CacaoCollective

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Beet 2015/2016

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6 Cacao Collective
Ramon
Morató
Web www.ramonmorato.com
Instagram @ramonmorato
BaPa
Twitter @ramonmorato_

Barcelona
Born in Manlleu, Barcelona. With no family link with confectionery and after ending his The possibility of connecting with many
schooling, he began his training in various establishments. professionals in different fields gave
He combined his training by taking all the courses offered by the School of the him ample knowledge of the sector
Provincial Confectioners Association in Barcelona. During a period of internships and helped him realize his passion
in several of the best Spanish confectioners, he also went to important schools and for teaching, researching and creating
technical centres such as the ZDS in Solingen, Germany and the Richard Conseil school products related with the world of sweet
in Lyon, France. things.
His enterprising spirit led him to enter numerous competitions, among them the In recent years this led him to deliver
“Mejor Maestro Artesano Pastelero”: M.M.A.P.E. 97, the highest distinction for Spanish courses, seminars and conferences
confectioners. all over the world, as well as special
As the result of these years of work, his experience and his constant eagerness for endeavours such as the Harvard
innovation, he published “RAMON MORATO chocolate” which won the Prize for the University collaboration project through
Best World Book 2007 on Chocolate, granted by the distinguished Gourmand World the Alicia Foundation.
Cookbook Awards. At present he is Global Creative Director
for the Cacao Barry brand.

8 Cacao Collective
 A chef is nothing without a kitchen,
and this is the space in which Ramon
Morató has made himself at home, found
inspiration and cooked since 1997.

Oteiza
Chocolate Academy
Gurb

Jorge Oteiza (Orio 1908 - San

Sebastian 2003) was one of the
greatest representatives of Basque
sculpture. One of Ramon Morató’s
favourite artists, his personal
collection is housed in the
fascinating Oteiza Foundation-Museum
in Alzuza (Navarrea).
Peratallada
Peratallada is a charming village in Baix
Empordà, Girona. This beautiful area
close to the sea of the Costa Brava
has a stimulating and bohemian air. A
cradle of artists, it is full of inspiring
beauty spots (if you know where to
look).
 Live
under the fog

The county of Osona is situated in the heart of Catalonia,

just an hour away from Barcelona to the south, an hour away
from the Pyrenees to the north and an hour away from the
Mediterranean to the east.
This is where Ramon Morató lives and works, an area rich in
nature and famous for an enclosed landscape that generates
thick banks of fog and freezing temperatures over the long
winters.

10 Cacao Collective
Years ago, when on a work placement
at Paco Torreblanca’s patisserie, Ramon
learned the discipline necessary for
running. Although he can’t devote as
much time to it as he would like, Ramon is
a regular runner both at home and when
travelling around the world. For him it’s a
way of activating the body, clearing the
mind and, of course, it’s his favourite time
for mulling over that dessert that’s not
quite right or that new idea that’s been
bouncing around in his head…
Beet
Beta vulgaris

Beet (Beta Vulgaris) is a plant of the

Amaranthaceae family. It originated in
Southern Europe, in Italy according to
the most widespread opinion.
Its wild ancestor is Beta Maritima L.,
which grows freely in many coastal areas
of Southern Europe and North Africa.
This species is not edible and has only
been used as a medicinal plant.
Beets were used in ancient times,
when not only the root was consumed
but also the leaves, which taste similar
to spinach. From the 19th century it
ceased to be consumed as a standalone
food and was mainly used for the
manufacture of table sugar or the
extraction of alcohol.
There are different varieties of beet,
among which beetroot and white beet
stand out. They are both rich in sugar,
which is much more easily assimilated
than that of sugar cane. They are also
very rich in starch. Although they
possess nutritionally rich leaves that can
be prepared in the same way as chards
or spinach, the root is consumed more
nowadays, served sliced in all sorts of
salads.

Beetroot is the variety most used in the

food industry as a fresh vegetable.
It is typically planted at the end of spring
and needs between 8 and 12 weeks to
mature.
It is a deep and fleshy root that grows
in the plant of the same name and is
eaten as a vegetable. It is available in
the market all year round, although it is
more plentiful in winter.

As with so many things, its consumption

and popularity has a cultural
component. Its use in cake and pastry
making is not widespread although it
is used in some sorbet or ice cream
recipes, combined with fruits or in an
adaptation of the well-known carrot
cake, substituting the grated carrot.

12 Cacao Collective
 Beet

AROMA WHEEL by FOODPAIRING®

An aroma wheel is a visual representation of the analysis of
an ingredient. Each ingredient contains a series of flavor
molecules. Each flavor molecule has its own description
(smell) (eg .: pineapple, rose, ...) Several descriptions can
be grouped into one group (eg .: herbal, fruity,…)

Creative
As on so many occasions, this cake
concept is the result of connecting
several different ideas and needs.

path
Looking at the Moodboard, designed to
serve as inspiration for this project, I
soon began to associate concepts, shapes
and colours with some ideas that had
been bouncing around in my head for
some time.

A few months ago I had the chance

to visit the Department of
Crystallography and Mineralogy
of the University of Barcelona
in order to explore possible
collaborations. I was very
surprised to see some textures
produced from chocolate for
crystallography projects, along
with various mineral samples
exhibited in the department, which
reminded me of the rocky landscape
of the wildest reaches of the
Costa Brava in Cap de Creus, in my
beloved Empordà area.
I thought that one day I would make
a cake like that, recalling one of
the prettiest cakes I’ve seen in
my life, namely the “President” by
Bernachon, which I discovered in
one of the first books on chocolate
I bought, CHOCOLATE.
 Inside out cake
01 Beet

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Flavour Almost everybody knows that
the combination of beetroot
and raspberry works.
Thanks to Food-pairing,
today it is much easier to
try combinations that in
theory are not so evident.
Nevertheless, in this case
the earthy hints of beetroot
and the acid and floral
flavours of raspberry, along
with their shared colour,
made this a straightforward
decision. I had tried
it in some sorbets and
desserts, but when it came
to incorporating chocolate
things got more complicated.
I was clear about using
the Purity from Nature™
range. Due to their special
fermentation system, these
chocolates do not possess
very specific notes, which
means they offer plenty of
freedom for combinations
with other ingredients, as
well as offering some mild
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vegetable hints, such as
parsnip.
First of all, I tried
using the Inaya™ 65% cocoa
dark couverture, but after
several tests I had to
alter the strength of the
cocoa notes and switch to
the Alunga™ 40% cocoa milk
chocolate couverture, which
I use for the chocolate and
raspberry mousse.
The addition of the cream
cheese filling and the
salted biscuit base of
the cake help me to create
a complicity with the
beetroot, which is used
fresh and presented in two
textures: jellified and in
mousse form.
All the components of the
cake have been formulated in
such a way as to prioritise
flavour, minimising sugar,
dairy products and the use
of eggs.
Texture
Normally, in cake and pastry making we use sponge cake as the base layer inside
various cakes. On this occasion, inspired by the Moodboard and by the explosion
of nature, life and colours that takes place in spring, when everything grows and
develops, I thought I could transfer the sponge cake from the inside of the cake
to the outside, hence the name “Inside Out Cake”, and I have set myself the goal
of creating a collection of 5 cakes with different flavours based on this concept.
I soon saw the possibility of covering a cake or dessert by simulating these
textures of nature, and that the best way to achieve this would be by baking the
sponge cake in the microwave.
This sponge cake was created by Eduard Xatruc, former member of the creative
team of El Bulli restaurant. It offers a very light texture and some shapes that very
quickly transmit the intended message of the vegetable/chocolate association.
The truth is that I had not used this sponge cake very much because I felt this
technique had been greatly overused in restaurant desserts and couldn’t see
it being applied to cake and pastry making. However, on this occasion I have
adapted the recipe so that the product does not dehydrate so quickly in a glass
display unit.

Format
Given that this is a
somewhat unconventional
combination, my advice is
that this cake should be
sold to the general public
in individual format, or
for two or three people
at the most, and always
accompanied with detailed
information.
 step
by
step

Leavened shortbread with salt

and pink peppercorns

1.
2.
Beet
jelly

Tip! 3.
Liquefied beetroot
Stabilising the beetroot juice has required
several tests. Copying frozen puréed fruit
brands, for greater ease in production,
when we liquefied the beetroot we created a Beet
“stabilised base” with carob bean gum and mousse
sugars, which will serve us for the various
creations. Carob bean gum is one of the
components used to stabilise ice cream. In
this case it helps us control the water of

Tip!
the beetroot, given that it is a very watery
product.

2x3 Meringue
This meringue is very practical to use; I stopped using Italian meringue years ago for creations of this kind. The
capacity for incorporating air is the same and with this creation it is possible to have the base of egg whites and
sugar already mixed and ready in the freezer to be used when necessary and in the exact amounts required.
Normally the recipe is two parts egg whites (always pasteurised) and three parts granulated sugar. However, in this
case I have replaced all of the sugar with atomized glucose DE21 since it offers less sweetness.

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4. 5.
Cream
cheese filling

Raspberry mousse with alunga™

40% cacao milk chocolate couverture

6.
Chocolate
glaze

3.
7.
Microwave
beet sponge
Tip!
Microwave
Sponge Cake
We’ve adapted the recipe to give
it the beetroot flavour, as well as
incorporating one part of invert sugar
to provide stability and so that it does
not dry out in a glass display unit. If
you wish, once the cake is completed,
you can protect the sponge by giving it
a velvety covering of white chocolate
paint and red lipsoluble colouring.
 Inside out cake
01 Beet
Ingredients for about 12 desserts measuring 12 cm in diameter and 4 cm thick.

Leavened shortbread
with salt and pink
peppercorns

5,98 %
4 375 g Flour
27,59 % 225 g Butter
18,39 % 150 g Caster sugar
5,52 % 45 g Whole egg
0,31 % 2,5 g Baking powder
0,74 % 6 g Pink peppercorn powder
1,47 % 12 g Maldon salt
C/S Mycryo™

1. Place the flour and diced butter in a

food processor fitted with the paddle
attachment and mix until a sandy texture is
obtained.

2. Add the rest of the ingredients and

mix just long enough to obtain a compact
dough.

3. Roll out the dough, cover with cling film

and refrigerate for a few hours.

4. Extend the dough to a thickness of about

4 mm and cut out discs measuring 10 cm in
diameter.

5. Bake at 160ºC inside the moulds to

prevent them from losing their shape in the
oven.

6. Remove from the oven, spray with

Mycryo™ and set aside until assembly.

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Beet
jelly

98,36 % 600 g *Special liquefied beetroot

1,64 % 12 g Gelatine sheets

1. Heat part of the liquefied beet and use to dissolve the gelatine
sheets.

2. Add the rest and dispense about 50 g of the jelly obtained

in moulds measuring 10 cm in diameter.

Beet Cream
mousse cheese filling

41,78 % 300 g *Special liquefied beetroot 67,66 % 410 g Philadelphia type

1,11 % 8 g Gelatine sheets cream cheese
22,28 % 160 g *Meringue 2x3 6,60 % 40 g Milk
34,82 % 250 g Semi-whipped cream 0,17 % 1 g Fine salt
0,83 % 5g Gelatine sheets
24,75 % 150 g *Meringue 2x3

1. Heat part of the liquefied beet and use to dissolve the gelatine
sheets. 1. Warm the cheese to about 20ºC. Separately
heat the milk with the salt and add the
2. Add the rest and check that the temperature is about 25ºC. previously hydrated gelatine sheets.

3. Add the meringue 2x3 and then the semi-whipped cream. 2. Pour the mix onto the cream cheese and
check that the temperature of the mixture is
4. Dispense about 40 g into each beet jelly mould. about 30ºC.

3. Add the previously whipped meringue 2x3.

4. Mix and dispense about 45 g into moulds

measuring 10 cm in diameter.

5. Use the rest of the filling to fill up some

tubes which you can use for decorating.

6. Freeze.
Raspberry mousse
with Alunga™ 40%
cacao milk chocolate Chocolate Microwave
couverture glaze beet sponge

23,97 % 350 g Raspberry purée with 20,76 % 450 g “Natural” beet juice 11,81 % 70 g Beet powder
10% sugar 1,32 % 30 g Powdered beetroot 15,19 % 90 g Pastry flour
34,25 % 500 g AlungaTM 40% cacao milk 17,30 % 375 g Sugar 0,08 % 0,5 g Hydrosoluble colouring
chocolate couverture 24,22 % 525 g Glucose syrup (DE 44) 3,38 % 20 g Caster sugar
6,85 % 100 g *Meringue 2x3 13,84 % 300 g Sweetened condensed 1,69 % 10 g Invert sugar
34,25 % 500 g Semi-whipped cream milk 0,34 % 2 g Fine salt
(35% fat) 1,75 % 38 g Leaf gelatine 50,63 % 300 g Egg white
0,68 % 10 g Gelatine sheets 20,76 % 450 g 34% cacao ZéphyrTM 16,88 % 100 g Sunflower oil
white chocolate
coverture

1. Melt the milk couverture at about
40-45ºC.
2. Separately, heat about 100 g raspberry
purée and dissolve the hydrated gelatine
before adding the rest of the purée.
3. Pour the purée and gelatine onto the
previously melted couverture and emulsify.
4. At about 38-40ºC, add meringue 2x3 and
the semi-whipped cream, and then assemble
the tarts.
1. Combine the beet juice with the beet
powder, add the sugar and glucose syrup
and bring to a boil.
2. Add the condensed milk and leaf gelatine.
3. Pour over the couverture.
4. Emulsify well and strain.
5. Store chilled and use at 38/40ºC over the
previously frozen desserts.
1. Combine the beet powder, flour,
colouring, sugars and salt.
2. Gradually add the egg whites and finally,
the sunflower oil.
3. Mix with a stick blender and strain.
4. Pour into a syphon, load with two
cartridges and shake.
5. Dispense into plastic cups, filling them to
a third of their capacity.

6. Place in the microwave and cook for 30

seconds on full power.

7. Set aside and unmould before use.

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Assembly
1. Prepare some moulds measuring
12 cm in diameter and 4 cm deep.

2. Assemble the desserts upside

down, placing a layer of
chocolate-raspberry mousse at
the bottom.

3. Continue by inserting the

cream cheese filling and then
the beet jelly and mousse.

4. Top with a salt and pink

pepper biscuit.

5. Deep-freeze the desserts

before glazing, and decorate to
taste with the beet sponge, a
tube of cream cheese, beetroot
dice and beet shoots.

*
Basic
recipe

* *
Special liquefied Meringue 2x3
beetroot atomised glucose

87,72 % 900 g Beetroot juice 40 % 200 g Pasteurised egg

5,85 % 60 g Sugar 60 % 300 g DE 21 atomised glucose
5,85 % 60 g DE 21 atomised glucose
0,58 % 7,5 g Carob gum

1. Heat the beetroot juice. 1. Combine all ingredients and heat to about
50ºC, whisking constantly.
2. Add the combined dry ingredients and
bring to a boil, mixing constantly. 2. Whip or set aside.

3. Reserve.
Trend 1
Invasion of the plants 2015/2016
_

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