Plus-Size Pattern Fitting Is All About Making Vertical

Adjustments
By Beth Galvin
March 03, 2020 08:50 AM
When fitting a sewing pattern, you typically check standard measurements such as
the bust, waist and hip — all measurements of circumference. But there's another
that's critical to getting the perfect fit: vertical dimension. This measurement isn't
usually marked on most patterns, but you should measure and adjust your
patterns for it (in both dimensions, actually) to get the fit you need — especially if
you're plus-size or full-busted.

The two dress forms pictured above show the potential need for vertical
adjustment on sewing patterns. The light pink form shows how bust depth, which is
the distance from the top of the shoulder to the bust apex, is considerably longer
with a plus-size or full-busted figure. The horizontal line marks the bust apex on
both dress forms, and that's the point on your pattern where you want the
maximum fullness to accommodate the curves.

Imagine a pattern with bust darts that finish near that apex — clearly, they need to
be closer for the less full bust and further away for the more full bust. Which means
the full-busted form needs more length in the front of the garment to reach the
waist. Here's how to get that extra length.
 Good to Know
Often, wrap-style dresses or tops don’t include a side dart, so the below
tutorial is a way to adjust the pattern front to create extra length when
needed.

How to Make a Vertical Adjustment

Level: Intermediate

What You Need

Pattern pieces
Measuring tape
Marker or pen
Scissors or a rotary cutter
Ribbon or string
Paper
Muslin fabric
 Pins

Instructions
1. Evaluate the Pattern
Above is a front bodice pattern piece of a mock wrap front with shoulder darts. The
bust apex is indicated on the pattern as the small circle with the +. The center front
is also marked, and that should be transferred to your pattern so the wrap overlaps
properly. There is no side bust dart, but that will be added to create shape and
allow for the longer front measurement from shoulder to waist.

2. Make a Muslin
The test muslin of the pattern shows the circumference seems to fit around the
body and be where you want it. But the issue with the bodice's length is clear: the
yellow dots represent the bust apex on the pattern, and they are about 2" higher
than the actual apex of the form shown by the upper ribbon.

The bodice is also pulling upward under the bust, so the garment waist will not be
in the right place. To fix this, measure the distance between the pattern mark of the
apex and the actual apex. This will be the distance the pattern will be lengthened
over the bust.

Then, measure the distance between the bottom of the bodice and the waist. If
that's more than the difference you'll be adding at the bust, you may want to add a
little more at the bottom edge as well, or deepen your seam allowance to permit
some adjustment when you sew the top and bottom together.

3. Split the Pattern Piece LIBRARY

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Draw a horizontal line across the pattern, either through the apex or just under as
shown. Make sure that line is perpendicular to the grainline. Add a few vertical lines
across this horizontal line — these will be used to connect the pattern piece after
you split it.

Cut the pattern piece in half using this line.

4. Lengthen the Pattern Piece

Insert a strip of paper between the split pattern pieces. In the example above, we
added 2" across the bodice front. Line up the vertical lines to keep everything even,
including the grainline.
5. Adjust the Front Cutting Line
By adding the 2" in the middle of the bodice, the long front edge will become a bit
jagged. Smooth this edge by redrawing the cutting line, splitting the difference
above and below the inserted piece. Trim off the excess.

6. Add a Dart
With the added length, the front bodice is now 2" longer than the back bodice piece
at the side seam. To take up that difference, add a side bust dart . This kind of dart
is really helpful to get a good fit on a full bust, so don’t be afraid to add one where
none exists.

The dart point should be about 1½" to 2" away from the bust apex. To make it more
pleasing to the eye, slant your dart upward instead of making it completely
horizontal.

Pro Tip
Pin your paper pieces together and test on your body. You can pinch out
the extra to see just where the side dart should go.
Make sure the front and back bodice seams are trued up, then you are ready to try
a second muslin.

7. Test the Adjustments

Before you begin sewing, test your adjustments on a new muslin to see if they
work. The one pictured above has the the bodice length adjustment and a side
seam bust dart added. The bottom of the bodice hits at the waist and retains the
ease and blousing of the pattern design. The new dart creates fullness where it's
needed over the bust, and allows the fabric to drape instead of pulling the waist
seam upward.

With these adjustments, the bodice drapes nicely and will be much more
comfortable than it would have been without the front length adjustment. Then
you know the bodice pattern piece is ready to use with your fashion fabric!

Learn More Now

Get tips and tutorials for finding the perfect fit in any pattern with our free guide,
Fitting Fundamentals for Sewers.
GET THE GUIDE
 CLOTHING FITTING PATTERNMAKING PLUS-SIZE

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