You are on page 1of 28

JOURNAL OF MODERN HELLENISM 27-28 2009-2010

Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun

-HQQLIHU%DOO

7ZR DVVXPSWLRQV KDYH EHHQ PDGH LQ SDVW VWXG\ DQG


XQGHUVWDQGLQJ RI WKH PRQDVWLF KDELW RU schema, of the
%\]DQWLQH QXQ %HFDXVH %\]DQWLQH QXQV ZHUH QRW SDUW
RI RUGHUV DV ZHUH WKHLU VLVWHUV LQ WKH 0HGLHYDO :HVW VXFK
DV &DUPHOLWH QXQV LW KDV EHHQ DVVXPHG WKDW QXQV GLG
QRW ZHDU D XQLIRUP  7KH VHFRQG DVVXPSWLRQ LV WKDW QXQV
VLPSO\ ZRUH EODFN WXQLFV FORDNV DQG YHLOV LQ WKH DEVHQFH
RIVXFKDXQLIRUP1 This essay will bring together literary
DQG SLFWRULDO VRXUFHV WKDW GLVFXVV WKH schema, or habit, of
%\]DQWLQH ZRPHQ UHOLJLRXV  ,Q GRLQJ VR D SLFWXUH RI WKH
IHPDOH PRQDVWLF KDELW LQ %\]DQWLXP ZLOO HPHUJH WKDW KDG
DQLGHQWL¿DEOHXQLIRUPEXWZDVPRUHYDULHGWKDQKDVEHHQ
XQGHUVWRRGWRGDWH
%HIRUH WXUQLQJ WR FRQWHPSRUDU\ GHVFULSWLRQV RI WKH
JDUPHQWVWKHPVHOYHVLWLVLPSRUWDQWWRGH¿QHZKDWLVPHDQW
by nun LQ WKLV SDSHU  , ZLOO EH FDVWLQJ P\ QHW EURDGO\ WR
LQFOXGHQRWRQO\WKHFRHQRELWLFQXQZKRWRRNWKHYHLOLQD
IRUPDO FHUHPRQ\ EXW DOVR DVFHWLFV DQG RWKHU ZRPHQ ZKR
GHGLFDWHG WKHPVHOYHV WR D UHOLJLRXV OLIH HYHQ ZKHQ YRZV
ZHUHQRWWDNHQ6XFKUHOLJLRXVZRPHQGUHVVHGGLIIHUHQWO\
IURPOD\ZRPHQDQGWRRNFDUHWRGUHVVDSSURSULDWHO\IRUKHU
YRFDWLRQZKHWKHUWKDWZDVRQHRIDVFHWLFVROLWDU\YLUJLQRU
YHLOHGQXQ2+HUFORWKLQJV\PEROLFDOO\VXJJHVWHGWRWKHZHDUHU


 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

DVZHOODVWKHRXWVLGHZRUOGDZRPDQ¶VUHOLJLRXVYRFDWLRQDQG
PD\KDYHSURYLGHGVHFXULW\DQGUHVSHFWQRWW\SLFDOO\JUDQWHG
WRZRPHQ7KXVWKUHHW\SHVRIZRPHQZLOOEHDGGUHVVHG
LQWKLVVWXG\&RHQRELWLFQXQVZKROLYHGFRPPXQDOO\DQG
WRRNYRZVZRPHQZKRSUDFWLFHGVRPHIRUPRIDVFHWLFLVP
DQGFURVVGUHVVLQJQXQV:KLOHWKH¿UVWFDWHJRU\LVEHWWHU
XQGHUVWRRGWKHUHPDLQLQJWZRFDWHJRULHVDUHPRUHGLI¿FXOW
WRWDFNOH3DUWLFXODUO\LQWKHHDUO\%\]DQWLQHSHULRGZHKDYH
PXFK HYLGHQFH IRU ZRPHQ ± YLUJLQV IRUPHU SURVWLWXWHV
DQG PDWURQV ± WDNLQJ XS D OLIH LQ ZKLFK WKH\ UHQRXQFHG
PDOH  IDPLO\ PDWHULDO JRRGV DQG OLYHG DV YLUJLQV DORQH
RU LQ JURXSV  $GGLWLRQDOO\ WKHVH ZRPHQ RIWHQ SUDFWLFHG
DVFHWLFLVP LQ WKHLU UHVWULFWLYH HDWLQJ EDWKLQJ VOHHSLQJ
KDELWVDQGPRVWLPSRUWDQWO\IRUWKLVSDSHULQWKHFORWKLQJ
WKH\ZRUHVXFKDVFKDLQVKDLUVKLUWVDQGJLUGOHV:KLOHWKLV
JURXSGLGQRWWDNHYRZVWKHLUFRPPLWPHQWWRWKHUHOLJLRXV
OLIHLVKLJKOLJKWHGLQWKHOLYHVRIVDLQWVDQGLWLVFOHDUWKDW
DQDVFHWLFXQLIRUPRIVRUWVGHYHORSHG&URVVGUHVVLQJQXQV
ZRXOGVHHPPRUHDSSURSULDWHIRUDGLVFXVVLRQRIWKHPDOH
PRQDVWLF schema ZKLFK WKH\ GRQQHG WR HQWHU PRQDVWHULHV
IRU YDULRXV UHDVRQV VRPHWLPHV WR EH FORVHU WR D KXVEDQG
RU IDWKHU VRPHWLPHV IRU UHDVRQV RI VDIHW\  +RZHYHU WKH
VXEYHUVLYHFURVVGUHVVHULVRIWHQGHVFULEHGIRUZKDWWKH\do
notZHDUSURSHUIHPDOHUHOLJLRXVDWWLUH)XUWKHUPRUHWDOHV
RI FURVVGUHVVLQJ QXQV RIWHQ KLJKOLJKW D FOLPDFWLF PRPHQW
ZKHQWKHZRPDQ¶VWUXHVH[LVGLVFRYHUHGDQGDUHGUHVVLQJ
PRPHQWDV,FDOOLWHQVXHVZKHQVKHLVIRUFHGWRZHDUKHU
DSSURSULDWHO\JHQGHUHGFORWKLQJ6XFKVWRULHVRIWHQUHYHDO
ULFKGHVFULSWLRQVRIWKHDSSURSULDWHJDUEIRUQXQVZKLFKWKH
FURVVGUHVVHUDFFHSWVDWWKHHQG
7KHPDMRULW\RIHYLGHQFHIRU%\]DQWLQHIHPDOHPRQDVWLF
GUHVVLVOLWHUDU\DQGWKLVFDQEHFRPELQHGZLWKDVWXG\RIWKH
VXUYLYLQJSLFWRULDOHYLGHQFHIRUQXQV¶GUHVV5HJUHWWDEO\ZH
KDYHQRVXUYLYLQJJDUPHQWVWRVWXG\2XUOLWHUDU\HYLGHQFH
consists of six typikaRUIRXQGDWLRQGRFXPHQWVIRU%\]DQWLQH
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

FRQYHQWV ZKLFK DPRQJ PDQ\ RWKHU WKLQJV SUHVFULEH


WKH FORWKLQJ RI WKH QXQV LQ YDU\LQJ GHWDLO  $GGLWLRQDOO\
DQHFGRWHV FRQFHUQLQJ WKH ZRUOGO\ FORWKHV JLYHQ XS XSRQ
HQWHULQJ WKH FRQYHQW DQG FOXHV DERXW WKH UDQNLQJ RI QXQV
WKURXJK GUHVV FDQ VRPHWLPHV EH JOHDQHG IURP WKHVH
GRFXPHQWV   7KH HYLGHQFH RI WKH typika LV VXSSOHPHQWHG
JUHDWO\E\GHVFULSWLRQVRIQXQVLQWKHOLYHVRIVDLQWV+HUH
ZHKDYHWRVLIWWKURXJKWKHHPEHOOLVKPHQWVRIDXWKRUVZKR
PDNH WKH IHPDOH UHOLJLRXV SURWDJRQLVW DSSHDU HYHQ PRUH
SLRXVE\QRWLQJKHU³>XQZLOOLQJQHVV@WRWDNHDQHZJDUPHQW
KRRGRUVKRHV«´1HYHUWKHOHVVSDWWHUQVDQGQRUPVFDQEH
GHWHFWHG $ IHZ PHQWLRQV RI QXQV LQ RWKHU W\SHV RI WH[WV
VXFKDVKLVWRULHVDUHDOVRRIXVH
7KH SLFWRULDO UHFRUG LV GRPLQDWHG E\ LFRQV RI IDPRXV
VDLQWHG QXQV VXFK DV 7KHRGRVLD D QXQ RI WKH LFRQRFODVWLF
SHULRG ZKRVH LPDJH LV IHDWXUHG LQ QR IHZHU WKDQ ¿YH
LFRQV DW 0W 6LQDL DORQH ,Q LFRQV ZH VKRXOG XQGHUVWDQG
WKH LPDJH RI WKH IHPDOH PRQDVWLF DV D W\SH WKDW GHYHORSV
RYHU WKH FRXUVH RI WKH HPSLUH¶V KLVWRU\ DQG FDQ EH UHDGLO\
LGHQWL¿HG%XWGLVFUHHW³W\SHV´WKHFRHQRELWLFXUEDQQXQ
RUWKHGHVHUWGZHOOLQJDVFHWLFIRUH[DPSOH±DUHWHOOLQJLQ
WKHPVHOYHV  %\]DQWLQHV LGHQWL¿HG WKH SURYHUELDO VLWWHU RI
WKHVHSRUWUDLWVLQODUJHSDUWWKURXJKFORWKLQJDPDUNHUWKDW
WROGWKHYLHZHU³ZKR¶´LQWKHVDPHZD\WKDWSK\VLRJQRPLF
OLNHQHVVLVSULYLOHJHGWRGD\5HOLJLRXVZRPHQDUHDOVRVHHQ
LQWKHRFFDVLRQDOGRQRURUIXQHUDU\SRUWUDLWDVZHOO,QWKHVH
FDVHVWKHVXEMHFWVZHUHOLNHO\SDLQWHGFORVHWRWKHWLPHWKDW
WKH\OLYHG7KHUHIRUHWKHLUFORWKLQJPD\EHUHSUHVHQWHYHQ
JUHDWHUDFFXUDF\)LQDOO\KLVWRULFDOLPDJHVJHQUHVFHQHV
DQGRWKHUW\SHVRIORRVHO\QDUUDWLYHVFHQHVODUJHO\IRXQGLQ
PDQXVFULSWLOOXPLQDWLRQVRPHWLPHVSLFWXUHQXQVDVSDUWRI
WKHVFHQH
)URPWKHVHVRXUFHVZH¿QGWKDWQXQVZRUHDIHZEDVLF
JDUPHQWVWKHWXQLFFORDNDQGVRPHVRUWRIKHDGFRYHULQJ
a maphorion or skepe $ KRRG koukoulion, was another
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

DOWHUQDWLYHIRUKHDGJHDU7KHUHLVVRPHHYLGHQFHWKDWVRPH
QXQVZRUHDVFDSXODURUVWROHRIVRPHNLQGEXWLWLVXQFOHDULI
WKLVZDVDVWDQGDUGHYHQIRUFRHQRELWLFQXQV$VFHWLFVRIWHQ
DGGHGVSHFLDOJDUPHQWVVXFKDVKDLUVKLUWVWRWKHLURXW¿WVDV
SDUWRIWKHLUUHQXQFLDWLRQRIPDWHULDOJRRGV

The Nun’s Schema


7KHQXQ¶VKDELWLVPRVWRIWHQUHIHUUHGWRLQJHQHUDOWHUPV
XVLQJ HVSHFLDOO\ WKH WHUP schema $ schema PD\ KDYH
RULJLQDOO\ UHIHUUHG WR VLPSO\ WR D WXQLF ZRUQ E\ D PRQN
RU QXQ DV LW ZDV XVHG LQ HDUO\ SDWULVWLF ZULWLQJ  %XW LW
TXLFNO\FRPHVWREHXVHGIRUWKHHQWLUHKDELWDQGFDQDOVR
EHXQGHUVWRRGPHWDSKRULFDOO\WRUHIHUWRWKHPRQDVWLFOLIH
2FFDVLRQDOTXDOL¿HUVVXFKDV³EODFN´JLYHXVIXUWKHUFOXHV
DERXW WKH KDELW  %XW ZH DUH XVXDOO\ OHIW ZLWK RQO\ YDJXH
UHIHUHQFHV)RUH[DPSOHWKHVL[WKFHQWXU\6DLQW6\QFOHFWLFD
RI 3DOHVWLQH UHODWHV KHU DFTXLVLWLRQ RI WKH schema ³.QRZ
KRO\IDWKHUWKDW\RXZLOOKRQRUPHZLWKWKHKDELWDQGFORWKH
PHLQVDFNFORWKDQGSURYLGHPHZLWK\RXUERRNV$QGVRLW
KDSSHQHGIRUZKHQKHVDZP\GHVLUHDQGP\ZHHSLQJKH
VWRRGDQGJDYHPHWKHKRO\KDELWFORWKLQJPDGHRXWRIURXJK
IDEULF´7KH³VDFNFORWK´DWHUPIRUDQ\URXJKWXQLFLVLQ
WKLVFDVHVSHFL¿FDOO\PDGHRIKDLU7KHKDLUVKLUWGHPRQVWUDWHV
6\QFOHFWLFD¶VSLHW\WKURXJKWKLVDVFHWLFSUDFWLFHRIZHDULQJ
XQFRPIRUWDEOH FORWKLQJ DQG LW DGGLWLRQDOO\ LOOXVWUDWHV KHU
SRYHUW\7KHVHUHIHUHQFHVWRWKHschemaDUHRIWHQFRXFKHG
LQPHWDSKRUVDERXWDQLQGLYLGXDO¶VVDQFWLW\PDNLQJLWPRUH
GLI¿FXOWWRJOHDQDQ\FRQFUHWHLQIRUPDWLRQ)RUH[DPSOHLQ
the typikonRIWKH3KLODQWKURSRVFRQYHQWZULWWHQLQLW
is noted that the hegoumene, RUDEEHVVPXVWZHDUWKH³GLYLQH
DQG DQJHOLF KDELW´ ´$QJHOLF´ LV D WHUP XVHG IRU WRQVXUHG
PRQNVRUQXQVDQG³GLYLQH´IXUWKHUGHQRWHVDKLJKUDQNLQJ
PRQDVWLF±DQDEEHVVRUIRXQGHUEXWLWWHOOVXVQRWKLQJRI
ZKDWWKHJDUPHQWVORRNHGOLNH)XUWKHUPRUHWKHXVHRIWKHVH
WHUPV LV VR FRPPRQ DOVR EHLQJ DSSOLHG WR PDOH PRQDVWLF
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

GUHVVVRWKDWLWEHFRPHVDOPRVWPHDQLQJOHVV
0RUH FDQ EH XQGHUVWRRG DERXW WKH QXQ¶V schema IURP
UHIHUHQFHVWRVLQJOHJDUPHQWV$WXQLFZDVWKHEDVLFJDUPHQW
RIDQ\%\]DQWLQHFLWL]HQOD\RURWKHUZLVHDQGQXQVZHUHQR
H[FHSWLRQ7XQLFVDORQJZLWKFORDNVDUHPHQWLRQHGLQPRUH
GHVFULSWLRQVRIQXQV¶GUHVVWKDQDQ\RWKHUDUWLFOHRIFORWKLQJ
EXWWKHWXQLFVHHPVWRKDYHQRGLVWLQJXLVKLQJFKDUDFWHULVWLFV
ZKHQZRUQE\DQXQ,WZDVVRIDUDVZHNQRZWKHVDPHDV
DOD\ZRPDQ¶VWXQLFLQIRUP1XQV¶WXQLFVZHUHIXOOOHQJWK
DV ZDV WKH FDVH ZLWK PRVW ZRPHQ7KH PDMRULW\ RI QXQV
reportedly wore a himation, which is a general word for a
WXQLFChitonDQRWKHUJHQHUDOZRUGIRUWXQLFLVFRPPRQO\
XVHGLQGHVFULSWLRQVDVZHOO7KHVHWHUPVDOVRGHQRWHWXQLFV
IRU OD\ PRQDVWLF PHQ RU ZRPHQ ZH NQRZ WKDW FRXUWLHUV
VRPHWLPHVZRUHWKHhimation or chitonDVSDUWRIFHUHPRQLDO
GUHVV )RU H[DPSOH Chitonion WKH GLPLQXWLYH RI chiton
GHQRWHV D ZRPDQ¶V WXQLF LQ SDUWLFXODU  :KLOH JHQGHU
differences existed in clothing,11 no literary descriptions or
LPDJHVVXUYLYHWKDWFDQDFFXUDWHO\WHOOXVZKDWGHWDLOVRID
WXQLF GLIIHUHG E\ JHQGHU  0HQ¶V FORWKHV FRXOG EH VKRUWHU
EXWPRQDVWLFVPDOHDQGIHPDOHWHQGHGWRZHDUIXOOOHQJWK
JDUPHQWV12 A sticharionLVDQRWKHUJHQHUDOWHUPXVHGIRUD
WXQLFLQOD\VRFLHW\EXWDsticharionLVDOVRDORQJVOHHYHG
WXQLF ZRUQ E\ DQ\ FOHUJ\PDQ UDQNHG DW OHDVW DV D GHDFRQ
The ecclesiastical sticharionKDGGHWDLOVVXFKDVVWULSHVIRU
ELVKRSVZKLOHORZHUUDQNVZRUHSODLQRQHV,WVHHPVXQOLNHO\
WKDWQXQVZRUHDQHFFOHVLDVWLFDOIRUPRIWKHJDUPHQWEXWLW
PD\VXJJHVWDORQJXQEHOWHGWXQLFE\H[WHQVLRQ
A rhakos LV D WHUP XVHG E\ VRPH %\]DQWLQH DXWKRUV WR
GHQRWHDUDJJHGJDUPHQW*LYHQWKHZD\LQZKLFKWKHWHUPLV
RIWHQXVHGWKHrhakosZDVSUREDEO\DWXQLFDQGQRWDQRXWHU
JDUPHQW  7KH ZRUG DSSHDUV LQ GHVFULSWLRQV RI D EHJJDU¶V
JDUPHQW IRU H[DPSOH DQG GLG QRW KDYH WR EH VWULFWO\
PRQDVWLF :ULWHUV SUREDEO\ FRQVLGHUHG LW D XVHIXO WHUP WR
FRQYH\ WKH LGHD WKDW D JDUPHQW ZDV XVHG ROG FRDUVH DQG
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

SHUKDSVGLUW\$ZLGHUDQJHRIZRPHQDUHGHVFULEHGZHDULQJ
a rhakosIURPPDWURQVZKRWRRNXSDVFHWLFOLYHVRISLHW\
VXFKDV0DU\WKH<RXQJHU GFD DQGFRHQRELWLFQXQV
VXFK DV$WKDQDVLD RI$HJLQD OLYLQJ LQ WKH ¿UVW KDOI RI WKH
QLQWK FHQWXU\ GHPRQVWUDWLQJ WKDW ZRPHQ UHOLJLRXV ZRUH
WXQLFVWKDWZHUHGLVWLQJXLVKHGIURPWKRVHGRQQHGE\PXFK
RI%\]DQWLQHVRFLHW\LQWKHLUEHLQJKHDYLO\ZRUQ

Cloaks
&ORDNV mandyes FRPSULVHWKHVHFRQGFDWHJRU\RIJDUPHQWV
FRPPRQO\ZRUQE\QXQV&ORDNVZHUHSDUWLFXODUO\LPSRUWDQW
IRUZRPHQUHOLJLRXVIRUUHDVRQVRIPRGHVW\6DLQWV¶OLYHVRIWHQ
GHVFULEHPHQRZQLQJVLQJOHWXQLFVZKRKDGJLYHQDZD\WKHLU
FORDNVDQGRWKHUFORWKHVWRWKHSRRU:KLOHIHPDOHVDLQWV
DUHHTXDOO\FKDULWDEOH±$WKDQDVLDRI$HJLQDSURYLGHGIRRG
FORWKLQJDQG³RWKHUJLIWV´LQKHUFKDULWDEOHZRUN - they are
IDUOHVVOLNHO\WRUHQRXQFHDOOFORWKLQJVDYHIRUDWXQLFDVWKH
FORDN ZDV QHFHVVDU\ IRU SURSULHW\ 2I FRXUVH ZDUPWK ZDV
DQRWKHULPSRUWDQWUHDVRQIRUZHDULQJFORDNVDQGWKHtypika
WKDWPHQWLRQWKHPQRWHWKDWWKH\DUHIRUZLQWHURUPDGHRI
ZRROIRUVXI¿FLHQWSURWHFWLRQDJDLQVWWKHFROG,QWHUHVWLQJO\
WKHIDEULFRIRWKHUVJDUPHQWVLVUDUHO\PHQWLRQHGFORDNVDUH
E\FRQWUDVWRIWHQGHVFULEHGDVZRROHQ$VZLWKWXQLFVWKH
DSSHDUDQFHRILPSRYHULVKPHQWZDVLPSRUWDQWIRUPDQ\QXQV
,UHQHRI&KU\VREDODQWRQZKRVHVWRU\WDNHVSODFHLQWKHZDNH
RIWKH,FRQRFODVWLFSHULRGLQWKHQLQWKFHQWXU\IRUH[DPSOH
wore a tribonionPHDQLQJWKDWKHUFORDNZDVWKUHDGEDUH
+RZHYHUWKHHYLGHQFHVHHPVWRVXJJHVWWKDWDQXQ¶VFORDN
ZDV OLNH WKH FORDN RI DQ\ OD\SHUVRQ WKRXJK SHUKDSV PRUH
VRPEHULQFRORUDQGRIPHDQHUFORWK
,IOD\DQGPRQDVWLFWXQLFVDQGFORDNVZHUHRIWKHVDPH
IRUPWKHQLWLVOLNHO\WKDWKHDGJHDURURWKHULQVLJQLDRIQXQV
VXFKDVDVFDSXODUPXVWKDYHVLJQDOHGWKHLUPRQDVWLFLGHQWLW\
<HWZHKDYHIHZPHQWLRQVRIWKHVHSRVVLEOHLQVLJQLDZLWK
two of the six typika IRUFRQYHQWVDQGRQHYLWDPHQWLRQLQJ
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

DVFDSXODURUYHVW analabos WKDWZDVZRUQRYHUDWXQLFDV


WKHLQVLJQLDRIDQXQZKRKDVWDNHQIRUPDOYRZV/LWHUDU\
VRXUFHVNQRZQWRGDWHGHPRQVWUDWHWKDWQRVROLWDU\YLUJLQ
RU SLRXV PDWURQ ZRUH D VFDSXODU EXW LW KDV EHHQ DVVXPHG
WREHWKHSULPDU\VLJQL¿HURIWKHKDELWRIDFRHQRELWLFQXQ
DORQJZLWKWKHKHDGJHDU,WLVKRZHYHUGLI¿FXOWWRFRQ¿UP
KRZ FRPPRQO\ WKH VFDSXODU ZDV ZRUQ E\ %\]DQWLQH QXQV
DQGWKHUHLVQRHYLGHQFHWKDWLWZDVDUHTXLUHGJDUPHQWIRU
WKHKDELW
The pictorial record is of little help in identifying the
VSHFL¿F IRUP RI WKH QXQ¶V schema. ,Q PLQLDWXUH SDLQWLQJV
DQG FKXUFK GHFRUDWLRQ QXQV DUH W\SLFDOO\ GHSLFWHG LQ D
FRQFHDOLQJFORDNPDNLQJLWGLI¿FXOWWRGLVFHUQLIDVFDSXODU
ZDVZRUQXQGHUQHDWKThe Lincoln College Typikon 2[IRUG
/LQFROQ &ROOHJH 0V *UDHFXV    ¿J   IRU
H[DPSOHGHSLFWVQRYLFHVFKRLUVLVWHUVDQGWKHIRXQGHUVLQ
LWVJURXSSRUWUDLWRIWKHFRQYHQW¶VPHPEHUVKLS$FFRUGLQJ
to their typikonWKHPLGGOHDQGKLJKHVWUDQNLQJQXQVRIWKLV
FRQYHQWZHUHUHTXLUHGWRZHDUDVFDSXODUDQGWKHIRXQGDWLRQ
GRFXPHQWVSHFL¿FDOO\GHWDLOVWKDWWZRYHVWVZHUHWREHJLYHQ
WRHDFKQXQXSRQKHUWRQVXUH<HWWKHVFDSXODULVQRWYLVLEOH
LQDQ\RIWKHLPDJHVRIWKHLOOXVWUDWHGtypikon)RXURXWRIWKH
¿YH/DWH%\]DQWLQHLFRQVRIWKHVDLQWO\QXQ7KHRGRVLDIURP
0W6LQDLGHSLFWKHULQDVFDSXODUZKLFKSHHNVRXWEHQHDWK
KHUFORDN,QRQHEXVWLFRQLWLVLPSRVVLEOHWRWHOOIRUVXUH
EXWWKHFXIIVRI7KHRGRVLD¶VWXQLFZKLFKDUHZKLWHVXJJHVW
WKDWWKHEODFNFORWKEHQHDWKKHUFORDNLVDVHSDUDWHJDUPHQW
ZKLFK LV OLNHO\ WR EH D VFDSXODU 7KH DSSDUHQW DEVHQFH RI
WKH VFDSXODU LQ OLWHUDU\ GHVFULSWLRQV FDQ SDUDGR[LFDOO\ EH
DWWULEXWHGWRLWEHLQJZRUQRIWHQ0DQ\UHIHUHQFHVWRQXQV
UHIHUWRWKHLUZHDULQJRUWDNLQJWKHKDELWZKLFKPXVWKDYH
LQFOXGHG WKH VFDSXODU LI WKH typika DUH WR EH EHOLHYHG7KH
UHPDLQLQJtypika WKDWGRQRWVSHFLI\WKHZHDULQJRIDVFDSXODU
EXWLQVWHDGUHIHUHQFHWKHschemaLQJHQHUDOWHUPVLQWKHVH
GHVFULSWLRQVWKHVFDSXODUPXVWKDYHEHHQXQGHUVWRRGDVDQ
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

integral part of the schema


6LPLODUO\SURSHUKHDGJHDUPD\KDYHEHHQDVVXPHGWREH
part of the schema in the typika DVZHOODVLWLVPHQWLRQHG
OHVV RIWHQ WKDQ RQH PLJKW H[SHFW 1R LPDJH H[LVWV RI D
QXQ ZLWKRXW D FRYHUHG KHDG VR WKHUH LV QR TXHVWLRQ RI WKH
LPSRUWDQFH RI WKH KHDGJHDU WR WKH KDELW  6WRULHV RI FURVV
GUHVVLQJQXQVJUDSSOHZLWKWKHLVVXHRIZRPHQGUHVVHGDV
PRQNV ZDONLQJDURXQGZLWKXQFRYHUHGKHDGVDWWHVWLQJWR
WKHLPSRUWDQFHRIYHLOLQJ)RUH[DPSOHZKHQWKHODWH¿IWK
FHQWXU\6W0DWURQDRI3HUJHLVGLVFRYHUHGWREHDZRPDQ
VKHLVVXUHWRWHOOWKHDEERWWKDWVKHDOZD\VSXOOHGKHUFORDN
RYHUKHUKHDGLQFKXUFKIDNLQJDKHDGDFKHVRWKDWWKHRWKHU
PHQZRXOGQRW¿QGLWRGGWKDWVKHKHFRYHUHGKHUKLVKHDG
7KHDEERWWKHQ³«EDGHKHUUHVWLQRQHRIWKHPRQDVWHU\¶V
FHOOV DQG LQ FRPSOLDQFH ZLWK WKH XVDJH RI KHU VH[ WR WLH
URXQG KHU KHDG >DV D KHDG FRYHULQJ@ D SLHFH RI FORWK WKDW
KDSSHQHGWREHDWKDQG´211RWHWKDWJHWWLQJKHUKHDGFRYHUHG
VXSHUVHGHGWKHQHHGWRKDYHDSURSHUW\SHRIYHLO
MaphorionLVDJHQHUDOWHUPIRUYHLODQGOLNHPDQ\RI
WKHWHUPVGLVFXVVHGWKXVIDUFDQEHZRUQE\PRQDVWLFVRUWKH
ODLW\PDOHRUIHPDOH,WVHHPVWKDWLQPDQ\FDVHVWKHIRUP
RIWKHKHDGJHDULVQRWLPSRUWDQWDVORQJDVDQXQ¶VKDLUGLG
QRWVKRZ+RZHYHULQtypika and descriptions of coenobitic
QXQVWKHVSHFL¿FWHUPskepeLVXVHG7KH*UHHNZRUGσΚέ/d
OLWHUDOO\PHDQVSURWHFWLRQ,WZDVXVHGDWWLPHVWRUHIHUWR
SURWHFWLYHFORWKLQJVXFKDVKHDGRUIRRWZHDU22,QWHUHVWLQJO\
WKRXJK LW GRHV QRW DSSHDU WR EH XVHG WR GHVFULEH D QXQ¶V
KHDGJHDUXQWLOWKH/DWH%\]DQWLQHSHULRG3ULRUWRWKLVWLPH
WKHWHUPmaphorionZDVXVHGLQVWHDGZKLFKVXJJHVWVWKDWD
skepe LVDGLVWLQFWW\SHRIKHDGJHDUWKDWHYROYHVRYHUWLPH,Q
the typikaRIWKHFRQYHQWRI%HOEDLD(OSLVLQ&RQVWDQWLQRSOH
IRXQGHGDURXQGWKHDXWKRUGH¿QHVDskepeFRPSDULQJ
LWWRWKHOD\WXUEDQ phakiolion ZKLFKVXJJHVWVSHUKDSVWKDW
LW ZDV QRW D ZHOONQRZQ XVH RI WKH ZRUG The skepe is a
YHLO WKDW DSSHDUV WR KDYH D ZUDSSHG VRPHWLPHV VTXDULVK
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

VWUXFWXUHSODFHGRYHUWKHFURZQRIWKHKHDGDQGPD\KDYH
ZRXQGXQGHUWKHFKLQDVZHOO7KHQXQ7KHRGRVLDZHDUVWKLV
VDPHKHDGFRYHULQJLQWKH¿YHLFRQVDW0W6LQDLDQGLQWKH
%ULWLVK0XVHXP¶VTriumph of OrthodoxyLFRQ$OORIWKHVH
UHSUHVHQWDWLRQVDUH/DWH%\]DQWLQHRQHIURPWKHWKLUWHHQWK
FHQWXU\ DQG IRXU RI WKH IRXUWHHQWK DQG ODWHU FHQWXULHV ,Q
SRUWUDLWVRIZRPHQZKRDUHLGHQWL¿DEOHDVQXQVRQO\/DWH
%\]DQWLQHLPDJHVVKRZKHDGJHDUZLWKWKHPRUHYROXPLQRXV
WXUEDQOLNH VWUXFWXUH DV RSSRVHG WR D VLPSOH YHLO WKXV WKH
skepe LV D /DWH %\]DQWLQH GHYHORSPHQW LQ KHDGJHDU  7KH
maphorionZDVWKHDFFHSWHGKHDGJHDUIRUDQXQSULRUWRWKLV
WLPH DQG FRQWLQXHG WR EH XVHG IRU QRYLFHV WKURXJKRXW WKH
ODWHSHULRG
:KLOH LW LV QRW H[SOLFLWO\ VWDWHG LQ DQ\ typikon , SRVLW
WKDW WKH DGGLWLRQDO XVH RI WKH skepe HYROYHG DV SDUW RI D
UDQNLQJV\VWHPLQWKHGUHVVRIQXQV7KHskepe was worn
RQO\E\LQLWLDWHGQXQVDQGSHUKDSVHYHQWKHKLJKHVWUDQNLQJ
DPRQJ WKHP ZKLOH WKH maphorion UHPDLQHG IRU QRYLFHV
DQG ORZHUUDQNLQJ QXQV7KH JURXS SRUWUDLW LQ WKH Lincoln
College Typikon GHSLFWV D JURXS RI WKLUW\WZR QXQV 7KH
QRYLFHV LQ WKH IRUHJURXQG ZHDU ZKLWH EURZQ DQG EODFN
YHLOV maphoria, ZKRVH FRORU SRVVLEO\ GLVWLQJXLVKHV WKHLU
DJHDQGRUWKHLUUDQNV7KHPDMRULW\RIWKHQXQVLQWKHXSSHU
registers wear black skepe,Q%\]DQWLQHVRFLHW\LQJHQHUDO
WKHXVHRIKDWVEHFRPHVPRUHSUHYDOHQWRYHUWLPHDQGWKH
YDULHW\ RI KDWV LQFUHDVHV EHJLQQLQJ LQ WKH 0LGGOH SHULRG
,W LV HQWLUHO\ OLNHO\ WKDW WKH VKLIW LQ WKH KHDGJHDU IRU QXQV
FRLQFLGHVZLWKWKLVODUJHUIDVKLRQSKHQRPHQRQ,QWKH(DUO\
%\]DQWLQH SHULRG UHOLJLRXV ZRPHQ PD\ KDYH EHHQ HDVLO\
GLVWLQJXLVKHGIURPWKHODLW\E\WKHIDFWWKDWWKH\ZRUHYHLOV
$VKHDGFRYHULQJVEHFDPHPRUHFRPPRQLWZDVQHFHVVDU\
IRU IHPDOH PRQDVWLFV WR VWDQG RXW IURP OD\ZRPHQ LQ QHZ
ZD\V DGGLQJ JDUPHQWV VXFK DV WKH VFDSXODU DQG skepe to
WKHLUUHSHUWRLUHRIGUHVV
A koukoulion RU KRRG SURYLGHG DQRWKHU RSWLRQ IRU
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

FRHQRELWLF QXQV WR VHW WKHPVHOYHV DSDUW IURP OD\ZRPHQ


The koukoulionZDVDOVRZRUQE\PRQNVRIWHQZLWKDPDUN
RIRQH¶VPRQDVWHU\RQLW7KHPDOHYHUVLRQRIWKHJDUPHQW
ZDVLQGHSHQGHQWIURPWKHFORDNRURWKHUJDUPHQWDQGFRXOG
EH ZRUQ UHVWLQJ RQ WKH VKRXOGHUV RU SXOOHG RYHU WKH KHDG
7KHIHZOLWHUDU\UHIHUHQFHVWRQXQVZHDULQJkoukouliaPDNH
LWGLI¿FXOWWRGLVFHUQLIWKLVZDVDVWDQGDUGSDUWRIWKHschema
IRUZRPHQDQGLILWKDGWKHH[DFWVDPHIRUPDVWKHPHQ¶V
koukoulion7KHRGRUDRI7KHVVDORQLNL   wore one
DV SDUW RI KHU EXULDO FORWKHV :H FDQ DVVXPH WKDW VKH ZDV
EXULHGLQKHUschemaJLYHQWKHRWKHUJDUPHQWVPHQWLRQHG
the sticharion DQGVFDSXODU1RRWKHUKHDGJHDULVPHQWLRQHG
VRWKLVPLJKWKDYHEHHQDQDOWHUQDWLYHWRWKHskepe:HFDQ
JOHDQ IURP UHDGLQJ 3DOODGLXV WKDW LW ZDV FRPPRQ IRU DQ
HDUO\¿IWKFHQWXU\QXQWRZHDUDKRRGZKHQJRLQJRXWVLGH
WKHFRQYHQW³6KHZDVQHYHUZLOOLQJWRWDNHDQHZJDUPHQW
KRRGRUVKRHVEXWVDLGµ,KDYHQRQHHGIRUWKHPXQOHVV,
PXVWJRRXW¶7KHRWKHUVDOOJRRXWHYHU\6XQGD\WRFKXUFKIRU
&RPPXQLRQEXWVKHVWD\VEHKLQGLQKHUFHOOGUHVVHGLQUDJV
HYHUVLWWLQJDWKHUZRUN´7KLVSDVVDJHVXJJHVWVWKDWKRRGV
DUHIRURXWGRRUZHDUDQGPD\KDYHEHHQZRUQLQDGGLWLRQWR
rather than instead of, a skepe or maphorion

Asceticism
$OO QXQV SUDFWLFHG DVFHWLFLVP WR VRPH GHJUHH RU RWKHU
(YHQ FRHQRELWLFQXQV ZKR OLYHG LQ UHODWLYHFRPIRUW ZKHQ
FRPSDUHGWRGHVHUWGZHOOLQJVROLWDULHVUHQRXQFHGPDWHULDOV
JRRGV DQG UHVWULFWHG WKHLU HDWLQJ LQ VRPH IRUP 'UHVVLQJ
SURYLGHG D QDWXUDO YHQXH IRU DVFHWLF SUDFWLFHV ZKLFK LV
HVSHFLDOO\HYLGHQWLQWKHOLYHVRIVDLQWV7REHJLQZLWKQXQV
RIDQ\W\SHKDGIHZFORWKHV7URSHVDERXQGLQ6DLQWV¶/LYHV
UHODWHGWRWKHUHQXQFLDWLRQRIFORWKLQJ$SDUDGLJPRISRRU
GUHVVLQZKLFKWKHVDLQWULGVKHUVHOIRI¿QHFORWKLQJLQFOXGLQJ
MHZHOU\DQGWKHQGRQVUDJJHGFORWKHVH[LVWVLQPRVWvitae.
7\SLFDOO\WKHUHLVDOVRDPRPHQWRIWHQVLRQZKHUHDQRWKHU
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

JDUPHQW LV QHHGHG   IRU SURSHU EXULDO IRU SUHVHQWDWLRQ WR


DQ RXWVLGHU RU EHFDXVH WKH VDLQWV¶ UDJJHG JDUPHQWV KDG
EHHQ GHVWUR\HG GXH WR ORQJ ZHDU$W WKLV SRLQW WKH DXWKRU
GUDPDWLFDOO\QRWHVWKDWWKHVDLQWRQO\KDVWKHFORWKHVRQKHU
EDFN ,UHQH RI &KU\VREDODQWRQ OLYLQJ LQ WKH QLQWK FHQWXU\
VHUYHVDVDQH[DPSOH
7KH QHFNODFHV DQG MHZHOV VKH >,UHQH@ ZRUH DQG DOO
RWKHUWKLQJVWKDWVKHNHSWDVLPSHULDOJLIWVHYHUVLQFH
VKHKDGEHHQOLEHUDOO\UHFHLYHGE\WKH(PSUHVVDOO
WKHVHVKHZLOOLQJO\HLWKHUGLVWULEXWHGWRWKHSRRUDQG
WRKHURZQVHUYDQWVRUEURXJKWWRWKHFRQYHQWDVDQ
RIIHULQJWR*RG7KHQVKHKDGKHUKDLUVKRUQDQG
ZLWK LW ZDV VKRUQ WRR DOO KHU PXQGDQH DQG HDUWKO\
FRQFHUQ  6KH DOVR FKDQJHG KHU GUHVV DUUD\LQJ
herself in a ragged hair shirt, as she wished to wear
RXWWKDWWHQGHUDQGGHOLFDWHERG\WRKDYHDVRXOWKDW
ZDVUHQHZHGDQGÀRXULVKHG«

/DWHUWKHVWRU\FRQWLQXHV

%XWDVWKH6DLQWGLGQRWSRVVHVVDQRWKHUJDUPHQWEXW
WKHRQHWKDWWKHÀDPHKDGFRQVXPHGWRJHWKHUZLWKKHU
SUHFLRXVÀHVKWKHODXGDEOHGLVFLSOHZHQWDZD\DQG
EULQJLQJDJDUPHQWRIKHURZQGUHVVHGKHUVSLULWXDO
PRWKHU)RULWZDVDOVRDSDUWRIKHUYLUWXHVQRWWR
SRVVHVVDVHFRQGGUHVVEXWRQFHD\HDUDW(DVWHURQ
WKHJUHDW+RO\7KXUVGD\WROHDYHRIIWKHRQHVKHKDG
been wearing all the year and don a new one, handing
WKHROGJDUPHQWRYHUWRVRPHSRRUZRPDQ

7KHSUDFWLFHRIZHDULQJRQHVHWRIFORWKHVXQWLOWKH\DUHZRUQ
JRHVEDFNWRWKHYHU\EHJLQQLQJVRIPRQDVWLFLVPDVVHHQIRU
H[DPSOH LQ WKH ZULWLQJV RI 6KHQRXWH FD   The
ZRPHQ LQ WKLV HDUO\ PRQDVWHU\ DV WKH PHQ JDYH XS WKHLU
FORWKLQJWRWKHGRXEOHPRQDVWHU\XSRQHQWUDQFHDQGLQUHWXUQ
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

ZHUHJLYHQRQHRXW¿WWKDWZDVOLNHHYHU\RQHHOVH¶V7KHLQWHQW
KHUHZDVQRWVRPXFKWRGHVLJQDWHWKDWWKH\KDGFKRVHQDOLIH
RISRYHUW\EXWUDWKHUWRDYRLGMHDORXV\³«LJQRUDQWSHRSOH
PD\QRWEHLQKDELWHGE\FRYHWRXVQHVVIRUDEHDXWLIXOJDUPHQW
RUDFRYHULQJRUDFORDNRUDQ\WKLQJOLNHWKLVDQGVRWKDWQR
RQHVKDOOVD\WKDWDQ\WKLQJDVWKHLURZQSRVVHVVLRQ´ This
SUDFWLFHZDVFRQWLQXHGLQRUJDQL]HGPRQDVWLFFRPPXQLWLHV
as typika GHPRQVWUDWH  0RQDVWLF GRFXPHQWV UHIHU WR UXOHV
WRFXUEMHDORXVLHVEHWZHHQPRQNVDQGQXQV+RZHYHUWKH
JUHDWHUHPSKDVLVRQYRZVRISRYHUW\LQtypikaZKHQFRPSDUHG
ZLWK HDUO\ PRQDVWLF ZULWLQJV VXFK DV WKDW RI 6KHQRXWH
VXJJHVWWKDWWKHDSSHDUDQFHRISRYHUW\EHFDPHLQFUHDVLQJO\
LPSRUWDQW ,Q WKH typikon RI 3KLODQWKURSRV FD   the
DXWKRU ,UHQH /DVNDULQD 3DODLRORJLQD ZKR DFNQRZOHGJHV
FRS\LQJ WKH WZHOIWKFHQWXU\ UXOH RI Kecharitomene, states
WKDW WKH YRZV RI SRYHUW\ ZHUH ³RPLWWHG«EHFDXVH RI WKHLU
OHQJWK´
'ROLQJRXWQHZFORWKHVPHUHO\RQFHD\HDUZDVXQGRXEWHGO\
H[WUHPH DQG PXVW QRW DOZD\V KDYH EHHQ WKH SUDFWLFH  7KH
FRQYHQWV DW /LSV DQG $QDUJ\URL ERWK typika GDWHG 
 IRUH[DPSOHERWKJDYHRXWFORWKHVVHDVRQDOO\0RVWRI
WKHFRQYHQWVPHQWLRQEDQVRQSHUVRQDOSURSHUW\LQWKHLUUXOHV
$VVRPDQ\ZRPHQMRLQHGFRQYHQWVDIWHUKDYLQJKDGIXOOOLYHV
RIWHQDIWHUEHLQJZLGRZHGRULQOHVVOLNHO\FDVHVGLYRUFHGWKH
SUDFWLFH RI JLYLQJ XS RQH¶V FORWKHV ZDV D QHFHVVDU\ VWHS WR
NHHSXQLIRUPLW\LQWKHFRQYHQW0DQ\RIWKHtypika¶VUXOHV
KRZHYHUSRLQWWRWKLVQRWDOZD\VEHLQJWKHFDVH)RUH[DPSOH
the typikon RIWKHFRQYHQWRIKecharitomene GDWHG 
VSHFL¿HV WKDW EHTXHVWV FRXOG RQO\ EH XVHG WR DFFRPPRGDWH
PRUH QXQV DQG FRXOG QRW JR WRZDUGV EHWWHULQJ WKH OLIHVW\OH
RIWKHLQGLYLGXDO6LPLODUO\WKH/LSVtypikon noted that only
OLWXUJLFDOFORWKVFRXOGEHDFFHSWHGDVJLIWV7KHLPSOLFDWLRQLQ
WKHVHUXOHVLVWKDWQXQVWULHGWRREWDLQH[WUDFORWKLQJWKURXJK
JLIWV IURP WKH RXWVLGH ZRUOG 7KH DVFHWLF UHQXQFLDWLRQ RI
FORWKLQJ WKHUHIRUH ZDV PRVW OLNHO\ DQ LGHDO QRW DOZD\V
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

IROORZHGE\WKRVHZKRFRXOGDIIRUGWREHQGWKHUXOHV
*RLQJEDFNWRWKHSDUDGLJPDWLFH[DPSOHRI,UHQHDQRWKHU
FRPPRQWKUHDGLQWKHvita LVWKHKDLUVKLUW,UHQHWRRNRQWKLV
JDUPHQWWR³ZHDURXW>KHU@WHQGHUDQGGHOLFDWHERG\´ The
KDLUVKLUWZRUQHLWKHUXQGHUQHDWKWKHWXQLFRULQSODFHRIWKH
WXQLFZDVWKHDVFHWLF¶VJDUPHQWRIFKRLFH$KDLUVKLUWZDV
SUREDEO\ PRUH DNLQ WR D SHOW ± KRW VFUDWFK\ XQSURFHVVHG
ZRROSUREDEO\IURPDJRDWUDWKHUWKDQDVKHHSZKLFKZHUH
FRPPRQO\EUHGIRU¿QHUVRIWHUZRRO6W$WKDQDVLDRI$HJLQD
ZRUHDQ³LQQHUJDUPHQW>RI@JRDWKDLU³VKLUW´ZKLFKLUULWDWHG
KHUÀHVKZLWKLWVURXJKQHVVDQGKHURXWHU³FORWKLQJ´ZDVD
UDJJHG JDUPHQW RI VKHHS ZRRO DQG WKLV ³IRUPHU JDUPHQW´
ZDV WKH XQVHHQ RQH DQG ZDV FRYHULQJ KHU VDFUHG ERG\´
6DFNFORWK  FRDUVH XQG\HG ZRRO  ZDV DOVR FRPPRQ DQG
VHUYHGDVLPLODUIXQFWLRQDVWKHKDLUVKLUW0RUHRIWHQWKDQQRW
KDLUVKLUWVZHUHZRUQXQGHUWKHWXQLFLQRUGHUQRWWRSURPRWH
DFHUWDLQSULGHLQRQH¶VDVFHWLFSUDFWLFH:KHQZRUQDORQHLW
ZDVWKHQXQ¶VRQO\JDUPHQWDQGDPRUHH[WUHPHH[SUHVVLRQ
RISLHW\)RUH[DPSOH3DOODGLXV¶Lausiac History of the sixth
FHQWXU\GHVFULEHV6\QFOHFWLFDRI3DOHVWLQH¶VJDUPHQWRIKDLUDV
FRPSULVLQJKHUKDELWRQLWVRZQ
2WKHUDVFHWLFSUDFWLFHVZHUHPRUHH[WUHPHDQGZHUHOHVV
FRPPRQ IRU ZRPHQ WKDQ PHQ 7KH ZHDULQJ RI FKDLQV DQG
UHVWULFWLYH JLUGOHV RU EHOWV IRU H[DPSOH 6HOIPRUWL¿FDWLRQ
ZDVWKHGRPDLQRIPHQVRLWLVQRWVXUSULVLQJWKDWFKDLQV
JLUGHGORLQVDQGWKHOLNHZHUHUDUHLQWKHGUHVVRI%\]DQWLQH
QXQV DQG IHPDOH DVFHWLFV 1HYHUWKHOHVV WKH\ ZHUH XVHG
IURPWLPHWRWLPHDFFRUGLQJWRvitae7KHRGRUDRI.DLVDULV
 ZHDUVFKDLQVIRUH[DPSOH6W0DWURQDRI3HUJH
OLYLQJDWWKHHQGRIWKH¿IWKFHQWXU\ZRUHDOHDWKHUEHOW³
KH >WKH$EERWW %DVVLDQRV@ GLG QRW JLYH KHU ZRROHQ JLUGOHV
DQGYHLOVVXFKDVZRPHQDUHDFFXVWRPHGWRXVHEXWZLGH
GDUN OHDWKHU PHQ¶V JLUGOHV DQG ZKLWH PHQ¶V FORDNV ZKLFK
WKH\ZHDUFRQVWDQWO\´:KLOHWKHvita describes Matrona as
¿UVWGUHVVLQJDVDPRQNGXULQJKHUVWD\LQDPDOHPRQDVWHU\
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

DW D ODWHU SRLQW LQ KHU OLIH VKH ZHDUV WKHVH ³PHQ¶V JLUGOHV
DQG ZKLWH PHQ¶V FORDNV´ ZKHQ VHUYLQJ DV WKH DEEHVV RI D
FRQYHQW2IFRXUVHWKHOHDWKHUDVRSSRVHGWRZRROJLUGOH
XQGHUOLQHV KHU PRUH IHUYHQW DVFHWLF SUDFWLFH  %HOWV ZHUH
WLJKWHQHG WR KHOS ZLWK DEVWDLQLQJ IURP IRRG DQG SRVVLEO\
DOVRRQDQLVPDOWKRXJKPDVWXUEDWLRQZDVFRQVLGHUHGODUJHO\
WREHDPDOHSUREOHP(YDJULXV FDFD GHVFULEHV
WKHV\PEROLVPRIWKHEHOW³7KHEHOWZKLFKWKH\>WKHPDOH
PRQNV@ZHDUDERXWWKHLUORLQVVLJQL¿HVWKHLUUHMHFWLRQRIDOO
LPSXULW\DQGSURFODLPVWKDWµLWLVDJRRGWKLQJIRUPDQQRW
WRWRXFKDZRPDQ¶´7KH&DQRQVRI0DUXWDRIWKHHDUO\
¿IWKFHQWXU\ GLFWDWHG WKDW PRQNV VOHHS ZLWK JLUGOHV RQ WR
SUHYHQWPDVWXUEDWLRQ:RROJLUGOHVPRUHRIWHQZRUQE\
ZRPHQDFFRUGLQJWR0DWURQD¶VELRJUDSKHUSUREDEO\VHUYHG
WKHVHVDPHIXQFWLRQVDOEHLWLQDJHQWOHUPDQQHU
6KRHVDUHVRPHZKDWRIDP\VWHU\EHFDXVHWKH\DUHUDUHO\
VHHQ LQ SLFWRULDO LPDJHV  1XQV LI WKH\ DUH UHSUHVHQWHG LQ
IXOO¿JXUHDUHFRYHUHGE\ORQJWXQLFVIDOOLQJWRWKHJURXQG
6DQGDOV ZKHQ WKH\ DUH GHVFULEHG LQ OLWHUDU\ VRXUFHV DUH
PHQWLRQHGEXWZLWKQRFOXHVDVWRWKHIRUPRIWKHVDQGDO7KH
IRXUWKFHQWXU\6DLQW0DFULQDLVGHVFULEHGLQ³ZRUQVDQGDOV´
ZLWKRXWIXUWKHUFRPPHQW A few typika refer generally to
VKRHV KRZHYHU VXJJHVWLQJ WKDW VDQGDOV ZHUH QRW WKH RQO\
RSWLRQ 7KH FRQYHQW RI %HOEDLD (OSLV LQ &RQVWDQWLQRSOH
SURYLGHG LWV QXQV ZLWK WZR QHZ SDLUV RI VKRHV D \HDU WKDW
ZHUH³VXLWDEOHIRUZRPHQOLNH\RXUVHOYHV´7KLVPXVWUHIHU
WRVKRHVWKDWZHUHPRGHVWLQVRPHZD\LQVW\OHFRYHUDJH
PDWHULDO RU VRPH FRPELQDWLRQ WKHUHRI  ,Q WKH HDVWHUQ
0HGLWHUUDQHDQVDQGDOVZRXOGQRWKDYHEHHQSUDFWLFDO\HDU
URXQGVRZDUPWKPXVWKDYHEHHQDFRQVLGHUDWLRQDVZHOO
7KHQXQVDWWKH/LSVFRQYHQWDOVRLQ&RQVWDQWLQRSOHZHUH
JUDQWHG D JHQHURXV WKUHH SDLUV RI VKRHV D \HDU  7ZR SDLU
ZHUHVKRHVVLPSO\WRSURWHFWWKHIHHWEXWWKHWKLUGSDLUZDV
³ORRVHUDQGKLJKHQRXJKWRFRYHUWKHOHJV«´/HJJLQJVWLHG
MXVW EHORZ WKH NQHH ZLWK VOLSSHU VROHV UDWKHU WKDQ OHDWKHU
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

RQHVDUHNQRZQDVSDUWRIHFFOHVLDVWLFDOGUHVV These types


RI OHJJLQJV ZKLFK PD\ KDYH EHHQ ZRUQ E\ ODLW\ DV ZHOO
DUH ORRVH DQG KLJK ¿WWLQJ WKH SUHVFULSWLRQ RI WKH typika
)XUWKHUPRUHOHDWKHUGXHWRLWVH[SHQVHLVQRWOLNHO\WRKDYH
EHHQLQWHQGHGKHUHLQDGGLWLRQWKHDXWKRUZRXOGSUREDEO\
KDYH WHUPHG WKHP ³ERRWV´  LI KH ZHUH UHIHUULQJ WR OHDWKHU
VKRHVWKDWFRYHUHGWKHOHJ.

Form and Meaning of the Schema


&RORULVDFUXFLDOHOHPHQWLQIXOO\XQGHUVWDQGLQJWKHQXQ¶V
KDELW&RORUZDVOLNHO\WRKDYHEHHQWKHSULPDU\IDFWRULQ
GLVWLQJXLVKLQJ D QXQ¶V schema IURP D OD\ZRPDQ¶V FORDN
DQG WXQLF 7KH DVVXPSWLRQV PDGH E\ VFKRODUV DERXW FRORU
KDYH EOLQGHG XV IURP WKH IXOO UDQJH RI FKRLFHV LQ KDELW
)XUWKHUPRUHFRORUUHODWHVLQVRPHFDVHVWRWKHPHDQLQJRI
the schema
7KH YDVW PDMRULW\ RI VXUYLYLQJ LFRQV DQG RWKHU SDLQWHG
LPDJHVRIQXQVGHSLFWWKHschema as black or at least dark
EURZQRUEOXH3DVWDXWKRUVZULWLQJRQWKHWRSLFRIWKHQXQ¶V
schema KDYH WLPH DQG DJDLQ VWDWHG WKDW QXQV¶ KDELWV ZHUH
EODFN ZLWKRXW TXDOL¿FDWLRQ This is reinforced by certain
OLWHUDU\ VRXUFHV DQG VXUHO\ PDQ\ JDUPHQWV ZRUQ E\ QXQV
DOWKRXJKPD\EHQRWWKHHQWLUHKDELWZHUHEODFN6SHDNLQJRI
(PSHURU5RPDQRV¶ U ¿UVWZLIHEHIRUHKHPDUULHG
WKH(PSUHVV=RH U 0LFKDHO3VHOORV FD 
IRUH[DPSOHGHVFULEHVKHUEHLQJIRUFHGLQWRDFRQYHQWDQG
WKXV IUHHLQJ KHU KXVEDQG WR PDUU\ WKH (PSUHVV ³+HU KDLU
ZDVFXWRIIVKHZDVFORWKHGLQWKHQXQ¶VUREHRIEODFNDQG
DGPLWWHGLQWRWKHQXQQHU\ZKLOHKHUKXVEDQGZDVWDNHQXS
WRWKHSDODFHWRZHGLQWRWKHLPSHULDOIDPLO\´2QO\WZR
typika SUHVFULEH WKH FRORU RI JDUPHQWV 7KH %HOEDLD (OSLV
typikonUHTXLUHGDEODFNhimation RYHUDZKLWHXQGHUWXQLF 
7KH QHDUO\ FRQWHPSRUDU\ /LSV FRQYHQW KRZHYHU UHTXLUHG
VLPSO\ZKLWHWXQLFV1HLWKHUtypikon VSHFL¿HVDFRORUIRUWKH
QXQ¶VFORDNRQO\QRWLQJWKDWWKH\EHPDGHRIZRROZKLFK
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

LPSOLHV WKDW WKH ZRRO ZDV XQG\HG  8QG\HG ZRRO ZRXOG


YDU\IURPRIIZKLWHWREURZQRUJUD\%ODFNYHU\OLNHO\MXVW
PHDQW GDUN LQ FRORU DV SXUH EODFN ZDV H[WUHPHO\ GLI¿FXOW
WR DFKLHYH LQ WKH G\LQJ SURFHVV DQG H[SHQVLYH WR PDNH
0DQ\QXQVZKRPZHQRZVHHSLFWXUHGLQDUWZHDULQJGDUN
EURZQ KXQWHU JUHHQ PLGQLJKW EOXH RU HYHQ GHHS SXUSOH
FORDNVPD\KDYHEHHQGHVFULEHGDVZHDULQJEODFNE\WKHLU
FRQWHPSRUDULHV
'LJJLQJ IXUWKHU LQWR WKH OLWHUDU\ DQG SLFWRULDO UHFRUG
KRZHYHU D ZLGHU UDQJH RI FRORU HPHUJHV$Q H[DPLQDWLRQ
RIQXQV¶SRUWUDLWVGHPRQVWUDWHVWKHYDULHW\LQFRORUFKRLFH
HVSHFLDOO\LQWKHFORDN$QLFRQIURPWKHVHFRQGKDOIRIWKH
WKLUWHHQWK FHQWXU\ UHSUHVHQWLQJ 6W 3KHYURQLD QRZ DW 0W
6LQDL GHSLFWV KHU LQ D EURZQ FORDN 6KH ZHDUV D UHGGLVK
EURZQFORDNRYHUDZKLWHWXQLFLQDQLFRQZLWKWKH9LUJLQIURP
QRZDWWKH/RXYUH7KHQXQVLQWKH/LQFROQ7\SLNRQ
ZHDUDEOXLVKEODFNFORDN,QDODWHWKLUWHHQWKFHQWXU\IUHVFR
IRXQG LQ WKH 9ODFKHUQD PRQDVWHU\ LQ $UWD GHSLFWLQJ WKH
SURFHVVLRQRIWKH+RGHJHWULDLFRQZKDW,DUJXHDUHDJURXS
RI QXQV VWDQG RQ WKH OHIW LQ UHG FORDNV ZLWK ZKLWH skepe,
OHGE\WKHLUDEEHVVGUHVVHGLQEULJKWEOXH)LQDOO\DGRXEOH
VLGHG LFRQ ODWH IRXUWHHQWKHDUO\ ¿IWHHQWK FHQWXU\ LFRQ ZLWK
6W$QDVWDVLDWRGD\LQWKH+HUPLWDJHVKRZV$QDVWDVLDLQD
rich green maphorion.
'RYHWDLOLQJQLFHO\ZLWKWKHYLVXDOVRXUFHVZULWHUVRIWKH
GD\PHQWLRQWKHVDPHZLGHYDULHW\RIFRORUV6W$WKDQDVLDRI
Aegina wore sheep’s wool, which is generally light-colored
LQLWVQDWXUDOVWDWH$WRQHSRLQWLQKHUVWRU\VKHLVGUHVVHG
E\KHUIHOORZQXQVLQDJUD\JDUPHQW3DWHUPXWKLRVLQWKH
IRXUWKFHQWXU\LVDPRQJWKH¿UVWWRRXWOLQHZKDWWKHPRQDVWLF
KDELWFRQVLVWHGRIDKRRGVOHHYHOHVVWXQLFEHOWHGZLWKOLQHQ
FORWK DQG D VKHHSVNLQ 7KH 3DFKRPLDQ UXOHV DOVR RI WKH
IRXUWK FHQWXU\ DUH VLPLODU :KLOH WKHVH UHIHUHQFH HDUO\
(J\SWLDQPRQNVPRVWRIWKHVH¿UVW(J\SWLDQFRPPXQLWLHV
KDGPRQNVDVZHOODVQXQV$WWKLVWLPHDQGSODFHZHFDQ
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

DVVXPH WKDW WKH ZRPHQ ZHUH ZHDULQJ WKH VDPH JDUPHQWV


DV WKH PHQ IRU QR GLVWLQFWLRQV ZHUH PDGH ZKHQ ZRPHQ
DUH PHQWLRQHG LQ WKH WH[WV 1DWXUDO XQG\HG IDEULFV ZHUH
LQH[SHQVLYH LQ NHHSLQJ ZLWK YRZV RI SRYHUW\ DQG PRUH
HDVLO\ PDGH $GGLWLRQDOO\ WKH XQG\HG JDUPHQW LV OLJKW LQ
FRORU ZKLFK LV PRUH DSSURSULDWH IRU WKH GHVHUW FOLPHV RI
(J\SWZKHUHWKH¿UVWschemaGHYHORSHG
7KH ZKLWH WXQLFV RI WKH QXQV DW WKH /LSV FRQYHQW
PHQWLRQHGHDUOLHUFRXOGSRLQWWRDQRWKHUPHDQLQJDVFULEHGWR
WKHKDELWWKDWRISXULW\,QWKH¿UVWHLJKWGD\VDIWHUEDSWLVP
LW ZDV FXVWRPDU\ WR ZHDU ZKLWH UREHV The white robes
RI UHOLJLRXV ZRPHQ PD\ KDYH VLJQL¿HG EHLQJ µERUQ DJDLQ¶
ZLWKRXWVLQDVLWGLGIRUWKHQHZO\EDSWL]HG$GXOWEDSWLVP
JDYHZD\WRLQIDQWEDSWLVPVLQWKHVHYHQWKFHQWXU\EXWWKH
DVVRFLDWLRQEHWZHHQWKHFRORUZKLWHDQGDVLQOHVVVWDWHVXUHO\
GLGQRWGLVDSSHDU)RUH[DPSOHPXFKLVPDGHLQWKHVWRU\
RIWKHSLRXVKRXVHZLIH0DU\WKH<RXQJHUDERXWWKHVDLQW¶V
UHQXQFLDWLRQRIKHUEULJKWPXOWLFRORUHGGUHVVHV$WEXULDO
VKHRQO\KDGRQHZKLWHOLQHQJDUPHQWUHPDLQLQJGHVSLWHKHU
ZHDOWKKDYLQJJLYHQDOORIKHURWKHUJDUPHQWVDZD\WRWKH
SRRU$IWHUKHUGHDWKVKHDSSHDUVWRDPDOHDUWLVWOLYLQJDV
DUHFOXVHDQGDVNVKLPWRSDLQWKHUSRUWUDLW,QLWZHOHDUQ
VKHZHDUVD³ZKLWHJDUPHQWDQGDUHGKHDGGUHVV´ which we
FDQDVVXPHZDVKHUVWDQGDUGJDUELQKHUFDSDFLW\DVDKRO\
ZRPDQEHFDXVHKHUSRUWUDLWZDVHDVLO\UHFRJQL]HGZKHQVHQW
EDFNWRKHUWRZQRI9L]\HZKHUHVKHKDGEHFRPHIDPRXVIRU
KHUPLUDFOHV:KLWHKHUHVWDQGVLQRSSRVLWLRQWRKHUFRORUIXO
GUHVVHVVXJJHVWLQJDSXULW\EH¿WWLQJKHUSLRXVSRVLWLRQ
7KH UHG KHDGGUHVV ZRUQ E\ 6W 0DU\ WKH<RXQJHU PD\
SRLQWWRKHUQREOHVWDWXVDV-DURVODY)ROGDKDVVXJJHVWHG
)RUH[DPSOH6W0DULQDWKHWKLUGFHQWXU\PDUW\UHGYLUJLQ
LVDOZD\VSLFWXUHGLQDUHGYHLODVVHHQIRUH[DPSOHLQWKH
WKLUWHHQWK FHQWXU\ LFRQ RI KHU IURP WKH 0HQLO FROOHFWLRQ
¿J   RU LQ PRVDLF LQ WKH QDUWKH[ RI +RVLRV /RXNDV
.DWKROLNRQ IURP WKH ODWH WHQWK RU HDUO\ HOHYHQWK FHQWXU\
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

$QRWKHUWKLUGFHQWXU\DULVWRFUDWLFQXQ6W$JDWKDZKRZDV
IURPDQLPSRUWDQWIDPLO\LQ6LFLO\DOVRZHDUVDUHGYHLOLQ
KHUHOHYHQWKFHQWXU\SRUWUDLWDW+RVLRV/RXNDV
6W0DU\WKH<RXQJHU¶VIDWKHUEURWKHUDQGKXVEDQGVHUYHG
LQ WKH PLOLWDU\ DQG KHU KXVEDQG ZDV NQRZQ IRU KLV HIIRUWV
DJDLQVWWKH%XOJDULDQV%XWKHUvitaGRHVQRWVXJJHVWWKDW
VKHLVKLJKERUQE\%\]DQWLQHVWDQGDUGVVRZHPD\FRQVLGHU
DQRWKHUPHDQLQJIRUWKHUHGYHLOWKDWRIDEULGHRI&KULVW
,QWKHIRXUWKFHQWXU\ZKHQ6W0DFULQD¶VEURWKHU*UHJRU\
GUHVVHGKHUIRUEXULDOKHFKRVHDUHGGUHVVWKHFRORURID
EULGHEH¿WWLQJKHUVWDWXVDVµEULGHRI&KULVW¶WRZHDUEHQHDWK
DEODFNFORDN7KHPDQ\SRUWUDLWVRIQXQVLQZKLFKWKH\ZHDU
UHGYHLOVSHUKDSVUHIHUVWREULGDOJDUPHQWVUDWKHUWKDQWKHLU
DULVWRFUDWLF XSEULQJLQJ$ PHQRORJLXP LFRQ IRU$XJXVW RI
FDQRZLQWKHFROOHFWLRQRI6W&DWKHULQH¶V0RQDVWHU\
DW 6LQDL GHSLFWVVL[IHPDOHVDLQWVGUHVVHGDVQXQV IRXURI
WKHP LQ UHG KHDGGUHVVHV 6W 0DULQD ZKRVH PDUW\UGRP LV
FHOHEUDWHGRQ$XJXVWLVRQHRIWKRVHZHDULQJUHGLQWKH
LFRQ  6HYHUDO SRUWUDLWV VXUYLYH RI KHU LQ ZKLFK VKH ZHDUV
WKHVLJQDWXUHUHGmaphorionRYHUDGDUNWXQLF7KHVHLQFOXGH
DQHOHYHQWKWRWZHOIWKFHQWXU\LFRQIURP6LQDLLQZKLFKVKH
VWDQGVZLWK6W&DWKHULQH0DULQDOLNH6W0DULQDVKHZDV
DYLUJLQ
&RORUPLJKWDOVRLQGLFDWHFOLPDWH7KHLVODQGRI$HJLQDRII
WKHFRDVWRI$WWLFDZDVWKHKRPHRI6W$WKDQDVLDZKRZRUH
OLJKWQDWXUDOFRORUHGZRROJDUPHQWVDVPHQWLRQHGHDUOLHU
7KHODERUSHUIRUPHGE\$WKDQDVLDDQGKHUIHOORZUXUDOQXQV
PLJKW KDYH UHFRPPHQGHG WKDW WKH\ ZHDU OLJKW FORWKLQJ DV
FRPSDUHGZLWKWKHXUEDQQXQVRI&RQVWDQWLQRSOH¶V&RQYHQW
RI%HOEDLD(OSLVZKRZRUHEODFN)XUWKHUPRUHRQDQLVODQG
FKRLFHRIFRORUVDQGIDEULFVPD\KDYHEHHQOLPLWHGDQGWKXV
FRORUPLJKWDOVRVLJQLI\UHODWLYHDFFHVVWRPDUNHWV$WWKH
:KLWH0RQDVWHU\LQ(J\SWWKHPHQDQGZRPHQIROORZLQJ
6KHQRXWHLQWKHODWHIRXUWKDQGHDUO\¿IWKFHQWXU\KDUYHVWHG
DQG ZRYH ÀD[ IRU WKHLU FORWKLQJ DV ZHOO DV WR VXSSRUW WKH
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

PRQDVWHU\:KLOHLQRQHOHWWHU6KHQRXWHKLPVHOIFRPSODLQV
WR WKH ZHDYHUV DERXW KLV LOO¿WWLQJ JDUPHQW RQH GHFRUDWHG
ZLWKUHGIULQJHHYHQWKRXJKKHUHTXLUHGWKDWHYHU\RQHHOVH
GUHVVDOLNH)OD[JDUPHQWVZRXOGEHJROGHQLQFRORULIOHIW
XQG\HG ZKLFK ZH FDQ DVVXPH WR EH WKH FDVH DV QR RWKHU
FRORUVDUHPHQWLRQHG7KHOLJKWHUFRORUZRXOGEHSUHIHUDEOH
LQWKH(J\SWLDQGHVHUWVRLWZDVDSUDFWLFDOFKRLFHDVZHOO
7KH FKRLFH RI WKHVH JDUPHQWV IRU WKH schema, and the
FRGL¿FDWLRQ RI WKHVH DUWLFOHV RI FORWKLQJ JUHZ RUJDQLFDOO\
EDVHGRQQHDUE\PRGHOVDQGRQZKDWZDVSUDFWLFDOWDNLQJ
WKHLUFXHVIURPWKHPDOHKDELW7KHHDUOLHVWPRQDVWLFUXOHV
VXFKDVWKRVHE\3DFKRPLXVDQG%DVLOWKH*UHDWERWKRIWKH
IRXUWKFHQWXU\ZURWHZLWKDQDXGLHQFHRIPHQLQPLQGGHVSLWH
WKHIDFWWKDWWKHPRQDVWHULHVDOVRKDGIHPDOHIROORZHUV6W
0DFULQD ZDV WKH ¿UVW H[HPSODU RI FRHQRELWLF OLYLQJ IRU
ZRPHQEXWJLYHQWKDWVKHZDV%DVLOWKH*UHDW¶VVLVWHUKHU
PRGHRIGUHVVVHHPVWRKDYHEHHQLQDFFRUGDQFHZLWK%DVLO¶V
GLFWDWHV 0RVW HDUO\ PRGHOV IRU KHUPHWLF OLYLQJ ZHUH DOVR
PHQ$QWRQ\ WKH *UHDW EHLQJ WKH PRVW IDPRXV H[DPSOH
7KXVZRPHQ¶VPRQDVWLFLVPGHYHORSHGLQSDUDOOHOZLWKPDOH
PRQDVWLFLVP LQFOXGLQJ WKH schema IRU ERWK JHQGHUV  7KH
JDUPHQWV GLVFXVVHG DERYH VDYH IRU WKH skepe, FRXOG KDYH
EHHQZRUQE\PHQRUZRPHQ WXQLFVFORDNVDQGVFDSXODUV 
DOWKRXJK WKH\ PD\ KDYH KDG JHQGHU GLVWLQFWLRQV LQ FXW RU
GHWDLOV GLIIHUHQFHV ZKLFK DUH QRZ ORVW WR XV   +DLU VKLUWV
DQGRWKHUJDUPHQWVIRUDVFHWLFVFRPHGLUHFWO\IURPWKHPDOH
wardrobe with no gender differentiation as far as can be
GHWHUPLQHG

Did a Uniform Exist for Byzantine Nuns?


:KLOHWKHVHHDUO\PRQDVWLFUXOHVFRQWULEXWHGWRDFRGL¿FDWLRQ
of the schemaWKHTXHVWLRQRIZKHWKHURUQRWQXQVZRUHD
XQLIRUP VKRXOG EH FRQVLGHUHG  7KH FRQYHQWLRQDO ZLVGRP
KDV EHHQ WKDW %\]DQWLQH QXQV GLG QRW ZHDU D XQLIRUP DV
GLGQXQVLQWKH0HGLHYDO:HVWEHFDXVHWKH\ZHUHQRWSDUW
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

RIRUGHUVWKDWSUHVFULEHGVSHFL¿FJDUPHQWVDQGFRORUV7KH
UXOHV IRXQG LQ %\]DQWLQH typika as well as those of early
PRQDVWLFOHDGHUVKDYHEHHQYLHZHGPRUHDVDGUHVVFRGH
RQHLQZKLFKSDUDPHWHUVZHUHVHWIRUSURSULHW\¶VVDNH
8QLIRUPVDUHGLVWLQFWIURPDVLPSOHGUHVVFRGHLQVHYHUDO
ZD\VDFFRUGLQJWRVFKRODUVZKRVWXG\WKHRULHVRIXQLIRUPV
-HQQLIHU&UDLNIRULQVWDQFHQRWHVWKDWXQLIRUPVFDUU\ZLWK
WKHP WKH ULVN RI SXQLVKPHQW ZKHQ QRW ZRUQ FRUUHFWO\
:KDWFRPHVWRPLQGIRUXVLQPRGHUQVRFLHW\DUHPLOLWDU\
XQLIRUPVZKLFKDUHQRWRQO\LVVXHGE\WKHPLOLWDU\EXWKDYH
to be worn in precisely the correct way or a soldier risks
SXQLVKPHQW Typika VWUHVV REHGLHQFH WR WKH VXSHULRU EXW LW
LVQRWSRVVLEOHWRGLVFHUQZKDWFRQVHTXHQFHVWKHUHZHUHIRU
QRWIROORZLQJWKHUXOHVRIGUHVV)LQDOO\XQLIRUPVW\SLFDOO\
¿WLQWRDKLHUDUFK\DVPDUNHUVRIUDQN'LYLVLRQVEDVHGRQ
KHDGJHDU±WKHmaphorion and the skepe±DQGSRVVLEO\WKH
XVHRIWKHVFDSXODUZHUHXVHGWRGLVWLQJXLVKFKRLUQXQVIURP
QRYLFHV 'XH WR PRGHUQ PDQXIDFWXULQJ XQLIRUPV DUH QRZ
LGHQWLFDO%\]DQWLQHVWDQGDUGVDUHDQRWKHUPDWWHU,DUJXHWKDW
ZKHQWKHFRORUIDEULFDQGFXWZHUHWKHVDPHWKHJDUPHQWV
ZRXOGEHFRQVLGHUHGLGHQWLFDOLQRWKHUZRUGVDXQLIRUP
)LYH RXW RI WKH VL[ VXUYLYLQJ typika IRU FRQYHQWV
GHPRQVWUDWH WKDW FRQYHQWV SURYLGHG FORWKLQJ IRU WKH QXQV
IXUWKHUVXSSRUWLQJWKHLGHDWKDWWKHKDELWZDVDWUXHXQLIRUP
:RPHQ ZHUH PRUH UHVWULFWHG WKDQ PHQ LQ WKHLU DELOLW\ WR
OHDYHWKHJURXQGVRIWKHFRQYHQWDQGRQHtypikon ±IURPWKH
&RQYHQW RI WKH 0RWKHU RI *RG 3DQWDQDVVD DW %DLRQDLD RQ
&UHWHZULWWHQLQFDGLFWDWHGWKDWQXQVFRXOGQRWEX\
RU VHOO DQ\ JRRGV QRU FRXOG WKHLU UHODWLYHV GR LW IRU WKHP
ZLWKRXWWKHSUHVHQFHRIWKHVXSHULRU1DWXUDOO\LIFRQYHQWV
UHVWULFWHGWKHPRYHPHQWRIWKHQXQVWKH\KDGWRFRPSHQVDWH
E\VXSSO\LQJQHFHVVLWLHVWRWKHPLQFOXGLQJFORWKLQJ:RPHQ
ZHUHHQFRXUDJHGWRWXUQRYHUWKHLUFORWKLQJXSRQHQWUDQFHWR
WKHFRQYHQWIRUYDULRXVSXUSRVHVVXFKDVGRQDWLQJFORWKLQJ
WRWKHSRRURURWKHUQXQV7KLV/DWH%\]DQWLQHUXOHIROORZV
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

HDUO\SDWULVWLFZULWLQJVVXFKDV6KHQRXWHDQG%DVLOWKH*UHDW
ZKR ERWK VXJJHVW WKDW FORWKLQJ EH FRPPRQO\ KHOG DQG
GLVFRXUDJHGLQGLYLGXDORZQHUVKLSRIVXFKLWHPV

Conclusions
3XOOLQJ WRJHWKHU WKHVH ¿QGLQJV RQ FRORU WKH JDUPHQWV
WKHPVHOYHVDVZHOODVWKHLQIRUPDWLRQDERXWKRZJDUPHQWV
ZHUH DFTXLUHG DOORZV XV WR GUDZ VRPH FRQFOXVLRQV DERXW
the schema RI %\]DQWLQH UHOLJLRXV ZRPHQ  1R PDWWHU
ZKHUH RU ZKHQ RQH OLYHG  DOO ZRPHQ ZKR WRRN XS WKH
UHOLJLRXV OLIH ZRUH VLPSOH JDUPHQWV RI WXQLFV FORDN DQG
KHDGJHDUXVXDOO\RIZRRORUFRDUVHOLQHQ,QWKHEHJLQQLQJV
RI PRQDVWLFLVP LQ WKH IRXUWK FHQWXU\ WKH ¿UVW QXQV LQ
(J\SWDQGODWHU3DOHVWLQHDQG6\ULDZRUHXQG\HGRUZKLWH
JDUPHQWVERWKPDGHIURPORFDOÀD[RUZRRO(DUO\QXQV
ZRUH YHLOV maphoria DQG DGGLWLRQDOO\ PD\ KDYH ZRUQ D
koukoulion KRRG  WR FRYHU WKH KHDG ZKHQ RXWVLGH RI WKH
FRQYHQW  7KH XQG\HG JDUPHQWV HPERGLHG SRYHUW\ DV
G\HZDVH[SHQVLYH:KHQJDUPHQWVDUHUHIHUUHGWRLQWKH
OLWHUDU\UHFRUGDVZKLWHWKH\PD\DOVRPHDQVLPSO\OLJKW
LQFRORURUXQG\HGWH[WLOHV7KHXVHRIZKLWHZKHWKHUD
WUXHZKLWHRUDQRIIZKLWHFRQQRWHGSXULW\DQGOLYLQJDOLIH
IUHHRIVLQ:KLWHUHPDLQVDFRORUFKRVHQE\FHUWDLQJURXSV
RIQXQVWKURXJKRXW%\]DQWLQHKLVWRU\EXWHVSHFLDOO\WKRVH
OLYLQJ LQ ZDUPHU FOLPDWHV ZKHUH LW PD\ KDYH EHHQ PRUH
SUDFWLFDOWRZHDUOLJKWO\FRORUHGFORWKLQJ
7KHKDLUVKLUWZRUQE\WKHYHU\¿UVWGHVHUWIDWKHUVZDVDOVR
ZRUQE\DVFHWLFZRPHQDVZHOODVE\VRPHFRHQRELWLFQXQV
7KHKDLUVKLUW¶VURXJKWH[WXUHVHUYHGDVDWUXHUHQXQFLDWLRQRI
WKHPDWHULDOZRUOGHPERGLHGLQVRIWIDEULFV$GGLWLRQDOO\
WKHKDLUVKLUWUHFDOOHG-RKQWKH%DSWLVWWKHRULJLQDOZHDUHURI
WKHJDUPHQWLQWKH&KULVWLDQZRUOG,QUHDOLW\WKHGLVWLQFWLRQ
EHWZHHQWKHKDLUVKLUWDQGVRPHXQG\HGFRDUVHZRROJDUPHQW
or sackcloth was probably slight and certainly the two fabrics
FDUULHGWKHVDPHPHDQLQJ
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

%\ WKH 0LGGOH %\]DQWLQH SHULRG QXQV¶ JDUPHQWV DUH


FRPPRQO\UHIHUUHGWRDVEODFNZKLFKDVPHQWLRQHGHDUOLHU
WRRXUH\HVZRXOGVLPSO\EHGDUNLQFRORUQRWQHFHVVDULO\D
WUXHEODFN7KHHDUOLHVWUHIHUHQFHWREODFNFORWKLQJLVLQWKH
9LWDRI6W0DFULQDRI6KHGRQVWKH³EODFNFORDNRID
PRQDVWLF´ As the pictorial record is scant before the Middle
%\]DQWLQHHUDLWLVKDUGWRVD\KRZPDQ\QXQVFKRVHEODFN
DVFRPSDUHGWRZKLWHRUXQG\HGJDUPHQWVWKHOLWHUDU\UHFRUG
LQGLFDWHVWKDWWKHOLJKWHUFRORUVZHUHIDYRUHGHDUO\RQ%\
WKHQLQWKFHQWXU\KRZHYHUWKHSLFWRULDOUHFRUGDORQJZLWK
OLWHUDU\GHVFULSWLRQVGHPRQVWUDWHVWKDWWKHEODFNGDUNFORDN
ZDVPRVWFRPPRQDPRQJQXQV,WLVLPSRUWDQWWRSRLQWRXW
WKDWZKLOHEODFNZDVPRVWRIWHQXVHGIRUFORDNVWKHYDULDWLRQ
LQWKHFRORURIWKHWXQLFLQDOOSHULRGVLVPXFKJUHDWHUZLWK
ZKLWHJUD\DQGUHGVHHQWKURXJKRXWWKHSLFWRULDODQGOLWHUDU\
UHFRUG
%ULGHV RI &KULVW FRPPLWWHG YLUJLQV OLYLQJ DORQH RU LQ
JURXSVPD\KDYHZRUQUHGWRLQGLFDWHWKHLUVWDWXVDVEULGHV
DVGLG6W0DFULQDZKRZDVEXULHGLQUHGGUHVV7KHUHGYHLO
ZDVWKHPRVWFRPPRQFKRLFHRIUHGJDUPHQW,SRVLWWKDW
WKHUHGFRORUSRLQWHGWRWKHQXQ¶VVWDWXVDVEULGHRI&KULVW
UDWKHUWKDQVLPSO\KHUSRVVLEOHQREOHOLQHDJHDOWKRXJKWKH
WZRRIWHQZHQWKDQGLQKDQGDVZLWK6W0DULQD
7KHQXQ¶VYHLOmaphorionUHPDLQHGUHODWLYHO\XQFKDQJHG
WKURXJKRXW WKH %\]DQWLQH HUD DOWKRXJK VRPH QXQV ZRUH D
GDUNYHLODQGRWKHUVZKLWHRUUHGDVGLVFXVVHGDERYH,QWKH
/DWH%\]DQWLQHSHULRGWKHYHLOWDNHVRQDPRUHYROXPLQRXV
IRUPOLNHWKDWRIDWXUEDQ7KLVLVZKDWLVNQRZQDVWKHskepe
ZKLFKLVUHVHUYHGIRUWKHKLJKHVWUDQNLQJFRHQRELWLFQXQV
7KHGHYHORSPHQWRIWKHskepeSDUDOOHOVWKHLQWURGXFWLRQRI
WKH WXUEDQ LQWR %\]DQWLQH GUHVV IRU ERWK PHQ DQG ZRPHQ
PRUHJHQHUDOO\,WLVQRWVXUSULVLQJWKDWVLPLODULWLHVEHWZHHQ
OD\DQGPRQDVWLFJDUPHQWVZRXOGGHYHORSDVQXQVVRRIWHQ
OHGIXOOOLYHVDVOD\ZRPHQEHIRUHHQWHULQJPRQDVWLFOLIH
7KH %\]DQWLQH ZRPHQ¶V PRQDVWLF schema FDQ WKXV EH
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

GHVFULEHG DV D XQLIRUP ,QVWHDG RI GHQRWLQJ D SDUWLFXODU


FRPPXQLW\ RU FRQYHQW WKH FRORU VLJQL¿HG WKH W\SH RI QXQ
DQGRUORFDOH±FRPPLWWHGYLUJLQDVFHWLFFRHQRELWLFXUEDQ
QXQRUGHVHUWGZHOOLQJQXQ7KHLUKHDGJHDUFDPHWRVLJQDO
WKHLU UDQN 6\PEROLFDOO\ WKH JDUPHQWV HPERGLHG WKH YRZV
RISRYHUW\DQGREHGLHQFHWDNHQE\WKHQXQVHLWKHUIRUPDOO\
RULQIRUPDOO\7KHVHSUHVFULSWLRQVIRUGUHVVZHUHFRGL¿HGLQ
a literal sense in typika, which enforced the wearing of this
XQLIRUP$GGLWLRQDOO\DQGSHUKDSVPRUHLPSRUWDQWO\IRURXU
XQGHUVWDQGLQJ RI WKH IXQFWLRQ RI WKH schema LQ %\]DQWLQH
VRFLHW\WKHXQLIRUPKDELWZDVZULWWHQLQWRWKHOLWHUDU\UHFRUG
DQG SDLQWHG LQWR WKH VWDQGDUGL]HG LPDJHV RI QXQV VHHQ
HVSHFLDOO\LQLFRQVRIKRO\ZRPHQ7KH%\]DQWLQHYLHZHU
LGHQWL¿HGDQXQE\KHUJDUPHQWVDQGDFFRUGLQJO\XQGHUVWRRG
ZKRVKHZDVZKHUHVKHFDPHIURPDQGKHUUDQN
NEED TO PUT IMAGES

Fig. 1: St. Marina icon, Menil collection, 13th c. (accession


number 85-57.04 DJ)
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 

Notes
1
7ZRUHFHQWH[DPSOHVRIVRXUFHVWKDWGHVFULEHWKHschema in this way
DUH&&RQQRUWomen of Byzantium 1HZ+DYHQ DQG$0
7DOERW³QXQ´LQThe Oxford Dictionary of Byzantium$3.D]KGDQHG
1HZ<RUNDQG2[IRUG2[IRUG8QLYHUVLW\3UHVV 
2
2QW\SHVRIµQXQV¶VHH$07DOERW³)HPDOH6DQFWLW\LQ%\]DQWLXP´LQ
Women and Religious Life in Byzantium %XUOLQJWRQ$VKJDWH3XEOLVKHUV
 

 57 0D\HU HG Palladius, The Lausiac History :HVWPLQVWHU 0'
7KH1HZPDQ3UHVV 

'0RXULNL³3RUWUDLWVRI6W7KHRGRVLDLQ)LYH6LQDL,FRQV´LQThymiama
ste Mneme tes Laskarinas Broura $WKHQV%HQDNL3UHVV  II

+0DJXLUHThe Icons of their Bodies 3ULQFHWRQ3ULQFHWRQ8QLYHUVLW\
Press,  0DJXLUHGHPRQVWUDWHVWKDW6DLQWVOLYHVVKRZDSUDFWLFHRI
DUWLVWVSDLQWLQJSRUWUDLWVIURPOLIH:HFDQQRWNQRZLIGHYRWLRQDOLPDJHV
LQ FKXUFKHV DQG PDQXVFULSWV ZHUH GRQH LQ WKLV ZD\ EXW WKHUH LV VRPH
HYLGHQFHWKDWWKH\FRXOGKDYHEHHQ

 67 7RYDU ³7KH 7HUPLQRORJ\ RI (J\SWLDQ 0RQDVWLF *DUPHQWV´ LQ
Material Culture and Well-Being in Byzantium 400-1453, Michael
*UXHQEDUWHWDOHGV 9LHQQD9HUOJGHU2VWHUUHLFKLVFKHQ$NGDGHPLHGHU
:LVVHQVFKIDWHQ 

 $V LQ «ἑσϑήτa μεταφιεμἑνη τὴν μἑλαιναν«´ ( 5HQDXOG HG Michel
Psellos Chronographie 3DULV ,,

 7 9LYLDQ ³$ :RPDQ LQ WKH 'HVHUW 6\QFOHFWLFD RI 3DOHVWLQH´ LQ
Journeying into God: Seven Early Monastic Lives 0LQQHDSROLV)RUWUHVV
3UHVV 

 -3 7KRPDV $ &RQVWDQWLQLGHV +HUR DQG * &RQVWDEOH Byzantine
Monastic Foundation Documents: a complete translation of the surviving
founders’ typika and testaments :DVKLQJWRQ '& 'XPEDUWRQ 2DNV
5HVHDUFK/LEUDU\DQG&ROOHFWLRQ 

7KHUHDUHH[FHSWLRQVDPRQJODLW\ZRPHQZKRDUHVKRZQGRLQJPDQXDO
ODERUDUHRFFDVLRQDOO\VKRZQLQDWKUHHTXDUWHUOHQJWKWXQLFVXFKDVRQWKH
WHQWKWRHOHYHQWKFHQWXU\LYRU\SODTXHIURPDFDVNHWGHSLFWLQJ$GDPDQG
(YHDWWKHIRUJHDWWKH0HWURSROLWDQ0XVHXPRI$UWDFFHVVLRQQXPEHU

11
-%DOOByzantine Dress: Representations of Secular Dress in Eighth-
to Twelfth-Century Painting7KH1HZ0LGGOH$JHV6HULHV 1HZ<RUN
3DOJUDYH 
12
 $Q H[FHSWLRQ KHUH PD\ EH idiorryhthmic PRQNV DQGRU PRQNV ZKR
ODERUHGDQGVHUYHGWKHFKRLUEURWKHUVdiakonetaiERWKRIZKRP,SRVLW
ZRUH VKRUW JDUPHQWV  7KLV  LGHD ZDV ¿UVW SUHVHQWHG LQ Decoding the
Monastic Habit in Image and TextIRU7KH)LUVW.DOOLQLNHLRQ&RQIHUHQFH
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

RI 1HZ <RUN %\]DQWLQLVWV &HQWHU IRU %\]DQWLQH DQG 0RGHUQ *UHHN
6WXGLHV4XHHQV&ROOHJH$SULO

$(/DLRX³/LIHRI6W0DU\WKH<RXQJHU´LQHoly Women of Byzantium,
$07DOERWHG :DVKLQJWRQ'&'XPEDUWRQ2DNV5HVHDUFK/LEUDU\
and Collection,  

/)6KHUU\³/LIHRI6W$WKDQDVLDRI$HJLQD´LQHoly Women

Niketas Choniates, O City of Byzantium, Annals of Niketas Choniates,
7UDQVE\+-0DJRXOLDV 'HWURLW:D\QH6WDWH8QLYHUVLW\3UHVV  
 &KRQLDWHV GHVFULEHV .RVPDV D GHDFRQ IURP $HJLQD ³+H ZDV VR
HDJHUWRGHPRQVWUDWHKLVSLW\IRUPDQNLQGWKDWKHJDYHWKHLQGLJHQWKLV
FORDNVRPHWLPHVWKHWXQLFWKDWFRYHUHGKLVERG\DQGKLVOLQHQFRYHUHG
KHDGGUHVVDVZHOODVSURYLGLQJEHJJDUVDQGWKRVHZKRFROOHFWHGDOPVIRU
WKHQHHG\ZLWKJRRGVIURPKLVRZQGZHOOLQJ´

6KHUU\³6W$WKDQDVLD´LQHoly Women

 -2 5RVHQTYLVW HG The life of St. Irene Abbess of Chrysobalanton
8SSVDOD$OPTXLVWDQG:LNVHOO,QW>GLVWULEXWRU@ 

&XUUHQWO\2UWKRGR[PRQNVDQGQXQVPXVWZHDUDVFDSXODU LQPRGHUQ
Greek, schema ZKLFKLVOLNHO\WKHUHDVRQZK\LWKDVEHHQDVVXPHGWREH
SDUWRIWKHKDELWLQWKHPHGLHYDOSHULRG

 7KRPDV +HUR DQG &RQVWDEOH Byzantine Foundation Documents,


-)HDWKHUVWRQHDQG&0DQJR³/LIHRI6W0DWURQDRI3HUJH´LQHoly
Women,
21
)HDWKHUVWRQHDQG0DQJR³6W0DWURQD´
22
($6RSKRFOHVGreek Lexicon of the Roman and Byzantine Periods,
1<)8QJDU3XEOLVKLQJ&RPSDQ\ DQG+*/LGGHOODQG56FRWW
A Greek-English Lexicon 2[IRUG 2[IRUG 8QLYHUVLW\ 3UHVV  
1RWDEO\WKHWHUPskepeLVQRWIRXQGLQ*:+/DPSH¶VA Patristic Greek
LexiconZKLFKJHQHUDOO\KDVPRUHFRPSOHWHHQWULHVIRUPRQDVWLFWHUPV

 7KRPDV +HUR DQG &RQVWDEOH Byzantine Foundation Documents,


³,JLYHWKHQDPHRIµskepai’ WRWKHVHKHDGFRYHULQJVZKLFK\RXWHUP
‘phakiolia’ and ‘magoulikia¶LQWKHSRSXODULGLRP´7KRPDV+HURDQG
Constable, Byzantine Foundation Documents

%DOOByzantine Dress

 % %LWWRQ$VNHORQ\ DQG $ .RIVN\ The Monastic School of Gaza,
/HLGHQ(-%DOO  DQG7RYDU³(J\SWLDQ0RQDVWLF*DUPHQWV´


$07DOERW³/LIHRI6W7KHRGRUD2I7KHVVDORQLNH´LQHoly Women,


Mayer, Palladius

5RVHQTYLVW St. Irene
Ball: Decoding the Habit of the Byzantine Nun 


5RVHQTYLVWSt. Irene

5.UDZLHFShenoute and the Women of the White Monastery: Egyptian
Monasticism in Late Antiquity 2[IRUG2[IRUG8QLYHUVLW\3UHVV 

.UDZLHFShenouteQ

7KRPDV+HURDQG&RQVWDEOHByzantine Foundation Documents

7KRPDV +HUR DQG &RQVWDEOH Byzantine Foundation Documents,


7KRPDV+HURDQG&RQVWDEOHByzantine Foundation Documents
DQG

7KRPDV+HURDQG&RQVWDEOHByzantine Foundation Documents

5RVHQTYLVWSt. Irene, 

6KHUU\³6W$WKDQDVLDRI$HJLQD´

9LYLDQ³6\QFOHFWLFDRI3DOHVWLQH´

3%URZQThe Body and Society: Men, Women and Sexual Renunciation
in Early Christianity 1HZ <RUN &ROXPELD 8QLYHUVLW\ 3UHVV  


'XPEDUWRQ2DNV+DJLRJUDSK\GDWDEDVH³7KHRGRUDRI.DLVDULV´$0
7DOERWHGOLQHV

)HDWKHUVWRQHDQG0DQJR³6W0DWURQD´

(YDJULXV3RQWLFXVThe Praktikos and Chapters on Prayer, Cistercian
Studies Series1XPEHU-(%DPEHUJHUWUDQV .DODPD]RR&LVWHUFLDQ
3XEOLVKHUV 

%LWWRQ$VNHORQ\DQG.RIVN\, Monastic school of Gaza

Connor, Women

 7KRPDV +HUR DQG &RQVWDEOH Byzantine Foundation Documents,


 7KRPDV +HUR DQG &RQVWDEOH Byzantine Foundation Documents,


7KHUHDUHVHYHUDOH[DPSOHVLQ%D\HULVFKHV1DWLRQDO0XVHXPSakrale
Gewander des Mittelhalters 0XQLFK 

6HHQRWH

7UDQVODWLRQIURP*UHHNPLQH*UHHNWH[WLQ5HQDXOGMichel Psellos
Chronographie ,, Kαὶ ἡ μὲν τας τε τρίχας αποτμηθείσα καὶ ὲσθἡτα
μεταμφιεσαμὲνη τὴν μὲλαιναν, ἐπὶ τι καταγῶγιον μετατὶθεται, ὸ δὲ Ῥωμανὸς
(τοῦτο γὰρ όνομα τὼ ἀνδρὶ) ἐπὶ τὰ βασὶλεια πρὸς τὸ τοῦ βασιλέως κὴδος
αναλαμβάνεται.

-+DUYH\Men in Black &KLFDJR8QLYHUVLW\RI&KLFDJR3UHVV 


6KHUU\³6W$WKDQDVLD´

7RYDU³(J\SWLDQ0RQDVWLF*DUPHQWV´

7RYDU

6%URFNDQG6+DUYH\³3HODJLDRI$QWLRFK´LQHoly Women of the
 -RXUQDORI0RGHUQ+HOOHQLVP

Syrian Orient %HUNHOH\ 



57DIW³%DSWLVP´Oxford Dictionary of Byzantium

/DLRX³0DU\WKH<RXQJHU´Holy WomenDQG

/DLRX³0DU\WKH<RXQJHU´

-)ROGD³7KH6DLQW0DULQD,FRQ0DQLHUD&\SULD/LQJXD)UDQFDRU
&UXVDGHU$UW"´LQFour Icons in the Menil Collection +RXVWRQ 


0HQLO&ROOHFWLRQDFFHVVLRQQXPEHU'-

/DLRX³0DU\WKH<RXQJHU´

Macrina is described in Connor, Women³<RXKDYHLQ\RXUKDQGV
HYHU\WKLQJVKHSXWDZD\/RRNDWKHUFORDNORRNDWWKHYHLORQKHUKHDG
WKHZRUQVDQGDOVRQKHUIHHWWKLVLVKHUZHDOWKWKLVLVKHUIRUWXQH$SDUW
IURPZKDW\RXVHHWKHUHLVQRWKLQJODLGE\LQKLGGHQFKHVWVRUFKDPEHUVLQ
UHVHUYH6KHNQHZRQO\RQHUHSRVLWRU\IRUKHURZQZHDOWKWKHWUHDVXU\RI
KHDYHQ´/DWHUKHUEXULDOJDUPHQWSURYLGHGE\KHUEURWKHU*UHJRU\ ZKR
EHFRPHV%DVLOWKH*UHDW LVDUHGGUHVVWKH³GUHVVRIDEULGH´DFFRUGLQJ
WR&RQQRUDQGVKHZHDUVD³EODFNFORDNRIDPRQDVWLF´RYHUWKDW³6KH
VKRQH HYHQ LQ WKH GDUN PDQWOH *RG¶V SRZHU , WKLQN DGGHG HYHQ VXFK
JUDFHWRKHUERG\WKDWH[DFWO\DVLQWKHYLVLRQ,KDGZKLOHGUHDPLQJUD\V
RIOLJKWVHHPHGWRVKLQHRXWIURPKHUEHDXW\´

.UDZLHFShenouteDQGQ

 3 +DOVDOO ³:RPHQ
V %RGLHV 0HQ
V 6RXOV 6DQFWLW\ DQG *HQGHU LQ
%\]DQWLXP´ 3K' 'LVVHUWDWLRQ )RUGKDP 8QLYHUVLW\  +DOVDOO
VKRZVWKHQXPEHURIIHPDOHVXEMHFWVRIYLWDYHUVXVPHQDQGSRLQWVWRD
GHFOLQHLQKRO\ZRPHQWKURXJKRXWWKH%\]DQWLQHSHULRGVHHHVSHFLDOO\
7DEOH

-&UDLN³7KH&XOWXUDO3ROLWLFVRIWKH8QLIRUP´Fashion Theory
 

Connor, Women

%DOOByzantine Dress,

You might also like