If you have been a victim of the “authentic Penang char kway teow” fraud, raise your hand.

How
many times have you ordered Penang char kway teow at an eatery in the Klang Valley, expecting the
same taste and aroma as you’d get at a hawker stall on the island, only to be disappointed?

It is worse when you find out that the cook is a foreign worker who has never stepped foot on the
island, let alone know how to fry the noodles Penang-style.

I have been a silent victim for far too long, thus my scepticism was valid when I first saw Tiger char
kway teow (RM15.90) listed on the menu at Ten Years restaurant in Sri Petaling, Kuala Lumpur.

Tiger char kway teow has been in business at Ping Hooi Cafe on Carnavon Street for over 60 years, so
Ten Years better not mess this up.

I am finally served Tiger char kway teow the way I remember eating it in Penang … on my third visit
to the restaurant.

The plate of fried kway teow smells divine, the noodles do not stick together, the prawns are
succulent and the taste would make the original seller, Tiger, roar with pride.

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The Tiger Char Kway Teow served at Ten Years would make the original proprietor in Penang proud.
Photo: The Star/Yap Chee Hong

Victor Bong, the owner of Ten Years restaurant is on to something brilliant that benefits lazy food
lovers like me; folks who love a certain dish from a particular state but cannot go there frequently.

Bong didn’t just stop at Tiger char kway teow, he also brought together Nancy Kitchen’s Nyonya
laksa from Malacca, Kak Pah’s nasi dagang from Terengganu, Kak Tum’s nasi kuning from Sabah, Kak
Yati’s nasi lemak from Selangor, T&T prawn mee from Penang, and Shun Fa chicken rice and Abu
Pasembur from Kuala Lumpur under one roof.

On top of these dishes, Ten Years also serves other items such as Grilled Steak with Asam Pedas
Sauce, Grilled Chicken Percik Sauce and Asam Laksa.

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Kak Tum Nasi Kuning. Photo: The Star/Chan Tak Kong

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Ten Years owner Victor Bong (right) and executive chef Arthur Lim. Photo: The Star/Yap Chee Hong

Ten Years opened for business just two months ago, but Bong is already working on growing the list.

“Ten Years was established to preserve Malaysian cuisine for the later generations, and protect
these recipes that may otherwise disappear after the owner retires or passes on, especially if their
children do not want to take over the business,” says Bong.

“This new gastronomic concept aims to gather the nation’s most famous street foods from various
cultures under one roof, and rebrand to cater to modern and diverse tastes.”

The restaurant only partners with hawkers and restaurant operators who own a famous Malaysian
dish, and have been in business for at least 15 years. The recipe owners benefit via profit sharing,
and can still operate their original business at their pleasure.

The responsibility to ensure that the food tastes exactly like that served by the original hawkers and
restaurant proprietors falls on Ten Years’ executive chef Arthur Lim. Before the opening of the
restaurant, he was tasked with shadowing the original cooks and learn from them in the kitchen.

“Most of these cooks do not have the specific measurement for the ingredients that they use in their
cooking. I had to do lots of guesswork,” says Lim. He managed to finalise the recipes, and has
standardised them with exact measurements – with the original cooks’ consent, of course.

The days Lim spent slaving in Nancy’s kitchen in Malacca has definitely paid off. The Nancy Nyonya
Laksa (RM19.90) has a thick and fragrant curry, the noodles are springy and every mouthful is full of
flavours. I also get thick slices of fishcakes and prawns in the laksa.

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T&T prawn mee from Penang (foreground) and Nancy’s Nyonya Laksa from Malacca. Photo: The
Star/Yap Chee Hong

At Ten Years, the noodle and rice dishes are served with a set of condiments comprising cucur
badak, mixed salad, acar and sambal. Honestly though, if you have other food to focus on in front of
you like I do, you won’t even touch them.

I find the fish curry that accompanies the Kak Pah Nasi Dagang a tad too strong in flavours and it
overpowers the soft and fragrant rice. The thick slab of mackerel is, however, fresh and tasty to eat
on its own.

I remember having to pay about RM5 for my nasi dagang at Kak Pah’s stall at Pantai Batu Burok in
Kuala Terengganu. Here, it is priced at RM18.90.

Abu Pasembur Indian Rojak (RM12.90) from Kepong Baru gives me a reason to re-visit Ten Years.
Unless I am in Kepong, of course. Then I would just go to the signboard-less stall opposite the
church, in front of the roundabout.

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Abu Pasembur is one of the reasons why I would return to Ten Years restaurant. Photo: The
Star/Chan Tak Kong

The pasembur comes with lots of shredded cucumbers, bean sprouts, fried beancurd, prawn fritters,
hard boiled eggs, and sambal squid. The peanut sauce is slightly watery and sweet, but when mixed
with the rest of the ingredients, it packs a mean punch.

Ten Years doesn’t serve pork or alcoholic drinks, but tries to give a kick in the beverage department
with its mocktails.

The sour Ang Mo Kat Chai (RM8.90) jolts you up immediately, and the Minty Water-melon is cooling
and refreshing.

The decor at Ten Years pays homage to the funky 70s, pop 80s and contemporary 90s, but the fusion
looks busy and doesn’t mesh well.

Neon lights light up from underneath the tables, metal flasks are parked haphazardly on the railings,
the colours clash at almost every corner and the dark ceiling and dim lighting just don’t do it for me.
But if you’re there just for good food with hopes that it tastes like the ones served at its original
location, then I guess the authenticity of what is served on the table is what matters most.

You may not find it on the first try, but that doesn’t mean you should give up.

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e1445226693448.jpg

Ten Years Restaurant

No 1, Jalan Radin Bagus 6

Bandar Baru Sri Petaling
57000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-9054 9688
Open 11.30am to 11pm daily

Read more at http://www.star2.com/food/eating-out/2015/10/20/ten-years-all-in-one-malaysian-

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