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Peanuts and Power in the Andes: The Social Archaeology of Plant


Remains from the Virú Valley, Peru

Article  in  Journal of Ethnobiology · December 2018


DOI: 10.2993/0278-0771-38.4.589

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Peanuts and Power in the Andes: The Social
Archaeology of Plant Remains from the Virú Valley, Peru
Authors: Masur, Lindi J., Millaire, Jean-François, and Blake, Michael
Source: Journal of Ethnobiology, 38(4) : 589-609
Published By: Society of Ethnobiology
URL: https://doi.org/10.2993/0278-0771-38.4.589

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Journal of
Ethnobiology 2018  38(4): 589–609

Peanuts and Power in the Andes: The Social Archaeology of Plant


Remains from the Virú Valley, Peru

Lindi J. Masur1*, Jean-François Millaire2, and Michael Blake3

Abstract. We present new data highlighting the symbolic and ritual association of peanuts (Arachis
hypogaea) on the north coast of Peru during the Early Intermediate Period (200 BC to AD 800). Recent
paleoethnobotanical work at the two Virú polity sites of Huaca Gallinazo and Huaca Santa Clara has
revealed a distinctive distribution of peanut remains in contexts associated with elite and ceremonial
practice, including performative feasting and burial ritual. In contrast, peanuts were rarely recovered
from domestic spaces associated with quotidian practice. Furthermore, unlike staple crops such as
maize (Zea mays) or beans (Phaseolus spp.), their low frequencies in state-run storage facilities suggest
peanuts did not have a significant role in the polity-wide redistribution economy. Information drawn
from historical documents and archaeological excavation beyond the Virú Valley likewise suggests
differential consumption of peanuts, which were largely linked to ritual practice across the greater
Andean region.
Keywords: Virú, peanuts, elite feasting, paleoethnobotany, social archaeology

Introduction ines the social practices surrounding the


A recent paper by Morehart and production, distribution, and consumption
Morell-Hart (2015:483) admonishes paleo- of one economic plant, peanuts (Arachis
ethnobotanists for our difficulties in “tran- hypogaea), at the Early Intermediate Period
scend[ing] the ecofact,” or, rather, the (200 BC to AD 800) sites of Huaca Santa
reluctance or neglect of moving beyond Clara and Huaca Gallinazo, located in
ecological inquiry and engaging with the Virú Valley, La Libertad region of Peru
social archaeological themes, such as (Figure 1).
political ecology and identity. Indeed, the Despite the wealth of botanical
field has seen a recent shift beyond theo- remains preserved at north-coastal archae-
retical frameworks of human behavioral ological sites (Table 1), the use of peanuts
ecology, historical ecology, and niche in pre-Hispanic ceremonial practice has
construction towards a paleoethnobotany largely been overlooked, aside from a few
of social practice, and rightfully so (see scholarly works (Bourget 2006; Donnan
Sayre and Bruno 2017). At the most basic 1976; Fournier 2004). Archaeologists have
level, plant remains left behind from the long considered peanuts to have been
production and consumption of food in a generic staple crop despite mounting
the past, whether quotidian or ceremo- evidence to suggest otherwise. Further-
nial, are created by social practices. These more, most reports of the recovery of
are practices fundamental not only to the peanuts from archaeological contexts lack
reproduction of social structures, but which detailed spatial or quantitative information
also contribute to cultural transformation necessary for making social interpretations.
(Morehart and Morell-Hart 2015:488). We first provide a brief overview of
Heeding this movement, this paper exam- why peanuts may have been so valued in
1
Department of Anthropology, University of Toronto, 19 Russell St., Toronto, ON, Canada, M5S 2S2.
2
Department of Anthropology, The University of Western Ontario.
3
Department of Anthropology, The University of British Columbia.
*
Corresponding author (lindi.masur@mail.utoronto.ca)

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590 Masur, Millaire, and Blake

Figure 1. Map depicting the Virú Valley, Peru, and archaeological sites associated with the Virú polity including the
study sites Huaca Santa Clara and the Gallinazo Group.

Viruñero society. Pre-Hispanic and early primary association with burial ritual, feast-
colonial peanut use in north-coastal art and ing, and other elite-dominated contexts.
ceremonial contexts will then be explored
and contrasted with our case study at the Why Peanuts? Labor, Nutritive, and
two Virú polity sites of Huaca Santa Clara Symbolic Considerations
and Huaca Gallinazo. In order to under- Despite the presence of peanuts in
stand the relationships between plants and ritual contexts on the north coast of Peru,
ancient Virúñeros, our study transcends an they have been given very little attention by
ecological account of species present in archaeologists, perhaps correspondent to
the botanical assemblage and examines the use of “peanuts” in the American lexi-
the role of peanuts in Early Intermediate con as referent for something of little worth
Period social practice, highlighting their or importance. However, their significance

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Peanuts and Power in the Andes 591

Table 1. Edible plantsa and algae species from Virú Valley study sites.
Scientific name Common name
Plants Prosopis chilensis Algarrobo
Persea americana Avocado
Phaseolus spp. Bean
Ipomoea batatas Camote
Capsicum sp. Chili pepper
Bunchosia armeniaca Cansaboca
Annona cherimola Chirimoya
Pouteria lucuma Lucuma
Physalis peruviana Ground cherry
Psidium guajava Guava
Canavalia sp. Jack bean
Zea mays Maize
Inga feuillei Pacae
Arachis hypogaea Peanut
Cucurbita maxima Squash
Manihot esculenta Yuca
Algae Gigartina chamissoi Mococho
a
Nomenclature after Towle (1961) and Fernández Honores and Rodríguez Rodríguez (2007).

within the fabric of Viruñero elite social Early Intermediate Period, data from the
practice serves as a basis for re-orienting early days of the Green Revolution suggest
our perceptions of how they may have been that peanut yields were lower than cereal
valued in the past. Modern, small-scale grains like maize and have been greatly
peanut cultivation in developing nations improved by modern technical interven-
without the use of industrial equipment tions (Table 2). Differences in production
has been noted to be a “very labor-in- quantities might be a result of both desired
tensive,” “high risk,” and “economically labor investment as well as culturally
unattractive” endeavor (FAO 2002:15). appropriate uses. Of potential relevance
This is, in part, due to the plant’s unique is an ethnography of Mocheros, outside
development cycle. Peanut plants possess of nearby Trujillo, conducted in the early
gynophore structures, commonly called 1940s by Gillin (1945). His work describes,
pegs, which serve to push the developing in great detail, their small-scale irrigation
pods below ground level for the remainder agriculture and use of medicinal plants.
of their growth. As the pod finishes matur- However, peanuts were not reported to
ing out of sight, a high level of expertise be consumed frequently or in substantial
is required to assess and time harvesting quantity during his study, although a small
without reducing yields (FAO 2002:16). amount were indeed cultivated (Gillin
Harvesting is also considerably laborious. 1945:59).
The FAO (2002:20) estimates that roughly There are many reasons why peanuts
40% of a peanut farmer’s time is invested in would be a valued food in pre-Hispanic
harvest-related tasks per crop cycle. Andean societies. Peanuts, like most
While it is difficult to estimate the seeds and grains, store exceptionally well
productivity of peanut farming during the in cool and dry environments (Woodoof

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592 Masur, Millaire, and Blake

Table 2. Peanuta vs maize cultivation in Peru from earliest and most recent years on record.b
1961 2016
Peanuts Maize Peanuts Maize
Area harvested (ha) 1,670 253,396 4,089 464,887
Yieldc (hg/ha) 12,575 13,419 17,065 32,477
Production (tonnes) 2,100 340,037 6,977 1,509,809
a
In FAOSTAT database peanuts are categorized as “groundnuts, with shell.”
b
Recorded by FAOSTAT (2018).
c
Identified as calculated as opposed to official data.

1966:85) and, when kept in the pod, may Ritual and Symbolic Consumption of
last between eight and ten months (FAO Peanuts
2002:42). As they are well suited for long
term storage, they may have been useful Peanuts for the Living
as agricultural tribute or tax, for instance, Documentary sources since the Colo-
in the Virú polity’s redistribution economy. nial era have noted that Andean peoples
Peanuts are also highly nutritious (Table were not only aware of the high nutritive
3); today, they are known for their high fat value of peanuts but had varying medi-
and protein content, as a good source of B cal and ritual uses for the plant. While we
vitamins (especially niacin), and of miner- acknowledge that this information should
als such as copper and chromium (Estrella not be faithfully projected into the distant
1990; Savage and Keenan 1994; Woodroof past, it nevertheless may provide insight
1966). The subterranean development of on the importance of peanuts in Andean
their fruit—their pods growing towards the tradition beyond everyday consumption.
underworld—has also led Bourget (2006) According to Vega (1966 [1609]:501), in
to propose that peanuts were part of a crop Inca society, peanuts were eaten toasted
complex associated with death and fertility. or combined with honey to make marzi-
Coupled with their high labor investment pan-like cakes. More recently, sources
and potentially risky yields, elites may have mention they were eaten roasted, fried,
included peanuts in ritual feasts to not only salted, boiled, ground, mashed, used as
showcase the agricultural productivity of additives in sauces, or fermented into
the valley, but also to highlight their access chicha de maní (a fermented peanut bever-
to the sacred. age) (Bonavia 1991:131; Estrella 1990:113;

Table 3. Nutritional composition of peanut kernels (raw, per 100 g).a


Calories Macronutrients Micronutrients
564 Protein (g) 26 Calcium (mg) 69
Fat (g) 47.5 Phosphorus (mg) 401
Carbohydrate (g) 18.6 Iron (mg) 2.1
Thiamine (mg) 1.1
Riboflavin (mg) 0.1
Niacin (mg) 17.2
a
Modified from FAO (2002:55)

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Peanuts and Power in the Andes 593

Fernández Honores and Rodríguez Rodrí- represented on prestigious metallic objects.


guez 2007:107; Gillin 1945:53; Kaulicke For example, a golden parrot carrying
1997:72–74; Nicholson 1960). Peanuts a peanut in its claws was uncovered at
have had many perceived medicinal prop- Huacas de Moche (Uceda 2008:167–168).
erties, including aphrodisiac effects. Peanut However, the most impressive peanut
oil has been used as a treatment for alope- objects come from the tomb of the Lord of
cia (Estrella 1990:113) and its milk, when Sipán in the Reque Valley (Alva 2001; Alva
combined with that from almonds and and Donnan 1993). Aged between 35 and
Lagenaria seeds, has been documented to 45 years old, this member of the ruling elite
be a soporific, an aid in preventing jaun- was buried in a coffin with eight retainers,
dice, and a kidney cleanse (Cobo 1890 sacrificed animals, and 451 finely crafted
[1653]:360). funerary ornaments. Among these was an
During the early Colonial period, impressive necklace (Figure 2b) composed
peanuts were often featured in performa- of twenty oversized gold and silver peanut
tive ritual. In Inca society, they were among replicas (Alva 2001:227), further under-
a handful of select crops incorporated scoring the association of peanuts with
in offerings to the creator god Viracocha power and the elite.
(Rowe 1946:309). Peanut consumption Peanut designs have also been included
as part of ritual acts during pre-Hispanic on other types of Moche art. Peanut pods
times has been suggested by a number of were painted on ceramics or included as
archaeologists (Arsenault 1992; Chicoine sculpted elements on stirrup spout vessels,
2011; Fournier 2004; Gumerman 1994, often arranged on stacked gourd plates
1997a; Hastorf 2003). At the Late Moche (Figure 2c). This is particularly notewor-
sites of Huaca Colorada, San Ildefonso, thy in the context of depictions of ritual
Catalina, and Portachuelo de Charcape, in performances. A renowned fine line draw-
the Jequetepeque Valley, peanuts are asso- ing known as the “Presentation of Plates”
ciated with performative feasts carried out scene displays food, including peanuts,
on ceremonial platforms and patios for a sitting on stacks of gourd plates waiting to
community-wide audience (Duke 2017; be served to an important figure during a
Swenson 2006:132–133). Their importance feasting ceremony (Bourget 1994; Donnan
in displays of conspicuous consumption is 1976:67; Hastorf 2003:550).
further underscored in botanical evidence Peanuts were also depicted on textiles.
from feasting contexts at Early Horizon One specific example, an unku (tunic) from
sites in the lower Nepeña Valley, where an Early Horizon settlement in the Nazca
they are the second-most consumed crop or Rio Grande Valley, features an image of
after maize (by count) at both Huambacho farmers enacting a fertility ritual (O’Neale
and Caylán (Chicoine 2011; Chicoine et al. and Whitaker 1947:294–296). Several rows
In press). of embroidered figures holding an assort-
Peanuts were featured recurrently in ment of crops can be identified. Peanuts
Moche art (Bourget 1994; Donnan 1973, are on the garment in five scenes. O’Ne-
2008; Fournier 2004; Quilter 2010:135; ale and Whitaker (1947) surmise that their
Uceda 2008). In the Moche, Santa, and presence along with corn and beans is
Chicama valleys, ceramic pendants often reflective of their increasing importance in
featured peanut shells (Figure 2a), created the valley’s changing subsistence economy.
using molds of actual pods (Bernier 2010).
These were mass-produced by professional Peanuts for the Dead
craftsmen at workshops like Cerro Mayal According to Cobo (1890 [1653]),
alongside a variety of other Moche ritual beyond their role in Inca diet and medicine,
wares (Jackson 2008). Peanuts were also peanuts were commonly used as offerings

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594 Masur, Millaire, and Blake

Figure 2. A. Peanut pendant beads from Cerro Mayal. Photograph courtesy of Margaret A. Jackson, Cerro Mayal
Project. B. Necklace of gold and silver peanuts recovered in the tomb of el Señor de Sipán. Photograph by Susan
Einstein, courtesy of Christopher Donnan. C. Early Intermediate Period stirrup spout vessel from the Virú Valley
depicting an offering of peanuts and maize on stacked gourd plates. Photograph courtesy of Museo Larco, Lima,
Perú; catalogue # ML006429.

for newly-deceased individuals, ancestors, 1995; Gumerman 1994, 1997a; Jackson


and the supernatural. Funerary contexts 2008; Millaire 2002; Strong and Evans
and art demonstrate that, in Moche society, 1952; Towle 1961; Ubbelohde-Doering
the dead were often provided with a meal 1966, 1983). Their inclusion in funerary
for their journey to the afterlife, which was contexts extends to the central and south
presented on a gourd plate (Figure 3). These coasts of Peru as well (Kaulicke 1997; Towle
offerings commonly included peanuts, 1952; Valdez 2005; Verano 1991). Coupled
especially in high-status graves (Donnan with their depictions on gourd plates on

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Peanuts and Power in the Andes 595

Figure 3. Moche “Burial Activity” scene depicting offerings placed on stacked gourd plates being lowered into
the burial chamber of a high status individual. Illustration by Donna McClelland, courtesy of Dumbarton Oaks
Research Library and Collection.

Moche ceramics, they clearly played a key concluded that the most elaborate burials
role in feasting practices for both the living at Pacatnamú were of individuals buried
and the dead (see also Hastorf 2003:549). in cane coffins, re-analysis reveals another
Millaire’s (2002) re-visitation of indicator of high-status: the quantity of
Gumerman’s (1994, 1997b) study of Moche gourd containers left as offerings (Millaire
period burials from Pacatnamú also illus- 2002:129–130). While peanut remains
trates the importance of peanuts as funerary (n = 119) are limited to only a single burial,
offerings. While Gumerman (1997a:246) they are associated with Burial 9, a male of

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596 Masur, Millaire, and Blake

50+ years buried in a cane coffin alongside areas of the site are comprised of simple
two ceramic vessels and 19 gourds, the domestic architecture and craft production
largest quantity among the burials (Gumer- zones. In contrast, excavations on the three
man 1997b). In this light, it appears peanuts mid-level terraces revealed a network of
were only afforded to those of the highest rooms of different size and utility, including
position in Pacatnamú society. possible elite residences with human buri-
als and restricted access patios. Excavation
Materials and Methods on the terraces also revealed a large-scale
storage system for food crops, leading
Study Sites Millaire (2010a) to argue that the site likely
Paleoethnobotanical work was carried played a key role in the Virú polity redis-
out at the archaeological sites of Huaca tribution system, functioning as a locus for
Santa Clara (V-67) and Huaca Gallinazo the collection of agricultural products from
(V-59). These two settlements, located the valley and the redirection of surplus to
about 15 kilometers apart, were integral the urban center.
to the administration of the developing
Huaca Gallinazo
valley-wide state occupied between the
The capital city of the Virú state was
second century B.C. and the sixth century
the Gallinazo Group site, what is now a
A.D. During this time span, the valley saw a
concentration of approximately 30 mounds
significant increase in population size and
(Millaire 2010b; see also Bennett 1950;
agricultural productivity, the establishment
Strong and Evans 1952; Willey 1953).
of a four-tiered settlement hierarchy, and
Huaca Gallinazo is the largest mound of
the emergence of many large urban settle-
the group, boasting an impressive 82,000
ments (Fogel 1993; Millaire 2010a, 2010b;
m3 civic-ceremonial building. Surrounding
Millaire et al. 2016; Willey 1953).
the huaca was a cityscape approximately
Huaca Santa Clara 40 ha in size, comprised of densely
Huaca Santa Clara is a mid-sized populated multi-household architectural
settlement built on the flanks of a small hill compounds. Population estimations range
in the middle Virú Valley and is thought to from 10,000 to 14,400 people living within
have been the polity’s administrative center the urban core (Millaire and Eastaugh
(Millaire 2010a). Standard radiocarbon 2011). Coring, magnetometer, and ground
dates suggest this occupation dates back penetrating radar surveys show that agri-
to the first and possibly second century cultural fields surrounded the huaca and
B.C. and lasted until the seventh or eighth settlement mounds (Millaire and Eastaugh
century A.D. (Millaire 2010a). The huaca, a 2011, 2014). During the 2011-12 seasons,
triangular-based pyramid, features a build- work was carried out on the main platform
ing on its apex (known as Sector 1), three mound (the Southern Platform) and in one
adobe brick platform terraces on each of its of the residential compounds (Architectural
edges (Sectors 2, 4, and 6), and residential Compound 2) (Figure 5).
sectors towards the bases (Sectors 3, 5, and The Southern Platform (SP) is a large
7) (Figure 4). The civic building in Sector stage-like space (100  20 m) that over-
1 consists of a solid adobe platform built looks a wide plaza to the south of the
directly on the rocky outcrop. Heavy loot- civic building. Analogous with contem-
ing and modern construction work have poraneous Moche sites, the platform was
greatly affected the integrity of the vestiges used by the polity’s highest elite (some of
in this part of the site, and therefore only whom may have been buried therein) as
limited excavations were undertaken in a performative space for ritual. This inlcu-
Sector 1. As a general trend, the low-lying ded feasting and the offering of food to

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Peanuts and Power in the Andes 597

Figure 4. Aerial view of Huaca Santa Clara and Sector 1 (civic building), Sectors 2, 4, and 6 (adobe brick platform
terraces), and Sectors 3, 5, and 7 (residential sectors at the base of the huaca).

ancestors, directed at the wider populace construction phases of the SP were used
of the city or possibly the whole valley- between cal AD 210 and 550 (2).
wide polity (Millaire 2010b). Immediately Architectural Compound 2 (AC2) is a
west of the platform, two rooms (A-7 and complex of domestic residences located
A-8) that featured adobe hearths and burnt 150 m to the northwest of the civic-cere-
ceramics, as well as feasting waste, were monial building. This compound covers an
uncovered that were similar to other feast- area of approximately 90 m2 and features
ing preparation contexts on the north coast a number of adjoining rooms with patios,
(see Chicoine 2011; Swenson 2006). AMS living quarters, storage bins, and food
radiocarbon dates suggest that the latest processing waste. AMS radiocarbon dates

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598 Masur, Millaire, and Blake

Figure 5. Map of Huaca Gallinazo and location of the Southern Platform (with civic-ceremonial and elite
architecture, and rooms A-7 and A-8 featuring large quantities of feasting waste), compared with the location of
Architectural Compound 2 (residential compound).

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Peanuts and Power in the Andes 599

suggest that the rooms from AC2 sampled remains (counts per volume) cannot be
in this study were used between cal AD calculated and compared with Huaca Galli-
230 and 440 (2), and, therefore, they nazo. Instead, percent frequency (specific
were relatively contemporaneous with plant counts divided by total amounts
rooms A-7 and A-8, as well as the associ- recovered) are used. While this method of
ated civic-ceremonial activities on the SP. data transformation is not a reliable means
of evaluating inter-site differences (Hastorf
Sampling and Analysis 1990), this measure does allow meaningful
At Huaca Gallinazo, a minimum of intra-site comparison of the relative impor-
ten liters of sediments were sampled from tance of plant foods, like peanuts, across
all levels and cultural features, such as different sectors of the site.
hearths, middens, and storage vessels,
with the exception of construction rubble, Results
and screened through one-sixteenth inch
mesh. All carbonized and desiccated seeds Huaca Gallinazo
and plant materials from screening were Thirteen plant taxa and one species of
retained. In addition, faunal remains from marine algae (Mococho) were identified
this process were also kept for analysis (see in samples from elite and civic-ceremo-
Johns 2017; Venet-Rogers 2013). Volumes nial contexts on the SP (Table 4). Despite
in liters were recorded. Samples were taken the greater number of layers sampled from
using a combination of strategies, including AC2, a much smaller diversity of taxa
composite (average) and point sampling, is represented in the domestic samples
following the processes outlined by Pearsall (n = 7 including marine algae; Table 5).
(2010:69, 71) and Lennstrom and Hastorf This disparity likely reflects the impor-
(1992). One-liter subsamples were taken tance for elites to have a diverse array of
for one-millimeter screening, a decision foods for ritual feasts, something which
made with reference to the methodology was likely understood as a sign of pres-
of previous projects in the region (Dionne tige. Greater densities of edible plants on
2002), methods outlined by Pearsall (2010) the SP compared to AC2 might also speak
and Fritz (2005), and also transporta- to the nature of these feasts; in the case of
tion considerations owing to the relative ritualized conspicuous consumption the
remoteness of the site. Fine sieving was semiotics of the food and performance
prioritized for subsampling, as desiccated may have been more important than the
remains can be damaged or destroyed act of eating itself. As such, if waste was
in the process of flotation. Care was also not a great concern, this would lead to the
taken to ensure evenness of sample collec- greater densities in our results. Food may
tion between the domestic area (AC2) and have also been left uneaten purposefully,
the elite and civic-ceremonial area (SP). reserved for ancestors and deities. Possible
The ratio of sampled sediments (by volume) taphonomic explanations are considered
between these two sectors (AC2:SP) is below.
1:1.4, although more features and deposi- Peanuts were present in 71% of the
tional layers were excavated in AC2 (a ratio sampled layers from elite and civic-cer-
of 1.2:1). emonial contexts on the SP. In contrast,
Sampling at Huaca Santa Clara only they are notably absent from AC2. This is
involved one-eighth inch screen collection significant considering the large quantity
as paleoethnobotanical analysis was not of peanut shell fragments found on the SP
a priority at the time. Volumes were not (n = 125) and their relatively high density
recorded. Thus, densities of identified plant in comparison to other plants, second only

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Table 4. Densities (counts per liter) of edible plants from elite and civic-ceremonial contexts on the Southern Platform at Huaca Gallinazo.
600

fruit

seed
seed

shell

Chili
Chili
Yuca

Bean
Pacae

Maize
kernel

Guava

cherry
Peanut

Layer /
Squash
Squash
Squash

pepper
pepper

Feature
Ground
Lucuma

Room# /
Avocado
peduncle

peduncle
Mococho

Bean pod

cotyledon
cotyledon

Algarrobo
Maize cob

Cansaboca
Maize stalk

Association
84 7 .2 0.5 1 – – – .2 – .1 .3 1.6 2.2 – – – 1.4 – – – –
85 7 .1 0.2 .1 – – – .3 – .1 – .2 1.2 – – – .2 – – – –
88 7 – .003 .015 – – .137 – – .006 .006 .058 .237 – – – .009 – – – –

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97 7 – .1 – – – – – – – .3 .5 1 – – – .1 – – – –
103 8 .025 .008 .16 – – .063 – – .013 .023 .188 .338 – – – .18 .003 – – –
106 8 – .001 .012 – – – – – .001 .001 .012 .011 – .001 – .002 – – – –
92 a – – – – – – x – – – x – – – – – – – – –
125 b – – – – – – – – .001 – – – – – – – – .001 .274 –
123 c – – – – – – – – .017 .017 .033 – – – – .025 – – – –
124 c X x X X x – – x X – X – x – x X – – X –
71 d – x X – – – – – x – X – – – – – x – – –
64 e – x – – – – – – – – x – – – – – – – – –
77 f – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – .059 – – – –

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101 g – – – – – x – – – – – – – – – – x – – –
80 h – – – – – – – – .001 – .003 – – – – .001 – – – –
Masur, Millaire, and Blake

122 i .006 .063 .019 .025 .006 .019 – – .05 .019 .506 – – – – .044 .031 – .019 .006
127 j – x – x x X – – x x X – x – – x – – – –
x
Indicates presence, but density < 0.001 fragments per liter, or volume is n/a and n < 10.
X
Volume is n/a and n ≥ 10.
a
Burial 3.
b
Cache of objects.
c
Test pit below floor 2 (eastern side of platform).
d
Ash fill below surface level.
e
Looter’s back dirt.
f
Fill inside ceramic jar.
g
Fill below floor 2 (western side of platform).
h
Test pit below floor 2 (western side of platform).
i
Fill below floor 1 (eastern side of platform).
j
Refuse deposit below floor 1 (eastern side of platform).

Table 5. Densities (counts per liter) of edible plants from domestic contexts (AC2) at Huaca Gallinazo.

Yuca

Room
Guava
Lucuma

Avocado
peduncle
Mococho

Bean pod

Algarrobo
Maize cob

Cansaboca
Maize stalk
Squash fruit

Peanut shell
Squash seed

Chili pepper
Maize kernel

Layer /Feature
Ground cherry

Bean cotyledon
Pacae cotyledon
Squash peduncle

Chili pepper seed

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65 1 – – – – – – – – – – .002 – – – – – – – – –
66 2 – – – – – – – – .2 – 1 – – – – – – – – –
74 2 – – – – – – – – .125 – .047 – – – – – – – – –
75 2 – – – – – – – – – – .038 – – – – – – – – –
79 2 – .008 – – – – – – – .008 .023 – – – – – – – – –
81 2 – – – – – – – – – – .002 – – – – – – – – –
82 2 – .002 – – – – – – .002 – .017 – – .001 – – – – – –
86 2 – .003 – – – – – – – – .003 .003 – .003 – – – – – –
87 2 – – – – – – – – – – .008 .004 – .004 – – – – – –

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89 2 – – – – – – – – – – .006 – – .006 – – – – – –
91 2 – – – – – – – – – – – .018 – – – – – – – –
98 2 – – – – – – – – .1 – – – – – – – – – – –
67 3 – – – – – – – – – – .005 – – – – – – – – –
Peanuts and Power in the Andes

68 3 – – – – – – – – – – x – – – – – – – – –
102 3 – – – – – – – – – – .056 .045 – – – – – – – –
69 4 – – – – – – .001 – – – .002 – – – – – – – – –
83 4 – .001 – – – – – – .002 – .048 .039 – – – – – – – –
104 4 – – – – – – – – – – .050 .225 – – – – – – – –
99 6 – – .013 – – – – – – – .013 .075 – – – – – – – –
100 6 – – – – – – – – – – – .114 – – – – – – – –
116 8 – – – – – – – – – – .124 – – – – – .002 – – –
x
Indicates presence, but density < 0.001 fragments per liter, or volume is n/a and n < 10.

Journal of Ethnobiology 2018  38(4): 589–609


601
602 Masur, Millaire, and Blake

to maize (Table 4). By count, peanuts were peanut shell fragment was recovered from
the third-most frequent edible plant on a sample taken from inside the tinaja, and
the SP after maize (Zea mays) and squash the other from the surrounding matrix.
(Cucurbita maxima), comprising 9.8% of
total fragments. The taxa represented in Huaca Santa Clara
AC2 suggest access to agricultural staples At Huaca Santa Clara, given the differ-
such as maize and beans (Phaseolus spp.), ent sampling methods and functions of
as well as tree fruits like avocado (Persea space—for instance, no obvious spatial
americana), guava (Psidium guajava), and dichotomy of elite ritual feasting vs.
lucuma (Pouteria lucuma), which may have quotidian meal preparation and consump-
been planted along the peripheries of their tion was identified—the questions we
fields. Mococho collection is likely asso- can ask regarding the role of peanuts at
ciated with marine fishing activities—the the site differ from those at Huaca Galli-
zooarchaeological evidence of which is nazo. Arguably, the most interesting areas
particularly abundant in this sector (Johns which yielded plant foods are the honey-
2017; Venet-Rogers 2013), demonstrating comb-shaped storage areas (Sectors 2 and
the importance of marine foods in quotid- 4), thought to be repositories for agricul-
ian meals. tural tax. Although peanuts were present in
The absence of many plant species in the storage facilities, their relative frequen-
the domestic sector, including peanuts, cies are quite low (Table 6). Compared to
most likely suggests that there was differ- staple crops like maize in Sector 2 (kernels
ential access to certain foods among and cobs n = 622, 62.3% of total plant
community members, and perhaps affirms fragments), or beans in Sector 4 (cotyle-
that these items have a ceremonial or pres- dons and pods n = 1041, 59.6% of total
tige association. For instance, most of the plant fragments), peanuts only account for
peanuts were found in A-7 and A-8, the two percent of plant foods in Sector 2, and
two adjacent rooms on the SP associated less than one percent in Sector 4. Their
with feasting preparation and waste. A low frequencies suggest that they may not
large quantity of faunal material, includ- have played a major role in the redistribu-
ing shellfish, fish, sea mammals, deer, and tion economy of the Virú Valley, at least in
camelids, were also recovered from these comparison to the aforementioned staple
rooms. Analysis of the mammal remains crops.
indicate that they represent a selection of Peanuts in general are not particu-
choice cuts, such as upper limbs, a pattern larly abundant at the site in comparison to
which is also consistent with ceremonial Huaca Gallinazo. They are notably absent
feasting practices (Johns 2017; Venet-Rog- from deposits associated with a civic build-
ers 2013). ing (Sector 1), as well as samples from
On the Southern Platform, there is contexts in the residential Sector 5, and
evidence for the inclusion of peanuts in make up a small proportion of the plant
burial ritual on the huaca. A small quan- remains from residential Sector 3 (> 1%).
tity of peanut shells (n = 2) were found The highest frequency of peanuts was in
alongside Burial 3, an infant interred with Sector 7, an area of ambiguous function,
textiles, three gourd plates, and a tinaja and their actual counts are quite small
(large jar), with possibly a smaller nested (n = 6). Peanuts are also present in Sector
vessel inside (Millaire and La Torre Calvera 6, the terraced platform adjacent to Sector
2011). This burial may have been a dedi- 1, albeit in very small quantity. Of note,
catory offering from a later construction however, is the recovery of a single peanut
phase of the huaca (Dillon 2015). One associated with the grave goods of Burial

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Table 6. Percent frequenciesa (counts per total number of fragments) of edible plants across sectors at Huaca Santa Clara.
Yuca

Sector
Guava

Camote
Lucuma

Avocado
Bean pod
Jack bean

Sample nb
Algarrobo
Pacae pod

Chirimoya
Maize cob

Cansaboca
Peanut shell

Maize kernel

Bean cotyledon
Squash peduncle

Chili pepper seed


1 2 - 4.5 - - 1.5 - - - 1.5 4.5 1.5 77.3 - - - 9.1 -
2 57 2.3 6.5 4.8 - - .6 .3 .2 3.3 5.4 2.4 44.1 18.2 3.8 2 6 -
3 8 .3 1.3 .9 .3 - .6 - - 56.6 2.2 1.9 29.1 - - .6 6.3 -

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4 7 - .1 59.3 .3 - .2 - - .4 - .5 5.3 33.5 .1 .2 .1 -
5 4 - 13 8.7 - - - - - 8.7 - 4.3 52.2 - 8.7 - 4.3 -
6 40 .4 4.5 14.6 1.5 - .2 - - 1.7 - .9 64.4 4.5 1.3 1.2 4.7 .1
Peanuts and Power in the Andes

7 5 2.4 5.9 2.4 1.2 - 1.2 - - 1.2 - 1.2 70.6 - 1.2 7.1 5 -
a
Volume of floated and excavated materials are not available from this excavation, therefore densities cannot be calculated. Percent frequency is therefore presented to
highlight the relative importance of all taxa across the site.
b
Number of layers or features from which botanical remains were recovered within the sector.

Journal of Ethnobiology 2018  38(4): 589–609


603
604 Masur, Millaire, and Blake

9, an adult female retainer sacrificed in a Differential Access to Economic Plant


large room interpreted as an elite living Resources in the Virú Valley
space (Millaire 2010a). Given the evidence that peanuts had
important symbolic meaning in Moche
Taphonomic Considerations ideology and iconography, as well as their
Some post-depositional factors which association with many high-status burials,
could have influenced differences in spatial representation on fine vessels, clothing,
distribution of plant foods include refuse and high-status adornment, as outlined in
management practices and the presence of previous sections, we propose that peanuts
domestic animals or pests. It is possible that had a prestige association in pre-Hispanic
dogs, guinea pigs, or ducks living in resi- north coastal Peru. Considering that hierar-
dential compounds may have consumed chies of power undoubtedly existed in the
some of the food waste remaining from realms of local administration and access
quotidian meals (Shimada 1994:181). In to the ceremonial and the sacred, and the
addition, garbage was commonly burned aforementioned laborious nature of peanut
or redeposited in construction fill, although cultivation, access to peanuts may have
Shimada (1994:181) notes that its use been unequal across Virú society.
was usually limited to nearby remodeling Paleoethnobotanical work at the
of structures within the same complex or nearby site of Huancaco also noted a
sector. Given this, and the lack of evidence marked difference in the types of legumes
for the presence of domestic animals found between the palace and the nearby
or pests in AC2 (dung and other faunal domestic area (Dionne 2002:101). Located
evidence), we presume that these deposi- approximately midway between our study
tional differences are the result of human sites, Huancaco was a terminal Virú ruler’s
agency and differing practice between elite palace, occupied between the sixth and
feasting and quotidian contexts. seventh centuries A.D. This was a time when
interaction with the expanding Moche state
Discussion and Conclusions: Peanuts, increased to include participation in the
Power, and Prestige wider Moche exchange system (Bourget
Based on their nutritional profile 2010), but with the continued mainte-
and their long-term storage capacity, we nance of local governance over people and
expected peanuts to have been a key crop resources (Millaire 2010a). Relative to the
in the Virú polity’s agricultural redistribu- occupations of our study sites, it has been
tion economy. However, our botanical postulated that Virú polity elites founded
analysis not only revealed their low rela- Huancaco after Huaca Gallinazo’s aban-
tive frequencies in state-controlled storage donment (Bourget 2010; Millaire 2010b).
facilities at Huaca Santa Clara, but also At this site, peanuts comprise roughly seven
confirms our suspicions they were not a percent of the botanical material from
staple food in everyday meals. Their asso- the palace and were the most important
ciation with civic-ceremonial and elite legume recovered (Dionne 2002:93, 110).
architecture, as well as burial activities at In contrast, at the nearby domestic site of
Huaca Gallinazo, instead suggests they V-317, species from the genus Prosopis
were consumed during ritualized activities. (such as huarango and algarrobo), of which
This might be explained, in part, by differ- large stands grow nearby the site, were the
ential access to peanuts between elites and predominant legumes in the assemblage
commoners, as well as symbolic associa- (6.4% of botanical material recovered).
tions restricting peanut consumption across Peanuts were relatively rare in the resi-
time and space. dences at V-317 (0.3% of the botanical
assemblage), indicating a stronger associa-

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Peanuts and Power in the Andes 605

tion of peanuts with ceremonial rather than vacuum. Whether peanuts were part of a
domestic practice (Dionne 2002:96, 110). small meal enjoyed by a family, exacted as
Dionne’s (2002) findings confirm that the tribute or tax presented to elites, eaten as
prestige association of peanuts extends part of a feast hosted by local leaders, or
diachronically within Virú society, in align- left as a ceremonial meal for the deceased,
ment with similar synchronous trends along they likely had various symbolic meanings
the north coast. depending on the context. Peanuts may
have represented great wealth, power over
Social Implications surrounding communities, or domination
As other Andean scholars (Chiou 2017; of the landscape when they were present
Costin and Earle 1989; Cutright 2009; in lavish competitive feasts. They may have
Dionne 2002; Gumerman 1997b; Hastorf represented death and rebirth when left as
1990, 2003; Ryser 2008) who have reported part of a burial offering. Their depiction on
on the unequal distribution of foods have fine vessels might have served to dissem-
noted, social hierarchies result in different inate symbols of power, wealth, fertility,
“needs, wants, and abilities to fulfill their or death within society. However, peanuts
goals” (Gumerman 1997b:106) between may also have simply represented suste-
community members. The construction of nance and nourishment as a component in
dichotomous high- and low-class foods an ordinary meal.
serves as a social tool for the internaliza- The role of commoners, their motiva-
tion and reification of social divisions and tions, agency, and practice within these
creates a hierarchy of taste “preferences” redistribution economies are often mini-
(see Bourdieu 1984). Virú elites appear to mized in our archaeological interpretations
have used peanuts among other symbols (Lepofsky and Kahn 2011). This is due in
of prestige to reinforce social differences part to the ample material correlates of
between themselves and commoners, elite activities, as well as the challenges of
perhaps as a way of controlling their access elucidating quotidian practice from simple
to the sacred. Elites in society were more domestic remains. Of course, as Sayre
apt to have consumed expensive or exotic and Whitehead (2017) note, we should
foods, fundamental indicators of politi- also consider that the preparation of foods
cal or religious authority maintained by for elite consumption may take place in
the control over certain economic and domestic spaces. Further, quotidian prac-
symbolic resources (Clark and Blake 1994; tice does not negate the presence of ritual.
Goody 1982; Gumerman 1997b; Hayden Thus, the construction of dichotomous
1996). In contrast, while non-elites may ritual and domestic spaces likely leads to
have participated to varying degrees in the interpretive oversimplification in archae-
ceremonial consumption of peanuts (as ology (Sayre and Whitehead 2017:136).
farmers presenting their peanuts as tax or We believe, however, that it would be
tribute, or as spectators of elite feasting), fruitful to further investigate the prepara-
and may have, indeed, consumed peanuts tion and consumption of quotidian meals.
during their lifetimes, the producers of In order to do so, we need to continue to
agricultural foods likely had greater access prioritize paleoethnobotanical collection
to a diverse array of animals and wild or and analysis, moving beyond “laundry
managed plants which grew nearby the lists” to consider the social implications of
fields they tended (Gumerman 1997b:117). plant-human relationships in the past.

Directions for Future Research Acknowledgments


As Douglas (1999:232) wrote, food The research described herein was
consumption does not occur in a social made possible thanks to the financial

Journal of Ethnobiology 2018  38(4): 589–609


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606 Masur, Millaire, and Blake

support of the Fonds de Recherche du the Early Intermediate Period: The Case of
Québec—Société et Culture, and the Huancaco, Virú Valley. In New Perspectives
Social Sciences and Humanities Research on Moche Political Organization, edited by
Council of Canada. We thank Estuardo J. Quilter and L. J. Castillo, pp. 201–222.
Dumbarton Oaks Research Library and
La Torre Calvera and Jeisen Navarro Vega
Collection, Washington.
for their roles in the archaeobotanical
identification. Dana Lepofsky and anon- Chicoine, D. 2011. Feasting Landscapes and
ymous reviewers provided insightful and Political Economy at the Early Horizon
Center of Huambacho, Nepeňa Valley,
constructive feedback during the submis-
Peru. Journal of Anthropological Archae-
sion process, for which we are extremely ology 30:432–453.
grateful. We also thank Steve Bourget, Gary
Chicoine, D., B. Clement, and L. S. Cummings.
Crawford, Guy Duke, and Giles Morrow
In press. Plants and Diets in Early Horizon
for their comments on earlier versions of Peru: Macrofloral Remains from Rehydrated
this manuscript. Fecal Samples at Caylán. Andean Past 13.
Chiou, K. L. 2017. Common Meals, Noble
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