ORGANISATION STUDY OF INDIAN DESIGNS

BANGALORE UNIVERSITY

BANGLORE CITY COLLAGE

KALLYAN NAGAR

REPORT OF INTERNSHIP TRAINING

SUBMITTED BY- ABDUL MALIK G B

REG. NO. – 17PLS86001

Index:

1. COMPNY PROFILE

2. EVOLUTION OF FASHION INDUSTRY

3. MERCHINDISING

4. FABRIC SECTION AND INSPECTION

5. SAMPLING

6. PATTREN MAKING

7. CUTTING SECTION

8. SEWING SECTION

9. WASHING

10. FINISHING SECTION

Company Profile:

Since its modest beginning in 1993, Indian designs exports Pvt ltd has grown considerably
and cemented its position as trusted and preferred vender to well-known companies around
the world . in addition to serving the apparel manufacturing needs of major international
corporations, the company has also partnered with many smaller clients around the world, and
has grown with them over the years .

Indian design Designs currently employs around 10,000 people in total , and is capable
of production up to two million pieces per month .These Products encompass a range of
casual Garments for men , women and children ,including shirts, bottom and toops.

MISSION :

To be one of the best managed apparel companies, maintaining the highest standards
in all that they do .

MANAGEMENT PHILOSOPHY :

A well established workforce creates much more better working atmosphere , understands
systems better , leads to higher productivity.

OBJECTIVES:

 Modernization, expansion and technology up gradation to achieve international

standards of excellence
 Cost control in areas of operation
 Motivation of employees towards the goals

STRENGTHS :

 9 MODERN SELF CONTAINED manufacturing units with state of the art sewing
facilities.
 6,000+ machines to handle all types of sewing opertions.
 Workforce of 10,000+ and growing .
  Production capacity 1.8 million pices/month.

CLIENTS:

 ADIDAS
 Banana republic
 Benetton
 Columbia sportswear
 Decathlon
 Espirt
 Fat Face
 GAP
 H&M
 Mother care
 Old Navy
 Quicksilver
 Ralph Lauren White stuff

The UK is one of their biggest markets, and they always look for new customers
there .

Dickies is one of companys won production house and identity is compnies won brand

INTRODUCTION

AIM OF THE INTERNSHIP

The aim of this internship program of industrial training is to expose students to the real work
environment experience and at the same time, to gain the knowledge through hands on
observation and job execution. It helps students to relate their theoretical knowledge with its
application in the manufacturing industry and also develop the skills, ethics, communication
and management qualities in students.

Objectives

 The main objective of this internship is to learn about the functioning of the export house
and the working of various departments particularly merchandising, production,
sampling of the apparel industry and earning knowledge about the different departments
of the industry their functions and the flow and mode of their work.
 Other objective of this internship is taking new challenges and to learn , improve and
develop new skills of the apparel field.
 To build the strength, team work spirit and confidence in the student.
 This program will increase student earning potential upon graduation.
 To know and learn about the responsibilities and work of the different sections of the
industry.

ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENTS IN APPAREL INDUSTRY:

 Merchandizing department

Merchandising is a important part of marketing which involved in marketing of a particular

production. Merchandiser is the interface between buyer & exporter. He is the responsible from
order analysis to shipment. So merchandising is the very valuable department in the Apparel
industry. Merchandising is the department which mediates marketing and production
departments.

The main responsibilities of merchandisers are:

1. Internal & external communications

2. Sampling

3. Lab dips

4. Accessories & trims

5. Preparing internal order sheets

6. Preparing purchase orders

7. Advising and assisting production

8. Advising quality department about quality level

9. Mediating production and quality department

10. Giving shipping instruction and following shipping

11. Helping documentation department

12. Taking responsibility for inspections

13. Following shipment

 Sampling Department

Sampling is a very important process for an apparel industry. For the confirmation of
an export order, sampling plays a very important role. According to the condition of the
sample made, buyer decides whether to give the order or not. Buyers require different samples
at different stages of the process.

R&D
After the Sealer Sample is received from the buyer, the Production File is made containing the
following:
• Tech Pack
• Approved Pattern
• PP Sample
• Measurement chart
• Fabric & trims required
File is sent to the Sampling (R&D) Department of the production unit. The unit produces two
samples in the base size using the actual fabric and trims. If the unit requires any adjustments
in making the sample, it informs the Head Office and the adjustments are incorporated in the
CAD patterns.

Sampling of garments is given great importance in the apparel industry. Sampling includes
details like a product/style code or a reference number, colour specifications, kind of fabric,
composition, description, quantity, and details of embroidery, buttons, zippers, or any other sort
of accessories used.

The types are:

1. Proto or design sample

2. Fit sample
3. PP sample
4. Size set sample
 5. GPT sample
6. Top sample/inline sample
7. Shipment sample
8. Reference sample or Counter sample

Usually 2 sets of any of the samples are made, one for the manufacturing company and the other
for the buyer.

Proto/design sample: This kind of sample is made in the starting stages after a buyer
approaches the company. This sample is made by taking all the specification details from the
buyer and it is sent to the buyer for initial approval of the order and then further samples are
made after the approval as per the buyer requirement. The proto sample is made with the
available fabric and trims in the company and is done just to show the buyer the basic look they
have asked for.

Fit sample: This is one of the samples almost every buyer asks for. As we know that size is
one of the very important aspects in the garment industry buyer asks for the fit sample to know
if the manufacturers are following the measurements given by the buyer. This is also done with
the available fabric of that kind. This mainly signifies the size of garment.

PP Sample: The pre production sample is done before the bulk production is started. This is
done by using the actual fabric and trims. Once the buyer confirms the order and gives ok
production order then all the fabric required for production will be stocked up and is started. If
the buyer rejects the PP sample then it has to be remade and sent to the buyer for approval.

After the approval of PP sample the production file will be sent to the production unit and
further samples will be made in the production unit.

The following samples will be made in the production department:

Size set sample: After approval of fit sample, size set sample is required by buyer. Indeed,
this type of sample requires when any significant correction is necessary on fit sample. Before
bulk production this is used as final for measurement and styling issue. Different sizes will be
graded keeping the standard pattern as reference. sizes like xs, s, m, l, xl, xxl etc as per buyers
need.
GPT sample: Garments Performance Test (GPT) or lab test sample is very important for
each buyer as well as vendors. The testing laboratory tests this sample and gives a test report
where product harmful chemical, safety issue and compliance issue is maintained.

Top/inline sample: This sample is taken from the first batch production garments directly
from the lane and is sent to the buyer for approval.

Shipment sample: Shipment sample is needed after completing final inspection, when
goods are ready for the shipment. It is a sample that reflects what buyers will receive down to
folding, tagging, bagging, labeling and final packaging included.

Reference sample/counter sample: These are the sample which are made as same as the
other samples. In these one will be sent to the buyer and one will be kept the same sample for
the company reference. By getting acceptance from the buyer the work can be proceeded
according to the reference sample.

Note: All the samples require fabric, Trims, Patterns, Tech Pack and measurement chart to be
produced. All fabric and trims used in the samples undergo the process of preshrinking before
use.
Apart from Internal Size Set Sample, all samples are sent to the buyer for approval. If the
buyer requires some changes in the sample at any stage before PP Sample, it sends the
comments in the revised tech pack. After incorporating all the changes, the sample is sent to
the buyer again.

CAD Department:

CAD is the contraction which stands for Computer Aided Design. This term means different
things to different people involved in designing, manufacturing and mechanical engineering.
CAD or Computer Aided Design has brought a revolution in the Textile industry, especially
in apparel industry. The time consuming and cumbersome process of textile designing has been
made easier by CAD. Now thoughtful and innovative designs are available to the textile
designers and textile manufacturers at the click of a mouse.
 Application of CAD in apparel industry

Working Sequence of CAD Section in Apparel Industry

Receiving of pattern parts

↓
Taking the image of pattern in CPU by digitizer
↓
Modernizing of all pattern parts by the software
↓
Aligning all size pattern parts in the marker by the software
↓
Completing the marker
↓
Taking approval from CAM section
 ↓
Bringing out the marker through plotter.

Procedure of CAD Section:

 In CAD section at first the pattern put on the digitizer to take clear image of the pattern
part inside the CPU.
 After making all required size patterns using the software pattern parts are aligned in
the marker. Then it is sent to CPU of CAM section for approval and checking the length
& width of marker and pattern parts alignment.
 After getting approval from CAM section then printer is used to print out the whole real
marker then this marker as well as mini marker are provided to the CAM section for
cutting the fabric

Cutting department:

Fabric inspection:

When the fabrics are received, it needs to be checked, because, faulty fabrics can be
supplied from dyeing and finishing. But the cutting section has to check it. Otherwise the end
products will be faulty. For this, the fabric is being inspected by the quality inspector of the
cutting section. They check the fabric fully and find out the faults. Then mark it so that, these
faulty portion of the fabric can be rejected during spreading and cutting. Then the fabric is being
stored for relaxation.

Fabric relaxation:

When the fabric comes from the mill, the fabric remains a slightly hot. In dryer, setter
and compactor heat is applied on fabric. So moisture is removed from the fabric and it is not in
actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in normal temperature and pressure for a certain
time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and regains its original nature. This
process is called fabric relaxation. Another cause of fabric relaxation is to maintain the
dimensional stability of produced garments. When the fabric is being processed in different
finishing machines, it goes under certain heat and pressure to give it proper shape. But when
the heat and pressure is being withdrawn, the shape may change. So, if the dimension is became
stabilized before cutting, no chance of strain in garments. So relaxation is very necessary before
cutting.

Relaxation period:

Fabric relaxation is performed for a certain period. This time is varied from fabric to
fabric. But the minimum time of relaxation is twelve (12) hours. This time also may vary
according to the buyer’s recommendation.

Test cutting & approval:

After testing the fabric, if it is seemed that, the fabric quality is ok, and then test cutting
is done. Here a little amount of fabric is cut and sewed in sewing section. Then the garments
are compared with the approved sample. Sewing allowance and other measurements are also
observed. If everything is ok, then the approval is given and the fabric is ready for bulk
production.

Marker making:

For industrial garments preparation, marker making is a very important chapter for
highest usage of fabric and for lowest wastage of fabric. In divine textiles limited there is a
strong team working for marker making in cutting section of each floor. This is a process which
is performed to draw the pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting. This may be done by
drawing the pattern pieces on the fabric directly or by drawing the pattern pieces on a thin
marker paper and then placement the paper onto the fabric lay. So, we can define the marker as
bellow. Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a
particular style of garments in such a way that, fabric wastage would be least. The representation
or drawing of the arrangement of identified garment pattern relevant to the cutting of a batch
material. The marker is placed on the material and provides guideline for cutting. Marker may
be on fabric or held in computer data files. Marker width is equal to the minimum fabric width
and its length depends on the no of pattern sizes that will be drawn.

Preparations of marker making:

Before the marker making, some preparatory processes would be followed. In divine textiles
limited these processes are followed strictly:

 Marking grain line: before marker making, the grain line of pattern and fabric must be
marked.
 Fabric measurement: before marker planning, the fabric must be measured carefully.
Because, marker width is relevant to the minimum fabric width.
 Fabric faults: fabric faults would be also under consideration. In a fabric roll, where any
faults found, that points must be avoided for quality production and to least the fabric
wastage.
 Cutting table: marker planner should consider the cutting table length before making
marker. Marker length must be less than the cutting table length.
Computerized marking is done because:
 More suitable for large scale production than the manual method.
 Marker efficiency is higher than manual.
 Least wastage of fabric.
 Low production cost.
 Low labor cost.
 If required, print out of the marker could be got.
 Grading of the pattern could be done automatically.
 Few time consumption.
 Marker can be prepared quickly than manual.

Fabric spreading:

The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric type, spreading
equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the firm’s quality standards. Spreading
requires a flat, smooth surface. If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also must
be level. Spreading and cutting may be done on the same surface, but automated cutting often
requires spreading and cutting to be done in adjacent but separate locations.

Spreading and cutting surfaces are available in standard widths that correspond to fabric width.
Narrow fabric can be spread on a wider table. A spreading surface needs to be about 10 inches
wider than the fabric. Spreading tables may have tracks or rails placed along one or both sides
of a tabletop or just a few inches off the floor. This track helps guide and control the spreader
as it moves up and down the length of the table. With some types of equipment, the table tracks
are geared to synchronize the movement of the spreading machine with fabric unrolling, in
order to regulate tension.

Spreading tables may also be very specialized for certain types of fabric and cutting equipment.
Pin tables have rows of pins located below the surface that can be extended through slats to
hold fabric in a precise location for accurate matching of pattern repeats. Vacuum tables are
used to compress lay-up and prevent shifting or movement during cutting. A spread is covered
with a plastic film that forms a seal over the lay-up when a vacuum is applied. A lay-up of
quilted fabric can be compressed as much as 75 percent when the vacuum is used. This allows
more plies in the lay-up and restricts the movement of slippery fabrics for more accurate cutting.

Cutting equipment may be moved to a lay-up as another lay-up is prepared further down the
table, or fabric can be spread on one surface and then transferred to the cutting surface. Air
flotation tables, when activated; allow easy movement of a lay-up onto an adjacent cutting area.
A layer of air between the table surface and the bottom layer of paper reduces friction and
allows a lay-up to be moved easily without putting stress on the fabric or the operators.
Spreading tables with conveyor zed surfaces carry the fabric to the cutting machine so that no
time is wasted. Ideally one lay-up can be cut while is being spread. Conveyors may be used
with computerized cutting systems, large die presses, and laser cutters.

Garments spreading machines:

The fundamental purpose of spreading machines is to superimpose layers of fabric in a smooth,

tension-free manner for accurate and efficient cutting. Manually operated spreading machines
can be as simple a roll bar mounted on four wheels that is pushed up and down a spreading
table by an operator. Manual spreaders travel only as fast as an operator moves them, while
some of the faster automated machines can spread 100-150 yards per minute. Spreading speed
can only be utilized on long spreads with few defects. Spreading speed may affect productivity,
quality, and cost of the operation, but it should not be the primary focus for purchase of new
equipment. Manual spreading machines may be used by small firms as the primary spreading
device and by large firms for short spreads. As spreading machines become more sophisticated,
they are motor driven and have fabric control devices included increasing productivity,
decreasing variability, and making spreading more cost-efficient.

Fabric cutting:

After completing the fabric spreading then the fabric cutting is started. To cut out pattern pieces
of garment components as per exact dimension of the patterns from a fabric lay is called fabric
cutting. The term fabric cutting is only applicable for garments manufacturing technology.

Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the
marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting
method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and
attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting
accuracy.

During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces temperature in the
blade; the temperature may be up to 300°c. If the fabric contains synthetic fibers, e.g. Nylon,
polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may result in the fabric. As because most of
those fibers melt at around 250°c. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the
fabric wastage moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be problem
of irritation during use of garments.

To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken

– reduce the height of the lay;

– reduce the cutting speed;

– use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval;

– lubricate the knife during cutting.

Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be
capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric
cutting. Whatever the cutting method is used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that the
shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise the
garments produced will be defective.

Summary working procedure in cutting section:

 Follow production planning.

 Sample collect from sample section with pattern and garments approved.
 Lay order sheet/ratio sheet fill up by cutting section (fabric width, item, colour etc.).
 Lay order sheet fill up ok then send to cad section for marker making.
 Marker making ok.
 Fabric requisition from cutting section to store for cutting according to plan.
 Fabric is coming in cutting table as per marker and cutting plan.
 Fabric matches to trim card by merchandiser approved fabric width & length as per
marker.
o Then layering starts manual & machines all fabric. Pocketing and interlining.
o After lay then spread marker upon on the fabric.
o Marker check by pattern in quality people.
o Keep all document make & style. Colour. And size wise send report to store &
sewing line.
o Before cutting cutter man attach clamp. Gum tap on the layer.
o If marker has drill mark then need to drill.
o Cutting start by cutter man.
o Then group and ratio wise stricken.
o As per lay order sheet make bundle chart and send to i.e. Section for bundle card
printing.
o As per bundle chart wise numbering.
o Then panel check.
o If have any fault need to replace cut bundle roll and shad wise then bundle and
send to line by input girl.
 o If have any fusing, embroidery than send to this section.
o When the cutting process is complete, the entire garment components are
inspected for required production.

Sticker tagging:

After complete the cutting, the fabric is tagging by the sticker. The sticker tagging is an
important part in this section. Due to fabric numbering or batching the sticker is tag on the
cutting fabric surface.

Bundling:

After cutting the fabric lay and tagging the sticker, all the garments components in stack form
is shorted out as per size and colour. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number
on each pattern.

When sorting / bundling are complete, all the garment components are sending to the sewing
section.

Re-cutting panels:

Re-cutting is done for garment components that require to be replaced in bundles. Re-cutting
requests are received from the sewing department for defective garment parts. Re-cutting is also
done for block panels cut for the printing and embroidery processes. After receiving garment
panels from the printer or embroiderer, these panels are reshaped.

Fusing garment components:

Fusing in garment components is done to stiffen parts of a garment. If needed, fusing is done at
the cutting section (e.g. fusing of the collar and cuff components of formal shirts).

Fusing process is one kinds of alternative method of fabric joining which is vastly used to attach
the interlining. At present, apparel manufacturing cannot be imagined without fusing process.
Fabric Cutting Tools Used in Apparel Industry:
Cutting department is an important department in readymade apparel industry. Cutting
department is nothing without fabric cutting machines. There are so many cutting tools have
used to cut the fabric in apparel sector. Among those, some mostly used cutting tools or
fabric cutting machines have explained in this article with their features and images.
You may follow Cutting Cost Calculation Formula
Different Types of Fabric Cutting Machines Used in Apparel Manufacturing:
1. Straight knife cutting m/c
2. Band knife cutting m/c
3. Drill cutting m/c
4. Computer controlled cutting m/c(using gerber software)

 Sewing department
In the apparel industry or clothing industry, sewing section is the main department, considered
as heart of apparel industry. When all the garments are complete to cut in the cutting section,
all of these cutting parts are sending to sewing department for making garment. In this section
different cutting parts are joining together with the help of different types of sewing machine,
threads and needle. To complete the perfect garment easily and timely Floor in-charge always
maintains a working procedure. Working procedure is also called as process flow chart of
sewing department in the garments industry.
1. Style Analysis
The line supervisor analyzes the garment construction of the style to be loaded to the line. He
calculates the machine requirement for the style, based on the garment construction.

2. Estimating labor costs

Line supervisors calculate the estimated cost per operation. In the piece-rate-production
system, the supervisor sets piece rates for stitching operations. Those factories that have
industrial engineering departments calculate direct labor costs based on the standard allowed
minutes (SAM) to produce a garment.
3. Planning and scheduling floor level production
The floor in-charge and line supervisors plan the daily production output. They take
information on upcoming orders from merchandisers or the planning department and plan
manpower and machine requirements in advance.
4. Setting the line
Line supervisors set the sewing line for new orders. Line setting involves the tasks of placing
sewing in a sequence, by allocating operators to each machine, giving work to operators and
helpers and giving instructions to operators on how to undertake operations and the required
stitching quality.

5. Stitching garments
The sewing department stitches garments and makes clothes. Operators sew garments using
different types of sewing machines. An operator can be given single or multiple operations to
sew.

6. Balancing the assembly line

To get maximum production from the line, line supervisors balance line by adding additional
operator, or by clubbing operations. Read this article to learn about line balancing.

7. Marking parts
Marking is done on the garment component needed to point a position from where stitching is
to be done. Helpers mark on garment parts as per process requirement by using marking chalk
and magic marker.

8. Ironing garment components

Garment components might need to be folded and ironed prior to stitching to improve seam
quality. Portable irons are used for ironing on garment parts.

9. Checking stitched garments:

Garments are checked in line and off the line. The purpose of checking garments is to reduce
defect generation from the line. The end-of-line checker segregates defective pieces from the
good pieces. Read quality checking procedures in garment production.

10. Stitching alteration

After segregation, defective garments are sent back to the stitching section. Seams are
repaired by re-stitching. If defects are related to the fabric, part changing is done by replacing
the defective component with the correct part.

11. Managing documentation

The department maintains various logbooks and records. The sewing department records the
details of receiving cuttings from the cutting department and issuing garments to the finishing
department. They make reports of the daily production on a line-wise basis and the manpower
used in each line.

12. Recruiting operators

In most factories, line supervisors are responsible for bringing sewing operators and recruiting
operators through skill assessment tests.
Some production activities may vary when product changes.

SELECTION OF PRODUCTION SYSTEM:

The different types of production systems are distinct and require different conditions for
working. However, they should meet the two basic objectives, that is, to meet the
specification of the final product and to be cost-effective in nature. The main aim of any
production system is to achieve a minimum possible total production time. This automatically
reduces in-process inventory and its cost. The subassembly system reduces temporary storage
time to zero by combining temporary storage time with transportation time.
Any production system has four primary factors that make up the system.
Processing time + Transportation time + Temporary storage time + Inspection time = Total
Production Time.
Processing time is the sum total of working time of all operations involved in manufacturing a
garment. Transportation time involves the time taken to transport semi finished or finished
garments from one department to another or from one operation/machine to another.
Temporary storage time is the time during which the garment/bundle is idle as it waits for the
next operation or for completion of certain parts. Inspection time is time taken for inspecting
semi finished garments for any defects during manufacturing or inspecting fully finished
garments before packing.
Bundle system or Progressive Bundle System (PBS) in garments production:

Most apparel manufacturers believe that the best way to be efficient and achieve economy of
scale is by mass production. The bundle system enables manufacturers to gain economies of
scale. The bundle system, often referred to as the traditional garment production system, has
been widely used by garment manufacturers for several decades. The bundle system is a
dedicated system comprising cut parts, tied into bundles, to complete one or more sections of
an apparel product.

The bundle system of apparel production consists of garment parts needed to complete a
specific operation or garment component. Bundles of garments are assembled in the cutting
room where cut parts are matched up with corresponding parts and bundle tickets. The
bundles are moved to the sewing room and given to the garment operator who is scheduled to
complete the operation.

PBS is a variation to the bundle system. The main characteristics of the systems are one
worker with a single skill at a single operation, no interaction between operations, piece rate
compensation, maximization of productivity of individual operators, need for extra spaces for
material storage, straight lined equipment layout, and manual material movement in large
batches. The system helps operators to make more units of garments at faster speeds, with
high productivity but with more quality problems. To stabilize the workflow, higher levels of
WIP add to production costs, not value, and lead to longer lead times. In these systems, the
difference between actual run time and total manufacturing throughput time is significant. The
success of PBS depends on how the production system is set up and used in a plant.

Advantages of the PBS of garment production:

1. This production system may allow better utilization of specialized garment
production machines, as output from one special purpose automated garment machine
may be able to supply several garment machine operators for the next operation.
2. Small garment bundles will allow faster throughput until and unless there are any
bottlenecks or long lead times within operations.

Finishing department
 In the apparel industry, finishing is the last steps of garment manufacturing or
assembling the operation are performed. After making complete stitched garments
by sewing section, these are passed in finishing department for ironing, folding, poly
packing, cartoning to get attractive appearance. All types of garments finishing activities
are done here.

Functions of Finishing Department in Apparel Industry:

Received sewn garments from sewing room

↓
Initial quality check
↓
Washing
↓
Button attached
↓
Tread trimming
↓
Ironing/pressing (inside)
↓
Quality inspection (inside) process wise
↓
Ironing / pressing (outside)
↓
Quality inspection (outside) process wise
↓
Re-pressing
↓
Inspection overall (out looks)
↓
Accessories attached
↓
Folding
↓
Shade sorting
↓
Poly packing
 ↓
Quality audit
↓
Prepare a packing list
↓
Assorting
↓
Carton pack
↓
Final inspection
↓
Record the documents

Received sewn garments from sewing room:

Here, sewn garments are received from sewing department for finishing the garments.

Initial quality check:

Here stitched garments are initially checked by the quality controller. If their found any
repairable or washable defects then garments need repair works in finishing section. But if
found major sewing defects, fabric faults then again send to the sewing department for
correction.

Washing:
For wash garments, 100% check is required after receiving the garments from the sewing
department. Defective garments should be rectified and reject pieces should be sorted out. If
there are any faults like oil marks, stains, other dust and spots then garment washing must be
needed. Some spots are removed by using spot remover and dust and stains are removed by
using machine wash inside the finishing section.

Button attached:
Button, button holes, snap button, eyelets are attached on garment in finishing section.

Tread trimming:
Garment uncut treads are trimmed by helper in finishing section. Otherwise it creates major or
minor defects in garment.

Ironing/pressing (inside):
To remove unwanted wrinkles or crease mark, garments are pressed by using steam iron. For
getting actual garment measurement vacuum tables are used for garment ironing.

Quality inspection (inside) process wise:

After complete the inside ironing then inspect the quality of garments.

Ironing / pressing (outside):

If the inside garments quality inspection is done then it passes for outside pressing.

Quality inspection (outside) process wise:

Check the outside garments quality like measurement, placement of collar etc.

Re-pressing:
When all the quality (like inside and outside) inspection is complete then garments are placed
for re-pressing.

Inspection overall (out looks):

Here, quality inspector ensures the overall out looks of garments.

Accessories attached:
All kinds of garments accessories like hang tag, price tag, barcode etc are attached here.

Folding:
Garments are folded here as following the buyer’s instruction.

Shade sorting:
Quality inspector checks the color shade sorting on garments. They calculate a shade number
for each sample based on how close its color shade is to the standard.
Poly packing:
After folding and color shade sorting garments are poly packed here as per buyer
requirements.

Quality audit:
Quality audit can be performed in the sewing section as well as in the finishing section. It is
very effective quality control activity to achieve the quality target. Quality audit is done prior
to final inspection.

Prepare a packing list:

In this stage, finishing in-charge prepare packing list for cartoning and garment shipment also.
After preparing packing list finishing department inform it with apparel merchandiser.

Assorting:
Before cartoning finishing in-charge must confirm and follow the color and size wise
assorting system.
Carton pack:
Here all the garments should pack to send the garments safely in to the buyer.

Final inspection:
If all the above processes are perfectly done, then apparel manufacturers are organized pre-
shipment or final inspection on garments. After finished the garments, factory top
management, merchandiser, production manager, QC, Finishing inspector and buyers
representatives are to do this final inspection.

Record the documents:

All details documents about production to shipment must be recorded or file up in the official
desk.

 Washing department
Garments Wash:

The garment was is a technology in the garment trade. Normally washing mean cleaning
something. But in the garment trade, only cleaning of garments is not the garment
wash. Garment washing is a technology which is applied to change or modify the outlook,
appearance, comfortability, and design of garments. Garment washing is applied on solid dyed
garments or solid printed fabric. Now I would like to discuss the different types and objects of
wash in the garment industry.

Types of Garments Washing:

In garments industry, there are mainly two types of washing process for garments products.
Those processes are wet washing process and dry washing process. Here also wet washing
process is divided by eight ways and the dry washing process is divided by five ways, according
to the fabric quality and buyer requirements. But most common and applied wash in garment is
normal wash, which is also known as detergent wash. In the wet washing process enzyme wash,
stone wash and bleach wash is most popular to the buyer and the manufacturer. On the other
hand, Potassium per magnet spray and hand scraping is common for dry washing process in the
garments industry.

Garments Wash
A. Wet Washing Process

1. Normal wash or Detergent wash

2. Pigment wash

3. Enzyme wash

4. Stone wash

5. Bleach wash

6. Enzyme-stone wash

7. Bleach-stone wash

8. Acid wash

9. Stone wash

B. Dry wash process

1. Sand blasting

2. Whisking or wrinkling

3. Hand scraping

4. Potassium per magnate spray (PP spraying)

5. Destroying

Objects of Garments Wash:

1. To remove dirt, dust and waste materials from garments.

2. To remove size materials from garments.
3. For garments wash shrinkage occurs, so accurate measurement can be found by customers.
4. Fading effect is varied here by variation of an amount of detergent used, processing time
and processing temperature.
5. To increase the brightness of garments.
6. To increase the smoothness of garments.
7. To change the appearance of garments.
8. To make directly wearable after purchase.
9. To make garments become soft and handy.
10. To remove harmful materials from garments.

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

Figure . Industrial Engineering Department

 The IE department shown in figure 9.1 plays one of the key roles in the
garment industry. The main objective is to:
 Analyze the sample/technical pack

 Line arrangement

The line arrangement and production capacity is achieved by work study,

time study and allowances. Thus SMV is improved. The work study is
measured by method study and work measurement. Time study is used
for all the planning and control systems.
Production target= 480 min/ standard time

Operation bulletin:

It is a format prepared by IE department, which gives information

about type of machines, attachments, total no. of operations, time
taken for each operation, total time taken to make a garment and
efficiency of style.
Batch setting:

Batch setting is the process of machines with suitable folders,

needle and with other setting to carry out operation in sequence
according to operation bulletin into various section. It is to set the
operator to achieve desired standards and various reference
samples are made to make sure that desired quality can be
 achieved.
Roles & responsibilities:

Preparing the Operation Bulletin

Making the Layouts with best Material movement / Flow Machinery arrangement for the Line

Batch setting

Batch setting check list Line Balancing

GSD method implementation Time study

Motion study Costing

Make suggestions on Constructions changes & Appearance

Daily MIS

Process / Method improvement Method auditing

Performance evaluation of the Lines Operator Skill matrix

Eliminating Non value added things along with Plant Manager

Identify and reduce the Wastage % on Trims like Threads along with the Plant Manager

Standard minute value

There are two SMV’s provided for a style in Arvind: Costing SMV
 Actual SMV

Actual SMV:

The actual SMV is arrived based on actual operation bulletin. Here the automatic pocket
creaser and Pocket setter is considered wherever possible. The batch Efficiency or
Performance is calculated based on the Machine SMV’s, as per actual SMV not the costing
SMV.

Standard allowed minutes:

The SAM is calculated by the formula:

SAM= single sewing cycle*20% personal fatigue*15% m/c delay*2%contingency allowance

Method of costing

When tech pack comes to merchant, he fixes the same and sends it to IE department. IED
does the feasibility analysis called as Cut and Make charges, which means whether a
particular order can be accomplished in the factory or not.

There are number of tools and techniques which are used in by industrial engineers to
establish an effective production system in the company. Most of the job profile falls under
following list.

Knowledge about various sewing production systems

Knowledge of all types of Sewing machine necessary for the company Time study (Cycle
timing)
Motion analysis of the operations Operation break down

Preparation of Operation Bulletin SAM Calculation

M/C Layout and Work station layout

Setting up new line for a particular style Production estimation of a line

Work Sampling WIP Control

Line Balancing Capacity study

Cost estimation of a garment

Developing and Maintaining Skill Matrix Calculating Thread Consumption

Work aids, Guide and Attachment Performance rating

 CONCLUSION

This module is set to bring close the quality and auditing aspects from ground level of the
production floor to the higher level. This module not only helps in making the quality aspects
more prominent but also increases the efficiency of monitoring activities.

A common lay for quality and auditing is set for everyone in the denim washing department
and everyone is linked with the critical activities of the production
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

http://www.idpl.com/df/quaterly_financial_reporting/ N J K Enterprises
PresentationFebruary2012.pdf

http://www.idpl.com/pdf/annaul_finacial_reporting/annualrepo rt201011.pdf

http://www.idpl.com/heritage/history.htmlhttp://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2013/0
6/10/global- carbon-emissions-record-high/2408487/

http://www.haverford.edu/educ/knight-booklet/chemreact.html

http://www.epa.gov/climatechange/ghgemissions/gases/co2.html