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in: Accessories, Cologne, Featured, Style & Grooming

Antonio • February 11, 2019 Last updated: March 11, 2020

A Man’s Guide to
Fragrance: How to
Choose and Wear
Cologne

On my recent trip to Atlanta I was the last person to

board my plane.

I asked the stewardess if I could check my bag, and as

she reached over to grab my luggage she immediately
looked up and said, “You smell wonderful!”

Now I’m a married man, but I have to admit that this

compliment from a beautiful woman had me feeling
good the entire flight.

And that’s why this matters, gentlemen.

Fragrance is an invisible part of our personal style,

and it has a powerful effect on how people see and
remember you.

A good cologne offers numerous benefits, from making

you more attractive, to helping you feel less stressed
and more confident.

And yet 80% of men do not wear fragrance on a

regular basis!

Why is that?

I feel the main reason is a lack of basic information

and education. Most men who use colognes and
perfumes do so because they had a father or role
model who introduced them to the practice. Here in the
U.S., the industry is dominated by women and most
men are ignorant of the terminology.

Additionally, there is a strong fear of overusing

fragrance and the repercussions it can have on our
reputation. No one wants to be known as “Pepe Le
Pew.”

Thankfully, a working knowledge of how to understand

fragrance and wear it well is easily within reach, and
we’ll provide it to you today!

Why Wear Fragrances

Wearing a fragrance will increase not only your
attractiveness, but your confidence with women (and in
general) as well.

Wearing a fragrance will make you more attractive

to women. In choosing a mate, smell is most important
for women. In a European study it was shown that
while visual cues are most important for men in
choosing a woman, scent is the most powerful factor
for women in choosing men. A man uses his eyes first
and foremost, while a woman uses her nose (even if
she doesn’t know it!).

Additionally, women have a better and more finely-

tuned sense of smell. Starting at birth, women
consistently outperform men in smell tests, in both
identification and detection. In fact, women’s noses are
even specifically tuned to be sensitive to male
pheromones (scented sex hormones). Fragrances
combine with these scents to form an even more
memorable and attractive olfactory experience.

A fragrance can foster deeper emotional

connections with people. Smell is the most powerful
sense. It is in fact 150,000 times more sensitive than
your vision, and capable of perhaps detecting over a
trillion unique odors (our puny eyes can only detect
about 7,000,000 colors, and that’s a high estimate).
Smell also triggers memories better than any of the
other senses because the olfactory bulb is directly
connected to the limbic system, sometimes called the
“emotional brain.” Powerful and unique scents = deep,
emotional connection. Some of my only memories of
my father are the way he smelled when he hugged me
as he headed off to work. If I smell that same scent
now, a picture of him comes flooding back to me.

A nice fragrance adds to your overall impression of

being a sharp, put-together man. We know that
dressing well ups your confidence. You just feel better
when you look nice. Wearing a cologne enhances that
feeling, as you’ll be confident that you not only look like
a million bucks, but smell like it too.

You should be realizing the importance your scent

carries in the world, even in non-dating and non-sexual
encounters.

Next, let’s take a look at what makes up and defines

the fragrances you spray on your body.

What Are Fragrances?

A fragrance is a complex mixture of what people in the
perfume industry refer to as raw materials. These raw
materials can be extracts from natural sources or
synthetic raw materials.

Perfumed oils are dissolved in a solvent (usually

alcohol) to preserve a pleasant concoction of scents. A
higher concentration of oils usually means a stronger
fragrance. The strength of the fragrance determines
how long an application lasts on your skin.

It’s important to note that every fragrance smells

different on every person. It’s this uncertainty and
complexity that intimidates many men, but if you look at
it as a process of discovery, it can become an
enjoyable journey.

What is the Difference

Between Fragrance,
Perfume, Toilette, and
Cologne?
Fragrance cologne Concentration Guide

Fragrance is a unisex, generic term used for perfume. It

comes in many forms and is called different names but
generally falls into these categories:

Eau Fraiche. The most diluted version of fragrance,

usually with 1-3% perfume oil in alcohol and water.
Usually lasts for less than an hour.
Cologne (Eau de Cologne). Oldest term for
perfume, used in North America for masculine
scents. Light, fresh, and fruity, typically composed of
2-4% perfume oils in alcohol and water. Tends to be
used in fragrances for younger people. Usually
lasts for about 2 hours.
Toilette (Eau de Toilette). A light spray composition
with 5-15% pure perfume essence dissolved in
alcohol. Usually lasts for about 3 hours.
Perfume (Eau de Parfum). Historically genderless,
used to describe both men’s and women’s products,
and is the best term for describing a fragrance. (I’ll
be using cologne more in this post though, simply
because that’s the term most readers associate with
fragrance.) Contains 15-20% pure perfume essence
and lasts for about 5 to 8 hours.
Parfum. A corruption of the Latin phrase per fumum
(through smoke). The most concentrated and
expensive of all fragrance options. Slightly oilier,
parfum (or perfume; you can see how these terms
get confusing!) is composed of 20-30% pure
perfume essence. A single application can last up
to 24 hours.

The Life Cycle Of

Fragrances
fragrance cologne life cycle illustration

Fragrances have a three-part life cycle; think of an

evaporating pyramid where the top slowly disappears
until you reach the base. Each of the three sections
contain individual scents, or notes, that are belted
together into what you smell.

There are three different types of notes that comprise

the scent of most fragrances: top, medium, and base
notes:

Top note. The top note is the initial, lighter smell of

the fragrance that hits the nose immediately after
application to the skin. The top note lasts from 15
minutes to 2 hours. Typical top notes are various
light floral scents, citrus, fruity scents, powdery
scents, marines and aquatics, and spices such as
cinnamon.
Medium note. Also referred to as the middle
or heart notes. The middle note showcases the
main element of the fragrance. Middle notes
develop after the top note clears and can last 3-5
hours after being sprayed. This is in addition to the
top note; they build off each other. Heart notes most
often include heavier floral scents such as jasmine,
or green scents such as grass or stone. Spice
scents such as cinnamon and clove can appear
here, along with fruity scents as well.
Base note. The last to develop, these scents are
often the bolder notes of the scent which become
more noticeable later in the day. Base notes lay the
foundation and will determine how long the
fragrance lasts on your skin. They tend to last from
5 to 10 hours. Typical base notes are sandalwood,
moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco,
and musk.

Below you can see just a sample of the wide range of

scents available. The four main families are a general
guide — you’ll want to explore each and find the scents
within them that you enjoy and want to make your own.

As the notes dry up, the scent will change, allowing for
the fragrance to evolve and become more interesting.
Typically, the mark of a low-quality fragrance is if it
remains monotone throughout its life. Although this isn’t
always the case…

Linear vs Non-Linear
Fragrances
Some fragrances will smell the same to you or on you
from the initial spray up until you wash it off; these are
called linear fragrances. Others — called non-linear —
will change and go through the layers of notes over
time.

Most quality fragrances will have the fragrance lifecycle

as stated above. Oftentimes, low-cost fragrance
manufacturers won’t invest in this complicated
orchestration of scents; thus one of the easiest ways to
identify a cheap perfume is that it smells the same the
entire time it’s worn.

However, there are quality linear fragrances, as they do

have their purposes. At work I may want to just have a
citrusy/clean smell all day instead of a citrus that then
turns into a musky leather after lunch. Contrast this to a
date night where I might want a nice inoffensive fresh
citrus that transitions into a smooth vanilla lavender as
we end the evening.

The Two Types Of

Fragrances: Designer &
Niche
Designer fragrances are what you will see in most
stores. These fragrances, made by companies like
Armani, Chanel, Burberry, and other designer
brands, cost between $25 and $150 a bottle. These
fragrances tend to be mass-produced, and are
designed for mass consumption. They are made for
a wide-reaching audience and are typically safer
(meaning they stay away from strong reactions).
They also tend to be made from cheaper materials
to save costs and enable volume production.
Niche fragrances are made from more
expensive/higher-quality ingredients (usually).
These are the perfumes created by industry artists,
made for a more selective customer who wishes to
wear something distinctively bold or unique. These
fragrances will not always have the universal appeal
of a designer fragrance. Instead, they accept not
everyone will like their bold scents. They are sought
out by the fragrance aficionado who wants to push
the boundaries. They typically cost over $50 and
can go into the multiple hundreds.

Pricing: The Economics of

Perfumes
More money does not necessarily mean better a better
fragrance. Some of the most popular fragrances of the
past hundred years were relatively cheap formulas. It is
possible to mix expensive raw materials and end up
with a smelly mess.

One of the biggest drivers of price is the amount of

perfume oil concentrate a fragrance contains. Although,
often what you end up paying for is the marketing cost
and the image associated with a brand rather than the
cost of raw materials comprising the scent.

Major brands create perfumes that are part science and

part marketing. They have a familiar feel to all their
perfumes. Ralph Lauren perfumes, for instance, are
made to have a family of familiar scents. If you’ve worn
one for a decade, the newest Polo perfumes should
feel comfortable to you, even if it’s not the same scent
you are accustomed to.

How to Select and Buy the

Right Perfume/Cologne
Scientific studies suggest that a man can naturally
select the cologne that works best with his natural body
scent.

Let me stress this point: you are the best person to

determine which scent suits you.

Don’t let others choose for you — there is a reason why

gift scents sit unused for years.

Instead, use the opinions of others to reinforce or

question your decision. Only if multiple people tell
you your scent is off or a poor choice should you try
something else.

Also don’t blind buy, which is when you purchase a

cologne on someone’s recommendation without trying
it yourself.

The best method to find a new fragrance is to test if

the perfume complements your natural body odor
in person over the period of a day.

Department stores are great for this purpose, just

ensure you don’t buy until ready (it’s easy to fall for the
first note). The maximum number of scents to try at
once is four, although I recommend only two (one each
arm) if you’re just starting out.

1. Spray one scent on each wrist (and each inner

elbow if going for four).
2. Avoid the cards the department store provides to
smell the colognes. They enable you to only smell
the top notes and not how it smells on you
(remember, this is a chemistry experiment).
3. Between smelling each cologne, refresh your palate
with something strong, like coffee or tea.
4. Try to smell all the notes. As we have explained you
can expect the scent to change over the next few
hours.
5. Walk around the department store and smell the
fragrances at various intervals. Take notes on your
phone or journal as to which you like and why.
6. Purchase a bottle of your winner and start to wear.
Wearing a fragrance is a process, not a destination.
Many men end up owning and loving dozens of
scents, so don’t feel you have to get it perfect with
your first (or tenth) buy.

Which size fragrance bottle should you buy?

Fragrances come in many different bottle sizes, but
they usually range from 1 oz. to 3.4 oz, or even bigger
bottles as well. If you are new to fragrances buy the
smaller bottles simply because it is a lower risk. You
don’t know how often you will be wearing it, and your
tastes will probably change once you get the chance to
smell different scents.

Fragrances do not last forever on the shelf. Rapid

heat fluctuations like those found in most bathrooms
will cause the molecules in a fragrance to break
apart. Sunlight does the same thing (so avoid window
sill storage). Extend the lifespan of your fragrance by
storing it in cool, dark, dry environments. Bedroom
closets are a great place.

Rules For
Fragrance Application
how to wear apply cologne illustration

We’ve all been around men who used too much

cologne. The scent is overwhelming and off-putting.
You can easily avoid this mistake by learning how to
apply fragrance properly and judiciously.

Spray perfume on dry skin, preferably right after a

shower. Hold the spray nozzle 3-6 inches from your
skin while applying.
Start light. If you’re new to wearing
fragrances, start with one single spray on your
chest. As you become more comfortable and
knowledgeable about how to wear cologne properly,
you can branch out to a few more sprays in different
areas…
Apply fragrance to heat areas. Your body heat will
push the scent throughout the day, creating a nice
scent trail commonly called sillage. Start with the
warmest parts of your body: chest, neck, lower
jaw, wrist, forearm, inner elbow, shoulder. Do not
spray on all these points at the same time; start with
one and then as you learn the scent, spray 2-3
other spots. I do not recommend spraying your
crotch area; if you have issues there then check out
Brett’s article on swamp crotch.
Re-spray only when required. You can add more
sprays to your wrists depending on how long the
scent lasts. For most this will be in the second half
of the day.
Don’t kill the note. Rubbing the perfume into the
skin seems a sensible thing to do. In reality, it
breaks the molecular bond, making the scent
weaker.
Don’t spray and walk. Spraying a fragrance in the
air and walking through the mist is worthless. Most
of the fragrance drops straight to the floor.
Don’t spray fragrance on your clothes. In this
case the fragrance isn’t allowed to mix with your
oils, and hence it can’t naturally go through the
stages of notes like it should. Also, the oils in a
fragrance will stain many fabrics.
Don’t splash. If you are applying cologne from a
regular bottle, take one finger and press it against
the opening of your bottle and then tip it over gently.
Dab onto the parts of the body described above.
Less is more. Fragrance should be discovered, not
announced. People who are close by should be
able to smell your cologne, but not be overpowered
by it.

Conclusion
As we’ve seen, smell is actually our strongest sense. It
is connected to our memory and we can develop deep
connections to our emotions. Wearing a fragrance is a
distinctive way of expressing yourself beyond the
visual. It makes you memorable and forms an
impression.

Once you find some fragrances that you feel

comfortable wearing and build an appreciation for
colognes that complement your natural scent, you’ll be
well on your way to exploring this interesting olfactory
world.

Watch a Video Recap

A Man’s Introduction To Fragran…

_______________________

Written by Antonio Centeno

Founder of Real Men Real Style

I am working on a line of science-based fragrances at

Real Men Real Style that will be delivered via a process
to help you determine your best scent effortlessly. If this
sounds interesting, click here to learn more as I’m
looking for a few men to help me grow this business!

Want to learn more about fragrance? Click here to

check out my research-backed fragrance articles.

Click here to grab any of my 4 FREE ebooks on Style,

Beards, Sunglasses, or Custom Clothing

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