Cosmeticsandtoiletries201709 DL

September 2017
New Ideas
on Hair Breakage
Extending Antidote for Aging

Crosses Cultures
the Palette
for Ethnic Skin
Clarity, Viscosity
and Perfume Oil Align
WANT MORE?
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
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Cover Story Contents
September 2017 | Volume 132, number 8
Digital Edition Exclusives

8 [podcast] Understanding Aging in Hair
with Alison Pawlus, Ph.D.
Aveda/The Estée Lauder Companies
DE1 5 Drivers of Multicultural Skin Care

Direct Consumer Insights
by E. Morris
DE5 Expanded Foundation and

Color Formulary
54
In Every Issue
6 Editor’s Note: Blowing You Away
by R. Grabenhofer
8 Industry Insight: Understanding

Aging in Hair
72 Ad Index
Market Intelligence
10 Technology Launches
Regulatory
12 Canada’s ‘High’ Hopes for
Regulatory Reform
34
Cannabis Legislation Sparks Debate
by R. Ross-Fichtner and A. Schwanke
46
Research
16 Breaking Through, Part I
Physical Ingredient Delivery
by M. Rule and H.I. Maibach, M.D.
20 Opportunity in Diversity
Formulating for the Multiethnic Market
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
24 Solution Evolution
CER as a Universal Surfactant Balance Descriptor
by R. Gee
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017
CT1709_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 2 8/22/17 3:54 PM

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Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents EDITORIAL
Director Jo-El M. Grossman
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editors Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com
Brooke Schleehauf | 630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com
Lisa Schryver | 630-344-6068/lschryver@allured.com
Digital/Social Media Editor Audrey Latimer | 1-630-344-6067/alatimer@allured.com
Research Analyst Nicole Urbanowicz | 1-630-344-6053/nurbanowicz@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager/
C&T Summit Exhibits
& Sponsorships Tom Harris | 1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com
Business Development Manager
Fragrance Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
62
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Marie Galvan
Marketing Assistant Alyssa Derby
Customer Service 1-888-355-5962/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
DESIGN
Graphic Design Manager Lisa Hede
Graphic Designer James Fergus
Testing
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
EVENTS
Group Show Director Maria Prior | 1-630-344-6065/mprior@allured.com
34 Antidote for Aging Show Manager Brittany Peck | 1-630-344-6073/bpeck@allured.com
Synthetic Viper Venom
Smooths Over a Cross-cultural Concern CORPORATE
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
by R. Campiche, et al.
Partner & CEO George Fox
Controller Linda Getner
46 New Ideas on Breakage Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
Mending Existing Flaws
by T.A. Evans, Ph.D.
OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
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62 Blue Sky Thinking Flavorcon
Star Polymer Aligns Clarity with Viscosity for

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Vol. 132, No. 1 | January 2017
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Editor’s Note | C&T ®
Blowing You Away

The winds of change have stoked a fire beneath what generally has been considered a niche
market segment: multicultural beauty. Why? Some analysts point to advances in education
and growing disposable incomes in the middle class, boosting the purchasing power of ethnic
consumers. Research also has uncovered biological differences—targets with potential to
develop racially-focused skin and hair care.
The world’s demographic itself has shifted, too, which has fragmented the way traditionally
homogenous consumer groups self-identify, as far as ethnicity, tradition, environment and
even religion. Interestingly, as some marketers have realized, these ultra-individualized
preferences present an especially specialized opportunity within customized personal care.
Diversity, I believe, is worth celebrating, while also acknowledging our shared,
fundamentally human traits. The current issue of Cosmetics & Toiletries does both, starting
with Steventon’s article, on Page 20, which explores differences in biology, with an added
focus on black skin. Campiche et al., on Page 34, address the shared concern of aging, with
a study on synthetic viper venom for anti-wrinkle effects—and how the efficacy of this active
varies across skin types. Evans, on Page 46, presents a novel view on hair breakage; which,
while more prevalent in African hair, is another issue that knows no racial bounds.
And Singh, with his primer on color science, on Page 54, provides
formulating advice to extend the palette of shaded cosmetics.
Finally, Lin et al., on Page 62, address another trait we all
share: sensory experience. Most consumers would agree fragrance
impacts their like or dislike of a product. Here, the authors
describe a polymer that enables high fragrance oil levels in
surfactant systems yet maintains viscosity and clarity.
We hope this collection on multicultural beauty care, among
other great articles, does more than just breathe a little life and
inspiration into your cosmetic product development; we hope it Rachel L. Grabenhofer
blows you away. C&T Managing Editor
CT1709_Editors_Note_fcx.indd 6 8/22/17 1:09 PM

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Scientific Advisory Industry Insight | C&T ®
Board
Understanding Aging in Hair

Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D. Aging is a common denominator across not just cultures
Dermatology but substrates. Here, Alison Pawlus, Ph.D., of Aveda,
Consulting Services
describes a test based on cell senescence to measure the
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D. effects of aging in hair and identify ways to mitigate them.
Pfizer Consumer Healthcare
This excerpt is adapted from a podcast. To hear more,
Trefor Evans, Ph.D. visit CosmeticsandToiletries.com/multimedia.
C&T: What can senescence reveal about hair aging?

TA Evans LLC
S. Peter Foltis
L’Oréal
Pawlus: The study of senescence has really
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D. expanded our knowledge and understanding of
Atlantic Coast Media Group what happens in general during aging. For example,
when cells are exposed to a moderate amount of
Shuzo Ishidate, Ph.D.
Shiseido Research Center damage—not enough so they die but enough so they
don’t proliferate—these nonproliferating cells linger,
Karl Laden, Ph.D. enlarging and secreting a host of damaging mol-
Alpa Cosmetics ecules, including pro-inflammatory agents.
The hair follicle is a highly metabolically active
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D.
Johnson & Johnson organ. It’s constantly producing melanin, which is
what gives hair its color. But during this process,
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D. hydrogen peroxide is created as a by-product. Nor-
Procter & Gamble
mally this is okay; the body can detoxify it. But as
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D. we age, we become more susceptible to the oxidative
Coty-Lancaster damage it causes.
In our research, we’re using low doses of hydrogen
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
peroxide to induce senescence in the hair follicle,
Industrial Consulting Research
which mimics aging by causing changes in color,
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D. shape, etc. One thing we look at is dermal papilla
LVMH Recherche cells, which are the command centers of the hair
follicles. By repeat dosing with hydrogen peroxide,
Ron Sharpe
Amway we induce senescence in these cells in order to study
natural ingredients that could potentially reduce
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D. these effects. This approach is easily measurable and,
Consultant we believe, more biologically relevant.
David C. Steinberg
Steinberg & Associates C&T: What findings have you made?
Peter Tsolis Pawlus: Because we’ve screened so
The Estée Lauder Companies many actives and we’re experts in natu-
Alison Pawlus, Ph.D.
rals, here at Aveda, we know what we’re
Russel Walters, Ph.D. Research Scientist for
Johnson & Johnson looking for in regards to chemistry. We’ve
Hair Innovation and Technology
started to see some patterns emerge, for
Claudie Willemin
Aveda/The Estée Lauder Co.
example, in actives known as phase II
L’Oréal
enzyme inducers. These plant extracts
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D. can nontoxically induce the body’s own
Unilever enzymes for an antioxidant
response. One of the plants
we’re really excited about is C&T Webcasts
Withania somnifera, or ashwa- Hear the full podcast with Alison Pawlus at
gandha—one of the most widely www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/multimedia
used medicinal plants in the

ayurvedic tradition.
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Regulatory | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Canada is preparing for a regulatory overhaul
that could replace outdated rules and
classifications with one category:
"Consumer Health Products."
• Cannabis-containing products also face

trailblazing reform as countries and
states disagree on the controversial
ingredient's legality.
Canada’s ‘High’ Hopes

North American Regulatory Review
for Regulatory Reform

Cannabis Legislation Sparks Debate
Robert Ross-Fichtner and

Anna Schwanke
Focal Point Research, Inc.
Mississauga, Ontario
T he year 2018 could be a big one for regulatory

reform in Canada—the country’s government
is considering two massive changes that could
reverberate well beyond its borders and have
global implications.
The first is a complete revamp of its regula-
tions pertaining to cosmetics, over-the-counter (OTC) drugs and
Natural Health Products. The second is the legalization of cannabis.
While these two areas of regulation are vastly different, they high-
light the fast-moving challenges faced by industry regulators around
the world.
Reproduction in English or any other language of

12 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017
© 2017 Allured Business Media.
CT1709_Regulatory_Fichtner_fcx.indd 12 8/21/17 11:15 AM

One of the most vexing issues when
anticipating regulatory change is the question
of what will happen until change is enacted.
Change in Canada Regulatory Smokescreen

The aim of all regulatory reform is to take In parallel, few consumer products have
outdated rules and hammer them into a new received more red-hot debate than cannabis.
shape that more accurately reflects today’s real- Canada’s plans to legalize it in 2018 would
ity. Health Canada—the federal organization make it the first country in the Group of Twenty
responsible for drugs, Natural Health Products (G20) to do so. Looking around the world,
and cosmetics—accurately assessed the current cannabis legislation varies tremendously;
rules for these categories as being woefully out depending on jurisdiction, it is legal, illegal,
of date. Anyone who has dealt with sunscreen decriminalized and/or allowed for medical use.
drugs in Canada will know that the cost and Even more confusing, its status federally can be
lead times to get these products to market are different than its status in states or provinces,
completely unreasonable, and are in fact barri- including local regions. Canadians travelling
ers to trade and innovation. to the United States are often asked by U.S.
Regulators everywhere face the task of Homeland Security whether they have ever
determining where products in these categories used cannabis. If the answer is yes, they can be
fit—one of the big debates is where cosmetics denied entry for life. And yet, cannabis has been
end and drugs begin. The United States has legalized in a variety of U.S. states, and decrimi-
dealt with this by accepting some products nalized in others.
as cosmetics, some as drugs and some as a The Government of Canada has committed
combination of the two. But the reality is, to legalizing cannabis during the year 2018.
these classifications themselves are out of date. The resulting firestorm of debate is typical of
Many of the regulations we live with today were what has happened elsewhere. At the heart of
developed in the 1930s ... a lot has changed the debate is the assessment for the potential
since then. risk this poses. It has already been legalized
Canada’s proposed approach is revolution- for medical use, and 42 companies now have
ary. It takes aim at cosmetics, OTC drugs and Health Canada authorization to produce medi-
Natural Products as a group, and then builds cal cannabis; doctor’s offices are lined up with
regulations based on the risk that a product patients looking for prescriptions for a wide
poses. In Canada today, a product containing variety of ailments.
a sunscreen active ingredient can be sold as a
cosmetic, OTC drug or Natural Health Prod-
uct. As a result, some products require only a
notification, some require formal pre-approval,
some require import licenses and some take Cannabis legalization has built a new market
almost a year to wind through a regulatory for personal care and other products, with a
maze designed for serious drugs. The proposed projected 25% increase in legal sales to $6.7
approach would eliminate these outdated billion in 2016.
classifications and bring these categories
together under a single name: “Consumer
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry
Health Products.”
(www.GCImagazine.com)
Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13

North American Regulatory Review
Beyond that, the illegal market is mas- not leave the skin feeling greasy. It is high
sive, its recreational use is widespread and in protein as well, which makes it a popular
an attempt at regulation is very much after- additive to hair and nail care products, such as
the-fact. On the other side, there is significant shampoos and hand lotions. Hemp frequently
concern about use by minors, and driving while appears in fragrance products, body washes
impaired. Then there are those who maintain and lip balms, too.
cannabis is a gateway drug to more serious As more areas around the world legalize
substances. But with a legal cannabis market cannabis use, more products are appearing that
forecast to reach a staggering $22 billion utilize the leaves of the plant, which contain
Canadian dollars in a country with only 35 mil- tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) and cannabidiol
lion people, lucrative taxation possibilities and (CBD). These therapeutic compounds have
innovative business opportunities are compel- analgesic, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant
ling forces.1 properties.2, 3 This places the ingredient in a
Cannabis derivatives are already in wide use key pioneering role for anti-aging and sun
in the consumer products industry. The fiber protection products, which have been recently
parts of the plant—the stems and seeds—are approved by Health Canada, the FDA and the
legal substances with which to manufacture European Commission’s Cosmetics Products
products in Canada, the United States and Notification Portal.4, 5
the European Union. This fibrous material, Massage oils and other innovative
or hemp, contains less than 0.3% therapeutic applications are also incorporating the ingredi-
compounds. Hemp seed oil is also a popular ent—these products are intended for topical
ingredient in cosmetics because it is rich in use and are not designed to penetrate the
fatty acids but considered a “dry” oil that does skin or enter the bloodstream in significant

amounts. Furthermore, interest in the benefits manufactured in Vancouver, British Columbia,
of cannabis-based topicals for acne, psoriasis, and shipped almost 4,000 miles across the
eczema and other skin conditions is driving country to Halifax, Nova Scotia, without any
research. And as a dietary supplement, “medici- kind of retesting. But if a sunscreen is manufac-
nal smoothie” products are also on the horizon. tured in Niagara Falls, New York, and shipped
However, THC- and CBD-containing dietary a few miles across the bridge to Niagara Falls,
supplements are not currently authorized for Ontario, it must be quarantined, retested and
sale in the United States by the FDA.6 again QC released.
There are, of course, strong parallels in the
Sparking Debate United States. Cannabis remains enormously
Canada’s proposed rules for Consumer controversial and the nation is divided on
Health Products have also ignited a fierce legalization and decriminalization. In terms of
debate. There are obvious reasons to move in cosmetic legislation, there is tremendous energy
this direction, but also concerns. Canada’s rules to establish a much stronger federal oversight
for Natural Health Products are new, dating by the FDA and to pre-empt state-by-state regu-
back just 13 years. This regulatory process was lations. But while individual countries try to
broken when it first began—products submitted chart a course on these complicated issues, the
to Health Canada for approval languished in the issue of travel and commerce between nations
system for years. Massive improvements have looms large.
taken place since then, and the current regula- What will the implications be for Canadians
tory oversight for this category works smoothly. traveling to a U.S. state where cannabis is
Products such as herbal supplements have illegal? Where will cannabis-based cosmetics,
been granted approval based on historic refer- Natural Health Products and drugs fall on the
ences, not just current scientific research … risk spectrum under Canada’s new regulatory
but that could change. Cost recovery fees system? What will the trade implications be of
could also be imposed on these products, as Canada’s Consumer Health Products legisla-
they currently are for drugs. Not surprisingly, tion—because these products will be regulated
stakeholders in this category are girding for very differently than in the United States?
a fight. The fact is, the rules for OTC drugs Governments, industry and consumers must
are dysfunctional, while the rules for Natural now hold their breath as we wait to see what
Health Products are functional. The simplest fix these changes will bring.
would be simply to bring OTC drug rules in line
with those for Natural Health Products. References
When anticipating regulatory change, one of 1. T Schufelt, High Ambitions, The Globe & Mail B12
the most vexing issues is the question of what (Jul 1, 2017)
will happen until changes are enacted. With 2. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/644019
cannabis, recreational use is still illegal, trap- (Accessed Jul 14, 2017)
ping consumers in the criminal justice system 3. pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/16078
and its implications. For law enforcement and (Accessed Jul 14, 2017)
the courts, this costs billions of dollars and 4. businessnews.com.au/article/MGC-Pharma-signs-new-

cannabis-cosmetics-wholesalers-in-Europe
overloads a justice system already creaking (Accessed Jul 25, 2017)
under the strain.
5. nextbiotech.com.au/fda-approval-mxc-sales-doors-open-
While waiting for regulatory change to us-euro-canadian-markets/ (Accessed Jul 25, 2017)
Consumer Health Products, the cosmetics 6. fda.gov/newsevents/publichealthfocus/ucm421168.
industry suffers from the onerous require- htm#dietary_supplements (Accessed Jul 14, 2017)
ments of OTC drugs. To import sunscreens or
acne remedies, which are classified as drugs in
Canada, it takes 250 days to modify the import C&T Daily Newsletter
license for a new manufacturer. The products
Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
must be subjected to International Conference delivered straight to your inbox every day!
of Harmonization (ICH) stability requirements
and tested every time they cross the border into http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
Canada. Remarkably, a sunscreen drug can be

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Actives are delivered into skin by physical
and chemical penetration routes, such as via
microneedling or penetration enhancers.
• This first of two columns introduces physical

means of skin delivery; part two will address
chemical penetration.
A Dermatological View
Breaking Through, Part I

Physical Ingredient Delivery*
*Adapted with permission from M Rule, K Saliesh, T Haw-Yueh, H Zhai and HI Maibach, Percutaneous Penetration Enhancers: An
T
Overview, in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 4th edn, CRC Press, Boca Raton, FL (2014) pp 141-156
Mike Rule and

Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
University of California he first seminar on in vivo human skin penetration
San Francisco was presented to a major international skin care
company in 1972—and at the end of the talk, the
convening scientist stated (quietly) that this informa-
tion was irrelevant since cosmetic ingredients do
not penetrate.
In the following decades, much has changed; it is now generally accepted
that many or most low molecular weight cosmetic ingredients penetrate

CT1709_Rsrch_Maibach_fcx.indd 16 8/21/17 11:27 AM

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Asia-Pacific
Call: +65 6336 6286
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A Dermatological View
Physical delivery works,

so it remains to be seen why the industry
has yet to fully embrace it.
skin. As such, today’s questions revolve more Energized delivery: Iontophoresis uses a
around delivery mechanisms, quantification small electrical charge to noninvasively pro-
and interpretation.1 pel charged particles of a desired active into
This two-part column describes penetration the skin. Sonophoresis, on the other hand,
enhancers for the active (physical) and pas- uses low-frequency ultrasound to increase
sive (chemical) delivery of chemicals through the permeability of skin, allowing agents of
the skin. The present installment serves as interest to penetrate. The breaches created by
an introduction to active methods such as these methods are on the order of nanometers,
iontophoresis—a technique that dates back to permitting the transport of only small drugs.2
in vivo rabbit data in the 19th century. Several Microneedling: A newer technology for
products based on similar mechanisms have macromolecule delivery is microneedling.
been theorized, patented and commercialized, This system uses an array of tiny, needle-like
although none has achieved the same signifi- structures to create transport pathways into
cance or clinical presence as passively diffused skin on the order of microns, permitting the
transdermal drugs. Clearly, physical delivery transport of macromolecules and, potentially,
works, so it remains to be seen why the industry supramolecular complexes and microparticles.
has yet to fully embrace it. Such systems have enhanced the penetration of
The second installment in this series will macromolecules many-fold,3 while also offer-
highlight passive delivery via chemicals; i.e., ing painless drug delivery4, 5 since they directly
so-called penetration enhancers. intervene with skin but do not penetrate signifi-
cantly enough to excite nerve endings.6
Physical Penetration Thermal ablation: Thermal ablation in
Enhancement short, controlled blasts, is another approach to
create micro-channels in skin. Heat increases
Physical means of penetration enhancement
the permeability of skin by disordering the
mainly incorporate methods that transiently
lipid structure and keratin network, and even
circumvent the normal barrier function of the
decomposing/vaporizing keratin to create
stratum corneum (SC). Although their mecha-
micron-scale holes, allowing actives of interest
nisms are different, these approaches share the
to penetrate.
common goal of disrupting the SC structure to
Electroporation: Similar to iontophoresis,
create breaches that are significant enough for
electroporation uses small pulses of high energy
macromolecules to permeate. Two well-known
electricity to open skin channels. When an
examples are the aforementioned iontophoresis
electrical field is applied to cells, it increases
and sonophoresis; others include micronee-
the permeability of the cell membrane, allowing
dling, thermal ablation and electroporation.
actives of interest to enter.
Enhancing Effects
Skin care products with unique claims and The physical skin penetration methods
efficacy have driven the specialty ingredients discussed also offer alternatives to oral and
market—including actives—to a US $9.2 injectable drug delivery. Furthermore, combin-
billion market value. ing then with chemical penetration enhancers
(CPEs, to be discussed in part II of this series)
can increase the dispersion of CPEs and the
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry penetration of actives.
(www.GCImagazine.com) Interestingly, despite the plethora of CPE

and physical delivery options, most of today's References
transdermal drug delivery (TDD) products 1. H I. Maibach and M A. Ngo, 15 Factors of Percutaneous
adopt skin occlusion as the primary mechanism Penetration of Pesticides, in Parameters for Pesticide
QSAR and PBPK/PD Models for Human Risk Assessment,
for penetration enhancement. Perhaps this is American Chemical Society (2012) pp 67–86
due to its simplicity and convenience. Table 1 2. MR Prausnitz, Microneedles for transdermal drug delivery,
summarizes current technologies used for the Adv Drug Deliv Rev 56(5) 581–587 (2004)
physical penetration enhancement of drugs. 3. BW Barry, Novel mechanisms and devices to enable suc-
cessful transdermal drug delivery, Eur JPharm Sci 14(2)
Conclusion, Part I 101–104 (2001)

4. S Kaushik, AH Hord, DD Denson, et al., Lack of pain asso-
Taken together, years of experience in ciated with microfabricated microneedles, Anesth Analg
delivering drugs and actives through the skin, 92(2) 502–504 (2001)
mainly via chemical routes, could pave the way 5. RK Sivamani, B Stoeber, GC Wu, et al., Clinical microneedle
injection of methyl nicotinate: stratum corneum penetration,
for delivering cosmetic ingredients via both Skin Res Technol 11 152–156 (2005)
physical and chemical delivery systems, or 6. K Paudel et al., Challenges and opportunities in dermal/
combinations thereof. transdermal delivery, Ther Deliv 1(1) 109–31 (2010)
Table 1. Current Transdermal Drugs and Their Penetration Mechanisms
Commercially Available
Drug Applications Penetration Mechanism and Enhancers
Product(s)
Scopolamine Motion sickness Transderm Scop Occlusive effect
Moderate to
Fentanyl Duragesic Occlusive effect
severe chronic pain
Lidocaine Anesthesia Lidoderm Occlusive effect; urea, propylene glycol
Occlusive effect; polyoxyethylene fatty
Prilocaine Anesthesia EMLA anesthetic disc
acid esters
Hormone
Testosterone replacement Androderm Occlusive effect; glycerol monooleate
therapy
Estradiol Hormone
Occlusive effect; silicone,oleic acid,
Norethindrone replacement Combipatch
dipropylene glycol
Acetate therapy
Symptomatic
Occlusive effect; Climera: fatty acid
relief of
esters; Vivelle: 1,3-butylene glycerol,
postmenopausal Alora, Climara, Esclim,
Estradiol oleic acid, lecithin, propylene glycol,
symptoms and Vivelle, Vivelle-Dot
dipropylene glycol; Vivelle-Dot: oleyl
prevention of
alcohol,dipropylene glycol
osteoporosis
Norelgestromin Occlusive effect; lauryl
Contraception Ortho Evra
Ethinyl Estradiol lactate
Nitro-Dur, Nitrodisc, Occlusive effect; fatty
Nitroglycerin Angina pectoris
Transderm-Nitro acid esters
Clonidine Hypertension Catapres-TTS Occlusive effect
Nicotine Smoking cessation Daytrana Occlusive effect
Attention deficit
Methylphenidate Nicoderm-CQ Occlusive effect
hyperactive disorer
Selegiline Depression Emsam Occlusive effect
Urge/urinary
Oxybutynin Oxytrol Occlusive effect
incontinence

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• The expanding multicultural beauty market
provides opportunity to formulate products
specificially to the needs of ethnic skin types.
• Pigmentation is not the only difference

between black and Caucasian skin, the skin
barrier and other factors come into play.
Opportunity in Diversity
Consumer Insight
P
Formulating for the Multiethnic Market
Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.

FaceWorkshops, LLC eople of color comprise the majority of the
East Yorkshire, UK world’s population—so beauty care must
address a broad spectrum of cultures and
skin types. The rise of multicultural beauty is
palpable. As brands compete for the attention
of a diverse consumer base in the West and
developing markets, could research into differences in ethnic skin types
underpin new product development?

CT1709_Research_Steventon_fcx.indd 20 8/21/17 11:44 AM

Consumer Insight
People of color comprise the majority of the

world’s population—so beauty care must
address a broad spectrum of
cultures and skin types.
What Lies Beneath skin types, even among subjects located in the
same region.
Research on the biological differences in
Research also suggests hydration, repre-
ethnic skin is limited. Much has been written
sented by pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA)
about Asian skin and skin care, as well as skin-
as a marker for natural moisturizing factor,
nourishing ingredients indigenous to Africa,
is present at higher levels in black skin than
e.g., plant butters and oils. But it has been more
Caucasian skin. In contrast, filaggrin-processing
than a decade since Rawlings compelled us to
enzyme activities, which serve as epidermal
recognize the differences in skin structure and
photo-damage markers, differ in Caucasian skin
function between ethnicities, and to formulate
in and of itself per skin site.2
skin care accordingly.
It seems the more that biology reveals
The most obvious difference, skin color, is
about differences between ethnic skin types,
dictated by melanin content, which influences
the more questions it raises over seemingly
photo-protection. Darkly pigmented skin is also
contradictory conclusions; all the more reason
known to retain younger properties compared
to investigate further.
with Caucasian skin, which is prone to the
Take black skin, for example. While it is evo-
earlier and greater formation of wrinkles and
lutionarily well-protected against UV through
sagging. Additionally, black skin tends to exhibit
its melanin content and higher hydration
increased pore size, sebum secretion and skin
levels, pigmentation appears to have no effect
surface microflora.1
on the properties of the skin barrier. In fact,
However, it should be of interest to expand
in a study of albino African, black African and
this research, for example, by looking at the
Caucasian skin, the albino skin was superior
contribution of comparative clinical studies
in terms of stratum corneum integrity and
of both Caucasian and black individuals living
barrier recovery.3
in the same location. Such studies are rare yet
This reduced barrier capacity can be visual-
informative; for example, revealing the adapta-
ized in continuous color maps generated by
tion of ethnic skin types to an environment
interpolating between measured values, e.g.,
radically different from their origin.
transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin
Other work has shown differences in skin
capacitance, and superimposing the values
metabolism and the clinical impact on ethnic
on digital facial images. Such maps capture
the complexity of facial anatomy and skin
biophysical properties. Indeed, remarkable
gradients that are distinctive in different ethnic
groups exist at different facial sites and within
Black women spend twice as much on skin
short regional distances.4
care as non-black women, totaling $7.5 billion In another study of hydrolipidic cutaneous
annually on beauty products. film pH, frictional properties and wettability, a
significant difference in black and Caucasian
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry skin in women living in France was observed.
(www.GCImagazine.com) These ethnic skin types had a different hydro-
philic/lipophilic balance; however, the study

also reported no difference in skin TEWL, Being mindful of biological challenges
hydration or dryness between the groups. presents opportunities to formulate products
for black and other skin types. Cleansers, peels,
Opportunity in Diversity masks and products for acne-prone, black skin,
How do differences translate into formula- for example, require a balance between efficacy
tions? One self-assessment questionnaire and mildness to preserve the barrier.
regarding cosmetic practices found that all
black women surveyed reported using a hydrat- References
ing product daily, compared with only 16% All websites accessed July 25, 2017.
of Caucasians. They explained this practice 1. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18492142
mitigated the “dry skin” sensation they felt 2. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27028209
when not using a moisturizer.5 3. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25482263
Differences in sweat secretion or sebum 4. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26221966
profiles might also be at play. In fact, when 5. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19159380
examined clinically, black skin appears to be 6. ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24194973
oily and acne-prone; another study profiling
forehead sebum lipids showed African Ameri-
can skin had more total lipids than Caucasians.
Wax esters, in particular, differed in quantity.6 C&T Daily Newsletter
Finally, although the prevalence of skin sen-
Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
sitivity is similar across ethnicities, stimuli vary delivered straight to your inbox every day!
due to inherent biological differences in skin
type. In particular, reduced barrier function is http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
often associated with skin sensitivity.

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• There exists a need for a universal means
to characterize surfactant behavior
and miscibility.
• Presented here is the cohesive energy ratio
(CER), which meets this need and serves as a
tool to select surfactants for emulsifying any
two immiscible liquids.

CT1709_Research_Gee_fcx.indd 24 8/21/17 11:45 AM

Solution
Evolution CER as a Universal Surfactant Balance Descriptor
Ronald P. Gee
Dow Corning Corp., Midland, MI, USA
Editor’s note: As most formulators know, emulsions are the basis of products such as
hair conditioners and skin moisturizers, among others. They often incorporate emulsifying
surfactants to stabilize their increasingly complex systems. With current projections for the
hair conditioning market to increase with a CAGR of 5.42% between 2014 and 2019,1 and
skin care to surpass $131 billion in 2019,2 formulators will be called upon more than ever to
find new solutions to make the immiscible miscible.
While the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is the conventional “tool” used, it does not
translate to nonaqueous systems. As such, the present article describes a new approach—the
cohesive energy ratio (CER)—as a universal means for formulators to characterize surfactant
behavior and effectiveness with all liquids to be emulsified.
T he empirical expression of hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) for

aqueous emulsions3 is widely known. More recently, the 3-D HLB4, 5
approach was presented to characterize emulsifiers having silicone,
hydrocarbon and/or polyoxyalkylene segments to make o/w, w/o,
s/w, w/s, o/s and s/o emulsions; where s represents silicone oils and
o, aliphatic hydrocarbon oils. The 3-D expression retained the HLB
convention of a 0–20 numerical range for o/w emulsions with the addition
of two empirical ranges of 0–20 for silicone-water emulsions and silicone-
hydrocarbon emulsions, designated herein as HSB and LSB respectively,
where S = silophile.
Vol. 132, No.

Reproduction 8 | September
in English 2017of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media.
or any other language Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 25
CT1709_Research_Gee_fcx.indd 25 8/22/17 1:36 PM

Solution Evolution
Establishing sufficient amphipathic character

to emulsify two liquids having
small differences in polarity can be
challenging and requires careful selection.
However, numerous other liquids are polarity (LL = lower polarity, LH = higher
immiscible with water, silicone and aliphatic polarity) is possible if a suitable amphipathic
hydrocarbon oils, such as: polyesters, polypro- surfactant can be found that will stabilize emul-
pyleneoxide, epoxy resin, butylbenzylphthalate sion particles. Surfactant segments, differing in
(BBP) plasticizer, aromatic hydrocarbons and polarity, provide an amphipathic nature with
other polar oligomers, which can produce respect to the two liquids (see Figure 1). They
non-aqueous emulsions and, accordingly, generally lower the equilibrium interfacial ten-
would require an L1L2B descriptor for each pair sion between the two liquids.
of liquids. Surfactants used in aqueous emulsions
The cohesive energy ratio (CER) appears to are typically unable to stabilize non-aqueous
be a universal balance descriptor. The CER was emulsions because their lipophilic portion is
developed6, 7 to describe surfactants based on soluble in both liquids. Surfactants intended to
the chemical structure of their lipophilic and emulsify a silicone oil with an organic oil are
hydrophilic segments as a quantitative alterna- composed of portions that may be referred to as
tive to the aqueous HLB concept. As will be silophilic and organophilic. An example of an
shown, it answers the need for a suitable means s/o non-aqueous emulsion is 1,000-cs dimethi-
to characterize surfactant behavior and effec- cone in BBP.
tiveness with other liquids to be emulsified, as Octylphenylpoly-10-ethoxyethanol, a typical
expressed in a recent overview on non-aqueous o/w surfactant, cannot stabilize such an s/o
emulsions and their current applications.8 emulsion because the octylphenyl group is
This approach can also be combined with the soluble in both liquids. In contrast, a silicone-
solubility parameter as a polarity descriptor of polyether block copolymer surfactant contains
surfactant segments and the liquids desired to a polydimethylsiloxane silophile, which is
be emulsified. soluble in the silicone oil and insoluble in the
BBP, and a polyether organophile, which is
Non-aqueous Emulsions soluble in the BBP and insoluble in the silicone
First, consider some fundamentals. Emul- oil. A highly stable s/o emulsion results from
sification of two immiscible liquids of differing using this type surfactant.
Surfactant Selection
Selecting a surfactant having the necessary
amphipathic character to emulsify oil in water
is relatively simple due to the large polarity
The global emulsifiers market size is difference of water with most oils. However,
establishing sufficient amphipathic character to
projected to reach $8.44 billion, expanding
emulsify two liquids having a smaller difference
at a CAGR of 6.8% from 2016 to 2021.
in polarity can be challenging and requires
careful selection.
Source: Markets and Markets Matching the LL liquiphile to the LL liquid,
and the LH liquiphile to the LH liquid is of
critical importance. In relation, the Hildebrand

Solubility parameter (d) has long been used for point, and any potential solute (e.g., polymer,
selecting suitable solvents to dissolve a specific oil) has a spherical region of solubility that is
polymer.9 For solution to occur, the free energy centered at its partial parameters with a radius,
of mixing (DGm) must be negative; where: DGm = R. Thus, any solvent located in that region will
DHm − TDSm. dissolve the material.
The heat of mixing (DHm) is expressed as: Using Hansen’s solubility parameters, the
DHm = Vm(d1 − d2)2 f1f2; where: d = solubility (d1 − d2) term in the heat of mixing equation
parameter, Vm = the average molar volume becomes: (d1 − d2) = (d1d – d2d)2 + 0.25(d1p – d2p)2 +
of solvent and polymer, and f = volume frac- 0.25(d1h – d2h)1/2.
tion of each species. The solubility parameter Twenty-one combinations of seven liquid
difference (d1 − d2) of polymer and potential organic polymers, of varied structure and polar-
solvent must be sufficiently small for solution to ity, were blended one-to-one in our laboratory
occur:10 less than approx. 1.7 (cal/mL)1/2 or in SI and tested for compatibility, i.e., clear versus
units, 3.5 (J/cm3)1/2. opaque mixtures, to identify the two regions
However, Hildebrand solubility parameters depicted in Figure 2. Solubility is expected if
are not reliable for polar materials. As such, d1 − d2 is less than approx. 3.5 (J/cm3)1/2 for
Hansen11 developed a three-dimensional liquids having Vm less than 1,000, and less than
solubility parameter suitable for both polar approximately 2.0 for Vm less than 10,000.
and non-polar materials. Here, the solubility Figure 2 provides a general pictorial descrip-
parameter is treated as a vector having three tion of the effects of the difference of solubility
vector components: dispersion (dd), polar (dp) parameter between two molecular species
and hydrogen bonding (dh) partial parameters. and the average molar volume (i.e., molecular
These partial parameters define a three-dimen- weight) on solubility versus insolubility.
sional space, where any solvent is located as a This approach may be used to assess the
Figure 1. Surfactant amphipathic characteristics

Solution Evolution
Figure 2. Solubility relationships: surfactant segments and liquids to be emulsified

(regarding points A-D, see The CER of Emulsifiers in text)
Table 1. Hansen Solubility Parameters (J/cm3)1/2 and Molar Volume
d dd dp dh Vm
Liquids 12

Dimethicone 15.0 15.0 0.0 0.0 large
BBP 21.8 18.6 11.0 3.0 306
Water 46.7 15.5 16.0 41.0 18
Propylene glycol 29.0 16.8 10.4 21.3 74
Propanediol 13
31.7 16.8 13.5 23.2 73
PPG-67 22.0 17.6 2.0 13.2 ~4,000
PPG-12 ~700
Lipophiles 6

i-Tridecyl 14.7 14.7 0 0 235
i-Octylphenyl 16.7 16.7 0 0 211
Oleate 15.2 15.2 0 0 284
Stearate 16.4 16.4 0 0 293
Hydrophiles 6

PEG-12 26.2 20.6 6.2 15.4 523
PEG-6 22.8 17.8 11.6 8.6 250
Silophiles 12

Dimethicone 15.0 15.0 0 0 ≥ 3,000
Organophiles
PEG-12 26.2 20.6 6.2 15.4 523
PEG/PPG-18/18 22.4 17.8 3.6 13.0 2,550

Liquids to be emulsified must
match the right liquiphiles
of the emulsifier by assuring
similar solubilities and suitable
molecular weights.
suitability of potential emulsifier segments The CER equation for silicone-organic

with respect to the two liquids desired to be emulsifiers becomes:
emulsified—i.e., the requirements of Figure 1 CER = (VSMS [dd2 + 0.25dp2 + 0.25dh2]S)/
are satisfied. The partial solubility parameters (VOMO [dd2 + 0.25dp2 + 0.25dh2]O)
for example liquids, lipophiles, hydrophiles, where, S and O refer to silophile and organo-
organophiles and a silophile are provided phile, respectively. MS and MO designate the
in Table 1,12, 13 where: d = (dd2 + dp2 + dh2)1/2. number of silophilic and organophilic segments
Values of PEG/PPG-18/18 were determined in in the surfactant molecule. If the molecule is
our laboratory. a “rake” or “comb” type of structure, with the
silophile as the backbone, MS is one and MO is
The CER of Emulsifiers the number of pendant segments present. Note
From this information, an emulsifier may be that CER is dimensionless but one must be
identified that has an appropriate CER to favor consistent in using either CGS or SI units for
the desired type of non-aqueous emulsion. A solubility parameter values.
broadened CER method utilizing Hansen solu-
bility parameters can then be used to develop Applying the CER
block copolymeric surfactants for producing Many silicone-organic emulsions were
stable non-aqueous emulsions. For simplicity, prepared and tested for stability, utilizing block
the present discussion is narrowed to silicone- copolymers having a CER of 0.05–10.0 as an
based emulsions with polar liquids. emulsifier. In general, a copolymer having a

Solution Evolution
CER of approximately 0.5 is satisfactory to The interfacial tension of 100-cs dimethi-

produce s/o emulsions such as dimethicone cone with BBP (4.8 mN/m) decreased with
in PEG or in propanediol. For example, PEG/ increasing silophile molecular weight (see
PPG-18/18 dimethiconea, with its major polyol Figure 3). For silophile molecular weights
component and a CER of 0.19, is suitable for greater than about 2,000, the interfacial tension
this type emulsion. Here, the organophile is was approximately 2.0 mN/m.
a PEG/PPG random copolymer having an In contrast, octylphenylpoly-10-ethoxyeth-
approximate molecular weight of 2,600; to be anol surfactant had essentially no effect on the
sufficiently silophobic, its molecular weight interfacial tension (4.7 mN/m). As previously
should be at least 500. stated, this surfactant is unable to stabilize an
The polydimethylsiloxane silophile must emulsion of these two liquids because its octyl-
have a minimum degree of organophobicity phenyl group is soluble in BBP (see Figure 2,
as well, which is achieved by increasing its point B).
molecular weight (see Figure 2, point A). Model In another example, it was not possible
emulsions of 1,000-cs dimethicone in a liquid to emulsify 1,000-cs dimethicone in PPG-67b
epoxy resin, employing a series of emulsifiers liquid using PEG-12 dimethicone surfactant.
having varied molecular weight silophiles, show However, replacement of the PPG-67 polar
that a minimum molecular weight of about liquid with a lower molecular weight homolog,
3,000 is needed to provide a stable s/o emulsion. PPG-12c, resulted in an excellent white emul-
The liquid epoxy resin and BBP are sion that was stable at room temperature and
miscible, and therefore have similar solubil- at 100°C.
ity parameters. Thus, a possible correlation While the polar organic PPG-67 liquid was
between surfactant silophile molecular weight immiscible with PEG-12, PPG-12 was miscible
and interfacial tension was examined using with the PEG-12 organophile (see Figure 2,
BBP and 100-cs dimethicone, due to its much points C and D, respectively). Thus, emulsion
lower viscosity. stability was due to the increased organophi-
licity of the EO12 segment with the PPG-12
a
Dow Corning 190 (INCI: PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone) organic liquid, establishing amphipathicity of
the surfactant with these
two liquids.
Conversely, a CER of
approx. 2.0 is optimum
for o/s emulsions. In
this case, a surfactant
having a much higher
molecular weight
silophile is needed, along
with a large organo-
phile. Consequently,
the surfactant is highly
viscous and is necessar-
ily provided as a solution
in a cyclosiloxane.
For example, PEG/
b
Voranol CP4100, poly-67-
propyleneglycol (INCI: PPG-67);
c
Voranol CP700, poly-12-
propyleneglycol (INCI: PPG-
12); and
d
DC 3225C Formulation Aid
Figure 3. Effect of silophile molecular weight on interfacial (INCI: Cyclotetrasiloxane (and)
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/
tension (1% surfactant in BBP, 0.37 CER) PPG-18/18 Dimethicone), Dow
Chemical Company

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Solution Evolution
PPG-18/18 dimethicone, with its major dimethi- for various block copolymers of PEG and PPGe.
cone component, in cyclosiloxaned has a CER of It should then be possible to make non-aqueous
1.7 and effectively stabilizes PEG/dimethicone emulsions of two immiscible polar organic
non-aqueous emulsions. Surfactants such as liquids using the appropriate CER PEG/PPG
this are especially suitable for making w/s surfactant, if the necessary amphipathic nature
emulsions, where various water-soluble ingre- is also present.
dients may be pre-dissolved in the water. Their
extensive use in cosmetic and personal care Conclusion
products was recently reviewed by Starch.14 While HLB cannot be used for non-aqueous
emulsions, CER can be used for any liquid/
CER vs. HLB liquid emulsion. To assure the surfactant has
CER functions much the same as the empiri- an amphipathic nature with respect to the
cal HLB, as shown by the correlation of CER two liquids, an estimate of the Hansen partial
with HLB provided by Beerbower and Hill (see solubility parameters of each liquid and the
Figure 4).7 By converting
HLB to CER, one may
compare the general Table 2. CER Ranges for Aqueous and Non-aqueous Emulsions
ranges of surfactant
CER used to make
aqueous emulsions with LL/LH Emulsions CER
silicone-polar organic Oil/Water 0.10 to 0.90 (HLB: 18 to 10)
liquid emulsions made
Silicone/Organic 0.06 to 0.80
during our research (see
Table 2). LH/LL Invert Emulsions CER
It is readily apparent Water/Oil 1.5 to 4.0 (HLB: 8 to 3)
that the CER ranges Organic/Silicone 1.5 to 6.0
are essentially the same
for both aqueous and
non-aqueous emulsions
and their invert emul-
sion types. Thus, CER is
a common fundamental
descriptor for these two
emulsion types and per-
haps with any emulsifier
for emulsifying any two
immiscible liquids.
For example, stable
emulsions of mineral
oil in liquid polyoxyal-
kylene (1/1 PEG/PPG)
glycols were made using
silicone-polyether copo-
lymers having CERs
over the range of 0.12
to 0.90. The most stable
emulsion was obtained
using an emulsifier hav-
ing 0.34 CER. The CER
may also be calculated
Figure 4. Correlation of oil-water HLB with CER (log CER =
e
Pluronic Polyols, BASF 0.925 – 0.0963 HLB)
Wyandotte Corp.

Figure 5. Illustrated relationship of emulsion types: liquiphile solubility parameter;
surfactant amphipathicity and CER (D = liquiphile, X = liquid, O = emulsifier)
segments of the surfactant is needed. The 3. W Griffin, Classification of surface-active agents by “HLB,”
J Soc Cosmet Chem 1(5) (1949)
liquids to be emulsified must be matched to
4. A O’Lenick and J Parkinson, Three-dimensional HLB, Cosm
the appropriate liquiphiles of the emulsifier by & Toil 111 37-44 (1996)
assuring similar partial solubility parameters 5. A O’Lenick and J Parkinson, Applying the three-dimensional
and suitable molecular weights. The molecular HLB system, Cosm & Toil 112 59-65 (1997)
weights of such emulsifier segments are then 6. A Beerbower and M Hill, The cohesive energy ratio of
increased, if needed, to enhance liquiphobicity emulsions—A fundamental basis for the HLB concept, in
McCutcheon’s Detergents and Emulsifiers, MC Publishing
with the other liquid. Co, New Jersey (1971) pp 223-235
The emulsifier CER is then chosen to make 7. A Beerbower and M Hill, Application of the cohesive
the emulsion or invert emulsion. In general, an energy ratio (CER) concept to anionic emulsifiers, American
emulsifier CER of approx. 0.5 for LL/LH emul- Cosmetics and Perfumery 87 85-89 (Jun 1972)
sions and 2.0 for LH/LL emulsions is satisfactory. 8. P Thau, Nonaqueous emulsions: History and current
specialized applications, Cosm & Toil 8 (Aug 2013)
Once the amphipathic nature of surfactant with
9. J Hildebrand and R Scott, The Solubility of Non-electrolytes,
the two liquids is satisfied, the relationship of 3rd edn, Dover Publications, New York (1964)
aqueous and non-aqueous emulsions may be 10. F Billmeyer, Textbook of Polymer Science, Wiley Inter-
illustrated in two dimensions, as shown in Fig- science, Hoboken, NJ (1971) pp 24-25
ure 5. The general utility of CER and solubility 11. C Hansen, The three-dimensional solubility parameter—Key
parameter for emulsions of any two immiscible to paint component affinities, J Paint Technology 39 (505)
104-117 and (511) 505-510 (1967)
liquids is then apparent.
12. C Hansen and A Beerbower, Encyc Chem Tech, supp.,
John Wiley and Sons Inc. (1971); in CGS units
References 13. Zemea (propanediol) Technical Bulletin, DuPont Tate & Lyle
Products Co (2017)
1. researchandmarkets.com/reports/3339710/global-hair-
conditioner-market-2015-2019#pos-0 (Accessed August 2, 14. M Starch, Applications of silicones in cosmetic and personal
2017) care products, in Y Liu, ed, Silicone Dispersions, CRC
Press/Taylor and Francis Group, Boca Raton, FL USA
2. euromonitor.com/the-future-of-skin-care-game-changing-
(2017)
trends-and-influencers/report (Accessed August 2, 2017)

Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• DABBA is a synthetic peptide that mimics
Waglerin-1, a toxin from the temple viper. It
is shown here to reversibly inhibit muscular
contraction and reduce wrinkle formation, and
to induce the expression of genes that improve
collagen fiber maturation.
• Differences in anti-wrinkle effects were

observed due to skin type, i.e., Asian,
black African or Caucasian, as well as
precise facial site.
Antidote
for Aging
all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017
Reproduction©in2017 Allured
English Business
or any Media. of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media.
other language
CT1709_Testing_Campiche_fcx.indd 34 8/22/17 3:00 PM

Synthetic Viper Venom
Smooths Over a
Cross-cultural Concern
Remo Campiche, Marc Heidl, Rainer Voegeli and Dominik Imfeld

DSM Nutritional Products, Kaiseraugst, Switzerland
Pierre Séroul, Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France
Anthony V. Rawlings, AVR Consulting Ltd., Northwich, England
tal factors such as air pollution, smoking or

lifestyle.
T
Concerning visual signs of skin aging,
wrinkles are the most important to consum-
ers.11 Facial wrinkles can be grouped together,
e.g., as forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet near the
eyes, mouth frown lines, the nasolabial folds
and vertical lines on the upper and lower lips.
In relation, a few studies have been conducted
he perception and to determine the efficacy of treatments on
manifestation of aging these disparate facial sites.12, 13
and beauty vary depend- One of the main molecular signs of skin
ing on ethnicity and aging is the decrease and disorganization of
region.1 Recent studies functional collagen in the dermis.14 This results
g
of women having various from either increased collagen degradation,
skin types showed significant differences due to chronological aging or photoaging, or
in the appearance of pores,2 wrinkles and from decreased de novo synthesis. Means to
sagging,3–5 as well as transepidermal water protect collagen degradation or to enhance
loss,6 skin capacitance6, 7 and biochemical collagen synthesis and maturation would
markers.8 Furthermore, differences in skin hence be beneficial to counteract skin aging
architecture, structure and composition and wrinkle formation. In relation, lysyl
depending on ethnicity can lead to different hydroxylases (LHs), particularly LH3, encoded
onsets of aging,9 although UV irradiation by the gene PLOD3,15 and lysyl oxidases
is still the most important factor. More (LOXs), particularly LOXL2,16 have been found
recently, the term skin aging exposome was to be instrumental in the proper maturation of
also penned10 to include other environmen- collagen fibers.

a.

Antidote for Aging
DABBA blocks muscular contraction,

leading to transient muscle relaxation that
smooths facial wrinkles.
Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide Materials and Methods

diacetate, hereafter referred to as DABBAa, is
As stated, DABBA was modeled after a basic
a cosmetic ingredient modeled after a toxic
amino acid-proline-basic amino acid repeat that
protein found in venom of the temple viper,
is responsible for the activity of Waglerin-1. The
Tropidolaemus wagleri. The protein, Waglerin-1,
repeat consists specifically of arginine-proline-
acts by inhibiting the nicotinic acetylcholine
lysine. By distinct side-chain modifications, the
receptor,17 which blocks muscular contraction.
peptide Beta-Ala-Pro-Dab-NH-Bzl * 2AcOH was
DABBA acts on the same receptor, blocking the
developed for anti-wrinkle activities and tested
muscle nicotinic acetylcholine receptor but in
as described next.
a transient and reversible manner.17 This leads
In vitro muscle contraction: Human muscle
to a relaxation of the mimic muscles in the
cells were cultured in gelatin-coated plates until
face, smoothing out facial wrinkles—similar
they formed myo-fibers without contraction. To
to botulinum toxin but without being injected
induce contraction, they were co-cultured with
subcutaneously. In addition, facial expression is
spinal cord explants containing dorsal root gan-
not lost.
glions from rat embryos. After one day, neurites
The present article explores the effects of
were growing from the explants. Upon contact
DABBA by investigating facial wrinkles in three
with the myotubes, they induced first contrac-
different skin types: Asian, black African and
tions. After 21 days, the culture displayed high
Caucasian. Results indicate both skin type- and
levels of mature neuromuscular junctions with
facial site-dependent manifestations of the signs
cross-striated, innervated muscle fibers.
of aging. The active also was shown to positively
At this point, 0.5 mM of DABBA was admin-
affect the collagen maturation pathway.
istered and the cessation of muscle contractions
was monitored using an inverted microscope
a
SYN-AKE or SYN-STAR (INCI: Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl equipped for video recordingb. The results were
Benzylamide Diacetate (and) Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua)), DSM expressed as the number of fiber contractions
in 30 sec, and as a percentage of the contrac-
tion frequency compared with the contraction
frequency before incubation.
In vitro gene expression in human
dermal fibroblasts: Normal human dermal
fibroblasts from the abdominal skin of female
The global skin care products market will donors, 18 and 63 years old, were exposed to
reach $179 billion by 2022, with a CAGR of DABBA for 24 hr. Gene expression averages
4.7% from 2017 to 2022. Face creams lead were measuredc for Procollagen-Lysine,2-
for overall revenue in this segment. Oxoglutarate 5-Dioxygenase 3 (PLOD3); Lysyl
Oxidase Like 2 (LOXL2) was assessed from
technical duplicates.
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry
(www.GCImagazine.com) b
Diaphot 300 inverted microscope with DMX 1200 camera,
Nikon Corp.
c
LightCycler System, Roche Molecular Diagnostics

Study 1 in vivo, Caucasian skin: For this compare the data, measurements were normal-
full-face, placebo controlled, 28-day study, test ized and calculated in mm and mm2.
creams (see Formula 1) were applied twice
daily to the faces of 15 female Caucasians In vitro Results:
(41–60 years old, 52.5 ± 2). The evolution of Muscle Contraction
wrinkles in their crow’s feet area and foreheads
In the co-culture assay using human muscle
were evaluatedd at baseline and after the four
cells and rat spinal cord explants, 0.5 mM of
weeks of treatment.
DABBA significantly inhibited muscle contrac-
Study 2 in vivo, Caucasian, Asian and
tion by 82% (p < 0.05) in a time-dependent
black African skin: In a second full-face,
manner 2 hr after application (see Figure 1a).
placebo controlled, 28-day study, 150 female
This inhibition persisted for two days and
volunteers having one of three different skin
contraction was fully restored after four days,
phototypes were enrolled. The test creams (see
indicating the peptide is fast-acting, long-lasting
Formula 1) were applied twice daily. Fifty sub-
and fully reversible. These results suggest
jects participated per group, wherein 25 applied
DABBA correctly mimics Waglerin-1, inhibiting
a placebo and 25 applied the active test cream.
the nicotinic acetylcholine receptor and leading
Caucasians were recruited from Lyon,
to the relaxation of facial expression lines (see
France (46.2 ± 3.6 years old, Fitzpatrick skin
Figure 1b).
phototypes II–III); Asians were recruited from
To explain DABBA’s anti-wrinkle mechanism
Bangkok, Thailand (47.3 ± 3.5 years old, Fitzpat-
of action, consider under normal conditions,
rick skin phototypes III–IV); and black Africans
acetylcholine (ACh) is released from neurons
were recruited from Quatre Bornes, Island of
and binds to the muscle nicotinic acetylcholine
Mauritius (56.5 ± 4.5 years old, Fitzpatrick skin
receptor (mnAChR). This leads to depolariza-
phototypes V–VI). Cross-polarized images were
tion and muscle contraction (see left scheme,
taken of each subject’s half-face, at a 45-degree
Figure 1b). On the right scheme (also Fig-
angle, and front face, at a zero-degree angle.
ure 1b), DABBA is believed to block mnAChR,
Caucasian and black African subjects were
making it inaccessible to ACh and in turn, pre-
photographed using one systeme and Asian
venting depolarization. Thus, the muscle stays
subjects, with anotherf. Wrinkle lengths and
relaxed. It is noteworthy that botulinum toxin
surfaces were analyzed from the images. To
e
ColorFace System, Newtone Technologies
d
Primos 3D, Canfield f
Visia CR System, Canfield
Formula 1. Test Creams
Ingredient Placebo (%) Active (%)

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (Amphisol K, DSM) 1.00 1.00
Cetyl Alcohol (Ecorol 16/98P, The Hallstar Company) 3.00 3.00
Cetyl Palmitate (Cutina CP, BASF) 1.50 1.50
Octyldodecanol (Eutanol G, BASF) 3.00 3.00
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
(Pemulen TR-1, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.10 0.10
Butylene Glycol 3.00 3.00
Water (Aqua) 84.81 80.81
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane
(Dow Corning 345 Fluid, Dow Corning) 2.50 2.50
Water (Aqua) (and) Sodium Hydroxide 0.09 0.09
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate (and)
Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) (SYN-AKE or SYN-STAR, DSM) n/a 4.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE 9010, schulke inc.) 1.00 1.00

Antidote for Aging
a)
b)
Figure 1. Inhibition of muscle cell contraction by DABBA in vitro (a) and its proposed
botulinum toxin-like mode of action (b)

A complex pattern of wrinkle appearance was
revealed, suggesting facial aging may be more
complicated than previously thought.
acts on the inhibition of ACh release, blocking To explain DABBA’s effects on the genetic
signaling transfer from neuron to muscle.21 This expression of pro-collagen markers, note that
pre-synaptic activity is slightly different from both PLOD3 and LOXL2 are involved in the
DABBA, which is acts post-synaptically but maturation of collagen fibers (see Figure 2b).16, 18
exhibits a similar effect. PLOD3 encodes the protein LH3, which adds
hydroxyl groups to lysine residues of the pro-col-
In vitro Results: lagen molecule. This is essential for pro-collagen
Gene Expression to form a triple helix, which is then further
processed by LOXL2, among others, to generate
To assess the effects of DABBA on additional
mature collagen fibers.22
anti-aging pathways, human dermal fibroblasts
were incubated with the active as described
previously. DABBA increased the expression
In vivo Results:
of PLOD3 by 4.5-fold and LOXL2 by 2.4-fold Caucasian Skin
(see Figure 2a). Interesting, for PLOD3, up- As noted, Caucasian female subjects were
regulation was observed only in the 63-year-old recruited to assess the activity of DABBA on
fibroblasts, indicating its effects are age- forehead wrinkles (see Figure 3) and the crow’s
dependent. This may suggest specific activity, feet area (data not shown). Parameters for
where reconstitution of the extracellular matrix wrinkle depth, Ra, wrinkle amplitude, Rz, and
is most needed. skin roughness, Rt, all decreased significantly

Antidote for Aging
a)
b)
Figure 2. Gene-expression of PLOD3 and LOXL2 in human dermal fibroblasts after

treatment with DABBA or TGF-b1 (positive control); expression levels are relative to house-
keeping genes (GAPDH and RPS28) at 100% (a); proposed mode of action for DABBA’s
anti-aging activity (b)

by 15–21% (p < 0.05 for Rt, p < 0.01 for both Ra and Rz)
with a formulation containing 4% DABBA; this was not
the case for the placebo group.
In vivo Results:
Different Ethnicities
In general, it is assumed Caucasian skin shows an
earlier onset of the signs of aging than Asian or black
African skin.19 This may be due to the decrease in pho-
toaging generally attributed to darker skin phototypes.
Recently, this concept was challenged with the finding
that aging also depends on the facial site studied.20 This
suggests facial aging is a complex phenomenon, depen-
dent not only on skin type, but also on the facial area.
Another study recently found skin hydration shows
dramatic variation depending on skin phototype or
facial site, with large gradients on relatively small areas.6
These observations inspired us to examine differences in
treatment effects of the anti-aging peptide in volunteers
having different skin phototypes.
As noted, women from three regions having differ-
ent skin types applied either a 4% DABBA-containing
formula or placebo formula for 28 days. The results in
Figure 4a show that the treatment effects were as diverse
as the reported appearance of facial wrinkles themselves.
The decrease in forehead wrinkle depth found initially
in the Caucasian skin-only study was confirmed (-8.6%,
p < 0.05) (see Figure 3) but for the other facial sites, the
treatment effects were more complex. For Caucasian
skin, a decrease in mouth frown lines and vertical lines
on the upper lip was observed, up to 23% in length. Asian
subjects showed a decrease in mouth frown lines of 4%
in depth, and vertical lines on the upper lip up to 8% for
length and depth. Black African skin showed a decrease
in the depth of vertical lines on the upper lip by 2%.
In addition, the volunteers completed a self-assess-
ment questionnaire (see Figure 4b). Overall, according to
the test subjects, the DABBA-containing formula outper-
formed the placebo formula. Volunteers reported having
fewer forehead wrinkles, thus confirming measurements
(see Figures 3 and 4a). Furthermore, they felt they had
smoother and finer skin, and their facial features seemed
lifted.
Conclusions
From the described studies, some conclusions can be
made. First, besides its muscle-relaxing activity, DABBA
induces the expression of PLOD3 and LOXL2, two genes
coding for proteins involved in collagen fiber maturation.
This suggests added anti-aging benefits.
Also, in two in vivo studies, one of Caucasian sub-
jects, and the other of subjects having three differently
pigmented skin types, significant effects were observed.

Antidote for Aging
Figure 3. Measurement of forehead wrinkles on volunteers using the 4% DABBA,

compared with the placebo formula (above); the test formula shows decreased wrinkle
depth after 28 days of treatment with DABBA (bottom; green profile) compared with the
beginning of the study (red profile)

a)
b)
Figure 4. Efficacy of DABBA on facial wrinkles; Caucasian skin depth of forehead

wrinkles decreased significantly over baseline (*p < 0.05 by ANOVA followed by Tukey
test) (a); and self-assessment questionnaire after four weeks of treatment (b)

Antidote for Aging
A robust decrease in the depth of forehead 3. K Tsukahara et al, Comparison of age-related changes in
facial wrinkles and sagging in the skin of Japanese, Chinese
wrinkles and crow’s feet was shown in Cauca- and Thai women, J Dermatol Sci 47(1) 19-28 (2007)
sian skin. Also, distinct effects on mouth frown 4. S Nouveau-Richard et al, Skin aging: A comparison
lines and vertical lines of the upper lip were between Chinese and European populations. A pilot study,
observed in three, i.e., Caucasian, Asian and J Dermatol Sci 40(3) 187-93 (2005)
black African, skin types. 5. T Fujimura, et al, Roughness analysis of the skin as a
secondary evaluation criterion in addition to visual scoring
Finally, a complex pattern of wrinkle appear- is sufficient to evaluate ethnic differences in wrinkles. Int J
ance was revealed in volunteers of all three Cosmet Sci 31(5) 361-7 (2009)
subject groups. Taken together, this data adds to 6. R Voegeli et al, A novel continuous colour mapping
the knowledge that facial aging may be a more approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and tran-
sepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups, Int J Cosmet
complex phenomenon than previously thought. Sci 37(6) 595-605 (2015)
The present findings also allow product develop- 7. R Voegeli, AV Rawlings and B Summers, Facial skin
ers to develop specific anti-aging compounds pigmentation is not related to stratum corneum cohesion,
dependent on skin phototype or facial site. basal transepidermal water loss, barrier integrity and barrier
repair, Int J Cosmet Sci 37(2) 241-52 (2015)
8. N Raj et al, Variation in the activities of late stage filaggrin
Acknowledgements: This study was funded by DSM
processing enzymes, calpain-1 and bleomycin hydrolase,
Nutritional Products. together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid levels, corneocyte
phenotypes and plasmin activities in non-sun exposed and
sun-exposed facial stratum corneum of different ethnicities,
References Int J Cosmet Sci (2016)
1. CE Lockenhoff et al, Perceptions of aging across 26 cul- 9. Y Sugiyama-Nakagiri et al, Ethnic differences in the struc-
tures and their culture-level associates, Psychol Aging 24(4) tural properties of facial skin, J Dermatol Sci 53(2) 135-9
941-54 (2009) (2009)
2. F Flament et al, Facial skin pores: A multiethnic study, Clin 10. J Krutmann et al, The skin aging exposome, J Dermatol Sci
Cosmet Invest Dermatol 8 85-93 (2015) (2016)
11. A Nkengne and C. Bertin, Aging and facial changes-docu-
menting clinical signs, part 1: Clinical changes of the aging
face, SKINmed 11 281-286 (2013)
12. J Hatzis, The wrinkle and its measurement—a skin surface
profilometric method, Micron 35(3) 201-19 (2004)
13. GE Piérard, I Uhoda and C. Piérard-Franchimont, Update
on the histological presentation of facial wrinkles, Eur J
Dermatol 12(6) 13-14 (2002)
14. T Quan and GJ Fisher, Role of age-associated alterations of
the dermal extracellular matrix microenvironment in human
skin aging: A mini-review, Gerontology 61(5) 427-34 (2015)
15. M Risteli et al, Reduction of lysyl hydroxylase 3 causes
deleterious changes in the deposition and organization of
extracellular matrix, J Biol Chem 284(41) 28204-11 (2009)
16. YM Kim, EC Kim and Y Kim, The human lysyl oxidase-like 2
protein functions as an amine oxidase toward collagen and
elastin, Mol Biol Rep 38(1) 145-9 (2011)
17. JJ McArdle et al, Waglerin-1 selectively blocks the epsilon
form of the muscle nicotinic acetylcholine receptor, J Phar-
macol Exp Ther 289(1) 543-50 (1999)
18. R Myllyla et al, Expanding the lysyl hydroxylase toolbox:
New insights into the localization and activities of lysyl
hydroxylase 3 (LH3), J Cell Physiol 212(2) 323-9 (2007)
19. GG Hillebrand, MJ Levine and K Miyamoto, The age-
dependent changes in skin condition in African Americans,
Asian Indians, Caucasians, East Asians and Latinos, IFSCC
Magazine 4(4) 259-266 (2001)
20. A Vierkotter et al, Extrinsic skin aging in German, Chinese
and Japanese women manifests differently in all three
groups depending on ethnic background, age and anatomi-
cal site, J Dermatol Sci (2016)
21. R Small, Botulinum toxin injection for facial wrinkles, Am
Fam Physician 90(3) 168-75 (2014)
22. DM Gilkes, GL Semenza and D Wirtz, Hypoxia and the
extracellular matrix: Drivers of tumor metastasis, Nat Rev
Cancer 14(6) 430-9 (2014)

Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Broken fibers and fray can cause split ends,
which delays the ability to grow long, flowing
hair. Breakage is a concern for many consumers
and each person has different habits and
practices to consider.
• African hair, specifically, is fragile and "breakage"

is widely referenced as one of the primary
concerns for individuals with this hair type.
Testing Tactics in Hair
New Ideas on
Breakage
Mending Existing Flaws
Trefor A. Evans, Ph.D.

TRI-Princeton
Princeton, New Jersey
B reakage is likely high on any list of hair-

related consumer worries. Broken fibers
and fray give rise to unsightly split ends,
which in sufficient numbers can hinder the
ability to grow beautiful, long and flow-
ing hair. Considerable effort has therefore
been dedicated to studying the tensile properties of hair and the
negative impact of various insults. Previous articles in this column
have described this testing process and shown typical results.1–3 Our
historical beliefs as to the causes of hair breakage have accordingly
been largely shaped by findings from this approach.

CT1709_Testing_Evans_fcx.indd 46 8/21/17 1:12 PM

Conventional mechanical testing on virgin,
single-source African hair suggests a dry
state break stress that is around 10% lower
than virgin Caucasian hair.
More recently, an alternate mechanical documented to compromise the hair protein

testing technique, fatigue testing, has been structure; for example: chemical treatments,
changing our perspective on this topic.4, 5 First, heat, UV exposure, etc. Yet flaws seemingly
results suggest considerably more amplified could also be formed by mechanical means
consequences from known harmful treatments; where, for example, placing hair in braids
but, at the same time, sizable contributions or possibly even a ponytail could originate
from hitherto unrecognized factors also structural chinks. Flaw occurrence will be more
become apparent. Contemplation of the reasons likely in longer hair due to an accumulation of
for these occurrences leads to a simple and wear and tear and a higher statistical likelihood
succinct means for visualizing the causes of of a flaw being present in a long fiber versus a
breakage, while also suggesting strategies short one.
for mitigation.
New Insights from S-N Plots
Fatigue Theory To assess how repeated stress can affect fiber
The traditional method for assessing the breakage, a commercially available instrument
tendency for hair breakage involves applying a can be used that performs single fiber, mechani-
one-time, catastrophic deformation to individual cal fatigue testing.6 The device repeatedly
fibers with the subsequent evaluation of a force- applies a user-defined force to single fibers over
to-break. And as described in previous articles, and over until breakage ultimately occurs. Prior
it is common to report a break stress whereby to testing, fiber dimensions are measured with a
the break force is normalized against fiber laser micrometer to allow for the conversion of
dimensions; i.e., stress = force/cross-sectional force into stress units.
area. This approach measures the underlying Figure 1 shows fatigue results expressed
fundamental tensile properties of a fiber but in as so-called S-N Plots, where the magnitude of
reality, all materials fail at their weakest point. the repeating stress (S) is plotted against the
The presence of any flaw or blemish represents a number of cycles of this stress required to cause
weakness, which can be propagated by repeated fiber breakage (N). Figure 1 contains data for
application of minor stimuli such that failure both virgin Caucasian hair and that procured
will ultimately occur. By means of illustration, from a panelist with shoulder-length hair. Test
when we hear news stories about bridges failing, specimens for the panelist’s hair were taken
it is not because any single vehicle exceeded
the bridge’s break threshold. Instead, it is the
cumulative effect of many vehicles that gradu-
ally propagate minor flaws to failure. In the hair The U.S. market for black hair care, i.e.,
care world, this prompts an analogy to the act shampoos, conditioners, relaxers, etc., is
of grooming, where each and every brush stroke projected to grow from $2.5 billion in 2016 to
imparts repeated fatiguing insult to hair fibers.
nearly $3 billion by 2021.
Flaws in hair fibers can presumably be cre-
ated by a myriad of different actions. Foremost
in our minds, perhaps, are some of the known Source: Global Cosmetic Industry
harmful habits and treatments that are well- (www.GCImagazine.com)

from the very tips, such that testing occurred (i.e., from 0.010–0.011 g/µm2) encountered
on hair with approx. two years of general wear by virgin Caucasian hair can be calculated to
and tear. Despite a relatively high degree of produce an increase in the tendency for fiber
scatter, regression lines for the two data sets breakage comparable to two years' worth of
are virtually parallel and show the panelist’s wear and tear, as seen in the panelist’s hair at
hair breaking after about 70% fewer fatiguing the same stress.
strokes, on average.
This conclusion is considerably more
Effect of
worrisome than the approximate 10% decrease Relative Humidity
in break stress that arises from testing these Another disquieting revelation surfaces
same samples by the traditional stress-strain when performing hair fatiguing experiments
approach. As such, it seems our historical at different relative humidities. As described in
reliance on constant extension rate experiments previous articles in this series, water is a plas-
has consistently been producing a sizable ticizer for hair and water content is implicitly
under-estimate as to the severity of various tied to the relative humidity of the surrounding
treatments on the tendency for hair breakage. environment.3, 7 Therefore, hair’s mechanical
The downward slope of the regression line properties decline with increasing humidity
indicates how faster breakage accompanies but as noted, amplified effects tend to arise in
higher fatiguing stresses. Conceptually, this fatigue experiments.
appears instinctively correct; but the magnitude Figure 2 shows S-N Plots for virgin Cauca-
of this effect is noteworthy. The logarithmic sian hair tested at 20%, 60% and 90% relative
y-axis indicates the presence of an exponential humidity. Again, the regression lines are
relationship between the two variables, such essentially parallel and indicate considerable
that rising fatiguing—grooming—forces result differences in the tendency for breakage. To
in exponentially faster breakage. illustrate, from these regression lines it can be
In short, even relatively slight changes in calculated that a repeating 0.012 g/µm2 stress
grooming forces can have sizable consequences. requires approximately 64,000 cycles to cause
To illustrate this point, from Figure 1, a seem- breakage at 20% RH. Fibers break after around
ingly meager 10% increase in fatiguing forces 5,500 cycles at 60% RH while only 250 cycles
are necessary at 90% RH.
Once again, we are
presented with a non-
obvious variable that has
a significant effect on hair
breakage. Elevated humidity
conditions produce an effect
comparable to—and possibly
greater than—even the most
aggressive chemical treat-
ments. This perhaps makes
us think about geographical
regions where the humid-
ity is often high. However,
nearer to home, our own
bathrooms—where much hair
manipulation takes place—
will be especially humid
after showering.
So why should these
rarely considered factors
Figure 1. S-N Plots for Caucasian and one panelist’s have such extreme effects on
hair at 60% RH hair breakage?

Flaw Propagation Rates Here again, we are faced with another find-
Returning to fatigue theory, in addition to ing that previously would have been considered
the presence of flaws being important, so too unusual. Glycerol has long been a staple in hair
is their propagation rate. Earlier it was stated care formulas, where it is often used to help
how, instinctively, higher convey a product’s “moisturization” proposi-
fatiguing forces would
lead to faster breakage,
presumably because flaw
propagation rates are exacer-
bated by a larger stimulus.
Further to this point,
as fibers become more
pliable, application of an
identical force will now
result in greater deforma-
tion of the sample. This
is hypothesized to be the
underlying reason for the
aforementioned humidity
effects. That is, applica-
tion of a common stress
results in greater sample
deformation as the relative
humidity rises, and so flaws
propagate faster under this
increased stimulus.
A fundamental scien-
Figure 2. S-N Plots for Caucasian hair as a function
tific precept is that a good of RH
hypothesis makes predictions
by which it can be tested. To
this end, if our hypothesis
is true, comparable effects
would be expected from
any other source of fiber
plasticization. Water is able
to plasticize hair because
it is a small molecule that
readily penetrates and
interferes with secondary
electrostatic bonding within
the internal hair protein.
Glycerol has similar (albeit
lesser) properties but unlike
water, it is non-volatile
and remains behind after
drying. Figure 3 thus
shows an S-N Plot of data
for hair previously soaked
in a 10% glycerol solution.
As predicted, a considerably
higher tendency for break-
Figure 3. S-N Plots for hair soaked in 10% glycerol vs.
age is seen in the untreated control
treated hair.

Known factors such as chemical and

heat treatments lead to flaws that are
amplified in fatigue testing.
But unrecognized factors propogating
flaws also must be considered.
tion. Yet, Figure 2 and Figure 3 are strong 300 passes with a commercial straightening
reinforcers of a previous premise from this iron at its maximum heat setting. Substantial
series—namely that water is bad for hair.7 effects indeed ensue.
Effects of Heat on Breakage in African Hair

Hair Breakage No article on hair breakage would be com-
Heat also is often a source of plasticization plete without some discussion of African hair.
in materials. The high temperatures used in This hair type appears especially fragile and
straightening irons—often as high as 230°C or “breakage” is widely referenced as one of the
450°F—are seemingly sufficient to affect the primary concerns for individuals with this hair
hair protein structure, creating flaws. By our type; so much so that it induces very different
theory, frictional forces in combination with a habits and practices in the end user. So, does
plasticized state might enhance flaw propaga- our theory provide explanations?
tion. Therefore, our evolving theory suggests Conventional mechanical testing on virgin,
a potentially sizable tendency for breakage in single-source African hair suggests a dry state
heat-straightened hair. Figure 4 shows S-N Plots break stress that is approximately 10% lower
containing data for hair exposed to both 150 and than virgin Caucasian hair. Therefore, this hair

type does appear intrinsically weaker but not Figure 5, it can be calculated that a repeating
perhaps to a degree that suggests a need for 0.010 g/µm2 stress at 60% RH leads to virgin
highly different habits and practices. Figure 5 Caucasian hair breakage after approximately
shows an S-N Plot containing data from fatigue 37,000 cycles. Virgin African hair, on the other
experiments on these same hair types. As seen hand, breaks after only 5,500 such cycles.
throughout this article, fatigue testing produces On top of this, the highly kinky/curly nature
far bigger—and more worrisome—differences. of African hair will result in significantly higher
For example, from the regression lines in grooming forces. Epps and Wolfram8 reported
Table 1. Average Cycles to Fail Under a Repeating 0.009 g/um2 Fatiguing Force
Treatment and Conditions # cycles-to-fail

Virgin Caucasian hair at 60% RH ≈ 209,000
150 passes at 60% RH ≈ 17,600
300 passes at 60% RH ≈ 3,200
150 passes at 90% RH ≈ 410
300 passes at 90% RH ≈ 120
Figure 4. S-N Plots for Caucasian hair subjected to heat straightening

dry state instrumental combing forces for African hair that were around
10 times higher than for Caucasian hair. From calculations based on our
regression line, a comparatively meager 50% increase in grooming forces
(i.e. from 0.010–0.015 g/µm2) is predicted to induce breakage in African
hair after only 25 fatiguing cycles.
Moreover, this still represents virgin African hair. In 2012, Bryant and
coworkers9 reported an approximate 80% incidence of relaxer usage in this
market. These highly caustic treatments substantially compromise the hair
structure and produce further considerable weakness.
Heat straightening is also a popular treatment for this hair type. From
this short discourse, it quickly becomes evident why breakage in African
hair is such a problem.
It’s All About the Flaws

Our historical perspective of hair breakage has been shaped by
traditional stress-strain tensile experiments that provide fundamental
information about the underlying protein structure.3 In this way, we
recognize how tensile properties can be irreversibly diminished by chemi-
cal treatments, which deplete the number of strength-supporting cystine
bonds within the hair. Similarly, solvation of secondary electrostatic bonds
by water or other such molecules will lower mechanical properties in a
reversible manner.
Yet, fatigue experiments lead to profoundly larger differences between
samples and suggest profusely higher likelihoods of breakage as the result
of known “damage” contributors. Moreover, previously unconsidered fac-
tors also raise their heads and can produce effects that outweigh the
usual suspects.
Figure 5. S-N Plots for virgin Caucasian and African hair at

60% RH

Formulating | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• In recent years, the demand for multicultural
cosmetics has grown, putting pressure on
formulators to extend the shade range of
product offerings.
• The present article reviews the basics of color

science, pigments and formulation concepts
to support developers for this segment.
In
the MIND’S
Eye
all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017
CT1709_Formulating_Singh_fcx.indd 54 8/21/17 1:17 PM

Color Science to
Expand the
Multicultural Palette
Vinay Kumar Singh

Paramount Cosmetics India Ltd., Bangalore, India
lips, eyes and nails—all while applying easily
T
and uniformly, with good texture, skin feel and
durability. Some of the latest color product
forms and claims include the following.
Multifunctional products: Long-lasting,
perfect wear, two-in-one, wet and dry, color
release, adjustable color, oil-free/oil control,
low luster/matte finish, dewy finish and
he global color cosmetics light-diffusing;
global market is expected Color with health benefits: Sun protection,
to reach US $77.7 billion moisturizing, fragrance-free, hypoallergenic
by 2020, according to and non-comedogenic;
Markets and Markets.1 Color plus convenience: Water-resistant/
This growth will be proof, smudge-proof, powder to liquid, slim-
fueled by demand from exacting consumers line, refill pack, trial size;
seeking a plethora colors, finishes, textures, Color plus visual effects: Mottled, swirled,
etc. Cosmetics also are no longer just fash- two/three-in-one, confetti, three-dimensional
ion accessories, they must provide lasting, effects and liquid crystals; and
non-irritating skin benefits in convenient Back to nature: Eco-friendly, natural/
forms. They should create the impression of herbal ingredients, non-synthetic, environmen-
a healthy, natural skin glow; or deliver bold tally friendly and not tested on animals.
and dynamic colors to the
Vol. 132, No.

Reproduction 8 | September
in English 2017
or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 55

In the Mind’s Eye
The human eye has a good capacity to sense

color, so most formulators can visually match
products to skin tones. Still, a range of
shades offers consumers a choice.
Multicultural Market Susan Akkad, senior vice president of local

and cultural platforms and corporate innova-
In recent years, the demand for multicultural
tion for The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.,
beauty products has grown in part due to the
concurred, in Beauty of Fashion, “There’s this
expanding middle classes in emerging markets.
incredible increase in the middle class, very
In fact, the multicultural segment has the
often driven by women’s higher education in a
potential for becoming the largest market for
lot of these markets, that is fueling and increas-
cosmetics companies. Market research group
ing the consumption class.”4
Kline reported that in 2014, the multicultural
In response, some cosmetic manufacturers
beauty products market grew 3.7% in the United
have acquired ethnic beauty businesses with
States alone, outpacing the overall market for
existing consumer bases to build multicultural
cosmetics and toiletries. And considering that
beauty divisions. Others export their existing
three-quarters of the world’s population is now
brands to emerging markets, in multiple shades
non-Caucasian, the days of limited shade ranges
and with multilingual, in-store beauty advisors
and “niche” hair product lines could quickly
and ethnically diverse models in product adver-
become history.2
tising. Regardless of the business approach, the
According to Oru Mohiuddin, strategy ana-
key is to get formulas right by addressing skin
lyst for Euromonitor International, “Caucasian
tone as well as the unique needs of ethnic skin.
consumers have thus far received more atten-
To address skin tone, first consider the basics of
tion for their higher purchasing power, given
color perception.
that per capita spending on beauty in North
America and Western Europe is nearly seven
times more than that of Asia-Pacific … But the
Basic Color Science
Western markets representing Caucasian con- As a review, color is a sensation evoked
sumers are saturated, whereas non-Caucasian by the physical stimulation of light-sensitive
consumers, in the Western as well as other elements in the human retina known as cones.
regional markets, represent untapped potential This stimulation is caused by electromagnetic
for future growth. This is further coupled with radiation in the visible light spectrum compris-
the fact that the purchasing power of non- ing wavelengths between 380 and 780 nm.
Caucasian consumers globally is also rising.”3 Cones can be separated into three classes, each
of which is sensitive to a different spectral distri-
bution of radiation: red, blue and green. Many
different spectral distributions can produce the
Overall, color cosmetics have experienced a same perceived color, a phenomenon known
moderate 2% growth in 2017. However, facial as metamerism, which is fundamental to the
makeup offering relevant skin care benefits science of color measurement.
could reinvigorate sales. Color is the result of perception, not an
objective component of a substance. It is a
psychophysical response to a reaction in the eye,
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry and the brain’s related interpretation of it. As is
(www.GCImagazine.com) well-known, objects absorb certain wavelengths
and reflect others back to the viewer, which we

perceive as color. As such, different individuals tion is the same for consumers, as stated, each
perceive color differently. resulting perception is unique to the individual.
Interpretations may occur based on the medium
Color Synthesis through which the light travels, one’s mood or
There are two main types of color synthesis: emotions—even lighting in the boutique where
that reflected by an opaque object and that cosmetics are “tried on” for purchase. Thus, the
transmitted through a medium. These are cosmetics industry offers colors that are liked by
referred to as subtractive and additive color most but in a range that appeals to all.
synthesis, respectively.
Subtractive color synthesis begins with white Color Measurements
and ends with black. As opaque color is added, As described, the absorption and reflec-
the eye perceives less and less of the full white tion of different wavelengths of light produces
spectrum, thus the color becomes darker and color, and these wavelengths can be measured
eventually reaches black. The most basic colors by devices such as a spectrophotometer or
in the subtractive system are cyan (C), magenta colorimeter. In both cases, multiple sensors
(M), yellow (Y) and black (K) (see Figure 1). receive transmitted or reflected light via a
This is what we see in nature, and the number microprocessor. Both measure either emissive
of possible CMYK color combinations is limited. or reflective light, and are available in lab versus
Painters, printers, color formulators, etc., use a consumer grades. The main difference is how
white base to mix these opaque colors to achieve they read color.5
the desired shade.
On the other hand, the additive
color system, which is used in televi-
sion and computer displays, starts
with black (the absence of light) and
transmits single wavelength colors
that, once all are added together,
eventually create white light. In the
additive system, the primary colors
are red, green and blue (RGB) (see
Figure 1). These can create a nearly
limitless number of color possibili-
ties, although additive colors are
metameric and cannot be printed.
This poses a challenge to display
makeup color options via additive-
type backlit technologies, such
as smart phones and tablets, that
match the color shade of subtrac-
tive-produced cosmetics.
Figure 1. Additive and subtractive color systems
In either case, color is reflected
or transmitted to the eye. And no
matter how complex its wavelengths,
it is reduced to three color compo-
nents—red, green and blue—by the
Definitions
cones in the eye. For each location Chroma, intensity, saturation and luminance/value
in the visual field, the three types of are interrelated terms used to describe color:
cones yield three signals based on the
extent to which each is stimulated. • Chroma refers to purity
These RGB stimulus levels are often • Saturation is the degree of purity
referred to as tristimulus values. • Intensity is the brightness or dullness and
While the mechanism of percep- • Luminance refers to the amount of light reflected.

In the Mind’s Eye
According to equipment manufacturer Hunt- use levels and for given body sites. Formulators
erLab,6 a colorimeter is designed to perform a should familiarize themselves with the rules
psychophysical sample analysis by mimicking of the market for which they are developing
human eye-brain perception. In other words, it a product.
sees color the way humans do. Colorimeters use Certification required: Color additives
a set illuminant and Commission Internationale originally derived from coal tar—today, primar-
de l’Éclairage (CIE) 10-degree standard observer ily from petroleum—are known as coal-tar
combination, along with a tristimulus (RGB) dyes or synthetic-organic colors. Coal-tar colors
absorption filter that isolates a broad band of consist of one or more substances either made
wavelengths. From this, the colorimeter distills from coal-tar or derived from intermediates of
color information into X, Y and Z values that the same identity as coal-tar intermediates. They
produce objective color data. may also include diluents or substrata.
In contrast, a spectrophotometer takes full This is the largest group of colorants. Many
spectrum color measurements, rather than are azo dyes—i.e., dyes whose molecules contain
isolating wavelength bands. By providing the two adjacent nitrogen atoms between carbon
wavelength-by-wavelength spectral analysis atoms—but many other organic group-based
of a sample’s reflectance, absorbance or trans- dyes such as quinoline, xanthene and indigoid
mittance properties, it produces precise data are also used. Except in the case of coal-tar
beyond that observable by the human eye. hair dyes, these colors must not be used in
Perhaps the most familiar color space the United States unless the FDA has certified
descriptor to cosmetic chemists is the device- that the batch in question passes the FDA’s lab
independent CIE L*a*b* or CIELAB. This analysis for composition and purity.
three-axis model includes a dimension for light- Certification-exempt: Exempted color addi-
ness (L), as well as dimensions for the green/ tives are obtained primarily from mineral, plant
red (a) and blue-yellow (b) color opposites. This or animal sources. They are not subject to batch
model also seeks to mimic human vision by add- certification requirements but they are still
ing the component L to account for the human considered artificial colors. And when used in
perception of lightness. cosmetics or other FDA-regulated products, they
Although the L*a*b* color space is often con- must comply with the identity, specifications,
sidered the most exact representation of color, uses, restrictions and labeling requirements
it is not the most commonly used. Typically, it is stated in the regulations.
converted to the simplified color spaces of RGB Examples of these “natural” colors include:
and CYMK.7 There are other adaptations of the
• Annatto, extracted from annatto seeds
L*a*b* color matching system as well, including
with color varying from butter yellow
the Munsell color wheel and the Pantone color
to peach;
chart. In my experience, however, I find that
nothing compares with the human eye. Our eyes • Caramel, brown in color and derived
have a good capacity to match color, so formula- from the careful heating of sugar, molas-
tors can, in most cases, visually match pigments ses, dextrose, etc.;
in products to various skin tones. Still, a range • Carmine or cochineal extract, a strong
of shades often is developed to give consumers a violet color derived from the bodies of the
choice in what they perceive as matching best. female insect Coccus cacti;
• Beta carotene, a bright orange/red color
Colorants and derived from carrots, alfalfa and
Nomenclature certain cereals;
• Iron oxides (natural and synthetic);
Over decades, the U.S. Food and Drug
• Ultramarines;
Administration (FDA) has taken up the monu-
• Bronze and copper powder; and
mental task of assessing the safety of color
• Manganese violet.
additives. The administration generally classifies
them in two groups: those requiring certifica- Additional classifications: Beyond clas-
tion, and those exempt from certification, sification by certification requirements, the
described next.8 In addition, many regulating FDA also refers to color additives as straight
bodies restrict the use of colorants at certain colors, lakes and mixtures. Straight colors are

color additives that have not been mixed or and number alone without a prefix, such as
chemically reacted with any other substance; for “Yellow 5.” Certification-exempt color additives
example, FD&C Blue No. 1 or Blue 1. are simply listed by name.
Lakes are formed by chemically reacting, In Europe, color additives are referred to
e.g., via adsorption, coprecipitation or other by their assigned European Commission (EC)
chemical processes, straight colors with precipi- number, e.g., E102 (tartrazine). However, many
tants and substrata; for example, Blue 1 Lake. countries also list colors by their Color Index
Since lakes are not soluble in water, they often (CI) number. These are assigned by the Society
are used to keep a color from “bleeding,” as of Dyers and Colorists in the U.K. This scheme
in lipstick. covers colors used in food, personal care and
Mixtures are color additives formed by mix- cosmetics, as well as household products and
ing one color additive with one or more other fabric dyes; for example, CI19140 (tartrazine) or
color additives or non-colored diluents without CI45430 (erythrosine).
using a chemical reaction. One example is food
ink used in confectionery applications.9
Formulating for
Naming conventions: In the United States, Multiethnic Skin Needs
certified color additives generally have three- Multiethnic skin requires a broad array of
part names, including: a) a designation for color formula options to ensure the best match.
approved use, such as FD&C, D&C or External In addition, like any other skin type, it is impor-
D&C; b) a color; and c) a number. Regarding the tant to consider fundamental skin differences.
approved use, F refers food, D to drug and C to African skin, for example, contains less mois-
cosmetic. For example, “FD&C Yellow No. 5” ture. And pore sizes vary among ethnicities.
is approved for use in food, drug and cosmetic Mohiuddin described key considerations
applications. Certified colors also may be identi- of formulating for ethnic differences, which
fied in cosmetic ingredient declarations by color in some cases can add cost. “This [approach]

In the Mind’s Eye
In addition to color, texture must be

carefully engineered, as products can
appear chalkier on ethnic skin.
requires more complex formulations, necessitat- Balancing color tone: As stated, formulators
ing the use of rare and uncommon ingredients. can use devices such as a spectrophotometer
Foundation for [Caucasian] skin requires a linked to a computer to balance tones and
maximum of three different shades, whereas achieve the desired color. Titanium dioxide,
ethnic skin requires a greater number of shades. typically from 3% to 10%, is widely used as the
In addition, texture needs to be carefully primary white pigment to achieve color balance
engineered, as products can appear chalkier on and opacity. Zinc oxide, from 1% to 10%, is also
ethnic skin.”3 used on occasion; usually no more than 3% to
Texturizing agents, sebum absorption: In 4% for darker ethnic or black African shades.
general, texturizing agents provide skin smooth- Special and natural effects: For special
ness, and fill in lines and wrinkles. They can also effects, pigments such as transparent iron
moisturize and add brightness, soft focus and oxides—e.g., red iron oxide (Fe2O3), yellow
optical effects. Nylon powders improve applica- iron oxide (Fe2O3 • xH2O) and black iron oxide
tion to the skin, while silica or polymer beads (Fe3O4), whose refractive indices are very similar
also create soft focus effects. Concerning oily to the foundation medium, can be included to
skin, microsphere powders with a high degree achieve desired hues. Such iron oxides are typi-
of porosity absorb sebum, thereby suppressing cally nanoscale in nature, and as their particle
greasiness and improving the overall finish for a sizes become smaller, their chalky appearance
shine-free effect. on ethnic skin tones becomes less noticeable.
Pigments: Inorganic pigments, especially Due to their transparency, these pigments allow
iron oxides and titanium dioxide, are generally complex, darker skin tones to shine through
used in all foundation shades. Such pigment makeup, giving a more natural color appear-
dispersions typically consist of surface-treated ance. Multi-color pearlescent pigments can also
pigments milled together with a dispersant create shimmering, tonal effects on the skin.
and a liquid silicone, water, an ester, or natural Ultramarine pigments such as blue may
oils. In some cases, the base formulation may also be used either to supplement or replace
need to be adjusted so the iron oxides are better black iron oxide in specific foundation shades,
dispersed within the overall system, to promote especially where a more vibrant, darker tone
better color value. Greater levels or different is essential. Due to the low refractive index of
types of emulsifiers or dispersants may be ultramarine blue, it has a high degree of trans-
required to address this. Predispersed pig- parency and becomes very dark when paired
ments in oils and solvents work well in solving with oils or esters that are close to its
this problem. refractive index.
Stability and rheology: Note that increased Transparency and fillers: Microsphere
levels of iron oxides in makeup emulsions can pigments can improve the transparency of
affect stability and rheology. This is due to products on ethnic skin when dispersed in the
differences in the oil absorption of the pigments right medium. For example, in one study, color
and the presence of water-soluble salts. Thus, experts from Kobo Products measured the
surface-treating iron oxides with coatings such contrast ratio of 30 raw materials, including
as silicones, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, microsphere pigments and powders dispersed in
fatty acids, lecithin or other substances helps to jojoba oil, using a spectrophotometer; contrast
improve color dispersion and stability. ratio refers to the transparency/opacity of an

ingredient or a formulation. Five measurements produces custom-made lipstick shades by send-
were taken for each material and averaged. ing a lip palette to consumers in the mail, which
Here, microspheres and a number of fillers, they then mix to their preferred shade. Thus, the
such as barium sulfate and lithium magnesium consumer can become the creator.
silicate, were found to be very transparent. In
addition, talc and mica (muscovite), the most Foundation’s New Frontier
commonly used fillers, had not only good While formulators are charged with mixing
transparency, but were relatively inexpensive. a full spectrum of color shades, technology
Biotite was another filler option; it combines the is making the matching process easier. These
properties of mica with iron oxides. smart, outside-of-the-box concepts are taking
Generally speaking, the remaining micro- great strides for the beauty industry. Still, natu-
spheres and fillers were translucent, with the ral light is ideal for seeing the true match. In
exception of boron nitride, which was opaque. the end, there is room for the industry to extend
Boron nitride, however, can be used for improv- the color palette beyond medium caramels, to
ing all shades by replacing titanium dioxide women of dark chocolate tones—in a natural,
or zinc oxide at varying levels. It has excel- personalized way.
lent cosmetic properties due to its hexagonal
plate structure—similar to the well-known References
lubricant graphite.
All websites accessed on August 1, 2017.
Inorganic pigments also vary in opacity,
1. marketsandmarkets.com/PressReleases/color-cosmetic.asp
depending upon their particle size and chem-
2. getthegloss.com/career-news/
istry. Ultramarine blue and other ultramarines multicultural-beauty-looks-set-to-become-bigger-than-ever
are translucent; as is nano-sized zinc oxide. 3. Multicultural Beauty Represent Untapped Market Potential
Nano-sized titanium dioxide also demonstrates but Not Without Challenges, euromonitor.com?utm_
campaign=Allured&utm_medium=Licensing&utm_
low opacity.
source=Partner&utm_content=Cosmetic%20Toiletries%20
Science%20Applied
SPF and Customization 4. businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/
It is worth mentioning that for today’s sixty-six-shades-skin-tapping-multicultural-beauty-market
demanding market, color cosmetics have been 5. http://support.datacolor.com/index.php?/

Knowledgebase/Article/View/1231/32/
developed to impart multifunctional benefits whats-the-difference-between-a-spectrophotometer-and-
such as SPF; or to enable customizable color a-colorimeter-ive-been-told-that-a-spectrophotometer-is-
and benefit options. To provide sun protec- better-but-im-unclear-on-how-and-why
tion, pigmentary and nano-sized pigments of 6. hunterlab.com/blog/color-measurement-2/

colorimeter-vs-spectrophotometer-knowing-the-differences-
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are used in mul- among-color-measurement-technologies/
tiethnic formulations. And customization has 7. mathworks.com/discovery/lab-color.html
evolved to ensure better color-matching; Boots’ 8. fda.gov/forindustry/coloradditives/coloradditivesinspecific-
No. 7, for example, employs X-Rite’s hand-held products/incosmetics/ucm110032.htm
spectrocolorimeter in-store to measure an indi- 9. fda.gov/forindustry/coloradditives/
vidual’s skin tone from a multitude of angles, to regulatoryprocesshistoricalperspectives/
be sure to match skin tones as accurately as pos-

sible. This color-sensing technology was driven Additional Reading
by demand from consumers who indicated they blog.euromonitor.com/2013/10/brands-find-eethnic-beauty-
would change their foundation if a better match space-worth-development.html
could be found. SkinInc.com/treatments/facial/brightening/The-Truth-About-
Similarly, Sephora and Pantone’s Color IQ Treating-Multicultural-Skin-277821561.html?prodrefresh=y
Tool uses a handheld device to take pictures glamour.com/story/

how-to-find-the-right-shade-for-your-skin-tone
of consumers’ skin. A Pantone number is then
refinery29.com/foundation-dark-skin-tones
assigned and an iPad app generates a list of
multiculturalbeauty.about.com/od/Makeup/a/How-To-
matching foundations available in Sephora Match-Foundation-To-Skin-Tone.htm
stores and online. loreal.com/research-and-innovation/when-the-
Furthermore, do-it-yourself (DIY) concepts diversity-of-types-of-beauty-inspires-science/
are creeping onto the personal care radar, more stories-of-multicultural-innovations
and more. Finding Ferdinand, for example, racked.com/2015/3/10/8176275/

beauty-industry-women-of-color-makeup-cosmetics

KEY POINTS
• Building viscosity and clarity in surfactant
systems, especially those that are sulfate-free
and have high fragrance loads, is challenging.
• In response, a new six-armed nonionic

associative thickener was developed that
effectively bridges many small micelles to
create larger, bridged structures that improve
viscosity, while retaining clarity.
CT1709_Formulating_Lin_fcx.indd 62 8/22/17 2:12 PM

Blue Sky
Thinking
Star Polymer Aligns Clarity with Viscosity
for High-perfume Surfactant Systems
Samuel Lin, Ph.D., and Xu Qin, Ph.D.

Applechem Inc., Parsippany, NJ, USA
P erfume is an important
product attribute that
differentiates a given
personal cleansing
product from others
in a crowded market.
However, it remains technically challenging to
incorporate high percentages of fragrance oil
(≥ 2%) into shampoo or shower gel formula-
tions without adverse effects on clarity, target
viscosity and foaming, as will be explained.
This technical challenge has become more
acid based surfactants such as sodium cocoyl
glutamate. This article describes approaches
to build viscosity in cleansing formulas and
presents a new concept based on a multi-arm,
nonionic associative thickening polymer.
Viscosity Basics
All surfactants are composed of a hydro-
philic head and a hydrophobic tail. When the
ratio of head area/tail area is > 3, the geometric
packing of surfactants in water favors a small
spherical micelle structure, which leads to
significant, especially as the market continues a low viscosity. When this ratio is between 3
to move toward skin-friendly cleansing formu- and 2, the curvature of surfactant structures
lations using non-sulfate surfactants such as is reduced, leading to the formation of a rod
alpha olefin sulfonate (AOS), and mild amino- micellar structure, which creates viscosity. In

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2017 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 63

Blue Sky Thinking
The ideal location to influence and manage

surfactant packing geometry is at the
hydrophilic head group.
essence, larger rod micelles equal higher viscos- Hydrophobic nonionic thickeners: Lastly,
ity (see Figure 1). hydrophobic nonionic surfactant thickeners
The hydrophobic tails of all surfactants generally possess a low molecular weight with a
and hydrophobic thickeners are composed of small head group and efficiently induce the for-
a C8-C14 alkane chain, which precludes any mation of large ordered micelle structures, such
significant modifications. Thus, the ideal loca- as a rod micelle or a large lamellar liquid crystal
tion to influence and manage surfactant packing structure, with high shear thinning viscosity.
geometry is at the hydrophilic head group. Common thickeners include glyceryl caprylate/
Figure 1 illustrates the classical approach to caprate, glyceryl monolaurate, cocamide MIPA,
thickening a surfactant cleansing formulation by cocamide DIPA and isostearic acid.
transforming the surfactant micellar structure
from small spherical micelles to elongated rod Additives, Viscosity
micelles using salt, co-surfactants and hydro- and Clarity
phobic nonionic surfactant thickeners. All three
Shampoos, shower gels and other personal
strategies reduce the curvature of the micelle
cleansing products face a commercial reality:
structure by decreasing head group areas.
they must contain perfume oil, extracts, actives,
Salt: Owing to charge-charge repulsion in
preservatives, chelators, etc., to differentiate
water, the head groups of primary anionic sur-
brands and appease target consumers. However,
factants have an effective head group area larger
the viscosity and clarity of personal cleansers
than their actual physical area. Incorporation
are sensitive to the relative concentrations of
of salt into formulations reduces charge-charge
almost every component in a formulation, one
repulsion and practically reduces the effective
being perfume oil.
area of the surfactant head group.
For example, modern, sulfate-free surfactant
Co-surfactants: Co-surfactants, such as
formulas with the desired clear appearance and
cocamidopropyl betaine, have a smaller effective
high perfume content generally comprise a mix
head group area due to their amphoteric nature.
of small and short, rod and spherical micelles;
When co-surfactants are blended with primary
as such, the trade-off tends to be low viscosity.
surfactants and positioned between two anionic
Indeed, the inclusion of most any additives
primary surfactant molecules, they reduce the
such as salt or alcohol can interrupt the packing
overall head group area, leading to the forma-
of surfactant molecules in water, resulting in
tion of rod micelle structures.
lower viscosity.
Additives also can change the size, shape,
density and water solubility of surfactant micel-
lar structures, and any changes that decrease
the water solubility of any component may
The U.S. “Other Toiletries” market, consisting
change the refractive index of the system, caus-
primarily of personal cleansers, deodorants
ing opacity. As another example, to maintain
and shave products, was valued at $11 billion shampoo clarity, perfume oil molecules must
in 2016, up 2.7% from 2015. exist as microemulsions or be packed inside of
surfactant micellar structures and/or perfume
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry solubilizers. Otherwise, they form aggregates,
(www.GCImagazine.com)

particles or phases that are not soluble in water Figure 2. Here, note the colors of the bars
and are large enough to diffract light. Thus, any correlate with clarity, as determined by visual
changes that decrease the capacity of micelles assessment. This cleansing formulation contains
to carry perfume molecules would force those 17.5% surfactant actives comprising 20% SLES
molecules out, where they would separate as (70%), 10% cocamidopropyl betaine and 0.1%
aggregates or droplets and cause opacity. EDTA at a pH of 5.5.
Even the incorporation of additives to Salt, which is used to increase viscosity,
increase viscosity or improve clarity can have causes the formulation to become opaque with
unintended consequences, as shown in or without 3% perfume. Why? Because although
Figure 1. Thickening surfactant formulation by changing micellar packing

Blue Sky Thinking
Figure 2. The concentration of many key components affects clarity
salt increases the size of the surfactant micelles, of perfume solubilizers and some work better
favorably increasing viscosity, it also decreases than others with given perfumes and systems.
water solubility and this combination can For example, as shown in Figure 2, while the
increase light diffraction, causing opacity. addition of 3% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Alternatively, the addition of 4% glyceryl was ineffective, the addition of 3% polysorbate
caprylate/caprate (GCC), a hydrophobic 80 improved clarity; then again, it significantly
thickener, effectively increases the viscosity decreased viscosity.
while maintaining desirable clarity. However, In summary, many of the common core
the formulation again becomes opaque with components in surfactant formulations—includ-
the addition of 3% perfume. Why? Because ing salt, perfume, hydrophobic thickener,
this thickener favorably changes surfactant perfume oils and perfume solubilizers—can
packing in terms of viscosity, but this packing produce unexpected negative effects on clar-
does not support the incorporation of perfume ity and viscosity above certain concentration
molecules. Thus, when 3% perfume is added, thresholds. This example of an SLES surfactant
the micelles cannot carry it and some perfume formulation, in Figure 2, illustrates the techni-
molecules separate out as large aggregates, cal challenges many formulators face when
causing opacity. developing commercial shampoos or shower
One classical approach to enhancing clarity gels with desired clarity and viscosity.
is incorporating a perfume solubilizer. Perfume When the surfactants are non-sulfate surfac-
solubilizers work by forming micellar solutions tants, however, the technical challenges become
with perfume molecules. There are many types more significant. For example, Figure 3 shows

Figure 3. Micellar structures in surfactant formulations; non-sulfate surfactants have: a
larger head group (a) and smaller micellar structures (b); surfactants + glycols, actives, extracts,
perfumes, etc. (c)
Figure 4. Sorbeth-230 tetraoleate’s six-arm structure

Blue Sky Thinking
Additives such as
salt, perfume oils
and thickeners can
negatively affect
solubility and
surfactant packing.
molecular models of SLES and amino-based affecting the original surfactant micelle packing.
sulfate-free surfactants and their likely micel- Larger, bridged micellar structures result in
lar structures and sizes. The hydrophilic head higher viscosities. Overall, the number of arms
groups of the glycinate and glutamate surfac- a nonionic associative thickener has is directly
tants are larger than that of SLES surfactants correlated with the efficiency with which it can
(see Figure 3a). Hence, they are more difficult build viscosity in surfactant formulations. This
to formulate into long, rod micellar structures to concept is illustrated in Figure 4.
achieve desired viscosity levels (see Figure 3b) PEG-150 distearate, for example, possesses
since the resulting micellar structures will be two arms and two hydrophobic groups and can
smaller and more numerous. bridge two surfactant micelles. This leads to a
small, bridged micellar structure with a modest
Nonionic Associative increase in viscosity. Therefore, its effects are
Thickening limited and even ineffective in surfactant formu-
Another approach to thickening surfactant lations having large numbers of small micellar
formulations is using nonionic associated structures, such as a non-sulfate surfactant
thickeners. They work by bridging surfactant formulas or sulfate surfactant formulas with
micelles with hydrophobic fatty groups, result- many additives.
ing in a micellar network structure that is much Other nonionic associative thickeners have
larger than the original micelles—without been developed with three and four arms,

capped with fatty acids such as stearic and and ethylene oxide (see Figure 5). Subsequent
oleic. Examples include PEG-200 hydrogented reactions with naturally sourced oleic acid form
glyceryl palmate with three arms; and PEG-150 four hydrophobic interaction oleic groups at
pentarythrityl tetrastearate and PEG-120 methyl the end of the arms, and these six hydrophilic
glucose trioleate with four arms. arms and four hydrophobic groups can thicken
More recently, a six-armed sorbeth-230 sulfate-free surfactant formulas by bridging
tetraoleatea was developed from natural sorbitol across much larger micellar structures. Hence,
this star-shaped polymer can build viscosity
a
SorbiThix L-100 (INCI: Sorbeth-230 Tetraoleate (and) Decyl efficiently in all surfactant formulations.
Glucoside (and) Sorbitan Laurate), Applechem Inc.
Figure 5. Thickening mechanism of non-associative thickeners
Figure 6. Effect of the number of arms on thickening efficacy

Blue Sky Thinking
Formula 1. Clear and High-perfume Oil Shampoo
SLES (%) AOS (%) Glutamate (%)

Water (Aqua) 68.40 68.40 70.10
EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.10 0.10 0.10
Glycerin 1.00 1.00 1.00
Cocamidoproply Betaine (35%) 10.00 10.00 8.00
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxylsultaine (Cola Teric CBS-HP,
50%, Colonial Chemical) n/a n/a 4.00
Decyl Glucoside (50%) n/a 6.00 n/a
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (88%) n/a 8.00 n/a
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (70%) 14.00 n/a n/a
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (Amisoft CS-11, Ajinomoto) n/a n/a 9.00
Amodimethicone (and) C11-15 Pareth-7 (and) Laureth-9
(and) Glycerin (and) Trideceth-12 (Silsoft 253, Momentive) 1.00 1.00 n/a
Water (Aqua) (and) Silicone Quaternium-18 (and) Trideceth-6
(and) Trideceth-12 (Silsoft Q PMF, Momentive) n/a n/a 1.00
Sorbeth-230 Teteraolead (and) Decyl Glucoside (and)
Sobitan Laurate (SorbiThix L-100, Applechem Inc.) 2.40 2.40 3.70
Fragrance (Parfum) Oil 3.00 3.00 3.00
Citric Acid to pH 5.5 qs qs qs
Viscosity, cp ~10,000
Viscosity Comparison nonionic associative thickener was developed

that effectively bridges many small micelles in
A comparison of the viscosity of the same
surfactant systems to create larger, bridged
cleansing formulation used in Figure 2—i.e.,
micellar structures, ultimately improving
20% SLES (70%), 10% cocamidopropyl betaine
viscosity and retaining clarity. Formula 1
and 0.1% EDTA at pH 5.5—and using commer-
demonstrates three shampoos utilizing this
cial thickeners having different numbers of arms
thickener with three surfactants: SLES, AOS
is shown in Figure 6. Thickeners ranged from
and glutamate, which remain clear with 3%
two arms: PEG-150 distearate; and three arms:
perfume oil. This technology not only answers a
PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate (and)
formulation challenge in the industry, but can
PEG-7 glyceryl gocoate; to four arms: PEG-
empower formulators to create beyond tradi-
150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (and) PEG-6
tional constraints.
caprylic/capric glycerides (and) water (aqua);
and six arms: sorbeth-230 tetraoleate (and)
decyl glucoside (and) sorbitan laurate. While all
formulations were clear, the six armed-polymer
proved to be the most efficient thickener.
Conclusions C&T Webcasts

Building viscosity and clarity in surfactant Find current and upcoming webcasts at
systems, especially those that are sulfate-free www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
and have high fragrance loads, is an important
technical challenge in today’s personal care
product space. In response, a new six-arm

Foundation and Color Formulary
Color D. Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Chlorphenesin

MAKE IT LAST (Mikrokill COS, Lonza Consumer Care) 0.75
MAKEUP SETTING SPRAY Fragrance (parfum) qs
100.00
(Croda) Procedure: Heat A to 90°C while stirring. Separately weigh C and blend. When
Designed to deliver exceptional makeup-extending benefits, this clear formulation homogeneous, add B to C and homogenize until blend appears muddy. Add
leaves the face feeling refreshed and comfortable. Makeup is held in place all day by preheated A to BC, maintaining the temp. between 70°C–80°C. Add D under
a film-forming technology made comfortable by Crodamol STS, which detackifies and moderate stirring. Pour mix into mold and place in freezer for a few min. Insert
works in synergy with Arlasilk PLN to deliver silky formulation aesthetics. bullet into suitable lipstick container.
A. Water (aqua) 76.70% w/w

Alcohol 8.00
Color
Poloxamer 407 (Synperonic PE/F127, Croda) 1.50 CREAM COMPACT
PVP (PVP K-15, K-30, K-60, K-90 and K-120,
Ashland Specialty Ingredients) 3.00 FOUNDATION
B. Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20, Croda) 7.50
(BASF Corp.)
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (Crodamol STS, Croda) 0.50
C. Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate A. Polyethylene (Performalene 400 Polyethylene, New Phase
Dimethicone (Arlasilk PLN, Croda) 1.00 Technologies Inc.) 3.4% w/w
D. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl Microcrystalline Wax 2.55
PE 9010, schulke) 0.60 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 3.40
E. Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20, Croda) 0.20 Cocoglycerides (Myritol 331, BASF SE) 8.45
Fragrance (parfum) 1.00 Undecane (and) Tridecane (Cetiol Ultimate, BASF SE) 8.45
100.00 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Cutina HR, BASF SE) 4.20
Procedure: Add A in main beaker and heat to 60°C while propeller mixing. When a Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone
clear solution is achieved, start cooling to RT. At 50°C, premix B, solubilize and Crosspolymer (KSG-16, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd.) 4.20
add to A, while propeller mixing until uniform. When uniform, add C to the main Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and)
beaker and continue mixing until uniform. At 40°C, add D to the main beaker and Propylene Carbonate (Cosmedia Gel CC, BASF SE) 10.15
continue mixing until uniform. At 30°C, premix E to the main beaker and continue B. Propylheptyl Caprylate (Cetiol Sensoft , BASF SE) 25.32
mixing until uniform. At RT, stop mixing and check specifications. Titanium Dioxide 12.65
Iron Oxide Red 0.25
Iron Oxide Black 0.08
Color Iron Oxide Yellow 1.35
MATTE ELECTRIC C. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Lauroyl Lysine (Chione M SVA,
BASF Corporation) 8.45
PINK LIPSTICK Nylon-12 2.10
(Sandochem LLC) Talc 1.30
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (Chione HD
A. Isodecyl Neopentanoate 6.00% w/w Crisp Gold, BASF Corporation) 1.70
Petrolatum 4.85 D. Preservatives 1.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex SheaSoft, AAK) 1.20 Tocopherol Acetate 1.00
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer 1.00 100.00
Butylated Hydroxytoluene 0.10
Isohexadecane (Arlamol HD, Croda) 5.00 Procedure: Heat A to 85°C ± 5°C, while medium speed mixing until uniform. Pre-
pare B colorants by dispersing in caprylate via homogenizer. While maintaining
Diisopropyl Adipate (Ceraphyl 230, Ashland Specialty
temperature: add B to A with medium speed mixing until uniform; add C to AB
Ingredients) 4.00
with medium speed mixing until uniform; add D to ABC with medium speed
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 10.00 mixing until uniform; then homogenize for 30 min. Finally, while maintaining
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax 8.40 temperature, fill components.
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax 3.30
Cera Alba (Beeswax) 3.60
Ozokerite 1.90
Anhydrous Lanolin 4.85
B. Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil 27.55
C. Pigment Red 63:1 1.13
CI 15850 4.60 C&T Foundation and Color Formulary
CI 77891 0.59
CI 77499 0.18 Click here for more foundation and color formulas,
Mica 3.00 exclusively featured in our Digital Edition!
Talc 3.00
Alumina (and) Silica (Koelex HM, Sandochem LLC) 5.00 http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
CT1709_Form_Formulary_fcx.indd 71 8/28/17 11:04 AM

Advertiser Index | C&T ®
September 2017 | Volume 132, number 8
AAK Personal Care Covestro/Bayer MilliporeSigma

C2 21 53
lipid@aak.com Materialscience AG sigma-aldrich.com/strat-m
www.aakpersonalcare.com cosmetics@covestro.com
www.baycusan.com
Ins
Reed Exhibitions/
AMA Laboratories, Inc. in-cosmetics North America
14
www.amalabs.com Evonik www.in-cosmeticsnorthamerica.com
3
personal-care@evonik.com
www.elements-of-care.com Sytheon Ltd.
AMETEK Brookfield 11
44
info@brookfieldengineering.com info@sytheonltd.com
www.brookfieldengineering.com Excellentia International www.sytheonltd.com
45
sales@excellentiaint.com
Angus Chemical Company www.excellentiaint.com Wacker Chemie AG
C4 5
info@angus.com www.wacker.com
www.angus.com Grant Industries
1
info@grantinc.com
Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.
www.grantinc.com 52
California SCC www.welch-holme-clark.com
65
suppliersday@caliscc.org
www.caliscc.org Ikeda Corp.
41
info@ikeda-america.com
www.ikeda-corp.co.jp
Clariant International Ltd.
7
info@clariant.com
www.personalcare.clariant.com Innospec Ltd
17
americas-pc@innospecinc.com
www.innospecinc.com
Colonial Chemical, Inc.
C3
www.colonialchem.com
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
9
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
CT1709_Advertiser_Index_fcx.indd 72 8/21/17 2:22 PM

Market Intelligence | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Skin tone can impact the ways people
view aging.
• Social and economic status affect consumers’

skin care regimens, as well as the age at
which they get serious about preventing and
reversing damage.
5
Drivers of
Multicultural
Skin Care*
Here, direct consumer feedback highlights the ways culture, class and
age shape the beauty care choices consumers make.
N
Editor’s note: Adapted with permission from Global Cosmetic Industry, available at: http://bit.ly/2iciUGu.
Elle Morris
Consultant, The Clientist
orth American women are a blended palette
of races, cultures and traditions. Beauty
regimens in the region are as diverse as the
women themselves, with skin tone, cultural
heritage, socioeconomics and age all part of
the equation.

Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017 all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DE1
CT1709_DE_Mrkt_Rprt_fcx2.indd 9 8/28/17 10:59 AM

African-American women with
dark skin tones are less worried about
anti-aging regimens because their skin
hardly seems to wrinkle.
1. It’s All About Tone 2. The Beauty/Culture

Women with fair skin are often hyper-con- Intersection
scious about aging. The more fair the skin tone, Cultural heritage and socioeconomics also
the more conscious they seem to be. Women play a part in determining skin care and beauty
with highly fair skin often see no benefit in regimens. In Asia, fair skin is seen as beautiful
tanning, so they seek products that prevent because it indicates a woman is affluent or
sunburn and hydrate skin. educated enough to avoid working outdoors.
As a fair-skinned Latina myself, protecting my In North America, tan skin is typically seen
alabaster-skinned Cuban grandmother’s Euro- as beautiful because it indicates a woman has
pean heritage was important to my maternal enough time, and consequently money,
family and sunscreen was heavily endorsed for sunbathing.
from a young age. Conversely, my Latina friends Latinas, however, differ based on their heri-
with darker skin tones didn’t become concerned tage. With a wide variety of skin tones, beauty
with anti-aging regimens or sun-damage until regimens are determined by how a Latina
they were at least 40. self-identifies. For instance, my Cuban mother
and grandmother insisted starting me on a skin
“As a very fair-skinned Latina who easily care regimen at age 13 and made me promise
burns and attracts freckles/brown spots, first, to always take my makeup off before bed, no
I stay away from the sun. I wear sunscreen matter how tired I was.
religiously—even if it’s cloudy out. I definitely Those lessons stuck with me. Even in college,
invest time in moisturizer and I have a regi- after a night out, I would always be the only one
men for cleaning my face, which includes the in the bathroom washing my face and removing
use of a cleansing device. I also love to get makeup.
facials. I wish I could get them monthly.” Most African-American women were not taught
—Ivette, Cuban woman, 40 to embrace any specific skin care regimen;
they were taught to focus on a healthy diet and
Many African-American women with natural lifestyle to promote healthy skin.
dark skin tones never worry about anti-aging
regimens because their skin hardly seems to “I don’t buy any anti-aging, nor did any of
wrinkle. They tend to focus on a healthy diet the older females in my family! Black don’t
and natural lifestyle to promote healthy skin. crack!”
—Zee, African-American woman, 26
“My secret is simple: low stress, plenty of
rest and lots of water. I don’t buy any anti- “For some reason, I feel like the anti-aging
aging products. I cleanse and moisturize.” products would kill my skin’s mojo—LOL!
I do moisturize, am all about the sunblock
—Cee, African-American woman, 35 and will splurge on eye cream because that
DE2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017

is where I see most AA women age (plus, I Once these signs of aging appear, these
fly, have insane work hours and go out a women are eager for products that will help
lot, soooo ... ). Water is critical. I have tried slow or even prevent the process.
powdered collagen and will do under-chin
exercises to keep my face taut :-).” “Wash, exfoliate a few times a week,
serum, moisturizer with SPF a must during
—Jetta, African-American woman, gen Xer day (at night sculpting cream), eye cream.
And I never forget to do all this on my neck—
3. Diverse Regimens nothing like a wrinkly neck to give away
The skin care and beauty regimens of many your age.”
Caucasian women depend on their socio- —Beth, Caucasian woman, 35
economic status and heritage. More affluent
families tend to begin skin care regimens young “Cleanse with a sonic brush, then SK-II
to combat aging. However, many are also sun facial treatment essence, then Neutrogena
worshipers who prefer a tan. water boost hydrogel, then Aveeno SPF 55
My own paternal family members enjoyed with vitamin C powder boosted in. At night,
summering at Cape Cod and sunbathing daily. remove makeup/cleanse with Olay cleansing
Because of the lessons ingrained in me by my wipes and Neutrogena rapid wrinkle repair
Cuban grandmother, I noticed the effects of the with retinol (can’t do retin A since I’m preg-
sun on their skin and always embraced sun- nant—normally would be prescription retin
screen during visits. A). Facials twice a year.”
Many less-affluent white women do not adopt
skin care regimens until they see their own skin —Ashley, Caucasian woman, 30
begin to age like the other women in their fam-
ily. The magic age when women begin to notice 4. Generation Variations
these crow’s feet eye wrinkles, large pores, neck Age plays an important role in skin care
and chest wrinkles, sunspots, etc., is about 30 regimens for two reasons. First, women who
years old. were not taught specific skin care maintenance
Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DE3

often wait until problems arise before they just want to age a little more gracefully than
begin trying to correct the issues. the other group.”
For example, many of my dark-skinned Latina
friends loved tanning and never took measures —Betsy, Caucasian woman, 26
to protect their skin. Today, many complain of
dark spots or a few wrinkles, and they’re just “I use the CA product line ... cleanser,
now working to correct those issues. toner, vitamin C serum and rebalance mois-
turizer. I also drink warm water with lemon
“As a brown person, I’m all about trying and organic apple cider vinegar.”
to figure out what to do about the sagging, —Dee, African-American woman, 25
not the wrinkles. Wrinkles aren’t bugging me
too much yet but the English bulldog jowls As North America becomes increasingly
are a pain in my ass. Also, the dark spots diverse and evolving technology continues
bug me. I’m not very disciplined about using to facilitate the distribution of information
a separate product for them but when I see from cultures around the world, North Ameri-
‘brightening’ claims or other such code words can beauty routines will become even more
for helping me with the freckles and brown individualized.
spots, I get very interested.”
—Rebecca, Puerto Rican woman, 50

A Blended Future
With factors such as skin tone and cultural
5. Cultural Crossover heritage becoming intertwined, brands must
Because of the immense access to informa- actively strive to stay ahead of trends, with a
tion via technology, many women, especially wide range of products and colors to match any
millennials and gen Xers, are no longer relying skin tone or skin care need.
solely on their cultural heritage and family to From fair-skinned Latinas with cultural “train-
teach them about skin care. ing,” to African-American women seeking their
For example, we’re seeing more affluent white first skin care regimen, and Caucasian women
women adopting skin care secrets from other looking for a natural way to combat inherent
cultures, such as Korean multi-step regimens. neck wrinkles, brands that embrace a blended,
Also, younger generations of cultures originally multicultural view of beauty will be poised
having little to no skin care regimens, such for success with the diverse women of North
as African-American women, have begun to America.
change their culture’s traditions by adopting
new routines.
Overall, technology has had a hand in creating
vast cultural shifts that embrace natural beauty
over standard beauty ideals. All-natural prod-
ucts and home remedies are gaining popularity C&T Daily Newsletter
to promote a total wellness lifestyle. Get the latest from Cosmetics & Toiletries
delivered straight to your inbox every day!
“So I think there’s a ton of interest in
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
beauty/skin care in general among the millen-
nial generation but it’s sort of split between
two segments. There’s the Kardashian
group with their perfectly spackled pores,
overdrawn lips and flawless eyebrows; and
C&T Webcasts
then there’s another group that still cares
Find current and upcoming webcasts at
very much about beauty but definitely takes www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
the less-is-more approach. I fall mostly into
the latter group—but make no mistake, that
group still wants to look amazing—they may

EXPANDED Foundation and Color Formulary
Color Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Olea Europaea (Olive)
FIGHT AND COVER WAND Leaf Extract (and) Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract
(Eurol WHT, The Hallstar Company) 0.50
(The Hallstar Company) Fragrance (parfum) qs
This formula is designed to cover skin imperfections and keep skin healthy by fight- Procedure: Prepare A, using a suitable dispersion unit (e.g., Silverson, Ultra Turrax) to
ing against photo-induced oxidative stress. Oléos Propolis Oléoactif TL helps to dissolve the ingredients. Heat to 75–80°C. Prepare B in a separate vessel. Heat to
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Biochemica Lime Butter provides natural oil derived from lime—an effective free radi- to A and homogenize. Cool to 40°C using a water bath while stirring. Add D and
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in France, is a recently acquired part of Hallstar. skin, silky after-feel; viscosity = 55,000–65,000 mPa•s (10 rpm, Brk, RVDV-E, Sp.
A. Octyldodecanol 15.00% w/w T-D, after 24 hr at RT; pH = 5.0–7.0.
Octyldodecanol (and) Iron Oxides (and) CI 77492
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C. Hydrogenated Olive Oil (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil This multifunctional, multitasking makeup ties into the popular contouring trend.
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Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Helianthus A. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (C86-3222 SynMICA Super,
Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Iris Florentina Root Sun Chemical Corp.) 52.60% w/w
Extract (and) Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax (Oléos Iris Trihydroxystearin 20.00
Oléosense, The Hallstar Company) 0.50 Polymethacrylate 5.00
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Propolis Nylon-12 (Tegolon 12-10, Evonik Industries AG) 2.00
Extract (Oléos Propolis Oléoactif TL, The Hallstar Company) 0.50 Propylparaben 0.20
Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 900, The Hallstar Company) 6.00 Methylparaben 0.10
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (and) B. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and)
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Citrus Aurantifolia CI 77491 (C84-4001 SunSHINE Soft Golden,
(Lime) Peel Oil (Biochemica Lime Butter, Sun Chemical Corp.) 9.00
The Hallstar Company) 5.00 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) CI 77491 (C84-6080
Ozokerite 5.00 SunSHINE Soft Bronze, Sun Chemical Corp.) 4.50
Microcrystalline Wax 3.00 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) CI 77491 (C84-6070
Talc 7.00 SunSHINE Soft Russet, Sun Chemical Corp.) 3.60
Silica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) CI 77891 (and) Iron Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) CI 77491 (C84-6080
Oxides (and) CI 77491 (RonaFlair Flawless, EMD SunSHINE Soft Copper, Sun Chemical Corp.) 3.00
Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 3.00 100.00
Polybutene 8.00
BHT 0.10 Procedure: Dry blend A until homogeneous and ensure preservative is evenly distrib-
100.00 uted. Combine B and mix with A until homogeneous.
Procedure: Mix A until the pigments are completely dispersed. Add B and mix. Add
C. Heat to 95–100°C. Pour into proper packaging; properties: appearance =
creamy brown compact. Color
SATIN SHIMMER EYESHADOW
(Croda)
Color
SECOND SKIN BB CREAM Give customers’ lids their Oscar-worthy moment with this luxurious eyeshadow.
Crodamol STS adds shine and binding properties. Sensasil PCA provides a silky,
(The Hallstar Company) velvety feel while Arlamol LST creates an elegant emollience and binds the formulation.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w Vegesome Moist 24 moisturizes and improves skin hydration.
Glycerin 3.00 A. Talc 11.11% w/w
Betaine 1.00 Barium Sulfate 11.50
Panthenol 0.50 Zinc Stearate 9.70
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.30 Silica 2.30
Xanthan Gum 0.20 B. CI 77492 (ACT-96-Y-77492, Miyoshi America, Inc.) 1.70
B. Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000, CI 77491 (ACT-96-R-77491, Miyoshi America, Inc.) 0.04
The Hallstar Company) 6.00 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Iron Oxides (Colorona
Lauryl Olivate (Sensolene Care DD, The Hallstar Company) 2.00 SynCranberry, TCR Industries Inc.) 3.10
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.00 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) CI 77491 (and) CI 77492
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexylbenzoate 3.00 (and) CI 77499 (Colorona Syn Cranberry Pink, EMD
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.00 Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 4.25
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00 Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (Flamenco Superpearl 120C,
Candelilla Wax 1.00 BASF Corporation) 23.00
BHT 0.10 Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (Timica Extra Bright 1500,
C. Pigments 8.00 BASF Corporation) 17.00
Sodium Polyacrylate 0.20 C. PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (Crodamol STS, Croda) 6.00
D. Preservatives qs PPG-3 Isostearyl Methyl Ether (Arlamol LST, Croda) 5.00
Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Water (aqua) PCA Dimethicone (Sensasil PCA, Croda) 3.80
(Eurol BT, The Hallstar Company) 0.50 Phenoxyethanol (Phenoxetol, Clariant Int. Ltd.) 0.50
Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DE5

Glycerin (and) Lycopodium Clavatum Extract (and) B. Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (Flamenco Super Red 430Z,
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract (Vegesome Moist 24, BASF Corporation) 2.0
Sederma) 1.00 Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (Flamenco Super Orange 330Z,
100.00 BASF Corporation) 2.0
Procedure: Add A to a micropulverizer jar/mason jar. Micropulverize for 1-2 min. Add Polymethyl Methacrylate 5.0
B to the batch and micropulverize for an additional 1-2 min. Sprinkle C into batch 100.00
individually and micropulverize for an additional 1-3 min, scraping any unmixed Procedure: Combine A in a blender until uniform. Add B to A and mix well until uniform.
oil/powder off the wall of the jar and continuing to micropulverize for an additional
minute until all powders are properly dispersed and uniform. When uniform, press
on appropriate componentry of choice (aluminum/tin pans) at a maximum pressure Color
of 1,600 psi or 110 bar. MATTIFYING MAKEUP
FOUNDATION
Color (Evonik Industries AG)
CREAM TO POWDER
A. Bis-(Glyceryl/Lauryl) Glyceryl Lauryl Dimethicone (and) Caprylic/
FOUNDATION Capric Triglyceride (Abil EM 120, Evonik Industries AG) 4.50% w/w
(Floratech) Dimethicone 8.80
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Tegosoft CT, Evonik Industries AG) 5.00
This unique, non-volatile, low silicone foundation applies with a creamy texture and Titanium Dioxide (Unipure White LC987 EM, Sensient
finishes with a powder-dry feel. Floramac 10 provides the dry emollient feel and, Cosmetic Technologies) 5.00
unlike cyclopentasiloxane materials, is naturally derived and will not evaporate after CI 77491 0.35
application. Iron Oxides 77499 0.10
A. Ethyl Macadamiate (Floramac 10, Floratech) 29.33% w/w Nylon-10/10 (Tegolon ECO 10-10, Evonik Industries AG) 2.00
Phenyl Trimethicone (SF1550, Momentive Performance B. Cyclopentasiloxane 3.50
Materials Inc.) 1.00 Disteardimonium Hectorite (Bentone 38 V,
Isoeicosane (Permethyl 102A, Presperse, Inc.) qs Elementis Specialties) 1.00
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Propylene Carbonate 0.50
(Dow Corning 9506 Powder, Dow Corning Corp.) 1.50 C. Water (aqua) 62.65
B. Polyethylene (Performalene 400 Polyethylene, New Phase Sodium Chloride 1.00
Technologies Inc.) 3.65 Glycerin 5.00
Candelilla Wax (Candelilla Wax SP 75, Strahl & Pitsch Inc.) 2.36 D. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
Tribehenin (Syncrowax HRC, Croda Europe Ltd.) 0.50 schulke) qs
Microcrystalline Wax 1.60 Fragrance (parfum) qs
C. Titanium Dioxide (Titanium Dioxide, Emerald 100.00
Kalama Chemical) 14.50 Procedure: Prepare B by charging silicone and adding hectorite slowly while stirring
Iron Oxides 1.50 (disperser disc). Mix until uniform and add propylene carbonate. Mix until uniform.
Iron Oxides 0.15 Add B to A. Mix until uniform. Add C to AB slowly while stirring and homogenize.
Iron Oxides 0.45 Note: Titanium dioxide in A should be alkyl silane-treated, as supplied by the
Boron Nitride (Tres BN, Saint-Gobain Advanced Ceramics) 0.50 manufacturer.
Polymethyl Methacrylate (Ganzpearl GM-0600, Presperse, Inc.) 5.50
Silica (Spheron P-1500, Presperse, Inc.) 3.50
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer Color
(and) Magnesium Carbonate (Natrasorb HFB, AkzoNobel, ANTI-AGING PRESSED POWDER
Personal Care ) 5.50
D. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Eusolex 2292, EMD (Grant Industries Inc.)
Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 6.20 This powdered antiaging complex is designed to stimulate cellular turnover and im-
Benzophenone-3 (Eusolex 4360, EMD Chemicals Inc.-RONA prove skin appearance. It includes 24-carat colloidal gold to facilitate the electrolytic
Cosmetic Business Unit) 2.06 transfer between trace minerals and the skin’s natural metallic-based electrolytes.
Preservatives qs
A. Talc 69.1% w/w
Tocopherol (Covi-OX T-50, T-70, BASF SE) 0.10
Mica 10.0
Bisabolol (RTD Alpha-Bisabolol Natural, The Hallstar Company) 0.20
Zinc Stearate 2.0
Procedure: Mix A at 85-90°C with moderate propeller agitation. Mix B at 95°C and stir Iron Oxide Red (Iron Oxide Red, Sun Chemical Corp.) 0.3
until homogeneous. Add B to A and keep the temp of the mixture at 90°C. With Iron Oxide Yellow (Iron Oxide Yellow, Sun Chemical Corp.) 1.0
the aid of a homomixer, add each ingredient of C to AB. Continue to homomix this Iron Oxide Black (Iron Oxide Black, Sensient Cosmetic
combination at 90°C to ensure uniform pigment dispersion. Mix D at 70°C. Cool Technologies) 0.1
ABC down to 70°C and add D with moderate homomixing agitation. Pour final Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone
mixture, while hot in liquid form, into containers and cool to RT. Crosspolymer (proposed) (Granpowder USQ, Grant
Industries Inc.) 5.0
B. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 3.0
Color Isopropyl Isostearate 2.0
SILK POWDER FOUNDATION Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium Sorbate
(and) Water (aqua) (and) Hexylene Glycol (Jeecide CAP-5, Jeen
(Brenntag Specialties Inc., US Headquarters) International Corp.) 1.0
A. Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine (ST1410, Brenntag Specialties Inc., Procedure: Combine A and micropulverize for a total of 4 min. Separately combine B
US Headquarters) 54.0% w/w and mix. Add B to A and micropulverize for up to 4 min in 30-sec intervals. Press
Titanium Dioxide (and) Dimethicone (ST1946, Brenntag into foundation pan using appropriate die press.
Specialties Inc., US Headquarters) 10.0
Iron Oxide Brown 8.0
Silk Powder 5.0
Bismuth Oxychloride (Mearlite LBU, BASF Corporation) 5.0
Hyaluronic Acid (and) Silica (Spherica HA, Ikeda Corp.) 5.0
Squalane 4.0


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September 2017

Extending Antidote for Aging

CT1709_Cover_fcx.indd 1 8/21/17 3:47 PM

Digital Edition Exclusives

DE1 5 Drivers of Multicultural Skin Care

DE5 Expanded Foundation and

8 Industry Insight: Understanding

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017

CT1709_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 2 8/22/17 3:54 PM

Formulating Allured Business Media

Star Polymer Aligns Clarity with Viscosity for

CT1709_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 4 8/21/17 10:45 AM

For more information, visit www.wacker.com/belsil www.wacker.com/socialmedia

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Blowing You Away

6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017

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Youth Activating Milky Way

Dongbaek oil benefits:

ORDER YOUR SAMPLE TODAY AT CLARIANT.COM/BEAUTYFORWARD

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Understanding Aging in Hair

C&T: What can senescence reveal about hair aging?

used medicinal plants in the

8 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017

CT1709_Advisor_Insight_fcx.indd 8 8/21/17 10:55 AM

Photo Credit: Sederma Photo Credit: Givaudan Active Beauty

Bonding Technology COSMOS Approvals

Photo Credit: Grant Industries

Grant Industries presents GranRepair PowerBond

10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017

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NEW RESEARCH: Developed a Cost-effective Broad-spectrum Sunscreen Spray having In-vivo

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• Cannabis-containing products also face

Canada’s ‘High’ Hopes

for Regulatory Reform

Robert Ross-Fichtner and

T he year 2018 could be a big one for regulatory

Reproduction in English or any other language of

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Change in Canada Regulatory Smokescreen

Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13

CT1709_Regulatory_Fichtner_fcx.indd 13 8/21/17 11:15 AM

14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017

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the courts, this costs billions of dollars and 4. businessnews.com.au/article/MGC-Pharma-signs-new-

Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 15

CT1709_Regulatory_Fichtner_fcx.indd 15 8/21/17 11:15 AM

• This first of two columns introduces physical

Breaking Through, Part I

Mike Rule and

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Our range includes:

Finsolv®, a selection of benzoate esters that beautifully deliver excellent

Americas Europe, Middle East and Africa

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Physical delivery works,

18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 132, No. 8 | September 2017

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Conclusion, Part I 101–104 (2001)

Table 1. Current Transdermal Drugs and Their Penetration Mechanisms