Parambassis ranga - Indian Glass Fish

Classification
Ambassidae

Distribution
India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bangaldesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia, Cambodia, Japan.

Habitat
It usually inhabits areas of slow moving or still water.

Maximum Standard Length

3.2″ (8cm).

Aquarium SizeTOP ↑
An aquarium with dimensions of 80 ∗ 30 ∗ 30 cm or equivalent should be the smallest considered.

Maintenance
A dark substrate will help to make this shy species less nervous and encourage it to display its best colours. Provide cover by
planting some areas of the tank densely, along with some floating vegetation. Rocks and driftwood can also be used. The fish
can live in both freshwater and slightly brackish conditions.

Water Conditions
Temperature: 68-86°F (20-30°C)
pH: 6.5-8.0
Hardness: 8-20°H

Diet
Relatively unfussy and will accept most live, frozen and dried foods

Behaviour and CompatibilityTOP ↑

P. ranga is peaceful and shy and should not be combined with vigorous or aggressive species. The choice of tankmates is
also governed by the type of water in which it is being kept. In freshwater conditions, it can be kept with barbs, livebearers,
smaller rainbowfish, loaches and many other small tropicals. In the brackish aquarium, mollies, bumblebee gobies and
chromides are all possibilities.
The Indian glass fish is a shoaling species and will not do well if kept singly or in pairs. Aim for a group of at least 6. Males do
become somewhat territorial when spawning but physical damage is rare.

Sexual Dimorphism
Males have blue edging to the dorsal and anal fins and are a slightly deeper yellow on the body than females. These
differences are more apparent when the fish are breeding, as the colours become more intense. The swim bladder (which is
clearly visible) has a pointed back edge in males.

Reproduction
Not too difficult, although the fry are difficult to raise. Provide the fish with a heavily planted aquarium of around 30″ x 12″ x
12″. Stock it with 6-8 adult fish. It is an advantage if the tank is situated so that it recieves direct sunlight in the morning.
Condition the group with a high quality, varied diet. During this period, maintain them at a temperature of around 70-75°F.
A pH around neutral should be fine.
When the fish are inbreeding condition (look for an intensifying of the colours of the males, and round bellies on the females),
perform a large water change with warmer water (around 80-84°F) in the evening. The fish should spawn the following
morning. Each pair may deposit up to 200 eggs, and these will be found amongst the vegetation, stuck to plant leaves and
stems. The adult fish can be removed at this point.
The eggs are very sensitive to fungussing and the entire tank should be dosed with a weak solution of methylene blue, or
similar, in order to prevent this. They will hatch in around 24 hours and will be seen hanging from the plants. They
become free swimming in another 3-4 days. They are quite difficult to raise, as they do not actively seek food. Instead they
wait for morsels to drift by. We suggest feeding quite heavily with brine shrimp nauplii and creating a slow current in the tank.
Regular small water changes will be required in order to keep the water conditions perfect.

NotesTOP ↑
Previously known as Chanda ranga, the common name of this species arose because it’s translucent skin means that the
bone structure and internal organs are clearly visible. For many years it has been artificially injected with luminous dyes on fish
farms in Asia and then sold as “Painted” glass fish or “Disco fish”. This abhorrent act involves injecting the fish repeatedly with a
large needle and most fish do not survive more than a few months afterwards. Whilst painted fish of this and other species are
still available in many countries, protracted campaigning has seen them virtually removed from UK stores.
Now to dispel a myth about glass fish. According to most resources (including the majority of internet sites),
this species requires the addition of salt to its water to keep it at it’s best, often stating that it is susceptible to fungal infections
when kept in freshwater. This is simply not true. Whilst the fish can indeed be acclimatised to mildly brackish water (and are
found in brackish conditions in some of their habitats in nature), it is found most often in freshwater. Additionally, many of
these freshwater habitats actually contain quite soft, acidic water. When purchasing this fish, ask your dealer what conditions
they are being kept in. If they are in freshwater, don’t be tempted to add salt to the tank when you get home, as there is no
need.
It is not inconceivable that a combination of the brackish myth, the susceptibility of the painted fish to disease and the fact that
this is quite a short-lived species have given rise to the commonly held belief that this fish is hard to keep. In reality, it is a
pretty and peaceful species, well-suited to many community tanks. One final point to note is that there are several
other species in the genus which are often imported as P. ranga, as they look very similar. The most common of these are P.
lala and P. siamensis. Lala can be distinguished by it’s small (1 1/2″) adult size and the presence of three vertical bars behind
it’s eye. Ranga has a dark area behind the eye, whilst siamensis has no patterning here. P. siamensis is also a more elongate
fish than the other 2 species.

“Parambassis ranga – Indian Glass Fish”

arambassis ranga
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Parambassis ranga

Conservation status

Least Concern (IUCN 3.1) [1]

Scientific classification

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Chordata

Class: Actinopterygii

Family: Ambassidae

Genus: Parambassis

Species: P.  ranga

Binomial name
 Parambassis ranga

(F. Hamilton, 1822)

Synonyms

Chanda ranga F. Hamilton, 1822

Parambassis ranga, commonly known as the Indian glassy fish, Indian glassy perch,

or Indian X-ray fish, is a species of freshwater fish in the Asiatic
glassfish family Ambassidae of order Perciformes. It is native to an area of South
Asia from Pakistan to Malaysia.[2]
The Indian glassy fish has an extraordinarily transparent body, revealing its bones and internal
organs; the male develops a dark edge to the dorsal fin. The fish grows to a maximum overall
length of 80 mm (3.1 in).[3]
It occurs in standing water, especially in impoundments, and it breeds prolifically during the
rainy season. The species feeds on crustaceans, annelid worms, and other invertebrates. It is,
in turn, prey for larger fish, including snakeheads (family Channidae).
The Indian glassy fish is not important as a food fish for humans, but is very common in
the aquarium trade.
Formerly classified as Chanda ranga, the species is also known as the Indian glassfish, Indian
glass perch, and Siamese glassfish.

In the aquarium[edit]
Glassfish have been kept in aquarium for many years, but have a reputation for being delicate
and difficult to keep. This may be related to a persistent myth that these fish
need brackish water. In the wild, they more commonly inhabit fresh water, and in captivity do
well in slightly soft to moderately hard dGH 7–19, slightly acidic to slightly alkaline
water pH 6.5–7.5. They can tolerate a temperature range of 20–30 °C (68–86 °F).[4]
These fish swim at the middle and lower levels of the tank, and will take most small live and
frozen foods. In general, they tend not to eat dried foods (such as flake). [5] The fish reproduce by
laying the eggs (females) and then the males fertilise the eggs.
Dyed glassfish[edit]
Indian glassy fish sold to hobbyists have often been "painted", which involves injecting coloured
dye into the fish's transparent tissue to make them more attractive to hobbyists. [6] These
coloured fish are often called "disco fish". Inexperienced fishkeepers are often tricked into
believing such fish are natural or that the process is painless and causes no harm. [7]
A 'painted' glassfish

Fish thus treated have suffered trauma and are susceptible to disease,
including Ichthyophthirius multifiliis infection, fin rot, and the viral disease lymphocystis. The
artificial coloration often fades within a short time. Healthy, unpainted specimens may live three
to four years in captivity, but such individuals may be difficult to find in some localities.

Parambassis ranga
 
Overview:
These beautiful and delicate fish have the distinction of being so transparent that their bones and internal
organs can be easily seen. When kept in groups of 6 or more, their timid personalities are replaced by bold
and curious natures. They can be easily kept in freshwater, and also have the option of being kept in very
mild brackish environment.
Quick stats:

Listed tank sizes are the minimum

Size: Adult Male/unsexed: 3.15 in (8 cm)
Tank: School of 6: 25 gallons (94.g liters) or larger.
Strata: Middle to Bottom (demersal)
pH: pH range: 7.0 - 8.0
Hardness: Soft to medium. dH range: 9 – 19.
 
Specific Gravity: 1 –1.010 (Can be kept in very mild brackish or freshwater.)
Temperature: 68°F to 86°F (20-20°C)
Classification:

Order: Perciformes
Family: Ambassidae
Genera: Parambassis
Species: Parambassis ranga

 
Common name:

Indian Glass Fish, Indian X ray fish, Indian glassy fish

Distribution

Asia: Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia in rivers, lakes, standing water and
reservoirs; both brackish and freshwater.

General Body Form:

This delicate fish is deep-bodied and laterally compressed. Fins are long and rounded with the exception of
two separate, pointed dorsal fins; caudal fin is moderately long and forked. Back is arched. Mouth is small
and dorsally-located. Forehead is indented slightly. Eyes are relatively large.

Coloration:
Body and fins are primarily silvery transparent with a pale amber to green iridescence. Spine and other
bones and internal organs are clearly visible. Dorsal and anal fins of males are edged in greyish-blue.
When males are in spawning condition, their amber color intensifies and fins may display a coral color
proximally.

Note:
Indian glassy fish have often been sold as having been "dyed" or "painted," a process by which numerous
injections of colored dye are made into the fish's transparent tissue to make them more brightly colored.
The process is cruel, far from painless, opens the fish up to opportunistic diseases such as fin rot, ich and
Lymphocystis, and has been shown to shorten their lives considerably (from 6 months instead of their
natural lifespan of approximately 5 – 8 years.)

Diet:
Omnivorous (with preference for proteins): In the wild, this species feeds on crustaceans, earth worms
and other invertebrates. In aquaria, P. ranga does best on a mix of live and frozen foods, including
bloodworm, tubifex, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and insect larvae such as glassworm. Flake foods are also
 eagerly accepted, but shouldn't be fed exclusively. Feed small amounts once or twice daily.

Maintenance:
These shy, nervous fish prefer a dark substrate with numerous hiding places composed of caves, roots,
rocks, driftwood and plants. Whether you choose to go brackish or freshwater will have an impact on which
plants you'll have to choose from. Java fern and Java moss are both hardy enough for brackish conditions,
they propagate well and are easily attached to driftwood, rocks or structures. For best success, low lighting
(of 45 – 60 watts) is recommended. This might be accomplished by keeping the tank by a window with
moderate morning sunlight. With higher light and the addition of CO2, both plants grow quickly and lushly,
so ensure your water column contains the sufficient nutrients. Parambassis ranga feel most secure in
groups of 6 or more, maintaining a ratio of one male to one female. They're calm in mixed communities
which may include similarly gentle species such as danios, dwarf rainbowfish, mollies, platys and other
non-fin nippers in a freshwater aquarium. For very mild brackish conditions, chromides, bumblebee or
knight gobies would make an excellent community. Only during spawning might the male Indian glassy
fish become territorial, but it is rarely aggressive to the point of physical violence. This species does best in
mature tanks, so ensure your tank's been set up for a while before purchasing P. ranga.

   

Biotope:
Brackish or Freshwater: Because this fish is found in both slightly brackish and freshwater conditions, the
fishkeeper may choose to replicate either habitat (however more fish are found in freshwater
distributions.) It's recommended to ask the seller whether the fish has been kept in brackish or freshwater.
In this way, if a change from brackish to freshwater needs to be made, it can be done gradually and
without harm to the fish. Clean, well-oxygenated water heated consistently to 68 – 86°F (20°C - 30°C)
best replicates riverine and lacustrine habitats P. ranga is native to.

Breeding:

Oviparous: Eggscatters: Moderately Difficult. Sexual dimorphism: Males have more pointed swim bladders,
longer dorsal and anal fins with blue-gray edging and intensified yellow coloration over their bodies,
particularly during spawning conditions (Females have more rounded swim bladders and more muted
colors.) Spawning typically happens during the monsoon season during warmer weather when with rain
softening areas of standing water. As Indian glassy fish are prone to eating their own eggs, it's advisable
to set up a separate tank for spawning and raising the fry. Optimal conditions would include a tank with a
mature sponge-filtered keeping the water at approximately 84°F with light water current. It should be
 heavily planted with java ferns or similarly broad-leaved plants. Choose healthy females and place
them in the breeding tank for at least a week prior to spawning. During this time, feed them a diet high in
live proteins to help them develop their roe. Maintaining a 1 male to 1 female ratio, introduce males into
the breeding tank at night. Spawning occurs at dawn when females scatter their eggs across the plants
and males follow after fertilizing them. Remove adults from the tank as soon as spawning has been
completed to keep adults from eating the eggs. Fungus on eggs is common and a few drops of
methylene blue may help prevent this. Eggs hatch within 24 hours, fry remain attached to their
leaves (living off their yolk sacs) for the next three to four days. Once they're free-swimming, start
by offering infusoria, working up to brine shrimp naupalii. At this point they'll growing rapidly and can eat
larger foods, so move larger fry to another aquarium so smaller fry aren't out-competed for food.
Frequent, gentle water changes are essential to maintaining the health of the fry and accelerating
metabolisms.

References:
Indian glassy fish
Parambassis ranga, Indian Glass Fish
Java fern

Brackish Aquarium Setup

Most aquarists will easily recognize the standard tank types: Freshwater, Fish-Only
Marine, Fish-Only-With-Live Rock, and Reef Aquarium. There's another type of
aquarium, however, that is a bit more rare, though is gaining in popularity. This is the
brackish aquarium setup.
Brackish water is somewhere between "pure" freshwater and ocean water
in salinity. In nature, brackish water is created by swamps and marshes that are
more or less at sea level and on a coast, estuaries, and, rarely, landlocked bodies of
water that happen to have salt in them.

Why Brackish?
Brackish aquariums have both advantages and disadvantages when compared to
a freshwater aquarium setup or marine setup. They are a little more difficult to
keep up than a standard freshwater aquarium, but are quite a bit easier to keep than
a standard marine aquarium. There is a pretty limited array of fish that can live in a
brackish aquarium, but the ones that will survive are often fairly hardy, there are
several very peaceful species, and there are a few odd species that prefer brackish
water. Brackish species also have the advantage of being very adaptable as far as
water parameters go. As long as waste products (ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate) are
all kept at safe levels, the fish will do fine if there is a change in pH, hardness, or
salinity, as long as the change happens gradually. Because these fish naturally live
in an environment where water parameters may change from square foot to square
foot, a super-stable environment is not quite as important.
Brackish Tank Setup
Setting a brackish aquarium up can easily follow the standard freshwater setup. The
one thing to be sure about is that you are not buying any equipment that will be
susceptible to damage from salt. It's best to buy aquarium filters that are for either
saltwater or freshwater aquariums, and the same with any other equipment /
chemicals you get.
The first place where the setup diverges from a standard freshwater tank is, of
course, filling the tank. A typical brackish tank has a specific gravity between 1.005
and 1.010, but can range anywhere between true freshwater and true saltwater (up
to 1.020). Most fish will have a preferred specific gravity, but as I mentioned above,
most brackish fish are pretty adaptable in regards to this. It's best to do research into
the fish you plan on keeping, making sure that all of the fish have compatible specific
gravity requirements.
Once you've determined the specific gravity you're aiming for, use marine aquarium
salt (not therapeutic stuff that is sold for freshwater fish), following the instructions
that came with it. You'll need a hydrometer (or if you want to make things really
easy and have some money to blow, a refractometer) to measure the specific
gravity. Pay attention to the amount of salt you use. Because you don't have to
maintain a very exact salinity in a brackish aquarium, you won't have to check the
specific gravity of every water change, but you want to have an idea of how much
salt per bucket of water you're going to add.
Be sure to mix the salt water in the bucket. Most salt water aquarists put
a powerhead in the bucket, but with the smaller amount of salt used in brackish
water, I've found that simply stirring the water in the bucket works.
Once you've filled the tank, you can follow any of the normal procedures to cycle the
aquarium. The one caveat to this is that I'm not sure if one should use the marine or
the freshwater version if cycling with Bio-Spira. I can make guesses, but because
these are all pretty much uneducated, I won't even write them here.

What to Stock the Aquarium With?

As far as choosing animals to put in your tank, as I said, the most important thing to
do will be research. A few common brackish fish are guppies, mollies (these fish,
common in freshwater tanks, actually prefer brackish water. Some species, such as
the black mollies, do best in water that is very close to full saltwater), gobies (these
fish run the gamut from full freshwater to full saltwater), and the dwarf puffer. These
are only a few examples of brackish fish. Research can find even more (and even
more odd, such as the archerfish) brackish fish.
In addition to fish, there are several invertebrates that live in brackish water. True
Amano shrimp live in salt marshes, and are actually incapable of breeding without
some salt in the water. Some fiddler crabs (including the ones usually sold in pet
stores) live in brackish water. In addition, there are other shrimp, crabs, and snails
that will do well.
Another thing to consider is whether or not you will want plants in your aquarium. As
with animals, there are only certain plants that can survive brackish water. I have had
great success with Java moss and Java fern attached to driftwood, and anacharis
and milfoil have both done well floating in the tank and anchored in the gravel bed. A
single bunch of micro chain sword has survived being in the tank, but has not grown
yet. A good resource for information on plants that are adaptable to brackish water
is plantgeek.net.

Upkeep
Once your aquarium is set up, it is probably best to allow the specific gravity to vary
periodically. Most parasites and bacterium have a more narrow range they can
survive in than your fish, which means these changes help keep your fish healthy.
Such changes will help mimic the naturally changing salinity that most brackish
animals live in. The only time that this would not be good is with fish/critters that
require a narrow range of specific gravity (I cannot find reference to such a creature,
but there is enough variety in the world that I'm sure at least one exists).
Most of the problems that you will encounter in a brackish tank are similar to those
that would be encountered in a freshwater tank, and can be addressed in a similar
manner. If massive changes in water are needed for any reason, it is a good idea to
match the salinity of the new water to that of the old water. While the fish are
adaptable, there is a limit to the amount ot change they can handle in a short time.
This guide is not meant to be comprehensive in regards to keeping a brackish tank.
Rather, it's meant to help you take the first steps if you want to. Once you get such
an aquarium going, it becomes easy to incorporate the little bit of extra care it
requires into your schedule, and the different creatures you can keep that couldn't
thrive in a freshwater tank will provide endless opportunities to learn about and
appreciate them.

Dyed Fish
Online Aquarium Fish Magazine | Dyed Fish
Provides information on dyed aquarium fish. With all of the beautifully colored fish in
the world, it is amazing that people feel the need to improve upon natural beauty.
And yet, fish stores around the world stock fish that have been dipped, tattooed, or
injected with dyes. These dyed fish suffer a very high immediate mortality rate, and
those that survive often have a greatly increased chance of future illness.
The results of the coloring process varies depending on the type of fish and the
method used.

Tattoos
Some fish are tattooed with very intricate patterns that would look gorgeous on a
human. Unlike human recipients of tattoos, these fish have not given their permission
to painfully modify their body. Further, it is harder for a fish to protect against follow-
up infection than it is for a human to protect against the same.

Injection

 Other fish are injected with dye. In some cases, this

creates an all-over color change. In others, it creates little pockets of dye. One of the
most considerable changes comes from the injection of fluorescent dye into
the Glassfish. This creates little fluorescent pockets in the fish. While neat-looking,
the process involves a needle bore that would be the equivalent of using a #2 pencil
as a needle for a human.

Dipping
Another process involves dipping fish in a chemical that burns away the slime-coat
followed by a dip in high-concentration dye. Though not as invasive as tattooing or
injection, it removes the fishes' first line of protection and then coats the gills and
probably stomach of the fish affected This affects respiration and likely other body
functions, as well.
There are some claims that fish are colored by feeding them heavily colored food,
but there is little to substantiate this claim. Even if it were true, it is unlikely that such
a high concentration of dye would be good for a fish.
It doesn't take a lot of imagination to realize that any of these processes would be
painful. Science has shown, repeatedly, that fish are capable of feeling pain, and that
they have a long-term memory. It is unconscionable to put a creature through this
kind of torture merely for the sake of aesthetics, especially when every fish has a
beauty of its own.

What Can You Do?

First of all, don't buy any painted fish. For the most part, it's fairly easy to tell if a fish
has been dyed. Most such fish just don't look natural. It's never a good idea to buy a
fish on a whim. If you see an unrecognized fish at the pet store, go home with its
name (and a picture if you can get one) and identify it and its requirements before
you buy it. This is a good way to weed out dyed fish. In addition, ask your local fish
store to not carry any dyed fish. In some cases, these fish are automatically sent to
them, and in others, they have been misinformed as to the fish's origins, so be kind
when talking to the employees.

Progress
There is some good news on this front. In many Western countries, dyeing falls
under animal cruelty laws, making it illegal to perform the processes in the country.
However, most countries do not ban sale of such modified creatures when imported.
Practical Fishkeeping has been running a campaign to stamp out fishkeeping in the
UK. They are beginning to expand their campaign to the entire world. To keep this
going, please visit their site, download the .pdf of the seller's pledge, and get your
local fish stores to sign up. Also, contact the folks at Practical Fishkeeping and ask
them to start keeping global numbers, so we can get a better idea of the effect that is
being had in countries other than the UK.
In addition, Death by Dyeing has more information on the dyeing process, a large list
of dyed fish (they usually have pics of some of the more common ones), and a
similar pledge area. They also have banners that can be attached to web-pages and
forum signatures, allowing you to spread the message even more easily.
Hopefully, by supporting either or both of these programs, and by talking to your local
fish stores and other aquarists, the process of dyeing will be stamped out. The pain
and death caused by this process is not worth the garish fish that are produced by it.
(photo credits: Quatermass and Melanochromis from Wikipedia.org from the Painted
Fish article.)
Care Details
Scientific Name: Parambassis ranga (originally referred to as Chanda ranga)
Common Names: Glass Perch, Siamese Glassfish, Glass Fish
Care Level: Moderate
Size: 3 inches
pH: 6.5 - 7.5
Temperature: 68° - 86° (20-30°C)
Water Hardness: 7 - 19 dGH
Lifespan: Unsure
Origin: Southern Asia from Pakistan to Malaysia
Temperament/Behavior: Very energetic yet peaceful
Breeding / Mating / Reproduction: To induce spawning they need slightly brackish
water conditions with elevated temperatures. They may place eggs on plant leaves.
Raising the fry is another story all together. Considered difficult.
Tank Size: A few specimens could likely be kept in a species-only 10g. 20g and at
least five glassfish is preferable.
Tank Mates: Many. Would likely make excellent dither fish in groups of five or more.
Would also make good "target" fish for species that get aggressive during mating.
They are very fast swimmers, and also seem to be playful. Obviously, avoid
predators large enough to eat them. Purely aggressive tank mates may not be the
best choice, though they may do well in a tank with semi-aggressive fish and plenty
of hiding places.
Fish Disease / Illness: Freshwater Fish Disease page includes symptoms,
diagnosis and treatment info. Only painted glassfish seem to be particularly
susceptible to any particular disease. Painting seems to encourage ich and fin rot
immediately after paining, and makes the fish more likely to develop Lymphocystis, a
viral infection that causes white cysts on the body and fins, throughout its life.
Food / Diet: Frozen or fresh, mostly carnivorous diet. Generally do not eat dry food,
according to several sources. That being said, I have fed mine nothing but flakes and
freeze-dried bloodworms, and they are always eager to eat.
Tank Region: Supposedly mid to bottom. This may be a result of lethargy induced
by brackish water. In purely freshwater tanks, they range across the entire depth of
the aquarium.
Gender: Males develop dark edge to their dorsal fin.
Glass Fish | Chanda ranga
Perches / Chandidae / Glass Fish

Profile: Indian Glass Perch, Indian Glass fish, Glass Fish

Chanda ranga Synonyms: Ambassis lala, A. ranga, Chanda lala, Pseudambassis lala
Physical description: The Glass Fish is laterally compressed and somewhat oval. The forehead is
indented and the back is arched. Two separate dorsal fins are present and the anal fin is long. In
reflected light, the transparent body has an amber to green iridescence. The fins are
transparent. The body coloring depends on the area where the fish is found, some having more
body pigment than others.
Size/Length: To 3" (8 cm)
Similar species: Other  Chanda species. There are about 15 species that resemble C. ranga , and
are often incorrectly sold as this fish. Some of these species are more transparent than others.
Habitat: In fresh and brackish water in Burma, India, and Thailand
S: middle
Aquarium: A 20" (51 cm) or 10 gallon (38 L) tank, arranged in dark colors, is suggested. Provide
hiding places with caves, roots, rocks, and wood. The tank should be well-planted with plants
that can tolerate the addition of salt. Place the tank in a way so that it receives morning
sunlight.
Water chemistry: pH 7-8.5 (7.3), 8-20 dH (14), 68-86°F (20-30°C). A 1-1.5% addition of salt is
suggested. Add 7.5-11 TSP of salt per 10 gallons (10-15 g/10 L).
Social behavior: A peaceful, schooling fish that can be kept in a community tank with other calm
fish that can tolerate the addition of salt. The Glass Fish is timid and easily frightened. Males
may be territorial during spawning season.
Suggested companions: Mollies, Brachygobius,  Orange Chromide, smaller Monos
FOOD: Live; insect larvae, insects, worms, Brine Shrimp; flakes
Sexual differences: Males have more yellow color and an iridescent blue fringe on their dorsal
fins during spawning season. The swim bladder in the male is pointed.
Breeding techniques: An increase of temperature, the addition of fresh water, and the rising sun
all help trigger spawning. The males lays 4-6 eggs per pairing until a total of 150-200 eggs
are laid. Courtship occurs in an upside-down manner. Eggs are laid among plants, and float,
adhering to leaves, stems, floating plants, and some reaching the surface. The parents ignore
the small eggs which are very susceptible to fungus. The eggs hatch in 20-24 hours and the
fry hang from vertically from plants for 3-4 days. The fry are difficult to raise, for they do not
chase food. Try using small nauplii in high concentrations in a tank with good circulation. Fry
will only eat what food passes directly in front of their mouth. The fry remain in a school.
Breeding potential: 7. Breeding is not especially difficult, although rearing the young proves to
be a challenge.
Remarks: The Glass Fish can live in fresh water, but may develop cotton-type fungus which must
be removed by hand. This fish is usually seen injected with a fluorescent dye. It does not harm
the fish except make them more susceptible to cotton fungus. This dye metabolizes out in 4-20
months, depending on the concentration, type of dye, and the fish. Injected specimen are often
called Painted Glass or the Painted Fish.
Difficulty of care: 5. The Glassfish is an interesting, but short-lived fish which does not usually
live for more than 2-3 years. The addition of salt lessens the chance of this species to
develop fungus. The Glassfish requires a diet including live foods.