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Screen-Printing of Cotton with Natural Pigments: Evaluation of Color and

Fastness Properties of the Prints

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DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2016.1212761

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Screen-Printing of Cotton with Natural Pigments:

Evaluation of Color and Fastness Properties of the
Prints

Georgios Savvidis, Vaggelis Karanikas, Maria Zarkogianni, Ioannis

Eleftheriadis, Nikolaos Nikolaidis & Eforia Tsatsaroni

To cite this article: Georgios Savvidis, Vaggelis Karanikas, Maria Zarkogianni, Ioannis
Eleftheriadis, Nikolaos Nikolaidis & Eforia Tsatsaroni (2016): Screen-Printing of Cotton with
Natural Pigments: Evaluation of Color and Fastness Properties of the Prints, Journal of Natural
Fibers, DOI: 10.1080/15440478.2016.1212761

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JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS
http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/15440478.2016.1212761

Screen-Printing of Cotton with Natural Pigments: Evaluation of

Color and Fastness Properties of the Prints
Georgios Savvidisa, Vaggelis Karanikasb, Maria Zarkogiannib, Ioannis Eleftheriadisb,
Nikolaos Nikolaidisb, and Eforia Tsatsaronib
a
Department of Clothing Design and Technology, Technological Educational Institute of Central Macedonia, Kilkis,
Greece; bDepartment of Chemistry, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Thessaloniki, Greece

ABSTRACT KEYWORDS
Eleven natural pigments were selected for the production of environment- Color measurement; fastness
friendly cotton prints. Physicochemical properties pH, conductivity, viscosity tests; natural pigments;
of the printing pastes were measured in order to evaluate their stability and printing
suitability for printing. Quality control standard tests and color measure- 颜色测量; 坚牢度测试;
天然色素; 印花
ments were carried out for all the prints with their fastness properties
ranging from poor to very good in some cases.

摘要
在研究中，选择了11种天然色素来生产环保印花棉布，并测量印花浆的
物理化学性质pH、传导性、粘度，从而评估其稳定性和印花适用性。研
究结果表明，在某些情况下，印花的坚牢度性质参差不齐，需对所有印
花进行质量控制标准测试和颜色测量。

Introduction
The use of natural colorants has been flourishing in Europe for thousands of years. It is part of Europe’s
cultural identity. In ancient times dyed textiles were symbols of status and, because of their expense,
reserved only for the wealthiest classes. Early dye sources included vegetable, animal, and mineral
extracts. Madder, indigo and saffron were the three ancient dyes used in India since c.a. 2500 B.C.
(Lillie 1979; Harvard 1968; Ciba 1968).
With the advent of synthetic dyes and pigments the use of natural colorants for textile applications
almost disappeared. The reasons for the popularity of synthetic dyes are mainly because they are simple
to produce in large quantities and can be manufactured at a reasonable price. They can also provide a
variety of colors and can produce finished articles of high color fastness to meet today’s requirements.
(Glover 1998; Schweppe 1992).
However, manufacturing synthetic dyes/pigments suffers from various environmental limitations.
In recent years, a resurgence of interest in natural dyes has occurred in order to provide environment-
friendly textile materials with no toxicity and allergic reactions to meet high consumer demands in terms of
health and safety. (Taylor 1986, Tsatsaroni and Eleftheriadis 1994, Tsatsaroni et al. 1998, Deo and Desai
1999, Cristea and Vilarem 2006, Bechtold et al. 2007, Shankar and Vankar 2007, Vankar et al. 2008,
Savvidou and Economides 2007, Oda 2001).Natural, “green” dyes/pigments can be considered as an
alternative to the synthetic dyes if they can be produced at a comparable price, and exhibit similar fastness
characteristics to the synthetic colorants. Contrarily, there are no natural film-forming polymers to be
deposited on fiber surfaces able to withstand repeatable washing cycles. The naturals thickners such as guar,
starch ether, modified starch ethers, alginates can only act as thickeners but not surface-deposited films and

CONTACT Eforia Tsatsaroni tsatsaro@chem.auth.gr Department of Chemistry, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Thessaloniki,
Greece.
© 2016 Taylor & Francis
2 G. SAVVIDIS ET AL.

go away in a simple washing cycle. Their textile use is restricted to be used as “vehicle thickeners” for dyes
such as acid, disperse, reactive, and acrylic.The aim of this work was to investigate the potential use of a
series of natural pigments (Table 1, Figure 4) as an environmentally acceptable replacement of synthetic
pigments for the production of environment-friendly cotton prints through the formulation of suitable
printing techniques. Although a great volume of literature is referring on natural dyes and dyeing no
references on printing with natural pigments were found apart from historical pigments before the modern
era, particularly for bodily ornamentation, cosmetics, and textile dyeing. Printing with natural pigments
avoiding the use of organically synthesized pigments many of which are based on forbidden amines is of
great importance as the most popular yellow pigments in the textile market are C.I Pigment Yellow 12, 13,
15 all based in dichlorobenzidine (Colour Index Edition 2/1999). The printing paste prepared complies
with the most stringent requirements such as Oeko Tex 100 for baby clothing (Oeko Tex 2015).
Physicochemical properties pH, conductivity, viscosity of the printing pastes were measured in order to
evaluate their stability and suitability for printing. Quality control standard tests and color measurements
were carried out for all the prints.

Materials and methods

Materials
In Table 1, the pigments used in the present study with their botanical and the C.I. names and numbers
are given. All pigments supplied by Alps Industries Ltd, India, were used without further purification
for the printing processes. Cotton samples (1/24, 150 g/m2) supplied by KYKE S.A were, pretreated
with 0.5 g L−1Widet MS/V (non ionic surfactant supplied by Prochimica, Italy) and 1 g L−1 sodium
carbonate for 30 min at 95 °C, followed by thorough rinsing in distilled water. The cotton samples were
then left to dry in the open air and were used for printing. All constituents for the preparation of the
printing paste namely the acrylic binder Cepolbind 1102 N, the acrylic thickener Cepolclear HC were
supplied by INFA SRL, Italy. The discharging agent used Decrolin was supplied by BASF.
Tetrachlorethylene (Riedel de Haen) was used for the dry cleaning fastness test.

Apparatus
A Zeltex Vistacolor dyeing machine (Zeltex, Inc., USA) was used for the wash fastness tests of the
cotton samples. A Macbeth CE3000 Spectrophotometer (UV and specular component included,
large area view, 25.4 mm diameter, Kollmorgen Instruments, U.S.A.) was used for color measure-
ments. A Shimadzu UV-2101 Spectrophotometer (Shimadzu Europa GmbH, Germany) was used for
obtaining the absorption spectra. A Q-Sun (Xe-1-B) Xenon test chamber (Q-LAB, USA) was used for
the light fastness tests. An ASDL International Ltd (Shirley Developments Ltd, UK) apparatus was
used for the rub fastness tests (wet and dry). A VeriVide D65 (Leslie Huble Ltd, UK) color

Table 1. Pigments used.

Pigment Botanical name C.I. name /number
1 Annatto Bixa orellana Natural Orange 4 /C.I. 75120
2 Kamala Mallotus philipinensis Natural Yellow 25 /C.I. 75310
3 Madder Rubia cardifolia Natural Red 16 /C.I. 75340, 75350,75410
4 Cutch Acacia catechu Natural Brown 3 /C.I. 75250
5 Himalayan rhubarb Rheum emodi Natural Yellow 23 /C.I. 75400
6 Pomegranate fruit Punica granatum Natural Yellow 7 /C.I.
7 Golden Dock Rumex maritimus ———
8 Red sandalwood Phenocarpus santalinus Natural Red 22 /C.I. 75510, 75540,
9 Lac dye—S Kerria laccae 75550, 75560
10 Lac dye—M Kerria laccae ———
11 Indigo Indigofera indica Natural Red 25 /C.I. 75450
Natural Blue 1 /C.I. 75780, 75790
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 3

assessment cabinet was used for the evaluation of color change and evaluation of the fastness tests. A
SDL International model M 231 Perspirometer was used for the perspiration fastness tests.

Printing
The printing paste (1 kg) was prepared by adding 40 g pigment in 792 mL water at 60°C under
stirring for 5 min. 150 g Cepolbind 1102 binder was added to colorant solution under stirring for
5 min. 18 g Cepolclear HC thickener was added drop wise under stirring in the above mixture, until
the appropriate viscosity was achieved. The discharge printing paste was prepared as above by
adding 50 g Decrolin to 950 g of the printing paste. Cotton samples were all pretreated as mentioned
in 2.1. For the conventional printing the fixing was done by thermofixation 4 min at 150° C. Printed
samples were dried and then thermofixed at 150° C for 4 min.

Conductivity, viscosity, and pH measurements

Conductivity measurements were performed using a Crison Conductimeter Basic 30 Crison,
Barcelona, Spain) and pH measurements were made using a WTW Microprocessor 535 pH meter
(Los Angeles, California, USA); viscosity measurements were made using a Viscostar plus+ H
(Fungilab, Barcelona, Spain) viscometer. The above properties were measured at room temperature
and atmospheric pressure for 1, 3, 5, 7, 16 days

Fastness determination
The prints were subjected to: wash, light, organic solvents (dry cleaning), rub (wet, dry), perspiration
(acid, alkaline), bleaching: sodium hypochlorite, dry heat, migration of the pigment into polyvinyl
chloride coatings according to following standards, BS 1006: 1990 CO6, BO2, XO5, X12, EO4, NO1,
PO1, X10, respectively (The Society of Dyers and Colourist 1999).

Color measurement
This was done according to the CIELAB 1976 and the modified CIELCH system (D65/10°).
Reproducibility was checked by taking four measurements and recording the variation in percentage
reflectance values over the range 400–800 nm (Rigg 1997)

Results and discussion

Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly
printed fabrics, the color is bonded with the fabric, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is
related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one color, in printing
one or more colors are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns. A traditional
textile printing technique is the screen-printing, in which colorants containing dyes, thickeners, and the
substances necessary for fixing the color on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern.
In Table 1, the pigments used in this work with their botanical name and their CI name/number
are presented. The chemical structures of the same pigments are given in Figure 4. The printing
paste prepared was made with free formaldehyde acrylic binder considered to be environment-
friendly and natural colorants. No additional crosslinkers containing formaldehyde were used in the
preparation of the printing paste. The printing paste prepared complies with the most stringent
requirements such as Oeko Tex 100 Class 1 for baby clothing (Table 1).
In Figures 1, 3 the values of pH and conductivity versus time in various time intervals 1, 3, 5, 7, and
16 days are given. Viscosity values were taken once a day until day 16 (Figure 2). Monitoring this set of
properties versus time is a way of evaluation the suitability of the printing pastes (Figures 1–3).
4 G. SAVVIDIS ET AL.

Figure 1. Plots of pH values versus time for the natural pigments pastes 1–11.

Figure 2. Plots of viscosity values versus time for the natural pigments pastes 1–11.

Figure 3. Plots of conductivity values versus time for the natural pigments pastes 1–11.
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 5

A satisfactory pH stability is observed for the all pigments until day 16 of measurement. Annatto
presents the highest pH value ≈8 and lac dye M the lowest ≈4 (Figure 1). This could be explained
with the chemical structure of the pigments (Figure 4)

1. ANNATTO (BIXA ORELLANA) - C.I. Natural Orange 4

Main colouring components bixin, norbixin

CH3 CH3 O

HOOC OCH3
CH3 CH3

4. CUTCH (ACACIA CATECHU) - C.I. Natural Brown 3 (THAR)

Main colouring components catechin/flavonoids

OH

HO O
OH

OH
OH
6. POMEGRANATE FRUIT (PUNICA GRANATUM) - C.I. Natural Yellow 7

Main pigments anthocyanins

OH OH
O
HO OH
C O O

HO C OH
O C O
O
9. LAC DYE (KERRIA LACCAE) - C.I. Natural Red 25 (RHINE-S)

Main colourin component laccaic acid

CH2CH2NHCOCH3

OH O COOH
COOH

OH
HO OH
OH O
11. INDIGO (INDIGOFERA TINCTORIA) - C.I. Natural Blue 1

Main colouring component indigo

O H
C N
C C
N C
H O

Figure 4. Chemical structure of the natural pigments Annatto(Bixa Orellana)-C.I. Natural Orange 4 and Lac dye (Kerria Laccae)-C.I.
Natural Red 25 (Rhine-S).
6 G. SAVVIDIS ET AL.

Lac dye has two carboxylic groups adjacent to/conjugated with the anthraquinone carbonyl
groups. These carbonyl groups increase the ionization of the carboxy groups and consequently
their acidity. Contrarily the acidity of bixincarboxy group (annatto) adjacent to the carotenoid long
chain (18 carbon atoms) of bixin is reduced, resulting in a pH in the neutral region (≈8).
The starting viscosity values of all the pigments printing pastes are 1.7–2.5 cP presenting an
upward trend to values over 5 cP(Figure 2). Such viscosity values are prohibitive for use in screen-
printing. Limit viscosity values in this case are 2.5–3 cP (the viscosity of commercial yellow, red and
blue printing pastes measured simultaneously are 2.4, 2.6, and 2.9, respectively).
The conductivity stability of all the pigments used is also very satisfactory and with low values,
kamala 2, cutch 4 and indigo 11 having the lowest values (Figure 3).

Fastness properties
The conventionally printed fabrics were subjected to several standard fastness tests commonly
performed for printed textile fabrics: Wash, perspiration, dry cleaning, dry heat, light, rub,
bleaching fastness tests, migration into PVC. In Tables 2, 3 the above fastness values are presented
(Tables 2, 3).
Actually, most natural dyestuffs have poor color fastness to light in comparison with synthetic
dyes. The color fastness values to light rating of 3 or 3–4 are above the lower limit for application as
a textile dye. From Table 2 it is concluded that the sample printed with pomegranate fruit 6 presents
the best light fastness value (5 degrees of the blue scale 1–8), while the samples printed with cutch 4
and lac dye M 10 present good light fastness values (4 degrees of the blue scale 1–8) and sample
printed with annatto 1 acceptable value (3/4). Dry rub fastness is generally acceptable, contrarily wet
rub fastness presents low, unacceptable values. With the exception of indigo 11 and pomegranate
fruit 6 (rates 4/5 and 4 of the 1–5 grey scale) the other pigments have medium to low fastness
bleaching with sodium hypochlorite, while the same pigments indigo 11 (5) and pomegranate fruit 6
as well as the lac dyes S and M (4/5) present excellent to very good fastness to migration on PVC.
The values of fastness to migration on PVC range between 4 (good) and 2 (low) rate of the grey scale
1–5. The sample printed with indigo 11 presents the best change in color value 4/5 during the wash
fastness test (Table 3). All the other pigment prints have lower values (good 4 to medium ¾ or even
lower). Change in color values during perspiration, dry cleaning, and dry heat fastness tests were
generally improved (good to very good depending on the test) for all the prints. Regarding staining
of the multifiber cotton, wool, diacetate, and polyamide fibers were stained during wash- and
perspiration fastness tests, while staining values during dry cleaning and dry heat fastness tests are
very good to excellent (4/5–5) for all the pigments tested. Among the fiber stripes of the multifiber
wool stripe had the lowest staining fastness (2/3–3/4) in all the fastness tests (Table 3).

Table 2. Fastness properties (light, rub, bleaching, migration into PVC) of the pigments.
Rubfastness Dry Wet
Rubfastness
Pigment Lightfastness Dry Wet Bleaching sodium hypochlorite Migration into PVC
1 Annatto 3/4 5 4 1/2 3
2 Kamala 3 3 2/3 3 2
3 Madder 2 4/5 3 1 3/4
4 Cutch 4 5 2/3 3 4
5 Himalayan 2 5 2 1/2 4
6 rhubarb 5 4/5 2/3 4 4/5
7 Pomegranate fruit 2/3 5 2 1/2 4
8 Golden Dock 2 4/5 2 2 3
9 Red sandalwood 2/3 4/5 1/2 1/2 4/5
10 Lac dye S 4 3/4 1/2 1/2 4/5
11 Lac dye M 3 4 1/2 4/5 5
Indigo
 JOURNAL OF NATURAL FIBERS 7

Table 3. Wash, perspiration, dry cleaning, and dry heat fastness values of the pigments used.
Color Color Staining(CS)
Probe Change(CC) Acetate Cotton PA PES PAN Wool
1 WF 1/2 3/4 2/3 3/4 4/5 5 4/5
PFac PFal 2/3 2/3 3/4 4 3/4 3 3 3/4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 33
DC 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
2 WF 4 4/5 5 2/3 5 5 4/5
PFac PFal 55 55 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 55 55 4/5 4/5
DC 3/4 5 4 4/5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
3 WF 2/3 4 4/5 3/4 5 5 4
PFac PFal 33 3 3/4 3 3/4 2/3 2/3 45 4/5 5 33
DC 2/3 5 4/5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 4/5 4/5 4/5 5 5
4 WF 2* 5 4 4/5 4/5 5 4
PFac PFal 55 3/4 3/4 2/3 3 3/4 3 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 33
DC 4/5 5 5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
5 WF 2 4 4 3/4 4/5 5 4
PFac PFal 4/5 4/5 33 33 2/3 3 44 44 33
DC 4/5 5 4/5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 4/5 4/5 5 5
6 WF 3/4 5 4/5 5 5 5 4/5
PFac PFal 4/5 4/5 3/4 3/4 33 33 3/4 3/4 3/4 3/4 33
DC 2/3 5 5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
7 WF 2/3 5 4 4/5 5 5 4/5
PFac PFal 3/4 3/4 3/4 3 33 33 4 3/4 4 3/4 33
DC 4/5 5 5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
8 WF 2 4 4 3/4 4/5 5 4
PFac PFal 4/5 4/5 3/4 3 2/3 2/3 33 3/4 3 3/4 3 33
DC 3 5 4/5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
9 WF 2/3 5 4/5 5 5 5 5
PFac PFal 44 3/4 3 2/3 2/3 33 43 3/4 3 2/3 2/3
DC 4/5 5 5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
10 WF 3 5 4/5 4/5 5 5 5
PFac PFal 4/5 4/5 3/4 3/4 2/3 3 2/3 3 43 43 3 3/4
DC 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
11 WF 4/5 4/5 4/5 4 5 5 5
PFac PFal 55 5 4/5 4/5 4/5 55 5 4/5 5 4/5 55
DC 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
DH 5 5 5 5 5 5 5
WF = Wash fastness, PFac = Perspiration acid fastness, PFal = Perspiration alkaline fastness
DC = Dry cleaning fastness, DH = Dry heat fastness, 2* = change of hue

Color measurement
The colorimetric coordinates L*, a*, b*, C, h°, and K/S values of the printed fabrics are given in
Table 4 (Table 4).
The h° values of the pigments in Table 4 are in satisfactory agreement with the visual impression
e.g. 2.26 (red-yellow) to 79.19 (yellow-red) with the exception of indigo 11 with h° value 232.42
(blue-green).
K/S values were calculated using the equation:

2
K= ¼ ð1  RÞ ¼ a  c
S 2R
8 G. SAVVIDIS ET AL.

Table 4. Colorimetric data L*, a*, b*, C*, h°, and k/s values of the printed samples.
Probe L* a* b* C* h° K/S
1 75.60 12.79 44.33 46.14 73.90 2.79
2 73.92 6.30 33.00 33.59 79.19 3.35
3 61.90 14.18 19.25 23.91 53.62 2.17
4 56.65 15.24 29.32 33.04 62.53 4.33
5 51.00 10.22 26.28 28.20 68.74 5.64
6 32.99 13.42 29.97 32.84 65.87 12.51
7 44.74 12.87 22.03 25.52 59.71 8.62
8 38.15 21.33 20.38 29.50 43.70 9.58
9 41.65 14.27 0.56 14.28 2.26 4.18
10 48.10 17.99 1.66 18.07 5.28 8.23
11 51.92 –2.91 –3.78 4.76 232.42 1.95

Where: K = absorbance coefficient, S = scattering coefficient, R = % reflectance, C = dye

Concentration on the fabric, α = constant
K/S values were satisfactory with pomegranate fruit 6 presenting the highest value 12.58.

Conclusions
In an attempt to formulate a regular protocol for the printing with natural dyes/pigments based on
new environmental requirements, printing of cotton fabrics was made with 11 natural pigments
using the flat bed screen printing technique. Measurement of the rheological and physical properties
of the printing pastes pH, conductivity and viscosity confirmed its stability and suitability for screen
printing. Wash, perspiration, dry cleaning, dry heat, light, rub, bleaching, migration into PVC
fastness properties of the printed fabrics were also measured. Mainly pomegranate fruit and indigo
and secondarily cutch, lac dyes and annatto presented very good fastness properties, thus possibly
paving the way for the development of a new range of natural environmentally friendly dyes/
pigments able to be applied by conventional dyeing and printing methods on natural fibers

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