Professional Documents
Culture Documents
This is to declare that the FAD – 606”A case study on task and its
completion by “INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING ’’ submitted by ABDUL MALIK
G B (17PLS86001) in partial fulfilment of the requirement of degree of bachelor of science
in fashion and apparel design, is based on the result of studies carried out by him/her in
the department of fashion and apparel design, Bangalore city college, Bangalore. Under
the guidance of Mrs. Neethi G.S. The project or any part of this thereof has not been
previously submitted for any other degree of any other degree of any university.
ABDUL MALIK G B
Index:
1. COMPNY PROFILE
3. MERCHINDISING
5. SAMPLING
6. PATTREN MAKING
7. CUTTING SECTION
8. SEWING SECTION
9. WASHING
Since its modest beginning in 1993, Indian designs exports Pvt ltd has grown considerably and
cemented its position as trusted and preferred vender to well-known companies around the world .
in addition to serving the apparel manufacturing needs of major international corporations, the
company has also partnered with many smaller clients around the world, and has grown with them
over the years .
Indian design Designs currently employs around 10,000 people in total , and is capable of
production up to two million pieces per month .These Products encompass a range of casual
Garments for men , women and children ,including shirts, bottom and toops.
MISSION :
To be one of the best managed apparel companies, maintaining the highest standards in all
that they do .
MANAGEMENT PHILOSOPHY :
A well established workforce creates much more better working atmosphere , understands systems
better , leads to higher productivity.
OBJECTIVES:
STRENGTHS :
9 MODERN SELF CONTAINED manufacturing units with state of the art sewing facilities.
6,000+ machines to handle all types of sewing opertions.
Workforce of 10,000+ and growing .
Production capacity 1.8 million pices/month.
CLIENTS:
ADIDAS
Banana republic
Benetton
Columbia sportswear
Decathlon
Espirt
Fat Face
GAP
H&M
Mother care
Old Navy
Quicksilver
Ralph Lauren White stuff
The UK is one of their biggest markets, and they always look for new customers there .
Dickies is one of companys won production house and identity is compnies won brand
INTRODUCTION
The aim of this internship program of industrial training is to expose students to the real work
environment experience and at the same time, to gain the knowledge through hands on
observation and job execution. It helps students to relate their theoretical knowledge with its
application in the manufacturing industry and also develop the skills, ethics, communication
Objectives
The main objective of this internship is to learn about the functioning of the export
of the industry their functions and the flow and mode of their work.
Other objective of this internship is taking new challenges and to learn , improve and
To build the strength, team work spirit and confidence in the student.
To know and learn about the responsibilities and work of the different sections of the
industry.
Merchandizing department
2. Sampling
3. Lab dips
Sampling Department
Sampling is a very important process for an apparel industry. For the
confirmation of an export order, sampling plays a very important role.
According to the condition of the sample made, buyer decides whether to give
the order or not. Buyers require different samples at different stages of
the process.
R&D
After the Sealer Sample is received from the buyer, the Production File is made
containing the following:
• Tech Pack
• Approved Pattern
• PP Sample
• Measurement chart
• Fabric & trims required
File is sent to the Sampling (R&D) Department of the production unit. The unit
produces two samples in the base size using the actual fabric and trims. If the
unit requires any adjustments in making the sample, it informs the Head Office
and the adjustments are incorporated in the CAD patterns.
Sampling of garments is given great importance in the apparel industry. Sampling
includes details like a product/style code or a reference number, colour
specifications, kind of fabric, composition, description, quantity, and details of
embroidery, buttons, zippers, or any other sort of accessories used.
Proto/design sample: This kind of sample is made in the starting stages after a
buyer approaches the company. This sample is made by taking all the
specification details from the buyer and it is sent to the buyer for initial approval
of the order and then further samples are made after the approval as per the buyer
requirement. The proto sample is made with the available fabric and trims in the
company and is done just to show the buyer the basic look they have asked for.
Fit sample: This is one of the samples almost every buyer asks for. As we know
that size is one of the very important aspects in the garment industry buyer asks
for the fit sample to know if the manufacturers are following the measurements
given by the buyer. This is also done with the available fabric of that kind. This
mainly signifies the size of garment.
PP Sample: The pre production sample is done before the bulk production is
started. This is done by using the actual fabric and trims. Once the buyer confirms
the order and gives ok production order then all the fabric required for production
will be stocked up and is started. If the buyer rejects the PP sample then it has to
be remade and sent to the buyer for approval.
After the approval of PP sample the production file will be sent to the production
unit and further samples will be made in the production unit.
Size set sample: After approval of fit sample, size set sample is required by
buyer. Indeed, this type of sample requires when any significant correction is
necessary on fit sample. Before bulk production this is used as final for
measurement and styling issue. Different sizes will be graded keeping the
standard pattern as reference. sizes like xs, s, m, l, xl, xxl etc as per buyers need.
GPT sample: Garments Performance Test (GPT) or lab test sample is very
important for each buyer as well as vendors. The testing laboratory tests this
sample and gives a test report where product harmful chemical, safety issue and
compliance issue is maintained.
Top/inline sample: This sample is taken from the first batch production garments
directly from the lane and is sent to the buyer for approval.
Reference sample/counter sample: These are the sample which are made as
same as the other samples. In these one will be sent to the buyer and one will be
kept the same sample for the company reference. By getting acceptance from the
buyer the work can be proceeded according to the reference sample.
Note: All the samples require fabric, Trims, Patterns, Tech Pack and
measurement chart to be produced. All fabric and trims used in the samples
undergo the process of preshrinking before use.
Apart from Internal Size Set Sample, all samples are sent to the buyer for
approval. If the buyer requires some changes in the sample at any stage before
PP Sample, it sends the comments in the revised tech pack. After incorporating
all the changes, the sample is sent to the buyer again.
CAD Department:
CAD is the contraction which stands for Computer Aided Design. This term means different
things to different people involved in designing, manufacturing and mechanical engineering.
CAD or Computer Aided Design has brought a revolution in the Textile industry, especially
in apparel industry. The time consuming and cumbersome process of textile designing has been
made easier by CAD. Now thoughtful and innovative designs are available to the textile
designers and textile manufacturers at the click of a mouse.
Application of CAD in apparel industry
In CAD section at first the pattern put on the digitizer to take clear image of the pattern
part inside the CPU.
After making all required size patterns using the software pattern parts are aligned in
the marker. Then it is sent to CPU of CAM section for approval and checking the length
& width of marker and pattern parts alignment.
After getting approval from CAM section then printer is used to print out the whole real
marker then this marker as well as mini marker are provided to the CAM section for
cutting the fabric
Cutting department:
Fabric inspection:
When the fabrics are received, it needs to be checked, because, faulty fabrics can be
supplied from dyeing and finishing. But the cutting section has to check it. Otherwise the end
products will be faulty. For this, the fabric is being inspected by the quality inspector of the
cutting section. They check the fabric fully and find out the faults. Then mark it so that, these
faulty portion of the fabric can be rejected during spreading and cutting. Then the fabric is
being stored for relaxation.
Fabric relaxation:
When the fabric comes from the mill, the fabric remains a slightly hot. In dryer, setter
and compactor heat is applied on fabric. So moisture is removed from the fabric and it is not in
actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in normal temperature and pressure for a certain
time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and regains its original nature. This
process is called fabric relaxation. Another cause of fabric relaxation is to maintain the
dimensional stability of produced garments. When the fabric is being processed in different
finishing machines, it goes under certain heat and pressure to give it proper shape. But when
the heat and pressure is being withdrawn, the shape may change. So, if the dimension is became
stabilized before cutting, no chance of strain in garments. So relaxation is very necessary before
cutting.
Relaxation period:
Fabric relaxation is performed for a certain period. This time is varied from fabric to
fabric. But the minimum time of relaxation is twelve (12) hours. This time also may vary
according to the buyer’s recommendation.
After testing the fabric, if it is seemed that, the fabric quality is ok, and then test cutting
is done. Here a little amount of fabric is cut and sewed in sewing section. Then the garments
are compared with the approved sample. Sewing allowance and other measurements are also
observed. If everything is ok, then the approval is given and the fabric is ready for bulk
production.
Marker making:
For industrial garments preparation, marker making is a very important chapter for
highest usage of fabric and for lowest wastage of fabric. In divine textiles limited there is a
strong team working for marker making in cutting section of each floor. This is a process which
is performed to draw the pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting. This may be done by
drawing the pattern pieces on the fabric directly or by drawing the pattern pieces on a thin
marker paper and then placement the paper onto the fabric lay. So, we can define the marker
as bellow. Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular style of garments in such a way that, fabric wastage would be least. The
representation or drawing of the arrangement of identified garment pattern relevant to the
cutting of a batch material. The marker is placed on the material and provides guideline for
cutting. Marker may be on fabric or held in computer data files. Marker width is equal to the
minimum fabric width and its length depends on the no of pattern sizes that will be drawn.
Before the marker making, some preparatory processes would be followed. In divine textiles
limited these processes are followed strictly:
Marking grain line: before marker making, the grain line of pattern and fabric must be
marked.
Fabric measurement: before marker planning, the fabric must be measured carefully.
Because, marker width is relevant to the minimum fabric width.
Fabric faults: fabric faults would be also under consideration. In a fabric roll, where
any faults found, that points must be avoided for quality production and to least the
fabric wastage.
Cutting table: marker planner should consider the cutting table length before making
marker. Marker length must be less than the cutting table length.
Computerized marking is done because:
More suitable for large scale production than the manual method.
Marker efficiency is higher than manual.
Least wastage of fabric.
Low production cost.
Low labor cost.
If required, print out of the marker could be got.
Grading of the pattern could be done automatically.
Few time consumption.
Marker can be prepared quickly than manual.
Fabric spreading:
The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric type, spreading
equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the firm’s quality standards. Spreading
requires a flat, smooth surface. If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also
must be level. Spreading and cutting may be done on the same surface, but automated cutting
often requires spreading and cutting to be done in adjacent but separate locations.
Spreading and cutting surfaces are available in standard widths that correspond to fabric width.
Narrow fabric can be spread on a wider table. A spreading surface needs to be about 10 inches
wider than the fabric. Spreading tables may have tracks or rails placed along one or both sides
of a tabletop or just a few inches off the floor. This track helps guide and control the spreader
as it moves up and down the length of the table. With some types of equipment, the table tracks
are geared to synchronize the movement of the spreading machine with fabric unrolling, in
order to regulate tension.
Spreading tables may also be very specialized for certain types of fabric and cutting equipment.
Pin tables have rows of pins located below the surface that can be extended through slats to
hold fabric in a precise location for accurate matching of pattern repeats. Vacuum tables are
used to compress lay-up and prevent shifting or movement during cutting. A spread is covered
with a plastic film that forms a seal over the lay-up when a vacuum is applied. A lay-up of
quilted fabric can be compressed as much as 75 percent when the vacuum is used. This allows
more plies in the lay-up and restricts the movement of slippery fabrics for more accurate
cutting.
Cutting equipment may be moved to a lay-up as another lay-up is prepared further down the
table, or fabric can be spread on one surface and then transferred to the cutting surface. Air
flotation tables, when activated; allow easy movement of a lay-up onto an adjacent cutting area.
A layer of air between the table surface and the bottom layer of paper reduces friction and
allows a lay-up to be moved easily without putting stress on the fabric or the operators.
Spreading tables with conveyor zed surfaces carry the fabric to the cutting machine so that no
time is wasted. Ideally one lay-up can be cut while is being spread. Conveyors may be used
with computerized cutting systems, large die presses, and laser cutters.
Fabric cutting:
After completing the fabric spreading then the fabric cutting is started. To cut out pattern pieces
of garment components as per exact dimension of the patterns from a fabric lay is called fabric
cutting. The term fabric cutting is only applicable for garments manufacturing technology.
Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the
marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting
method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and
attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting
accuracy.
During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces temperature in the
blade; the temperature may be up to 300°c. If the fabric contains synthetic fibers, e.g. Nylon,
polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may result in the fabric. As because most of
those fibers melt at around 250°c. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the
fabric wastage moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be
problem of irritation during use of garments.
To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken
Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be
capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric
cutting. Whatever the cutting method is used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that
the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise
the garments produced will be defective.
Sticker tagging:
After complete the cutting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The sticker tagging is an
important part in this section. Due to fabric numbering or batching the sticker is tag on the
cutting fabric surface.
Bundling:
After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garments components in stack form
is shorted out as per size and colour. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number
on each pattern.
When sorting / bundling are complete, all the garment components are sending to the sewing
section.
Re-cutting panels:
Re-cutting is done for garment components that require to be replaced in bundles. Re-cutting
requests are received from the sewing department for defective garment parts. Re-cutting is
also done for block panels cut for the printing and embroidery processes. After receiving
garment panels from the printer or embroiderer, these panels are reshaped.
Fusing in garment components is done to stiffen parts of a garment. If needed, fusing is done
at the cutting section (e.g. fusing of the collar and cuff components of formal shirts).
Fusing process is one kinds of alternative method of fabric joining which is vastly used to
attach the interlining. At present, apparel manufacturing cannot be imagined without fusing
process.
5.
Sewing department
In the apparel industry or clothing industry, sewing section is the main department, considered as
heart of apparel industry. When all the garments are complete to cut in the cutting section, all of these
cutting parts are sending to sewing department for making garment. In this section different cutting
parts are joining together with the help of different types of sewing machine, threads and needle. To
complete the perfect garment easily and timely Floor in-charge always maintains a working
procedure. Working procedure is also called as process flow chart of sewing department in the
garments industry.
1. Style Analysis
The line supervisor analyzes the garment construction of the style to be loaded to the line. He
calculates the machine requirement for the style, based on the garment construction.
Line supervisors calculate the estimated cost per operation. In the piece-rate-production
system, the supervisor sets piece rates for stitching operations. Those factories that have
industrial engineering departments calculate direct labor costs based on the standard allowed
minutes (SAM) to produce a garment.
5. Stitching garments
The sewing department stitches garments and makes clothes. Operators sew garments using
different types of sewing machines. An operator can be given single or multiple operations to
sew.
6. Balancing the assembly line
To get maximum production from the line, line supervisors balance line by adding additional
operator, or by clubbing operations. Read this article to learn about line balancing.
7. Marking parts
Marking is done on the garment component needed to point a position from where stitching is
to be done. Helpers mark on garment parts as per process requirement by using marking
chalk and magic marker.
Most apparel manufacturers believe that the best way to be efficient and achieve economy of
scale is by mass production. The bundle system enables manufacturers to gain economies of
scale. The bundle system, often referred to as the traditional garment production system, has
been widely used by garment manufacturers for several decades. The bundle system is a
dedicated system comprising cut parts, tied into bundles, to complete one or more sections of
an apparel product.
The bundle system of apparel production consists of garment parts needed to complete a
specific operation or garment component. Bundles of garments are assembled in the cutting
room where cut parts are matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets. The
bundles are moved to the sewing room and given to the garment operator who is scheduled to
complete the operation.
PBS is a variation to the bundle system. The main characteristics of the systems are one
worker with a single skill at a single operation, no interaction between operations, piece rate
compensation, maximization of productivity of individual operators, need for extra spaces for
material storage, straight lined equipment layout, and manual material movement in large
batches. The system helps operators to make more units of garments at faster speeds, with
high productivity but with more quality problems. To stabilize the workflow, higher levels of
WIP add to production costs, not value, and lead to longer lead times. In these systems, the
difference between actual run time and total manufacturing throughput time is significant.
The success of PBS depends on how the production system is set up and used in a plant.
Finishing department
In the apparel industry, finishing is the last steps of garment manufacturing or
assembling the operation are performed. After making complete stitched garments
by sewing section, these are passed in finishing department for ironing, folding, poly
packing, cartoning to get attractive appearance. All types of garments finishing
activities are done here.
↓
Initial quality check
↓
Washing
↓
Button attached
↓
Tread trimming
↓
Ironing/pressing (inside)
↓
Quality inspection (inside) process wise
↓
Ironing / pressing (outside)
↓
Quality inspection (outside) process wise
↓
Re-pressing
↓
Inspection overall (out looks)
↓
Accessories attached
↓
Folding
↓
Shade sorting
↓
Poly packing
↓
Quality audit
↓
Prepare a packing list
↓
Assorting
↓
Carton pack
↓
Final inspection
↓
Record the documents
Washing:
For wash garments, 100% check is required after receiving the garments from the sewing
department. Defective garments should be rectified and reject pieces should be sorted out. If
there are any faults like oil marks, stains, other dust and spots then garment washing must be
needed. Some spots are removed by using spot remover and dust and stains are removed by
using machine wash inside the finishing section.
Button attached:
Button, button holes, snap button, eyelets are attached on garment in finishing section.
Tread trimming:
Garment uncut treads are trimmed by helper in finishing section. Otherwise it creates major
or minor defects in garment.
Ironing/pressing (inside):
To remove unwanted wrinkles or crease mark, garments are pressed by using steam iron. For
getting actual garment measurement vacuum tables are used for garment ironing.
Re-pressing:
When all the quality (like inside and outside) inspection is complete then garments are placed
for re-pressing.
Accessories attached:
All kinds of garments accessories like hang tag, price tag, barcode etc are attached here.
Folding:
Garments are folded here as following the buyer’s instruction.
Shade sorting:
Quality inspector checks the color shade sorting on garments. They calculate a shade number
for each sample based on how close its color shade is to the standard.
Poly packing:
After folding and color shade sorting garments are poly packed here as per buyer
requirements.
Quality audit:
Quality audit can be performed in the sewing section as well as in the finishing section. It is
very effective quality control activity to achieve the quality target. Quality audit is done prior
to final inspection.
Assorting:
Before cartoning finishing in-charge must confirm and follow the color and size wise
assorting system.
Carton pack:
Here all the garments should pack to send the garments safely in to the buyer.
Final inspection:
If all the above processes are perfectly done, then apparel manufacturers are organized pre-
shipment or final inspection on garments. After finished the garments, factory top
management, merchandiser, production manager, QC, Finishing inspector and buyers
representatives are to do this final inspection.
Washing department
Garments Wash:
The garment was is a technology in the garment trade. Normally washing mean cleaning
something. But in the garment trade, only cleaning of garments is not the garment
wash. Garment washing is a technology which is applied to change or modify the outlook,
appearance, comfortability, and design of garments. Garment washing is applied on solid dyed
garments or solid printed fabric. Now I would like to discuss the different types and objects of
wash in the garment industry.
2. Pigment wash
3. Enzyme wash
4. Stone wash
5. Bleach wash
6. Enzyme-stone wash
7. Bleach-stone wash
8. Acid wash
9. Stone wash
1. Sand blasting
2. Whisking or wrinkling
3. Hand scraping