Sunscreen Formulary

Formulation Guide for Effective Sun
Care Preparations
Consumers are aware of the health consequences of over-exposure to the sun’s harmful rays. Incidence of skin
diseases and signs of photo-aging continue to increase globally. Therefore consumers require highly effective sun
care products that protect their skin while imparting elegant aesthetics.
Erythema, commonly known as “sunburn”, can occur when unprotected skin is exposed to sunlight. This inflam-
mation of the skin is caused primarily by UV-B radiation (280-320 nm), which penetrates the stratum corneum and
epidermis. The long-term effect of exposure to UV-B radiation is skin cancer.
UV-A radiation (320 – 400nm) penetrates much deeper into the skin. Tanning,
attributed to melanin produc-
tion, is a result of short-
term exposure to UV-A.
Melanin is produced
to protect the skin
from further dam-
age.
2
Photo-aging is an effect of long-term exposure to UV-A. UV-A exposure results in damage to the connective tis-
sues, elastin and collagen, which maintain the integrity and elasticity of the skin. In addition, UV-A suppresses the
skin’s immune system, which makes the skin more susceptible to various skin diseases, including skin cancer.
Today’s sun care products must offer protection against UV-B and UV-A radiation. In addition, they must retain
their efficacy after swimming or water-sports. Formulating effective and elegant sun protection preparations that
encourage regular use promotes healthier, youthful-looking skin.
ISP is a recognized supplier of innovative and effective sun care raw materials.
Our film forming and water resistance optimizing agents include Allianz™ OPT and Ganex® copolymers. In addi-
tion, ISP offers a broad selection of sunscreen actives, known under the trademark Escalol®.
But we offer much more than film formers, water resistance agents and sunscreen actives. ISP offers products
for all of your formulation needs. Our broad product line encompasses preservatives such as LiquaPar® Optima
which is compatible with Avobenzone, RapiThix™ thickeners, silicones (Si-Tec™), emollients (Ceraphyl® and X-Tend™)
and emulsifiers (Cerasynt® and Emulsynt®), to name a few.
We also supply novel formulation ingredients that impart elegance and distinction for all skin care preparations.
Lamellar gel systems (ProLipid®) are innovative skin-like lipid technologies used to promote healthy skin and
enhance product stability. ProLipid® lamellar gels optimize the SPF of sun care formulations by structuring the oil
and water phases of the emulsion to ensure uniform delivery of sunscreen active ingredients. The lamellar gels
provided by ProLipid® also mask the negative sensory aspects of sun care formulations sometime attributed to high
oil phase content by dispersing the oil phase uniformly throughout the lamellar gel.
Lubrajel® is a unique line of clear, water-soluble gels that function as emollinets, moisturizers and thickeners. They
improve the aesthetics of sun care formulations by enhancing their spreadability and reducing drag during product
application.
International Specialty Products is dedicated to providing innovative raw materials, outstanding technical service
and prototype formulations to our customers. Our prototype sun care formulations are typically evaluated in-vivo to
determine SPF. The formulations in this manual have completed stability testing and preservative efficacy tests to
ensure product integrity.
The ISP FORMULATION GUIDE For Effective Sun Care Preparations is designed to briefly introduce you to ISP
products for sun care and to provide novel prototype sun care formulations utilizing ISP products.
For raw material samples, contact (800) 243-6788. For more detailed information on
ISP products, contact ISP Skin Care Technical Service at (877) 812-7501.
We hope that you find the manual useful and welcome any
questions or comments you have about its contents.
3
ESCALOL®: SUNSCREEN ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
ESCALOL® 507 Specifications
INCI Name: Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA Acid Value: 1.0 Max.
Chemical Name: 2-Ethylhexyl p-Dimethylaminobenzoate Saponification Number: 195.0-215.0
USP Nomenclature: Padimate O Specific Gravity (25°C): 0.9900-1.000
UV Activity: UV-B Refractive Index (25°C): 1.5390-1.5430
λmax: 311 nm Color, APHA: 70 Max.
Solubility: Oil Soluble % Purity (GC): 98.0 Min.
CAS # 21245-02-3 % Assay (USP): 97.0-103.8
Physical Form: Yellow Liquid Solubility (5% @ 25°C): Isopropyl Alcohol, Mineral Oil,
Odor: Slight Amine Peanut Oil, Ethyl Alcohol
Structure: Required HLB: 10-12

Approved Use Level (US): Up to 8.0%
Use Level in Combination with other Sunscreen Active
Ingredients: 1.4-8.0%
Approval Status: USA, Europe, Japan
Molecular Formula: C17H25NO2 Formulation Concerns: Prone to oxidation and discoloration,
May discolor cotton and synthetic fabrics
Typical Spectrum of Escalol® 507 in Methanol

1.50
λMAX
Absorbance
1.00
0.50
0.00
200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
Wavelength (Nanometers)
4
INCI Name: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Melting Point (°C): 81.0-86.0
Chemical Name: 1,3-Propanedione, 1-[4-(1,1- Loss on Drying (USP Test): 0.5 Max.
dimethylethyl)phenyl]-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)- % Assay (USP): 95.0-105.0
% Individual Impurities: 3.0 Max.
USP Nomenclature: Avobenzone
% All Impurities: 4.5 Max.
UV Activity: UV-A Solubility (5% @ 25°C): Octinoxate, Isostearyl
λmax: 358 nm Neopentanoate, Decyl Oleate, Diisopropyl Adipate, Castor
Solubility: Oil Soluble Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate,
CAS # 70356-09-1 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Myristate
Approved Use Level (US): Up to 3.0%
Physical Form: Crystalline Powder
Odor: Faint, Characteristic Formulation Concerns: Photo-instability, May deactivate
Structure: UVB Sunscreens, May crystallize in formulation
Formulation Recommendations:
1. Solubilize to prevent crystallization
2. Do not use with Octinoxate
3. To reduce photo-instability and deactivation of UVB sun-
screens add Oxybenzone
4. Use formaldehyde-free preservatives
Molecular Formula: C20H22O3
5. May react with ferric salts and heavy metals. Use a
chelating agent
6. As of June 2002, Avobenzone can not be used with
Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Ensulizole or Padimate O
Typical Spectrum of Escalol® 517 in Ethanol

0.7
λMAX
0.6
0.5
Absorbance
0.4
0.3
0.2
0.1
0
200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
5
INCI Name: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Acid Value: 1.0 Max.
Chemical Name: 2-Ethylhexyl p-Methoxycinnamate Saponification Number: 189.0 Min.
USP Nomenclature: Octinoxate Specific Gravity (25°C): 1.005-1.013
UV Activity: UV-B Refractive Index (25°C): 1.5420-1.5480
λmax: 311 nm % Purity: 98.0 Min.
Solubility: Oil Soluble Solubility (5% @ 25°C): Mineral Oil, Peanut Oil, Ethyl
CAS # 5466-77-3 Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Oleyl Alcohol, Castor Oil, PEG-
Physical Form: Yellow Liquid 8, Cyclomethicone
Odor: Mild, Characteristic Required HLB: 6-8
Structure: Approved Use Level (US): Up to 7.5%
Use Level in Combination with other Sunscreen Active
Ingredients: 2.0-7.5%
Typical Spectra of Escalol® 557 in Ethanol

0.50
λMAX
0.45
0.40
0.35
0.30
Absorbance
0.25
0.20
0.15
0.10
0.05
0.00
200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
6
INCI Name: Benzophenone-3 Melting Point (°C): 62.0-65.0
Chemical Name: 2-Hydroxy-4-Methoxybenzophenone Loss on Drying (USP Test): 0.5 Max.
USP Nomenclature: Oxybenzone % Assay (USP): 97.0-103.0
UV Activity: UV-B and UV-A Congealing Temperature (°C): 62.0 Min.
λmax: 288 nm and 325 nm Solubility (5% @ 25°C): Peanut Oil, Ethanol, Isopropyl
Solubility: Oil Soluble Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol, Castor Oil, PEG-8, Octinoxate,
CAS # 131-57-7 Octisalate
Physical Form: Crystalline Powder Approved Use Level (US): Up to 6.0%
Odor: Faint, Characteristic Use Level in Combination with other Sunscreen Active
Structure: Ingredients: 2.0-6.0%
Formulation Concerns: May crystallize in formulation, May
irritate skin
Formulation Recommendations: Solubilize to prevent crys-
tallization
Typical Spectrum for Escalol® 567 in Ethanol

0.80000
λMAX
0.70000
0.60000
Absorbance
λMAX
0.50000
0.40000
0.30000
0.20000
0.10000
0.00000
200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
7
INCI Name: Benzophenone-4 K-Value @ 285 nm: 46.0-50.0 L/gm-cm
Chemical Name: 2-Hydroxy-4-Methoxy Benzophenone-5 Color, Gardner (10% in Water): 4.0 Max.
Sulfonic Acid pH (1% in Water @ 25°C): 1.2-2.2
USP Nomenclature: Sulsiobenzone Solubility (5% @ 25°C): Water, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl
UV Activity: UV-B and UV-A Alcohol, Ethanol
λmax: 286 nm and 324 nm Approved Use Level (US): 5-10%
Solubility: Water Soluble Typical Use Level for Color Preservation: 0.50%
CAS # 4065-45-6 Approval Status: USA, Europe, Japan
Physical Form: Crystalline Powder Formulation Concerns: High use levels may cause irritation,
Odor: Faint, Characteristic Not water resistant
Structure:
Molecular Formula: C14H12O6S
Typical Spectrum of Escalol® 577 in Methanol

1.50
1.00
λMAX
Absorbance
λMAX
0.50
0.00
200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
8
INCI Name: Ethylhexyl Salicylate Acid: 2.0 Max.
Chemical Name: 2-Ethylhexyl Salicylate Saponification Number: 200.0-230.0
USP Nomenclature: Octisalate Specific Gravity (25°C): 1.013-1.022
UV Activity: UV-B Refractive Index: 1.4950-1.5050
λmax: 307 nm % Purity: 98.0 Min.
Solubility: Oil Soluble Solubility (5% @ 25°C): Isopropanol, Ethanol, Mineral Oil,
CAS # 118-60-5 Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Isopropyl Myristate,
Physical Form: Yellow Liquid Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Isodecyl Oleate
Odor: Typical, Bland Approved Use Level (US): Up to 5.0%
Structure: Use Level in Combination with other Sunscreen Active
Ingredients: 3-5%
Formulation Concerns: Not as effective as Octinoxate
Formulation Recommendations: Effective solubilizer for
Oxybenzone
Typical Spectra of Escalol® 587 in Ethanol

2.50
2.00
1.50
Absorbance
λMAX
1.00
0.50
0.00
200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
9
INCI Name: Octocrylene % Purity: 98.0 Min.
Chemical Name: 2-Ethylhexyl-2-Cyano-3,3-Diphenyl Absorbtivity @ 303 nm: 34.0 l/gm-cm Min.
Acrylate Color, Gardner (10% in IPA): 3.0 Max.
USP Nomenclature: Octocrylene Solubility (5% @ 25°C): Isopropanol, Ethanol, Isopropyl
UV Activity: UV-B Myristate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Castor Oil, Hexylene Glycol
λmax: 303 nm Approved Use Level (US): Up to 10.0%
Solubility: Oil Soluble Use Level in Combination with other Sunscreen Active
CAS # 6197-30-4 Ingredients: 7.0-10.0%
Physical Form: Viscous Yellow Oil Formulation Concerns: Imparts heavy, greasy after feel
Odor: Mild, Characteristic Formulation Recommendations: Excellent for use in high
Structure: SPF sunscreens
Molecular Formula: C24H27NO2
Typical Spectra of Escalol® 597 in Methanol

1.00
λMAX
0.80
0.60
Absorbance
0.40
0.20
0.00
200 220 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400
10
ESCALOL® DISPERSIONS
ESCALOL® T-100 ESCALOL® Z-100
INCI Name: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) Titanium INCI Name: Zinc Oxide (and) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Dioxide (and) VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (and) Alumina (and) VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (and) Methicone
(and) Dimethicone CAS # 1314-13-2, 5466-77-3, 63231-81-2, 9004-73-3
CAS # 5466-7-3, 13465-67-7, 63231-81-2, 1344-28-1, 9016-00-6 Physical Form: White, Flowable, Shear Thinning Suspension
Physical Form: White Flowable Suspension Odor: Mild, Bland
Odor: Mild, Bland
Specifications Specifications
Viscosity @ 25°C (Bkfld, LVDV, #4, 60 rpm, 2 Min, W1262): Viscosity @ 25°C (Bkfld, LVDV, #4, 60 rpm, 2 Min, W1262):
3000-10,000 60,000 Max
Mean Particle Size: <150 nm Mean Particle Size: 180 nm
Density: Kg/L: 1.40-1.56
% Ash: 40-46
Composition Composition
Ultafine TiO2: 38.0 ± 3% Zinc Oxide: 53.0 ± 3%
Octyl Methoxycinnamate: 40.0 ± 4% Octyl Methoxycinnamate: 30.0 ± 2%
% Activity: 78.0 % Activity: 82.0
Recommended Use Levels: Up to 18.75% Recommended Use Levels: Up to 25.0%
Approval Status: USA, Europe, Japan Approval Status: USA, Europe, Japan
Formulation Concerns: Cannot be combined with Avobenzone Formulation Concerns: Cannot be combined with Avobenzone
Titanium Dioxide vs. Zinc Oxide Absorption
100
TiO2
ZnO
0
280 300 320 340 360 380 400
11
GANEX® ANDALLIANZ™ FILM FORMERS AND WATER RESISTANCE AGENTS
GANEX® Film Formers
Structure:
R = Alkyl Group
V-216 Melting Point (°C): 35.0-40.0

INCI Name: VP/Hexadecene Copolymer HLB Requirement: 8
Alkylation Group: Hexadecene (C16) Approval Status: Global
VP/Alkylation Ratio: 20/80
CAS # 63231-81-2 WP-660
Physical Form: Yellow Viscous Liquid INCI Name: Tricontanyl PVP
Specifications Alkylation Group: Triacontene (C30)
% Solids: 96.0 Min. VP/Alkylation Ratio: 20/80
Viscosity: 1.03-1.05 (1% in Toluene @ 25°C) CAS # 136445-69-7
% Nitrogen: 2.0-3.0 Physical Form: Off White Flake
Color (VCS): 1 Max. Specifications
Bromine Number: 15.0 Max. % Solids: 98.0 Min.
Melting Point (°C): 8.5 Viscosity: 1.20-1.55 (1% in Toluene @ 30°C)
HLB Requirement: 10 % Nitrogen: 2.0 – 3.0
Approval Status: Global Color (VCS): 3 max.
Bromine Number: 10 Max.
V-220 Melting Point (°C): 60.0-65.0
INCI Name: VP/Eicosene Copolymer HLB Requirement: 6
Alkylation Group: Eicosene (C20) Approval Status: Global
VP/Alkylation Ratio: 30/70
CAS # 28211-18-9 Benefits
Physical Form: Yellow Waxy Solid • Excellent film formers
Specifications • Substantive to skin
% Solids: 96.0 Min. • Provide water and wear resistance
Viscosity: 20,000 Max. (cps @ 80°C) • Effective pigment dispersants
% Nitrogen: 2.9-3.6 • Wide range of solubility and functionality
Color (VCS): 2 Max.
Bromine Number: 8 Max.
12
ALLIANZ™ OPT ALLIANZ™ OPT Rheology
Oil Phase Technology for Water
Resistance
INCI Name: Acrylates/C12-22 Alkylmethacrylate Copolymer
Tetrapolymer Composition: Methacrylic Acid
Methyl Methacrylate
Butyl Acrylate
Cetyl-Eicosinyl Methacrylate
Physical Form: Milky White Aqueous Dispersion
Specifications
% Solids: 47-49
pH: 5.0-6.5
Residual Monomers: 250 ppm Max. ALLIANZ™ OPT Mode of Action
Recommended Applications: Low viscosity non-ionic • ALLIANZ™ OPT is a very hydrophobic, high molecular
ethoxilate emulsions, 8-hour in-vitro water resistance weight, crosslinked polymer.
• The hydrophobic nature of the polymer imparts
solubility/dispersibility to the oil phase.
• ALLIANZ™ OPT effectively thickens the oil phase by creat-
ing a large hydrophobic network.
Film Formers and Water Resistance Agents Applications Guide

ALLIANZ™ OPT GANEX® V-216 GANEX® V-220 GANEX® WP-660
Lotions/Creams
Polar Oil Phase √ √
Non-Polar Oil Phase √
Alcohol Ethoxylate Emulsions √
Lamellar Gels √ √ √
Water-in-Silicone Emulsions √
Sprays/Milks
Oil Sprays √
Non-ionic Emulsions √ √ √
Cold-Process √
Inorganic/Particulate Systems
Titanium Dioxide √ √ √
Zinc Oxide √ √ √
13
X-TEND™ 226 AND CERAPHYL® 41 AND 45: SOLVENTS FOR SUNSCREENS
X-TEND™ 226 Specifications
Proposed INCI Name: 2-Phenylethyl Benzoate Acid Value (@ 25°C): 1.0 Max.
CAS # 94-47-3 Saponification Number: 239.0-249.0
Physical Form: Colorless to light yellow liquid Specific Gravity (25°C): 1.090-1.110
Odor: Faint odor of roses Refractive Index (25°C): 1.550-1.560
Structure: *Oxybenzone Solubility in X-TEND™ 226: 35% solids
*Avobenzone Solubility in X-TEND™ 226: 24% solids
CERAPHYL® 41 Specifications
INCI Name: C12-15 Alkyl Lactate Acid Value (@ 25°C): 2.0 Max.
Chemical Name: 2-Hydroxypropanoic Acid, C12-15 Esters Saponification Number: 195.0-210.0
CAS # 93925-36-1 Specific Gravity (25°C): 0.9000-0.9200
Physical Form: Liquid Refractive Index (25°C): 1.4430-1.4450
Odor: Characteristic Required HLB: 14
Structure: *Oxybenzone Solubility in CERAPHYL®: 12% solids
*Avobenzone Solubility in CERAPHYL®: 14% solids
Formulation Considerations: Recommended for use in for-
mulations with pH 6–7.5.
R = C12-15 Mixed Alcohols

* A cold solubilization process was used. The observations were recorded after 24 hours.
CERAPHYL® 45 Specifications
INCI Name: Dioctyl Malate Acid Value (@ 25°C): 0-5.0
Chemical Name: Bis (2-ethylhexyl) malate Saponification Number: 310.0-325.0
CAS # 56235-92-8 Specific Gravity (25°C): 0.965-0.980
Physical Form: Liquid Refractive Index (25°C): 1.4480-1.4520
Odor: Characteristic Required HLB: 12
Structure: *Oxybenzone Solubility in CERAPHYL®: 17% solids
*Avobenzone Solubility in CERAPHYL®: 14% solids
Formulation Considerations: Recommended for use in for-
mulations with pH 6–7.5.
* A cold solubilization process was used. The observations were recorded after 24 hours.
14
PROLIPID® LAMELLAR GELS FOR SUN CARE PRODUCTS
PROLIPID® 141 Iodine Value: 10.0 Max.
INCI Name: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Melting Point ºC: 50.0-55.0
Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Color, Gardner (10% in Isopropanol): 3 Max.
Alcohol (and) Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol Approval Status: Global
CAS # 31566-31-1, 661-19-8, 57-10-3, 57-11-4, 8002-43-5 Choice of Benefits:
Physical Form: Waxy Solid • Broad Flexibility
Odor: Mild, Characteristic • Soft/Firm Creams
Specifications • Dry Rub-Out
Acid Value: 58.0-68.0 • Short Playtime
Saponification Number: 105.0-125.0 • Non-greasy After Feel
PROLIPID® 151 Iodine Value: 10.0 Max.

INCI Name: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Melting Point ºC: 55.0-60.0
Stearyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid Color, Gardner (10% in Isopropanol): 3 Max.
(and) Stearic Acid (and) Hydroxyethyl Approval Status: Global
Cetearamidopropyldimonium Chloride Choice of Benefits:
CAS # 11099-07-3, 36653-82-4, 112-92-5, 661-19-8, 57-10-3, 57- • Low Viscosity Lotions Possible
11-4, 243982-96-9 • Moist Rub-Out
Physical Form: Waxy Solid • Long Playtime
Odor: Mild, Characteristic • Lubricious After Feel
Specifications
Acid Value: 5.0-15.0
Saponification Number: 100.0-120.0
Benefits of PROLIPID® Lamellar Gels

• Enhances the skin’s lipid bilayer structure
• Mimics normal skin structure
• Promotes “healthy skin”
• Enhances the skin’s barrier function

• Long-lasting moisturization
• Helps prevention of sensitive skin reactions
• Structures oil and water phases

• Delivers functional ingredients uniformly
• Contemporary aesthetics
* see next page for formulation
15
CLINICAL WATER RESISTANCE EVALUATION USING PROLIPID® 141
SPF 15 FORMULATION
INGREDIENTS #1 #2 #3
PHASE A
Deionized Water 62.69 61.69 60.69
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10
Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer 1.00 1.00 1.00
Acrylates Copolymer 1.00 1.00 1.00
Hexylene Glycol 1.00 1.00 1.00
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (and) Propylene Glycol
(and) PVM/MA Copolymer (LUBRAJEL® OIL) 0.50 0.50 0.50
PHASE B
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid (and)
Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and) Myristyl
Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol (PROLIPID® 141) 3.00 3.00 5.00
Octyl Methoxycinnamate (ESCALOL 557) ®
7.50 7.50 7.50
Oxybenzone (ESCALOL 567) ®
3.00 3.00 3.00
Octyl Salicylate (ESCALOL 587)®
3.00 3.00 3.00
Tridecyl Neopentanoate (CERAPHYL 55) ®
2.00 2.00 2.00
Octyl Palmitate (CERAPHYL 368) ®
6.00 6.00 6.00
Myristyl Myristate (CERAPHYL 424) ®
1.00 1.00 1.00
VP/Eicosene Copolymer (GANEX V-220) ®
0 1.00 0
PHASE C
Deionized Water 5.00 5.00 5.00
NaOH, 10% Solution 1.26 1.26 1.26
PHASE D
Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
(GERMALL® PLUS) 0.50 0.50 0.50
Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20
Hexylene Glycol 1.00 1.00 1.00
PHASE E
Fragrance NA-74 0.25 0.25 0.25
------- -------- --------
100.00% 100.00% 100.00%
16
FORMULARY INDEX
Body and Face Care
Lotions and Creams
Broad Spectrum Baby Sunscreen with ESCALOL® Z-100 10673-37-1
Nourishing Sunscreen with VITAL ET™ 10804-130-3
Sensitive Skin Very Water Resistant Sunblock 10504-132-1
SPF 12 Broad Spectrum Zinc Oxide Lotion 10801-44-1
SPF 15 Non-Ionic Water Resistant Sunscreen 10962-8-1
SPF 30 Sunscreen Lotion 10801-24-2
High SPF (~30) Non-Ionic Water Resistant Sunscreen 10962-17-1
Oil-Free Quick-Dry SPF 23 Sunblock with RAPITHIX™ A-100 10844-109-1
Water-in-Silicone Sunscreen 10801-145-1
Water-in-Silicone Sunscreen with ALLIANZ™ OPT 10804-46-1
Lamellar Gels
Oil-Free Very Water Resistant SPF 15 Sunscreen with GANEX® V-220 and PROLIPID® 141 10323-88-1
SPF 45 Emulsion with PROLIPID® 141 and ESCALOL® T-100 10510-35-1
High SPF Emulsion with PROLIPID® 141 10112-143-1
PROLIPID® 141 Sunscreen Cream SPF 15 10323-151-1
PROLIPID® 141 Sunscreen Lotion 10504-143-1
Broad Spectrum SPF Sunscreen with PROLIPID® 141 and X-TEND™ 226 10890-121
Lamellar Gel Sprays

SPF 15 PROLIPID® 151 Sunscreen Spray with ALLIANZ™ OPT 10783-37-C
SPF 15 Sunscreen Spray with ALLIANZ™ OPT 10783-90-B
Oil Sprays
Broad Spectrum Very Water Resistant SPF 12 Sunscreen Oil Spray with ESCALOL® 517 10888-23-1
Medium SPF Silicone Sunscreen Spray 10888-24-1
Sticks
SPF 30 Sunscreen Stick 10818-46-2
High SPF Sunscreen Stick 10804-52-2
Lip Care
SPF 10 Sunscreen Stick 10507-120-1
Sunscreen Balm Pot with ESCALOL® T-100 10674-30-1
17
BROAD SPECTRUM BABY SUNSCREEN WITH ESCALOL® Z-100
SPF 20 #10673-37-1
INGREDIENTS %W/W SUPPLIER
PHASE A
Deionized Water 47.73
Butylene Glycol 2.00 Ruger
Disodium EDTA 0.10 Dow Chemical
PEG-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer (Aculyn® 46) 3.50 Rohm & Haas
Xanthan Gum (Keltrol T) 0.40 CP Kelco
Steareth-21 (Brij 721) 3.50 ICI
Butylated PVP (GANEX® P-904LC) 0.05 ISP
PHASE B
Zinc Oxide (and) Octyl Methoxycinnamate (and) VP/Hexadecene
Copolymer (and) Methicone (ESCALOL™ Z-100) 11.36 ISP
Octinoxate (ESCALOL® 557) 4.09 ISP
Oxybenzone (ESCALOL® 567) 3.00 ISP
Octisalate (ESCALOL® 587) 5.00 ISP
Steareth-2 (Brij 72) 1.50 ICI
Dimethicone (SI-TEC™ DM 100) 1.00 ISP
Tridecyl Neopentanoate (CERAPHYL® 55) 3.00 ISP
Glyceryl Dilaurate (EMULSYNT™ GDL) 1.00 ISP
VP/Eicosene Copolymer (GANEX® V-220) 1.00 ISP
PHASE C
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (and) Propylene Glycol (and) PVM/MA
Copolymer (LUBRAJEL® OIL) 1.25 ISP
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (and) Water (and) Cyclomethicone (and)
Dimethiconol (and) PEG-40 Sorbitan Diisostearate (and) Polysorbate 81
(and) PEG-15 Cocamine (and) Laureth-9 (LUBRASIL® DS) 5.00 ISP
PHASE D
Cyclopentasiloxane (SI-TEC™ CM 040) 4.00 ISP
Banana Berry Beach Fragrance NN-74297 0.02 Ungerer
PHASE E
Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (GERMALL® PLUS) 0.30 ISP
Methylparaben 0.20 ISP
Butylene Glycol 1.00 Ruger
-----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Charge vessel with water, Disodium EDTA, Ganex-P-904LC, Aculyn 46 and Brij 721.
2. Begin mixing and heating until homogeneous.
3. Combine Butylene Glycol and Keltrol T. Add this to batch. Mix and heat to 75˚C.
4. Combine ingredients in Phase B; mix and heat to 75˚C.
5. Homogenize Phase B into Phase A. Homogenize for 5-7 minutes.
6. Switch to sweep mixing. Mix and cool to 40˚C. Add Phase C.
7. Continue to add in each phase. Mix well between additions. QS with water.
pH = 7.60 Viscosity = 45,600 cps ( Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)
5 panel in-vivo very water resistant SPF test according to FDA protocol conducted by Harrison Research Labs.
SPF after immersion = 20.17 (5 subjects) Critical Wavelength = 372
This formula has passed a 28 day double challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized
to its lowest effective level.
18
NOURISHING SUNSCREEN WITH VITAL ET™
SPF 18 #10804-130-3
PHASE A
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA) 0.10 Dow
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Veegum Ultra) 0.50 RT Vanderbilt
Xanthan Gum (Keltro T) 0.50 CP Kelco
Butylene Glycol 3.00
PHASE B
Stearic Acid 3.00
Glyceryl Stearate (CERASYNT® SD) 1.50 ISP
Cetyl Alcohol (Lanette 16 NF) 0.75 Cognis
Ethylhexyl Palmitate (CERAPHYL® 368) 4.00 ISP
Myristyl Myristate (CERAPHYL® 424) 0.50 ISP
Isostearyl Neopentanoate (CERAPHYL® 375) 2.00 ISP
PHASE C
Triethanolamine, 99% 1.20
PHASE D
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates
(VITAL ET™) 7.50 ISP
Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl
Butylcarbamate (LIQUID GERMALL® PLUS) 0.75 ISP
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine, Water, EDTA; sprinkle in Veegum Ultra. Pre-mix Keltrol T and Glycol; slowly add to Phase A.
Begin heating to 70-75˚C
2. Combine ingredients in Phase B with mixing and heat to 75-80˚C.
3. When Phase B is at 70-75˚C add to Phase A with good mixing.
4. Combine ingredients in Phase C; add to batch with mixing.
5. After batch is uniform begin to cool.
6. Add Phase D at 30-35˚C in order listed.
7. QS for water loss and mix to room temperature.
pH = 7.90 Viscosity = 7,200 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)
This formula has passed a 28-day double challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized
19
SENSITIVE SKIN VERY WATER RESISTANT SUNBLOCK
SPF 20* #10504-132-1
PHASE A
Propylene Glycol 2.00
Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer (Aculyn® 22) 2.00 Rohm & Haas
Acrylates Copolymer (Aculyn® 33) 1.00 Rohm & Haas
PHASE B
Sodium Hydroxide 10% Soln. 1.89
PHASE C
Octyl Methoxycinnamate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) VP/Hexadecene
Copolymer (and) Alumina (and) Dimethicone (ESCALOL™ T-100) 13.08 ISP
Glyceryl Dilaurate (EMULSYNT® GDL) 2.00 ISP
Isostearyl Neopentanoate (CERAPHYL® 375) 1.50 ISP
Isodecyl Oleate (CERAPHYL® 140A) 1.50 ISP
Diisopropyl Adipate (CERAPHYL® 230) 1.50 ISP
Phenyl Trimethicone (SI-TEC™ PTM 20) 0.50 ISP
PHASE D
Butylated PVP (GANEX® P-904) 0.10 ISP
PHASE E
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (and) Propylene Glycol (and) PVM/MA
Copolymer (LUBRAJEL® OIL) 1.00 ISP
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (and) Water (and) Cyclomethicone (and)
Dimethiconol (and) PEG-40- Sorbitan Diisostearate (and) Polysorbate-81
(and) PEG-15 Cocamine (and) Laureth-9 (LUBRASIL® DS) 5.00 ISP
PHASE F
---------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Mix and heat Phase A to 75˚C. Add Phase B to Phase A and keep at 75˚C. Heat and mix Phase C to 75˚C.
2. Homogenize Phase C into the AB mixture. Add Phase D to the batch. Homogenize for 5-7 minutes.
3. Take off homogenizer and switch to propeller blade. Mix and cool to 40˚C. Add Phase E. Mix well.
4. Add Phase F. Mix well. Adjust for water loss.
*5 panel in-vivo very water resistant SPF test according to FDA protocol conducted by Harrison Research Labs. SPF before
immersion = 21.00 (5 subjects) SPF after immersion = 20.00 (5 subjects)
20
SPF 12 BROAD SPECTRUM ZINC OXIDE LOTION
#10801-44-1
PHASE A
Trisodium EDTA 0.10
Glycerin 2.00
Xanthan Gum (Keltrol T) 0.40 Kelco
PHASE B
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (Promulgen D) 3.00 Amerchol
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165) 2.50 Uniqema
Zinc Oxide (and) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and)
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (and) Methicone
(ESCALOL® Z-100) 9.47 ISP
PHASE C
(GERMALL® PLUS) 0.30 ISP
Glycerin 1.00
-----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Charge vessel with water. Slurry together the Keltrol T and Glycerin.
2. Add in the EDTA and begin heating. Slowly add the Keltrol T slurry to the water.
3. Mix and heat the water phase to 75-80˚C.
4. Combine the ingredients in Phase B except for the Escalol® Z-100. Mix and heat to 75˚C.
5. When oil phase is uniform, add the Escalol Z-100. Heat back to 75˚C.
6. Add Phase B to Phase A under propeller mixing. Mix and cool batch to 45˚C.
7. Add ingredients in Phase C. Cool to room temperature. QS with water.
5 panel in-vivo static SPF test according to FDA protocol conducted by Consumer Product Testing.
Critical Wavelength = 370 nm
21
SPF 15 NON-IONIC WATER RESISTANT SUNSCREEN
#10962-8-1
PHASE A
Hexylene Glycol 2.00
Carbomer (Carbopol 980) 0.20 Noveon
PHASE B
PEG-20 Stearate (CERASYNT® 840) 2.00 ISP
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Laureth-23 (CERASYNT® 945) 5.00 ISP
PHASE C
PHASE D
Acrylates/C12-22 Alkylmethacrylate Copolymer
(ALLIANZ™ OPT) 2.06 ISP
PHASE E
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and)
Isopropylparaben (and) Butylparaben (LIQUAPAR® OPTIMA) 0.50 ISP
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine water and glycol of Phase A at room temperature. Slowly sprinkle Carbopol into Phase A with stirring. When uni
form, begin heating to 70-75˚C with stirring.
2. Combine Phase B; heat to 75-80˚C; stir until uniform.
3. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A with homogenization at 70˚C. When batch appears uniform; add Phase C with
homogenization. When batch appears uniform, turn off heat. Switch to sweep at 60˚C. Continue sweep throughout cool-down.
4. Add Phase D with stirring at 45˚C.
5. Add Phase E with stirring at 40˚C. Make up for water loss and stir to room temperature.
pH = 6.40 Viscosity = 5,480 cps (Brookfield Model RCT, TB @ 10 RPM)
22
SPF 30 SUNSCREEN LOTION
#10801-24-2
PHASE A
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (and) Propylene Glycol (and)
PVM/MA Copolymer (LUBRAJEL® OIL) 0.50 ISP
PHASE B
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid
(and) Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and)
Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol (PROLIPID® 141) 5.00 ISP
Octocrylene (ESCALOL® 597) 7.00 ISP
Tricontanyl PVP (GANEX® WP-660) 0.50 ISP
PHASE C
PHASE D
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% Solution 1.68
PHASE E
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and)
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (and) Alumina (and)
Dimethicone (ESCALOL® T-100) 2.62 ISP
PHASE F
Phenoxyethanol (and) Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben
(and) Butylparaben (LIQUAPAR® PE) 0.50 ISP
---------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and heat to 75˚C.
2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 75˚C. Mix and heat Phase B until clear.
3. When Phase B is clear, add Phase C to Phase B. Under propeller mixing, add Phases B&C into Phase A. Shut off heat.
4. Add Phase D into mixing batch. Mix for 2-5 minutes. Sprinkle Ganex P-904 into the batch. Mix and cool to 50˚C.
5. Homogenize the remaining ingredients in Phase E into the batch. Allow sufficient time between each addition for uniformity.
6. Pull off homogenizer and switch to sweep. Add Phase F and mix until uniform. QS for water loss.
pH = 7.18 Viscosity = 24,000 cps (Brookfield Model RVT TB @ 5 RPM)
5 panel in-vivo static SPF test according to FDA protocol conducted by Consumer Product Testing.
23
HIGH SPF (~30) NON-IONIC WATER RESISTANT SUNSCREEN
#10962-17-1
PHASE A
PHASE B
PEG-20 Stearate (CERASYNT® 840) 2.00 ISP
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Laureth-23 (CERASYNT® 945) 5.00 ISP
PHASE C
PHASE D
PHASE E
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and)
Isopropylparaben (and) Butylparaben (LIQUAPAR® OPTIMA) 0.50 ISP
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine water and glycol of Phase A at RT. Slowly sprinkle Carbopol into Phase A at RT with stirring. Begin heating
to 70-75˚C with stirring.
2. Combine Phase B; heat to 75-80˚C; stir until uniform.
3. Slowly add Phase B to Phase A with homogenization at 70˚C. When batch appears uniform; add Phase C with homogenization.
When batch appears uniform, turn off heat. Switch to sweep at 60˚C. Continue sweep throughout cool-down.
4. Add Phase D with stirring at 50˚C.
5. Add Phase E with stirring at 45˚C.
6. Make up for water loss and stir to RT.
pH = 6.50
Viscosity = 5,640 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 10 RPM)
24
OIL-FREE QUICK-DRY SPF 23 SUNBLOCK WITH RAPITHIX™ A-100
#10844-109-1
PHASE A
Sodium Polyacrylate (RAPTHIX™ A-100) 1.00 ISP
PHASE B
PHASE C
Alcohol 20.00
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and mix. Heat to 50-55˚C.
2. Combine ingredients in Phase B; heat to 60˚C and mix well. Allow to cool to RT.
3. Combine Phases C & A and mix until uniform.
4. Slowly add Phase B.
5. QS with Alcohol.
pH = 6.65
25
WATER-IN-SILICONE SUNSCREEN
#10801-145-1
PHASE A
Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone
(SI-TEC™ DMC 3071) 2.00 ISP
Mineral Oil (Carnation Light #70) 3.00 Witco
Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax) 0.50 Frank B.Ross
Beeswax (Refined Yellow Beeswax Prills) 0.50 Frank B.Ross
Polyethylene (Performalene 400 Polyethylene) 1.00 New Phase
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Arlacel P-135) 2.00 Uniqema
PHASE B
PHASE C
PHASE D
Sodium Chloride 0.60
-----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A. Mix and heat to 90˚C until uniform. Cool back to 70˚C.
2. At 70˚C add Phase B to Phase A. Mix and cool to 50˚C.
3. Combine ingredients in Phase D. Mix and heat to 55˚C.
4. With fast agitation, combine Phase D to Phases A&B. The incorporation should take at least 10 minutes.
5. Mix and cool to 35-40˚C. Homogenize Phase C into batch when uniform.
Viscosity = 21,200 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, Spindle TB @ 5 RPM)
26
WATER-IN-SILICONE SUNSCREEN WITH ALLIANZ™ OPT
#10804-46-1
PHASE A
Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone
(SI-TEC™ DMC 3071) 2.00 ISP
Mineral Oil (Carnation Light #70) 3.00 Witco
Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax) 0.50 Frank B.Ross
Beeswax (Refined Yellow Beeswax Prills) 0.50 Frank B.Ross
Polyethylene (Performalene 400 Polyethylene) 1.00 New Phase
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Arlacel P-135) 2.00 Uniqema
PHASE B
PHASE C
PHASE D
Sodium Chloride 0.60
-----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A. Mix and heat to 90˚C until uniform. Cool back to 70˚C.
2. At 70˚C add Phase B to Phase A. Mix and cool to 50˚C.
3. Combine ingredients in Phase D. Mix and heat to 55˚C.
4. With fast agitation, combine Phase D to Phases A&B. The incorporation should take at least 10 minutes.
5. Mix and cool to 35-40˚C. Homogenize Phase C into batch when uniform.
Viscosity = 75,000 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, Spindle TB @ 5 RPM)
27
OIL-FREE VERY WATER RESISTANT SPF 15 SUNSCREEN WITH
GANEX®V-220 AND PROLIPID®141
#10323-88-1
PHASE A
(and) PVM/MA Copolymer (LUBRAJEL® OIL) 0.50 ISP
PHASE B
Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol (PROLIPID® 141) 3.00 ISP
VP/Eicosene Copolymer (GANEX® V-220) 1.00 ISP
PHASE C
NaOH, 10% Solution 1.26
PHASE D
PHASE E
Fragrance NA-74 0.25 Robertet
--------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and heat to 70-75˚C.
2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and mix and heat to 70-75˚C.
3. Add Phase B to Phase A under homogenization.
4. Add Phase C to the batch under homogenization and homogenize for 15 minutes.
5. Switch to propeller mixing and mix and cool to 45˚C.
6. Add Phase D at 45˚C. Add Phase E at 40˚C. QS with water.
pH = 7.30 Viscosity = 55, 200 cps (Brookfield RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)
SPF before immersion = 18.0 (5 subjects) SPF after immersion = 15.75 (5 subjects)
28
SPF 45* EMULSION WITH PROLIPID® 141 & ESCALOL® T-100
#10510-35-1
PHASE A
Disodium EDTA (Versene) 0.10 Dow Chemical
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Veegum Ultra) 1.00 Vanderbilt
Glycerin 1.00
Carboxymethylcellulose (CMC 7 HOF) 0.50 Aqualon
PHASE B
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid
(and) Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and)
Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol (PROLIPID® 141) 4.00 ISP
PHASE C
Titanium Dioxide (and) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) VP/Hexadecene
Copolymer (and) Alumina (and) Dimethicone (ESCALOL® T-100) 13.50 ISP
PHASE D
PHASE E
Phenoxyethanol (and) Isopropylparaben (and Isobutylparaben
PHASE F
Fragrance (LL62298) 0.25 Ungerer
---------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine Water, EDTA, Veegum and Ganex P-904 of Phase A with stirring at RT. Premix Glycerin and CMC, add to
Phase A with stirring at RT. Begin heating Phase A to 70-75˚C with stirring.
2. Combine Phase B, heat to 75-80˚C and stir until uniform.
3. When Phase B is uniform at 75-80˚C, add Phase B to Phase A with stirring. When batch appears uniform, turn off heat.
4. Add Phase C with stirring at 50˚C. Continue stirring throughout cool-down.
5. Add Phase D at 40˚C with stirring.
6. Add Phase E at 35˚C with stirring.
7. Add Phase F at 30˚C. Adjust for water loss, sweep to RT.
pH = 6.48 Viscosity = 60,000 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TC @ 5 RPM) *Very water resistant
*5 panel in-vivo very water resistant SPF test according to FDA protocol conducted by Harrison Research Labs, Inc.
29
HIGH SPF EMULSION WITH PROLIPID® 141
#10112-143-1
PHASE A
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA) 0.10 Dow Chemical
Butylated PVP (GANEX® P-904-LC) 0.05 ISP
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Veegum Ultra) 1.00 RT Vanderbilt
Glycerin 1.00
Cellulose Gum (CMC 7HOF) 0.50 Aqualon
PHASE B
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic
Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol
(and) Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol (PROLIPID® 141) 4.00 ISP
PVP/Eicosene Copolymer (GANEX® V-220) 1.00 ISP
PHASE C
Phenyl Trimethicone, 20 cst 2.00
Dimethicone Copolyol Beeswax (Siliconyl Beeswax) 1.00
PHASE D
PHASE E
Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl (and) Butylcarbamate (GERMALL® PLUS) 0.30 ISP
PHASE F
Fragrance (LL62298) 0.25 Ungerer
--------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine Water, Versene Ganex and Veegum of Phase A with stirring at RT. Pre-mix Glycerin and CMC and add to Phase
A with stirring at RT. Begin heating Phase A to 70-75˚C with stirring.
2. Separately combine Phase B and C, heat to 75-80˚C and stir each Phase until uniform.
3. When Phases B and C are uniform at 75-80˚C, add Phase C to Phase B with stirring and immediately add Phases BC to
Phase A with stirring. When uniform, turn off heat.
4. Add Phase D with stirring at 40˚C. Continue stirring through cool-down.
5. Add Phase E at 35˚C with stirring.
6. Add Phase F at 30˚C with stirring. Adjust for water loss, sweep to RT.
pH = 5.09
Viscosity = 162,000 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TD @ 5RPM
30
PROLIPID® 141 SUNSCREEN CREAM SPF 15
#10323-151-1
PHASE A
PHASE B
PHASE C
NaOH, 10% Solution 1.26
PHASE D
PHASE E
Fragrance NA-74 0.25 Robertet
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A and heat to 70-75˚C.
2. Combine ingredients in Phase B and mix and heat to 70-75˚C.
3. Add Phase B to Phase A under homogenization.
4. Add Phase C to the batch under homogenization and homogenize for 15 minutes.
5. Switch to propeller mixing and mix and cool to 45˚C.
6. Add Phase D at 45˚C. Add Phase E at 40˚C. QS with water.
pH = 6.70
Viscosity = 70,400 cps (Brookfield RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)
31
PROLIPID® 141 SUNSCREEN LOTION
SPF 28 #10504-143-1
PHASE A
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (and) Propylene Glycol (and)
PVM/MA Copolymer (LUBRAJEL® OIL) 1.50 ISP
PHASE B
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic (and)
Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and) Myristyl Alcohol
(and) Cetyl Alcohol (PROLIPID® 141) 5.00 ISP
Tricontanyl PVP (GANEX® WP-660) 0.50 ISP
PHASE C
PHASE D
Sodium Hydroxide, 10% Solution 1.68
PHASE E
PHASE F
Fragrance RA-36 0.15 Robertet
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A; mix and heat to 75˚C.
2. In a separate vessel, combine ingredients in Phase B; mix and heat to 75˚C. (Phase should be clear)
3. In a third vessel, combine ingredients in Phase C; mix and heat to 75˚C.
4. Add Phase C to Phase B with mixing while maintaining a temperature of 75˚C.
5. Homogenize Phase BC into Phase A. Shut off heat source.
6. Add Phase D into homogenizing. Homogenize for 2-5 minutes.
7. Sprinkle Phase E into homogenizing batch. Homogenize for 5 additional minutes.
8. Take off homogenizer and switch to sweep blade. Mix and cool batch to 40˚C.
9. Combine ingredients in Phase F excluding the fragrance. Add to the batch with mixing.
10. Finally, add the fragrance to the batch. QS for water loss.
5 Panel in-vivo very water resistant SPF Test according to FDA protocol conducted by Harrison Research Laboratories, Inc.
SPF after immersion = 28.17 (5 subjects)
32
BROAD SPECTRUM SPF SUNSCREEN WITH PROLIPID® 141
AND X-TEND™ 226
#10890-121-1
PHASE A
PHASE B
Avobenzone (ESCALOL® 517) 2.00 ISP
2-Phenethyl Benzoate (X-TEND™ 226) 10.00 ISP
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid
(and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and) Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol
(PROLIPID® 141) 4.00 ISP
PHASE C
Triethanolamine 0.40
PHASE D
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben
(and) Butylparaben (LIQUAPAR® OPTIMA) 1.25 ISP
Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben (LIQUAPAR® OIL) 0.40 ISP
Caprylyl Glycol (Lexguard O) 1.00 Inolex
PHASE E
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (Glycacil-L) 0.20 Lonza
---------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A; mix until uniform and heat to 75˚C.
2. Combine ingredients in Phase B; heat to 75˚C.
3. Combine Phase B to Phase A with homogenization.
4. Combine Phase C to Phases A&B with homogenization.
5. Cool to 45˚C (Heat Lexguard O and add to LiquaPar Optima) and add Phase D.
6. Add Phase E.
7. Cool to RT. QS for water loss.
33
SPF 15 PROLIPID®151 SUNSCREEN SPRAY WITH ALLIANZ™ OPT
#10783-37-C
PHASE A
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA) 0.10 Dow Chemical
Xanthan Gum (Keltrol T) 0.50 Kelco
PHASE B
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Stearyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl
Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Hydroxyethyl
Cetearamidopropyldimonium Chloride (PROLIPID® 151) 6.00 ISP
PHASE C
PVP (Poviderm SK-3) 0.50 ISP
PHASE D
Diazolidinyl Urea (AND) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (GERMALL® PLUS) 0.30 ISP
METHYLPARABEN 0.20 ISP
PHASE E
Acrylates/C12-22 Alkylmethacrylate Copolymer (ALLIANZ™ OPT) 2.10 ISP
-----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine DI water and Versene of Phase A with stirring at RT. Add Lubrajel Oil. Pre-wet Keltrol with Butylene glycol;
Add to Phase A with stirring at RT. When uniform, begin heating to 75-80˚C with stirring.
2. Combine Phase B; heat to 75-80˚C, stir until uniform.
3. Add Phase B to Phase A with homogenization at 75-80˚C. When uniform, turn off heat.
4. Combine Phase C, mix until uniform. Slowly add Phase C to the batch with homogenization at 60˚C.
5. When batch reaches 50˚C, switch to sweep.
6. Individually add Phase D & E ingredients in order with sweep at 45˚C, mixing well between additions.
7. Make up for water loss and sweep to RT.
pH = 5.10
5 panel in-vivo very water resistant SPF test according to FDA protocol by Consumer Product Testing.
34
SPF 15 SUNSCREEN SPRAY WITH ALLIANZ™ OPT
#10783-90-B
PHASE A
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (Methocel E4M) 0.10 Dow Chemical
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA) 0.05 Kelco
PHASE B
Dioctyl Malate (CERAPHYL® 45) 4.00 ISP
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulin TR-2) 0.25 Noveon
PHASE C
Aminomethyl Propanol (AMP-95) 0.21 Angus Chemical
PEG-20 Almond Glycerides (Crovol A-40) 0.20 Croda
Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben
(and) Propylparben (GERMABEN® II-E) 1.00 ISP
--------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Disperse Methocel E4M into 1/5 of the water with stirring at 80˚C. Stir until uniform. Add remaining water and ingredients
from Phase A. Cool to RT.
2. Combine first four ingredients in Phase B. Heat until Escalol 567 dissolves. Cool to 45˚C. Add Permulen TR-2. Stir until
uniform.
3. Add Phase B to Phase A with vigorous stirring at RT. Stir until uniform. Add AMP-95.
4. Add Crovol A-40 and Germaben II-E and Allianz OPT.
pH = 6.60
Viscosity = 1,240 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TA @ 50 RPM)
5 panel in-vivo very water resistant SPF test according to FDA protocol by Consumer Product Testing -
This formulas has passed a 28 day double challenge efficacy test. However, the preservative system has not been optimized
35
BROAD SPECTRUM VERY WATER RESISTANT SPF 12
SUNSCREEN OIL SPRAY WITH ESCALOL® 517
#10888-23-1
PHASE A
Avobenzone (ESCALOL® 517) 3.00 ISP
C12-15 Alkyl Lactate (CERAPHYL® 41) 20.00 ISP
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (GANEX® V-216) 3.00 ISP
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate) 0.10 Tri-K
PHASE B
Dimethicone (SI-TEC™ DM 1 PLUS) 5.00 ISP
PHASE C
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Isopropylparaben
(and) Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben (LIQUAPAR® OPTIMA) 1.00 ISP
Suncare Fragrance RR82895 0.20 Ungerer
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine Phase A ingredients; mix with moderate stirring and heat to 70˚C until completely dissolved.
2. Begin cooling batch; at 50˚C add Phase B mixing well after each addition until clear.
3. At 40˚C add Phase C and mix until clear.
36
MEDIUM SPF SILICONE SUNSCREEN SPRAY
#10888-24-1
PHASE A
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (GANEX® V-216) 3.00 ISP
PHASE B
Phenyl Trimethicone, 200cst 2.00
PHASE C
Fragrance (Unisex Fresh Ozone for Sunscreen #55934) 0.40 FFS
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Isopropylparaben (and)
Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben (LIQUAPAR® OPTIMA) 1.00 ISP
-----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine ingredients in Phase A in order listed; heat to 65-70˚C and mix with moderate stirring until completely dissolved.
2. Start cooling batch. At 50˚C or below, add Phase B in order listed and mix well between each addition until clear.
3. At 40˚C add Phase C and stir until clear.
37
SPF 30 SUNSCREEN STICK
#10818-46-2
PHASE A
Octyl Salicylate (ESCALOL® 587) 5.00 ISP
PROPYLPARABEN 0.10 ISP
Ozokerite (Ozokerite Wax 170 M.P.) 10.00 Frank B.Ross
Paraffin (Paraffin Wax Pastilles SP 1275P) 2.00 Strahl&Pitsch
Polyethylene (Performalene 400) 8.00 New Phase
Microcrystalline Wax (Microcrystalline Wax SP-19) 5.00 Strahl&Pitsch
Stearyl Dimethicone 2.50
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Add all the ingredients in Phase A and heat until all waxy materials are completely melted and the batch is uniform.
2. The temperature at which this happens is approximately 85-90˚C.
3. Cool the batch to 75-78˚C. Fill into containers.
5 Panel in-vivo static SPF test according to FDA protocol conducted by Consumer Product Testing.
38
HIGH SPF SUNSCREEN STICK
#10804-52-2
PHASE A
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate
Crosspolymer (SI-TEC™ RE 100) 1.80 ISP
Ozokerite (Ozokerite Wax SP 1020P) 10.00 Strahl&Pitsch
Polyethylene (AC400) 9.00 Honeywell
Stearyl Dimethicone 4.00
Beeswax (Yellow Beeswax NF Prills) 7.00 Frank B.Ross
Kukui Nut Oil 0.50 Tri-K
Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and) Butylparaben
(LIQUAPAR® OIL) 0.40 ISP
PHASE B
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (and) Alumina (and) Dimethicone
(ESCALOL® T-100) 13.00 ISP
PHASE C
Ozybenzone (ESCALOL® 567) 6.00 ISP
-----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Combine Phase A with mixing and heat to 85-90˚C. When all the waxes melt; cool to 80˚C; add Phase B with mixing.
2. When the batch is uniformed add Phase C in the order listed. Mix well between additions.
3. Pour right before solidification, approximate temperature 65-68˚C.
39
SPF 10 SUNSCREEN STICK
#10507-120-1
PHASE A
Ozokerite (White Ozokerite 170D) 8.00 Strahl & Pitsch
Polyethylene (Performalene PL Polymer) 7.00 New Phase
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate (CERAPHYL® 791) 11.94 ISP
Petrolatum (Petrolatum Penreco Snow) 14.00 Penreco
Myristyl Lactate (CERAPHYL® 50) 4.70 ISP
Cetyl Esters (Protachem MST) 14.50 Protameen
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate) 0.10 Roche
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate) 0.10 Roche
Safflower Oil (and) Euphrasia (Euphrasia Officinalis) Extract (and)
(and) Golden Seal (Hydrastis Canadensis) Root Extract (and)
Thea Sinensis (Camellia Sinensis) Extract (Actiplex 315S) 0.05 Active Organics
PHASE B
VP/Hexadecene Copolymer (and) Alumina (and) Dimethicone
(ESCALOL® T-100) 5.20 ISP
Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and) Myristyl Alcohol
(and) Cetyl Alcohol (PROLIPID®141) 0.50 ISP
Fragrance (Orange Cream FF937) 3.00 Ungerer
Fragrance (Sweetness Enh FF1025) 0.25 Ungerer
----------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Melt Phase A ingredients. Heat to 85-90˚C, until clear.
2. Cool batch to 80˚C.
3. Add Phase B ingredients one at a time. Mix until uniform.
4. Mold samples at 80˚C.
*5 panel in-vivo static SPF test according to FDA protocol conducted by Harrison Research Labs. SPF = 10.50 (5 subjects)
40
SUNSCREEN BALM POT WITH ESCALOL® T-100
#10674-30-1
PHASE A
Beeswax (White Bleached Beeswax) 8.00 Frank B.Ross
Ozokerite (White Ozokerite 170D) 3.80 Strahl & Pitsch
Candelilla (Euphorbia Cerifera) Wax 6.00 Strahl & Pitsch
Hydrogenated Fish Oil (and) Myricyl Alcohol (and) Cerotic Acid
(and) Paraffin (and) Mellisic Acid (Bayberry Wax Sub. #1641) 7.00 Frank B.Ross
Petrolatum (Petrolatum Penreco Snow) 19.00 Penreco
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) (Cetiol SB-45) 1.00 Henkel
PHASE B
Octyl Methoxycinnamate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) VP/Hexadecene
Copolymer (and) Alumina (and) Dimethicone (ESCALOL® T-100) 5.20 ISP
Fragrance Orange Cream FF937 3.00 Ungerer
Fragrance Sweetness Enh FF1025 0.25 Ungerer
--------
100.00%
PROCEDURE
1. Melt Phase A ingredients; heat to 85-90˚C. Mix until uniform.
2. Cool batch to 80˚C.
3. Add Phase B ingredients one at a time. Mix each until uniform.
4. Pour samples at 70˚C.
41
NOTES
42
GLOBAL LOCATIONS FOR SALES & CUSTOMER SERVICE
WORLD HEADQUARTERS
INTERNATIONAL SPECIALTY PRODUCTS
1361 Alps Road, Wayne, New Jersey 07470, USA
Tel: 973-628-4000
www.ispcorp.com info@ispcorp.com
USA & CANADA REGIONAL SALES OFFICES
CENTRAL REGION EASTERN REGION WESTERN REGION CANADA CUSTOMER SERVICE:

LOMBARD, ILLINOIS WAYNE, NEW JERSEY SHERMAN OAKS, CALIFORNIA Tel: +1 905 607-2392 Toll Free: 1 (800) 622-4423
Tel: 1 630 932-4022 Toll Free: 1 (877) 389-3083 Toll Free: 1 (800) 505-8984 Toll Free: 1 (800) 465-5094 Fax: 1 973 628-4001
Toll Free: 1 (800) 323-2272 Fax: 1 973 628-4117 Fax: +1 818-906-3504 Fax: +1 905 607-9086 mmurphy@ispcorp.com
Fax: 1 630 495-0245 emitchell@ispcorp.com ujenkins@ispcorp.com adumancic@ispcorp.com SAMPLE CENTER:
jdressler@ispcorp.com Toll Free: 1 (800) 243-6788
isp@chemicalmarketing.com
LATIN AMERICA CUSTOMER SERVICE
ARGENTINA BRAZIL COLOMBIA MEXICO VENEZUELA

Tel: + 54 11 4314-8971/0659/ Tel: + 55 11 3649-0469 Tel: + 57 (1) 638-6203 Tel: + 52 55 5589-0721 Tel: + 58 212 991-4545
3293 Fax: + 55 11 3835-4212 Fax: + 57 (1) 616-3030/6030 Fax: + 52 55 5589-7345 + 58 212 992-9703
Fax: + 54 11 4314-8976 ispbrasil@ispcorp.com dnelson@ispcorp.com rolmos@ispcorp.com + 58 212 991-7775
ispargentina@ispcorp.com Fax: + 58 212 991-9705
dnelson@ispcorp.com
EUROPE & AFRICA CUSTOMER SERVICE
AFRICA CZECH REPUBLIC ITALY POLAND SWITZERLAND

Tel: +49 (0) 2236 9649-237 Tel: +420 (0) 2 72 123-332 Tel +39 (0) 2 75 419-642 Tel: +48 (0) 22 556 25 20 Tel: +41 (0) 1 439 53-66
Fax: +49 (0) 2236 9649-212 Fax: +420 (0) 2 72 123-305 Fax: +39 (0) 2 75 419-644 Fax: +48 (0) 22 556 25 22 Fax: +41 (0) 1 439 53-68
info.africa@ispcorp.com info.czech@ispcorp.com info.italy@ispcorp.com info.poland@ispcorp.com info.switzerland@ispcorp.com
AUSTRIA FRANCE NETHERLANDS RUSSIA TURKEY
Tel: +43 (0) 1 360 27-71220 Tel: +33 (0) 1 49 93 21-58/59 Tel: +31 (0) 20 65 45-361 Tel: +7 095 232-0214 (Also Middle East)
Fax: +43 (0) 1 360 27-71221 Fax: +33 (0) 1 49 93 21-62 Fax: +31 (0) 20 65 45-368 Fax: +7 095 232-3385 Tel: +90 (0) 216 485-0972
info.austria@ispcorp.com info.france@ispcorp.com info.netherlands@ispcorp.com info.russia@ispcorp.com Fax: +90 (0) 216 485-0973
BELGIUM GERMANY NORDEN SPAIN info.turkey@ispcorp.com
Tel: +32 (0) 2 626-49 30/34 Tel: +49 (0) 2236 9649-260/64/66 (Denmark, Estonia, Iceland, (Also Portugal) info.middleeast@ispcorp.com
Fax: +32 (0) 2 626-49 32 Fax: +49 (0) 2236 9649-295 Finland, Norway, Sweden) Tel: +34 91 375-3026 UK
info.belgium@ispcorp.com info.germany@ispcorp.com Tel: +46 (0) 8 519 920-10 Fax: +34 91 375-3028 Tel: +44 (0) 207 519-5054/55
BULGARIA HUNGARY Fax: +46 (0) 8 519 920-12 info.spain@ispcorp.com Fax: +44 (0) 207 519-5056
Tel: +359 (0) 2 958-2596 Tel: +36 (0) 1 385-8288 info.norden@ispcorp.com info.uk@ispcorp.com
Tel/Fax: +359 (0) 2 850-5480 Fax: +36 (0) 1 466-2550
info.bulgaria@ispcorp.com info.hungary@ispcorp.com
ASIA PACIFIC CUSTOMER SERVICE
N.S.W. AUSTRALIA GUANGZHOU, CHINA MUMBAI, INDIA KOREA TAIWAN

Tel: +612 9648-5177 Tel: +8620 3758-9970 Tel: +9122 2837-0472 Tel: +822 554-6622/6934 Tel: +8862 2508-0212
Fax: +612 9647-1608 Fax: +8620 3758-9907 Tel: +9122 2839-2624 Fax: +822 554-6944 Fax: +8862 2504-3543
roppy@ispcorp.com hwong@ispcorp.com Tel: +9122 2837-0449 ksoh@ispcorp.com cchiang@ispcorp.com
VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA SHANGHAI, CHINA ispindia@bom2.vsnl.net.in MALAYSIA THAILAND
Tel: +613 9899-5082 Tel: +8621 6249-3900 INDONESIA Tel: +603 5513-1448/28/98 Tel: +662 267-8103
Fax: +613 9899-5102 Fax: +8621 6249-3908 Tel: +6221 530-7181/82 Fax: +603 5512-8311 Fax: +662 236-0041
roppy@ispcorp.com hwong@ispcorp.com Fax: +6221 530-7183 ffoo@ispcorp.com pwilliams@ispcorp.com
BEIJING, CHINA HONG KONG mchondrodihardjo@ispcorp.com PHILIPPINES
Tel: +8610 6515-6265 Tel: +852 2881-6108 OSAKA, JAPAN Tel: +632 848-7188
+8610 6515-6409/6474 Fax: +852 2895-1250 Tel: +816 6838-5544 Fax: +632 848-7191
Fax: +8610 6515-6267 hwong@ispcorp.com Fax: +816 6838-5566 bmunasque@ispcorp.com
hwong@ispcorp.com HYDERABAD, INDIA myamashita@ispcorp.com SINGAPORE
CHENGDU, CHINA Tel: +9140 2335-1009 TOKYO, JAPAN Tel: +656 223-3778
Tel: +8628 557-1040 Fax: +9140 2335-1009 Tel: +813 5566-8661 Fax: +656 226-0853
Fax: +8628 557-2313 ispindia@bom2.vsnl.net.in Fax: +813 5566-8682 ffoo@ispcorp.com
hwong@ispcorp.com myamashita@ispcorp.com
™ Trademark registration applied for ® Registered trademark of the ISP group © International Specialty Products. 2002 Designed & Printed in USA. Product Code Sunscreen Formulary 3/2003
The information contained in this brochure and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk after they have performed necessary technical investi-
gations, tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. While the information herein is believed to be reliable, we do not guarantee its accuracy and a purchaser must make its own determination of a product’s suitability for
purchaser’s use, for the protection of the environment, and for the health and safety of its employees and the purchasers of its products. Neither ISP nor its affiliates shall be responsible for the use of this information, or of any
product, method, or apparatus described in this brochure. Nothing herein waives any of ISP’s or its affiliates’ conditions of sale, and WE MAKE NO WARRANTY, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS OF ANY
PRODUCT FOR A PARTICULAR USE OR PURPOSE. We also make no warranty against infringement of any patents by reason of purchaser’s use of any information, product, method or apparatus described in this brochure.

Sunscreen Formulary

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Sunscreen Formulary

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Formulation Guide for Effective Sun

Structure: Required HLB: 10-12

Typical Spectrum of Escalol® 507 in Methanol

Typical Spectrum of Escalol® 517 in Ethanol

Molecular Formula: C18H26O3

Typical Spectra of Escalol® 557 in Ethanol

Typical Spectrum for Escalol® 567 in Ethanol

Molecular Formula: C14H12O6S

Typical Spectrum of Escalol® 577 in Methanol

Typical Spectra of Escalol® 587 in Ethanol

Molecular Formula: C24H27NO2

Typical Spectra of Escalol® 597 in Methanol

Titanium Dioxide vs. Zinc Oxide Absorption

V-216 Melting Point (°C): 35.0-40.0

Film Formers and Water Resistance Agents Applications Guide

R = C12-15 Mixed Alcohols

PROLIPID® 151 Iodine Value: 10.0 Max.

Benefits of PROLIPID® Lamellar Gels

• Enhances the skin’s barrier function

• Structures oil and water phases

* see next page for formulation

Lamellar Gel Sprays

pH = 7.60 Viscosity = 45,600 cps ( Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)

pH = 7.90 Viscosity = 7,200 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)

pH = 7.90 Viscosity = 36,400 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)

pH = 7.43 Viscosity = 22,800 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)

pH = 6.40 Viscosity = 5,480 cps (Brookfield Model RCT, TB @ 10 RPM)

pH = 7.18 Viscosity = 24,000 cps (Brookfield Model RVT TB @ 5 RPM)

Viscosity = 21,200 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, Spindle TB @ 5 RPM)

Viscosity = 75,000 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, Spindle TB @ 5 RPM)

pH = 7.30 Viscosity = 55, 200 cps (Brookfield RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)

pH = 7.20 Viscosity = 24,800 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)

pH = 6.44 Viscosity = 17,600 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)

USA & CANADA REGIONAL SALES OFFICES

CENTRAL REGION EASTERN REGION WESTERN REGION CANADA CUSTOMER SERVICE:

LATIN AMERICA CUSTOMER SERVICE

ARGENTINA BRAZIL COLOMBIA MEXICO VENEZUELA

EUROPE & AFRICA CUSTOMER SERVICE

AFRICA CZECH REPUBLIC ITALY POLAND SWITZERLAND

ASIA PACIFIC CUSTOMER SERVICE

N.S.W. AUSTRALIA GUANGZHOU, CHINA MUMBAI, INDIA KOREA TAIWAN

You might also like