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6 FSI Inlet manifold removal guide | Audi A2 Owners' Club

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1.6 FSI Inlet manifold removal guide

 shaun5 ·  2 Jun 2016

shaun5
S Member

2 Jun 2016  #1

There are only a few guides regarding this so i thought i'd post another which will include pictures.

First thing to do is remove the air duct above the engine. This is held on with 3 X 10mm head (5mm thread
size) nuts. You will also need to remove the skuttle panel / plastic as there are 2 X torq screws under it that
hold the duct on. To remove it, just gently pull it up (I removed the washer jets) but didn't remove the wiper
arms. When removing it be careful not to rip the foam on a stud that is welded to the bulk head. I removed
the radiator header tank to get it out. (there is one 10mm nut under it. Undo it, pull it off the stud and it
comes out of the plastic lugs.

Next is to remove the throttle body. Im sure this has been covered elsewhere. Remove the pipe from the air
 Log in
box, unbolt it, remove the 2 electrical connectors, remove the 2 coolant pipes. Register
I removed the 90degree 
elbow, held on with 4 x torq bolts, 2 X bolts that support it on the inlet manifold, there is 1 electrical
connector. The EGR pipe uses quite large torq bolts but i found a allen key (10mm i think) works. There
might be an air pipe as well but i cant remember.

Now its time to start on the actual inlet manifold. There are 5 easy to see allen bolts (6mm). a few electrical
connectors, a big breather pipe, a vacuum pipe that goes to the flap actuator to remove. The pictures of the
manifold show the 2 more bolts that need to be removed. You have to get under the car to access them.
I removed the left hand engine mount (supporting the engine on a jack and big piece of wood) so i could
pull the engine forward, i cut a piece of wood the correct length and wedged it. Removing what i assume is
the fuel rail pressure sensor help to be able to get the manifold out. When i did get it past the bulk head
there was one more pipe to disconnect.

I will take and add lots more pictures when i get chance.

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Tomsk, fewkeste, chb and 7 others

russeleoin
R Member

3 Jun 2016  #2

Brilliant Shaun, thanks. I need to get to my injectors and this shows me how to get in there.
Regards
Russ

Alan Morriss
Member

4 Jun 2016  #3

Great, I am considering doing this as well.

How much work is needed underneath the car? I am getting a bit old for scrabbling around underneath........

shaun5
S Member

4 Jun 2016  #4

Alan Morriss said: 

Great, I am considering doing this as well.

How much work is needed underneath the car? I am getting a bit old for scrabbling around underneath........

If you can, i would jack the car up and put on axle stands. You will be able to remove the undertray easier
and for me its a better working height (im 6' 4") There isn't to much that needs doing underneath.

Ive just changed the big water pipe on the back of the engine. What a PITA that was. it looks an easy job but
for some reason i struggled.

shaun5
S Member

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7 Jun 2016  #5

Well car is back together but ive got a major fuel leak. I had problems putting the fuel rail back on (it was
VERY tight on the "O" rings) so i must have cut one of them. It comes up with 17428 fuel pressure regulation
control range exceeded p1020. which i assume is because of the leak.
Can someone tell me the best way to refit the rail. I ended up putting the copper adaptors onto the injectors
and then put the rail onto them, is that what other people have done? Obviously ive got to strip it all down
again.

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