TRANSMICION 700-r4 PDF

Transmission Identification & Decoding

General Transmission Identification
Transmissions are marked and identified by:
Casting numbers on the case, extention housing and side cover (on manual trans).
Date Casting Codes
Assembly Date Code Stamping - can be stamped anywhere...
Chassis Vin Number stamping - beginning in 1962
Transmissions are also expressed via the RPO number, usually beginning with "M".
Automatic Transmission Identification & Description
Automatic transmission types are generally id'ed by their pan shape.
The THM200 and the THM250 have pans shaped like a THM350, HOWEVER, the THM200 will have
the words HYDRAMATIC DIV. and METRIC stamped into the pan.
Automatic Transmission Description & Usage

THM200 - Light duty, "metric" 3 speed transmission.
THM250 - Used in small 4 cylinder cars (Vega, Sunbird, Monza) from 1973 to 1981 and some
Nova/Camaro/Chevelle 6 cylinders in 1974 & 75. The 4 cylinder models have 4 large cooling holes near
the torque converter, while on the "bigger cars" there are no cooling holes.
THM200-R4 - Used in GM rear wheel drive cars with the 3.8 V6, 305 & 350 Olds and 301 pontiac from
1981 to 1989. This is a 4 speed, overdrive unit.
THM350 - Medium duty 3 speed trans used from 1969 to 1989, Used in Buick, Olds, Pontiac and
Chevrolet cars and Chevy & GMC light trucks until 1987. Generally used in straight and V6 and small
block engines. Generally able to handle up to 400 foot pounds of torque.
file:///C|/My%20Documents/Transmission%20Identification%20&%20Decoding.htm (1 of 6) [4/11/2004 11:59:15 AM]

THM375B - This trans is identical to the THM350, but is considered a heavier duty transmission.
THM375 - This transmission is a derivative of the THM400 sharing the external appearance of the 400.
It'll be marked 375-THM on the bottom of the tailshaft housing. It's a light duty version of the THM400,
has ABSOLUTELY NO RELATION to the THM375B, and was found in 1972 to 1976 full-size cars.
The Turbo 375 was modified to accept the Turbo 350 driveshaft yoke.
THM400 - The THM400 was GM's Heavy-duty 3 speed transmission used from 1964 to 1990. Used on
large displacement, high torque engines and engines with towing packages. Generally found in Chevy &
GM trucks, cadilacs and large displacement engined, full size GM rear wheel drive cars.
THM700-R4 - 4 Speed transmission used in GM cars and light trucks with the 2.8, 3.1, 4.3, V6,
Chevrolet built 305, 350 and 454 engines from 1982 to 1992.
4L60 - Early 1990's saw the 700R4 renamed to the 4L60, and "electronic" models were named 4L60E.
4L60 means 4 forward speeds, L = longitudily mounted (rear wheel drive). 60 is the strength rating (less
than the 4L80).
3L80 - The 3L80 is a renamed THM400, used in the early 1990's. The 3L80HD would be the THM475
(heavy duty unit).
4L80 - An overdrive model of the THM400. The 4L80E would be the "electronic" model.
Transmissions with a suffix of "C" on the end of the type (THM200C) indicate the transmission has a
lock up torque converter.
Automatic Transmission Identification & Decoding
Specific methods of identification are as follows (and yes, this section needs to be rewritten).... Some
transmissions have a code stamped onto them. Others have a tag rivited to the case.
Most transmissions will have a "source serial number" (chassis vin) usually found close to the
transmission code. This number will contain division ID #, model year, assembly plant and production
sequence (last 6 digits) of the VIN stamped onto the transmission. Example: 19N500001. The source
serial number is from the CAR the transmission originally went into, NOT the assembly plant.
Location of source serial number
On the THM350, the VIN will be stamped on either the drivers side housing near the shifter, on the right

side of the housing just above the pan, or on a boss behind the bellhousing flange on the passenger side
of the transmission.
On the THM400 the VIN is stamped on a machined surface just above the pan on the drivers side.
On the THM200-R4 the VIN is stamped onto the housing towards the rear of the pan, on the drivers side.
On the THM700-R4 the VIN is either stamped onto a boss behind the bellhousing flange on the
passenger side, just above the pan on the drivers side, or just behind the governor cover, stamped
vertically where the case meets the tailshaft housing.
Prior to 1967, transmission ID numbers contained the plant prefix code, month and date of production
(expressed numerically) and a shift code (D = Day, N = Night). From 1967 on, the ID number contained
the transmission type or plant prefix, Date (coded below) and a shift code. The constants in decoding the
trans ID number are the date the transmission was produced.
Pre-67 Example: C213N - (C = Cleveland Powerglide, February 13, Night Shift)

Post-67 Example: P9E03 - (P = TYPE, 9 = year (1969), E = Month, 03 = Day of Month)
Month code: (NOTICE this is NOT in alphabetic order)

A = Jan, B = Feb, C = Mar, D = Apr, E = May, H = Jun, K = Jul, M = Aug, P = Sep, R = Oct, S = Nov, T
= Dec
The dropbox contains Camaro transmission codes. What SHOULD have been installed, or what
was offered for the year selected.
1967 Transmission Codes View Selected Code
Manual Transmission Identification & Description
Manual Transmission Eyeballing
Muncie (left) Saginaw (center) Borg Warner (right)

To quickly finger what you have, notice in the above picture:

The muncie reverse lever is in the extention housing, and the cover has 7 bolts.
The Saginaw reverse shift lever is on the cover, and the cover has 7 bolts.
The Borg Warner has a 9 bolt cover.
Muncies are the hot tip, since they usually were used with high performance engines. Again on the
muncie, and looking at the cover, 3rd/4th gear lever is on the left. 1st/2nd gear lever is on the right.
Further Muncie identification

3 Muncie 4 speeds were offered. The M-20 wide ratio, the M-21 close ratio, and the "Extra heavy duty
close ratio" M-22, also known as the "Rock Crusher". The M-22 was generally installed behind severely
powerful (high torque) big-block engines. The M-22 is distinguished from an M-21 by the angle of the
gear teeth. The M-22 has "straight cut" gears. Due to this, the box tends to be noiser (whines or howls
almost like a blower, which is why it's called a "rock crusher") than other boxes. The M-21 has a higher
pitch angle on its gear teeth.
The close ratio gearboxs generally came with 3.73+ gear ratio'ed cars. 3.55 geared and higher
(numerically lower) cars used the wide ratio gearbox.
Due to the wide combination of id's, stampings, numbers, etc... varied and even GM couldn't keep track
of what was what, it's best to ID your gearbox visually, taking what is stamped on the box FWIW. The
best way to ID the transmission is to count teeth.
Muncie 4 speed spline, groove and tooth count characteristics.

Cluster
Input
Gear
Input Input Gear Output Gear
Type/Year Tooth
Spline Groove Tooth Spline Ratio
Count
Count
29-22-19-
M20: 1963 - 65 10 none 24 27 Note 1
17
25-22-19-
M20: 1966 - 70 10 2 21 27 Note 2
17
25-22-19-
M20: 1971 - 74 26 2 21 32 Note 2
17
27-22-19-
M21: 1963 - 70 10 1 26 27 Note 3
17

27-22-19-
M21: 1971 - 74 26 1 26 32 Note 3
17
27-22-19-
M22: 1965 - 70 10 none 26 27 Note 3
17
27-22-19-
M22: 1971 - 72 26 none 26 32 Note 3
17
Note 1: M-20 gear ratio: 1st 2.56:1, 2nd 1.91:1, 3rd 1.48:1, 4th direct
Note 2: M-20 gear ratio: 1st 2.52:1, 2nd 1.88:1, 3rd 1.46:1, 4th direct, Rev 2.59:1.
Note 3: M-21/22 gear ratio: 1st 2.20:1, 2nd 1.64:1, 3rd 1.28:1, 4th direct, Rev 2.27:1
Effective October 21, 1968, an additional letter was added to the plant prefix number to help identify the
gear ratios in Muncie transmissions. The additional letter codes as follows:
Muncie 3 speed Manual Muncie 4 speed manual transmissions

Suffix 1st gear ratio Suffix 1st gear ratio
A 3.03:1 A 2.52:1 wide range
B 2.42:1 B 2.20:1 close range
C 2.20:1 Rock Crusher
More info: Marks comprehensive Muncie Info
Of course like engines, transmissions come and go over time, so below is the (as complete as I can make
it) transmission plant prefix list:
Plant Type Prefix Plant Type Prefix

Cleveland Manual Powerglide A Saginaw overdrive O
Cleveland Turbo Hydramatic B Warner Gear 3 & 4 speed P
Cleveland Powerglide C Muncie 4 speed P
Hydramatic Turbo Hydramatic CA Muncie 4 speed R
Saginaw Overdrive D Saginaw 4 speed R
McKinnon Powerglide E Muncie 3 speed S
Muncie 3 speed H Saginaw 3 speed S
McKinnon 3 speed K Toledo Powerglide T
GM of Canada Turbo Hydramatic L Cleveland Turbo Hydramatic X

Muncie 3 speed and Overdrive M Toledo Turbo Hydramatic Y

Muncie 4 speed N
Last updated: 6/4/1998

Rewritten: 10/5/2001
Author: MadMike Maciolek
Email: madmike@nastyz28.com
Return to Main Page
© 1997 - 2002 North Georgia Classic Camaro (tm)

All rights reserved

700-R4 Diagnosis Fundamentals
4L60 (700-R4) Diagnosis Fundamentals
Lets first talk about the difference between a 4L60, and a 700-R4. The only real difference is the
name. A 4L60 is a 700-R4. The name only changed to better identify the transmission. The four
meaning it has four gears (1-3 plus overdrive). The "L" for longitudaly mounted (as compared to
Transverse on a FWD car). "60" is the relative torque value. For example, 80 is stronger than 60,
which is stronger than 40, etc... A 4L80-E can handle more torque than a 4L60-E. The "E" you are
seeing in the last sentence denotes it is electronically shifted by a computer. Since the 4L60 is
hydraulically shifted based on governor pressure and TV cable position, it is delete the "E" at the end.
With that said, lets move on.
This was not intended to diagnose your tranny for you. Diagnosing can be very complex, and even
give the best of us a difficult time. This was only intended to help you understand what is going on,
and help you decide between possible causes, and rule out definite no's. If you are unfamiliar with the
4L60, the Clutch and Band Application Chart will be your best friend. You must first distinguish
which gears are working properly, and then distinguish which are not. Then, by using the Clutch and
Band chart, you will be able to narrow down possible causes by eliminating unaffected items. Take a
look:
http://www.sethirdgen.org/tranny.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:29:21 PM]

Ok, now lets look at a common problem with the 4L60. Here are the symptoms:
Reverse works good. Starts out in first good, shifts normally into second, then right before shifting
into third, RPMs go soaring. The vehicle is slipping badly. As the vehicle slows down, it goes back
into second. Using those symptoms, lets rule out what can't be bad.
Reverse works good. Look and see what is applied in reverse. We now know that the reverse input
clutch, and the lo-reverse clutch is OK, since we have reverse. Cross them out.
Starts out in first good. Go back to the chart. We can see that the forward clutch must be good, the
forward sprag must be OK, and the lo-roller clutch should be OK. Cross them out.
Shifts into second normally. Go to the chart. We already know from first gear, that the forward clutch
and forward sprag are OK, but now we have the 2-4 band being applied. But since we have second
also, then the band is OK.
Now take a look at the difference between second and third. Remember, we lost third gear. Notice the
2-4 band disengages, but the 3-4 clutch applies. By using this chart, we can pinpoint that the 3-4
clutches are slipping. Either they are burnt, or the apply piston has a blown seal, or whatever. So by
using this chart, we can also assume that we don't have fourth either.

This is an easy one, they get much more complex. Shifting problems are a whole new ball game.
Because you need hydraulic schematics of the valvebody, pump, and what they control, I won't go into
it. Most shifting problems can be traced to the valvebody, and the two main factors that influence it.
The TV Cable, and the Governor. These will come in another installment, right now, try and digest
this much.
Think you got the hang of it? Try this one on for size. The symptoms:
Put the shifter in Overdrive (OD) and vehicle will not move, the engine just revs up. Reverse works
OK. The vehicle will pull foward and move in Third, Second, and First, but not in the OD position.
Give up? Since the car will go in revese, and pull foward in Third, Second, and First, we know the
pump is good, the reverse clutches are good, the foward clutch is good, but take a look at the difference
is first gears for OD, and Third. Notice that for Third, Second, and First, the overrun clutch is applied.
The purpose of the overrun clutch in essence is to lock the sprag together, so that there is engine
braking. Because of this, we can deduce that in OD, the foward sprag was not holding like it was
supposed to, but by putting it into Third, the overrun clutch applies, thus overriding the sprag allowing
the car to move foward. The sprag is faulty and needs replaced.
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]

Technical Database
Technical Resource Database
General Information:
Frequently Asked Thirdgen Questions (FAQ)
VIN Decoder
Reading "Trouble Codes"
Understanding VATS (PassKey)
The Lowdown on EGR Part I
EGR Part II
Diagnosisng 700-R4 Fundamentals
Shopping for TPI conversion parts
Third Gen Performance Data
Rear Axle Information
Third Generation F-body Production Numbers
How to... :
http://www.sethirdgen.org/trd.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:31:06 PM]

Technical Database
-SUSPENSION/DRIVELINE
Install Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets (requires Java)
Box your LCA's
Install a Wonder Bar
GM 10-bolt build-up Part I
GM 10-bolt build-up Part II
GM 10-bolt Part III (installing it)
Install a T56 transmission
-INTERIOR
Replace a Heater Core
Replace a Dashpad
Installing White Faced Gauges
-ENGINE/FUEL
"Ultimate" TB Coolant Bypass
Set Minimum Air (TPI Engines)
Set TPS
Replace your Vbelts with a Serpentine setup
Replace an A/C compressor shaft seal (requires Java)
Siamese/Port your TPI base
Swap an LT1 intake onto your SBC!
Install a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor
Replace your 100 amp alternator w/ a whopping 140 Amp!

Technical Database
-BODY
Fix sagging doors
Replace your broken Air Dam
Fix clearcoat scratches NEW!!!
Install a Strut Tower Brace
Replace a Convertible Top NEW!!!
-TRANSMISSION
Adjust a TV Cable
Tranny Upgrade Part I: Corvette Servo
Replace Speedo Gears (Automatic)
Replace Speedo Gears (T-5 transmission) NEW!!!
[Home]

Third Gen F-body Frequently Asked Questions
Thirdgen F-body FAQ
General Questions:
What options did my car come with?
-The best way to tell what options your car came with from the factory is to find the SPID Label (Service Parts IDentification) also
known as the RPO codes. It will list "codes" for all options available that were installed from the factory. The most common place
for this sticker was in the center console. There have been reports of them also being stuck in the rear storage compartment, but
mostly in the center console. Each code will indicate a specific option, or group of options. For example, N10 was the code for dual
converters, and G80 was the code for limited slip, but code G92 was a performance package that included both options (the options
will still be listed separately, in conjunction with the package code). GM produced books that list all of the option codes, as well as
other websites. If you cannot find your SPID label, you may be able to go to the nearest GM Dealer and have them look up your
VIN number and they may be able to retrieve your codes.
How many (insert your car here) were made?

-Thats not an easy question to answer. GM didn't keep track of how many cars were made with certain options. Major combinations
like how many T-Top cars, or how many Z28s or how many 350's were recorded, but if your looking for how many Purple RS's with
Gray Leather, LO3 engine, M30 Transmission, GU5 axle were made, forget about it. Production numbers didn't get that detailed.
To see a list of some production numbers, click HERE.
Can I run dual exhaust on my car?

-Technically, yes you can. Is it easy or necessary? Thats in the eye of the beholder. Exhaust can get pretty cramped under a
thirdgen as it is, let alone a pair of exhaust pipes. Not to mention, "studies" have been done, and supposedly, dual exhaust isn't
needed or even provide benefit until 450+ HP. A decent mandrel bent 3" single exhaust will support what most people put under the
hood, so unless you have a real radical setup, true dual exhaust is not needed. But if your really set on being like your buddies
Mustang, it can, and has been done before. Oval tubing has been developed that will allow two pipes run side by side without
taking up as much space. Ideally, you want to run the pipes over the axles. I have seen setups that had straight pipes run under the
rear axle which is not desirable.
What will my car run at the track?

-A lot of that has to do with year, engine, tranny, equipped options, driver, and of course, what modifications have been done, if
any. Its really hard to say what a given car will run due to the amount of variables involved. I have seen stock 350's run 15's in the
quarter mile, and I have seen modded 305's run 13's. Its all about engine output, driver ability, vehicle weight, etc... To see what a
few stock thirdgens have been reported to run based on magazine publishers testing, click HERE.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/faq.htm (1 of 5) [4/10/2004 11:32:43 PM]

Why does my car appear to run hot?

-Before you start chasing a problem, make sure it really is running hot. The stock gauges in these cars leave much to be desired. Its
very possible that the gauge is inaccurate, giving you false readings. If a scantool is available to you, you may want to monitor the
scantool's reading of coolant temp and compare it to the gauge. Also be aware that the ECM, with stock calibration, will not turn the
fan on until 225°. If you have dual fans, the secondary fan will not come on until over 230°! So the car may appear to be running
hot, but its actually performing as designed. However, if you are in doubt, it would behoove you to get it checked out. Its better to
have it checked and there be nothing wrong, then to forget about it and really have a problem!
How can I make my fans come on sooner?

-There are really two ways that have been accepted into the Third Generation community. The first and most reliable is to have the
EPROM (computer chip) reprogrammed with lower fan temp settings. Aftermarket chip makers sell chips with lower settings,
which usually include a lower thermostat. Anybody who does chip burning on there own can also perform this function. This is
most desirable because once the chip is burned, its idiot proof. There is no user input required. Once the ECM sees the coolant temp
get to the specified value, it will turn the fans on.
The second method is to install a manual fan switch. This usually involves installing a toggle switch inline to the relay signal wire
and ground. This is effective, however, you must turn the fan on and off manually every time. Also, if you have completely
disabled ECM control over the relay, forgetting to trip the toggle switch could prove disastrous. Most people that use a toggle
switch tap into the ECM control wire, so that the ECM can provide a backup, incase the switch fails or the user forgets to turn it on.
Engine/Performance/Drivability
What engines were available, what did my car come with?
-There were several engine options available. This included a four cylinder, various V6 combinations and a plethora of V8s. There
are two ways to know what the stock engine/induction combination was. The easiest is to look at the VIN, or you could also find
your sticker containing RPO codes. The engine code in the VIN is the eight character, and usually the engine RPO code will start
with the letter "L". To see what VIN character or RPO's were used sorted by year, click HERE.
How can I make my car faster?

-This is a loaded question. First you have to decide how far you want to go and how much you want to spend. When it comes to
speed, the sky is the limit, but it all comes with a price. You can do simple "bolt-on" mods like a "high-flow" air filter, lower
thermostat, etc... for not a lot of money, but you will also get minimal gains. You can increase your budget and pick up items like
headers, cat-back exhaust and perhaps a higher flowing intake manifold. For even more gains (and of course money) you can go for
a larger camshaft, high flow cylinder heads, etc... For those wanting lots of speed, you could get a Nitrous kit, or a supercharger or
turbo. Manufacturers make a variety of performance parts for almost any engine. It doesn't have to be limited to just the engine
either. You could try different rear axle gears, better tires, suspension mods, etc...
Can I swap my V6 for a V8?

-Absolutely! Its a big undertaking, but a very common swap. Many things will have to be addressed, like induction system, wiring,
transmission, exhaust, etc... If you can find a V8 car that has been totaled for a donor, thats a good way to have most of the parts you
need handy, not to mention you can see where everything needs to go. Obviously, the V6 intake/fuel system won't work on a V8, so
you can swap in the TPI assembly, TBI or carburetor, whichever you prefer. You will need the proper wiring to go with the
induction system. V6 F-bodies had a 60° bellhousing pattern, which means that the V8 will not bolt to it. Therefore, you will need
to find a tranny that shares the same 90° bellhousing, such as another V8 or the 4.3L V6. The stock exhaust from the catalytic
converter and back will work, but you will need the V8 manifolds or upgrade to headers. There are many other things to consider, to
much to list here, but it can be done!

What type of rockers arms do I need?

-You'll have to look under your valvecovers to find out for sure, but most use self-aligning rocker arms. There needs to be some
method of keeping the rocker centered on the tip of the valve stem. Two methods are used. One is to use guideplates and non, self-
aligning rockers, which will keep the pushrod from moving, which in turn keeps the rocker arm steady. The other method is to not
use guideplates and use a self-aligning rocker to keep it centered. If the cylinder head does not have guideplates, then you must use
self-aligning rockers. You can tell a self-aligning rocker as it will have "guides" or walls on both sides of where the valvestem
contacts the rocker.
Do I have an engine oil cooler?

-If you have an oil cooler from the factory, you will have RPO code "KC4". Another way to tell is by looking right above your oil
filter. If there is a piece sandwiched between the filter and the block with coolant lines plumbed to it, you have a cooler. Coolant
that had passed through the radiator after being cooled is routed through the oil filter adapter to cool the oil.
What is setting "Minimum Air and TPS?"

Minimum air is the adjustment of how many RPM's the car will idle at when the Idle Air Controller is fully seated. This is important
because if its to low, the car will stall, usually when coming to a stop or after being revved, and if its to high, the idle will be too high
and the computer will not have proper control over the idle. Setting the TPS, if its adjustable, is also important because there is a
voltage range that the computer needs to see at idle and if the minimum air was adjusted (throttle plates opened or closed) then the
TPS voltage will be incorrect. You must set the minimum air first, then the TPS. To find out how to perform these, check out the
tech articles.
What do I do when my "Check Engine Light" comes on?

-First, don't panic, the light came on because some sort of failure has been detected, but it shouldn't mean your stranded. Second, all
you need to do to find out why it came on (or at least a general idea) is to find yourself a paper clip, and read this article: Checking
DTCs
What is a MAT/IAT sensor?

-These are the same sensors, just different names. MAT stands for Manifold Air Temperature and IAT stands for Intake Air
Temperature. They measure the temperature of the Air in the Intake Manifold. This is an input to the ECM for determining proper
calculations for air/fuel mixture.
Can I relocate my MAT sensor?

-This is a common modification to "richen" up the fuel mixture. Normally, the MAT sensor screws into the bottom of the TPI
plenum, which can get very hot. Its not uncommon, when viewed with a scantool, to see MAT temperatures over 100° even when
the outside air temp is much lower. By relocating the sensor to a much cooler place, it will register the incoming air as a much lower
temp (and much denser) and cause the computer to add more fuel. With either an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or the ability to
burn your own computer chips, relocating the sensor isn't required.
What size throttle body should I use?

-This is an often debated question. The stock size is 48mm, used on both the 305 and the 350. General rule of thumb is for anything
less then a 383, use a 52mm. 383 and above, use the 58mm throttle body. Using to large of a throttle body is just like using to big of
a carburetor. If the engine cannot support the added airflow, then it will not give you any gains, and can actually hurt performance
and cause drivability to suffer.
What are the coolant lines running in front of my engine?

-If you have these, you have an engine oil cooler. They are coolant lines that run in front of the engine, and back to the oil filter

assembly where the coolant cools the oil as it goes through the oil filter adapter.
Do I really need a 4-bolt block?

-General rule of thumb is unless you realisticly plan on running over 500HP or plan on turning lots of RPMs, a two bolt block will
suffice just fine. Most street combinations are well under 500 HP, and never go past 6,000 RPMs, so most street setups will be just
fine with a two bolt. It doesn't hurt to run a four-bolt, just cost a little extra.
Can I use the Corvette Aluminum L98 heads on my car?

-Absolutely! These are great heads to boost perforamnce. They are aluminum and feature 58cc combustion chambers which will
boost up the compression. The only drawback to these heads is the lack of EGR provisions. If you want to use these heads and
remain emission legal, you will need to have the EGR externally plumbed. If your using TPI, you can simply use a Corvette TPI
base and plumb exhaust into the port provided. Vortec TPI base has the same provisions and the adapter pipe can be purchased from
the same supplier as the base.
Transmission/Rear Axle
Can I swap out my auto tranny for a manual?
-Yes you can! There was a very detailed article written about how to perfrom an auto to T-5/T-56 swap. You can read it HERE.
Did my car come with an aluminum driveshaft?

-One way to tell is to get under the car and look. The aluminum will have a gray/silver color to it and a magnent will not stick to it.
The steel driveshaft will probably be rusty and a magnent will stick to it. Another way to tell is look for RPO code "JG1". This
indicates that the car came from the factory with the aluminum driveshaft.
Why won't my car shift into OD at Wide Open Throttle?

-Most 700R4s will not let you hold fourth gear at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Some of the high performance models allowed you
to do this, as well as the Police Car packages like that found in the Caprices upfitted for police use. There are two ways to allow
your car to hold 4th at WOT. You can either install the "Police Package Correction kit" which is available from your GM Dealer, or
you can either block the Detent passage in your Throttle valve plunger bushing, or just replace the plunger bushing with an
aftermarket one from companies like Superior. The GM Valve kit is P/N 8671953. It replaces the 3-4 shift valvetrain. Or you can
use the Throttle Valve bushing from Superior, or you can modify your existing bushing, but it requires alot of work, you may just
want to buy the aftermarket one!
What gears do I have?

-There are several ways to find out. Assuming you have a 26" tire, you can travel at 70 MPH with your tranny in the 1:1 ratio (3rd
gear for 700R4s, 4th gear for T-5 manuals). When you reach 70MPH, assuming your tachometer is correct, look at your RPMs. An
RPM reading of 2,730 +/- would indicate 2.73 gears. 3,230 RPMs +/- would indicate 3.23s; 3,420 = 3.42; 3,730 = 3.73, etc...
Assuming your rear end/ gears are stock, you could either look at your RPO codes, or look on the axle itself for the Axle Code.
Click HERE for more info on Axle/RPO codes.
Finally, and the mos accurate way to know for sure what your gear ratio is, is to remove the ring and pinion and count the teeth.
Take the number of ring gear teeth and divide by the number of pinion teeth. Usually you can see these numbers stamped on the
head of the pinion.

How do I install a Posi?

-You can either replace the whole carrier w/ a limited slip unit like the Eaton or Auburn, or get an OEM unit like the Torsen take-
outs for sale on the SLP website. This will require removal of the ring gear, being transfered over to the new carrier and resetting up
the rear end. Since carrier sizes can differ due to manufacturing tolerances, you MUST setup the rearend as though you were
installing a new ring and pinion. You'll want to make a backlash measurement and tooth pattern contact BEFORE dissasembly, and
put it back together to acheive the same readings. You also must get proper side bearing pre-load. To find out more about setting up
rearends, click HERE.
What tranny do I have?

-First you need to determine if its a manual or automatic transmission. If its an auto, there were two available. The 200C and the
700R-4. Only early thirdgens had the 200C, and it was a three-speed, so if you have a 3 speed auto, it was a 200C (not to be
confused w/ a 2004-R) and if it was a 4-speed auto, it was a 700R-4/4L60 (not to be confused w/ a 4L60-E). There were also a 4-
speed manual and a 5-speed manual. Only the early thirdgens had the 4-speed manual.
How much fluid does my Automatic Transmisson hold?

-Completely empty, the 700R-4/4L60 holds 11 quarts. After just a filter change, it holds 4-5 quarts.
Why does my tranny shift funny?

-There are numerous problems that can cause the transmission to not act properly. It could be something simple like the TV Cable
not being adjusted properly, or could even be something more serious than a shift problem, but actually burnt clutches or broken
parts. If it shifts late and hard or soft and early, try adjusting the TV Cable first. Not sure how? Click HERE. If its still shifting late
and hard and the adjustment didn't help, you have have the Throttle Valve itself stuck in the valvebody. This is a common problem
w/ the 700R-4. As it sits in the car, there isn't much you can do about it to fix it, other than yank on the cable a few times or ride it
out hoping it frees up. The only way to fix it for good is to install a TransGo Reprogramming kit. In the kit, it has a patented "self
cleaning" Throttle valve w/ booster springs. If its not shifting at all, you might have a stuck governer. You can try removing it and
seeing if the valve in the center moves freely. It may not even be a shift problem at all. If the vehicle slips on the 2-3 shift, or has a
"flare", it may not be the "shift" but the clutches slipping. This would require an overhaul.
Whats the difference in T-5 transmissions?

-There were two available: The Borg Warner T-5 and the World Class T-5. GM started using the "non World Class" T-5 tranny in
the thirdgens starting in 1983. Starting in 1998, the World Class T-5 made its appearance in the thirdgens. The WC T-5 was much
stronger and a more desireable tranny.
Suspension
Interior/Exterior

Vin Decoder
VIN Decoder
No F-body website is complete without its own version of a VIN decoder, so here it is.
Character: 1 G 2 F W 2 1 8 0 H N 0 0 0 0 0 1
Position: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
1982-1984
Position: Meaning: Value:
1 Country 1 = USA
2 = Canada
2 Manufacturer G = General Motors
3 Make 1 = Chevrolet
2 = Pontiac
4 Restraints A = Manual Belts
B = Automatic Belts
5 Carline P = Sport Coupe, Z28
S = Berlinetta
S = Firebird
W = Trans Am
X = Trans Am Special Edition

6 Body type 87 = 2 Door Coupe
7 Body type Used with postion six.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/vin.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:32:46 PM]

Vin Decoder
8 Engine F = 151ci, L4 (LQ8)
2 = 151ci, L4 (LQ9)
1 = 173ci, V6 (LC1)
H = 305ci, V8 (LG4)
G = 305ci, V8 (L69)
7 = 305ci, V8 (LU5)[1982]
S = 305ci, V8 (LU5)[1983]
9 Check Digit The number produced when all numbers and characters(converted to numbers) are added
up untill it is down to a single digit (ex. 12345=15=6)
10 Model Year C = 1982
D = 1983
E = 1984
11 Plant N = Norwood
L = Van Nuys
12-17 Production Sequence This is a number assigned to the car during production
1985-1986
1 Country 1 = USA
2 = Canada
2 = Pontiac
4 Carline F = F-body

Vin Decoder
5 Carline series P = Sport Coupe, Z28
S = Berlinetta
S = Firebird
W = Trans Am
X = T/A Special Edition

6 Body type 87 = 2 door coupe
7 Body type Used with position six
8 Engine 2 = 151ci, L4 (LQ9)
1 = 173ci, V6 (LB8)[1985]
S = 173ci, V6 (LB8)[1986]
F = 305ci, V8 (LB9)[Tuned Port Injection]
H = 305ci, V8 (LG4)[4BBL]
G = 305ci, V8 (L69)[4BBL HO}

9 Check digit The number produced when all numbers and characters(converted to numbers) are added
up untill it is down to a single digit (ex. 12345=15=6)
10 Model Year F = 1985
G = 1986
11 Assembly Plant N = Norwood
L = Van Nuys
1987-1992
1 Country 1 = USA
2 = Canada
2 = Pontiac

Vin Decoder
4 Carline F = F-body
5 Carline series P = Camaro (all models)
S = Firebird
W = Trans Am
6 Body type 2 = 2 door coupe
3 = Convertible
7 Restraints 1 = Manual Belts
3 = Manual Belts, Drivers Air Bag
4 = Automatic belts
8 Engine S = 173ci, V6 (LB8)[1987-1989]
T = 191ci, V6 (LH0)[1990-1992]
H = 305ci, V8 (LG4)[4BBL][1987]
E = 305ci, V8 (LO3)[TBI][1988-1992]
F = 305ci, V8 (LB9)[Tuned Port Injection]
8 = 350ci, V8 (L98)[Tuned Port Injection]

9 Check Digit The number produced when all numbers and characters(converted to numbers) are added up
untill it is down to a single digit (ex. 12345=15=6)
10 Model Year H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
11 Assembly Plant N = Norwood[1987]
L = Van Nuys
[Tech Index] [Home]

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
GM DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)
What is a DTC? A DTC is a diagnostic Trouble Code. The computers used on Third Generation F-bodies are considered OBD-I
(First Generation On Board Diagnostics). They are called that, because not only do they control the engine management system,
but also is capable of performing a self-diagnostics of the engine management. For example, the ECM (Electronic Control Module)
uses the Oxygen Sensor (O2 Sensor) to monitor exhaust gas for being to rich or lean. If the computer feels that the conditions are
right for the sensor to be malfunctioning, it will set a DTC 13 (O2 Sensor circuit fault). Once a DTC is set, the Check engine light will
illuminate. There are many acronyms for the Check engine light such as CEL, MIL, SES, but we will use CEL (check engine light).
How do I pull DTC's? This is simple. You don't even need an expensive scan-tool or code reader, just a simple paper clip.
Locate the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Lead). It is usually under the drivers side of the dash. It may have a cover over it, and
may even say "Diagnostic Connector".
This is the ALDL. The two terminals that you need to be

concerned with is in the picture. It is terminals "A" and "B".
Simply turn the Ignition to "Run" (Do not start the vehicle) and
put the paper clip in the two terminals. Now watch your CEL. It
will start flashing. It will look like Morse Code, but it isn't, and is
real easy to interpret.
The first code that will flash will be a code 12. It will be "flash, pause, flash, flash, pause, pause," and repeat the cycle three times.
The ECM will flash each code three times, and move on to the next. If you have no codes stored, it will keep flashing code 12. Code
12 simply tells you the ECM is not receiving any pulses from the distributor (since the car is not running). If you pull codes with a
scantool and the car is running, this code will not show up. Its no big deal, it lets you know the ECM is in the "Field Service Mode"
You will also notice the cooling fans come on, this is normal.
What do I do with the Codes? This is less simple. OBD-I codes are very vague, and diagnosis sometimes isn't that simple.
Most people think that a code 32 (EGR system) means the EGR valve is bad and needs replaced. This isn't always so!!! There are
many components in the EGR system that could cause the code to set OTHER than the EGR valve itself! Below is a list of codes and
what they mean.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/dtc.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:32:52 PM]

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
Code: Meaning:
12 No Distributor pulses
13 Oxygen sensor
14 Coolant Temp sensor circuit
15 Coolant Temp sensor circuit
21 Throttle Position Sensor
22 Throttle Position Sensor
23 Manifold Air temperature sensor
24 VSS (Vehicle Speed sensor)
25 Manifold Air temperature sensor
32 EGR system
33 MAP sensor or MAF sensor depending on engine
34 MAP sensor or MAF sensor depending on engine
35 Idle Air Control Valve
36 MAF Burn-off circuit
41 No Distributor pulses, cylinder select error
42 Electronic Spark Timing or Bypass fault
43 Electronic Spark Control fault
44 Lean exhaust
45 Rich exhaust
46 VATS system fault
51 PROM fault
52 CALPAK fault
53 System over-voltage
54 Fuel pump circuit
55 ECM fault
61 Oxygen sensor fault (degraded sensor)
[Tech Index] [Home]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/dtc.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:32:52 PM]

VATS/PassKey
Understanding GM VATS (PassKey)
This system seems to cause much confusion, stress, and misery. Hopefully, this will help elevate
some of that. VATS stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. It is commonly referred to as
PassKey. Later versions include PassKeyII, PassKeyIII and PassLock (which uses no resistor
"pellet"). GM first introduced VATS in 1985 on the Chevrolet Corvette, and after proving
successful, was later introduced in other models in later years. Lets break it down even further:
Operation: Operation is fairly simple, but lets discuss what all makes up the PassKey system.
The most obvious part is the key. The ignition key as a little "chip" in it. This is a resistor
"pellet". There are 15 possible resistances, therefore 15 different types of keys each with a
different resistance. This reduces the likelihood of a potential thief from having the correct
resistance resistor on hand. Then you have to have a special lock cylinder to "read" the key. I
use the term "read" loosely, because it does anything but read the key. I will explain more later.
Next is the VATS module. It does most of the security work. It is the "brains" of the system.
The module is what actually "reads" the resistance, but has to do it via the contacts in the lock
cylinder and the related wiring. Think of the module as a Multimeter, and the wires and
contacts the Multimeter Leads. The module reads the resistance and determines if the resistance
is the correct value. The module will go into several modes, depending on what the module sees.
There is "Tamper" "Normal" and "Fail Enable".
Normal: Normal is when the correct resistance is seen during cranking and the module will
ground the Start enable relay, and send a "Fuel Enable" signal to the ECM. This basically
"turns on" the injectors. If the Fuel Enable signal is lost or not sent, the injectors will never
pulse. The signal is a unique "Pulse Width Modulated" signal, which is a series of rapidly
switched "on" and "off" voltages that would be near impossible to duplicate. Once the relay is
grounded, voltage is allowed to the "S" terminal of the starter, and the ECM is told to pulse the
injectors and the car starts.
Tamper: This mode happens when the vehicle is cranked, and the resistance value as seen by the
module is not the same as the value stored in the module. When this happens, the module shuts
down for 4 minutes. Even if the correct resistance is then seen, the car will not start for the 4
http://www.sethirdgen.org/vats.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:33:01 PM]

VATS/PassKey
minute "time-out". The security light will also illuminate for the 4 minutes. The Start Enable
Relay will not energize and the Fuel Enable signal will not be sent. HINT: if the key pellet is
dirty, it will put the module in the "Tamper" mode. If your car fails to crank/start and the
security light comes on, try cleaning the pellet, wait 4 minutes, and try again.
Fail Enable: This mode is to help keep the motorist with the right key from being stranded. If a
failure happens to the PassKey system AFTER a valid start, this mode is initiated. It allows the
vehicle to be restarted, even with a failure present. The security light will remain illuminated to
let you know a failure is present. However, this also means that the car can be started w/o a key,
and is vulnerable to potential thieves.
Lets take a look at the basic setup.
Diagnosis:
If your car doesn't want to crank and the security light comes on, here are a few things that may
hopefully get you back on the road:
First, make sure the pellet is clean. A dirty pellet will give a higher resistance than what the VATS
module expects to see, and assumes it is the wrong key.
Check all of your fuses. If a fuse is blown or missing, it can cause a security problem.

VATS/PassKey
Obtain a multimeter and measure the resistance of the key. Then remove the hush panel on the drives
side of the dash and find the wires that go to the lock cylinder (usually two thin white wires, sometimes
with orange insulation around both). Now measure the resistance at the two wires with the key in the
ignition. If it doesn't come within a few Ohms of the original key resistance, the lock cylinder is bad.
If the resistance comes up OK, measure it again, this time while moving the key from "Off" to "crank"
several times. Any fluctuation in resistance means a bad lock cylinder. This is the most common
cause of failure. The wire are anchored to the stationary steering column, but attached to a rotating
lock cylinder and over time, the wire breaks inside the insulation and usually becomes "open" in the
crank position. This is read by the module as an incorrect resistance.
These are the basics of VATS diagnostics. If the problem is not found, it will have to be taken to a
reputable repair facility.
Bypassing: I do not endorse bypassing the VATS system, therefore I will not go into great detail about
it. Working at a dealership, I see tons of theft recoveries that never make it out of the parking lot
thanks to the VATS system. It works. Bypassing the system makes your car very vulnerable to
potential thieves. Consider the cost of having the system fixed properly, to never seeing your car again,
or in a ditch totalled. It happens. Bypassing involves finding the resistance of your key, and using a
resistor in place if the lock cylinder, thereby fooling the module into thinking the correct key is in
place, or bypassing the Start inhibit relay and disabling VATS in the EPROM. Although I don't
reccomend doing this, I can perform this service, just drop me an email.

EGR part I
The Lowdown on Code 32 (EGR)
Ok, here is the deal, your cruisin’ down the road at 70 Mph, you got the T-Tops
out and the stereo blaring. Life is grand. Then out of nowhere comes that annoying
bright orange “Service Engine Soon” light. You are shocked. You pull over to the
nearest gas station to do a quick inspection of under the hood and find nothing.
You take off again and the light is off. Whats going on? You go home and check
for codes and what pops up but the notorious code 32. The purpose of this article is
to teach you the theory, operation and diagnostics of EGR in hopes that you will not
be needlessly swapping parts. I will try to not make this a boring science class or a
useless lecture but an informative tool.
EGR Theory. EGR serves one purpose and one purpose only. That purpose is to
reduce Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx). Under normal combustion, Nitrogen(N2)
Oxygen (O2) in the air and Hydrocarbons (HC) in the fuel combind into water
(H2O) Carbon dioxide (CO2) and the Nitrogen remains unchanged. Under very hot
combustion temperatures, the Nitrogen reacts with the other two byproducts and
forms Nitrogen oxide (NO). After being released into the atmosphere, it picks up
another Oxygen and becomes Nitrogen dioxide (NO2). In the presence of sunlight,
http://www.sethirdgen.org/egr.htm (1 of 5) [4/10/2004 11:33:04 PM]

EGR part I
it combines with other compounds like Hydrocarbons and forms Smog. Since
exhaust gas is inert (very stable) it doesn’t burn again. So by being introduced into
the combustion chamber, it will lower combustion chamber temps enough so that
the Nitrogen doesn’t react with the other compounds and is passed unchanged out
the tailpipe thus not contributing to smog. Now, since exhaust gas doesn’t burn, it
doesn’t exactly help with combustion. At higher RPM’s, this really isn’t noticable,
but at idle, the reintroduction of exhaust gas will cause a very rough idle and can
cause stalling if to much is introduced into the combustion chamber.
EGR Operation. Like mentioned before, EGR flow is good at higher RPMs, but not
good at idle, so some sort of control needs to be place on the EGR system. Earlier
systems used ported vacuum straight to the EGR valve. At idle, the throttle blades
are closed, so there isn’t any ported vacuum. When the throttle is opened, ported
vacuum starts to build. The more throttle, the more ported vacuum. This is how
vacuum advance distributers work. As throttle is increased, the EGR valve opened
further. Once the throttle is closed, ported vacuum is lost and the valve closed.
Most Third Gen. F-bodies use the basic diaphram EGR valve, but instead of relying
on ported vacuum, it relies on vacuum that is allowed to pass through a solenoid.
The solenoid is controlled by the ECM. When conditions are right (engine temp,
TPS position, RPM, etc...) the ECM will ground out the solenoid. The solenoid is a
Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) meaning that the amount of vacuum is controled by
the computer rapidly switching on and off to ground. The more vacuum the ECM
wants to go to the EGR valve, the more time it lets the solenoid remains grounded,
measured in Duty Cycle. With a scantool, you can command the EGR solenoid to
say 50% Duty Cycle and actualy feel the pulses if you put your finder over the
vacuum port of the solenoid.

EGR part I
EGR Diagnostics. Now that you understand what EGR does and how it does it, lets
see why sometimes it doesn’t do it. Since exhaust gas if being introduced into the
intake manifold, things like manifold vacuum and airflow reduce slightly. Speed
density computers can recognize EGR flow by looking for a drop in vacuum via the
MAP sensor. MAF systems use either a temperature switch mounted in the base of the valve or a
diagnostic vacuum switch. Since exhaust gas is hotter than fresh air, it can pick up EGR flow by
sudden increases in temp when the valve is open. The vacuum switch monitors vacuum going from
the solenoid to the valve. In theory, if the valve is getting vacuum, then the system "should" be
working. Highway speeds is when the most EGR flow is
commanded. When cruising on the highway, the computer will pulse the EGR solenoid so that
vacuum will pass and go to the EGR valve. After commanding the solenoid on, it will look
for signs that the EGR valve opened by one of the means mentioned above. If the ECM does not
see the change its looking for, his is when the light comes on. What are some possible causes of no
exhaust flow? Well, first, make sure that the solenoid is getting vacuum. A plugged or broken
vacuum line will make everything else inoperative. If vacuum isn’t getting to the solenoid, it surely
will not get to the EGR valve. Once this is established, make sure the ECM has
control over the solenoid. Visually make sure that the connector is firmly seated
into the solenoid and that the terminals inside the connector are not corroded or
damaged. Usually you can rev the engine while it is in closed loop and it will be
enough for the ECM to command EGR so you will be able to feel vacuum at the
solenoid. If you feel vacuum, than the ECM has control over the solenoid and
adequate vacuum is reaching it. If you do not feel vacuum, you may need to drive
the vehicle with a vacuum gauge hooked up to the solenoid. If you are driving in
closed loop, you should see some vacuum. If you don’t the solenoid is probably

EGR part I
bad, or the ECM is not controlling it (bad ECM grounds or ECM) providing you
had vacuum going to the solenoid. If all is OK so far, inspect the vacuum line
going to the EGR valve for plugging or being broken. It is not uncommon for
previous owners to plug these vacuum lines with sticks, BBs, screws, or anything
else to try and cure a “rough idle”. The lines can also become plugged with carbon
deposits over time. If it is clear and free from defects, check out the valve itself.
Make sure it isn’t seized by manually lifting up on the diagphram. If it moves
freely, put a vacuum on it. It should move and stay there (hold a vacuum). If it
doesn’t move, try lifting a little on the diagphram (it may be a positive backpressure
vavle, lifting on it some will act as the backpressure). If it still doesn’t move, or
wont hold vacuum, the valve is bad. If everything still checks out OK, then the only
other thing that will limit exhaust gas flow is plugged up passages in the intake
manifold and cylinder head. This is a common problem with the V6’s and will
leave many technicians scratching their head because the passages can’t be seen. If
all else checks out, get a rifle cleaning brush and a shop vac and start cleaning. You
will be surprised the amount of carbon chunks that will come out of there.
Other notes: Most people like to disable the EGR because they claim that hurts
performance. In actuality, disabling the EGR can hurt performance. Here is why.
As we already know, at certain thorttle postitions and RPMs, the ECM will
command EGR operation. This is to cool combustion chamber temps under load.
Well, with cooler combustion chamber temps, we can further fuel economy by
advancing the timing. We know that to much timing will cause “pinging”. But
when we keep the combustion temps down, the timing can be advanced without the
“pinging” effect. At highway speeds, the ECM commands EGR operation and will
advance timing accordingly. With a blocked of EGR, the computer thinks it is

EGR part I
flowing when it is not and will advance timing. Now that the combustion chamber
temps are much hotter, the advanced timing is no longer a good idea and detonation
occurs. Since detonation can severly damage an engine, knock sensors are used.
When the knock sensor detects detonation, it will retard timing. It takes more to
stop detonation that it does to cause it and this is where it hurts performance. For
example, at highway speeds, your total advance may be, lets say 30* BTDC. If the
computer advances it one more degree to 31* and it detects detonation, it can’t just
go back to 30* to stop it, it must retard timing to like 25* to try and stop it, and if it
still occurs it will further retard timing. If the EGR was working properly, the
temps would have stayed cool enough to operate at 31* with no problems.
EGR PART II
Many items were forgotten about when this article was written.
Part II includes these updates.
[Tech Index] [Home]
All content © 2000, SEThirdgen.org, All rights reserved. No part of this website may be reproduced without the expressed, documented consent of SEThirdgen's Administrators.

EGR part II
EGR Part II
1985-1989 V8:
These systems use a typical EGR valve with one exception. There is a Diagnostic Temperature Sensor threaded into the base of the
EGR Valve. Because these cars are equipped with a MASS Air Flow sensor, it uses this temp sensor to detect changes in
temperature. Primarily, it is looking for a sudden rise in temperature when the EGR valve is opened. Everything is the same as
mentioned in Part I, with the addition of the temp sender. It is wired directly to the ECM, and serves as an EGR self diagnostic
only. Some potential problems that would cause a code on these systems are: Ruptured EGR diaphragm, broken vacuum lines,
defective or plugged EGR Solenoid, poor connections to the solenoid or diagnostic switch, or a failed diagnostic switch.
1990-1992 V8:
These systems use the same EGR valve for the previous V8's, except the deletion of the Diagnostic Temp Sensor. Because these
systems are Speed Density (using a MAP sensor) it can detect EGR operation in another way. Usually the EGR diagnostic is run on
a long decell. When the vehicle is in decell, the EGR valve is closed. The ECM begins to monitor MAP sensor voltage very closely,
and will cycle the EGR Solenoid to open the valve fully and then closed again and watch for the sudden changes in MAP sensor
voltage, due to the introduction of exhaust gasses into the intake. Failures for these cars are similar to those on the previous V8's,
except the temp sensor, since it is deleted.
1985-1989 2.8L V6:

Once again, we are dealing with a Mass Air flow system. Because of this, we once again use a diagnostic switch. This one is not
like the V8 diagnostic switch. This one is based on assumption, and is not as accurate as the temp switch. The V6 uses a vacuum
switch that is basicly "Tee'd" with the EGR valve. When the ECM commands the EGR solenoid to allow vacuum to the valve, it
also goes to the diagnostic switch. The ECM assumes that if the diagnostic switch is getting vacuum, then the EGR valve is too.
This is usually a correct assumption, but it doesn't mean the Valve is working! Because this is also a diaphragm type EGR valve, it
has similar failures encountered as the V8 systems, but with the vacuum switch, you also need to look at it. It is not unusual for the
diagnostic switch to go bad. They usually fail always "open" telling the ECM that the valve is never getting vacuum, or they fail
"closed" telling the ECM that is is always getting vacuum, either way, it will set a code. Another failure is the Vent on the
solenoid/switch assembly. It can get clogged. If it does get clogged, vacuum will be trapped in the switch. This will tell the ECM
that the valve is open, and it will be! This can cause rough idle and tip-in hesitation because the solenoid cannot release the vacuum
built up in the EGR Valve, and it gets held open.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/egrii.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:33:06 PM]

EGR part II
1990-1992 3.1L V6:

This system is totally different. It does not use a diaphragm type EGR Valve as used on previous engines. It uses a Digital EGR
Valve. It has three solenoids, each one mounted above a different size orifice. These solenoids are "on/off" solenoids, so when a
different amount of exhaust gas is required, it closes one solenoid, and opens one with a bigger orifice. These cars are once again
Speed Density, so it relies on the good 'ol MAP sensor for diagnostics. During the diagnostic, the ECM will cycle each solenoid
once, and watched for the MAP sensor voltage to change more and more, since each solenoid lets more exhaust gas to pass through.
There are many failures inherent with this system. For one, these solenoids are exposed to hot exhaust gas, and then cooled back
down when EGR is no longer needed. This causes excessive thermal cycling and weakens the springs over time. Sometimes the
springs can get weak enough to let exhaust backpressure push the solenoids off their seat. Other problems include the solenoid
themselves, they can just quit working and never open, or a chunk of carbon can get in there and hold a solenoid open. Another
problem is carbon buildup in the Intake Manifold. Carbon gets accumulated in the EGR passage (because hot exhaust gas is allowed
to cool in the intake) and restricts it. This restriction will cause only a small drop in MAP sensor voltage, regardless of which
solenoid is opened, and will set a code.
If any inaccuracies are found, or something is unclear, please let me know! Webmaster
[Home]
All content © 2000, 2001 SEThirdgen.org , All rights reserved. No part of this website may be reproduced without the expressed, documented consent of SEThirdgen's Administrators.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/egrii.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:33:06 PM]

TPI Conversion Parts
TPI Swapper's guide: Part I, shopping for TPI parts
Swapping a TPI into a car that didn't come with one, can be overwhelming. It can be even harder, if
you don't shop smart. There are many parts and accessories out there for TPI, and many used setups
for sale. In this installment, I will focus on the used setups, and the parts needed to operate them.
Used TPIs are fairly cheap as many people are converting to carb, or upgrading to other forms of Fuel
Injection. You can often find a good deal on a decent used TPI setup from just the intakes and runners,
to the whole nine yards including the wiring harness, sensors, distributer, ECM, and then some fall in
between. I am writing this to help others avoid some of the pitfalls that exist (mostly ones I have
encountered). The more you plan before you shop, the easier the swap will be.
TPI UNITS
Here is an example of what is for sale on eBay. Here are some highlights:
http://www.sethirdgen.org/tpi1.htm (1 of 8) [4/10/2004 11:33:44 PM]

90° fuel lines off the fuel rail. Notice they point towards the drivers side of the assembly. This
denotes that the setup came off of an F-body. If they were straight out, then it came off of a
Corvette. This is very important if you want to use factory fuel lines.
● The assembly comes with the Throttle cable bracket. Although they are cheap new from the
Dealer, every little bit counts, and thats $10 you can spend on something else.
● This unit was equipped on a car WITHOUT the Cold Start Valve. This is important depending
on what you are installing it on. If you are using an '89 or later PROM or wiring harness, you
won't be using a Cold Start Valve. If you do get one that came with the valve, and don't want to
use it, you can get plugs for the hole in the runner and a cap for the fuel rail.
Here is another auction. This setup has some pitfalls, none to serious.
● Notice this unit was equipped with the cold start valve. No big deal, the plug and cap cost $20.
● There are large dents in the runners. Not only is this unattractive, but can obstruct airflow, and
we all know that costs horsepower.
● Some of the bolts are missing. This is no big deal, but can be a hassle, its another thing you will
have to buy later. The more complete it is, the better.
Here is a checklist of things you will need. The more the "package" includes, the less you have to shop
around:

● TPI lower intake
● TPI Upper intake
● Pair of runners
● Throttle Body
● Fuel rail
● 8 injectors
● TPS sensor
● MAF/MAP sensor
● Distributer
● Wiring harness
● IAC motor
● CTS
● IAT sensor
● Knock sensor
● ECM
● PROM/MEMCAL
● fuel pump and/or sender assembly
● high pressure fuel lines
● fuel pump relay
● other needed relays (i.e. MAF relays if using a MAF system)
● Air intake system w/ filter
● Misc.

Usually, the "package" includes what you see in the pictures above, the upper and lower intakes,
runners, fuel rail w/ injectors and the throttle body. Prices usually start around $300 for just that. The
more thats included, the higher the price. Many people who have totally gutted the car, will sell the
harness, ECM, distributer also, and prices for this are usually $600+
I will try to go into some of the "checklist items" in detail, so you know what you are looking at, and
what to look out for.
TPI Upper intake, lower intake, runners:

● 1985-1988 had provisions for a cold start valve. If you are going to use these, you will either
need to use a chip for '86-'88 systems, or use a newer ECM/chip combo, and block off cold start
system. A fuel rail cap and CS valve plug is available to do so.
● 1989 was delete of the cold start valve, so the upper intake (plenum), runners, and lower intake do
not have provisions for the valve.
● 1990-1992 was also delete the CS valve, but also had provisions on the Plenum for a MAP sensor
bracket above the vacuum nipples on the rear of the Plenum, since '90-'92 was speed density
controlled. If you want to use a TPI off of a Corvette, be carefull, the lower intake was made to
bolt up to cylinder heads that do not have EGR passages, so you won't be able to use a Corvette
intake, unless you want to delete the EGR.
Starting in 1987, the angle of the four center bolts of the intake changed, so if you wan't to use a pre-87
intake on an '87 or later engine (or vice versa) you will have to modify the four center holes to make it
bolt up properly.
Throttle body The throttle linkage supposedly changed in '89 so you will need to order a throttle
cable for whatever year throttle body is on the car.
Fuel Rail The fuel rails are essentially the same between the years, the major difference is the F-
body (camaro, firebird) fuel rails, vs the Y-body (Corvette) fuel rails. They are distinctly different, and
will impact how you run your fuel lines. The Fbody rails have a 90° bend towards the drivers side for
the "intermediate" fuel lines to hook up to, before going into the flex lines. You will need the Fbody
rails if you want to use factory lines. The Ybody fuel rails come straight out, and will need custom fuel
lines made to work.

Here is an example of Custom fuel lines made to

adapt a Corvette style Fuel Rail, to an F-body.
You want to make sure you have clearance
between the alternator and bracket if you are
retaining the V-belts.
Injectors You will need to know what size injectors come w/ the TPI, or at least know the engine
size they were on.
19lb/hr injectors were used on 305s,

22lb/hr injectors were used on 350s.
All the Y-body units should come w/ 22lb/hr injectors, since the Vette didn't come w/ 305s, and all '85
and '86 F-body units should come w/ 19s since the 350 wasn't used on these cars untill '87 unless it was
retrofitted.
MAF/MAP sensor
● 1985-1989 systems used a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
● 1990-1992 used a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Due to the unreliability of the
MAF sensor, speed density systems (MAP sensor) are more desireable, and easier to install.
NOTE: 1985 MAF systems used a MAF Burnoff module in conjuntion w/ the ECM and were very unreliable, and should be
avoided.
Distributer More than likely, you can re-use your stock distributer, providing the one that is
currently installed IS NOT a vacuum advance distributer. You can either use the large "coil-in-cap" or
the small style, you will just have to wire accordingly.
Wiring Harness You WILL need a wiring harness to operate the TPI system. A TBI harness can
be modified to operate a TPI, but if you are converting from carb, or don't want to mess w/ converting
the TBI harness, you will need to get a TPI harness. If you are using a MAF system w/ a cold start
valve, you will need the harness for that. If you are using MAF w/o the cold start, you can use the
same harness, and just leave the CS valve connector unplugged. If you are using speed density, you
will need a speed density harness. NOTE: 1985 used a MAF burnoff module, and these harnesses
should be avoided.

Many after market companies make wiring harnesses for TPI. Painless Wiring has impecable quality,
but ARE NOT MEANT TO BE USED AS A STOCK REPLACEMENT. If you want to use a Painless
Wiring harness, you will need to drill a hole in the firewall to run the wires, or cut the harness in half,
and solder in the needed amount so it will be long enough to be run through the factory pass-thru
behind the passenger side fender. *update: Painless now makes longer harnesses, but they are still not
original replacements.
CTS/IAT sensors Except for V6 Camaro's the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) and Intake Air Temp
(IAT) sensor are the same Part Number. Since they are relativly cheap, and big problems can arise if
bad, I reccomend new ones with the swap.
Knock Sensor The knock sensors are different between 305s and 350s, and also different between
MAF systems, and Speed Density (primarily becuase the MAF has an external ESC module, and the
SD is internal to the ECM.) So purchase accordingly. I reccomend a new one.
ECM This is an important decision. If you want or are using a MAF system, you will need the
16198259 (165) ECM. If you are using Speed Density, you will need the 16198262 (730) ECM. The
Speed Density systems use a MAP sensor, and are very reliable, and cheaper to fix (comparison of
replacing a MAP sensor vs. a MAF sensor.)
PROM/MEMCAL Which PROM you use will depend on alot of things. If you are keeping the
cold start valve or not, if you are using MAF or Speed Density, if you are putting it on a 305, 350, or
other engine, if you have manual or auto trans, etc... If you are keeping the CS valve, you will need a
PROM for '86-'88 vehicles. If you are not using a CS valve but keeping MAF, you wil need one from
an '89. If you are using Speed Density, you will need '90-'92. Also note that if you are using an '89 or
later chip, you will need to address the VATS/PassKey issue. It is very easy to "disable" the VATS
feature w/ a custom chip. Your car WILL NOT START w/ an '89 or later chip and you do not have
VATS. You can either send the chip out and have it "disabled", or you can retrofit PassKey into the
vehicle. Also note that Corvette PROMs and F-body PROMs cannot be interchanged.
Fuel Pump/Fuel Sender The decision to install an in-tank pump vs an inline pump is highly
debated much like the MAF vs Speed Density debate. If you are going to use an inline pump, you will
not need to mess w/ pulling the fuel tank. I have heard several people having much luck w/ their inline
pump sucking enough fuel through the stock sending unit, even if a TBI pump is still hooked up. You
will need high pressure fuel lines from the pump to the fuel rail. If you install an in-tank pump, the
TBI guys have an advantage, the TBI fuel sender has the high pressure fitting on the sender, the Carb
fuel sender does not, and should be replaced w/ a fuel injection sending unit. Many pumps are
available for in-tank use, such as stock pumps and Walboro pumps.
High Pressure Fuel Lines Since TPI fuel pressures can reach up to 45psi, and w/ an Adjustable
Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR), they can reach 50+, you NEED fuel lines that can handle the
pressure. One easy, reliable, and affordable alternative is to buy used fuel lines from a salvage yard.
TBI, TPI, and Fuel injected V6 F-bodies all use the same fuel lines, so lines from any of those cars will
work. You can usually get the entire lenght of line, fuel filter bracket and both rubber flex lines for less
than $30. If you are converting from TBI to TPI, you already have these lines. If you are converting
from Carb, you need these lines. You can also run other forms of High Pressure Fuel line from the
tank(or pump) to the fuel rail, as long as they meet pressure specifications. Many companies like
Summit sell AN-"O-ring flare" adapters, so you can use AN fittings, and screw them into the fuel rail.
Fuel Pump Relay You will definatly need one of these, and how you hook it up depends on what
wiring you will use for the TPI. It is reccomended you use a new one.
Relays(other) If you are using a MAF system, you will also need a MAF Power Relay and the
MAF Burnoff Relay on top of the Fuel Pump Relay. Your wiring harness should have provisions for
this.
Air Intake This is a simple, yet always confusing topic. You will need to plumb clean air into the
throttle body but there are many ways to do it. First off, the Carb guys are cursed w/ a passenger side
mounted battery. Since the battery is on the drivers side for TPI, most of your "Cold Air" kits are
routed to the passenger side of the radiator. You can either look around for a kit that routes to the
drivers side, or you can relocate the battery. You can also make a custom cold air.
Here is a custom cold air setup using 3"

exhaust pipe painted black w/ a 45
degree bend, a 3" cone filter on the end,
black plastic to seal off the filter from
the engine bay, and a snorkel from a
TPI firebird turned up-sidesown (so it
points to the drivers side). This is easy
to do, works great, and cost less than
$50. This is installed on an '87 LG4
converted to TPI.
A throttle body mounted cone filter should be avioded at all costs. They suck hot air directly from the
radiator, wich can reach 200+ degrees. Testing has proven around a two tenths gain w/ a throttle body

mounted filter vs a cold air induction.
Also note that a Camaro's "dual snorkel/filter" air intake WILL NOT fit on a firebird. The front
support is different (excessive cutting required), it will not fit between the turn signal housings, and
will also not clear the hood where it goes over the radiator.
Misc. Other notes: Except for the differences in Intake Manifold center bolt angles (which can
easily be fixed) all other mechanical aspects of the engine can be re-used w/ the TPI setup, such as
Heads, Camshaft, block, etc.... When the intake is off, its the ideal time to replace the camshaft and
such, but it is not required. The stock components will work.
You will also need to purchase the gasket set for the TPI. Lower intake gaskets should be the same for
the Carb/TBI engines, but you can usually get the lower gaskets in a kit w/ the runner gaskets. You
will need Lower, runner, and throttle body gaskets.
***If you find any inaccuracies, or have anything to add, please email ADMIN.***
Special thanks to Jim (aka Jim85IROC) for contributing.
[HOME]

Untitled
Thirdgen F-body Performance Data
1985 Trans Am 1988 Formula 1989 Turbo TA 1991 Formula 1992 Trans Am
Convertible
1987 GTA 1989 Trans Am 1991 GTA 1991 Formula 1LE
1988 Camaro Sport 1989 GTA 1991 GTA 1991 SLP GTA
Coupe Convertible
1985 Pontiac Trans Am (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
Engine: 305ci (5.0L HO "L-69"), 9.5:1 1/4 mile: 15.30 @ 92.41 MPH
Compression Ratio, Rochester 4 BBL, HP:
190, TQ: 240 Skid Pad: .92g
Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission,

3.73:1 Rear Axle.
1987 Pontiac GTA (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
Engine: 350ci (5.7L), 9.3:1 Compression, 0-60 MPH: 6.8 seconds
Tuned Port Injected,
HP: 210@4400 RPM, TQ: 320@3200 1/4 mile: 15.10 @ 92 MPH
Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic Transmission Skid Pad: .85g

(700R4), 3.27 rear axle.
1988 Chevrolet Camaro (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
http://www.sethirdgen.org/performance.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:33:47 PM]

Untitled
Engine: 305ci (5.0L), 9.3:1 Compression 0-60 MPH: 7.6 seconds

Ratio, Throttle Body Injected, HP:
170@4000 RPM, TQ: 255@2400 RPM 1/4 mile: 15.71 @ 89.3 MPH
Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission, Skid Pad: .82g

3.08:1 Rear Axle.
1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
Ratio, Tuned Port Injected, HP: 215@4400
RPM, TQ: 285@3200 RPM 1/4 mile: 15.07 @ 93.4 MPH
Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission, Skid Pad: .86g

3.45:1 Rear Axle.
1989 Pontiac Trans Am (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:

3.08:1 Rear Axle.

Specs: Performance:
HP: 235@4400 RPM, TQ: 340@3200 1/4 mile: 15.13 @ 94.3 MPH
Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic

Transmission (700R4), 3.27 rear axle.
1989 Pontiac Turbo Trans Am (TTA) (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:

Untitled
Engine: 3.8L Turbo, 8.0:1 Compression, 0-60 MPH: 6.0 seconds

HP: 250@4400, TQ: 340 @ 2800
1/4 mile: 14.21 @ 97.8 MPH
Transmission (200R4), 3.23 rear axle. Skid Pad: .87g

Specs: Performance:
HP: 235@4400 RPM, TQ: 340@3200 1/4 mile: 14.92 @ 91.4 MPH
Drivetrain: 4speed Automatic Top Speed (est.): 145MPH

Skid Pad: .86g
1991 Pontiac GTA Convertible (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:

3.42:1 Rear Axle.
1991 Pontiac Firebird Formula (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
HP: 240@4400 RPM, TQ: 340@3200 1/4 mile: 14.45 @ 94.72 MPH

1991 Pontiac Firebird Formula "1LE" (Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
HP: 225@4400 RPM, TQ: 300@3200 1/4 mile: 14.55 @ 92.95 MPH
Drivetrain: Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual

Transmission, 3.42:1 Rear Axle.

Untitled
1991 Pontiac GTA w/ SLP Package(Hot Rod Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
HP: 290@5500 RPM, TQ: 360+@3200 1/4 mile: 14.08 @ 98.18 MPH

1992 Pontiac Trans Am Convertible (Car Craft Magazine)

Specs: Performance:
Drivetrain: 5 Speed Manual Transmission
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]

Thirdgen Rearend Data
Rearend Data
RPO Codes 10-bolt axle codes 9-bolt axle codes
Cover ID 10-bolt assembly specs 9-bolt assembly Specs
RPO Codes:
G80: Limited Slip
G92: Performance Rear Axle Ratio
GU2: 2.73
GU3: 2.93
GU4: 3.08
GU5: 3.23
GU6: 3.42
GT4: 3.73
GM3: 3.45
GW6: 3.27
GS4: 3.70
GH4: 2.92
GH3: 2.77
Cover Identification
7.5"/7.62" 10-bolt Axle Codes

*Note: Do not assume the codes are correct in these charts for 9-bolt/10-bolt identification. The ratios are correct, but use pan gasket ID to determine
whether its a 9-bolt or 10-bolt axle.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/reardata.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:33:52 PM]

1982: 1983: 1984:
2JE 2.73 Std 4JF 2.93 Std 4PW 2.73 Posi

2JG 3.08 Std 4JG 3.08 Std 6JG 3.08 Std
2JH 3.23 Std 4JH 3.23 Std 6JH 3.23 Std
2JJ 3.42 Std 4JJ 3.42 Std 6JJ 3.42 Std
2JR 3.42 Posi 4JK 3.73 Std 6JK 3.73 Std
2JW 2.73 Posi 4JQ 3.73 Posi 6JQ 3.73 Posi
2JX 2.93 Posi 4JR 3.42 Posi 6JR 3.42 Posi
2JY 3.08 Posi 4JX 2.93 Posi 6JY 3.08 Posi
2JZ 3.23 Posi 4JY 3.08 Posi 6JZ 3.23 Posi
2KE 2.73 Std 4JZ 3.23 Posi 6KK 3.73 Std
2KF 2.93 Std 4KJ 3.42 Std 6KY 3.08 Posi
2KG 3.08 Std 4KK 3.73 Posi 6KZ 3.23 Posi
2KH 3.23 Std 4PG 3.08 Std 6PN 3.73 Posi
2PE 2.73 Std 4PQ 3.73 Posi 6PQ 3.73 Posi
2PW 2.73 Posi 4PW 2.73 Posi 6PR 3.42 Posi
2PX 2.93 Posi 4PX 2.93 Posi 6PY 3.08 Posi
2PY 3.08 Posi 4PY 3.08 Posi 6PZ 3.23 Posi
2PZ 3.23 Posi 4PZ 3.23 Posi
1985: 1986: 1987:
4PW 2.73 Posi 2EA 2.77 Std 2HA 3.23 Std

6JG 3.08 Std 2EN 2.77 Posi 2HL 3.42 Std
6JH 3.23 Std 2ET 2.77 Posi 2HP 2.73 Std
6JJ 3.42 Std 8JC 3.42 Std 2HR 3.42 Posi
6JK 3.73 Std 8JD 3.73 Std 2HQ 2.32 Posi
6JQ 3.73 Posi 8KA 3.42 Std 2HT 2.73 Posi
6JR 3.42 Posi 8KB 3.73 Std 4HB 3.08 Posi
6JY 3.08 Posi 8XA 2.92 Std 4HR 3.42 Posi
6JZ 3.23 Posi 8XB 3.08 Std 4HV 2.73 Posi
6KK 3.73 Std 8XC 3.27 Std 4HY 3.23 Posi
6KY 3.08 Posi 8XF 3.70 Posi
6KZ 3.23 Posi 8XN 2.92 Posi
6PN 3.73 Posi 8XO 3.08 Posi
6PQ 3.73 Posi 8XP 3.27 Posi
6PR 3.42 Posi 8XQ 3.45 Posi
6PY 3.08 Posi 8XU 3.08 Posi

6PZ 3.23 Posi 8XV 3.27 Posi

8XW 3.45 Posi
8XX 3.70 Posi
8XY 2.92 Posi
1988: 1989: 1990:
6HT 2.73 Posi 6HT 2.73 Posi 8HP 2.73 Std

6HE 2.73 Posi 6HE 2.73 Posi 8HT 2.73 Posi
6HP 2.73 Std 6HP 2.73 Std 8HE 2.73 Posi
6HB 3.08 Posi 6HB 3.08 Posi 8HK 3.08 Std
6HF 3.08 Posi 6HF 3.08 Posi 8HF 3.08 Posi
6HK 3.08 Std 6HK 3.08 Std 8HB 3.08 Posi
6HL 3.42 Std 6HL 3.42 Std 8HJ 3.23 Std
6HQ 3.23 Posi 6HQ 3.23 Posi 2PM 3.23 Posi
6HJ 3.23 Posi 6HJ 3.23 Posi 2PN 3.23 Posi
8HC 3.42 Std
2PN 3.42 Posi
1991: 1992:
8HP 2.73 Std 8HP 2.73 Std

8HT 2.73 Posi 8HT 2.73 Posi
8HE 2.73 Posi 8HE 2.73 Posi
8HK 3.08 Std 8HK 3.08 Std
8HF 3.08 Posi 8HF 3.08 Posi
8HB 3.08 Posi 8HB 3.08 Posi
8HJ 3.23 Std 8HJ 3.23 Std
2PM 3.23 Posi 2PM 3.23 Posi
2PN 3.23 Posi 2PN 3.23 Posi
8HC 3.42 Std 8HC 3.42 Std
2PN 3.42 Posi 2PN 3.42 Posi
Borg Warner 7.75" 9-Bolt Axle Codes

*Note: Do not assume the codes are correct in these charts for 9-bolt/10-bolt identification. The ratios are correct, but use pan gasket ID to determine
whether its a 9-bolt or 10-bolt axle.

1985: 1986: 1987:
10032243 3.08 Std 10032270 3.27 Posi 4ET 2.77 Posi

10032244 3.08 Posi 10032272 3.45 Posi 4EU 3.27 Posi
10032245 3.27 Std 10032274 3.70 Posi 4EW 3.45 Posi
10032246 3.27 Posi 10040660 2.77 Posi
10032248 3.45 Posi
10032250 3.70 Posi
10032268 3.08 Posi
10032270 3.27 Posi
10032272 3.45 Posi
10032274 3.70 Posi
14085324 3.42 Posi
14085325 3.42 Std
14085326 3.75 Std
14085327 3.73 Std
1988: 1989:
4ET 2.77 Posi 4ET 2.77 Posi

4EU 3.27 Posi 4EU 3.27 Posi
4EW 3.45 Posi 4EW 3.45 Posi
[HOME]

Untitled
Thirdgen production numbers.
Camaro Production Numbers:
1982: Sport Coupe, 4-cylinder 78,761

Berlinetta, Coupe, 6-cylinder 39,744
Z28, Sport Coupe, 8-cylinder 64,882
Z28/Z50 Pace Car Edition 6,360



(of the 68,403 Z28s; 21,177
were IROCs)

(of the 88,132 Z28s; 49,585
were IROCs)

Sport Coupe Conv, 8-cylinder 263
Z28 Sport Coupe Conv, 8-cyl 744
(of the 53,607 Z28s, 38,889
were IROCs)

Sport Coupe Conv, 8-cylinder 1,859
IROC-Z 24,050
IROC-Z Convertible 3,761
1989: RS Coupe, 6-cylinder 83,487
http://www.sethirdgen.org/production.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:33:58 PM]

Untitled
RS Convertible, 8-cylinder 3,245

IROC-Z Coupe 20,067

RS Convertible, 8-cylinder 729
IROC-Z Coupe 4,213

Z28 Coupe 12,452
Z28 Convertible 3,203

Z28 Coupe 5,197
Z28 Convertible 1,254
Camaro production figures adapted from "The Camaro White Book", Micheal Bruce Assoc, inc. 1996
Firebird Production Numbers
1982: Total: 116,362

Firebird 41,683
Formula 21,719
Trans Am 52,960
1983: Total: 74,884

Firebird 32,020
Formula 10,934
Trans Am 31,930
1984: Total: 128,304

Firebird 62,621
Formula 10,309
Trans Am 55,374
1985: Total: 95,880

Firebird 46,644
Formula 5,208
Trans Am 44,028
1986: Total: 110,463

Firebird 59,334
Formula 2,259
Trans Am 48,870

Untitled
1987: Total: 88,612

Firebird 42,558
Formula 13,164
Trans Am 21,788
GTA 11,102
1988: Total: 62,455

Firebird 28,973
Formula 13,475
Trans Am 8,793
GTA 11,214
1989: Total: 64,404

Firebird 32,376
Formula 16,670
Trans Am 4,172
GTA 9,631
Turbo Trans Am Pace Car 1,555
1990: Total: 20,553

Firebird 13,212
Formula 4,834
Trans Am 1,060
GTA 1,447
1991: Total: 51,860

Firebird 37,762
Firebird Convertible 989
Formula 5,544
Trans Am 4,013
Trans Am Convertible 637
GTA 2,915
1992: Total: 29,669

Firebird 24,364
Firebird Convertible 1,325
Formula 1,052
Trans Am 1,643
Trans Am Convertible 777
GTA 508
Adapted from the Pontiac Historical Society production number figures.
Please note, numbers vary from source to source. If you feel that one of the numbers are inaccurate, and you KNOW the correct number, please email the
admin and cite your source. Thanks!
[HOME]

Boxing your Thirdgen Trailing Arms.
Boxing your rear LCA (trailing arms)

This is the stock rear control arm. It is also known as a trailing
arm. Two of these and a torque arm is really all that bolts the
rear end to the body of the car, so you can see the importance of
these peices. From the factory, these are stamped steel, wich are
very weak. Aftermarket ones are available that are much
stronger, but if your on budget, you may choose to do it yourself
(aftermarket ones are much lighter however).
Using flat bar stock that was about the same width as the LCA, I
marked where the contours of the LCA changed, and then
grooved the bar for easier bending. You can use narrower bar to
fit inside the LCA, but I got these for free, so thats what I used.
After undercutting the first two grooves, the first two bends were
made to fit the contours of the LCA. The bends were made in a
vice and test fitted. It was trial and error, but patience paid off.
A total of four undercuts and four bends were needed to match

the contours exactly. Then the bar was cut to lenght.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/lca.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:34:27 PM]

Boxing your Thirdgen Trailing Arms.
Once the bar is bent and cut to length, it

can then be welded to the LCA. After
welding, the welds were ground smooth,
and some of the excess bar was also ground
off. After final assembly, it was then
painted. This is also a prime time to install
the Poly Bushings, but I didn't have them
when I did this.
Here is the final product. This really stiffens up the LCA's. If you can't afford aftermarket ones, and can deal with the little extra
weight, than this is the way to go. Gains were minimal, and I would have benefited more with Poly Bushings, but evey little bit
counts.
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/lca.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:34:27 PM]

Installing a WonderBar on your Thirdgen.
Installing a WonderBar (Steering Brace)
This is what is known as a "Wonder Bar" or also known as a steering brace. It ties both sides of the
engine bay together from underneath, giving extra strength to the steering gearbox mount, since fatigue
and stress cracks are common around the gear box mounting. This will help tighten up the front end
and prevent stress cracks from occuring.
Installation couldn't be any easier. This

really is a no-brainer. You can expect to
spend about 15 min in your driveway with
just a ratchet and 15mm socket. Here is a
view of under the car. The wonderbar
mounts parallel to the sway bar.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/wbar.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:34:39 PM]

Installing a WonderBar on your Thirdgen.
You must lower the sway bar and to do this

remove the three bolts shown on each side
(six total). The sway bar is only held in
place by two bolts on each end, but you will
need to remove the third for the brace. Let
the bar hang down.
The actual "bar" portion goes to the front (its

almost impossible to get it wrong) and then
reinstall the six bolts you removed. Thats it!
Thats all there is to it. Here it is installed. A
new WonderBar won't look likt this, mine
was originally black, and I sanded, primed
and painted red. Enjoy!
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/wbar.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:34:39 PM]

GM 10-bolt build-up, Part I
GM 10-bolt Build-up, Part I
This feature will be done in three parts. Part one will be all the "prep" work done to the axle. Part II
will be the ring&pinion setup, and Part III will be the replacement of the rear axle. All of this was
done to a 2.73:1 ratio, posi, disc brake axle out of an '88 IROC as a disc to drum conversion. To clear
up some confusion I have seen out in the "F-body message boards", all thirdgens were equipped with
two axle options. Either the Saginaw 10-bolt 7.65", or the Borg Warner 9-bolt. No 12-bolts, no 8.5"
ring gears, none of that stock. Since this was a 2.73, I had to order the 3.73 gears that are specially
made for "2 series carriers". If you want a deal, you have to: A) Be very patient, B)be very observant,
and C) be willing to travel.
To pick up the "jewel" that I did for $150, I had to drive over 6 hours roundtrip, and rent a pickup truck
to retrieve it. Well worth it, I felt. I picked up the whole assembly (in pieces) for a great price.
This leads me to another point. Know what you are getting into before buying. Some of the things I
MADE SURE OF before buying was: Were the main caps in the original position (they CANNOT be
mixed side to side), is the pinion shim present (I will talk about this later), did the posi work, what
series carrier is it, etc... Know what you need, and what you are talking about. There are some people
who have junk, who want to pawn it off on some unsuspecting person. Everything needed was present
and accounted for, consider it a deal.
Here a a few things you will need when building it up, and/or doing the drum to disc conversion.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/10bolt1.htm (1 of 5) [4/10/2004 11:35:10 PM]

In the picture, there is Richmond ring & pinion, wheel bearings and seals (x2), side carrier bearings
(x2), front and rear pinion bearings, pinion seal, crush sleeve (spacer), J65 E-brake cables (conversion
only), and of course, posi additive.
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, read the instructions that come with the ring and pinion. The
instructions are written by the people who design the gear, so they know best about what it needs to
function properly. Also good to have a service manual handy. Once you read the instructions fully,
read them again! Trust me, you will be glad you did!
The first step is to totally dissasemble the axle. Keep the main caps on there respective side. Mine
were painted, so it was easy to tell. You will need to have the bearings pressed off the pinion and
carrier, a local shop can do this if you don't have the capability. Make sure you save the old bearings,
they will come in handy. Also knock out the old bearing races, save these also.
One quick pointer, to save from rounding the pinion shaft lockscrew, use a 6 point 5/16 socket to break
it loose.
You will also need the save the pinion shim when you take the bearing off the pinion. Richmond gear
reccomneds that you check pinion depth with the proper tool. Since 95% of the people reading this
will not have access to this tool, I will not bother. Instead, we will use Richmond's approved
"alternative" method. If you have the old shim, re-use it. If you don't have the shim, use a .035" pinion
shim for starters. You will check this later with a "tooth pattern".

This pinion shim goes between the pinion, and the bearing. It will get sandwiched when the bearing
gets pressed on. Both the rear pinion bearing, and side carrier bearings need pressed on. This is where
the old bearings come in handy. You will need to knock the rollers off the inner race, and use the inner
race to press the new bearings on by its inner race.. By no means press the bearings on by the outer
race! They will be damaged. If you take this to a shop, politely remind them of this! The yellow arrow
shows the inner race being used to press on the new bearings inner race.
You will now need to bolt the ring gear on. PLEASE NOTE: ring gear bolts are REVERSE
THREAD!! You need to turn them CCW to tighten, and CW to loosen. Also don't be afraid to use
loctite, it will be your best friend! Once all the ring gear bolts are torqued to spec (consult your
instruction sheet/repair manual) then set it aside, its ready to install.

Nows a good time to go ahead and do the wheel bearings and wheel seals. You should have removed
them during dissasembly, but if not, do it now. I use a seal puller to remove them, but any similar
method will work.
Then you will need to remove the bearings. This isn't as easy as the seal. There is a special tool for it,
but since this article is for the average DIYer, I will explain an alternative. I used all of my 3/8" socket
extensions all put together, and "rodded" all the way through the axle housing, and rested the end
against the inside of the bearing, and hammered the end of the extensions (opposite end of housing).
Granted, not everybody has three and a half feet of socket extensions, but any metal rod or the like will
work. Just beat the both out without damaging the axle tubes. Then use a suitible tool to hammer the
new bearings in. I used a FWD axle nut socket. Tap it in untill fully seated. You will hear a change in
pitch of the hammering when its seated. Tap the seal in after that so its flush with the axle tube.
You will need to tap in the new bearing races. Onc method that works well is to use the old bearing
race, a flat piece of metal a little larger than the race, and a brass drift or something similar. Since the
old race is the same size as the new one, it works great for tapping the new one in without damaging it.
Then you just need the metal and drift to beat on the old race.
Thats about it for the "prep" work. Part II will be the ring and pinion setup.

[Part II] [Home]

GM 10-bolt build-up, Part II
GM 10-bolt Part II
Hopefully if you made it this far, you have completed Part I.
Part II will cover the install and set-up of the ring & pinion, and finishing touches.
Hopefully you had the old pinion shim, here is where it will come into play. You will need to set the
pinion down inside the housing. Then set the carrier down inside with the outer races installed. I used
two "production" shims to give some initial preload so I could check the "tooth pattern" to give me an
idea if the pinion depth is close. A service shim is the thick cast iron shim most axles come from the
factory with. I didn't fully seat it since I was just making some checks.
The pattern looks fairly decent, so I will leave the pinion shim alone. If you don't have any gear
marking compound, you will need some. This will be your final "test" along with backlash
measurements.
Since I determined to use the existing pinion shim, I will go ahead and set the pinion bearing preload.
You will need to oil the front and rear bearings.

Install the front bearing, and tap in the pinion seal. Once this is done, slide the crush sleeve on the
pinion shaft, set the pinion in the housing, put the companion flange (yoke) on and the washer and
start the nut.
I used the special tool to hold the companion flange during tightening. If you don't have access to one
of these, you will have to use your imagination, but whatever you decide to do, just remember it has to
withstand alot of torque. I used a 3/4" pull handle to make turning the nut effortless. The reason it gets
so hard is because you have to press the front bearing on the pinion, and you have to crush the crush
sleeve.
Turn the nut until the pinion won't rock back and forth inside the housing. You want to eliminate all
play. Now, turn the nut some more, but go very slow, and in small increments. Once all the play is
gone, you will start to crush the crush sleeve. Once you crush it, you cannot "uncrush" it, so if you
over tighten, you will have to throw the sleeve out, get a new one, and start over. You want between

15-30"/lbs for new bearings, 9-15"/lbs on used bearings.
I have appoximatly 30 inch pounds of preload on the bearings. Remember, tighten the nut slowly and
in small increments. A very small turning amount yields very large increases in preload!!!
Now that the pinion is in, you need to work on the carrier. Set it in with the outer races installed, and
the bearings oiled.
There is another special tool (of course!) to tap the shims in, but you can make do with about anything
you can find.

This shim is to thick. I will not be able to use the thick "production" shims, so I will need to stack
several thin shims (shim pack) to get what I need.
This is where it gets crazy. First you need to establish "no clearance" while getting no preload. So you
need to start with thin shims, and get thicker, equally on each side, untill there is no clearance (using a
feeler gauge) on either side of the carrier. Once this is achieved, you will need to check backlash.
I have .005" of backlash, wich is to tight. Richmond Gears recomends .008" of backlash (its also
etched on the ring gear). You will need to swap shims around, to move the ring gear further or closer

to the pinion. Since I am to tight, I will have to move it left (away) from the pinion. Whatever you
subtract from one side, you MUST add that shim to the other side to mainain zero clearance.
Once you get the backlash set right, you will now need to pre-load the side carrier bearings. After
verifying that zero clearance is achieved, you will need to add a .004" shim to EACH SIDE. You will
have to pound these in. To keep from bending it up, I remove the carrier, add the .004" to each shim
pack, then install the carrier and one shim pack, then tap the whole other pack in. Remember, if the
original "production" shims fit, you won't need to go through all of this.
With that done, you will need to check side bearing pre-load and total preload.
To determine total pre-load, simply take your beam type torque wrench as used in the pinion bearing
meaurement, and turn the pinion nut. You should have 32-55"/lbs of preload. I had 40 inch/pounds,
but because there is such a varience offered, you will need to check the side bearing pre-load, which is
a simple formula: Total pre-load - Pinion pre-load x gear ratio. Specs for new bearings is: 30-40 inch
pounds. So I had 40 total, 30 at the pinion, and I installed 3.73s. 40-30=10x3.73= 37.3, so I am at the
upper limits, but OK.
So we are doing good, now one final check, the "tooth pattern" check. Torque the main caps in place.
Add more paste to the gear teeth and turn the ring gear foward and backward so you can see both sides
of the pattern. Richmond Gear reccomends for their 49 series gears (like what was installed) that the
pattern be basiclly centered, with a slight bias to the "toe" of the tooth.
We are right on the money! Now doublecheck the backlash just for re-assurance. We are still at .008",
time to move on. You will need to slide the axles into the tube and align the splines so they will fit into
the side gears of the carrier. You will need to do one at a time to get the C-clip in. Once the clip is on
the axle, slide the axle outwards to seat the clip.

Once both axles are in, you will need to install the pinion shaft to keep the clips from unseating.
Remember to tighten the bolt down with the 6 point 5/16" socket. You have come to far to round that
bolt off!
Now that the ring and pinion is set-up, its all down hill from here. My next step was to paint it. After
all, if you did this much work, no sense in it looking like it was stolen from a junkyard. I waited untill
the internals were set-up to paint, since there is alot of positioning of the axle during setup, and it
would have gotten all scratched.
Next step (disc conversion only) was to install the rotors/calipers, etc... The pistons in the caliper
where too far out for the new pads, so I had to push them in. There is a tool that rotates the piston
while pushing it in.

With the pads installed, set the caliper on the mount, and don't forget to lube the slide pins with
Silicone lubricant. These brakes aren't the greatest, so take the extra step to help them work at their
peak.
Tighten all four slide pins down (two on each side)
Of course, since I am going to "walk the walk",

you better believe I will "talk the talk"!! I think
this is one of the most recognized items on an
axle!
After insalling the brake lines, I also installed new E-brake cables. I had to get new cables since my
current set-up is drum. They are very easy to install. The axle is ready to install!

Part III will cover the swap of the rear axles. Part III will be coming soon!
[Part I] [Home]

Swapping 10-bolts on an F-body
This is part three of the "10-bolt build up". Once the axle was built up with a posi and Richmond
3.73s, now all we have to do is install it. I used a lift with a Fuel Tank Jack, but this can be done in a
driveway as long as you have something to help you remove the axle (its very heavy).
This was the set-up the car came with from the
factory. Drum brakes and an open 2.73:1 gear
ratio was very inadequate. I am replacing this axle
with one equipped with rear disc.
You will need to start by removing the sway bar.

There are two endlinks, and two clamps that hold
it to the rearend. They look like muffler clamps.
You will need to remove the

Torque Arm and the driveshaft.
The T/A has two 21mm bolts,
and the driveshaft u-joint straps
have four 11mm bolts.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/10boltinstall.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:36:42 PM]

You will need to loosen the e-

brake cables so that they can be
removed. You will also need to
remove the rear rubber brake
hose. Once you crack the fitting
loose, remove the retaining clip
and seperate the lines.
You will need to support the rear

before removing any thing. Once
supported, remove the LCA bolts and
the shock nuts. Once removed, lower
the rear and remove the spring and
rubber.
Make sure everything is

disconnected, and remove the rear.
Once out, remove the old axle from
the support, and put the new one
on. Now is the time to install new
speedo gears.
Once the rear is up in place on the car, there

are a few attaching points that must be installed
before the support can be removed. They are:
1: Shocks
2: Torque Arm

3: Lower control arms.
You don't want to fully tighten the LCA bolts,

since they must be tightened with the car at
ride height.
You will basicly need to re-install everything that you removed. There is no easier way to put it. Make
sure you get the brake line back together, and get the fitting tight and re-install the clip. You may also
need to loosen the e-brake some more to get the cables in. I had to loosen it alot since I had new cables
for the disc.
Once everything is bolted back up, put the wheels, and Track bar back in. Double check everything.
You don't want something coming apart going down the highway or dragstip. But if you went from
drum to disc like I did, you arn't done yet. Drum brake hydraulics are different than discs, so you need
to replace the proportioning valve.

Once you replace this, then you can bleed the brakes. You will also need to tighten the e-brake cable
since it was loosend.
Now, Richmond also reccomends a "break-in" for threre gears. Make sure you read the instructions
since manufacturers reccomendations may vary. Richmond reccomends for the 49 series gear, for
street applications, that you drive for 10 miles and let them cool for thirty. Repeat this two more
times. Basicly, you want the gears to establish a "wear pattern" without overheating. If you overheat
them, the gears will become "soft", and very vunerable to breakage.
Make sure the pedal feels good before you take the car out on the road. If the pedal does not feel right,
something may be wrong, and you may injure yourself or others. Make sure the brakes are working
properly!
Enjoy!
[HOME]

Installing a T56 transmission.
T-56 CONVERSION FROM AUTOMATIC AND T-5
Special thanks to Craig Skiles for documenting his swap bit by bit as he went along.
THIS IS TO HELP ANYONE WHO IS CONSIDERING OR PLANNING TO DO THE T-56 SWAP INTO ANY 82-92
CAMARO. I AM ASSUMING THAT THE SWAP WILL BE THE SAME FOR THE FIREBIRD, BUT IT HAS BEEN MY
EXPERIENCE IN THE PAST THAT THERE ARE A FEW SUBTLE DIFFERENCES HERE AND THERE. YOU HAVE BEEN
WARNED.
THERE ARE ALREADY A NUMBER OF TECH ARTICLES OUT THERE ABOUT THIS SWAP AND TO BE HONEST ALL
OF THEM HAVE LEFT ME SCRATCHING MY HEAD ASKING QUESTIONS ABOUT ONE THING OR ANOTHER. SO I
AM WRITING THIS IN ORDER TO MAKE IT A LITTLE MORE COMPLETE AND ANSWER A LOT OF QUESTIONS I
KEEP SEEING ON THE MESSAGE BOARDS ABROAD.
THERE IS NO NEED FOR ME TO GO INTO DETAIL ABOUT HOW TO TAKE OUT A TRANSMISSION. IF YOU NEED
HELP WITH THIS, I SUGGEST THAT YOU BUY A HAYNES OR A CHILTONS MANUAL, THE LATER BEING
PREFERABLE. I WILL HOWEVER TALK JUST A LITTLE ABOUT PUTTING THE T56 INTO THE CAR TOWARDS THE
END OF THIS ARTICLE. EVERYTHING FOR THE T-56 DOES NOT HAVE TO COME FROM THE DONOR CAR, TRUST
ME ON THIS ONE.
THINGS YOU WILL NEED FOR THE T-56 SWAP:
● T56 TRANNY W/ FORK AND BELLHOUSING FROM AN LT1($600-1500)
● DO NOT USE A 93 T-56 IF YOU WANT THE 0.5 6TH GEAR RATIO
● T56 FLYWHEEL FROM AN LT1($10-350)
● T56 CLUTCH PACK ($208-985)
● T56 SHIFTER ($40-160 IF IT DID NOT COME WITH TRANNY)
http://www.sethirdgen.org/t56.htm (1 of 8) [4/10/2004 11:36:46 PM]

● T56 HYDRAULIC MASTER/SLAVE CYLINDER KIT ($89-130)
● T56 MOUNTING BRACKET/CROSSMEMBER ($150-400 SPOHN PREFERED)
● T56 FLYWHEEL TO CRANK BOLTS ($.85-1.60 -6 OF THEM)
● T56 PRESSURE PLATE TO FLYWHEEL BOLTS ($.45-1.19 -6 OF THEM)
THINGS YOU CAN REUSE IF SWAPPING FROM THE T-5:
● SHIFTER BOOT THAT COVERS THE HOLE IN THE TRANNY TUNNEL
● SHIFTER BOOT FOR THE CENTER CONSOLE
● PEDAL ASSEMBLY
● STARTER (I WILL TALK ABOUT THIS AT THE END OF THE ARTICLE)
● BELLHOUSING TO ENGINE BOLTS
● DRIVESHAFT
THINGS YOU CAN REUSE IF SWAPPING FROM AN AUTOMATIC:
● BELLHOUSING TO ENGINE BOLTS
● DRIVESHAFT
====================================================================
SO LETS START WITH THE GUYS WHO HAVE REMOVED AN AUTOMATIC, THERE ARE A FEW THINGS THAT YOU
NEED TO DO FIRST IN PREPPING FOR THE INSTALLATION OF THE T-56. THEY ARE:
1. REMOVE CENTER CONSOLE COMPLETELY AND DISCONECT THE TWO CABLES GOING TO THE SHIFTER
BRACKET.

2. REMOVE THE BRACKET THAT IS WELDED TO THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL AND HOLDS THE SHIFTER
ASSEMBLY.
3. ON THE SHIFTER ASSBLY THERE IS A WIRE CONNECTOR WITH 6 WIRE LEADS. YOU WILL BE NEEDING FOUR
OF THESE LATER.
4. REMOVE THE TRANNY COOLER LINES IF WEIGHT IN YOUR VEHICLE IS SUCH A FACTOR, EVERY BIT HELPS.
5. REMOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY SO THAT YOU CAN DRILL 3 NEW HOLES FOR THE BRAKE/CLUTCH
PEDAL ASSEMBLY AND CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER.
6. YOU WILL NEED TO CUT A LARGE CUTOUT IN THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL SO THAT THE T-56 SHIFTER
HOUSING WILL FIT. YOU WILL SEE WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT WHEN YOU INSTALL THE T-56.
7. I KNOW THAT JUST ABOUT EVERY ONE HAS THIER WAY OF DOING THINGS, BUT JUST IN CASE, MAKE SURE
YOU REMOVE THE TV CABLE FORM THE THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY IF YOU DISCONNECTED IT AT THE
TRANNY, YOU WILL OBVIOUSLY NOT BE NEEDING THIS EITHER.
OK, USE WHATEVER YOU CAN (CHISEL & HAMMER, AIR CHISEL) TO REMOVE THE BRACKET THAT HELD THE
SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. THERE ABOUT FOUR OR FIVE TACK WELDS THAT HOLD IT ON, GOODLUCK, IT'S A BITCH.
TO REMOVE THE TRANNY COOLER LINES, I FOUND IT MOST SIMPLE TO USE A GOOD PAIR OF CUTTERS,
BECAUSE ITS GOING TO BE NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO WIGGLE THOSE DAMN LINES OUT.
TO REMOVE THE BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY, YOU WILL NEED TO FIRST REMOVE THE BRAKE MASTER
CYLINDER AND BRAKE LINES, THEN DROP THE HUSH PANEL UNDERNEATH THE DRIVERS SIDE DASH. HERE I
FOUND IT EASIER THE SECOND TIME AROUND TO JUST LET DOWN THE STEERING COLUMN AND USE A 4'
EXTENSION BAR TO SEE AND REMOVE THE 4 NUTS THAT HOLD ON THE BRAKE BOOSTER TO THE FIREWALL. IT
WILL ALSO MAKE IT EASIER TO REMOVE THE IGNITION SWITCH TO REMOVE THE LOCKING MECHANISM
ATTACHED TO THE SWITCH THAT PREVENTED YOU FROM TAKING THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN YOU
WERE IN ANY GEAR OTHER THAN PARK. AFTER REMOVING THE 4 NUTS, I NOTICED THAT THERE WAS
ANOTHER NUT STILL HOLDING THE ASSEMBLY ON. THIS NUT IS IN SORT OF A TOUGH PLACE. IF YOU POKE
YOUR HEAD UP UNDER THE DASH LOOKING UP TOWARDS THE DASH PAD YOU WILL SEE IT. IT'S ABOUT
CENTER OF THE BRAKE PEDAL ITSELF, A 6" EXTENSION WILL DO JUST FINE HERE. AFTER REMOVING ALL 5
NUTS NOW, IT WILL BE EASIER TO REMOVE THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH AND CRUSIE CONTROL INTERRUPT
SWITCH IF EQUIPPED.
AS FOR THE DRILLING OF THE THREE HOLES NEEDED FOR THE NEW BRACKET AND CLUTCH MASTER
CYLINDER, I CAN ONLY SUGGEST WHAT I DID, BECAUSE THE HOLE THAT WAS SPECIFIED IN ANOTHER
ARTICLE FOR THE SHIFTER TO COME THROUGH THE TRANNY TUNNEL WHEN I WAS INSTALLING THE T-5 WAS
WAY TO LARGE. THE BEST WAY I THINK IS TO FIND A REFERENCE POINT ANYWHERE IN THE CAR, LIKE A
POINT ON THE FIREWALL, SOMETHING THAT IS THE SAME IN ALL CAMAROS AND NOT JUST SOME MODELS.
THIS OF COURSE ONLY WORKS IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A CAR THAT HAD A T-5 IN IT. I CAN SEND
MEASUREMENTS UPON REQUEST BUT RATHER NOT. I WILL TELL YOU THAT THAT THERE IS A TECH ARTICLE
OUT THERE ON A POPULAR BOARD ABOUT SWAPPING IN A T-5 FROM AN AUTOMATIC. YOU CAN USE THIS

ARTICLE AS A GUIDE FOR THE T-56 AS LONG AS YOU MOVE THE ENTIRE HOLE BACK ABOUT 2" AND CHANGE
THE WIDTH TO BE 1' NARROWER. DOUBLE CHECK IT FIRST, DON'T TAKE MY WORD ON IT.
FOR THE CLUTCH/BRAKE ASSEMBLY YOU WILL NEED TO DRILL 3 HOLES. ONE ARTICLE MENTIONED ABOUT
THERE BEING A CUTOUT ON THE RUBBER PADDING/ISULATION OF WHERE THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
WOULD GO IF THE CAR WAS SO EQUIPPED. WELL THERE WAS. IF YOUR CAR DOES NOT, I CAN SEND A
MEASUREMENT TO YOU BY TAKING MEASUREMENTS OFF FROM THE BRAKE PEDAL ROD THAT GOES
THROUGH THE FIREWALL. IT WILL BE A BITCH IF YOU DONT HAVE THESE HOLES RIGHT, PROMISE. WHEN I
GOT READY TO DO THIS I HAD THE CUTOUTS THERE AND JUST USED A 1.25" HOLE SAW TO MAKE TWO HOLES.
THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER BOLTS TO THE FIREWALL AT AN ANGLE THEREFORE DRILLING TWO HOLES
SORT OF ELONGATES THE HOLE TO ALLOW THE CYLINDER TO BE AT THE RIGHT ANGLE. AFTER THE HOLE IS
DRILLED I THEN USED A STANDARD DRILL BIT ABOUT TWO SIZES UP FROM THE ACTUAL BOLT SIZE AND
DRILLED TWO HOLES ON EITHER SIDE OF THE ONE I JUST DRILLED. THESE HOLES SERVE TWO PUPOSES. ONE
BEING THAT THE 'U' BOLT USED TO HOLD THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER UP AGAISNT THE FIREWALL WILL
COME THROUGH THESE HOLES FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND (SECOND) THEN GO THROUGH THE
HOLES OF THE BRACES THAT ARE FOUND ON THE CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY WITH TWO NUTS TO SCREW
ONTO THE 'U' BOLT. ITS A PIECE OF CAKE!
SO NOW YOU HAVE ALL YOUR HOLES CUT AND YOUR PEDAL ASSEMBLY IN PLACE, AND YOU HAVE THE
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER IN READY TO GO. HERE'S SOMETHING THAT YOU NEED TO DO AS WELL. YOU
NEED TO TAKE THE TWO LARGEST GAUGE WIRES THAT ARE ON THE 6 WIRE CONNECTER THAT YOU
UNPLUGGED FROM THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY AND CUT THEM. YOU ARE GOING TO RUN THESE WIRES INTO THE
CLUTCH START SWITCH. I WILL EXPLAIN THE DIFFERENCES IN COLOR OF THE WIRES AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS
ARTICLE WITH SOME OTHER DIFFERENCES BETWEEN MODEL YEARS. YOU WILL ALSO NEED TO FIND THE TWO
WIRES THAT CONTROL THE REVERSE LIGHTS (TAN W/ WHITE STRIPE & LIGHT GREEN-CHECK YOUR MANUAL)
AND RUN THESE OUT THE HOLE YOU CUT FOR THE SHIFTER, OR YOU CAN RUN THROUGH THE FIREWALL AND
BACK THROUGH THE TRANNY TUNNEL. THE REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH IS ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE T-56.
====================================================================
FROM HERE YOU SHOULD BE CAUGHT UP TO THE GUYS WHO HAVE REMOVED THE T-5. THEY SHOULD HAVE
BY NOW SWAPPED OUT THE NEW CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER HYDRAULICS AND BE SCRACTHING THEIR HEAD
AS TO WHY THE CLUTCH ROD FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER WILL NOT FIT PROPERLY ON THE PEDAL. I WILL
EXPLAIN THIS AT THE BOTTOM.
NOW YOU NEED TO NOW PUT ON THE T-56 FLYWHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE. ONCE YOU HAVE THE FLYWHEEL
AND PRESSURE PLATE BOLTED UP USING THE NEW BOLTS YOU HAVE GOTTEN FROM THE DEALER YOU ARE
NOW READY TO LIFT UP THE TRANNY.

YOU MUST LIFT THE TRANNY UP AS STRAIGHT AS POSSIBLE AND AS CLOSE AS YOU CAN GET THE TRANNY TO
THE ENGINE BLOCK WITHOUT SCRAPPING THE INPUT SHAFT ON THE PRESSURE PLATE, OTHERWISE YOU WILL
BE THERE ALL DAY AND NIGHT TRYING TO GET IT IN AND MESSING UP THE INPUT SHAFT AND PUTTING
UNNECESSARY STRESS ON IT. ONE WAY TO GET THE TRANNY UP THERE IS TO START BACK IN THE TRANNY
TUNNEL A BIT FURTHER AND LIFT AND PUSH AT THE SAME TIME. YOU WILL SEE THAT IT IS BETTER TO JUST
LIFT THE TRANNY STRAIGHT UP BECAUSE AS YOU GET TO THE TOP OF THE TUNNEL THINGS START TO GET
KIND OF TIGHT.
OBVIOUSLY DO NOT TRY TO SHOVE THE TRANNY AS HARD AS YOU CAN TOWARDS THE BLOCK TO MAKE
THAT .25" OR .125" GAP GO AWAY, OR PUT BOLTS IN TO DRAW THE TRANNY TO THE BLOCK. YOU WILL SCREW
UP THE PILOT BEARING DOING THIS!! YOU WILL FIND YOURSELF TAKING THE TRANNY OUT AGAIN AND
REPLACING THE BEARING ALONG WITH THE INPUT SHAFT BECAUSE IT DID NOT HAVE THE SUPPORT IT
NEEDED.
ONCE YOU HAVE THE TRANNY UP AGAISNT THE BLOCK, IT WOULD BE WISE TO PUT IN A FEW OF THE TRANNY
TO ENGINE BLOCK BOLTS. FROM THERE, I WOULD THEN GO AHEAD AND PUT ON THE X-MEMBER AND MOUNT
OF YOUR CHOICE. I WILL DESCRIBE A FEW DIFFERENCES OF THESE AT THE BOTTOM.
SO THERE YOU ARE, THE TRANNY IS BOLTED UP TO THE BLOCK AND YOU HAVE THE X-MEMBER BOLTED IN
AND READY TO MOVE ON. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS JUST SLIDE THE CLUTCH FORK ON THE BEARING,
YES YOU CAN DO THIS WHILE THE TRANNY IS BOLTED ONTO THE BLOCK WHILE THE SLAVE CYLINDER COVER
IS OFF, JUST USE A FLASHLIGHT AND LOOK UP IN THE OPENING AND YOU CAN SEE THE BEARING. AFTER
SLIPPING THE FORK ON TO THE BEARING PUT THE COVER ON AND THEN BOLT THE SLAVE CYLINDER COVER
ONTO THE TWO STUDS.
ONE THING I CAN NOT EXPLAIN IS HOW YOU WOULD BOLT UP THE EXHAUST BRACKET TO THE TRANNY. MY
EXHAUST IS STILL STOCK AND I USED SPOHN T-56 RETROFIT TORQUE ARM . SO I JUST TIED IT UP FOR THE TIME
BEING UNTIL I FIGURE OUT WHAT I AM GOING TO DO. STILL HAVE THE EXHAUST ITSELF TO REPLACE AND
WHAT OTHERS DID WITH THE BRACKET, I HAVE YET TO ASK. SORRY.
FINALLY, BOLT UP THE DRIVE SHAFT AND TORQUE ARM IF EQUIPPED (SEE BELOW). NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO
DO US MAKE ALL YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS. THERE ARE 4 YOU NEED TO MAKE.
1. REVERSE LOCKOUT - WIRE TO THE BRAKE SWITCH, IT WILL MAKE LIFE EASIER
2. VSS SIGNAL TO ECM AND SPEEDOMETER - I SUGGEST WWW.JAGSTHATRUN.COM FOR A SOURCE ON THIS
INFO IF YOU HAVE A MECHANICAL SPEEDO
3. REVERSE LIGHTS
4. CLUTCH STARTER SWITCH
AND OF COURSE THE 'CAGS' CONNCECTION IS FOR THOSE GUYS THAT DON'T KNOW HOW TO DRIVE A REAL
CAR, YOU WILL NOT BE NEEDING THIS FEATURE BECAUSE YOU DRIVE A THIRDGEN. ANYWAY, I WOULD
SUGGEST USING A PLUG TO COVER THE CONNECTORS THAT ARE EXPOSED. THAT'S JUST ME.

SOME THINGS OF INTEREST:
THE T-56 FLYWEEL IS DIFFERENT FROM THE T-5 FLYWHEEL. THE T-56 IS MUCH THICKER THAN THE T-5 OFF A
BLOCK THAT'S 1988 AND NEWER. AS FOR THE PRESSURE PLATE IT IS THE OPPOSITE. THE PRESSURE PLATE FOR
THE T-56 IS A BIT THINNER THAN THE ONE USED FOR THE T-5 AND AS YOU ALREADY KNOW FROM READING
ALL OVER THE BOARDS, THE CLUTCH SETUP IS ASS BACKWARDS!! (THANK YOU GM ENGINEERING!) THE
CLUTCH ON THE T-56 WORKS LIKE THIS (in simple terms):
THE THROWOUT BEARING IS INSTALLED INTO THE PRESSURE PLATE FROM THE FRONT SIDE OF THE PLATE
AND OBVIOUSLY BEFORE YOU BOLT THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLYWHEEL. THE BEARING STICKS OUT
OF THE PRESSURE PLATE ENOUGH SO THAT THE CLUTCH FORK WILL ATTACH TO THE BEAING AND PULL THE
FINGERS (TOWARDS THE TRANNY) AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL AND PULL THE SURFACE OF THE PRESSURE
PLATE AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL. WHEREAS THE T-5 BEARING SITS COMPLETELY BEHIND THE PRESSURE
PLATE AND AROUND THE INPUT SHAFT OF THE TRANNY, THE BEARING PUSHES ON THE FINGERS (TOWARDS
TO THE ENGINE) PUSHING THE SURFACE OF THE PRESSURE PLATE AWAY FROM THE FLYWHEEL ALLOWING
THE CLUTCH DISK TO SPIN FREELY.
ALSO THE FLYWHEELS WILL DIFFER DEPENDING ON WHAT TYPE OF REAR SEAL YOU HAVE IN YOUR ENGINE
BLOCK. I BELIEVE YOU WILL FIND THE ONE PIECE REAR SEALS STARTED IN 1987 OR MIGHT HAVE BEEN 86
(CAN'T REMEMBER AT THIS TIME) AND WILL WORK FINE WITH THE T-56 FLYWHEEL. IF YOU HAVE AN EARLIER
BLOCK, LIKE I DO, THEN YOU NEED TO GO OUT AND FIND ANOTHER FLYWHEEL THAT HAS THE BOLT TO
CRANK PATTERN AS THE 1986 AND OLDER FLYWHEELS HAVE. CENTERFORCE MAKES A FLYWHEEL FOR THIS
APPLICATION AND DEPENDING ON WHICH DEALER YOU USE, IT CAN COST ANYWHERE FROM $240 TO $360 AS
WHAT NOPI QUOTED ME.
ONE MORE THING ABOUT THE FLYWHEEL FOR THE T-56, DON'T HOLD ME TO THIS, BUT I THINK THERE IS A
DIFFERENCE IN THE BOLT PATTERN FOR THE PRESSURE PLATE TO BOLT ON TO THE FLYWHEEL THEN FROM A
T-5.
BOTTOM OF ARTICLE:
LS1 T-56, DON'T BOTHER, THIS TRANNY IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. THE BELLHOUSING BOLT PATTERN IS
DIFFERENT FROM THE REST.
THE TWO LARGE GAUGE WIRES YOU CUT OFF FROM THE 6 PLUG WIRE CONNECTOR ON THE AUTOMATIC
SHIFTER ARE YELLOW AND PURPLE FOR EITHER 1988 OR 1987 AND OLDER, AFTER 1988 TO 1992 THE WIRES ARE
I BELIEVE YELLOW AND GREEN, EITHER WAY, THEY WILL BE THE TWO LARGEST GAUGE WIRES ON THAT
CONNECTOR. DO YOUR SELF A FAVOR AND LOOK IN THE MANUAL AND DO THE RESEARCH YOURSELF. SAME
GOES FOR THE REVERSE LIGHT WIRES ON THAT SAME CONNECTOR. THE LAST TWO WIRES THAT ARE LEFT, I
WOULD JUST LEAVE, CUT AND TAPE THEM UP SO THAT THERE IS NO CHANCE FOR BARE WIRE TO MAKE
CONTACT WITH ANYTHING IN THE CAR.

STARTERS --- ONE OF MY FAVORITE SUBJECTS IN THE PAST. I WILL TRY TO BE NICE AND JUST SAY THAT
THERE ARE SOME IDIOTS OUT THERE THAT BELIEVE THAT A STARTER FOR AN AUTOMATIC IS THE SAME FOR
A MANUAL TRANNSMISSION, NO IFS ANDS OR BUTTS. WELL ALL I KNOW IS THAT WHEN I SWAPPED OUT THE
AUTOMATIC FOR THE T-5, THE STARTER WOULD NOT FIT BECAUSE THE GEAR HOUSING WAS DIFFERENT IN
SHAPE, DIDN'T HAVE TO DO IT FOR THE T-5 TO T-56 SWAP, BUT ACCORDING TO SOME PEOPLE, ON THAT AGAIN
NOTORIOUS NAMELESS BOARD, WOULD SAY I DON'T KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT. TELL YOU WHAT,
SAVE YOURSELF SOME GRIEF AND GO AND TAKE YOUR STARTER TO THE AUTOMOTIVE PARTS STORE (I
WOULD NOT RECOMMEND NAPA, JUST FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE) ASK THEM TO PULL ONE OF EACH OUT
AND COMPARE THE TWO FOR YOUR YEAR AND MODEL. IT WILL SAVE YOU SOME TIME.
THE EYE-ROD ON THE NEW GM HYDRAULIC MASTER CYLINDER KIT FOR THE T-56 WILL NOT FIT ONTO THE
POST OF THE STOCK CLUTCH PEDAL OUT OF A 1982-1992 CAMARO. YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE PLASTIC
INSERT IN THAT EYE-ROD AND FIND A WAY TO KEEP THE ROD FROM SLIPPING OFF THE POST. I WILL NOT
TELL YOU WHAT I DID SO THAT YOU DON'T COME RUNNING BACK TO ME IF YOU HAVE AN ACCIDENT. AS
ALWAYS, I COULD BE WRONG AND JUST HAD A SPECIAL SITUATION IN MY CASE.
X-MEMBER (TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER) - HERE, I WOULD JUST SAY GO WITH THE SPOHN T-56 RETROFIT
TORQUE ARM FOR THE 1982 - 1992 CAMARO/FIREBIRD. REASON BEING IS THAT FOR ONE THE BRACKET FOR
THE EXHAUST IS A BITCH TO DEAL WITH WHEN TRYING TO GET THE TORQUE ARM BACK UP AFTER CUTTING
IT DOWN TO THE CORRECT SIZE (REMEMBER THAT THE T-56 SITS BACK A COUPLE OF INCHES MORE THAN THE
AUTOMATIC AND T-5 AND YOU NEED TO TAKE OFF I THINK AS ONE ARTICLE SAID, 1.9".....OOOK) ANOTHER
REASON IS, HOW MANY TIMES HAVE YOU GONE THROUGH THOSE TRANSMISSION RUBBER MOUNTS?.....YOU
WILL NEVER BREAK ONE AGAIN WITH THE SPOHN TORQUE ARM, BECAUSE IT RELOCATES THE TORQUE ARM
TO THE X-MEMBER - MAKING IT VERY SOLID!! THAT AND YOU GET AN ADJUSTABLE TORQUE ARM AND A
DRIVESHAFT SAFETY LOOP ALL COMBINED INTO THE TRANNY X-MEMBER. WHAT A DEAL!!
ONE MORE THING FOR YOU GUYS WHO HAVE THE 90-92 CAMARO ELECTRIC SPEEDOMETER (EVERYONE ELSE
GO TO JAGS THAT RUN'S WEBSITE). DEPENDING ON WHAT YEAR MODEL AND ENGINE YOU HAVE DETERMINES
THE TYPE OF SIGNAL YOUR VSS PUTS OUT. IT WILL BE EITHER A 2,000 PULSE PER MILE OR A 4,000 PULSE PER
MILE SIGNAL, CHECK YOUR MANUAL. THE VSS ON 93 AND NEWER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS PUTS OUT A
40,000 PULSE PER DRIVESHAFT REVOLUTION! BIG DIFFERENCE. I AM ASSUMING THAT THE T-56 VSS IS
SIMILAR TO THE AUTOMATIC VSS IN 93 AND NEWER CAMAROS, BUT ITS DANGEROUS TO ASSUME SUCH A
THING. ONE OPTION IS TO GO THE WEBSITE MENTIONED ABOVE (WWW.JAGSTHATRUN.COM) AND SPEND
WELL OVER $300 DOLLARS FOR THE TAILSHAFT CONVERSION, OUCH!! OR THERE IS ANOTHER OPTION.
CYBERDYNE APPARENTLY MAKES A CALIBRATION BOX THAT WILL TAKE CARE OF THIS PROBLEM. WELL I
CALLED JEGS TO SEE IF THEY HAD ANY TECHNICAL INFO ABOUT THIS BOX AND AS USUAL IT'S ALWAYS BEST
TO CALL THE MANUFACTURERS THEMSELVES. HERE'S WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD: CYBERDYNE DOES NOT
RECOMMEND THEIR CALIBRATION BOX FOR ANY GM VEHICLE. APPARENTLY THEY HAVE HAD PROBLEMS
WITH THE BOX CASUING PROBLEMS WITH THE ECM AND THE TCC. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, DON'T JUST
GO OUT AND PURCHASE IT BECAUSE SOMEONE SAID THAT IT WORKS. DO YOUR HOMEWORK. SOME SAY THAT
IT DOES WORK BUT CAN NOT GET AN EXACT READING ON THE SPEEDOMETER, OTHERS I HAVE NOT HEARD
FROM, MAYBE THEY ARE HAVING PROBLEMS?...WHO KNOWS..... A THIRD OPTION IS TO MAKE A
DIVIDER/MULTIPLIER CIRCUIT, SORRY I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT ELECTRONICS SO YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN
WITH THIS ONE. A FOURTH OPTION IS TO GO TO DAKOTA DIGITAL'S WEBSITE AND ORDER THE 'SGI-5'
SPEEDOMETER INTERFACE. THIS BOX COSTS THE SAME AS CYBERDYNE'S CALIBRATION BOX OFFERED BY
JEGS. THEY HAVE A GREAT TECHNICAL SUPPORT AND ARE VERY FRIENDLY COMPARED TO CYBERDYNE AND

JEGS TECH PEOPLE.
LAST OPTION IS FOR YOU TO FIGURE OUT SOMETHING YOURSELF. JUST DON'T LET THE VSS GO
UNCONNECTED FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME, IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN YOUR GAS MILAGE AND
COULD BE THE REASON WHY MY ECM FRIED A 1,000 MILES AWAY FROM HOME, WHO KNOWS, ELECTRONICS IS
SORT OF FUNNY IN MY OPINION, BUT THEN AGAIN WHAT DO I KNOW!
GOOD LUCK ON YOUR SWAP.
This article was written by Craig Skiles.
[HOME]

Replacing a heater core in a thirdgen F-body
Replacing a Heater Core.
If you are like anybody else, your heater core will probably start leaking at the worst possible time. If
your windows keep fogging up, or you smell coolant, or if your carpet is wet with antifreeze, then your
heater core is probably leaking.
When my heater core went out, it gave little warning.

I could smell a very faint antifreeze smell, but though
it was coming from under the hood, then one day it
totally blew leaving this large puddle on the passanger
side floor.
If you are serious about working on your own car, then I highly reccomend
getting one of these. This is a "Helms" manual, wich is what is used at the
GM Dealerships. This is far superior to any other manual that is produced,
and is worth its weight in gold. This is the personal one for my car.
You will need to remove the radio and console around

the radio. The Instrument panel trim will also need to
be removed. I left the A/C controls hooked up, and
just pulled it through the console.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/heater.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:37:11 PM]

You will also need to remove the ducts that sit inside the console. The
yellow circles mark the two bolt locations. The arrows are to let you know
that although they can't be seen in the picture, this is the general area. You
will need to remove this to better access more bolts behind them.
This is the case that covers the heater core. I have

pictured it out of the car so that you can see the hidden
bolt (circled in red). This is at the very top of the case
and is hard to access. I used about 18" of 1/4" drive
extensions right below the Map Pocket to access this
bolt.
Once you remove the case, this is what you will see. The heater core is
attached to a bracket. The Core and Bracket will need to be removed as an
assembly. If you haven't done so already, you will need to remove the two
heater hoses at the firewall from under the hood. Once again, the circles
show where the four screws are located and the three with arrows are
apoximate since they can't be seen in the picture.
The reason I had you remove the ducts in the radio

console was so that you could access this screw
(circled in red) and bend back that piece of plastic as
the core/bracket is removed and installed. Be very
careful. Years of thermal cycling (heating up and
cooling down) makes these pieces very brittle.

All that is left of removing the core is to actually remove the heater core.
Once removed, there are two retainers wich utilize a total of three screws
(circled in red) remove these screws and seperate the two. Now you just
have to re-attach the new core to the bracket and re-install.
While everything was apart, I found it a good time to fix some other items
that needed fixing. Here, I have Hot-Glued the vinyl/foam covering of the
radio console back to the console. Once the glue dried, it looked almost
good as new. Fixing items like this made installation much easier and the
end result was a better looking interior.
[HOME] [TECH INDEX]

Replacing a dashpad in a 3rdgen.
Replacing your Dash Pad
Much to my unfortunate surprise, one morning I

went out to my car to go to work, and there were
two huge cracks right down the center of my dash
pad.
Many places sell them new for between $400-500.

I picked up a used one from the boneyard from a
wrecked '86 Firebird for $15.
This is about the

approximate location of
the lower screws that hold
the dash pad in place.
There are a total of seven,
and they require a 7mm
(9/32) socket.
This is where you will find the top five screws. Once
again, they are 7mm and very long. Careful not to
drop one down the defroster ducts!
http://www.sethirdgen.org/dash.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:37:34 PM]

Once all the screws are

removed, lift up the front
corner, and pull out. Remove
completely from the car.
Now is the perfect oppurtunity to clean up a little,

or replace any blown speakers, etc.. My speakers
were blown, so I put these in (shown in picture).
Before you can put the new one in, you must
transfer any parts needed over. I opted to throw
away the "plastic grill" speaker covers, and re-use
my cloth covered ones. I also had to re-install the
side defoggers, since they were missing from the
boneyard.
Then simply re-install like it was taken out, then

put all 12 screws back in place. The 5 long ones
go up top, and the 7 short on the bottom.
All done!

[HOME]

Here is your chance to go from

This: To this:
First step is getting at the gauges. you will

need to remove all the trim around the gauges,
including some items you wouldn't think, like
the fog light switch housing (Pontiac), to gain
access to some of the trim bolts.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/whiteface.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:38:01 PM]

With the trim gone, you can now start to remove the
lens and gauge bezel (black plastic around the gauges)
You don't need to remove the cluster, just the lens and
bezel. So leave all the cluster bolts in place.
Here is what it looks like when you take the

bezel off. (These are taken out of the car,
which you will not have to do). You need to
start by removing the Trip Odometer Reset
button. Some screw out, others just pull out.
Then remove the black little screws. It is
reccomended that you do one gauge at a time,
since the screws of some gauges are longer
than others.
The trick to getting these on without removing the needles, is to feed the needle through the center
hole, then fit the hole over the base of the needle. The hole is the same size as the base, so it just fits
over it, but you won't notice once its all the way down. Just push the overlay down over the base of
the needle, but be carefull not to scratch or crease the overlay! Then insert the black srews, but don't
tighten them fully.
The great thing about buying quality gauges, is that

they are EXACT replicas (although white) to the
originals, including the notches on the sides, which
conveniently, can be used as alignment marks when
tightening down the screws. Before snugging the
screws down, make sure that all of your
letters/numbers can be seen through the insert,
otherwise, your cluster lights won't shine through. DO
NOT overtighten the black screws, and make sure the
cluster lights will shine through the numbers.

The TACH and SPEEDO are the easy ones,

since they have one needle and two black
screws. The other two pairs of gauges get
tricky, w/ two needles each. Just take your
time and don't crease the overlay!
This is also a great chance to make gauges that were

not quite right, register properly. The TACH and OIL
PRESSURE should both be at ZERO with the key on,
engine off.
[HOME] [TECH INDEX]

The "Ultimate" TB Coolant Bypass
Many people have bypassed the coolant passage in the Throttle body to help
keep the air charge cooler, thus helping in performance. The normal way to
do this is to unhook both hoses from the Throttle Body and connect them
together with a piece of pipe. While this is effective, it looks, well, rather
hokey. Here is a way to bypass it and make it look good. This does require a
little more work, but is well worth it.
The first step is to remove
the Throttle Body from the
Plenum. This will require
disconnectiong the TP
sensor, IAC motor, any
vacuum lines, throttle
cable, TV cable and Cruise
if equipped, and then the
four mounting bolts. Once
off, unscrew the IAC
motor and remove all of
the IAC/coolant housing
bolts and remove the
housing. You will need a
new gasket, wich can be
purchesed from GM in a
kit. Once removed, you Once the nipples are cut off, some final fileing may be needed to ensure
will need to grind off the totall flushness. Then fill the voids with JB Weld or equivilant. I used
two nipples flush with the cardboard behind the holes do give the JB Weld support so it wouldn't just
housing. In the picture run through the holes. After the first application was allowed to dry, a
you can see after grinding. second application was applied so that there was excess.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/bypass.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:38:15 PM]

The blue is where the

nipples used to be.
After the second application was allowed to cure overnight, the excess was filed down so that it was
completely smooth across the surface. Then it was final sanded, cleaned w/ paint prep (don't use
anything real strong) and apply some coats of paint. I used Black engine enamal to help with the high
temps. Once the paint is dry, it can be reinstalled. Bolt the housing back up to the Throttle Body using
the new gasket. Screw the IAC motor back into the housing using the new gasket included in the kit.
Then reinstall the Throttle Body to the Plenum and reattach all the vacuum lines, electrical connectors
and throttle cables. I ran a new heater hose from the intake to the heater shutoff valve. If you go to the
parts stores, you can usually find a pre-bent hose that will work.
Here are some pics of the final product:
Top left: Front veiw showing the shaved nipple. From above, this
can't even be seen.
Top right: Here is a side veiw if the other shaved nipple. Doesn't even
look like anything was ever there.
Left: Here is another shot, no nipples in sight, heater hose goes off,
completly away from the TB, you'd never know it was supposed to be
there if I didn't tell you.
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]

http://www.sethirdgen.org/bypass.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:38:15 PM]
Setting Minimum Air
Setting Minimum Air
Take a paper clip and insert the ends into the "A" and "B" pins of the ALDL. Turn on ignition but don't
start car. Wait about 30 seconds, then disconnect the lead running to the IAC. Remove the paper clip.
You will need a #T-20 torx bit (tiny little momma) for this part. Start the engine. Set the idle speed to
450rpm if it isn't already. You will find the adjustment behind the throttle stop on the driver's side of
the TB. From the factory, there is a tamper proof plug in place. It will need to be removed. It may not
be there, or already be removed. If you can't find where to turn the screw, the plug is probably in
place. If you can turn the screw, than the plug has been removed. Once it is adjusted turn off the
engine.
Reconnect the lead to the IAC and start the engine. The computer (ECM) will control the idle rpm once
again.
You probably set a code for having the IAC disconnected. Just disconnect the negative lead on the
battery for 30 seconds (book always says 5 min, but who has got that kind of time?)...to clear the error
codes.
Written by: Mike Meyer aka "Lounge Lizard" for SETHIRDGEN.
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/minair.htm [4/10/2004 11:38:17 PM]

Untitled
Udjusting your TPS (Tuned Port Injection)
This is a very simple procedure, and there are really three methods of determining actual voltage. You
will need a very small Torx bit if you still use the factory bolts to retain the TPS to the Throttle Body. I
cheated and used bolts from a hardware store so that I could make quick adjustments using a standard
screwdriver.
First, you need to locate the TPS if you don't already know where it is. It is located on the right side
(from sitting behind the steering wheel) of the Throttle Body. See picture below.
Now that we have found it, lets determine what method is right for you. My personal preference is to
use a Scantool. I feel this is the BEST way, since it is reading what the computer sees. Just plug the
Scantool into the ALDL connector and pull up the DATA list and look for TPS voltage.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/tps.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:38:38 PM]

Untitled
Unfortunatly, not everybody has a Scantool. There are two other methods, but both require a DMM
(Digital Multi-Meter).
The second way, is to use a thin paperclip, or similar type of thin, conductive apparatus. I use a
paperclip in a bind, it seems to work well. You will need to carfully insert the unfolded paperclip into
the connector. You will need to "tap" into the CENTER wire. Its the BLUE wire. Just slide it into the
connector where the wire goes in at. Push it in untill it bottoms out. You may have to wiggle it some
and see if it goes in further for a good contact. Then simply hook the "positive" lead of the DMM to
the paper clip and the "negative" lead to a good ground. Turn the key "ON" and note the reading.

Untitled
The last method still uses a DMM, but seems to be the most common among the "tech" articles that are
out there. You will need three jumper wires, with both ends stripped off. Unplug the TPS sensor, and
install a jumper wire from cavity "A" (the top one) of the TPS, to cavity "A" of the connector. Do the
same for cavity "C" (the bottom one). Now, install a jumper wire from cavity "B" (the center) of the
TPS, but do not put it in the connector, instead, hood the positive lead of the DMM to it, and hook the
negative lead to a good ground and note the reading.

Untitled
Hopefully, by now, you have figured out which one will work best for you. Once you decide, you will
need to round up the appropriate materials. Once the initial reading is obtained, if it is incorrect, loosen
the two mounting screws on the TPS and rotate it until the desired reading is obtained. Once it is
obtained, tighten the screws down, and re-check. Do a few turns Wide Open Throttle and re-check.
Factory specs are: .54 Volts, +/- .075. However, the best part of having an adjustable TPS is you don't
have to stick with factory settings. You can play around with it to get the best throttle response or track
times.
[HOME] [TECH INDEX]

Installing a Serpentine belt setup.
Replacing V-belts with Serpentine belt setup.
First you will need to acquire all of your parts. You will need the left and right
brackets, A/C compressor, alternator, power steering pump, crank pulley,
water pump (serpentine pumps spin backwards), pump pulley,
suction/discharge A/C hose, belt, and the studs and bolts for everything. Most
of this, if not all of it can be picked up at the boneyard, or other sources of
used parts. If you are going to remove the smog pump, you will need to re-
route the belt differently, causing you to need a different size belt. I used a
Dayco 968K6. You can get this about anywhere that sells belts. I will talk
about belt routing later. If you have '85-'87 TPI, you will also need to replace
the metal fuel pipes that run in front of the engine. They are P/Ns: 10055875
& 10055874. They run from the fuel rail to the flex hoses (not shown)
This is a glimpse of what the stock V-belt setup looks like. It looks cluttered, is
difficult to work on (too many akward brackets), the belts tend to squeal, and
so on.
Anytime you look up a procedure in a repair manual, they tell you to

disconnect the negative battery cable, well, for this one, you definatly want to
do that, since you will be altering the alternator wires.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/serpentine.htm (1 of 9) [4/10/2004 11:40:14 PM]

Once you disconnect the battery cable, you can commence work. you will need
to have the A/C system sucked down by an A/C recovery machine, which
means for most of you, taking it to a shop. You will also need to drain your
coolant. Then remove the Air ducting going to the throttle body.

Since the A/C sytem is sucked down, we can go ahead and remove the A/C
compressor. You will need to remove all the brackets and bolts that hold it in
place. Don't just loosen them, take them all the way off and set them aside.
Also remove the A/C lines from the back of the compressor.
You need to finish removing the A/C lines. You will need to undo the fitting at the condensor and the accumulator. ALWAYS use two wrenches to avoid
twisting the line. The V-belt suction/discharge line is bulky and rather akward, and will help "clean up" the engine bay once gone.

Now we can remove the Alternator. Make sure you get the brackets off too,
especially for the smog pump. Now is also an ideal time to remove the lower
radiator hose.
One thing to mention is the fuel lines. What you see in the picture is not what
you will have, these are custom lines to adapt a Y-body fuel rail to an F-body
car. If you have the '85-'87 TPI, you will need to replace the metal fuel lines.
Next step is to remove the water pump. Don't even bother removing the pully,
just remove the four bolts that hold it on. Set these four bolts aside from the
heap of V-belt crap, since you will need to reuse these on the new water pump.
Once the pump is gone, you can remove the power steering pump. The fitting
on the back is a 16mm, and since you must reuse this line, it is reccomended
you break it free with a flare nut wrench.

The last step to freeing yourself from the V-belt nightmare is to remove the Crank pulley. There are three 5/8" (16mm) bolts that bolt it to the balancer, and
one crank bolt in the middle. While you are down there, put the new one on.
Now is the time to start putting brackets on. There is one stud on the
passanger side. Hopefully you got the bolts and studs with the brackets, since
there are several different sizes. It is best to put the stud in first, so that you
have something to hold the bracket in place while you line other stuff up.
If the Torx bolts didn't get stripped out during removal, you can reuse them, if
so, you will need to find a suitable alternative.

There are two small studs for the drivers side bracket. You can also hang the
bracket without ever removing the powersteering pump. This is good, since it
requires a special tool to do so. After you get the bracket tightened down,
hook your lines up. It may be easier to get the line started, then hang the
bracket. Make sure it is good and tight, just don't round it off.
Now is also a good time to install the new A/C suction/discharge line. It is
reccomended that you use new O-rings, and don't forget to lubricate them with
Mineral Oil (R-12 oil) even if you are using R-134. PAG/POE oil is NOT good
for A/C orings, USE ONLY mineral oil on the o-rings. Also, don't forget to
double wrench them to tighten the fittings, and don't over tighten. They are
made of soft aluminum.

The alternator can now be installed. Your leads won't reach, since it is moved
from the other side, but we will worry about that later. There should also be
another bracket to support the back of the alternator. The one I used runs
from the back of the alternator, down to the first stud on the exhaust. Make
sure you have it! Most alternator manufacturers warranties are void if this
isn't used, and it says so in the warranty! Make sure you install it.
When you put the water pump on, make sure you use sealant on the bolts. I reccomend liquid teflon which is available at most parts stores. Also, use new
gaskets, and install them dry! NO RTV!!! You don't need it. Then put the pulley on.

The A/C compressor can be mounted and the lines hooked up. If
you are using the smog pump, install that also and use the factory
diagram to install the belt. If you are not using the smog pump, use
the alternate routing shown below. Make sure you use new O-rings
on the compressor and remember, use mineral oil.
1988 Belt Routing 1989-1992 Belt Routing
Smog Pump Delete Routing

You will now need to alter the wiring to accomodate the new location of the
alternator and compressor. The wires for the compressor will need to be
shortened (or you could just roll them up and tuck away) and the alternator
wires will need to be lengthened. Make sure you use suitable gauge wire to
lenghten the battery lead to the alternator stud, since with a partially
discharged battery, or under high load, the alternator could try and pass 60+
Amps through it! Take care of any finishing touches, top off the P/S fluid and
coolant and doublecheck everything. You can now have your A/C system
Evacuated (sucked to a vacuum) and recharged.
Before and After
[HOME]

Siamese/Port your TPI base.
Siamese and/or port your TPI Base
If you are interested in porting, siamesing, or both to your TPI base, this if for you. You can opt
to just port it, or siamese and port it. Stock TPI bases are very restrictive, and every little bit
counts.
You will need a few basics, like the porting bits.
1: cartridge rolls and a long shank

2: assorted grinding bits
3: cross buff kit.
You will also need someting to operate the bits.

An electric drill or air powered tool will work.
You will also need the TPI base. I reccomend
finding a spare, so that your car will not be down
the entire time, and if you go to far, you won't be
out a car till another can be found!
You can also go ahead

and get a new set of
intake gaskets, since
you will need them to
install the new intake.
You can use the
gaskets to outline the
ports so you know
how much to take off.
You can see how
much larger the gasket
is compared to the
manifold. You want
them to be the same
size. Also notice the
http://www.sethirdgen.org/TPIbase.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:40:41 PM]

casting bumps in the

port.
The only real instruction

needed once you mark the
gasket, is to grind grind
grind! One point to
mention is that the arrows
on the left point out what
seems to be the biggest
restriction. This is where I
remove most of my
material. I used a socket
that just barely fits in the
port as a guage so that as I
grind, I can make sure the
diameter remains
consistant. Once the socket
will pass all the way
through, I use the sanding
cartirdges to smooth it out.
If you are going to siamese the intake,

you will also need a large cutoff wheel,
and a dremel w/ a small cutoff wheel.
Use the large wheel to cut two
horizontal grooves to remove the wall
that seperates paired runners. Then with
the dremel and small wheel, cut out the
back so the piece can be removed.
Here is the "wall" that will be removed. This can be discarded.

Now you will need to use the same porting bits to remove all the
sharp edges and make everything a smooth transition.

On the left is a just

started pair of ports,
and on the right is a
completed pair. Once
you are done grinding,
use the sanding rolls to
smooth it out, and then
you can use the Cross
Buffs to make the
whole port smooth as
glass. Since this is a
dry manifold, it is OK
to make the ports real
smooth.
This manifold is ready to be cleaned and installed. Since the ports on the head side were gasket
matched to the lower intake gasket, it is best to do the same on the cylinder head if it is removed.
Obviously, if the heads are still on the motor, this isn't practicle, but is a suggestion if the heads are off.
[HOME]

Swapping a LT1 intake into a 1st Gen Small Block Chevy
John Millican's:
Swapping a LT1 intake into a 1st

Gen Small Block Chevy
People told me it won't fit. I asked more people, still no. Found a rumor one person has done it but I couldn't get in touch with him. I
decided to try myself. I bought a used LT1 intake off of e-bay for $100 including fuel rails. Not bad, I figured if it doesn't work out
I'm only out $100. Right?
You say it's impossible? Won't bolt up? Well your right but ANYTHING is possible when cost is a factor. Here's some of the biggest
issues you're going to run into and a quick explanation of what to do about it.
Problem #1, in case you haven't noticed there's no rear distributor on a LT1. I had to drill the hole for it, warning-this hole must be
in perfect location. I used a old TPI base and made an aluminum template utilizing the
rear two mounting holes to locate the dist hole. Distributor must be shimmed about 1/4" higher due to the shortness of the LT1
intake. Also must use the small HEI distributor with remote coil found on 1987-later.
Problem #2, there are several problems with the STOCK LT1 intake but the ports and coolant passages are not one of them. What I
did before I started was get a cheap $6 intake gasket from DAP and just laid it on the intake (already off the car), everything was
perfect except for some of the mounting holes, the 4 corner ones were good. No problem, I took the gasket as a temple and drilled
the new holes in the intake, no more
http://www.sethirdgen.org/LT1.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:40:48 PM]

Swapping a LT1 intake into a 1st Gen Small Block Chevy
problem.
Problem #3, No front coolant passages to return to the radiator. Well, I just drilled and tapped two 3/4" heater nipples vertically
where the coolant would normally exit the head. I will run 3/4" heater hose to a remote
thermostat housing I found on-line. it will be mounted on the fender well. It will use the same outlet neck and return to the radiator
as it should.
Problem #4, must have custom fuel lines made to attach to the fuel rail of the LT1. About $40 if you supply the ends. Available
from Pep Boys.
Problem #5, the was a temp sensor in the front of the TPI intake base, it's for the computer temp info. I will have to mod the remote
thermostat housing for an additional hole.
Now for the detailed explanations

Acquiring the parts
Modifying for the distributor
Modifying the bolt pattern
Modifying the coolant route
Modifying the fuel lines
Minor mods
Final pictures
[Millican's Home Page] [SETHIRDGEN] [Tech Index]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/LT1.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:40:48 PM]

Installing a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor --SETHIRDGEN.ORG--
Installing a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor
This is primarily advisable if you have headers. Headers tend to cool the exhast gasses down, which in turn can affect
Oxygen Sensor performance. To combat this, a self-heated sensor can be installed, to ensure proper operation regardless
of exhaust temp, and also provide shorter times to closed loop operation. I will spare you the details on actually installing
the sensor, since it doesn't take a brain surgeon, just a 7/8" wrench, sensor socket, or crowsfoot and some of your time.
The reason for this article is to explain how to properly wire it up. First, you will need the parts. I perfer to use AC Delco
parts. The quality is unsurpassed. Also to ensure proper installation, and easy replacement in the future, it is
reccomended that you purchase the "pigtail" or connector w/ leads, so that the sensor can easily be plugged and
unplugged as needed.
The part numbers for these two items are:
3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor: 25176708 GM List: $109.00
3-wire Weatherpack Connector: 12126012 GM List: $29.34
You will notice the sensor has two white wires and one black. The white wires can be interchanged, polarity does not
matter. Once must go to a good clean ground, either on the body or the engine block, and the other must go to a 12V
switched ignition source (Power w/ the key in the "RUN" position). Many people tap into the MAF power wires if you
have a MAF sensor, but any "hot" wire in RUN only will work. It can't be HOT all the time, or you will drain your
http://www.sethirdgen.org/HO2S.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:40:55 PM]
Installing a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor --SETHIRDGEN.ORG--
battery.
The black wire goes to the stock PURPLE wire that originally went to your one-wire Oxygen sensor. This is the signal
wire to the ECM.
Here is a schematic:
http://www.sethirdgen.org/HO2S.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:40:55 PM]

CS-144 Conversion for your thirdgen
Upgrading your charging system to a CS-144
If your thirdgen is like anybody elses, you've probably noticed

that the little 105 Amp, even if working properly, is hardly
sufficient to power all of today's most popular accessories. I
run dual cooling fans; both wired to come on together, I run the
A/C, and amplifier, and with head lights on and wipers, the
alternator is ready to fry. One way to correct this is to install a
CS-144, 140 Amp alternator. These are large units. It was
often "rumored" that B4C thirdgen "cop cars" had a CS-144
alternator from the factory, but it is yet to be proven. The
largest you can find in any parts catalog for these cars, even at
the dealer, was 105 Amp.
First thing you will need to do is aquire the parts. Here are the
part numbers:
Bracket: 10118722
Alternator: 10463338
It was beleived that the alternator and bracket were from the
"B4C" Camaros, but actually, the bracket was used on early
model Caprices and Cadillac Eldorados to upgrade to a 120
Amp alternator. These parts can be obtained from any GM
dealer or any online source that sells GM parts. You will also
need some hardware (bolts and nuts) to fit the alternator to the
bracket. I don't remember the sizes I used, but when I find out,
I'll update.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/cs144.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:41:26 PM]

Since these two parts were never designed to go together, some

modifications are required. The casing on the mammoth CS-
144 is to big for the support bracket, so some grinding must be
done for it to sit in the bracket. Its better to remove some from
the casing, then it is to remove from the support. You only
need to remove maybe a 1/16 of an inch. You'll have to test fit
untill both bolt holes line up. This is actually the bottom of the
alternator, so you won't see it when your done.
Once its ready to instal, go ahead and remove the Negative

Battery Cable. Then remove your alternator.
Next, you will install the bracket just like you would an
alternator using the same holes and bolts. Go ahead and tighten
them down.
Set the alternator inside the bracket and use your new hardware
to mount it to the bracket. Unfortunatly, you will not be able to
use the old support on the rear of the alternator. I have yet to
find a suitable substitute, but if and when I do, I'll update. Go
ahead and hook up your plug (yes the original plug works!) and
your charging cable. Also comes the matter of a belt. I do not
have the smog pump, so my accessories are routed a little
differently. I was using a 968K6 belt, but after the alternator
swap, I had to move up a size to a 987K6 belt (2510mm). If
you are still using a stock setup (smog pump) you'll just have to
try some larger sizes and see what works.

Here is the front and side view of it

installed. Its much larger, but it still clears the valvecovers and
there is still plenty of room to shut the hood.
I noticed after the swap that
the original charging wire was
way to small and it got very
hot. This is one thing you
don't want to skimp on! I just
purchased a new GM battery
cable (I picked through several
to find the size I needed). I'd
post the P/N, but my setup is
not stock, so it may not work
for you. I also purchased a
long battery bolt and spacer so
that I could run dual cables,
one to the alternator and the
stock one down to the starter.
[Tech Index] [Home]

Fix a sagging door on your 1982-1992 Camaro or Firebird
Fixing a sagging door
This is a very common problem, especially on 3rd Generation F-bods

since the newest one is still eight years old, and go up to eighteen! So
having a sagging door is nothing new to many owners. Hopefully this
will provide some relief. There are two reasons why a door sags, and
each instance needs a different repair. In case you can't see it in the
picture on the right, this is a worn out hinge pin. All you have to do is
raise and lower the door, and you will see all the slop in the pin and
bushing. This obviously needs replaced.
Replacing the pin and bushing requires a little patience. First step is to put masking tape on the
forward edge of the door and the rear edge of the fender. This will reduce the likelihood of the paint
chipping when removing/installing the door. Then remove the spring between the door and body. Be
careful, this spring packs a mean punch. You can get the proper tool to remove the spring from places
like Harbor Freight tools. Its very inexpensive and will be a relief when it comes time to install the
spring. You can try and tap out the pin and then unbolt the upper hinge, or vice versa, I did the pin
first. I would highly recommend having a friend help you, there is too much going on to try and
balance the heavy door end on a floor jack. There will be enough slack in the door wiring harness (if
applicable) to move the door far enough out to knock out the bushing.
This is a new pin and bushing installed. You can't see

from this picture, but my top hole on the bottom hinge
was also worn out, but there is no bushing. I simply
drilled the hole out oversize and tapped a bushing in
there also. You will then need to re-install the spring.
A little word of advise when replacing the

pins/bushings:
http://www.sethirdgen.org/sagdoor.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:43:13 PM]

The pins simply tap out, but it may be difficult to get

something on the end of the pin to tap on. You can
also take vice grips and clamp unto the center of the
pin, and tap on the vice grips to move the pin.
Also note that the bushings are BRITTLE and if not

installed carefully will crack and break.
You must orient the bushings properly. If the old ones

installed from the bottom-up like pictured, you must install
the new one the same way. To install like pictured above, I
would place a socket larger than the bushing on top of the
hole, then use a wooden paint stirrer on the bottom of the
bushing. Channel locks work great for "squeezing" it all
together. You need to use the channel locks to press the
bushing into place. The socket will allow the top of the
bushing protrude out of the hinge and the wood stirrer will
prevent damage to the soft bushing. If the bushing installs
from the top-down, then just reverse the procedure (socket
at the bottom of the hole, stirrer and bushing on top of the
hole).
The other "Cause/Correction" is simply a sagging hinge and you just need to bend it back. The pins
and bushings may be OK, but the door still sags. This is simply due to gravity pulling on the heavy
doors.
The tools you will need is pictured on the right.

They are available from a variety of places, this
one in particular was from MAC Tools (PN:
DHA7554) and retails for $55.95. Set-up is a snap
and even easier to use.

Once properly installed, all you need to do is give

a few short "tugs" upwards. This is a "trial and
error" type deal. Give it a few tugs and then take it
off and test fit it. If it needs more, hook it back up
and do some more. After the final fit is obtained,
you will be surprised with the difference. Most
body shops should have this tool, and probably any
dealership, if you wish to not purchase the tool.

Replacing your broken air dam.
Replacing your broken Air Dam
This is a real easy procedure, even if you don't have a lift. Simply raise the vehicle up and support it.
(Jack stands perfered). Then remove the remains. Below, you can see that this one was held together
with zip-ties and bailing wire. This was done on a 1987 Pontiac Trans Am. Other models and years
will vary.
When you order your new Air Dam from GM, remember that there is an upper deflector and a lower
deflector. On this car, the upper took most of the abuse. You will probably need both. Below is the
abused lower deflector, and the upper is in four pieces.
To remove the lower deflector, from the factory, it is held in place by several 7mm screws. This car
had more bailing wire than it did screws, so it all had to be cut apart. The upper deflector is held in
place by several 10mm bolts. Remove these also.
The new upper deflector comes from GM painted glossy gray for about $20. Since most of my car is
black, I painted it black also. Then install it with the 10mm bolts.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/airdam.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:43:25 PM]

Replacing your broken air dam.
Then simply screw the new lower deflector to the upper, and the rest of the body with the 7mm
screws. Start at the center and work your way out. This came from GM already black, and will set you
back another $20. Once all tightened down, thats it! Now just remember not to pull up so close to
those curbs!
[TECH] [HOME]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/airdam.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:43:25 PM]

Paint Finessing
Paint "Finessing"
This is an all too typical "scuff" on some clearcoat. It appears to

be from something being drug across the paint. Most scratches
and scuffs, as well as "orange peel" can be "finessed" out,
depending on severity. You need to tread lightly, most clearcoats
can be 3-5 mils thick, and a typical "finesse" job can remove .5-
1.0 mils of clear
If the scratch is very light, it may just need to be buffed out.

However, if its deeper, then you'll need to "wetsand" it to blend it
in with the surrounding paint. I prefer to use 2000 grit "wet-or-
dry" sand paper on a foam sanding pad. The foam pads are great
because they absorb some water, they are flexible, and the end
can be used as a squeegee like shown in the picture so you can
gauge your progress. Remember, do only what is needed, to
avoid removing excessive clearcoat. The final product should be
a dull chalky appearance, however it should be smooth.
The first stage is to buff out the wetsanding scratches. I like to

use a foam Meguires pad and some 3M Machine polish
compound. I stay away from Wool Bonnets because they are
very aggressive and can leave severe swirl marks and are more
likely to "burn through" the paint. This is a W-8000 pad which is
just right for working on wetsanded paint. One thing to look for
when selecting a buffing compound is that it contains no WAX
and no SILICONE. If you are working in a painting
environment, or working on freshly painted surface, these are two
things to avoid! 3M Machine Polish contains neither.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/finessing.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:43:48 PM]

Paint Finessing
Put some of the polishing compound on and begin to buff it out.

Some people recommend most of the work be done between the
3 and 9 o'clock positions on the pad, and some recommend
between 2 and 10 o'clock. You just need to experiment and see
what works best for you. I favor the 2 & 10 position. You
should see good results in just a few passes. I used a polisher
from Harbor Freight tools. It has variable speed which I set at
1500 RPM and one great feature is that it comes with a Velcro
backing which will let you use the Meguires pads.
The next step is to clean up whatever the buffing stage may have
done (i.e. slight swirl marks) and to give it a finer gloss. I like to
use 3M Swirl Mark Remover and a Meguires W-9000 foam pad.
Its softer than the W-8000 pad we used in the previous step.
You'll apply this just like the previous stage. Keep the pads and
the polishing compounds separate. Don't use the soft pad with
the polish and don't use the aggressive pad with the Swirl Mark
remover. The pads should be dedicated for the polish you are
using.
If this is a freshly painted panel, then simply clean off the excess
compound with a soft, clean terry cloth towel and you are done.
If this is an old panel, I like to finish it off and protect it with a
good quality wax. Once the wax dries, it can be polished off
using a polishing cloth or a clean, soft terry cloth towel. Don't
forget to get all the excess out of the cracks and seams!
And here is the final product! You'd never even know there was
a scratch there!
http://www.sethirdgen.org/finessing.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:43:48 PM]

Installing a Strut Tower Brace - SETHIRDGEN.ORG
Installing a Strut Tower Brace

First you need to size up the
brace. Lay it on the strut
towers, get it centered, and
turn the threaded portions
on each end (if it has them)
to get it the right length.
Once its centered, use some

masking tape to mark the
location of the ends, that
way if something moves, its
easy to put it exactly back
where it was withough
having to recenter it.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/stb.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:44:25 PM]

Scribe the holes, drill them

out, then paint over the
exposed metal.
Bolt on the end and make

sure it lined up w/ the
masking tape.
Install the other side, then

set the bar down on the ends
and bolt it up. Once its all
tight, you can tighten the
jamb nuts on the bar so it
doesn't turn. Make sure its
level!

[Home] [Tech Index]

Replacing a Convertible Top
Here is what the top on the car looked like.

It was a cheap vinyl top that was poorly intalled.
First lets go over the names of parts for the folding mechanism. The entire folding mechanism is call
the "Top Stack". Here are some parts that make up the Top Stack:
A: Bow #1
B: Bow #2
C: Bow #3
D: Bow #4
E: Bow #5
F: Backlight Staypad
http://www.sethirdgen.org/convertibletop.htm (1 of 9) [4/10/2004 11:45:52 PM]

G: Quarter section headliner (front section removed)

H: Rear Rail
I: Top Retention Cable
J: Side Staypad
First you need to remove the two elastic straps that are screwed to
the folding assembly. They help retain the corners at the rear of
the windows.
The only thing that holds the back of the top in place is cement.
Its glued to Bow #5. Once you remove the elastic straps, you can
peel the top off of Bow #5.
Once you peel the top off of Bow #5, remove the side rail
weather strips. They may be glued in place, they may not, just be
careful!

Now remove the three screws that holds the weather strip retainer
in place and you can peel the top away from the side rail area.
Now we need to remove the front of the Top. Remove the large
black trim piece (aka Garnish Molding) from around the latches
and remove all the screws from the Top's edge retainer.
Under the retainer, the Top is glued to Bow #1. Simply peel it
back as well.
You will find the retention cable threaded through the sides of the
top and screwed to Bow #1. Remove this screw, one on each
side.

With the top peeled back more, you can start to remove the Front
Headliner. The very front edge is glued to Bow #1, simply peel it
back. Then, there is an attachment to Bow #2, which simply
clips to the bow. Use a small screwdriver and pry down on the
long plastic clip.
Once you remove the headliner from Bow #2, you will notice that
the Top is attached to Bow #2. To attach the top, there is a
"pocket" sewn to the top all the way across with a metal rail
inside, then the rail it screwed to the Bow. Remove the three
screws that attach the rail to the Bow, pull the top away from the
Bow and slide the rail out.
Now you can remove the remainder of the Front Headliner. It

bolts to Bow #3 with several screws. Remove these screws and
remove the front headliner from the car.

With the Front Headliner removed, pull back on the Rear

Headliner and remove the three screws that holds the rail that
attaches the Top to Bow #3 (just like whats used on Bow #2).
Pull the pocket out of the Bow and slide the metal rail of the of
the pocket. You should now be able to completely remove the
top from the Frame.
Lay the new Top on the Frame assembly and center it. You will
now need to thread the retention cables through the pocket on the
new Top. I used a coat hanger that I straightened out and put a
small hook on the end and pushed the hanger through the pocket,
hooked the cable it and pulled it through. The cable may be to
flexible to simply push it through. The cable is spring loaded, so
once threaded, you'll have to stand the top up to screw the
retaining bolt in.
Now you need to feed the metal rails through the pockets of the
new top. I used a sharp punch to line the holes up, then dropped
the rail down in the Bow and started the screws. You need to do
this for Bow #3 and Bow #2.

Take your cement and put a layer on the Side Rail of the folding
assembly and on the Top. Press it firmly down and smooth out
any wrinkles or bubbles. The edge of the top (next to the rear of
the window) should be at the corner of the rail.
Install the Weather Strip retainer to help secure the Top in place.
Don't install the weather strip yet, in case you need to make
adjustments.
You now need to cement both sides of Bow #5 and attach the
top. You will need to trim some of the "flap" off and tuck it under
the weatherstrip. Smooth out any wrinkles and bubbles. Do not
lower Bow #5 until the glue dries, because the tension on the top
will pull all of this out.

This next step is something I did, to help retain the top to Bow
#5. Its something you have to be VERY careful if you want to
do. First, I made a set of screws that were very short and have no
point. I just took some short self tapping screw, and cut and filed
the tips off. I then drilled through the "flap" of the Top at the
seams and through Bow #5. You must drill VERY SLOWLY so
that once you penetrate the metal, STOP or you will puncture the
top. Make sure the screw does not protrude past Bow #5 or it
will puncture the Top.
Here is the screw installed. Double check to make sure the tip of
the screw does not protrude out of the other side! I was able to
trim it so that it sits flush. This will help keep the sides from
peeling away.
Now test fit the front edge of the Top. You want it some what
snug and no wrinkles. I got it like I wanted and temporarily held
in place with clothespins.

Stand the top up and glue the edge to the #1 Bow. I left the
clothespins in place until the glue dried.
Put the retainer back in place with all the screws previously
removed. You will also need to glue the edge of the headliner to
the bottom of the Bow as seen here. I lined the old holes in the
headliner up with the trim holes in the bow so that I knew I had it
back on right. You may want to shut the top and inspect from
inside to make sure the liner is pulled tight evenly (no wrinkles
between Bow #1 and #2).
Re-install the Garnish Molding that goes across the top and
around the handles.

Re-install the Rail Weather Strip. There is a "Tab" on both sides

of the weather strip that must be tucked into its appropriate
channel on both sides of the retainer. Double check the
alignment and fit of all the seals and the rest of the top.
The only think left is to stand back and admire!

Untitled
Adjusting the TV Cable: 4L60 (700R-4)
This is a very simple and misunderstood procedure. The transmission uses the TV Cable to adjust
pressures according the throttle position. With the throttle at WOT, the TV Cable should be maxed
out. To acheive this, follow this procedure:
The absolute first step is to find the TV Cable

adjusting mechanism. If you don't have a clue, it
is on a bracket with a cable going to the throttle
linkage. A TPI is shown, but the TBI and Carb are
similar.
The next step is to push in on the "D"

button on the adjuster mechanism. While
pushing down on the button, you need to
push in the cable retainer until it bottoms
out. You may have to push very hard on
the "D" button, it may be stiff.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/tvcable.htm (1 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:46:05 PM]

Untitled
Once the cable retainer is bottomed out, then you

need to turn the throttle blades (by turning the
throttle linkage) all the way. This may require
some effort, since the TV Cable will need to
ratchet out of the adjuster. Rotate the throttle all
the way and the adjuster will "ratchet" out. Once
you are sure the throttle is all the way, then no
further adjustments are needed. DO NOT open the
throttle from the gas pedal, this may cause
inaccurate adjustments.
[HOME] [TECH INDEX]
http://www.sethirdgen.org/tvcable.htm (2 of 2) [4/10/2004 11:46:05 PM]

Installing a Corvette Servo into your 700R-4
Tranny Upgrade Part I (Corvette Servo)
This seems to be one of the most popular tranny upgrades next to a shift kit, and usually done in conjunction with a shift kit. The Corvette's "YDM" transmission is unique to all other
4L60s (700R-4) in part to its very large 2nd Apply Piston. Take a look at the picture:
This is the piston housing. The Corvette's is on the left, and the standard F body is on the
right. There is actually a third size (not shown) that has an even larger piston size used for
non-performance vehicles.
The other half to the servo is the piston. Once again, the YDM (Corvette) is on the left and
the F-body on the right. Notice the substantial difference in size. The larger piston allows for
more holding power.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/servo.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:47:28 PM]

Installation is a snap, and some good news: 1) you won't have to lower the transmission, and 2) you only loose about a quart of fluid.
First thing you need to do is raise the car up, either with jackstands or a lift, ramps, or
whatever you have, just make sure it is safe. Then locate the servo cover (painted black in
this picture). There is a snap-ring to hold it into place. I cheated and used the "special GM
tool" to depress the cover to remove the ring, but a simple prybar against the transmission
tunnel will work, then just pry out the ring, and remove the cover.

The cover has a large O-ring around it and may make it difficult to remove, just make sure you purchase new seals, because this one will probably tear. When you order the servo, it will
come with Teflon rings, but you will need the Cover O-ring, and the Housing O-ring. Once the cover is off, the trick is to disassemble the servo in the case. First remove the housing. Then
remove the E-clip, washer and spring.
Cover and 4th (overdrive) Piston removed. Cover, 4th Piston, E-clip, Washer, Spring, and Housing removed.
Once all of this is removed, you will probably need to employ the services of a friend. You will need to pry the transmission towards the drivers side (or away from the passenger side).
You may need to take the nut off of the crossmember to allow more movement. You want to pry it over far enough so that the apply piston will clear the transmission tunnel with the servo
attached. If you have to lower your trans to get it out, just make sure you remove your distributor cap so you don't risk breaking it. I didn't have to lower mine.
Once out, you will see that there is a "plate" inside the piston and is spring loaded. You will need to squeeze this together and remove the snap-ring. Once apart, the servo will separate
from the pin/spring assembly. Simply install the new servo onto the pin, squeeze the assembly back together and install the snap-ring. Install the new seals and use ATF to lubricate the
assembly. When you go to put the assembly back in the trans, look out for the spring still in the case. It may still be on the "nub" or it may have fallen. If you feel inside the case, you will
see the hole for the pin is in a raised "nub" and the spring must rest around this nub. Then pry on he tranny again and install the assembly. Once in, push on the assembly, it should feel
springy. If it does, its in right.

On the left is
the Piston.
Make sure
you get a
new seal (as
shown,
RED). The
side you see
goes in
towards the
transmission.
On the right
is the 4th
Piston.
Notice the
nub on top.
This goes
towards the
outside of
the
transmission.
Install the Piston, and then the 4th Piston. Once all in place, install the cover (with new seal of course). Using the same method for removal, depress the cover into the case, and install the
snap-ring. Re-install everything that was undone, lower the car, and check you fluid level and add as necessary. Enjoy!
Part Numbers:
Piston: 8642079
Housing: 8673039
[TECH INDEX] [HOME]

Untitled
Changing speedo gears (4L60/700-R4)
This is a fairly simple procedure. First, you need to determine what speedo gears you need. There are
many "gear calculators" out there, to tell you the drive/driven gear tooth count, or they tell you what
color you need. I replaced my speedo gears since I went from 2.73s to 3.73s and this is a large step,
wich would have resulted in about a 15 MPH error in the speedo.
If you are putting in 3.73s, I can tell you that you need the gray drive gear, and light blue driven gear.
Part numbers:
25513052; 8642620
After you get the gears you need, you will have to remove the Torque Arm and Driveshaft. There are
only two bolts holding the T/A on, and it will slide right out of the bushing. Then the driveshaft bolts
are 11mm to remove the two U-joint straps and remove the shaft.
This is a back view of the tranny with the T/A and

Driveshaft removed. You will need to remove the
"sleeve" if it has a speedo cable, and the "VSS" if
it has an electric speedo. This is a 10mm bolts,
and simply pry it out.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/vss.htm (1 of 4) [4/10/2004 11:47:52 PM]

Untitled
Here is my VSS with the old "red" gear

installed. It simply pulls off, and slide
the new gear on. It should slip on and off
easily. On the right is the new Lt Blue
gear.
There are four 15mm bolts that hold the

tailhousing on. Once you remove the bolts, the
tailhousing will pull right off. Pull straight back so
you don't scratch the driveshaft support bushing.
Here is the "drive" gear. It is almost pressed

on. There is also a retaining clip to keep it
from moving around on the shaft.

Untitled
You must be careful in removing the gear, so you

don't damage the clip. You will need to press in
on the end of the clip, as you move the gear off the
shaft. Like said earlier, it is almost pressed on the
shaft, so you will need something to help you
remove the gear. I use a 32mm wrench to "tap" it
off the shaft. If you don't get the gear to clear the
clip, you will damage the clip.
Here is a close-up of the clip, so that you know

what you are working with. I know what you will
think when you tap the gear off and the clip goes
flying. "OH no, there are TWO holes in the output
shaft, and I didn't see which hole the clip went
into". Relax. When you go to put the drive gear
on, install the clip in the hole towards the FRONT
of the car, then install the tailhousing on the
tranny, and make sure the VSS hole is centered on
the drive gear.
I used the same 32mm wrench to install the new

gear. It can be tricky, because you need to line the
clip hole of the gear, to the hole in the output
shaft. It has to be lined up perfectly, because once
the gear is installed, it can not be rotated on the
shaft. Remember, put the clip in the foward hole,
and VERIFY the VSS hole is CENTERED on the
drive gear.

Untitled
If you had a leaking output shaft seal like I did,

now is the perfect time to replace it. Its real easy
now, since you don't have the output shaft in the
way. You will need to order the seal, and
tailhousing square-cut seal (shown here) when you
order the gears. Once this is done, re-install the
tailhousing.
Put the VSS (or sleeve) back in the tailhousing. You may need to turn the output shaft to get the two
speedo gears to mesh. Once installed, you will need to hook the electrical connector back up (or put
the speedo cable back on). Re-install the T/A and driveshaft, and thats it.
[HOME]

T-5 Speedo Gear Swap
Replacing Speedo Gears on a T-5 Manual Transmission
Yes, replacing the speedometer drive gear in a T-5 tranny is much harder than its counterpart,
the 700R-4, but its still something that can be done in the driveway by average DIYers, w/
common handtools.
The first step is to remove the center console. Then remove the rubber shifter boot bolted to the
transmission tunnel. With the transmission in Nuetral (and parking brake on), remove the four
bolts holding the shifter to the tranny.
WithWith the shifter removed, you will now need

to remove the roll pin in the "offset shift
lever". You will need to tap the roll pin
straight down enough for the shift shaft to move
freely. Don't try to remove it, just make sure it
moves independantly of the shift shaft.
Now raise and support the vehicle. Release the parking brake (the wheels need to be able to
turn). Remove the driveshaft, be very careful of the U-joint endcaps, then can easily fall off and
the needle bearings may fall out.
Remove the top bolt of the Torque Arm mount and remove the outer half of the mount. This will
allow you to move the Torque Arm towards the drivers side and up against the body.
With a jack under the tranny, remove the

crossmember bolts starting w/ the tranny
mount nut (1) then the four bolts (2-5).
Once this is done, you can lower the tranny
and let it hang (the engine mounts will
support it). Now is also a great time to
replace your mount if it is shot or
upgrade. There are only two bolts holding
it on at this point.
http://www.sethirdgen.org/t5speedo.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:48:10 PM]

You may need to remove the remainder of the

Torque Arm mount, and you may not. This vehicle
had a large vibration dampner on the end of it, so it
had to come off. There are two long bolts holding it
on, one welded to the bracket, both w/ nuts on the
other side. The bracket is not removable untill the
tranny is lowered away from the body. Once you
have the tranny lowered, you can remove the 8 bolts
holding the extension housing to the case. Make
sure you have a large catch pan, you will loose about
3-4 quarts.
Once you remove the 8 bolts, you can break the seal loose by tapping on the end of the extenion
housing. Once you break the seal, let the fluid drain out. Then reach on top of the housing and
grap the offset shift lever (the item we tapped the roll pin out of earlier) and guide it off the shift
shaft as you slide the extension housing off the output shaft/shift shaft.
Be very carefull once you remove the
extension housing. The offset shift lever
has a spring loaded ball in it and you don't
want to lose them or the roll pin that you
tapped out.
You can now start to remove the plastic

speedo drive gear. Two words of caution.
The gear is fragile, and has been known to
shatter if handled to roughly, and the gear
is retained by a metal clip. You will need
to push down on the retaining tap while
you gently tap the gear off. I use a 30mm
open ended wrench against the gear, then
tap on the wrench to remove the gear.
Getting the new gear on can be a challenge. Removing the gear, you found out how tight of a fit
it is. You will have to tap the new gear on also. You will also have to be very carefull in lining
up the gear w/ the clip. If it isn't lined up, you will have to remove the gear and try again. Place
the clip in the hole and tap on gear over the clip. Make sure it locks in on teh gear (like it was
when you removed it). The driven gear (located on the VSS sender or cable housing) can easily
be accessed now, and should now be swapped out if needed.

Now that you are ready for re-assembly,

make absolutely sure the bearing and
plastic funnel are still on the 5th gear
(overdrive) assembly. These are very
important if not in place, and can easily
have fallen off during dissasembly.
With that said, you can now put the extension housing back on. If you noticed that there was no
gasket or O-ring, you are correct. You should use the reccomended sealant, wich is Anerobic
Sealer. Use it just like RTV and spread it evenly over the mating surface. Once you slide the
extension housing over the shafts, you will need to reach back on top of the housing and guide
the offset shift lever back on the shift shaft. This is tricky because you need to make sure the
spring and ball are installed into the offset shift lever and that they didn't fall out. You may
need to crawl up inside the car halfway through installation to make sure its going together
properly. Install the 8 housing bolts.
Reinstall the remaining removed components (Torque Arm mount, crossmember, Torque Arm
and driveshaft). Once you get under the car all back together, remove the fill plug on the side of
the tranny (there are two plugs, the lower being the drain, and the upper being the fill). My
secret to filling this back up easily, it to pour the fluid into the top of the extension housing since
the shift lever is out. It has a drainback hole, and you can't overfill because once it gets to the
proper level, the remaining will flow out the fill hole. Then reistall the fill plug.
You will need to align the hole in the shift shaft w/ the hole in the offset shift lever so the rollpin
can be re-installed. Tap in the rollpin and reintall the shift lever and shifter boot, along w/ the
center console.
Make a quick double check that everything is tight and there are no extra parts, and enjoy!

WWW.SETHIRDGEN.ORG Southeastern Thirdgen F-body
See some of the

SETHIRDGEN members!
Charging system need a "boost"?
Click on the picture to veiw the

members, or to add/modify your
profile!
Check out how to install a 140 Amp alternator and other great
tech articles in Tech Central.
Timeslips and Dyno runs!

--Site News--
October 1, 2003: This month's

Featured Ride is up! Congrats to
SE3GO Chat!!! Tony and his nice '91 RS!
You must have AOL Instant Messenger. Click HERE to download, or click the "SE3GO
Chat" above to start chatting! August 2, 2003: A new article has
been added on replacing a
covertible top. Check out the "Tech
Central" to find out more!
July 31, 2003: This month's

Featured Ride is up! Congrats go
out to Jason Hezel.
July 13, 2003: A new article has

been added on correcting fine
clearcoat scratches. If this is you,
check out the tech articles!
June 30, 2003: Congrats to Jonh

Pender for being July's Featured
Ride!
June 16, 2003: Congratulations
http://www.sethirdgen.org/index.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:48:18 PM]

once again to Tom Casey for being

featured in August's edition of
Popular Hotrodding! Its on
newstands now to make sure you
get it!!!
June 1, 2003: June's featured ride

is up! Congrats to Tom Casey!
May 1, 2003: May's featured ride

is up! Start nominating
somebody for June today!
March 31, 2003: April's Featured

Ride is here! Check it out, and get
ready to vote for next month's
featured ride, it could be you!
March 2, 2003:
March's Featured Ride is up! Check
it out, and don't forget to nominate
yourself or somebody on the
message board for April!!!
February 1, 2003:
This month's Featured Ride is up!
Check out Steve Philips droptop!
January 10, 2003:

The website has gone through some
updating, as well as the message
board being upgraded to UBB 6.4
There will be a featured ride next
month so stay tuned to see who it is!
January 1, 2003:
Happy New Year! Its a new year
and new things are coming for
SETHIRDGEN.ORG!
The Chevrolet Camaro Z28 and Pontiac Firebird Trans Am are both registered trademarks of General Motors. This site is in no way
affiliated with General Motors.
All content © 2000-2003 SETHIRDGEN.ORG, All rights reserved. No part of this website may be reproduced without the
expressed, documented consent of SETHIRDGEN's Administrators.


700R4 700R4 700R4 adjustments 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4 700R4
700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4 700r4
700R4 / 4L60 – Transmission

FREE
"Advisory Tip Sheet"
This information is provided for the non-transmission mechanic to help them identify the problem, know how much the job
should cost and how to have the problem corrected. This information could save you hundreds even a thousand dollars or
more..
This transmission has been in use since 1982. This means there are plenty of used, rebuilt and new hard parts available at low
prices. The cost of a rebuilt 700R4 transmission and torque converter installed in a car or two-wheel drive truck at our shop is
$880.00 as of October 2003. This comes with a 6 month or 6,000 mile warranty. The cost may be higher in your area.
Never allow a repair shop to give you a price on this transmission that isn’t a guaranteed price. This means don’t get a price
plus hard parts. They know about what the parts will cost. Remember the parts aren’t high on this transmission. Get the price
before the transmission is removed from the car or truck. If they can’t give you a price up front, you’re at the wrong shop.
When you have a problem with your transmission always check the fluid level and condition first. The fluid should be red, not
dark brown or black. Smell the fluid to see if it smells like oil or has a burnt smell.
Look in the oil pan for trash (debris) from a clutch or metal part failure. A very small amount of debris could be normal. If the
fluid is black, smells burnt or has a large amount of debris in it, you’ve got a problem. The transmission will have to be
removed and rebuilt. Always install a new torque converter when the transmission is rebuilt. Never try to save money by
reusing a torque converter that is full of debris from a failed transmission. This 700R4 converter also has a clutch in it that
could be bad.
Look to see if the throttle valve cable (passing gear cable) is connected to the carburetor or throttle body in the case of fuel
injection. The cable must be hooked up and adjusted correctly at all times, because this controls the pressure. When you step
on the gas pedal the throttle valve cable turns the transmission pressure up. This is how to make the adjustment on the cable.
With the throttle wide open, the cable must be fully pulled out at the exact same time. The adjustment is made at the bracket.
You must push a button in or pull a button out to move the cable housing forward or rearward. Moving the cable housing to the
rear raises the pressure. Be careful, if you adjust the pressure too low you could burn the clutches.
When you have your 700R4 transmission rebuilt it’s always better to get your original transmission back. Because the 700R4
comes in everything from the S-10 pickup to the much larger Suburban. If you get the wrong 700R4 in your car or truck, the
transmission won’t work correctly or last vary long. The calibrations are different for each type car or truck. Never install a V-6
transmission with fewer clutches on a V-8 motor.
If you have a 1982-83-84 car or truck never drive it with the wires on the side of the transmission unplugged. This will overheat
the transmission on a long trip. On a 1985 or later it is O K to have the wires unplugged, because of a design change made in
late 1984. The only part of this transmission that is electronic is the torque converter lockup. You will still have all four speeds
with the wires unplugged.
Place the transmission in drive position, when towing a trailer, not overdrive position (on a stock 700R4). A stock transmission
will only tow a light trailer and last. The 700R4 didn’t come in a one ton truck, because it isn’t strong enough for a one ton in
stock form. If you need a one ton get one. Don’t tow a trailer that is too heavy for your car or truck.
There is no need to replace a 700R4 with a 350 transmission, because the 350 transmission isn’t any stronger and you will only
save about $100.00 to $150.00 on the swap. Also your gas mileage will drop. The money saved will be eaten up in higher gas
cost in no time. You can get up to 40% better gas mileage with an overdrive.
There is no need for a shift kit in this unit, because you can get better results by installing a larger Corvette servo or even a
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/700r4.htm (1 of 17) [4/11/2004 12:30:04 AM]

high performance servo. We charge $105.00 parts & labor for this H. P. servo. You can also install extra 3-4 clutches and a
larger pressure valve at a small charge when rebuilding the unit. Also there are oversize overdrive servos on the market.
If you have a problem with the front seal, installing a new seal is a waste of time and money, it will only leak or blow off again.
You must install a new seal, torque converter and rebuild the pump all at the same time to correct this front seal leak. This
should cost about $360.00 plus tax.
The 700R4 transmission will not last in a 4-wheel drive truck that has oversize tires, unless both rear end ratios are changed to
allow for the larger tire size. You should be turning at least 2,000 RPM's at 70 miles per hour.
If your transmission doesn’t shift out of first gear or shifts hard at too high a R.P.M. this doesn’t always mean you have a
problem. This could be a stuck throttle valve caused by a small piece of trash. This sometimes happens after a rebuild.
Sometimes the throttle valve can be unstuck without removing the valve body. Get up to about 20 to 30 M.P.H. and hit the gas
pedal on and off hard with your foot. This might do the job. If that doesn’t work remove the throttle valve cable end from the
throttle, with the motor at idle in park, pull the cable in and out very fast, this might work, if not the valve body must be removed
by a transmission shop to be unstuck. This could cost $50.00 to $100.00.
Change your fluid and filter about every 20,000 miles. This is a preventive measure, not a fix for a problem.
As a general rule the better the warranty, the higher the price. Most shops have a local warranty, meaning they do their own
warranty work. You will pay alot more for a national warranty. We charge $100.00 extra for a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty on a
700R4 transmission.
If your transmission shifts at too low a R.P.M. at wide open throttle this can be raised by installing lighter governor springs. As
a general rule the 1-2 shift should happen at 40 to 45 M.P.H. when the throttle is to the floor. The governor is a speed sensor; if
it sticks the transmission won’t shift or takes off in 2nd gear. If this happens in an older transmission, it is most likely caused by
debris in the fluid from a part failure. If this happens in a newly rebuilt transmission this could be caused from old debris
coming from the fluid cooler. If your transmission doesn’t shift out of first gear look and see if the governor gear is stripped.
If you have a 1982, 1983 or early 1984 transmission (27 spline input shaft) it can be replaced by a 1988 up transmission for a
better feel. The wires don’t have to be hooked up on a 1985 up transmission. This works well on the early S-10 Blazer, because
when they get old it will rattle when the torque converter locks up. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984 transmissions the
transmission will burn up if the torque converter doesn't lock-up.
If you have a sudden large loss of fluid on a 700R4, look to see if the governor cap has come off. This can happen when
someone left the safety clip off of the governor cap. The case has a hole for the clip but they don’t come with a clip from the
factory. Use a governor clip from a 350 transmission.
Never use a transmission additive that says it will stop leaks. This will turn your seals to mush over a period of time.
If your 700R4 transmission has high mileage, don’t try to do a patch job, if you develop a problem have it rebuilt. Over 100,000
miles is high mileage.
If you don’t have a lot of experience installing transmissions, don’t buy the transmission from a re-builder and install it
yourself. If a shop rebuilds and installs your transmission, they will only charge you one installation fee, regardless of how
many times they have to take it back out. If you do the job, it’s your problem if the transmission is defective.
Some problems that can be mistaken as a transmission problem are motor mounts, fuel filter, spark plug wires, catalytic
converter, fan clutch, U-joints and others. Never rebuild your transmission without an expert diagnosis first. When it’s done,
you may still have the same problem.
We can build you a high performance 700R4 transmission (700 Raptor) with all of the updates. This transmission comes with a
high performance intermediate servo that has far more holding power than a Corvette servo. It will give a firmer 1-2 and 2-3
shift. It also has a high performance overdrive servo with 50% more holding power than the stock overdrive servo. This servo
gives a firmer 3-4 shift. This 700r4 has 7 Blue Plate Special clutches in the 3-4 clutch drum. One extra clutch is added to
reverse. Our 700R4 come with the Mega Valve for higher pressure and firmer shifts and a oversize low / reverse boost valve. All
of our high performance 700R4 transmissions come with a 13 vane high performance pump and "The Beast" reaction shell.
Also included in the price is a heavy-duty stall converter with furnace brazed fins for added strength. This torque converter can

be ordered with stall speeds of 1800, 2000, 2300, 2600 and 2800 RPM. Some of the other features are a 30 spline input shaft,
special Transgo separator plate if needed, extra wide sun gear bushing, special governor springs, Raybestos Pro Series Kevlar
2 / 4 band, heavy-duty 29 element sprag and roller clutch. Also included in this package deal is a throttle valve cable, dipstick
and tube and an automatic converter lock-up switch. Overall this is the best 700R4 on the market at the best price. I have one in
my one ton Suburban with 463 cubic inches and 455 foot pounds of torque. I pull a 5500 pound trailer in overdrive all the time.
This 700R4 transmission can be shipped to you anywhere for the sum of $1695.00. This price includes the core charge. You
don’t need a trade-in. Update your ride to the best 700R4 overdrive on the market. The freight charge is $110.00 to $150.00 in
most cases. See www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm for free freight deals, free t-shirts offers, free cooler offers and
free deep pan offers.
Testimonials Toll Free 1-888-8771008
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center
SUBJECT: Proper installation of the throttle valve cable on after-market carburetors or fuel injections. This information applies
to all 700R4, 4L60 and 200-4R transmissions. Throttle valve cable adjustment instructions, numbers 4, 5 and 6.
#1. The button that the cable hooks to at the carburetor or throttle body must have a 1 and 3/32-inch radius from the center of
the throttle shaft to the center of the button the cable hooks to.
#2. Looking at the throttle shaft lever from the left side at idle position, 33% of the throttle lever total travel must be to the rear
of the throttle shaft centerline. And at wide-open throttle, 67% to the front of the throttle shaft centerline. This will be about ½-
inch to the rear and 1 inch to the front of the throttle shaft centerline.
#3. The throttle valve cable must be hooked up in this manner so the pressure will rise faster off idle and slow down at heavy
throttle. If the pressure cable is pulled in a more even manner the pressure will be too low at light throttle. Failure to hook-up
the throttle cable in this way will burn the three-four clutch pack up fast.
#4. The throttle valve cable controls transmission pressure. Adjusting this cable is the most important step when installing a
700R4, 4L60 or 200-4R transmission.
#5. The final step is to adjust the throttle valve cable. The cable must be adjusted so it is pulled fully out at wide-open throttle.
To make sure disconnect the cable, hold the throttle wide open with your left hand, pull the cable fully out with your right hand
and see if the cable end lines up with the button on the throttle lever. The cable should also be pulled out 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch at
idle.
#6. Do not attempt to adjust the shift timing with the throttle valve cable. The shift timing is controlled by the governor springs.
For higher shift points at wide-open throttle, install lighter springs. For lower shift points at wide-open throttle, install stronger
springs.

#7. You can get a cable button off of a junk GM vehicle and weld it to your throttle valve lever. We sell a cable correction kit for
Holley and Edelbrock carburetors.
#8. Sometimes on a newly rebuilt 700R4 or 200-4R transmission, it may not make the 3-4 shift when first installed. A stuck
valve, trash in the fluid or an air pocket, usually causes this. Raise the rear wheels off the ground, place the transmission in
overdrive position. Run the speedometer as high as 100 miles per hour, pop the throttle on and off and see if you can force a 3-
4 shift. Once it makes the first 3-4 shift, work the shift lever back and forth between drive and overdrive until the 3-4 shift works
correctly.
#9. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor, you must install an adapter on the carburetor linkage for the transmission to
work correctly.
Published in Transmission Digest, May 2001
Diagnosing a noise can be a real challenge, to say the least. One reason is that what creates a noise does not
always look damaged.
Many types of noise are transmission related. Sometimes it's nothing more than a normal noise that sounds
louder because of bad mounts or because part of the transmission is touching the frame or underbody of the car.

Then there are actual components like pumps, planets, final drives or even something like a valve buzz that can
cause you to want to tear your hair out. The trick is to find a way to make the noise change, or stop, and then
examine what this change did to affect the noise.
There are several rules that will help isolate the component that is causing the problem. First of all, a
component cannot generate a noise if it is not moving. This sounds easy enough but is often overlooked. Next, if
the noise is pressure related, it will change when the pressure changes.
The following is a list of components that commonly make noise, and simple methods of diagnosing them:
Pumps...
Pump noises are simple. They change when pressure changes. Take, for example, a 4T60-E that has a noise
whether it is in or out of gear. Because of this the torque converter can be ruled out. Putting the transmission in
gear stops the entire gear train from turning. This rules out the entire gear train. At this point, the only suspect is
the pump (or some other hydraulic component such as the pressure-regulator valve).
The test here is to vary line pressure by changing the vacuum at the modulator. If the noise varies with a change
in pressure, its time to look at the pump (including the pump drive shaft). If this were an AXOD, pulling the TV cable
would do the trick. With a 4L60-E, disconnecting the solenoid wire harness will work. A restricted filter can also
cause pump noises. The best way to check this is with a pressure gauge. If the noise is caused by a clogged filter,
the needle will vibrate when the demand for pressure increases.
Torque Converters...
Torque converter noises are easy to isolate. Since the entire converter (pump, turbine and stator) turns while the
transmission is in park and neutral, a converter noise will go away in those ranges. When the transmission is in
gear and the drive wheels are stationary, the turbine in the torque converter doesn't spin, because the turbine shaft
is stationary. This is when the bearing between the turbine and main housing of the converter is working. If the
noise is there only in gear with the drive wheels stationary and goes away in neutral, suspect the torque converter.
There is an exception with the AOD transmission. The direct drum of an AOD is always turning while the engine is
running. For this reason, a torque converter noise can be easily confused with the noise made by one of the direct
drum bearings.
Tip: A torque converter noise will get quieter as the drive wheels begin rolling slowly from a stop.
Planetary and bearings...

These make the most difficult noises to diagnose. This is where it is important to remember the first rule: A
component cannot make a noise if it is not moving. The trick here is to remember that when two components are
rotating in the same direction at the same speed, they are, in effect, not moving relative to each other.
For example, a 4T60-E has a noise in neutral while stationary. The noise goes away when the transmission is in
gear. Right away, you can rule out the torque converter. Since the pump is producing the same pressure in neutral
as it is in gear, you can also rule it out. The final drive can't be the problem, because a final drive makes noise only
when the vehicle is moving. Here is where it gets tricky.
Remember, a component cannot make a noise if it is not moving. Also, two components that are rotating at the
same speed in the same direction are considered not moving relative to each other. Since third gear has a 1:1 ratio,
The planetary are not rotating relative to each other while the transmission is in third gear. This means that if the
noise is caused by either planet, it will go away when the transmission shifts to third gear.
Unfortunately, although the noise is quieter in third gear, it is still there. Further diagnosis requires an intimate
knowledge of the unit being tested. Now, the noise did not go away in third gear, but it did change in pitch as the
unit shifted to the next gear. If the noise is not coming from a planet and changes pitch as the transmission shifts,
it must be from a component that is connected to the turbine shaft. This leaves the two sprockets and their related
bearings; all other components have been eliminated.

Final drives...
These noises are perhaps the easiest of all to diagnose. The noise will increase in pitch as vehicle speed
increases. The important thing to remember here is that the noise will not change with engine speed or when the
transmission shifts, only with vehicle speed. However, its easy to mistake the noise from a bad power train mount
for a final drive noise. Here again, check the mounts carefully first.
As with other diagnoses, finding the cause of a noise is a process of elimination. Knowing which component is
not causing the malfunction is as important as knowing which component is causing the malfunction. Rule out as
many sources as possible by using clear testing methods, and see which components are left.
2WD - 700R4
Speedometer Calibration
Variables such as the vehicle's axle ratio and
tire diameter affect the accuracy of the
speedometer. The following speedometer drive A spring clip retains the speedometer drive
gears and driven gears are available for the 700R4 gear on the transmission output shaft.
/ 4L60 transmissions. Most cars and trucks with
low rear end ratios will take a 15 tooth drive gear.
One driven gear housing for 34 - 39 tooth driven
gears and another housing for 40 - 45 tooth driven
gears.
Twelve speedometer driven gears are

available for the 700R4 / 4L60
transmissions to calibrate the speedometer
with various axle ratios and tire diameters.
The number on the driven gear housing
must match the number of teeth on the
driven gear. Unless driven gears with more
than 45 teeth and / or drive gears with

fewer than 15 teeth become available, it will

be impossible without using a ratio adapter
to have an accurate speedometer with rear
end gear ratios lower (higher numerically)
than 4.10:1, unless 27 inch or larger tires
are installed
With 15 Tooth Drive Gear
Axle Ratio Tire Height Driven Gear Teeth

4.56 33 42
4.56 35 39
45 will work, but will read about 3 MPH fast at
4.10 26
50 MPH.
4.10 27 45
4.10 28 44
4.10 29 43
4.10 30 41
4.10 31 40
4.10 33 38
4.10 35 35
3.73 26 43
3.73 27 42
3.73 27 1/2 41
3.73 28 40
3.73 29 39
3.73 30 38
3.73 31 36
3.73 28 45
3.73 29 44
3.42 26 45
3.42 26 1/2 44
3.42 27 43
3.42 28 42
3.23 26 45
3.23 26 1/2 44
3.23 27 43
3.23 28 42

700R4 / 4L60 Transmission Assembly Specifications
Transmission A
B C D E
Dimensions
700R4 30-3/4" 23-3/8" 22-1/2" 3-3/4" 20"
These specs are for the best one GM builds.
Type: Automatic four-speed overdrive with torque Maximum Gross Weight: 8600 lbs.
converter clutch. Fluid Capacity: 11 qts. approx. (dry)
Gear Ratios: 1st-3.06, 2nd-1.63, 3rd-1.00, 4th- (Refer to service manual for complete instructions on
0.70, Reverse-2.29 fluid fill capacity.)
Converter Diameter: 298mm (11.7 inches) Fluid Type: Dextron III
Converter Stall Torque Ratio: 1.91 Weight (with converter): 164 lbs. (dry), 184 lbs. (wet)
Maximum Engine Speed: 6250 RPM Shift Quadrant: P, R, N, D, 3, 2, 1
Maximum Towing Capacity: 7000 lbs.
Print This Page Out Now

This is the same tip sheet we've sold for years for $9.95.
2WD Transmission Swap Information
Swap a 350 transmission with a six inch tail to a 700R4 transmission:

#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut three inches.
#2. The cross member will need to be moved two or three inches.
#3. The passing gear cable bracket on the motor can be reused.
#4. The passing gear cable connection on the carburetor can be reused, if you have the original
carburetor.
#5. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor you need a carburetor adapter.
Our #29. 700R4, adapter for a Holley or Edelbrock carburetors to install the throttle valve cable
correctly. Usually this part will correct a hard light throttle 1-2 shift. With this kit getting the correct

geometry is easy. If you have a 700R4 transmission and one of these two carburetors you need this
part.
#6. You will need a new 700R4 throttle valve cable and dip stick.
#7. The shift linkage can be reused. D will be OD, 2 will be D and 2nd and 1st will be to the left and
right of the 1.
#8. If you have a 350 transmission now with a nine inch tail the drive shaft will not need to be cut.
#9. The drive shaft yoke is the same on both transmissions.
#10. The 350 vacuum line will need to be removed. The 700R4 transmission doesn't need vacuum.
#11. The cooling line positions stay the same. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return
line on a 700R4 transmission.
#12. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission
pan. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984's with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or the
transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
#13. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission

on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. Our #15.

Swap a 400 transmission with a four inch tail to a 700R4 transmission:

#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut and a smaller yoke installed.
#2. The cross member can be used in the same location, if you use a special 700R4 tail housing.
Our #49. 700R4 tail housing with transmission mount (7 3/8 inches long). This will move the mount
to the rear 5 1/2 inches. This moves the rear transmission mount to the same position as a 400
(short-style) transmission. This extension housing can eliminate transmission cross member
modifications when replacing a 400 transmission with a 700R4 assembly.
These are almost impossible to find.
#3. Will need a throttle valve cable bracket on the motor.
Our #8X. Universal Throttle Valve Cable Bracket.

#4. You will need a way to connect the throttle valve cable to the carburetor. If you have a Holley or
Edelbrock carburetor use #29 above.
#5. You will need a new 700R4 throttle valve cable and dip stick.
#6. The shift linkage can be reused. D will be OD, 2 will be D and 2nd and 1st will be to the left and
right of the 1.
#7. The 400 vacuum line will need to be removed. The 700R4 transmission doesn't need vacuum.
#8. The cooling line positions stay the same. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return line
on a 700R4 transmission.
#9. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission on an

Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. Our #15.
#10. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install
a lock-up kit in the transmission pan. On 1982, 1983 and early
1984's with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or
the transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
Swap a 200-4R transmission to a 700R4 transmission:

#1. The drive shaft will need to be cut three inches.
#2. The cross member can be used in the same location, if you use a special 700R4 tail housing.
See #49 above.
#3. The throttle valve cable and motor bracket can be reused.
#4. The throttle valve cable connection on the carburetor can be reused, if you have the original
carburetor.
#5. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor you need a carburetor adapter. See #29 above.
#6. You will need a new dip stick.
#7. The shift linkage is the same on both transmissions.
#8. The drive shaft yoke is the same on both transmissions.
#9. The cooling line positions on the transmission will need to be swapped, because the return line

on a 200-4R is on the bottom and the 700R4 is on the top. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the
top return line on a 700R4 transmission.
#10. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission
pan. On 1982, 1983 and early 1984's with a 27 spline input shaft you must install a lock-up kit or the
transmission may burn up. Our part #12.
#11. This is an adapter plate to install the 700R4 transmission

on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. Our #15.
#56. Adapter to install a Chevy 700R4 transmission on a

Ford Small Block motor. Comes with the flywheel,
adapter plate, flywheel adapter, dust cover and bolts.
We're an Advance Adapters Dealer. See the AOD page
for more details.

Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA)

Now You Have the Solution to Your Speedometer
Problems.....
For 700R4's with electronic speedometers.
#69. Any change in a vehicle's tire size or rear axle ratio will cause the speedometer reading to be
inaccurate. The Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA) is designed to correct this problem. With the ERA,
you simply hook up four wires, set the DIP switches according to the calibration table included
with your order, and you are ready to go.
What does the Electronic Ratio Adapter do?

The automotive industry has a great variety of part sizes, types, shapes and descriptions, but
regardless of make, model or year, a few things are standard. One of those standards has been the
number of revolutions a speedometer cable will make for each mile travelled. Nowadays,
electronic pulses have replaced the rotating cable, but the same principle applies. The Pulse Ratio
(the number of pulses per mile travelled) remains the same, regardless of speed, since the same
distance is travelled and the same number of pulses have occurred each mile no matter what the
speed was during that mile.
However, this Pulse Ratio can be made to vary from the true when modifications are made which
change the number of electronic pulses per mile on a particular vehicle. This is most commonly
caused by changing the tire size (increasing the outside diameter of the tires will cause the tire to
travel further before making a complete revolution), but other modifications could have the same
result. When the Pulse Ratio is thrown off, the speedometer/odometer will be inaccurate and
corrections must be made.
This relative difference between true speed and the speed indicated on the speedometer is called
the Variance Ratio, and it is corrected using the Electronic Ratio Adapter.
GM Ratio Adapter
#54RA. This GM ratio adapter will slow your speedometer
cable down 26.7%. Made for low rear end ratios with short
tires.
Important 700R4 Transmission Information

Thin red, blue or brown clutches and thin steels in the 700R4 3-4 clutch pack will not hold up in a
performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmission. The reason being the thin clutches burn up and the
thin steel plates warp up from the extreme heat. The thin steel plates will not dissipate the heat fast
enough. The problem is a combination of thin and narrow design. Thin red clutches work well in all
transmissions, but not in the 700R4 transmission 3-4 clutch pack. For this reason we only use the
more expensive Raybestos Blue Plate Special full thickness clutches and steels in our level 3 and
4, 700 Raptor transmission 3-4 clutch packs.
Wide bands will not work in a performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmission unless used with a
new reverse drum because they burn on the two outer edges. For this reason we only use
Raybestos Pro Series black Kevlar bands on our level 2, 3 and 4, 700 Raptor transmissions. Some
have machined the drum in an effort to give the wide band a flat surface to ride on. This only
weakens the drum and makes it cup worse the next time.

We use OEM (new) 5 pinion 700R4 rear planet gears that cost us five times as much as the weak off
brand 5 pinion rear planet gears. What's the reason we do this, you say. The off brand planet gears
are made of weak steel and snap like twigs. These gears are made of powdered metal, which GM
claims allows for a higher overall strength. After market 5 pinion planet gears are not as strong as
OEM 4 pinion planet gears. We use two new OEM 5 pinion planet gears in our top of the line level 4,
700 Mega Raptor transmissions. If you didn't pay over $250.00 for your 5 pinion rear planet gear it's
not the real OEM 5 pinion planet gear.
Conclusion: Don't buy a 700R4 / 4L60E transmission with any of the above parts that have
been proven not to work over time. If the above parts wont work for us how could they possibly
work for you? The above parts may work in light duty use with a stock motor. You want the good
parts that have been proven to last.
We are a Torque Drive distributor, these are the patented 700R4 hardened input shafts, input
drums and reaction shells. We install the Torque Drive package in all of our level 4, 700 Mega
Raptor transmissions and as an upgrade for $187.00 in our levels 1, 2 and 3, 700 Raptor
transmissions. If you are a transmission builder you can buy from us at a discounted price, the
more you buy the better the price.
You be the judge. We sell the total package, not something that will cost more in the long run or
cost more after you buy everything you need one part at a time. We have been building
performance / heavy duty 700R4 transmissions for 13 years and have tried and tested every
performance 700R4 part and combination of parts that there ever was. We have shipped these
transmissions all over the world. We know what works and what doesn't. I've been in the
transmission business sense 1958 and the people in this company have a combined transmission
experience of 160 years.
Some have made things appear hard to do, such as cooling lines and throttle valve cable
adjustments in an effort to sell you their expensive package to do these things. Wake up! It's even
been reported to us that several 700R4 performance transmission companies are making
counterfeit Torque Drive input drums, billet 40% oversize overdrive servos and other parts. These
700R4 counterfeit parts are inferior to the real patented parts and there are several law suits
pending at this time.
In an effort to make the price appear low such things as torque converters, core charges, freight
fees, throttle valve cable, dip stick and tube, coolers, deep pans, T-shirts and others are usually an
extra charge. Ask yourself this question. Why pay extra for everything when the transmission
doesn't even have the correct combination of parts that work together in the first place? We only
use a Corvette intermediate servo in our stock 700R4 transmissions. The performance intermediate
servo we use in all of our level 2, 3 and 4, 700 Raptor transmissions cost us 6 times as much as a
Corvette servo. We use a 50% oversize overdrive servo in all of our level 2, 3 and 4, 700 Raptor
transmissions that cost 2 times as much as a 30% oversize overdrive servo. Get your moneys
worth, you want the good parts.
When comparing transmission prices, know what you're actually getting. There's even a new
performance 700R4 transmission company out there that has a chart comparing the price of our
level 4 transmission to their transmission that might be equal to our level 1 or 2 transmission on a
good day. Oh, and they forgot to add the core charge to their price on the chart. This is the old
apples and oranges trick. This same company claims to have been building automatic

transmission for 75 years when automatic transmissions where only invented a little over 60 years
ago. It's right there on their website, check it out. This must be some kind of a type-o, because it
says something else on the other pages. They claim to scare the competition, it's you the buyer
that should be scared about these low ball tactics without the good parts. Another California
performance 700R4 transmission company is in bankrupt court at this time for making and selling
counterfeit parts.
700R4 Price Chart

Level 1 - "Stock Plus" Mega
700R4 Transmissions Level 2 - 700 Raptor Junior Level 4 - 700 Mega Raptor
Valve and Corvette Servo Level 3 - 700 Raptor
Torque Converter Stock #1 #2 No - You Pick
Throttle Valve Cable No No Yes Yes
Dip Stick and Tube No No Yes Yes
Free Shirt No No Yes Yes
Core Charge Included Included Included Included
Servos Corvette Oversize 35% & 50% Oversize 35% & 50% Oversize 35% & 50%
Pressure Valve .500" .500" .500" .500"
Band Stock Raybestos Kevlar Raybestos Kevlar Raybestos Kevlar
3 - 4 Clutch Raybestos Blue 3 - 4 Clutch Raybestos Blue
Clutches Borg Warner Brown Borg Warner Brown
Plate Plate
Free Cooler or Deep Stock
No Choice of One Choice of One Choice of One
Pan
Free Freight No Up to $110.00 Up to $110.00 Up to $110.00
1200, 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000,
Stall Speeds 1600, 1800, 2000 1700, 2000, 2500 You Pick
2300, 2600, 2800
Speedometer Gears Extra Extra Extra Extra
Torque Drive Package,
Recommended for over 450 No Add $187.00 Add $187.00 Yes
Torque.
Torque Master Kit No No No Yes
5 Pinion Planet Gears No No No Yes
Oversize Lo/Rev Boost Valve No Yes Yes Yes
13 Vane Pump No No Yes Yes
Beast Reaction Shell No No Yes Torque Drive Shell
#38 Pump Slide Spring No No Yes Yes
#41 Servo Valve No No Yes Yes
29 Element Forward Sprag No No Yes Yes
Performance 1-2
No No Yes Yes
Accumulator Spring
#19B Extra Wide Sun Gear
No No Yes Yes
Bushing
4th Gear Lock-Up Only Stock Wiring Yes Yes Yes
Better than stock with the
Tow up to 4000 pounds in Tow up to 6000 pounds in
Comments Mega Valve and Corvette Best of Everything
overdrive. overdrive.
servo.
2WD Price $980.00 $1384.00 $1695.00 $2169.00, plus converter
4WD Price $1030.00 $1434.00 $1745.00 $2219.00, plus converter
Quantity Discount Buy two level 3 or 4 transmissions and converters at the same time and receive $50.00 off on each.
Five Pinion Planet Gears, Torque Drive Package, Torque Master Package, Cast Aluminum Pans, Deep Chrome Pan,
Powder Coating, 4WD Case, Tail Housing with Mount, Poly Mount, Speedometer Gears, MegaRaptor, Bionic
Upgrades MegaRaptor, #2X or #5X Converter, Drain Plug, Beast Reaction Shell, LS1 type Bolt Pattern Bell housing, Wide Band,
Full manual shift valve body add $207.00, Hardened Output Shaft, Pinless Accumulator Pistons. You can add or
subtract from any level transmission.
Air Freight after $110.00 discount on performance / heavy duty transmission and torque converter. Anchorage Alaska
Freight Deal $240.00, Fairbanks Alaska $315.00, Honolulu Hawaii $165.00 to $240.00, Germany to large Airport - $65.00 to $240.00,
Guam Japan to Airport $250.00.
The price doesn't include C4 Corvette tail housings. The tail housing will be left off if you are going to use your old
Notes
speedometer parts. Speedometer parts are extra.

Transmission ratings are for non-supercharged systems using pump gasoline. Superchargers, Nitrous, 4WD, Oversize Tires and Weight will lower
these ratings.
Transmission Horse Power Rating Torque Rating Notes
700 Mega Raptor 700 700 Best of Everything
Add torque converter and Torque
700 Raptor 600 450 / 600 with Torque Drive package
Drive upgrades if needed.
Add torque converter and Torque
700 Raptor Junior 500 400 / 500 with Torque Drive package
Drive upgrades if needed.
Add torque converter upgrade if
Stock +, 700R4 350 300
needed.
PATC - Speed Shop, Click Here
Testimonials Add to Favorites
Performance Automotive and Transmission Center

Order Now Toll Free
Transmission Order Line 1-888-8771008
Transmission Parts Order Line 1-888-2012066
Back to Transmission Price List, Click Here

@ TH700-R4 - EZ Snap Transmission Tool
SNAP RING INSTALLATION TOOL
TH 700-R4
Item Code = e0ez
Are you TIRED of fumbling for 20 MINUTES with snap-ring pliers trying to install the low/reverse snap ring in
THM 700-R4 transmissions??? If so, then you NEED the EZ-Snap 700!!!
Snap-ring pliers are NOT needed! Just place snap ring on EZ Snap 700, place tool and return springs in case,
compress EZ-Snap 700, and in LESS than 30 SECONDS you are DONE!!! What could be simpler???
The EZ-Snap 700 is very similar in looks and operation to the EZ-Snap 350.
http://mmerlinn.tripod.com/pics/e0ez/e0ezlist.htm (1 of 10) [4/11/2004 12:39:48 AM]









Contact us
c015/010-w069-r025+1h+2s

Transmission Identification
The links below provide info for a 700/4L60 and a location of a reliable year of
manufacture of the tranz.
700R4/ 4L60 I D info!
Trans case measurements
700R4 problem areas
Valvebody bolt warning
700R4 electronic to cable speedo info.
Sumner's 700/4L60 Tech Info page
Lockup wiring
some tips
Driveshaft warning
Filter warning
Pump stuff
Send your questions to Me.
To: Crosley's Page
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/4l80e.htm [4/11/2004 11:58:17 PM]

ID a 700r4 transmission
This is basic information for the DIY type person.
First, let me make sure you understand that the 700/4L60 transmissions are
METRIC
units!
The threads and threaded holes are all metric in this transmission.
Pan bolts are 8mm x 1.25
Shift linkage lever & Converter to flywheel are 10mm x 1.5
Valve body, TV cable & speedo are 6mm x 1.0
Trans mount & tail housing holes are 10mm x 1.5
American (US) threads are "not close" like some people think. Use the correct nuts &
bolts! When you buy a tranz from a rebuilder or wrecking yard ask for all the needed
bolts.
Here are some pics of a 700r4/4L60 transmission to help you folks identify this trans
when out looking for a unit to buy.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/700id.htm (1 of 6) [4/12/2004 12:00:16 AM]

This is the passenger side of the trans main case.
Notice the casting line that is shaped like a "rainbow". It flows through the upper cooling
line fitting. This is a good indication that you have a 700/4L60 trans that is new enough
to have the good parts in it.
Here is a 1988 700 case. Notice the pressure taps with plugs in them. These plugs help

ID the trans as earlier than 1989. I have been "told" that the removal of these pressure
taps was a "running" change which means that some 1989 cases may have the taps.
Notice the "lack" of pressure taps on this case. This is a 1989 case.
Please notice the flat area near the rear of the pan rail.

This close up view shows the small flat pad area on the right rear of the pan rail area.
Stamped in this area is a row of numbers and letters. The "first" number is a very
reliable number of the year of manufacture. 1982 was the first year of a 700, but the
number "9" was used for some reason. After that GM used matching numbers for the
year of manufacture. A "3" would be a 1983 unit , etc.
There are more numbers and letters stamped into this area after the first number that I
will not explain here since it is not necessary to find the year of the trans.
Now it gets a little difficult. In 1989 GM removed the pressure taps from the passenger
side of the trans. So a "0" for the first number on the pad area with no pressure taps on
the pass side indicates a 1990 unit, not a 1980 unit.
If the 700 you are looking at has a pad area that has been ground smooth, it may be from
the unit being a factory rebuilt unit at one time. A tag is usually attatched to the trans
case by the authorized rebuilder. This tag may or may not contain correct year info.
Sometimes I have seen a year of rebuild ( ie:1989) but the case is an earlier year. This is
something you find out when the pan is removed!

This picture shows a 1999 4l60E tranny. Notice that the case is 3 pieces. The bell
housing unbolts too!
About 2 inches behind the ROUND 2 - 4 servo is the connector for the PCM.
The links below provide additional info on the 700/4L60 trans.
700R4 problem areas

Lockup wiring
some tips
Driveshaft warning
Filter warning
Pump stuff
Send your questions to Tony.
Tranz page
Crosley's Home Page

Exterior measuremnets of 4L80E & 700/4L60 trans
4L80E exterior specs
Here are the various measurements of a 700R4.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/transize.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:00:36 AM]

700R4/ 4L60 I D info!
700R4 problem areas

Lockup wiring
some tips
Filter warning
Drive shaft warning
Main tranny page
Crosley's home page

700r4/4L60 problems
700r4/4L60 problem areas
This is a drive shell from a 700r4. Notice that the right unit is now two pieces!
The area to watch is around the splines, check for cracks!
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/drvshell.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:00:53 AM]

700r4/4L60 problems
Here is the input drum of a 700R4. Lots of power will twist the aluminum drum splines or
break this drum in the spline area around the steel input shaft. The notches that you see
on the out side of this drum are not the ones that break. The spline area at the right end
of this broken drum often split,twist or the drum breaks there.
700R4 problem areas

700r4/4L60 problems
Lockup wiring
filter warning
Email me!
OR
Tranz page

http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/shrtbolt.htm
Pay Attention here!
This is a picture of the aux valve body at the rear area of the
transmission with the pan removed from the case.
The gold bolt(next to the tube)in the picture is shorter than the other
long bolts in the valve body of the 700/4L60 transmission. Early
trannys have a bolt with yellow paint on the head that wears off!
Check the bolt length!
Installing a regular long valve body bolt here will usually strip the
threads out of the case.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/shrtbolt.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:01:02 AM]

700R4/ 4L60 I D info!
700R4 problem areas
Lockup wiring
some tips
filter warning

E-mail
Transmission home page

700R4 speedo info.
Speedo and output shaft Info
Early T-700's came with regular cable driven speedo's. Some where in the 80's GM
Started changing to an electronic speedo, they did not change all applications at the
same time. Depending on the vehicle that your 700/4L60 came from, it could have
electronic or cable speedo. This will show you how to convert it back to a cable driven
speedo if that is needed.
Here is a "signal generator" disc on an output shaft of a 700R4. This is used for an
electronic speedo. The sleeve behind it is for sealing up the drive shaft yoke. Some
yokes have breather holes in the end near the u-joint.
You can remove this disc(pull it off), under it will most likely be 2 holes. Install a
standard retaining clip and plastic speedo drive gear for a 700R4 in the "front hole",
unless you are working on a Corvette trans. The rear hole seen slightly covered by the
disc and is used with corvette tail housings. Installing a standard speedo bullet and
gear into the tail housing will complete the conversion from electronic speedo to cable
speedo.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/700spd.htm (1 of 5) [4/12/2004 12:01:27 AM]

700R4 speedo info.
Here is a picture of the needed parts to refit an electronic speedo to a cable type. The
clip fits into the mentioned hole on the output shaft and holds the drive gear on. The
speedo "bullet and gear" replace the electronic pick-up. The speedo bullet has numbers
on it to tell you what tooth count of gears it is set to handle. The wrong tooth count and
the gears will tear themselves up or not work at all!
Here are a few GM part numbers for the "driven" speedo gears.
9774413 34 Lt Green
9780628 35 Orange
1359270 36 White
1359271 37 Red
1359272 38 Blue
1359273 39 Brown
1362048 40 Black
1362195 41 Yellow
1362049 42 Green
1362196 43 Purple
9780470 44 Dk Gray
9775187 45 Lt Blue

700R4 speedo info.
Here is a signal pick-up coil for the electronic speedo that you are converting.
Here is a picture of an early gear driven electronic speedo bullet for the 700R4. To
replace this, all you need are the speedo bullet and gears to convert to cable.

700R4 speedo info.
This picture shows the different speed-O housings. On the left is a T-400, middle is T-
700/4L60, last is an early BOP T-350. BOP means Buick,Olds ,Pontiac.
Notice the O-ring "groove" location on the BOP and 700 units. The T-350 BOP housing
may leak with the O-ring out further when used in a 700/4L60 unit.
The T-400 is smaller at 1.935 in diameter. The 700/4L60 unit is 2.080 in diameter
700R4 problem areas

700R4 speedo info.
Lockup wiring
some tips
Filter warning
Pump stuff
Email Tony.
Tranz page
Crosley's Home Page

Tech Information Index
......................................................................................Return to Sumner's Home Page
...................................................................Tech Information
Index
700R4 Transmission Info Page 1 -- Electrical & Cable
hookup and other ......................................................................info on
the 700R4
700R4 Transmission Info Page 2 -- Frequently ask questions

about the ......................................................................700R4
700R4 Transmission Info Page 3 -- Transmission Gear

Ratios Vs. Other ......................................................................GM
Transmissions.
700R4 Transmission Info Page 4 -- Valve Body Pictures
700R4 Transmission Info Page 5 -- Reference Books and

Transmission Dimensions
Metal Working Projects -- Using my Harbor Freight 12" X

36" Lathe
..........................................................................and Enco Gear Head

Mill/Drill
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/techinfo.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:01:30 AM]

Paint & Bodywork Information -- Basically how I do paint

and bodywork and tips.
Sheet Metal Press Brake -- How to build a cheap, but good

metal brake.
Setting up and Spraying with the Harbor Freight HVLP

Spray Gun
The Small Block Chevy Should Have Built -- Over 413 Hp

and Great Torque 440.
SBC Cylinder Head Information -- Chamber sizes, flow, etc.
One Wire Alternator---If you have a 1 wire alternator you might want to
read this.
How I chopped my GMC's Top -- From an article in Rod & Custom
How To Setup Your Driveline -- Power Train Set-Up Guide

By Greg Frick of Inland Empire Driveline Service Originally
published in StreetScene Magazine, December 1997 Reprinted
with permission of StreetScene magazine

......................................... Return to Sumner's Home Page

Easy 4th gear lockup
700/4L60 lockup information
This does not apply to all 700/4L60 transmissions, only those with this
wire setup. If you are not sure take the damn pan off and look. Use this
information at "your own risk!".
I will attempt to show you how to convert your wires on a 700 to lockup in
4th only and a connection to attach a switch to lockup the converter in 3rd
& 2nd too. This is basic information, if you cannot perform this swap
without troubles then you need to sell your car and tools.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/lockup1.htm (1 of 4) [4/12/2004 12:02:24 AM]

Here is the trans with the pan off. This is a common 1988 setup. The wiring
is similar through 1992, in 1993 the 4L60E was introduced.

Pay attention here.

In the lower mid left circle "A" is the pressure switch for 4th gear. In the
middle is the thermal sensor "B" that you will be removing. Remove the
connector and wire from the pressure switch "A". Cut the "A" wire off at
the double connector at the thermal sensor "B". From this same
connection there is a wire that runs over to the case connector that
passes through the case. Cut this wire off too.
Notice that the pressure switch "A" is silver in color. This means it's a
normally open type. If the switch you see is a dark color (dark grey almost
black) it means that the switch is a normally "closed" type and will not
work here. Using an OHM meter in the air check shown below where will
tell you what you have; NO or NC switch.
The silver NO switch is a GM part # is 8642473

If you are afraid to remove the thermal sensor, leave it alone. It will just sit
there and do nothing.
Want to air check that Pressure switch?
Page two
E-Mail
Tranz page

Taking your trans in for an Over Haul?
Taking your trans in for an over haul?
Here is a short list for you.
1. Remove the mount. The trans guy does not need it.
2. Remove the TV cable to avoid damage to it.
3. Drain the fluid from the trans. Stand it up on end in a pan.
4. Do not transport the trans with the converter in it. You can damge the pump if the converter is
not supported.
5. If you have some special brackets on the trans, remove them so they are not lost or damaged.
6. Leave the dip stick and filler tube at home.
7. Be honest when answering questions about your engine's power and car useage.
700R4 problem areas
Lockup wiring
Driveshaft warning
Filter warning
Pump stuff
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/tips.htm (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:02:25 AM]

Taking your trans in for an Over Haul?
Tranz page
Crosley's Home Page
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/tips.htm (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:02:25 AM]

Driveshaft carrier bearings
Pay attention here!
In the following photos I will show an over looked problem with

two(2) piece drive lines.
Look closely at this position of the bearing to the tube of the drive
shaft.
Now look at this photo. See where the bearing is moved "away" from
the tube? The bearing was moved by hand! This center support
bearing is a PRESS FIT and must not move freely!
When the front section of drive shaft can move forward towards the
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/drvline.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:02:42 AM]

tranny it will put pressure against the output shaft of the tranny and
cause damage to the thrust beraings and washers inside the tranny!
700R4/ 4L60 I D info!
700R4 problem areas

Lockup wiring
Driveshaft warning
Filter warning
Use your "back button" to return to the previous page.
OR Main Trans page
Send your questions to

Broken 4L60/700R4 Filter
Pay Attention!
Often a DIY or quicky lube person will service an automatic

transmission of the 700r4 family of transmissions. When they drop
the tranny pan and pull the filter out the filter sealing sleeve will stay
inide the pump. Does this person pull the sleeve out or remove the
new sleeve off of the new filter??
NO!
The results is the new filter is pushed lower with 2 sleeves and when
the pan is tightened up the tube can crack or deform resulting in the
pump sucking air.
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/filter.htm (1 of 4) [4/12/2004 12:02:59 AM]

Here is a photo of a 700/4L60 pump with 2 sleeves in it. Remove both

sleeves carefully to avoid damage to the aluminum.

Here is a pump with one sleeve inside of it. Carefully remove this to
avoid damage to the aluminum where the sleeve seals !
700R4/ 4L60 I D info!
700R4 problem areas

Lockup wiring
Driveshaft warning
Use your "back button" to return to the previous page.
Or Main Trans page
email me

700/4l60 pump information
Pump warnings for the DIY person!
This picture shows the direction to drive the bushing OUT of the pump to avoid damage
to the pump.
Drive the bushing out the back side of the pump!
The drum the pump half is sitting on is Broken! Do not use a good drum like this!
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/pump.htm (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:03:06 AM]

More to follow, I've been busy.
700R4 problem areas
Lockup wiring
some tips
Filter warning
Pump stuff
Driveshaft warning
Email Tony.
Tranz page

Crosley's Home Page

Crosley Automobile
Welcome to My World
Well you have found me. In the late 60's and into the 70's I did alot of Drag
and Street Racing! Since that time I have become interested in unusual
automobiles.
Choose Your Poison
Crosley Just
Family Work
Autos Stuff
My
Link's OldCars
Shop
61
Transmission 1948 61
Lancer
Info Simca Lancer
pg.2
The above links work!
Send your questions to
copyrighted--1998/2002
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/index.htm (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:03:08 AM]

Crosley Automobile
use the information on these pages at your own risk!!
http://www.highperformancecars.com/crosley/index.htm (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:03:08 AM]

Sumner's (1FATGMC) Home Page -- Street Rods, Teardrop Trailers, Bonneville Racing
Back to Purple Sage Trading Post Home Page
Welcome to Sumner's (1FATGMC) Home Page!

Hot Rods, Customs, Street Rods, Teardrop Trailers spoken here....
Powered by counter.bloke.com
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/sumnerindex.html (1 of 7) [4/12/2004 12:09:22 AM]

............................ ........................
Turning 100,000 miles near the Oklahoma-New Mexico State Line

in May of 2002 going to Missouri.
Hi. Hope you enjoy this site and the links to some of my favorite
sites. If you have time check back as I will try to keep adding
more. E-mail me if you have any questions or would like to tell me
about your truck or car. Want to get in touch with me? Email me!
sumner1@purplesagetradingpost.com
C ya, Sum
1FATGMC is my GMC plate and FATTEAR is my teardrop

plate. Honk and wave if you see me.
Links to Automotive & Teardrop

Sites
Over 338 Automotive and Teardrop Links (updated 05-04-
00) -- Links are arranged: Alphabetically by Name; Alphabetically
by Subject; by Rodder's Home Pages and by Teardrop Sites and
Teardrop Supplies

Links to different areas of my

site:
Construction Photos Of My New House....................
Under Construction Photos Of My '48 GMC .........
My Teardrop Trailer Pages ........
My High School '51 Ford Vicky & '61 Chevy Wagon

........
Tech Information:-
Metal Working Projects using my Mill/Drill

and Lathe
700R4 Transmission -- Installation Information,

Dimensions, Questions, etc.
Paint & Bodywork Information -- Basically how I

do paint and bodywork and tips.
Homemade Sheet Metal Brake -- I built this and

used it to build my teardrop.
Setting up and Spraying with Harbor Freight

HVLP Spray Gun #38308
SBC Cylinder Head Information -- Comparisons

of 20 SBC Heads. Chamber sizes, runner sizes, flow
numbers, etc. (updated 03-08-00)
One Wire Alternators -- Information. (updated 02-11-

00)
How I chopped my GMC's Top -- From an article in

Rod & Custom.

How To Setup Your Driveline -- Power Train Set-

Up Guide By Greg Frick of Inland Empire Driveline
Service
My Bonneville Lakester Construction Pictures -- Just

getting started.
Bonneville Pictures -- Pictures from 2000 and 2002
Car Show Pictures -- from various shows. ........
Rodder's First Rides--Pictures of Rodder's First Cars ........
My Great Uncle Len Zengel ........................

Shush's Home Page ....................................
My Ex-Wyoming House -- The first house I built in 1976.
The Rodder's Roundtable Webring
Check out Cybercrusin's

Rodder's Roundtable forum
This Rodder's Roundtable Web Ring site

is owned by 1.FAT.GMC.
[ Previous | Skip It | Next 5 | Random | List

all sites | Next ]
Want to join the ring? Get the info.

This GMC Truck Web Ring site is owned

by 1FATGMC.
Want to join the GMC Truck Web Ring?
{Skip Previous | Previous | List Sites | Random | Next | Skip Next | Next 5}
........................... To Purple Sage Trading Post Home Page
.................... Photo By: Francois Van den Eeden my Belgian buddy.

700R4 Info Page 1
Return to Tech Info Page..............................Return to Sumner's Home Page
.................................................... Next Page of 700R4 info.
.................................................... 700R4 Information

PLEASE READ THIS: I am not a transmission repairman. I use a 700R4 in my truck
and have accumulated the following information that might help you. A lot of problems with
this transmission after installation are due to improper TV cable hookup and adjustment. I
have that info here along with wiring information for the lockup converter. If are having
internal problems with the transmission I'm sorry, but I can't help, so please don't e-mail me
about those kind of problems. You need to talk to a repairman or you might trying posting
on Rodder's Roundtable Forum and post the question to Tony (board name is Crosley). He
works on these transmissions all the time and you can trust his answers.
It is very important to set up the Throttle Valve (T.V.) cable linkage properly to prevent
damage to your transmission. I can't stress how important the geometric relationship of the
hook up point on the carb for the T.V. cable is with this transmission (see following pages).
All of these distances and angles will determining where the cable is at close throttle and
WOT and all points in between. If they aren't right it is going to be hard to get the
transmission to shift right under all load combinations and you sooner or later you will be
fixing the transmission. This is a great transmission. Take the time to set it up properly and
it will last a long time.
I used the following info to set mine up on two different carbs and it has been working
correctly. One way to test the linkage setup is to take off in first with normal acceleration
and then when the trans does the 1-2 shift nail it and it should kick back down into 1st. I
adjusted mine until the point it wouldn't do the downshift and then back the other way with
the slider so that it would. I am not a transmission expert, builder or anything else so if in
doubt check with a good transmission person. If you can't read any of this stuff let me know
and I will help you. I will be adding to this page as I get more 700R4 stuff. I really like the
transmission and like to read about it. If you have anything you would like to post here
about the 700R4 e-mail me.
c ya, Sum
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html (1 of 6) [4/12/2004 12:10:12 AM]

700R4 Info Page 1
The following drawing shows the geometry for the cable connection to the carb. On one of
the Q-jets I used there was a mounting hole at the right radius from the throttle shaft center

700R4 Info Page 1
line, but not at the right angle. I cut almost all the way through the throttle shaft bell crank
above the mounting hole and bent the bell crank to the right angle and mig welded the gap
closed. I just put a wet rag next to the carb body and welded in a couple short bursts.
On another Q-Jet I cut the bell crank on the throttle shaft above an existing mounting hole
and below the center line of the shaft. I moved the mounting hole to the correct location and
welded a little filler piece behind the two parts to relocate the mounting hole in the proper
position so it was at the correct radius from the center line and at the correct angle.
It only took a few minutes to do this on both of the carbs and needs to be done to make sure
you don't ruin your transmission. Some mounting tabs are now also available for different
carbs if you don't feel like doing this yourself.

700R4 Info Page 1
This next image is from the TCI instructions, which is the kit
I used and I can recommend.
The following image might be a little hard to make out, but it shows how I wired
in a DPDT center off switch into the wires going to the transmission that control
the lock-up for the convertor. Using the three switch positions as follows: center
off position -- never locked; down position -- automatically locks going into 4th
and unlocks on the 4-3 shift; and up position -- manually locked in 2nd, 3rd or

700R4 Info Page 1
4th.
Note: Look further down the page for Peter Row's wiring diagram on using a
SPDT center off switch.
The LED in this wiring mess is in my instrument panel and lights anytime the
convertor is locked. Don't need to have it, just something I wanted. If you don't
use the engine (ported) vacuum switch then the wire from terminal D should be
grounded at all times. With the vacuum switch this line is grounded any time
there is vacuum above about 2 to 3 inches.
ADDITIONAL LED WIRING INFORMATION: One side of the LED goes to the
12 volt source for the lockup (wire going to the A terminal on the transmission).
That way if for some reason you don't have 12 volts going to the lockup it will be a
clue as the LED will not light in 4th. If it lights and then you still have no lockup
you know the problem is not no voltage to the lockup solenoid or no ground as if
either of these was missing the LED would not light. The other side of the LED
goes to the wire that goes to the B terminal on the transmission. This wire is
connected to ground only when the pressure switch closes going into 4th to lock
up the convertor or it will be grounded if you use a second manual switch
attached to the B terminal to manually lock the transmission. When it goes to
ground then the LED lights. Now all of this will only work if you have a kit similar

700R4 Info Page 1
to the TCI kit I'm using that has a pressure switch that goes into a port that sees
pressure only when in 4th and/or you are using a manually operated switch
connected to terminal B on one side and ground on the other side of the switch. I
used a radio shack LED and since it wasn't for 12 volts I run a resistor in series
with it to drop the voltage. I'll try and see if I can find the value of the resistor I
used. If you have an LED that works on 12 volts then you don't need the resistor.
Next is a wiring diagram by Peter Row that looks good to me. This is untested, but
I see no reason why it won't work. This circuit controls everything via the ground
side. Mine does this also, but cuts the 12 volts in the center off position to the
clutch. No real reason to cut the 12 volts, so you might want to give this a try. It
uses a SPDT center off switch. Thanks, Peter
.....................
............................................................................. Next Page of 700R4 info.

700R4 Info Page 2
Return to Tech Info Page..........................Return to Sumner's Home Page
....................................................Next Page of 700R4 info.
........................................................... -- Cable Suggestions --

The following is a post by Wayne Petty: >got a 1986 Chevy K-10 with a 350,
all kinds of little goodies on it. the tranny is the factory TH700-R4. My
manual explains how to adjust the cable, but it doesn't seem like its
describing too good cause I can't follow it at all. so, if anyone can help me
out, I would appreciate it. the cable is the stock one that came with the truck.
the trans is not vacuum modulated, controlled by the cable attached to carb.
the cable is hooked up, but due to a different carb, the resting position is
pulling on the cable, so at WOT, the cable stops the throttle from opening all
the way. terrible situation here. so, please HELP
go to your trans parts shop and get a 39" replacement throttle valve cable
from fits all 1800 527 2544 it has a long center cable with an adjustable screw
stop which will compensate for the difference in the tbi unit you took off and
the 4 bbl that you installed .(I know what you are doing) measure the
centerline of the throttle shaft to the center of the t/v stud (usually 30 mm)
and make sure that the replacement carb has the same dimension . if your
carb has a ball you will need to change it and install a walker # 72-1350 carb
lever stud available through you local carb shop .
as I recall the throttle cable needs to be maxed out at WOT for proper
adjustment if the 30 mm centerlines are not adhered to you may torch the
trans as the pressure curve will be wrong
best of luck
wayne fixer of most things broken

700R4 Info Page 2
-- Idea using no lockup kit --

The following is from Tony on RRT on 10-21-99: Actually all the parts you
need for the Lockup convertor to work is already in the 700 unit. A single
wire case connector from a T 400 and BOOM you are flying. I have never
seen the need for a brake light switch from a late model vehicle to cancel lock
up of the converter.
Also from Tony: Sumner, non computer shifted 700's have pressure switches
and a wiring harness in them that can be modified for 4th gear lock only.
And you can use the square OEM case connector too. The single wire case
connector looks cleaner and some ppl cannot figure out the proper hole to
put 12 volts into on the OEM 700 case connector.
Only need to hook up 12 volts to the case connector for the convertor lock
up. With my system you do not have separate switch for convertor control
like some kits provide.
I have found the best shift to 4th and convertor lock up "feel" comes from
using a 2 wire lock up (late style) solenoid. You wire 12 volts to the solenoid
and run the ground wire from the solenoid to the correct pressure port on
the valve body. The switch to use on the VB is a single wire terminal type,
normally open grounding type.
I say this offers the best "feel" since there is a few split seconds before the
pressure builds after the shift to 4th to close the switch and engage the
convertor.
A single wire solenoid can be used just as easily. Just wire the 12 volts
through the pressure switch to the self grounding solenoid. The switch must
be a normally open type, closes with pressure.

700R4 Info Page 2
Also no electric is needed for convertor l/up. Installing a 1/4" check ball (
same size as used in the 700) into the hole on the end of the solenoid will l/up
the convertor in 2, 3 and 4th. It down shifts very harshly though since the
convertor is locked. A 5/16" check ball is OK also.
I have found the brake light switch cancel feature un necessary for 90% of
cars. Also you speak of the convertor un locking on down hill coasting and
saving some gas as the rpm drops. What is happening inside the trans is a
one way sprag is "over running" and can over heat if you have a long coast.
The sprag is designed to over run, but not for a long period. At low rpm the
cooler/lube flow is reduced.
-- Another Idea using no lockup kit --

The following is an e-mail conversation from Jeff Fennema on 10-22-99: Saw
your 700 page. Thanks for collecting the info. You can do what the TCI kit is
doing for you cheaper by cannibalizing any GM vehicle with a lockup
converter. Just get the vacuum switch and the brake cutout, wire the same
'cept run the wire (12v.) from the vacuum through the brake switch before
heading down to the trans. TCI's diagram even looks like the GM switch. I
then replied: Jeff, Thanks for the info, except I got a question. The TCI kit
gives you a pressure switch which you use in the valve body (a port that only
has pressure in 4th), so the converter only locks up in 4th gear. Wiring it the
way you stated wouldn't the converter lock up in all gears except 1st and
maybe 2nd? and he replied: Indeed it would. Just as the factory designed the
trucks. I don't necessarily see any problem, as even in third, you'd be going
at a good clip when the vacuum switch allowed a lockup.

700R4 Info Page 2
Going from 'signal generator to speedo cable
Question from Darren on RRT (11-06-99)....I have a G20 van '85 year model
I bought used it has a turbo 350 trans in it and I bought a 700r4 trans to put
in it but the speedo sending unit has two wire plug and my van has a cable.
Can the sending unit be changed or does the tail shaft assembly have to be
changed?
Tony Says... The output shaft has a "signal generator " on it for electronic
speedos. It's a metal disc with thin square edged teeth on it. Pull it off and
there should be a hole in the out put shaft where a regular metal retaining
clip for a plastic speedo gear will install.
Tony has a lot more on this subject on his 700R4 pages ( converting to cable )
Also from Tony: Look here for a speedo cable inline signal generator for
ECM's.
.....................................................Next Page of 700R4 info.

700R4 Info Page 3
.................................................................................. Next Page of 700R4

info.
-- More Tech Info on the 700R4 --

Gear comparisons for 700R4 vs. other GM
Transmissions:
.............................1st.......2nd....3rd....4th
Power Glide.........1.76......1.0
TH350 .................2.52.....1.52....1.0
TH400.................2.48.....1.48....1.0
700-R4/4L60.......3.06.....1.63....1.0.....70
200-R4.................2.74.....1.57....1.0.....67
4L80E..................2.48.....1.48....1.0.....75
Note: Some Powerglides come with a 1.82 1st
Need More Info: This site has some great 700R4 help and
information along with areas for information on other
transmissions. transonline.com

700R4 Info Page 3
............................................... Next Page of 700R4 info.

700R4 Info Page 4
.................................................................. Next Page of 700R4 info.
....................................... -- More Tech Info on the 700R4 --
The following information is

from Tony of RRT. (thanks
Tony) -- In the photos of the 700r4
valve bodies with and without
switches: "A" is where the switch for
convertor lock up in 4th gear needs to
be installed. I recommend removal of
the other switches (if any) and 1/8th
inch pipe plugs installed.
In the photo with out switches :

"C" is a valve that should be
blocked in place. This requires
removal of the valve body from
the trans. Many DIY ppl will not
do this since gasket tear is
possible. It's easier to block the
valve during the rebuild process
of the trans.
A blocking pin about 1/8th diameter (welding rod), .890 long works well. Leave the
spring in place. This blocks the "line bias" valve and improves shift firmness above 1/2
throttle.

700R4 Info Page 4
Transmission Identification for 700R4 -- Tony's 700R4 pages
More Information from Tony: 700 trans have NO modulator, never

did.
lock up Solenoids can have 1 or 2 wires. 1 wire is self grounding, 2 wire is not. 2 wire is
later model (85 up, i think) and is what most ppl see now a daze.
Power is routed thru brake lite switch first, that way the brake pedal over rides every
thing.
factory wiring harnesses in 700s have been many and varied! they became consistent in
700R4 Info Page 4
about 86 or 87 with some variations.
Your kit provides for l/up over ride as I remember. That is why they route the ground
back out the case connector "D" which is the same for the factory setup for many
years.
I do not believe your kit has a temp sensor in the harness like the factory does. Temp
sensor over rides lock up in cold climates. I am not familiar with the lock up kits since
I do not use them.
12 volts to "A" and ground to "D" should provide lock up on most late 700's .
Speedo gears are the same from 1981 till the 700 went to electronic speedo which was
not all models in the same year of start of electronic speedos.
The 700 pump is virtually the same from 1982 thru 1992 except for vane count, slider
springs (early 1 spring,late 85 & up 2 springs), and pump bushing bore with a
retaining edge. In later pumps the bushing must be installed from the inside of the
pump because GM left a machined lip to help prevent the bushing from walking out
the front. On early pumps you file some notches on the inside edge of the bushing bore
and "stake" the bushing in place while using red lock tight. Always use the 4L60E
bushing as it has a Teflon type
coating.
Installing dual springs for the slider is simple and cheap. Early pumps have 7 vanes,
later pumps have 10 vanes, with 1996( I think) and newer have 13 vanes. A 7 vane
pump has plenty of volume to operate the trans. Industry trans ppl have told me the
vane count increase was to quiet the operation of the pump, not really to increase
pump volume. That statement makes little sense to me, so take it any way you wish.
The second valve body on 700's is actually an accumulator for forward clutch pack
engagement. This softens the apply feel of the trans into drive. They also installed a
check ball into the case to soften reverse clutch pack engagement. I remove the reverse
ball and either limit the accumulator pistons movement in the second valve body or
install a stiffer spring in place of the stock spring.
Depending on price a later trans is preferred, but early ones can work just as well.

700R4 Info Page 4
A 700 from a 4.3 V6 usually is cheaper to buy and they have the same internal hard
parts, only fewer friction plate count, which is easily corrected........
The seal popping is a reason the drain hole must be enlarged on the early pump bodies.....ALSO enlarge the
hole in the stator/pump cover body too! Many ppl over look this hole for the drain back.
Keith, also make sure your shop instals a 4L60E bushing, they are coated and a late type seal has 2 lip seals (oil
& dust). Make sure they file notches and stake the bushing with loctite! Loctite the seal and use the seal
retaining collar to.
I had a staked bushing move last year on a truck that the guy was towing sand buggies in 3rd gear , not locked
up. The bushing will move out and touch the seal , you then have a serious leak! The customer got the trans very
hot! I changed lock up to 3rd gear foe him instead of 4th gear only.
The lube hole at the lock up valve should be at least .110 for better lube in lock up mode for the rear planet.
What ever the hole size is , opening it up 30% will double the oil flow! A fluid engineer told me this.
A competent shop will know the mods necessary to help this trans, if not I can help .....I hope , LOL
For Improper Shift Points ==== verify full TV pull at the trans. Or a guage on the pump pressure port will
show line rise as the cable is pulled even at idle. Your trans expert will have the tools to test this.
If the line rise is good, then put softer springs in the govenor. This should raise the shift points. If the shift
points are raised, but not enough, grind the weights off or install a vette govenor and try that. The gov springs
can be cut off a little too. I build 8-10 various transmissions a week and do this often
If that does not work, you need a stiffer spring in the 2-3 shift valve. Start with a spring 1 pound stiffer.......it
does not take much to change the shift point.
Also check the TV "up" and "down" valves in the valve body. if one or both is stuck that will cause it too.
Sometimes a bigger boost valve and spring will throw the calibrations of the valve body way off (if these were
installed)
Tony
And more from Tony.....============== there are several things to do for 2-3 shift improvement. First block
the line bias valve in place. This valve blows off main line pressure above 1/2 throttle. A steel pin 1/8 inch in
diameter about .890 long fits most of them and fits inside the OEM spring.
The shiming of the 2nd gear servo is important. That servo is also the accumulator for 3rd gear. THe bigger
TransGo kits come with a gold ring, about an 1/8 inch thick to shim the 2nd servo area with. This is a good shim
to use to shorten servo movement and shifts on the 700.

700R4 Info Page 4
there is a new band , about 3/8 inch wider than OEM style units. You must have the drum fairly surface flat,
check it with a straight edge. A lathe may be needed to trim the drum up a bit to flatten it out. The drum will
chatter in the lathe while machining unless you use a disc brake rotor strap to calm chatter effect. A rubber
bungy strap works too.
Always check band clearance, the output shaft should turn both ways. One direction is harder to turn than the
others. The hard turning direction is the band grabing the drum. If you need to use channel lock pliers to turn
the shaft that direction, yet it turns fairly easily with the pliers the clearance is OK.
The aluminum second gear servo has a large spring under the steel cover that the servo pin goes thru.
Removing this spring and cover, shimming up the pin as needed removes the 2-3 shift accumilation from the
system. Use a 093 vette servo, aftermaket # is 93-1.
The gear spacing on a 700 is something I have never liked. 3.06 first, 1.83 second gear. Thats a big jump in gear
ratio. That may not help drag times. We drag raced a shoe box nova in the early 80's with a 700 trans. 5.38
gears allowed short use of OD thru the traps.
Alto offers a 3-4 clutch kit with red frictions that works very well. Kolene steels help to reduce problems from
heat build up in the 3-4 clutch pack ( a commom problem).
Next Page of 700R4 info.

700R4 Info Page 4
-- More Tech Info on the 700R4 --
Reference Books (both these

books are worth having):
1. ATSG THM700R4 Techtran

Manual (305) 661-4161 -- A good
diagnostic tool and also shows
rebuild information.
2. Haynes Tech Book #10360 -- GM
Automatic Transmission Over Haul --
ISBN #1563921693 -- Tells how to
overhaul the 350/400 and the 700R4.
It has tons of pictures of the
disassembly and the reassemble.
Transmission Dimensions
700R4 Info Page 4
(try these sites):

1. TCI's Site -- Transmission
Dimension Page
............................................ Return to Tech

Info Page

Metal Working Projects Index
................................................................................................ Return to Sumner's Home

Page
.........................................Metal Working Projects

Index
I have recently (2003) bought a Harbor Freight 12" X 36"
metal lathe (Harbor Freight #33274) and an Enco Model 105-
1145 21" Swing Geared-Head Mill/Drill. Enco and Grizzly
both sell what appears to be the same lathe as the Harbor
Freight lathe and Harbor Freight and Grizzly also seem to
sell the same mill/drill as the Enco one I purchased. These
are Chinese products.
The following are metal working projects that I have done

using the above mill/drill and lathe. I'm just a beginner at
using these, but I thought maybe some of what I've done
might help someone else.
If you have any feedback or suggestions just e-mail me.
c ya, Sum
...................
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/metalworking/metalworking-index.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:10:42 AM]

......................................................( Feb. 2004 )
Page 1 ... Quill Mounted Dial Indicator holder for an Enco Mill or
Harbor Freight gear head mill.
Page 2 ... Collet Mounted Dial Indicator holder for an Enco Mill
or Harbor Freight gear head mill.
Page 3 ... Cut-off Tool Holder for Harbor Freight 33274 Lathe
(12" X 36")

Page 4 ... A Press to Remove Links from a Chain Saw Chain
Page 5 ... Boring Bar Holder for 4-Way Tool Post on Lathe

Paint & Bodywork Index
....................Return
to Sumner's Home Page .......................................
Return to Tech Info Index
....................................................Go to next Page -- Priming,

Blocking, etc.
- Bodywork &
....................
Painting Index -
I've put these pages on the site to help others who might
not have a lot of experience with body work and/or
painting. What I offer here is what I've learned from
others; books; and on my own. Remember there is
usually more than one way to do something and still
have it come out fine. I'm trying to show how a novice
might over a course of time repair and paint his specialty
car using common inexpensive equipment (relatively
inexpensive) in a home garage/shop. The following is
what has worked for me, but I'm always looking to
improve, so I'm open to suggestions. Sum
Bodywork & Painting Guide Pages
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/tech--body-paint-index.html (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:13:48 AM]

Paint & Bodywork Index
Page 1 -- Metal prep and Bondo

Appliccation
Page 2 -- Priming, Blocking, etc.
Painting and Bodywork Tips -- Equipment,

Safety, Bondo, etc.
Repairs on 1FATGMC -- How I repaired an

area with base/clear.
Harbor Freight HVLP Spray Gun -- Setting up

and Spraying Instructions
- Go to next Page -- Priming,

...........
Blocking, etc. -
.....................Return
to Sumner's Home Page .......................................
Return to Tech Info Index
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/tech--body-paint-index.html (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:13:48 AM]

Press Brake Page 1
...................................... Return to Sumner's Home Page ..
Mike's Press Brake Page 2

..............................................
................... Sheet Metal Brake Page 1

.......................
Press Brake -- I built this

brake out of steel I had left over from
other projects. So far I have been
using it to bend 20 gauge cold rolled
steel in widths up to 4 feet. I have bent
16 gauge, but I think this is the limit
with this design. The 16 gauge was 12
inches long. More than that and I
think you would have to use 2 or 3
jacks although Mike has bent long
pieces of 16 gauge with his with a
single jack. I did provide places for up
to 3 jacks, but with the 20 gauge I have
been using the one has been adequate.
On the plans below I traced actual bends of 20 and 16 gauge steel to give you an idea of the sharpness
of the bend. ......................
For a sharper bend use the option die

layout I have shown. Actually
different dies can be used and just
laid into the bottom angle. Also if you
made angles (dies) of different lengths
and laid them in the bottom angle in
such a way as to raise the steel to be
bent above the bottom angle you
could bend just partially across a
piece of steel. The part not to be bent
would just go straight through the
brake. This is hard to explain, but if I
do it (and I plan to) I'll get some more
pictures/drawings up to explain it.
Remember I used the steel I had
laying around the shop to build this
and you could substitute other pieces at various points in the design. Keep the pieces above the top
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/teardrop/sheetmetalbrake.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:14:07 AM]

Press Brake Page 1
die thin (the 2 pieces of 3/8X1 strap in the drawing) for a ways up above the top die so during a bend
you are not hitting the metal to be bent in this area. This is especially important if you are making
two bends close to one another. This brake has some limitations, but considering the price (a jack and
some steel) it's a deal I think. If you improve on it send me some pictures/drawings to post for
everyone. Also you can't bend past 90 degrees, but you can bend any angle less than 90. Also if you
bend to 90 it is not to hard to use a hammer to go past 90 as the crease in the metal is there.
See the next page for a similar brake that Mike (Outlaw on RRT) built (Mike has been bending 20
and 16 gauge with his). Mike's Press Brake
If you have any question about the brake or it's construction just e-mail me. Have fun bending, Sum.

Press Brake Page 1
Go to Mike's Press Brake Page 2

....................................

HVLP Spray Gun Setup
Return to Sumner's Home Page ....................................... Return to

Tech Info Index
..................................................................- HVLP Spray Gun -
Please note: The #38308 gun I have is no

longer sold by Harbor Freight. They have
replaced it with a similar gun that uses a
little more air and it's number is #43430. It
sprays as good as the #38308 gun, but I
haven't used it, but some others have and
you can go to the next page for feedback on
the new gun.
It seems to respond well to the setup
instructions I have below.
Here is some good feedback on the new
#43430 gun:
Feedback from Doug Cox on the
43430 gun
Pictures of the Semi Hood Mike
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun.html (1 of 5) [4/12/2004 12:14:08 AM]

Painted
The Harbor Freight HVLP gun #38308 and the newer

#43430 gun is a great gun to use for primers and will also
do an excellent job with base color coats and high build
clears.
It is a good gun for the part time painter as it puts on

enough paint to do a good job, but not as much as an
expensive production gun does that will get us novices in
trouble. This is not a gun a professional would use for
overall paint jobs, but I know a lot of pros use this gun
for panel repair and primers. So if you are a part time
painter who probably paints his rod in pieces and you
need a gun that doesn't consume a lot of air I can
recommend this gun. I spray with a 5 hp single stage
compressor. This is probably the bare minimum you can
get away with for an overall paint job (car in one piece).
For high build primers (mixed in highest build form) you

might want to order their 1.7 Tip Kit for the gun from
their service dept. (the gun comes with a 1.4 tip).
No, I don't work for Harbor Freight, I just like to pass

on a good thing when I know one and this is one case
where a low cost item has great performance. The one
bad thing about the gun is that the instructions are not
very good, so I have made up the following instructions

based on my experiences with the gun. Any feed back

you have on the gun or these instructions is welcome.
Sumner
Setting up and spraying with the Harbor

Freight HVLP gun #38308 and the 43430
Pressure Adjustment: Open your compressor regulator

up so there is plenty of air pressure in the line to the gun (I set
mine to about 90 psi). Next set the regulator on the gun handle to
50 psi (what I use for DP40 and K36) with the trigger pulled and
leave it set there. Close the valve at the bottom of the handle (on
the gun, not the regulator) and then with the trigger pulled, open
it to the point where the air volume starts to stay the same (just
listen to it) and leave it there (it should be pretty far open at this
point). I never mess with this after this unless I think it has been
changed.
Note: On my two year old gun they say the maximum pressure is
60 psi. On my new gun it says 40 psi. Instead of the 50 psi above
you might try 40 psi if your gun says 40 psi max.
Fan Adjustment: Next open the fluid volume control

about 3 turns for starters (at the back of the gun). Close the fan
control down (on the left side of the gun behind the nozzle) so
when you spray you only get small round circle. With the gun
about 6 to 8 inches from a test surface (I use the garage door or
better yet some sheet rock, or masking paper) move the gun across

the surface (about 6 to 8 inches from the surface) and pull the
trigger. As you are moving turn the fan control until you get the
desired fan shape/width (about 5-6 inches wide top to bottom oval
shape for overall painting) (remember if you are spraying up and
down on a surface you can change the nozzle at the front of the
gun 90 deg. so the fan is horizontal).
Fluid Control: Next after getting the fan the right size
continue spraying and adjust the fluid volume at the back of the
gun for the final adjustment to get the fluid right for the gun speed
(how fast you sweep it across the work). You want to be laying on
the paint at a pretty good volume, but not causing runs at a
normal gun sweep speed.
Changing the pressure to match spec sheets:

Now you're ready to paint and with 50 psi at the handle the gun is
spraying about 10 psi at the cap. If you want 5 psi at the cap put
25 at the handle regulator (8 psi = 40 psi, 7 psi= 35 psi, etc.). You
can't actually see the pressure at the cap which is what the spec
sheets are referring to. The gun is internally regulating the
pressure down based on the inlet pressure. Some expensive guns
have a gauge off the back of the handle that tells you the cap
pressure and then they also have a regulator and gauge at the
bottom of the handle like this gun that regulates the pressure into
the gun.
Painting: Look at what your painting and the way the paint is
going on the surface right behind the gun and adjust from there.
For instance if you want to spray some small areas/parts you can
turn the fan down to a small round size. You will also have to
greatly shut the fluid volume down at the back of the gun
(clockwise) at the same time to avoid runs. I usually turn the air

pressure at the regulator on the handle down to around 25 to 35

psi to do spot work like this.
Proper Pressure: Remember you need a high air pressure

(Set as the spec sheet calls for) so that you get proper atomization
and so you can turn the volume up. The higher pressure will
actually mean fewer runs since the atomization is better. This is
not so critical with the primers, but you really need it with the
sealer, base, and clear coats so you get good coverage without runs
and with little orange peel.
Note: I'm not a professional painter, but the above is what

works for me. If anyone else has anything they would like to add
to the above or comment on please e-mail me.
Click here for the 43430

........................................
Information page

Tech Info Index

Small Block Chevy Should Have Built
Return to Tech Info Page..............................Return to Sumner's Home Page
...................................................
...................
...................................................... 350 Chevy Should Have Built
This is a very interesting engine that Hot Rod built which I believe has a lot
of good ideas. I've priced it out from the different suppliers and it looks to
me that it is going to cost between $4000 and $4500 to build not $2995 as
stated, but still not bad for what you get. I checked with AFR and they said
Hot Rod had the heads laying around from a project (I believe a 305) they
never got to and that AFR would recommend larger valves in the same
heads, which should even give a better engine. A number of these engines
have been build and it sounds like the owners are happy, but I've never
found one to talk to. The cam used is Comp Cams 12-420-8 (270HR -- Hyd
Roller with 215/215 at .050 and .500/.500 lift).
Be sure and check out the very wide torque range of this engine (over 400
from from 2800 to 5200). What a street engine!
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/350%20chevy%20engine.html (1 of 7) [4/12/2004 12:15:29 AM]



.....................



..................................................................

SBC Cylinder Head Info

Tech Info Index
- SBC Cylinder Head Info -

I've compiled the following information on SBC
Cylinder heads to help compare them. For the flow
remember bigger is not always best. Some of the heads
with large flows and big runners are not going to be good
street heads, since they will have slow flow through the
runners at street rpm. Also if you have a cam with less
than .500 inches of lift then the flows at .500 of an inch
and above mean nothing to you. A lot of people
recommend looking at the flows around .400 for a street
motor as that is the lift you will see for a good part of the
cam duration.
The flow figures below are from a couple different

sources, so we are not necessarily comparing apples to
apples, but they should be close.
A special thanks to Paul Shufelt for helping me with

some of the numbers below. Finally I need help filling in
some of the blank spaces in the charts. If you have any of
this missing info or some of this is wrong please e-mail
me. Thanks, Sum
AFR 180cc -- AFR 190cc -- AFR Race 210cc
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/heads1.html (1 of 7) [4/12/2004 12:15:33 AM]

Brodix 8 Pro -- Brodix Track 1
Canfield Aluminum
Dart Conquest 200 -- Dart Iron Eagle
Edelbrock RPM -- Edelbrock 23 deg -- Edelbrock Victor

Jr.
Edelbrock E-Tec 170 -- Edelbrock E-Tec 200 --

Edelbrock Performer
GM Fast Burn -- GM Vortec 855 -- GM L98 Vette -- GM

LT4
GM LS1 -- GM 882 -- GM 441 -- GM 462 -- GM LT1 372
Holley System Max
Pro Top Line (Lightning) 180's -- Pro Top Line

(Lightning) 200's -- 200 Aluminum
Trick Flow 23 Deg. -- Trick Flow Twisted
World SR Torquers -- World Sportsman
AFR Street AFR Street AFR Race

Manufacturer & Edelbrock
180cc 190cc 210cc Edelbrock
RPM
Head Type .
Aluminum Aluminum Aluminum 23 deg
Valve Sizes I/E .
2.02/1.60 2.02/1.60 2.08/1.60

Chamber Size 74cc & 68cc 74cc & 68cc 76cc 64cc & 70cc 71cc
Intake Runner 180cc 190cc & 195cc 210cc 170cc 212cc
Exhaust Runner 64cc 64cc 80cc 60cc 60cc
Flow Int/Exh @
*10 *10 *10 *4 *4
See footnotes:
0.100 ?/? ?/? 72/61 78/69
0.200 129/108 129/108 135/112 134/105 140/116
0.300 195/156 195/156 197/145 188/140 200/158
0.400 240/178 240/178 245/185 224/160 242/195
0.500 255/190 260/190 273/205 233/172 270/213
0.600 260/194 262/194 282/215 233/179 275/224
0.700 285/220
Edelbrock Edelbrock
Manufacturer & E-Tec 170 E-Tec 200
Edelbrock Edelbrock
Head Type Victor Jr. Performer
Aluminum Aluminum
Valve Sizes
1.94/1.50 2.02/1.60
Chamber Size 70cc 64cc 64cc 70cc
Intake Runner 215cc 170cc 200cc 170cc
Exhaust Runner 60cc 70cc 78cc 60cc
Flow Int/Exh @
*1 *9 *9 *2
See Footnotes:
0.100 67/64 64/54 67/57 66/55
0.200 123/111 130/104 122/110 135/103
0.300 173/145 186/140 175/153 186/135
0.400 219/180 220/169 223/182 215/151
0.500 255/198 232/183 252/196 220/165
0.600 275/206 238/190 259/204 222/169
0.700 284/? 265/207

World SR
Manufacturer & Canfield
Torquers Dart Conquest Dart Iron
World
Head Type 200 Eagle
Sportsman Iron
Valve Size Aluminum
2.02/1.60
Chamber Size 64 & 72cc 67 & 76cc 64 & 72cc
Intake Runner 200cc 170cc 180 to 230cc
Exhaust Runner
Flow Int/Exh @
*1 *3 and *6 *1 *1 *1
See Footnotes:
0.100 67/55
0.200 132/102 128/104 126/105 129/112 141/107
0.300 187/131 179/140 171/133 182/139 201/143
0.400 225/150 205/156 217/162 226/166 247/175
0.500 240/164 221/166 252/179 258/178 258/190
0.600 243/162 225/170 274/188 255/186 257/200
0.700 268/? ?/187
Manufacturer & Trick Flow Trick Flow

Holley
Brodix 23 Deg. Twisted
Head Type Brodix 8 Pro System Max
Track 1
Valve Size Aluminum Aluminum
Chamber Size 69cc 64cc 67
Intake Runner 215cc 190
Exhaust Runner 82
Flow Int/Exh @
*1 *1 *1 *8 *1
See Footnotes:
0.100 60/50 51/58
0.200 125/94 130/103 130/92 136/98 127/116
0.300 177/123 178/142 184/122 191/136 186/155

0.400 220/144 223166 222/148 230/163 227/183

0.500 254/164 256175 242/172 253/177 254/204
0.600 226/170 259/183 252/187 254/190 265/213
0.700
Manufacturer & GM Vortec 855 GM L98

GM LS1
Vette
GM Fast Burn GM LT4
Head Type Cast Iron
Valve Size 2.00/1.55

194.150 194.150 ?/?
Chamber Size 62cc 64cc 58cc ? 65cc
Intake Runner 210cc 170cc 204cc
Exhaust Runner 78cc
Flow Int/Exh @
*2 *6 and *7 *3 *1 *6
See Footnotes:
0.100 62/55 70/49 55/52 83/62
0.200 136/104 139/105 120/104 147/114 134/104
0.300 187/133 190/137 160/133 197/141 189/136
0.400 232/158 227/151 186/151 230/167 222/165
0.500 266/180 239/160 196/170 250/180 240/179
0.600 275/193 229/162 243/185 252/185
0.700
Manufacturer & GM 441 GM 462 GM

GM 882 LT1 372
Head Type Cast-Iron Cast-Iron
Cast-Iron
Valve Size 1.94/1.50 1.94/1.50 1.94/1.50
Chamber Size 76cc 76cc 62cc 56cc
Intake Runner 151cc 155cc 156cc 170cc
Exhaust Runner

Flow Int/Exh @ 28
in. *5 *6 *6 *6
See Footnotes:
0.100 70/58 55/45 50/54 72/53
0.200 125/108 110/83 119/91 129/101
0.300 175/135 160/118 167/121 180/136
0.400 204/141 194/133 198/134 213/155
0.500 205/142 201/146 212/139 214/165
0.600 206/142 203/148 218/142 215/171
0.700
Pro Top Line
Pro Lightning Pro Top Line Pro Top Line
Manufacturer & 180 Pro Lightning Pro Lightning
200 200
Head Type Iron Heads
(same Iron Heads Alum. Heads
Valve Size casting as
Alum.) 2.055/1.60 2.055/1.60
2.02/1.60
Chamber Size 50cc/64cc/72cc 50cc/64cc/72cc 50cc/64cc/72cc
Intake Runner 180cc 200cc 200cc
Exhaust Runner
Flow Int/Exh @ 28
in. *12 ------- *13 *13 *13
See Footnotes:
0.100 58/49 -----74/57 69/57 71/57
113/93 --
0.200 134/101 146/101
151/101
163/125 -
0.300 192/157 204/157
207/157
203/151 -
0.400 236/177 250/177
243/177
231/170 -
0.500 261/186 260/186
258/186

247/177 -
0.600 269/190 269/190
263/190
247/182 -
0.700 278/195 276/195
270/194
Footnotes:
*1 -- These flow numbers come from Chevy High Performance Magazine Data.
*2 -- These flow numbers come from Pace GM Parts.
*3 -- These flow numbers come from misc. sources.
*4 -- These flow numbers come from Edelbrock
*5 -- These flow numbers come from Car Craft - Jan 2001
*6 -- From Paul Shufelt
*7 -- From Chevy High Performance Feb. 2001
*8 -- From Trick Flow (Flow numbers)
*9 -- From Edelbrock's Site
*10 -- From Air Flow Research Site
*11 -- From Jim Scottt
*12 -- Chevy High Performance Feb. '04 -- Tested at Westech with SuperFlow 600
Flowbench @28-in H2O
*13 -- Pro Topline Ltd.'s Internet Site

Tech Info Index

1 Wire Alternator Tech Page

Tech Info Index
One Wire Alternator Info

Thanks to Wayne Petty for most of this info.
If you have a 1 wire alternator in you street rod, custom or daily
driver are you aware that parts for these are not stocked in most
parts houses? I found this out last year when mine quit in
Prescott, Arizona while I was on a trip and couldn't find the parts
I needed in a town with over 10 parts houses.
The 1 wire is basically a 3 wire GM alternator (Delco) with a self-

energizing voltage regulator. Herein lies the problem. Most parts
houses don't stock the self-energizing voltage regulator. I would
strongly recommend getting one and carrying it with you. They
only cost about $6-$8 and take up almost no space. If you have one
you can put it in a 3 wire alternator that you can buy almost
anywhere and convert it into a 1 wire or if yours goes bad in your
1 wire alternator you can replace it.
If you want to get the parts that will probably fix 90% of your
problems then have your parts house order the following parts if
they don't stock them.
For the following parts check: Transpo Electronics
the d10se 12 will convert a 7127 alternator to a one wire alternator

http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/onewire.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:15:34 AM]
you might also change out the lower parts... as these are better...
that what most rebuilders put in... I usually tell my customers to
buy a cheap rebuilt 7127 and tear it apart and install the new
componants.,..
d10se12 is a internal one wire regulator...
dr5042 is a heavyduty rectifier bridge...
d528 is a quality diode trio...
the d713L will convert your alternator to a one wire alternator...

the D7014 will also convert your alternator.... but it uses a box that
must be attached to the back of the alternator...the 713 just plugs
in and stays there...
The Following are all ACE part numbers -- Salt Lake City
warehouse (801) 972-3796 & (800)451-1396 -- Phoenix warehouse
(602)272-3800 & (800)742-8400. The one to get if you only get one
is the VR1770SE:
VR1770SE (alternate part number is D10SE12)--Self energizing

14.1 volt regulator ($4 to $6). Works best with average battery.
S1390--Diode Trios for most normal size Alts. ($2)
S1375L--Rectifier Bridge with 200v 50 Amp diodes ($6 to $8)
Second Choice for the volt regulator is:
VR1786SE--Self energizing 14.8 to 15.3 volt regulator. If you run a

Delco sealed top battery it will accept the higher voltage and you

headlights will be brighter, but may not last as long
If you get a 7127 10si alternator these are the parts that you will
need to built it to a one wire alt..
ace VR1770SE voltage regulator (try to get the ace version )

ace S-1375L rectifier bridge long life. with 50amp @200volt diodes
instead of 25A@100volters only a buck more .
ace S-1390 diode trio
the VR-1770SE regulators are self energizing and will control the
alt light. by just hooking up the correct wire .
I do recommend that you use 10 gauge or larger wire (10,8,6,4

gauge,) from the back of the alt to the battery..
I have all kinds of alternator books and starter books so I can give
people parts info for hot rodding most alternators... one wire
regulators are available for most alts.. even the new cs delco units..
these small delcos are hard to do anything too with out replacing
many parts.... but if your bracket only fits a small gm alt it can be
done...
E-mail me at wayne@servsite.com with a description or the alt or

starter and original app or numbers what ever you have..Wayne
Petty
Tech Info Index

Top Chop Page

Tech Info Index
Dream Truck Top Chop

From a 1950's Rod & Custom Article
That was reprinted in Dec. '88 Rod & Custom
This is what I used for instructions in chopping my GMC
..............................
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/dreamtrucktopchop.html (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:15:49 AM]

Top Chop Page
...............................

Top Chop Page

Tech Info Index

Powertrain Guides
Driveshafts for Hydraulics: "Driveshaft surprises are part

of every hydraulics project."
POWER TRAIN SET UP: "Having a little information at

the beginning of your street rod project can make setting up
power train angles one of the simplest steps in the building
process."
DRIVE SHAFT ANGLES RE-VISITED: "Drive train set up

continues to be a baffling and controversial subject."
http://www.iedls.com/guide.html (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:16:20 AM]

Powertrain Guides
OVERDRIVE VIBRATIONS: "If you already have or plan

to install an overdrive transmission, there are a few things you
should know."
UNEXPECTED RESULTS: "Anyone who has ever bolted a

modified part on a car knows that some surprises can be
expected."
HOME | The Critical Link | Driveshafts | Yokes | Bearings | Measure/Order | Set-Up Guide | Links
Copyright ©2002 Inland Empire Driveline Service, Inc.

Web design and hosting by ULTIMATE Internet Access, Inc.
http://www.iedls.com/guide.html (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:16:20 AM]

Air check that switch, Page 4
This is dangerous, be careful!!
Got compressed air?
Check the pressure switch "A" like this picture shows. Use 50 psi or less!!
Some oil will come out of the little hole near the connector. Only a "squirt"
will come out of a good switch. if you get a continous flow or lots of oil
replace the switch. Hook an ohm meter to this swtich, it should zero out if
you have a good connection.

Air check that switch, Page 4
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
E-mail
Transmission home page

700/4L60 lockup, page 2
Pay attention
Here is the modified & relocated wires attached as needed. Notice the
double wire connector is now hooked onto the pressure switch "A" and
the cut off wire at the case connector "B".
The silver switch is a GM part # is 8642473

Here is the case connector that you see on the outside. The front outer
position is for "12 volts" , the rear outer position is where you would
attach the ground wire through a switch to lock up the converter in 2nd or
3rd gears if you wish. You DO NOT need a ground wire here for 4th gear
lockup. The pressure switch "A" inside is a self grounding switch.
Page 3
Page 1

Tranz page
E-Mail

HVLP Spray Gun 2

Tech Info Index
- HVLP Spray Gun #43430 -

This information on the 43430 gun is from Douglas Cox.
Thanks Doug and if anyone else has any information on
this gun they would like to share please e-mail me.
................................
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/HVLPspraygun-2.html (1 of 4) [4/12/2004 12:26:23 AM]

HVLP Spray Gun 2
I have used my 43430 2 or 3 times and it works GREAT

(setup and used as per Sumner's instructions on the old gun --
previous page). I needed to paint some old car parts and I
used a thinned High Gloss Rustoliem@ paint. The
mixture was not the same either time. That is, I just "eye-
balled" the thinning. The air pressure was close, but
again not exactly as before, after all these were just old
car parts that needed painting. Well, the bottom line is
that I was totally amazed each time I used the gun.
Someone would really have to be out in left field to mess
up a paint job using this gun !!!! I sprayed many, many
parts and used very little paint. The coats went on
smooth, even, and uniform. I only had one run and I
knowingly did that to get paint behind a joint. I did not
have any "orange peel" nor sags.
Clean-up was a Snap....again I was surprised. I expected

the paint cup to be stained black, but it looked like new
after clean-up. I don't think they will ever be on sale
again, but they are well
worth the $65 they are selling for now.
In regards to my air compressor, I am using about the

same as you with a 20 gal. tank (mine is a 5 hp. single stage
with a 60 gal tank--Sum). I know that Harbor Freight states
that you need 9.5-14.8 CFM, but I am getting great
results even with the compressor 'kicking in' a lot. So far
the largest thing that I have painted is a car frame. With
two coats, it was a full cup job, and still no runs, sags,
HVLP Spray Gun 2
drips or orange peel.
................................
As a side bar, I made a gun holder from several pieces of

1/4 inch plywood. Two pieces of plywood have a "U"
shaped notch in them and fixed to a one foot piece of
1X6. The notches are about 1 inch wide and about 2
inches deep. The gun rest in the front piece of plywood
which is taller of the two, just behind the nozzle and in
front of the trigger. The second piece of plywood
(shorter) also attaches to the 1X6 and the gun's lower
finger guard/rest sets in it's notch. The gun is cradled in
an upright position and filling the paint cup is very easy
this way.
...............................

HVLP Spray Gun 2
I also installed a water filter and a 2 foot extension air

hose at the gun end. I made a wire loop for the water
filter that hooks to my belt. I am able to walk around,
paint and ensure that I have dry air to the gun.
Doug
..............Return To Previous Page.......................................Next

Page

Tech Info Index

Lock page 3? when will it end?
Pay Attention
Here is a picture of a "loop" you can do for lockup in 4th gear only "if"
your wire setup is like shown here. Do not email me asking " how do I tell
if my wires are like that?"
Take the damn pan off and find out or try the wire looping. If you try it and
it burns something up don't blame me for your stoopidity.
When in doubt, take the pan off and look!
This setup MUST have a silver Normally Open pressure switch! The switch
is a GM part # is 8642473

The loop connects the grounds needed. The wire that comes from
nowhere is "12 volts" when the car is running.

Page 1
Page 2
Tranz page
E-mail

Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links Technical Articles
Frequently Asked Questions

Technical Articles
Get answers to the most common questions about 700R4 transmissions, conversions and lockup.
Torque Converter Clutch Explanation
We've written an in-depth article explaining the torque converter and it's functions as well as discussing
the importance of lockup Vs non-lockup converters.
Lockup Wiring
Take a look at our Wiring Made Ez systems for your overdrive. Get detailed instructions, diagrams
and information about how lockup works, why you need it and why you cant trust a vacuum
modulator.
Check Ball Locations [Valve Body]
This section will show you the locations of the check balls in your valve body.
Check Ball Locations [Case Body]
This section will show you the locations of the check balls in your case body.
Copyright © 2000-2003 Bowtie Overdrives

700r4 2004r 4l80e converters crossmembers tv system tv cable cooling lines overdrive gm automatic torque converter transmission
http://www.700r4.com/tech/index.shtml [4/12/2004 12:33:48 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links
Main Page 2004R Speedometer Sleeve
About Us
Product: 2004R Speedometer Sleeve
Contact Us Price: $13.35
Online Catalog
Customer Login Since General Moters no longer has this part in their supply
system, we were forced to design and manufacture our own. If
Hot New Products
you are in need of a new speedometer sleeve for a 2004R, we
700R4 Transmissions have you covered.
2004R Transmissions
4L80E Transmissions
Extreme Duty Parts
TV System Electronic Ratio Adapter

Cooling Lines Product: Electronic Ratio Adapter
Price: $145.00
Articles About BTO Any change in a vehicle's tire size or rear axle ratio will cause the speedometer
reading to be inaccurate. The Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA) is designed to correct
Car Craft
Street Roder
this problem. With the ERA, you simply hook up four wires, set the DIP switches
Rod & Custom according to the calibration table included with your order, and you are ready to go
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet
March 7th
April 25th Cable X
June 6th
July 18th
August 29th
October 17th
December 5th
For all events we'll be located at Road

16,
Space #'s 21, 23, 25
Hope to see you there!
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/hot/ (1 of 3) [4/12/2004 12:34:42 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Affiliates Product: Mechanical Speedometer to Electronic Speedometer Conversion Kit.

Price: $293.99
Wise Transmissions
Hat Racing
The Cable X is an easy way to operate a mechanical speedometer without having to deal
Race Street Rally
with long messy cables and the hours of downtime installing drive gears in a transmission.
The Cable X is basically an adapter that will pick up the electronic speedometer signal and
will operate the cable driven speedometer to the corresponding speed. The Cable X is
accurate plus or minus 2% on most vehicle's OEM electronic speed signal.
Early Corvette Radiator

Product: 63-67 Corvette Radiator
Price: $495.00
This modern highly efficient all aluminum radiator has a heat exchanger for
automatic transmissions built into the exit side tank. This along with our
Lines Made Ez makes connecting up a modern temperature control
system for automatic transmissions a breeze.
Billet Servo
Product: Billet aluminum red 200R4 4th Gear Servo
Price: $69.00
Custom billet 4th gear servo, 30% more holding power over the
stock servo. Can normally be installed with the transmission in
the vehicle.

Bowtie Overdrives
Product: Billet aluminum blue 700R4 4th Gear Servo
Price: $49.00
Custom billet 4th gear servo, 30% more holding power over the
stock servo. Can normally be installed with the transmission in
the vehicle.


Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Car Craft
Street Rodder
Rod & Custom Installers Kit
$67.00
Part #:INSTALLKIT
BTO Links
Installation Tools - Sub categories
Filters Gauges
Catalog Sections
Installation Tools
· Filters
· Gauges
Hot New Products

700R4 Transmission
2004R Transmission
Speedometer Gears
Shifters
Nuts - Bolts - Screws
Extreme-duty Components
TCC Lock-up
Flexplates
Installation Tools
Dipsticks
Cooling Lines
Inspection Covers
TV Systems
Torque Converter
Crossmembers
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=S (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:34:50 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet
April 25th
June 6th
July 18th
August 29th
October 17th
December 5th

16,
Space #'s 21, 23, 25
BTO Affiliates
Wise Transmissions
Hat Racing
Race Street Rally

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=S (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:34:50 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Speedometer Gears - Sub categories
Car Craft
2004R Gear Sets 700R4 Gear Sets
Street Rodder
Rod & Custom
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Speedometer Gears
· 2004R Gear Sets
· 700R4 Gear Sets
Hot New Products

700R4 Transmission
2004R Transmission
Speedometer Gears
Shifters
TCC Lock-up
Flexplates
Installation Tools
Dipsticks
Cooling Lines
Inspection Covers
TV Systems
Torque Converter
Crossmembers
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=D (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:34:53 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet
April 25th
June 6th
July 18th
August 29th
October 17th
December 5th

16,
Space #'s 21, 23, 25
BTO Affiliates
Wise Transmissions
Hat Racing
Race Street Rally

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=D (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:34:53 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Cooling Lines - Sub categories
Car Craft
700R4 Cooling Lines 2004R Cooling Lines 4L60E Cooling Lines
Street Rodder
Rod & Custom TH-350 Cooling Lines TH-400 Cooling Lines Power Glide Cooling Lines
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Cooling Lines
· 700R4 Cooling Lines
· 2004R Cooling Lines
· 4L60E Cooling Lines
· TH-350 Cooling Lines
· TH-400 Cooling Lines
· Power Glide Cooling Lines
Hot New Products

700R4 Transmission
2004R Transmission
Speedometer Gears
Shifters
TCC Lock-up
Flexplates
Installation Tools
Dipsticks
Cooling Lines
Inspection Covers
TV Systems
Torque Converter
Crossmembers
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=U (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:34:56 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet
April 25th
June 6th
July 18th
August 29th
October 17th
December 5th

16,
Space #'s 21, 23, 25
BTO Affiliates
Wise Transmissions
Hat Racing
Race Street Rally

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=U (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:34:56 AM]

Throttle Valve Made Ez - Bowtie Overdrives
A typical 700R4/2004R installation costs between $1000 to $2500, requires many hours of
labor, skinned knuckles and no small amount of thought, ingenuity and fabrication skills. We
find a very large percentage of people who have installed these overdrives have no idea how
they should behave or what they're actually capable of doing. With that thought in mind, let us
offer you the following:
______________________
● Up shift at the appropriate time when using light throttle.

● Shift with a moderate firmness at light throttle.
● Shift firmness and delay should increase proportionally to the amount of throttle applied.
● Under specific conditions, all Th-700R4 and Th-2004R transmissions should perform the
following downshifts:
❍ Fourth gear to third gear
❍ Fourth gear to second gear
❍ Fourth gear to first gear
❍ Third gear to second gear
❍ Third gear to first gear
● They shouldn't shuttle back and forth from 4th (overdrive to third) while just trying to maintain
the appropriate highway speed.
● Wide open Throttle upshift points should feel firm and occur at the correct RPM.
Most Hot Rodders have read a number of articles emphasizing how "critical" the set up of the TV cable system is to
these nifty overdrive transmissions. The same articles offer little in the way of a reasonable solution concerning how
to set up the TV system between a performance aftermarket carburetor and the transmission. These articles usually
offer impossible to understand diagrams of how the TV system cable needs to be pulled or a procedure to try.
However when they try the procedure the transmission doesn't behave the way they know it should. The results is
most of these folks become so intimidated by this "mystery" system that they readily accept terrible transmission
behavior because they fear ruining their new transmission by not getting it right! We at Bow Tie Overdrives have
always felt these wonderful overdrive automatic transmissions should be the very centerpiece a high performance
vehicle and not have their potential performance compromised in any way!
This whole section of your web site is devoted to helping folks get these wonderful transmissions operating properly
so they can enjoy their new overdrive transmission to its fullest! The subsequent sections will offer a comprehensive
explanation of this complex system, simple tools and how to use them so you can maximize the performance of your
Th-700R4 or Th-2004R with absolute confidence you will not do something to damage it in the process.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/ (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:35:53 AM]

Throttle Valve Made Ez - Bowtie Overdrives
If you are in the need for a solution to your behavior If you would like more information on the TV
problems, check out our precisly engineered systems system it's self, check out our article entitled, "TV
that we have available for most of the popular carurators System 101". This is a 3 part series covering many
/ fuel injection setups. topics.
http://www.tvmadeez.com/ (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:35:53 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Torque Converter Clutch Lockup Wiring
Car Craft
Street Rodder Our Wiring Made Ez kits offer an easy solution for re establishing the critical torque converter clutch lock up function in custom non
Rod & Custom computer controlled installations. Most vehicles that came from the factory with 700R4/2004R transmissions typically used a
computer to control the 12v circuit that controls the engagement of the torque converter clutch. Torque converter clutch
engagement is the only function controlled by a computer on Th-700R4 and Th-2004R transmissions. Using one of our
BTO Links wiring kits it completely eliminates the need to use a computer when installing one of these wonderful overdrive
automatics into a non stock application.
Our wiring kits provide automatic fourth gear only converter clutch lock up (engagement) and automatic unlock (disengagement)
Catalog Sections
whenever the transmission is not in the overdrive (4th) gear position. Our optional manual switch control allows the converter
TCC Lock-up clutch to also be engaged in second or third gears whenever the driver chooses by the simple activation of the on/off switch. Each
· 700R4 of our kits can be installed in under an hour. Take a look at the descriptions below to see which kit you need.
· 2004R
Hot New Products ● Complete Relay style kit

700R4 Transmission
This is our most popular kit since it will work on any vehicle that has electric brake lights! This is a complete kit which
2004R Transmission includes both the internal and external wiring harness and all other necessary components to quickly and easily gain total
Speedometer Gears control of this wonderful feature. This kit contains every item required to convert any computer controlled Th-700R4 to non
Shifters computer control and gives you features not offered by factory set ups. When we say "everything included", that is exactly
Nuts - Bolts - Screws what we mean, everything you will need to get the required automatic lock up (engagement) the torque converter clutch
Extreme-duty Components whenever the transmission is in its four gear (overdrive) position. This kit will automatically unlock (disengage) the torque
TCC Lock-up converter clutch anytime the transmission leaves fourth (overdrive) for any reason. "Everything", includes the necessary
Flexplates wiring, control relay, fuse protection, all required terminals and fuse adapters!
Installation Tools
Dipsticks This kit taps into your vehicles existing brake light circuit to disable converter clutch lock up whenever the brakes are
Cooling Lines applied. This built in safety feature prevents stalling the engine at highway speeds if you should skid the rear tires while in
Inspection Covers lock up!
TV Systems
Torque Converter Click here to see our 'Complete relay style kit' for the 700R4
Crossmembers
·Click here to see the wiring instuctions for this kit.
Click here to see our 'Complete relay style kit' for the 2004R
·Click here to see the wiring instructions for this kit.
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=O (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:35:58 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
● External wiring only Relay style kit
Show Schedule If the builder of your transmission has already provided the required 4th gear pressure switch and self grounding solenoid,
Pomona Swap Meet
you will simply need our external wiring harness to complete the set up. This kit includes everything necessary on the
exterior of the transmission. This kit taps into your vehicles existing brake light circuit to disable converter clutch lock up
April 25th whenever the brakes are applied. This built in safety feature prevents stalling the engine at highway speeds if you should
June 6th skid the rear tires while in lock up!
July 18th
August 29th
Click here to see our 'External relay style kit'
October 17th
December 5th
●
For all events we'll be located at Road Complete GM Plunger Style Brake light switch kit
16, If the vehicle you're installing the Th-700R4 or Th-2004R into is a General Motors vehicle that's already equipped with a
Space #'s 21, 23, 25
factory plunger style brake light switch similar to the one shown here; our GM brake switch kit is simpler and easier to
Hope to see you there! install than the universal Relay Style kit. You simply remove the existing brake light switch and install the one provided in
our kit into the same bracket. Connect the simple single red wire circuit provided in this kit; through the new brake light
switch to a keyed on 12 volts source and you're all set up!
BTO Affiliates
Wise Transmissions
Hat Racing
Race Street Rally Click here to see our 'Brake relay style kit' for the 700R4
Click here to see our 'Brake relay style kit' for the 2004R
·Click here to see the wiring diagram for these two kits.
● Optional manual switch kit to allow for engaging the torque converter clutch in 2nd and 3rd
gears in addition to the automatic overdrive feature.
This kit can quickly be added to either the Relay Style kit or the GM Brake light switch kit. This inexpensive and easy to
install switch allows the driver the ability to engage (lock up) the torque converter clutch whenever he/she chooses by
simply activating the switch. This is a wonderful method of eliminating overheating the fluid inside the torque converter while
towing in 2nd or 3rd gear. Engaging the torque converter completely eliminates work heat from developing inside the
converter. Since this is the major source of heat input into the transmissions fluid, you can minimize the possibility of
overheating your transmission. This is also a very important tool to control the extreme heat build up with high stall
converters. Once engaged, the converter provides a direct mechanical drive to the transmissions input shaft, eliminating
completely the converter as a heat source!
Click here to see our 'Optional manual lockup kit'
·Click here to see the wiring instuctions for the relay manual lockup
·Click here to see the wiring instructions for the Plunger style manual lockup
TCC Lock-up - Sub categories

700R4 2004R
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=O (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:35:58 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Shifters - Sub categories
Car Craft
B&M Shiftworks Kugel Components
Street Rodder
Rod & Custom Gennie
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Shifters
· B&M
· Shiftworks
· Kugel Components
· Gennie
Hot New Products

700R4 Transmission
2004R Transmission
Speedometer Gears
Shifters
TCC Lock-up
Flexplates
Installation Tools
Dipsticks
Cooling Lines
Inspection Covers
TV Systems
Torque Converter
Crossmembers
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=L (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:00 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet
April 25th
June 6th
July 18th
August 29th
October 17th
December 5th

16,
Space #'s 21, 23, 25
BTO Affiliates
Wise Transmissions
Hat Racing
Race Street Rally

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=L (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:00 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Crossmembers - Sub categories
Car Craft
700R4 Crossmembers 2004R Crossmembers
Street Rodder
Rod & Custom
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Crossmembers
· 700R4 Crossmembers
· 2004R Crossmembers
Hot New Products

700R4 Transmission
2004R Transmission
Speedometer Gears
Shifters
TCC Lock-up
Flexplates
Installation Tools
Dipsticks
Cooling Lines
Inspection Covers
TV Systems
Torque Converter
Crossmembers
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=Y (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:03 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet
April 25th
June 6th
July 18th
August 29th
October 17th
December 5th

16,
Space #'s 21, 23, 25
BTO Affiliates
Wise Transmissions
Hat Racing
Race Street Rally

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=Y (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:03 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Articles About BTO

Torque Converter - Sub categories
Car Craft
700R4 Converters 2004R Converters
Street Rodder
Rod & Custom
BTO Links
Catalog Sections
Torque Converter
· 700R4 Converters
· 2004R Converters
Hot New Products

700R4 Transmission
2004R Transmission
Speedometer Gears
Shifters
TCC Lock-up
Flexplates
Installation Tools
Dipsticks
Cooling Lines
Inspection Covers
TV Systems
Torque Converter
Crossmembers
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=X (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:05 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
Pomona Swap Meet
April 25th
June 6th
July 18th
August 29th
October 17th
December 5th

16,
Space #'s 21, 23, 25
BTO Affiliates
Wise Transmissions
Hat Racing
Race Street Rally

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=X (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:05 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Show Schedule
BTO Links BTO Affiliates
Pomona Swap Meet
Main Page Wise Transmissions
About Us April 25th Hat Racing
Contact Us June 6th Race Street Rally
Online Catalog July 18th
Customer Login August 29th
October 17th
December 5th Articles about BTO
Hot New Products
Car Craft
700R4 Transmissions For all events we'll be located at Road 16, Space #'s 21, 23, 25
Street Rodder
2004R Transmissions Rod & Custom
4L80E Transmissions Customer Login
Extreme Duty Parts
TV System
Cooling Lines
BTO News
·We've been having server issues lately
and bugs with the site, but all has been
fixed
·New Vortec and King Demon

TV Systems Available
·Due to unfortunate circumstances,

all of our customer emails have
been lost.
If you have submitted an email
recently and
have not received a reply, please
resubmit your query. Thank you.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/ [4/12/2004 12:36:11 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links Frequently Asked Questions
FAQ
Can I run a Th-700R4 in my

vehicle without a computer?
Can I do this kind of installation How difficult are the

myself? transmissions to install?
What is the T.V. What is a lock up torque

cable? converter?
How much horsepower can the What rear end gear ratios work
Th-700R4 handle? well?
http://www.700r4.com/faq/faq.shtml (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:53 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
I’ve heard that the first gear

ratio is lower then either the TH-
What kind of mileage increase 350 or TH-400.
should I expect? Is this true, and if so, what
effects will this have on my
car?

http://www.700r4.com/faq/faq.shtml (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:36:53 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links Torque Converter Explaination
Converter Explaination
TCC Wiring
[Index] [Part 1] [Part 2] [Part 3] [Part 4] [Part 5] [Part 6]
Notice:
The following information and the opinions expressed here are directed at regularly driven street
vehicles, not race cars! If you have a race only application, you certainly don't need a lock up converter,
but you may wish one if you feel direct driving during a race would be beneficial. If you have a race car
disguised as a street car, you definitely need a lock up converter!
http://www.700r4.com/tech/tc_article/index.shtml (1 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:37:18 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Let me state up front, we as a company, believe very strongly all street applications will benefit tremendously by using
the lock up converter feature. In our opinion, a correctly understood and properly used lock up converter clutch offers
tremendous benefits and has no downsides (other than possibly a small weight savings and some possible cost
differences). Furthermore, we feel that not using a lock up converter has inherent negative effects that are undeniable and
will lead to a shortened transmission life. These downsides are easy to demonstrate and will be explained in detail in the
following sections. We have heard lots of arguments why a lock up converter shouldn't be used but never heard one that
makes sense to us. There is a lot of companies that will tell people these clutch mechanisms are weak and prone to
failure. We have been building and installing only Th-700R4 and Th-2004R transmissions for over seven years and
consider these converter clutch mechanisms to be almost bullet proof if built and used correctly. If other sources don't
have the same success with their converter clutches, maybe they should find the problem and correct it instead of
advising their customers to eliminate one of the greatest features available in automatic transmissions since the
development of the torque converter itself.
The purpose of this technical write up is to help our customers understand what the torque converter "lock up"
clutch function is, how it works and why it is so essential to the overall efficiency and longevity of these
overdrives. This Torque Converter section of our web site is in seven parts. We have tried to set up this section to allow
the visitor to access any single part listed below for clarification of only certain areas that they may not fully understand.
Feel free to start with part one and go through this whole explanation from beginning to end. If you don't necessarily want
an in depth understanding of this lock up system, just wish to purchase a system to control it, please feel free to go directly
to the seventh part and just order the system you need. Our kits come with complete wiring instructions plus we have a
step by step installation guide and schematics for on line viewing in part six. I would advise you to go to part 4 so you will
at least understand why it's so important and how to properly use the system.
● Part 1 - Describes all the major torque converter components.

●
Part 2 - Describes only the mechanical components used for converter clutch lock up.
●
Part 3 - An explanation of the electrical and hydraulic control circuits.

● Part 4 - Describes why lock up is needed, how to control it and when it should be used.
● Part 5 - Describes the two complete electrical wiring methods we offer and how to choose the one right for your
application.
● Part 6 - Step by step wiring installation instructions and schematic drawings.
● Click here for our wiring section

* Purchase wiring kits
* Installation instructions
* Wiring diagrams

http://www.700r4.com/tech/tc_article/index.shtml (2 of 2) [4/12/2004 12:37:18 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
BTO Links Torque Converter Clutch Wiring
Installation Relay style wiring kit
● Purchase kit / More information

TCC Wiring ● Installation instructions
● Wiring diagram
● Installation instructions for towing
option
Brake switch style wiring kit
● Purchase kit / More information

● Installation instructions
● Wiring diagram
● Installation instructions for towing
option
Internal wiring kit
● 2004r Installation instructions

● 700R4 Installation instructions
● Wiring diagram

http://www.700r4.com/tech/tcc/index.shtml [4/12/2004 12:37:52 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Technical Articles

http://www.700r4.com/tech/checkballs/cseballloc.shtml [4/12/2004 12:38:22 AM]

Bowtie Overdrives
Valve Body
Technical Articles
Top-Left:
Valve Body Top View. Shown in the two red
circles are the locations for the check balls in the
700R4 transmissions.
Bottom-Left:
Close up of the Valve Body. The red arrows are
pointing to the check balls sitting in their proper
locations.

http://www.700r4.com/tech/checkballs/chkballloc.shtml [4/12/2004 12:38:38 AM]

Drivetrain Tech
ATTENTION: These pages were created & copyrighted by Steve Parker. They reside here on
MonteCarloSS.com only until we can contact Steve to get his site back up in operation.
Transmission Ratios
GM Transmission Ratios
TRANSMISSION 1ST 2ND 3RD 4TH 5TH
Borg-Warner T-5 (GM Applications) 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.63
Borg-Warner T-5 (GM Close Ratio) 2.75 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.74
Borg-Warner T-10 2nd Design 2.64 1.61 1.23 1.00 n/a
GM Muncie (M-21, M-22) 2.20 1.64 1.28 1.00 n/a
GM Muncie (M-20) 2.52 1.88 1.46 1.00 n/a
GM Powerglide 1.76 1.00 n/a n/a n/a
GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 2.52 1.52 1.00 n/a n/a
GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 400 2.48 1.48 1.00 n/a n/a
GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 200-R4 2.74 1.57 1.00 0.67 n/a
GM Turbo Hydra-Matic 700-R4 3.06 1.62 1.00 0.70 n/a
Final Drive ratios
http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/drivetrain.html (1 of 26) [4/12/2004 12:46:29 AM]

Drivetrain Tech
Using the 200 Using the 700

1st -> 10.22 1st -> 11.41
2nd -> 5.85 2nd -> 6.82
3rd -> 3.73 3rd -> 3.73
4th -> 2.49 4th -> 2.68
Using the 350 Using the 400
1st -> 8.61 1st -> 8.48
2nd -> 5.19 2nd -> 5.06
3rd -> 3.42 3rd -> 3.42
Final drive ratios for TH200R4 and TH700-4R with 3.73:1 gearing.
Final drive ratios for TH350 and TH400 with 3.42:1 gearing.
TH200R4 rebuild info

These are modifications that I do to the TH200R4 when I Rebuild them. As I have stated before, I am NOT
Art Carr or Mike Kurtz or Level 10 or ?.. Just a hobbyist who likes to do things himself whenever possible.
Some people may disagree, some may not, but it is what has worked for me(so far). Some modifications are
for VERY hard shifts and are not necessary for a mild rebuild(items are noted). Any other things that I have
missed or people do different, I would like to know. I’m always open for new ways, idea’s and methods.
One thing I must mention is that you need a shop manual and/or someone who is VERY familiar with these
transmissions. For example, there are a lot of torrington bearings that MUST be installed a certain way
(some not the way you would think the are to be installed) and clearances that MUST be set correctly or it
will break (trust me I know...).
Disassembly. Pretty straightforward for disassembly. One thing to note is the input drum teeth to direct
clutch drum notches. Mark both drums as to their mating for reassembly (can be seen after dropping the
pan). Remove everything from bottom of trans (filter, valvebody, wiring/TCC solenoid,governor/cover,1-2
accumulator housing/backing plate, separator plate, 3-4 accumulator and check balls). Remove front pump
bolts. Although there is a special puller for removing the pump, I use a brass drift/hammer(lightly) on the
exposed portion of the rear pump body. Same with removing the center support(exposed outer area of the
support). For the low/reverse clutch housing, I use a piece of #6 solid copper wire bent in a "L" shape
inserted between the output shaft and the housing. Turn wire to get it under the housing and pull it out(kinda
crude but works for me....). As you disassemble the main drive pieces, assemble them back together(I use
the converter, on the floor, hub up ,install pump and the rest of the main drive in the order that it came out of
the case). Clean/inspect everything thoroughly one section at a time. Carb cleaner works great for removing
all the clutch dust in the drums/housings and valves. Average about 6 large cans. Foamy Brite works good
on the case/valvebody for removing grime and clutch dust(although if possible take the case to a machine
shop and have it hot-tanked. Assemble with new clutches/bearings(if needed) and re-assemble outside case.

Drivetrain Tech
Inspection -Most of the problem spots are: 4th clutch is usually burned or hot spots on the steels/backing
plate. Direct clutch and Forward clutch have same problem. Pump converter bushing worn/galled. Rear
pump body grooved from pump rotor(requires replacement of pump assembly) Stator support splines
chewed up/worn. Broken 1-2 accumulator spring. Sometimes 2nd gear band burned/pitted(from broken 1-2
accumulator spring).
Rebuild kits/Shift kits This section I am biased on what to use. I use Art Carr’s Super rebuild kit and Mike
Kurtz/Art Carr shift kits. Although some people like the B&M shift kit, I personally don’t like using the
spacers for the accumulators. I would rather use a stiffer spring, but all three work well. Some of the
modifications are from a Trans-go kit(front pump seal drain hole) but I have never installed one of these
kits. A friend gave me the instructions from this kit and this is the only modification I use from them.
Re-assembly -Start with the front pump modifications. Once finished, you can install the pump upside-
down in the case and torque the bolts for the two pump halves. This will line the pump halves up(and will
eliminate the requirement for a special tool). Front pump -A few modifications in this area. First drill the
front seal area drain hole(angled passage viewed from the front of the pump with the seal removed)to a
¼". Drill the intersecting passage and mating passage in rear pump half to 5/16". This will help front
seal drainback to the pan and will keep from blowing the front seal out. Re-assemble pump slide and
pressure relief with stock springs. If on a budget re-use stock 7 vane pump(here comes the flaming
responses...) although I use 10 vane pumps. They are not too expensive(around 55.00. I get them from a
transmission warehouse). Main item here is the pump vane rings. Stock ones are cast and if the haven’t
failed consider yourself fortunate. Install hardened steel pump vane rings. Remove stock stator support from
rear pump body and install new hardened spline stator support. Replace existing pressure regulator
valve/spring in rear pump body with new design valve/spring. I use Art Carr’s valve although Mike Kutrz’s
is the same.
Transmission Case- (not necessary for mild rebuild) The objective of most shift kits is to limit the travel of
the accumulators either by stiffer springs or spacers(plus a few valvebody mods and pump operating
pressures). In my personal cars, I eliminate the accumulators completely so that all the oil is directed to the
clutches. Tap the passage that feeds the 3-4 accumulator with ¼-20 tap. Install a ¼-20x1/2"
allen screw with red loctite in the passage to block it off. Perform the same modification to the 1-2
accumulator housing. The only accumulator left in the oil circuits is the 3rd accumulator which is needed to
"push off" the 2nd gear band. Trans-go kit installs a .030" washer under the 3rd accumulator spring, but I
have found no difference with or without it... I also change (if it’s not a Grand National trans) the servo
cover, servo piston and 3rd accumulator to a Grand National servo setup. The piston is larger than other
pistons and allows for more fluid area to apply the band for 2nd.(haven’t done one in a Monte Carlo yet. It
may have the large cover/piston/accumulator already). All the other transmissions did not have these pieces.
I also step up one size in the servo apply pin. These pins are identified by the number of rings on the pin tip
that fits in the band. Trans-go kit installs a washer between the 3rd accumulator and the apply pin. I would
rather use the next size apply pin. Be warned though, I have burned up the 2nd gear band because there
was not enough clearance between the band and the direct drum. It’s best to assemble the servo with
the original apply pin. If the 1-2 shift is not "hard" enough for your taste, then you can change the pin in the
car(although a cat converter makes it fun.....)
Valve Body -Install the springs supplied with the shift kit your using. Most shim/change the line bias valve

Drivetrain Tech
spring so that it stays closed from exhaust. Some kits change the Throttle valve spring to a stiffer spring.
Some kits remove the throttle valve modulator downshift spring. Some kits change the 2-3 valve shift
spring. What-ever kit you use, install what the require. The separator plate mods are usually the same. Most
drill the "RND4D3" orifice, 2nd oil feed(next to 1-2 shift valve check ball) and "RND4" orifice to 1/8"
(shown in the factory or ASTG manual). Mike Kurtz also drills the 3rd clutch(direct) orifice and the throttle
valve orifice to 1/8" also(which is what I use). Which ever kit you use, go with their instructions.
Main drive/assembly in case -Now for the fun part. Although the special "J" tools make it easier, this
method has worked for me. After new rear bushing/seals are installed, it’s time to install the main drive
assembly. I use a new driveshaft yoke installed in the rear of the transmission. Install the rear output shaft
into the case and into the yoke. Set the depth of the yoke in the rear of the trans so that the rear internal
gear(on the output shaft)teeth are centered with the parking pawl. Tie off the yoke ends with a piece of
bailing wire to the outside of the trans to secure it in place(I know...crude method but it works for me...)
This will hold the output shaft/rear internal gear in the correct place for re-assembly of the lo/reverse clutch,
rear carrier, clutch housing, input drum, front carrier, front internal gear and rear selective thrust washer and
snap ring.
Lo/reverse clutch- Original setup uses 6 clutches and 7 steels with 1 wave plate. New setup uses same
amount. I install a new wave plate from GM (see part number listing). Also install a copper thrust washer on
the back of the input drum(original is plastic except for GN’s).Also if not already provided, install new
roller thrust bearing in rear carrier roller clutch(see parts listing). Some rear carriers have a plastic thrust
washer instead of a bearing- Get a bearing if you can- more durable. Assemble main drive to snap ring on
output shaft. Remove yoke setup once snap ring is installed and check rear unit endplay. Set up dial
indicator(I use an old brake drum and set the tail shaft in the center to allow the output shaft to hang freely)
with clamp and set to "0". Pick up transmission and set down on output shaft. Read dial indicator(should be
.004-.025". I try to set it at .006-.012"). If not within this clearance (usually is with original washer) then
rear selective washer must be changed to bring clearance within tolerance.
Forward clutch- This clutch is not too much of a problem spot although the housing/splined shaft is in
higher horsepower applications. I have broken the shaft right out of the housing and broken the splines off
the end of the shaft. When this happens you have NOTHING(forward or reverse). Last year I was talking to
Mike Kurtz at the GS nationals. He was TIG welding the splines to the shaft but still suffered failures. He
was experimenting with heat treating the spline/shaft. I don’t know if he had success or not with it. For
higher horsepower applications I install a new housing from GM and have not had a problem(so far....).
Original setup uses 4 clutches, 3 steels, with 1 wave plate and 1 backing plate. New setup also uses same
amount. I install a new backing plate from GM(backing plate is usually burned or hot spotted). See part
number listing.
Direct clutch- This clutch is usually burned and is a problem spot. Original setup uses 6 clutches and 6
steels with 1 backing plate. New setup was 7 clutches (now has gone to 8) 7 steels (also gone to 8 using Art
Carr’s super rebuild kit) and 1 backing plate. I install a new backing plate from GM(backing plate is usually
burned or hot spotted). See part number listing. I also modify the retainer/spring assembly. Original retainer
uses 16 springs for piston return. I remove 6 springs from the retainer so that the piston does not have to
overcome so much spring pressure to apply. Setup retainer springs so that there are 3 springs (starting with
the center of the three over the check ball in the piston) 2 removed, 2 installed, 1 removed, 3 installed 2

Drivetrain Tech
removed, 2 installed and 1 removed. I install a new backing plate from GM (backing plate is usually burned
or hot spotted). See part number listing. Assemble forward clutch into direct clutch, lining teeth from input
drum into direct clutch drum (indicator mark from disassembly). Install center support and bolt in place.
Stand trans on end of output shaft. Install dial indicator on spline tip of forward clutch shaft and "0".
Check front unit endplay - by pulling up on forward clutch shaft and read dial indicator ( I use a small pair
of vise grips on the spline end to pull it up. They don’t need to be SUPER tight (spline damage) just enough
to pick it up) (BTW, I recommend that you wrap the shaft with something to save the splines but won't slip-
Tom). Front unit endplay should be .022-.051" (I set at .026-.030"). If not within specifications, (this is the
fun part...) you have to tear the main drive all the way down to the output shaft and change the front
selective washer. Start with the original one and work from there. If you are a picky as I am you will do this
4-5 times to get the clearance you want (also helps to have all 15 front selective washers...).
Fourth clutch- This is also where Art Carr has improved over stock. Install new shorter piston(supplied in
rebuild kit). Install spring retainer and snap ring(I use one large screwdriver to push the spring retainer down
and work the snap ring in the snap ring groove working in a circle). Original setup uses 2 clutches and 3
steels with 1 backing plate. I install a new backing plate from GM (backing plate is usually burned or hot
spotted). See part number listing.
Overrun clutch- Nothing special here. Original setup uses 2 clutches 2 steels 1 backing plate. New setup
uses same amount. I install a new backing plate from GM (backing plate is usually burned or hot spotted).
See part number listing. If a firmer torque converter clutch lock-up is desired, remove the check ball in the
end of the input shaft. This allows the lock-up clutch to apply faster due to no restriction for exhaust of the
oil (If you notice the check ball has a small hole the allows oil to pass by the check ball at a certain rate).
Another warning, some converters have weak springs in the lock-up clutch and can break (although I have
not had this problem, just passing it on...) from the fast apply of the clutch. Install pump without o-ring and
gasket to check the overdrive unit endplay.(last one... finally....Are we having fun yet???). Stand up trans on
end and set dial indicator to read tip of input shaft. Pull up (3 lbs of force...) till you "feel the snap ring on
the end of the input shaft hit the bottom of the overrun carrier(I usually see about .024-.028") then "0 dial
indicator. Pull up harder(20 Lbs...) and read clearance. Should be .004-.027" clearance(I set to .006-.012").
If not within specifications.. guess what...another selective washer to change. You have to tear down the
maindrive all the way down to the rear output shaft...(Just kidding...). Just pull the pump and change the
overdrive washer on the back of the stator support. I use petrolatum jelly to retain the washer to the back of
the stator support to bring clearance within specifications. This clearance is VERY important!!! If set too
loose the overrun carrier will thrust back into the overdrive internal gear and hammer the thrust bearing until
it fails (Trust me...it will). Try the 3 lbs force/20 lbs force a couple of times till you get a feel for the snap
ring hitting the overrun carrier and the overrun clearance. Bolt the front pump in with o-ring and gasket
installed and new bolt washers and your done!!! (whew...) at least with the main drive....
Assemble valvebody and related parts(check balls installed per instructions (use petrolatum to hold in
place), modified separator plate, accumulator housing, governor and cover, and wiring. Another trick is to
JB weld the edges of the filter where the metal is crimped to the plastic. On hard acceleration, the oil goes to
the back of the pan and the pump will suck air from the leaks at the front of the crimp on the filter. Also
trash the little orange filter ring on the filter tube and use 2 o-rings. This offers a better seal around the filter

Drivetrain Tech
tube to the pump inlet. That’s It... Hopefully the rebuild box will be empty except for a few Teflon
accumulator rings. When you open the rebuild box and look at all those rubber parts/seals and think "What
the hell am I doing?" It’s no too bad just TAKE YOUR TIME and READ the shop manual before and while
your doing the rebuild. These transmissions are NOT for the novice!! If you have any questions or
something is not clear you can E-mail me at alehosk@crosslink.net.
Tools Required- Press, Dial indicator with clamp and 8" adjustment rod, Drive shaft yoke, Snap ring
pliers, Brass drift Hammer (Ford wrench...) Screwdrivers, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, Torque wrench (3/8"
preferred), Feeler gauges(I use a .008 gauge for a lip seal tool but lip seal tool is preferred) ,#27 Torx
bit(stator support change), Misc. Sockets (seal drivers.. That ¾" drive set has to be used for
something...) Drill (3/8 variable speed) ,and drill bits, Bushing drivers.
Andy just e-mailed me, and let me know that some of the part numbers have changed, He's going to e-
mail the new numbers to me and I will post them... Meanwhile, your friendly (unfriendly?) GM dealer
should be able to cross reference them.
Parts List Rebuild kit ,(Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) Shift kit, (Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) Pressure regulator
valve, (Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) Transmission drain plug(now’s the time to install it) Hardened stator
support (Art Carr or Mike Kurtz), 10 vane pump(optional) (Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) Hardened pump rings
(TransGo ,Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) 2nd gear band (kevlar preferred, Art Carr or Mike Kurtz) if not use GM
#8634919 Bearing(sun gear to internal gear), GM #8628962(if required) Bearing(Thrust Rear carrier to
lo/reverse roller clutch) GM #8648389 (if plastic washer installed) Plate(lo/reverse clutch waved) GM
#8633371 Washer(input drum to housing copper) GM #8626372 Bearing(front carrier to sun gear) GM
#8633875(if required) Bearing(internal gear to carrier) GM #8628202(if required). Plate(forward clutch
backing(6.31mm)) GM #8628088 Plate(forward clutch waved) GM #8628085 Plate(Direct clutch
backing(4.50mm)) GM #8632570 Bearing(overdrive carrier to internal gear) GM #8634035 (if required)
Bearing(overdrive carrier to sun gear thrust) GM #8634035 (if required) Plate(overrun clutch backing) GM
#8634864 Plate(4th clutch backing) GM #8634866 Screen(pump solenoid) GM #8627509
Thanks to Art Carr, Mike Kurtz, Level 10, and TransGo for the painstaking research to cure the TH 200
R4's problems, and parting with their latest high tech fixes! Many tranny guys don't want to tell you
anything unless you hand them a pile of cash...
Making the 200-4R "bullet-proof"

Updated by George Dumpit (4/97)
The TH700R4 is a stronger tranny, a disadvantage is slightly higher ratios for all gears (except 3rd of

Drivetrain Tech
course) I say "disadvantage" for those of us who want to get a little more gas mileage out of it. For full race,
the 700R4 is an easy choice. Aftermarket 700r4's can be found for around $1550.
The TH350's and TH400's are good trannys as well but the SS's love 4th gear. For more good info on
building up the TH200-4R's, talk to a GN owner...
TH200-4R build-up parts list:
● Hardened stator support

● 10 vane pump
● Hardened chrome pump rings (stock are cast rings and break, another cause of failure)
● The newest re-designed pressure regulator valve (it's been re-designed about 4 times so far)
● Opening up the front pump seal drainback hole to at least 5/16" to keep from blowing the front seal
out.
● The Kevlar band is a VERY good band so long as the band clearance is not too tight.
● Change the servo apply pin to a 3 ring or 0 ring (longest) pin to apply the band around the direct
drum.
● GN servo cover, piston and 3rd accumulator piston.
● Add the extra clutches to the direct (3rd gear) and overdrive(4th) clutches as well as the hardened
forward clutch housing shaft
● B&M Stage II shift kit (Transpak)
Proven neck snapping shifts good to roughly 450HP. (estimated)
A higher stall converter along with a nice strong limited-slip rear is also recommended. Good u-joints are a
must. Traction bars are a plus. :)
GM Throttle Valve (TV) Cable

Adjustment
GM has a number of automatic transmissions that, instead of having a vacuum modulator to sense engine
load, use a Throttle Valve Cable, attached to the throttle linkage. When the throttle is depressed, the cable is
"pulled" progressively with throttle position. In addition to providing forced downshifts (kickdown), and
progressively later (higher speed) upshifts at higher throttle settings, the throttle valve also adjusts main line
pressure in the transmission. Operating a transmission with the TV cable out of adjustment, can, not only
produce early, or late upshifts, but incorrect line pressure, as well. What this means, in simple terms, is that
TV pressure that is too low, will produce main line pressure that is also too low, and will eventually "burn"
the transmission clutches.

Drivetrain Tech
Before a transmission is test driven (after installation) a preliminary adjustment must be made, and then
"fine tuned" during the test drive. Adjust the cable so that it will be pulled all the way, when the throttle is
simultaneously opened all of the way (with the engine turned off, of course). Make sure that the cable
returns (with no binding) when the throttle is released. This preliminary adjustment will frequently be too
"high", and the throttle pressure will have to be reduced, to attain proper shift points. I prefer to start with an
adjustment that is "too high", and then work down, rather than "too low" and work up.
How to adjust your Throttle Cable

To raise throttle pressure (raise shift points, and makes "kickdown" more responsive) move the cable
housing towards the firewall (away from the throttle linkage), as you simultaneously depress the 'D' shaped
button on the cable housing. Move the cable housing adjustment a small amount at a time (one "click"); a
small adjustment can often make a world of difference. Naturally, to lower the pressure (lower shift points,
and make "kickdown" less sensitive) move the cable housing towards the throttle linkage.
200-4R vs. 700-R4

From: Jim Dobravec (jim@yoda.sscl.uwo.ca) For those who are still debating between the 200-R4 and 700-
R4.... there is an article in the March 1995 Hot Rod issue where they do a tranny comparo between the two.
They basically asked the "experts" at Art Carr and TCI about the two trannys. Some of the highlights were: -
200-4R comes with a universal bolt pattern bellhousing (fits Chev Buick Olds Pontiac engines) - 700-R4 is
a Chev only pattern. - 200-4R offers full-throttle upshift into overdrive, while only the 91 and later Corvette
700-R4s offer this feature. - a few years ago GM ghanged the 700-R4 designation to 4L60 same
tranny except 4L60-E is computer controlled. - Most tranny companies agree that the early 700-R4s had
some durability problems and must be highly modified to make good performance engines.(didn't say what
the mods are) - the early 82-84 700-R4 units had a smaller 27-slpine input shaft and should be avoided. -
the 85-87 700-R4s can be upgraded but both companies recommended starting with an 88-93 700-R4 - as
for the 200-4R, the best are the ones used in the turbo Buick T-Types and Grand Nationals, but any of the
86-88 gearboxes are good cores. - Art Carr claims both are equally durable and both can handle up to
600 lbs-ft of torque and around 700hp (not stock I'm sure!!) - Art Carr has been adapting the 200-4R for use
in automatic equipped Mustangs. (sounds like putting chevy engines into a Ford again :) ) Bottom Line: -
both TCI and Art Carr also agree that HOW you use the tranny is a big factor in selecting the correct
performance automatic. If blasting 9's on the dragsrip is your plan of attack a performance built Turbo 400
or powerglide is the best choice. Both the 200-4R and the 700-R4 will live on the dragstrip behind some
pretty powerful engines. However keep in mind the quicker the car runs the more abuse the tranny has to
endure, which in turn will reduce its life expectancy. --- From: J Gray (jgray01@mail.state.mo.us) I
know this subject has already been discussed, but as I was digging though my old HOT ROD magazines and
I found this interesting article "THE GREAT DEBATE (700-R4 vs. 200-R4) Which is the Better Overdrive?
"HOT ROD MARCH 1995" Here are a few highlights that I copyed straight for the

Drivetrain Tech
article. All 200-R4s offer full-throttle upshifts into overdrive while only the '91 and later Corvette 700-R4s
offer this feature. The early '82-'84 700-R4s units had a smaller, 27-spline input shaft and should be
avoided. The '85-'87 700-R4s can be upgraded, but most companies recommend starting with an '88-'93 700-
R4. These transmissions offer a number of advantages that enhance durability. The best 200-R4s are
between '86-88. While the 700-R4 offers the deepest first-grear ratio, this does not necessarily make it
the best choice. Note that the 700-R4's first-to-second-gear drop is far greater than the 200-R4's. This will
hurt acceleration. 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 200-R4 2.74 1.57 1.00 .67
700-R4 3.06 1.62 1.00 .70 "The key is that the 200-R4 is as durable as the 700-R4"
700R4 Overhaul Tips
Introduction
The 700r4 (or 4L60 as it is now called) is a fully automatic 4-speed transmission with a lock-up torque
converter. It was first introduced in 1982, and came mainly in the General Motors pick-up truck line. Later,
the transmission started showing up in almost all of the rear-wheel drive automobiles in the Chevrolet and
GMC line, until 1993 when it was discontinued (The 4L60E and the 4L80E replaced the 4L60). During the
11 years of production, there have been a multitude of changes; Some worked . . . and some didn't, but
overall, the transmission has become a reliable gearbox after overhaul, as long as the proper "updates" have
been made, and a little care is taken.
In the early days of the 4L60 transmission (back when they called it the 700r4), there were LOTS of week
points. The technicians hated them. The backyard mechanics hated them. People were putting TH350's and
400's in place of the 700r4. It seemed that every one that was overhauled, came right back....blown up.(Not
every one, but it sure seemed that way!) Actually, the TH350 was that way when it first came out; The HEI
ignition system (GM electronic ignition) was that way too; people were putting Powerglides in the place of
the "unreliable 350's"; They took out the HEI, and put "point-style ignition" in it's place; And lots of
backyard mechanics have been known to disable the self-adjusters on drum brakes, claiming that they , too,
are unreliable. Well, now, as with all the other examples, we have learned what works....and what doesn't,
and are able to build a 700r4 that is reliable.
Overhaul Tips
I have been overhauling 700's for about 10 years now, and during that time I have learned alot. (Why do I
always have to learn the hard way?) I now overhaul, on the average, about two a week (that's average; some
weeks more and some weeks less.) I picked up some "tricks" along the way, and have found this unit to be
both, a reliable and a desireable transmission after a few modifications. As with all the other late-model
generation of transmissions, this trans must be clean and care must be taken during inspection and assembly.
Follow torque specifications closely.

Drivetrain Tech
There are basically 3 major versions of the 700r4. From '82 until '84 there was a small-input-shaft unit with
the same spline as the 200c transmission. It took an RPM part# C-21 (gas) or C-37 (diesel) torque
converter*. Make sure not to use the later torque converter. It will install just fine, but the vehicle will not
move when you are finished! From '85 to '87 there was a large input shaft version, which has the same
spline as a 350 trans. It takes an RPM part # C-40 (gas) and a C-39 (diesel) torque converter*. The early
torque converter ('82-'84) will not install, so there is no danger of using the early torque converter on the
large shaft. From '87 1/2 up, the large shaft is still used, but GM incorporated an auxilary valve body to
cushion engagement into drive.
There are some interchange problems that arise. There have been many changes to the 700r4 trans since it's
first production. Obviously, input shafts (and the drums that connect to them) are different. Reverse input
drums come in three different varietys ('82-early '87, which has a square oil orifice, and a steel piston, '87-
'92, which has a smaller round oil orifice, and an aluminum piston, and '93, which has an aluminum piston
and a larger square orifice (similar to the early drum). Pump stator supports, and their respective pump
halves have changed through the years. There are, as you may have guessed, small shaft, large shaft, and '87
1/2 up auxilary valve body versions. There is an early ('82 to '84) sprag assembly that has gold thrust
washers, and uses the plastic washer between it and the front planet; And the later version of the sprag
assembly, that has silver thrust washers and Does not use the plastic washer between it and the front
planet....put a washer there and you will eliminate all thrust end-clearance, and the unit will fry (I told you, I
have to learn everything the hard way....Oh well, at least this way, I never forget this detail!). Always
replace the valve body separater plate with the same code stamped on the plate. Watch the checkball
location. Different years take different locations. Prior to '87 1/2, there are (5) 1/4" check balls in the case
and (3) 1/4" check balls in the valve body. Later years take (4) and in rare cases (5) in the case and (2) in the
valve body and (1) in the auxilary valve body.
During overhaul, I grind two flat spots on the Pressure regulater valve (GM has an updated valve which
essentially does the same thing), and I replace the TV Boost valve with GM part #8634940. Replace the
check ball capsule (GM# 8634400)in the case (the one that extends into the servo area). I remove it by
threading a 3/8 coarse long bolt into the capsule, and "slide hammering" it out. Install using an old PR valve,
and align the holes in the capsule with the opening in the servo area. I also remove the check ball that is in
the capsule at the rear of the case (the one that feeds the low/reverse piston) on later units that have the ball
(the early units don't have the ball). I drill four holes in the separater plate; 3/4 release hole to .078", 2nd
band apply to .110", 2/3 apply to .110" and T.V. balance hole to .055". Also, make sure that the gaskets do
not cover the hole in separater plate.(see photo). I install GM part # (8642970) lock-up valve on the early

Drivetrain Tech
transmissions
that don't
have
computer
controlled
lockup
circuits,
shortening
the spring by
one coil with
a set of side
cutters for
the gas rigs,
and installing
the valve
with the
spring
unaltered for
the diesels. I
put washers
between the
TV plunger
and the TV
valve spring
to effectively
make the spring longer (one washer for the gas rigs and two washers for the diesels). Put new iron vane
rings (RPM #54222A) in the pump assembly (the early ones were prone to breakage). Loctite the pump seal
with red #271 Loctite. Check to make sure that the rear ringgear is the updated GM version that comes as
standard equipment on (I think) '85 and newer (it will have 3 lines stamped in the side of the park teeth). If
not, replace with GM part # 8667055. Replace the early accumulator pistons (again I'm only guessing) '85
and older, with later pistons with rubber rings rather than teflon. On '87 and later models, I discard the 3/4
release springs and drill the 3/4 release hole in the separater plate (see photo). I install solid type teflon rings
on the input shaft with a special tool (RPM # J29569). Set up the end clearance (.005-.036); The #70
selective washer seems to work 80% of the time. On the 6 cylinder versions (S10 and camaro) I replace the
3/4 apply "fingers" in the aluminum drum with the V8 version, which is lower, allowing one more clutch
and steel than the original. In addition, on the 6 cylinders, I remove the aluminum plate and top overrun
steel plate from the forward clutch line-up and replace with a V8 version apply pressure plate, allowing one
more forward clutch and steel plate. On the same application, I replace the reverse input piston with a V8
version, which is shorter, and will accept one more clutch and steel. On the later ('87 1/2 up) reverse input
drum pistons (the later drum comes with an aluminum piston.), I reduce the size of the bleed-off orifice in
the piston by installing Fitzall part#77761C cup plug. On the earlier ('82-'84) 700's, I also replace the 1-2
shift valve spring with one that is a little stiffer (the gil-younger shift kit has the right spring); the early
versions shifted into 2nd gear way too early. 90% of the time I replace the governor gear; they are always
worn out. This transmission is equipped with a lockup torque converter; Make sure that it is working

Drivetrain Tech
correctly on the test drive; If not, fix it.....don't ignore it, unless you like working on the same transmission,
over, and over, and over and........... Check the sungear shell, carefully, for cracks around the splined area;
They break occasionally. (If it seems that I am jumping around alot, I'm sorry, I am doing this all from
memory as I go.)
Well that's all there is to it. I may have left something out, but I will update if I think of something else. Let
me know if you have a "trick" that is not listed here. I will have the pictures up as soon as I take them (Now
what the heck did I do with my Poloroid?)
* There are other part #'s, as well, but these are the most common
TH700R4 conversion tips

Installing a 700 in a "non-700" application, is not too difficult, and is even easier if the vehicle is GM made
and happens to already have an automatic transmission. It is impossible for me to include every detail that
you may need to know for your intended project, but the following details apply to most installations. I have
installed 700's in many different types of vehicles, ranging from a '34 Ford Coupe, '40 Ford pickup,
numerous 50's Chevy pickups, and my own '57 Studebaker 2dr wagon, to late model Camaros, GM two, and
four-wheel drives, and plenty of other applications, and have used these following suggestions, repeatedly,
to produce what I think is a "sanitary" installation. Keep in mind, as you perform a conversion of any type,
what your overall goals are. I am reminded of a story about a person that wanted to improve his Jeep truck
(he loved to fourwheel), by installing a V8 in place of the original 6 cylinder engine. Nearing completion of
the conversion, he noticed that the front driveshaft would not easily fit in it's original location; It was
interfering with the engine oil pan, so he left the front drive line out, and can no-longer go fourwheeling!
Some improvement!!
Generally, what I want, in any type of conversion, is to IMPROVE the vehicle. I also happen to have great
respect for the engineers that originally designed the vehicle. For the most part, they did a great job
designing the vehicle, making the vehicle safe, reliable, and delivering satisfactory performance, for most
normal applications, and it would seem to me, to be arrogant, on my part, to think that I can, so easily,
improve on what a team of engineers, and plenty of research and development funds were able to do.
With this in mind, do your conversion meticulously;
● Make cooler lines out of New 5/16" (in most cases) steel line, and bend the lines carefully (with a
tube bender), and double flare the ends. Don't use copper line, or fuel hose!
● Use a new, factory type transmission mount, and make a crossmember (if your installation requires
it) that is as close to factory style, as possible.
● Make sure the TV cable is in good condition, and use the factory TV cable brackets (at the

Drivetrain Tech
carburetor), as well as a factory TV hookup on the Carburetor. Make sure that it is adjusted properly.
● Use an original type dipstick tube, and matching stick. If you don't have the original "stuff", buy a
new tube and stick at your local GM dealer.

● Use a torque converter cover. If you don't have one, go out and buy one, again, at the dealer.
● Use a factory type manual control linkage, and hook it up, and adjust it properly.
● Install new U-joints....good ones. I prefer Spicer....And make the driveshaft the proper length; don't
settle for a driveshaft that is "good enough for a test drive, and I will have one made later...."
● Make sure that the flywheel is not bent, and the teeth are in good shape.
● Don't install a shift kit in any 700R4. (This is my own "gut felt recommendation"; some people like
to use shift kits in 700's)

● Make sure the wiring to the TCC(Torque Converter Clutch) circuit is properly done, and verify that
the torque converter does lock-up properly during the test drive.
● Install new torque converter bolts, and use #242 locktite on the threads (the threads are 10mm X 1.5,
don't use the standard 3/8-16 bolts that may have been in your previous transmission's torque
converter)
● Make sure the dowels, in the engine block, extend into the transmission case adequately, and that the
engine block mating surface is clean.

● Take pride in your installation
One question that I am frequently asked: How long is the 700?, and did they make one that would fit a
Buick, Pontiac, Olds (B.P.O.), Cadillac?
The 700 is approximately the same length as a "medium shaft" 350 (6" long tail housing), which came as
standard equipment in many GM trucks in the '70's, which is about 3" longer than the common "short shaft"
350 that came in many GM Cars, and trucks, and the output shaft on the 700 is the same spline as the 350,
as well as the 200 transmission, and the yokes are interchangeable, making for an easy installation in most
GM vehicles. The 700 is only available in the Chevrolet version, and I do not recommend the "adapter
plate" that converts the chevy to the B.P.O. bolt pattern.
Wiring the TCC(Torque Converter Clutch) controls

There are two main controls governing TCC application. First, there are hydraulic controls, that control lock-
up timing, and application, and Second, there are electrical devices that control, and override the hydraulic
controls.
The electrical controls include, a lock-up solenoid, pressure switches, low-vacuum switch, and a brake-
cancel switch.
The following is my recommendations for wiring the lockup circuit in an earlier conversion.

Drivetrain Tech
I recommend running an accessory hot wire (hot only when the key is on), through a normally open brake
cancel switch. This switch will allow current flow, only when it is depressed; The brake pedal depresses the
switch, normally, and releases the switch when the brake is applied. This switch works exactly opposite the
brake light switch, whereas the brake light switch allows current, only when the brake pedal is depressed,
the cancel switch interrupts current when the brake pedal is depressed, thereby unlocking the torque
converter clutch in a panic stop.
From the brake cancel switch, power is routed through the low-vacuum switch (GM part#14014519
interrupting power when the vacuum is low, such as heavy throttle), and connected to the transmission.
Inside the transmission, I normally route power through a 4/3 switch (GM part# 8642346 normally closed),
and then to the solenoid. I use an internally grounded solenoid (GM part#8654123), so there is no need to
run a separate ground circuit. There are other ways to accomplish the same thing, but I feel this is the easiest
way to do it RIGHT!!
Torque Converter Clutch Schematic

Drivetrain Tech
Here's how I interpret the circuit:
● (Upper left)Ckt 39-pink/black wire goes to from +12V (Gauges fuse) to switch on brake pedal
● Ckt 420-Purple goes from brake switch to hot side of TCC Solenoid
● Ckt 422-Tan/Black from gnd side of TCC Solenoid to ECM and pin F of ALDL connector
● In addition, a 4th gear switch and overtemp sensor inside the transmission provide a ground to force
a lockup if in 4th gear and trany fluid temp is over 260F
TCC Disable switch HOW-2

Locate the the switch near the top of the brake pedal arm. It should have a pink/black wire and a purple wire
connected to the switch. Follow the Purple wire and select a good place to splice a (12v) switch into it.
When this switch is in the "off" condition the TCC will not engange at all.
TCC Engaged light HOW-2

Connect a (12v) light between pin "F" on your ALDL connector and the purple wire running from the Brake
pedal switch.

Drivetrain Tech
TCC Forced Engage switch HOW-2

This one is easy, connect a switch between pins "A" and "F" on your ALDL conector.
If you would like all three options wired then you can do the
following:
First you need to find the correct switch.
You want a LIGHTED DPDT switch with a center "off"
position rated at 12v 3a These are tough to find!
The one I used was an automotive type switch that came with
a small mounting bezel.
1. Cut the purple wire from the brake switch and connect
the switch end of the purple wire (B) to terminal #3
2. Connect the other end of the purple wire (A) to
terminal #1 and place a jumper wire from terminal #1
to terminal #5
3. Connect a wire from terminal #4 to pin "F" on the
ALDL connector
4. Connect a wire from terminal #6 to pin "A" on the ALDL connector
5. My switch lamp was connected to terminal #3 and terminal #4. If you use an LED #3 is positive, #4
is neg.
In Operation when the switch is "Up" TCC engagement is

normal.
When the switch is in the center "OFF" position the TCC
is DISENGAGED
When the switch is "Down" the TCC is FORCED
ENGAGED
The light comes on whenever TCC is engaged, forced or not.
Planetary Gearsets
Planetary gearsets have been in use since the earliest automatic transmissions. Planetary gearsets are made
up of three components, constantly in mesh; A sungear, A planetary carrier and planets, and a ring-gear.
When one gear is held stationary, and another gear is rotated, the third is driven at either a reduction , or an
increase in speed, or a rotation in the opposite direction. Today's automatic transmissions are actually using
"compound planetary gearsets" because they are basically two planetary sets that have common parts.

Drivetrain Tech
Typical 3 speed transmissions, use two ringgears, two planetary carriers, and a common sungear (all one
piece, but long enough to mesh with both planetary carriers.) By changing which gears are rotated, and
which gears are "held", we get two different gear reductions (1st gear, and 2nd gear) a reverse, "gear" and a
1:1 ratio (third gear). Devices, known as clutches, and bands, and one-way clutches (sprags or roller
clutches) are what does the "holding". One-way clutches, hold in only one direction, and freewheel in the
other, like the freewheel on ratchet wrench. These sprags allow the planetary gear to be held under
acceleration, but to freewheel under deceleration.
Let's use a typical 3 speed automatic transmission(A TH400, TH350, etc.) to illustrate what happens as the
trans goes through the gears. First, as the transmission is shifted into drive, the forward clutch engages, and
the low one-way clutch holds; You have 1st gear. To shift into second gear, the front, or intermediate band
is applied; the forward clutch is still engaged (to move forward), and the one-way clutch freewheels, giving
you second gear. When shifting to third gear, the direct clutch engages and the band is released, the forward
clutch is engaged, and the one-way clutch is still freewheeling, giving us third gear. For reverse, the forward
clutch is disengaged, but the direct clutch is engaged and the reverse band is applied. These clutches and
bands are used to "hold" the different components of the compound planetary gearset, allowing different
combinations of gears.
Controlling Shift Quality

In automatic transmissions, the Governor, Shift Valves, and Vacuum Modulator, work in unison to select
the proper gear. In light throttle conditions, very little hydraulic pressure is needed to apply the bands and
clutches. As load increases, higher hydraulic pressure is needed to apply the bands and clutches to change
gears.
Automatic transmissions monitor engine load with a TV valve or modulator to get information for shift
timing. The valve body uses this information to adjust the hydraulic pressure, to compensate for varying
engine loads. The pressure regulator valve has a spring "pushing" on one end of the valve, and hydraulic
pressure "pushing" on the other end of the valve. When the hydraulic pressure is high enough to overcome
the spring pressure, the valve moves, and bleeds off the excess pressure.
The Throttle Pressure Valve, or modulator, helps the pressure regulator valve, by varying fluid pressure
depending on engine load. This pressure coming from the modulator, is directed to the pressure regulator
valve, and helps the spring "push" on the valve. This makes the spring seem stiffer, hydraulic pressure must
be higher, to overcome the increased pressure, caused by both the spring and the throttle pressure helping
the spring, before the valve can bleed off the excess pressure.
In this way, hydraulic pressure increases with engine load. By the way, this hydraulic pressure is commonly
referred to as "Main Line Pressure", and it varies, from transmission to transmission, but tends to be around

Drivetrain Tech
50 or 60 PSI at an idle, in neutral, and may go as high as 250 PSI under certain highload conditions. This
accounts for some of the shift-quality-improving characteristics of a modern automatic transmission.
There are other ways, commonly used in conjunction with main line pressure "altering", to improve shift
quality. One way, is to provide a restriction, in line, to "slow down" the application of the friction
components. The fluid must pass through a small hole,or orifice, before applying the friction component,
similar to "pinching" a garden hose, to slow water flow, thereby filling a bucket with water more slowly.
To further cushion the shift, engineers often incorporate Accumulators. An accumulator can be, as simple as
a piston with a spring on one side. When a shift is commanded, hydraulic pressure is routed through an
orifice and into a chamber, acting on one side of the piston (the side of the piston, opposite the spring). This
hydraulic pressure "pushes" on the piston, compressing the spring (on the other side of the piston), and
"absorbing" some of the hydraulic pressure that is also acting on the friction component needed to create the
desired gear change. This acts to "slow" down the application of the friction component, and smooth the
application, and make the gear change less harsh.
Torque Converter Clutch Application

The clutch in a lockup torque converter is quite a bit different from any
"typical" clutch seen in other applications. It is made up of a spring steel, with
clutch lining on the outer diameter of one face, that mates with a corresponding
"flat spot" on the inside of the torque converter housing. The torque converter
housing is directly bolted to the engine flexplate
(some people call it the flywheel), so it is obvious
that the converter housing turns at exactly engine
speed. The spring steel clutch is splined to input
shaft (it is actually splined to the turbine, which is
then splined to the input shaft), so it is also
obvious that the clutch turns at exactly turbine, or
transmission input shaft speed.
Fluid enters the torque converter through the input

shaft, where it is "dumped" in behind the spring
steel clutch, inbetween the clutch, and the converter cover, creating a
highpressure area behind the clutch, forcing the clutch to spring away from the
converter cover, and keeping the converter "unlocked". Fluid then enters the
rest of the converter, leaking past the "gap" between the clutch, and the cover
and does its normal job within the "pump", "turbine", and "stator", before exiting through the hub, and on to
the cooler passage.

Drivetrain Tech
When conditions are right for a "lockup" to occur, fluid is reversed, by the lockup valve; Fluid enters the
converter through the hub area, does it's job within the "pump", "turbine", and "stator", and creates a high
pressure area on the opposite side of the clutch, forcing the clutch against the converter cover. The clutch
material "grabs" the converter cover; The clutch, which is splined to the input shaft, becomes "one" with the
converter cover, allowing no slippage between the two; ....or lockup.
Setting Up a Differential Ring & Pinion
Intro
Setting up a differential is probably one of the most under-rated jobs that a mechanic can tackle. I have seen
many mechanics "slap new bearings in" or "throw a new gear-set in" a rearend, and then take it to our shop
to let one of our technicians "set it up" so it won't make noise. "Setting up" a rearend, involves so much
more than merely replacing parts, and installing them without any regard to the tolerances that the "parts"
must be held to. Proper setup requires patience, cleanliness, and attention to detail.
Some Terms Relating to Differentials

Ring & Pinion gears
The driveshaft is connected to and drives the pinion gear, which in-turn drives the ring gear at a
reduced rate and at a 90 degree angle from the driveshaft. The ring gear is basically connected to the
wheels.
Backlash
This is the term used to describe the "clearance" between the ring & pinion gears and is usually
measured in thousandths-of-an-inch by a dial indicator. Example .008-.012"
Drive / Coast
The drive side of the ring gear is the side of the tooth that is contacted when the vehicle is
accelerating / The coast side is the side of the tooth on the ring gear that is contacted when the
vehicle is decelerating (during engine-braking).

Drivetrain Tech
Pattern
This refers to the tooth contact area of the gearset; In other words, Where the Ring gear and the
Pinion gear "Rub" together.
Preload
The Pinion bearings and Carrier bearings run a little tight, similar to the way a wheel bearing should
be "loaded". The tapered bearings are adjusted to eliminate any play and then they are set a little
tighter, making them a little "hard to turn". This is measured by checking the torque required to turn
the bearings with a dial torque wrench. Example 15 to 25 in.lbs.
Pinion Depth
This is set with "pinion shims" and controls how the pinion contacts the ring gear in relation to the
axle center.
Crush Sleeve
A piece of "pipe" that is used to hold the pinion bearings apart and offer some resistance for the
pinion nut. The pinion nut must be tightened down, crushing the crush sleeve, until proper pinion
preload adjustment is achieved.
Extra Tools Needed For Proper Differential Overhaul

Dial Indicator
●
● Ft.Lb. Torque Wrench
● Dial In.Lb. Torque Wrench (0-50 In. Lb. or so)
● Pullers and/or Press for removing and installing pinion and differential bearings
● Spanner Wrench (for many drop-out carriers)
● Compressed Air, and 1/2" Impact wrench is helpful
Differential Overhaul
Before removing the differential carrier from the housing, a pattern must be taken if the original gearset is to
be used over again, to determine how the gearset contact has been running. This is accomplished by painting

Drivetrain Tech
a number of teeth on the ringgear (both the drive and the coast side) with a nondrying paint compound such
as Persian blue or regular artist's paint in a tube (that's what I use). Then have a friend "load" the carrier by
prying between the differential carrier and the rearend housing, making the pinion yoke hard to turn. Then
turn the pinion yoke with a ratchet slowly and evenly, first in one direction and then the other, through the
painted area of the ringgear. This will show you where the gear teeth are touching each other. The gearset
will "wear" a pattern that may or may not be serviceable. A desirable pattern will be at the same height (or
distance from the Toe) on both the drive and the coast side, and slightly closer to the Toe than the Heal side
(see photo). If the gearset shows a pattern tending towards the "desirable pattern", the gearset may be
reinstalled, but the original pattern must be adhered to; minor changes may be made to pinion depth and/or
backlash to enhance the pattern, but only as long as the final pattern has plenty of contact surface. If the
gears are determined to reusable, check backlash with a dial indicator and note the reading. Consult the
manual for your application and compare with recommended specifications.
Mark the position of the differential bearing caps with a center punch or letter stamp set to insure proper
location and orientation during reassembly. Remove the differential carrier from the housing (it may be a
tight fit due to carrier bearing preload). Note the position of any shims and their location. Remove the pinion
nut (a 1/2" impact wrench is real handy for this, although I have heard of people making a tool to hold the
pinion yoke, but keep in mind that the pinion nut will install with roughly 200 or 250 ft. lbs. of torque), and
tap the pinion out of the housing (protect the threads on the pinion; they can be easily ruined). Remove the
pinion bearing races from the rear-end housing. Remove the carrier bearings from the differential carrier and
the pinion bearings from the pinion gear.
Inspect the rear-end housing closely in the area where the pinion bearing races are pressed in and where the
differential bearing races are "clamped in" by the bearing caps. Are there any signs of the races spinning or
fitting loose? How about on the bearing caps? Check the differential carrier and the pinion gear for signs of
loose fitting bearings or spinning bearings. If the rear-end housing does not check out, a replacement should
be found or the housing may be repaired by a reputable shop such as Lincoln Welding in Sacramento. If the
carrier of the pinion gear are found to be damaged, a replacement should be found.
Install the bearing races into housing with any applicable pinion shim/s, but make sure that there are no
burrs in the housing that might hold the bearing races up off of the bottom of the machined bore (sometimes
burrs are made when removing the old races). Install the bearings onto the differential carrier, and again,
check for burrs on the carrier that might keep the bearing from being driven all the way on. If the ringgear
was removed, check for burrs on both mating surfaces where the ringgear contacts the differential carrier (I
always run a flat wetstone over both surfaces to remove any burrs) and reinstall the ringgear. Torque the
ringgear bolts to specification (you need a manual here; try the library, or e-mail me and I will try to find out
the specifications for your particular application.), and while your at it put some Loctite 271(RED) or
242(BLUE) on the bolts just to make sure. Install the pinion bearing on the pinion gear and don't forget any
applicable pinion shim/s.
Install the pinion gear temporarily with the old crush sleeve (tap on the side of the crush sleeve while it is on
the pinion gear to make it "longer" or "uncrushed"). Put some motor oil or gear oil on the bearings. Install
the outer pinion bearing and the pinion yoke (don't install the new pinion seal at this time). Put some motor
oil on the pinion nut and tighten down until a preload of the proper specification is achieved (I stay on the

Drivetrain Tech
loose side of the specifications. i.e. 15-25 inch pound spec. , I use 15). Install the differential carrier (it
should also be preloaded to specification, so it will have to be tapped in), and torque the bearing caps to
specifications.
Check the backlash and adjust to specification if necessary. Remember how you pattern checked the gears
when you first started? Well, now you get to do it again. If your pattern comes out "desirable", you're almost
done. If not, consult the picture for what changes to make to your setup; Make those changes and reinstall
and pattern check, and consult the picture for what changes to make to your setup; Make those changes and
reinstall and pattern check, and consult the picture for what changes to make . . . . well you get the idea. You
have to have patience. Keep at it until you are satisfied; This is the place where most people fall short of
proper setup, and blame the gear noise on a "noisy set of gears". If the pattern looks good, than there wont
be any excessive noise. Note that all gears make an acceptable amount of noise; Rearends, Transmissions
and Engines all make noise; It is up to the rubber engine, transmission, spring, and body mounts to insulate
those noises from the passengers . . . so don't overlook these items when chasing excessive noises.
After you are satisfied with the pattern, disassemble the rearend and install a new crush sleeve, and
reassemble (don't forget the new pinion seal). Reinstall the old pinion nut with motor oil and tighten until all
play is eliminated in the pinion gear (but not preloaded yet). Remove the pinion nut and clean threads on
pinion gear and new pinion nut with carburetor cleaner, and install nut with Loctite 271(red) or 242(blue)
and tighten down until proper pinion preload is obtained. Install the differential carrier, and torque the
differential bearing caps (it wouldn't hurt to install Loctite on the cap bolts). Pattern check one last time
(hopefully), to make sure that you reinstalled everything properly, check backlash one last time; If within
specification, your done with the setup.
Install the axles, tap the rear cover surface flat (if yours has one). Now, if your cover is a heavy duty one
with stiffening ribs, reinstall with a gasket painted with "brush-on" Aviation Permatex and snug cover bolts
moderately. Otherwise, if your cover is flimsy (or worse . . . a cheap chrome one), install with no gasket and
use Permatex Ultra-Black. If you insist on using regular silicone glue with a gasket (Lord knows why),
install bath-tubs, or caulking around household windows, and let somebody else work on your car!
Transmissions/Converters
Transmission- The TH400 and 4L80E are the most durable, followed by the TH350, TH700R4 and TH200-
4R. With a primarily street car with 500 hp or less (including any nitrous use) I recommend the 700 R4 with
overdrive and using a lockup converter. A TH200-4R can also be used but I would say it's safety limit is
roughly 425hp with a good rebuild as described below. Art Carr says that a high tech rebuilt 200-4R can
take 625 hp. This will give you a comfortable RPM on the highway with plenty of gear for a standing start.
A TH350 can also be used up to 450 hp, but no overdrive. A TH350c is a TH350 which is actually a little
stronger and has a lockup converter for gas mileage on the highway. The main advantage is that the TH350

Drivetrain Tech
is lighter in both recriprocating mass and overall weight and consequently will give you a little quicker time
in the drags. Many of the NHRA Stock Eliminator drivers use a TH350 over the TH400 when they can. The
TH400 is virtually unbreakable but weighs right up there with a ton of bricks. For heavy cars, lots of power,
and nitrous use this is the way to go. The TH400's spinoff, the 4LE80-E (WAY heavier that a TH 400- 250+
lbs with converter) is overdriven and has a lockup converter, and is strong as hell but is costly and must
have a computer to run it. A TH400 can be converted to "switch pitch" which is a torque converter that has
two different stall speeds depending on the position of the switch. Very streetable, but max stall speed
available for a switch pitch converter is about 3200 rpm's in high stall mode. If you need more, get used to a
lot of slippage as your only choice is an inefficient 10 inch or smaller converter on the street. The parts for
this cost about $150 plus converter and are available through Darryl Young. The parts needed are the torque
converter, the front pump, and the input shaft.
Average cost with converter- all performance rebuilt-if you pay to have it done
You can do a LOT better if you do the work yourself.
TH400 - $450 + $200 for 11 in. converter-add $150 for the switch pitch conversion
TH350 - $550 + $200 for 11 in. converter ($250 for 12 in.lockup)
TH700R4 and TH200-4R - $1100 + $150-350 for 12 inch lockup converter, $550 for 9 in. lockup converter
4LE80-E - $2500 (with computer preprogrammed, wiring harness) (what Art Carr sell's 'em for) + $250-550
for a custom converter.
(with this tranny either the GM diesel controller or the Motec engine control computer is needed, plus
whatever deal you can find pricewise on the tranny in the junkyard. These trannys don't need any high tech
rebuild like all the other automatics to be run with 4-600 hp without exploding). More than this, a good
rebuild would be highly recommended...
Newsflash! I just got off the phone with Mr. Gasket and they told me that the ACCEL (aka) Hurst
transmission controller has been discontinued. I was planning to do this swap myself with the Hurst
controller, but it is no more... I don't know who has chips for the GM diesel controller, but I'll find
out and let you know, or if any of you know please e-mail me.
(a non performance rebuilt price varies widely based on core charge and the fact that most tranny shops start
tacking on lots of bills when they hear the word overdrive.)
Rebuilding transmissions- better to have a large amount of quality tools- a dial indicator, feeler gauges, a
pump puller (this you can make) an inch-pounds torque wrench, and an infinite amount of patience. But it
can be done at home. I recommend that you acquire a good transmission manual (the ATSG is a good one).
There are good books on rebuilding that go beyond the factory manual available for the TH400 and TH350
that go deeper in depth in explaning how the rebuild is done. Also, these books detail some hopups for
harder, faster shifts and increased reliability. Art Carr, TCI, Level 10, and B&M are good sources for hopup
parts. Usually,a local tranny shop is usually willing to help you find parts, such as a pump assembly or
shims, saving much time and money over the factory. Try to go when thay aren't busy, and be patient!

Drivetrain Tech
Another good gamble is to purchase complete trannys straight out of the core pile at your friendly local
junkyard. You can get lucky and end up with the parts you need for as little as $20-30.
Strength improvements- On the TH 400, the intermediate sprag is the weak link in the transmission,
failing at about 500! hp. The sprag is about $50-60 and usually requires an early (64-70) drum. I have only
seen those fail when a 4000+ rpm converter and a trans brake is used with slicks. On the TH700R4 and
TH200-4R, the stock pump vanes are brittle and easily break under load. A pump kit is available that
upgrades the vanes to better material and should include a new pump slide spring and if your stock pump is
only a 7 vane unit, you should upgrade to a 10 vane unit. This helps the tranny live by providing a steadier
flow of fluid under pressure. Furthermore, on the TH200-4R, the stock converter spline support is too soft
and will eventually fail, even in a stock application. Art Carr has a rebuild kit for the TH200-4R that
increases the clutch pack count and should be considered mandatory in a performance application. Art also
sells the converter spline support that is made of tougher heat treated steel that will not wear like the stock
one. In the TH350, the main weak point is the intermediate sprag race, which often bites the big one even in
a stock tranny, especially one that is manually shifted often.
Converting an old Chevy to overdrive- Not as hard as you might think. TH200-4R's are about the same
length as a TH350, so with a TH400 crossmember and a little relocation they fit like a glove. Use the
original TH350 or TH400 driveshaft with a TH350 yoke, you may need a special u-joint with smaller cups
that is made by Lakewood for rear axle swaps. The TH200-4R mount is farther towards the rear of the car
than a TH400. If you have a TH350 or the old Super Turbine 300 2-speed that you want to dump, most
older Chevys had a TH400 option at one time where you can get the crossmember from and you will be on
your way (Camaros/Firebirds). Or, on the 67-72 A bodies the stock frame is drilled in different places so
just slide the crossmember back and drill new holes . The driveshaft may be a little short, check before
driving (1/2 inch difference or less). With the TH700R4's, it's a little more complicated. The driveshaft will
be too long in any case, and needs to be shortened. The trans mount is closer to the front of the car than a
TH400 and the crossmember will have to be moved forward and possibly the mounting pad on the
crossmember cut off and rewelded to mount facing forward rather than the back (as is the case with 67-9
Firebirds with the TH400 option.) Also, since every TH700R4 The TH350 and TH400 use a vacuum
modulator for part throttle shift timing and quality regulation, where the TH 200- 4R and TH700R4 use a
TV cable. This cable is very critical- if it is not adjusted right or you don't use one at all, the trans will last
about 30 miles before it blows up. TCI sells a bracket and cable which works well, but is pricey. A stock
cable can be adapted, but the correct angle and pull distance must be maintained or the tranny will fail.
When shopping in the junkyard for a core, remember that newer is better in case of the overdrive trannies.
With TH200-4R's the years to look for are 86-89, and with TH700R4's the years are 88-91. Also, the
horsepower rating that the tranny was originally built for matters- the higher the HP rating, the better the
tranny. For a indicator dial that shows OD, order a 85-88 Monte Carlo SS indicator- It will fit most Chevy
consoles with a little trimming.
Transmission Length
Case to ext. housing Overall length Bellhousing to mount
Powerglide (short tail) 15 ¼ 24 ¼ 19 ½

Drivetrain Tech
Powerglide (long tail) 15 ¼ 27 ½ 20 ½

THM 200, 200C (the 3 speed) 27 5/8 27 5/8 20 1/8
THM 250 21 5/8 27 5/8 20 3/8
THM 350, 350C (short tail) 21 5/8 27 5/8 20 3/8
THM 350, 350C (long tail) 21 5/8 30 5/8 20 3/8
THM 400 (short tail) 24 3/8 28 ¼ 26 ¾
THM 400 (long tail) 24 3/8 34 28
200R4 27 ¾ 27 ¾ 26 7/8
700R4, 4L60, 4L60E 23 3/8 30 ¾ 22 3/8
4L80-E ? 31.5 30.38
TH200-4R notes of interest
● TCI; they say most TH200-4R failures are input shaft, front planetary hub, cast iron splines.
● T200 is one piece case, no separate tail shaft housing, big "boat" pan
● CC Sep 95 · says stock TH200-4R good for about 275 ft-lb · slightly modified versions can take 350-
370 ft-lb
● Art Carr says- TH200-4R's are good to 625 hp, Pat at Level 10 says TH200-4R's are good through
the 10's, faster needs the TH 400.
The rubber mount bolts are M10x1.5 · speedo cable interchanges with TH350, but some factory applications
have a 1 ft. longer extension cable· cable shifter bracket is GM 10026014 · convertor bolts are M10x1.5 x
15mm · use the TH700R4 filter (with the pickup on the bottom of the filter) and two O-rings on the neck of
the filter as the filter is prone to drawing air on a hard launch. The filter is a tight fit, you have to snug the
bolts in the pan to get it to fit correctly. This problem only seems to be apparent on higher HP cars. Mike
Kurtz recommends using O2 sensor safe rtv, and running a bead around the crimp of the filter as this crimp
sometimes leaks where the metal crimps around the plastic... Mike also recommends running the tranny 1
pint over full.. not enough to foam, but enough to keep the filter submerged. Mike said the danger of the
TH700R4 filter is if the clearance between the opening and the pan bottom is too small... IE: the ridges are
smaller on some brands of filters... then the trans self destructs due to total loss of fluid pressure. And the
filter plugs up faster as sediment doesn’t sit on the bottom of the pan and now gets sucked into the filter..
Small
GM Vehicle Drivetrain Suspension Tires &
Stock SS File Engine Tech Block
Codes Tech Tech Wheels
Info
Emissions Useful How
Street/Strip SBC Engine Swaps Bracket Racing Big Blocks
Legal SBC Formulas To's

Drivetrain Tech

TRANSMICION 700-r4 PDF

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

TRANSMICION 700-r4 PDF

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Transmission Identification & Decoding

Transmission Identification & Decoding

Transmissions are marked and identified by:

Automatic Transmission Identification & Description

Automatic transmission types are generally id'ed by their pan shape.

Automatic Transmission Description & Usage

file:///C|/My%20Documents/Transmission%20Identification%20&%20Decoding.htm (1 of 6) [4/11/2004 11:59:15 AM]

Automatic Transmission Identification & Decoding

Location of source serial number

file:///C|/My%20Documents/Transmission%20Identification%20&%20Decoding.htm (2 of 6) [4/11/2004 11:59:15 AM]

Pre-67 Example: C213N - (C = Cleveland Powerglide, February 13, Night Shift)

Month code: (NOTICE this is NOT in alphabetic order)

Manual Transmission Identification & Description

Manual Transmission Eyeballing

Muncie (left) Saginaw (center) Borg Warner (right)

file:///C|/My%20Documents/Transmission%20Identification%20&%20Decoding.htm (3 of 6) [4/11/2004 11:59:15 AM]

To quickly finger what you have, notice in the above picture:

Further Muncie identification

Muncie 4 speed spline, groove and tooth count characteristics.

file:///C|/My%20Documents/Transmission%20Identification%20&%20Decoding.htm (4 of 6) [4/11/2004 11:59:15 AM]

Muncie 3 speed Manual Muncie 4 speed manual transmissions

Plant Type Prefix Plant Type Prefix

file:///C|/My%20Documents/Transmission%20Identification%20&%20Decoding.htm (5 of 6) [4/11/2004 11:59:15 AM]

Muncie 3 speed and Overdrive M Toledo Turbo Hydramatic Y

Last updated: 6/4/1998

Return to Main Page

© 1997 - 2002 North Georgia Classic Camaro (tm)

file:///C|/My%20Documents/Transmission%20Identification%20&%20Decoding.htm (6 of 6) [4/11/2004 11:59:15 AM]

4L60 (700-R4) Diagnosis Fundamentals

http://www.sethirdgen.org/tranny.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:29:21 PM]

http://www.sethirdgen.org/tranny.htm (2 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:29:21 PM]

[TECH INDEX] [HOME]

http://www.sethirdgen.org/tranny.htm (3 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:29:21 PM]

Technical Resource Database

Frequently Asked Thirdgen Questions (FAQ)

Reading "Trouble Codes"

Understanding VATS (PassKey)

The Lowdown on EGR Part I

Diagnosisng 700-R4 Fundamentals

Shopping for TPI conversion parts

Third Gen Performance Data

Rear Axle Information

Third Generation F-body Production Numbers

http://www.sethirdgen.org/trd.htm (1 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:31:06 PM]

Box your LCA's

Install a Wonder Bar

GM 10-bolt build-up Part I

GM 10-bolt build-up Part II

GM 10-bolt Part III (installing it)

Install a T56 transmission

Installing White Faced Gauges

Set Minimum Air (TPI Engines)

Replace your Vbelts with a Serpentine setup

Replace an A/C compressor shaft seal (requires Java)

Siamese/Port your TPI base

Swap an LT1 intake onto your SBC!

Install a 3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor

Replace your 100 amp alternator w/ a whopping 140 Amp!

http://www.sethirdgen.org/trd.htm (2 of 3) [4/10/2004 11:31:06 PM]

Replace your broken Air Dam

Fix clearcoat scratches NEW!!!

Install a Strut Tower Brace

Replace a Convertible Top NEW!!!