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By 207_gti, February 21, 2012 in Peugeot General Discussion Forum in UAE
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P0299 low boost turbo or super charge limp mode – How to diagnose
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Peugeot, BMW, Audi, Volkswagen, Skoda, Opel, Dodge, Land Rover
By Irfansamaha
So I’ve gotten quite a few questions from people all over the place about having turbo issues etc.
Carnity Star
One thing to keep in mind about these motors is that “limp mode” (when the ECU “disables” the turbo)
is not always turbo related. Limp mode is there to protect the engine from damage. Ford 2010
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99 posts A few (but not all) reasons as to why the car could go into limp mode: 13,500.00 AED

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In this guide a will touch on a number of reasons as to why the car can go into limp mode; but mainly I
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will focus on things related directly to the turbo, how to diagnose the issue, and how to solve them. The
majority of this text will be my own, but I will also include text and images that has been provided by E- By Instaglory
tuners.

A turbo is a great way to get more power out of a car; but when the car goes into limp mode you soon
realize how big of a difference that turbo makes. When the problem persists, it can become very Dodge Charger 2016
frustrating for the owner, not to mention the thousands it will cost to replace the turbo. So to know what
46,000.00 AED
to look out for and how to diagnose the system in order to determine if the turbo is in fact in need of
replacement is absolutely vital. By Klasscars

In the case of the PSA/BMW 1.6T motor, it is best to become familiar how the turbocharging system
works. So first, Let’s get some basic knowledge of it.

How it all fits together

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A turbo charger is a very simple device. There are 2 sides to it, the exhaust side, and the compressor
Important Information side (which is where the incoming “fresh” air goes into the turbo). Each side has a “propeller” and they   I accept 16
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When the exhaust gasses start to turn the exhaust propeller, the propeller on the compressor side has
By Gaurav
to turn too. It is this turning of the propeller at very high speeds that compresses the air. The faster it Started April 20
turns, the more “boost” (compression of air) it creates.

The problem is, that if the amount if compression cannot be controlled, the turbo will just continue
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adding more and more compression to the incoming air, until the point that the engine cannot handle it
anymore; in which case the engine will sustain damage.
AWD vs. 4WD: What's the 6
So, to control the amount of compression, a “wastegate” is used. A wastegate is simply a valve that Difference?
directs more or less exhaust gases to the exhaust propeller. By Chirag S.
Started Sunday at 09:17 AM
Closed wastegate = more exhaust gas = more compression,
Vibration and Noise @ 75-105 8
Open wastegate = less exhaust gas = less compression. Kms Speed
By Sidshk
There are two types of wastegates, an internal (is part of the turbo) and an external wastegate
Started Sunday at 10:15 AM
(separate from the turbo). In the case of this particular turbo, an internal wastegate is used.
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Essentially, think of the wastegate as the “accelerator pedal” of the turbo.
By desertdude
A wastegate is still a mechanical part (as is the turbo), but you still need something that will control the Started Yesterday at 07:31
AM
wastegate. For this there is an “actuator”.

The actuator is connected to the wastegate via the actuator rod and wastegate arm. Newbie/Fewbie drive 2
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Two nuts on the rod, on either side of the wastegate arm are what hold it in place.
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The rod simply pushes (opens the wastegate) or pulls (closes the wastegate). But again, the actuator
too is only a mechanical part; so you still need something that can control it. POPULAR CONTRIBUTORS

In the case of this particular turbo, PSA/BMW does things in a bit of an unconventional manner. Week Month Year All Time

Usually it’s the actual boost that acts on the actuator. However, in this case, its vacuum that acts on it.
Frederic
Important Information For this vacuum to be generated there is a vacuum pump. Essentially it is the vacuum pump that 1  142
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 makes the actuator rod either pull or push the wastegate. However, again, the vacuum pump is also 2 Brette
 110
mechanical. So, in between the vacuum pump and actuator comes the Boost Control Valve (BCV).

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The BCV is an electronic valve that is connected to the ECU and it is this valve that will determine how
much of the vacuum is sent to the actuator, and how much of it will be directed away.

More vacuum = actuator rod pulls = wastegate closes = more boost

Less vacuum = actuator rod pushes = wastegate opens = less boost

The BCV is a very important part of the system because if the vacuum pump was just directly
connected to the actuator, the ECU will have no way of controlling the amount of boost produced, and
eventually the engine will be damaged.

So that is how the system works at producing boost. But there is still two more essential pieces to the
puzzle, the sensors and the diverter valve, and another valve that isn’t generally associated with turbos,
but also plays a part in this particular case

There are various sensors that calculate many different things. But for the purposes of this article I will
only cover some of them.

There are oxygen sensors that calculate how much oxygen is present, so that the ECU will know how
much petrol is needed. Then there is a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and a MAP (Manifold Absolute
Pressure) sensor. All of these are simply there to calculate how much air is flowing into the engine and
at what pressure the air is, etc. And based on these readings the ECU then calculates how much fuel
should be delivered and what kind of boost should be produced.

Next is the Diverter Valve. If the turbo is producing boost, and you take your foot off of the accelerator
pedal, there will still be some boost in the intake system. When you take your foot off of the accelerator
pedal, the throttle plate closes; so the excess boost has nowhere to go other than back to the turbo. If,
at this point, the pressurized air cannot be redirected before it reaches the turbo, it can eventually
destroy the turbo. This is because a propeller is aerodynamically designed to only be turned in one
direction. If the pressurized air is to enter the turbo while the throttle plate is closed, the air will try and
force the compressor propeller to turn in the opposite direction of which it was designed to turn. The
reason this can cause turbo damage is because the exhaust gases will be turning the exhaust propeller
in the correct direction, but then the unwanted boost will try to turn the compressor propeller in the
incorrect direction; which places a huge amount of twisting force on the shaft which connects the two
propellers.

So, a mechanism is needed to release this excess boost before it gets to the turbo; which is known as
the Diverter Valve (DV). This is sometimes also referred to as a “Blow Off Valve” (BOV). There is,
technically, one key difference between the two. Both have the same purpose (to release excess boost
when the throttle plate is closed), but a BOV releases the boost to the atmosphere (which gives the
loud “PSSSHH” sound associated with turbocharged engines), whereas a DV diverts the excess boost
back into the intake pipe (between the air filter and turbo).

And that’s it; that is how the entire system works. Not entirely AS complicated as you might have
thought, huh?

Lastly is the Canister Depollution Valve. This is also an electro valve, and is part of the intake manifold
pipe. The function of this valve is to be open when boost isn’t needed, and to be closed when boost is
needed. When it is open, it allows petrol fumes from the petrol tank to pass through to the intake
manifold. If the valve remains open when boost is needed, the boost will be directed to the petrol tank,
instead of reaching the intake manifold where it is needed.

Diagnosing problems

So, only now that we have a better understanding of the system as a whole will we know how to test
the different components to see where the problem lies.

Diagnostics software

Perhaps the most important part is getting a diagnostics cable. This is to connect to the diagnostics port
Important Information of the car to find out what error code has caused the car to go into limp mode.  I accept
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 You will need an ELM327 OBD-II usb cable, and some software on a Windows-based laptop.

There is plenty of software out there, but a good and free bit of software to check and clear fault codes
is EasyOBD.

When the check engine light comes on, its an indication that there is some sort of malfunction, and the
ECU will record a certain code which helps to identify what kind of problem it is. In the case of turbo
trouble, the most common codes will be P2622 and P0299, which means “turbocharger underboost”
and “turbocharger boost not detected”. There are plenty of other codes that will put the car into limp
mode, but these two are the most important in determining whether or not there is a problem with the
actual turbo.

Another common fault code is that there is an air leak. In which case you should inspect all the turbo
hoses and pipes, and perhaps even the intercooler.

In order to read the fault codes, plug the serial end of the cable in to the diagnostics port of the car and
the USB side into the computer. Put the key into the ignition and just turn it to the first click (do not start
the engine). Then, on the computer software, click on the button to make a connection with the ECU,
and then go into the fault codes section.

Testing the components

We’ll start off with the easy ones and work our way through the entire system. I will break down all the
parts into a new section to make it easier to follow.

Diverter Valve

From the factory the diverter valve is manufactured to withstand 1 bar (14 psi) of pressure. On a stock
setup this is the pressure that the turbo supplies. However, the blow-off valve still fails. Inside it has a
rubber membrane, which at some point will tear. The company that makes the blow-off valve is called
Pierburg, and they make blow off valves for VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group) and these blow-off valves
can be found in a range of VW, Audi, Skoda and Seat models. The blow-off valve in the VAG cars are
manufactured to withstand pressures higher than 1 bar, which makes it perfect for the problem. Now
the entire VAG unit will not fit our setup, but all we need are the internals. So, all you need to do is to go
to VW and purchase the blow-off valve. Then you just have to swap out the VAG unit's internals with
that of the Peugeot's.

In some cases the internals don’t quite work with the stock diverter valve housing. In which case you
would have to use the entire VAG unit, and to fit it to the turbo unit. To do this you would have to
remove the metal clips in the bolt holes, and also make the bolt holes on the diverter valve slightly
larger. I recommend also that you put a small washer between the DV housing and the bolt head to
ensure that the bolts hold tight.

Turbo

Remove the intake pipe that goes to the turbo. Look inside the turbo to see if the propeller blades are
still ok.

Important Information
They should all look the same and have no damage on them. It is normal to sometimes have very  I accept
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SLIGHT damage on one or two blades; but remember that turbo blades need to be perfect to work
 best.

Turn the propeller. If it cannot turn, it means that the propeller(s) have seized and a new turbo will be
needed.

Next, VERY GENTLY try to wiggle the propeller up and down, side to side, in and out. If there is no
movement the shaft is still perfectly fine and is another good indication that the turbo does not need
replacing.

Actuator rod

In order to inspect the actuator rod, you will need to remove the Oxygen sensor and heatshields to
properly see it. Sometimes, the nuts that hold the actuator rod and wastegate arm together come loose
or even fall off.

Check to see if the wastegate arm is in the correct place on the actuator rod. The nut closest to the
actuator should be 14 complete turns from where the thread ends on the side closest to the actuator.

While the nuts are loose, check the movement of the wastegate arm. You should be able to move it
quite easily along the actuator arm. If there is no movement the wastegate is faulty and will require a
new turbo.

BE CAREFUL WHEN TIGHTENING THE NUTS AGAIN. Make sure that they are tight, but do not use
TOO MUCH force, as this could bend the wastegate arm, and will just add a whole new headache for
you.

If all seems well, tighten the nuts and move on to check the movement of the actuator. With your right
hand, place your thumb on the actuator, and use your index and middle finger on the round bit on the
actuator arm. Move the round bit towards the actuator. There should be roughly 1cm of movement. If
there isn’t, either the actuator is faulty and will require a whole new turbo assembly, unless you can get
a used actuator from somewhere.

Boost control valve

As I mentioned earlier, PSA/BMW have done the turbocharging thing in a bit of an unconventional
manner. Usually when a car is off, the wastegate would be closed, and will open when the car is
switched on. In this case, however, the wastegate is open when the car is off, and will close when the
car is switched on. A simple way to test the BCV is with a syringe. Pull the piston of the syringe (but
don’t pull it completely out). Now, remove the hose from the actuator, and place the syringe nozzle
inside of it. When you switch on the car (i.e. let the engine run) the piston should be pulled inwards due
to the vacuum. If it does, you automatically know that the BCV and the Vacuum pump are fine.
However, if it doesn’t get pulled in, then there is an issue with either one of the two. To figure out which
one, you will need some extra vacuum hose. Make sure the car is off and remove the hose that is on
the vacuum pump, and attach the one side of your spare vacuum hose to the vacuum pump. Now
attach the other side of the hose to the syringe. Again, prepare the syringe in the same manner as you
did the first time. Now start the car and see if the syringe’s piston gets pulled inwards. If it does, then
the vacuum pump is fine but there is a fault with the BCV. This may be something simple like just the
electrical connector that isn’t making proper contact, or the BCV itself needs replacing as the piston
inside of it has become stuck.

Vacuum pump

If the syringe does get pulled in, the next test will narrow the issue down to the turbo, or actuator.

Connect the vacuum pump DIRECTLY to the actuator. Then take the car for a drive. When you push
the accelerator pedal down, the car should boost up very quickly, and will actually overboost as the
ECU has no control over how much boost is produced. Since there is no control, I strongly advise that
you do this with caution, and only do it once. If no boost is produced, there is an issue with the actuator
or turbo

Sensors

Lastly would be to have the sensors check. Since the sensors are there to provide the ECU with vital
Important Information information, if they are faulty and give the ECU the wrong readings, it will cause issues.  I accept
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 I hope this little guide has been helpful, and will aid in solving your issues if you should encounter any.

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bajav Posted August 21, 2012 Report post 

WOW thanks man really good and useful information.

B cheers

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4 posts

williamn Posted August 28, 2012 Report post 

excellent information thanks

W
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badmann Posted September 23, 2012 Report post 

thanks saved a lot of time in searching.

B
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Hannes Maritz Posted July 1, 2017 Report post 

Thank you very much, very well explained.

H
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