VESTS MAKE THE MAN

Posted by Don under apparel design | Tags: fashion, menswear, patterndrafting, sewing |

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Leather vests are an ideal fashion in traditional or western design for all seasons. It makes a bold statement when

worn as outerwear when the weather is too warm and unforgiving for a jacket. Vests with simple styling and function

can replicate your looks and will make you look simply outstanding. So get in this garb and feel the punch in any

season.

You will need:

 cowhide leather
 kasha lining
 fusible interfacing
 coordinating polyester thread
 double-sided leather tape, 1/4″ wide
 leather machine needle
 4 dome snaps
 bone turner

MEASUREMENTS

Chest – measure just under the arms around the upper body.
Back waist length – measure from nape of neck to waistline.

Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.

PATTERN

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Draw a straight line and locate a point. Label X.

1 from X = back waist length + ½”

2 from 1 = midway between X and 1

3 from 1 = 3″

Square lines across the paper from these points.

4 is located midway between X and 2

5 from 1 = ½”

Join 4 and 5 with a straight line.

6 from 5 = ½”

7 from X = 3 ½”

8 from 7 = 1″

9 is located where line 4-5 intersect line 2

10 from 2 = ½ chest measurement + 3″

Square up and down from 10.

11 from 10 = 1/3 the distance from 2 to 10.

Square up and down from 11

12 is located at intersection of line 1.

13 is located at intersection of 1 and 10.

14 from 2 = ½ back width + ½”

Square up and down from 14.

15 from 14 = 1″

16 from 11 = 1″

17 is midway between 15 and 16.

Square down from 17 to locate 18 and 19.

20 and 21 are ½” on either side of 18.

Shape the side seam as shown.

22 is located at the intersection of X and 10.

23 from 22 = 3 ½”
24 from 10 = 1″

Join 23 and 24 with a straight line.

B from 16 = 6″

C from 11 = 6″

D is located midway between B and C.

Join 8 and D with a straight line.

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25 from 8 =  4″

26 from 23 = 8 to 25

Shape armsyce with a deep curve in the front and a shallow curve in the back.

27 is the intersection of 10 and 3.

28 from 27 = 2″

29 from 28 = 2″

At point 12, draw a welt pocket opening 6″ x 1″ as shown.

Shape the front hem as shown.

Trace off the front of the vest, from the shoulder down to the front, and the bottom edge to the
side seam. Make a front facing pattern with at least 1 ½ inch width at shoulder and hem.

Trace off welt and double its width. Add seam allowance.

CUTTING

Vest Front – cut 2X

Vest Back – cut 2X

Vest Facing – cut 2X

Front Lining – cut 2X

Back lining – cut 2X

Front interfacing – cut 2X

Welt – cut 2X

ASSEMBLY

1. Sew the welts onto the front sections of the vest.

2. Place the vest backs right sides together. Leather tape the back seam. Sew the CB seam. Flatten the seam
with a bone turner and clip seam allowance if necessary.
3. Place the vest back and vest fronts right sides together. Leather tape the back and front together along the
shoulders and sides.
4. Stitch the vest back and fronts together along the shoulders and sides, using 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Flatten the seams with a bone turner.
5. Iron the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the front facing using a low heat setting and presscloth.
6. Sew the front lining to the front facings.
7. Sew the lining fronts and back together the same way as the outer portion in step 3 and 4.
 8. Place the vest and the lining right sides together, lining them up along the edges, and use small paper clamps
to keep them together. Stitch the vests along the front and neckline, and around the armholes. Stitch along
the lower edge of the vest front, leaving the lower edge of the vest backs unstitched.
9. Turn the vest right side out. Use the bone turner to gently push out the edges of the vest.
10. Turn the un-sewn edges of the lower back to the inside of the vest, so that the folded edge is even with the
rest of the back. Press the folded edges under, and leather tape them together.
11. Top-stitch along the outside edges of the vest and the armholes. Make sure the lower edge of the back of the
vest gets sewn closed in this seam.
12. Apply the snap domes to the front of the vest following the manufacturer’s directions.

(Note: A man’s vest closure laps from left to right).