If you have any questions, you can contact me at ​plush@teacuplion.

com
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Selling plush made from this pattern ​is​ permitted with credit to “Pattern by TeacupLion” ​on your marketing
photos, online listing or the product tag. Please include credit even if you modify the pattern. You may not sell
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Not for use for sewing classes, or mass manufacturing at a factory.
You may not redistribute or sell this pattern or any modified patterns from it.
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Designs, patterns and content © TeacupLion | Page 1

  
This pattern is made best for stretch fabrics similar to minky or fleece. Non-stretch fabrics may not work as well with
this pattern, and pieces rely on stretch for proper fitting and curvature. I have a list of minky suppliers here:
http://www.teacuplion.com/where-to-buy-supplies/

Finished plush dimensions: ​6.5” tall, 5.5” wide (ear to ear), 8” long

Materials needed to make 1 Eevee (WxL, L= yardage, parallel to selvedge)

1/4 yard (7” long, 32” wide) brown minky, soft-n-comfy, or fleece (stretchy and soft)
1/16 yard (5” tall, 13” long) white minky for ear tips, soft-n-comfy, or fleece (stretchy and soft)
Scrap black felt for eyes, dark brown for inner ears

Materials needed for face:

● Option 1: Machine sewn face:​ Sewing machine, scraps of woven fabric (felt, fake suede, felt glue, tear away
interfacing)
● Option 2: Hand embroidery:​ Black DMC embroidery thread, embroidery needle
● Option 3: Painted face:​ Acrylic or fabric paints, paintbrush
● Option 4: Safety eyes (no mouth embroidery instructions included):​ 10mm plastic or glass eyes, black
embroidery floss for mouth and nose

Notions & tools recommended:

● Universal or ballpoint needle (for sewing machines), hand sewing needle, polyester thread, scissors, quilting
pins, polyester fiberfill, chalk or water soluble pen, chopstick and hemostats for turning , thread conditioner for
handsewing, Polyester pellets to help weight the plush

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Machine sewing stitches used:
Running Stitch, Zig-Zag Stitch

Hand sewing stitches used:

Red = showing threads​ | ​Blue = hidden threads​ | ​Dark grey = top fabric​ | ​Light grey = bottom fabric
Ladder Stitch The ladder stitch is used to close openings. Use a color that is close to
the fabric being sewn closed. Stitch in and out of one side side, then in
and out of the other. Pull the thread to close the stitch, and the two
pieces of fabric will be pulled to each other.

Back Stitch Use this stitch if you do not have a machine; it replaces a straight stitch
on machine.

Stitch from WS to RS of fabric 1 full stitch forward, then stitch

backwards half a stitch. Stitch forward 1 stitch for the next stitch, and
then half a stitch backwards into the closest edge of the last stitch.

Whip Stitch Use this stitch if you are doing any hand sewing applique for the face
instead of machine applique or machine embroidery.

Sew tight and even loops perpendicular around the raw edges of the
fabrics. Bring the needle up through fabric 1/8" away from the edge.
Loop around the edge to the side (one stitch’s width) and repeat.

About this pattern:

● “Stretch” arrows on the pattern run parallel with the crosswise grain (major horizontal stretch) of the fabric.
● “Nap” arrows on the pattern run along the way the fur goes. If the arrow points, down, fur should point down so
that when you pet it, it’s smooth downwards (like the back of a cat, the direction goes one way)
● Seam allowance is included, and is 1/4” unless otherwise noted
● RS = Right Side of fabric, WS = Wrong Side of fabric, SA = Seam Allowance
Layout & Cutting Tips
● Print out the pattern pieces, and cut around the outer edge of the black outlines.
● Minky is stretchy, and cutting the pieces separately will give you better symmetry. If you do cut 2 layers of minky
at the same time, make absolutely sure that the directional stretch is the same for each half piece.
● Smooth out your minky, and place the pattern pieces parallel to the crosswise grain/major horizontal stretch,
and that nap(fur direction) is going the same way as the nap arrow.
● You can pin your pattern to the fabric, trace it with pen, or hold it in place and carefully cut around.
● For each piece marked as “Cut 2”, cut 1 piece, then flip the pattern, and cut the 2nd piece. You should have 1
piece each of WS and RS facing up.

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Clipping curved edges:

Pinning tips
● I recommend quilting pins, as they are thinner than regular pins. Use LOTS of pins, I space mine about 1 per
5mm.
Machine Sewing Tips
● For an easier time sewing minky or fleece, use a walking foot to keep both pieces feeding evenly.

Machine Zig-zag Tips

● If you have a sewing machine without a zig zag stitch, use a straight stitch with a 1/8” seam allowance. If you
don’t have a machine, you can whip stitch the details on with a hand sewing needle and polyester thread.
● Set the machine to zig zag stitch setting, and test the stitch length and width on scrap pieces of minky or fleece.
If machine applique is proving difficult, I recommend hand sewing instead, or touching up machine sewing with
hand sewing afterwards.
● Make sure the stitches are wide and long enough so that there are hardly any gaps between the stitches, and
the fabric should not pucker or stretch much. My machine has gaps the first pass through, so I go over the
stitching several times.
● Use a thread color that matches the top applique piece.
● Keep the needle as close to the right edge of the top applique piece as possible, so that most of the visible top
stitches are on the applique piece.
● Sew slowly and adjust the presser foot (pick up, change fabric angle, put down) often around corners for a
smooth stitch.
● Stopping when the needle is down to the right of the applique piece will give a smoother curve.
● For the starting and ending threads, thread your top thread with a hand-sewing needle, and stitch down to the
WS of the fabric, and double-knot the threads together.

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Let’s start sewing!
1. Cut fabric pieces
Cut fabric according to instructions on each pattern piece. Cut out holes for the inner ears, eyes, and mouth.
For felt pieces: trace the face shapes onto felt, suede, or other non-fraying fabric, and cut them out. I recommend taping
small pieces to the felt or suede to keep them from moving around while you cut.

2. Topstitch inner ears

Use the paper pattern to align the inner ear felt pieces.
Hold the felt piece onto the head fabric and peel up the paper pattern. Pin the inner ear felt piece in place and topstitch
with machine with 2mm seam allowance. If sewing by hand, whipstitch on.

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 3. Prepare Face

Face option 1: Machine-sewing (topstitch eyes and zig-zag mouth)

1. Pin and topstitch the eyes onto the face the same way you did with the inner ears.
2. Zig zag mouth (advanced level - hand embroidery for beginners and intermediates in option 2 next page)
a. Use water soluble pen and trace the nose and mouth on. If you are using machine to sew the nose and
mouth by zig-zag, start with some interfacing underneath, a single stitch to stitch underlay. Then zig-zag
the nose and mouth on. Use a wide stitch for the top of the nose, then slowly decrease the width when
you get to the bottom of the nose. See zig-zag stitch tips on page 4 for more help.

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Face option 2: Handsewn applique
1. Trace the face shapes onto felt, suede, or other non-fraying fabric, and cut them out.
2. Align and pin the fabric pieces to the face.
3. Using handsewing, whipstitch around the edges of the eyes, and nose to the face.

4. For the black mouth line and nose, use chalk or water soluble pen to make the lines on the face. Use thick
DMC embroidery thread to sew these details on. Use the below satin stitch for the nose. Then make single stitches for
the mouth.

You can use water soluble pen to draw where you want the mouth to be, or place pins.
Test with your embroidery thread by wrapping around the pins to make sure the smile is cute and symmetrical. I am
stitching this shape, with numbers as the stitching order:

Face option 3: Fabric paint, or acrylic paint with textile additive

1. Trace the alignment markings onto the face using marker, then use small amounts of paint to paint the face on.
Place some scrap newspaper down under the fabric, as the paint can bleed through the fabric. Use a small brush
and make small, downward strokes that go down along the nap (not up and against it).
2. My full detailed eye painting tutorial: ​http://www.teacuplion.com/plushie-eye-painting-tutorial/

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Face option 4: Safety eyes, hand embroidered mouth
This step will be completed later, but you can transfer alignment markings now. Line up the paper head pattern to the
face piece, and use water soluble pen to mark where the eyes and mouth will go.

4. Sew head front to back

Pin head pieces RS together and sew around with 1/4” SA. Clip curved edges.
Cut a 3/4” cut as located on the picture below, on the back of the head. Turn through with hemostats and push out ear
tips with chopsticks.

5. Sew tail tip

Pin tail tip on top of tail and topstitch on with 1/8” SA. Trim away backing of the tail. Repeat for other tail.

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 6. Sew tail
Sew 2 tail pieces RS together with 1/4” SA. Clip curved edges and turn RS out.

7. Sew neck fluff

Pin neck fluff pieces RS together and sew around with 1/4” SA. It will be easiest to sew with just the outer ring first, so
any pins on the inner ring don’t get in the way. When done, turn through with hemostats.

8. Sew body
Pin body pieces RS together and sew with 1/4” SA. Make a 3/4” cut per below and turn RS out. This hole will be the neck
hole later.

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 9. Stuff head, body, tail, neck fluff
Stuff tail lightly. Stuff ears lightly on the head, and the head firmly. For the body, fill the arms and legs lightly with
stuffing, and fill the body with polyester pellets. Stuff neck fluff lightly.

10. Sew tail to body

Align tail to the body on the side that does not have the neck hole. Ladder stitch the tail on with 1/8” SA.

How to Ladder Stitch:

Shown top view in the diagram, horizontal pink stitches are on the wrong side of fabric, inside the plush.
Use some thread conditioner to make hand sewing easier.
Pick a thread color that matches the area you will sew closed. Thread your needle, and knot. Insert your needle into the
wrong side of the fabric near the existing stitches at the top of the opening. Keep the original 1/4” SA, and stitch out to
the right side of the fabric. Sew into the fabric on the opposite piece with 1/4” SA, make a small stitch, and cross over to
the opposite piece of fabric. Repeat, pulling the hole closed with tension on the thread as you sew.

11. Sew head to body

Pin the head to the neck of the body at the center chin, the holes should line up.
Thread and knot your needle with thread that matches either fabric. Use thread conditioner on the thread, and starting
at the front center of the head, ladder-stitch the head to the body.
Sew around twice with regular thread, or once with upholstery thread.
I increased my seam allowance at the back of the head so the plushie looks upwards. My stitch lines are in red below.

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 12. Attach neck fluff
Put neck fluff around the neck, and ladder stitch the two ends at the back with 1/8” SA. When done, sew the fluff to the
neck. Make 2 stitches from the front center head to front center fluff, and 2 stitches from the back center head to back
center fluff.

13. Cleanup
Lint-roll any stray threads, and yay! Your adorable plushie is done! :D

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 www.etsy.com/shop/teacuplion
They’re mostly beginner/intermediate friendly, and you’ll learn new techniques in each one!

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