Professional Documents
Culture Documents
We will provide, at no cost to you, sections/section components, hardware, springs/spring components or windows to repair or replace
defective sections, hardware, springs/spring components or windows. All labor costs associated with the removal and reinstallation of any
repaired section/section components, hardware or spring/spring components, and the installation of replacement sections/section
components, hardware, spring/spring components, or windows will be your responsibility. We reserve the right to inspect and/or verify any
claimed defect.
Terms and limitations of the limited warranty are further detailed below:
WE WILL NOT PAY FOR ANY DAMAGES, INCLUDING INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, CAUSED BY OR RESULTING
FROM DEFECTIVE GARAGE DOOR SECTIONS OR HARDWARE. Some states do not allow the exclusion of incidental or consequential
damages, so the above limitation may not apply to you.
Our warranty shall not extend to or cover deterioration due to damage to the garage door caused by fire, an act of God, other accident or
casualty, vandalism, radiation, harmful fumes or foreign substances in the atmosphere, or occurring as a result of any physical damage or the
failure of paint that is not applied per the manufacturer's specifications after the garage door left our factory, or failure to follow all installation
and maintenance instructions. Nor shall our warranty extend to or cover any damages due to normal wear and tear, or claims with respect to
any products that in any way or degree have been altered, processed, misused or improperly handled or installed.
If your garage door does not conform to this warranty, notify us in writing at the following address promptly after discovery of the defect.
Clopay Building Products, Attn: Consumer Services Dept., 101 Miller Road, Russia, Ohio 45363. Additional copies of our installation and
maintenance instructions may be obtained by calling 1-800-225-6729.
WE MAKE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, REPRESENTATIONS, OR COVENANTS, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, WITH RESPECT TO THIS
PRODUCT, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO WARRANTIES, REPRESENTATIONS OR COVENANTS AS TO WORKMANSHIP,
DESIGN, CAPACITY, QUALITY, CONDITION, MERCHANTABILITY, OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE OF THE PRODUCT, EXCEPT FOR
ANY “IMPLIED WARRANTY” AS THAT TERM IS DEFINED IN THE MAGNUSON-MOSS WARRANTY-FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION
IMPROVEMENT ACT, SUCH IMPLIED WARRANTIES TO BE LIMITED IN DURATION TO A PERIOD OF ONE YEAR FROM THE DATE OF
PURCHASE.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights that vary from state to state.
Maintenance/Adjustments/Options
Painting and Windows 28
Maintenance 29
Checking and Adjusting the Door 29
Replacement Parts 29
3
STEP 2 – READ THIS SAFETY INFORMATION
IMPORTANT!
To Protect Yourself From Injury You Must Carefully Read The Following Safety
Information and Warnings Before You Install Or Use Your New Garage Door
You can install your new garage door yourself IF… The center torsion spring assembly uses a wooden pad
that must be of good quality and firmly attached to the
a) you have help (it may weigh up to 800 lbs.); wall. Four 3⁄8" x 3" lag screws should be used to attach
b) you have the right tools and reasonable mechanical wood structure. The wood needs to be made of a Grade
aptitude or experience; and 2 or better Southern Yellow Pine (also known as
Southern Pine or Yellow Pine.) Other acceptable types
c) you follow these instructions very carefully. of wood for this application are beech, birch, hickory,
and oak. The wood must be free of splits and cracks.
Garage doors use springs to balance them. There are Do NOT use wood labeled as Spruce-Pine-Fir (or
two types of springs installed — extension or torsion. SPF). Four 3⁄8" masonry anchors can be used on
Each of these is available in either a standard or EZ- concrete or block walls. If the wood splits once the
Set™ assembly option. Please look at the drawings on torsion spring is in place, it should be replaced by a
page 8 to see which springs your old door has. professional installer. Do not try to remove or repair a
torsion spring assembly or red fasteners once the spring
If your old door uses torsion springs, do not is wound.
attempt to remove the door or the springs yourself.
Have a qualified door repair service remove them. Springs, cables, and bottom fixtures are under strong
Attempting to remove a torsion spring assembly without spring tension. Do not attempt to loosen any
proper training or tools may result in an uncontrolled fasteners on these components. You could suddenly
release of spring forces which can cause serious or release spring forces and risk severe injury.
fatal injury.
If the garage door and/or any of the supporting track are
Only the track specified and supplied with the door damaged, operating the door could be hazardous.
should be used.
Call an authorized representative of the manufacturer or
The brackets at the bottom corners of your garage door professional door repair service promptly.
are under great tension. Do not attempt to loosen any
bracket fasteners except when and as directed in If repairs are ever required to your door, safety and
detail in the following instructions. Otherwise, the trouble-free operation can be best assured by using
bracket could spring out with dangerous force. original replacement parts.
Do not permit children to play beneath or with any Once you have completed the installation of your new
garage door or electric operating controls. garage door, please be sure that your garage complies
with all applicable ventilation requirements before you
In removing a garage door that has extension springs, enclose any vehicles in the garage. Good ventilation
follow the instructions carefully, including the use of “C” avoids fire and health hazards caused by fumes
clamps or locking pliers on both sides of the door in accumulating within a well-sealed garage.
order to keep the door from moving once the springs
are removed. Clopay Building Products Company disclaims all liability
for any installation that is not in compliance with
When installing a door with torsion springs, always use applicable state or county building codes.
solid steel 1/2" x 18" winding bars. Winding bars are
available from many professional door installers. The Doors equipped with automatic door operators can
use of screwdrivers or any substitutes for winding bars cause serious injury or death if not properly adjusted and
will risk severe injury. See page 23 for further safety operated. To ensure safety of these doors:
instructions regarding winding bars.
a) test the sensitivity of the operator’s safety reverse
Keep hands and fingers clear of section joints, track, mechanism monthly;
and other door parts when the door is opening and b) if your door has a pull down rope, you must remove
closing to avoid injury. The lift handles are located for the pull down rope;
safe operation as well as easy use.
c) make sure the door remains unlocked;
Bolts must be installed at the rear end of horizontal d) do not allow children to play with the controls.
tracks. These act to stop the rollers and keep the door
from rolling off the back of the track.
4
STEP 3 – Check Headroom/ Backroom/ Rough Opening = Door Size
Sideroom Backroom = Door Headroom
Height Plus 18” Required
Headroom is the space needed above the top of the door for the
door, the overhead tracks, and the springs. Measure to check
that there are no obstructions in your garage within that space.
The normal headroom space requirement is shown in Table 3-A.
The backroom distance is measured from the back of the door
into the garage, and should be at least 18" more than the height
of the garage door. A minimum sideroom of 3-3/4" should be
available on each side of the door on the interior wall surface
Door
to allow for attachment of the vertical track assembly. The
Height
rough opening should be the same size as the door. (Fig. 3-A)
*About 3" of additional headroom height at the center plus additional backroom is needed to install an automatic garage door opener.
Check door opener instructions.
5
STEP 4 – Removing the Existing Door Removing EZ-Set™ Extension or Torsion
Springs Springs
Step 4-1b: With the door in the DOWN position, position a drill
with a 7/16” socket bit over the worm drive. Using the reverse
(counter-clockwise) direction on the drill, remove all the tension
Garage doors use springs to balance the door weight. There are from the spring (repeat for each side). After spring tension has
two types of springs used — extension and torsion. Each of been removed, detach the lift cables at both ends. Disassemble
these is available in either a standard or EZ-Set™ assembly and remove the springs and cable completely from the door.
option. If your present door uses standard torsion springs, (Fig. 4-C)
do not attempt to remove the door or the springs yourself.
They should be removed by a qualified door service
professional. Attempting to remove a torsion spring assembly
without proper training and tools may result in an uncontrolled
release of spring forces which can cause serious or fatal injury.
Step 4-1a: Raise the door to the full open position. Place “C”
clamps or locking pliers tightly on both sides of the track under
the door so the door is held securely in place. With the door fully
open, most spring tension has been removed. (Fig. 4-A)
Do not attempt to remove or adjust extension springs with door
in the down position. Use “C” clamps to keep the door from
moving or falling once the springs are removed.
Step 4-3: Remove the “C” clamps from the track and carefully
close the door. Some large doors might weigh as much as 500
FIG. 4-B
pounds when the spring tension is removed. The weight of the
door will not be apparent when you first begin to close the door.
The door will feel progressively heavier as it is lowered until its Black Sheave Sheave
Lifting Fork
full weight (as much as 500 pounds) is realized about one foot Housing
Cable
from the floor. A single car door may weigh as much as 200
pounds. (FIG. 4-B)
FIG. 4-C
6
STEP 5 – Removing Door Sections and Track
Step 5-1: The door can now be disassembled. Starting with the
top section, remove the hardware and unstack the sections one
at a time. (Fig. 5-A)
Step 5-2: After all sections have been removed from the
opening, detach all remaining track and hardware from the
jambs. The hangers that attach the rear ends of the overhead
track to the ceiling (called rear track hangers) in many cases can
be reused on the new door if made of 13 gauge (3/32") or
heavier steel and is not loose or unstable. (Fig. 5-B)
Step 6-2: Door stop molding should be temporarily nailed to the FIG. 5-B
edges of the jambs flush with the inside. (Fig. 6-B) Stop molding
featuring a built-in weather seal is offered as an option.
2x6
“Header Jamb”
Opening
Height 2x6
“Side Jamb” 8”
Minimum
Center
Post
(With
Two
3-3/4” Minimum Doors
Side Room Side by
Side)
7
Typical Garage Door Installation Illustration
Right Cable
Center Bearing Plate Horizontal Track
Drum (Black)
Torsion Spring
Torsion Shaft End Bearing
Plate
Left Cable
Drum (Red) Flag Bracket
Top
Roller #3 Hinge
Bracket
Center
Vertical Warning Hinge
Label #2 Hinge
Long Track
Bracket
#1 Hinge
Short Track
Bracket
EZ-SetTM
Winding Unit
* Only torsion springs are available on the Avante door. While the other spring setups are not representative of Avante doors, they are
shown here to help determine the type of spring setup on existing door.
NOTE: The above illustration represents a composite of many of the features found on a variety of garage doors. While not
representative of any one door, it provides a handy reference for the location of specific components
8
Hardware Components
Track Bracket 3 3
8''-18 x 4'' Lg.
(Longer) Carriage Bolt 3
8'' Washer
Track Bracket
(Shorter) Top Bracket Curved
Horizontal Track
Flag
Bracket 3
Cable pin 8'' Hex Nut
(1) Pair
Long Stem
Rollers Cotter pin
(While not representative of any one model, the quantities below can be used as a guide. In some
instances, extra screws/bolts are provided in the event of strip out or loss of parts. Quantities for
doors over 8'0" high may be different, see extended height supplement.)
5 4 Section Doors 10
All Doors 1 x 158''
16''
Pull Rope
Lag Bolt 12
5 Section Doors
#2 Slide
Handle Spacer All Doors 4 All Doors 1
Lock
9
Torsion Spring Hardware Components
(While not representative of any one model, the quantities below can be used as a guide. In some
instances, extra screws/bolts are provided in the event of strip out or loss of parts. Quantities for
doors over 8'0" high may be different, see extended height supplement.)
* Some heavier doors receive a solid shaft and not a torsion tube
10
STEP 7 - Preparing Bottom Door Section
FIG. 7-A
NOTE: Use 2 sawhorses for doors up to and including 10’0” wide
and 3 sawhorses for doors over 10’0” wide
Bottom
Bracket
Step 7-3: Attach the lift cable to the bottom bracket by inserting Pin
the bottom bracket pin through the inside of the bottom bracket,
the looped end of the lift cable, and the outside ear of the bottom Lift
bracket. Secure with cotter pin. (Fig. 7-B for standard door, Fig. Cable
7-C for low headroom door)
Step 7-4: Attach the bottom brackets with (5) 1/4” x 3/4” red-
colored self-drilling screws to the bottom corners of the section.
(Fig. 7-D)
Cotter Pin
FIG. 7-B
Red fasteners must be used for attachment of the bottom
roller brackets. LHR Bracket
Lift Cable End
Stile
Step 7-5: Hinges are identified by number 1, 2, 3 (and higher for Lift Cable
doors over 8’0” high). This number is stamped on the hinge. LHR
Attach a number 1 hinge at each end stile location along the top Bracket
edge of the section using 1/4” x 3/4” self drilling screws. The
number is stamped on the side of the hinge that is to be attached
to the section. (Fig. 7-E)
Key
Roller Location
Cotter Pin
FIG. 7-C
1/4” x 3/4” Red Colored Self Drilling Screws 1/4” x 3/4” Self
Drilling Screws
#1 Hinge
Lift Cable
FIG. 7-D FIG. 7-E
11
STEP 7 - Preparing Bottom Door Section
(Continued) 1/4” Flange Nut Center Hinge
Step 7-6: Attach center hinges to top rail fin using (2) 1/4” x 3/4”
hex head bolts and (2) 1/4” flange nuts at each center stile
location. (Fig. 7-F)
FIG. 7-G
Step 7-7: Install the inside step plate to the bottom rail of the 1/4” x 3/4” Self
section using (2) 1/4” x3/4” self drilling screws. The step plate Drilling Screws Center Stile
should be located at the center stile closest to the horizontal
center of the door width. (Fig. 7-H)
12
Outside Lift Handle Template
13
14
Template and hole locations for
2nd section (vertical) handle
2nd Section
Bottom Section
Template and Handle Hole Locations
Bottom of Door
Template and hole locations for
bottom (horizontal) handle
STEP 8 – Outside Lift Handle Attachment
#10 x 1” Pan
head Sheet
Metal Screw
Bottom Section
Step 8-1: Using the template provided on page 13, mark and drill
(2) 9/64” dia. holes through the front wall of bottom rail of the Handle Stud
bottom section at the center stile closest to the horizontal center
of the door. DO NOT drill all the way through the door section.
9/64” Dia.
Hole
FIG. 8-A
Step 8-3: Place outside lift handle over handle studs. (Fig. 8-B)
Step 8-4: Attach outside lift handle to studs using 3/16” set
screws. Tighten set screws with 3/32” Allen wrench. (Fig. 8-C)
FIG. 8-B
Step 8-7: Place outside lift handle over handle studs. (Fig. 8-B)
Tighten Allen
Wrench
Set Screw
Step 8-8: Attach outside lift handle to studs using 3/16” set
screws. Tighten set screws with 3/32” Allen wrench. (Fig. 8-C) FIG. 8-C
15
STEP 9 – Installing Door Sections
Step 9-1: Place the section in the opening so that it is against
the stop molding and centered from side to side. Place a level on
the section and use a piece of wood under one end or the other
(if necessary) to make the section level. (FIG. 9-A)
Stop Molding
Step 9-2: Remove the level and drive a 3” nail in the jambs at
each end and bend it over the edge of the section to hold the
section in place. (FIG. 9-B)
NOTE: These nails are all that will hold the stacked door section
in place until the tracks are secured to the back jambs. Be sure
the nails hold the sections firmly in position.
Step 9-3: With the Table 9-A below, determine the order in
which you will attach the remaining sections.
Table 9-A - Section Order for Various Door Heights FIG. 9-A
Door Section #
Height 1 (BTM) 2 3* 4 5 6
6’0” 24” 24” 24” - - -
6’3” 21” 18” 18” 18” - -
6’6” 21” 18” 18” 21” - -
6’6” 21” 21” 18” 21” - -
6’9” 21” 21” 21” 21” - -
7’0” 24” 21” 21” 21” - -
7’3” 24” 21” 21” 24” - -
7’6” 24” 24” 21” 24” - -
7’9” 24” 24” 24” 24” - -
8’0” 21” 21” 18” 18” 21” -
8’3” 21” 21” 21” 18” 21” -
8’6” 21” 21” 21” 21” 21” -
8’9” 24” 21” 21” 21” 21” -
9’0” 24” 21” 21” 21” 24” -
9’3” 24” 24” 21” 21” 24” -
9’6” 24” 24” 24” 21” 24” - FIG. 9-B
9’9” 24” 24” 24” 24” 24” -
10’0” 21” 21” 21” 18” 21” 21”
10’6” 21” 21” 21” 21” 21” 21”
¼” x ¾” Self
10’9” 24” 21” 21” 21” 21” 21”
Tapping Screws
11’0” 24” 21” 21” 21” 21” 24”
11’3” 24” 24” 21” 21” 21” 24”
11’6” 24” 24” 24” 21” 21” 24”
11’9” 24” 24” 24” 24” 21” 24”
12’0” 24” 24” 24” 24” 24” 24”
* Section with general safety label.
Step 9-4: Place the next section face down on the saw horses.
Identify the bottom edge as shown in the illustration. (FIG. 9-C)
Attach a number 2 hinge to each end at the top edge using #2 Hinge
1/4” x3/4” self-drilling screws. Remember that the number Bottom Edge
is stamped on the side of the hinge that is to be attached to End Stile
the section. (FIG. 9-C)
FIG. 9-C
Step 9-5: Attach center hinge(s) to top rail fin at each center stile
location using 1/4" x 3/4" bolts and 1/4" flange nuts. If the
section requires an aluminum angle, attach to top rail fin (FIG.
7-F & FIG. 7-G, page 12).
16
STEP 9 - Installing Door Sections
(Continued)
Step 9-7: Place the second section on top of the first section.
Drive a 3” nail in the jambs at each end and bend it over the
edges of the section to hold the section in place. Attach the
hinges from the top of the first section to the bottom of the
second. (FIG. 9-D) Safety
Label
Step 9-8: Place the third section face down on the saw horses.
Identify the bottom edge as shown in the illustration. (FIG. 9-E)
Step 9-10: Place the third section on top of the other sections
and nail in place as before. Attach the hinges from the top of
the previous section to the bottom of this section. (FIG. 9-D)
If you have multiple sections left, repeat Steps 9-7 and 9-9 using
#4 or higher number hinges on the end of the top edge and
center hinges to all other stiles along the top edge. #3 Hinge
Bottom Edge
Step 9-11: The reinforcing aluminum angle should now be End Stile
attached to top rail with a 1/4" x3/4”: self-drilling screws at each
center stile. FIG. 9-E
Step 9-12: Place the last section on the saw horses. Attach the
top roller brackets as shown. The top roller brackets are to be Aluminum
attached with two (low headroom doors) or four (standard lift Angle ¼” x ¾” Self Tapping Screws
doors) 1/4” x3/4” self drilling screws. The bottom of the bracket (If Required)
goes 6-1/4” down from top of section. (FIG. 9-F for standard
doors, FIG. 9-G for low headroom doors)
NOTE: The top bracket should be fastened to the top rail and
end stile as shown.
Step 9-13: Place a roller in the top and bottom brackets and in
End Stile
the tubes in each of the hinges at the ends of each section. The 6-1/4”
long stem roller is used in bottom bracket. Some hinges have
two tubes. Place the roller in the tube that is farthest from the
face of the door. (FIG 9-H) Standard
Top Bracket
LHR Top
Bracket
17
STEP 10 - Reinforcing the Top Section Horizontal
for Opener Punched Angle
Do NOT install the bracket supplied with the opener. NOTE: Operator may be attached up to 2 feet off center.
Failure to reinforce the door, as illustrated, will void your (Doors with Torsion Springs Only)
warranty.
Odd Stiles under 12’ Wide Doors Even Stiles under 12’ Wide Doors
Punched Angle
Punched Angle
Punched Angle
For Operator Draw
¼” x ¾” Self Bar Attachment Punched
Tapping Screws Angle
Punched Angle
¼” x ¾” Self ¼” x ¾” Self
Tapping Screws Tapping Screws
Punched Angle
FIG. 10-B FIG. 10-D
Required materials: Required materials:
(1) 18”, 21” or 24” and (1) 48” length of iron, (2) 18”, 21” or 24” and (1) 27” or 50” length of iron,
(6) ¼” x ¾” self-tapping screws. (5) ¼” x ¾” self-tapping screws,
(2) ¼” x ¾” bolts and nuts.
Odd Stiles over 12’ Wide Doors Even Stiles over 12’ Wide Doors
Aluminum Angle
Punched Angle
Aluminum Angle
For Operator
Draw Bar
Attachment Punched
¼” x ¾” Self Angle
Tapping Screws
Punched Angle
¼” x ¾” Self ¼” x ¾” Self
Tapping Screws Tapping Screws
Punched Angle
FIG. 10-C FIG. 10-E
Required materials: Required materials:
(1) 18”, 21” or 24” length of iron and (1) 48” aluminum angle, (2) 18”, 21” or 24” length of iron and (1) 27” or 50” aluminum angle,
(6) ¼” x ¾” self-tapping screws. (5) ¼” x ¾” self-tapping screws,
(2) ¼” x ¾” bolts and nuts.
18
STEP 11 – Assembling and Installing
the Vertical Track
1/4" Flange Top View Wall
Before assembling brackets to vertical track be sure to read Nut Left Side Side
Step 11-1 and Step 11-2. Refer to illustration for placement of
brackets on track.
19
NOTE: Pressure-treated lumber purchased after January 2004 is
treated with chemicals that have highly corrosive effects on
metal fasteners. The fasteners provided with your door are
intended for use with standard lumber (not pressure-treated)
only. If you are installing your door into an opening framed with
Horizontal Angle
pressure-treated lumber purchased after January 2004, two
items must be changed: 1) 5/16" x 1-5/8" lag screws with a
minimum galvanization equivalent to G185 must be purchased
for this application, and 2) to prevent potential corrosion between
lumber and track/spring components, paint either the surface of
the pressure-treated lumber or those surfaces of the track and
spring components that come in contact with the pressure- Horizontal Track
treated lumber.
Step 12-2: Temporarily support the rear end of the track with Horizontal
a rope from the trusses overhead in the garage or on a tall Track
ladder. (FIG. 12-B)
Vertical
Step 12-3: Place the track over the roller in the top bracket.
Track
Attach the curved end of the horizontal track to the flag
bracket with two 1/4" x 5/8" track bolts and 1/4" flange nuts
so that the heads of the screws are on the inside of the track.
The horizontal and vertical track must join together to form FIG. 12-B
a continuous channel for the rollers. Attach the end of the
horizontal angle to the top of the flag bracket with a 3/8” x 3/4”
carriage bolt and 3/8” hex nut. Use the top set of slots for 15”
radius track, the middle set of slots for 12” radius track, and the
bottom set of slots for Low Headroom track. (FIG. 12-C) Horizontal Angle
3/8” x 3/4"
Step 12-4: Rear track hangers need to be made at this time. Carriage
Use 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" punched angle, 13 gauge or 3/32" steel. Bolt 12” Radius
These are not provided with the standard hardware. They Track
are used to attach the rear of the horizontal track to the
ceiling joist.
Bolt Blocks
Step 12-5: Placement of rear track hangers is critical for the Door Travel
door to operate properly. The rear track hangers should hold
the horizontal track level and square to the door. Squareness
should be measured by comparing two diagonal distances: 1)
the distance from the top left-hand corner of the door to the
rear of the right-hand horizontal track and 2) the distance from FIG. 12-D
the top right-hand corner of the door to the rear of the left-hand
horizontal track. (FIG. 12-E, opposite page)
20
Step 12-6: Continued: Adjust the position of the tracks if
the squareness distances are not within 1/2" of each other.
Horizontal track can be out of level up to 1" from front jamb to
rear track hanger. (FIG. 12-E)
When the track is square and level with the opening, the track
hangers can be fastened permanently to the ceiling trusses.
Three 5/16" x 1-1/2" lag screws are recommended. Be sure
3/16" pilot holes are drilled before installing 5/16" lag screws.
The attachment must be strong enough to hold the weight of
the door.
FIG. 12-E
Step 12-7: With the track installed, the top door section can
now be properly adjusted. With the slide on the top bracket
loose, force the top of the door against the stop molding or Top Roller Slide
door jamb. Pull the roller towards you so it is tight against the Bracket
groove in the track and tighten the slide bolts. (FIG. 12-F)
At this time, remove the 3" nails that were used to hold
sections in place prior to installation of the track assembly.
(Refer back to FIG. 9-B.)
FIG. 12-F
The slide bolt rests against the top of one of the rectangular
engaging slots in the vertical track. Proper alignment is easier
to achieve by using track as a guide.
FIG. 13-A
NOTE: It may be necessary to knock out the slug in the vertical
track to open the slot for lock engagement. Remove slug by
striking with a hammer from the outside of the track.
21
STEP 15 – Standard Torsion Spring
Installation
Use for 15”
Radius Track
Torsion springs can be very dangerous if they are Use for 12”
improperly installed or mishandled. Do not attempt to install Radius Track
them yourself unless 1) you have the right tools and
reasonable mechanical aptitude or experience and 2) you
follow these Instructions very carefully. FIG. 15-A
Materials Required for Torsion Spring Installation:
1. Two 9/16" box wrenches
2. 7/16" socket wrench
3. Two 1/2" diameter, 18" long cold rolled solid steel 3/8” x 3/4” Carriage Bolt
winding bars (NOTE: Winding bars are available at (2 Places)
most hardware stores)
5/16” x 1-5/8”
4. Locking pliers
Lag Screw
5. Wood Anchor Pad
Step 15-1: Fasten the bottom of the end bearing plate to the
horizontal angle with (2) 3/8" x 3/4" long hex head bolts and hex 3/8” Flange Nut
nuts. Important: The bottom of the end bearing plate is identified 3/8” x 3/4" Long
by two parallel rows of two slots. Make sure to use the bottom Hex Head Bolt
two slots for 12" radius horizontal track, and the upper two slots
for 15" radius horizontal track (FIG. 15-A).
FIG. 15-B
Step 15-2: Fasten the wall flange on the end bearing plate to the
wood jamb with (1) 5/16" x 1-5/8" long lag screw. Drill 3/16" pilot
holes where lag screws are to be installed. On 12" radius
horizontal track, each end bearing plate should also be attached
with 3/8" x 3/4" carriage bolts and 3/8" nuts (FIG. 15-B).
Step 15-3: If door has solid steel shaft in two sections skip to
Step18-1. Measure from top of door to center of end bearing.
Use this measurement, draw a line at the same height for shaft
location and mount 2"x 6" wood jambs in center of doorway.
(FIG. 15-C) Important: The wood anchor pad must be made of Measure This
a Grade 2 or better southern yellow pine (also known as Distance
southern pine or yellow pine). Other acceptable types of wood
for this application are beech, birch, hickory, and oak. The wood
must be free of splits and cracks. Do not use wood labeled as
spruce pine fir (or SPF).
FIG. 15-C
NOTE: Each side jamb and the center anchor pad should extend
12" above the top of the opening for 12" radius horizontal track
and 15" above the top of the opening for 15" radius horizontal
track.
Step 15-4: Attach the wood anchor pad to the frame of the
garage with at least four 3/8" x 4" long lag screws for wooden
frames or four 3/8" x 4" long sleeve anchors for concrete frames.
(one at each corner). The four fasteners must be installed no
closer than 1-1/2" from the sides and the ends of the anchor pad.
These fasteners must be embedded into the frame of the
garage, not the drywall or sheet rock. The wood anchor pad and
fasteners are not supplied. Do not use nails.
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Stationary
Cone
Lock the door in the down position securely using door lock
or locking pliers. This must be done to prevent the door Winding Cone
from prematurely opening which could cause an injury.
FIG. 15-E
Spring anchor bracket secures the springs to the wall. You
must fasten securely with red-colored fasteners. Never
remove spring anchor bracket when springs are wound.
Center Bearing Plate
Step 15-6: With an assistant, lift the complete torsion spring tube
assembly and slide the ends of the tube into the bearing on the
end bearing plates. With the tube level, mount the center bearing
plate to the center anchor pad using (2) 5/16" x 1-5/8" red-
headed lag screws. Drill 3/16” pilot hole for each lag screw.
Important: These pilot holes must be no closer than 1-1/2" from
the sides and ends of the wood anchor pad.
23
1/2" Dia. 18” Solid
Steel Winding Bars
NEVER use screwdrivers or other substitutes for winding
bars! Stand to side of bars. Be sure to insert the bars all the
way into the hole.
Step 15-9: Check for a straight line drawn across the length of
the spring(s). If no line is present, draw one using a piece of
chalk. This will be used to indicate the number of turns on the
spring(s).
Step 15-10b: After inserting the two winding bars all the way into
the winding cone, wind the springs 1/4 turn at a time in an
downward direction (FIG. 15-H). The number of turns is shown in
table 15-10. Secure each spring with the set screws on the
winding cone. (Caution: Set screws should be turned from ¾ to
one full turn after they have made contact with the tube.) On
doors with two springs, each spring should be wound the same
number of turns. Remove the locking pliers.
Step 15-11: Unlock the door, slowly raise the door and prop it NEVER adjust center bearing plate or red-colored fasteners
about halfway open. after springs are wound. Be prepared to handle a strong
force when reducing tension on a torsion spring. Use
winding bars only, and stand to the side.
This is the first time the new door is being opened. If the
tracks are not correctly aligned or the back hangers are not
strong enough, the door may fall. Proceed slowly and
carefully.
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STEP 16 – Solid Steel Shaft Torsion Spring
Wood Anchor Pads (2x6)
Installation
Step 16-1: Measure from top of door to center of end bearing.
Use this measurement, draw a line at the same height for shaft
location and mount both 2"x 6" wood jambs. (FIG. 16-A)
Important: The wood anchor pad must be made of a Grade 2 or
better southern yellow pine (also known as southern pine or
yellow pine). Other acceptable types of wood for this application
are beech, birch, hickory, and oak. The wood must be free of
splits and cracks. Do not use wood labeled as spruce pine fir
(or SPF).
FIG. 16-A
Step 16-2: Attached the wood anchor pad to the frame of the Black
garage with at least four 3/8" x 4" long lag screws for wooden Cable
frames or four 3/8" x 4" long sleeve anchors for concrete frames. Drum
Left
(one at each corner). The four fasteners must be installed no Wound
closer than 1-1/2" from the sides and the ends of the anchor pad. Spring
These fasteners must be embedded into the frame of the
garage, not the drywall or sheet rock. The wood anchor pad and Coupler
fasteners are not supplied. Do not use nails. FIG. 16-B
Step 16-3: Slip onto one section of solid steel shaft the coupler,
a spring anchor bracket, left winding torsion spring, black
winding cone, and the black cable drum. The set screws on the
drums face the springs. (FIG. 16-B)
Step 16-4: Insert solid shaft key into coupler and tighten the two Set Screws
set screws. (FIG. 16-C)
Coupler
Step 16-5: Slip onto the other section of tubing red cable drum,
red winding cone, right wound spring, and spring anchor bracket.
Solid Shaft Key
The set screws on the drums face the springs. (FIG. 16-D)
FIG. 16-C
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Step 16-8: Connect the spring(s) to the corresponding bearing
Center Bearing Plate
plate by (2) 3/8” x 1” hex bolts and nuts for single springs or (2)
3/8” x 1-5/8” hex bolts and nuts for double springs. (FIG. 16-E)
Step 16-9: Slide both red and black cable drums against end
bearings, insert solid shaft keys, and tighten set screws. The set
screws on the cable drum should be tightened with a 3/8" box
wrench.
Step 16-10: Bring up cable between the wall and roller shafts to
the cable drum. Attach cable by placing in the notch on the
cable drum. Turning the cable drum to remove the cable slack. 3/8” Hex
Make sure the cable follows the grooves in the cable drum. Nuts
Clamp locking pliers shaft and against header to maintain
tension on the cable. This procedure should be repeated on the
opposite side.
Step 16-11: Bolt shaft coupler together with the other two set 3/8” x1-5/8”
screws. Hex Head Bolts
Important: Return to Step 15-9 (Pg. 24) to finish installation. FIG. 16-E
Step 17-3: Slide cable drums onto both ends of tube on outside
of bearing plate, the red drum on the left, and black drum on the
right. The set screws on the drums facing outwards.
Important: Return to Step 15-7 (pg. 23) to finish installation.
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STEP 18 – Attaching an Automatic Opener
IMPORTANT: To avoid damage to your door, you must
reinforce the top section of the door in order to provide a
mounting point for the opener to be attached. Refer to the
section of this manual titled Reinforcing the Top Section on
page 18 for specific instructions. Failure to reinforce the door
as illustrated will void the warranty on your door.
Opener Arm Attachment To Horizontal Angle Or Strut Opener Arm Attachment To Vertical Angle
Opener Arm
Horizontal
Punched
Angle
3/8” x
1-1/2”
Hex Bolt
3/8”
Hex Nut
Punched
Angle Horizontal Angle 60 degrees Vertical
Or Strut Opener Arm Punched
Angle
27
Painting your Door Glass Replacement
Paint: Your garage door can be painted with a high quality, IMPORTANT: Do not try to replace glass yourself.
100% acrylic latex (flat, satin, or semi-gloss) exterior grade paint.
If glass should need replacement, please contact an authorized
NOTE: Do not use oil-based paint. Using oil-based paint will professional dealer. For the location of the authorized
void the warranty on the door. professional dealer, please write or call:
Cleaning: Before painting your door, it must be free of dirt, oils,
chalk, waxes and mildew. The preprinted surfaces can be Clopay Building Products
cleaned of dirt, oils, chalk and mildew with a diluted solution of Consumer Services Dept.
trisodium phosphate. Trisodium phosphate is available over the 101 Miller Rd.
counter at most stores under the name SOILAX, in many laundry Russia, OH 45363 USA
detergents without fabric softener additives, and in some general
purpose content. Check the label for trisodium phosphate Call Toll Free: 1-800-225-6729
content. The recommended concentration is 1/3 cup of powder Hours of Operation (ET):
to 1-1/2 to 2 gallons of water. After washing the door, always Monday – Friday, 8:30 AM – 7 PM
rinse well with clear water and allow to dry. Saturday 8:30 AM – 5 PM.
If the door has ever been waxed, the wax must be removed
before painting. Doors are not waxed during the manufacturing
process. The wax can be removed by wiping door surface with a
rag saturated with Xylene (Xylol), available at most paint or
hardware stores. Wiping should be done at moderate pressure
and Xylene must not be allowed to sit on the door for an
extended time. Damage to your door’s paint system can occur if
over exposed to this or other solvents.
28
Annual Maintenance Cleaning the Door
1) Lubricate all moving parts of the door with light In order to prevent damage caused by foreign matter adhering to
household oil, including: the door, the door should be cleaned at least twice a year (normal
a. Lift cables at the bottom bracket button environments) or 4 times a year (coastal environments). The
b. Bearing of the sheaves door may need to be cleaned more frequently if road salt
c. Lock hardware where surfaces turn or slide accumulates in a winter climate. The door should be wiped down
d. Full length of torsion spring to reduce friction with a mild household detergent and rinsed with clean water.
between coils
e. Steel rollers. NOTE: Be sure to clean behind stop molding on the side and top
of door.
2) Check for loose or bent hinges.
a. Tighten screws on loose hinges. Waxing the Door
b. Straighten or replace bent hinges.
(Costal and Harsh Environments)
Caution: To replace bent hinge(s) or broken roller(s): For coastal and harsh environments, it will be necessary to wax
the front side of the door following installation. Select a good
Door must be locked and in the down position. quality car wax and apply according to wax manufacturer’s
instructions. Wax should be applied at least twice a year,
No more than one hinge is to be removed from the door at any immediately after cleaning (see cleaning instructions above).
given time.
Glass and Acrylic Windows Cleaning and
3) Check roller for broken wheels, bent shafts, or worn out Care Instructions
bearings.
Clean with a mild solution of a dishwashing detergent and a
4) Check the door and track supports for loose or missing soft cloth. After, cleaning, rinse thoroughly. DO NOT use
bolts, screws, etc. Be careful not to over tighten. any ammoniated, abrasive, or solvent-based cleaners of any
kind.
5) Check for bent track. If bent, call an authorized
professional dealer. NOTE: Minor scratches or scuffs are not considered defects and
will not be covered under window warranty.
6) Repairs to torsion spring hardware; including springs,
cables and bottom brackets; should be made by a
qualified door technician or a mechanically experienced Replacements Parts
person with proper tools and instructions. Replacement parts are available from an authorized professional
dealer or a building supply retailer. When ordering repair parts,
always provide the following: part name, model number, and door
width and door height (W x H). For the location of the authorized
professional dealer or a building supply retailer nearest you,
please write or call:
29