INTRODUCTION TO

COSMETICS &
COSMECEUTICALS
 COSMETICS

FDA: Articles intended to be rubbed,

poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced
into, or otherwise applied to the human
body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance."
 COSMETICS

A substance or mixture intended to be

ingested, inhaled, injected or implanted
into the human body is NOT a cosmetic
product
 COSMETICS

The word cosmetics arises from a

Greek word “KOSMETIKOS” which
mean to adorn (more attractive)
 COSMETICS
Products can be skin moisturizers,
perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye
and facial makeup preparations, shampoos,
permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes,
and deodorants, as well as any material
intended for use as a component of a
cosmetic product
 COSMETICS
Law does not specifically mandate animal
testing for cosmetic safety

Thus, the safety of this product has not

been determined."
 COSMECEUTICALS

Cosmeceuticals represent a marriage between

cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals
are cosmetic products that have pharmaceutical
benefits as they are intended to treat or prevent
disease, or affect the structure or functions of the
human body
 COSMECEUTICALS

Like cosmetics, cosmeceuticals are topically

applied, but better than ordinary cosmetic
products they contain active ingredients that
benefit the biological function of the skin.
Cosmeceuticals improve appearance, but they do
so by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy
skin.
 Cosemeceuticals
• Cosmeceuticals are considered to be drugs
and must comply with both the drug and
cosmetic provisions of the law

• Fluoride toothpaste, hormone creams, sun

tanning preparations, antiperspirants that are
also deodorants, and antidandruff shampoos.
Differences between Cosmeceuticals & Cosmetics
1. The existence and the level of active ingredients

Cosmetics may but normally do not have active

ingredients and if they do have active ingredients they
are not at the scientific proven levels or in the correct
delivery system to benefit the skin.

To be classed as a Cosmeceuticals active ingredients

must be at the scientifically proven levels of
concentrations that have an positive affect on the skin.
They must be in a delivery system that ensures that the
active ingredients can penetrate the skin correctly.
Differences between Cosmeceuticals & Cosmetics

2. Where you can buy the products:

Cosmetic products are widely accessible, available from

supermarkets, department stores and salons.

Cosmeceuticals are only available from Medi Spas,

Paramedical skin clinics, Dermatologists, Cosmetic and
prescribed by a skin professional. By having a
profession skin diagnosis your will be prescribed the
correct skincare that will lead to amazing results.
Differences between Cosmeceuticals & Cosmetics

3. Results from using the products:

Cosmetics These products are sold over the counter

because they are safe. Cosmetics cannot penetrate the
epidermis to access the deeper layers of the skin.

Cosmeceuticals when applied to the skin the active

ingredients are able to reach the deeper dermal layers of
skin to allow them to work on the skin and be able to
make noticeable changes in the skin
CLASSIFICATION OF
COSMETICS…
 Cosmeceuticals
Skin: face products, moisturizers, perfume,
deodorants, creams, lotion

Hair: hair colorant, conditioners, creams , gels

Toothpaste and powder

 Cosmetic functions
European Regulations specify 6 functions
for cosmetic products, namely:

to change the appearance

to keep in good condition
to clean
to perfume
to protect
to correct body odors
 To change the appearance Decorative
Decorative cosmetics (should not penetrate the skin)
Foundation creams
Blushers
Lipsticks & eye shadows
Fake tans
Cover fine lines & wrinkles

The products need to penetrate the S.C.

Plump out fine lines & wrinkles
Freeze facial muscles
DHA tanning
Skin lightening
 To keep in good condition
Moisturize
Occlusive film
Humectants
NMF (Urea, cholesterol, sodium lactate, lactic
acid, amino acids, phospholipids, sodium PCa,
water) (need to penetrate the S.C.)

The products need to penetrate the S.C.

Anti-oxidants
Support immune system
Plump out fine lines & wrinkles
 To clean
Soap
Syndet bars
Bath additives
Shower gels
Cleansing emulsions
Scrubs
Cleansing masks
Shampoos
These products should not penetrate the skin but they do
affect the skin surface (Stratum corneum – SC), they can
remove skin lipids, affect skin barrier properties, increase
cell turn- over, change pH & cause loss of moisture
 To perfume
Perfume
Toilet waters
Mists & sprays
Aromatherapy preparations
Bath additives
Shower gels
Deodorants
Body lotions

These products should not penetrate the skin but

perfume compounds including essential oils may do so.
 To protect
The products should not penetrate the skin
Sun protection
Barrier creams
Antiseptic washes

The products need to penetrate the S.C.

Anti-oxidants
Protect immune system
 To correct body odors

The products should not penetrate the skin

Deodorants
Antiperspirants

The products may affect the S.C.

Cleansing
Ingredients
 Cosmetic Label
Common information includes:

brand name and product name

product type/purpose and description
ingredient list
symbols
the product weight or volume (net contents)
usage/storage directions
manufacturer contact details.
Example of cosmetic product label
 Ingredient list/INCI list
INCI names (International Nomenclature of
Cosmetic Ingredient) are systematic names
internationally recognized to identify cosmetic
ingredients (i.e, plant extracts, oils,
chemicals). They are developed by the
International Nomenclature Committee (INC)
and published in the International Cosmetic
Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook.
Example
of INCI
 Decoding cosmetic ingredients
Common name INCI
Vitamin A Retinol
Vitamin B5 Pantothenic acid
Vitamin C Ascorbic acid
Vitamin E Tocopherol
Green tea extract Camellia sinensis extract
Licorice extract Glycyrrhiza glabra extract
Lemongrass oil Cymbopogon schoenanthus oil
Lavender oil Lavandula angustifolia oil
 Ingredient order

The order the ingredients are listed on the label is

important. Ingredients are listed in descending
order from greatest amount to least amount
present in the product (except ingredients present
at a concentration of less than 1%; those can be
listed in any order).
ALLERGEN
 Resources of cosmetics information
https://cosmeticsinfo.org/resources

https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-products-
ingredients/cosmetic-ingredients

https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/site/about.php

A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients

Toxic Beauty The hidden chemicals in cosmetics

and how they can harm us
 Understanding symbols

Period after opening: the

product must be used within Best before end: the product must
the timeframe noted inside the be used before the marked date
jar symbol (in months) after it (regardless of when it has been
has been opened. open).
 Understanding symbols
Reference to enclosed or attached
information: The EU Regulation requires that
this symbol is used if the product label is too
small to contain the compulsory information
and it has instead been provided on a
leaflet/tag.
The ‘e’ mark (Europe): Cosmetics must
be labeled with their nominal net content.
The ‘e’mark is is used in Europe to
indicate a brand complies with average
fill requirements. “Packaged goods
labelled with the ‘℮’ mark are declaring
their compliance with the requirements
of the ‘average system’ under Directive
76/211/EEC” (Gov.uk).
 Understanding symbols

Plastic classifications: On plastic

Recyclable: This symbol means packaging you’ll often see a
that the packaging of the product symbol that tells you what type of
can be recycled. plastic the packaging is made from
so you can recycle it correctly.
 Understanding symbols

Cosmebio: French standard Natrue: Belgian standard for

for natural and/or organic natural and/or organic cosmetics.
cosmetics.
 Understanding symbols

Soil Association:British BDIH: German standard for

standard for natural and/or natural and/or organic
organic cosmetics. cosmetics.
 Understanding symbols

Choose cruelty free: Australian Cruelty free: US-based organization

organization that certifies products
that have not been tested on animal
nor contain ingredients tested on
animals. It has certified over 250
companies.
that certifies products that have not
been tested on animal nor contain
ingredients tested on animals. It has
certified over 600 companies.
NON-OFFICIAL (MADE-UP) SYMBOLS
NON-OFFICIAL (MADE-UP) SYMBOLS