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After Charles-Émile Hermès's retirement, sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice took leadership and

renamed the company Hermès Frères. Shortly after, Émile-Maurice began furnishing the czar of
Russia with saddles.[4] By 1914, up to 80 saddle craftsmen were employed. Subsequently, Émile-
Maurice was granted the exclusive rights to use the zipper for leather goods and clothing, becoming
the first to introduce the device in France.[5] In 1918, Hermès introduced the first leather golf jacket
with a zipper, made for Edward, Prince of Wales.[8] Because of its exclusive rights arrangement the
zipper became known in France as the fermeture Hermès (Hermès fastener).[7]
Throughout the 1920s when he was the sole head of the firm, Émile-Maurice added accessories and
clothing collections.[5][6][9] He also groomed his three sons-in-law (Robert Dumas, Jean-René
Guerrand, and Francis Puech) as business partners. In 1922, the first leather handbags were
introduced after Émile-Maurice's wife complained of not being able to find one to her liking. Émile-
Maurice created the handbag collection himself. [4]

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