Esquire The Big Black Book Fall 2015 Usa PDF

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SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
COLLECTION
THE
The Portfolios
THREE APPROACHES TO NOT SIMPLY SURVIVING BUT THRIVING IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS
P O RT FOLIO 1 PORTFOL IO 2 PORTFO LI O 3
How to How to How to

Layer Dress Up Rough It
The pairing and wearing of multiple Streamlined, simple, surprisingly warm: a Tent? Check. Flashlight? Double check.
garments at one time requires both wintry mix of seasonally appropriate suits For everything else a man might
art and science, and a great many of us and coats. need for a rugged, refined weekend in the
are possibly doing it wrong. 133 woods, look no further.
115 153
The Information
A CONCISE HOW-TO GUIDE FOR LIFE, IN THREE SECTIONS
Maintenance Performance Warmth

Expert advice on enhancing The whys and hows of the Ideas and inspirations for
and protecting the best of things that work to keep us enjoying the comforts of
one’s possessions and person, warm, from wind resistance, the great indoors, including
featuring sweater care, waterproofing, and moisture a winter-friendly bed, the
down-jacket repair, turtleneck wicking to the many ways world’s best blankets, a top-
rehab, windburn prevention, that coats, boots, gloves, notch fire (and what to drink
and what to make of the umbrellas, and athletic in front of it), a few words on
occasional Yeti footprint. supporters help a fella out. saunas, and suggested
warm-weather getaways.
129 145
169
Fa l l E s q uire’s Pa ge
2015 Big Black B o ok 25
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The Big Black Book
Letter from The BBB Guide to The Road Warriors
the Editor Outdoor Gear What to drive when the weatherman says
you probably shouldn’t be driving.
For skiing, snowboarding, ice fishing, skating,
32
sledding, and numerous other ways
to raise a little hell.
64
The Smartest
Watches in the World
Twenty mechanical watches that do a whole
lot more than tell the time.
The Essentials
Where tradition meets technology and Four men’s-wear mavericks from the world’s
luxury meets performance, you’ll find these top department stores share their expertise
six key investments for fall and winter. on dressing well in the worst weather.
36
100
Top of the World The New Fundamentals:

One man’s intrepid, well-dressed journey
to the North Pole and back.
Accessories
Gloves, scarves, socks, and more: how to
50 What three brands with 427 years make ’em count.
of history between them know about keeping
people warm. 108
82
WHAT I’VE LEARNED:

Apa Sherpa
Wisdom, advice, and a little perspective from
the man who’s seen the view from
Mount Everest more than anyone else alive.
86
The Secret Lives of

The New Fundamentals:
Winter Boots
From a big-budget movie director to a Overcoats The Resources
mushroom-foraging master chef, what four From color and cut to the presence (or ab- The whole wide world of
men of style wear on their feet when they sence) of that one killer detail, a few things to extraordinary outdoor experiences.
take on winter. consider before buying a new one. Featuring waffles.
56 88 174
On the cover: Photograph by Phil Poynter
Page E s q uire’s Fa ll
Letter from the Editor
T his edition of the Big Black Book is an amazing resource.

I just flipped through the pages again, and the sheer
accumulation of information, history, experience, and
advice is impressive. This owes primarily to Esquire
senior editor Rich Dorment, who oversaw every page of the issue, and
to fashion director Nick Sullivan and senior fashion editor Wendell
Brown, who both possess encyclopedic knowledge of the history
of style and are on the front lines of fashion daily. The Information
boots. They’re above the ankle and feature a pebbled finish and a
rounded toe (actually, there they are, on page 112); they are both
beautiful and rugged enough to wear with anything and on any
occasion, and are absolutely unstoppable, with their lug soles, in
snow, through slush, and across most patches of ice. They combine
the practicality of a great pair of hiking boots with the confident style
of dress shoes. I had one issue with them, which was that I wore them
so often the laces frayed. (And there is really no convenient way to
sections alone offer a college-level course in navigating the unique replace the laces that come with nice footwear, short of settling for
challenges of winter. But in virtually every description of an item whatever the local shoe-repair shop has on hand.) But these boots
of clothing or a useful accessory, there is an awareness of the long demonstrated that there is, as my father used to tell me, the right
history of technological advances that led to its creation. tool for every job.
I’ve never mastered most of the techniques that would make This edition of the Big Black Book is that indicator writ large. The
my passage through the colder months here in the East more entire issue was built to suggest better ways of enduring the extreme
comfortable. I’ve never mastered layering, though I am pretty much weather that is more and more common here in the second era of
in awe of the men (generally European and Japanese) who pull it our awareness of the effects of climate change. But it’s also about the
off with aplomb. I don’t know all the ways to knot a scarf so that it stories behind the best and most effective products. There’s always a
serves as an effective wind blocker. I’m not sure, in fact, that my lot made in advertising of the “technical” nature of winter clothing,
scarves are even the proper length and width—though the fabrics but when you see what is behind the incredible innovations—from
are nice. Last year, I had to seek Nick’s counsel for suggestions on the cotton fabrication that renders Timothy Everest’s parka (page
a more practical approach to headgear and how to sport it without 44) entirely waterproof, to the design and manufacturing strategies
looking like a four-year-old. Basically, I have a couple coats I like, of Canada Goose that enabled Wendell to travel to the North Pole
throw them over whatever I’m wearing, insert a pair of gloves into without ever being cold, and on to the standard-bearers of winter
one of the pockets, and hope for the best. wear (like Moncler, Bally, and Pringle of Scotland, which have been
Last winter, though, I did experience an indicator of how working to keep people warm for generations)—you can’t help but
preparation could improve my life: I acquired a pair of Grenson come away with a vivid understanding of the marvels they represent.
Editor in Chief
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The Big Black Book
EDITOR IN CHIEF David Granger LE
Nick Sullivan • D E P U T Y E D I T O R Richard Dorment CYC THIS
EDITOR RE M
E
E D I T O R I A L D I R E C T O R Helene F. Rubinstein • D E S I G N D I R E C T O R David Curcurito
AG
AS
A ZI
M A N A G I N G E D I T O R John Kenney • D I R E C T O R O F P H O T O G R A P H Y Michael Norseng
PL E
NE
REMOV
ART
NG
ART DIRECTOR Jessica Musumeci • A S S O C I AT E A R T D I R E C TO R Tito Jones
CLI
E IN
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CY
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SE
RT
PHOTOGRAPHY SO RE
RS FO
A M P L E S BE
PHOTO EDITOR Stacey Pittman • P H OTO C O O R D I N ATO R Amy Wong • PHOTO RESEARCHER Myles Ashby
FAS H I O N
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5 7 G R E E N E S T, N E W Y O R K JEFFREYRUDES.COM
B
B B
2015
The
Essentials
The solution to brutal winter weather isn’t to bow
to the elements, retreat indoors, and wait
until spring finally ( finally) arrives. The solution lies in wearing
clothes and accessories that epitomize luxury
and performance, traditional craftsmanship and technical
ingenuity. For comfort and warmth, start with the six
featured here.
The Louis Vuitton Hiking Boot

OR, THE PARADOX OF LUXURY PERFORMANCE GOODS >
And now let us consider the paradox of luxury performance goods, stands for—high-caliber craftsmanship, high-quality materials—
in which we pay a good sum of money for something that promises that we need not try it out for ourselves. And so we come to these
maximal durability and utility, yet because of said good sum, we Louis Vuitton hiking boots, with their high-grade, water-resistant
balk at meaningfully testing said durability and utility. (Just think leather uppers complemented by rubber side panels and their soles
of all those shiny Range Rovers parked in suburban driveways. Who shaped by the wizened hands of Vuitton’s celebrated shoemakers.
wants to dent and scratch such beautiful beasts by wheeling through The boots’ structural integrity and physical support are unquestion-
rocky muck?) Instead of proof, we proceed with faith, choosing to able, yet do we need to climb a mountain in them to know they’re
believe that it is precisely because of that high price tag and all it worth the price? Hardly.
P h o t o g r a p h s b y T O BY M C FA R L A N P O N D
C alfskin boots ($1,195) by Louis Vuitton; louisvuitton.com.
The Essentials
The
Hermès
Overcoat
CASHMERE IS
STILL KING >
It is hard to remember a
time when cashmere, like
other once-exotic com-
modities, such as avoca-
dos and Maseratis, wasn’t
absolutely everywhere.
When it wasn’t being sold
at two-for-one prices at
fast-fashion chains. When
we weren’t taking it for
granted and recognizing
good cashmere for the
wonder of warmth that
it truly is. This unlined,
double-faced cashmere
overcoat from Hermès is a
welcome reminder of just
how good cashmere gets.
Primary reason being:
Most cashmere weaves
are single-faced—one
side of the cloth is refined
and smooth, the other
side messy—and a crafts-
man making a coat with
such a weave will line the
interior so nobody has to
see the messy side. A coat
made from double-faced
cloth, though, has no
need for a lining, because
both sides are finished
with great care (and at
great expense). Without
a lining to impose any
structure, a double-faced
overcoat molds to the
contours of the wearer’s
body and offers comfort
and warmth nonpareil.
For all the innovations to
come out of laboratories,
good cashmere still fits,
feels, and performs like
nothing else.
Do u ble-fa ced ca s h m ere
c o a t ( $ 8,60 0 ) by H e r m è s ;
h e r m e s .c o m .
MONACO CALIBRE 12
Steve McQueen’s legacy is timeless. More than an actor, more than a pilot, he became a legend.
Like TAG Heuer, he defined himself beyond standards and never cracked under pressure.
TAGHeuer.com
The Essentials
The Pal Zileri Bag

>
LUXURY INSIDE AND OUT

For the better part of the 19th and early 20th centuries, we would set have a great many more options in the luggage department—less
forth for parts unknown with trunks of various shapes and sizes— pine, more ballistic nylon—but the necessity for in-transit organi-
rectangular boxes, mostly, made from the sturdiest pine, covered in zation remains indisputable. This mashable, squashable, pebbled-
the hardiest leather, and finished off with flat tops that allowed them leather weekend bag from Pal Zileri has multiple pockets both in-
to be stacked atop one another in the bowels of the age’s mighti- side and out for documents, gadgets, and clothes. And although its
est steamers and locomotives. Most offered trays and compartments exterior is all supple calfskin luxury, its interior is lined with velvety,
to organize all of one’s earthly possessions (shirts, hats, opera stain-resistant microfiber that can withstand moisture and survive
pumps—the necessities, really) while on the go. Today’s travelers all manner of travel abuse.
C alfskin bag ($2,1 50) by Pal Zileri; palzileri.com.
M A D I S O N AV E N U E , N E W Y O R K - M I A M I D E S I G N D I S T R I C T, M I A M I - S O U T H C OA S T P L A Z A , C O S TA M E S A
The Essentials
The
Berluti
Blazer
WHERE
SOFTNESS
MEETS
STRENGTH >
Over the past four years,
Berluti has evolved under
artistic director Ales-
sandro Sartori to become
a purveyor of modern-
minded über-luxury
clothing, repurposing age-
old crafts and practices
while still making clothes
that have a distinctly
21st-century sensibility. It
was only a matter of time
before Sartori would turn
his attention to the cardi-
gan jacket, a garment that
for decades now has been
something of a holy grail
for men’s-wear designers
seeking a comfortable
yet dressy staple for their
customers. Working with
legendary cashmere
specialist Loro Piana,
Sartori created this
double-breasted cardigan
jacket in what he calls a
“techno-Donegal,” weav-
ing together spaghetti-
like strips of baby-calf
suede with cashmere.
The cloth is loomed by
hand rather than on
machines because the
craftsmen have to work
very slowly to ensure
the suede-and-cashmere
weave is both tight and
supple, tough and soft.
D o u b l e - b re a s t e d c a s h m e re -
a n d - su ede ja cket (price
u p o n re q u e s t ) by B e r l u t i ;
b e r l u t i.co m .
The Essentials
The Timothy Everest Parka

>
A FINE SARTORIAL PERFORMANCE

Timothy Everest is a London tailor of impeccable pedigree. Having the British military during World War II in order to keep its soldiers dry.
trained under legendary Savile Row innovator (and iconoclast) Tommy (When wet, the fibers swell and effectively block out moisture.) How-
Nutter, Everest set up shop in 1990 and became his own man—and the ever, it’s not the performance of Everest’s parka that is most notable: It’s
man, frankly—by catering to Cool Britannia Londoners in search of a the Savile Row touches on the inside, with scalloped facings, corduroy-
thoroughly modern bespoke suit. This fall, in a bold move that would lined pockets, a high-cut armscye (or armhole), a two-part articulated
have made Nutter proud, Everest is branching out and applying his eye sleeve (an old tailoring trick), and a slim tailored fit. A supremely el-
and irreverent touch to down jackets and parkas. The above example egant bit of performance kit, this is, and a solution for any man who
is made of L24 Ventile, a densely woven Egyptian cotton developed for wishes his tailored overcoat were sportier and his parka suitier.
Ventile parka ($1,495) by Timothy Eve re st; jcrew.com.

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The Essentials
The
Tudor
Pelagos
THE
POWER OF
TITANIUM >
People who talk about
watch movements might
tell you this is among the
first Tudors to feature
its own house-made
movement. People who
talk about style might
admire the rich shade
of blue on the dial and
bezel. But people who
talk about performance
might notice from the
case’s matte finish that
S E T D E S I G N B Y N O E M I B O N A Z Z I F O R B R Y D G E S M A C K I N N E Y.
it’s made principally from
titanium. Unlike stainless
steel, which is prone to
rust and corrosion over
time, titanium resists such
degradation, all while
being just as strong and
around 50 percent lighter.
It’s the kind of watch that
can, in fact, take a licking
and keep on ticking, and
when you’re looking for
a watch for come what
may, it’s hard to do better
than this.
Ti t a n i u m - a n d - s t e e l Pe l a g o s
watch ($4,400) by Tudor;
t u d o r wa t c h .c o m .
Find out more about this story on cesareattolini.com 798 Madison Avenue New York
A DV E N T U R E
Top OF
THE World
One man’s journey to the North Pole and back
B y W E N D E L L B R OW N
T he writer, left, kitted out in full- body snowsuit and the big
gun of winter parkas, the S now Mantra. Below,
the coast near S valbard, Norway, last stop before the Pole.
W
hat exactly does one pack
when visiting the North
Pole? I wasn’t worried about
the cold. I grew up in Chica-
go. I know cold, and I know
that with enough layers and
the right kind of gear, there’s no kind of cold I can’t
handle. I was more nervous about traveling to a re-
mote Russian scientific outpost in the Arctic Circle
about which I knew next to nothing. I was nervous
about flying there on an old Russian cargo plane and
landing on six-foot-thick ice. I was nervous that once
I got there I’d be sleeping in a tent on an ice floe in the
Arctic Ocean. This was the end of the earth, truly,
and while I wasn’t nervous about the people I’d meet
there, I was certainly curious: Who in their right
mind wants to go to the North Pole, anyway?
Other than me, of course. Ever since I was a kid,
learning about the first African-American Arctic
explorer, Matthew Henson, going north (all the way
north) was always on my bucket list. And there it
stayed for a few decades until the good people of
Canada Goose, an outerwear brand that over the
past few years has come to dominate the intersec-
tion of performance and luxury, gave me the chance
Page E s q uire’s
50 Big Black B o ok
FROM BOTTOM RIGHT: T he blue tents of B arneo Ice Camp;
getting gloves and hat, Canada G oose HQ; coyote-fur
pelts for the trim on parkas; trying on full- body snowsuit,
boots; en route to the top of the world; fur trim being
attached to f inished parkas; the chopper that will take the
expedition the f inal leg.
to test out their wares in extremis. The company’s

CEO, Dani Reiss, once described the 58-year-old
outfitter as “the Land Rover of clothing. Most peo-
ple driving a Land Rover are never going to take
it off-road, but they’re really happy to know they
can.” My challenge was to take Canada Goose off-
road and put its performance wear to the test in the
most unforgiving of environments.
I first met with Spencer Orr, the vice-president
of design and merchandising, at the company’s To-
ronto headquarters, and he brought me to a table
stocked with all the gear I would need for a few days
at the Pole—a sprawling assortment ranging from
base layers and a full-body snowsuit to a lighter-
weight jacket, hat, and gloves, all the way up to the
big gun: the Snow Mantra, or what Canada Goose
has called “the warmest jacket on earth.” Orr ex-
plained some of what makes the Snow Mantra so
special: Down-filled and with a fleece-lined chin
area and approximately a million pockets, it’s been
field-tested in temperatures as low as minus-94
degrees and used by the Arctic-based Canadian
Rangers and airline ground crews. It also offers
potentially lifesaving features, such as kidney-level
mesh pouches with air-activated warmers to pro-
Fa ll
2015
Top of the World
SCENES FROM SVALBARD, CLOCKWISE

FROM ABOVE: Arctic coast; the author
exploring an ice cave; the plane that takes
the expedition to B arneo Ice Camp; a row
of colorful S valbard homes; encounter
with a member of a dogsled team.
tect vital organs from the cold, as well as “grab straps,” which would the Arctic Ocean. To get there, it’s a two-and-a-half-hour flight from
enable rescuers to pull you out of the water if you happen to fall in. Longyearbyen on an old Russian cargo plane with few windows and
The hood is bolstered with interior wire (to maintain its shape under an out-of-order bathroom. Loud and bumpy, the flight was filled with
duress) and finished with coyote-fur trim, which is ideal for protect- Russian scientists, European students, and a few American tourists,
ing skin from winds and frostbite. (Canada Goose doesn’t use syn- and as we made our descent, I caught my first glimpse of the bright-
thetic fur because, performance- and warmth-wise, they say it’s no blue tents that make up Barneo. We disembarked and proceeded to
substitute for the real thing.) the tents, which are heated and laid out barracks-style, with two rows
With my bag packed, I flew from Toronto to Svalbard, a Norwegian of six cots, each with a sleeping bag on top. There was also a main
archipelago deep inside the Arctic Circle that’s surrounded by snow- tent where everyone on the base could congregate, where meals are
covered mountains and glaciers. The town of Longyearbyen looks served by a stoic young Russian and a little “gift shop” table sells T-
like so many charming Scandinavian ski villages—a playground for shirts, ball caps, and vodka for sky-high prices.
winter sports where well-heeled Europeans come for snowmobiling After a quick lunch of a mysterious but not-bad-tasting soup and
and cross-country skiing. For most of the people I encountered there, a slice of white bread, it was time to head to the North Pole. Al-
the girls with their crystal-clear skin and the handsome bearded though it’s possible to ski or take a dogsled to get there, we opted
guys in Nudie Jeans, Longyearbyen was their final destination. For for a chopper, and as our bright-orange-and-blue transport heli-
me, it was a layover to Barneo Ice Camp, a private base around 60 copter lifted off, the windows immediately froze over. I noticed one
miles south of the North Pole. First built in 2001 by the Russian Geo- of the passengers, a Russian man from the military, was wearing a
graphic Society, it has the dubious distinction of having to be rebuilt wet suit and planned to go scuba diving. During the 30-minute ride,
anew each year for reasons owing to that fact that it’s on an ice floe in there really wasn’t much to look at—no polar bears or wolves, none
Page E s q uire’s
52 Big Black B o ok
So what does one do
on the North Pole? I
noticed one of the
passengers, a Russian
from the military,
was wearing a wet
suit and planned to
go scuba diving.
of the disintegrating glaciers or top-secret mili- sun also sat much lower in the sky, almost below
tary bases I had imagined from years of watch- AT THE NORTH POLE, my shoulder, and the light was powerful. Walking
ing too many movies. It was just blinding white— CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: around with all my gear on, I felt as warm and com-
every which way. T he sun never quite rises in the fortable as if I were in my own hotel room.
sky but rather hovers low around
We finally touched down on the North Pole, and So what does one do on the North Pole? We took
the horizon; a couple renews
the first thing I noticed was the cold: It’s minus-30 their wedding vows; an pictures. We looked around. An older couple renewed
degrees, and for the first time in my life I understood impromptu cocktail party. their marriage vows. Some guy skydived in. And the
the phrase bitter cold. I could practically feel all my guides unpacked a picnic basket, like a cooler, with
gear start working: my woolen long underwear and vodka, champagne, and Baileys. We had ourselves
down ski pants protecting my legs; my woolen long-sleeved T-shirt a little cocktail party on the North Pole, and after three hours we
and lightweight down jacket trapping my body heat; my Snow Man- boarded the helicopter to return to Barneo Ice Camp and then Sval-
tra parka protecting my torso and arms; a neoprene shield covering bard for a day of snowmobiling and ice-cave exploring. Even with the
my whole face, save the upper reaches of my cheeks and my eyes; wind whipping my face and the temperature lower than I thought it
and two sets of gloves (one thin and nylon, the other thick and insu- could possibly go, things never got all that uncomfortable. For that, I
lated) covering my hands and wrists. Our guides encouraged us to suppose, I can thank Canada Goose.
walk around what quickly began to feel like another planet. There My Snow Mantra has now settled into its new home in my clos-
was nothing here: no trees and no wildlife, and yet it was incredibly et, and I’m waiting for winter to arrive to put it, and me, to the test.
beautiful in its simplicity, like an endless white carpet that goes to But we’ve already been tested. We’ve survived. And we’re ready for
infinity. (Or like the Hoth scene from The Empire Strikes Back.) The whatever comes next.
Fa ll
2015
M E N O F ST Y L E
T HE SECRET LIV E S OF
W I N T E R B O OTS
Four world travelers share the stories behind their
favorite fall and winter footwear
I n t e r v i e w s b y J U L I A B L AC K
THE OWNER: Baltasar Kormákur, filmmaker

THE MAKER: Liberty Black
I USED TO WEAR a lot of

cowboy boots when I was
younger, so when I saw
these, I was instantly in
love. I liked the leather, the
little bit of a heel, and how
they’re both light and mas-
culine at the same time. I did
have to resole them when I
WHERE
T H E Y’ V E B E E N got back to Iceland, though,
“Around the world three because it’s just too wet
times,” from Iceland and too gravelly here for a
and Nepal to Florida leather sole. They’ve made
and Louisiana. it around the world three
times, and most recently
they went to Nepal, where
I took them up Everest to
shoot Everest. They’re not
so shiny that you can’t take
them out in the wild, but
they’re also not so dirty
that you can’t dress them
up when you need to look
nice. And, of course, they’re
flat on the bottom, so I can
I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY A N J E JAG E R
dance in them.
Baltasar Kormákur is an
Icelandic actor and director.
This fall, he takes on his
first 3-D epic with Everest, a
harrowing account of
the infamously fatal 1996
expeditions.
Fa ll
56 2015
TO BOOT NEW YORK
W I N T E R B O OTS
WHERE
T H E Y’ V E B E E N
Denmark, Norway, Ice-
land, Ireland, England,
Sweden, and all over
New York State.
THE OWNER: Mads Refslund, chef

THE MAKER: Bally
MY GIRLFRIEND BOUGHT THESE for me about three a flask with a little bit of whiskey, and then going hunting
years ago. She knows quality when she sees it—they’ve or foraging. These shoes have always been there for that.
been through a lot, and I like that they’re easy to put on and When they’re shined up with a bit of shoe polish, they’re
not too heavy. They’ve been with me to Iceland, Denmark, actually quite good-looking.
Norway, Ireland, England, Sweden, and all over New York
State. Mostly, I use them in the autumn when I go out to for- Mads Refslund cofounded Noma in Copenhagen—widely
age for ingredients or when I go hunting for pheasants and considered one of the world’s best restaurants—before bring-
rabbits. I love waking up early and getting out to the woods ing his signature New Nordic cuisine to the U. S. at Acme in
around four o’clock and watching the sun come up with New York City.
A CITY WITH A HISTORY
IN STEEL SHOWS ITS FUTURE
MIGHT JUST BE IN LEATHER.
SHINOLA LEATHER, FALL 2015.
DETROIT • NE W YORK • LOS ANGELES • LONDON
SHINOL A .COM
W I N T E R B O OTS
H OW H E
W E A RS T H E M
When the time comes
to make art, Beck will strap THE OWNER: Simon Beck, snow artist
snowshoes onto his boots
THE MAKER: Keen
and begin methodically
stamping out a pattern
in the snow.
WHEN YOU’RE MAKING

a snow drawing, you’re
going to sink into the
snow about eight inches,
so what’s most important
is that your footwear is
warm. Fortunately, these
ones are a lot warmer
than the leather boots I
used to wear, and I think
I’ve worn them for every
snow drawing I’ve made
for the past year or so.
(One memory that stands
out particularly was a big
drawing I did up at Grin-
delwald [Switzerland],
where we were up three
and a half thousand me-
ters on a glacier and had
to be roped up the whole
time.) My gear gets quite
a bashing, just be-
cause of the sheer
amount of time I
use it, but I’ll
hang on to
these boots
until they
fall apart.
Simon Beck is
the world’s most
famous—and
perhaps only—
snow artist. He has created
WHERE hundreds of large-scale
T H E Y’ V E B E E N drawings in snow, and he is
Grindelwald and
Bettmeralp, Switzerland;
scheduled to create his next
St. Gervais Mont-Blanc, works in St. Moritz
France; Alberta, Canada; and Japan.
Utah; Sulden, Italy.
Porsche Design
CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1
DEEP BLUE – polished titanium
chronograph with deep blue dial and
strap. Elegance and sportiness on
the wrist. Swiss Made.
E XPERIENCE THE NEW LUXURY LIFEST YLE
driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and finest functional elegance blend into
a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future.
We are proud to design for the man and woman of tomorrow.
www.porsche-design.com
W I N T E R B O OTS
THE OWNER: Tyson Chandler, baller
THE MAKER: Common Projects
I LIVE ON THE WEST COAST PRIMARILY, so I don’t see throw these on with a cool pair of distressed denim, a cot-
much of fall or winter, except when I’m on the road. And ton tee, and one of my brims. So far the boots haven’t led
I can be very picky about what goes on my feet. (A man’s much of an exciting life, besides my kids stepping all over
shoe says a lot.) Fortunately, I recently got connected with them. Fortunately, a suede boot looks best a bit worn in.
one of the men behind the brand Common Projects, and
since then, I can’t seem to take these Chelseas off my feet. Since 2001 Tyson Chandler has played for six NBA teams, in-
They’re stylish and versatile, but what I appreciate most cluding the 2011 league champion Dallas Mavericks, and this
about these boots is that I can dress them up or wear them season he’ll play center for the Phoenix Suns. He also happens
with more of a grungy, chill look. On any given day, I can to be one of the most stylish men in sports.
WHERE
T H E Y’ V E B E E N
Phoenix, Arizona;
Italy; the South of
France.
S U E D E?
IN WINTER?
YESSIR.
For tips on how to wear
suede all winter long
without worrying about
getting it wet, see page
129.
THE BBB
GUIDE TO
Outdoor S P O RTS
Gear
The winter months are not the time for hibernation.
On the contrary, this is the time to wear outlandish gear
and partake in activities that involve speed, agility,
childlike enthusiasm, and, sometimes, not a little
danger. So cast off your Snuggie, put that whiskey in
a flask, assemble the proper gear, and go outside.
B y J E N N I N G S B R OW N
Photographs by Philip Friedman
2 4
1 The Frabill Straight Line 371

Bro Series 30” Quick Tip
Combo ($90; frabill.com) hails
2 The holes in that ice don’t
just appear, and with the
Ion electric ice auger ($580;
3 Salomon has already
made some of the most
comfortable ski boots on the
4 The Sweet Protection
Grimnir helmet ($450;
sweetprotection.com) is built with
5 Zai makes the Bentley of
skis—literally. This 12-year-old
Swiss company collaborated with
from one of the oldest and most ioniceaugers.com), you can rev market, but now its Quest Access a carbon-fiber-reinforced polymer, the luxury automaker to produce the
revered ice-fishing operations up the compact, cold-weather- Custom Heat boot ($600; a superstrong, light material that’s Bentley-branded ski. All Zai skis are
around, and it was codesigned resistant engine and start drilling salomon.com) lets you control the so expensive to produce that it’s handcrafted in a village in the Alps;
by famous ice fisher Brian “Bro” through nearly four feet of ice to heat of the liner with buttons at mostly used in high-performance the walnut-surfaced Testas (about
Brosdahl. You can swap in other get to the wet stuff. the top of the shaft. Toasty. race cars. It also has a multi- $5,100, including the poles on the
rods from Frabill to adapt to directional-impact-protection next page; zai.ch) are designed for
different fishing styles and to system that rotates slightly upon control and handling, and embedded
target different species. collision to better protect the with steel trim to keep their shape—
ol’ noodle. no matter what abuse they take.
Outdoor Gear
1 Jeremy Jones, a pro

snowboarder and mountain
free rider, started his own
2 Fogging goggles have been
the enemy plaguing skiers
since the dawn of eye protection.
3 Carbon ski poles from Zai,
free of charge with the
purchase of the $5,100 pair of skis
4 When the snow is deep and
fresh, these reengineered
snowshoes from Fimbulvetr
5 And for the dreamer who
can’t get enough speed,
the Polaris 2016 600 Indy SP TD
company six years ago and Many companies have tried to on the previous page. So, yeah: ($300; fimbulvetr.no) are a far cry Series LE (starting at $10,000;
now produces some of the best solve the problem, but none have not exactly free of charge, but from the giant tennis rackets we’ve polaris.com) is the ideal ride for
boards for the backcountry— been as successful as Abominable lightweight, durable, and reliable. been using for centuries—mostly racing with friends, exploring the
like the Hovercraft Split has with its Abom goggles ($250; because of an all-direction hinge trails, or picking up supplies and
($830; jonessnowboards.com). abom.com), which prevent and a curved design that permits firewood.
Split boards are designed for cloudiness with an ultrathin heat- you to walk as if you were wearing
exceptional maneuverability no conductive film that’s built into boots.
matter the terrain, and the Split the lens.
model allows you to snap the
board in two so you can ascend
mountains like a backcountry skier.
Outdoor Gear
P R O P ST Y L I N G A N D S E T D E S I G N BY DAV I D YA R R I T U.
1 The avalanche-protection air-bag

backpack is one of the greatest
innovations in snow-sport equipment,
2 Whether you’re playing pickup hockey
or holding your son’s hand as he
learns to skate on a frozen pond, Bauer
3 And you’ll need a stick to match.
Bauer’s carbon-fiber Nexus 1N
Stick ($280; bauer.com) is light, flexible,
4 Sure, you can get by with those plastic
disks you pick up at the neighborhood
hardware store, but for something serious
and this year the North Face debuted the Vapor 1X skates ($900; bauer.com) offer a and durable as hell, with shaping and that lets you stack yourself and the kids four
Modulator ABS ($1,000; thenorthface.com)— lightweight, close-fitting boot with rock-solid construction that enhance both puck to five deep, L. L. Bean’s classic hardwood
an unobtrusive add-on that you can attach ankle support and cutting-edge blades for control and trash-talking capabilities. slatted toboggan ($150; llbean.com) is
to any pack and activate in the terrifying agility and speed. The black-and-red styling (Kidding. We think.) the vehicle of choice. It’ll make you feel
event of an avalanche. It’ll help you rise to is pure menace, too. like you’re sledding right out of a Norman
the top of the heap, the easier for rescuers Rockwell painting.
to find you.
B
B B
2015
The Smartest
Watches in the World

Well before the wizards of Cupertino started tinkering
with time, generations of watchmakers,
many of them Swiss, most of them brilliant, have been
engineering mechanical timepieces that perform
horological wonders. Over the following pages,
we look at today’s highest-functioning,
highest-performing watches, most of which do
what they do better than anything else in the world.
IWC and the Annual Calendar. >

One expects a watch to keep time. That is, after all, why most of us wear function from IWC shows the month, date, and day of the week in three
a watch in the first place. But for a watch to track not just hours and windows on the dial, and thanks to some in-house mechanical magic in
minutes but also the day, the week, and the month, and for the watch the movement, it even takes into account the different numbers of days
to do so with minimal intervention from the owner—that is what the in the passing months. Only once a year, because of February’s smug
Swiss might call some next-level scheisse. The new Annual Calendar refusal to play by the rules, does one need to correct the date manually.
P h o t o g r a p h s b y B E N G O L D ST E I N
S t e e l Por t u g i e s e r A n n u a l C a l e n d a r wa t c h ( $ 2 1,3 0 0 ) by I WC ; i wc.c o m .
The Watches
Incredible materials, and
great design, make
for incredible watches.
Like Ralph Lauren’s Automotive watch, with a bezel

made from an incredibly rare species of wood,
amboyna burl. Or the ultrafine rose-gold case of Her-
mès’s new Slim d’Hermès. Or the forged-carbon-and-
black-ceramic case of Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak
chronograph. Cartier, meanwhile, has given its el-
egant new steel-and-rose-gold Clé de Cartier watch
a “tightly drawn curve” silhouette—neither circle
nor square but somewhere pleasingly in-between.
Fro m l e f t : Ro s e - g o l d S l i m
d ’ H e r m è s wa t c h ( $ 1 8,50 0 )
by H e r m è s ; h e r m e s .c o m .
S t eel -and -ros e-g ol d C l é d e
C ar t i er wat ch ($9,6 5 0) by
C ar t i e r; c a r t i e r.u s . C a r b o n -
and-black-ceramic Royal
O ak O ffs hore chronog r ap h
($36,900) by Audemars
Piguet; audemarspiguet.
com . R L Aut om ot i ve wat ch
($ 14,000) by R al p h L auren
Fine Watchmaking; ralph-
l a u re nwa t c h e s .c o m .
The Watches
The Extra 10
Percent of the
extraordinary
watch face.
Perhaps it’s the aperture that

tracks the cycle of the moon over
the course of a lunar month. Or
maybe it’s the two or three subdials
that enable the owner to time his
various feats. Think of the Extra
10 Percent found on extraordinary
watch faces as evidence of perfor-
mance capabilities well beyond
the mere keeping of time.
C l o c k w i s e f ro m t o p : S t e e l H e r i t a g e C h ro n o m e t r i e D u a l Ti m e
watch ($4, 200) by Montblanc; montblanc.com. Rose-gold
L .U.C Reg ul at or wat ch ($ 33,5 30) by C hop ard ; us .c h o p a rd .
com. White-gold chronograph with Pulsemtric Scale ($81,100)
by Patek Philippe; patek.com. Red-gold Senator Cosmopolite
wat ch ($4 3,500) by G l as hüt t e O r i g i nal ; g l as hut t e- o r i g i n a l .
com . S t eel Vi l l eret C om p l et e C al end ar wat ch ($ 14,9 0 0 ) by
Bl ancp ai n; b l ancp ai n.com .
The Watches
Amazing movements
can do amazing things.
Like Omega’s new Globemaster, which meets the most exacting standards of accuracy
ever set by several of the world’s governing watch bodies. Or Panerai’s Equation of Time
watch, which lets its owner track the “true time” as it’s influenced by earth’s inclination
and elliptical orbit. Or Zenith’s El Primero, launched in 1969, a pioneering automatic
chronograph that can measure up to a tenth of a second. TAG Heuer, whose founder
invented the oscillating pinion for pocket watches back in 1887, knows from amazing
movements, too, and with its Carrera Calibre 1887, it has produced one of the better
chronographs keeping time today.
Fro m l e f t : S t e e l - a n d -S e d n a - g o l d
G l ob em as t er C o-A xi al Mas t er
C hronom et er C al i b re 8900 wat ch
($ 1 2,000) by O m eg a; om eg a-
wa t c h e s .c o m . S t e e l E l P r i m -
ero C hronom as t er 1969 wat ch
($9,800) by Zenith; zenith-watch-
es.com. Steel Radiomir 1940
Eq uat i on of Ti m e 8 D ay s wat ch
($20,100) by Panerai; panerai.
com. Steel C arrera C alibre 1887
automatic chronograph ($4,800)
by TAG H e u e r; t a g h e u e r.c o m .
di Bianco scarpe
TM
Artisanal Modern Italia

Andrisen Morton Barneys New York Bergdorf Goodman
Denver Barneys.com New York
AndrisenMorton.com BergdorfGoodman.com
Garys Stanley Korshak Trunk Club

Newport Beach Dallas
GarysOnline.com StanleyKorshak.com TrunkClub.com
www.scarpedibianco.com info@scarpedibianco.com
The Watches
As any yachtsman knows, the

ten-minute preamble before a
10, 9, 8 . . . race is critical to a good start

off the gun. With the Yacht-
the reversal Master II, Rolex has perfected

its unique countdown function,
of time. one that can be “programmed”

and locked by turning the
rotating blue Cerachrom bezel
through 90 degrees. Skippers
can preset the function and
trigger it by hitting the button
at two o’clock to track the
countdown using the designat-
ed horseshoe-shaped window
on the dial.
S t eel O y s t er Per p et ual Yac h t - M a s t e r II

($18,7 50) by Rolex; rolex.com.
The Watches
Technical.
Functional.
Tough.
Like Breitling’s Emergency watch,

which features a dual-frequency
transmitter that helps rescue teams
find an owner in peril. Or Oris’s Big
Crown ProPilot, the world’s first
automatic mechanical watch with
a mechanical altimeter to measure
altitude. Or Breguet’s XXII, a fly-
back GMT chronograph inspired by
the military watches the company
made for French navy pilots in
the 1950s. Or Bell & Ross’s BR-X1
skeleton chronograph, an extreme
version of its iconic BR-01. Bremont,
meanwhile, has introduced a new
version of its MBI watch that has
undergone, and passed, some of
the most extreme endurance tests
possible. (How extreme? It’s shaken
rigorously to simulate the 30-year
life of a helicopter.) C l o c k w i s e f ro m l e f t : S t e e l - P V D - a n d - t i t a n i u m B R-X 1
watch ($19,500) by Bell & Ross; bellross.com. Steel
Type XXII Flyback chronograph ($21,600) by Breg-
uet ; b reg uet .com . S t eel Bi g C rown P roP i l ot A l t i m et e r
($3,800) by Oris; oris.ch. Steel MBIII watch ($6,395)
by Brem ont ; b rem ont .com . Ti t ani um Em erg ency wat c h
($ 1 6,47 5 ) by Brei t l i ng ; b rei t l i ng .com .
Fal l E s q uire’s Pa ge
H E R I TA G E
THE
Standard-Bearers
Hillary, left, and Tenzing Norgay, just

after their historic summit of the peak;
the route of their ascent.
Page E s q uire’s
82 Big Black B o ok
the rise and reign of down jackets than Mon- their ascent of K2, the world’s second-highest als, like ultrathin, supersoft napa leather and
cler. (Okay, fine: Geese maybe have had more mountain. Several generations of jackets later, all manner of nylon (stretchy kinds and satiny
to do with it. But then Moncler.) Established the company continues to experiment and ex- kinds and lacquered kinds). And there have
in 1952 in Monestier-de-Clermont, France (the pand under the leadership of owner and house been updates and remakes of what came be-
company’s name is a portmanteau of the vil- visionary Remo Ruffini. There have been col- fore, like Moncler’s original coats from the
lage in which the idea for the brand was con- laborations with a variety of fashion design- 1950s, designed for the aforementioned Italian
ceived), to make quilted sleeping bags and ers, most notably Thom Browne for Mon- mountaineers and their French contemporary,
tents for alpine climbers, Moncler made its cler Gamme Bleu, to create singular riffs on Lionel Terray. The adventure, for Ruffini and all
first down-filled jacket in 1954 and came to out- the classic down-filled jackets. There have who wear his jackets, continues.
Fa ll
2015
There is one way and one way only for a cloth- nature pattern in the 1870s: argyle. (So iconic cial, high-tech printing with the very old, very
ing brand to see its 200th year: adapt, adapt, is argyle that it’s hard to believe anyone or traditional method of weaving natural fibers
adapt. (Okay, fine: three ways.) What began anything actually invented it.) More recently, just made sense.” He is also transforming knit-
in 1815 as a hosiery and underwear manu- Pringle’s head of design, Massimo Nicosia, wear into the darndest things, creating suits,
facturer quickly moved beyond woolen socks championed three-dimensional printing tech- overcoats, and even bomber jackets from the
and long johns into high-end knitwear, with niques to provide depth and texture to pat- finest, warmest weaves. Still, it’s the sweater
Pringle of Scotland proving an early champion terns. “It came quite naturally,” says Nicosia of that Pringle does best, and where Nicosia and
of cashmere and even developing its own sig- the move into 3-D. “This combination of artifi- company take it next is anyone’s guess.
A G AV E D E N I M . C O M
What I’ve Learned
APA SHERPA
Mountain climber, world-record holder
for number of successful ascents
of Mount Everest, 55, Draper, Utah
It’s an ethnic name. We believe our ances-

tors migrated from eastern Tibet about 500
or 600 years ago. Sherpa literally means
“people from the east.” Everyone in our re-
gion, Khumbu, and who believe their ances-
tors came from Tibet all bear the same last
name.
It took me six hours to walk to school ev-

ery day—three hours to get there and three
hours back. I didn’t have good shoes. Some-
times in monsoons I had no rain jacket and
no umbrella. But still, every day, I did it.
I’m not that tall or big. I’m a little guy,

and people could not believe how I’d carry
30 kilos on my back up a mountain. But I
was strong.
On my first expedition to a big mountain,

in 1987, I was hit by an avalanche on a moun-
tain called Annapurna. After we set up camp,
we were changing our clothes and some
other climbers were getting ready to take off
their boots. At that moment, the avalanche
came roaring toward our camp. We locked
our arms like a chain and stuck our heads
in a hole big enough to breathe as the ava-
lanche hit. One Sherpa was severely injured.
After a few minutes we managed to come
out of it. We had to spend the night with no
food and no other clothes to wear. I thought I Gloves are very important. Soft gloves. That’s my goal—how to make a place for
might freeze to death, and the next day, other The gloves have to have down in them. We education. Because without education we
climbers came to our rescue. also have to have thin layers within gloves; have no choices.
otherwise, when we take off our gloves
What does it feel like to be close to dying? to check the time or check oxygen levels, we For most Sherpas, it’s a job. We have to climb
It is terrifying. lose our fingers. to support our families and to send our kids
to school. For those who come from outside
We live high up, right? We’re used to the The first time I did it, I was very excited. Nepal, they should do it for adventure. Everest
cold. But it’s still cold. Sometimes minus–50 Before I got to the top, I was kind of unsure will test your physical and mental limits. It
degrees cold. We have to be prepared. Five whether I could make it or not: Everest is too will teach you to be patient, and most impor-
or six layers. A good down jacket. A good high. Maybe I can’t make it. Can I make it? But I tant, it’s gratifying when you stand on the top
down snowsuit. Shoes. Glasses. Gloves. was thinking too much. And when I finally got of the world.
And we have to take backup. Two pairs of there, I thought: We are on top of the world.
everything in our day pack, so if we lose Apa Sherpa is the director and cofounder of
something we can grab the other one right I retired in 2011. My family and my wife, they the Utah-based Apa Sherpa Foundation, an
away. Otherwise, lose a glove, frostbite. Lose kept telling me, “You better stop, you better education-and-environmental-awareness
glasses, snow-blind. stop.” Now I think a lot about helping Nepal. foundation to benefit the people of Nepal.
MIAMI - LAS VEGAS
I N ST R U CT I O N The New Fundamentals:
Eight exhortations to consider before choosing a new best friend this winter
But first, a question:

WHAT GOOD IS AN OVERCOAT?
Well, it keeps you warm, for starters. And it
can cover up the whole of your person should
the whole of your person require covering up.
And you could ball it up and use it to silence
a gun, we guess, if it really comes to it. These
are all important uses. Noble (if potentially
unlawful) uses. However, none of them is the
most important possible use of a good over-
coat, which is simply this: A good overcoat
helps define and broadcast to the world who,
exactly, you think you are. It’s a first impres-
sion, a display of sophistication and taste, the
outermost expression of you being you. And
while not much has changed functionally
with the overcoat over the course of our life-
time, it has come out of the closet as the most
interesting thing a man can wear.
Much of this is owed to designers rescuing
the overcoat from the doldrums of safe, conser-
vative men’s wear and subjecting it to the same
creative energy given the rest of our ward-
robes. Hemlines go up and down, silhouettes go
in and out, colors and patterns fly, and even the
essential architecture might undergo a reno.
Just as so many suits have been stripped down,
relieved of cumbersome structure, and ren-
dered altogether more relaxed for those situa-
tions in which a suit might not be required but
you feel like wearing one anyway, an overcoat
today can seem so much lighter and less con-
stricting than it used to be. (Think of it as the
trickle-up theory of deconstructed tailoring.)
Much of this is owed, too, to the growing
legions of men who’ve been loosening up and
looking to take a chance, with many of us in-
spired, perhaps, by the street-style-photog-
raphy revolution of the past few years. These
images, so ubiquitous online and on social Cary Grant in London
media, introduced the world to the fashion- in 1946 in a Crombie
forward store buyers and editors working King coat, a style worn
by King George VI. A
the industry circuit, from the Pitti Uomo trade
modern version, called
show in Florence to the fashion weeks of New the Cuthbert, is avail-
York, London, Milan, and Paris. These men, able from Crombie this
who back before the advent of the Sartorial- fall (crombie.com.uk).
ist et al. used to dress simply to impress each
other, now have a global audience, and to
Page E s q uire’s
88 Big Black B o ok
make that all-important impact, they start all valid options, too, as are a myriad of prints
with the biggest and most impactful piece and patterns. Suede? Why not. Quilted? Sure.
of clothing they’ve got on. No wonder that (Texture, in the form of boiled wool, basket
each winter we are bombarded with images weave, bouclé: all good.) Single-breasted
of these smartly dressed men cloaked in works everywhere. Double-breasted, too.
enviable outerwear. And no wonder that they There are lapels big enough to cover your en-
stock their sales floors and the pages of their tire head, graphic details that will turn you
magazines with the coats they themselves into a walking work of art, and iterations that
covet and collect. The result, put simply: more aren’t very overcoat-like at all, such as fish-
options for everyone, and with options come tail parkas and extended MA-1-style bomb-
opportunities. ers. It’s all on the table.
About all those options and opportunities: Winter is often seen as the season when
It’s easy to get overwhelmed and retreat to you bundle up and put functionality above
familiar ground. Resist the impulse. Navy any personal expression of style you might
and black remain the safest choices, but want to convey. But this year those two things
charcoal and camel are increasingly popular align: Be bold. Stay warm. The overcoat has
hues. Scarlet, cobalt, and hunter-green are your back. —N OA H JO H N SO N
2. Insist on
One Killer
Detail
Like, say, the martingale
strap, also known as a
half belt and found at the
back of many military-
inspired overcoats.
Originally intended to
button and unbutton to fit
the wearer’s waist, it’s
now mostly a decorative
element (like epaulets)
1. Pick a Camel Coat. Any Camel Coat. that conveys (but doesn’t
’Cause there are tons of them arriving in stores right now, and there are countless varia-
tions on this golden-brown men’s-wear workhorse. Options range from burnt umber actually have) a sense
(like the single-breasted Boglioli coat, above left) to something altogether more buttery of purpose. Wool coat
(like this one from Lardini, above right, an abbreviated, streamlined alternative to the
traditional polo coat). Wool coat ($1,995) by Boglioli; barneys.com. Double-breasted wool coat ($3,372) by Isaia; isaia.it.
($1,500) by Lardini; kilgoretrout.com.
Fa ll
2015
The New
Fundamentals:
Overcoats
3. Make
Sure It Fits.
(Or, You
Know,
Don’t.)
Point: Clothing is best
enjoyed when it really
fits. (See: the second-skin-
like DB coat at far left.)
Counterpoint: A roomy
coat, ample enough for an
NFL lineman (near left),
makes a bold statement
and demonstrates confi-
dence. Your call. From
left: Wool-and-cashmere
coat ($3,895) by Ermene-
gildo Zegna; zegna.com.
Cashmere coat (price
upon request) by Botte-
ga Veneta; 800-845-6790.
5. Lower Your
4. Warm Voice
Up to Unlike sport jackets—which are
relatively restrained in square-
Shearling inchage and therefore perfect

for louder, brighter prints,
stripes, and plaids—overcoats
Supremely warm, ex- can require up to four or five
tremely soft, and optimal yards of fabric to create and
can be a lot for the eye to take
for a cold winter’s day. in. When opting for a patterned
You’ll feel like a sheep (in coat, remember that smaller-
scale plaids and stripes and more
the best possible way). neutral shades of red, green, and
even blue are as far as one will
Shearling coat ($6,825) want to venture. Wool trench coat
by Canali; canali.com. ($1,797) by Isaia; isaia.it.
The New
Fundamentals:
Overcoats
7. 3-D Textures
Are the Ultimate
Special Effect
Like casentino, the type of wool that
makes up this Belvest coat and that has
been prepilled so that it looks lived-in
upon purchase. Wool coat ($2,895) by
Belvest; 212-317-0460.
6. Expand Your
(Blue) Horizons
The proportions and details of these two coats are
8. Believe in the
identical, yet their varying shades of blue put them in differ-
Latter-Day Peacoat
ent ZIP codes. From the navy-gray mélange of the Brunello There is no end to the options available to
a man in search of a peacoat. Better, then,
Cucinelli coat (above left) to a lighter, brighter shade like to depart from the standard dark blue
this double-faced cashmere option from Belvest (above in favor of military-green, oatmeal, or
even slate-gray. While you’re at it, ixnay
right), there is nothing sober or somber about them. Cash- the gleaming gold buttons. Wool-and-
cashmere peacoat ($995) by Burberry Brit;
mere coat ($6,570) by Brunello Cucinelli; brunello cuci- burberry.com.
nelli.com. Cashmere coat ($2,595) by Belvest; 212-317-0460.
“FORTUNE FAVORS
THE BOLD.”
— VIRGIL —
Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon — a rare balance of

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CARS
THE
What you want to be driving when the weatherman says

you shouldn’t be driving
B y SA M S M I T H
THE 1979–87 MERCEDES-BENZ 240 GD:
Oldie? Goody.
THERE ARE THREE LEGITIMATE REASONS to buy a Mercedes G- stout drivetrains usually run forever, and the locking differentials—most
Class: You are establishing a private army, and you want an all-terrain SUVs don’t even have one—chew up anything from an African foot-
vehicle beloved by the world’s militaries; you are a patriotic German path to a snow-filled ditch. Ground clearance resembles that of a bar-
farmer who doesn’t trust traditional tractors, and you really need two stool. Short of rolling a G onto its roof, it’s virtually impossible to get one
locking differentials for stump-pulling; or you live in the Arctic, own zero stranded in dirt, mud, or white stuff.
tools, and hate getting stuck in blizzards. Modern G-Classes feature leather seats, four doors, complex V-8’s,
None of those reasons likely apply to you. and high sticker prices. The early 240 GDs, produced roughly from 1979
Most people, in fact, do not fit any of those categories and thus really to 1987 and available from vintage dealers, are simpler and lighter but
don’t need a G-Class. (The G stands for Geländewagen, or, roughly, “off- also far less expensive, with cloth seats, rubber carpet, a manual trans-
road vehicle.” German subtlety at its best.) However, like a lot of me- mission, a grunty four-cylinder diesel, and an optional two-door body.
chanical icons, the thing’s inherent rightness outweighs logic. First sold It’s less limousine, more rock crawler, and better for it. You’re buying a
in 1979 and still in production, the G looks military because it is—every- rarity: Doors shut with the unstoppable thunk of an old German luxu-
one from the United States Marine Corps to the German border police ry car, and off you go, wherever you verdammt well please. Prices vary
has used it on patrol. Credit the truck’s ladder frame, rugged but nimble depending on condition, engine, etc., but figure good ones begin at around
solid axles, and simple body, all of which can swallow gobs of abuse. The $15,000. Start with Craigslist or your local vintage Mercedes dealer.
B O N O B O S . CO M
T H E ROA D WA R R I O RS
THE 2015 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LIMITED ECODIESEL:
No Stopping
EVERYONE HAS A WINTER JEEP STORY. Your grandfather drove one torque at just 2000 rpm, no smoke or real noise, and a glassy highway
across France in late 1945, maybe, or your dad met your mom while pull- demeanor that would shame a limousine. There’s an available low-range
ing her car from a snowdrift in 1969. Your best friend in college would do gear set and air suspension, both of which make life easier when things
doughnuts in his Wrangler whenever a blizzard shut the city down. Note get weird. Because it’s a Grand Cherokee, there’s also a host of after-
the theme: No stopping. That’s the thing about Jeeps. If the brand had a market equipment that will let you personalize, uprate, or just plain
coat of arms, D E AT H B E F O R E ST R A N D E D would be emblazoned on the top apocalypse-ify the thing. Best of all, the truck can give up to 700 miles of
in Latin. The diesel Grand Cherokee is no exception, and the difference range on a single tank—enough to head off into the boonies, get lost, find
between it and previous generations of Jeeps is its power train: The oil- your way out, pull a few people from ditches, get lost again, and then drive
burning Grand Cherokee uses a 3.0-liter, 28-mpg turbo-diesel V-6 devel- home without stopping. Because that’s what you do in a Jeep, no matter
oped in concert with Italian specialist VM Motori. It offers up 420 lb-ft of the season. From $42,060; jeep.com.
belvest.com
MADE IN ITALY
THE 2015 AUDI A3:
All-Wheel When We Need It

FOR DECADES, THE RULES WERE SIMPLE: Mass-produced passenger ter as much as the chef behind the engineering. And what you’re ac-
cars had two driven wheels. Serious off-road vehicles used all four. Then, tually getting for your money: If you’re on a budget, the base A3 2.0T,
in the early 1980s, Audi introduced its Quattro coupe, with permanent all- at 5.8 seconds to 60 mph and $34,095, is more than enough; for a little
wheel drive. The model marked the first appearance of the brand’s pro- more, the $41,995 S3 gets you 292 hp and 4.7 seconds. It’ll do that last
prietary Quattro technology (it was named after the car), a version of number all day long in any weather, and without so much as breaking
which is sold to this day. Quattro the car dominated international rally a sweat. From $34,095; audiusa.com.
racing, offering the traction of a truck in slippery weather but the nimble
handling of a sedan. And for ordinary drivers, it illustrated a cardinal rule
in winter: With drive wheels, you want all hands on deck.
The Audi A3 is the Quattro’s spiritual successor. For one thing, it And Don’t Forget Your Snow Tires
features an updated, electronically assisted form of the brand’s all-
wheel-drive system. Like most modern cars, it’s easy to haul ass with EVEN IF MOST SNOW TIRES these days aren’t snow tires, per se, they’re
in winter because the computers help you get the engine’s power to the winter tires, which means they’re good in more than just snow, and
they have better wet, cold, slush, ice, and snow traction than all-season
ground. But chiefly, you get Audi’s history—after more than 30 years
or summer tires. If they’re Finnish or made by Michelin or Bridgestone
of perfecting four-wheel-drive cars, the German brand knows them
(especially the Bridgestone Blizzak, a standard-bearer for years), they’ll
like nobody else. Which means a remarkable focus on the driver and be excellent. The capabilities vary: Some are happier on dry pavement
what you need to know in order to annihilate nasty roads: communi- than others, some wear longer, some are better on ice than snow. But
cative steering, a compact and easily placed chassis, and a sense of they’re all great and relatively affordable, and they last forever, since you
what the car is doing, seemingly hardwired to the base of your spine. use them only one season a year. The secret, then, is buying them. Any of
All-wheel-drive cars are everywhere now, but the recipe doesn’t mat- them. Doesn’t really matter; you can’t go wrong, only less right. —S. S.
MEN OF
THE
SECRET WEAPONS
ST Y L E
When temperatures drop and things start to get nasty, there is often the temptation to throw
elegance out the window and wear whatever keeps you warm. This need not be so.
We spoke to the men’s-wear gurus of America’s four leading luxury department stores about
how they manage to stay warm and look their best all winter long.
“You can’t go wrong with

TOD’S CHUKKA BOOTS.
I prefer chocolate-brown
suede, which I know in
the middle of winter
sounds crazy, but if you
have a shoemaker spray
and waterproof it at the
beginning of the season, it’s
extremely resilient. Suede’s
also an amazingly warm
material, so you don’t even
need any thick socks or
lining in your shoes.” Suede
chukka boots ($675) by
Tod’s; tods.com.
TOM KALENDERIAN of Barneys

FO R H I S C OAT: “The one that really FO R H I S K E Y L AY E R : “I always wear FO R H I S G LOV E S: “I like peccary.
I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY A N J E JAG E R
works for me is from Battistoni. It’s a blazer, so I like to layer up with It’s plump, it’s soft, it gets better with
a three-quarter-length charcoal coat cashmere and cashmere-silk knits age, and even when peccary gloves
made out of Loro Piana Storm Sys- from Svevo or fine-gauge knitwear are unlined, they’re still extremely
tem, and it’s surprisingly lightweight from Fiorini. Layering can mean warm. In our Barneys private-label
but at the same time very, very the difference between feeling truly collection, our peccary gloves hap-
resistant to cold. I think the wind- bone-deep warm and . . . not.” pen to be lined with white cashmere,
proof nature of Storm System, and but even without the lining, they’re
its water repellency, help keep you the warmest gloves I own.”
warm but not too warm.”
LENZBURG JACKET
Visit select Lord & Taylor

locations or shop online at
LordAndTaylor.com
MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | VICTORINOX.COM

T H E S EC R E T W E A P O N S
“I’m obsessed with

HERNO right now, and
coming up this season,
there’s a long coat that’s
extremely warm but not
too puffy. I can wear it
anywhere.” Polar-Tech
long parka with fur
trim ($1,155) by Herno;
bloomingdales.com.
KEVIN HARTER of Bloomingdale’s

FO R H I S B O OTS: “Nobody wants to FO R H I S S CA R F: “I prefer a finer- FO R H I S H AT: “I wear a cashmere-
go to work looking like they’re about weave cashmere scarf, and this knit hat from our Bloomingdale’s
to go for a hike in the woods (unless winter Drake’s has some great private-label collection. No patterns
that’s their job), so I like the dressy double-faced-cashmere options with or anything that would take away
leather lace-up boots with lug soles some incredible patterns. You can’t from your outerwear or scarf. Just
from Grenson. I never slip or slide in beat double-faced cashmere for the simple, clean, and warm as hell.”
a good lug sole.” softness and warmth.”
“I have cashmere-knit fingerless

GLOVES FROM BERGDORF
GOODMAN’S private line. I’m
typing away on my phone all
the time, and instead of taking
gloves on and off, going from hot
to cold and back again, fingerless
gloves are all I need to keep my
hands as warm as I need them to
be.” Cashmere fingerless gloves
($125) by Bergdorf Goodman;
bergdorfgoodman.com.
BRUCE PASK of Bergdorf Goodman

FO R H I S PA R K A: “The minute the FO R H I S K E Y L AY E R : “A Moncler FO R H I S B O OTS: “I wear a very
Yves Salomon parkas arrived on our down vest. Throw it over your tweed sturdy pair of Church’s lace-up
shop floor, I bought one. Mine is this coat and underneath a wool topcoat wing-tip boots all winter. The key
rugged army-green parka that is and you’re ready for anything.” to making them last is to clean and
also lined with fur, and the juxtapo- condition them regularly. Other-
sition between utility and luxury, wise the salt and the water will
especially when worn with tailored ruin them and you’re stuck buying
clothing, is something I really enjoy.” and breaking in a new pair of boots
every winter.”
1 04 Big Black B o ok 2015
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“My secret to warmth begins

and ends with lightweight
layering. Lots and lots of light
layers that I can peel off or pile
on depending on the time and
conditions of the day. On top of
it all is usually a wool topcoat—
there is nothing better than
wool. It’s naturally water-
and wind-resistant, and for
warmth, it’s hard to beat. I have
lots of them—from Burberry,
from NEIL BARRETT, from
lots of designers.” Wool
mélange coat ($1,870) by Neil
Barrett; neilbarrett.com.
ERIC JENNINGS of Saks Fifth Avenue

FO R H I S K E Y L AY E R : “Lightweight FO R H I S B O OTS: “Ferragamo made FO R H I S S O C KS : “This past winter,
puffer vests are essential, and I my favorite ones last season, and I picked up a few pairs of cashmere
have two from Canada Goose (one there’s nothing supertechnical about socks from our Saks Fifth Avenue
in black and one in blue). They’re them. They’re just straightforward private label, and I accidentally put
down, so they’re warm, but they’re lace-up boots with a leather sole, them in the washer and the dryer.
so lightweight you can wear them and my trick is to get a rubber piece They came out really fluffy and cozy,
underneath a suit jacket.” put on the sole by a shoemaker to and they’re like wearing little furry
protect it from salt and water on kittens on my feet.”
the sidewalks.”
I N ST R U CT I O N The New Fundamentals:
But first, a question:

WHY BOTHER WITH ACCESSORIES?
If summer is the season when man tries to
sneak by in as close to his natural state as so-
ciety or his office dress code allows, winter
is its maximal cousin. Winter is a time of sar-
torial refulgence, the season of the fully em-
ployed closet and the whatever-works men-
tality. Besides the flannels and the high-ply
sweaters, besides the 16-ounce wool suits and
the 19-ounce denim, frigid temperatures de-
mand nothing less than the best scarves, hats,
gloves, and boots at your disposal. If accesso-
ries spend nine months of the year as bit play-
ers in a man’s wardrobe, nice to have but by no
means necessary, come winter they become
mission critical.
Each has a role to play. Scarves are our loud-
er talkers, all stripes and patterns and chunky,
indomitable knits. (Loop them up, over, and
around your neck, and let them speak.) Hats
are our strong-and-silent types—they prevent
warmth from escaping and ears from aching,
and in a perfect world, they rarely call much
attention to themselves. (Think twice about
pom-poms, please.) Boots are brute force in-
carnate, stomping through whatever muck
and mayhem gets in your way. (There’s a good
reason they’re called shitkickers.) And then
there are gloves. A well-made glove is a thing
of beauty, a marvel of engineering and élan,
and possibly the single most important thing a
man’s got going for him.
You want a pair of gloves you’re not embar-
rassed about, nothing chunky or that makes
your hand look as though it were drawn by a
five-year-old. Such a feat takes a lot of work.
As Daniel Storto, the last remaining glove
maker in Gloversville, New York, the upstate
town that was once America’s glove-making
capital, explains, “When you make a glove, Robert E. Peary in
you are dealing with fit in a very intimate 1909, one of the few
way.” The ideal gloves fit more snugly than be- early Arctic explorers to
spoke suits but, at the same time, must not in- fully adopt Inuit clothing
(including accessories)
hibit mobility. According to Storto, traditional
made from fox, polar
glove making employs a team of highly spe- bear, and seal hides.
cialized workers: the leather stretchers, the
thumb stitchers, the trank cutters, the quirk
Page E s q uire’s
1 08 Big Black B o ok
inserters (quirk being a technical term for the little diamond-shaped South America and also known as skunk pig, is the most luxurious
bits of leather in between the bases of the fingers). You can’t count the kind, but anything dense, durable, and soft will keep the chill at bay
people who make a glove on one hand. A great pair of gloves will cost and keep your hands agile. (Wool gloves do wonders for warming, too.)
you, but a great pair of gloves is almost always worth the extra money. Here we come to the inherent danger of a pair of gloves. Lose a hat
They are in winter what shoes are the rest of the year: a handy way to and it’s gone. Leave a scarf behind and you’ll soon forget it. But when
read the man wearing them. you lose one glove, brother, you’d better lose both. A single glove is
It goes without saying that mittens are forbidden. (They hint of sloth worse than no glove at all. It’s a reminder of one’s own inability to keep
and lassitude, since one can barely grasp anything at all with undif- safe the things one loves, like posting a picture of your ex on your re-
ferentiated fingers.) And unless you plan to get down and dirty in the frigerator door. But does that mean you should brave winter cold-hand-
snow or you’re already fully clothed in a mille-feuille of trademarked, ed and alone? No. It means it’s time to slip on a pair of gloves (along
man-made performance fabrics, not many materials beat leather; it’s with the rest of your winter accessories), grasp tightly all you hold
God’s Thinsulate. Peccary, derived from a cute wild boar native to dear, and step into the storm. —JOSHUA DAVID STEIN
E XOT I C
P EC CA RY
Beloved by men who know from the good
stuff (see page 100), they have a soft, plump
CA L FS K I N body that is naturally warming, and
Incredibly warm and supremely the hide’s pores form a distinctive pattern.
elegant, with or without a wool lining.
Woe unto him who loses one.
Ermenegildo Zegna; zegna.com.
Le at her g l ove s ($ 1 25 ) by C oach;
coach.com .
C u cin ell i; brune lloc uc ine lli.c om.
Fa ll
2015
The New THICK
Fundamentals:
Accessories
Three Hats Wool s car f ($41 5) by Lo u i s Vu i t t o n ;

louisvuitton.com.
THE FEDORA
This men’s-wear classic helps trap body heat as
it escapes your head while adding a dash of
the roué to whatever else you’re wearing. However, it
does precious little to shield the ears.
Fu r-felt h a t ($245) by Ste tson;

jjh a t cente r.c om
THIN
THIN
T H E G ROW N - U P B E A N I E
Otherwise known as a skullcap, this soft,
ribbed, fitted hat compresses tightly
around the upper head and down over the
ears. Beware the hat head.
S i l k s car f ($ 225 ) by
C a s h m e re b e a n i e ( $ 3 9 0 ) by B r u n e l l o Er m eneg i l d o Zeg na;
C u cin elli; bru n elloc uc ine lli.c om. zegna.com.
B OT H . N E I T H E R .
I’M C O L D.
B OT H . N E I T H E R .
I’M C O L D.
THE TRAPPER A medium-gauge knit,
The big gun, with a faux-fur (or, as here, real fur)
typically in softer wool,
lining and trim to provide insulation and protection
for your head and ears. It lacks the dignity or inherent is a happy medium
stylishness of the beanie or fedora, but it’s cold out between the above two.
there. What the hell do you care?
Wool scar f ($685) by
C a l fs k i n - a n d - b e aver- f u r h a t ( $ 3,87 5 ) Lo u i s Vu i t t o n ;
by H e r m è s ; h e r m e s .c o m . louisvuitton.com.
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design, produced in a limited edition of only 250 pieces. Lightweight and resistant, the Carbone Forgé ® case of the BR-X1 is protected by a high-tech ceramic
bezel with a rubber strap. Ergonomic and innovative, the push buttons allow the chronograph functions to be used easily and efficiently. Sophisticated
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The New
Fundamentals:
Accessories T H E H I K I N G B O OT
Suede-and-vachetta boots
T H E SA RTO R I A L
B O OT
Le a t h er bo o t s ($710 )
by C h u rch’s ; ch u rch -
CASHMERE-
WOOL-AND-NYLON socks—
7:05 am
TRAVEL
Post-workout
breakfast in
the room.
RE- 8:00 am
INVENTED
Cab it to a meeting.
Take a conference
call on the way.
With 200+ hotels, we’re everywhere 4:10

Deal done.
pm
you want to be. With modern, classic Pregame check-in.
design and always-approachable
service, we offer what matters most to 6:15 pm
Meet the team
keep you comfortable and connected. for dinner.
This is Four Points.
FOURPOINTS.COM
7:40 pm
Kick back, relax
with beers and
the game.
©2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Four Points and their logos are the trademarks
of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.
PROMOTION
BEST CLASS
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the finest men’s
OF specialty stores
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THE GOLD STANDARD | THESE STORES

CONTINUOUSLY RAISE THE BAR ON WHAT IT
MEANS TO BE THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS.
A. TAGHI, Houston, TX LINDSAY ODOM LTD., High Point, NC;

ANDRISEN MORTON MEN’S, Greensboro, NC
Denver, CO M PENNER, Houston, TX
BARNEYS NEW YORK, New York, NY MALOUF’S, Lubbock, TX
BATTAGLIA, Beverly Hills, CA MARIO’S, Portland, OR; Seattle, WA;
BAUMANS MEN’S SHOP, Little Rock, AR Tigard, OR
BEECROFT & BULL, Richmond, VA; MARSHS, Huntington, NY
Virginia Beach, VA; Charlottesville, VA MAUS & HOFFMAN, Fort Lauderdale,
BERGDORF GOODMAN, New York, NY FL; Naples, FL; Palm Beach, FL; Vero
Beach, FL
BERLIN’S , Charleston, SC
MICHAEL DURU CLOTHIERS,
BILLY REID, Florence, AL; New York, NY;
Shrewsbury, NJ; New York, NY
Dallas, TX; Houston, TX; Nashville, TN;
Charleston, SC; Atlanta, GA MITCHELLS, Westport, CT
BOYDS, Philadelphia, PA MR. OOLEY’S, Oklahoma City, OK
BURDI CLOTHING, Chicago, IL MR. SID, Newton, MA
BUTCH BLUM, Seattle, WA NIC’S TOGGERY, Tallahassee, FL
CAPRA & CAVELLI, Austin, TX NORTON DITTO, Houston, TX
CUFFS, Chagrin Falls, OH OAK HALL, Memphis, TN
DAVIDE CENCI, New York, NY PAUL SIMON COMPANY, Charlotte, NC
DAVIDSONS, Roanoke, VA PERLIS, New Orleans, LA
DE CORATO, New York, NY PETER ELLIOT MEN’S, New York, NY
EDWARD ARCHER, Southampton, NY PITKIN COUNTY DRY GOODS,
Aspen, CO
ERTEKIN, Plano, TX; Dallas Fort
Worth Airport PLATINO, Bellagio Las Vegas
F. CAMALO, Lafayette, LA POCKETS, Dallas, TX
FORTY FIVE TEN, Dallas, TX RALEIGH LIMITED, Indianapolis, IN
FRANCO’S FINE CLOTHIER, RICHARDS, Greenwich, CT
Richmond, VA RODES FOR HIM & FOR HER,
GARMANY, Red Bank, NJ Louisville, KY
GARYS, Newport Beach, CA RON HERMAN, Los Angeles, CA;
Beverly Hills, CA; Brentwood, CA;
GENE HILLER, Sausalito, CA
Malibu, CA
GEORGE BASS, New Orleans, LA;
RUBENSTEINS, New Orleans, LA
Baton Rouge, LA
SAM CAVATO, St. Louis, MO
GEORGE GREENE, Chicago, IL
SAM MALOUF, Burlingame, CA
GODFRYS, Columbus, OH
SHAIA’S, Birmingham, AL
GORSUCH LTD., Vail, CO
SID MASHBURN, Atlanta, GA;
GREAT SCOTT LTD., Jackson, MS
Houston, TX
GUFFEY’S OF ATLANTA, Atlanta, GA
STANLEY KORSHAK, Dallas, TX
GUY LA FERRERA ITALIAN CLOTHING,
SYD JEROME, Chicago, IL
Boca Raton, FL
TAYLOR RICHARDS & CONGER,
HADLEIGH’S, Dallas, TX
Charlotte, NC
HUBERT WHITE, Minneapolis, MN
THE CLOTHERIE, Phoenix, AZ
JAMES DAVIS, Memphis, TN
THE MAN’S SHOP, Arlington, TX
JEFFREY NEW YORK, New York, NY
THE RED BARN, Rochester, NY
JOE BRAND, Laredo, TX; McAllen, TX
THE WEBSTER, Miami Beach, FL
JOHN CRAIG, Winter Park, FL;
UTAH WOOLEN MILLS, Salt Lake
Naples, FL
City, UT
KHAKI’S MEN CLOTHIER OF CARMEL,
WEISS & GOLDRING, Alexandria, LA
Carmel, CA
WILKES BASHFORD, San Francisco, CA
KILGORE TROUT, Cleveland, OH
LARRIMOR’S, Pittsburgh, PA
LAWRENCE COVELL, Denver, CO
LEVY’S, Nashville, TN
Fall /
Winter
Challenge
No. 1
HOW
TO
LAYER
The art and science
of piling on and
pulling off the sea-
son’s best tweeds,
leathers, silks, and
wools
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
PHIL POYNTER
D o u b l e - b re a s t e d wo o l c o a t ( $ 3, 280)
by D r i es Va n No t e n ; b a r n e y s .c o m.
Waxe d - c o t t o n j a c ke t ( $ 897 ) by
P a u l S t u a r t ; p a u l s t u a r t .c o m . Wo o l
sweater ($508) by James Purdey
& S ons ; p u rd e y.c o m. C o t t o n s h i r t
($295) by Ravaz zolo; ravaz zolo.
com. Tweed breeches ($600) by
H ol l and & H o l l a n d ; h o l l a n d a n d h o l -
land.com. Le ather boots ($350) by
A l l en Ed m o n d s ; a l l e n e d mo n d s .c o m.
C as hm e re - a n d - s i l k s c a r f ( $ 19 0 ) by
C or nel i a n i ; c o r n e l i a n i .c o m. Wo o l
s o c ks ( $ 1 1 0 ) by B e re t t a ; 2 1 2-319-
3235. Le ather shotgun slip ($795)
by C ro o t s ; c ro o t s e n g l a n d .c o.u k .
Pa ge E s q uire’s
116 Big Black B o ok
START AT
THE SKIN
Layers work together to keep you warm by
wicking moisture, trapping body heat, insulating
from cold, and blocking wind, rain, and/or snow.
Start with your base layer: Snug-fitting and
closest to your skin, the base collects the most
sweat, so you want it to keep you warm and dry
by pulling moisture away from your skin.
Go with natural materials (ideally silk)
over synthetic—they typically don’t
smell, and they often insulate better.
Vi n t a g e j a c ke t by B a r b o -
u r; b arbo u r.co m . Th ree-
b u tton ca s h mere ja cket
($6,520), cashmere cardi-
g an ($1,580), a n d co t t o n
sh i r t ($6 2 0 ) by C es a re At-
t o l i n i ; c e s a re a t t o l i n i .c o m .
C o t t o n - b l e n d j e a n s ( $ 33 5 )
by I n c o t ex ; m r p o r t e r.c o m .
B oo ts ($16 5) by H u n t er;
u s. h un t erbo o t s .co m .
C ashmere h a t ($4 65) by
SuperDuper Hats; super-
d u p erh a t s .co m . Wo o l-
and-yak scar f ($247 ) by
Paul Stuart; paulstuart
.c o m . Wo o l s o cks ($110 )
by B e re t t a ; 2 1 2-319-3 2 3 5.
Twe nt y-ga u ge over-
a n d - un der s h o t gu n w it h
scroll engraving by Greg
Go o dw illie (price u po n
re q u e s t ) by J a m e s P u rd e y
& Sons; purdey.com or
g r i f f i n h owe.co m .
BUILD THROUGH CONTRAST
Once you extend beyond the base layer, you need to think both aesthetically and functionally. For the
former, make sure there’s enough visual distinction among the various textures, patterns, and colors on
your person; for the latter, pick a midlayer to go over your base that captures body heat and traps warm
air. You’ll also want to make sure it’s breathable, to help with temperature and moisture regulation.
D o u b l e - b re a s t e d wo o l c o a t
($1,540) by MP Massimo Piom-
bo; 64 6-837-7750. Two-button
woo l ja cket ($1,095) by Luigi
Bianchi Mantova; 310-888-
1 899. M o h a i r- a n d - s i l k swe a t e r
($560) by Dunhill; dunhill.
c o m . C o t t o n s h i r t ( $ 3 6 5 ) by
H a m i l t o n ; h a m i l t o n s h i r t s .c o m /
b e sp o ke. Silk t ie ($2 2 5) by
I sai a; is a ia .co m . C o t t o n -ble nd
trousers ($189) by Hudson
J e a n s ; h u d s o n j e a n s .c o m .
S te e l-a n d-s a pph ire A irBoss
M ac h 9 a u t o m a t ic ch ro no-
graph ($2,195) by Victorinox;
swissarmy.com. Twelve-gauge
486 Parallelo by Marc Newson
sh otg u n w it h A s ia n -in s pire d
engraving ($24,995) by
B e re t t a ; b e re t t a .c o m .
Fa ll
2015
PROTECT
YOUR
NECK
Wool works; silk does, too.
Single-breasted wool coat
($4,195), two-button wool
jacket ($3,895), and wool
trousers ($1,100) by Er-
menegildo Zegna Couture;
zegna.com. Cashmere
sweater ($1,200) by the
Elder Statesman; elder-
statesman.com. Steel Car-
rera 43mm watch ($4,800)
by TAG Heuer; us.tagheuer
.com. Silk scarf ($450)
by Holland & Holland;
hollandandholland.com.
Cashmere hat ($465)
by SuperDuper Hats;
superduperhats.com. Wool
socks ($110) by Beretta;
212-319-3235.
Double-breasted wool
coat ($2,095), wool jacket
($2,045), and cotton shirt
($325) by Boglioli; boglioli
.it. Gunmetal Runwell Con-
trast chronograph ($825) by
Shinola; shinola.com. From
top: Wool-and-silk pocket
square ($70) by Paul Stuart;
paulstuart.com. Wool
pocket square ($165) by
Brunello Cucinelli; brunel-
locucinelli.com. Twelve-
gauge 486 Parallelo by Marc
Newson shotgun ($24,995)
by Beretta; beretta.com.
Fa ll
2015
This page: Lambskin shearling
coat ( $ 3,9 0 0 ) by J e f f re y Rü d e s ;
j effre y r u d e s .c o m. Two - b u t t o n
wool jacket ($1,9 50) by C aruso;
64 6-757-3041. Cotton sel-
v a g e s h i r t ( $ 2 9 0 ) by O f f i c i n e
G e n e ra l e ; byg e o rg e a u s t i n .c o m .
D e n i m j e a n s ( $ 26 5 ) by M a x we l l
S n ow; o p e n i n g c e re mo ny.u s .
S t e e l Ta mb o u r X L a u t o ma t i c
chronograph ($13,800) by Louis
Vuitton; louisvuitton.com. Silk
s c a r f ( $ 1 3 5) by M P M a s s i mo
Piombo; 64 6-837-7750.
O p p o s i t e : D o u b l e - b re a s t e d
wool-and-silk coat ($4,500),
t wo-b u t t o n wo o l s u i t ( $ 3,99 5) ,
a n d c o t t o n s h i r t ( $4 50 ) by I s a i a ;
i s ai a .c o m. C o t t o n ve l ve t ve s t
($47 5) by B o g l i o l i ; b o g l i o l i . i t .
Wool f l a n n e l t i e ( $ 1 0 5) by Fre e -
m a n s S p o r t i n g C l u b ; f re e m a n s -
s p o r t i n g c l u b.c o m . B o o t s ( $ 1 55 )
by H u n t e r; u s . h u n t e r b o o t s .c o m.
S t e e l Fre e l a n c e r a u t o ma t i c
chronograph ($2,9 50) by Ray-
m o n d We i l ; b l o o m i n g d a l e s .c o m .
Fe l t e d c a s h me re h a t ( $947 )
by K i t o n ; k i t o n . i t . Wo o l s o c ks
( $ 1 1 0 ) by B e re t t a ; 2 1 2-319-3 2 3 5.
Twe n t y- g a u g e s h o t g u n w i t h
rose-and-scroll engraving by
G reg G o o d w i l l i e ( p r i c e u p o n re -
q u e s t ) by J a m e s P u rd e y & S o n s ;
purdey.com or griffinhowe.com.
EMBRACE
FREEDOM,
AV O I D
STRUCTURE
Layering is all about harmony,
with each garment molding to
the others. That’s why, when
adding rich, tailored pieces to
the equation, it’s best to avoid
anything with too much structure
to it. Deconstructed jackets and
vests will conform that much more
easily to whatever else you’re
wearing.
Fa ll
2015
THE
INSULATION
L AY E R
Otherwise known as the
third layer on top of the
base and midlayer; it keeps
you warm in extreme cold
by shielding you from
outside air like a layer of
blubber. If the weather is
dry, you can stop at the
insulation layer. If there’s
potential for rain or snow,
keep layering.
D o u b l e - b re a s t e d
wo o l - a n d - a l p a c a c o a t
( $ 2,19 5) by E i d o s Na p o l i ;
g e n t r y nyc.c o m . B u l l h i d e -
l e a t h e r ve s t ( $ 1,40 0 ) by
Maxwell Snow; theweb-
s t e r mi a mi .c o m. C a s h -
mere thermal henley
($695) and cotton flannel
s h i r t ( $ 3 50 ) by E i d o s
Napoli; bloomingdales.
c o m. C o t t o n - t w i l l c h i n o s
( $ 2 9 5) by E i d o s Na p o l i ;
nomanwalksalone.com.
Twelve-gauge 486 Paral-
l e l o s h o t g u n w i t h s c ro l l
engraving ($5,3 50) by
B e re t t a ; b e re t t a .c o m .
Le ather trench coat ($6,000) by
Salvatore Ferragamo; 866-337-
7 24 2. Wo o l s a fa r i j a c ke t (st a r t i n g
a t $ 1,78 5 fo r cu s t o m ma de) by
A sc ot C h a n g; a s co t ch a ng.c om.
Wo o l ve s t ($1,50 0 ) by C ifone lli;
c i fon elli.co m . Silk-kn it tie ( $85 )
by Polo Ra lph L a u ren ; ralphlau-
re n .c o m . C o t t o n s h i r t ( $ 567 ) by
E tro; et ro.co m . C o t t o n corduroy
trousers ($325) by Massimo
Alba; barneys.com. C ashmere
scar f ($275) by Rag & Bone; rag-
bone.com. Wool-and-silk pocket
s q u a re ( $ 80 ) by P h i n e a s C o l e ;
p a u l s t u a r t .c o m .
Fa ll
2015
S i n g l e - b re a s t e d a l p a c a
coat ($4,095) and
t h re e - b u t t o n wo o l j a c ke t
( $ 1,59 5 ) by B e l ve s t ; 2 1 2-
317- 04 60. Cotton tuxedo
s h i r t ( $ 59 5 ) a n d c a l fs k i n
trousers ($1,600) by
Maxwell Snow; theweb-
s t e r mi a mi .c o m. C a l fs k i n
boots ($6,840) by John
Lobb; 011-44-20-7930-
3664. Fu r- felt fedora
hat ($360) by Alexander
O l c h ; 3 2 3 - 651 -41 2 9. Li n e n
scar f ($205) by Boglioli;
boglioli.it.
THE OUTER
LIMIT
Otherwise known as the
shell. It’s not only warm
but protects the rest of
what you’re wearing from
getting soaked by rain
or snow. A softer shell in
wool, cotton, or leather is
more breathable and easier
to move in than harder
synthetic alternatives,
and it’s usually a whole lot
more versatile, too.
D o u b l e - b re a s t e d
c ash mere-a n d-s ilk co a t
($ 1 0,9 15), t h ree-bu t t o n
c ash mere-a n d-s ilk ja cke t
($9,940), a n d co t t o n -
and-cashmere trousers
($1,1 20) by Kiton; kiton.
i t . L a m b’s -wo o l t u r t l e -
n e c k ($24 8) by t h e M en’s
S to re a t Blo o min gda le’s ;
b l o o m i n g d a l e s .c o m . C a l f-
skin double-monkstrap
sh oe s ($63 5) by C h u rch’s;
c h u rc h - fo o t we a r.c o m .
Le ather glove s ($375) by
Paul & Shark; paulshark.
i t. Le a t h er belt ($470 )
by E rm en egildo Zegn a
Couture; zegna.com. Wool
s o c ks ( $ 3 5 ) by B re s c i a n i ;
b re s c i a n i . i t . Twe l ve -
gauge 486 Parallelo by
Marc Newson shotgun
( $ 24,99 5 ) by B e re t t a ;
b e re t t a .c o m . Le a t h e r b a n -
dolier ($250) by Croots;
c ro o t s en gla n d.co.u k.co m.
Fa ll
2015
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y J O E M C K E N D R Y. S E T D E S I G N B Y D A N I E L G R A F F F O R M A R Y H O WA R D S T U D I O . G R O O M I N G B Y L I S A - R A Q U E L F O R S E E M A N A G E M E N T. P R O D U C E D B Y M I C H E L L E P I A Z Z A
ABOUT THE
GUN ON
PAGE 118
We spoke with Franco Beretta, the head of his family’s
legendary 490-year-old firearms company, about one of the
guns featured in this story
Thank you for loaning us Beretta’s the 911, so rather than forget what level gun, we dedicate so much ef-
486 Parallelo shotgun. they’ve already done, which would be fort to making the best quality barrel.
You’re most welcome. It’s the per- a big mistake, they have to keep think- Even in the 1500s, my ancestors con-
fect product to represent Beretta now- ing of ways to modernize it. Same for centrated on barrels, because they
adays, because it’s a modern gun, Rolex. When you have a great product were and are so important to how a
with all the modern technical features like the Submariner, you want to con- gun fires and performs. Today, we
for accuracy and safety, but it’s al- tinue to make it new because the mar- still consider the barrel the most im-
so a side-by-side shotgun, which ev- ket always demands something new, portant part of all our guns, and we
erybody knows is the most traditional but you also need to respect its past. don’t accept compromise.
shotgun in our industry. It’s a combina-
tion of both yesterday and today, and Some guns are mass-produced, of And does all of that add up to greater
how we bring tradition and technology course, and some guns can be con- accuracy and safety in the gun?
together in the Parallelo is what makes sidered true luxury goods. What’s the Fitting the gun to a shooter can make
it unique and so challenging to create. biggest difference between the two? a big difference, and the trigger
We offer a high level of customization mechanism is very important, too.
Challenging how? in the kinds of wood we use, the en- We manufacture very sophisticated
Beretta was founded in the 1500s, and gravings, and the fits, and that is re- trigger mechanisms that, for some-
we always look to our past, but we can ally what makes the difference be- body who is not a sophisticated hunt-
never copy it—we simply have to redo tween industrial guns and so-called er or a professional shooter, proba-
it with modern technology, and that premium guns. At the top level, you bly doesn’t make any difference. But
FO R S E R L I N AS S O C I AT E S.
is what’s challenging. I am passionate can have everything customized, and for somebody who is a sophisticat-
about cars and watches, so I some- we are able to make a shotgun ex- ed hunter, we are able to adjust the
times compare what we do to the actly for your dimensions and your trigger mechanism for him, and that
Porsche 911 and the Rolex Submariner. tastes. Also, for Beretta, no matter if can make the difference between him
Porsche has a legendary model with it’s an entry-level gun or a top- winning a competition or not.
Maintenance
FOR THE PROTECTION
THE AND/OR ENHANCE-
INFORMATION MENT OF ONE’S
PERSON AND/OR
POSSESSIONS
The Endorsement:
Suede chukka
SHOE
PROTECTIO
N, THE LUG-SOLE
UPGRADE
boots ($425) by Grenson;
grenson.co.uk.
RANKED
IN 1935, AN ITALIAN mountain climber
named Vitale Bramani led an expedition to
ADVISABLE the Italian Alps during which no fewer than
six of his friends died. A tragedy, to be
certain, but on the upside, it led to his de-
veloping boots with a newfangled sole with
tanklike traction. These were the first lug
soles, and they quickly became the stan-
dard for alpine climbers. Lug soles gained
popularity with the common man because
the incisions on the sole were deep enough
Snow cleats: to grip the ground during muddy outdoor
They protect your soles activities but weren’t so deep that the boots
E and have tiny metal
TH !T would pick up tons of debris. Today you can
H -SH grips or studs that
O IDE
GU basically work like
TO snow chains. Leather
boots ($220) by Jack
Erwin; jackerwin.com.
Steel Microspikes
Shoe Care
cleats ($70) by Kah-
toola; kahtoola.com.
A: Your shoes get white ring of leftover salt around

soaked in a rain or the toe. Or simply make your
snowstorm: own: Soak a clean cloth in equal
You have already treated your parts water and white vinegar,
suede, nubuck, or rough-leather then dab at the line; rinse with a Overshoes:
Condoms, basically, The thick incisions
shoes with a spray water repel- cloth dipped in plain water, then for your shoes. Calfskin and crosslike formations
lent (see page 130) within the dab with a dry cloth. shoes ($2,205) by John on the sole are meant
last few months, right? If not, do Lobb; johnlobb.com. to increase grip.
it now for all your shoes to help C: Your leather sole Rubber overshoes
($225) by John Lobb X
protect them from the occasional starts to separate after Swims; johnlobb.com.
splash—though keep in mind this repeated exposure Quiz
doesn’t make them waterproof. to dampness:
If they get fully soaked, never If you’ve got holes in your soles Match the Footprint
or separation, don’t give up an
dry leather shoes with a hair
dryer or place them near a heat otherwise perfectly broken-in to Its Owner!
vent or radiator—the heat can pair of shoes: Send them off for
Mountain lion L. L. Bean boot Deer
dry them out too quickly, making refurbishment and consider
the leather brittle. Instead, use replacing with lug soles (see Red Wing boot Yeti
a cedar shoe tree or stuff them top right). You might also check
with newspapers and be patient. whether the shoemaker offers A B C D E
When they’re no longer damp, in-house services: For $125,
apply a leather conditioner (see Allen Edmonds will replace the Plastic
page 130) to replace the natural entire outsole, the foot bed, bags over your
and the strip, and refinish the shoes:
oils lost, then spray them with Because one’s dignity
weatherproofing spray. leather upper. is far more valuable
than one’s soles.
B: Your shoes develop D: Your leather upper
salt stains: cracks:
Use a desalting solution (see Toss ’em. Once the leather is DEER, A; RED WING BOOT, B; YETI, E.
page 130), which gets rid of that cracked, the shoes can’t be saved. INADVISABLE ANSWERS: MOUNTAIN LION, C; L. L. BEAN BOOT, D;
THE INFORMATION
E
TH !T F R EQ U E N T LY AS K E D Q U E ST I O N S
-SH
OH IDE
GU
TO
SPECIAL DOWN-
JACKET EDITION
Q: WHAT SHOULD I DO IF THE HARD
TIP OF A DOWN FEATHER IS POKING
OUT OF THE FABRIC?
Camel-hair over-
A: Don’t pull it out: The full width of the
coat ($1,995) by
Polo Ralph Lauren; A: Your wool overcoat feather will create a larger, more perma-
ralphlauren.com. comes out of storage all nent hole in the fabric, where more down
will continue to sneak out. Try to wiggle
dusty and dank:
it back into the jacket by grabbing the
Use a suit brush to remove dust from the
feather from the inside of the garment. If a
shoulders, where it collects, and get it
feather is already too far out to get it back
to your dry cleaner, pronto. Next time,
in, snip off the end with nail clippers and
hang the coat in a garment bag for the pull the rest in using the technique above.
off-season to help keep off lint, hair, dust.
Q: WHAT IF MY JACKET GETS SOAKED?
B: The bottom hem picks A: Tumble-dry on low heat to fluff it up.
up salt stains: Throw a tennis ball in the dryer to help dis-
First, let the coat dry totally, then brush perse the down evenly through the jacket.
off the white salt marks lightly with an
old toothbrush. If that doesn’t work, dab Q: THE DOWN IS BUNCHING UP. UH,
the marks with a cloth mixed in a solu- HELP??
tion of a tablespoon of white vinegar in A: Run it through the washing machine,
a quart of water, then dab again with a then use your hands to shift the down
dry cloth. around as the garment dries. Then put it in
the dryer for a few minutes (with a tennis
C: It gets soaked: ball) and rearrange it by hand again.
So it doesn’t lose its shape, hang it in
the shower until it’s dry before putting Q: WHAT IF I RIP MY JACKET AND
it back in the closet, making sure the DOWN STARTS COMING OUT?
shoulders lie evenly across the hanger. A: The loss of a few clusters won’t make a
significant difference, since the remaining
D: A pocket blows out: down will expand to fill the space. Repair-
Pocket linings are easy enough for a tai- ing the hole is trickier, and if fabric-repair
lor to repair, but if you purchased your tape or a glue patch doesn’t work, you’re
overcoat at a store with an in-house tai- due for a new jacket.
lor, it should repair them for free.
Nikwax Moneysworth Allen Nikwax Scrusher Hunter Aqua Seal Musher’s

Down Wash & Best Edmonds TX.Direct Boot Cleaner Rubber is the best way to Secret Wax
Direct Salt Stain Premium Wash-In Brush Buffer protect your protects your dog’s
is ideal for safely Remover Leather restores water has soft bristles removes the white, leather shoes paw pads from ice
cleaning down repellency to that easily get chalky marks from mud, water, chunks and rock
gets that white ring Conditioner and rock salt ($7;
jackets off leather, suede, revives and outerwear that’s snow and rock salt from your rain or salt, and is a lot less
($10; rei.com). nubuck, or canvas started to get rain- out of your boot snow boots ($12; aquaseal.com). mortifying than
smooths dried-out
shoes ($11; ama- leather soaked ($13; treads before you nordstrom.com). booties ($18;
zon.com). ($15; allen- rei.com). step inside ($33; amazon.com).
edmonds.com). scrusher.com).
Page E s q uire’s
MAINTENANCE
THE EXTRA 10%:
GLOVES WITH
THE TOUCH
OPTION TWO: Gloves
that can be made touch-
screen friendly with a
gel called AnyGlove
($14.95; anyglove.com).
Downside: DIY.
Brunello Cucinelli;
brunellocucinelli.com.
OPTION ONE: Gloves

that come with textured
pads on the fingertips. Cashmere sweaters
Upside: Fingertips ($198) by the Men’s Store at
are always warm. work best with bare Bloomingdale’s;
Downside: Touch screens fingertips. bloomingdales.com.
don’t always recognize Downside: Cold
the pads. fingertips.
Insulator gloves ($65) by Cashmere fingerless
burton; burton.com. gloves ($350) by Bottega G U ID
Veneta. E
TO
Protection
A: You spill hot push gently outward to coax the
chocolate on it: errant yarn back into place. It that
Dab club soda on the spill right doesn’t work, it can likely be fixed
away before the stain can set. Nine by a tailor. Better yet, if the store
times out of ten, this works to dilute where you purchased the sweater
the staining agent until it’s barely has a tailor shop, it can usually fix
visible; if not, off to the dry cleaner. it for free. A hole is a different sto-
ry, though; you’ll need a reweaver.
B: It starts pilling:
Use the Sweater Stone ($9; E: It’s not as soft and fluffy
sweaterstone.com), an all-natural anymore:
THE PROBLEM pumice-like square you run If it’s cashmere, stick it, while it’s
over the pills and balls to gently already dry, in the dryer on low
Turtleneck Erectile remove them. heat for about 15 minutes to fluff

it up.
I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY P E T E R O U M A N S K I
C: There’s a loose
Dysfunction thread:
Do not pull it; instead, snip it at
F: It’s only for
occasional wear:
What’s to be done about a turtleneck that is no its base . Between wearings, store it folded
longer snug? A BBB investigation. in a breathable storage box or in a
D: It gets caught while cotton or canvas bag, then air it out
Know how you never put sweaters through the washer and dryer carrying firewood: for a day before you want to wear
because they can shrink down to Chihuahua size? Use that If it has just a small snag, apply it. Never hang a sweater: That can
principle to resize a stretched-out turtleneck. Wet the neck only and throw your thumbs to either side of it and stretch it out.
the sweater in the dryer on high heat until it’s totally dry;
keep in mind how much tighter you need it, since the wetter the neck, T H A N KS TO E R I C J E N N I N G S, V I C E- P R E S I D E N T A N D FAS H I O N D I R ECTO R
the more it will shrink in the dryer. O F M E N ’S W E A R AT SA KS F I F T H AV E N U E .
Fa ll
2015
THE INFORMATION: MAINTENANCE
E
TH !T
-SH
THE
OH IDE
GU FACESAVERS
TO
THE
PRE-WINTER
CHECKLIST
How to make sure you’re ready
when things start to cool down
THE NEOPRENE Go through existing sweaters. Purge
COVER the ones with egregious holes and
Advantage: Impervious bad stains. Dry-clean the wrinkled,
to the wind.
Disadvantage: Can be worn-in rest.
tricky to get the breath-
ing down Take out boots. Clean, condition.
right. Neofleece face
mask ($23) by Try on coats and jackets. Still fit?
Seirus; seirus.com.
Any missing buttons or ripped lin-
DRYNESS SUNBURN ings? Proceed accordingly.
How to prevent: Use a How to prevent: Yes, you can Wool socks: Try on. Discard any with
hydrator to add water to your still get a burn when it’s cold, holes or tears and replace.
skin; this is a good way to especially if you’re near snow
prevent tight, flaky skin, even if or at high altitude, so keep Hats, gloves, scarf: Locate them.
yours is normally oily. reapplying a matte-finish Assess them. And keep them handy
Try: Eve Lom Intense Hydration sunscreen with SPF 30+. when you need them.
Serum ($82; amazon.com). Try: Jan Marini Antioxidant THE WOOL Remember, when things get really
How to treat: Go heavy-duty Daily Face Protectant SPF 33 BALACLAVA cold and you don’t think you
with a hybrid oil-serum, which ($49; janmarini.com). Advantage: Total
can take it anymore: Spring is right
adds lots of moisture. How to treat: Once skin is coverage.
Disadvantage: “Did you around the corner.
Try: Caudalie Premier Cru the sunburned, you want to enhance just rob a bank?”
Elixir ($99; us.caudalie.com). its repair mechanisms. Wool-blend face mask
Try: Caudalie Vinoperfect ($30) by Chaos;
chaoshats.com.
Radiance Serum
($79; us.caudalie.com).
THE
PRE-SUMMER
THE SCARF
CHECKLIST
Advantage: Keeps How to make sure you’re ready
the wind out, when things start to heat up
looks great.
Disadvantage: Tricky Store your existing sweaters. But not
when it’s windy. before purging the ones with unfix-
Cashmere-and-silk
able holes and/or stains and dry
WINDBURN CHAPPED LIPS scarf ($180) by Corne-
liani; corneliani.com. cleaning the wrinkled, worn-in rest.
How to prevent: Moisturizers How to prevent: Skip waxy lip
form a shield over the skin’s balms—they don’t moisturize lips Put away boots. But not before
surface to protect it from the as well as serum balms. cleaning and conditioning.
elements and lock in moisture. Try: 3Lab Perfect Lips SO YOU’VE GOT
Try: 3Lab “M” Cream ($45; amazon.com). HAT HAIR Hang up your coats and jackets.
($280; dermstore.com). How to treat: A rich, But not before assessing and repair-
To minimize whatever
How to treat: Windburned skin nonsticky ointment will give you hair catastrophe awaits ing any damage.
you when you remove
is inflamed, and rich creams the quickest relief. your winter hat, Put away your hats, gloves, and
designed for stressed skin are the Try: Aquaphor Healing Ointment Esquire grooming scarf. And tell your wife where
best way to calm it down. (various prices, sizes; guru Rodney Cutler
you put them. Because you will
recommends stocking
Try: Natura Bissé Diamond amazon.com). probably forget.
up on hair products
Extreme Cream with some weight to
($345; naturabisse.com). them. Pomades or gels Remember, when it starts to heat up
are your best bet for and things get uncomfortable:
exerting some control.
T H A N KS TO D R. N O Ë L L E S H E R B E R, A D E R M ATO LO G I ST AT Winter is right around the corner.
S H E R B E R + R A D I N WAS H I N GTO N , D. C.
Fall /
Winter
Challenge
No. 2
HOW
TO
DRESS
UP
For all the virtues
of volume and bulk,
a close-fitting coat
and a streamlined
suit could very well
be the warmest
everyday items in a
man’s office arsenal.
Provided they’re
the right ones.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
CHRISTOPHER GRIFFITH
This page: Single-breasted
wool coat ($3,075), two-
button wool-and-silk suit
($2,975), stretch-cotton
shirt ($475), and silk tie
($245) by Giorgio Armani;
armani.com. Calfskin
double-monk-strap shoes
($980) by Santoni; san-
THE HARD
tonishoes.com. Opposite,
left: Double-breasted
wool coat ($2,650), wool-
LINE ON
and-mohair suit ($2,650),
silk-and-cotton shirt
($430), and silk tie ($150)
by Dunhill; dunhill.com.
Calfskin shoes ($725) by
Church’s; church-foot-
wear.com.
ST R E A M L I N E D
C OATS
Page E s q uire’s
Right: Double-breasted
wool-blend peacoat
($1,095), wool-blend
suit ($1,145), and silk
tie ($135) by Boss;
hugoboss.com. Cotton
shirt ($335) by Turnbull
& Asser; turnbulland-
asser.com. Calfskin boots
($1,045) by Santoni;
santonishoes.com.
There is no one length that’s right for everyone—it’s a matter of comfort and taste.
(We’re talking about coats here, folks. Coats.) There is also no one style that suits all,
with a single-breasted knee-length coat proving just as versatile as a high-and-tight
double-breasted peacoat. However, there are two shades more versatile than any
others—navy blue and charcoal gray—and one fit that works best for most of our
everyday lives: a close one. A sharply cut overcoat typically traps body heat better
than a baggy one, and it’s usually a whole lot more flattering, too.
Fa ll
2015
THE
LIGHTENING
OF THE
WO O L S U I T
Of all the
sartorial
innovations of
21st-century life,
the best one for
suit wearers
has got to be the
gradual light-
ening of woven
wools. Thanks to
advances at tex-
tile mills, hearty
weaves that
used to clock
in at a beefy 14-
plus ounces now
weigh in at con-
siderably less
without losing
any of their in-
herent warmth.
Ask a tailor or
salesman for the
best wools or
wool blends he’s
got for 12 ounc-
es—a man wear-
ing a suit made
of such cloth will
Wool coat ($3,495),
still enjoy all the three-piece wool suit
comfort he needs ($3,445), cotton shirt

($395), wool-and-silk tie
for winter yet ($275), and leather shoes
($845) by Dolce & Gabbana;
without burden- dolcegabbana.it. Leather
gloves ($295) by Paul Smith;
some weight. paulsmith.co.uk.
Page E s q uire’s
Wool coat ($1,850) by
Paul & Shark; paulshark.it.
Wool-and-silk-blend suit
($2,595) by Canali; canali.
com. Cotton shirt ($345)
and leather gloves ($295)
by Paul Smith; paulsmith.
co.uk. Silk tie ($85) by
David Fin; davidfin.com.
Leather oxford shoes
($210) by Florsheim;
florsheim.com. Cotton
socks ($32) by Bresciani;
luxuryclothing.com.
Fa ll
2015
TRADITION?
C H EC K .
T EC H N O LO GY?
C H EC K .
This here coat features an old-school-looking soft wool shell
stuffed with down and finished off with next-gen, heat-trapping
thermotape. That there double-breasted trench coat is made of
cloth that Allegri calls “techno-herringbone” and that combines
elements both all-natural (cotton) and man-made (polyester) for
a singularly modern effect. Both coats possess attributes both
traditional and technical, and both coats are better for it.
This page: Cotton-blend trench coat
($689) by Allegri; allegri.it. Two-
button wool suit ($3,500) by Dior;
diorhomme.com. Cotton shirt ($595)
by Louis Vuitton; louisvuitton.com.
Silk tie ($70) by Vince Camuto; vince-
camuto.com. Calfskin boots ($1,905)
by John Lobb; 212-888-9797. Leather
gloves ($495) by Ermenegildo Zegna;
zegna.com. Cotton-blend socks ($29)
by Pantherella; pantherella.com.
Opposite: Wool down parka ($2,295),
two-button wool-and-cashmere suit
($2,095), cotton shirt ($275), silk tie
($150), and calfskin boots ($995) by
Pal Zileri; palzileri.com.
Fa ll
2015
This page: Wool-and-
cashmere coat ($9,075),
three-button wool suit
($9,125), and silk tie ($230)
by Brioni; brioni.com.
Cotton shirt ($265) by
Hamilton; bloomingdales.
com. Calfskin double-
monk-strap shoes ($640)
by Fratelli Rossetti; fratel-
lirossetti.com. Opposite:
Reversible quilted parka
($4,150), two-button wool
suit ($3,450), cotton shirt
($595), calfskin derby
shoes ($995), and silk tie
($215) by Louis Vuitton;
louisvuitton.com.
Page E s q uire’s
THE
UNEXPECTED
PAIRING
There are days
when an ample wool
topcoat is a godsend,
and there are days
when the length and
weight of the thing
is just too much
to bear. For the
latter, make like a
well-dressed Italian
and pair a light
technical parka with
a suit. There are the
obvious functional
advantages
to wearing a
performance-driven
parka, but there’s
also the appealing
contrast between
the sartorial and the
sporty. Just make
sure the parka is
long enough to cover
your suit jacket.
Fa ll
2015
ALWAYS HAVE
A PLAN B
It’s not simply because
variety is, in fact, the spice
of life, but because different
cuts and constructions,
particularly when it comes
to coats, can serve different
needs. A nylon trench (right)
for a rainy day? Definitely. A
big-lapelled, boldly textured
overcoat (left) when you
feel like making a big, bold
statement? Absolutely. Just
because you won’t wear
them every day doesn’t make
them any less necessary.
Page E s q uire’s
This page: Nylon raincoat
($1,640), double-breasted
wool jacket ($2,590),
cotton shirt ($610), wool
trousers ($830), and cot-
ton tie ($235) by Prada;
prada.com. Calfskin-and-
suede shoes ($1,745) by
John Lobb; johnlobb.com/
us. Deerskin gloves ($425)
by Dunhill; dunhill.com.
Opposite: Double-
breasted wool-blend
coat ($1,395), cotton suit
($1,395), and cotton-
poplin shirt ($350) by
Calvin Klein Collection;
calvinklein.com/collec-
tion. Cotton-and-silk tie
($150) by Sand Copenha-
gen; saks.com. Leather
shoes ($895) by O’Keeffe;
barneys.com. Umbrella
($350) by Davek Umbrel-
las; davekny.com.
Fa ll
2015
SO ABOUT
THIS HERE
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y J O E M C K E N D R Y. P R O D U C E D B Y R I E LY C L O U G H . G R O O M I N G B Y H E C T O R S I M A N C A S F O R C R O S B Y C A R T E R M A N A G E M E N T.
WIND
TUNNEL...
The Boeing Vertical/Short Takeoff and The tunnel’s drive system is four sto- walls that weigh a combined 24 tons—
Landing Wind Tunnel—Boeing’s larg- ries tall and almost 40 feet in diameter. is adjustable, allowing for testing of
est wind tunnel, the largest privately It runs on a 13,000-hp electric motor fixed-wing and rotary-wing aircraft
owned wind tunnel in the U. S., and that uses five megawatts of power. and helicopters, as well as nonaero-
the location for this photo shoot—has The test section of the tunnel is 20 by nautical vehicles and structures.
seen a lot since it was commissioned 20 feet, and that narrowing funnels Boeing also allows outside companies
in 1968. In the past 47 years, it has the 42 tons of air inside the closed and agencies such as NASA to rent
performed more than 82,000 hours of circuit and can accelerate it to as high the facility for testing. The wind tun-
testing, including on most of Boeing’s as 250 mph. Even though that sounds nel has even hosted testing for Nascar
major commercial airplanes, from the fast, the wind tunnel is considered a vehicles and for NFL quarterbacks
717 to the 787 Dreamliner. The wind low-speed facility; Boeing’s Transonic gauging how their passes wobble in
tunnel, located near Philadelphia, Wind Tunnel in Seattle, for instance, the wind.
has also been the site of many hours can generate wind above Mach 1, the Boeing has improved the wind tun-
of military testing, with scaled-down speed of sound. nel’s airflow, data quality, and produc-
models of the CH-47 Chinook helicop- The nine wooden blades in the tun- tivity multiple times since its com-
ter, the V-22 Osprey tiltrotor aircraft, nel fan drive are made of laminated missioning, and undertook a major
and the F-18 combat jet among those Sitka spruce, a type of wood chosen replacement of the original fan blades
having passed through these doors. for its high strength-to-weight ratio. In in 2012. In 2016, the company will cel-
Engineers and technicians use this fact, one pound of Sitka spruce is al- ebrate its centennial; the Boeing Verti-
facility—as they do all wind tunnels—to most as strong as a pound of steel, but cal/Short Takeoff and Landing Wind
test many different configurations of it has better acoustic properties. (Sitka Tunnel has played a vital role for nearly
an aircraft. By adjusting wind speeds spruce is also used to make guitars.) half of that time. For the next hundred
and angles of the test model, engi- An important asset of this test years, don’t expect it to slow down.
neers get an idea of how an aircraft facility is its flexibility. Most wind tun-
will react to real-world conditions, but nels test one type of aircraft, usually For inquiries regarding the use of this or any
without having to leave the confines of airplanes. But the Philadelphia wind other Boeing test facility, please contact Boeing
Technology Services, 206-544-2699 or boeing.
the wind tunnel. tunnel’s test section—despite steel com/bts.
Pa ge E s q uire’s Fa ll
THE
INFORMATION
Performance THE HOWS AND THE
WHYS OF THE MANY
WAYS THAT THINGS
WORK HARD FOR US
The Original Performers T H E I N V E ST I GAT I O N :
MEN IN
Cotton,Wool, FUR
Leather & Silk
Some men wear it better
than others
YES NO
COTTON WOOL LEATHER SILK

Washable, durable, Naturally water- Forms a barrier to It’s the warmest
easy to dye, rela- and wind-resistant the outside world, fiber per pound.
tively inexpensive, and generally thus preventing ele-
and extremely warmer than cot- ments from getting
versatile—it can ton. Ideal for damp in and body heat
be made into weather because from getting out.
Advantages everything from it absorbs and
lightweight lace to releases moisture
sturdy sailcloth. gradually, keeping
the wearer
comfortable. Barrymore, J. Mitchell, P. P.
Wrinkles and Unless it’s Can’t get Delicate and

Disadvantages shrinks easily. merino wool, can wet. expensive.
feel scratchy.
Performs
Well In . . . Wilde, O. Hudson, R.
JACKETS SWEATERS COATS LONG UNDERWEAR
Cotton jacket ($98) Wool-and-cash- Leather trench coat Silk undershirt
by Gap; gap.com. mere sweater ($8,400) by Sal- ($48) by L. L. Bean;
($1,595) by Pringle vatore Ferragamo; llbean.com.
of Scotland; pringle- 866-337-7242.
scotland.com.
THE ASSESSMENT: FUR

THE FURRY EXTERIORS OF MINK, fox, chinchilla, and sable work so well to keep us warm for the
same reason they kept their original owners warm: double insulation to keep the cold air out and the
Dalí, S. Stallone, S.
body-heat-warmed air in. There’s the visible layer, i.e., the outer fur, which is all about water resistance
so rain and snow can’t dampen the secondary layer, i.e., the fluffier, denser undercoat that actually
keeps animals warm. The insulating power of fur depends on the amount of body heat it traps, and that,
in turn, depends on the thickness of the hide and the density of the individual hairs in the undercoat
layer. (The thicker and denser the fur, the better it is at trapping heat.) Even the finest faux fur can’t
compete with real fur’s insulating powers, though we leave it to each man to work out the ethical issues
on his own time.)
“Where does discontent start? You are warm enough,

but you shiver.” —JOH N STE I NBECK
Duchamp, M. Liberace
Fal l E s q uire’s Pa ge
2015 Big Black B o ok 14 5
THE INFORMATION
and filament yarn make it smoother and stron-

ger than other nylons. Often found in: Luggage.
5. Nylon
Conceived in the 1930s as an affordable syn-
thetic to replace women’s silk stockings, the
nylon polymer was created at DuPont by com-
bining hexamethylenediamine and adipic acid,
then spinning the strands formed into plastic
thread. Often found in: Everything.
6. Microfiber
Japanese scientists started developing mi-
crofiber materials in the 1960s. The fibers are
made from a mix of polyester and polyure-
thane, and are about half the diameter of a
fine silk fiber—much thinner than a human
hair. Often found in: Sportswear.
7. Ultrasuede
In 1970, Japanese researchers created this ma-
terial from synthetic fibers so fine they can’t be
seen by the human eye; they’re also so light that
a 50-mile strand of them would weigh less than
a gram. A mix of polyester and polyurethane,
the material is meant to feel like suede but uses
no animal products. Often found in: Shoes, coats.
8. Aerogel
Eureka!
TEN OF THE GREATEST MAN-MADE MATERIALS
The lightest solid material known to man was
first made by NASA in the 1930s. It’s a silica
gel that can hold in lots of warm air without
transferring heat. Often found in: Jackets. (It
also insulated the Mars rover.)
9. 37.5
1. Fleece 3. Gore-Tex A fabric technology invented in the 2000s by
Invented by a Massachusetts textile maker In 1969, Bob Gore took PTFE (aka Teflon) and Cocona, Inc. to make use of the waste of co-
in the late 1970s in collaboration with a then- rapidly stretched it to make expanded poly- conut husks from the food-service industry,
unknown company called Patagonia. (For tetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE). This became which would otherwise go to a landfill. The
more, see page 148.) Often found in: Outerwear. Gore-Tex, a material membrane that reached manufacturer burns the coconut, and the acti-
I L LU ST R AT I O N BY P E T E R O U M A N S K I
the market in 1976. It contains more than vated charcoal fibers are embedded in yarn to
2. Kevlar 9 billion microscopic pores per square inch, increase the material’s surface area, thus cre-
Created by DuPont chemist Stephanie Kwolek each pore approximately 20,000 times smaller ating a moisture-wicking effect. Often found in:
in 1965 after she realized that paraphenylene than a drop of water but 700 times bigger than Outerwear, quick-drying performance clothing.
terephthalamide and polybenzamide formed a molecule of moisture vapor. Translation:
a nearly unbreakable fiber. It’s used as Rain can’t get in and sweat can get out. Often 10. Pertex Classic
a soldier’s go-to protection from bullets and found in: Outerwear. This polyamide (nylon) fabric was created by
explosive fragments. It’s also flame-resistant, a British climber named Hamish Hamilton in
five times stronger than steel, and surpris- 4. Ballistic nylon conjunction with Perseverance Mills in the
ingly lightweight. Often found in: Protective Originally used in World War II flak jackets to 1980s. Often found in: Sleeping bags and jack-
sportswear. protect airmen, ballistic nylon’s two-ply weave ets, to keep people dry and warm.
1900 B.C.
A HISTORY OF 4500 B.C. To stay
warm, Stone Age
hunters fashion
Clothing is
first made
PERFORMANCE fur pelts from
pine martens
from fleece
sheared from
CLOTHING (critters from the
otter family) and
sheep, i.e.,
wool.
Adam and Eve, with their fig leaves, even their own
were only the beginning of our quest domesticated
to make clothes work harder for us dogs.
Page E s q uire’s
PERFORMANCE
THE OVERLY SPECIFIC S P OT L I G H T O N :

EXPLANATION OF
WINDPROOFING THE HIGH-

There are two primary ways the fabrics that PERFORMANCE COAT
make up our favorite clothes can be rendered How does your coat measure up?
impervious to gusts, gales, and whatever else
is kicking up something fierce outside. The
fabric itself can be rendered windproof by
THE INVESTIGATION: Stretch-nylon Icon
jacket ($1,200) by
weaving the yarns so closely together that H OW D O
1 Spyder; spyder.com.
they don’t let air pass through. Or, in the case C LOT H E S A N D
AC C E SS O R I E S
of fabrics that aren’t woven densely enough, G E T T E ST E D ?
a windproof film or coating (usually poly-
The last thing you want
urethane) can be layered onto the cloth to
is to buy something
prevent the passage of air. 6 9
and have it tear, break,
or leak before its time.
Now companies are
going the distance
to make sure your 4 2
purchase will endure.
Victorinox, maker of the
Swiss Army Knife, sub-
mitted its Inox watches
5
to 130 tests, includ-
ing driving over them
with a 64-ton Swiss
tank. Rolex also obses-
sively tests its watches,
shock-testing them for
THE CLARIFICATION: an impact equivalent 3
A FEW WORDS ON to 5,000 g’s (hundreds

of times more forceful
“WATERPROOF”
than a car crash), as
well as opening and
8 7
closing the clasp tens
• First, there’s a difference between water-
proof (“impenetrable to water”) and water-
of thousands of times in
salt water. Eddie Bauer
tests its fabrics in a lab
resistant (“water shedding”). Few things are to check for water- and
actually waterproof—it’s more that they’re wind-resistance; only
the most success- 1 Adjustable hood that can loosen or tighten depending on weather.
impenetrable to water up to a certain pres-
ful are turned into
sure. (And beyond that pressure: wet.) Thus, 2 Nylon shell with DWR (durable water repellent) coating to enhance
prototype garments.
whatever you’re wearing is most likely water- Brands never miss a water resistance.
resistant. chance to promote the
results of these tests, 3 Water-resistant zippers, the borders of which have been taped to
• Some water-resistant garments are made
from scientifically engineered hydrophobic
so before purchasing
any performance item,
ask the salesperson
keep moisture out.
cloths, like nylon and polyester, which don’t about whether and how 4 PrimaLoft insulation.
absorb water or spread it through the fabric it’s been tested. If the
answer is “not sure” or 5 Ventilation system under the arms facilitates temperature regulation
the way natural materials like cotton do.
“no,” consider buying
and breathability.
something else.
• Some water-resistant garments are made
from natural cloths that have been rendered WITH THANKS TO
6 Microfiber-lined collar warms and goes easy on your face and neck.
CHARLIE BERG,
hydrophobic through either waterproof 7 Adjustable outer cuffs and interior stretch cuffs.
PRODUCT-LINE
coating (such as DWR, which causes water to MERCHANDISER, TECH
bead up on the outer layer rather than soak OUTERWEAR, EDDIE 8 Adjustable draw-cord waist.
through) or extremely tight weaves, which BAUER.
make water less likely to penetrate. 9 Recco avalanche-rescue system to signal help.
A.D. 1100 Europe- Early 1700s 1750 The wool

an soldiers use Underwear overcoat enters
protective armor doesn’t exist; the picture (and
that’s made of neither does there it stays).
interlocking iron elastic, so men
rings (chain mail) hold up their
or overlapping socks with rib-
scales of iron, bon or leather
bronze, or horn. garters.
Fa ll
2015
THE INFORMATION
THE HELL IS FLEECE,

ANYWAY?
Five key moments that made fleece the ubiquitous
winter performance material that it is today
1970
LATE 1970S
Malden Mills, a Mas-
1975
sachusetts textile maker
that specialized in fake
fur, flocked velvet, and 1981
materials for cheap motel Malden Mills collaborated
blankets, started working with Patagonia to
on a new fabric called create Synchilla (synthetic
Polarfleece. The Malden 1980 chinchilla), which
engineers wound super- debuted in Patagonia’s
fine polyester yarn with Snap-T pullover.
a special knit-and-loop
construction to create
the first fleece, which was
insulating and water wick-
ing. Then the fibers were 1985
brushed to add volume, so
the fabric felt fluffier with-
out adding any weight. LATE 1980S
Light, warm, and wind-
proof, fleece became
The Endorsement: ubiquitous—
THE WAXED-
1990 not just at outdoor outfit-
ters like Patagonia, Lands’
End, and L. L.Bean
COTTON COAT
but also at mainstream
chains like the Gap. All
fleece was made
MID-1990S of polyester (usually poly-
1995 ethylene terephthalate),
IT ALL STARTED, MORE OR LESS, with seamen. In the early 1800s, sailors Patagonia and its partners
started working on and its quality varied in
made waterproof smocks and capes from their ships’ linseed-oil-coated
creating recycled polyes- relation to its weight, from
sails only to find that the material yellowed over time and turned stiff when ter for fleece, but the first superlight micro- and
it was cold. As an alternative, companies started making paraffin-wax-im- iterations came out 100-level to midrange
pregnated cloths, and the resulting garments—breathable, durable, and feeling scratchy. Over the 200-level and up to thick
next decade, better 300-level.
highly water-resistant—became the gold standard in rain protection. En- 2000
versions, made from
ter Barbour, a British sportswear brand that introduced a waxed-cotton recycled water and soda
jumpsuit for motorcycle riders in the 1930s. During World War II, a British bottles, hit the market.
submarine commander, George Phillips, was so impressed by Barbour’s (It takes about 25
motorcycle suits that he asked the company to produce a two-piece bottles to make one fleece
garment.)
(jacket and pants) version—called the Ursula suit, after Phillips’s subma-
2005 2008
rine, the HMS Ursula—which became standard issue for submariners The fleece Snuggie, worn
throughout the war. The jacket in particular, with its snap closure and its for activities that are
ample bellows pockets, took hold in the popular imagination, and in the about as indoorsy as
following decades it became the preferred garment of hunters, motorcy- you can get, debuted
and sold 20 million
cle enthusiasts (like a certain Steve McQueen, here wearing the Interna- blankets-with-sleeves in
tional), and all-around outdoorsmen. Now using lighter cottons, everyone 2010 its first year.
from H&M to Belstaff makes a water-resistant, breathable waxed-cotton
jacket that holds up well in the wind and rain.
A HISTORY OF PERFORMANCE CLOTHING (CONT’D)
1823 Scottish 1873 Levi Strauss 1879 Thomas

chemist Charles starts making Burberry devel-
Macintosh patents blue jeans, with ops gabardine,
a method for mak- rivets at points a tightly woven,
ing water-resistant of strain to make water-repellent
garments with wool them last longer. cloth that’s made
and dissolved into coats used by
rubber, inventing British soldiers in
the mackintosh the Boer War.
coat.
Page E s q uire’s
PERFORMANCE
Polyurethane-and-
S P OT L I G H T O N : rubber boots ($160)
by Sorel; sorel.com.
Quiz
What Kind of Snow

Boots Do You Need?
1
2
1. How often and how you have to spend out-

6 much did it snow in your doors on any given
How does your winter neck of the woods last snow day?
footwear match up? winter? A 30 minutes or more (6)
A A lot and a lot. (Thanks B 15 to 29 minutes (4)
3 for reminding me.) (6) C 1 to 14 minutes (2)
5
B All the time, but only a little D Does answering the door for
4
at a time. (4) the pizza guy count? (1)
1 C Occasionally, but when it did,
it really snowed. (2) 4. What’s the most
D Once or twice. Dustings frustrating part of
2 The upper: wind- and water-resistant. mostly. (1) walking in the snow?
A When snow gets into my
3 The shell: water-resistant vulcanized rubber. 2. Your typical encounter boots. (6)
with snow last winter B When the cuffs of my pants
4 The sole: a “nonloading” tread means it won’t pick up or pack in
included . . . get all wet. (4)
snow or mud.
(check all that apply) C When I have to slush through
5 A frost plug: an unseen piece of felt, placed between the top of
A Shoveling the driveway so all the wet stuff. (2)
the outsole and the bottom of the inner sole, that deflects cold com- I could get my car out. (5) D When I slide all over the
ing up into the boot through the bottom. B Hiking up a trail. (5) place. (2)
C Making my way across
6 A washable felt inner boot that has a reflective lining to minimize snowdrifts and through deep 5. How much time is too
heat loss and maximize insulation. powder. (6) much time to spend put-
D Trying not to slip on shoveled ting on a pair of shoes?
streets and sidewalks. (2) A 15 seconds (2)
B 45 seconds (3)
WINTER SOCKS: SPECIFIC GUIDANCE 3. How much time would C However long it takes. (5)
Cashmere Wool or Cotton

You want it soft but not too soft. The best wool for socks is ANSWER KEY
Cashmere with a slightly rougher Australian merino wool;
hand (like some Scottish cash- the best cotton is mercerized
mere) is typically better quality
and will likely last much longer
cotton, which will absorb
all the sweat and keep your
1 to 9: 10 to 19: 20 plus:
than softer varieties. skin dry. Leather-and-rubber Nubuck-leather-and- Rubber boots
duck boots ($198) rubber boots ($150) by ($150) by Hunter;
by Brooks Brothers; Sorel; sorel.com. us.hunterboots.com.
brooksbrothers.com.
Cashmere-Nylon Cashmere-Silk
Of all the yarns cashmere For a refined sock with
can be partnered smoothness and
with, nylon offers the a little shine, it’s hard to
most durability. beat cashmere and silk.
W I T H T H A N KS TO M ASS I M I L I A N O B R E S C I A N I O F
LUXU RY S O C K M A K E R B R E S C I A N I .
1905 UK-based 1914 to 1918 World Early 1920s Zip-

Courtalds begins War I means major pers debut on B. F.
producing rayon jacket innovations: Goodrich rubber
as a cheaper Fighter pilots stay boots, replacing the
commercial alter- warm with long leath- 20 to 30 buttons
native to silk. er jackets, and Bur- previously used
berry and Aquascu- to fasten a typical
tum supply water- boot. They’re so
resistant coats to sol- named for the noise
diers in the trenches. they make.
Fa ll
2015
THE INFORMATION
How Many T H E OV E R LY
S P EC I F I C
Layers Do
E X P L A N AT I O N O F
MOISTURE
WICKING
You Need?
Sweat cools your body
when it evaporates
from the surface of
your skin. But some-
times the volume of
sweat you produce is
too great for all of it to
disperse. Instead, the
watery excretion gets
soaked up in an article
of clothing, which gets
damp as it slurps up
the excess moisture.
Performance apparel
solves that problem by
“wicking” sweat away
from your body, just
like the wick of an oil
lamp absorbs liquid
and draws it upward.
The best moisture- A GUIDE TO BUYING
LONG JOHNS
wicking cloths pull
perspiration away
Two from the skin and push
For temperatures 40 and above. A vest-sweater-T-shirt combo can it through the cloth-
Lamb’s-wool turtleneck ($248) by the hedge against a dip into the 30’s. ing’s surface, where What you want depends on
Men’s Store at Bloomingdale’s; Nylon-and-cotton down vest it evaporates. The how you fare with layers
bloomingdales.com. Cotton T-shirt ($23) ($295) by Aether Apparel; aetherappar- result: a comfortable,
by Gap; gap.com. dry body.
el.com. Merino-mohair-blend sweat- You Sweat a Lot
er ($220) by Club Monaco; clubmonaco.
com. Cotton T-shirt ($80) by Rag & Bone;
Pay close attention to the ability of your
rag-bone.com. long johns to wick away sweat from the
THE UNINTENDED skin so it can quickly evaporate. Silk and
C O N S EQ U E N C E :
synthetic materials (i.e., polyester and
OVER- polyester blends) tend to offer moisture
HEATING quick passage to the outside world without
absorbing too much of it; wool tends to
When your body heat
can’t escape and sweat absorb the sweat before slowly releasing
can’t evaporate to it through evaporation, thus adding to the
cool you, you’re going weight of the garment.
to get too warm. To
prevent this, look for
breathable clothing You’re Really Cold (and
that facilitates moisture Then Really Hot, and Then
transfer and plan ahead
whenever possible. If Really Cold Again)
you’re going to exercise You’ll want a garment that adjusts to shifts
in cold weather, dress in temperature. Wool typically works the
Three Three Plus as though it were 20
best in both cooler and warmer environ-
degrees warmer than
A down jacket atop cardigan Pile on and pull off as needed. ments, and silk comes in a close second.
it actually is—you’ll be
and sweatshirt holds up in Nylon down vest ($860) by Moncler;
cold when you start out,
moncler.com. Wool jacket ($1,180) by
freezing temps. but once you get going,
Nylon down jacket ($1,095) by Paul &
Luigi Bianchi Mantova; 312-346-0333.
you’ll warm up to the
You Stink
Cotton-flannel shirt ($145) by Woolrich;
Shark; paulshark.it. Wool-and-angora car- woolrich.com. Cotton T-shirt (pack of
perfect temperature. If Wool is naturally antibacterial, and some
digan ($655) by Sunspel; sunspel.com. you start feeling over- but not all synthetic materials and silks are
three, $40) by Calvin Klein Underwear;
Cotton sweatshirt ($165) by Levi's Made heated, roll your gloves
& Crafted; nordstrom.com. Merino-wool
calvinklein.com.
up to expose your
treated to ward off microbes.
shirt ($90) by Icebreaker; icebreaker.com. palms to release heat.
A HISTORY OF PERFORMANCE CLOTHING (CONT’D)

Early 1930s Ameri- 1935 Wisconsin 1936 A man 1953 New-
can chemist Wallace hosiery company named Eddie fangled poly-
Carothers invents Coopers, Inc. Bauer almost ester and poly-
nylon, the first material sells the first dies of hypo- cotton blends
synthesized completely briefs, calling thermia, then lead to “wash-
from petrochemicals; them jockey invents the first and-wear,” i.e.,
it’s used for women’s shorts, since they goose-down no-need-to-iron
hosiery and in World were considered jacket. garments.
War II for parachutes, supportive, like a
ropes, and tents. jockstrap.
Page E s q uire’s
PERFORMANCE
THE MYTH OF THE
ALL-IMPORTANT HEAD
News flash: Your head isn’t that special. Yes, it’s more sensitive to changes in temperature than the rest of your body, meaning it
feels as though covering it up makes a big difference in preventing heat loss. But the truth is that covering any one part of your
body has as much effect on staying warm as covering any other. On a cold day, you lose less heat through a bare head than through
an exposed leg or arm, since both of those have more exposed surface area. So go ahead and wear your hat—you look great in it,
and we bet it keeps you warm. Just don’t skimp on the rest of your body.
N O G LOV E S?
HERE’S
WHAT
TO DO
There is a term, “set-
point temperature,”
to describe the core
temperature your
body works to main-
tain. When external
temperatures fall,
your body conserves
heat by slowing down
the blood flow to
the hands and feet, WHAT I’VE LEARNED
making them feel cold.
This can happen at
room temperature— Glove Maker Daniel Storto
FROM FROM BECAUSE so you can bet it hap- Storto has collaborated on gloves for Paul Smith, Dries Van
OF THE pens at 27 degrees.
CARS BOATS WE Noten, Alexander McQueen, and Thom Browne
MILITARY Should you find your-
WE GOT: TOOK: WE HAVE: self without gloves,
breathing warm,
> FOURTEEN YEARS AGO, I moved to Gloversville, New York, which used
Ray-Ban moist air onto your to be the glove-making capital of the world—it’s my Disneyland.
Leather driv- Boatneck
aviator hands doesn’t work; > MY WORK IS MOSTLY THIMBLE, needle, and thread. Every stitch, ev-
ing gloves sweaters it feels temporar-
sunglasses ery movement of my hand, is all there in the finished glove. It can take
ily warmer, but since
water conducts heat
me anywhere from three days to two years to make a pair. I like to take
Fisherman’s Sew-on jack-
Car coats
sweaters et patches better than dry air at my time because I enjoy the work—you know when you’re reading a
the same temperature, great book and you don’t want it to end, so you only let yourself read a
you’re actually pulling couple of pages a day?
Top Gun– warmth out of your
Driving Striped style flight > I’M PICKY ABOUT WHAT KIND OF LEATHER I want to work with and
hands. Instead, put

moccasins sweaters suits/jump- your hands against the use primarily lamb suede. It drapes well, it’s seductive, it caresses the
suits warm, dry skin on the hand—the feel of it on the skin is the best. I never make a glove that’s
side of your neck so tight-fitting. I prefer when the glove skims the hand and lightly touches
Bomber that the warm blood
Peacoats
jackets going through your
the skin. Some of my favorite gloves are exotic skins like alligator, py-
pulse point can help thon, or snakeskin on top of the hand, then lamb suede on the bottom,
Bell-bottom heat your hands. You for the best combination of rough and delicate.
sailor pants might also try balling > I ALSO DON’T LINE MY GLOVES, because it’s more pure. If I’m going
up your hands into
fists, since clustering
to wear leather, I want to feel leather against my skin.
Boat shoes
the fingers together > WHEN I LOOK AT A PIECE OF CLOTHING and can tell a human be-
helps maintain more ing made it, that’s a true luxury, because you’re paying for the time
WITH THANKS TO MARK-EVAN BLACKMAN, ASSISTANT
of your body heat. and the knowledge it takes. For more from Storto, visit danielstorto.
PROFESSOR IN THE MEN’S-WEAR DEPARTMENT AT
THE FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY. blogspot.com.
1976 Gore-Tex,
the first com-
mercial fabric
that’s breath-
able, waterproof,
first uses it on a and windproof,
goes on sale; is
used in 1980s
space suits.
nauts in space.
Fa ll
2015
THE INFORMATION: PERFORMANCE
THE BIG
SO YOU’VE
ONES BEEN
EPIC MOUNTAINS
AND THE MEN
TRAPPED IN
WHO GOT TO THE
TOP FIRST AN AVALANCHE
1. THE MATTERHORN What to keep handy when the
First ascent: Edward snow hits the fan
Whymper in 1865. Of
the original team of
seven, only Whymper
and two others sur-
vived the trek up and
down the mountain.
2. KILIMANJARO
First ascent: Hans
Meyer, Yoanas Kinyala
Lauwo, and Ludwig
Umbrellas
Purtscheller in 1889.
Meyer brought an
entourage of 15 (in-
cluding a cook) and
kept them in line by
lashing them.
What the best ones have that the others don’t
3. DENALI/
1. More ribs 5. Domed shape MOUNT MCKINLEY
Whereas average umbrellas have A deep canopy (the part that First ascent: Wal-
ter Harper, Harry
six or eight ribs, the best-per- covers you) is crucial to keeping Karstens, Robert AIR-BAG BACKPACK OR JACKET: Pull the
forming models have nine, mak- you dry, and a dome works better Tatum, and Hudson rip cord to inflate it the second the ava-
ing them less likely to be blown than a shallow, flatter canopy or a Stuck in 1913. The
lanche hits; it’ll help you stay close to the
men wore moccasins,
inside out. circus-tent-shaped one. heavy-duty sweaters, surface so you don’t get buried too deep.
moose-hide breeches,
2. Fewer folds in the ribs 6. Water-resistant and lynx-paw mitts. AVALUNG: If you get buried under snow,
The ribs are composed of three coating 4. EVEREST
breathing through the mouthpiece of this
segments in most folding umbrel- A Teflon-coated polyester canopy First ascent: Sir device allows you to breathe the residual
las; supersmall folding-umbrella fabric means water beads up, so Edmund Hillary and air around you for up to 58 minutes.
Tenzing Norgay in
ribs can require four or five seg- it won’t soak through. It also lets
1953. In their alumi-
ments, upping the chance they’ll you shake off all the water before SLOPE METER: Since almost all fatal ava-
num-frame packs, the
break and render the whole thing heading inside. explorers carried lanches occur on slopes of 30 to 45 de-
useless (or poke you in the eye). 44 pounds each; to- grees, use this to determine the angle of a
day’s ultralight gear slope so you know when to avoid attempt-
7. Vents might weigh half that.
ing to cross it.
3. Solid rivets Vented umbrellas let the wind
Rivets hold together the joints pass through slits so your um- 5. K2
First ascent: Achille TRANSCEIVER/BEACON: Fasten it securely
where the ribs bend—solid stain- brella won’t flip inside out. Compagnoni and Lino under your outer layer and it sends and
less-steel rivets are more durable Lacedelli in 1954.
receives radio signals, allowing rescuers to
for years of opening and closing 8. Warranty Compagnoni dropped
find your general area.
a glove while taking
than hollow rivets that you can Some companies include a war- photos; Lacedelli
see through. ranty that protects you not just quickly gave him one AVALANCHE CORD: Although largely re-
from defects but also from wear of his own, but
placed by beacons, it’s a good, light,
Compagnoni’s hand
4. Tougher frames and tear for years; Davek offers a was already additional line of defense whose batteries
Most are made from aluminum in lifetime warranty and even gives frostbitten, and both never die. Attach one end of the red nylon
China; you want fiberglass, which you a discount if you lose the men lost fingers. cord to your pack and drag the rest of the
is more durable. umbrella. 30-foot length behind you.
A HISTORY OF PERFORMANCE CLOTHING (CONT’D) I L LU ST R AT I O N BY P E T E R O U M A N S K I
1990 Loro Piana 2015 Ministry of 2016 and beyond Google

creates Storm Sys- Supply unveils a and Levi’s team up on
tem, an ultrathin thermoregulatory Project Jacquard, making
membrane to water- sweater using NASA interactive garments that
proof and windproof micro-wax-melting owners can swipe or tap
wool (even cash- technology to keep to send a wireless signal
mere and vicuña) the wearer warmer to the wearer’s mobile
without affecting its or cooler, depending device.
softness. on his body tem-
perature.
Pa ge E s q uire’s Fa ll
Fall /
Winter
Challenge
No. 3
HOW
TO
ROUGH
IT
Glamping?*
We’ll pass. But it is
entirely possible
to weather a
weekend in the
woods (or wherever
things get wild) in
clothing both rugged
and refined.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
JENNY GAGE
& TOM BETTERTON
*regret
That’d be “glamorous camping.” We
to inform you that it is a thing.
COLLARS
AND
HOODS:
TOP OF
MIND
Ninety-eight percent of
the value of a coat de-
rives from the body and
sleeves, yet the smaller
elements that top the
thing off—the collar
and/or the hood—can
make the difference
between spending time
in the great outdoors
and spending time in
the just-okay, it’s-kind-
of-cold outdoors. It’s
why some designers
will forgo the full-body
shearling approach but
still attach a shearling
collar to cotton, wool, or
nylon. (Flip that collar
up when the wind kicks
in and fear no evil.) Or
why they’ll line a hood
in soft wool—the better
to envelop your head
and neck.
Page E s q uire’s
T h i s p a g e : Ny l o n -
a n d - s h e a r l i n g j a c ke t
( $ 2,99 5 ) a n d d e n i m j e a n s
( $4 9 5) by R a l p h La u re n
Purple Label; ralphlauren.
c o m . C o t t o n s h i r t ( $ 24 5 )
by H a mi l t o n ; h a mi l t o n -
s h i r t s .c o m .O p p o s i t e :
C o t t o n j a c ke t ( $ 3,888) ,
wool-and-angora zip-
up sweater ($1,4 28) ,
and cashmere sweater
( $ 1,4 4 5) by E t ro ; e t ro.
c o m . C o t t o n j e a n s ( $78)
by Levi’s; levi.com.
Fa ll
2015
Fro m l e f t : S h e a r l i n g c o a t ( $4, 2 9 0 ) a n d c o t t o n
trousers ($430) by Dunhill; dunhill.com. Cotton-
f l a n n e l s h i r t ( $ 8 5 ) by B e re t t a ; b e re t t a u s a .c o m .
Le ather ja cket ($5,440 ), de nim shirt ( $740) ,
and wool trousers ($870) by Brunello Cucinelli;
b r u n ello cu cin elli.co m.
Page E s q uire’s
TRUST
IN MOTHER
NATURE
’Cause the lady knew what
she was doing when it came
to making warm wind- and
water-resistant materials.
A waxed-cotton jacket
from Belstaff (right) handily
blocks out the rain and
the shearling coats from Dunhill
and Brunello Cucinelli (opposite)
wrap the body in warmth
the way only an inside-out
sheep- or lambskin can. Still,
that’s not to say technology
doesn’t have its place: These
shearling hides have been
tanned and treated using
cutting-edge techniques, making
them that much softer, lighter,
and more malleable than previ-
ous generations of shearling.
Wa xed-cotton jacket ($695) and cotton

j e a n s ( $ 3 9 5 ) by B e l s t a f f; b e l s t a f f.c o m .
C o t t o n s h i r t ( $ 2 1 0 ) by Lev i ’s Vi n t a g e
C lo t h in g; s t even a la n.c om. Le athe r duc k
boots ($200) by Tommy Hilfiger.
Fa ll
2015
THE
GROWN
MAN’S
DOWN
JACKET
Do not misunderstand—we
love the puffy, down-filled
nylon jackets that have come
to dominate many an active
man’s weekend wardrobe.
But for a more refined and
sophisticated (and grown-
up) variation, this Moorer
down jacket has a soft,
flannel-like wool shell
rendered that much warmer
by direct-injection goose-
down filling. (The direct-
injection technique results in
a loftier, lighter, yet warmer
distribution of the filling,
making the jacket less puffy
and more airy.) Leave the
removable hood on for a Sat-
urday in the woods or take
it off come Monday when
you’re looking for a sportier
alternative to an overcoat.
Wool -and -ny l on j acket ($2,198)

by Moorer; m oorer.i t . Wool -b l end ve s t
($ 295 ) by Wool r i ch; wool r i ch.com .
C ot t on cham b r ay s hi r t ($ 88)
by J. Crew; jcrew.com. Wool-blend
chinos ($175) by Michael Kors;
michaelkors.com.
Page E s q uire’s
Fa ll
2015
This page: Wool peacoat
($2,990), wool sweater
($760), cotton denim
shirt ($760), and denim
jeans ($495) by Gucci;
gucci.com. Leather boots
($975) by Esquivel; store.
esquivelshoes.com.
Steel Carrera Automatic
chronograph ($4,800)
by TAG Heuer; tagheuer.
com. Opposite: Nylon
vest ($615), wool turtle-
neck sweater ($395), and
leather boots ($910) by
Moncler; moncler.com.
Cotton corduroy pants
($195) by Gant Rugger;
gant.com.
Page E s q uire’s
A VEST
TO SHINE
There are vests that
exist to hide, lying flat
beneath a top layer
to maximize insula-
tion but minimize the
addition of any excess
baggage to your body,
and there are vests that
exist to shine. Moncler’s
lacquered puffer vest
(right), with its high
turtleneck closure, is, of
course, one of the latter,
and when it’s contrast-
ed with the matte finish
of wool or denim, it
brings the entire outfit
to an altogether
higher plane.
Fa ll
2015
Page E s q uire’s
BE AT ONE
(VISUALLY)
WITH YOUR
SURROUNDINGS
There is a time and a place for
bright, loud colors in the woods,
and it is called the zone of fire.
The rest of the time, ease into
your environment with various
shades of neutrals in the green
and beige families. You won’t
disappear into your surround-
ings (as was the motivation for
wearing certain tweeds in the
early days of the cloth), but
you’ll blend in and harmonize
with them.
Shearling bomber jacket ($5,925), cotton

pants ($425), and suede boots ($675) by
Tod’s; tods.com. Wool sweater ($495) by
Moncler; moncler.com. Steel Pilot’s chrono-
graph ($4,900) by IWC; iwc.com. Wool-blend
blanket ($145) by Woolrich; woolrich.com.
Fa ll
2015
Shearling jacket ($3,595)
and cotton jeans ($275)
by Burberry Brit; burberry.
com. Nubuck-and-rubber
boots ($150) by Sorel;
sorel.com. Steel Runwell
Sport watch ($625) by Shi-
nola; shinola.com. Wool-
blend blanket ($145) by
Woolrich; woolrich.com.
Page E s q uire’s
PROPER
FOOTWEAR
REQUIRED
From the lug-sole vigor
of hiking boots to the
pleasingly retro ease
of chukka boots, a man
has plenty of footwear
options for whatever
the woods entail. To
cover all eventualities,
it’s hard to go wrong
with a pair of Sorels
(opposite). With their
waterproof nubuck
uppers, felt inner lin-
ings with shearling-
like “snow cuffs,” and
vulcanized-rubber outer
shells that could with-
stand a nuclear blast,
they provide traction
and support from the
toes right on up through
the ankles. While we
are generally Switzer-
land in the debate about
whether to tuck trou-
sers into boots, it would
be a shame to cover
these up.
Wool jacket ($2,700), wool

sweater ($1,100), and
denim jeans ($540) by Bottega
Veneta; bottegaveneta.com.
Wool-blend blanket ($90) by
Woolrich; woolrich.com.
Fa ll
2015
GO BEYOND
THE BASICS
Maybe it’s the thigh-
length, double-faced
wool-poly-blend topcoat
from Herno (this page),
the Italian company that
has been innovating out-
erwear since the 1940s.
Maybe it’s the double-
breasted shearling coat
in baby lambskin from
Hermès (opposite), a
French brand that has
been synonymous with
high luxury since forever.
Both are unexpected
choices, but both prove
that a weekend in the
woods, with no roof in
sight, is no excuse to
skimp on style.
This page: Wool topcoat ($1,195) by

Herno; trcstyle.com. Cotton shirt
($995) and cotton trousers ($595)
by Tomas Maier; tomasmaier.com.
Suede boots ($298) by Cole Haan;
colehaan.com. Opposite: Double-
breasted lambskin coat ($17,500)
by Hermès; hermes.com. Wool-
and-suede shirt ($1,175) by Brioni;
brioni.com. Cotton jeans ($78) by
Levi’s; levi.com.
Page E s q uire’s
Fa ll
2015
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y J O E M C K E N D R Y. G R O O M I N G B Y R I K A S H I M A D A F O R A R T D E P A R T M E N T. P R O D U C E D B Y G I A N I N A J I M E N E Z , S E T D E S I G N B Y S H A W N B R Y D G E S , B O T H F O R B R Y D G E S M A C K I N N E Y.
SO YOU
WANT
TO GO
CAMPING Here’s what you’ll want to bring
BEST STOVE: The bag’s stretch construction provide extra space but also for space: The two-pound, ten-ounce tent’s
for restless legs, and although its luxuriously outwardly angled walls increase interior storage
BIOLITE CAMPSTOVE insulating 850-fill down maintains warmth to 0 and room, leaving you an 11-square-foot storage
The BioLite is fueled by wood—not by charcoal or
degrees F, you can unzip its “Thermo Gills” to locker and 29 square feet of sleeping space. $390;
gas—which makes for a smoke-free burn and a low
feel the comfort of a warmer fall breeze. $500; sierradesigns.com.
carbon footprint. The stove also converts excess heat
nemoequipment.com.
into thermoelectricity, so its USB outlet allows you to
charge up your phone or GoPro while the fire burns. BEST LARGE-GROUP TENT:
$130; biolitestove.com. BEST BACKPACK: REI KINGDOM 8 TENT
OSPREY ATMOS AG 65 Its innovative pole structure forms vertical walls
BEST COOLER: On a multiday uphill schlep, your pack can feel (more headroom) without sacrificing sturdiness, and
YETI TUNDRA 45 heavier with each switchback. The Atmos counteracts its backpack-style storage allows you to easily carry
The question isn’t, “What cooler should I buy?” It’s the burden with its brand-new AG (“anti-gravity”) the kingdom on your back. $529; rei.com.
“Which Yeti?” The Tundra 45 is built with the sturdiest system. This well-ventilated and highly adjustable
of walls, the tightest of seals, and the most reflective pack doesn’t rely on foam padding or plastic frame BEST LANTERN:
sheets to buttress weight support; instead it’s made of
of exteriors, all of which make for the longest-lasting
a continuous lightweight mesh running throughout.
BLACK DIAMOND APOLLO
insulation available. A bonus? Apply a couple of The Apollo provides gas-caliber light, 200 lumens
padlocks to this model and it’s certified bear-proof $260; ospreypacks.com.
of it. But you can ditch the heavy fuel and toss the
by the Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee. $350; matches: Four AA batteries will give this 7.8-ounce
yeticoolers.com. BEST SLEEPING PAD: electric lamp 60 hours of light. It illuminates a 49-
THERM-A-REST NEOAIR XTHERM foot diameter, basically loops on to anything, and
BEST KNIFE: The XTherm is the lightest, comfiest, warmest, and stands on its own with its collapsible kickstand. $50;
FALLKNIVEN A1 easiest-to-pack sleeping pad on the market. It’s built blackdiamondequipment.com.
Out there, you don’t need a set of widgets that can with durable nylon to handle the tough jabs of rocky
trim your nose and file your nails. You need a knife—a campsites, and yet it softly provides an insulated and BEST FLASHLIGHT:
slice of steel that can cut and chop whatever the cozy night’s sleep. From $200, depending on size;
campsite and the thicket throw at you. The A1 has an thermarest.com.
FENIX MC11
It weighs 2.6 ounces and looks like a can of pepper
ergonomic grip and convex grind to ruggedly and
spray, but the MC11’s small size is its biggest asset.
dependably do just that. $322; fallkniven.com. BEST TWO-PERSON TENT: This flashlight can adjustably shoot out a massive 155
SIERRA DESIGNS TENSEGRITY 2 FL lumens of light while clipped to almost anything, or
BEST SLEEPING BAG: With its sleek lines and open stance, the Tensegrity while hung via its built-in D-ring, or while standing on
NEMO SONIC DOWN SLEEPING BAG looks like a piece of midcentury-modern architec- its own, or while snug in the palm of your hand. $40;
The Sonic’s shape and versatility make it a rarity. ture. But its shape is designed not only for style fenix-store.com. —MAX MARSHALL
THE
INFORMATION
Warmth THOUGHTS AND
GUIDANCE ON ENJOYING
THE COMFORTS OF THE
GREAT INDOORS
about your youth

before World
War II
Cotton flannel pajama set ($575) and cotton pajama pants cotton pants ($145) by
nightgown ($50) by L. L. by Turnbull & Asser; ($98) by Sleepy Jones; Sunspel; sunspel.com.
Bean; llbean.com. turnbullandasser.com. sleepyjones.com.
THE SNOW-DAY SUGGESTION

THE WINTERIZED HOME
READ A BOOK SET IN A Seven steps to make sure your home is
BALMY, SUNNY CLIMATE ready for whatever the season throws at it.
Check off as you go!
Check the seals on your windows to prevent drafts.
By Charvet ($395);
Buy a cover for any A/C window units or outdoor
grills.
THE GET SHORTY TOURIST
SHELTERING By Elmore SEASON Invest in a “draft snake” to keep cold air from seeping in
SKY Leonard By Carl Hiaasen under doorways.
By Paul Bowles
Clean out and/or replace your furnace filters to prevent
blockages.
Invest in a space heater for the part of your living room

that is always freezing.
etro.com.
LOVE IN THE THE TALENTED MIDNIGHT’S Upgrade your blanket. (See next page.)
TIME OF MR. RIPLEY CHILDREN
CHOLERA By Patricia By Salman Rushdie Anticipate potential shortages by stocking up on bags
Highsmith of rock salt for your driveway, deicing fluid for your car’s OUTDOORS, WITH
By Gabriel García
CAUTION
Márquez windshield, and bourbon.
2015 Big Black B o ok 1 69
THE INFORMATION
How to Build the Perfect Fire:
Indoor Edition
1. To make a 2. Arrange a few 3. Skip the 4. Use matches 5. Keep adding
base, crumple pieces of kindling pyramid shape. or a lighter to set logs.
single sheets of in an X pattern Instead, stack fire to the news-
newspaper into on top of the larger pieces of paper. As the
loose balls and paper. dry wood in a smaller pieces of
cluster them to- log-cabin-style wood catch fire,
gether. square around start piling big-
the outside of the ger wood pieces
newspaper and on top.
kindling.
THE UPGRADE:
. . . AND THREE
DRINKS TO
THE WINTER BLANKET ENJOY IN FRONT
OF IT
On the face of it, it seems like a slightly ries. No one blanket rules them all. Lighter Hot Toddy
childish impulse: a blanket—really? But and softer (like cotton and cashmere-wool Scrape a sugar cube against a lemon rind
for the man who spends enough time blends) or heavier and coarser (like pure to release the oil. In a mug, muddle the sugar cube
in a double shot of rye whiskey.
watching sports on the couch or reading in wool): Follow your own taste and prefer- Break apart a cinnamon stick and toss in the pieces.
a chair, a good winter blanket laid across ence, but keep in mind that the beauty of Top off with boiling water to taste.
the lap and covering one’s stomach and a good winter blanket is that it is meant to
chest is one of the season’s ultimate luxu- be shared. Irish Coffee
In a mug, combine 2 oz Irish whiskey,
5 to 6 oz coffee, and 2 tsp
sugar. Stir and then top off with a thick layer of
Wool blanket
whipped cream or 1 or 2 oz heavy cream—
($580) by Etro;
in either case, don’t stir it in.
etro.com.
Hot Buttered Rum
In a mug, dissolve two sugar cubes in a little
hot water, and then add 2 oz dark rum and 1 pat
unsalted butter. Fill the rest of the mug with hot water
Wool-and- and top off with a little nutmeg.
cashmere
blanket
($1,525) by
Hermès;
hermes.com. FOUR STEPS TO A WARMER
BED
Cotton
blanket ($215)
by Ralph
Lauren Home;
ralphlauren-
home.com. THE MATTRESS PAD: A good down-filled
pad underneath the fitted sheet ensures your
underside feels the warmth, too.
THE SHEETS: Two words: cotton flannel.
The cotton that makes up most flannel sheets
has been brushed to render it soft and lofty,
and in between those brushed fibers are tiny
air pockets that capture and retain body heat.
THE COMFORTER: Opt for a down com-
Wool blanket ($1,550) Wool-and-cashmere forter with special heat-releasing breathability
by Louis Vuitton; blanket ($1,725) by panels that regulate temperature.
louisvuitton.com. Hermès; hermes.com.
THE QUILT: For site-specific warmth (e.g.,
over your feet or across your chest).
Page E s q uire’s
WARMTH
THE INDEFENSIBLE
POSITION
CONSIDER
THE
TANNING
BED
Moist, warm, and a
little sticky, a tanning
bed is a clammy plea-
sure. You get naked.
Earplugs. Eye pro-
tection. Then you lie
on a sheet of warm
glass and pull down RHONE APPAREL (EST. 2013) MOON & SON (EST. 2015)
the huge coffin door Fitness-focused clothes you can For men who like yoga and all
banked with fluores- wear anywhere. Each garment girlfriend’s favorite yoga pants is luxury,” like washable cashmere things yoga-related. Polyester
cent bulbs and listen has a manly quote printed on the pushing hard into the men’s and workout-friendly cotton. T-shirt ($30), polyester-
for a crisp flicker inside (e.g., “May the brave live market. Nylon-spandex jacket Cotton-cashmere-blend shirt and-lycra shorts ($70), and
of life. And then: a forever”). Double-weave polyester ($128), nylon-blend T-shirt ($64), ($138) and cotton-blend chinos cotton hat ($45);
blessed, bone-warm- pullover ($98) and nylon stretch and nylon-blend pants ($98); ($148); kitandace.com. themoonandson.com.
ing heat. For me, it pants ($98); rhoneapparel.com. lululemon.com.
lasts 12 minutes. One
hundred and fifty
breaths. Two wak-
ing dreams. If you’re
Before You Buy/Build/Try

lucky, just two Garth
Brooks songs. Then
the lights snap off like
someone dropped a
plastic bucket on the
lid of the thing, and
it’s over. WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT...
I grew up in Roch-
ester, New York, be-
lieving that people
who worship the sun
are callow, feckless
weaklings who aren’t
happy when the wind
blows, rain falls, or
the seasons change.
Actually, I still believe
that. But tanning by
machine is not about
the sun. I don’t want
a tan. I go to the beds
for one reason: I want
to be irradiated. It’s
about the heat. I want
the inexplicable daze
of it, the amped-up
body temperature, SAUNAS HOT TUBS LIGHT BOXES
the crisp report of Why: The dry heat. A sauna typically Why: Extremely relaxing. And because Why: They mimic natural outdoor
a just-noticeable hits temps of around 185 degrees. bubbles are fun. sunlight and help fight SAD (seasonal
shoulder burn when
affective disorder), a type of depression
I step, boldly and Why not: They can be unsafe for Why not: They require some up-
open-coated, into an that occurs in the fall or winter. (No, a
icy Tuesday night. Af-
people with poorly controlled blood keep—brushing the tub weekly to pre-
regular lamp won’t cut it—therapeutic
ter 12 minutes on the pressure or heart issues, such as vent dirt and algae buildup; cleaning the
levels of light are 5 to 20 times higher
bed, I am impervious abnormal rhythms, unstable angina, or filters; and draining, scrubbing, and re-
to cold for as long as than the typical level of illumination in a
valve disease. Start slowly, with just five filling the tub every one to three months.
24 hours, then slight- home or office.)

ly less so in the days minutes in the heat, and add a minute
that follow. each session to work up your schvitz What to buy: Some of the best tubs Why not: Seriously—why not?
Here’s where the time gradually, thereby lowering your are made by Hot Spring Spas, which
caveats should go. offers features like a saltwater sanitizing What to buy: Lamps are relatively
The warnings—the risk of passing out.
system and jets that can move up and inexpensive. (Try the Philips goLite Blu
walls of tanning
salons are lined with What to buy: The newest saunas use down your back. Consider the above- Energy Light, $150, which is recharge-
’em. Read up, bub. infrared technology to heat the space. ground options, since inground tubs typ- able, so you can move it around without
Don’t get burned. But A reputable brand is JNH Lifestyles; ically cost $15,000 to $20,000 and require worrying about a cord.) Position the
sometimes, you just
gotta get warm.
its infrared saunas feature carbon-fiber professional installation—think site device so that the light reaches your
—TO M C H I A R E L L A heaters, chemical-free Canadian hem- excavation, plumbing, electrical work, eyes for 20 to 30 minutes a day, but don’t
lock wood, digital temperature controls, and sometimes a gas hookup. look directly into it.
and built-in speakers.
Fa ll
2015
THE INFORMATION: WARMTH
Theaters of Warmth
THE OVERLY SIMPLISTIC GUIDE TO WARM-WEATHER MIDWINTER ESCAPES
Caribbean North Africa Southeast Asia

HOT DESTINATIONS: Miami— HOT DESTINATIONS: Turks and HOT DESTINATIONS: Moroccan HOT DESTINATIONS: São Paulo HOT DESTINATIONS: If you’re a
but for its wildlife, not its Caicos, the Cayman Islands. destinations like Marrakech for culture; Rio de Janeiro fan of cities, hit Bangkok,
wild nightlife. WHERE TO STAY: The Gan- and Fez, as well as the for beaches; Buenos Aires, Kuala Lumpur, Ho Chi Minh
WHERE TO STAY: The classic sevoort Turks + Caicos is a coastal city of Essaouira. Santiago de Chile, Medellín, City, Singapore, or Jakarta.
Fontainebleau, a 1950s sleek oceanfront hotel that (Given the overall instability and Cuzco, Peru, for every- If you prefer more laid-back
architectural marvel on 20 feels like Manhattan on the of the region, best to steer thing. travel, stop in Chiang Mai,
acres of pristine coastline; beach (and you won’t be clear of Libya, Algeria, and WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Aranwa Thailand; Mandalay, Myan-
it’s also got a 40,000-square- surrounded by old men in Tunisia.) Cusco Boutique in Peru or mar; Luang Prabang, Laos;
foot spa. Hawaiian shirts). Kimpton’s WHERE TO STAY: In Marrakech, the beachside Fasano Rio de or Yogyakarta, Indonesia.
WHAT TO DO: Spend the day first Caribbean property you can go classic Four Janeiro in Brazil. WHERE TO STAY: Southeast
at the beach, and/or head to will open in the Cayman Seasons or 14th-century- WHAT TO DO: There’s Peru’s Asia does luxury better
Little Havana to eat at Ver- Islands in 2016. It’s gonna be inspired Ksar Char-Bagh; if Machu Picchu, of course, than perhaps anywhere
sailles, home to a deserv- a beauty. you go to Egypt, sleep right but you also won’t want to else in the world—try the
edly world-famous Cuban WHAT TO DO: In Turks, go snor- along the Nile at the Sofitel miss Chile’s Atacama Des- Four Seasons Chiang Mai;
sandwich. (José Andrés is keling and pick up conch Winter Palace Luxor. ert, Iguazu Falls (between swim in the infinity pool at
a fan.) Then bike through shells from the ocean floor WHAT TO DO: Make your way Argentina and Brazil), and the Marina Bay Sands in
Everglades National Park to make into conch ceviche. to Merzouga, in the Moroc- Brazil’s coastal sand dunes, Singapore; or go for colonial
to burn it off (much quieter In the Caymans, charter a can Sahara, and take a the Lençóis Maranhenses. throwback Nam Hai Hotel
than an airboat). Pedal the private boat to visit Stingray camel safari into the desert. in Hoi An, Vietnam.
15-mile paved Shark Valley City. Wild stingrays con- Accommodations are basic, WHAT TO DO: Most travelers
loop, where alligators often gregate here, making it one but you can wake up to sun- to Indonesia who want the
line the path. of the world’s most unique rise over the sand dunes. beach head to Bali. Instead,
snorkel sites. Hit Grand take a flight, then a ferry,
Cayman in early May for and finally a speedboat to
Batabano, the island’s own one of the Raja Ampat (Four
one-day version of Carnival, Kings) Islands. If you’re
with parades, skimpy cos- going to Thailand, arrange
tumes, twerking, etc.; re- to be there for Loi Krathong,
cover on one of the quieter the beautiful floating-light
sister islands, Little Cayman festival in November.
FOR NIGHT OPTIONAL

sneakers (for long
walks and/or hiking)
•• One (1) pair khakis
One (1) crumpled-
•• Workout gear
Dress socks
• One (1) pair
sunglasses you
cotton unlined
blazer
• Sunscreen
wouldn’t hugely
mind losing
•• Two (2) dress shirts
One (1) pair loafers
• One (1) good
book (no longer
• Toothbrush, tooth-
paste
than 400 pages)
Fa ll
2015
ADVERTISEMENT
The Esquire Manhattan

is made with superior Jefferson’s bourbon and a combination
of the finest sweet and dry vermouth and bitters. Crafted
with the editors of Esquire and barrel-aged for 90 days,
the result is a damn good cocktail. Serve it up or on the
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AVAILABLE AT FINE LIQUOR STORES NATIONWIDE

13
T RAV EL
THE
12
The Wide World of Extraordinary

Outdoor Experiences 1
2 9
4
I l l u s t ra t i o n b y An j e J a g e r 3 6 10
7 8 11
5
1. Ice Climb in Alaska 5. Scuba Dive in a

Near Glacier Bay National Park, Geothermal Crater
your guides will show you how Though it’s filled with snowmelt
to climb glaciated mountains us- from Utah’s Wasatch Mountains,
ing anchors, crampons, and ice the naturally heated mineral
axes. alaskamountainguides.com pool in the Homestead Crater
is still 96 degrees, making it
2. Heli-Ski in Whistler, B. C. the warmest diving water
Head to Whistler, B. C., and from in the continental U. S.
December to April, you can take homesteadresort.com
a helicopter to the top of one of
475 runs. You park and unload, 6. Master Survival in
and then ski or snowboard down Big Sky Country 9. Take the Real
terrain that features 173 glaciers Head to Butte, Montana, and Polar Express
and subalpine open tree runs. learn how to rescue someone Reserve a sleeper car on VIA
whistlerheliskiing.com buried in an avalanche, start a Rail Canada for the two-day,
fire, build a shelter, and repair a 1,000-mile ride from Winnipeg
3. Try Something Called snowmobile. thepeakinc.com to Churchill, the vast subarctic
Randonnée region of northern Manitoba.
Also called alpine touring, it 7. Go Fat Tire Snow Biking viarail.ca
involves wearing skis designed As you pedal through Grand 20
for hiking up a mountain and Teton National Park or Wyo- 10. Mush, Mush!
then skiing down it. Hire a guide ming’s National Elk Refuge, grip Mush a team of dogs and
who can take you up (and down) the snow with the bike’s four- maneuver a sled in Minnesota’s
four major peaks in Washing- inch tires and keep an eye out Superior National Forest. 12. Kayak with
ton state and who can lessen for elk and moose. tetonmtbike. whitewilderness.com Humpback Whales
your chances of skiing off a cliff. com/tours_winter.htm At Natural Habitat Adventures’
alpineinstitute.com 11. Skijore. Really. luxury base camp, set on a fjord
8. Eat Waffles at It’s basically a combination of within view of the Greenland
4. Heli-Tour the Rockies 10,000 Feet dogsledding and cross-country Ice Sheet, you can kayak with
Flying over Mount Assiniboine At the top of Rendezvous Peak skiing—you’re attached by a whales, take guided hikes through
along the continental divide, you in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, a res- harness and a rope to a dog tundras, and visit Inuit villages.
can check out glaciers, lakes, taurant named Corbet’s Cabin while you ski. Try skijoring for nathab.com
and rivers from above. You can serves Nutella and peanut- yourself in the Hilltown Wilder-
also land for an hour of snow- butter-and-bacon waffles with ness Adventures program in 13. Tour the North Pole
shoeing or hiking in a remote one of the most spectacular western Massachusetts. Fourteen-day trips on a nuclear-
spot that would otherwise take views in the American West. hilltownwildernessadventures. powered icebreaker include a
forever to reach. rockiesheli.com jacksonhole.com/waffles.html wordpress.com/skijoring Zodiac boat tour and a hot-air-
Photographs and illustrations: Editor’s Letter, p. 32: Christopher Griffith, Jenny Gage and Tom Van Hasselt/Corbis. The New Fundamentals: Overcoats, p. 88: Keystone/Hulton Archive/Getty;
Betterton, Phil Poynter. Top of the World, pp. 50–53: Luis Peña. The Secret Lives of Winter Boots, pp. 89–90, 92: Ben Goldstein/Studio D. The Secret Weapons, pp. 100, 102, 104, 106: Ben Gold-
pp. 56, 58, 60, 62: Boots: Ben Goldstein/Studio D; p. 62: Chandler: Illustration based on a photo by stein/Studio D. The New Fundamentals: Accessories, p. 108: Topical Press Agency/Getty; pp.
Elizabeth Lavin. The Standard-Bearers, pp. 82–84: Clothing: Ben Goldstein/Studio D; p. 82: Ever- 109–110, 112: Ben Goldstein/Studio D. Information: Maintenance, p. 129: Boots, lug sole: Spen-
est: Jodi Cobb/National Geographic Creative; Hillary and Norgay: Royal Geographical Society (with cer Cohen; shoe protection: Lauren Dishinger; p. 130: Overcoat: Ben Goldstein/Studio D; p. 131:
IBG); Everest route: Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty; p. 83: Mountaineers: AGIP–Rue des Sweaters: Lauren Dishinger; p. 132: Facesavers: Spencer Cohen. Information: Performance, p.
Archives/Granger, NYC; K2: DeAgostini/Getty; p. 84: Pringle factory, 1950: Keystone/Getty; 1949: George 145: Clothing: Spencer Cohen; Barrymore: Hulton Archive/Getty; Mitchell: Gems/Redferns/Getty;
Konig/Keystone Features/Getty; The Great Waldo Pepper: Everett Collection. Apa Sherpa, p. 86: John Wilde: Fine Art Images/Heritage Images/Getty; Hudson: John Springer Collection/Corbis; Dalí:
Page E s q uire’s
19. Watch the
Northern Lights
Around 200 nights of the year,
you can snowshoe in northern
Finland to view the aurora
14 16 18 19 borealis. laplandsafaris.com
15 17
24 20. Walk with Penguins
Take a luxury Linblad Expedi-
tions–National Geographic
cruise departing from Argentina.
23 Once you arrive in Antarctica,
naturalists will walk you onto
22 ice fields with thousands of
penguins. expeditions.com
21. Climb Kilimanjaro

January and February are the
warmest, best months for scram-
bling to the top of the 19,340-foot
mountain, though you’ll still face
21
lots of ice getting to the summit.
ultimatekilimanjaro.com
22. Ski the Himalayas

In Kashmir, India, ride the
Gulmarg gondola to the top of
Mount Apharwat, one of the least-
mapped ski areas in the world.
Be on the lookout for monkeys,
eagles, and even the occasional
snow leopard. skigulmarg.com
23. Après-ski in a
Japanese Bathhouse
At Nozawa Onsen, thirty miles
northeast of Nagano, ski the
balloon ride at the top of the 15. Sweat in a 17. Ice-Drive in Sweden 5,413-foot Mount Kenashi, then
world. (See page 50 for a preview Floating Sauna Take the wheel of a studded-tire soak with locals at one of the
of what you’ll find there.) quark- There may not be electricity Porsche and test your limits over 13 free community bathhouses
expeditions.com or running water in Sweden’s frozen lakes. belowzeroicedriv- (soto-yu), with pools fed by
Kolarbyn Eco-Lodge, but there is ing.com thermal springs. nozawaski.com/
14. Soak in the a wood-fire-heated sauna float- winter/en
Blue Lagoon ing in the lake. wildsweden.com/ 18. Snowmobile in
Even in the frigid Icelandic kolarbyn-ecolodge Lapland 24. Backcountry Ski
winter, this natural geothermal A driver’s license is all you through Kamchatka
lagoon stays between 98 and 16. Sleep in an Ice Hotel need to rent your chariot and After journeying through the
104 degrees; float around in the Spend the night in one of this zip over frozen lakes and Avachinsky group of volcanoes
bright-blue water and soothe hotel’s 65 rooms, built by artists through snowy forests in in eastern Russia, dip your tired
dry winter skin with the lagoon’s in Jukkasjärvi, Sweden, using northern Finland. lapland- legs in the Karymshina Hot
silica mud. bluelagoon.com snow and ice. icehotel.com safaris.com Springs. explorekamchatka.com
Photo B.D.V./Corbis; Stallone: Steve Schapiro/Corbis; Duchamp: Bettmann/Corbis; Liberace: The Pajamas: Spencer Cohen; p. 170: Drink: John P. Kelly/Getty; p. 171: Loungewear: Spencer Cohen;
Life Picture Collection/Getty; p. 146: Caveman: J. T. Vintage/Bridgeman Images; sheep: Raymond p. 172: Florida, Caribbean: Lake County Discovery Museum/UIG/Bridgeman Images; North Africa,
Kleboe/Picture Post/Getty; p. 147: Men in raincoats: Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; ham- South America, Southeast Asia: Mary Evans/Grenville Collins Postcard Collection/Everett Collection.
mer and watch: Maxoido/dreamstime.com; chain mail: Getty; socks: DeA Picture Library/Granger,
NYC; men in overcoats: The Print Collector/Print Collector/Getty; p. 148: McQueen: François Esquire: The Big Black Book is published by Hearst Communications, Inc., 300 West Fifty-seventh
Gragnon/Paris Match via Getty; mackintosh: Mary Evans Picture Library/Everett Collection; Levi’s Street, NY, NY 10019-3797, USA; 212-649-2000. Steven R. Swartz, President and Chief Executive
ad: Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; soldiers: Natal Witness Archives/Gallo Images/Getty; Officer; William R. Hearst III, Chairman; Frank A. Bennack, Jr., Executive Vice Chairman; Catherine
p. 149: Burberry ad: Advertising Archive/Everett Collection; zipper: Kuleshin/iStockPhoto; p. 150: A. Bostron, Secretary. Hearst Magazines Division: David Carey, President; John A. Rohan, Jr., Se-
Ensembles: Spencer Cohen; long johns: Mary Evans/United Artists/Ronald Grant/Everett Collec- nior Vice President, Finance. © 2015 by Hearst Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Canada
tion; briefs: FPG/Hulton Archive/Getty; p. 151: Storto: Randy Duchaine; Velcro: Ben Martin/The BN NBR 10231 0943 RT. Editorial and advertising offices: 300 West Fifty-seventh Street, 21st Floor,
Life Picture Collection/Getty; jockstrap: 2/PM Images/Ocean/Corbis; astronaut: Space Frontiers/ NY, NY 10019-3797. Esquire: The Big Black Book is not responsible for return of unsolicited man-
Getty; p. 152: Singin’ in the Rain: Michael Ochs Archives/Getty. Information: Warmth, p. 169: uscripts or art. To purchase additional copies, visit blackbook.esquire.com. Printed in the USA.
Fa ll
2015

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A N D R E W L AU R E N

P O RT FOLIO 1 PORTFOL IO 2 PORTFO LI O 3

How to How to How to

Maintenance Performance Warmth

Pristine Seas Expeditions

Top of the World The New Fundamentals:

WHAT I’VE LEARNED:

The Secret Lives of

On the cover: Photograph by Phil Poynter

T his edition of the Big Black Book is an amazing resource.

MARKET EDITOR Benjamin Liong Setiawan • F A S H I O N A S S I S T A N T Alfonso Fernández Navas

SVP / PUBLISHING DIRECTOR & CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER Jack Essig

D I R E C T O R O F S P I R I T S A N D E N T E R T A I N M E N T Leah Doyle • A M E R I C A N F A S H I O N , R E T A I L & G R O O M I N G D I R E C T O R Andrew C. Bowen

I N T E G R A T E D A U T O M O T I V E D I R E C T O R Mark Fikany • M I D W E S T D I R E C T O R Justin Harris • S O U T H W E S T D I R E C T O R Todd A. Simons

A C C O U N T M A N A G E R & N E W E N G L A N D Brian Kantor • E A S T C O A S T A U T O M O T I V E D I R E C T O R Cameron Albergo

Pacific Northwest Andrea Wiener/Athena Media Partners 415-828-0908

Gina Azzolini, Molly Bentley, John V. Cipolla, Stephanie J. Derrick,

Toni Starrs, Yvonne Villareal , Katrina Sofia Yap ( A S S I S T A N T T O T H E P U B L I S H E R )

E X E C U T I V E C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R , G R O U P M A R K E T I N G — H M G Jana Nesbitt Gale

D I R E C T O R , I N T E G R A T E D M A R K E T I N G William Upton • D I R E C T O R , I N T E G R A T E D M A R K E T I N G John Courtney

A S S O C I A T E D I R E C T O R , I N T E G R A T E D M A R K E T I N G Colin H. Stayton • R E S E A R C H M A N A G E R Peter Davis

The Louis Vuitton Hiking Boot

The Pal Zileri Bag

LUXURY INSIDE AND OUT

The Timothy Everest Parka

A FINE SARTORIAL PERFORMANCE

to test out their wares in extremis. The company’s

SCENES FROM SVALBARD, CLOCKWISE

THE OWNER: Baltasar Kormákur, ﬁlmmaker

I USED TO WEAR a lot of

THE OWNER: Mads Refslund, chef

DETROIT • NE W YORK • LOS ANGELES • LONDON

WHEN YOU’RE MAKING

E XPERIENCE THE NEW LUXURY LIFEST YLE

Photographs by Philip Friedman

1 The Frabill Straight Line 371

1 Jeremy Jones, a pro

1 The avalanche-protection air-bag

Watches in the World

IWC and the Annual Calendar. >

Like Ralph Lauren’s Automotive watch, with a bezel

Perhaps it’s the aperture that

Artisanal Modern Italia

Garys Stanley Korshak Trunk Club

As any yachtsman knows, the

10, 9, 8 . . . race is critical to a good start

the reversal Master II, Rolex has perfected

of time. one that can be “programmed”

S t eel O y s t er Per p et ual Yac h t - M a s t e r II

Like Breitling’s Emergency watch,

Hillary, left, and Tenzing Norgay, just

It’s an ethnic name. We believe our ances-

It took me six hours to walk to school ev-

I’m not that tall or big. I’m a little guy,

On my ﬁrst expedition to a big mountain,

But ﬁrst, a question:

Shearling inchage and therefore perfect

Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon — a rare balance of

FAVOR BOLDNESS AT C HIMNEY R OCK . COM

L AKE BLUFF, IL © 2015 TERL ATO WINES INTERNATIONAL

What you want to be driving when the weatherman says

THE 1979–87 MERCEDES-BENZ 240 GD:

THE 2015 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LIMITED ECODIESEL: