an the Morning Bliss in Paradise, a ylang ylang
outpost of the hip London barbershop. massage for two in a cabana on the beach,
followed by a healthy breakfast.
U Spa by Constance,
Constance Prince Maurice
This serene spa on the northeast coast
features seven treatment rooms centred
around a palm-shaded courtyard with a
thermal pool, along with a sauna, steam
room and plunge pool. Gentle therapists
deliver hydrating facials and toning
body treatments by French spa brand
Sisley, while honeymooning couples
enjoy Balinese massages in the open-
air pavilion by the beach. Kids aren’t
forgotten either, with junior treatments
and animal yoga classes.
Words by: Lara Brunt
Top treatment: Treat your feet to a

medical-grade pedicure designed by
celebrity podiatrist Brice Nicham, whose
A-list fans include Nicole Kidman and
Eva Longoria.
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Postcards
Stories from journeys
far and wide
NEW YORK p38
SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE p44
JAPAN p50
XXXXXXXXXXXXX
NEW YORK
From soaring landmarks to awe-inspiring art,

luxury shopping and dishes with star quality
– Faye Bartle discovers how to put a fresh spin on
a timeless classic by mixing the old with the new in
the city that never sleeps
Opposite: Interior view of The

Vessel, courtesy Of Tim Schenck
This page: Nordstrom NYC.
Photo: Connie Zhou
W ‘
ith its bold blue swirls
blending the hills into YOU CAN SEE
the sky and dashes of ROTHKO’S BEST
brilliant yellow and
TEARJERKERS,
white punctuating the darkness, Van
DALÍ’S MELTING
CLOCKS AND
Gogh’s Starry Night has a hypnotising
quality. Firmly under its spell, some
polite jostling allowed me to make my EVEN MONET’S
way to the front of the hushed crowd MURAL-SIZED
WATER LILIES
’
that had gathered to behold its haunting
beauty until I was planted firmly on the
viewing line. Smaller than I imagined TRIPTYCH
it would be, but mighty nonetheless,
I dared to lean a little further towards
it, earning an impressive dose of
side-eye from the security guard. Yes, you can see Rothko’s best
Painted in 1889 during the artist’s tearjerkers, Dalí’s melting clocks and
stay at the asylum of Saint-Paul- even Monet’s dreamy mural-sized Water
de-Mausole near Saint-Rémy-de- Lilies triptych. But you can also now
Provence, the movement in the view emerging works in the Marie-Josée
masterpiece is infectious. Stifling and Henry Kravis Studio (the new space
my urge to reach out and touch it, I for live and experimental programming)
took one last mental snapshot for the which, when I visited, was home to
memory bank before giving way to a curious immersive installation by
the next patient row of onlookers. electronic music maestro David Tudor.
There was plenty more to see As I strolled around the room, turning
inside New York’s Museum of Modern my ears towards the sounds resonating
Art. Having recently re-opened from the everyday objects suspended in
after a massive renovation, which the air (the vintage computer hard disc
has brought expanded galleries was my favourite instrument) I found
and brand new spaces dedicated to myself craving an altogether different
live performances, art creation and soundtrack – that of New York itself.
sparking conversation, this much- The whoosh of a subway train
loved institution is buzzing with people speeding past, the incessant honking
seeking a fresh perspective on the Big of taxi horns, a flurry of shoes click-
Apple’s quintessential art experience. clacking along the sidewalks, sirens
NEW YORK
These pages, clockwise from wailing and street vendors enticing you
this image: Statue of Liberty
Museum Engagement Gallery, to buy their pretzels and hot dogs in
courtesy of National Park
Service; Presidential Suite by
their thick New York drawl… the city’s
Roche Bobois at The Langham, energetic score may seem mundane to
New York, Fifth Avenue;
installation view of Claude some but, to me, is absolutely thrilling.
Monet’s Water Lilies (Gallery
515) The Museum of Modern Formerly a dedicated London rat, a
Art, New York. © 2019 The
Museum of Modern Art.
decade in Dubai had me missing the
Photo: Kurt Heumiller sounds of the streets. And although
the winter weather was decidedly
fresh – I’d forgotten what it felt like
to be slapped in the face by a sub-zero
gale – I was determined to spend the
majority of my time exploring on foot.
Gloves and woolly hat on, a walk
in Central Park was non-negotiable.
The last time I had visited, in 2004,
there was snow on the ground.
On this brisk November morning,
however, as skaters glided across
the ice rink, the leaves falling from
the trees were still heart-warming
shades of brown, red and orange.
“Hey, where you from?”
shouted a stranger wrapped
up like the Michelin Man.
“Dubai,” I offered back.
“I’ve heard it’s a very nice country,”
he retorted. I could have explained, but
instead I simply smiled and continued
on my city hike. Anyway, I had a lunch
date at Marea, the famous Italian on
the edge of the park, where you can
often spot off-duty A-listers (Sarah
Jessica Parker – her shoe boutique is
just a hop and a skip away – Jay-Z and
Beyoncé and even Barack and Michelle
Obama have reportedly eaten there). It’s
certainly the place to see and be seen.
We craned our necks while sipping our
bubbly but alas, the restaurant’s two
Michelin stars would have to be enough
to dazzle us today – and that they did.
My oysters were plump and delicious,
and the striped bass with clams was
rich in flavour yet light enough for
a middle of the day indulgence.
Experiencing New York’s vibrant dining
scene while actively trying to avoid falling
into a food coma was proving quite the
challenge, however. I savoured a divinely
rich homemade short rib and boschetto
cheese ravioli at yet another Italian great,
Ai Fiori [The Langham, New York, Fifth
Avenue], tasted zingy gazpacho before
splitting a humongous lip-smacking
black Angus steak at Leña in Mercado
Little Spain [10 Hudson Yards], and
enjoyed a taste of home at Ilili restaurant
NEW YORK
‘ PEERING
[236 5th Avenue], which serves Lebanese scaling yet another new attraction: The
Mediterranean food with a twist, such Vessel, which opened in March 2019.
OUT FROM
UNDERNEATH
as lamb chops seared with zaatar salsa The honeycomb-like structure, designed
verde and homemade semolina gnocchi, by Thomas Heatherwick, is comprised
as well as all your mezze favourites. of 154 intricately interconnecting MY UMBRELLA,
Everything I tasted was beyond delicious. flights of stairs, challenging you with I SPOTTED
Even the steaming cup of hot chocolate I almost 2,500 steps to take to reach
ROBERT
sipped to warm my bones on the ferry to
Liberty Island was extraordinarily good.
the top. Gritty views of the city, the
river and beyond are your reward. INDIANA'S LOVE
SCULPTURES ON
’
I was heading there for a slice of With my trip drawing to a close, I
American history courtesy of the was keen to see what New York had to THE HIGH LINE
new Statue of Liberty Museum, offer on the shopping front that was
which opened in May last year – the different to what I could find back
most significant addition since the at home. It’s unusual for anything
monument herself was launched in massive to open in Manhattan, which Perhaps it was because my room at
1886. Home to three immersive and is what makes the flagship Nordstrom, The Langham was like a little apartment
engaging gallery spaces, it tells the which opened in October 2019 at 57th & (indeed, a large apartment by New
story of Lady Liberty, where she came Broadway, particularly noteworthy. A York standards), my unfettered view
from, how she was built and what she behemoth spread over seven floors, it’s of the Chrysler Building from my
stands for culminating in an up-close one of the first new stores of its size to supersized tub, and being swept away
view of the original torch, which was open on the island since the 1920s. It’s in a whirlwind of room service and
held high for nearly 100 years until it home to a number of exclusives worth butter-soft bedding. Or perhaps it was
was replaced in 1986. You can practically splashing your dollars on, including the the fact that I didn't suffer an ounce
feel the power surging though it. And Nordstrom x Nike trainer boutique (it's of jet lag thanks to being horizontal
while you can’t visit the monument's where I found the Air Force 1 Metallic for practically the entire flight thanks
real torch today (it has been closed since Sneakers of my dreams). You can put to Saudia’s Business Class beds, but
the Black Tom explosion in 1916), you your own stamp on anything you buy, I'd taken to New York like a mandarin
can climb all the way up to the crown. with tailoring or monogramming, duck to Central Park pond. And while
I was saving my legs for scaling thanks to the in-store Personalization I’d packed a lot into my five-day stay, I
the Empire State Building, however, Studio. The beauty floor is dangerously learned that even if you're a seasoned
which was just around the block from good, with clever solutions for busy visitor, there are always new ways to
my hotel; The Langham, New York, New Yorkers, including the FaceGym discover the city that never sleeps.
Fifth Avenue. I joined the sunset where you can give your face a workout
rush, zooming up in the lift and then with moves designed to lift, sculpt tone We flew with Saudia and stayed at The
climbing the last few flights to the and tighten, and the Drybar that turns Langham, New York, Fifth Avenue.
open-air 86th Floor Observation Deck a messy mane into a head of glorious Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call
in order to get there before the sun locks without a drop of water in sight. 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
dipped below the horizon. The view
was just as magical as I had hoped for, This page: The Statue
of Liberty stands proud
with everything from Times Square to Opposite: A snapshot of
The High Line
the Brooklyn Bridge, to feast my eyes
on, it’s still one of the most romantic
ways to get an overview of the city.
Another elevated experience that
won a place in my heart was walking
The High Line. This public park built
on a historic freight rail line above
the streets on Manhattan’s West Side
is dotted with public art, beautiful
gardens and more, delivering surprises
at every twist and turn. Peering out
from underneath my umbrella, I spotted
Robert Indiana's Love sculptures,
canoodling couples and bold political
statements as window dressings in
the apartments that line the track.
I came back down to ground level at
Hudson Yards, yet only with a view to
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Coconut palms sway along
the shore in Porto Alegre
Into the
Unknown
Soft-sand beaches, zingy African flavours – and yet the
delicious little islands of São Tomé and Príncipe are still
almost empty. Fill your boots, says Stanley Stewart
SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE
ometime past midnight, began in 1470, when the islands

with little but starlight to became an outpost of that creakiest
guide us, we crept along of enterprises, the Portuguese empire
the sands of Praia Grande – powered by the sweat of slaves
in search of a miracle. imported from the African mainland.
‘We have several every They may be two small outcrops in the
night,’ our guide was mid-Atlantic that few people have heard
saying. ‘Many have of – yet, sure enough, with their gorgeous
come thousands of natural assets, São Tomé and Príncipe
kilometres to get to this have begun attracting barefoot-in-the-
beach, some from the sand paradise-seekers in recent times,
other side of the Atlantic.’ the kind of escapees who’ve fallen for
Somewhere behind the Thailand and Goa in the past, but now
line of waves we found a green fancy a couple of weeks of tropical R&R
turtle. She had created a nest by digging untainted by burger bars, nightclubs and
a hollow in the sand and laid a cache of suave-mixologist-dominated hangouts.
eggs like a collection of white marbles. And all without stinting on stylish, comfy,
Now she was trying to hide them, her world-class places to rest their heads.
back flippers slowly flicking sand. She São Tomé and Príncipe have beaches
seemed exhausted, and must have felt that would impress a Brazilian; dance
clumsy and heavy on this beach. She steps (the kizomba, the tarrachinha) that
worked in fits and starts, pausing after would make a Cuban blush; vegetation
each exertion to catch her breath, until more riotous than the Amazon’s; the
the eggs began to disappear. The guide world’s best chocolate; and a fascinating
located a tracking tag and checked the bird – sadly only seen by a handful of
details. She was over 100 years old, people and known by locals as a goo-goo,
born when men were still dying in the which apparently eats eggs and poos gold.
trenches of the First World War. Oh, and did I mention the sprinkling
The long peregrinations, the return of elegant boutique-y hideaways?
to their place of birth, the danger, the In São Tomé they say ‘Léve-léve’ –
courage… The whole sea-turtle story literally ‘Softly-softly’, in the sense of ‘Take
was what had brought me here. It it easy’. It makes sense. Disembarking
appealed to my romantic instincts. For in São Tomé, I was soon immersed in a
millions of years, they were the chief leisurely swirl of life: mothers carried
visitors to São Tomé and Príncipe, 50kg of bananas on their heads and babies
two small islands roughly 150km on their backs, ‘commuters’ pushed
apart, lying in the Gulf of Guinea, bicycles uphill with fish hanging from
320km off the coast of West Africa. the crossbar. Dogs slept in the middle
The lush, verdant islands were a of the road. Goats jaywalked. But this
terrestrial paradise – an Eden without stopover was merely a taster – it was
Adam and Eve to mess things up. No Príncipe that delivered me to heaven.
one lived here until colonialisation All it took was a half-hour onward
‘ I PICNICKED ON EMPTY BEACHES.

flight by propeller plane. In Príncipe
I TOOK MINI VOYAGES TO REMOTE

they say ‘Móli-móli’ – advice for people
who find ‘Léve-léve’ just that little bit
PENINSULAS JUST TO LAZE AND
’
too rushed. Unsurprisingly, I was soon
drowsing in a haven of hammocks and
tropical plants, empty beaches and
LISTEN TO BIRDSONG
islanders living in rural tranquillity.
I checked in at Roça Sundy, an old
plantation house reworked as a boutique activity, the enterprise of the roças as well the long beach with the fishing boats
hotel of high-ceilinged rooms, four- as the oppression of the colonial system. drawn up, the leaning palm trees and the
poster beds and polished floorboards, He was soon on his feet, telling stories full wide, blue bay. ‘You know why I stay?’ he
where I slipped effortlessly into a less of theatrical flourish. He was entertaining, asked. ‘Because time stands still here.’
brutal version of the colonial lifestyle. certainly, but the tales he told contained To say tourism is in its infancy is an
By the first evening I had established genuine trauma. He was exorcising understatement. In a week I saw only
something of a routine: sipping ghosts. Reducing the stories to anecdotes 20 other visitors. I picnicked on empty
rum Daiquiris on the terrace and was his way of coping with a painful past. beaches. I took mini voyages to remote
dining alone in candlelit splendour, His wife returned with a plate of peninsulas just to laze and listen to
as if I were a hill-station planter. pineapple slices. ‘We must live for today,’ birdsong. I was usually delivered to shore
Roças, as these plantation houses are he exclaimed, throwing his hands up. by Luis, who turned out to be just one of
known, fell into disrepair after 1975, when ‘We have the sun, the sea, this beautiful a bunch of beautiful characters happy to
the Portuguese realised their empire was island.’ He leant forward conspiratorially: be earning a living helping visitors. There
well past its sell-by date, and packed up ‘And I have the best pineapples on was João the driver, Miguel, the maitre
and left, taking everything moveable, Príncipe.’ He was right, although I suspect d’, Alexander, the ubiquitous barman.
including all the country’s currency. his wife was responsible for them. And then there was lovely Leandro…
Today, across the northern half of the As móli-móli as I could, on Sunday I found Leandro one afternoon
island, the properties stand largely as morning I set off to explore, following having ventured out to Roça Paciência,
overgrown monuments, riddled with dry red-earth roads through exuberant a plantation abandoned decades ago.
rot and ghosts. But there are impressive jungle. I went to church in the toy-town In one of its empty storerooms he was
restorations, such as Roça Sundy, a ruin capital, Santo António, and found myself weaving basket lampshades for the
saved and made beautiful by a wealthy in a swaying chorus line of heavenly resorts, his bony hands looping the reed
South African, Mark Shuttleworth, who backing singers as dogs wandered in to in and out of the struts. From time to
spent a week aboard the International have a snooze beneath the high altar. time, he took a break to smoke his way
Space Station in 2002. On Príncipe At Praia Abade it was the villagers who through the dictionary. ‘Do you know
they call him the Man on the Moon. were snoozing in hammocks, while the we are at the centre of the world?’ he
For me, Sundy’s seductions went children, glossy as seals, somersaulted asked, tearing another page from his
far beyond the Daiquiris. Parts of the into the waves. One man woke to say old book to roll a cigarette. Through the
roça are still inhabited by Príncipean hello. Luis was an émigré from São Tomé. doorway I could see glamorous birds
families, and the terreiro – the long He stretched his arms to encompass with long, silky tails swooping across
central grassy courtyard around which
the old plantation buildings were set –
was as lively as an Italian piazza in the
hour of the passeggiata. For a couple of
days I was content to do nothing more
than watch children chase footballs,
twirl skipping ropes and scatter
chickens. Toddlers clambered over a
defunct steam engine. While men idled
on benches, women bathed children,
carried firewood, fetched water, cooked
lunch, weeded gardens, planted corn
and generally kept the world turning.
Before long I fell in with Manu, a warm
and energetic sexagenarian, who farmed
pineapples on the slopes beneath his
house. His wife brought us coffee and a
plate of finger bananas. He grew expansive
about the old days under the Portuguese,
veering between praise for the economic
Opposite: Red sky at night at Porto
Alegre This page, clockwise from
top: A vibrant parrotfish pauses by
the coral reef; a fishing canoe rests
at Lagoa Azul; juicy pineapples
grow on the island
the old plantation lawns. The sound of
the Atlantic pounding on the pristine
beach drifted our way through the trees.
‘People say we are far away, that this
is a remote place,’ he told me as we
talked. ‘But this island is the closest
land to where the equator meets zero
degrees longitude. This is the centre.
It is everyone else who is far away.’
The old plantations occupy the
northern half of Príncipe. The southern
half (the whole island is barely 30km long)
is virgin forest. To islanders it is as remote
as Outer Mongolia. To me, it felt like a lost
world halfway between Tolkien’s Middle
Earth and Gauguin’s South Sea paradise.
Volcanic towers – spectacular basalt
phonolites – thrust their way through the
jungle canopy, rising hundreds of metres
above the treetops. Flat-topped mesas
and mountains dominate the skyline.
I took a boat to this outback, flying
fish darting beneath the bows, and went
ashore to trek along jungle trails, keeping
an eye out for the elusive goo-goo. The
astonishing birdlife (there are 28 species
on Príncipe) was as tame as in the
Galápagos, lending a strange, dream-
like quality. A kingfisher perched a mere
metre away, cocking its head to get a good
look at me. Finches gathered about me,
‘
settling on nearby branches. A golden
weaver alighted near my elbow, a piece of TO SAY TOURISM IS IN ITS INFANCY
IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT. IN A WEEK
’
grass in its beak, ready to slot into its nest.
I donned a mask and snorkel and the
dream continued. With warm currents
I SAW ONLY 20 OTHER VISITORS
and excellent visibility, Príncipe’s seas
are as pristine and as little explored as
the land. An expedition here in 2006 the sea turtles, swimming earnestly to recoup her strength. I spent a couple
discovered 60 new fish, including 10 towards their birthplaces, their little of hours at Praia Grande with a guide
from completely unknown species. I startled faces gazing up at me through from Marapa, a marine-conservation
gazed down at nurse sharks 2.5 metres shafts of refracted light. On these charity protecting the nesting sites. Half
a dozen turtles were laying their eggs
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing
long, hovering over beds of sea grass islands, turtles are creatures of legend
in aqueous light. I watched silvery and myth. They are seen as heroic, that night, after making the epic trip up
barracuda, stationary with the merest symbols of loyalty and determination. On the beach. The largest was a leatherback
flick of their tails. Beyond a reef of pale Príncipe people speak of someone with probably two metres across. Its offspring,
rock, I spotted a spectacular Atlantic courage as having the heart of a turtle. hatching weeks later, would need that
sailfish, its huge dorsal fin hoisted to On that beach at Praia Grande, just turtle heart. Not many would even make
the currents. With a turn of my head, after midnight, the heroism was evident. it to the ocean; fewer than 1% would live
I saw colourful parrotfish grazing on Having covered her eggs, my green turtle to maturity. But those that did would
algae, bloated pufferfish comically began the trek back to the ocean. It wasn’t eventually return to this same beach
struggling to keep themselves upright in that far unless you were an exhausted on São Tomé and Príncipe: paradise
the wash above the reefs, and shoals of 110kg turtle trying to walk on flippers after found – for all discerning travellers.
yellowtail sardinella, wheeling this way a 1,500km swim having just produced 100
and that like well-drilled regiments. eggs. It took her half an hour, levering Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call
And finally, in Mosteiros Bay, I found herself forward a pace at a time, pausing 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
This page: Soft,
colourful corals around
Lizard Island
Credit: Andrew Eames/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing
Opposite: A harvest
of cocoa pods
This page: An aerial view of
a paradisiacal beach cove
Snow falls on the gassho-zukuri
farmhouses in the historic village of
Ogimachi in Shirakawa-gō
JAPAN
Winter in Japan can be harsh, but, thanks to the country’s heated

onsen baths, piping hot noodle bowls and intimate restaurants, the
freeze also offers the ultimate chance to get cosy. Alicia Miller wraps
up and explores the snowy spectacle
can no longer feel my Japanese macaques, they’re so-nicknamed high in the craggy peaks of the Japanese
toes. That’s all I can think, because when powder blankets the Alps, a few hours northwest from the
crunching down the narrow, ground, they descend in droves from capital, and also in Hokkaido, Japan’s
icy path, past tall pine trees, their remote mountain habitats for northern most island, blankets of thick,
needles laden with snow, thawing dips in hot springs, famously at powdery snow bring everything to silence
along perilous, frigid cliffs. Suddenly Jigokudani, a dedicated conservation park and stillness. Under the veil of white,
– finally – I reach my destination: outside Nagano. If you’re lucky, you might landscapes achieve postcard-perfection –
Jigokudani, or Hell’s Valley. The name spot a handful in spring or autumn, but like real-life Hokusai prints – and it’s as if
suits. Amid the dunes of fresh white that they really come into their own when the nothing has changed here for centuries.
carpet this frozen forest, hot streams weather turns frosty. As do belly-warming In the most picturesque, snowy parts
ripple, glassy pools shift and scorching bowls of ramen noodle soup, pretty Alpine it’s icy – minus points on the mercury,
waters lap smooth boulders clean. I’ve towns and, of course, onsen itself. Most maybe in double digits – but no matter:
reached an onsen, a Japanese hot spring. travellers flock to Japan for spring cherry the Japanese know how to handle a
It’s miles from anywhere – and yet far blossom, or in sultry summer, or to see freeze. More than that: in the most frigid
from secret. Before me, bodies teem. They autumn leaves turn – but they don’t know of its regions, they actually appreciate
slip in and out of the waters, stroking what they’re missing. December to March the chill – knowing that without
and fluffing hair, rubbing pink faces. is the quietest and cheapest time to visit, cold, there’s no such thing as cosy.
The light is fading, I’m numb from head but winter here has so much more to offer The air was crisp when I touched down
to toe and nothing would be nicer than besides. This is when the thick clouds in the Japanese capital two days before
joining them in the steaming pools. that cloak Mount Fuji finally melt away, meeting those monkeys. I was a Tokyo
But it wouldn’t be right, bathing in this revealing its cinematic snowcap against a veteran and fell into its frenetic, neon
onsen. Because I’m not a snow monkey. crisp blue sky. It’s when Tokyoites huddle embrace as one falls into the arms of
Snow monkeys are an only-in-Japan in squeezy, smoky bars, stamping their an old friend. It was rainy and 48 hours
sight. Or, more specifically, an only-in- feet and slurping rich oden fish stews to was just enough to get my fix, visiting
Japan winter sight. Officially known as shake off damp evenings. And it’s when, the parts I’d loved as a resident: the
JAPAN
‘
ON MY LAST
crushing intersection at Shibuya and cloaked waters, with no other company
the soaring Tokyo Skytree tower. It was
just as well, as that time was all I had DAY, I SPENT THE but a couple of whispering, wrinkly
old ladies, I knew the journey had been
– after all, I wasn’t here for drizzle, but AFTERNOON IN worth it. Beyond my rock-studded pool
for a taste of the real Japanese winter. THE PARK. NOT was a panorama of trees and a crinkle
My journey northwest traversed a
WANDERING, BUT of whitecapped mountain ranges: the
CROSS-COUNTRY
’
dramatic shift in climate. The bullet Japanese Alps. These folds of icy rock, a
SKIING
train rolled out of Tokyo Station 7.52am seam 200km long and higher than 3,000
precisely, under a grey haze, and sped metres in places, hold many treasures.
through boxy suburbs that melted into When I finally emerged from the onsen,
open, flurry-brushed fields. Tokyo had pink as a peach, I pulled on my yukata
been heavy-sweater weather; when I robe and slippers and made for my
stepped out to change to a bus at Nagano tatami-mat-lined bedroom. Before long,
an hour and a half later, snowflakes etiquette – and the awkward nudity (hot a knock at my door revealed a smiling
were dancing in the air. By the time I springs are entered strictly in the buff, woman with a heaving tray. I ushered
hit Jigokudani in early afternoon, I had men and women segregated). But try an her in, where she laid an elaborate
ascended more than 800 metres and alfresco dip in winter and you’ll be forever private banquet on a low table: sashimi
the ground was covered in white drifts. converted: frosty air cooling your neck, platters; pickles; marbled red beef for
Comic-book icicles clung to stout old coddling, mineral-rich water soothing a DIY hotpot; a flame-licked vessel of
homes by the park-entrance gate. It was your limbs – the chance to savour nature’s slow-cooking mushroom rice. Settling
a half-hour trudge along that slippery, stimulating contrasts at their best. onto a cushion on the tatami mat floor,
alabaster path to the monkeys. It was Stepping into the warm outdoor hot I surveyed the feast before me, letting
cold, but I felt a warm glow the moment spring at Hotakaso Sangetsu ryokan was her carefully explain each dish (in mime
I saw those adorable, fluffy critters like getting a big hug. A bus had whisked – her English wasn’t great, my Japanese
dart excitedly into their onsen baths. me here along icing-sugar roads from worse). Then she bowed and shuffled
Onsen, if you didn’t know, is actually a Nagano to remote Hirayu Onsen town, out the door, leaving me to devour my
Japanese ritual for humans. Foreigners from which a silent taxi driver ferried me gourmet meal in serenity (and, even
can get nervous about the complex up into the hills. Once in the still, steam- better, still in the comfort of my robe).
Opposite: Large
snowflakes fall in
busy Shibuya
This page: A mother
snow monkey
cuddles her baby
JAPAN
‘MOST TRAVELLERS FLOCK TO JAPAN

FOR SPRING CHERRY BLOSSOM, OR TO
SEE AUTUMN LEAVES TURN – BUT THEY
DON’T KNOW WHAT THEY’RE MISSING
’
While Japan nails the whole cosy-winter- lit alleyway lined with tiny ramen for glory in the annual, city-wide Snow
hibernation thing, I didn’t want to shops, filled with laughing students Festival, the biggest and busiest event of
spend my entire trip holed up. I filled lapping up miso-rich bowlfuls. I longed the year. On my trip, it hadn’t officially
the following days exploring the Alps: to enter a shop’s warming embrace, started yet, but even the largest of
Takayama, one of country’s prettiest but held firm: on a tip from a Japanese scaffolds couldn’t hide the elaborate
towns, its creaky wooden buildings friend, I was out for jingisukan – a DIY masterpieces taking shape in Sapporo’s
housing atmospheric teahouses and Mongolian BBQ, the city’s speciality. central Odori strip. Elaborate life-
fragrant saké breweries; Ogimachi, I found the restaurant – and the queue. sized temples, enormous carvings of
peppered with ancient gassho-zukuri It was below freezing outside and yet a horse-racers and panoramas of J-pop
farmhouses – pointy, snow-strong row of brave faithfuls stood undeterred stars all rose proud in the icy mix.
structures that look transplanted from snaking down an icicle-lined alleyway On my last day, I spent the afternoon
Switzerland. Then Matsumoto, with outside cult-favourite Daruma. I joined in the park. Not wandering, as I might
its grand old castle and artisan soba them and minutes ticked by; gradually, in spring or autumn – but cross-country
noodle shops. The time flew by in a I lost feeling in my limbs, from the skiing, past silvery larch trees, over
flurry of snowflakes and soon it was ground up. But when the door finally gentle, hilly drifts. This being snow
time to make for Hokkaido, Japan’s opened on my turn, an hour later, I was country, one can hire skis, sleds or even
northerly isle, a 90-minute flight away. rewarded for my persistence. Perched show-shoes at Moerenuma Park for
I hoped it would be the perfect wintry on stools around an oval wooden three hours. I didn’t last quite that long:
(snowcapped) peak to my trip. counter, chattering couples sipped two hours in, my face was whipped by
If I thought it was cold in Jigokudani, drinks, while grilling marbled lamb wind and my toes were unresponsive
I hadn’t felt anything yet. Stepping on domed hotplates, fired by glowing in my boots. After a couple of slippery
out into the city centre in Sapporo, charcoal. I squeezed in and ordered a falls, I felt the chilliest I’d been yet
Hokkaido’s capital, I faced a new level cockle-warming feast, with a flourish of and needed to get out of the frosty
of freeze – piercing, breath-snatching. fluffy rice, kimchi and a sesame-garlic air, fast. So, as dusk washed over the
Under a startling blue sky, long, straight dipping sauce. As I griddled my hunks city, I hopped in a cab back to vibrant,
boulevards radiated out from the of lamb, fat dripped gorgeously down raucous Suskino and took the lift up to
central station, empty. Below ground, the grill to soften golden onions. By now, the second-floor Nikka Bar, overlooking
however, was a hive of activity: a web of I’d forgotten all about the cold outside. a humming traffic intersection.
interconnecting sub-surface walkways Sapporo and its charms unveil Cloaked in dark polished woods
ferried scarf-wrapped workers and themselves slowly, like a gradual and rich leathers, the bar’s walls
hooded shoppers across the city centre. spring thaw. You can spend a day out were lined with glimmering bottles.
They’d pop up from this underground at frozen lake Shikotsu, enjoying its Socialising salarymen were cloistered
city when they reached their desired illuminated winter display; another in corners. I thumbed through the
Credit: Alicia Miller/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing
stop, like dolphins breaching for air, and soaking at a geyser-studded onsen in menu, before a suited barman poured
dart across windswept intersections Noboribetsu town, a train ride away; my drink of choice as if it was liquid
into towering silver office blocks. yet another watching rare red-crowned gold. Out the window, in the streets
Hardened to the chill, these locals may cranes dance across fields of ice. Or below, bundled-up commuters darted
grit their teeth on the most blistering simply keep to the city centre, walking between tumbling snowflakes. Settling
of days, but they rarely complain. If through the fish market, stocked into my squishy chair, I felt my cheeks
Tokyoites are like Londoners, whingeing with lithe, prickly crabs; it’s a treat to warming and my limbs thawing. Then,
over a light chill and shaking umbrellas dine on the sweet, perfectly in-season my drink appeared before me and I
through winter, Sapporo’s residents meat in any no-frills restaurant. raised the glass to my lips, taking a
are stoic Scandinavians – brave in Japanese tourists flock to the city in early long, slow sip. Rolling it across my
the face of this vast, great iciness. February. Some ogle the towering ski tongue, I savoured its sharp heat – and
That evening, I wandered south from jump, a remnant of the 1972 Olympics; the frosty hit of ice. Shiveringly good:
my hotel along the gritted streets to most sip frothy brews at the rambling the very essence of winter Japan.
Suskino, Sapporo’s nightlife district. Sapporo brewery. But all are here to
Tummy rumbling, I shivered past watch artists from around the world Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call
warren-like izakaya pubs and a lantern- chisel vast ice sculptures, competing 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
This page: Soft,
colourful corals around
Lizard Island
Clockwise from above

left: The icy path to
hot spring haven Hell's
Valley; a swan spreads
its wings in front of
Mount Fuji; Kyoto's
historic Higashiyama
district gets a dusting; a
steaming bowl of ramen
long weekend
This page: Sunlight
penetrates a labyrinthine
souk in Marrakech
Opposite: Aromatic spices
for sale; Royal Mansour
Marrakech
Marrakech
the
Offering a heady blend of

culture and beauty, Marrakech
is luring the in-crowd to its
charming riads, bustling bazaars
and must-see art attractions
THE LONG WEEKEND
Founded almost 1,000 years ago, Marrakech is one of the

great cities of the Maghreb. Known as the Red City thanks to
its red clay buildings that swarm the medina, it is easily one of
the most beautiful and fascinating spots in Morocco. A place
where Europe, Africa and the Middle East mingle and merge,
this popular trading hub marries the past and present with an
energy that can sometimes feel intimidating, but plan it right
and you’re sure to have the trip of a lifetime.
Home to atmospheric souks and some of the most
impressive architecture (both old and new) that you’ll find
anywhere in the world, nowadays this intoxicating city is
prized as much for its trendy art galleries, hip hotels and
fine-dining restaurants as it is for its bazaars and hidden
palaces. It’s to the famous medina that most visitors gravitate,
where your senses will be overwhelmed with music, the call
to prayer and elaborate feasts. Dark alleyways are brimming
with artisan workshops and sprawling markets in which you
can wander for hours. Offering a tantalising taste of Africa
within easy reach, get set to fall in love with Marrakech…
... and
restful
riads
Charming, calming and
every interior designer’s
dream, Marrakech’s many
riads offer welcome
respite from the hustle
and bustle of the city. A
quiet oasis situated in
the heart of the medina,
LE RIAD YASMINE has
an idyllic pool, which
gets a lot of attention,
but sipping a traditional
Moroccan mint tea in the
lounge is equally dreamy.
One of Marrakech’s
first boutique riads, EL
Revel in a touch of glamour at these stand-out abodes
FENN, which is owned by
If you’re seeking opulence, Oriental, Marrakech is lavish gardens and styled Vanessa Branson (sister
you've come to the right situated just 20 minutes with handcrafted Moorish to Richard), is a maze of
place. Home to 53 luxury from the city’s main square opulence, this is the place interconnected riads that
riads, spread across a of Jemaa el-Fnaa, and to see and be seen. take up an acre of the
medina filled with alleyways with its stunning terracotta Those craving a cooler, medina. First launched
and secret doors, Royal buildings nestled among more contemporary vibe to showcase Vanessa’s
Mansour Marrakech palm, orange and olive should check out Radisson impressive art collection,
provides a rich introduction trees, it’s the perfect mix of Blu Hotel, Marrakech Carré the display is constantly
to Moroccan culture. Be splendour and tradition. Eden, which called upon a re-curated so no two
sure to dine at the new Once home to royalty, chic and savvy Casablanca visits are ever the same.
Sesamo Italian restaurant La Mamounia has been a design studio to craft its Over 200 years old,
by the three-Michelin-Star preferred choice among laid-back, mid-century style. RIAD TCHAIKANA offers
chef Massimiliano Alajmo. A-listers through the With a coveted address in stunning views of the
One of the most decades and has hosted Guéliz, the city’s hippest Atlas Mountains. With
spectacular residences a glittering array of VIPs bars and restaurants are just five bedrooms, it gets
in the city, the Mandarin in its 210 rooms. Set in just a stone’s throw away. booked up fast, so make
sure you plan in advance.
Wander
the souks
With their bustling
atmosphere and thrilling
bargains proving an
assault on the senses, the
souks of Marrakech are a
highlight for any visitor.
There’s always someone
ready to greet you at
these open-air venues,
where artisans have been
toiling over their creations
for centuries.
Traditional woven
carpets, aromatic spices,
colourful lanterns and
pottery stalls can be
found in abundance –
tagine pots, serving plates
and soup bowls come in
all sizes, while jewelled
glassware and ornate
tea pots make a pretty
addition to any dining
room back home.
HAUTE CUISINE
On top of its famous street food scene, the city
has made some serious strides into fine dining
Le Petit Cornichon +61 Le Crystal
Owned by Erwann Lance, Bringing a taste of Located in the Pacha
who has several Michelin- Australia to Morocco, complex, which is also
starred restaurants in chef Andrew Cibej aims home to the famous Ibiza
Paris and New York, to capture the laid-back nightclub of the same
Le Petit Cornichon is culture of the country name, those seeking a
stylish, contemporary with a modern twist, touch of glamour should
and colourful, so it’s no by way of delicious definitely pay Le Crystal
surprise that the style set dishes designed to a visit. A Moroccan Italian
gather here. Tuck into share. Favourites include menu comprises the likes
dishes such as sea bass homemade ricotta with of shrimp risotto, garlic
Originally dedicated ceviche with grapefruit roasted red peppers, parmesan gnocci and
to leatherwork, Souq and pink peppercorns balsamic-glazed lamb foie gras ravioli that are
Semmarine and Souq of tarragon chicken. ribs and chargrilled sirloin definitely worth the price
el-Kebir are the most lepetitcornichon.ma sandwiches. plus61.com tag. pachamarrakech.com
popular street markets
in the city, and today sell
practically anything you
can think of. Prices here LOCAL DELICACIES
may be higher than in Craving a taste of authentic Moroccan cuisine? Marrakech is sure to awaken the senses
other bazaars, however, through traditional flavours influenced by Spain, Arabia and France, and the streets are
so if you're willing to travel teeming with these wallet-friendly eateries. Dedicated to empowering disadvantaged
a little bit further north women through culinary skills, guests can enjoy an ever-changing menu of local dishes
to where the specialist at Amal Women’s Moroccan Restaurant. For stunning views to accompany your meal,
quissariat (covered Al Baraka, in the heart of the legendary Jemaa el-Fnaa, does some of the best couscous
markets) are located, you in the city. Taste light and simple Moroccan fare at the magical Dar Marjana while the
may be able to find similar belly dancers sway – if you’re feeling adventurous, try the pigeon pie.
products for less.
THE LONG WEEKEND
Boutique finds
If it’s one-of-a-kind pieces you’re after, Marrakech
isn’t short on stylish boutiques that are as unique
in interior design as they are in merchandise.
Globetrotting Belgian designer Valerie
Barkowski’s concept store V. Barkowski is
reminiscent of a high-end New York loft that
showcases her fine white bed linens and fluffy
towels that come delicately trimmed with her
signature mini pompoms, while Norya Ayron sells
an array of fashion-forward silk and cotton kaftans
and abayas loved by the likes of Sharon Stone,
Monica Belluci and Kate Moss. For medina-style
streetwear, head to Max & Jan for a selection of
soft drape dresses, slouchy pants and billowing
Opposite from top: dresses perfect for a summer beach holiday,
Le Petit Cornichon; vibrant claypots in
the bazaar while at Laly, browse the rails for bold capes,
This page from top: V.Barkowski
(Photo: Cecile Zehnacker); inside the camo babouche slippers and pochette purses by
beautiful Bahia Palace
designer Badra Benjelloun.
Ask a local CULTURE CRAM own mausoleum. A

fascinating piece of
Resident General
during the French
Delve deeper into the Marrakech’s historical Protectorate.
Amanda Ponzio- city's beating heart jigsaw, El Badi Palace If you’re a fashion
Mouttaki, blogger Marrakech has a is another great lover, make time
at Maroc Mama fascinating and attraction and even to visit the Musée
(marocmama. complex history, with though it largely Yves Saint Laurent
com), shares her an impressive array of stands in ruins today, Marrakech.
insider tips on how museums and sites to you won’t have any Dedicated to the late
to get the most prove it. Take a walk trouble taking a designer’s work, it
out of your trip around the Saadian journey back in time showcases a rotating
Tombs – Saadian and imagining the curation of 5,000
Sultan Ahmed Al splendour of the items of clothing,
Mansour Ed Dahbi palace’s heyday. In 15,000 accessories
“The best advice I can share spared no expense complete contrast is and thousands
about visiting Marrakech is to in crafting his burial the well-preserved of sketches and
have a sense of humour and accept that site, importing Italian Bahia Palace, which documents stored
you will get lost in the medina. Carrara marble for his once housed the for four decades.
I've found when you can be lighthearted
and laugh with people it really breaks
the ice and you’ll end up having a much
more pleasant experience. One of my
favourite neighbourhoods is the kasbah,
because it still has the older charm of
traditional Marrakech without some
of the extreme busyness you might
experience in other areas. Be sure to try
tangia (not to be confused with tagine)
when you’re here; it’s the speciality
dish of Marrakech made with very slow
Words: Naomi Chadderton
roasted lamb, garlic and preserved

lemons in a clay pot. If you want a
keepsake to take back home, spices or
Moroccan tea glasses are easy to pack
and are sure to be used long after
you return.”
WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL
STAYCATION
Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel

Holiday like royalty at this quintessentially British beachfront hotel on Palm Jumeirah
THE ROOMS & SUITES THE FOOD THE ACTIVITIES

Tucked away in the modern heart of What better way to show someone you Start the new year as you mean to go on
the city, yet shielded from the hustle care than with a romantic candlelit with an energy-boosting workout at the
and bustle, the hotel's modern take on dinner on the beach? Savour a three- hotel's state-of-the-art gym. Next, get
a traditional British residence is sure course meal and a bottle of red or white some vitamin D by soaking up the gentle
to win you over. Every room has been under the twinkling stars as the balmy winter rays as you lounge around the
elegantly styled to marry centuries evening breeze washes over you (Dhs1,000 infinity pool with a good book in hand.
of age-old charm with contemporary per couple). Elsewhere at the property, Once you're suitably sunbathed, stretch
glamour. Request a room with glittering Great British Restarant, West 14th your legs by taking a stroll along the
Arabian Sea views and relax to the sound Steakhouse, Khyber and the sophisticated private beach and end your day on a fun
of the waves lapping the shore. Duke's Bar compete for your attention. note by floating along the lazy river.
To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or visit royalhideaway.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X SOFITEL DUBAI THE PALM
STAYCATION
Sofitel Dubai The Palm

Perfect the art de vivre at this French-inspired luxury resort on Palm Jumeirah

Bringing elegant French style to the Meaning "Welcome" in Polynesian, Water babies are in for a treat with a great
Middle East, this Polynesian-style Manava serves up world-class dishes in variety of activities on offer. Whether it's
resort is the antidote to the city’s a setting straight out of Paul Gaugin's jetting off on a boat excursion, spending
ubiquitous skyscraper hotels with its Tahitian paintings. But if you're up for a day admiring the cityscape on a pedal
tropical understated glamour. Being something with more zest and spice, boat or just lounging on the wide stretch
a pebble’s skim from the sea means Hong Loong blends timeless Chinese of private sandy beach, there's something
you get to sleep and wake up to the recipes to create explosive flavours for every taste. A day in the sun might
gentle swoosh of the waves crashing perfectly paired with tea. End your wear you down, but a quick trip to the spa
on the shore from any of the stylishly evening soaking up the sea view with a offers soothing treatments and massages
appointed rooms and suites. chilled drink at Laguna Lounge. that'll leave you in a tranquil bliss.
To find out more, call +971 4 455 6677 or visit all.accor.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI
STAYCATION
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai

Reach for the sky at the world’s tallest five-star hotel

Wake up in the clouds and revel in Foodies are spoilt for choice with Discover the shiniest gems the city has
stunning floor-to-ceiling views of the more than 14 dining venues offering a to offer with top attractions including
city's futuristic skyline or the turquoise selection of delicacies from around the The Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and Dubai
waters of the Arabian Gulf. Sleek suites world. Splurge on a unique sky-high Opera right around the corner. After a
boast marshmallow soft beddings dinner at Prime68 steakhouse before day out and about, pamper yourself back
and soundproof windows for a serene heading for a glitzy nightcap at Vault. at the hotel with a mini refresh at Saray
slumber, while Executive Rooms come To spice it up, the recently opened Spa. Soothing body massages, bespoke
with perks including complimentary Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra serves facials and holistic rituals draw upon
drinks, a continental breakfast and traditional recipes from ancient India the spa's Arabian heritage for a top-to-
afternoon tea in the lounge. with a contemporary twist. toe rejuvenating experience.
To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
Inspiration. Expertly crafted.
Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the
Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience.
The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants
and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and
17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular
Meeting Spaces.
JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai

jwmarriott.com/DXBJW
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com
1
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Zaya Nurai Island, Abu Dhabi
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THROUGH
THE LENS
Lago di Braies,
Italy
"Visiting this majestic lake had
been on my bucket list for years
since I first stumbled upon a photo
story in a magazine proclaiming
it one of Italy's most beautiful
lakes. Two flights and a three-
hour drive later, I finally arrived
at the Dolomites, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site. As soon as I
caught sight of the bright emerald
green waters, I was in awe of their
breathtaking beauty. In the early
light, the sight of the reflection of
the mountains on the lake and the
charming wooden rowing boats
was like a fairy tale."
Travel and photography

fan Melissa Ngo loves to
travel because: "it grounds
me and keeps me humble."
Follow her at @helloomelissa,
withlovemelissa.blog
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Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website,
inspire your next trip…
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The Knowledge. Staycations. Insider guides.
Read our handy Take a peek Check out our
how-tos, from inside these top in-the-know
getting to grips with hotels and resorts on travel edits of some
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helping kids beat jet then book your next holiday destinations
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Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite
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TERRACE SUITE SAGRADA FAMILIA

The One Barcelona, a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts
Rooms with a view don't come any grander than this; the room in question being a huge,
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or, better still, from the alfresco Jacuzzi, on a stunning terrace you can access from every room.
AT THE EDGE OF THE
WORLD, WHERE THE SKY
SWIMS IN SEA BLUE
th i s i s l an d s a n ctu ary
we l co m e s yo u wi th b re e ze
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a n d i n f i n i te vi e ws .
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YOUR E X T RAORDI NA RY STORY
Zaya Nurai Island Resort

#InAbuDhabi
visitabudhabi.ae
Flavors of Latin America
Latin American is the name of the game at Garden, where vibrant
street food from Mexico, Venezuela, Peru, Brazil and Argentina are
taking Dubai by storm. Get Latino fever with your favorite modern
riffs from tacos to arepas. We hear there’s even a Taco Society.
Complemented by fun and exciting beverages,
Garden’s dreamy outdoor setting on the bustling
Just
terrace will keep you coming back for more!
Opened Open Sunday - Thursday | 5:30pm - midnight
JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai

T +971.4.414.3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
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INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 105 | JANUARY 2020 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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FOUR FANTASTIC HOLIDAYS