From the mid-1930s, Hermès employed Swiss watchmaker Universal Genève as the brand's first

and exclusive designer of timepieces, producing a line of men's wrist chronographs[10] (manufactured

in 18K gold or stainless steel) and women's Art Déco cuff watches in 18K gold, steel, or platinum.
Both models contained dials signed either "Hermès" or "Hermès Universal Genève", while the watch
movements were signed "Universal Genève S.A.". The Hermès/Universal partnership lasted until the
1950s.[11]
Émile-Maurice summarized the Hermès philosophy during his leadership as "leather, sport, and a
tradition of refined elegance."[7]