Table of Contents

Introduction 4

What Are Essential Oils? 4

Chapter One 7

Safety and Essential Oils 7

Photosensitivity and Photo Toxicity 9

Dilution and Essential Oil 10

Essential Oils Needing More Dilution 13

Patch Test for Safety 14

Troubleshooting Dilution 16

Troubleshooting Essential Oil Safety 17

Equipment Needed 19

Chapter Two 22

Getting Started with Perfume Making 22

The Issue of Scent Notes 23

Top Notes 24

Middle Notes 24

Base Notes 24

Aroma Types 25

The Organoleptic or Deep Sniff Test 27

The More Common Essential Oils Used 29

Building Your First Perfume 32

2
 Making Test Batches 33

Chapter Three 35

Perfume Recipes 35

Floral and Spice 36

Men's Scent 36

Woodland Delight 36

Pure Romance 37

Luxury Garden 37

Green Delight 37

Mood Boosting Scent 38

Energetic Day 38

Conclusion 39

Sources 41

3
Introduction

What Are Essential Oils?

If you ask experts like the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy to answer a
question like the one above, you will get a very lengthy and fascinating response.

On one hand, you learn that the word "essential" is actually derived from
"quintessential". That word originated with Aristotle (the ancient Greek scientist and
philosopher), who said that matter is made of four elements - earth, air, fire and water -
as well as a fifth element - quintessence.

4
What was quintessence according to Aristotle? It was the life force or spirit. So, the oils
taken from plants, trees, flowers or seeds had quintessence, or the spirit of that plant,
tree, flower, etc.

However, as time passed and science made more and more advances, processes for
removing the quintessence (distillation and evaporation), made it clear that we could
extract many different compounds from plants and other materials. This led to the
creation of distilled alcoholic beverages. Thus, they were first called "spirits" because of
the use of quintessence!

Move even farther ahead in time, to our present day, and we now know that the spirit of
a plant, root, piece of bark or other material is not a spirit, per se, but actually an
amazing oil that is made up of a unique and complex blend of natural compounds and
chemicals.

Essential oils, as we now know them have individual scents and these bring out unique
reactions in those who smell them. So, it is easy to say that Aristotle was not that far off
the mark when he described oils as having a life or spirit of their own. After all, you have
an entirely unique reaction to the scent of an oil, and might invigorate, relax, stimulate or
soothe…and that is a living, even spirited response.

For instance, you smell the essential oil of a rose and remember a day at a botanical
garden or of walking along the shore and enjoying the fragrance of the wild roses
nearby. You might smell another essential oil and love the smoky or exotic scent, and
this creates another response. There is spirit in essential oils, and it is why so many of
us want to learn how to safely and affordably use them to create perfumes or scents for
our homes.

In this guide, we'll learn just that - how to use them best, affordably, and safely in order
to make entirely unique and original perfumes.

5
First, we are going to consider the issue of safety, as it is a good idea to understand
why they may or may not be safe in the first place. We'll consider the gear you will need
in your home perfumery, and how to safely use it.

Then, we are going to look at what are known as "bases" for a perfume. After that, we
are going to delve into the structure of perfumes, learning all about "notes" in custom
fragrances. Then, we'll explore a few of the most common and popular essential oils
used in perfume making. Finally, we'll consider some recipes and cost-effective ways of
making "test batches".

Once you are finished reading this guide, you will be expert at small batch production of
affordable and delightful natural perfumes. You will understand how to use essential oils
safely and even have a thorough grasp on the "construction" of a more appealing
perfume. So, if you are ready, let's begin!

6
Chapter One

Safety and Essential Oils

Did you know that herb gardens grow more aromatic and flavorful if the soil is not overly
rich in nutrients? This is because tougher growing conditions often make the "volatile
oils" of the plants a bit stronger and even more condensed. Can you guess what those
volatile oils are? If you said they are the essential oils that the plants contain, you are
correct.

7
I mention this because it is a good way to begin understanding a key facet of essential
oil safety, which is that even therapeutic grade oils may be unsafe if not used in a
diluted form.

Essential oils are extracted in different ways that include processes such as enfleurage,
steam distillation, solvent extraction, and more. The end result is that you have a
concentrated essence, and this is full of different compounds. As we learn from one
expert, though, "concentrated substances are rarely intended for use 'as is' – and
essential oils are no different."

In a moment, we will look at dilution of essential oils, but first, we'll take a few moments
to understand precisely why dilution and caution are the best ways to remain safe when
using essential oils in custom perfumes.

As we just mentioned above, essential oils are not just a single ingredient but a blend of
different compounds. As explained by Experience Essential Oils: "There are two main
groups of essential oil constituents that define the chemistry of essential oil. They are
hydrocarbons and oxygenated compounds. These are further subdivided into sub-
groups…" Those sub-groups include materials like monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes,
phenolics (which actually stimulate the nervous system), alcohols, esters, aldehydes,
oxides and more.

Though many have therapeutic benefits in addition to their appealing aromas, they can
also cause other issues when they come into direct contact with the skin. For example,
photo toxicity is a real problem with some essential oils.

8
Photosensitivity and Photo Toxicity
To make it simple, there are several essential oils commonly used in perfume that
actually react to natural sunlight, sun lamps and any other forms of ultraviolet light. The
medical experts at Mayo Clinic explain that a photosensitive oil may cause "a pink or
red skin rash with blotchy blisters, scaly patches, or raised spots on areas directly
exposed to the sun. Itching and burning may occur and the rash may last for several
days. Dark pigmentation on the skin may occur as well. A phototoxic reaction typically
shows up as an exaggerated sunburn…"

What that means is very simple: to begin using essential oils as safely as possible, you
need to do a bit of research to understand if that oil is known for any sort of photo
sensitive reactions. The most common culprits include angelica, bergamot, grapefruit,
lemon, lime, orange, tangerine, and wild orange oils (though there may be others).

This does not mean you need to avoid using them. Instead, it is simply a matter of

a) Knowing they can cause this reaction,

b) Using the greatest dilution possible (while still enjoying the fragrance of the oil),
and

c) Avoiding sun or UV exposure within six hours of applying the oil.

Now, I just mentioned the term "dilution", and safe essential oil perfumes must look at
dilution in two ways.

The first is the dilution of the individual oils, and the second is the percentage of the
perfume that any specific oil provides. Let's look at the first form of dilution first, as the
second is really more about formulation and blending rather than a matter of safety.

9
Dilution and Essential Oil

Essential oil safety expert Lea Harris said: "Even essential oils with strong safety
concerns can be used safely if properly diluted. Knowing how to dilute properly will help
you use essential oils safely."

That means that oils with the risk of photo toxicity, such as bergamot (also known as
bee balm) oil can be used in perfumes. The trick is to know how to dilute oil in order to
lessen such issues as:

● Topical irritation

● Photo sensitivity

10
 ● Skin sensitivity

● Systemic toxicity (some oils may cause neurotoxicity and other similar problems
if used in their purest, undiluted forms)

In other words, you MUST learn how to dilute any oils before you apply them in order to
reduce or eliminate the risks for toxicity or adverse reactions. Unfortunately, there is not
a "one size fits all" approach to it. The information used to calculate dilutions involves
issues like:

● The toxicity (including photo toxicity) of the oils themselves

● Your level of skin sensitivity

● Any health issues you might have that might be affected by the properties of an
oil

● If you are pregnant or breastfeeding

It is not at all difficult to spend a bit of time researching any risks posed by specific oils.
However, you need to be very clear about any personal health issues or conditions that
would make a specific oil unsafe or risky to you in particular. For example, even when
diluted an oil may pose a risk to you if you have a certain condition.

Fortunately, there are not many oils that do pose such risks. It is simply that anyone
preparing to make their own perfumes should take the time to ensure none of the
ingredients chosen put them at risk for adverse reactions.

There are also a few general guidelines that apply to any use of essential oils. They
include:

11
● Always use the lowest dilution possible (this means less oil to carrier) in order to
get the best results. Not only does this keep you safer, but it also reduces any
chances of sensitization (which means you develop an immune response or
allergic reaction to repeated use of an oil)

● For blends of oils to be used on kids aged two to six (we do not recommend them
for children under two), a 0.25% dilution (which is four teaspoons of carrier oil to
a single drop of essential oil) is appropriate

● For blends of oils to be used on kids aged six and up, a 1% dilution (which is one
teaspoon of carrier oil to a single drop of essential oil - never to exceed six drops
per ounce of carrier) is appropriate

● For healthy adults, a 2% solution is considered safe (which is two drops of

essential oil to a teaspoon of carrier oil - never to exceed 12 drops per ounce of
carrier oil)

● If you are intending to use a 5% solution that is five drops per teaspoon. A 10%
solution is ten drops per teaspoon.

● If you are using the popular 5ml roller bottles for your perfume, and using just
one kind of essential oil, the dilutions would be one drop per the dilution desired.
For example, if you want a 1% solution, then use a single drop. A 3% solution is
three drops to the bottle of carrier oil, and so on. For 10ml bottles, the formula is
doubled; in other words, a 1% solution needs two drops, and a 3% solution
needs six.

● Always use therapeutic grade essential oils or blends as they are the safest and
highest quality available

12
Of course, we haven't actually explained just what it means to "dilute". Essential oils of
all kinds are diluted by adding drops of the essential oil to a larger amount of "carrier"
oil. This allows the oil to be spread over a more measurable area of the skin as well as
to be safely absorbed into the skin (which allows your perfume to remain in place much
longer). Do keep in mind that some essential oils have constituents that can be
absorbed into the skin by as much as 10%. So, it is of the utmost to know which oils
present the biggest risks.

Essential Oils Needing More Dilution

Some of the more volatile oils that require a bit more dilution for optimal safety include:

13
 Oil Safest Dilution to Use (Try never to use
a higher amount of essential oil)

Anise 1.75%

Basil 0.25%
Bergamot 0.4%
Bitter Orange 1.25%
Camphor 0.25%
Cinnamon 0.6%
Clove 0.6%
Grapefruit 4%
Laurel 0.5%
Lavender 0.1%
Lavender (Spanish) 8%
Lemon 2%
Lemongrass 0.7%
Lime 0.7%
Melissa 0.9%
Myrtle 0.9%
Peppermint 5.4%
Rose Absolute 2.5%
Rose Damask 0.6%
Sandalwood 2%
Spearmint 1.7%
Tea Tree 15%
Ylang-Ylang 0.8%

That is by no means a comprehensive list, but represents some of the most common
essential oils that present issues, and which are best when diluted to these amounts.

Patch Test for Safety

A good way to be sure you are using a safe dilution in any perfume you create is to do a
"patch test". This is done by combining one drop of any essential oil into a one teaspoon
of a carrier oil. Blend it with a swab and then apply just a light dab to your inner wrist.
14
Do not rub it in, and cover it with a Band-Aid or other waterproof bandage. Repeat this
to your inner elbow area, and leave both in place for 24 hours (unless you feel
discomfort or irritation).

If you have no discomfort or signs of irritation when you remove the bandages, then you
should be able to use that oil safely. If, however, any signs of irritation occur, and no
matter when it happens, wash the oil with soap and water immediately and avoid using
it in your custom blends.

You can also do patch tests at very specific dilution rates. For example, if you want to
see if you can comfortably and safely use one of the oils that requires more dilution, go
ahead and run a patch test at the dilution levels I indicated in the chart above.

For instance, if you want to see if you can safely use clove in your perfume blends, it
has to be at nothing more or less than the 0.5% dilution. That means that (no matter
what other oils you are using) you can only use the amount of clove essential oil that
would equal 0.5% dilution. So, you have a 10ml roller that you wish to use for a custom
perfume. It features a note of clove. Though it is a 10ml bottle, and other oils will be at
higher percentages in the blend, you cannot use anything more than a 0.5% dilution in
the mix. That is one drop for the entire 10ml bottle.

So, if running a patch test for clove essential oil, it has to be at that 0.5% dilution, and if
it irritates you at that level, run greater dilutions. For example, do a 0.4% dilution and
even a 0.1% dilution. If you always get a negative reaction it is best to avoid it in your
perfume mixtures.

15
Troubleshooting Dilution
You will hear that the universal dilution rate is 2% for daily use, but that is by no means
accurate for everyone. If you do use that dilution in one of your first blends, and you find
that it is irritating to you, there are several steps to take.

The first is to double check whether you did a patch test on individual oils to determine
their safety for your usage. If not, do a test!

Even oil that triggers a response may be able to be put to use if you dilute it enough.
While that may make your perfume blend less aromatic, it is still an option. If you
discover that the oil does not bother you at a higher dilution, you can take any earlier
blends and simply dilute them further with your carrier oil to avoid waste.
16
If you find you have used too much in a mixture, you have the basic percentages
available to just dilute it with carrier oil and make an enormous batch. The point to take
from this section on safety, though, is that you cannot use a formula safely if you have
used a dilution that is not strong enough.

The only way to safely use an essential oil that causes a reaction at lesser dilutions is to
"water it down" with enough carrier oil. Your goal is to keep all of the percentages of
other components in balance, and simply weaken the impact of the problematic oil. This
may not always be possible. It is why patch testing and researching possible issues are
two of the best steps when developing your perfumes.

A great rule of thumb with essential oils and perfumes is the old "less is more"
approach. If you are willing to use high dilution rates and go for subtler hints, you may
be able to use even some of the more challenging oils.

Troubleshooting Essential Oil Safety

Now you know how to test yourself for safety with any specific essential oil. You also
know that there is no way to water down an oil that has components that irritate your
skin or body. What happens, though, if you accidentally get oils in your eyes or mouth?

This is a very important issue because any essential oil (even the safer therapeutic
grade oils) are highly concentrated and potent. With just a few drops required to get
optimal effects, it means they can be very volatile when in touch with mucus
membranes.

If the oils contact the eye, you need to immediately dilute the essential oil. This
CANNOT be done with water. It requires the use of a safe and neutral carrier oil to

17
dilute the volatile essential oil. Use a bit of olive, coconut or light vegetable oil on a soft
cotton cloth and gently wipe the eye, repeating until the oil is diluted.

If the oils are accidentally ingested, such as inadvertently swallowing some, it requires
the use of milk, yogurt, honey or cream to dilute the oils in the stomach. If it is a child
who has done this, get in touch with poison control. Even adults need to address the
issue with proper medical follow up.

If undiluted oils sit on the skin, it may lead to a burning sensation or irritation. Again,
water is not helpful. You need to use your carrier oil on a saturated cloth to wipe the
essential oil from the skin, repeating until the irritation is done. Then, you can wash the
area with gentle soap and warm water.

Proper handling of essential oils is a common sense issue. One of the biggest blunders
people make when first using essential oils to make their own perfumes is to forget that
the oils may cling to the skin of the fingertips or even the surface of a glove. Any contact
with the eyes, noise, mouth or skin can cause a response. Because of this, any
workspace in which you will be using essential oils should have a bottle of carrier oil on
hand for emergency use at all times.

With mention of your work space, it is now time to turn our attention to the matter of
essential oil safety and the gear you will need to begin making perfumes.

18
Equipment Needed

The equipment needed to begin safely making affordable and entirely custom perfumes
is quite minimal, but each item listed is an essential. You can start to whip up batches of
perfume on a kitchen or dining room table, a spacious counter or a full-blown work
table. You will want to have access to secure storage, such as a cupboard with doors to
keep everything out of the direct light and safely out of the reach of children.

19
Because some of the gear is made of glass, it is another reason to have a space where
children or pets are unable to get themselves into any trouble or harm's way.

A basic list of supplies includes:

● Gloves - As these are important for protecting the skin

● A smock or apron - Though essential oils may cause staining, the strong aromas
can also cling to garments, ruining them

● Essential oils - It is best to purchase the therapeutic grade oils in dark glass
bottles. They should have firmly closing lids and be clearly labeled

● Blending bottles - These will be the bottles that your final perfumes are stored in,
and you will want to choose them for esthetics but also ease of use. Make sure
they have a wide enough neck for your droppers, and even choose some with
droppers built into the lids if you like to dab perfume on the skin

● Glass droppers or reducer caps will make measuring out your oils much easier

● Test strips - These are often also called fragrance test strips and they allow you
to compare certain combinations. They can also be used to measure how a
specific perfume "ages" when exposed to the air. Cotton balls work well as test
strips if you don't want the added expense

● Journal - I highly recommend keeping a pen and pad nearby. Why? You always
(read that as ALWAYS) want to jot down just what you are doing in terms of
percentages of oils in each batch. There is a huge difference in aroma between
one and two drops, and when you might be using three or more oils, you can
easily forget what you did. This is not what you want when you create a "dream"
batch that you can then never quite get right again!

20
 ● Work table or plastic table cloth - Oils will soak into wood, so if you are using a
dining or kitchen table, get yourself a cloth that is finished with a surface easily
wiped clean.

● Funnels - If you are going to make larger batches in larger bottles and then pour
them into smaller, prettier bottles, you'll want appropriately sized, metal funnels to
make short work of it

● Stirrer - A glass stirrer is a good investment if you are making larger batches

● Emergency supplies - Keep soft cotton cloths and a bottle of carrier oil on hand
at all times. This is to help you if you should get any undiluted essential oil in your
eyes, nose, mouth or on the skin.

So, you know what essential oils are and you are clear about safety. You have a good
list of items to use as you put together your work space. That means it is now time to
learn about actually making perfumes with essential oils.

21
Chapter Two

Getting Started with Perfume Making

Whether your perfumery is in your kitchen, spare bedroom or bath, or a formal

workshop, you need to understand the steps required to actually "build" an appealing
perfume. To do that means using that neutral base or carrier. You can opt for water
based carriers such as aloe vera, witch hazel or a natural lotion.

However, it is usually better to go with actual oil. Something along the lines of jojoba,
sweet almond, apricot kernel, argan oil, tamanu, avocado, Evening Primrose,
grapeseed or fractionated coconut oil will enjoy a shelf life of up to one year, and last

22
longer on the skin. You can also consider butters like shea butter, cocoa butter and
kombo butter.

They will not contribute any fragrance, but simply serve to help you disperse the
perfume over the skin and allow it to remain in place longer.

The carrier is the foundation on which you will build the perfume, and this is usually
going to involve the use of "notes".

The Issue of Scent Notes

Whether you see perfume making as building something or more like composing
something, such as a piece of music, you need to take "scent notes" into consideration.
These are the different aromas and properties of the oils that, when properly combined,
convey the "message" or "melody" of the perfume.

Notes fall into three categories:

● Top

● Middle

● Base

Before we look at them individually, it is important to understand that a single essential

oil can have all three notes, or at least components of them. Yet, oils are also often
grouped by their "dominant" note. This is how you can begin to choose oils for your
perfumes. Let's figure that out a bit more by looking closely at each of the notes.

23
Top Notes
Whatever the first impression you get from an individual oil or a perfume is, that is the
"top" note. So, even if a perfume has a name that says floral, it might have a top note of
citrus or something "greener". It is the sharpest most immediate scent, but it actually
does not remain so as you inhale the scent a bit more deeply.

Common top notes include anise, basil, laurel, bergamot, eucalyptus, grapefruit,
lavender, lemon, lime, lemongrass, orange, peppermint, and tangerine.

Middle Notes
Also called the body notes, this is the "heart" or any fragrance or oil. It is the portion of
the scent that seems to emerge behind that first, top note scent. A rose scented
perfume, for example, has a strong middle note of rose or floral scents.

Common middle notes include bay, chamomile, cinnamon, clary sage, clove, cypress,
fir, geranium, jasmine, juniper, neroli, pine, rose, rosewood, tea tree, yarrow, and ylang
ylang.

Base Notes
These are those heavier, sometimes earthier scents that seem to give a perfume a bit of
added depth or character. It is actually the component of scent that lingers the longest.
So, a perfume that has a woodland design might feature a sandalwood or patchouli
scent at the base, and it would linger on the skin hours after the other components
faded.

Common base notes include angelica, balsam, Cedarwood, frankincense, ginger,

myrrh, patchouli, sandalwood, and vanilla

24
How do you begin to blend these notes? There are no fixed rules about this process,
and that is one of the things that makes crafting perfumes from essential oils such fun.
However, there is a bit more to know before you begin mixing them up. For example,
there are "aroma types" that professional perfumers use to guide their choices.

Aroma Types

As soon as you start opening bottles of essential oils and thinking about a blend, it can
become very confusing. To save on waste and begin designing perfumes ideal for your
tastes and personal style, it is often very helpful to think about the common "aroma
types" used by professional perfumers. They include:

25
 ● Citrus - Think lemon, bergamot, lemongrass, and grapefruit among other citrus
oils

● Earthy - Think valerian, angelica, patchouli and oak moss

● Floral - Think rose, lavender, geranium, and jasmine.

● Herbaceous - These are greener scents like basil, clary sage, thyme, tea tree
and rosemary

● Spicy - Think cloves and cinnamon, ginger, and anise

● Woody - These are often bottom notes like fir, cypress, sandalwood, myrrh and
juniper

It is entirely acceptable to blend aroma types together, and some of the most effective
combinations include floral oils with citrus, spicy or woody. Citrus pairs well with
herbaceous and spicy oils, while woody oils work well with all other types. Herbaceous
oils work with citrus and woody scents, too.

If you are still struggling to begin building your first perfume, it is helpful to ask yourself
some basic questions about your scent preferences. For example:

Would you prefer a spicy or herbal scent?

Are you more of a floral fan?

What is the first scent you think of when you consider your "favorite"? Is it that fresh cut
grass, that smoky fire in the winter, the scent of a meadow after a rain or the light aroma
of the sea? Start itemizing the scents you like and then reverse engineer them by aroma
type. Then use that to identify the oils that seem like the most likely components.

26
How? By performing an "organoleptic" test. This is a fancy way of taking deep whiffs of
possible candidates. Let's explore just how that is done. When you are adept at this,
you will want to select from three to five oils for your first perfume.

The Organoleptic or Deep Sniff Test

If you remember in the section about notes, we learned that any oil can easily fit into
multiple scent notes. This means you need to become very familiar with all of the notes
in any specific oil. While I might say a word like "basil" to you and you'll instantly recall
what you think the smell of basil is, the reality is that there is much more to that scent.

27
To detect and understand its depth, you need to do an organoleptic test on your bottle
of essential basil oil. It is a very simple process:

● Put a drop of oil on a test strip or cotton ball. Place it close to your nose and take
a long, slow and deep inhalation of the aroma. You can also just allow the scent
to reach you as you hold the strip or cotton in front of you.

● Close your eyes as you inhale the scent and take a few moments to jot down or
make mental notes (I suggest writing it down) of the feelings, thoughts, or ideas
that the aroma brings to your mind.

● Set aside the strip or cotton ball for ten to 30 minutes. Be sure you do not linger
nearby. The point is to clear out your olfactory senses and then re-test the aroma
a bit later. Is the scent still strong? Is it faded? Use what you know of the aroma
types to categorize the scent. Is it herbaceous and green? Maybe it is citrusy and
light? Perhaps it is a strong woody and mossy scent? Make detailed notes.

● Make notes about the way that scent makes you feel emotionally and physically.
Is it relaxing or invigorating? Did it open airways or make you salivate? Be very
clear about your response to that one oil.

Once you have done this with the oils you think might be ideal for your perfume, try to
identify which should be at the top, the middle and the base. If you have never made a
perfume before, try to limit your choices to three the first time around.

Keep in mind that you can also test out your oils individually by diluting them with a
carrier oil. For example, you can add one drop of essential oil to four drops of your
carrier oil (making a 20% dilution). You can repeat it a 10% and all of the way down to
only the slightest percentage in the carrier. This can also help you track the potency of
your preferred essential oils and is very useful when you start integrating five or more
oils per perfume blend.
28
The More Common Essential Oils Used

Did you know that there are thousands of essential oils and yet only a handful are
regularly used to make batches of custom perfume? They are usually divided into the
notes. So let's begin with the most common base notes and work our way to the "top".

The base notes are those that give depth to the scent, grounding it as it were, and you
will find that many use:

● Balsam de Peru - This is warm with accents of cinnamon and ideal to accompany
a floral note

● Patchouli - Incredibly strong, a tiny amount can add a lovely rich fragrance that
many will be unable to place but which will recognize as an earthy and musky
accent

● Sandalwood - Iconic and warm, it may seem masculine, but it works beautifully in
any blends thanks to its richer and deeper aromas

● Vetiver - This is one of the most common base notes and is sure to become part
of your repertoire. It is rich but not overwhelming and adds a wonderfully spicy
woody note

29
The middle notes give your blends the body they deserve, and can counteract any
unpleasant elements within a base note. For example, people who dislike patchouli on
its own find that the right middle notes give it a far more appealing character. Some
reliable middle notes include:

● Geranium - Greener and uniquely floral, it is light and works beautifully with all of
the base notes above

● Jasmine - A distinctly floral scent, it is actually quite exotic when paired with
woody notes above or below

30
 ● Neroli - This is an orange tree blossom that is delicate and light, and works well
for both men and women. Paired with patchouli or sandalwood, it is a wonderfully
uplifting scent

● Rose - At the heart of many fragrances is the rose and whether diluted with a
woody or spicy base or paired with brighter and lighter florals, it is remarkably
appealing

● Ylang ylang - This is that scent that leaves many wondering "what is that scent…I
know it…" It is strong and distinctly floral, but is best used with a very light hand.

The most common top notes are the ones with a lot of pop and "wow" behind them.
Light and brisk, they are what can make you lean in for a deeper whiff of the perfume.
Think "first impression" with the top notes, and choose from these common favorites:

● Bergamot - One of the most familiar scents, it blends well with almost any other
note and is a nice, light and citrus aroma

● Carnation absolute - This is a scent that you can often wear almost on its own
thanks to its multiple notes of spicy and floral components. It is a very costly oil
best used with a light hand.

● Lavender - Another long-standing favorite, it is energetic and bright. Pair it with

other floral scents or citrus notes to savor a clean and refreshing perfume.

● Mandarin - A citrus oil with a light floral accent, it is deeper than many top notes
and good with much stronger lower notes

● Sweet orange - Brighter and less cloying than orange on its own, it is a
lighthearted aroma for more youthful or springtime scents.

31
Whether you opt for these oils or choose some of your own favorites, it is now the time
to begin creating your first, signature perfume using quality essential oils.

Building Your First Perfume

Once you have an idea of where the scents you've chosen belong in term of notes, you
also have to think about the strength of the individual oils. For example, you might
decide to use chamomile along with lavender. Because one is so much stronger than
the other (chamomile easily dominates lavender), you cannot use equal amounts of
each.

So, how do you even begin to figure out how to blend oils to get balance? I suggest that
every perfume you make begins with a small, test batch. And I even suggest you make
test strips prior to test batches.

To make test strips, just take each of the oils you have chosen and put one drop on
each of the strips. Let them dry, and then fan the air beneath your nose with the three
strips held together. This is going to let you know if you should up the percentage of one
or more of the oils. You can then use one drop on one strip of the oil in question, and
after it has dried, add it to the "fan".

Note on the strips the top note, middle note and bottom note, and .keep tweaking the
combination. However, try to aim for a cap of ten drops in total. Why? Because the most
basic formula for perfumes follows a note distribution of 30-50-20 percent. In practice, it
would look like this:

● Three drops of the top note

● Five drops of the middle note

32
 ● Two drops of the base note

Don't just use that formula because it was suggest, though. Start with those test strips
featuring one of each. Then add to the different notes until you feel you have it right. If it
works out to a different ratio, that's fine…have fun and trust yourself.

Then it is time to make an official test batch.

Making Test Batches

Up until this point, you have made preliminary tests of different blends. When you think
you have found the right mixture for your needs, it is time to make a test batch. You can

33
stick to that ten drop approach, but this time, you need to put them into a glass bottle
and allow it to rest for a few days.

You can then use your chosen carrier oil and make a dilution. I suggest a 20% dilution
when doing test batches, which is four drops of your blend to one drop of oil. Put this on
a test strip and see how it affects you. Go ahead and do a 10% dilution, and even all of
the way down to a 2% solution.

Keep clear and accurate notes about every single step as this is only going to help you
later on. For example, let's say you are working on a springtime perfume that you want
to have light woody and floral accents. You find that you love bergamot but discover that
it is too potent if used undiluted. You also learned (from the lesson on safety) that it has
to be at a 0.4% dilution for optimal safety. You need to first make that dilution and then
make notes about how that works with stronger aromas.

Once you have a formula that you like, you can then create a regular batch and bottle it.
This is done by simply multiplying your formula by a specific number. For example,
multiply the ten-drop formula by two and cut it with three tablespoons of carrier oil.

If you are still stumped by the whole process of choosing your custom blends, the final
chapter provides some very popular and common blends used by those who make their
own perfumes safely and affordably thanks to essential oils.

34
Chapter Three

Perfume Recipes

The following recipes don't necessarily adhere to the recommended 30-50-20 formulas.
However, if you analyze them, you would now have the knowledge to recognize the top
notes, middle notes, base notes, aroma types and more!

Try making a few batches today and begin "tweaking" them to your tastes or
preferences. Each uses 20 drops of essential oil and is meant to be blended with 50ml
of your preferred carrier oil. If you want to make smaller batches, use 10ml of carrier oil
and ten drops of essential oil.
35
Floral and Spice
● 1 drop ylang-ylang

● 2 drops nutmeg

● 2 drops vanilla

● 3 drops clove

● 12 drops lavender

Men's Scent
● 4 drops sandalwood

● 5 drops bergamot

● 11 drops cedarwood

Woodland Delight
● 2 drops rosemary

● 3 drops peppermint

● 6 drops cedarwood

● 9 drops sweet orange

36
Pure Romance
● 5 drops vetiver

● 5 drops lemongrass

● 10 drops rose

Luxury Garden
● 2 drop anise

● 2 drop jasmine

● 4 drops bergamot

● 4 drops sandalwood

● 8 drops geranium

Green Delight
● 2 drop peppermint

● 4 drops basil

● 4 drops pine

● 4 drops rosemary

● 6 drops vetiver

37
Mood Boosting Scent
● 12 drops bergamot

● 4 drops grapefruit

● 4 drops ylang ylang

Energetic Day
● 8 drops peppermint

● 4 drops frankincense

38
 ● 8 drops lemon

Conclusion

You now know how to safely use therapeutic grade essential oils to make affordable
and unique perfumes. It is one of the most enjoyable hobbies imaginable, and soon you
can create scents that inspire you, energize you, soothe you or make you feel however
you want.

Save a lot of money, use only the healthiest ingredients, and enjoy the long lasting
benefits that millions of people have gained from the wonders of essential oils. Just
remember to set up your workspace and keep excellent notes. You may find others

39
asking you about your scents and even begin earning a small income from your
wonderfully unique creations! Good luck!

40
Sources

http://www.usingeossafely.com/diluting-essential-oils-safely-safe-dilution-guidelines-for-
all-ages/

https://naha.org/explore-aromatherapy/about-aromatherapy/what-are-essential-oils

http://www.experience-essential-oils.com/chemistry-of-essential-oil.html

https://www.growingupherbal.com/blending-essential-oils-for-beginners/

http://info.achs.edu/blog/blending-101-the-art-of-pairing-essential-oils-drop-by-drop

http://www.naturallivingideas.com/blending-essential-oils/

http://www.aromaweb.com/articles/aromaticblending.asp

https://thebestorganicskincare.com/10-stunning-perfume-oil-recipes-smell-great-in-5-
minutes

http://www.experience-essential-oils.com/mixing-essential-oils.html

https://michelesorganics.wordpress.com/2013/04/08/organic-perfumery-the-sensuality-
of-essential-oils-my-sexiest-picks/

41