Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 23, December \998, pp. 233-241

Low-stress behaviour and sewability of suiting and shirting fabrics

B K Behera & Suraj Sharma
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, New Delhi 110 016, India

Received 20 October 1997; accepted 6 January 1998

Low-stress mechanical properties of various suiting and shirting fabrics have been studied on
Kawabata fabric evaluation system. Sewability of these fabrics has also been studied. The correlations
between low-stress mechanical properties and various sewability parameters have been determined for
different types of suiting and shirting fabrics. Formability as one of the indicators of fabric making-up
process is estimated. A high dependence of seam efficiency on fabric weight and thickness has been
observed whereas these two properties have a high negative correlation with seam pucker. Bending has a
negative correlation with both seam efficiency and seam pucker.

Keywords: Formability, Low-stress mechanical properties, Sewability, Shirting fabrics, Suiting fabrics

1 Introduction result, research has been directed towards the

The sewn products industry is one of the most development of objective measurement of fabric
labour intensive industries to be automated and the mechanical and handle properties relevant to
extent of automation varies among countries. While tailorability. Fabric mechanical properties important
there are other methods of shaping fabrics into usable in the determination of stress incurred in the making-
products, stitch seaming is by far the most common up process include load-extension characteristics,
method used worldover. In this process, the skill and buckling, shearing and compression. Other factors
experience of the operator is still often fundamental affecting the appearance of the seamed garment
to the quality of the final product, mainly due to the include the effect of garment fit, body movement and
complex nature of the manipulations required in the gravity", Keeping in view the above objectives, the
seaming process. The appearance and durability of present work aims at determining inter-relationship
the seams form an important component of the between low-stress mechanical properties and seam
quality of the finished article. performance parameters, viz. seam strength, seam
Despite the importance of the seam, from both pucker and seam slippage, of some selected suiting
economic and aesthetic points of view, studies on and shirting fabrics.
seamed materials are relatively few. Seamed articles
are more complex than fibres and fabrics, and it is 2 Materials and Methods
apparent that an integrated approach incorporating 2.1 Materials
characteristics of all these material variables is 2.Ll Fabric Samples
necessary. Five suiting fabrics and five shirting fabrics
Fundamentally, in garment manufacturing, a two- covering a wide range of areal density were chosen
dimensional structure (fabric) is converted into a for this work. The details of these fabrics are given in
Table 1. .
three-dimensional structure(garment). During this
process, the fabric is subjected to various types of
2.1.2 Sewing Thread
mechanical stresses. Under close examination, it can
A sewing thread having the following
be observed that most of the stresses imposed on
specifications was used:
fabric during the sewing process are low-stress in
nature!". Therefore, it is expected that with the help Sewing thread : Spun polyester
of low-stress mechanical properties, the sewability Ticket no. : 50
of the fabric can be assessed and the results can be CSP : 5605
used to select a particular fabric for the given end Single thread strength : 845g
use, depending on its sewing performances. As a Extension at break : 17%
234 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., DECEMBER 1998

Table I-Fabric constructional parameters and dimensional properties

Fabric Weave Code Weight Thick- Warp Weft Ends Picks Warp Weft Relative
type g1m2 ness count count lin lin crimp crimp cover
mm % %

Suiting fabrics
65:35PN .Matty PVI 278 0.95 2115 2115 40 38 \0 7 0.76
65:35PN Twill PV2 228 0.79 2140 2140 84 72 6 5 0.86
67:33P/C Plain PC3 194 0.89 2130 2130 60 50 II 6 0.75
48:52PN Plain PV4 180 0.66 2140 2140 70 62 II 9 0.78
48:52PN Plain PV5 145 0.64 2140 2140 56 52 6 5 0.67
Sbirting fabrics
lOO%L Plain Ll 220 0.76 9 9 49 41 8.6 8.5 0.79
100%L Plain L2 185 0.77 14 15 67 49 7.6 4.6 0.80
80:20UC Plain LC3 169 0.70 9 9 38 24 4.1 13 0.61
55:45UC Plain LC4 144 0.68 16 16 57 45 9 II 0.59
62:38UC Plain LC5 128 0.68 25 25 39 40 12.3 3 0.50

P~olyester ; V-Viscose; ~tton: and L-Linen

Diameter at 20gf/cm2 : O.IOmm Tensile strain rate : 0.2mm1s(OAO/oIs)

Shear strain rate : 0.00843mm1s
2.2 Methods
2.2.1 Sewing (Speed: 1%)
Sewing was carried out on a Singer (industrial) Shear deformation was applied in the width
sewing machine with following conditions: direction. The readings were taken in the warp and
Machine speed : 3200 stitches/min weft directions for each sample.
Seam geometry : plain lock stitch seam
2.4.2 Bending Properties
Stitch length : 2.5 mm
Bending properties were studied on KES-
Linear stitch density : 8 stitches/in
FB2(pure bending tester) using the following test
Needle size : 16
parameters:
Needle thread tension : 60 g
Bobbin thread tension : 25 g Sample size : 20cmx 20cm
Seam allowance : 1 in Clamp interval : lcm
Rate of curvature : O.5/cm.s
2.3 Evaluation of Fabric Dimensional Properties Max. curvature : ±2.5/cm
Fabric dimensional properties such as areal
density, .fabric set, crimp and cover factor were 2.4.3 Compression Properties
measured using the standard procedures Compression test was carried out on KES-FB3
using the following test parameters:
2.4 Measurement of Fabric Low-Stress Mechanical
Sample size : 20cmx 20cm
Properties
Low-stress mechanical properties including Area of plunger :2cm2
tensile, shear, bending, compression, roughness and Rate of compression : 20m1s
Max.compression load :50gf/cm2
friction were measured on Kawabata fabric
evaluation tester.
2.4.4 Surface Properties
Contactor for friction measurement: Ten parallel
2.4.1 Tensile and Shear Properties
Tensile and shear testings were carried out on steel wires of O.5mm diam. and 5mm length
KES-FB 1 using the following test parameters: simulating finger-skin geometry (Contact force
:50gf).
Sample size : 20 em X 20 em Contactor for geometrical roughness: A steel piano wire
Maximum tensile strain : 100% ofO.5mm diarn. and Smm length placed on fabric surface
Maximum shear angle : ±8 deg with contact force of 10gf.
 BEHERA & SHARMA: LOW-STRESS BEHAVIOUR AND SEW ABILITY OF FABRICS 235

Measured distance : 2cm 2.6 Evaluatioa of SewabiIity

Velocity : O.1cm/s 2.6.1 Seam Streagth
Tension on specimen : 20gf/cm The test was done as per ASlM-D1683 for failure
\ in sewn seams of woven fabrics on an Instron tensile
The signal of wavelength less than lmm was
tester
allowed to pass by a highpass filter of 2nd order.
The low-stress fabric attributes obtained from Load cell : lOOkg
above tests and their notations are given in Table 2. Crosshead speed : lOOmm/min
Gauge length : 7.5 in
2.5 EvaluatioD of Sewing Thread Properties Jaw width : 2 in
2.5.1 Stmlgtb and EIoDgation
Strength and elongation of sewing threads were The specimens were placed centrally between the
measured as per ASlM-D2256 on an Instron tensile
clamp faces and the seam perpendicular to pulling
tester. force. Vertical alignment guidelines were also
marked to aid proper placement in the clamps. Sewn
2.5.2 Loop StreDgth
Loop strength was also measured on Instron seam strength was calculated. The efficiency of the
tensile tester. In this case, the specimen consists of seam was calculated by using the following formula:
the pieces of yam taken from one package. Both the
ends of one piece are secured in one clamp of the Seam effici
iciency (0/)
/0 = Seam tensilestregth x 100
Fabric tensile strength
testing machine so that the length of the loop is about
one half of the gauge length.
2.6.2 Seam Pucker
2.5.3 Diameter This test was carried out on an Instron tensile
Diameter was measured on Prolific thickness tester. Seam pucker is expressed as the percentage
tester(ESSDIEL) at 20gf/cm2 pressure. difference between the thickness of seamed fabric to
twice the thickness of the fabric.
Table 2-fabric Mechanical attributes

Test Low-stress property Notation Thickness strain 7 S -2F xlOO

or seam pucker 2F
Tensile test Extensibility EM
Linearity LT
where S is the thickness of seamed fabric; and
Tensile energy WT
Tensile resilience RT F, the thickness of fabric.

Shear test Shear stiffness G 2.6.3 Seam Slippage

Hysteresis at 0.50 shear 2HG This test was carried out according to ASTM-
angle
D434. The load-elongation curve of the fabric was
Hysteresis at 50 shear 2HG5
angle superimposed over a load-elongation curve of the
same fabric with a standard seam sewn parallel to the
Bending test Bending rigidity B yams being tested. The force at which the load -
Hysteresis of bending 2HB elongation curve of the fabric with the seam is a
moment
predetermined distance greater than the load-
Compression test Linearity of compression LC elongation curve of the fabric without a seam is
thickness curve reported as the newtons per meter resistance to yam
Compressional energy WC slippage. Generally, a 114 in.(6.4mm) separation is
Compressional resilience RC
used, but for some fabrics, a smaller opening is
Surface Coefficient of friction MIU preferred. A 1 lb (4.4SN) compensation is deducted
characteristics to allow for elongation of the seam.
Mean deviation ofMIU MMD
Geometrical roughness SMD 3 Results and Discussion
3.1 Fabric Properties and Making-up Process
Fabric construction Weight/unit area W
Fabrics are more extensible in the low load region
Fabric thickness T
than in the high load region. The property in low
236 INDIAN 1. FffiRE TEXT. RES., DECEMBER
load region is closely related to the making-up of
tailoring process and comfort of the wearer. In
making-up process, an initially flat fabric is formed
into a stable complex 3-D garment, The
conformation of the flat fabric to any 3-dimensional
structure requires a certain amount of deformation
such as bending, extension, longitudinalcompression
and shearing in the fabric plane at very low loads.
Fabric extensibility in the small region causes
difficulty in the handling of fabrics during cutting
and sewing processes. Thus, the tensile, longitudinal
compression, bending and shearing are the main
mechanical properties relevant to the sewing or
tailoring process.
In principle, investigations were made by
comparing KESF and conventional parameters
(mechanical and dimensional) for suiting and shirting
fabrics with the sewability parameters, viz. seam
efficiency, seam pucker and seam slippage. The
correlations between low-stress properties and
sewability parameters were established. Sewability
parameters are dependent not only on the fabric
properties but also on the type of seam and stitch,
sewing thread properties, sewing machine
parameters, and the skill of the operator. Thus, all the
sewn samples were prepared using different fabrics
under identical conditions of sewing. Since th~ fabric
undergoes deformation due to the application of
stress in the making-up process, both fabric
dimensional and mechanical properties play an
importantrole in the study of sewability.
1998
I
3.2 Fabric Dimensional Properties
The dimensional properties of various suiting and
shirting fabrics are shown in Table 1. It may be seen
from the results that with the increase in fabric
weight the thickness invariably increases,
irrespective of the fabric composition. Increase in
mass has been obtained by incorporating coarser
yam and interlacement with longer floats. The
relative cover of the fabric also increases with the
increase in fabric areal density.
3.3 Low-stress Mecbanical Properties
Low-stress mechanical properties of suiting and
shirting fabrics are given in Tables 3 and 4
respectively.
3.3.1 Tensile Properties
3.3.1.1 TeosUe Stram at SOOgfIcm(EM)
EM indicates low-stress extensibility. This
extensibility is related to ease of crimp removal,
which, in turn, determines the mobility of threads
within the fabric. Mobility of thread under low load
is expected to influence seam slippage. EM is very
important for fabric tailorability. A larger value of
EM causes problem during tailoring; especially, it
results in distortion of fabric during sewing and
steam processing. On the other hand, higher EM
provides wearing comfort. While comparing the EM
values of plain woven polyester-viscose (48:52)
fabric with twill woven polyester-viscose (65:35)
fabric, it may be seen that the difference is not

Table 3-Low-stress mechanical properties of suiting fabrics

Property Fabric sample

PVI PV2 PC3 PV4 PV5

EM 5.52 4.57 5.59 4.37 3.69

B 0.235 0.105 0.115 0.132 0.06
HB 0.299 0.148 0.167 0.176 0.066
LT 0.751 0.737 0.783 0.762 0.679
WT 10.81 8.41 10.93 8.31 6.26
RT 46.04 50.93 51.53 55.17 58.45
LC 0.344 0.315 0.295 0.322 0.308
WC 0.192 0.168 0.239 0.161 0.162
RC 56.39 56.09 48.551 54.033 58.436
G 1.957 1.573 1.84 2.8 0.745
2HG 5.71 4.48 5.23 8.02 2
2HG5 8.56 7.47 6.52 10.23 3
MIU 0.195 0.184 0.179 0.174 0.206
MMD 0.021 0.129 0.0862 0.0211 0.0927
SMD 17.001 4.172 12.377 8.506 11.236
W 25.83 21.28 18.64 16.67 13.13
T 0.95 0.79 0.89 0.66 0.64
Formability 1.297 0.48 0.643 0.517 0.221
 BEHERA & SHARMA: LOW-STRESS BEHAVIOUR AND SEWABILITY OF FABRICS 237

Table 4--Low-stress nlechanicaI properties of shirting fabrics

Property Fabric sample

LI L2 LC3 LC4 LV5

EM 1.4 2.52 1.39 1.96 1.51

B 0.315 0.2 0.267 0.108 0.145
HB 0.128 0.067 0.127 0.064 0.112
LT 1 0.9 0.92 1.03 0.92
WT 0.35 0.57 0.32 0.5 0.35
RT 81.44 82.69 63.85 60.48 58.87
LC 0.639 0.654 0.538 0.665 0.748
WC 0.059 0.057 0.086 0.048 0.044
RC 58.3 52.68 52.66 51.08 56.39
G 0.353 0.253 0.278 0.513 0.242
2HG 0.234 0.114 0.281 0.645 0.626
2HG5 1.083 0.39 0.477 1.571 0.299
MIU 0.168 0.186 0.201 0.167 0.171
MMD 0.0234 0.0419 0.027 0.025 0.0216
SMD 13.86 9.44 11.24 10.97 19.31
W 21.86 18.49 16.91 14.46 12.54
T 0.76 0.77 0.70 0.68 0.68
Formability 0.441 0.504 0.371 0.211 0.219

significant. In fact, a twill weave provides more
mobility to the yam because of less crossover points.
Therefore, it should provide higher EM value.
However, the twill woven polyester-viscose (65:35)
fabric used here, because of its higher polyester
content, produces more bulk to the component yam
which has resulted more surface to surface friction
and less EM value. Among all the fabrics, heavy
weight polyester suiting fabrics give higher
extensibility than linen fabrics. Extensibility almost
increases with weight, which is mainly due to higher
crimp. With the increase of polyester content, EM
value increases. This may be due to the higher
extensibility of polyester fabric in low load region. In
linen-cotton blended fabrics, the extensibility
decreases with the increase of linen content. It may
be mentioned here that a larger value of EM in warp
causes problems in tailoring due to distortion of
fabric during sewing. Thetrigher the value of
extensibility, the more the difficulty in laying up,
cutting and sewing.
3.3.1.2 Linearity of Tensile Curve(L T)
The linearity of tensile property affects the fabric
extensibility in the initial strain range. Low values of
LT give high fabric extensibility in the initial strain
region but fabric dimensional stability is reduced
which may cause seam puckering. From the results,
it may be observed that polyester-based suiting
fabrics are more extensible than linen-based shirting
fabrics in low-load region. This is due to the high
extensible polyester component.
3.3.1.3 Tensile Resilience(RT) .
RT indicates recovery from tensile deformation.
From the results, it may be seen that in the suiting
fabrics as the polyester content increases, the RT
value decreases. This is because polyester has low
initial modulus. LC and LV fabrics are less resilient
as compared to 100% linen fabric because linen has
very high initial modulus as compared to cotton and
viscose. Also, it may be seen from the results that the
linen-based fabrics are more resilient than polyester-
based fabrics.
3.3.2 Bending Properties
3.3.2.1 Bending Stiffness (B)
Fabrics with higher bending stiffuess show
stronger resistance when bent by the external force
encountered during fabric manipulation in spreading
and sewing. Linen and linen-based fabrics have more
bending stiffness than polyester-based fabrics in low
load region. This is due to the high stiffness of linen
fibre compared to polyester and viscose fibres.
3.3.3 Shearing Properties
3.3.3.1 Shear Rigidity(G)
Polyester-based suiting fabrics have more shear
rigidity than linen-based fabrics. Also, it is found to
increase with the increase in areal density. The
 238 INDIAN 1. FIBRE TEXT. RES., DECEMBER 1998

reason may be that polyester and viscose have higher matty weave of the fabric. However, in the case of
coefficient of friction(J.I.=O.58
and 0.53) as compared
to linen and cotton(J.I.=O.40and 0.22). Therefore, the
rotation of threads at crossover points in low load
region is difficult in polyester-based fabrics as
compared to linen-based fabrics. The higher value of
G causes difficulty in tailoring and discomfort in
wearing.
3.3.3.2 Hysteresis of Shear Force at SOSbearAngle (2HGS)
The results show that suiting fabrics have more
2HG5 than shirting fabrics. The high value of 2HG5
causes trouble in tailoring and wrinkling during
wear.
3.3.4 Frictional Properties
It may be seen from the results that both low-
weight suiting and shirting fabrics have high values
of geometrical roughness because of the greater
surface variation in a unit area due to less thread
density. PVl is having higher geometrical roughness
yet it is having higher weight. It may be due to the
PV2, the surface roughness is lower. This may be
due to the use of twill weave, in which greater
number of floats cause low surface variation in a unit
surface area. Fabrics with different frictional
properties fed during sewing may cause uneven
feeding,which may lead to pucker.
3.4 Sewability
The characteristics of a high quality seam are
strength, elasticity, stability and appearance. These
quality parameters were measured in terms of seam
efficiency,pucker and seam slippage and the results
are given in Table 5. Other relevant fabric
mechanicalproperties are given in Table 6.
3.4.1 Seam Efficiency
The retention of strength in a seamed fabric after
sewing with respect to the original fabric strength is
measured in terms of seam efficiency. With the
increase in fabric strength, the seam efficiency
decreases in both suiting and shirting fabrics because

Table 5----Sewability of suiting and shirting fabrics

Sample code Weight Cover Seam pucker Resistance to seam slippage Seam efficiency
glm2 % N/m %
Suiting fabrics
PVI 278 0.76 4.38 3795 19.77
PV2 228 0.86 II 3668 19.15
PV3 194 0.75 14.56 1550 20.84
PV4 180 0.78 27 1300 32.39
PV5 145 0.67 27.26 1492 38.61
Sblrting fabrics
L1 220 0.79 1.36 3046 26.56
L2 185 0.80 5.78 2286 41.25
LC3 169 0.61 11.41 1829 52.03
LC4 144 0.59 23.89 1326 65.97
LV5 125 0.50 53.16 642 106.81

Table 6-Fabric mechanical properties

Sample Fabric strength Fabric elong. at break Flexural rigidity (Go) Cohesive couple (Co) Co/Go
code N/m % dynes cm2/cm dynescmlcm

PV1 28327 25 190 120 0.63

PV2 28602 25 120 110 0.92
PV3 24902 26 138 84 0.6
PV4 18724 3Q 180 44 0.24
PV5 14667 34 44 44 1.0

L1 13785 15 83 23 0.30
L2 11198 16 60 21 0.35
LC3 10852 18 48 12 0.25
LC4 8657 15 43 13 0.30
LV5 4073 24 38 10 0.26
 BEHERA & SHARMA: LOW-STRESS
the seam efficiency is inversely proportional to the
fabric strength for a given sewing thread. With the
increase in flexural rigidity( Go}and cohesive couple
(Co), the seam efficiency decreases in both suiting
and shirting fabrics because increase in both Go·and
Cocauses increase in fabric strength.
3.4.2 Seam Pucker
Seam pucker is a distortion in the surface of a
sewn fabric and appears as a swollen effect along the
line of the seam. It is determined by measuring the
percentage increase in the thickness of the seamed
fabric over the original fabric under a constant load.
It may be observed from the results that the
puckering consistently decreases with the increase in
fabric weight, cover and thickness in both suiting and
shirting fabrics. This may be due to the increase in
inplane compression resistance. As the values of
flexural rigidity( Go} and cohesive couple( Co}
increase, the seam pucker decreases.
3.4.3 Seam Slippage
A partial or complete loss of seam integrity
manifested by yam slippage parallel to stitch line is
considered as seam slippage. Resistance Of yam
slippage increases with the increase in fabric weight,
cover and thickness of the fabric in both suiting and
shirting fabrics. This may be due to better
interlooping of sewing thread with fabric in both
suiting and shirting fabrics, and higher contact area
due to bulkier mass.
3.S Formability
It is related to minimum compression sustainable
by a fabric before the onset of buckling". The lower
the formability the more likelihood of seam pucker,
because a fabric is unable to accommodate the small
compression placed on the fabric by the sewing
thread. The maximum and minimum limits of fabric
formability also depend on sewing thread, needle
size and thread tension, which were kept constant in
this experiment. The results for formability (fables 3
and 4) clearly show that formability is higher for
higher weight fabrics and lower for lower weight
fabrics. This may be due to the fact -that heavy
weight fabrics have more rigidity which increases
the enplane compression resistance.
3.6 Correlatlbil between SewabiUtyParameten and Low-
stress Properties
A linear correlation was determined between
sewability parameters and low-stress fabric
BEHAVIOUR AND SEWABILITY OF FABRICS 2.39
mechanical properties. The model for regression
equation was taken as:
y=bx+a
where
b= :E(x-xmean)(y- Ymean}
:E(x - xmean}2
a=Ymean-bxmean
SDy SDy
Ypred =--x-r-- Xmean +Ymcan
SDx SDx
if r=O, then Ypre<F Ymean
The higher the r, the more YptUi may vary from Ymean
and the lower the r, the more the Ypred regresses
towards the mean.
:Exy/ N - (xmean) (Ymean)
r = -----==-----'='-
SDx SDy
where SDx =True standard deviation of the 'x' sample
SDy =True standard deviation of the y sample
r = Pearson coefficient of correlation
Ypred = Sewability parameter
X = Low-stress mechanical property
The results for correlation coefficient with various
sewability parameters are given in Table 7 and the
comments on each parameter are given below.
3.6.1 Seam Efficiency
For suiting fabrics, a high negative correlation is
obtained with bending properties. Increase in
bending stiffuess causes increase in fabric strength,
which, in turn, decreases the seam efficiency. The
same reason applies for weight and thickness.
Shearing properties do not influence the seam
efficiency.
For shirting fabrics, the reasons for the
dependence of seam efficiency on bending stiffuess,
weight and thickness are same as for suiting fabrics.
Shearing properties do not influence the seam
efficiency in shirting fabrics also.
3.6.2 Seam Pucker
For suiting fabrics, a very high negative
correlation is obtained between seam pucker and
weight/thickness. Increase in weight and thickness
increases the bending resistance. So, enplane
compression resistance increases and, therefore,
seam pucker value decreases.
A high correlation is found with tensile
resilience(RT) i.e. recovery from tensile deformation.
240 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., DECEMBER 1998

Table 7--Coefficient of correlation between sewability parameters and low-stress mechanical properties

Property Seam efficiency Seam pucker Seam slippage

Suiting Shirting Suiting Shirting Suiting Shirting

EM 0.5 0.16 -0.8 -0.21 -0.01 -0.06

B -0.83 -0.72 0 -0.7 0.77 0.81
HB -0.8 -0.05 -0.74 -0.01 0 0.2
LT -0.81 -0.2 -0.4 -0.13 0.3 0.16
WT -0.03 -0.2 -0.75 -0.22 0.23 0.06
RT 0.91 0.81 0.96 0.77 -0.86 -0.88
LC -0.19 -0.64 -0.43 -0.71 0.62 0.5
WC -0.55 -0.6 -0.44 -0.65 -0.08 -0.46
RC 0.41 0.03 0.112 0.08 0.35 0.3
G -0.33 -0.14 -0.06 -0.12 -0.01 -0.01
2HG -0.37 -0.02 -0.08 -0.03 0.06 0.16
2HGS -0.47 -0.3 -0.3 -0.23 OJ 0.18
MIU -0.41 -0.2 0.01 0.32 0.61 0.1
MMD 0.423 0.42 0.4 0.5 -0.23 -3J
SMD -0.07 -0.7 -0.32 -0.77 0.3 0.5
W -0.86 -0.94 -0.95 -0.9 0.86 0.9
T -0.88 -0.8 -0.93 -0.76 0.60 0.87

RT helps the fabric to return back from stretching at
seam line after sewing.
For shirting fabrics, a high dependence of seam
pucker with fabric weight, tensile resilience, bending
rigidity and thickness is observed. The reasons are
same as stated in the case of suiting fabrics. In a two-
layered fabric, as the geometrical roughness
increases, the value of the seam pucker decreases due
to less chances of slippage of two fabrics on each
other during sewing. Shearing properties do not
influence the seam pucker.
3.6.3 Seam Slippage
For suiting fabrics, the resistance to seam slippage
shows high correlation with bending properties. As
the bending stiffness of fabric increases the contact
area between sewing thread and fabric threads
increases. It may lead to increase in resistance of
seam slippage i.e. it will resist the bodily
displacement of the seam line with respect to threads
parallel to seam line. High dependence of seam
slippage resistance on weight and thickness is due to
the incorporation of coarser threads. The same reason
as for bending is also applicable here.
For shirting fabrics, high dependence of seam
slippage resistance on weight, thickness and bending
stiffness is observed. The reasons are same as in the
case of suiting fabrics. Moderate correlation is found
with geometrical roughness. Due to geometrical
roughness there will be less slippage between sewing
threads and fabric threads and, therefore, the
resistance to seam slippage will be higher.
4 Conclusions
Fabric thickness and cover factor increase with the
increase in fabric weight for all compositions.
Polyester/viscose and polyester/cotton suiting fabrics
give higher breaking strength and elongation as
compared to linen and linen-based fabrics.
Bending stiffness almost increases with the
increase in weight of suiting and shirting fabrics.
Polyester-based fabrics give higher. extensibility
compared to linen-based shirting fabrics, whereas
linen-based fabrics are more. resilient compared to
polyester-based fabrics. Linen-based shirting fabrics
give more bending stiffness as compared to
polyester-based fabrics. Polyester-based fabrics have
more shear rigidity compared to linen-based fabrics.
Low-weight fabrics give higher geometrical
roughness.
Seam efficiency decreases with the increase in
fabric strength, flexural rigidity, cohesive couple,
areal density and thickness. Seam pucker decreases
with the increase in' flexural rigidity and cohesive
couple. It also decreases with the increase in' fabric
weight, cover and thickness in both suiting and
shirting fabrics. Resistance to yam slippage increases
with the increase in fabric weight, cover and
thickness in both suiting and shirting fabrics.
 BEHERA & SHARMA: LOW-STRESS BEHAVIOUR AND SEWABILITY OF FABRlCS 241

A high negative correlation is found between References

seam efficiency and bending properties in both 1 Kawabata S & Newa M,J Text Inst, 83 (3) (1992) 361.
suiting and shirting fabrics. High dependence of 2 Postle R, Text ASia, (7) (1989) 64.
seam efficiency on weight and thickness is also 3 Shishu R L, Text Asia, (2) (1989) 66.
found in both the cases. Seam pucker has a high 4 Behera B K & Hari P K, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 19
negative correlation with bending properties, weight (1994)4.
and thickness. However, shearing properties do not 5
Kawabata S & Newa M, Int J Clothing Sci Technol, 3 (1)
influence the seam pucker. Seam slippage resistance (1991)7.
has a high correlation with bending pr~perties, fabric 6
areal density and thickness. Geometncal roughness . 7 Harlock S C, Text Asia, (7) (1989) 66.
Amirbayat J, J Textlnst, 83 (1992) 2.
also influences the seam slippageresistance. 8 Lindberg J, J Textlnst, 51 (1960) 3.