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Awarded THE TITLE
European Destination
of Excellence 2008.
the
land
OF
CROSSROADS
“ I wouldn’t call myself a globetrotter. But, mate, I was a corker in
the few places I reached. Everybody said this happened because
I hadn’t visited others, but I know I chose them carefully. And they
sure were a beauty.

Romania is one of them. A wonderful country with tall poppies

and as “Edenish” as a place on Earth can be. There are, of course,
good things an’ crooks too, as everywhere. I remember the first
time I learned how to greet people. In Romanian it’s “buna ziua”
for “G’day”; I know, already a cliché, the tourist arrives in a new
country and learns a few words only to boast in front of his friends.
But this was not my case. That was the way I felt it. I don’t really
know why, but those words felt so clucky.

The Land of Fagaras is a wide area, part of Brasov County,

situated in the middle of the country. Arriving there, everything
I had discussed with my German mate who was born in that area,
proved to be dead set. That was the place where the true life of a
village still preserved an amazing folk culture. Even if I tested my
camera on all the monuments I encountered, more than enough,
over 900 actually, the area means much more than that and I was
stoked.Well-kept customs, folk festivals where everyone can come

“
if they know when to book the flight, kind-hearted people and
gorgeous scenery.
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what
a small
land
is hiding
“ While I was on the bus, heading for Fagaras, a group of dag old, well-
meaning ladies convinced me of the almost magical features of a
cave that was inhabited in the past by orthodox monks, that carved
two small churches into the rock and held their divine service there
for hundreds of years. The place, called “The Temple of Fates”, was
a bottler, but nothing supernatural ever occurred to my mind.
The villagers are cobbers, especially if you are from abroad, so
they started telling me about some pyramidal structures I could
find in a neighboring village. I knew it was about another kind
of “Egyptians”, so I headed towards the mentioned place,
near Sona. The exact location can’t be found on a map, but, with
a little help from the local people, one can easily get there. The
That was until the moment I saw the pictures I took inside the cave: “Pyramids” were in fact several medium hills, the tallest was
exactly as the locals were telling, there were some semi-transparent higher than a 4-storey building. I would rapidly associate them
and vague spheres on the film, invisible to the eye. The stories about with some tumuli or barrows, mounds over a grave in some Asian
the positive energies the temple had influenced me as well. I have or European cultures. Squizzin’ from far away they look like lonely
no idea if there was any selfsuggestion or divine intervention, hills and you start to feel small and to understand the splendor
but I felt completely recovered and fully energized after some of a gone away culture only when you arrive at their bottom. And
time spent in the centre of the cave, under a cupola generating more than ever you are grinning like a shot fox to be alive. So you
a kind of pyramid effect. Afterwards I climbed the hill only to start climbing the artificial mountain in a hurry. I found it difficult

“
discover another religious shelter, an Orthodox Monastery, and to arrive there after I slipped in some fox holes. From above,
entered its gates to see the monks that lived there. the entire horizon seems at hand.

The Temple of Fates is a
construction which had a prior
function of a religious site,
and is said to be almost 7000
years old. Its location is near
the village Sinca Veche, under
the Plesu hill. It is made up
of several religious chambers
and altars with strange
sculptures among which the
Star of David or the Yin and
Yang symbol. It was dug in
a rock formed of quartz and
silicium sand and it is believed
to have mystical powers.
In 2005, the Sinca Veche
settlement has been restored
and is once again visited
by tourists. Also, on the
hill nearby an Orthodox
Monastery has beed built.
The “Pyramids” in the
village Sona are pyramidal
formations, about 20-30
metres high, built on a soil
terrace. Although they were
submitted to several thorough
archaeological researches

their origin hasn’t been
elucidated so far. At first
sight they can be compared
to Celtic or Scythian tumuli
but no one knows if they had
the same funerary function.
The villagers often talk about
5
different paranormal events
going on near the pyramids
and also tell a legend of their
formation. Similar pyramids,
though not as well preserved
are found in other villages,
Halmeag and Bunesti.
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centuries
of
inventivity

“ After visiting Sona, I needed to see people, to go off. I had to get rid
of the feeling of loneliness I had there, not to drink with the
flies. Only a few kilometers up into the mountains, “Samabata de
Jos” shelters the biggest and most exquisite “Lipizzan” horse farm
in Europe. These are some frames I had to have on my camera. The
“Lipizzan” breed is part of the European cultural heritage and the
From Sambata de Sus I headed towards Lisa, another village that
preserved a strong tradition, where, I was told by a bus driver, I
would find the spectacular things I was looking for and I would get
some great pictures. Too right...in most parts! A traditional centre,
named “At the Whirlpools” sheltered a complex hydraulic/
water system. This was used to produce and process woolen
performances of the people at Sambata are well-known all around fabrics and it was almost a century old. What gobsmacked me
the World. The horse shelter is near the “Bruckenthal” Castle built the most was that in areas holding such up-to -date technologies

“
by Johannes Bruckenthal in 1874. The farm is open to visitors, and having all facilities of a modern city one could find such well-
there are some nice shows with experienced horse breakers preserved proofs of the past.
and also some very pleasant carriage trips/rides. I couldn’t help
getting in such a carriage and it was totally worthing the
zacks because the farm also holds mapped out woods specially
planned for such trips.

The Lipizzan is the most
ancient European modern
breed which has a more than
400 years old history. The
farm in Sambata de Sus is the
biggest in Europe and shelters
over 300 stallions.
The Lipizzan breed is part of
the European cultural heritage,
originating from Lipizza,
near Trieste, from where it
was brought in Austria in
1580. The farm in Sambata
has European standard
equipment, training and
keeping the Lipizzan horses at
levels of performance known
worldwide. The complex is
open to visitors.
“At the Whirlpools” is one
of the three traditional, still
functional stations which uses
water power; it is located in
the village Lisa, near Sambata
de Sus. Moreover, this plant is
the only one used to process

sheep wool. The three stations
that survived are part of an
older hydraulic system built
in the 19th century by the
villagers, by means of which
they “put evil to work”.
7
In 2000, the complex was
restored and introduced in the
touristic circuit as a museum;
nowadays it still is a functional
workshop.
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between the sky
and the earth,
two worlds
live together
“ I don’t miss my laptop. Not even the crowded supermarket or a day
at the Mall. Here, time stands still. For the people, everything
they do makes a certain sense, far beyond the moolah. Here is the
land where everything means more than you can see. Charms,
rituals, chants, superstitios or curses still have their place in a
present time that wishes to forget them. Here is the land where
One can still find out some of the old generations’ secrets even if
they became more solitary because they are no longer in touch
with the new generations. I talked to an old woman who was
sitting on an old bench, in front of her house. We yabbed with
the help of her third-grade nephew who spoke English pretty well.
I told her I wanted to hear magic words. The old lady began to say
people chase away bad spirits by using plants. The land where the charm in her own language but I soon lost the words. I couldn’t

“
one can no longer believe in magic and go to church at the same understand a thing but I was aware that a great mystery was going
time. The land where the third day after their birth, little babies on right in front of my eyes.
are visited by fates who predict their future and where young girls
put basil on their breast and tell charms to make lads fall in love
with them.

“The burning wheel” is a
custom practised b y the boys
of the village; it takes place at
Shrovetide, before Easter. It is
in fact an open trial of those
who didn’t observe the rules
of the community.
The feast of the Ploughman
is a traditional custom which
is held every year at Orthodox
Easter time. The origin of this
custom is linked to magical
beliefs, prior to Christianity.
The festival of the Lipizzan the Fortress of Fagaras at the
horse: After the Assumption end of August.
of Mary (August, 15th) all the
owners of a Lipizzan horse
from the Land of Fagaras
prepare for this special event
which is generally held near
 9
The feast of bread is an and various kinds of bread can
event specific to the area of be tasted.
Sambata de Sus and is based
on the popular significance
of the bread. All the tools
traditionally used at baking
the bread can be seen here
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back
to
THE
Origins
“ On the first night I had to choose between sleeping in the open,
on a woolen rug bought at “The Whirlpools”, or spending the
night at a pension. I chose the latter and it was ace, especially
after I hadsome turps, namely several glasses of palinka/fire-
After that, all that’s left is the distinct taste of home-made bread
with veggies from one’s own garden and the most delicious pork
bacon I ever tasted. I can’t help remembering the taste of that
red onion from Fagaras: I still feel some tears in my eyes but

“
water offered by the host. It might be fun to sleep at a pension not because it was too spicy but because the taste was pretty
in a village. I split wood, for the first time in my life I milked a spiffy.
cow, and my Patagonia boots had a gas bath while I was trying
to start a camp fire. I also made butter out of milk: in a large
pot the milk is skimmed with a wooden spoon until it becomes
butter; I’ve skimmed it for the first 5 minutes, and the host
for the last 40. But the cart ride was above all. We rode in big
carts loaded with hay and with large logs or fresh Lucerne. I wasn’t
turned down by any villager I even got to hold the bridles for a
while. I couldn’t though use the whip. I had more guts when I had
to ”beat” the fresh bread just taken out of the oven. The bread
is “beaten” with a short wooden stick until all the burnt crust falls.

Accomodation: Comfortable
households, hospitable
people, gifted craftsmen, all
lend huge touristic potential
to the Land of Fagaras. In
the villages, various services
are offered in the peasants’
households; meals, tourist
guidance, initial training for
various traditional handicrafts
(painting eggs, glass painting),
participation in traditional
customs, fairs, singing
Christmas Carols, folk-festivals
or religious celebrations. Since Sambata de Sus, Berivoi,
they are not introduced in Breaza, Harseni, Sebes sau
any tourist circuits yet, these Dejani.
places can be discovered by
simply asking the villagers but
you can easily find pensions
most of them located in
 11
Transylvanian cuisine
resembles the villagers: it is
simple and healthy. You should
try mais polenta, stuffed
cabbage leaves, vegetable
spread among the other
gastronomic delights of the area.
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where “go wild”
is not just
a way
of speaking
“ My host invited me to a cattle fair “to see how things slog here”.
Everything could be sold and bought around here from geese to
horses, from brooms to harnesses. That’s when I remembered my
comfy seat in the rented SUV and I decided to change it for a while
with a horse saddle. I admit, I first thought of that when I saw
a Romanian excellent movie with and about cowboys. It wasn’t
That’s what happened when I felt like trying something more
extreme. You can go hiking from Sambata de Sus on the whole
northern part of the Fagaras Mountains. There are quite many huts
for shelter as Podragu, Urlea, Valea Sambetei or Arpas and the
route is varied and spectacular. You can do almost anything linked
to mountains climbing and if this isn’t enough, there are a lot of
long until I was in the saddle as the pension I was staying at had its pensions in the valley which have ATVs or snowmobiles. I drove

“
own herd. … and then again on the ground with some bruises. the ATV until I had no breath left but I had to choose off-road
routes as villagers aren’t larriking the noise.
This is what happenes if you choose not to listen to the manager.
The equestrian program is very strict and starts from the scratch,
with beginners lessons and then with some rides in the surrounding
area. I got a spirited horse but I soon learned how to bridle it.
Bravery replaces fear when you are bitten by the wind and you
enjoy freedom more than ever.

Horse riding is part of the
services offered in private
pensions and farms. It can be
taken up by beginners and
practiced on various routes.
The mountaineous region
of the Land of Fagaras is
varied and you can find a large
range of mountain routes;
here tourists can go mountain
climbing, hiking, practice photo-
hunting and winter sports.
Balea is a glaciar lake situated
in the Fagaras Mountains. It is
the favourite place of mountain
lovers and especially for those
ptacticing extreme sports. It
is the ideal place for heli-ski,
gliding, skiing and others.
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the past
is tall
and has
thick walls
“ When I decided to become a journo, I was still preparing for the
exam at the Arhitecture University by drawing compositions,
buildings and portraits. So I couldn’t stop noticing that almost
every village I passed through had a fortified church.
The Saxons came here by royal order bringing over a special
architectural style. I only moved my camera off the clocks in the
what was there behind the ruins, I reached the Fagaras fortress that
shelters a modern, acclimatized museum and where a thorough
guide told gave me good oil.

The land of Fagaras is an area that offers very much to the

towers whenever I spotted the storks that had their nests on the
poles in the streets. I only entered a few and everytime I was
able to visit them, I found them really surprising. I had to ask
everybody for the key holder and everytime an old Saxon came
from inside a house next to the church, holding the keys. I didn’t
need a guide at the Cistercian Convent in Carta because the
traveller and never expects to get anything back. I felt an endless
devotion from both men and nature when I walked along and
across it. Everything out here is an adventure, more than even in
the Australian Outback. A continuous discovery of some traditions
and people, which by means of their complexity, prove to have
been here for a long time and plan to stay quite as long.

“
church was ruined more than a half. I could however see what I for sure will come back next year, there’s still so much to be
had been well preserved and imagine myself being an ancient revealed.
knight walking by the high, early Gothic arches of the church.
And because from a certain moment on I felt the need of knowing

The museum of popular
costumes in Copaceni was set
up some years ago and it looks
like a peasant household
specific for the area.
The Fagaras fortress was
turned into a fortified castle
in the 16th century and it
became a princely residence
in the 17th century. At present
the Fagaras Fortress is a
modern museum.
The Brancoveanu Monastery them being illustrations of
(Sambata de Sus) was founded naïve art; you can also find a
by the martyr ruler Constantin valuable collection of religious
Brancoveanu. At present objects.
the Monastry has one of the
richest collections of century-
old glass paintings, most of

Fortified churches are
buildings inspired by
the Saxons, brought to
Transylvania in the 10-
11th centuries. Some are
architectural monuments
impressing by the originality
15
of their styles, while in
others you can find old and
rare religious objects. Such
churches can be found in
Cincu, Cincsor, Halmeag,
Sercaia and in other villages in
the area.
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 info
How to get here
By car
1. Fagaras is about 70km east of Brasov and can be reached following
E68/ DN1: Brasov/Fagaras/Sibiu
2. From Bucharest you can choose between: E68/DN1:
Bucharest/Brasov/Fagaras, or the A1 highway to Pitesti, DN7
Pitesti/Ramnicu Valcea/Sibiu and E68/DN1 Sibiu/Fagaras
By bus
departing from West Brasov Bus Station, Lunga St, no 247.
For more information regarding the time table please visit
Holidays:
Burning Wheel - Sinca Noua (February)
Lent lily Celebration - Sercaia - Vad (May)
“Golden Onion” National Humor Festival - Fagaras (June)
The Bread Festival - Sambata (August)
Peasents Celebration - Comana (August)
Fagaras Days (August)
Fagaras Winter Fest - Fagaras (December)
National Wooden Pane Festival - Victoria
National Exhibition of Religious Glass Painted Icons - Victoria

Sport and leisure activities:

www.autogari.ro

By train Horse riding (Sambata de Jos)

from the central Railway Station, there are about 65 km. Swimming (Blue Lagoon - Fagaras)
For more information regarding the trains time table please visit Paragliding (Balea)
www.infofer.ro Abseiling (Balea)
Cycling (Track: Sâmbăta de Sus - Piscu Alb - Sebeş - Valea Cetăţii
Râşnov - Stejeriş - Drumul Poienii - Prejmer - Perşani - Şoarş - Viscri
- Sighişoara - Biertan - Sâmbăta de Sus)
Off road trail
Bow shooting
Mountain Climbing (Balea)
contact
Accommodation
www.brasovtourism.eu

Tourist information office:

Public House of Culture
1st , Mihai Viteazu St
Tel./fax. 0268 210000, 0724072911, 0749072123
Email: fagaras@brasovtourism.eu

BRASOV TOURISM BOARD

23 Ecaterina Varga St, Brasov
Phone: 0040 268 474 288
Email: apdt@brasovtourism.eu
Web: www.brasovtourism.eu

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19 tara
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Brașov Tourism Board,
23 Ecaterina Varga St, Brașov,
tel: 0040268 474 288
email: apdt@brasovtourism.eu
web: www.brasovtourism.eu