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Sun Temple at Modhera: An Ode in Stone

Article · October 2009

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HISTORY

Sun Temple at Modhera:


An Ode in Stone
Khurram Ashraf and Zeba Nisar

Model of Modhera Sun temple, Gujarat

F
An exploration into the or centuries, Sun has been wor- Rajasthan, Konark in Orissa and Mod-
planning of Sun temple, shipped as a major deity in India. hera in Gujarat.
Modhera — an epitome The Vedic scriptures of the Hin- The Modhera sun temple is situated
of north Indian du religion refer sun, as the source of on the banks of the river Pushpavati,
architectural style energy, vitality and life which controls 30 kms from Mehesana and 125 kms
the course of our life. Our concepts from Ahmedabad in northern Gujarat.
of life, time and death, good and evil, According to the ‘Skanda Purana’ and
happiness and misery stem from this ‘Brahma Purana’, Modhera is an ancient
primeval source of divine effulgence. township, known as Dharmaranya (lit-
Many temples in India are exclusively erally meaning, the forest of righteous-
dedicated to Sun: Martand temple in ness). It is believed that Lord Rama per-
Kashmir, Katarmal in Almora, Osia in formed here a yajna (sacrifice) himself

34 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People October 2009


Model of Modhera Sun Temple, Gujarat

of the sin of having killed a Brahmin SUN TEMPLE - NORTH The shikhara of the temples in
- Ravana, the king of Lanka. Rama built INDIAN STYLE OF TEMPLE north and central India, in contrast, re-
“Modherak” which subsequently came ARCHITECTURE sembles an upturned cone that is deco-
to be known as “Modhera”. It became a The basic structure of temples in India rated with miniature conical shikharas.
pilgrimage centre for hordes of people is a room or the Garbhagriha (sanctum Though the Sun Temple at Modhera
who thronged to the place to pay hom- sanctorum) where the idol of the main belongs to the north Indian style of
age to Sun. deity is kept. The temple is approached temple architecture, it has some dis-
The Sun Temple, Modhera (Gujarat) by a flight of steps and is often built on tinct features of its own. The structure
was built in 1026 AD by King Bhimdev a platform. A porch covers the entrance of the main temple cannot be reached
of the Solanki dynasty. Solankis were to the temple and is supported by directly because the main temple and
considered to be Suryavanshis, or de- carved pillars. A prominent roof called the Gateway or Torana are separated
scendants of ‘Sun god’. This temple the Shikhara surmounts the top of the by a pillared mandap. There is a large
not only reflects the architectural Garbhagriha and dominates the sur- water tank in front of the Torana, which
abilities of the Solanki dynasty, which roundings. The temple at Modhera has leads to the temple and is a distinct
built it but also, speaks highly of the a hall within it known as the mandap, a feature of this temple.
devotional zeal of the ruling dynasty feature common to some large temples
at the time. As in the Sun Temple at of North India. SUN TEMPLE MODHERA
Konark, this temple was so designed Temple architecture in India is – its components
that the rays of the Sun would fall on broadly divided into the northern and The imposing Sun Temple stands in
the image of Surya at the time of the southern styles. The form and shape of the middle of a large compound of the
equinoxes. Whatever remains of this the Shikhara and the distinctiveness of small town of Modhera. This temple
temple is grand; the shikharas are no- its decoration have led to this classifi- was constructed at a time when the
tably absent but the Toranas in the cation. The Shikhara of the temples in cult of Sun worship held its sway in
frontal halls, and the intricate carvings south India tends to be made up of dis- many parts of India in the early me-
on the exterior speak of the splendor tinct horizontal levels that diminish to dieval period. Various Hindu rulers, in
of this shrine, which still is a home to form a pyramid. Each level is decorated their acts of obeisance, erected mag-
the Modhera dance festival. with miniature temple rooftops. nificent structures.

October 2009 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People 35


Site Plan of Sun Temple at Modhera, Gujarat

The Sun Temple at Modhera is


divided into three main sections.
1. Surya Kund, which is an intricately
carved, stepped tank named after
Sun God Surya
2. Sabha Mandap, which is a hall
used for religious gatherings and
conferences.
3. Guda Mandap, i.e. sanctum
sanctorum, which once housed the
idol of Sun God.

SURYA KUND
Most well designed sun temples have a
tank, for it reflects a belief as old as the
Rig Veda that the divine sun emerged
from the Cosmic Waters. The Surya-kun-
da also known as Rama-kunda is a fas- Surya Kund, Sun temple at Modhera in Gujarat
cinating massive rectangular stepped
tank, located in front of the toran, which to west.  It was used to store pure water. emonial ablutions and would proceed
leads one to the temple. It measures Devotees on their way to offer prayers for worship towards the temple only
176 feet north to south, by 120 feet east to the Sun God stopped here for cer- after cleansing themselves here. Small,

36 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People October 2009


arches, which have a marvelous quality
of intricate and precision craftsman-
ship, crowning Kirti Stambas(towers of
fame), erected by Solanki Rajput kings
to commemorate their victories in bat-
tle field. This hall of religious gather-
ings is a magnificent pillared hall. The
Sabha Mandap is a forest of some 52
pillars, each one of them carved in in-
Sectional Elevation of Surya Kund
tricate detail and depicting whole vol-
miniature shrines dot the steps around
this kund. The tank is profusely covered
with sculpture in relief in wide bands
that run all alongside the length and
breadth. There are 108 of them to coin-
cide with the number considered aus-
picious by the Hindus. Besides these,
there are four larger shrines dedicated
to Lord Vishnu (one of the principle
gods in the Hindu pantheon), Ganesh
(the God of knowledge and prosperity
and son of Lord Shiva), Natraja (Lord
Shiva as the cosmic dancer) and Sitala
Mata (the goddess of the dreaded dis-
ease-smallpox).

SABHA MANDAP
The Sabha mandap is a small inde-
pendent structure, which can be ap-
Plan of
proached from all four sides. The en-
Sabha Mandap
trance to the temple is through Torana
umes of folk tales from the great Hindu
epics, Ramayana and the Mahabhara-
ta. The pillars and entrances have been
cleverly spaced out so as to allow vary-
ing shades of light and darkness to fall
on the carvings. At the centre of the
hall is the walnut shaped ceiling, with
its numerous folds of floral girdles, up-
held by two aisles of pillars arranged
on diagonals of the square plan. Even
at its dimly lit height, the astounding
splendor of stone craft shines brightly.
It is a visual delight to stand under the
23 feet high ceiling.
The architectural plan of this temple
follows the tradition of th e time, which
Sabha Mandap was having twin halls. So, while the

October 2009 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People 37


Sabha Mandap was meant for religious
congregations, the main temple or the
Guda Mandap was built to house the
sanctum sanctorum.

GUDA MANDAP
The Guda mandap forms the third sec-
tion of the Sun Temple at Modhera and
is not attached to the sabha mandap.
The guda mandap is placed on a lotus-
base plinth. It has friezes of the Sun
God, other gods and goddesses cover-
ing its walls. Besides the depiction of
various deities, one can also see on the
walls, various aspects of human life like
the cycle of birth and death and some
Guda Mandap
erotic scenes from the Kama Sutra or
the ancient Indian treatise on love. of the sanctum sanctorum and that of God. The guda mandap has been so de-
It is rectangular in plan, measures the temple is the pradakshina-marga signed that on solar equinoxes i.e. on
51 feet 9 inches in length and 25 feet or bhrama (the circumambulatory pas- March 21 and September 23, the first
8 inches in breadth. Thus the total sage).  This passage was roofed with rays of the rising sun fall directly on
area of about 1275 sq.ft is divided into flat slabs laid across and carved with and light up the niche of the idol of the
nearly two equal halves.  The inner half rosettes on the undersides and above Surya Bhagwan (Sun God) sits. It is said
occupies the Garbhagrha (sanctum this, rose the sikhara.   that the Guda mandap had a tunnel,
sanctorum) and the front one the Man- The sanctum sanctorum, once which could be used by the members
dapa (hall). Between the outer walls housed the magnificent idol of the Sun of the royal family to flee, in case of an

Plan of Guda Mandap

38 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People October 2009


Guda Mandap

exhibition of performing arts. It also


has the added charm of being off the
tourist trail, even though every book
on Indian architecture makes a man-
datory reference to it. Even in its own
time it was recognized as something
special, as tradition immediately
began saying the temple was over-
Ceiling Plan of Guda Mandap
laid in gold leaf, so brightly did the
attack. Though the roof over the Garb- Modhera has now the place for soft orange sandstone, it is construct-
hagriha of this hall has collapsed, the several dance and cultural festivals. ed of, blaze in the light of the eye of
ruined shell gives an idea of the form The sun temple and the ambience here the World.
and details of the structure. provide a majestic backdrop for the
references
Brown Percy, Indian Architecture (Bud-
dhist and Hindu Periods), An article on
Sun-Temple at Modhera (Gujarat) by
Dr. Advaitavadini Kaul.
All illustrations are made by the
students of B.Arch Ist year (Batch:
2005-06), Integral University, Luc-
know. This exercise was done by
them as a part of their measure
drawing curriculum under the guid-
ance of Ar. Khurram Ashraf and Ar.
Zeba Nisar.

Ar. Khurram Ashraf, M.Arch. and


Ar. Zeba Nisar, M.Arch. are Lecturers
in Faculty of Architecture, Integral
University, Lucknow.
Carving details of Sabhamandap Photograph: Courtesy the Author.

October 2009 ARCHITECTURE - Time Space & People 39

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