VDiff TheTradClimbersGuideToProblemSolving E Book June2019

The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving
E-Book Edition
© VDiff 2019. All rights reserved. This publication is the property of VDiff.
Writer and illustrator: Neil Chelton
Photographers:
- Alex Ratson
- James Rushforth
- Andy Kirkpatrick
- Maria Parkes
Front Cover: Lynne Hempton on Via Myriam, Cinque Torri, Dolomites, Italy.
Photographer: James Rushforth
Warning: Climbing is Dangerous

This book is intended for climbers who are competent at basic trad climbing skills
such as:
- Placing trad gear
- Building trad anchors
- Abseiling
- Multi-pitch climbing
This book is designed to be supplemented with practical instruction from qualified

professionals. Do not rely on it as your primary source of rock climbing
information. If you are unsure about any of the information given in this book, it is
strongly recommended that you seek qualified instruction. Failure to do this may
result in serious injury or death. The writers and employees of VDiff disclaim all
responsibility and liability for any injuries or losses incurred by any person
participating in the activities described in this book.
Terminology
To simplify and standardize the terminology in this book, the following terms will
be referred to as:
In this book Other names

GriGri Assisted-braking belay device
Prusik Friction hitch
Abseil Rappel
ATC Tube-style belay device
The Trad Climber’s Guide To
Problem Solving
Self-Rescue Techniques
The Aim of This Book
There are thousands of poor practise the techniques described.
situations you could encounter when Challenge each other to improvise
trad climbing, most of which do not different solutions for each problem.
have a textbook solution.
The more times you solve similar
At the crag or in the mountains, there problems with similar variables, the
are an endless amount of ever- easier they are to solve again. Over
changing variables. Problems may be time, these common problems will be
solved much differently depending on solved subconsciously.
what gear you have available, how
windy it is, how close you are to the When you combine the theories in
ground or how loose the rock is. This this book with real-life practise, your
book introduces the basics of problem decisions will, hopefully, start to get
solving and encourages you to better and become more
develop the flexibility to craft a subconscious. That is the aim of this
solution for each unique situation. book.
However, this book alone is of limited See you out there,

use. An essential part of the learning
process is to go to the crag with your Neil Chelton
climbing partner and physically VDiff Founder
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VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving 4

Contents
6 Accident Prevention
12 Advanced Anchor
Building
32 Abseiling
56 Lead Skills
82 Self-Rescue
124 Essential Knots

Accident Prevention
8 The First Bad Decision
10 Psychology
11 How To Practise
Climb: The South African Route, Torres del Paine, Patagonia. Photographer: Neil Chelton.
The First Bad Decision
The vast majority of climbing My chosen route was in direct

accidents are preventable. They sunlight all day, but I decided to climb
typically happen due to a series of it anyway (third bad decision).
bad choices. A single bad decision is
often not a problem – if you realize it Despite knowing how much water I
straight away and can do something should bring, I decided to save weight
about it. The problem begins when and bring less (fourth bad decision),
you allow your bad decision to lead thinking that I would somehow just be
onto another, and another. When able to climb faster.
combined, these decisions can result
in disaster. I eventually ran out of water, of
course, still with many pitches above.
In the summer of 2010, I decided to The combined effect of my four bad
rope solo a long multi-pitch in decisions had left me exhausted,
Yosemite, California. I chose to use dehydrated and completely uncertain
two ropes; a lead rope to belay myself that I’d actually be able to retreat to
with and a haul rope to pull up a the ground by myself. My mouth was
haulbag containing my food, water so dry it felt like I was constantly
and other equipment. I’d practised inhaling boiling sand. This caused me
this self-belaying system before, but I to make my fifth bad decision – to
didn’t have time to become rush upwards as fast as I could,
competent at it before the climb (first placing minimal gear and taking
bad decision). massive risks.
I knew the theories of self-rescue, but And that’s when it all went wrong.
I hadn’t actually practised the
techniques in real life (second bad My haulbag was stuck, 30 meters
decision). below. I had to abseil down to
dislodge it. I would just be able to
In Yosemite, the temperature was a reach by abseiling on the other side
blistering 100°F and forecast to stay of my 60 meter haul rope. Due to
that way for the duration of my climb. some combination of fear, delusion
ssssssssss aaaaaaaa
VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving > Accident Prevention 8
and panic caused by my five previous Luck was on my side. Instead of
bad decisions, I neglected to use my hitting ledges and spiky blocks, I fell
other rope as a back-up. The haulbag in between them. The haulbag
acted as a counter-weight as I jammed into the belay and I survived
descended. But only because it was the 30 meter fall with just a few
stuck, not because of its weight (it scrapes and a bruised ego.
was almost empty).
I continued up, teetering on the brink
I pulled the haulbag free, then realized of a peculiar kind of madness. A few
my sixth bad decision the moment it pitches higher, I found an ancient
slid away from my fingertips. gallon of water on a small ledge. I sat
there and drank the whole thing. Life
The fall started slow. I tried to keep became good again and I made it to
pace by running down the rock but I the summit.
immediately tripped over and forward-
rolled down the wall in a tangle of It’s a good skill to be able to catch
slings, screams and wide-eyed terror. yourself making that first bad decision.
Think about how this decision
The haulbag picked up speed narrows your choices further on in the
exponentially and was soon rocketing climb and the problems it may create.
up towards the belay, while I tumbled If you can master that, you are well
out of control. It felt like I was falling on your way to having a safe climbing
forever. career.
Psychology
Exhaustion Confidence Vs Competence
Climbers often make decisions Most accidents involving leader falls
differently when tired, hungry, cold or happen because the leader did not
in a rush for whatever reason. protect the route as well as they
Shortcuts are made. Safety is could. Protection was available, but
compromised. Accidents become the leader either placed gear poorly
more likely to happen. or chose not to place any when they
had the option.
In some situations (such as finishing
that final pitch when a huge storm is There are three types of climber who
just starting), it can be safer to cut do not protect routes well:
corners and speed things up. - Beginners (because they haven’t
However, in most situations the safer yet learnt how to place gear
option takes longer. It is important to properly)
understand why you are making a - Competent climbers on easy
potentially dangerous decision. Have routes (because the chance of
you ever abseiled off a poor anchor falling is near zero)
because you were cold or tired and - Over confident climbers (because
wanted to get down faster? Having they are trying to appear competent
the ability to make good decisions to their belayer or impress whoever
when exhausted is a great skill to is watching)
have.
Climbers often mistake confidence for
competence, or to put it more simply
Risk – how good you think you are with
Risks are part of the climbing game. how good you actually are.
Falling is an obvious risk, but others
are more subtle. For example, if you Being overconfident is fine in a safe
don’t know how to escape the belay environment, such as the indoor gym.
with your chosen setup (see page 85), Confidence will cause you to try hard
you risk being unable to help your moves and improve your physical
partner in an emergency. The more technique. However, it will not cause
problems you can solve, the more good gear placements to appear
‘risks’ you can take. This doesn’t when you need them, or that loose
mean you can climb more dangerous flake to hold your weight when you
routes. It means you can climb bigger stand on it.
routes in more remote places while
being competent enough to solve any Being humble about your ability and
problems that you may encounter. immortality will help you make better
decisions and prevent problems in the
Before making a decision, ask first place.
yourself this: If you take the risk and it
doesn’t go in your favour, can you
solve the problem that it creates?
Heroes
It is often seen as more heroic to encourages everyday climbers to
climb a route in a more dangerous adopt poor safety standards.
style, with the ultimate heroes being
those who can free-solo everything. It’s important to understand why you
The climbing media only reinforces are choosing a particular style of
this message. Photos of helmet-less ascent. Are you doing something
climbers and videos of Alex Honnold dangerous because you are
free-soloing El Cap may be competent? Or are you just trying to
impressive to watch, but it be a hero?
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How To Practise
It is essential to practise the outside at the crag. Many skills can be
techniques described in this book practised with the same top rope. For
before you actually use them in real example, with a single rope fixed to
life situations. You should aim to an anchor, you can practise the Z-
reach a level of competence where abseil, tandem abseiling, the
you can set up any system without carabiner brake, abseiling past a knot
needing to refer back to this book. and prusiking.
Some of the skills can be practised at However you choose to practise,

ground level (e.g: tying knots or always go with a partner and always
building anchors), whereas others make sure to back up any system
require a top rope to be set up. This which you are not familiar with.
could be done inside at the gym or
oooooooo
Partner Fixed rope

belays to practise
you on a techniques
separate
top rope
Advanced Anchor Building
14 Equalization Considerations
16 Self-Equalizing Anchors
26 Building Anchors with the Rope
29 Building Anchors with Minimal Gear
Climb: Stately Pleasure Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, California. Photographer: Maria Parkes.
Equalization Considerations
In Trad Climbing Basics, we setups. The main problem with the

introduced various methods of overhand knot is that it does not
creating belay master points by tying spread the load equally between the
an overhand knot in a sling or pieces, especially if one strand is
cordelette. short, or if the loading direction
changes.
These methods are safe, simple and
perfect for most situations that a This uneven distribution of force could
beginner trad climber would find mean that all of the force is applied to
themselves in. However, they have the poorest piece of the anchor.
drawbacks in more complicated belay
dddddddddd
Loading Direction
When loaded directly downwards, moves to one side and then falls),
each piece of this anchor will take 100% of the force will go onto one
33.3% of the load. If the loading piece. This could cause that piece to
direction changes (e.g; the climber fail.
mmmmmmmmm
33.3% 33.3% 33.3% 0% 0% 100%
VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving > Anchor Building 14
Strand Length ~20% ~30%
If one strand of the cordelette is much
shorter than the others, more force
will be applied to the short strand ~50%
when weighted. This is because a
short strand reaches maximum
stretch before a longer strand.
These concepts are easier to

understand if you imagine how elastic
bands would stretch in these
situations.
The same is true for dynamic rope.

More force is applied to the top bolt in
this case.
~70%
~30%
Number of Strands
A double strand of cord (or rope) In this anchor, the strand of cord on
stretches less than a single strand the center piece has been doubled up
when weighted. to keep the master point higher.
Because of this, more force will be
More force is applied to the right applied to the center piece when
piece in the example below. weighted.
~20% ~30% ~50% ~25% ~50% ~25%
Similarly, more force is applied to the
upper two pieces in this anchor.
~40%
~40%
~20%
Getting perfect equalization is not so However, in more complicated belay

important for situations when each setups, or for equalizing marginal
piece of the belay is bomber. In most lead protection, a self-equalizing
cases, the variations described on the method could be much safer.
previous pages are fine.
Self-Equalizing Anchors
Advantages Disadvantages
The main advantage of using a self- The main disadvantage of using self-
equalizing anchor is that it continues equalizing knots at the anchor is that
to distribute the load equally between if one piece fails, the whole belay
the anchor pieces as the loading shifts. This shift is barely noticeable
direction changes. on a well set up anchor. However, with
some setups the sudden jolt could
This maintains a lower force on each cause you to lose control of your
piece, therefore decreasing the belay device.
likelihood of anchor point failure.
Be careful where you use self-
This is especially useful when equalizing anchors and make sure to
equalizing marginal pieces of lead tie appropriate extension-limiting
protection. knots to reduce the possible sudden
shift in belay position.
Example
If two micro nuts are equalized with slightly different loading direction (you
an overhand knot as shown, it is likely may not fall directly downwards). If the
that one of them would take most of fall generates 4kN of force, it will
the force of a leader fall. cause the 3kN piece on the right to
fail. This will put 100% of the force on
This could be due to a slightly off- the remaining piece, which will most
centre adjustment of the knot, or a likely cause that to fail too.
gggggggg
~10% ~90%
4kN
If the same two micro nuts were ~50% ~50%

equalized with a sliding-X, the knot
would self-equalize during the fall and
distribute 50% of the force (2kN) onto
each nut. The nuts would then be
much more likely to hold the fall.
4kN
The Sliding-X
The sliding-X is useful for:
- Equalizing two pieces of trad gear - Equalizing a two-bolt anchor for top
as part of an anchor roping
- Equalizing two pieces of lead
protection
Step 1 Step 3
Clip a sling through two pieces of Position the central point where you
gear. Make sure the sewn section of want it. Unclip the sling from one
the sling is near the top of one of the piece and tie an overhand knot near
pieces so it doesn’t interfere with the to the central point. This is known as
sliding-X knot. an extension-limiting knot. The closer
to the central point you tie them, the
Step 2 less the anchor will extend if one
Twist the sling 180 degrees and then piece fails.
attach a carabiner to it. The central
point will now be equalized even Step 4
when the pull comes from different Clip the sling back into the piece.
directions.
Step 5
Repeat steps 3 and 4 with the other If one piece fails, the central point will
side. You can now adjust the shift as shown below.
overhand knots so they are as far
down as possible while still allowing
the central point to move freely where
it needs to.
Warnings
1) It’s essential that you twist the sling sliding-X when it is weighted. If you
in step 2. If you don’t, the central must do so, make sure you have
point can become completely clipped the carabiner through the
detached from the anchor if one piece sling in exactly the same way as the
fails. original carabiner. A much better
alternative is to use the quad anchor
2) It can be difficult to clip another (see page 22).
carabiner into the main point of a
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Sliding-X Variations
There are many ways of incorporating Step 1
the sliding-X into an anchor. However Clovehitch a 120cm sling to the lower
you do it, make sure that if any piece right piece.
failed, the resulting anchor shift:
- Is minimal
- Causes the remaining pieces to re-
equalize
- Will not cause you to lose control of
the belay
The following arrangement uses one

120cm sling to equalize three pieces.
Step 2 Step 3
Clip the sling through the upper right Add two extension-limiting knots.
piece.
Step 4 Step 5
Clip the sling into the left piece. Put a 180 degree twist in one of the
master point strands and clip a
Adjust the knots so they limit carabiner through both loops as
extension while allowing for some shown.
directional movement.
You could also equalize four pieces If your belay consists of one bomber
by clovehitching another piece on the piece (the bolt) and four mediocre
left. pieces (the micro nuts), you could use
an arrangement like the one below.
You may need to adjust the
extension-limiting knots after adding This method equalizes the pieces so
the fourth piece. the bolt takes 50% of the load and the
four micro nuts take approximately
12.5% each.
The Quad Anchor
The quad anchor self-adjusts to keep
an equal force on each anchor point
in a similar way to the sliding-X.
Advantages
* Distributes the load equally between
the anchor pieces. This puts less
force on each piece, therefore
decreasing the likelihood of anchor
point failure.
* Provides two independent

attachment points for the belayer and
climber. This helps to prevent
carabiners from jamming up at the
same master point.
Disadvantages
* The two attachment points adjust * The quad will extend slightly should
laterally, meaning that the anchor either anchor point fail. This can
remains equalized even when shock-load the remaining piece(s).
different directions of pull are applied
at the same time. This is useful during * Since the quad needs to be doubled
multi-pitch belay changeovers, or if up, it is difficult to equalize anchors
the route traverses in or out from the where the placements are far apart.
belay.
* On multi-pitch routes where each Best Situation To Use The Quad

bolted anchor is approximately the Anchor
same, you can speed up your anchor To equalize two bomber anchor
building by keeping the quad tied. points, such as two bolts.
How To Tie the Quad Anchor

You Will Need:
* 2, 3 or 4 solid anchor points
* A cordelette
* 3-4 screwgate carabiners
Step 1
Double over a cordelette so there are
four strands of cord. Make sure the
double fisherman’s bend of the
cordelette is near one end.
Step 2
Tie an extension-limiting knot on one
side of the cordelette. This can be
either an overhand knot or a figure-8
(The figure-8 is easier to untie after
loading. The overhand uses slightly
less cord).
Step 3
Tie another extension-limiting knot on
the other side and clip both ends of
the cordelette to the anchor points
with screwgate carabiners.
Make sure the knots are fairly even

when the anchor is weighted in the
direction of loading. The four-strand
‘master point’ should normally be
around 30cm long.
If the strength of your anchor points

are difficult to assess (e.g: older bolts),
you should move the overhand knots
closer together. However, this also
reduces the lateral range over which
the quad self-equalizes.
~30cm
Step 4
Separate the four strands of the
master point into two doubled
strands. It doesn’t matter which two
you separate.
Step 5
Attach yourself to two of the master
point strands (using a clovehitch or
figure-8 on a screwgate carabiner).
If belaying in guide mode, attach your

belay device to the other two master
point strands.
Warning!
It is important to only clip
into two of the master
point strands.
If you clip into all four, you

could become completely
detached from the
anchor if one point fails.
The Quad Anchor – Equalizing 3 or 4 Anchor Points

To equalize three anchor points,
simply split one of the double-loops
and attach one loop into each piece.
You will need to re-tie the extension-

limiting knots to equalize these pieces
since they will probably be at varying
heights.
Do the same with the other side to

equalize four points.
Sometimes it can be difficult to
equalize three or four points correctly,
as this uses up a lot of cordelette.
In this case, consider equalizing the

furthest away pieces with a sling to
create two anchor points. Then attach
your quad to those.
The Quad Anchor – Setting Up a Top Rope

You can use the quad anchor to set other, but share the same anchor. The
up a top rope. This is useful if you quad will self-equalize for both routes
want to top rope two different routes without needing any adjustment.
which are immediately next to each
ttttttttt
Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Clip a screwgate Clip another screwgate Clip the rope through
carabiner into two of into the other two the screwgates and
the master point master point strands. fasten them. It is
strands. important not to clip a
carabiner through all
four strands (as
described earlier).
Building Anchors with the Rope
You can build an equalized anchor shown below, along with the more
without using slings or a cordelette – advanced equalizing figure-8. These
great if you’ve used them all during methods use up quite a lot of rope, so
the pitch. Many variations are you might not have enough on those
possible. Two simple methods are long pitches.
sssssss
Rope Anchors – Simple Methods

Advantages - Very difficult or impossible to escape
- Can equalize pieces which are very the belay in an emergency situation.
far apart. - Not great for multi-pitch belays if the
same person is leading every pitch.
Disadvantages To attach to the anchor, the belayer
- Often uses a lot of rope. will have to clip each piece in the
- Must belay directly from harness. same way as the leader. This is time
- Difficult to get perfect equalization. consuming and can be a bit
awkward.
Tying an alpine butterfly knot as still has the same disadvantages as

shown below will use less rope, but the example above.
tttttttttttttt
Rope Anchors – The Equalizing Figure-8
The ‘equalizing figure-8’ is a rarely
used knot which could be useful in
some belay setups.
Advantages
- Creates a master point in the rope
so you can belay directly from the
anchor in guide mode.
- Much easier to escape the belay
than the previous two methods.
Disadvantages
- Difficult to equalize anchor points
which are very far apart.
- Difficult to adjust belay position once
set up.
- The equalizing figure-8 is not
redundant. If one piece fails, the
whole anchor shifts down. Only use - In the unlikely event that one rope
this method with bomber gear, such loop is cut, the whole anchor could
as bolts. fail.
Step 1 Step 2
Tie a figure-8 with a large loop. Pass the loop back through the figure-
8 as shown.
Step 3
This creates three new loops. Clip Alternatively, collapse one loop for
each loop into an anchor piece and clipping into two pieces.
adjust them as necessary.
Step 4
To create a master point, tie a figure-8
loop in the rope just below the
equalizing figure-8.
You can belay in guide mode directly

from this.
Building Anchors with Minimal Gear
The following methods are great to equipment you have and where the
know in case you reach the top of a gear placements are. A few examples
pitch without a cordelette, only a are given below.
meter of rope to spare and not quite
enough slings to create a self- It’s hard to get any of these anchors
equalizing anchor. equalized perfectly, but if you’re short
on slings and rope, these are
Endless variations and combinations probably your best options.
are possible depending on the
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Example 1 Example 2
A 120cm sling equalizes the two A 120cm sling can join three pieces, if
pieces on the left. two of them are in line with each
other.
An overhand knot is tied in the 60cm
sling on the right to equalize it with Simply tie an overhand knot in the
the others. sling above the lower piece.
Example 3 Example 4
The upper cam is clipped through the The upper two pieces are equalized
sling of the lower cam. This isn’t ideal, with a 120cm sling. The overhand
but it’s better than just having one knot is adjusted so the lower piece
cam. Often you can slide cams up or can contribute to the anchor.
down a placement to fine tune their
position.
Top Tip – Minor Adjustments

You can wrap a sling two or more
times through a carabiner to shorten it
slightly. Keep the wraps close
together and away from the gate if
possible.
If you need to shorten a sling more,

it’s better to tie an overhand knot as
shown in Example 1.
Advanced Anchor Building – Summary
There isn’t a ‘best’ method of limitations of a wide range of anchor

equalizing anchors, since every trad systems gives you more options. Use
anchor situation is different. your knowledge to select the best
Understanding the advantages and method for each unique situation.
ttttttt
Abseiling
34 Increasing Abseil Friction
37 Abseiling without a Device
39 Abseiling with Damaged Ropes
41 Abseiling Past a Knot
45 Pendulum Abseils
47 Stuck Abseil Ropes
53 Descending from Bad Anchors and Loose Rock
Abseiling off Serratus Mountain, Tantalus Range, British Columbia, Canada. Photographer: Alex Ratson
Increasing Abseil Friction
Whether you're abseiling down a following techniques will help you

skinny rope at the sport crag, or increase friction when abseiling, and
retreating from a multi-pitch with rain- get down safely without rope-burnt
slicked ropes and a heavy pack, the palms.
jjjjjjjjjjjj
Increasing Friction – Simple Methods

Method 1 – Reverse
Many belay devices are asymmetrical,
offering more friction if reversed.
Try it out both ways to see which

provides the most friction for your
device.
Method 2 – Double Up
Attach your belay device to your belay
loop with two screwgate carabiners.
This causes the rope to rub against a
greater surface area, which creates
more friction. Large carabiners work
best.
VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving > Abseiling 34
Method 3 – Add a Prusik
We recommend always using a prusik
(friction hitch) when abseiling. A prusik
won't provide consistent extra friction
during the abseil, but it will auto-lock if
set up correctly. This means you can
'rest' mid-abseil, providing added
security on tricky descents.
You can use a prusik in conjunction

with any of the other methods
described in this section to further
increase friction when abseiling.
Method 4 – Extend
Feed a 120cm sling through the hard
points of your harness, tie an
overhand knot in it and then clip both
ends of the sling to your belay device.
This puts your belay device further

away from your body, making it a little
easier to control.
This also enables you to attach your

prusik to your belay loop, which is
safer than attaching it to a leg loop.
Alternatively, you can girth hitch a

60cm sling through the hard points of
your harness (or belay loop).
It's better to use thicker (and more

durable) nylon slings than thin
Spectra/Dyneema for extending your
belay device.
Increasing Friction – The Z-Abseil
The Z-abseil is quick to set up and can abseil rain-soaked skinny ropes
provides much more friction than the confidently.
previous methods, meaning that you
yyyyyyyy
Step 1 Step 2
Set up your belay device for abseiling Clip a screwgate to one of your leg
as normal, staying attached to the loops and clip another screwgate
anchor with a back-up sling. around the ropes above your belay
device.
Step 3 Step 4
Run the ropes down from your belay Fasten up the screwgates and make
device through the leg-loop a final check of the system.
screwgate, up through the upper
screwgate and back down to your Then detach your back-up sling from
brake hand. Make sure the ropes are the anchor and enjoy a maximum
running neatly next to each other. friction descent.
The Z-Abseil – Top Tips
* Make sure your screwgates are * Don’t use this method when
fastened tight. Vibrations in the rope abseiling with a GriGri. The top
can cause some types of screwgate carabiner will hold the handle down
to unfasten. Check them during your and prevent it from locking.
descent.
* It's possible to set this system up
* If you don't have enough mid-abseil – useful on the last half of
screwgates, you can use two a long abseil when the weight of the
opposite and opposed snapgates rope below you has decreased. This
instead. will be easier if you pre-attach the two
screwgates before you leave the
* You can use the same method for anchor; one on your leg loop and one
single rope abseils. Simply set up the sliding down the ropes above you.
system in the same way.
Abseiling Without a Belay Device
Dropping your belay device at the top You Will Need:

of a ten-pitch abseil descent isn't * One screwgate
recommended. But if you do, knowing * Four snapgates
how to use the ‘carabiner brake’ will
change your descent from epic to Full size oval or D-shaped carabiners
easy. provide the smoothest descent, but
almost any carabiner can be used.
The munter hitch (see page 137) can Really small or sharp-spined
be used as an alternative, but it tends carabiners should only be used as a
to kink the rope and causes abrasion last resort.
to the sheath.
Step 1
Clip a screwgate to your belay loop
and fasten it.
Then clip two snapgates to the

screwgate, making sure the gates are
facing opposite directions and they
are opposed. Belay
Loop
Push a bight of both Clip another snapgate Clip a second snapgate
ropes through the around the ropes and next to this, with the
snapgate carabiners. also through the loop as gates on the same side,
shown. but facing opposite
ways.
Step 5 Step 6
Pull down on the rope until the Add a prusik and abseil as you would
carabiners align over each other. with an ATC.
Make sure the rope runs over the
spines (not the gates) of the outer Remember that the carabiner brake
carabiners. The carabiner brake is may provide a different level of friction
now complete. than your belay device.
Abseiling with a Damaged Rope
If you climb long enough, you will If a small amount of core is showing
inevitably end up having to abseil with through the sheath, and the core is in
a damaged rope at some point. perfect condition, you can wrap a
piece of finger-tape tightly around this
Unfortunately, getting a core-shot abraded section. This helps to hold
(when the white core is visible) seems the sheath together and prevent the
to be more common on long multi- core from being further exposed. Use
pitch climbs where the terrain is just a small amount of tape so that
blocky and the abseil descent is your abseil device still feeds through
complicated. How you solve this easily.
problem depends on the severity of
the rope damage and where you are It is not safe to lead on a damaged
when it happens. rope like this, whether taped or not –
This technique is only suitable for
If it is more practical to continue up abseiling. It enables you to get down
than descend (e.g; If you are ten safely, but is not a permanent solution.
pitches up a steep face, but only one The rope should be retired afterwards.
pitch away from an easy walk-off
descent), you may choose to continue The following method explains how to
climbing on the longest section of abseil if the rope’s core is damaged.
undamaged rope. You’ll have to do You can abseil on a single ‘good’
shorter pitches, but this may be the strand of rope, and treat the damaged
best option. part as the pull-down cord. You don’t
need to cut your rope.
Step 1
Attach the rope through the anchor as closed loop around the main anchor
shown. A figure-8 is shown here, but point. This way, the system wouldn’t
you could also use other knots (such fail completely if the knot slipped
as the overhand, figure-9, clovehitch through. You would, however, have to
or alpine butterfly). The point is to prusik back up (see page 116) to
have a knot which physically cannot solve the problem.
pull through or get stuck in the main
anchor point. The same setup applies if you are
abseiling on two ropes. Tie them
The important part of this setup is to together and use the damaged rope
clip the rope back to itself with a as the pull-down cord.
screwgate carabiner to make a
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Step 2
Attach your abseil device to the good
strand of rope.
Follow the same safety precautions

as you would when abseiling at any
other time: tie a knot in the bottom
end of the rope, use a prusik and
weight the rope to check the system
before you commit to it.
Step 3
Abseil down the good strand while
keeping hold of the pull-down cord.
It’s a good idea to keep the end of the
pull-down cord clipped to you.
Watch the setup as the first climber

descends. If the knot gets jammed or
slips through, you’ll need to tie a
bigger knot or change the main
anchor point to something smaller
(small maillons/ quick-links are good
for this). Top Tips
* Add slings and cordelettes to the
end of the pull-down cord if you need
Step 4 a little extra distance on your abseils.
Pull your ropes down.
* If both of your ropes are damaged,
It’s possible that the knot and the best option may be to salvage the
carabiner could get stuck. As when longest section of undamaged rope
abseiling in a normal situation, keep as the ‘good’ rope and join the rest
an eye out for cracks and features together as the pull-down cord. You
where this could happen before you won’t be able to abseil as far, but it is
pull your ropes. better than not being able to abseil at
all.
On a multi-pitch descent, remember
that you will have to thread the same * Another option is to fix one end of
rope through each anchor. the rope to the anchor and abseil on a
single strand, passing knots (see next
page) on the way. You will not be able
to retrieve your ropes, so this only
works if your ropes reach to the
ground.
Abseiling Past a Knot
Times when you might need to abseil to make passing the knot easier. For
past a knot: example, if you have a ledge to stand
- When descending a single strand on, you can bypass the knot without
‘fixed’ rope, where a knot has been needing prusiks.
tied to isolate a damaged section
- Passing a knot joining two ropes However, if you are dangling in space
during an emergency retreat with a heavy pack pulling you
backwards, you’ll need to follow all
As always, first try to utilize the terrain the steps described.
Step 1 – Stop
Stop abseiling when your prusik is
about 30-40cm before the knot. Allow
the prusik to take your weight.
If you are abseiling without a prusik

(not recommended), you can wrap the
rope around your leg a few times. Belay
This adds friction but does not lock Loop
your belay device, so make sure to
keep hold of the rope for the next
couple of steps. And use a prusik
next time.
If your belay device jams into the

knot, you’ll need to ascend (see page
116) a short amount.
Leg
Loop
Step 2 – Back Up
Pull up about two meters of rope and
fasten a back up knot (clovehitch or
figure-8 work well).
Attach this to your belay loop with a

screwgate carabiner.
~2m
Step 3 – Add Prusik

Fasten a prusik above your belay
device (classic or autoblock types
work well) and attach it to your belay
loop with a short sling.
Abseil down a short amount to allow

your weight to be taken by this prusik.
~2m
Step 4 – Pass the Knot
Detach the un-weighted lower prusik
from your leg loop but keep it in
position on the rope.
Remove your belay device and

reattach it to the rope immediately
beneath the knot. Lock your belay
device by tying it off with a mule-
overhand (see page 142).
Step 5 – Add Foot Loop

Clip a short sling to the lower prusik.
Stand in this sling to un-weight the
upper prusik.
Stand in
this loop
Step 6 – Remove Prusiks
Remove the upper prusik and sit back
to weight your tied-off belay device.
If you can’t weight your belay device

from this position, you may have to
down-prusik a couple of times until
you can weight it. Alternate between
weighting the upper prusik and
standing in the lower foot loop.
Adding an extra sling to the lower foot
loop makes this easier.
Step 7 – Descend
Reposition the remaining prusik back
to your leg loop (without the foot loop
sling), unfasten your back up knot and
then release your tied-off belay
device.
You can now continue your descent.
Top Tips
* Before you pass the knot, assess if * If you know there are knots in the
it would be better to: rope before you descend, you can
- Unfasten it speed things up by abseiling with a
- Re-tie a better knot (alpine butterfly pre-attached prusik above your belay
is recommended) device.
- Ascend back to the anchor and find
a different way down * The same technique can be used
when abseiling with an extended
* It’s highly recommended to practise belay device. During step 6, you will
this technique before you actually need to down-prusik a few moves to
need to use it. Dangling in space with ease your weight onto your tied-off
your belay device jammed into the belay device.
knot and a prusik out of reach above
is a common error for first-timers. Try * There are many variations of this
it out on different angles of rock, with same technique. The most important
your prusiks at different heights and thing to remember is to fasten a back-
attached to different lengths of sling. up knot before you detach your belay
device.
Pendulum Abseils
Multi-pitch descents are not always Being able to swing or tension across
straightforward. The next abseil to reach the next abseil station is key
station may be far to the side of the in these situations.
previous one (they often are when
descending loose ground). Or maybe You can pendulum when leading too
you need to bail down an (see page 61).
overhanging wall.
It is recommended to abseil with an

extended belay device and a prusik
(see page 35) for tricky abseils like
these. Being able to go hands-free is
crucial.
Step 1
To swing to an abseil station on
overhanging ground, you’ll need to
start the pendulum early. Push out
from the rock with your legs as you
descend. Keep your momentum and
be ready to clip or grab the next
anchor. If you end up stranded in
space, you’ll need to prusik (see page
116) back up and try again.
On traversing ground, it’s often better

to tension across (semi-climb while
weighting the rope), so your rope isn’t
rubbing over possible sharp edges of
rock. If this is too difficult, a pendulum
will get you further across, but be very
careful of loose rock and sharp edges
when doing this.
Step 2
Once you have made it to the next
station, tie the end of the ‘pulling’ rope
(the one you will pull to retrieve your
ropes) to the anchor. This gives your
partner something to grab so they can
get to the anchor without having to
pendulum there. It also ensures that
you cannot drop your ropes. On long
traverses, you can help your partner
by belaying them in too.
Step 3
Once all climbers are at the lower
station, pull your ropes and repeat.
Top Tips .
* It’s better for the first climber to * To avoid getting your ropes stuck
descend with the minimum gear when traversing, consider abseiling
needed. The other climber(s) should with them in coils clipped to your
take the heavier loads since it is harness. Release them one at a time
much easier to follow than ‘lead’ a as you descend.
descent like this.
Stuck Abseil Ropes – Prevention
The techniques described in this If you are about to abseil down
section are simple guidelines for complex terrain, consider these
preventing your ropes from getting prevention strategies before you
stuck in standard situations. throw your ropes.
Reduce Anchor Friction

If there is a lot of friction at the abseil 2) Move the knot so it is over the lip of
point, the following three methods can a ledge
help to reduce it.
1) Add a carabiner if the rope was

previously threaded through cord
3) Extend the main abseil point over

the lip of a ledge
Rope Angle
Avoid abseiling from anchors that are wise to make a short abseil over the
low down and far away from an edge, edge and then set up a second
forming a right-angle in the rope. The anchor on the face.
added friction from the rope running
around the edge will make it more
difficult to retrieve the rope. Also, if
there is mud or snow on the edge, the
rope will cut into it, causing the knot to
get stuck. If you must use an anchor
like this, you could extend it with cord
so that the main point hangs over the
edge. If this is not possible, it may be
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Shorter Abseils Test Pull
When abseiling down terrain where If there is a lot of friction between the
ropes are likely to get stuck, it is ropes and the rock or anchor, it is
much better to do shorter abseils. worth doing a test pull. Once the first
This will allow you to have more climber is down, they pull on the
control over where the ropes run, and retrieving rope. If the ropes don't
will also mean that you won't have to move, the second climber can reduce
climb back up as far to retrieve stuck friction at the anchor (see previous
ropes. pages). Then do another quick test
pull to see if that solved the problem.
Windy Abseils If the ropes still won’t pull, the second

When throwing your ropes down in climber could abseil part way down
high winds, they are unlikely to drop the face and make an intermediate
where you want them. To combat this, anchor to abseil from, before joining
clip the rope to yourself in short loops. the first climber at the lower anchor.
Release the loops one at a time as This, however, may cause more
you descend. problems if the ropes get stuck during
retrieval, since it is much harder to
retrieve ropes alone.
When Pulling Ropes
By standing further out from the wall
when pulling ropes, the knot is pulled Check While Abseiling
through the air instead of against the As you abseil down, look for places
rock, meaning that it is less likely to where the knots could get caught.
get caught. It also helps to flick the Flakes, cracks, spikes, trees or
rope to guide the knot around constrictions between boulders are
obstacles. classic places for ropes to get stuck.
Flick your ropes so they don’t run
over these features.
Stuck Abseil Ropes – Solutions

Prevention is better than cure. But - If you have both strands within
sometimes, no matter what you do to reach
prevent it, your ropes will get stuck - How much rope you have pulled
anyway. How you retrieve them through
depends on: - How easy it is to climb up
- What the rope is stuck on
First Considerations
Be aware that when a stuck rope where you can move out of the line of
comes free, it could dislodge loose rockfall and not shock-load the belay
rock. Try to get yourself into a position which you are hanging from.
If you have just started pulling the to see if you can dislodge them from
ropes, first make sure you are pulling wherever they’re stuck. You can also
the correct one, and are not pulling pull on the other end to see if
the knot up into the anchor. reversing the ropes unsticks them.
If you are at a single pitch crag, If this doesn’t work, you might as well
consider if it would be easier to walk pull on it as hard as you can. To make
to the top to retrieve the ropes. this easier, wrap a prusik cord around
the rope and lean back with it clipped
Resist the temptation to immediately to your belay loop, or get more weight
pull hard on a stuck rope, as this may on the rope by having your partner
jam it further. Instead, flick the ropes pull too.
jjjjjjjjjjjj
Climbing Up To Reach a Stuck Rope

If a stuck rope cannot be freed from
below, you must climb back up to deal
with whatever is holding it in place.
There are two main ways to do this;
leading and prusiking. Stuck
Rope
Leading is the preferred method since
it avoids the danger of releasing
loose rock if the rope suddenly comes
free.
Tie into the end of the rope that you

have managed to pull down, then get
belayed on this end as you lead back Spare
up to the problem. The obvious Rope
limitation is that you can only climb
back up as far as you have rope
available.
Prusiking Up To Reach a Stuck Rope

If the rock you abseiled down is This is especially true when you get
unclimbable, you will have to climb higher up and change the direction of
the rope itself using prusiks (The pull in the ropes. Therefore, it is
technique of prusiking is detailed on essential that you keep yourself safe
page 116). Just because you and your while you ascend. The method you
partner have been pulling on the rope use to do this depends on if you have
doesn’t mean that it won’t suddenly one or both ends of the ropes.
come free while you are prusiking up.
Prusiking Stuck Ropes - If You Have Both Ends of the Ropes
Having both ends of the ropes within

reach is much better than just having
one. You can either wrap your prusiks
around both ropes (as shown on the
right), or just the ‘pulling’ rope
(described below).
Whichever method you choose, make

sure to keep re-tying back-up knots
(figure-8 on a bight or clovehitch work
well) in the ropes as you ascend.
If you prusik up just the pulling rope, when the ropes can move freely. This
you’ll need to counterbalance it with gives you a better idea where the
your partner’s weight in order to be ropes are stuck.
safe. Do this by getting them to attach
to the other rope. This closes the Once you reach the anchor, or a point
system so that you won’t fall if the where the ropes move freely, you can
ropes suddenly come free. The avoid getting them stuck again by re-
advantage of this method is that your routing the ropes, building an
partner will be able to feel your weight intermediate anchor or extending the
pulling on their harness at the point original anchors over an edge.
rrrrrrrrrr
Warnings
1) If the ropes are running through cord
at the abseil station (instead of a
carabiner or maillon), make sure to
prusik on both ropes. The sawing
action of you prusiking on one rope
could melt the cord and cause it to fail.
2) Bouncing up and down on the ropes

while prusiking generates more force
on the anchor than the force you
applied when abseiling from it. If you
are uncertain about the quality of your
anchor, you can place gear on the rope
which you are ascending, while being
belayed (described on the following
pages).
Prusiking Stuck Ropes - If You Only Have One End of the Ropes
If you have a lot of rope available

If you were able to pull quite a lot of
rope through, you can tie into the end
of the rope and get belayed up on this.
Place gear and clip it to the ‘lead’
section of rope as you prusik up the
stuck section.
Once you have reached the end of the

other rope, it will be safer to switch your
prusiks to be around both ropes. Make
sure to back up your prusiks with a knot
on both ropes if you do this.
Before committing to prusiking up a

single rope, assess how many gear
placements there are above and how
much rope you have available to lead
up.
An alternative is to cut the rope and

abandon the section which is stuck
above you. You will then be able to use Spare
this to protect sections of downclimbing Rope
and to make short abseils.
If you don’t have much rope available
This is a poor situation to be in. and placing gear on it as you go. Your
However, it may still be possible to partner belays you on this rope.
retrieve your ropes. This technique Here’s how:
involves prusiking up the stuck rope
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Step 1
Tie a clovehitch (figure-8 on a bight is
fine too) on a screwgate and attach it
to your belay loop. This is your tie-in
point.
Step 2
Your partner ties into the end of the
stuck rope (to close the system) and
then puts you on belay.
Spare
Step 3 Rope
Prusik up the rope. You will need to
re-tie the clovehitch as you ascend.
Tie a new one before untying the old
one.
You could also shuffle rope through

the clovehitch to adjust it, but be
aware that if the stuck rope pulls free
while you are mid-shuffle, the knot
may not lock properly and there is a
real danger of severing your finger in
the suddenly tightened knot.
Step 4
Place gear as you ascend and clip
this into the rope between you and
your partner. If the stuck rope
suddenly pulls free, you will fall and be
protected by the gear you placed.
Your belayer will need to give slack as

you ascend and take in slack when
you adjust your clovehitch.
Descending from Bad Anchors
Poor abseil anchors are often found Never trust an anchor if you have any
on seldom travelled multi-pitch doubts about its reliability. Other
descents or alpine ridge traverses. options include:
Sometimes there is no anchor where - Belayed downclimbing

you need one, or the existing anchor - Beefing up the anchor
is untrustworthy. It is your - Backing up the anchor
responsibility to fully inspect every
anchor before you use it.
Belayed Downclimbing
If the terrain is easy enough, it may
be possible to downclimb. This means
you don’t need to leave any of your
own gear behind.
The leader climbs down first, placing

gear as they descend. Once they
reach an anchor (or the ground), they
can belay the follower, who removes
the gear on their way down.
The last climber must be careful as

they will downclimb above gear which
they didn’t place.
You will need some sort of anchor at fairly unsuitable for abseiling, such as
the top to begin the descent. This a few cams which are widely spaced
anchor needs to be solid but can be apart.
ffffffffffffffff
Beefing Up the Anchor

If you embark on a route which has a If you make a new anchor, be sure to
complicated descent, it is worth remove any ancient gear that you
bringing ‘leaver’ slings, nuts and replace so no-one uses it in the
carabiners for beefing up anchors. future.
Poor anchors do not necessarily need Sometimes the anchor pieces are
replacing entirely. Often one extra good, but the carabiner or maillon
piece equalized to the anchor will (quick link) at the main point is worn.
make it good enough. This is a critical part, since it is the
ooooooo
only thing connecting the rope to the
anchor. Add another if you are unsure.
If you leave a snapgate carabiner,

make sure to tape the gate closed so
it can’t unclip during your descent.
Sacrificing your expensive climbing

gear to beef up an anchor is painful.
But it’s not as painful as falling down
a mountain after the anchor fails.
Make sure it is bomber.
Backing Up the Anchor

If an anchor is okay but not
completely bomber, you can add a
separate backup to test it’s strength
without fully committing to it.
Your backup must be:

1) Connected in such a way which
means it doesn’t hold any of the
weight
2) Positioned appropriately for any
potential direction of pull
3) Capable of holding the load should
the initial anchor fail
The heaviest climber descends first

with most of the gear or the heaviest
bag. The second climber carefully
watches the anchor for any signs of
failure and then decides whether to
leave the backup in place or to
remove it and trust the original anchor weight. In this case, the backup
alone. should be left in place when the last
climber descends. If you’re not sure,
The original anchor has not passed just leave the backup there and enjoy
the test if the backup holds any of the a stress-free and safe descent.
Reaching a Poor Anchor when Leading
If it is not possible to make a safe
anchor after leading a pitch, you can
use the techniques described on pages
108-110 to get down safely.
Descending Loose Rock
Abseiling down loose rock is a

climber’s nightmare. Seek out other
options (such as downclimbing or
abseiling a different way) before
committing to the descent.
However, if you encounter a choss-

pile in the middle of a multi-pitch
descent, you can ‘zigzag abseil’ to
reduce the chances of being hit by
rocks when you pull your ropes.
Move sideways as you descend

(pendulum or tension traverse) and
make the next abseil anchor as far to
one side as you can.
This might mean leaving gear behind,

but it puts you out of the line of
rockfall when you pull your ropes.
Lead Skills
58 Loose Rock and Runout Routes
61 Pendulums and Tension Traverses
64 Basic Aid Climbing
69 Basic Hauling
73 Simul Climbing
Climb: Monte Sordo, Finale Ligure, Italy. Photographer: James Rushforth.

Climbing on Loose Rock
Accidents involving loose rock fall into up stuck in a band of choss, take your
three main categories: time and be very gentle.
1) Belayers being hit by rocks from
the leader There are precautions you can take
2) Leaders falling because they held/ (such as wearing a helmet, not
stood on loose rock starting a route beneath other
3) Being hit by random rockfall from climbers, or just avoiding loose routes
above (either from other climbers, altogether), but if you climb enough
natural rockfall or from your ropes alpine rock, you’ll eventually
when abseiling) encounter an unavoidable loose
section.
One of the major contributing factors
to accidents when climbing on loose The real skill is to learn how to deal
rock is known as ‘positive with choss. You can place gear in
reinforcement'. You climb a chossy loose rock, you can pull on loose
route, place gear behind loose flakes blocks. But you first have to factor the
and climb on loose blocks. They stay following into the equation:
in place and you’re fine. - Exactly how loose the features are
- How sharp the edges are
You climb another chossy route - How big the loose rock is
without dislodging rocks on your - Where the rock would fall if it broke
belayer. And another and another. - If you have gear beneath you in
Success! There’s nothing like positive solid rock
reinforcement. - How your partner will follow the pitch
However, the truth is that in most near It is fairly safe to climb through a small
misses, the climber has no idea they band of brittle flakes if your belayer is
even had a near miss. Maybe you out of the rockfall zone and you have
didn’t weigh quite enough to pull that good gear in solid rock just below you.
huge block off. Climbing on loose rock Place gear appropriately so that your
is a bit like playing football on a rope runs clear of any loose blocks or
minefield. Stay away, but if you end sharp edges. Communicate with your
mmmmmmmm pppppppp
VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving > Lead Skills 58
partner so they know where the loose sharp-edged ‘death blocks’ with your
sections are. It is not safe to climb a belayer and another team directly
massive, teetering jenga-tower of below.
sssssssss
Testing Rock Quality

Visual Test Tap Test
Look at the feature and figure out how If you are still uncertain about the
it is attached to the main part of the quality of a rock feature, give it a
wall. If it looks detached, don’t touch gentle tap and listen to the noise it
it. makes. Loose rock ‘echoes’ and
sounds hollow.
Some features have very thin fracture
lines around them, which suggest If you must climb through a small
poor rock quality. These fracture lines band of brittle flakes, determine which
are sometimes covered in lichen or are the best holds and selectively
otherwise hard to see, so look distribute your weight between them.
carefully. Pull down on holds, rather than out.
Runout Routes
Runout routes (climbs with little or no Here are some tips to help you stick
protection) should only be attempted to these two rules:
by experienced climbers who
understand the risks involved. * Choose a route which is well within
your comfort zone.
You can obviously reduce your
chances of an accident by not * Make slow, controlled movements,
climbing a sparsely protected route. keeping three points of contact at all
However, if you are lured in by the times.
appeal of danger, or if you just end up
on a runout section, you will be safe if * Place gear at every possible
you abide by the two golden rules: opportunity. Go off-route if you have
to.
1) Do not climb up something that you
cannot climb down * Equalize gear to make a stronger
2) Do not fall! point of protection. A lot of bad gear
equalized together is better than no
gear.
* Test the quality of each hand and * Remember that you can always
foot hold before you use them. Stay downclimb if the route gets too
away from loose rock. sketchy.
Following a Runout Traverse – Back Roping

The consequence of falling on an If the follower still faces a serious fall,
unprotectable traverse is likely to be a they could use a ‘back rope’. Back
horrendous pendulum. Depending on roping works best when climbing on
the route, this could be much worse two ropes (such as half ropes).
for the follower than the leader.
If you only have one rope, consider
To reduce fall potential, the leader the lowering-out technique instead
should place protection as high as (see page 62).
possible before and after the traverse.
Step 1
Leave one of the ropes clipped into
the last reliable piece of gear. It must
be bomber and capable of taking a
sideways and a downwards pull. You
will have to leave this piece of gear
behind.
Step 2
Clip a carabiner or quickdraw to your
belay loop and to the rope which you
are back roping from. This ensures
that you can retrieve your rope after
the next steps.
Step 3
As you climb across the traverse, the
leader takes in on one rope (red) and
gives slack on the other (blue). If you
fall, you will be suspended between
the ropes.
Step 4
After the traverse, untie from the back
rope and pull it through the gear.
Make sure there is no knot in the end
of the rope!
Step 5
Tie back in to the end of the rope and
allow your partner to take in the slack
before you continue climbing.
Pendulums and Tension Traverses

Knowing how to ‘bail sideways’ is a Your problems may be solved if you
good skill to have. Maybe you’ve can pendulum (swing across) or
climbed off-route and now have a tension traverse (climb across while
blank expanse between you and the assisted by a tight rope) to easier
right route, or maybe you’re halfway ground.
up a pitch and the climbing gets too
difficult. Pendulums can also be used when
abseiling (see page 45).
Step 1
Place a piece of gear which can hold
a downwards and a sideways pull
(you may want to equalize a couple
together). This gear needs to be
bomber, and you may not be able to
retrieve it later.
Step 2
Clip your rope into the gear and ask
your belayer to take you tight on the
rope.
Step 3
Get your belayer to lower you. If you
plan to pendulum, you can start
swinging as you are being lowered.
Do this by running sideways across
the wall. Communicate with your
belayer so you don't get lowered too
far – make sure you know where
you're trying to swing to!
Step 4 extend the next few pieces of gear to

Keep your momentum and swing a reduce rope drag.
little higher each time. Often, you'll
need to grab a hold at the pinnacle of A tension traverse is similar but
your swing, so be ready for this. Once instead of swinging, you will semi-
you've stuck the pendulum, continue climb across with some of your weight
climbing as normal, making sure to on the rope.
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Top Tips
* Choosing between a pendulum and
a tension traverse is dictated by the
terrain. Pendulums are more suited to
smooth rock where there are no
features for your rope to snag. A
tension traverse is a better choice for
lower-angled, blocky terrain.
* Your partner will need plenty of slack

rope to follow the traverse (around
twice the diagonal distance of the * If using half ropes, clip one to the
pendulum). This usually isn't a pendulum point and the other to the
problem, but if you climb a full rope pieces after the traverse. This will
length with a pendulum at the start of significantly reduce your rope drag
the pitch, your partner won’t have and make it easier for your partner to
enough rope to follow it safely. follow.
Following Pendulums and Lowering Out

Following is easy if the leader did a be able to remove the gear which the
short traverse and extended gear well leader traversed from or else you'll
afterwards. Just follow the pitch as swing uncontrollably across the wall.
normal and gently swing/tension To avoid this, you'll need to do a
across. However, for longer traverses lower-out. It’s important to
across unclimbable terrain, you won’t communicate well with your partner
bbbbbbbb bbbbbbbbb
during this process (If you are climbing from falling to the end of the rope. You
with two ropes, you may choose to use will still swing across the rock, but
the simpler back rope technique – much less than if you had lowered out
see page 60). without a belay device.
There is no completely safe way to GriGri’s (or similar) will lock in the
follow a long traverse because there is majority of cases that they are
always the danger of the lower-out suddenly loaded. However, they are
piece failing. Using a belay device as not actually designed for this.
described on the following pages Depending on the distance, difficulty
significantly reduces the and consequences of the traverse
consequences of a fall if the piece and the quality of your lower-out
fails. If it fails, your belay device (in piece, you may want to back up your
most cases) will lock, stopping you attachment with a prusik.
lllllllllllll
Step 1
When you reach the gear which the
leader traversed from, clip into it with a
sling. If you have a good hands-free
stance, you don’t need to clip in. Make
sure the gear is still bomber after being
pulled sideways by the leader. If you’re
not certain about it, back it up with
another piece.
Step 2
Attach a GriGri to the rope as shown.
Step 3
Tell your partner that you are ready to
lower. They will pull in the slack so the
rope comes tight. You can now remove
your clip-in sling if you are using one.
Be aware that the tensioned rope will
pull all the other pieces of gear in
different directions which may cause
them to be plucked out.
Step 4
Communicate with your partner as
they lower you down and across. If
semi-climbing (tension traversing),
your partner may have to alternate
between taking in and lowering out.
Step 5
Once you make it across, you’ll need
to retrieve your rope from the lower-
out point and then transition back to
climbing. This is much easier if you
have a hands-free stance. If you
don’t, you could clip directly into a
piece of gear to un-weight the rope.
Either way, tie-off your belay device
and remove any prusiks.
Step 6
Untie from the end of the rope and
pull it through the lower-out point.
Make sure to completely remove your Step 9
tie-in knot before you let go of the Remove your belay device once your
rope! partner has taken in all the slack. You
are now ready to continue following
Step 7 as normal.
Tie back in to the end of the rope.
If you have lowered down too far, or
Step 8 still cannot climb the pitch, you can
Release your tied-off belay device prusik up the rope (see page 116)
and belay the slack rope through until you reach easier ground.
while your partner takes it in at the
same time. This protects you from It may be possible to retrieve the
falling to the end of the rope should lower-out gear by penduluming to it
you fall at this point. when you are higher up.
Basic Aid Climbing
Using protection pieces as hand or

foot holds is generally regarded as a
poor style of ascent. But using this
simple technique to get yourself out of
trouble is very good style.
Many alpine routes have sections

that, in poor weather, may be
impossible without using aid. Just a
few aid moves may be all that is
needed to reach a summit or a safer can also provide a way to safely move
descent. Knowledge of aid techniques up or down a crag in an emergency.
French-Free
This is the most basic form of aid to the next.
climbing which means grabbing hold of
a piece of gear and pulling on it to miss Times when you might french-free:
out a move. You could also clip a sling - To avoid a tough move
directly to the gear to use as a foot - If you need to move quickly and
loop. don’t have time to figure out a crux
sequence
If you think your partner may struggle - If you think you’ll fall while clipping a
to follow a section of the climb, you can piece of gear. You can hold onto the
help them by placing gear frequently gear, then clip, then continue
enough so they can pull from one piece climbing
Basic Aid Setup

Aid climbing is more efficient when
using daisy chains and etriers, but Daisy
these are not worth taking on a climb Chains
unless you specifically plan to aid
sections. Here is an improvised set of
aiders:
* Two 120cm slings girth hitched

through tie-in points (or belay loop), with
overhand knots tied at intervals. Knots
are offset so the loops stay open
(improvised daisy chains).
Etriers
* Two long slings/pieces of webbing

attached to daisy chains with a
carabiner. Offset overhand knots are
tied at intervals (improvised etriers).
* Carabiner attached to belay loop. This

is used for shortening the daisy chain
or clipping yourself directly into gear.
Top Tip
It’s better if the daisy chain is on the
spine side of the carabiner, and the
etrier is on the gate side. This allows
your daisy to slide up the spine (rather
than get stuck in the gate, or unclip
from it) when you stand up high.
Basic Aid Technique
Step 1 – Place Gear
Place a piece of gear and clip an
aider to it.
Step 2 – Test Gear

Unless you've just clipped a bolt or an
obviously bomber piece of gear, you
should test it before fully committing.
How you test it depends on what the
gear is.
First, ease your weight onto the piece,

until it holds the majority of your body
weight.
Nuts, slings and pitons can be

‘bounce tested’. Do this by bouncing More easily damaged or low-strength
your weight on your top daisy or etrier, gear, (such as cams or micro nuts)
with a slightly increased force each should only be very gently bounced.
time. Essentially, you are shock-
loading the gear. Tiny cams or skyhooks shouldn't be
bounce tested, as they would be
If the gear fails, you'll swing gently damaged over time. To test, weight
onto your daisy on the lower piece, the piece, press your body away from
which should be strong enough to the wall and move side-to-side. This
hold because you bounce tested it – generates a little more force than
right? bodyweight without the harsh impact
of a bounce and simulates the
Bounce testing is a skill that requires direction you might pull the piece
a fair amount of practise to when you're higher up on it.
understand the amount of force which
is generated. A piece that survives the Try not to look directly at the piece
bounce test will likely hold your weight you are testing – if it fails, it'll hit you
while you walk up your aiders but it in the face! Look away, and wear a
does not necessarily mean it will hold helmet.
a fall.
Step 3 – Commit
Once you're happy that the piece will
at least hold your weight, it's time to
commit. Shorten your daisy or clip in
directly to the piece so you can sit in
your harness.
Step 4 – Reset
Clip your lead rope into the lower
piece. Then remove your aider from it.
Step 5 – Get High

Getting as high as possible on your
top piece means less moves to the
top.
On slabby terrain, use your etrier

steps to walk upwards. With practise
you should be able to stand in the top Vertical or overhanging terrain is
step. Your daisy will slide up the spine more strenuous. Pull on the gear
of its carabiner. while walking up the steps until you
can clip directly into the gear with the
Adjust your daisy shorter to give you carabiner on your belay loop.
some downwards tension for balance.
This also means that if you lose Once you are as high up as you can
balance you won't fall the full length of get, it's time to place another piece of
the daisy. gear and repeat the sequence.
Basic Aid – Following

To follow a section of aid, you can Make sure to communicate with the
either prusik up the rope (see page leader so they know whether to belay
116) or aid up using the same you or fix the rope to the anchor for
technique as the leader. prusiking.
Removing Gear while Prusiking

If a piece of gear isn’t being pulled prusik will jam into it if you go too
sideways by the rope, you can simply close.
unclip and remove it. Make sure to
unclip the gear when your prusik is Often, the gear will be pulled sideways
still a few inches below it – your by the rope and it is very hard to
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unclip. In this situation:
- Weight your lower prusik
- Remove your upper prusik from the
rope
- Re-tie the prusik on the rope above
the gear and weight it
- Now you can more easily remove or
unclip the gear
Sometimes, this results in your lower

prusik getting ‘sucked in’ to the piece
of gear (particularly if the route is
slightly traversing or overhanging).
For pitches like this, it is useful to
have a belay device (GriGri’s work
best) set up on your belay loop.
Here’s how:

Prusik close to the piece. Remove both prusiks Release rope through
(one at a time) and re- your GriGri so that you
Step 2 attach them above the are weighting the
Pull slack through your piece. prusiks.
GriGri and weight it.
Step 5
Now you can remove
the gear.
Basic Aid – Traverses and Overhangs
The system for aiding a roof is To follow a traverse or a steep
basically the same as a traverse. Just overhang, you'll need to take your
place a piece then reach as far prusiks off the rope and clip directly
sideways as you can to place your into each piece of gear that the leader
next piece. It's often difficult to placed. Effectively, you are 'leading
bounce test from this position, so try on top rope’.
stamping in your etrier instead of
weighting your daisy. Simply clip across the pieces,
removing the ones behind you as you
Clipping every piece of gear to the go. Make sure to re-adjust your back
rope will make it easier for your up knots frequently, so you won’t fall
partner to follow. far if a piece fails.
Basic Aid – Top Tips

* Always use a back up (such as a * When switching from aid to free
clovehitch attached to your belay loop climbing in the middle of a pitch,
with a screwgate) when prusiking up a attach a sling to your top piece. This
rope. will be your final foot step before you
free climb. Make sure to clip your
* When leading, clip as high on the aiders and daisies away on the back
piece as possible (e.g; in the plastic of your harness so you won't trip over
thumb-loop of a cam, rather than the them.
sling). This gives you more height,
meaning quicker overall progress.
* It's better to use a 'keyhole' style

carabiner for your aiders, as it will be
less likely to get stuck on slings and
wires than a 'nose' style carabiner.
You can use either a snapgate or
screwgate.
Basic Hauling
Hauling a bag on a separate rope can Hauling is typically only beneficial on
be much easier than climbing with it terrain steeper than 80 degrees,
on your back. This technique is useful where there are few obstacles and no
for: loose rock. Otherwise, you’ll be better
- Overnight routes carrying the load on your back.
- Long, steep multi-pitches when your
daypack is heavy
How To Haul
Equipment Step 1
For a basic hauling setup, you’ll need: Attach one end of the haul rope to the
- A second rope back of your harness. If your harness
- A hauling device (such as a Petzl Micro doesn’t have a designated ‘haul loop’,
Traxion) you can loop a short sling around the
- A durable bag back of your waist belt and attach the
rope to that. Be careful of using gear
loops – they can break if the rope
gets stuck.

Attach the bag to the When you arrive at the The belayer releases
other end of the haul top of the pitch, attach the bag from the lower
rope and also directly the hauling device to the anchor.
to the anchor with a master point. Feed the
sling. rope through the device
first, then unclip the rope
from your harness (this
ensures that you cannot
drop the rope). Pull
through slack until the
rope is tight on the bag
at the lower anchor.
Step 5 Step 6
Haul the bag up, stacking the rope Clip the bag to the anchor with its
neatly as you go. For light loads, it is sling and remove the hauling setup.
quickest to hand-over-hand the rope You can now belay your partner.
and periodically pull slack through the
hauling device. For heavier loads, it is
much easier to use your body weight
to pull the bag up. Use a GriGri as
shown.
Belay
Loop
Basic Hauling Tips

* A specifically designed ‘mini * Using a dynamic lead rope (instead
haulbag’ is best, but any backpack of a static rope or cord) as your haul
can be used, providing the terrain is line gives you more options. It acts as
suitable. Make sure to attach the pack a back up if your main rope is
securely, tuck away any straps and damaged, or it can be used in
use common sense. Hauling a conjunction with the main rope for
lightweight pack up low-angled rock wandering pitches (i.e: treat them as
will most likely result in you losing all half ropes). Having a second rope
your belongings and dislodging rocks. also doubles the length of your
abseils.
* On long traversing pitches, the bag
should be tied in short with an alpine
butterfly. This enables the belayer to
lower the bag out gently with the
remaining rope.
If the bag is fairly light, you can simply

lower it out by hand. Heavier loads
may need to be lowered out using a
munter hitch or belay device as
shown.
Spare
Rope
* If you don’t have a pulley, an

alternative for light loads is to simply
belay the bag up with an auto-
blocking belay device (such as a
GriGri or an ATC in guide mode) or a
garda hitch.
If the bag gets stuck, you can pause

hauling and begin belaying your
partner. Once they have climbed up
and freed the bag, you can tie-off the
lead rope and continue hauling.
* Some hauling devices may not

always lock with certain rope
diameters. If your chosen technique
involves letting go of the rope, you
should add the occasional back up
knot so the bag cannot fall the full
length of the rope.
* Some hauling devices are easily
dropped. To prevent this, the leader
can trail the haul rope with the device
pre-attached as shown. After leading
a pitch, the device can be attached to
the anchor before removing the rope
from your harness. This means that
you can’t drop either the device or the
rope while setting up the haul.
Simul Climbing
Simul climbing is a technique where Advantages

all climbers move at the same time - Much faster than belayed climbing.
while tied into the same rope.
Protection is placed by the first
climber and removed by the last. Disadvantages
- Much more dangerous than belayed
This technique allows climbers to climbing. If the follower falls, they
extend the length of their pitches, could pull the leader off too.
without extending the length of their
rope. With experience, a simul-pitch
can stretch for 300m or more, Simul Climbing is Dangerous:
whereas a belayed pitch is limited by - If any member of the team might
the length of your rope. find the route difficult (especially the
follower)
- On loose rock
Simul Climbing is Most Useful: - On runout routes (climbs which offer
- On long, easy routes when it is little protection)
safer to move fast (e.g: if climbing - For inexperienced climbers
pitch-by-pitch would result in getting
hit by a storm or stranded
overnight). Prerequisite Skills
- On a long, exposed approach or Simul climbing introduces a level of
descent when a fall is very unlikely, risk that is completely inappropriate
but the consequences would be for beginner climbers. This section is
severe. written for experienced trad climbers
- If a pitch is slightly longer than your who are proficient at:
rope length. A short section of simul - Placing trad gear and building
climbing can allow the leader to anchors
reach a more solid belay. - Route-finding on complex terrain
- Leading long multi-pitch routes
- Self-rescue
- Analysing and managing risk
The Basic Simul Climbing System
Step 1 Step 2
The leader begins climbing. They When the leader has climbed the full
place gear and are belayed with a length of the available rope, the
GriGri. belayer simply begins climbing
(leaving their GriGri attached to their
belay loop).
Step 3 Step 4
Both climbers continue up, moving at When the leader reaches a suitable
the exact same speed and keeping anchor, they stop climbing and belay
protection on the rope between them. the follower up.
Simul Climbing Equipment
What To Take Gear Distribution
With both climbers constantly moving, It’s better to distribute the gear fairly
it is easier to stay warm, and so belay evenly between the leader and the
jackets could be left behind. With a follower so that neither climber has an
faster style of ascent, you could take excessively heavy load. Often, the
less food and water. leader will take a little more weight so
the follower will be able to stay as
The less you bring, the easier the light and nimble as possible.
climbing will feel, and the less chance
you will have of getting exhausted or Remember that the leader will start
benighted on a long route. However, the simul-pitch with the whole rack,
the decision to leave critical items but the follower will have it all by the
behind should only be made with lots end.
of experience.
Depending on how far you plan to Simul Climbing Devices

stretch your simul-pitches, you may In addition to the equipment you
want to bring a bigger rack. Having would normally take on a multi-pitch,
more gear enables you to climb the these two devices give you more
route in less pitches and therefore options for simul climbing:
spend less time changing over - Progress capture devices (such as
belays. the RollNLock or Tibloc)
- An assisted braking belay device
(such as a GriGri)
The Simul Climbing Setup

For most situations, the optimum Simply using a 30m rope has
distance between climbers while simul drawbacks, especially if your route
climbing is around 30 meters. This is has an involved descent. Shortening
close enough that you can a full length rope with coils will give
communicate well with each other you more options on the route. There
and manage rope drag, but also far are several ways of doing this. A
enough to ensure adequate simple setup is described on the
protection between climbers. following page.
Follower:
- Tied in to the end of the rope with a
figure-8.
- 20-30m of rope is neatly coiled over
the shoulder, then pulled tight to
belay loop with an alpine butterfly.
- GriGri pre-attached to belay loop
with a small amount of slack in the
rope.
Leader:
- Tied in to the end of the rope with a
figure-8.
- GriGri pre-attached to belay loop
(this allows a quick transition to
belaying when needed).
Optional Rope Coils

The leader could also attach to the Make sure to keep your rope coils
rope with coils in the same way as the tight so they are unlikely to snag on
follower. Each climber takes half the rock features as you climb. Whenever
number of coils so the length of rope releasing coils, always keep a hand
between them is still the same. This on the brake strand of rope until you
enables the leader to quickly release either re-tie your coils or reach the
some extra rope without needing to end of the rope – GriGri’s are not
communicate this to the follower. designed to be hands-free.
Simul Climbing – Understanding Dangers
Falling Awareness
The main danger with simul climbing It’s easy to get swept up in the flow of
is falling. This isn’t a big deal if the a long simul-lead, and take
leader falls (assuming they protected unnecessary risks.
the climb well and the follower hasn’t
allowed slack into the system). As a simul-leader, you should:
- Communicate clearly with your
However, if the follower falls, they will partner about your plan.
probably pull the leader off too. The - Ensure that you protect the climb
leader will then be sucked, crotch first, well when needed.
into their last piece of gear. The force - Save enough gear to make a solid
applied to that piece of gear during a anchor.
simul-fall is far greater than the force - Be prepared to switch to belayed
applied in a standard leader fall. This climbing anytime, even if this
is because: involves downclimbing.
- There is twice as much weight - Be aware of your partners position
falling on the piece. on the route. If they are about to
- The second cannot give a dynamic climb a tricky section, you should
belay because they are falling. place gear on the rope in front of
you just before they climb it, so you
This increased force is much more are both protected. Or better, make
likely to cause the gear to fail. For this an anchor and belay them up.
reason, it is not safe to simul climb on
routes that are loose, runout, or that
either member of the team may find Unroping
difficult. Using progress-capture On long ridges, there are often
devices reduces the chance of this stretches of non-exposed hiking
type of fall (see page 78). between steeper rock sections. A
rope which is dragged through hiking
terrain is likely to get stuck or
dislodge rocks.
It may be safer to put the rope away

and stay close together, therefore
avoiding any self-inflicted rockfall
danger, and being able to
communicate more easily about
route-finding.
Make sure you have a solid belay

when transitioning back to belaying or
simul climbing. Being unroped on
exposed and/or difficult terrain is
obviously very dangerous.
Climbing at Different Speeds – The Accordion Effect
It is important for both climbers to Also, if the follower would prefer a real
move at the same pace so there is no belay for a difficult section, but the
unnecessary slack in the system. leader needs more rope to reach a
Having too much slack can result in solid anchor, the follower can release
either an unnecessarily long fall for some coils and belay the leader until
the leader, or a high loading of the they find an anchor.
progress-capture device if the follower
falls. Once the leader has made a suitable
anchor, the follower can either tie-off
The follower also risks pulling the the coils again or continue belaying
leader off the wall if they are not out the rest of their coils while the
keeping up the pace, or if they have leader belays the rope in. This
to down-climb. ensures there is never any
unnecessary slack in the system.
Keeping the exact same pace all the Once all the slack has been taken in,
time is extremely difficult. However, the leader can continue to belay the
using rope coils makes this much follower up to the anchor.
easier.
Similarly, if the leader encounters a
For example, the leader may stop to difficult section, the follower can stop
place gear, when the follower is in a at a good stance and/or make an
strenuous or awkward position. anchor. The follower can then release
Instead of staying there, the follower their coils and belay the leader.
can move up to a comfortable
position while pulling the excess slack Being able to quickly transition
through their GriGri. From a resting between simuling and belayed
position, the follower can then belay climbing allows you to safely navigate
the slack rope back while the leader crux sections while cruising across
climbs up. the easier terrain.
Using Progress-Capture Devices

The use of a progress-capture device Rope To
(such as the RollNLock or Tibloc) can Leader
protect the leader from receiving too
hard of a pull on their rope if the
follower falls.
The leader simply attaches a PCD to

a piece of gear as shown. In theory, if
the follower falls, the device will lock
on the rope and hold the fall without
affecting the leader.
In reality, there are serious
drawbacks, which could make the
situation more dangerous if the
system is not fully understood.
PCD's should only be attached to

bomber multi-directional gear with
minimum extension. Clipping one
directly to a bolt is the best option, but
they can also work well with trad gear
if some cunning sling craft is used.
Make sure your rope is able to run
freely through the device.
The more the device can move up or

down, the more the leader will ‘feel’ a
tug if the follower falls and therefore
have a greater chance of being pulled
off. This will also exert a greater force
on the rope, increasing the chance of
ruining the sheath. For this reason, do
not extend a PCD.
The leader should place another

progress-capture device before the
follower removes the previous one, so
there is always one in the system.
Dangers of Progress-Capture Devices

* Many types of PCD work poorly on * A high force (such as the follower
wet or icy ropes. falling when there is slack in the
system, or falling on a ridge traverse)
* If the leader needs to downclimb, could sever the rope’s sheath.
the follower cannot take in any of the
slack created. In this case, the leader * On wandering climbs, the PCD may
must belay themselves down with get pulled to one side, causing it to
their GriGri. (depending on the type of device)
disengage or add rope drag.
* If the follower needs to downclimb,
they will have to remove their coils
and self-belay down.
Types of Progress-Capture Device
There are many types of PCD’s Other ribbed devices include the
available, but some are more suitable Kong Duck and the Wild Country
than others for simul climbing. A Ropeman. These do not have a
device with a ribbed camming style is pulley, so do not feed as smoothly as
less harsh on rope sheaths than a the RollNLock.
toothed device. A PCD with a ball
bearing pulley will feed rope through A much simpler device is the Petzl
smoother than one without. Tibloc which is cheaper and lighter
than the others but is toothed and has
A good device is the Climbing no pulley.
Technology RollNLock which features
a ribbed cam and a ball bearing
pulley.
Another commonly used device with a

ball bearing pulley is the Petzl Micro
Traxion. However, this is a toothed
device and so is more likely to
damage a rope’s sheath.
Simul Climbing – Summary

Simul climbing does not need to be The techniques discussed in this
epic. For example, if after climbing a section are for advanced,
full rope length, the leader is still 3 experienced climbers who are looking
meters away from a belay, the for creative ways to solve problems
follower may be able to safely provide and climb faster.
them with enough rope by removing
their belay and walking 3 meters Make sure you fully understand the
across a ledge. This may be much dangers and only apply simul climbing
safer than the leader attempting a techniques to situations when it is
desperate downclimb. safe to do so.
Self-Rescue
85 Escaping the Belay
96 Hauling Your Partner
108 Retreating Mid-Pitch
111 Tandem Abseiling
113 Rope Soloing
116 Prusiking
Photographer: Alex Ratson.

Self-Rescue – Introduction
Having a good knowledge of self- and your position, a rescue may not
rescue skills is essential for any be possible. Many remote areas do
climber. The more effectively you are not even have a rescue service
able to improve a poor situation (e.g; if available.
you are able to escape the belay and
descend with an injured partner to the The self-rescue techniques described
ground, instead of waiting in the in this manual are merely guidelines.
middle of the crag for assistance), the Many of the techniques simply will not
less risk is required of rescuers and work in the pickle you actually find
the quicker you and your partner will yourself in. For example; you cannot
receive help. safely descend if there is nowhere to
make a reliable anchor. You cannot
Your self-rescue skills should be safely escape the belay and rope solo
accompanied by a solid to an injured leader if you have no
understanding of first aid (not covered gear to make an upwards pulling
in this manual). We recommend anchor. You will often have to use your
attending a wilderness first aid course creativity to find a solution that works
to brush up on your skills. for your particular situation.
If you are capable of rescuing Make a solid plan before attempting

yourselves, you may not need to call any kind of self-rescue and consider
for outside help at all, if that is even the additional risk it puts on you and
an option. Depending on the weather your climbing partners.
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VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving > Self-Rescue 84
In general, if you can't solve your However, leaving an injured partner
problem by escaping the belay and alone adds a whole other set of
setting up a tandem abseil for you problems to the equation. If it’s
and the injured climber, it is unlikely possible to call for help (either using a
that you'll be able to effect a safe phone or shouting to nearby climbers
rescue. In this case, you should for assistance), this is usually by far
consider calling for help or leaving the the best thing you can do if you are
situation (if possible) and going for not confident solving the problem with
help yourself. your current set of skills.
Escaping the Belay
The belay escape is a technique - If your partner needs hauling

whereby the belayer frees themselves through a crux while following
from the responsibilities of belaying. - If you need to descend to your
This fundamental skill is necessary for partner to give immediate first aid
many rescue situations. - If your partner falls and is injured
while leading
Situations when you may need to - If you need to detach yourself from
escape the belay include: the rope to get outside help
The Belay Escape – How it Works

Any safe version of the belay escape The full belay escape system is
involves the same four checkpoints: described in this chapter. Depending
1) Get hands-free on the situation, you may not need to
2) Transfer climber’s weight to anchor complete all of the steps (e.g: the
3) Transfer climber’s belay to anchor process is much simpler if your
4) Remove all excess prusiks, partner is able to un-weight the rope).
carabiners and knots However, it’s important to know the
complete system before taking
The belayer can detach from the rope shortcuts.
completely if needed. The end result
is a system which can be released Three different methods are
under load and can be used again as described. These cover belaying:
a belay. Returning to belay mode is 1) From your harness (anchor is
often needed once a rescue has within reach)
begun. 2) From your harness (anchor is out
of reach)
3) Directly from the anchor (e.g: using
guide mode)
The Belay Escape – First Considerations
Before starting a belay escape, make
sure it is the best course of action for
the situation. Maybe a much simpler
option exists, such as lowering your
partner to a ledge, or getting them to
prusik up.
Depending on the direction of loading

and your course of action after
escaping the belay, you may need to
make your anchor stronger. Some
rescue techniques (such as hauling)
exert high forces on the anchor.
Beefing up the anchor is

straightforward if you are belaying a
second and there are protection
points available within reach. With
some creative sling craft and fine
tuning, you may be able to equalize a
few extra pieces to the belay.
If you are belaying a leader on a

multi-directional anchor where there is
only a single piece holding an
upwards pull (example shown), you Make sure the anchor still protects
will need to add gear or build a new you from a fall while you are adjusting
anchor before escaping the belay. pieces.
This is very difficult (or impossible) if As a last resort, you might be able to
the leader has the whole rack with rope solo (see page 113) or prusik
them. However, you may be able to (see page 116) a short distance to
adjust the existing anchor pieces and retrieve gear for backing up the
cordelette to hold an upwards pull. anchor.
The Belay Escape – When Belaying from your
Harness (Anchor within Reach)
Step 1
Get hands-free by tying off your belay
device with a mule-overhand (see
page 142).
Rope To
Climber
Spare
Rope
Step 2
Tie a prusik hitch on the weighted rope If you don’t have a long cordelette,
with a long cordelette. Make sure the you could use a short prusik cord
double fisherman’s bend which joins attached to 120cm sling.
the cord is close to the prusik hitch.
Step 3 Step 4
Clip a screwgate to the master point Tie a munter hitch with the cordelette
of the anchor. to the screwgate. Flip the munter so
it’s in the lowering position and pull all
the slack through.
Step 5 Step 6
Add a mule-overhand to the munter Slide the prusik along the rope
hitch on the cordelette (see page towards the climber to take up any
141). This creates a munter-mule- remaining slack in the cordelette.
overhand.
Step 7
Carefully release your tied-off belay is transferred to the prusik. You are
device and let a small amount of no longer hands-free, so keep one
slack through so the climber’s weight hand on the brake rope for the next 3
iiiiiiiiii steps.
Step 8
Attach a screwgate (yellow carabiner brake rope. Pull most of the excess
in this diagram) to the master point rope through so there is just enough
and tie a munter hitch on it with the slack to remove your belay device.
bbbbbbbbb
Step 9 Step 10
Keeping hold of the munter’s brake Pull the extra slack through the
strand, remove your belay device. munter hitch and flip it so it’s in the
lowering position. Finish the munter
with a mule hitch and an overhand
knot to make it a munter-mule-
overhand. You are now hands-free
again.
Step 11 Step 12
Release the mule-overhand from the Once the climber’s weight is fully on
cordelette and use the munter to the rope, remove the cordelette
transfer the climber’s weight from the completely. You have now escaped
cordelette to the rope. the belay and can move on to the
next step of your rescue.
Note
The same steps can be followed to
escape the system if you are belaying
from your harness and using a re-
directional through the anchor.
The Belay Escape – When Belaying from your

Harness (Anchor out of Reach)
This method is great if you are far belayer is tied in to the end of the
from the anchor and/or do not have a rope and then attached to the anchor
long cordelette available. The with a clovehitch or figure-8 on a
description below assumes that the bight.
bbbbbbbb
Step 1
Get hands-free by tying off your belay
device with a mule-overhand.
Rope To
Climber
Spare
Rope
Step 2
Fasten a prusik on the weighted rope
as shown and attach a screwgate to
it.
Step 3 Step 4
Reach back to your tie-in at the Tie a munter-mule-overhand on the
anchor and grab the free end of your screwgate with this part of the rope.
tie-in. If you can’t reach, run through
the rope stack until you get to it.
Step 5 Step 6
Slide the prusik down the rope Transfer the climber’s weight onto the
towards the climber to take out any prusik by releasing your tied-off belay
excess slack. device. Be prepared for a bit of rope
stretch before the prusik takes the
weight. You are no longer hands-free,
so keep one hand on the brake rope
for the next 3 steps.
Step 7
Move back to the anchor and tie a
munter hitch to it with the brake
strand of rope.
Step 8 Step 9
Remove your belay device. Bring in the excess slack and finish
the munter with a mule-overhand. You
are now hands-free again.
Step 10 Step 11
Release the mule-overhand from the Once the climber’s weight has been
rope which is attached to the prusik. transferred, you can remove the
Use the munter to transfer the prusik and its munter hitch. You have
climber’s weight from the prusik to the now escaped the belay.
munter-mule-overhand on the anchor.
The Belay Escape – When Belaying Directly from
the Anchor
When belaying directly from the hands-free – a light hand must be
anchor with a self-blocking belay kept on the brake strand while
device (such as an ATC in guide belaying. Therefore, the only step
mode) or an assisted-braking belay remaining is to add a back-up.
device (such as a GriGri), you have
already escaped the belay. These Simply tie-off the device with a mule-
belay methods are not completely overhand as shown below.
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1) 2)
3) 4) 5)
Hauling Your Partner
This section describes methods of follower to prusik up the rope than it is
hauling your partner up part of a for the leader to haul them. However,
climb. Times when you may need to hauling may be the best option if they
set up a hauling system include: are injured or cannot use prusiks.
- Assisting your partner through a
short crux. Warning – Unconscious Climber
- If your partner falls while following a Dragging a climber up a cliff may
steep pitch and is left dangling in cause additional injuries. If the
space. climber is unconscious, they should
- During a multi-pitch rescue of an not be hauled unless directly
injured climber, where descending attended. If a long or complicated
would be more difficult or haul is required, utilizing search and
dangerous. rescue professionals is usually the
best course of action.
In most cases, it is easier for the
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Mechanical Advantage
The hauling systems in this section Taking this into consideration, a 3:1
are described using their mechanical setup is still a simple and effective
advantage. solution for many situations.
A 3:1 means that for every three

meters of rope that you haul, your
partner moves up one meter. With a 3m
5:1, five meters of rope must be
hauled to move your partner one
meter. In theory, a 3:1 is three times
easier than just pulling on the rope
(1:1).
1m
In reality, improvised hauling systems
are fraught with inefficiencies,
creating a significant difference
between theoretical and actual
mechanical advantage. This is
primarily due to friction around
carabiners and stretch in the rope
(see page 107).
Hauling Your Partner – Drop Line 1:1
Best Use Disadvantages
- Assisting your partner through a - Only possible when the climber is
short crux near the top of a pitch. less than 1/3 of the rope length from
the belayer.
Advantages - Must be able to drop a rope to the
- Simple. climber easily. Getting your rope
stuck will add more problems.
Step 1
Tie off your belay device
(see page 142) so you
can go hands-free.
Step 2
Attach the standing end
of the rope to the master
point. Depending on your
belay setup, it may Rope To
already be attached Climber
Step 3 Spare
Lower the rope stack to Rope
Standing
the climber. End
Step 4
Release your tied off
belay device. Your
partner can now pull on
the standing end of the
rope while you belay
them up – they do all
the hard work! Make Climber Pulls
sure the climber pulls on on this Rope
the correct strand of
rope. You could also pre-
tie some loops in the
rope so it is easier for
them to pull.
Hauling Your Partner – Drop Line 2:1 / 3:1
Best Use Disadvantages
- Assisting your partner through a - Only possible when the climber is
short crux near the top of a pitch less than 1/3 of the rope length from
when belaying in guide mode. the belayer.
- Must be able to drop a rope to the
Advantages climber easily. Getting your rope
- Simple. stuck will add more problems.
Step 1
Attach a screwgate to the rope stack
and lower it down to the climber.
Step 2
The climber clips this screwgate to
their belay loop.
Spare
Step 3
Rope
Tie a back up knot (such as a figure-
8) to the anchor. This back up knot
should be adjusted every few meters.
Step 4
The climber pulls down (with a 2:1
advantage) while the belayer pulls up
(with a 3:1 advantage).
Hauling Your Partner – Simple 3:1
Best Use Advantages
- Hauling your partner through a crux - Only requires a few meters of rope to
when passing the rope to them is set up.
not possible.
Disadvantages
- The climber cannot assist.
Step 1
If belaying from your harness, you’ll
need to escape the belay (see page
85).
Step 2
Tie a prusik on the weighted rope and
clip it to the master point with a
screwgate (depending on how you
escaped the system, you may already
have this).
Spare
Rope
Step 3 Step 6
Tie another prusik on the weighted Transfer the load onto the upper
rope as far down as you can reach. prusik by slowly unfastening the
Clip this to the loose brake strand munter-mule-overhand. Make sure
with a screwgate (Use a pulley here if you keep hold of the brake rope from
you have one). now on.
Step 4 Step 7
Connect the rope to the master point Remove the carabiner which the
with a screwgate as shown. munter-mule-overhand was tied to.
Pull in all slack.
Step 5
Tie a back up knot (such as a figure- Step 8
8) in the slack rope and attach this to You are now ready to haul. Keep one
the anchor. hand over the upper prusik to
maintain its position while pulling
upwards on the rope. Make sure the
prusik does not get sucked through
the carabiner.
Step 5
Pull
Step 4
Step 3
Step 9 Step 10
The lower prusik will eventually join Repeat steps 8 and 9 until your
the upper prusik. At this point you will partner is able to continue climbing. At
need to reset it. With the weight on this point, re-attach your belay device
the upper prusik, push the lower and remove the prusiks.
prusik down the rope as far as you
can.
This would be a good time to adjust

your back-up knot (tie a new one
before untying the old one).
Push
Prusik
Down
Hauling Your Partner – 3:1 Tips
Self-Sliding Prusik Downwards Hauling
If an ATC is available, you can add it If pulling upwards is difficult, you can
to the master point during Step 4. re-direct the rope through the anchor
to change the hauling direction. This
The ATC will not add friction, but it can will allow you to more easily put your
help to prevent the upper prusik from weight into the haul.
getting sucked through the carabiner.
The disadvantage is that it adds more
friction to the system without adding
any mechanical advantage.
Pull
Hauling Your Partner – 3:1 with Guide Mode
You can easily set up a 3:1 system if
you are belaying directly from the
anchor in guide mode.
Advantages
- Quick to set up. There is no need to
escape the belay or attach the
upper prusik.
Disadvantages
- Adds more friction to the system.
Step 1
Attach a prusik to the rope as
previously described.
Step 2
You are now ready to haul.
Hauling Your Partner – 3:1 with a Garda Hitch
A garda hitch (see page 153) is an
improvised ratchet pulley.
Advantages
- Eliminates the need for the upper
prusik.
Disadvantages
- Adds more friction to the system.
- The garda hitch is almost impossible
to release when loaded. It is
essentially a one-way hitch.
Step 1
Instead of tying a munter-mule-
overhand when escaping the system,
tie a garda hitch with a back-up as
shown.
Step 2
Attach a prusik to the rope as
previously described, and you are
ready to haul.
Hauling Your Partner – 3:1 from Your Harness
The same system can be set up from
your harness.
Harness
Advantages Belay
- Can be used with many belay Loop
setups.
- No need to escape the belay.
Disadvantages
- The weight of the climber hanging
from your harness can be
uncomfortable.
- Your range of motion is restricted –
pulling the rope and adjusting
prusiks is much more difficult.
Step 1
Tie-off your belay device to get
hands-free.
Step 2
Follow steps 2-10 of ‘Simple 3:1’
described on pages 99-101.
Hauling Your Partner – Adding More Advantage
Adding more mechanical advantage adding more prusiks, slings and
means easier but slower hauling. carabiners. Two of the most common
Endless variations are possible by systems are shown below.
aaaaaaaaaaa
5:1 System 9:1 System

A 3:1 can be converted into a 5:1 by A 3:1 can be converted into a 9:1 by
adding a sling and 2 carabiners. adding 2 carabiners and a prusik.
Hauling Your Partner – Forces, Friction and Efficiency
Forces on the Anchor Friction
Mechanical advantage hauling More friction means harder hauling.
systems place increased forces on Friction is increased by:
your anchor. It may be wise to beef it - More weight on the rope
up with more gear prior to hauling. If - More carabiners in the system
you continue hauling with something - Rope running over more surfaces
stuck (e.g: a prusik or carabiner gets
caught in a crack), the forces on the In a simple 3:1 setup, the weighted
anchor increase exponentially. Don’t rope runs around 2 carabiners. This is
force the haul if it feels like something the minimum number for a 3:1 haul,
is stuck. and therefore this system has the
least friction.
Carabiner and Pulley Efficiency Creating a 5:1 or a 9:1 may not

Pulleys significantly reduce friction in necessarily make the haul easier,
hauling systems, but are rarely taken especially if your anchor is built on the
on climbs because they are unlikely ground and the rope is zigzagging
to ever get used. A good compromise over rough rock. Not only does this
is the DMM Revolver carabiner which generate a lot of friction, it also means
features a tiny pulley. It reduces that you will have to haul five (or nine)
friction and can be used as a normal meters of rope to get your partner one
carabiner too. meter up. Depending on how far you
can reach to reset the prusiks, you
may only haul your partner a few
inches between each reset. If set up
on an awkward stance, it could
literally take hours to haul a person
half a rope length.
Hauling Your Partner – Summary

Keeping your system simple, straight is to add carabiners (and friction) to
and away from unnecessary friction set up a 9:1. Only add more
will help much more than adding mechanical advantage if you need it.
mechanical advantage to an
inefficient system. Complicated belays and loose rock
on belay ledges can add more
If you can throw some rope to your problems than a hauling setup may
partner, the ‘drop line’ techniques will solve. Consider alternative solutions
be quickest. If not, a 3:1 will be the (such as lowering your partner, or
next best option. It is often more getting them to prusik up) before you
efficient to pull harder on a 3:1 than it set up a hauling system.
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Retreating When Leading
Sometimes, a climb may prove to be The Cost of Leaving Gear Behind
too difficult, forcing you to retreat. The following methods involve leaving
your precious climbing gear behind.
This is fairly straightforward if you: When deciding on which pieces or
- Can downclimb how many to leave, remember that
- Can reach an anchor by french- the cost of climbing gear is far less
freeing, aiding (see page 65) or than the cost of being seriously
penduluming (see page 61) injured.
- Are less than half a rope length up a
pitch It is obviously very dangerous if the
lower-off piece fails. Leave behind
However, if you are more than half a solid gear and worry about replacing
rope length up a pitch, cannot it later. Depending on the location, it
downclimb or make a belay, you can may be possible to retrieve your gear
still get down. later by abseiling in from the top on a
fixed rope and then prusiking out.
Mid-Pitch Retreat with a Single Rope

This method assumes that the gear lower-off piece either by equalizing it
you lower from is very reliable. It is with another or by leaving a couple of
recommended that you back up the protection pieces below the top piece.
lllllllllllll
Step 1 Step 2
Get lowered to a place where you can Attach to the anchor with a sling.
make an anchor.
Rope To
Belayer
Step 3 Step 4
Pull a bight of rope through the Untie from the end of the rope, pull
anchor, tie a figure-8 on a bight and the rope through and re-tie back into
attach it to your belay loop. the end.
Step 5 Step 6
Remove the figure-8 on a bight and Once the slack has been taken in,
ask the belayer to take in the slack. If you can unclip your sling attachment
there is a huge amount of slack, and lower down to the belayer, or to
consider tying intermediate knots another anchor to repeat the process.
while the slack is being taken in.
If the route traverses or overhangs,
make sure to lower down with a sling
or draw attaching you to the rope.
This prevents you from getting
stranded. You’ll have to clip past any
gear that you are leaving.
Mid-Pitch Retreat with Two Ropes
If you are climbing with a lead rope possible to use a different technique
and trailing another rope (e.g: a which is slightly safer (if you protected
lightweight ‘tag’ rope for hauling or the pitch well) and means you can
adding distance to your abseils), it is leave less gear behind.
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Clip the middle of the Abseil on the tag rope This technique allows
tag rope (green in this while getting belayed you to descend up to
diagram) into your down on the lead rope. half the length of the
highest good piece of If the top piece fails, you tag rope. At this point,
gear. will be protected by the you will need to create
gear you placed on the an anchor and repeat
lead rope. Remove this the process.
protection as you
descend.
Tandem Abseiling
Tandem abseiling means two people Multiple Tandem Abseils
descending with the same device. It is If your partner is incapacitated, you
most useful when descending with an should attach them to each station
injured climber. with a releasable clip-in (such as a
length of cord tied with a munter-
A simple tandem abseil setup: mule-overhand), backed up with a
- ‘Lead’ abseiler is attached to a sling. Pre-attach this to their harness
belay device with a 60cm sling girth before you begin the descent.
hitched through their belay loop.
- Lead abseiler uses a prusik. Because of the doubled weight, you
- Second abseiler is attached to the might benefit from adding extra
same belay device with a 60cm friction to the abseil (see page 34).
sling doubled through their harness.
This allows the climbers to be
staggered slightly.
- Both climbers are attached with
separate screwgates to the belay
device. The two carabiners add
extra friction therefore making it
easier to control the descent. This
also allows each climber to be on
independent systems.
Second
Abseiler
Lead
Abseiler
Chest Harness Step 2
You could make an improvised chest Insert your partner’s arms into the
harness to keep your partner in a loops, as if you were helping them put
better position during the descent. a jacket on.
Step 1
Tie an overhand knot in the middle of
a 120cm sling.
Step 3
Clip the two ends of the sling around sling. Be careful not to descend past
the abseil rope (no knot is needed – your next abseil station – prusiking
the carabiner should run freely down back up with an extra person hanging
the ropes). An alternative is to clip the from your harness may be impossible.
chest harness to your partner’s abseil
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Rope Soloing
Rope soloing is a technique where - Setting up a top rope anchor by
you belay yourself instead of being yourself.
belayed by your partner. You can use
this technique to lead or top rope
belay. More complicated techniques Rope Solo Devices
are needed to solo an overnight Devices exist which are specifically
alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. designed for rope soloing (such as
These skills are outside the scope of the Silent Partner). Assisted braking
this book. Only the basic technique is belay devices (such as the GriGri)
described here. work to some extent, but are fairly
unreliable for rope soloing and must
Times when you may need to rope be backed up with the technique
solo include: described here anyway.
- Climbing up to reach an injured
leader after escaping the belay. In keeping with the improvised
- Assisting an injured partner who character of self-rescue, we will
cannot belay and when the easiest assume that you don’t have a rope
way out is up. solo device with you.
How To Rope Solo – The Basics

Step 1
Build a bomber, multi-directional
anchor (a bolted anchor is best when
first learning this technique) and tie
one end of the rope to it. This anchor
primarily needs to hold an upwards
pull.
You can maintain the position of the

anchor by tying a clovehitch to a
separate piece of gear above the
anchor as shown (other knots work
too, such as the alpine butterfly, but
the clovehitch is much easier to cinch
tight).
Alternatively, you can use a prusik to

maintain the anchor’s position. Be
aware that prusiks may slip when left
on an unattended, moving rope like
this. If it is critical that your anchor
stays in position, use the clovehitch
technique instead.
Step 2
Tie in to the other end of the rope.
Step 3
Stack the rope neatly so that it feeds
out from both ends. The rope will feed
out twice as fast from the anchor side
than from your tie-in side, so factor
this in when stacking.
Step 4
Pull a few meters of rope through from
the anchor side and tie a clovehitch to
a screwgate on your belay loop. This
is your primary tie-in point.
Rope Stack
Step 5
Tie another clovehitch a couple of
meters further down the rope. This is
your back-up.
Step 6
You are now ready to climb. As you
ascend, place gear on the rope
between your primary clovehitch and
the anchor.
Step 7
You’ll need to adjust your clovehitch
just before the rope comes tight. Pull
up a few meters of slack rope, tie
another clovehitch, then remove the
old one.
Remember that the extra slack from

untying will add to the distance you
can fall as well as the distance you
can climb up. Re-tie the clovehitches
as often as needed to keep yourself
safe.
Anchor Rope Stack
Alternative Rope Solo Method
The main reason to be tied into the chance of a loop getting caught on
end of the rope is so that it’s something out of reach below.
impossible to become completely
detached from the system. A good compromise is to carry the
rope with you in a backpack while
Depending on your level of climbing. Tie into the end of the rope
competence with rope soloing, you and stack it inside the backpack (your
may choose to only be attached to tie-in end is stacked at the bottom).
the system via the clovehitches. This Keep your backpack open so you can
means you have less rope hanging pull rope out easily while you climb.
from your harness and therefore less
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Rope Soloing Dangers

Rope Management Reducing Dangers
One of the main difficulties of rope You can reduce these dangers by:
soloing is judging the amount of rope - Placing good gear more frequently
needed to get to the next gear than you normally would.
placement or good stance. It’s a hard - Identifying upcoming gear
balance between having enough rope placements before you reach them.
to move up, and keeping fall potential - Making sure you don’t need to re-tie
to a minimum. your clovehitches in the middle of a
difficult move.
- Only climbing terrain you find easy.
Dynamic Belay - Having a sling pre-attached to your
Without a partner, you will not have a belay loop. This allows you to quickly
dynamic belay. This means more clip in to a piece of gear – useful for
force is applied to your gear in a fall getting your hands free to adjust
– another reason to place solid gear knots.
more frequently. - Managing your rope well. If your rope
is likely to get stuck far below, you
could carry it in coils on your harness
Stuck Ropes (this works better higher up the pitch
Another common problem (especially when there is less rope to deal with),
on lower-angle terrain, or if it’s windy) or take it with you from the start in a
is getting a loop of rope stuck on small backpack.
something out of reach below.
Top Rope Self-Belaying
Other situations exist where you may
need to self-belay up a rope above
you. For example, if the rope above
gets stuck when you’re following a
pitch. A solution would be to self-belay
to the point where the rope is stuck.
In most situations like this, the rope

remains still while you ascend. Simply
climb up and tie backup knots as you
go.
Depending on the situation, you may

reach a point where you can be put
on belay. In this case, you should that you do not create unnecessary
adjust the backup knots while the fall potential while the rope is being
belayer takes in rope. This ensures taken in.
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Prusiking up a Rope
This section explains how to ascend a - You abseiled too far

rope using prusiks, assuming that you - You abseiled the wrong way
already know how to tie one (see - Your ropes get stuck after abseiling
page 148). Prusiking is most - You fall while leading or following a
commonly needed if: steep pitch
Before You Prusik up a Rope

Only prusik up a rope which is
properly attached to an anchor
Sounds obvious, but many accidents load, even large knots can squeeze
have happened because a climber through carabiners and certain types
was ascending a ‘stuck’ rope which of chains or rings.
suddenly came free.
If you descended both ropes, you’ll
Another fatal mistake is to ascend need to ascend both too. Remember
only one rope on a double rope that prusiks work equally well on one
abseil, hoping that the knot will remain rope or two.
jammed in the anchor. When under
ooooooooo
Always back up your prusiks
Prusiks are not full-strength
attachment points.
Tie a back-up knot in any rope which

you are ascending. Clip this knot to
your belay loop and re-tie it frequently
as you ascend.
Make sure to tie the new back-up knot

before removing the old one.
How To Prusik up a Rope: The Standard Technique

- Safe to use in almost any rope- - Often more strenuous than other
ascending situation. methods, such as the slingshot (see
page 119).
Step 1
Tie a back-up knot (clovehitch,
overhand or figure-8 on a bight work
well) in the slack rope(s) beneath you.
Clip this knot to your belay loop with a
screwgate. If you are ascending two
ropes, make sure to tie back-ups in
both of them.
If you are mid-abseil, simply weight

your prusik and tie the back-up knots.
If you are abseiling without a prusik

and dangling in space, you can wrap
the rope around your leg at least
three times, tie a prusik, release the
rope from around your leg, weight the
prusik and then tie the back-up knots.
Whatever you do, make sure to keep

hold of the brake rope until you have
tied the back-up knots.
Step 2 Step 3
Attach two prusiks (classic or Girth hitch a 60cm sling to your belay
klemheist types work well) to the loop and clip it to the top prusik (if it’s
rope(s) above you. too long you can tie a knot to shorten
it). Use screwgate carabiners for all
connections. If you don’t have
enough screwgates, you can
substitute two snapgates with gates
opposite and opposed.
Step 4 Step 5
Girth hitch another sling to your belay Make a foot loop by clipping a long
loop and clip it to the bottom prusik. sling/piece of cord to the bottom
prusik.
Step 6
Now the hard work begins.
To ascend, push the top
prusik up the rope as far as
you can, then sit back in your
harness to rest your weight
on it.
Step 7
Slide the unweighted bottom
prusik up the rope and stand
in the foot loop. As you stand
up, slide the now unweighted
top prusik up the rope.
Step 8
Repeat this process, making
sure to adjust the back-up
knots as you ascend.
How To Prusik up a Rope: The Slingshot Technique

- Less strenuous to ascend the rope - You can only use this technique
than the standard technique (see when both strands of rope are within
page 117). reach. For example, you cannot
regain your high-point if you fall into
space when leading or following a
steep pitch.
- Difficult to set up mid-abseil if you
can’t un-weight the rope.
- Causes the rope to rub over the
main anchor point. Never use this
method if your rope is threaded
through webbing, a sling or any fairly
worn-out anchor point. The sawing
action of this technique can cause
the rope to cut the sling!
Step 1
Anchor yourself independently of the
abseil ropes (if you’re not already on
the ground) and remove your belay
device.
Step 2
Tie a figure-8 on a bight in both
strands of rope. Clip both of these to
your belay loop, each with their own
screwgate.
One of these will remain weighted as

you ascend, the other is your back-up
knot.
Step 3
Tie both prusiks on the side of the
rope which has the knot joining the
two ropes. Attach yourself to both
prusiks and rig a foot loop as
described on page 118.
If you anchored independently from

the abseil ropes, you will need to
detach yourself from the anchor at
this point.
Step 4
Prusik up the rope, using the same
technique described in steps 6 and 7
on the previous page.
As you pull down on one side of the

rope, the opposite side will pull up,
assuming there isn’t much friction at
the anchor point. This makes the
ascent easier, but slower, than using
the standard method.
Re-tie your back-up knot as you

ascend (on the blue rope). Make sure
to get the right knot though – do not
untie the weighted knot!
Step 5
In most cases, you’ll have to pass the
knot which joins the two ropes.
Simply re-tie your prusiks past this
knot one at a time.
How To Prusik up a Rope: Using an Extended

Belay Device
- Fairly quick to set up. - Only works if you are abseiling with
an extended belay device which has
a guide mode function.
Step 1
Fasten a prusik knot (klemheist works
well) around both ropes above your
belay device with a long piece of
5mm or 6mm cord. This will be your
foot loop. If you don’t have a long
piece of cord, just use a short one
and attach a sling to it.
Step 2
Step into the foot-loop and stand up,
taking the weight off your belay
device. Make sure to keep hold of
both brake ropes as you do this.
Step 3
Connect your belay loop to the auto-
block hole on your belay device with a
screwgate. Sit your weight onto your
now auto-blocked belay device.
Step 4
Slide the top prusik up the rope and
stand in the foot loop again to take
the weight off your belay device.
Step 5
Pull the slack rope through your belay
device and weight it again. Repeat as
necessary.
Prusiking up a Rope – Summary

Knowing how to prusik up a rope is an It is strenuous and awkward at first,
essential skill for any trad climber. and it may take a while to figure out
Having this knowledge can transform the exact lengths of cord you need.
a potential epic into a mere But with a little practise, you will soon
inconvenience. become a prusiking pro.
Essential Knots
127 Figure-8
129 Figure-8 on a Bight
130 Clovehitch
131 Overhand Loop
132 Double Bowline
134 Girth Hitch
135 Water Knot
136 Slip Knot
137 Munter Hitch
141 Munter-Mule-Overhand
142 Mule-Overhand
145 Alpine Butterfly
147 Double Fisherman’s Bend
148 Prusik Knots
153 Garda Hitch
Climb: Russian Direttissima, Eiger North Face, Switzerland. Photographer: Andy Kirkpatrick.
Essential Knots
This chapter introduces the most Dressing

commonly used knots for climbing After tying any knot, it is important
and rescue situations. Every climber that you dress it correctly. This means
should be able to recognize, tie and tightening each strand and adjusting
untie the following knots without the loops and twists so they are
having to think about it. Remember perfectly aligned. Your knots should
that you may have to tie them in look exactly like the diagrams in this
situations which are far from ideal and manual. A knot which isn’t well
you will trust your life to each knot. dressed could slip or fail.
Each knot has multiple uses and, in Webbing and Cord

most cases, there are many knots Webbing (tape) is flat. Cord and ropes
you could tie to achieve the same are round. Knots which are designed
result. Before choosing a knot, for flat webbing may be useless when
consider the following. In order of tied with rope and vice versa. Make
importance: sure you understand what material
your knot is for.
1) Is it suitable for the intended use?
2) Could it slip or roll? Diameter, Flexibility and Surface
3) Is it easy to untie or adjust? Friction
The examples given in this manual
assume that you are tying identical
sections of cord, rope or webbing
tttttttttttttttt
VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving > Essential Knots 126
together, except of course for prusiks. line to a 10.2mm rope with the same
Knots work best when every rope knot will probably result in that knot
involved is of the same diameter, falling apart. Likewise, a knot joining
flexibility, elasticity and surface an old, stiff static rope to a slick,
friction. flexible dynamic rope is likely to slip,
even if they are the same diameter. A
Minor differences are fine. For simple alternative for joining ropes or
example, tying a 9.5mm and a cord of different materials or
10.2mm dynamic rope end-to-end for diameters is to tie a figure-8 loop in
abseiling is safe. But tying a 6mm tag the end of each and clip them
a together with a carabiner.
Figure-8 Tie In
Uses
The figure-8 is widely accepted as
being the safest knot to tie-in with.

Make a loop about a You should end up with Pass the end of the rope
meter from the end of an '8'. Make sure the through both of the two
the rope. Wrap the end knot is around 90cm points on the front
of the rope around the from the end of the centre of your harness
base of the loop, then rope (the exact length – the same ones your
push the end through varies with ropes of belay loop runs through.
as shown. different diameters). It is important that the
rope goes through your
harness in exactly the
same way as your belay
loop does.
~90cm
Use the end of the Continue following the Make sure the end of the
rope to re-trace the twists until you end up rope is around 25cm
figure-8. Follow the back at the start of the long. If it is shorter, you'll
twists of the rope knot. have to untie and start
starting from where it again. After this, you will
joins your harness. Pull the whole thing need to tie a stopper
tight. knot. Loop the short
section of rope around
the main length.
25
cm

Do this twice, with the Push the end of the Pull this tight too (make
second loop closer to rope through these two sure it's pushed right up
you than the first. loops, away from you. to your figure-8 knot).
Figure-8 on a Bight
Uses
- Attaching the rope to an anchor. - Creating a master point in a
cordelette or sling.

Take a bight of rope Push the end of the Pull it tight.
and form an ‘8’ shape rope through the top
as shown. part of the 8.
Stopper Knot
When tying a figure-8 in the end of a
rope, make sure to add a stopper
knot.
Warning!
Figure-8’s should only be end-loaded
(pulled along the line of the knot).
If you load the loop in two opposing

directions, the knot can roll over itself
and lose strength or fail completely.
For this reason, you should never use
the figure-8 to join ropes for abseiling.
Tying into the Middle of the Rope
You can use a variation of the figure-8
to tie into the middle of a rope.
Follow steps 1-5 described on pages

127-128, but use a bight of rope
instead. Clip the final loop into your
belay loop to complete the knot.
Clovehitch
Uses
- Attaching yourself to the anchor. - Attaching ropes, cord or slings to
carabiners.
Step 1
Make two identical loops in the rope.
Put the rear loop over the top of the
front loop.
Step 2
Clip a screwgate carabiner (never use
a snapgate carabiner) through these
two loops.
Step 3
Pull it tight and fasten the screwgate.
Overhand Loop
Uses
- Creating a master point in a
cordelette or sling.
Step 1 Step 2
Clip the sling to both bolts and pull the Pull the bottom of the sling around to
strands down so they are equal. form a loop.
Step 3 Step 4
Push the end of the sling through the This forms two small loops beneath
loop as shown. Pull the knot tight. the overhand knot. Clip a screwgate
through both of these loops to form
the central point.
The same knot can be used to equalize
three or more pieces.
Double Bowline
Uses
- Securing the end of a rope around a - Could also be used to tie the rope to
large object such as a tree. your harness.
Step 1
Wrap the end of the rope
around a tree or other
suitable object. Form two
loops in the rope as shown.
Step 2
Push the end of the rope up
through the two loops and
around the back of the
main strand. Then push the
end of the rope back down
through the loops.
Step 3
Pass the end around the
back of the knot and push it
up through the new loop as
shown.
Step 4
The double bowline is now
tied, but needs a stopper
knot to be complete. Pass
the end of the rope around
the main strand twice.
Step 5
Finish the stopper knot to
complete the double
bowline.
Warning!
The double bowline is great
for tying around a tree or
boulder as part of a top-
rope anchor.
Some climbers also use the

double bowline for tying in
because it’s easy to untie
after multiple falls. However,
it has been known to untie
itself, especially if the rope
is stiff. This is due to lots of
movement in the rope as
you climb. The figure-8 is
recommended as a much
safer alternative for tying
into your harness.
Girth Hitch (Lark’s Foot)
Uses
- Attaching slings to your belay loop. - Fastening a sling around a tree.
- Attaching slings together. - Connecting a sling to a carabiner
without opening the gate.
Step 1 Step 2
Feed a sling through your belay loop. Put one end of the sling through the
other.
Step 3 Strop Bend

Pull it tight. You can also link two slings together
using these same steps.
Arrange the girth hitch as shown

below to create a strop bend. This is
basically a neater version of the girth
hitch.
Water (Tape) Knot
Uses
- Joining flat or tubular nylon webbing
of equal width.
Step 1
Tie a loose overhand knot near one
end of the webbing.
Step 2
Thread the other end into the knot as
shown.
Step 3
Retrace the original knot, making sure
it lies flat at all times.
Step 4
Cinch the knot tight. The tails should
be at least 10cm long.
Warnings!
* The water knot should never be * The water knot can untie itself over
used to join: time with repeated loading and
- Dyneema webbing unloading. Make sure the knot is tight
- Any webbing of unequal width and the tails are at least 10cm long
- Rope/cord to webbing each time you use it.
In these cases, the knot is very weak * Some climbers duck-tape the tails to
and prone to slipping. keep them neat and to help prevent
creeping. If you do this, leave the
ends of the webbing in view so you
can see them.
Slip Knot
Uses
- Tying off pitons, tree stumps or
other poor gear in order to reduce
leverage.
Step 1 Step 2
Form a loop in a sling (thin Dyneema Pull a bight through this loop as
works better than nylon). shown.
Step 3 Step 4
Slip this bight over the piece of gear. Cinch it tight and push it as close to
the rock as possible. This reduces
leverage on the piece, therefore
making it a stronger piece of
protection.
Munter Hitch
Uses Note
- Belaying without a belay device. The munter hitch tends to 'kink' the
- Abseiling without a belay device. rope when used for abseiling or
- Creating a releasable knot when belaying. It can also cause slight
escaping the belay. abrasion to the rope's sheath,
especially if the leader falls. It is a
useful skill to know, but is not intended
for long-term use.
Step 1 Step 2
Clip the rope through a large, pear- Twist a loop in the climber's end of
shaped (HMS) screwgate. Smaller the rope as shown.
screwgates work too, but will make
belaying more difficult.
Rope Rope
to to
Climber Climber
Step 3 Step 4
Clip the loop into the screwgate. Clip the carabiner to your belay loop
and fasten the screwgate.
Rope
to
Climber
Step 5 Warning!
Test the knot by pulling tight on either Make sure the brake strand is on the
end of the rope. The knot should flip 'spine' of the screwgate.
through the carabiner easily both
ways. If the brake strand is on the 'gate'
side, it could rub against the gate and
potentially open it.
Rope Rope
to to
Climber Climber
Belaying with a Munter Hitch

The main difference when belaying
with a munter hitch (as oppose to an
ATC) is that you 'lock-off' in the
opposite direction (see next page).
This goes against a climber's natural
reaction, so make sure to practise this
technique well before using it.
When bringing up the second on a

munter hitch, it's easier to belay
directly from the anchor (if your
anchor setup allows), rather than from
your harness.
Whichever method you choose, you

must keep hold of the brake rope at
all times.
Rope
to
Climber
To Lock Off To Give Slack
The munter hitch creates a lot of Hold the brake rope loosely and pull
friction. Depending on the situation through slack rope, similar to giving
(rope thickness, weight of climber, slack with an ATC.
rope drag, etc..), it can be locked off in
any direction. However, for maximum Rope
friction, you must hold the brake rope to
forward (so that both strands of rope Climber
are parallel to each other).
Rope
to 100% Friction
Climber at 0 Degrees
75% Friction
at 180 Degrees
To Take In To Lower
Pull the brake rope so that the knot Lock the rope off in the maximum
'flips'. friction position. Slowly move the rope
back and lower as you would with an
More rope can now be taken in by ATC. It can be tricky to find the 'sweet
continuing to pull rope through spot', so make sure to move position
forwards. slowly.
Belaying with a Munter Hitch – Top Tips
When using a small diameter rope, it's To belay the second with half ropes,
worth using two carabiners to you can treat them as one and tie
increase belay friction. them together in the same munter
hitch.
If you need to pull one rope through To lead belay with half ropes, you'll
faster than the other, you should use need to use two separate screwgates
two separate knots instead. with a munter hitch on each. This can
be difficult at first, especially giving
slack on one rope while
simultaneously taking in the other.
Practice well before you use this
technique.
Munter-Mule-Overhand
Uses
- Tying off a munter hitch when
belaying or escaping the system.
Step 1 Step 3
Form a loop in the brake-strand of Pull the knot tight, either by easing
rope. the climber's weight onto the rope if
they are weighting it, or by pulling on
Step 2 the climber's strand of rope if they're
Feed a bight of the brake rope around not weighting it. This is now a munter-
the climber's rope and through the mule, which is tied-off, but not
loop as shown. backed-up.
Rope
To
Climber
Step 4 Step 5
To complete the knot, you must back Then feed it back through as shown.
it up. One way of doing this is to tie an
overhand around the climber's strand Step 6
of rope. To start, wrap the loop A carabiner completes the hands-free
around the back of the rope. munter-mule-overhand.
To Release
Unfasten the overhand knot. Then pull
forwards on the brake strand of rope
until the knot pops free.
If the rope is weighted, you can

expect a few centimetres of rope to
slip through the munter hitch. Prepare
for this by holding the brake strand
tight with both hands.
Tying Off a Belay Device – The Mule Overhand

Times when you may need to have
both hands free when using an ATC
include:
- Switching gear on a multi-pitch
- Sorting out a rope tangle when
belaying
- Passing a knot when abseiling
- Escaping the belay in an emergency
situation
In situations where the rope isn't

weighted, a simple overhand knot
backed up to your belay loop (as If there is any chance of this
shown below) will work. However, if happening, you should instead use
the rope becomes weighted when the mule-overhand method (described
using this method (e.g; if the leader on the following pages). This allows
falls), it will be almost impossible to you to tie-off your belay device while
release the tie-off. the leader is weighting the rope, and
also release the tie-off when it's
weighted.
Step 1 Step 2
Pass a loop of the slack rope through Pass a loop from the opposite side
your screwgate carabiner with one through the first loop so that a mule
hand while keeping hold of the rope knot is formed around the spine of the
with your brake hand. carabiner.
This can be difficult when heavily Do not tie this knot around the gate of
weighted – you’ll need to pinch the the carabiner.
rope tight.
Step 3 Step 4
Make sure the second loop is around Tie an overhand knot around the
60cm long. Pull it tight. tensioned rope as shown.
Step 5 Step 6 – Releasing Under Load
A carabiner completes the hands-free To release the tie-off with the rope
mule-overhand knot. loaded, first untie the overhand knot.
Then holding the slack rope securely
with both hands, simply pull down to
release the mule knot.
You should be ready to expect a few

centimetres of rope to slip through.
Keep a firm grip so you do not lose
control of the belay device. You can
now belay or lower the climber as
normal.
Top Tips
* If you are belaying with two ropes,
simply treat them as one rope and
follow the same steps.
* Make sure to communicate with your

partner so they know not to continue
climbing while tied-off.
Alpine Butterfly
Uses
- Equalizing a two-bolt belay.
- Isolating a damaged section of rope.
- Forming a fixed loop in the middle of
a rope. This provides a clip-in point
which can be loaded in 2 or 3
directions.

Form a loop in the rope. Twist the loop so it Push the now lower loop
becomes two loops. through the original first
Then pull the top of the loop.
upper loop behind and
underneath the line of
the rope.
Step 4 View From Front View From Back

Pull it tight.
Alternative Method
An alternative way to tie the alpine
butterfly is to wrap it around your
hand three times as shown.
Pull the top wrap down over the other

two, then back up behind them.
Equalizing a Two-Bolt Belay

Tie a large-looped alpine butterfly to
one screwgate and a clovehitch to the
other.
You can adjust the size of the loop

once the alpine butterfly is tied. Then
adjust the clovehitch to fine tune the
equalization.
Isolating a Damaged Section

This is useful when using your rope
as a fixed line or in a situation where
the rope will not pass through any
carabiners.
Obviously, you will not be able to lead

climb with a knot in your rope!
Double Fisherman’s Bend
Uses
- Tying two ends of cord together to
make a prusik or cordelette.
Spare
Step 1 Cord
Loop one end of the cord around
twice as shown to create two loops.
Then push the end through these
loops.
Step 2
Pull it tight and do the same with the
other end of the cord.
Step 3
Pull it all tight so that the two knots
jam together. Make sure the tails are
at least 10 times the diameter of the
cord (e.g: 5cm tails for a 5mm prusik
cord).
Triple Fisherman's Bend

Add an extra coil to make a triple
fisherman’s bend.
Some slippery cords (such as

dyneema) require a triple so they
don’t slide apart under load – check
the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Prusik Knots: Different Types Explained
A prusik (also known as a friction
hitch) is a short piece of cord which
can be wrapped around your climbing
rope to add friction. They can slide up
and down easily, but lock around the
rope when weighted.
Prusiks are most commonly used for

abseiling but are also incredibly useful
in a variety of emergency situations
such as ascending a rope or
escaping the system.
Four types of prusik knot are

described on the following pages:
- Classic
- Autoblock (French)
- Klemheist
- Bachmann
Prusik Cords: Size and Material

Size Material
The diameter of your cord should be Prusiks are usually made out of nylon
60% to 80% of the rope’s diameter, cord, tied together with a double
whether you are using the prusik on fisherman's bend.
one rope or two.
If the cord is too stiff, it won’t lock
If you use a cord that is too thin, it will properly around the rope. The
cinch tight around the rope when stiffness may also make it difficult to
weighted and be difficult to move create the knot itself. Test your cord
freely. If you use a cord that is too before you take it climbing so you can
thick, it won’t have enough friction to be sure that it works.
lock up when you need it to.
If you are planning to use your prusiks
In general, 6mm cord works well on frequently, you should consider
10mm ropes, whereas 5mm cord is buying some pre-sewn prusik loops.
better for 8mm ropes. These come in a variety of forms,
either without a bulky knot or with the
The cord length should be 1.2m - knot sewn together and covered by a
1.5m. plastic sleeve.
Prusik Types: The Classic Prusik
Advantages Best Uses
- Very secure when loaded. - In situations where you don’t need
- Locks in both directions. to keep sliding the prusik (e.g;
escaping the system).
Disadvantages
- Often difficult to release when tightly
loaded.
Step 1 Step 2
Pass the cord around the rope and Pass the cord around the rope and
through itself as shown, making sure through itself again.
the double fisherman’s bend is at the
end.
Step 3 Step 4
Make at least three wraps around the Weight the knot in either direction to
rope, pull the cord tight and clip a lock it. Pinch the knot to loosen it. This
carabiner through the loop. allows you to move it up or down the
rope. If the knot gets stuck, you can
Make sure the knot is neat. push some cord in from the center of
the knot to loosen it.
Prusik Types: The Autoblock (French)
- Easy to tie and untie. - As a back-up when abseiling.
- Can be released under load.
Disadvantages
- Tends to slip when used to ascend
ropes.
Step 1
Wrap the prusik neatly around the
rope a few times as shown.
Step 2
Clip the ends together with a
carabiner. More wraps will
create more friction around the
ropes, though four wraps are
generally enough.
Make sure the autoblock is neat

and the double fisherman's
bend is away from the ropes.
Step 3
Pinch the knot to loosen it. This
allows you to move it down the rope.
Weight the knot to lock it. The

autoblock locks in both directions, but
the double fisherman's bend tends to
wrap itself into the prusik when the
direction is switched, making it much
less effective.
Prusik Types: The Klemheist Knot
- Easy to release after being loaded. - Ascending a rope.
- Can be tied with webbing.
Disadvantages
- Only works in one direction.
Step 1
Wrap the prusik neatly around the
rope a few times as shown.
Step 2
Pass the end of the cord through the
loop.
Step 3
Attach a carabiner.
Weight the knot downwards to lock it,

or push it upwards to release.
Prusik Types: The Bachmann Knot
- Easy to operate when wearing Ascending ropes when wearing bulky
gloves. gloves.
Disadvantages
- Not good on icy or slick ropes.
- Doesn’t grip as well as other types
of prusik.
Step 1 Step 2
Clip the cord through a large Wrap the cord around the rope,
carabiner. This will be the ‘handle’ feeding it through the carabiner each
carabiner. time. Keep the wraps snug to each
other.
Step 3 Step 4
Allow the end of the cord to hang Push the handle carabiner up the
down through the carabiner. Clip your rope to release the knot. Weight the
load to this end. Do not clip your load lower carabiner to lock it.
to the carabiner which functions as
the handle – this will release the
knot!
Prusik Cord Tips
* Prusiks are not full-strength * Make sure not to wrap the double
attachment points. Always have a fisherman’s bend into any friction
back-up so you’re attached to the hitch. This will greatly decrease the
rope ‘properly’. knot’s effectiveness.
* The number of wraps should be * If using prusiks in conditions where

increased or decreased depending on they might fail (e.g; prusiking up a wet
the cord stiffness, cord diameter and or icy rope), it’s better to use two
moisture conditions, with three wraps different types of prusik (and a full
as a minimum. Before using any strength back-up, of course). If
prusik knot, test it to see if it grips and conditions exist to cause one to slip
releases well. or fail, the likelihood is that the other
prusik would not fail under the same
* If you don’t have a prusik cord, you conditions.
can use a sling instead. Slings don’t
work quite as well but it’ll help you get * Check your prusik cord for wear and
out of a tricky situation. A narrow tear regularly. Make sure the double
nylon sling is better than Dyneema fisherman’s bend isn’t slipping and
(Spectra). Don’t use a sling for the cord isn’t abraded. When it’s
anything except a prusik after using it looking worn, retire it and get a new
once as a prusik. one – cord is cheap.
Garda Hitch (Alpine Clutch)

The garda hitch uses two parallel Uses
carabiners to create a system where - As an improvised ratchet pulley for
a loaded rope can move in one hauling.
direction but not the other.
Step 1
Secure two D-shaped carabiners
together with a girth hitch so they lie
parallel with the gates on the same
side.
Clip the rope through Clip this loop through the Pull the loop back so it
both carabiners. left carabiner and fasten sits around the spine of
the screwgates. the carabiners.
Step 3
Form a loop in the non-
loaded strand as shown.
Loaded
Strand
Step 6 Warning!
The garda hitch is now complete. You * The garda hitch is a one-direction
will be able to pull rope through in one knot – it cannot be released under
direction only. Make sure you have it load. Be careful how you employ it.
the right way around.
* It’s vital that you use D-shaped
carabiners. A garda hitch tied on HMS
or oval carabiners is prone to slipping
down which causes the knot to fail.
* You must girth hitch the two

carabiners together as shown in step
1. If you simply clip the carabiners
through a sling or another carabiner,
the garda hitch will not function
Pull Pull correctly.
Up Down
Loaded
Strand
Other VDiff Titles
Having the knowledge of safe

climbing skills is the lightest and most
useful equipment you can take on any
climb.
Learn before you go. Don’t actually Available as paperbacks or e-books.

take these books up there with you! For more information, visit:
www.vdiffclimbing.com

Index
Abseiling, 32-55 Equalizing anchors, 14-16
bad anchors, 53-55 Equalizing figure-8 knot, 27-28
damaged ropes, 39-40 Escaping the belay, 85-95
extended belay device, 35 Etriers, 65
increasing friction, 34-37 Exhaustion, 10
past a knot, 41-45 Extended belay device, 35
pendulums, 45-46
stuck ropes, 47-52 Figure-8 knot, 127-130
tandem abseiling, 111-112 Freesoloing, 11
without a belay device, 37-38 French-free, 65
Accident prevention, 6-11 French prusik, 150
Aid climbing, 64-69 Friction hitches, 148-153
Alpine butterfly knot, 145-146
Alpine clutch, see Garda hitch Garda hitch, 72, 104, 153-154
Anchor(s), 12-31 Girth hitch, 134
bad anchors, 53-55 Guide mode, 24, 95, 98, 103
equalizing, 14-16
minimal gear, 29-30 Hauling,
multi-directional, 86, 113 equipment, 70
quad anchor, 22-25 forces, friction and efficiency, 107
rope anchors, 26-28 a haulbag, 69-73
self-equalizing, 16-25 your partner, 96-107
sliding-X, 17-21
top rope, 25 Klemheist prusik, 151
Autoblock prusik, 150 Knots, 124-154
alpine butterfly, 145-146
Bachmann prusik, 152 clovehitch, 130
Back roping, 60-61 double bowline, 132-133
Belaying without a device, 137-140 double fisherman’s bend, 147
equalizing figure-8, 27-28
Carabiner brake, 37-38 figure-8, 127-130
Chest harness, 112 garda hitch, 72, 104, 153-154
Classic prusik, 149 girth hitch, 134
Clovehitch, 130 mule-overhand, 142-144
Competence, 10 munter hitch, 137-140
Confidence, 10 munter-mule-overhand, 141-142
Cordelette, 14-15, 131-132 overhand, 131-132
Core-shot rope, 39 prusiks (friction hitches),
autoblock, 150
Daisy chain, 65 Bachmann, 152
Decision making, 8-9 classic, 149
Double bowline, 132-133 klemheist, 151
Double fisherman’s bend, 147 sliding-X, 17-21
Downclimbing, 53 slip knot, 136
Drop-line hauling, 97-98 triple fisherman’s bend, 147

water knot, 135 Rock quality, 59
Rope anchors, 26-28
Lark's foot, 134 Rope soloing, 113-116
Lead skills, 56-80 Runout routes, 59-61
Loose rock, 55, 58-59
Self-equalizing anchors, 16-25
Mechanical advantage, 96 Self-rescue, 82-122
Micro Traxion, 70, 80 belay escape, 85-95
Mule overhand knot, 142-144 hauling your partner, 96-107
Munter hitch, 137-140 prusiking, 116-122
Munter-mule-overhand, 141-142 retreating mid-pitch, 108-110
rope soloing, 113-116
Overhand loop, 131-132 tandem abseiling, 111-112
Simul climbing, 73-80
Pendulum(s) Sliding-X, 17-21
abseils, 45-46 Slip knot, 136
following, 62-64
leading, 61-62 Tandem abseiling, 111-112
Piton tie-off, 136 Tape knot, 135
Progress-capture devices, 78-80 Tension traverse, 61-64
Prusik cord, 148 Top rope, 25
Prusik knots, 148-153 Triple fisherman’s bend, 147
Prusiking, 116-122 Tying off a belay device, 142-144
aid pitches, 67-69 Tying into the middle of a rope, 130
stuck abseil ropes, 47-52
Unroping, 77
Quad anchor, 22-25
Water knot, 135
Retreating mid-pitch, 108-110
Risk, 10 Z-abseil, 36-37

VDiff TheTradClimbersGuideToProblemSolving E Book June2019

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VDiff TheTradClimbersGuideToProblemSolving E Book June2019

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The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving

Writer and illustrator: Neil Chelton

Warning: Climbing is Dangerous

This book is designed to be supplemented with practical instruction from qualified

In this book Other names

However, this book alone is of limited See you out there,

VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving 4

124 Essential Knots

VDiff > The Trad Climber’s Guide To Problem Solving 5

The vast majority of climbing My chosen route was in direct

Some of the skills can be practised at However you choose to practise,

Partner Fixed rope

26 Building Anchors with the Rope

29 Building Anchors with Minimal Gear

In Trad Climbing Basics, we setups. The main problem with the

These concepts are easier to

The same is true for dynamic rope.

~20% ~30% ~50% ~25% ~50% ~25%

Getting perfect equalization is not so However, in more complicated belay

If the same two micro nuts were ~50% ~50%

The following arrangement uses one

* Provides two independent

* On multi-pitch routes where each Best Situation To Use The Quad

How To Tie the Quad Anchor

Make sure the knots are fairly even

If the strength of your anchor points

If belaying in guide mode, attach your

If you clip into all four, you

The Quad Anchor – Equalizing 3 or 4 Anchor Points

You will need to re-tie the extension-

Do the same with the other side to

In this case, consider equalizing the

The Quad Anchor – Setting Up a Top Rope

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3

Rope Anchors – Simple Methods

Tying an alpine butterfly knot as still has the same disadvantages as

You can belay in guide mode directly

Top Tip – Minor Adjustments

If you need to shorten a sling more,

There isn’t a ‘best’ method of limitations of a wide range of anchor

37 Abseiling without a Device

39 Abseiling with Damaged Ropes

41 Abseiling Past a Knot

47 Stuck Abseil Ropes

53 Descending from Bad Anchors and Loose Rock

Whether you're abseiling down a following techniques will help you

Increasing Friction – Simple Methods

Try it out both ways to see which

You can use a prusik in conjunction

This puts your belay device further

This also enables you to attach your

Alternatively, you can girth hitch a

It's better to use thicker (and more

Abseiling Without a Belay Device

Dropping your belay device at the top You Will Need:

Then clip two snapgates to the

Follow the same safety precautions

Watch the setup as the first climber

If you are abseiling without a prusik

If your belay device jams into the

Attach this to your belay loop with a

Step 3 – Add Prusik

Abseil down a short amount to allow