Professional Documents
Culture Documents
LESSON 3:
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type of aromatherapy bracelet is a way for people to just, one, take a nice deep, full inhalation, which helps to
bring about a relaxation response, but it also allows us to tie very directly into our sense organs.
By tying into our sense organs, it allows us moments of grounding and so it helps us just remember where our
center is and to be able to move through our day moving from that place.
One of the other things that I feel is a bit of a disconnect in our culture is that our noses have become quite
accustomed to synthetic scent. Rewilding ourselves by being able to reacquaint our bodies with plants or with
aromas that are coming from a natural plant source is a much healthier way of us breathing things in than using
synthetic scents.
THE COMPOSITION OF PERFUME
If we were to organize a perfume composition, we would think of it similar to music. So, in perfuming, we talk
about an accord. An accord is a series of notes: a top note, heart note, and base note, that come together to
create a final composition.
So, very much the way an orchestra would work, if the drums were overpowering the violins or the cellos were
overpowering the flutes, there would be something lost, and it would feel more chaotic. So, the rule of the
composer is to make sure that all of those elements are working to create a beautiful outcome.
So, understanding the different qualities and the different diffusion rates of the notes is important. If we’re
looking at top notes, top notes tend to diffuse more quickly, and those would be things that most people are
familiar with in terms of the culinary world.
Citrus would be one form of a top note and people might think that that would be limiting on some level, but
there’s a lot of variety in terms of citrus. So, we have many different types of orange, many different types of
grapefruit, and it is something that most people are familiar with.
The other thing that would fall in our top note category would be different types of spices, so things like black
pepper or pink pepper, different types of herbaceous elements, like basil or tarragon. So, a lot of the culinary
spices that people are familiar with and that they have on hand in their pantries could be utilized as a top note
accord.
In order to create a perfume though that has longevity, we need to have other things kind of holding that up.
Because although these are refreshing and crisp and beautiful, they are going to diffuse at a much more rapid
rate.
So, oftentimes when we see body splashes and things of that nature, people are using a lot of citruses, but in
order for that to have longevity on the skin, we need to have other plants underneath that that have a slower
diffusion rate that’s going to help to sort of anchor the fragrance to the skin.
So, if we’re looking at heart notes, heart notes would be a lot of our florals. So, things like lavender absolute. So,
lavender essential oil actually would be a top note because it diffuses more rapidly, but lavender absolute is a
little bit thicker, a little bit more viscous. Heart notes tend to have more of the mediation role. They sort of create
some complexity and some interest to the formulation and are often the more expensive price points, if people
were to be purchasing essential oils or absolutes.
So, anytime you see the word absolute, typically speaking, but not always, it would fall into the heart note
category. Other absolutes would be things like a fir absolute. So, a lot of the fir absolutes have a sweeter type of
aroma to them.
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So, base notes are the things that people often associate with the spice route of long ago. These were prized
resins and incense and balsams and sometimes lichens or even grasses that people would travel long distances
for. These were the types of ingredients that were used to honor gods and to show respect for kings and
queens. These are things like frankincense and oakmoss and vetiver and patchouli.
These are the types of ingredients that are a little bit more difficult to work with, often because of their viscosity.
Usually, they need to be diluted in order to work with them more effectively. And just one drop too much is
enough to overpower your entire fragrance.
They’re also oftentimes prized and even at times endangered. If we’re thinking about things like sandalwood, we
want to be really mindful in our consumption of some of these things, because they are endangered plants. So,
always making sure that we’re accessing these things from sustainable sources is really important. Especially to
me, it’s something I try really hard to be mindful of.
And also thinking creatively about how you can find some of your own base notes in a bioregional way. In my
case, I live in the Northeast, and so I have access to a lot of different evergreens. I can use the resins from those
trees to create base note accords in a way that’s a little bit more sustainable and a little bit more ethical.
THE COMPOSITION OF PERFUME
When we think about the ethical use of aromatic plants, we see a lot of media these days talking about the
endangered sandalwood, the overharvestation of white sage, the over-usage of palo santo. And I think that’s
what’s important for us to recognize and realize, is that it is our responsibility to give back on some level, so
making sure that we are using methods that perhaps wouldn’t require the same volume of plant material in order
to produce it.
So, for example, when we are creating an essential oil, we’re looking at many, many pounds of plant material.
This is actually a 20-liter still, so you’re looking at several pounds of plant material that would need to go into this
in order to produce a very small amount of essential oil. We have to think about maybe other methodologies that
we can use where we’re using less of a precious plant material but still getting an aromatic product. It may not
be as strong as if we’re using essential oils, but we can then use less essential oils on top of that to reinforce it,
than just only straight using essential oils.
The other thing to think about is being culturally sensitive in terms of using plants from other cultures. One of the
things to maybe think about is your own ancestry and kind of identifying different aromatic plants that come from
your culture. If you’re unsure of your cultural roots, you can start just by taking it from more of a bioregional
perspective. So, getting creative in terms of what’s growing in your backyard. You know, what types of plants
could operate as a base note, a heart note, or a top note for you. What are things that you could grow in your
garden that have some type of emotional or even astrological significance to you as an individual?
Some of these ancient techniques have been around a really long time, but we’ve forgotten a lot of these things,
so one of the things I find most fascinating about this work is the historical piece. So, it’s exciting to find old
books or old documentation that show ancient Egyptian ways of extracting scent.
And what’s interesting is that a lot of these methods are things that herbalists use all the time, but we think
about it more in terms of pulling chemical constituents out of plants to be used internally or topically for like skin
healing, but we don’t really think about it in terms of how we can use that as a layering system for scent.
EXTRACTION METHODS
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So, one of the methods that we can use to extract scent from plants would be maceration. Maceration would be
taking a base oil, something like an olive oil, something that’s going to give you a bit of shelf stability, but also
accessible and easy-to-find. And I would use a light olive oil, because we don’t want the aroma of the olive oil to
overpower the aromatic plants that you’re trying to extract.
But this would be put over a slow heat and we wouldn’t want the temperature to rise above 150 degrees. It’s the
kind of thing that you would have to babysit a bit, so you would be mixing the plants and just watching for when
the plants start to become a bit wilted. If we’re working with precious flowers, things like rose petals, once they
start to become translucent, you would strain that plant material out and then you would recharge that by adding
in fresh plant material. So, this could take several hours or even several days, but it would produce a nice base
oil.
So, if we look at the ancient perfumes, going back to the times of the Sumerian people and the Egyptian people,
oils were the very, very first menstruum that was used for perfuming. Sometimes this was solid and sometimes it
was more liquid.
Interesting, a lot of them would create these cones of fragrant oil that would be placed upon the head and then
as they were moving about in the warm sun, the oil would melt and it would anoint the hair and anoint the skin,
which would make a lot of sense, given the fact that they were in areas of the world that had extreme heat and
so not only was it a way to create aroma and smell beautiful, but it was also practical in terms of protecting the
skin from sun damage.
So, maceration would be one way. And then I could take that base oil from that maceration and depending on,
you know, the level of aroma, if I needed to enhance it in some capacity, then I could then add essential oils on
top of that or absolutes or resins on top of that. But again, it would diminish the amount of product that would
have to be utilized in order to achieve whatever it is you’re desiring to achieve.
The second methodology would be tincture. Most herbalists are familiar with tincture in terms of pulling medicine
out of plants that we could then ingest. But perfumers oftentimes are working with high grain alcohol, very
similar to what we would be using in herbal medicine. Some states, it’s difficult to get this, but typically, most
resins are going to break down in an alcohol that’s at least 70% alcohol, so I’m pretty sure in most states, you
can get 75.5 Everclear versus the 90%, that is more difficult to get without a license.
So, if that’s all you had available, that would potentially work. And by creating tincture, same thing, I’m able to
pull the aromatic molecules out of the plants or out of the resin and use that as now a base alcohol if I wanted to
make a perfume that would be diffused through a sprayer or even through dabbing it on the body.
One of the things I really like about working with alcohol is you can oftentimes tincture things that are
nontraditional aromatic elements. So, for example, if I wanted to create something to kind of think about the
harvest season or autumn in general, I can take things like leaves, different types of autumn leaves, and some
acorns, and maybe bruise those acorns a bit so we get more surface area.
And if I wanted to get that feeling of dried autumn leaves, like walking through the woods with dried autumn
leaves, I could tincture these leaves and I can tincture those acorns together and that would prove a very unique
kind of base note. It’s not something that we would think about, but what’s fun is that you can’t get essential oil
of acorns and leaves, so it allows you a lot of creativity in terms of what you would like to represent in your
perfume story.
Other things that you could tincture would be things like—well, I’ve tinctured old book pages in order to create
the dusty book element. I’ve tinctured seaweed and seashells. I’ve tinctured propolis, so I’m also a sacred
beekeeper, so my bees always seem to end up in there in some way. And so, you can get a lot of really
interesting results from working with nontraditional types of ingredients just by understanding how to work with
alcohol in terms of tincturing.
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So, one of the other things you can do with your tinctured alcohol base, if you wanted to, if I wanted to create a
more concentrated or viscous solution from that, if I leave that alcohol out in an open dish and allow it to
evaporate over time, what it does is, it becomes much more reduced and much more concentrated. What you’re
left with is a much thicker, more viscous concentrated version of your original product.
The only thing I will caution with this is that remember that as we’re evaporating alcohol, like we’re releasing
alcohol vapors into the air. You want to do this in an open, ventilated area where you don’t have any heat
sources around because that can be quite dangerous, right? And we don’t want to be doing this in our kitchen
by our gas stoves or around your sacred altar where you’re lighting incense with a lighter or anything like that.
So, you want to make sure it’s in a dry, covered area. If you have like a shed or a gazebo or some place where
the air can circulate freely but you’re away from any kind of fire element. So, that is sort of a layman’s way of
getting an absolute without having really fancy equipment, different types of equipment, distillation equipment.
One of the last things I want to talk about though is using smoke. As herbalists, we know that smoke has been
used internally in terms of breathing it in for healing in short amounts of time. But we’ve also used smoke to kind
of clear spaces in terms of burning it, to take down pathogens that might be in the air, in the hospitals of long
ago, they would burn things like pine in order to reduce bacteria in the air.
So, we can use smoke—and this is like a whole separate thing—but kind of looking at incense, which is actually
one of the first perfumes, and actually the word perfume, parfum, right? fum means fire or to burn, so it’s one of
the very, very first ones that was ever used. So, you could simply burn aromatic plants and use that smoke to
cover the hair or to perfume your clothing.
A lot of women in the Middle East still use this type of technique to perfume their body and their hair and it adds
a little bit of that smoky note, which can be really exciting.
Another thing you can do is to use a very old Egyptian technique of trapping smoke into fat. So, the way this
would work is you would take a bowl and you would cover the bottom of the bowl with fat and then you would
decide which plants you wanted to burn. So, if you were burning some type of incense that you really loved—so,
I actually got some incense from the Middle East that somebody brought back for me and I wanted to prolong it,
so one of the ways to do that was this technique.
So, you would coat the bottom of your glass bowl with fat, some type of semi-solid fat, and then you would light
your incense and then you would invert the bowl over the top and it trap the smoke into the fat.
You could do this over campfire smoke, right? So, the same thing, you would hold it over the campfire smoke
until it traps that fat. It traps the smoke into the fat and then you would have to then transfer that somehow into
alcohol and then that smoke would be captured in your alcohol and that becomes the base for your creation, for
your perfume.
So, smoke is just another way that we can capture scent and I can use a very small amount. So, if I’m looking at
frankincense resin, you know, I can take a pound of this frankincense resin and put it in this still and get a very
small amount of essential oil, that I could then use that oil in my perfume composition.
Or, I could pull off a very small amount of this and burn it and capture it in the fat and create a much larger
volume of perfumed alcohol, which I think is a more ethically usage of this resin.
ANCESTRY AND FRAGRANCE
So, studies are starting to point to evidence that memories, or scent memories, can actually be passed down
genetically. Recent studies involving mice have indicated that mice who were subjected to certain types of
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smells and then had an adverse reaction, that genetic was passed down to not just their children, but their
grandchildren. So, that anytime mice would have that smell, they would be nervous, or they would become
agitated.
So, if we think about certain smells that not just animals, but people also are wary of, we can think of things like
smoke. So, the second we smell smoke, we know to kind of look and find the source of that smoke. So, what’s
really interesting about the concept that not just our biological DNA can be passed down, but then also this idea
of scent can be passed down, is that people who are trying to understand their ancestral lineage, there might be
certain smells or certain plants that you’re really drawn to and you’re not quite sure why you’re so drawn to
them. Maybe you didn’t grow up around them, but yet they feel oddly familiar. So, there’s indication that this is
stuff that’s buried deep, deep in the recesses of our memory and it’s just part of our history or part of our
lineage.
THE PSYCHOLOGY OF SCENT
Aroma definitely impacts the psyche. So, the olfactory bulb stimulates the limbic system, which is the oldest,
most primal part of the brain, and it’s directly tied into our memory center. So, this is why we can smell
something like, you know, cooking, like baked pie or something and it makes us think of a particular person or a
particular moment in time, and it can be really, really comforting.
People who are triggered by scent—so, I work as a psychotherapist and there are situations where people are
adversely triggered by scent. So, we can even use scent as a healing tool in these capacities to help that person
identify a scent that feels deeply grounding and safe for them and then give them that option in terms of
portability by creating some type of scented locket that they could keep on their person at all times so that if
they were to be in a situation where they might be triggered by scent, all they would have to do is simply use
their safety scent to kind of help them feel safe and grounded in a situation.
So, understanding the psychology of how our bodies respond and how our psyches respond to scent can be,
you know, a really important advantage in terms of working with aromatic plants in more of a healing or
therapeutic capacity.
GETTING STARTED
Usually when I’m teaching beginning perfuming, I recommend that people start with oil-based perfumes and
there’s two reasons for that. One, it is the most ancient form of perfuming and I think it’s always good to start at
the beginning and work our way forward.
It also is typically more accessible to people. Most people have either fractionated coconut oil or jojoba oil or
light olive oil that they can utilize for those purposes.
Typically, we’re working with in the beginning, you want to start with small quantities, so maybe 5 ml of an oil
and then you’re adding about 25—if I’m working with essential oils—I’m adding about 25 drops of essence to
that 5 mls of oil.
It’s better to work with smaller quantities because of the fact that we don’t want to create any unnecessary
waste.
The other thing to think about is, out of those 25 drops, you can arrange those in a way that feels comfortable for
you. Some of this is going to take some trial and error. So, it’s kind of thinking of the simple approach of like
keeping things very simple. So, when you’re first starting, instead of getting very complicated and doing lots of
top notes and lots of heart notes and lots of base notes, just pick one of each. Pick one of each and see how
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those three interplay. It’s kind of like when we’re learning to formulate herbal medicine, right? We start just by
getting to know one plant really, really well and working with that plant for an extended period of time.
Another way to do it, if you’re okay with creating a perfume that doesn’t have lots of longevity, but you’re just
trying to start off, the top notes tend to be less expensive. They’re a little bit more accessible. You can get them
in a lot of health food stores and things like that. Even some supermarkets these days are carrying oils.
So, you can just create what we would call a top note accord. So, that would be instead of having a top note, a
heart note and a base note, I’m going to pick three top notes, right? So, maybe I would pick like a lemon and
some type of grapefruit and then maybe some type of spice, right? And I would create things that would kind of
interplay in a nice way together.
What will happen in the beginning is you’ll create things sometimes and it will look beautiful on paper, or maybe
you’ll pick three things that you love a lot. You’ll say, “Oh, I love these three things. I’m going to put them
together.” Well, it doesn’t necessarily mean that they’re going to play nicely together. It’s kind of like people. So,
you have like three friends that you really, really like a lot and then you get those three friends together and
maybe it doesn’t go so well. So, plants are like people, right?
So, you might do that and say, “Oh, this didn’t really work out,” which is why working with smaller amounts of oil
is better. That way we’re not wasting.
Having said that, sometimes you’re going to create something and when you initially work with it, you’re not
going to like it. You’re going to say, “Yeah, this isn’t really what I thought it was going to be.” My suggestion is
always to cap that and put it away in a dark, cool place and let it sit for a while because a lot of times as some
scents start to stew together and macerate together, it ends up aging into something that’s really, really
beautiful. You’ll open it 6 months later and you’ll be really pleased with the results of that.
So, this is very much a patient art. Just like pretty much anything else in herbal medicine, you need to have
patience, you need to be okay making mistakes because you’re going to make mistakes. That’s one of the only
ways you learn.
But it’s also about this level of mindfulness because you’re teaching an organ that is often underlooked or
overlooked in our culture to be more sensitive. So, it’s going to take time for you to be able to tell the difference
between sweet orange, bitter orange, and blood orange, just by scent alone, without looking at bottles.
So, it’s just like anything else, the more you do it, the more comfortable it will get, and that’s probably the best
way to start.
CUSTOM FORMULAS
You have to think of the different layers of the human being, right? So, if I look at this from a base note
perspective, if I start from the ground and work up, so, if I’m looking at a person in front of me and I’m trying to
understand their base, right? So, their base would be where do they come from? What’s their culture? What are
their family of origin traditions? And so, like what scents would represent that aspect of who they are as a
person.
The heart notes, I always kind of think of heart notes in terms of the present. How are you manifesting in this
material realm now? What are the things that you love in this world? What are the things you’re passionate
about? What are the places you’re passionate about and how do I represent that in terms of an olfactory palate,
right?
So, if the person loves the ocean, what types of plant elements could I bring in that would represent the ocean?
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Top notes I think of more in the spiritual realms. So, you know, what is their astrological sign? Can I think of
different oils that might represent the different aspects of that astrological sign? What’s their spiritual traditions?
You know, maybe there’s some type of aroma that they associate with their spiritual traditions.
It’s more of a mythological way of working with people and that’s kind of my thing. I guess that’s one of my
signatures is that, you know, I’m more interested in telling a story through scent. So, pretty much all of the
perfumes that I craft are either about people in my life or inspired by people in my life or inspired by situations or
places that I’ve had in my lifetime.
And so, when you’re working with someone in more of a custom way, it’s about really getting to know, you
know, the essence of that person and then try to creatively correspond that through aromatics.
The hard part with it, is I think it’s so subjective, do you know what I mean? And like I feel like as a culture, we do
this thing where it’s like, “Well, lavender is relaxing,” you know? And like I know people that are really turned off
by lavender. Like they’re just like, ew.
I have like a client, she’s coming to mind in particular, she just has this very strong reaction to it, you know? And
part of that is traumatic, as something she went through as a child, you know? So, like if I made that
assumption, right, that lavender was relaxing, and I diffuse this in my office and this client walked in, like I could
potentially hurt her.
So, like as a therapist, I don’t typically diffuse scent in my room. If we’re talking and the client tells me that
they’re interested in scent, then we talk about what works for them. And if I have that in my organ there, then I’ll
pull it out and then we’ll put it on.
In psychotherapy, we have a term called person-centered. So, coming from a person-centered approach, right?
So, it’s not me necessarily making an assumption of what would be best for them but letting them cocreate.
Even if I’m doing a treatment plan and therapy, like it’s not me telling the client, “This is what is going to work,
this is what you should do,” it’s more like, “These are some ideas I have, do you think this would work?” You
know?
And I think because scent is so subjective on some level, that person needs to be part of the process. So,
typically if I’m doing custom work, you know, it’s easier for them to just come to the home studio where I have a
wide variety of things. The perfume organ is what it’s called, and it’s set up very much like a musical organ.
And so, all of the, you know, top notes, heart notes, and base notes are organized by that method and so then
it’s just better for people. They can kind of like select things that they think they might be interested in or there
are certain things that they know right away that are not comfortable for them, then we don’t even need to open
that bottle.
But then we have like more—they’re able to select an array of things and then we kind of narrow it down from
there in terms of what’s going to work best, and then that’s where the skull piece comes in. It’s more my job to
say, “I think this would complement this or this might overpower this. Could we maybe try this instead,” you
know?
So, again, like the whole process is really collaborative, which I like because, you know, you learn a lot about
people that way when you kind of bring them into the process with you. And that’s kind of the best part, because
a lot of times the person might be curious about something and then they realize like it’s something that really
resounds for them, you know? And so, that’s kind of nice, too, when they have like this exciting a-ha moment of
like, wow, this makes me feel like really solid in my gut. I just feel really, really good when I smell this, and I never
would’ve ever imagined that this would be producing that kind of feeling in my body.
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I will say the hardest part for me in perfuming, personally, is I do things in a very intuitive way. I don’t like
measuring things. I’m not very mathematical or scientific, but perfuming, in order to duplicate something, I have
to do that. So, for me, that’s my biggest challenge, is being precise so that I can duplicate something again.
One of the things I’m starting to get away from, though, is that I feel that that limits me as an artist on some level.
So, I’m much more interested these days in co-distillation, which would be essentially taking wildcrafted plants
from my yard, just kind of collecting in no sort of—not weighing everything, you know? Just throw it into the still
and then get this very unique profile that comes out. And it’s like a once-in-a-lifetime thing. I’m never going to
duplicate that. And there’s something really magical about that for me.
I’ve also become really interested, these days, in working with plants that people considered to be invasives, so I
watch the honeybees a lot to see what they’re pulling from, you know? And so, like if I’m working with goldenrod
or Japanese knotweed or something like that, it may not have like this really complex aromatic profile that, you
know, roses would, or something, but that’s where I live. Like that’s the profile of where I’m at.
So, it’s that. It’s like just being willing to just do what feels right as opposed to—you know. So, getting out of this
cognitive thing, like our culture seems to really praise like the mind. And I think we’ve gotten away from the
intuitive work. I think plants have this really magical way of bringing us back to that place.
So, for me, this work is super grounding. You know, it gets me out of my head, actually, and much more into the
scents or sensual experience of being a human being. And I think that that is solely lacking in the culture.
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