Professional Documents
Culture Documents
TANK
CONSTRUCTION
GUIDE
1
Bottom Assembly and Installation 7-1 Hydrostatic Test Procedure 12-1
General Information . . . . . . . . . 7-1 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-1
Bottom Construction . . . . . . . . . 7-2 Fill Tank and Inspect . . . . . . . . 12-2
2
C H A P T E R
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER1
Purpose
This manual provides a general outline of the construction tools,
methods, and sequences of erecting a Hydrotec™ CS (“chimed”) storage
tank. There are many variations and components that are customized for
each tank and are not covered herein.
Review all CST supplied drawings and this manual in it’s entirety before
beginning any installation.
If you are unsure of the requirements for building your tank, contact a
CST Field Service representative for specific guidance. CST
recommends the use of an experienced technical advisor for all tank
installations to assist those who are not experienced tank builders.
General Knowledge
It is assumed that the builder is knowledgeable in general construction
methods and terminology and has an existing safety program and manual
which applies to this and their other field construction efforts.
Drawings
A complete set of construction drawings is prepared for each tank order.
Copies of the drawings are forwarded to the customer. A typical set of
drawings would include the following.
1-1
Elevation and Bill of Materials Print
This is the key drawing in the set. It contains the bill of material listing all
parts and part numbers, accessories, and ring orientation.
Unloading Materials
CST's materials are shipped by trucks or by container. A forklift or a
crane capable of lifting 6000 pounds will be required to unload materials.
If shipped by container, transportation from docks may be necessary.
All tank staves are shipped in special racks designed to protect the parts.
The shop applied coating is very durable, but is subject to damage if
mishandled or abused. Use extreme care to protect coating at all times
during unloading and construction.
Do not lift from end rack angles or from the bottom of the staves with the
forks of the forklift. This may result in damage to staves. Use the
following method to unload the stave racks.
Storage
1-3
or bill of materials sent with the load as well as against the bill of
materials listed on each drawing.
Note: This shipment has been carefully checked and packed. Upon arrival,
please list any visible damage or shortage on carrier's delivery orders.
CST is not responsible for parts lost or damaged in transit. Consignee
must notify CST of any shipping discrepancies immediately upon
delivery.
2-1
Minimum Suggested PPE Requirements
1 2
3 4 5
Figure 2.1
WARNING:
Tank cannot withstand heavy sustained winds or
wind gusts during construction. Failure to heed
could result in serious personal injury or death.
A partially erected tank must be tied off at each vertical seam if excessive
winds are imminent.
Do not start a new ring if weather is questionable. Always start a new
ring with the intent to finish before inclement weather approaches or the
end of the day. Tie off recommendations are for completed rings only.
Hardware
WARNING:
Use CST Storage supplied hardware. Failure to
heed could result in catastrophic tank failure.
2-3
Crane Safety
WARNING:
Use proper lifting and rigging as appropriate.
Failure to heed could result in serious personal
injury or death.
When cranes are used, the user is responsible for determining the weight
and developing a rigging and lift plan as appropriate.
General
The following includes the recommended tools and equipment typically
required to construct the HydroTec CS storage tank.
The user is responsible for determining the weight and developing
rigging and a lift plan as appropriate.
3-1
Description Description
3 pound mini sledge 3/8 inch air drill
4 pound hammer 11 PC impact socket set
Nylon tool pouch belts 17 PC wrench combo set
Bolstice 36 inch wrecking bar 12 foot nylon straps
16 oz ball peen hammers 50 foot ¾ inch air line
Dead blow hammer 28 oz 50 foot ½ inch air line
Cold chisels 7/8 inch Klein bolt buckets 5109
3 pound hammer Screw driver set
2 inch hole saw 4 foot level
½ inch steel drill bits Combo channel locks (2 pack)
16 oz claw hammers Crescent wrenches, 12 inch
1-½ inch hole saw Klein tool pouch belts
Wonder bar Bull pins
Caulking guns Level, 2 foot
3/8 inch steel drill bits Needle nose pliers
9 inch torpedo level ¾ inch wrench
Cut off wheels, 4 inch 11 inch C-Clamps with sheeps feet
Razor knifes Klein bolt bags
Grinding wheel, 4 inch 25 foot tape measures
Air oiler Framing square
Impact whips 9/16 inch wrench
Air hose safety cables checks ¾ inch impact socket deep
Crows foot, ¾ inch 9/16 inch impact socket deep
Crows foot, ½ inch Plumb bob
¾ inch air gromlets Chalk line
Safety pin air Speed square
Sawsall Pipe wrench, 24 inch
Step ladder, 8 foot ¾ inch sheet plywood
Step ladder, 6 foot 3/8 x 2-½ inch bolts, nuts, washers
Extension ladder, 24 foot Line up bars
Electrical cords (12 GA), 100 foot Reamers
12 ton bottle jack Drill bit kit
GFCI Wrenching bar, 36 inch
Steel tape, 100 foot
Description Quantity
Scaffold Bracket 1 per stave
Scaffold Planks1 2 per bracket
for 1 ring
Drive-out Ladder, Nut-up Ladder One each
Gin Pole One
Pneumatic Air Tugger or Crane One
Handrail Post and Guardrail System 1 per bracket
for 1 ring
Horizontal Lifeline System 2 minimum,
max. deter-
mined by tank
diameter
Skyhooks 6
1.Scaffold planks must be high grade lumber, stress-graded at 2,000 pounds
or better. Must conform to OSHA standards.
Ladders
There are typically two types of speciality ladders used for tank assembly
that hang from the top of an installed ring. The first ladder (drive-out
ladder) is approximately 12 feet long and used to access the interior of
the tank to drive-out the sidewall bolts after the sheets have been
installed. The second ladder (nut-up ladder) is approximately seven feet
long and is used on the exterior of the tank to access the top of the ring
for installing the nuts or other work as required.
3-3
NUT-UP LADDER
DRIVE-OUT LADDER
Figure 3.1
The gin pole and tugger system is used to lift the sheets up to the higher
elevations as the tank is being assembled. The preferred tugger is an
Ingersoll-Rand IR-D6U loaded with 365 feet of ¼ inch wire rope, 7 x 19
GAC.
During tank assembly, the cable is routed up to the gin pole located near
the top of the tank through the pulley and back down to grade to connect
the stave. The gin pole is two piece and is manually positioned from the
scaffolding and is moved around the tank as each sheet is lifted.
GIN POLE
Figure 3.2
3-5
Notes:
OPERATING PROCEDURES
General
The scaffold system and all tank-specific installation equipment is not
part of the tank and may be purchased separately from Daystar
Corporation at 800-747-1401.
This is an engineered system and all components must be purchased from
Daystar Corporation and used in accordance with their recommendations.
They can provide a design package for all equipment that is approved and
stamped by a professional engineer.
4-1
Shock Absorbing Lanyard Fall Clearance Calculation With
Overhead Anchorage
6 ft
Length of Lanyard
(LL)
17 ½ ft
Required Fall
Clearance
Distance Using
Typical 6 ft
Lanyard (RD)
3 ½ ft
Deceleration
Distance (DD)
6 ft
Height of
Suspended
Worker (HH)
Nearest Obstruction
Figure 4.3
Scaffold Bracket
The scaffold brackets should be spaced at a maximum of 5 feet on-center.
The scaffold bracket will be attached at the top on the sixth and seventh
bolts and at the bottom on the twentieth bolt of the vertical seam below
the chime. Both pieces of the scaffold bracket have a 7/8 inch hole that is 2
4-3
inches from the tank that can be used for a fall protection anchorage
point. Only one person can be anchored to a scaffold bracket for fall
protection. A maximum of two people are allowed to stand on the
scaffold boards between any two installed scaffold brackets.
The heavier (68 pound) scaffold bracket must be used when working
below 21 feet (measured at the feet of the worker). The lighter (28
pound) scaffold bracket can be used when working above 21 feet.
38 3/4"
Guardrail System
GALVANIZED
HANDRAIL AIRCRAFT
POST CABLE
SCAFFOLD
BRACKET
SCAFFOLD
BOARD
Figure 4.4
4-5
The seven angle brackets will be bolted on vertical seam holes below the
chime but above the scaffold bracket. The beginning and ending anchor
angle brackets will be spaced at a maximum of 60 feet. The interior angle
brackets will spaced equally between the anchor brackets and at a
maximum of 10 feet on-center. The cable will have a Zorbit energy
absorber and turnbuckle attached at one end for tension adjustment which
will be attached to the anchor bracket with a carabineer. The remainder
of the cable will be placed through the hole in the five interior brackets
and another Zorbit will be attached to the eye of the other end of the cable
and attached to the last anchor bracket with a carabineer. The turnbuckle
will then be adjusted to make the cable deflection at mid span to be 6
inches or less with no weight on the cable and the cable is secured by use
of three properly installed cable clamps.
A maximum of two workers can be attached to any one 60 foot section of
the horizontal lifeline at any given time. There must be a fall clearance of
at least 21 feet when attached to the horizontal lifeline at your feet when
using a lanyard, or a fall-restraint lanyard along with heavier bracket
components, must be used.
Sky Hook
The sky hook is designed to be placed over the top of the panel and used
as an anchor point for fall protection for one worker. It should be
positioned directly overhead and as far away from the open edge of the
panel as possible, but no closer than 5 feet. A lanyard or self retracting
SKY HOOK
Figure 4.5
In the event that a worker falls and is suspended by their self retracting
lifeline or lanyard a fall protection rescue plan will be implemented. The
R500 rescue and descent device should be attached to a fall protection
anchorage point (scaffold bracket or sky hook) above the fallen worker
with a carabineer or sling. The snaphook on the R500 should be attached
to the D-ring on the back of the harness of the fallen worker or to an
inverted rope grab attached to the fallen worker's lanyard. The rescue hub
can then be used to slightly raise the fallen worker in order to disengage
the self retracting lifeline or lanyard, so the R500 descender can lower
the worker to the ground at an automatic controlled descent of 2-3 feet
per second. Each crew should carry one R500 descent, be trained on its
use, and have it available for use.
4-7
The scaffolding system is installed after each ring of the tank is built to
provide a stable working surface for installation of the next ring. Prior to
installation and use of the scaffolding, each ring of staves to which it is
attached should have all hardware installed and tightened per
manufacturer's recommendation.
1 Begin by installing one scaffold bracket on each vertical seam of the
tank. During installation of the brackets overhead, each worker should
always be connected to at least one of the following: the horizontal
lifeline below, the hole in the scaffold bracket angles, or to a sky hook,
depending on availability of an anchor point during the process and the
position of the worker completing the task.
2 Once all brackets have been installed on the vertical seams of the next
ring of staves, the OSHA-approved scaffold boards are passed up and
placed on the scaffolding. The boards should be centered on the two
supporting brackets and overlapped with subsequent boards by at least
12 inches. The platform should be two boards wide.
3 As the boards are placed around the tank, the horizontal lifeline and
guardrail system are passed up and installed.
4 When installing the anchor angle brackets at each end of the HLL, it
will be necessary to use longer bolts than those provided with the tank
because of the thickness of the anchor bracket. If the stave ring being
installed is 3/16 inch thickness or less, than the anchor angle bracket
bolts will need to be 2 inches long. If the stave ring is greater than 3/16
inch thickness, than the anchor angle bracket bolts will need to be 2.5
inches long. All interior angle brackets should work adequately with
standard tank bolts as long as a full nut fits on the bolt.
5 Once the entire HLL and guardrail systems have been installed, they
should be properly tensioned and inspected.
6 Repeat the process for each subsequent ring.
The horizontal lifeline cannot be used as an anchor point until all seven
angle brackets are installed and the cable is properly tensioned.
While installing the staves at the leading edge of the ring, the two
hangers must be connected to the top guardrail cable with a properly
adjusted fall restraint/positioning lanyard when the height of their feet is
21 feet or less (refer to “Harness and Lanyards” on page 4-6). They
should also be simultaneously connected to the horizontal lifeline by
their shock-absorbing lanyards. The sky hook should primarily be used
by the individuals who are working on the driveout ladder, who are
4-9
Notes:
General
There are several types of foundation designs available for supporting the
tank. Foundation design specifications are the responsibility of the
customer or their engineer. CST recommends that all foundation designs
be completed by a local engineer familiar with the local codes and
conditions of the specific area of construction and in accordance with the
latest edition of AWWA-D103.
The type of foundation and how the tank is anchored is dependent upon
the application, allowable soil bearing pressure, environmental factors
like wind and seismic load, and the foundation loads from the tank. CST
recommends the site soil investigation be prepared and stamped by a
licensed geotechnical engineer to assure adequate soil bearing capacity is
available.
Foundation Types
There are four common types of foundations that can be used depending
on the design requirements and engineer's discretion.
Grade Band
A grade band is a steel band that is used to contain a suitable backfill
material like sand or pea gravel for an unanchored tank. The grade band
is typically one to one-and-one-half feet larger in radius than the diameter
of the tank and may be embedded in the soil. The grade band and fill
5-1
shall be level within ±¼ inch. The grade band is anchored in place with
stakes and backfilled, but the tank is un-anchored.
Ringwall
Full Slab
A full slab concrete foundation provides 100% support under the base of
the tank and can be either anchored or unanchored. An asphalt-
impregnated fiberboard and/or plastic sheeting material may be placed on
top of the ringwall/backfill and under the tank.
Base-setting Ring
A base setting ring foundation is when a partial ring of the tank sidewall
is embedded in the concrete slab. The first pour is the footing with
embedded anchors and brackets. The base ring is then installed on the
brackets prior to placement of the second pour which is a continuous
monolithic pour around the base ring. The entire interior floor of the tank
is concrete. See the section on installing base setting rings for additional
information.
Anchoring
When anchor bolts are required by design, they can be installed in place
before the concrete is poured or by installing epoxy-type anchors after
the concrete has been poured. The size of anchors and the embedment
depth can be found on the tank drawing if the anchors are provided by
CST.
All slab and ringwall foundations shall meet the levelness tolerances and
other requirements of AWWA and/or ACI. Unless otherwise stated,
foundations shall be level within ±1/8 inch in any 30-foot circumference
under the shell. The levelness on the circumference shall not vary by
more than ±¼ inch from an established plane.
The base setting ring staves shall meet the following tolerances before
and after the final concrete pour. The levelness on the circumference at
the top of the staves shall not vary by more than ±1/16 inch from an
established plane. The radius of the staves to the center of the stave shall
be within ±1/8 inch from the center point of the tank. The staves shall be
plumb to the vertical within ±1/16 inch.
Anchor Bolts
5-3
with respect to the center point of the tank shall be within +¼ inch and -0
inches. The chord between anchor bolts shall be within ±1/8 inch and is
non-accumulative between successive anchor bolts. Anchor bolts cannot
be bent or otherwise distorted to fit within the anchor chair on the tank.
Figure 5.1
2 Place the footing concrete.
Note: It is critical that the anchor/leveling plate assemblies be placed accurately
into the footing concrete.
Figure 5.2
4 Position assemblies such that the tape measure passes directly over
both anchor bolts when extended from center of structure as shown to
ensure radial alignment. The radius of the tank should be measured
from the center of the tank to the center of the leveling angle.
TAPE MEASURE
CENTER OF TANK
Figure 5.3
5 After the footing concrete has hardened, level each stave support angle
assembly before installing the foundation sheets. Level each
anchor/leveling plate assembly around the footing to within ±1/16 inch
by adjusting the nuts on the anchor bolts as required. Check for level
by placing a torpedo level along the length of the plate. Check the
height by placing a transit rod on top of the plate. Securely tighten nuts
on anchor bolts when all adjustments have been made.
5-5
Foundation Sheet Installation
The conseal is attached to the inside and outside surface of the base-
setting ring sheets as shown on the drawings and forms a continuous
sealing band. General installation procedures are as follows:
1 Clean the circumferential surface of the base-setting ring sheets where
the seal strips are to be applied.
2 The conseal shall be formed to fit tightly against the sheet edge at the
vertical seam and shall run continuously between bolts.
3 The Conseal strip shall be butt spliced, not overlapped.
4 Do not place the butt splice within 12 inches of a vertical seam.
5 Avoid stretching the seal strip.
5-7
Once the concrete has cured, apply the CIM material and bonding agent
as shown. See Figure 5.4. Refer to the Application Instructions for the
CIM materials that are available from their website at www.cimind.com.
CIM
CIM
CLOSED CELL
POLYETHYLENE
BONDING AGENT
CONSEAL
STAVE SUPPORT
ANGLE
FOUNDATION
BOLT
Figure 5.4
MATERIALS
General
All bolted steel CST tanks consist of prefabricated formed staves,
circular decks, and bottoms. A broad range of capacities is achieved by
varying heights and diameters. The following list of components is
typical of CST tanks. Familiarizing yourself with the terminology of each
item will aid in understanding the remainder of this manual and
identifying parts in the field.
Staves are bolted together at vertical seams to form stave rings. Each ring
is designed to support the load imposed by its contents plus loads
transferred to it from the rings above. Thus, stave thickness is increased
from thinnest in the top ring to thickest in the bottom ring of the tank.
The shell is formed by bolting stave rings together at the chime
(horizontal seam) to develop the required height. The bottom ring of shell
can be equipped with a flush cleanout or manway, which provides access
to the tank for easy cleaning. Plain rings complete the shell. Bolt-on
nozzles can be installed as required for filling and draining tank contents,
instrumentation, etc.
The bottom is joined together at radial seams to form a circular floor.
The center portion of the floor utilizes a center plate, and on larger
diameter tanks an adapter ring is also added. For a cone bottom, the
center plate may be replaced with a recessed sump.
6-1
Decks are formed similar to bottoms and are available in either self-
supporting or supported by a center support.
Best Practices
When installing the deck and bottom, loosely install all components and
fasteners before tightening.
All decks must be installed so that where the deck sheets overlap they
create a shingled effect to shed rainwater.
There should always be a gasket between steel at all exterior joints. There
should never be steel to steel contact.
All tanks over 20 feet tall shall be plumb at the top relative to the bottom
within 1/200th of the total height.
The roundness may be measured from the tank center to the center of the
stave (between vertical seams) at a height one foot above the bottom of
the tank and it shall be within ±¼ inch.
Building Materials
Some fasteners and gaskets listed here may or may not be used in a
particular application. The following are examples of typical gaskets and
fasteners that are used on HydroTec tanks. Always refer to the
construction drawings supplied with each tank for the exact usage and
placement on the tank.
All materials provided by CST are new materials in accordance with their
respective ANSI, ASTM, or other applicable standards. Material Test
Certification Reports are available from CST upon request.
The materials should be visually inspected prior to installation to confirm
that they are in adequate condition and suitable for use. If damage or mis-
fabrication is noted, it should be reported to CST for a determination on
its use or replacement.
Gaskets are used at every bolted joint in the tank. No connection on the
tank should ever be metal-to-metal.
Strip Gaskets are used on the vertical and chime (horizontal) joints.
Strip gaskets are supplied in rolls and cut to length during the installation
HEAVY STEP
Figure 6.1
Radius Gaskets are used at the “corner” of a vertical joint. They are
installed between the panel and the strip gasket. Apply a small amount of
caulk to both sides of the radius gasket during installation.
6-3
Panels which are single punched require the 1-¾ inch long gasket. Panels
which are double punched require the 3-¾ inch long gasket. Panels which
are triple punched require the 5-¾ inch long gasket.
3-¾" 5-¾"
1-¾"
RADIUS GASKETS
Figure 6.2
Circular Gaskets are used for domes, collars, etc. and are supplied in
one piece or several pieces which are joined to form a ring.
Special caulk is supplied and used at specific locations where gaskets
alone are not sufficient to seal the tank. The caulk is shipped in
cartridges. A caulking gun is required for dispensing the caulk.
Bolts
Fin Neck Polycap Bolts - ½ inch diameter fin neck polycap galvanized
bolts of various lengths are used on all vertical seams, in the deck, and on
appurtenances. The bolts in the vertical joints are secured with ½ inch
neoprene backed steel washers and ½ inch hex nuts.
Depending upon the application they are supplied with or without plastic
encapsulation. These bolts should be installed with the bolt head on the
inside of the tank. These bolts are typically Grade 5 bolts, but may be
Grade 8 depending upon the design. Grade 5 bolts are gray in color from
galvanizing and Grade 8 bolts are gold in color and may be stamped with
the numeral “8” in the end of the bolt.
Figure 6.3
Square Head Bolts and various Bolt Channels are supplied for use on
the bottom seams and are installed from under the floor.
Figure 6.4
6-5
Nuts and Washers
½ Inch Hex Nuts are used on all stave and deck joints.
Encapsulated or TecCap nuts may be used on internal bottom bolts.
Figure 6.5
½ Inch neoprene backed steel washers are used at each stave vertical
seam and may be used on bottom floor bolts.
½ Inch flat washers are placed under nuts on all chime and deck bolts.
Figure 6.6
Stainless steel hardware may be used in the deck structure, brackets, or as
otherwise specified on the installation drawings.
6-7
One-piece neoprene backed steel washers should be tightened until they
flatten. It is not uncommon to spin off part of the neoprene washer for a
proper seal. Their purpose is to seal the threads of a bolt. It is not
detrimental to the integrity of the tank if the excess neoprene comes
loose.
Plastic encapsulated bolts and encapsulated nuts should be tightened until
the raised ring on the bottom of the plastic cap is flattened. A visual
inspection may be done initially to ensure the ring is sealing against the
steel. Tighten a few fasteners first and check them before tightening all
fasteners.
All encapsulated nuts and bolts should be visually inspected for
mechanical damage. It there is any damage replace the damaged fastener.
General Information
Prior to commencement of any work installing the tank, the foundation
should be checked for the following.
Foundation
Anchor bolts
7-1
Bottom Construction
1 Lay out plastic and/or fiberboard on foundation as required. It may be
cut roughly to size, but do not cut to actual size of tank bottom until the
tank floor is installed.
2 Identify the zero degree orientation on foundation that matches up
with the corresponding orientation shown on drawings.
3 Locate bottom center plate at the center of the foundation. Put a strip
gasket on top and push bolts up thorough the bottom with bolt retainer
channel (2 or 3 hole).
4 Layout major axis of orientation.
5 If the bottom of the tank has a sump or any penetrations through the
bottom, or buried piping under the bottom, these components must be
located and installed prior to beginning the bottom. Refer to details in
the construction drawing supplied by CST.
6 Lay four bottom segments at major axis with the strip gasket and bolts
on both sides.
7 Prepare and lay the rest of the bottom segments.
For single-piece, pie-shaped bottoms (only one ring of bottom
segments - typically up to and including 32 foot diameter):
a Install all bolts and gasket on top right-hand side of bottom
segments, except the sheets that will mate with the 4 segments
already laid at major axis. Put in all bolts except the inner and outer
circumferential seam bolts.
For two-piece or multiple-piece, pie-shaped bottoms (multiple rings of
bottom segments - typically larger than 32 foot diameter):
a Do not gasket edges or radial seams beforehand. Lay both inner and
outer segments (with circumferential gasket and bolts in between),
then install full length of gasket on both the inner and outer
segments so there is a single length run (no splice). Do the same
with the bolt retainer channel.
For cant bottoms (multi-piece square-shaped floors - typically 55 foot
diameter and larger):
a Start in middle and run the full length row, then work to each side
one row at a time. Install gasket on the leading edge of each row
after it is laid and before laying the next row.
7-3
Single Sheet or Pie Shaped Bottom Typical Joints
C C
Bottom B B
Center Plate Strip Gasket
A A
B
B
A A C
7-5
Notes:
Sidewall Construction
First Ring
1 Begin by preparing the bottom chime. Install all lap bolts in the bottom
chime and insert wooden 2x4 or 4x4 under lap bolts to push them in
and to create a gap between floor and foundation to assist in installing
chime bolts.
Note: Do not use any material that will damage the coating.
2 Install all bump gaskets bump side down. Do not apply caulk yet.
Layout strip gasket and install all regular length chime bolts. If a strip
gasket must be spliced, overlap the strip gasket 3-holes and put a bead
of caulking at the end of each piece. Do not caulk ends of bump gasket.
3 Identify left-most first bolt for the first stave and remove it. Next
remove corresponding chime bolt for every stave - essentially setting
the layout of the first ring. Also remove any other bolts in the chime
that conincide with vertical seam bolts.
Figure 8.3
8-1
4 Mark all nozzle locations for staves with cutouts with a Sharpie or
grease pen. This will indicate where specific nozzles or accessories
should be as you set the staves, essentially transferring the stretch-out
drawing to the tank.
5 Install gasket and bolts on right-hand exterior side (non-offset side) of
the first ring in the rack (top edge of rack). As the bolts are inserted
through the hole from the inside of the panel, the strip gasket should be
used on the alternate side of the panel to hold the bolts in place.
Starting at the bottom of the panel, insert two rows of the appropriate
length ½ inch polycap bolts. Skip one row of bolts, insert six rows of
bolts vertically, skip one row of three bolts. Repeat for height of panel.
SKIP ROW
] 6 ROWS
SKIP ROW
] 2 ROWS
Figure 8.4
6 Disassemble the shipping rack as staves are pulled from the rack. The
rack should be secured and anchored so that it cannot shift or fall
during disassembly. Serious injury can result from a falling or shifting
rack of staves that is partially disassembled if not adequately secured.
WARNING:
The rack must be secured or anchored. Failure to
heed could result in serious personal injury or
death.
Figure 8.5
8-3
14 Push back lower 2-3 rows of bolts flush with the gasket so the next
stave will set easier.
15 Support and secure the first stave so it doesn’t fall over.
16 Hang the second stave by catching it over 3 bolts on the bottom chime:
the bolt on the left hand side, the floor sheet lap bolt (also longer), and
one bolt back from the last hole at the right of the stave. The stave
should be hung with the right side higher than the left side and the left
hand bolt shall be pinned first, then stave rotated over the chime and
the right side lowered down to drop onto the other two bolts, then nut-
up and snug.
17 Finish pushing all other chime bolts up and installing nuts (finger
tight).
18 Usedrift pins to walk vertical seam together (on left hand side of the
second stave), starting at bottom and working up, putting on catch nuts
as bolts come through the holes. Must make sure vertical seam strip
gasket at the top does not get pinched when the top of staves come
together and that radius gasket stays in place.
19 Repeat the last three steps to finish hanging the first ring. As additional
staves are installed, brace or secure the first couple staves until an
adequate number of staves are installed so that the assembly is stable
depending on stave thickness, wind conditions, etc.
Note: Do not tighten any vertical seams until later when noted.
20 Once you get to the last stave, knock all chime bolts down except for
the floor lap bolt. Start placing the stave from the right end (behind and
under the first stave where wedge was placed in step 9) then work
towards the left.
21 Remove wedge and drive up chime bolts, then use drift pins to close
up the last two vertical seams.
22 Tighten 100% of the bottom chime.
23 While tightening the bottom chime, simultaneously tighten up catch
nuts on vertical seams.
24 Once chime and catch nuts are tight, then drive-out and nut-up and
tighten all vertical seam bolts. Observe all gaskets to ensure they stay
in place. Tighten all vertical seam bolts. The top two and bottom two
rows of bolts at each vertical seam may need to impacted longer to get
1 Stage all of the materials for the second and higher rings inside the
tank on the floor with the concave side up. They can be carried in
before setting the first ring, or before closing up the first ring,
depending upon the diameter of the tank. When racks of steel are
placed on the floor, wooden 2 x 4’s or other protective material should
be placed between the floor and the rack. When staves are spread
around the perimeter, they should also be positioned on top of the
2 x 4’s or other protective material.
2 Install the tank scaffolding per the manufacturer’s instructions and
standard operating procedures. CST recommends the tank scaffolding
and fall protection system that can be purchased from Daystar Safety.
Other tank scaffolding systems are not recommended and the user
assumes all liability. A man lift or stick-built scaffolding system are
viable alternatives but are less efficient and more costly methods of
installation.
3 After the scaffolding system is installed, prepare to hang the next ring.
8-5
4 With a hammer, flatten the laps that were previously opened up in step
7 of the first ring installation. Use caution not to damage the coating.
5 Ream lap holes (minimal reaming is required). When installing bolts,
use neoprene washers on both the top and bottom of all reamed holes.
6 Install lap bolts (with neoprene washer under bolt head) then install the
bump gasket (with caulking if ready to hang ring immediately).
7 Install strip gasket on entire chime with 100% of chime bolts except
the bolts need to be left out for layout. Also leave out the bolt
immediately to the left of each vertical seam to be used as a lineup hole
to insert the drift pin.
APPLY CAULK
STRIP GASKET
Figure 8.6
8 Hang the second ring the same as the first, beginning with step 3 of the
first ring installation.
9 Repeat for each subsequent ring of staves.
10 On the second chime and higher, the lap bolts at the vertical seam for
the ring above can be turned over for ease of tightening, but it is not
BOTTOM OF PANEL
2V PANEL 3V PANEL
Figure 8.7
11 Once the top ring is complete with bolts and gaskets installed, install
the rafter clips. Do not ream the top chime until the deck is laid down.
Move the scaffolding to the middle of the top ring (3 feet to 4 feet
down from the top) for installation of the deck.
8-7
Notes:
Deck Construction
There are several types of deck installations depending on the design
specifications for the tank. All are generally installed the same with some
variation depending on: the type of deck sheet, the support methodology
at the center of the tank or the perimeter of the tank, and the type of rafter
system. Below is a description of the different components and how they
vary. Review the engineering drawings to determine how the roof system
for your tank is designed.
Deck Components
9-1
Rafter System
1 Main rafters
a Single piece
b Multi-piece
2 Jack Rafters
3 Externally Supported Roof
Deck Sheets
1 Self-supporting (no rafters) - typically less than 21 foot diameter
2 Pie-Shaped (rafter supported) - typically 21 foot up to 47 foot diameter
3 Cant (rafter supported) - typically greater than 47 foot diameter
General Installation
1 Install the gasket and bolts in the deck sheets on the ground in the
leading edge.
2 Install the rafter clips at the sidewall of the tank, if applicable.
3 Install the main deck structure support columns or clips at the sidewall
of the tank, if applicable.
4 Install the main support beams with center collar if self-supported,
OR, install the center-pole with bearing plate if center-supported, as
applicable.
5 Install the rafters (mains and jacks).
6 Install all internal piping and downcomers prior to installing the deck
sheets.
7 Install deck sheets.
8 Tighten deck.
9 Install roof components and accessories.
Figure 9.1
After installing the rafter, the rafter-to-clip bolts do not need to be over-
tightened. After snugging up the nuts, scar the threads of the bolt so the
nut will not come off and then loosen the nut so that the bolt can slide in
the slot of the rafter clip. Another alternative is to double-nut this
connection. Caution must be exercised when placing the deck sheet over
the top so that the rafter clip does not come loose from the chime.
9-3
installing these rafter clips, they should hang loose until the rafter is
installed.
Figure 9.2
After installing the rafter, the rafter-to-clip bolts do not need to be over-
tightened. After snugging up the nuts, scar the threads of the bolt so the
nut will not come off and then loosen the nut so that the bolt can slide in
the slot of the rafter clip. Another alternative is to double-nut this
connection. Installation of the deck sheets is much easier if the rafter can
slide in the sidewall clip. After entire deck with sheets is installed, the
vertical seam clip can be tightened from the outside by tightening the
vertical seam bolts.
Figure 9.3
Figure 9.4
Prior to standing the center pole in the tank by crane or other safe
methods, build a scaffold tower (or use other approved access
9-5
equipment) in the center of the tank to access the top of the center pole.
The scaffolding may not be used to secure the center pole. Once the
center pole is stood up, immediately install a minimum of 3 equally-
spaced rafters, using a crane or other safe method, to secure it to the tank
sidewall. Once the pole is secure, begin placing the other rafters,
connecting both to the clip at the sidewall and the bearing plate in the
center.
Self-supported Roof
The self-supported roof does not have a center pole, but instead consists
of two large main beams that are supported at the perimeter of the tank
walls by clips or columns and free-span the entire diameter of the tank.
There are typically multiple cross-braces between the two mains that
connect them.
Figure 9.5
In the center, there is typically channel or angle risers which support a
collar or rafter ring to connect the rafters. Depending on the tank size and
design, the size and mass of this support structure (the main beams, the
cross-braces, and the riser channel with the support collar) are typically
pre-assembled on the ground and set in place by crane. Many times the
main beams are too long to be one piece and so multiple pieces must be
assembled to make one main beam. When there are two main beams, the
splices must be offset so one splice is never directly across from the other
splice. No gasket should be used in these connections and when A325
structural hardware is specified, it must be snug-tightened as specified
Figure 9.6
Jack Rafters
Jack rafters are set between the main rafters when required by design.
They connect to a sidewall clip and a tie-brace that spans between two
main rafters, typically near the mid-point of the length of the main rafter.
It is generally easiest to loosely install the clips on the respective main
rafters with the tie-brace loosely hung on one of the clips. This is done on
the ground and set in place with the main, then once all rafters are
9-7
installed, the tie-brace can be connected to the second clip and tightened,
and then the jack rafter installed.
MAIN RAFTER
JACK RAFTER
Figure 9.7
DECK SHEET
BOLT-RETAINER ANGLE
½" SQ.HEAD BOLT &
NUT
½" FLAT WASHER
Figure 9.8
Figure 9.9
Cant Sheets
On cant roofs, start at one side and work towards the middle and stop at
the last full sheet, then go to the other side (180 degrees from the starting
point) and work towards the middle again) till the last full sheet is
installed. The closing seam will be installation of the two narrow sheets
down the middle. Each long seam should be laid as a continuous piece of
gasket. The sheets should be placed so that each quadrant is shingled and
will shed rainwater. This will require lapping the sheets in each quadrant
appropriately so that the edge of a sheet does not create a dam that blocks
9-9
the runoff of water. All sheets should be loosely hung until complete to
facilitate easy installation.
Completion
1 Once the deck is installed, finish installation of the tank by installing
all accessories.
2 As the scaffolding system is disassembled, clean and wipe the tank of
debris and check the coating for any defects that require touch-up.
3 Broom clean the tank floor to remove all debris.
4 Connect all valves and piping and close all manways to prepare tank to
be filled for hydrostatic testing. See “Hydrostatic Test Procedure” on
page 12-1.
MISCELLANEOUS
CHAPTER10
Figure 10.1
10-1
5 Use the nozzle gasket as a template and mark the nozzle inside
diameter and mounting holes onto stave.
6 Use a metal saw to cut out nozzle opening. Do not torch cut.
7 Touch-up edges of stave with touch up paint per touch up instructions.
8 Drill mounting holes using a 9/16 drill bit.
9 Push bolts from inside out into gasket in all mounting holes (gasket
will hold bolts in place until nozzle is positioned onto bolts).
10 Apply neoprene washers to all bolts.
11 Torque all nuts to minimum 50 foot pounds.
Note: Nozzles 8 inches and larger require an interior backing plate. The
procedure is the same as above except all work to be performed from
inside the tank.
Coating Touch-up
All coated tank components are shop-coated at the manufacturing
facility. The factory inspection includes holiday testing and dry-film
thickness measurement as required by CST's Manufacturing Quality
Assurance Manual. To minimize damage, care should be taken when
handling the coated steel during unloading, handling and installation.
This includes making sure tools or falling hardware do not damage the
coating; that the amount of mud, rocks, and sand brought into the tank
during installation is minimized, and that care is taken when using lifts or
mechanical equipment. However, despite the best efforts in the course of
shipping, handling, and installation, there may be some damage to the
coating.
A touch-up coating system is provided by the factory for touch-up in the
field. It is typically applied concurrent with the installation of the tank by
the installer (on the interior) and concurrent with the removal of
scaffolding (on the exterior). Other plans for touch-up are acceptable as
long as a thorough and complete visual inspection is performed. The
coating on the floor should be inspected after all tank installation work is
complete.
The primer coat system is Trico-Bond EP and it shall be applied to all
damage where the existing coating has been damaged to the substrate and
bare metal is visible. The Trico-Bond EP primer shall be applied in
accordance with the procedure in Appendix A.
Welding
All welding performed in the field as required by CST's engineering
drawings shall be performed by welders qualified to applicable American
Welding Society (AWS) and/or ASME Section IX Standards.
Welding to the tank is not recommended except as noted on the CST
engineering drawings. Protective measures, such as fire blankets or equal
steps, should be taken to preserve the coating around the area that is
being welded. All coating shall be touched up after welding is complete.
10-3
Notes:
APPURTENANCE INSTALLATION
CHAPTER11
½" HEX
BOLT
Figure 11.1
MANWAY &
BACKING PLATE
½" NUT
GASKETS
APPLY SEALER WHERE
VERTICAL & HORIZONTAL
½" NEOPRENE GASKETS OVERLAP
BACKED WASHER
Figure 11.2
11-2
Nozzle with Backing Flange
BACKING FLANGE
(IF REQUIRED)
NOZZLE
½" NUT
Figure 11.3
OVERFLOW
NOZZLE
(OR ELBOW)
½" NUT
Figure 11.4
11-4
Liquid Level Indicator Assembly
For tank with a deck or dome, determine the location for the gauge board
along the tank perimeter. Mark the center hole on the deck/dome for the
pulley pipe flange. Locate and mark the holes for the two tensioner
flanges on either side of the center hole as indicated.
16"
8.5" 8.5"
Figure 11.5
For open top tanks, install the level indicator top bracket onto the six
holes located in the wind girder. Position the bracket such that the pipe
plug holes are positioned to the interior of the tank.
Figure 11.6
Figure 11.7
Attach the two top anchor assemblies to the outermost pipe plugs.
Figure 11.8
11-6
Gauge Board Installation
Starting at the top of the tank, assemble the gauge boards by attaching
one splice bracket to either end using four ¼" truss head screws, inserts,
and lock nuts.
Figure 11.9
Attach one support bracket at the chime using the existing bolts.
Continue installing the gauge boards to the tank at every horizontal seam.
Figure 11.10
Figure 11.11
Attach the pipe section to the gauge board assembly using a U-bolt.
Figure 11.12
11-8
Guide Wire and Float Installation
Drop a plumb line from each tensioner assembly to the floor and position
the bottom anchor angle on the floor such that the guide wires will be
plumb. Attach the bottom anchor to the tank bottom.
Temporarily tie off one end of the guide wire. Thread each of the guide
wires down through the tensioner assemblies to the floor of the tank.
With the float resting on the tank floor, thread the guide wires through
the float guides. Insert the guide wires through the appropriate holes in
the bottom angle. Secure the end of each guide wire to the adjacent hole
using the supplied fasteners.
Figure 11.13
To provide adequate tension on the guide wire, compress the spring 1-½"
to 2" and bend the wire over the rod. Wrap the wire around the rod and
install the keeper sleeve over the wire and tensioner. Repeat for the other
tensioner.
Figure 11.14
Install the indicator onto the gauge board assembly.
Calibrate the indicator target to zero and attach the end of the float cable
to the target.
Check that the float and indicator are free to travel up and down the guide
wires without interference.
Figure 11.15
11-10
Completed installation views.
Figure 11.16
11-12
C H A P T E R
General
The purpose of the hydrostatic testing of a liquid tank is to ensure that all
of the sidewall and bottom joints are sealed by simulating the head
pressure of a tank in service by filling the tank with water and visually
inspecting the exterior for leaks. Bolted tanks have seams and
connections and it is not uncommon to have a few leaks when the tank is
first filled.
Leaks can be held to a minimum by:
• ensuring that all gaskets are installed correctly (no debris, folds, or
creases),
• all sealant is applied properly at gasket splices, chime laps, and stave
corner radii,
• and all bolts are visually double-checked to see that washers and nuts
have been installed and tightened.
Since a tank must be drained to fix a bottom leak, CST recommends that
all of the bolts in the floor of a liquid tank be double checked prior to
closing up the tank for filling to minimize the potential for a floor leak.
Check the floor fasteners manually with a socket and torque wrench for
proper torque.
If fiberboard is present under the tank and was wetted by rain during
construction, it may take up to a week for the fiberboard to dry out and
stop oozing water.
A vacuum box test is an alternative method of checking the floor, but is
not considered more conclusive.
12-1
Fill Tank and Inspect
After proper tank construction has been completed, the Owner is
responsible to install all manway covers, valves, appurtenances, and
blind flanges to cover all openings on the tank.
Once the tank is sealed and water source connected, proceed with filling
the tank. Due to a wide variance in the available pressure and flow rates
from the supplied water source, the duration required to fill the tank
varies.
During the filling process, the tank should be monitored periodically.
Any leaks can be repaired as they are discovered. The tank may be filled
either to the maximum working level or to the overflow level.
After the tank is full, perform a thorough visual inspection of the shell
and perimeter of the foundation to determine if there are any leaks. CST
does not recommend a minimum hold time, but it may be beneficial to
allow the tank to sit for approximately 24-hours prior to draining or
transferring the water to another tank to allow any slow leaks to develop,
if any.
The customer or a representative should inspect the tank and accept it
prior to draining. The customer or its representative should inspect the
tank and accept it prior to draining.
Repair Procedure
If a leak does occur during filling or inspection, the following steps
should be followed to repair the leak.
1 Check the leaks first which are highest on the tank. What appears to be
a leak near the bottom may be coming from a leak higher up.
2 Look carefully for the source of the leak since it may follow a seam for
some distance before it can be easily seen.
3 Carefully tighten the bolts next to a leak for about one foot in both
directions. Do not over tighten. It is possible to squeeze the gasket out
of a seam, making it necessary to replace the whole strip of gasket.
Stop tightening when gasket begins to compress. To tighten evenly,
work back and forth from one bolt to another.
4 In some cases, leaks are caused by humps in the steel plates halfway
between bolts especially on lighter gauge steel. Often the most
12-3
12-4 HydroTec Tank Construction Manual
C H A P T E R
General
Continuous and satisfactory operation of the tank requires periodic
inspection and maintenance to identify and correct any potential issues as
they arise. Below is a minimum recommended inspection that should be
completed on a regular basis.
Monthly Inspections
A monthly inspection should be completed by owner or operations
personnel. Any discrepancy or sign of damage should be repaired
immediately.
1 Check for and remove any debris that may have accumulated outside
the tank, particularly any debris that is in contact with the tank shell or
appurtenances attached to the tank. Remove any mud, oil, or other
foreign material on the tank shell.
2 Check all seams for any signs of leaks. If a leak is detected, check
tightness and tighten all bolts within one-square foot area of the leak.
Monitor the area until leak is eliminated.
3 Check all seams for any distortion that may have occurred from undue
structural stress.
4 Check to make sure that there is sufficient drainage away from the
tank and no water is standing under or near the foundation.
13-1
Annual Inspections
An annual inspection should be completed by the owner to ascertain the
condition of the tank. The inspection should identify any signs of
corrosion, product leakage, coating damage, equipment malfunction, and
any other item related directly or indirectly with the performance or
safety of the tank. All corrective action should be completed immediately
after a problem is identified. In addition to the monthly inspection, the
following should be examined.
1 Examine the concrete ringwall or slab foundation for fractures that
may have developed. Fractures or other distortion can cause eccentric
loading on the steel tank and may lead to structural damage or failure
2 Check for voids or gaps between the tank bottom and the concrete
ringwall or slab foundation that may be caused by foundation
settlement.
3 Check the anchor bolts and grout (if applicable) to ensure the nuts are
tight and grout is not cracked.
4 For tanks with granular foundations, check for washouts or other signs
of loose or missing backfill.
5 Examine the deck for sagging, water standing on the deck, or other
foreign material on top of the tank.
6 Inspect tank for signs of external corrosion or other coating damage
and repair.
7 Inspect all fittings and appurtenances for signs of leaking or loose
connections.
The appurtenances on the tank should be serviced on a regular basis and
inspected annually or more frequently as required.
1 Thief hatches (pressure/vacuum) should be inspected and have the seat
ring and gasket wiped clean. Check the valve for free movement. In
cold environments, inspect for icing caused by condensation. Clean
screen of all debris that it has collected. Check for screen deterioration
and replace if necessary.
2 Free flowing vents should have the screen cleaned of debris and
checked for deterioration. Replace if necessary. In cold environments,
inspect for icing caused by temperature difference.
3 Nozzles and connecting pipes should be checked for distortion of the
tank wall at the point of connection or stress within the nozzle or
13-3
After the inspection and all repairs are complete, remove all materials,
equipment, and tools and clean the tank as required for product quality.
General
Inspections can be made by the owner's personnel or other qualified
personnel. If this is not feasible, or the severity of the problem warrants
the need, an experienced tank technician can be hired through CST's
Field Service Department.
If any touch-up repairs are required to the coating, CST can provide a
standard touch-up procedure based on the existing coating. Contact CST
for touch-up procedures and materials.
It is recommended that spare hardware be kept on hand to cover normal
maintenance or emergency situations. Because of the many types and
sizes of tanks and hardware available, contact CST for your particular
application. Generally, parts on hand should include gasket material,
caulking, bolts, nuts, and washers. Gaskets and hardware should not be
re-used once they have been removed.
Installation of new nozzles or appurtenances or a change of service may
void the warranty of the tank. If the tank is being considered for a change
of service, the specific gravity of the new liquid must be less than or
equal to the liquid previously stored in the tank. It is recommended that
any such service or physical changes should be brought to the attention of
CST PRIOR to the change.
13-5
13-6 HydroTec Tank Construction Manual
C H A P T E R
APPENDIX
CHAPTER14
14-1
Appendix A - Trico-bond EP Touch-up Procedure