Metropolitan Mountaineering Society

BAKUN 3 PEAKS- MT. KABUNIAN, MT. TENGLAWAN, MT. LOBO

INTRODUCTION

Bakun is at the North-West bordering the Ilocos Sur side of the province of
Benguet. Bakun is a relatively young municipality, created on 1963. Prior
to its creation, 1903 census gave Bakun a population of only 10 people.
The name Bakun was derived from the word Bakkung meaning dipper as
folklores tells that a Spanish stranger asked a local about the name of the
place and due to the communication gap, the local thought he is being
asked of the name of the dipper he has in his hand. Bakun lists Mt.
Kabunian, Mt. Tenglawan, Bakun Rice Terraces, Mt. Kabunian Waterfalls
and Duligen Rock as its tourist attractions. Majority of its indigenous
population are Kan-kanai and the minorities are people called Bago,
whose origins are from Ilocos Sur. As such local dialects include Kan-kanai
and Ilokano. Bakun is 336 km away from Manila and 86 km from Baguio.
Bakun has 7 barangays – Poblacion, Ampusongan, Bagu, Dalipey,
Gambang, Kayapa, and Sinacbat. As of the last 1995 census, Bakun has
around 12,000 population and a land area of 30,700 ha. Approximately 2.5

Mt. Kabuninan. (2008-Mark S)

hectares per person. Although most maps points to a road branching from
Acop as the road to Bakun, the usual road access to Bakun is via Sinipsip
from km 71 Halsema highway, shortly after the Highest Point of the Philippine Road System marker. There are
also trails to Ilocos Sur but no formal access road as of this writing.

WHICH MOUTAIN TO CLIMB?

Created by: Long Henson 2008

 Metropolitan Mountaineering Society

Bakun tourism promotes three peaks within the surrounding mountains as ideal hiking destinations- Mt.
Kabunian, Mt. Lobo and Mt. Tenglawan. The best destination among the three is Mt. Kabunian- which has
long been promoted as the premier tourist destination of Bakun compared to Mt. Tenglawan and Mt. Lobo. It
would take 3-4 hours of trek to reach Kabunian’s summit. Mt. Lobo is usually considered a side-trip hiking
destination you can include on your trip since it would only take you 1.5 to 2 hours to climb it from Bgry.
Dada. But for Mt. Tenglawan, it would take you 6-8 hours so you may consider this if you would stay at Bakun
for about 3-4 days and if you are still physically capable of doing another mountain after the Kabunian trek.
Otherwise some groups explore this mountain separately; on a separate date. Most hikers plan a 3-peak climb
to maximize their visit to Bakun. But as mentioned, you would need time and planning to do the 3. These 3
mountains have different jump-off points. Lobo can be reached from Dada, an outskirt community of Brgy.
Poblacion; which is a 30 minutes drive from Bgry. Poblacion (it’s on your way to Poblacion from Halsema). You
may do this before or after a Kabunian trek. Kabunian can be reached from Brgy. Poblacion. Tenglawan was
promoted to be climbed from Brgy. Sinacbat. Brgy. Sinacbat is on a different route, around 2 hours from Dada.
But Tenglawan can also be trekked from Brgy. Poblacion with longer trekking time of 6 to 8 hours. Given that,
we would rather promote Tenglawan to be climbed from Brgy. Poblacion so that groups can use Brgy.
Poblacion as the base camp in exploring the 3 peaks. Ironically, the highest point in Bakun is Mt. Osdong at
2,500 MASL, which is currently not promoted for hiking.

MT. KABUNIAN (1,700 MASL- 16° 48.760N 120° 40.600E)

Has the privilege of being named after the Chief of the

“Kan-kanai” gods, Kabunian, the creator of all living things
and who apparently resides in Mt. Pulag. It is considered
a sacred place, a dwelling place of the gods, as most
northern mountains do. Some portions of the trail are a
bit challenging for weekend warriors. It would require
hands for scrambling around 45 degree steep trails with
lots of ridge trekking with both or one side of the trail too
steep for comfort. The trail has been established in
ancient times by Ifugao traders bartering their local
produce to the people on the other side of the mountain.
There are trails leading to the bordering towns of Ilocos
Sur. The mountain has been considered sacred burial
grounds of the Bakun mummies. Also unique to these
mountains are the Burial Jars of Bakun. The view from the
top is awesome, giving you a 360 viewpoint of the
surrounding environs.

There are numerous legends and stories about this

mountain. A rock formation called the “Eye of Kabunian”
can be seen from Poblacion. Most of the legends go
around the story of Duligen who stole gold plates
belonging to Kabunian. He was allegedly caught and was
turned into stone. According to locals, his stone image At Kabunian version of the Hilary Step. (2008-Mark S)
was once in the caves on the mountains but currently, it’s
now deformed and cannot be recognized. A spring is also claimed to be coming from the penis of Kabunian.
One true story though is the desecration that happened to Kabunian in the 80s and 90s. One story talks about
helicopters landing at Kabunian to steal their mummies. Logging companies on the other hand decimated the
once pine rich mountain until the enacment of the log ban. These stories made the inhabitants cautious in
dealing with progress and outsiders.

Created by: Long Henson 2008

 Metropolitan Mountaineering Society

MT. LOBO (Upper Lobo at 2,000 MASL)

There are 3 prominent peaks on what the locals calls Mt. Lobo
(or Lubo). They have christened the two of the explored peaks
as Upper Lobo and Lower Lobo. The Upper Lobo has an
elevation of 2,000 MASL, which locals claim as the highest
point. But actually, the highest point is still the third
unexplored and unnamed peak. The usual hiking destination is
what they call the Lower Lobo. Both Upper and Lower can be
climbed but as mentioned, hikers usually go to Lower Lobo
due to its majestic picturesque image with promising
spectacular views. From Lobo, there is a trail directly to Brgy. Mt. Lobo. (2007-Long H)
Pobalcion. But it’s still best to climb Lobo from Dada going
back to the Dada jump-off after the climb. Then just take a local transport to and from Brgy. Poblacion. Some
climb Lobo from Dada and treks down via the Poblacion route which will take them longer as Poblacion is
much lower than the altitude of Dada. Lobo is often inserted prior to or after exploring Bakun- Kabunian and
Tenglawan. Bakun website mentions of a creature named Telay as a resident of Lobo. Telay is claimed to have
no anus and relies only on smelling foods for sustenance.

MT. TENGLAWAN (1,900 MASL)

Mt Tenglawan is also a challenging mountain

Picture Perfect Mt. Tenglawan (2008-Mark S)
can pass by on your way down so that you will no longer need to bring packs on your summit bid. As
mentioned, from Poblacion, it would take you 6-8 hours to summit and another 6-8 hours on your way back to
Poblacion for a total of around 14-16 hours trek.
to climb compared to Mt. Lobo. It is more
challenging than Mt. Kabunian if attempted
from Brgy. Poblacion. The usual jump-off
point for Tenglawan is Brgy. Sinacbat, but it is
way off the Ampusungan, Dada and
Poblacion route. If you intend to do two or
more climbs which includes Mt. Tenglawan,
it’s better to set up base camp at Brgy.
Poblacion and climb Tenglawan from there
rather than from Brgy. Sinacbat. But if you
have luxury of arranging transportation, one
suggestion is to do Tenglawan first and ask
your service to take you to Sinacbat. You can
climb Tenglawan and descend towards
Poblacion. You can either ask your service to
bring your heavy packs to Poblacion or you
can leave it at a secured location which you

Mt. Tenglawan is one of the best places in western Benguet to get a view of the Ilocos coastal lowlands. Just
below its peak, there is a fairly flat stretch where the view to the west is panoramic and unobstructed. You can
view the Amburayan River as it flows to the sea at Tagudin, Ilocos Sur. When you reach its peak, which is a
short narrow ridge running north-south, the view is truly breathtaking. Your naked eye can view the ridges of
Mt. Kabunian, Mt. Lobo, and Mt. Data. Mt. Osdung blocks your view to the South-east but further south you
can see parts of the Halsema reemerge all the way to La Trinidad. Below your feet is spread out the village of
Bakun Poblacion, fairly flat, pastoral with terraces at some distance from the center of the village. Trek from
Tenglawan to Poblacion uses the usual route taken by employees of the Bakun Hydro-electric plant who lives
in Poblacion. Mt. Tenglawan is also considered an enchanted or sacred mountain to the Kan-kanai’s but some
legends considers this as an alter ego of the good Mt. Kabunian- as Mt. Cristobal is to Mt. Banahaw. But I

Created by: Long Henson 2008

 Metropolitan Mountaineering Society

don’t even think of a beautiful place or any other natural environment at that to be negative as they are all
wonderful creations of God. It is home to “Insaking” – king of evil spirits. Locals would point out the summit
face which looks like a half face of a devil. The horn is actually a small peak which has a cross at the top, a
usual challenging side trip at the summit. According to locals, Kabunian and Tenglawan were once in good
terms and lays side by side. A fight between the two resulted in its separation. There are a couple of routes
from Poblacion to Tenglawan. We have tried two different routes going up and down.

HOW TO GET THERE:

Since there are limited trips going to and from Bakun,

arranging transportation options would have significant
impact on the trip itinerary. You have to be very detailed in
ensuring that all transportation requirements are arranged
before the trip and that they would fit in the intended
itinerary. It is also ideal to list alternative options in case of
extended delays.

When commuting, there are buses going directly to Brgy.

Poblacion, Bakun Benguet from La Trinidad Benguet bus
terminal near La Trinidad Public Market. From Baguio, you
can take the FX cabs to La Trinidad. There are several buses
plying this route but all of them depart La Trinidad at
around 7 to 8 AM only. To ensure that you catch this ride,
be there at around 6 AM. These buses also pass by
Ampusongan (Municipal Hall of Bakun), then Dada before
ending the trip at Poblacion. Buses arrives at Ampusongan
around 1:00 PM, then Dada at around 2:00 PM and
Poblacion at around 2:30 PM. I am not sure if there is a
separate trip to Brgy. Sinacbat if your goal is to climb Mt.
Tenglawan from Afar. Seems so near and yet so far…
Tenglawan from there. (2008-Mark S)

An alternative way is to take the buses going to Bontoc. Get off at Sitio Sinipsip, Bakun (along Halsema Hi-
way), and few kilometers after the Philippine Highest Hi-way Marker at Halsema. But from Sinipsip, there are
no regular rides going to Poblacion. You have to make prior arrangements with the local contacts so that
private vehicles can be rented and who will wait for you at Sinipsip. In renting, you can already pre-arrange
inter Barangay transfers (i.e. Dada to Poblacion) and also going back to Brgy. Sinipsip.

Going back to Baguio, buses also leaves Poblacion at around 7 to 8 AM only. You have options of renting
private vehicles from Poblacion but only up to Sinipsip at a steeper cost. Bontoc to Baguio buses passes by
Sinipsip regularly. The only problem with this arrangement is that if you are with a bigger group, it may be
impossible to get that number of spaces from buses passing by Sinipsip. You may need to split your group.

When bringing in your own transport, it is advisable to do this when you have a 4WD vehicle. I was able to
bring a 4X2 Ford Escape on my first time there and although I was able to reach Dada, I tell you I will never do
that again. From Baguio, Sinipsip is around 3-4 hours. From Sinipsip, Brgy. Poblacion is around 2 hours
depending on your off road driving capability. Baguio to Sinipsip portion of Halsema road is already well paved
on 1st class cemented road. Almost entire road from Sinipsip to Brgy. Poblacion is on extremely rough roads,
some portions littered with boulders, the most difficult portions are those steep with loose soil and rocks,
making it difficult for the vehicle to get traction. There are also a lot of steep sections of the road. Few
portions are already cemented, especially on steeper portions of the road.

Here is a list of “must do’s” before the trip:

Created by: Long Henson 2008

 Metropolitan Mountaineering Society

(Note: Bakun is not yet fully develop in terms of accepting tourist especially hikers so their systems, policies and
processes may not be that ideal and may easily change from time to time and on short notices)

1. Contact Bakun Municipal Officials and inform of intended trip. You may be asked to pass by
Ampusongan Municipal Hall for a courtesy call to the PNP Chief and/or Mayor/LGU representatives.
This is a safeguard to your safety. [Mr. Arthur Tolito, Bakun Tourism Officer- +63 915-570-2064/
Norma Alidao, HRMO- +63 915-405-1854].
2. Contact Bakun Police Chief and inform of intended trip. You will need to log here but since it’s out of
the way, you may contact them in advance and request to forgo this process if possible. [Sali Em- +63
2 9162864238].
3. If passing by Dada, contact former Dada Kagawad (Elemia Yubos). You may also arrange your guides
for Mt. Lobo with Kagawad. If you also plan to spend your night at Dada, you may ask Kagawad to
assist you in securing accommodations. She may offer you their school rooms. [Elemia Yubos -
+63 918-731-2145].
4. Contact Poblacion Barangay Hall. Tourism Officer/
Kapitan of Poblacion (Brgy. Capt Lambert Tabao-Ec
last 2007) are the contact person to arrange
guides for Mt. Kabunian and Mt. Tenglawan treks
via Poblacion. If you will stay on the town as your
base camp, you will also need to inform them so
that they can prepare the Barangay Hall as your
accommodation. [Lambert Tabao-Ec +63 920-276-
1121]
5. If renting vehicle arrange transport with Poblacion

Officials.
MMS (L-R) Cary, Jun, Lakay, Long and Mark- bonding
with the locals (Lakay is the husband of Elemia
OTHERS: Yubos) over a bottle of Matador. (2008-Mark S)

1. There are smaller stores in Ampusungan and Dada but the bigger stores are at Poblacion. Better yet,
you should get your supply at Sinipsip prior to entering the rough road. Still they have limited
merchandise so better complete your supplies while in Baguio.
2. Gasoline station is only available at Ampusungan. Other than that, it’s already in Halsema-Atok where
you can have your fill. Note that most gasoline stations, usually the smaller ones sells only diesel fuel.
3. There are small restaurants at Poblacion but you may need to inform them a day before to prepare
the food since they do not regularly serve food since there are no market for prepared foods for the
locals but only on special occasions.
4. Smart and Globe has bad signals on the villages and have intermittent signals on the mountains itself.
5. The Baranagay Hall in Poblacion has better accommodations and can accommodate bigger parties. If
needed be, they can further offer the adjoining public hall for accommodation. The hall has kitchen
and stoves so you can easily prepare your food while staying there. They also have this tourist house
that they rent for 50 Php per person per day including use of gas stove. It is fully furnished with
cooking utensils.
6. As mentioned, tourism is not yet developed here so
there are nuisances like guides littering and not understanding
concepts such as LNT. At the same time, our presence will
have a big impact on them so we have to respect their culture
and ensure that we are properly interacting with them. We
should also avoid as much as possible taking their offers like
foods, etc. as it is not that feasible maintaining it if the volume
of tourists increases. Take note also that they are just
hospitable and their offer may already be at a bigger expense
for them. We can prepare for this by bringing in something to

Centuries old Pine Trees (2008-Mark S)

Created by: Long Henson 2008

 Metropolitan Mountaineering Society

give in return or simply declining their offer or arranging that you compensate them for those offers.
Bottom line is that we should always weigh our actions on what impact it may give to their culture
and their outlook on tourism.
7. Guide fee is around 500-800 per guide per day. They usually require 2 guides per team.
8. All 3 peaks can be day hiked. Given that you can already
carry provisions for day hikes. Of the 3, Kabunian has
ample facilities such as sheds and bunker houses to
accommodate hikers. Kabunian also has two water
sources, the last one a few meters from the summit. If
you would like to spend your night out on the
mountains, its best to do it on Kabunian due to the
aforementioned facilities. But you can also do it on the
2 other mountains. In Kabunian, you can also spend
your night on the summit bunker. Tenglawan has a
spring an hour to/from the summit. Lobo has no water
sources but are near houses and vegetable plantations.

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST/ ALTERNATIVES:

1. On your way to Sinipsip, you will be passing by the

Philippine Highway System Highest Point marker.
th
2. Near the marker is Mt. Timbak, the 8 highest
mountain in the Philippines. You can climb it in 2-3
hours. So you may consider this on your way to Bakun
so your 3 peaks will become 4 peaks.
3. Also near Sinipsip is Mt. Data, another high mountain. Steeper portion of Tenglawan Trail (2008-Mark S)
Near Mt. Data is Mt. Data Hotel.
4. Finally, you can go to Sagada after the climb but it’s still 4 hours from Sinipsip.

SUGGESTED ITINERARY

DAY 1

10:00 – 10:00 ETD Manila to Baguio

DAY 2

04:00 – 05:00 ETA Baguio, ETD for Bakun

09:00 – 10:00 ETA Bakun Poblacion
10:00 – 11:00 Early Lunch
12:00 – 12:30 Start Trek- Mt. Kabunian
15:00 – 15:30 ETA Summit
15:30 – 14:00 Start Descent
17:00 ETD Poblacion

DAY 3

The cross at Tenglawan’s Horn. The one thing you

will think of when you reach this small peak. (2008-
Mark S)

Created by: Long Henson 2008

 Metropolitan Mountaineering Society

05:00 – 06:00 Wake-up Call, Breakfast

06:00 – 06:30 Start Trek to Mt. Tenglawan Kan-kanai Stories
12:00 – 13:00 Lunch on Trail
Part of Kankanay cosmology is the story of how the spirits dwelling on
14:00 – 15:00 ETA Summit
earth actually came from the descendants of two mortal beings,
15:00 – 16:00 Start Descent
Lumawig and Bangan, who were the first creatures on earth. They were
18:00 – 19:00 Dinner on Trail the survivors of a great deluge which occurred thousands of years ago,
21:00 – 22:00 ETA Poblacion and which was caused by Kabunian, who commanded the waters of the
seas to rise, until all the existing land was inundated. The only place
DAY 4 untouched was a mountaintop where Lumawig and Bangan had sought
refuge. After the flood subsided, Kabunian ordered the two to become
husband and wife, so that the earth could be populated again. But
06:00 – 07:00 Wake-up Call, Breakfast
Lumawig and Bangan refused, because they were brother and sister.
07:00 – 07:30 Trip to Dada
They would only do so, they said, if the Supreme Being could make them
07:30 – 08:00 Start Trek to Lobo Summit laugh, and thus the two siblings were tricked into marrying each other.
10:00 – 10:30 ETA Summit, Start Descent Lumawig and Bangan had four children in all. One was given the task of
12:00 – 12:30 ETA Dada performing the cañao. This child's descendants became the Igorot. The
13:00 – 18:00 Travel back to Baguio (or Sagada) second was assigned to weave cloth or abel, and became the ancestor of
18:00 – 20:00 Free Time the Ilocano. The third was given the power of issuing commands, and his
20:00 – 02:00 ETA Manila descendants became known as the "Merkanos." The fourth child was
destined to become a spirit who would inhabit stones and trees, and
became the ancestor of the malevolent spirits whom we know today as
the tumungaw or mangmangkik.

The tumungaw or mangmangkik cause various illnesses, and are also

Photos taken by Mark Santos- (L) , Text by Long Henson-
(R). Photo taken atop Tenglawan. (2008-Mark S)
Long Henson is a member of the Metropolitan Mountaineering
Society. You may contact the group via its website at
www.metropolitanms.org. Long Henson’s e-mail address is
long2@rocketmail.com. This itinerary was based on the summer of
2007and summer of 2008 explorations. Costs, contact persons,
policies changes in time. Author is not responsible for inaccuracies
that these factors may bring.
responsible for typhoons, epidemics, and other calamities. Four spirits
are feared the most: Insaking, Buduan, Kise-an, and Putitik. They inhabit
the big heart-shaped stone on the mountain of Tenglawan. When
displeased, these spirits cause stomachaches in human beings. Other
minor gods and the ailments they bring include the following: liblibayan,
spirits who cause pains in the abdomen; an-antipakao, spirits who create
reddish spots all over the body; penten, spirits who cause accidental
death; kakading, souls of the dead who cause colds, headaches, or fever;
pinad-ing, invisible spirits usually in human form who protect people
from typhoons and epidemics. The liblibayan and an-antipakao spirits
live in sitios where there are people, while the penten inhabit the rivers,
springs, and other water bodies. These spirits react angrily whenever
people trespass on their territory. The malevolent spirits are believed to
be under the sway of a still more powerful and cruel being, known as
Mantis Bilig-the god of death and destruction. On the other side, there
are benevolent spirits, called kading and pinad-ing, whose protection is
sought against ills and misfortunes.
These deities and spirit-beings are invoked by the Kankanay in their rites
and rituals related to life, livelihood, and death. Most if not all of the
rites and rituals are performed by the mambunong who reads from the
bile sac or liver of a sacrificial animal the sentiments or attitudes of the
spirits toward the propitiating or transgressing human being. These are
also female mediums called manggengey. Both mambunong and
manggengey inherit their religious position from parents who were
themselves spiritual leaders. Another hereditary position is that of the
mamade or mamadur (agricultural priest), who can be replaced if the
rituals he performs fail to produce the good harvest prayed for by the
community. Another religious position is that of the balsun, who may be
called upon to perform rituals for a specific occasion or purpose, in
which he is recognized to be most knowledgeable.

Created by: Long Henson 2008