Chinese Emigration to the IW SS ale FIN Ee A Crip Throvgh BRITISH GUIANA Undertaken for the purpose of ascertaining the candilion of the Chinese uthe have emigrated under. Gouerenment onteact. With mpplemventarn Papers Relating to CONTRACT LABOR and the SLAVE TRADE Bu The Revd. Wim. Lobscheid, ¢.M.1.8.G.8.4,M.2.BS.V., §.Preface. When in 1856 I was obliged to quit’ my mission station on the mainland and under circumstances which brought upon me a severe illness, I was so much reduced in health, that I resolved upon leaving once more tor my native land. - Whilst preparing for my departure, I was requested to assist the local Government in extending Chinese education on this Island, it having up to that time, completely failed to accomplish any thing in that department. Though having always avoided eyery connection with Governments, not having even presented the many letters of introduc- tion given me by influential parties at home, I could, from the moment T accepted the provisional engagement, not avoid having more frequent intercourse with the members of the local Government than before. Though almost all the missionary work was at the time sus- pended, I could not prevent people imputing motives to my engage- ments diametrically opposed to my intentions and purposes. But mat- ters were not left With imputations, they were sent to Europe and cir- culated among those with whom I had long been in pleasant connection and friendly intercourse. When at last at the request of persons of the highest respectability, I lent my influence for the suppression of kidnap- ping Chinese by initiating a new emigration scheme, founded upon a basis of mutual advantages, their triumph appeared complete :—I had left the mission and become an officer of emigration. Not having accepted any remuneration for the services ren- dered to the Government, Mr. Austin had full power to give me a free assaze to the West Indies should I wish to visit British Guiana and Trinidad myself. e Being acquainted with my illness and having been informed by Dr. Enscoe that I must leave for Europe, Mr. Austin did all he could to make me feel, that it would afford him and the Government of Demerara much pleasure, if I would take my route via the West Indies. The following pages contain a plain and unvarnished deserip- tion of my tour through British Guiana, which will be followed by a short account of my trip to Trinidad and of the moral and social condi- tion ofthe West Indies. All that is written in the following ee is, as much as possible, a faithful picture of what I have seen of the life of the Chinese and Natives in British Guiana, and not as it has been re- presented by the “ Hriend of China.”(i) May then these lines go abroad and tell their tale of what they have witnessed in the remote regions of the West. May they remove many a prejudice, correct many an error, and bea guide to such as desire to promote the welfare of their fellowmen. er “Storm King,” Pacific Ocean, 16th July, 1862.(1) Introduction. The stories of the horrors of the Kidnapping of Chi- nese which filled the papers only a few years ago, could not fail deeply to affect every person, who takes an inter- est in the welfare of mankind and who witnessed the woes and miseries caused by the rascality of a few avari- cious men, led away by their insatiable desire for riches. Many a husband was relentlessly torn away from the bosom of his family and made tocomply with the demands of the manstealers at the mouth of the cannon or under the lash of their merciless crimps. Mankind shuddersat the barbarous acts committed by men, who desired to he called christians, and who considered themselves belong- ing to the most civilized nations on earth. England had by the emancipation of the slaves and by the payment of twenty millions of pounds sterling, swept away every stain which her connection with that unhallowed traffic had thrown upon her name, and the vigilance with which she watches over the proceedings of her colonies, makes a renewal of the trade in any shape impossible. But the most powerful nation of this world cannot sub- due that monster, the dealing in human souls, when left singlehanded, and when other powerful nations cover with their flags the rapacity of corrupt men and all their actions. The first lamentable step which the United States did in that direction was her refusal to England the right of search. This having been abolished there were men enough in New York and Boston who would risk their capital in a speculation to the west coast of Africa and China, they having now permission to protect themselves with the stars and stripes of their own country. It is true, the United States kept one or two ships engaged for the’suppression of the slave trade, and a few sla were captured by them since the days when the christian nations declared slavery to be piracy. But a large number of the officers of the U.S. navy being from the south, the slavers and the slaves, instead of being taken to the northern ports, where the African would have been free, were in general taken to the(Tatroduetion.—11.) southern ports, where the liberty of a Negro is a crime, and where the unfortunate victims disappeared from the ships and out of the depots in the most mysterious man- ner. What had become of them was a secret and only known to the initiated. The captains and crews of the slavers were dismissed unpunished and many a culprit might soon be seen in command of another vessel and resuming his mankind disgracing trade in human beings. The mischief arising from the refusal of the right of search is incalculable. The United States opened by it the door to the most atrocious acts ever committed upon help- less beings, and prolonged the sufferings and anguish of those whom we should treat with christian charity and compassion. Myriads of Chinese and Africans were kid- napped, shipped and carried under the protection of the U.S. flag to Cuba, and there sold at auction, in broad day- light and in the face of enlightened christendom, That this is not avague, unfounded accusation may be seen from an article in the New York Times, republished in the China Mail, July 10, 1856, and which I here insert. Commerce in Coolies. (From the New York Times.) “Visitors to Cuba during the past winter have had enlarged opportunities of noting the condition of the Coolie apprentices, of whom thonsands swarm everywhere on that lovely island. On the plantations they have seen them driven to the field oy the mill, like cattle, retained at work with the lash, whipped cruelly for idleness or insubordina- tion. In all particulars, they will have noted their agrestic life suffers in comparison with that of the African, who toils at Ins side; for he is spared, because owned by his master, while coolie servitude is restricted to a certain term of years ; and every interest of the sugar and tobacco cultivator lies in extracting the largest amount of service within that term. Those reserved for domestic offices fare better. Yet, in the cities, the comparison between the African and Asiatic is always favour- able to the former. The coolie, though of much greater intelligence, tact, and industry, is more frequently whipped, more constantly over- worked, more unsparingly abused. They ave hought and sold precisely as the African. When by excessive cruelty they are driven to despair, their refuge is suicide, opium supplying the means, and the expectation of immediate translation after death to the celestial empire, whence they came, the inducement. ‘The number of suicides is represented as frig ht- ful, The scheme of slavery, every future of which is worse in all par- ticulars than negro servitude, sickens the traveller in Cuba at every turn; every domestic duty, including those ordinarily assigned to women, he finds executed in the house where he lodges, by these Oriental(CIntroduction-—11.) slaves—slaves, nominally for seven years, but substontially for lite, since no provision i: made for restoring them to their liomes; avd, while in Cuba, their portion is the inevitable yoke. A_ vessel laden with these wretched creatures was cast away near Havannali on the 28th alto. It was, we regret to say, a vessel owned in New York, and well known in the mereantile marine for its speed, though certainly no evidence of that quality was afforded by its last and fatal voyage from Amoy to Cuba, four months being the time. It left the former port with a crowded freight, decoyed on hoard doubtless by those atrocious and reckless re- presentations which correspondents from that part of the world repext to us as the staple of imposition upon an ignorant and guileless people. Of the 580 embarked, 80 had perished before the voyage ended. What home-sickness, discomfort, privations, and despair—what close crowding in pestiferous holds and cabins, while twice crossing the equator—must have fed this awful ratio of death to life, we can readily imagine, with the aid of data fornisbed in other instances. Unlike the Guinea voyage, the path is long, reaching more than half round the globe. The food is proportioned, not to the wants of the captives, but to a nice estimate of the lowest amount upon which human life can exist, slightly reduced in favour of the profit and loss account of the owner. No occupant of a State prison subsists upon such limited fare. Water is doled out with equal parsimony. Discipline is of the sternest. Of course, discontent with such starvation-diet, and with the first awakening to the fact that the journey is not of a day or two, but of months, and that, instead of being free men and passengers, they are of less consideration than so many quadrupeds, is anticipated and pro- vided against. ‘The crew being comparatively few, the odds are made up by arming them to the teeth. A few examples are always made the first week out. What is the sacrifice ofa half-a-dozen Asiaties in the scale with the safety of the captain and crew? The cruelty systematically practised upon the poor ereatures in order to frighten them into abject submission and silence is described by occasional passengers in such vessels as absolutely demoniacal and heart-rending. ‘Thus beaten, knocked down, kicked, cuffad, stabbed, thrown overboard, or shot, if more than usually troublesome; pent up in quarters filthy and thron, to that degree, that those who survive the fevers thus engendered are enfeebled and wasted to the last tenuity, with no more clothing or means of warmth when doubling the bleak Capes at the south, than when passing under the burning: line, is it any wonder that the loss of but 80 out of 580 should be named as creditable to the officers of the vessel ? Moro frequently 20 per cent are sacrificed on the voyage. Nay, in one instance the captain found it due to his safety to smother fnenely| the whole cargo, over 500, beneath the hatches, notwithstanding it involved subsequently the labour of throwing the dead bodies over- board—a task of considerable magnitude. And this barbarous com- merce, begun in the practice of deception and falsehood upon the ignorant and needy, continued in a spirit of inhumanity at which human nature recoils with horror, and ended in dooming its victims to irretrievable slavery, employs whole fleets of ships and sweeps every ocean.”(Tntroduction.—1V.) By stating these facts, I do not mean to accuse the whole nation of participating in the horrors of the slave and kidnapping trade. American citizens abroad have been foremost in bringing the horrors to the notice of the public; and the myriads of papers, pamphlets and books seatterred through the north, and the voices of millions denouncing slavery and the slave trade, proved at least (though for a long time to no purpose) that there was a christian nation, anxious to stay the lash of the driver and to remove the chain from those in bondage. But their appeals for the emancipation of the slaves only added to the fear of a rupture with the southern states, and the number of runaway slaves increasing every day, the northern states committed themselves once more by enforcing the fugitive law, which had so long been for- gotten among them. Such an act could not fail to cause the most intense reaction from the abolitionists. Talented persons like Mrs. Stowe flooded the United States and Eu- rope with their graphic descriptions of the wrongs and suf- fering of the slaves living in a christian land and under their own roof. The pictures she drew from the daily scenes of a life in slavery made a deep and lasting impression upon the christian world, and filled every eye with tears and every heart with pity and indignation. In vain did the South deny the facts ; in vain did hirelings calling them- selves ambassadors of Christ, endeavour to mitigate the hatred and contempt thus showered upon them and the slave holders by taking refuge in the old dispensation, de- claring slavery a divine institution and scriptural,—they only added disgrace to the stigma of dealers in human flesh, and branded themselves with inhuman and barbarous enactments of laws, which declare the teaching a slave the A. B. C. a crime. Such abuses of the sovereign rights of the people could no longer go unpunished. ‘The storm which had so long been gathering and now conjured up by laws and actions disgraceful to our enlightened age, could no longer be stayed, and is now unloading itself with fearful severity upon the flourishing regions of the South. How many tears might have been spared the widows and fatherless. had they responded to the many earnesta %, (Introduction.—V.) appeals of the christians by a consent to a gradual eman- cipation of the slaves! Future generations would have blessed them, had they followed the example of the Em- peror of Russia, who has, ata much greater risk, liberated 21 millions of his subjects, or four times the number of slaves of the South. But they remained deaf to the voice of humanity, and secretly prepared for a final separation from their sister states. Tt cannot be denied that this resolution was in a great measure precipitated by the protective laws which the North enforced, imposing a heavy duty upon English iron, thus compelling the South to take all their iron from the North ; but at a much higher price and of inferior qua- lity than that offered by England. Local interests which have so often divided the nations of Hurope, appear also here upon the stage of conflict and give the first indica- tion of a growing nationality within the bosom of the young Republic. The North being aware that the South was quietly filling her arsenals, and that she was preparing for a desperate struggle, saw at last no alterative but to elect a President of her own sentiments, who would remove the danger that was gathering in the South before the breach might become irreparable. The South fearing an interference in her domestic affairs, secretly accused the North and their President of a scheme of throwing 200,000 men into their territory, who should act in concert with forces from the North and with one blow emancipate the slaves. However decided Lincoln and his party may have been on the subject of slavery, no sensible man could believe so insane and treacherous a plot to have been concocted or approved by him or any influential person of his party. Hence we must come to the conclusion that the story was coined by the present leaders of the South, and that it was circulated among the credulous and fidgetted people, in order to precipitate the rupture with the North. Things might atter all have remained in statu guo, had not Buchanan thrown the spark into the combusti- bles by declaring secession lawful. This cut the knot at(Introduction. V1.) once;dna t he intention to do so was no longer concealed by the Southern States, who likely fancied themselves ee more sympathy in Europe that the result justi- fied. I cannot here omit stating that the bearing of the United States towards the various states of Europe has often been annoying and offensive ; and entirely forget- ting, that many of the institutions of Europe are owing their continuance to the existence of a corrupt. religious “discipline,” her boasting has been such as if Christ had infused into them anew brain of greater development than either of her cousins of Hurope possess. The North was therefore not quite wrong, in supposing that Europe had an interest in a separation of the states. But as En- rope laments the existence of laws and institutions, which are the inheritance of a darker age, so have the better classes of England and the continent loudly sympathised with the North lamenting the existence of a gigantic evil in her bosom which has occasioned this fratricidal conflict. That the South knew she would find much sympathy with influential individuals of Hurope, was not unnatural. For had she been successful, she would have found a pro- fitable market for her raw material, and might have got in return cheaper and better articles, than her sister states are able and willing to supply. The trade of the U.S. with Europe has during the last twenty years become so gigantic, that I cannot help inserting a few figures, which must convince the most superficial observer of the deep interest the transatlantic states have in the present struggle. The export of a few articles amounted in 1860 to $255,552,351, ze. for Bread- stuffs and Provisions $45,271,850 Tobacco ,, 15,906,547 Rice > 2,567,399 Cotton », 191,806,555 If we deduct the $45,271,850 for Breadstuffs and Provisions, then we have still $210,280,501, which come almost exclusively on southern account. Hence if the South thought the demand for cotton to be so great as to compel the states of Europe to interfere in her favor, she does not appear to have been quite mis-(Latroduction.—VUL) taken ; but she was certainly wrong, if she thought chris- tian Europe would support her slavery and _ sacrifice every better consideration for the acquisition of that arti- cle, Europe has no sympathy with her oppression of the black and coloured races ; and if the restoration of the Union on a better footing, where not only the white, but also the coloured shall be free, is the object of the fed- erals, every true christian wishes them success and a con-* summate victory. For then only may the United States said to be a free country, based upona solid foundation, upon which she will grow toan empire equal in extent and population to the eighteen provinces ofChina. Butif slavery is to be restored without a term fixed for its final aboli- tion, then we may also soon hear of the renewal of the slave trade under the stars of the Union, which will once more throw their dim and feeble light upon many a black deed, committed upon enticed or kidnapped Chinese and Africans. Butleaying such a monsier evil in her bosom, she will soon have to renew her struggle, which may, at an unlucky hour, cause the dismemberment ofa Union, which every friend of peace and liberty hoped to be one day the refuge of the oppressed and persecuted. There is another nation, which has so mueh to do with the slave and coolie trade, that I cannot pass over in silence the many facts which have come to my notice. It.is Spain and the Government of Cuba. I have been told, that there is not a nation or Government in existence, which has passed so many laws for the protection and re- gulation of slaves and contract labourers as Cuba, but that there also exists no place, where the rights of the people are so much violated as on that beautiful island. The Go- vernors are often guilty of the grossest atrocities and violation of their sacred trust, and their counection with the slave trade is said to be sometimes criminal in the extreme. One instance of this kind was related to me last year, andas it will explain many a curious production of Cuban legislation, J hope I shall be pardoned of rela- ting the story as it was communicated to me by a high authority. A slaver arrived at Santiago and was anxious to dispose of the cargo. Todo this in the face of the foreign(Introduction, —VII1.) eonsuls, would have been too bold and impudent, yea to allow it at all, appeared at no little risk to the Governor. Without troubling himself much, he followed the example of his prodecessors, demanding as a bribe 20 slaves. These having been landed, the ship soon moved to an- other place, where she conveniently disposed of her cargo. The Governor then reported to the Captain General the capture of 20 slaves, but regretted not having been able to seize the whole cargo. The 20 slaves were soon profitably disposed of and thus the whole matter ended. Had France and the United States not connived at this criminal] act, Spain would not dare to send a single ship to the coast of Africa. More unfortunate than the Negro is the Chinaman, for he is a free man at home, and many of those entrapped by Cuban agents are of a better class than a field labourer. Hence hundreds of them have committed suicide, and there have been instances, where 10 and 12 have been found dead in the field, all having taken opium to termi- nate their miserable existence. What comfort can a plan- ter give to a person, who is to be his own only for the period of six or eight years, and for whom he has paid from 3 to 600 Dollars? The enormons percentage of losses by acclimatization under the heavy work, added to the many suicides always committed by new comers, compel the planter to get as much work out of the remainder as pos- sible. If we take the average cost of a Chinaman at $1,200 during the eight years (inclusive of purchase money) then the planter has not only to get the daily wages out of the coolie, but altogether $150 per year and the interest on the capital, before he can count upon a single penny of profit. Hence the coolies have to labour from 12 to 18 hours per day, and as the mills are worked day and night, one can easily draw a picture for himself of the miserable life a Chinaman has to lead on that distant island. Only a few years ago there was sold in Cuba an estate with slaves and contract labourers on behalf of the Queen of Spain. The immovable property having been disposed of, the Negroes and the Chinese were sold in one and the same manner, 72. fo the highest bidder,(Introduction. —1X.) In consequence of the many suicides committed on the estates, many of the Chinese have recently been em- ployed as sailors and labourers on steamers and ships. They make the Chinaman do the same work as any other sailor, but pay him $4 per month instead of 15 and 20, and can then do with him whatever they please. I hap- pened to fall in with such a ship from Cuba, when at St. Thomas in the West Indies. There were about 20 Chinese from Canton on board : but they were so closely andjealously watched, that it was diffieult to get into a conversation with them. What a blessing it would be for the world, if slavery were to cease in the United States, for then would this young and powerful Republic soon use its influence for the suppression of manstealing, and no nation would dare to raise a finger on the ocean against England and the United States once more combined in the interests of humanity ! There is another nation, which has greatly partici- pated in the Chinese coolie trade and has, with all pro- fessions to the contrary, allowed the Chinaman to be most barbarously treated in the Guano Islands. The Government of Peru, which has so frequently raised its voice against the abuse of the Chinese, has not done so from philanthropic motives, but from an opposition to private enterprise, it being anxious to monopolize the whole trade for itself. In order to understand those states, where there is so much abuse of power and such a recklessness with regard to human life, we must not lose sight of the peeu- liar constitution of the country. Peru is at present not unlike Poland before her division among her neighbouring states. Instead of a reckless grasping nobility, you have in Peru some thirty six generals and a number of so-called patrician families, all of them quarreling among themselves about the pre- sidentship of the Republic, caring little as to the means they employ for the accomplishment of their object. For if they succeed, they are sure of making so many mil- lions of dollars as tobe beyond any care for the future. The people being lightly taxed, and the country in most(Latroduction.—X.) paris very productive, every body lives in comparative carelessness ; hence indolence and its accompanying vices are the only pictures of daily life and the most striking features of society. The enormous revenue of about fourteen millions of dollars, is in a great measure squandered, leaving every year a deficit of a few millions. The revenue being chiefly derived from the sale of the Guano, every new President adds to the former agencies, in order to sell as much of it as he possibly can during his short reign. The speculators in Chinese coolies having greatly abused their power and most barbarously treated the unfortunate victims of their avarice: the Peruvian Gov- ernment frequently issued notices prohibiting their impor- tation, but has never taken a single step to punish a misereant so as to correct the evil for the future. And as the sale of the Guano is exclusively a government monopoly, it is guilty of all the crimes committed upon the poor China- men, who died in the Chincha Islands like sheep and were not unfrequently thrown away and left to perish, without any person caring for them or giving them a drop of water. What has the Government done when ships like the Lady Montague arrived 2? Nothing’ what- ever, nor does it appear that they feel inclined to do anything for the future. There are at present too agents in China for the Peruvian market, one of them has been my follow passen- geré in the ‘‘Storm King,” which ship he is going to engage for the conveyance of coolies to Peru. As he is coming on a private speculation, I feel it my duty to in- form the public of what a Chinaman has to expect in Peru, Politically the country is in a state not unlike China, —KEvery body’s hand is against his neighbours ; socially considered, it is worse that any state of the American con- tinent. According to Mr. Ramos’ statement, they have 2,500 acres under cultivation and produce annually 1,200 tons of refined sugar, 10,000 bags of rice and u variety of other articles, and that with 360 labourers. This most remarkable statement is to the effect, that “the few men employed by them are able to work the(Introduction. —XI.) enormous extent of area within the limited time of jive hours per day; and that the profit amounts to $100,000 per annum. Tn British Guiana there were estates of about 500 acres, and upon one of them there were 120 Chinese, 160 Hindoo, and other free labourers. These people laboured from 6 to 8 hours per day all the year round. Instead of paying from $300 to $600 per head for the few years’ labour, they only give 55, and yet have great difficulties to compete with slave labour. Hence the swindle of the Cuban and Peruvian agents is too glaring to require further illustration, A person competent to give an opinion on agricul- tural subjects informed me, that one acre of land is as much as a person can successfully cultivate during one year. Hence we must come to the conclusion, that the Chinese in Ouba and Peru are worked more than slaves and that their condition must be a miserable one. And as Mr. R. is to get one third of the profit from the dis- posal of the Chinese, it is evident that not philanthropy, but gain is the object which brought him to the shores of China. Whatever their professed humanity is, it is very clear, that the contracts of the Chinese are to be sold to the highest bidder, and where that is done, there is slavery, call if.as you please. It would lead me too far, were I to repeat the doings of the French at Shanghai and other ports. They would not have dared to have committed such atrocities, had the United Stated acted in concert with Great Britain, and withheld her protection from such as were and still are endeavouring to revive the horrors of the slave and kid- napping trade. Horrors of the Coolie Trade. The “ Lady Montague.” (Hongkong Register, July 23a, 1850; Hobart Town Courier, April 17th, 1850; China Mail, September 9th, and October 14th, 1852; Daily News, July 28th, 1852.) “On the 22nd of April, 1848, the ship Laly Moutague, 763 tons, Captain Wells, left Southampton water for Aden, with coals for the P. & 0. Co, Six weeks after the ship sailed, Captain Wells died, and was(Introduction —X11.) sueceeded in the command by the Chief Mate, Mr. Smith. After some time, this man b>came an habitual drunkard, and ill-treated and neglecied his apprentices. The ship was kept a long time trading between Whampoa, Amoy, Shanghai, and Honekons, without the permission of the owners in England, who declared they knew nothing of her whereabout. On the 17th of February, 1850, she sailed from Camsingmoon with 40 Chinese Emigrants, “who believed they were going to the gold-diggings in California,” but were secretly destined by the Supercargo, (named “ Mur,”) for Callao, to be employed in loading guano ships at the Peru- vian islands. That they had engaged to go to California was evident, because those who spoke English distinctly stated so on the voyage, and it was proved also from the horror and aifright they manifested when they learnt at Callao for what they were destined. «The vessel had been horribly infested with rats since she touched at Aden, and no trouble appears to have been taken to get rid of them, “ Bince then, as has been said, one day’s labour of a hired slave is paid with fl. 1. 50 and 2. 50: is it then right to pay a Chinaman only 39 cents for a task by regulation fixed for a slave? (Tijdschrift :—Nederlandsche—Maatschappyter bevor- dering van de Afschafling der Slaverny, p. p. 74 & 75.)Cour through British Guiana. Before we come to the present emigration of Chinese to the British West Indies under Government contracts, I would say a few words respecting what had been done by the Colonial Government to supply the lack of labour from other quarters. The planters of British Guiana, in antici- pation of the result of the abolition of slavery, introduced in the course of the years 1836, 1837 and 1838 five thou- sand labourers from the West India Islands. *‘ The people were mostly from the islands of St. Christophers, Angela, Montserrat and Nevis, and contributing to the motley group met with in these regions, they deserve some notice At first their number was too few to attract much notice, and their influence on the social state but trifling. Man were employed as domestic servants ; the rest sent to the field : of these the majority were of litle consideration in their own country. Possessed of much of the physical character of the Guiana creole negro, they undoubtedly enjoyed more acute, varied and expanded intelligence. They seemed to be further advanced in civilization ; but also to have imbibed its accompanying vices. A marked disposi- tion to cunning theft and intriyue was manifested among them, and at the various criminal courts which were sub- sequently held, it was notorious that a disproportionate number of them was generally included. They had not led so simple a life as that of the native creole, had been brought into more direct contact with the inhabitants of other countries, and had congregated more in towns... . Many of the deter sort were enabled by their industry to return to their friends with ample evidence of their suc- cess.” The majority of them remained, however, in the colony and mixed with the creoles of the country.2 The emancipated slaves retiring more and more from the plantations, the Government was obliged to look out for labour from other quarters. An attempt at introducing Portuguese from Madeira having been made as carly as 1835, the attention of the Government was again directed to those beautiful islands. Poor as most of them were at home, they readily responded to the call of the strangers from the distant land, which appeared to them still to be the “E) Dorado ;” and with much cheerfulness they left their home and friends to follow, though in an humbler capacity, their glorious ancestors to the New World. More than 85,000 of them arrived in British Guiana within the very short period of about ten years. Accustomed to light work at home and able to sup- port their constitution with plain and simple food, they fancied that a similar diet would enable them to keep their health in their new home and amidst the heavier work on the estate. Not accustomed to the sight of so large amounts of money as they were able to earn in their new sphere of labour, they could not make mp their minds to part with it ; and grudging themselves the necessary food, many of them fell victims to their own imprudence. But the country was too attractive for them to quit it, and in spite of the many deaths more than 30,000 are still in the colony and possessing great wealth. One of these frugal men, who had been brought to the colony at the expense of the Government, was a first class passenger on board the Royal Mail Packet “ Atrato,” and had paid about £40 for his passage to London, whenee he intended taking a passage to Lisbon and Mudeira, in order to see his aged mother and to induce a few friends of his to aceompany him to Demerara. If his awkwardness betray- ed the dilemma in which on almost every step, he found himself, the quality of his dress, on the contrary, was no less indicative of his affuence. Besides these Portuguese, about 28,000 coolies from Caleutta and Madras have been introduced into British Guiana. They have for the time answered the purpose well; but the ruinous system of paying their passage back to Calcutta, having been introduced, they do nothing to improve the colony: and heing satisfied with squatting& upon the ground without a chair, table or bedstead, they create no comforts, nor does their number give an impulse toindustry. Besides, the Madras coolies are much given over to intoxication and manifest everywhere a disposition to indolence laziness and vagrancy. But neither the coolie, the Portuguese, nor the African seems to be capable of developing the immense resources of this extensive and magnificent colony. The Govern- ment, anaious to adopt another mode of procuring labor and upon different terms, directed its attention to China. The only obstacle in the way was the general impression, that the Chinese could never be induced to take their fami- lies with them; and without at least ten per cent of females above the age of 12, no ship was to leave the port. Another opinion equally prejudicial to an attempt being made for procuring labor from China in a lawful way, was to the effect, that emigration was dlegal. — It is true, there are such laws. But when and under what circum stances were they enacted? The population of China has frequently been reduced from 50 and 70 millions to 7 and 10. All socialjties were dissolved, vagrancy and roguery were the prevailing features of the largest portion of the people, and loose sensuality was spreading to such an ere tent, that the Imperial Government was obliged to offer a premium to all pregnant women, who could prove that they were living in /egal marriage. Simultaneous with this curious law, which has not its equal in the whole world, rigid laws were enacted against emigrating to foreign countries. | But as the population inereased, the Government was just as wnable to prevent its subjects from going abroad, as they were of paying the preminm to married women. Hence both laws had become a dead letter and can in no way be applied to our time, when China has a greater population than it is able to support, Having been consulted on the subject of the new emigration scheme, I declared it to be practicable, only requesting permission to suggest such alteration in the contract to be entered into, as I might deem calculated to induce the Chinaman to take his family with him, The Special Government Agent, J. G. Austin Esq., arrived in the beginning of 1859. Bringing with him a4 letter of introduction from His Lordship, the Bishop of Victoria, who having on a former occasion spoken to me respecting the scheme in contemplation, I made a few additions to the stipulations of the contract to be entered into by the Chinese ; but nothing which occasioned any material change in the estimated expenditure. These alterations were approved by His Excellency Lord Elgin, and sanctioned by the Home and Colonial Government. After a lapse of about seven months the sanction of the Home Government to the proposed contract was re- ceived, and at the request of Mr. Austin I issued a notice to the Chinese, assuring them of the honesty of the inten- tion of the British Government to carry out the stipula- tions of the contract. Mr. Parkes, at that time member of the Allied Commission of Canton, succeeded in getting His Excellency the Governor General's sanction and co- operation in furtherance of the object. Yet after all the influence, which was at work at Canton, only a few fami- lies left from that port during the first season, whilst from Hongkong no less than 66 females left in the first ship and 136 in the second. All notions respecting the Chinaman’s unwillingness to emigrate having thus been proved incorrcet, and his anx- iety to go abroad having been substantiated by the large number of females embarking in Hongkong, the rest was now depending upon the reports which the emigrants. would send home, when entire villages were ready to start upon the receipt of the first favorable news. But unfortunately for the scheme, the people from whom this news was expected, were sent up the Corentyn to a secluded place with very little communication with the rest of the colony. Many of these immigrants having come from populous places and souie from Hongkong, felt their seclusion very much, and there being af that place more mosquitoes than in any other part of the country, they took a dislike to the colony, advising their friends in China not to come, until they should receive more favor- able news. ‘ Thus the emigration scheme received an early check, not from the general dissatisfaction of the immigrants, but from the ¢mprudence of sending this lot to so distant5 aplace. There were on the other hand no complaints, no accusations of breach of contract, the immigrants were well cared for and some had saved money. There were other obstacles thrown into the way of emigration. Mr. Parkes, it would appear, had promised Mr. Austin any number of emigrants for the next season ; but be was called away before that arrived. The Spanish, American and French had in the meanwhile esiablished depots for the Ouban market, and the French Commis- sioners claimed the same privileges for the Spanish. as those granted to the treaty powers. The Allied Commissioners, apparently anxious to guard against fraud, appointed for the respective depots, no less than éhree Inspectors with a salary of £500 each, and saddled this heavy amount upon the honest as well as upon the disposer of the emigrant at auction. Ibis true two doliars per head is not much for the Cuban agents, who get from $300 to $600 for the contract ; buta scheme founded upon an honest principle, likely to benefit both parities, is unable the bear the heavy taxation. The city of Canton being held for military purposes, and the civil administration being entirely in the hands of the Chinese authorities aud foreign consuls, the Allied Commissioners had no right whatever to eucumber fair transactions of treaty powers, wor to extend privileges aud immunities to such as gave no security for the fulfilment of the stipula- tion of the contract entered into. The French, anxious to benefit by the favored nation clause, established a depot on the same principle as the English; ut were soon compelled to close it, they ship- ping hardly one per cent of those coming to their place for getting « warm meal and a blanket to sleep upon. But the Spanish agents soon suggested a remedy. The three nations united and established a depot for each side by side. Ali means were conjured up to their assis- tance ; gambling, crimps and bribes; and the few men these three powers could muster, were then packed in an American ship and sent to Cuba and other places. Already in 1859 we received the melancholy news of the loss of the ‘Flora Temple,” with 1,000 souls on board. They had hardly left the port of Macao, when the Chinese6 rose and attempted to take the ship. Though unsuccess~ ful, as about 50 heavily armed men drove them down the hatches, it would appear that anything but calmness reigned in the minds of the captain and the crew. Shortly after this occurence the ship strikes upon a rock ; the Chi- nese are secured below, the boats got ready, and the wea- ther being fine, the captain, surgeon and.crew make off for Touron, which they reach in safety, But what became of the Chinese? Secured below in the between-decks, without a@ single person on deck to open the hatches and to give them a chance of saving themselves, these victims to Cuban avarice soon went down in the ship, not a single one being left to carry the sad news to their friends and relatives! To complete the mockery, these dealers in human flesh applied to the French naval authorities at Touron for a steamer to proceed to the place of disaster in order to rescue those whom they, in their cowardice, had committed to the deep. As was natural, no traces were found of the ship or of the 1,000 Chinese: aii had gone down as if they had been in a coffin. The scene in the ship must have been dreadful beyond description. There was first the terror when the ship struck ; then followed the shrichs of despair, when the hatches were put on, and the boats lowered and provisioned. When all were off, when the ship begun to Jill, the atmosphere became so close as to suffocute many a feeble person, when death was fast. approaching the helpless victims, how frightful must have been the shrieks of an- guish, until they were hurled to the bottom of the sea! Another ship with about eight hundred Chinese on board, sailed for Cuba in the beginning of 1860. She was not far from the coast of China, when the Chinese attacked the guard at the hatches. It was about 7 p.m. One hun- dred men were alternately allowed on deck to breathe a little fresh air, whilst only fvo were permitted to pass up and down the hatches at a time. Two daring men havin, been chosen, they came up stairs and attacked the ate whilst the hundred on deck and those below rushed to the scene in order to secure the arms and the hatchway. The surgeon on board being a resolute and courageous man, soon succeeded in forcing the coolies down, and in puttingon the hatches. The Chinese though forced down, were not subdued; and after a few hours’ consultation another attack was made. Whilst one party was trying to force its way on deck, others were busy in setting fire to the ship in three places. It was with great difficulty that the crew sueceeded in getting the fire under, it having in one place nearly burnt through the sides of the ship. Whilst the force pump was busy and pouring its torrents among the dense masses of desperate men, grape and muskets did their work in breaking through the soli- tude of midnight. The shrieks of the wounded and dying were at last the only voices heard in the between-decks. The storm was apparently over, the fury of the Chinese seemed to have abated; but no body ventured as yet into the between-deck to afford relief to the sufferers. Nearly three hours of awful silence passed away, without anything being done by either party but to gather strength for a third struggle, which was soon to disturb the few that were lying about on the deck with their arms about them. At three o’clock they were roused and again call- ed to the work of slaughter. A third but feebler attempt was made by the Chinese to get up the hatchway. The guns soon silenced them and drove them down. Nothing Surther was now attempted; and when about 5 a.m. it began to dawn, the captain, officers and crew being still under arms, asked the Chinese what they wanted.‘ Li- berty,” was the answer. Being told that this was im- possible, they consented to a compromise, handed up the dead and wounded and allowed some body to get up water and provisions, both parties feeling exhausted. The state of affairs remained gloomy for some time ; and if ever a voyage was made in constant dread and fear, it certainly was the one of the ‘‘ Norway.” But the work of corruption did not cease with the silence of the guns. Sold and doomed to slavery, as the Chinaman now con- sidered his future lot, he gave himself up to all the un- natural vices, that fallen nature is prone to. Of those who survived the awful catastrophe of that memorable night related in the preceeding column, no less than forty were found suffering from the effects of wnatural sins,8 whilst there was perhaps an equal number whose maladies would become known afterwards. Innumerable instances of similar tragedies might be quoted, were I to fill these pages with tales of the woes and anguish of the wrongs of mankind, now hushed into silence and covered with the stars of a nation, which once shed its blood in defence of its right and Uberty, which boasted of a free institution, and of being a refuge for the sufferers from the tyranny and oppression of unjust rulers. Another difficulty arose after the first season was over. Certain parties had been busy in circulating « variety of charges against the Government of British Guiana, and so long as these were not satisfactorily cleared, it was almost impossible for any person of influence’ to further the odject of the Government. Having myscif left Hongkong and proceeded to Shanghai for the benefit of my health, I was unwilling to have anything to do with the emigration scheme, it having brought me in constant antagonism with former acquaintances, some of whom had insinuated the most ridiculous intentions on my part, that I had become an emigration agent and was about to abandon all interest in the mission. Though caring much for the success of the enterprise, which I am sure will one day turn out advan- tageous to both parties, I felt reluctant to accept the invit- ation of visiting Demerara myself, lest certain persons might exult in the truth of their assertions. Whilst waiting for an opportunity to go into the in- terior of China, whence I had received invitations which promised a large field of usefulness to me, I received an urgent letter to return once more to Hongkong for giving some advice, and was promised a free passage down and back to Shanghai. Knowing at the same time that those agents, whom Mr. Austin required to prevent corruption creeping into his agency at Hongkong, had heen with- drawn and that they were unwilling to assist him except they were ordered by me, having also learnt that some agencies had been at work at home predicting the cer- tainty of a failure of the emigration scheme, 1 did not hesi- tate to recommend those agents to assist Mr. Austin, whilst I myself intended returning to Shanghai twelve days after my arrival at Hongkong.9 My stay at Hongkong was unexpectedly postponed for another fortnight. During this time I was invited by H. E. General Crawford, to spend a few days in his much esteemed family at Canton. We met in the steam- er ‘“ White Cloud ;” but I had scarcely been on board for more than an hour, when I was attacked of fever and arrived at Head Quarters a patient. 1 was confined to my room for about two months ; and the physicians having strongly advised me not to go to the North, as my shat- tered health would not stand the sudden change, I had no alternative but to return once more to Ewrope. This resolution imposed upon me other obligations, which I had towards those who. had left China for the British West Indian at my advice. I had promised them, that should I ever visit Europe again, I would come to Demerara and see how they were going on. My resolu- tion to do so now having become known, Mr. Austin kindly desired me to select any of the ships then in har- bour and under engagement to carry emigrants to the British West Indies. This choice having been made and 355 emigrants having been sent on board, we set sail for Demerara on the second of March, and reached the light- house off Georgetown on the 9th of June. The “ Mystery” in which I left, is an eaceedingly fine ship of above 1000 tons register. Her betweendeck is very high and so well ventilated, that I could, even under the line, sit among the emigrants without experiencing anything of that closeness of air, so often felt among so large a crowd of people. A most amusing incident occurred at St. Helena, and as it serves to illustrate the feelings of the Chinese, it will not be out of place here. = Having dropped anchor in front of Jamestown, in sight of the barren, uninteresting mountains of St. H., a few gentlemen came on board the ship to visit the cap- tain. Upon enquiry as to the difference between the men and women, the captain, who had throughout the voyage been exceedingly kind to the emigrants, took a pretty look- ing girl of twelve and showed her to the party. No body had the remotest idea that this innocent joke would make an unpleasant impression upon the emigrants or inspire10 them with fear. Yet ct was so. The rice was served out ; but Little was eaten. The men were seen moving about and closely watching the visitors, as if speculating about their future; whilst most of the women had retired to the between-deck, where they were heard erying or in expecta- tion of being called away from their husbands. Being informed of their misgivings, I went among them and en- quired into the cause of their grief. They then informed me, that. somebody had told them, they were to be sepa- rated from their husbands and to be sold on the island, whilst their husbands were to proceed to another place. Acquainted with the language, I had no yreai difficulty in dissuading them from harbouring such foolish notions ; and in order to remove every doubt from their minds, 1 requested one of the emigrants to accompany me to Long- wood and to Napoleon’s tomb, an invitation, which he gladly accepted. Next day we started, and upon returning to the ship, we were hailed with great enthusiasm. A bouquet of flowers, which I brought with me from Longwood, so cheered the women, that they forgot all the terrifying stories of the previous day. All was joy and joviality, when the anchor was weighed, and we proceeded towards Demerara without accident or other inconveniences. On the 9th of June we came in sight of the coast of British Guiana, if a low flat, with the curious courida is intitled to such a designation. Coming nearer, we ob- served the lofty chimneys of the sugar mills on the ex- tensive plantations scattered along the coast. Our Chi- nese were highly delighted to see again symptoms ,of life and activity, When at last Huropean houses appeared amidst the lovely foliage, in which Georgetown is envelop- ed, when the stately palmtrees were seen softly waving in the cool evening breeze, when the masta of the numerous ships at anchor were showing their motley ensigns, as we were gently sailing through the muddy water towards the lightship to geta pilot,—the joy of the Chinese in- creased every moment, and they expressed themselves satisfied, that they had not been deceived as to the beauty of the country.i No pilot being disengaged to take us ¢h, and the tide being already very low, we had to drop anchor alongside the Lightship until newt morning. Late in the evening I was awakened by the arrival of the pilot, a talkative creole, who told us the most miraculous stories regarding ships, that had arrived from other parts of the world. Whether the love for the wonderful had indited the trage- dies he recorded, or whether some body had imposed upon his credulity, 1 am wnable to decide, —at all events, all was fiction and the events had no existence but in the zmagi- native brain of our marvellous pilot. This remarkable personage was most anious to im- press us with his importance as a first-class pilot, of which he had so much to say, that had we not heard of other large ships having entered the port before, and without our tirst-class pilot, we might have blessed our stars for smiling again upon us and for bringing so experienced a man to our ship. Next morning about 4 o’clock we weighed anchor, directing our course towards Georgetown. Our pilot, who had promised to take us in with one tide, soon assumed a sombre look,—the ship was evidently working her way through thick mud, in which she soon immovably stuck. Our coloured star set for a moment. the anchor fell again, and all was calm and quiet, until the tide was sufficiently high to carry us towards the capital of British Guiana. Drawing nearer the seawall, we observed an immense expanse of crinoline floating in the cool breeze. But how the aristocracy of Georgetown could walk about in a burn- ing, tropical sun without more substantial shelter against his rays, was tnexplicable to me. Having traveled in Java, amidst the lovely verdure of that beautiful island, 1 could easily fancy, how feeble the reflex of the light must be in a place, where everything is clothed in the charming garb of a perpetual spring ; but how ladies could expose themselves to a midsummer sun and yet live in a country, which has so often been called the ‘‘ valley of death,” re- quired a little explanation. I asked for a spyglass and was sorry to see aristocracy and whites vanishing before its nagnifying powers. COrinoline has found its way even to Demerara, where the African and the creole of ail hues12 and shades, from light orange yellow to ebony black have adopted it as the cheapest mode of increasing their volume and of extending themselves over as large a surface of the ground as their gay Parisian sisters. We dropped anchor just at the mouth of the river Demerara, which is here about two miles wide. To our left we had the solid and magnificient sea-wall, which is to keep the raging sea from inundating Georgetown; and before us was the busy crowd of shipping loaded with or loading the principal staple of export; sugar, and the costly timber of the extensive forests, Our captain having hoisted the signal, indicating that all was well on board, there arrived Dr. Johnstone, the officer of health for the port, to inspect the ship and to give the necessary sanitary directions to the officers on board. This gentleman being acquainted with my name from the publication of my correspondence on the subject of emigration, immediately offered his services to me in visiting His Excellency, the Governor, and other influeutial parties, to whom I had letters of introduction. And to facilitate my movements, he invited me to breakfast with him next morning, as we could then leave for the respec- tive parties at our convenience. At 8 a.m. on the 10th of June, Dr. Johnstone arrived at the stelling (asa jetty is called here) where I soon joined him, setting, for the first time, my foot on the con- tinent of the New World. When a person has been in Holland, where man has struggled with the roaring waves of the Bret, where towns and villages have been swept away by the billows or for centuries been burried in the deep, until man had discovered the power of steam, with which he allied him- self and thus recovered the lost batile-field, then we can comprehend the degree of daring enterprise, which was necessary to commence a conflict with the elements in a such climate as Guiana must have been three centuries ago. All the gigantic works of modern civilization vanish before the undaunted spirit of a handful of men, who could live and breathe in an atmosphere poisoned with the exhalations of the marshes and swarming with noxious insects, by which13 they must have been tormented day and night. Only an age of despair and heroism could give birth to men like the Dutch, English, Portuguese and Spanish, and the hope of ultimately discovering the desired ‘‘ El] Dorado” could induce men to venture a settlement in places, where they were surrounded by fierce enemies on all sides, and where the climate often swept away more than half of their num- ber by fever and other maladies. In the intervals of peace, when the planter could venture an establishment closer to the sea-shore these zm- penetrable forests were soon intersected by canals, the marshes were drained, the land cleared of its primitive for- est, and upon the rich, virgin soil rose palaces and villas, whilst the country around them was soon converted into the charming coffee,—cotton—and sugar-plantations. The towns which the Dutch built, were laid out ac- cording to the model of those in their mother country. Canals intersect the streets at right angles, trees line the banks, and slwices close and open with the rise and fall of the tide, to discharge their surplus of water into the ocean. One of these towns built after the model of those in Holland, is Georgetown, now the capital of British Guiana. It is beautifully situated on the eastern bank at the mouth of the Demerara river, and has a population of above thirty-thousand, a large number of whom are Portuguese from Madeira, and creoles. The town having frequently suffered from dnwndation, the Colonial Government has already spent about £100,000 sterling in the construction of a sea-waill, to prevent the further encroachment of the sea. 7AYStBall is chiefly built of granite and porphyry, which is found in abundance fron 60 to 70 miles inland, Extensive quarries are worked by convicts, close to the Penal Settlement, which is about 75 miles up the Esse- quibo, where the Gayuni and Mazaroni discharge their water into the former river, which is here still three miles wide. A portion of the revenue is annually appropriated to the extension of this beautiful and useful ornament of Georgetown, and whilst serving asa battery against a foreign enemy, it gives to the inhabitants of Georgetown a beautiful promenade for recreation in the cool evening14 breezes. Hence it is much frequented by suchas have not the means of keeping carriages and drive round the extensive town. There are wide streets on either side of the canals, which intersect the town, and are now almost everywhere lined with the beautiful oleander, which grows here to a considerable height. The dwelling houses of the Euro- peans are all detached and surrounded by gardens or orchards, in which oranges, palm-trees, pomaloes, breadfrutt trees, and a variety of other tropical plants, many of them indigenous to the soil, grow with great luawriance and con- siderably higher than in China. Looking at the town from the lighthouse or from the tower of Queen's College, the whole appears like a garden and the houses as so many villas shaded by groves of the cabbage and cocao-nut palms, waving gracefully at the touch of the wind. With the exception of the Government Buildings, there is litle architictural beauty in Georgetown. The place bears everywhere marks of great lack of hands to keep the gardens in proper order. The greatest bustle is in that part of the town where the Portuguese live. ‘Their shops are crammed with mer- chandise of every description, but which is not exposed to great advantage. Coming from China and having seen the splendid shops of Canton and Fatshan, 1 got the impression, that the active Chinaman, who quietly studies the habits and tastes of the Europeans, will before long drive the Portu- guese from the market and usurp the trade and industry of these distant regions. All improvements necessarily emanate from the European population of the Colony. Asa connecting link between the Jatier class and the African creole, stands the Portuguese. Being of Awmble extraction, they bear, even in their present prosperity, everywhere the character of awkwardness, and 1 am convinced that much of their apparent antipathy and ingratitude towards customers must, be ascribed to the same cause. Whenever I required the service of a Portuguese, be it on a railway station or elsewhere, he was as obliging as any class of men I met on16 my travels in Hurope or the East, and a trifle dropped into his hand would always draw from him a kiss on his hand anda profound bow as a mark of gratitude. Not being well educated, there is great lack of cleanliness ex- hibited in their shops and dwellings. And were it not for their fair compleaion and light hair, one could hardly fancy oneself among a European population. The residences of the Africans are in general marked by their want of cultivation and drainage around them. Entering their houses, one cannot help smiling at the motley group of ornaments crammed together on a little table in a corner of their s¢ting room, and forming a great con- trast to the furniture in general. The largest and most beautiful edifice of Georgetown is the one for the Government Offices. It is favorably situatedand has a large area of open ground around it. This space might beconverted intoa plantation of a variety of spice trees, of cassia &e., which would give it a cheerful aspect and would greatly contribute to add to the beauty of the lace. A carriage now waiting in front of the buildings is exposed to all the fury of the rays of a tropical sun, whilst it might, at very little enpence, rest in the cool shade of gigantic trees with a luweuriant foliage. The ground is sufficiently dry to justify an experiment of that sort, and the guard of the buildings would be able effectually to pro- tect the trees against wilful injury. There are excellent institutions in the town, and I dare confidently say, that there are perhaps few places abroad, where in proportion to the number of the population so much good is done by the Government and the inhabitants as here. Among the charitable institutions I would class the Orphan Asylum, which is not only under the patronage of Sir Williamand Lady Arrundel, but is under her Lady- ship’s particular care. There are living in it representa- tives of English, German, Portuguese, Africans of different tribes and colours, Hindoo and a variety of other races. Their number, when I visited the institution, exceeded one hundred ; and an examination held in my presence in reading, spelling, geography, dictation and arithmetic proved them to be under the care of an excellent teacher, to whom much praise is due.16 The orphans are instructed in every kind of useful work; and when they have attained the age of fifteen, they are either apprenticed or otherwise cared for; whilst the most talented are prepared for assistant teachers in public or private schools. Ina religious point of view it is founded upon that broad philanthropic principle of entire liberty of con- science. The children, though all attending public service according to the rubric of the Established Church of Eng- land, are fully at liberty to attend any other service on Sundays, or follow any creed they like. Sir William and Lady Arrundel being much opposed to every kind of hon- dage, watch with parental jealousy over the objects of their care, and will not allow one of the orphans to go to a place as servants &c., where they are not treated in the same kind and christian spirit. May he, who has promised to be a father of the fatherless, long preserve the benefactors to these poor children, and may unfeigned gratitude be to Lady Ar- rundel a sweet reward for all her care and trouble lavished withont partiality upon these strangers. There are many other excellent schools and institu- tions in the town, of which an account will be given at the end of this narrative. This then is the town, which I entered with my kind, hospitable guide, who soon introduced me to Mrs. John- stone, a very pleasant lady, who did all she could to make the early intruder into her cottage feel that he was wel- come. His Excellency, Mr. Woodhouse, being absent and in Europe, I presented my letter of introduction to His Ex- cellency W. Walker, Governor of British Guiana, by whom T was very cordially received, and who gave immediately directions to facilitate my movements to such places as I Was anxious to visit. Having been requested to take up my residence at a Hotel, Dr. Johnstone accompanied me to the best in the town, where I engaged a room for my temporary stay in the Colony. Bunt upon presenting my letter of introduc- tion to His Lordship, the Bishop of Guiana, he insisted upon my taking up my residence at his house, which on17 many grounds, I preferred to a residence in the most magnificent Hotel. Having come to the colony for the purpose of ae- quainting myself with the real state of affairs there and of initiating an agency for the conversion of the Chinese, the influence and the co- operation of His Lordship was of the greatest importance tome. Anagency once establish- ed requires constant supervision and direction and that could not be better carried out than by His Lordship, and the large number of clergymen under him and_ scattered over the whole colony, My intention to visit a few estates on the Corentyn having been communicated to His Excellency the Gov- ernor, orders were given to the Superintendent of Police to facilitate my movements by placing at my disposal such conveyances as would enable me to see as much of the colony as my time would permit. The day of my departure for Berbice and the Coren- tyn having been fixed on Fr iday, the 14th of June, I spent the intervening days in acquainting myself with the town and particularly with making inquiries into the relation of the immigrants to the Government and the planters, Mr. Crosby, the Immigration Agent General, kindly afforded me every assistance in his power, by permitting me to inspect all the books connected with his important office. I was particularly anxious to learn, whether there be laws in operation which might interfere with the liberty of the female portion of the immigrants. » Finding the Government encountering great difficul- ties with regard to interpreters, the question naturally arose, how can a person on a distant plantation acquaint the Government with his intention of commuting his con- tract? To this Mr. Crosby answered, that cither himself or a sub-agent visits the estates of the Colony twice a year for the sole purpose of making inquiry into the state of the immigrants and of interogating them whether there be any, who might be anxious of commuting their con- tract. Such a declaration being given, the agent will then hand over to the said party a paper, which acquaints the immigrant with the final terms of his servitude under contract.18 Should he, however, be able to pay the Commnta- tion money immediately, he then gets a reccipt, which he has only to take to the Immigration Office at the ex- piration of the current year, and is then exempted from all obligations to the planters and the Government. The terms of commutation are the following for the Chinese—At the end of the,— Ist year he has to pay $60, ond 5, 5 » 46, 3rd, % » 80, 4th ,, % eet On 5th ,, 4 nihil Women, and ‘children under a certain age, are free, ‘and would, according to the engagement, follow husband and parents. Any party paying the commutation money imme- diately upon his declaration, receives the following re- ceipt,— CERTIFICATE OF COMMUTATION MONEY PAID. Estate, day, the day of 186 The Bearer, No. ex , has this day paid tome thesumof ~ dollars, in commuta- tion for year of industrial service, and will, on the day of 186, be released from further ser- vice on this State, and will. be entitled to demand, and re- ceive, from the Immigration Agent-General, a Certificate of Industrial Residence, which will be able to obtain on or after day, the of 186 , on applica- tion at the Immigration Office, Georgetown, Demerara. Immigration Agent-General. Any person merely declaring his intention of com- muting at the end of the year, rece’ cived a Certificate of the followi ing tenor,— CERTIFICATE OF DECLARATION OF IMMIGRANT TO PAY COMMUTAION. = Estate, day. the day of 186 T do hereby certify, that the Bearer, No. ex has this day declared to me, the undersigned Im-19 migration Agent-General, wish to be allowed to pay the sum of dollars, in commutation of year of Industrial Service, which said sum must be paid, either to the Stipendiary Magistrate of District, or to the Immigration Agent-General, on or before the day of 186, being at least ten days before the expira- tion of the Indenture under which is at present serv- ing. that is to say, previous to the commencement of the term for which wishes to commute. Immigration Agent-General. Tt must be acknowledged that this arrangement, is excellent aud secures to the immigrant that liberty, which he might be anxious of obtaining, when seeing an oppor- tunity for improving his condition. Andas the commutalin? can only be effected atthe end of each solar year, the planter is enabled to make his arrangements for the next year without inconvenience. Whilst spending my time in these necessary investiga- tions and in reading a yariety of communications from the Chinese immigrants, the Government had made arrange- ments for my visit to Berbice and the Corentyn. Mes- sages were sent to the former place to have every thing ready for conveying me to the Corentyn. Early in the morning on Friday, the 14th of June, His Lordship, the Bishop of Guiana, and Ch. Austin Esq., aceompanied me to the railway station. which runs about 13 miles inland in the direction of the coast be- tween Demerara and Berbice. On the station we met the Honorable William Buie, member of the Court of Polie with whom I was to travel that day to Berbice. Having been introduced to thisgentleman I parted with his Lord- ship and Austin and soon found ourselves on our way to- wards the place of our destination. which is calculated at 65 miles. Movin eastwards we had to our right ex- tensive and well cultivated estates, around which are the neat cottages of the farmer placedat short intervals. We passed through a village inhabited by free Africans and other creoles. At*most. all the corners of the streets I observed Portuguese shops, who have usurped all the retail business of the whole colony, and certainly deserve some credit for their enterprise. To our left we passed20 now and then abandoned cotton plantations. The drainage being much neglected, the whole area had nearly reverted to its original § swamp, here and there interspersed with dwarfish shrubs and bushes, upon which innumerable birds of the most beautiful plumage were reuping arich harvest from the insects, with which these marshes swarm. Instead of a deathlike solitude, everything was anima- tion, and the eye of the stranger dwelt with pleasure on the sportive habits of many of the birds restin; rushes or wading gracefully through the different was here everything toa railw ay station in Ku- rope! How different the aspect of nature from that in China, where the plains are teeming with a population full of life and activity ; where the eye everywhere is struck with useful contrivance, and where one observes a degree of restless emulation and rivalry, which is hardly surpassed in any part of Europe. Flow different is the character of the Negro from that of the Chinaman. The latter, though a stranger, would move about on the station, inspect everything, examine every stranger and watch with contemplative sentiments all events passing before hun. Upon our arrival at Balfield, the terminus of the railway, we found the mail-coach, which was to take us some 45 miles further on to Berbice, waiting for us. Hav- ing our baggage well secured aft, we entered the carriage, a light and comfortable conveyance, were it to run over dry and hard roads of mountainous districts, But here, amidst the alluvial soil, where the roads are much neglected, where the wheels now and then plunge into mud nearly up to the axis, and where lumps of clay fly in every direction. as if the vehicle had been engaged to annoy its occupants, our situation. was cer- tainly not an enviable one. Besides, the coachman, who had us now in his power, appeared everything but sober, and drove his horses like a madman, caring little for the warnings of my honorable companion. To guard against the attacks of the mosquitoes, which area great source of vexation in these marshy regions, the sides of the are closed only one foot above ithe cool and pleasant draught, Th the seat, so as to secu21 which these little tormentors of man and beast much dis- like. Hardly had our carriage commenced its race towards Berbice, when large lumps of mud were flying about our heads, dashing with the greatest effrontery into our face, pockets and everything coming in their way. Not yet accustomed to such a way of treatment, I tried to let down the sereens, whi are fastened to the top of the carriage. “‘ Pray, don’t,” said Mr. Buie, “ you will be covered with mosquitoes ;’ and, ‘do not touch the mud,” he added, “ and it will drop off without much inconvenience to you.” Seeing my wisdom of no ayail, [ gladly yielded to the dictates of practical experience, being, besides, already sufficiently disfigured by the novel ornaments and new attaché’s so as to be indifferent to what might further happen. Leaving the railway station and turning to our left, we entered the village, which gives the terminus its name. Here we came upon a detachment of European soldiers clearing the ground, upon which they were to encamp, until the yellow fever, which had broken out among the shipping of Georgetown, had once more departed from those shores. Advancing towards the Mahaica river, which is about seven miles from Balfield, we passed a number of abandoned estates, which were either covered with dense forests, or had been converted into cattle farms, upon which were seen grazing from 200 to 1,200 heads of cattle. These might be seen swimming through deep canals or standing in the water, showing hardly anything of their body but the head. Now and then we passed along a well drained meadow, where thesleck cattle graz- ing wpon it and the green, level ground would remind me of Holland, had we not so frequently been disturbed in our dreams by the strange notes of the birds, or by the uzly noise of the numerous parrots, which inhabit these regions. In these solitudes one may now and then see an alli- gator sunning itself in the grass or on the mud, or to- wards evening, lying upon the road; and there are in- stances, where the clumsy animal was driven over by22 horse and earriage. They are, however, too small here to be dangerous to man; and if the thousands of labourers, who daily cross the canals, being in the water up to their hips are taken into account, one cannot help feeling asto- nished at the rare occurrence of a man being attacked by them. When that has taken place, it has almost always been proved that the party attacked had approached a nest of young, on whose behalf the beast assailed the daring intruder. At one place [saw a calf, which had been bit in the leg whilst wading through a pool of water, The alligators are, however, more dangerous to ducks and geese, of whom they-are particularly fond. They snatch them away whilst swimming on the canals, but are hardly ever seen pursuing them upon dry ground. At the end of the branches of the trees along the road one may see suspended numerous nests of the mock- ing bird swinging gracefully at the touch of the wind. They are sometimes 1,or 14 foot in length having an opening at about 4 of its length beneath the top. It is surprising to see with what agility the bird slips into the baglike nest, making always a great noise, as if to attract the traveller's notice. The most beautiful bird among those moving about on the meadows is the Parra jassana, or spurw@ng, as it is here éalled, It is distinguished from the common sort of birds by two spurson its wings, with which it attacks birds of much larger size than itself. As we approached Mahaica, we passed three magni- ficent estates, one of which is the property of the Hon. BR. Smith, member of the Court of Police The ground to our left was again in the process of being cleared and brought under cultivation. Should, as is now contem- plated, the railway be extended to the Mahaica, the aban- doned estates hereabout will soon be raised to their former magnificence and will be worth more than double the amount of their present value. The bridge over the Mahaica is covered by a roof; and it was here that I for the first time saw a few native Indians exposing for sale their humble but much walued articles of matting, wicker work, nets&e. ‘They approach the foreigner with distrust and timidity, Frequently23 cheated, they retire to their forests with feelings of revenge; and though at present they are a quiet, inoffensive race, they are ‘still dreaded as an enemy. Calling to my mind all the tragedies of former days, how they were forced into slavery, their sacred homesteads desecrated, at last killed like wild beasts, until the voice of humanity was once ore triumphant in these regions, I was deeply affected at the sight of these men, and had my duty not bade me to advance, I would have alighted from the car- riage and spent a few days with a race, whose exterior resembles so much those of eastern Asia and particularly the Japanese Further on we passed a number of Negro villages, which bore everywhere marks of neglect and indolence. The streets and plantations around their houses were not properly drained, the children, half or entirely naked, were sitting in little groups along the road, or sporting in the water, whilst a few plantatian trees were growing amidst the wild foliage of a tropical vegetation. The country bereabout had a dreary aspect ; yet there was a richness of nature, a complaisance expressed on the faces of the little urchins, who stared at us, and a loquacity of the simple blacks, which told one, that they were free from the q@res and restraints of the humbler classes of civilized Europe. Having been living in the most populous country in the world, where at every corner one is stared at by im- mense crowds and examined with annoying scrutiny, these retired regions cast overmy mind a feeling of sadness and melancholy, ands would have preferred staying here for a time, in order to watch more closely the daily life and habits of this singular race. Even here, in these secluded spots, I saw the Portuguese sitting behind a lot of motley articles, which he exposed for sale. Caring little for mo- rality or the welfare of others, he will first of all procure a license for selling spirits which are in great demand among the Africans, to give charm to his night dances and jovialities. Tredding along, we reached, at about 12 o'clock, another river or ereek, as they are here called. It is the Mahaiconi. Its water is of a dark brown colour, as if24 containing a quantity of iron, but would, ifanalized, prove to owe its tint chiefly to decomposed vegetable matter. On its western bank and still in the county of Demerara, there is a police station, in which a magistrate holds his court once or twice a month. A kind of inn being attach- ed, I was invited by the Honorable W. Buie to enter and partake of a little luncheon, as we should not have an- other opportunity to procure one, our time not permitting us to stop a second time beyond the changing of horses at the respective stations. There was a large concourse of coloured men and women around the station, and police men were seen moving to and fro, in order to keep the entrance clear and to usher the contending parties into the presence of the magistrate. Iwas much struck with the gaiety of the creoles, whose exterior told a stranger, that education had been doing something among them in these solitudes ; and as all the parties kissed the Bible in conformation with the law of England, instead of taking the oath with raised hands or fingers, as is the custom on the continent of Europe, I was pleased to observe, that paganism had altogether vanished from these regions, The impression I got of the veracity of these liberated Africans, was not calculated to raise them in my estimation ; but consider- ing a magistrate’s court not~the place where to get the standard of morality of a nation, I did not allow my feel- ings to be prejudiced against a race, only recently freed from the chains of bondage and moral degradation. .. The court was hardly more than 15 feet square, its ceiling being the roof, white-washed underneath, Upon entering I was cordially saluted by Mr. Daley, the magis- trate, who having been informed of my passing along that day, kindly invited me to take a seat on the couch, where I could watch the proceedings of the court. Before open- ing the court, he gave orders for luncheon, and insisted upon Mr. Buie and myself as well as another gentleman, Dr. Brown, to be his guests. Mr. Daley is a very pleasant gentleman, full of good humour, and gives one the impression, that he is anxious to administer the law with leniency and impartiality.25 Whilst sitting there and seeing the room swarming with marabunties, a dangerous kind of wasp, I could hardly comprehend how persons were able to frequent the house without getting constantly into conflict with them. They are most dangerous when provoked and their sting is painful in the extreme. ‘There were under- neath the roof at least 15 or 18 nests of these noxious in- sects, yet they would carefully avoid touching any person by their ingress and egress through the windows. This remarkable fact convinced me again of |" ¢ little danger in which man is, when he endeavours to live in peace with the world around him, Mr. Daley having disposed of the few cases of petty annoyances, we moved into a side apartment, where we partook ofa hearty luncheon. Our host did all he could to make his guests feel that they were welcome, and was very open and communicative regarding the Chinese, with whom he had a good deal to do in his former capacity as Inspector of Police. Not being much engaged for the rest of the week, he resolved to embrace this opportu- nity and accompany us to Berbice. We started at about 1 p.m., and Mr. Daley took the place of the all-important Washington, as our coachman was called. He was evidently proud of his name and position, and knowing his route well, would now and then remind Mr. Daley to keep.with the advance of time, I was much struck with the familiarity in which all were living with each other, Mr. Daley being now en- gaged, and his pocket being rapidly filling with mud, re- quested Washington to get the ‘‘ bundle of papers” out of it, assort them well and pick out a certain document of importance. W. apparently pleased with the important office to which he saw himself raised in the presence of strangers, would now and then indulge inan innocent joke ; but though looking rather gravely at every docu- ment, did not succeed in finding the one mentioned by Mr. Daley. Now and then we passed a solitary inn and Washing- ton was called upon to get a bottle of ale, the only beve- rage to be had here. Being rather slow, he had to take tumblers and corkscrew along in the hurry, as we had to26 reach Berbice at about half past 5 p.w., when the forry£ steamer leaves the western bank of the river Berbice for the last time. There was no noise, no remonstrance at this apparent rudeness; W. became security for things he took away and all were satistied. As we adyanced on our journey, our solitude was soon exchanged for more inhabited regions ; and cultiva- tion improved, as our distance to Berbice diminished. There are many cattle farms on this side of the river, and the coachman has constantly to contest with the herds of g nd sheep lying in the read or sporting with the kids and lambs. We came at last again to an estate, which has been purchased by a large number of Africans. The place bore every where evidences of great fertility. The streets were in bad order, and the stagnant water was reaching the stairease, which led to their much dilapidat- ed dwellings. It certainly requires a high degree of apathy to every kind of comfort to allow the rich soil lying waste, whilst the markets in British Guiana are scantily supplied with the necessary articles for the table of for- eigners. How different it would be, were these regions inhabited by Chinese! Rice andivegetables would be cultivated in immense abundance, cotton and sugar would be produced in any quantity, and British Guiana might be to the British West Indies, what Egypt was to Rome— the store-house of grain and other necessaries. Leaving the Negro plantation, we come to one be- longing to creoles. The same was better drained and cultivated than the former, but formed a great contrast to the next owned by a European. Where there are so many hands as on that of the Africans, there drainage can cer- tainly not be a question of money, for they have to spend hardly anything upon the ground cultivated for vegetables and fruit; hence their property should be like a garden, producing abundance of provisions. As we passed the estate belonging to the European, i saw for the first time an alligator about 33 feet long resting on the mud. Undisturbed by our advance, the lazy brute remained as motionless as a piece of wood, and27 [ should not have seen it, had not Mr. Buie pointed it out to me. It was now half past 5 p.m., as we took our last turn round a corner of a sugar plantation. Before us, at about five minutes drive, there opened the magnificent river Berbice, which is here about five miles wide. The day had been remarkably fine, and the sun was still illuminating the beautiful town of New Ams- terdam, or Berbice, on the eastern bank of the river. The little steamer was waiting to take us over to the other side. Having dropped a few shillings into the hands of our good humourd Washington, we parted with him with yery pleasant feelings, he having not only done his duty well, but cheerfully. Mr. Buie gave me a hint not to care for my baggage, as he had ordered it to be taken to the steamer. Having shaken off as much mud as we possibly could, we took our seats on this little model of civilization, which soon brought us to the capital of the county of Berbice. The town has a more pleasing aspect from the river than Georgetown, which is chiefly owing to the absence of wharfs and jetties. has a population of about 3,000 souls, a few handsome churches and chapels, but no other edifices of importance. As we reached the other side, there came a few gen- tlemen to meet me. They were accompanied by the In- spector of Police, who had received orders to wait, upon me and to inform me of the arrangements the Govyern- ment had made for my conveyance to the Corentyn. Mr. Buie having introduced me to the gentlemen, who called upon me, I parted with him, but in the hope of seeing him once more at his residence. I then entered the carriage of the Revd. Mr. Sealey, who had been requested by His Lordship, the Bishop of Guiana, to take me to his house during my stay at Berbice. é It was pleasant to meet ~e so cordial a reception in this distant land. Seeing the Government so willing to afford me every opportunity of seeing as much of the cul- tivated part of the colony as my limited time permitted, I entertained much hope, that my visit to the same might28 be a means of promoting the interest of all the parties concerned in the future of British Guiana. I soon found myself at home in Mr. Sealey’s family, where I made the acquaintance of a few ladies and gentle- men, who had been invited to spend the evening in our company. Whilst the young ladies of the house anda few visitors were entertaining the company by their music and pleasant songs, I was able to collect some valuable infor- mation respecting the state of the colony. _All the gen- tlemen present took much interest in the introduction of Chinese into the colony and were anxious to know in what manner they might best promote their welfare. At nine o’clock I was informed by the Inspector of Police that the Revenue Cutter ‘ Pfeasant,” which had been ordered to take me up the Corentyn, would be ready for starting at about 9 A.M. next morning June 15th, and desired to know which time would be most convenient to me. Being anxious to reach Skeldon on the Corentyn as soon as possible, I gave orders for leaving at the time fixed by the Commander of the Cutter. Tt was then arranged that the Revd. Mr. Lathbury and a policeman should accompany me, as I could gather some authentic information from the former gentleman, whilst sailing along the coast and up the river. Next morning we embarked in the very neat Cutter, under the Commandof Mr. Hollensworth, an exceedingly pleasant, experienced and well informed gentleman. The morning was fine, but too calm to make much progress. At last the seabreeze sprang up and we glided gently over the water towards the Corentyn. The coast is here a little higher than about Demerara, though not under cul- tivation to such an extent as there. At about 5 p.m. we reached the mouth of the Coren- tyn.

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