ABAISSE - A tenu pastry-making to describe ABAISSE-A term used in French French

pastry-making (or sheet) a piece sheet) of pastry. It is also used to a piece (or
of rolled-out pastry. It is also used alayer describe a layer of sponge cake or
biscuit. ofsponge
a handful may be or, better still, a be substituted for the sage or, handful of an
orange. orange. Bay leaves are rosemary boiled boiled with the skin with the skin
of an (le Minagier good.' (le fourteenth century) Ménagier de Paris, fourteenth
also good.'

c,{trrsrre -- Fourth Fourth stomach of the the rumiABOMASUM. CAILLETTE (solid

rennet) its extract, nants. Dried Dried caillette rennet) or or its extract, liquid
nants. caillette (solid in the the cheese-making cheese-making used in rennet
(obtained by by infusion) is used coagulating milk. industry for coagulating
Arddche and and La is also also the the name name given in Caillette in the the
Ardèche Caillette is a mixture of minced Dr6me to a a large large sausage stuffed
with a Drôme pig's liver leaves. Iiver and chard Ieaves.
ABONDANCE ABONDANCE - Wine diluted with water. the drink drink which which in in
days This ironically describes This word word ironically describes the gone go ne
by used used to be served in schools or colleges, where wine deprecattenu is used,
deprecatwas scarce and and water abundant. The term ingly, of watered-down wine.
An abaisse of pastry

Herb-flavoured wine. The The ancients ancients used ABROTONITE ABROTONITE - Herb-
f1avoured mugwort called abrotanum abrotanum in this wine of mugwort to macerate a
sort of flavour. to enhance its f1avour.

(Hunger-killer) A substantial substantial dish dish served ABAT-FAIM (Hunger-

killer) - A early in the meal.

ABATTE (Beater) A popular corruption corruption of the ABATTE the French -A (to
beat). word battre battre (to An abatte is is a a rather rather thick, word beat).
An thick, broad, double-edged knife used flattening meal. meat. double-edged used
for f1attening grown in plant grown ABEL-MUSK. AMBRETTE ,c,Mnnnrrr ABEL-MUSK. An
aromatic aromatic plant - An very strong, must have a a very musty Martinique, the
the seeds of which y which have smell. In India these seeds are mixed with coffee
to give it a smel!. these seeds heighten its stimulating properties. and to
heighten special aroma, and ambergris-scented variety Ambrette is also the name of
an ambergris-scented of pear.
TABLE. ABLUTIONS ABLUTIoNs DE DE TABLE rABLE ABLUTIONS, TABLE. - The custom rinse
their of passing bowls of water to to guests at at table, to to rinse meal, or
after eating fingers at the end of eating certain dishes dishes with of a rneal,
back to earliest earliest antiquity. It was a common the fingers, goes back
practice with practice with the the ancient ancient Egyptians, Egyptians, the the
Greeks Greeks and and the Romans, who hands before the meal Romans, who not only
washed their hands but also between the courses. common to ail all ancient people,
is explained 'This practice, cornmon by the fact that in those days food was taken
taken with the fingers. (usually scented poured the servant poured A servant the
contents of a a vesse! vessel (usually A water) over the fingers fingers of the
guest. In other circumstances, circumstances, (Vie privie simply hands were sim ply
washed in a basin.' (Vie privée des anciens, by Louis Nicolas Menard) Menard) pouR
UNE UNE EAU Recipe for for finger-bowl finger-bowl water. water. RECETTE FscETrE
POUR Recipe D'ABLUTToN 'Boil a a handful handful of sage in water. Pour off the
D'ABLUTION - 'Boil marjoram resulting liquid and cool until tepid. Camomile or
marjoram

ABSINTH. ABSINTHE ABSTNTHE made by by macerating and ABSINTH. - Liqueur made

(Artemisia absinthium) distilling thc thc leaves leaves of wormwood wormwood
(Artemisia distilling plants (fennel, Chinese then adding adding other aromatic
aromatic plants Chinese anise, then hyssop, etc.). Absinth (colloquially known as
la verte) was the apéritif ap6ritif in Absinth the 1914 war. vogue before the vn
D'ABSINTHE Absinth wine. VIN D'ABsINTHE infusion of of Absinth - Wine spiced by
infusion wormwood leaves. leaves. wormwood

Wormwood Wormwood a. Branch a. b. Inflorescence b. c. Flower Flower c.

v
ABSORPTION
ABSORPTION ABSORPTION (Whinsical (Whimsical gastronomy) gastronomy)This was was the
meal - This offered in l'École in bygone times times to to the the senior senior
students of I'Ecole polytechniqrc arrivais. 'Enough 'Enough is bbsorbed absorbed
there polytechnique by the new arrivals. to justify justify the name of of the
ceremony.' ceremony.' (Lor6dan (Lorédan Larchey) Larchey) ABSTINENCE ABSTINENCE -
Days Days of of abstinence abstinence are those on which one should should abstain
abstain from from eating eating meat, meat, although although one one is is not
obliged to fast. Meat abstinence abstinence does not prevent one from fast. Meat
Iiving nonnal life. In fact, fact, the total exclusion of living a perfectly
perfectly normal certain foods and condiments condiments is indispensable in a
number number of of dietary dietary regimes. A few days' fasting is also prescribed
for those who have over-indulged over-indulged at table.

ACETO-IX)LCE ACETO-DOLCE ('Sour*weet') ('Sour-sweet') - An An Italian commercial

product of a mixture of vegetables and fruit, first product consisting of pickled
Muscat pickled in in vinegar, vinegar, then then preserved preserved in in a a
syrup syrup of Muscat grape must, must, honey and mustard. It is is usually served
as as an hors-d' œuvre. hors-d'euvre.
ACETOMEL. ACETOMEL. AcfroMELACÉTOMEL - Sour-sweet of honey Sour-sweet syrup made of
and vinegar used in the preservation of of fruit. Quinces, Quinces, pears and
grapes thus preserved of aceto-dolce, aceto-dolce, i.e. preserved take the name of
sour-sweet sour-sweet fruit.

ACETONE. ACETONE. AcfroNE ACÉTONE

ABUTILON - There are more than sixty sixt y varieties of this plant the world.
world. An An edible edible species species plant scattered scattered throughout the
grows in Brazil. known Abuti/on esculentum esculentum grows Brazil. The The
Brazilians Brazilians known as as Abutilon benças de deos and cook cook its flowers
with meat. meat. call it bengas In ln Europe, abutilon abutilon is cultivated cul
tiva ted as a garden garden plant for the beauty its flowers, ofits flowers, but
only only rarely rarely for use as food. In some sorne beauty of countries,
particularly particularly in Asia and and in the the West West Indies, its leaves
manner of sorrel sorrel or leaves are are cooked cooked and and eaten in the the
manner spinach. In India the the natives are very fond fond of the the species
species known as Abutilon Abutilon indicam. indicum.

- A colourless, inflammable inflammable liquid liquid with an acrid burning burning

taste and a quince-like quince-like smell. Acetone appears in the body when the
process cif of decomposition decomposition of fatty matter is is deficient
deficient and and particularly particularly when when the the diet diet is lacking
in carbohydrates (sugar). This frequently frequently arises in severe of diabetes
and starvation. starvation. severe cases ofdiabetes

ACACIA-Acacia ACACIA - Acacia blossoms blossoms are are used used for making making
fritters and a home-made liqueur. liqueur. Acacia blocsom FRITTERS. blossom
fritters - See FRITTERS.
Acacia Hqueuror liqueur or ratafia ratafia - See LIQUEUR. LIQUEUR.

ACAI\THUS ACANTHUS @rank-ursine). (Brank-ursine). lcaNrHn ACANTHE - This This most

decoradecorative plant plant is commonly commonly found in southern France where
its elegant, denticulated denticulated leaves leaves are are eaten, eaten, when
when young, young, as as a salad. It has emollient emollient qualities. qualities.
ACARNE ACARNE - Name Name given giveil to the European fish fish commonly commonly
known known as sea bream. bream. ACAVUS. AcAvE ACAVE - A variety of snail common in
French French vineyards and gardens. gardens. ACCOLADE, ACCOLADE, ININ - A A manner
manner of of arranging arranging pieces pieces of of the same same nature nature -
meat, meat, poultry, poultry, fish fish - back back to to back on one dish. This
This method of presentation presentation was was much much in vogue vogue in in the
olden olden days. method of

Chickens Chickens served served en accolade

ACELIIYE ACELINE - French French name name for for a a European European fish fish
a a little resembling is quite good good and and it it is is prepared prepared
resembling the the perch. perch. Its Its flesh flesh is like like perch perch
(q.v.). (q.v.).
ACET ABULUM. lcfrl.rur.E ACÉTABULE - The ancient Romans used ACETABULUM. the word
acetabulum to describe describe the the vessel vessel that held the word acetabulum
vinegar. vinegar. It lt was was also also used used as a measure measure in
medicine. medicine.

ACHARD - This word, derived from from the the Persian Persian ACHAR. AcHARD ACHAR.
word atchar, atchar, describes describes a a strongly spiced spiced pickle pickle
(usually (usually word saffron-coloured) saffron-coloured) made from from fruit,
fruit, or vegetables, vegetables, or or very young, tender buds of of palm cabbage
(palmetto) (palmetto) or bamboo bamboo sprouts. It is highly regarded throughout
the Indian ArchiArchipelago, pelago, in Mauritius, and R6union Réunion Island.
Island. Lemm ACHARDS DE DE crrRoNs CITR9NS Lemon achar (Creole cookery). cookery).
AcHARDS Choose thin-skinned thin-skinned lemons lem ons and quarter quarter them.
Extrait Extract the C6oose juice, juice, discard the pips, and macerate macerate
the lemons in layers layers of kitchen kitchen salt. Remove the lemons from the
salt and soak them in cold water several times. times. Boil in water for 24 hours,
changing the water fresh fresh water water until the the lemons lemons become
become soft. soft. Strain Strain offthe off the water. marinate in the following
Dry the lemons and put them to marinate sauce: Pound a a large large onion, onion,
a a pimento, pimento, and and a a large large piece of Pound grnger ginger to a
fine fine paste paste in a mortar. mortar. (Ginger, (Ginger, as well weil as
allspice, aUspice, Bourbon Bourbon saffron and Indian curry powder powder can be
bought bought in of Bourbon Bourbon delicatessen shops.) shops.) Add vinegar
vinegar and a teaspoon teaspoon of delicatessen best quality olive oil to ensure
ensure saffron. Blend with sufficient best completely that the lemons, when packed
into jars, will be completely covered. covered. ACHARDS DE DE pALMrsrEs PALMISTES
Palmetto achar achar (Creole (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Palnetto Palmettos Palmettos
(palm cabbage) cabbage) can can be be bought bought in in delicatessen delicatessen
shops. Remove carefully from the can, can, discard discard the the oil in shops.
olive which they were packed, and dress with good quality olive oil. ACHARDS os DE
rfcuMts LÉGUMES Vegetable achar achar (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Vegetable seeds and
and pulp pulp from from I 1 or 2 cucumbers, and Remove the seeds Cut cucumbers,
cucumbers, pimentos, the insides insides from from 2 2 large large pimentos. Cut
the about several carrots carrots and French beans into into thin strips about and
several (11 inches) long. Mix with florets of of cauliflower and 4 cm. (l| roughly
chopped cabbage cabbage leaves. leaves. roughly hours. Drain Drain thoroughly,
Macerate these these vegetables vegetables for 36 hours. Macerate Lemon dry, and
season season with sauce sauce described described in the recipe recipe for Lemon
dry, achar above. preserve the achar, spoon into glass preserving preserving jars,
jars, To preserve coyer completely completely with good good quality olive oil, and
and seal the cover jars jars hermetically. hermetically.

AClllLLEA (Milfoil). .lcrtnr6r ACHILLÉE - Plant, Plant, of which which one ACHILLEA

Achillea ptarmica, ptarmica, which which grows in woods, is edible. edible.

species, Achillea Its tender young young leaves leaves are added added to salads.
salads. Its
ACIDE - A chemical hydrogen hydrogen compound recognisrecognisAcIDE of causing
causing litmus solution to turn red. red. by its its property pro pert y of able by
ACETIC ACETIC ACID. ACID. lcfnqun ACÉTIQUE - The acid which which forms forms the
the basis basis of of vinegar. vinegar. It It is is used used in in cooking sugar
sugar in confectionery. confectionery.

ACID.

ACETIFICATION. ACETIFICATION. AcfTIFrcArroN ACÉTIFICATION - The chemical chemical

reaction reaction by a a yeast yeast (Mycoderma (Mycoderma aceti). aceti). Aided
Aided by by various various caused by caused
industrial VINEGAR), it it transforms transforms wine wine industrial processes
processes (see (see VINEGAR), alcohol other alcoholic alcoholic liquid) liquid)
into into acetic acetic acid. acid. alcohol (or (or other ACETIMETER.,c,cfnMirns
ACETIMETER. ACÉTIMÈTRE - Instrument Instrument for for assessing assessing the the
of concentration concentration of of vinegar. vinegar. degree of degree
2

used in cooking are vinegar, The acids most commonly used lemon juice juice and
verjuice. lemon ACIDIFIERS (Bilible). (Edible). ACIDIFIANTSACIDIFIANTS - Foods
Foods that that build build up an ACIDIFIERS of acid in the the system, system,
leading leading to acidification of the excess of body fluids. fluids. body Acid-
tasting fruits are not not necessarily necessarily acidifiers; nor nor do Acid-
tasting
ACROAMA
the acid taste; lemons, for the latter latter necessarily necessarily possess
possess an an acid taste; lemons, example, are not acidifiers. Meat pasta and bread
bread Meat, game, sea fish, offal, cereals, flour, pasta are fish, eggs, eggs,
butter, butter, are powerful acidifiers; acidifiers; ham, freshwater fish, fats,
shoots, Brussels hop shoots, Brussels sprouts, fats, chocolate, chocolate,
asparagus, asparagus, hop artichokes, onions, onions, chestnuts, chestnuts,
peanuts, walnuts, walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds less seriously so. ACIDIFY.
AcTDTFIER ACIDIFIER - To add add acid acid (lemon juice, vinegar or verjuice) to a
culinary preparation. preparation.

types are GLAND - Fruit tree. Sorne ACORN. cLAND Fruit of the ttre oak oak tree.
Some types and were were eaten by certain Asian peoples before they edible and
:rcorns discovered discovered cereals. In sorne some countries, such as Spain,
acorns roasted. Acorn flour (which unlike chicory chicory are eaten raw or roasted.
for coffee. has is used as a a substitute substitute for used as has costive
properties) properties) is roasted acorns of the For this purpose the roasted the
ballota oak are most commonly commonly used. used.

ACIDITY. lcIorrf ACIDITÉ - Acid taste. It exists naturally in certain vegetables

and fruit and disappears disappears or diminishes as a result of a'blanching' a
'blanching' operation operation (see BLANCHING). BLANCHING). Nowadays, Nowadays,
the the acidity acidity of a a liquid liquid is is measured measured in in pH
units; these range from zero, for pure acid (such as as hydrochloric chloric acid),
acid), to to 7, 7, which indicates indicates a a completely completely neutral
neutral substance. The The scale scale continues above above 7 to indicate indicate
degrees degrees of
alkalinity alkalinity (opposite of acidity). acidity). The acidity of certain Tbe
acidity scale shows shows the the degree of aeidity foods. foods.
14
Sodium

A small small shellfish with a BARNACLE. slrlNn BALANE - A ACORN BARNACLE. ail
seas, attached to conical irregular shell which is found in all rocks. rocks. It It
is is also also commonly called called acorn acorn shell shell and and turban
prepared like crab shell.Itsflesh shell. Its fiesh is quite delicate delicate and
is prepared crab (q.v.).

Acorn barnacles barnacles stuck to a piece piece of of shell

t3 13
12
Sodium cyanide

1- Caffeine
11 10
Sodium carbonate

Phenol Ammonia

0 -J-

i;t
::.::::>

«1-
~~r

«0 Cf)

-J-I

8. Bicarbonate ~~c:~~~:;te of soda ~

of soda Soawater

ARTERIAl BlOOD 1.1...

NEUTRALITY NEUTRALITY

u::>
«-J

-1-

c~1
o
Cf)

:: };~:~.::~OD ~)
i ~ 5
Hydrogen

peroxide

\ \ o \ { ~ s
l{l
~ o q.

-.j

SWEAT Zinc chloride Zincchloride

.4 ~ .4

';1

Beer Bgel

4
3·

Lacticacid Lactic acid Orange iuice juice 0range Wine Grape iuice iuice Grapo
Lomonjuice Lemon iuice GASTRfC JUIGE JUICE GASIBIC Acaticacid acid Acstic Pi cric
scid acid Picric

ACQUEITE - An old, spirituous ACQUETTE very aromatic aromatic liquor, spirituous

and very much prized in Italy and throughout the south of of France. Its appearance
resembles that of Danziger Goldwasser (Danzig (Danzig appearance eau de de ure).
vie). There There are are two two varieties: varieties: silver eau silver acquelle
acquette (in d'oro). Italian aqua bianca), bianca), and gold acquelle Italian
acquette (aqua doro). Silver acquette is made as follows: cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225
s. Ceylon cinnamon Cloyes 25 s. g. (L (1 oz.) Cloves Nutmeg (1 oz.) Nutmeg 25 g. (l
20 litres (4| (4t gallons, 5t 85° alcohol 85" 20litres 5] gallons) Steep these
various ingredients in the alcoholfor alcohol for 24 hours, Steep these then distil
distil without without rectifying; rectifying; you you will will obtain 20 litres
then obtain 20 (4| (41 gallons, gallons, 5f 51 gallons) gallons) liqueur. liqueur.
Dissolve 25 25 kg. kg. (55 (55 lb.) (2t gallons, 3 gallons) water and add the sugar
in III I litres (2| of the distillation. distillation. Leave Leave to rest for
syrup obtained as as a a result result of syrup crushed silver silver leaf leaf
into each the time time required, required, filter filter and put a crushed the
each bottle. bottle. go Id acquette take: To prepare gold cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225
s. Ceylon cinnamon 15 s. g. (l (t oz.) Cl oveS Cloves g. G (3 oz.) Angelica roots
Angelica 75 e. Crete Daucus of Crete 75 g. (3 oz:) Fresh lemon (peel of) 40 s. g.
(r| (lJ oz.) a0 Fresh (4t gallons, 5| 5t gallons) 85° alcohol 20 litres (4|
85'alcohol 20litres Proceed as as for preparing silver acquette, with just one
Proceed crushed gold leaf into each bottle. bottle. difference, that you put a
crushed ACRIDOPHAGE - One who feeds feeds on locusts. This food ACRIDOPHAGE but it
is epicures of Europe, but may seem extraordinary to the epicures quite acceptable
acceptable to African gastronomes. gastronomes. It appears appears that that the of
locusts locusts resembles, if if somewhat somewhat remotely, remotely, that of of
raw tas te of taste shrimps. ACROAMA - A A Greek Greek word, word, adopted adopted
by by the the Romans, meaning 'that 'that to which which one one listens',
listens', further further extended to meaning pays attention'. mean 'that to which
one pays To better entertair entertah their guests, guests, the the patricians made
a To habit of of summoning summoning musicians, poets, actors (who enacted,
enacted, habit licentious scenes), scenes), men and women dancers, dancers, at
times, very licentious jugglers, even gladiators gladiators and jugglers, acrobats,
tumblers, tumblers, dwarfs dwarfs and even savage beasts beasts to perform perform
while while the meal was in progress. progress. savage acroama meant not only these
these To the Romans this word acroama types of entertainment, entertainment, but
but also also the the performers performers various types themselves. themselves.
acroama continued continued through the cenThe custom of the auoaftro but was
renamed renamed entremets entremets ('between courses'). courses'). These turies
but common with what what today today describes describes entremets had nothing
nothing in common entremets 3

Hydrochloric acid Hydrochloric

Acidity scale scale Acidity

ACIDLTLATE. ACIDULA TE. acnurnn ACIDULER - To render render a dish dish slightly
acid, sour or piquant piquant by by the addition of of lemon, vinegar, etc.
ACIDLJLATED. ACIDULATED. acnulE ACIDULÉ - Term Term which which is is only used
used to describe describe mineral minerai waters waters charged charged with with
carbonic carbonic acid. acid. ACON ACON - An An implement implement used by by
French mussel mussel farmers to gather gather the the mussels mussels from from the
the mussel mussel beds beds in the the cove coye of Aiguillon, near near La
Rochelle. Aiguillon, of this this tool tool dates dates back back to antiquity. It
It is is mentioned mentioned The use use of The in Charlemagne's Capitularies.
ACTINIA ACTINIA
a course course of of vegetables vegetables or or a a sweet sweet course course
served served towards towards the the a end of a meal. meal Acroama, of a
Acroama,and the'spectacular entremets'that and the 'spectacular entremets' that end
succeeded it, it, were were enacted all through enacted ail through the the meal.
meal. succeeded

(Ser anemone). ACTINIA (Sea anemone). ACTINIE lcnNm -- Although Although actiniae
actiniae ACfINIA (stinging) animais, are urticating urticating (stinging) animals,
they they are are used as food used as food in in are certain localities.
localities. The The inhabitants inhabitants of of southern southern coasts coasts
of of certain France relish relish a a species species of of actinia actinia which
which they they cali call rastègne rasftgne and and France maintain that that their
their taste taste resembles resembles that that of of crabs. crabs. maintain
Actiniae have have to to be be thoroughly thoroughly beaten beaten before before
cooking cooking to to Actiniae tenderise them. them. They They can can then then be
be fried, fried, made made into into fritters, fritters, tenderise omelettes, etc.
etc. omelettes,
ADOC -- Name Name sometimes given to sometimes given to sour sour milk. milk. ADOC
ADLTLTERATION. FALSIFICATION FALsrFrcArroN -- A A deliberate deliberate lowering
lowering ADULTERATION. quality of of the the quaJity foodstuffs for purpose of
foodstuffs for the the pur gain. of illicit illicit gain. of pose of

juices, remove panjuices, Strain the the pan removeexcess fatand excessfat
andreduce reduce to tothe Strain the desired consistency. consistency. desired
Place the the agami agami on on aaserving serving dish dishsurrounded surroundedby
Place bythe the garnishes. Coat with the sauce. Coat with thesauce. garnishes.

(Iove feast) AGAPE(Love feast)-- This Thiswas wasthe AGAPE ofthe themeal the name
nameof which mealwhich the early early Christians Christians held held together
together in the inchurch, church, in inmemory memory of of the Last Last Supper.
Supper. The The Council the Council of of Carthage abolished the Carthage abolished
the agapes in in A.D. a.o.397 put an 397in n order agapes order to toput anend
endto tothe thecalumnies calumniesof of which they theywere which were the
theobject. object. The meals meals held held by The earlyChristians by the theearly
Christians in inthe thecatacombs catacombs in in memory of memory of the the
martyrs martyrs were were also also called calledagapes. agapes. This word word
nowadays nowadays is This used to isused todefine define an an important
importantfamily family meal. meal.
(Bengal isinglass) AGAR-AGAR productobtained isinglass) -- A AGAR-AGAR (Bengal A
product obtained from from various various seaweeds, seaweeds, known known also
also as as Japanese Japanese moss, moss,Ceylon Ceylon moss. MOSS. Agar-agar Agar-
agar is is collected collected in in the the form form of crinkly, whitish, of
thin, thin, crinkly, whitish, transparent transparent strips. strips. It It swells
swells slightly slightly in in cold coldwater water and and conconsiderably
siderably so so in in boiling boiling water, water, in in which which it it finally
finally dissolves. dissolves. A A jelly can fairly fairly stiff stiff jelly can be
be obtained obtained from from it, it, which which is is used in usedin
bacteriology. bacteriology. Its Its neutral neutral taste taste makes makes it it
suitable suitable for for use incooking usein cookingand and jellies.
confectionery, confectionery, and and fot for making making jellies. It It is is by
regurgitating seaweed by regurgitating seaweed of of this that the salanthis type
type that the salangane (Chinese swalIow) gane (Chinese prized by swallow) builds
builds its its nest, nest, so so much much prized by the me of'bird's the Chinese
Chinese under under the the na name of 'bird's nest', nest', for for which
whichfactoryfactorymade passed-off in made agar-agar agar-agar is is often often
passed-off in the West. the West. Agar-agar toms Agar-agar always always contains
contains the the carapaces carapaces of of dia diatoms (microscopic (microscopic
unicellular unicellular algae) algae) easiJy easily identifiable identifiable under
under the the microscope. microscope. This possible the This factor factor makes
makes possible rapid detection the rapid detection of any fraudulent the product.
fraudulent use product. ofany use of ofthe

/SGINETIA. JEGINETIE .EcrNErrE -- The The type genus of plant, type genus
A:GINETIA. of this this plant, Eginetia indica, indica, is is indigenous indigenous
to to the the East East Indies. Indies. The /Eginetia The natives natives of the
coast coast of of Malabar Malabar cali call it it tsiem-cumulu tsiem-cumulu and of
and blend it with with blend it nutmeg and and sugar (chewingsugar to to form form
an an excellent excellent mascatory nutmeg mascatory (chewinggum) used used for for
strengthening strengthening the gum) the teeth teeth and and combating combating
bad bad breath.
OF RHODES. RHODES. AEGIS mcn DE DE RHODES RHoDEs -- One AEGIS OF One of of the the
seven seven great masters masters of of ancient ancient Greek (third century Greek
cuisine cuisine (third great century B.C.). B.c.). in the the art art of of cooking
cooking fish. He excelled in fish. Word used AFFINAGE used in in the the French
French cheese cheese industry industry to to - Word process of describe the the
process of ripening ripening or describe or maturing maturing cheese cheese in in
temperature'controlled tempera ture-controlJed cellars. cellars.

AFFRIANDER French cuJinary AFFRIANDER culinary term term which which means means to
to - French tempt; to pleasant appearance tempt; to attract attract by by the
pleasant appearance of of a a dish. dish.
AFTER-TASTE. ,mn$nr-co0r -- Taste AFfER-T ASTE. ARRIÈRE-GOÛT Taste that that
returns returns to to the the mouth after ingestion of certain foods mouth foods
and and beverages. beverages.
the the Guiana agami agami is is typicaJ. typical. Its Its flesh flesh has
appreciable merit. has appreciable merit. The The agami agami is is used used in in
cookery cookery mainly mainly in in South South America, America, boiled boild in
consommé consomm6 or braised with rice. pleasant flavour Its flesh has has a
pleasant flavour but is is rather dry, dry, although although less so so in the
domesticated domesticated bird.

AGAMI (Trumpeter) of the wader wader family family of of which which - A bird of

AGARIC AGARIC -- A A family family of of fungi fungi with with a a compact compact
cap cap and and radiatradiating gills, that grows profusely profusely in places,
ing gilIs, that grows in damp damp and and shaded shaded places, and and is is also
also found found in in fields, fields, on on tree tree trunks, trunks, in in caves
caves and and on on decayed decayed wood. wood. There There are are about about
2000 known species 2000 known speciesof of agarics quite a agarics and and quite a
large large number number of are edible. of them them are edible. The The poisonous
poisonous species genus called species are are chiefly found among chiefly found
among the the genus called Amanita. Amanita. Among Among the the edible edible
agarics agarics are are the the following: following: Edible grown in Edible agaric
agaric or or cultivated cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms, grown in the the quarries
quarries around around Paris Paris -- the the c1assic classic type mushroom. This
This type of of mushroom. is is often described under often described term
champignon champignon without without any any under the the tenn other
qualification. other qualification.

Agami Agami

àh la chilienne chilienne - Choose Choose as Agami tr as tender an an agami agami

as as posc1ean it. it. Prepare Prepare a singe and clean sible. Pluck, draw, singe
a garnish of of rice cooked in fat stock with with pimentos. Bard Bard it put to it
and and put to braising pan with with the the usual usual accompaniments
accompaniments of braise in a braising of vegetables and and spices, spices, and
some sorne dry dry white white wine. wine. vegetables medium-sized braise in in
veal veal jelly jelly stock stock 12 Separately, braise 12 medium-sized onions
stuffed stuffed with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweet pimentos
onions sweet pimentos blended with with a a few few tablespoons of of reduced
reduced velouté velouti (q.v.). Prepare also also 450 450 g. g. (l (lIb.) Okra in
in tomato tomato sauce sauce (sec, (see OKRA). Prepare lb.) Okra OKRA). As soon
soon as as the the agami agami is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove from the
braising braising As from the Glaze it it in in the the oven. oyen. pan. Glaze pan.
4

A agaric which underside of the cap A type ofagaric which has type of has very very
distinctive distinctive ridges ridges on on the the underside ofthe cap
AILLADE AILLADE
Royalagaric, agaric,agaric agaricodorain odorainor or St. St.George's
George'sagaric agaricand andthe the Royal cultivatedagaric agaricare arealso also
found found in inthe theParis Parisregion' region. cultivated Among the the
poisonous poisonous species species are are Amanita Amanita phalloides phalloides
Among (death cap) cap) and and Amanita Amanita vernn verna (glll) (gill)(see
(seeMUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS) . (death Toprepare prepareedible edibleagarics, agarics,
saute sautéin inaa shallow shallowpan panin inoil oil or or To butter ; dress dress
with with herbs, herbs, Creon Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), ri à /a
la butter; provençale, d à la la bordelarse bordelaise (see (see GARNISHES).
GARNISHES). They They can can provmgale, also be be used used as as a a garnish
garnish for for a a large large number number of ofdishes. dishes. also
(I~ f,ints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) verjuice, verjuice, tt litre
litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 1tfi Z*hipO 2* cups)waier waterand and 150 150g. g.
(5 (5oz., oz.,! cup)brown brown or orgranulated granulated I cup)

Ingredients. Ingredients. 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) sweet sweet
almonds' almonds, I1litre litre

sugar. sugar. -Method

AGATHON - Poet, Poet, born born in in Athens, Athens, and and not not in in Samos,
Samos, as as AGATHON certain authors authors maintain. main tain. certain sumptuous
repasts repasts gave gave rise rise to to a a great great deal deaJ of ofjesting
jesting His sumptuous His on the the part part of of Aristophanes Aristophanes and
and other other dramatists. dramatists. Some Sorne on Banquet was was composed
composed at at his his table. table. people claim claim that that Plato's Plato's
Banquet people of South South American American plants plants belonging beJonging
to to AGA VE -A A genus genus of AGAVE Agavaceae - a a native native of of Mexico.
Mexico. In In Cuba Cuba and and the family family Agavaceae the Mexico its its pulp
pulp is is fermented fennented to to make make an an alcoholic alcoholic beverage
beverage Mexico pulque. called pulque. called AGNOLOTTI. Agnoloffi Agnolotti ià la
la pi6montaise piémontaise (Italian (ltalian cookery) cookery)AGNOLOTTI. Prepare a
a noodle noodle paste paste in in the the following following manner: manner: put
put 450 450 g. g. Prepare (I lb., lb., 4 4 cups) cups) flour flour in in a a circle
circle or or 'fountain' 'fountain' on on a a table. table. In In the the (l middle
of of this tbis circle circle put put 4 4 egg egg yolks, yolks, 20 20 g. g. (a (a
generous generous tabletablemiddle of salt salt and I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant scant spoon) butter, butter, a a pinch pinch of spoon) t cup)
cup) water. water. * Knead for l0 10 minutes minutes but but avoid avoid giving
giving too too much much body body to to Knead the paste. paste. Allow Allow to to
rest rest for l0 10 minutes. the out the the paste paste with a a rolling-pin
rolling-pin as as thinly thinly as possible. possible. Roll out Roll Place walnut-
sized walnut-sized pieces pieces of of forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, FORCEMEAT, Place
Beefforcemeat) forcemeat) along it in a horizontal line, spacing them Beef 5 cm.
cm. (2 inches) from from the the edge edge of the the paste paste and and 5 cm. cm.
(2 (2 inches) 5 inches) from from each each other. other. inches) Fold the
overIapping over this row of edge of the paste over Fold overlapping edge
agnolotti. Press down heap of forcemeat, to each heap around each down around
agnolotti. Press make the paste stick the agnolotti with a agnolotti with Cut out
out the well. Cut stick weil. the paste make crescent-shaped, pastry-cutter, thus
thus obtaining fluted-edged pastry-cutter, crescent-shaped, fluted-edged little
little turnovers. turnovers. Poach l0 minutes, minutes, allowing for 10 water for
in boiling boiling water them in Poach them à- pints, 2 quart) water. generous
quart) (lf pints, generous per litre litre (1 salt per 2 teaspoons teaspoons salt
Drain, dish.. place in in a a dish Drain, and and place Make from the left over
over from beef left the braised braised beef from the a sauce sauca from Make a
forcemeat. with the cheese with grated Pannesan Parmesan cheese and grated Serve
this and forcemeat. Serve agnolotti agnolotti.. AGONE is Italy it it is In Italy
(Smarh graerlis). graerlis). AGON AcoN -- ln D'ISTRIA (Smaris AGOIYE D'ISTRIA known
the has much much the it has indeed it and indeed of sardina sardina and name of
the name known under under the same All the the sardine. Ali the sardine. size to
to the in size is similar similar in and is flavour and same flavour recipes Like
(q.v.) can to it. it. Like applied to be applied can he given for sardines (q.v.)
for sardines recipes given . sardines, salted. be salted can be sardines, agone
agone can AGORANOME Greece. in ancient ancient Greece. of markets markets in
Inspector of AGORANOME -- Inspector He for responsible for produce and was
responsible and was price of of produce the price He controlled controlled the the
The markets. The to its its markets. laws relating relating to the laws of the the
implementation implementation of agoranome the of the aedile of to the the aedile
Greeks corresponds corresponds to of the the Greeks agoraiome of Romans. Romans.
AGOU small-grain resembles small-grain sd8'o resembles negroes' sago or negroes'
AGOU -- Agou Agou or millet. yellow with aa yellow colour with brownish-grey colour
grain is isof of brownish-grey Thisgrain millet. This spot made rice. Flour Flour
made likerice. It is iscooked cooked like stem.It thestem. it joins the spot where
where itjoins from porridge. cakesand andporridge. makecakes to make it is is used
used to from it AGOUTI (where Brazil(where found in inBrazil hare found sizeof the
size ofaahare Rodent the AGOUTI -- Rodent il and Republic, and Dominican Republic,
theDominican Guiana, the calledcotia), cotia), Guiana, it is iscalled generally in
livein canlive The agouti agouti can Indies.The WestIndies. theWest
generallythroughout throughoutthe Europe cold. protected from from the thecold.
ifit itis isprotected Europeif The israther rather theflavour flavouris goodto
though the toeat, eat,even eventhough fleshis isgood The flesh strong. (seePORK,
pig(see Piglet). PORK, Piglet). preparedlike likesucking suckingpig Itis isprepared
strong. It AGRAS more tobe bemore beverage;to icedbeverage; anAigerian Algerianiced
isan Agrasis AGRAS- - Agras precise, and almondsand arealmonds ingredientsare
graniti.Its Itsmain main ingredients precise,aagranité. verjuice. verjuice.

preparation' Method of of preparation. Blanch Blanch the the almonds almonds after
after having having scalded scalded them them with with boiling boilingwater.
water. Pound Pound them them in inaamortar mortaras as ofthe thewater' water.
finely as aspossible, possible, moistening moisteningthem them with with a a little
littleof finely When thiy theyform When fonn aapaste, paste,dilute dilutewith with
the the rest restof ofthe the water waterand and verjuice putunder under a a press
press verjuice and and strain strain through through a a napkin, napkin, then th en
put

to It dl' dl. (t (! pint, pint, !f cup) cup) white white vinegar vinegar to lxtract
extract all ail the the liquid. liquid . l+ combined with with I1litre litre (lf
(là- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water water may may combined he
substituted substituted for for the the verjuice verjuice and and water. water. be
Sweeten the the liquid Iiquid with with the the brown brown sugar' sugar, or' or,
if if this this is is not not Sweeten available, available, granuhted granulated
sugar, sugar, and and strain strain through through a a napkin napkin once once
again, again, but but this this time time without without pressing. pressing. Stand
in an an ice ice bucket, bucket, surrounded surrounded by by a a mixmixStand this
this mixture mixture in ture of of crushed cru shed ice ice and and sea sea salt
salt (coarse (coarse salt), salt), allowing allowing l0 10 per per ture of salt,
salt, and and leave leave to to chill' chilI. Loosen Loosen the the parts parts
which which get get cent of cent stuck stuck to to the the sides sides of of the
the ice ice bucket bucket about about every every 15 J 5 minutes' minutes. When
When the the whole whole mixture mixture acquires acquires a a granulated
granulated texture, texture, serve serve it in sherbet sherbet glasses, glasses,
adding adding half ha If a a coffeespoon coffeespoon of of kirsch kirsch to to each
each glass. glass. AGUAXIMA of Brazilian Brazilian pepper pepper not not very very
difdifAGUAXIMA - A A species species of ferent from ordinary ordinary PePPer.
pepper. A fruit AGLJNCAIB.lcuNclriAGUNCATE. AGUNCATÉ-A fruit grown grown in in
Peru,calledpalta Peru, calledpalta in Lima. Lima. It It is is shaped shaped like
like a a calabash calabash (gourd), (gourd), is is green green in in colour colour
and has has a varniJhed varnished appearance. appearance. Its Its skin skin comes
cornes away away from from the flesh easily when the fruit fruit is ripe. ripe.
This This flesh, flesh, somewhat somewhat in common common with insipid, is eatCn
eaten with salt. It It has something in with (q'v.). of avocado the flesh of
avocado Pear pear (g .v.).
medica) (French name for Citr~ Citnrs medica) CDDRE (French AIGRE DE AIGRE DE CÈDRE
Dame for Grasse around Grasse in Provence, Provence, around cultivated of a citron
tree cultiva Fruit of ted in It Italy. It in Italy. Genoa in near Genoa and near
Remo and at San San Remo Nice, also also at and Nice, and drink. summer drink.
makes a very refreshing summer cut slice cut thin slice a thin means a An
aiguillette aiguillette means AIGUILLETTE - An game. poultry and winged game. and
winged the breast of poultry on the lengthways on describe to describe be used used
to only he should only speaking, the word should Slrictly speaking, Strictly thin
to thin referring to when used wh often used it is is often fowl, but it slices of
fowl, thin slices en referring tbin into aiguillettes' aiguillettes'.. 'cut a beef
into of beef fillet of a fillet e.g., 'cut meat, e.g., slices of of meat, slices
(see BEEF). BEEF). rump (see top rump the top describe the used to to descrihe is
a/so also used Aiguillette is Aiguillette

Agouti Agouti

which France,which ofFrance, southof inthe thesouth usedin Definition used AILLADE
- - Definition AILLADE (Languedoc or Provence) orProvence) district (Languedoc
thedistrict tothe according to applies,according applies, garlic allgarlic areaH
butare somewhat but differsomewhat preparationswhich which differ topreparations to
based. based. (q-v.)' garlicvinaigrette vinaigrette (q.v.), ofgarlic sortof
santce,aasort ailladesauce, Firstly,ail/ade Firstly, garnishes' othergarnishes.
andother chivesand shallots, chives includingshallots, sometimesincluding sometimes

5
AIOLI AÏOLI
Aillade sauce sauceis isserved served with withco cold meatand potatoes andfish,
fish, with withpotatoes Aillade Id meat generally, with and, generally, with ail
alldishes dishes served servedàdla lavinaigrelle. vinaigrette. and, Secondly, bread
bread àd l'aillade, I'aillade,aa slice slice of of toasted toasted bread, bread,
Secondly, thoroughly rubbed rubbed with garlic and with garlic andsprinkled
sprinkled with with olive olive oil. oil. thoroughly provengal aillade This
provençal aillade is isthe the equivalent equivalent of the Languedocian of the
Languedocian This (garlic-rubbed chapon (garlic-rubbed bread). bread). chapon
Certain authors authors also also mention mention other other regional regional
preparations preparations Certain known under under the the name name of of
aillade. aillade. Among Among these theseare: ari: known Aillade albigeoise
albigeoise which which is is nothing nothing more more than than an an aïoli atoli
Aillade (q.v.). Aillade d la la toulousaine toulousaine which which is isalso also
an anaïoli atoliwithblanched with blanched pounded walnuts and pounded walnuts
added. added. and these preparations preparations are are very very appetising but
but something something Ali these -All of an acquired acquired taste, taste, garlic
being being their outstanding outstanding characcharacof an teristic. Tbey They are
are excellent for for seasoning seasoning salads. salads. teristic. AIOLIoT IILLOLI
-- Peel Peel4 pound and pound AÏOLI or AILLOU 4 large cloves of garlic, and to a
paste in a fine fine paste in a a mortar mortar with I egg yolk. Season Season with
with aa to pinch of of salt, salt, and and continue continue to pound, adding 21to
pound, (scant 2| dl. dl. (scant generous cup) cup) olive olive oil oil little
little by by little, little, as ] pint, generous as for ior mayonmayonnaise. Stir
Stir this this mixture mixture vigorously. vigorously. When When finished,
finished, it it should should have the the appearance appearance of of a a thick
thick smooth smooth m'lyolnn.ais;e. mayonnaise. have Aioli is is served served
mainly mainly with with boiled boiled fish, fish, hot or or cold, cold, but but
Afoli can also also be be served served with with cold cold meal, meat, or or used
used as as a a seasoning seasoning for for can salads and and cooked cooked
vegetables. vegetables. salads Garnishod aïoli. aio[. AÏOLI .liou GARNI cARNr --
This This dish, dish, very popular in Garnish.ed Provence, is is composed of of a a
variety of of inl~re:dilmt.s, ingredients, such as Provence, boiled cod, cod,
snails cooked cooked in in salt water, water, fennel, onions onions boiled stuck
withcloves, with cloves, boiled boiled carrots, carrots, french french beans,
beans, artichokes artichokes stuck cooked in in salt salt water, water, unskinned
potatoes, bard-boiled unskinned potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, eggs, cooked etc. Small
Small octopi, boiJed boiled in in salted salted water with herbs, herbs, are are
somesomeetc. times added. All these are arranged on a a large dish and and served
served with aïoli. aioli. with The preparation of of this this dish, says J. B.
Reboul, one J. B. one of the the The maitres provengale, demands a cuisine
provençale, great deal a great deal of of maitres de la cuisine artistic
arrangement. arrangement. Not Not ail all the ingredients whicb which we we have
artistic enumerated, however, are absolutely essential. There is is no no
enumerated, however, are set rule point. One on this this point. One should proceed
proceed according to to one's set rule on tastes and the tas tes and the means
means at one's disposal. Aidi la grecqrre i la kind of vinaigrette sauce sauce
which which is Aïoli il A kind -A prepared combine pounded walnuts, prepared as as
follows: combine walnuts, almonds and and soaked in in and hazelnuts hazelnuts with
fresh fresh breadcrumbs sieved and milk, pounded garlic. garlic. Blend BJend with
oil, vinegar and lemon milk, and and pounded juice. juice. Serve Serve with with
fried fried and boiled boiled fish.

Albatross Albatross

ALBUIERA @') - Definition applying to various kinds of ALBUFÉRA dishes chiefly

chieflyCh,naictenStxj characterised by the sauce which goes with dishes them. them.
Theterm term d'AlbuJéra d'Albufdra was probably first was probably first used
usedeither either by by _The Car6me or or by by his his successor successor
Plumerey, Plumerey,so Carême sothe the recipefor for Duckling à dla lad'AlbuJéra
d'Albufirais almost certainly Duckling is almost certainly the authenticone. one.
It differs differs slightly slightly from from the themodem modern version. It
version. Marshal Suchet Suchet was was made made Duke Duke of Marshal ofAlbuféra
Albuf6rain in1812 l812 after after the victories victories of of Oropéza, Orop6za,
M Murviedro urviedro and the and Valencia Valenciain in Spain. The lake lake of of
Albuféra (See DUCK. Albuf6ra is is near near Valencia. The Valencia. (See cHrcKEN.)
CHICKEN.)

ALBUMEN -- A A constituent constituent of ALBUMEN of seeds seeds containing

containing food food reserves for plant in for the the plant reserves in
germination. Albumen Albumen is issometimes sometimes farinaceous, as as in in
cerealssuch such as asmaize, farinaceous, maize, barley, barley, corn corn and and
rye; sometimes sometimes oily oily or or fleshy fleshy as rye; as in in coconut
palm and coconut palm and in in black black poppy. In In certain palms it certain
palms it acquires poppy. acquires the the hardness hardness of of ivory. ivory. The
albumen albumen contained contained in The in coconuts coconuts is is in in the the
fonn form of of an an layer surrounding outer layer surrounding the outer the inner
inner cavity that that contains contains the the liquid commonly commonly known
known as liquid ut milk. as cocon coconut

grain or Section of Section a grain corn showing ofa ofcorn showing albumen the
albumen the

AISY left over from the AISY - Name Name given given to the (soured) (soured)
whey !eft scalding scalding of of milk milk used used in in the production prod
uction of Gruytre. This whey whey is is used used to to make cheeses cbeeses of an
an inferior quality called serai.The serai. The aisy aisy is is stored stored in
barrels and added to daily &s more whey whey becomes becomes available. ALARIA of
seaweed of which five five species are ALARIA - A A genus genus of found in the the
seas seas ofnorthern of northern Europe. Europe. found in One One variety, variety,
known known as as badderlocks badderIocks in in Scotland Scotland and murlins
murlins in in Ireland, Ireland, flourishes flourishes along along the the Atlantic
Atlantic coast coast of of the British British Isles. Isles. It It is is eaten
eaten in Scotland, in lreland, Ireland, and in the Faroe Faroe Islands. Islands..
Only Only the the slightly sligbtly sweet central central cartilaginous
cartilaginous vein is consumed. consumed. vein is

ALBACORE ALBACORE (Yellowfin (YeLlowfin tura) tuBa) - A A large large species of

tunny tunny (tuna) (tu na) fish. fish. This This is is also also the the Portuguese
Portuguese word word for for the the swordswordfish fish (q.v.). (q.v.).

ALBARELLE of edible edible fungi fungi which which grows grows on on ALBARELLE - A
A genus of
chestnut chestnut trees trees and and white poplars. poplars.

Many types of grain are are used for for their their albumen albumen in in domestic
domestic economy, in medicine and economy, and in in the the arts. cereals provide
provide arts. Thus Thus cereals us with with flour; us flour; the the coffee coffee
shrub shrub wüh with an an alkaloid known known as as caffeine; the the black poppy
with black poppy poppyseed oil, with poppyseed oil, used used almost almost
unlve:rSélllv universally as as a food. The The seeds a food. seeds of certain
species of of waterwaterlilies, very pleasant to the palate, lilies, palate, are
much much used in Cbina and China and Vietnam as as food. The kernels of a species
grows species of pine that grows in in Provence Provence and and Italy contain
contain an an oily, oily, delicately flavoured albumen, which makes them much
valued valued in in confectionery, confectionery, particularly in the manufacture
manufacture of sugared pine nuts. nuts. Several Several species species of of palm
tree provide provide both edible oil and and oil for lighting. Linseed Linseed oil
oil cornes ing. comes from the seeds seeds of flax. species of A species of dwarf
dwarf palm, found produces a found in Peru, produces a large cabezo de fruit which
the natives call call cana or cabezo de negro. negro, When is green, the tbe
albumen'of albumen· of its its seeds the fruit is the seeds is is a a
pleasanttasting liquid which, when fermented, yields a a wine that that is is mu ch
appreciated by the the Peruvians. The fruit, when wh en ripe, much The fruit, ripe,
be put put to the the same same uses uses as ivory; becomes very hard and can be as
ivory; in fact fact it il is is exported under under the the name name of of raw
raw ivory or vegetable in or vegetable ivory. When When burned, burned, the the
product product obtained obtained compares compares ivory. obtained from from
eleelefavourably with ivory black, which is obtained phants' teeth teeth and and
tusks. phants'
ALBUMINE - Viscous whitish matter matter with with a a ALBUMTNE whitish - Viscous
slightly salty salty taste. taste. An example is is white white of of egg, egg,
which which conconslightly 59 per per cent cent of ofits i18 total total weight
weight (see (see EGGS). EGGS). tains albumin albumin up up to to 59 tains A}bumin
is is also also found in ln blood blood serum, serum, in in milk milk and and in in
Albumin of dried dried vegetables. It It is is for for plants, particularly in in
the the seeds seeds of plants, this reason reason that that the water water in in
which which peas, peas, beans and and lentils lentils this

ALBATROSS. ALBATROSS. lrs.{rnm ALBATROS - Sea Sea bird bird with with very tough
tough flesh. flesh. That That ofthe of the young young bird bird is is eaten,
eaten, nevertheless, nevertheless, and is is prepared prepared like like Wild Wild
&tck duck (see (see DUCK). DUCK). ALBIGEOISE ALBIGEOISE-- Garnish Garnish for for
large large and and small small cuts cuts of ofmeat. meat. It It consists consists
of ofstuffed stuffed tomatoes tomatoes and and potato potato croquettes.
croquettes.
6

ALBUMIN. ALBUMIN.
ALCAZAR ALCAZAR
Albumin is are cooled. Albumin are cooked cooked becomes becomes viscous viscous
when when cooJed.
soluble in water in its raw state but coagulates a temperacoagulates at a and then
becomes insoluble. ture of 78-80°e. 78-80'C. (172-176"F.) (l72-l76°F.) and Albumin
in the form of of a a thin yellowish transparent sediment can be obtained by
evaporating the white of egg egg at at a the white (122"F.). temperature of about
50°e. 50'C. (l22°F.). Albumin is used in the confectionery confectionery industry
as as a a substitute for white of egg in the manufacture manufacture of certain
kinds of of liquorice, Montélimar Montelimar whisked pastes pastes such as
marshmallow, whisked marshmallow, liquorice, nougat and various meringue products.
as an It is also an egg egg substitute in in the the manufacture manufacture of of
also used used as cheap biscuits and almond paste. Before use it has has to be
disId water. cold solved in about seven times its weight of co Albumin in the form
of beaten whites of egg is used in the clearing of of wine. in and brown them them
in onions and pimentos and Method. Slice Slice the onions Method. garlic. Sprinkle
stir, with flour, flour, stir, Sprinkle with slightly crushed crushed garlic.
butter. Add slightly (which has has been meat (which been and add add the the meat
lightly, and to brown brown lightly, allow to Add the the egg egg and and and
seasoning. seasoning. Add minced), breadcrumbs, and minced), water, a little of of
the stock stock or or boiling boiling water, well. Moisten with a blend weil.
quarter of an hour. hour. for a a quarter of an and leave leave to to sim simmer
and mer for pastry into a a pastry still hot, hot, into mixture, while while still
Put this this forecemeat forecemeat mixture, Put saucepan ring. Hold Hold the the
bag bag over over a a saucepan forcing-bag fitted fitted with a a ring. small
slices slices of of the the squeeze; cut cut off off small stock and and squeeze;
of boiling boiling stock of quenelles the bag. bag. Sim Simmer these quenelles of
the sausage as it it cornes comes out out of mer these sausage,as pan. lid off
leaving the the lid off the the pan. in the boiling stock stock leaving in in
butter, butter, and and add add them them soften them them in Chop the the
tomatoes, tomatoes, soften Chop just before served. it is is served. to the the
soup soup just before it to

ALBUMINOIDS. ALBUMINOïDES -- Substances ALBUMINOIDS.,c,rnuMNoioEs Substances

possessing properties akin albumin (coagulable by by heat), akin to to those those
of albumin proteinic substances. also called nitrogenous, quaternary or proteinic
They exist in animal or vegeveg€all living organisms, organisms, whether animal in
ail
table. Chemical analysis same four four basic basic elements: elements: analysis
reveals the same carbon, hydrogen, oxygen in varyoxygen and and nitrogen nitrogen
associated in ing quantities with other elements. Albuminoids constitute of ttre
essential elements elements of constitute one one of the our the only only our
diet. diet. Of all the the substances we we generally eat, eat, the Of aU ones
lacking in albuminoids albuminoids are those which have undergone undergone an
industrial purifying process su ch as sugar. such as oil oil and and sugar. ln In
dietetics, dietetics, an an increased increased ration ration of of albuminoids
albuminoids is is ococcasionally prescribed (in cases of malnutrition, etc.) but
more casionally prescribed more frequently the is reduced albuminoids in the the
diet diet is the amount of albuminoids prowhen, for for example, the kidneys fail
fail to to eliminate eliminate waste procxample, the ducts transform them. ducts or
the liver is unable to transform Without going to reproducing specialist specialist
Without going to the the extent extent of of reproducing tables possible to divide
albuminoid or or tables of of analyses, analyses, it it is is possible to divide
nitrogenous food food into four categories: categories: Very po or in (less than
green vegepoor in albumins albumins (less than 1 cent): green I per cent): tables,
pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, cream, cream,
butter, butter, honey, sugar, oils. Poor (up (up to green cabspinach, artichokes,
green cabto 6 6 per cent): cent): spinach, bages, Brussels uts, green peas, cocoa,
green peas, cocoa, chestnuts, Biussels sprouts, bages, sprouts, chestn chocolate.
Rich (6 to per cent): Rich (6 cereals, noodles, to 12 12 per cent): bread, bread,
Bours, flours, cereals, eggs. eggs. Very (I2 to per cent): hazelVery rich rich (12
cent): walnuts, walnuts, almonds, almonds, hazelto 30 30 per nuts, peas, lentils,
dried peas, lentils, various meats, nuts, various meats, fish, fish, dried dried
beans, beans, dried beans, peas, cheeses. beans, chick peas, cheeses.

Alcarazza Alcarazza

(Water cooler). ALCARRAZA The French French cooler). ALCARAZAS ALcARAZAS -- The
ALCARRAZA (Water have the Spanish, Spanish, who who in in turn turn from the have
borrowed borrowed this this word word from (pitcher). In borrowed it alkourraz
(pitcher). In Egypt, Egypt, it from from the the Arabic Arabic alkourraz 'the
alcarraza the has become the French French become the this has is called bardak;
this called bardak; alcarraza is probably barclague balasse. Bardak Bardak is is a
a Turkish Turkish word word probably bardague and and balasse. stemming bara,
meaning meaning to to cool, cool, and and root bara, stemming from from the the
Arabic Arabic root (meaning, like from like alcarraza, a frorn which barradn
(meaning, alcarraza, a is derived which is derived barrada vessel vessel for
liquids) and and the the Spanish word albarrada. albarrada. for cooling cooling
liquids) Spanish word jugs of These porous, unglazed various shapes shapes are are
filled filled These porous, unglazed jugs of various with shade in in a a draught.
The water water with water water and and hung hung in in the the shade draught. The
jug and oozes pores of The of the the jug and evaporates. evaporates. The through
the the pores oozes through hotter air, the the hotter the the outside temperature
and and the the drier drier the the air, outside temperature quicker quicker the
heat necessary necessary for for evaporation evaporation the evaporation.
evaporation. The The heat jug, which is frorn the liquid inside inside the the jug,
which is is thus thus is extracted extracted from the liquid cooled. eooled.
paste ALCAZAR (Pâtisserie) - Line Lining paste with Lining Line a a sponge tin with
sponge tin ALCAZAR(PSfisserie)(see (see DOUGH). with 2 2 tabletableand spread
spread with Prick the the bottom bottom and DOUGH). Prick jam. Fil spoons 1 three-
quarters (3 tablespoons) Fill of apricot jam. three-quarters of spoons (3
tablespoons) apricot the following mixture: the tin tin with with the the following
mixture: g oz., Ingredients. g. (4 icing sugar, I cup) sugar, 4 4 egg egg whites,
125 g. oz., 1 cup) icing whites, Ingredients. 125 60 (2 oz., (2 oz., g. (2 gtound
almonds, almonds, 60 60 g. oz., t cup) Bour, flour, cup) ground ffi g. oz., t I
cup) e.Q I cup) 25 g. (l 2 tablespoons) melted butter, kirsch. 25 g. oz., 2
tablespoons) melted butter, kirsch. Q oz., Method whites preparation. Beat and the
the egg egg wrutes Beat the the sugar sugar and Method of of preparation. en add
over .over gentle ground gentle heat a firm firm meringue, meringue, th then add
ground heat to to obtain obtain a almonds, half aa finally, melted melted butter
butter mixed mixed with with half almonds, Bour flour and, and, finally, wine
kirsch. Spread glass of a buttered and Boured floured baking baking wine glass
ofkirsch. Spread on on a buttered and sheet. (350'F., Gas Bake in sheet. Bake in
the the {)ven at 180°e. 180"C. (350°F., Mark 4) 4) for for Gas Mark 'oven at 50
minutes and and turn out onto onto aa wire wire tray. tray. 50 to to 60 6O minutes
tum out Fit pipe, and piping-bag with a ftuted and fill fill with with unFit a a
cloth cloth piping-bag with a fluted pipe, uncooked (l lb.) g. (l paste in
proportion of in the 450 g. lb.) to to cooked almond almond paste the proportion of
450 450 (l lb.) (see (see ALMOND, paste 1). g. (lIb.) 450 g. 1). Pipe a
latticelatticeALMOND, Almond Almond paste Pipe a work pastry, then pipe a in aa hot
work over a border. Place in hot oyen oven over the the pastry, then pipe border.
Place to our the jam paste. Coyer with thick thick apricot to col colour almond
paste. apricot jam the almond Cover with and a pistachio each lozenge. put half
pistachio nut lozenge. in the and put halfa nut in the centre centre of ofeach As
paste border As an an alternative an almond almond paste apricot alternative to to
an border use use apricot jam jam sprinkled sprinkled with chopped roasted roasted
almonds. almonds. with chopped
ALBUNDIGAS - The (Mexican cookery) ALBUNDIGAS (M~xican cookery) The originof origin
of albundigas appears to In Mexico Mexico it it to be be Spanish Spanish or or
Mexican. In is is almost a a national national dish. Combine (l lb.) g. (l Ib.)
finely finely choppedfillet Combine 450 450 g. chopped fillet of of beef beef and
and 100 (a oz.) g. (4 100 g. oz.) fairly coarsely coarsely chopped chopped fat fat
bacon. Season with with bacon. Season salt and pepper. Add a garlic and pepper.Add
little crushed and a a teaspoon of of a little crushed garlic chopped parsley, and
into thickish chopped parsley, and bind with an an egg. egg. Shape Shape into
cakes. an ovenproof dish and and cakes. Fry in clarified butter. Put Put into
ovenproof dish into an coyer for 20 20 minutes. sauce. Cook the oyen oven for
minutes. in the cover with with tomato tomato sauce. Cook in Serve (see RICE). Rice
à criole (see Serve with Rice d la la créole RICE). Albundigas Albundigas can frorn
a a mixture mixture of of veal veal and and can also also be be made made from
pork. The me : The Mexicans also also have have a a soup soup called called by this
na name: by this Ingredients. (5f pints, pints, 6t pints) light light stock
Ingredients. For For 3 litres (st stock or or 3 litres 6| pints) water, take 225 g.
(8 oz.) g. (8 pork, veal veal or 5 mediummediumtake225 oz.) fiUet fillet of of
pork, or beef, beef, 5 sized 4 green peeled and garlic,4 green pimentos, pimentos,
3 and sized onions, 3 peeled onions, a a clove clove of of garlic, deseeded (2 oz.,
g. (2 2 tablespoons tablespootts oz., t deseeded tomatoes, 50 g. cup) butter,
butter, 2 tomatoes, 50 I cup) (3 (3 tablespoons) amount of of sieved flour, the
sieved the same tablespoons) wheat wheat ftour, same amount breadcrumbs, or, better
better still, still, or thyme, thyme, or, breadcrumbs, I teaspoon teaspoon
coriander coriander or marjoram, I I egg and 1 egg and a more more delicate
delicate Bavour, flavour, 1 marjoram, which which has has a tablespoon tablespoon
salt. salt.

7
ALCOHOL ALCOHOL
ALCOHOL. ALCOOL ALcooL - - Liquid Liquid obtained obtained by by distilling
distilling ferferALCOHOL. mented liquors. liquors. mented In chemistry, chemistry,
ail all organic substances composed organic substances composed of of carbon,
carbon, ln hydrogen and and oxygen, oxygen, capable capable of of being being
combined combined into into an an hydrogen acid to to form form an an ether, ether,
are are defined defined as as alcohol. alcohol. We We shall shall deal deal acid
only with with ethyl ethyl alcohol alcohol or or wine wine alcohol, alcohol, also
alsocalled called wine wine only spirit. It It is principal product product of is
the the principal of the the fermentation fermentation of of sweet sweet spirit.
liquids formed formed by by the the double double decomposition decomposition of
ofglucose under liquids glucose under yeast. This the action action of of yeast.
This microscopic microscopic vegetable vegetable cell cell reproreprothe duces
itself itself by glucose into by splitting splitting glucose into carbonic carbonic
acid acid and and duces palatable and alcohol and and a a few few palatable and
sweet-smelling sweet-smelling by-products. by-products. alcohol (See BEER, BEER,
WINE.) WINE.) (See
mentco-ordination, co-ordination, congestion congestion of of the theface,
face,overpowering overpowering ment drowsiness; Third Third degree: degree.'Loss
Lossof of mobility, mobility, sensitiveness sensitiveness drowsiness; and will.
will. and 2. Aeute Acuteintoxication intoxication -- Early Earlysymptoms symptoms
the 2. thesame same as asin in period of inebriety, but the period but the
ofexcitation excitation is isvery veryshort, short, resulting inebriety, resulting
quickly in insomnolence, somnolence, which which can can develop developinto
quickly into aacoma coma and and evendeath death through through cerebral
pulmonarycongestion. cerebral or or pulmonary even congestion. 3. Chronie Chronic
alcobolism alcoholism -- Repeated Repeated abuse abuseof of alcoholic alcoholic 3.
produces Jesions liquids produces lesions of (gastritis), of of the the stomach
stomach (gastritis), liquids of the the liver (cirrhosis), of (nephritis), and of
the the kidneys kidneys (nephritis), and of ofthe the nervous liver(cirrhosis),
nervous (delirium, neuritis). system (delirium, neuritis). system

Microscopic cells cells inducing inducing Microscopie alcoholic fermentation

fermentation alcoholic

produced by Alcohol is juices is produced by fermenting fermenting natural natural

sweet sweet juices Alcohol (grapes, apples, apples, sugar sugar cane, cane,
beetroot, beetroot, etc.) etc.) or or amyloide amyloide (grapes, musts, which which
have have been preliminary fermentasubjected been su to preliminary musts, bjected
to tion which which transforms transforms the the starch glucose. Wort starch into
into glucose. Wort of of tion (beer), potatoes, cereals (beer), potatoes, etc. etc.
are are used. cereals The distillation distillation of these musts musts and
produces spirits of these and worts produces The (q.v.); the the concentration
concentration and and rectification rectification of of these these spirits (q.v.);
produces industrial alcohols. alcohols. produces industrial per cent Absolute 100
per cent alcohol alcohol is product; it is is a a laboratory laboratory product;
Absolute 100 a which boils 78.3'C. Because of of its its high a caustic caustic
liquid, liquid, which boils at at 78·3°C. water absorption potentiality
potentiality it it must must be be treated with with great water absorption
caution. caution. (medicinal) 95' Officinal a colourless, mobile, Officinal
(medicinal) 95° alcohol alcohol is is a non-residual and a pleasant odour odour and
non-residual liquid, liquid, volatile, volatile, with with a a pleasant burning
79.9"C.It burning taste; taste; it it boils boils at at 79·9°C. It can be be mixed
mixed with with water water in all ail proportions, proportions, with with
contraction contraction (that (that is is to to say, say, the the total volume of
the the mixture mixture is is lower lower than that of of the components)
components) volume of and and with with emission emission of of heat. heat. 85' 85°
alcohol alcohol is is commonly commonly called called 'three-six' 'three-six'
(trois-six) (trois-six) because because three three parts parts of of this this
alcohol, alcohol, mixed mixed with with an an equal quantity quantity of of pure
pure water, water, produce produce six parts of of ordinary eaueaude-vie. de-vie.
Alcohol Alcohol possesses possesses antiseptic antiseptic properties; properties;
it it is a diffusible diffusible stimulant stimulant which which has has numerous
numerous uses uses in in therapeutics. therapeutics. In ln its its chemical
chemical composition composition alcohol alcohol approaches sugars sugars (l (1
molecule molecule of of glucose glucose is is split, split, by by fermentation,
fermentation, into into 2 2 molecules molecules of of alcohol). alcohol). It It
possesses possesses definite but but moderate moderate alimentary alimentary
properties, properties, because because it it decomposes decomposes too too quickly
quickly in the the organism, organism, and and the the energy energy released
released can can only only be be used used to to a a small small degree, degree,
mainly mainly because because it it becomes becomes a a toxic toxic substance
substance when when taken taken in in large large doses doses (see (see
ALCOHOLISM). ALCOHOLISM).

AIfi -- English English beer, lightly hopped beer, lightly hopped and and slightly
stightly bitter. ALE bitter. It It is is used in in cooking cooking for for making
making various various cheese cheese dishes, used dishes, notably notably (q.v.).
for Welsh Welsh rarebit rarebit (q.v.). for Ale is is obtained obtained by by rapid
rapid fermentation fermentation and Ale and acquires acquires strength on on
maturing; maturing; fermented fermented small small beer, strength beer, on on the
the other other hand, has has only only aa short life. Stout short life. porter are
Stout and and porter hand, are brewed brewed from from grain; ale roasted grain;
ale is grain in from grain is made made from in its its natural roasted natural
state. state. It used used to to be be a a tradition tradition in in wealthy It
wealthy English English families families to to celebrate the birth birth of of aa
son son by by filling filling one celebra te the one or or more more barrels
barrels of of ale, specially specially brewed brewed for for the the occasion.
occasion. The ale, The barrels barrels were were hermetically sealed sealed and and
not not opened opened until hermetically until the the son son and and heir heir
reached his his majority. majority. On On this this memorable reached memorable day
day -- called called the the 'coming of of age' age'friends, tenants tenants and
and servants 'coming - friends, servants were invited were invited great repast, to
a a great repast, which which concluded concluded with passing round to with the
the passing round of of the splendid splendid twenty-one-year-old twenty-one-year-
old ale. the ale. posset Ale posset (lf pints, Heat 1 pints, generous I litre litre
(I~ generous quart) Ale quart) ale ale with with - Heat a little pinch ofpowdered
little sugar, sugar, a of powdered gingerand ginger and grated q pinch grated
nutmeg. a nutmeg. (l| pints, Boil 1 pints, generous I litre litre (l~ generous
quart) quart) unskimmed milk Boil milk and and mix it, it, while while still still
boiling, boiling, with mix with the the ale. ale. Toast and and ale ale An English
Toast English beverage which which used used to to be be - An served in in win
winter, after the the dinner, dinner, at served ter, after at the the same same
time time as as the the cheese. Method. Bring (lf pints, generous quart) old Bring
1 I litre (li Method. ale, to to old ale, which a a coffeespoon coffeespoon of
ginger has which has been added, to been added, to the the boil. jug with Pour it,
it, whilst whilst almost almost boiling, into a boiling, into Pour a jug with a a
metal metal lid lid containing a thick slice slice of bread toasted on both sides.
containing sides. Leave the ale to to stand stand for a a short time before
serving.
ALECTRYON large tree A large ALECTRYON tree of of which which the the best-known -
A found in New Zealand. species is found Zealand. Its red red berries, berries,
much Its prized for much prized pleasant acid for their their pleasant acid
flavour, are usd used in the manufacture manufacture of refreshing beverages.
beverages. An excellent oil is extracted from its seeds (and exported).

ALEMBIC. ALEMBIC.
ALAMBTc ALAMBIC

comprises comprises a cucurbit, or tinned copper boiler, with or withouta out a

bain-marue, bain-marie, surmounted by bya with a serpentine, a cap with serpentine,
i.e., a tin, or tinned copper, spiral coil coilleading leading from it.

Apparatus used for Apparatus used for distilling. distilling. It

Old·fashioned alembic alembic Old-fashioned

distinct forms: distinct forms: l. 1. Inebriety Inebriety - Occurring Occurring

when wh en alcohol alcohol reaches reaches a a certain certain degree, degree,
variable variable with with individuals, individuals, manifesting manifesting
itself itself in in the the following manner: First First degree.. degree:
Sensation Sensation of of well-being, well-being, following manner: stimulation
stimulation of of the the intellectual intellectual faculties facuIties and and the
the imagination, imagination, slight slight swelling swelling of of the the face;
face; Second Second degree: degree: Mental Mental inincoherence, diminution of of
muscular muscular strength, strength, lack lack of of movemovecoherence, diminution
8

ALCOHOLISM. ALCOHOLISM. arcoolrsME ALCOOLISME - Intoxication Intoxication produced

produced by by the of liquids liquids containing containing alcohol. alcohol. There
There are are three three the abuse abuse of
ALGERIA ALGERIA
Theliquidtobedistilledisputdirectlyintotheboiler(in The liquid to be distilled is
put directly into the boiler (in the,bain' ofof top on oror alembic), a il naked-
flame ofof thqcase naked-flame alembic), on top the hainthe case
The heated' is is then alembic The it.il. part ofof thatforms marie marie that
forms part The alembic then heated. The pass into These vapours' alcoholic
heatieleases the ofof a"tioo action the heat relcases alcoholic vapours. These pass
into and il;;.t,tn. the serpentine(*tti"tt (whichisÎscooled cooledby byflowing
flowingwater)' water), and heat the tota was method Charente tiaditional The
condense. The traditional Charente method was heat the obtained' first "ond.rrr..
The fires. wood directly over alembics over wood fires. The firs!liquid liquid
obtained, alembics through it it passing by redistilled be toto brouillis le /e
brouil/is had he redistilled by passing through -rn.rik - -hud more. once alembic
the the alembic once more. in the incorporatedbeen have improvements of AA number
number of improvements havc been incorporated in the oh-
fashionedalembictoenablealcoholtobeobtainedatthe old-fashioned alembic to enable
alcohol to he oblained at the of the nrtt and to to ensure ensure continuous
continuous feeding feeding of the first attempt, and "tt.-pt, apparatus. apparatus.
. Traditionalists Tradîtionaiisisinsist, insist, however, however, that thatthese
theseimprovements tt""" 'boiler taste' taste' and and yield inferior inferior have
onfy only increased increased the the 'boiler
re~iUlts. results.

as distilIn In industry, industry, more morecomplicated complicated apparatus,

apparatus, such such as distilling lingtowers towerswith with rectifiers,
rectifiers,etc., etc., are areused' used.

ALGAE.ALGuE_Plantswhichliveinwater.Thenutritive ALGAE. ALGUE - Plants which live in

water. The nutritive m919 n"tu. value of of algae is is indubitable, indubitable,
and and has has generally generally been been more the 1914 ;;G".ly proved proved
than than that that of of fungi' fungi. During During the 1914

war, wu, these theS<.: ptants were were used used as as fodder fodder for for
horses' horses. value of Recent Recent iesearch research has has confirmed
confirmed the the dietetic dietetic value of it seems concerned' is human-beings
feeding As far far as as feeding human heings is concerned, it scems atgae- As
North use ih"at certain certain small small pririitive primitive tribes tribes in
in the the extreme extreme North use scarce' algae nourishment when when food food
is is scarce. algae as as emergency emergency nourishment. Scotland' in eaten are
algae of varietiei or algae are eaten in Scotland. Several varietÎes S&"tat are
used are are highly es-teemed esteemed in in the the Far Far East East and and are
used as a Sasis for a large number numher of of widely widely marketed marketed
foodstuffs' foodstuffs. that the (sea tangle) is from from ce.tain certain
laminaria laminaria species species (sea tangle) that the It is are several there
are kombus, for kombu, Japanese kombu, or or kombu.s, for there se veral called' so
calle<!. SC2IW(:eO-o;asc:Q seiweed-based dishes so until thoroughly hours
until1hl'.r"""nh for hours vinegar for in vinegar The algae are soaked in the
leaves is of 1 skin of The skin air' The open air. the open in the and dried in
saturatei and saturated, he leaves under' white the and knife, sharp a using off,
strredaed itren then shredded off, a sharp knife, and the white underinto a crushed
into and crushed then.dried is then ..."p"d. ThiJpulp fying pulp lying pulp Îs
dried and a iltp scraped. according to geometrical.shapes small geometrical into
small ot eut into powder, shapes according to io*?it, or essence' "ui anchovy
essence, like anchovy rather like condiment, rather A condiment, iequirements. A
fragments from fragments made from is made Japanese, is the Japanese, with the
popular with u"iu.w very popular sauce' soy sauce. in soy boiled in pulp, boiled
same pulp, this same of this of vegefish' vegewith fish, cooked with iscooked algae
Îs these algae pirt of of these central part The central The made beverage made A
beverage flavour' A tlieir flavour. enhance thcir to enhance soups to andsoups
tables and tables is added to Kombu is rea. Kombu like tea. drunk like isdrunk
kombu is prf"".isid kombu ir"_ pulverised from added to cut into often is It rice'
for condiment a as used as a condiment for rice. ft is often eut stews^and and used
into stews or thus'or consumed either and fire,and either consumed thus, byaa tire,
a.i"O by unadried and water' boilingwater. inboiling momentsin fewmoments foraafew
soakingititfor aftersoaking which they onewhich algae'one ofalgae, varietyof
anothervariety eatanother Japanese eat TheJapanese The they dried in are these
washed, being After artificially. Arter cultivate artificially. washed, these are
dried in pieces' and used smallpieces, ".rtiGt" intosmall rou'rt"d, crumbledinto
lightlyroasled, sun,Iightly thesun, and used the sauces. andsauces. souPs
flavoursoups toflavour and to kantus'.a is in Japanis kantus, usedin oftenused
productortcn algaeproduct Anotheralgae Another a halfshiny' white' of form in the
g"Utitt" & oigi"" rottof glue or gelatine in the form of sort shiny, halfused like
tapioca for Kantusisis flakes'Kan/us or shavlngs ;;;;.p"t.* ""'''''1 ...'''' . .
''' shavings or fiakes. used like tapioca for sauces'. and soups preparing
jellies,soups and sauces. in the great faith '^irg"""iidietetics have
Dieticianshave dietetics^_ great faith in the - Dîelicians inlong has man fact, in
And, algae. of value nlllnl!''''''lll value of algae. And, in fact, man has long
indiet' his in ""tiiTioour algae of varieties certain cluded cluded certain
varieties of algae in his diet. recognise the first the were who Japanese the was
ft It was the Japanese who were the first toto recognise the systemltic-ally' them
exploit and algae uatue Oieltic ofoi algae and tato exploit them systematically.
dietetic value bays in the cultivated porphyry genuslre the iea atga" ofof the
porphyry are cultivated in the bays Red have beds algae of thousands Hirostrimi.
and of i"r.-v" and Hiroshima. of have (lbeds to 2 vards) I to ocean' the edge trt"
sprung up ono" the edge ofof the ocean, 1 to 22 m.m' to 2 yards) particular no
presents cultivationpresents no particular surface.Gro*Cultivation below the
surface. t-he y"at' through right continues harvest the and proUf"rn problem and
the harvest continues right through the year. wayl.in variety wide a in algae
consume Japanese The Japanese consume algae in a wide variety of9f ways: in The
dishes' The various preparation the r"6;,ln-tui"at, soups, in salads, in in the
preparation ofof various dishes. The heat' and a fierce over hardened tttinty,
tii""O on"" u.. algae are often sliced thinly, hardened over a tierce heat, and

species-of chopped. This makes them easier to use' Various chopped.are This makes
them easier to use. Various kombu' of manufacture the in base a as used iurniiuti"
laminaria used asvegetable a base infor the manufacture or mixed with rice soup as
a used it thenare ;hi;h which is then used as a vegetable for or mixed wiili rice
for example' seasoned with soy sauce. bther species, kanten seasoned with soy
sauce. Olher for example, are used inpdtisserie and confectionery' interest are în
pâtisserie and \"VJlU'-·"'''Vlll..' algae are not simply a culinary expedient' and
Butused in the But algae are not simply culinary expedient, andinterest countries;
Eastern to aFar confine-d not in1t.*"i, food in themof is the not experts,
confinedthey to Far Eastern a countries; the valuable in constitute opinioo opinion
of the experts, they constitute a valuable food resource for the future. resouree
the future. that chlorella, microscopic freshwater way this ir in for ft which, is
in lhis way that ch/orella, microscopie rreshwaler themreproduce conditions,
favourable undei aljae which, under favourable conditions, themsave our planet one
day reproduce rapidity, may astonishing r.iu.t *ittt planet with astonisrung save
our to write: E. and A. N".g.te have good reason itorn fu*ioe. proved from famine.
E. and A.of liboratory animals reason write: :L;;;;;;laifeeding has to
'Experimental feedîng of and energy animaIs proved chlorellae. value of has thJ
food any doubt GVirO lipic and the food and value of chlorellae. beyond any doubt
are rich in proteinic, that chlorellae iii""pp"r.nt It is that chlorellae
areacceleraled cultivation will and and that substances, vitaminised It is
vlt:amml:sed substances., and that will supplement' important-nutritional an with
man provide provide man with an important nutritional supplement. H is with that
cultivation traditional of replacing ; qr;iion replacing Iraditional eultivation
with that not a question in the exploitation in useful maylome lattir but the of
but the tter may come in zones'' usefuJ in the exploitation or semi-arid inlaarid
of so-lar'energy globe energy in arid or semi-arid zones.' This meani that the
underprivileged peoples of thc Trus means their that the underprivileged of
elements the globe and trace quota of vitamins peoples receive could receive their
quota of vitamins and trace elements "o"n which at present they entirely lack'
which at present they entirely Jack.

ii

;;i ;i;G;,

ALGERIA.lrcfnn_Algeriaisanessentiallyagricultural

ALGER lA. ALGÉRŒ - Aigeria is anwhere essentially cultivation cerealagrîeultural

iell region in the i.p.cially t*n,r', while country, especially in the Tell region
where cereal eultivation plains'

--tlg;. it ;;;; -

d.il*

;;;;*

"i ;t;;;G

ti,.

"ifr"

oredominates. Pasture lands extind to the high are landsunsuitable ex tend to the
hîgh plains, while agriculture for and land irr"-rnou"tuinsPasture mountains and
land unsuitable for agriculture are considerable of therefore, a country, is It
forest. with granaries' covered wi th forest. 1t îs a country, therefore, of
considera ble "ont..O resources. In ancient times it was one of Rome's one of
Rome's resources. In ancient was barley' oats' wheat, cereal: of form il every
times Atgeria has Algeria has etc. \theat form cereal: valued wheat, for the
manuoats, especially is of .iff"t, -uirE, a produces maize, millet, etc. is valued
for the manuit since products, semolina pasta and of i;;tut; of does facture pasta
andswelling semolina since it of cooking' the process in products, while p".tt
*fti.tt, pasta whieh, while swellîng in the process of not lose its shaPe. ---ine
not lose its shape. vineyards, work ofthc French colonists, are atgerian The
Aigerian vineyards, work the French are are gradually They colonists, Algiers'
andof Oian around situated riainly around Oran and of Mascara' are gradua!ly
situated mainly Mostaganem The wines Oi-ini.f,i"g in number. diminisbing in number.
The wines time of the and M6d6a are among the best known' Since the V.D.Q.S. and
Médéa are among the best known. Since time of the classified been have they
administratio-n ri.n"r, and have French administration they been c!assified content
V.D.Q.S. high alcohol of have (q.v.). They are generally of (q.v.).
r.".pirflu"alities, are generally of high alcoho\ and have the providence
thelrcontent mate. wtrictr good a."t"rs-who specialise which them the dessert
grapes of Early blending. in make iin. wîne specialise in blending. Barly are
exported in June. are Plums, exported in June. and almonds are other equally early
greengages as almonds are other equally early Plums, greengages fruits such
Algerian the specifically theie areand Then fruits. dried fruits. Then there are
the specifically such as two are The last fruits and figs' Algerian dates o.*nl.q
tangerines, dates andquantities' figs. The last twoproportion are dried o.ranges,
tangerines., A large considerable uiia &pottdin manuthe in and exported in
considerable quantities. A large proportion locally are used tangerines g"t and
irut oiitt" of the oranges and tangerines are used locally in the manufacture of
liqueurs. faclure of liqueurs. farming produces excellent quality potatoes'
Vegetable producespeas' excellent Vegetable farming carrots, melons' wa!e-
rtomatoes, artichokes, beani in tomatoes, peas, carrots, waterbeans, artichokes,
olives are cultivated (eggplints)' and aubergines m' 900 and aubergines
(eggplants). Olives are cultivated in melons up to regions higher aliw in and
regions itt. tittot"t the littoral regions and in a fewRefineries higher regions -
upon to the 900 spot m. situated altitude. re-eg in 3000 iover3000 golde.n' (over
in altitude. Refineries situated fruity' on the easy-fl9wing, quality-oil, very
good produce a feet) of the oiL easy-tlowing, fruit y, and crustaceans coasts
furnish all ihe'fish The a The coas(s . fish and crustaceans of the those to
similar very mer de as/rzdts well as Mediterranean, Mediterranean, as weil asfruits
de mer very similar to those ofProvence' on the coast found found on the coast
Provence. feed on the pasture lands of the livestock of of ft"rds iuig. cattle,
ofare livestock on the landsas of the Large herds many sheep as pasture ten times
about feed There interiolr. for There arewhy about teo times asmany many more sheep
recipes. as cattle, interior. explains so are there *tti.ft are so Algerian more
recipes foras which there such animals' ndigenous -utton than for beif. a
gastroIndigenous animais, such as camels and gazelles' appear on the menu more as
in an appear on the menu more as a gastronomical curiosity than inyttring else, and
are treated exceptional manner. anything else, and are treated in an exceptional
manner. cooking is not so very different from that of Algerian cooking is not 50
very different from that of

!l#

;;i;;t

AE;;;.

9
ALGERIA
ALGERIA
Tunisia and Morocco. All three come under the heading of Arab cuisine. Tunisia and
Morocco. Ali three come under the heading of Spices abound: absinth, verbena,
basil, citron, gum Arab cuisine. resin, mint, sesame, pimentos, abound: absinth,
verbena, basil, citron, gum *itf, resin, Spices etc. Dishes are flavouiJ ,r, el-
hanout, a blend mint, sesame, pimentos, etc. Dishes are flavoured with ras of-
twenty-seven different spices inseparably linked of twenty-seven different spices
inseparel-hanoul, a blend with the feast oi Atd-et-Kibir. cuisine of Aid-el-Kébir.
ablyArab Iinked with the feastcookery'. or 6tent cursrNE ARABE _ This type of food
is simple CUlSINE ARABE - This Arab cuisine or 'tent and cookery'. healthyj the
milk, oit, semotioa, .iJi d?r:1 vegetables, of food is simple andhealthy; the milk,
oil, semolina, pasta products, condiments and meats go wrucn dates, vegetables,
pasta products, and produce meats lnto its composition are condiments all excellent
and easilygo digestible which into its composition are ail excellent and produce
dishes. The easily digestible method dishes. of slaughter.used by the Arabs,
consisting of seygringthe The methodneck, of slaughter used by the th. Arabs, of
the.windpipe jugutar;;;r;; two consisting without the "nd h-fting severing neck,
the windpipe and the two ii cimprete,-is the knife offuntil severance particularly
without lifting knife off until severance tothe be recommended. n,ol1"t,,.,,I!1lrlv
to eat be recommended. The Arabs only the flesh of animals; the blood is for_
bidden. Theeat the flesh ofwhich animais; the the blood is forKoran lays down foods
e*U, permitted Theto Koran down which foodsanimals, the Arabs are bidden. eat. "*
includes aquatic il; _This poultry and pennitted to all eat. includes ail birds,
except "iithe birds aquatic of prey_animais, day or nocturnal poultry and ail
birds, except birds o""n, of prey day or nocturnal animals, - all livestock cimels,
,h".p,'"t..,-*iin-t-fr" - exception ail livestock animais, camels, of pig and wild
boar. oxen, sheep, etc., with the exception of pig and wild boar. The lawgiver
advises his faithfur: 'Do not eat . The in a crouching 'Do not eat in a crouchhisas
faithful: or lawgiver huddled advises position, this position inclines on. to .ut
too or ing huddled as this inclinesas one to eat much, but sit at the table in
position Juch a manner to appear always too much, but to get at the table in su ch
a manner as to appear ready up., always ready to get up.' Arabs generally drink
only once, after a meal, when a communal Arabs generally drink only once, after a
meal, a vessel (guerba), containing spring watei when o, _if{ makes the round
communal vessel (guerba), containing spring water or milk, of those participatiig
in the meal. The the person makes round of thoseshourd participating in the into
meal. drinking not bieathe the bowr The drinking not breathe into the bowl liquid;
heshould must remove it from ni, fip, U"for. ::i9iTi"g.,he co:nUllln:mg thebreathe
liquid; again. be must remove it from his before oegmrung to Then he may resume
drinkine. A be~~mrurlg to breathe Then he cup of coffee and a pipe of tobacco
coffee a meal of the "i*"y" """.i"J.'l'rr". true and Arab. of the true Arab.
Coffee, a Moslem beverage, is the inseparable companion Coffee, a Moslem beverage,
is the inseparable companion 9f tglu:l (they constitute the two great pt"urur.r'oi
it of tobacco constitute the two great pleasures of the rt- is (they very rich in
tonic substanr"r uno trt.irior. " ,{rab)' u..y rich in toniethe substances and
therefore very Arab). It is beneficial in very a country where summer temperature
varies beneficiaJ in a where the summer temperature varies between 25'C. and 50"C.
(77"F. and 122.F.). between 25°C. and The tea hour and is a ritual. There is mint
tea, absinth and sage teaThe teawith hour is a ri tuaI. basil and is mint tea,
laced marjoram, ambergri, 1un uro_"ti. tea lacedserved with with ambergris basil
balls and ambergris lnruslon mounted in silver is the infusion served ambergris
balls mounted ultimate refinement) ultimate refinement). Arabs drink no wine; the
Koran forbids it. Arabs drink no wine; the Koran forbids it. One of the authors of
the commentaries to the Koran, Sidi One of the authors the commentaries the Koran,
Sidi Dylaleddine, thinks, of prophet however, that theto *rrt Dylaleddine, thinks,
however, that the Prophet simply wanted to forbid excessive wine drinking, and that
*in, i, wanted toprovided forbid excessive drinking, permitted one doeswine not get
arunk. and that wine is pennitted one doessaid: not .Eat drunk. Another, provided
one better, and drink, but with-going going better, and drink, but without Another,
excess, for Godone loves not him who commits excess., .When out excess, for God
loves not him who commits excess.' Arrb gastronomical customs _ the food is-
s"rueO,, Arab gastronomieal customs 'When the food is served,' EJ SV.aut6,.'help
yourself from around tfre eage ofifrl :?f El qrsn, Syauté, 'help yourself from
around the edge teavrng the middle, as the blessing of heavenof the leaving the
middle, as the blessing of heaven will will descend upon it.' descend upon of. it.'
hospitality. are rigorously observed by the .,1|11-11*,.. The laws bo~;pitalit:y by
the rvroslems. lt a of stranger, be he we]l or poorly dressed, upp"urc If a
stranger, or of Moslems. at the entrane to a tent, or at the door a t
ou*",'unO'urt, at the entrance the to a master tent, or of at the house, asks for
hospitality, the door household i_;;;;i; for hospitality, the master of the
household immediately answers: 'Be welcome,, and bids him enter, indicatinj and
which bids him enter, indicatinga a answers: 'Becarpet welcome,' o1 the nla99 or
mat covers the floor. Im_ place on the carpet or mat which covers the tloor.
Immediately, the visit is treated as a festive occasion mediately, the avisit as a
festive occasionand andthe the guTt is offered cup is oftreated coffee or tea and
whatever there is iseat. offered a cup of coffee or tea and whatever there is guest
ready to to eaL _H_ospitality is the duty of every good Moslem. of every good
Moslem. When a Moslem family offers ybriro.rln esselmenor some you sorne messe/men
or sorne y.baa1-el garroussa (cakes in thi fo.m oi tapering fingers or of tapering
fingers or sebaas-el aarroussa in the fonn biscuits shaped like small hands) it
is-; ,ig' tt-"t t;;;;; biscuits shaped like smaU hands) it is a sign that you are
welcome. welcome. The pattern ofthe hand seen on the cakes, on the tents. on the
tents, on The pattern of the hand seen on the cakes, on
the walls, windows and doors of Moslem houses, issymbol a symbol the walls, windows
and doors of Moslem hou ses, is a of power and has an historical significance. of
power and has an historical significance. Moses, having changed his rod into a
serp€nt, showed cbanged his rod into a serpent, showed hishis ,Moses, having
Pharaoh, bear witness po*.r.-fn. 114^tl hand to Pharaoh, as as if if to to bear
witness to to hishis power. Tbe faithful th's adopted the symbol of the hand of
Moses faithful thus adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses as as a a protection
from the evil eye. protection from the evil rigid period of fasting, the Ramadan,
prescribed of the Ramadan, is is pre:scrlbf:d A y1ry .-A ror a,, Mosrems during alr
daylight hours of the.n^ti.. month hours of the month of Ramadan, which is the
ninth-month of the fvfonammeOan month of the Mohammedan year. year. The word
Ramadan comes from a verb meaning rain, The word Ramadan cornes from a verb meaning
toto rain, because washes away the sins of the flesh and .t.""nr", washes away the
sins of the flesh and cleanses the because it it lt. heart of its impurities. heart
of its .rn.nllf·,tll'<;: The period of fasting was laid down by Mohammed, _ The
during second year oithe Hegira, to sanciify by,;Eious during the second year
observance the memory of what-happened toit. fi;f;; observance the when he ate the
forbidden fruit. Ad'am, banished when he ate the fruit. fro. tfr" Garden of Fden,
cried bitterly, but his iepentance Garden of Eden, cried bitterly, but his
repentance was not was not by God until thirty days after iri,fall, fall,when
lccgltedby God untÏl thirty accepted days al' ter his *h;;rus il; body had been
cleansed of the impurities with body had been c1eansed of the impurities with wruch
whichhis his disobedienoe had tainted him, and posterity wasthus disobedience had
tainted him, and posterity was thusconcon. demned to a consecutive fast of thiriy
days year. demned to a consecutive fast of thirty aa year. During themonth month
ofRamadan Ramadanthe the-Moslems must must of abstain the abstain ^ from drinkand
andtobacco tobaccol'rom fromsunrise sunriseto tosunset. sunset. l'rom food,drink
NorthAfrica, Africa,where Islam is isthe predominatingreliyhergIslam
thepredominating In North .In reli_ gion, burst of artilery fire announces to the
faithfu]that gion, aaburst of artillery fire announces to the faithful th;t Ramadan
has commenced. During the ensuing Ramadan has commenced. During the ensuing thirty
tfrirtydays auy,a single cannon shot fired firedeach each evening at " atsunset
sunset signaIs single cannon shot signalsthe the "u"iing end offasting for that
day. end of fasting for that day. Ramadan ends ends with with pantagruelian feasts,
feasts,called Ramadan ia-e/called A Aid-etKibir, which which somewhat
somewhat ."r".ibl, the the Christian Christian Christmas Kébir, Christmas dinner.
Moslems who cannot cannot celebrate celebrate this this feast feast at dinner.
Moslems who at home home gather together in Moorish caf6s. gather together in
Moorish cafés. Culingry specialities specialities of of Nortb North AfricaAfrica _
Culinary Adssida. Flour Flour boiled boiled in in water, water, then then mixed
mixed with Aâssida. with butter. butter. Basco-utou. Spanish Spanish loaf loaf made
made of of egg yolks, flour egg yolks, BascoulOu. flour and and orange blossoms.
blossoms. orange Bissar. Drid beans cooked in water and and oil Bissar. Dried beans
cooked in water oil until until they they form a a sort eaten hot hot or or cold.
form sort ofjelly; eaten head a brisk fire to remove Bouzel/ouf he ad singed on a
remove ,,Bgulellou!..Sheep's au with oil, ail hatrs; hairs; boiled, boiled, then
seasoned witb oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, pepper pepper and and garlic. garlic.
Breyes beylicales. beylicales. Little Little squares of of cooked semolina semolina
mixed .Bleyes with pistachio almonds. with pistachio nuts, nuts, walnutJ walnuts
and almonds. Brik.Eggs Brik. Eggs in in puffpastry puff pastry fried fried in in
oil. oil. Cacao. Cacao. Little Little reddi*-brgy reddish-brown lozenges lozenges
made made from from sugar, sugar, pistachio pistachio nuts, nuts, almonds almonds
and and lemon lemon essence. "i"o"". Chekchuka. A dish Chekchuka. A dish made made
of of sweet sweet or or strong strong peppers, peppers, tomatoes, tomatoes, baby
baby marrows marrows _(zucchini) (zucchini) or or auU"rglnir-ffi aubergines
(eggplants), plan ts),-cut cut in in pieces pieces and and fried fried in in olive
olive oit oil *ttiguiit with garlic u?"0 and onion, and onion, the the whole
wholeeither eithermixed mixed with with beaten beaten eggs, eggs, or or not, not,
and cooked cookedfor for aa few few minutes minuteson on aa slow slow fire. fire.
Cherb-a-bel-fnft. Green Greencorn corn soup. soup. Djendjelem. A whitish, whitish,
soft soft_pastl, made made of ofsugar, sugar, ginger, ginger, starch and andaapinch
pinchof ofpepper. pepper.It is isbought boughtready--madi. ready-made. of rice,
chopped chopped meat meat Dolma. Highly Highly seasoned seasoned mixture mixture
oirice, lolrya. and andonions. onionsyrapped wrappedin incabbage cabbageleaves,
leaves,covered coveredwith withwater water and andcooked cookedin inaacasserole
casserolewith-fire with firebelow belowand andabove. above.simii;; Similar to
Turkishdolma. dolma. toTurkish Douara. Douara.Boiled Boiledpluck pluckand andtripe
tripeseasoned seasonedwith withcumin cuminand and

sprces.

Guizada. A A kind kindof ofscalloped scallUIPOO little liUlecookie cookiemade

madefrom from semolina and eggs, baked in the oven. oven. and semolina Homse. and
coated with honey. friedand Homse.Little balls of phste friod coated with honey.
Kabab. Mutton cut cut into squares, braised Kabab. Mutton braised io in butter,
seasoned with salt and pepper an-d served seasoned with salt and pepper served
liberally garnished liberally with sliced onions and parsley. and parsley. with
sliced onions Kefta.Chopped and spiced mutton, Kefta. Chopped and spiced mutton,
shaped into rissoles shaped into rissoles

f"tC g";iJ;;

l010
ALIMENT ALIMENT
and grilled grilled over over a a wood wood fire. fire. and mutton cooked cooked in
in oil oil and and fat fat and and thus th us prepreKhali'. Dried Dried mutton
Khali'. served. served. LianL Lamb stew stew with with chick chick peas, peas,
seasoned seasoned with with wild wild Liani. Lamb parsley. parsley. Pastry lozenges
lozenges stuffed shlffed with with dates. dates. Makrouda. Pastry Makrouda.
M'darbel. Mixture Mixture of of fried fried baby baby marrows marrows (zucchini)
(zucchini) and and M'darbel. !ittle pieces of of beef beef fried fried in in oil
oil seasoned seasoned with with hot hot pimento pimento and and little a dash
ofvinegar. of vinegar. a Chickenfricassée with with chick chick peas. peas.
Mekechter. Chicken/ricassie Mekechter. Merga. Strongly Strongly spiced spiced stock
stock made made of of mutton'or mutton'or chicken, chicken, Merga. or both, both,
which which the the Arabs Arabs drink drink only only when when it it is is very
very cold or or in or of illness. cases ofillness. cases Cake made made from from
milk, milk, semolina, semolina, pistachio pistachio nuts, nuts, M'habia. Cake
M'habia. walnuts and and pine nuts. nuts. walnuts pasta and tomatoes. M'hamsa. Soup
with with pasta M'hamsa. Mokh. Sheep's brain and and tongue, seasoned with garlic,
Mokh. parsley. cayenne pepper and wild parsley. cayenne made from from chopped
chopped sheep's sheep's pluck Osbane. Forcemeat made Osbane. and meat, mixed mixed
with rice, rice, seasoned seasoned with red red pepper and and stuffing sheep's
intestines. intestines. spices. Used for stuffing J'{II'Y1-lJer-lelrTGSS A stew
made of of gazelle meat and Saharan Saharan Rim-bel-terfa,rs. truffles (Saharan
dish). trufres Mixture of chopped mutton and onions seasoned seasoned Sferia.
Mixture with salt, salt, pepper and and cumin. These These are are shaped into !
iule little with fried in butter. butter. balls, dipped in egg and fried Tadjin
helou. Very delicate stew made of mutton or beef, quinces. veÉ~et,lbl(!s in and a a
few few quinees. or raisins and vegetables in season, season, prunes or covered
with pie pastry and and cooked in the oyen. oven. This is covered Terbia-bel-hebar.
Macédoine of vegetables served with a with a Terbia-bel-hebar. Macidoine (little
bustard or field duck). roast bustard (!iule Tleitli. Macaroni garnished with
chopped chopped meat and baked Macaroni garnished eggs. eggs. Tomina. in an an
earthenware Tomina. Coarse cooked in Coarse semolina semolina cooked and boiling
honey. casserole and plunged into butter and petals, rose petaIs, Yubbo. Cake made
from honey, olive oil, rose ftour flour and dandelions. Other much-valued palm
milk; Other specialities include lagni, lagni, much-valued leben, and kéfir k6fir
made from cow's, cow's, leben, which is nothing but whey; whey ; and goat's goat's
or rahatloucoum, sahleb, sahleb, chreyba, rahatloucoum, or sbeep's sheep's milk;
chreyba, rogagues, messelmen, dates, etc. makroutes, stuffed stufed dates, etc.
messelmen, makroutes, (in its And forms), several forms), its several list tadjins
(in And when we add to to this list we add (see méchoui its various accompaniments
(see michoui and and couscous couscous with its COUSCOUS) Israeli and Israeli of
Tunisian and delicacies of and the the delicacies COUSCOUS) and cuisine, need not
not cookery need African regional cookery we realise realise that that African
cuisine, we fear more sophisticated metropolitan with more fear comparison
comparison with cusine. cusine.
garnish, ALGÉRIENNE (A L') a garnish, is the the name name of of a L') -- This This
is ALGfRIENNE (À aplpl!c:able tomatoes principally to of small tomatoes to meaL
meat. It It consists consists ofsmall applicable nnnf',r.",II" potato croquettes,
or sweet potato croquettes, or accompanied by by sweet braiSed in oil acc;onlpamHX1
in butter. butter. sweet potatoes cooked in This This rago,fit ragoût is is a
country country dish dish called called alicot alicot rn in dialect. dialect. The
The etymological etymological root root is is retained retained in in all aU its
its various various forms: forms: ali, a/i, wings; wings; cait, cuit, cooked.

root alt to cause to to grow. grow. The The Celtic root ait means means
nourishment. nourishment. The The word word 'aliment' 'aliment' indicates indicates
an an object, object, while while the the word word

ALIMENTALIMENT - Derived Derived from from the the Latin Latin word word alere:to
alere: to nourish, nourish,

ALICA were very Romans were which the the Romans of porridge of of which A sort
ALICA -- A sort of fond. (hard or wheat, what durum wheat, spelt (hard or durum It
was wils prepared with spelt fond. It today a sort sort of of clay clay mixed with
with a known as wheat) mixed as German German wheat) today is is known (creta)
(creta\ found hill of of Naples on on the the hill and Naples Pozzuoli and found
between between Pozzuoli Leucogee Alica. (Pliny). A from Alica. was also also made
made from A drink drink was Leucogee (Phny). It sesterces to to 20,000 sesterces
rent of of 20,000 a rent said that Augustus paid a It is is said that Augustus the
(Creta in n to this this clay. clay. (Creta Neapolitans for for the the exclusive
right to the Neapolitans Latin ans both 'clay' and and 'chalk'.) Latin me means
both 'clay' ALICANTE (vtN D') A very very well-known well-known o') -- A WINE.
ALICANTE ALIcANTE (VIN ALICANTE WINE. dessert province of This is is Alicante. This
of Alicante. wine from from the the Spanish Spanish province dessert wine also
variety of of red red given in the midi midi of of France France to to aa variety
also the the name name given n the grape (known, too, as Grenache). grape (known,
Grenache). too, as ALICUIT (principgiblets (princip(Languedoc cookery) of giblets
Ragofrt of cookery) -- Ragoût ALICUIT (Languedoc ally prepared as gszzards and as
described described in in the the wings) prepared ally turkey and wings) turkey
gizzards recipe (see GIBLETS). giblets bonne-femme bonne-femme (see GIBLETS).
recipefor for Turkey Turkey giblets
Il ll

'nourishment' 'nourishment' indicates indicates an an action, action, although

although the the latter latter is is often employed as a synonym of 'aliment'.
'aliment'. Any Any substance substance which upon entering the the body is is
capable of supplying supplying it it with materials materials for for growth or or
repair repair and and with fuel for its energy energy requirements is an aliment.
aliment. Simple aliments aliments are are those that the organism consumes consumes
and absorbs hc,..... }.", without ",;t!"... "t first submitting them them to to
modification modification;; water, (see which is of of considerable considerable
alimentary importance (see which is in this substances WATER), WATER), and sea salt
are about the only :ou ILJ:>L,alllvC;:O in category. must begin we must To study
study the To the aliments aliments we begin by selecting the genuinely alible of
each each one one and proceed to alible elements elements of elementary consider as
eleme:nUlry examine examine them individually. Today we consider (that is of
carbon, is substances of aliments, ternary substances (that substances are always
hydrogen hyd rogen and oxygen). These ternary su bstances are the carbomineral
elements, elements, namely the associated with with other mineraI (also called
zirrocalled nitrofats and and quaternary substances (also hydrates, fats gmous
substances nitrogen combines combines witb with the substances because because
nitrogen genous are and oxygen). oxygen). Quaternary substances are carbon,
hydrogen and carbon, (formerly called proteids or proteins (formerly To these
called albuminoids). albuminoids). To (simple, ternary and quaterand quaterthree
broad classes of aliments (simple, and vitamins. mineral substances substances and
add minerai nary) we must add and sugars. sugars. starches and Carbohydrates are
represented by the starches animal tissues, tissues, quantities present in in sorne
some animal small quantities from small Apart from the digestive action of of the
The action all of of vegetable origin. The these are ail glucose which by is
absorbed by which is ferments transforms them into glucose fennents glycogen or or
liver into into glycogen the liver by the then condensed condensed by the blood,
blood, then the the little by little little to to meet the down Ettle is broken
down starch. This This is animal starch. animal decomposition of this this
decomposition The final final stage stage of requirements. The body's requirements.
illnesses the the proyields water and In certain certain illnesses acid. In and
carbonic carbonic acid. products and intermediary intermediary pn.)UUl,;lS is
arrested arrested and cess of of decomposition decomposition is cess quantity of of
(acids) which When the the quantity the blood. blood. When remain in in the which
remain form (acids) fonn a a level level as as a too high a glucose circulating
reaches too in the the blood blood reaches circulating in glucose part of it is
eliminated of il eliminated transformation, part result of of inadequate inadequate
transformation, result is Such is (which normally any). Such not con contain does
not normally does in the the urine urine (which in tain any). in diabetes.
diabetes. case in the the case fats. These These carbohydrates into into fats. can
transform transform carbohydrates The body body can The interchangeable. to an an
extent extent interchangeable. two aliments aliments are are therefore therefore to
two glycerine of glyeerine fatty bodies are esters: esters: compounds compounds of
or fatty bodies are The fats fats or The present in are present in both both fatty
bodies fatty acids. acids. Alimentary Alimentary fatty bodies are and fatty and
ferments kingdoms. The The digestive digestive ferments and vegetable vegetable
kingdoms. the animal animal and the themselves to to which then then reconstitute
reconstitute themselves decompose the the fats, which decompose and laid dOWll down
in in the the tissues tissues and fats. The fat fat is is th then form organic
fats. en laid form body and is is utilised utilised by by the the body in the
cellular tissue, tissue, and the cellular especially in \.<"k-''''''''''Y is not
not the fat fat thus thus laid laid in' idreserve needs. When When the according to
to its its needs. according reserve is quantity by in the the the body, it accumula
accumulates by the body, it used in in sufficient sufficient quantity used tes in
results in in obesity. obesity. and tissues tissues and and results organs and
partially replaced in in the the diet diet by carbocarboFats may be be partially
diet the diet are not not absolute equivalents equivalents and the hydrates, but
these these are hydrates, fats minimum of of 70 70g. oz.) fats must contain contain
aa minimum adult must of an an adult of QLoz.) S. (21 it must must insummer but it
may he decreased in sr,rmmer but daily. This This amount amount may be decreased
daily. (l oz.) g.(l (1* perday, oz.) which 25 25g. g. (1 day, of of which a0 g.
oz.) per never fall fall below below 40 never t oz.) animal fat. fat. should
beanimal should be part of of certain certain organs, and forms aa normal normal
part fat forms Although Although fat too, are are constitutive constitutive
elements of although although carbohydrates, carbohydrates, too, is principal
function twoelements elements is function ofthese of these two theprincipal certain
certain tissues, tissues, the is that the the body body is provide energy. to them
them that It is is thanks thanks to to to provide energy. It capable physical
exertion maintaining its its,,,,,,,,,,,",r,,_ temperaand of of maintaining exertion
and capable of of physical as,",V'''U'''''Ll combustives, therefore, mainly as are
considered, considered, therefore, ture. Theyare ture. in ..u ..'",t,,nf aliments,
theoxygen oxygenin it is is through the aliments, since since it respiratory or as
r"<: iseffected. bustion is effected. the air thattbis this corn combustion
ALIMENT ALIMENT
Theoretically, fats fats decompose decompose into into carbonic carbonic acid acid
and and Theoretically, (like the water (Iike the carbohydrates); carbohydrates);
but in certain but in certain illnesses illnesses this this water decomposition
stops stops at at one one of of several several intermediate intermediate stages
stages decomposition and the the resulting resulting excess exc€ss of of fatty
fatty acids acids found found in in the the blood blood and constitutes one one of
of the the factors factors of of acidosis. acidosis. constitutes The albuminoids
albuminoidsQtroteinic quaternary substances) or quaLernary substances\
concon(proteinic or The tain carbon, carbon, hydrogen, hydrogen, oxygen principal
elements, oxygen as as their their principal elements, tain and a a fourth fourth
-- rutrogen. nitrogen. Their Their chemical chemical composition composition is is
and (see ALBUMINOIDS). extremely complex complex (see ALBUMINOIDS). Under Under the
the extremely influenoe of digestive elements of digestive elements they they are
are subjected subjected to to a a series series influence of modifications
modifications which production of which terminate terminate in in the the
production of of albumins; these these are are used used in in the constitution
constitution of of our our tissues. tissues. albumins; organism uses partly as the
albuminoids The organism uses the albuminoids partly as energy energy The
principally to factors, but growth and but principally to aid aid growth and in in
the the reparation factors, of our our tissues. tissues. of Unlike carbohydrates
carbohydrates and fats, fats, albuminoids albuminoids do do not underUnlike go
total total deeomposition; decomposition; in in eight cases cases out of of ten ten
this stops at at go theurea stage, the remainder being eliminated in the the form
form of of the urea stage, various nitrogenous nitrogenous substances, sorne some
ofwhich of which have still still not not various been determined. determined. been
(the great Deficiencies of great transformer of the the liver liver (the
transformer of nitronitroDeficiencies genous substances) or (the great great
eliminators or of of the the kidneys kidnep (the eliminators genous of the
proteins, or the same) cause cause proteins, products of disintegraor their their
products of tion, to accumulate accumulate in in the blood and a serious disorder
called called tion, (of which azotaemia results results (of which uraemia is is a a
modification). modification). ln In azotaemio instances, the other instances, the
urine is found found to to contain contain substances it it other not ta ougbt not
to contain contain such such as as aminic acids or even albumins ought
(ahuminuria'1. (albuminuria). group alsa albuminoid group The albuminoid also
comprises related subcomprises closely related The known as as proteidae which are
are albumins combined stances known proteidae which with a a carbohydrate
carbohydrate to form a a paranucleine with to fOTm paranuc/eine
(paranucleoQtaranucleoproteides). proteides). 'albuminoids' are Finally, classod as
as 'albuminoids' are non-proteic non-proteic nitronitroFinally, classed genous
substances gelatine, keratin, substances like like ge1atine, genous keratin, etc.
Minerals,too, are indispensable Minerais, too, are indispensable elements of of our
alimenta(sea salt) tion. Sodium chloride chloride (sea mineral used alone tion.
Sodium salt) is is the only minerai in state; the occur as of various elements of
in its its natural natural state; the others oceur as elements various (probably
the compounds only form fonn in which they they are compounds (probably the only in
which assimilable) combined with albuminoids, carbohydrates carbohydrates
assimilable) with the albuminoids, and and fats fats of of our our natural natural
foods. We know the tbe approximate approximate needs needs of of the organism
organism as as regards regards We know certain daily in certain chemical chemical
substances substances that tbat are are eliminated eliminated daily ponderable The
excreLa, excreta, for example, remove ponderable quantities. quantities. The for
example, from 4-75 body each day on average average 7 g. g. soda, soda, 4· 75 g. g.
potasfrom the the body sium, sium, 1.25 1·25 g. g. calcium, calcium, 1.63 1·63 g.
g. phosphorus, phosphorus, 0.5 0·5 g. g. magnesia, magnesia, quantity of 0.05 0·05
g. g. iron, Iron, 0.05 0-05 g. g. sulphur, sulphur, as as well weil as as a a small
quantity of chloride chloride and and traces traces of of manganese, manganese,
bromine, bromine, iodine, silica and and fluorine. fluorine. Other Other elements
elements enter enter into into alimentation alimentation in imponderable say that
Imponderable quantity, quantity, which which does does not not mean mean to to say
their their r6le rôle is is insignificant; insignificant; in in fact fact there is
is a probability probability that we we may may find nnd among among these these
imponderables împonderables an explanation expia na Lion for for the part vitamins
vitamins play play in in the the diet. diel. For For example, example, recent
recent the part research that vitamins vitamins act as as coenzymes coenzymes (or
(or research has has revealed revealed that codiastases) codiastases) and and are
are therefore therefore involved involved in in the the degradation degradation or
or resynthesis resynthesis of of the the various various nutriments. nutriments.
Remineralisation Remineralisation experiments have been been carried carried out
with witb animals. That is is to to say, say, the the principal principal minerals
minerais have have been been animais. That removed from their their alimentation
alimentation and replaced replaced by complex complex removed from mineral minerai
mixtures. mixtures. These These experiments experiments invariably invariably
failed when chemically chemically pure pure salts salts were were used; used;
positive positive results results were obob· tained tained using using less-well-
purified less-well-purified salts, which which shows the the important portant r6le
rôle impurities impurities (i.e., (i.e., the the imponderable im ponderable traces
traces of of certain certain elements) elements) play play in in the tbe diet. Most
Most of of the the chemists chemists who who have have analysed analysed the the
aliments aliments have have determined detcrmined their their total total
mineralisation mineralisation by by reducing reducing them them to to the the form
of ash. ash. This This calls calls for for complicated complicated calculations
calcuJations and and form of gives gives far far from from accurate accurate
results results when when the the final final figure figure is i5 applied applied
to to fresh fresh foods, foods, such such as as those those we we consume consume
daily. daily. This This is explained explained not not only only by diversity of by
the the diversity the methods of the methods ememis (in the ployed, but but also
also (in animal) by the animal) by the the differences differences arising arising
ployed, from the the race, race, feeding feeding and and cuts cuts considered;
considered; in in the the vegetable. vegetable, from the variety, variety, the the
soil soil in in which which it has been been cultivated, it has cultivated, the the
the part analysed. fertiliser used, analysed. used; the the part fertiliser M. R.
R. Berg Berg has has calculated calculated the the figures figures for for cabbages
cabbages in in the the M. table. accompanying table. CABBAGES GATHERED GATHERED
CADDAGES in March March in Decemba December in in

potassium Oxide of of potassium Oxide

of sodium sodium Oxide of
lime Oxide of lime

0.5067 0·5067

0.6748 0·6748
0.0640 0·0640 0.1596 0·1596

iron of iron Oxide of

anhydride Phosphoric anhydride

0.0330 0.1730 0·1730 0.22t6 0·2216 0.5833 0·5833

0·0330
0.5833 0·5833 0.6550 0·6550

0.2870 0·2870
0.0287 0·0287 0.2569 0·2569 0.4445 0·4445

Sulphuric anhydride Chlorine

cent of offresh substances fresh substances Per cent is made of the Figures vary
according to whether analysis is leaves, the the interior leaves leaves or or the
the buds buds of the the vegevegeexterior leavcs, table. Basic Basic elements
predominate in in the exterior, exterior, whereas interior leaves and, in
particular, the the buds, are distinctly the interior acid. ratio and the ratio and
proportion of Cooking procedures modify the mineral salts primarily by dissolving
the alkaline elements, minerai pieoe of so that that if if a a piece of beef in
which the acid elements the acid elements presa in which dominate is boiled an an
alkaline alkaline stock can can be obtained. effect of cooking is even more more
marked with vegetables. The elTeet of cooking Blanching (prerequisite in in the
manufacture of tinned food) reduces the mineral minerai content of vegetables and
destroys destroys the minerals. Prolonged boiling has an even more damagbasic
mineraIs. ing effect. The effects are less iog elTect. effecls of other methods of
cooking cook.ing are Jess drastic since sine thejuices the juices released by the
the vegetable vegetable are usually usually consumed consumed with it. iL

TOTAL IN: COOKING /N: TOTAL MINERAL MINERAL TOSS LOSS DURING DUR/NG COOK/NG
Water per cent cent

Water

Oil per cent cent

30.59 30·59 31.33 31·33

Fat Fat per cent cent

20.91 20·91

Butter Butter

per cent cenl

19.65 19·65

49.95 Carrots Carrots 49·95 Potatoes 66.74 66·74 Potatoes 66'67 Onions Onions 66·67
Carrots 52.05 52·05 Carrots Potatoes 57.61 57·61 Potatoes Onions 66'67 Onions 66·67

52'38 52·38
60

42.85 42·85

47.25 47·25
23.97 23·97

53.M 53·44

LOSS OF POTASSIUM SALTS

14.38 14·38

22.60 22·60

20-46 20-46
13.33 13·33

l11·51 l.5l 19.16 19·16

tt.97 11·97
26.67 26·67

Some have shown shown how how the the total total loss loss of Sorne experiments
have minerals minerais and and potassium salts varies according aceording to 10
different dilTerent cooking cooking procedures. procedures. Artificial Artificial
aliments aUments - Natural foods that that have have been been prepared
industrially are not not included included under under this heading heading (they
pared industrially will with later). later). Here Here we we are referring to
aliments aliments will be dealt with that that have have been been chemically
treated treated in order to make them more more digestible digestible or or more
more easily easily assimilated: assimilated: there there are are many many of them.
them. Among Among the the nitrogenous rutrogenous substances substances are are
purified purified albumins, albumins, legumin, legumin, albumoses albumoses and and
peptones. peptones. All AU these these proproducts can can be be prescribed
prescribed therapeutically therapeutically but but their their prolonged prolonged
use use inevitably inevi ta bly leads leads to to disorders; disorders; they they
have have never ne ver succeeded succeeded in supplementing natural natural foods
foods in in the the adult diet. diet. As As far as as in supplementing children
those children are are concerned, co ncerned , modified modified artificial
artificial foods foods are are those most most frequently frequently used, used,
dextrined dextrined and and malted malted flours, flours, etc. etc.

l2 12
ALIMENT
Chemical aliments - We We must must not not forget forget that that even even if if
albuminoids, albuminoids, carbohydrates carbohydrates and fatty fany bodies are
elements elements of our alimentation, alimentation, they they are are not not
aliments. Aliments have have a (apart from traditional traditional form form and
and are are borrowed borrowed (apart from a a few minerals) mineraIs) from the
animal or vegetable kingdoms; the three three are merely constituents of aliments
aliments (along elements listed listed are elements with a few indigestible with a
few indigestible substances such such as as cellulose). The presence of of cell
ulose besides besides providing bulk has been been proved cellulose after after
exhaustive research research to ta be be indispensable indispensable in in the the
accomplishment complishment of phenomena. of digestive phenomena. An aliment
contains, or Complete aliment that that contains, or is Complete aliment aliment -
An reputed to contain, alimentary substances in the containn the various alimentary
right only practically complete right proportions. proportions. Milk Milk is is the
the only food (as far as babies are concerned) and even it is deficient in Vitamin
C. Some of the &onomy aliments - Sorne the substances we occasionEconomy aliments
ally describe in this way have, like Iike cocoa and chocolate, real tea, coffee,
act food value; others, such food value; such as as tea, coffee, coca-cola, only
act through the nervous excitation excitation they provoke. It is arguable whether
or not the ingestion of these these substances can increase the energy output
stances output ofa diet, but they can, appease, the sensaunder certain conditions,
conditions, calm or falsely appease, tion of hunger and and impart a feeling of
well-being. Nuhitive Nutritive value of certain elements - Bearing in in mind the
various elements in the the normal importance normal diet importance of the various
elements in of the (albumins, carbohydrates, fats, etc.) an aliment will be more
nourishing the more fatty fa Ity bod ies it contains, for these are nourishing the
bodies richest, riches t, volume for volume, in calories. calories. The mutual mu
tuaI substitution tables tables of various groups of aliments (see below) give
sorne some indication of the relative values of certain aliments of vegetable
origin. We Wc have of of animal and vegetable Randoin, MM. Legallic, Causerets and
to thank Mme. Lucie Randoin, Duch€ne for them. G. Duchêoe G. as basic Meat, milk,
milk, butter and and bread have have been Meat, been taken taken as elements in in
these The compilers compilers have these substitution substitution tables. tables.
The clements

6. Beverages: Beverages: 6. (a) (b) (c) (c) (d)

water fruit juices juices alcoholic drinks alcoholic aromatic aromatic drinks.

aliments than to tive tive to to the the weight weight of aliments to their their
volume. volume. The the total diet (beverages excluded) ranges weight of the total
diet rauges from weight g. for a little 1500 1800 g. 1500 to to 1800 for a a man,
man, a Iittle less less for for a a woman; the
weight becomes excessive excessive above above 2500 g.

stomach is more sensiWeight aliments - Normally Weigbt of ofaUments NormaUy the

stomach

must not The The average weight weight of a a meal meal must not exceed 800 800 to
1000 g. for a man and 600 to 800 g. for a woman. Generally Generally a feeling of
saliety satiety occurs occurs before these these limits are reached. reached.

MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF ANIMAL FOODS MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION FOODS

replaced as as a a source 100 can be source of 100 G. G. MEAT (net weight) wcight)
can be replaced protein by: g. olfal 100 g. offal or variety meats 100 g. fish (net
weight) 2| 2-t eggs t litre milk or the equivalent in milk derivatives (see table I
below)

OF DAIRY MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION DAIRY FOODS MUTUAL S(]BSTITUTION OF

replaced by: MILK can be replaced ! * LITRE MILK
120 g. unsweetened concentrated milk 80 g. sweetened concentrated milk 30 g.
powdered milk 125 g. curdled milk (cream cheese) yoghurt (about 250 g.) 2 small
cartons yoghurl 4 petits petjf5 .slli.sses (about 120 g.) szisses (about I demisel
1 demi-sel (about 60 g.) 40-50 Camembert, fermented soft cheese (Brie, Camembert,
40-50 g. fermented etc.) Coulommier s, Livarot, Munster, etc.) Coulommiers,
(Gruyire, Dwch Dutch cheese, g. fermented hard cheeses (Gruyère, 30-40 g. 30--40
etc.) S aint - P aulin, Cantal, etc.) Saint-Paulin, g. Gruyère Gruyire cream cream
cheese 60 g. g. goat goat cheese 25 g.

(closely quantities of then calculated the aliments (c1osely of other other

aliments then caJculated the quantities given w!::ight a given weight related in
nutritive value) required to replace a of each each of these basic elements. they
have naturally taken In establishing these quantities, they into account in each
group are aceount that the aliments mentioned in precisely the not of precisely
same composition composition andmay and'may ev even differ en ditfer the same
points. We profoundly on see the We can can nevertheless see on certain points.
advantage of comparing which, practically speakadvantage comparing aliments which,
ing, are interchangeable. If the is sufficiently alimentation is jng, are the
alimentation from their their different varied the can only only benellt benefit
from varied the organism can nutritional values. nutritional variable than than the
is more variable Volume of aliments alimenb - Nothing is stomach; although elastic
organ organ the the stomach; capacity capacity of of that that elastic 1200 cm.)
cm.3 is the recognised average capacity, this may fall to 600 cm] cm.3 according to
the individual. cm.3 or rise to 2000 cm.) We must not forget that iogested ingested
liquids leave the stomach very rapidly rapidly and only minimally minimally into
into calculations calculations very and enter enter only involving the volume of
aliments. to draw draw up a alimmts Classification of the tbe aliments - Any
attempt to guiding principles for for sensible eating must must be be based set set
of guiding a simple classification of the aliments. upon quite a little to choose
between the varÎous various classifications There is liule nutritionists, but like
Mme. Randoin we prefer suggested by nutritîonists, the following: l. Milk and its
derivatives (with the exception exception of butter). 1. 2. Various meats and and
fish, fish, eggs. 2. 3. Fatty substances. 3. (flour, bread, rice, dried dried
vege4. Starchy Starchy foods bread, noodles, noodles, rice, 4. foods (flour, and
sweetened fruit, sugar, tables, potatoes) and sweetened foods (dried fruit, sugar,
jam, chocolate, etc.). vegetables and fruit: 5. bles and 5. Fresh vegeta (a) eaten
(cruditis) (a) eaten raw ruur (crudités) (b) eaten cooked.

OF FARINACEOUS MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION FARINACEOUS FOODS FOODS

a source can be 100 G. BREAD can be replaced as a G. BREAD 70 g. cereal flour

of calories by:

70 g. rusks or dry sponge fingers g. biscuits 50 g. g. gingerbread 80 g. 70 g.

porridge porridge oats 70 g. pasta or noodles g. rice 70 g. g. dried vegetables
(haricot beans, lentils, 75 g. lenlils, peas, etc.) g. potatoes (gross weight) 350
g. g. chestnuts chestnuts (gross weight) 150 g. prunes, etc.) g. dried fruit
(dates, figs, prunes, 90 g.

MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF FATTY SUBSTITUTION OF MUTUAL SUBSTANCES

a source of lipids lipids by: as a G. BUTTER BUTTER can can be replaced as 100 G.
g. animal fat fat, etc.) fat (lard, mutton fat, 100 g. g. oil 85 g. g. margarine
100 g. 120 g. unsmoked bacon foods is of alimenb= consistency of foods Consistmcy
of the aliments Consisteocy - The consistency far greater importance (as regards
their digestion) than their volume or a rule, rule, whatever whatever their their
initial initial conor weight. weight. As volume As a to reach reach the stomach
reduced reduced to to a aliments ought to the stomach sistency, alîment5 t3 13
ALIMENTATION ALIMENTATION
(or pap) pap) tbrough rulp (or through mastication mastication and (for the and
insalivation insalivation (for the mlp gastric musculature musculature is is too
too feeble feeble in in tbe the human human species species to to 6astric break
down down large large fragments; fragments; the the latter latter lie lie too too
long long in in the the break stomach and and cao can cause cause dyspepsia).
dyspepsia). The The bad bad habit habit of of not not stomach properly, of chewing
food food properly, of swallowing swallowing too (tachyquickly (tachytoo quickly
chewiog phagra) has has the possible effects. the worst worst possible effects.
pbagia) X-ray examination examination reveals, reveals, for for example, example,
that that a a hardhardX-ray boiled egg, egg, considered considered to to he be one
of the the most one of most indigestible indigestible of of boiled just as foods,
leaves leaves the the stomach stomach just quickly as as quickly as a a soft-boiled
soft-boiled egg egg foods, grated finely (or chewed if it it is is grated finely
(or chewed very very thoroughly) give it thoroughly) to to give it a a if similar
consistency. consistency. similar We must must Dot not conclude conclude from from
this this that that the the Ideal ideal way way of of We ingesting food food is is
in in the the fform pur6e; on of a a purée; on the the contrary, contrary,
ingesting onn of pur6ed foods foods are last resort, are a a last resort, to to
have have recourse recourse to to in in cases cases of of puréed infection of the
mouth mouth and of the and teeth, teeth, or or as as a a temporary temporary
measure measure infection in some some forms forms of of dyspepsia, dyspepsia, or
or in in the the early early stages stages of of conconin valescence. The The
importance importance ofmasticatîon, of mastication, insalivation, insalivation,
and and valescence. digestion cannot cannot he be over over emphasised; emphasised;
a a diet diet consîsling consisting solely solely digestion pur6ed foods of puréed
foods would would not not stimulate stimulate the the stomach stomach muscles
muscles of sufficiently and gastric atony; and could could ca cause atony; it it
could could also also lead lead slIfficiently use gastric to dental dental caries
caries owing owing to to the the enforced idleness imposed enforced idleness
imposed on on to the teeth. teeth. So So one one must must encourage encourage the
the culinary culinary habit habit of of the (fried croûtons, adding some some hard
hard substances substances (fried cro0tons, for for example) example) adding
presented in pur6ed fonn. to foods foods presented in puréed form. to Tenperature
of of the the aliments·alimenb- Hot Hot foods foods are are morestimulatmore
stimulatTemperabue ing than than cold cold and and man man always always looks
looks for for such such stimulation stimulation in in lng his food, food, for for
unlike unlike other other animal species he he is animal species is not not content
content his simply to to have have his his hunger hunger appeased. appeased. simply
Only extreme extreme lemperatures temperatures are are harmful harmful to to tbe
the organism. Only If food food is is too too hot hot it it can can cause cause
burns burns to to the the mou mouth, the If th, the tongue, and and the the
œsophagus, esophagus, especially especially when when hot Iiquids liquids are
longue, gulped down. down. The The latter latter can can also also cause cause
irritation to the irritation to gulped stomach which may even gastritis. even
develop develop into stomach which may into gastritis. Foods cold induce induce
conslriction constriction of of the Foods which which are are too too cold
capillary blood of the the stomach, stomach, causing causing subsequent subsequent
capillary blood vessels vessels of dilatation. The side side effects effects are
are even even worse dilatation. The worse than than those produced foods which are
too too hot. produced by by foods which are hot. The nature consistency of of the
aliments have a strong The nature and and consistency the aliments have a bearing
on how can, if bearing on how their their temperature temperature is is withstood;
withstood; one can, if need 60"C. (140'F.); need be, be, sip sip broth broth or or
coffee coffee at at 60~C. (140~ F.); porridge porridge taken at al the the same
same temperature temperature would would have have serious serious effects.
effects. The particular particular moment moment at at which wbich these these
foods foods are are quickly quickly swalswallowed lowed is is also also
significant; significant; an an iced îced substance substance taken taken on on an
empty empty stomach storoacb can can be be harmful, harmful, whereas whereas the
the effect effect of of an ice cream cream taken taken immediately immediately
after after a a meal meal and and received received by by an already already full
full stomach stomach would wou!d not not be be nearly nearly so so serious.
serious. Too Too swift swift a a transition transition from from hot hot to to
cold, cold, for for example, example, a a hot hot food food followed followed
immediately immediately by by an an iced iced drink, drînk, is is extremely
extreme1y harmful harrnful to to the the enamel enamel of of the the teeth. teeth.
Soups in the the plate, plate, so so they they are are usually usually Soups
rapidly rapidly become become cold cold in served served very very hot; hot; it it
is is hardly hardly possible possible to to drink drink a a clear clear soup soup
(140"F.) heated heated above above 60"C. 60°C. (140°F.) - even even above above
58"C. 58°C. (136'F.). (l36°F.). c Most Most people people wait wait until until it
it cools cools to to 37" 37° to to 45"C 45 C (99'to (99° to 103'F.) 103°F.) to to
taste laste the the flavour. flavour. Thick porridges, vegetable vegetable pur6es
purees must must not not be be Thick soups, soups, porridges, drunk d runk above
above 38" 38° to to 42"C. 42 C. (100" (100° to to 107'F.). 107°F.). Roast Roast
meat meat is is usually usually served served between between 40o 40° and and 45"C.
45°C. (104' (104° and and ll3"F). I13 e F). Its Its temperature temperature must
must not not fall fall below below 40"C. 40°C. (104'F.) fa t begins begins to to
congeal congeal (this (this is is especially especially (104°F.) otherwise
otherwise the the fat true of roast roast mutton). mutton). This This is is why why
plates plates are are heated heated (particu(particutrue of larly larly meat meat
plates). plates). Hot Hot bread bread of of 38"C. 38 C. (100"F.) (100°F.) and and
above above is is much much more more indigestible indigestible than than cold cold
bread; bread; this Ihis depends depends less less on on the the temperature
temperature itself itself than than on on the the physical physical condition
condition of of the the crumb. crumb. It Il is is a a widespread widespread belief,
belief, however, however, that that slow slow digestion digestion of of cold cold
foods foods is 1S beneficial. beneficiaJ. Ninon Ninon de de Lenclos Lenclos
attributes attributes his his sprightly cold food. food. sprightly old old age age
to to having having all ail his his life lire eaten ea ten cold Psychologicd
PsychologicaJ effects effects of of the the aliments aliments - For For its its
curiosity curiosity
Q Q

value, here, here, according according to to a a learned learned Swedish Swedish

doctor, doctor, are are the the value. produced on effects produced on man man by
by the the different different foods foods he he eats: eats: effects (especially
roast By eating eating beef roast beef) beef (especially beef) for for months
months on on end, end, -- By one is is certain certain to acquire self-confidence
to acquire self-confidence and and audacity audacity ... ... one Mutton makes makes
one melancholy ... one melancholy ... -- Mutton pessimistic. Could Pork makes makes
one one pessimistic. it be pork Could il be that that pork -- Pork butchers only
see see the the black black side side of of things? things? bu tchers only Duck
ftesh flesh makes makes man man bad-tcmpered bad-tempered .. . . .. -- Duck For wit
wit and and beauty beauty eggs eggs are are supreme supreme .. . . .. -- For
Walnuts, hazelnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, almonds, dried dried figs figs develop
develop the the -- Walnuts, mind. .. mind ... Tomatoes, oranges oranges and and
lemons lemons considerably considerably improve improve -- Tomatoes, quality of the
quality the voiee voice ... ... of the the Finally, doughy doughy English-type
English-type bread bread slows slows the the mental mental -- Finally, processes;
light-textured light-textured brcad bread assures assures a a buoyant buoyant
morale. morale. processes; Rye bread and and buckwheat buckwheatpancake one
melancholy melancholy.... .. Rye pançake make one

ALIMENTATION Alimentation varies varies according according to to age, age,

ALIMENTATION - Alimentation profession, and climate, profession, and state state of
health. of health. climate, Alimentation must provide (with must be be adequate.
(with a adequate. Il It must must provide Alimentation small excess) excess) the
(in the the wherewithal wherewithal for growth (in young for growth the young small
repair and and upkeep of ofthe tissues and and organs, organs, person), for the
repai! the tissues and for the the expenditure of ofenergy. and energy. To
determine the the energy energy value value of an an aliment aliment or or diet,
diet, wc we To employ as a a measure the calorie (q.v.), going going on the
principle employas that ail all forms of energy energy can can be transfonned
transformed into heat. that methods are are used to determine tbe used to the
requirements Various methods of the the human body. body. One One way is is by by
calculating calculating the the average of from global alimentation of the global
population. Anotber of a a population. Another from the method (aliments and is by
by analysing the the ingesta ingesta (aliments and oxygen method is consumed), and
the excreta excreta (excretions, secretions, secretions, carbonic carbonic
cODsumed), quantity of exhaled) and and the quantity ofheat discharged. acid
exhaled) heat discharged. Modern dieticians a{"e are agreed agreed that the normal
normal alimentation alimentation Modern for (65 kg. of average weight (65 or 143
lb.) in in repose for an an adult of kg. or or engaged in in only only Iight light
duties duties must or must correspond to to 2350 calorieg that approximately 36
calories for every kg. 36 calories tbat is is approximately for every calories, of
weight (2.2lb.). a much higher calorie intake (2·2 lb.). Previously Previously a
was considered consid ered necessary. We usually allow that: I 4'44 calories 1 g.
albuminoids albuminoids gives out 4·44 I 4'23 calories 1 g. g. carbohydrates
carbohydrates gives out 4·23 I 9.40 calories g. fat fat gives gives out 9-40 1 g.
The figures of of the the physiologist physiologist M. M. Atwater Atwater are are
slightly lower lower because because he incorporated incorporated losses losses and
waste products products in them. tbem. His His table reads as follows: Albuminoids
3'68 Albuminoids 3·68 calories per g. Carbohydrates 3'00 Carbohydrates 3·00
calories per g. Fats 8'65 8·65 calories per g. He He also distinguished
distingulshed between between substances substances of of animal animal origin
(best (best utilised) utilised) and substances of of vegetable vegetable origin. To
obtain obtaill 100 100 calories one one must consume, consume, according according
to to him: him: Animal 23.50 Animal proteins proteins 23· 50 g. g. Vegetable 28'19
Vegetable proteins proteins 28·19 g. Amyloide 25.00 Amyloide substances substances
25·00 g. Animal ll.18 Animal fats fats 11·18 g. g. Vegetable ll'97 Vegetable fats
fats 11·97 s. g. We We must must not not lose lose sight of of the the fact fact
that that these these figures figures are merely merely averages, averages, and and
while while of of great great interest interest in in alimentary alimentary studies
studies of of collectivities collectivitîes they they lose lose their their
precision precision when when reduced of individuals. indivîduals. reduced to to
the the level level of The The food food requirements requirements of of the the
child child are are (in (În proportion proportion to to its its weight) weight)
slightly slightly higher higher than than those those of of an an adult adult since
since it it must must satisfy satisfy its ifS growing growing needs. needs. Those
Those of of the the aged aged are are less less because of the reduced reduced
expenditure expenditure ofenergy. ofenergy. Food Food requirerequirebccause ofthe
ments ments increase increase with with the the lowering lowering of of exterior
exterior temperatures temperatures and and with with the the work work done. done.
The The daily daily diet diet must must be be balanced.It balanced. It must must
contain contain a a miniminimum mum amount amount of of albuminoids albuminoids and
and fats, fats, and and enough enough carbocarbo-

oc

l4 14
ALLIGATOR ALLIGATOR
hydrates hydrates to to ensure ensure that that the the two two preceding preceding
elements are
thoroughly thoroughly utilised. utilised. The normal normal diet must must
comprise: comprise: 80 80 g. albuminoids albuminoids 70 70 g. fats fats 350 350 g.
g. carbohydrates carbohydrates The The proportion proportion of of fats fats in in
an an infant's diet diet must be higher in carbohydrates. relation to to
carbohydrates. relation The The daily dai/y diet must must be be varied. The The
impossibility of of measurmeasurthe imponderables imponderables of of alimentation
alimentation (very minute minute mineral mineraI ing the substances
"UiU:>I,<lll\A<O and and vitamins) vitamins) obliges obliges us us to to procure
procure our our alimentary alimentary elements from a a wide variety of nutrients
(something, in elements instinctively). fact, that man has always done
instinctively). It It is is probable probable that the disorders disorders arising
from from following too of uniform a diet are caused by the the absence or
deficiency of uniform these imponderables. imIPOJr1df:ralbles. The daily diet diel
must be be pleasant. Although it is possible possible to (as feed like like animals
animaIs simply sim ply upon upon what what nature nature provides pro vides (as
feed tried to to indo) man certain sects sects do) man has has always tried members
of certain of his food by adding palatable condicrease the savouriness savouriness
of crease art, which which is The culinary culinary art, ments and and by by
applying heat. The applying heat. ments effect of adding derived from these two
operations, has the effect nourishof taking nourishto the psychological need and
satisfaction oftaking ment, a gustative, olfactory satisfaction, and in so doing
has of the the human development of exerted an influence on the development on the
an influence exerted
species.

water, with with an extremely strong pungent pungent odour odour reminiscent
reminiscent It is conof of urine. urine. Its Its fumes can be asphyxiating.
asphyxiating. It is used used in in concarmines. . fectionery fectionery as as a
solvent for for cochineal carmines.
vegetable origin of vegetable ALKALOIDS. ALKALOIDS. lrcnroinss ALCALOÏDES -
Substances of even when on the effect on that that have a a powerful powerful
effect the organism, even

(The stimulants in in coffee, coffee, absorbed absorbed in in minute quantities.

quantities. (The tea and and chocolate are are alkaloids.) alkaloids.)

red cordial, cordial, old-fashioned red ALKERMES. ALKERMES. lrrnnuis ALKERMÈS An

old-fashioned - An sweetened a sweetened distilling a by distilling once once very
very popular, produced by Its cloves. Its leaf and and cloyes. nutmeg, cinnamon,
bay infusion infusion of nutmeg, bay leaf
name. hence its name. colour is derived from kermes, hence

plant has has a a This plant (Jack-by-the.hedge). ALLIAIRE ALLIAIRE ALLARH ALLARIA
(Jack-by-the-bedge). - This as a a condiused as condibe used flavour, and can be
very pronounced garlic flavour, ment for salads.
a classic white given to a classic white SAUCE - The name given ALLEMANDE SAUCE
ALLEMANDE (q.v.). yolks and cream to toaveloutd sauce made by adding egg yolks a
velouté (q.v.). (one for this this sauce sauce (one of the the recipe for A more
modern version of A given in in the is given culinary repertoire) is the French
culinary of the best best in the devoted to sauces. section devoted is not not of
of German German origin. sauce is name, this this sauce Despite its its name,
Despite of its its light because of is so so called called because it is to Carême
Car€me it According to from espagnole espagnole sauce, sauce, which it from
distinguish it and to colour, and to distinguish colom, in have originated (The
latter to have originated in not seem seem to latter does does not dark. (The is
dark. is Spain, either.) is an an enormous enonnous there is In the culinary
repertoire, there the French culinary countries, from other other cotmtries,
borrowed from designations borrowed number of of designations number origin. French
origin. of entirely entirely French dishes of most of of them them describing
dishes most Smtce as Sauce allemande as refer to the allemande also refer authors
also to the Modem authors Modern (see SAUCE). parisienne (see SAUCE). parisienne
recipe for for the recipe by giving the Car€me begins by Car6me's recipe Carême's -
Carême preparation (soo SAUCE), then de5;cnbes describes the prepara SAUCE), then
VeloutC sauce sauce (see Velouté tion as follows: follows: of allemande allemande
sauce sauce as of an equal Add an into a a saucepan. saucepan. Add 'Pour half the
velouté velouti into half the 'Pour good chicken has been quantity of to which
which has consomm6, to of good chicken consommé, (stalks and peel), and much salt
salt and as as much and peel), mushrooms (stalks added a a few mushrooms added
point of knife. ofa held on on the the point as can can be be held as a knife. a
wood wooden heat and and stir stir with with a a brisk brisk heat Place the the
sauce sauce over over a Place en from the it away away from the boil. Draw Draw it
to the the boil. spoon until until it it cornes comes to about an an hour. hour.
Skim simmer for for about leave to to simmer flame, coyer, cover, and and leave
Skim the stirring with with the flame, stirring high flame, a high and replace
replace on on a off the fat fat and off the prevent it the bottom bottom of of the
it sticking sticking to to the to prevent wooden spoon spoon to wooden the
perfectly cooked, sauce should should coat coat the cooked, the pan. When the sauce
When perfectly pan. it quite thickly; and when when poured, it thickly; and surface
of a spoon quite of a surface redcurrant jelly. as redcurrant same consistency
consistency as should be be of of the same should prepare a a liaison heat and and
prepare from the the heat saucepan from Remove the the saucepan Remove (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) yolks mixed 2 tablespoons mixed with with 2 tablespoons
(3 4 egg using 4 egg yolks using piece of a piece of best butter adding a best
butter a sieve, sieve, adding cream. Pass Pass this this through through a cream.
liaison, Pour the the liaison, into small an egg, cut cut into small pieces. Pour
of an the the size size of the with the carefully with velouti, stirring carefuJly
little by little, into the the velouté, little by !iUle, in smoothly. it is is
blended in smoothly. make sure that it sure that wooden spoon spoon to to make
wooden on aa perfectly incorporated, replace the the sauce sauce on incorporated,
replace is ail When When it it is all perfectly heat and and continue continue
stirring. moderate moderate heat remove from the the rise, rem start to to rise,
soon as as a a fewbubbles few bubbles start As ove from As soon grated nutmeg held
on on the the as can can be be held nutmeg as and add add as as much much grated
heat and heat pass through through aasieve.' sieve.' point of well blended,
blended, pass of a a knife. knife. When When weil point

denigrating culinary either denigrating aHmentation - Without either Natural

alimentationgastronomic traditions, qualities or traditions, dieticians qualities
betraying gastronomic or betraying of composition of in the the composition foods
in encourage us to natural foods encourage us to use use natural menus. food
products This means that we ought not to to consume food that have have been been
subjected to to any form of chemical adulteration. Mme. Randoin defined the problem
perfectly when she business upon WTote: is a a serious serious business ourselves
is wrote: 'Nourishing ourselves It is is incumbent, which depends. It and bad, bad,
depends. which much, much, good and we make make or or therefore, upon realise that
that we one of us us to to realise upon each each one of the choice of or
injudicious injudicious choice health by a judicious or break our health elements
that constitute our daily diet.' different, and and The fact remains that every
individual case case is different, go on, are general lines to that although we on,
there there are a few general to go we have a no truly standard régimes r6gimes in
in alimentation. alimentation. products wherever the Besides wherever possible, the
Besides using natural products using natural best of to follow follow the the
precepts of quantity, of one can can do do is is to best one the preparation, and
of cooking cooking methods laid down by the and of dieticians. into Forced feeding-
The introduction directly into of aliments aliments directly introduction of the
"lU'l1AQ,,",lI. stomach. Artificia.l made to to can be be made substances can
feedlng Alimentary substances Artificial feeding - Alimentary gastric penetrate the
gastric than the penetrate the other than by channels channels other the organism
by one. medical domain. domain. to the the medical are confined confined to one.
These These procedures are

(Aliments) -ALKALESCENTS (Food). ALCAUNISANTS ALcALINISANTS (Aliments) ALKALESCENTS

(Food). (lime, soda, Foods that cess of soda, elements (lime, an ex excess of basic
basic elements that contain contain an potassium, m'lgrleslurn). magnesium). Milk
and blood are are the only alkalescents of animal origin. Milk and On are origin
are most foods of vegetable origin the other other hand, hand, most On the products
alkalescents cereal products of cereals, cereal the exception exception of
alkalescents with with the and consume the the which we we consume vegetables of of
which a number number of of vegetables and a flowers (asparagus, Brussels Brussels
sprouts). sprouts). buds (asparagus, flowers (artichoke) or or buds Ali are
redcurrants, etc., etc., are lemons, redcurrants, such as as lemons, All acid-
tasting acid-tasting fruit such alkalescents. alkalescents. beetroot, carrots,
beetroot, turnips, carrots, artichokes, turnips, Celery, Jerusalem Jerusalem
artichokes, lettuce, tomatoes, endive, lettuce, tomatoes, dandelions, endive,
cucumber, cabbage, cabbage, dandelions, spinach, very strong lemons are are very
strong and lemons oranges, tangerines tangerines and spinach, oranges,
alkalescents; potatoes and milk, potatoes cauliflower, less less and cauliflower,
fruits, milk, alkalescents; other other fruits, so. so.
---.. 1. . - -

VOLATILE. ALCALI - Commonly ALKALI known ALcALI VOLATIL voLArILCommonly known

ALKALMLATILE. as liquid, lighter lighter than than It is a colourless is a
colourless liquid, as liquid liquid ammonia. ammonia. It
15 t5

American crocodile crocodile commonly commonly ALLIGATOR -- A A species species of

of American ALLIGATOR called called cayman. gastronomic part of of the
thegastronomic has already already bec become The alligator has The orne aa part
the flesh eaten eaten by by the rather too musky flesh Not onJy is its its rather
too musky world. world. Not only is alligator are are occasionally occasionally it,
but but slices slices of of alligator natives natives who who capture capture it,
served in London London and and Paris. Paris. served in feet or flippers, parts of
the reptile reptile are are the thefeet or fljppers, most valued valued parts of
the The most The less aquatic than most mostcrococrocoaquatic than although Jess
since since the the alligator, alligator, aJthough I'amiriare prepared
dl'amériThese flippers flippersare diles, lives in in water. water. These diles,
also also lives TURTLE.) manner. (See TURTLE.) caine, or in in any any similar
similar manner. d /'indienne I'indienne or caine, à
ALLSPICE ALLSPICE
ALLSPICE. ALLSPICE. rourE TOUTE 6prcs ÉPICE - Common Corn mon name for the myrtle
seed seed (Jamaica (Jarnaica pepper) pepper) and and for for cultivated cultivated
nigella nigella (fennel (fennel
flower). f1ower). strips, cut them (l inch) wide, and bake them into pieces pieces
2 to 3 cm. (1

ALLUMBTTES ALLUMETTES - Strips of of puff puff pastry variously variously garnished

and baked baked in in the the oven. oyen. Little cakes made of of puff puff pastry
and and filled or garnished garnished with with various various mixtures mixtures
are also called ca lIed allumettes. allumettes. Allumettes a strip of puff
Allumettes (hot (hot hors-d'auvre) hors-d'œuvre) - Roll out a pastry pastry to a a
thickness thickness of of ] t cm. (+ (t inch) and about about 7 to 8 cm. (3 (3
inches) inches) wide. wide. Cover Co ver the the surface with f'rsft Fish
forcemeat, forcemeat, or any any other other suggested suggested mixture mixture
(see (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEA TS or STUFFINGS). STUFFINGS). Cut into rectangles,
rectangles, place place on a baking baking tray, tray, and bake bake in in the the
oven oyen at 200'C. 200°C. (400"F., (400°F., Gas Mark 6) for about about 15 15
minutes. minutes. Allumettes Allumettes I à la la perigourdine périgourdine - Coat
Coat the puff puff pastry pastry with a puree of chicken chicken livers livers (see
(see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or STUFFSTUFFpurée of INGS) INGS) mixed mixed with with
finely finely chopped chopped truffies. truffles. Bake Bake in in the oven. oyen.
Allumettes Allumettes ià la la reine reine - Coat Coat the the puff puff pastry
pastry with with a a very very fine fine mixture mixture of of minced minced breast
breast of of chicken and truffies, truffles, blended blended with with thick thick
Veloutd Velouté sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bake Bake in in the the oven.
oyen. Allumettes Allumettes I à la la toscane toscane - Sprinkle Sprinkle the the
sheet of of puff puff pastry pastry with with grated grated Parmesan. Parmesan. Cut
Cut into into strips strips and and bake bake in in the the oven. oyen. Ox Ox
palate palate allumettes. allumettes. ALLT,JMETTES ALLUMETTES DE DE pALArs PALAIS
DE DE BGUF BŒUF 'Remove 'Remove the the skin skin from from 2 2 ox palates palates
previously previously cooked cooked in water. matchsticks and Cut into into strips
strips the the size size of ofmatchsticks and marinate marinate in in water. Cut
lemon or vinegar vinegar seasoned seasoned with a a little little salt, salt,
sprigs of lemon juice juice or parsley, parsley, and and whole whole spring spring
onions. onions. When When they they are are thoroughly thoroughly macerated
macerated drain drain them, them, and and dip dip them them in in a batter batter
made made as as follows: follows: 'Place 'Place 2 2 good good handfuls handfuls of
of flour, f1our, I 1 tablespoon tablespoon fine fine oil, oil, and ground salt,
salt, into into a a basin. basin. Dilute Dilute this this gradugraduand a a little
little finely finely ground ally ally with with beer beer until until the the
batter batter reaches reaches the the consistency consistency of thick thick cream.
cream. Dip Dip the the palate palate strips strips into into it it and and fry fry
until until golden brown. Serve Serve as as hot hot as as possible.' possible.' (La
(La Cuisine Cuisine bourbourgolden brown. geoise,1769, Paris) geoise, 1769, Paris)

(400'F., Gas Mark 6) for 12 minutes. in the oven oyen at 200'C. 200°C. (400°F.,
ALMOND. of a stone fruit, particularly of ALMOND. AMANDE AMANDE - Kernel of

the almond tree. are two varieties, sweet almond and tree. There are and bitter
almond. almond. They come mostly from from North Africa, Africa, Provence, Italy
and from California, U.S.A. ltaly and Languedoc, and More than half their weight is
oil. There are two varieties of this; one is is used used principally in perfumery,
perfumery, the other in pharmaceutics, in the manufacture manufacture of soothing
emulsions. The The almond tree tree is mentioned in Genesis, and almonds were among
the fruit offered to Joseph (see ALMOND, Country almond). almond).
-

Almond

Aboukir almonds almonds (confectionery). (confectionery). nrrlNnEs AMANDES

D'ABoUKIR D'ABOUKIR Aboukir Petits fours, fours, made made of kirsch-flavoured,
kirsch-flavoured, green-coloured Petits almond paste, paste, shaped in in the the
form of of an almond, almond, and stuffed stuffed almond almond. Aboukirs Aboukirs
are coated coated with gum, or with a a blanched blanched almond. with iced with
with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to hard hard crack crack stage (see (see SUGAR).
SUGAR). iced Almond and and puff puff pastry pastry gffteau. gâteau. cArntu GÂTEAU
rEUlLrerE FEUILLETÉ lux AUX Almond This gdteau gâteau is is known known under under
the the name name of of Pithiviers Pithiviers AMANDES - This AMANDES(q.v.). (q.v.).
Almond butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'AMANDEs D'AMANDES - Pound Pound 150 150 g.
Almond (5 (5 oz.,l oz., 1cup) cup) freshly freshly blanched blanched almonds
almonds in in a a mortar mortar until until they they are reduced reduced to to a a
paste, paste, adding adding a a few few drops drops of of cold water water to to
are prevent them them from from turning tuming into into oil. oil. Pound Pound in
in 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., prevent cup) fresh fresh butter. butter. Pass Pass
through through a a very very fine fine sieve. sieve. I1 cup) This butter butter is
is used used for for flavouring flavouring certain certain sauces sauces and and
cream cream This soups; it it is is also also used used in in the the preparation
preparation of of cold cold hors d'euvre. d'œuvre. soups; PAINS ANGLlrs ANGLAIS -
Small Small dry dry cookies cookies prepreAlmond cuokies. cookies. rAINS Almond
pared in in the the following following manner. manner. pared Ingredients. 225 225
g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., 2 2 cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 225 g. g.
Ingredients. (8 oz., oz., 2 2 cups) cups) ground ground almonds, almonds, 225 225
g. g. (8 (8 oz., I 1 cup) cup) castor castor (8 (fine) (fine) sugar, sugar, 100 100
g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., I t cup) cup) butter, butter, 4 4 eggs, eggs, halfa half a
liqueur liqueur of rum. rum. glass of glass Method. Sieve Sieve the the flour flour
onto onto the the table. table. Make Make a a well weil in in the the Method.
almonds, the the sugar sugar and and the the well-softened well-softened centre and
and add add the the almonds, centre butter. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into
these these ingredients ingredients and and pour pour in in the the butter. rum. To
To prevent prevent burning, burning, mix mix the the paste paste without without
kneading kneading it it rum. too firm, firm, add add an an egg egg yolk). yolk).
(if too (if into long long sausages sa usages on on the the lightly lightly floured
floured Roll the the paste paste into Roll table. Cut Cut them them into into small
small pieces pieces and and roll roll these these into into balls. balls. table.
out on on buttered buttered trays trays (use (use two). two). Coat Coat each each
Space the the balls balls out Space bail twioe twiee with with beaten beaten egg
egg and and score score with with the the blade blade of of a a wet wet ball knife.
Bake Bake for for 20 20 minutes minutes in in a a slow slow oven. oyen. knife.
Almond cookies cookies Qemon-flavoured). (lemon-flavoured). pArNS PAINS ANcLArs
ANGLAIS AU AU Almond CITRON - Pound Pound 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., l| 1t cups)
cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds cIrRoN finely with with 225 225 g. g. (8 (8
oz., oz., I 1 cup) cup) castor castor (fine) (fine) sugar sugar and 2 2 finely
whole eggs. eggs. whole
16 l6

Allumettes (cakes) (cakes) Allumettes

Allumettes (cakes) (cakes) - These These sweet sweet pastry pastry cakes cakes are
are said said to to Allumettes have century ago ago by by a a Swiss Swiss pastry-
cook pastry-cook who who have been been created created a a century

lived lived in in Dinard Dinard (Ille-et-Vilaine). (Ille-et-Vilaine). M. M. Lacam,

Lacam, who who wrote wrote a a history history of ofpastry-making, pastry-making,
describes describes the the invention invention as as follows: follows: 'One 'One
day day Planta, Planta, the the above-mentioned above-mentioned pastry-cook,
pastry-cook, had had some and did did not not know know what what to to do do with
with it. it. sorne icing icing left left over over and added a a pinch pinch of
offlour flour to to it it in in order order to to Having softened softened it, it,
he he added Having prevent prevent the the sugar sugar from from running running in
in the the heat heat ofthe of the oven, oyen, and and puffpastry. spread it iton
ona a sheet sheetof ofpuff pastry. This This he he cut cutinto into little little
sticks sticks spread and baked baked in in the the oven,' oven.' and Thus
allumettes, allumettes, n a sort sort of ofdry drypetit petitfour four which which
are are now now so so Thus popular, popular, were were invented. invented. Method.
Roll Roll out out some sorne puff puff pastry pastry to to the the thickness
thickness of of Method. 4 4 mm. mm. (* (t inch) inch) and and cut cut it it into
into strips strips 8 8 cm. cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) wide. wide. of Royal Royal
icing icing (see (see ICING) ICING) on on these these Spread a a thin thin layer
layer of Spread
ALMOND ALMOND
Sieve Sieve 225 225 g. (8 oz., OZ., 2 2 cups) flour onto onto the table. table.
Make Make a well weil in the centre centre and place place the pounded mixture
mixture in it. il. Add 175 g. (6 I lemon lemon (or (6 oz., OZ., * i cup) butter and
and the the grated grated rind rind of 1 orange). Knead well weil together. Divide
Sprinkle the Divide the the paste paste into into walnut-sized pieces. pieces.
Sprinkle table table lightly with with flour flour and and form form these these
into into little little cigars, cigars, pointed pointed at each end. Place them on
a buttered baking baking sheet, brush with beaten egg and score in the centre. Bake
Bake in a hot oven for 8 to to l0 JO minutes. min utes. Almond Almond cream.
creaOl. cnirun CRÈME D'AMANDES - Prepare Prepare ] ~ litre (scant pint" 2* cups)
crime (seant pînt, 2l'cups) crème pdtissiCre pâtissière in the usual manner, cool
it and add to it 250 g. (9 oz.,l] OZ., l-t cups) cups) freshly blanched almonds 250
g. almonds poundod pounded to to a a smooth smooth paste paste with with 250 g. (9
(9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) sugar sugar and 250 250 g. (9 oz., OZ.,
generous generous cup) butter. butter. This uime This cream cream is is used used
for for filling filling sweet sweet dishes. dishes. For For crème pdtissiire see
CREAMS, CREA MS, French postry pastry ueam. cream. pâtissière see Almond Almond
loaf. pAlN PAfN coMpLE'r COMPLET - A cake cake made of almond almond paste shaped
like like a loaf. 10af. Almond LAIT D'AMANDEs D'AMAl';1)E.S - The The codex codex
gives gives the Almood milk. milk. rlrr following followiog recipe recipe for
almond almond milk: milk: Ingredients. 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz., OZ., scant seant * !
cup) cup) blanched blanched sweet almonds, 50 cup) white 50 g. (2 oz., OZ., I i
cup) white sugar, I 1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant * t cup)
distilled water. Method. Method. Place the almonds, sugar sugar and water in a
marble mortar and pound to a very smooth smooth paste. Press Press through a fine
sieve. sievc. Alnond Almood nougat. nougat. NoucAT NOUGAT AUx AUX AMANDTs AMANDES -
Dry Dry 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 4l 4t cups) blanched, chopped almonds in the
the oven. oyen. Place Place them them in a copper bowl bowl in which which 400 g.
(14 oz.,l| oz., li cups) cups) sugar, flavoured ftavoured with wîth a a squeeze
squeeze of lemon juice, juice, has has been boiled to to a pale pale caramel. Stir
Stif this mixture with a spatula. While Whîle the the mixture mixture is is still
still hot, hot, pour pour it it into into variously variously shaped greased
moulds. moulds. Alternatively, the the nougat nougat may may be spread thinly
thinly on an oiled oîled marble slab and cut eut into different different shapes.
shapes. Nougat prepared in this way may be he shaped shapcd into bowls, baskets,
clogs c10gs and other other objects. objects. Almond Almood paste I. pAtE PÂTE
n',q,Ira.l,NDEs D'AMANDES - Crush Crush 450 g. g. (l (1 lb., 3 cups) blanched
almonds and place them in a mortar with the the selected selected flavouring
flavouring (vanilla (vanilla sugar sugar or or liqueur). liqueur). Cook 900 900 g.
(2 lb., 4 cups) cups) sugar sugar to to hard hard crack stage stage (see SUGAR).
SUGA R). Qlb.,4 Add Add this gradually to the the almonds, almonds, pounding
vigorously vigorously until well weil mixed. Almond 475 g. Almood paste paste II.
n. pArE PÂTE D'^luANDEs D'AMANDES - Ingredients. 475 (17 OZ., o2.,3| 3t cups) cups)
sweet almonds, 25 g. (1 (1 oz., OZ., 3 tablespoons) bitter (1 teaspoon) teaspoon)
gum arabic, arabic, 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., OZ., bitter almonds, almonds., 5 g. (l
scant seant cup) icing sugar, I 1 egg white, juie juice of I 1 lemon. Method.
Method. Pound Pound the almonds almonds with the the lemon lemon juioe juice and
pass pass through through a fine fine strainer. strainer. Put into a copper pan pan
with the icing icing sugar and egg egg white. Dry this this mixture mixture gently
over over heat, heat, stirring all ail the the time. Add the the gum arabic
dissolved dissolved in in a little water. To To be he perfect this this paste paste
must must not be be sticky. It Il is used used as an abaisse abaisse (q.v.) (q.v.)
in various various sweet dishes and petits petits fours. fours. Almond Almood
praline. rRALIN PRALIN Aux AUX AMANDnS AMANDES - Melt Melt 450 g. (l (l lb., lb., 2
cups) castor (fine) sugar slowly slowly in a copper pan. Cook it until until it
reaches reaches the the degree of of light caramel, 160'C. 160°C. (320"F.).
(320"F .). Add to lb., 3 to this sugar sugar 450 g. (l (lIb., 3 cups) cups) raw
unblanched unblanched wellwelldried almonds. Tip all ail this this mixture mixture
onto an an oiled marble marbre slab. Allow to cool. Pound the the mixture in in a
mortar. Pass Pass it through through a fine sieve. Keep Keep this this dry almond
almond powder powder in tins with well-fitting well-fitting lids. Almond Almond
tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES AMANDTNES AMANDINE.<; - The recipe recipe for these
these very delicate tartlets tartlets was was set set to to rhyme rhyme by by
Edmond Edmond Rostand in Cyrarn Cyrano de de Bergerac. Bergerac. The The recipe
recipe itself itself is tS attributed to to Ragueneau, Ragueneau, the the famous
famous seventeenth-century pastrypastrycook.

Here it is in verse: verse:

Comment on fail Comment on fait les tartelettes amandines amandines Battez, Battez,
pour pour qu'ils soient mousseux,

Quelques eufs; œufs: Quelques Incorporez d à leur mousse mousse jut de cCdrat Un Un
jus cédrat choisi; choisi: Versez-y Un bon lait d'amande d'amanck douce; douce;
Mettez de dflan ck la la pdte pâte à flan Dans le flanc flanc Dalll Ie De moules d
à tartelette; tartelette: D'tm D'un doigt doigt preste preste abricotez abricotez
Les Les cdtds; côtés; Versez Versez goutte d à gouttelette Votre en ces puits, puis
puis Votre mousse mousse m Que ces puits puits Que Passent anfour, au four, et,
blondines, blondines, Sortant en gais troupelets, troupelets, Ce sont SOn! les t e
le t t e s amandine s. Tar Tartelettes amandines.
Beat Beat your eggs, the yolk and white

Very light; their creamy creamy fluff Mingle with their Drops of of lime lime
juice, juice, cool and green; greeo; Then Theo pour in Milk of of almonds, almonds.
just just enough. enough. Dainty Dainty patty pans, pans, embraced embraced In
puff-paste Have these these ready within reach; With With your thumb thumb and and
finger, pinch pinch Half Half an inch inch the edge of of each Up around the Into
Into these, these, a score or more, Slowly Slowly pour pour All Ail your store
store of of custard; custard; so so Take them, them, bake them golden-brown golden-
brown Now sit down! . .. ... Almond Almond tartlets!i tartlets!·
* Cyruno de Bergerac • From From Brian Brian Hooker's Hooker's translationof
translation o/Cyrano Bergerac by by Ehnond EdmoruJ Rostand. Heinemann in
association association with with Allen & tlnwin. Unwin. Ros/and. Published
Published by Heinemann
AMANDfS ,ltr{tnss AMÈRES - Bitter almonds almonds owe Bitter almonds. AMANDES
bitterness to to the relatively relatively high amount amount of of prussic acid
their bitterness contain. They should therefore therefore be used in moderation.
moderation. they contain. These almonds almonds are employed in pdtisserie
pâtisserie for flavouring fiavouring icings and and fillings; and and in
confectionery. confectionery. They They are are not not used used as icings dessert
fruit. The oil obtained obUlÎned from from them is is poisonous. poisonous. Bhnctd
Blanched almonds. almonds. AMANDES AMANDES uoNoEss MONDÉES - Drid Dried almonds
almonds from which which the the skin skin has has been been removed. removed.
Proceed in in the from following following manner. manner. Put Put the almonds
almonds into into a sieve; sieve; plunge plunge into into a a saucepan saucepan of
of boiling boiling water water and immediately lmmediately draw the saucepan to to
the the side of of the stove. Drain Drain the the almonds, a few few at at a time,
lime, and aod skin skin thern them as soon as you see see that the the skin comes
cornes off when when pressed with the If Drop them them into into cold water,
water, drain and pat pat dry. If fingers. Drop t hey are to 10 be kept, kept,
scatter sca tter on a sieve or fine grill and dry they a tin or jar jar with a
thorougbly in a slow slow oven. oyen. Store Store in a thoroughly well-fitting
well-fitting lid. lid. Keep Keep in a dry place. place. Chopped Chopped elmonds.
almonds. AMANDES AMANDES HAcHEEs HACHÉES - These are are blanched blanched almonds
almonds roughly roughly or finely chopped depending upon upon how how they are are
to to be he employed. employed. Variously Coloured almonds. a Lmonds. AMANDES
AMANDES cot.oRfEs COLORÉES Variously Coloured coloured shredded shredded and and
ground ground almonds almonds are are used use<:! for for colourcolourcoloured ing
Îng nougat nougat and for for sprinkling sprinkling on iced iced petits petits
fours, fours, cakes, cakes, biscuits biscuits (cookies) (eookies) and sweet dishes.
dishes.

17
ALMONDS. EARTH ALMONDS,
appropriate to the colour may be added' added: thus Flavouring appropriate pink
scented with raspberryessence, raspberry essence; mauve flavoured pink may be
scented with wi th essence of violets. (Indian almond ahrod (lndian almond tree).
uomum. - This Country 1Iimond tuee). BADAMIER Country in Asia. tree, wruch which is
is also also ca called tree, lied catappa, grows generally in pleasant taste, from
wruch oil an oil fruit is is an an almond, of pleasant which an The fmit somewhat
similar to olive oil is extracted. produces resinous country almond produces and
Another species of country resinous and aromatic matter, matter, a a kind kind of
gum which is is used used in in aromatic gum benzoin, which confectionery.
confectionery. EN ofs Dic€d aImonds. almonds. AMANDEs Diced AMANDES EN DÉS -
Blanched, Blanched, halved as required. They are or small dice as almonds cut into
large or and in pdtisserie. used for sweet dishes and pâtisserie. This is AMANDEs
BRUTES BRUTEs the name almonds. AMANDES Raw 1Ilmonds. is the name given - This
almonds which which have tn pdtisserie and confectionery confectionery to in
pâtisserie and to almonds are left unof their hard shells but simply been taken
takeh out of simply hard shells but are skinned. Provengal almonds are the the most
sought The hard-shelled Provençal after for pdtisserie. after pâtisserie. But
medium-sized almonds grown in the plains are also in great demand. These often
contain quite a high proportion and are are the ones prehigh proportion of bitter
bitter almonds and the ones for ma making ferred for king almond paste. biraudc
almonds comprise comprise a smaller The broad and fleshy béraude percentage
percentage of bitter almonds and are generally shredded or ground and and used
ground used for sprinkling on petits petits fours, fours, biscuits and sweet
dishes. almonds are irregular in shape and very small. Tournefort a/monds Because
excellent flavour, they are much in demand Because of their theu excellent for the
confection confection of almond paste. cnIrrfss -- Shred Shed the almonds alnonds.
Roasted almolld Roasled .... AMANDES GRILLÉES and dry thern them in the oven until
they turn pale golden. AMANDEs SALÉES sALfEs almonds. AMANDES Salted almollds. -
Toast sweet blanched almonds in the oven until their colour changes changes to pale
yellow, almonds their colour with a pinch ofsaffron, of saffron, red pepper
Sprinkle with turning once. Sprinkle tuming pepper and golden brown. Drain on a
cloth ginger then fry in butter butter until golden ginger of and cool. Finally,
coat the almonds with a clear solution of gum arabic and sprinkle sprinkle with
fine salt. are used alnonds. AMANDES nrrnfrs Shredded almonds. EFFILÉES .. These
are used a great deal Shredded and deal in pdtisserie confectionery. Shredded grcat
pâtisserie and in confectionery. roasted almonds are used for coating and
garnishing sweet (white) almonds are are used shredded, unroasted (white) dishes;
dishes; shredded, used for of cooked nougat, confection of coatinEpetitsfours,
coating petits fours, and in the confection Mont6limar nougat, Montélimar nougat,
petits petils fours, fours, meringues, meringues, almond slices, etc. There are
several very efficient implements for shredding equally operation can be performed
although the operation almonds, although perforrncd equally lengthwise and each The
almonds should be cut lengthwise well by hand. Thealmondsshould weil becut This
shou should shredded into twelve to one shredded Id be one to fifteen fifteen
pieces. This and before after blanching done immediately irnroediately arter
blancrung and berore the the almonds laid on on a a metal they should be are dried.
dried. After are Aner shredding they be laid slow oven or orin avery sheetand sheet
and dried dried in a very slow in awarmingcupboard. a warrning cupboard. During the
drying drying process they should be turned three three times a Store in
hermetically hermetically sealed tins. a day. Store onic.cfEs coated with hard
dnonds DRAGÉES - Almonds coated Sugared almollds. (not, strictly strictly speaking,
speaking, exactly sugar. Sugared almonds (not, exactly as we coated with know know
thern them today, today, but but nevertheless nevertheless coated with sugar or It
is said that around around the year a long history. Il honey) have a Roman family,
a patrician Roman 177 t.c. 177 B.C. a farnily, the the illustrious Fabius of
distributing sugared almonds to the family, had the habit of populace as a token of
occasion of ofa ofrejoicing rejoicing on the occasion a birth birlh or of So il it
is evident that the custom marriage in in the the family. farnily. So custorn of
presenting at the of a a birth almonds at celebration of sugared almonds presenttng
sugared the celebration goes goes back a very long way. It is is difficult to make
make sugared almonds almonds at home, home, and hardly nec€ssary, necessary,
considering the excellent excellent sugared almonds manuare made Some are factured
commercially. Some factured commercially. made from from windfall wÎndfall almonds;
almonds; others with hazelnuts or pistachios; pistachios; others again almond or
chocolate, almond filled with drops of of liqueur, chocolate, few drops filled with
a a few are particularly etc. Verdun filbert paste, etc. Verdun sugared almonds are
particularly esteemed. DoucEs almonds. AMANDES DOUCES Sweet almollds. - Sweet
almonds are in great demand and confectionery; demand for pdtisserie confectionery;
ail all Spanish gœat pâtisserie and and Italian almonds are sweet. and esteemed as
dessert fruit Green sweet almonds are greatly esteemed and are consumed consumed in
great quantities. They are less oily and and that reason easier to digest digest
than dryalmonds. dry.almonds. for that Whole 1Ilmonds. AMANDEs ENTIÈRES ENTTiRES ..
almonds AMANDES When a Wbole a recipe in - When pdtisserie and confectionery
confectionery calls calls for a certain certain amount amount of pâtisserie and for
a whole almonds, this means blanched almonds and not raw always referred to as raw,
meaning with almonds, which are always the thin brown skin left on.
AMANDEs DE These are EARTH. AMANDES rERRE .. ALMONDS, EARTH. DE TERRE - These grow
in marshy ground ground in countries cyperus tubers, tubers, which grow and tempera
temperate climates. with hot and te c1imates. These almond-shaped atnond-shaped
tubers outside, very are brown These tubers are brown outside, white inside inside
and extremely starchy. They can either be eaten (like hazelnuts) or cooked (like
chestnuts). kind of raw (Iike chestnuts). A kind raw flour is made from them.

ALOCASIA ALOCASIA - Plant indigenous to the Indies of which there known species.
important of are about fifteen species. The The most arc fifteen known most
important these, a native of Ceylon, has spread throughout of the ofCeylon,
throughout most of as a Indian subcontinent. There its il, voluminous voluminous
roots serve as prolonged period of cooking. cooking. food, but only after a
prolonged

ALOE. Aloiis ALOÈS - A genus of plants plants belonging to the family purgative gum
plant a Liliaceae. From of this a purgative From the the leaves of this plant
Liliaceae. resin resin is extracted. Certain species found in Vietnam Vietnam
produce an edible starch. starch.
ALPIIEUS. ALPHÉE erpruu-A shellfish with a slightly slightly corn· comALPHEUS. -- A
kind of shellfish Some species species pressed body body resembling that of the
crayfish. Sorne are found in ail all French coastal coastal waters; others are
peculiar peculiar to the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. Sorne are confined to the
seas Some varieties are of Asia, Australia and America. America. quality to the
spiny Although spiny lobster, this shellshellAlthough inferior in quality fish fish
is is quite highly esteemed. All Ail methods of preparation given for lobster
lobstcr are applicable to it. il.
stocked with ALSACE ALSACEAisatian larder larder is is well weIl stocked with
numerous - The Alsatian of good fare excellent foods. Alsace and excellent Alsace
has a long tradition tradition of surprising that 50 not surprising that its its
gastronomic gastronomie repertoire repertoire is is a so it is is not lengthy one,
full of succulent succulent dishes. source of of unendColmar come that source From
From Strasbourg and Colmar gourmands, the and terrines and ing delight to ing
delight to gourmands, the magnificent magnificent terrines i! thcir gras truffés,
pdtis truffis, which rival in pâtés de foies gras their delicacy even of France
France (see PÂTÉS, PATES, TERRlNES). TERRINES). those of of the south-west south-
west of found delectable charcuteries The most delectable charcuteries in France
are also found in and thanks to the quality of the pork in Alsace, and pork
shoulder, saveloy and sausages, the smoked bacon, save/oy and sausages, the
choucroute choucroute prepared à d la mode strasbourgeolse strasbourgeoise is more
delicious than than any others. others. andfoies gras truffis, But choucroute
truffés, excellent excellent though though they cllOucroute andfoies specialities.
be, are not the only specialities. Pork is particularly Meat in this of good
quality. Pork particularly trus region is of ('the noble pig') holds a place of
high tasty. Seigneur cochon ('the honour in Alsace. Alsace. The The Benedictine
monks were the first to recognise the advantages advantages of ofpig recognise pig
breeding. were the first to keep fish 'The Benedictine monks, who were 5sh ponds,
thus thus laying the the basis basis of pisciculture, pisciculture, were were also
the advantages of pig first first to to recognise recognise the the advantages pig
breeding,' breeding,' writes Paul Bouillard in an essay on the cookery of of
Alsace. Alsace. In ln fact, firm-textured, delicately the the region region
produces produces firm·textured, delicately flavoured, flavoured, admirable
admirable pork. The Strasbourg pork butchers, butchers, masters masters of their
art, transform it into a number of preparations preparations which which are not
only enjoyed of Alsace cnjoyed by the gourmets of Alsace but in all ail the best
Paris restaurants.

l8 18
ALSACE

I NE 'I\_rtr _ :

MA.NY

''-;ffl r,"*Yr.r'",'\egetabl

It Alsatian Alsatian geese geese are famous for the delicacy of their flesh. It
geese that is from from these these specially fattened geese that the magnificent
magnmcent Alsace transmattres de cuisine in Alsace liver liver is obtained which
the maîtres and terrines. celebrated pdtes form so skilfully skilfully into the
celebrated fonn pâtés and good. And good and and taste good. The vegetables of
Alsace look good produce delectable fruit of delectable fruit of which of Alsace
produce the the orchards orchards of
plums, some, such as quetsches (Alsace plums) and mirabelle plums, sorne, fresh but
are also used used to make are not only delicious to eat fresh (see SPIRITS). not
be The list list wou would noted eaux-de-vie eaux-de-vie (see SPIRITS). The noted
Id not and the the raspthe cherries cherries and complete without without
mentioning the complete make well-known liqueurs. which are are distilled to to
make berries, berries, which does not know fish are renowned, too. Who does The
freshwater fish trout, salmon, the river trou of the Rhine salmon, the succulence
of t, the crayand the eels, eels, tench tench and the Vosges; Vosges; the fish from
from the the streams streams of of the fish vin d'Alsace d'Alsace are are au vin
matelotes au from which which delicious matelotes bream from prepared prepared ? no
means menWith such raw materials - and we have by no and cordon cordon bleu mattes
de de cuisine cuisine and all of them the maîtres tioned aIl - the Alsace well. In
fact the Alsace Alsace cannot help but cook weil. of Alsace chefs of meal is a a
perfect epicurean epicurean symphony. meal Strasbourg and and de Strasbourg
magnificent choucroute chouuoute de the magnificent Besides the Besides principal
pdti gras aux the principal are the aix truffes truffes the the following are pâté
de foie gras of the the region's representative of Alsace, dishes truly truly
representative dishes of Alsace, superb cuisine: potee : matelote specialities
Alsatian potée: matelote of of fish de Culinary specialities .fish de - Aisatian
carp à d Alsatian wine'; wine'; stuffed carp in Alsatian I'Ill; crayfish
crayfish'cardinalised l'Ill; 'cardinalised in veal; hot hot meat breast of of veal;
stuffed crayfish flan; l'alsacienne; crayfish tuffed breast flan; s noodles ;
pdti ; anion of hare hare with with noodles; zewelewai; civet civet of onion flan
or zewelewal; pâté; flan or kind of estouffade estouffade a kind beckenoffe, a hare
à d la la crème; crime; beckenoffe, saddle of hare pork and potatoes, which which
must must be and potatoes, made with with mutton, mutton, pork made justify its
geese à d name; fat its name; in a a baker's to justify cooked cooked in baker's
oyen oven to fat geese pickled pork with pickled shoulder of of pork i.e., shoulder
I'alsacienne;the l'alsaCienne; the schifela, i.e., pastry; fricassée of chicken
chicken à d in pastry; turnips; ham ham cooked cooked in turnips; fricassde of
goose; turkey calfs turkey with with chestnuts; chestnuts; calf's salmis of of
goose; I'alsacienne; salmis l'alsacienne; pork partridges;kalerei, akind of
partridges; of pork liverfritters; liver fritters; chartreuse kalerel, a kind of
chartreuse of puddings, saveloys and sausages; sausages; saveloys and brawn;
Strasbourg Strasbourg black brawn; black puddings, goret' ; red with pig 'à 'd la
peau de red cabbage cabbage with de goret'; stufed sucking sucking pig la peau
stuffed rabi à potatoes à d la la crème; crime; kohl rabi d l'alsacienne;
I'alsacienne; kohl chestnuts; potatoes chestnuts;

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Gastronomie map of Alsace Gastronomic map of Alsace

$itirj:iifl'fiii,=''

(pork butcher:y AJsatian produce): Alsatian charcuterie charcuterie (pork butchery

produce): (Schinkenwurst); (knackwurst);2. l. usages (knackwurst); 2. Saveloys; 4.
Metwurst; 6. Ham Ham sausage pudding with l. Little Little Strasbourg with tangue;
sausage (Schinkenwurst); Black pudding Strasbourg sa sausages Saveloys; 3. 3. Thann
Thann sausage; Metwurstl 5. tongue;6. 5. Black sausage;4. in 7. 7. Schwartenroagen;
Bierwurst; 9. Veal roll; roll; 10. 10. Schwartwurst; I l. Strasbourg 12. Mulhouse
13. Lyon Lyon type type sausageroade sausage made in Schwartenmagen; 8. 8.
Bierwurst; 9. Veal Schwartwurst; Il. Strasbourg sausage; sausage; 12. Mulhouse
sausage; sausage; J3. gras Strasbourg; 14. Leberwurst; Leberwurst; 15. 15. Tongue
Tongue roll roli with with truffies; 16. Veal Veal roll roll with with foie foie
gras Strasbourg; 14. trufres; 16.

19 19
(A L') ALSACIENNE (À L') ALSACIENNE

Wasselonne
o

s'n"^"*

-, - Q!?"w.E

R'TS1st

Alsatian kugelhopf kugclbopf Alsatian

iylvtancr

noodles à d l'alsacienne; l'alsacienne; knepfle. knepfle,a fritter; mi/chstriwle;

kind of of fritter; milchstriwle; noodles a kind bretzel; schenkele; schenkele;
beignets (carnival beignets de de carnaval carnaval (car fritters); bretzel; nival
fritters); various types· types of of Aisatian Alsatian tarts; tarts; kougloff
kougloff or or kugelhopf; kugelhopf; various Jewish kouguel; kouguel ; bi/berry
kafeekrantz, etc. bilberry flan; etc. Jewish flan ; kaffeekrantz, Winos To
accompany good things, accompany ail all these these good things, Alsace Alsace
WiDes - To produceq in in addition addition to to a a delicious delicious beer,
some rare rare and and beer, sorne produces, exceptional wines, which which are are
mostly white. white. The decree decree of of 3 3 October 1962 created October 1962
created the the appellation appellation The 'Alsace' or or 'vin 'vin d'Alsace'.
d'Alsace'. This This appellation appellation can include the can include 'Alsace'
the grape. In variety of grape. In fact, fact, Alsace Alsace wine wine does does
not not usually usually bear bear variety the na name of the the locality locality
from from which which it it cornes, comes, but but of of the the me of the grape
used production. used in in its its production. variety of grape Cipaga nobles.
nobles. Sylvaner. Sylvaner. A fresh, fruit fruity wine, best drunk Cépages y wine,
best drunk young. Excellent accompaniment for for sauerkraut sauerkraut and and
charcharyoung. cuterie. Muscat. A A wine wine with with a a distinct aromatic
aromatic Bavour flavour tbat that is is Muscat. an apéritif ap'6ritif or dessert
dessert wine. generally served as an (or 'Alsace Tokay'): gris (or Tokay'): Quite a
full-bodied full-bodied wine wine Pinot gris Quite a with a a delicate bouquet. (or
Clevner): Pinot blanc blanc (or A fresh, freslr" rather rather sharp Clevner): A
Pinot sharp wine, often used used for blending. Gewiirztraminer and Traminer.
Traminer. The The wine from from tbis grape this grape Gewürztrarniner is very
fruit fruity, a distinctive distinctive flavour, flavour, and and is is often drunk
y, with a well weil matured. dty, very elegant elegant wine, full of vigour.
vigour. Perfect Riesling. A dry, for fish, goes well seafood. It It also also goes
well with with sauerfish, shellfish and seafood. kraut.

Hardt Clevner

IINE
iVeuf

rch;/ Guebwr'ller

Wine Wine map map of of Alsace Alsace

Cépages Cdpages courants. Chasselas and Kniperlé. Kniperl6. Carafe Chasselas and
Carafe wines. wines. The The wine resulting from from the the blending of of
cépages cipages nobles nobles and and cépages cipages courants is is called called
Zwicker. Zwicket Edelzwicker Edelzwicker is is the name the name given to a a b1end
blend of cépages cipages nobles. nobles. Red wines wines and and Rosés. Rosis. The
The red red wines wines are made from from the are made the black Pinot grape,
grape, rosé ros6 from the grey Pinot grape. Producthe grey Pinot grape. Production
is poor compared to that of of white wine. wine. The The name of of the the
locality locality often grape. Among often accompanies accompanies that that of of
the the grape. Among the best known are Ammerschwihr, Ammerschwihr, Barr, Barr,
Eguisheim, KaysersKaysersberg, berg, Kientzheim, Kientzheim, Mittelwihr,
Ribeauvillé, Ribeauvill6, Riquewihr. Riquewihr. ALSACIENNE ALSACIENNE (A L')
applying to ro an an enormous enonnous - Definition app1ying number of
preparations. The predominating predominating ingredients of of dishes prepared are
dishes thus are sauerkraut, ham thus prepared ham and and Strasbourg Strasbourg
sausage. sausage.

ALUM. ALUN sulphate of aluminium and and potas- A double sulphate sium or ammonium;
an an astringent-tasting astringent-tasting salt. salt. Alum was once used used in
confectionery confectionery to set the co10ur to set colour of of pâtisserie to
crystallised fruits, fruits, and and in in pdtisserie prevent egg to prevent egg
whites whi1e being whisked. This from curdling while from is now This is now
forbidden forbidden by law.
ALUMINlTE -A - A kind kind of alumina-based fireproof ALLTMINITE of alumina-based
fireproof porcelain. Ali porcelains, in fact, fact, are based on All are based
silicates, but alumina silicates, on alumina but
Vines Vines in in Alsace Alsace (French (French Government Governmenr Tourist
Tourisi Ofice) Office)

higher content content of aluminite has a higher of alumina alumina (oxide of of

alumialumiis consequently much tougher than nium) and is than other other
porceresistance to heat. lains and possesses a far greater resistance to heat.

20 20
AMBIGU

kitchen utensils: utensils : Aluminite kitchen L Gratin dish: 2. Saucepan: Shell;

10. Soufflé SouffiE dish dish; 2. 4. Sauté dish; 7. 7. Plate; Plate; 8. 8.
Rarnekin: Ramekin; 9. 9. Shell; Saucepan; 3. 3. Coffee fiIter; 1. 6lter: 4. Saut6
pan; 5. 5. Vegetable steamer; 6. 6. Snail dish;

lightness. silver, sil ver, its principal characteristic being its extreme extreme
lightness. of aluminium have led to its use The numerous properties of marmites,
manufacture of of kitchen utensils: saucepans, marmites, in the manufacture
stewpans, etc. previously etc. Conclusive Conclusive experiments experiments were
were previously stewpans, action various liquids used carried out to determine the
action used in preparation of food had on aluminium. food had the preparation It
has been proved that there is little or no reaction with pure a1cohol, red or or
white white wine, wine, brandy, red brandy, pure alcohol, coffee coffee or or tea
beer, 5 per cent cent solution of tartaric, acetic, poured in hot, beer, acids, 3
per cent solution of butyric citric, lactic or phenic acids, per cent solution 0'2
percent solution ofsalicylic of salicylic acid. Nitric acid, on the acid, 0·2
vigorously. other hand, attacks the metal vigorously.

ALUMINIUM Ductile, resistant metal looks like metal that that looks - Ductile,

AMANITA. AMANITE AMANIT A. AMANITE of the agaric agaric group. - A genus of fungi
of of amanitae, amanitae, sorne some edible, others There are numerous species of
is, therefore, very important and even deadly. It is, dangerous and MUSHROOMS.) to
learn to recognise them. (See MUSHROOMS.)

positively ecstatic outpouring, sings the praises Savarin, in a positively of the

restorative powers of ambergris chocolate. This product, which which was was
formerly uSed in confectionery This used in confectionery perfumery. used as il a
fixative in perfümery. and in cookery, is today used In Miditation Z1 Brillat-
Savarin refers to ln Méditation VI Brillat-Savarin refers to ambergris 'I know that
as the africted': '1 chocolate as the 'chocolate of the the affiicted': glorious
memory, constantly Marshal Richelieu, of glorious Marshal constantly chewed get one
as for myself, when 1 I get one of those ambergris lozenges; lozenges; as felt, or
when one's days when the weight of age makes itself itself feh, sluggish, 1 I add a
knob of of ambergris ambergris the size of of a bean, mind is sluggish, pounded
with sugar, I a strong sugar, to to a strong cup cup of chocolate, and and 1
poundedwith always find find my condition improves improves marvellously.
marvellously. The my condition always flow with ease; burden of life becomes
lighter, thoughts ftow ease, and I do do not suffer from insomnia, which would have
have been 1 bden the invariable result of a cup of coffee taken for the same
purinvariable pose.' highly praises the power of Brillat-Savarin also bighly of
ambergris in his Magl'stires Magistères Restaurants. Restaurants.

plant is AMARANTH. This plant ,lMA.n.ANrp is cultivated cultivated in AMARANTH.

AMARANTE - This for the beauty of its ftowers. flowers. In In Italy, howFrance
mainly for leaves of one variety variety of amaranth are eaten, ever, the tender
leaves prepared rather like spinach. spinach.
Nvrsns GRIS cRIs intestinal concretion concretion of of the AMBERGRIS. AMBRE - An
intestinal sperm whale found found ftoating floating on the Far Eastern Eastern
sperm the surface of Far wax-like substance, dotted with yellow and black seas. It
is a wax-like spots, and possessing a strong and pleasant smel!. spots, sed in
smell. U Used ancient pharmacopoeia as as an an antispasmodic, it it was also
ancient wasalso Brillatcredited with aphrodisiac and restorative properties.
Brillat-

(Cold collation) gives the collation) AMBIGU (Cold Trivoux Dictionary gives -
Trévoux 'A mixed following definition: at which definition: 'A mixed collation
collation at which meat following such a manner manner as to make one and fruit are
served together together in such wonder whether it is a simple collation or a
supper.' In other dictionaries same dictionaries the ln the sa me definition, or or
nearly nearly the same, sa me, is given with the proviso that the dishes served at
this of meal must be cold. kind of lnhis de cuisine, cuisine, Joseph Favre says ln
his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire universel universel de that the word ambigu is
applicable to a meal which is taken dinner. or between dinner and lunbetween
luncheon and dinner,

Amanitae

2l 21
AMBROSIA AMBROSIA
cheon, and at which ail all the dishes, the sweets and the dessert, cheon, are
served at the same lime. time. This name name should apply specifically to an
evening evening meal, to an between midnight and or supper served between and two
o'dock in the o'clock in the (evening party). morning, in the course of a soirée
morning, soirie (evening
ambrosier, a bush with sweet-smelling leaves. It It flowers and and leaves. sweet-
smelling flowers arnbrosier, said to have have restorative powers, especially for
stomachic restorative powers, especially for is said complaints. complaints.
AMBROSIE from the the made from A kind kind of of tea tea made AMBROSIA. tr,rnnosrE
-A

found in The species in Asia Asia and and Africa. Africa. The known under found
species known under the the of Amomum Amomwn cardamon name of scientific scientific
name cardamon produces capsular capsular fruit often called called cardamom,
cardamom, which which are are used as as a a substitute substitute for real real
cardamom. cardamom. quantities of Considerable Considerable quantities of amomum
amomum are are exported exported from from Siam, Siam, Singapore Singapore and and
Saigon. In France France the Saigon. In the seeds seeds are are grains of variously
variously known known as as grains of paradise, Malaguetta Malaguetta pepper,
grains, and Guinea are occasionally used as a a sulJstlltulte substitute for Guinea
grains, and are used as pepper.
AMOUAMOU - Béarnaise B6arnaise cheese cheese consumed consumod from from October
October to to May. May. AMOURETTES AMOURETTES -- Culinary name for Culinary name
for the the spinal spinal marrow marrow of of oxen amourettes, very delicate oxen
and and calves. calves. Calves' delicate in in flavour, flavour, Calves'amourettes,
pies, vol-au-vent, are patties, hot are used as as a a filling filling for for
patties, hot timbales,pies, vol-au-vent, etc. etc. Amourettes prepared as
Amourettes can can also also be be prepared as an an independent independent dish,
dish, made made into into croquettes, and various croquettes, and various fried
fried dishes, dishes, etc. etc. Ives' and Most Most of and lambs' lambs' brains of
th..:: the recipes recipes given for for ca brains calves' which amourettes
amourettes rather resemble resemble -- can be applied to to them. them. can be No
first No matter how how amourettes amourettes are are prepared, they should should
first be (q.v.) in the same in court-bouillon way as as calves' be boiled court-
bouillon (q.v.) same way calves' boiled in (see OFFAL and brains (see and lambs'
lambs'brains MEATS). OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). AMPHICLES More AMPHICLES
-- Celebrated cook of ancient Greece. Greece. More Celebrated cook of ancient than
his colleagues of of that that distant distant epoch, epoch, Amphicles Amphicles
than any any of of his deserves alone recognised recognised He alone from oblivion.
oblivion. He deserves to to oe be rescued from ail ostentatious in in the the all
that and foolishly foolishly ostentatious that was wa3 barbarous barbarous and
culinary and in in his time, his teachings, teachings, and time, and methods of of
his and in in bis culinary methods - practice, practice, he them a a task of he
devoted himself to to the of bringing bringing to to them devoted himself the task
saner prepare nature's nature's products liked to saner logic. 'Amphicles liked to
prepare simply. a spit spit and and served underundersimply. He had a hare cooked
cooked on on a done fennel. nothing but a sprinkling sprinkling of of coriander
coriander and and fenne!. done with with nothing but a He pig should sucking pig
simply be be boiled boiled He maintained maintained that that a a sucking should
simply and leaves sage. He He wrapped larks larks in in vine vine leaves and placed
on on a a bed bed of of sage. and among the the them among and red mullet mullet in
in fig fig leaves leaves and and cooked them cinders. No-one knew knew better a
cinders. No-one better than than he he how how to to harmonise harmonise a piece
piece of disapproved more aromatic. No-one No-one disapproved of flesh flesh and
and an an aromatic. more than t he did did of the flavour flavour of of a a mea
meat than he of the the practice of disguising the or vegetable. This friend friend
of of Theotime even even used spic€s used spices or vegetable. sparingly
predecessors îndiscrimisparingly in in his his sauces. sauces. Where Where bis his
predecessors indiscriminately nately mixed mixed the' the- most most iIl-assorted
ill-assorted condiments condiments together, together, where lavished twenty where
his his emulators, emulators, whimsical whimsical to to excess, lavished twenty
ingredients a single single dish, dish, Amphicles himself to to ingredients on on a
Amphicles confined himself two three.' two or or three.' Our maltre de de cuisine
cuisine Our reason reason for for dwelling dwelling on on this this ancient ancient
maître is ply to practitioners of is sim simply to remind remind more more modern
modern practitioners of the the art art that lie in that cuIinary culinary merit
merit does does not ndt necessarily necessarily lie in the the extravaextravagance
gance of of the the trimmings. trimmings. AMPHITRYON (tlost) -- Authors
gastronomical books Authors of of gastronomical books AMPHITRYON (Host) (such (such
as la Reynière, Reynidre, Berchoux, Berchoux, as Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin,
Grimod Grimod de de la Monselet Monselet and and Chavette) and most dictionaries
define define the the most dictionaries Chavette) and word 'the one as 'the whom we
we dine'. According to to Molière: Molidre: word as one with with whom dine'.
According 'The 'The real real Amphitryon Amphitryon Is st with I dîne.' Is mine
mine ho host with whom whom 1 dine.' Ail gastronomical writers precepts on All the
the gastronomical writers have have laid laid down down precepts on the guests. The
relationships of hosts and and guests. The most most famous the relationships of
hosts famous of of these la dela works is is the Manuel des des amphitryons
arnphitryons by by Grimod Grimod de these works the Manuel Reynière. Reynidre. In
le recent times In more more recent Auguste Michel Michel has has devoted devoted
aawho whole times Auguste book 'the man full of receives at at his his book full of
usefuJ useful hints hints to to 'the man who who receives table' table' concerning
concerning his his rôle r6le of Manuel des des of host, host, entitled entitled
Manuel nn<mhitrufllH au debut du XX" siècle. amphitryons an debut fu X)( siicle.
host, means host, only means speaking the the word word «rnnhitnJAn amphitryon only
Strictly "P'-"""".5, and on who person who enterenterand applies, and should only
only apply, to the pers tains his table. table. tains someone someone at at rus We
host was in find it it difficult to imagine imagine what what aa host was like We
find difficult to like in ancient amphitryons, of the the most celebrated
amphitryons, ancient times. times. One One of most celebrated
22 22

AMÉLÉON A French a for a French word used in in Normandy for word used AMELEON -A

particular kind of of cider.

AMERICA (See WINES, WINES, INTERand cuisine. cuisine. (See Wines and - Wines
COOKERY.) NATIONAL COOKERY.) AMÉRICAINE (À given to various methods of (A V) of L)
anAEnfClINE - Name given preparing meat, prethese prevegetables. Among Among these
preparing fish, eggs, eggs, vegetables. meat, fish, the best-known (see
I'amiricaine (see is Lobster Lobster à d l'américaine parations the best-known is
LOBSTER). AMERICAN P ARTRIDGE. COLIN partridge Bird of the partridge PARTRIDGE.
corrN -- Bird of the quail, very family, a in America. a little larger than than
quail, very common in The (bob-white, quail (bob-white, The colin colin loui, loui,
also also called called American Americmt quail Virginian colin) is highly esteemed
Virginiot esteemed in in the United States, States, and and the United is now
established established in England. (For its culinary preparation, see see QUAIL,
QUAIL, PARTRIDGE.) AMIENS gastronomically AMIENS is famous, famous, gastronomically
- This town in Picardy is speaking, its andouillettes speaking, for its duck pie,
its andouillettes and and its macaroons. macaroons. AMIRAL (A L') fish dishes.
dishes. The The charactercharacterAMIRAL (À - Name given to fish istic garnish,
composed of dishes is is their their garnish, composed of these dishes istic
feature of these fried mussels which and truffies, trufres, to which mussels and
and oysters, oysters, crayfish tails and peeled peeled mushrooms are are added.
added. The The sauce is a a Normandy sauce is sauce (see SAUCE) (see flavoured with
SAUCE) flavoured with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see sauce (see BUTTER).
BUTTER). AMMAPERDRIX partridge A variety variety of of the AMMAPERDRD( the European
European partridge -A found It only in Algeria, Algeria, Egypt, Israel, India India
and and Persia. Persia. It only Egypt, Israel, found in differs (it is is smaller)
red-legged partridge in from the in its its size size (it smaller) the red-legged
differs from and likes in the absence of a tarsal The ammaperdrix ammaperdrix likes
the absence of a and in tarsal spur. spur. The hiding partridge, feeds places and,
like the French partridge, hiding in in rocky and, like feeds rocky places the
French on plants resembling wild thyme. They are are and wild on plants resembling
thyme thyme and thyme. They sometimes Mediterfields on on the wandering about about
the sometimes found found wandering the fields the Mediterranean given of France.
France. Ail All methods methods of of preparation given ranean coast coast of for
(q.v.) can partridge (g.v.) applied to for partridge can he to this be applied this
bird. AMMOCOETE. - A fish lamprey, fish resembling resembling the the lamprey,
errarrlocire-A AMMOCOETE. AMMOCÈTE found the Seine. Seine. mouth of of the found in
in the the mouth The (q.v.) and given for preparation given for eel eel (q.v.) and
The methods methods of of preparation lamprey applicable to fish. lamprey (q.v.)
are are applicable to this this fish. AMMONlA. gaseous compound of nitrogen
nitrogen compound of AMMoNIAc -- A A gaseous AMMONIA. AMMONIAC and possessing
strong caustic proand caustic strong alkaline alkaline and hydrogen possessing and
hydrogen perties. sneezing, gas affects perties. This the breathing breathing and
and causes causes "ll",çL.!Jl)';, This gas affects the watering soluble in It is is
easily easily soluble and cougrung. coughing. Il of the the eyes, eyes, and
watering of water, volatile liquid ammonia ammonia or or volatile constitutes
liquid and then then constitutes water, and alkali (the aqueous of it it A few few
drops of solution of of ammonia). ammonia). A aqueous solution alkali (the are
vomiting. of inebriety inebriety to to induce induce vomi'tml!. in cases cases of
are recommended recommended in "",,,'liTJ''U>J.~'''''', cARBoNATE .luttloNIAQUE,
CARBONATE OF. AMMONIAQUE, AMMONIA, CARBONATE CARBONATE OF. heat into into action of
of heat under the the action decomposes under D' - A salt that decomposes ammonia
gaseous) without leaving without leaving acid (both gaseous) carbonic acid ammonia
and and carbonic preparations under names It is is used in certain preparations
under the the names any residue. residue. It used in powder or or Alsatian Alsatian
yeast to render non-fermented non-fermented of baking powder to render dough
porous. The gases, in occupy a and porous. in escaping, occupya spongy and dough
spongy greater an the grains of flour, vacuoles greater volume and form vacuoles
the grains flour, and v-olume th than in thedough. These then disappear completely
if the heat of of in the dough. These then disappear completely if the heat the
oyen is sufficiently strong. strong. is sufficiently the oven AMOMUM. ginger family
family herb of of the the ginger AMoME -- Perennial Perennial herb AMOMUM. AMOME
ANAEMIA ANAEMIA

Terracotta amphorae amphorae for for Terracolla storing oil oil or or wine wine
storing

Decorated Greek Greek amphora amphora Decorated

historical or or legendary, legendary, was was Lucullus. Lucullus. He He can can be

as a a be taken as historical model of amphitryons, for of amphitryons, forhe
guests truly offered his his guests trulymagnifihe offered magnifimodel feasts.
cent feasts. cent Historians havegiven have given us us accounts accounts of of the
the lavishness lavishness of of Historians Maecenas' table; table; he, he, too,
too, is is described great master of described as as a a great of Maecenas' the art
art of of entertaining. entertaining. Heliogabulus Heliogabulus was was another
renowned the for the the extraordinary extraordinary luxury luxuryof his table.
table. Then Then there there were were the for of his men of three men (see of the
the name Apicius in in ancient ancient Rome Rome (see name Apicius three APTCTUS).
APICIUS). Let us us not not forget forget Assurbanipal, Assurbanipal, even even
though he he belongs belongs to Let legend rather rather than than to history. He
was one one of of the the most legend to history. He was ostentatious of of the the
Assyrian Assyrian kings kings none other than than the ostentatious - none
legendary Sardanapalus. Sardanapalus. legendary Belshazzar, must have grand
amphitryon on a grand Belshazzar, too, too, must have been been an an amphitryon on
a scale, because when describing even describing a a truly scale, because ev en
today, today, when truly magnifimagnificent still say say that we still that it it
was'a was 'a veritable veritable Belshazzar's Belshazzar's cent banquet, banquet,
we feast'. feast'. 'For a 'For a rich rich man,'writes man,' writes Grimod Grimod
de de la la Reynidre, Reynière, 'the 'the best r6le is that rôle in in the the
world world is that of of host.' host.' Berchoux, says: Berchoux, for for his his
part, part, says:

ground or on on a a specially specially constructed pierced pierced shelf. ground

AMYGDALINE name for for the the substance substance that AMYGDALINE - Chemical name
makes the the oil oil of bitter almonds noxious. noxious. Amygdalin is makes is the
the all substances, cakes or sweets, sweets, that contain term applied to ail
almonds. ANAEMIA. ANÉMIE llwrtIun characterised by a diminuANAEMIA. - Anaemia is
characterised tion of of the the red red corpuscles corpuscles of the blood.
Persons suffering tion the blood. anaemia are said to be anaemic. anaemic. from
anaemia Diet for anaemÏcs anaemics - Iron being the principal medicine for anaemic
conditions, conditions, dieticians introduce introduoe as as many iron-rich anaemic
foods into possible. These the diet diet as as possible. yolk of These are are yolk
foods into the of egg, meat, pig's (animal origin); green cabbage, blood, etc.
origin); green etc. (animal meat, pig's blood, spinach, chicory, chicory, oats,
oats, lentils, white haricot beans, carrots, etc. (vegetable is naturally etc.
(vegetable origin); also also red red wine. wine. It It is naturally advisable,
before following following such a diet, diet, to take into account the condition of
of the digestive digestive organs, since they are usually usually deficient. This
is the reason why, for example, ex ample, pig's blood, although rich in iron, can
can rarely rarely be he used. used. This This diet diet has rich in recently been
modified modified following research research carried carried out by an American
scholar, Dr. American scholar, Dr. Whipple, Whipple, who who has has proved proved
both experimentally experimentally and in in practice practice that that calfs
calfs liver liver is the the food food that best assures the regeneration of of the
the blood; blood; kidneys, hearts hearts and meat also react react well, weil, but
but less effectively. The efrcacy efficacy of preparations preparations based based
on on dehydrated dehydrated stomach, usually prescribed in pharmaceutical
pharmaceutical form, has has also also been been recognised. recognised. Whipple's
diet consists of a daily ration of 150-250 g. (5-9 (5-9 oz.) calf's liver eaten for
breakfast breakfast or lunch, a little meat, meat, fresh fresh vegetables
vegetables chosen chosen from those those rich rich in iron, iron, fruit fruit
(peaches, (peaches, apples, etc.). etc.). Bread, Bread, starch starch products,
products, eggs eggs and sugar sugar are are restricted; restricted; oils and and
fats fats are are forbidden forbidden apart apart from from a a little little fresh
fresh butter; butter; skinmed skimmed milk milk is is generally generally allowed.
allowed. The The Iiver liver has has preferably preferably to to be be eaten eaten
raw, raw, especially especially for for grave grave forms of pernicious pernicious
anaemia. anaemia. forms of There There are are various various recipes recipes for
for the the preparation preparation of of raw raw or or cooked cooked liver. liver.
Raw Raw liver. liver. Slice Slice the the liver, liver, then then mince mince it.
it. The The resulting resulting pulp pulp should should be he free free from from
all all stringy stringy tissues. tissues. Serve Serve it it in in sandwiches,
sandwiches, or or mixed mixed with with preserves, preserves, or or with with wann
warm beef beef tea tea to to form fonn a a pur6e. purée. There is even even a a
recipe recipe for for liver liver cocktail. cocktail. Pound Pound about about There
is 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lightly lightly cooked cooked liver. liver. Place
Place on on lettuce lettuce leaves, leaves, and and season season with with salt
salt and and pepper. pepper. Add Add a a slice slice of of raw raw tomato, tomato,
choppd chopped parsley parsley and and a a little little mustard. mustard. Prepare
Prepare It cup cup tomato tomato sauce, sauce, * t cup cup lemon lemon juice,
juice, 2 2 coffeespoons coffeespoons Worcestershire Worcestershire sauce,1| sauce,
t coffeespoon coffeespoonfinely finely chopped chopped shallots, shallots, salt
salt and and pepper. pepper.
23 23

'S'il est 'S'il est un un r6le rôle noble noble et et bien bien digne digne
d'envie, d'envie, C'est C'est celui celui d'un d'un mortel mortel qui quifait en sa
sa maison, maison, fait en Les Les honneurs honneurs de de sa sa table table en en
digne digne amphitryon.' amphitryon.'

The of his his table table like like a a true true amphitryon.' amphitryon.' The
honours honours of Barras, Cambac6rds and Talleyrand Barras, Cambacérès and
Talleyrand were were distinguished distinguished amphitryons. amphitryons. Napoleon
Napoleon said said of of Cambacerds: Cambacérès: 'If 'If you you wish wish to to
eat Other tables tables eat really really well, weil, go go and and visit visit my
my arch-chancellor.' arch-chancellor.' Other were their food, were renowned
renowned for for the the quality quality of oftheir food, although although some,
sorne, like that of of Princess Princess Mathilde, Mathilde, for for their their
mediocrity. mediocrity. The The like that disappearance disappearance of of great
great wealth, wealth, the the servant servant problem, problem, the the habit of
entertaining entertaining in in restaurants, restaurants, have have pushed pu shed
amphiamphihabit of tryonism tryonism to to the the background. background. But But
there there are are still still houses houses where where great great pains pains
are are taken taken to to ensure ensure the the bonheur bonheur gourmand gourmand
of of the the guests. guests.

'If 'If there there is is a a noble noble r6le, rôle, a a truly truly enviable
enviable one, one, It It is is that that of of a a mortal mortal who who in in his
his house house does does

amphora, of the the Romans, Romans, was was 25.89litres. 25·89 litres. An An
amphora amphora amphora, that that of kept kept in in the the Capitol Capitol
served served as as a a standard standard measure. measure. The The Attic Attic
arrphor4 of the the Greeks, Greeks, was was a a third third larger. larger.
Amphorae Amphorae amphora, that that of were were used used to to store store oil,
oil, wine, wine, olives olives and and raisins. raisins.

AMPHORA. AMPHORA. AMpHoRE AMPHORE - A A terracotta terracotta vase vase used used
in in ancient ancient t'mes times for for measuring measuring liquids. liquids. The
The capacity capacity of of the the Italic Italic

The amphora was was sess/r.s sessilis or or non non se.rsills sessilis according
according to to The amphora whether whether it it stood stood upright upright on on
its its base base or or terminated terminated in in a a rounded in a a hole hole in
in the the rounded point. point. In In the the latter latter case case it it was
was placed placed in
ANAGNOST ANAGNOST
1 part part of minced minced or grated grated liver to 2l 21 pans parts of this
this Mix I shake and and chill. chilI. mixture, shake Ca/f's liver /iver an au
gratin. Blanch Blanch and and dice dice 450 450 g. (l (1 lb.) calf's calf's Calf's
liver, and and place place it on a a buttered buttered plate. Cover with
breadliver, crumbs, white sauce sauce and pulped pulpedtomatoes. tomatoes. Season
with salt crumbs, and pepper pepper and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. A
little Httle ham ham and chopped and he· added. added. parsley may be Liver balls.
balls. Blanch and pound 450 g. g. (1 (l lb.) liver with rashers cif Of fat bacon.
Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) 2 rashers crea m, I 1 chopped chopped onion,
onion, 2 2 eggs (or (or the the yolks yolks only), only), and stale cream, fresh
breadcrumbs until of a consistency to forrn fonn into or fresh rather large balls.
Bake these in the oven. oven. rather Liver creun. cream. Mix i cup pounded poupded
liver urith with I 1 egg, egg, well weIl Liuer and season with salt and pepper.
Thin with milk, beaten, and place in the oven until set. pour into a bain-marie,
and place Raw /iver vinaigrette. Cut raw liver into small pieces and Raw liver
season with vinegar, onion, parsley and chervil. chervil. season

ANAGNOST. ANAcNosrEANAGNOSTE - Name given by the Romans to ANAGNOST. job it was to

read during during meals. meals. slave whose job the slave The of the Emperor
Emperor Claudius, Claudius, The custom dates from the time of although nowadays
nowadays it it hardly hardJy exists, except except in sorne some nunneries althougb
of the· French French educational establishments run by the run by educational
establishments of the Church. He was considered a privileged privileged person. His
meals Church. were bis companions corn panions had left the table, were served to
him after his and he was usually given a a wider choice and more copious The post
was was much by the after by much sought after portions of food. food. The pupils.
monasteries. and monasteries. Not so there was an anagnoste in each Not so long
ago, however, there

Preparation of of anchovies (after (afler a drawing HoueI) Preparation drawing by J

Houel)

ANALECT. y duty slave whose dut ANALEcTE- Name given to the slave ANALECT.
ANALECTEit was to collect the remains of a a Roman meal. meal. History does not
relate what happened left-overs; they were probhappened to these left-overs; ably
portions, artistically artistically arranged, acceptable portions, ably neatened
into acceptable and and sold in special markets. (See ARLEQUINS.)
and up and Whatever builds builds up - Whatever restores Term applied to light
foods which rcstores exhausted exhausted forces. Tenu are easy quickly produce a
sensation of a sensation to digest and which guickly €asy to well-being. Full-
bodied wines, wines, heef beef tea, meat jellies, tapioca and analeptics. all
analeptics. and chocolate are aIl

ANALEPTIC. lNlr.eprIQUE ANALEPTIC. ANALEPTIQUE

ANALYSIS. term for for the the separation ANALYSIS. ANALYSE -- Scientific tenn of
the The various consticonstiits component component parts. The into its the whole
into tuents been scientifically scientifically analysed. food have often been
tueats of food ANAPHYLAXIS. ANAPHYLAXIE ANApHyLAxE -- Word Word created created by
by Professor discurious phenomenon disdefine the the curious fessor C. C. Richet
Richet to to define covered poisons increase rather than increase rather him: that
that certain certain poisons covered by by him: diminish their action. of an an
organism to their sensitiveness of organism to the sensitiveness diminish the A
minimal dose given to animal 1e a 4 non-sensitised nsn-sensitised animal dose of of
poison given has no while alarming effects in effects are are produced in no
serious serious effects, effects,while an animal dose of a non-fatal dose of has
previously been given a animal that has the the same same poison. This It also also
injeotions. It internal injections. true after after internaI This is is especially
especially true explains certain ofcertain after the the ingestion of that occur
occur after thq disorders disorders that explains the foods. foods. Food people,
following ingestion following the the ingestion Some people, Food anaphylaxis
anephylrxb -- Sorne of honey, chocolate, chocolate, milk, honey, eggs, milk, as
bread, bread, eggs, foods such such as of certain certain foods etc., of the the
nettlenettleoften of eruptions, often to skin skin eruptions, af€ subject either to
etc., are subject either rash or to to asthma, or akin to to asthma, disorder akin
a respiratory respiratory disorder rash kind, kind, or or to to a severe severe
headaches. headaches. The and belongs belongs onp and is a a delicate delicate on~
treatmetrt is The desensitisation desensitisation treatment entirély of medicine.
to the the realm realm of entirely to

stretches almost to the gills. stretches almost It is a food. The has long been
appreciated as as a food. It The anchovy has and its mentioned in the the works
works of of Elien Elien and and Aristotle, Aristotle, and mentioned in (q.v.),
which garum (g.v.), which the used in the the making making of garum viscera
viscera are used Greeks and Romans called 'the most precious sauce'. delicate
flavour Anchovies have have a very very delicate flavour when when fresh, but can
where they are caught. only be eaten fresh in the countries where eate,n fresh
smelt. or smelt. they are are much much tastier When fried they tastier than than
gudgeon or When fried Mediterranean coast from The best best anchovies anchovies
come from the Mediterranean Nice to Catalonia, Catalonia, and are very large in
that region. prepared at home or industrially, are used Anchovy Anchovy fillets,
prepared example. in many dishes, hot and cold; in pizza, for example. offand
Method of preparation. Cut the head off and clean out the of preparatior. flesh is
inside. inside. Wipe the fish without pressing too hard, as the flesh very
delicate. method of of cooking cooking and most most popular method Perhaps Perhaps
the the best best and When they they are frying them them in in olive olive oil.
oil. When fresh anchovies is is frying fresh anchovies (q.v.) fresh sardines (g.v.)
large, aIl for cooking all the recipes given for cooking fresh can anchovies. to
anchovies. can he be applied to found in this Anchovy is mostly prepared in brine,
and is found It can also he be preserved in fonn form in aIl all the markets of
Europe. It oil, oil, or or pickled. r, LA u SILÉSIENNE snfsruNs -- Fillet 6 ANcHoIs
À Ancbovies i la silésienne. silesienne. ANCHOIS Anchovies à for half-an-hour half-
an-hour in and leave them to to soak soak for fresh fresh anchovies anchovies and
white wine. and rub rub in water, water, and roes of 2 2 salted herring in Soak the
soft soft roes salted herring Soak the finely chopped chopped sieve. Add 2
teaspoons finely them a fine fine sieve. thern through through a pur6e parsley.
Thin Thin down down this this purée with chopped chopped parsley. shallot shallot
mixed with were soaked. soaked. the anchovies anchovies were which the with with
the white wine in which arrange dish, and and arrange Spread in an an hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre dish, the mixture mixture in Spread the the Surround the the anchovy
fillets on a criss-cross criss-cross pattern. Surround anchovy fillets on it in a
of boiled boiled mixed salad salad composed composed of fiJlets a border of mixed
fillets with with a border of well dice and and weIl into small small dice potatoes
cut into potatoes and apples, cut and tart tart apples, parsley and of and thin
slices of thin slices seasoned. with sprigs sprigs of of parsley seasoned. Garnish
Garnish with olive sprinkle with with olive lemon serving, sprinkle and beetroot.
Just before before serving, lemon and beetroot. Just oil. oil. anchovy ANcHoIs --
Cut Cut anchovy Ancbovy cer.lApEs AUX Atx ANCHOIS Anchovy canapés. canapcs. CANAPÉS
pieces and slices ofbread of bread on long long slices and arrange arrange them
them on fillets small pieces fillets in srnall a spread with with a and been been
spread which removed and which have have had had the the crusts crusts removed (see
BUTIER). BUTTER). Chop Chop light d'hdtel butter (see Mattre d'hôte/butter light
coating coating of of Maître and (separately) the yolks and (separately) hard-
boiled eggs, and and whites whites of of hard-boiledeggs, the yolks pieces parsley;
arrange between the the pieces little heaps heaps of of these these between sorne
arrang€ little some parsley; parsley. of with curly curly parsley. anchovy. Garnish
Garnish with of anchovy.

(6 inches) ANCHOVY. inches) 15 cm. cm. (6 sea fish, fish, 15 ANcHoIs -- Small Small
sea ANCHOVY. ANCHOIS long. ms a green colour a latpr tu turns colour which which
latpr a beautiful is a beautiful green long. Its Its back back is dark the all of
whict! helps helps the of which' greenish blue, almost black., black, aIl then
almost blue, then dark greenish buyer to determine from It can can bedistinguiShed
be distinguished from its freshness. freshness. It determine its buyeito the which
projecting snout, large mouth, mouth, which snout, and and large its projecting
sardine by by its the sardine

Anchovy

and spices: spices : from lrom lefllo paprika;aaniseed, tierbs and juniper berries.
njseed , cayenne, left to righlright -juniper cayenne, berries, cinnamon, cinnamon,
basil, basil, paprika; ajoujoli, coriander; pepper, ginger, ginger, fennel,
coiander; curry, fennel, ajoujoli, curry, caraway, caraway, raz raz el el IJan/OUl,
rosemary; pepper, hamour, rosemary; pepper; Phot. Larousse) sweet pepper; celery,
Lorousse) frron , c1oves, sage (Hédiard. Phal. sweet celery,sa saflron,
cloves,sage(Hidiard.
ANCHOVY ANCHOVY
gall-bladders and and intestines intestinesby pressingwith withthe bypressing gaU-
bladders thethumb. thumb. Put Put theanchovies anchoviesin inlayers layersinto
intoaasmall small barrel barrelwith withsalt saltmixed the mixed powderedbrick;
with red red ochre proportionsare ochreor orpowdered brick; the with theproportions
are66kg. kg. (12lb.) (1lb.) lb.)salt g.(1 powdered brick. saltto lb.)powdered to500
500g. (12 brick.The Thelayers layersof of (2| inches) anchovies should should be
be66cm. cm.(2t inches) thick, anchovies layer thick,each eachlayer (f-inch)layer
separated from from the next by the next byaa2-cm. 2-cm. (i-inch) layerof separated
ofthe the mixed salt saltand and brick dust. brickdust. mixed When the puton
thebarrel barrel is full, put When isfull, onthe lid,which which must musthave
haveaa thelid, pierced in hole pierced inthe themiddle. hole middle. Pour Pour
aaconcentrated concentrated solution solutionof of seasalt salt on sea on the the
anchovies anchovies through through this thishole. hole.Leave Leave the thebarrel
barrel in the thesun, sun, with with aabrick in brick over over the thehole holein
inthe thelido lid.The Theheat heatof of producesfennentation the sun preserves the
the sun produces fermentation which which preserves thefish fishand and quality,
and ensures their ensures theirkeeping keeping qua!ity, andthe thebrick brickover
overthe thehole hole preventsthe prevents thebrine brine from from evaporating.
evaporating. When When the degree of fermentation is thedegree offermentation
isconsidered consideredsufficient, sufficient, putaacork remove remove the thebrick
andput brick and corkin inthe holein thehole inthe thelido lid. Anchovies preserved
in Anchovies preserved in brine brine can can be usedas ashors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre
beused preparations. and and for for other other preparations.
p,l,uprnrrEsD'ANCHOIS RoUed Rolled ancbovies anchovies à A la Ia Talleyrand.
Talleyrand. PAUPIETTES D'ANcHors À A LA u TALLEYRAND rx.lryRAND -- Trim Trim and
and flatten flattenthe thefiUets. fillets.Stutf Stuffthem them with pur6e made with
aa purée pickled tunny (tunafish) made of of pickled fish) mixed tunny (tuna mixed
with with finely finely chopped chopped truffies truffies and and bound bound with
with aa tablespoon tablespoonof of mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Arrange Arrange the and
roUed rolled anchovies the stutfed stuffed and anchovies on onthick thickslices
slices of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg. egg. Put Put them them on on an anhors-
d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish dishand andsursurv.) of round (q.v.) round them with
aachiffonade chffinade (q. them with of finely lettuce, finelyshredded shredded
lettuce. Decorate Decorate with with slices slices of lemon and and beetroot, of
lemon beetroot, and and sprink1e sprinkle with with olive olive oil. oil.
pAuprETTEs D'ANCHOIS p'.LNcHors À RoUed Rolled anchovies anchovies à i la la
tartare. tartare. PAUPIETTES ALA r,c, TARTARE rARrARx -- Trim Trim and and flatten
flatten anchovy anchovy fillets. fillets. Stuff Stuff them them with grated
horseradish puree of with a a purée of grated horseradish which which has has been
been kneaded kneaded with with butter. butter. Put Put the the roUed rolled
anchovies anchovies on rather thick on rather thickslices slices of of cooked (cut
with cooked beetroot beetroot (cut with fluted fluted cutters) cutters) and and
arrange arrange them them on on an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish.
Decorate Decorate with with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and
capers, eggs and capers, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with olive olive oil. oil.
pAuprErrEs RoUed Rolled anchovies anchovies with with bard-boiled hard-boiled eggs.
eggs. PAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors AUX Aux OEUFS oEUFs DURS DURS -- Trim Trim the
anchovy fillets the anchovy fillets and and shape (canned or shape them them into
into rolls rolls (canned or bottled bottled anchovies anchovies may may be be
used). used). Arrange Arrange them them in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish,
dish, decorate decorate with with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs,
parsley and eggs, parsley and capers, capers, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with
olive olive oil. oil. Soused Soused anchovies. anchovies ANCHOIS ANcHors MARINÉS
umrNfs -- Clean g. (1 (l lb.) Clean 450 450 g. lb.) fresh fresh anchovies.
anchovies. Lay Lay them plate, sprinkle them on on a a plate, sprinkle with with
salt, salt, and and leave leave to to souse souse for for 2 2 hours. hours. Dry
just Dry the the anchovies, anchovies, and and fry fry them them in in smoking
smoking hot hot oil oil just long enough enough to to stiffen stiffen them. put
them Drain, put them. Drain, them into into an an earthenearthenware dish, dish,
and and cover with a prepared in cover with a marinade marinade prepared in the the
followfollowing manner: manner: Heat the oil in which the anchovies were cooked
(adding the oil in which the anchovies were cooked (adding 5 5 or or 6 6
tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh oil). Fry a oil). Fry a finely finely
sliced sliced mediummedium-

Anchovy canapés canap6s Anchovy

Anchory fillets. fillets. FILETS FTLETs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors -- Desalt Desalt the
anchovies Ancbovy the anchovies (that is, and trim trim them them (that is, remove
remove bones and skin). and bones and skin). Wipe Wipe these these fillets with
with a a c10th and cut into 20r cloth and cut into 2 or 3 lengthwise. fiUets 3
strips strips lengthwise. (Canned fillets fillets may may be be used.) used.)
(Canned Arrange the the fiUet fillet strips strips decoratively Arrange
decoratively in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. Garnish Garnish with yolks
and with yolks and whites dish. whites of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs,
chopped separately, separately, and and chopped parsley and chopped parsley chopped
and capers. capers. the fiUets fillets with with a a few Sprinkle the few
tablespoons tablespoons of of olive olive oil. oil. The arrangement of porcelain,
cut-glass anchovy fiUets The of anchovy fillets in in porcelain, cut-glass or
silver silver hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dishes or dishes lends lends itself itself
to to aa variety variety of of artistic expression. expression. Slices quartered
lettuce artistic Slices of of lemon, lemon, quartered lettuce hearts, sm small
hearts, ail gherkins cut cut in in various various shapes, shapes, beetroot betroot
cut cut in in rounds or crescents, crescents, etc., can also also be etc., can be
added added to ingredients to the the ingredients mentioned above. Anchory fillets
Ancbovy filleb à I la la suédoise. suedoise. FILETS FTLETS D'ANCHOIS o'^LNcnors À A
LA r.L suEoolsr SUÉDOISE prepared in anchovy fillets, fillets, prepared in the the
usual usual - Arrange the anchovy manner, on manner, on a foundation of a
foundation of salad salad composed composed of of tart tart red red apples and
cooked cooked beetroot, cut in small small dice, dice, seasoned seasoned with with
oil, vinegar, salt and and pepper. Surround Surround tbis garnish of this salad
salad with with a a garnish little bunches of little bunches of of parsley, yolks
and parsie y, yolks and wbites whites of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, and
and cooked cooked truffies, ail all chopped separately separately and and arranged
arranged in in individual individual groups. Sprinkle Sprinkle with a a few few
tablespoons tablespoons of oil. oil. Anchovy toast. Anchovy toast. TOASTS rolsrs
AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Garnish Garnish lightly lightly pieces of bread with
toasted pieces with fillets fillets of of anchovies. anchovies. Sprinkle Sprinkle
them with breadcrumbs which have been fried in in butter, and and brown in the oven
oven for a a few minutes. Fried anchovies. ANCHOIS .cxcHols FRITS FRrrs and prepare
fresh Clean and fresh - Clean anchovies. Dip them in anchovies. in milk, milk,
drain drain them, them, and and roll roll them them in in flour, keeping the fish
fish separate as as far far as as possible. Fry them in irr very very hot fat. fat.
Drain, Drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine, fine, dry salt. Pile them
on a a heated plate and and garnish with fried fried parsley and lemon quarters.
Medallions of ancbovy Medalliore anchovy à I la niçoise. MEDATLLoNS D'ANCHOIS
D'ANcHors nigoise. MEDAILLONS À u LA utgotsn NIÇOISE - Spread A Spread slices
slices of crustless crustless bread bread with with butter butter that has been
mixed with thick tomato purée. pur6e. Put a a slice slice of of hard-boiled egg on
each slice, hard-boiled and a roUed rolled fiUet fillet of anchovy slice, and egg.
on the egg. these medallions with stoned Garnish these stoned black black olives,
olives, and and a little !ittle chopped parsley. Arrange sprinkle with a Arrange
them them on on a a paper doyley, and add a further garnish of parsley. of curly
curly parsley. poRTUcArsE Portuguese anchovy ancbovy fillgts. fiUets. FILETS
Portuguese FTLETS D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors PORTUGAISE Prepare desalted desalted
anchovies anchovies in fillets, fiUets, and cut Prepare cut them into thin them
into thin be used. used. Canned fillets may may be strips. Canned fondue of of
tomatoes (see Prepare a a fondue (see TOMATO), TOMATO), cooked cooked it in in
anhors-d'euvre an hors-d'œuvre dish. lightly in oil, and and put it lightly dish.
Arrange Arrange the the pattern on on top top of of the fondue. Decorate fillets in
a a criss-cross criss-cross pattern fillets the fondue. Decorate capers, chopped
chopped parsley, slices slices of of peeled peeled lemon, with capers, lemon, and
and of olive olive oil. oil. sprinkle with with a a few tablespoons tablespoons of
sprinkle Preserved anchovies. ancbovies. coNsERvE CONSERVE D'ANcHors D'ANCHOIS -
This must be be heserved This must - the made with with freshly freshly caught
caught anchovies. anchovies. Remove Remove the heads, the made heads, the

Medallions la niçoise Medallions of of anchovy anchovy à d la nigoise

25 25
Barquettes andtartlets and tartlets with witb fruit fruit fillings fillings (Po
(Potel and Chabot. Chabot. phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse) Barquettes tel and
ANCHOYADE
a sliced sliced carrot in in the the oil. oil. Add Add 3 unpeeled sized onion and a
unpeeled (6 tablespoons, garlic, 1 cloves of garlic, I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons,
scant ! cloyes l cup) vinegar, j cup) water. Season I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t
and 1 Season with fine and j bay leaf parsley, 1of thyme, 3 sprigs parsley, leaf
and salt, and add a sprig of peppercorns. crushed 1teaspoon cru shed peppercorns. I
teaspoon for 10 l0 minutes. Pour Ppur the mixture, mixture, still boiling, on the
Boil for anchovies. Leave to souse souse for 24 hours. anchovies. garnished in an
an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish dish garni slices of Serve in shed with Serve
with slices lemon.
(Provengal eookery) preparation based ANCHOYADE cookery) ANCHOY ADE (Provençal - A
preparation paste. Pound on anchovy paste. the anchovies anchovies in a mortar, on
Pound the in a mortar, add paste on and a a few olive oil oil and few drops drops
of vinegar. Spread olive Spread this this paste home-made bread, and sprinkle with
finely chopped of home-made slices of chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, onion,
chopped and a a little egg, and onion, little olive olive oil. Brown in the oyen.
Brown oven. I la niçoise nigoise Anchoyade à Anchoyade - Add chopped shallot and
parsley to anchovy paste, moisten with olive oil, and spread to paste, moisten oil,
and spread this mixture on slices of toast, or bread fried fried in oil until until
golden brown. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with chopped
brown. garlic, and and garlic, with olive oil. and then then with parsley and oil.
Brown in in the oyen. oven.

(A V) preparations treated ANCIENNE L') to preparations ANCIENNE (À Name given to -

Name of the old school. school. These These dishes dishes were according to the
precepts of garnishes, and braised braised beef slowly simmered usually mixed
garnishes, simmered characteristic type is Rump of of beef for a long time. The
most characteristic d l'ancienne I'ancienne (see BEEF). BEEF). à applies to dishes
such as pastry shells baked The term also applies baked blind (empty) and and
filled with ragoûts ragofrts of cocks' combs combs and blind quenelles of kidneys,
or or quenelles of truffles truffies and and mushrooms. mushrooms. (For kidneys, d
l'ancienne I'ancienne mode see CHICKEN, and for Escalopes Chicken à VARIETY
l'ancienne see OFF OFFAL of calves' sweetbreads à of AL or V ARIETY d l'ancienne
MEATS.) d l'ancienne l'ancienne also applies blanquettes (q.v.) and applies to
blanquettes The term à of lamb, veal and chicken treated treated in a special
fricassées (q.v.) oflamb, fricassies way.
(A V) preparations ANDALOUSE (À L) Name different prepara ANDALOUSE ame given to
different tions -N mainly by by tomatoes, tomatoes, sweet sweet pimentos
characterised mainly pimentos and sometimes chipolata sausages, aubergines
chipolata sausages, aubergines and and rice rice pilaf. sometimes (See EGGS, d
l'andalouse; I'andalouse; CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken EGGS, Eggs Eggs à (See Chickm à
d I'andalouse.) l'andalouse.)

(Chitterlings) prearc preANDOUILLETTES (Chitterlings) - Andouillettes are pared

like andouilles, andouilles, but smaller intestines are used. There pared are many
varieties, differing for the most part in the spices (old are made made à ri la
ficelle ficelle (old used composition. Sorne used in in their composition. Some are
method); the tripe is cut lengthwise into strips. Others are stuffed with diced or
minced tripe. gastronomic societies, comexclusive of gastronomic One of the most
exclusive prising is the only five five branches, branches, is the Association
amicale des prising only andouillettes (A.A.A.A.A.) amateurs amateurs
d'authentiques d'authentiques andouillettes lovers of authentic andouillettes'.
diploma from 'Society of loyers of authentic andouillettes'. A diploma after. Its
members have opporthis society is much sought after. members have opporthis length
the comparative merits of the comparative merits tunities to to discuss at length
tunities Troyes, Arras, Arras, Cambrai, Fleurie in andouillettes of Troyes, Paris,
Fleurie Cambrai, Paris, Beaujolais, Aubagne, Lourdes, etc. poached and
Andouillettes,like andouilles, are Andouillettes, like andouilles, are sold ready
poached All that needs to be done is to slit the skin and and grill cooled. AlI
them gently. andouillettes. It is a mistake to serve fried vegetables with
andouillettes. A.A.A.A.A. has experimented with creamed potatoes, The A.A.A.A.A.
lentils, red fried onions, raw red red cabbage, creamed creamed celery, celery,
lentils, fried au gratin, stewed apples, etc., but total beans, vegetables au
apples, etc., gratin, stewed beans, agreement has been reached on only one point:
andouillettes agreement a good strong mustard. require a Andouillettes à I la la
lyonnaise lyonnaise Slit the and AndouiUettes the andouillettes and - Slit cook
them in lard or butter. When two-thirds done, add a previously lightly cooked in
finely chopped onion previously in lard lard or finely butter. Simmer until done.
When ready to serve, add a tableand a ofchopped ofvinegar. a tablespoon of spoon of
chopped parsley and vinegar.

(Vlue grass) plant of the genus of plant ANDROPOGON ANDROPOGON (Vlue A genus -A are
known, known, one species of it are Gramineae Numerous species Grarnineae family.
Numerous of which is the sugar cane. Several of the plants are used for infusion.
like tea. infusion,

ANDOTIILLE A large large pig filled with strips strips of ANDOUILLE pig intestine
filled -A chitterlings and and stomach stomach of the same animal. These popular
chitterlings (See are generally served cold, cold, as as an hors-d'œuvre. hors-
d'euvre. (See sausages are PORK.) Large smoked of Vire Vire and as those andouilles
such smoked andouilles such as those of L~lfge are sold sold ready-cooked, readv-
cooked. and Gu6m6n6 are and should should be Guéméné be served thinly sliced.

(Historig gastronomie gastronomic and culinary) ANECDOTES (Historie, and eulinary)

ANECDOTES advised by was advised by his his physician that A convalescent Pompey
was his recovery recovery would would be hastened by following a bis be hastened a
diet diet of by following thrushes. When his servants servants returned with the
news that it thrushes. summer except at of summer was impossible to find any in the
height of Lucullus, the invalid turned to his physician and of Lucullus, the home
of 'What's this? remarked, 'What's survival depend remarked, this? Does Pompey's
survival (Les Classiques de Lucullus is a a glutton?' (Les upon the fact that
Lucullus la table) la
de Duras, Duras, seeing Descartes Descartes tucking into a a good Le duc duc de
jestingly, 'What 'What ho! ho ! Do Do philoday, remarked jestingly, meal meal one
one day, a use for such delicacies?' delicacies?' sophers have a you imagine 'Do
you imagine that 'Why not?' retorted Descartes. Descartes. 'Do 'Why not?' retorted
simply Nature produced the good things of the earth sim Nature ply for the
ignorant?' (Panckoucke)
well known that Mme. de Maintenon was extremely It is weIl poor evening wbile of
her first marriage. One evening while she po or at the time of was entertaining no
roast entertaining sorne some people at at supper and and had had no was lackey, a
witt witty some spirit, sidled up to to offer, her lackey, y fellow of of sorne his
mistress, mistress, who who was was entertaining entertaining the the company with
with her his 'Madame, witty charmingly y conversation, charmingly witt
conversation, and and whispered, 'Madame, you have more story, story, and and no no
one will will notice notice that have no that you one more Beaumelle) roast for
supper.' (La Beaumelle)

The food was very very bad bad at food was at Mme. Mme. d'Aligre's d'Aligre's hou
house se and The 'Really,' remarked M. 'if much discussed. discussed. 'RealIy,' M.
de de Lauraguais, 'if much neighbour's, one did not eat one's own bread as weIl
well as one's neighbour's, here one wou Id die of hunger.' (Grimm, Correspondance)
would Correspondance) Admiral Russel invited the officers and and crews of One day
AdmiraI his fteet fleet to He had had a a marble marble basin bis to drink punch
with him. He for the the middle the occasion in specially constructed for middle of
a in the magnificent which he he ordered to be poured six magnificent garden, into
which (brandy), six hundred bottles of hundred bottles of Cognac (brandy), rum,
twelve twelve hundred bottles of Malaga, four tons of boiling
Vire and and Guéméné andouille (Larousse) Vire Gu6m6n6 andoujlle

26
ANECDOTES
water, water, the Ihe juice of two two thousand six six hundred hundred lemons, six
hundred pounds of the best Lisbon sugar and two hundred grated grated nutmegs.
nutmegs. A young young man man representing representing Hebe Hebe rowed round
round the Ihe basin basin in a small small mahogany mahogany boat, boat, filling
filling the Ihe cups of more more than six thousand thousand drinkers drinkers
seated seated in an an amphitheatre amphitheatre of benches benches round the
basin. (Ivrogniana)
Heliogabalus rus parasites parasites to meals meals of Heliogabalus used used to
entertain entertain his
grass, and was wont wonl to cover coyer his rus table with embroidered or all the
dishes tapestry tablecloths upon upou which wruch were worked worked ail

uninspired uninspired for a gastronome of his calibre: 'The difference between

between her and la Brinvilliers Brinvilliers is in their intention.' intention.' By
skillful skillful grafting a gardener gardener from Montreuil Montreuil succeeded
sucœeded in propagating propagating a most exquisite variety variety of of peach.
peach. He desired desired to 10 present the fruit fruit in homage to 10 Louis
XVIII, XVIII, but before before exposing himself to to a a test test upon which
which his rus reputation so 50 The latter, much much depended, depended, he he
decided decided to to visit visit M.P.R. M.P.R. The stretched stretched out ouI in
in his his armchair, armchair, legs legs crossed crossed and and hands hands
clasped, c1asped, prepared himself himself in gentle gen tle contemplation con
templation to deliver him. The the important important yerdict verdict that was was
expected of ofrum. The gardener silver knife. requested requested a a plate piate
with a a silver knife. He cut cut the the precious peach in quarters, quarters.
speared one of of these with the point of of the saying, knife knife and and
gravely pushed pushed it it into into M.P.R.'s mouth, saying, 'Taste the juice!'
juice!' His eyes eyes closed, closed, M.P.R. M .P. R. tasted tasled the juice juice
without uttering a a word. The The gardener observdd observed him, him, his of two
or three eyes clouded with anxiety. After an interval of minutes, of his minutes.
those of ms mentor mentor opened. opened. 'Good, very good, good, my had time
friend,' friend,' were were the the only only words words he he had time to to
utter. utter. Imquarter was advanced like the first, mediately, the second quarter
the second was advanced first. confident tone, and more confident tone, comand the
the gardener, in a a firmer, more same manded, 'Tagte 'Taste the flesh'. There
followod followed the sa me silence, gourmet. This on the part of the learned
gourmet. the same gravity gravit y on time the movement of his mouth was more
pronounced, pronounced, for for nodded rus his head. 'Ah, 'Ah, very good, he was
chewing. At last he uodded wa~ chewing. of very good!' You You are are going to
think think that the superiority of judged and that no more remained to be the
peach had been beenjudged 'Savour slioe followed said? Not at all! The third tmrd
slice followed in its ils turn. tum. 'Savouf the gardener. The aroma was found the
aroma!' aroma!'continued continued the found and the of the juice to worthy of to
be be worthy juice and the flesh. ftesh. Whereupon Whereupon the gardener drew
rumself himself up to his gardener rus full height to present present the last
quarter. His His face, flushed, glowed quarter. face, slightly flushed, g10wed with
with pride and satisfaction: 'Taste the whole!' His triumph was complete.
satisfaction: him moist-eyed and and towards him and carne came towards M.P.R. M.P.
R. tasted tasled it, it, and friend, it it is hand effusively. 'Ah, my friend, his
hand smiling. He grasped his perfect! 1 compliments.' I offer you my heartfelt
compliments.' perfeet! night at one of of a number of elegant Fontenelle dined
dined each mght houses, a fact that caused Piron to to remark remark upon upon
seeing the hou ses, a fact Ihat one day day achis window doyen of of the the
AcadCmie Académie passing passing his window one doyen I have seen retinue: 'That
is the first time 1 his retinue: companied by rus out!' intending to dine out!' M.
de Fontenelle leave home without intending battle, Artaxerxes, king of Persia,
having been defeated in baille, during the was constrained to eat dried figs and
barley bread durillg ye gods,' he 'O ye fare excellent. excellent. '0 retreat. He
found round this this rough fare I have denied myself myself up to now by 'what
pleasure 1 exclaimed, 'what tastes!' over-fastidious in my tas being over-
fastidious tes !' Montmaurwas noisycompany daywith eating one day Montmaur was
eating with a large, noisy company gentlemen!' he singing friends. friends. 'Hey
there, there, gelltlemen!' and singillg of coughing and pray, eise called out, 'A
lillie little silence, else how how are are we we to to know out, 'A silence, pray,
called (Menagiana) what we are eating.' (Menagiana) Marshal Albert immediately
immediately felt ill ifwild if wild boar or suc sucking king pig appeared on the
the table. Erasmus had had only only to fish to to sme]] smell fish to become
feverish. Erasmus placed apples llear anyone placed near Duchesne, Duchesne,
secretary secretary to When anyone Frangois 1, I, blood blood poured from from his
his nose. François

appeared at that ought to to have have appeared al the the different courses.
courses. At other other times times he tantalised their Iheir gaze gaze with
paintings paintings of of various various them everything everytrung they could
wish foods, seemingly offering thern for, yet leaving them ravenously hungry.
hungry. (Lampride)

M. le pr6sident président B. gave a regular weekly dinner; splendid wines, cuisine

worthy of an archbishop, archbishop, and wit table, fine wines, worthy of a member
of l'AcadCmie l'Académie frangaise'of française 'of the fortyfort yfirst chair'. An
old and faithful servant charge of servant was put in charge the cellar, to offer
the various cellar, and was was also also commissioned 1O wines to the guests. He
acquitted himself himself of this task with a dignified air, though intonations
discreet and dignified intonations of of an amorous tabby-cat crept into his voice
each each time he he announced the Ihe tabby-cat wines - the na me and and the
patent of nobility of these great wines name the patent glory of France. He
announced with particular fervour a glory certain cerlain vin vin de fond. fond.
When he he said he gave the said 'Vin de fond' he his mouth, so impression that was
roHing rolling it around that he he was around in in his gounnets allowed his that
even the least enthusiastic of the gourmets that rus fiIled. However, this glass to
be filled. trus wine, wine, so brilliantly brilliantly presented, presented, gave
little pleasure to Ihose il. As a rule Ihey little pleasure those who tasted it.
they pulled faces while drinking vdn wry faces vin de fond. fond. r,s this 'Tell
me, what is this vrn vin de fond?' Mme. la pr6sidente présidente B. 'Is there it in
asked her her sommelier sommelier one one day. day. 'Is there much asked much of it
in the cellar?' cellarT an air the servant with with an air of of mystery,
'Madame,' replied replied the 'there is enough enough to last for ever.' still
looking perplexed. 'Ah!' sa id Mme. de B., stilllooking 'Ah!'said 'I make it it 'It
is quite simple,' is quite sommelier. '! continued the 'It the sommelier. simple,'
continued myself the boules. bottles. It is quite good enough rnyself from the
dregs of Ihe prepared to drink without knowing for people who are prepared knowing
what difference between they are drinking and who cannot tell the difference
Bordeaux-Lafite.' a Clos-Vougeot and a Bordeaux-Lafite.' vm defonddisappeared the
vin de fond disappeared from From that day onwards the (J. Richard, the table
ofM.Ie of M. le pr6sident Richard,,l'Epoque) président B. (1. l'Époque)

history was The man with the the most voracious appetite in hislory
successor of Alexander Severus the Emperor Maximin, Maxiinin, successor of
Alexander the Emperor

(Marcus AureIius). Aurelius). He went to to the the extent of consuming (at and an
an amphora of an ordinary meal) meal) fort forty meat and Y pounds of meal an
aocording to sorne, twenty-eight French wine; that is is to say. say, according
some, twenty-eight (EncyclopCdie méthomCthootlers, thirty-six. (Encyclopédie pints;
according to to others, dique) 0'93 of a a litre. litre. Note. A pint in in Paris
Paris was 0·93 NOIe. serving honour of serving had the the honour landlord of a a
village inn had The The landlord that he he broke broke his an occasion occasion
thal II with with an an egg egg on on an rus George George II journey there, guinea
in in payment. joumey there, and and asked one guinea His His Majesty smilingly
smilingly remarked: 'It seems scaroe hereabouts.' 'It seems eggs are are rather
scarce the the eggs the innkeeper, 'not 'not the replied the 'Oh no, sire,' sire,'
replied 'Oh no, - the kings.'

happy and A mosl and factious and Oh, happy and un unhappy cooks! A most faclious
Oh, happy cooks! detestable race, according to to Hegesender. detestable gave the
freedom The Athenian Athenian government gave freedom of the city city 10 to The a
certain certain Cherips invented an excellent Cherips because his father had
Învented a ragofit. trufred ragoût. truffled a town town to to with a a dinner,
presented a Anthony, weil well pleased wilh his his cook. Mme. Henaultmade
President Henault President made the following remark about Mme. and was far far
too too unrefined and du du Deffand's cook cook whose cuisine was
27

to Furetière, Furetidre, in in the the chapter devoted devoted to to large

According to appetites: appeliles: 'I have seen eat a a loin of veal, a capon, a
brace of seen one man eat capon, a of '1 woodcock and and a a mountain mountain of
bread help. bread without any any help. 'The ballet so Aglais, who who lived lived
two two hundred hundred or or so ballet dancer dancer Aglaïs, 'The supper she she
would would Christ, was was so greedy that for supper years before Christ, and a
dozen bread, and meat, and and a doze'n loaves of bread, ten pounds of meat, eat
ten eat six pints of wille. wine. the equivalent equivalent of six drink the five
day ate ate for lunch five Claudius Albinus one day 'The Emperor Claudius peaches,
ten a hundred melons, a hundred peaches, ten melons, hundred figs, figs, a a
hundred hundred gapes. forty-eight oysters oysters and and many grapes.
beccaficchi, forty-eight
ANETHOLE
'The Crotonia ate 'The athlete Milon Milon of ofCrotonia ate a whole ox after
having carried it for a considerable length of of time on his shoulders. shoulders.
'The 'The Emperor Maximin became became so so fat fat through through overeating
that he he used his wife's wife's bracelets bracelets as rings. 'An Phagon ate, 'An
actor actor by by the the name name of ofPhagon ale, in the presence of of the
Emperor Emperor Aurelius: Aurelius: a wild boar, a a sheep, a hundred round loaves
loaves of of bread, bread, and a sucking pig. He washed washed it down down with
twenty-four twenty-four measures of of wine.' (Les Classiques de la table) table)
Louis Louis XIII xm - He was excellent excellent at at preparing eggs and and did
so in of ways: ways: perdus, perdus, poached in black butter, hardhardin a variety
variety of boiled up with bacon bacon (one of of his his inventions), inventions),
boiled and chopped up etc. etc. He also also larded larded loins loins of of beef
magnificently, magnificently, using using his his own own vermeil vermeil larding
larding needle. needle. Mme. Mme. de Maintenon Maintenon - She She was was adept at
preparing preparing dainty dishes dishes for for the the king king (still (still of
of good appetite despite despite his his advancing ing years). years). Her Her
particular particular speciality speciality was was dressed dressed cutlets
seasoned seasoned with with parsley, parsley, which whir,h she she wrapped wrapped
in buttered buttered paper paper and and grilled. In other other words words
cutlets en en papillote. Mne. de Conti- She preparing loin She invented invented
the the method of ofpreparing
of of mutton mutton that that bears bears her her name, name, while while Mme. Mme.
de de S6vign6 Sévigné had had a talent talent for for preparing preparing waffies.
waffies. I.oub Louis XVXV - He He loved loved to to make make his his own own
coffee, coffee, and and invented invented an an omelette omelette of of asparagus
tips tips for Mme. Mme. du du Barry. Louis Louis XYI XVI - Like his grandfather,
grandfather, Louis Louis XlV, he had had the the sort sort of of appetite appetite
nothing nothing could cou Id upset; upset; the the very very evening evening before
his trial before the the opening opening of ofhis trial he he ate ate six six
cutlets, cutlets, a a chicken and and several several eggs. Balzac Balzac (Honor6
de) - Even Even if if he he did did not not always eat his his fill fil! (because
(because he he happened to to be be working) working) Balzac Balzac had by by
nature nature an an astonishing astonishing capacity capacity of of absorption. And
And the the menu menu he he orderd ordered for for himself himself alone alone at
at Very's Very's one one day day was was not not excepexceptional: tional: Hors-
d'euvre Hors-d'œuvre Eight Eight dozen dozen Ostend Ostend oysters oysters Twelve
Twelve pri-sali pré-salé mutton mutton cutlets cutlets au au naturel naturel A A
duckling duckling with with turnips turnips A brace of roast partridges A Normandy
sole Sweet Sweet Fruit Fruit Coffee Coffee and and liqueurs liqueurs

'Oh 'all I 'Oh Madame,' Madame,' said said Renan, 'ail 1 wanted wanted was a second
was a helping of peas.' ANETHOLE. .lxErnor ANÉTHOL - Compound of a hydro-carbon a
hydro-carbon (resembling oil oil of turpentine) and a a certain certain
crystallisable crystallisable substance substance possessing a strong aniselike
anise-like odour. odour. The essences of of anise, fennel, Chinese anise and and
tarragon tarragon are mainly formed of of anethole. It is used for flavouring
sweets, sweet dishes, and various liqueurs. liqueurs. ANETHUM. ANETHlJM. ANETTI
ANETH - See FENNEL. ANGEL CAKE - See CAKE.
ANGEL ANGEL FISH FISH (Squatina squatina). squatina). ANGE DE DE uEn MER - A kind
of dog dog fish, fish, with with a a large, flattened flattened body; body; the the
pectoral pectoral and ventral fins fins seeming to to continue continue the lateral
lateralline of the body in ventral line of all aU its thickness. The tail is big
big and rounded, rounded, while while the back is covered with a rough brownish-
green skin marked with small whitish whitish and and grey spots. The belly is is
whitish. Angel Angel fish is is the the intermediary type type between between the
family family of of sharks sharks and that of of ray ray and skates. On the French
coasts, where it fishermen call this fish angelot or angel. ange/. abounds, the
fishermen The flesh of of the the angel fish is quite quite delicate and and
recalls recalls that Ali methods of preparation given for the latter of the ray.
All are applicable applicable to angel fish.

A A FEW FEW GOURMANDS. GOURMANDS. euEleurs QUELQUES cotrnrra,qwDs GOURMANDS-

Angelica Angelica

"0fi-:Tff:f[To*'

Whereupon Whereupon he he slept slept for for two two hours, hours, drank drank
some sorne coffee coffee and and worked worked the the whole whole night night
until until seven seven or or eight eight o'clock o'clock in in the the morning.
morning. Victor Victor Hugo Hugo - The The great great poet poet was was areal a
real guzzler, guzzler, especially especially late not only only ate ate a a cutlet,
cutlet, but but the the bone bone as as well, well, Jate in in life: life: he he
not rn,nrhlrlO" it it loudly loudly between between his his powerful powerful jaws.
Sometimes, Sometimes, crunching to amuse his grandchildren grandchildren after
after a a meal, meal, he would would have have all ail to amuse the brought in: in:
ragofit, ragoût, fish, fish, vegetables vegetables and and dessert. dessert. the
left-overs left-overs brought These put with with seasoning seasoning into into a a
large large salad salad bowl bowl and and ate, ate, These he he put sharing sharing
the the dish dish with with the the enraptured enraptured children. children. He He
called called the the concoction 'daubs'. 'daubs'. concoction LamartineLamartine -
A A thin thin man man who who only liked ice cream. Stendhal -A A fat fat man man
with with a a penchant for for macaroni. macaroni. Stendhal Theophite Théophile
Gautier Gautier -A A delicate delicate palate palate who who did did not not allow
allow himself himself to to be he deceived. deceived. It It was was he he who, who,
at at the the Russian Russian court, court, observed to to the the chef chefthat
thc:.t his his almond almond gflteau gâteau (which (which everyone p\lf'n"... np
observed else adored) adored) was was nothing nothing more more nor nor less less
than than pounded else macaroons. macaroons. 7frlrZola - He He had had a a fondness
fondness for for shellfish shellfish although although he he called called them
'filth'. thern'filth'. Rman Renan - Invited Invited one one day day to to a a house
house where where the the hostess hostess desired desired that that each each guest
guest in in turn turn should should contribute contribute to to the the Renan
persistently persistently tried tried to to intervene intervene during during
conversation, Renan conversation, the course course of of the the meal. meal. At At
last last the the mistress mistress of of the the house house the turned to to him
him and and said, said, 'Now, 'Now, Master Master Renan, Renan, it's it's your your
turn.' turn.' turned

under the common name name of angelica, angelic herb. It is is a under

ANGELICA. ANGELrer.rE ANGÉLIQUE - A A genus of of plants plants of of the the

family ANGELICA. of which which the the prototype is i~ generally known known
Umbelliferae, of

large appearlarge perennial perennial herb herb usually usuaJly grown grown as a a
biennial. biennial. In In appearance it it closely closely resembles resembles cow
cow parsley. parsley. ance Angelico archangelica grows grows wild wild in in the
the Alps. Alps, in in the the Angelica and in in northern northern Europe. Europe.
It It has has long long been been valued valued as as Pyrenees and Pyrenees a
stomachic, stomachic, carminative carminative and and anti-spasmodic anti-spasmodic
stimulant. stimulant. Toa day it it is is cultivated cultivated mostly mostly for
for the the sake sake of ofits roots and and stalks. stalks. day its roots The
fresh fresh stalks, stalks, candied candied in sugar, sugar, make make a a pleasant
pleasant prepreThe Niort angelica, angelica, or or Nevers Nevers angelica,
angelica, or or ChdteauChâteauserve called called Niort serve briand angelica. It
It is is used used by by confectioners confectioners and and wine wine and and
briand spirit merchants. me:rcl1arlts. spirit The roots, roots, which which come
come principally principally from from Bohemia, Bohemia, are are The wrinkled, grey
outside outside and and white white inside. inside. They They are are deceptive
deceptive wrinkled, to the the palate: sweet sweet at at first, first, producing
producing an an acrid acrid and and bitter bitter to after-taste. after-taste.
roots also also contain contain a a volatile volatile oil, oil, angelicine,
angelicine, angelic angelic The roots The acid, tannin, tannin, malic malic acid,
acid, pectic pectic acid, acid, the the malates, malates, etc. etc. They They acid,
very strong strong digestive digestive and and anti-dyspeptic an'ti-clvsnelltic
properties. nr()nprtll'<: possess very is for for this this reason reason that that
they they are are used used in the production of It is meliss cordials cordials and
and other other liqueurs liqueurs such su ch as as chartreuse, chartreuse, meliss
gin and and English English bitters. bitters. vespetro, gin liqueur. LreuEUR
LIQUEUR lNo6r.reue ANGÉLIQUE - Put Put I 1 kg. kg. (2* (2! lb.) lb.) Angelica
liqueur. cut into into small small pieces, and and I 1 litre litre (lf, (11 pints,
pints, stalks, cut angelica stalks, generous quart) quart) brandy, brandy, in in a
a bottling jar. jar. Macerate Macerate for for a a generous

28 28
ANGLET
month. monlh. See that the jar jar is 1S hermetically hermetically sealed. Expose
it il to the sun whenever whenever possible. Add from 600 to 10 800 g. (1* to l*
lb.) lump lump sugar sugar dissolved in ln very little !iUle water. waler. Press
the whole whole through a silk or fine muslin sieve. Leave to ta stand for a few
hours. hours, then lhen filter filler the liqueur through soft paper. Decant into
ioto bottles, boules, cork and seal. Candied angclica. lNcfrrqun ANGÉLIQUE coNFrrE
CONfJTE - Cut the angelica angelica Candied angelica. stalks 15- to ta 20-cm. 20-
cm. (6- to 10 8-inch) pieces pieces and soak in cold stalks into înto 15water.
Plunge them into a pan of boiling water water until unti) the pulp begins to give
slightly when pressed with the fingers. fingers, Cool all under a cold tap, tap.
drain and peel, taking care to remove aIl stringy parIs. stringy parts. fot 24
Macerate I cup sugar sugar to la I 1 cup water for Macerale in a syrup of 1 hours.
c (215'F.) Drain. 102'C. (215 Lü 102°C. F.) and pour it il over Drain, Boil the
syrup to of angelica. angelîca. the pieces of Repeat this operation operation three
days running. On the fourth day cook the syrup to small. pearl, i.e. 10 small i.e.
105"C. (221"F.). Put angelica into this syrup and bring it to bring il la the boil
several times. lhis syrup Remove the pan from the fire and let it stand. stand.
Drain the on a a sieve. sieve. Lay the pieces of angelica angelica on Lay them them
on a them to dry in a marble sprinkle with fine sugar and put marb!e slab, sprinkle
pullhem very slow aven. oven. Store in tins.
pepper pepper before before being being put put under under a grill. grill. It lt
must be be cooked on a low flame. t'lame. When grilled. such such as as When fish
fish with a delicate flesh fiesh is being grilled, whiting, fresh fresh sliced cod,
etc., elc., it should be be dusted dusted with flour t'lour and and sprinkled
sprinkled with with melted melted butter butter or or oil oil before before putting
pUlling it it under the the grill. grill. Grilled Gri/led fish fish d à I'anglaise
l'anglaise is is served served simply siroply with with melted butter or Maite
MaÎtre d'hitel d'hôtel butter bUller (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) and (optionally)
potatoes, boiJed. pota loes, either steamed or boiled.

AI\GLAISE (Custard) - Variously flavoured custard made of yolks of egg, sugar and
milk (see CREAM, Custard cream).
ANGLER ANGLER (U.S. (V.S. AI\GLERFISID. ANGLERFISH). LorrE LOTTE DE MER, VIER,
BAUDRoIE BAUDROŒThis fish is extremely ugly. Its foreparts are are very very broad
while Its head, which is its hind-quarters hind-quaners are exceedingly narrow. ILs
enormous, is very flat fiat and spiky. Along its ilS back it has three very mobile
mobile filaments. The first and largest largest ends in a sort of all can lash a
spearhead, flail, shaped like spearhead, which flail, shaped like a wh.ich can !ash
out out in in ail as bait to directions. Il is believed that thal the angler uses
this trus as directions. It attract a ttract its i ts prey. The skin skjn of or the
angler is olive brown along the back and grey on the belly. It is flabby entirely
without t'labby and sticky stick y and entirely similar to the scales. covered with
bony bouy filaments similar scales. Instead Instead it il is covercd spikes on its
head. bouillabaisse The mainly as an ingredient ingredient of of bouillabaisse The
angler angler is used mainly (q.v.) it can be cooked in the same (q. v.) and other
fish nsh soups, but bu! il way as cod or other large sea fish. should be In manner
it it is is prepared, prepared, angler should ln whatever whatever manner since it
is a a somewhat tasteless.fish. rather highly seasoned, sinec tasteLessfish. not
widely In the whi1e plentiful, plentîful, is îs not the U.S.A. the the anglerfish,
while steaks can can be in the marketed. be used used in marketed. White White fish
tîsh fillets flilets or or steaks following recipes. DE MER A L'ANGLAISE
t'lNcr.ltse - FiJlet Fillet Angler LorrE DE à I'anglaise. l'anglaise. LOTTE MER À
Angler i Flatten them angler, and trim trÎm the fillets. fl1!ets. Flatten a medium-
sized raw angler, and season with salt and pepper. Dip them in egg and breadServe
crumbs and fry Ihem them in butter, browning on both sides. Serve crumbs dhdtel
buller a long dish, covering the on a butter on the fish with Maitre d'hô/el (see
BUTTER). Boild algler with various sauces. LorrE Boiled LonE DE MER BoITILLIE
BOUlLLlEa courlcourtSkin the angler and cut it into thick steaks. Cook in a (q.v.)
(see as for Boiled with any bouillon as Boi/ed cod (see COD). Serve with sauce
suitable for boiled fish. sauce nsh. Lorrn DE MER -- Proceed as pflt6. rAre FRorD
DE LOTTE r TÉ FROID Cold angler pâté. for Cold eel pie (see EEL). for nrsrs DE DE
LOTTE Lorrr DE in white winc. wine. FILETS Fillets of angler braised in Trim and
the fillets. AU vrN and flatten Mnn BRAISÉS sRArs6s AU MER VIN BLANC BLANC - TrÎm
fiatten the pepper. Lay them in a buttered baking baking Season with salt and
pepper. (see FUMET) with with white and moÎsten moisten with with Fish tin and FÎsh
fumet fumel (sec tin wine. Cook in a a moderate oven. a long long dish dish wîth
with a a white white wine Drain the fillets. Serve on on a the flUets. Drain (see
SAUCE, White SAUCE, White made from from [he cooking stock stock (see sauce made
the cooking sauce
sauces).
DE MER fRITE FRIrE fillets of angler Fried angler. LonE LorrE DE - Cut the flUets
in in milk. milk, flour lightly, lightly, and and dcep-fry deep-fry in into strips.
strips. Dip Ihem them in inro boiling faL fat. garnished with a napkin, napkin,
garnished with Drain and and season. season. Serve Serve on on a parsley and fried
parsley and Icmon. lemon. frîed is Lorrn DE MER pflt6. P,\TÉ nArE CHAUD cHAUD DE DE
LOTTE angler pâté. Hot al1gJer - This pie is stuffing, in in or whiting sluffing,
from fillets fillets of angler, with pike or made from (see EEL). Hot eel pie (see
the same same way as as HOl the DE LOTTE LorrE DE DE MER MER -- CU! the MATELoTE DE
Cut the angler. MATELOTE Matelot of angler. matelote in white white fillets of
angler angler into squares. squares. Cook them them en malelote fillelS (see EEL).
matelote (see EEL). red wine, as as for for Eel en en male/ole or red

re ANcELIeUE oE A LA Niort angelica il i la la sybarite. ANGÉLIQUE DE Ntonr N10RT À

quality butter dozen or so best best quality syBARrrE SYBARITE - Have ready ready a
a dozen or so dish filled with sticks of candied hol), a fruit dish ftlled Wilh
brioches (kept hot), brioches.(kept angelica, a bottle angelica cream, a acarafe of
iced water, a bOUle of carafe of of angeljea rlOl'lrl'III'C;: packet of Egyptian
cigarettes. Light cigarette, sip a a mouthful of îced iced water, crunch a Lighl a
cîgarelte, piece of of Niort angelica angelica with a piping hot bite of brioche,
sip, breathe and savour savour a few drops ofangelica liqueur, and then repeat the
whole process. proccss. If, according to A to whom whom we this Austin de Croze,
Croze, to we owe [rus ustin de a fresh, fresh, light perfume recipe, the the room
room is is sprayed with with a (verbena or an idea of of the or southernwood) one
one can can have have an sybaritism. blessed joys of sybaritism. blessed
ANGELS ON ANGELS ON HORSEBACK (English cookery).

A ANGES À ANGES

CHEvAL hors-d'euvre is prepared in the following cHEvAL - This hot hors-d'œuvre

manner. Take plump oysters out of their shells, drain their in a a very very
beards, and wrap each one în and remove liquor aod remove their beards. metal
skewers, on little metal rasher of bacon. thin thin rasher bacon. Thread them on
fingers of of season with salt and and pepper, and grill. Arrange on fingers season
toast. with breadcrumbs which sprinkle with Just Just before before serving,
serving, sprinkle fried in butter. have been fried
a In cookery, the to a AI\GLAISE the term anglaise is applied to ANGLAISE - In per
egg), mixture composed eggs, oi! oil Ci egg), salt composed of of eggs, teaspoon
per mixture $ teaspoon and.pepper. and .pepper. Various ingredients which which
have have to to be be dipped dipped in in breadbreadVarious mixture, and are are
said to be crumbs are first coated with this mixture, 'd l'anglaise'. I'anglaise'.
They are then then sautécd sautOed in in butter or oil, or deepdeep'à fried.

preparations (A L') given to Name given to viJrious various preparations ANGLAISE

ANGLAISE CA - Name (see MUTTON, Leg Zeg of mullon) mutton) or or in water (see
cooked in usually cooked (see CHICKEN, English boiled chicken). in white stock (see
in English boi/ed term'also applies to the following fish: fish poached in This
lermalso grilled or in breadcrumbs; court-bouillon (q.v.); or fried in fish grilled
; fish (see potatoes, boiled in in water or or steamed (sec vegetables, mainly
potatoes, POTATOES, POlafOeS Potatoes li d '·anglaise). l'anglaise). porssoxs
GRILLÉS ffsh à A L'ANGLAISE l'lNcl,tIsr -I'anglaise. POISSONS cnn-rfs fA Grilled
Gdlld f:ls.b i l'anglaise. This method can applied to all fish. fish. The The large
fish fish are are CUI cut can be be applied to ail This slices or the 5ma)] small
ones ones are are cooked cooked whole, after after into slices or steaks, steaks,
the having a few slits in them. The osh, or sliced, sliced, is is slits cut cut in
them. The fish, whole or having a few seasoned with with salt oil or or melted
melted butter and seasoned salt and coated with oîl butter and and
29 29

from Bayonne, Bayonne, 4 km. km. (2* miles} miles) from AI\GLET Town sÎtualed
situated 4 ANGLET - Town here, dry dry and and near the sea. is produced here, sea.
A famous famous white wine is is called called Vin Vin de de sable. sable. heady,
which is Rock salt salt also cornes comes from from Anglet. Rock
ANGoULEnan ANGOULËME

",i :.'-.--:=i:i'

\;3 li t v Ni I ii.xr=;*N= :-:-\\)2----TlaRochell(),

€onqcrvcs dc poisson!,

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p Tripe ri lo Soiatongeoisc. .// , tan,Foute.F,ouo*r

S,-u( \ 'sr,drnsn "" ) p*te.i""""

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pAte

&llkas. Chcifekcs.

&-fotg gus rnd pertrldgc

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ial

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Necterin-cl, Mushroomr

;tft.ii{tidcficgrc' lilr,"N--., ffi;il:',c*tT' .\\ G';,il;;:';y,r '*'?:fiil\,11ff,

[1tfi:l#:i. s a r N r\ o' N\d$:\'' Y'.ANqiqU * g fs N.i(.
F*d;

\-J Shellfish \Sardlne paitCa

hgftir.t

itt'r:;:1,,,...
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t'ry
f;nJ;',fir;"i

"$i:,ffi:-';*g.:ifi:,. iifl
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l"ii,"g",.ut"r,

murton. lam cruchodc. Salt-meadow " Pifulle. Miidilote of cossemns

i n ttt1; s ),3$tl"-.Sf i,i"if,* .;"; "*iirlr g {Ni is a \\\

e
Pdtt d la finc

\\

l:'"' Pons N
Jon

ill#,i'#,l,ffiur

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Vine)'udl

NE GUYENNE

ill sr
11,

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Gastronomic map of Angoumois, Gastronomie map of Angoumois, Aunis and Saintonge

.I,I,IGOULEME A town ANGOULtME - A town in in the the Charente where where famous
brandies brandies are are distilled. distilled. A A noted notOO partridge partridge
pdtd piité is is made made at Angoul6me Angoulême.
P€rigord, Périgord, Limousin Limousin and and Saintonge. Such a neighbourhood
neighbourhood could could not not help help but but turn tum the the inhabitants in
habitants into into gastronomes, gastronomes, considering considering the the
excellence excellence of of its food products. products. Ground Ground and and
feathered feathered game game abound abound in.Angoumois. in- Angoumois. Freshwater
of all Freshwater fish fish of aIl kinds kinds are are to to be be found found in
its Îts rivers; the Touvre, Touvre, which which flows flows past past Angoul€me,
Angoulême, is is still, stiJl, as as Clement Marot Marot said, said, 'paved 'paved
with with trout, trout, edged with wÎth eels ecls and crayfish,' crayfish,' and and
these these delicious delicious fish fish and shellfish are made into into
mouthwatering watering matelotes. matelotes. Various Various species species of of
mushrooms mushrooms are are gathered gathered in in AngouAngoumois. mois. In In the
the quarries quarries around around Angoul6me Angoulême cultivated mushmushrooms
rooms are are grown; grown; the the delicacy delicacy of of their their flavour fla
vour rivals rivais the the famous famous mushrooms mushrooms cultivated cuhivated
in in the the quarries quarries around around Paris. Paris. Cattle Cattle bred bred
in in this this region region produce produce excellent beef. beef. FirstFirstclass
c1ass poultry poultry is is raised raised there, there, Barbezieux Barbezieux
chickens chickens being being particularly particularly esteemed. esteemed. Culimry
Friture charentaise charentaise composed composed of of Culinary ryecialities
speciallties - Friture various various small small fish; fish; cagouilles,
cagouilles, stuffed st uffed or or in in ragofit. ragoût. (By cagouilleswe
cagouilles we mean mean snails. snails. The The inhabitants inhabitants ofCharente
of Charente are are so so fond of them them that that they, they, themselves,
themselves, are are nicknamed nicknamed cagouilfond of lards.) lards.) Tourtiire
(raised pie pÎe containing containing chickar chicken and and salsify); salsify):
Tourtière (raised jugged jelly; preserved jugged hare, hare, to to which which is
is added added redcurrant redcurrant jeUy; preserved duck,which is served served
with with potatoes potatoes sautEed sautéed in in goose goose fat, fat, or or duck,
which is
30 30

LNCOUVIOIS This area is situated between ANGOUMOIS - This between Poitou Poitou and

partridge partridge pdtd pâté of Ruffec, Ruffec, lark pdtds pâtés of Exideuil.
Sausages, Sausages, saveloys, puddings, chitterlings chiflerlings and and other
other 'charcuterie charcuterie sa ve loys , black puddings, are all ail excellent.
excellent. Among the the sweet dishes and and cakes cakes there are marvels,
marvels, a kind of of fritter; cheesecake cheesecake made made of of Ruffec cheese;
chocolate chocolate tartlets tartlets flavoured with brandy. brandy. WinesThe wines
wines of of the the Angoumois Angoumois region are mediocre mediocre Wines - The
and and are are rarely rarely drunk d runk outside the the province. province. They
They are are excellent for for distilling distilling purposes, porposes, however.
Charente cognac is made made from these wines wines (see (see COGNAC). COGNAC).

w:rth cCpes with cèpes sautded sautéed d à la bordelaise; gigorit or lamb's pluck;
stuffed of variouspdtis stuffed cabbage cabbage calldfarie; calledJarée; a
selection selection ofvarious pâtés such as of Barbezieux and as pdti paté de foie
Joie gras gras truffé of and Angoul€me, Angoulême,

tufi

ANGREC ANGREC - A A group group of of plants; plants; some sorne of of the best
known known of which grow in in R€union Réunion Island and Madagascar, others on
the the Cape of of Good Hope Hope and on the the west coast of of Africa. Africa.
The most most important important species is is the Angraeanmfragrans; Angraecum
Jragrons; its leaves the/aham, tea of of R€union Réunion Island, Island, which
which is is leaves furnish furnish the faharn, or tea
widely widely used used in the the same same way way as as China China tea. tea.

ANIMELLES ANIMELLES - This This is is a a culinary term term for the the testicles
testîcles of male male animals, animals, in in particular particular those those of
of rams. rams. In ln the the past, past, animelles animelles were were very very
much much in in vogue vogue in in France, France, Spain and and Italy. Italy. For
For recipes recipes see see OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS, MEATS,
Animelles. Animelles.
AIYISEED ANISEED (Sweet (Sweet cnmin). cumin). ANrs ANIS vERr VERT - Plants Plants
with wilh ovoid ovoid seeds, contracted at at the the top, top, with with a a
ribbed ribbed surface surface seeds, slightly slightly contracted
and and short short stiff stiff greyish-green greyish-green hairs. hairs.

-
ANJOU
proportion of of The proportion several preparations. for several sugar is is used
used for preparations. The of for the preparation it is is intended for When it
aniseed varies. When preparation of (l oz., 3 tablespoons) aniseed are added g. (1
cake,25 aniseed cake, 25 g. (18 oz., g. (18 castor suga If, on on the the other 2f,
cups) 500 g. oz., 2* cups) castor sugar. to to 500 r. If, sponge cakes, cakes,
biscuits, flavour sponge to fiavour hand, it is to to be hand, it is be used used
to go up proportion of aniseed can can go up to custards or creams, the proportion
(18 oz., g. (18 o2.,2* cups) sugar. 500 g. cup) per 500 100 grams (4 oz., i cup) 2*
cups) a fine fine and rub on on a aniseed carefully carefully and Method. Pick over
the aniseed for 12 12 hours. hours. oven for a slow oyen stalks. Dry in a sieve to
remove the stalks. fine sieve sieve to to a fine and sift sift through through a
lump sugar, sugar, and Pound with with lump Pound in the the a very fine powder.
Pound whatever remains in obtain ob tain a sifted. has been been sifted. until the
whole has sieve until jar or and sealed jar or tin, tin, and hermetically sealed
sugar in in a a hermetically this sugar Keep this a dry place. store in a
satisfactory fiavouring flavouring a more satisfactory Aniseed-flavoured sugar is a
Aniseed-fiavoured inrather strong strong and and inwhich is is rather essenc€,
which agent than than aniseed essence, agent flavour. aniseed smell smell than
fiavour. an aniseed clined to have more of an c1ined

Aniseed a. Fruit a. b. Flower

The seeds sold in the shops must be c1eansed cleansed of the soil which often to
them. them. Parsley seed, which seed, with with the the hairs often sticks sticks
to

is sometimes sometimes fraudulently sold pâtisserie anianisold as pdtisserie

removed, is seed. Aniseed is used in confectionery confectionery and and
distilling.
pAINs À (Ahatian pastry). cookies (Alsatian pastry). PAINS A L'ANIS L'ANIs - Mix
Aniseed oookies

g. (18 500 g. (18 oz., 500 12 eggs oz., 2| cups) cups) fine fine castor sugar sugar
and and 12 in a a eggs in copper basin. basin. Beat the mixture with a as for for
an an ordia whisk as nary sponge cake. (18 oz., When the the mixture is g. (18 When
is weil well whisked, add 500 whisked, add 500 g. (7 oz., g. (7 4t cups) cornfiour
cornflour 4| cups) sieved fiour, flour, 200 g. oz., scant 2 cups) (2 oz., and 50 g.
1 cup) aniseed (in grains). Mix weil. g. (2 well. oz,l Drop tablespoons of the a
wetted wetted baking the mixture onto a sheet. Place in a warm place to dry. When
the cookies begin to rise slightly, slightly, bake in a cool oyen. oven. Aniseed-
flavoured Aniseed-flavoured sugrr. SUCRE ANIsf -- Aniseed-fiavoured Aniseed-
flavoured sugar. sucR"E ANISÉ

2i

The best aniseed liqueur. The best aniseed Aniseed-based liqueur. AI\IISETTE
ANISETIE - Aniseed-based is also also anisette is liqueur in France France is made
in Bordeaux. Dutch anisette liqueur repute. held in high repute. held LIQUEURS,
(For the preparation of see LIQUEURS, liqueur see of the the liqueur the
preparation (For Anise or anisette liqueur.)
and harmony where ANJOU of sweetness the cuisine anisine where the sweetness and
ANJOU - Land of natural beauty. beauty. and wines match its natura] and gastronome
and great gastronome a native native of of and a Henry Coutant, a great Coutant, a
Henry its skies, harmon'Its cuisine is as as mellow mellow as as its skies,
harmoncuisine is wrote: 'Its Anjou, wrote: and of Anjou's wittiest wittiest sons
sons and one of as its horizons. Did not one ious as Anjou great gourmet, gounneL
the say that that Anjou humourist Curnonsky, Curnonsky, say a the humourist a great
gastronomy what Racine And Coutant Coutant literature?' And is to gastronomy Racine
is is to to literature?' is went on: on: like the humour humour ofits ofits in
inhabitants: 'As to its wines, are like 'As habitants : wines, they are

" '--01....

MiA I N
'\
••••

'.

Gâteau; croo""ols with :Imonds

(j.me pÔlé. Biscuits anisés

oso?) Coroqns I

dc SoDli

-------: '~·f~os~-~--J- --~-Z-·1:'--r>t" ~~9re

Z
'" .

Craon .····, ..... 51. J~lie" cro~ue_I~' {Rillettes ChâLe ~;;Ùër·"··· "
~ ~{ ~
!ù

Chickens, Rillettes
Eggs

cn ig,3gf
!il'*fil"''-.t

..

Rit/eaux Cider

Chouée,Bijane, f i' l'dhgeiine Rump vea a l' angevine veal Rump 0 of _E-4~-----"
Game, Sausa Sausal ,Fruit wrih ,orrel Shad w,ih rorrel r\ .fl.!nde Shad GERS
~...... Game peltés "'-"

"

p:;

6;i 1
"''''',-

--r.,
Sluffed .h.iI .nd

Ingrandes'

Rlilerre •. Gogue •. Ril/eaux ~luffed artlchoke •. Cremel che .. e Pay's Rot René.
Rend. Plum Plum pÔI" du Ra, Potis du P6tcs lo mancelle. moncelle, S.lmon Srlmon
Parlrldge Partndge ci<ila

//

MAIIE - \t\tN<4,!orRE Fouace, Guuillor"tlNf p Saumur i_lt,jj:t:, -Caillebotte

I ttrrrrtst 5t t vlrLtg, Y.9

P,ke au blanc 1 Shad meun'''e. R,:lerre. • Cr'mel chee.e. C.illebolle che.,e

ô la cha rdon"e~e

<

,,, , , i , ,i
:.

cheese,

lhrte

vuaainsV(
___

" TOU POl POITOU

Gastronomie map of of Anjou Anjou Gastronomic rnap

ec

.. -74/"' ,
~

~_~ ... -

RI/lenes Chouze chee ••

.....

t-":!'!:.~~U/~('L"C:; JUULESUITt( lrI'

I

i,.., iBaW tI

f,';,tt'34
-.A.

31 31
ANJOU ANJOU
light and and sparkling, sparkling, of of incomparable incomparable tas attimes
taste, but at timesalso also light te, but malicious and and treacherous
treacherous towards towards those those who who have have no no idea idea malicious
how to to face face up to their up to their caprices caprices with preparation.
with adequate adequate preparation. how Admirable wines, wines, however, however,
which which merit merit one one of of the the first first Admirable places among
great wines among the the great wines of France.' of France.' places Anjou cattle,
give meat cattle, bred for food, bred for food, give meat of quality. ofexcellent
excellent quality. Anjou The Maine Maine region region cattle cattle are are famous
quality of famous for for the the quality of their their The meat, and and so so
are are the the Cholet Cholet cattle. cattle. meat, pork is Anjou pork greatest
delicacy, is of of the the greatest delicacy, and and various various locally
locally Anjou potted park pork mince, made charcuterie charcuterie -- rillettes,
rillettes, potted mince, andouilles, andouilles, made (U.5. blood) puddings -- are
black (U.S. scrusages, black blood) puddings are admirable admirable sausages, just
the 'bacchic sspurs', as Rabelais Rabelais called called them, them, just the thing
thing to to 'bacchic purs', as make one one appreciate appreciate the the fragrant
fragrant wines wines of of the the Anjou Anjou vinevinemake yards. yards. Anjou
chickens chickens are are tender plump, and tender and and plump, and make make
excellent excellent Anjou fricassées. fricassies. 'The fish fish which which the
generously offers the Loire Loire so so generously offers us us between between
'The Saumur and and Champtoceaux Champtoceaux is is more more delicate delicate
than than anywhere anywhere Saumur else,'declares gourmand. an Anjou Anjou
gourmand. else,' declares an pike are Its pike are among among the the finest;
finest; its its shad, shad, its its tench tench and and its its Its bream know know
no no rivaIs. rivals. For pike and For pike and shad, shad, the the cooks cooks of
bream of passed on Anjou have have passed generation to on from from generation
generation the to generation Anjou the for a a succulent succulent sauce, (white
butter), sauce, beurre beurre blanc blanc (white butter), the recipe for the thste
ofwhich of which is a a fragrant fragrant delight. delight. Tench Tench and and
bream, creamy taste bream, particularly bream, bream, are are cooked cooked chiefly
chiefly with with a a sorrel sorrel stuffing particularly stuffing which makes a
savoury foundation a savoury foundation for for their their flesh. flesh. The Loire
salmon salmon are are famous; famous; they they are are cQnsidered The censidered
the the best best all French river river salmon. salmon. of ail is excellent
excellent in in Anjou. The The whole Poultry is whole worId world knows knows of of
capon de de la fliche and chicken chicken du du Mans. Mans. First-class capon
flèche and First-class game game is is found here. here. also found green cabbages
Anjou vegetable produce is superb. superb. The The green cabbages of of as they
this region, the piochous, as they are are caIled, called, are are weil well known
known and are made made into into those fricassées and which delight delight the
lovers the loyers Jricassles which of country dishes. The Anjou Anjou orchards
produce excellent The orchards produce excellent fruit; fruit; pears, and cider
apples, plums and dessert and and strawberries. strawberries. 'We must 'We must pay
homage homage to the fruits of Anjou, which which form form a a vegetable
aristocracy of province of aristocracy of this this province France,' said of
France,' said gastronome Henry Coutant. Coutant. Anjou cheeses are renowned. The
The famous Angers Angers crémets cremeE (soft fresh cream cream cheeses) should
really be classed classed among among the the sweet courses rather than the
cheeses. These crémets, sweet crimets. which which eaten with are generally eaten
with sugar, sugar, can can also also be be sprinkled sprinkled with with salt and
flavoured with chives.

The The Loire Loire near (FrenchGOI'emmenl nearSaumur Saumur (French

GovernmentTourisi Tourist Office) Offce)

With With food quality available food of of such such quality available the master
cooks themaster cooksand and cordons cordons bleus of Anjou bleus of Anjou are are
naturally naturally noted noted for for their theircuisine. caisine. Culinary
Culinary speciaUties specialities -- Saumur (greaves); Saumur rillettes,'
rillettes; rillons rillons(greaves); potted potted park pork mince,' puddings and
mince; white white puddings and other other charcuterie charcaterie made pork of
from the made from fine pork the fine of the the region. region. Bouilleture, a
kind Bouilleture,a kind of of matelote matelote ofvarious principally fishes,
principally of various fishes, eels; eels; stuffed stuffed shad; shad; bream pike
or bream in in butter; butter; pike or shad shad au au beurre beurre blanc (white
butter); blanc (white butter); matelotes matelotes of perch with offreshwater with
freshwater fish; fish; perch prunes; prunes; fish pdti. stews; eel eel pâté. fish
stews; Rump Rump of pig's fry; of veal veal à gogue; fricassée d l'angevine;
I'angevine; pig's of fry ; gogue; fricassie of chicken; partridge à (boiled green
chicken; partridge d la la mancelle; mancelle ; chouée green chouie (boiled cabbage
cabbage sprinkled sprinkled with green cabbage; with butter) butter);;fricassée of
green cabbage; fricassie of lads with fricassée green sa of cauliflower;
cauliflower; green salads with walnut walnut ail. oil. fricassde of Well-known
Well-known cheeses cheeses include include the the Saumur Saumur chouzé; chouzi;
caillecaillebotte botte à d la la chardonette, chardonette, and the Saumur and the
Saumur and and Angers Angers crémets. crimets. Other Other famous famous dishes
dishes are (similar are bijane bijane or 'magpie soup' or 'magpie soup' (similar to
to the the Saintonge Saintonge broth) broth) -- bread bread crumbled crumbled into
into sweetened sweetened red red wine; roast meat wine; roast (maize meal meat with
with hot hot wine; wine; millière milliire (maize and rice rice meal and porridge);
porridge); fouée (a sort girdle cake of fiat flat girdle sort of cake made made of
of bread bread fouie (a dough, (flat cakes dough, spread spread with with
butter);fouace butter);fouace (fiat cakes baked baked in in the the

A vineyard vineyard on on the the bank bank of the Loire Loire at Huillé A at
Huill6 of the

32 32
ANJOU ANJOU

Champ/ace '4 LOIP.~ SÙJartlleJemy • S.'{jeorçe~5fL Bra;n·s/./Au/IIIOII Sovennil!~ ~

___- -__ IlIgrolldes • LoPosJo.nmàf! l'turs Monljeau R~c/iefort- 5.' Me/alfle Le
Tl7ourei/ • Cliobonlles -JUr!oJrr. BrIssac • laPommeroye '..St.4UblfldNUlgne)~ • ~
Gellnes ~ C/laudefond' BeaulIeu f'LamIJu; ol'oye .~.f .~~ dlJLalloy "our:rel!
1 . .• ~'l Q"\ ).. ~ C' • Chavaglles 5Wtlolre <:JO ~;\()\'I' o~f: LeCllo,:p ..
5~/orl!nt. ">r:sq(§#).~<:J IRE 1v foyeroye 110~!lçne·8rlafll! Varratn! \"-t-
Q'I' \.0

c.oi

EAU

x Dt:

Angers

( Map of the principal vineyards vineyards in Anjou ~

Sa mur
cll0;11?
B

li!

-t D V

$l6erJfY7e OOue ..,. ~yo L.h· ~ es ,~ers Nuej! •

. ·Chamoujny

MO~lJil.8{!//ay

:S;Cyr-en·80urq""""""--reZe.

, &"!fs~:e;ç,
8"",/1,,,,,,,\

ayofl

le~uyN-f3ome

oo Pouon,oy

':n:

Bottles Botties and a glass for Anjou wine

of'fouaciers ofLern€ hearth). Rabelais speaks 'fouaciers of Lerné (or Lernay),

sp€aks of Lernay), which shows how long these cakes have of Maine-et-Loire,' which
known. There There are are also also guillaret or échaudé; ichaudi; Angers been
known. gui/laret or been guillaret are and the gui/laret are aniseed biscuits;
prune pie. pie. The fouace fouace and bisaits; prune not delicate pastries; in the
past they used to be sold in the in western western France. Their main main quality
markets and at fairs fairs in was to provoke thirst. Wines Wines - The Anjou wines
include those of the Angers and (which have Saumur regions have a a right right to
to the the appellations appellations Saumur regions (which 'Anjou' and 'Saumur').
'Saumur'). Ch6nin grape. White wines. wines. These are made from the Chénin White
Saumur. Very dry white wines wines with with a a strong Saumur. Very dry strong
bouquet. process of the They stand up They up very very weIl well to to the the
fermenting fermenting process semi-sparkling méthode mdthode champenoise to to give
very very pleasant semi-sparkling grown on the banks of and sparkling sparkling
wines. wines. The grapes are grown Thouet. Brézé, Brezg, the tributary, the Thouet.
the Loire and on those of its tributary, Parnay and Montsoreau Parnay Montsoreau
are three of of the principal vineyards. with a wines with de la la Iniire. Fine,
elegant white white wines Coteawc de Coteaux Loire. Fine, produced here; get dryer
every strong bouquet are produced here; these strong bouquet are these get year.
The best-known are those year. Epir6, Saventhose of Epiré, best-known vineyards are
nidres (which has a right to a special appellation), Rochenières appellation). la
Rocheaux-Moines and and la la Coulée de Serrant, Serrant, both both on on the the
right aux-Moines Coul€e de bank. vineyard that was was preLa Coulée Coul€e de de
Serrant is a walled vineyard chamberlain Perthus Perthus de Brie along sented by
Louis XI to his chamberlain chAteau which has since disappeared. disappeared. with
a château It was was at at la la Roche-aux-Moines, Roche-aux-Moines, on 12L4, that
27 July It on 27 lruJy 1214, that John Lackland was was defeated defeated by
Philippe John by Louis XI, XI, son son of Philippe Auguste. The The vineyard,
vineyard, planted monks of SaintAuguste. planted by by the the monks Nicolas
Nicolas of Angers, dates back to the eleventh eleventh century century A.D. Coteaux
du &t Layon. Coteaux Layon. Liqueur-like aromatic white white wines made from made
from over-ripe grapes ('la pourriture noble' or 'noble t ot', Botrytis cenerea).
rot', cenerea). great liqueur-like The great liqueurJike Anjou wines are at their
best in the Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume appellations. The Bonnezeaux and
Quarts-de-Chaume appellations. mentioning Coteaux de l'Aubance I'Aubance are also
worth mentioning excellent - excellent River Aubance. white wines from the banks of
the River Red wines. The The red red wines wines of Anjou and and Saumur Red wines.
Saumur come from the Cabernet grape. The best known of them (and for good reason)
Saumur-Champigny with with its its exquisite good reason) is is Saumur-Champigny It
was strawberry bouquet and and deep deep ruby ruby colour. colour. It strawberry
was Curnonsky's favourite wine. Rosi The rosés ros6s of Anjou Rosé wines. The Anjou
and and Saumur, velvety or well known and much in demand. They are dry, are weB are
made

grapes. The The Cabernet from the the Gamay, and Groslot grapes. from C6t and
Gamay, Côt rosé ros6 is (as its name indicates) produced exclusively from the
Cabernet grape. all into verse: The Angevin Angevin poet Marc Leclerc has put it
aIl

Voici les les vins du Layon, Beaulieu, Rablay, Touarcé, Beaulieu, Touarc6, Faye,
Doux coum' le miel au rayon, Chauds coum' le soleil qui raye, Voilà Voild la Coulée
Coulie d' Serrant, S avenniC r e s, Saint-Barthélemy, Saint- Bar thC lemy,
Savennières, Qui tiennent tiennent ben aussi leu rang d'La Possotuiire, La
Possonnière, canss d' Avec ceuss Ceux de dc Saumur Saumur et d'alentour, Varrains
ou Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Saint-C yr-en- Bourg, Mont Montsoreau, soreau, Parnay,
Dampierre, gofrt d' pierre, Et leu si plaisant plaisant goût qu'd la L' champigny
Ia couleur couleur L' champigny qu'à Et la senteur des des framboises framboèses Et
l'on I'on n' sait quel est l' meilleur Vin de de tuffeau nffeau ou ou vin
d'ardoèse. d'ardoCse.

Here are the wines of Layon, Touarc6, Faye, Beaulieu, Rablay, Touarcé, Sweet as
honey in the comb, Glowing like the sun's ray, There is the Coulée Coul€e de
Serrant, S avennidres, Sain t- Barthélemy, Savennières, Saint-Barth€lemy, That are
every bit as good Possonnidre As those of La Possonnière Of Saumur and its
neighbours Varrains Varrains or Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Montsoreau,
Dampierre, Montsoreau, Parnay, Dampierre, And the raspberry-scented Champigny
Champigny The colour of rubies Laced with the tang of the soil slate Chalk or sla
te Who can say which is best. Good quality marc brandies (distilled from the husks
of grapes after after the wine has has been made) and and sorne some highly grapes
the wine been made) d'Angers are also proesteemed liqueurs such as Guignolet
d'Angers duced in this region. Segr€ cider, which is excellent. excellent. Finally,
there is Segré

33
ANNA POT POTATOES ANNA ATOES
ANTISEPSIS. ANTISEPSIE nvnsnpsrr - - Method ANTISEPSIS. Method wruch which aims
aims at atthe the preventionof putrefaction or of putrefaction orinfection
infection by prevention useof ofchemical byuse chemical substances. The The salting
salting and and smoking smoking of meatactually substances. actually conconof meat
stitutes an an application application of of antiseptic antiseptic treatment.
stitutes treatment.The Theuse useof of vinegar in in marinades, marinades, and
preserving vinegar and of ofsalt saltor forpreserving alcoholfor or alcohol
purpose.With fruit, also also achieves achieves this fruit, thispurpose. With
exceptions, exceptions, the useof of theuse preservativesfor antiseptics as
generally antiseptics as preservatives forfood foodsubstances isgenerally
substances is practice can condemned. The Thepractice condemned. can be
bedangerous, dangerous, except exceptin inthe the qualified food hands of hands of
gualified chemists,who food chemists, who use, when reguired, required, use,when
selected substances substances which selected which are arestrictly strictly
controlled controlled by byapproappropriate laws. priate laws.
ANTISEPTICS. ANTISEPTICS. ANTISEPTIQUES lNnsnprrer.rEs - - Substances
Substanceswhich whichcountercounterputrefaction, fermentation act putrefaction,
(See PRESERact fermentation and and infection. infection. (See PRESERVATION.)
vATroN.)

for Anna Anna potaloes Casserole for Dotatoes Casserole

pomvrns DE POTATOES. DE TERRE rERRE ANNA ANNA -- A ANNA POT ATOES. POMMES A method
method of of potatoes cut cut in in thin round slices, thin round slices, cooked
preparing potatoes cooked in in butter butter (See POT in a or a a covered a
special special utensil utensil or covered terrine. terrine. (See POTATOES.) in A
TOES.)

(A V) ANVERSOISE ANVERSOISE (À L') -- Method Method of preparing large large and of

preparing and pieces of small small pieces of meat, meat, calves' calves'
sweetbreads sweetbreads and andeggs. eggs.These Theseare are garnished with
garnished with hop hopstaJks potatoes stalks in in butter butter or orcream cream
and and potatoes fried fried in in butter. butter.
AOUDZÉ AOUDZE -- Name given in Name given in Ethiopia Ethiopia to to aastrongly
strongly spiced spiced sauce sauce whichis which is made pimento, ginger, ginger,
cloyes made of of pimento, cloves and and an an aromatic plant somewhat aromatic
plant somewhat similar similar to to thyme, known as thymeoknown as zégakelie.
zigakelie. The The Ethiopians Ethiopians serve serve this this sauce sauce with
with aadish dish which which they they cali call brondo, brondo, of of which which
they they are are very very fond. fond. APÉRITIF pharmacopoeia recognised APERITIF
-- The The old old pharmacopoeia recognised major major bitters (roots of parsley,
fenneJ, bitters (roots of parsley, fennel, asparagus asparagus and and butcher's
butcher's broom) (roots ofmaidenhair and minor minor bitters broom) and bitters
(roots fern, couchof maidenhair fern, couchgrass, grass, thistle, rest-harrow and
thistle, rest-harrow and strawberry-plant). strawberry-plant). The The term term as
as used used today today only only applies applies to to stimulants stimulants of
appetite. of appetite. Apéritifs Aperitifs served greater or served in in cafés
cafts are are drinks drinks of of aa greater or lesser lesser degree degree of of
bitterness, bitterness, variously variously flavoured, flavoured, which which are
are drunk drunk neat or diluted diluted with generally have neat or with water.
water. They They generally have aa strong strong alcoholic alcoholic content,
content, because because the which they are they are the essences essences of of
which composed (which is composed are not soluble alcohol (which are not soluble
except except in in strong is strong alcohol why go cloudy why they they go cloudy
when when mixed mixed with water) and and this this alcohol with water) alcohol
content great extent content to to a a great nullifies the extent nullifies action
of of the the the beneficial beneficial action bitters. bitters. But, (or perhaps
But, through perhaps through through sheer sheer force force of of habit habit (or
through imagination), people think imagination), sorne some people think that have
no that they they have no appetite appetite unless (or apéritifs). unless they they
have have their their daily daily apéritif ap€ritif (or aperitifs). It It is is
this this fact fact which phrase that which has has led led to to the the coining
coining of of the the phrase that if if an an apéritifcan ap€ritif can open open
the the appetite, appetite, it it does does so so with with aa skeleton skeleton
key. key. Be Be this this as as it it may, may, the the apéritif was, and ap€ritif
was, and still still is, is, a a traditional traditional rite rite in in certain
certain circles. circles.

porrauns DE ANNETIE POT POTATOES. ANNEITE ATOES. POMMES DE TERRE rERRE ANNETTE
ANNETTE -Prepared like potatoes, but potatoes should like Anna Anna potatoes,
Prepared but the the potatoes be should be (q.v.). (See (See POTATOES.) shredded
into into fine fine julienne strips shredded strips (g.v.). POTATOES.)

Annona Annona 1. l. Cherimoya Cherimoya 2. 2. BulJock's Bullock's heart heart 3. 3.

Sour sop

ANNONA. ANONE - The annona or custard apple ANNONA. ANoNEapple is fruit is the
fruit of of a family of of trees (Annonaceae) native to to tropical tropical
America America but cultivated cultivated in southern California and and tropical
tropical Asia. The The cherimoya (Annona (Annona cherimolia), one cherimoya one of
of the the most most popular globe artichoke varieties, resembles a a globe
artichoke in in both both colour colour and and shape, with the difference that its
skin is is shiny. shiny. It It has has cream cream coloured flesh, less white than
coloured (Annona than that of the sour sour sop sop (Annona muricata), which is
larger and more is larger more acid in in flavour. flavour. The The sweet sweet sop
(Annona squamosa), which sorne some people say say is is the the true true apple,
is particularly popular popular in custard apple, in the the West West Indies
Indies and and has a sweet, sweet, custard-like custard-like flavour flavour and a
a strong strong scent. Annonas scent. Annonas
are only eaten raw.

vast numbers in in the the English English Channel. in vast Its flesh flesh is is
very Channel. Its very layered. white, and layered. white, The fishing season
mainly January The season for it is mainly January and and February. February. the
U.S.A. hake hake and and cusk cusk (usually sold fillets) are In the sold in in
fillets) are very very to this this fish. fish. similar to For cookery cookery
purposes purposes it it is is treated treated as For (q.v.). as whiting whiting
(g.v.). ANTHRACITE - Coal Coal remarkable remarkabJe for for its its great purity;
one ANTHRACITE great purity; one of the the fuels fuels which which is is used,
used, in in preference preference to to others, others, for heating of for heating
and cooking. cooking. and

ANON - This fish, one of of the the varieties of ANON of haddock, haddock, abounds
abounds

ANTIDOTE. coNrRE-porsoN CONTRE-POISON Substance capable of ANTIDOTE. Substance

capable of neutralising the the toxic toxic properties of of another another
substance, by neutralising substance, by forming with with it it an an insoluble
insoluble non-toxic non-toxic combination. combination. forming 34 34

La Moitte afler a painting by Lancrel an engraving La Partie Partie de de Plàisir,

Plaisir, an engraving by by de de Moitte after a painting by Lancret
APHORISMS APHORISMS AND AND AXIOMS AXIOMS
The The traditional traditional ap6ritif apéritif 'rite' -rite' is is tending
tending to to disappear. disappear. Those Those who who used used to to look look
upon upon it it as an an occasion occasion to to meet meet their their friends or
simply simply as a a form fonn of of relaxation relaxation are are beginning
beginning to to friends or substitute substitute for for this'agreeablefaux this
'agreeablefaux pas pas of of the the pdlate'perhaps pi1[ate' perhaps a a fruit
fruit juice, juiee, or or a a glass glass of of mineral minerai water, water, or -
better betler still stillsimply simply a a glass glass of of wine. wine.
14. 14. A A dessert dessert without wit hout cheese cheese is is like 1ike a
beautiful bea utiful woman woman

with with one one eye. cye.

15. 15. One One can can learn lcam to to cook. cook, but but a a restaurateur
restaurateur is is born. born.

Doctor Doctor Ramain, Ramain, who who calls calls himself himself an an
'independent 'independent gastronome', gastronome', has has selected selected what
wha t he he considers considers to to be be the the best best ap€ritifs and lists
lists them them in in the the following following order: order : apéritifs and L 1.
The The best best vintage vintage brut brui Champagne, served served well weil
chilled chilled and and sparkling sparkling with with tiny tiny bubbles. bubbles.
2. 2. The The still still Champagne Champagne Blanc Blanc de de Blancs. Blancs. 3.
3. A A glass glass of of genuine genuine old old sherry; sherry; or, or, better
beUer still, an an authentic authentîc Chdteau-Chdlon Cbâteau-Châlon yellow yellow
wine wine from from the the Jura. Jura. 4. 4. An An 'Aligot6' 'Aligoté' white white
Burgundy Burgundy (Aligot6 (Aligoté is is the the name name of of the the grape)
grape) blended blended with with a a little little fine fine Cassis. Cassis. 'Kir,'
'Kir,' as as this trus mixture mixture is is called, called, is is a a misnomer,
misnomer, since since it il was was already already being being drunk drunk in in
Burgundy Burgundy in in l9l2,long 1912, long before before the the Alsatian
AJsatian Canon Canon Kir Kir held held office office as as deputy deputy mayor
mayor of of Dijon. Dijon. 5. 5. A A good good quality quality Scotch Scotch whisky
whisky served served neat neat or or with with a a splash splash of of soda. soda.
6. 6. Certain Certain authentic authentic Italian Italian vermouths, vermouths,
alone, alone, or or with with ice, ice, or or with with chilled chilled sparkling
sparkling mineral minerai water. water. 7. 7. One One of of a a small small number
number of of good good dry dry French French vennouths vermouths such such as as
Noilly, Noilly, drunk drunk neat, neat, or or with with sparkling sparkling mineral
minerai water wateror or (wait (wail for for it!) it!) blended blended with with
Casis. Casis. Even Even the the ancient aocient (but (but reborn!) rebom! )
Savoyard Savoyard Chamb6ry Chambéry vermouths vermout hs are are recommended.
recommended. 8. 8. As As a a last last resort, resort, during during the the long
long hot hot summer summer days days (especially (espccially if jf you you happur
happen to to live live in in the the south south of of France) France) a a splendid
splendid light'pastis' light 'pastis' simply simply because because its its tart
tan aniseed aniseed flavour flavour refreshes refreshes the the palate palate
without without spoiling spoiling the the appetite. appetite.

APHORISMS APHORlSMS AND AND AXIOMS. AXIOMS, ApHoRTsMES APHORISMES Er ET AxroMEs

AXIOMES * Short Short pithy pithy maxims, maxims, expressing expressing rules rules
and and precepts precepts of of
gastronomy, gastronomy, hygiene hygiene and and everything everything pertaining
pertaining to to the the table, table, the the most most celebrated celebrated of
of which which are are those those of of Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, given
given by by this this master master of ofgastronomical gastronomical sciences
sciences as as a a preface preface to to Physiologie Physiologie du du gofrt. goût.
Here Here they they are: are: l. 1. The The universe universe is is nothing nothing
except except for for life, life, and and everything everything that that lives
lives has has to to feed feed itself. itself. 2. 2. Animals Animais feed; feed; man
man eats; eats; only only a a man man of ofwit wit knows knows how how to to eat.
eal. 3. 3. The The destiny destiny of of nations nations depends depends on on
their tbeir manner manner of of eating. eating. 4. 4. Tell Tell me me what what you
you eat, eat, and and IJshall shall tell tell you you what what you you are. are.
5. 5. The The Creator, Creator, by by making making man man eat eat to to live,
live, invites invites him him to to do do so so with witb appetite appetite and and
rewards rewards him him with with pleasure. pleasure. 6. 6. Gourmandism Gourmandism
is is an an act act of of judgement, judgement, by by which wbich we we prefer
prefer things thingswhich which have have a a pleasant pleasant taste taste to to
those thosewhich which lack lack this this quality. quality. 7. 7. The The
pleasures pleasures of of the the table table belong belong to to all ail agei,
ageS, to to all ail conditions, conditions, to to all ail countries countries and
and to to every every day; day; they they can can be be associated associated with
with all ail the the other other pleasures pleasures and and remain remain the the
longest us for for the the loss loss of ofthe the rest. rest. longest to to console
console us 8. 8. The The table table is is the the only only place place where
where one one is îs never never bored bored during during the the first first hour.
hour. 9. 9. The The discovery di5covery of ofa a new new dish dish does does more
more for for the the happihappiness ness of ofmankind mankind than than the the
discovery discovery of ofa a star. star. 10. 10. Those Those who who give give
themselves themselves indigestion indigestion or or get get drunk, d run k, do do
not not know know how how to to eat eat or or drink. drink. I Il. l. The Thecorrect
correct order orderof offoods foods is isstarting startingwith with the theheaviest
heaviest and and ending ending with with the the lightest. lightesl. 12. 12. The
The correct correct order order of of beverages beverages is is starting starting
with with the the most most temperate temperateand and ending endingwith with the
the most most heady. beady. 13. 13. To To claim daim that tbat wines wines should
should not not be he changed changed is is aa heresy; heresy; the the palate palate
becomes becomes saturated saturated and and after aner the the third third glass
glass the the best best of of wines wines arouses arouses nothing nothing but but
an an obscure obscure sensation. sensation.
35 35

16. The The most most indispensable indispensable quality quality of of a cook is
is punctupunctual.ity; alîty; it should should also also be be that that of of a a
guest. guesl. 17. 17. To To wait wait too too long long for for a a late-comer
late-comer is is to to show show a a lack lack of consideration consideration for
for all all those those present. present. 18. 18. He He who who receives receives
his his friends friends and and gives gives. no no personal personal attention
attention to to the tbe meal meal which which is is being being prepared prcpared
for for them, them, is is not not worthy worthy of of having having friends.
friends. 19. 19. The The mistress mistress of of the the house house must must
always always make make sure sure that that her her coffee coffee is is excellent,
excellent, and and the the master master of of the the house house that that his
his wines wines are are choice. choice. 20. 20. To To invite invite someone sorne
one is is to to take take charge charge of of his his happiness happiness during
during the the time time he he spends spends under under your your roof. roof. Some
Sorne of of Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's aphorisms, aphorisms, notably
notably the the one one which which claims daims that that 'One 'One can can learn
learn to to cook, cook, but but a a restaurateur restaurateur is ! is born' born'
are are rather rather disputable disputable! There Thcre are are many many other
other gastronomic gastronomie aphorisms. aphorisms, We We quote quote some sorne
which which are are attributed attributed to to the the actor actor Des Des
Essarts, Essarts, who, who, according according to to a a contemporary contemporary
author, author, had had an an appetite appetite proproportionate porüonate to to
his his corpulence corpuleoce (Des (Des Essarts Essarts was was very very fat) fat)
and and was wit- qualities was as as much much a a gastronome gastronome as as a a
man man of ofwitqualities which which often oflen go go together. together. Some
daim that that he he was was the the precursor precursor of of BrillatBrillatSorne
people people claim Savarin. Savarin. A A good good dinner dinner would wou Id put
put him him into into good good spirits. spirits. LIe He would would eloquently
eloquently analyse analyse the the qualities qualities of of each each dish dish
and and create crea te amusingly amusingly bizatre bizafre combinations
combinations of of words: words: 'Good 'Good cookery cookery is is the the food
food of of a a clear clear conscience.' conscience.' 'Let the the leg leg of
ofmutton multon be be awaited awaited as as the the first first lovers' lovers'
meetmeeting, caught in in the the act, act, golden golden as as a a young young
ing, mortified mortified as as a a liar liar caught German German girl, girl, and
and bloody bloody as as a a Carib.' Carib.' 'Take 'Take advantage advantage of of
the the gracious gracious condescension condescensÎon of of the the elegant calf's
kidney, kidney, multiply multiply its its metamorphoses; metamorphoses; you you
can, can, eJegant calf's without without giving givlng it it offence, offence, call
cali it it the the chameleon chameleon of of cuisine.' cuisine.' 'Make 'Make of of
an an egg egg an an amiable amiable intermediary intermediary which which comes
cornes between betweeo the the various various parts parts of of food food to to
bring bring about about difficult difficult reconciliations.' reconcil iations.'
'Mutton 'Mutlon is is to to lamb lamb what what a a millionaire millionaire uncle
uncle is is to to his his poverty-stricken poverty-strîcken nephew.' oephew.' 'A 'A
vineJeaf vine-leaf wrapped wrapped round round a a partridge partridge brings
brings out oût its its quality, quality, just just as as the the barrel barrel of
of Diogenes Diogenes brought brought forth forth the the qualities qualities of
ofthe the great great thinker.' thinker.' 'Never 'Never forget forget that that the
the pheasant pheasant must must be be awaited awaited like like the the pension ofa
a man man of ofletters letters who who has has never never written written epistles
epistles to to pension of the the ministers m.inisters or or madrigals madrigals to
to their their mistresses.' mistresses.' Des Des Essarts, Essarts, born born at at
Langres Langres in in 1740, 1740, was was one one of ofthe the best best actors
actors of ofthe the Com€die-Frangaise. Comédie-Française. He He died died suddenly
suddenly in1793, in 1793, on on hearing hearing ofthe of the arrest arrest ofone of
one ofhis of bis best best friends. friends. The The poets poets and and prose
prose writers writers of ofthe the past past have have also also formuformulated
lated gastronomical gastronomical aphorisms aphorisms and and axioms. axioms.
Horace, Horace, who who set setgreat grea tstore storeby bythe thecleanliness c1ean
liness of ofthe the table, table, and and above above all ail insisted insisted
that that one one should should be be able able to to see see one's one's
reflection reftection mirrored m.irrored in in the the plates plates and and
glasses, glasses, wrote wrote as as follows: follows: 'The 'The stomach stomach
heaves heaves when when one one receives receives from from a a valet valet a a
goblet goblet bearing bearing the the greasy greasy imprint imprint of of his his
sauce-stained sauce-stained fingers, fingers, and and when when one one sees sees
at at the the bottom boltom the the filthy filthy dregs dregs collected collected
there.' there.' Plutarch Plutarch makes makes this this statement statement - which
which he he attributes attributes to to Aemilius Aemilius Paulus, Paulus, the
theconqueror conqueror of ofPersia: Persia: 'The 'Tbesame sameintelliintelligence
genceis is required required to to marshal marshal an an arrny army in in battle
battle as as to to order orderaa good gooddinner. dinner. The Thefirst firstmust
must be beas asformidable formidable as aspossible, possible, the the second second
as as pleasant pleasantas as possible, possible, to to the the participants.'
participants.' In In these these words words Plutarch Plutarch gives gives a a
valuable valuable lesson lesson to to all al! would-be would-be gastronomes,
gastronomes, to to those those who who frequently frequently compose compose menus
menuswhich which would would give give no no pleasure pleasure to to aa true
truegastronome. gastronome. Rabelais Rabelais categorically categorically declares
declares that that only only 'candle-lit' 'candie-lit'

'kt
APHORISMS AND AXIOMS
dinners and suppers suppers are pleasing. He goes goes on to say: 'There 'There is
no good cheer cheer except at night when the the lanterns are in place with wilh
their gentle gentle flickering lights.' Nearer to our own time, other writers and
gastronomes have have formulated many many aphorisms which may may be be taken
taken as sound sound gastronomical gastronomical rules. rules. Thus Car€me Carême
gives the following advice to ministers and diplomats: 'The culinary art follows
diplomacy, and every prime prime minister minister should pay it tribute.'
tribute.' Talleyrand knew used to knew this this only too too well. weil. He He
used ta advise French ambassadors ambassadors at the courts courts of foreign
sovereigns sovereigns to ta rely more on their their casseroles than on their
secretaries. secreta ries. chamber, Carême also says: 'To 'To preside preside over
a political cham ber, or Car6me course in gastroa post in an embassy, em bassy, is
to ta take a a course to hold a nomy.' Another of Carême's aphorisms stresses how
very very imAnother of Car€me's stresses how portant is is the the part part played
played by by cookery: 'When 'When there is is no more cookery in the world there
will be no more letters, no quick and lofty intelligence, no no pleasant pleasant
easy relationships, relationships, (Pdtissier pittoresque) no more social unity.'
unit y.' (Pâtissier pilloresque) Saint-Beuve is responsible Saint-Beuve responsible
for this aphorism: 'Intellectual 'IntelJectual quickly wolf men who quîckly wolf
down whatever nourishment nourislunent is necesnecessary for for their sary their
bodies with with a a kind kind of disdain, disdain, may may be be very rational of
rational and have have a lofty intelligence, but they are not men of taste.' a
gastronome and Monselet, who who was was a and extremely witty, witt y, Monselet,
writings. This one shows formulated many aphorisms in his writings. formulated
social importance importance of good dinners: the social 'Tout sefait siicle où oil
1101lS nous sommes sommes 'Toul dînant dans se fait en dinant dans le siècle c'est
par des dÎner.ç Et c'est diners qu'on gouverne les hommes.' 'Everything is done at
dinner in the century in which which we live, and it is by dinners that men are
governed.' Monselet also wrote: 'Gastronomy is the joy joy of every condition and
every age. It adds beauty to wit.' lt 'A gourmet is a a being pleasing to Heaven.'
'A passions, rationalised 'All passions, 'AJI rationalised and controlled, become
an art. is sensitive sensitive to to more than other passion, Gastronomy, more than
any Gastronomy, any other passion, is and direction.' reasoning and pleasant hours
of our Iife point: the pleasant life well on this point: 'Ponder weil less
intangible intangible link, more or all connected, by a more or less are by a link,
with are ail some memory of the the table.' sorne 'There are to produce are many
many flowers which serve serve only only to 'There flowers which could have made
made savoury dishes.' of which one could essences, ofwhich And in his Le!lres
Lettres à d Emilie he gives the following advîce advice to 'Enchant, stay beautiful
beautiful and gracious; but to do all women: 'Enchant, ail well. Dring Bring the
the same consideration consideration to the preparata the this, eat weil. your
appearance. Let your devote ta to your appearance. tion ofyour ofyour food as you
devote like your dress.' be a a poem, Iike dinner be great-nephew of the great-
nephew of Brillat-Savarin, Tendret, the Lucien Tendret, Lucien a few gastronomical
aphorisms in his book La Table created a are, no no doubt. doubt, less famous de
Brillat-Savarin. au pays de Brillat-Savarin. They are, gottt, but a &t goût, a few
few of of author of Physiologie than those of the author Physiologie du them them
deserve to be be quoted here: 'Cuisine is it is both an art art and and a a
science. It is is an an art art when when it both an science. Il 'Cuisine and the
to bring bring about about the the realisation realisation of of the the true and
the true strives to (the good) in in the order of culinary bon (Ihe le bon the
order beautiful, beautiful, called le and it is analagous analagous ta to
chemistry, physics and a science, science, jt ideas. As a theorems Its natural
history. 1 ts axioms are called aphorisms, its theorems natural gastronomy.'
philosophy gastronomy.' and its philosophy recipes, and are identical, but the the
fleeting beautiful and and the the good are 'The beautiful work of a a cook cook or
or a a musician created by by the the work impressions created as they they are are
being experienced. Raphael's disperse disperse even even as being experienced.
painting The The Transfiguration Transfiguration is is immortal, immortal, but but
Carême's Car€me's painting lasts only only while while it is is being Ragottt de de
truffes truffes à d la parisienne Ragoût parisienne lasts just as be roses last
last as as long long as as their their fragrance can can he eaten, Just as roses
eaten, enjoyed.' not and even if he may mav not 'The cook cook is is no no less
than an an anist, artist. and even jf
36 36 be he on the level level of of Polygnotus PoJygnotus and Phidias, Phidias, he
he has his his part part and his place in civilisation as a whole.' whole."

'Skilful cookery has always made its appear'Sk.ilful and refined cookery ance
during the most glorious glarious epochs in history.' conqueror of 'Vatel 'Vatel is
not not less famous than his master, master, the conqueror of Rocroi, and and if if
glory glory is nothing but smoke, then then Antonin Antonin Car€me Carème has bas
made as much of it it as Napoleon.' 'To give life to ta beauty, the painter painter
uses a whole whoJe range of of colours, the musician of of sounds, the cook of of
tastes tastes - and it is indeed indeed remarkable remarkable that there there are
seven seven colours, seven musical notes and seven tastes.' tastes.' Lucien Lucien
Tendret Tendret also made the following following remarks illustratillustrating the
importance importance of good cuisine cuisille in diplomatic diplomatie affairs:
affairs: 'Political 'Political issues issues are are decided decided at at table.
table. Talleyrand often creations of owed owed his his successes successes to to
the the skilful sk.ilful creations of Antonin Car6me.' Carême.' 'At ambassador 'A t
the time of the Congress Congress of Vienna, the ambassador (Talleyrand), said to
(Talleyrand), taking taking leave leave of of Louis Louis XVIII, XVIII, said to
him: o'Please "Please believe me, me, your Majesty, Majesty, I l need need
saucepans more than written questions."' questions." , ambassador 'Monsieur assures
us 'Monsieur Guizot Guizot assures us that that while he was am bassador in London,
London, his rus cook was more useful useful to ta him politically politically than
his secretaries.' secretaries,' advice, of axioms, He also gave the following ad
vice, in the form ofaxioms, to his rus hosts and guests: given only 'To order a
dinner only to order and and conduct conduct a 'To dinner is is givcn to fine
gastronomes, of of delicate delicate and cultivated gastronomes, cultivated tastes.
A skilful host a good cook.' is as rare as a gastronomes who 'One only dines well
of true 'One weil at a t the homes of t rue gastronomes of spoils the loveliest of
feel all ail the nuances. The least puffiness spolls faces, and and attention to
detail creates perfection.' faces, perfection.' 'With dishes and can offer
succulent dishes offer succulent 'With money, money, anyone anyone can courtesy
kindness cannot be bought.' famous famous wines, wines, but courtes y and kindness
wit 'To appetite eat, to make 'To make make people people who have no appctîte make
the wit lack these of those who have it sparkle, to of ta enable those who Jack
qualities to science of of a this is supreme science qualities to find find them
them is the the supreme - this gastronome-host.' gastronome-hosl.' seated
comfortably and are not 'The gourmets, if if they chey are not seated and the food
food for have no elbow raom, room, count both the wines and for nothing.'
philosophy Lucien Tendret says: And to sum up his phîlosophy 'French conversation
was born in 'French in the salons of the eighthe Regent, from dining-rooms of the
teenth century. From the dining-rooms H€nault, Baron Holbach and and Mme. Baron
Holbach those of of President those President H~nault, and a society, society,
certainly sceptical sceptical and emerged a Geoffrin, there emerged permeated with
and that suave urbanity urbanity and impious, but but permeated impious, wilh suave
which has since spread and enlightened courtesy which ingenious and of the the
salient Europe, and and has has become one of throughout Europe, become one
throughout civilisation.' characteristics of cha rac teri s tics 0 f modern ci vi
lisa ti 0 n. ' point in his poem, Richepin makes makes a a practical Jean Richepin
Jean practical point in his

A rable: À Table:
y compris serrel lafamille, se serre! Est-on dix, y compris la famille. on se Est-
on d l'étro;1 I'dtroit et sans être Atre à ftop cependant, et Mais pas trop II
l'air aux aux coudes. et le droit coudes, el Il faut faut qu'on ait de "air gestes;
I'on veul, bavardant, si l'on veut, de grands r;?estes; De faire en bavardant,
Grignotis de profil,les mets SOnl sont indig~stes. indigestes. . Grignotés profil,
les mets
the family; sit sit closer together! 'We are ten, with the But not too closely: we
don't want la to be be cramped, We must have elbow room, room, and and be able We
To talk and and make gestures, if if we feel feel so incllned; inclined; Ta picking
at and picking at food food is courting Sitting sideways and indigestion.' '
indigestion.
say la to he has has something ta to say return to to Lucien Tendret, he To return
giving people who in giving think they they are doing wrong wrong in who think are
doing reassure people table: to the the pleasures of the the ta themselves up to
ble: gluttony as 'The casuists seven have classed classed glutlony as one one of of
Ihe the seven casuists have 'The drinking to to sins, but if if it it is not not
taioted tainted by the the vice of drink.ing deadly sins, deadly
APHORISMS APHORISMS AND AND AXIOMS AXIOMS

painting by D Téniers T6niers by D a painting The The Five Five Senses, Senses, a

inebriation or eating to excess, it de serves to be ranked with with be ranked

deserves the theological virtues.' AndAnd 'Those who have a profound indifference
to to the the pleasures a profound of the table are and unamiable.' generally
gloomy, charmless charmless and are generally of Apothegms. - The phorisms of The a
aphorisms couRMANDsAPoPHTEGMEs GOURMANDS Apothegms. APOPHTEGMES Much less less
Brillat-Savarin the world. world. Much throughout the are known known throughout
Brillat-savarin are of author of known are the author which the gastronomical
apothegms apothegms which are the gastronomical philosophy of of the the
Physiologie goftt has forth on on the the philosophy has set set forth Physiologie
du du goût table: Cookery. which and one one which arts, and the oldest oldest
arts, 'Cooking is is one one of of the Cookery. 'Cooking has in civillife.' civil
life.' service in important service most important us the the most has rendered
rendered us 'The much as as least as as much at least is worth worth at men is 'The
science which feeds feeds men science which the kill them.' them.' how to to kjll
one which which teaches teaches how the one 'Once improvement for improvement
instinct for the instinct 'Once fire fire was was discovered, discovered, the made
place to it, and and dry it, to dry first place the first it, in in the to it, men
bring food to made men bring food afterwards t on cook.' put fire to to cook.' on
the the fire to pu afterwards to 'Cookery vessels fire-resisting vessels progress
when great progress when fire-resisting made great 'Cookery made in or clay clay
appeared.' appeared.' in bronze bronze or 'Meals, word, the word, we understand
understand the in which which we sense in in the the sense 'Meals, in began
species.' human species.' of the the hurnan age of with the the second second age
began with 'In itis is find ourselves, ourselves, it now find in which which we we
now 'In the society in the state state of of society difficult and on bread
breadand lived solely solely on nation which which lived a nation to imagine
imagine a difficult to vegeta bles. ' vegetables.' Gourmandism ism is t, ardent,
isan anarden G ottmandism Gourmands.''Gourmand and Gourmands. G ourmandism and
rational the whichflatter flatter the preference for things which for things
habitual preference rational and and habituai taste.' taste.' 'From gourmandism,
you look atgourmandism, point of look at view you of view 'From whatever whatever
point it praise and andencouragement.' encouragement.' but praise deserves nothing
nothing but it deserves 'Gourmandism society.' links uniting uniting society.' main
links of the the main 'Gourmandism is isone one of 'If are thereare predestination,
then thenthere gastronomes by by predestination, 'If there there are are
gastronomes also some by bycircurnstance.' circumstance.' also sorne Taste. cannot
say, it itcannot isto tosay, itsaction, action, that thatis inits 'Taste is
issimple simple in Taste.'Taste react atonce.' once.' flavours at twoflavours react
to to two 'Man's ofthe the andof textureand its texture palate, by ofits
thedelicacy delicacy of 'Man's palate, by the various proof gives sufficient
sufficient proof it,gives surround it, thatsurround membranes that various
membranes of wasintended.' intended.' forwhich which ititwas functions for
offunctions sublimity of of the thesublimity
37 37

proclaims itself 'Appetite proclaims itself by by aa digestion. 'Appetite and

digestion. Appetite and Appetite feeling of of and a a feeling stomach, and in the
the stomach, languor in of languor slight sensation sensation of slight tiredness.'
tiredness.' the and the function, and mechanical function, 'Digestion is absolutely
mechanical is an an absolutely 'Digestion with mill equipped equipped with as a a
mill of as thought of can be be thought organs can digestive organs digestive
sieves.' sieves.' linked with with must be be linked it must as a awhole, whole, it
'To understand digestion as understand digestion 'To and its its consequences.'
consequences.' food and food which one which is the the one functions, is the
bodily bodily functions, all the 'Digestion, of of ail 'Digestion, an of an mental
state state of greatest influence on the the mental influence on the greatest
exercises the exercises individual.' individual.' is in in while digestion
digestion is people are bad temper temper while are in in aa bad 'Some people
'Sorne prosuggest proto suggest either to not the the time time either progress; it
it is is therefore therefore not progress; jects or of them.' them.' favours of ask
favours to ask or to jects quality and and prove that that the thequality 'Theory
and both prove andexperience experience both 'Theory onwork.' work.' powerful
influence influence on quantity of have aa powerful food have of food quantity
copewith with the the adequatelycope cannot adequately mancannot 'A badly nourished
man badly nourished 'A length of oftime.' time.' any length for any work for
continuous work effort of of continuous effort the among the neverfound foundamong
'Obesity is isnever Thinness. 'Obesity and Thinness. Obesityand Obesity people have
have thepeople wherethe ofsociety society where classesof theclasses or among among
the savages or savages live.' tolive.' eatto theyonly onlyeat where they eat, and
andwhere work to toeat, to towork isaa for men, men,but butititis greatdrawback
drawbackfor 'Thinness is is not not aagreat 'Thinness women.' for women.'
misfortune for dreadful dreadful misfortune introduced which, introduced
meanssubstances substanceswhich, 'By foods onemeans foodsone Foods.'By Foods.
restore andrestore digestion,and bydigestion, assimilated by canbe beassimilated
stomach, can into into the thestomach, body.' human body.' lost by bythe thehuman
energy lost the theenergy gaveto to qualitiesnature naturegave thequalities with
the 'Wewere satisfiedwith 'We were not notsatisfied pretextof ofimproving improving
thepretext underthe poultry;art in,and andunder artstepped stepped in, poultry;
ofthem.' them.' martyrs of fowls, fowls, made made martyrs painting, and the andthe
forpainting, isfor canvasis whatcanvas 'Poultry 'Poultryis isfor forcookery
cookerywhat usboiled, boiled, servedto tous Itisisserved forcharlatans.
charlatans.It Fortunatusfor cap ofFortunatus capof portions,with orwithout without
withor orin inportions, wholeor roast, cold,whole orcold, roast,hot hotor success.'
withequal equalsuccess.' sauce, alwayswith sauce,and andalways proofprohonourof
thehonour contestthe France contest 'Three 'Threelands ancientFrance landsof
ofancient andBresse.' Bresse.' Mansand poultry:Caux, LeMans Caux,Le ducing thebest
bestpoultry: ducingthe giftsthat New thatthe theNew thebest bestgifts oneof ofthe
'Turkey 'Turkeyisisundoubtedly undoubtedly one
APHTONITUS APHTONITUS
the seven seven great cbefs chefs of Ancient APHTONITUS - One of tbe Greece. He
invented the pudding. pudding.

World W orld has made to the 0 Id. ' Old.' 'Game provides the the delights delights
of our table; it 'Game it is is healthy, rich, savoury food, food, excellent in in
taste taste and and easy rich, savoury easy to to digest, digest, especially when
young.' especially 'Under the direction of an able goes through able chef, game
goes many skilful skilful modifications and and transformations, transformations,
and and promany vides most most of of the the full-flavoured dishes vides dishes
which which constitute constitute cuisine.' superlative cuisine.' 'The taste of
partridge is not the same as that of a Périgord P6rigord partridge tha t of a
Sologne Sologne partridge.' a 'If the the garden warbler warbler were were the the
size size of of a a pheasant, 'If pheasant, it certainly cost as much as an an acre
of land.' would most certainly 'The quail is the sweetest and the nicest of game
birds. It It is an act of ignorance to serve it in any way except roasted.' glory
only when woodcock is in its full glory when roasted roasted actually 'A woodcock
actually before of the hunter; above ail, before the eyes of all, the hunter who
shot it.' 'In the the hands hands of an an able able cook, cook, fish fish can 'In
become an can become an inexhaustable source of delight.' exhaustable is the garden
warbler of the water; the 'The smelt is the same smallness, the same high flavour,
the same superiority.'
38

There were the name APICIUS by the name of were three three Romans Romans by -
There genius, their Apicius. Ali All three were were famous, not not for their
genius, virtues, or their great qualities, but for their gluttony and virtues,
gastronomical art. achievements in the gastronomical achievements The first first
lived lived under The under Sulla, the second under Augustus Sulla, the second
under Tiberius, and the third under Trajan. It is and Tiberius, is the second most
famous, and it is ofhim Apicius of him that Seneca, Seneca, Apicius who is the most
Pliny, Juvenal Martial have spoken Pliny, Juvenal and Martial spoken so much.
Athenaeus says sa ys that he spent immense immense sums to satisfy his gluttony and
that of cakes which bear his name. tha t he invented several kinds of Seneca, who
was bis his contemporary, contemporary, tells us that he ran a sort Seneca, 'good
fare'. adds that Apicius, having got of school of 'good fare'. He adds debt, was at
last forced to examine into heavy debt, examine the state of of his seeing he had
only 250,000 Roman pounds affairs, and that, seeing (some authors forty million
sesterces, sesterces, about about an authors say say fort left y million left
(sorne income of of f80,000), €80,000), he poisoned himself, fearing that such a
sum would not be enough for him to live on. ragofits which Apicius invented, of the
ragoûts Pliny often speaks speaks of omnium altissimus altissimus gurges. and calls
them nepotum omnium The third Apicius lived under Trajan. Having invented a secret
method of preserving oysters, managed to deliver oysters, he managed Emperor, who
was busy fighting sorne es to the Emperor, some very fresh on ones the Parthians at
the time. given to The name Apicius was was not not only to cakes cakes but The but
to only given several kind of sauces. of Coelius Apicius, There Apicius, a treatise
There exists, under the name of (1a98); in Milan (1498); re culinaria, printed for
the first De re first time tirne in De any critics the cri tics do not think,
however, that it was written by byany named Apicius. Martin Lister produced a of
the three men named De obsonus magnificent edition edition of of this this book
entitld De obsonus et magnificent book entitled 1705), ofwhich of which
condimentis, condimentis, sive de arte coquinaria coquinardc (London 1705), 125
copies were printed. printed. However, the first edition, which is undated, seems
to be It was was printed in in Venice by than the the Milan edition. It older older
than forty Bernardus de Vitali bus, and comprises fort y quarto pages, de
Vitalibus, constitute Apicius's book. the first thirty-two thirty-two of which
constitute a remarkable remarkable summary of the Dix DLx But the latest edition, a
Bertrand Guégan livres livres de de cuisine cuisine d'Apicius d'Apicius is is that
that of of Bertrand Gu€gan Ren€ Bonnel, Paris, 1933). 1933). (published by René it
is interesting To return to interesting to to Marcus Gavius Apicius, it note sorne
some of his his discoveries. discoveries. To To improve sows' sows' livers, livers,
he note gave them honeyed wine fattened them dried figs, figs, gave them honeyed
wine to them with dried warning. drink, then then suddenly slaughtered them them
without without warning. drink, When camel was on the menu he only had the most
delicate part served up - the heel. Did Imperial Rome have her gastronomes in the
strictest word, and were were the illustrious illustrious personages, whose sense
sense ofthis of this word, prowess table has been described described in history
prowess at table history or legend, real On this this point Car6me, connoisseurs
point Carême, connoisseurs of culinary matters? On of the history history of of
ancient Rome, who made a profound study of was'fundamentally cookery was says that
Roman cookery 'fundamentally barbaric'. barbaric'. named What the us of men named
What the historians historians tell tell us of the the three three men leads us to
agree with Carême. The Roman Roman table Apicius leads us to Car6me. The
spectacular was certainly magnificent, in the spectacular certainly sumptuous and
magnificent, all refined. sense, but it was not at ail at the the Apicius family,
family, governed the Rome, Rome, at the time of the known. She whole world, at any
rate the world as it was then known. laws to to distant provinces. From these these
subdictated her laws provinces. From dictated her jugated provinces she great
quantities quantities of various received great she received jugated sent her food
products. products. Gallia her pork. pork. Africa food Gallia Narbonensis sent and
Asia sent delectable foods Roman cooks, and foods which the the Roman Asia sent
Greeks, prepared in lavish manner. trained by the Greeks,
ApoNocEroNs APONOGETONACEAE. APONOGETONACEAE. APONOGETONS - Flowering rush
represented by one genus, Aponogeton family, represented Aponogeton. Their leaves
water. rather like waterlilies. float on the surface of the water,
APPERT APPERT The Aponogeton Aponogeton distachyus distachyas is is widely widely
cultivated cultivated in in the the The parts of temperate parts years now of
Europe. Europe. For For sorne some years now it it has has bebetemperate come
completely completely naturalised naturalised at Montpellier, where at Montpellier,
where ils its come young shoots shoots are are eaten eaten and and calied called
Cape Cape asparagus. asparagns. The The young plant are common names names for for
this this plant are Cape Cape pond weed weed and and water water common hawthorn.
hawthorn.
APOPHORETA given by by the the ancient ancient Romans Romans to to APOPHORET A-
Name given gifts which the gifts guests for which the the host host made made to to
his his guests for members members of of the their families. families. These gifts
were These gifts were often great value. often of of great value. They They their
precious dishes dishes or or vases which had had been at been used used at were
mostly precious the feast. feast. Sometimes Sometimes the slaves who the slaves who
served served at table were were also at table also the presented to guests. to the
the guests. presented

APOTIIECA. APOTHÉCAlpornEcn- Roman name name ofa of a room, room, situated situated
APOTHECA. under the the roof roof of of a a house, house, so so arranged arranged
that that the the smoke smoke of of various fireplaces passed passed through it,
with purpose of with the sole sole purpose of boiling down down the the famous
famous Caecu wine to Caecubum to the the desired desired boiling bum wine
consistency. syrupy consistency. to mature. This wine took at least fifteen years
to
APPAREIL In French culinary culinary terminology terminology this this word word is
is APPAREIL - In go into into the making making used to describe mixed preparations
that go of dishes. dishes. For For example, example, the the following following
terms terms are are used: of (souffi€ mixture); appareil appareil à d soufflé
souffii (soufflé (sponge appareil à d biscuit biscuit (sponge appareil mixture);
appareil à (custard mixture), d crème crime renversée renversie (custard mixture),
etc. etc. mixture);

APPELLATIONS D'ORIGINE According to to French APPELLATIONS - According legislation

the label of the label of a a controlled controlled wine wine must must bear an
legislation bear an appellation d'origine; that is to say the name of of the
viticultural appellation area to which it belongs. d'origine are are divided
divided into into two two categories: categories: Appellations d'origine contrdlie
(A.O.C.) and and vins vins délimités dilimitds de de appellation d'origine
contrôlée qualiti supérieure (V.D.Q.S.). The supirieure (V.D.Q.S.). group The first
first and and superior superior group qualité consists of viticultural areas of
wines wines belonging belonging to to the the viticultural areas that consists that
produce wines wines of great quality and and individuality, following traditional
methods. methods. The The latter group of latter is is a a secondary secondary
group traditional of controlled wines belonging to viticultural areas to
viticultural areas that that have general quality while a reputation for for their
general while not not proearned a ducing wines of of su such of the ducing ch
individual characteristics as those of first group.

Nicolas Appert

APPERT - It is impossible to explain how so many people people (including the

authors of the first edition of this dictionary) committed the the error of naming
naming Frangois François Appert Appert in in this context, context, when when it
ought ought to be Nicolas according to a - at least according short short report
report in in I'Encyclopidie l'Encyclopédie universelle universelle du du XD( XIX"
siècle siicle (1858 (1858 edition, published published eighteen eighteen years
years after the the death death of Charles-Nicolas Appert). Charles-Nicolas His
biography is is so vague that we prefer to repeat what the canners canners
themselves themselves have to say about him. the About a a hundred hundred and and
sixty sixt Y years years ago, the Frenchman Frenchman ago, the Nicolas Nicolas
Appert Appert discovered discovered how to to preserve preserve food products
products by the action action of of heat. the

The only only document document that that has has been been found found relating
relating to to The Appert's civil civil state state is is his his death death
certificate, certificate, although although we we do do Appert's know that that he
he was was born born in in Châlons, Chdlons, in in the the Marne, Marne, in in
1750. 1750. know Whether it it was was Châlons-sur-Marne Chdlons-sur-Marne or or
Châlons-sur-Vesle Chdlons-sur-Vesle Whether remains a a mystery. mystery. remains
His father father was was a a wine wine merchant merchant in in the the Champagne
region, Champagne region, His and Nicolas Nicolas began began work work with with
him, him, corking corking bottles. bottles. and Then he he moved moved on learn the
on to to learn culinary art the culinary art as as a acook cook at at the Then the
court of of Christian Christian IV. IV. He He also also worked worked in in several
several brasseries brasseries court private households. and private households.
Finally Finally when when he he was was about about thirty thirty and (about 1780)
years old 1780) he old (about he set set up up as as a a confectioner confectioner
in in rue ruedes des years Lombards, Paris. Paris. Lombards, preparation of Appert
became became deeply deeply interested interested in in the the preparation of
Appert products. He food products. He soon soon realised realised the inadequacy
and the inadequacy and disdisfood preservation, and advantages of of contemporary
contemporary methods methods of of preservation, and advantages set himself himself
the the task task of of investigating investigating new new ones. ones. set In
1810, 1810, in in order order to his invention to bring bring his invention to to
the notice of the notice of the the In public, Appert published le Appert published
le Livre Livre de de tous tous les les ménages mdnages ou ou public, pendant
plusieurs plusieurs années I'Art de de conserver conserver pendant anndes toutes
l'Art toutes les les subsub('The Manual animales et stances animales vigitales
('The et végétales Manual for stances for Every Every HouseHousehold or or the the
Art Art of Preserving ail of Preserving all Varieties Varieties of hold of Animal
Animal and and Vegetable Substances for Several Substances for Several Years').
Vegetable Years'). He wrote: wrote: 'My 'My method method is is not not a a vain
vain theory; He theory; it it is is the the fruit fruit of late late nights,
nights, much much deep deep thinking thinking and and research, research, and of
and ininnumerable experiments.' experiments.' numerable probably Appert Most
probably Appert intuitively Most recognised the intuitively recognised the
destrucdestruc'ferments' that tive action action of of heat heat on tive on the the
'ferments' that alter alter animal animal and and possible to He realised
substances. He vegetable substances. that if if it it were realised that were
possible to destroy or attenuate the 'ferments' by or attenuate destroy the effect
effect of of these heating these 'ferments' by heating sufficiently, and preventing
other them sufficiently, and afterwards afterwards succeed succeed in in preventing
other 'ferments' from from being 'ferments' being introduced introduced into into
the the substance, substance, the the conservation of prolonged, if conservation of
the the latter latter would would be be prolonged, if not not inindefinitely, at at
least least for period. Although definitely, for a a very very long long period.
Although this this disdiscoverywas pon scientific managed co very was not not based
based u upon scientific theory, theory, Appert Appertmanaged (rule-of-thumb)
methods through empirical through empirical (rule-of-thumb) perfect a methods to to
perfect a system of preservation which of food food preservation principle is
system which in in principle is little little difdifferent from ferent from that
employed in processes that employed in manufacturing manufacturing processes today.
Encouraged by Encouraged by official official approval, approval, Appert gave gave
up up his his conconfectionery business business and fectionery and occupied
occupied himself himself exclusively exclusively with with experiments; these
proved the experiments; these at at length length proved validity of the validity
of his his theories. ln 1794 1794 he settled settled in In in Ivry-sur-Seine. lvry-
sur-Seine. In In 1804, 1804, with with the the help help of sorne some financial
financial backing, he of he acquired piece of acquired a a piece of land land of of
4 4 (10 acres) hectares (10 hectares acres) at Massy in at Massy in Seine-et-Oise,
Seine-et-Oise, and and built built a a factory. This This he equipped equipped with
with what to to us us would would seem seem rather rather primitive machinery. He
He employed employed about about fifty fifty workers. workers. Scientific
Scientific controversies controversies arose arose over over Appert's Appert's
discovery, discovery, and and it it was was not not until until Pasteur Pasteur
arrived arrived on on the the scene scene that that a a satissatisfactory factory
explanation was was reached. Massy Massy was destroyed destroyed by by the the
Allies Allies in in 1814. 1814. practically penniless, Although old penniless,
Appert old and and practically Appert did did not not give up. give up. In In 1817
l8l7 he he settled settled in in rue rue Cassette, Cassette, in in Paris, Paris,
and and premises in managed managed to to obtain obtain premises in rue rue Moreau
Moreau from from the the government. There There he he resumed the application
application of his manumanuof his facturing processes on a facturing processes a
large large scale. scale. The last years of his Iife, life, like his early years,
years, are are something something of a a mystery. He He died poverty on died in in
extreme extreme poverty I June on 1 June 1840. 1840. In In 1852, Chevallier-Appert
Chevallier-Appert took up up where the the other other had had left left off. He He
was was Appert's Appert's successor perfected Appert's successor and and he he
perfected Appert's ideas. He had had the idea idea of putting canned foods foods in
in the the autoautoclave (q.v.), which clave (q.v.), which up had been up to to
then then had been used used for for entirely entirely different purposes. He
raised the temperature to a different purposes. a high level. level. Since it was
was necessary to to know the the temperature inside inside the the autoclave
autoclave during during the the operation operation in preserve the in order order
to to preserve the quality quality of the the canned canned foods, foods,
Chevallier-Appert Chevallier-Appert devised devised a a pressure gauge as as weil.
well.
39 39
APPETENCE APPETENCE

Calville Blanc apple

Reinette du Canada apple

(Pomona) Richared apple (Pomona) Richared apple

(Pomona) apple (Pomona) Stark Jaugrines apple Stark Jaugrines

which brings desire desire lppfrsNcE -- A APPETENCE. APPÉTENCE A feeling which for
food; this is the first stage for appetite.
me for APPÉTIT name for chives chives in in French. French. (See APPf,TIT Common na
- Common CHIVES.) APPETITE. define under the the term Appfrlr -- Psychologists
define APPETITE. APPÉTIT natural.appetite cause us which instinctively cause
natural,appetite the tendencies which to needs of the body. to satisfy the needs In
physiology physiology appetite is difis defined defined as as sometrung something
rather different from hunger. in reality reality is is nothing more than hunger.
Hunger Hunger in the need which of pleasure which need to eat, whereas appetite is
the lure of one experiences whilst about by a a particular whilst eating, brought
about condition of the organism. The sensation at regular mealsensation of hunger,
which develops at times people, sometirnes it is is not not sometimes disappears
disappears if it in civilised civilised people, times in satisfied at the usual is
stimulated stimulated by the the hour. The The appetite appetite is usual hour.
sight and smell of food; bitter substances substances frequently awaken awaken lost
appetite by releasing digestive secretions. digestive secretions. In certain
psycruc psychic and cases, appetite appetite can can degenerdegenerand mental
cases, ate into substances. offensive and and non-edible substances. into a a
craving for offensive The means distaste is anorexia, anorexia, wruch which means
distaste of appetite is The opposite ofappetite for food. APPIGRET Rabelais used
used to to which Rabelais An old old French French word word which APPIGRET - An
define juice, seasoning. seasoning. define gravy, BraW, juice,
poMME - AppIes APPLE. to are the fruit fruit of of a a tree tree belonging
belonging to APPLE. POMME - Apples are the Rosaceae. the family Rosaceae. The are
divided divided into into cooking cooking varieties of of apples apples are The
numerous varieties and eating apples. apples. and eating The are: among the
American varieties varieties are: dessert apples apples among The best best dessert
Golden golden yellow yellow in in in colour, colour, truncated truncated in
Delicious, golden Golden Delicious, shape, juice, very very tasty tasty fiesh,
flesh, eaten eaten between between with a a delicate delicate juice, shape, with
October Delicious and Starking Delicious and April; Red Red Delicious, Starking
October and and April; Richared, red, varying shades shades of of dark dark red,
Richared, truncated in in shape, in varying shape, in keeping keeping weil March.
Among Among the varieties of French the varieties well until until March. of French
origin yellow streaked Reine des reinettes, early early variety, variety, yellow
origin are: are: Reine des reinettes, streaked with russet; yellowishrusset;
Reinette Reinette du &t Canada, Canada, rough-skinned, rough-skinned,
yellowishgreen green with with brown spots, mid-season mid-season variety variety
keeps keeps weil well if if it it brown spots, has grown at has been at a a high
high altitude; altitude; Reinette Reinette du du Mans Mans and and been grown
Reinette late varieties Reinette Clochard, Clochard,late varieties both cultivated
in in the the Loire Loire both cultivated valley. vallev.

particular Calville in shape shape irregular in Calville, in particular Calville

Blanc, Blanc, irregular Calville, in pronounced 'shoul'shoulprominent with more or
minent sides sides and or less less pro and pronounced ders', gradually
disappearing, has sorne some adherents adherents still has disappearing, but ders',
is is gradually but still on These different its very very delicate delicate
Bavour. flavour. These different on account account of of its from pp lied from
varieties well su supplied apples keep keep the the market market weil varieties of
of apples production is September is important important French production May.
French to April April or or May. September to qualitatively, and both
quantitatively and is complemented complemented and qualitatively, and is both
quantitatively by Italy and the Holland. During During the imported from from Italy
and Holland. apples irnported by apples (the golden golden varieties season her
excess excess (the varieties France exports exports her season France especially)
also Imports are and Great Great Britain. Britain. Imports are also to Germany
Germany and especially) to received from hemisphere in in April, April, May May and
and from the the southern southern hemisphere June, French apples apples are are
exhausted. exhausted. June, when when stocks stocks of of French The grape, is is
one like the choicest dessert dessert our choicest The apple, apple, like the
grape, one of of our fruits. It is is rich rich in in assimilable assimilable
mineraIs minerals -- calcium, calcium, copper, copper, fruits. It iron, potassium
-- and contains Vitamins Vitamins B B and contains magnesium and and potassium
iron, magnesium preparation of and of are used in the the preparation Apples are
and C, and tannin. tannin. Apples used in C, and numerous preserves, etc., in the
manusweet dishes, dishes, preserves, etc., and and in the manunumerous sweet
facture pastries and They and apple apple sugar sugar in in confectionery.
confectionery. They facture of of pastries are give cider, pressed and cider, from
from and used in the the alembic alembic to to give are also also pressed used in
which Calvados. which is is derived derived Calvados. Baked pastry or DE normand.
RABOTTES RABoTTES DE Bakd apples apples in in pastry or douiJIon douillon normand.
poMMEs OU POMMES DOUILLoN NORMAND NoRMAND -- Choose big sound sound baking baking
ou DOUILLON Choose big apples part containing apples and and core core them,
containing them, to to remove remove the central part the central prethe pips. Make
middle, to a circular circular incision incision round round the the rniddle, to
preMake a the pips.

Baked pastry Baked apples apples in in pastry

40 40
APPLE APPLE
vent vent their their bursting. bursting. Fill Fill the the middle, middle,
hollowed hollowed out out by by the the corer, corer, with with butter butter
kneaded kneaded with wilh sugar sugar (and (and with wilh a a pinch pinch of of
cinnamon, cinnamon, if if desired). desired).
Enclose Enclose eachapple each apple in in apiec,eof a piece ofLiningpaste(w Lining
pas/e (see DOUGH), DOUGH), rolled rolled out oUi not nol too 100 thick. Ihick. Put
Put a a little little circlet circlet of of paste paste (cut (eut out out with with
a a fluted-edged fluted-edgcd cutter) culler) on on top top of of each each apple.
apple. Brush Brush with with beaten egg egg and and score score the the outside
oUlside of of the the apples apples lightly lightly with with a a beaten

knife. knife. Bake Bake in a a moderate moderate oven oyen from from 25 25 to to 30
30 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve piping piping hot. hot. Note. NOie. The apples
apples can be be peeled pecled before before being being put put into into pastry.
paslry. They can also be be cooked cooked first first as for Apples Apples bonne
bonne femme (see below). below). In ln that that case case the the baking baking
will will only only take take femme 15 15 minutes. minutes. Lining Lining paste
paste can be be replaced replaced by by left-over left-over pieces pieces of of
puff puff pastry. pastry. Apptes POMMES BoNNE BONNE FEMME FEMME - Make Make a light
light Apples bonne bonne femme. femme. PoMMEs circular round the the middle middle
of of some sorne baking baking apples, apples, and circular incision incision round
core them. them. Put them them in a buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish.
Fill Fill the middle middle of of each apple with with a little butter butter mixed
with with fine castor castor sugar. sugar. water into the Pour a few tablespoons
tablespoons of ofwater the dish, bake bake gently gently in in the the oven oyen
and serve in the same dish. dish. Apples Apples Bourdaloue. Bourdaloue. PoMMEs
POMMES BouRDALoue BOURDALOUE - Poach apples, apples, as described in whole, who le,
halved or quartered, in in syrup, syrup, as in the recipe for Apricots Apricols
Bourdaloue Bourdaloue (see (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Apple butter, butter, marmalade
marmalade - See See JAM, JAM, Apple Apple ielly; jel/y; Apple MARMALADE, MARMALADE,
Appil, Apple marmalade. marmalade. some BEURRE Buttered apples. PoMMEs POMMES AU
BEURRE - Peel and core sorne water with minutes in boiling boiling water with
baking apples and parboil for 2 minutes baking put them it. Drain the apples, put
of lemon lemon juice juice added to il. a dash of fine sugar, dish, sprinkle with
in a a buttered wilh fine in buttered ovenproof dish, and of water (or light syrup)
and moisten with a few tablespoons tablespoons ofwater oven. cook gently in the
oyen. cro0ton of bread a round croûton apple on a Serve each apple bread which has
a few tablethe pan juices.with fried in in butter. been fried butter. Dilute the
juices with a spoons of water, add a little butter butter and pour over the apples.
Peel and and PoMMEs AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTn Apptes au chambertin. POMMES Apples
- Peel Chambertin in sweetened Chambertin Poach them in apples. Poach core several
apples. pint, li (6 oz. per per pint, l| cups g. sugar per litre (6 300 g. allowing
300 wine, allowing in this this syrup. syrup. cool in per quart) quart) of wine.
apples 10 to cool Leave the the apples wine. Leave per the syrup syrup by down the
a limbale. timbale. Boil down a fruit dish or a Arrange in a pour over apples. over
the the apples. half, leave until cold, then pour half, See CHARLOTTE. CHARLOTTE.
charlotte Apple charlotte - See See COMPOTE. COMPOTE. compote Apple compote - See
poMMEs CONDÉ the Prepare as as described described in the coNpf -- Prepare Apptes
Condé. Cond6. POMMES Apples (see APRICOT). Condi (see recipe for for Apricols
Apricots Condé recipe lu r. LA u CRhlE cniun AU PoMMEs À au kirsch. kirsch. POMMES
Apples il i la la crème crbme au Apples vanilla-flavoured in a a vanilla-flavoured
cook the the apples apples in Peel, core core and and cook rnscs -- Peel, KIRSCH
and arrange arrange Drain, dry dry and in the the syrup. syrup. Drain, cool in
syrup. Leave kave 10 to cool syrup. (or on At the the glass goblets goblets (or a
fruit fruit dish). dish). At on a in glass individually in them individually them
sweetened fresh cream, cream, sweetened half-whipped fresh moment top with half-
whipped top with last moment last with kirsch. flavoured with with sugar sugar and
and flavoured with can be be topped topped above, can prepared as as described
described above, Apples, prepared Note.Apples, NOIe. anisette, such as as anisette,
various liqueurs, such with various with cream cream ftavoured flavoured with with
etc. liqueur, rum, rum, etc. raspberry liqueur, chartreuse, raspberry cassis,
chartreuse, b€n€dictine, cassis, bénédictine, (apple pallcakes). pancakes). CRÊPES
cnBprs apples (apple wift apples Cr6pes stuffed strffed wilb Crêpes poMM.Es -
Prepare (q.v.) in in the the usual usual crdpes (q.v.) the crêpes AUx POMMES
rounnfns AUX FOURRÉES - Prepare the (see saace (see Apple sauce with concenlrated
concentrated Apple manner and and coat coat them them with manner below). below).
Put them them on on aa in four. four. Put pancakes or them in fold them or fold
Roll the the pancakes Roll quickly glaze quickly and glaze icing sugar sugar and
with icing baking sheet, sheet, sprinkle sprinkle with baking napkin. a folded
folded napkin. on a in the the oyen. oven. Serve Serve on in pannequets In in
called pannequels are usually usually called Nole. Stuffed Stuffed crêpes cr)pes
are NOIe. French. French. or halved or Poach halved PoMMEs -- Poach AUx POMMES
Apple eroOte. cro0te. CROÛTE cno0rn AUX Apple prepare as as and prepare syrup, and
quartered apples in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, apples in quartered
(see APRICOT). APRICOT). for Apricol Apricot crOÛle crofite (see recipe for in the
the recipe described described in poMMEs FIGARO gives the the Gilbert glves Phil€as
Gilbert FIcARo -- Philéas Figaro. POM.\lES Apples Figaro. Apples

vanilla vanilla bean bean and and enough enough milk milk (previously (previously
boiled) boiled) to to cover coyer them them completely. completely. Simmer Simmer
gently gently for for 45 45 to to 50 50 minutes. minutes. 'Core 'Core and and peel
peel 10 10 medium-sized medium-sized apples. apples. Cook Cook them them in in a a
light light syrup, syrup, strongly strougly flavoured fiavoured with with vanilla;
vanilla; it it is is enough enough for for the the pulp pulp just just to to be be
softened. softened. 'Shred 'Shred about about 15 15 almonds almonds and and roast
roast them them until until they they go go slightly slightly yellow yellow (not
(not brown). brown). Add Add to to them them 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 o2.,3 oz., 3

following following recipe: recipe: 'Scald 'Scald 650 650 g. g. (l+ (l-l: lb.) lb.)
chestnuts, chestnuts, remove remove the the shells shells and and the the inner
inner grey grey skin, skin, put put them them into into a a pan pan with with a a

tablespoons) tablespoons) coarsely coarsely crumbled crumbled marrons marrons

glacis. glacés. 'Make 'Make a a cream with wilh 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., 3 ~
cup) cup) castor castor sugar' sugar, 4 4 egg egg yolks, yolks, 11 tablespoons
tablespoons (2 (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour flour and and 4 4 dl. dl. (} ct
pint, pint, scant seant 2 2 cups) cups) vanilla-flavoured, vanilla-flavoured,
boiled boiled milk. milk. After After boiling boiling this this cream cream for for
I 1 minute, minute, remove remove from from the the heat heat and and incorporate
incorpora te 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter.
butter. Do Do not not allow allow to to boil boil again. again. Rub Rub the the
chestnuts chestnul~ through through a a sieve, sieve, put put this this puree purée
intoa into a saut6 sauté pan, pan, and and add add 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz-,l oz., 1
"up) cup) the castor sugar sugar and and l+ It dl. dl. (t (i pint, pint, J 1cup)
cup) cream. cream. Stir Stir on on the fire tire for for 2 2 minutes, minutes, and
and spread spread on on a a dish. dish. 'Place on this this chestnut chestnut
puree, purée, pour pour 'Place the the well-drained well-drained apples apples on
the the cream cream over over them, them, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with the
the almond almond and and chestnut mixture.' mixture.' Apples Apples ffamb6 flambé
au au kirsch kirsch (or (or other other liqueurs). liqueurs). PoMMES POMMES There
are rrmrmfrs FLAMBÉES AU AU KIRscH KIRSCH - There are two two ways ways of of
preparing preparing this Ihis dish. dish. a light, apples, peel 1. cooking apples,
1. Core cooking peel them them and and poach poach in in a light, timbale syrup.
Drain vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. Drain them, them, put put into
into a a silver silver timbale glass dish. Sprinkle with or or an an ovenproof aven
pro of china china or or glass dish. Sprinkle with kirsch, kirsch, just before
serving. heat, set alight heat, and and set alighl just before serving. a buttered
apples into and cored cored apples 2. Put 2. Put the the peeled peeled and into a
buttered dish. dish. slowly in and bake and melted sugar and Sprinkle with Sprinkle
with sugar melted butter, butter, and bake slowly in the oyen. oven. an ovenproof
or an a silver timbale or silver timbale apples to Transfer the Transfer the apples
to a ovenproof just alight just and set set alight glass dish, with kirsch, dish,
sprinkle sprinkle with china or or glass china kirsch, and before serving. alight
with with brandy, set alight also be be set can also Note. Apple Apple flambé
flamb6 can NOIe. brandy, quetsche, rum, any other other rum, or or any Calvados,
quetsche, raspberry eau-de-vie, Calvados, content. alcohol content. a high-degree
high-degree alcohol liqueur with with a liqueur FLAN. TART, FLAN. See TART, Apple
flan - See (sweet\ fritters. Dessert (sweel) FRITTERS, Dessert fritters See
FRITTERS, Apple fritters Apple fril/ers. - See r'rup6Rlcl.e,ctss À A L'IMPÉRAPoMMEs
GLACÉES glace Il I'imperatrice. POMMES Apples glacé i l'impératrice. Apples poached
in well in syrup syrup and and weil apples, poached TRIcE - Using Using dessert
dessert apples, TRICE d for Peaches Peaches à prepare as recipe for in the the
redpe as described described in drained, prepare drained, (see PEACHES). PEACHES).
I' impir at ice (see l'impératrice cut apples, eut Peel tart tart apples, gratin6.
POMMES cnlrrx6ns - Peel PoMMES GRATINÉES Apple gratiné. Apple keeping sYruP,
keeping vanilla-flavoured syrup, in vanilla-flavoured quarters, and cook in and
cook into quarters, into and dry. dry. Drain and firm. Drain fairly firm. them
fairly them sauce apple sauce layer of of apple a layer on a dish on in an an
ovenproof ovenproof dish Arrange in Arrange (see CHARLOTTE, Apple prepared as
CHARLOTTE, Apple as for for a a charlotte charlotte (see prepared sprinkle on top,
top, sprinkle macaroons on crushed macaroons some crushed Scatter sorne charloue).
Scatter charlolle). slow oyen. oven. in a a slow the top top in brown the and brown
melted butter, butter, and little melted with a a little with quarters and and cut
into into quarters also be be eut can also apples can this dish dish apples .l/ote.
For For this NOie. syrup. poached in in syrup. being poached instead of of being in
butter, butter, instead cooked in cooked

l|

JELLIESAND JELLlES. See JAMS JAMS AND Apple jelly - See ApplejeUy A LA LA PoMMEs À
AUx POMMES MoussE AUX la Chantilly. Chantilly. MOUSSE d la mousse Il Apple mousse
Apple vanilla-flavoured thick, vanilla-flavoured fine, thick, a very very fine,
Prepare a cHANTILLv -- Prepare CHANTILLY it on ice, (see below). and whisk whisk il
on ice, sauce and Cool the the sauce Apple sauce sauce (see below). Cool Apple sure
cream, making making sure thick cream, fresh thick adding to to it it a a few few
tablespoons tablespoons fresh adding glass into glass its consistency. Pour into
lose its consistency. Pour not lose mixture does does not that the the mixture that
piling it in a a dome. dome. it up up in goblets or fruit dish, dish, piling or a a
fruit goblets stiff. whisked stiff. cream, whisked whipped cream, with vanilla-
ftavoured vanilla-flavoured whipped Top with Top lux rounnfn AUX oMsl-errr FOURRÉE
normande. OMELETIE i la la normande. Apple omelette omelette à Apple poMMEs DITE in
the the Make the the omelette omelette in A LA LA NORMANDE NoRMANon -- Make otrn À
POMMES Just before before sugar. Just with sugar. sweetened with eggs sweetened
manner, using using eggs usual manner, usual sauce Apple sauce concentrated Apple
with concentrated omelette wilh filI the the omelette folding, fill folding, in
peeled, diced, cooked in diced, cooked (see bdow) apples, peeled, with tart taft
apples, or with below) or (sec or with with apple sauce, sauce, or with aa tittle
little apple mixed with and mixed and sugar, sugar, and butter and butter cream.
fresh cream. thick fresh thick

4l 41
APPLE-CORER APPLE-CO RER
Arrange the the omelette omelette on on a a long long dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle
with with sugar sugar Arrange glaze with andglaze glazing iron with a aglazing iron
or or with with aasalamander. salamander. and poMMES- Tbis pectin. JUS juice, which
Apple pectin. rus DE DE POMMES which has has aa Apple - This juice, strongly
viscous viscous consistency, consistency, is is used preparing Apple used for for
preparing Appte strongly jelly (see (see JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES). JELLIES).
je/ly jellies made It is is also preparing many also used used for for preparing
many other other jellies made of of It fruit with with too too higb high a a water
water content; content; without without su such addition an addition fruit ch an
jellies these jellies would would not not have have the the desired desired
consistency, consistency, and and these would run run the the risk risk of
fermenting. of ferrnenting. would juice does Added in proportions, apple in the the
rigbt right proportions, apple juice does not not alter alter Added the flavour
flavour of of other other fruit. fruit. the To obtain obtain about (4| pints,
juice, about 21 litres (4!pints, 51 2] litres pints) apple 5] pints) apple juice,
To cut 36 36 sound sound apples quarters, without apples in in quarters, peeling or
without peeling or coring coring cut peel and them, as as both both the the peel
provide a pips provide and the great deal the pips agreat deal of of them,
mucilaginous matter. matter. Put Put them them in pan with in a a copper copper pan
with 2 2 litres litres mucilaginous (3| pints, pints, 41 pints) water. 4{ pints)
paniioseiy water. Seal (hermetically, Seal the the pan (31 closely (hermetically,
possible) and if possible) and cook cook on (not too on sustained sustained heat
heat (not too brisk) brisk) until until if quarters become the apple apple quarters
become soft soft enough enough to 'give' easily to 'give' easily when when tbe
pressed with with a a finger. finger. pressed Pour the the fruit fruit into into a
a muslin muslin c10th cloth fixed fixed over over a a bowl bowl and and Pour juice
will leave for for sorne some time; time; the the juice will drip drip througb.
through. Do press Do not not press leave juice can fruit itself in the fruit in
order order to to hurry process. The hurry the the process. The juice can be be tbe
used as as indicated in in various various recipes. recipes. used The residue,
residue, i.e., i.e., the apple apple pulp left behind, behind, can can be be used
used for for The preparing Apple (se,e below) sauce (see paste, and Apple sauce
below) or or paste, and for for various various preparing sweet flans, flans.
loaves loaves and and soufflés. souffi6s. sweet pie Apple pie See PIE. Apple - See
pudding Apple pudding See PUDDING. PUDDING. Apple - See poMrrrrs GRATINÉES Apples
witb with rice. rice. POMMES cn.lrrufrs AU AU RIZ Rrz -- Prepare Apples (4 oz., ig.
(4 125 g. (see RICE). cup) rice rice as as for for Dessert rice rice (see RICE).
Put Put 125 ! cup) it into into an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish in in layers,
layers, alternating g. alternating with with 225 225 g. it (8 oz.) oz.) apples,
apples, sliced sliced and and cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Smooth Smooth the
(8 of the top rice layer, layer, and coyer quarters, cover with 10 l0 apple
quarters, surface of in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with crusbed crushed
macaroons and and a a cooked in tablespoon ofmelted of melted butter, and brown the
top. Serve Serve in in the the same dish, with kirsch-fla kirsch-flavoured SAUCE),
sa me dish, voured lpricot Apricol sauce (see SA UCE), separately. served separa
tely. poMMEs MERINGUÉES Apples with rice rice and and meringue. meringue. POMMES
MsnNcu6ns AU lu Apples with Rlz apple quarters in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-
flavoured syrup, syrup, or RIZ - Poach apple cook them in butter. Proceed described
for Apricols Apricots wilh with Proceed as described rice and meringue APRICOT).
meringue (see APRICOT). poMnaes À Apple la normande. normande. BoRDURE i, LA rA,
Apple dng ring i à la BORDURE oe DE POMMES NoRMANDE NORMANDE - Peel, Peel, core and
halve balve the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured cool in in the syrup,
then vanilla-flavoured syrup. Leave to cool drain on a flat fiat sieve until they
are dry. Prepare CUSTARD, Vanilla euslard), crème moulie moulée (see (see CUST ARD,
Vani//a Prepare a crime custard), flavouring flavouring with I 1 to to 2
tablespoons tablespoons Calvados Calvados (applejack), and cook it bain-marie
(q.v.) in a plain ring mould. mould. When it it rn in a bain-marue is is cold, turn
tum out the mould onto a dish. Fill the middle with the dry apple halves, piling
piling them up into a dome. Decorate with with firmly firmly whipped whipped cream
cream piped piped through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with a fluted nozzle.
Serve with Calvados-flavoured Apricol Calvados-flavoured Apricot sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). sauce (see Apple ring Brillat-Savarin. BoRDURE BORDURE DE poMMES POMMES
BRTLLATBRILLATSAVARIN SAVARIN - Fill Fill a savarin savarin (q.v.), (q.v.), steeped
steeped in in syrup syrup and flavoured flavoured with witb rum, rum, with stewed
apples which whicb have been mixed with rum-flavoured rum-fiavoured confectioner's
confectioner's custard custard (see (see CREAMS, CREAMS, French French pastry
paslry cream). cream). Poach Poach apple halves halves in vanilla-flavoured
vanilla-fiavoured syrup, drain drain well, weil, and and coat coat with with
reduced reduced apricot apricot pulp. pulp. Place Place these these on top top of
of the savarin fresh walnuts, savarin and decorate decorate with with halves ha
Ives of offresh walnuts, crystallised crystallised cherries of angelica. angelica.
Serve Serve with with rum-flavoured rum-flavoured cherries and and lozenges
lozenges of custard. custard. Apple RISSOLES DE DE poMMEs POMMES - Roll Roll out a
piece piece of Apple rissoles. rissoles. Rrssolrs Puff Puff pastry paslry (see (see
DOUGH) DOUGH) and and cut into little little circles circJes 8 to to 10 10 cm. cm.
(3 (3 to to 4 4 inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. Put Put a a tablespoon
tablespoon of of highly highly concentrated Apple sauce sauce (see (see below),
below), flavoured flavoured with with kirsch kirsch concentrated Apple (or (or any
any other other liqueur), liqueur), in in the the middle middle of of each each
circle. Fold the the pastry to toenclose enclose tbe thefilling filling completely,
completely, and andseal sealthe pastry theedges, edges, moistening tbem with water.
them with water. moistening Justbefore before serving, serving, fry fry in in
smoking-hot smoking-hot deep deepfat. Just fat. Drain Drain the rissoles rissoles
and and arrange arrange them them on folded napkins. the on folded napkins. Serve
Serve kirsch-flavoured Apricot (seeSAUCE). Apricot sauce sauce separately
separately (see kirsch-flavoured SAUCE). (or other Apple (or other fruit) fruit)
rissoles rissoles can prepared using canalso also be be prepared Apple using paste,
or lining paste, or ordinary ordinary brioche brioche dough, dough, and and can
Iining can be be made made in various various shapes. shapes. in poMMEs - Cook
Apple sauce. sauce. MARMELADE MARMELADEDE DEPOMMES quartered Apple - Cook quartered
apples in inaalittle little water water until until soft. soft. Pass Passthrough
through aastrainer. apples strainer. Add Add pinch of of salt salt and and enough
enoughsugar sugar to aa pinch to sweeten. sweeten. Boil Boildown down until until
juice improves thick. A A squeeze squeezeof of lemon lemon juice thick. improves
the thefiavour. flavour. poMMES - Prepare Apple soufflé. soufr6. SOUFFLÉ souFFLf
AUX Atrx POMMES Apple asdescribed described - Prepare as in the the recipe recipe
for for fruit fruit soufflés, pulp and in souffi6s, using apple pulp using apple
and cream. cream. (See SOUFFLÉS, SOUFFLES, Sweet Sweet souffiés.) (See souffiis.)

APPLE-CORER. VIDE-POMMES vmn-poMMEs -- Tube-shaped APPLE-CORER. Tube-shaped

implement implement for taking taking the the cores cores out out of for of apples.
apples. APPRET -- In In French French cookery APPR};T cookery this this word word
means means aa finished finished preparation. culinary preparation. culinary

APRICOT. ABRICOT ABRrcor -- Fruit APRICOT. Fruit of apricot tree, of the the
apricot tree, brought brought from Armenia Armenia into into Italy from Italy but
but not not widely widely k.nown known in in Europe Europe until the until the
fifteentb fifteenth century. century. justly famous The musk musk apricot, The
apricot, justly famous for for its its succulent succulent flesh, flesh, is found
found in in the the south south of is of France, France, Algeria Algeria and and
Spain. Spain. In Auvergne, Auvergne, another another much In much prized prized
variety variety of of apricot apricot is is cultivated for for tbe quality of the
high high quality cultivated jam which produced from which is is produced ofjam
from it. it. Among the the best varieties of Among of apricot best varieties
apricot is is clingstone, clingstone, a a species species of apricot apricot with
with white white flesh of flesh wbich which adheres adheres to to the the stone. It
has has stone. It a somewhat somewhat tart a tart flavour. flavour. Peach Peach
apricot, apricot, a a choice choice fruit, fruit, is is much sought sought after
after for much for the the delicacy delicacy of of its its flesh; flesh; it it is
is fragrant, fragrant, juicy and and sweet. juicy sweet. Apricots are Apricots are
one one of of the pdtisserie. most used fruits most the fruits used in in
pâtisserie. They are are used Tbey in a used in a number number of preparations,
including of preparations, including sweet sweet courses and and confectionery.
courses confectionery. They They also also make make excellent excellent tarts,
tarts, as as well as weIl as delicious compotes compotes and and jellies. Compotes
can can be be made made from green preserved preserved apricots, from green
apricots, which peeled before being which should should be be peeled being bottled.
Varieties of apricots apricots (Ptpiniire G (Pépinière G De/bard) Delbard) The
early Boulbon Boulbon apricot

apncots Luizet apricots Luizet

Nancy peach peach apricot apricot Nancy

42 42
APRICOT APRICOT
Apricots Apncots iil I'ancienne. l'ancielllle. ABRIcors ABRICOTS A À t'lNctBNNs
L'ANCIENNE - Halve Halve large large apricots, apricots, remove rem ove the the
stones, stones, and and poach poach in in vanillavanillaflavoured of sponge sponge
cake cake soaked soaked l'lavoured syrup. Arrange Arrange on on a a layer layer of
in and coated coated with with a layer layer of of apple apple sauce. sauce.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with with in rum rum and chopped in the the chopped almonds,
almonds, sugar and and a a little little melted melted butter. butter. Put Put in
oven oyen to to set. Serve Serve with apricot apricot jam jam diluted in in a
little lillle water, water, strained strained and and laced !aced with with rum.
r\lm. Apricot Apncor barquettes barquettes - See BARQUETTES. BARQUEITES. Apricot
Apricot bombe. bombe. BoMBE BOMBE ABRIcoTINE ABRICOTll\.'E - Line Line a mould
mould with with chocolate ice cream. Fill fil! with with Mousse Mousse (bombe\
(bombe) mixture (see (see chocolate ice ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES), fCES),
flavoured flavoured with with apricot brandy brandy purée. or apricot pur€e.
Apricot Apricot bouchdes. bouchées. soucH6Es BOUCHÉES i À L'.nnnlcot L'ABRICOT -
These cakes can be made made with with either Genoese Genoese or sponge batter,
batter, and are can be filled and coated coated with with apricot apricot jam. jam.
Ingredients.250 Ingrediems. 250 g. (9 (9 oz.,generous OZ., generous cup) cup) fine
fine sugar, sugar, 8 8 whole whole eggs, eggs, 200 g. (7 oz.,l| OZ., li cups)
sieved flour, 200 g. (7 (7 oz., I ~ cup plus 2 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) best
best butter, a a small glass of kirsch or rum. Method. Melhod. Beat Beat the sugar
sugar and the the eggs in a copper bowl on a low heat, or or over over hot water.
water. When the mixture mixture becomes pale, pale, light and frothy, blend in
carefully carefully the sieved flour and the melted butter (to (to which which the
Ihe chosen chosen flavouring flavouriog has has been melted butter added). added).
Pour Pour the mixture mixture into into shallow shallow round round moulds (cake
(cake or muffin tins) filling filliug up to three-quarters. Cook for about 20 cool.
When minutes in a slow oven. oyen. Turn out and allow a/1ow to ta cool. a thin
sharp quite bouchée in half with a sha rp knife, knife, qui te cold, eut cut each
bouchde kirsch-flavoured ta avoid crumbling crumbling the sponge. Spread with
kirsch-ftavoured to bouchies together the bouchées sandwich the jam, then then
sandwich together again. apricot jam, jam and all and coat the sides ail Brush with
concentrated apricot jam round with chopped roasted almonds. almonds. Decorate
Decorate the the tops glaal cherry. a glacé with half a Cook 16 I. ABRICOTS mntcors
BoLIRDALoTJE Bourdaloue l. BOURDALOUE Apricots Bourdalure - Cook Remove, vanilla-
flavoured syrup. Remove, light vanilla-flavoured halves in in a light apricot
halves two-thirds a shallow ovenproof dish two-Ihirds in a drain and and arrange in
2 egg in milk milk and and bound with semolina cooked in filled filled wilh bound
with with 2 semolira pudding). SEMOLINA, English semo/ina pudding). yolks (see
SEMOLlNA, sprinkle Coyer Cover the apricots with a light layer of semolina,
sprînkle of a teaspoon teaspoon of and a wÎlh with the crumbs of 2 crushed
macaroons and oven for a few minutes fine powdered sugar. Put in a very hot aven to
glaze the top. to jam (apricot jam sauce (apricot and kirsch kirsch sauce with an
apricot and Serve wilh an apricot which the the apricots apricots were in which
syrup in with the the syrup down with thinned thinned down a tablespoon of kirsch).
and laced with a cooked, strained and BouRDALour -- Cook Cook II. ABRICOTS lnnlcors
BOURDALOUE Apricots Bourdaloue Bourdaloue ll. on a a layer of of in syrup, halve
them, and place on apricots lightly in in an an ovenproof ovenproof 1-
1'I7Y10',nt7Y1P cream cream (see FRANGIPANE) in Frangipane flan shell. shell. dish
or or on on a a flan dish and butter, and and melted melted butter, macaroons and
with crushed crushed macaroons Sprinkle with Sprinkle and kirsch sauce sauce as as
glaze in an apricot apricot and Serve with an in the the oyen. oven. Serve glaze
above. above.
(apricot comftts). ABRIcors comfits). ABRICOTS apricob (apricot or crystallised
crystallised aprlcots Candied Candied or size. of unifonn uniform size. firm white
apricots, apricots, of very firm Choose very - Choose the stalk. stalk. end to to
the at the the opposite end a ligbt light incision at Make a full of cold of cold a
ume, time, in a copper pan full few at at a Put them. them, a a few Put water, are
""'''''M.I",t,,..hl completely covered. Place the pan water, so so Ihat that they
they are the surface, surface, rise to to the as the apricots apricots rise low
l'lame. As saon soon as a low flame. As over over a perforated spoon and feel feel
spoon and with a a perforated the water with take them them out out of of the take
this is is the the softened; this thoroughly softened; see if if they they are are
thoroughly them la to see them operation. blanching operation. Ul"',"'w,WlI!',
which water, which 12 hours hours in in cold cold watcr, for 12 apricots for Soak
the apricots hours. should be be changed changed every every 2 2 hours. should
water, to l.i lf cups water, sugar to I cup cup sugar syrup: 1 Prepare the the
following following syrup: Prepare this SUGAR). Pour this 18" by a syrup gauge (see
SUGAR). to 18° by a boiled boiled ta put have becn been put which have the drained
apricots, which syrup over over the boiling boiling syrup high pan. Bring over a a
high boil over Bring to to the the boil in the back in the copper copper pan. back
flame. Rame.
coNFITs CONFITS 43 43

Decant Decant the the apricots apricots and and syrup syrup into into an an
earthenware earthenware bowl bowl and and leave leave overnight. overnight. Next
drain the the apricots apricots and and boil bail the the syrup syrup (it (it
should should Next day, day, drain not be above above l2o 12~ on on the the syrup
syrup gauge). Add Add + t cup sugar, and and not be bring ISO on on the the syrup
gauge. When it is boiling, add add bring up up to to 18' the the apricots,
apricots, bring bring again again to to the boil, and return to the earthenware is
called called 'grving 'giving a a dressing'.) dressing'.) ware bowl. bowL (This
(This operation is Continue to give give a a dressing dressing in in this this
manner manner every every other other day. day. Continue to When by 6' 6c each each
time. time. Add Add sugar sugar When boiling, boiling, bring bring the the syrup up
up by and and boil boil down down when when there there is too too much much sYruP,
syrup, which which must, must, however, however, completely completely cover caver
the the fruit fruit each each time. time. When it comes up up to to 30' 30~
(average (average syrup syrup density) - that that is, is, When it after after the
tbe third third dressing dressing - do do not not bring bring it il up up by more
more than than 4o, 4° and and give give the the dressings dressîngs only only every
3 days. Proceed in in this manner 36° (moderately (moderately thick). thick).
manner until uoti! the syrup reaches 36' Stone the apricots by by inserting
inserting a a copper copper needle needle at at the the stalk end and pushing the
the stone stone towards towards the the incision incision made made at at the the
beginning of the operation. operation. Some Sorne of of the the apricots may may
not not look as good as damaged as the rest, rest, perhaps perhaps by being
slightly damaged during the stoning Cut these these into into small pieces pieces
and and stoning process. process. Cut stuff them into the the rest of of the the
apricots apricots to to keep them them in in a a round an earthenware bowl. round
shape. Lay them in in an Bring the syrup to the the boil, bail, check the degree
degree (36'), (36'), and and pour pour it, iL, still boiling, over the apricots.
Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Spoon Spoon the apricots apricots and syrup into into
jars jars and cover with with greaseproof greaseproof paper, as you would would
jam. jam. Keep the jars in in a a cool, dry dry place. place. apricot comfits in
Candied apricots or or apricot in brandy. brandy, ABRIcors ABRICOTS apricots of
Choose very small, firm coNFITs A CONf1TS À t'eAU-or-vIEL'EAU-DE-VlE - Choosc firm
apricots of as described uniform unifonn size. sue. Blanch Blanch them them as
described in in the the recipe recipe for for cold water candied apricots above.
Soak them an hour, hour, candied them in in cold water for for an syrup, which
drain, and put them them in syrup, which should be be brought up to to at this the
syrup at 25'(see them in the Ihîs degree for 25° (see SUGAR). Leave them jars. Fill
put them into and put 4 days, days, then drain, and inta preserving preserving
jars. Fill with the following mixture: withthe (lf, pints, pints, I litre candied,
1 in which the Syrup in the fruit fruit was was candied, litre (Ii Syrup generous
quart). (lf pints, pints, generous generous litre (li of 90", I tasteless, of90",
Neutral l litre Neutral alcohol, tasteless, quart). quart). pod, or vanilla essence
essence or lI teaspoon teaspoon vanilla of vallilla vanilla pad, Add a piece of per
2 litres 2 litres or kirsch kirsch per cup) rum or I dl. scant ~ or 1 dl. (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant or I cup) jars ($ pints, quarts) liquid. well. When
When the the jars Mix weIl. pints, generous generous 2 liquid. Mix 2 quarts) or
with with tops, or with their their special special tops, them with have been
filled, filled, seal seal tbem cork lids. humiprotected both from heat heat and and
humiboth from in a cool place, protected Keep în ready for for use. use. fruit will
will he be ready the fruit At the end end of one month the dity. At (r, (petit
fours). nnntcors (À fous). ABRICOTS brandy (petit in brandy apricots ln Caramel
IIprÎCots Caramel preserved apricots apricots as as Drain the preserved cARAMET AU
CARAMEL L'EAU-DE-vIE) AU L'EAU-DE-VIE) - Drain below). apricots (see below). for
Cryszallised Crystallised apricols recipe for in the described in the recipe
descrihed one by dip them, one by gum arabic, powdered gum arabic, then then dip in
powdered Roll them them in Roll (see SUGAR). SUGAR). stage (see crack stage in
sugar cooked cooked to to crack one, in one, marble slab, slab, and and slightly
oiled on a a slightly oiled marble carefully on Space them them carefully Space
paper cases. cases. quite dry, put them into flulcd fluted paper them into when
they they are are quite when Fruit charJol/es. charlottes. Apricot charlotte
charlotte Apricot - See CHARLOTTE, Fruit Halve the the apricots, apricots, coLBERT
-- Halve ABRIcors COLBERT Colbert apricots. apricots. ABRICOTS Colbert light syrup
fruit in in a a light the fruit and poach the remove the the stones, stones, and
remove gently l'rom to (flavoured with from 8 to Simmer genlly with vanilla, if
desired). Simmer (ftavoured fruit. Cool. ripeness of of the Cool. the fruit. on the
the ripeness 10 rnjnutes, minutes, depending on 10 a fcw few in a a fruit fruit
dish; dish; add add a apricots in To serve, serve, arrange arrange the apricots To
pour it it over over the fruit. syrup and the fruit. the syrup and pour kirsch to
to the drops of of kirsch drops To be peeled. Ta halved apricots can can be the
halved For this compote the this compote For halves for a a few few dip the apricot
halves the operation easier, dip make the operation easier, make by adding adding
Flavour the compote compote by water. Flavour into boiling water. seconds into
seconds from the the have been been extracted extracted from which have kernels
which few of it a a few of the the kernels to it and blanched. blanched. apricot
stones, stones, and See COMPOTE. COMPOTE. Apricot comlnte -- See (old recipe).
ABRICOTS coNof -- Cook Cook ABRIcors CONDÉ Apricots Conde (old Apricots (q.v.) on a
a savarin savarin (q.v.) arrange on in syrup. apricots in syrup. Drain, arrange
halved apricots halved with kirsch. kirsch. flavoured with syrup flavoured apricot
syrup and top with apricot top with and
APRICOT APRICOT
Garnish the middle of the middle savarin with of the the savarin with aamixture
mixtureof g. of25 25g. Garnish (l oz., oz., i* cup) cup) cornmeal cornmeal or or
maize maize ftour flourcooked cooked in inaa double double (1 (lI pints, boiler
with with scant pints, 4 scant litre litre O-!4cups) cups)scalded, scalded,
sweetened, sweetened, boiler

vanilla-flavoured milk, milk, until until thick. thick. Dilute Dilute the the
mixture mixture with with vanilla-ftavoured cream. Make Make little little cork-
shaped cork-shaped croquettes croquettes from from the the corn corn cream. meal or
maize Hour or maize flour mixture, mixture, and place them and place round the them
round the meal savarin. savarin. Apricots Condé Cond6I. ABRrcors CONnÉ coNpf --
Fill Fill three-quarters three-quarters of ofaa Apricots J. ABRICOTS (see RICE).
shallow fireproof dish with with Dessert fireproof dish Dessert rice rice (see
RICE). Cook Cook shallow apricot halves halves in in syrup, syrup, drain, drain,
and and arrange arrange them themon on the the rice. rice. apricot glac€ cherries
Decorate with with glacé cherries and and angelica angelica cut cut into into
lozenges. lozenges. Decorate Heat thoroughly thoroughly in in the the oyen, oven,
and and serve servewith with Apricot Apricot and and Heat (see SA kirsch sauce
sauce (see SAUCE). kirsch UCE).

CREAMS). Sprinkle Sprinkle the apricots with theapricots withfine finesugar glaze
sugarand andglaze CREAMS). inaavery veryhot hotoyen. oven. in Whenready ready to
toserve, serve,add addto dishaafew tothe fewtablespoons thedish tablespoons of of
When apricotsauce sauce laced lacedwith with kirsch. kirsch. apricot Apricob flambé
flambe in inkirsch. kirsch. ABRICOTS ABRrcors FLAMBÉS rL,qMsEsAU AUKIRSCH Apricots
KrRscH- Cook apricots apricots in insyrup, syrup, drain, drain, halve put22or
halvethem, them, and andput Cook ot33 halves into into individual individual
fireproof fireproof dishes. dishes. Add Addto toeach eachdish dish22 halves (3
tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons)of inwhich of the thesyrup syrupin
tablespoons which the the apricots were were cooked, cooked, blended blendedwith
withsorne somecornftour cornflour or apricots or point. arrowroot. Heat Heat to
toboiling boiling point. arrowroot. pour into When ready ready to toserve, serve,
pour intoeach When eachdish dishaateaspoon teaspoonof of kirsch and andset set it
italight. alight. kirsch Apricotflan flan -- See SeeTA TART. R T. Apricot
Apricotfritters fritters-- See FRITTERS. SeeFRITTERS. Apricot Apricotice icecream
ICE CREAMS cream -- See See ICE Apricot AND ICES. ICES. CREAMS AND Apricots à
l'imp6rahice 1. i l'impératrice Apricots I. ABRICOTS ,rnnrcors ÀA L'IMPÉRATRICE
L'rMpERArRrcE- Three-quarters fill fill aa dessert dessert dish dishwith Three-
quarters with Rice Rice àdl'impératrice l'impiratrice (see RICE). RICE). Set place,
on Set in inaacold possible.Cook (see cold place, ice,if onice, if possible. Cookaa
dozen apricots apricots in inaasugar sugar syrup dozen syrupftavoured flavoured
with with vanilla, vanilla, drain drain well, halve halve the the apricots,
apricots, and weil, andarrange arrangethem them in inaacircle circleon onthe the
jelly (see rice. Top Top them them with with aacoating rice. coating of (seeJAMS of
redcurrant redcurrant jelly JAMS jelly). Decorate AND JELLlES, JELLIES, Currant AND
Curuant jelly). Decorate with with cherries cherriesand and lozenges of lozenges of
angelica. angelica. Keep Keep on on ice iceuntil until ready ready to toserve,
serve, then then put the the dish dish on put larger one onaalarger one covered
covered with with aanapkin, napkin,and andsursurround with with crushed round
crushed ice. ice.

Apricots Condé (Scarnati) Cond6 (Scarnali) Apricots

Apricob Condé lsnrcors CONDÉ Cond6 II. II. ABRICOTS coNo6 -- Arrange the Apricots
the apricot apricot (see RICE). halves on a a ring of Dessert rice (see RICE). Stud
Stud the apricots apricots

with halved, almonds, and and decorate glaci with halved, blanched almonds,
decorate with with glacé cherries angelica. Heat through in cherries and lozenges
of ange!ica. in the the oyen oven (see SAUCE). ond kirsch sauce (see and serve with
Apricot Apricot and SAUCE). Apricot coupe See ICE CREAMS AND ICES. - See Apricot
crofite. cno0rB AUX AUx ABRICOTS croûte. CROÛTE ABRrcors -- Arrange Arrange a a
dozen dozen or so slices of savarin in a circle on a dish, s!ices of dish. as
described in the the recipe recipe for Fruit crofites croûtes (see CROÛTES)
CROUTES) replacing the pineapple slices by a layer of apricot jam spread by a
spread evenly evenly on on the savarin slices. slices. Cook halved apricots in
syrup, drain them, and and lay them on on the the savarin savarin slices. Decorate
Decorate with with crystallised fruit. fruit. Heat in the the oven oyen and serve
with with Apricot and kirsch sauce or Madeira sauce SA U CE). sauce (see SAUCE).
Crystallised apricob apricots in brandy (petits fours). Crystallised (a forns).
ABRICOTS mnrcors (À L'EAU-DE-vrr) L'EAU-DE-VIE) cnrsr.lrrrsfs CRISTALLISÉS - Use
Use apricots which which have have been been preserved (see Candied Candied
apricots in preserved in brandy (see in brandy). brandy). Lay Lay fiat sieve sieve
and drain for 2 hours. hours. Melt a the apricots on a flat a little water. Put the
apricots in a !ittle gum arabic in water. a bowl and pour the the gum arabic over
them, them, a a little at time, gently at a a time, shaking the the bowl until
until all ail the apricots apricots are coated. coated. shaking Remove them, them,
one one at a time, with cooking cooking tongs, tongs, and roll Remove them in in
crystallised sugar. sugar. Leave Leave for an hour on a them a wire cake cake
sieve, and when when they they are quite dry arrange them in paper sieve, cases.
cases. la diable. ABRrcors ABRICOTS A À r,c, LA otesr.r DIAELE - Spread Apricots ià
la Apricots - Spread the ftat sides sides of of 8 8 large large macaroons macaroons
with a layer of apricot jam flat ftavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Place Place
them on a fireproof fireproof dish dish in a a flavoured circle. circle. Cook the
the same sa me number number of of apricots apricots in in syrup, drain, halve Cook
and place place 2 2 halves halves on on each macaroon. macaroon. Spread Spread over
over them, and them, them a a few few teaspoons teaspoons of Praline Praline
castard custard crectm cream (see (see them
44 44

Apricots Apricots à d l'impératrice I'imp€ratrice Il II

Apricots 'IMPÉRA TRICE Apricots à I'imp6ratrice II. i l'impératrice II. ABRICOTS

asnrcors À AL L'rMpfRATRrcE Prepare (see RICE) Prepare Rice à d l'impératrice
l'impiratrice (see RICE) in in a a charlotte charlotte mould. mould. Turn it out
into a shallow fruit bowl and arrange on it a Turn it out into a shallow fruit bowl
and arrange on it a syrup and circle circle of halved apricots, of halved apricots,
cooked cooked in· in'syrup and drained. drained. Decorate with glacé glac€ cherries
cherries and lozenges of and lozenges of angelica. angelica. This This method of
presentation may may be be applied applied to to ail all fruit fruit desserts
desserts à d l'impératrice. I'impiratrice. The Id, tumed The rice rice can can also
also be be served served in in a a savarin savarin mou mould, turned out onto onto
a a dish, dish, the the centre centre filled filled with with cooked, cooked.
drained drained half half apricots. jam Apricot Apricot jan See JAMS JAMS AND AND
JELLIES. JELLIES. - See Apricot Apricot omelette.· omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX
AUX ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- See See EGG, EGG, Omelette: Jam andfruit Omelette: Jarn
andfruit omelette. omelette. Apricot oreillons. Apricot oreillons. OREILLONS
D'ABRrcors oRETLLoNS D'ABRICOTS Halved apricots apricots - Halved are ca lied
Apricot Apricot oreillons. called oreillons. They They are are bottled bottled in
in water water or or a a sugar syrup. sugar syrup. Apricot pudding. pudding.
POUDING Apricot eouorNc AUX Aux ABRICOTSABRrcors - See See PUDDING, PUDD I NG,
Fruit pudding. Fruit
ARCHESTRATUS ARCHESTRATUS
in Danube, and and the the common common apron, apron, which which abounds abounds
in in in the the Danube,
Only Only two two species species of of apron apron are are known, known, one one
which which is is found found

the Rhône and and all ail its its tributaries. tributaries. the Rhdne The The apron
apron rarely rarely exceeds exceeds 18 18 cm. cm. (7 (7 inches) inches) in in
length. length. The The upper upper part part of of its its body body is is
yellowish yellowish brown brown streaked streaked with with down obliquely darkish
darkish bands bands or or stripes, stripes, which which extend extend obliquely
down its its sides. is a a greyish greyish white, white, its its fins fins are are
yellow yellow spotted spotted sides. Its Its belly belly is with with grey. grey.
Its Its flesh flesh is is very very succulent succulent and and resembles resemb1es
that that of of perch, perch, and and it it is is much much appreciated appreciated
by by gastronomes. gastronomes. For For culinary culinary preparation preparation
see see PERCH. PERCH.

Aprico! omelette omelette Apricot

ARAB ARAB COOKERY COOKERY - See See ALGERIA. ALGERIA . comshellfish comARAPEDE
ARAPEDE - French French name name for for a a univalve univalve shellfish way as as
same way monly found found in in Provence. Provence. It It is is prepared prepared
in in the the same
cockles. cockles.

Apricot sauce sauce - See See SAUCE, Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Apricot
Apricot sorff6 soufflé - See See SOUFFLES, SOUFFLÉS, Sweet souffiis. soufflés.
Apricot Apricots preserved preserved in in syrup. syrup. coNsERvE CONSERVE
D'ABRICors D'ABRICOTS AU Apricots Compote of SIROP - The The procedure procedure is
is exactly the the same as for Compote asfor slRop Preserved fruit fruit in in
comapricots in syrup (see COMPOTE, Preserved pote). pote). Apricots preserved au au
naturel. naturel. coNsERvE CONSERVE D'AsnIcots D'ABRICOTS AU Apricots NATUREL -
Pack the the apricots apricots into preserving jars jars without NATUREL adding
either either water or sugar. Screw on the lids Iids and sterilise adding (194°F.).
90'C. (194'F.). for 15 to 20 minutes at 90°C. ABRICOTS AU RIz RIZ - Cook Apricots
with rice. ABRIcors I cup rice in Cook 1 Apricots sweetened milk milk which has
been been flavoured with vanilla. 2 cups sweetened 2 Place in a fruit dish. Cook
halved a sugar syrup, halved apricots in a stone them, and arrange arrange on the
bed bed of few rice. Add Add a a few of rice. on the stone them, and tablespoons of
apricot sauce, if desired . Serve hot or cold. Serve hot desired. tablespoons
Apricots with rice and meringue. ABRICOTS lu nsnNcuEs AU ABRIcors MERINGUÉS
Apricots (see RIZ - Cook rice (see (4 oz., 1 as for g. (4 for Dessert rice rice as
125 g. cup) rice ntz f cup) - Cook 125 dish. an ovenproof ovenproof dish. on an a
thick thick layer on RICE) and and arrange arrange it in a Cook a with flavoured
with syrup flavoured a sugar syrup a dozen or so apricots in a vanilla, halve and
in a a circle circle the halves in them. Arrange the and stone them. on the (q.v.),
smoothing the sursursmoothing the rice. Coyer the rice. Cover with meringue (q.v.),
face. edge. piped round round the the edge. meringue piped face. Decorate with
meringue Sprinkle oven, in a a moderate moderate oyen, sugar and and bake bake in
with icing icing sugar Sprinkle with raising to last moment moment to the last at
the to very very hot hot at raising the the temperature to make the golden brown.
decorate baked, decorate When baked, the meringue golden brown. When the redcurrant
piped edge and redcurrant little apricot apricot and with a further with a 1ittle
the piped edge further jelly, jelly, alternating served is usually usually served
This dessert dessert is colours. This alternating the the colours. hot, be served
served cold. cold. hot. but it it can can also also be Pineapple, pears and
peaches, pears apples and apples cherries, peaches, Pineapple, bananas, bananas,
cherries, can preshould preThe fruit prepared in fruit should same manner. manner.
The in the the same can be be prepared viously in stewed in poached in syrup or or
stewed in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup viously be be poached butter;
le, halved, slices, or or diced. diced. whole, halved, in in slices, used who it
can butter; it can be be used Apricot TARTLET. TART, TARTLET. See TART, Apricot
tarts tarb and ta;tleb -- See and ta.rtlets

(Franche-Comte) which which Jura (Franche-Comté) small town ARBOIS ARBOIS - A A

small town in in the the Jura ros€ red and and rosé white, red esteemed white, has
given its to highly highly esteemed its name to (See FRANCHE-COMTE.) wines. (See
FRA NCHE-COMTÉ.) La Here is is La popular dessert. dessert' Here most popular a
most Once a ARBOLADE ARBOLADE - Once pan and add and add in a a pan little butter
butter in 'Melt a a little for it: it: 'Melt Varenne's recipe for juice, sugar
pinch of salt. Cook Cook of salt. a pinch and a pear juice, sugar and yolks of of
egg, egg, pear yolks pale a pale Colour a water. Colour flower water. with flower
sweeten with then sweeten iogether, together, then green and and serve.' a apple, a
cane apple, the cane of the Fruit of ARBousE -- Fruit ARBUTUS BERRY. ARBOUSE parts
of of southern parts profusion in in the the southern in profusion found in is
found shrub which is Canary the Canary and the Europe and southern Europe Mexico,
southern America, Mexico, North America, North Islands. parts of southern of
southern grown in some parts in some is grown which is shrub, which This shrub,
Thls strawas strawknown as also known is also Languedoc, is in the the Languedoc,
mainly in France, mainly France, its of its and colour colour of shape and to the
the shape name to this name It owes owes this tree. It berry tree. its neither its
has neither but has strawberry but the strawberry resembles the which resembles
fruit, which fruit, flesh. its melting melting fiesh. nor its scent nor scent and
wine and of wine suppliers main su the main are the Algeria and A Spain and Italy,
1 taly, Spain Igeria are ppliers of berry. arbutus berry. the arbutus from the
distilled from spirits distilled spirits yields aa also yields berry also this
berry fruit of of this the fruit spirits, the wine and and spirits, Besides wine
Besides of reputation of has the the reputation which has d'arbouse, crime d called
crème liqueur called 'arhouse, which liqueur digestion. helpful to to digestion.
being helpful being and are sweet, sweet, and they are ripe; they when ripe; fleshy
when very fleshy are very Tde berries beiries are The to be astrinbeastrinreputed
to They are are reputed after-taste. They acid after-taste. faintly acid a faintly
have a have gent and diuretic. and diuretic. gent

arch.lts known as asarch. commonly known mollusc commonly A bivalve bivalve mollusc
ARCA -- A Its ARCA the allthe found on onail are found colour, are rather aadark
dark colour, which are are of of rather shells, which shells, France. of France.
coasts coasts of wayas as' prepared in thesame sameway in the raw or or prepared
eaten raw mollusc is iseaten This mollusc This mussels. mussels. of southernshores
onthe situated on town,situated ARCACHON-This ARCACHON - This town, the southern
shores of (aninlet isdear dear Biscay), is Bayof ofBiscay), theBay inlet of ofthe
d'Arcachon (an Bassin d'Arcachon the Bassin the for ofoysters, oysters,for lovers
of gastronomes and and lovers of gastronomes heartof the heart to to the (andfor
for beds(and oysterbeds magnificent oyster for its itsmagnificent isfamous famous
for Arcachon Arcachon is particular). gravettes in particular). 'tes in its
itsgraVé of speciesof givenin toaaspecies Lorraine to inLorraine Namegiven
ARCAI'TEITE ARCANETTE -- Name from andfrom tealand froman anordinary ordinary teal
Itdiffers differs from local teal. teal.It small small local inits its foundin
isfound andis migrate, notmigra garganey in doesnot inthat thatititdoes garganey
te, and swift' butswift. shortbut Itsflight flightisisshort yearround. round.Its
theyear native landail allthe native land species twospecies thetwo shooting,the
likeduck duckshooting, islike Arcanette shootingis Arcanetteshooting being
behaviour. ofsimilar similarbehaviour. beingof much andmuch excellentand ofteal
tealisisexcellent speciesof thisspecies The Theflesh fleshof ofthis compared
becompared canbe gastronomes. In Intaste tasteititcan bygastronomes. appreciated
appreciated by preparation see DUCK. see For culinarypreparation duck. with .
Forculinary DUCK. withthat thatofwild of wildduck
ARCA. ARCH SeeARCA ARCH- -See

APRJCOTING. in used in This .is the the term term used ,c,nntcorER -- Thisis
APRICOTING. ABRICOTER pâtisserie in covering covering consists in which consists
pdtisserie to operation which to define define the the operation a cake or which
has has been been layer ofapricotjam of apricotjam which sweet with with a a thin
thin layer acake or sweet boiled with liqueur, liqueur, flavoured with down to
thick consistency, consistency,flavoured boileit down to aa thick and passed
through fine strainer. strainer. and passed through aa fine

Apron Apron

APRON body elongated body rounded,elongated withaarounded, fish,with A small

smallfish, APRON - - A covered the flattened,the headisisflattened, Itshead scales.
Its rough scales. withvery veryrough covered with snout th , its placedat at
finsare areplaced protrudes above mouth, itsdorsal dorsalfins itsmou aboveits snout
protrudes aadistance large. gillslits arelarge. slitsare itsgill eachother,
other,its distancefrom fromeach 45 45

ANGELICA' SeeANGELICA. ARcHANGfLIQUE - -See ARCHANGELICA. ARCHAI\GELICA.

ARCHANGÉLIQUE
was s.c.,who who 350 poetof of about350 Greekpoet ARCHESTRATUS about B.e., was
ARCHFSTRATUS- -Greek of authorof was the Hewas said.He gastronome,ilitisissaid.
greatgastronome, the author aa a avery verygreat
(AL') ARCHIDUC (À L') ARCHIDUC
work in verse, Gasfronomy, of which only a few short fragwork in verse,
Gaslrol1omy, of which only a rew short fragments have survived. ments have
survived. Archestratus was born, it is believed, in Athens, although Archestratus
was born, it is believed, in Athens, although say in Gela, an ancient town in
southern Sicily; and he lome say sorne in Gela, an ancient town in southern Sicily,
and he lived for long time in Syracuse. He was chiefly renowned lived for aalong
time in Syracuse. He was chiefly renowned for the numerous voyages he he made made
to to colleet collect notes notes on on for the numerous voyages culinary methods
and the eating habits of different nations. culinary methods and the eating habits
of different nations. Archestratus is sometimes referred to as a cook. From the
Archestratus is sometimes referred to as a cook. From the writings of authors of
the time it is apparent that he was more writings ofauthors of the time it is
apparent that he was more of a gastronome and an able wdter, not a cookery
technician. ofa gastronome and an a bic writer, not a cookery technician. He can be
described as the Brillat-Savarin of his time. He can be described as the Brillat-
Savarin of his time. The most reliable data we have concerning this poetThe most
reliable data we have concerning this poetgastronome comes from Deipnosophistai or
Specialists in gastronome cornes from Deipnosophistai or Specialisls in Dining by
Athenaeus, a work translated into French from Dining by Athenaeus, a work
translated into French from the Latin text by Michel de Marolles in 1680. There we
find the Latin text by Michel de Marolles in 1680. There we find all that pertains
to gastronomy, gastronomy, food production, cookery ail that pertains to food
production, cookery and ceremonial banquets. and ceremonial banquets. Here is what
Barth€lemy, inspired by Athenaeus, says of Here is what Barthélemy, inspired by
Athenaeus, says of Archestratus: Archestrat us: 'This author was a friend of one of
pericles' sons. He a friend of one of Perieles' sons. He 'This author was crossed
many lands and seas to find out for himself what was crossed many lands and seas to
find out for himself what was the best they had to offer. In his voyages he did not
study the the hest they had to otfer. In his voyages he did not study the customs
and manners of peoples, which it is useless to study customs and manners of
peoples, which it is useless to study since it is impossible to change them, but
went into the since it is impossible to change them, but went into the places where
the delights of the table were manufactured, places wbere tbe delights of the table
were manufactured, and had no dealings except with people who catered for and had
no dealings except with people who eatcred for these pleasures. His poem is a
shining treasure, and does not these pleasures. His poem is a shining treasure, and
does not contain a single verse which is not a plea for gastronomy.' contain a
single verse which is nol a plea for gastronomy.' ARCHIDUC (A L') - A term applying
to a great number of ARCHIDUC (À V) - A lerm applying 10 a great number of
preparations. Dishes d I'archiduc are usually seasoned with preparations. Dishes à
l'archiduc are usually seasoned with paprika and blended with cream. (See EGGS;
CHICKEN. paprika and blended with cream. (Sec EGGS; CHICKEN, Chicken sauti Ar
chduke.') Chicken sauté Archduke.) purptsh-red (Orchif Dyer's moss). ARCHIL moss).
ORSEILLE oRsETLLE ARCHIL (Orcbil, Dyer's - Purplish-red paste made from lichen,
used as colouring matter. It is paste made [rom lichen, used as colouring matter.
lt is mainly used for tinting pickled tongue - langue d l,icarlate. mainly used for
tinting pickled tongue -langue à l'écarlate. ARDENNAISE (A L') - A term applying
mostly to dishes of ARDENNAlSE (À V) - A term applying mostly to dishes of small
birds cooked in a cocotte with juniper berries. (See small birds cooked in a
cocolle with juniper berries. (See
someresemblance resemblance to peacock, and tothe thepeacock, andis isround found
in inJava Java and and sorne Sumatra. Sumatra. The flesh flesh of ofargus pheasant
is argus pheasant is very verydelicate. delicate. Ail All the the The preparation
given methods of of preparation given for pheasant (q.v.) for pheasant (q.v.)are
are also methods also applicable to pheasant. argus pheasant. toargus applicable

ARIDGE -- The The Ariège Aridge dépanemenl dipartemenl of of France, France,

situated situated on on ARIÈGE theSpanish Spanish frontier frontier between between
Haute-Garonne Haute-Garonne in inthe thewest westand and tbe Pyrdn€es-Orientales in
in the the east, east, is is chiefly chiefly famous famous for for the the
Pyrénées-Orientales mineral waters watersof of the the thermal thermal springs
springsat at the the spas spas ofAx of Ax and and minerai Aulus. Aulus. Among
Ariège Aridge culinary culinary specialities specialities Ihere there are good are
many many good Among dishes; above above ail, all, those those ri rich in fat fat
meat. meat. dishes; eh in Excellent Confits (se CONFIT) Confits d'oie d'oie (see
CONFIT) are are made made in in this this Excellent region. The The Ariège Aridge
geese geese have have a a very very fine fine flesh. flesh. Ariège pork Aridge pork
region. is also also of quality, and of high high quality, and is is made good
charculerie; made into into good charcuterie; is Aridge bams hams and and sausages
sausages are are famous. famous. (See (See LANGUEDOC.) LANGUEDOC.) Ariege

ARIEGEOISE (À (A V) L') -= Name given to Name given to various various dishes

dishes ARIÉGEOlSE almost ail all of of whieh which include include the the
following following ingredients ingredients as as almost garnish: green green
cabbage pickled pork, cabbage and pork, and and pickled and- sometimes sometimes
gamish: kidney beans. (See CHI beans. (See CHICKEN Stffid chicken chicken à
I'ariigeoise; d l'ariégeoise; kidney CKEN,, Stuffed MUTTON, Sluffed Stufed breasi
breast of of mullon mutton ci d l'ariégeoi5e.) I'ariigeoise.) MUTTON,
(Harlequin) --The ARLEQUIN (Harlequin) (or rather was, arlequrn is is (or was, for
for ARLEQUIN The arlequin it is is_almost past) an a thing thing of of tbe the
past) an assortment assortment of of scraps of of it almost a food, bought bought
from from bottle bottle washers or or washers-up washers-up in in restaufood,
rants. rants. The scraps scraps were were made made to to look look palatable
palatable and and sold The sold to to people of of small small means, means, who
cou could, for a few sous, have a few have the the Id, for people illusion good of
eating eating a a good meal. illusion of These bits pieces were also ealled bits
and and pieees jewels. called bijoux These - jewels. Privat d'Anglemont d'Anglemont
says: says: 'Arlequin is is so so called because Privat because these dishes are
are composed composed of of bits pieces, thrown and pieces, thrown 10tothese dishes
bils and gether in a haphazard parti-coloured gether in a haphazard fashion, just
just like like the parti-eoloured tights of citizen of tights of the the citizen of
Bergamo. A A bucket of pieces costs 3 francs; 3 francs; there there you you can can
find find everything, everything, from from trufled truffied chicken and chicken
and game game to to beef beef and cabbage.' cabbage.' ARLES ARLES - Many Many
famous famous gastronomic gastronomie products produets originate originate in this
neigbbourhood, situated in in the iouth south of this city city and and its its
neighbourhood, France. France. Chief Chief among among them them is is the the
celebrated saucisson d,Arles d'Arles (Arles (Arles sausage), sausage), but but the
the region region also produces produces excellent oil. oil. (See PROVENCE.) (See
PROVENCE.) ARLESIENNE ARLÉSIENNE (A (À L')L') - The The name na me applies applies
to to dishes dishes some some of which which have have a a garnish garnish of of
aubergines aubergines fried fried in in oil, oil, saut€ed sautéed tomatoes,
tomatoes, and and onion onion rings rings dredged dredged in in flour flour and
fried. fried. Another Another garnish garnish consists consists of of whole whole
small small tomatoes tomatoes peeled peeled and eooked in in butter, bu 11er, and
and very very [ender tender pickled pickled endive endive and cooked hearts hearts
fried fried in in oil. oil. Yet small tomatoes Yet another anothergarnish garoish
consists consists of ofsmall tomatoes stuffed stutfed with with pilaf pilaf and and
browned browned on on top, top, large large olives olives stuffed stutfed with with
chicken ehicken forcemeaf, forcemeat, and and new new potatoes. potatoes.

THRUSH.) THRUSH.) The same name also applies to a method of preparing The same name
also applies to a method of preparing crayfish (q.v.). crayfish (q.v.). ARDOISE
(Slate) - Slang name given to the bills for meals ARDOISE (Stale) - Slang name
given to the bills for meals taken in cheap restaurants; in days gone by, these
bills were taken in cheap restaurants; in days gone by, these bills were written on
a slate. written on asiate. ARENGA (Sugar paln) - A genus of palm tree. Its trunk
ARENGA (Sugar palm) -- A genus of palm tree. Ils trunk contains abundant pith,
which produces a large quantity of contains abundant pith, whieh produces a large
quantity of starchy matter, obtained by making an incision on the starchy matter,
obtained by making an incision on the trunk, from which sago (q.v.) prepared. tnmk,
from which sago (q.v.) is is prepared. From From the the clusters, clusters, which
which develop develop all ail the the year year round round between the lower
leaves, there is a flow of sweet sap which, hetween the lower leaves, there is a
tlow of swect sap which, by simple evaporation, by simple evaporation, furnishes
furrushes a a kind kind of of suglr sugar of of a a brownish colour, and, by a
process of fermentation, a palm brownish colour, and, by a pro cess of
fermentation, a palm wine. wine. In England In England and and in in some sorne
parts parts of of France, France, where where imported imported sago is to be had,
fruit of the sugar palm, gathered green, sago is to be had, fruit of the sugar
palm, gathered green, is candied, and is much valued as a stomach remedy. is
eandied, and is much valued as a stomacb remedy.

ARGENTEUIL ARGENTEUIL - Asparagus Asparagus cultivated cultivated in in the the

Argenteuil Argenteuil region, in Seine-et-Oise, enjoys a world-wide reputaiion.
region, in Seine-et-Oise, enjoys a world-wide reputation. Nowadays, Argenteuil
exports its 'cuttings, and spreads Nowadays, Argenteuil exports its 'cuttings' and
spreads .Conthe renown the renown of of its its asparagus asparagus with wilh the
the help help of of the the 'Confraternity ofthe Argenteuil asparagus'. (See
ASpARAGUS.) fraternity of the Argenteuil asparagus'. (See ASPARAGUS.) Argenteuil
wine once rivalled that of Suresnes. A few Argenteuil wine once rivalled that of
Suresnes. A few casks of it are still produced annually. casks of it are still
produced annually.
ARGUS PI{EASANT - Bird thus called because of the ARGUS PHEASANT Bird thus called
because of the great number of 'eyes' on its magnificent plumage. It bears great
number of 'eyes' on its magnificent plumage. It bears
46 46

ARMADILLO. ARMADILLO. urou TATOU - Small Small toothless toothless mammal mammai
covered eovered with with scales, sc.ales, found found in in South South America.
America. It 1t is is about about the the size size of ofa a guinea-pig, guinea-pig,
but bul more more highly highly esteemed esteemed as as meat. meat. ARMAGNAC
ARMAGNAC - Region Region in in the the old old province province of of Gascony,
Gascony, now now almost almost entirely entirely included included in in the the
dipartement département of of Gers. Gers. The The Armagnac Armagnac brandies
brandies are are famous. famous. Armagnac Armagnac (which (which is is even even
shaped shaped like like a a vine vine leaf) Ieaf) is is divided divided into into
three three zones: zones: lower lowcr Armagnac, Armagnac, upper upper Armagnac,
Armagnac, and and T€nardze. Ténarèze. (See (See sPrRrTs.) SPIRITS.) ARMORICAIIYE
ARMORICAlNE - Armorica Armorica (older (oider Aremorica) Aremorica) was was the the
ancient ancient name namefor for aa region regionin in north-west north-west France
Francecomprising comprising the thecoast coastof ofGaul, Gaul, between betweenthe
the Seine Seineand and Loire Loirerivers. rivers. Armoricaine isthe thename
namegiven givento toaavery verychoice choice Armoricainenowadays nowadaysis variety
varielyof ofoysters oysters(q.v.). (q.v.).
ARROWROOT ARROWROOT
ARMORICAINE ARMORICAINE(A (ÀL') V)-- Corruption Corruptionby bycertain
certainauthors authorsof of
the thename na meof ofdishes dishescalled calleditàI'amiricaine,
l'américaine,particularly particularlylobster. lobster. this corruption, As ofthis
corruption,the thedish, dish,so sotypically typicallyProvenqal, Provençal,
Asaaresult resultof has hasbeen beenplaced placedunder underthe thepatronage
patronageof oflegendary legendaryArmorica. Armorica. describes describes the the
characteristic characteristic fragrance fragrance ofvarious of variousdishes.
dishes. The The word wordaroma aromais isstronger strongerthan thaneither
eitherodour odouror orsmell. smel!. The Theword word perfume, on the the other
other hand, hand, is is more more specifically specifically reserved reserved for
for perfume, on essences essences and and other other non-edible non-edible
substances. substances. It It is is right right and and

AROMA. AROMA. ARoME AROME - Gastronomically Gastronomically speaking, speaking,

this this word word

proper proper that that gastronomical gastronomical literature literature should

should have have a a termiterminology nology of ofits its own. own. We We say, say,
the the aroma aroma of ofthis this consomm€, consommé, the the aroma aroma of of
tfus thisfumet (q.v.), the the aroma aroma of of this this coffee. coffee. fumel
(q.v.),

AROMATIC AROMATIC PLANTS. PLANTS. PLANTES PLANTES ARoMATIQUES AROMATIQUES - A A

great great number of aromatic aromatic plants, plants, with with either either a a
bland bland or or pungent pungent number of aroma, aroma, are are used used as as
flavourings flavourings in in cookery. cookery. The The following following are are
among among the the herbs herbs most most commonly commonly used used in in the the
kitchen: kitchen: parsley, parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, rosemary,
rosemary, thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, wild wild thyme, thyme, sage, savoury;
and and the the following following are are the the most most common common
aromatics: aromatics: garlic, garlic, shallots, spring spring onions, onions,
chives chives and and onions. onions.

AROMATICS. AROMATICS. lnounrns AROMATES - Taken Taken in in its its general general
sense, sense, this this out an an odour odour of of describes all ail substances
substances which wbich give give out word describes varying varying degrees degrees
of of sweetness. sweetness. The The greatest greatest number number of of aromatics
is provided by plants of of hot hot countries, countries, notably notably aromatics
concerned here with aromatics aromatics used used in in Arabia. We are only
concerned cookery, pdtisserie pâtisserie and confectionery. confectionery. cookery,
ancient practice, excesses of Without indulging in in the the excesses of ancient
practice, when scents like rose water and benzoin were were used used on every
every a disposal a cookery has possible occasion, present-day cookery has at its
its disposai those great number of aromatics. The following are among those pepper'
cinnacinnadill, betel pepper, as condiments: condiments: dill, widely used most
most widely used as leaf, mace, mace, mustard' bay leaf, coriander, bay mon,
cloyes, mustard, nutmeg, mon, cloves, coriander, for used mostly for pepper and
pepper and thyme. Next come the aromatics used cumin, basil, cumin, anise, basil,
anise, star anise, food: ambergris, ambergris, anise, flavouring food: etc.
juniper, ginger, sage, etc. rosemary, sage, ginger, horseradish, horseradish,
rosemary, fennel, juniper, for fresh' for used fresh, plants are are frequently
frequently used aromatic plants Some aromatic Sorne exThe essence essence
exparsley, etc. etc. The tarragon, parsley, chervil, tarragon, instance: instance:
chervil, is and tangerines tangerines is lemons and peel of of oranges, oranges,
lemons from the the peel tracted tracted from to the the in addition addition to
and confectionery, confectionery, in Pdtisserie and also used. used. Pâtisserie
also and chocolate and vanilla, tea, tea, chocolate use vanilla, also use
mentioned, also aromatics aromatics mentioned, coffee. coffee. with are dealt dealt
with onions are and onions shallots and onions, Garlic, spring spring on Garlic,
ions, shallots well as as as weil order, as alphabetical order, in their their
alphabetical entries in separate entries under under separate parsnip, which are
which are and parsnip, celery and of carrot, carrot, celery roots of the aromatic
aromatic roots the than aromatics. aromatics. vegetables than more vegetables
really really more

Medical Medical opinion opmiOn concerning concerning the the use use of aromatics
in tolerate it, cookery cookeryvaries. varies. Some Sornedoctors doctorsdenounce
denounceit, it, others others tolerate it, of aromatics Formerly it. upon yei
insist and and yet others others insist upon it. Formerly the the use use of
aromatics has, in and and itrong strong seasoning seasoning was was abused. abused.
Modern Modern cookery cookery has, in excesses. these with away done measure, large
large measure, done away with these excesses. use of iromatherapia Aromatherapia
(treatment (treatment for for maladies maladies by by the the use of simply plants)
plants) is is now now being being successfully successfully practised, practised,
often often simply (See CONDIincorporated incorporated in in the the daily daily
diet' diet. (See SEASONING' SEASONING, CONDIMENTS.) MENTS.) To impart some aroma to
a AROMATISE. AROMATISE. ARoMATIsER AROMATISER - To impart sorne aroma to a
aromatised culinary preparation or ora a pastry. pastry. Pastries Pas tries are are
also also aromatised culinary preparation with with liqueurs. liqueurs. plover.
ARPBNTEUR ARPENTEUR - Common Common French Frencb name name for for ployer.
aromatic various made of liqueur old An ARQUEBUSE ARQUEBUSE - An old liqueur made
of various aromatic plants. plants. of eau Eau Eau d'arquebuse d'arquebuse - Also
Also known known under under the the name name of eau or infusion by is obtained
This beverage d'arquebusade. d'arquebusade. This beverage is obtained by infusion
or lady's finger, maceration maceration of of vulnerary vulnerary plants plants
(kidney (kidney vetch, vetch, lady's finger, wound-wort). wound-wort). ARRACACHA
ARRACACHA or or ARRACACIAARRACACIA - Plant, Plant, native native of of
ColumColumAmerica. bia, bia, which wbich grows grows in in the the Andes Andes and
and in in North North America. is which produce flour a farinaceous, Its Its roots,
roots, which which are are farinaceous, produce a flour which is cooked eaten eaten
in in its its country country of of originorigin. The The roots roots can can also
also be be cooked like like yams yams and and sweet sweet potatoes potatoes (q.v.).
(q.v.). arraof the T[e The starch starch which which is is extracted extracted from
from the the roots roots of the arraarrowroot. similar to is similar cacha cacha is
to arrowroot. from distilled from given to a spirit spirit distilled Name given
ARRACK. ARRACK. ARAcK ARACK - Name to a sugar and from either distilled is also
Arrack rice. fermented fermented rice. Arrack is also distilled either from sugar
and juice which seeps from the the juice or from ferment, or left to milk left
coconut rnilk coconut to ferment, which seeps palm.In R€union coconut palm. the
coconut made on on the incisions made through incisions In Réunion through parts
the South South of most parts of the in most and in Madagascar and in Madagascar
Island-, in Island, the cultivated, is cane sugar where sub-continent, African
African sub-continent, where sugar cane is cultivated, the ferfrom ferdistilled
from given to spirit distilled to a a spirit is also also given arrack is of arrack
name of name juice squeezed out under a juice (sugar (sugar cane cane juice cane
juice mented cane mented squeezed out un der a

of aromatics in

distillation ofArmagnac Armagnac distillation leading centre Gers, Cellaratat

Condom, Gers. Cellar Condom. aa leading centre or (French TouristOffice) Ofr.ce)
Governrnent TouriSI (French Governmenl

press). press). obtained extracts obtained given to to starchy starchy extracts

Name given ARROWROOT - Name ARROWROOT regions' tropical regions. plants of the
tropical of the various plants of various roots of the roots from the from because
the name originated originated because this name that this legend that a legend is
a There is There the roots capable the from obtained sap the consideied Indians
Indians considered the sap obtained from the roots capable name in Hence the the
name arrows' Hence by arrows. caused by wounds caused healing wounds of healing of
in arrowroot that arrowroot is, however, however, tbat fact is, The fact 'arrow-
root'. The English, 'arrow-root'. English, flour-root, word for Indian American
Indian word for flour-root, the American from the name from its name takes its
takes araruta. araruta. Indian arrowroot arrowroot is the the West West Indian
starches is these starches of these chief of The chief The plant from the plant
because the called (Maranta arundinacea), thus ca arundinacea), thus (Maranta lied
because from West Indies. in the the West produced originated originated in is
produced flour is the flour which the which Indies. is also called West itis and it
India and it into into India introduced it The English English introduced also
called West The Indian salep. salep. Indian Madagascar. grows in in Madagascar.
plant also also grows The plant The is imported into Europe andis edible and
iseminently eminently edible Arrowroot is Arrowroot imported into Europe in is used
used in starch is delicate starch very delicate This very quantities. This great
quantities. in great in preparation in the well as gravies, as and soups thiclening
thickening soups and gravies, as weil as in the preparation sweet dishes.
numeroussweet puddings and andnumerous milk puddings blancmangei, milk
ofblancmanges, of dishes. as a food valuedas isespecially especially valued
arrowroot is Easilydigestible, digestible,arrowroot a food Easily aged. theaged.
andthe invalids and young children, children, invalids for young for into Pour into
i L'ARROWROOT t'nRRowRoor - - Pour LIAIsoN À liaison LIAISON ,Amonnoot liaison.
Arrowroot (or other) stock, veal(or quart) boiling boiling veal generousquart) (lf
pints, pints,generous litre(li 11litre other) stock, stock coldstock littlecold
withaalittle wellblended blended with arrowroot,weil tablespoonarrowroot,
1Itablespoon strain. andstrain. boiland theboil tothe bringto Mix,bring water. Mix,
orwater. or Mix t'.nRnowRoor - - Mix AL'ARROWROOT porridge. BOUILLIE BouILLIEÀ
Arowroot porridge. Arrowroot cup) with33tablespoons tablespoonsCt (|cup)
arrowrootwith cup)arrowroot 6cup) tablespoons(1 33tablespoons the Bringthe pint,2t
2|cups). cups).Bring dl.(l(l pint, from66d!. milk taken takenfrom cold co Id milk
teaspoon either1Iteaspoon addingeither boil,adding theboil, tothe milkto ofthe
themilk remainderof remainder ofthe the Poursorne someof sugar.Pour
tablespoons)sugar. oz.,66tab.lespoons) or75 75g.g.(3 saltor Qoz., salt pan and cook
tothe the returnto then arrowroot,th thearrowroot, hotrnilk milkonto ontothe en
retum pan and cook hot

47 47
ARSENIC ARSENIC
gentlyfrom to10 l0minutes, stirringfrom timeto totime. time.Stock gently from 88to
minutes, stirring from time Stock canbe beused usedinstead insteadof ofmilk. milk.
can por.lDrNc À Arrowroot pudding. pudding. POUDING A L'ARROWROOT L'.e,nRownoor - _
See ArroWToot See PUDDING, Semolina Semo linapudding. pudding. PUDDING, ARSENIC -
Anelement element which whichis isnormally normally present presentin inminute
minute ARSENIC-An quantities in inthe thetissues tissues of of the thehuman human
body (thyroid gland, body (thyroid gland, quantities gland, mammary marnmary gland,
gland, head headand ind body body hair). thymus hair). lhymus gland, Certain
vegetables vegetables (kohlrabi, (kohlrabi,turnips, turnips, certain certaincere
cereils;, Certain aIs), sea sea fish,sea seasalt, salt,milk milk and and egg yolk
contain eggyolk contiin sm quantitiej ofit, small fish, ail quantities of it,
sufficient for for the the requirements requirements of of the theorganism.
organism. sufficient ARTAGNAN (A LA D) Name garnish composed ofaagarnish composedof
ARTAGNAN (À LA D') -- Name of of preparcd à cCpes prepared (see SAUCE), d la la
béarnaise bCarnaise (see SAUCE), little littl; stuffed cèpes stuffed tomatoes and
and cork-shaped cork-shaped potato potatocroquettes. croquettes. tomatoes garnish
is This garnish is served served with with large large or pieces of or small small
pieces This of meat meat poultry. and with with poultry. and
vinaigrette vinaigre t t e(see (seeHORS-D'ŒUVRE). HORS-D'GUVRE). Artichoke
Artichoke hearts, hearts,cooked cooked and andchilIed, chilled, make make one oneof
ofthe the best Id dishes. garnishesfor bestgarnishes forco cold dishes.They Theycan
canbe bestuffed stuffedwith with various variousingredients. ingredients.They
Theyare arealso alsoserved servedas asan anhors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre.
(Seealso (See also JERUSALEM JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.) ARTICHOKE.)

Artichoke orescence Artichoke showing showing infl inflorescence a. a. Large Large

green green from from Laon Laon b. b. Camus Camus from Brittany Brittany c.
Artichoke Artichoke bud bud

ARTICHOKF. ARTICHOKE. anrIcuAur ARTICHAUT - Vegetable Vegetable derived derived

from from the tbe cardoon, by scientific scientific methods. methods. cardoon,
vastly vastly improved improved by This This plant plant has has been been
cultivated cultivated in in France France since since the the beginbeginning of the
the. sixteenth sixteenth century century and and is is mentioned mentioned by by
Rabelais. Rabelais. ning of brought to to France France by by It originated
originated in in Sicily, Sicily, and and was was brought Catherine of them them
that that sh! she Catherine de de Medici, Medici, who who ate ate so so many many
of 'cuyda 'cuyda crever' crever' ('almost ('almost burst'). burst'). (Journal
(Journal of of p. P. de de I'Estoile) l'Estoile) The The principal principal
regions regions of of French French production production are are in in the the
west Anjou); the the south-east sou th-east (provence (Provence and and the the
west (Brittany (Brittany and and Anjou); Garonne valley; valley; the the Paris
Paris region; region; and and Hyères region); region); the the Garonne lVbres

It

artichokes of Laon, Laon, the the camus camus of of Brittany, Brittany, the the
violeiart! violet artiartichokes of choke choke of ofProvence, Provence, the the
green green (or (or 'white') 'white') variety variety of ofthe the same same
region, region, and and the the large large macau. macau. The The green green and
and the the violet violet Provengal Provençal artichokes artichokes are are also
also cultivated in North North Africa Africa and and exported exported to to France
France at at the the cultivated in beginmng of the the season. season. The The bulk
bulk of of French French production production beginning of takes ofMay May and and
June. June. takes place placein in the themonths months of The is a a health-giving
health-giving food, food, and and lends lends itself itselfto to The artichoke
artichoke is numerous numerous delicious delicious dishes. dishes. When Whenit itis
is young, young, and and therefore therefore very very tender, tender, it it is is
eaten eaten raw, raw, dà la la croque-au-sel croque-au-selwhich which means means
with 'nought but but a a grain grain of of salt', salt', d à Ia la poivrade,
poivrade, and and d à la la with 'nought

Roussillon. The most most sought sought after after are are the the laige large
green green Roussillon. The

WHOLE WHOLE ARTICHOKES. ARTICHOKES.ARCTICHAUTS lncrrcHAurs ENTIERS ENrrERs

Artichokes prepare Artichokes barigoule. barigoule. ARTICHAUTS ARTTcHAUTs BARIGOULE
BARrcouLE - - Prepare the the artichokes artichokes as as described described in in
Whole Whole boi/ed boited artichokes artich;kes below. below. Fill Fill the
theinsides insides with withaduxelles a duxelles (q.v.) (q.v.)mixture, mixture,
adding adding to to it itaa quarter quarter of ofits itsvolume volume in infinely
finely shredded shredded fat fat bacon, bacon, the thi same same amount am_ount of
of chopped chopped lean lean ham, ham, and and sorne some chopped parsley. chopped
parsley. Surround Surround the the artichokes artichokes with with rashers rashers
or or strips strips of of fat fat bacon, bacon, and and braise braise them them as
as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Large Large braised
braised artichokes artichokes stuffed (see below). stuffed au gras (see au gras
below). Finish Finish as is described described in in that that recipe. recipe.
Note. Note. A A variant variant of of this this recipe recipe consists consists of
of cooking cooking the the stuffed stuffed artichokes artichokes in in oil oil with
with aa little little white white wine. wine. In home home cookery, cookery, in in
the the absence absence of of Demi-glace Demi-glace (see (see - In SA UCE), the
SAUCE), the braising braising liquor liquor can can be be thickened thickened with
Xneadea with Kneaded butter (see BUTTER). butter (see BUTTER). Whole lVhole boiled
boild artichokes. artichokes. ARTICHAUTS ARTTcHAUTs ENTIERS ENrrERs BOUILLIS
BourLL$ -Cut Cut off off the pull off the stalks, stalks, pull the hard off the
hard outer outer leaves leaves and and trim trim them. them. Shorten Shorten them
them evenly, evenly, cutting cutting off off the the tops tops to to twotwothirds
thirds of of their their height. height. Wash, Wash, tie tie with with string
string round round the the largest largest circumference, and and put them, them,
bases bases downwards, downwards, into into a a saucesaucepan of pan of boiling
boiling salted salted water. Cook, Cook, keeping keeping the the water water
boiling, boiling, until until done; done; the the time time depends on on the the
size size and and freshness freshness of of the the artichokes. artichokes. Drain,
Drain, dry on ove the on a a cloth, cloth, rem remove string. Serve the string.
Serve as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe chosen. The artichokes must
must not not be be overcooked. overcooked. To To ensure ensure this, this, .give,
under test test the bottom of the vegetable, vegetable, which which should should
'give' under very pressure when very light light pressure when cooked cooked
sufficiently. sufficiently. If If the the artiartiin cold chokes are to be be
served cold, put them them in cold water water as as soon soon as they are cooked.
ARTICHAUTS Boiled artichokes with Boild with various cold cold sauces. sauces.
ARTTcHAUTS BOUILLIS - Boil, Boil, cool and with one of the the following following
BouILLrs and serve serve with one of sauces: Mayonnaise, Mayonnaise, Mustard,
Mustard, Tartare, Vinaigrette (see (see sauces: Tartare, Vinaigrette SAUCE).
sAUCE). To serve serve artichokes artichokes cold, cold, cook them, them, scoop
scoop out out the the choke, choke, To and remove remove the leaves leaves which
which surround surround it. it. Replace Replace them them in in the the and of the
the choke. choke. Season Season these these leaves leaves cavity left by the
removal of cavity of chopped chervil chervil and and parsley. parsley. with a pinch
pinch of with ARTICHAUTS Boiled artichokes artichokes with with vrrious various hot
hot sauces. sauces. ARTTcHAUTS Boitd BOUILLIS - Boil Boil as as described in in the
the recipe recipe for for Whole Whole boiled boi/ed BouILLrs ar~ichokes, and and
serve serve with with one one of of the the following following sauces: sauces:
White, White, artichokes, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Butter, Cream, Cream, Hollandaise,
Hollandaise, Mousseline Mousseline (see Butter, Large braisod braised artichokes
artichokes stufred stuffed au au gras gras (with (with meat). meat). cnos GROS
Large ARTICHAUTS snArs6s BRAISÉS FARcIs FARCIS AU AU cRAS GRAS - pare Pare and and
trim trim the the ARTTcHAUTS artichokes. Blanch Blanch for for 5 5 minutes minutes
in in boiling boiling salted salted water. water. artichokes. or leave leave under
under a a running running tap tap to to cool; cool; Plunge into into cold cold
water water or Plunge drain and and remove rem ove the the choke. choke. drain
Season, stuff stuff as as desired, desired, wrap wrap them them in in a a thin thin
rasher, rasher, or or Season, offat fat bacon, bacon, and and tie tie with with
string. string. Melt Melt some sorne butter butter in in a a slice, of slice, put
in in finely finely shredded shredded bacon, bacon, onions onions and and carrots,
carrots, sautépan, pan, put saut6 and place place the the artichokes artichokes on
on this this foundation. foundation. Season Season and and add add and a bouquet
bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). a and a a small small quantity quantity of
ofwhite white wine wine until until Simmerin in butter butter and Simmer isalmost
almostcompletely completely boiled boileddown; down; then then add add a a few few
theliquor liquor is the tablespoons of of veal veal stock stock and and cook cook
in in a a moderate moderate oven oven tablespoons Gas Mark Mark 4), 4), with with
the the lid lid on on the thepan pan for for 55 55 180°C. (350'F., (350°F., Gas
180"C. to 60 60 minutes. minutes. Baste Baste frequently frequently during during
cooking. cooking. to Drainthe theartichokes, artichokes,remove rem ove string
stringand and bacon, bacon,and andplace place Drain onaadish. dish. Strain
Strainthe theliquor liquorin inwhich whichthey theywere were theartichokes
artichokeson the cooked and and skim skim off off surplus surplus fat. fat. Stlain
Strain again, again, add'Demiadd Demicooked (seeSAUCE), SAUCE),veal vealstock
stockor orany anyother othersauce, sauce,according according glace(see glace

48 48
ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE

to to the the recipe. recipe. Boil Boil down down the the liquor liquor and and
pour pour over over the the artichokes. artichokes. Large Large braised braiscd
artichokes artichokes stuffed stulfed au au maigre maigre (without (without meat).
meat). GROS ARTICHAUTS ARTICHAUTS snalsfs BRAiSÉS FARCIS fARCIS AU AU MAIGRE MAIGRE
- Proceed Proceed as as cRos described above, above, leaving leaving out out the
the bacon bacon and and replacing replacing veal veal described stock by by
vegetable vegetable stock. stock. stock braised artichokes. Ilrtichokes. pETITs
PETITS ARTIcHAUTs ARTICHAUTS nnusfs BRAJSÉS Small braised These These are are
served served as as a a garnish garnish and and as as a a vegetable. vegetable.
Choose Choose very very young young small small artichokes; artichokes; pare pare
them, them, trim trim offthe off the stalks stalks evenly and rub rub the the
bottoms bottoms with with lemon; lemon; blanch blanch in boiling boiling water
water to to and which which has has been been added added salt salt and vinegar.
vinegar. Dip Dip in in cold water water to cool, and and drain. drain. Place Place
them, them, bases bases downwards, downwards, in in a buttdred buttered cool, sauté
pan, pan, or or heavy heavy frying frying pan, pan, on ona foundation ofvegetables,
ofvegetables, a foundation saute as described described in the the recipe recipe
for for Large Large braised braised artichokes. artichokes. Cook as low heat with
the lid on for about l0 10 minutes, minutes, and over a low finish cooking cooking
as described described above. above. finish artichokes, and and use use as as
indicated. indicated. Strain the Drain the artichokes, braising liquor, liqllor,
reduce, reduce, skim off surplus fat, and pour this this braising sauce over the
artichokes. artichokes. sauce Note. NOie. Small braised artichokes artichokes can
also also be prepared au (without meat) by following following the instructions
given maigre (without braised artichokes artichokes au maigre. maigre. for large
braised put the artichokes saut€ One can put artichokes into a buttered sa uré pan
withenough to out blanching, blancJüng, provided provided one one works works
quickly quickly enough out prevent their going black. Artichokes Clamart.
ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS cLAMART CLAMART - Choose 12 Artichokes and put them in a
artiehokes; trim trlm them and very small young artichokes; saute pan, or heavy
frying pan, with plenty sauté plenty of butter. Add cups) shelled fresh garden
garden peas peas and 2 Add 225 g. (8 oz., 2 cups) shredded lettuce hearts. shredded
hearls. Season Season with salt and sugar. Moisten (scant l Cook with the lid on, ~
cup) water. Cook with 3 tablespoons (seant of a tablespoon of simmering simmering
gently. At the last moment, add a butter. fresh butter. vegetable, being delicate
and fragile, can be prepared This vegctable, being delicate saute pan, or in an
earthenware bi-melal or aluminium sauté in a bi-metal same dish (to avoid or
enamelware enamelware COCOlle, cocotte, and served in the same damage when
transferring artichokes to a dish for table). transferring the arüchokes Artichokes
Créey. ARTIcHAUTS CRÉCY cnfcv -- Proceed Proceed as Cr6cy. ARTICHAUTS Artichokes
and lettuce deseribed described in the preceding recipe, replacing peas and by an
an equal equal quantity of young peeled carrots. (Italian I l'infemo I'inferno
(Hlllian Artichokes Artichokes Il I la la diable diable or or Careiofo Carciofo à
of onnrn ARrrcHAUrs À A re LA DIABLE Ligiltly trim the tips of oookery). cookery).
ARTICHAUTS - Lightly Remove the choke, very tender, tender, medium-sized
artichokes. Remove very mixture ofbrcadof breadblanch and drain. Fill the
artichokes with a mixture chopped garlic, capers and parsley, and season with
crumbs, chopped sal t and pepper. salt pan with packing them in closely. Put into
into a saut6 pan with oil, them in Put a sauté oil, packing generously with olive
oil and season again. in again. Cook in Sprinkle generously the'oven, uncovered,
basting frequently. When cooked, the the oyen, uncovered, at the the tips.
artichokes should be be crisp at tips. sprinkle with the the oil in which they they
on a a dish dish and and sprinkle Arrange on were cooked. cooked. Trim Dricd Dried
artichokes. coNsBnvE D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTIcHlurs SÉCHÉS sfcufs -- Trim artichokes.
CONSERVE in water water to to artichokes and and blanch them them for for 5 5
minutes in the the artichokes juice has which lem on juice lemon has been been
added. added. put to dry sun, or in a a slow slow them, and and put dry on on trays
in the sun, Drain them, (They can dried in the oyen. also be threaded oven. (They
threaded on on a a string string and and dried the can also open open air.) air.)
preserving artichokes, the blanching For For this this method of of preserving
artichokes, the particles would would water must must not salted, otherwise
otherwise saline saline partieles not be be salted, water humidity and and thereby
artichokes, drawing drawing humidity thereby impregnate the the artichokes,
preventing desiccation. desiccation. Fried artichokes hearts fried in Fried
artichokes See below below Artichoke Artichoke hearts fried in - See baller.
batter. These can Artichoke frilters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIcNETS D'ARTICHAUTS
D'ARTIcHAUTS -- Thcse be can be Artichoke (See HORSHORSas hors-d'œuvre or as as a a
vegetable. vegetable. (See served served as hors-dauvre or D'(EUVRE, F"rillers.)
D'ŒUVRE, Fritters.) LyoNNAIsE A LA ra LYONNAISEArtichokes Artichokes à la
lyonnaise. lyonnaise. ARTICHAUTS ARTIcHAUTs À i la
49 49

Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for

Artichokes Artichokes barigoule, barigoule, replacing replacing the the daxelles
duxelles mixture mixture by by sausage sausage meat meat with with a a

quarter quarter of of its its weight weight of of chopped, chopped, lightly lightly
fried fried onion onion and and chopped chopped parsley parsley added added to 10
it. il. Artichokes Articbokes I à la la mdnagbre. ménagère. ARTIcHAUTs ARTICHAUTS A
À LA LA rrafr.r,{cins MÉNAGÈRE Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the
the recipe recipe for Artichokes Artichokes barigoule, barigoule, replacing
replacing the the &txelles duxelles mixture mixture by by chopped chopped boiled
boiled beef beef mixed mixed with with finely finely shredded shredded fresh fresh
bacon bacon and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Artichokes ARTICHAUTS
MIREPoIX MIREPOIX - Put Put 12 12 small small Artichokes mirepoix. mirepoix.
ARTIcHAUTS artichokes, artichokes, prepared prepared as as described described in
in the the recipe recipe for for Artichokes Artichokes Clamart, Clamart. into into
a saut6 sauté pan pan on a foundation foundation of of 2 2 dl. dl. $ H pint, pint,
scant seant cup) cup) Vegetable Vegetable mirepoix mirepoi.x (see (see MIREPOIX),
MIREPOIX), mixed mixed with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) lean lean ham ham cut eut into into tiny tiny dice. dice. Simmer for 5
minutes minutes over a low low flame, flame, keeping keeping the the pan pan
uncovered. uncovered. Moisten Moisten with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (* 0 cup)
white white wine. wine. Simmer for for 5 5 minutes, minutes, add I 1 dl. (6 (6
tablespoons, tablespoons. scant seant i t cup) cup) veal veal stock, cover caver
with with a lid lid and simmer for for 35 35 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve in in a
a vegetable vegetable dish. Pour Pour the the mirepoix mirepoix over over the the
artichokes, artichokes, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley.
Pickled Pickled artichokes. artichokes. coNSERvE CONSERVE D'AnrIcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS
- Trim Trim freshly gathered gathered artichokes. Put them, whole whole or or in in
quarters, quarters, added. Blanch in water to which lemon lemon juice juice has
been added. Blanch them them of salt. Allow in salted salled water, water, allowing
l0 10 per per cent ofsalt. Allow l0 10 minutes minutes for whole artichokes
artichokes and 5 minutes for for quarters. quarters. Drain Drain and and refresh
refresh in cold water. Drain them again, again, put into into cans, and pour pour
in the the following following pickling brine: (4 gallons, 5 gallons) For 20 litres
(4 gallons) water, I 1 kg. kg. (21b.) (21b.) wellwellrefined (3 tablespoons) lemon
lemon juice. juice. refined salt and 2 tablespoons (3
time Cooking Cooki.ng time lime Cooking lime ( 230" F.) in a bain-marie I JO°c.
l0'C. (230°F.) Weight of of cans wilh J Weighl cans with canning kettle pressure
sleriliser steriliser or canning keltle

(l lb.) 500 g. (1
(2{ lb.) I kg. (2! 1

30 minutes 30 40 minutes
I hour hour 1

(ai lb.) 2 ke. kg. (4t

A LA LA GRECQUE cRECeue -À

minutes minutes 60 minutes

l|à hours 1 hours

2 hours 2 hours

o'ARTICIIAUTS grecque. CONSERVE coNsERvE D'ARTICHAUTS la grecque. i la Pickled

artichokes il pickle for arti for which which only only small ar!iThis is is a a
pickJe - This to be cut into have ta artichokes have chokes are are used. used.
Large chokes Large artichokes be cul into ofthis hors-d'euvre. the aspect of which
changes the quarters, wlüch this hors-d' œuvre. of the the same small anichokes
artichokes of 100 sma]] trim 100 Method. Pare Pare and and lrim following into the
following them ioto are trimmed, trimmed, plunge them size. As they are size.
mixture : previously prepared mixture: (scant pint, (4t quarts, quarts) water;
pint, quarts, 5| quarts) dl. (seant water; 5 5 dl. 5 litres 5 litres (41 I teaspoon
1| coriander; 1 teaspoon 2f cups) oil; 1 olive oil; cups) olive 2~ t tablespoons
coriander; garni large bouquet peppercorns; 11a large bouquet garni l* tablespoons
salt; a tablespoons salt; peppercorns; leaf, fennel fennel and and a a slalk
celery; of celer)'; stalk of composed of of thyme, bay bay leaf, composed juice of
a muslin muslin bag. 10 lemons lemons strained through a and the juice of JO
strained through and for 8 and continue boiling boiling for 8 Bring the artichokes
to to the the boil boil and the artichokes 10 minutes. minutes. to 10 to quarters),
(20 artichoke quantity (20 artichoke hearts hearts or or quarters), a smaller
smaller quanüty For a (HORS-D'GUVRE, Cold grecque (HORS-D'ŒUVRE, la grecque d la
Artichokes à see Arlichokes see minutes. for 8 8 to to 10 l0 minutes. hors-
d'euvre). Cook Cook for hors-d'œuvre). large earthenware with their liquor, to to a
a large earthenware Transfer them, with their Iiquor, Transfer (2- or lJb.) into
11- or or t-litre or l-lb.) cool. Put Put into crock and and allow allow to to
cool. crock |Jitre (2finger within the the width width of of a a finger Fill with
with the the liquor liquor lo to within cans. FilJ cans. hermetically. from the the
top. top. Seal Seal hermetieally. from (l-lb.) for the~-litre the flitre (l-lb.)
Place in in a boil 20 minutes minutes for a boiler, and and boil20 Place (2-lb.)
cans. cans. l-litre (2-lb.) cans and and 30 30 minutes minutes for for the the I-
litre cans HORS-D'GUVRE. poivrade -- See See HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Ia poivrade Artichokes à
i la Articbokes punfE D'ARTICHAUTS garnish. PURÉE D'ARTIcHAUTS -for gamish. Pur6e
of of artichokes artichokes for Purée vegetable courlcourtin aa white white
vegetable hearts in Half-cook artichoke artichoke hearts Half-cook a fine fine
(q.v.), and through a Rub through in butter. butter. Rub bouillon (q.v.), and
simmer simmer in bouillon

st
ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE
Artichoke bearts hearts à la lacrème. crbme.FONDS FoNDsD'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs
ÀALA LA Articboke c,ntrr,rs- - Proceed Proceed as Assoon asabove. above. As soonas
asthe artichoke hearts theartichoke hearts CRÈME pour boiIing are cooked,
cooked,pour boilingcream cream over them.Simmer overthem. Simmerdown downby by are
half.Transfer Transfer the theartichoke artichoke hearts vegetable dish. heartsto
toaavegetable dish.Add Add half. thesauce, sauce,strain pourover butter to to the
strain it, it, and andpour overthe theartichokes. artichokes. butter prepared cream
A prepared cream sauce saucecan canalso alsobe pouring over forpouring beused
usedfor A over (seeSAUCE, thehearts hearts (see SAUCE, Cream Crearnsauce). sauce).
the Artichoke bearts heartsfines fines berbes. herbes. FONDS o'AnrrcH^q,urs FINES
FoNDSD'ARTICHAUTS FINES Articboke HERBEs -- Blanch Blanch lightly, lightly, slice,
slice, and andfry fryin in butter butterin inaashallow shallow HERBES pan. Transfer
Transfer to vegetable dish, toaavegetable dish,and andsprinkle sprinkle with
withchopped pan. chopped parsley. cherviland and parsley. chervil

Preparing artichoke artichoke hearts (Scarnati) hearts (Scarnali) Preparing

in the the recipe. recipe. If If required, required, thicken thicken its its
consistency consistency by by adding adding in potato purée. an equal equal amount
amount of pur6e. of potato an punfn D'ARTIPuree of of articbokes artichokes
soubisée soubis6e for garnlshes. PURÉE for garnisbes. D'ARTrPurée cHAurs SOUBISÉE
sorJBrsfE -- Proceed Proceed as as described preceding described in in the the
preceding CHAUTS recipe. Add Add to to the pur6e one the artichoke artichoke purée
one third third of of its its volume volume of of recipe. (see PURÉE). Onion
soubise soubise (see PUREE). Onion Artichoke salad salad -- See See SALAD, SALAD,
Mixed Mixed salads. salads. Artichoke Artichoke soufflé soufr6 -- See See SOUFFLÉS,
SOUFFLES, Soufflé Soffii of of various various Articboke vegetables. vegetables.
Artichoke stalks. stalks. MOELLE MoELLE D'ARTICHAUT D'ARTTcHAUT Peel the the stalks
stalks of of Articboke - Peel large artichokes, artichokes, taking taking care care
to to remove remove ail all the the woody woody large casing. Cut them into sticks
sticks 5 (2 inches) 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) long. long. Blanch Blanch in in casing.
salt water water flavoured with lemon. lemon. salt artichoke stalks prepared stalks
can can be prepared When they are blanched, artichoke in various ways; simmered
simmered in in butter butter or or cream cream in in a a covered covered in pan;
infritots (q.v.); infritols (q. (q.v.); curried; with d la grecque (q.v.); gravy.
with gravy. pan; v.); à ARTICHOKE FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTSD'ARrrcHAUrs - Artichoke
ARTICHOKE HEARTS. FONDS prepared as hearts as described described below below can
can be be served served as as a a hearts prepared vegetable as a a garnish. When
sliced sliced and and blended with a a blended with vegetable or as sauce, brown,
they should be be served a vegetable served in a sauce, white or brown, dish, in a
gratin (q.v.), timbale, in a dish, or or in a croustade (q.v.), timbale, or or
gratin dish, dish, in a vol-au-vent preparation of of the hearts heart s see
Artichoke vol-au-vent cases. For preparation see Artichoke hear ts in cour t-
bouillon below. below. hearts court-bouillon Artichoke hearb i I'allemande. FONDS
FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'.enrrcsaurs À A Articboke hearts à l'allemande. L'ALLEMANDE
the artichokes lightly and and stew L'ALLEMANDE - Blanch Blanch the stew in butter.
a vegetable vegetable dish dish and and coyer butter. Transfer Transfer into into a
cover with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). If If the artichoke artichoke
hearts are too big, cut them into slices. Ardcloke roNps D'ARTICHAUTS
o',mrrcpllr.rs À Artichoke hearb bearts i à la bechamel. béchamel. FONDS A LA ul
sfcHAl'Gr (see using Bichamel BÉCHAMEL - Proceed Proceed as as above, above, using
Béchamel sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke ror.rDs D'ARTICHAUTS Articboke hearts
cooked cooked in butter - FONDS D'ARTTcHAUTs fruvfs.q,u ÉTUVÉS AU seuRREBEURRE-
Pare and and trim trim the artichokes artichokes as described described in Rub them
with lemon, and blanch for 10 in the next next recipe. recipe. Rub l0 minutes
minutes in boiling salt salt water water to which which a few drops of lemon juice
juice have have been been added. added. Drain, put the artichokes artichokes in a
well-buttered well-buttered saut6 sauté pan, season, cook with the lid on season,
sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter, butter, and cook the the pan pan
for 18 to to 25 25 minutes, minutes, according according to their size. Use as as
indicated indicated in in the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Artichoke Articboke
hearts bearts in court-bouillon. court-bouillon. roNos FONDS D'ARTTcHAUTs
D'ARTICHAUTS AU AU BLANc BLANC - Strip off off the the outside leaves Ieaves on
medium-sized artichokes. artichokes. Trim Trim them them as as evenly evenly as as
possible, possible, leaving leaving only only the fleshy fleshy middle middle part.
part. Remove Remove the the choke, trim the hearts and rub Put into into cold water
water as each one is is rub them them with with lemon. lemon. Put trimmed. trimmed.
Cook Cook the the hearts hearts in in boiling boiling white white vegetable
vegetable court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.).They (q.v.). They can can be he
blanched blanched or or cooked cooked until until soft, according according to
Drain well. weil. to the the final final dish dish chosen. chosen. Drain
50 50

sieve. Heat Heat the puree and the purée and add add butter butter or or cream,
cream, as as directed directed sieve.

If the young and the artichokes artichokes are are very veryyoung tender, slice
slicethem them and tender, If rawand and fry fry in in butter beforesprinkling
butterbefore sprinkling with with the thechervil cherviland and raw parsley.
parsley. Artichoke bearts hearb fried frid in inbatter. batter. FONDS FoNDs
D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTSEN Articboke E[.r FRrror -- Blanch Blanch the the
artichoke artichoke hearts, FRITOT hearts, slice slicethem, them, and and juice,
salt, marinate in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepperand marinate salt,pepper
and fines herbes finesherbes (q.v.).When required, dip dip them (g.v.). When
required, them in in batter batter and anddeep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, season season
with with fine fine salt, salt, arrange Drain, arrange them in aaheap them in heap
on onaa folded napkin, garnish with napkin, and parsley. and garnish with fried
folded frid parsley. Gamishd artichoke artichoke bearts. hearts. FONDS Garnisbed
FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTIcHAUTs GARNIScARNrs Artichoke hearts principally asaa
garnish hearts used garnish for used principallyas Artichoke for hot hot and and
dishes can can be cold dishes be filled filled with with various cold various
mixtures. mixtures. Here Here are are the the main ingredients ingredients which
which can main for hot can he be added added to to them: them: for hot dishes,
dishes, the artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, cooked the cooked in in white white
vegetable vegetable courtcourt(q.v.) and bouillon (q.v.) and simmered bouillon
simmered in in butter, are filled butter, are filled at at the last the last moment
with with vegetables vegetables or moment or other other ingredients, ingredients,
but are not but are not put in in the put the oyen oven to to brown brown the the
tops recommended for as recommended tops as for stuffed artichoke artichoke hearts.
stuffed hearts. Artichoke hearts Artichoke hearts intended garnish for intended as
as a a garnish for cold cold dishes dishes are are cooked cooked in in this this
court-bouillon, court-bouillon, drained, drained, dried, dried, and and filled
filled with with various vegetables vegetables which various which have have been
set in in ajelly. a jelly. Or been set Or they they can can be seasoned seasoned
with he with vinaigrette, vinaigrette, mayonnaise mayonnaise or or other other
salpicons salpicons (q.v.). (q.v.). jelly or Artichoke hearts hearts can can also
also be be covered covered with with aspic or aspic jelly (see SAUCE). Chaud-froid
Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Filled garnish for Filled articboke artichoke
bearts hearts as as garnish for cold cold disbes dishes -- Fill Fill the the hearts
hearts with with various various butters pounded with butters which which have have
been been pounded with any any of of the following: caviare, the following:
caviare, shrimps, crayfish and shrimps, crayfish and other other shellfish,
shellfish, hard-boiled eggs, pur6es, various eggs, fish fish and and shellfish
various shellfish purées, salpicons, etc. etc. Filled Filld articboke garnish for
artichoke bearts hearts as as garnisb for bot hot dishes dir*es -- AnverAnversoise:
eu il : purée soise: hop pur€e of hop shoots shoots in in cream; cream; argent
argenteuil: of white white asparagus; pur6e of asparagus; bretonne: bretonne: purée
of kidney kidney beans; beans; Compoint: Compoint: pur6e of purée green asparagus;
of green pur6e; écossaise: asparagus; Conti: Conti; lentil lentil purée; Ccossaise:
(q.v.) of carrots, celery, brunoise (q.v.) celery, French French beans beans and
and onions; onions; macédoine macidoine of vegetables vegetables in in butter;
princess: asparagus asparagus tips tips and and diced diced truffies; truffies;
Saint-Germain: Saint-Germain: purée purfie of garden of fresh fresh garden peas;
peas; thick thick sauces sauces such such as as béarnaise, biarnaise, Choron,
Choron, Henri Henri IV, IV, paloise; Vichy: carrots à (For sauces d la Vichy. (For
sauces see see SAUCE.) SAUCE.) Articboke bearts Artichoke herrts à la hollandaise.
i la hltadaise. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTS À COURTA LA rA
HOLLANDAISEnorr,c,NDArsE- Cook in (srCOURTin Court-bouillon IV (see BOUILLON),
BOUILLOI$, drain, drain, put in a a vegetable dish and and coyer cover with
Hollandaise sauce (see (se,e SAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke Artichoke hearts Mornay.
FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs MORNAYMoRNAy Sim mer in Simmer in butter in a
pan. Put a covered covered pan. in a a fireproof Put in fireproof dish dish which
has has been (see SAUCE). been coated coated with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce
(see SAUCE). Coyer the artichoke hearts Cover the hearts with with the the same
same sauce, sauce, sprinkle Parmesan cheese with grated Parmesan cheese and melted
butter, and and brown brown the top. Pickled artichoke articboke hearts.
bearts.CONSERVE Pickled coNsERvE DE DE FONDS FoNDs D'ARTID'ARTICHAUTS - Choose
Choose small, small, tender artichokes. Trim cHAUTSTrim them them with with a a and
put them as special peeler or by hand and as they are are trimmed trimmed into
water water with with lemon lemon juice juice added. Blanch them into added. Blanch
them for for 5 5 (8 per per cent cent solution). minutes in salted water (8
solution). Drain, Drain, and and refresh in cold water. refresh Drain again, again,
put put into cans, cans, and and pour pour over over the the same same
picklpicklDrain as for Pickled Pickled artichokes artichokes (see (see above).
above). brine as ing brine
ARTOIS ARTOIS AND AND BOULONNAIS BOULONNAIS

Weight Weight of of cans

cans

Cooking time

Cooking Cooking time time in in a a bain-marie bain-marie or or pressure canning

pressure steriliser steriliser ketlle canning kettle

110'C.

with (230"F.)

described stock). stock). Proceed Proceed as as "but described in in the the recipe
recipe for for artichoke artichoke quarters in butter, buttcr,but finish finish off
off with with lemon lemon juice juice and and

chop@fines herbes. herbes.

500 e. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) 500

20 20 minutes minutes
30 30

40 40 minutes minutes
60 60 minutes minutes

kg. (2t (2i lb.) lb.) I1ke.

minutes minutes

ftavouroo rith with Onion On ion soubise soubise (see (sec PUREE). PURÉE). Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with flavoured grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and and
melted meltcd butter, butter, and and brown brown the the top. hearts sfuffed
stufl'ed à la la chalonnaise. chaJonuaise. roNps FONDS D'ARrID'ARTIArtichoke hearts
CHAUT'S FARcrs FARCIS A Â. r,l LA cnlr,oNNAIsE CHALONNAlSE - As As above, above.
with with Salpicon Salpicon cHAUTs ci h la chalornaise chalonnaise (see (sec
SALPICON). SALPICON). d Artichoke Articboke heorts bearts strffed stuffed ià la la
duxelles. duxeUes. FoNDs FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTICHAUTS fARCIS A À r-l LA puxsrrns
DUXELLES - As As above, with wÎth very very thick thîck duxelles duxelles FARcrs
(q.v.). (q.v.). Artichoke hearts strffed stutied à la la florentine. florentine.
FoNDs FONDS D'ARrID'ARTIArtichoke CHAUTS FARcrs FARCIS A À LA rronrNTINE FLORENTINE
- Simmer the the artichoke artichoke cHALns hearts in in butter, butter, and and
fill fi.!1 themwith them with spinach spÎnach that that has has also also been been
hearts Slmmered in butter. buttcr. Pour Pour Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE)
over simmered artichokes, sprinkle spr:inkle with grated cheese, cheese, and brown
brown the the artichokes, top. IvelnD.aÏS<e, roNDs FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'AR TI CH A
UTS Artichoke hearts stuffed i la lyonnaise. FARCIS A À LA rvoNlqltsn LYONNAISE -
As above. Stuff Stuff the artichokes with FARcIs sausage which have have been been
lightly lightly sausage meat and chopped onion which

and simmer sim mer in in butter. butter. Garnish Gamish with with a a Chestnut
Chestnut purie purée and

Artichoke Articboke hearts bearts stuffed stuffed ià la la o6venole. cévenole.

FoNDs FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS D' ARTICHAUTS FARcrs FARCIS A À Lrq, LA cfvsNore CÉVENOLE
- Blanch Blanch the the artichoke articboke hearts, hearts, drain, drain,
-

quarters fried in Artichoke Ar1IlCI110}{e(11.I1IlrtE~rslmetl inbatter. batter.

QUARTIERS QUARTIERSD'ARTIcHA{rrs D'ARTICHA1.JTS artichoke quarters. Trim, blanch
blanch and and marinate marinatc'artichoke quarters. - Trinn, Proceed Proceed as as
described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke
heartsfried in in batter. batter. Artichoke Artichoke quarters qllllrters ià la la
grecque. grecque. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTICHAUTS A À Le LA cneceue
GRECQUE - Trim Trim artichoke artichoke quarters, quarters, and and proceed proceed
as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Pickled Pickled
artichokes artichokes d à la la grecque. grecque. These These are are served served
as as cold cold hors-deuvre. hors-d'œuvre. Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters à
I'italienne. l'italienne. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'AnrIcttAUTs D'ARTlCHA1.JTS A À
t'tr^lttBlttu L'ITALIENNE - Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the
recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters aux aux fines fines
herbes. herbe.L Finish Finish off off with with ltalian /talian sauce (see SAUCE).
SA UCE). sauce (w Artichoke Artichoke quarters au jus. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS
D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTtCHAUTS AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed as as described in in the the
recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters auxfines aux fines herbes,
herbes, but but omit omit the the herbs. Artichoke Articboke quarters quarters I à
la la lyonnaise. QUARTIERS QU AR TIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'AR TTCH AUTS A À r,l LA
lvoNrqllseL YONNAISE- Proceed as as describedfor described for Artichoke Artichoke
quarters quarlers aux aux fines fines herbes. herbes. Finish Finish off off with
wÎth Lyonnaise LYDnnaise sauce sauce (see (see
EN EN FRrror FRITOT -

ll

fried in butter. t la niEoise. niçoise. FoNDS FONDS o'ARTIcHAUTS D'AR TlCHAUTS

Articboke hearts be.arts stuffed il Artichoke FARCIS A À ra LA Ntqotsn - Blanch the
artichoke hearts, hearts, fry them FARcIs Tomatofon&te fil! with Tomato fondue (see
TOMATO). Sprinkle in oil, and fill and brown the top. with breadcrumbs and melted
butter, butter, and FoNDs D'ARTIcHAUTS Pi6montaise. FONDS hearts stufTed stuffed
Piémontaise. Artichoke Artichoke be.arfs D' ARTICHAUTS p$ilroNratss covered pan.
PIÉMONTAISE - Simmer in butter in a covered (see RICE). RICE), sprinkle Pidmontaise
(see d la la Piémontaise Fill with with Risotto Risotto à Fill the top. and brown
the with grated Parmesan cheese, and o'ARTIcHAUTS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS hearb stu1Jed
stuffed Soubise. FONDS Artichoke bearts isee soLJBrsE As above, above. with a a
thick soubise (see FARcIs SOUBISE thick Onwn Onion soubise - As PUREE).
D'ARrIcHAUrs -ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE QUARTERS. QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS QUARTERS.
QUARTIERS into and cul cut them iuto Pare Pare and and Irim trim medium-sized
artichokes and and blanch with lemon, and quarters. Trim Trim them carefully, rub
with juice lemon juice salt and and lemon water ta to which salt 6 minutes in in
boiling water for 6 drain and drain running tap and a cold cold running added. Cool
have been been added. Cool under a quite dry. until dry. until quite section, in
this this section, specific recipes given in addition to to the the specifie ln In
addition of those and sorne some of given for for small small artichokes, and most
most of of tbose those given artichoke applied to to artichoke be applied given for
can be hearts, ean artichoke hearts, given for artichoke quarters. quarters. AU
D'ARTIcHAUTS AU quarters in in but1er. butter. QUARTIERS Articboke Artictoke
quarters QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS put them a in a them in quarters of and put of 6 6
artichokes artichokes and BEURRE BEURR-E -- Blanch quarters tablewith 3 3 tablepan.
Season, moisten with Season, and and moisten heavy pan. well-buttered well-buttered
heavy (scant * cup) a tablespoon of with a tablespoon of water. Sprinkle Sprinkle
with spoons cup) water. spoons (seant lid and and simmcr with a a lid simmer cover
with to the the boil, boil, coyer melted melted butter, butter, bring to pouring
dish, pouring in a a vegetable dish, gently for Serve in for 30 30 1035 to 35
minutes. Serve pan over over the from the the artichokes. the pan the juices from
quarters aux herbes alx fines fines herbes -. QUARTIERS Artichoke Artichoke
quartcrs QUARTTERS for recipe for as in in the the reeipe Prepare as HERBEsAux
FINES FINEs HERllES D'ARTICHAlITS - Prepare D'ARTIcHArns AUX dish. Dilute Dilute
vegetable dish. Put in in a a vegetable butter. Put Arlichoke in buller. Artichoke
quarters in white scant t pan juices wilh I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons,
scant with 1 the the pan ;| cup) while cup) 3 tablespoons(scant tablespoons (scant
* cup) down. Add 3 wine, and boil boil down. moments. Strain trus this a fcw few
moments. for a and boil veal stock boil for th.!cl(ien~~ stock and thickened veal
drops a few few drops melted butter, I tablespoon butter, a it 1 sauce, and add add
to to it tablespoon melted sauce, and (q.v')' juice and herbs (q.v.). I tablespoon
choppedlnes herbs lemon juice and 1 tablespoon choppedfines of of lemon quarters.
artichoke quarters. over the the artichoke Pour Pour the the sauce sauoe over
(without prepared au also he Nore. This This recipe aumaigre recipe can can also be
prepared NOle. maigre (without

sAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke à la la moelle. moelle. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS

D'ARTTCHAlITS Artichoke quarters quarters i A À rl LA noer,rr MOELLE - Cook the the
artichoke artîchoke quarters quarters as as described described for for thoseaujus.
tbose aujus. Finish Finish offwith offwith Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE), SAUCE), and and garnish gamish with with thin Ihin slices slices of of
bone-marrow bone-marrow which which have have been been poached poached and
drained. drained. Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters i à la la portugaise.
QUARTIERS QUARTIERS poRTUGAIsE - Simmer the D'AnrrcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS A À LA LA
PORTUGAISE the quarters quarters in in 4 4 (scant oil, together tablespoons (* (1
cup) cup) oil, together with with 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (seant and pounded
Addzpeeled l cup) cup) chopped chopped onions. onions. Add 2 peeled and pounded
tomatoes, tomatoes, * Cook in chopped parsley. and a a little lillie grated grated
garlic garlic and and chopped parsley. Cook in an an gently. Serve a vegetable
vegetable dish dish Serve in uncovered pan, simmering gently. in a chopped parsley.
and sprinkle with witb choppcd parsley.

lnrrcrulur D'HryER WINTER. ART1CHAlIT ARTICHOKT'., WlNTER. ARTlCHOKE. D'HIVER

(q.v.). artichoke (q.v.). name for for Jerusalem artiehoke name

Another Another

TREE. BREADFRUIT TREE. See BREADFRUIT mrocmps -- See ARTOCARPUS. ARTOCARPE

principal food refood rcThe principal AI\D BOULONNAIS BOLJLONNAIS ARTOIS AND - The
ARTOIS sea. province of from the the sea. France come come from of France ancient
province sources ofthis of this ancient sources port in in France, France, fishing
port most important important fishing Boulogne is is the the most Boulogne Whole
eonvoys convoys mackerel. Whole and mackerel. of herring herring and supply of with
the best best supply with (gurnard) and gurnet (gurnard) and herring, gurnet
mackerel, herring, lorries carrying carrying mackerel, of lorries of fish fish with
supplies supplies of day with every day leave this this seaport seaport every other
fish fish leave other parts of France. of France. all parts for a11 and is damp
damp and rather variable, variable, is region, rather this region, climate of of
this The climate The is found found growing, so much fruit fruit is not much fruit
growîng, so nol for fruit not suitable suitable for not is the the with bœr, beer,
is together with apples. Cider, Cider, together except eider cider apples. there,
excepl there, region. of the the region. main beverage of good vegetables. produce
very vegetables. gardens produœ very good Artois market market gardens Artois
particularly fine. Good fine. Good are particularly around Saint-Omar Those from
from around Saint-Omar are Those poultry produced in in Artois; Artois; but quality
beef and but poultry mutton are are produced and mutton quality quality. of average
quality. and game are only of and Magnificent all kinds. kinds. -'Y.l.G'5""'"''''''
fish of of ail Rivers and ponds abound in fish rivers, small coastal rivers, of the
the small in the the estuar:ies estuaries of is found io salmon is salmon great
delicacy. delicacy. flesh of of great with ftesh trout with and, in in the the
Canche, Canche, trout and, very numerous. not very numerous. These are are not
specialities -- These Culinary special.ities and shcllfish. shellfish. fish aod on
seafood seafood -- fish are based based on of them them are Almost all of Almost
arc andouilles andouilles (q.v.) regionare: principal specialities of of the the
region The principal The saucisses de such as as saucisses charcuterie sucb d'Arras
and and various charcuterie d'Arras (blood) puddings; puddWs; (country sa black
(blood) sausages); campagne (country usages) ; black
Valenciennes tongue. popular in Artois in Artois very popular latter very the
latter soup, the Beer soup soup and and leek soup, Beer and Flemish origin origin
and a dish dish of of Flemish hotch-potch, a in Flanders; Flanders; hotcn-polCh,
and in and dishes excellent dishes pdti of Montreuil-sur-Mer - excellent of
Montreuil-sur-Mer woodcock pâté woodcock prunes rabbit wilh with prunes wild rabbil
made nowadays; nowadays; wild which are are not not often often made which goose à
dlaftamande; laflamande; Valenciennes; goose orraisins, raisins, a a speciality of
Valenciennes; speciality of or

5l 51
ARUM MACULATUM MACULATUM ARUM

ffi

kl
Port of of Boulogne. Boulogne. On On the the lefl: left: trawler trawlerharbour.
harbour.On On lhe right: harbour theright: harbourfor forsmaller smaller fishing
fishingvessels vessels(Percevaf) (percevaf Pon

eel; the the caudière caudiire de de Berck, Berck, a a kind kind of matelote
similar of matelote similar jellied eel; to the the chaudrée chaudrie of of A
Aunis. unis. to There is is naturally naturally a a whole whole range range of of
fish fish dishes, dishes, from from There mackerel à d la la boulonnaise
boulonnaise to to more more complicated complicated disbes dishes made made
mackerel of various various kinds kinds of of sea sea fish: fish: burbot, burbot,
turbot, turbot, striped striped mullet, mullet, of (green pollack), smelt, coal-
fish coal-fish (green pollack), bass, bass, sole, sole, red mullet. skate. red
mullet, skate. smelt, But Boulogne Boulogne is, is, above above a1l, all, the the
town town of of herring herring and and But mackerel - this this can can be be
traced traced back back to to the the ninth ninth century. century. The The
mackerelherring industry industry herring dried, dried, smoked, pickled or smoked,
pickled or sold sold - herring herring ready for for serving serving has assumed
assumed enormous proportions. enormous proportions. - has ready Herring are
prepared in are prepared in a a variety variety of of ways. ways. There There are
are Herring bloaters, slightly slightly salted salted herring herring which which
have have been been smoked; smoked; bloaters, salted herring proper; proper; smoked
smoked herring herring called gmdnrmes; called gendarmes; sai ted herring kippers,
cured cured and and split; split; herring herring pickled pickled in in white white
wine; cured cured kippers, herring fillets in oil; oil; canned canned herring
herring and preparations and other other preparations herring fi/lets in of this
this fish fish which which are are eaten eaten as as hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre. .
of
DuDkirk
\\

jellied

Canned mackerel mackerelalso alsocome come from fromBoulogne, Canned Boulogne,and

andare areoften often eaten as ashors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. eaten Among the
pastries and the pastries and confectionery confectionery products products of
Among of the the region are are the the Arras Arras hearts hearts and and caramels,
caramelr, the region theLille Lille délices, ddtices, the Cambrai Cambrai bêtises,
b1tises, and and the Berck chiques. the Berck the chiques.

ARUM MACULA MACULATLTM This plant plant is ARUM TUM -- This is also also known
known under under the names names of of lords lords and and ladies, ladies, cuckoo-
pint, the cuckoo-pint, calfs calf s foot and footand wake-robin.In French it it is
is known known as wake-robin. In French (pepperas chou-poivre chou-poivre-
(peppercabbage) because because of of the the acridity acridity of cabbage) leaves
and of its its leaves and roots. roots. In In the U.S.A. U.S.A. it it is is
sometimes sometimes called ginger for the called wild wild ginger for the the same
same reason. reason. The roots roots are are much much valued valued by The by the
the Arabs, Arabs, who who cook cook them them on hot hot cinders. cinders. on
ASAFOETIDA -- Resinous Resinous gwn gum of ASAFOETIDA of a a species species of of
oriental oriental In spite spite of of its its offensive offensive smell, palm. In
smell, some people in some people in the the East East
50 km.

. WII~ /J/a{Jresse woodcotk au fumer Bloaters. Wam

CramiQues·~ChJQueS J Ban K ouckeborerom. Langues de char

Biscuits

\~

Green 80Up ~ Beer 1I0Up

..'
'

BELGIU
'" .Roub

Endiv,e',
Cauilllow~s
Mussels
Salted and smoked smoked herrings herrings Henings augratin gl'arln Herrings au
Steaks Steaks /arcr's farâ~ Cider Sheep Cider Sheep

Cassel
••

St. Omer_ ---.~

•

Chlc:'en ala flamande • Butter. Poultry Mt des Cats ehe~se • • ,Plum tan 'Ir
Tourcoin~ Galettes

Mt. des Cal~ ch~ese

Haze\rouck·

Juniper.. ,...·· • Junlpcr Juniper

~~~[:leTouquet. ~ Paris-Plage
Caudidre,

leTouquet-

Wood
eets Frogs Frogs CrApes Crt!pes

ekplirés

• .. LIr.r.F. AndoUJJf~rles. Taliburs O Bab/utes. Cracknel ..",} ::. Smoked tongues

Tablettes aL au Sl/'op Tablettes siroo Cares, Sottisesand I Carrés. Sottises and
Ddlices Délices de de Lille L"le a Fif ed waflles. Filled waHles. Little Little
euinouins QUlnQulnS

'.

ULLE.

Jeilied€-ilgMontnmll
..-. -.! r?noo"'Béthune '''--'''' 4ndoul/eftes t.:, 1.::
f

\r

tt
Rabbit with with prunes Rabbit orunes or or raisins Goyère Smoked tongues, tongues.
Goyere Smoked G~leau carpeaux carpeaux G6teau

Andou;elles

berckoises

St. Pol

a Lenr Lens

Hotch-potch

Do~~.
".

.Valencie~

Denain Denaln
Andouillettes Coeursdbrras Caramels

.. ". iFt.."'tt ".," Maubeuge

..

~,,,,,,.

.... \

s'i>~

'!i;l(0

... .-.

BEER

alelo,le de Sambre

RQo"

Cheese I(om Marville Marville CheeseJrom lamb Calves' Calves' sweetbreads,

sweetbreads. Andouilles f I Trout. cravfisherayiish, BCtlses, Biscuits Trout, !
Avesnes.'rom Helpe. Che~se rom pe. Hel C h-e.ese Avefrreraf Irom Marv,lIeana from
Maruille anb Maroilles ,9

•
PICARD PICARD Y Y
Gastronomic Gaslronomie map map of ofArtois Artois and and Boulonnais Boulonnais

...." . ,~ \s....::roir"' l* '.'! .. \O\~ ......,....-

52 52
ASPARAGUS
and Far Far East East use use it it as as a a condiment. condiment. The The Romans
Romans added added it it and many dishes dishes under under the the name name of of
sylphium sylphium or or silphion. silphion. to many to ASBESTOS. AMIANTE AMIANTE -
Fibrous Fibrous mineral mineraI substance substance which which ASBESTOS. is found
found in in eruptive eruptive rocks. rocks. Asbestos Asbestos fibres fibres are are
sufficiently sufficiently is to be be plaited plaited and and woven. woven. The The
principal principal characteristic characteristic flexible to flexible ofasbestos
is its its incombustibility; incombustibility; a a piece piece of ofasbestic
asbestic material material of asbestos is put put into into ablazingfire a blazing
fire will will not not burn. burn. The properties properties of asbestos asbestos
are are exploited exploited nowadays nowadays for for The kitchen stoves. stoves .
Asbestos, Asbestos, being being a a bad bad the interiors interiors of kitchen the
conductor, does not not absorb absorb heat. beat. Unlike metal, it it reflects
reflects conductor, by radiation, radiation, and and the the maximum maximum of of
heat heat is is obtained obtained with the by of fuel, fuel, which results results
in a considerable saving of minimum of minimum expense. expense. ASCALAPHUS - He
was was Pluto's Pluto's cook cook and the the guardian guardian of
ASCALAPHUSaccording to to legend. legend. This This position position of of
confidence Proserpine, according brought him him misfortune, for for he he incurred
incurred the the enmity enmity of brought Ceres. Jupiter Jupiter had had agreed to
return return Proserpine to Ceres, her Ceres. condition that that the the girl had
eaten nothing during du ring mother, on condition mother, the infernal infernal
regions. regions. Ascalaphus revealed revealed her sojourn in the her while that
Proserpine had eaten six grains of pomegranate while she was there, and Ceres
turned him into an owl because of she this indiscreet revelation. revelation.
Minerva, to to console him him in in his this misfortune, took him bim under her
protection. protection. misfortune,
FRÊNE - The young shoots shoots of of this tree can be eaten in a ASH. rn6Ns salado
The seeds seeds are sometimes sometimes preserved. preserved. salad.
FRÉNETTE An economical drink which is drink which ASHDRINK. rn6Nerrp - An be
health-giving. health-giving. Its basis is ash leaves, and the recipe said to be as
follows: is as g. (lf oz.) Boil 75g. (3 oz., and 55 55 g.(li ash leaves and 75 g.
(3 oz., 3 cups) ash

Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagus; asparagus ; Italian !talian asparagus asparagus or

or purple purple Genoa Genoa asparagus ; white ; white asparagus; white Belgian
Belgian asparagus asparagus; white German German asparagus' asparagus. There is
also also green green asparagus, which is is sub-divided sub-divided into into two
two types: asparagus types: small, used used for for garnishes garnishes and and
known known as as asparagus tips, and large, which which is prepared prepared llke
like Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagusasparagus. Early asparagus asparagus can be
found in in France from from February February onwards, and is usually usually sold
at high prices. priees. Method Method of of preparation. preparation. This is
simple. Scrape, Scrape, or or better better still, peel peel the the asparagus,
asparagus, wash wash and and tie tie into into medium-sized medium-sized salted
water; water; of boiling bundles, and cook in a a fairly full pan pan of boiling
salted bundles, and quart) generous quart) allow allow l| 1t teaspoons teaspoons
salt per per litre litre (lf (1 t pints, pints, generous is cooked, drain the
water. When When it it is the asparagus thoroughly thoroughly a special or on a and
arrange arrange on a dish covered covered with a napkin, napkin, or a flat which is
equipped with a asparagus fiat strainer. asparagus dish which depend20 minu
minutes, from The cooking cooking period varies varies f rom 18 to 20 tes,
dependnot be It should not ofthe ing on the size and nature of the asparagus. It be
and tasteless. tasteless. it watery and overcooked, as as this renders it a !ittle
little becomes season asparagus bec Note. At the end of the season ornes a short
time water for for a a short fresh water into fresh and should be bitter, and be
put into it has been cooked. Drain thoroughly. after il sauces. with various
various sauces. served with Hot or cold asparagusis asparagus is served or cold Hot
a running running is to be served served cold, it should be left under a When it is
When tap to cool.

ing ing purposes purposes these these fall fall into into several several main main
types; types: French French asparagus, wbich the the best best known known and and
most most delicious delicious is is asparagus, of which

(5| pints, pints, 6!pints) water. roasted water. In in 3 litres (Si 6| pints)
roasted chicory chicory in 3 litres (5+ lb.) another 40 g. lb.) sugar and 40 2i kg.
sugar and vessel dissolve kg. (51 another vessel dissolve 2-!(3j pints, 4 (I-!(l\
oz.) 4| pints) water. oz) citric acid in 2 litres (3-!(l oz.) g. (1 then add 25 g.
Mix the two liquids, leave to cool; oz.) add25 cool;then yeast dissolved a barrel.
Add Add the whole into a dissolved in water. Pour the enough water to make 50 (l I
gallons, 14 l4 gallons) and and 50 litres (II leave to fennent 12 days. ferment for
for 12 Bottle the liquid, corking the in and store store in the bottles tightly,
and a a cool cool place. The drink is of a certain certain amount amount of
lemonade with a of lemonade is a kind of alcoholic content. content.
ASHES. combustion. Various Residue after after combustion. cENDRES -- Residue
ASHES. CENDRES foods fire, notably notably ashes of a wood wood fire, in the the
ashes of a cooked in are cooked foods are chestnuts, potatoes and and truffies.
truffies. chestnuts, potatoes ASIALIA. in It occurs occurs in of saliva. saliva. It
A deficiency deficiency of AsIALIE -- A ASIALIA. ASIALIE certain in certain certain
nervous nervous conditions. conditions. certain diseases diseases and and in
- Forced ASITIA. Loss of desire for for food. food. ASITIEabstinence. Loss of
desire ASITIA. ASITIE Forced abstinence.
asparagus Lauris asparagus,' asparagus/Argenteuil Lauris Argenteuil asparagus

ASPARAGUS. genus of Liliaceae, containing containing A genus of Liliaceae,

ASPARAGUS. ASPERGE mpnncE -- A more and warm warm found in in temperate temperate
and more than than a hundred species, species, found a hundred regions America. of
Europe Europe and and America. regions of Asparagus places, grows wild wild in in
meadows meadows and and bushy bushy places, Asparagus grows especially great part
part of France, as as weil well of France, in sandy sandy soil, soil, over over a a
great especially in as Mediterranean the Atlantic Atlantic and and the the
Mediterranean as on on sandy sandy coasts coasts on on the sides. sides. In reign
vogue during during the the reign In France, France, asparagus asparagus came came
into into vogue of grow who was was the the first first to to grow Louis XIV, to
Quintinie, of Louis XIV, thanks thanks to Quintinie, who asparagus He was was able
supply the the royal royal for Le Roi Soleil. Soleil. He to supply able to
asparagus for Le Roi kitchen year round. with asparagus all the the year round.
kitchen with asparagus all Asparagus (common asparagus), has been been asparagus),
has Asparagus officinalis fficinalis (common widely garden time immemorial
immemorial as as aa garden since time widely cultivated cultivated since vegetable.
young sprouts, either sprouts, or or shoots, shoots, are are eaten eaten either
vegetable. Its Its young whole just the In Spain, i.e., the terminal buds. buds. In
Spain, whole or or just the tips, tips, i.e., the terminal young young shoots have
long, long, sharp sharp species, which which have shoots of of aa certain certain
species, thorns also eaten. thorns on on the the stems, stems, are are also eaten.
A great number for cookcookasparagus varieties varietiesexist, exist, but but for A
great number of of asparagus 53 53

(l+ lb.) g. (Ii lb.) asparagus asparagus about 600 600 g. allow about speaking,
allow Generally speaking, Generally (see SA person, served SAUCE). per person, with
sauce sauce (see served with per UCE). This should should D'ASPERGEs -- This
coNSERVE D'ASPERGES asparagus. CONSERVE Canned Canned asparagus. gathered
asparagus. asparagus. freshly gathered with freshly not be attempted except except
with be attempted not wash the the but do do not not wash carefully, but and dry
dry carefully, the skin skin and Scrape off off the Scrape the as to to have have
themall them all the so as ends evenly evenly so asparagus. Cut Cut off offthe the
ends asparagus. stalks of of choosing stalks small bundles, bundles, choosing tie
into into small same length, length, and and tie same cooking. even cooking. to
ensure ensure even same thickness to the me thickness the sa prefor precan be be
obtained obtained for asparagus can for asparagus Special Special boilers boilers
for the for controlling controlling the with devices devices for are equipped
equipped with serving; serving; these these are provided. Fill Fill the boiler, the
boiler, basket provided. the boiling boiling basket movement of of the movement
given, with water to to which which with water instructions given, according
according to to the the instructions boil. Put Put the the per cent to the the
boil. added, and and bring bring to salt has has been been added, 8 cent salt 8 per
and them up up and standing them into the the basket, basket, standing asparagus
bundles bundles into asparagus into the the basket into packing them Lower the the
basket too closely. closely. Lower not not packing them too up to to are immersed
immersed up bundles are the asparagus asparagus bundles boiler boiler so so that
that the minutes. for 33minutes. andboil boil for one-third their length length and
one-thirdof of their into the the lower into it down down lower and drop drop it
Disengage basket and Disengage the the basket are immersed, immersed, tips are of
the theasparagus asparagus tips boiler, sothat two-thirdsof boiler, so that two-
thirds minutes. and 3minutes. and boil boil for for another another 3 plunge it
cold into aa tub tub of ofcold it into Remove and plunge Remove the the basket
basket and jetsof of water water cannot cannot thejets that the care that running
running water, water, taking taking care
ASPARAGUS ASPARAGUS
damage the theasparagus asparagus tips. tips.Leave Leave in inthis thiswater
waterfor forabout about an an damage hour.Drain Drain with greatcare. with great
care. hour. Putthe theasparagus asparagusinto jars, placing intocans preserving
jars, cansor or preserving placing Put some with heads up and others with heads
down. Cover with sorne with heads up and others with heads down. Coyer with water
which which has has been been salted salted in in the proportion of the proportion
g. of 300 300g. water (11 oz. l| cups) refined salt to l0 litreJ (9 quarts, 1l
quarti) (II oz. li cups) refined salt to 10 litres (9 quarts, II quarts) water.
water. Cooking time time in in Cooking Cooking time time in in Weight of cans a
115"C: (718"F.) Cooking Weight of cans a 115°C. (238°F.) abain-marie bain-marie a
steriliser steriliser g. (l lb.) 500 g. l0 minutes minutes 20 minutes minutes 500
(1 lb.) 10 20 (2* lb.) I ke. l5 minutes minutes 30 minutes minutes 1 kg. (2i lb.)
15 30 (a+ lb.) 2 kg. 20 minutes 40 minutes 2 kg. (41 lb.) 20 minutes 40 minutes

Cnnned green green asparagus porNTss asparagus tips. tips. CONSERVE @NsERvE DE DE
POINTES Canned Divide the the asparagus asparagus stalks stalks into into three
three - Divide parts: the base, the middle and the tips. parts: the base, the
middle and the tips. put the First put (the toughest the bases bases (the toughest
parts) parts) into into a a saucepan saucepan of of First salted boiling boiling
water water and and boil boil them them for for 2 2 minutes. minutes. Add Add the
the salted middle sections sections and and boil boil for for another another 2 2
minutes. minutes. Add Add the the tips tips middle and boil boil for for a a third
third 2 2 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain very very carefully. carefully. and Put
them jars and them into into cans preserving jars cans or or preserving and coyer
cover with with the the Put brine as as in the preceding recipe. same brine same in
the preceding recipe. Cooking time time in in Cooking cooking time time in in
Cooking weight of of cans cans a (gT.F.) a 110° IIT"c: Weight C. (230°F.) a bain-
marie bain-marie a steririser steriliser g. (l lb.) 500 l0 minutes 20 minutes
minutes 500 g. (lIb.) 10 minutes 20 (2f lb.) I kg. 15 minutes 30 minutes 30 minutes
15 minutes 1 kg. (2i lb.) (a| lb.) 2 kg. kg. (41 lb.) 40 minutes minutes 40 2 Cream
of of asparagus asparagus soup soup See SOUP, SOUP, Cream Crearn soups. soups. -
See Cream Aryaragus beaped heaped in in a a croustade croustade à I la ta Carême.
Car6me. Br.nssoN Asparagus BUISSON D'AspERGEs EN cRousrADn A u cmtrr,rn Cook the of
- Cook the tips tips of D'ASPERGES EN CROUSTADE À LA CARÊME thick white asparagus
asparagus in salted water, a thick white in salted water, keeping keeping thern
them a little a napkin. Coat each Drain and and dry dry on on a napkin. Coat each
one one little underdone. underdone. Drain in in aspic aspic mayonnaise.
mayonnaise. Chill Chili thoroughly thoroughly in in a a refrigerator. refrigerator.
Arrange Arrange in in a a low low flan flan shell, shell, made made of of pie pie
pastry pastry and and baked baked blind, and half-filled half-filled with with a a
salad salad of of green green asparagus asparagus tips tips blind, and and truffes,
seasoned with oil and lemon iuice. and trutHes, seasoned with oil and lemon juice.
D'ASrERGES vERTEs D'ASPERGES VERTES -

Asparagus au gratin au gratin Asparagus

Asparagus heaped in a croustade d la Car€me Asparagus beaped in a croustade li la

Carême

Asparagus Asparagus I à la la flamande. Oamande. AspERGEs ASPERGES A À r,,c, LA

rrA,MAr.rDe FLAMANDE - Serve Serve hot, hot, with with melted melted butter.
butter. Halves Halves of of hot, hot, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs are are
served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates served separately. The
guests mash the eggs on their plates and and mix mix them them with with the the
melted melted butter. butter. Asparagus in batter. batler. FRrror FRITOT D'Aspm.cEs
D'ASPERGES - Cook Cook the the Asparagus frid fried in tips of large green white or
asparagus tips of large white or green asparagus in in salted salted boiling
boiling water water for 5 minutes. Drain, for 5 minutes. Drain, dry, dry, and and
marinate marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in juice oil, oil, lemon lemon
juice or or vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. When When nearly
nearly ready ready to to serve, serve, dip dip the the asparagus asparagus tips
tips into into a a light light batter batter and and fry fry in in smoking-hot
smoking-hot deep deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with
fine fine salt, and arrange in a heap on a a napkin. napkin. salt, and arrange in a
heap on Asparagus Asparagus ià la la Fontanelle. Fontanelle. lspm.cns ASPERGES A À
ra LA roNr,lNELLE FONTANELLE Boil Boil the the asparagus asparagus in in salted
salted water water and and drain. drain. Serve Serve with with melted melted
butter. butter. Soft-boiled Soft-boiled eggs eggs are are served served with with
this this dish, dish, the the guests guests dipping asparagus in in the the melted
melted butter butter and and then then in in the the dipping the the asparagus egg.
egg.
54 54

in a a fireproof fireproof dish. dish. in Pour Mornay Mornay sauce (seeSAUCE) sauce
(see over the the tips tips only. Pour SAUCE) over only. Coyer Cover the rest rest
of of the the asparagus asparagus with greaseproof paper. with greaseproof paper.
Sprinkle the Sprinkle the sauce sauce with grated Parmesan with grated Parmesan
cheese cheese and and melted melted butter, the butter, and brown brown the the
tips. tips. Remove Remove the paper before the paper before serving. serving. and
Asparagus à i la la milanaise. milanaise. ASPERGES AspERcEs À A LA r,.l MILANAISE
Dur,c,Nrusn -Asparagus Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe
recipe for for Asparagus au gratin, Proceed au gratin, but omit omit the the Mornay
Mornay sauce. sauce. but Asparagus à i la la Mornay. Mornay. ASPERGES AspERGEs À A
LA u MORNAY rrlonN,ly Asparagus - Another name for for Asparagus au gratin. name
Asparagus with with noisette noisette butter. butter. ASPERGES AspERcEs AU AU
BEURRE Asparagus NoTSETTE Cook the asparagus by the usual usual method. Serve
NOISETTE - Cook Noisette butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) separately. separately.
Noisette Alternatively, arrange cooked and well-drained well-drained asparagus
asparagus Alternatively, arrange in a a dish, and keep it warm in the oyen. oven.
Just before serving, in serving, sprinkle it it with with sizzling noisette
sprinkle noisette butter. Asparagus polonaise. ASPERGES I la mpm,cns A Asparagus à
la polonaise. À rl LA poLoNArsE POLONAISE Proceed described in Proceed as as
described in the recipe for Asparagus Asparagus mr au gratin. gratin. Cover Coyer
the tips with with chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and parsley.
parsley. When pour on When ready ready to to serve, serve,pour on sizzling sizzling
Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) in in which freshly grated white
breadcrumbs breadcrumbs have have been been fried fried until until light light
golden brown. brown. Alternatively, Alternatively, arrange the the asparagus on a a
serving serving dish and breadcrumbs separately. separately. and serve serve the
butter and breadcrumbs Asparagus soufr6. SOUFFLÉS, Souffii Soufflé of various
various souffié. See See SOUFFLES, vegetables.' vegetables. Asparagus Asparagus
tips tips for for gardshes. garnisbes. porNTEs POINTES D',q,spERcns D'ASPERGES
Scrape, Scrape, if if necessary, necessary, and and cut cut the the tips tips into
into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) (2-inch) lengths; lengths; tie tie into into bundles.
bundles. Cook Cook as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for
Green Green asparagus asparagus tlps. tips. (see (see below). below). If If this
this garnish garnish is is used used for for hot hot dishes, dishes, the the
asparagus asparagus tips tips should he added added at at the the very very last
last moment; moment; cook cook them them fiist first should be in in water, water,
drain, drain, and and dress dress with with melted melted butter butter or or
cream. cream. Asparagus an excellent excellent garnish garnish for for eggs eggs
which which have have Asparagus makes makes an been been scrambled, scrambled,
lightly lightly boiled, boiled, au au plat, plat, poached poached or or in in an an
omelette. omelette. Also Also for for some sorne fish fish dishes, dishes, and and
for for meat meat served served in in small small portions portions - cutlets,
cutlets, escalopes, escalopes, noisettes, noisettes, small small fillets, fillets,
tournedas, tournedos, etc., etc., for for calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads,
and and for for fowls fowls and and chickens. chickens. When Wh en asparagus
asparagus tips tips are are intended intended for for garnishing garnishing or or
for for cold salads, they they must must be be dipped dipped in in cold co Id water
water as as soon soon as as co Id salads, they they are are co.oked, co.oked, and
and well weil drained. drained. Season Season with with vinaigrette, vinaigrette,
or or mayonnaise, mayonnaise, or or bind bind with wi th meat mea tjelly. jelly.
Asparagus Asparagustips tipswith witbcretm. cream.porNTEs POINTESD'AspERGEs
D'ASPERGESA Àr,c, LAcRi;ur CRÈME Cook asparagus asparagus tips tips and and add add
a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh -- Cook double double cream
cream which which has has previously previously been been scalded. scalded. Blend
Blend in in lightly and season. season. Arrange Arrange in in a a vegetable
vegetable dish dish with with tips tips lightly and uppermost. uppermost.

Asparagus au gratin. ASPERGES au gratin. AspERcEs AU AU GRATIN GRATTNCook in in

salted salted Asparagus - Cook water and and drain drain thoroughly. thoroughly.
Arrange Arrange the the asparagus asparagus in in tiers water tiers
ASPIC
Asparagrs Asparagus tips in butter. porNTEs POINTES D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES AU BEURRE
BEURRERemove the the tips from from a a bundle bundle of asparagus; scrape scrape
and dice the rest. Cook Cook the diced diced pieces, drain well, weil, and dry in a
pan over heat. Add small pieces of butter in the proportion proportion of of 75 g.
(3 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) butter butter to 250 g. (9 oz.) asparaasparagus, and
stir gently. Heap into a dish, and garnish gamish with the tips, which have been
lightly lightly cooked in salted water. Green asparagus tips. rorvr.ns POINTES
D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES vERTEs VERTES - Cut off the tough stalks, keeping the tender
parts of green green asparaasparagus. Tie these into bundles of 8 to l0 10 shoots.
Cut the lower lower part of these bundles into dice, keeping keepillg the actual
tips tied together. Cook the diced asparagus asparagus in boiling salted water for
4 minutes, then add the bundles of of tips. Boil briskly, with the saucepan
saucepan uncovered, for 7 or 8 minutes. Drain the bundles and and the the diced
diced asparagus. asparagus. Dip Dip in in cold co Id water water and and cool.
Proceed indicated in the chosen recipe. recipe. Proceed as indicated Puree Purée of
green green rsparrgus. asparagus. prinrn PUREE D'AspERcEs D'ASPERGES vERTES VERTES
Cook Cook asparagus asparagus tips in fast-boiling, fast-boiling, salted salted
water, drain, and rub through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat the pur6e, purée,
and and add add butter and cream. cream. This puree purée is used as a garnish.
White ssparagus CROÛTE cRlrrNfr GRATINÉE lux AUX asparagus with fried bread. cno0ru
ASrERGES lb.) of white asparagus ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHESBlanch 500 500 g. (l
(lIb.) ofwhite asparagus - Blanch tips tips in salted water for for 8 minutes,
minutes, drain, drain, and and simmer simmer in butter until cooked. Cut decrusted
bread into slices slices l0 10 cm. (4 inches) and 6 cm. (2|inches) (21 inch es)
wide, and and fry in butter. butter. inch es) long long and Put Put 7 7 or or 8 8
asparagus asparagus tips on each each slice slice of offried bread, sprinkle
sprinkle fried bread, with grated Parmesan cheese, cheese, pour on the butter in
which which the asparagus asparagus was cooked, cooked, and brown the top top
lightly. White aspuagus asparagus with witb melted butter. butter. ASrERGEs
ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHES AU AU BELJRRE BEURRE FoNDU FONDU * - Cook the asparagus
asparagus in salted water, drain and serve, piping hot, with warm melted butter.
The butter should be be melted over over a a gentle gentle heat heat and and
seasoned seasoned with butter salt, pepper and a dash of of lemon lemon juice.
juice. Pur6e Purée of white asparagus. asparagus. pun6n PURÉE D'AspnRGES D'ASPERGES
BLANcHES BLANCHES Blanch 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) white asparagus asparagus tips
lips for 8 minutes, drain, drain, and simmer sim mer lightly in butter. butter.
Season with salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten with 2t Moisten with 2-!- dl. dl.
(scant 1- pint, generous generous cup) thick Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see
SAUCE). Boil Boil for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Rub Rub through through a fine
sieve. Heat Heat the pur6e purée and add butter. butter. This This purde purée is
used used as as a a garnish garnish for poached or lightly boiled boiled eggs,
eggs, for for small pieces pieces of of meat, meat, for for chicken, chicken, for
filling patties and tartlets. tartlets. White White aspffagus asparagus salad.
SALADE SALADE D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES BLANcHEs BLANCHES the asparagus asparagus tips
tips in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, dip in in cold cold Cook the

water, drain again and dry in a napkin. a napkin. Arrange in a Arrange a salad bowl
or an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'eavre dish. Pour on well-whisked vinaigrette, or a oil,
lemon juice, a mixture of oil, well-whisked well whisked, so that the sauce pepper.
This must be weil salt and pepper. covers the asparagus in a layer. Serve chilled.
ASIERGES BLANCHES BLANcIIES White asparagus with with cold cold sauces. White
saucesL ASPERGES AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES FRorDEs FROIDES AvEc and drain. Cook the the
asparagus asparagus and - Cook Arrange Arrange on a dish serve with one dish and
serve one of of the following sauces: Mayonnaise, Mustard, Mus tard, Tartare,
Vinaigrette Vinnigrette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). White White asparagus with hot bot
sauces. sauces. ASeERGEs ASPERGES BLANCHES asparagus with BLANcHEs AVEc AVEC sAUcEs
SAUCES CHAUDES cHAUDES asparagus in salted water - Cook the asparagus and drain.
drain. Serve the following following sauces: and Serve separately one one of the
sauces: Butter, Bdtarde, Bâtarde, Chantilly, Maltaise, Chantilly, Cream, Cream,
Hollandaise, Maltaise, Mousseuse, Noisette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). ASPERULA. ASpERULE
ASPÉRULE - Plant which is is both both useful useful and ASPERUI"A. pleasant. It It
is called sweet is also also called sweet woodruff, mugwort, sweet sv)eet grass and
quinsy quinsy wort. wort. Its ftowers are used as as an grass and Its white white
flowers are used infusion, and for distilling distilling liqueurs. ln some sorne
northern northem countries it is is also used for flavouring fiavouring In
sausages. sausages.

putting slices It consists consists of ofputting slices or fillets of dishes. It of

chicken, game,

- Term which applies to to a arranging cold ASPIC a way of arranging

various meats, fish, fish, vegetables, vegetables, fruit, fruit, etc., etc., into
into moulded moulded various jelly. Many authors authors believe that that this
this name name comes cornes from from the Many coldness recalls that that of the ca
lied asp, asp, 'whose icy coldness serpent called jelly', jelly', but it is more
probably derived from the Greek word aspis, which which means buckler buckler or
shield. It was, in fact, in this aspr,s, moulds were made; others were made in form
that the first moulds a coiled coiled snake, snake, doubtless to justify the name
name the shape of a 'aspic'. Whatever its its origin, origin, the the word word
aspic is is applied applied to to very Whatever preparations: foie Joie gras gras
in in aspic, aspic, chicken chicken in in aspic, different preparations: partridge
in aspic, lobster lobs ter in aspic, aspic, fillets fiUets of oJ sole in aspic. For
methods methods of aspic aspic preparations preparations of meat, meat, chicken,
For game, shellfish and and fish, fish, see see the the following following entries
in their game, alphabetical order: CHICKEN, CHICKEN, LOBSTER, PHEASANT, PHEASANT,
alphabetical SHRIMP, SOLE. SHRIMP, made of of fruit and set in in jelly jelly
moulds are also Sweet dishes made ca lied aspics. aspics. The word word aspic is is
used, used, too, too, for the actual called jelly. jelly. ln In his book book
devoted to cold co Id enties, entrées, Car6me Carême describes the method of of
preparing preparing aspic jelly as follows: 'Clean 'Clean and and singe singe 2 2
chickens, chickens, wash wash them them thoroughly, thoroughly, truss them, and and
place place in a small marmite marmite (q.v.) with a round truss of veal, veal,
other other veal trimmings and a little little ham. Add 6 boned of and blanched
calves' feet, fill the marmite marmite with water, water, and from the flame. A
leave to cook on a hot stove, but away from much lighter lighter aspic, aspic, easy
easy to to clarify, cJarify, is is obtained obtained by by this much process. Skim
thoroughly, and add half half a bay leaf, leaf, a little process. and basil, basil,
a bunch of parsley and and spring onions, onions, 2 thyme and carrots and 2 onions.
on ions. Keep Keep the the jelly jelly simmering simmering gently and 2 carrots for
4 hours. for 'Whisk 4 4 egg egg whites whites with a a glass glass of ofwhite or
Madeira, Madeira, 'Whisk white wine or you wish to and the the same same amount
amollnt of ofveal stock if ifyou to give give it it some sorne veal stock and
colour; if if not, not, omit omit the the stock. stock. Add Add to to thejelly, the
jelly, place place on on a a high colour; fla me, and whisk until until the mixture
is boiling. Turn heat to flame, Taste, in case a little little salt is needed. very
low. Taste, Coyer the pan and leave leave to simmer for about about 2 minutes,
Cover be clear. cJear. mixture should be when the mixture napkin in water, water,
wring wring out out well, weil, and and tie lie the Rinse a a napkin Rinse corners
to an upturned chair. Strain the aspic through the napkin.' napkin.' Carême also
also describes describes how how aspic aspic should be be coloured: coloured:
Cardme of the principal presentations presentations of of cold co Id dishes
consists consists 'One of these clarified, c1arified, transparent transparent
jellies jellies of 2 colours only of these one should be be white white and the
other other of of a good strong colour.' one 55 55

Arrangement of of aspic, after after Arrangement Carême Car6me

ASPIC ASPIC

Aspic moulds moulds Aspic

great Laguipière perfect colourings how the great Laguipibre achieved achieved
perfect colourings He tells how jellies: 'Melt granulated sugar 'Melt granulated
sugar and, and, without without moistenmoistenfor his jellies: ing it, it, let let
it it colour colour little little by little on by little on red-hot red-hot
cinders, cinders, which which ing quarter of should take take about about a a
qu~rter of an an hour. hour. When When it it becomes becomes should amber-red
caramel, glass of with half caramel, moisten moisten with half a a glass water and
of water and amber-red place the pan over hotter fiame. flame. After the pan over a
a hotter After several several minutes minutes of of place a clear amber-red,
totally clear amber-red, totally unlike unlike the boiling it becomes a the bitter
bitter get black caramel w which is allowed allowed to to get black on on a a high
high fiame flame and and caramel hich is commonly called called "monkey's "monkey's
blood.'" blood."' which is commonly The modern modern method process is method of
given of the the clarifying clarifying process The is given under the the
entryentitled entry entitled JELLIES, and and in in the below. under the one one
below. jelly (4| quarts, of aspic quarts, litres (41 aspic jeUy To c1arify clarify
5 Clarification of 5 litres - To jelly stock, quarts) jelly (l lb.) lean 5| quarts)
add 3 egg g. (lIb.) stock, add egg whites and and 500 lean 500 g. minced beef. Add
a a tablespoon oftarragon of tarragon and and a a tablespoon tablespoon chervil,
roughly roughly chopped. Whisk Whisk lightly. of chervil, lightly. Heat Heat the
the stock stock a little until it is is tepid, tepid, skimming skimming off a off
aIl all the the fat: fat: this this is is imimto the the boil, whisking all
portant. Bring to all the Lower the the time. time. Lower the heat and and simmer
gently for for 35 minutes. heat Rinse a napkin in water, wring out out thoroughly,
thoroughly, and and strain strain aspic through through the napkin. the aspic jelly
can Aspic jelly can be be fiavoured flavoured with with various various dessert
dessert wines: port, sherry, Frontignan, port, Frontignan, sherry, Marsala,
Marsala, Madeira, Madeira, Malvasia (Malvoisie). These wines, wines, which which
are are only added added to to the jelly when it is used in the proportion of is
tepid, are used per litre of 1 I dl. dl. per litre (3 tablespoons per pint) of (3
of jelly in the the case of dessert dessert wines, and 2 dl. in the case of
Champagne, Sauternes, Alsatian, or or other white wines. Instructions Instructions
for making various aspic jellies will be found found Meat jellies. jellies. under
JELLIES, Meat Aspics in moulds mouldsAspics set in plain moulds, charlotte- Aspics
are set moulds or moulds with a ho le in type moulds hole in the middle. Coat the
mould with a a thin layer of as indicated in of jelly, as in pressing into the
recipes. Decorate by pressing into the jelly small pieces truffie, cooked lean harn
of trufre, ham or tongue, and white of hardand white egg for meat, meat, chicken
game aspics. boiled egg chicken or or game aspics. For fish fish or aspics use use
pieces pieces of trufre, truffie, white shellfish aspics white of of hard-boiled
hard-boiled coral of shellfish or slivers of smoked salmon. egg, the coral

st

Aspic crofitons. Aspic croOtons. CROÛTONS cRo0roNs DE DE GELÉE cnrfs -- Aspics

Aspics cut into cut into jelly must shapes -- triangles. shapes triangles,
rectangles, rectangles, crescents, crescents, etc. etc. The The jelly must be clear
clear and and solid. solid. be When a a number number of When of croûtons crotitons
have pour the have to to be be made, made, pour the jelly into into a jelly a large
large baking baking dish dish to quite firm, to set. set. When When it it is is
quite firm, turn turn out out onto onto a a damp damp cloth cloth which which has
has been been stretched stretched and and fastened to fastened a table. to a table.
Cut with aa knife Cut up up with knife if if the the croûtons cro0tons are are
rectilinear in pastry-cutter rectilinear tter if in shape, shape, or with a or with
a pastry-cu if they they are round. are round. The technical The technical term
gelie means crotttonner de term croûtonner de gelée means to to surround surround
sorne jelly cut some cold cold food food with with croûtons cro0tons of ofjelly cut
into into shapes. shapes. Aspic Aspic of freshwater crayfish of freshwater crayfish
tails. Asprc DE DE QUEUES tails. ASPIC euEUEs p'fcnnvrssns -- Cook D'ÉCREVISSES
(see Cook the crayfish à d la la mirepoix mirepoix (see the crayfish MIREPOIX).
MIREPOIX). Shell Shell the the tails plain tails and and arrange airange them them
in in aa plain round round mould mould which which has has been coated withjelly.
been coated with jelly. Fill Fill the the mould mould either YFISH) or (see CRA
either with with a a Crayfish Crayfi,sh mousse mousse (see CRAYFISH) or a aRussian
Russian (see SALAD). salad salad (see SALAD). Chili ice. Chill on on ice. porssoNs
- This Aspic Aspic of of fish. fish. ASPIC esprc DE DE POISSONS can be be made with
made with - This can fish fish of various kinds, of various kinds, cut cut in in
fillets, fillets, slices slices or medallions. Fill or medallions. Fill the the
middle middle of of the the aspic aspic dish dish with with a a fish fish mousse
mousse appropriate appropriate to particular recipe; to the the particular with
Russian recipe; with Russian salad; salad; or or with with any any mixture mixture
normally normally used used for for cold cold dishes. dishes. Aspic gras J. Aspic
of foie gras plain of foie I. ASPIC mplc DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAs -- Coat Coat a a
plain jelly and mould mould with with jelly gras, and fill fill it it with with
uniform uniform slices slices of of foie foie gras, garnished garnished with with
large large slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Fill Fill the the mould mould
with with jelly. Leave half-set jelly. Leave on plate or on ice ice to to set. set.
Serve Serve on a plate on a or in in aa glass glass dish. dish. Aspic gras II.
Aspic of of foie foie gras II. ASPIC lsplc DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAS -- Coat Coat a
a mould mould jelly (or jelly fiavoured with port-fiavoured port-flavoured jelly
(or jelly flavoured with with any any other other heavy wine). Fill heavy wine).
Fill with with truBles truffes cut cut into into neat neat round round slices,
slices, round pieces of pickled tongue, round pieces of ham ham or or pickled
tongue, and, and, if if desired, desired, the the whites whites of of hard-boiled
eggs eggs cut cut in in rings. rings. Fill the mould withjeIly. with jelly. Chill
on ice ice or or in in the Chill on the refrigerator. refrigerator. To To serve,
serve, turn turn the aspic onto the aspic onto a flat dish, a fiat dish, or or onto
onto slices slices of of buttered bread. If served bread. If served on a dish, on a
dish, decorate decorate with with chopped chopped jelly,and jelly triangles.
jelly.and triangles. This This aspic aspic can can also also be be made made by
filling the mould with by filling the mould with foie gras slices gras cut slices
of of/oie cut out out with a a shell-shaped shell-shaped scoop. scoop.

Lobster in in aspic (Battendier. (Battendier. Phot. Phol. Larousse) Larousse)

Lobster

Sole (Battendier. Phot. in aspic Sole in aspic (Battendier. Phot. Larousse)

Larousse)

56 56
Beef pot-ou-feu (Lasserre. Phot. Nicolas) Beef po t-au-feu (Lasserr e. P ho t. N
ico las)
'lnr.
ASPIC

Chicken in aspic (Roberr Carrier)

57 57
Roast garnished witb beans and strips of red pepper, Roastsirloin garnished
sirloinof beef withFrench French ofbeef beans and strips of red pepper, carrot aod
potato baskets (Phol. .\Iicolas) sticks and potato baskets (Pfrot. N it'olas\
carrotsticks
ASSIETTE
Aspic of frogs' legs I à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. Asprc ASPIC DE DE GRENouTLLES
GRENOUILLES A À t'lNcreNue L'ANCIENNE - Poach trimmed frogs' legs legs in white
wine flavoured thyme and a bay flavoured with a sprig sprig of ofthyme bay leaf.
Leave Leave to cool in in the the liquor. Iiquor. Drain, Drain, dry, and and coat
half half of of them them completely completely with a white white Chaud-froid
Chaud-froid sauce based based on meatless meatless stock, stock, and and the other
other half half with with a Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce coloured coloured with
crayfish butter (see (see SAUCE, Compound Compound sauces). sauces). Lay Lay the
frogs' frogs' legs on a wire tray, one by one, and leave them them to get quite
cold. Decorate with truffies truffles cut in thin slices. slices. Coat Coat with
aspic aspic jelly. jelly. Arrange Arrange the the frogs' frogs' legs legs round
round the sides of of a mould which has has been been coated coated with jelly,
jelly, alternating them with with peeled crayfish crayfish tails. tails. Fill the
middle middle of of the the mould mould with a Parisian salad (see (see SALAD),
dressed dressed with mayonnaise mayonnaise which which has has been been thickened
thickened with gelatine. gelatine. Pour Pour a thin layer layer of aspic aspic
jelly on ice. jelly over over the the whole, whole, and and chill chillon To To
serye, serve, turn turn out onto onto a dish dish and and decorate decorate with a
border border of of jelly jelly cro0tons croûtons (q.v.). (q.v.).

of cold co Id meats meats (Laroussel (Larousse) Plate of

Assiettes volantes - This This term term describes describes a a selection of

several items items of food food on one one plate, in the the manner manner of an
several hors-d'œuvre, particularly particularly various kinds of salty salty foods
foods cut hors-d'euvre, thin slices. slices. in thin the beginning beginning of the
the nineteenth Assiettes garnies - At the century, this this term term also also
applied to ta a dish. century, Carême says: 'Lunch consisted of six assleltes
assiettes on which Car€me cutlets, fish, chicken, chic ken, game, game, a side-dish
of of vegetables, vegetables, veal cutlets, and soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs were
were served.' served.' and (about 25 miles) from ASTI - Italian Italian town town
situated 40 km. (about ASTI Turin. It It is is the the ancient ancient Asta Asta
Colonia or Asta Asta Pompeia Pompeia of of the Turin. Romans, and is is famous
famous for its sparkling wine, made from Romans, Moscato grapes, grapes, called
called Asti Asti Spumante Spumante (see WINE). WINE). Moscato ASTRAGAL (Milk
vetch). ASTRAGALE ASTRAGALE - Many varieties of ASTRAGAL astragal grow in Asia; it
is also also found found in the the temperate astragal regions of of the the
Lebanon. Lebanon. One One variety variety of of milk milk vetch vetch produces
regions gum tragacanth, tragacanth, which which is is used used in confectionery
confectionery and pastrypastrygum making. making.

Little Little chicken chicken aspics aspics

Aspic of of poultry poultry and and feathered feathered grme. game. Asplc ASPIC DE
DE voLAILLEs VOLAlLLES Aspic Coat slices slices of of chicken chicken or or game
game with with white white or or brown brown ChaudChaudCoat froid sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and put put them them in in a a mould mould which which
froid jelly. Fill has been been coated coated with with aspic aspicjelly. Fill the
the mould mould with with either either a a has chicken or or game game mousse,
mousse, or or with with some sorne other other mixture mixture used used chicken

for for cold cold dishes. dishes.

of shrimps shrimps or or other other shellfish. shellfish. Asprc ASPIC DE DE

cREvETTEs CREVEITES Aspic of Aspic Coat an an aspic aspic mould mould with with
clear clear fish fish jelly. jelly. Decorate Decorate the the sides sides Coat with
with peeled peeled shrimp shrimp tails tails and and small small pieces pieces of
of truffie. truffle. Fill Fill the the of the the mould mould with with a a cold
cold shrimp shrimp mousse mousse mixed mixed with with middle of middle shrimp
tails tails and and truffies truffles cut cut into into large large dice. dice.
Fill Fill the the mould mould shrimp with jelly, jelly, and and leave leave on on
ice ice to to set. set. with be prepared prepared in in the the same same way, way,
using using Crayfish aspics aspics can can be Crayfish trimmed crayfish crayfish
tails tails and and crayfish crayfish mousse. mousse. Spiny Spiny lobster lobster
or or trimmed lobster aspics aspics are are made made by by Using using slices
slices of of one one or or other other of of lobster these shellfish, shellfish,
together together with with the the appropriate appropriate mousse. mousse. these
ASSIETIE - See See PLATE. PLA TE. ASSIETTE of cold cold meats meats arranged
arranged on on Assiette anglaise anglaise - Assortment Assortment of Assiette a
plate plate or or a a dish. dish. a The assortment assortment usually usually
consists consists of of York York ham, ham, salt salt beef, beef, The tongue, rib
rib of of beef beef or or roast roast beef. beef. Mortadella, Mortadella,
galantine, galantine, tongue, etc., are are sometimes sometimes added added to to
it. it. etc., The meat meat is is garnished garni shed with with chopped chopped
jelly, jelly, cress cress and and The gherkins. The The assiette assiette anglaise
anglaise is is served served chiefly chiefly at at lunch. lunch. gherkins. The term
term assiettes assiettesassorties assorties describes describes various various
preparations preparations The served as as hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, thotgh
though hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre ate are usually usually served served nowadays
nowadays in in special special hors-teuvre hors-d'œuvre dishes. dishes. served

Astragal Astragal a. Astragalus AstragaJus of of Crete Crete b. b. Liquorice

Liquorice vetch vetch c. c. Fruit Fruit a.

58 58
ATTELET AITELET
Another Another variety variety produces produces fruit fruit in the form of of
pods, pods, which, which, the seeds seeds contained contained in in them them are
are formed, formed, resemble resemble before the before wonns. worms. In In the the
past past these pods pods used to be added to salads (to (to mystify mystify the
guests guests !). !). Astragalus Astragalus pods pods are are also also pickled in
vinegar, like like capers. vinegar, seeds of There is yet another variety of
astragalus, the the seeds which, when ripe, are used in cookery. cookery. which,
vegetable ASTRINGENT - Binding, Binding, contracting. contracting. The The
vegetable ASTRINGENT were cooked great number of dishes were cooked a great In In
the past, when wh en a burning fue was actually burning in the fireplace, the
thepart part where the fire (hearth). It stews hearth that It was in in the hearth
that stews dtre (hearth). was called the âtre preparations which slowly long time
were were slowly a long which take a and other preparations

of walnut cutch, bark bark of of oak, oak, quinquina, quinquina, leaves leaves of
walnut tree, cutch,
bramble, lemon lemon juice, quinces, quinces, etc. arbutus tree and bramble,

owe their their properties to tannin. Among Among them are astringents owe

ASTRODERME - Sea fish of of an an unusual unusual appearance, appearance,

ASTRODERME Sea fish round spots, yellowish pink on on the back back and sides with
black round yellowish Young astrosilvery spots spots on on the the belly. belly.
Young alternating with silvery This bellies. This dermes have have purplish-blue
bodies bodies and and silvery silvery bellies. dermes is well known fei" d'America
d'America by Nice fishermen, fishermen, is weil known fish, called fel of France
along the the whole whole of the the Mediterranean Mediterranean coast coast of
along (Côte d'Azur). (C6te bouillabaise. It is chiefly used as an ingredient
ingredient for ..' for bouillabaise

cooked, surrounded by hot coals. gas, in ovens heated by gas, All these dishes are
today cooked in Ali protest gastronomes protest a few few gastronomes oil. Quite
coal or or oil. electricity, coal electricity, Quite a maintaining that that dishes
cooking, maintaining of cooking, against these methods of against prepared in this
way as as when cooked by by cannot taste so good prepared cannot the old methods.
When nothing in the claim. When Experience shows that there is nothirig Experience
(and kitchen utensils have today today used (and well-made utensils are used weIl-
made perfection), food cooked point of food can can be be cooked high point of
perfection), a high reached a reached product and whatever whatever the the method.
successfully, whatever whatever the product successfully,

plant of family as as of the the same same family Herbaceous plant ATRIPLEX
ATRIPLEX - Herbaceous genus Chenopodium. goosefoot genus Chenopodh*n. and the the
goosefoot spinach and spinach garden orach; it is is as garden orach; it known as
is commonly commonly known The atriplex atriplex is The prepared like like It is
grown aIl is prepared France. It all over over France. and grown cultivated and
cultivated spinach. (See ORACH.) spinach.

reign ofMarcus ive in the reign still al alive Aurelius. He was still of Marcus
Aurelius. in the reign year A.D. of Alexander Alexander Severus, about the year
228. xo.228. Only one of his entitled Deipnosohas survived, entitled works has his
works phistai or Specialists a gem of erudition, is a phistai in Dining, which is
Specialists in giving much much information would history which we would giving
information on ancient history otherwise lack. In Specialists relating ln
Specialists in Dining, there are several passages relating to both practical uses,
both various uses, and their their various fruit and and fruit to flowers and and
pleasurable. and pleasurable. ATHÉNIENNE (À (A V) dishes various dishes L')
applying to to various ATIffiMENNE - Name applying which are and onion, and fried
onion, lightly fried flavoured with with lightly are usually usually flavoured
garnished garnished with aubergines, sweet pimentos. and sweet aubergines, tomatoes
and

ATHENA EUS - Greek writer, born in Naucratis, Naucratis, in Egypt, ATHENAEUS

(Collection of Phot. Larousse) Iarousse) Antique of Dr Dr GOllschalk. Gottschalk.

Phal. Antique attelets attelets(Collecrion

Athérine

ATHÉRINE body, fish, with with a a long, long, spindle-shaped spindle-shaped body,
ATfffiRINE -- Little Little fish, covered posterior end. The sides sides end. The
with rounded rounded scales scales at at the the posterior covered with have the
head is flattened on on the the top, top, the have a a silvery silvery stripe,
stripe, the the head is flattened upper th are jaw is are very very lower, and and
the the tee teeth is shorter shorter than than the the lower, upper jaw smal!.
small. Two coasts of of France, France, fish are Two species species of are known
known on on the the coasts of this this fish where prêtre and faux éperlan. where
they are called calledprdtre andfaux iperlan. they are Common English are
silversideand and sand-smelt, sand-smelt, names in in English are silverside Common
narnes and species are are fishermen take enormous catches. catches. Other Other
species and the the fishermen take enormous found coast lakes. lakes. found in in
the and Mediterranean Mediterranean coast the estuaries estuaries and In fish. Its
Its fiesh flesh is is In the smelts correspond correspond to to this this fish. the
U.S.A., U.S.A., smelts delicate delicate in in flavour. flavour. Athérines are
usuaIly in deep deep fat, fat, fried in Athirines are usually fried but for small
small bass can be be applied applied to to this this recipes suitable suitable for
bass can all recipes but ail fish. fish. ÂTRE (Hearth stone) today, This word word
is is no no longer longer used used today, Afnn (Hearth stone) -- This except
pastrypart of the baker's baker's or or pastryexcept to to describe describe the
the central central part of the cook's oyen. cook's oven. 59 59

hasta, meanmeanATTELET Latin hasta, from the the Latin This word word cornes comes
from ATTELET -- This isoften often past was ing It is spelt hatelet. hatelet.It was
spelt in the the past and in staff or rod, and ing staff or rod, which used, metal
skewers skewers on on which little metal describe !ittle incorrectly, to to
describe used, incorrectly, various sweetbreads, lambs'sweetbreads, pieces of
kidneys, lambs; meat, sheeps' sheeps' kidneys, of meat, various pieces larks, are
threaded. threaded. larks, etc., etc., are To shape of ofaa in the the shape a
little little utensil utensil in precise, an attelet is is a an allelet To be be
precise, with mental top. pin These, with top. These, pin or with an an orna
ornamental skewer, but but with or skewer, truffles, food items of of food other
items and other crayfish and cocks' combs, combs, crayfish truffies, cocks'
threaded hot or or cold cold for decorating decorating hot solely for are used
usedsolely on them, them, are threaded on dishes grand style. style. in the the
grand dishes served served in For grand entrées, advocated the the entries, Carême
Car0me advocated For arranging arranging these thesegrand use cookery In modern
modern cookery great number attelets. In number of of allelets. use of of aa great
practice practically abandoned. abandoned. practice this has been been practically
decoration has this decoration Modern decoration useof of any anydecoration as
aarule, rule, the the use disdain, as Modern cooks cooks disdain, which edible.
which is is not not actually actually edible. It Car6me's decorating Carême's
probable that attelets decorating the allelets It is that the is probable entrées
andthe effects theeffects in fact, fact, edible were,in edibleand removes were,
entriesand and removes obtained beautiful. certainly beautifu!' obtained were were
certainly
ATTENDU ATTENDU
ATTENDU -- French French culinary culinaryterm term applied applied to toaadish
dish or or ATTENDU beverage the the consumption consumption of of which which is is
intentionally intentionally postpostbeverage poned in in order pheasant should
order to to improve improve it. it. Thus Thusaa pheasant shouldbe be poned attendu,
that that is, is, kept kept hung, hung, before before being being cooked cooked and
andeaten. eaten. attendu,
(Skewer) -- In ATTEREAU (Skewer) In his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire de decuisine
cuisine et et ATTEREAU (Paris 1836), d iconomie (Paris 1836), Burnet, Burnet, one-
time one-time steward steward of of the the d'économie royal household, gives the
household, gives following definition the following definition of of attereau:
attereau: royal 'Name which which keepers keepers of of eating-houses eating-houses
attribute attribute to kind to aa kind 'Name of ragoût ragofit made made of of
fiUet fillet of of veal, veal, cut cut in in very very thin thin slices. slices.
They They of are studded studded with with lardoons lardoons and pie dish and
cooked cooked in in aa pie dish with with aa are poured over little stock stock
poured over them.' them.' little Car€me, however, however, in in his published
before his works works published before Burnet's Burnet's Carême, dictionary,
describes describes a a method method of preparation of of preparation of attereaux
attereaux dictionary, which indicates indicates that that this this dish dish is is
in in no no way way aa ragoût. ragofrt. In ln which modern cookery, cookery,
attereau attereau describes describes both both the the metal metal skewer skewer
modern on which which various various ingredients ingredients are are threaded,
threaded, and and the the dish dish on itself. This This is is usualJy usually
served served as as an an hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, but but can can also also
itself. be served served as as a a small small entrée entrde if if supplemented
supplemented by garnish. by a a garnish. be Attereaux differ differ from from
brochettes brochettes in in being being dipped dipped in in aa Attereaux give them
sauce to to give them a a finn firm coating, coating, rolled rolled in in
breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sauce and usually deep-fried. deep-fried. and The
ingredients ingredients which which make make up up the the attereaux attereaux can
can be be The cooked on on wooden wooden skewers, skewers, and and then then
transferred transferred to to sil silver ver attelets. The The attereaux attereaux
can can also also be be served served without without the attelets. the on which
they they were cooked. cooked. skewers on sweet courses can prepared en can be be
prepared m atlereau, attereau, the Sweet the method method being the given for same
as the same as that given for savoury savoury atlereaux. attereaux. being Attereaux
à i la la chalonaise chalonaise Thread the-attereaux the-attereaux with Attereaux
with - Thread combs and and kidneys cooked cooked in in a a white white court-
bouillon cocks' combs court-bouillon (q.v.), and and drained. Add mushrooms and and
trufHes. (q.v.), truffies. Dip the the atlereaux attereaux in (see SAUCE). in
Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see Dip SAUCE). Roll Roll them in breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and fry in smoking smoking hot deep them deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain,
season with with fine fine sait, salt, and and arrange arrange on paper season on a
a napkin napkin or or paper garnished with fried fried parsley. doyley, garnished
Atterearx à la duchesse (dessert) i la Attereaux Prepare a a mixture mixture of of
- Prepare (see CUSTARD, crdme frite CUSTARD, Fried Fried custard) crème frite (see
custard) to to which which have have been added added 2 crushed macaroons and and 1
I tablespoon tablespoon crystalcrystallised lised fruit, cut in very small dice and
and steeped steeped in in rum. rum. When firm, thread firm, thread slices of this
this mixture on on the the atlereau. attereau. Roll Roll in in very fine
breadcrumbs and deep-fry in in smoking hot hot fat. fat. Attereaux I l'6cossaise
l'écossaise up the Attereaux à the attereaux attereaux using using - Make up pieces
(see OFF Pick led ox AL or ARIETY pieces of Pickled ox tongue tongue (see OFFAL or
V VARIETY MEATS), mushrooms, and MEATS), and rather rather thick thick slices
slices of trufHes. truffies. Finish recipe for Finish as described described in the
recipe Attereaux à for Attereaux d la chalonaise. Attereaux Attereaux i àh la
maralchlre maraîchère Use pieces of turnip-rooted - Use celery celery (celeriac)
(celeriac) previously previously simmered simmered in butter; mushrooms, and cooked
ham ham for for the and pieces pieces of cooked the attereaux. attereazx. Finish
Finish as as Attereaux à described in the recipe for Attereaux described d la Ia
chalonaise. Attereaux i à la nigoise niçoise - Make Attereaux Make up the attereaux
with large stoned olives olives stuffed stuffed with a a pur6e purée of stoned of
anchovies, anchovies, mushrooms, of pickled tunny. Dip them in in Villeroi pieces
of and pieces (see Villeroi sauce sauce (see of concentrated tomato purée, SA UCE),
with a tablespoon of SAUCE), tomato pur6e, add chopped tarragon. tarragon. Finish
Finish as as described and add described in the the recipe Atlereaux d à la
chalonaise. chalonaise. for Attereaux Attereaux i à la normande normande - Make
Make up up the the attereaux by Attereaux attereaux by plump mussels mussels cooked
d à la marinidre, marinière, drained, threading on plump threading drained, and
stuffed stuffed with with finely finely pounded fish forcemeat. Add mushand cut in
in round round slices. Finish Finish as as described described in the the recipe
recipe rooms cut rooms for Attereaux Atlereaux d à la chalonaise. chalonaise. for
Attereaux ià la la pi6montaise piémontaise - Make up the the attereaux with
Attereaux with of polenta polenta (q.v.) (g.v.) cooked cooked in in butter, butter,
and thick thick slices slices of of slices of slices truffies. Dip Dip them them in
in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry deep-fry truffies. in
sizzling sizzling fat. fa t. in Attereaux ià la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert - Make
up up the the attereaux attereaux by by Attereaux of pheasant, pheasant, grouse,
grouse, or or any any other other winged winged thread ing on on slices slices of
threading Add sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms and and pieces pieces of of cooked
cooked lean lean game. Add game. Dip the the attereaux atlereaux rn in Villeroi
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to ham. Dip ham.

whichhas hasbeen beenadded concentratedgame gamestock added concentrated

stockreduced reducedto which to (q.u.).Finish afumet (g.v.). Finish as asdescribed
described in inthe therecipe recipe forAttereaux afumet for Attereaux Iachalonaise.
chalonaise. àdla pannesan(Parma (Parma style) Attereaur au auparmesan style)- -
Cook Attereaux Cooksemolina semolina (q.v.)in inbutter, butter,and andwhen
firm,thread whenfinn, threadslices the attereaux. (q.v.) sliceson on the attereaux.
Addslices slicesof ofGruyère Gruydre cheese. cheese. Add Dip the theattereaux
attereauxin inegg eggand andbreadcrumbs Dip breadcrumbsand anddeep-fry. deep-fry.
Attereauxof ofcalves' calves'sweetbreads sweetbreads ViUeroi. Attereaux
Villeroi.ATTEREAUX ATTEREAux DE DE RIsDE DEVEAU vEAU VILLEROI vrLLERor - - Braise
Braise uniform piecesof RIS uniform pieces ofcalves' calves' sweetbreads in inaa
white (q.v.)and white court-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.) sweetbreads andthread
thread them on onthe theattereaux. attereaux. Finish Finishas them asdescribed
described in inthe therecipe recipefor for Attereaux àdla chalonaise. lachalonaise.
Atlereaux Attereaux of ofchicken chickenlivers livers ài la Attereaux lamirepoix.
mirepoix.ATTEREAUX ATTEREAUX DE DE ForESDE DEVOLAILLE VoLATLLE À FOIES ALA u
MIREPOIX unBpox - - Fry Frychicken chickenlivers liversin in butter, drain drain
and butter, and cool. cool. Thread Thread them themon onthe theatlereaux,
attereaux. piecesof with pieces together with together of lean leancooked cooked
ham, ham,and andsliced slicedmushmushrooms. Coat rooms. Coat the the atlereaux
(q.v.)of attereaux with with aafondue root ofroot fondue (g.v.) pieces, roll
vegetables vegetables cut cut into into very verysmall small pieces, roll in in
breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and finish finish as as described described in in the
therecipe recipefor for Atlereaux Attereaux àdla la chalonaise. chalonaise.
Attereaux TTEREA UX DE Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' brains brains Villeroi.
Villeroi. AATTEREAUX DE CERVELLE cERvELLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU VILLEROI VILLERoI - -
Cut Cut up uplambs' lambs' brains brainsand and cook cook them in aa white
(q.v.).Cool them in white court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.). anddrain, Cooland
drain, and pepper, oil, and season season with with salt, salt, pepper, oil, aa few
few drops drops of lemon of lemon juice, and juice, and a a liule little chopped
parsley. Thread chopped parsley. Thread on onthe the atlereaux, attereaux, and and
finish finish as as described in the described in the recipe recipe for for
Allereaux Attereaux àdla la chalonaise. chalonaise. Atlereaux Attereaux of of
calves' prepared in calves' brains brains are are prepared in the thesame same
manner. manner.

Attereaux Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads Villeroi Villeroi

Attereaux Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads ViUeroi. Villeroi.

ATTEREAUX ATTEREAUx DE DE Braise Braise lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads in in
a a white (q.v.) and white court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.) and thread thread
them them on on the the atlereaux. attereaux. Finish Finish off as described off as
described in in the the recipe recipe for for Atlereaux Attereaux à d la la
chalonaise. chalonaise. Attereaux à la Villeroi can, in addition to the basic
Attereaux d Ia Villeroi can. in addition to the basic element, also element, also
contain contain mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in in white mushwhite mushroom
court-bouillon and room court-bouillon and cut cut in in slices. slices. Attereaux
of of ox palate. ATTEREAUX pALArs DE Attereaux ATTEREAT.Tx DE ox palate. DE PALAIS
DE BOEUF BoEUF -Cut the the ox palate (cooked AL or (cooked as Cut ox palate as
described described under under OFF OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Ox palate), into
VARIETY Ox palate\, into round round slices. Put them slices. Put them on attereaux
allereaux with with alternate on alternate rows rows of of fried fried mushroom
mushroom heads heads
RIS RIs D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU VILLEROI vTLLERoI -

60 60
AUBERGINE AUBERGINE
and slivers slivers of oftruffies. truffies. Coat Coat in in Villeroi Villeroi
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and allow a\low to to cool. cool. Dip Dip
thern them in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and and rollinto
intocylindrical cylindrical shape. shape. roll andarrange arrangeon onaanapkin
napkingarnished garnished Deep-fryin insizzling sizzlingfat fatand Deep-fry
withfried fried parsley. parsley.Serve Servewith withPirigueux Périgueuxsauce
sauce(see (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). with Attereaux of of oysters oysters
Monselet.Monselet. ATTEREAUx ATTEREAUX o'suitnns D'HUÎTRES Attereaux MoNsELET
MONSELET - Poach Poach and and drain drain oysters. oysters. Thread Thread them
them on on attereaux, together together with with cooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms
cut cut in in slices, slices, attereaux, and thick thick slices slices of
oftrufles. truffies. Finish Finish as as described described in in the the recipe
recipe and for Attereaux Attereaux of ofbrains, brains, using using Villeroi
Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) for based on on fish fish stock stock
boiled boiled down down to to afumet afumet (q.v.). (q.v.). based of pineapple
pineapple (dessert). (ilessert). ATTEREAUx ATTEREAUX D'ANANAS D'ANANAS Attereaux of
Attereaux Thread pieces pieces of of pineapple pineapple on on the the attereaux.
attereaux. Dip Dip them them in in a a Thread crème frite frite (see (see CUSTARD,
CUST ARD, Fried Fried custurA custard) and and breadbreadcrime crumbs. Fry Fry in
in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat, fat, drain, drain, and and sprinkle
sprinkle crumbs. with fine fine sugar. sugar. with Apricot sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE) SAUCE) laced laced with with kirsch. kirsch. Serve with with Apricot Serve
Attereaux of of salnon salmon - See See SALMON. SALMON. Attereaux Attereaux
Pompadour Pompadour (dessert) (dessert) - Make Make up up the the attereaux
attereaux Attereaux by threading threading on slices of of stale stale brioches,
brioches, alternating altemating with with by cooked in in syrup syrup and halved
apricots which which have have been been cooked halved drained. Dip them them in a
crime crème frite (see (see CUSTARD, CUST ARD, Fried drained. custard) flavoured
flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Roll in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and fry custar{
hot fat. Drain, and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar. smoking hot in smoking of plum
slices of Thread slices Attereaux Victoria Victoria (dessert) (dessert) - Thread
Attereaux of slices of them with slices pudding on the attereaux, alternating them
cooking apples which which have been steeped in rum. rum. Dip in egg cooking and
Drain, and fat. Drain, and breadcrumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. in smoking and
fry and dredge with fine sugar. dredge
dipartemenl, where Ard'dche département, AUBENAS - Small town in the Ardèche the
not rival rival the may not truffies they may These, though though they found.
These, are found. truffies are flavour of Périgord excellent. P6rigord truffies,
are nevertheless excellent. preserves which which are are Marrons glacis are much-
prized preserves are much-prized Marrons glacés made at Aubenas. Aubenas. a plant
originatAUBERGIhIE AUBERGINE or or EGGPLANT EGGPLANT - Fruit Fruit of of a plant
originatthe names of ing in France France under under the names of ing in in India,
India, known known also also in France since *ilorgrna melongena and and morelle.
morelle. It Ithas has been been cultivated cultivated in in France since In the
U.S.A' it is century. seventeenth the of beginning the the beginning of the
seventeenth century. In the U.S.A. it is called called eggplant. eggplant.· most
used in There There ire are many many varieties varieties of of this this plant.
plant. The The most used in vegetable and cookery long purple, purple, which which
is is used used as as a a vegetable and cookery is is the the long are: the Bar' as
as a a girnish. garnish. Among Among other other edible edible varieties varieties
are: the Bargiant New purple aubergine,the round aubergine;the bentaie bentane
aubergine; the round purple aubergine, the giant New York York aubergine,
aubergine, and and the the round round Valencia Valencia aubergine. aubergine. for
cootMethods Methods of ofpreparation. preparation. There There are are many many
recipes recipes for cookgreatly. ing and the the initial initial preparation
preparation varies varies greatly. ing aubergines, aubergines, and oven or in the
baked stewed, to be is vegetable When this When this vegetable is to be stewed,
baked in the oyen or make its fried, fried, it it must must be be steeped steeped
in in salt salt for for 30 30 minutes minutes to to make its excess excess water
water ooze ooze out. out. The The aubergines aubergines are are then then
thoroughly thoroughly dried and cooked cooked as as indicated indicated in in the
the recipes. recipes. dried and or in butter Various Various uses. uses.
Aubergines, Aubergines, cut cut in in dice dice and and fried fried in butter or
eggs (sur le oil, oil, can can be be used used as as a a garnish garrush for for
the the following: following: eggs (sur le omelette); in an an omelette); plat,
scrambled, poached, plat, scrambled, poached, fried, fried, or or cooked cooked in
noisettes; ot noisettes; cutlets or fish meunibre; meunière; lamb lamb or or mutton
mutton chops, chops, cutlets fish (see CHICKEN)' cocotte en or fried chicken
tournedosiand tournedos; and chicken fried or en cocotte (see CHICKEN). can
grilled, aubergines aubergines can fried or or grilled, lengthways, fried half
lengthways, Sliced in Sliced in half fish. fillets of of fish. poached eggs, or
fillets eggs' or of poached arrangement of in the be used be used in the
arrangement be grilled, they can be they can or grilled, fried or and fried slices
and in thick thick slices cut in Peeled. cut Peeled, tournedos noisettes,
escalopes, for a foundation as used used as a foundation for escalopes, noisettes,
tournedos pieces of meat. of meat. small pieces and other other small and Cut
aubergines. Cut 2 firm firm aubergines. Peel 2 h crème crbme i la Aubergines à -
Peel Aubergines steep in salt for (+ inch) and steep thick, and inch) thick, cm. Ct
slices t round slices in round them in ] cm. them in salt for pan or or saut6 pan
in a a sauté in butter butter in simmer in and simmer Dry, and minutes. Dry, 30
minutes. 30 pan. frying pan. heavy frying heavy sance (} pint, Cream sauce pint,3
cup) Cream ltdl' add I! Ulfore serving, serving, add fuit before Just dl. (i 1 cup)
auberthe auberdamage the not to to damage care not (see SAUCE). taking care Stir,
taking SAUCE). Stir, (see dish. a vegetable vegetable dish. in a gines. Arrange
Arrange in gines. Boil cream- Boil (+ pint, pint, It 1| cups) cups) cream. dl. (t 3
dl. with 3 pan juice with the panjuice Dilute the Dilute (2 oz', g. (2 50 g. add 50
and add heat, and the heat, from the remove from hali remove by half, down by down
oz., aubergines. pour over the aubergines. over the and pour Strain and fresh
butter. butter. Strain cup) fresh t* cup) aubergines the aubergines Cut the FRITEs
-- Cut AUBERcINEs FRITES aubergines. AUBERGINES friea aubergines. Fried pan plunge
into deep pan into aadeep and plunge flour, and with flour, dredge with slices,
dredge thin slices, in thin in onaa arrange on and arrange salt,and fine salt, with
fine season with Drain, season oil. Drain, sizzling oil. of sizzling of napkin.
napkin. into cutinto also be becut canalso deep-frying can for deep-frying intended
for Aubergines intended Aubergines fan-wise. pieces, or cut fan-wise. orcut square
pieces, thick square thick in lengthwise in aubergineslengthwise gratin -- Cut
theaubergines Cut the au gratin Aubergines au Aubergines dish, inaadish, leave in
and leave incisions and fewshallow shallow incisions Mike aa few half. Make half.
hotoil. oil. insizzling fryin sizzlinghot Dry, then thenfry with salt. salt.Dry,
thickly with sprinkling thickly sprinkling pulpwithout without outthe thepulp
scoopout carefully scoop spoon carefully andwith witha Drain,and Drain, a spoon an
addto pulp,and toititan andadd thepulp, Chop skin. Ch outsideskin. theoutside
damaging the damaging op the (q.v.)mixture andaatablespoon tablespoon mixtureand
duxelles(q.v.) quantity of ofduxelles equal quantity equal parsley. ofchopped
chopped parsley. of putthem them andput mixture,and withthis thismixture, skinswith
aubergineskins ile aubergine Fill the Fill finely withfinely Sprinklewith
dish.Sprinkle fireproofdish. oiledfireproof oroiled buttered or intoaabuttered into
or meltedbutter butteror addmelted toasted,add freshor ortoasted,
gratedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, fresh grated thetop. toP. brown the andbrown ofoil,
oil,and fewdrops dropsof aafew (see SAUCE) Demi'glace(see ofDemi-glace pipea
aborder borderof Cooked,pipe Whencooked, When SAUCE) aubergines. theaubergines.
around the around aubergines, Halveaubergines, gratinà i la lacatalane catalane- -
Halve augratin Auberginesau Aubergines egg hard-boiledegg with1Ihard-boiled
mixititwith it,and andmix pulp,ch chop thepulp, scoopout outthe scoop op it, o-nign
choppedonion ofchopped tablespoon Adda atablespoon finely.Add upfinely. choppedup
chopped of finely offinely tablespoonof inoil, oil,a atablespoon friedin
lightlyfried hasbeen beenIightly whiifihas which garlic. parsleyand andgarlic.
choppedparsley somechopped gratedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs,sorne grated above. as
cookingas Finishcooking Finish above. as Halve aubergines, gratinà il'italienne
I'italienne- -Halve au Aubergines aubergines, as Aubergines au gratin quantity of
pulp withan an equal chopped mixthe tfechopped andmix above, above, and pulp with
equal quantity of garlic. cookFinishcookparsley and chopped little and risotto
risotto and aa little chopped parsley and garlic. Finish ing as above. ing as
above. Method languedocienne- -Method gratinà i lala au Auberginesau Aubergines
gratin languedocienne asas meat' sausage withsausage halves aubergine theaubergine
fillingthe above,filling above, halves with meaL above. as cookingas Finish cooking
above. Finish

3. 3. Very large round purple Very early dwarf purple dwarfpurple purple4.4. Very
early round large Very

Varieties aubergines aubergines of Varietiesof 1. 1. Long Very early Barbentane

Barbentane Very early purple2.2. Longpurple

6l 61
AUBERGINE AUBERGINE

Aubergines Aubergines Imam Imam Baaldi Baaldi (Robert (Robert Carrier) Carrier)

62 62
AUK
Aubergines Aubergioes au au gratin gratin à la la portugaise portugaise - Method
Method as as above. above.

Fill Fi)) the the aubergine aubergine halves halves with with their their chopped
chopped pulp pulp to to which which

has an equal equal quantity quantity of of chopped chopped tomatoes tomatoes has
been been added added an lightly in butter, butter, chopped chopped onion, onion,
parsley parsley and and garlic. garlic . lightly fried fried in cooking as as
above. above. Finishcooking Finish Aubergines la reinereine - Method Melhod as as
above. ahove. Fill Fil) the the Auberginesau augratin gratiniàla aubergine an
aubergine halves halves with with their their chopped chopped pulp pulp mixed mixed
with with an equal equaJ quantity quantity of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of
of chicken crucken bound bound with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thick Velouti Velouté s&tce sauce (see (see SAUCE).
as above. above . SAUCE). Finish Finish cooking cooking as Aubergines ta
toulousainetoulousaine- Peel Peel the the aubergines, aubergines, Aubergines au au
gratin gratin iIII la cut ina a dish dish cut into into thick truck slices, slices,
across across or or lengthways, lengthways, and and leave leave in sprinkled pan of
of hot hot oil. oil. sprinkled with with salt. salt. Dry, Dry, and and toss toss in
in a a pan Arrange in layers layers in in a a fireproof fireproof dish dish in in
rows, rows, alternating alternating Arrange in with of tomatoes tomatoes cut eut in
in half half and and also also with an an equal equal quantity quantity of tossed
in in oil. oil. tossed Sprinkle SprinkJe generously generously with witb freshly
freshly grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed Pour on a a little littJe oil
oil mixed with wilh chopped chopped garlic garlic and and parsley. parsley. Pour in
the the oven. oyen . and brown brown in and This is sometimes somelimes called
called aubergines aubergines d ci la ia This dish dish is
Aubergines Aubergioes au gratin i li la la turque turque - Fill Fill aubergine au
bergine halves halves with their chopped pulp quantity of of pulp mixed mixed with
with an an equal quantity braised braised chopped mutton, mutton, and rice cooked
in in water (taking (taking

languedocienne. languedocienne.

in equal equal proportions). proportions). Add Add chopped garlic garlic and
parsley, of cayenne. cayenne. Brown the top. top . parsley, and a small pinch of
When tomalO sauce round round the When cooked, cooked, pipe pipc a a border horder
of tomato au bergines . aubergines. Aubergines Aubergines in in gravy. gravy.
AUBERGINEs AUBERGiNES AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed Proceed as as la crème, crime, brut
described in the (he recipe recipe given for Aubergines Aubergines d à la but
described substitute thickened stock.. substitute truckened veal stock Peel 2 large
latge grecque (hors-d'œuvre)Aubergines la grecque Peel 2 Aubergines à la
@ors.d'cuwe) cut them in dice or thick truck square pieces. pieces. Throw
aubergines; eut prepared as as a court-bouillon prepared a time, them, a a few at a
them, few at time, into into a grecque (see (see d la Ia grecque for Artichokes
recipe for in the the recipe described in described Artichokes à 12 to for 12 15 to
15 and cook for a full full boil, and ARTICHOKE). Bring to a serve as and serve a
terrine tenine with the liquor, and minutes.. Transfer into a minutes an hors-
d'œuvre. hors-d'auvre. an Peel the the auberaubercnnrfssAUBERGINEs GRILLÉES Grilled
aubergines. AUBERGINES GriJled - Peel a dish dish in a stand in gines, eut slices,
and and leave to stand cut them them ioto into thick slices, grill with oil, oil,
and and grill Dry them, salt. Dry them, brush with with salt. well sprink/ed
sprinkled wilh well gentle heat. heat. on a a genùe on a in a the aubergines
aubergines in arrange the a vegetable, vegetable, arrange serving as as a For
serving For tablespoons a few few tablcspoons with a and dab dab with dish, and
shape on a dish, on a crown shape crown (see BUTIER). BUTTER). butter (see d'hitel
buller Maitre d'hôtel of of MaÎ1re good (Turkish cookery) cookery) --'Take Baaldi
(Turkish Imam Baaldi Aubergines Imam 'Take good withlength withentire length their
entire them along along their slit them sound aubergines, aubergines, slil sound
pulp. Prepare a Prepare a of the the pulp. some of peeling, and out some scoop out
and scoop out peeling, out and onions and pulp, tomatoes, tomatoes, onions
aubergine pu/p, composed of of aubergine stuffing composed stuffing with aubergines
with fill the the aubergines and fill in oil, oil, and mixture in Fry trus this
mixture currants. Fry currants. pour in in sufficienl sufficient and pour dish and
an earthenwarc earthenware dish Put them them ioto into an it. Put il. bay and aa
bay little thyme thyme and Add aa liltle completely. Add cover them them
completely. oil oil to to coyer are aubergines are the aubergines low heat heat
until until the on low hours on for 33 hours leaf. Cook Cook for leaf. quite soft.
cool. Leave to to cool. soft. Leave quite prepare possible, If possi cold. veryco
served very beserved dish should be ish should Id . If ble, prepare 'This 'This d
be to be aubergines to theaubergines to allow allow the it is is required,
required, to it the day before before it it the day oil.' in the the oil.'
wellsaturated saturated in weil priest has fainted'. has fainted' 'the priest means
'the Turkish means in Turkish Baaldi in Imam Baaldi Imam . way prepared in in this
this way when aubergines aubergines prepared goes that legend goes that when The
legend The by somovcd (ptiest), he moved by hewas wasso imam (priest), certain imam
to aacertain were offered offered to were sheer from sheer hefainted fainted from
that he dish Ihat thedish of the fragrant odour odour of the rragrant the joy.
gastronomical joy. gaslronomical Peel (garnish). PURÉE runrnDD'AUBERGINBs pur6e
(garnish). Aubergine purée ' AUBERGINES - Peel Aubergine with dishwith inaadish
leave in and leave inslices slices, them in cutIhem aubergines, cul iheaubergines,
the , and little withaalittle casserolewith inaacovered covered casserole andcook
cook in Drythem, them,and salt.Dry sail. pur6e,add add Heat trus thispurée, sieve.
Heat Rubthrough throughaasieve. andsalt. salt.Rub butterand butter andserve. serve.
(3tablespoons) butter,and tablespoons) butter. 22tablespoons tablespoons(3
(seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce(see Bichamel sauce ofthick thickBéchamel Afew
fewlablespoons tablespoonsof A
these lhese ingredients ingredients

added to the the aubergines aubergines before before rubbing rubbing them them
through througb the the added to sieve sievewill willgive givethe Ihepur6e
puréeaamore more substantial substantial consistency, consistency, and and will
will make make it itwhiter. wruler . Peel the auberAubergine salad. sALADE SALADE
D'AUBERcINEs D'AUBERGINES -- Peel the auberAubergine salad. gines, 10 stand stand
in in a a dish dish with with gines, cut eut into into thin Ihin slices, slices,
and and leave leave to salt. il Ia la vinaigrette vinaigrelle (see (see SAUCE,
SAUCE, Cold Cold Sauces), Sauces), sail. Dry, Dry, season season d and and add add
chopped chopped chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. ,l/ote. NOle. This
Th.is salad salad can can also also be be prepared prepared with with aubergines
aubergines in salted which which have have been been cooked cooked in salted water,
water, drained drained and and dried. dried. sic.urEns - Peel Saut6ed AUBERGINES
SAUTÉES Peel the the Sautéed aubergines. aubergines. AUBERGINES (l]-inch) square
pieces. aubergines 4-cm . (I-t-inch) square pieces . aubergines and and cut eut
them them into into 4-cm. Leave a dish dish with with salt. salt. Dry, Dry, dredge
dredge with with flour, flour, Leave to to stand stand in in a and or other other
fat fat over over brisk brisk heat. heal. and saut6 sauté the the pieces pieces in
in oil, oil, butter butter or Serve Serve sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped
chopped parsley. parsley. sounrr6rs - Prepare Aubergire soufflés, AUBERcINES
AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES Prepare the the Aubergine souffies. aubergines in the the
recipe recipe fot for Aubergines Aubergines au au aubergines as as described
described in Add a pulp sieve. through scooped-out gratin. gratin. Rub Rub the the
scooped-out pulp through a sieve. Add an an (see equal of thick thick Bichamel
Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE) . equal quantity quantity of Bind and a a
Bind with with yolks yolks of or egg egg and and season season with with salt,
salt, pepper pepper and little in whites whites of of liule grated graled nutmeg.
nutmeg. At At the the last last moment moment fold fold in froth. a stiff egg egg
whisked whisked to to a stift' froth . Fill FiU the the aubergine aubergine skins
skins with with the the mixture, mixture, put pUI them (hem into into a a for 8
oven in a moderate cook and dish, fireproof to 10 10 fireproof dish, and cook in a
moderate oven for 8 to minutes. minutes. Serve Serve at at once. once. sourrrfns
Aubergire Aubergine soufr6s soufflés i à la la hongroise. hongroise. AUBERGnTs
AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES A À rl LA soNcnolsE HONGROISE - Proceed Proceed as as above,
above, adding adding 2 2 tablespoons lablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons)
chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightly fried fried in in butter, bUlter, and
and seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. souFFLEEs parmesarL AUBERGINEs au
souff6s Aubergine Aubergine soufflés au parmesan. AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES (3 tableAU
AU rARMESAN PARMESAN - As As above, above, adding adding 2 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 tablefilling. the to cheese grated Parmesan spoons) spoons) grated
Parmesan cheese to lhe fiJJing.

of of the the lowgr This département dipartement is AUDE AUDE - This is formed
formed of low,er part part of always been has good cookery where region a
Languedoc, Languedoc, a region where good cookery has always been (which wiJJ found
will be specialities (wh.ich the specialities Among the held in in respect.
respect. Among be found held cassoulet' well-known cassou is the the well-known
order) is alphabetical in their their al phabetical order) leI. in of Castelnaudary
Castelnaudary cassoulet of the cassolilet in Aude Aude kinds in are t two There are
- the There wo kinds the cassoulet cassoulet is the Another is Carcassonne. Another
of Carcassonne. cassoulet of and the the cassoulet and Toulouse. of Toulouse. of
introduced white beans, beans, introduced historians, white reliable historians, to
reliable According to According long Narbonensis long in Gallia Gallia Narbonensis
were cultivated cultivated in Arabs, were the Arahs, by the by The Arabs taught
America. from were brought before beans before beans were brought from America. The
Arabs taught with white white beans beans prepare a mutton ragoût ragofit with a
mutton to prepare the inhabitants inhabitants to the (See present-day cassoulet.
cassoulet. (See of the the present-day ancestor of which is is the the ancestor
wh.ich the which the dish, of which of trus this dish details of further details
for further CASSOULET for CASSOULET , of is understandably region Proud.) regioD is
understandably proud.) production of of lIins vins ordinaires and large production
has a a large Wines -- Aude Aude has Wines ordinaires and (See LANGUEDOC.)
d'origine. vins d'appellation d' appellation d vins 'origine. (See LANGUEDOC.)
de comtesse de la comtesse to la household to of the the housebold Head of AUDIGER
-- Head AUDIGER a of a author of is the the author Audiger i5 to Colbert. Colbert.
Audiger later to and later Soissons, and Soissons, The is The title is the
translate.d translated tille which the 1692 of of wh..ich published in in 1692 book
published book Noblea Nobleof GOllerning Governing a Art of and the the Art
Residence and Wett-brdered Residence WeJJ-Ordered Country and Country Town and
Gentlemen's Other Gentlemen House and and Other man's man 's House 's Town in
Domestics in and Domestics Staff and of Senior Senior Staff Duties of the DUlies
and the Residences, and Residences. lord's of aa lord's composition of the
composition he describes describes the In il it he General. ln General.
'household'. 'household'. pois petits pois across petits came across he came 1660,
he Italy in 1660, in Ital Travelling in Travelling y in preand prcwith them them
and crate with He filled filled aacraIe growing in January. in January growing . He
of sight of at the thesight marvelled at who marvelled court, who French court, it
to to the the French iented it sented pe tits pois became so was how That
vegetable. an early such such an early vegetable. That was how petits pois became
so to made ta is made effort is every effort today every even today whyeven and why
fashionable, and rash.ionable, aspossible. produce them asearly earlyas them as
Possible. produce The iiI/le little (wk auk family. Alcidae family ofthe the
Alcidae ALeuE - - Sea Seabirds birds of AUK. ALQUE . The AUX. grown. ILS Itswings
wingsare are (16jnches) fully groWfl. inches) when whenfully 38cm. cm.(/6 measures
38 measures from birdto toescape escapefrom the bird enables the whichcnables
flying, which forflying, equipped for equipped it. pursuitof hunting il.
fishermenhunting offishermen thepursuit the to isfrequently frequentlyto
regions,ititis Arctic regions, inArctic originatingin Although originating Although
63 63

-
AUNIS AND ANDSAINTONGE SAINTONGE AUNIS
be seen in autumn and winter on the coasts of England, be seen in autumn and winter
on the coasts of England, Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as
Spain, Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, P-ortugal, Italy
and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on Portugal, ltaly and Algeria. Not
infrequently it breeds on the French ocean coasts. The Icelanders call it alka
(aalga) the French oceancoasts. The Icelanders cali it alka (aalga) or klumba. The
flesh and fat of these birds are greatly vahied or klumba. The flesh and fat of
these birds are greatly valued by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where
they by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they nest. nest. of which
are areused usedfor fordistilling purposes (see distilling purposes (seeCOGNAC).
COGNAC). ofwhich Thevineyard vineyardproprietors proprietors of of this this region
regionmake make aaliqueur liqueur The winefor for themselves themselves and
andtheir their friends, friends, white white or orsometimes wine someiimes red,
locally locally ca calledpineau. Itis ismade pouring local made by bypouring local
brandy red, lied pineau. It brandy on the the must must du during fermentation,
which which is is thus thusarrested, arrested. on ring fermentation, preservingail
all the the fruit. fruit. preserving

vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. Animals vegetables and fruit
of the first quality are grown. AnimaIs raised for food produce meat of excellent
quality, including of excellent quality, including raised for food produce meat
some very good lamb; and from the neighbouring sea and and from the neighbouring
sea and sorne very good lamb; lakes of the region come fish and shellfish
acceptable to lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to
gastronomes. gastronomes. Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La
Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La Tremblade, and Chdteau
d'Ol6ron; they are white, or Tremblade, and Château d'Oléron; they are white, or
stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, stained with the fine
green weed from the fattening ponds, and are considered the best in the world. The
pirtuguese and are considered the best in the world. The Portuguese oysters which
are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. oysters which are bred here have a
specially delicate flavour. Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cl6ron and
Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cléron and La Rochelle, cockles
cockles which which are are found found in in the the Marennes Marennes La
Rochelle, fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally fattening ponds,
prawns (salicoques) which are locally called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are
called boucs. called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. La Rochelle,
after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the
greatest fishing port in France, and among fish found in the region aiJ hake,
France, and among fish found in the region are hake, coalfish (U.S. pollock), and
sole, which are sold immediatelv coalfish (U .S. pollock), and sole, which are sold
immedia tely after being caught. Fresh Fresh sardines, sardines, known known as as
Royan Rovan after being caught. sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are
also grey sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey mullet (called
meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch)-. In mullet (called meuils locally) and
brill (U.S. sea perch). In the Charente and Sdvre Niortaise and their tributaries
there and Sèvre Niortaise and their tributaries there the Charente are eels which
are delicious stewed or m matelote. are eels which are delicious stewed or en
matelote. Fruit and vegetables vegetables are particularly good. The garden Fruit
and are particularly good. The garden peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety
that is canned at peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at
Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon. Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon. Broad beans from
Marennes and the island of Oldron Broad beans from Marennes and the island of
Oléron are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red are considered
the best in the world. Kidney beans and red beans (mogettes') are excellent. beans
(mogettes) are excellent. and _ Orchard Orchard and vegetable vegetable garden
garden produce produce include include Saintonge Saintonge (nectarines); brugnons
brugnons (nectarines); the the apples apples of of Saint-porchaire Saint-Porchaire
(reinettes grrses and clochard)which are exported to England; (reinettes grises and
clochard) which are exported to England; white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as
cipes and oyster white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cèpes and oyster
mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du mushrooms; Saintonge oranges;
brunettes; pleurote du panicot. panicot. The game of this region is of excellent
quality. The finest The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest
butter, Which can compare with the best Normandy butter, butter, ~hich can compare
with the best Nonnandy butter, is made in Aunis. is made in Aunis. Culinary
Mouclade (mussels (mussels d à la la crdme); crème); Culinary specialities
specialities - Mouclade mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters
with mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with sausages; razor-
Jish sozp (solen); razor-fish stuffed with sausages; razor-fish soup (solen);
razor-fish stuffed with breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic
breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic and parsley and browned on
top; scallops auxfiies hirbes; and parsley and browned on top; scallops aux fines
herbes; ragofrt of lavagnons; small cattlefish fried in deep fat; deepragoût of
lavagnons; small cut tlefish fried in deep fat; deepcrameou (crabs fried fried
crameou (crabs that that have have shed shed their their shellsf; shells); hake
hake soip soup (made with the fish head); chaudrie (fish soup rather liki (made
with the fish head); chaudrée (fish soup rather Iike the Breton cotriade); roast
eel; fried eels du Mignon. the Breton co triade) ; roast eel; fried eels du Mignon.
Special meat and poultry dishes include chickmfricassde Special meat and poultry
dishes include chickenfricassée with with onions onions and and potatoes; potatoes;
Aunis Aunis civet, civet, which which is is made made of of pig's fry; a salmi of
sea birds; vanous charcuterie; rillettes pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; various
charcuterie; rillettes (potted pork); pktds and terrines; btack and white puddings.
(potted pork); pâtés and terrines; black and white puddings. Other Other special
special dishes dishes of of this this region region include include roast roast
garlic, garlic, cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds d Ia
cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds à la chardonnette; jonchie
(a kind of cream cheese made with chardonnette; jonchée (a kind of cream cheese
made with ewe's or goat's milk); vafious fouaces (scones) and coireaux ewe's or
goat's milk); variousfouaces (scones) and coireaux (made of maize flour); la fouie
(oil seed cake); gLteau (made of maize flour); la fouée (oil seed cake); gâteau
d'Assemblie; Easter gdteau; Taillebourg brioches ; grape d'Assemblée; Easter
gâteau; Taillebourg brioches; grape jelly; Pons jel/y; Ponsrusks; rusks;Frangipane
Frangipane tart. tart. Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most Wines
- Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most

AttNIS AND SAINTONGE -- The The region resion of of Aunis Aunis has has AUNIS AND
SAINTONGE fertile, well-cultivated lands, lands, where where crops itops of of
cereals, cereals, fertile, well-cultivated

AURILLAC -- Town Town in in the the Auvergne Auvergne region, region, which which
is AURILLAC the is the centre of production of of the theproduction of Cantal
Cantal cheese. cheese. centre AURIOL -- Name Name for for mackerel mackerel in
Marseille. in Marseille: AURIOL AUROCHS -- Wild Wildox, ox, ox plains. This ox of
of the the plains. This animal, animal, which which AUROCHS past used in the the
past used to to be be found found in in the the forests forests of of tempera
temperate te in Europe, is is now now only only found, found, and and in in very
very small small numbers, numbers, in in Europe, Lithuania, in in the the
Carpathians Carpathians and and in in the the Caucasus. Caucasus. Lithuania, The
meat meat of of aurochs aurochs is prepared as is prepared as ordinary ordinaiy
beef. beef. The (A AURORE L') Name principally to applied principally to a a sauce,
sauce, the AURORE (À L') -- Name applied the recipe for for which which is given in
is given in the the section section on on sauces; sauces; and and to to ail all
recipe the dishes dishes cooked cooked with with this this sauce. sauce. the This
name name is given to is also also given to a a dish dish of of stuffed stuffed
hard-boiled hard-boiled This (see EGGS, eggs (see EGGS, Aurora Aurora eggs). eggs).
eggs The name name also also applies applies to to a a cheese cheese made made in
in Normandy. Normandy. The AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIE eusrnaur -- Australian Australian
vineyards vineyards and AUSTRALIA. and wines wines (see WINE). WINE). (see AUSTRIA.
AUTRICHE AUTRTcHE -- Austrian Austrian wine (see wine and and cuisine cuisine (see
AUSTRIA. WINE, INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKER COOKERY). WINE, Y).

Papin Papin marmite marmite or or autoclave autoclave (Conservatoire (Conservatoire

des Arts et et Mdtiers. Métiers. Phot. Phot. des Arts J J Boyer) Boyer)

boiling boiling point. point. No No living living bacteria bacteria can can survive
survive the the temperature temperature of of 120"C. 120°C. (248'F.) of time. time.
(248°F.) in in a a liquid liquid medium medium over over a a certain certain period
period of Thus Thus the the autoclave autoclaveis is used used in inthe thecanning
canningindustry industryto to sterilise sterilise food food products products
contained contained in in hermetically hermetically sealed sealed cans. cans. (See
(See PRESERVATTON PRESER VA TI ON OF OF FOOD.) FOOD.) This This instrument
instrument was was invented invented by by Denis Denis Papin, Papin, and and the
the original original Papin Papin marmite marmite has has become become popular
popular once once again again in in the ofthe thepressure pressurecooker, cooker,
which, which, by bybringing bringingfood food to to the form form of a a
temperature temperature often often reaching reaching 140'C. 140°C. (284'F.),'makes
(284°F.), makes it it possible possibleto tocook cookin inaavery veryshort
shorttime timedishes disheswhich whichwould wouldtake take much much longer longer
cooked cooked by by the theordinary ordinarymethod. method. The Theresults,
results,though thoughacceptable acceptablein inaagood goodmany manycases,
cases,are, are, however, however, far far from from being being as as good good as
as those those obtained obtained by by the the traditional traditional methods.
methods. The The decomposition decomposition of ofcertain certain foods, foods,
64 64

AUTOCLAVE AUTOCLAVE (Pressure (Pressure cooker) cooker) - High-pressure High-

pressure steam steam vessel. vessel. A A sort sort of ofboiler, boiler, with with
very very strong strong walls, walls, which which can can be be closed c10sed
hermetically. hermetically. It It is is provided provided with with a a safety
safety valve, valve, and and is is capable capable of of raising raising the the
temperature temperature of of the the water water above above
AUVERGNE
meat meat in in particular, particular, is is taken taken much much further further
than than in ordinary ordinary cooking. cooking. Furthermore, Furthermore, vitamins
vitamins can can be be entirely entirely destroyed.

AUTO-INTOXICATION, AUTO-INTOXICATION, DIGESTM DIGESTIVE - This This form form of

intoxication, intoxication, due due to to healthy healthy foods foods ingested
ingested in in excessive excessive quantity quantity and and subjected subjected to
to bacterial bacterial putrefaction putrefaction in in the
intestines, not be be confused confused with with alimentary alimentary
intoxicaintestines, should shouJd not tion due to to ingestion ingestion of of
toxic toxic foods foods or or foods foods which which have have gone gone tion due
bad. bad.

AUTRICHIENNE AUTRICHIENNE (A (À L) V) - This This expression is is applied applied

to various various preparations preparations characterised, as in the case of those
those à la hongroise, hongroise, by being seasoned with paprika, or called d
Hungarian Hungarian pepper, pepper, and and sometimes sometimes by the addition
addition of of onion, onion, lightly fried, of of fennel fenne! or sour cream.
cream. lightly
porringer from Auvergne from old old Auvergne and porringer dredger, ewer ewer and
Pewter sugar sugar dredger, Pewter

Auvergne (French TouriSI ( F r e n c h Governmenl o u r is t Office) c e)

",

i:x::"; "

ofi

AUVERGNE -- There of this this cookery of a belief that the the cookery is a There
is belief that region potie, made soup or made of cabbage soup or potée, of of
cabbage region consists consists entirely entirely of fresh pork. fresh and and
salt salt pork. In dish. Each Auvergnat dish. Each pofte is specifically Auvergnat
not a a specifically In fact, fact, potée is not region potie. has its its potée.
France, has Ile de de France, including the the Ile of France, France, including
region of There potde, a dish; the the a wonderful wonderful dish; is the There is
Bourguignonne potée, the Bourguignonne Alsatian as is of Cantal; Cantal; po tie
which, is that that of too, is is succulent, succulent,.as Alsatian potée which,
too, the potie, which and the the very savoury, savoury, and which is is very
Languedoc potée, the Languedoc Parisian potée, which figures daily fare of of the
the of fare on the the bills bills of daily on Parisianpalie,whichfigures capital's
poties manyother other potées There are, are, besides, besides, many capital's
restaurants. restaurants. There in alphafound in in their their alphawhich will
will be be found for which in France, France, recipes recipes for betical freshor
or are made made of of fresh them are SOUP. Ali All of of them betical order,
order, under under SOUP. salt ions, carrots, on onions, pork as with cabbage,
cabbage, carrots, element, with salt pork as a a basic basic element, leeks
potatoes completing the dish. dish. leeks and and potatoes completing the Auvergne
picturesque (for these charmingly picturesque Velay (for these two two charmingly
Auvergne and and Velay regions gastronomes offering gastronomes are rural rural
areas areas offering regions are are inseparable) inseparable) are wholesome, 'with
aastraightstraightcountry cooking cooking'with wholesome, unpretentious
unpretentious country forward, (to quote quote Curnonsky). Curnonsky). forward,
honest honest flavour' flavour' (to Besides peasant soups like soups like are
peasant soup, there there are Besides the the cabbage cabbage soup, mourtayrol,
(beef,ham, pot-au-feu (beef, ham, great Auvergnat Auvergnat pot-au-feu mourtayrol,
the the great chicken, (chestnut soup); and the cheese the cheese cousinat(chestnut
soup);and chicken, saffron); saffron); cousinat soup soup of of Cantal. Cantal.
Excellent The orchards orchards grown in in Auvergne. Auvergne. The Excellent
vegetabies vegetables are are grown 65 65

(apricots, peaches, peaches, fruit (apricots, choice dessert fruit of Limagne

produce choice important the important pears, cherries) supply the and also also
supply cherries) and apples, pears, apples, Auvergne of Clermont-Ferrand. Clermont-
Ferrand. Auvergne fruit industry of crystallised fruit are weIl well known. known.
chestnuts are and chestnuts walnuts and raised which which pasture lands, are
raised lands, oxen oxen are In the mountainous pasture the mountainous In greatly
valued, valued, Mutton is is greatly give meat flavour. Mutton of excellent
excellent flavour. meat of give and VassiviEres and in Vassivières particularly
that sheep raised raised in from sheep that from particularly Chaudesaigues.
Chaudesaigues. its delicacy of of its known for for the the delicacy pork of is
known of Auvergne is The pork The which can can of charcuterie cftarcuterie which
kinds of is made into into many kinds This is flesh. This cities. and other other
big big cities. Paris and shops of of Paris be found found in in the the shops be
quality of of that that poultry of not have have the the quality region may may not
of the the region The poultry The game of good, as of as is is the the game it is
is nevertheless nevertheless good, Bresse, but but it raised at at Bresse, raised
ground and winged. and winged. both ground Auvergne, both Auvergne, pike perch,
tench, tench, pike Carp, perch, fish is is excellent. excellent. Carp, The
freshwater freshwater fish The provide ingreingreand provide lakes, and rivers and
and lakes, in the the rivers eels abound abound in and eels and the found in in the
The trout trout found matelotes. The for succulent succulent matelotes. dients for
dients are delicious delicious Marsenac rivers rivers are Murols and and Marsenac
Massiac, Aurillac, Aurillac, Murols Massiac, Brioude flesh of of Brioude The flesh
prepared au la meunière. meuniire. The or à d la bleu or au bleu prepared salmon.
of Loire Loire salmon. with that that of is comparable comparable with salmon is
salmon particularly morels, morels, mushrooms, particularly succulent mushrooms, In
In the the spring, spring, succulent Auvergne. of Auvergne. and forests forests of
woods and gathered in in the the woods are gathered are of this this specialities
of The culinary culinary specialities Culinary specialities specialities -- The
Culinary potie, is the There is the succulent succulent potée, very numerous.
numerous. There region are are not not very region cabwith cabpork as ingredient,
with basic ingredient, as aa basic salt pork is made made of of salt which which is
potatoes as as acacand potatoes leeks and onions, leeks carrots, turnips, turnips,
onions, bage, bage, carrots, The soupe soupe garlic as local touch. touch.The asaa
local with garlic and with companiments, companiments, and pot-au-feu, in which
aacabbage cabbage in which kind of of rustic rustic pot-au-feu, au is aa kind au
farci farci is chopped with chopped flavoured with and flavoured meat and sausage
meat stuffed with sausage stuffed with parsley is garlic and is cooked. cooked.
garlic and parsiey small largeand and small hams; large are delicious: delicious:
hams; The The charcuterie charcuterie are greaves (blood sausage); puddings (blood
sausage); greaves black puddings country sausages; black country sausages; pork
(q.v.),made kindof of pork ofaa kind madeof (cracklings) ;and (cracklings);
andfricandeau fricandeau (q.v.), pork. piece of saltpork. pdti cooked ofsalt pâté
thin piece cooked in in aa thin pie made made viande,aapie laviande, are tourte
tourte àdla Among local specialities specialities are Among local pork puffpastry
filled with with pork andfilled with puff in pastry and lined with shallow dish,
dish, lined inaashallow of made of omelettemade anomelette brayaude, an and
omelette brayaude, veal forcemeat; forcemeat; omelette and veal ham potatoes and
lean and diced diced le diced potatoes beaten an ham with diced mixedwith beatenegg
egg mixed pan, is with isfilled filled with inthe fryingpan, the frying which,
istumed over in itis turned over which, before beforeit which deSaint-Flour, Saint-
Flour, which grated cream;friands de grated cheese and thick thickcream;friands
cheese and charcuterie; sellingcharcuterie; shopsselling are Parisianshops
theParisian inthe found in arelike like those those found garlic,braised
withgarlic, braised isstudded studdedwith leg which is lambbrayaude, brayaude,which
legof oflamb wine, in white whitewine, aromatics in with andaromatics vegetables
and usual vegetables with the the usual andsometimes sometimes with onions, onions,
and and red beans, beans, with with red andserved served with inaashallow shallow
cookedin with de , potatoes cooked truffade,potatoes cabbage; truffa with braised
braised cabbage; garlic,and and- withgarlic, pan flavoured with panwith ofbacon,
bacon,fiavoured leanrashers rashers of with lean cheese; Tomme cheese; dicedTomme
added fresh diced minute - - fresh last minute atthe added at the last dish
vin,aadish pork; coq pickled park; coqau anvin, potatoes Muratpickled potatoeswith
with bacon; bacon;Murat Puy-de-D6me isis for thePuy-de-Dôme ofthe innsat atthe
thetop topof ofthe theinns for which whichone oneof well Saint-Flour. tripouxof
ofSaint-Flour. wellknown; known; the thetripoux
AUVERGNAT AUVERGNAT

MI'. . ta Moulihs ou 1ns. .lourte Tou,ce adla vionde,F"camn. Fricossin, f'ompe

P,pmpe aux oux v'ande, ns. Ioguodes mou.',no,ses. moulinoises 0 ~,accons ..
Toquades :i Prdlines. Polets d'or -"", : ~W::û,.b~n JA~{;h P,ol,nes. Polers do'
BERRY- ~--.Confectione,y. A· to ·coat .lV"--A ~ ~ .! T,uffwes s ~ .,oQ" l S - . .,
~ , 9ALLIER r-SOD (', 1 S. ' k chees : , '" 0"(' ~"CIOU e, 1 n ...; .!
>1onlllllll·iiult \l 0 • 1 . /.''''.'' ~~. Rou)adoux ~ yonnade. Pompe aux Tou,ce
0.'0 v,onae ec!.~. • 1 l . • ViireUIlr.s g,al[On'· dIa vola,lIe. F"coss'~/J .
1'vt.;ri" S.\(l\ll' n Il J,op'alI'..'se Goune,/e. Sucre de Honey.. ~'7-" 0 ! .
_~Jourié' ci la cerises 1 O.' la VO.la;/le
Stuffed chicken Stuffed chicken with with ! s~"r6o-fi.IJ chestnuts, Game chestnuts.
~,~, ('('p' "Oi~ Game

s.Am-and'.~~d/. • ,h. '"a';I/sl-, "9'..-;; -Monlpond ° 6. V ,{>,

, #*rsl*\

. . . . . . . . . . ··.1 .~ . . . "••;, o."

-9,,".IJ
~
'''0

,(0,;"

é.

, .... ;

"

BUBGUND] BURGUNDY

--.,

~, ' .

...

A VINER -- French AVINER French word word meaning meaning to to season, season, or
or impregnate impregnate aa new new wine wine cask cask to to make make it it lose
lose the the taste tasteof of wood. wood. To To season season aavat vat also press
the also means means to grapes as to press the grapes as the the vat vatis is being
filled. being filled.

N'.

Iro" "e"

Montluno

.J

î~conf~S!ioner~.~anvtf l]~nde. -.
, ",
1

MARCHE, ,
Noix de veau "} ,
cle,monco/se, Pâces and fruit

Vegetables and frUit: Fruit pdces ~)

Preserves

~~~ Q',,""i.,~tÎ ~ Iliom.es.Monl8gnej<{> <#-' (,~..~tÎ Cheese ~ 't!-':.-

Maréeiia·tt,.

LIMOUSIN

1 ChoCOlable ~....
<;)

Co ou ~/n q h BI ue c eese

~'J Chocol;ue. FrUit pâces OJJicl.:'{1ucs : PU"{-OE-OQM\i> L la i l ' e S . .N,

clrure ~' ~\' S,. Tripoux Ham /"""'---_~ Ch,ese ~ ~oob ~~.Ambe.rt 'flntlll'me
'-., - RO'y"iJt

Aprocot an .~ . • ~I" NAIS ~angeliCa pôces ~ Crunchles 'Clcrmonl-F9-'.J Î ~ !

Jl1rpièrc

~ Rill~lsarley ~\ "_~,lIord ,jclWI\fon. if" ( . ThIers .' .. LYON"

"

/ . " Ichy:. T,?ut . , Crayfish, Cepes a la rëme. Ragoût of carrot. Il }" sugar.
FrUit pôces ,sWsalmlS of.mutton

11/
1

Cheese cakë'

véilln-a.,t,,J'Rf

~-,..../' ~

JOm

<:>, ~

Tripoux
II'

'.

1'1~ >
<;)

M!-~ ~o -Fourme ",Mo,eli~ . Dore"" ,,,J>. ssoirecheese Leg of lamb

v.;e-'
j>

,--

1 -~~o\~~f-o" Ȏ~r.~'J'~~:''''''J-~_titlJ'rJa~IC

c ~ ~\".t-, &~r,~.t:à~,.,tG{,l'Il1liÙI.J-7/.
lk \\1 brayoude

......

Maur •
,,,'
, ,

Founlorde

'B~. ~
J 1

Il

-4 ~o'\;~~Cib",'Ham
~,~

.D"" A-" .ura"'tratP corne.,!s \~. i DO J CI o-ti'" '.'. .~ "'" ~ ~.$ ~ A! Flour Pu
pamles ~
-\"ç~ ,~Vic.s/·Cere

A ko" 'V ~"\.

,~

Tripoux, P'ckled pork

Saus!.ge. s ) --'L' ANGUE ;(.'

rlOU

. '.

~- M;r-;"s

Salmo~ ....

C':

A voeado pear pear Avocado

(o~1- g\l J,CANT~L

~""" Tarts. Bêt/ses

~ ..
_.."~

and Farces

urillac .~/' P~ta~:;,se d /0

Tr!poux, Ham. Salaison, ,.' ~ Goose, Turkey,. Fourme cneese, 1 .CfJaudeSéUgues.

Trout Truffado, Chestnuts, Bourrloles \~. ," Caldagues leg of lamb (buckwheat
pancikes) :q,<" ,;:

r,,,.

.,

Sto8':à~: r)
_.~.1

,\(vV)

\. }

..!-

YENNE
Gastronomic map of Auvergne Gastronomie Auvergne

o SlFou-rcain

PrlnclFl

*ortrr:

the fish fish dishes, Among the je/lied eel is dishes, Ussel jellied is notable,
notable, and game dishes, among the the game dishes, Brioude thrush thrush cutlets.
cutlets. The The pasta products products of Clermont-Ferrand Clennont-Ferrand are
are excellent. Sweet Sweet dishes and confectionery fiagnarde.- millards and
confectionery include flagnarde; millards de de cerise; Clermont-Ferrand angelica;
Clermont-Ferrand angelica; Thiers Thiers crunchies; crunchies; Riom ichaudi; Murat
échaudé; Murat cornets; cornets; Saint-Flour bltises bêtises and farces; and
farces; Aurillac Aurillac chestnut tart buckwheat pancakes. pancakes. tart and and
buckwheat Cheeses Cheeses of Auvergne include the famous Cantal Cantal cheese;
cheese; the the Bleu Bleu d'Auvergne, d'Auvergne, the the small small Riommois
cheeses; goat's cheese. milk cheese. Wines Wines - The vineyards of of this region
{o <;lo not produce any great red sorne very good good table wines. wines. red or
white wines, but some The wines wines of Auvergne Auvergne are are classed classed
among among the the V.D.Q.S. They appellations Côtes d'Auvergne and and Vins They
are are the the appellations C6tes d'Auvergne d'Auvergne, from from the Gamay Gamay
and and white and and black black Pinot grapes. Chanturgue known of of the the
local vineyards. Chanturgue is the best known AUVERGNAT AUVERGNAT - Variety of of
vine, native native of of Auvergne Auvergne and cultivated cultivated in the
country around Orl6ans. Orléans. It is best known because because of of the the
poet poet Boileau, Boileau, and does does indeed indeed produce produce wine which,
as he heady and and of of a strong strong colour. As far he says, is heady back
back as as the the days days of of Louis Louis XIV, XIV, inn-keepers inn-keepers
were were in the the habit as the the ofmixing it with with lighter lighter and and
less-coloured less-coloured wines, such as of mixing it lignage, lignage, to to
obtain obtain pale pale or ros6 rosé wines, wines, which which were were sold sold
under under the of Ermitage, Ennitage, and which which are are now now known known
under under difdifthe name name of ferent ferent names. names.

A VOCADO PEAR. AVOCADO PEAR. AVOCAT The fruit AvocAr -- The fruit of of the the
avocado avocado tree, tree. native of of tropical tropical and and sub-tropical
sub-tropical America. America. The The kernel, kernel, in in the middle middle of
pulp, is of the the pulp, is about about the size of a the size of a walnut.
walnut. The The fiesh flesh of of the the avocado avocado is prized by is much much
prized by the the Americans. Americans. It It is is thick, thick, buttery, buttery,
spreads spreads like like butter, is and is butter, and nutty in in taste. The The
avocado pear is avocado pear is slightly slightly acid. acid. It It is is eaten au
naturel eaten au naturel or seasoned UCE) or seasoned with with Vinaigrette
Vinaigrette sauce (see SA sauce (see SAUCE) or stuffed stuffed with crab salado
salad. F or sorne For some years now chefs have have been been testing testing
their ingenuity in in the the creation of new new recipes for (avocado soup, for
this this fruit fruit (avocado soup, creamed creamed avocados, avocados, avocados
avocados as as dessert, dessert, etc.). etc.). The The best best variety of avocado
pear pear cornes comes from Brazi!. Brazil.

Avoeet

in countries countries with cold or temperate temperate climates, particularly in

climates, particularly cold or of Europe Europe and America. America. along the
coasts coasts of along The flesh fiesh ofthe of the avocet, although although quite
quite delicate, delicate, savours savours of of The consists almost almost entirely
entirely of of fresh fresh the food it lives on, which consists wonns and aquatic
aquatic insects. insects. fish, worms European avocet avocet is is about about the
the size size ofa of a pigeon, and and is is The European Avocet shooting shooting
is is pracpracrecognisable by its pied plumage. Avocet Poitou. tised in Poitou. AH
the the culinary culinary methods methods All given for for teal teal (q.v.) (q.v.)
can can be be given applied to avocet. avocet. applied

AVOCET_ AvocErro AVOCETIE- A genus of wading wading birds. birds. It It is is found

found AVOCET. - genus of

AVICE AVICE - French French pastry-cook, pastry-cook, contemporary contemporary of

of Antonin Antonin Car€me. Carême. In In his his books, books, Car6me Carême speaks
speaks of of him him with great great
respect and gives gives him him first first place place among among the the pastry-
cooks pastry-cooks of of respect and that brilliant brilliant epoch. epoch. that

- Village Village in Champagne, Champagne, cradle cradle of of Champagne Champagne

wine wine Ay AY it became became a a sparkling sparkling wine). wine). (which was
was famous even even before before it (which Leon X, Charles Quint, Quint, Henry
Henry VIII VIII and and Frangois François I 1 had had Leon
66 66
AZYMOUS AZYMOUS
officers permanently stationed at Ay Ay to look look after after the the precious
officers permanently stationed vineyard and supplies of of aod ensure that the
court had regular supplies the wine. Henri willingly accepted the title of 'Sire of
Ay'. Henri IV williogly

AYAPANA Plant originating originating in in South South America. America. Its A Y

AP ANA - Plaot leaves, exuding a a pleasant aroma, are are used as infusions,
leaves, exuding pleasaot aroma, used as aperients and soporifics. aperieots in the
the same way way as as tea, tea, but but as as the the The infusion is made in
smell ayapana is is very very strong, strong, 12 12 or 13 leaves leaves are or 13
smell of of the the ayapana enough for a a six-cup teapot. Ayapana blends blends
perfectly perfectly with egg yolks, and with cream.

It is for comcomin taste. taste. It is used used for sweet in acid and and slightly
sweet colour, col our, acid liqueur. a much-prized liqueur. and a confectionery and
potes, confectiooery as weil well as as throughout in Spain, Spain, as Italy and
and in In Provence, Provence, in Italy In jam, which very a very for jam, which is
is a it is is used used for Algeria, it of Algeria, whole of the whole the popular
preserve. popular
for reonet, rennet, which is is made from from AZtror LZY term for AZI or AZY -
French term is added. added. amount of of vinegar is a certain certain amount whey
to which a
word AzyME -- Etymologically, Etymologically, the the word AZYMOUS (Bread). @read).
AZYME azymous meaos means unleavened unleavened.. azymous unleavened bread; of
making their uoleavened The Jews had two ways of by usiog using ordinary ordinary
or by the flour, flour, or either by previously grilling the l| teateasalted,
allowing allowing li wann water and and salted, flour kneaded with warm fiour (l
lb.) paste was pe}450 g. (1 was rolled rolled lb.) flour. flour. The The paste
spoons of salt salt pet spoons 450 g. placed on a metal metal I cm. inch) and and
placed on a a thickness of 1 cm. (t out to to a thickness of out $ inch) and baked
in was then baked in then pricked and sheet. The rolled-out pastry was sheet. a
slow oven. a grilled oatmeal flour is is from grilled oatmeal fiour Unleavened
bread made from bread made Unleavened in the the same same manner. prepared in

namb of a shrub known rs 01 azarolus WhlCh whrch IS oI lne tne name of koown as
Crataegus azarolus same species It is species as is also also called épine as
hawthorn. ipine d'Espagne hawthorn . .Tt in France. a service tree. F.rance. This
shrub is similar to a

AZAROLE of the the Neapolitan Fruit of Neapolitan medlar; medlar; common - Fruit

The Neapolitan medlar is indigenous to the whole of the Mediterranean area, and it
it is is also also cultivatcd cultivated in in the the Paris Mediterranean area ,
aod yellowish in region. is oval, oval, reddish reddish or or yellowish region. The
medlar medlar berry berry is

Azarole

67 67
BABA -- Cake Cake made made of leavened dough, of leavened dough, mixed mixed with
with raisins raisins BABA and steeped in kirsch or rum after cooking. and steeped
in kirsch or rum after cooking. The invention invention ofthis of this cake cake is
is said said to to be be due due to King Stanislas to King Stanislas The Leczinski.
Sorne Some authors authors state state that gastronome did that the the royal royal
gastronome did Leczinski. not invent invent the the baba baba we know, but we know,
but found found a a new new way way of of eating eating not a kugelhopf, kugelhopf,
which which had had been been made made in (Lvov) since in Lemberg Lemberg (Lvov)
since a 1609. He sprinkled the cake with rum and set it alight as one He sprinkled
the cake with rum and set it alight as one 1609. does a a plum pudding. does plum
pudding. The kugelhopf, done done in in this great success this way, way, had had a
a great success at at the the The kugelhopj, court of of Lorraine, Lorraine, where
where it it was was served served accompanied accompanied by by a a court sweetened
and and spiced spiced Malaga Malaga wine. King Stanislas wine. King Stanislas was
was an an sweetened avid reader reader of of the Thousand and the Thousand and One
One Nights, Nights, and and named named his his avid favourite sweet sweet after
after one one of of its favourite its heroes. heroes, Ali Ali Baba. Baba. The cake
cake was introduced in was introduced at the The in Paris Paris at the beginning
beginning of of the the nineteenth century by a pastry-cook, Sthorer, *ho had seen
it nineteenth century by a pastry-cook, Sthorer, who had seen it in Lun6ville,
court ef He fjf Poland Poland was was transferred. transferred. He in Lunéville,
where where the the court made it a speciality of his establishment in rue
Montorgueil, made it a speciality of his establishment in rue Montorgueil, and
called and called it it simply simply 'baba'. 'baba'. Sthorer Sthorer made made the
the babas babas in in advance, advance, moistening moistening them them with with a
a brush brush dipped dipped in in wine wine just just before selling before selling
them. them. Later, Later, the the process process was was to to immerse immerse
them them in in rum-flavoured rum-flavoured syrup. syrup. In calledfribourg,, In
the the 1840s, 1840s, a a cake cake of of similar similar nature, nature, called
jribourg, was was made At the the same same time time a a Parisian Parisian maifte
maître made at at Bordeaux. Bordeaux. At phtissier, omitting raisins pâtissier,
omitting raisins from from the the dough, dough, gave gave the the cake cake
another another shape, shape, and and steeping steeping it it in in a a syrup syrup
of of his his own own creation, creation, produced the brillat-savarin, which later
became savarin. produced the brillat-savarin, which later became savarin. Says Says
Lacam: Lacam: 'He 'He gave gave to to his his friend friend Bourbonneux,
Bourbonneux, with with whom at Chiboust's, Chiboust's, the the idea idea of of
using using the the same same whom he he worked worked at dough dough baked baked
in in a a hexagonal hexagonal mould, mould, and and creating creating a a cake cake
which of the the heroes heroes of ofla la Dame Dame which was was called ca lied
gorenflot, gorenflot, after after one one of de lfontsoreau.' de Montsoreau.'

Large baba baba Large mould mould (Larousse) (Larousse)

Baba

Recipe Recipe used used by by the the pastry-cooks pastry-cooks for for babas:
babas: Sift Sift 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4] 4t cups) cups) flour flour into
into a a large large wooden wooden bowl, bowl, make It teaspoons teaspoons make a a
well weil in in the the middle, middle, put put into into this this well well l|
salt salt and and 20 20 g. g. G (t oz., oz., Il cake) cake) yeast yeast which which
has has been been dissolved dissolved in (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant
*t cup) cup) warm waffi1 milk. milk. Add Add 7 7 whole whole in I1dl. dl. (6 eggs,
eggs, and and work work the the paste paste with with the the hands hands to to mix
mix well. weil. DistriDistribute bute 300 300 g. g. (11 (Il oz.,l] oz., I!cups)
cups) butter, butter, which which has has been been softened, softened, in in small
small pieces pieces over over the the paste. pas te. Cover, Cover, and and keep
keep the the paste paste in in a wann place place until until the the yeast yeast
has has risen risen to to double double its its original original a wann
Rum babas and mould (Larousse\ Rum babas and mould (Larousse)

Add Add 25 25 g. g. (l (1 o2.,2 oz., 2tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar,

sugar, and and knead knead the the paste thatit itabsorbs absorbsthe thebutter.
butter.Add Add 50 50g. g. (2 (2oz., oz., scant seant pastewell weilso so that
I~cup) cup)currants currantsand and 50 50g. g. (2 (2oz., oz., scant seantI~cup)
cup)goiden goldensultanas. sultanas.
68 68

size. size.
BADIAN BADIAN ANISE ANISE
weil.Put Putthe tbepaste pasteinto intowell-buttered well-butteredbaba babamoulds,
moulds,filling filling Mix well. upto toone-third one-thirdof oftheir theirheight.
height. up 1 Bake Bake in in a a hot hot oven oyen and and allow allow to to cool
cool before before turning turning the the babas out out of ofthe the moulds.
moulds. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with rum rum or or kirsch. kirsch. babas Syrup for
for babas. babas. snop SIROP A À BABA BABA - Add Add 2* 2t dl. dl. (scant (scant ]
t pint, pin t, Syrq generous cup) cup) rum rum to to l| 1t litres litres (2| (21
pints, pints, 3* 3! pints) pints) syrup syrup generous tooked to .to 104"C. 104°C.
(219"F.). (219°F.). A A small small quantity quantity of of coriander coriander is
is iooked ~ometimes used used to to flavour ftavour the the syrup' syrup. sometimes
BABIROUSSA - This This mammal, mammal, allied allied to to the tbe wild wild boar,
boar, BABIROUSSA Idiffers from from the the latter latter in in the the curious
curious development development of of the the differs 'canines. Its Its general
general appearance appearance and and squat squat shape shape give give it it a a
canines. :certain similarity similarity to to the the rhinoceros. rhinoceros. Like
Like the the latter, latter, it it lives lives certain in the the swampy swampy
forests forests of of the the Malay Malay Archipelago, Arcbipelago, and and is is
in ifairly easily easily tamed. tamed. Its 1ts flesh, ftesh, which which is is
prepared prepared in in the the same same fairly Iway as as that that of ofwild
boar (q'v.), (q.v.), is is much much ptaed. prized. wild boar way ,BACCHANALIA.
BAccHANALES BACCHANALES - Festivals Festivals celebrated celebrated in BACCHANALIA.
Ihonour of Bacchus. Bacchus. These These festivals festivals began began in in
Egypt, Egypt, spread spread honour of Ito Phoenicia, Phoenicia, and and then th en
to to Greece Greece and Italy. Italy. to iBACCHANTE - Priestess, Priestess, votary
votary of of Bacchus. Bacchus. BACCHANTE 1

~ix

Bacchus and the the infa)JI infagt Bacchus Leucothea and The The nyrnph nymph
Leucothea

Bacchus a barrel on a Bacchus on ofwine. Faïence. Faience. (Larousse) (Larousse)

pork in in mean pork used to to mean Once used rurrlE MAIcRE FUMÉ LARD MAIGRE
BACON. LARD - Once pork. particularly salt salt pork. general, particularly
general, in Segretain Segretain read in (bacon) had killed,'we had been been
killed,' 'A big hog (bacon) we read we of Cockayne Cockayne we fable of in the the
fable And in tale. And Moine's medieval tale. read: pats si a non Coquaigne
Coquaigne a non Si paiS Si gaigne. dart, plus ii gaigne. Qui Qui plus ii dort,
d'aloses et d'aloses saumons et bars, de de saumons De bars, De encloses; maisons
encloses; toutes les les maisons Sont toutes Sont sont d'esturgeon; d'esturgeon;
chevron ii sont Si chevron Si de bacons bacons couvertures de Les couvertures Les
de saucisses. saucisses. sont de lates sont Et les les lates Et
CockaYne, land of of Cockayne, land, the the land In this this land, In gain by it.
by it. would one wou more one the more one sleeps, sleeps, the more one The more
The Id gain and shad shad With bass, salmon and bass, salmon With enclosed; are
enclosed; houses are All the the houses AIl sturgeon; made of of sturgeon; are made
rafters are Their rafters Their bacon of bacon The roof roof of The aresausages.
sausages. slates are And And the theslates meals tomeals in France France to
applied in once applied Adjectiveonce BACONIQUE BACOMQUE -- Adjective prepared
pork, fresh orsalt, salt, prepared freshor of pork, exclusively of which consisted
consistedexclusively which ways. in various in various ways.

BACCHUS the of the Dionysus of god of the Dionysus wine' the of wiile, Roman god
BACCHUS -- Roman Greeks. in in Thebes Thebes in legend, in to legend, according to
born, according He was was born, Greeks. He Boeotia. was one one mother' was his
mother, Semele, bis father. Semele, was his father. Boeotia. Jupiter Jupiter washis
of ters of Hermione. and Hermione. Cadmus and daughters of Cadmus of the the daugh
When of fiery bolts bolts of (struck down by the the fiery down by lay dead dead
(struck When Semele Simele lay her shed had not had not perished have peri would
have too, would Bacchus, too, lover), Bacchus, her lover), Jupiter from young fruit
of love love from fruit of the young draw out out the Vulcan draw made Vulcan
Jupiter made Semele's of daughterof thedaughter Macris, the feet. Macris, his feet.
at his lying at body, lying Seinele's body, Aristaeus, put Sabazius put andSabazius
her arms arms and into her child into the child received the Aristaeus, received
him his of his monthsof nine months the nine complete the to complete god's thigh
thigh to in the him in the god's gestation. gestation. - His the nursed the
Antoncienursed and Antonoe Agaveand Inno, Agave His three aunts, Inno, threeaunts,
child maternal with maternaI him with for him years, and cared for andcared in rus
hisearly early years, child in devotion. passed Bacchus passed Nymphs,Bacchus of
the theNymphs, handsof the hands From the devotion. From into initiated
Musesinitiated TheMuses Silenus.The andSilenus. Muses, and ofthe theMuses, into
those thoseof him Silenus dance;Silenus anddance; harmony and of harmony
knowledgeof into the himinto theknowledge taught wine. ofwine. making of andthe
themaking himviniculture viniculture and taught him The than ratherthan herorather
Bacchus aahero makes Bacchus hisbirth birth makes ofhis natureof Thenature aagod;
we andwe godand mortal,and andaamortal, ofaagod love-child of god;but heis isthe
thelove-child buthe cannot He word.He theword. pagan sense ofthe senseof inthe
thepagan hisdivinity divinityin cannotdeny deny rus is corn-bearing goddessof
ofcom-bearing wasthe thegoddess Cereswas asCeres wine,as lordof ofwine, isthe
thelord and werethe the theywere thatthey thought that ancients thought Theancients
agriculture.The andagriculture. sacred which liquid,wruch andthe theliquid,
solidand presiding over overthe thesolid couplepresiding sacredcouple sus tain and
life. animatelife. andanimate sustain

Badian anise Badian anise

same ofthe thesame tree ofa atree Fruitof BADIANE- -Fruit BADIAN of AI\ISE.BADIANE
BADIAI\ ANISE. of name the underthe known betterknown name tasting under name of
ofanise. anise.ItItisisbetter name tastingof as used anise.Itltisis Chineseanise.
called star Chinese used as aa alsocalled andisisalso staranise, anise,and

69 69
BAGRATION

BAGRATION

carminative in the form of an infusion (50 to 60 g. per litre, canninative in the

fom of an infusion (50 to 60 g. per litre, 2.to2l oz. per scant quart, generous
quart) and in tfie prepara2 to 2-!- oz. per scant quart, generous quart) and in the
preparation of certain liqueurs. Its taste is more pungent than that tion of
certain liqueurs. Its taste is more pungent than that of green anise, and the
essence to which this-fruit owes its of green anise, and the essence to which this
fruit owes its aroma is toxic if taken in heavy doses. Cases of poisoning aroma is
toxic if taken in heavy doses. Cases of poisoning as a result of taking too strong
an infusion have been known. as a result oftaking too strong an infusion have been
known. In India, China and Japan, this plant is burnt to scent the ln India, China
and Japan, this plant is burnt to scent the houses; it is eaten after a meal to
freshen the mouth, and it is houses; it is eaten after a meal to freshen the mou
th, and it is also mixed with tea and liqueurs. also mixed with tea and liqueurs.
Badian anise, which was brought into Europe by an Badian anise, which was brought
into Europe by an English sailor at the end of the sixteenth century,ls used in
English sailor at the end of the sixteenth century, is used in the manufacture of
Bordeaux anisette. The seeds of badian the manufacture of Bordeaux anisette. The
seeds of badian anise are used in confectionery and pastry-making. In some anise
are used in confectionery and pastry-making. In sorne northern countries it is used
for flavouring bread. northern countries it is used for flavouring bread.
BAGRATION- Thena name ofaaRussian Russian general general who whofought fought
BAGRATION - The me of against Napoleon. It is given to various dishes: Bagraion
against Napoleon. It is given to various dishes: Bagration soup, Bagration salad
(see SOUp, SALAD). soup, Bagration salad (see SOUP, SALAD). BAIN-DE-PBD @ootbath)--
Colloquial Colloquial French French for for an an BAIN-DE-PIED (Footbath) excess of
liquid, principally coffee, if it overflows and spills excess of liquid,
principally coffee, if it overflows and spills from the cup cup into into the the
saucer. saucer. from the

pompe.ii fresco ARoman Roman baker, baker,after A afteraaPompeii fresco

Bain-marie Bain-marie

Cooking such as Cooking in in a a bain-marie bain-marie - Ceriain Certain dishes,

dishes, such scrambled scrambled eggs, eggs, butter butter sauces, sauces, custard
custard creams, creams, mousses, .oily, disintegrate meat meat and and fish fish
loaves, loaves, which which may may turn turn 'oily' or or disintegrate if if they
they are are cooked cooked on on direct direct heat, heat, can can be be cooked
cooked in their own utensils, hot water. water. In U.S.A. a utensils, which which
are are lowered lowered into into the the hot utensil is used used for for this
this purpose. purpose. utensil called called the the double-boiler double-boiler is
In In France, France, the the name name bain-marie bain-marie is is also also
applied applied to to a utensil utensil for for sterilising sterilising babies'
babies' bottles. boules.

BAIN-MARIE and confectionery, this is is a a BAIN-MARIE - In In cookery cookery and

confectionery, this vessel in which sauces and and other vessel half-filled half-
filled with with hot hot water, water, in which sauces delicate delicate dishes
dishes can can be be kept kept hot hot until until required. required.

In France, France, the the bakers' bakers' corporation corporation was In

wasaaconfraternity, confraternity, or or religious society, society, under under
the religious the name name of of talemeliers. talemeliers. Their Their statutes
can can be be traced traced back statutes back to to the the time time of of Saint
Saint Louis, Louis, and and the oldest oldest complete complete set the set of of
regulations regulations in in existence existence is is that that preserved for for
us us by by Estienne preserved Estienne Boileau Boileau at at the the begjnning
beginning of of the the Registres des (Register of des métiers mitiers (Regjster
Registres of Trades), Trades), collected collected about about 1260. 1260. The
first first clause clause decrees: 'No-one can The decrees: 'No-one can become
become a a talemelier talemelier in the the suburbs suburbs of in of Paris Paris
who who does does not not buy buy the the right right to to trade trade from the
the King'. King'. One of of their privileges privileges was One was the the buying
buying and and reselling reselling of pigs of pigs paylng for for tbis right,
because without paying this right, because they they needed needed pigs pigs to to
eat eat the bran which was not yet, in in those those days, days, separated
separated from fiom the the flour. To To become a fiour. ter baker, a mas master
baker, and and to to have have the the right right to to practise his his trade, a
a baker had had to to serve serve a a four-year apprenapprenticeship, and to buy
the the master's master's certificate certificate from from the king or or the king
from from the king's pantler. From From the time he received this, a right this, a
of inspection of inspection wasestablished. was established. Bread ofinsufficient
of insufficient weight was was confiscated and and distributed to poor, penalties
penalties for to the the poor, for the the violation violation of of the law being
being left to the discretion discretion of the head of the head of the community.
community. Appeals Appeals were were brought before the grand pantler, pantler,
whose the grand whose judgement judgement was final. final. The penalty was was
simple: The penalty simple: a a fine fine of of 6 6 deniers (pennies) (pennies) for
any violation of the law.

1
I[

BAISER BAISER - In In some sorne regions regions of of France, France, this this is
is tle the name name given given to to two two small small meringues meringues
joined joined together together with with thick thick creEur cream or or other
other sweet sweet mixture. mixture. BAJET - A 1 BAJET A species species of ofoyster
oyster commonly commonly found found on on the the coast coast of of west west
Africa. Africa. The The shell shell is is flat, fiat, round, round, and and thicker
thicker than than that that of of ordinary ordinary oysters. oysters. The The flesh
fiesh is is edible edible but but not not verv very delicate. deJicate. BAKERY.
BAKERY. BoULANGERTe BOULANGERIE - Shop Shop where where bread bread baked baked by
by the the baker baker himself himselfis is sold. sold. 1 The Thefirst first bakers
bakers in in Italy Italy were were those those the the Romans Romans brought
brought from from Greece, Greece, following following their their campaign campaign
against against phiiip, Philip, Hannibal's Hannibal's ally. ally. Later,
Later,together togetherwith withthe theireedilaves, freed slaves, bakeii bakers
formed formed an an organisation organisation which which enjoyed enjoyed·
considerable considerable privileges. privileges.
il
1

Ancient bakers' bakers' arms arms Ancient

70 70
BAKERY
Philip the the Fair, Fair, who who introduced introdueed reforms reforms into into
this this legislegisPhilip lation, decreed decreed that that the the fines fines
should should be be discretionary discretionary and and lation, proportionate to to
the the offence. offence. He He appointed appointed the the Provost Provost of of
proportionate Paris to to be be the the bakers' bakers' judge, judge, and, and, at
at the the same same time, time, conconParis of bakery bakery was was siderably
reduced reduced their their privileges. privileges. The The trade trade of
siderably to be be free; free; he he forbade forbade the the buying buying of of
grain grain in in the the markets markets to for resale, resale, and and permitted
permitted private priva te persons persons to to buy buy in in the the for same way
way as as wholesale wholesale merchants. merchants . same In 1366, 1366, Charles
Charles V V ordered ordered that that the the bakers, bakers, both both in in Paris
Paris In and outside, outside, should should bring bring their their bread bread to
to the the market market on on marmarand of the the same same flour Bour and and
ket days. days . They They must must all ail make make bread bread of ket content,
the the same same weight, weight, and and sell sell it it at at the the same same
price; price; and content, of loaf, !oaf, one one which which cost cost 4 4 dmiers
deniers they should should make make two two sizes sizes of they and one one which
which cost cost 2 2 deniers, deniers, the the price priee being being determined
determined by by and the weight. weîgbt. the In 1372, 1372, the the king king
decided decided that that the the price price of of bread bread in Paris Paris In
should be be fixed fixed in in accordance accordanee with the the varying price
priee of should grain. When When grain grain cost cost 8 sous, sous, white white
bread bread or or pain pain dc de chailli grain. costing 2 2 deniers deniers a loaf
loaf should weigh 251 oz. when baked' baked. iosting The bourgeoas bourgeois loaf
loaf at the same price should weigh weigh 37| 371 oz. oz. I dmier, when baked.
baked. Inferior quality pain de brode, costing 1 denier, qwlity pain when should
weigh 36 36 oz. baked. baked. should the beginning beginning of the the fourteenth
fourteenth century century Charles VI At the decreed: decreed: the bakers bakers
may may not buy or cause cause to be bought either 'That the been Bour on on the
Paris markets if if the market has not been grain or flour open at least one one
hour. open or a a miller or no baker baker can a miller be a time be same time at
the the same can at 'That no measurer of grain. bakers may grain except through the
except through not buy buy grain may not 'That the the bakers intermediary a sworn-
in sworn-in measurer.' intermediary of a In interminable an interminable of an VI,
the the rigours of of Charles Charles VI, In the the reign of war, of bread bread
sale of prices of cereals, cereals, the the sale high prices and higb war, the the
scarcity scarcity and against many of of forced many causes forced other causes and
other uncertain payment and against uncertain the ovens. their ovens. destroy their
and to to destroy trade and their trade up their bakers to to give up the bakers A
reto rethem to ordering them in 1415 1415 ordering issued in was issued decree was
written decree A written build pain of banishment. of banisbment. on pain delay, on
without delay, ovens without build the the ovens Further In to time. time. In time
to from time issued from were issued regulations were Further regulations 1439, one
being being measures, one new measures, introduced new VII introduced Charles VII
1439, Charles that In markets. In posted up in the up in the markets. be posted
should he price of of bread bread should the priee that the addition, The noon.'
The grain before before noon.' not buy buy grain shall not bakers shall addition,
'The 'The bakers bourgeois this and this bread, and own bread, their own baking
their were baking classes were bourgeois classes regulation buying, bulk buying,
from bulk bakers from preventing the the bakers at preventing aimed at regulation
aimed and monoPolY. their monopoly. maintaining their and maintaining There
thebakers', bakers', guilds, including including the All guilds, decrees. Ail were
other other decrees. There were were 1569,aa In 1569, insignia. In and insignia.
banners and own banners have their their own were to to have curious wear: wereto
to wear: bakers were what bakers laid down down what regulation laid curious
regulation shirt, forwereforThey were cap' They hose, aa cap. trunk hose, without
trunk drawers without shirt, drawers bidden closing official closing and official
Sundays and go out, on Sundays except on out, except to go bidden to days,
monopolies, set up upmonopolies, toset gather together', 'to gather together', to
forbidden 'to days, forbidden or weapons. orother other weapons. swordsor daggers,
swords weardaggers, or to to wear The hisinthe thehismilestone in marksaa milestone
century marks The seventeenth seventeentheentury tory in improvements in Therewere
wereimprovements trade.There bakery trade. Parisbakery theParis of the tory of
manufacture, regubran,aareguwithout bran, flour without permission to tosell
sellfiour manufacture, permission lation new yeast,and thenew andthe brewer'syeast,
useof ofbrewer's theuse forbidding the lation forbidding pain (bread roll)
roll)proeess. pain mollet mollet (bread Process. The baked Notre-Dame baked
ofNotre-Dame Cathedral of ofthe theCathedral The Chapter Chapter of bread vogue
hadaavogue whichhad painde dechapitre, chapitre,which called pain wascalled which
was breadwhich before ofQueen breadof favouritebread thefavourite bythe Queen
superseded by wassuperseded before ititwas Marie brewer's prepared with
withbrewer's breadprepared salted bread Medici:aasalted deMedici: Mariede yeast .
Then as knownas breadknown camebread Thencame painàdla reine. lareine calledpain
yeastand andcalled pains de de Pain mllk.Pain withmilk. kneadedwith waskneaded
whichwas painsàdla laMontauron, Montauron,which Gentilly pain mollet, was therewas
mollet,there Besidespaiz withbutter. butter.Besides wasmade madewith Gentillywas
pain (pumpkin citrouille(pumpkin painà dla lacitrouille (palebread) andpain
painblême bread)and biAme(pale !oaves), small loaves. bakersof ofsmallloaves.
thebakers loaves),made madeby bythe Richelieu with and measuresand out-of-
datemeasures manyout-of-date withmany away didaway Richelieudid introduced
isisininforce to forceto which legislationwhich reforms,legislation boldreforms,
introducedbold this day. down: Helaid laiddown: day.He this 71

'Grain 'Grain merchants merchants shall shaH not not make make their their
purchases purchases except except outside outside the the ten-league ten-Ieague
(40-km., (40-km., 25-mile) 25-mile) limit limit around around Paris. Paris. grain
not buy pastry-cooks shall Bakers of small smaU loaves loaves and and pastry-cooks
shall not buy grain Bakers of before before l1 Il o'clock o'clock in in summer
summer and and noon noon in in winter; winter; large-loaf large-loaf bakers not buy
buy grain grain before before 2 2 o'clock, o'clock, to to enable enable the the
bakers shall shaU not put needs needs of of the the bourgeois bourgeois to to be he
supplied supplied first. first. Bakers Bakers shall shall put scales and keep
loaves, on their their their distinctive distinctive trade-mark trade-mark on their
loaves, and keep scales and and weights weights in in their their shops, shops, on
on pain pain of of being being deprived deprived of of licence licence or or even
even more more severe severe punishment.' punishment.' They They were were likewise
likewise forbidden forbidden to to store store away away unsold unsold bread; bread
: still unsold at a they they had had to to dispose dispose of of it it at a
reduced reduced price priee if if still unsold within of baking. baking. within
three three days days of and appearance, and 1650, sifted In In 1650, sifted flour
fiour began began to to make make its its appearance, bran a time, at a quantity to
enabled enab!ed a a great great quantity to be be transported transported at time,
bran onwards time onwards From that flour. From of the no no longer longer being
being part part of the fiour. that time in the reign of of 1666, in the reign pigs.
In In 1666, to raise allowed to bakers bakers were were not not allowed rai se
pigs. Fournier, by Fournier, recorded by case was curious case a curious Louis
Louis XIV, XIV, a was recorded (Molibre and bread and the the bread mollet (Molière
&t pain et le le procis Moliire Molière et procès du pain mollet a (A man Poquelin,
a called Poquelin, man called Revue Frangaise. the Revue roll), roll), in in the
Française. (A conwhich concase, which in the the case, involved in was involved
Molibre, was of Molière, relative of relative The yeast had illness). The caused
illness). had caused brewers' yeast claim that that brewers' a claim cerned a cemed
yeast in was in bread bread was brewet's yeast of brewer's use of the use that the
declared that verdict declared verdict forbidden. therefore forbidden. was
therefore and was to health, and detrimental to detrimental of number of the number
century the eighteenth century the eighteenth of the By the beginning of and 500
and between 500 which between 15, to to which to 15, had risen risen to bread
markets had bread a suburbs; a outlying suburbs; and the the outlying city and the
city from the came from bakers came 600 bakers 600 and SaintSaintCorbeil and
Gonesse, Corbeil from Gonesse, 1,000 came came from further 1,000 further but
markets, but main markets, in the the main They traded traded in Germain-en-Laye.
They Germain-en-Laye. holdwithout holdplied their trade without their trade who
plied bakers who many bakel"s were many there were there bakers These unauthorised
unauthorised bakers certificates. These bakers' certificates. ing master master
bakers' ing SaintSaint-Jean-de-Latran, SaintTemple, Saint-Jean-de-Latran, the
Temple, lived around around the lived the They enjoyed enjoyed the and Quinze-
Vingts. la Châtre Ch0re and Denis, la Quinze-Vingts. They Denis, except people from
outside, except from outside, as the city as the people in the the city rights in
same rights same privileges conferred conferred had ail all the the privileges who
had master bakers, bakers, who for the the master for licence. by the the licence.
by

I'Arsenal) Bibliotheque (Miniature from the Boulanger-cabaretier (Miniature [rom

the Bibliothèque dede l'Arsenal) Boulanger-cabaretier
BALACHAN

Bakers at at work, work, after after a a 1ithogra lithograph of 1830 lg30 Bakers ph
of

jurisdiction of Louis XIV XIV abolished abolished the the jurisdiction of the the
royal royal pantler. Louis Artisans and and suburban suburban merchants merchants
were were now now on on the the same same Artisans footing as as those those of of
the the town, town, and qualified master and newly newly qualified master footing
bakers enabled to practise on to practise on the the same same conditions
conditions as as bakers were were enabled their established colleagues paying the
colleagues by by paying the same same taxes. taxes. The The their established
principal aim of of this this concession concession was was no no doubt doubt due
due to to the the principal aim fact years of after severa] several years great
poverty poverty among of great among the that aCter fact that people, Treasury was
and the the State State was was able was depleted, depleted, and people, the the
Treasury to taxation by by imposing on suburban bakers bakers as to increase
increasetaxation imposing it it on well city. in the the city. weil as as on on
those those in There additional laws compelling compelling each baker to There
followed followed additionallaws bring (Abb6 Jaubert, bring a a certain certain
quantity quantity of of bread bread to market market (Abbé Dictionnaire great
Dictionnaire Universel Universel des des Arts Arts et et Mdtiers, Métiers, 1773)
1773) - a a great hardship, hardship, as as they they had had to to get get rid rid
of of all ail the bread bread after a c"itain certain hour, hour, and and so so
must must sell seIJ any surplus very cheaply. cheaply. At At this this period,
period, the the latter latter part part of of the eighteenth century, century,
apprenticeship apprenticeship lasted lasted five five years, years, followed
followed by by four four years working bakers' guild. guild. At At the the end of
the nine years working for for the the bakers' the apprentice, unless unless he he
was was the the master master baker's baker's son. son, had had the apprentice, to
paying for a certificate, certificate, to present present his his chdd'euvre, chef-
d'œuvre, and on paying might might at at last last practise practise as as a a
master master baker. baker. Thus Thus matters matters concontinued French
Revolution, Revolution, but but even even after after 1789 1789 the the tinued
until until the the French breadmaking breadmaking industry industry remained
remained under under strict strict control. It It was was only that it it became
became free. free. only in in 1863 1863 that Baker's Baker's assistant. assistant.
MrrRoN MITRON - The The term term comes cornes from from the the paper paper head-
dress head-dress or or mitre mitre which which bakers bakers wore wore at at work.
work. Bakery Bakery equipment equipment - This This changed changed very very
slowly. slowly. Kneading Kneading was was done done by by hand hand for for many
many centuries centuries in in a a huge huge wooden wooden trough, trough, longer
longer than than it it was was wide, wide, which which stood stood on on four four
legs. legs. It It had had a a flat flat cover cover called called the the tour.
tour . Modern Modern bakeries bakeries have have mechanibal mechanical metal metal
kneading kneading machines. machines. The The ovens ovens remained remained as as
they they are are shown shown in in Diderot's Diderot's Encylopidie En cylopédie
from from the the days days of of the the Romans Romans until until the the
ninenineteenth teenth century: century :a a block block of ofmasonry masonry with
with the the actual actual bakingbakingoven oven inside, inside, square square in
in shape, shape, the the inside inside edges edges rounded rounded off, off,
surmounted surmounted by by a a dome dome called called the the chapelle. chapelle.
The The walls walls were were at atleast least50 50cm. cm. (20 (20inches) inches)
thick thick and and the the oven oven was was heated heated by by wood. wood. Coal,
Coal, burnt burnt in in a a special special fireplace fireplace below below the the
opening opening
72 72

Bakers' ovens, Bakers' 's Encyclopédie ovens, reproduced reproduced from from
Diderot Diderct's Encyclopidie

the oven, replaced wood of the ; then wood; gas, oil then came came gas, oil
heating, heating, and and electricity . Today, electricity. Today, pipes pipes
conta.ining containing a liquid which a liquid which is is first first ber
circulate heated in in a a coaJ-fired coal-fired cham chamber circulate round round
the the oven; oven; a a system that has the the advantage , uniform and advantage
of being being clean clean, and economical. In France, breadmaking breadmaking is
stiJl still mainly mainly carried on on in smallsmallscale establishments,
producing producing a kg. ofbread scale a few hundred kg. of bread a day, but the
the trend trend is is towards mass production in a day, but towards mass in large
large factories, with with skilled factories, skilled technical technical
organisation organisation and and highly highly developed mechanisation.
mechanisation . developed involved in in transforming tran sforming flour flour
into into bread The work involved bread is is under the entry BREAD. BREAD.
described under

- Seasoning Seasoning much much used used in Siam. Siam. In In Tonkin Tonkin it it
BALACHAN is known known as as nukemum. nukemum . It is is mad6 madé of of small
small shrimps, shrimps, pounded pounded is with salt salt into into thick thick
brine, brine, which which is is dried dried in in the the sun. sun. Balachan,
Balachan, with it is is said, said, stimulates stimulates the the appetite appetite
and and fortifies fortifies the.stomach. the.stomach. it BALAINE or or BALEINE
BALEINE - Name Name of of a a restaurant-keeper restaurant-keeper who who BALAINE
ran Ie le Rocher Rocher de de Cancale Cancale in in rue rue Montorgueil.
Montorgueil. Grimod Grimod ran de la la Reynibre, Reynière, who who gave gave
parties parties at at this this restaurant, restaurant, spoke spoke de very highly
highly of of him. him. Car€me Carême considered considered him him to to be be a a
secbndsecondvery rate caterer. caterer. (See (See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF
BycONE BYGONE DAYS.) DAYS.) rate BALANUS - Fruit Fruit of of the the balanire,
balanite, a a shrub shrub indigenous indigenous to to BALANUS upper Egypt. Egypt.
It It is is about about the the size size of of a a hazelnut, hazelnut, and and
when when upper an oil oil used used in in the the perfumery perfumery industry.
industry. When When pressed yields yields an pressed

fresh and and very very ripe, ripe, the the fruit fruit is is edible edible and and
known known as as the the desert desert fresh date; its its flavour flavour is is
enhanced enhanced if ifserved served along along with with other other foods.
foods. date;
BALLOTTINE BALLOTTINE
BALAOU -- French French name na me for for a a small small fish, fish, similar
similar to to the the BALAOU abounds in in Martinique. Martinique. Its Its flesh
flesh is is delicate delicate sardine, which which abounds sardine, and easily
easily digestible. digestible. and ofcooking cooking sardines sardines can can be
be applied applied to to balaou. balaou. Ali methods methods of All BALLOTTINE-
Galantine Galan tine normally nonnally served served as as a a hot hot entie;
entrée; BALLOTTINE it can can also also be be served served cold. cold. The The
ballottine ballottine is is made made of of a a piece piece of of it meat, fowl,
fowl, game game or or fish fish which which is is boned, boned, stuffed, stuffed,
and and rolled rolled meat, into the the shape shape of ofa a bundle. bundle. The
The term term ballottine ballottine should strictly strictly into but not not
stuffedstuffed. It It is, is, apply only only to to meat, meat, boned boned and and
rolled, rolled, but apply however, also also applied applied to to dishes dishes
which which are are actually actually galantines. galantines. hbwever, of lamb lamb
i à la la boulanglre. boulangère. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU
Ballottine of Ballottine À m LA nourANGiRE BOULANGÈRE - Prepare Prepare llke like
Shoulder of of lamb lamb d à la A boulangère (see (see LAMB). LAMB). boulangire of
lamb lamb A à la la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. n,trrorrnsn BALLOTTINE o'lcxnlu
D'AGNEAU A À Ballottine of Ballottine LA BouRcnotsn BOURGEOISE - Prepare Prepare
like Ballottine of of lamb h à la bonne bonne LA femme (see below), below),
replacing replacing the garnish indicated indicated in in that femme recipe by by
garnish garnish d à la bourgeoise bourgeoise (see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) which which
recipe should be be cooked with the meat. meat. braised i à la bonne femme.
BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE BaJlottine of lamb braised Ballottine Stuffa D'AGNEAU BRAISfE
BRAISÉE A À LA BoNNE BONNE FEMMS FEMME - Stuff a boned boned shoulder D'AGNEAU
chopped onion lamb with with sausage meat meat mixed mixed with with chopped of
lamb chopped and chopped which has been lightly fried in butter or lard, and
parsley. parsley. string, and with string, into a tie with a ballottine, tie Roll
the shoulder into cocotte (deep the oyen. an earthenware cocotte oven. Put into an
brown in the in butter, and fry dish). Slice Slice and onions in 12 medium-sized
medium-sized onions fry 12 dish). has been (a oz.) lean bacon which has g. (4
together with about 100 g. (* pint, scant cup) dry dry blanched and diced. Moisten
Moisten with 2 dl. (t blanched a bouquet bouquet white wine been boiled down a
little . Add Ldd a a little. has been wine which has just to cover to coyer garni
(q.v.) and meat stock just and enough thickened meat the ballottine. Bring to the
boil. to the minutes. 45 minutes. CoYer for 45 hot oyen oven for a hot and put it
in a Cover the the cocotte and a lower lower Add cook at at a and cook I lb.)
potato balls balls and g. (generous 1 500 g. Add 500 put heat remove string,
string, put Drain the ballottine, remove the ballottine, 35 minutes. Drain heat for
35 back in serve. and serve. cocotte, and in the the cocotte, ulBallottine
garnishes. BALwith varions various garnishes. braised, witb lamb, braised, of lamb,
Ballottine of and LOTTINE ballottine and the ballottine Prepare the BRAIsfE --
Prepare D'AGNEAU BRAISÉE LorrINE D'AGNEAU braise in the the as described described
in dish, as earthenware dish, it in in a deep earthenware a deep braise it potatoes
or preceding or bacon, potatoes adding bacon, without adding preceding recipe, but
without recipe, but onions. onions. ove string. When string. remove and rem drain,
and is cooked, cooked, drain, When the the ballottine ballottine is Arrange
garnish, or or serve serve a garnish, with a dish, surround surround with on a a
serving serving dish, Arrange on the ove remove liquor, rem braising !iquor, Boil
down down the the braising garnish separately. separately. Boil the garnish the
pour it it over the ballottine. ballottine' over the and pour fat, strain, strain,
and the surplus surplus fat, (see GARGarnishes GARdish (sec for this this dish
suitable for are suitable which are Garnishes which NISHES) bruxelbretonne,
bruxelbouquetiire, bretonne, follows: bouquetière, are as as follows: NISHES) are
loise, mil anais e, maci do ine, milanaise, chipolata, flamande, lo is e,chipolata,
i ar dinidre, macédoine, flamande, jardinière, nivernaise. pilaf, rice, pilaf,
noodles, rice, with noodles, may be be served served with dish may The dish
nivernaise. The risotto, or with butter butter or dressed with vegetables dressed
fresh vegetables with fresh also with risotto, also cream, prepared potatoes
prepared glazed vegetables, and potatoes vegetables, and or glazed cream, braised
braised or in ways. in various various ways. d, with Ballottine garnishes.
BALLOTBALLoTvariorc garnisbes. with varions lamb col col{ of lamb, Ballottine of
TINE en the quitecold, cold, isquite ballottine is When the ballottine FRoIDE - -
Wh rrNE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU FROIDE pour jelly, and untilset. set' leaveuntil andleave
aspicjelly, liquid aspic pour over little liquid it aa little over it Arrange
buttered decrusted buttered on aa decrusted or on dish,or on aa serving serving
dish, Arrange on croûton. chopped jelly' withchoppedjelly. decorate with and
decorate Garnish, and cro0ton. Garnish, All poultry and poultry meatand coldmeat
forcold garnishes recommended recommended for All the the garnishes are cold
ballottine. ballottine. forcold are suitable suitable for BaUottine L'e'
o'acNnluÀALA BALLoTTINE D'AGNEAU in jelly. lamb in of lamb Ballottine of ielly.
BALLOTTINE GELÉE lambwith with oflamb shoulder of flattened shoulder andflattened
Stuffaaboned boned and crrfB - - Stuff Galantine withaa mixedwith (see FORCEMEA
FORCEMEAT) mixed Galantine forcemeat forcemeat (see salpicon (q.v.) composed
truffies. hamand andtruffies. pickled tongue, tongue, ham ofpickled composed of
salpicon(q.v.) Roll, in Cookin withstring. string.Cook tiewith andtie pieceof
ofmuslin, muslin, and no[, wrap wrap in inaapiece jellystock (q.v.).
galantine(q.v.). jelly stock as forgalantine recipefor inthe therecipe described in
asdescribed Drain in againtightly tightlyin upagain andtie tieititup unwrap,and
ballottine,unwrap, Drain the theballottine, aacloth, in alsoin andtying
tyingititalso withstring stringand endwith eachend cloth,securing securingeach the
and ballottineand press.Unwrap theballottine Unwrapthe underaapress. middle.Cool
Coolunder themiddle.
the stock glaze it glaze it with with cold cold aspic aspic jelly jelly made made
from from the stock in in which which it it was was cooked, cooked, clarified
cJarified and and reinforced reinforced with with gelatine, gelatine, if if
nec€ssary. necessary.

jelly. Arrange Arrange on on a a serving serving dish dish and and garnish garnish
with with chopped chopped jelly.

jellY in jelly of lamb in Ballottine oflamb Ballottine

as MouroN -- Proceed Proceed as DE MOUTON BALLoTTINE DE mutton. BALLOTTINE

Ballottine of mutton. Ballottine lamb. of lamb. Ballottine of for Ballottine
described for described garnishes. BALn,lrpork, braised, various garnishes. with
varions braised, witb of pork, Ballottine of Ballottine poRc BRAISÉE pork and and
of pork Bone a a shoulder shoulder of BRAIsfE -- Bone DE PORC LorrINE DE LOTTINE is
braised, braised, ballottine is When the the ballottine of lamb. lamb. When prepare
as Ballottine of as Ballottine prepare jelly, and with one one of of and serve
serve with glaze with with jelly, string, glaze remove string, drain, remove drain,
(see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). meat (see for meat used for garnishes normally
normally used the garnishes the pour and pour fat, strain, strain, and remove fat,
liquor, remove Boil down down the the braising liquor, Boil ballottine. the
ballottine. over the over jetly. BALLOTTINE cnrfn PoRc À A LA tr GELÉE DE PORC pork
in BALLoTTINE DE in jeUy. of pork Ballottine of Ballottine lamb Ballottine of of
lamb prepare as as Ballottine pork and and prepare of pork Bone a a shoulder
shoulder of -- Bone for in the recipe for the recipe jetly. Garnish described in as
described serve as and serve Garnish and in jelly. in Ballottine of of lamb. larnb.
Ballottine boned Take aa boned DE VEAU vEAU -- Take BALLoTTINE DE veal. BALLOTTINE
of veaJ. Ballottine of Ballottine (U.S. sirloin sirloin loin (U.S. of loin end of
of chump chump end slice of thin sUce a thin or a shoulder or shoulder for recipe
for in the the recipe described in proceed as as described and proceed cutlet), and
or cutlet), steak or steak lamb. of lamb. Ballottine of Ballottine with served with
can be beserved hot or or cold, cold, can either hot veal, either of veal,
Ballottine of Ballottine (seeGARGARmeat (see for meat garnishes recommended
recommended for one of of the the garnishes one NTSHES). NISHES). various
withvarious servedwith sauce' served dark sauce, with dark chicken with of chicken
Ballottine of Ballottine Boneaa A BRUN snuN - - Bone DE POULARDE PouLARDE À
garnishes. BALLOTTINE BALLoTTINE DE garnishes. it with with aa (see GALANTINE).
Stuff it GALANTINE). Stuff fowl (see medium-sized fowl medium-sized (see
FORCEFORCEpounded Pork Porkforcemeat quenelle of finely pounded of finely quenelle
forcemeat(see MEAT). MEAT). previously hasbeen been previously which has in aacloth
cloth which ballottine in Boil the the ballottine Boil itwith withstring. string'
and tie tie it ouqand wrung out, water and and wrung in hot hotwater soaked
soakedin justenough to chicken stock stock to pan with enough chicken with just in
aa braising braisingpan Cook in Cook puton andsimmer simmer lid,and onthe the!id,
the boil, boil,put Bringto tothe fowl. Bring coyer coverthe the fowl. minutes. for
for50 50 minutes. inthe minutes the l0minu for10 ithot hotfor keepit andkeep
ballottineand Drain tes in Drain the theballottine properly.Remove Remove
settlesproperly. forcemeatsettles theforcemeat thatthe oyen, toensure ensurethat
oven.to and muslin, and through muslin, strainthrough liquor, strain fat braising !
iquor, fat from fromthe thebraising pint,scant cup) scantcup) with22dl. dl.(t
Blendwith boil bytwo-thirds. down by boildown ftpint, two-thirds.Blend finesieve.
sieve. throughaafine andstrain strainthrough thickened vealstock, stock,and
thickened veal oven,basting basting glazeititin inthe theoven, andglaze ballottine
and Unwrap theballottine Unwrap the with dish,surround surroundwith gravy.Arrange
onaadish, Arrange on with with the thethickened thickenedgravy. gtavy; ofthe the
tablespoonsof fewtablespoons pourover garnish, and overititaafew gravy; garnish,
andpour gravyin inaasauce sauceboat. serve boat. ofthe thegravy restof servethe
therest noodles, recommended:noodles, garnishesare arerecommended: The
followinggarnishes Thefollowing Demidoff, bouquetidre,DemidofJ:
chipolata,bouquetière, celery, orchipolata, mushroomsor celery, mushrooms
pirigournigoise,orientale, orientale, périgourespagnole, milanaise,niçoise, Godard,
milanaise, espagnole,Godard, allother other withail andwith Rossini,
portugaise,Rossini, and dine, piimontaise,portugaise, dine,piémontaise, in small
servedin fowlserved chickenor orfowl garnishes small forchicken garnishes
recommended recommendedfor pieces pieceswith sauce. darksauce. withaadark various
with servedwith sauce, liglrtsauce, Ballottine served varions withlight ofchicken,
chicken,witb Ballottfureof and Prepare srlNc- -Prepare garnisbes. POULARDE BLANC
and PouLARDs ÀA DE garnishes.BALLOTTINE BALLoTTINEDE glazeitit ligbtly. and above,
cook described and glaze lightly. as describedabove, ballottineas cookthe
theballottine

73 73
BALM BALM
Arrange on a fried croffton, or on a foundation of rice or Arrange on a fried croû
ton, or on a foundation of rice or semolina. Surround with a garnish and serve wrth
Vetouti semolina. Surround with a garnish and serve with Velouté or SuprAme sauce
(see SAUCE), using the liquor in which or Suprême sauce (see SAUCE), using the
liquor in which the ballottine was cooked. the ballottine was cooked. Recommended
garnishes: celery, mushrooms, noodles, Recommended garnishes: celery, mushrooms,
noodles, ice, Albufdrq anyersoise, banquière, banquiire,Chi Chivry, demi-deuil,
rice, Albuféra, anversoise, vry, demi-deuil, ivoire, princesse, rigence, Toulouse,
and, generally, with ivoire, princesse, régence, Toulouse, and, generally, with
garnishes recommended for poultry prepared with light garnishes recommended for
poultry prepared with light sauce. sauce. Small ballottines of chicken. pETrrEs
BALrorrrNEs DE Small ballottines of chicken. PETITES BALLOTTINES DE voLAILLE
Ballottines made of chickens' legs, when when the the VOLAILLE - - Ballottines made
of chickens' legs, wings and breast are used for some other dish. wings and breast
are used for sorne other dish. The legs are boned and stuffed as described in the
first The legs are boned and stuffed as described in the first recipe for
Ballottine of chicken They are braised d brun or recipe for Ballottine of chicken.
They are braised à brun or d blanc, and garnished and served as described in the
direcà blanc, and garni shed and served as described in the directions for
Ballottine of chicken. chicken. tions for Ballottine of Sometimes this dish is
given the shape of a ham knuckle, Sometimes this dish is given the shape of a ham
knuckle, in which case it is served under the name of Jambonneaux in which case it
is served under the name of Jambonneaux de volaille. de volaille. Ballottine of
chicken in jelly (chaud-froid) f. nanorrwr Ballottine of chicken in jelly (chaud-
froid) J. BALLOTTINE DE POULARDE A r.l Cnr Fr (rN cruuo-rnon) _ prepare and DE
POULARDE À LA GELÉE (EN CHAUD-FROID) - Prepare and cook as described in preceding
recipes. Finish as indicated in cook as described in preceding recipes. Finish as
indicated in one of the recipes for cold chicken - Chicken mayonnaise, one of the
recipes for cold chicken - Chicken mayonnaise, Niva, parisienne (see CHICKEN).
Néva, parisienne (see CHICKEN). Ballottine of chicken in jely II. slrrorrrNE DE
pouI-er A BaUottine of cbicken in jeUy II. BALLOTTINE DE POULET À L.l csriE Prepare
and cook the ballottine as described in LA GELÈE -- Prepare and cook the ballottine
as described in preceding recipes. Unwrap, and allow to cool in its liquor,
preceding recipes. Unwrap, and allow to cool in its liquor, which has been strained
and the fat removed which has been strained and the fat removed. Arrange the
chicken on a serving dish, glaze, and decorate Arrange the chicken on a serving
dish, glaze, and decorate with jelly made from the stock in which it was cooked.
with jelly madefrom the stock inwhich it was cooked. Ballottine of glazed glazed
chicken (chaud-froid). BALLoTTTNE DE Ballottine of chicken (chaud-froid).
BALLOTTINE DE pouI.Er cracfn (rN crnuo-FRorD) - Cook Cook the the ballottine
ballottine as as POULET GLACÉE (EN CHAUD-FROID) described in preceding recipes,
chill, and prepare as in the described in preceding recipes, chili, and prepare as
in the recipe for Chaud-froid of chicken (see CHICKEI.{). recipe for Chaud-froid of
chicken (see CHICKEN). Ballottines of various poultry. BALLorrrN.Es DE voLArLLEs
Ballottines of various poultry. BALLOTTINES DE VOLAILLES DIvERSES - Proceed with
ducks, turkeys, pigeons or guineaDIVERSES - Proceed with ducks, turkeys, pigeons or
guineafowl as described in the the recipe for Ballottine chicken. fowl as described
in recipe for Ballottine of of chicken. Forcemeat for stuffing ducks or guinea-fowl
can be mixed Forcemeat for stuffing ducks or guinea-fowl can be mixed with one-
third of its gras, and and chopped chopped with one-third of its volume volume of
of foie foie gras, trufles. truffles. These ballottines are served hot or cold,
with garnishes These ballottines are served hot or cold, with garnishes recommended
for chicken. recommended for chicken. BALM. Name applied to various BALM. BAUME
BAUME - Name applied to various aromatic aromatic plants plants of of the the niint
mint type. type. ,to BAMBOCHER BAMBOCHER - Slang Slang term term in in French
French meaning meaning 'to live live it it up'. The word comes from the nickname of
a Dutch painter, up'. The word cornes from the nickname of a Dutch pain ter, Pierre
Pierre van van Laer, Laer, called called 'Le 'Le Bamboche', Bamboche', who who
specialised specialised in in depicting s (barnbo chades'). depicting rustic rustic
scene scenes (bambochades). BAMBOO. BAMBOO. BAMBoUBAMBOU - Arborescent Arborescent
reeds reeds (a (a genus genus of ofwoodywoodygrasses) stemmed stemmed grasses)
grown grown in in tropical tropical countries. coun tries. Its Its young young
shoots are edible, and are pickled in vinegar and sold canned, shoots are edible,
and are pickled in vinegar and sold canned, as a luxury product. The shoots, which
are spiky, are eaten as a luxury product. The shoots, which are spiky, are eaten
raw in China, Indo-China, India, Japan etc. raw in China, Indo-China, India, Japan
etc. pickle . The. The Japanese Japanese pickle tender tender bamboo bamboo shoots
shootsin in sak6 sakévinegar vinegar (sak6 is a spirit distilled from rice). In the
Sunda Isles, ba-m(saké is a spirit distilled from rice). In the Sunda Isles, bamboo
stems are pickled in palm vinegar. boo stems are pickled in palm vinegar. Th9 nlth
of various species of bamboo is very sweet, and The pith of various species of
bamboo is very sweet, and a kind of spirit oozes from it. The fruit of the bamboo
is the a kind of spirit oozes from il. The fruit of the bamboo is the size of a
pear, and is formed of a great number of edible seeds size ofa pear, and is formed
ofa great number of edible seeds resembling ripe ears of maizn or Indian corn.
young bam_ resembling ripe ears of maize or Indian corn. Young bamboo shoots boo
shootsare arecovered coveredwith withfine finebut butsharp sharphairs, hairs,which
whichmust must be removed be removed before before cooking, cooking, otherwise
otherwise perforation perforation of of the the intestines may result. intestines
may result. BANANA. BANANE- -Fruit Fruitof ofthe thebanana bananatree, tree,which
grows whichgrows BAN ANA. BANANE intropical regions.About tropicalregions. About 30
30species speciesofit areknown. of itare known. in Inthe theHindu Hindureligion
religion there thereis isaalegend legendin inwhich whichthe thebanana banana ln
wasthe fruitforbidden thefruit forbiddento toAdam Adamand andEve Evein inthe
theterrestrial terrestrial was paradise,which, which,according according to tothe
thelegend, legend, was wason onthe theisland island paradise, ofCeylon,
Ceylon,where where the parents of theparents ofthe thehuman humanrace racecovered
covered of their nakedness nakednesswith with banana banana leaves. leaves. This
Thisexplains explainsthe names thenames their of Adam's Adam's fig-tree andParadise
Paradise banana, banana, which whichthe theIndians Indians of fig-treeand given to
havegiven totwo twospecies speciesof of banana bananatree. tree. have The dietetic
qualities of the thebanana banana are are undisputed. undisputed.It proIt pro.The
dietetic qualities of vides 100 100calories calories per per100 (250 calories g.
(250 100 g. per100 g.in calories per 100g. ini ts itsddried vides ried form) and
and aasufficient quantity of sufficient quantity ofail all the the mineraI mineral
salts saltsnecesnecesform) saryfor for the the body's body's maintenance.
maintenance. sary It is is rich rich in in starch, starch, which which is is
transformed transformedinto into extremely extremely It energising sugar sugar when
when the the fruit fruit is is fully fully ripe. ripe. It Italso alsocon contains
energising tains aI wide variety variety ofvitamins: of vitamins: A, A, B, B,BI'
Br, Bz, BroBrz, D and and E. E. B lz , D wide When ripe, ripe, the the banana
banana is is full full of of nourishing nourishing constituents. constituents. When
It con contains 74pr cent water waterand and22 per cent cent carbohydrates.
carbohydrates. It tains 74 per cent 22 per These carbohydrates carbohydrates are
are only only assimilable assimilable when when the fruit is is the fruit These
fully ripe; ripe; in green bananas in green bananas it it remains remains a non-
assimilable a non-assimilable fully starch. starch. Bananas destined destined for
for export export are are harvested harvested when when they Bananas they are are
green, at still green, at a a stage stage when when their their fiesh flesh is is
white white and and without without still flavour. They They have have to to be be
transported transported in in conditions conditions ofa fiavour. ofa steady steady
0 temperature of 12.5" to of ]2.5° (54.5. to l3'c. to l3 to 55·5°F.) 55.5"F.) in in
ships temperature e. (54·5° ships specially equipped equipped for for this purpose.
They this purpose. They are are shipped shipped in specially in complete stems
stems of of from from 15 15 to (33 to to 40 40 kg. kg. (33 to 88 88 lb.) lb.)
wrapped wrapped complete in special paper or g special paper polythene bags, or
polythene 'hands' of bags, or or in in 'hands' from 8 of from in to 12 12 bananas
packed in bananas packed in cartons cartons or or crates. crates. to On arrivaI,
arrival, the (which should the bananas bananas (which should be at the be at On the
same same stage of of maturity maturity as as they they were were at port of at the
the port embarkation) of embarkation) stage are ripened ripened either either in in
converted converted cellars cellars heated heated to to a a temare temperature of
from
16·5° of from 16.5' to (61.5' to 20"C. (61,5° to 20°e. to 68°F.) 68'F.) with
perature with a a humidity value value of per cent of 90 90 per cent to 95 95 per
cent, cent, or in in specially humidity specially equipped depôts. dep6ts. The
ripening ripening period is carried out according aciording equipped to
requirements, requirements, and varies from 3 to 8 days. to When bananas are to be
eaten raw, preference When bananas are preference should be given a uniform golden-
yellow colour, to those those which which are a uniform golden-yellow given to or
lightly lightly spotted. spotted. or There are some two There are sorne two hundred
hundred species of bananas bananas in in cultivation tivation throughout throughout
the world. Of these, three varieties are commonly sinensis and and poyo, commonly
found found on the French French market: market: sinensis similar similar to to
each each other, both both slightly curved, with fragrant, tasty and gros-
Michel,larger. tasty flesh, fiesh, and gros-Michel, larger, straighter, straighter,
less less fragile fragile (and (and therefore therefore more resistant to handling)
handling) but but less fragrant. fragrant.

BAMBOO BAMBOO MUSHROOM. MUSHROOM. cnauprcNoN CHAMPIGNON DE DE ralrsou BAMBOU -- A A

mushroom mushroommuch muchvalued valuedin inChinese Chinesecuisine.It cuisine. Itis
isavailable avaiJablein in
Europe only in its dried form. Europe only in its dried form.
Ripening for Ripeningplace place forbananas bananas(Pomona') (Pomona)

74 74
BANANA BANANA
Sinensis and andpoyo poyo come come from from Martinique, Martinique, Guadeloupe,
Guadeloupe, the the Sinensis Ivory Ivory Coast Coast and and the the Canaries.
Canaries. The The gros-Michel gros-Michel is is grown grown in in Central America,
America, South South America America and and Cameroun. Cameroun. The The latter
latter Central is gradually gradually being being replacedby replaced by poyo.
poyo. is In In France, France, the the gros-Michel gros-Michel of of Cameroun
Cameroun is is marketed marketed principally principally in in the the east east of
of the the country, country, the thepoyo poyo of of the the Ivory Ivory Coast and
and Canary Canary bananas bananas in in the the south, south, Antilles Antilles
bananas bananas Coast in the the Paris Paris region region and and the the west.
west. in
Cut Cut the the banana banana halves halves into into slices, slices, and and steep
steep them them in in sugar sugar and and rum rum for for 30 30 minutes. minutes.
Partly Partly fill fill the the banana banana skins skins with with (q.v.) Dessert
Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE) RICE) mixed mlxed with with a a salpicon salpicon
(q.v.) of of cryscrystallised and flavoured flavoured with with rum. rum. Arrange
Arrange the the banana banana tallised fruit, fruit, and slices slices on on top,
top, put put the the fruit fruit on on a a baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle
sprinkle with with in and brown ground macaroons' melted melted butter butter and
and finely finely ground macaroons, and brown in a a hot hot oven. oyen. (se
SAUCE). Serve Serve with with rum-flavoured rum-flavoured Apricot Apricot sauce
sauce (see SAUCE). AUx BANANES A Banana Banana crottes croOtes ià la la
Bauvilliers. BauviUiers. cRoOrEs CROÛTES AUX BANANES À LA LA BALTVILLIERS
BAUVILLIERS - Cut Cut a a stale stale brioche brioche into into a a dozen dozen
rectanrectangular cm. (2|inches) (2+ inches) long long and and a a little little
wider wider than than a a gular slices slices 6 6 cm. with sprinkle tray, a baking
on Put the slices banatra. banana. Put the slices on a baking tray, sprinkle with
fine fine sugar, sugar, ara.d and $aze glaze in in the the oven. oyen. Peel Peel 6
6 bananas bananas and and halve halve lengthways. lengthways. Fut Put them them on
on a a buttered buttered baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle sprinkle with with fine
fine sugar sugar and and cook cook in in alternating the the oven OYen for for 5 5
minutes. minutes. Arrange Arrange the the bananas, bananas, alternating with with
slices slices of of brioche, brioche, in in a a circle circle in in a a fireproof
fireproof dish' dish. Fill FiJI the the and vanilla, centre cooked with with milk,
milk, sugar sugar and vaniJla, centre with with semolina semolina cooked
sernoEnglish (see SEMOLINA. SEMOLINA. English semoand bound with with egg egg yolks
yolks (see and bound (q.v.) of fruit of preserved a salpicon lina Lina pudding).
pudding). Mix Mix with with a salpicon (q.v.) preserved fruit macaroons crushed
macaroons finely crushed with finely dish with the whole Sprinkle the Sprinkle
whole dish serving, Before serving, oven. Before in the the OYen. and brown butter,
and andmelted and melted butter, brown in (see SAUCE) with flavoured with SAUCE)
flavoured sauce (see Apricot sauce with Apricot surround with surround maraschino.
maraschino. I-l A LA saNA,NEs À lux BANANES cno0rus AUX maltaise. CROÛTES il la la
maltaise. Banana crofites cro0tes à Banana Banana for Banana reclpe for in the the
recipe described in as described Prepare as MALTAIsE MALTAISE - Prepare French
thick French by thick semolina by replacing semolina Bauvilliers, replacing d la la
Bauvilliers, crofites à croûtes grated orange orange with grated (see CREA
flavoured with pastry CREAMS), cream (see pastry cream MS), flavoured peel. peel.
peel orange peel candied orange with candied of bananas bananas with circle of the
circle Decorate the Decorate almonds. halved almonds. and halved and and Peel
bananas bananas and rhMsfns -- Peel BANANEs FLAMBÉES flambe. BANANES Bananas
flambé. Bananas put into into and put Drain, and syrup. Drain, in vanilla-flavoured
vanilla-flavoured syrup. them in cook them cook liqueur, with liqueur, Sprinkle
with dish. Sprinkle ovenproof dish. a timbale timbale or or a a shallow shallow
ovenproof a when serving. serving. alight when and set set alight and A LA LA
BANANEs À DE BANANES FLAN DE la crème. crdme. FLAN i la tart à or tart flan or
Banana flan Banana Put them them lengthways. Put them lengthways. and halve halve
them Peel bananas bananas and cniuB -- Peel CRÈME in the the cook in and cook fine
sugar, sugar, and with fine dish, sprinkle sprinkle with in a a buttered buttered
dish, in pastry, and fill and fill made of of short short pastry, flan made in a a
flan Arrange them them in oven. Arrange oyen. with Sprinkle with (see CREAMS).
CREAMS). Sprinkle pastry cream cream (see with French French pastry with oven. in
the the oyen. brown in and brown crushed macaroons, macaroons, and crushed Peel
FRITES- - Peel (garnish for BANANES FRITES for meat). meat). BANANES bananas
(garnish Fried bananas Fried minutes for 30 30 minutes Marinate for lengthways.
Marinate bananas lengthways. and halve the bananas halve the and light inaalight
halves in juice, salt pepper. Dip Dip the the halves and pepper. salt and in oil,
oil, lemon lemon juice, in required. when and fry, fry, wh batter and batter en
required. Banana asBanana are the the same same as course, these these are orsweet
sweet course, As aadessert dessert or As (see below). below). fritters fritters
(see
steeped steeped in in maraschino. maraschino.

Curved banana banaoa from from the the Curved Canaries Canariesand and straight
straight banana banana from America America from

are sometimes dried in their country of origin Bananas are Their calorific and
exported in this form. fonn. Their calorific value then rises to The banana meat.
The about 285 285 calories calories per 100 100 g. - twice twice that of ofmeat.
banana about reduced to 'flour'. 'flour'. It takes this forrn form in a number can
also be reduced cocoa.. preparations, usually flavoured with cocoa of industrial
preparations, as 200, as many bananas may consist of as many as 200, and A stem
stem of bananas lb.).. weighs from 35 88 lb.) 35 to 40 kg. (77 to 88 weighs FouR
bananas in AU FOUR BANANDs AU Baked bananas. BANANES - Bake the bananas and melted
butter and wlthout peeling them. them. Serve with melted oven without the oyen
desired.. fine sugar. Serve with a fruit jelly, if desired a red fruit 6 I\rt 6
BEAUHARNAIS - Put Ba nanas Beauharnais. BANANDs BEAUHARNAJS Beauharnais. BANANES
Bananas with Dust with dish. Dust fireproof dish. peeled a buttered peeled bananas
buttered fireproof into a bananas into (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine with 4 4
tablespoons tablespoons (5 fine sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle with for 5 5 oven
for white in the the oyen Cook in the stove. stove. Cook heat on on the white rum,
and heat rum, and with crushed crushed minutes. Pour thick cream over sprinkle with
over them, them, sprinkJe glaze in in a a hot hot and glaze macaroons melted
butter, butter, and a httle little melted macaroons and and a oyen . Serve dish.
same dish. in the the same oven. Serve in and Peel and Bananas BoURDALoUE - Peel
BANANtrs BOURDALOUE Bananas Bourdaloue. Bourdaloue. BANANES in the the as described
described in proceed as poach and proceed poach the bananas in in syrup, syrup, and
(see APRICOTS) . recipe APRICOTS). bourdaloue (see for Apricots recipe for Apricots
bourdaloue Peel bananas, bananas, Ba nanas in AU BEURRE BEURRE - Peel BANANEs AU
butter. BANt\NES Bananas in butter. with put and sprinkle sprinkle with dish, and
fireproof dish, put them in a a buttered them in buttered fireproof (180'C.,
350°F., Mark 350oF., Gas Gas Mark sugar. oven (180°C., in the the oyen sugar. Cook
Cook slowly slowly in 4) minutes. 20 to to 30 30 minutes. 4) for for 20 Banana
COMPOTE. See COMPOTE. compote -- See Banana compote poach the the Bananas Peel and
and poach coxo6 - Peel BANANEs CONDÉ Cond6. BANANES Bananas Condé. recipefor for
Apricots Apricots bananas in the the recipe proceed as described in as described
and proceed bananas and Condé (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Condi (see

Bananas à ilacr6ole la créole Bananas

Bananas u CRÉOLE cnforp- cnarlNfns ÀALA BANANEsGRATINÉES lacréole. cr6ole.BANANES
Bananas àI la Choose Remove lengthwise. Remove andcut cutthem them lengthwise. firm
bananas bananas and Choose finn the water. inboiling boilingwater. minutesin
for22minutes theskins skinsfor andsoak fruitand soakthe thefruit Drain, cool.
tocool. incold coldwater waterto anddip dipthem themin Drain,and
75 75

Fried bananas with cream

BANDOL

(669426 Ashurbanipal (669-626 Ashurbanipal

n.c.) feasting with B.C.) feasting with his his

qtet(British queen (British Museum) Mweum'l

Banana fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE BANANEs -- Halve DE BANANES Halve

the the bananas bananas Banaoa lengthways and and steep steep them them for for an
an hour hour in in rum rum or or kirsch kirsch and and lengthways sugar. When When
required, required, dip dip them them in in batter and deep-fry batter and deep-fry
in in sugar. sizding fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, and and sprinkle sprinkle
with with fine fine sugar sugar before before sizzling serving. serving. Batter.
Make Make a a smooth paste with smooth thick thick paste with 3 3 tablespoons
tablespoons Batter. (scant t cup) flour flour and and warm wann water. water. Add
Add a a tablespoon tablespoon olive olive * cup) (scant oil, and and leave leave to
to stand stand for for 2 2 to to 3 3 hours, hours, stirring stirring from from time
time to to oil, time. time. Just before before using, using, fold fold 2 2 stiffly
stiffy whisked whisked egg egg whites whites into into the the Just batter. batter.
Banana mousse mous$e glacé glac6 ICE CREAMS See lCR CREAMS AND AND ICES, ICES,
Banana - See Fruit mousse. Fruit mousse. Banana soufflé. sorff6. SOUFFLÉ sourrrf
AUX AUx BANANES BANANESa tablespoon Banana - Blend a flour and a a small small
pinch of salt into a a smooth paste with wittr,l dl. flour and pinch of 1 dl. (6
scant 1milk which has been been boiled with with (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant
* cup) milk 35 3 tablespoons) and allowed sugar and allowed to 35 g. g. Q (2
tablespoons, tablespoons, 3 tablespoons) sugar cool. (or 1a vanilla teaspoon
vanilla vanilla essence) cool. Add Add half halfa vanilla bean (or ] teaspoon and
the boil, stirring ail all and stir stir well. weIl. Bring Bring slowly to just
just under the the be that the time; time; remove remove from from the heat. The
texture should be of of thick thick cream. cream. Rub with Rub the the pulp pulp of
of 4 bananas bananas through through a fine sieve, mix with 2 and add add this 2
egg egg yolks yolks and and a heaped heaped tablespoon butter, and mixture stiffly
whisked mixture to the the cream cream in the saucepan. Add the stifly egg egg
whites. whites. Butter and pour Butter a a soufr6 soufflé dish, sprinkle with fine
fine sugar, sugar, and in in the the mixture. mixture. Bake Bake in in a a slow
oven oyen (160"C., (160°C., 325"F., 325°F., Gas Mark Mark 3) 3) for for 12 12 to to
15 15 minutes. minutes.

BANIX)L BANDOL - Charming Charming fishing port port in the &ipartement département
of
Var Var which which has has given given its its name name to to excellent white,
red red and ros6 rosé wines wines produced produced in in the the locality.
locality. (See pROVENCE.) PROVENCE.) BANGI BANGI - Small Small tree tree which
which grows grows in in the the philippines. Philippines. It is lactescent
lactescent and and produces produces a a pleasant, pleasant, green green coloured
coloured fruit, the size size ofan of an orange. orange. BANILLES BANILLES - Long,
Long, tapering tapering small small pods pods which which have have some sorne
similarity similarity to to the the vanilla vanilla bean. bean. They They contain
contain a a fragrant, fragrant, sugary sugary juice juice which which is is often
often used used instead instead of of vanilla vanilla in in the the
manufacture manufacture of ofchocolate. chocolate.

BANQUET BANQUET - The The word word possibly possibly comes cornes from from banc
banc (bench). (bench). It It may may have have been been on on benches benches that
that the the first first Christians Christians sat sat as as they agapes in in the
the catacombs. catacombs. they celebrated celebrated their their agapes Whatever
Whatever the the origin origin of of the the word, word, banquet banquet signifies
signifies a a sumptuous sumptuous meal meal given given to to a a large large
number number of of guests guests on on festal festal or or ceremonial ceremonial
occasions. occasions. Or Or it it is is given given to to bring bring together
together
76 76

people of of the thesame sameliterary literary or people tes, or orartistic

artistic tas tastes, orreligious religious or or political ideas, ideas, or or of
of the the same political same social profession, or social status, status,
profession, or ethnic origin, origin, and and so soon. on. ethnic The mystic mystic
character character of The of aa banquet banquet is is to to be foundin prebefound
inprehistory. In In the the origins history. origins of of ail allhuman human
activity activity there there was wasmagic, magic, the need need of man to the of
man to make make the the mysterious mysterious forces forces of of nature nature
favourable to to him. favourable him. On On the the walls walls of ofthe the Trois
Trois Frères Frires caves cavesin in Aribge, there primitive painting there is is
aa primitive painting of Ariège, of aa sorcerer sorcerer in in cereceremonial
robes, robes, performing performing aa sacred monial sacred dance dance in in the
the middle middle of of an immense immense herd an herd of of cattle; cattlb;
apparently apparently sorne some kind kind of of incantaincantation to to make make
the tion the tribe's tribe's hunting hunting successful. successful. When a When a
slaughtered slaughtered animal animal layon ground, it lay on the the ground, it
was was divided into into two divided parts, the two parts, the first first for for
the the benevolent deities, benevolent deities, the the other other for for the the
tribe, tribe, clan clan or or family. family. In got In this this way way men men
got used used to to meeting meeting together, together, to to divide divide amongst
amongst themselves themselves the the parts of chosen chosen parts of the the
animal. animal. They They continued continued to to do do this this on on the the
occasion occasion of great events of the the two two great events of of their their
lives, lives, birth and birth and death. death. These These were were the the first
first banquets. banquets. When large therings at gatherings large ga at table
possible, the table became became possible, the era era of of banquets banquets
began. The The most magnificent were were those those that that took took place in
the fertile fields fields of of the the orient, orient, especially especially rich
rich in in spices spices and and fiavourings. flavourings. The The banquets banqueb
of tbe the Egyptians Egrptians The Egyptians Egyptians were were very very - The
careful in their cooking, cooking, because because they they believed believed that
that illnesses illnesses were caused by the wrong choice choice and and cooking
cooking offood. of food. ConContrary trary to the customs customs of most Eastern
Eastern countries, countries, the the women women took charge took charge of of the
the organisation organisation of of banquets banquets in in Egypt, Egypt, directing
directing the the service and and presiding at guests were at table. table. The The
guests wire ushered into ushered into an an ante-room ante-room on on their their
arrivaI, arrival, where where they they washed their their hands washed hands and
and feet. feet. They They then then disported disported themthemselves in various
games before the feast. feast. banqueting hall, At the entrance to the banqueting
hall, servants servants crowned crowned them with wreaths of flowers. The The first
first drinks drinks were were served, served. the meal meal began. prayers were
said, and the prayers guests sat began. The The guests sat on on the the and the
the various dishes dishes were placed near floor, and were placed near them, them,
in in Young musicians provided music on the harp, lyre baskets. baskets. provided
music on the harp, lyre and tambourine; sometimes there there were were
performances by and by acrobats and mimes. mimes. acrobats Herodotus, Athanaeus
Athanaeus and and Plutarch Plutarch have have recorded recorded that Herodotus,
that in order order to to stimulate stimulate the the guests to to enjoy enjoy
earthly earthly pleasures pleasures to to the full, full, a a coffin coffin was was
sometimes sometimes brought brought in at the the end end of of the the the in at
skeleton in in it, it, so so that that they they should should meal, with with an
imitation skeleton meal, of life, Iife, especially especially appreciate more more
highly the the good good things things of appreciate those of of the the table.
table. those of the the Assyrians Assyrians and and the the Chaldeam Chaldeans -
Strabo The banquets banquets of The - Stra bo that the the epitaph epitaph
inscribed inscribed on on the the tomb tomb of of SardanaSardanatells us us that
tells
BANQUET BANQUET

Fresco Fresco showing showing a a meal meal in in

Greek Greek times limes

son of Anacyndara, palus reads: reads: 'sardanapalus, 'Sardanapalus, the the son
Anacyndara, had palus day. Passer-by, a day. Tarsus built in a the towns of
Anchiale and Tarsus matters!' and be merry, for nothing else matters!' eat, drink
and armies their armies of their victories of The Assyrians Assyrians celebrated
the the victories The with banquets. In an Assyrian bas-relief, we can see the king
reclining on a sumptuous couch, the queen sitting at his feet, reclining on
stringed instruslaves playing on the table table richly richly decked, decked,
slaves the they were feet; they no feet; have no ments. The table have on the the
table vessels on The vessels ments. designed to be in one copious draught. be
quaffed in gives a a description description Maspéro, his Lectures Historiques,
Historiqtres, gives rnhis Masp6ro, in Ashur-bani-pal, the by Ashur-bani-pal, of
ordered by of these these banquets banquets ordered of one one of its power: of its
king under whom the height of whom Nineveh reached the for comers for all corners
open to ail 'The doors of the remained open the palace remained the walls, walls,
hung on on the seven draperies hung Multicoloured draperies days. Multi-coloured
seven days. transforming yards into into immense immense banqueting courtyards the
court transforming the night, till night, morning till halls. from morning into
them them from crowded into People crowded halls. People liked. they liked.
whatever they stretching and ordering whatever on couches couches and out on
stretching out to this this admitted to were admitted Women and as men, men, were
as well well as and children, children, as prevented them them largesse. duties
prevented whose duties were soldiers, soldiers, whose Nor were largesse. Nor drink
and drink food and leaving king sent sent food the king forgotten; the the
barracks, leaving the barracks, forgotten; to come.' not come.' could not who could
to those those who gardens capable of capable of In and gardens were orchards
orchards and Babylon, there there were In Babylon, The sumpsumpsupplying a long
long siege. siege. The food during during a with food town with the town supplying
the of the the those of tuousness equalled those there equalled the banquets
banquets there of the tuousness of Assyrians. Assyrians. nomads were nomads The
Hebrews were The Hebrews Hebrews -- The of the the Hebrews banquets of The banquets
the for to occupy occupy the Chaldea to out of of Chaldea come out period, having
having come for a a long long period, the land of the peace on banks of on the the
banks and peace Prosperity and land of of Canaan. Canaan. Prosperity Jordan of the
the table. table. pleasures of partake of the pleasures of the to partake them to
enabled them Jordan enabled luxury and and when luxury At pleasures, but but when
simple pleasures, were simple At first first they they were very refinement became
very their banquets banquets became introduced their were introduced refinement
were table, but but elaborate. down to to table, satdown kings they they sat of the
the kings time of At the the time elaborate. At They later to eat. eat. They
couches to on couches reclining on of reclining habit of adopted the the habit
later adopted guests arrived arrived perfumed when guests and when with essences,
essences, and perfumed their wine with their wine poured over over for was poured
perfume was water and and perfume holy water for aa banquet, banquet, holy places
them, their places andtook took their flowers, and with flowers, crowned with they
were were crowned them, they according rank. to their their rank. according to
pipe.' Music andpipe.' 'with the tabret and harp, the the tabret the harp, was made
made 'with Music was Women were they were feasts, but but they tothe thefeasts,
admitted to firstadmitted not at atfirst Women were werenot accepted the
entertained,the handsomely entertained, were handsomely andwere in time, time, and
accepted in Sabeans wrists theirwrists putting bracelets on their bracelets on
desert putting from the the desert Sabeans from and heads. their heads. crowns on
ontheir and crowns 'One The says:'One Athenaeussays: Persians -- Athenaeus of the
thePersians banquetsof The banquets thousand king's table; table; theking's forthe
dailyfor areslaughtered slaughtered daily animalsare thousand animais horses,
thesmaller smaller of the mostof andmost deerand asses, deer oxen,asses,
camels,oxen, horses,camels, animaIs. Arabian asArabian suchas arealso alsoconsumed,
consumed, such Manybirds birdsare animals.Many
77 77

geese and cocks.' and cocks.' ostriches, geese ostriches, given by by a banquet
banquet given describes a Esther describes of Esther Book of The Book The prowas
profavour was fall from from favour Vashti's fail when Queen Vashti's Ahasuerus,
when orders. king's orders. at the the king's appear, at to appear, refused to had
refused she had claimed after she gardens, pblace gardens, in the the palace served
in banquet, served magnificent banquet, This magnificent This gold, and and and
gold, of silver silver and were of The couches couches were days. The lasted seven
seven days. lasted gold cups. cups. poured into into gold was poured of wine was
abundance ofwine an abundance organised were organised Feasts were City Feasts the
Greeks Greeks of the The banquets of The - City In occasions. In religious
occasions. or religious on social social or Greeks on the ancient ancient Greeks by
the by citizens occasions, citizens for special special occasions, these banquets
banquets for addition to to these addition within day, within every day, together
every meal together a sacred eat a sacred meal to eat were required to were and the
the fire and presence of sacred fire of the the sacred prytaneum, in in the the
presence the prytaneum, the was custom was if tbis this custom that if Greeks
believed believed that gods. The The Greeks protecting gods. protecting of their
their favour of lose the the favour would lose they would day, they a single missed
by single day, by a missed gods. gods. and meal, and attend the the meal, lot to to
attend by lot men were were selected selected by In Athens, Athens, men In perform
this duty. this duty. to perform refused to punished if if they they refused were
severely severely punished were and robes and white robes wore white table wore at
the the sacred sacred table Those who who sat sat at Those parasites, then sacred
then aa sacred were called called parasites, They were flowers. They crowns of of
flowers. crowns The contempt. The of contempt. a term term of to become become a
destined to later title. but but la ter destined title, but of Demosthenes,
Demosthenes, but time of the time by the parasites had disappeared by had
disappeared parasites in the the together in eat together required to to eat
prytanes were still required were still the prytanes the prytaneum. prytaneum.
guests The guests Greek banquet. banquet.The to aaGreek invited to never invited
Women were were never Women hall, the banqueting banqueting hall, entering the off
before before entering their shoes shoes off took their took gods the gods invoked
the and invoked washed, and for aa time, time, washed, couches for rested on on
couches rested feast. Young Young the feast. down to tothe sitting down before
sitting and country country before of home home and of dancing were dancing and
there there were lute, and andJute, played upon harp and girls played the harp upon
the girls girls. girls.

banquet at Greek musicat andmusic Dancing Dancing and aa Greek banquet

BANQUET BANQUET
The banquets of the Romans - The splendours of Imperial _Tbe banquets of tbe Romans
- The splendours of Imperial Rome were reflected in their banquets. The Romans
often Rome were reflected in their banquets. The Romans often

sacrificed the dishes themselves to presentation and ostentasacrrnced the dishes

themselves to presentation and ostentation. At one meal Heliogabalus served to his
guests 600 tion. At one meal Heliogabalus served to his 600 ostrich brains, peas
with grains of gold, lentils with precious ostrich brains, peas with grains of
gold, lentils stones, and other dishes with pearls and amber. stones, and other
dishes with pearls and amber. The room where the Romans took their meals was called
The room where the Romans took their meals was called the triclinium; it was the
custom to put only three couches the tricliniwn; it was the custom to put round a
table. Each guest brought his own napkin. On arrival, round a table. Each brought
his own the guests changed into white robes and sandals, and took the white robes
and and took their places at table according to their status. After invoking at
according to their status. After invoking the Penates, Lares and Jupiter, they
began the feast, eating Lares and Jupiter, they began the feast, eating with their
fingers. fingers. with their

A Roman banquet A Roman banquet

The first first course course was was the the hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, served
served with with a a Iight light The wine. The The second second was was the coena,
which the coena, which was was the the main main course, couise, wine. after which
which sacrifices sacrifices were were made made to to the the Lares Lares amid amid
silence. silence. after The third third course course was was the the dessert,
dessert, fresh fresh or or dried fruit or dried fruit or fruit fruit The pastries,
but baked in in pastries, but there there was was sometimes sometimes a a more more
solid solid baked course instead instead of of dessert. dessert. In In a a menu
menu found found in in the the ruins ruins of of course Pompeii, this this course
course included included sows' sows' udders, udders, wild wild boar's boar,s
Pompeii, head, fricassie of wild wild duck, duck, and and a a cream cream made made
of of fiour flour and and head, fricassée of Vicence cakes. Vicence cakes.
Musicians, poets poets and and dancers dancers appeared at at important important _
Musicians, banquets, sometimes there there were were gladiator fighti,
acrobanquets, and and sometimes OI~It11~rr\r fights, bats bats and and clowns.
clowns. There accounts of grandiose luxury of the the grandiose luxury of of the
There are are many many accounts barbaric gives us Romans. petronius Petronius
gives barbaric feasts feasts given given by by the the Romans. some from a of what
what they they were were like like in in this this extract extract from sorne idea
idea of description Trimalchio's feast: feast: of one one of of these, these,
Trimalchio's description of 'On 'On a a tray tray of of relishes relishes stood
stood a a small small bronze bronze ass, ass, carrying carrying twin containing
green green and and the the other other biack black twin baskets, baskets, one one
containing olives. Salvers, moulded like olives. Salvers, moulded Iike bridges,
bridges, contained contained dormice, seasoned seasoned with with honey honey and
and poppy seeds. seeds. There There were sizzling sausages on a a silver silver
gridiron, with Syrian Syrian plums plums and pomesausages on granate ..A granate
seeds seeds placed placed beneath it. it ... A basketwas basket was placed placed
before us_containing a hen, hen, wings wings spread spread out ou t as as if if she
she were were hatching. ha tching. us con taining a We We broke broke the the egg,
egg, which which was was made made of of light light pastry pastry looking looking
exactly . . and and found found in in it it a a plump plump beccafico beccafico
exactly like like the the shell shell .... (garden (garden warbler), warbler),
deliciously deliciously spiced, hidden hidden insidl inside the the y-olk. yolk.
Crystal Crystal flagons, carefully carefully sealed, were brought in. in. Around
Around the neck of each the neck each bottle bottle hung hung a a label: Falernian
opimian op imian wine ;vine 100 100 years years old.' old.' The The long long
account account goes goes on on to to list list the the fantastic fantastic manner
manner in in which ;a of the the which dishes dishes were were served served; a
tray tray with with the the twelve twelve signs signs of zodiac reproduced chef had
had zodiac reproduced on on it it in in a a circle, circle, on on which which the
the chef placed dishes dishes analogous to to the the particular constellation
constellation - a a piece of of beef beef over over Taurus (the (the Bull), kidneys
kidneys and and testicles testicles over Cancer (the (the Crab), Crab), the the
uterus uterus of a a sow sow over over Virgo Virgo (the (the over Cancer Virgin),
hare over over Sagittarius Sagittarius (the (the Archer), Archer), two two mullets
mullets Virgin), a a hare (the over over Pisces Pisces (the Fish), Fish), and and
so so on. on. An An enonnous enormous wild wild boar boar was was served served on
on a a platter, platter, with with little little pastry pastry sucking pigs
pressing ..A pressingon on the the teats teats .... A slave slave gave the the boar
boar a a stab irrthe belly and out out flew flew a a cloud cloud of of thrushes,
trying trying to to escape. escape. belly and Bird Bird catchers catchers caught
caught them them with with fowlers' fowlers' rods. rods, and and offered offered
them themto tothe theguests. guests.
78 78

Thebanquets banquebof (100 ofthe theGauls Gauls B.C.) The food ofthe the The (100
B.C.) - -The food of earlyGauls Gaulsconsisted consistedmainly mainlyof offresh
fresh orsalted pork,the saltedpork, the or early animalsthey theyraised raisedin
inthe theforests, forests,and andmilk. milk.Their Theirmeals meals animais
togetherwere werelong, long,served servedby by young people. brazierwi with
AAbrazier th spitsand andcauldrons cauldronswas was placed near the tables,and
andfood foodwas was cookedin inthem. them. cooked guestssat Theguests saton
onbundles bundles of ofstraw strawround roundlow lowtables. The tables.
quantitiesof Greatquantities ofmeat, meat,boiled, boiled,roasted roastedon onthe
thespit spitor Great or grilled,with withaalittle littlebread, bread,constituted
constituted the themeal. meal. grilled, Posidonious, the theGreek Greekstoic
philosopher, has stoicphilosopher, hasleft Posidonious, lefta a description of
ofthe themeal: meal: description 'Thefood food isisserved served in inaac1ean
cleanway: way:on onsil silver 'The ver or orcopper copper dishesin inrich
richhouses, houses,on onearthenware earthenwareor orwood wooden dishes en ones
onesin inthe the homes of ofthe jointand the poor.Each Eachman mantakes takesaawho
whole andbites; homes le joint bites; should the the piecebe too toughor betoo
ortoo toobig, hecuts cutsititwith big,he should withaa small knife, knife,the
thescabbard scabbard ofwhich which is isattached attachedto tohis hissword. small
sword. Asingle singledrinking drinking vessel vesselof ofearthenware earthenwareor
ormetal metalis A ishanded handed round by byslaves slaves and and makes makesmany
manyrounds, rounds,but round butone onedrinks drinks little at at aa time.' time.'
little The Gauls Gaulsdrank drank various variouswines wines from from the thehorns
hornsof The of wild wild oxen, ornamented ornamented with goldor with gold orsilver
silver rings;and andsometimes oxen, sometimes from the the skulls skulls of of
their their enemies enemies killed killed in in battle,or from orof oftheir their
own dead parents, whose dead parents, whosememory memory they own they thus thus
wished wished to to honour, out out of piety. of filial filial piety. honour, The
wines wines of of Bezier Bezier and and Vien Vienna, andItalian The na, and Italian
and andGreek Greek wines, were were seen seen on on the the tables tables of of the
wines, the rich. rich. They They were were taken taken in in quantities, and small
quantities, and diluted diluted with small with water. water. The poor drank The
poor drank and hydromel beer, and hydromel -- herb herb and and spice-fiavoured
beer, spice-flavoured honey, honey, diluted with with water. water. diluted Fish
was was eaten eaten in in areas areas near near the Fish sea, and and mainly
grilled, the sea, seasoned with with salt salt and and cumin cumin and and
sprinkled seasoned sprinkled with with vinegar. On special special occasions,
occasions, the guests sat the guests On at a sat at a round round table, aa
prominent place place being given to being given prominent to the the most most
distinguished distinguished or or the most most valiant. valiant. There There was
was a the a custom custom that that the the legs legs of of the the animals served
served should should be allotted to animais be allotted the bravest. to the
bravest. This This was was a a quarrelso and source of of quarrels, and often often
a a fight source fight to to the the death. death. The banquets of of the the
Gallo-Romans Tbe Gallo-Romans -- The The wealthy wealthy GalloGalloRomans adopted
Latin Latin customs, customs, and and their their banquets were were modelled on
the Roman, though they they discarded discarded the custom custom of reclining
reclining on on couches. of la Bédolière, B6dolibre, in in his his Moeurs De la
Moeurs et et vie privie des des Français, Frangais, describes the the banquets
banquets of describes of the the Gallo-Romans; here here are are extracts: 'Some
Gauls, disdaining disdaining the 'Sorne Gauls, the indolence of of the the Romans,
Romans, use use benches, stools and and other wooden seats seats covered covered
with a a carpet instead ofcouches. instead of couches ... . . The guests put on
special robes and sandals and take their places around the table . .. . . Slaves
Slaves bring in a great quantity of meat, roast or or boiled, which which is is
carved with great skill skiU and dexterity by by servants. The meal meal starts
starts with a tasting of of mulsurn mulswn ot or medwn, mulled wine wine mixed
medum,mulled with sai ver is placed placed in the centre centre of with honey honey
.... . . A salver of the table table and various various dishes dishes are put on
it one after the other: fresh eggs, quarters of of beef, beef, mutton, pork, goat,
goat, all seasoned seasoned with yolks of egg, egg, black black pepper, pepper,
brine, brine, cumin, cumin, salt . ... . As As a a dessert, dessert, the the guests
guests are are served with hot or cold cold tarts. tarts, honey honey cakes, cakes,
soft cheese, cheese, grilled escargots, medlars, chestchestnuts, figs, Gaul peaches
and and grapes. grapes. At the end of of the meal meal nuts, figs, hot hot mulswn
mu/sUIn is is brought in once again, and and slaves distribute toothpicks made made
of feathers, wood and and silver.' silver.' toothpicks The banquets banquets of of
the tbe Franks Franks - Caius Caius Sollius Apollinaris Apollinaris The that one
one could could find find in in the the banquets of of the the Sidonius states
states that Sidonius Franks Franks 'the 'the elegance elegance of of Greece,
Greece, the the abundance abundance of Gaul, Gaul, the the of ltaly, Italy, the the
pomp pomp of of public public ceremonial ceremonial allied allied to to dispatch of
lasUOlOllsness of of a a private private table, table, of of the the order order
befitting befitting a a the fastidiousness palace.' king's palace.' of the the
period period mention mention silver silver tables, tables, gold gold and and
Writers of silver utensils, utensils, tablecloths tablecloths fashioned fashioned
from from fresh fresh roses. roses. The The silver Franks were were very very
hospitable, hospitable, and and had had a a strict strict code code of of table
table Franks
BANQUET BANQUET
manners. Wine Wine was was passed passed round round the the table table and and
the the guests guests manners. drank from from the the same same cup. cup. Lamps
Lamps were were considered considered to to drank desecrate the the table table at
at a a banquet; banquet ;the the room room was was lit lit by by torches torches
desecrate held aloft aloft by by slaves. slaves. held French French banquets
banquets from from the the Middle Middle Ages Ages to to the the fifteenth
fifteenth century - The The beginning beginning of ofa a banquet banquet was was
announced announced by by the the century sound sound of of a a horn, horn, a a
privilege privitege reserved reserved for for the the highest highest personages
kingdom. Guests Guests washed washed their their hands hands with with personages
in in the the kingdom. perfumed perfumed water water before before sitting sitting
down, down, and and after after each each course; course; forks forks had had not
not been been invented; invented; food food was was eaten eaten with with fingers.
fingers.
Faience Faïence and and Nevers Nevers porcelain, porcelain, Venetian Venetian
glass. glass. Forks Forks and and long-handled long-handled spoons spoons had had
come come into into use, use, and and cooking cooking lad had become become more
more refined. refined. Belon, Belon, inhis in his TraitC Traité des des Oyseaux
Oyseaux writes writes of of 'a 'a thousand thousand little little disguises
disguises of of flesh, ftesh, made made into into soups' soups, jricassées, hashes,
hashes, salads.' salads.' After After roast roast and and boiled boiled joints
joints and and Jricassies, game, game, there there were were cold cold
desserts'such desserts 'such as as fruits, fruits, milk milk products, products,
sweetmeats, sweetmeats, cakes, cakes, cheese, cheese, chestnuts, chestnuts, Capendy
Capendy apples, apples, a a salad salad of of lemons lemons or or pomegranates.'
pomegranates.' French French banquets banquets ofthe of the seventeenth seventeenth
century century - In In the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XIII, XIII, there
there was was less less display display at at banquets banquets and and more more
emphasis emphasis on on harmony harmony and and simplicity. simplicity. Under Under
Louis Louis XIV, XIV, however, however, there there were were usually usually four
four substantial substantial dishes dishes - roast roast

Meal served served to Grandgousier, Grandgousier, Gars:?ti:;.i*-, Gargaotua 's

father, from from an old old edition edition of of the Meal works of Rabelais

of presented. The dessert, of plumage, ca Ives and calves and pigs ornately
presented. fruit preserves, dried fruit followed by was followed by dried fruit and
creams, fruit and creams, was (spiced wine) wine).. pastry pastry and and hippocras
hippouas (spiced great banFrench banquets sixteentb century the sixteenth banqueb
of the - The great a love love of of opulence; quets given during show a quets
given century show this century during this dinner plate, gold and and silver
silver dinner richly and engraved engraved gold richly wrought and

side table, on a Goblets and tankards were placed on a side table, and and tankards
Goblets This manner fiUed by pages pages who brought them them to the guests. Th.is
filled end of the meals survived until the end of serving wine during meals In
royal courts, the dishes were tasted eighteenth century. century. In a talisman, to
assure with a by a by a special servant, or touched with not poisoned. The was not
the royal personages that that the the food food was the menus were exotic, and
included roast peacocks with gilded in their pheasants dressed dressed in and
pheasants bills and claws, claws, swans swans and bills and

XIV Louis XIV of Louis the reign reign of during the A Royal Royal banquet banquet
during A

Kings ble at ta table Kings at (woodcut,, Lyon, (woodcut 1508) Lyon, 1508)

79 79
BANQUET

Seventeenth quet fare Seventeenth century cenlUry French French ban banquet rare
(Giraudon) (Giraudon)

poultry and meat, as well soup. These meat,poultry and game gameas weil as as
tureens tureens of ofsoup. These were were followed followed by by melons, melons,
various various salads salads in in bowls bowls 'or 'or in in little !ittle plates
plates

to to make make serving serving them them easier,' easier,' comments comments
Nicolas Nicolas de .de BonBonnefons nefons (Ddlices (Délices de de la la campagne),
campagne), and and goes goes on on to to describe describe what what he he
considers considers to to be be an an ideal ideal banquet banquet for for a a
company company of of thirty thirty people. people. Among Among other other dishes
dishes there there should should be be a a potage potage de de Ia la

Reine, Reine, made made of of minced minced partridge partridge or or pheasant,

pheasant, in in the the first first course; course; roast roast venison venison
haunches haunches baked baked in in pastry pastry in in the the second; second;
woodcock, woodcock, turkeys, turkeys, chickens chickens and and whole wbole lambs
lambs in in the the third; third; snipe, snipe, thrushes,larks thrushes, larks
and'all and 'ail sorts sorts of ofsmall small fried fried things' tbings' in in the
the fourth; fourth; whole wbole salmon, salmon, trout, trou t, carp, carp, pike,
pike, withy'icassdes withJricassées of ofturtle turtle in in the the fifth; fifth;
and and three three finishing finishing courses courses which which would would
include include blancmanges, blancmanges, fruit, fruit, almonds almonds and and
green green walnuts, walnuts, preserves preserves in in syrup, syrup, or or dried
dried marzipans marzipans and and sugar sugar almonds. almonds. French French
banquets banquets of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century century - Great Great
pomp pomp accompanied accompanied banquets banquets in in the the reign reign of of
Louis Louis XV. XV. On On the the occasion occasion of of the the anointing
anointing of of the the king king in in 1772, 1772, a a royal royal banbanquet quet
was was held held in in the tbe archiepiscopal archiepiscopal palace palace at at
Rheims. Rheims. After After gorgeous gorgeous processions processions headed headed
by by musicians musicians playing playing oboes, oboes, trumpets trumpets and and
flutes, fiutes, the the king king was was led led to to a a table table on on a a
dais ofstate. state. dais and andjoined joinedby byhigh bigh officers officers of
The Thecompany companycomprised comprised the the noblest noblestin in the the
land, land, but but ladies ladies and not seated seated with with the the
gentlemen, gentlemen, and and and princelings princelings were were not had had to
to wait wait until until the the king king had had retired. retired. According
According to to the the old old document document from from which which the the
above above descriptions descriptions are are taken: taken: 'During 'During this
this sumptuous sumptuous banquet banquet the the Duchess Duchess of of Lorraine,
Lorraine, who, wbo, from from her her tribune, tribune, could could see see all ail
the the succulent succulent dishes dishes filing filing past past without without
being being able able to to touch touch them, them, quietly quietly nibbled nibbled
biscuits, with with which which she she was was fortunately fortunately provided
provided .... After biscuits, . . After the the dinner, dinner, the the Archbishop
Archbishop of of Rheims Rheîms said said grace grace - the the Duchess Duchess of
of Lorraine Lorraine by by this tbis time time had had reached reached her her
reserves reserves of ofdried dried plums plums-- and and the the king kingwas was
re-conducted re-conducted to to his his apartapart-

ments in in the the same same order order and and with with the the same same
ceremony ceremony with with ments which he he had had been been ushered ushered
in.' in.' which Madame Vigie-Lebrun's Vigée-Lebrun's Greek Greek supper. supper.
Among Among legendary legendary Madame eighteenth century century meals meals was
was a a supper supper given given by by the the artist. artist. eighteenth Vigée-
Lebrun. In her her memoirs memoirs she she describes describes 'the 'the most most
Vig6e-Lebrun. brilliant supper supper I 1 ever ever gave,' gave,' which which was,
was, in fact, a miniature miniature brilliant Her brother brother was was reading
reading a a book book of of travels travels to to her her one one banq uet. Her
banquet. afternoon while while she she was was resting, resting, and and came came
to to a a passage passage afternoon describing a a Greek Greek dinner dinner and
and the the manner manner of of preparing preparing describing

Cutlerybelonging belongingto to Louis LouisXIV XIV Cutlery

80 80
BANQUET BANQUET
decided to several several sauces. sauces. Madame Madame Lebrun immediately
immediately decided have she was these sauces sauces for for a a supper party party
she have certain certain of these giving giving that tbat evening and summoned her
cook, ordering ordering that Greek Greek sauces sauces should be served with witb
chickens cbickens and eels on the menu. evening's menu. and vases urns and had a a
collection collection of Greek urns A friend who had decorated of his best best
pieces, pieces, and the room was was decorated lent her her several several ofhis
lent classical style. in classical and Monsieur Boutin, Two guests, Monsieur
Vaudreuil and guests o'clock, but the other guests not able to come come until ten
o'clock, were not Lebrun dressed Madame Lebrun half-past nine. Madame arrived soon
after half-past draperies she had in her the women in Grecian fashion from
draperies found cloaks and and other picturesque and found studio workroom, and
garments for the men. guests, her her brother While they they waited waited for for
the the two late guests, While two late recited several several odes when the the
others others Anacreon. and and when recited odes of of Anacreon, they found found
the the company Gluck's cborus chorus company singing singing Gluck's arrived, they
bières from Le Dieu de M. de de Cu Cubibres et de de Cnide, with M. de Paphos et
accompanying them on a lyre whicb from which he had improvised from accompanying
guitar. a guitar. 'In all my life 1 I have never seen two faces more astonished
than those of Monsieur de and his his companion,' companion,' de Vaudreuil
Vaudreuil and than 'They continues Madame Lebrun in event. 'They in her recital of
the event. were astounded and and charmed.' as sauces, as Greek sauces, with the
the Greek At supper, were served served with supper, dishes were well as a They
drank drank and currants. They a sweet made made from honey and a bottle of old
Cyprus wine which a present to to the the which bad had been a artist. remarks.
artist. 'That was all the excess,' excess,' she remarks. Rumour quickly ran about
this this famous famous ran round round Versailles about supper. Rome the In Rome
francs. In to have cost 20,000 francs. supper. It was said to whispered to francs,
in in Vienna Vienna to to 40,000 francs, raised to whispered figure was was raised
60,000 st Madame Madame In fact, fact, it it co cost 60,000 francs, in Petersburg
Petersburg to 80,000. In Lebrun, according to her memoirs, 15 francs. l5 francs.
French The beginning century French banquets banque$ in the nineteenth century -
The of this publication of Brillat-Savarin's la of BriJlat-Savarin's Ia the
publication century saw this century saw the Physiologie goitt, in the rules rules
of of in which which he he established established the Physiologie du du goût,

Prince of given by birth of of the the Prince of Banquet te the Banquet given Alba
to celebrate the birth by the the Duke Duke of of Alba to celebra Asturias in 1707

Marie Antoinette on the ocCasion of the birth of the Dauphin in 1785 (engraviog on
metal, Louvre) Banquet given in Banquet given in honour honour of of Louis Louis
XVI XVI and andQueen Queen Marie Antoinette on the occasion of the birth of the
Dauphin in 1785 (engraving on metal, Louvre)

81 8l
BANQUET BANQUET

given on Dinner given Dinner on77Mareil March1806 1806by bythe the printdealers
Paris Paris print dealers to totheir their feUow fellow dealer dealer Le
LeConfrère, The legend Confrdre. The legend on onthe the print prin t bears bears
the following inscription: the following inscription: 'They beg 'They beghim him to
toaccept acc€pt this thislight light sketch their esleem sketchas asaatoken tokenof
oftheir esteemand and friendship. friendship. May heremember rernember them May he
them sometimes sometimes in in his his retirement retirement and and for foraa long
long lime timeenjoy the happiness happiness he enjoy the he deserves heart and
deserves for for rus his kindness kindness of ofheart and probity' probity'

'

great gala dinner harmoniously. For a a great dinner he laid laid down: down:
dining harmoniously. be luxuriously luxuriously lit, lit, the cloth be the c10th of
'That the dining-room be be of the utmost cleanliness, and and the the temperature
from from 13 13 to to 16 16 utmost c1eanliness, (6l"to R6aumur thermometer (61
degrees by the Réaumur () to 66°F.). 66"F.). 'That the men be witty wi
withoutpretensions and the women 'That thout' pre tensions and women channing
without without being too coquettish. charming 'That the choice of dishes dishes be
be exquisite but restrained in 'That in number, and and the win wines the first
first quality, each the es of the the best of of its kind. 'That the order for the
the former should he be from from the the most substantial to the lightest, and for
the latter from the lightest to those with the greatest greatest bouquet. 'That the
speed of of eating eating should should be moderate, dinner the speed be moderate,
being the last affair of the day; and guests behave and that the guests like at the
like travellers who who aim aim to to arrive at the same same destination together.
'That the coffee be scalding hot, and the liqueurs specially chosen house.' chosen
by the master of the house.' He added added rules rules for the guests'
entertainment entertainment after dinner: 'That the salon bebe sufficiently
sufficiently spacious a game spacious to organise organise agame of cards for for
those who who cannot do do without, without, and and to to leave enough room to
enable enable the rest to enjoy conversation. 'That the guests be be held by the
pleasure pleasure of the company, 'That by the hope hope that that the evening
evening will will not not pass without without and stirred stirred by and sorne
further entertainment.' entertainment.' some In In the same sa me epoch, epoch, the
the gastronome Grimod de la Reynière Reynibre established a Charte de bon manger.In
manger. In his bis Manuel des des also established governing banquets. He himhi
mamphitryons are decreed laws governing arnphitryons self gave gave grand dinners,
some sorne of ofthem self them eccentric; he once sent out invitations invitations
for a dinner in the form forro of of obituary notices, out of a big bidding his his
guests guests 'attend 'attend the the funeral funeral and obsequies obsequies of
bidding feed.' feed.' Fashionable Fashionable restaurants, restaurants. During the
nineteenth nineteenth century, century, there was was a vogue for for magnfficent
magnificent banquets banquets in certain resthere At one one such dinner, dinner,
given given at Rocher Rocher de de Cancaleby Cancale by taurants. At taurants. a
certain certain English English Lord Lord W., W., Marennes oysters, oysters, a a
ham roasted a on a spit, grouse grouse brought brought specially from Scotland,
salads, salads, on

special dishes and special sweet sweet dishes and several several kinds kinds of of
cheese, cheese, figure figure on on the the menu. menu. The The wine wine was was
Clos-Vougeot, and the Clos-Vougeot, and the company company did did not not depart
depart until three o'clock until three o'clock in in the morning. the morning.
Banquets onder the Second under the Second Empire Empire -- There There was was a
number a number of gastronomical galas, of magnificent magnificent gastronomical
galas, and and in in the the sections sections headed headed COOKING given of
COOKING and and MENUS, MENUS, examples examples are are given of what what these
these state state dinners dinners were were like. like.

The coronation dinner dinner of of Charles Charles X X at Reims The coronation at

Reims

82 82
BS{mQUILLES

Novernber 1905 Banquet held held in la Galerie des Machines in Paris, 5 November

quite different different in were quite in the later Later banquets - Things were
(22 Sepbanquets and at the celebrated 'mayors' banquet' banquet' (22 guests of the
President 1900), 22,295 guests President of of the Republic, tember 1900), frock
coats and and crush hats, hats. were were served with an attired in in frock
identical menu:
Hors-d'auvre Hors-d'œuvre Filet de boeuf m Bellevue Bellevue boeuf en Pains de
canetons de Rouen Poularde de Bresse rôtie r6tie de faisan Saint-Hubert Ballottine
Saint-Hubert Ballottine defaisan Salade Potel succCs Condé Condi Glace succès
Desserts number of guests sat down Never before had such a large number together at
a a single meal, recounts M. Christian Guy in his achieved Histoire Histoire de la
cuisine française; this was successfully cuisinefrangaise; successfully achieved et
Chabot. by the excellent organisation organisation of Maison Potel et of official
official banquets It is interesting to note that the menus of never mention mention
the may have cheeses served. This may have been never the cheeses served. This
formed part of the dessert and so needed no because cheese fonned special mention.

grand cru grape. The The Banyuls Banyuls grand from the from black Grenache grape.
the black have to have to undergo undergo an an obligatory maturing period of
thirty consumption. months in wood wood before being released for consumption.
tree. Its BAOBAB known tropical African African tree. BAOBAB - The The largest
largest known fruit is monkeys eat eat it. it. Its fruit is called called monkey-
bread, because because monkeys flavour, is made a slight acid flavour, pulp, which
is very sweet with a inhabitants a refreshing drink much liked by the local
inhabitants into a grows, and is drunk of of the region where this magnificent
magnificent tree grows, a great deal in Morocco and Egypt. a in the The Africans
dry shade, The dry the leaves of the baobab in the shade, and mix it with call
lalo, and reduce them to powder which they caUlalo, their food.

(A LA) BANQUIDRE (À BANQUIÈRE Garnish used used for chicken, calves' - Garnish vol-
au-vent It It is made of of quenelles, mushrooms, sweetbreads, vol-au-vent. sauce.
(See thin slivers slivers of banquidre sauce. thin truffies and of trufles and
banquière GARNTSHES.) GARNISHES.) BANTAM BANT AM A variety of Java Java chickens,
named after the -A town where they origjnated. originated. These birds have a very
delicate prepared in the same way as ordinary chickens. ordinary chickens. flesh,
and are prepared
which allowed BANVIN - French word for the feudal right which the seigneur wine
from his estate estate for for a a certain the from his seigneur to to sell sell
the the wine time, before The word word is also used for the is also time, before
anyone anyone else. else. The used for proclamation announcing private day after
announcing the after which which priva proclamation te the day could Id sell
persons cou sell new wine.

Baobab

BAI\YUIS Commune in the eastem eastern Pyrenees, which has BANYULS - Commune given
its name to a well-known appellation controlée controlie dessert a well-known crz,
which is is produced wine and Banyuls grand cru, - Banyuls and from the slaty in a
a restricted mountainous terrain from the terrain in restricted zone slaty
mountainous comprising the communes of of Banyuls, Banyuls, Port-Vendres, Port-
Vendres, comprising the communes Cerbbre and Collioure. This wine is made almost
exclusively exclusivelv Cerbère
83
A hot hors-d'euvre; triangular patties, BARAQUILLES hot hors-d'œuvre; -A filled
(q.v.) of winged game fillets, with a a salpicon calves' fillets, caives' filled
with salpicon (q.v.) winged game gras, trutHes foie gras, sweetbreads, foie trufles
and mushrooms, bound with (see SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Allemande sauce
AarMadeira-flavoured sauce (see SAUCE). Barprepared as rissoles. aquilles are also
prepared aquilles
BARASHmflrffMesU BARASHEKII2f.MASLA
(Butter lamb) (Russian cookery) lamb with butter which has been rendered left in
ic€ ice water. Coyer Cover the model with a thin down with a utter, tter, pressing
down a coarse-weave coarse-weave cloth to give the appearance appearance of fleece.
fleece. Mark the eyes with ttle circles of truffies, trufles, or two raisins. Put
Put a small green ranch in the lamb's mouth. is a a feature of the This symbolic
lamb is the traditional traditional table Easter meal in Russia. laid for the
ritual Easter BAR Make
FRlr as described described in barbel. sARBtLLoN Proceed as Fried BARBILLON FRIT
Fried barbel. - Proceed bass (see BASS). BASS). for Fried bass the recipe for
cnnr,6 -- Proceed Proceed as as described BARBILLON GRILLÉ Grilled Grined barbel.
BARBILLoN for Grilled Dass (see BASS). in the recipe for Grilled bass in A LA
MsuNItnn meunibre. BARBILLoN Ln MEUNIÈRE BARBILLON À Barbel à I la meunière. -
Proceed .Bass à meuniCre (see BASS). in the recipe for Bass d la meunière as
described described in A LA rl MODE Droos DES nEs des mariniers. BARBEAU À Barbel à
i la mode des a l-kg. (2-lb.) barbel and cut off MARINIERS MARTNIERs - Clean and
scale al-kg. fish, fins. Put the roe, if any, any, back into the fish, and fins.
the wattles and pepper. and pepper. seasoned with salt and lightly in in butter 2
chopped 4 shallots and 4 Fry ions and Fry 2 chopped on onions shallots lightly
without browning, browning, and place in an earthenware earthenware dish, together
(a oz.) chopped g. (4 and 100 g. with 7 or 8 chopped dried walnuts and mushrooms.
pepper, fish, season and pepper, Make a a few slits in in the fish, season with
salt and dish. Add Addz and place on the above ingredients in the dish. 2 glasses
g. (4 oz., ~ red wine, and into small red and 100 g. i cup) butter divided into
Bring slowly to the boil on top of the stove, th then pieces. Bring en cook in a
hot oyen basting frequently. Ten minutes oven for 35 minutes, minutes, basting and
with breadcrumbs and before the end cooking, sprinkle sprinkle with end of cooking,
end of the 35 in the oyen. melted butter and and replace in oven. By the end away.
minutes the wine should should have boiled away. with chopped parsley before
serving. Sprinkle with n6rr -- Make in a Roast barbel. barbel. BARBEAU BARBEAU RÔTI
Make slits a mediumslits in in the of anchovy in the slits, slits, sprinkle insert
fillets fillets of sized sized barbel, barbel, insert with oil or melted butter,
season, and roast in the oyen oven or on a spit. frequently during cooking. a spit.
Baste frequently placed on fish is cooked and and placed a dish, dish, dilute the
When the fish on a juices with I tablespoon pan juices with white white wine, wine,
boil boil down, down, add add 1 juice, stir weil, butter and a dash of lemon well,
and serve with the butter lemon juice,stir fish. (see BUTTER) BUTTER) d h|tel
butter butter (see Anchovy butter Matte d'hôtel butter or or Maître can be served
at the same time. parts of the of in sorne the south south of ON BARBER Name used
used in BARBERON some parts - Name France for for salsify. BARBERRY. ÉPINE-VINETTE
shrub. Its fpNn-vtNsrrs -- A common prickly shrub. pickled in green berries like
capers. capers. The green can be be pickled in vinegar, vinegar, like berries can
berries, a red red colour in in November, contain berries, which which ripen ripen
to to a and are are used great deal used to to make tric acid, and a and ci citric
malic and a great deal of malic jam, and syrup, jam, and a a kind kind of wine. for
Barberries are are also also used used to a refreshing drink drink for to make a is
used used brewed from the the roots is feverish feverish conditions. conditions. A
tisane tisane brewed as a in cases of a diuretic, diuretic, especially especially
in of jaundice. AU SEC sEc Dried candied barberries. coNFITE AU fpINe-vINErrE
CONFITE barberries. ÉPINE-VINETTE red a fine fine red An An old old recipe says:
'Take large large ripe barberries of a (21b.) lb.) berries, cook colour. Leave them
in c1usters. kg. (2 For 1 I kg. clusters. For (2jlb.) feather (see SUGAR). lf kg.
(2~ SUGAR). Put in the li lb.) sugar to a large feather appear. barberries and boil
on a high flame until bubbles bubbles appear. 'Ta\<:e the stove. When the fruit is
beginning to. 'Take off to cool, put offthe . it in in a on a a thick c10th cloth
until a hot cupboard, leaving it to drain on paper to finish next white paper to
finish Transfer to clean white next day. day. Transfer to sheets sheets of c1ean
which has has draining. with sugar sugar which draining. Dust Dust the the c1usters
clusters of berries berries with the been rubbed through a very fine sieve, sieve,
and return them to the hot cupboard to dry off completely.' offcompletely.'
('Paddler') BARBOTEUR ('Padd.ler') for the the - Common French name for domestic
duck. (See DUCK.)

BARBADOS DEs BARBADES BARBADOS CREAM. CREAM. CRÈME cnirr,c DES - Liqueur made of
lemon, lemon, orange and peel, mace, mace, cinnamon, and citron citron peel,
cinnamon,
which was once a cloyes, sugar a fashionable cloves, sugar and and eau-de-vie,
which drink.

BARBAREA. BARBARÉE nARSARfE also called called herb herb of - also - This plant
piquant, rather St Barbara, yarrow, and rocket and yellow rocket - has a piquant,
flavour not unlike that s, and the same cress, and has has the not unlike that of
cres bitter flavour properties. It grows wild in damp and sandy anti-scorbutic
properties~ places. called land cress or American cress A variety variety of
barbarea, called (U.5. winter (U.S. winter cress) is cultivatedand cultivated and
eaten in salads. Barbarea can can be be prepared in in ail all the ways ways
recommended recornmended for cresso cress. In certain regions it is mixed with
spinach. spinach.
BARBARIN BARBARIN a fish fish of the mullet family. - French name for a

(U.S. squash) BARBARINE marrow (U.S. BARBARINE A variety variety of of marrow

squash) of -A various shapes and sizes. an elongated sizes. It has an elongated
shape, rather like a a cucumber, plain yellow or parti-coloured, sometimes
sometimes striped with green. The best barbarines are pale yellow, and and given
for marrows can be prepared according to the recipes given and and cucumbers.
cucumbers.

Barbel

BARBEL. BARBEAU, BARBILLON BARBTLLoN fish recognisable recognisable by - River fish

the snout, and the the barbels at the end of and at the corners of ofthe ofthe
jaws. In is found found in in ail all the rivers. In France, the the common barbel
is The southern barbel is found in the found in in the south of France, France, in
Alpes-Maritimes Pyr6n6es-Orientales. Alpes-Maritimes and in the Pyrénées-
Orientales. The bel is The flesh flesh of the is insipid, insipid, and and it it
has the bar barbel has too too many pleasant. The bones bones to be pleasant. The
fish fish feeds feeds on on the river bed bed and the river to be nibbles at at the
the fishermen's bait, bait, especially especially those those of of animal origin,
is fond fond of crickets origin, which are very much to its taste. It is and grass-
hoppers, and in the autumn rises to the in and grass-hoppers, the surface in their
pursuit. pursuit. Large barbel, found found in the Loire, are considered considered
the best, and roast. The The small may be and may be poached, braised, baked baked
or or roast. ones, usually called barbillons, are grilled or fried. Recipes are
grilled or fried. for be applied to U.S.A. The The soft for barbel can be to the
the catfish of U.S.A. barbel are roes of reputed to are delicate, but the ofbarbel
the hard roes are reputed be be poisonous. BoiJed variou sauces. BARBEAU BOUILLI
BoUILLI -Boiled barbel barbel with with various sauces. BARBEAU (see COURTPoach
Poach the the barbel barbel in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon IV IV (see
BOUILLON). BOUILLOI$. Drain boiled potDrain thoroughly. thoroughly. Garnish with
boiled atoe.s and fr.esh frssh parsley. Serve, as as recommended recommended in
individual recipes, recipes, with with melted Butter sauce, santce, melted butter
butter or or White White sauce, sauce, Butter Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce or
Caper Caper sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Barbel Barbel à t la bourguignonne.
bornguigDonne. BARBEAU À A LA r,c, BOURGUIGNONNE souncuIGNoNNE in the recipe as
described in recipe for for BrW Brill à d la bourguigbourgaig- Proceed as nonne
(see BRILL).
.
BARD. BARDER -- To a piece of of meat, To bard bard means to cover a to coyer
poultry, game or, more rarely, a large fish before braising it, rarely,alarge with
thin slices ofbacon string. of bacon or or salt salt or fresh pork, tied with
string. After cooking, the barding fat is removed. removed. Its main purpose is
meat, or or breast of poultry. of the meat, is to protect delicate delicate parts
of It is, is, however, however; customary customary to to serve serve roast game -
woodcock, quail, pheasant, fat or pheasant, partridge, etc. or bacon which etc. -
with the fat was used used for for barding.

pork fat BARDING fat bacon, or or pork fat bacon, n.mon -- Slices Slices of of fat
FAT. BARDE BARDING FAT. game, as (fresh or salted) as (fresh as weil well as and
game, enveloping poultry and salted) for enveloping
84 84
BARQUETTES
various cuts of meat, before they they are.braised, are braised, poached poached or
various
roasted. roasted. 1 for liningpdt4s liningpâtés cooked pie-cru st and Itt is also
used for cooked in pie-brust terrines. terrines.

BARIGOULE - Name for a mushroom mushroom which is also ca lied BARIGOULEcalled

and bourigoule in in the brigoule the south south of France. It is very brigoule
and It is good to eat.

given to stutfed say that the term terrn d à la barigoule, barigutle, given stuffed
artichokes, na me of the mushroom mushroom which is used in is derived from the
name the south-east south-east of France for filling artichokes. of France

(À LA) Sorne authors LA) BARIGOULE (A authors of cookery cookery books - Some

BAR-LE-DUC BAR-LE-DUC which is is famous for its - Town in Lorraine which

redcurrant redcurrant jams.
BARLEY; - One of of the most ancient BARLEY. ORGE ancient cultivated cultivated
cereals, oRGEwhich still exists in its original form on the shores of of the Red
original forrn and Caspian Seas. Seas. is poorer in gluten than wheat, and its
flour Barley grain is does not forrn formed with water. It is form an elastic
elastic paste when forrned therefore not suitable ingredient for as an an
ingredient for bread. bread. Barley therefore not suitable as (once a a staple
which is with wheat (once is generally mixed with bread, which food for is rarely
made nowadays. for agricultural labourers), is rarely made good keeping It has good
keeping qualities but is difficult to digest. (barley water) of the A infusion
(barley the most water) was wzn one one of A barley barley infusion medicines
prescribed by Hippocrates. Hippocrates. Barley water popular medicines (I! g. (l-!
20 g. is it, wash wash 20 is refreshing and and emollient. To prepare it,
emollient. To I litre in 1 tablespoons, 2 tablespoons) pearl barley, and boil in
(1| (1 i pints, generous quart) water water until cooked. Leave to stand for back
of a and press well well with with the back for a a short time, time, strain,
strain, and wooden spoon. spoon. A tisane, which is slightly slightly laxative, is
made in the proportion of 1 I litre (scant quart, I to 2 tablespoons to 1
tablespoons barley water to generous quart) water. generous is beneficial in in
feverish feverish This tisane tisane is water. This conditions. conditions. Barley
is used in cookery in the form of hulled barley and porridge pearl barley, pearl
barley, mainly used for creams, porridge mainly used for soups, soups, creams,
(bouillie), and (see MUTTON, garnish for (bouillie), ragoitts (see and as as
garnish for ragoûts Ragoût of Ragoitt of mutton with barley). flakes and and barley
flour are are used used to lighten cereal Barley flakes barley flour to lighten
produces malt (q.v.). germinated barley produces Artificially germinated diets.
Artificially D'oRGE -Cook 250 g. Barley sucRE D'ORGE Barley sugar sugar
(confection). SUCRE - Cook 250 (4| quarts, 5-! 5] quarts) (9 oz., li cups) hulled
barley in 5 litres (4-! oz.,l| water for for 5 hours. the liquid liquid (which
resembles white hours. Strain Strain the jelly) and previously cooked cooked to
jelly) and decant. Add sorne sugar, previously decant. Add some sugar, (l10"C.,
230°F.) soufr6 degree (110°C., soufflé 230"F.) to until to this liquid, and cook
until (150"C., 302°F.). sugar reaches reaches crack degree (150°C., sugar Pour onto
an 302"F.). Pour oiled marble slab (or oiled metal sheet) and when it begins to
cool, cut into long strips strips and twist. This is the original method of making
barley sugar sticks. are now now made from They are from drawn drawn sugar. prnrf
Consomm6 with pearl barley. CONsOMMÉ Consommé A L'ORGE r'oRcE PERLÉcoNsourrd À lN
g. (4 oz., Wash 100 generous -! oz.,generous barley in warrn warm water ] cup)
pearl barley (4* pints, add it to pints, 5-! pints) consommé to 2-! 2+ litres
litres (4-! 5| pints) and add consomm6 (meat a stalk of celery, and simmer slowly
for 2 hours. stock). Add a Cream of barley soup See SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS. - See
Hulled barley barley broth. nfcocrroN D'ORGE Hulled broth. DÉCOCTION D'oRcE MONDÉ
MoNDf - Wash (4 oz., g. (4 100 g. oz., generous -! hulled barley in warm warm
water, * cup) hulled (3 quarts, 7-! and soak soak in in 3-! pints) cold 3| litres
litres (3 and 7| pints) cold water for for an g. (4 hour. Add 25 g. teaspoons)
salt, 2 carrots, 1 onion studded @ teaspoons) a clove, 4 with a leeks and 4leeks
and 2 stalks celery. Simmer very very slowly for 3 3 hours, hours, and and strain.
slowly for strain. This This barley is most refreshing. broth is Mutton broth with
barley barley See SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS, - See Mutton broth.

Barnacles

and regions flie, bassin, jamble jamble and for example, regions of France, for
example, flie, of France, arapède. arapide. eaten raw, or with vinaigrette 1 ts
flesh is rather tough and is eaten Its dressing. dressing. Small limpets can be
prepared like mussels, while can be grilled, or the large ones are butter and
grilled, are often brushed with butter' en mate/ote, matelote, etc. etc. prepared à
d l'américaine, l'amiricaine, en
BERNACLE Bird of BARNACLE BARNACHE, BERNACLE BARNACL,E GOOSE. GOOSE. BARNAcI{E, -
Bird greyleg goose. goose. It passage resembling the greyleg It is is also also
called called oiepassage marine (sea goose) in France. marine Barnacle geese winter
on the coasts of Europe. Their Their flesh Barnacle is edible is the the same same
as as for is edible but but indigestible. Preparation Preparation is bustard
(q.v.).

joint of of mutton BARON French name of of a large joint - This is the French
comprising the The term is also comprising le and term is legs. The the sadd saddle
and the the two two legs. applied to to lamb. piece of beef: beef : a baron In
England, it is only used for a large piece used mostly U.S.A. the term is used of
beef, or double sirloin. In U.S.A. hindquarters (both legs and both loins) oflamb.
of lamb. for the hindquarters anecdote is is told about about baron baron or
sirloin of of The following anecdote fond of a hearty eater, was fond beef. King
Henry VIII, who was a a double loin roast beef. One day, delighted by the sight of
a it. The noble set before him, him, he he conferred knighthood upon it. has been
sanctioned by title bestowed bestowed on this piece of beef has on this is known
day as known to this day as sirloin sirloin or baron custom, and and the cut is of
beef. as a a roast, roast, and and someThe sirloin is generally prepared as The
sirloin is where the dish is is much In England, where times times cooked on a a
spit. In the dish pudding, which it is is served with Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding,
which is esteemed, it served with pan under under the made from from batter made
batter cooked cooked in in the the dripping pan joint. roasting joint. garnished
Barons of mutton or lamb are are also also roasted, roasted, garnished Barons of
mutton or lamb vegetables; or they can be served with their their own gravy, with
vegetabJes; and garnished with with watercress. and filled with with various
BARQUETTES BARQLIETTES Oval tartlet tartlet shells shells filled - Oval
compositions compositions before before cooking. cooking. They They can can be be
baked baked blind (empty) and and then then filled. a Barquettes are also used for
a Barquettes hors-d'euvre (q.v.) or a a small hors-d'œuvre TARTLETS. e ntr de. (For
more sweet sw eet barquettes, b ar que t t e s, see see T ARTLETS.) small small
entrée. ) ABRrcors -- Make I. BARQUETTES AUx ABRICOTS Apricot barquettes barquettes
1. sAReuerrEs AUX (9 oz., 2* g. (9 2f cups) sieved Flaky pastry (see DOUGH) sieved
Flaky DOUGH) with 250 250 g. I egg yolk, 150 flour, scant teaspoon salt, 21 2|
teaspoons sugar, 1 generous I cup) butter and and 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant g. (5 oz., generous1cuP) 1 water. l cup) "rrp) ($ inch) cut out
the paste to a a thickness thickness of 3 to 4 mm. (t Roll out pastry-cutter and
fluted oval line boat-shaped a fluted out oval pastry-cutter and line out with with
a boat-shaped tartlet tarti et tins tins with with the the ovals. ovals. Prick the
the bottom of the the paste to to prevent it rising ring baking. rising du during
baking. Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar.
85
BARNACLE. BERNICLE suRNrcrs BARNACLE. Common name name for for the the limpet, -
Common the mollusc with the conical shell that attaches itselfto itself to rocks on
the seashore. It is on is known known by by various names in in ditferent different
BARREL

Making ttes (Inr o us s e) Making barque barquettes (Larousse)

Stone Stone and and quarter quarter fresh fresh apricots, apricots, and and arrange
arrange in in the tartlets, tartlets, skin side side down. Bake Bake in a moderate
moderate oven oyen (180oC., (180°C., 350oF., Gas Mark Mark 4) 4) for about about 20
20 minutes. minutes. Take the the tartlets tartlets 350°F., Gas out of of the the
tins tins and cool them them on a wire cake tray. Spoon Spoon apricot apricot jam
jam into into them. them. Break Break the the apricot stones, stones, blanch blanch
the the kernels, kernels, and and put two two halves ha Ives on on each tartlet.
tarti et. Apricd barquettes II. sA,neuETrES BARQUETIES Arrx AUX ABRrcors ABRICOTS -
As in Apricot barquettes preceding puff pastry pastry instead instead of flaky
pastry. pastry. preceding recipe, recipe, using using puff Apricot à I'ancienne.
l'ancienne. BAReTJETTES BARQUElTES Aux AUX ABRJABRIApricot barquettes barquettes A
cors COTS A À L'ANcIENM L'ANCIENNE - Fill Fill flaky pastry pastry tartlets
tartlets with vanillavanillaflavoured tter cream Butter cream (see (see CREAMS).
CREAMS). Decorate Decorate with with halves halves flavoured .Ba
of of blanched blanched almonds almonds and and crvstallised crystallised cherries.
cherries.

(49| (49t gallons, gallons, 62 62 gallons), gallons), in in Cognac about 205 205
litres litres (45 gallons, 56 gallons), in Mdcon Mâcon about about 213 litres (47
gallons, gaJlons, 58| gal58t gallons), and in Nantes, 2l0litres 210 litres (46
gallons, 57t 571 gallons). Ions).

BARROT - French ivord word for for a a small small barrel barrel containing
containing anchovies; anchovies; the term term applies only to anchovy barrels.

BARSAC - Commune Commune in in the Gironde that has has given given its name name
to a fine white white Bordeaux Bordeaux wine. Barsac Barsac has has the right to
appellation Sauternes. Sauternes. (See BORDEALIX.) BORDEAUX.) the appellatrbn
BASELLA BASELLA flndian (lndian spinach). spinach). BASELLE - Edible plant, native
of tropical countries, countries, cultivated cultivated in some sorne parts of of
France. It of
is is prepared prepared in the the same way as spinach. spinach.

BASIL. BASIL. BAsILtc BASILIC - Plant Plant cultivated cultivated in in gardens

gardens for the sake of its fragrance. fragrance. There There are several several
varieties: varieties: sweet sweet basil, basil, the
Dcstl, bas il, which is is often often grown grown as as a a pot herb. herb. It'is
Itis used used in Provenca, together with with garlic, garlic, for for flavornng
flavouring pistou, pistou, a Provence, together popular popular soup soup in in
this this region. Basil once considered considered a a royal royal plant; plant;
only only the the soverergn soverelgn Basil was was once (basilats) (basileus)
could cut it, and even ev en then then only with a golden plant has has now now
come come into common common use. use. sickle. The plant
leaves which are leaves of ofwhich are dried dried and and used used as as a
condiment condiment in cookery; cookery; monk's monk 's basil, basil, which can can
be be similarly preserved; and bush and, bush

Basil
Savoury Savoury barquettes barquettes

BARREL. BARREL. BARIL BARIL - Small Small cask cask of of variable variable
capacity, capacity, usually usually 72 (l5~ gallons, gallons, l9it 19i gallons)
gallons) used used as as a a container container for for 72 litres litres (15f
brandy, vinegar, vinegar, oil, oil, anchovies, anchovies, herrings herrings or or
other other fish, fish, olives, olives, brandy, of wine wine in in Britain Britain
amounts amounts to to ll5 115 litres litres (25 (25 etc. A A barrel barrel of etc.
gallons, 31 gallons), gallons), in in Tuscany Tuscany 20 20 litres litres (4f (41
gallons, gallons, 5f 5t gallons, 3l gallons). gallons). BARRIQUE - Large Large cask
cask or or barrel barrel used used for for transporting transporting BARRIQUE
liquids in in France. France. Its Its capacity capacity varies varies in in
different different regions. regions. In In liquids Bordeaux Bordeaux and and in in
the the south south of of France France it it is is about about 225litres 225
litres 86 86 composed of offried cèpes andAnna and Anna potatoesin potatoes in
dariole dariole moulds moulds composed fried cCpes sprinkled with with chopped
chopped Bayonne Bayonne ham. ham. sprinkled BASQUAISE (A (À LA) LA) - Garnish
Garnish for for large large cuts cuts of of meat meat BASQUAISE
BASS BASS
BAS-ROND -- Term Term incorrectly incorrectly used used in in sorne some cookery
cookery books books BAS-ROND instead of of baron (q.v.). baron (q.v.). instead
BASS. BAR sAR -- This This fish, fish, which which is is also also called called
sea sea dace, dace, sea wolf sea wolf BASS. or sea perch abounds sea perch abounds
in in the the Mediterranean. Meditgrranean. It It is is also also found, found, or
in srnaller smaller numbers, numbers, in in the the Atlantic Atlantic Ocean. Ocean.
Bass Bass does does not not in normally go go beyond beyond the the English English
Channel, Channel, and and rarely rarely penepenenonnally trates into into the the
Baltic. Baltic. trates . Two species species are are known: known: the (sea wolf)
the common common bass bass (sea wolf) on on Two the Mediterranean Mediterranean
coast, coast, and and striped striped bass. Dass. The The common common the Dass is
is seen great deal seen a a great deal in in French French markets, markets, and
and is is recogrecogbass nisable by by its its silvery, grey-blue back silvery,
grey-blue back and and white white belly. belly. The The nisable bass of of the the
U.S.A., U.S.A., while while not prepared not exactly exactly the the sa same, is
prepared bass me, is in the the same gastronomes do same way. way. Sorne Some
gastronomes do not not admit admit that that the the in flesh of particular
delicacy, of the bass bass has any any particular delicacy, but but many many
people people flesh like it. it. like prepare. Clean To prepare. fish through Clean
the the fish gills and through the the gills and through through a a To light
incision incision.made on the the belly. belly. Do Do not not scale scale the the
bass bass if if it it is is made on light poached, but scale be poached, it,
without scale it, without breaking breaking the the skin, if it skin, if it is is
to be to be be braised, braised, fried grilled. Wash fried or or grilled. Wash and
and dry dry the the fish. fish. to a few few light light incisions on part of on
the the fleshy fleshy part of the the back, back, Make a it along slit it along the
the backbone, or or cut cut into into unifonn-sized pieces; uniform-sized pieces;
proceed according to to the the recipe recipe cbosen chosen. proceed .
pieces. Cook Cut the the bass bassinto into unifonn uniform pieces. Cookas
asdescribed described in inthe the Cut recipe for (see BRILL). for Curried Curuied
fillets ofbrill brill(see BRILL). recipe fillets of Bass Dugléré. Dugl6r6. BAR nen
DUGLÉRÉ oucr,6nf- - Scale Scale aabass bass weighing weighingabout about Bass (1*
lb.). Cut g.(li-Ib.). 750 g. pieces of Cut into intopieces ofequal equal size.
size. Melt Meltsorne some butter butter 750 inaasauté pan, and saut6 pan, andadd
add1 1tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion, onion,44peeled, in peeled,
seededandchopped and chopped tomatoes, tomatoes,1Itablespoon tablespoon
coarselychopped coarselychopped seeded parsley, a quarter of asprig sprig of of
thyrne, pinch thyme, quarter of aabay bayleaf, leaf,and andaapinch parsley, garlic.
Put ofgrated Put the bass on the bass on this thisfoundation, foundation,season,
and season, and of grated garlic. moisten with pint, i3cup) with It 1+dl. dl.(t
cup) dry dry white white wine. wine. Bring Bring to to moisten $ pint, pan, and the
boil, boil, coyer cover the the pan, and transfer it to transfer it to the theoyen,
oven,cooking cooking the for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Drain piecesof
Drain the the pieces of bass bassand arrange and arrange for them on on aa dish
dish in in the fish. theshape shape of of the the fish. them Remove the the thyme
thyme and and bay pan, add bay leaf leaf from from the g. thepan, add 60 Remove 60
g. (2! oz., (3 tablespoons) oz., 1 cup) butter butter and and 2 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 tablespoons) (2t * cup) (see SAUCE) VeloutC sauce sauce (see SAUCE)
made made of of fish fish stock. Velouté stock. Pour Pour the the sauce over over
the fish and the fish and sprinkle parsley. sprinkle with with chopped chopped
parsley. sauce Alternatively, instead instead ofusing of using velouté velouti
sauce, sauce, thicken with aa Alternatively, thicken with tablespoon of kneaded
butter, of kneaded butter, or tablespoon or with with j tablespoon tablespoon Bour
flour mixed with with 2 (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 mixed
tablespoons) water; water; this this last last is is called à dlameuniire. caUed la
meunière. Fillets of of bass. bass. FILETS DE BAR BAR -- Bass FrLErs DE Fillets
prepared Bass is is not not often often prepared in fillets, fillets, but but when
when this in this method method is is adopted, adopted, the the fillets fillets
should should be skinned skinned and and weil be given for well trimmed. trimmed.
Ali All the the recipes recipes given for whole whole given for (U.S. porgy well as
bass, as as weil as those those given for bream bass, porgy or bream (U.S. or
scup), scup), mullet or or river river trou muilet t, can trout, can be be applied
applied to to fillets fillets of of bass. bass.So So can can given for recipes
given recipes for fresh fresh cod, whiting, mackerel mackerel and, generally, cod,
whiting, and, generally, for ail all sea for fish. sea fish. Fried bass. bass. BAR
FRrr -- This Fried BAR FRIT This method method is is suitable for smallsuitable for
smallsize size bass. bass. Scale Scale the the fish, fish, make make a a few few
slits, and soak it in slits, and soak it in salted salted milk which milk . Dredge
which has has been been boiled get cold boiled and and allowed allowed to to get
cold. Dredge with with Bour flour and and deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling oil.
sizzling oil. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, sprinkle garnish witb sprinkle with with fine
fine salt, salt, and and garnisb with fried fried parsley and . parsley and slices
lemon. slices of of lemon When When no no small are available, small bass bass are
available, large large fish, fish, eut cut into into slices slices or or steaks,
prepared in steaks, can can be be prepared in the the same same way. way. Bass au
gratin BAR Bass au gratin. BAR AU AU GRATIN GRATTN -- This This metbod method is is
mostly mostly applied applied to to fillets fillets of of bass. bass. Proceed
Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for gratin (see (see
SOLE). for Sole Sole au au gratin SOLE).

Bass

Boiled or poached bass or poacbed bass with with various various sauces. Boiled
sauoes. BAR BAR BOUILLI BourLLr into Court-bouillon III (see (see COURTBOUILLON).
BOUILLON). As soon as it boils, draw the pan to to the edge edge of of the burner,
and poach, simmering simmering lightly. Drain the bass, and and garnish with fresh
parsley. garnish Serve with melted butter, or with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce or
Serve or any any (see SAUCE). other sauce recommended recommended for boiled fisb
fish (see SAUCE). poached fish, Boiled all poached Boiled bass, bass, like ail
fish, is is served served with with steamed or boiled potatoes. Braised bass witb
with various sauces garnishes. BAR sauoes and and garnisbes. sAR BRAISÉ nRArsf bas
s, and and spread the inside inside with a a large piece of - Clean the bass,
butter which which has has been been kneaded kneaded with parsley and with chopped
chopped parsley and pui it in pepper. Season seasoned with salt and pepper.
outside. Put Season the thJoutside. in a fish kettle on a foundation of sbredded
ions shredded carrots and and on onions lightly Iightly fried in butter. Add
(q.v.). Moisten Add a a bouquet garni (q.v.). with with dry dry white wine; for a
bass weighing 1 (2f lb.) use 3 I kg. (2i 3 dl. (} (t pint, pint, lf li cups) cups)
wine. wine. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons)
melted butter. butter. Bring to to the boil, then transfer the the fish kettle
kettle to the oyen oven and cook, uncovered, uncoverecl, for 25 25 to to 30 30
minutes, basting basting frequently. frequently. . minutes, Drain Drain the the
bass and arrange braising arrange on a dish. Reduce the braising fish. Add the
gamish. liquor, add butter, and pour over the fish. garnish. Serve with Espagnole
sauce (made with fish stock) or with Serve AlI gamishes recommended for Velouté
(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). All Velouti garnishes recommended fish are suitable for
bass (see (see BRILL, BRILL, TURlarge braised fish SALMON). BOT, SALMON). bass with
witbvarious FROID - Cook the fish, fish, Cold bass various sauces. BAR FRorD whole
or in large large pieces, in Court-bouillon (see COURTwhole Court-bouillon III (see
COURTBOUILLON). Allow Allow to to cool cool in in the the liquor. Iiquor. Drain,
Drain, and BOUILLOI$. garnish garnish with fresh parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with
a a cold sauce. sauce. bass can also be prepared by following one Cold bass one of
the recipes given given for salmon and salmon trout. Cooked in courtrecipes
Cookd,in bouillon, it can can also also be be served served with with the garnishes
garnishes used used for for large bouillon,it cold fish, fish, such su ch as hard-
boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, stuffed artichoke articboke hearts, hearts, cold
lettuce hearts, hearts, macidoines macédoines of of vegetables, vegetables, etc.
etc. lettuce Curried bass bass ià I'indienne. l'indienne. BAR AU AU cuRRrE. CURRIE,
A À r'lNorENNs L'INDIENNE Curied pocn6 - Put the bass ou pocHÉ OU -

Double grill for Double grill for small small fish fish

Grilled bass bass witb with various various sauces. sauces. BAR sAR GRILLÉ cRrr,r"6
-- This This method method is applied to bass of of medium size. Scale the to bass
size. Scale the fish, fish, make make a a few few shallow incisions, season,
season, dredge dredge with with flour, flour, brush brush with with oil oil or
melted butter, grill on or melted butter, and and grill a moderate on a moderate
heat. heat. Turn the bass once during cooking, the bass cooking, and and baste
baste with with oi! once during oil or or melted melted butter from from time time
to to time. time. Gamish parsley, and Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley, and
surround surround witb with slices slices of of decoratively decoratively eut cut
lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with Maitre Malte d'hôtel dh\tel buller, butter,
Anchovy buller, (see BUTTER), butter, Ravigote Ravigote buller butter (see BUTTER),
or or one one of of the special . grilled fish special sauces sauces recommended
recommended for for grilled fish. Bass Bass à i la la livornaise. livornaise. BAR
nln À A LA LA LlVORNAISE LrvoRNAnn -- This This metbod method is is suitable for
for small-size bass. Scale Scale 4 4 bass, put small-size bass. bass, season, and
put season, and them in them in a a well-buttered well-buttered or or oiled oiled
fireproof fireproof dish dish on a foundation foundation on a t, scant consisting
of pint, (see dl. (1 Tomato fondue 2 dl. of 2 cup) Tomato scant cup) $ pin fon&te
(see FONDUE) ion, and plenty of FONDUE) mixed mixed with with plenty of chopped
chopped on onion, and flavoured with a pinch of a pinch of pounded garlic. Scatter
breadcrumbs breadcrumbs on on top, top, sprinkle with oil, and cook oil, and
sprinkle with cook in the in the oyen oven for for about about 15 15 minutes.
minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped 1?arsley parsley before before
serving. serving.

87 8',1
BASTE BASTE
Bass I à la la meunibre. meUllière. sAR BAR A À rA LA l{suminr MEUNIÈRESuitable for
for small5mallBass - Suitable make a few few incisions, Incisions, sprinkle with
with bass. Scale them, them, make size bass. /lour, and and cook cook in in a
frying frying pan pan in in butter. butter. Use Use an oval-shaped ovaJ-shaped
flour, pan, if if possible. possible. pan, When the the fish fish is is cooked
cooked and golden on both both sides, place place When a dish dish and sprinkle
sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley parsley and a few few drops drops on a
of lemon lemon juice. juice. of Heat the butter butter left in in the pan pan until
it browns, browns, adding adding more if if necessary, necessary, and pour it over
the the fish. Bass Bass prepared prepared more this way may may be be served with
various various garnishes garnishes (see (sec SOLE, SOLE, in this meunière). Sole
meuniire). Bass I à la portugaise portugaise I. 1. n.m BAR A ,\ L,c. LA ponrucAlsE
PORTUGAISE - Scale Scale a bass bass Bass weighing about 300-400 300-400 g. (t
(ilb.). lightly along along the back, lb.). Slit lightly weighing buttered pan.
pan. season, and put into a buttered quantities of white white wine and
concentrated fish Boil equal quantities afume/ (q.v.), (q.v.), pour pour over over
the fish, and cook in stock down to afumet pan for for 15 15 minutes. minutes.
Drain the the bass, put in in a the covered pan fueproof dish, and surround
surround with a border border of thick Tomato fireproof fondue (sec FONDUE). Boil
Boil down down the the pan juices, juices, add add 3 3 (see FONDUE). fondue
tablespoons (scant (scant I J cup) cup) Veloutd Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE)
based tablespoons fJsh stock and some sorne butter, butter, and pour pour it over
over the bass. on fish Glaze in a a very very hot hot oven, oyen, and and sprinkle
with with chopped Glazn in parsley before serving. serving. ponrucAlsE portugaise
Il. BAR A À L.c, LA PORTCGAISE - Proceed Proceed as Bass à II. sAR i la portugaise
described for Bass Bass Dugliri Dugléré (but (but leaving leaving the the fish fish
whole). described for Place in a fireproof dish. Boil down the pan juices, to which
butter has has been been added, pour pour over ovcr the the fish, fish, sprinkle
sorne sprinkle some butter glaze in a very with breadcrumbs, and very hot hot oven.
oyen. and glaze with pnowNqALE - Scale the BAR A ,\ rn LA PROVENÇALE provençale.
san la provengale. Bass à la bass, make a few shallow flour, and and fry dredge
with with flour, a few shallow slits, slits, dredge bass, oil. briskly in oiL When
cooked and put the sides, put on both sides, and golden brown on When sauce (see
fish in in a fireproof dish, Provençale sauce wfth Provengale dish, cover cover
with a fireproof fish SAUCE), sprinkle brcadcrumbs and and brown and oil, oil, and
with breadcrumbs sprinkle with in a hot oyen a few few minutes. for a a hot oven
for SprinkJe parsley before serving. serving. with chopped parsley Sprinkle with
garnishes. BAR BAR BRAIS6 BRAISÉ Stuffed variou garnishes. bass with with variollS
braised bass Strffed braised FARCI bass with forcemeats special forcemeats with one
one of of the the special a bass FARcr - Stuff Stuff a above. recommended for bove.
it as as described described a fish. Braise Braise it large fish. for large
BÂTONNETS or or BATONS BÂTONS - Various Various preparations preparations shaped
shaped BATONhIETS the form of of little little sticks. sticks. in the BÂTONNETS
ALlx AUX AMANDES AMANDES - Fancy Fancy Almond bfltonnets. bâtonnets. sAroNNETs
A}nond biscuits (cookies), (cookies), which come into into the the category of of
petits petits biscuits fours. fours. Pound 250 250 e. g. O (9 oz., oz., l| li cups)
cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds in in a mortar mortar Pound 250 g. g. (9 (9
oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine hne sugar. sugar. Turn into into a bowl
bowl with 250 and mix mix witn with f 3 egg whites and 1 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant scant f t rum. Blend Blend thoroughly thoroughly into a smooth
smooth paste paste and and roll roI! out cup) rum. 2 cm. Q (l inch) inch) thick
thick on on a marble marble slab siab lightly lightly dusted dusted with with
flour. fiOUL 2 Cut the the paste paste into strips 8 cm. (3 inches) inches) wide,
and cut eut the the Cut cm. (| into bdtonnets,2 bâtonnets, 2 cm. (i inch) wide.
wide. Dip Dip them them into into strips into strips beaten egg white then into
crystallised sugar. Brush lightly beaten wilh butter, butter, sprinkle sprinkle
with flour, and bake the the baking trays with bâtonnets in a moderate oven oyen
(180'C., (I80°e., 350'F., 350°F., Gas Mark 4). bdtonnets Bfltom BâtollS with
vanilla vallilla icing. king. rAroNs BÂTONS cr,lcfs GLACÉS A ,\ rn LA vlmns VANILLE
Pound Pound 250 g. (9 o2.,lfr OZ., li cups) cups) blanched almonds with 250 g. g.
(9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar in a mortar. mortar.
Turn Turn into a basin basm and add 3 3 egg egg whites whites and and f 1teaspoon
teaspoon vanilla vanilla extract. ex tract. Blend Blend the and lightly floured
ftoured marble marble mixture thoroughly and roll out on a lightly (} nch) thick
and about slab until the paste is I 1 cm. <i about 15 15 cm' cm. (6 (6 inches)
inches) wide. widc. Coat with with a a layer of vanilla-flavoured vanilla-/lavoured
Royal Royal icing (seeICING). (see ICING). Cut into sticks 2 cm. (f, inch) wide'
wide. Brush Brush a a sticks 2 icing baking baking tray with melted melted butter,
butter, sprinkle sprinkle with flour, ftour, and bake bake the bâtons· in a
moderate oven oyen (180'C., (180°e., 350oF., 350"F., Gas Mark 4).
thebdtons.iqamoderate

as in the recipe for Almond bdtonnets, using 250 g. Almond bâtonne/s, g. (9 oz.,
oz., li recipe for oz., generous cup) fine sugar, 200 g. cups) almonds, 250 g. (9
OZ., g.

Chocolate Chocolate bfltonnets. bâtonnets. sAroNNErs BÂTONNETS AU AU cHocot,lr

CHOCOLAT - Proceed

ll

(7 (7

(l o2.,2 oz.,lf 25 g., tablespoons) vanillaOZ., 11 cups) cups) coc<ia, cocoa, 25

g., (1 OZ., 2 tablespoons) flavoured whites. /lavoured sugar, 3 egg whites. cumin
to cUMIN Cumin CumiD bfitonnets. bâtonnets. sAroNl.IETs S,\TONNETS AU AU CUMIN Add
cumin - Add Short pastry paslry 1/ II (see DOUGH), when when rolling it it out. Cut
into mto a buttered roll them, on a small sticks, sticks, roll small them, place
place on buttered baking tray, oven (200'C., brush with egg, egg, and bake in a
moderately hot oyen (200°C., ü 400'F., 400 F., Gas Mark 6). AvELINES - These Aux
AVELINES sAroNNETs AUX Hazelnut bfltonnets. BÂTONNETS Hazelnut bâtonnets.
biltunnets, replacing as Almond way as are the same Almond bâtonnets, in the same
way are made made in and have been almonds haze/nuts which which have been blanched
blanched and with hazelnuts almonds with with kirsch. the mixture with dried in the
the oyen. oven. Flavour the dried in

BASTE. JUTER -- To braising stock roasting or stock over pour roasting or braising
To pour a to keep it moist during cooking. in order to a joint in BAT·culinary term
for tail offish. of fish. The length offish of fish BAT - French culinary is is
measured from from eye eye to to tail. BAT. provided with mammal provided with BAT.
CHAUVE-SOURIS cn,c,uvE-souRrs Small mammal - Small membranous The meat meat is
membranous wings wings which which enable enable it it to to /ly. fly. The esteemcd
in China. in certain oriental countries, notably notably in esteemed in BA-T A-
CLk"ll have been been invented dessert said to bave said to BA-TA-CLAN - Pastry
dessert pastry-cook. It is still by It is still Parisian pastry-cook. celebrated
Parisian Lacam, the the celebrated by Lacam, made Paris cake cake shops. shops. in
high-c1ass made in high-class Paris almonds in in Pound 250 li cups) freshly
blanched (9 oz., g. (9 blanched almonds 250 g. oz.,l| a by one; one; add 9 one by 9
eggs, and add eggs, one Turn into into a a bowl, bowl, aod mortar. Turn a mortar.
g. (13 (13 oz., mix 11: cups) Add 375 cups) fine fine sugar flavoured mix weil.
well. Add 375 g. oz.,lt sugar ftavoured g. (6 tabJespoons, 125 g. with rum, 125
cup) rum, I dl. scant 1 vanilla, l dl. (6 tablespoons, scant with vanilla, * cup)
quite (4 1 cup) (4 oz., until quite and mix mix thoroughly flour, and thoroughly
until cup) sieved o2.,1 sieved /lour, smooth. smooth. Pour and bake bake in in a a
fluted edges with fluted edges and into a a sballow tin with shallow tin Pour into
and coyer cover moderate leave to cool, and to cool, cooked, leave When cooked,
moderate oYen. oven. When with icing. vanilla icing. with vanilla
(see SAUCE). BÂTARDE given to SAUCE). Butter sauce sauce J I (sec to Buller Name
givcn BATARDE -- Name

ü (150'C., 302 ECLAIR.) 302'F.). cooked to crack dcgree F.). (See ÉCLAIR.) degree
(lsoac., RoYALrx (hot hors-d'oeuvre). hors-d'oeuwe). BÂTONS sAroNs ROYAUX bitons
(hot Royal Royal bâtons - Roll rectangles. cut into small rectangles. a piece of of
shortcrust paste and cut out out a with Chicken Chicken and partridge each with
middle of each partridge forceFill Fill the the middle force(see FORCEMEAT). ends
each piece, sealing the ends meat (see FORCEMEAT). Roll each fried parsley. weil.
well. Deep-fry in smoking smoking hot fat. Garnish with fried

made from DE JACOB sAroNs DE Cakes made JAcoB bfitom. BÂTONS Jacob's Jacob's
bâtons. - Cakes (see DOUGH) paste (see Chou Chou pasœ DOUGH) in the shape of little
hollow sticks sugar pastry cream, and coated on top with sugar filled with French
French pastry

BAT AVlA -- Variety in summer in season summer hearted lelluce lettuce in season in
Variety of of hearted BATAVIA or winter. or winter.
glass or metal conconBATEAUX or metal name for for china, china, glass French name
BATEAUX - French tainers They are for serving cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. They
are usually usually used for serving cold tainers used boat-shaped, name. hence
their their name. boat-shaped, hence
88 88

pArs A FRIRE Frying balter batter 1 I rnns -- Fryiog FOR FRYING. FRYING. PÂTÉ,\
BATTERS FOR (12 OZ., 'Sift 350 g. (12 flour into into a a (Car0me's recipe) cups)
flour 350 g. o2.,3 (Carème's 3 cups) - 'Sift (2 oz., g. (2 50 g. oz., in which
which 50 warmed water in mix with sligbtly bowl, bowl, mix slightly warmed paste,
free from free from a soft melted. Stir to a soft paste, has been been me/ted. Stir
to butter has ;\* cup) butter (3 ta tablespoons) and 2 ta a pinch of salt salt and
tablespoons lumps. Add a blespoons (3 blespoons) whites. egg whites. in 2 fold in 2
stiffiy and fold well, and stiffiy whisked egg brandy, brandy, stir stir weil, Use
at at once.' once.' Use (9 oz., I g. (9 flour, 1 cups) sifted sifted flour, 250 g.
oz.,2f Mix 250 Frying batter lltr- Mix Frying 2! cups) (| pint, pint, seant pint, t
2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) beer, beer, 2 l] dl. dl. (i oil, If tablespoon tablespoon
oil, 3 cup) $ pint, into a a smooth smooth brandy into a tablespoon tablespoon
brandy and a warm water water and cup) cup) warm in using, fold fold in pinch of
fine salt. Just before using, a pinch of fine salt. Just adding a batter, batter,
adding whites. egg whites. whisked egg 2 2 stiffiy stiffiy whisked Mix (for fruit
glazed in the oven)oven) - Mix fruit fritters fritters glazed in the batter (for
Frying baller Frying g. 250 g. previous recipe, recipe, using using 250 in the as
dcscribed described in the previous the batter as the batter (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) (9 OZ., 2 tablespoons flour, 2 tablespoons (3 cups) sifted sifted
flour, o2.,2| (9 2! cups) (+ pint, (+ pint, pint, scant pint, t] cup) scant 2 dl.
dl. (t cup) beer, beer, 2 1+ dl. dl. (i melted butter, butter, 1+ melted pinch of a
pinch of I tablespoon brandy, a egg, 1 tablespoon brandy, cup) water, one one whole
whole egg, cup) water, pinch of and a a pinch of salt. salt. sugar sugar and

formal occasion and Chabot. Phot. /\rico!as) Nicolas) Buffet set set out out ror
for a a formaI occasion(Potel Chabot. Phof. Buffe! (Potet wu!
CREAM BAVARIAN BA V ARIAN CREAM
After After mixing, mixing, keep in a warm place to ferment. Just before using,
whisk the batter. glaze fruit fritters, drain after frying, place on a To glaze a
metal icing sugar, sprinkled with with icing sheet which which has has been been
lightly lightly sprinkled sheet oyen. and set in a hot oven. Frnng The batter
should Fryiog batter (for vegetable fritters) - The be prepared at least an hour
before use. g. (9 oz., 2i cups) sifted flour with 4 tablespoons Mix 250 g. oz.,2f
(5 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted butter, 2 whole eggs, a good pinch of a batter.
salt, and enough water to make not too thick a Frnng Frying batter (for (for meat
and fisb fish fritters) - Put 250 g. (9 oz., 2i cups) sifted flour into a a bowl.
bowl. Make a 2| a weil well in in the centre centre (5 tablespoons) oil or melted
and put into it 4 tablespoons (5 butter, 4 dl. (* (à- pint, scant 2 cups) slightly
butter,4 slightly warmed water, and a good pinch of salt. wood en spoon. spoon.
well with a wooden salt. Mix weil Just before using, fold in 4 stiffiy stiffy
whisked egg whites. (12o2.,3 Frying batter (i Frying (à la provengate) provençale)
'Mix 350 g. (l20z., 3 cups) -'Mix (5 tablespoons) Aix yolks,4 egg yolks, 4
tablespoons sieved flour, 2 egg tablespoons (5 oil, and enough enough cold water to
make make a soft paste. Add a small pinch of salt, fold in 2 2 stiffiy salt, and
and fold stifry whisked egg egg whites. Use (Car6me's recipe). at once.' (Carême's
Batters (sweet) - See DOUGH.
BA VAROIS BAvARoIs - Cold sweet once known Traiti in his his Traité fromage
bavarois, the name name Carême Car€me gives it in fromage des entremets de douceur.
given to it by a The name bavarois a French chef who bavarois was given practised
practised his art in a stately stately home in Bavaria. This not be confused This
dish, consistency, should be confused dish, of solid should not solid consistency,
liquid preparation known as the with the liquid known as the bavaroise (q.v.),
which used to be called crème crDme bavaroise, and, according to which used
culinary historians, was invented in Bavaria towards the end culinary historians,
of the seventeenth century. quite differently differently The bavarois was prepared
quite bavarois in in past days days was present-day methods; the mixture mixture
was bound only with from pre,sent-day clarified some modern clarified isinglass,
not with with egg yolks, as used in sorne reClpes. recipes.

hours in the iced water, water, COyer chill for 2 hours with white paper, and chili
cover with refrigerator, or on crushed ice. refrigerator, it wipe it hbt water,
wipe dip the mould in hot the bavarois, dipthe To loosen tlie dry, and turn turn
into a dish. flayoured wlth wrth for bavarois used for bavarois flavoured The same
recipe may be used (anisette, chocolate, tea, brandies coffee, chocolate, brandies
and various liqueurs (anisette,

BA V ARIAN CREAM. BAVARIAN CREAM. as as

Armagnac, Calvados, fine Champagne Champagne brandy, Calvados, Curaçao, Curagao,

fine Armagnac, kirsch, kummel, kummel; rum, etc.), lemon, tangerine, orange,
praline of burnt almond, hazelnuts, hazelnuts, etc. A LA r.l CÉVENOLEcfvrNors
BAvARoIs À cream i la la cévenole. c6venole. BAVAROIS Bavarian cre am à Fill with a
a ueam. FiII Bavarian cream. Coat a mould with layer of with a layer of Basic
Bavarian glacds, pur6e of marrons glacés, mixture of a purée of marrons mixture of
this this cream cream and and a refrigerator. flavoured with kirsch. Chill in the
refrigerator. decorate with and decorate Turn'out a dish, dish, and Turn . out the
the bavarois bavarois onto onto a (see CREAMS). with marrons Surround with
Chantilly cream CREAMS). Surround Chantilly cream (see glacis. glacés. Coat a A LA
r,c, CRÉOLE cRforn -- Coa Bavarian cream à BAVARoIS Bavarian VAROIS À ta A la
créole. cr6ole. BA of alternate layers of with sweet mould with sweet almond oil
and fill it with alternate rum-flavoured and pineapple-flavoured Basic Basic
Bavarian rum-flavoured and pineapple-flavoured cream) mixed mixed with with a
salpicon (q.v.) ofbananas cream, of bananas steeped in rum. (see Turn out with
Chantilly cream (see out onto onto a a dish, dish, decorate decorate with Chantilly
cream Turn and sprinkle sprinkle with a pastry-bag, and CREAMS) piped through
through a blanched, shredded pistachio nuts. blanched, A LA l.l NORMANDE NoRMANDE
Bavarian cream à i la normande. BA slvARots Bavarian VAROIS À Line a a mould mould
with with a layer of of Calvados-flavoured Calvados-flavoured Basic Line a layer
(see SAUCE) sauce (see cream, fill fill with with thick thick Apple Apple sauce
Bavarian cream, gelatine which has been dissolved in water. whisked with gelatine
water. whisked Turn out with apple apple quarters out on on a a dish dish and and
surround Turn surround with peeled, cooked Top with whipped cooked in syrup, and
weil wbll drained. Top peeled, cream.

Bavarian cream, cream, after after Carême Car€me Bavarian

Bavarian cream cream mould

The following inc\ude include severa] several of Carême's Car0me's recipes. g.

VAROISÀ - Blend 500 g. Basic Bavarian BAvARoIS A LA ra CRÈME cniwBavarian cream. BA
(18 oz., yolks in (18 in a a small small oz., 2! 2f cups) 16 egg egg yolks cups)
fine fine sugar sugar and and 16 pinch of salt. pan over low sauce When the
saucepan salt. When low heat, heat, adding a a pinch (If; pints, mixture quite
smooth mixture is I litre litre (l~ is quite with ] moisten with smooth moisten
quart) milk which has generous quart) boiled and and has been been previously
boiled (l oz.) gelatine g. (1 gelatine which flavoured with a vanilla bean. Add 25
g. has has been been dissolved until the the Keep stirring dissolved in in cold
cold water. water. Keep stirring until mixture is not boil. is thick do not thick
enough to coat coat the the spoon; spoon; do enough to Transfer Transfer to a a
bowl and leave to cool, frequently fanning it to help the process. process. (lf
pints, As soon as the mixture in 1 I litre (I~ mixture begins to set, set, fold in
(4 oz., g. (4 generous quart) stiffiy whipped cream ~ cup) oz.,1",rp) cream and and
100 g. finesugar. . fine sugar. Pour the bavarois into a mould which has been
rinsed with

(CarGme). FROMAGE parfait amour FRoMAGE amour (Carême). Bavarian Bavarian cream
cream au au parfait peel of 'Shred half a half the the peel of a - 'Shred shredded
lemon, lemon very finely. Boil 2 cups milk, add the the shredded (8 oz., g. (8 I
cup) Leave to cup) sugar. sugar. Leave to 6 and 225 225 g. oz., 1 6 crushed crushed
cloves cloves and infuse for an and strain through a a muslin cloth cloth into a
infuse an hour, hour, and a (l oz.) g. (1 and clarified clarified isinbasin. basin.
Add Add 25 25 g. oz.) slightly slightly warmed and glass, and basin glass, and a a
few few drops drops of of cochineal cochineal essence. Put Put the the basin a bowl
As soon as as the the mixture mixture begins to to set, fold into a bowl of of ice.
As set, fold in whipped cream.' in (Car0me). FROMAGE pistachio nuts FRoMAGE
Bavarian Bavarian cream cream witb with pistachio nuts (Carême). 'Shell about
pisBAVARoIS AUX 100 choice choice pisBAVAROIS AItx NOIX NoD( VERTES vERTEs --
'Shell about 100 pound them in a a mortar, mortar, and and moisten moisten with
with a a tachio tachio nuts, nuts, pound them in le water from time litt little to
prevent them them turning oily. oily. time to to time to (8 oz., g. (8 I cup)
cream. Put Dissolve 225 225 g. cup) sugar in in 2 2 cups cups cream. Put the the
oz., 1 pounded nuts nuts into a bowl, and add add the cream, a a little little at
at a a into a bowl, and the cream, a time, Leave for for an an hour, hour, and and
strain through a well. Leave time, stirring weiL strain through fine fine sieve.
sieve. (l oz.) g. (1 Add warm clarified clarified isinglass isinglass which Add 25
25 g. oz.) slightly slightly warm mixture into into a has has been been dissolved
in a a !ittle little water. water. Pour Pour the the mixture a dissolved in place
on ice mould shed ice mould or a medium-sized terrine, terrine, and and place
crushed or a on cru (with a for 15 minutes. a large large silver if posfor 15
minutes. Stir silver spoon, spoon, if well, (with Stir weil, sible) As soon as it
it begins sible) and and stir again from from time to to time. time. As soon as
stir again to a smooth-flowing is mixture is to set, all the until a smooth-flowing
mixture set, stir stir ail the time time until achieved. achieved. Add a httle
little at at a a time, until the time, until Add whipped whipped cream, cream, a
the bavarois bavarois has has a a velvety texture. Keep on on crushed Keep crushed
ice ice for for an an hour hour and before turning turning and a a half before out
out onto onto a a dish. dish.
pARFArr AMOUR AMoUR BAVAROIS AU PARFAIT BAvARors AU

89
Duck a/sacienm' (Phol. ico/as) (Phot. N Drtck à/' Nicolas) d I'alsacienne
BAVARIAN CREAM BA VARIAN CREAM

Bavarian cream cream made made with fruit fruit (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Bavarian

90
BAYONNE BAYONNE
Bavarian Bavarian cream cream aux roses roses (Car0me). (Carême). FRoMAGE FROMAGE
BAVARoIS BA VAROIS RosBs ROSES - 'Strip the the petals petaIs ofl off about 30
freshly freshly picked with a pinch of roses, and put put them, them,with of
cochineal grains, into roses, and 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., I 1 cup) cup) clarified
clarified boiling boiling sugar sugar syrup. Cover, Coyer, and 225 add 25 when it
it has has become become just just warm, add 25 g. g. (l (l oz.) isinglass.
isinglass. when Strain the the mixture mixture through muslin into a bowl, and when
it Strain begins to set, fold in whipped cream.' begins Bavarian fruit cream.
BAVARoIs BAVAROIS ALrx AUX FRUITS - Put into a Bavarian pint,2f, bowl 5 dl. (scant
bowl5 (scant pint, pint, 2f 2i cups) fruit fruit pur6e, purée, 5 dl. (scant pint,
2i (l oz.) cups) cups) heavy heavy (30") (30°) syrup, syrllp, thejuice thejuice of
of31emons, 25 g. (l and25 3 lemons, and gelatine gelatine which which has has been
been dissolved dissolved in a little water water and strained through muslin.
through (scant pint, pint, 2i 2l cups) cups) whipped weIl, and add I + litre (scant
Blend well, cream. Pour Pour into a mould mould which has been coated with sweet
cream. rinsed in ice water) and and leave to set for about almond oil (or rinsed 1+
hours. l| (CarOme). FROMAGE BAvAFRoMAcE BAVAMocha coffee Bavarian cream (Carême).
ROIS AU cnr6 CAFÉ Mor,c, MOKA1+ cups) mocha coffee oz.,l| Rors - 'Put 175 g. (6
oz., a small a moderate fire, fire, heat on on a small saucepan, and heat beans
into a stirring constantly constantly until until they acquire a a reddish-yellow
reddish-yellow they acquire stirring is complete as as the as soon the beans become
colour. Roasting is soon as oily. 'Drop them into a 3 cups boiling milk, a basin
containing containing 3 coyer, and leave until the milk is just warm. Strain
through through cover, (l g. (l a 225 g. (8 oz., 25 g. and 25 a fine clotho I cup)
sieved sugar and cloth. Add Add225 oz., 1 oz.) isinglass. Blend te smooth, and
strain again. quite again. Blend until qui 'When the mixture and cream, and mixture
begins to set, set, add whipped cream, pour into a fully set.' set.' a mould.
mould. Place on on crushed ice until fully Strawberry Rub Aux FRAISES FRAISES --
Rub BAvARoIs AUX cresm. BAVAROIS Strawberry Bavarian cream. 2+ pulp through cup)
strawberry through 2| dl. dl. (scant + strawberry pulp ] pint, generous cup) a
generous cup) heavy cup) heavy a fine sieve, 2| dl. (scant + sieve, and add 2+ I
pint, generous oz.) gelatine syrup (30°), juice of (1o2.) gelatine (30"), the juice
g. (! 15 g. and 15 lemon, and of a a lemon, which water and and strained strained
which has in a a little little water has been been dissolved dissolved in through
(scant ! pint, generous generous cup) cup) muslin. Add Add 2! 2+ dl. dl. (scant
through muslin. I pint, whipped cream cream to the the mixture. Pour in a a
rereice, or or in into a chill on crushed ice, and chilI Pour into a mould mould
and on crushed frigerator. large with large a dish dish and and surround surround
with frigerator. Tum Turn out onto a out onto hulled fine sugar. with fine sugar.
hulled strawberries, sprinkled with strawberries, sprinkled Apricot, pear,
raspberry and other pineapple, pear, peach, pineapple, raspberry and other Apricot,
peach, fruit prepared in way. in the the same same way. fruit bavarois bavaror can
can be be prepared Striped BAVARoIS vanilla Bavarian Bavarian cream. cream.
BAVAROIS and vanilla Striped chocolate chocolate and RUBANÉ (9 oz., g. (9 250 g.
oz., nr À A LA LA VANILLE VANILLE -- Sift Sift 250 nun.q.N6 AU AU CHOCOLAT
cnoeoI-.a.r ET generous yolks and and egg yolks generous cup) 8 egg add 8 into a
fin'e sugar a saucepan, saucepan, add cup) fine sugar into a is mixture is pinch of
heat until until the the mixture very low low heat a pinch of salt. over very salt.
Stir Stir over perfectly (scant pint, pint, 2* 2l cups) cups) milk milk perfectly
blended. Boil 5 5 dl. dl. (scant blended. Boil separately, other to the the other
Add slowly slowly to vanilla bean. bean. Add sefarately, add add 1 I vanilIa
mixture, en thé thti When low heat. heat. Wh mixture, and and stir constantly over
over low stir constantly ta resul ting custard tly to remove aspoon, to coa coat
spoon, remove resulting custard thickens thickens sufficien sufficiently from from
the the heat. heat. Strain (2 oz., g. (2 parts. Add 50 g. oz., in two Add 50 and
divide divide in two parts. custard and Strain the the custard 2 part, and in and
blend blend in to one one part, chocolate to 2 squares) melted chocolate squares)
melted whipped whipped cream cream Blend whipped it begins to set. set. Blend cream
when when it begins to whipped cream similarly mixture. into the remaining custard
custard mixture. the remaining similarly into Rinse Id in almond with sweet a mou
in ice ice water, water, or or brush brush with sweet almond Rinse a mould oil.
mixtures, taking taking Fill with with alternate alternate layers layers of of the
the two two mixtures, oil. Fill care preceding one has set layer until one has set
care not not to add a a new new layer until the the preceding to add properly. shed
ice, refrigeraice, or properly. Place in the the refrigeracrushed Place the mould
on or in on cru the mould tor, To loosen loosen the thebavarois, bavarois, and
leave leave to 1| to to 2 2 hours. hours. To tor, and to set set 1+ dip it, and and
tum bavarois mould in in warm water, dry dry it, turnthe the bavarois dip the the
mould warm water, into glass dish. into a a glass dish. Striped (various flavours).
BAvARoIS flavous). BAVAROIS cream (various Striped Bavarian Bavarian cream RUBANÉS
pARFUMs DIVERS asdescribed in the the Proceed as described in DIvERs -- Proceed
nuslNfs AUX AUx PARFUMS previous previous recipe. cream can can be bemade made
Variegated Bavarian Bavarian cream recipe. Variegated by mixture and strawberry by
using alternate layers layers of of vanilla vanilla and strawberry mixture using
alternate (or (or any apriandapricoffee, vanilla vanillaand any other red fruit),
fruit), vanilla vanilla and and coffee, other red cot, vanilla and pistachio nuts,
etc. cot, vanilla and pistachio nuts, etc. Vanilla (Car0me). FROMAGE A s.avA.nolsÀ
FRoMAGEBAVAROIS cream (Carême). Vanilla Bavarian Bavarian cream LA VANILLE - Add a
andbring bring cups cream creamand to 33cups vanilla bean bean to LA vANTLLE - Add
a vanilla

Aux AUX

cream Bavarian cream Striped Bavarian Striped

cream by by oneonereduce the the cream heat and and reduce the heat Lower the the
boil. boil. Lower to to the (l oz.) g. (1 and 25 25 g. oz.) (8 oz., g. (8 cup)
sieved sieved sugar sugar and I cup) 225 g. oz., 1 third. Add 225 third. Add muslin
into into aa through muslin isinglass. Blend Blend thoroughly, thoroughly, strain
strain through isinglass. mixture begins begins place on ice. When When the the
mixture on crushed crushed ice. basin, and place basin, and cream. fold in in
whipped whipped cream. to to set, set, fold
ways prepared in in several several ways beverage prepared BA VAROISE -- Pleasant
Pleasant beverage BAVAROISE milk, etc. etc. from from tea, tea, syrup, syrup, milk,
Bavarian part of century several several Bavarian eighteenth century the eighteenth
In In the ofthe the early early part tea habit of of taking taking tea were in in
the the habit in Paris Paris were princes princes sojouming sojourning in des
Fossés-Saint-GennainFoss6s-Saint-Germainrue des the Café together together at
Procope, rue atthe Cafi Procope, but they they (today rue I'Ancienne-Com6die): but
des-Prés des-Pr6s (today rue de de l'Ancienne-Comédie): decancrystal decanfrom
crystal them from to them insisted be served served to it should insisted that that
it ihould be rather syrup rather with capillary capillary syrup ters, preferred it
it sweetened sweetened with and preferred ters, and given tb new to the the new was
given than name bavaroise bavaroise was Thence the the name than sugar. sugar.
Tbence by replacing replacing it, simply simply by beverage. to serve serve it,
caf6s began began to Other cafés beverage. Other the to the cooked to the clarified
sugar sugar cooked with clarified the capillary capillary syrup syrup with milk.
consistency adding milk. and adding consistency of of aa syrup, syrup, and very (+
pint, pint, scant cup) very scantcup) Bavaroise 2 dl. dl.(t Bavaroise 1 I -- Mix
Mix together together 2 syrup sugar syrup I tablespoon strong fine sugar, sugar, 1
tablespoon sugar strong tea, tea, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon fine mixture yolk.
Whisk the mixture until the (104"C., 220°F.) Whisk until (l04°C., 220'F.) and and
an an egg egg yolk. teaspoons milk and and55 teaspoons becomes boiled Ïnilk little
boiled Add aa little becomes frothY. frothy. Add kirsch. kirsch. liqueur.
otherliqueur. orany anyother Flavourings maraschino, or Flavourings can can be be
rum, rum, maraschino, (4oz., g.(4 cup) yolks with oz.,t with 125 125g. i cup)
Bavaroise II -- Whisk Whisk 44 egg egg yolks Bavaroise II (3tablespoons,
scant**cup) fine dl. (3 tablespoons,scant Add itdl. fine sugar sugar until until
thick. thick. Add "rrp) generous cup) pint,generous cup) (scant1 syrup 220°F.), 2i
dl. (104'C.,220F.),2| dl. (scant syrup (104°C., I pint, freshly milk. boiling milk.
amount boiling and the the same same amount freshly made made hot hot tea, tea, and
(6 dl. (.6 Add 1I dl. Whisk frothy. Add very frothy. is very mixture is Whisk until
until the the mixture tablespoons, Calvados. rum, kirsch kirsch or orCalvados. cup)
rum, scant1 tablespoons, seant +cup) lemon The on with orange, flavoured with
orange,lem also be befiavoured can also The bavaroise bavaroisecan or milk.
inboiling boiling milk. infused in first be beinfused should first vanilla, which
whichshould orvanilla,

BA VAROISE AUX expression French slang slang expression CHOUX -- French ALIX CHOUX
BAVAROISE describing andorgeat. orgeat. absinth and mixture of ofabsinth describing
aamixture BAY. inareaatraditional leavesare traditional inBayleaves rnunrER-sAUcE -
- Bay BAY. LAURIER-SAUCE gredient (q.v.).The bay Theberries berriesof ofthe thebay
gredient of bouquet-garni(q.v.). ofthe the bouquet~garni tree called herbscalled
aromatic herbs of aromatic distillation of in aa distillation tree are are used
usedin Fioravanti. Fioravanti. BA YONNE - - Town wherethe theegg egg inthe Basses-
Pyr6n6eswhere Town in theBasses-Pyrénées BAYONNE and inbeeninissaid tohave have
been saidto mayonnaise is calledmayonnaise and oil sauce called oil sauce vented.
are,in in whichare, hamswhich forBayonne Bayonne hams known for It is isalso
alsoknown vented. It fact, Orthez. town,Orthez. inaaneighbouring neighbouring town,
fact, made madein The improve Itisisalso alsoused usedto toimprove raw.It isusually
usually eaten eatenraw. The ham ham is the garnish asaagamish cookedas andcooked
andsauces, sauces,and ragoittsand flavourof ofragoûts theflavour for ways. prepared
in invarious various ways. foreggs eggsprepared Bayonne produceexcellent region
produce excellent neighbouring region andthe theneighbouring Bayonne and local
(amixture (q.v.)(a cabbage, garbures(q.v.) mixture of ofcabbage, aregarbures
Thereare localdishes. dishes.There bacon, Pyr6n6es inthe thePyrénées popularin
goosefat ryebread, bread,popular fatand andrye bacon,goose 91 9l
BEAN BEAN
district), preserved preserved goose, goose, preserved preserved pork, pork,
locally locally caJIed called district), methode. Ail All the the charcuterie
charcaterieof of the theBayonne Bayonne region regionis good, methode. is good,
especially the (blood) puddings. the black black (blood) puddings. especially Among
the the sweets, pAtd de sweets, pâté (a citron decédrat cidrat (a preserve), is
citron preserve), is Among delicious, and and Bayonne Bayonne chocolate chocolate
is is noted. noted. delicious,
BEAN. HARICOT HARrcor --A pulse ofwhich of which there there are are many many
varieties, varieties, BEAN. A pulse some edible, edible, others others ornamental.
ornamental. Among Among edible edible varieties virieties are are sorne beans,
which which grow grow to glimbing beans, to aa height height of (6 to of 2 2 to to
3 3 m. m. (6 to 10 l0 c1imbing feet), and and are are trained trained on poles. The
on bean bean poles. The dwarf dwarf varieties varieties feet), need no no support.
support. In In most most varieties varieties the pod is the pod is tender tender
and and need edible when young. when young. edible Edible bean pods falI bean pods
fall under under the general heading the general heading of green of green Edible
beans. In In sorne some varieties varieties the pod remains the pod remains tender
tender and anO good go6a to to beans. eat even even when when fully fully grown,
grown, but but in in the the case case of parchmentof parchmenteat skinned beans,
beans, it it becomes becomes tough tough and and leathery. leathery. skinned

BROAD BEANS BEANS (U.S. (U.S.Shell plant Shellbeans). beans). FÈVES rivrs -- Anoual
Annual plant BROAD of the the Leguminosae Leguminosae family, family,cultivated
cultivated for for its itsseeds, seeds,which which of as food serveas food for for
man man and and for for animais. animals. The The broad broad bean, bean, of of
serve which the Windsor is the Windsor is best best known, known, is is the the
common common bean bean of which of Europe. Other Other well-known well-known broad
broad beans beans are are the the lima lima bean, bean, Europe. species originating
in South originating in South America America and andcultivated cultivated exaa
species extensively in in California; California; the the soya soya bean of China,
China, Japan bean of tensively Japan and and India, now now very very widely widely
cultivated. cultivated.Sorne Some beans, beans, such such as as the the India,
horse bean beanof Scotland and and the pea ofsouthern thecow cow pea of southern
U.S.A. U.S.A. are are horse ofScotland chiefly used used for for forage. forage.
chiefly The fresh fresh broad broad beans beans that that are are commonly commonly
used used in in Europe The Europe do not not have have a a very very high high food
food value. value. Dried Drid beans, beans, on on the the other other do hand, are
are rich rich in in amino amino acids acids and potassium salts; and potassium
salts; they they also also hand, contain large quantities of large quantities of
nitrogenous nitrogenous substances substances and and contain Vitamins Band B and
E. Their nutritive E. Their nutritive value greater value is is therefore therefore
greater Vitamins than fresh fresh beans. beans. However, However, eaten eaten in in
excess excess they they can can cause cause than (favism). serious blood blood
disorders disorders (favism). serious (4 oz.) g. (4 100 g. oz.) unpodded yield
approximately unpodded beans beans yield approximately 50 g. 50 g. 100 (2 oz.) oz.)
comestible comestible beans. beans. (2 To cook cook fresh broad beans. beans. SheU
Shell the the beans. beans. Remove Remove the the To fresh broad tough outer outer
skin skin and and cook cook in in boiling boiling salted salted water water with
with a a tough bunch of of savory. savory. Drain, Drain, and proceed according and
proceed according to bunch to the the selected recipe. recipe. selected Fresh broad
broad beans beam à I l'anglaise. l'anglaise. FÈvES rAvns FRAÎCHES rneicrrs À A
L'ANGLAISE r'ANcLArsE Fresh Cook the the beans beans as as indicated indicated
above, above, but leave leave in in their their skins. skins. - Cook Drain, and and
serve serve with with fresh fresh butter. butter. Drain, Fresh broad broad beans
beans in in bUtter. birtter. FÈvES rtvrs FRAîcHES rnalcrrts AU Fresh AU BEURRE
BEURRE as for for Peas Peas in (see PEAS), and in butter (see and add add chopped
Proceed as chopped savory. savory. proceed as in cream. cream. FÈvES rtvns À A LA
cRÈME Broad beans in cniun -- Proceed as for (see PEAS). Moisten with thick fresh
Peas in in butter (see Peas fresh cream, and simmer for for a a minute minute or
two. and Broad beans beam à la la croque-au-sel. FÈvES rirvx À A LA r.l CROQUE-
AUBroad cnoeus-luFresh broad spr - Fresh beans served raw as served raw as an an
hors-d'œuvre. SEL broad beans hors-d'euvre. guests shell The guests shell the the
beans themselves, seasoning The beans themselves, seasoning them with coarse salt.
salt. This This hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre is is popular all all over over the with
coarse of France. south of Fresh beans à la la française. frangaise. FÈVES rilvss
FRAÎCHES rndcrns A Fresh broad beaos À LA r,c, FRAN9ATSE - Shell and skin the
beans, and cook as for peas FRANÇAISE Peas à d lafrangaise (see of savory.
lafrançaise (see PEAS), together with a bunch of savory. Pur6e Purée of fresh broad
beam beans for garnishing. runfo puRÉE ne DE FtvBs FÈVES rn llcffis - Proceed (see
FRAÎCHES Proceed as as for for Purie Purée of of fresh fresh garden peas peas (see
PEAS). Puree Purée of bean soq soup - See SOUPS AND BROTHS. BROTHS. Fresh broad
bearn beans with ssvory. savory. riivrs FÈvES rn.licrcs FRAÎCHES A À LA
senSARRrErfi RIETTE - Shell Shell and skin the beans, beans, and cook in boiling
salted salted water water with with a bunch bunch of of savory. Drain, Drain,
return return them them to the the pan, pan, and and shake shake over over heat
heat for for a few few seconds to get rid of of any any moismoisture ture left.
left. Add Add fresh butter butter cut into small pieces. pieces. Mix carecarefully
fully so as not to damage damage the the beans. beans.

rl

rl

FIELD Buropean broad FIELD BEANS. BEANS. r'Evrnorss FÉVEROLES -European broad bean,
bean, smaller smaller than th an the the ordinary ordinary kind, kind, cooked
cooked in in the the same same way. way. These These beans beans usually usually
remain remain white. white. Field Field bean bean flour flour is is sometimes
sometimes added added to to wheaten wheaten flour flour for for the the manufacture
manufacture of of bread. bread.

k
Varieties Varietiesofbeans of beans

FLAGEOLET FLAGEOLET BEANS. BEANS. HARrcors HARICOTS FLAGEoLETs FLAGEOLETS - Used

Used mainly mainly as as a a garnish garnish (whether (whether fresh fresh or or
dried) dried) for for meat meat dishes. dishes. They They are are excellent
excellent with with cuts cuts of of mutton mutton or or lamb. lamb, and and make
make delicately delicately flavoured flavoured pur6es. purées. They They are are
not not common common in in U.S.A. U.S.A. Fresh Fresh flageolets. flageolets.
HARJcors HARICOTS FLAGEoLETs FLAGEOLETS FRArs FRAIS - Small Smal1 beans beans of of
a a greenish greenish colour. colour ..They They are are cooked cooked in in the
the same same way way as as Fresh Fresh white white haricot'beans haricotbeans (see
(see below). below). All Ali recipes recipes for for haricot haricot beans beans
are are suitable suitable for for flageolets. flageolets.
-

FRENCH FRENCH BEANS BEANS (U.S. (U.S. String String beans). beans). HARrcors
HARICOTS vsRrs VERTS -A A delicately should be be freshly freshly delicately
flavoured flavoured vegetable, vegetable, which which should picked, when they they
only only need need to to be be topped topped and and tailed..With tailed .. With
picked, when older olderbeans, beans, it itis isnecessary necessary to to cut cut
away away the the stringy stringy edges. edges.
92 92
BEANS. BEANS, RED RED
Wash Wash the the beans beans in in cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and
put put them them in in a a large saucepan full full of of boiling boiling salted
salted water water (l| (lt teaspoons teaspoons large saucepan salt per per litre,
litre, scant scant quart, quart, generous generous quart quart water). water).
Leave Leave the the salt

saucepan uncovered uncovered and and cook cook over over a a high high flame.
frame. The beans beans saucepan are are ready ready when when they they are are
tender tender but but still firm firm in in texture. texture. Do Do not overcook.
overcook. Drain Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. not Ifthe If the beans beans are are
to to be be kept kept for for later later use, use, or or are are to to be be
dressed with oil oil and and vinegar vinegar as as a salad, salad, they they should
should be be put put in in a a colancolanwith der der under under running running
water. water. If If they they are to to be be served at once in in butter, cream
crearn or some sorne other other way, they they should not be be cooled butter,
after being being boiled, but but should be be well weil drained. drained. after
French bearc beans A à I'anglaise. l'anglaise. HARIcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS A À
t'lNcrllss L'ANGLAISE French - Boil Boil the the beans beans in salted water,
drain, and dry in a cloth. c1oth. butter. Serve with fresh butter. beans i à la la
bonne bonne femme. femme. HARIcors HARICOTS vrnrs VERTS A À rl LA French beans
BONNE FEMME FEMME - Boil the beans in salted salted water until they are BoNNE
three-parts cooked. Drain, Drain, and dry in a cloth. cloth. three-parts Blanch
about about 200 g. (6 oz.) lean bacon, and cut into small Blanch butter. Add 500 g.
(l (1 lb.) of the nearly cooked dice. Fry in butter. beans, moisten with thickened
brown veal stock, cover coyer the beans, completely pan, pan, and and simmer simmer
slowly slowly until until the the beans beans are are completely cooked. httle
butter and sprinkle sprinkle with When ready to serve, add a little chopped
parsley. HARIcors vERTs VERTS AU BEURRE beans in brown brown butter. HARICOTS
French beare NOISETTE - Boil the beans in salted water as indicated above. NoIsETTE
(l oz., clotho Brown 25 g. (1 2 tablespoons) oz.,2tablespoons) Drain, and dry in a
cloth. well a pan, add the beans, season, season, and toss them weil butter in a
untiJ they have absorbed the butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped until serving.
parsley before serving. HARtcors vERTs d'h6tel. HARICOTS VERTS French beans in
butter à i la maître maitre d'hôtel. AU À rl LA MAÎTRE ' HÔTEL AU BEURRE BEURRE i,
Boil the as indirulirnr D o'H6rsr the beans as - Boil pan over a pan cated above,
and and drain drain thoroughly thoroughly. . Toss them in a all moisture left in
heat for for a a few few moments to to ensure that that ail them has evaporated.
pieces 90 to Season, and small pieces and add add butter cut into very small - 90
per butter 100 g. bu Uer to 500 g. t I cu p bu tter per cup g. beans (3 to 4 oz.,
scan scant butter all y are ail 1 lb. they I lb. beans). Mix the so that the the
butter so the beans in the evenly coated coated.. Sprinkle with parsley before
serving. French A LA m CRÈME nlruco'rs VERTS vERTs À cntlr,c -French beans beans in
in cream cream I. I. HARlCOTS Boil are three-parts until they water until Boil the
the beans beans in in salted they are salted water cooked. Drain, and dry in a and
coyer cover a clotho cloth. Toss Toss in melted butter, and with has been with
fresh fresh thick thick cream. cream. Simmer Simmer untiJ until the the sauce sauce
has reduced reduced to Season. its original volume. volume. Season. to half its
French vERTs À A LA u CRÈME Frenci beans II. HARICOTS rHmcom VERTS cntuE -beam in
in cream cream n. Follow preceding recipe, in a recipe, but the beans beans in a
Follow the the preceding but simmer simmer the (see SAUCE) rather sauce (see
instead of of cream. cream. rather thin thin Béchamel Bichamel sauce SAUCE) instead
Add butter just before serving. serving. French prepared in in this way and and
sprinkled with French beans beans prepared this way sprinkled with chopped verts à
d la la tourangelle. tourangelle. called haricots haricots verts chopped parsley
are are called Dried for a a HARIcoN VERTS vERTs SECS sEcs -- Soak Soak for Dried
French French beans. beans. HARICOTS long French beans. beans. fresh French like
fresh and cook cook like long time time in in cold cold water water and French
FRANQAISE vERTs À A LA LA FRANÇAISE French beans à i la la française. frangaise.
HARICOTS n^lRlcors VERTS (l inch) . (1 Proceed pieces about inch) long. long.
Proceed about 3 3 cm cm. Slice the the beans beans in in pieces - Slice as for Peas
française (see . (see PEAS) PEAS). asfor Peas à lafrangaise d la French vERTs AU AU
GRATIN GRATIN -gratin. HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS beans au au gratin. French beans
Proceed in an an beans in Put the the beans ueatn. Put as for beans in in cream.
Proceed as for French French beans ovenware grated cheese. melted butter butter
over over cheese. Pour Pour melted dish with with grated ovenware dish them grated
cheese. cheese. Brown Brown slowly slowly more grated and sprinkle with more them
and sprinkle with in in the the oyen. oven. French vERTs AU AU JUS rus -- Boil Boil
the the gravy. HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS beans in French beans in gravy. beans
cooked. are three-parts three-parts cooked. until they in salted water until they
are beans in salted water Drain, Moisten with with in butter. butter. Moisten
slowly in Drain, and and stew them slowly stew them thickened thickened brown brown
stock. stock. French A LA rl vsnrs À HARIcors VERTS lyonnaise. HARICOTS la
lyonnaise. i la beans à French beans LYONNAlSE (l lb.) French water. g. (lIb.)
beans in in salted salted water. French beans Boil 500 500 g. LyoNNArsE -- Boil
Drain drv in in a cloth. and dry a clotho Drain and

Brown Brown 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., bZ., 1 1 cup) chopped chopped onions on ions
in in butter butter and and add add the the beans. beans. Saut6 Sauté all ail
together; together; the beans beans should be be very very slightly browned.
browned. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley parsley and and add add a a
little little vinegar. vinegar. peNlcnfs - Boil Mixed Mixed beans. beans. HARIcors
HARICOTS vERTs VERTS PANACHÉS Boil separately, separately, in in salted salted
water, equal quantities quantities of of French beans beans and small fresh fresh
kidney kidney beans beans (flageolets). (flageolets). Drain Drain thoroughly.
thoroughly. Blend Blend the the two two in in butter or cream. cream. French beare
beans à la la normande. normande. HARIcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS A À m LA
NonNORMANDE MANDE - Proceed Proceed as as for for French French beans in in crearn.
cream. After After the beans beans are are cooked, blend in yolks yolks ofeggs. of
eggs. Just Just before before serving serving add butter.

French bean saI salad French ad

DE HARICOTS HARrcors VERTS vERTs -- Boil Boil the the French bean salad. SALADE DE
French bean saI ad. SALADE a cloth. with Drain and and dry in in a cloth. Serve
Serve with in salted salted water. Drain beans in a French dressing. a while the
beans are are still the beans still hot, The salad can be seasoned while salad can
The be seasoned with thinly chopped mixed mixed herbs herbs or or with flavoured
with with finely finely chopped flavoured sliced onion onion rings. sliced HARIcors
VERTS vERTs SAUTÉS saurfs AU eu in butter. butter. HARICOTS Fr.ench beans sautéed
saut6ed in Ft;ench and dry dry in in a a in salted BEURRE the beans beans in salted
water. Drain and BEURRE - Boil the browning in a a heavy iron pan in in butter,
butter, slightly slightly browning cloth. Sauté Saut6 in cloth. parsley. chopped
parsley. with chopped the beans. beans. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the provengale.
HARICOTS ru'nrcors VERTS vERTs beqns sautéed saut6ed à la la provençale. French
beans French pnovENgALE - Proceed beans as for for French French beans A LA Proceed
as slurft À L,c, PROVENÇALE SAUTÉS butter. Just Just before before for the sautied
in oil for the butter. in butter, butter, substituting substituting oil sautéed
parsley. grated garlicand garlic and chopped chopped parsley. a little little
grated add a serving, add serving, PRESERVATION OF OF See PRESERVATION bears - See
French beans Preserved French Preserved FOODS. FOODS. punfo DE Boil DE HARICOTS
HARIcors VERTS vERTs - Boil French beans. beans. puRÉE Puree of of French Purée for
in a a clotho cloth. Stew Drain and and dry dry in Stew for in salted water. Drain
beans in salted water. the beans the a fine fine sieve. rub them sieve. in butter,
and rub them through through a butter, and a few few minutes minutes in a potato,
and and puree half mashed potato, half its its volume volume of of mashed Add to to
this this purée Add just before before serving. mixture. Add Add butter butter just
serving. heat up up the the mixture. heat HARIeors VERTS vERTs À A LA LA TOMATE
ToMATE beare in in tomato tomato sauce. sluce. HARICOTS French beans French are
three-parts three-parts in salted water until until they they are Boil the beans in
salted water the beans - Boil for a a few few minutes minutes in aa clotho cloth.
Stew Stew for Drain, and and dry dry in cooked. cooked . Drain, (see sauce (see
Tomato sauce tablespoons Tomato in butter, butter, and add several several
tablespoons and add in parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. SAUCE). Simmer.
Simmer. Sprinkle Sprinkle with SAUCE).

sometimes Lima beans, beans, sometimes DE LIMA LIMA -- Lima LIMA BEANS. BEANS.
HARICOTS HARIcors DE LIMA green,like They are are green, peas,are popular in
America. They in America. called Cape Cape peas, called are popular like beans.
ofbroad flageolets, and about the the size size of and about flageolets, broad
beans. (see below) below) are are beans (see All recipes white haricot haricot
beans recipes for for Fresh Fresh white Ali for lima lima beans. beans. suitable
for suitable

RED BEANS. BEANS. HARICOTS RoucEs n c.Rrcors ROUGESRED (U.S. Iddney RoucES HAnrcors
ROUGES beans). HARICOTS kidney beans). Fresh red red beans beans (U.S. Fresh beans
white haricot haricot beans way as as Fresh Fresh white in the FRAIs -- Cook the
same same way FRAIS Cook in for red red (see below). aresuitable for white white
beans beans are suitable for recipes for below). Ali All recipes (see beans. beans.
in the the Cook in RoucEs SECS sEcs -- Cook HARIcors ROUGES Dried red red beans.
beare. HARICOTS Dried (see below). recipes All recipes beans (see below). All
haricot beans way as as Dried Driedwhite same white haricot same way red beans.
beans. dried red are suitable for dried suitable for for dried dried white white
beans beans are for
93 93
BEANS, BEANS, TONKA TONKA
Red beam beans in in red red wine wine à la la bouguignonne. bourguignonne.
HARIcors HARICOTS Red VIN Roucn ROUGE A À r,.c, LA nounc[IIGNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE -
Cook Cook the ROUGES AU AU vrN RoucEs red wine, with herbs and beans in equal parts
of water and red a piece of blanched lean bacon, or lean smoked bacon. are soft,
drain and and fry When the the beans beans are soft, drain fry them, them, together
When with some sorne coarsely chopped bacon, in in butter. butter. Serve with with
creamed creamed butter. bu tter.

flame for a Drain, and put in a saucepan. Toss them over a ftame in75 o2.,6
tablespoons) few seconds to dry them. Blend in 75 g. (3 oz., 6 tablespoons)

TONKA coumarin, a TONKA BEANS - The seed of a pulse rich in coumarin,

volatile oils and fragrant crystalline substance, fragrant crystalline substance,
analogous to volatile manufacture ofsome of some liqueurs. camphor, used in the
manufacture camphor,

WHITE HARICOT HARICOT BEANS. BEANS. HARrcors FRESH WHITE HARICOTS FRESH
FRAIS FRAIS -

BLANcS BLANCS

They can also aromatic aromatic vegetables and bouquet garni (q.v.). They and a r
bouquet be cooked cooked as follows: Cut a carrot and an onion into quarters and
brown them a bouquet garni and and 300 g. lightly in butter. Add the beans, a
lightly (5| pints, (ll oz.) blanched lean bacon. Coyer with 3 3litres (11 litres
(5t Cover with 6-t 6] pints) water, seasoned with salt. after 25 add the to the the
boil, boil, and the beans. Bring to and after 25 minutes minutes add greatly
improves This method Simmer slowly. method of cooking greatly slowly. This a number
the ftavour flavour of the beans, which can be dressed in a of different ways. must
be in cold cold water (Dry white haricot beans must be soaked soaked in for a time
before cooking.) cooking.) HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS FRAIS FRAIS Fresb white beans
beans à bretonne. HARICOTS Fresh i la la bretonne. A À LA Le BRETONNE nr.sroNr{E -
Cook the beans as indicated in the previous put them recipe. them in pan. Blend
Bretonne Drain, and and put in a a pan. Blend in in Bretonne recipe. Drain, (scant
I pint, pint, dl. (scant} sauce (see SAUCE) in the proportion of 2-t 2| dl. quart,
generous quart) I litre (scant quart, generous cup) sauce to to 1 cooked beans.
Simmer for a few minutes, and and sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. FRAIs AU
HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS FRAIS Fresh beans in butter. HARICOTS Fresh white white
beans in botter. previous recipes. BEURRE - Cook the beans beans as indicated in
the previous BEURRE-

Cook in boiling salted water to which has been been added - Cook

quart, generous generous quart) cooked butter to every litre (scant quart, to every
beans. FRAIS EN Fresh white beam beans en cassoulet. HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcS
BLANCS FRAIS cAssouLET CASSOULET - The cassoulet of Languedoc is made from dried
also be from fresh white haricot beans, white beans, but but it it may may also be
made made from beans. (See CASSOULET.) A LA r.c, BLANcs FRAIS nRxs À cream.
HARICOTS HARIcors BLANCS Fresh white beans beans in cream. cniirvrs CRÈME - Cook
the beans as indicated in Fresh white haricot Return to fresh cream. cream. Retum
beans. Drain, Drain. and and coyer cover with thick fresh beans. reduced to cream
has has been to half the cream the the pan, pan, simmer until the been reduced and
add fresh fresh cream. cream. Mix Mix.well. volume, and its volume, weil. EsrouFFAT
DE fresh white beam I l'occitane. I'occitane. ESTOUFFAT Estorffat of fresh
Estouffat beans à (+ lb.) g. (-t L'occIrANE BLANcs FRAIS rnHs A HARIcors HARICOTS
BLANCS À L'OCCITANE - Brown 250 g. diced and and blanched, in butter or belly belly
of pork, or salt pork, diced peeled, chopped goose fat. Add 1 chopped tomatoes,
chopped onion, onion,2 I chopped goose 2 peeled, garlic. Cook for l+ l0 minutes.
Add Add li little crushed crushed garlic. for 10 and a a little and (2f pints,
pints, 3t pints) white white haricot beans beans which which have litres 3f pints)
litres (2àparts cooked, cooked, and and then drained. Coyer, Cover, and then
drained. been three three parts been finish cooking. finish HARIcors BLANCS FRAIS
beans à i la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. HARICOTS Fresh white beaœ and drain the beans.
To To each litre A m LYONNAISE rvoNNAIsE À LA - Cook and (scant quart, quart,
generous generous quart) quart) beans 2 onions add 2 onions thinly beans add (scant
a few few in butter until until tender. Simmer for for a and cooked in tender.
Simmer sliced sliced and (3 2 tablespoons with 2 tablespoons (3 minutes in in a a
casserole. casserole. Sprinkle Sprinkle with minutes tablespoons) chopped chopped
parsley. tablespoons) parsley. HARICOTS BLANcS FRAIS FRAIs tnRlcors BLANCS beam
witb with parsley. Fresh Fresh white white beans asfor Aux FINES FINEs HERBES
ITERBEsAUX - Proceed as for Fresh white beans in butter, with chopped parsley
added. with puRfn DE DE HARICOTS HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS besns. puRÉE fresh white
white beans. Purée Puree of of fresb a fine fine sieve. sieve. FRAIS FRAIs - Cook
the beans, drain, and rub through a it is pur6e, stirring with until it with a a
wooden spoon spoon until Warm this Wann this purée, in the add fresh fresh butter
in the proportion smooth. Before serving, serving, add

rg

( N ico las\ Haricot beaos beans (Nicolas)

94
BEARN, BÉARN, PAYS PA YS BASQUE, BASQUE, BIGORRE BIGORRE
of 100 100 g. (4 (4 oz, oz., * t cup) cup) butter butter to to 500 500 g. g.
(generous (generous 1 1lb., lb., 2 2 cups) cups) of
pur6e. purée.
Il Dried Dried white white beam beans in in tomato tomato sauce. sauce. HARIcors
HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS sEcs SECS e AU Cook and and drain drain the the beans.
beans. To To each each litre litre (scant (seant AU ToMATEs TOMATES - Cook

If the bean bean pur6e is is to be be served as as a a vegetable vegetable or or a

a garnish Ifthe
SALADE SALADE DE DE HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS Cook and drain the the beans.
Put Put them them in a salad bowl bowl Cook and dress dress with with oil oil and
and vinegar, vinegar, season with with salt, salt, pepper and (parsley, chervil
chervil and chives). Mix and chopped mixed herbs (parsley, weil. well. seasoning.
Onion This This salad salad needs needs a lot lot of of seasoning. Onion rings
rings or or chopped onion may be added to it.
FRAIS FRArs

it should should be be fairly thick. tbick. it Fresh white bean bean salad. salado
Fresh

quart, quart, generous quart) quart) beans beans add add 3 3 dl. dl. (] (t pint,
pint, l| li cups) cups) Tomato fondue (see (see FONDUE) FONDUE) flavoured flavoured
with with a a little little garlic garlic and a a tablespoon tablespoon chopped
chopped parsley. parsley. Simmer Simmer all aIl together in a pan pan for for a few
minutes, minutes, and and serve. serve. together

BEAR. BEAR. ouRs OURS - Bear Bear meat meat can only only be be used used after
after it it has has been been marinated marinated for a long long time. time. It is
is not not particularly tasty ta st y and and is is often tough. tough. Prepare
Prepare in in any way way suitable for for wild wild boar boar or or venison.
venison. Some Sorne gastronomes consider consider bear's bear's paws paws to to be
be a a
great delicacy. delicacy. Bear Bear ham. JAMBoN JAMBON D'ouRsD'OURS - This This
ham, ham, common common in in Russia Russia and some sorne European countries,
countries, is cured in in the same way way as as pork pork ham. ham. It It is eaten
eaten cooked or or raw. raw. All AlI recipes recipes for for pork pork ham ham are
suitable for bear bear ham. ham. Bear's prw. IATTE PATTE DE DE L'ouRs L'OURS - The
The earliest earliest delicacy delicacy known known to the Chinese. Mencius,
Mencius, who lived about about a a hundred hundred years years like, so after after
Confucius, Confucius, said: 'Fish 'Fish is what what Illike, so are are bear's
bear's paws; but if if I 1 cannot cannot have both, I 1 will will forego the fish
fish and and choose the bear's bear's paw.' paw.' The supply of this tbis delicacy
is now very limited, limited, and and is is to to be had, if if at at all, aU, in
north China. China. Its l ts taste is is unique. unique. Mr. Mr. Cheng, Cheng, to
the Court-of St. James', one-time ambassador ambassadorto James', said: 'The 'The
nearest nearest comparison is that it it is like the fat fat part of of the best
best ham, or rather much better, for it it has not not the greasiness greasiness of
of the latter. It is so smooth and delicious de\icious that it it simply simply
melts in the mouth.' mou th. ' To cook. Wrap the paw paw in clean c1ean mud and
bake bake in in the oven. oven. When the mud becomes firm finn like clay, take the
paw out of of the oven, leave to cool, and peel peel off off the mud - this will
will autoautoSimmer in water, offthe matically matically tear off the hairy hairy
skin of of the paw. Simmer frequently to get changing the water frequently get rid
rid of of its its gamey gamey smell smell and taste. When the paw has become become
very soft and 'tasteless', 'tasteless', cook over low heat with shredded chicken
meat, lean Jean ham, harn, sherry enable the ingredients and just enough water
water to to enable ingredients to to yield'a yielda slices, like thick gravy. Cut
in in sUces, like ham.
See ARBUTUS. BEARBERRY. RAlSIN nnrsm D'ouRs BEARBERRY. D'OURS - See ARBUTUS.

DRIED WHITE HARICOT HARICOT BEANS (U.S. (U.S. Horticultural Horticultural

beans). HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcs BLANCS sBcsSECS - Dried Dried white white haricot
haricot beans beans are

usually soaked for a long time in water, but this traditional traditional practice
practice is a bad one. If If dried beans beans or or other other dried vegetables
vegetables have have to be soaked they tbey should be left for a short short time
time only. only. Some recipes recommend 12 12 or even even 24 hours of soaking,
Sorne wheqeas for a a few few hours, hours, may may cause cause slight sligbt
whereas soaking, even even for fermentation which noticeably fermentation
noticeably spoils spoils the the flavour flavour of of the the beans and can and
can also make them thern slightly poisonous. To To swell the llto beans, 1 soaking
is sufficient. to 2 hours bours soaking sufficient. good quality If the beans beans
are are of of good quality and have have been been dried within If theycan be
cooked without soaking. soaking. can be the year, they Pick through the the beans
and and wash wash them. them. Put Put them them in in a Pick cold water, and bring
slowly deep saucepan with plenty of cold Season. Flavour with aromatic to the boil.
Skim. Season. aromatic vegetables V"j~'-laLJl'-" (onions cloves, quartered (on ions
stuck with c1oves, quartered carrots, a bouquet stuck with garlic). Cover the pan
and garni (q.v.) clove of garlic). (q.v.) and a a small c10ve simmer very very
slowly. some cases, especially especially for cassoulet (q.v.) and estoufat In
sorne estouffat (q.v.) it is advisable to cook the dried beans with fat. This is
done by adding to the stock salted bacon, chine of salt pork and fresh fresh pork
skin. skin. This adds or knuckle of pork, and adds flavour to to the beans. can be
used in the sarne same Once cooked, dried white beans can la bretonne, bretonne, en
d la ways as as fresh fresh white white beans: ways beans: in in butter, butter, à
d la lyonnaise, in cream, with herbs, estouffat, à cassoulet, en estouffat, berbs,
as pur6e, in salad, etc. a purée, BLANcS SECS sEcs I'am6ricaine. HARIcors beans à i
l'américaine. HARICOTS BLANCS Dried Ihied white beans way, adding usual way, in the
usual Cook the beans in À A L'AMÉRICAINE r'eufnrclrxr -- Cook (lI litre (1 bacon to
a litre opr,prt"\llC 1 t pints, generous I lb.) lean bacon 500 g. (generous bacon.
quart) dried haricot beans. beans. Drain, trim and dice the bacon. add the the
bacon sauce, add tomato sauce, Mix bacon and Mix the beans with with tomato the
beans is well cooked. until the the bacon is simmer until HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS
SECS sEcs À A Dried white white beans beam à i l'anglaise. I'anglaise. HARICOTS
Dried with seasoning I'ANGLAIsE -- Boil Boil the beans in in water water with
seasoning and the beans L'ANGLAISE and drain. fresh butter. drain. Serve Serve with
fresh herbs, and HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS Dried white white beans bears à i la la
berrichonne. berrichonne. HARICOTS Dried BERRIcHoNwS A LA LA BERRICHONNE sscs À
SECS - Proceed as for Dried white beans au gratin (see below). Alternate thick
mutton Alternate layers of beans and thick pour hash in in an an ovenware dish.
Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour ovenware dish. and brown in the oven. melted butter
over, over, and rnelted HARIcors BLANCS beans à I la la charcutière. charcutilre.
HARICOTS white beans Dried white Dried piece of beans with with a a piece of A LA
LA CHAhCUTlÈRE cHARcur$ns - Cook Cook the the beans secs À SECS is cooked, and
herbs. herbs. When the ham is desalted lean lean raw raw ham, ham, and desalted
coarse dice. Drain tbe the beans thoroughly. drain it and and eut cut into coarse
drain (5 oz., in butter. Add 150 g. (5 cups) chopped on onion Brown 150 oz.,lf,
Brown li cups) ion in diced ham. ham. the diced the beans beans and simmer, simmer,
presently adding the the 6 small Cook 6 small pork Transfer to a buttered ovenware
ovenware dish. Cook to a Transfer (cripinettes) in press them them down down on on
in butter, butter, and and press sausages (crépinettes) sausages add the the butter
butter and add the beans. with breadcrurnbs, breadcrumbs, and beans. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with the Brown slowly. slowly. were cooked. cooked. Brown in which which
the the sausages sausages were in gratin. HARICOTS AU HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS SECS
sncs AU beans au au gratin. Dried white white beans Dried concenand add add sorne
some concenand drain drain the the beans, beans, and cRATIN -- Cook Cook and GRATIN
into a a buttered ovenware dish, buttered ovenware veal stock. Pour into trated
veal stock. Pour trated and add add melted melted butter. with toasted breadcrumbs,
and sprinkle with toasted breadcrumbs, Brown slowly slowlv in in the the oven.
oven.

The art cookery BTGoRREof cookery BASQUE, Bf,ARN PAYS Ufi.CO ....".JJr... BIGORRE -
The art of of is highly esteemed in these three three picturesque picturesque
provinces provinces of

the Pyrenees. the many specialities - Among the Culinary specialities many notable
notable dishes dishes preserved goose goose garbure, a lou trebuc, trebuc,
preserved a substantial soup; lou are garbure, are B6arn, onion soup to pork;
toulia and ou/iat ouliat in Béarn, to Bigorre and toulian or pork; in Bigorre
added, and which is is is sometimes sometimes added, a dash dash of vinegar is
which a which garlic, when leeks and and garlic, also made cheese, tomatoes, leeks
made of of cheese, when it it also &t berger. name of soupe soupe du the name takes
the takes lamb is is a historie dish; tender lamb IV is is a historic dish; Poule
au pot d'Henri IV in mutton cutlets in in Béarn, B6arn, rnutton be had had in the
the Ossau Ossau valley in to be to estouffat; or estouffat; also daube à d la la
béarnaise, biarnaise, or are also Barbges; there there are Barèges; pork, turkey
and goose, and duck. preserved go preserved ose, pork, produces excellent local
wines. wines. The excellent local Wines - Béarn B6arn produces Wines produces
Basses-Pyr6n6es prod dCpartemenl of of the the Basses-Pyrénées département uces
several wines d'origiru appellations d'origine the appellations categories of the
come under the the categories that come and V.D.Q.S. V.D.Q.S. and appelations
d'origine The Jurançon Jurangon is the best known of of the appelations The King of
the King of Navarre wine that wines. It It was was with with this this wine that
the wines. IV. It It is is Henry IV. lips of his nephew, the the future future
Henry of his moistened the the Iips moistened a robust, rosy-tinged with an
unusual, mellow bouquet, rosy-tinged wine with a 'Manseng' vine. vine. This vine,
This vine, and cornes comes frorn from the the so-called so-called 'Manseng' and
gives the and Sauvignon, also gives the with the Sauvignon, also together with the
Sémillon S6millon and produced in Pacherenc de in the nortb north of of Vicbilh, a
a white white wine produced de Vicbilh, Pa<;hererlC province. the province. the
perfect accomaccomvery strong wine, the the perfect strong wine, a very is a The
Madiran is The V.D.Q.S. Among the the V.D.Q.S. region. Among anisine of of the the
region. the cuisine to the paniment to

95 95
BEARN, PAYS BASQUE, BÉARN, BASQUE, BIGORRE BIGoRRE

(French Governmenl Sauveterre de B6arn, Ofice) B6arn (French Tourist Office)

Sauveterre Béarn, Béarn Government Tourisi

lrouldguy, the red wine of the Basque country, country, there is the Irouléguy, red
wine thete B6arn, the and red the white wines of Béarn, the Rousselet, the white
and red wines Rousselet, and and the B6arn which are are beginning seriously to
very dry ros6s rosés of Béarn - which rival Provence. rival those those of
Provence. great gourmet, who studied a great Paul PauJ de Cassagnac, a studied the
wines Adour basin, quotes among the remarkable vintages of the Adour vintages 1870,
1886, 1886, 1898, 1898, 1904 1904 and of 1870, and 1916. of the the Madiran those
those of a Madiran of 1848 which was He had also occasion occasion to drink a still
'at the height of its form'. still gathered late, towards the end 'The Portet is a
white wine, gathered

and soft, or dry, depending on of November. It is is sweet and on the year. feature
of of the Jurançon sweetness, 'The characteristic characteristic feature Jurangon
is its sweetness, a syrup. which does not destroy its bouquet or turn it into a
years are are mostly irregular; often often the vintage years The mostly irregular;
the good The vintage are swamped swamped in qualities of Jurançon Jurangon are
qualities in the the excess of sugar. 1886, and 1916 produced splendid results.'
1905 and 1886, 1905 B6arn and and is A is· also made in in Béarn A red red Jurançon
Jurangon (Bouchy) is'also greatly esteemed as a a table cannot compare wine, but
but it greatly table wine, it cannot esteemed as Jurangon. with white Jurançon.
Lamprey, Shad, Sahed leg of

cEAN:H.J

ffi*i{*'''
Ham

:?^%ru^zi,A
ftt r. pot i
Lonquinguesrrtp!t{
Poule

PoiEi,-a duck preserves (confits)

omelette,

ry:"H:f:Sffi lmffi;*xl#@ffif':iffiW
ci.r6prr, sguids,
Sea-perch, Grey

ou

i[;l;i["'"7

mullet, "''"="

{ .I-

'-"1

i i +-_';;il;;;;;!-,

--''.;il:;::'
o;aaornl
Macaroons. Bas.que flan

speclolitier

i",:,f:.:.:^1^n*-*'+-ttr:*'^(t**

Elzekoria (pumpkin soup). Purce.de ciboure, Piperoile, Songuetc,-Broye, Cro.gucts

Aliches noifes (black bread), Salurgue, /vlicnes noires (Dlack Cretons. Solursue.
Creions, Lretons,5olurgue,

Hochto, Soutd chicken, Pigeon

Merveilles, Crespets.

e,t*yo,t. fl.:i{i'ffli:jfiii::ifl, ,.,,r"r salmi,

Duck s'fiver,

b€ornois, breadlbread), '' iiipiinut, Aticutt,'

Postis

_\\ lzird (chafrois) stew tf .l-_ (confi) \\\ preserve t \ li --rr \ \ -'.-fu'-
*r4'r'r'r-r
--\\ \\ i

ffiffi#ff,

\
ano

Map of of B6arn Map Béarn

96
BEAUVILLIERS BEA UVILLIERS
BEARNAISE BÉARNAISE SAUCE - This famous sauce is said to have have origina ted in
in B6arn, Béarn, though some sorne culinary writers assert originated
that it originated originated at Saint-Germain-en-Laye Saint-Gennain-en-Laye and
and was named named that in honour honour of Henry IV, the Great Biarnal's.
Béarnais. But in fact the Henry IV pavilion pavilion dates as a restaurant
restaurant from the year year 1836 1836
and the recipe for Bdarnaise Béarnaise sauce first appeared in 1818 in la
Cuisiniire Cuisinière des villes vil/es et des campagnes. Ia
- Animals Animais intended intended for for slaughter, slaughter, which which come
under the the general general term tenn of livestock, livestock, are enumerated
under that that heading. heading. In addition, some sorne beasts beasts of of
burden, burden, such under as horse, mule, donkey and camel, cameJ, are edible. as
animais, i.e. ground game, game, ail which Among the wild animals, all of which are
are edible, edible, are deer, chamois, fallow-deer, fallow-deer, red red deer,
deer, wild are deer, boar.

BEAUGENCY BEAUGENCY - Small Small town town in in Loiret, Loiret, producing wine
wine which resembles Burgundy) resembles the the Basse-Bourgogne (Lower (Lower
Burgundy)
wines. wines.

BEAST. BEA ST. stTE B~TE

BEAUHARNAIS BEAUHARNAIS (A (A LA) LA) - Method of of preparing preparing small cuts

cuts .t ourne do s. of meat, mainly ofmeat, mainlytournedos. Garnish Garnish with
small artichoke artichoke hearts and Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE), vtith with a a pur6e purée of tarragon added to it; it; and little potato
potato balls.

BEAUJOLAIS - Ancient French region that has given its

sweetbreads, mushrooms, used as a garnish for vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent,

sweetbreads, and tourtes (q.v.), a Velouti bouchdes (g.v.), bound bound with a
Velouté souce sauce or bouchées and Supr~me sauce (see SAUCE). Suprtme Ragoût of of
Hatilles béatilles (titbits) - Here is an old recipe: Ragoftt g. Q 'Gently cook in
butter 250 g. (9 oz.) lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads

BEATILLES BÉATILLES (Iitbits) (Titbits) - Cocks' combs and kidneys, lambs'

name to a 'gulping'wine 'gulping' wine with a very strong strong bouquet bouguet
which which must must be be drunk drunk when when it it is is young young and and
fresh. fresh. L6on Léon Daudet Daudet said that Lyon was watered by three rivers:
the Rh6ne, Rhône, the Sa6ne and Saône and the the Beaujolais. The
appellation'Beatjolais' appellation 'Beaujolais' is linked Iinked with the
viticultural viticultural region of of Burgundy Burgundy (q.v.). (g.v.).

BEAUMONT - Savov Savoy cheese cheese in season from from October October to
June.

BEAUNE - Sub-prefecture Sub-prefecture of of the the Cdte-d'Or. Côte-d'Or. Famous

since the Middle Ages for the excellence of of its wines. It has
given appellation conirôlée. contr1lie. given its name to an appellation of the
southern part of the COteThe white and red wines of Côte'Cdte de Beaune'. They d'Or
are classed under the name of 'Côte

(which (which have have previously previously been been soaked soaked in in co Id
water cold water and

blanched). Skin and soak in cold water water 125 g. (4 oz.) cocks' blanched).
(q.v.). Add 25 g. (1 court-bouillon (g.v.). (1 oz.) combs, and cook in a court-
bouillon cocks' kidneys, cooked in in I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1cup) } cup)
Madeira and a tablespoon butter. and a butter. Sauté briskly in in butter Saut6
briskly 250 g. (9 oz.) sliced and seasoned Cook 250 g. seasoned chicken livers.
Cook (9 (9 oz.) trimmed and washed mushrooms in butter. Put the sweetbreads,
chicken chicken livers, Iivers, cocks' combs and kidneys lambs' sweetbreads,
cocks'combs g. (4 oz.) sliced and the mushrooms in a Add 125 g. a saucepan
saucepan.. Add (f pint,3 truffies and and lf li dl. (t pint, cup) Madeira. Madeira.
Simmer with a lid on on,. (q.v.) using concentrated chicken stock. stock. 'Make a a
Velouté Veloutd (g.v.) Add to it half its volume of fresh fresh cream. cream. Boil
down by half. Lace with a a little Madeira. add add sorne Lace with little Madeira,
butter, strain, strain. and some butter. pour over ragottt.' the ragoût.' over the

are among are among the the finest finest of of the the Burgundy wines wines (see
(see BURGUNDY). The annual annual wine auction of The wine auction of the the
Hospices Hospices de de Beaune attracts buyers from all over the world. attracts
from ail
served as Steward of the Household served Steward of Household to the Count Count
ofProvence of Provence and Attach6 Attaché Extraordinary of of the Royal Household.
Household . (n 1782, according to The restaurant which which he he founded (in The
was situated 1786 according to Brillat-Savarin, in to others) was in 1786 rne de de
Richelieu and was called la Grande Grande Taverne de at 26 26 rue Londres. It can
be considered considered the first real to be real restaurant to etc. were in
Paris. Rivarol, Pelletier, Champcenetz, etc. opened in

great cuisinier. He was a a great Beauvilliers was BEAWILLIERS BEAUVILLIERS -

Beauvilliers

(French Governmenl A Beaujolais wine-cellar wine-cellar (French Government Tourisl

Tourist Office) Ofice) A

97
BEAUVILLIERS BEA UVILLIERS
habituis and and more more th issue of than one issue of the the Journal Journal
des des Apôtres Ap\tres habitués an one was composed composed after good dinner
after a a good dinner in in another another restaurant restaurant was that
Beauvilliers Beauvilliers owned owned in in rue rue de de Valois. Valois. He He
bought bought three three that arcades of of the the Palais-Royal Palais-Royal in
in 1790 1790 for for 157,000 157,000 francs. francs. arcades During the the turmoil
turmoil of of the the Revolution Revolution la Grande Taverne Taverne la Grande
During de Londres Londres had had to close its to close its doors. doors. Towards
Towards the the end end of of the the de Directoire, Beauvilliers Beauvilliers
reopened reopened it. it. In In 1824 1824 he he wrote wrote his his Directoire,
book l'Art l'Art du dt cUisinier, cuisinier, which which for for a a long long time
remained an an time remained book authoritative standard standard work. work.
Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin wrote: wrote: authoritative 'Beauvilliers had
prodigious memory. had a a prodigious memory. He He recognised recognised
'Beauvilliers people whom and welcomed welcomed people whom he he had had not not
seen seen for for twenty twenty and years, people people who who may may only only
have have eaten eaten at at his his restaurant restaurant years, once or or twice.
twice. once 'He would advise would ad which dish dish not not to to take, take,
which which to to snap snap 'He vise which up, and and would would then then order
order a a third third one which no one which no one one else else up, would have
have thought thought of; of; he he wou would have wine wine brought brought up up
Id have would from the vaults, to the vaults, which only to which only he he had
had the . . . But the key key ... But this this rôle r6le from of a a host host
lasted lasted but but a a moment moment and and having having accomplished
accomplished it it of he would would vanish. vanish. And And a a little little
while while later later the the amount amount of the of the he dinner bill bill and
and the paying it the bitterness bitterness of of paying it showed showed clearly
clearly dinner that one one had had dined great restaurateur. dined with with a a
great restaurateur. Beauvilliers Beauvilliers that made his his fortune, fortune,
lost lost it it and and made made it it again again several several times.' made
BEAUVILLIERS Garnish for for braised braised meat meat consisting consisting of of
- Garnish BEAUVILLIERS spinach kromeskies, kromeskies, toma tomatoes puree of
stuffed with with a a purée of brains, brains, spinach toes stuffed and salsify
salsify sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. and BEALIILLIERS AND BONVALET These
two two cakes, cakes, the the BEAUVILLIERS AND BONV ALET - These recipes for for
which which are are almost almost identical, identical, were were created created
towards towards recipes the middle middle of the nineteenth nineteenth century. of
the century. the of Beauvilliers' Beauvilliers' old One of pupils. Monnier, old
pupils. Monnier, set set up up a a One cake shop in rue rue Monsieur-le-Prince
Monsieur-le-Prince and, shop in and, as as homage homage to his to his cake
teacher, named named his his creation creation after after him. him. This This was
was the first the first teacher, cake intended intended for for travel, travel,
wrapped wrapped in in tin tinfoil. cake foi 1. The Bonvalet Bonvalet cake cake was
was created created by Jules Leroy, Leroy, head head The by Jules pastry-cook at at
Machin's, Machin's, 99 de Turenne, Turenne, and pastry-cook 99 rue rue de and he he
dedidedicated it it to a Monsieur Monsieur Bonvalet Bonvalet in is the cated to a
in 1869. 1869. Here Here is the recipe recipe for these cakes, as given by as given
for these cakes, by Phil6as Philéas Gilbert: Gilbert: 'Pound 200 g. (7 200 g. oz.,
scant scant lf almonds with an equal Q oz., 'Pound 11 cups) cups) almonds with an
equal amount of sugar, add 5 egg amount of sugar, add 5 egg whites whites little !
ittle by by little. little. Rub Rub this mixture sieve. mixture through through a a
sieve. 'Blend (18 oz., 500 g. g. (18 oz., 2{ 2i cups) cups) sugar sugar with with
350 350 g. g. (12 (12 oz., oz., 'Blend 500 l] butter and and 4 4 whole whole eggs
eggs in in a a bowl. bowl. When When quite quite 11 cups) cups) butter smooth, add
smooth, add the the almond almond mixture, mixture, 175 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz., oz.,
lf li cups) cups) fine fine cake cake flour, flour, the the same same amount amount
of of rice rice flour flour and and potato potato flour. flour. Add Add 7 7 egg egg
whites whites whisked whisked to to a a stiff stiff froth. froth. Cook Cook in in a
a moderate moderate oven oven (160'C., (1 60°C., 325oF., 325°F., Gas Gas Mark Mark
3) 3) in in a a special special cake-baking trois à trois cake-baking tin tin (with
(with. a a hole hole in in the the middle) middle) called called d frCres, frères,
sprinkled sprinkled with with potato potato flour. flour. 'When 'When the the cake
cake is is cold, cold, ice ice it it with with kirsch kirsch icing icing and and
fill fill the the centre CREAMS) or Chantilly ueam cream (see (see CREAMS) or
Plombiire Plombière ice ice centre with with Chantilly ueanf(see cream' (see ICE
ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES). ICES). BEAVER. CASTOR - A A mammal mammal rare
rare in in Europe Europe but but common cornmon BEA VER. cAsroR in in U.S.A. U.S.A.
Its Its meat meat is is sometimes sometimes eaten, eaten, but but has has a a
rather rather disagreeable disagreeable musky musky flavour. flavour. BEC BEC
(Berk) (Beak) - Word Word often often used used in in French French colloquial
colloquial exexpressions, pressions, such such as as rincer rincer le le bec bec
(to (to wet wet one's one's whistle), whistle), which which means drink; tortiller
tortiller &t du bec bec (to (to wolf wolf down, down, to to make make means to to
drink; short food), which bec, which short work work of offood), which means means
to to eat;fin eat;finbec, which means means a a gourmet. gourmet. BEC-PLAT BEC-PLAT
('Flat-beak', ('Flat-beak', i.e. i.e. Shoveller) ShoveUer) - Common Common French
French name name for for spoon-bill spoon-bill duck, duck, called called so so
because because of of its its flat flat beak. beak. It It can can be be prepared
prepared in in all ail the the ways ways suitable sui table for for Wild Wild duck
duck (see DUCK). (see DUCK). BEC-POINTU BEC-POINTU - French French name name for
for white white skate. skate. They They call call it it 'sharp 'sharp beak' beak'
because because its its head head is is elongated elongated and and the the body
body oval. oval. It It can can be be prepared prepared as as ordinary ordinary
skate skate (q.v.). (q.v.). (Hooked DOse) BECARD (Hooked nose) -- French French
term term for for old old male male salmon. BÉCARD salmon. Its snout snout begins
begins to protrude like to protrude like a a hooked hooked beak, beak, hence Its
hence the the (See SALMON.) name. (See SALMON.) name.

BECASSEAU -- French French name name for young woodcock, for the the young
BÉCASSEAU woodcock, until its its seventh seventh month. month. until All the the
methods methods of preparation given of preparation given for for woodcock Ali
woodcock are are applicable, but btil becasseau becassean are are mostly mostly
cooked cooked on applicable, on a a spit. spit.

Woodcock Woodcock

(Louis de) BECHAMEIL (Louis de Nointel, a a financier BÉCHAMEIL - Marquis de who

made made his fortune during the the Fronde Fronde (the rising of the the who
aristocracy and and the the ParIiament Parliament against against Mazarin in in
1648aristocracy got himself 53) and and got himself the the post of Lord Lord
Steward Steward of the Royal Royal 53) Household to to Louis XIV. XIV. The
invention of béchamel bichamel sauce is attributed to him but is more more likely
to have been been the invention of a court of a court chef chef who who dedicated
it B6chameil as as a it to to Béchameil tion compliment. compliment. The old old
Duc d'Escars said: said: 'That fellow Béchameil B6chameil has The all I was serving
serving breast ln crème crime twenty al! the luck. 1 breast of of chicken d à la
years before he he was born, I have never had the chance chance bom, but 1 years of
giving sauces!' giving my name to the most insignificant of sauces!'

BECHAMEL SAUCE SAUCE - Was bdchamel BÉCHAMEL béchamel sauce sauce really invented
by Marquis Louis de de B6chameil? Béchameil? Was this financier financier a
gasgourmet, and was he in any way competent tronome and a gourmet, competent in in
the culinary culinary art? We do not know, but everything everything seems to
indicate indicate that, in fact, bichamel béchamel sauce, sauce, being being a
major sauce, sauce, must must have been been perfected perfected by one of the
queux queux de semestre - cooks cooks in in the service service of of the royal
royal kitchen. kitchen. Originally, béchamelwas made made by by adding adding a a
liberal Iiberal amount amount Original!y, bichamelwas of of fresh fresh cream to a
thick thick veloutd velouté sauce. sauce. Nowadays N owadays bdchamel béchamel is
is made made by by pouring pouring boiling boiling milk milk on white roux (blend
of butter butter and and flour). flour). When a a meat meat bichamel béchamel is
wanted, wanted, lean lean veal, veal, diced and simmered in in butter butter with
with a minced minced onion. onion, is is added. added. (See (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.)
B6chamel Béchamel sauce (Car0me's (Carême's recipe) recipe) - 'When the velouti
velouté is is thick, thick, bind bind it it with with egg yolks yolks and and thick
thick cream. cream. Stir with with a a wooden wooden spoon to to make make sure
sure the the sauce sauce does does not not stick stick to to the the pan. of butter
butter the the size size pan. Remove Remove it it from from the the heat, heat, add
add a a piece piece of of of a a walnut walnut and and a few few tablespoons
tablespoons of of thick thick double double cream. cream. Add of grated grated
nutmeg, nutmeg, sieve sieve through through a a white white cloth cloth Add a a
pinch pinch of and and keep keep hot hot in in a a bain-marie.' bain-marie.'
BECQUETER BECQUETER - French French slang slang word word which which means'to
means 'to peck peck at at food'. food'.

BEDSTRAW. BEDSTRA W. clu,rE-r GAILLET - Plant Plant of of the the Rubiaceae

Rubiaceae familv. family. The The flowering flowering tops tops of of the the
yellow yellow bedstraw bedstraw or or cheese-rennlt cheese-rennet contain contain a
a substance substance which which is is used used in in the the curdling curdling
of of milk. milk. It It is is used used in in the the preparation preparation of of
Cheshire Cheshire cheese. cheese.
BEECH. BEECH. t$rnr IffiTRE - Handsome Handsome tree tree found found in in upland
upland groves. groves. Beech nut is is good good to to eat. eat. Beech Beech oil
oil is is extracted extracted from from these these Beech nut nuts, and is is
second second only only to to olive olive oil oil in in quality. quality. nuts, and

98 98
BEEF BEEF
Beech Beech nut. nut. rllNs FAINE - (See (See above.) above.) Its Its flavour
flavour is is midway midway between between that that of ofthe the hazelnut
hazelnut and and the the chestnut, chestnut, with with a a sligbtly slightly

astringent astringent taste taste which which disappears disappears when when
roasted, roasted, as as in in the the case case of of chestnuts. chestnuts.

with greasy covered coveredwith greasy spots, spots, as as in in the the case case
of ofhorse horsemeat. mea t. In In France France beefis beef is classified
classified in in three three categories categories according according to to fine-
grained firm and its itsmarket marketvalue, value, which which depends depends on
on how how firrn and fine-grained sinews and the the texture texture is, is, as as
well weil as as on on the the proportion proportion of ofsinews and fat: fat:

fat. fat. Blotting Blotting paper paper applied applied to to the the surface
surface should should never never be be

First First category. category. Fillet, Fillet, porterhouse porterhouse steak,

steak, rump, rump, rump rump steak, steak, silverside silverside and and inner
inner parts parts

sirloin, sirloin, top top of of the the flank flank

Tourist Ofice) Cattle Cattle market market at Bordeaux Bordeaux (French (French
Govenrment Governmenl Tourisl Office)

nourishfortifying and most nourishBEEF. BoETJFBOEUF - Beef Beef is the most

fortifying BEEF. ing of of ail all red meat. graded beef, graded qualities of of
beef, are three three qualities In France, there are France, there work done and
sex offattening, work state offattening, accordirtg accordilg to breed, age, state
includes the meat of bullocks, heifers, of of the animal (for beef includes cows
and bulls). feeding and feeding in rearing and The English have long specialised in
have long imported Durham Shorthorns were imported cattle for for beef. beef.
County County Durham stock. of beef-producing stock. the strain strain of into
improve the into France to to improve Limousin, Charolais, Limousin, crossbreeds,
Charolais, The The Durham-Manceau Durham-Manceau crossbreeds, good for fatteriing.
for fatteIiing. are also also good Salers are Garonne, Normandy and Salers Normandy
and

ln

Charolais cattle Charolaiscattle

the tothe andelastic elasticto firmand Prime redin incolour, colour,firm Prime beef
isbright bright red beefis withthe the touch. fatintermingles intermingles with
thefat freshsmell; smell; the It has hasaafresh touch. It grainsof of yellowish
grains lean, orslightly pepperingit slightlyyellowish whiteor itwith with white
lean,peppering

and and round. round. Second Second category. category. Top Top of of sirloin,
sirloin, plate, plate, top top ribs, ribs, fore-rib fore-rib and and three-rib,
three-rib, shoulder shoulder ofbeef, of beef, chuck chuck end end ofclod, of clod,
and and clod. clodo Third Third category. category. Flank, Flank, brisket, brisket,
leg leg of of beef, beef, neck, neck, oxoxcheek, of beef, beef, knuckle. knuckle.
cheek, shin, shin, ox-knees, ox-knees, shin shin of generally Cows' Cows' meat meat
is is inferior inferior to to that that of of bullocks, bullocks, generally cows
speaking, speaking, although although the the flesh fiesh of of young young heifers
heifers and and sterile sterilecows can can often often be be extremely extremely
good. good. Bull's Bull's meat meat is is tough; tough; it it swells swells a a
great great deal deal in in cooking, cooking, but but is is not not suitable
suitable for for anything anytrung exc€pt except the the stockpot. stockpot. The
The meat meat of of a a young young bullock bullock is is usually usually the the
b9s1. best. pet cent Good Good quality quality beef beef is is 97 97 per cent
assimilable assimilable (provided (provided it it is is residue, is not not eatenlo
eaten to excess) excess) and, and, since since it it leaves 1eaves little
littleresidue, is easily easily larger in say, is to that digested. Eating beef
beef to to excess, excess, that is to say, in larger digested. Eating quantities
quantities than than the the digestive digestive juices juices can can cope cope
with with (saturation (saturation leads individual) to point individual varies from
point varies from individual to individual) leads to to intestinal intestinal it
calories it disorders. disorders. The The fattier fattier the the piece piece of of
beef, beef, the the more more calories is fat is meat of amount excessive amount of
meat fat provides. an excessive However, an provides. However, eat the the so many
explains why difficult to digest, which difficult to digest, which explains why so
man y people people eat fat. the meat and leave meat and leave the fat. part which
is which is for the the part French terrn term for .le boeuf boed - French
Aiguillette de Aiguillette the is the This is boa{. This de boeuf and pidce anlotte
and de culotte ialled pointe also called also pointe de pièce de poachedor poached.
braised or is usually and is part rump and of the the rump top top part of usually
braised -niron in England England served Joint DE BoETJF BARoN beef. of Baron of
beef. BARON DE BOEUF - Joint served in part a part and a sirloins and the two two
sirloins It comprises comprises the time. It at Christmas Christmas time. at ribs.
the ribs. of the of joint is d l'anglaise I'anglaise sirloin as Roast Roast sir is
trea treated large joint This large This ted as loin à (see below). below). (see
defines origin, defines English origin, word, of of English This word, BIFTEcK --
This Beefsteak. BIFTECK Beefsteak. grilled. The The name name is is and grilled.
fillet and from the the fillet beef taken taken from a slice slice of of beef a
conteor contrefrom the the sirloin, sirloin, or taken from beef taken given to a
slice of beef also given to a slice of also filet. filet. fried in in butter butter
also be be fried it may may also grilling beefsteak, beefsteak, it Instead of of
grilling Instead Contre' Entrecbte, Chateaubriand, Chateaubriand, Contresee
Entrecôte, recipes see For recipes lard. For or lard. or is cooked, is raw or or
cooked, minced beef, beef, served served raw France, minced etc.In filet, etc.
filet, In France, also called called bifteck. bifteck. also Trim A L'AMÉRICAINE
L'ltrdnrclrNn -- Trim BIFTEcK À l'am6ricaine. BIFTECK Beefsteak à l'américaine.
Beefsteak finely, meat finely, the meat mince the (14 oz.) offfat, cut off g. (14
fillet of of beef, beef, cut oz.) fiUet 4@ g. 400 fat, mince of in the the centre
centre of nest in little nest Make aa little cakes. Make flat cakes. into flat and
shape shape into and yolk of into it. it. of egg egg into raw yolk a raw
each'steak'and slip a each 'steak' and slip parsley, and parsley, onion and chopped
onion cakes chopped beef cakes the beef with the Serve with Serve pickled in
vinegar. in vinegar. and capers capers pickled and diet. prescribed in in aa
building-up building-up diet. is often often prescribed dish is This dish This
Mince A L'ANDALOUSE r'Ar'IDII-ousn -- Mince BIFTEcK À l'andalouse. BIFTECK
Beefsteak à l'andalouse. Beefsteak (2 oz., chopped g. (2 oz.,loap) 50g. it 50 g.(14
(14 oz.) add to to it 400 g. beef finely, add oz.) beeffinely, 400 t cup) chopped
garlic. pounded garlic. pinch of of pounded with aa pinch butter, with fried in in
butter, onion lightly lightly fried onion in fry in and fry flourand with flour
Dredge with flatcakes. cakes.Dredge into fiat Season and shape into and shape
Season oil. oil. have been been which have half tomatoes tomatoes which on half
cakeson beef cakes Arrange the the beef Arrange pilaf. with rice rice pilaf. dish
with thedish of the centreof Fill the the centre in oil. oil. Fill saut6ed in
sautéed juicesleft meat with with the meat frying the from frying pan juices left
over overfrom Dilute the the pan Dilute add down, add boil down, cup) sherry;
sherry; boil (6 tablespoons, scant t* cup) dl.(6 tablespoons, scant 1I dl. cakes.
pour over beef cakes. the beef over the and pour butter and butter thesteak steak
Seasonthe ACHEV cnevAr, BIFTEcKÀ cheval. BIFTECK Beefsteak àI cbeval. Beefsteak AL
- - Season Arrange quickly in inhot hotbutter. butter'Arrange pepperand saut6
quickly andsauté andpepper withsalt saltand with and butter and Pourbutter top.Pour
eggson ontop. friedeggs twofried plate with oneor ortwo withone onaaplate on beef.
thebeef. overthe cookingjuices thecooking the juices over pArfCHAUD DEBOEUF BoEUF
crnuo DE pie(English cookery). PÂTÉ Beefsteak pie Beefsteak @nglish cookery). into
beefinto qualitylean lean beef lb.)best bestqwi.lity ttkg. kg. ($ lb.) Cut li
AL'ANGLAISE l'lNcmtsn- -Cut À pepper and and withsalt, salt,pepper Seasonwith inch)
thick. thick. Season cm.(-! slices1 cm. slices Ginch) and onionand chopped onion
withchopped andsprinkle sprinklewith gratednutmeg, nutmeg, and grated water.
orwater. piedish. Addstock stockor dish.Add intoaapie parsley.Put slicesinto Putthe
theslices parsley.

(3*

99
BEEF

rib

entrecôte

rump steak rump<;teak

I , flank: 2. skirt l, f1ank; 2. skir!

brisket

top rump rump top

top rib

fillet

contre-filet

con tre-filet

100

\00
BEEF BEEF

Silve

rs

ide

Topside

flonk Thick flonk Thick

Rump sleok

LLtI

Rolled ribs

ond

slRt()lN

Shoulder

tul
Best

\--

rib

n+*=S
B

riske t

(huck

Neck
cuts or ofbeef English beer EnglishCULS

Birteck à cheval

Beersleak pie

101
BEEF BEEF

Sirloin sleok
Round steolt

Porlerhouse sleok
Rump

roosl

(lub

steok

Stonding rib roost

Flonk sleok

Short ribs
Rolled rib roosl Brisket
(Corned beef)

(huck pol roosl

American cuts cuts of of beef beef American

Stew meo men l t Slew

Wet the the edge edge of of the the pie pie dish, dish, put put a border border of
of pastry pastry around around Wet it, moisten moisten with with a a little little
water water and and put put on on a lid lid of of pie pie or puff it, pastry. Seal
Seal the the edges, edges, ornament ornament the the top top with pieces pieces of
pastry. pastry cut cut in in fancy fancy shapes, shapes, brush brush over over with
beaten beaten egg yolk, pastry and make make a a hole hole in in the the centre
centre to to allow allow steam steam to to escape. escape. Bake Bake and in a a
moderate modera te oven oven for for l| 1i to to 2 2 hours. hours. Serve Serve hot.
hot. in Beefsteak ià la la russe russe Oitok). (bitok). BTFTEcK BIFTECK A À r.r LA
nusse RUSSE - For each Beefsteak - For each 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean
beef; beef; cut away all ail fat and serving, trim trim 125 serving, remove sinews.
sinews. Mince Mince finely finely and and add add 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., 2 2
remove nutmeg. tablespoons) butter. butter. Season Season with with salt, salt,
pepper pepper and nutmeg. table'spoons) Shape into into flat fiat cakes, cakes, dip
dip in in flour flour and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter.
Shape Add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) crearn cream
(sour (sour cream, crea m, for Add and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon demi-glace demi-
glace (q.v.) (g.v.) to to the the butter butter preference) and preference) left in
in the the pan. pan. Put Put I1tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion, onion,
lightly lightly fried left in butter, butter, on on each each meat meat cake, cake,
and and garnish garnish with with saut6ed sautéed in potatoes. potatoes. Beefsteak
tartare. tartare. BIFTEcK BIFTECK A À r.l LA r.cnrARE TART ARE - Proceed as
Beefsteak - Proceed as in the the recipe recipe for for Beefsteak Beefsteak d à
I'amiricaine l'américaine but but omit omit described in described theraweggyolk.
Serve Tar Tartare sauce separately (see (seeSAUCE). the raw egg yolk. Serve t ar e
s auce separately SAUCE). 102 t02

Bifteck i à la la tartarc tartare (Ledoyen. (Ledoyen. Phot. Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas)

Bifteck
BEEF BEEF
( ro sse (rosse

Gite de derriirc derrière Aiguillelte

Aloyau for roosting Aloyou
Tcnde Tende de de tronche tronche Gile Gite d à lo 10 noir noix { Tlonche Tranche
gtotse grosse ou ou rond rond Romsteck Romsteck

(ulolte

filel
filet (conlre-lilet

t lonchet Flanchet
Eovelle

Foux

Ong

let

Hompe

(ontre-filet f or roosting
Enlrec6te
f

(hdteoubriond
cdtes Plat P lot de (ôtes (ouvell couvert

Milieu

de

tendron

rom contre-filet

Milieu
de

Plol de c0tes
d6couveit

Poilr ine

poitrine

Gito de devont
Poleron
Crosse (rosse

llotlsuse
(ôtes couverl Cotes (ouvert
Poifrine
ofbeef French cuts cuts of French beef
Jumeour Jumeaux

Inl

rec6lo

Cold Left-over DEssERTE -- Left-over DE DESSERTE BouILLI DE soruF BOUILLI boiled

beef. beef. BOEUF Cold boiled pieces various with various served with pieces of cut
in in thick thick slices, slices, served beef, cut of boiled boiled beef, sauces.
sauces. r, LA rn Cold rRotn À parisienne. BOEUF BoUILLI FROID BoEUF BOUILLI i la la
parisienne. Cold boUed boiled beef beef à on aa PARISIENNE Arrange on thin slices.
slices. Arrange beef into thin boiled beefinto Cut the the boiled IARISIENNE -- Cut
long with boiled boiled potatoes row. Garnish Garnish with long dish dish in in aa
straight straight row. (peeled beans, (peeled and tomatoes, French beans, in
slices), sliced tomatoes, and cut cut in slices), sliced quarters any other other
quarters of watercress and and any eggs, watercress of hard-boiled hard-boiled
eggs, vegetabJes onion with thin thin onion meat with Decorate the the meat
vegetables in in season. season. Decorate rings, UCE) and (seeSA and SAUCE) sauce
(see with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce rings, and and sprinkle sprinkle with
chopped cold. Serve cold. parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon.
Serve chopped parsley, Left-over boiled beef can be various invarious be prepared
in beefcan ofboiled Left-over piecesof ways, m fritot croquettes, kromeskies, en
boulettes, croquettes, ways, including: boulettes, fritot (i.e. (i.e. fried
enmiroton. fat), en miroton. in deep deepfat), fried in BoUed ntABrn- - Cut Cut ALA
L.q,DIABLE BotnLLIÀ BoEUF BOUlLLI diable. BOEUF beef ài la ladiable. Boiled beef
boiled sprinkle mustard, sprinkle withmustard, Spread with slices. Spread beef into
into thick thick slices. boiled beef with white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. with
white and coat coatwith oil.and with melted melted butter butteror oroil, Grill
golden. Serve with Servewith making both both sides sides golden. heat, making
Grill on lowheat, onaalow Diable (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Diable sauce 103
r03

soNcnotsB A LA r-,1 HONGROISE BoUILLI À BoEUF BOUILLI hongroise. BOEUF beef ànla la
hongroise. Boiled beef Boiled in butter in in oil oil or or butter and sauté saut6
in large dice, dice, and into large beef into the beef -- Cut Cut the lightly been
lightly has been (4 oz., onion has chopped onion g. (4 cup) chopped oz.,l 100g.
which 100 which 1 cup) (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). paprika.Add Crearn sauce
AddCream with paprika. Season with fried. Season fried. sAUcE BoUILLI SAUCE
BoEUFBOUILLI sauoe. BOEUF horseradish sauce. with horseradish Boiled beef beef with
Boiled sauce Horseradish sauce with Horseradish thestockpot stockpot with from the
Beef from RAIFoRT - - Beef RAIFORT (seeSAUCE) separatelY. servedseparately. SAUCE)
served (see AL'INDIENNE I'tNomNNB - BouILu À BoEuF BOUILLI l'indienne. BOEUF beef
àn l'indienne. Boiled beef Boiled powder curry powder substitutingcurry
lahongroise, hongroise, substituting beef àdla LlkeBoiled Boiled beef Like
(seeRICE). RICE). separately(see I'indienrcseparately paprika. Serve
Riceàdl'indienne Serve Rice for paprika. for (old recipe). BoUILLI BoELJFBOUILLI
recipe).BOEUF pauvrehomme homme (old aupauvre Boiled beef beefau Boiled pAUvREHOMME
cut into intoslices, slices, beef,eut boiled beef, Left-over boiled HoMIVIE- -
Left-over AUPAUVRE AU and onions pepper, chopped spring on withsalt, salt,pepper,
sprinkled ions and sprinkled with stock' offthe thestockor fat skimmed off dripping
or parsley.Add [ttle dripping Addàa!ittle parsley. breadandbreadwater,and glassof
orwater, garlic,aaglass ofstock stockor pot,aapinch pinchof ofgarlic, pot, hot
quarter of houron onhot anhour ofan forquarter tosimmer simmerfor Leave ta crumbs.
crumbs.Leave greattreat by treatby (Thisdish, consideredaagreat wasconsidered
said,was dish,ititisissaid, ashes. ashes.(This Louis XV.) LouisXV.) BourLLI SAUCE
sAUcE BoEUF BOUILLI piquante sauce. sauce.BOEUF Boiled withpiquante beefwith Boiled
beef
BEEF BEEF
piquantesauce IIeUANTE - Beef Beef from fromthe thestock stockpot, with Piquante
sauce pot, with (see SAUCE) served separately. (see SAUCE) served separately.
Boiled beef pnovsxprovengale. BOEUF beefà t la la provençale. BoETJF BOUILLI
BourLLr ÀALA r,.lPROVENBoiled Prepare as Boiled beef d la hongroise, 9ALE;
substituting for ÇALE - Prepare as Boiled beef à la hongroise, substituting for the
cream cream sauce sauce an an equal quantity of equalquantity Tomato fondue (see
ofTomaLO fondue(see the FONDUE) fiavoured flavoured with garlic. Sprinkle with
garlic. Sprinkle with withchopped chopped FONDUE) parsley. parsley. Boiled beef
beef with with root root vegetables. vegetables. BOEUF sosuFBOUILLI BourLLr AUX
Arrx Boiled nlctxss- Boiled beef beef served withvarious served with various stock
stockpotvegetables, RACINES- Boiled pot vegetables, as carrots, such as carrots,
tumips, turnips, leeks. leeks. such gherkins, pickles, Sea salt, salt, gherkins,
pickles, etc., etc., are are served served at at the thesa same me Sea time. time.
PIQUANTE -

Boiled beefsautéed beefsauteed à ila lyonnaise. BOEUF BoEuFBOUILLI Bourr,rr SAUTÉ

slurf ÀALA r,,c, la lyonnaise. Boiled (generous lIb.) g. (generous Cut 500 500 g. I
lb.) boiled beef into small boiled beefinto small Cut slices and and fry fry in in
cooking cooking fat fat or or buttèr. butter.Add g. (8 (Boz., Add225 225g. o2.,2
slices 2 cups) chopped chopped on previously fried onions, fried in in butter.
butter. Cook Cook cups) ions, previously together, season season with pepper.
Sprinkle with salt salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped
together, parsley and (3 tablespoons) and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3
tablespoons) vinegar, vinegar, heated heated in in parsley pan in the pan in which
which the the beef was cooked. beef was cooked. the Boild beef beef sautéed sauteed
Parmentier. Parmentier. BOEUF BoEuF BOUILLI BorlLLr SAUTÉ SAUT6 Boiled IARMENTTER
-- Cut Cut 2 2 medium-sized medium-sized potatoes potatoes into into large large
dice dice PARMENTIER fry in and fry in butter. butter. When When nearly nearly
done, done, remove remove from pan. In from the the pan. In and the same same
butter butter brown (generous lib.) g. (generous brown 500 500 g. pieces of I lb.)
cut-up cut-up pieces of the boiled beef. beef. Add Add the potatoes and the
potatoes and fry fry everything everything together. together. boiled Sprinkle with
parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. Sprinkle Boiled beef beef with with tomato
tomato sauce. sauce. BOEUF BoEUF BOUILLI Bor.JrLLr, SAUCE sAUcE Boiled ToMATE Beef
from from the the stockpot stockpot with with Tomato Tomatosauce (see sauce (see -
Beef TOMATE SAUCE) served served separately. separately. SAUCE) Beef bouillon.
bouillon. BOUILLON BourLLoN DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- This This stock, stock, which
which Beef constitutes the the basis basis of of c1ear clear soups, soups, is is
also also used used for for moistenmoistenconstitutes ing sauces. sauces. ing Beef
stock stock is is obtained obtained by by cooking cooking lean lean beef with with
carrots, carrots, Beef leeks, celery onions, leeks, celery and parsnips in water
for and parsnips for about about 4 hours. hours. onions, When the the stock stock
is is to to be be served as soup, turnips are served as are added. added. When For
the the method method of of preparation stock, see see SOUP, SOUp, For preparation
of beef stock, Clear soup. Clear soup. Braised beef. ESTOUFFADE rsrouFFADE DE DE
BOEUF BoEUF Fry lightly lightly 300 g. 300 g. Braised beef. - Fry (11 oz.) oz.)
lean, diced bacon bacon in in butter. Drain, and and (II lean, blanched, blanched,
diced butter. Drain, in (3* lb.) fry l* kg. kg. (3t lb.) beef, beef, cut cut into
into pieces, in the the same same butter butter fry each (4 oz.). g. (4 oz.). Add
Add 3 3 medium-sized medium-sized each weighing weighing about about 100 100 g.
quarters. Season onions Season with pepper, add with salt and and pepper, add
onions cut cut into into quarters. pounded crushed clove of garlic. pounded thyme,
thyme, bay bay leaf leaf and a crushed When sprinkle in Wh en all ail these these
ingredients ingredients are well weil browned, sprinkle 2 flour. Let flour colour 2
tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) fiour. Let the the fiour
slightly, (lf pints, slightly, stirring stirring all ail the time. time. Moisten
Moisten with with I 1 litre (li generous quart) red red wine wine and and the the
same amount am ou nt of stock. generous quart) Blend add a a bouquet bouquet garni
garni (q.v.'1and (q.v.) and bring to the boil. Blend well, weil, add Cover Coyer
the the pan pan and and cook cook in in a slow oven oyen for 2| 2-!- to 3 hours.
Drain Drain on on a a sieve sieve placed placed over a a bowl. Put the the pieces
of beef beef and and bacon bacon into into a a pan, pan, add add to to them 300 300
g. (ll (II oz.) mushrooms, rooms, sliced sliced and and saut6ed sautéed in in
butter. butter. Skim surplus surplus fat fat off the the sauce; sauce; boil boil it
it down, down, strain, and pour pour over over the meat. meat. Simmer gently for
for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Sim mer gently Brisket. POITRINE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF -
This This part part of of beef beef is is used used for Brisket. porrRrNE the the
stockpot. stockpot. It It can can also also be be cooked cooked as as
Forequarterflank. Forequarter flank. Carbonades Carbonades of of beef beef I à la
la flamande. flamande. c.qnsoNA,DEs CARBONADES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF pr,lrulNDE - Cut A
Àm LA FLAMANDE Cut 750 750 g. g. (l* (li lb.) lb.) lean lean beef beef (thick
(thick skirt, or or chuck) chuck) into into thin thin slices. slices. Season Season
with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, brown brown quickly quickly on on both
both sides sides in in sizzling sizzling fat fat (lard (lard or or clarified
clarified stock stock fat). fat). Remove Remove from from the the pan pan and and
in in the the same same fat fat fry fry 4 4 mediummediumsized sized chopped chopped
onions on ions until until golden. golden. Put Put the the beefand beef and onions
onions into into a a casserole casserole in in alternate alternate layers layers
and and add add a a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Dilute (1 pint,2|
pint, 2-!- cups) cups) beer beer and and a a Dilute the the pan panjuices juices
with with 6 6 dl. dl. (l few tablespoons stock. stock. Thicken Thicken with with 3
3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant few tablespoons cup) Brown Brown roux roux
(see (see ROUX), ROUX), add add a a tablespoon tablespoon brown brown *t cup)
sugar, sugar, stir, stir, cook cook for for a a few few moments moments and and
strain strain through through a a fine onto the themeat. meat. finesieve sieveonto
LyoNNArsELYONNAISE -

Bringto tothe theboil, boil,coyer coverwith witha alid, lid,and andcook cookin
inthe Bring theoyen oven 2|hours. hours. 2+ Carbonades of ofbeef beefwitb
withlambic lambic(Belgian cookery). CARCarbonades cen@elgiancookery). BoNADES DE
DBBOEUF BoEr.JFAU AULAMBIC LAMBTc- -Cut Cutthe thebeef beefinto intoslices BONADES
slicesand and fryas asdescribed describedabove abovein inthe therecipe recipefor
forCarbonades Carbonadesof fry ofbeef beef laflamande. àdla flamande. Removefrom
fromthe panand thepan andin inthe thesame samefat fatfry frythe Remove theonions.
onions. Brown Iightly, lightly,sprinkle good tablespoon sprinklein inaagood
tablespoon of Brown flourand offiour and cookfor foraafew few moments. moments.
cook Futthe thebeef beefslices intoaacasserole, slicesinto casserole, season,
season,add addaabouquet Put bouquet -and garni (q.v.), (q.v.), moisten
moistenwithlambic with lambic (strong (strong Belgian Belgianbeer),and garni beer),
bring to the boil. Cover the casserole withaalid bring to the boil. Coyer the
casserole with lidand andcook cookin inaa hot oyen ovenfor for2~ Zlhours. hot
hours.

Chateaubriand Chateaubriand

1+

Chateaubriand -- Thick Chateaubriand ken from Thick slice slice of beef fillet
fillet ta of beef taken from the the middle of of the the fillet, middle fillet,
weighing weighing between between 400 g. (14 (14 oz. 400 and and 800 800 g. oz. and
li lf lb.). lb.). It It is and is usually grilled, garnished usually grilled,
garnished with with- Château Chhteau (see POTATOES) POTATOES) and potatoes (see
(see and served with Colbert served with Colbert sauce sauce (see SAUCE) or or
Maître Mattre d'hôtel SAUCE) (see BUTTER). d h6tel buller butter (see BUTTEP(\.
ChateauChateaubriand can can either briand either be be fried, fried, or or cQoked
cooked in in any any way way suitable suitable for for T-bone steak, fiUets fillets
and T -bone steak, and rump steak. steak. Grtlled. Brush Brush the Grilled. the
chateaubriand chateaubriand with with butter, butter, and and season. season. place
under First place juices, then under a First a hot grill to hot grill to seal seal
the the juices, lower then lower the heat heat and and continue the continue
cooking, cooking, keeping keeping it it a a little little underunderdone. Fried.
Season Fried. Season the the chateaubriand, chateaubriand, and and sauté saut6 in
in hot hot butter. butter. Fry briskly briskly but Fry but on on a a medium medium
Bame, flame, to to avoid avoid the meat the meat becoming dry. dry. Keep Keep
underdone. Garnish Garnish and and serve serve with with a a sauce sauce made from
from the diluted diluted pan juices. garnishes recommended The garnishes The
recommended for for T-bone, T-bone, rump rump steaks, steaks, tournedos and and
small fil1et fillet steaks are are applicable to to chateauchateaubriands. briands.
Contre-filetContre-fiIet- Cut ofmeat of meat located located above the loins and
and chine of the animal, c1assed classed in the first category of beef. beef. It It
can can be be grilled grilled or, after being boned, trimmed trimmed and and
dressed, it it can can be be roasted roasted or braised. braised. Grilled. Cut into
thick slices Gritted. slices and grill as T-bone or or rump steaks. steaks. Roast.
See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking Roast. See cooking timesfor
times for roasts. Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for
Braised. Proceed Braised. for Braised beef Sened Served as a a remove, remove, the
contre-flet,braisd contre-filet, braised or or roasted, roasted, beef. is
accompanied accompanied by by vegetables. vegetables. It is very good good served
served cold. cold. is à l,ancienne. l'ancienne. coNTRE-Frrsr CONTRE-FILET snetsf
BRAISÉ A À Contre-filet braised i L'ANClENNE - Proceed Proceed as described in in
the the recipe recipe for Top L'ANcIENNE for Top below). rump braised braised d à
I'ancienne l'ancienne (see below). rump Contre-filet braised braised A à la
bourgeoise. bourgeoise. coNrns-FTLET CONTRE-FILET snarsf BRAISÉ Contrefilet À r,c,
LA nouncEorsE BOURGEOISE - Proceed as described described in in the the recipe
recipe for for A - Proceed as Top of of rump rump d à la la bourgeorse bourgeoise
(see (see below). below). Top CONTRE-FILET FRorD FROID Contre-filet cold, cold,
with with various various salads. salads. coNTRE-FTLET Contre-filet GARNI - Arrange
Arrange as as described, described for for Contre-filet Contre-filet jellied
jellied (see (see cARNI

104 t04
BEEF
(Cr6ole cookery). BOEUF Ln CRÉOLE la Créole BoEtIF A cnfore i la Cr6ole (Créole
Beef à À LA a casserole, a tablespoon of olive olive oil into a Put some fat and a
for as for and add 2 sliced onions. Cut the beef in large pieces as Beef ragottts
(see below), and put them on this bed of of onions. Bee! ragoûts garlic, a a clove
of garlic, a sprig Add a a tablespoon tomato sauce, sauce, a Add few pinches of
saffron. and a a few saffron. Cook and parsley and of thyme thyme and for 3 hours
with the lid on. The beef and the onions gently for juice, but if if at the end of
cooking cooking the juice give out juice, juice becomes Ifthere ofwater water or
stock. If there too concentrated, add a few drops of is too much it down. mu ch
sauce, boil boil it BoEUF is prepared Daube of beef. DAUBE DE BOEUF - This old dish
is in different ways in different regions. in different in different regions.
Basically, it consists (q.v.) in braising a daubière daubiire (q. of a piece of
beef, beef, cooked in in a v.) in a piece wine added to it. In some provinces
liquor, with white or red wine whole, is cooked who le, in the meat (usually taken
from the rump) is escalopes. others it is cut into square pieces or thick
escalopes. others Prepared in this way, the daubes are very similar sirnilar to
Braised Prepared beef. I'ancienne. DAUBE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF À A l'nNcrsNNB i
l'ancienne. Daube of beef à L'ANCIENNE (strips of salt a piece rump with with thick
thick lardoons lardoons (strips piece of rump - Lard a pork) for a a few few hours
in white and marinate marinate for hours in white wine wine and pork) and with
sliced carrots and and onions, brandy, sliced carrots onions, parsley, brandy,
together together with parsley, asfor leaf and pounded garlic. Proceed as for Top
rump thyme, bay leaf (see below). la bearnaise. DE BOEUF BoEUF À A LA ra BÉARsfeni
la Daube of beef à béarnaise. DAUBE DE (4+ lb.) beef, taken from rump or shoulder
NAIsE NAISE - Cut 2 kg. (4} each of these of beef, into 5-cm. (2-inch) square
pieces. Lard each (strip of salt pieces with a a thick thick lardoon (strip salt
pork), which has pork), which garlic, seasoned and garlic, been rolled rolled in in
chopped parsley and seasoned with been powdered thyme with brandy. leaf, and and
bay leaf, and sprinkled sprinkled with thyme and Leave to 2 hours to marinate for 2
hours in in red red wine wine and and brandy, Leave marinate for and onions, a a
sprig of parsley with sliced carrots and parsley and thyme, daubiire (q.v.) with
slices and a a bay leaf. Line a a daubière and slices of Bayonne and sliced ham,
alternating with with layers layers of of carrots carrots and ha m, alternating
ions sliced on onions which have lightly fried fried in lard or goose fat. fat. Dry
the have been lightly in lard which pieces of beef, dredge with flour, flour, and
and put them in in layers layers in dredge with garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Bring the
stock daubidre. Add a a bouquet garni the the daubière. stoek in which the was
marinated marinated to add 2 the meat was to the the boil. 2 cru crushed which
boil, add shed and simmer for 25 minutes. Strain and pour cloves of garlic, and
meat. There should enough liquor liquor to cover the over the meat. should be
enough meat completely; completely; if not, not, add add a a few few tablespoons
meat meat stock. meat stock. daubiire with with a a lid, lid, sealing it with with
a strip Cover Cover the the daubière sealing it strip of flour-and-water paste.
Bring to the flour-and-water the boil on top of the the stove, maintaining an even
heat, for for4 then cook in the oven, maintaining 4 hours. in the having first
flrst removed removed the daubiire, having Serve Serve in the daubière, the bouquet
garni and and skimmed off surplus fat. garni B6arn, this daube is served with broyo
instead instead of bread. In Béarn,

(Iarousse) Preparation Preparation of contre-filet contre-filet (Larousse)

artichoke hearts, harda salad, below). Serve with with a below). salad, stuffed
artichoke boiled eggs, boiled eggs, lettuce hearts, etc. LA GELÉE cBI-Er À LA
Contre-filet jeUied. CONTRE-FILET coNTRE-FILET A Contre-filet jellied. - Useful for
serving left-over pieces of roast contre-filet. Trim the piece, coat with with
slightly coloured jelly, garnish with coloured strong strong aspic jelly, cro0tons
round and put jelly chopped jelly jelly and watercress, and jelly croûtons and
watercress,
the border of of the serving servine dish.

Contre-filet Contre-filet

garnishes. CONTRE-FILET Contre-filet cARNI coNtne-FILET GARNI Contre-filet with

with garnishes. - The method of for this meat. For For their their method following
following are are suitable this meat. suitable for (Those followed preparation
followed by preparation see by the GARNISHES. (Those see GARNISHES. (b) are letter
letter (b) are suitable for Braised contre-filet. suitable for B i atr ix,
bouquetière, Algérienne, b ou que t ii r e, ienne, alsacienne als ac ienne (b),
anversoise, anv e r s o is e, Béatrix, Algir (b), Br bourguignonne Brillat-Savarin,
chdt elaine, illat - Savar in, bruxelloise, brux e lloise, châtelaine, bour
guignonne (b), du che s s e, fav or it e, chipolata chipolata sausages (b),
Clamart, C lamar t, dauphine, duchesseJavorite, (b), fr ang ai s e,
hongroise,jardinière, I angu e do c i e nn e, flamande amande '(b),jrançaise, h o
ng r o i s e, j ar d inii r e, languedocienne, fl (b), macédoine, (b), lyonnaise
lorraine marqichire, mentonlorraine (b), lyonnaise (b), macidoine, maraÎchère,
naise, piémontaise, nivernaise, orientale, piimontaise, naise, moderne, moderne,
niçoise, nigoise, nivernaise, por r omaine, sarde. portugaise, pritanière,
provençale, ov engale, Richelieu, Riche lieu, romaine, tugaise, pr itanii r e, pr
The contre-filet can can also be served with buttered or braised pasta green
vegetables, potatoes, macaroni ta green macaroni and and other other pas
vegetables, potatoes, pur6e of dried products, rich pilaf, risotto, and dried
vegetables. rich pilaf, and purée gratin. COQUILLES DE BOEUF BoEUF Coquilles
(scallop sheUs) coeuILLES DE shells) au au gratin. AU with half-slices of of boiled
AU GRATIN cRATIN Line scallop scallop shells shells with - Line (see potatoes sauce
(see ltalian sauce potatoes which been coated with [tahan have been coated with
which have SAUCE). boiled beef cut up and fil! fill with thin slices slices of cold
boiled SAUCE), and and small. with cheese cheese and small. Cover Cover with with
more more sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with breadcrumbs and brown in the oven.
preparing hot and A number of recipes for and cold cold coquilles for preparing
will be found found under HORS-D'(EUVRE, Scallop Scallop shells. under HORS-
D'ŒUVRE,
105 105

provengale Daube Daube J la provençale d la

BEEF BEEF
Daube of of beef beeflii la provengale. DAUBE la provençale. o.lunr DE on BOEUF
sosur À A LA re Daube Cut the pieces, lard the beef beef into into pieœs, lard them
them and and PROVENÇALE - - Cut marinate for for 2 2 hours as described above, but
using white wine marinate hours as described above, but using white wine instead of
red and of red and adding adding 3 (scant f,cup) 3tablespoons tablespoons
(scant;\cup) oil oil to it. to il. instead pieces Drain the pieces of put them of
beef beef and and put them into into aa daubière daubiire which which Drain tbe
should be be large large enough enough to to take take al] all the the ingredients,
ingredients. Spread Spread in in should layers, alternating alternating with with
frcsh fresh bacon bacon rinds rinds eut cut into into small small dice, dice,
layers, blanched, diccd diced bacon, bacon, sliced sliced carrots, carrots, chopped
chopped onions, onions, raw raw blanched, chopped mushrooms, mushrooms, peeled
peeled and and chopped chopped tomatoes, pountomatoes, pounchopped garlic and ded
c10ves cloves of of garlic and stoned black olives. olives. Put Put a a bouquel
stoned black bouquet ded (q.v.) in garni (q.v.) in the the middle middle of of ail
all these these ingredients ingredients and, and, besides besides garni the usual
usual aromatic aromatic herbs, herbs, add add a piece of a small small piece of
bitter bitter orange orange the peel. peel. Pour the the marinating marinating
Iiquor liquor over over the the whole, whole, add add some some Pour veal stock,
stock, and and coyer, cover, sealing lid with sealing the the lid with a a strip
flourstrip of of flourveal paste. Cook and-water paste, Cook in in a a moderate
moderate oyen for 5 oven for 5 or or 6 6 hours. hours. and-water Serve in in the
the daubière, daubiire, having having !irst first removed removed the the bvuquel
bouquet Serve garni and and skimmed skimmed off offsurplus fat. garni surplus fat.
Entrec0te or or Steak Steak Entrecbte is part of is the the part of the the meat
meat - Entrecôte Entrecôte between the the bones bones of ribs of of the the ribs
of beef. beef. A A slice slice ta from taken between ken from the con/refile!
contre-filet or from the or from the rUll]p rump is is often often served served
under under this this the name. name. The real real entrecôte entrecite is grilled;
a is usually usually grilled; a slice slice of of contrefile/, contre-filet, The
often called called rump rump steak steak in in France, France, is is sometimes
sometimes fried fried in in often butter. butter. These steaks generally boned
steaks are are generally boned before grilled. before being being grilled, These
pieces are When the the pieces are thick, thick, however, however, rib rib bones
bones are are left left on. on. When Grilled. Trim Trim and and flatten flatten the
the steak, steak, brush with butter butter or or Grilled. brush with oil, season
season and and cook cook under grill, tirst under a a grill, first on on a a brisk
brisk and and then then on on oil, a lowered lowered hea!. heat. Arrange Arrange
and and serve serve as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. a
Sautded. Trim Trim and and flatten flatten the the steak, steak, season season il
it and and sauté saut6 Sautéed. briskly in butter. Arrange and garnish as and
garnish indicated in as indicated in the the briskly in butter. Arrange juices Ieft
recipe. Pour Pour over over it it the the pan left over over from frying, rectpe.
pan Juices from frying, having diluted them and finished as described described in
having diluted them and tinished off off as in the the recipe. recipe. In steak
taken confie-filet, ln France, France, a a steak taken from from ribs ribs of of
beef, beef, or or con/refile/, (about I g. (about of 500 g. considered sufficient
sufficient for of 400 400 to to 500 1 lb.) lb.) is is considered for four four
persons. persons. Entrec0te Steak i Entrecôte or or Steak à la la b6arnaise
béarnaise - Grill Grill the the steak, steak, and and garnish (see POTATOES) and
watergarnish with with Chdteau Château potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES) and
water(s*, cress. Serve Bdarnaise sauce SAUCE) cress, Serve Béarnaise sauce (sec
SAUCE) separately. separately. EntrecOte Entrecôte or or Steak Steak I à la la
Bercy Bercy - Grill Grill the the steak steak and and cover coyer with with Bercy
Bercy butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters).
butters) , .Grand-mlre'Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak i à la la bonne
bolll.le femme, femme, or or 'Grand-mère' Saut€ Saute the the steak steak in in
butter, butter, browning browning on on both both sides. sides. Surround Surround
it glazed onions, it in in the the pan pan with with 12 12 small small glazed
onions, 2 2 blanched blanched potatoes potatoes cut eut small, small, and and 50 50
g. g, (2 (2 oz.') oz.) diced diced and and blanched blanched salt salt pork pork or
or bacon. bacon. Cook Cook all ail together. together. Arrange Arrange in in an an
earthenware earthenware dish, dish, with with the the garnish garnish surrounding
surrounding it. il. Dilute Dilute the the butter butter left left in in the the pan
pan with with + ±dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seanl * t cup) cup)
stock stock or or water water and and pour pour over over the the dish. dish,
Sprinkle Sprinkle with witb chopped chopped parsley. parsley, Entrec0te la
bordelaise Entrecôte or or Steak Steak iàla bordelaise - Grill Grill the the steak.
steak. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish dish and and place place l0 10 slices sJices
of of poached poached and and drained drained bone bone marrow marrow on on top.
top. Serve Serve with with Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE).
SAUCE). The The steak steak can can also also be be served served saut6ed, sautéed,
with with the the pan pan juices juices added added to to the the sauce. sauce.
Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak ià la la bourguignonne bourguignonne - Sautd
Sauté the the entreentrecdte in butter, butter, and and garnish garnisb d à la la
bourguignonne bourguignonne (see (sec GARGARcôte in NISHES). NISHES), Dilute Dilute
the the pan pan juices juices with with I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons,
scant seant ]1cup) cup) red red wine, wine, add add I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) cup) demi-glace demi-glace (q.v.), (q,v.), boil
boil down, down, strain strain and and pour pour over over the the dish. dish.
Entrec6te or Steak Entrecôte or Steak Dumas Dumas -- Season Season and and cook
cook conte-filet contre-filet steaks steaks over over a a high high heat. hea!. Lay
Lay them them on on a a heated heated meat roeat plate plate and and place place 3
3 slices slices of of previously previously cooked cooked beef beef marrow marrow
on on each. each. . Make a sauce with the residue Make a sauce with the residue
left left in in the the pan pan by by adding adding I1dl. * cup) dl. (6 (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! cup) dry dry white whitewine wine and and
2table2 tablespoons spoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped cbopped
shallots. shal.lots. Boil Boil down down by by
pRovENqALE
106 106

three-quarters. Pour (6 tablespoons, Pour in in 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant}

scant * cup) cup) three-quarlers. veal stock stock and and bring bring to to the
the boil. boil. Boil Boil for for one one minute, minute. Add Add veal (4oz., g. (4
100g. oz., ± cup) butter butter and and season season to to taste, taste. 100 *
cup) Sprinkle Ihe the steaks pepper and steaks wilh with pepper and chopped chopped
parsley. parsley. Sprinkle Coat with with the (Recipe from the sauce sauce and and
serve. serve. (Recipe from the the Restaurant Restaurant Coat Lasserre.) Lasserre,)
Entrec0te or or Steak Steak à la Ia fermière fermilre - Prepare Prepare Steak Steak
à d la la Entrecôte bonne femme, replacing the garnish indicated the garnish
indicated for for that recipe that recipe bonne femme, replacing by I! l{ dl. pint,
dl. (! (see FONDUE). cup) Vege/able Vegetable fondue FONDUE). t, j3 cup) by $ pin
fondue (see juices, diluted Pour over pan juices, over il it the the pan diluted
with with white white wine wine and and Pour thickened veal veal stock. stock.
thickened Entrec0te or or Steak Steak à la la forestière forestilre - Prepare
Prepare Steak Steak wi/h with Entrecôte (see below), mushrooms 1 I or or JJ II (see
below), replacing replacing the the mushrooms mushrooms by by mushrooms garnish
called the garnish called à (see GARNISHES). d laforestière la forestiCre (see
GARNISHES). the Entrec6te or or Steak Steak à I la Ia hongroise hongroise Season
the the steak steak with with Entrecôte - Season paprika, and and sauté saut6 it it
in in butter. butter. When When three-quarters three-quarters done, done, paprika,
add a a tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped anion, onion, lightly fried fried in
in butter butter and and add juices with with salt paprika. Dilute seasoned with
salt and and paprika. Dilute the pan juices the pan with seasoned (6 tablespoons, 1
dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant (6 cup) white scant t white wine, wine, add add 1 I
dl. dl. (6 1 * cup) tablespoons, scant (se, SAUCE). scant ± cup) thin thn Velouté
Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). tablespoons, * cup) Cook for for a a few few
moments and and pour pour over over the the steak. steak. Serve Serve Cook with
boiled potatoes. boiled potatoes. wilh Entrecdte or or Steak Steak à la la
lyonnaise lyonnaise 1 I Sauti: Saut6 the the steak in steak in Entrecôte butter.
When When three-quarters three-quarters done, (3 done, add add 2 2 Lablespoons
tablespoons (3 butter. tablespoons) chopped on lightly fried onion fried in in
butter. butter. Dilute tablespoons) ion lightly juices wilh pan juices the pan with
1 I tablespoon tablespoon vinegar and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 the tablespoons)
white white wine, (6 tablespoons, wine, add add 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant
scant t Lablespoons) crtp\ demi-glace (q.v.); (q.v.); bail boil down, add a a
tablespoon chopped cup) parsley pour over the steak. and pour parsley and Entrec0te
or or Steak Steak à la la lyonnaise lyonnaise il tr - Cook Cook as as above.
Entrecôte juices with vinegar Dilute tbe the pan vinegar and white wine. Add stock,
Dilute pan jlliœs and (see BUTTER, the sauce sauce with wirth Kneaded buller butter
(see BUTTER, and thicken thicken the Compound bUl/ers). butters). Compound
Entrec0te or Steak maltre d'hOtel Grill the steak. Serve Entrecôte or maître
d'hôtel - Grill the steak. with (see BUTTER, d'hbtel buller butter (see BUTTER,
Compound Compound Maître d'hôtel with Mattre butters\., bUl/ers) Entrec0te or Steak
Steak marchand Grill the Entrecôte marchand .de .de vin vin - Grill the steak.
steak, (see BUTTER, Serve Serve with with Marchandde Marchand de vinbutter vin
buller (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). EntrecO& Entrecôt~ or or
Steak à la la m6nag0re ménagère - Prepare as as Entrecite En/recôte d à la la bonne
bonne femne. femme. Replace the garnish in in that Ihat recipe by by an equal equal
quantity quantity of of small smaU glazed glazed onions, onions, mushrooms
mushrooms and cooked cooked carrots. carrots, Pour Pour the the pan pan juices,
juices, diluted dilllted with with white white wine wine and and thickened
thickened veal veal stock, over the the dish. dish. Enhec0te Entrecôte or Steak
Steak I à la minute minute - Flatten Flatten the the steak steak to to make make it
it as as thin thin as as possible. possible. Season and saut6 sauté in butter.
butter. Add a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice juice and and half half a
a tablespoon tablespoon of of chopped chopped parsley parsley to to the the butter
butter in in which which it it was was cooked and pour pour over the the steak.
steak. Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak Mirabeau Mirabeau - Grill Grill the
the steak. steak. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish, dish, decorate decorate with with
anchovy anchovy fillets !illets and and tarragon tarragon leaves, leaves, garnish
garnish with with stoired, stoned, blanched blanched olives olives and and serve
serve with with Anchovv Anchovy butter butters) buller (see (see BUTTER. BUTTER.
Co,mpound Compound butters). Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak with witil
mushrooms musbrooms I. J. ENTREcOTE ENTRECÔTE AUx AUX cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS -
Saut6 Sauté the the steak steak in in butter. butter. When When threethreequarters
quarters done, done, add add 8 8 mushroom mushroom caps, caps, and and finish
finish cooking. cooking. Arrange Arrange the the mushrooms mllshrooms around around
the the meat meal on on a a dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the butter butter left
left in in the the pan pan with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons,
scant scant + ! cup) cup) white white wine, wine, add add I1 dl. dl. (6 (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant + ± cup) cup) demi-glace demi-glace (q.v-),
(q.v.), boil boil down, down, strain, strain, add add a a teaspoon teaspoon fresh
fresb butter, butter, and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. Entrec6te
Entrecôte or or Steak Steak with with mushrooms mushrooms II. n. eNrnrc0TE
ENTRECÔTE AUx AUX cHAMIIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS - Proceed Proceed as as above. above.
Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add
add stock stock and and thicken thicken with with Kneaded Kneaded butter buller
(see (sec BUTTER, BUTIER, Compound Compound butters). bullers). Entrec0te Entrecôte
or or Steak Steak ià la la nigoise niçoise - Saut6 Sauté the the steak steak in in
butter butter or or oil. oil. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish, dish, garnish garnish
with with Tomato Tomalofondue fondue d à la la nigoise niçoise (see (sec TOMATO),
TOMA TO), new new potatoes pOLatoes cooked cooked in in butter. butter, and and

i
-

-
BEEF

BEEF

(Rober t Carrier) MAabeatt (Robert Entrecote Mirabeau Entrecôte Carrier)

and juices with wine and white wine with white pan juices the pan Dilute the black
olives. Dilute black olives. steak' pour over the steak. over tbe and pour veal
stock, stock, and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal top steak, top Grill the
the steak, la tyrolienne tyrolienre -- Grill i la Entrecôte Steak à or Steak
Entrec0te or of a border border of with a surround witb in butter, butter, surround
fried in with ion rings rings fried onion with on chopped with chopped sprinkle
with and sprinkle FONDUE), and Tomato fondue (see FONDUE), Tomatofondui(see
parsley. parsley. ' Entrecôte garnish the steak, steak, garnish Grill the vert-pre
-- Grill au vert-pré or Steak Steak au EnhecOte or waterof waterbunches of with
bunches alternating with potatoes alternating with with straw straw potatoes (see
BUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see d hiltel butter Mattre d'hôtel with Maître cress, and
serve serve with cress, and Compound butters). Compound butters). (Austrian
cookery) cookery) -viennoise (Austrian la viennoise Entrecôte Steak ài la or Steak
Entrec0te or and salt and with salt season with thoroughly, season flatten
thoroughly, Beat to fiatten the steak steak to Beat the Covel lard'Cover in lard.
briskly in and sauté saut6 briskly flour, and with flour, paprika, paprika, dredge
dredge with drained, lard, drained, in lard, fried in been fried have been which
bave with rings which wiih onion onion rings vinegar. and vinegar. and butter and
with butter dressed with and dressed potatoes separately. separately. Serve boiled
potatoes Serve boiled meat Concentrated meat BoEUF - - Concentrated DEBOEUF mseNcn
DE Beef essence. ESSENCE Beef essence. (seebelow). below)' Beef-tea(see juice under
Beef-tea described juice prepared as described under prepared as - Filets mignons -
These ofthe the endof theend from the taken from cutsare aretaken Filets mignons -
Thesecuts triggle; of atriangle; shapeofa theshape intothe trimmed into is trimmed
fillet. migilonis fillet. Tbefilet Thelle tmignon too Ifititisistoo fillet'If
thefillet. ofthe sizeof totbe thesize its varies according according to itsweight
weighivaries twofilets provide two thusprovide andthus intwo twoand filets big,
dividedin itcan canbe bedivided big, it mignons. mignons. forthe the usedfor·
beused alsobe canalso ofbeef beefcan Tbis filletof partof thefillet Thispart oftbe
qtick pilafsand andquick bitki,pilafs onskewers, skewers,bitki, preparation
pt"pataiion of steakon ofsteak sautés. saut6s. dip it,dip seasonit, slightly,season
mignonslightly, Grilled. thefilet Flattenthe Gritted.Flatten filetmignon pressing
breadcrumbs, pressing withbreadcrumbs, coverwith andcover into butterand
meltedbutter intomelted breadcrumbs thebreadcrumbs makethe tomake knifeto partof
theknife with ofthe flatpart withthe thefiat under cook and butterand meltedbutter
withmelted adhere cook under properfu.Sprinkle Sprinklewith adhereproperly.
recommended garnishand andsauce sauce aa low Serve with garnish recommended the
withthe grill.-Serve lowgrill. the inbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, the cooked in fillet
cooked in filletisis the recipe.As Asthe inthe therecipe.
107 107

served separately' be served it should should be accompanying it sauce accompanying

sauce separately. piattin it"Ttet mignon, season' and saut6 briskly Sautied.
Flatten Sautéed. thefilet mignon, season, and sauté briskly recommended sauce and
the garnish a with a garnish and the sauce recommended Serve with in butter.
butter. Serve in recipe. in the in the recipe. ways suitable for enin ways prepared
in be prepared car. be mignon can Filet mignon Filet suitable for enescalopes of
veal, for escalopes cuts, for other cuts, and other steaks and rump steaks
treciltes, rump trecôtes, of veal, do s. t ourne and tournedos. noise tte sand
noisettes lard and en cheweuil - Trirn, flatten slightly, mignons en Filets mignons
Filets chevreuil - Trim, flatten slightly, and lard them in a rosette inserting
bacon, of with strips the fillets the fillets with strips of bacon, inserting them
in a rosette 24 to 28 hours in the summer' fot 24 pattern. Leave to marinate
marinate for Leave to pattern'. to 28 ho urs in thesummer, (see MARINADES)' winter
inthe thewin days in from 33to to44days from ter (see MARINADES). and dry them in a
marinadeand the marinade of the out of fiiletsout Take the the fillets Take dry
them in a in clarified butter or oil' possible quickly as as Saut6 cloth. clotho
Sauté as quickly as possible in clarified butter or oil. andsauce sauce recommended
in the recipe' garnishand withthè thegarnish Serve with recommended in the recipe.
Serve garnishes for appropriate garnishes most appropriate arethe the most
following are The following The for chestnuts, onions' They can lentils,chestnuts,
celeriac, lentils, enchevreuil: chevreuil: celeriac, fileten filet onions. They can
pilaf' risotto, noodles, rice dried noodles, ordried freshor with fresh also be
beserved servedwith also rice pilaf, risotto, etc. etc. prepared au chausseur, d la
be also can chevreuil Filetsen enchevreuil can also be prepared au Filets
chausseur, à la en venison, etc' laromaine, romaine, en poivrade à lapoivrade,
hongroise , , dla hongroise, àdla venison, etc. BoEUF - The fillet is the undercut
of DEBOEUF rtt.srDE beei.FILET Filletof ofbeef. Fillet - The fillet is the undercut
of used for making tournedos and fillet of the end The sirloin. sirloin. Tbe end of
the fillet isisused for making tournedos and the fat and sinews afterthe
fillet,after of the middle The mignons. filetsmignons. The middle of the fiIlet,
filets fat and sinews delicate roasts' or, cut anddelicate tenderand makestender
removed, makes havebeen beenremoved, bave roasts, or, cut fillet,less delicate in
ofthe the topof grills.The Thetop deliciousgrills. intoslices, slices,delicious
into fillet, less delicate in roasted or grilled. middle,isis the thanthe more
sinewythan taste,more sinewy middle, roasted or grilled. taste, Cut into thick
sinews' andsinews. skinand removingskin fillet,removing thefillet, Trimthe Trirn
Cut into thick as grilled fillet, chateaubriand, a as be servedas a chateaubriand,
as tobe slices slices ififititisis to served grilled fillet, mignon. or
tournedos,or filetmignon. tournedos, filet and lard it with filletand thefillet
trimthe whole,trirn biserved servedwhole, Ifititisistotobe If lard it with rashers
and secure with withrashers bard orbard bacon;or ofbacon; stripsof thinstrips tbin
with and secure with accordfry orbraiseit, a spit, on or oven the doast'itin
string. string. Roastit in the oven or on a spit, fry or braise it, accord-
BEEF BEEF
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Division of a fil let of beef: ')lt",l".""|il'l:"'"'ifii,,.,.,""*., 1. Beefsteak;

2. Chateaubriand; 3. Fillet steaks; 4. Tournedos; Filetsmignons mignons 4.
Tournedos; s.5.Filets

,."**,*fl

Filletof ofbeef perigorudire.FILET beef rnrrDE nrBOEUF soeuF rA, Fillet à i

lalapérigourdine. ÀA LA pfnrcounolNe -Insert Insertslivers slivers of intothe
trufreinto the fillet,bard bard of truffte fillet, it,tie tiewith withstring
stringand andbraise braise Madeira-flavoured braising braising it, inin Madeira-
flavoured stock.Drain, Drain,remove removebarding bardingbacon glaze. baconand and
glaze. Surround stock. Surround withslices grastossed slicesoffoie of foiegras in
tossed butter,and and tartlets filled with with in butter, tartlets filled with
(q.v.)of salpicon(q.v.) oftruffles. trufles.Boil Boildown downthe the
braisingliquor, braising aasalpicon liquor, pourover strain,and andpour overthe
thefillet. fillet. strain, pRrNcE Filletof ofbeef beef hinceAJbert. Albert.FILET
FrLET DE BoETJF ALBERT FiUet Prince DE BOEUF PRINCE ALBERT Lardaatrimmed
trimmedfillet filletof ofbeef beefwith withthin thinstrips stripsof - - Lard
ofbacon. bacon. Slitthe thefillet filletopen openwithout withoutcompletely
completely separatingthe Slit separating thetwo two
PÉRIGOURDINE -

for braising, braising, frying, frying, roasting, roasting, under under CULINAR
CULINARY y for METHODS. METHOOS. When the fillet is cooked, untie thestring and
remove string and removethe the Wh en the fillet is cooked, untie the barding.
Arrange Arrange on on aa heated heateddish, dish, surround surround with with the
garthe garbarding. nish indicated, indicated, and juice or and serve serve with
with its its own own juice or the the sauce sauce nish recommended. recommended.
Fillet of of beef bed with garnish. FILET with garnish. FrLET DE DE BOEUF BoErrF
GARNI cARNr - - For For Fillet various gamishes garnishes suitable suitable for for
fillet fillet of of beef, beef, fried fried or or roast, roast, various see
GARNISHES. GARNISHES. In In the the following following list list of of recommended
recommended see garnishes, those those followed followed by (f) are by the the
letter letter (f) are intended intended for for garnishes, fried fillets; fillets;
the the others others are are suitable suitable both both for for fried fried and
and roast roast fried fillets. fillets. Anver soise, Béatrix, B datr ix,
bouquetière, bouquetiir e, Brillat-Savarin, Brillat- Savarin,
bruxelbruxelAnversoise, loise, châtelaine (f), Clamart, chdtelaine (f), Clamart,
dauphine, dauphine, duchesse, duchesse, favorite, loise, favorite, (f), forestière,
(f), Frascati (f\, Godard Frascati ([), financiire (f), Godard forestiire,
française frangaise (f), financière (f), hongroise, jardiniire, italienne
hongroise, jardinière, (f), languedocienne, italienne (f), Ianguedocienne, (f),
macidoine, massenet (f), mentonnaise mossenet ([), (f), milanaise mentonnaise (f),
(f), milanaise (f), macédoine, (f), niçoise moderne ([), (f), nivernaise nigoise
(f), (f), orientale, nivernare (f), parisienne, orientale, parisienne, moderne
piimontaise (f), portugaise, portugaise, printanière, printaniire, provençale
provengale (f), (f), piémontaise (f), renaissance (f), (f), Richelieu, Richelieu,
romaine (f), Romanov romaine ([), (f), sarde Romanov (f), sarde renaissance (f),
Saint-Germain, Saint-Germain, viennoise (f). viennoise (f). (f), Fried or or roast
roast fillet fi.llet of of beef beef can can also also be be accompanied
accompanied by by Fried buttered or braised vegetables, potatoes potatoes and
pur6es of and purées of buttered or braised vegetables, various vegetables.
vegetables. These These purées pur6es should be served separately. siparately.
various Fillet of beef London "ouse. House. FILET FrLEr DE DE BOEUF BoEUF LONDON
LoNDoN Filletof beef London prince Albert (see HousE This is same as (see below).
HOUSE - This is the the saille as Fillet Fil/et Prince Fitlet MArrcNoN -- Lard Lard
Fillet of of beef beef Matignon. Matignon. FrLEr FILET DE DE BoEUF BOEUF MATIGNON a
of tongue (salt beef d l'écarlate l'icarlate (salt beef tongue) a fillet fillet
with with pieces pie ces of tongue à (see and truffies cut into (see OFFAL OFF AL
or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS), MEATS), and strips. of matignon (q.v.), in wide,
strips. Cover Coyer with with a a layer layer of (q.v.), wrap in thin strine. thin
rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, and and secure secure with with string.
METHODS). Put into into a a braising braising pan pan (see (see CULINAR:Y CULINAR y
METHOOS). _ _Fut Moisten I hour. Moisten with with Madeira, Madeira, and and cook
cook with with the lid !id on for 1 Drain and matignon. Drain the the fillet,
fillet, remove rem ove the the bacon bacon rashers rashers and matignon. Glaze
Glaze the the fillet fillet in in the the oven, oyen, arrange arrange on a dish
dish on a cro0ton croûton of fried fried bread. bread. Surround with garnish
garnish d à la matignon. Strain the braising braising .. Surround with liquor, skim
off off surplus surplus fat, fa t, pour pour a a little litt le of of the the sau""
sauce aro.rnJ around liquor, skim the the fillet fillet and and serve serve the the
rest rest separately. separately.
Jl-lliiii.lr1

ing to to the the recipe recipechosen. chosen. Follow Follow the thespecial special
instructions instructions ing

halves. halves. Fillthe theinside insidewith pieces withpie gras,seasoned

ofuncooked uncooked foie Fill ces of seasoned foiegras, andstudded piecesof with
pieces studdedwith oftruffles. truffies.Close Closethe and thefillet, fillet,tie
with tiewith string, and andbrown brown in inaahot hotoyen. oven.Put Putinto intoa
abraising string, pan braisingpan withthe the ingredients ingredients given givenin
inthe therecipe recipefor with forFillet Filletof ofbeef beef Matignon.Moisten
Moistenwith port,cook withport, Matignon. cookin inthe theoyen, oven,and
andcomcompleteas asdescribed described in inthe theabove-mentioned above-mentioned
recipe. plete recipe.Surround Surround withPrince Prince Albert (largetruffles
Albertgarnish garnish(large with truffiescooked cooked in inMadeira) Madeira) and
mushroom mushroom caps capscooked cooked in inbutter. and butter. Thisfillet
filletofbeefis of beef isalso known as alsoknown This asPrince Prince ofWales. of
Wales. Fillet of of beef beefon onskewers. skewers. BROCHETTES BRocHETTEsDE Fillet
DEFILET FrLErDE DEBOEUF BoEUF- Prepared in in the the same same way wayas asFil/ets
Prepared Fillets of ofmullon muttonon skewers onskewers (seeMUTION), MUTTON), using
usingsquares (see squares of of fillet filletbeef, piecesof beef, pieces of
blanched and and fried fried Jean lean bacon, bacon, and blanched and mushrooms.
mushrooms. Cold fillet fillet of of beef. beef. FILET FrLEr DE DEBOEUF Cold lets
BoEUF FROID FRorD- - Cold Cold beef beeffil fillets garnished with can be be
garnished with various variousvegetables, can vegetables, boiled, boiled,drained,
drained, allowed to to cool cool and and mixed jelly. They allowed mixed with with
half-set half-setaspic aspicjelly. They can also also be garnished with be
garnished can with various various mousses. mousses. Full instructions instructions
for for these preparations, as Full these preparations, asweil wellas asaa list
list of appropriate appropriate garnishes, garnishes, will of will be be found
found under under the the entry entrv COLD FOOOSTUFFS. FOODSTUFFS. COLO Jellied
cold cold fillet Jellied fillet of of beef. beef. FILET FrLEr DE DE BOEUF BoEuF
FROID FRorD À A LA u GELÉE cnrEr This method method is -- This mostly applied is
mostly applied to pot-roasted or left-over pot-roasted to left-over or roasted
fillet. fillet. If If the piece is roasted le, the piece is big big enough enough
to to he beserved served who whole, jelly and cover it it with with aspic coyer
aspic jelly jelly and and decorate decorate with with chopped chopped jelly and
watercress. Or watercress. it into Or cut cut it into thin garnish with thin slices
slices and and garnish with chopped chopped jelly and and watercress. watercress.
jelly The fillet fillet can can also The also be be trimmed placed whole trimmed
and and placed whole in in a a shalshallow serving serving dish, dish, and low and
covered covered completely completely with with meat meat aspic aspic jelly
flavoured with jelly flavoured with Madeira, Madeira, port port or or sherry.
sherry. green or Serve a a green Serve or a a vegetable vegetable salad salad with
with the the fillet, fillet, as as weil well as Rémoulade, Tartare, etc. as a a
cold cold sauce: sauce: Mayonnaise, Mayonnaise,Rimoulade,Tartqre, (see etc. (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Cold fillet fiIlet of beef à I la la niçoise. nigoise. FILET FrLET
DE DE BOEUF BoEUF FROID rnon À A LA r.q, NIÇOISE NrgorsE Roast or pot-roast the or
pot-roast fillet, keeping the fillet, keeping it it a a little little - Roast
underdone. Leave underdone. Leave to get quite quite cold. to get cold. Line a
mould Line a mould with with jelly, decorated tarragon-flavoured tarragon-flavoured
jelly, decorated with with truffles, pieces of truffies, pieces of hard-boiled
hard-boiled egg white, and and tarragon Ieaves leaves which have have been been
blanched, dipped in cold cold water and and dried. dried. Put Put in in the fillet,
the fillet, fil 1 the mould with jelly, jelly, and fill and leave leave to to set
ice, or set on on ice, in the or in the refrigerator. Turn Turn out out onto onto a
a dish, dish, on on a a foundation foundation of of jelly. tarragon-flavoured
tarragon-flavoured

Special braising braising pan pan for for fillets fillets (D (Dehillerin. PhOf.
Larousse) Larousse) Special ehillerin. Phot.

108 108
BEEF BEEF
Marinate Marinate 12 12 small sm aU tomatoes tomatoes in in oil, oil, vinegar,
vinegar, salt salt and pepper, pepper, remove remove the the insides, insides, and
and stuffwith stuff with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) truffies. Stuff 12 12
artichoke artichoke hearts hearts with with green asparagus asparagus of trufres.
tips; tips; place place these these round round the the beef. beef. Garnish Gamish
further further with stoned stoned olives stuffed stuffed with with Anchovy Anchovy
butter buller (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound olives butters). butters). Put
a a little chopped chopped jelly jelly between between each group of of garnish and
decorate decorate the the edge of of the the dish with with jelly jelly cro0tons.
croûtons. and Cold fiIlet fillet of beef beef i à la la parisienne. FrLEr FILET DE
DE BoEUF BOEUF FRorD FROID Cold A À r,,c, LA pARTSTENNE PARlSIENNE - Pot-roast Pot-
roast or roast the the fillet and leave Jeave to jelly. Arrange on a dish, or cool.
Trim, dry, and coat with jelly. on a buttered buttered cro0ton croûton ofbread,
ofbread, or on on a foundation foundation ofcooked of cooked on rice. rice.
Surround with with small timbales of Macidoine Macédoine of vege,tables .tables
(see (see MACEDOINE). MACÉDOINE). Decorate Decorate the tbe disb dish with jelly
croûtons. Serve with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce (see SAUCE). cro0tons. Cold fillet
of beef beef I à la russe. russe. FrLET FILET DE DE BoEUF BOEUF A À rA LA m.rsss
RUSSE Cook the the fillet as as described described in the the recipe recipe for
Coldfillet of ofbeef beef Cook à la la parisienne parisienne and leave to get cold.
cold . Cut out the central part, d leaving only a 'frame', with a narrow strip of
about 4 to 5 5 leaving cm .Q (2 inches) at each eacb end. Cut the cut-out eut-out
meat into thin cm. and put them them back back in in the the hollowed-out meat
case, slices, and slices, pressing pressing them them in in tightly. tightly. Cover
Coyer with with Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured truffles added. aspic jelly
which has had chopped trufres fillet on a bread croûton a bread a foundation of
Arrange the fillet cro0ton or a gamish with hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, halved
and cooked rice, and garnish hearts stuffed with vegetables covered with jelly,
artichoke hearts dressed hearts eut dressed with mayonnaise, and lettuce hearts cut
in quarters. Cold fllet fillet of beef à DE BOEUF la strasbourgeoise.
strasbourgeoise. FILET FILET DE BoEUF Cold i la FROID A À r,c, LA STRASBOURGEOISE
FRoID fillet srRA,snoLJRGEoIsE cook the fillet - Prepare and cook as in the the
recipe recipe for Fil/et of beef Prince Albert, Albert, as described described in
for Fillet studding it witb truffles instead bacon . with trufles instead of strips
of larding bacon. Leave to get cold. to get Trim the fillet and coyer port-
flavoured jelly. Arrange cover with port-flavoured on a buttered croûton cooked
ofcooked foundation of crofiton ofbread, ofbread, or on a foundation rice. rice.
Gamish Garnish with truffles truffies cooked in port, cooled and dipped jelly, and
in jelly, jelly and bunches of in of parsley. and with with chopped and bunches
chopped jelly Decorate Decorate with jelly croûtons. crofitons. Fillet cut Fillet
of beef or DÉTAlL ofuru -- Slices eut beef steaks. FILETS FILETs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF
DE off fil let ofbeef prepared in any way suitable offfillet of beef can suitable
for steaks, can be prepared rump rump steak and and tournedos. Grilled. , brush
fillet, brush with Trim and flatten tbe the fillet Grilled. Trim and slightly
slightly flatten butter or other fat, season and grill under a a brisk heat. pan in
Sautéed. in a a sauté in Sautded. Season fillet and and cook cook in saut6 pan the
fillet Season the butter. butter. Keep slightly slightly underdone. pr"rns FILETS
Sm aU fillets DE BOEUF BoEUF Small flleb of beef. beef. PETITS FTLETS DE Small
slices slices - Small of fillets methods cut a a little bigger than All the the
methods fillets eut than tournedos. Ali

Small fillets fillel s ri à la nigoise niçoise (lzronsse) (Larousse)

Grilled lets Grilled small small fil fillets

of of cooking cooklng given for tournedos are applicable to small fillets. BoEUF A
PETITs FILETs nigoise. PETITS i la niçoise. Small Sm ail fillets of beef à FILETS
pe DE BOEUF À and place LA NIgoIsE Saut€ the fillets in butter, drain them and
NIÇOISE - Sauté place middle Fill the the middle fried in a croûton crofiton of
bread fried on a each on in butter. butter. Fill qooked French beans dressed with
butter, dressed with of the dish with cooked a little little heap heap of small
potatoes and place between each fillet a (or potato balls) cooked in in butter.
juices with white wine, add Tomato fon&te add TomaLO Dilute the pan juices fondue
chopped tarragon, FONDUE) flavoured with garlic and cbopped (see FONDUE) anchovy
and pour the sauce over the fillets. Top with rolled ancbovy and with chopped
chopped parsley. fillets and and sprinkle with fillets FORCEMEAT. Beef forcemeat
for agnolotti Beefforcemeat T. - See FORCEMEA pnr-os-cOrn -- Top part of of the the
rib, Top part flank. PLAT-DE-CÔTE Forequarter flank. generally used for tbe the
stockpot. generally can be be poached in brine for several days, it can After
pickling in with and served aromatics, and served hot with and aromatics, in water
with vegetables and green cabbage, garnish: braised braised green red cabbage,
cabbage, braised a garnish: braised red a pur6es of fresh fresh or dried
vegetables. and purées butter beans, and and can can be making stews, for making
stews, and also be be used used for This eut cut can can also This (see below). as
Pressed beef (see prepared as DE BOEUF BoEUF AVEC AvEc rnlclDELLEs DE beef.
FRICADELLES Fricadelles of of cooked cooked beef. FricadeUes (remains (l* lb.) g.
(lilb.) cooked cooked beef (remains Mince 750 750 g. culrE -- Mince vIANDE CUITE
VLANDE g. piece of mix with with 350 350 g. beef) and and mix of a a piece or
braised braised beef) of boiled boiled or (5 oz., g. (5 (12 oz., pur6e. Add 1|
potato purée. 150 g. oz., li Add 150 o2.,1| cups) thick thick potato (12 li cups) 2
wb whole eggs. Season Season bind with with 2 cups) chopped chopped onion, onion,
and and bind cups) ole eggs. well. grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and mix weil. and
grated with salt, salt, pepper and witb (4 oz.) g. (4 pieces of 100 g. Roll them
about 100 oz.) each. each. Roll them into pieces of about Divide into into thick,
and shape flat with flour, flour, and shape into thick, fiat a board on a board
sprinkled sprinkled with on and finish cooking in butter butter and finish cooking
cakes. Brown them on both sides sides in them on cakes. in in the the oyen. oven.
Piquante or Robert sauce sauce a well-spiced well-spiced sauce: or Robert with a
sauce: Piquante Serve with Serve (see SAUCE), puree. a vegetable purée. with a
SAUCE), or or with (see BoEUF AVEC rnIc.a.DELLEs DE DE BOEUF AvEc Fricadelles of of
raw raw beef. beef. FRICADELLES FricadelJes (U lb.) g. (lig. vIANDE CRUE 750 g.
lb.) lean lean beef, 250 g. cRUE -- Chop Chop together together 750 beef, 250
VIANDE (9 oz.) and add add out, and and squeezed squeezed out, oz.') decrusted
bread, soaked and (9 , soaked decrusted bread (4 oz., (12 oz., g. (4 g. (12 1 cup)
125 g. oz., 1 cup) onion onion 350 g. l] cups) cups) butter, butter, 125 oz., l-t
350 and a a tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped chopped and and lightly lightly
fried fried in in butter, butter, and chopped pepper and parsley. Bind and whole
eggs, with salt, salt, pepper Bind with with 3 3 whole eggs, season season with
parsley. grated nutmeg, and mix mix weil. well. pinch of a pinch nutmeg, and of
grated a preas described in the described in the prePrepare and and cook cook the
the fricadelles Prepare fricadelles as ceding recipe. recipe. ceding beef glaze.
GLACE concentrated beef Boil down down concentrated Beef glaze. DE BOEUF BoELJF --
Boil Beef cLACE DE stock to to a a syrupy syrupy consistency. consistency. stock
gravies andstews. glaze is and ste,ws. This glaze for flavouring flavouring sauces,
sauces, gravies is used used for This (See EXTRACTS, EXTRACTS, Meat Meat extract.)
extract.) (See (Hungarian cookery). A way way of of DE BOEUF BoEUF -- A curvs
Goulash AS DE cookery). GULY Goulash (Hongarian paprika, or (or other or with
paprika, stewing stewing beef beef (or other meat), meat), spiced spiced witb
pepper. Hungarian red red pepper. Hungarian prepared in in are prepared These
stews, in France, France, are in Hungary Hungary as as in Tbese stews, in given
below popular methods below. are given different ways. ways. Two Two popular
methods are . different

109 109
BEEF BEEF
shallot which which has has been been simmered simmeredin in aalittle little white
white wine. wine. Put Put shallot this mixture mixture on on the cro0tes. Place the
croûtes. Place the remaining marrow the remaining marrow this slices on on the the
mixture, mixture, coyer cover with withfine finebreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, season
slices season with freshly freshly ground ground pepper, pepper, and and brown
brown in inaahot hot oyen. oven. with Medallions of of beef beeffillet. fillet.
MÉDAILLONS rrlfolrr-r,oNs DE DEFILET FrLET DE DE BOEUF BoEUF - MedaUions Round
slices slices of of fillet, fillet, rather rather smaller smaller than
thantournedos. tournedos. Their Their Round weight varies varies between g.(3 (3to
between 80 80 and and 100 4oz.) 100g. to 4 oz.) and and they they can can weight
prepared in be prepared in any any way way suitable suitable for fortournedos
tournedos or or noisettes. noisettes. be They are are sometimes sometimes called
called coeur coeur de de filet de boeuf boeuf. They filet de Miroton of of beef.
beef. MIROTON MrRoroN DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Arrange Arrange thin Miroton thin slices
slices of boiled boiled beef, beef, overlapping overlapping slightly, slightly, in
in aa fireproof fireproof dish of dish on on aa (se SAUCE) foundation of thick
foundation Lyonnaise sauce of Lyonnaise sauce (see SAUCE) mixed thick mixed with
sliced sliced onions onions which which have have been been lightly lightly fried
fried in with in butter. butter. Pour Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce over over the
meat, sprinkle the meat, melted Pour sprinkle with with melted butter or or
dripping, dripping, and and brown brown the butter the top top in in the
oven.Sprinkle the oyen. Sprinkle parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. with
pAuprETTEs DE Paupiettes of of beef. beef. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Paupiettes
Paupiettes Paupiettesare are (q.v.) ballottines (q. made of of thin thin slices
various meats, ballottines v.) made slices of of various meats, stuffed stuffed and
rolled. rolled. and Flatten thin slices slices of of beef, beef, season pepper Fla
tten thin th salt season wi with and pepper salt and and coyer cover with a layer
pork sausage with a layer of of pork and or well-spiced well-spiced forcesausage or
forcemeat. Roll into into the the shape large cork mea 1. Roll s, wrap of large
corks, wrap in shape of rashers in thin thin rashers of bacon, baco4 and and tie
with string. of tie with string. Braise the paupiettes,and the paupiettes, and
moisten Braise moisten with with white white wine wine or or (see CULINARY Madeira
(see Madeira CULINARY METHODS, Braising). METHODS, Braising). Remove bacon. bacon.
Boil Boil down, Remove down, strain liquor and and strain the the braising braising
liquor pour it paupiettes. Gamish. it over over the garnishes for pour the
paupiettes. Garnish. Ail All garnishes for braised braised beef can can be be
served paupiettes. Certain beef withpaupiettes. garnish, served with Certain types
types of of garnish, as bourgeoise, such as bourgeoise, chipolata such chipolata
sausages sausages or or small small onions, onions, should be be added added when
when the paupiettes are should the paupiettes are half half cooked, cooked, with
the covered with covered the strained strained braising braising liquor, liquor,
and and left left to to finish finish panpiettes. cooking with with the cooking the
paupiettes. Paupiettes of Paupiettes of beef prepared à beef can can he be prepared
it la la bourguignonne bourguignonne (braised in garnish -- small in red red wine).
(braised wine). The The gamish small onions, onions, lardoons lardoons (strips of
pork) and of salt and mushrooms -- must (strips salt pork) must he be cooked cooked
with with paupiettes. the the paupiettes. pAUpTETTBs DE Paupiettes Paupiettes of of
beef à I la la hongroise. hongroise. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF sosuF À A LA HONGROISE
HoNGRorsr -- Stuff paupiettes with LA Stuff the the paupiettes with veal veal
forcemeat forcemeat mixed with chopped mixed chopped onion onion fried frid in pan
on in butter. butter. Place Place in in a a pan on a foundation a foundation of of
more fried fried onion, onion, and and season with salt and season with salt and
paprika. Put the pan and paprika. lid on the !id on the the pan and simmer for 10
l0 minutes. simmer for minutes. Moisten (+ pint, Moisten with with dry dry white
white wine, wine, allowing pint, scant allowing 2 2 dl. dl. (t scant paupiettes.
Boil cup) (* cup) for for 10 l0 paupiettes. Boil down, down, then add about about 4
then add 4 dl. dl. (i pint, scant (se SAUCE). pint, scant 2 cups) cups) light
ligfit Velouté Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put Put a a (q.v.) in garni (q.v.)
bouquet garni in the middle of dish. Bring the middle of the the dish. Bring to to
the the boil, coyer cover the pan, and cook in the oyen, oven, basting frequently.
frequently. When the paupiettes paupiettes are are nearly done, done, drain remove
drain them, them, remove barding, put back into the pan and add add 20 small small
mushrooms lightly tossed in butter. Add cream to the sauce, sauce, boil down down a
a little, and pour over the paupiettes. little, strain, and paupiettes. Cook Cook
until until they they are are done. Serve Serve on cro0tons fried on croûtons fried
in in butter, butter, covering covering them with them with sauce sauce and
mushrooms. pArJprETTEs DE Paupiettes Paupiettes of beef with pilaf. PAUPIETTES DE
BOEUF BoEUF AU AU RIZ Rrz PILAF Paupiettes of beef with IILAF (see Prepare as as
for for Paupiettes with risotto risotto (see - Prepare below), replacing the
risotto with with pilaf rice. pAUpTETTEs Paupiettes of beef with witb risotto.
UPIETIES DE Paupiettes risotto. PA DE BOEUF BoEtJF AU AU paupiettes, glaze RISOTTO
- Cook the paupiettes, Rlsorro glaze them, and and serve serve with Risotto (see
(see RICE). RICE). Simmer down Risotto down the liquor in in which which the
paupiettes were braised, strain, and pour over them. pAUpTETTEs DE Paupiettes of of
beef beef Sainte-Menehould. Paupiettes Saints.Menehould. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF
SATNTE-MENEHoULD SAINTE-MENEHOULD - Braise Braise the paupiettes until BoEUF the
paupietfes until three-quarters done. Allow to cool three-quarters cool in the
strained braising ftavoured with liquor. Drain, dry, and spread with mustard
flavoured pinch of of cayenne pepper. Sprinkle a pinch Sprinkle with melted butter,
roll in fresh breadcrumbs, and cook under a a moderate grill. Garnish with with
watercress, watercress, and and serve with the the braising Garnish serve with
liquor boiled down and strained.

Goulash Goulash

goulash J. Hungarian goulash I. GUL curyns DE BOEUF A LA BoEUF À u HONGROISE

noNcnorsE -Hungarian y AS DE (31 lb.) Fry 1t l* kg. kg. (3t lb.) lean lean beef
pieces, and beef cut cut into into pieces, and 2 2 medium medium Fry (4 OZ.,
onions, cut cut into into large large dice, g. (4 in 125 125 g. dice, in oz.,* cup)
lard. lard. Season Season t cup) onions, with salt salt and and a a teaspoon
paprika. teaspoon of of paprika. with When ail all the ingredients are the
ingredients are weil well browned, g. browned, add add 500 500 g. When (generous
lb.) lb.) tomatoes, peeled, seeded tomatoes, peeled, seeded and and diced. diced.
Moisten Moisten (generous (] pint, pint, scant with 2 2 dl. dl. (t cup) water,
scant cup) water, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, coyer cover with with a a
lid, lid, and and simmer for ($ pint, for 1 1| hours. Add pint, scant Add 2 2 dl.
dl. (t scant t hours. with quartered potatoes, cup) water and and 4 4 quartered
potatoes, and and continue continue to to cook cook cup) for about about another
hour. for goulash n. II. GUL cury,cs DE BOEUF BoEUF À A LA u HONGROISE noNcnorsB
Hungarian goulash y AS DE pieces of Brown pieces of beef beef and and chopped
chopped onion onion in in lard. lard. Season Season - Brown with salt and paprika.
Sprinkle (3 tablespoons) Sprinkle 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) with
flour into into the pan and cook for a a few moments. moments. Add Add enough
enough ftour (| pint, cover the meat,2 pint, scant the meat, dl. (t scant cup) cup)
clear brown stock to coyer 2 dl. pur6e, and (q.v.). Stir, tomato purée, garni
(q.v.). and a a bouquet garni Stir, bring to the bring to the tomato boil, cover,
and and cook cook in in the the oyen oven for for 2| hours. hours. Serve Serve with
boil, coyer, potatoes. boiled potatoes. Beef BoEUF AU AU GROS cRos SEL ssr --
Boiled meat, meat, served served Beef au gros sel. BOEUF garnished with the
vegetables with which it was cooked, hot, gamished and (See BOUILLON, sea salt.
(See BOUILLON, SOUP.) and sea called steak à I l'allemande). I'allemande). BIFTECK
BTFTEcK Hamburger steak (also caUed A a00 g. (14 oz.) beef, taken À rl LA
glrunouRcEorsr HAMBOURGEOISE - Mince finely 400 from contre-filet or fillet. Add g.
(2 (2 OZ., 50 g. oz., t cup) cup) chopped, chopped, Add 50 from lightly onion, and
and 2 2 raw eggs. eggs. Season Season weil well with with salt, lightly fried fried
onion, pepper grated nutmeg, and shape shape into 4 fiat flat cakes. pepper and
grated Dredge and fry fry in clarified butter, in clarified butter, keeping Dredge
with with flour ftour and them just right when little them a little underdone
inside (they are just beads of blood forrn surface). Put Put a a tablespoon of form
on on the the surface). sliced onion, on each steak. on ion, fried in butter, on
Beef Beef hash. HAcHrs HACHIS DE BoEUF BOEUF made out of boiled - This is made or
braised left-over meat. Recipes for beef hashes will be the section be found under
the section HASHES. HASHES. They They can be made made in scallop scallop shells,
as kromeskies, kromeskies, croquettes, auxfines d l'italienne, à aux fines herbes,
d à la honggoise, hongroise, à d la Iyonnaise, lyonnaise, Parmentier, Parmentier, d
à Ia la polonaise, polonaise, d à la la portugaise. portugaise. juices. rus juices,
usually Beef Beefjuices. JUS DE DE BoEUF BOEUFThesejuices, usually called. ca lied
jus jus de - These viande, are used in building-up diets, and and are obtained by
pressing pressing grilled grilled lean slices s!ices of of beef beef in a special
apparatus. Keftedes Keftedes of beef beef (German cookery). KEFTEDES KEFfEDES DE DE
BoEuF BOEUF Prepare Prepare Hamburger Hamburger steaks omitting omitting the the
onion garnish. This method method of of preparation preparation can also be applied
to other other meat. meat. It is is similar to bitki or cutlets cutlets d à Ia la
Pozharsky, which which can of veal, veal, chicken crucken or game, and fish. can be
be made made of Ox Ox (beef) (beef) liver. Iiver. ron FOIE DE DE BoETJF BOEUF -
This is less delicate than calf's liver. liver. All Ali recipes recipes for calf's
liver are are suitable for ox ox (beef) OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.)
(beef) liver. liver. (See (See OFFAL Beef Beef marrow marrow on cro0tes. croûtes.
cno0rgs CROÛTES A À r,q, LA L{onnr MOELLE - Poach Poach slices slices of of marrow
marrow in in salted salted water, water, and drain thoroughly. Fry Fry slices
slices of of bread bread in in butter. butter. Chop Chop a slice of of the the
marrow marrow in small pieces and mix mix with with concentrated concentrated veal
veal stock and and a a chopped pieces and

2t

110 ll0
BEEF BEEF

( Robert Carrier) Ragoit Ragoût ofb€ef of beef(Roberl Carrier)

Paupiettes of beef with vegetables. PAUPIETTES Paupiettes PAUPIETTES DE DE BoEUF

BOEUF garnished and serve serve garnished Braise the paupiettes paupiettes and -
Braise green beans, green broad beans, vegetables: buttered French beans, with
vegetables: beans, broad glazed carrots, carrots, lettuce, glazed endive, lettuce,
celery, endive, peas, etc., etc., braised braised celery, peas, various prepared in
in various etc., potatoes onions, etc., small onions, turnips, small turnips,
potatoes prepared fresh vegetables. pur6es of dried or fresh dried or ways, purées
ways, the sirloin. sirloin' of the Cut from the chump end of steakPorterhouse steak
Porterhouse - Cut pnsss6 -- Pressed is served served which is beef, which Pressed
beef, soruF PRESSÉ beef. BOEUF Pressed beef. Pressed the in the ready-cooked in
usually bought bought ready-cooked is usually as an hors-d'euvre, is an hors-
d'œuvre, as at home. made at can be be made but it it can shops, but shops, a thick
trussing (61 lb.) prick with with a thick trussing lb.) brisket, brisket, prick 3
kg. kg. (61 Take 3 Take process is is The process l0 days. days. The for 8 8 to to
10 pickle in brine for in brine and pickle needle, and needle, winter. in win than
in quickly in in summer summer than more quickly completed more completed ter.
Pickled for Pickled used for as that that used is the same as pickling brine the
same brine is The pick!ing The (see OFF must be be taken taken Care must (scarlet)
beef OFFAL). tongue (see beef or or ox ox lOngue (scarlet) AL). Care cover liquid;
coyer in the the liquid; submerged in beef is is completely completely submerged
the beef that the that top. put a on top. a weight weight on and put wooden board
board and with aa wooden with pieces to fit the the to fit into pieces cut into and
cut water and in cold cold water beef in Wash the the beef Wash in water water
placed' Cook Cook in will later later be be placed. in which which they they will
moulds mou Ids in After leeks. After of leeks. quarters and a bunch bunch of and a
in quarters cut in with aa carrot carrot cut with cover moulds, put into into
square square mou drain, put cooking, drain, thorough cooking, thorough Ids, coyer
top. put a a weight on top. weight on and put wooden board board and with aa wooden
with moulds. the moulds. out of of the quite cold, cold, take take out is quite
meat is When the the meat When with and mixed mixed with been diluted diluted and
gelatine which has been which has with gelatine Coat with Coat add isset, set, add
layer is one layer When one carmine. When little carmine. and aa!ittle burnt sugar
sugar and burnt for protective covering covering for make aa protective These make
another. These another, then then another. another, time. for sorne keep for some
time. it to to keep enabling it the meat, meat, enabling the fresh with fresh and
decorate decorate with into thin thin slices slices and cut into To serve, serve,
cut To parsley. parsley. shoulder of rump, rump, shoulder Pieces of DEBOEUF BoEUF-
- Pieces RAGoOrs DE Beef ragotts. RAGOÛTS Beefragoûts. and cut cut into into meat
and Bone the themeat ragottts. Bone forthese theseragoûts. areused usedfor or rib
ribare or butter, (4oz.). or butter, indripping dripping or g.(4 Brown in oz.).
Brown l00 g. piecesof about 100 ofabout pieces quarters. Season Season
intoquarters. cutinto andcarrots carrots cut withonions onions and together with
together pepper. and pepper. withsalt saltand with

rfcuvms AUX LÉGUMES

nux

a good colour, vegetables acquire and the When the When the meat meat and the
vegetables acquire a good colour, stock and clear brown moisten with flour, moisten
in sorne some flour, sprinkle in sprinkle with clear brown stock and garlic clove.
(q.v.) a crushed and garni a bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.) and a crushed garlic Add
a mix. mix. Add clove. place the Drain, and l] hours. for It lid on, on, for with
the the lid Simmer, with hours. Drain, and place the Simmer, dish. ovenware a large
meat in pieces of pieces of meat in a large ovenware dish. sauce' Boil down down
the meat. Boil garnish on of the on top top of a garnish Put a Put the meat. the
sauce, in cooking in the cookjng Complete the ragofit. Complete pour over over the
the ragoût. and pour strain and strain dish uncovered. uncovered. the dish with the
l] hours, with for 1 the oyen oven for t hours, the bourBourgeoise, bourragofits:
Bourgeoise, beef ragoûts: for beef suitable for Garnishes suitable Garnishes
chestnuts, mushrooms, chestnuts, sausages, mushrooms, guignonne, chipolata
chipolata sausages, guignonne, salsify. salsify. and are then wine, and red wine,
with red moistened with be moistened ragofits can can be Beef ragoûts Beef are then
popular not only dish lt is a la bourguignonne. beef d called called beef à la
bourguignonne. It is a popular dish not only also in Paris, where it but also it
originates, originates, but where it Burgundy, where in Burgundy, in in Paris,
where it esrestaurants, essmall restaurants, of smaU menus of the menus on the
daily on almost daily figures almost figures these menus the On merchants. On these
wine merchants. kept by by wine pecially those those kept menus the pecially
Bourguignon. as Bourguignon. is described described as dish is dish lean of lean
consists of bourguignonne consists d la la bourguignonne garnish for for beef beef
à The garnish The glazed onions small glazed browned, small and browned, bacon,
scalded scalded and rashers of of bacon, on ions rashers mushrooms. and mushrooms.
and alsocalled called train train is also This cut cut is BoEUF -- This DE BOEUF
c0rs DE beef. CÔTE of beef. Rib of Rib and train dicouvert and de côtes cbtes
découvert ftain de into train divided into is divided de côtes. c\tes.It It is
train de couvert. de côtes cdtes couvert. de which entrecdtes, which or entrecôtes,
in slices slices or is cut cut in rib is the rib When boned, boned, the When (see
Entrecite). grilled (see are then then grilled are Entrecôte). are excellent. beef
are whole, ribs ribs of of beef braised whole, Roasted or or braised Roasted
excellent. mobile is served on aa mobile served on rib of of beef beef is roast rib
restaurants roast In big big restaurants In garnish or guests. The ofthe front in
front of the guests. The garnish iscarved carved in and is hotplate, and hotplate,
or same trolley in bains' the same kept on on the gravyand arealso also kept and
sauce sauceare trolley in bainsgravy marie. marie. red meats and must be like aU
all red istreated treated Iike beef is Roast rib rib of of beef Roast meats and
must be (see CULINARY METHODS, inside (see the inside underdone on on the underdone
CULINAR y METHODS, roasts). times forroasts). cooking timesfor Average cooking
Average prepared in inthe thesame same way as Top rump' ribofbeefis of beef
isprepared Braised rib Braised way as Top rump.

lll III
BEEF

BEEF

fub of beef Rib ofbeef

recommended for contre-filet and fillet. When rouJt.d, nishes recommended for
contre-filet and fillet. When roasted, it_is usually served wiih its own juices,
clear and strong; it is usually served with its own juices, clear and strong; when
braised, with the braising llquor boiled down. fi'e when braised, with the braising
liquor boiled down. The left-overs of rib of beef can be made into various dishes.
left-overs of rib of beef can be made into various dishes, recipes for which are
given under EUINCE. HASH: recipes for which are given under ÉMINCÉ, HASH, SALPICON
SALPICON. Roast in the oven. Trim the ribs. Cover with pieces of fat Roast in the
oven. Trim the ribs. Coyer with pieces of fat beaten flat, and tie with string.
Brush with dripping, sprinkle beaten fiat, and tie string. Brush with dripping,
sprinkle with salt, put in with a roasting roasting pan pan and and cook cook in ln
ihe on"rr. with salt, put in a the oyen, uncovered. When cooked, remove string,
trim, and keep hot uncovered. When cooked, remove string, trim, and keep hot until
ready to serve. Garnish and serve as indicated in the until ready to serve. Garnish
and serve as indicated in the recipe. recipe.

Rib of beef (roast or braised) is served with all the gar_ .Rib of beef (roast or
braised) is served with ail the garnishes

Decorating a aroast roast(French Government TouristOffice) Decorating (French

GOl'ernment TOlJrisl Office)

Roast rib ofbeef(boned and rolled) Roast rib of beef (boned and rolled)

Roasting Roasting on on a aspit. spil. Trim Trim the the rib. rib. Tie Tie with
with string string as as described described above. above. Brush Brush with with
dripping, dripping, season season with with salt, salt, and and cook cook in in
front a hot fire to seal the juices. Reduce to a more moderate front of ofa hot
fire to seal the juices. Reduce to a more moderate heat heat to to ensure ensure
that that the the meat meat cooks cooks through. through. Take Take offthe off the
spit spit and and proceed proceed as as described described above. above. of beef
Rib of beef roasted roasted on on a a spit spit should should be be taken taken off
off the the spit spit Bib and and kept kept in in a a slow slow oven oyen 30 30
minutes minutes to to t1 hour, hour, depending depending on on size size (this
(this applies applies to to whole whole roast roast rib). rib). The The cooking
cooking is is thui thus completed completed and and the the meat meat settles
settles in in the the gentle gentle heat heat lnd and be_ becomes more tender.
cornes more tender. Rib Rib of of beef beef ià la la bouquetilre. bouquetière. c6rr
CÔTE DE DE BoEuF BOEUF A À LA LA BoueuErriRn Cut a a thick thick slice slice
(containing (containing two two bones) bones) off off BOUQUETIÈRE - Cut aa trimmed
trimmed rib rib of ofbeef. beef. Season Season this this slice slice of ofrib rib
and and cook cook in in a a saut6 sautépan pan in in clarified clarified butter.
butter. Drain, and and garnish garnish with with carrots carrots and and turnips
tumips cut cut to to a a uniuni_ Drain, form form size, size, French French beans,
beans, artichoke artichoke hearti hearts stuffed stuffed with with garden garden
peas, peas, new new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in rn butter, butter, florets
fiorets of of cauliflower. caulifiower. juices Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices
with with Madeira, Madeira, add add a a little little demidemiglace glace(q.v.)
(q.v.)and and pour pourover over the the rib rib of ofbeef. beef.

proceed as Braised rib rib of of beef. beef.CÔTE cdrn DE DEBOEUF BoEUFBRAISÉE

nR.clsfE- - Proceed Braised as described in in the the recipe recipefor for Braised
Braisedbeef. beef. described Note. To To braise, braise, use piecesof usepieces
ofrib, rib,cut cutin in thick Note. thickslices slices weighweighing from (t+ to
from 22 to to 33 kg. ke. (4! to 6} 6| lb.). lb.). ing Cotd rib of of beef beef ài
la la mode. mode.CÔTE c6rs DE or BOEUF BoEUF FROIDE Co Id rib FRoTDE À ALA re,MODE
uooE Proceed as asfor Top rump (see below). rump à dla la mode mode (see -- Proceed
for Top below). Rib of of beef beef with garnish" CÔTE with garnish. oOTE DE DE
BOEUF BoEUF GARNlE Rib GARNTE- - For For garnishes suitable suitable for for roast
roast or or braised gamishes braised ribs ribs of of beef, beef, see see GARNISHES.
The The following following are are the principal gamishes: GARNISHES. garnishes:
the principal (b) following letter following the the name name of garnish indicates
of the let ter (b) the garnish indicates that that it is is intended intended for
for braised braised rib rib of it of beef: beef: (b), bourguignonne B our g eo ise
(b), (b), bruxelloise, bourguignonne (b), Bourgeoise brux e t Io is e,chipolata
chipolata (b), dauphine, sausages (b), dauphine, duchesse, duchesse, flamande,
sausages hongroise, flamande, hongroise, jardiniire, loruaine, lyonnaise,
lyonnaise, macédoine, jardinière, lorraine, maci do ine, maraîchère, maraichire,
milanmilanaise, moderne, moderne, nivernaise, parisienne, piémontaise, nivernaise,
parisienne, piimontaise, potatoes aise, potatoes cooked in in various various ways,
portugaise, Richelieu. ways, portugaise, cooked Richelieu. In addition addition to
garnishes, roast to these these gamishes, In roast ribs ribs of of beef beef can
can be be served with with buttered buttered or or braised served braised
vegetables, vegetables, and and purées purdes of of vegetables. c0rB DE oe BOEUF
BoEr.rF À Jellied rib of beef. beef. CÔTE A LA rl GELÉE cnrEr -- Trim Trim
leftleft_ over rib rib of of beef, cover with with slightly over beef, coyer
slightly coloured coloured aspic aspic jelly, garnish jelly and with chopped
chopped jelly garnish with and watercress, watercress, and and decorate decoraie
jelly croûtons. the border of the border of the dish with jelly crofftons. Jellied
of beef can can be lellied rib rib of be accompanied accompanied by by various
various plain plain or mixed salads. mixed salads. Roast of beef i Roast rib rib of
à l'anglaise. I'anglaise. CÔTE cOrs DE or BOEUF BoEUF RÔTIE norm À A L',q,NGLarsn
L'ANGLAISE - Roast Roast the the rib as as described the preceding described in in
the recipes recipes but allow a little more cooking time. Serve with Yorkshire
Yorkshire pudding, pudding, baked baked in in the the drippingServe with dripping_
pan pan if if the the joint joint is cooked on a a spit, spit, or in an an
ordinary-pai, ordinary pan, using using beef beef drippings drippings for fat, if
if the the joint joint is cooked cooked in thi the oyen. oven.

Sirloinjoint jointready readyfor for roasting roasting Sirloin

tt2 112
BEEF BEEF
Roast Roas! beef. beef. nossr ROSBIF - Rib Rib roaSts, roasts, fillets fillets
(U.S. (U.S. tenderloin) tenderloin) sirloin sirloin and and rump rump make make
excellent excellent roasts. roasts. The The meat meat should should be be covered
covered with with dripping dripping or or other other fat fat and and roasted
roasted in in a a moderately moderately hot hot oven oyen (see (see CULINARY
CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, AverAverage agecooking cooking timesfor limes for
roasts). roaslS). Rump Rump of of beef. beef. culorrE CULOTTE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF -.
This This cut cut represents represents what what is is left left of of the the
hindquarter hindquarter after after the the sirloin sirloin has has been been cut
eut off. off. It Itis is first first category category beefand beef and is is
braised braised and and used used for for stocks. stocks. The Thetop top of ofthe
the rump, rump, commonly commonlyknown known as aspidce pièce de de boeuf,is boeuf,
is served as a a remove. remove. All Ali the the recipes recipes applicable
applicable to to it il will will be be served as found found under under Top Top
rump rump (see (see below). below). Rump Rump steak. steak. RoMsrEcK ROMSTECK -
Rump Rump steak steak is i5 a a slice slicc of of beef, beef, varying varying in in
thickness, thickness, taken taken from from the the top top of of sirloin sirloin
(U.S. (lI.S. face face of of the the rump), rump), or or the the lower lower part
part of of the the sirloin, sirloin, formed formed by by the the thick, thick,
fleshy fJeshy parts parts which which cover cover the the pelvic pel vic girdle'
girdle. This This cut eut is is used used for for roasts roasts and and is is also
also excellent excellent when when braised, braised, but bU! is is chiefly
preferred grilled. grilled. chiefly preferred Rump Rump steak steak can can be be
cooked cooked in in any any way way suitable suitable for for beefbeefsteaks and
and fillets. tillets. steaks Grilled. Grilled. Proceed Procecd as as described
described for Entecdte, Entrecôte, grilled. gri/led. Sautied. Sautéed. Proceed
Proeeed as as described described fot for Entrec|te, Entrecôte, sautied. sautéed.
and smoked smoked beef. beef. soeuF BOEUF s,c,Lf SALÉ er ET ruuf FUMÉ - Suitable
Suitable Salt and principally principally for brisket, but but top rump rump and
shoulder shoulder of of beef beef (chuck) (chuck) can also be be prepared prepared
in this thi, manner. manner. been kept in brine (in (in the same way way as as ox
After having been tongue) for a period penod of of time according according to
season, these cuts cuts tongue) are desalted and cooked in in water, allowing 15 15
minutes minutes per per (1 lb.). 500 g. (1 Salt beef beef is served hot,
accompanied accompanied by by various valious vegetables vegetables general, in
general, and, in (braised red or green cabbage, sauerkraut) and, with all ail
vegetables vegetables normally served with with poached poached beef' beef. It Il
is is as a press, cool under To serve serve cold, also used also used in potie.
potée. To cold, cool under a press, as described in the earlier recipe recipe for
Pressed beef. beef, described in Smoked beef, Smoked beef, which which must must be
be pickled pickled in in brine brine before It is is salt beef' being smoked,
smoked, is prepared in the same way as salt beef. lt hot or cold. served hot
prepared are prepared These are DE DOEUF BoEUF s.q,urFs DE of beef. beef. SAUTÉS
Saut6s of Sautés - These pieces. Season in pieces. cut in fillet and centre centre
fil parts of rump rump and from let eut from parts keeping underpepper. Sauté Saut6
briskly in butter, keeping with salt and pepper. undermeat as the meat as soon soon
as from the pan as Remove from inside. Remove done done on the imide. juices with
wine, with wine, Dilute the the pan juices hot. Dilute and keep keep hot. is is
browned, and (q.v.), boil demi-glace (q. or demi-glace veal stock stock or add
thickened thickened brown brown veal add v.), boil pan, into the the pan, pieces of
back into of beef back Put the the pieees down, and and strain. strain. Put down,
boiling' without boiling. pour the and reheat without them, and the sauce sauce
over over them, garvarious garwith various be cooked cooked with can be beef can of
beef Saut6s of of fillet fillet of Sautés as the beef; butter as the beef; in the
the same same butter cooked in nishes; nishes: mushrooms cooked butter; in the the
same same butter: lightly tossed tossed in slices, lightly cut in in thick thick
sliees, truffies, cut tru.ffles, added to the beef beef to the in butter, butter,
added and fried frid in potatoes, eut cut in in dice dice and potatoes, or fresh
buttered or timbale; fresh into a a timbale; it has has been transferred into after
after it been transferred glazed vegeta vegetables. glazed bles. preparing for
preparing are also also suitable suitable for methods are The following following
methods The juices being with pan juices diluted with being diluted crime, the the
pan it la h crème, of beef: beef; à sautés saut6s of d la bourguignonne, cream ;à
la bourguignonne, with fresh fresh cream; and moistened moistened with Madeira and
Madeird garnish of juices diluted lean of lean with aa garnish wine, with red wine,
pan juices with red diluted with pan glazed and smal! fried, and small glazed and
fried, blanched and rashers of of bacon, bacon, blanched rashers provengale, the
the la provençale, d la in butter; butter; à saut€ed in mushrooms sautéed onions
and mushrooms onions and with juices diluted moistened with and moistened wine and
white wine with white pan juices pan diluted with (seeTOMATO). TOMATO).
TomalOfondue Tomato fondue (see border with aa border be served surrounded with
also be served surrounded can al50 Sauté of beef beef can Saut6 of pilaf or
risotto. rice pilaf or risotto. of of lice part of the of the Fleshy part BoEUF --
Fleshy DE BOEUf PALERoN DE beef. PALERON Shoulder Shoutder of of beef. be also be
it can canalso but it stock, but for ma making It is is mainly used for shoulder.
king stock, shoulder.It mainly used into stews. stews. made into rump, and and made
as top braised, braised, as top rump, in the the isc1assed classed in whichis
Thiseut, cut,which BoEUFDE130EUf - This Sirioin. Sirloin. ALOYAU ALoyAUDE hook from
the thehook part of animal from ofthe theanimal isthe the part firstcategory
category of of beef, beef,is tirst (U.S. or faux-filet contre-filet or thecontre-
filet It includes includesthe tothe the first firstribs. ribs. It to faux-filer
(U.S. called isonly onlycalled (U.S. tenderloin). It is tenderloin). It fillet
(U.S. beef fillet 5irloin) sirloin)and and the thebeef should whichshould cuts,
which twocuts, these two itincludes includes these when en it aloyau (sirloin) wh
aloyau(sirloin)
113 113

be becooked cooked together, together, without without boning. boning. It Itis

isnot not found found in in retail retail

markets markets in in U.S., U.S., b:ut but a a sirloin sir/oin roast roast can can
substitute substitute in in the the following followingrecipes. recipes. When When
the the sirloin ,idoin is is cooked cooked whole, whole, the the top top has has to
to be be trimmed trimmed otr offslightly slightly and and the theligament ligament
all al! along along the the chine chine has has just is inside to to be be severed
severed in in several severa! places. places. The The fillet, fillet, which which
is just inside this should have have quite quite a a lot lot of offat fat left left
on on it; it; some some of ofthe the this cut, eut, should fat fat surrounding
surrounding it it should should be be cut eut off. off. After After having having
been been thus th us trimmed, trimmed, the the joint joint is is seasoned seasoned
with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and tied tied with with string.
string. The The sirloin, sirloin, served served as as a a meat meat remove, remove,
is is generally generally roasted. roasted. It Il is is cooked cooked either either
on on a a spit spit or or in in the the oven oyen and and kept kept a a little
little underdone underdone inside. inside. It It can can also also be be braised,
braised, cut eut into into pieces pieces 2 2 to to (see 3 3 kg. kg. (4 (4t to to 6|
lit lb.), lb.), in in the the usual usual manner manner (see CULINARY CULINARY
METHODS, METHODS, Braising). Braising). A LA Sirloin la d'Albuf6ra d'Albuféra
(CarGme's (Carême's recipe). recipe). lroYlu ALOYAU À r.l Sirloin ià la o'llsuFERA
I)'ALDUFÉRA - 'Prepare, 'Prepare, braise braise and and glazn glaze a a sirloin.
sirloin. Pour Pour round round ita it a ragofit ragoût made made in in the the
following following manner: manner: Put Put some sorne of of (see the the pan pan
juices juices and and a a little little fresh fresh butter butter into into Tortue
Tortue sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), add add to to it it a a plateful plateful
each each of of lightly lightly fried fried calves' calves' sweetbreads,
sweetbreads, salt sait beef beef tongue ton gue and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Bring
Bring the the of fillets ragofit ragoût to to the the boil boil once. once. Garnish
Gamish with with sliced sliced fillets of young young rabbits rabbits d à ta la
Orly. Orly. Decorate Decorate with with attelets allelelS (q.v.); (q.v.); put put
on on the the
attelet alle/et first first a a plump plump double double cock's cock's comb, comb,
then then a a slice slice of of rabbit rabbit

d à la la Orly, Orly, then tben another another cock's cock's comb comb and and a a
glazed glazed black black
trufle.' truffle.'
Braised Braised sirloin sirloin. ALoYAU ALOYAU nnxsf I3RAISÉ - Trim Trun a a piece
piece of of sirloin, sirloin, cutting cutting across across the the joint, joint,
with with the the grain grain of of the the meat. meat. Lard Lard it it salt, with
with thick thick lardoons, lardoons, which which have have been been seasoned
seasoned with with salt, parsley and with chopped pepper spices, sprinkled pepper
and and spiees, sprinkled with chopped parsJey and a sprinkling an hour steeped
steeped for for an ho ur in in a sprinkling of of brandy brandy with with carrots
carrots and braise. Tie with string and and and onions. onions. Tie with string
braise. off fat, skim off Reduce Reduce pan pan juices, juiees, skim fat, strain,
strain, and and pour pour over over the the serving. sirloin before sirloin before
serving.
GARNITURES GARNITURES DIvERsEs DIVERSES - Braise Braise the the

BRAIsf AvEc garnishes. ALoYAU sirloin with Braised sirloin Braised with variou
varions garnishes. ALOYAU BRAiSÉ AVEC above. as described described above. sirloin
as sirloin around garnishes, disposed disposed around following gamishes, of the
the following one of Serve with Serve with one Bourgeoise, bruxelloise,
bruxelloise, separately: meat or or served served separa the meat the tely :
Bourgeoise, Dubarry, kohlrabi, Dubarry, sauerkraut, kohlrabi, chipolata sausages,
sausages, sauerkraut, celery, chipolata celery, jardinidre, milanaise, napolitaine,
milanaise, napolitaine, duchesse, flamande, flarnande, jardinière, duchesse, Riche'
potatoes, various po noodles, .piimontaise, ta toes, provengale, provençale,
Richenoodles, piémontaise, various (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). risotto (see lieu,
risol/o lieu, DE DESSERTE DE roast. DESSERTE pieces braised or roast. braised or
left-over pieces Sirloin, left-over Sidoin, preparation of Rlb of Rib given for for
the the preparation recipes given All the the recipes L'ALovAU - Ali L' ALOY AU
sirloin. applicable to to sirloin. are applicable Contre-filet are of beef or or
Contre-filet ofbeef completely meat has has been been completely after the the meat
remain after Bones which which remain Bones (see STOCKS)Beef stock stock (sœ for
makiog making Beef can be be uscd used for used up up can used STOCKS). whole or or
cooked whole can be be cooked n6n -- This This can ALoYAU RÔTI Roa$ sirloin.
sirloin. ALOYAU Roast a Iigbt light leaving a trim the the sirloin, sirloin,
leaving pieces. Cut off the the top top.and in pieces. Cut off in and trim during
prevent it from drying drying during it from fillet, to prevent the fille fat on
layer of of fat on the t, to layer Tie with with string. string. cooking. Tie
cooking. instrucfollowing the the instrucoven, by by following in the the oven, a
spit or in Roast it, it, on on a spit or Roast (see CULINARY meats (sœ of red red
meats given for cooking of for the the cooking tions given tions CULINARY its own
own serve its and serve watercress and with watercress Garnish with METHODS).
Garnish METHODS).

juices separately. separately. juices A L'lNctrusn - Trim nOn À ALoYAU RÔTI

l'anglaise. ALOYAU i l'anglaise. Roast sirloin sirloin à Roast L'ANGLAISE- Trim
joint, enclose water, and hot hot water, paste made made offlour of flour and in
paste enclose in and tie tie the the joint, and beef fat fat and salted salted beef
quarter of of chopped chopped and its weight weight of of its with one one quarter
with and crust and remove the the crust cooked, remove nearly cooked, it. When When
nearly added to to il. added joint. brown the the joint. brown (q.v.) in the
roasting pudding (q. the roasting cooked in Yorkshire pudding with Yorkshire Serve
with Serve v.) cooked juices. joint's own own juices. pan, and the joint's and the
pan, Roast n6n -- Roast gamishes. ALOYAU ALoYAU RÔTI various gamishes. with various
sirloin \\llh Roast sirloin Roas! garnishes joint as thegamishes with one oneof of
the above.Serve Serve with asdescribed described above. thejoint the braisedor or
The sir/oin, sirloin, braised Braised sir/oin. sirloin. The for Braised recommended
for recommended garnishes recomrecomby the the garnishes accompanied by also be
beaccompanied canal50 roasted, can roasted, (U.S. sirloin), Fillet ofbeef of beef
RiDand andFil/el sirloin), Rib forContre-filet Contre-filet (U.S. mendedfor mended
(U.S. tenderloin). tenderloin). (U.S.
BEEF

BEEF
Poached. Tie with string and cook, with garnish, the usual Poached. Tie with string
and cook, with the usual garnish, pot-au-feulsee large stockpot, indicated for
SbUpSy. inin aa large stock pot, asas indicated for Pot-au-feu (see SOUPS).
Bringtoto the boil, remove scum, season, and leave Bring the bail, remove scum,
season, and leave toto simmer simmer for hours.Drain to Drainthe the remove meat,
string, and for 44 to 55 hours. meat, remove string, and serve serve withits its
own strainedliquor, liquor,grated gratedhorseradish, horseradish,and and rock with
own strained rock salt. salt.

Sliced beef with various sauces. frrarNcfu DE BoEUF _ LeftSliced beef with various
sauces. ÉMINCÉS DE BOEUF - Leftpoached, over braised or roast meat usually used for
this poached, braised or roast meat isis used for this over dish. Cut the piece of
meat into thin usually slices,and indpour pour over dish. Cut the piece of meat
into thin slices, over them one of the following sauces: Bordelaisei:,
bourluignonne, them one of the following sauces: Bordelaise, bourguignonne,
charcutiire, chasseur, duxelles, fines herbes, italiinni, lyon_ charcutière,
chasseur, duxelles, fines herbes, italienne, lyonnaise, Madeira, piquant po ivrade.
naise, Madeira, piquante,e,poivrade. Steak - See Beefsteak, Chateaubriand,
Contre_filet, Entre_ Steak - See Beefsteak, Chateaubriand, Contrefilet, Entrecite,
etc. côte, etc. Ox tail - See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS. Ox tail-See OFFAL or VARIETY
MEATS.

tmerican marmite for beef-tea American marmite for beef-tea

Beef-tea - Concentrated consomm6 or meat iuice. ob_ Beef-tea Coneentrated consommé

or meat JUlee, obtained by cutting lean beef into small dice and seaiing them
tained by cutting lean beef into small dice and sealing them hermetically in a
wide-necked bottle, or in a special-screwhermetically in a wide-necked bottle, or
in a special screwtop pewter receptacle (American marmite). put into a pan of top
pewter receptacle (American marmite). Put into a pan of boiling water for 40 to 50
minutes. boiling water for 40 to 50 minutes. 500 g. (l lb.) meat will give about
150 g. (a to 5 oz.) liquid. 500 g. (lIb.) meat will give about 150 g. (4 to 5 oz.)
liquid. Beef-tea has a greater nutritive value than ordinary meat_ Beef-tea has a
greater nutritive value th an ordinary meatstock but it is chiefly given, in small
doses, to convaliscents. stock but it is chiefly given, in small doses, to
convalescents, for stimulating the secretion of digestive glands and awaken_ for
stimulating the secretion of digestive glands and awakening ing the the appetite.
appetite. Tongue - See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS, Beef or Ox Tongue - See OFF AL or V
ARIETY MEATS, Beef or tongue. tongue. Toprump. pricr pn soeur (rorNrr on curorrn)
(See Rump Top rump. PIÈCE DE BOEUF (POINTE DE CULOTTE) - (See Rump of beef) Top
rump is sometimescalled,pointe de'culotte. but is of beef) Top rump is sometimes
called pointe de culotte, but is more frequently described on menus as piice de
boeuf. more frequently described on menus as pièce de boeuf Braised. Lard a 3-kg.
(6+Jb.) piece of top rump with Braised. Lard a 3-kg. (6t-lb.) piece of top rump
with strips strips of of salt salt pork, pork, well weil seasoned seasoned and and
sprinkledwith sprinkled with brandy. brandy. Season the meat with fine salt, pepper
and spices, and tie Season the meat with fine salt, pepper and spi ces, and tie
with with string. string. Marinate Marinate for for 5 5 hours hours in in wine wine
with with thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, parsley parsley and a and a crushed
crushed clove c10ve ofgarlic. of garlic. Drain and dry Drain and dry the the meat
meat with with a a cloth. c1oth. Brown Brown in in butter butter or or other other
fat. fat. Fry Fry 2 2 sliced sliced onions onions and and 2 2 sliced sliced carrots
carrots in in butter. butter, put them into a braising pan with l] kg. (3* lb.)
fleshy bones, put them into a braising pan with 1t kg. (3i lb.) fleshy bones, a
calf's knuckle knuckle chopped chopped into into small small pieces pieces and and
browned browned in in a calf's the the oven, aven, 2 2 calf's calf's feei, feet,
boned, boned, scalded, scalded, dipped dipped in in cold co Id water water and and
tied tied with with string, string, and and aa bouquet bouquetgarni garni (q.v.).
(q.v.). Lay Lay the the meat meat on on this this foundation. foundation. Add Add
the the marinating marinating liquor, liquor, cover cover the the pan, cookaa
little little away away from from direct direct heat heat until until the the
liquor liquor pan, and and cook is almost completely is almost completely reduced.
reduced. Add Add slightly slightly thickened thickened veal veal stock stock mixed
mixed with witb 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant *i cup) cup) tomato
tomato sauce sauce to tocover coverthe themeat. meaL Bring Coverthe thepan panand
andput putin inaaslow slowoven oven for for Bringto tothe theboil. boil.Cover about
4 hours. about 4 hours. Drain Drain the the meat, meat, untie, untie, and and glaze
glaze it it in in the the oven, owngravy. gravy. oven,basting bastingwith withits
itsown Arrange Arrangeon onaalarge largedish, dish,surround surroundwith withthe
thegarnish gamishrecomrecommended, separategroups. groups.Boil Boildown downthe
thebraising braising mended,disposed disposedin inseparate liquor, skim off pour
liquor, skim offthe thefat, fat, and and pourover overthe themeat. meat. r14 114

How to lard top rump rump (Nicolas) (Nrcolas)

Top rump rump d à la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. pricr PIÈCE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF .A. À
r,c. LA souRBOURcrorsr GEOISE - Steep Steep lardoons lardoons in brandy brandy and
spices spices and insert in sert in in a a large of rump. rump. Season Season and
and marinate marinate in in 5 5 dl. (scant (scant pint, large piece piece of
2{ cups) white 2i cups) white wine wine for for 6 6 hours. hours. Cook Cook in in a
a braising braising pan pan with with vegetables vegetables and other other garnish
as as indicated indicated for for Braising Braising meat meat (see (see CULINARY
CULINAR y METHODS). METHODS). When When three-quarters three-quarters cooked,
cooked, drain drain the the meat meat and and put put it it in in a a casserole
casserole with with 4 4 carrots carrots which which have have been been cut cut
into into small small pieces and two-thirds two-thirds cooked cooked in in stock,
stock, and and small small glazed pieces and glazed, onions. onions. Add Add calf's
calf's feet, feet, braised braised with with the the meat, meat, boned boned and
and cut cut into into pieces. pieces. Strain Strain the the braising braising
liquor, liquor, skim skim off off fat, fat, and and pour pour over over the the
meat. meat. Cook Cook with with a a lid !id on on for for ll li hours. hours. Drain
Drain the the meat meat and and serve serve with with the the liquor. liquor.

Top Top rump romp à ta la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. priicr PIÈCE ou DE sorur

BOEUF A À ra LA BoURGUTcNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE-- Insert Insertlarge large lardoons
lardoons into into a a piece piece of ofrump rump and and marinate marinate in in
brandy brandy for for 6 6 hours. hours. Braise Braise in in red red wine, wine,
following the recipe recipe for for Braising Braising meat meat (see (see CULINARY
CULINAR y following the
METHODS). METHODS).

i
BEEF
into meat cooked, When Whenthree-quarters three-quarters cooked,drain drainthe the
meatand andput put intoaa

BEEF

daubière (q.v,) (q.v,) with with garnish garnish d à la la bourguignonne

bourguignonne (see (see daubiire

wine and a few tablesPoons few fewminutes, minutes,and andadd addaalittle littledry
dry wine and a few tablespoons

GARNISHES)and andits itsbraising braisingliquor, liquor,strained strainedand

andwith withfat fat GARNISHES) skimmedoff. off.Simmer Simmerslowly. slowly. skimmed
Top l'ancienne. PdcE PIÈCEDE DE BoE-uF BOEUF BRAISEE BRAISÉEAÀ Toprump rompbraised
braised i àl'ancienne. r'lNCmNNs L'ANCIENNE -- Trim Trim top top rump, rump, and
and tie tie with with string. string. Braise, Braise, and andwhen wbenthe themeat
meatisisstill stillaalittle littlefirm, firm,drain, drain,put putunder
underaapress' press, or orin inaapan panwith withaaweight weighton ontop. top.
Leave Leaveto tocool. cool. Cut Cutout outthe thecentre centrepart, part, leaving
leavinga a meat meat ring ringabout about l| Itcm. cm. (f (t inch) inch) thick.
thick. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg egg and and cover cover with with
white white breadcrumbs breadcrumbsmixed mixedwith with grated grated Parmesan
Parmesan cheese. cheese. Press Presswell weil to to make make the the breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs adhere, adhere, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter, and
and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. butter, Cut Cut the the meat meat taken
ta ken out out of of the the centre centre part part into into very very thin thin
slices, put them them into into a a saut6 sauté pan, pan, added added thin th.in
slices slices of oftongue tongued à slices, put l'écarlate (salt (salt beef beef
tongue) tongue) and and some sorne sliced sliced mushrooms' mushrooms, I'icarlate
lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten with with a a few
few tablespoons tablespoons conconand with with the the fat fat skimmed skimmed
centrated braising braising liquor, liquor, strained strained and centrated off. !-
dl. dL (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant lt cup) cup) Madeira Madeira and
and leave leave off. Add Add + do not not boil. boil. to stew stew slowly slowly
but but do to Place Place these these slices slices in in the the meat meat ring,
ring, and and serve serve with with the the remainder remainder of of the the
sauce. sauce. Top à la la mode. mode. p$cn PIÈCE or DE BoEuF BOEUF A À Ll LA uoon
MODE - Cook Cook as as Top rump romp i described described in in the the recipe
recipe for Top Top rump rump d à la la bourgeoise, bourgeoise, replacing replacing
white wine wine by by red. red. white Top ONGLET DE DE Bonur BOEUFThis juicy cut
cut can can be be prepared prepared Top skirt. skirt. oNGLET - Thisjuicy is also in
in any any way way suitable suitable for for Beefsteak' Beefsteak. It Itis also
used used for for carbonades, for extracting meat juice, juice, and for for beef
beef saut6es' sautées. extracting meat or saut6. sauté. Grill or Grill Tournedos
(medallions filJet of of beef) - Small Small slices slices of of Tournedos
(medallions of fiIlet of butter a mixture fillet of of beef, beef, usually frid
fried in butter, or in a mixture of butter of to that that of is similar similar to
Their preparation in oiL oil. Their or in preparation is and and oil, oil, or
should be They should (see MUTTON). MUTTON)' They of mullon mutton (see Noiselles
be Noisettes of pink remain pink they remain that they make sure sure that to make
very quickly, to cooked very inside. grilled). (see Filets mignons, mignons,
grilled). grilled (see also be be grilled Tournedos can also Tournedos grilled or
or placed on on grilled are sometimes sometimes placed they are Before garnishing,
they mounds small mounds hearts, artichoke he cakes, artichoke cro0tons, potato
cakes, fried croûtons, arts, small be found found will be tournedos will for
tournedos and sauces sauces for etc. Garnishes Garnishes and rice, etc. of rice, of
and SAUCE. SAUCE. GARNISHES and order under GARNISHES alphabetical order in
alphabetical in and with salt salt and tutrnedos with Season the the tournedos
Abrantis -- Season Tournedos Abrantès Tournedos grilled slices slices of of on
grilled them on in oiL Place them oil. Place paprika and and sauté them in saut6
them paprika add a a oil, add in the the oil, onion in chopped onion I tablespoon
Fry 1 tablespoon chopped aubergines. au bergines. Fry a few few tablespoons
tablespoons pimentos and and a (q.v.) of peeled pimentos of peeled salpicon
salpicon (q.v.) with Serve with tournedos' Serve pour over over the the tournedos.
and pour sauce, and tomato tomato sauce, in butter. butter. cooked in and cooked
cut small small and been cut potatoes which have been which have potatoes salt with
salt tournedos with the tournedos Season the I'alg6rienne -- Season i l'algérienne
Tournedos à Tournedos and fried croûtons cro0tons and on fried Place on in butter.
butter. Place saut6 in paprika and and sauté and and paprika (see GARNISHES).
GARNISHES)' algirienne (see *ith Garnish Garnish algérienne surround .u.to.tnd with
been has been which has juices with wine to to which white wine with white pan
juices Dilute the pan Dilute the pour over the over the and pour veal stock, stock,
and added added tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal tournedos . tournedos. and
in butter butter and tournedos in Saut6the thetournedos archiduc-- Sauté
Tournedosarchiduc Tournedos croquettes withsmall small croquettes garnishingwith
potato cakes, cakes,garnishing place them onpotato them on place place22on on
andplace butterand inbutter of trufrein Toss slivers sliversoftruffie brains. Toss
ofcalves' calves'brains. of juices witb sherry, withsberry, pan juices Dilute tbe
thepan garnishedtournedo. tournedo. Dilute each eachgarnished boil proportions,
boil equal proportions, inequal stock in vealstock creamand and veal fieshCream add
addfresb pourover the overthe andpour paprika, strain, strain, and withpaprika,
little,season downaalittle, season with down tournedos. tournedos. wtth
grilledtournedos tournedoswith Garnish grilled labéarnaise b6arnaise- -Garnish
Tournedos ài la Tournedos with (seePOT Servewith POTATOES). potatoes (see Chdtean
potatoes smallChâteau ATOES). Serve small (seSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce(see Biarnaise
sauce Béarnaise and poachedand ofpoached slicesof thin Plaoethin labordelaise
bordelaise- -Place Tournedosàila slices Tournedos chopped withchopped Sprinklewith
grilledtournedos. tournedos'Sprinkle marrowon ongrilled drained drainedmarrow (see
SAUCE). sauce(see Bordelaisesauce withBordelaise parsley andserve serve and with
SAUCE). parsley and inbutter, butter,and tournedosin thetournedos Saut6 chassetn-
-Sauté Tournedos the Tournedos chasseur pan, samepan, inthe the mushroomsin sliced
placeon Saut6 on dish.Sauté place a adish. sliced mushrooms same for brown
Season,brown shallots.Season, chopped of spoonfulof adding spoonful chopped
shallots. for aa iOainga a

veal stock)' Boil .!:t (q.v.) (or thickenid 6r*;-gtice thickened veal stock). 9oil
for ? 2 demi-glace (q.v.) (or parsley, chervil and

chopped minuies. minutes. edd Add z 2 teaspoons teaspoons chopped parsley,

chervilpour and the sauce' Stir well and tarragon, tarragon,and andaalittle !
ittlebutter butterto to the sauce. Stir weil and pour over the ·tournedos. the
tournedos in butter, and Tournedos Choron -- Saute Sauté the tournedos in butter,
and Garnish with artichoke hearts place placethem tbemon onfried fried crootons.
croûtons. Garnisb with artichoke bearts peas garden with filled and which whichhave
havebeen beenstewed stewedin inbutter butter and filled with garden peas butter'
Pour on each tourneda dressed or -Choron or utp"tugrrs asparagus tips tips dressed
in in butter. Pour on each the tournedo pan (see SAUCE)' Dilute a a rini ring of
ofitrict thick Choron sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Dilute the pan veal stock, and pour
a juiceJwith juices with white white wine wine and and thickened thickened veal
stock, and pour a few few tablespoons tablespoonsover over ttle the
tournedostournedos. the tournedos in butter' Tournedos la Clamart Clamart - Saut6
Sauté the tournedos in butter. Tournedos Ià la and fill with a puree of in butter,
hearts artichoke Simmer Simmer artichoke hearts in butter, and fil! with a purée of
cooked been have which potatoes new peas and small fresh fresh peas and small new
potatoes which have been cooked and thickened wine juices white with in in butier.
butter. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with wbite wine and thickened
tournedos. veal and pour pour over over the the tournedos. veal stock, stock, and
tournedos in butter, place Tournedlos Tournedos H-etder Helder - Saut€ Sauté the
the tournedos in butter, place each one with a ring of them tbem on on fried fried
crottons, croûtons, and and top top each one with a ring of a further decorated
with (see Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), further
decoratedGarnish with a (see FONDUE)' Tomato thick of teaspoon fondue teaspoon of
thick Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). Garnish the pan juices with wtite potatoes fried
with withpotatoes fried in in butter, butter, Dilute Dilute the panjuices with
white tournedos' the pour over and veal stock, wine and thickened tbickened veal
stock, and pour over the tournedos. wine and the tournedos in butter and Tounedos
and Tournedos Henri Henri IV IV - Saut6 Sauté the tournedos in butter arti each
tournedo witha small Top crofitons. fried place on place on fried croûtons. Top
eacn tournedo with a small artiBdarnaise sauce (see SAUCE), .ttot choke heart heart
filled filled with with thick thick Béarnaise sauce (see SAUCE), Garnish with small
potadecorated decorated with with a a sliver s!iver of of truffie. truffie. Garnisb
with small (q'v potajuices Madeira and demi-glace ') toes. toes. Dilute Dilute the
the pan pan juices with with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) tournedos. pour the over
and and pour over tbe tournedos.

*iilH"?Kt6f;;'

Tournedos Marguery

Tournedos Marguery

the tournedos in butter, and Saut6 the Marguery -- Sauté Tournedos Marguery
Tournedos tournedos in butter,(q'v') and with a salpicon filled with heart filled
irtichoke heart an artichoke with an each with top each top a salpicon (q.v.)
morels with dish the of centre the Fill crCme. FiU the centre of the disb with
morels dla Ia crème. of truffles trufles à of cocks' combs and kidneys few cocks'
place aa few and place in butter, butter, and fried in combs and kidneys fried the
pan juices with port, add Dilute tournedos. the between between the tournedos.
Dilute the pan juices with port, add a little, and pour over the tournedos' down
boil fresh cream, fresh cream, boil down a little, and pour over the tournedos.
Grill tbe the tournedos and arrange them Massena-- Grill TournedmMassena Tournedos
tournedos and arrange them been simmered in butter' Add a have which artichokes on
on articbokes which have been simmered in butter. Add a each tournedo. Cover with
toeach poached bone-marrow bone-marrow to sliceof ofpoacbed slice tournedo. Cover
with (see SAUCE), and put a pinch of chopped I sauce Marroi Marrow sauce 1 (see
SAUCE), and put a pinch of chopped marrow. ofmarrow. sliceof parsleyon eachslice
oneach parsley ^ Saut6 the tournedos in mushrooms with Tournedm Tournedos with
musbrooms - - Sauté the tournedos in small mushrooms which add cooked, half When
butter. butter. When half cooked, add small mushrooms which and complete cooking.
in butter, fried lightly have been have been lightly fried in butter, and complete
cooking. on a dish, and surround crownon inaacrown tournedosin thetournedos
Arrangethe Arrange a dish, and surround Dilutethe the pan juices with Madeira,
mushrooms. Dilute withthe themushrooms. with pan juices with Madeira, (q.v.) or
thickened veal stock, and withdemi-glace demi-gtace(q.v.) moisten moisten with or
thickened veal stock, and pour the tournedos. over pour over the tournedos.
perigourdine - Saut6 the tournedos in la i Tounedos Tournedos à la perigourdine -
Sauté the tournedos in and top each with slices of cro0tons,and placeon
friedcroûtons, onfried butter,place butter, top each with slices of cooking butter.
Dilute in the tossed been have which truffie truffie which have been tossed in the
cooking butter. Dilute juices with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) and pour pan the
the pan juices with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) and pour tournedos. overthe
thetournedos. over
115 Ils
BEEF-EATERS BEEF-EATERS

Beer : fermentation room (Ileineken) (Adwindig) Beer: fermentation room (Heineken)

(Adwindig)

Beer:tank tankcellar (Heineken)(Adwindig) cellar(Heinekeo) (Adwindig) Beer:

Tornedos i la portugaise saut6 the tournedos in butter and Tornedos à la portugaise

-- Sauté the tournedos in butter and oil, and garnish with small stuffed tomatoes
and Chhrcau oil, and garnish with small stuffed tomatoes and Château potatoes (see
POTATOES). Dilute the pan juices with white potatoes (see POT ATOES). Dilute the
pan juices with white wine and tomato-flavoured veal stocli and pour over the wine
and tomato-fiavoured veal stock and pour over the tournedos. tournedos. Tournedos
Rossini - Saut6 the tournedos in butter and Tournedos Rossini - Sauté the tournedos
in butter and arrange on crofitons. Put a slicn of foie gras tossed in butter
arrange on croûtons. Put a slice of foie gras tossed in butter on each, and top
with slices of truffies, heated in the same on each, and top with slices of
truffies, heated in the same butter in which the tournedos were cooked. butter in
which the tournedos were cooked. Dilute the pan juices with Madeira Madeira and and
demi-glace (q.v.) demi-glace (q.v.) Dilute the pan juices with and pour over the
tournedos. and pour over the tournedos. Tournedoa Saint-Germain - Saut€ the
tournedos in butter, Tournedos Saint-Germain - Sauté the tournedos in butter, plaoe
on fried cro0tons, and garnish with a thick puree of place on fried croûtons, and
garnish with a thick purée of fresh peas. fresh peas. Dilute the pan juices with
thickened veal stock and pour Dilute the pan juices with thickened veal stock and
pour over the tournedos. Garnish with young glazd, carrots^and over the tournedos.
Garnish with young glazed carrots and small new potatoes gooked in butter,
alteinating these vege_ small new potatoes cooked in butter, alternating these
vegetables round the dish. (iee sauce (see tables round the dish. Serve Serve with
with Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce SAUCE). SAUCE). Tournedos can be cooked in any way
suitable for small cuts Tournedos can be cooked in any way suitable for small cuts
of meat,. for Noisettes Noisettes of of meat, especially especially as as described
described in in recipes recipes for of (see mutton can mutton (see MUTTON).
MUTTON). Saut6ed Sautéed or or grilled, grilled tournedos tournedos can also be
dressed with butter or fresh cream, and served with also be dressed with butter or
fresh cream, and served with French beans, kidney beans, peas, asparagus tips. They
can French beans, kidney beans, peas, asparagus tips. They also be garnished with
fresh vegetables cookedin butier or also be garnished with fresh vegetables cooked
in butter or braised, such as cubumbers, chicory, lettuce, small marrows, braised,
such as cu"cumbers, chicory, lettuce, small marrows, aubergines, celeriac, celery,
spinach; as well as with potatoes aubergines, celeriac, celery, spinach; as weil as
with potatoes cooked cooked in in various various ways; ways; and and with with
pur6es purées of of freshbr fresh or dried dried vegetables, rice pilaf, risotto,
pasta products and cereals. vegetables, rice pilaf, risotto, pasta products and
cereals. Beef _ Boiled beef. Beefiàla la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. BoEUF BOEUFA Àra
LA viNlrcnurrr VINAIGRETTE - Boiled beef, diced diced or or cut cut in in thin thin
slices, slices, seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, oil, oil,
vinegar, vinegar, onion onion and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Serve Serve
with with siiciO sliced Uoited boiled potatoes. potatoes.

The invention inventionof fermented beverages offermented beveragesfrom The grainis

fromgrain isattriattributed to to the the Egyptians, Egyptians, who who practised
practised the buted themanufacture manufacture of of alcoholic liquor papyri liquor
from from grain grain at at least5,000 yearsago. least 5,000 years alcoholic
ago.Papyri of period the 1300B.e. s.c. refer refer to tothe of the period 1300
theregulation regulation of ofbeer beJrshops strops to to prevent people people
over over indulging indulging in prevent in beer. beer. The The Egyptians Egyptians
made made several kinds kinds of beer, and of beer, and they they also several also
made madeaawine winefrom from barley barley which they they called called xithum.
xithum. which The Pannonians, Pannonians, who who lived lived along The along the
Danube, made the Danube, made aa potent drink drink out out of of barley barley and
potent and millet. millet. A A similar similar beverage beverage existed in in
Illyria. Illyria. Teutons Teutons made made aa kind existed kind of of wine wine
from from ferfeimented barley barley and and wheat. wheat. 'The 'The people mented
people of of the the west,' west,' said said 'get drunk Pliny, 'get drunk on
grain.' on mouldy mouldy grain.' Phny, The beer beer made made by by all all these
people was The these people was not not intended intended to be to be

been beenderived derived from from the the French French beaufaitier beaufaitier--
one one who who attends attends the the buffet. buffet. It It is is more more
likely likely that that these these yeomen yeomen were were called caUed beef-
eaters beef-eatersin inthe theseventeenth seventeenthcentury, century,fiom from
their theirreceiving receivingaa large daily ration of beef. large daily ration of
beef.

Guardon onduty dutyat atthe theTower Towerof ofLondon. London. The Thename name may
may have have _Guard

BEEF-EATERS BEEF-EATERS -- Nickname Nickname given given to to the the yeoman

Yeoman of of the the

BEER. BEER. ndipe BIÈRE-- A A generic generic term terrn used used for for all ail
fermented fermented malt malt beverages, beverages,and andincludes includesporter,
porter,ale aleand and stout. stout. The The beverage beverage is is obtained
obtained through through the the action action of ofyeast yeast on on an an
infusion infusion 6f of malted malted cereals. cereals. It It is is aa refreshing
refreshing and and slightly slightly stimulating stimulating drink drinkwhich
whichhas hassome sornefood foodvalue. value.
116 116

Hop field (J. Boyer) Boyer) Hopfield,(J.

kept. kept. Hops Hops were were later later introduced introduced in in the the
brewing brewing of of beer beer in in theNetherlands, Netherlands, and and in in
the the fifteenth fifteenth century century in in England. England. the In all ail
regions regions and and at at all ail latitudes, latitudes, beer beer is is brewed
brewed from from In
BEER

BEER

Beer: Beer: filtering fiJtering and and refrigeration refrigeration (Gruber,

(Gruber, Melun) Melun) (Iarousse) (Larousse)

assembly line (Heineken) (Adwindig) Beer: Beer: bottle botlle assembly line
(Heineken) (Adwindig)

various cereals: cereals: wheat, oats, rice rice (the (the Japanese sake), saké),
millet, millet, various corn), sorghum, etc; etc; and and even ev en from from
starchy starchy maize (U.S. corn), maize (U.S. are not roots (srveet (sweet
potatoes, potatoes, cassava), cassa va), when when cereals cereals are not roots
available. produced Industrial brewing.In brewing. ln Europe, beer is generally
produced In&tstial wort, a sweetened sweetened juice, fermentation of a juice, the
wort, alcoholic fermentation by the alcoholic a micro-organism, micro-organism, by
a fermented by flavoured with hops and fermented hops and flivoured with flour malt
flour product of the maceration of malt yeast. The wort is the product The wort
temperacontrolled temperaat suitably controlled or sprouted barley in water at
purpose The purpose fermentable' The tures. Cereal starch is is not directly
fermentable. is to to breed in the the malting process is of germinating
germinating the the barley in of the the transformation of induce the
transformation enzymes in grain; these these induce in the grain; process' mashing
process. the mashing during the maltose during starch or maltose sugar or starch
into malt sugar barley the barley picked over, over, the and picked After cleaned
and been cleaned having been After having malt to the the malt dispatched to grains
and dispatched tuns, and in tuns, grains are soak in set to to soak are set kilns,
tbus thus malt kilns, in malt drid in houses. is then then dried barley is The
sprouted sprouted barley [ouser. The according regulated according is regulated
arresting This operation operation is gerrnination. This arresting germination.
manufacture for the the manufacture pale malt malt for to malt desired: desired:
pale quality of of malt the quality to the of manufacture of the manufacture malt
for for the of flavoured malt pale ale; ale; coloured, coloured, flavoured of pale
rootthe rootis to to say, say, the that is brown degermed; that is then then
degermed; malt is ale. The The malt brown ale protein a high high protein have a
These have lets removed. These are removed. combs are malt combs lets or or malt
feed' cattle feed. ideal cattle them ideal and makes them which makes content which
nitrogen content and nitrogen put to to is put malt is crushed malt During process
the the crushed mashing process the mashing During ~he of temperature of
toaatemperature macerate heated to mixture heated and the the mixture water and in
water macerate in is which is operation, which 75°C. this operation, (167'F.). ln
of this course of In the thecourse 75"C. (16rF.). by istransformed transformed by
done starch is thestarch infusion, the or infusion, by decoction decoction or done
by saccharification' process of of saccharification. enzymes is the the process
this is into sugar: sugar: this enzymes into called residue,ca the residue, The
lied from the filtration from byfiltration separated by isseparated wort is The
wort is wortis filtered wort The filtered the food. The cattle food. ascattle
usedas also used ii also this is draff; this thedraff; g' 500g. 150to to500
proportion of of150 cooked inthe theproportion are added added in and hops hopsare
cooked and gallons)' gallons,28 per 28 gallons). per22 22gallons, (5OZ.to 18oz.
oz.per perhectolitre oz. to18 hectolitre (5 The tuns'The The fermentation tuns. to
fermentation thensent sentto isthen wort is cooled wort Thecooled andthe the
processand addition theprocess yeast completes completes the of culture
cultureyeast additionof (32"or or 2'C'(32° 0oor or2°C. beer to0° cooledto cellars
cooled maturing cellars placed in inmaturing isplaced beeris oftime time lengthof
36°F.), variablelength foraavariable remainsfor where it remains 36'F.), where
depending quality. andquality. itstype typeand uponits dependingupon fermentation
There lowfermentation beer:low ofbeer: principal types typesof aretwo twoprincipal
Thereare of inthe typeof thetype beers differin Theydiffer beers.They fermentation
beers. andhigh highfermentation beersand inthe the andin leavening fermentationand
offermentation speedof thespeed inthe uied,in leavening used, temperature method
thetemperature former,the Inthe theformer, wort.In thewort. ofmashing mashingthe
methodof l0'C. of above10°C. artificiallyabove maintainedartificially
fermentationisismaintained offermentation the ofthe (50°F.). mostof daysmost
twelvedays totwelve periodof ofsix sixto (50"F.).After Aftera aperiod bottom
leavening deposit thebottom atthe depositat formsa a andforms precipitated and
leaveningisisprecipitated ferof 'lowbottom bottomferterm'low theterm comesthe
whichcornes fromwhich tun,from thetun, ofthe rises mentation the temperaturerises
thetemperature case, secondcase, thesecond yeast'.ln Inthe mentation yeast'.

it

lasts from two (59' or 68'F.). Fermentation or 68°F.). 15" or or 20'C. to to 15°
20°C. (59° Fermentation lasts from two the liquid, of the the top top of gathers at
at the yeast gathers the yeast days, and and the four days, to four to liquid,
yeast'. 'top fermentation fermentation yeast'. term 'top hence the term hence the
most universaJJy universally be the the most used to to he which used Top
fermentation, fermentation, which Top and Belgium and Britain, Belgium in Britain,
employed in is stiU still employed popuiar method, method, is popular since has
developed developed since fermentation has Bottom fermentation France. Bottom
noithem France. northern possible the makes possible It makes refrigeration. It of
refrigeration. introduction of the introduction the the beer. quality of consistent
a more production of production of a more consistent quality of beer. yeastless
beer a yeastless is a Belgium, is in Belgium, mostly in manufactured, mostly Also
manufactured, Also beer andfaro. lambic and called lambic called faro. filtered, is
beer the beer is filtered, cellars the maturing cellars period in in the the
maturing a period After a After easily so easily liquid, so This Iiquid, bottles.
This or bottles. in casks casks or conditioned in then conditioned then premises
The premises handling. The careful handling. most careful the most requires the
spoiled, requires spoiled, regularly and regularly clean and perfectly clean must
he be perfectly and receptacles receptacles must and generally is generaJJy bottles
is in boUles conditioned in beer conditioned The beer sterilised. The sterilised.
65'C. to 65°C. of 60° 60' to temperature of to aa temperature heated to pasteurised
- heated pasteurised (140'to 149'F.). (140° to 149°F.). acid carbonic acid pressure
with with carbonic under pressure charged under is charged beer is Bottled beer
Bottled preserved, be preserved, flavour to to he and flavour freshness and all its
its freshness which enables enables ail which it is isopened. opened. immediately
it consumedimmediately it is isconsumed provided that that it provided classed in
be classed to he used to beers used (bottom) fermentation fermentation beers Low
(bottom) Low in brown strong brown beer;munich, blendbeer; pilsen,a light blend
three types: types: pilsen, a light munich, aastrong three decreasrapidly beer
amber-coloured beer rapidly decreasvienne,aasweet, sweet, amber-coloured beer:
vienne, beer; popularity. inpopularity. ing in ing brews: English brews: arethe
theEnglish beers are fermentation the top topfermen Amongthe Among tation beers
There beers.There brownbeers. porterand stout, brown andstout, paleale, blendbeer;
ale,i pale a blend beer; porter Berlin' andBerlin, Louvain and ofLouvain whitebeers
beers of thewhite beers: the alsospecial specialbeers: lrealso are to belongto
beersbelong various beers Belgium. Thevarious ofBelgium.The andfaro thelambic
lambicand faro of the pilsen-type of is the distributed widely most The types.
these these types. The most widely distributed is the pilsen-type of arre as many
thereare thatthere tosay saythat however, to paleale. Itisistrue, true,however,
ale.It pale as many arebreweries. breweries' asthere thereare beeras ofbeer
varietiesof varieties inevery every notthe thesame samein beerisisnot ofbeer unitof
legaldensimetric densimetricunit Thelegal The tendency Thereisis 'Rigie'degree.
degree.There the Franceititisisthe InFrance country.ln country. 'Régie' aa tendency
conextractconis,the theextract thatis,' extract- -that originalextract tothe
theoriginal backto referback torefer to never densityisisnever Thisdensity
fermentation. This before wortbefore bythe thewort tainedby tained fermentation. of
contentof alcoholiccontent thealcoholic forthe degrees,for inalcoholic
alcoholicdegrees, expressedin expressed the ofthe diminutionof onthe the
attenuation - -on itsattenuation onits dependson beer beer depends diminution of
contentof alcoholcontent Thealcohol fermentation. The of courseof inthe the
extractin extract course fermentation. accordingto to fluctuates extractfluctua
originalextract the madefrom fromthe beersmade beers original tes according
attenuation. of degree the the degree of attenuation. the accordingtoto
variesaccording beers of compositionof Theihemical The chemical composition beers
varies the alcohol of volume The wort.The originalwort. the of density and typeand
type density of the original volume of aJcohol per sometimes cent, per cent to from
rangesfrom contains tains ranges 33 per cent to 66 per cent, sometimes itiicon
particular beers beer. English the upon greater,depending dependingupon greater,
the beer. English beers inin particular amount. this can exceed can exceed this
amount.

t17 117
BEESTINGS

BEESTINGS
Beer (German sorp cookery). soupE re sriRE Dilute Beer soup (German cookery). SOUPE
ÀA LA BIÈRE - _ Dilute 150 (q.v.) oz.) light roux made butter and flour with 150
g.g. (5(5 oz.) light roux (q.v.) made ofof butter and flour with (2f lIlitres
litres pints, pints) 3{ light beer. Mix well. Season with It (2i pints, 3i pints)
light beer. Mix weil. Season with salt and pepper and add teaspoons fine sugar and
salt and pepper and add 22 teaspoons fine sugar and aa small small pinch
powderedcinnamon. cinnamon.Bring Bring the boil, and powdered toto the boil, and
simmer for pinch simmer for 25 minutes. 25 minutes. B9{ore serving, thickenwith
with2 2 pint, dt. scant Before serving, thicken dL (1(+ pint, scant cup) cup)
double cream.Pour Pour overthin thinslices slices oftoast toast into double cream.
over of into aa soup soup tureen whileitit stillboiling. boiling. tureen while isis
still

lighter bodied bodied th thrin the European b.r.op"a, lager beer which is lighter
an the varieties. There is a large volume of importing and expoiting varieties.
There is a large volume of importing and exporting of beers between Europe and the
United States. of beers between Europe and the United States. Barley beer. cpnvons
- Decoction of barley, fermented - Decoction of barley, fermented Barley beer.
CERVOISE with- yeast - perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which with yeast
perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which produces a kind of barley wine rather
than Jbeer. This was produces a kind of barley wine rather than a beer. This was a
drink of the ancient Gauls. a drink of the ancient Gauls. Ginger beer. sriRn DE
GINGEMBnT - Boil 2t ke. (5 lb.) loaf Ginger beer. BIÈRE DE GINGEMBRE - Boil 2i kg.
(5 lb.) loaf sugar, 75 g. (3 oz, * cup) ground ginger and l litres (3 gal_ sugar,
75 g. (3 oz., i cup) ground ginger and 14 litres (3 gallon9, 3f gallons) water for
I hour. When cold, add the jriice Ions, 3i gallons) water for 1 hour. When cold,
add the juice and thinly peeled rind of 5 lemons. Add cup brewer's yeast + cup
brewer's yeast and thinly peeled rind of 5 Iemons. Add -!smeared on a piece of
toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden
tub, covered with a thick cloth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a cloth, with a
thick c1oth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a c1oth, bottle, and cork securely,
tying the corks down bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down. The beer will
be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a The beer will be ready for drinking in 4
or 5 days. If a stronger brew is desired, add more ginger. st ronger brew is
desired, add more ginger. Home-made beer I. nrinn or u6N.l,cn - Boil 2 litres (3*
Home-made beer I. BIÈRE DE MÉNAGE - Boil 2 litres (3t pints, 4| pints) ordinary
barley n 22 litres (4f gallons, pints, 4t pints) ordinary barley in 22 litres (4i
gallons, gallons) water for 2 hours. Add 125 g. (4 oz.\ hops and 6 6 gallons) water
for 2 hours. Add 125 g. (4 oz.) hops and g. (t lO 10 g. (1 ^oz-) oz.) chicory,
chicory, and and leave leave to to infuse. infuse. Strain, Strain, and and pour
pour into (6]-gallon, 8-gallon) tun. into a a 30-litre 30-litre (6t-gallon, 8-
gallon) tun. Add Add l* li kg. kg. (2i (2, tb.) lb.) sugar which has been dissolved
in l0 litres (9 quarti, I I sugar which has been dissolved in 10 litres (9 quarts,
II quarts) water. Mix well. Leave the tun uncovered until the quarts) water. Mix
weil. Leave the tun uncovered until the following following day. day. Add Add 50 50
g. g. (2 (2 oz.) oz.) brewer's brewer's yeast yeast which which has has been been
dissolved dissolved in a little hot water. Stir with a stick. Leave the tun open
for in a little hot water. Stir with a stick. Leave the tan open for 6 6 days.
days. Add Add more more liquid Iiquid every every morning morning and and evening
evening to to replace that lost lost through through fermentation. fermentation. On
On the the seventh seventh iav. day, replace that bung the barrel, and bung the
barrel, and on on the the eighth eighth day, day, bottle bottle the the beer. beer.
Boii Boil the corksin inwater waterfor for 55minutes, minutes, and and cork cork
the the bottles boules tightly. tightly. thecorks Home-made Home-madebeer beerIL
II. srtRE BIÈREor DEMfNlce MÉNAGE-- Boil Boil lm 100E. g. G (4 o;.) oz.) hulled g.
(lS (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2* cups) cups) sugar sugarand and aa hindful handful oi of
hulled barley, barley, 500 500g. l-top_r i" 4 litres (3] quarts, 4] quarts) water;
keep boiling hops in 4 litres (3t quarts, 4t quarts) water; keep boiling for hour.
oz.) yeast hour. Remove Removefrom from heat, heat,aaa add tO 10g. g.(* (~oz.)
yeastand and td 10 forf1 litres I quarts) litres(9 (9quarts, quarts,I Il
quarts)water. water. Leave bottleand and cork. cork. (A (Alittle little Leaveto
toferment fermentfor for44days, days,then thenbottle bu_rnt,sugar burnt sugarmay
maybe beadded added to tothis this beer beerto togive giveititcolour.) colour.) Mah
MALr adding -- This Maltbeer. beer.sriRE BIÈREos DE MALT Thisbeer beerisisobtainod
obtainedby byadding concentrated concentratedmalt maltextract extractto tothe
thewort wortand andletting Iettingititfermeni ferment slightly. slightly.It Ithas
hasmuch muchgreater greaternutritive nutritivepropertieJ propertiesthan than ordi_
ordinary andisisused usedas asaatonic, tonic,or orfor fornuising nursingmothers.
mothers. narybeer beerand

The extract is formed by dextrines, the maltose not trans_ The extract is formed by
dextrines, the maltose not transformed into alcohol, and by soluble nitrogenous
substances. formed into alcohol, and by soluble nitrogenous substances. It is
present in the proportion of from 4 io 9 per cent. This Itextract is present in the
proportion of from 4 to 9 per cent. This is what gives a sensation of fullness to
thi palate which extract is what gives a sensation of fuUness to the palate which
the tasters call the mash. rtis also due to this extiact that the the tasters cali
the mash. It is also due to this extract that the carbonic acid forms the
substantial froth or head which carbonic forms the substantial froth or head which
indicates acid careful drawing and skilful brewing. drawing and skilful brewing.
indicates Beer careful contains amyloides, protides, alcohol, minerals, Beer con
tains amyloïdes, protides, alcohol, minerais, vitamins, etc. It is an excellent
beverage easily assimilated by It is an excellent beverage easily assimilated by
vitamins, etc. the body. The alcohol and the hops' extract have a stimulat_ the The
alcohol and the hops' extract have a stimulatingbody. effect. It can be used in a
considerable number of dishes. ing effect. It can be used in a considerable number
of dishes. A Belgian Belgian culinary school strongly recommends the beer A
culinary school strongly recommends the beer dishes conceived by the late chef
Raoul Morleghem. dishes conceived by the late chef Raoul Morleghem. In- France, a
special governmental body makes a regular _ ln France, a special governmental body
makes a regular check on beers, and severely punishes anyinfraction, olth. check on
beers, and severely punishes any infractions of the manufacturing regulations.
manufacturing regulations. Besides the basic elements used in its manufacture
(barley, Besides the basic elements used in its manufacture (barley, hops, yeast),
beer is rich in mineral salts and vitamins (Br, and vitamins (B 1> hops, yeast),
beer is rich in minerai salts Bz,Brr, PP). Its consumption must be controlled,
orrather raihei B 2 , B 12 , PP). Its consumption must be controlled, or
drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and drastically reduced, in
the case of overweight, gout, and diabetes, as well as in certain types of
dyspepsla. It is recom_ diabetes, as in certain types of dyspepsia. It is
recommended as inweil diets for increasing weight, ind for nursing and for nursing
mended in diets for increasing weight, mothers, so long as it does not have too
strong an alcoholii mothers, sa long as it does not have too strong an alcoholic
content. content. Ale, and porter are consumed consumod in in much much greater
greater Ale, .stout stout and porter are quantities in Europe than in U.S.A. Some
ale is manufaitured quantities in Europe than in U .S.A. Sorne ale is manufactured
in the United States, but most American breweries produce a in the United States,
but most American breweries produce a

BEESTINGS. AMOUILLE .c,MouLr,E Name commonlygiven givento BEESTINGS. - - Name

commonly tothe the firstmilk milkof ofa a cow afterparturition. parturition. cow
after first BEESWAX. CIRE crRE Producttransformed transformedfrom fromthe BEESWAX.
- - Product thehoney honev absorbedby bytheworking the workingbee, bee,
whichitituses usesto to constructthe absorbed which construct the cellsin
inhoneycombs honeycombsand andin inthe theinterior interiorof ofthe thehive. hive.
cells Thename namecires ciresvégétales vigitalesisisgiven givento tosubstances
substancesextracted The extracted fromcertain certainvegetables, vegetables,in
particularfrom inparticular fromcertain certainpalms. palms. from BEET- -See
SeeBEETROOT. BEETROOT. BEET

lager beer which is

BEETROOT(U (U.S. Beet).BETTERAVE BETTERAVE - - There Thereare aremany BEETROOT .S.

Beet). many varieties of plant,sorne ofthis thisplant, somecultivated
cultivatedsolely solelvfor varieties fordistillery distillerv purposes, sorne
someas asanimal animal foodstuff foodstuff and andsorne, purposes, some,as asin
inthe thecase casl ofgarden beet,as asvegetable. vegetable. of garden beet, Among
bestvarieties the best varietiesof gardenbeetroot of garden Among the beetrootare:
are: red red stump-rooted,dark dark red redMassy, Massy, large large red, stum'p-
rooted, red,early earlyred globe, redglobe, dark red red turnip-rooted turnip-
rooted Egyptian, Egyptian, red globesummer dark beet, redglobe summeibeet,
globeearly dark red red globe early beet. beet. dark

iir:

Five varieties variclies of beelmol of beetrool

The The Romans Romans used used beetroot beetroot leaves as a vegetable. vegetable.
In Russian cookery cookery both both the the roots and the leaves Ieaves of of
beets beets In Russian are are used, used, notably notably for for various soups
soups (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Beetroot Beetraot soup soup d à
la la Russe). Russe). Beetroot Beetroot in in hors-d'euyre hors-d'œuvre is
refreshing refreshing and increases increases the the appetite appetite but but is
is not not recommended recommended for for sufferers sufferers of of dyspepsia
dyspepsia and and colitis, colitis, since since it it is is inclined inclined to to
be be indigestible indigestible and it, its cellulose "rra cellulose fibres fibres
can can cause cause flatulence. flatulence. For For information information on on
sugar sugar beet, beet, see see SUGAR. SUGAR. Beetroot Beetroot leaves Ieaves are
are perfectly perfectly edible, edible, and and are are used used in in manv many
recipes. recipes. In In France France the the roots, roots, boiled boiled or or
baked, baked, are are used used as as garnish garnish for for salads, salads, hors-
d'euvre hors-d'œuvre and and various various game game entries. entrées. Wash
Washand and scrub scrubthe thebeets beetswith witha a brush. brush. Dry Dry tlem
them and and bake bake in in the. the oyen. They They are are ready ready when when
they they bLgin begin to to .give, 'give' a a -oven. little, ifpressed pressed with
with a a finger. finger. Keep Keep in in a a cool cool place. place. little, if
Beet Beet i à l'anglaise. l'anglaise. BETTERAvEs BETTERAVES A À I'aNGLArsp
L'ANGLAISE _ - Choose Choose tender tender beets, beets, peel, peel, cut cut into
into slices slices and and boil boil in in salted salted water. water. Drain,
Drain,dry dryand and serve servewith with fresh fresh butter. butter. l18 118
sf,NEotcrN BÉNÉDICTIN
22beets beelSin in the the oven, oyen, peel, peel, and and cut eut into into fairly
fairly thick lhick slices. slices.

ntcruurr AA LA srlrBRA.vES Beetroot i illalab6chamel. - - Bake Beetroot béchamel.

SETTERA VES LA BÉCHAMEL Ba ke

2 2 cups) ClipS) pre-boiled pre-boîled cream. cream. Cook Cook down down by by
half,

Simmer inaasaut6 sautépan panwith wÎth22tablespoons tablespoons(3 (3

tabletableSimmergently in spoons) pinehof ofsalt. salt. spoons)butter and
andaapinch To Ta serye, serve, cover caverwith wîth not nOI too too thick thick
Bichamel Béchamelsauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), (0which whichbutter butlerhas
hasbeen beenadded. added. SAUCE),to Beetroot -- Stew incream. cream.BETTERAvEs
BETTERA VESAÀr.l LAcntue CRÊME Stewslices slicesof of Beetrootin beet beetin
inbutter. butter. Dilute Dilutethe thepan panjuices juieeswith with44dl. dl.(f
(tpint, scant scant
season, season, remove in 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz., oz., Il cup) cup) butter, butter,
and and remove from from heat, heat, blend blend in pour pourover overthe the
beets. beets. Beetroot garllish. BETTERAvES BITTERA VES PouR POlSR GARNITURES
GARNITVRES -Beetmot for for garnish. Choose Choosewell-shaped, well-shaped,
uniformly unifonnlysized sized beetroot. beetrooL Bake Dake them themin in the the
oven, oyen, allow allow to to become becorne quite quite cold, cold, and and peel.
peel. Cut Cut into into julienne. slices or dice, d ice. or or shred sh red into in
10 aa julienne. slices or Prepared Prepa re<! in in this this way way beetroot
beetroor can can be be served served as as a a garnish gamish for for hors-d'euvre
IlDrs-d'œu\'re or or for for salads. salads. Beetroot in gravy. BETTERAVEs BETTERA
VES AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed Proceed as as dedeBeetroot in scribed in the recipe for
BeetroOl in În cream, cream, replacing replacing the the for Beetroot latter by 2
dl. (+ pint, scant Clip) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock. stock.
scant cup) Boil the beets in few moments. moments. in the stock stock for for a a
few Beetroot Il la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. BETTERAvEs BEITERAVES A À u. LA
rvorvNllsn LYONNAISE - Melt Melt Beetroot I 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., oz., I~. cup)
butter butter in in a a pan, pan, add add 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (5 (5
tablespoons) finely chopped chopped onion, onÎon, cook cook slowly slowly without
without allowing it to colour, add add sliced sliced beetroot beetroot and and
simmer simmer together. together. (* pint, scant Before 2 dl. dL Ci pint, scant
cup) cup) Before serving, serving, moisten moisren with with 2 thickened thickened
brown brown veal veal stock. stock. portEvtt'ts - Stew Beetroot Beelroot i à la
poitevine. poitevine. BErrERAvEs.l, BEITERAVES À u LA POlTEVIl\i"E $tew sliced
beetroot becrroot for a few few moments moments in in 2 2 dl. dl. (* Ci pint' scant
sC<tnt cup) cup) Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE)' SAUCE). Add Add a
a tablespoon vinegar vinegar before serving. cAssoLETTEs DE Stuffd Stuffed beetroot
cassolettes. CASSOLETTES DE BETTERAvES BETTERAVES large Bake large as hors-d'œuvre.
hors-d'euvre. Bake served as These are are served cARMES GARNIES - These to Trim
these these 10 slices. Trim thick slices. into thick cut them into oven and en!
beets in the oyen comhors'd'euvre comwith cold cold hors-d'œuvre fill with and flll
like casso/elles cassolettes and look like look vegefish, vegeeggs' fish, (q.v.) of
hard-boiled eggs, of hard-boiled position: salpicons salpicons (q.v.) position:
pur6es, etc. etc' various purées, mayonnaise, various with mayonnaise, dressed with
tables, dressed

Season it with very large floury potatoes' this thisdish.) dish.)Cover Coyer it
with very potaloes. Season top' a lid on fat or butter' Place with sprinkle und
it.r. a lid on top, these and sprinkJe with fat or flour-and-water paste' Bake in
cinders a wlttr it r"uii"g sealing il with a ftour-and-water paste. Bake in cinders
glowing charcoal for 4 to 5 hours' Serve in the mixeiwith mixed with charcoal for 4
to 5 hours. Serve in the cooked' in which it has been recbptacle reœptacle in has
beell cooked. See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY' BELGIUM RELGIUM- - Sec INTERNATIONAL
COOKERY. dessert pear An excellent winter BELLE-ALLIANCE BELLE-ALLlANCE -- An
excellent winter dessert pear January). The skin is yellowish on one side and
ip"".*U". (Oecember and January). The skin is yellowish on one side other. and and
red redon on the the other. Variety of large winter pear' Its skin BELLE-ANGEVINE
BELLE-ANGEVINE-- Variety oflarge winter pear. Ifs skin becomes bright yellow,
flushed with red ir!t.* is green at atfirst, tirsl,then then becomes brîght yellow,
l1ushoo wilh red brown. and and pitted with wi th brown. in February and March, is
better to This pear, in season season in February and March, is beUer to pear, in
eat, and is used mostly for.filling decorative to atlhan look look at than 10 cat,
and is used mostly for filling decorative fruit. baskets of fruit. baskelS of
Variety of peach, with bright red BELLE-CHEVREUSE BELLE-CHEVREUSE -of pcach, with
red be eaten when it is just ripe; when it is too It should skin. skin. It should
be eaten when il just ripe; when is too becomes'sleePY'. flesh its ripe, ripe, its
ftesh becomes ·sleepy'. Another name for a variety of pear BELLE-DE-BERRY BELLE-DE-
BERRY - Another name for a variety of pear poire de curi' called called poire de
curé. Pear with mediocre flesh, usually BELLE-ET-BONNE BELLE-ET-BONNE - Pear with
mediocre flesh, usually in syrup or red wine. cooked cooked in syrup or red wine.

the for the France for parts of of France in some some parts used in Name use<!
BEGUINETTE -- Name BÉGUJNETTE garden warbler. garden

FRITTERS. SCC FRITTERS. BEIGNETS -- See BEIGNETS (18 oz., 3] oz.' 3 500 g. (18 I --
Pound Pound 500 (petits fours) fours) 1 Beignets Beignet .. (petits t cups) 5 sugar
and 5 (18 OZ., cups) sugar g. (18 oz., 2] cups) 500 g. with almonds wi blancfied
almonds blanched th 500 whites. egg whites. egg or orange or vanilla' orange with
vanilla, flavour with and flavour whole eggs, eggs, and 2 whole Add 2 Add with
Colour with pineapple. COIOUf crystallised pineapple. peel, or shredded
cryslallised or shredded lemon peel, lemon in J16 Fold in agent. Fold colouring
agent. or green vegetable colouring carmini or 6 carmine and buttered and into
bUHered and spoon spoon into egg whites, and stiffiy whisked egg stiffly candied
piecesof of candied with pieces Decorate with moulds. DecoraU! petits fours moulds.
flouied petilsfours f10ured inaa and bake bake in icing sugar sugarand with iCÎng
pineapple. Sprinkle Sprinkle with or pîneapple_ orange or orange oven. slowoyen.
slow (9oz., cups) g-(9 lf cups) oz, Il 250g. Pound together 250 tr --- Pound
Beigneb II generous cup) cup)sugar. sugar' (9oz., g.(9 oz.,generous and 250 g_
almonds and blanched almonds egg' whole egg. inone onewhole blend in andblend
mixtureand themixture tothe egg white white to Addone oneegg Add with vanilla.
vanilla. Flavour with Flavour into a very stifffroth and fold them into whites into
eggwhites Whisk88cgg Whisk with sprinkle with moulds,sprinkJe into small biscuit
moulds, Spooninto mixture.Spoon themixture. the oven. inaaslow slowoyen. andbake
bakein sugar,and icingsugar, icing

of historyof inthe thehistory goesfar backin farback thatgoes Adish dish,har

BEILCI{E - - A BElLCHE caisine. Germancuisine. German surMakesurbeef.Make ofbeef
roundof fatfrom froma around thefat andremove remove[he Trimand Trim notbe be
(theseculS mustoot cutsmust allover overitit(these cross-wise ail incisionscross-
wise faceincisions face pepper and withsalt, salt, incisionswith theincisions
insidethe Seasoninside deep).Season toodeep). too pepper and spices. spices. (In
pan'(ln cast-ironpan. orcast-iron largeterrine terrineOf beefinina alarge thebeef
Placethe Place for employed be usedto to receptableused silver Germany,a a special
Germany, special silver rcceptable he employed for
119 119

Peach which ripens in September and BELLE-GARDE BELLE-GARDE - Peach which ripens in
September and Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for October.
October. Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for in pastry-making.
compotes compotes and and in Pastry-making. fig, which grows in variety of very
large BELLONE large fig, which grows in BELLOI'\'E - A A variety of These figs are
used for preserves' Provence. Provence. These figs are used preserves. in Brittany.
The oysters of the beds there BELON - River BELON River in Brinany. The oysters of
the beds there same name. bear bear the the same name. sA'TTHAZAR - Colloquial
usage for copious BELSHAZZAR. BELSHAZZAR. BALTHAZAR -Colloquial usage for copious
the famous feasts mentioned in the to the an allusion allusion to meals; famous
feasts mentîoned in the meals; an Bible. Bible. Huso) - The white sturgeon of the
Bjack BELUGA (Huso Huso) - The white sturgeon of the Black Sea and other waters' It
is the largest of the Caspian Sea, Sea, Sea and other wa lers. ft is the largest of
the producing the best caviafe' sturgeon family, sturgeon family, producing the
bcsl caviare. a variety of ortolan found in the for Local name BENARI -- Local
BÉNARI name for a variety of ortolan found in the They are fattened in the same way
as the district. They Languedoc district are fattened in the same way as lhe
ortolans. For methods of preparation see district ortolans. Landes district For
methods of preparation see ORTOLAN. ORTOLAN. (Cake) - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9
oz., BENEDICTIN (Cake) BÉNÉDICTIN - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz., 2! cups) ground
almonds, 250 g- (9 oz., generous cup) fine 2! almonds, 250 g.yolks. (9 OZ., cup)
flne j *ttot" eggs is When the mixture and 12 egg .igut, the mixture is sugar, eggs
and 12 egg yolks. add 2 more eggs, one by one. Mix well, and add I r-toih, smooth,
add 2 more eggs, one by one. 100 Mix g. well, and add 1 (4 oz, I :"p) tablespoon
Benedictine liqueur; and tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; andpotato 100 g.flour (4
OZ., 1 cup) have which sieved flour, and 100 g. (4 oz',3 sieved Oour, and 100 (4
oz., ",-tp) potato flour which have been first sieved together. been flfst sieved
baking tins, sprinkle with flour, and 611 lvvs-lhirds Butter Butter bakîng sprinkle
with flour, and fil] two-thirds full with the caki mixtuie. Bake in an oven at
180'C. (350'F., full with the cake mixture. Bake in an oven at 180°c' (350°F., Gas
Mark 4). Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are Gas Mark 4): Remove cakes
from the tins as soon as they are and cool on a flat wire rack. Sprinkle each cake
with baked baked and cool on a flat wire rack. each cake with Benedictine, and when
this is absorbed, cover the tops and coyer' the IOps and Benedictine, and when this
is sides of the cakes with thick apricot jatn. Decorate the sides of the cakes with
thick apricot jarn. Decorale the sides sides withchopped chopped roasted almonds.
with roasted almonds. Ice the top of the cakes with pale yellow fondanticingwhich
lce the top of the cakes with pale yellow been flavoured with Benedictine, and when
it is sel make has has been flavoured with Benedictine, and when il is on it with
mauve fondant icing, using a patternof of squareson a apattern it wÎlh mauve
fondant a square with half a each the centre of forcing-bag. Decotate the a
forcing-bag. centre of each square pistachio nut. pistachio nuL The same mixture
can be used for small iced petits fours' smaU iced petits fours. The same mixture
can be use<:! for made as described above, but is steeped in Thecake cakeisismade
The as described above, but is steeped in and cut into uniform squares before
icing' Decorate liqueurand liqueur eut into uniform squares before icing. Dccorate
petit foar with a mauve fondant spiral' eich each petit four with a mauve fondant
spiral.
BENEDICTINE BENEDICTINE
BENEDICTINE. BÉNÉDICTINE s6NforcrrNE -- Renowned Renowned French French liqueur
liqueur BENEDICTINE. invented by by the Benedictine monks the Benedictine monks at
at the Abbey of F6camp, the Abbey of Fécamp, invented produced there. and still
still produced there. and BENfDICTII\B (À (A LA) LA) -- Garnish poached fish
Garnish suitable suitable for for poached fish BÉNÉDICTINE or eggs, eggs, composed
composed of (q.v.) of of a a brandade brandade (q.v.) of cod cod and and truffies.
truffies. or Salt cod cod à i la h bénédictine. benedictine. MORUE uonun À i, LA
L,c, BÉNÉDICTINE sfNEorcrrNE -- The The Salt pounded as cod is is pounded as for
for brandade, brandade, but potatoes but mixed mixed with with potatoes cod
prepared as (See SALT pur6e. (See as for for purée. SALT COD.) COD.) prepared

(Erit") -- Famous BERNARD (Émile) Famous nineteenth nineteenth century century chef
chef BERNARD employed by by Wilhelm Wilhekn l, I, King King of of Prussia. Prussia.
In In collaboration employed collaboration with Urbain Urbain Dubois Dubois he he
wrote wrote one one of of the the best best cookery cookery books with books
period: Cuisine of the the period: Cuisine classique. classique. of
(A LA) BERRICHONNE (À LA) -- Garnish Garnistr used for large used for large cuts
cuts of BERRICHONNE of meat and and especially especially for for mutton. mutton.
It It is is composed composed of meat of braised braised cabbage, sm small onions,
chestnuts chestnuts and and rashers rashers of cabbage, ail onions, of streaky
streaky bacon. bacon.
BERRY -- The The richest producing region richest sheep sheep producing region of
But of France. France. But BERRY lamb and and mutton mutton are are not not the
gastronomic assets the only only gastronomic assets of of lamb Berry. The province
has The province has always always had had a reputation for for bonne a reputation
Berry. bonne produces many chCre and and, produces many other other delicacies,
delicacies, solid solid and liquid. and liquid. chère The cuisine cuisine of of the
the Berry Berry region region has has an an agreeable agreeable simplicity.
simplicity. The poultry of There is is the good ground the fine fine poultry ground
and Bourges, good of Bourges, and winged winged There game, a great variety a great
variety of freshwater fish, of freshwater including Vierzon fish, including Vierzon
game, lamprey, and and excellent excellent fruit and and vegetables. vegetables.
lamprey,

Joseph Berchoux (l 765-l 839) Berchoux (1765-1839) Joseph

(Joseph) BERCHOLIX (Joseph) French poet, poet, born born at at SaintBERCHOUX -

French (Loire) in Symphorien-de-Lay (Loire) in 1765, 1765, who who made made a a
name name for for Symphorien-de-Lay gastronomical literature himself in in
gastronomical literature with poem entitled with a a poem entitled la Ia himself
Gastronomie, published published in in 1800. 1800. Berchoux was not Gastronomie,
Berchoux was not a gastronome, but poem was his poem but his was valued valued for
for its its zest zest and and lightligbtgastronome, hearted, witty witty tone,
tone, and and was was included included in in a a volume of volume of hearted,
gastronomic writers quality of writers of of the the quality of Grimod Grimod de de
la Reynière Reynibre gastronomic and Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, published
Charpentier in in 1829 l82g and published by by Charpentier under the les
Classiques Classiques de de la la table. table. under the title title les

Argenton-sur-Crelx Argenton-sur-Creuse (French (French Government Government

Tourist Tourisi Ofice) Office)
Bergamot

BERGAMOT BERGAMOT ORANGE. ORANGE. BERGAMoTE BERGAMOn: - Fruit Fruit of the the
bergamot bergamot tree, tree, a a kind kind of of orange orange with with avery a
very acid acid but but pleasant pleasant taste. The highly highly scented scented
oil oil extracted from from its its rind rind is is used used taste. The in in
perfumery, perfumery, pharmaceutics pharmaceutics and and confectionery.
confectionery. Candied Candied bergamot is used bergamot peel peel is used in in
phtisserie. pâtisserie. The The bergamots bergamots of of Nancy Nancy are are the
the most most sought sought after after in in confectionery. confectionery .
BERGAMOT BERGAMOT PEAR. PEAR. BERcAMoTE BERGAMOTE - Name Name applied applied to to
several severa! varieties of pear. pear. The The bergamote bergamote d'automne
d'automne is is the the best. best. varieties of BERLINGOTf BERLINGOT - A A hard,
hard, sweet sweet candy candy variously variously flavoured, fiavoured, but of
France France have have but usually usually with with peppermint. peppermint.
Several Several regions regions of their of berlingots; berlingots; those those of
of Carpentras Carpentras their own own special special variety variety of are are
renowned. renowned. t20 120

of

Cufinavy Culinary specialities specialities - These include include soups SOUps

with truches or tartouffes (potatoes), (potatoes), with reuves and salt pork;
sanguine, a kind of pancake pancake made made with with chicken's chicken's blood;
blood; various various kind of matelotes; citrouillat (pumpkin (pumpkin pie); pie);
sauciaux, a a peasant pancake; pancake; truffiat, home-made potato scone; scone;
grignaudcs,flat grignaudes, fiat cakes gs; poulet cakes made made of of pork pork
greaves greaves or or cracklin cracklings; poulet en en barbouille, barbouille,
chicken chicken coated coated with with its its own own blood; matafan, pancake;
pancake; potato potato gouere gouère or or gouiron. gouéron. Wines Wines - Wine
Wine connoisseurs connoisseurs have have a high high regard regard for for the the
wines of this this region. region. And, And, indeed, indeed, the the very very dry
dry white white wines wines wines of of of Berry Berry have have every right right
to to be be acclaimed for for their their delicacy delicacy and and bouquet.
bouquet. They They all ail come come from from the the Sauvignon grape. grape. Then
Then there there are are the the Sancerre Sancerre wines wines from from the the
vineyards vineyards surrounding surrounding the the town town of of that that name
name (immortalised (immortalised by by Balzac) Balzac) and and those those in in
the the neighbouring neighbouring communes, communes, particuparticularly Champtin,
Saint-Satur, Saint-Satur, M6n6trol, Ménétrol, larly Bu6, Bué, Verdigny, Verdigny,
Champtin, Reigny, Reigny, Sury-en-Vaux. Sury-en-Vaux. The The hamlet hamlet of of
Chavignol, Chavignol, near near Sancerre, Sancerre, produces produces famous famous
wine wine which which the tbe poet poet Hugues Hugues l,apaire, Lapaire, a a native
native of of Berry, Berry, placed placed far far above above the the rest. rest.
Chavignol Chavigno! was was also also highly highly esteemed esteemed by of Nohant
Nohant - George George by Balzac Balzac and and by by the the 'bonne 'bonne dame'
dame' of Sand. Sand.
BEVERAGE BEVERAGE

GAHE

Goat's Milk

Bgul, VierZOn Watnuts S I Melons Lamprey C H ER \ Crayfish. Coq ou vin. SheeP'

[::'giti:.T*"6jj' j"j lFrffi // Confectioherv, Beer l

MARCHE
of Berry Gastronomic map or Gastrollomie Berry

fish and and with with seafood, wines are seafood, fish are perfect with These
wines with the are best best drunk the region. They are cheese of of the celebrated
celebrated goat chccse slightly chilled. produced in in ros6 is is also also
produœd and fruit fruity dry and An y rosé An excellent excellent dry good viotage
grape. ln vintage In a a good Pinot grape. from the the black black Pinot Sancerre
Sancerre from year a source. good red comes.from the same same source. red wine
wine cornes' a very very good year from the which gives near Sancerre, Sancerre,
which is Menetou-Salon, near Then there is Then there already mentioned. Still in
the to those already white white wines wines similar similar to some white wines of
almost département dipartement of of Cher, Cher, at Quincy, sorne produced. quality
are equally fine fine quality are produced.
is beginning a wine wine is beginning to Term indicaling indicating that that a
BESAIGRE -- Tcrm SESAIGRE tum turn sour. sour.
and for salted salted and and Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6 for in the SESJ BESI --
Name Name in the Jura Jura and generic term for a a variety variety of of term for
is also also a a generie It is drîed cow's meat. meat. It dried cow's pear. pear.
rousette d'Anjou. pear, also d'Aniou. called rouselte also calle<! Winter pear,
Besi Besi de de Caissoy - WÎnter from a a pear, whieh its na name which cakes takes
its Besi me from Besi d'Héry rl'H6ry - Winter pear, it originated. forest where it
originated. forest in in Brittany Brittany where pear with with white, white,
succulent succulent Autumn pear Besi de la la Motte Motte - Autumn Besi de fiesh.
flesh.

wild to descrihe describe a a wild in France France to Term used used in StTE BETE
ROUSSE ROUSSE -- Term year old. boar months to to one one year old. boar six six
months
pear. There varieties, There are are many many varicties, BEURRÉ dessert pear.
BEURRE -- JuÎey Juicy dessert nouveanr, gns and d'hiver nouveau, and beurré beurrC
d'hiver among which are arc beurré beurrC gris among whieh beurri and February;
February; beurré in January January and whieh reach maturity maturity in which
reach ripe Gifard, ripe beurr| Giffard, Novembet; beurré and November; Cappiannonf,
Cappiannonf, Oetober October and beurrC Die!. Diel. and beu.rré at of July, at the
the end end of July, and to mouth to the mouth by the Liquid taken taken by
BEVERAGE. BoIssoN -- Liquid BBVERAGE. BOISSON

proportion of in tbe the of water re-establistr normal normal proportion maintain

or or re-establish maintain watcr in organism. 70 per cent water, approximately 70
Our bodies bodies con contain Our Iain approximately (5{ pints, 6} pints). litres
(Si of 3 3 litres eliminating daily an average of daily an eliminating a
C01nsi,cler'able considerable degree, to a When the water water content content is
When is lowered to have to to replace We therefore therefore have results. We the
sensation sensation of of tbirst thirst results. the which contain a foods whieh
partly by water eliminated, solid foods by solîd the watcr eliminated, partly the
of water, partly by liquids. considerable proportion ofwater, considerable have
been been "'VG'''''''invented. Apart from milk Numerous beverages have Numerous are
(q.v.) which liquid food, beverages are is considered a a liquîd which is (q.v.)
classified in 6ve five ... categories: classitied "t'p(1,n.n."" waters (see WATER).
l. Pure Pure water water and mineral mineral waters 1. (see INFUSIONS, INFUSIONS'
2. Aromatie Aromatic and and stimulating stimulating infusions (see 2. TE.!t) UEtf,
TEA) dHOCOTAiN, MATÉ, HERBAL TEAS, TEAS, COFFEE, COFFEE, CHOCOLATE. HERBAL Bavarian
these: Bavarian preparations based on these: based on as well well as as various
various preparations as (dealt with alphabetical in alphabetical with in etc.
(dealt bishop, etc. creams, iecd iced coffee, coffee, bishop, creams, order). by
juices, freshly modified by not modined and not extracted and freshly extracted 3.
Fruit juices, state in their their pure state either in drunk either fermentation,
whlch which are are drunk fermentation, (lemonade, juice), or (grape juice), sugar
(Jelm01naoe, water and with water and sugar or mixed mixed with (grape orangeade,
etc.). etc.). orangeade, wine; is winc; which tS principal of of whieh 4. Fermented
the principal Fermented beverages, beverages, the 4. liqueurs fruit liqueurs
various fruit perry, hydromel and various hydromel and then beer, beer, eider,
cider, perry, then large anotler large (dealt with There is is another order).
There with in in alphabetical alphabetical order). (dealt as to as referred to
group of beverages, refeITcd compound beverages. fermented or or compound of
fcnnented group section. in this this section. found in will he be found which wjll
economical or or medieinaL medicinal, whieh economieaJ and mixtures, and or
mixtures, 5. Fermented Fermented and and distilled distilled beverages or S. (dealt
with with in in al· alpreparations based alcoholic drinks (dcalt based on on
alcoholic phabetical order). normal The normal of beverages beverages - The
temperature of Quantity and temperarure nature, the the to their their nature,
according to varies according beverages varies intake of beverages

t2l 121
BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS DIETETICS BEVERAGES
requirements of of the the organism, organism, outside outside temperature
temperature and and requirements state of of health. health. Excessive Excessive
intake intake of of liquids liquids diminishes diminishes state appetite and and
impedes impedes digestion. digestion. In In sorne some cases cases it it is is
advisable advisable appetite increase the to increase intake of the intake liquids
in of Iiquids in order order to to improve improve eliminaeliminato tion and and
cleanse cleanse the the organism. organism. In In others, others, it it is is
advisable advisable to to tion reduce the intake of the intake liquids. of liquids.
reduce Should beverages beverages be be taken taken with with meals meals or in
between or in between Should meals? Man Man alone alone drinks drinks wbile while
eating; eating; other other animais animals meals? separate their their solid solid
feeding feeding from from absorption absorption ofliqu.ids. of liquids. Halfa Half
a separate (scant pin litre (scant pint,2t cups) water water drunk drunk on on an
an empty empty stomach stomach litre t, 2* cups) leaves it it in in less less than
than half half an an hour. hour. The The water water would would remain remain in
in leaves the stomach stomach much much longer longer if if accompanied accompanied
by by other other food. food. A A the meal eaten eaten without without drinking
drinking is is digested quicker and digested quicker and better. better. It It meal
is advisable, advisable, therefore, therefore, in people suffering in diets diets
for for people suffering from from is dyspepsia and and enteritis enteritis to to
separate separate the the intake intake qf o.f solids solids and and dyspepsia
liquids. They They should should drink drink an an hour hour or or so so before
before the the meal, meal, so so liquids. as to to ensure ensure that that the the
stomach stomach is is empty empty in in time time for for sol solid food. as id
food. The result result will will not not be be the the same if the same if is
taken the liquid taken after after the the liquid is The meal; the the stomach
stomach will will be be full, full. and and the conditions will be the condi be the
the meal; tions will same as as when drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy
same wb en drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy people, however, provided
the however, provided the amount amount of of drink drink taken taken is is not not
people, so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply. so excessive
as to impede digestion, the above does not apply. Too much much meat, meat, highly
highly spiced spiced dishes dishes and and the the excessive excessive Too use of
of salt, salq considerably considerably increases increases the the sensation
sensation of of thirst. thirst. use Diet consisting consisting mainly mainly of of
vegetables, vegetables, containing containing little little salt, salt, Diet
provoke thirst does not not provoke thirst so much. so much. does Moderately wann
warm beverages beverages dilate dilate the the blood blood vessels vessels of of
Moderately the stomach, stomach, are are better better absorbed, absorbed, and
quench thirst and quench thirst the efficiently. If If too too cold, cold, they
they cause cause the the contraction contraction of of the the efficiently.
abdominal capillary capillary system, system, and and may lead to to disorders,
disorders, at at abdominal may lead times of a serious of a nature: colic, serious
nature: precordial anxiety, colic, precordial anxiety, and and even even times
(loss of syncopes (Joss ofconsciousness ofblood consciousness from from fall fall
of blood pressure). pressure). syncopes These disorders disorders are are more more
likely one drinks drinks a a These likely to to occur occur if if one quantity of
quickly. To of cold cold liquid To prevent such occurrences, occurrences, Iiquid
quickly. prevent such quantity sportsmen are are advised advised to hot beverages
after violent sportsmen to drink drink hot beverages after violent exercise. Such
accidents occur less exercise. Such accidents occur less frequently frequently with
with iced drinks, because can only only be swallowed in sips. drinks, because these
these can be swallowed in small small sips. The palate's of beverages The palate's
reaction reaction to to various various temperatures temperatures of oeverages
varies varies according according to to their their nature. nature. Below Below 6"
6° to to 8.C. 8°e. (43. (43° to 47"F.) of being being ice-cold; ice-cold; it it is
is 47°F.) water water gives gives the the impression impression of pleasantly
pleasantly cool cool at at 12"C. 12°e. (54"F.), (54°F.), it it becomes becomes warm
wann and unpleasant 25"C.-(77"F.) unpleasant at at l6'C. 16°e. (61'F.), (61°F.),
and and at at 25°C: (77°F.) it it is is too hot hot for for most most people.
people. Aerated Aerated water water seems seems colder colder than tban ordinary
ordinary water water at at 6"C. 6°e. (43'F.) (43°F.) owing owing to to the the
release release of of carbon carbon dioxide, and remains dioxide, and remains cold
cold up up to to lO'C. 10 e. (50"F.), (50°F.), becoming becoming pleasantly
pleasantly cool cool up up to to l7'C. 17°e. (62"F.). (62°F.). The The temperature
temperature of of milk milk at at the the farm farm immediately immediately after
after milking milking varies varies between between 33" 33° and and 34'C. 34°e.
(91" (91° and and 93"F.). 93°F.). When heated (131" 55° to to 56'C. 56°e. (l31° to
to 133.F.) 133°F.) it it seems seems very When heated to to 55" hot hot and and
causes causes perspiration. perspiration. Wines. Wines. The The best best
temperature temperature for for an an average average white wbite wine wine is is
about about l0'C. 10 e. (50'F.). (50°F.). Some Sorne wines, wines, such such as as
Sauternes, Sauternes, can can be be (frappis). chilled chilled (frappés). Sparkling
Sparkling wines wines should should only only be be cooled cooled by by ice, ice,
without without adding adding salt salt (often (often an an expedient expedient in
in a a restaurant restaurant for for clients clients who who are are in in a a
hurry). hurry). These These wines wines lose lose a a great great deal deal of of
their their quality at a temperature (43"F.). below 6"C. 6°e. (43°F.). Red Red
wines, wines, quality at a temperature below especially especially the tbe great
great wines wines of ofBordeaux, Bordeaux, are are served served chambris
chambrésbrought brought slowly slowly to to room room temperature temperature (16o
(16° to to 18"C., 18°e., 61" 61° to to 64"F.). drunk at at a a cooler cooler
temperature, temperature, 64°F.). Burgundy Burgundy wines wines are are drunk and
and light light white white wines wines are are served served cold. cold.
0 0

Generally speaking, speaking, aa man man absorbs absorbsin in twenty-four twenty-

four hours hours Generally as many many cubic cubic cm. cm. of water as of water as
he he ingests ingests calories. calories. The The need need as for water water is
is related related to to the the chemical chemical composition composition of of
the the diet. diet. for protein-rich diet A protein-rich requires a diet requires a
considerable considerable hydrous hydrous intake. intake. A

FERMENTED BEVERAGES. BEVERAGES. BOISSONS nolssoNs FERMENTÉES rprurmurErs -- The The

FERMENTED manufacture of of fennented fermented drinks drinks demands demands a a
series of operaoperaseries of manufacture tions, often often complicated.
complicated. Spontaneous Spontaneous fennentation fermentation of tions, of grapes,
apples, apples, oranges, pineapples may oranges, pineapples may have produced a
have produced a grapes, pleasant drink drink by by chance; chance; but but chance
chance does not account account for does not for pleasant the alcoholic alcoholic
fennentation fermentation of of cows', cows', mares' mares' and and she-camels'
she-camels' the milk, which which does does not not take place of take place its
own of its own accord. accord. Still Still milk, more curious, curious,
historically historically speaking, speaking, is is the the transfonnation
transformation more of cereal cereal crops crops into into fermented fermented
liquor. liquor. Small Small tribes tribes in in the the far far of past, having
having neither neither fruit fruit nor nor milk milk nor nor cereals cereals at at
their their past, disposal, managed produce an managed to to produce an
intoxicating intoxicating beverage beverage disposai, from the the tubers tubers of
of cassava cassava or potatoes. The or sweet sweet potatoes. The use use of of from
fermented liquors liquors appears appears to peculiar to to be be a a need need
peculiar mankind. to mankind. fennented

,",n"31,1il!5f lf lll,1i,o,l8,'r-,r, in the seventeenth century (Guérard)

Cabaretier selling drinks

BEVERAGES BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS. DIETETICS. sorssoN BOISSON rN EN orertrreuE
DIÉTÉTlQUEBeverages Beverages are are of of supreme supreme importance importance
in in dietetics. dietetics. Water, Water, man's natural beverage, is man's natural
beverage, is essential essential to to him. him. It It is is possible possible to
to go go up up to to forty fort y days, days, and and even even more, more, without
witbout eating eating if if one one drinks of water; water; being being deprived
deprived of of it it leads leads drinks large large quantities quantities of to to
death. death. r22 122

Barley Barley cordial. cordial. BorssoN BOISSON D'oRcE D'ORGE - Put Put 5CI 500 g.
g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) ordinary ordinary barley barley and and 200 200 g. g. (7 (7
oz.) oz.) couch grass grass into into 20 20 litres litres (4] (41 gallons, gallons,
5] 5t gallons) gallons) water. water. Boil. Boil. Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz)
oz.) liquorice Iiquorice cut cut into into small small pieces. pieces. Leave Leave
to to get get cold, cold, strain, strain, and and bottle. bottle. Barley EAU D'oRGE
D'ORGE - Pour Pour boiling boiling water water on on a a handhandBarley water.
water. EAU ful fui of of barley barley and and bring bring to to the the boil boil
again. again. Pour Pour off off the the water water and 15 to to 20 20 and replace
replace with with boiling boiling water, water, this this time time boiling boiling
for for 15 minutes. minutes. If If pearl pearl or or hulled hulled barley barley is
is used, used, I 1 tablespoon tablespoon per per litre litre (scant (scant quart,
quart, generous generous quart) quart) water, water, there there is is no no need
need to to boil boil it Cook the the barley barley until until the the grains
grains split. split. it in in two two waters. waters. Cook Cider Cider type type
tlrink. drink. BorssoN BOISSON FAgoN FAÇON crDRE CIDRE - Blend Blend ll Il litres
litres (2| (21 gallons, gallons, 3 3 gallons) gallons) water, water, I 1 litre
litre (If, (li- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) double double !eer,
~eer, l0 10 g. g. (* (t oz.) oz.) citric ci tric acid acid and and a a large large
glass glass brandy. Decant into into bottles bottles and and tie tie down down the
the corks. corks. brandy. Stir Stirwell. weil. Decant This Thisdrink drink will
will be be ready ready for for use usein in 5 5to to 6 6days' days' time. time.
BEVERAGES BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS DIETETlCS
Clairet - Boil Boil 6* 6t kg. kg. (14+ (l4-!- lb.) lb.) carrots and 125 125 g. g.
(4 (4 oz.) oz.) liquorice liquorice roots fOOts in in l0 10 litres litres (9 (9
quarts, quarls, ll 11 quarts) water. waler. Strain, pressing the 10 extract as much
much the ingredients ingredients so so as to liquid liquid as as possible. Add g. Q
(9 oz.) tartaric acid, 250 g. (9 oz,2{ cups) Add 250 e. ground ginger, 2 2 kg.
(41b., lb., 9 cups) brown sugar and 2 litres litres (3* (3! pints, 4| pints) brandy
to the liquid. Pour into into a barrel of 100 litres (22 gallons, 28 gallons)
capacity. Fill with water, and leave for 8 days. Bottle and capacity. cork, tying
tying down down the corks. Economical drink I. I. BotssoN BOISSON fcoNoutQun
ECONOMIQUE - To To make EconomicaJ drink 60 60 litres litres (13 gallons, 16| 161-
gallons), put put 4 4 litres (3| (3i quarts, 4| 4:1 quarts) quarts) red or white
white wine into in to a tun, add add 56 litres (12{ (l2k gallons, gallons, 15| 1st
gallons) gallons) water, water, 2 kg. kg. e4 (41 lb., lb., 9 cups) cups) sugar
sugar (having ioto the tun), a a small (having dissolved it before putting it into
lemon Leave for lemon cut eut into pieces and and tied tied in a muslin bag. Leave
storing 5 to ta 6 days, stirring once once a a day, decant into bottles, storing
them them upright. Economical ECOllomiCal drink drink II. II. BoIssoN BmSSON
EcoNonnQuE ÉCONOMIQUE - Put Put into into a receptacle 20 litres (4j gallons, 5]
gallons) water, I 1 litre (lf receptacle 20litres cups) sugar and pints, generous
generous quart) wine, I kg.Q*1b.,4+ lb., I 1 lemon lemon cut eut into into slices.
Leave Leave to 10 macerate macerate for for 4 days, Bottle and tie down the corks.
This drink stirring once a day. Bottle will be ready for use in 4 to 6 days' time.
lime. Take a barrel of Elderblossom BOISSON DE DE SIJREAU SUREAU - Take of
Elderblossom cordial. BoIssoN gallons, l6f gallons) capacity, enlarge about 60
litres (13 (! 3 gallons,l6t enlarge the bung hole and with water. Put the following
and fill fil! the barrel barrel wîth cups) refined ingredients into a a muslin
muslin bag: 2 ke. (4f,1b., lb., 9 cups) sugar or, ifthat if that is not available,
ordinary granulated sugar, sllgar g. (2 oz.) I lemon oz.'1hops, g. (4 oz.) dried
elderblossom, 50 g. 100 g. hops, 1 juice squeezed 2l and 2t cut squeezed into the
water, and the thejuice water, and eut into pieces and (scant I pint, dl. (seant
pin t, generous cup) vinegar. Leave to infuse for 5 rest on on the days, stirring
with a a day. day. Leave a stick stick once a Leave to rest sixth day and bottle on
on the seventh (decanting into champagre bottles, possible). Tie down the corks.
This beverage pagne boUles, if ifpossible). ready for use in 5 days' time. Keep the
bottles will be ready boUles upright in the cellar. .Elder and lime cordial.
BOISSON TILLEUL BoIssoN DE SUREAU sTJREAU ET TILLEUL .EIder - Mix (6 litres (6 a
handful handful each and lime-tree leaves with 7 litres each of eider elder and a
(9 OZ., g. (9 cup) oz., generous eup) Add 250 250 g. water. Add quarts, 7| quarts)
water. sugar, 2lemons and and 1 glass vinegar. sugar,2 a day. day. Strain, 3 days,
stirring once a to maceratc macerate for 3 Leave to for ready for will be be ready
and lie tie down down corks. corks. This beverage wiU bottle and days' time. in 5
days' use in and stomachic. Spiced wine, tonie tonic and stomachic. HypocRAs --
Spieed Hippocras. HYPOCRAS red wine wine hip· hiphippocras, rcd cider hippocras,
There are are beer beer hippocras, hippocras, eider There pocras, ele. pocras, etc.
any stone fruit, flavoured wîth with any stone fruit, The beverage beverage can can
be be flavoured The etc. wormwood, violets, etc. vanilla, wormwood, oranges,
vanilla, r'^e.NcftIQLJE -- Leave HYPocRAs À A L'ANGELlQUE hippocras. HYPOCRAS
Angelica hippocras. AngeLîca (* oz.) pinch of nutmeg to to and a a pinch of ground
nutmeg fresh angelica angelica and 8 g. (t oz.) fresh 8 (red or (lf pints, generous
generous quart) cold wine wine (red or infuse in in 1 I litre litre (1:1taste. and
a brandy to to laste. little brandy Add sugar a liule 2 days. for 2 days. Add sugar
and white) for white) Filter. Pilter. g. 25 g. Leave 25 HypocRAs AU lu GENŒVRE
csNIivRE -- Leave Juniper hippocras. HYPOCRAS Juniper juniper (lf pints, (l oz.) I
litre infuse in in 1 litre (1 to infuse berries to oz.) crushed jun (\ iper berries
i pints, g. (2 generous quart) quart) cold alcohol, wine, mixed mixed with with 50
50 g. oz.) alcohol, cold wine. generous Q oz.) (3 OZ., g. (3 6 oz., 6 75 g. little
vanilla vanilla and and 75 for 24 24 hours. hours. Add Add a a liule for filter.
tablespoons) fine fine sugar, and filter. sugar, and re FRAMBOISE rnnunolsE --
Strain Strain HYPocRAs À A LA w .. " ... t,,,,..."V hippocras. HYPOCRAS Raspberry
gathered raspberries a raspberries over over a freshly gathered cups) freshly 500
g. (18 oz., 3f cups) (If, pints, quart) red red wine, generous quart) wine, pour in
pints, geoerous in 1 I litre (11 bowl, pour bowl, (2 oz.) and filter. filter. g. (2
alcohol, and add 50 50 g. oz.) wine wine alcohol, with sugar, sweeten with sugar,
add sweeten Infuse 2 2 Aux ÉPlCES fPIcEs -- Infuse HypocRAs AUX Hippocras with with
spices. spices. HYPOCRAS Hippocras (* oz., g. 0: a 15 g. tablespoons) nutmeg, a
cinnamon, 15 o2.,2 teaspoons cinnamon, teaspl:>ollS 2 lablespoons) (all ground g.
ground inta powder) in in 50 g. into powder) pinch of mace and and 3 cloves (ail of
mace 3 c10ves (l| piots, pints, (2 oz.) I litre litre (Ii for 2 2 days. Add 1 Leave
for days. Add alcohol. Leave oz.) alcohol. quart) white amber essence essence
generous quart) red wine, wine, 3 3 drops drops amber white or or red generous t23
123
and and 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar,
sugar, and and stir stir well. well. Leave Leave to ta stand stand for for 24 24
hours, hours, then then filter. tilter. Honey Honcy water. water. slu EAU
I\,IIEIIEE MlELLÉE - Dissolve Dis,<;olve some sorne pure pure honey honey in in hot
hot water, water, add add a little liule nrm mm or or brandy brandy and and a a
dash dash of of vinegar. vinegar. It Ii is ii> a a refreshing refreshing drink
drink but but does does not not keep. Hop Hop drink. drink. BoIssoN BorSSON AU AU
HouBLoN HOUBLON - Put into into a a 20-litre 20-litre ($-gallon,5fgallon) cups)
sugar, crock I (4}-gaUon, 1 ke. (2i lb., sugar, 2 2 Qtlb., handfuls handfuls hop
flowers, 8 8 to to l0 orange orange leaves Icaves and a a glass vinegar. vinegar.
Fill with wiÙJ water. water. Leave Leave to to macerate rnacerate for for 2 2 days,

41 +

stirring a cloth, c1oth, decant deeant into into stirrîng frequently. frequently.
Strain Strain through through a

bottles, boules, and cork, tying tying down down the corks. Hydromel Hydromel
(Codex (Codex recipe) recipe) - Dilute Dilute 100'9. 1OOg. G (4 oz., oz.,! cup)
pure pure ] cup) white 1 litre (If, (1 t pints, generous generous quart) quart)
warm warm water, water, white honey honey in 1 and strain. strain. Vinous part
honey and three three Vinous hydromel hydromel is made from one part parts water.
wa ter. Hygienic and drink. BoIssoN BOISSON nvcdNtQus HYGIÉN1QUE sr ET and
refreshirE drink. (11 gallons, Mix 50 litres n.arnlicrrlssANrE 1itres (II gallons,
14 14 gallons) litre water, litre (lj} pints, pints, generous generous quart)
quart) brandy, brandy, (scant pint,2lcups) coffee 1 kg. (2*1b.,4| (2t lb., 4i cups)
cups) brown coffee and and I sugar together. Stir well. weIL Kefr. rfrn - This
beverage, made from fermented cows' cows' The Caucasus. The milk, ii> used in in
countries bordering bordefing on on the the Caucasus. rnilk, is dried, preserved,
fermented kefir kefu is dried, preserved, and and transported transportcd in in the
the form of grains called form of ca lied pousse touiours. They They multiply
multlply inindefinitely by fermentation, so so that a a minute minute quantity
quantity is is enough to produce any amount of of kefir. ketir. (scant quart,
generous quart, generous I litre g. (ll Allow 40 a0 g. (11 oz.) kefir to t.o 1
litre (seant dilute with a stone stone jug, quart) Put the the kefir kefir into
into a jug, dilute with quart) water. water. Put for 24 24 hours. Stir and leave
stir, and slightly, stir, water, sweeten slightly, hours. Stir waler, sweeten leave
for in 6 6 or or Ready for and bottle. 4 days, days, and bOille. Ready for use use
in again, leave leave for 4 after bottling. 7 days' time arter Lemonade See
LEMONADE. Lemonade - See lemonade Ordinary lemonade GAZEUSE lemonade. LIMONADE
Lnvrone,DE GAZEUSE Fizzy lemollade. - Ordinary apparatus. means ofaerating of
aerating apparatus. dioxide by means aerated with carbon dioxide aeraled juice.
LfMONADE DE AtI SUC suc DE LMoNADE AU Lemonade with pomegranate juice. Lemonade
juice pomegranates from cRENADE GRENADE Extract the 6 ripe red red nA,n-."rr,.o,,.,
or by rubbing rubbing through pressing in a a fruit squeezer or either by pressing
juice of and the the and 2 oranges, oranges, and 2 lemons and of 2 a sieve. Add the
juice sieve. Add a water as much much water Add twice twice as zest of of 1 I lemon
lemon and and 1 I orange. orange. Add zest juice, sugar fine sieve sieve a fine
through a to taste, taste, strain strain through as Ihere there is is juice, sugar
to as lemonade. and chili chill the lemonade. and DE RÉGLISSE A L'ORANGEt'on.a.Ncn
EAU DE nfcr,tssn À Liquorice and orange water. EAU roots, liquorice roots, well-
washed liquorice 4 oz.) oz.) well-washed Put 80 to 100 g. (3+ to to 4 to 100 (*
oz.) orange g. G orange zest. pan. Add zest. l0 g. in a a pan. Add 10 cut into
small pieces, in eut quarts) water, for 4} quarts) water, boil boil for litres
(3{ quarts, 41 Cover wiÙJ with 4 litres Coyer a cIo cloth. minutes, and and strain
through a 5 minutes, th. proceed Using oatmeal, proceed EAU DE DE GRUAU cRUAU --
Using water. EAU Oatmeal water. water. recipe for for Barley Barley water. in the
the recipe as described in as ou oRANGETTE ou BoIssoN ORANGETTE Orangette Fr6nette
cordial. cordial. BOlSSON or Frénette Orange rte or 10 g. (2 of JO oz.) ash ash
tree tree leaves, peel of rnfNsrrE - Take Take 50 50 g. FRÉNEITE Q oz.) (2 oz.) g.
(2 oz.) (G lb., oranges, 3 kg. (6-i lb., 13 13 cups) cups) granulated sugar, 50 g.
oranges, (l oz.) yeast, bumt sugar. g. (1 burnt sugar. citric acid, 25 g. oz.)
brewer's yeast, ci tric acid, peel for for 25 25 or or 30 30 with the orange peel
leaves with Boil the the orange the ash ash tree leaves Boil (3| pints, pints)
water. a pints, 4t water. Strain Strain through through a 4] pints) 2litres minutes
in in 2 minutes litres (31 cloth. clotho ((* lb., granulated sugar in the the sugar
in 13 cups) cups) granulated lb., 13 Dissolve 3 3 kg. kg. (61Dissolve into a a
barrel g. (2 acid. Put Put into barrel citric acid. Add 50 oz.) citric 50 g. above
liquid. Add above Q oz.) (11 gallons, 14 gallons) eapacity. capacity. 14 gallons)
of about about 50 50litres of litres (II mix with 2 tabletablewith 2 water, m1x in
cold cold waler, Dilute 25 25 g. (1 Dilute 0 oz.) yeast in (3 tablespoons) buml and
add add to to the the barrel. barrel. burnt sugar and spoons (3 spoons and cork.
cork. days, bottle bottle and ferment for 8 8 days, to ferment Fill with with
waler, water, leave to Fill pea-pods. BOISSON DE COSSES cossEs DE DE BoIssoN DE out
of of pea-pods. Beverage made made out Beverage pots-vERTs - Put green peas peas
into and add add into a a stockpot pods of stockpot and of green POIS-VERTS - Put
pods get cold. cold. leave to to get and leave plenty of for 3 3 hours, hours, and
Boil for of water. water. Boil plenty (9 quarts, quarts) liquid. quarts, li liquid.
ll quarts) l0litres to 10 Add a a handful handful of sage to litres (9 Add Draw off
and boUle. bottle. off and a barrel. barrel. Draw ferment in a kave to to rerment
Leave Tonic DE RHUBARBE RHUBARBE -- Tonie EAU DORÉE DoRfiE DE Golden rbubarb
rhubarb cordial. cordial. EAU Golden

-
BEZIERS BÉZIERS
and apéritif ap6ritif obtained obtained by by macerating piece of macerating a a
piece of rhubarb rhubarb in in aa and jug ofwater. of water. Rice warer. water. EAU
EAU DE DE RIZ nz -- Proceed Proceed as as descnbed described in in the the recipe
recipe for Barley water. water. Three floweis cordial. cordial. BOISSON BorssoN DES
DEs TROIS rRors FLEURS FLBuRs -- Pu Put 50 g. Three t 50 (2oz.) oz.) hop hop
flowers, flowers, 50 50 g. (2 oz.) violet violet flowers flowers and and 35 35 g.
(2 oz.) eider elder blossom blossom into into 20litres (4| gallons, 5| gallons)
boiting oz.) water. Boil Boil for for 5 5 mihutes minutes and and strain through a
fine cloth. water. Pour ioto into a a barrel barrel with with 4| kg. (10 lb., 20
cups) brown Pour (scant piot. sugar. Add Add ~ litre (seant pint, 2l cups) vinegar
and 12 g. sugar. + litre (* oz.) yeast, broken oz.) brewer's brewer's yeast,
pieces. Mix broken up up into pieces. Mix weil. well. Fil! (t Fill the barrel
barrel with $"ith 80 gallons, 22 S0litres 22 gallons) water, stir the litres (17|
gallons, vigorously, bung bung the the barrel, and and leave leave to to ferment.
vigorously, Wipflavorned water. water. EAU EAU VINEUSE vrNEUsE Beverage for Wine-
D8I1/oured for convalescents, made made by by addiog adding a quantity of a small
small quantiry convalescents, of Ho,rdl~aUIJ( Bordeaux or Burgundy Burgundy wine
wine to to water water or water. A or soda soda water. A liule little sugar or
sugar and and lemon essence essenc€ is is sometimes ss6stimes added. added. lemon
Blackcurant wine. wine. VIN vnr DE DE CASSIS cAssxs Press ripe ripe blackcurrants
blackcurrants Blackcurrant - Press in a a tub, tub, and and leave leave for for 24
24 hours. hours. in Rub through a a sieve sieve or a coarse or a coarse cloth cloth
and and separate Rub separate the the juice. Cover Cover the remaining remaining
marc marc with with water, water, equalling juîce. equalling in in volume the
amount amount of ofjuice extracted, and and leave leave ta volume juice extracted,
to macerate for 12 12 hours. hours. Press Press through through the the sieve sieve
aga again. Mix the for in. Mix the two two juices, and g. Q oz., and add add 50 50
g. oz., t per litre (scant cup) sugar sugar per litre (seant juices, * cup) quart,
generous quart) quart) liquid. quart, Pour the liquid into a the liq a barrel
barrel or or sorne some other other receptac1e receptacle Pour uid into and leave
leave to ferment. When to fennent. When fermentation fermentation begins to and to
be established, bung the barrel, barrel, leaving an an opening the sile
established, size of of a vent-peg. vent-peg. ACter After a a few few days, remove
remove bung, bung to allow carbon a dioxide to escape. Repeat Repeat this operation
from from time time ta dioxide to time until there is no longer any risk of too
great an expansion of untll gas, then bung the barrel. Draw off offat gas, at the
end of six months. Cherry wine. VJ1l,1 vnr DE cERrsEr described in the OF. CERISES
- Proceed as deseribed recipe for BJackcurrant Blackcarrant wine. recipe Iig wine
ffguette. vrN Frcr.iEs (rrcunrrn) Fig wme or Of figuerte. VIN DE FIGUES ("""'-
llt' ..... ...,"\ - Put I kg. juniper berries into a small barrel. (2* lb.) and l0
(2-!lb.) dried figs and 10 juniper Add quarts) water Add l0 10 litres litres (9 (9
quarts, IIl quarts) water and and leave leave to macerate macerate for 6 to 8 days.
Strain the tbe liquid, bottle, boule, and leave for for 4 4 or 5 days before using.
using. crNcEnBRE - Put 9 Ginger wine. wine. vN VIN DE DE! G1NGEMBRE 9 kg. kg. (20
(20 lb., lb .. 40 cups) sugar into eups) into 40 40 litres litres (8f (8t gallons,
gallons, 1l Il gallons) gallons) boiling boiJing water. When the sugar sugar
dissolves, dissolves, add 300 300 g. (ll (Il oz.,2f oz., 2i cups) cups) pounded
gtnger ginger roots. mots. Boil for a quarter of an an hour, and remove from from
heat. heat. When the liquid is nearly nearly cold, add 250 g. (9 oz.) brewer's
yeast. yeast. Leave Leave to ferment in a barrel. Draw Oraw offafter off after
fennentafermentation, and when the wine is is quite clear, c1ear, decant into
bottles. boUles. Juniper wine. vnl VJ1I,1 or DE cnxGvns GENIÈVRE - Mix 5 kg. (II
lb.) honey (or (or brown brown sugar) sugar) with with 2 2 kg. kg. ( (~ lb.)
brewer's brewer's yeast yeast and and 50 kg. kg. l lb.) (l l0 lb.) (110 lb.)
crushed crushed juniper berries. bernes. Add Add 100 litres litres (22 gallons, 28
gallons) hot water water and and a little liulc crushed coriander. Pour Pour this
mixture into inta a a cask eask and and stir stir vigorously vigorously for for 5 5
minutes. minutes. Cover with boards, boards, sealing sealing the the cask eask
hermetically hermetically if if possible. possible. Leave ta ferment ferment in a
place with with a temperature of of 25"C. 25°C. Leave to (77'F.). When Wb en
fermentation is is complete complete ind the the wine wine has has become clear,
draw draw off off into mto a a keg keg and and put put in in a a place place with
with a a temperature temperature not not exceeding exceeding 15"C. 15~C. (59'F.).
(59°P.). At At the the end end of of one one month, mon th, draw draw off off again
again and and keep keep in in a a cellar cellar in a a full, full, wellwellbunged
bunged keg. !ceg. After After one one year, year, decant decal1t into into bottles.
boUles.
liquid liquid drawn drawn off. This is is aa biller, off. This bitter, aromatic,
aromatic, stimulating stimulating

(lf

4î

sugar and + dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant scant t cup) wine vinegar
vinegar * cup) into a small barrel. Add Add water. water. Leave Leave to macerate
for to macerate for 8 days, 8 days, then The wine wine wiU then bottle. bottle. The
will he for use ready for be ready use 8 after 8 days days after bouling in the
bottling in the wintcr, winter, and and after after 4 4 days in the days in the
summer. summer.
BÉZIERS proBEZIERS -- Town Town of of the the Hérault H€rault département
ddpartement which which produces great deal deal of duces a a great rd table of red
table wines. wines. The The culinary culinary specialities specialities of the
regron are are the of the the same same as as those those found found in in aU all
towns towns of of LangllJedloc. Languedoc. They They include include escargots
eseargots à it la h lodévoÎse; loddvoise; cabassols; cabassols; manouls; manouls;
small small Béziers pdtCs des B6ziers pdtis called PCzenas; called pâtés des
Pézenas; flaunes ar flauzonnes de Lodive; fouaces aux fritlons; and flaunes or
flmtzottnes de fouaces aux frittons; and oreilletes. oreilletes. BEZIEU BEZIEU SOEP
SOEP or or REDCURRANT REDCURRANT SOUP SOLTP @elgian cookery). cookery). SOUPE soupE
AUX Aur( GROSEU.LES water; Cook vermicelli vermicelli in water; cRosExr.rrs -- Cook
when when ready, add potato flour add salt salt and and patata little cold cold
diluted in in a a liule flour diluted water. Add redcurrantjuiœ water. redcurrant
juice and and sugar. sugar. BIARROTTE - Gamish BHRROTIE (À LA)Garni$ for for small
cuts ofmeat of meat comcomG LA) posed posed of galettes; the of âpes cCpes and and
ga/etles; prepared as latter, prepared the latter, as for for potatoes (see (see
POT Duchesse A TOES), form Duchesse pOlaLOes POTATOES), form the the base. base.
BICARBONATE BICARBONATE OF OF SODA. SODA. BICARBONATE BTcARBoNATE DE oe SOUDE souos
- In In medicine, tbis this is is used used as as ao an alkali and and antacid. In
In cooking, it is added addd to to sorten soften the water used used for certain
vegetables. It is is sometimes sometimes added added to prepared to the the water
water for for the the carrots carrots prepared à d la la Vichy. BICHIQUES Bichique
(See CURRY, Bichique BICHIQLJDS Very small small fish. fish. (Sec - Very curry.)

Raisin wLne. vn.t DE DE RAISINS wine. VIN I litre RArsrNs SECS Fut 1 litre (li
pints, sEcs - Put generous quart) raisins, 1, cups) GlU'" """_U g. (II oz.,
raisins, 300 granulated 300 g. oz.,l] cups) )';,

beverage.

(Il

(lf

-
BIGARADE BIGARADE SAUCE SAUCE. - See SAUCE.
BIGARREAU - Variety BIGARREAU Variety of of hard-fleshed hard-fleshed cherry,
cherry, rcd red and

white. (See CHERRY.)

Nineteenth century restaurateur. After ACter BIGNON (Louis) - Nineteenth a good

training and aod much experience a experienoe in well-known Paris restaurants, he
he took took over'the over the managernent management of Café Riche, CafC Riche,

which saon sole h à la Riche and woodcock it à soon became famous; sole Riche were
among among many noted specialities. The restaurant la Riclrc was frequented by
most of the men of letters leHcrs of the period. a remarkably intelligent man man
who who took took an Bignon was a inteiest înterest in in viniculture viniculture
and and agriculture. agriculture. He He received received the awards at world
exhibitions exhibitions of of agricultural produce, highest awards and became the
first French restaurateur restaurateur to be awarded the Legion Legion of of
Honour, Honour, in 1867. 1867.
BIGOS @olish (Polisb cookery) - Wash a 4 kg. (9 lb.) sauerkraut sauerkraul in BIGOS
several waters before before boiling it in water. water. Drain, Drain, and add 2 2
several pounded pounded onions on ions and and 4 peeled and and diced diced
cookirtg apples. apples. Mix well. weIL Fut Put in in a a casserole in layers
layers with with cooked meats meats Mix venison, chicken, chicken, mutton, mutton,
duck, ham, harn, sausages or such as venison, pickled pÎckled pork. Add Add butter
butter to to each each layer, layer, pour pour in in a little liule stock, and cook
in in a a slow oven oven for for 2 2 hours. hours. and About 25 25 minutes minutes
before before servin!, serving, add add a butter-and-flour butter-and-flour About
roux (q.v.'1 made made with with a a little liUle of the the liquor liquor in which
which the the roux SGLrerACrœw was was cooked, cooked, and and serve serve in in
this this sauce. sauce. sauerkraut

(ll

BIJAI\E BIJANE - Cold Cold soup soup popular popular in in the the Anjou Anjou
reglon region made made by by crumbling bread bread into into sweetend sweetened
red red wine. wine. crumbling
Bll,BERRY. MvRTTLLE MYRTILLE - Small Small plant plant common in in upland upland
BILBERRY. woods (naturalised (naturalised in in U.S.A.). U.S.A.). The tart taft
purple purple berries berries can can woods jam, syrups be stewed, stewed, and and
they tbey are are also also used used in injam, syrups and and liqueurs. liqueurs.
be Bll.E BILE the liver. livcr. It Tt is is called 'gall' in cookery cookery and
and in in industry. industry. the BIRD. oBBAU OISEAU - Many Many wild wild and and
domestic domestic birds birds are are edible. edible. BIRD.
124 124

Put Put 50 litres (l (1 I gallons, gallons, 14 14 gallons) gallons) juniper juniper

berries bernes into mto 100 litres wormlitres (22 (22 gallons, gallons, 28 28
gallons) gallons) water, water, add add 2 2 handfuls handfuls of ofwormwood wood
and and leave leave to to ferment ferment in in a a cool cool plaoe place for for
one one month. month. Filter Pilter and and bottle. botlle. The The supply supply
of of this this beverage beverage may may be he prolonged prolonged by by leaving
leaving the the berries berries in in the the receptacle receptacle and and adding
adding water wal.er to 10 replae replace the the
Juiper*ine WIDe (genewette).

vrN VIN DE DE cENdvRE GENIÈVRE (crr*rvnrrre)

-_.

Thiek, greenish-yellow, bitter bitter fluid fluid secretd secreted by by Thick,

BISCUIT BISCUIT

(Nrcolas) Biscuits (Nico/as) Biscuits

various small covers various the tenn term covers French cookery cookery the In ln
classic classic French roasted or are generally roasted which are type, which birds
of the the sparrow sparrow type, birds of cooked on skewers like larks.

(U.S. Lotus). LoTIER Lotus). LOTIER TREFOIL (V.S. BIRD'S-FOOT BIRD'S-FOOT TREFOa
grows abundantly in meadows, abundantly in plant which which grows Leguminous
Leguminous plant leaves, The leaves, crops. The cereal crops. in fields of cereal
and in highways, and along the highways, when pleasant fragrance, especially when
fragrance, especially a pleasant flowers have have a stems and flowers stems and
marinades. flavour marinades. to Bavour dried used to and can dried, and can be be
used plant are are of this this plant flowers of leaves and and Bowers the leaves
In In 'sorne districts the some districts rabbits hutch rabbits to hutch rabbit to
wild rabbit of wild flavour of used the Bavour impart the used to to irnpart of
bird'sbird'sa handful handful of with a is stuffed rabbit is stuffed with when The
rabbit when cooked. cooked. The foot after being drawn. foot trefoil being drawn.
trefoil after
BISCOTTE RUSK. See RUSK. BISCOTTE -- See

in and, in of biscuit, biscuit, and, many kinds kinds of to many BISCUIT applied to
BISCUIT -- Tenn Tenn applied cut to to mixture, cut ice cream cream mixture, made
of of ice French, an iced iced sweet, to an sweet, made French, to (See ICE
NeapoliAND ICES, ICES, NeapoliICE CREA CREAMS like biscuits look like biscuits (See
MS AND look tan tan ice ice cream). cream\. made to be be made used to DE GUERRE
GUERRE-These Army - These used Blsculrs DE biscuits. BISCUITS Army biscuits. part
water), water), (6 parts I part parts flour to 1 flour to paste (6 of a fairly
fairly substantial substantial paste of a completely offuntil cooled off and cooled
baked until completely 20 to 25 minutes, minutes, and baked for for 20 to 25 paste,
an? and to the the paste, was added added to leaven dry. aven was little le a
little dry. Sometimes Sometimes a it as It taste, as some taste, grve the dough
sorne the dough to give invariably invariably sorne someseasoning seasoning to were
and were to chew, chew, and difficult to were difficult had The biscuits biscuits
were no salt in it. it. The had no salt in liquid enough liquid not absorb absorb
enough good in did not as they they did not not much in soups, soups,as much good
when when soaked. soaked. food Army food of the the Army work of the work result of
of the After as aa result 1894, as After 1894, bread, army bread, by army replaced
by was replaced chemist, biscuit was Balland, biscuit chemist, BaBand, popular not
popular stillnot thougb still absorbant, though porous and which and absorbant,
wasporous which was wi th soldiers. with soldiers.

(U.S. cookies). Blsculrs DE DE cookies). BISCUITS BISCUITS (U.S. SWEET SWEET

BISCUITS pArnsnnrrPÂTISSERIE t25 125

A L'ABRICOT t-'lBnteor -(petits fours). Blsculrs À fours). BISCUITS biscuits

(petits Apricot biscuits Apricot yolks in a in a 16 egg egg yolks and 16 (18 oz.,
fine sugar sugar and g. (18 2| cups) fine Cream 500 500 g. oz., 2tcups) Cream Whisk
flour. Whisk (l lb. sieved Bour. 5l cups) cups) sieved g. (1 lb. 6 6 oz., oz., 51
Add 625 6ZS g. bowl. Add bowl. into the the fold carefully carefully into and fold
froth, and a stiff into a stiff froth, whites into egg whites the egg the paste.
paste. . . . the with the tins wlth. baking tms flour-sprinkled bakmg greased and
and Bour-sprinkled Half-fill greased Half-fill little a httle Add a forcing-bag.
Add a forcing-bag. piped through through a mixture, piped biscuit mixture, biscuit
sifting jam, and mixture, sifting remaining mixture, with the the remaining and
cover cover with apricot jam, apricot 20 for 20 oven for a moderate moderate oven
in a Bake in top. Bake the top. over the sugar over fine sugar fine tins. in
airtight airtight tins. minutes. When When cool, cool, store store in minutes.
(cookies). BISCUITS soumlfs BIscuITs SOUFFLÉS biscuits (cookies). soufl6 biscuits
Chocolate soufflé Chocolate and sugar and (18 oz., fine sugar g. (18 2| cups) cups)
fine oz., 2* Whisk 500 500 g. AU CHOCOLAT cHocor,Ar -- Whisk AU add is finn, firm,
add mixture is the mixture When the low heat. heat. When whites over over low l0
egg egg whites 10 has been been which has chocolate which (lL oz., g- (II softened
chocolate oz,l1 squares) softened 300 g. 300 II squares) whites. with 2 2 egg egg
whites. blended with blended sheet baking s?eet a buttered buttered ba.king onto a
forcing-bag onto a forcing-bag Pipe through through a Pipe into mixture Into the
mIxture spoon the flour, or or spoon with flour, dusted with has been been dusted
which has which (180'C., oven (180°C., moderate oven in aa moderate paper cases.
Bake in cases. Bake small paper smaIJ 4). Gas Mark Mark 4). 350oF., Gas 350°F., Mix
together together GENEvoIs -- Mix (cookies). BISCUITS BIscuIN GENEVOIS biscrrits
(cookies). Genoo biscuits Genoa yolks, 1 egg, I w~ole whole.egg, 3 egg egg yolks,
(4 OZ., g. (4 fine sugar, sugar, 3 cr.p) fine 125g. oz., t* cup) 125 with aa pinch
of Stir wlth of salt. salt. Stlr and aa pinch grated lemon rind and lemon rind
little grated aa little (2oz.,} melted g. (2 cup) melted oz., I cup) 50 g. Add 50 2
minutes. minutes. Add for 2 wooden spoon for wood en spoon g. ground almonds, 125g.
almonds, 125 (l* g. (1 tablespoons) ground o2.,6 35 g. butter, 35 i OZ., 6
tablespoons) butter, whites fold in in33egg eggwhites mix. Lastly Lastly fold (4
OZ., and mix. flour,and cup) sieved sieved Bour, oz.,l (4 1 cup) froth. toaastiff
stifffroth. whisked to whisked which have moulds whichhave into finger-shaped
finger-shaped rnoulds mixture into the mixture Pour the Pour and sugarand offine
mixture of fine sugar withaamixture and dusted dustedwith buttered and been
buttered been Dry the the oven. Dry (cornstarch). Bake inaavery veryslow slowoven.
Bake in cornflour (comstarch). comflour inairtight airtight tins. tins. andstore
store in sieveand biscuits on onaasieve biscuits Mix AUGINGEMBRE (cookies).
BISCUITS GINGEMBRE - - Mix BIscuITs AU biscuits(cookies). Ginger biscuits Ginger
ground teaspoonsgroun~ sugar, 2 teaspoons (4OZ., fine sugar,2 g. (4 125g. oz., tI
cup) fine 125 "rrp) until spoonuntii wooden spoon with liawooden yolks, stirring
with ginger and eggyolks, and44egg ginger stirring
BISHOP

BISHOP

quite smooth. Add 50 g. e oz., { cup) rice flour and 25 s.. quite smooth. Add 50 g.
(2 OZ., t cup) rice flour and 25 g. (l o2.,3 tablespoons) potato flour airdstir
stirweil. well.Fold Foldin in? (1 OZ., 3 tablespoons) potato flour and 4 egg whites
whisked to a stifffroth. eggPipe whites whisked to a stiff froth. the mixture onto
greased paper through a forcing_ Pipe the mixture onto greased paper through a
forcingbag, shaping it into small sticks. Splintcte with sugar, an? bag, shaping it
into small sticks. Sprinkle with sugar, and baking sheet. Bake in the oven at
lg0"C.I35b"F., n]ace 9nal baking sheet. place on Bake in the oyen at 180°C.
(350°F., Gas Mark 4) for 8 to l0 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in Gas Mark 4)
for 8 to 10 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in an airtight tin. an airtight tin.
Lemon biscuits (cookies). Brscr.rrrs AU crrRoN Cream LemoD biscuits (cookies).
BISCU1TS AU CITRON - - Cream g. (2 oz., 50 cup) fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until
the +cup) 50 g. (2 OZ., fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until mixture is firm. Add
grated rind of I lemon, 25 g. (l the oz., of 1 lemon, 25 g. (1 OZ., mixture is
firm. Add grated rind cup) sifted flour, lS e. G oz., 4 teaspoons) potatJ flour, i
t* cup) sifted flour, 15 g. (t OZ., 4 teaspoons) potato flour, 1 teaspoon ground
almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites
whisked to a stiff froth. stiff froth. piry through a forcing-bag into biscuits on
on wafer wafer paper. paper. _ Pipe through a forcing-bag into biscuits with
powdered sugar, and bake at 160.C. lZiS;f ., fnrinkle with Sprinkle powdered sugar,
and bake at 160°C. (325°F., Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding
Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding recrpes. recipes. Italian
biscuits. Brscurrs A r'nq.rrrNr.tr - Cream 500 g. ltalian biscuits. BISCUITS À L'IT
ALlENNE - Cream 500 g. (18 oz., 2f cups) fine sugar with l0 egg yolks until smoott.
O? OZ., 2,} cups) fine sugar with 10 egg yolks until smooth. Whisk the egg whites
to a stiff froth and fold into the Whisk the egg whites to a stiff froth and fold
into the mixture. Adg 190 g.-(4 o2.,3 cup) potato flour and 100 g. mixture. Add 100
g. (4 OZ., ! cup) potato flour and 100 g. (4 oz.,l cup) sifted flour. Mix well. (4
OZ., 1 cup) sifted flour. Mix weil. Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot
melted butter, Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, sprinkle
the entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tini sprinkle entire surface with
icing sugar, and fill the tins with the the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with more
icing sugar and more icing sugar and with the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with bake
in a hot oven. bake in a hot oyen. Turn out the biscuits, ice with Curagao-
flavoured icing, Turn out the biscuits, ice withCuràçao-flavoured icing, and
decorate the tops with candied orange peel. and decorate the tops with candied
orange peel. Small unleavened biscuits. pETrTs pArNS AzyME - Mix SmaU unJeavened
biscuits. PETITS PAINS AZYME - Mix 500 g. oz., 4| cups) sieved flour and 500 500 g.
(18 o2.,2f, 500 g. _(18 (18 OZ., 4!- cups) sieved flour and g. (18 OZ., 2,} cups)
fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the cups) fine sugar. Spread on the
table, make a well in the ggltre, put in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and g
eggs. centre, in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and 8 eggs. My to put a firm
dough, adding a little of necessary. Mix to a firm dough, adding a httle water
water of necessary. Leave the dough in a cool place. Roll out and cul into Leave
the dough in a cool place. Roll and cut into circles with a pastry-cutter. place on
a out lightly buttered circles with a pastry-cutter. Place on a lightly buttered
sheet, prick the biscuits baking sheet, prick the biscuits all ail over, over, and
and bake bake in in a a slow slow

Bison Bison

The American American is is different different from from the the European European
bison, bison, The which is is found found in in sorne parts of some parts of
Russia. Russia. which All methods methods of preparation indicated of preparation
indicated for for beef beef are are Ali applicable to to bison, bison, but but only
only after after marinating marinating the the meat meat for for applicable several
hours. hours. several
BISQUE Name of preparation in of a a preparation in the form of a the form pur6e, a
purée, - Name BISQUE more particularly particularly a pur6e of a purée of crayfish,
crayfish, or or other other shellfish, shellfish, more as a served as a thick thick
soup. soup. served Bisque soups soups in in the eighteenth century century were
were made Bisque the eighteenth made of poultry and and game game without without
any any shellfish, shellfish, and and were were not poultry pur6es, a presentation
of boiled poultry purées, but but a presentation of poultry or game, sometimes with
a a garnish of cocks' combs and kidneys. times served served with garnish of In of
Dons de In 1758, 1758, in in the the last last edition edition of de Comus, there
is a crayfish, which really recipe for for a a quail quail soup soup with with
crayfish, really was was a fcipe bisque soup, soup, made made of of quails, quails,
topped topped with with crayfish crayfish pur6e. purée. li.sque Bisque, Bisque,
therefore, therefore, probably probably meant meant a a soup, with with some sorne
kind of of meat meat and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. What What could could have
have given given the the crayfish pur6e purée the name name of bisque bisque soup
soup was was the the .addition addition of of crayfish crayfish meat to to various
various soups, soups, which which were were then th en called called bisques.
bisques. Bisques, Bisques, whether whether made made of of shellfish, shellfish,
poultry poultry or or game, game, are are considered considered high high style
style preparations, preparations, and and have have always always been been
excessively excessively spiced. spiced. For For Crab Crab bisque, bisque, Crayfish
Crayfish bisque, bisque, Lobster Lobster bisque bisque and Spiny Spiny lobster
lobster bisque, bisque, see see SOUp. SOUP.

3:5iloyen.

BISHOP (Mulled wine). BrscHoF - Hot beverage popular in BISHOP (MuHed wine).
BISCHOF - Hot beverage popular in northern European countries. northern European
countries. The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this The bischof (the
word can also be spelt bishop in this connection) is heated wine spiced with orange
and lemon connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon peel, cinnamon,
cloves, and peel, cinnamon, cloyes, and sometimes sometimes star star anise. anise.
It It is is
served mostly at evening parties. 19{ lishop. BrscHoF cr.lc6 - Pour a bottle of
Champagne Iced bisbop. ,BISCHOF GLACÉ - Pour a bottle of Champagne and 5 dl. (scant
pint,2f, cups) lime-blossom tea into abowl. and 5 dl. (scant pint, 2t cups) lime-
blossom tea into a bowl, add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a
add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a sufficient quantity of
heavy (32') sugar syrup to bring the sufficient quantity of heavy (32°) sugar syrup
to bring the mixture to a light syrup consistency (18.). Leave in a cool mixture to
a light syrup consistency (18°). Leave in a cool place for I hour. Strain through a
fine strainer. place for 1 hour. Strain through a fine strainer. Ice_as for a
granitd. Add 4 small glasses fine Champagne Ice as for a granité. Add 4 sm ail
glasses fine Champagne brandy and serve in punch glasses. brandy and serve in punch
glasses. Rhine wine bishop. BrscHoF AU vrN DU RHrN - Melt 250 g. ,^ wine bis hop.
BISCHOF AU VIN DU RHIN - Melt 250 g. (9 Rhine oz., generous cup) sugar and mix with
grated rind of (9 OZ., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of I orange and
I lemon, 2 cloves and a small stick of cinnamon 1 orange and 1 lem on, 2 cloyes and
a small stick of cinnamon dissolved in 3 dl. (| pint, l{ cups) water. Cook for 5
minutes. dissolved in 3 dl. (t pint, It cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes. Add I
bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam Add 1 bottle of Rhine wine.
Heat until a light white foam is formed on the surface. Sieve through a fine
strainer. Serve is fonned on the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve in a
jug or in a large silver punch bowl. in a jug or in a large silver punch bowl.
Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other Bishop can also be prepared
with Champagne or any other wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira,
sherry or wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or Marsala is
sometimes added. Marsala is sometimes added. BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied
to the ox and yak. It BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It
differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in differs from the ox by
its shorter, wider skull, the way in which the line of the back falls which the
line of the back falls away away from from the the rounded rounded humped
shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head 1 humped shoulders, by the thick
woolly coat covering head and forequarters, and by its beard. 1 and forequarters,
and by its beard.
126 126 served mostly at evening parties.

BISTORT. BISTORT. BrsroRTE BISTORTE - A A farinaceous farinaceous plant, plant, the

the roots roots of of which which are are twisted twisted in in an an S-shape, S-
shape, baked baked on on hot hot coals coals and and eaten eaten by by the the
Samoyeds Samoyeds instead instead of of bread. bread. The The tender tender leaves
leaves of ofthis this plant, plant, found found in in some sorne high high Alpine
Alpine regions, regions, are are eaten eaten like like spinach. spinach.
any any kind kind of ofmeat; meat; beef, beef, mutton, mutton, pork, pork, veal,
veal, chicken, chicken, rabbit, rabbit, etc. etc. Mince Mince the the meat, meat,
add add bread bread soaked soaked in in milk milk and and finelv finely chopped
chopped onion on ion (either (either raw raw or orlightly lightly fried), fried),
season, season, and and put put through through a a mincer mincer again again to to
ensure ensure perfect perfect smoothness. smoothness. Shape Shapeinto intocakes
cakesabout about4 4 clrn. cm.(lt (ltinches) inches)in indiameter, diameter,dredge
dredge in inflour, flour,fry fryin inbutter, butter,cover coyerwith withsour
sourcream, cream,and andsimmer simmerfor for 55to 7 minutes. to 7 minutes.

BITOK BITOK @ussian (Russian cookery). cookery). BrroKE BITOKE - Bitok Bitok can
can be be made made of of

BITTER. BITTER.AMER AMER-- Having Havingan an unpleasant, unpleasant, wormwood

wormwood taste. tas te.

gentian, pansy, gentian,germander, germander,hops, hops,Iichen, lichen,wild wild

pansy,lesser lessercentaury, centaury, quassin (bitterash), ash),cinchona,
cinchona,rhubarb. rhubarb. quassiaamara amara(bitter

or or decoctions decoctions are: are: wormwood, wormwood, camomile, camomile,

endive, endive,fumitory, fumitory,

Among Amongthe thebitter bitterplants plantswhich whichare areused usedfor

formaking makinginfusions infusions
BLANQUET BLANQUET
According According to to Foussagrives, Foussagrives, infusions infusions or or
liqueurs liqueurs made made of ofbitter bitterplants may may be be divided divided
into into five !ive classes classes (i) (i)purgative mU'oni""'" bitters, ; (ii)
billers, based on on rhubarb, rhubarb, aloes, aloes, etc. etc.; (ij) nauseous
nauseous bitters, based based on on camomile; camomÎle; (iii) (iii) astringent
astringent bitters, bitlers, which, wbich, with witb the the
Operation consisting of boiling BLANCHING. BLANCHJNG. srlNcHn BLANCHffi-- Operation
consisting of boiling them, or, various variousingredients ingredientsin in salted
saltedwater walereither eitherto toharden barden them, or, them' as as in in the
the case case of ofsome sorne green green vegetables, to ta cook cook them. water,
are Some Sorne ingredients, previously soaked soaked in in cold cold water, are as
in the blanched blanched in in water water (gradually brought brought to to the the
boil), boil), as in Ihe lambs' and calves' and trotters, heads calves' case of case
of calves' and aotters, calves' and lambs' sweetsweetskin. breads, breads, etc.,
etc., both both to to cleanse cleanse them them and and to to harden harden the the
skjn. to is blanched large dice, in (pork) generally cut Bacon Bacon (pork) fa!
fal.., cut in large dice, is blanched to green vegetables, extract extract surplus
surplus salt, salt, before fryingit. il. Certain Certain green vegetables, to
reduce such such as as green green cabbages, cabbages, onions, on ions, etc., etc.,
are are blanched blanched to reduce their their pungency. Other Othervegetables
vegetables and and fruiq fruit, such such as as tomatoes, tomatoes, peel. peaches,
etc., eIC., are are blanched hlaoched to to render render them them easier easier
to to peel. To remove skin, husk, etc. BLANCHING BLANCHING (Nuts). (Nuts). MoNDER
MONDER - To rem ove skin, husk, etc. of of almonds, almonds, walnuts, walnuts,
pistachios pistachios and and hazelnuts. ha:l.elnuts. skin. Pour Pour boiling
boiling water water over over the the shelled shelled nuts nuts to to soften soften
the the skin.

bitter bitter substance substance content content of of tannin, tannin, include

include

cinchona, cinchona, knapweed, KOiiDvveeiO. bark bark of ofchestnut chestnut tree,

tree, etc.; etc.; (iv) (iv) stimulating stimulaling bitters bitters (ap€ritifs)
based . based on on wormwood, wormwood, peel peel of of bitter bitter oranges,
oranges, gentian, gentJan, germander, gennander, hops, hops, etc. etc.; (v)
convulsing convulsing or or toxic toxic bitters bilrers ; (v) medicine. belong
belongin in the the province province of ofmedicine.

BITTER BITTER ASH. ASH, nors-AMER BOIS-AMER - Quassia Quassia arnara amara (q.v.),
(q.v.), used used in in
the the preparation prepara1ion of of ap6ritifs. aperitifs.

BLACKBIRD. BLACKBIRD. ri,rEnrn MERLE - Bird Bird of of the the thrush thrush
family, family, with with black black plumage plumage and and yellow yellow beak.
beak. Its lts flesh flesh is is aromatic aromatic in in flavour flavour and and
slightly slightly bitter, bitter, and and is is most most fragrant fragrant in in
autumn. autumn. Corsican Corsican blackbirds blackbirds enjoy enjoy a a great great
reputation. reputation. (See (See THRUSH.) THRUSH.)

BLACK BLACK CUMIN. CUMIN. NIGELLE NIGELLE - Plant Plant of of the the Ranunculus
Ranunculus family, family, the the pungent pungent seeds seeds of of which whÎch
are are used used as as a a spioe in ln India India and and the the Mediterranean
Mediterranean region. region. The The seeds seeds can cao be used used instead
instead of of pepper. pepper.
BLACKCURRANT. cAssls CASSl'\ BLADDER.
bush bush used used to to make make a liqueur (see (see RATAFIA) RATAFIA) and and
preserves. preserves.
vDssIE VESSLE - Membraneous Membraneous bag bag in in animals, animaIs., used used
after butchering butchering in charcaterie charcuterie to ta prepare prepare
certain certain dishes, dishes, for for example example Roum Rouen fucklins
duckling m en chemise chemise (see (see DUCK). DUCK).
- Fruit Fruit of of the the -

BLANCMANGE. -'These BLANCMANGE. BLANc-MANcrn BLANC-MANGER'These delicious delicÎous

sweets,' swects,' 'are said Carême in in his his Traiti Traité des des enftemets
entremets dc de douceur, douceur, 'are said Car€me they greatly greatly esteemed
esteemed by by gastronomes, gastronomes, but" but, to to be he enjoyed, enjoyed.
they two must must be be extremely extremely smooth smooth and and very very white.
white. Given GÎven these these Iwo be qualities qualities (so (so rarely rarely
found found together), together), they tbey will will {w1y,s. always be

blackcurrant blackcurrant

on BLAISOF BLAJSOIS or BIESOIS BLÉSOIS of France France bordering bordering on -

Region of the Loire. are of Blaisois The specialities specialities of specialities
Culinary Culillary speciaIities - The Blaisois are Orl6anais. similar to those of
nearby Orléanais. quality' for !heir their quality. known for well known rillons
are weil rillettes and and rillons Blois ril/eues particularly the the excellent,
particularly All the charcuterie charcuterie of this region is excellent, Ali (see
(blood) puddings black (blood) and black andouillettes and sausages, andouillettes
puddings (see same in the the same made in are made PORK); game pdtis; pâtés; lark
pdtis which are pdti,made Chartres pêllé, shape as the famous Pithivi ets pdtis;and
sbape and Chartres made ofpartridges. of partridges. fish, freshwater fish, pike,
carp and other other freshwater are the pike, excellent are Also excellent blanc
(see au beurre beurre blanc (q.v.), stewed, or or au prepared en en matelote
matelote (q.v.), following The """J'VU"'" quality. The good quality. of good is of
Blaisois is in Blaisois itlfE). Meat Meat in d la lapereau à gastronomes: lapereau
by gastronomes: esteemed by are esteemed specialities are Sp<~Cl:'1lJt.les Sologne
style); gAteau in the the Sologne (young rabbit cooked in rabbit cooked silognote
(young SOl,O!!!iIOle des de"rJoi.~eu.!?s demoiselles Tatin(see (see PITHIVIERS),
tarte des PITHIVIERS); tarte Pitiiviers (see I-"IIJ~"JJPr~ (tart) and and Orl6ans
cotignacs (q'v')' Lamotte-Beuvron (tart) TART) ; Lamotte-Beuvron TART); Orl6anais
include Saintand Orléanais Blaisois and of Blaisois Wines -- Wines Wines of Wioe5
Orl6ans the Orléans among the Beaugency among and Beaugency Meung and Jean-de-
Braye, Jean-de-Braye, Meung wines. Blois wines. the Blois of the Cdte-des-Grouets
of wines, and and .côte-des-Grouets wines, to and tend tend to of sun sun and lack
of from aa lack suffer from wines ofien often suffer These wines These local
perfectly with the local go perfectly with the but they they go edge, but on edge,
teeth on one's teeth set one's set region. of the the region. dishes of dishes
describe aa used to to describe usually used term usually culinary term A French
French culinary BLANC -- A BLANC flour in in and flour water and of water mixture
of from aa mixture made from court-bouillon made courl-bouillon certain andcertain
offal and white offal as white such as substances, such various substances, which
various which cultivated which cultivated n which A court-houillon court-bouillon
in cooked. A arecooked. vegetables, are vegetables, (se COURTCOURTblanc (sec called
blanc is also also called cooked is are cooked mushrooms are mushrooms BOUILLON).
BOUILLON). on either on based either stock, based whitestock, to white isalso also
applied ta name is This name This (see STOCKS, White Stocks). WiteStocks). chicken
(see vealor orchîcken veal orother other chickenor ofchicken define breaSI breast
of todefine isused usedto blanc Îs Theterm termblanc The volaille, de volaille,
asblancs blancsde onmenus menus as poultry whicb which are described on
aredescribed poultry etc. etc.

obgiventa toChampagne Champagne obNamegiven BLANC DE DE BLANCS BLANCS - - Name

BLANC distinct asdistinct white grapes,as from the Pinot-Chardonnay white
tainedfrom thePinot-Chardonnay tained grapes,the the'Blanc from blackgrapes,
frornthe obtainedfrorn theChampagne Champagne obtained from 'Blanc Noirs'.
deNoirs'. de
127 127

jellies.. This is preferred to to other other creams, creams, even even to ta

transparent jellies.This is creamy' because almond almond is is very very
nourishing and contains just right for sweetening the are properties which balsamic
balsamic properties which are just bitterness bittemess of of humours.' humours.'
'Blanch Blancmange Hhmc:ma'nee (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). BLANc-MANGER I:ILANC-
MANGHR - 'Blanch about 450 450 g. g. (1 lb., generous 3 3 cups) sweet sweet almonds
almonds and and about in a bowl of cold to soak them Leave almonds. bitter twenty
twenty bitter Leave to soak in a bowl of cold a sieve water, water, which which
renders renders them them singularly singularly white. white. Drain Drain on on a
sieve them, mortar, in a Pound napkin. and and rub rub in in a a Pound in a monar,
moistening moistening them, prevent at a with I tablespoon water little little by
by little, little,! water at a time, time, to to prevent into a fine oil. When they
them them turning tuming into ioto oil. they are are pounded pounded into a fine 5
glasses filtered water, dilute with and dilute paste, a bowl bowl and put into ioto
a with 5 glasses filtered water, paste, put a dish, over a a clean clean napkin a
time. at a time. Spread a httle at lOOeAi added a !iule napkin over dish, 2 people
twistin-g the with 2 and, with into it and, pour the the blancmange into pour the
milk. Put in 350 g- (12.o2., almond milk. press out out all the the almond napkin,
press napkin, oz., fine Sleve. a fine sieve. through a and rub rub through
granulated sugar sugar and l]-cupsf granulaled g. (l oz. plus add 30 30 g. again,
add once again, Sirain-through a napkin once (1 oz. plus Blend than tepid. Blend
little warmer warmer than a liule 4 grains) clarified isinglass a in a a and place
in mould and a mould into a with the blancmange. Pour into ice. with crushed ice.
container with container glass rum to the add t glass rum blancmange, blancmange,
add 'To make make rum 'To rwn to the blancmaraschino blanca maraschino make a To
make above. To described above. mixture described mixture glass maraschino.
maraschino. add 1mange, add I glass pots, prepare two-thirds of in small 'To serve
small pOIS, sweet in this sweet serve this prepare two-thirds of you will, however,
recipe; you preceding recipe; quantity given given in in tbe the preceding the
quantity tbe will, however, in small small served in blancmange as blancmange
served less isinglass, as little less a lîttle need a need it is to be turned out.
when than delicate more pots be to has pots has lo be more tban when it is ta he
tumed out. vanillq coffee, coffee, lemon, vanilla, with lemon, flavoured with be
flavoured can he Blancmanges cao Blancmanges and strawberries. strawberries.
hazelnuts and pistachio nuts, chocolate, chocolate, pistacbio nUlS, hazelnuts
incorporated-' be incorporalcd.' can also also he cream can Whipped cream Blanch
BLANc-MANGER (modern method). Blancmange HIElUclrnalllge (modem BLANC-MANGER -
Blanch 15 g' and 15 almonds and (9 OZ., sweet almonds g. (9 lit cups) sweet oz., li
and skÎn skin 250 g. and g. pound in a mortar and pound almonds and (L oz., bitter
almonds teaspoons) bitter o2.,5 H 5 teaspoons) in a mortar (scant pint, cups)
2{ litre with Dilute little water. water. Dilule with ~1 litre (seant pint, 2i
cups) with aa little with over a cloth over linen cloth coarse lioeu paste on on to
to aacoarse this paste Turn tlUs water. Turn cold water. cold a the paste milk.
Return almond all the out and squeeze bowl bowl and squeeze out ail the almond
milk. Retum the paste fresh water enough fresh pound again, adding enougb again,
adding and pound mortar and the mortar to the to water milk. almond milk. (scant
pint, pint,2l cups) almond extract ·;litre toextract I litre (seant lO 2i cups) (*
g' oZ.)softened softened 15 (! oz.) (7 oz.) Heat 200 200 g. (7 oz.) lump sugar, 15
Heat wooden spoon gelatine and stir with aawooden almond rnilk, and seir and the
almond gelatine itis is tepid, add I Whenil cool. When tocool. leaveta and leave
until ilit boils. boils.Strain Strainand until tepîd, kirsch. orkirsch. (6
tablespoons, seant! rumor cup) mm scant Icup) dl.(6tablespoons, dl. mould bavarois
pourinto into aabavarois mould iscold, cold, pour mixture Îs themixture When the
When plaoe on crushed ice' andplace oil,and almond oil, greased with withsweet
sweet almond On cmshed ice. an hour. afteran andserved servedafter outand turned
out beturned canbe The blancmange blancmange can hour.
(l

August. orAugust. inJuly Julyor ripens in pearwhich whichripens Frenchpear BLANQUET

- -French BLANQUE'!'
BLANQUETTE BLANQUETTE
There a-T kinds:the two. the and large the small blanquet. There are two kinds:
large and the small blanquet. They They aremediocre mediocre in flavour,and and
used mostlyfor for com-potds. are in flavour, used mostly compotes.

BLANQLIETTE - -White ragofrt,based Whiteragoût, based onlamb, lamb,veal veal

BLANQUETTE on or or chickenmeat, meat, boundwi with yolksand egg and cream,and
chicken bound th egg yolks cream, accomand accompaniedby garnishof bya agamish
ofsmall smallonions onions cookedinincourtpanied cooked court_ (q.v.),and
bouillon(q.v.), andmushrooms. mushrooms.Other Otheringredients ingredients are
somebouillon are sometimesadded addedto garnish. tothe thegamish. times Cutthe
themeat meatinto pieces.Coyer intopieces. Coverwith withwhite whitestock Cut water,
stockor or water, season and andbring bringto tothe theboil. boil.Remove
Removescum. scum. season Addan anonion onionstudded studdedwith withaaclove,
clove,a acarrot Add carrotand anda a bouqtetgarni garni(q.v.). (q.v.).Simmer
gentlyfor Simmergently for45 45minutes bouquet minutesfor forlamb lamb orchicken,
chicken,and and1i l| hours hours for forveal. veal.Drain Drainthe or and pieces
thepieces and retum them them to panwith tothe thepan withsmall smallonions retum
onionsand andmushrooms mushrooms whichhave have been beencooked cookedin inwhite
whitecourt-bouillon court-burillon (q.v.). (q.v.). which velouti(q. (q.v.) by
thickening thickening the Prepare v.) by theliquor liquorwith with -Prepare aa
velouté (q.v.) and whi3e roux roux (q.v.) and binding biriCing with with egg yolks
and white eggloks aridcream. .rra.. juice, Add.a-little_lemon sprinkle with
withchopped Add a little lemon juice, sprinkle ifiopped parsley, parsley,and and
garnish with with heart-shaped heart-shapedcroûtons cro0tons fried gamish friedin
inbutter. butier. Blanquette àI la la ménagère, n6nagdrgalso also caUed Blanquette
crlled Fricassée Fricass6e - _ Fry Frv pigces of of meat, meat, as as described
described above, above, in pieces in butter, butter, without *itt orrt alfowing
them them to to brown. brown. Sprinkle Sprinklewith allowing withflour, flour,stir,
stir, moisten moisten with white white stock stock or or water, water, bring bring
to with to the theboil, boil,season, season, and andadd add an onion onion stuck
stuck with with aa clove, clove, aa carrot an carrot and and aabouquet bouquet
garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). BT9 with with egg jrolks and egg yolks and cream,
cream, as Bind described in as described in the therecipe recipe ^ Blanquette. for
Blanquette. For For further further recipes for recipes for for various various
blanquettes, blanquettis, see LAMB, LAMB, VEAL, VEAL, CHICKEN. CHICKEN see
BLANQUETTE DE DE LIMOUX LIMOLX -- Sparkling BLANQUETTE Sparkling white white wine
wine made made by the the 'natural' 'natural' method; method; the by the sparkle
sparkle is is derived derived from gas from gas generated by by natural natural
fennentation. generated fermentation. A A second second fermentation fermentati-on
takes place in in the the bottle bottle without takes without the the addition
addition of (In of sugar. sugar. (In other words, words,.through other through the
the transfonnation transformation of of natural grup" n"turai grape in the the
parent wine sugar remaining in wine after after the the first first
fermentafermintiIt is is produced from the tion.) It the Mauzac Mauzac and and
Clairette grapes, Clairette grapes, and gets its name from the commune of the Aude.
of Limoux Limou in intnJeuae.

called lièvre (hare), because the shape ofof its head resembles (hare), called
liCvre because the shape its head resembles that of the hare. ItIt is is also found
inin the Jake ofof Bourget and the that of the hare. also found lake thi Bourget
and the fishermen of this region cali it it chasseur (hunter). InIn other fishermen
of this region (hunter). call chasseur other regions isis known asas bavecca.
regionsit it known bavecca. The blenny's fiesh, white and good in flavour, is
mainly _ The blenny's flesh, wiite and good in flavour, is mainly fried, but can
also be used asas an ingredient for matelotes fried, but can also be used an
ingredient for matelotis (q.v.). (q.v.). BLETTE - -Name sorne of France toto white
BLETTE Namegiven giveninin parts someparts of France white beet or chard. beet or
chard. BLEU - Method applied toto freshwater (Tocook BLEU(To cookau aubleu) bleu)
applied freshwater - Method fish, This fish into fistr,mainly mainlyto totroul.
trout. Thisconsists consistsof plungingthe ofplunging the fish into a aboiling
generally aa mixture of water boilingcourt-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.), (q.v.),
generaliy of water -iit,r.e and with and andvinegar, vinegar,seasoned seasoned
withsalt salt andsometimes sometimesspiced spicedwith with thyme thymeand andbay
leaf. bayleaf. Cooked skin the especially that of Cookedin inthis thisway, way,the
the skinof of fish, thefish, especially that of -accentuate trout, trout,takes
takeson onaaslightly slightlybluish bluishcolour. colour.To Toaccentua te the the
be sprinkled with pure vinegar, before blueing, can blueing, the thefish fish can
be sprinkled with pure vinegar, before immersing immersing ititin incourt-bouillon.
court-bouillon. AIl fish cooked All fish cookedau anbleu blatare generallyserved
aregenerally servedwith withmelted melted butter, handed separately; or with
Hollandaise sauce (see separately; or with Hollandaise sauce (see lgtlgfanded
SAUCE), SAUCE),or orany anyother other white whitesauce saucespecially
speciallyrecommended recommended for poachedfish. forpoached fish. BLEU called BLEU
D'AUVERGNE D'AUVERGI\E --Cheese Cheesethat isstill thatis stillsometimes sometimes
called Bleu Blat de deSalers, Salers, eaten eaten from from November November to
toMay. May. BLEU eaten from BLEU DE DE BASSILLAC BASSILLAC -- Limousin
Limousincheese cheese eaten from November November to to May. May. BLEU BLE-U DE DE
BRESSE BRESSE -- ROl.~nd Roqnd blue cheese from blue cheese fromthe
thecocooperative operative of of Servaz Servaz in in the the Ain. Ain. BLIND (To
bake). CUIRE À BLANC - Flan (pie shell) baked Cfo bake). curBE A sreNc - Flan (pie
shell) baked I|.II-VOi.e. 'blind', are baked in the 'blind', i.e. empty. empty.
Sorne Some tart tart and and fian flan cases cas"s'ir. baked in the oyen, removed
oven, and and filled filled with with dried dried vegetables, vegetables, which
which are are removed once the cases are cooked. They are then filled once the
cases are cooked. They are then filled with with the the ingredients ingredients
indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Cuire also describes the cooking
of certain Cuire au an blanc blanc also describes the cooking of certain substances
in a special (mostly white substances (mostly white offal offal or variety meats)
or variety meats| in a special court-bouillon cour t-bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.). BLINI
pancakes which have (Russian cookery) BLIM (Russian cookery) -- Blini Blini are are
pancakes which have been been made made in in Russia Russia from from lime
immemorial, especially time immemorial, especially during blini and various
fillings during Shrovetide. Shrovetide. Recipes for !.ecipes for blini and various-
fillings are given under HORS-D'ŒUVRE. are given under HORS-D'GUVRE. A. Petit, in
his Traité la cuisine russe, says that during A. Petit, nhis TraitC de de h cuisine
russe, says that during Shrovetide, humblest cottage to the richest palace,
Strovetide, 'from 'from the the humblest cottage to the richest palaci they ail
have their their blini, a day, the whole of that week'. they all have blini, twice
twrcn a day, the whole of that week'. Batter for for blini. bUni. pArs PÂTE À
BLINIS - Prepare a light batter of Batter A BLrNrrs - prepare a light batter of 20
g. (t oz., oz., I 1 cake) yeast diluted in t litre 2i 20 yeast cake) dilutod in I
litre (scant (siant pint, pint, 2l e. G cups) warm warm milk milk and and 50 g. (2
oz., t cup) sieved fiour. Leave cups) 50 g.Q oz., ] cup) sieved floui. Leave warm
plae place for 2 hours. ta ferment ferment in in a a warm to for 2 hours. Add 250
250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2| oz., 2i cups) sieved fi a ur, 4 egg yolks, 3 dl. Add cups)
sieved flour, 4 egg yolks, 3 dl. (t pint, pint, l| li cups) cups) wann warm milk
milk and a pinch -of of salt. Mix (| and a pinch salt. Mix thoroughly. Add 4 egg
whites whisked to a stiff froth, and thoroughly. Add 4 egg whites whisked a stiff
froth, and io 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t cup) whipped cream. Leave the I dl. (6
tablespoons, scant * cup) whipped cream. Leave the batter to ta rise rise for for
35 35 minutes. minutes. Make small pancakes, frying batter Make small pancakes,
frying them in in butter. bu tter. them

Bleak

BLEAK BLEAK (Able0. (Ablet). ABLETTE ABLETTE - Small Small European European
freshwater freshwater fish, fish, with with white, white, rather rather insipid
insipid flesh. flesh. It It is is used used mostly mostly for for frying. frying.

BLENDER BLENDER - An An electrically electrically operated operated appliance

appliance used used in in restaurant restaurant and and home home kitchens kitchens
for for chopping chopping and and pur6eing puréeing sm ail quantities quantities of
of foodstuffs foodstuffs in in the the preparition preparation oT of soups, soups,
small sauces, soufl6s, souffiés, baby babyfood food and and other other dishes.
dishes. It It is is also also usedto used to sauces, emulsifyeggs eggs for for such
such sauces sauces as as Hollandaise, Hollandaise, B6arnaise, Béarnaise, etc. etc.
emulsify
BLENNY. BLENIYY.
BLENNIE cAGNETTE CAGNETTE BT.ENNTE

freshwjiter fish. fish. All Ali the the other other members members of oftne the
blenny blenny family family f,reshwpter aresea seafish. fish. A Acharacteristic
characteristicwhich whichis iscommon common to to all ail blennies blennies are
isthe theabsence absenceofscales, of scales,the thebody bodybeing beingcovered
coveredwith withaalayer layerof of is viscousmucus mucusof ofexceptional
exceptionalthickness. thickness. It Itvaries variesin in size sizefrom from viscous
10to ta 15 15cm. cm. (4 (4to ta 66inches) inches) and and is is fawn-coloured,
fawn-coloured, speckled speckled l0 withbrown, brown,with withbrown
browntransversal transversalstrips stripsalong alongthe theback. back. with

A genus genus of of European European - A

mainly in England for breakfast and for high tea. The bloater bloateris grilled on
a low fire and served with melted The is grilled on a low fire and served with
melted butter or Maître d'hôtel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butter or Maltre
d'h6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). butters).
served

BLOATER. cRAeuELor CRAQUELOT - Slightly salted, smoked herring BLOATER. salted,

--slightly served mainly in EngJand for breakfast and smoked for high herring tea.

département. It Itis isparticularly particularlyplentiful plentiful in in Agde,

Agde, where where it it is is dCpartemenr.

The blenny blenny abounds abounds in in the the waterways waterways of of the the
H6rault Hérault The

BLOCK. BILLOT - Thick, short piece of tree trunk, placed BLOCK. BrLLor - Thick,
short piece of tree trunk, placed on three three legs, legs, which serves for
chopping-up meal. on which serves for chopping-up meat. A butcher's block is
usually a wooden table encJosed in a A butcher's block is usually a wooden tible
enclosed in a wooden frame. wooden frame.

128 t28
BONBON BONBON
BLOhID BLOND DE DE VEAU VEAU - Old Old French French culinary culinary term tenn
which describes describes white white veal stock. Car6me, Carême, nhis in his
Traiti Traité des sauces, sauces,
uses this term. uses
Whit€ is used used in in the preparation preparation of of some sorne brown White
veal veal stock stock is glazing certain sauces (see SAUCE) or for glazing certain
substances. substances. sauces clear BLOND DE VOLAILLD VOLAILLE - A synon)4n
synonym of of fond fond blond, c1ear
and can be removed like like a choke of of a cooked artichoke. artichoke.

or thickened chioken chicken stock (see SAUCE, Brown sauces). sauces). Rich veal or
chicken stocks are used for braising braising certain certain vegetables, ascelery,
lettuces, etc. vegetables, such su ch as celery, artichoke hearts, lettuces,

BLONDIR lightly cooking BLONDIR - The The operation operation of of!ightly cooking
any any substance substance in butter, butter, oil, oil, or or other other fat. The
term tenn faire faire blondir also also describes describes the the cooking of of a
The .). butter mixture mixture which constitutes a light roux (ql (q.v.). flour and
butter
SANG - The blood of butchered animals animaIs has has no BLOOD. sANG part in
nutrition but it has a number number of industrial uses (the sugar, the manufacture
treatment of wines, clarification of sugar, manufacture treatment products,
fertilisers, fertilisers, etc.). of coal products, The other blood) is The blood of
the the pig pig (often (often mixed mixed with with other used to to make boudin
(black pudding), pudding), and and the the blood blood of usd make boudin

This mushroom mushroom is found in in woods, under oak, oak, chestnut and and beech
beech trees trees and and sometimes under pines. pines. In ln the the Paris region
region it it appears appears in in April and and is is sometimes very very
plentiful plentiful in in the the autumn. The underneath may may be be white,
yellow yellow or greenish greenish but but never red. The stem is white, white,
yellow yellow or brown; it spots. The it should sbould never never have have any
any red red spots. The flesh flesh which which is exposed to the air remains white
and never becomes green; green; its taste is very pleasant, never never bitter.
Very old old cipes, cèpes, with green tubes and damaged damaged by by slugs, should
be avoided. pized mushroom; it The The cipe cèpe is a highly prized it is, is,
however, a little some authorities, !ittle indigestible. indigestible. According
According to to sorne authorities, its of other nutritive nutritive value, value,
like like that that of other fungi, fungi, is is insignificant. insignificant. (See
(See MUSHROOMS.) MUSHROOMS.)

rabbit, hare and chicken is used used to thicken the dishes called ca lied - after
the blood has been added civets, which - must not be heated above (l58°F.), the
temperature tempe rature above heated above 70°e. 70'C. (158"F.), above which
coagulates and blood coagulates and the mixture curdles. curdles. Poland Blood
soups are made in Sweden (svartsoppe) and Pol and (tchernina).
BLOOD PUDDING BLOOD PUDDING - See PORK. BLUE GAZELLE. oAz,ELLE BLLIE GAZELLF,.
GAZELLE cooked Iike like roebuck. BOAR - See WILD BOAR.

goat found BLELTE Edible goat BLEUE found - Edible very delicate, delicate, is
which is is very mainly at Its meat, meat, which mainly at the Cape. Its the Cape.

jar glass bottle bottle or jar BOCAL Wide-mouthed, short-necked glass BOCAL - Wide-
mouthed, pickling vegetables vegetables and and fruit fruit (gherkins, for for
bottling bottling or or pickling vegetables, cherries, cherries, small capers,
mixed vegetables, capers, small small onions, onions, mixed melons, etc.) etc.) or
for preserving fruit in brandy.
Bombe Born be moulds: mould ngit, old-fashioned old-fashioned round mould /e/r,
modem modern conical mould; right, left,

(lvon DU) (To have). CORPS a wine has has ou) -- One One says a BODY BODY (To coRps
(AVOIR in the mouth mouth produces a sensation of plenitude in body when it
produces and resulting from combination of strength and from a a harmonious
combination flavour.
in the liquid in BOILING. ÉBULLITION a liquid the The movement of a fsuruflor.I --
The a result process of vaporisation. as a vaporisation. Boiling takes place when,
as that of the of heating, the equal to to that the steam pressure is at least
equal liquid. constant. While a liquid is boiling its its temperature remains
constant. norm for The point of water has as the the nonn has been been taken as
The boiling point (212'F.). This This 100"C. (212°F.). comparative pufposes, and at
lOO°e. and stands at comparative purposes, of a a degree degree per temperature a
third by about about a third of decreases by temperature decreases (108 yards)
yards) of altitude. 100 m. m. (l08
cherry tree. BOIS - Variety offragrant of fragrant cherry BOIS DE SAINTE-LUCIE
SAINTE-LUCIE-Variety

in a (Ioe cream). a Ice cream cream made in BoMBE GLACÉE GLAcfE cream). BOMBE BOMBE
(Ice - !ce it is modem cookery cookery it In modern mould, hence hence its its
name. name. In spherical mould, (See ICE CREAMS, Bombes.) mould. (See made in in a
a conical mould. made
(Sweet, candy) not have have been been Sweets could could Dot BONBON (Sweet, candy)
BONBON - Sweets from the Orient by the Orient was brought brought from in Europe
until until sugar sugar was made in is known known century. It is returning
crusaders crusaders in the thirteenth century. the returning juices were were
carried experiments with sugar-cane juices that the first experiments 1230. Before
Before that that time, time, about A.D. A.D. 1230. in Sicily Sicily about Jews in
out by the Jews juice and honey, and honey, in France France with with fruit fruit
juice bonbons were were made made in bonbons or cinnamon. flavoured with amber or
order to to In order very rapidly. rapidly. In The art art of making sweets sweets
spread spread very of making The gentlemen great gentlemen well as as to court, as
as weil to the great appeal to the the ladies at at court, appeal methods
confectionery methods liking for sweetmeats, also had had a a liking sweetmeats,
confectionery who also During variety of of sweets improved and and the the variety
sweets increased. During were improved were was carried carried art was Renaissance
tbis this art of the the Renaissance the brilliant brilliant epoch epoch of the
gentlemen carried great gentlemen carried bonbonnières bonbonniDres further. Ali
All the the great even further. even bonbon. ladies. These These bonbonto the the
ladies. of sweets, which they they offered offered to sweets, which of with of them
them set set with of art, art. sorne some of works of niires were were often often
works nières precious stones. stones. precious great and a a great continued, and
confectionery continued, The making making of of confectionery The variety of is
available available today. today. of sweets sweets is variety principal groups
groups as as in four four principal can be be c1assified classified in Sweets can
Sweets pralines; (sugar-coated almonds) almonds) and and pralines; follows: dragées
dragies (sugar-coated follows: pastilles. boiled sweets sweets and and pastilles.
bonbons fondants; bonbons fondants: boiled preparations, now now factory-made,
factory-made, are are Other confectionery confectionery preparations, Other
caramels, also classed in the category of of bonbons, bonbons, such such as as
caramels, classed in the category also paste, a number of fruit paste, a certain
certain number of butterscotch, toffee, toffee, fruit butterscotch, preparations,
crystallised marzipan preparations, fruit and and walnuts, walnuts, crystallised
fruit marzipan into sugar cooked to to crack crack almonds and and hazelnuts
hazelnuts dipped dipped into sugar cooked almonds degree. degree.
129 129

for BOLÉE used for earthenware, used brown earthenware, BOLEE - Receptacle, usually
brown also drinking This tenn term also and Brittany. This drinking cider cider in
in Normandy and it is is Thus it applies in the receptacle. Thus the receptacle.
applies to cider contained contained in to the the cider said: 'Boire une - 'To 'To
drink a bowlfuJ bowlful of of drink a de cidre' cidre'said:'Boire une bolée bolie
de cider'. cider'.
BOLETUS (CCpe). BOLET about of fungi fungi of of which which about BoLEr -- Genus
BOLETUS (Cèpe). Genus of 70 one is is an an expert, in France. France. Unless
expert, the the 70 species are known Unless one species are known in gafely be
gathered is only is the can safely the be gathered which can only boletus boletus
mushroom which boletus de Bordeaux Bordeaux and and in France France as as cèpe
cdpe de boleni edulis, edulis, known known in young. It tête cap, It has has a t?te
de de nègre nigre when when it it is is young. a bronze-col()Ured bronze-coloured
cap, grows, it grows, white underneath, As it white and and swollen stem. As
underneath, on on a a white swollen stem. the overlap the the stem, stem, lighter
brown, brown, begins to to overlap cap becomes a lighter the cap becomes a green,
yellow. Later the tubes turn Later the turn green, the underneath becomes becomes
yellow. the tubes
BON.CHRNTIBN BON-CHRÉTIEN BON-CHREffEN -- A pear of A pear of which which two two
varieties varieties are are BON-CHRÉTIEN known; one one ripens ripens in in summer,
summer, the the other other in in winter. winter. known; The flesh flesh of pear is
of this quite sweet this pear is quite sweet but but aa little little gritty.
gritty. It It The is usually usually ealen eaten cooked. cooked. is
BOFDON -- Type Type of of cheese cheese manufactured manufactured in in Neufchâtel
Neufchdtel BONDON (See CHEESE.) in Normandy. Normandy. (See CHEF,SE.) in
MoELIT -- Flaky Flaky pastry pastry vol-ou-vent vol^au-vent filled filled while
while hot with aa hot with MOELLE (q.v.) salpicon (q of beef beef bone-marrow bone-
marrow blended blended with td,th Demi-glace Demi-glace salpicon .v.) of (se
SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), or very concentrated or very concentrated veal veal
stock. stock. sauce Flavour, if if desired, desired, with with aa little little
shallot shallot cooked cooked in in white white Flavour, wine until until ail all
the liquid has the liquid has evaporated. evaporated. wine

BOllE. os os -- Any Any of of the thE ,eparate parts of sQparate parts of aa

vertebrale vertebrate BO/lt'E. skeleton, fonning forming iL~ its framework.
framework. Bones Bones are are composed composed of of a a skeleton, cartilaginous
substance substance impregnated impregnated with with calcareous calcareous salts.
salts. cartilaginous By boiling boiling in in water, water, especially especially
under pressure, they under pressure, produce they produce By gelatine. Bones,
Bones, added added to give it to stock, stoch give gelatinous conit a a gelatinous
congelatine. sistency. sistency. Uses of of boues bones and and meal parins --
After meat panngs prolonged cooking, After prolonged cooking, Uses bones retain
retain a juices and a considerable considerable qu;mtity quantity of of juices
gelatini and geJatine bones which can can be be extracted, extracted, fiavoured
flavoured with with vegetables, vegetableg seasoned, seisoned, wbich and used used
for for soup. soup. and Boil down down this this stock stock until until it it is
is transformed transformed into into meat meat Boil jelly which keeps keeps weil
well and and can can be be used used for for strengthening strengthening jelly
which soups and and sauces. sauces. soups juices, the To extract extract ail all
the the jnices, the bones bones should should then then be be broken To up as as
small possible. This small as as possible. This second second stock stock is is not
not an an up proposition, unless economical proposition, unless it it can can be be
done done without without economical using any any further further fuel, fuel, for
for instance, instance, if if one one has permanent a permanent has a using fire at
one's disposaI. at one's disposal. fixe
BONE-MARROW. MOELLE MoELLE f,atty substance A soft, soft, fatty BONE-MARROW. - A
contained in in marrow-bones. marrow-bones. contained Spinal marrow marrow is part
of is that that part of the the central central nervous nervous system Spinal
contained in in the the spinal spinal cord. cord. The The spinal spinal marrow of
meat sold sold eontained marrow ofmeat in sections sections is (see OFFAL called
amourette amourette (see OFFAL or VARIETY or V in is called ARIETY MEATS). MEATS).
Beef bone-marrow. MOELLE MoELLE DE Cut the marrow marrow in Beef bone-marrow. DE
BoEuF BOEUF - Cut in poach (using a thick slices (using a knife dipped in water).
Poaeh in boiling boiling water). thick slices knife dipped without salt water,
water, and and drain. drain. This This is is used used to without boiling boiling
in in salt garnish steaks. steaks. garnish Beef bone-marrow, drained, is Beef bone-
marrow, diced, diced, poached poachcd and and drained, is also used in various
sauces. used in various brown brown sauces. Bone-narrov canap6s. CANAPÉS clNnprs A
À ra LA uoerm MOELLE Bone-marrow canapés. - Made from from the the marrow marrow of
of the the large large marrow-bone marrow-bone cooked in in the pt-au-fat pot-ou-
feu or or petite petite marmite marmite (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS).
BROTHS). These canapis served in These canapés can can be be served in two two
ways: ways: 1. L Spread Spread the the marrow marrow on on slices slices of of
toast. toast Season Season with with salt and and freshly frcshly ground ground
pepper. peppeL 2. 2. Spread Spread a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of marrow
marrow (poached (poached and and well weIl drained) drained) on on slices slices of
of toast. toasL Decorate Decorate with with strips strips of of marrow, marrow,
poached poached in in salt salt water water and and drained, drained, or or
seasoned seasoned with with pepperpeppercorns corns ground ground in in a a mill.
milL Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fresh fresh breadcrumbs breadcrumbs tossed tossed
in in butter butter and and drained. drained. Put Put the the canapis canapés in in
the the oven oYen for for a a few few moments. moments. Bone-marrow Bone-marrow
fritots frilols. FRrrors,i, FRITOTS À ra LA rraonrr.u MOELLE - Cut Cut into into
thick thick slices. together in in pairs pairs with with forcemeat forcemeat
(preferably (preferably slices. Stick Stick them them together it à gratin),
gratin), and and steep steep for for 20 20 minutes minutes in in oil, oil. lemon
lemon juice, juice, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and chopped chopped parsley.
parsley. Dip in Dip them them in a a light light batter, bat ter, deep-fry deep-fry
in in very very hot hot fat. faL Drain, Drain, dry dry in in a a cloth, cloth, and
and garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Salpicon of bone-
marrow. booe-marrow. sAI,prcoN SALPICON DB DE MoELLE MOELLE - Dice Dice the the
Salpicon of marrow marrow and and poach poach without without bringing bringing to
to the the boil. boiL Blend Blend with with (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace sauce
(see SAUCE), SAUCE), flavoured flavoured with with shallot shallot which which has
has been been cooked cooked in in white white wine wine until until all aIl the the
liquid liquid has has evaporated. evaporated. This This is is used used as as a a
filling filling or or garnish garnish for for flaky fiaky pastry pastry vol-auvol-
auvent vent and and canapis, canapés, fried fried bread bread (in (in fancy fancy
shapes), shapes), coddled coddled or or poached poached eggs, cggs, artichoke
artichoke hearts, hearts, large large mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. Bone-manow À
r,c LA Monrrn MOELLE - Sauce Sauce served served Bone-marrow sauce..sAUcE sauce.
SAUCE A with or saut6ed sautéed fish, fish, and and poached poached or or coddled
coddled wilh meat, meat, grilled grilled or eggs. eggs. (See (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.)
Small SmalJ vol-au-vent vol-au-vent with witb bone-marrow. bone-marrow. roucrmrs
BOUCHÉES A À rl LA
130 130

BONING. DÉSOSSER onsossm. -- The process of The process of removing removing the
the bones bones BONING. joint of from aa joint poultry or of meat, meat, poultry
other food, food, whether whether cooked or other cooked from or raw, raw, which
which con contains bones. or tains bones. The boning poultry requires boning of of
raw raw meat meat or or poultry requires skill, skill, since since The the bones
bones should should be be taken taken out out without without damaging damaging the
meat. the meaL the

BONITO. BONITE BoNrrE -- Small Small species of tunny, species of tunny, commonly
commonly BONITO. found in in the the Mediterranean Mediterranean and and on on the
the Atlantic Atlantic coast, coast, found where French French fishermen germon.It
fishermen also also cali is an call it it germon. important an important where lt
is fish on on the North American Pacific the North Pacific coast prepared in coast
and in and is is prepared fish (tuna). the same same way way as as tunny tunny
(tuna). the
BONI\E-DAME -- Common Common name name for for orach orach in in France. France.
BON/It'E-DAME
BONhIES-MARBS -- Vineyard Vineyard of of the Cdte de the Côte de Nuits Nuits that
that BONNES-MARES produces noted noted red red wines. wines. 11 partly in It is is
situated situated partly in the comthe comproduces Morey-Saint-Denis and and partly
in in that ihat of of Chambollemune of Morey-Saint-Denis (C6te-d'Or), and Musigny
(Côte-d'Or), and has right to legal right has the the legal to a a special special
Musigny (See BURGUNDY.) appe llation. (See BURGUNDY.) appella/ion.
pumpkin. BONNET-TURC of pumpkin. BONNET-TURC - Variety of

BONVALET cake, almost almost identical with the Olle one calI called BONV ALET cd -
This cake, was created pastry-cook, Jules created in in 1869 1869 by by a a pastry-
cook, Beauvilliers was Leroy, who who was (See was in charge of of the Maison
Machin. Machin. (See the Maison in charge Leroy, BEAwTLLTERS.) BEA UVILLlERS.)
BOOPS. BocuE Mediterranean fish which two specics species BOOPS. BOGUE fish of
which - Mediterranean are knowil" known: the the common common boops boops which
which reaches 35 cm. cm. (14 are reaehes 35 inches) in length, and bogue saupe. and
the the bogue inches) in This fish, fish, which which can can be d la la meunière,
meuniire, and and This be served fried, fried, à poached, and which is also used
bouillabaisse, is poached, and used in bouillabaisse, is remarkremarkable of its
colour olive-yellow on able for for the the brightness brightness of iL~ colour -
olive-yellow the back and and silver on on the belly. BORAGE. BORAGE. BouRRAcr{E
BOURRACHE plant. Its lts - Herbaceous perennial plant. flowers some regions of
France as as fritters. fiowers are are cooked cooked in in sorne fritter,. The
young young leaves Ieaves are used for flavouring fiavouring salads, iced drinks,
drinks, herbal herbai tea and vegetables, vegetables, and also aiso for flavouring
fiavouring claret cup.

BORAX BORAX or or SODIUM SODIUM PERBORATE. soRArE BORATE

DE souDn SOUDE-

This This was sometimes sometimes fraudulently used, used, under various names
names such such ars as 'preservative 'preservative powder', powder', 'antiferment',
'antiferment', etc., etc., for preserving butter, wine, etc. preserving meat, fish,
butter, Its lts use use was forbidden in in France bv by an order of of 14 14 Julv.
July, 1891. 1891.

BORD-DE-PLAT BORD-DE-PLAT - Small Small utensil utensil used used in in the the
kitchen to 10 protect proteet the the border border of of a dish on which food food
in in sauce sauce is being being
served. served.

BORDEALIX BORDEAUX - Gourmands, Gourmands, connoisseurs connoisseurs of of good

things things to 10 eat, and and gourmets, gourmets, experts in in the the subtle
subtle art art of of wine wine tasting, lasting, hold particular regard. regard.
hold this this town town in in particular Bordeaux, Bordeaux, whose whose wines
wines and food food were were being being sung long long ago by by the the poet
poet Decimus Decimus Magnus Magnus Ausonius, Ausonius, born born in in l.o. A.D.
310, 3 J0, is is the the birthplace birthplace of of one one of of the the greatest
greatest men men in in French French classical c1assical cookery, cookery, Dugl6r6.
Dugléré. He He had had for for long long been been in in charge charge of of the
the kitchens kitchens at at the the Cafi Café Anglaas Anglais in in Paris, Paris,
which which at at that that time lime was was frequented frequented by by kings,
kings, princes princes and and all ail the the most most illustrious illustrious
gastronomes gastronomes of of Europe. Europe. Culinary Culiosry specialities
specialities - Crayfish Crayfish d à la la bordelaise; bordelaise; lamprey lamprey
with wilh leeks; /eeks; mussels musse/s d àh la bordelaise; bordelaise; escargots
escargots d à In la Caudiran; Caudéran; jried whitebait; whitebait; sausages
sausages with with oysters; oysters; entrec|te entrecôte d à la la fried
bordelaise; bordelaise; leg leg of of lamb lamb d à la la ficelle; ficelle; chicken
chicken sauti sauté d à la la bordelaise; bordelaise; Pauillac Pauillac lamb lamb d
à la la persillade; persillade; foie foie gras gras with with grapes; grapes;
terrine terrine de de Nirac; Nérac; pdtd pâté de de foie joie gras gras au au
truffes; truffes; cApes cèpes
BORDEAUX BORDEAUX

0
o Red

10
wines
"

20
White wines

30K

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Map Map of the Bordeaux Bordeaux wine-growing wine-growing district district of the

,';
t

à garlic; pancakes à d la sautt with with garlic; la bordelaise; bordelaise;

aubergine aubergine sauté d la la bordelaise; pastry-cooks of bordelaise; and made
by and famous famous cakes cakes made by the the pastry-cooks of Bordeaux.
Excellent cheeses produced throughout region. cheeses are are produced throughout
the the region. Wines tu rai regions great viticul regions of of viticultural Wines
Bordeaux is is one of the the great one of - Bordeaux France, The wine wine wines.
The France, producing sorne of the world's best best wines. some of the world's
district within the the contained within district of Bordeaux is is completely
completely contained of Bordeaux borders mainly in parts Iying lying in the the
parts borders of of the the Gironde Gironde département, dlpartement,mainly along
Garonne and and along the rivers Gironde, Gironde, Garonne the course course of of
the the rivers Dordogne. for more than Dordogne. It more than It has known and and
esteemed esteemed for has been been known two poet Ausone years. Even sang the the
two tbousand thousand years. Even the Ausone sang the Latin Latin poet praises
praises of of these these wines. wines.

Bordeaux range of of wines: wines: very comprehensive comprehensive range Bordeaux

bas has a a very red, from from the the white, most liqueur-like; liqueurJike; red,
white, from from the driest to to the the most the driest (the Englishman's
'claret') to lightest most full-bodied. full-bodied. lightest (the the most to the
Englishman's 'claret') Besides 'generic' appellations of white white and and
appellations of Besides the the so-called so-called 'generic' red clairet and and
red Bordeaux, Bordeaux clairet Bordeaux, Bordeaux Bordeaux supérieur, sup6rieur,
Bordeaux Bordeaux produced ail region, the the Bordeaux rosé, all over over the the
region, ros6, which which are are produced in their great great divisions into
regions, regions, which which in their divisions are are sub-divided sub-divided
into tum divided into into vineyards vineyards and and appellations. appellations.
turn are are divided (9 Médoc. 15 km. km. (9 land approximately Midoa A long strip
of land approximately 15 strip of A long miles) and of the Garonne and miles)
broad, on the left banks banks of the Garonne broad, situated situated on the left
the in the Blanquefort in the south south to to the Gironde, Gironde, extending
from Blanquefort extending from Pointe are two distinct in the There are two
distinct Pointe de de Graves Graves in the north. north. There 131 r3l
BORDEAUX BORDEAUX
not-so-good years years but but capable capable of perfection in of maturing
maturing to to perfection not-so-good in great vintage years. White vintage years.
the great White liqueur-like liqueur-like wines, wines, very very the similar to to
Sauternes, Sauternes, are produced in are produced in the the south of the region.
south of similar the region. The dry dry white white wines wines of of Graves
Graves make make worth worthy companions y companions The oysters, seafood, to
oysters, seafood, fish fish and poached or and shellfish, grilled or shellfish,
poached or griiied or to in delicate delicate sauces. sauces. The The red red wines
wines serve purpose as serve the the same same purpose in as those of of Médoc.
M6doc. They, They, too, (See classificatoo, age age magnificently. magnificently.
(See those classification GRAVES.) GRAVES.) tion Sauternes-Barsac and and Cérons.
CCrons. These These wine wine districts districts form form aa Sauternes-Barsac
sort of of enclave enclave in in the the Graves Graves region region north north
and sort and west west of of produce white, Langon. They They produce white,
liqueur-like liqueur-like wines wines the Langon. the colour colour and tas taste
of honey, honey, and and have have a a flowery flowery bouquet, greatly bouquet,
greatly and te of esteemed by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. These These wines
wines are product of are the the product esteemed of the vinification vinification
of of over-ripe over-ripe grapes grapes which which are are almost almost in in aa
the crystallised state picked, owing state when when picked, owing to to the the
action action of crystallised of aa microscopic fungus fungus called 'botrytis',
which called 'botrytis', which encourages encourages the microscopic the sugar to
concentrate in to concentrate in the grape. Sauternes the grape. Sauternes wines
wines are are sugar usually consumed consumed as as dessert dessert wines, wines,
but but real real connoisseurs connoisseurs usuaJly like to to drink drink them
gras, fish them with with foie fish in in sweet sweet sauces like sauces and and
foie gras, parslied cheeses. certain parslied cheeses. certain Loupiac and and
Saint-Croix-du-Mont, Saint-Croix-du-Mont, situated on the situated on Loupiac the
opposite side of the picturesque slopes side of the Garonne Garonne on on
picturesque opposite slopes overoverlooking the the river, river, produce white
white wines wines similar similar to looking to those those of of (See
classilication Sauternes. (See classification tables.) Sauternes. Saint-Emilion.
This This wine wine district district is is situated situated on on the Saint-
Émilion. the right right bank of of the the Dordogne Dordogne east east of of the
the town town of of Libourne, Libourne, and bank and extends into into the the
commune of of the the same same name name and extends and several several
neighbouring areas. neighbouring Also worth worth rhentioning mentioning are
'satellite' appellations are the the 'satellite' Also appellations such as as
Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion, which which have such the
right havJthe to affix affix the 'Saint-Emilion' to the appellation appellatlon
'Saint-Émilion' to to their their own. own. Two be singled singled out: those of
the 'slopes' which the 'slopes' types of wine can be and more full-bodied, full-
bodied, and and those of the 'gravel', are rounder and the 'grave!', which are are
sappy sappy and and more tannic. Both Both have have the which more tannic. the
same same rubiness and and fullness fullness which make them ideal with red meat.
rubiness meat, game, meat and and sauce dishes, and and the cheeses. game,
appellatians contrôlées cont|lies of Saint-Émilion Saint-nmilion are: The
appellations are: Saint-The Emilion-Premier-Grand-Cru-Class6, Saint-Émilion-
GrandSaint-Emilion-GrandÉmilion-Premier-Grand-Cru-Classé, Cru-Class6, Saint-
Émilion-Grand-Cru, Saint-Emilion-Grand-Crq Saint Émilion. Cru-Classé, Emilion.
'Satellite' appellations: appe llations: Lussac-Saint-Émilion, Lussac-Saint-
Emilion, Montagne'Satellite' MontagneSaint-Emilion, Parsac-Saint-Emilion, Saint-
Émilion, Parsac-Saint-Émilion, Puisseguin-SJintPuisseguin-SaintÉmilion, Saint-
Georges-Saint-Émilion, Sablés-SaintSa-bl6s-SaintEmilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-
Emilion, Emilion. Émilion. Pomerol. This wine wine district district begrns begins
at at the the very very gates gates of Libourne. Libourne. A A ferruginous
ferruginous subsoil with a pebbly topsoil topsoil gives rich, rich, sappy, sappy,
full-bodied wines wines with with a pronounced pronounced personality personality
powerful bouquet and a apowerful bouquet - perfect perfect companions companions
for red meat, meat, meat in sauce, game (even (even big big game) and cheese.
cheese.

A Bordeaux Bordeaux vineyard (French Govemmenl vineyafi, (French Govemment Tourisl

Ofice) Tourist Office) A

divisions within within the the region: region: Bas-Médoc Bas-M6doc in in the the
north; north; divisions Haut-M6doc in in the the south south where where the the
communes communes of great of the the great Haut-Médoc appellations of of Margaux,
Margaux, Saint-Julien, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Pauillac, SaintSaintappellations
Estbphe, Moulis Moulis and and Listrac Listrac are are situated. situated. Estèphe,
M6doc wines wines are generous, and are tannic tannic and and generous, and mature
Médoc admirably. They They are are superbly superbly elegant elegant wines wines
with with a a fine fine admirably. bouquet and and aroma, aroma, and and make make
excellent excellent accompaniments accompaniments bouquet all types to all roast
and grilled meats. and grilled of roast meats. Those Those of of Moulis, to types
of Moulis, Listrac and and Saint-Estèphe Saint-Estbphe are are best drunk with with
red meat and and Listrac best drunk red meat game; of Margaux, Margaux, Saint-
Julien Saint-Julien and and Pauillac with Pauillac with game; those those of (See
accompanying white meat and lamb. lamb. (See accompanylng table table for white
meat and for the classification of these classification of these wines.) wines.)
The Chdteau-Haut-Brion in commune of of Pessac The Château-Haut-Brion in the the
commune Pessac is is not actually in in Graves, only exexnot actually in M6doc
Médoc but but in Graves, and and is is the the only ception the firs t grow th
category. ception in in thejirst growth category. Graves. The Graves region of
M6doc, Graves. The Graves region lies lies to to the the south south of Médoc,
encircling encircling the the town town of of Bordeaux Bordeaux and and extending
extending along along the the left bank of of the the Garonne Garonne to to the the
region region of of Sauternes. Sauternes. It Il left bank produces produces
red'sappy'wines red 'sappy' wines closely closely related related to to those those
of of M6doc, Médoc, good quality of lasting of good lasting quality and and with
with a a bouquet bouquet reminiscent reminiscent of of the the resin resin and and
undergrowth undergrowth of of the the nearby nearby pine pine forests; forests;
aristocratic aristocratic dry dry white white wines, wines, also also sappy, sappy,
with with a a superbly superbly elegant elegant bouquet bouquet and and taste,
taste, pleasant pleasant when when drunk drunk young young in in the

Dordogne Dordogne River River and andvineyards vineyardsof ofSaint-Andr6-de-Cubzac

Snint-André-de-Cubzac

r32 132
BORDEAUX BORDEAUX
Second Secondgrowth growlh

Mouton-Rothschild Mou ton-Rothschild

Rauzan-S6g1a..... :.. . . . . . Rauzan-Ségla ........... .'. . ......

. Rauzan-Gassies Rauzan-Gassies ..................... L6oville-Lascases. Léoville-
Lascases ................... L6oville-Poyferr6 Léoville-
Poyferré ................... . L6oville-Barton Léoville-
Barton ..................... Durfort-Vivens Durfort-Vivens .. ....................
Lascombes Lascombes ............. . . , ........ Gruaud-Larose-Sarget Gruaud-
Larose-Sarget .......... . ... Gruaud-Larose Gruaud-Larose ..................... .
Brane-Cantenac. Brane-Cantenac .................... Pichon-Longueville Pichon-
Longueville ................. Pichon-Longueville-Lalande Pich on- Longueville-
Lalande .......... Ducru-Beaucaillou Ducru-Beaucaillou ................. . Cos Cos
d'Estournel. d'Estournel .................... Montrose
Montrose .........................

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pauillac Pauillac Margadx Margaux Margaux Margaux Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-

Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Sain t -J ulien Margaux Margaux Margaux Margaux
Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Sain t -J ulien Cantenac Cantenac Pauillac
Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Saint-Julien Saint-J ulien Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe
Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe

Kirwan Kirwan .......... . ..... . .......... .

. Issan Issan .......... . .............. . ... Lagrange
Lagrange ......................... . Langoa-Barton Langoa-
Barton .................... Giscours .................... . ..... Giscours ..
Malescot Saint-Exupéry Saint-Exup6ry. Malescot ............. . Cantenac-Brown Can
tenac- Brown ................... . Boyd ..................... Boyd . . . . . ...
Palmer ........................... Palmer Lagune ........ " .............. La
Lagune La Desmirail ................. . ....... Desmirail Calon-Sdgur..... Calon-
Ségur ....................... Ferribre ........................... Ferrière .
d'Alesme-Becker ........... Marquis d'Alesme-Becker Marquis

growth Third Third growth

grapes at Pressing Pressing grapes at Saint-Emilion Saint-Emilion Ofrce) Tourist

Office) (French (French Government Goverrunmt Tourisl

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-

Julien Labarde Labarde

Margaux Margaux Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Ludon Ludon
Margaux Margaux Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe Margaux Margaux Margaux Margaux

wines; Pomerol wines; the Pomerol of the There classification of official

classification is no no official There is place. Château-Pétrus given first first
place. is usually usually given Chiteau-P6trus is Pomerol, de Pomerol, 'Satellite'
Lalande de of Pomerol: Pomerol: Lalande appellations of 'satellite' appellations de
and 'Lalande de appellatian'Lalande (which has the appellation right to to the the
right has the N6ac (which and Néac Pomerol'); red wines. wines. are red these are
of these all of Pomerol'); ail is rich rich Other Bordeaux is of Bordeaux district
of wine district The wine appellations. The Other appellations. glowingin the
strong strong glowing include the which include wines, which appellation wines,
other appellation in other of west of wines Canon-Fronsac, west and Canon-Fronsac,
Fronsac and de Fronsac C6tes de of the the Côtes wines of the andthe Libourne
Garonne; and of the the Garonne; bank of right bank on the the right Libourne on
Gironde, Bourgeois of the theGironde, bank of right bank onthe the right Blayais on
the Blayais and the Bourgeois and opposite Médoc. M6doc. opposite -Between inthe
triangle thetriangle Between the Dordogne,in and the the Dordogne, Garonne and the
Garonne the issituated formed situated the rivers, is two rivers, of the the two
confluenoeof the confluence by the formed by large region covets,aalarge
appellat.ioncovers The appellation 'Entre-deux-Mers'. The regton 'Entre-deux-Mers'.
mellow, but but production tobe bemellow, used to which used wine which whitewine
prbduction of of white demands which currentdemands meetthe tlecurrent drier to
tomeet anddrier vinified drier drieiand isvinified wni*r is have whichhave of good
redwines wineswhich verygoodred aresorne some very Thereare oftoday. today.There
the Bordeaux andBordeaux Bordeatrx and appellationsBordeaux theappellations right
to to the theright the supérieur. arethe there are geographical region reeron there
samegeographical Inthe thesame sup6riJur.In Premières, Vayres, deVayres, Gravesde
theGraves Bordeaux, the deBordeaux, C6tesde Premibres, Côtes Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire
Dordogne Dordogne ofthe the borderof onthe theborder and,on Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire
and, département, Saint-Foy-La-Grande dipar t ement,Saint-Foy-La-Grande.
CLASSIFICATION WINES MEDOCWINES THEGREAT GREATMÉDOC OFTHE CLASSIFICATIONOF First
COMMUNE coMMUNE Firstgrowth Château-Lafite ..................... . Pauillac
Pauillac . Chiteau-Lafite. Château-Margaux .................. . Margaux Margaux
Château-Latour .................... . Pauillac Pauillac Chflteau-Latour. (Graves)
Château-Haut-Brion ................ . Pessac (Graves) Pessac

growth Fourth growth Fourth Saint-Pierre- Sevaistre ........ .. ... . . . Saint-

Pierre-Sevaistre Saint-Pierre- BontemPs .............. . Saint-Pierre-Bontemps
Branaire-Ducru. BranaireDucru .................... .
Talbot ........................... " Talbot ... Duhart-Milon .. Duhart-
Milon . .................. . Poujet ........................... . Poujet
Carnet .................... . Tour Carnet LaTour La Rochet. Lafon Rochet
Lafon ...................... . Beychevelle ........................ . Beychevelle
Le Prieuré Prieur6 ........................ . Le Terme.................. . deTerme
Marquisde Marquis growth Fdth growlh Fifth Pontet-Canet.... Pontet-
Canet ............. . ........ Batailley .......................... Batailley
Grand-Puy-Lacostc.................. Grand-Puy-Lacoste Grand-Puy-
Ducasse ................ Grand-Puy-Ducasse Bages. LynchBages
Lynch ....................... Moussas .................... LynchMoussas Lynch
Dauzac... '" ..................... Dauzac ..... PhiliPPe............. Mouton-
BaronPhilippe Mouton-Baron Tertre ......................... Le Le Tertre Haut-Bages
................. . ..... Haut-Bages P6desclaux ........................ Pédesclaux
Belgrave ., ........................ Belgrave Camensac.............. . ..........
Camensac CosLa bory ....................... Cos-Labory Milon.......................
Clerc Clerc Milon Bages CroizetBages Croizet ...................... Cantemerle
Cantemerle ............ . ...........
133 133

Cantenac Cantenac Saint-Laurent SaintLaurent Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe Saint-

Julien Saint-Julien Cantenac Cantenac Margaux Margaux

Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien

Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Pauillac Pauillac

. Chiteau-Margaux . Chdteau-Haut-Brion

growth

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac PauilIac Pauillac
Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Labarde Labarde Pauillac Pauillac Arsac Arsac Pauillac
Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent
Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Macau Macau
BORDELAISE (A LA) BORDELAISE (À LA)
CLASSIFICATION OF THE SAUTER.NES WINES CLASSIFICA TION OF THE SA UTERNES WINES
First great growth coMMUNE First great growth COMMUNE Chdteau d'Yquem Sauternes
Château d'Yquem .................. . Sauternes
First growth First growth Chiteau-LaTourBlanche... Château-La Tour
Blanche ........... . ChAteau-Peraguey Château-Peraguey .................. .
Chdteau-Rayne-Vigneau.... Château-Rayne-Vigneau ............ . Chdteau-Suduiraut
Château-Suduiraut ................. . Chdteau-Coutet. . Château-
Coutet .................... . Chiteau-Climens Château-Climens ................... .
Chdteau-Guiraud . Château-Guiraud .................. . Chflteau-Rieussec Château-
Rieussec .................. . Chdteau-Rabaud-Sigalas . ... Château-Rabaud-
Sigalas ............ . Ch0teau-Rabaud-Promis .... . Château-Ra baud-
Promis ............ .
Second growth Second growth Ch6teau-Myrat .. Château-Myrat .................... .
Ch0teau-Doisy-Dubroca ... . Château-Doisy-Dubroca ............ Chdteau-Doisy-
Dadne . Château-Doisy-Daëne .............. . Ch0teau-Doisy-V6drines .... Château-
Doisy-Védrines ............ . Chdteau-Arche .. Château-Arche .................... .
Ch0teau-Arche-Lafaurie.... Château-Arche-Lafaurie ............ . Chdteau-Filhot .
Château-Filhot .................... . Chdteau-Broustet Château-
Broustet .................. . Chdteau-Nairac. . Château-Nairac ....................
. Ch0teau-Caillou . Château-Caillou ................... . Chdteau-Suau... Château-
Suau " ................... . Ch6teau-de Malle Château-de Malle .................. .
Chdteau-Romer-Lafon Château-Romer-Lafon .............. . Ch0teau-Lamothe-
Bergey .. . Château-Lamothe-Bergey ........... . Chdteau-Lamothe-Espagnet .
Château-Lamothe-Espagnet ......... . sfA.rrLr.EsÀ A l',q,NcrcNNn- -Fill Filla a
butteredring ring mould BÉATILLES L'ANCIENNE buttered mould with aa with vealor or
chicken Mousseline forcemeat (see FOnCEMEATS) chicken Mousse/ineforcemeat (see
FORCEMEATS) veal poachslowly andpoach slowlyin inthe the oven ina a (q.v.). bain-
marie When and oyen in bain-marie (q.v.). Wh en cooked,allow allowto to stand for
few minutesfor for the forcemeat to cooked, stand for aa few minutes the forcemeat
to settle. settle. Turnthe thering ringout outonto ontoa adish, dish,and andfi.!l
fillthe the centre witha a Tum centre with ragofitof oflambs' lambs'sweetbreads,
sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'combs combsand andkidneys, kidneys, ragoût trufresand
andmushrooms, mushrooms,mixed mixedin tna aVelouté (iee Veloutdsauce sauce(see
truffles SAUCE) flavoured flavouredwith withMadeira-laced Madeira-lacedTruffle (see
Truffiefumet SAUCE) fumet(see FUMET).Gamish Garnishwith withslivers sliversof
oftruffle truffieheated heatedin inconFUMET). concentratedmeat meatstock. stock.
centrated Ringfor forbrains brainsài la pi6montaise.BORDURE lapiémontaise.
nonounsDE DECERVELLE cERVELLE Ring pfuoNrArse - - Butter m PIÉMONTAISE Butter
aaring ringmould mouldand andfill ÀALA fillititwith with put Risotto
pidmontaise(see lapiémontaise (seeRICE). RICE). Put the themould mouldin inthe the
Risotto àdla ovenfor foraafew fewminutes minutesto heatit toheat itthoroughly.
thoroughly. oyen Turnout outand andfill fillthe centrewith thecentre withescalopes
escalopes of ofCalves' Calves'brains brains Turn (seeOFF OFFAL oTVARIETY
MEATS)mixed mixedwith with AL or VARIETY MEATS) àdlapoulette la poulette (see
slicedmushrooms. mushrooms. Decorate Decorate the thebrains brainswith with thin
thin slices slicesof of sliced truffiesheated heated in inconcentrated
concentratedmeat meatstock. stock. truffies Egg ring ring Brillat-Savarin. Brillat-
Savarin. BORDURE BoRDT.JRE D'OEUFS D'oEUFsBRILLATEgg BRTLLATsAvARrN Fill aa mould
mould with with Veal (see Veal forcemeat SAVARIN Fill forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS)
and poach in and poach in the theoyen oven in in aabain-marie FORCEMEATS) bain-
marie (q.v.). Turn Turn out out and and fill fill the the centre centre with with
eggs which have eggswhich (q.v.). have been been scrambled with with Parmesan
Parmesan cheese cheese and anddiced diced truffies. truffies. Sprinkle scrambled
Sprinkle grated Parmesan, with grated Parmesan, pour pour aa little little melted
melted butter butter over, with over, and and brown the the top top in in a a very
very hot hot oyen. oven. brown Egg ring ring à princesse. BORDURE pRrNcEssE -_ la
princesse. i la BoRDURE D'OEUFS D'oEUFs PRINCESSE Egg Prepare as as Egg Egg ring
ring Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, using using scrambled Prepare scrambled eggs
eggs with asparagus asparagus tips tips and and truffles. truffies. Scrambled
Scrambled eggs with eggs with with craycrayfish, shrimps, shrimps, fruits de mer,
mer, mushrooms, mushroomg truffles, fish, trufles, tomatoes, fruits de tomatoe;,
etc. can can be prepared in be prepared in the the same same way. way. etc. Cream
fish (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) is Cream is used fish forcemeat used for
forcemeat (see for Lenten entrées. entries. Lenten Fish forcemeat forcemeat ring
ring with with various various garnishes. garnishes BORDURE Fish BoRDURE DE DE
polssoNs - These FARcE DE DE POISSONS rings, also also Lenten Lenten fare, FARCE
fare, are are made made - These rings, of Cream Cream fish (see FORCEMEATS)
FORCEMEATS) of of of pike, fish forcemeat forcemeat (see whiting or or other
otherfish, whiting fish, moulded and baked as described above. above. They are are
filled with with a ragoût ragoitt of fish fish or shellfish, the followThey ing
being particularly suitable for the the purpose: Ragoût particularly sui table for
ing being Ragofit of of shrimp, nantua nantua or fruity o, normande normand" sauce;
fruits de de mer in shrimp, sauce; oysters oystrrc and oid mushrooms veloutd sauce;
mussels mussels à d la poulette; shrimps; mushrooms in in velouté shrimps; slic-es
uimi or à of lobster lobs ter or sp@ spiny Iobster lobs ter d à la crème s/ices of
d l'américaine; l,amdricaine; puries fish and mushrooms. fish purées or salpicons
salpicons with truffies truffles and Ring of frogs' frogs' legs legs vert-pr6 vert-
pré - BoRDURE BORDURE DE DE GRENOUILLES Ring of cRENourLLEs vrnr-pnf VERT-PRÉ -
Prepare Prepare the frogs' legs as described described in the recipe for.Aspic
offrogs' legs legs d à I'ancienne l'ancienne (see (see ASpIC), ASPIC), coating
coating thern them for Aspic offrogs' only only with with White White chaud-froid
chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer with jelly. jelly. Prepare Prepare
a a jelly jelly ring ring decorated decorated with circlets of truffies. truffles.
Season Season cooked, cooked, well-drained well-drained asparagus asparagus tips
tips with with oil, oil, yineg3l, salt and and pepper. pepper. Turn Tum the the
ring ring ou!out, and and put put the the vinegar, salt frogs' on iq it,
overlapping overlapping them them sliglitly. slightly. Fill Fill the the centre
centre frogs' legs legs on with !t" the asparagus asparagus tips tips blended
blended with with concentrated concentrated aspic aspic SF jelly. Decorate with
with truffie truffle dipped dipped in in jelly. jelly. jelly. Decorate

Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes preignac Preignac Barsac Barsac Barsac
Barsac Sauternes Sauternes Fargues Fargues Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes Barsac
Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes
Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac
Barsac preignac Preignac Farfues Fargues Sauiernes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes

B-O_RDELAISE (A LA) - Culinary term which applies to BORDELAISE (À LA) - Culinary

term which applies to different dishes in four categories. The first is
chariiterised different dishes in four categories. The first is characterised by
the sauce bordelaise, vvitth white or red wine and marrowby the sauce bordelaise,
with white or red wine and marrowbone fat; the second by the addition of cipes; the
third by bone fa t; the second by the addition of cèpes; the third by mirepoix; and
the fourth by a garnish oi artichokes and mirepoix; and the fourth by a garnish of
artichokes and potatoes. Other ingredients can be added. potatoes. Other
ingredients can be added. This term also applies to various sweet courses
(desserts), This terrn also applies to various sweet courses (desserts), cakes,
etc. (See MUSHROOMS, Cipes d ln b)ordetaisi'; cakes, etc. (See MUSHROOMS, Cèpes à
la bordelaise; CRAYFISH, MIREPOIX, SAUCE.) CRA YFISH, MIREPOIX, SAUCE.) BORDER
@ing). BoRDURE - Dishes that are served in the BORDER (Ring). BORDURE - Dishes that
are served in the form of a ringn which can be fonn of a ring, which can be made
made of of quenelle quenelle or or other other forcemeat, rice, semolina and
duchess potatoes for hot forcemeat, rice, semolina and duchess potatoes for hot
jelly, dishes; custards etc. dishes; jelly, custards and and creams, creams, rice
rice di,impdratrice, à l'impératrice, etc. for cold and sweet dishes. for cold and
sweet dishes. Borders can be made of small cro0tons of bread, cut into Borders can
be made of small croûtons of bread, cut into vqigus shapes and frled in butter,
fixed to the iniide edge various shapes and fried in butter, fixed to the inside
edge gf the gerving of the serving dish dish with with a a mixture mixture of of
flour flour and and egg egg whiie. white. Fancyjelly shapes can be similarly used
for cold diif,es, and Fancy jelly shapes can be similarly used for cold dishes, and
vegetable borders for hot dishes. vegetable borders for hot dishes. (border) Rfug
of Hatilles béatilles ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. BoRDURE BORDURE DE DE Ring
(border) of

Fluted plain and ring (Deiiilerin. moulds Fluted aod plain ring moulds
(Dehillerin.phot. Phot. Larousse\ Larousse)

r34 134
BORDER BORDER

(furo6s€) Piping a a border border of of duchess duchess potatoes (Larousse) Piping

(Ldrousre) potatoes (Larousse) Border of of duchess polatoes Border

BoRDURE DE Game forcemeat forcemeat ring with various various garnishes. BORDURE
(see Game forcemeat forceineat (see made of Game pur6es or salwith purées
FORCEMEATS). The rings are filled with FORCEMEATS). The rings are filled SAUCE).
picons game in White or Brown of game Brown sauce (see SAUCE). picons of poMMEs DE
DE TERRE Duchess TERRE Potato ring. ring. aonouRn BORDURE DE DE POMMES Potato -
Duchess potato mixture (see POTATOES) through a a forcingPOT A TOES) piped through
a ring. hand into a bag onto a buttered dish, or moulded by hand covered with Fill
the centre cooked fish covered Fill the centre with with slices slices of
cookedfish Mornay sauce; slices of various shellfish; hashes hashes of various etc.
in butter, butter, etc. kinds of meat; vegetables cooked in grated with grated
Brush the ring with sprinkle with egg, sprinkle with beaten beaten egg, Brush the
ring Pannesan, the grill. in the oven or under the the oyen and brown in Parmesan,
and DE RIZ RIZ -Riee garnishes. BORDURES BoRDURES DE variow garnishes. Rice ring
ring with with various prepared from rice pilaf, These from rice are usually
prepared These rings (borders) are and bound with egg. consomm6 and risotto, or
rice cooked in consommé it in in the oven Press the oYen mould and and set set it
into the the mould rice weil well into Press the the rice for a a few minutes. with
When turned out centre with dish, fiil fill the the centre a serving serving dish,
out onto onto a various ingredients, such as mixed ragoûts or brown brown ragottts
in white or sauce, etc. salpicons, etc. sauce, various salpicons, DE Semolina
garnishes. BORDURE BoRDURE DE various garnishes. with various ring with Semolina
ring in SEMOULE cooked in ring, using using semolina semolina cooked like Rice Rice
ring, sEMouLE -- Prepare like consommé egg. and bound with egg. consomm6 and
GIBIERS - These are FARCE DE GIBIERS

ring with with various various garnishes. forecemeat ring Veal or or chicken
chicken forecemeat Veal as Prepare as - Prepare biatilles d l'ancienne. recipe for
for Ring Ring of béa I'ancienne. the recipe tilles à indicated in the Fill the
centre with with a a a dish. dish. Fill the centre ring out out onto onto a Turn
the the ring Tum poulette, cocks' cocks' combs combs and and garnish: veal d la
veal amourettes amourettes à la poulette, gamish: veloati sauce, sauce, lambs'
chicken in in velouté lambs' of chicken it la la crème, uime, slices slices of
kidneys à poulette, veal veal or or chicken chickm hash hash à d ta la or calves'
calves' brains brains à d la la poulette, or sauce, white or or brown brown sauce,
mixed salpicons salpicons in in white crime, simple or mixed simple or crème, with
purte of velouti sauce, scntce, eggs eggs scrambled scrambled with in velouté of
chicken chickm in purée with butter or fresh vegetables vegetables dressed dressed
with butter or various ingredients, fresh with butter or vegetables blended blended
with butter or of vegetables macidaine of cream, macédoine cream, h la crime.
cream, mushrooms mushrooms à ln crème. cream,
DE VEAU, DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE DE FARCE FARCE DE vEAU, DE BoRDURE DE BORDURE

in aa border round aadish dish Fancyjelly arranged in border round shapes arranged
Pancy jelly shapes (Larousse) (Larousse)

D'ENTREITTs D'ENTRÉES, D'ENTRfEs, D'ENTREMETS

BoRDURES FROIDES FRoIDES or sweet sweet dishes. dishes. BORDURES rings for for
entrées entrees or Cold Cold rings made These borders borders are are usually
usually made - These jelly. Cold made can also also be be made borders can fruit
jelly. Cold entrée entrie borders of of aspic aspic or or fruit gras, ham, game,
chic mousses. chicken or fish fish mousses. ken or from from foie ham, game, foie
gras,

Ring (border) of la normande normande of sole sole àd la Ring (border)

Ring I-l oe SOLES A LA sorEs À BoRDURE DE· normande. BORDURE la normande. I la of

sole sole à Ring of (see FORCEFORCEa Cream Crearn fish Prepare a forcemeat (see fuh
forcemeat - Prepare MEAT), centre with with Fill the dish. Fiil the centre it out
out on on a a dish. and tum tum it bake and MEAT), bake a bound and mushrooms,
mushrooms, bound a ragoût ragof,rt of of mussels, shrimps and mussels, shrimps with
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Normande sauce with Normande Roll Place a a white
wine. wine. Place in white and cook cook in fillerc and Roll up up smail small sole
sole fillets poached, with fillet, coyer cover with each fillet, on each poached,
debearded oyster on debearded oyster normande . of truffie truffiewith thin thin
strips strips of decorate with sauce and and decorate normande sauce .' Garnish
(q.v.). in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). cooked in with crayfish crayfish
cooked Garnish with
NORMANDE NoRMANDE -

For D'ENrREtffirs -- For RINGS BoRDUREs D'ENTREMETS RINGS FOR FOR DESSERTS.
DESSERTS. BORDURES (see CREAMS, arc creams) are CREAMS, Custard Custard creams)
cold cold sweets, sweets, custards custards (see When turned turned made has been
been caramelised. caramelised. When made in in aa mould mould that that has pur6es
of fruit, etc. of fruit, etc. or purées macédoines or out, centre is out, the is
filled filled with withmacddoines the centre (see RICE) RICE) and and Rings Rings
can can be be made made of of Dessert Dessert rice rice (see (q.v.), and fruit or
any semolina filled with with macédoines macidoines of of fruit or any semolina
(q.v.), and filled other for aa hot hot sweet. other mixture mixture suitable
suitable for sweet. DE la vosgienne. vosgienne. BORDURE BoRDUREDE Custard ring with
with mirabeUes mirabelles à i la Custard ring MIRABELLES Prepare aa kirsch-
flavoured kirsch-flavoured MTRABELLES À A LA m VOSGIENNE vosctENNE -- Prepare (see
CREAMS). Custard Custard cream crearn (see CREAMS). Fill ring mould mould with with
the the cream, cream, and and Fill aa caramel-coated caramel-coated ring (q.v.).
Allow cook in aabain-marie Allow to cool completely completely before cook in bain-
marie (q.v.). to cool before tuming turning out. out.
135 135
BORIC BORIe
Cook the mirabelles in the mirabelles in syrup. syrup. Prepare Preparewhipped
whipped cream creamor or Cook (see CREAMS). Chantilly cream ueam (see CREAMS). Turn
Turn out out the the ring ring onto onto Chantilly adish, dish, and and fill fill
the the centre centrewith with well-drained well-drained mirabelles. mirabelles.
Top Top a with whipped whipped cream. cream. Serve Serve with with mirabelle
mirabelle sauce sauce laced laced with with with kirsch. kirsch. ring with with
cherries. Rioe ring cherries. BORDURE BoRDURE DE DERIZ Rtz AUX lux CERISES crnrsss
- - Fill Fill Riee a buttered buttered ring ring mould (se RICE). mould with with
Dessert Dessert rice rice(see RICE).Heat Heat a the mould mould for for aa few few
minutes minutes in in the the oven, oven, and and turn it out turn it out the onto
a a dish. dish. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with stoned stonedcherries
cherries which which have have outo been simmered simmered in in syrup syrup and
and combined combined with goosewith aa little little goosebeen jelly. berry jelly.
berry Rice ring ring à i la la créole. cr6ole" BORDURE BoRDURE DE DE RIZ Rtz À A LA
re cRÉOLE cnfor,e - Riee Butter a savarin ring a savarin mould and ring mould and
fill fill with with sweetened sweetened dessert dessert Butter rice. Turn Turn out,
out, and and fill fill the middle with the middle with half-slices half-slices of
pineof piuerice. apple which poached in which have have been been poached in
vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup. apple preserved cherries Decorate
with with preserved cherries and and angelica angelica lozenges. lozenges. Decorate
Heat in in the the oven, oven, and and serve with rum-flavoured serve with rum-
flavoured Apricot Apricot Heat (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce Rioe ring ring
Montmorency. Montmorency. BORDURE BoRDURE DE DE RIZ Rtz MONTMORENCYMoNTMoRENcy Riee
Fill a a buttered buttered ring ring mould mould with with sweetened sweetened
dessert dessert rice, rice, Fill pressing it it on on weil well to to ensure ensure
that that there there are are no no holes. holes. Cover, Cover, pressing cook in in
the and cook few minutes. the oven oven for for a a few minutes. Remove, Remove,
and and turn turn and onto a a dish. dish. onto Fill the middle with the middle
with stoned stoned cherries cherries which which have have been been Fill cooked in
in syrup syrup and and weil well drained, drained, altemating alternating them them
with with cooked layers of pastry cream (see CREAMS). of hot hot French pastry
crecnn (see CREAMS). Finish Finish layers with a layer of piling them a layer of
cherries, cherries, piling them slightly slightly into into a a dome dome with
shape. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with crushed crushed macaroons, macaroons, pour pour
on on sorne shape. some melted butter, g)aze in butter, and and glaze in a a very
very hot hot oven. oven. melted (see SAUCE) Serve with with Cherry Cherry sauce
sauce (see SAUCE) which which has has been Serve been laced with kirsch. Semolina
ring ring filled fined with with various various fruit. fruit. BORDURE ronounn DE
Semolina DE
sBMot LEGARNIE GARNIEDE DEFRUITS FRUTTS SEMOULE -

Fillaabuttered butteredring ringmould with mouldwith -FiU sweeteneddessert

dessertsemolina, pressingititweil semolina,pressing wellinto iniothe sweetened
themould. mould. Heat for foraafew fewmoments momentsin inaalow lowoven. Heat
oven., Turnonto onto aadish, dish,and andfill fillwith withfruit fruitcooked Turn
cookedin invanillavanillaflavoured syrup: syrup:halved halvedapricots, apricots,
sliced pineapple,cherries, flavoured slicedpineapple, cherries, pears, quartered
quartered apples, apples, etc. etc. pears, Heatin inthe theoven ovenfor foraafew
fewminutes, Heat minutes, and andwhen whenready readyto to pour over serve, pour
overititaafew fewtablespoons serve, tablespoons of ofliqueur-flavoured liqueur-
flavoured apricot sauCe, sau@, or orother otherfruit fruitsauce saucewhich goeswith
apricot whichgoes withthe thefilling. filling.
(Acid). BORIQUE BORIC (Acid). BoRIeTJB- -Sometimes preservative BOinC Sometimes
used usedas asaapreservative (seeBORAX). agent (see BORAX). ageht
SeeSOUPS. SOUPS. BORSCH-- See BORSCH

BOTER MELK MELKor BOTER (Beleisn cookery) BUTTERMILK(Belgiao or BUTTERMILK

cookery)- pearl barley Boil pearl barley in in buttermilk, Boil buttermilk,
sweetened sweetenidwith. with brown brown sugar, for for l! l{ to sugar, to22
hours. hours. Before Before serving, serving blend blendin inaalittle little
(cornstarch)diluted cornflour (comstarch) cornflour diluted in in cold cold water.
water.Treacle Treacle (molasses) is (molasses) issometimes sometimes added. added.
Vermicelli, rice, Vermicelli, rice,semolina, semolina" and and tapioca tapiocacan
canalso alsobe becooked cooked in buttermilk, buttermilk, with in withcurrants,
currants, sultanas sultanas and and cooked cookedapples apples added. added.
(Vicomte de) BOTHEREL BOTHEREL (Vicomte de) -- Famous Famous financier financier
who who was was in Dinan born born in Dinan in n 1784 1784 and and who whodied in
1859. diedthere there in 1859. His His name name deserves deserves to mentioned in
to be be mentioned in aadictionary dictionary of of cookery cookery for for it it
was was he he who, who, under under the the Restoration, REstoration, created
'omnibuscreated 'omnibusrestaurants' . restaurants'.
BOTTLE. BOTTLE. BOUTEILLE BourErLLE -- Oenology, Oenology, the science which the
science which deals deals wi th wine, tion to gives the with wine, gives the
following following defini definition to the the word word bottle: bottle: various
shapes ours according 'A glass phial phial of A glass ofvarious shapes and and col
colours according to to the the nature nature of of the the wine wine it it is is
intended intended to contain.' This means to contain.' This means

Botties: Bottles: 1. l. Double Double litre; litre: 2. Litre; 2.Litre'. 3. 3. Demi-

litre; Demi-litre; 4. 4. Bordeaux Bordeaux bottle; bottle; 5. 5. Fillette Fillette
d'Anjou; d'Anjou; 6. 6. Demi-Anjou; Demi-Anjou; 7. Anjou; 7. Anjou; 8. 8.
Mâconnaise; Miconnaise; 9. Champagne; 9. Champagre; 10. 10. Bourgogne; Bourgogne;
II. 11. Saint-Galmier; Saint-Galmier; 12. Fiasco Chianti; 12. Fiasco de de Chianti:
13. Flûte 13. Fl$te à i vin vin d'Alsace d'Alsace

136 136
BOUCHE BOUCHE DU DU ROI ROI
that Bordeaux Bordeaux wines wines should should not not be be bottled bottled in
in Burgundy Burgundy that wine bottles, bottles, and and vice vice versa' versa. No
No doubt doubt this this larv law can can be be wine is a a case case of of
ordinary ordinary table table wines; wines; in in fact, fact, digressed when when
it it is digressed most of of these these wines wines are are sold sold in in so-
called so-called Saint-Galmier Saint-Galmier most

of should should be be avoided, avoided, as as should should foods foods showing

showing signs signs of
fermentation fermentation (bubbles (bubbles of of gas, gas, bulging bulging lids).
lids). when BOUCANADE BOUCANADE - Spanish Spanish term term derived derived from
from times times when wine goatskin bottles. bottles. In In slang slang it it means
means wine was was placed placed in in goatskin quaffing quaffing straight straight
from from the the bottle. bottle.

bottles. The The practice practice of of serving serving very very old old wines
wines and and wines wines of of bottles. great growths growths out out of of wicker
wicker cradles cradles is is not not approved approved by by great gastronomes;
gastronomes; these these should should be be decanted decanted into into carafes
carafes for for serving. serving. Contents of of bottles bottles in in France
France - The The law law of of January January 1930, 1930, Contenb states: states:
Article l. 1. Under Under the the conditions conditions of of Article Article 2 2
given given below, below, it it Article is forbiddOn forbiddèn to to put put on on
sale sale or or to to sell sell wines wines other other than than is sparkling
wines, wines, wines wines imported imported in in bottles bottles and wines
ininsparkling for export, export, wines wines imported imported in in bottles
bottles and and wines wines tended for tended export, in in bottles bottles other
other than: than: intended for for export, intended 1. Bottles BottIes known known
as as bordelaise, bordelaise, bourguignonne bourguignonne andmdconand mâconl. type
and capacity capacity of which' which are indicated in in the naise, the type
naise, 3 June 1866, table appended appended in in the the law law passed passed on
I131866, concerning table trade usages; usages; trade 2. Bottles BottIes which
correspond to the following characteris2. tics: tics: (cl.) Capacity (cl.) Type 200
200 Double litre litre Double 100 Litre 50 Demi-litre 90 Sain t -Galmier Saint-
Galmier 75 Anjou 37'5 37·5 Demi-Anjou Demi-Anjou d'Anjou or Fillette d'Anjou 35
Fillette de Touraine Touraine 72 72 Rhine wine
receptacle a receptacle The of a is that that of above is indicated above The
capacity capacity indicated (59'F.). This This measured at neck rim at a l5oC.
(59°F.). of 15°C. a temperature of measuredit ca paci ty has 2 per cent. cent. of2
has a a tolerance tolerance of capacity the Article permitted to use bottles
bottles the to use not be be permitted will not 2. It Article 2. It will given in
in appearance description given the description answers the which answers of which
appearance of unless Article 1 legal capacity, capacity, unless minimum legal the
minimum not the I which have have not these capacity' indicating their their
capacity. label indicating a label bottles bear a these bottles preceding In with
the the preceding in accordance accordance with where, in In the case where, the
case to paragraph, a in addition addition to bear, in should bear, is used, used,
this this should label is a label indication of of the the indication capacity, the
minimum capacity, of the the minimum indication of the indication such where such
the wine, where in the the wine, contained in of a1cohol alcohol contained degree
of the degree indication is compulsory. compulsory. indication is not Article are
not in this decree are this decree laid down down in conditions laid 3. The The
conditions Article 3. applicable to: applicable to: publication 1. the publication
before the made before wines made Bottles containing wines l. Bottlescontaining of
bottles put into above-ementioned bottles into the the above-ementioned and put
decree and of this this decree before publication; the said said publication;
before the 2. cellarascarafes, carafes, cellarsuchas bottles, such than bottles,
other than 2. Receptacles Receptacles other jugs, for conconjugs, pitchers, are
served served for which wines wines are in which pitchers, etc., etc., in sumption
premises. on the the premises. sumption on

BOUCIIE BOUCHE DU DU ROI ROI - Term Tenn used used under un der the the old old
r6gime régime to to describe describe the the service service which which dealt
dealt with with the the kitchens kitchens of of the the kings,,at royal household.
These These services, services, under under certain certain kings, at royal
household. of whom times times employed employed over over 500 500 people people
(most (most of whom worked worked for for conexclusively conThey were only months
in in the the year). year). They were exclusively only six six months from the
distinct were and table king's cerned cerned with with the the king's table and
were distinct from the certain and certain officers and for the the officers common
common service, service, which which catered catered for
members members of of the the royal royal household. household. the food supplies,
supplies, the with food dealing with roi included &t roi Bouche Bouche du included
dealing pantler's The pantler's office. The butler's office. royal butler's and the
the royal pantler's pantler's office office and king's with the the king's
concerned with of everything charge of everything concemed omce nad office had
charge were There were table. There of the the table. and accessories accessories
of tableware, bread, bread, and of keeper of one keeper assistants, one four
assistants, of service, service, four heads of thirteen thirteen heads and several
several washer-up, and one washer-up, sommier, one one sommier, table-service, one
table-service, various of these these various charge of in charge officials in the
officials who assisted assisted the boys boys who posts. posts. with the the
concerned with mainly concemed was mainly office was The butler's butler's office
The heads ofthirteen consisted of and consisted king, and to the the king, served
to beverages served beverages thirteen heads directed who directed sommiers, who
fotn sommiers, and four five assistants assistants and of service, service, five of
whenever baggage whenever carrying baggage pack animaIs animals carrying of pack
convoys of the convoys the loaf a loaf carried a butler carried The butler war. The
was at at war. or was king travelled, travelled, or the king the two of water,
water, two bottles of two bottles wine, two of wine, bottles of two bottles bread,
two of bread, of Majesty's His Majesty's to His canteen' to king's canteen, for the
the king's ice for and sorne some ice napkins and an containd an canteen contained
The canteen morning. The every moming. early every clolet early closet require aa
king require the king should the beverages should of beverages stock of emergency
stock emergency were beverages were These beverages closet. These in rus his
closet. was in he was while he drink while drink office. royal butler's butler's
office. of the the royal an officer officer of first by by an tasted first tasted
master equerries, master included equerries, kitchens included royal kitchens for
the the royal The staff staff for The pastrysoup-cooks, pastryroasting, soup-cooks,
of roasting, in charge charge of cooks in cooks, cook s, cooks were who were errand
boys, boys, who galopins or kitchen errand or kitchen and three three galopins
cooks, and cooks, days. of those those days. kitchens of of the the kitchens commis
of the commis the armchairfuel-carriers, annchairwater-carriers, fuel-carriers,
also water-carriers, were also There were There and sert-d'eou,and of sert-d'eau,
valetsof heralds, valets sommiers, heralds, ushers, sommiers, carriers, ushers,
carriers, washers-up. four washers-up. four hadtheir their all had dauphine ail
thedauphine and the queen, the dauphin and the dauphin The queen, The toaa servants
to ofservants total of the total bringingthe services, bringing kitchen services,
separate kitchen separate were royal household householdwere of the theroyal
officials of The officiaIs great number. number. The very great very of reign of of
the thereign endof theend until the aristocracy until of the thearistocracy
membersof all members ail were bought bought royalservice service were the royal
for the suppliesfor XIV, and and supplies Louis XIV, Louis came whichcame lawswhich
fiscal laws severefiscal But the thesevere gentlemen. But by these these gentlemen.
by aristocrats andaristocrats prohibitivelyexpensive, expensive,and in made
madesupplies supplies prohibitively in the Instead,the office'Instead, positions of
ofhigh high office. these positions longer sought sought these nolonger no
paidaahigh high whopaid burghers, who richburghers, passed on onto torich were
passed duties were duties price to them. obtainthem. toobtain price

BOTULISM. by causedby infection caused Serious infection BoruL,IsME - - Serious

BOTLJLISM. BOTULISME anaerobic isClostridium Clostridium (the organism involved is
organisminvolved bacteria (the anaerobic bacteria botulinum) which develop
vegetables; fishor orvegetables; meat, fish incanned canned meat, develop in
botulinum)which both ptomaine from ptomaine It differs differsfrom canned. It
factorycanned. homeand and factory both home poisoning botulism bythe thebotulism
affected by substances affected poisoningin in that the substances that the
bacillus show food)show (ham, pork produce and cannedfood) pork produce othercanned
and other bacillus (ham, no dohave haveaa attimes theydo timesthey putrefaction,
although althoughat of putrefaction, no signs signs of peculiar peculiar sour
smell. soursmel!' To properly onlyproperly of botulism botulism only occurrenceof
the occurrence To avoid avoid the sterilised en aa even Vacuurn, ev used.Vacuum,
musthe beused. foodsmust cannedfoods sterilisedcanned perfect anaerobes guarantee,
because because anaerobes perfectone, notaasufficient sumcientguarantee, isnot
one,is develop pickledin in Foodpickled ofoxygen. oxygen'Food absence of inthe
theabsence evenin develop even chlorine percent ofsodium sodium centof least10
10per atleast should contain containat chlorine should chloride. pickling,its
content itsacetic aceticacid acidcontent If vinegar is isused usedfor forpickling,
chloride.Ifvinegar should 2 per percent. cent. bemore morethan than2 shouldbe Ali
rancidsmell smell havinga arancid foodsand andthose thosehaving canned foods
Allsuspect suspectcanned
137 137

roi du Bouche the Members Members ofof the Bouche du roi

BOUCHÉES

BOUCHEES
poissonsnourris Puis les nourrisassez assez loin de rade, Puis les poissons loin de
lalarade, Dans cranx desrécifs: rdcifs:lelebeau beau rouget,l'orade, Dans lelecreux
des rouget, 1'0 rade. pageldélicat, Lepagel delicat,leIesaint-pierre saint-
pierreodorant. odorant, Le Gibierde demer parle mersuivi suivipar le loupdévorant,
divorant, Gibier loup galinette,avec Enfin,la yeuxde avec ses dehogues, bogues,
Enfin, la galine/le, ses yeux Etd'autres. d'autres,oubliés parles oublidspar
lesichthyologues ichthyologues Et poissonsque Finspoissons queNeplune, Neptune, aux
auxfeux d'unciel cielardent, ardent, Fins feuxd'un Choisitàdla jamaisau
lafourchette etjamais autrident. trident. Choisit fourcherte et

BOUCI{EES - Name given to little patties made of puff BOUCHÉES Name given to little
patties made of puff pastry baked -blind (empty) and filled with various mixtures.
pastry baked blind (empty) and filled with various mixtures. It is said that these
bouchCes were invented by Marie It is said that these bouchées invented by Marie
Leczinska, who, being very fondwere of her food, .adored' the Leczinska, who, being
very fond of her food, 'adored' the vol-au-vent, and decided to eat it regularly.
So the small, vol-au-vent, and decided to eat il regularly. 50 the small,
individual vol-au-vent was created the 'bouchie ta reine,. was created - -the
'bouchée àdla reine'. individual Recipes vol-au-vent for the preparation of
puffpastry bouchies will be - Recipes for the preparation of puff pastry bouchées
will be found under HORS-D'(EUVRE. found under HORS-D'ŒUVRE. BOUDY - Good-looking
apples which are rather mediocre BOUDY Good-looking apples which are rather
mediocre in taste. They are used mainly for decorating fruit baskets, They are used
mainly for decorating fruit baskets, in taste. but they can also be cooked. but
they can also be cooked. BOUFFOIR - Bellows which butchers use to force air under
BOUFFOIR Bellows which butchers use to force air under the skin and into the
cellular tissues of carcases. the skin and into the cellular tissues of carcases.
from BOUGRAS (Périgord cookery) -- Soup prepared from leeks, onions and potatoes,
using waier in which 91bbage, leeks, cabbage, onions and potatoes, using water in
which black puddings were cooked for stock. This soup, much puddings were cooked
for stock. This soup, much black appreciated in Pdrigord, is made at Shrovetide,
when pigs appreciated in Périgord, is made at Shrovetide, when pigs are slaughtered
and the delicious p6rigord black puddinls the delicious Périgord black puddings are
are slaughtered made. Here and is the recipe: areBring made. Here is the recipe:
about 2 litres (3f pints, 4] pints) water to the boil Bring litres (3t pints, 4-i
pints) water to the boil put about and into it2 the sliced, blanched heart of a
curly green and put into it the blanched heart of a curly green cabbage, carrots,
sliced, turnips, leeks, celery and quartered cabbage, carrots, turnips, leeks,
celery and quartered olrions. Simmer slowly for 40 minutes. Add 2 large sliced
(Jnions. Simmer slowly for 40 Add 2 large sliced potatoes, and continue cooking
minutes. for a further 35 minutes. potatoes, cooking for a further 35 minutes.
Aboutand 15 continue minutes before serving, drain some of the About 15 minutes
before serving, drain some of the vegetables, cut into slices, and fry lightly.
Sprinkle with flour cut into slices, and fry lightly. Sprinkle with f10ur
vcgelables, and a little stock, and add to the soup. (This is calledfricassde and a
little stock, add to tbe soup. (This is calledfricassée in P6rigord andis and added
to most soups.) Bring to the boil and in Périgord is added to most soups.) Bring to
the boil and pour into a and tureen over thin slices of bread. pour into a tureen
over thin slices ofbread. speciality is is - This Mediterranean speciality
BOUILLABAISSE -prepared all along the south coast of Francs from Cap prepared ail
along the south coast of France from Cap Cebbre to Menton, each having its special
flavour ani Cebère to Menton, each having ilS special flavour and recipe.
Connoisseurs consider that only authentic recipe. Connoisseurs consider that the
the only authentic bouillabaisse is to be found in the region between Marseilles
bouillabaisse is to be found in the region between Marseilles and Toulon, though
the varieties at Nice and Menton and Toulon, though the varieties at Nice and
Menton come come a close second. a close second. Legend attributes the invention of
this dish to Venus, who, the invention ofthis dish to Venus, who, it Legend is
said,attributcs prepared it for her husband, Vulcan. Méry, it is said,gives
prepared it for her husband, Vulcan. M6ry, however, the credit to the abbess of a
Marseillis however, gives the credit to the abbess of a Marseilles convent:
convent: 'Pour le vendredi maigre,unjour, certaine abbesse 'Pour le vendredi
maigre. un jour. certaine abbesse D'un couvent marseillais cria Ia bouille-
abaisse., D'un couvent marseillais créa la bouille-abaisse.' 'f9r u Friday
abstinence meal, one day, a certain abbess 'For Friday abstinence meal, one day, a
certain abbess Of a a Marseilles nunnery created the Of a Marseilles nunnery
created the blouillabaisse., bouillabaisse.' He then goes on to say what a rcal
bouillabarse is like. and He then goes on to say what a reaJ bouillabaisse is Iike,
and what fish should go into the making of it: what fish should go into the making
of it:
Ecoutez bien ceci, vieux cuisiniers novices, Ecoutez bien ceci, vieux cuisiniers
novices, Qui faites des homards avec des icrevisses, Quifaites desqu'on homardç
avec des écrevisses, Et qui croyez peut, chez Potel ou Chabot, Et qui croyez plat
qu'on peut, chez Potel ou Chabot, Traduire grec mon en tranches de turbot. Traduire
mon plat grec en tranches de turbot. I'heure est enfin vmue oit notre capitale
L'heure est enfin venue où notre capitale joindre Pant d ses banquets Ia table
orientale, Peut joindre à ses banquets la table orientale, Et donner arx gourmands,
chez le restaurateur, El donner aux gourmands, chez le restauraleur, Un ragoitt
marseillais et non un plat mmteur.

BOUGRAS (P6rigord cookery)

Soup prepared

Hearken to to me, me,old oldcooks cooksand and new new Hearken All those those who
who make makelobsters lobstersout prawns outof ofprawns Ali potelor And think think
that thatone onecan, can,Chez Chez Potel orChabot, Chabot. And Translate my mydish
dish into into slices slicesof of turbot. turbot. Translate The hour hour has
hascome come at atlast, last, when whenour ourcapital capital Tbe Can add add
oriental oriental dishes dishes to to her her banquets banquets Can givethe And
give gourmands in the gourmands in aa restaurant restaurant And A real real
MarseiJles Marseilles ragoûl, ragofit, and and not not aa lying lying dish. dish. A

For this this Phocaean Phocaean dish, dish, accomplished accomplished without
without fault, fault, For Above al!, all, is is indispensable indispensable the the
rascasse, rascasse, Above 'Tis lrue, true, a a very very common common fish. fish.
'Tis Served on grill alone, on a a grill alone, il it does does not not find find
favour, favour, Served But in in a a bouillabaisse bouillabaisse it it does does
exude exude But A marvellous marvellous aroma aroma on on which which success
success depends. depends. A The rascasse rascasse feeds feeds in in crevasses,
crevasses, in quicksinds, in q The uicksands, In bays bays shaded shaded with with
laurel laurel and and myrtle myrtle bushes bushes ln Or around around rocks rocks
covered covered with with f10wering flowering thyme. thyme. Or
Then the the fish fish which which feed feed away away from from the the roads,
Then Among the the reefs: reefs: the the beauliful beautiful red red mullet mullet
and and orades, orades. Among The delicate delicate sea sea brearn, bream, the the
sweet-smelling sweet-smelling saint-pierre, The game escaping Sea game escaping
from from the the devouring devouring sea sei perch, Sea perch, And galinette, with
And finally, finally, the the galinette, with its its boops'eyes, boops' eyes, And
others, forgotten by the And others, forgotten by the ichthyologists,
ichthyologists, Fine fish, of a blazing sky, Fine fish, that that Neptune, Neptune,
in in the the fire of Spikes a fork, and never on a fork, and never on a trident.
Spikes on

BOUILLABAISSE
This Mediterranean

Un ragoût marseillais et non un plat menteur. ce plat phocien, accompli sans

difaut, À ce plat phocéen, accompli sans défaut, Indispensablement, mAme avant
tout, ilfaut lndüpensablement. avant tout, ilfaut La rascasse, poisson,même certes,
des plus vulgaires. La rascasse, poisson, des plus vulgaires. IsolC wr un gril, on
ne certes, I'estime guire, Isolé dans sur un gril, on ne l'estime guère, Mais la
bouillabaisse aussitbt il rdpand Mais {kms la bouillabaisse aussitôt il répand De
merveilleux parfums d'oil Ie succis ddpend. Derascasse, merveilleux parfums d'où le
succès dépend. La nouruie aux crevasses des syrtes, La rascasse, nourrie aux
crevasses des syrtes, Dans les golfes couverts de lauriers et de myrtes, Dans les
golfes couverts de lauriers et de myrtes, Ou devant un rocher garni de fleurs de
thym. Ou devant un rocher garni defleurs de thym.

which which brings soup nearer nearer to to the the chaudrde chaudrée (q.v.) (g.v.)
or the the cotriade cOlriade brings this this soup (q.v.). (g.v.). At At Sbte Sète
a a garlic-flavoured garlic-ftavoured fish fish soup soup is is made made which
which is is somewhat somewhal similar similar to 10 the the Flemish Flernish
waterzootje walerzoolje (q.v.). (q.v.). Ingredients The Provence Provence
botuillabaisse, bouillabaisse, Ingredients for for bouillabaisse bouillabaisse ..
The or, or, more more correctly, correctly, the the Marseilles Marseilles
bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse, is is made made of ofthe the following chapon, saint-
pierre, saint-pierre, conger conger eel, eel, following fish: fish: rascasse,
rascasse, chapon, lophius lophius (angler (angler fish), fish), red red mullet,
mullet, rouquier, rouquier, whiting, whiting, sei sea perch, perch, spiny crabs and
and other otbershellfish. sbellfish. (Many (Manyof ofthe the fish fish used used
spinylobster, lobster, crabs for bouillabaisse, such such as as the the traditional
traditional rascasse, rascasse, are are not not for bouillabadsse, found except
found except in in the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. These These are are
virtually virtually unknown unknown in in England England and and America America
but but gurnet, gurnet, mackerel, mackerd, small srnall turbot, turbot, fresh fresh
tunny, tunny, perch, perch, pike, pike, grayling, grayling, trout, trout,
eeleelpout poutand andvarious variousrock rockfish fish can canbe besubstituted
substitutedififnecessary.) necessary.) All should be becut eut into into uniform-
sized uniform-sized piecei. pieces. To To Ail these these fish lish should make
makeenough enoughbouillabaisse bouillabaissefor for 88to to l0 10persons personsyou
you will will need need about about33kg. kg.(6+lb.) (6i-lb.)fish fishand
andshellfish. shellfish. Put Put200 200g.Q g. (7 oz., oz., l| licups) cups)chopped
chopped onions, onions,33large largeseeded seeded and chopped and chopped tomatoes,
tomatoes, 44 pounded pounded garlic garlic cloves, c1oves, i a sprig sprig of of
fenne!and and33sprigs sprigsof ofbruised bruisedparsley, parsley,aasprig sprigof
ofthyme, thyme,aabay bay -fenlel leaf leafand and a a pieoe piece of ofdry dry
orange orange peel peel into into aa large-casserole. large casserole. Add Addthe
theshellfish, shellfish,then thenthe thefirm-fleshed firm-fleshedfish. fish.
Sprinkle Sprinklewith with22dl. dl.($ (tpint, pint,scant seantcup) cup)olive
oliveoil oiland andseason season with and freshly freshly ground groundpepper.
pepper. Add Add aagood goodpinch pinch of of with salt saltand powdered powdered
saffron saffron and and enough enough water water to to cover coyer the the fish
fish completely. cornpletely. Boil on,for for77to to88minutes. minutes.Then Thenadd
add Boilbriskly, briskly,with withaalid lidon, the thefish fishwith withdelicate
delicateflesh, flesh,such suchas aswhiting whitingand andred redmullet, mullet, and
time bouillabar'sse does andcook cooktogether. together.Total Totalcooking cooking
timeof of bouillabaisse does not exceed to minutes. not exceed14 14 to15 15
minutes.
138
to to bouillabaissq bouillabaisse, and and often often the the saffrori saffru<i is
is omitted, omittcd,

In ln some some regions, regions, notably notably in in Perpignan, Perpignan,

potatoes potatoes are are added added

138
BOUILLABAISSE BOUILLABAISSE

(Scarnati) bouillabaisse (Scarnali) for bouillabaisse lngredients for Ingredients

the with the and serve serve with of bread, bread, and over slices slices of the
soup soup over Strain Strain the chopped with chopped fish with and fish soup and
Sprinkle soup shellfish. Sprinkle and shellfish. fish and fish used is used
marette, is called marelle, special bread, bread, called parsley. In In Marseilles,
Marseilles, special parsley. purpose. for this this purpose. for points is is
essential points the essential of the one of good bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse, one
make good To To make soup in the the soup results in possible, which which results
quickly as as possible, it as as quickly to cook cook it to right consistency.
consistency. the right having having the to not to ought not bouillabaisse ought
dish, bouillabaisse a fisherman's fisherman's dish, Originally Originally a fish.
of fish. cuts of cheaper cuts the cheaper only the lobster, only contain contain
lobster, This bouillabouilla(Provengal cookery) cookery) -- This borgne (Provençal
Bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse borgne in Provence. Provence. is called called l'aigo-
sau-d'iou l'aigo'sau-d ion in baisse baisse is prepared as as fish stock stock
prepared in fish potatoes slowly slowly in Cook sliced sliced potatoes Cook
parisienne d la la parisienne Bouillabaisse à for Bouillabaisse recipe for
described in the the recipe described in poachfresh fresheggs, eggs, potatoesare
done, poach are done, (see below). the potatoes When the (see below). When them.
tobreak break them. not to careDot taking care stock, taking in the thestock, by
one, one,in one oneby and bread,and of bread, slicesof over slices tureenover into
aa tureen soupinto thesoup Pour Pour the dish. another dish. onanother poached eggs
eggson the poached potatoesand and the the potatoes arrange arrange the same atthe
thesame dishes at two dishes thetwo parsleyand andserve serve the with parsley
Sprinkle Sprinkle with time. time. as Preparedas MoRUE - - Prepared DEMORUE
BouILLABAIssE DE Cod bouillabaisse. BOUILLABAISSE Cod bouillabaisse. rather
(sebelow), isaastew stewrather thisis parisienne (see below),this Bouillabaisse
Bouillabaisse àhla laparisienne COD. preparation, see seeCOD. ofpreparation, method
of For method than soup.For thanaasoup. DEL'OCÉAN I'oc6AN BouILLABAISSE DE Ocean
bouillabaisse. BOUILLABAISSE Ocean bouillabaisse. Mediterranean essentially
aaMediterranean Although thebouillabaisse bouillabafsseisisessentially Althoughthe
coast' theAtlantic Atlantic coast. onthe madeon kindof bouillabaisse isismade dish,
ofbouillabaisse dish,aakind potatoes (generous 1Ilb.) lb.)potatoes g.(generous
500g. onions, choppedon Fry ions, 500 Fry55big bigchopped (jcup) cup)
in66tablespoons tablespoonsü leeksin choppedleeks and44chopped intoslices, cut
cutinto slices,and little (scantt * cup) Adda alittle cup)butter. butter.Add oil
and33tablespoons tablespoons (scant oiland garlic leaf,44c1oves, cloves,44garlic
bayleaf, fennel,a abay andfennel, savoryand thyme, thyme,savory
139 139

chopped tomatoes and a peeled and and chopped 4 peeled stalks, 4 2 celery celery
stalks, cloves, 2 cloves, tornatoes and a pinch of saffron. of saffron. pinch eel,
3 red mullets' I conger conger eel, 4 whitings, whitings, 1 slices 4 into slices
Cut into Cut 3 red mullets, lobsters or 2 2 small sardines, fresh a few mackerels.
3 3 mackerels, a few fresh sardines, 2 small lobsters or 2 into chunks' prawns, cut
Bay Dublin some and crabs, crabs, and sorne Dublin Bay prawns, cut into chunks. a
little cayenne pepper and add pepper and and a with salt, salt, pepper Season with
little cayenne pepper and add Season the fish. to cover cover the water to and
water wine and white wine dry white enough dry enough fish. generous quart) mussels
(lf pints, I litre cook Separately, Separately, cook 1 litre (lt pints, generous
quart) mussels and add the mussels, and shells and the shells discard the
done,discard when done, and, when and, add the mussels, and to the boil Bring to
fish'Bring in, to to the the fish. cooked in, were cooked they were liquor they the
liquor the the boil minutes. gently for for30 30minutes. andsirnrner simmer gently
and the fish and Strain the goldenbrown. brown' StraÏn until golden of bread bread
until Fry slices slices of Fry fish and the fish on a Arrangethe bread- Arrange
fried bread. thefried over the pour the liquor over the liquor pour fish on a soup.
as the time the same at and serve dishand serve at the same tirne as the soup.
separate separate dish -Bouillabaisse 150 g. (5 oz',, Fry briskly briskly150
parisienne - - Fry laparisienne Bouillabaisse ài la g. (5 oz., (3 oz-, * cup)
chopped' g. 75 and onion chopped lf cups) I-!- cups) chopped on ion and 75 g. (3
oz., t cup) chopped pint, I cup) oil, l+dl. dl.(t parts)in inI-t (usingonly white
parts) thewhite only the $ pint, leeks(using leeks tdl. cup) oil, (1 pint'
with66dl. Moisten with colour.Moisten tocolour. themto all,owing them without
allowing without (1 pint, generous (lf pints' 1 litre add andadd 1 litre (lt pints,
generous wine, and white wine, 2| cups) cups) white 21 peeled, seeded and chopped
stock44peeled, tothis thisstock quartf water. Addto water.Add quart) seeded and
chopped andaa thymeand ofthyme sprigof garliccl cloves, crushedgarlic tomatoes,
44crushed tomatoes, oves, aasprig pinch of goodpinch pepper and salt, with leaf.
Season bayleaf. Season with salt, pepper and aagood of bay heads and trimmings
anyheads stockany tothis thisstock Addto powdered saffron. saffron.Add powdered and
trimmings for 20 briskly for 20 Cookbriskly dish.Cook foranother anotherdish.
intendedfor n.nintended bffish of fine strainer. a pass through and minutes minutes
and pass through a fine strainer. weever, eel,weever, congereel, whiting,conger
gurnet,red redmullet, mullet,whiting, upgurnet, Cutup Cut deep flatin ina adeep
laythem themfiat andlay chunks,and intochunks, lobsterinto spinylobster andspiny
and salt withsalt top, seasonwith ontop, washed,on wellwashed, pan.Place
mussels,weil Placemussels, pan. season parsley and oil. withchopped choppedparsley
pepperand andsprinkle sprinklewith andpepper and and oil.
BOUILLANT BOUILLANT
Cookbriskly for15 brisklyfor 15minutes. minutes.Add Add33tablespoons (scant
tablespoons(seant! Cook cup)kneaded kneaded butter. butter. pourthe Arrange the
thefish fishin rnaatimbale (q.v.).Pour timbale(q.v.). thesoup soupinto into another
timbale timbaleover grilledslices overgril1ed slicesof ofbread. bread. another
Sardine booillaooisse bouillabaisse. BourLLABArssE DE DESARDINES SARDTNEs - _ Frv
Sardine ..BOUlLLABAlSSE choppedon onion and2leeks 2leeksin inoil. oil.Add
peeled,seeded Addaapeeled, seeded and 1Ichoppcd ion and chopped_tomato,
poundedgarlic garliccl cloves, bayleaf, leaf,JIsprig tomato, 22pounded oves, 1Ibay
sprig of fennel and andaasmall pieceof smallpiece oforange orange peel.Moisten
Moisten with *iti' pints, li pints) water. lt pints) water.Season Seasoi withsalt,
pepper and I litre (l$ pints, salt, pepper and a pinch of ofsaffron. saffron. Add
Add66sliced potatoes,and sliced potatoes, andcook cookwith the with the lidOn pan.
on the thepan. When the potatoes are nearly done,arrange (2+lb.) arrange 1 I kg.
kg.(2-1lb.) -When the potatoes are nearly done, cleaned, scaled scaled and and
washed washed fresh freshsardines sardines-on t[em,- and ani cJeaned, On them,

cook for for 88 minutes. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with parsley and with parsley
and serve serve cook separately. Strairi Strairi the the bouillabaisse
bouillabaisseover over slices slices of of bread laid bread laid in a deep dish.
Spinact bouillabaisse bouilta6giou (Provençal cookery). BOUILLABAISSE BourLLABArssE
@rovengalcookery). o'fprNARos -- Here Here is is aa recipe contributed contributed
by great by the the great D'ÉPINARDS master of Provengal CUISine, cuisine, J. B.
Reboul; Reboul: mas ter of 'Pick over over and wash (2| lb.) wash 1 I kg. kg. (2*
lb.) spinach, spinach, cook cook for for 5 'Pick 5 minutes in in boiling boiling
water, water, then then dip dip into into cold cold water water and and drain.
drain. minutes Press with with the the hands hands to to extract extract aIl all
waler, water, and and chop chop the the Press spinach. spinach. (3 tablespoons,
'Put -1 dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant I cup) cup) oil into an oil into ] dl. an
earthenearthen'Put ware casserole, casserole, add add a a chopped chopped onion,
previously fried onion, previously fried ware lightly without without browning,
browning, and and the the spinach. spinach. Cook Cook on on a a low low lightly
fire for for 5 5 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring al! all the the time. 6re
'When the the spinach is is searoo, seared, add add 5 5 sliced sliced waxy
potatoes. - 'When pepper and Season with with salt, pepper and a a little little
saffron. saffron. Moiiten with Season (l| pints, I litre litre (I~ pints, generous
generous quart) quart) boiling boiling water, water, add Z ! chopped garlic garlic
cloves cloves and and a a sprig sprig of of fennel, fennel, and and cook, covered
with with a a lid, lid, on on a a low low flame. When the the'potatoes are cooked,
poach poach 4 eggs in When potatoes are in the pan.'

BOUILLANT puff pastry pastry patty, Small pufr patty, filled with a BOUILLANT
fi.lled with - Smal1 (q.v.) of salpicon (q.v.) of chicken, chicken, served served
very hot hot as an horsa an salpicon (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, d'euvre. (See and
rissoles.) rissoles.) d'œuvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Small patties alUl
BOUILLE BOUILLE - Vessel Vesse) used used for for transporting transporting milk.

BOLILLETURE BOUlLLETURE a or BOUILLITURE BOUILLITURE (Anjou (Anjou cookery)

cookery) Matelote Malelote (q.v.), made made mainly of of eel, eel, moistened
moistencd with with red wine, wine, thickened with with kneaded butter, hutter,
garnished with wilh
mushrooms, mushrooms, little !iUle onions anions and and - a a local touch - with
prunes. prunes. This This rnatelorc male/Ole is is served served garnished
garnished with slices of of toast. toast.
turnips, turnips, leeks, parsnips,onion, onion,celery, garlic,c1oves.
celery,garlic, cloves. To Toclarify clarify bouillon, whisk750 (lf lb.) 750g. g.(li
lb.)lean leanmeat, meat,22leeks leeks cut cutup upinto intosmall smalldice,
dice,and andaafresh freshegg eggwhite whitein inaadeep pan. deeppan. (4|pints, Add
A.dd2t 2+litres litres(41 pints,5t pints)lukewann 5{pints) hk;warmbouillon.
bouillon. ConContinue tinueto towhisk whiskthe thecontents contents of ofthe the
panuntil untilititboils. boils.Lower Lowerthe the heat heatand andsimmer simmerfor
forI! lj hours. hours. Strain through through aaclotho cloth. Bouillon Bouillon de
(weddiry sonp) deDOce noce(wedding soup) (périgord cookery).-@6rigord cookery) Thi-
s This Périgord P€rigord clear clearsoup soup Îs is reallyaaversion version of
ofollapodrida oilapodrida (q.v.).Four (q.v.). . beef, Four kil1ds kinds of of meat
meatare are used: beef,aaveal vealknuckle, knuckle, aa sluffed stuffed chicken
chickenand andaaturkey. turkey. Ali All these these are arecooked cooked in instock
stock tlavoured flavoured with withvegetables, vegetables, together together with
withSwiss Swiss chard. chard. Add Add onion, onion, frie<.! fried in in lard lard
until until golden, and golden, andvermicelli. vermicelli. pnCÉRÉALES Cere al
bouillons. Cereal bouillons BOUILLONS BourLLoNs DE cfnf,c,rEs - - These These are
rich are rich in in assimilable assimilable minerai mineral substances substances
and and soluble soluble nutritive nutritive matter matter which, which, being
responsible for being responsible for giving vegetable vegetable embryo eqlbryo the
the nutriment nutriment necessary necessary for for growth, have a heneficial
beneficial effect effect on on growing children. children. Boil Boil 1 I
tablesl,oc,n tablespoon each of wheat, oats, barley,tye,maize maize and and bran
bran for for aa long long lime time in in 3 3litres litres (5f pints, 6| pints)
water water until until the the liquid liquid has has boiled boiled down down to I
liiri to llitre (ltpints, generous quart}. Strain, and and add add salt salt and
and sugar. euart): Sirain, Herb bouillon (stock). (stock). BOUILLON BourLLoN AUX
Arx HERBES rrERDEs -- Wash (l| oz.) 40 g. (Ii a0 g. oz.) fresh fresh sorrel (* oz.)
sorrel leaves, leaves, 20 g. (~ 20 g. oz.) fresh fresh lettuce lettuce leaves, (*
oz.) g. H leaves, !O l0 g. oz.) fresh fresh chervil chervil leaves leaves and and
cook cook in in 1 I litre litre (If, (1 ~ pints, generous quart) quart) water water
until until done. done. Add pinch of Add a a pinch of sea sea salt salt and 1 I
teaspoon fresh fresh butter. Cook little longer, Cook a a liule longer, and and
strain. strain. Vegetable Vegetable bouillon (stock). BOUILLON bouillon (stock).
BourLLoN DE or rEcururs Vegetarian Vegetarian cookery cookery books give many
recipes for these. books give Clea r vegetable vege ta ble so u ps can Îe ts, Clear
soups can be be used used in children,s d diets, partially replacing partially
replacing milk; milk; and and in in diets diets for for invalids. invalids. With
With tapioca tapioca or or vermicelli vermicelli added, added, these these soups
soups acquire acquire more more nutritive value. Dr. Leclerc gives a a vegetable
stock for children: Boil 50 g. _ (2 oz.) carrOIS, ffi g. !-IV,."",,",,.. .>, 15 g.
(* oz.\ turnipi, or) carrots, g.Q* oz.) potatoes, 9 6 g. g. Q Cl; oz.) dried peas
and and 6 e. g. G oz.) in 3 3 litres oz.) dried beans in lities (5| pints, 6| (st
6t pints) water in În a a covered covered stockpot sLOckpot for 4 hours. hours. for
4 Boil Boil down down to to I 1 litre litre (l| Oi pints, pints, generous quart)
and and add generous quart) add seant teaspoon salt. salt. scant teaspoon Rice
flour flom or other other cereals can cau be be added added to [0 this this stock.
stock, or or it it used as a basis for other other soups. soups. can be used

BOUILLON BOUILLON - Little restaurants restaurants which which serve serve meals
meals at at a a
fixed fixed price; price; the the menu menu is is usually usually limited. limÎted.

BOUILLI BOUILLI - Abbreviation Abbreviation of of boeuf boeuf bouilli, bouilli,

i.e. i.e. boiled boîled beef. becf.
For For recipes, recipes, see see BEEF, BEEF, Boited Boiled beef. beef.

BOUILLON AVEUGLE AVEUGLE - Colloquial Colloquial expression expression applied

applicd BOUILLON 10 mediocre mediocre clear c1ear soup when when small small spots
spots of of fat, fat, called eyes, to called eyes,

ments. ments.

Plain Plain white white stock stock serves serves as as a a basis basis for for all
aH soups, clear and thickened. thickened. It Tt is is also also used used for for
making making white white or or biown sauces. sauces. Stock Stock is is a a basic
basic liquid Iîquid obtained obtained by by prolonged prolonged boiling bailing of
ofmeat meat and and vegetables vegetabJes in in slightly slightly salted sa\ted
water. water. Bouillon Bouillon is is one one of of the the basic basÎc elements
elements of of French French cookery, both both in in home home kitchens kitchens
and and in in the the most most sumptuous sumptuous establisfie.~[.~nllsn Clear
Clear soup soup is is a a food food of of mediocre mediocre nutritive nutritive
value value (which (which

BOLILLON BOUlLLON - Stock Stock or or broth. broth.

cannot be he seen seen on on the the surface. surface. Many of of these these
soups, howhowcannot ever, have have the the spots spots of of fat fat carefully
skimmed skimmed off before before ever, serving. servrng.

object object of of clarifying bouillon bouillon is is to to make make ordinarv

ordinary bouillon bouillon more more limpid; limpid; it also improves the the
taste. taste. It It is Îs done done with with white white of of egg egg and and
lean lean beef and and vegetables vegetables cut CUl into into small sma!! dice.
diœ.Bauillon Bouillonclarified c1arified in inthis thisway wayis iscalled called
consommi. consommé. In Indomestic domestîccookery, cookery,stock stockis isserved
scrvedwithout wîthoutclarification. clarification. Served_ Servedas asaasoup
soupafter afteradding various garnishes (principally (prlncipally some ofpasta),
pas ta),ititis ismade with beef and andfowl, fowl, carrotj, carrots, sorneform form
of

can, can,however, howcver, be beincreased increased by bythe the addition addition

ofpasta ofpastaproducts, products, bread bread and and various various substances),
substances), but hut an an excellent.quickener' excellent 'quickener' of
ofdigestion, digestion, and and a a stimulant stimulant which which tones tones up
up the the heart hcart and and slightly SOUpS ind BROTHS.) slightlyraises raisesthe
theblood bloodpressure. pressure.(See (SeeSOUPSand BROTHS.) Clarificatim
Clarlflcatioo of of bouillon bouillon. coNsould CONSOMMÉ BLANc BLANC srMpLE SIMPLE
- The The

layers of offine coated with with butter butter cream. cream. fine sponge coated
term is is also applied applied to to an an iced iced sweet, sweet, rnade made of
ofbombe bombe The term ice-cream mixture mixture set set in in·a a round round
mould, mould, and and covere.d covered with with ice-cream whipped whipped cream
creambefore before serving serving(see (seeSNOWBALL). SNOWBALL).

BOULE BOULE-DE-NEIGE - Name Name given given to to edible edible agaric. agaric.
DE-NEIGE BOULE BOULE-DE-NEIGE (Pâtls...~rie) Cakes in the shape shape of of DE-
NEIGE (Pfltisserie) - Cakes in the balls, dipped dipped in in whipped cream. cream.
They They are are usually usually made made of of balls,

BOULEDE DESON SON('Bran Ball,) Bail')-- Slang Slangterm term used used to
todescribe describe BOULE ration bread, bread, called so so because because of of
the the relatively relatively high high proproration portion ofbran bran which
which went went into into its its preparation. preparation. portion of BOULETTE --
Dish Dish prepared prepared from from some sorne mixture mixture
(force(forceBOULETTE meat, hash hash or or pur6e) purée) which which is is given a
spherical form. form. meat, Boulettes Bouleues are are often onen made made from
from pieces of lefi-over meat or fish. They They are are dipped dipped in În egg
egg and breadcrumbs and and fried fried in În fish.

deepfat. fat.Or Orthey theyare arebrushed brushedwith withbutter butteror orlard

lardand andcooked cooked deep inthe theoven. oven. in
BOUQUET. BoueuEr BOUQUET DE DE vrN veN -- Wine Wine bouquet bouquet is is due due
to to BOUQUET.
140 140
BOWELS
ethers ethersand andessences essencesor oressential essentialoils, oils,which
whichare areextremely extremely release essences these ofevaporation process
InInthe volatile. volatile. the process of evaporation these essences release wine.
each toto pertaining aromas multiple aromas pertaining each wine. the multiple the
aa wine which elements The Thefour four eJements whichdetermine determinethe
thequality qualityof of wine are are the the colour, col our, the the bouquet,
bouquet, fruitiness fruitiness and and vinosity vinosity (the (the right in the
quality lies wine). the and flavour flavour andstrength strengtbof of the wine).Its
Its quality lies in the right these proportion proportionof of theseelements'
elements.
BOUQUET GARNI GARNI -- Aromatic Aromatic herbs herbs or orplants plants tied lied
totoBOUQUET gether-in gether inaalittle littlefaggot. faggot.The Theusual
usualherbs'are herbs ·areparsley, parsley,ttryp' thyme

BOWELS

it in sDoons (* cup) flour. When the paste is smooth, spread spaons (t cup) flour.
When the paste is smooth, spread it in u'u-utrctlf pii aitn, indent 7 or 8 holes
with a finger and-pu!1

a buttered pie dish, indent 7 or 8 holes a finger and 30 a forput oven a slow
inwilh of frish butter in each. Bake oiece Bake in a slow oyen for 30 piece of
fresh butter in each. serving' before minutes. Sprinkle with sugar minutes.
Sprinkle with sugar before serving.

BoURGEoIsE(ALA)_Namewhichisappliedtovarious BOURGEOISE (À LA) Name which is applied

to various

to large pieces of braised meat, preparcd d.la ai.n.i."ioly dishes, mainly ta large
pieces of always braised include meat, prepared à la a garnish dishes Tieie
iii'ui"osiotse. "of mode bourgeoise. These dishes always include a of garnish lean
geoise.)

carrots, small onions and large dice composed of carrots, small on ions and large
dice of lean "ompot"a (See GARNISHES; BEEF, Top rump d la bourbacon. bacon. (See
GARNISHES; BEEF, Top rump à la bourgeoise.) BOLTRGUEIL - Wine produced from the
Cabernet franc BOlTRGUEIL - Wine produced from the Cabernet franc gtup" fni"tnamed
'Bret6n' in the region)' It has a delicious grape (nicknamed 'Breton' in the
region). It has a delicious flavour and, generally speaking, is best d.*"\
i".pU"ity raspberry flavour and, generally speaking, is best drunk yo.rng. it is an
excellent accompaniment to the regional young. Il is an excellent accompaniment to
the regional dishes and to the goat cheeses. dishes and to the goat cheeses. Saint-
Nicolas-de-Borgueil' The neighboori-ng appellation, -similar '*in"t ofa
appellation, The neighbouring Saint-Nicolas-dc-Borgueil, but usually more
character' ptoA""". produces wines of a simiJar character, but usually more robust
and with a distinct tang. robust and witb a distinct tango (A LA) See the beginning
of the BOURGUIGNONNE BOURGUIGNONNE (À LA) - See the beginning of the article on
BURGUNDY. article on BURG UN DY. Type of long, handleless basket used to BOURRICIIE
BOURRICHE - Type of long, handleless basket used to transport fruit, game, oysters,
etc. transport fruit, game, oysters, etc. (Provengd cookerv) - ryt I tr:g'\zilb')
various BOURRIDE BOURRIDE (provençal cookery) - Put 1 kg. (2;} lb.) various water'
pints) a small fish in iarge pan with 2liires (3| pints-, 4f smaU fish in a large
pan with 2 litres (3i pints, 4t pints) water, chopped finely all - ano cloves
garlic 2 onions, 2 tomatbei, 2 2 onions, 2 tomatoes, 2 garlic cloves - ail finely
chopped - and a bouquit garni (q.v.). AOa a Httle bitter glang: neet, sgX191a
bouquet garni (q.v.). Add a little bitter orange peel, sailron' seasoning,
2iablJspooni (3tablespoons) olive oil and some ing,2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons)
olive oil and sorne sa/fron. goil fast minutes. foits Boil fast for 15 minutes. the
stock through a sieve, pressing the vegetablesStrain Strain the stock through a
sieve, pressing the vegetables Bind the stock iith 2 egg yolks mixed with ailloli
through. through. Bind the stock with 2 egg mixed with slices on ailloli tureen a
soup pour into yolks and lightly i;;.t."si--er (q.v.). Simmer lightly and pour into
a soup tureen on slices fish. the with Serve of bread. of bread. Serve with the
fish. (Wine) - Name given in the past to spiced wine' BOURRU BOURRU (Wine) Name
given in the past to spiced wine. u hogshead of the wine, it was prepared by
^mixing For a hogshead of the(lf wine, it generous was prepared by a very quart)
ofmixing pints, I litre with white winE white wine with 1 litre (Ji pints, generous
quart) of a very flowers' elder and wheat strong concoction of strong concoction of
wheat and eIder flowers. No-wadays new wine is often called vin bounu' Nowadays new
wine is often calied vin bourru.

and bay bayleaf, leaf,and and l[eir theirproportions proportionsare areadusted

adjusted according according ind

leaf leafmust must be he taken taken into into account account and and these Ihese
aromatics aromatics used used sparingly. Bouquets Bouquels garnis garnLç can can be
be small, small, medium medium or or large' large, sparingly. and rJi for certain
certain kinds kinds of of dishes dishes they Ihey can can include include basil,
basil, ""a celery, celery, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, burnet, bu met,
rosemary, rosemary, savory, savory, etc' etc. They are are removed removed from
from stews stews and and sauces sauces before before serving' serving. They

to to the the naturi nature of ofthe the dish' dish. The The strength strength of
ofthyme Ihyme and and bay bay

BOUQUETIDRE BOUQUETIÈRE (A (À LA) LA) - Garnish Garnish used used for for meat meat
dishes, dishes, compoled composed of of various variou~ vegetables vegetables
disposed disposed in in bouquets' bouquets. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)

BOURBONNAIS BOURBONNAIS - Bourbonnais, Bourbonnais, ancient ancient province

province of of France, France, forms forms the the whole whole of of the the
dCpartement département of of Allier Altier and and a a

and mineral and of minerai administration of geneialadministration 1605 aa general

in 1605 tp.t-uO. In spread. became Vichy and France, in created was waters
medicinal medicinal waters was created in France, and Vichy became 1648' in 1648.
itsheadquarters headquarters in ils seventhesevengrewduring during the water grew
Vichywater ofVichy pbpularityof Thepopularity The protecled its XIV protected Louis
XIV centuries. Louis eighieenthcenturies. andeighteenth teenthand teenth 1ts who
S6vign6, who deSévigné, Madame de ofMadame lettersof theletters fortune,lnd
earlyfortune. and the early riseto to itsrise completedilS 1677,completed and1677,
1676 n1676 curein foraacure th"r"for *"nt there went and hospital' Vichyhospital.
theVichy endowed the XVendowed LouisXV 1716 In17 success.In success. 16 Louis
undergone having undergone Victoire,having andVictoire, Adelaideand aunts,Adelaide
XVI'saunts, LouisXVl's Louis to replace establishment to newestablishment builta
anew treatment,built successful treatment, successful lMaison du Roi'. In 1853, the
replace mineral modest iir,existing modest 'Maison du Roi'. In 1853. the minerai
the "*irting company' grantedto to was concessionwas waters waters concession
granted aa company. stews; andSiews; matelotesand Freshwatermaleloles specialities-
Freshwater Qufinary Culinary specialities pies;sheeps' shee,ps' meat Moulinmeal
andMoulin Montlugonand pike irCie; pike àd lata crème; Montluçon pies; 't6ngues
locally; oyonnade goosestew called srew turnips;goose withturnips; called oyonnade
locally; longues with rather millias,rather ormil/ias, pie;mihior mihior potato
grattons;potato pompeaux aux pompe grallons; pie; or pantarts; cheny Languedoc;
made one the simitartoto similar the one made inin Languedoc; cherry tarts;
pangdteaux; pear locally;pear sauciaux called are which cakes cakes which are
called sal.lciaux locally; gâteaux; tarte and brioche; pie; Gannat potato of kind
gounerue, gounerre, aa kind of potata pie; Gannat brioche; and tarte

part of of Puy-de-D6me, Puy-de-Dôme, Creuse Creuse and and Cher' Cher. small part
small The The 'Bourbonnichons' 'Bourbon nichons' (i.e. (i.e. natives natives of of
the the district) district) are are generally generally hearty hearty eaters eaters
and and enjoy enjoy good good country country dishes' dishes. ftighest'quality
Highest quality beef, beef, mutton mutton and and por\ pork are are produced
produced here' here. Ttie The riven ri vers and ponds ponds abound abound in in
succulent succulent fish: 6sh: carp, carp, pike' pike, eel, cooked m en matelote
malelote (q.v') (q.v.) or or an au blar bleu (q'v')' (q.v.). eel, which wbich are
iooked game' good The streams streams are full full of of trout trout and and
crayfish' crayfish. Very Very good game, both ground and winged, and and excellent
excellent poultry, poultry, particularly particularly both The vegetable district.
The g*",-ut" geese, are also foundln found in this this district. vegetable gardens
gardens and fruit' choice vegetables produce choice orchards produce ind the
orchaids and vegetables and fruit. Beverages-ThewinesofBourbonnaishaveaninteresting
Beverllges - The wines of Bourbonnais have an interesting Saint-Pourgainof Saint-
Pourçainwines of ros6 wines and rosé red and white, red bouquet. The white,
bouquet.ihe V.D.Q.Sas V.D.Q.S. classified as are classified sur-Sioule sur-Sioule
are From famous' From are famous. Bourbonnais are of Bourbonnais waters of mineral
waters The minerai The watering-place' a famous famous watering-place. has been
been a Vichy has immemorial Vichy time immemorial time In Romans' In the Romans. to
the known to well known were weil waters were mineral waters hot minerai Its hot
Its which castellany, a of seat was.the Vichy Ages, the Middle the Middle Ages,
Vichy was the seat of a castellany, which -n nU Bourbon' of Bourbon. house of the
house I of of the Pierre 1 by Pierre acquired in J was acquired 344 by was
monastery a Celestine Celestine monastery founded a l41l founded in 1411 II, in
Louis Il, His son, son, Louis His its of its virtue of the virtue propagated the
who propagated monks, who is 10 these monks, it is to these and it and wars'
religious wars, The religious fame' The its fame. owes its partly owes Vichy partly
that Vichy waters, that waters, its arrested its great deal, deal, arrested
suffered aa great town su/fered this town which this from which from to began to
fame began its fame Henri IV ilS of Henri reign of the reign in the progress, but
but in progress,

F-

ry

the which for cheesecake country pleaiant iourbonnaise,a a bourbonnaise, pleasant

country cheesecake for which the with bowl cheese cream fresh Pound follows: is as
recipe recipc isas follows: Pound fresh cream cheese inin aa bowl with tableand
fresh butter cup) oz., eggs, fine'salt,4 g. g. (2Q oz., ct f cup) fresh butter and
44 tablefine salt, 4 eggs, 5050

Preparation BOUTARGUE BOUT ARGUE -- Preparation of dried, pressed -mullet mullet

roe Pj-o-v-e-$:' be bought ready-made' It is a speciality 9f It can be that boughl
ready-made. It is a speciality of Provençe. "t ""tt instructioni on how to make it
see HORS-D'(EUVRE' For For instructions on how to make it see HORS-D'ŒUVRE. title
in the olden days was BOUTEILLER (Charge de)-This BOUTEILLER (Charge de)This title
in the olden days was gin.n to the man in chirge of the wine cellar of the king' of
a given ta the man in charge of the wine cellar of the king, of a or some other
gieat aristocrat' At the court of the irince, or prince, sorne otherpoit great
aristocrat. At the of the high*anking by court always- held was the ii"gt-Lf France
the postword was al ways held by high-ranking kings of France in fact is which
bouteiller.Today the g""Ti.-.n. gentlemen. Today the bouteiller - which in fact is
(wine sommelier with synonymous .rr.d is word fiardly hardly ever used - is
synonymous with sommelier (wine "u", waiter). waiter). BOUTER French term for wine
that has turned sour' BOUTER - -French term for wine Ibat has turned sour. BOUT-
SAIGNEUX The neck of a calf or a sheep' BOUT -SAIGNEUX - -The neck of a calf or a
sheep. wotd bouvillon is applied to a young BOUVILLON Theword BOUVILLON -.-The
first bouvillon is applied to a young milk-tooth' steer until it loses its steer
until it loses ilS first milk-tooth. One of the greatest and most highly regarded
BOUZY One BOUZY of the greatest and most highly regarded vineyards of Champagne. ts
black Pinot grapes made into vineyards of Champagne. the Its best black Pinot
grapes made into red into Made Champagne. contribuieio wiire whiie white wine
contribute toathe best Champagne. Made intamuch red wine' fruity natural delicious,
gives wine, this grape wine, Ihis grape gives a delicious, natural fruit y wine,
much good esteerned by gourmets. It is best drunk young' !1!ln a esteemed by
gourmets. Il is best drunk young, but in a good year it maturls admirably; the wine
growers of Champagne year it matures admirably; the wine growers of Champagne
itaue.ome splendid bottles in their cellars' have sorne splendid boules in their
cellars. Intestines of slaughtered animals' BOWELS. BoYAux BOWELS. BOYAUX -
Intestines of slaughtered animaIs. (q'v') Pigs' intestines are mainly used for
making andauilles Pigs' intestines are mainly used for ma king andouilles (q.v.)
andouillettes (q.v.). The smallest ones are used as aid and andol.li/lelles (q.v.).
The smallesl ones are used as

of dried,

pressed

roe

141

l4l
BOWL ~OWL

Bowls Bowls (Nicolas) (ir'icolas)

casings for sausages. Fat intestines are used casings used in prepara_ in the
prepara_for tion of Lyons sausages. tion ofLyons Pigs'intestines Pigs' intestines
are divided divided into two categories: categories: the big and and the the small.
smal!. Before Before being being used used pigs, pigs' intestines intestines should
should be be prepared prepared and cleaned c\eaned with minute minute care. care.

was was customary customary for for two two people people to to eat eat out out of
of one one bowl. bowl. It It was was therefore therefore essential essential to to
have have washing washing arrangements arrangements for for the theguests guestsin
inthe theroom room where where the themeals meals were were served. served.

BOWL. BOwt. soIBOL - Term Term used used for for basins basins of ofvarying
capacity, made made varying capacity, porcelain, earthenware, of ofporcelain,
earthenware, glass glass or or metal. meta!. They They aie are sometimes sometimes
used used in in France France for for hot hot drinks (coffee, (coffee, chocolate or
tea tea with milk) at breakfast. breakfast. milk) served served at The 'punch bowf
bowl' is is applied applied to to a a bigger bigger receptacle receptacle The term
term 'punch usually usually made made of of silver, silver, in in which which punch
punch and and mulled mulled wine wine are are prepared. bol also also applies
applies to to china, china, glass glass prepared. In In French French the the word
word bol or or metal metal finge1 finger bowls bowls put put before before guests
guests after after serving servingfish, fish, or ofa a meal. meal. In In the the
past, past, porcelain, porcelain, pottery, pottery, silver sil ver or at at the the
end end of and and even ev en gold gold basins basins were were used used for for
this this pu.poie. purpose. Thby They were were sometimes be found found in in
antique antique sometimes set set in in stands, stands, which which can can still
still be shops. shops. It 1t must must be be remembered remem bered that that until
until the the middle middle of of ihe the sixteenth at table, table, and and that
that it it sixteenth century, century, forks forks were were not not used used at

BRABANQONNE BRABANÇONNE(A (ALA) LA)-- Garnish Garnishof ofchicory chicoryand and

potato potato croquettes croquettes for for large large pieces pieces of of meat.
meaL The The garnish garnish iJ is often often supplemented hopshoots shootscooked
cookedin inbutter butteror orcream. cream. supplementedby byhop BRAIN.
BRAIN.cERvELLE CERVELLE-- Culinary Culinaryterm termfor forthe thebrain brain
substance substance of ofedible edibleanimals. animaIs. The Thebrain brainis is
rich richin invitamins vitamins and and phos_ phos-

phorus, ofnourishment nourishment in in pro_ prophorus,and and provides

providesaagreat greatdeal deal of portion portion to its volume. to its volume.

Water 69·10 cent Water 69.10 per per cent Nitrogenous Nitrogenous substances
substances \3·26 13.26 percent percent Fatty Fatty substances substances 16·23
16.23 per per cent cent Extractive cent Extractive substances substances 0·12 per
cent 0.12 per Ash 0·19 per cent Ash 0.19 per cent It also tains phosphorated
lecithin It also con contains phosphorated fats fats similar similar to to the the
lecithin of egg yolk. yolk. of egg The weight of from 450 g. to 700 g. The weight
of an an ox ox brain brain varies varies from 450 g. to 700 g. (1 lb. lb. to to l*
It lb.); that of of a from 250 g. to 300 g. (1 lb.); that a calfs calfs brain brain
from 250-9. to 300;. (9 oz. oz. to to ll II oz.); oz.); that that of lamb's lamb's
or or sheep's brain about 100 g. (9 sheep's brain a-bout 100 i. ^of (4 oz.); the
the weight weight of of a pig's pig's brain is about 150 g. (5 oz.). (4 a brain is
about 150 g. (5 ozj. -o2.,): (The last is is rarely rarely used used in in
cooking.) cooking.) (The last Whatever the recipe, brains must be well purged and
Whatever the recipe, brains must be well purged and in a a court-bouillon court-
bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.). For the various methods of cooked in cooked For the
various meihods of preparation see OFF AL or VARIETY MEATS. preparation see OFFAL
or VARIETY MEATS. BRAISE. BRATSER BRAISER - To cook various foods by braising in a
BRAISE. cook various foods by braising in a - To special utensil utensil called
called a a daubiire daubière (q.v.), (q.v.), or a braising pan. special or a
braising p;. BRAISAGE Method which can be applied to BRAISING. BRAISING. BRATsAcE -
Method which can be applied to addiilg most food food substances, substances,
cooked cooked in an airtight pan, most pan.in an airtight very little little
liquid. liquid. Instructions Instructions relevant to braising addiire will he very
relevant to braiiing wifl bJ in the the section section entitled entitled CULINARY
METHODS. found in found CULINARY METHODS. BRAISING PAN. PAN. nnels$nr BRAISIÈRE -
Utensil made of tinned BRAISING made of tinned - Utensilcast-iron, copper, nickel,
nickel, aluminium, aluminium, enamelled earthencopper, enamelled cast_iron,
earthen_ ware and fireproof porcelain. ware and fireproof porcelain. In restaurant
restaurant terminology, tenninology, the word braisière is applied In the word
braisidre is applied to any any kind kind of ofaastock, stock, made out of various
meat trimmings to made out of various meat trimminss of basic sauces. This and
bones, used for the preparation and bones, used for the preparation of basic ThIs
stock is is used used instead instead of estouffade (q.v.) and sauces. c\ear beef
or stock of estouffade (q.v.) clear beef or vealstock, stock,which which should
properly be used and for the moistening veal should properly be used for the
moistening ofroux roux(q.v.), (q.v.),as as is white consommé. of is white consomm6.
142 142
BREAD BREAD
BREAD. BREAD. PAIN PAIN-- Dough Doughmade made of offlour flour and and water,
water, fermented fermented and and baked. baked. as a then meal, Cereals Cereals
were were first first used used in in the the form form of of meal, then as a
honey, oil, with flour or meal of mixture a from made cake cake made from a mixture
of me al or flour with honey, oil, sweet sweetwine, wine, various various grains,
grains, fruit fruit and and meat, meat. introduced The The Hebrews, Hebrews, the
the Egyptians Egyptians and and the the Chinese Chinese introduced without flat
fiat cakes cakes made made of of flour flour and and water water dough, dough,
baked baked without an no doubt bread, fermented of The leaven. discovery leaven.
The discovery of fermented bread, no doubt an used the accidental accidentai one,
one, is is attributed attributed to to the the Egyptians, Egyptians, who who used
the previous breadleaven of sour sour dough, dough, left left over over from from
the the previous breadleaven of flour and making, must of of grapes, grapes,
kneaded kneaded with with flour and making, and and the the must in the sun. dried
dried in the sun. quickly did not The The use use of of fermented fermented bread
bread spread spread quickly but but did not flat cakes, supersede supersede the the
old old method method of of making making unleavened unleavened fiat cakes, In the
middle thi Roman soldiers. soldiers. In the middle the only only bread bread known
known to to the the Roman these flat cakes were used trenchers, name of the under
ages, ages, under the name of trenchers, these flat cakes were used eaten instead
of plates plates for for cutting cutting up up meat; meat; they they were were then
then eaten instead of or or thrown thrown to to the the poor. poor. which must be
Making Making bread bread commercially commerciaUy - The The flour, fIour, which
must be goes through a milling, after days 15 kept for at least kept for at least
15 days after milling, goes through a it with yeast kneading operation, which which
consists consists of of mixing mixing it with yeast kneading operation, and and
moistening moistening it it with with water. water. (alcohol The The leaven,
leaven, which which gives gives the the dough dough the the ferments ferments
(alcohol for transforming necessary fungus) associated and barm barm and associated
fungus) necessary for transforming from a sugar sugar into into alcohol alcohol and
and carbon carbon dioxide, dioxide, is is taken taken from a yeasts. previous or is
is a a mixture mixture of of yeasts. previous kneading, kneading, or The flour is
Kneading Kneading with with yeast yeast is is the the usual usual method' method.
The flour is yeast put put in in a a bowl, bowl, a a well weil made made in in the
the centre, centre, yeast and and warm warm 4 or 5 water water added, added, and
and the the mixture mixture left left to to ferment ferment for for 4 or 5
'refreshed' It is hours, is then then 'refreshed' by by hours, to to form form the
the 'main 'main leaven'. leaven'. It 'first leaven'. the obtain flour to weight of
equal weight of flour to obtain the 'first leaven'. adding an adding an equal flour
is More More flour is added added later later to to obtain obtain the the 'second
'second leaven' leaven' or or of of the or a a third represents half tout point,
tout point, which which represents ha If or third of the batch batch of loaves.
10aves. is added, addedt flour is remaining flour the remaining kneading, the final
kneading, During the the final During water. This wann, salted salted water. with
warm, is moistened moistened with and the the dough dough is and This (kneading)
and is followed by contreand is is cali calledy'ase operation is operation ed jrase
(kneading) followed by contre(secnnd kneading), is very hard work when done which
is kneading), which frase (second very hard work when done lump, into one one lump,
dough into the dough moulding the by hand. hand. It It consists consists of of
moulding by stretching dividing, stretching it to to subside, subside, dividing,
leaving it it to rise, allowing allowing it to rise, leaving and all these
operations lot again again one lot and kneading kneading it it into into one - and
and ail these operations quickly. In In modern modern establishments establishments
they very quickly. have to be done done very to be have they kneaders. in
mechanical are done are done in mechanical kneaders. in a a left to stand it is is
completed, kneading is completed, it is left to stand in When the the kneading When
a cloth. with covered kneading trough kneading trough covered with a cloth. more
taste and has has more is whiter whiter and leaven is with leaven Bread kneadcd
kneaded with Bread taste yeast. with diluted diluted yeast. only with kneaded only
than bread bread kneaded than dioxide released carbon the ofleaven, the action
action of leaven, the released carbon dioxide Through the Through its original
original double its it reaches reaches double puffs up When it dough. When up the
the dough. puffs is sprinkled underside is loaves, the the underside into loaves,
is divided divided into it is volume, it sprinkled volume, ground maize finely
ground flour or or finely rice flour flour, with wholemeal wholemeal fi with our,
rice maize put in oven. in the (corn meal) the oyen. loaves put the loaves meal)
and and the (corn (425" and 220"and and 300°C. 300"C. (425° and to between between
220° is heated heated to The oyen oven is The the of whole surface the as to sear
way in a such 575"F.), 575°F.), in such a way as to sear the whole surface of the
ferment. to ferment. continues to interior continues the interior while the
immediately, while loaf immediately, loaf forms holes holes in the bread dough,
forms the dough, swells the Carbon dioxide dioxide swells Carbon in the bread the
inside temperature When the to bulge. bulge. When thesurface surface to and causes
causes the and inside temperature into (l40oF.), the is transformed transformed
into the starch starch is reaches 60°C. 60"C. (140°F.), reaches temperature the
temperature when the ceases when Fermentation ceases starch-paste. Fermentation
starch-paste. temperature (176"F.). When inside temperature the inside When the
goes up 80"C. (176°F.). up to to 80°C. goes (212"F.), the loses a large proportion
crustloses the crust 100'C.(212°F.), ieaches 100°C. reaches a large proportion
evaporation. byevaporation. of water water by of (which will have gone oven(which
theoyen of the temperature of thetemperature When the When will have gone putiuto
reaches 200'C. it) reaches into it) was being beingput the bread bread was while
the down while down 200°C. is then injected steam Water roasted. (400'F.) the
isroasted. Water steam is then starchis thestarch (400°F.) injected prevent
formation the toprevent the water) to withwater) (or the issprayed sprayed with
ovenis theoyen formation (or according to variesaccording time varies The baking
baking time crust.The thickaacrust. oftoo too thick of to loaves. ofthe thesize
sizeof the loaves. the r43 143

Braising Braisingpan pan (Dehillerin. (Dehillerin. Phot. Phol. Lnrousse\ Larousse)

BRAMBLE (Blackberry). (Blackberry). noNct RONCE

- Prickly Prickly bush bush whose whose be used used to to make make syrup and and
jam' jam. The The young young berries can can be berries shoots can be be eaten
like asparagus. asparagus. BRAN. SON - Outer casing casing of of the the grain,
grain, which which is is separated separated BRAN; soN from the the flour by
milling. BRANDADE - Method Method of of preparing preparing pounded pounded salt
salt cod, cod, which is is very very popular in in Languedoc and and Provence.
Provence. It It is is slowly flavoured flavoured with-garlic, with garlic, and and
is is prepared prepared by by cooking cooking slowly and stirring vigorously over
moderate lieat heat and vigorously and and constantly constantly same heat a wooden
spoon, maintaining the with a the same heat throughthroughCOD, oil, little
operation. Add out the operation. Add oil, little by by little. little. (See (See
COD, out the of salt cod.) Brandade of Brandade

(See SPIRITS.) SPIRITS') from wine. (See distilled from BRANDEVIN BRANDEVIN -
Spirit distilled countryside goes about the countryside about the who goes
BRANDEVINIER BRANDEVINIER - Man who fruit. or fruit. marc or wine, marc from wine,
his still still for distilling spirit from with rus

are cider are and cider beer and where beer Establishment where BRASSERIE -
Establishment in gteat many many in a great are a there are Breweries, of which
there sold. Breweries, or sold. made or in not established established in were not
regions, were in the eastern regions, Germany and in the of the middle of the
middle until the parts of France until of France and other other parts Paris and
Paris or caf6s or are cafés times are in modem modern times Brasseries in century.
Brasseries nineteenth century. served. are served. and drink drink are food and
where food restaurants where restaurants a meetingmeetingas a serve as to serve
used to of brasseries brasseries used types of Certain types Certain bohemians' and
bohemians. letters and of letters men of artists, men politicians, artists, place
for for politicians, place converted become converted either become have either
which have tlie brasseries brasseries which Among the Among are altogether, are
have disappeared disappeared altogether, or have else or something else into
something into Nadar, Pelloquet, Pelloquet, with Nadar, associated with Martyrs,
associated in rue rue des des Martyrs, those in those Baudelaire, I'Isle-Adam,
Baudelaire, de l'Isle-Adam, Villiers de d'Anglemont, Villiers Privat d'Anglemont,
Privat and Carjat. Carjat. Courbet and Courbet for a centre centre for was a time
was at one one time which at Pousset, which Brasserie Pousset, Brasserie of
journalists, became meeting-place of the meeting-place became the and journalists,
men and literary men literary brasseries famous brasseries Other famous officials.
Other colonial officiais. govetnment and and colonial government meet could meet
one could where one du Petit-Poucet, Petit-Poucet, where Brasserie du the Brasserie
were the were in Steinbach in Brasserie Steinbach and Brasserie Grenet-Dancourt;
and and Grenet-Dancourt; Ponchon and Ponchon for aa to calI call for used to Mor6as
used Jean Moréas where Jean Latin where the Quartier the Quartier Latin Mounet.
Paul Mounet. or Paul Maindron or Maurice Maindron chat with with Maurice chat in
Lipp, Lipp' today in in Paris Paris today survives in style survives The brasserie
brasserie style The Passage in the the Passage Flo in Brasserie Flo charming
Brasserie the charming and the Bofinger, and Bofinger, Petites-Ecuries. des
Petites-Ecuries. des

the bertholettia, bertholettia, of the Fruit of DUBRÉSIL sREstr- - Fruit NoD(DU

NUT.NOIX BRAZIL N1JT. BRAZIL to sometimes to Brazil, sometimes and Brazil, growsin
in Paraguay Paraguay and which grows tree which aa tree asAmerican American known
as alsoknown isalso The nut nutis (114 feet) inheight. height.The feet)in m.(114 35
35m. Portuguese calledlvia;the itisiscalled America it InSou South chestnut.In
chestnut. th America juvia; the Portuguese maranon. demaranon. itcastenas castenas
de callit cal1 hard; andhard; isbrown brown and edges, is sharpedges, threesharp
hasthree which has Itssheil, shell, which Its hazelnut' andhazelnut. coconutand
tococonut flavour to inflavour issimilar similar in kernel is whitekernel thewhite
the
BREAD BREAD
The total loss of water is proportional to the size of the The total loss of water
is proportional to the size of the loaf; to obtain 1000 g. (2.2tb.) bread, lt40 g.
(2.5 lb.) dough loaf; to obtain 1000 g. (2·2 lb.) bread, 1140 g. (2,5 lb.) dough
will be needed for loaves of 4 kg. (8.8 lb.) and 1670g. (3.71b.) will be needed for
loaves of 4 kg. (8,8 lb.) and 1670 g. (3,7 lb.) for loaves of I kg. (2'21b.). for
loaves of 1 kg. (2-2 lb.). If the fermentation of thedough doughisisexcessive,
excessive, carbon carbon If the fermentation of the dioxide is released before the
loaves are placed in the oven, dioxide is released before the loaves are placed in
the oven, and the bread will be heavy and compact, with a cavity and the bread will
be heavy and compact, witb a cavity
less watertban thanfresh fresh bread), but partialtransformation to transformation
less water bread), but to aa partial of starchinto intodextrine. dextrine. By
(which heatingstale stale bread causes ofstarch By heating bread (which causes itit
tolose lose per cent of itswater water content)a a distillationprocess processisis
to 33 per cent ofits content) distillation achieved; moisture moisturefrom
fromthecrust the crustpenetra penetrates thicrumb, crumb, achieved; tes the
givingit, it,for fora a shorttime, time,the the appearanceoffresb of freshbread.
bread. giving short appearance Varieties of. ofbread bread- - In InFrance,
France,ordinary ordinaryor orhousehold household Varieties bread(pain ordinaire,or
painde orpain deménage) minaie)islong is longand Qtainordinaire, and bread
cylindricalin inshape, shape,fiattened flattenedon onthe thetop, top,and andslashed
slashedwith with cylindrical slantingor parallelmarkings, orparallel markings,The
Theboulot boulotor orbouleau bouleau loafisthe slanting loafis the sameshape,
shape, but butBoured flouredon ontop. top.The Thepolka polkaloaf toafisislong
longor or same round, witb withaahard hardcrust, crust,slashed slashedwith
withlozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped round, decorations.A Asplit splitloaf joining two
loafis ismade madeby byjoining longloaves twolong loaves decorations. tqgether; it
itis isthicker thicker and andhas hasless lesscrust. crust.The Theround roundloaf
loafis isof of tQgether; thetradition traditional round shape, shape,the theupper
uppercrust crusthaving havingaadomed domed the al round top;the thecrown crownloaf,
loaf,as asits itsname nameimplies, implies,is iscircular circular in inform. form.
top; Fancyloaves, loaves,sold soldby pieceand bythe the piece andnot not by
byweight, weight,are Fancy are made out out of of highest qualityfiour highest
quality flour and andshaped shapedeither either into into made batons, with with
aagolden golden brown brown or orfioured floured surface, surfice,or orinto into
fiat batons, flat loaves or orsmall small rolls rollsof various shapes. ofvarious
shapes. loaves T.he Vienna Vienna loaf loaf is is kneaded kneaded with with
aacertain quantity of certain quantity The of milk. The The tin tin or pan loaf, or
pan loaf,square-shaped square-shaped with with at very lr.ry thin milk. thin crust,
is is used used in in France France mainly mainly for for toast, toast,canapés,
canapis, garnish girnish crust, crottons and and sandwiches. sandwiches. croûtons
On the the borderline borderline between between the the domains domains of of
bakery bakery and On and pastry-making we we have have brioche brioche dougb dough
loaves loaves and puffpastry and puff pastry-making pastry croissants. crû issan
ts. Bread containing containing sorne some or or all all of of the the bran germ of
bran and and genn Bread of the the grain and and endospenn endosperm is is
theoretically theoretically more more nutritive, nuiritive, but grain but being
less less easily easily assimilated assimilated by by the the intestines,
intestines, the the advantages being advantages are rather rather problematical.
problematical. are Wholemeal bread bread is is made made from from meal meal
containing containing the Wholemeal the the entire entire wheat wheat grain. grain.
In In sorne some parts parts of of Germany the Germany very very dark dark
(pumpernickel) is bread (pumpernickel) is made made of of coarse coarse unbolted
unbolted rye. bread rve.

between the crumb and the crust. between the crumb and the crust. Alcohol, which
forms during fermentation, evaporates Alcobol, which forms during fermentation,
evaporates during baking as well as carbon dioxide, which continues during baking
as weil as carbon dioxide, which continues to be released during cooling. A
condensation of steam to be released during cooling. A condensation of steam takes
place during this cooling-off period in newly baked takes place during this
cooling-off period in newly baked bread, which then begins to look greasy and
shiny. bread, which then begins to look greasy and shiny. of bread - A good quality
loaf should have a Qualitiesof QuaIities bread - A good quality loaf should have a
pale yellow or light brown bottom crust and a golden yellow pale yellow or light
brown bottom crust and a golden yellow or light brown top crust, which should be
thick, domed, and or light brown top crust, which should be thick, domed, and
resonant when tapped. Both the crusts should adhere to the resonant when tapped.
Both the crusts should adhere to the and together equal one-fifth of the weight of
the 9rupb, and crumb, together equal one-fifth of the weight of the loaf (the
thicker the crust, the less water there is in a loafl. loaf (the thicker the crust,
the water there is in a loaf). If the crusts ofa slice of bread less are pressed
together the slice If the crusts of a slice of bread are pressed together the slice
should quickly regain its original shape. should quickly regain its original shape.
The crumb should be homogenous, without any white or The crumb should be
homogenous, without any white or yellowish lumps, without grey, red or black spots;
it should yellowish lumps, without grey, red black spots; it should not stick to
the fingers; the holesor in it should be uneven, uneven, not stick to the fingers;
tbe boles in it should be not too big (which is a sign of badly kneaded dough), nor
not too big (which is a sign of badly kneaded dougb), nor (which too small is a
sign of insufficient fermentation); the too small (which is a sign of insufficient
fermentation); the smell should be sweet, the taste clean and pleasant. taste clean
and pleasant. smell sbould be sweet, the Too white a crumb is a sign of rice flour
having been Too white a crumb is a sign of rice Bour having been added; greyish-
brown crumb shows that rye or bucliwheat added; greyish-brown crumb shows that rye
or buckwheat

If kept for a long long time, time, bread bread becomes becomes stale, stale, the
the crumb crumb If kept for a dries up and the crust grows soft. This is not due
solely to dries up and the crust grows soft. This is not due solely to the loss of
water (stale bread contains only about I per ient the loss of water (stale bread
con tains only about 1 per cent

flour has been added. Bour bas been added.

i
&

Bread (Nrcolas) wedges Bread wedges (Nicolas)

t44 144
BREAD BREAD

Unleavened bread bread ((Larousse) Iar ousse'l Unleavened

bread ordinary bread French ordinary Eight varieties of French (Maison Syda.
Larousse) Phot. Larousse) Syda. Phol. (Maison

Wheaten flour is used for fine bread, bread, but in many countries Wheaten bread
made rye is is the principal bread bread grain. Barley bread, bread, bread rye and
made and be made from a barley and to be used to and wheat, used a mixture of
barley as can can be be very coarse, as was very time, but it was fresh for a a
long time, kept fresh 'as coarse as judged from the as barley bread', because
saying'as the saying i t is d ifficu 1 t to h ull barley. hull difrcult it has a a
whole rye, rye, has Rye bolted whole cent bolted 15 per cent of 15 made of bread,
made Rye bread, of rye rye heavy, compact texture; bread made out a mixture mixture
of of a out of is well and and is and wheat (one part rye to three parts wheat)
keeps weil sold ty bread. quality as quali sold as gluten Gluten has gluten
diabetics, has for diabetics, manufactured .for Gluten bread, bread, manufactured
210 per added per cent starch' cent starch. to 40 up to it containS contains up
added to the dough; it Unleavened bread, ordinary bread, than ordinary used than
less used is much much less bread is Unleavened bread though it is is served served
example, it for example, Sweden for countries, Sweden in sorne some countries,
though in with w]rth hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Adulteration is to to prevalent
method method is most prevalent The most bread -- The of bread Adulteration of
possible, retain as possible, bread as the bread in the water in proportion of of
water great a a proportion as great retain as but use the use practices, involving
involving the fraudulent practices, are other other fraudulent there are but there
'imof va-rious 'imadding various and adding gluten content, content, and poor in
grain poor in gluten of grain proving thus flour, thus products -- to to the the
flour, chemical products proving agents' agents' -- chemical rendering process,
condemned condemned This process, easier. This bread-making easier. iendering
bread-making by disthe dislittle to to the not aa !ittle contributed not has
contributed nutritionists, has all nutritionists, by aIl favour dieticians. held by
by dieticians. is held in which which bread bread is favour in Digestibility and is
used, used, and which is food which is a a food Bread is of bread bread -- Bread
Digestibility of abused, For France. For in France. especially in any other, other,
especiaUy than any more than abused, more many, and are taugbt taught -- and
childrenare which children food, which it is is the staple food, the staple many,
it forced the circles the in many many circles food; in other food; all other with
ail eat with to eat forced -- to quantity all ofaIl thatof volume that in volume
exceeds in consumed exceeds quantity of of bread bread consumed other put together.
together. foods put other foods Good excellent quantities is isan anexcellent in
moderate moderate quantities bread taken taken in Good bread food, quantities'
inexcessive excessive quantities. consumed in not be beconsumed it should should
not food, but but it The because both because crumb, both the crumb, than the
digestible tban is more more digestible The crust crust is being andbecause because
greater care, care,and withgreater chewedwith to be bechewed it has has to hardit
being hard one is bread is toasted bread reason' toasted same reason, thesame it.
For For the less of of it. eatsless one eats better us be tochew chew itit forcedto
beforced will th thus whowill for dyspeptics, dyspeptics, who better for more
toover-eat. over-eat. lesstempted tempted to will be beless andwill more tboroughly
thoroughly and The the andthe crustand thecrust ofthe composition of thecomposition
in the difference in The difference crumb content. greaterwater watercontent.
latter's greater inthe thelatter's liesmainly mainlyin crumb lies There worst
theworst bread,the prejudicesconcerning concerning bread, arevarious various
prejudices Thereare being been This,having having been bread.This, forwhite
whitebread. preference for thepreference being the reserved always goneby,
wasalways by,was intimes timesgone classes in richerclasses for the thericher
reserved for coveted theuse use them,the Tosatisfy satisfythem, classes.To
favouredclasses. lessfavoured bythe theless coveted by 145 145

manufor the the manuto for resorted 10 flour was was resorted extracted flour
higher extracted of higber of for the the flour for artificially-bleached Bour and
artiticiaIly-bleached 'rich' bread bread and facture of of 'rich' facture other
kinds. kinds. other so bread, so white bread, excessively white principal drawback
of excessively drawback of The principal The if practically uneatable uneatable if
is practically it is present, is is tbat that it popular at at present, popular its
dietetic dietetic Besides, its hours. Besides, a few few hours. than a for more
more than stored for stored people to people it is is harmful harmful to and
undoubtedly undoubtedly it qualities are nil and are nïl qualities digestions.
delicate digestions. with delicate with with made with bread made or dietary
dietary bread natural or is natural there is Fortunately there Fortunately means
fire by which means by which a wood wood tire over a yeast and stone over on stone
and baked baked on yeast retained. is retained. food is goodness of staple food of
this this staple the goodness the
p.cIN EN nN DIÉTÉTIQUEodrfrIQus IN DIETETICS. DIETETICS. PAlN BREAD IN BREAD
inagreement agreement wholly in not whoIly are not Dieticians are bread --
Dieticians Wholemeal bread Wbolemeal they but they bread, but wholemeal bread, of
wholemeal value of nutritive value the nutritive concerning the concerning present
atpresent bread at the white white bread that the in recognising recognising that
are unanimous unanimous in are it was when food it waswhen idealfood the ideal no
longer longer the is no sale commercially commercially is on on sale (and not
rollers), not by by rollers), stone-ground (and flours stone-ground wheat flours
with wheat made made with (and not withcbemical chemical not with leavenings (and
prepared with natural leavenings with natural prepared (notan an oil-fired oil-
fired oven(not wood-fired oyen in aa wood-tired and cooked cooked in ones), ones),
and one). one). ideal isstill stillthis thisideal hand,is other hand, theother on
the bread,on Wholemeal Wholemeal bread, wholeisreally really wholethatititis ensure
that mustensure consumer must food. But But the theconsumer food. mixed flour mixed
ordinaryBour withordinary madewith not bread breadmade and not meal meal bread
bread and orsorne some wheatgennor 'enriched'with evenbread bread 'enriched' oreven
with with wheatgerm with bran, bran, or ingredient. such such ingredient. pure
wheat wheat withpure madewith properbread is that thatmade breadis The The only
only proper percent, cent, 95per percent and95 centand (between90 90per
preferablybolted bolted(between Bour, flour,preferably on bakedon yeastand andbaked
naturalyeast with natural percent), leavenedwith at besi80 80per cent),leavened
atbest woodtire. fire. stone stoneover overaawood tolerate systemstolerate
ordigestive digestivesystems notaIl allstomachs stomachsor However, not However,
Itisisimportant important maybe. be.It thoughititmay excellent though wholemeal
wholemealbread, bread, excellent forthe the morefor doesmore breaddoes
wholemealbread to notethat thatsince sincewholemeal to note rationcan can
dailyration theusual usualdaily bread, the ordinary bread, organism thanordinary
organism than wholemealbread bread more.Also Alsothat thatwholemeal ormore. thirdor
be uced by reduced byaathird trered or dishes, highlyspiced spiceddishes,
meats,highly govery wellwith withmeats, does or notgo veryweil doesnot a1coholic
alcoholicbeverages. beverages. anda a breadand wholemealbread According
dieticians,wholemeal tothe thedieticians, Accordingto ideal. the tbe ideal.
basically dietisis vegetarian diet basicallyvegetarian

We BREAD- - We GOODBREAD METHODS MAKINGGOOD FORMAKING METHODSFOR recipes.

Edlinrecipes. give, Edlin three quotingfrom give,quoting fromCarême, Car0me, three
gastronomicallywiththeir theirgastronomically'Cooks,' writes, with 'whotravel
travel writes,'who 'Cooks,' he he
BREADCRUMBS BREADCRUMBS
minded masters can, from now on, by following this method, mÎnded masters can, from
now on, by following this method, procure fresh bread every day.' procure fresh
bread every day.' Ordinary method. MÉTHODE mirnoon ORDINAIRE (5 lb., oRDTNATRE - -
'Put Z*kg. 'put2! lb., Ordinsry methoo. kg. (5
Gonesse, having having been questioned juridically on the reasons beanquestioned
Gonesse, for the the superior quality of superior quality of their their bread,
attributed it to the for water they they used preparation. used in inits its
preparation. water Plaitd bread. bread"NATTE NArrE - - Bread Bread baked baked in
inthe plait. the form formof ofaaplait. PhLiied pArN POUR pouR POTAGES porAGEs -
This Breadfor for soops. soups.PAIN bread, which which Bread - This bread, is made
made in in the the shape of of aa long long thin roll and thin roll and is is sold
sold only only in in is big Paris Paris bakeries, prepared of bakeries, is prepared
of dough dough very very rich gluten. rich in in gluten. big These rolls rolls are
are cut cut into into thîn thin slices slices and and dried dried in in the the
oyen, oveno Or or These theycan can be becut cut and and hollowed hollowed out (See
out in in various variousshapes. shapes. (See they cRoorEs.) CROÛTES.) pArN AZYME
Unleavened bread. bread" PAIN AzyME -- Tbe The Book Book of of Exodus Exodus
Unleovened tells us us that that in in lheir their haste haste to to leave leave
Egypt Egypt the the Jews Jews forgot forgot 10 to tells yeast with bring yeast with
them, them, and and that that for for aa long long time time aCter after that that
they had to to eat eat unleavened unleavened bread. bread. The Israelites
Israelites perpetuated the the memory memory of privation of thls this nn'V<lr'AM
by eating eating only only unleavened bread bread during during Pesach. This This
is is by how this this bread bread is is made: made: how Knead sorne some sieved
sieved wheaten wheaten flour flour with with salt salt and and water water Knead
into a a slightly softish softish paste. Roll Roll out out into into round round or
or square into pieces 1 I cm. inch) thick. Prick cm. $ inch) Prick themall them all
over over and and bake in pieces a low low oyen. oven. a pArN AZYME, Unleavened or
or offering bread. bread" PAIN AzyMr, À A HOSTm uosrn -Unleavened Strain the the
flour flour through a a silk silk sieve. sieve. Oilute Dilute with with enough
enough Slrarn slightly salted salted water water to to obtain a paste, as a softîsh
softish paste, as for for wafers, called oublies. oublies. Pour into into special
special moderately hot hot iron iron moulds in in su such a Pour ch a way as iN 10
paste without allowing to dry the the pasle allowing it it to colom. colour. Leave
Leave way to dry dry on on wicker trays in in the the oyen. plae in oven. Store
Store in in a a dry dry place in to with well-fiuing well-fitting lids. wooden
boxes boxes with pArN VIENNOIS Viennese bread. bread. PAIN vrENNon bread was
Viennese Viennese bread - Viennese brought to Paris in 1840 1840 by Count Zang,
First Secretary of of brought ta Paris in parisian the Austrian Austrian Embassy,
who who founded the the first first Parisian the bakery, in rue methods. Zang Zang
bakery, in rue Richelieu, using using Viennese Vîennese methods. made such a a
success of the venture that made such success of the venture that he he became
bec.:ame over confident, enlarged the confident, the bakery bakery beyond beyond
his his means, means, and ruined himself ruined himself installing equipment.
equjpment. He He was was obliged to leave leave Paris Paris following following the
the events of of 1848, 1848, but his Viennese bread bread remained. remained.
BREADCRUMBS. or d chapelure CHAPELUREThe French French w word chapelure
BREADCRUMBS. cHAIELUR.E - The comes COrnes ftom from chapeler, chapeler. which
meant to crush bread that had had been been dried dried very slowly in in the the
oven. oven. White White breadcrumbs are obtained obtained by sieving stale white
white bread bread through through a a metal sieve sieve with with a fairly fairly
large large mesh, and are used used for for crumbing crumbing objects destined
desüned for frying. Loaf Loaf bread, bread, called called 'English bread' bread' in
in France, is is generally generally used used for this this pulpose. When French
French bread bread is is used, used, the the operation is is easier easier if,
after the of the the crust, cruSl, the the bread is is rolled roUed in in a a the
removal removal of lightly lightly floured ftoured cloth. cio th. Then Then this
lhis bread bread passes passes much much more more easily easîly through through
the the meshes rneshes of of a a sieve. sieve. White White breadcrumbs breadcrumbs
can can be he kept kept for for two two or or three three days. days. If If one one
takes takes the the precaution precaution of of drying dryîng the the breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs gently gently above above the the stove, stove, without wilhout
allowing allowing them them to to brown, brown, they they keep keep much much
longer. longer. Golden Golden breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are are prepared by drying
bread crusts crusts in in a a very very slow slow oven. oven. Once Once dry and
slightly coloured, these these crusts crusts are are pounded pounded in in a a
mortar mortar (or (or crushed with with a a rolling-pin) rolling-pin) and and
passed passed through through a a wire-mesh wire-mesh sieve. sieve. This This type
type of of breadcrumb breadcrumb will will keep keep indefinitely indefinitely in
in a a covered covered glass glass jir jar in În a a dry dry atmosphere. Golden
Golden breadcrumbs (if (if white white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are are not nol
available) available) can can be heused used for for coating coatingmeat meatand
and fish fish with withegg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs before before
frying, frying, but but they they are are mainly mainly used used for for
sprinkling sprînkling over over preparations preparations which which are are
cookod cooked an augratin. gratin. BREADCRUMB BREADCRUMB (To). (To). pawrn PANER -
To Ta coat coat an an object abject with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs before before
frying frying it itin in clarified clarifie<! butter. bUller. Coat Coat with with
butter butter and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. p.lrvm. PANER AU AU BEuRRE BEURRE
To To brush brush various various meats, meats, before before grilling grilling
them, them, with with plenty plenty

'After having left left the the dough dough in in this this condition condition for
for an an hour hour 'After or two, two, knead it aga again, then coyer cover and
and leave leave for for another another or in, then 2 hours. 2 hours. 'Divide the
the dough dough into parts and into 8 8 equa\ equal parts and shape shape inlo into
loaves. loaves. 'Divide Put them them in in a a hot quickly as hot oven oven as
possible. When as quickly as possible. When baked, baked, Put rub the crust with a
little butter, to make it golden.' rub the crust with a little butter, to make it
golden.'.put French rolled loaf. pArN FRAN9ATs EN RouLEAu 2t kg. kg. French l'oUed
loaf. PAIN fRANÇAlS EN ROULEAU -- 'Put 2* (5 lb., 20 cups) sieved flour into a
kneading trough. Knead it (51b., 20 cups) sieved flour into a kneading trough.
Knead it with generous litre (2 pints, 2f pints) milk, 250 g. (8 oz., I cup) with
generous litre (2 2~ pints) milk, 250 (8 OZ., 1 wann butter, 60 g. (2t oz.) 60 g.
yeast and oz.) yeast (2 oz and 50 g. (2 oz., warm butter, .• 3 tablespoons) salt.
When all the ingredients have been mixed, tablespoons) salt. When all the
Ingredients have mixed, knead with a sufficient quantity of hot water. Mix well,
cover, knead with a sufficien t quan tily of hot wa 1er. Mix well, cover, and leave
for 2 hours. Shape into rolls, put them on baking and leave for 2 hours. Shape ioto
rolls. put them on baking trays and leave in a warm place to rise for an hour. Bake
in a trays and leave in a warm place to r1se for an hOUI. Bake in a very hot oven
for 20 minutes.' hot oyen for 20 minutes,' plns i ul lrnRrNe, A r.l. Loaf à i la la
terrine terrine or grecque. PAlN or à i la la grecque. À LA TERRJl'.'E, À LA
cREceuE -'Put 2f, kg. (5 lb., 20 cups) slightly warm fine flour GRECQUE - 'Put 2i
kg. (5 lb., 20 cups) slightly warm fine fiour into a a big big mixing mixing bowl,
bowl, also (2 oz.) also warm. warm. Add Add 50 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast, into 50 g. (2 3
lablespoons) tablespoons) salt quantity of salt and and a a "LHU...,.'
sufficient .... "L 50, g. (2 oz., 3 water or or milk to to make make the dough
rather the dough rather soft. soft. water 'Knead thoroughly, thoroughly, caver,
cover, and keep in plae for and keep in a a warm warm place for 'Knead Divide into
3 hours. 8 loaves loaves and put these and put these into into buttered buttered 3
hours. Divide into 8 terrines. terrines. 'Bake in in a a very very hot When nearly
baked, baked, rem remove ove 'Bake hot oven. aven. When from the terrines on baking
trap for a a few few minutes from the terrines and and put put on baking trays
minutes to a little.' little.' to let let them them brown brownpArN a Choim -A
Cbome bread. bread. PAIN DE DE cHorNE CHOINE A fine-textured fine-textured white
white bread. salted bread, bread. It It was was once once a a salled bread.
therefore therefore a a luxury, luxury, salt salt being being extremely extremely
expensive expensive in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century. century. p.lnr
Consecrated Consecrated bread. bread. PAIN sfxn BÉNIT - Consecrated Consecrated
bread, bread, which which is is distributed distributed in in churches churches of
of big big towns, towns, is is most most frequently frequently made of fine brioche
dough. made of fine brioche dough. In In the the country country the the dough
dough for for consecrated consecrated bread bread is is made made like like brioche
brioche dough, dough, using using the the following following ingredients:
ingredients: I 1 kg. kg. cups) (18 sieved flour, g. 500 2| cups) oz., butter,
Q+1b.,9 (2* lb., 9 sieved flour, 500 (18 02., 2i cups) butter, 20 e.G oz.) brewer's
yeast, I litre (scant pint, 2f cups) boiled 20 (j oz.) ~ litre pint, 2* cups)
boiled milk and and a a pinch pinch of salt. pArN pArN Engfish tin loaf. loaf. PA1N
ANGLATS, ANGLAlS, Drr DIT Aussr AUSSI PAIN DE DE MrE MIE English m or tin Used for
crofftons, white breadcrumbs, etc., or for making Used for croûtons, white
breadcrumbs, etc., or for making sandwiches, toast, or canapis served ashors-
d'euvre. sandwiches, toast, or canapés serve<! as hors-d'œuvre. English loaves
loaves are are baked baked in in rectangular tins, tins, and and are are used used
for making hollowed-oat croustades (q.v) in in which which various various
ragottts, pur6es, etc. are served. ragoûts, purées, etc. are served. tr'inger rolls
with milk- pnrns pAINs AU LArT - Spread I kg. Finger mUs with mllk. PETITS PAlNS AU
LAIT 1 kg. Q*1b.,9 (2* lb., 9 cups) cups) sieved sieved flour flour on on the the
table table in in a a circle. Makel Make a well weil in in the the centre, centre,
and and put put into in ta it it 250 250 g. g. e (9 oz., oz., generous generous
cup) butter, 25 g. (l oz., 2 tablespoons) fine sugar, and a pinch oi butter, 25 g.
(1 OZ., 2 tablespoons) fine sugar, and a salt. Moisten with 5 dl. (scant
pint,Zf,cups) boildd milk and salt. Moisten wîth 5 dl. (seant pint, 2-i cups)
boiled and add a little warm water. Knead with 40 g. (ll o2.,2 cakes) add a little
wann wateL Knead with 40 O!- oz., 2 cakes) baker's yeast and leave until the next
morning. baker's and leave until tbe next Divide the the dough dough into into
small small 60-9. or 80-g. (2foz. or 3-oz.) pieces and shape into slightly oval
rolls. Sp[t -he rolls 3-02.) pieces and shape inlo slightly rails. slightly
slightly in in the the centre, centre, brush brush with with beaten beaten egg egg
and bake in a hot hot oven. oven_ Finger rolb with eggs. pETrrs pArNs Ar,rx oEtrFs
- These are mUs with PETITS PAINS AUX OEUFS - These are made like FWer rolls with
milk, adding3 egg yolks. made Finger wilh milk, 3 egg yolks. Gonesse Bread. pArN DE
coNEssE - This was renowned for Gonesse Bread. PAIN DE GONESSE was renowned for its
its whiteness whiteness and and taste. taste. Gonesse Gonesse was was once once a a
village village on on the the outskirts outskirts of ofParis. Paris. Olivier
Olivier de de Serres Serres said said that that the the bakers bakers of of

20 cups) flour in the mixing trough. Make a well in the middle 20 cups) fiour in
the mixing Make a weil in the middle and put in 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast. Moisten with
warm water and and put in 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast. with warm water and mix until until
the the consistency of of brioche brioche dough dough is is reached, reached, mix
kneading well and adding 50 g. (2 o2.,3 tablespoons) fine salt, kneading well and
adding g. (2 oz., 3 tablespoons) fine salt, diluted in in a a little warm water.
Cover and put in a warm place diluted httle warm water. Cover and put in a warm
place to ferment and rise. to ferment and fise.

t46 146
BREDES BRÈDES

of of melted melted butter, butter, and and roll roll them them in in freshly
freshly grated grated breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs. Coat with with breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs à la la milanaise. milanaise. p.lNrn PANER A À LA Coat MTLANATSE
MILANAISE - As As ri à I'anglaise l'anglaise (see (see below), below), but but
adding adding oneonethird third of oftheir their volume volume of ofgrated grated
Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese to to the the breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs. Coat Coat
with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. rANER PANER A À t'lNcLAIsn
L'ANGLAISE - To To dip dip various various foods foods - escalopes, escalopes,
fillets fillets of of fish, fish, cutlets, cutlets, etc. etc. in in a a mixture
nUxture of of beaten beaten egg, egg, seasoned seasoned with with a a little little
oil, oil, salt salt of food food are are and pepper, pepper, and and white white
breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. The The items items of and then fried fried in in
clarified c1arified butter. butter. then

Breadfruit Breadfruit

Prepared in in this way it it is is a a valuable valuable food, food, very very

nutritious, nutritious, its taste recalling recalling that that of of freshly
freshly baked baked bread, bread, with with a a slight sligbt hint of of artichoke
artichoke and Jerusalem Jerusalem artichoke. artichoke. provide sufficient Two Two
or three three of of these these trees, trees, it it is is claimed, claimed,
provide sufficient food for one man man for for a a whole whole year. year. The The
seeds seeds are are also also edible, edible, and and are are roasted roasted in in
the the cinders cinders or or cooked cooked in in water water like Iike chestnuts,
in size size and and taste. taste. chestnuts, which they resemble resemble a a
little little in tree the iack Another species species of of the breadfruit
breadfruit tree tree called called the jack tree has fruit fruit structurally
resembling resembling the the breadfruit" breadfruit, and and is is eaten eaten
greatly inferior a vast scale, scale, but on on a but it it is is greatly inferior
to to the the real real breadbreadsmall is eaten ocrea is fruit in taste. taste.
Its Its ocrea eaten like like chestnuts. cbestnuts. A A small fruit in genuine
breadgreen ocrea quantity of fruit quantity fruit and the the green ocrea of of the
the genuine breadare exported exported.. fruit tree fruit tree are and of milk
Saucemade cookery)BX.EAD SAUCE SAUCE (English - Sauce made of milk and BREAD
@ngtish cookery) fried game' In England fried In England roast game. with roast It
is is served with breadcrumbs. It sauce. as this time as same time at the the same
served at usually served breadcrumbs are usually this sauce. breadcrumbs (See
SAUCE.) (See

Breadfruit tree Breadfruit

plnl -- Genus Genus of of plants A PAIN ARBRE À BREADFRUIT TREE. ARBRE BREADFRUIT
TREE. palm. It pakn and It is is a a raffia palm. and the the raffia which includes
the the sago sago palrn which includes leaves. deeply divided divided leaves. and
deeply beautiful soft timber timber and tree, witb with soft beautiful tree,
cultivated and is is cultivated regions and Tbe of tropical tropical regions The
tree tree is is a a native native of and in in the the archipelago and of the the
Asiatic Asiatic archipelago throughout islands of throughout the the islands It
attains attains a a regions. It equatorial regions. Pacific to the the equatorial
islands close close to Pacific islands (50 to a thick, thick, and contains contains
a heigbt to 65 65 feet) feet) and 15 to 20 m. m. (50 height of of 15 to 20 juice
whicb glue. The The kind of of glue. is made into a a kind viscous, made into milky
juice which is viscous, milky juice, which is used used by by the the the air, air,
is exposure to to the juice, on exposure hardens on which bardens canoes. The The
their canoes. to waterproof waterproof their natives Seas to natives of of the the
South South Seas in the the building building is used used in very hard, hard, is
timber, in spite not being being very spite of of not timber, in and is beaten out
and beaten out fibrous inner inner bark bark is The fibrous of buts and ofhuts and
canoes. canoes. The enormous reach enormous The Jeaves, leaves, which which reach
made cloth. The into a a kind kind of of cIoth. made into for and roofing roofing
for food and for food dimensions, as wrapping wrapping for dimensions, serve serve
as as flowers are are used used as of the the male male f10wers dwellings. dried
spikes spikes of dwellings. The The dried tinderwood. tinderwood. greenishof aa
greenishand of round and Tbe is large large and and round The fruit fruit itself
itself is food for for the the yellow colour; of food itern of important item
yellow it is is an an important colour; it laxative is laxative taste, is
islanders. ripe it it has has a a sweetish sweetish taste, When fully fully ripe
islanders. When gathered before quickly. It goes bad It is is gathered before and
bad quickly. and indigestible, indigestible, and and goes and white, mealy mealy
and sb is it is firm firm and and white, flesh is fully fully ripe, ripe, when when
the the fie it is qualities of of nutritive qualities almost ail all tbe the
nutritive rich hasalmost in starch, rich in starch, and and has wheaten wheaten
bread. bread. or hot coals, coals, or on hot toasted on It or toasted and baked
baked or is cut cut in in slices slices and It is rather dark. dark. becomesrather
baked outside skin skin becomes theoutside in the theoyen oven until until the
baked in
r47 147

Bream Bream

in appearance appearance fish, in freshwater fish, European freshwater BREAM. BRÈME

sRitrffi -- European BREAM. (q.v.) can can given for carp (q.v.) for carp recipes
given carp. AlI the recipes resembling the All the the carp. resembling (q.v.) and
and for matelotes matelotes (q.v.) It is is mostly mostly used used for bream. It
be applied applied to to bream. be fish stews. stews. fish
(See restaurateur' (See Parisian restaurateur. BREBANT Famous Famous Parisian
BRÉBANT DAYS.) BYGONE DAYS.) RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE RESTAURANTS given in in sorne
of the the old old (Creole cookery) Name given some of cookery) -- Name BRDDES
(Créole BRÈDES leaves of of different different from leaves made from dish made to
aa dish colonies to French colonies French cabbage, pumpkin shoots, shoots,
cabbage, plants: watercress, of pumpkin watercress, tips tips of plants: Island;
R6union Island; of Réunion is a a speciality speciality of This dish dish is
lettuce. This spinach, lettuce. spinach, (see crCole (see Rdceà d. with Rice
isserved and is served with it is is very very refreshing refreshing and la créole
Ia it RICE). RICE). leaves of of aa Trim the the leaves DE CHOU cHou -- Trim sRtnEs
DE brides. BRÈDES Cabbage brèdes. Cabbage veins. Shred Shred c€ntre veins. the
tough tough centre and remove remove the cabbage and white cabbage white asfor fot
sauerkraut. sauerkraut. finely as finely golden. light golden. itis islight and fry
fry until until it into strips strips and Cutsorne some bacon bacon into Cut
chopped tomato. tomato. ginger and pounded ginger and aa chOPPed pinch of Add aa
pincb of pounded Add
BRESOLLES BRESOLLES
Moisten with with a a little little water, water, simmer for 20 20 minutes.
minutes. Put simmer for Put the the Moisten shredded cabbage cabbage into into this
this sauce and cook sauce and cook for for about about 11 l| shredded hours. Serve
(see RICE) .Riceà Serve Rice dla la créole uiole (see RICE) separately. separately.
hours. Lettuce brèdes. brldes. BRÈDES sRioEs DE DE LAITUES LArruEs -- Wash Wash the
leaves of Lettuce of the leaves cabbage lettuce lettuce and and cut cut them them
lengthways. lengthways. Soak Soak in in cold cold cabbage water. Prepare Prepare in
in the the same same manner manner as Watercress brèdes u Watercress brides water.
(see below) less sauce below) but but use use less sauce and and allow allow
shorter cooking time. shorter cooking (see time. Pump\in brèdes. brides. BRÈDES
nntpss DE DE CITROUILLE crrRor.JrLLB -- Detach Detach the Pumpl9n the pumpkin shoot
leaves of of pwnpkin shoot tips, tips, leaving leaving apiece a piece of of stalk
stalk 1 I cm. cm. leaves (* inch) inch) long long on on each each leaf. leaf. Peel
Peel off parts, offall and stringy skin and (1 ail skin stringy parts, and scrape
green knots. scrape off off ail all green knots. Wash Wash carefully carefully and
and leave and leave to to in cold soak in cold water. water. Drain. Drain. Put good
fat Put sorne fat in in a some good a casserole, soak casserole, add sorne some
diced diced bacon, bacon, and and brown brown a a chopped chopped onion in this
onion in add this mixture. Add Add a a large, large, skinned, skinned, seeded
quartered seeded- and mixture. and quartered tomato, and garlic and and sorne some
salt, ginger, which salt, garlic and ginger, which have have been tomato, been
pounded in in a a mortar. mortar. Simmer Simmer for for a a few few moments.
moments. Add poùnded Add the the prepared pumpkin pumpkin shoots shoots and and
simrner without adding simmer without adding water. prepared water. Spinrch brèdes.
brldes. BRÈDES sRiDEs D'ÉPINARDS o'6plNlnos -- Prepare Prepare as Spinach as above,
above, blanching the the spinach spinach before putting it before putting it into
into the blanching the sauce. sauce. Watercress brèdes. brddes. BRÈDES sRtnEs DE DE
CRESSON cREssoN -- Wash Watercress Wash and pick and pick over the the cress cress
as as for for a (5 oz.) a salad. g. (5 salad. Fry Fry 150 150 g. oz) thickly over
thickly sliced sliced bacon and and a a chopped chopped onion golden. Pound onion
until until golden. Pound 2 garlic bacon 2 garlic cloves, a pinch of a pinch ginger
and of ginger and salt in a salt in a mortar, mortar, and cloves, and add add to to
the the mixture, together with peeled, seeded with a a peeled, seeded and mixture,
and sliced sliced tomato. Allow to brown for a a few moments, moments, then add add
11 l| large glasses AJlow of water. Boil down the sauce sauce slightly, slightly,
and put in of in the cress cress to to simmer is done. done. Serve Serve with with
plenty of sauce and sim mer until it is and hand hand (see RICE) separately. d la
Ia créole criole (see separately. Rice à
dish was was said said to have been invented by BRESOLLES by - This dish in charge
chef in the chef charge of Marquis de of Marquis de Bresolles' kitchen kitchen who
the it after his called it his master. called 'Chop finely 250 g. (generous 1 g.
(generous ham with onions, I lb.) lean ham a few few spring spring onions, onions,
sorne some mushrooms and garlic clove. and a a garlic a pepper and a Season with
salt, pepper grated nutmeg, a little grated Season nutrneg, and and add little
olive oil. a little 'Put a a layer layer of this this forecemeat forecemeat into a
a buttered earthen@sserole. Lay thin slices slices of of veal, beef mutton on top,
ware casserole. beef or mutton and continue altemating alternating layers layers of
forcemeat and and slices of and meat (* inch) from the meat until the casserole is
filled filled up to 1 ] cm. (t top. Cover with a lid and and cook in the oven.
'Garnish and pour 'Gamish with with braised braised chestnuts, chestnuts, and pour
over over some sorne Demi-glace sauce (q.v.) flavoured with Madeira.'

(A LA) BRETONNE BRETONNE (À preparedàd la LA) -- Most Most dishes dishes prepared
la bretonne bretonne garnish of include include a agamish (seeBEAN, of beans beans
cooked cookedà d la labretonne bretonne (see BEAN, Fresh Fresh white haricot
beans). white haricot beans). Thus Thus Leg Leg or orShoulder Shoulder ofmutton of
muttonà d la (seeMUTTON) Ia bretonne bretonne (see MUTTON) is pot-roasted
(some(someis roasted or pot-roasted roasted or times times braised), braised), and
and served served with with beans. beans. Purée PurCe bretonne bretonne is is made
made of of beans beanscooked cooked à d la la bretonne bretonne and and served,
served, clarified, clarified, as as a a soup; soup; or or if if aa thicker thicker
consistency consistency is is retained, retained, as garnish for as a a vegetable
vegetable or or a a gamish for meat. meat. Sauce Sauce bretonne bretonne is poured
over poached or is poured over poached or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs eggs and and
braised braised fillets fillets of of fish. fish. This This does does not not
contain contain any any beans beans but but is is made made by adding finely by
adding finely shredded shredded carrots, carrots, celery celery and and leeks,
leeks, lightly lightly tossed in butter, tossed in butter, to veloutC sauce to
thick thick velouté saucewith wirth cream, cream, or (See SAUCE; or to to white
white wine wine sauce. sauce. (See SAUCE; SOLE, SOLE, Sole Sole à d la la
bretonne.) bretonne.)
BRETONNEAU me for BRETONIYEAU -- An An old old Norman Norman na name for turbot.
turbot. BRIE BRIE -- Name Name of province of of an an ancient ancient province
France, situated of France, situated to to the the east east of of Paris, Paris,
with with the the town town of of Meaux Meaux as as capital. capital. The The
province province was was once once divided dividd into into three three regions:
regions: Brie Brie champen'oise (Meaux), Brie champenoise (Meaux), (Brie-Comte-
Robert) frangaise (Brie-Comte-Robert) Brie française and pouilleuse (Château-
Thierry). (Chdteau-Thierry). These and Brie Brie pouilleuse These regions regions
were were part of part government of of the the government of Champagne. Champagne.
The name of of Brie Brie is is known known for The name for the prothe excellent
excellent cheeses cheeses produced duced there. there. There There are are no no
other gastronomical specialities. other gastronomical specialities. The The cuisine
cuisine is is the the same same as as that that of of the the Ile-de-France Ile-de-
France and, and, therefore, similar similar to to the the one one which which
constitutes constitutes the the basis basis of of Parisian cookery. cookery. Brie
cheeses. FROMAGES FRoMAGES DE Brle cheeses. DE BRIE BRIE -- In In a a research
research dedicated dedicated to to Brie cheeses one reads reads the year 12 the
following: Every Every year 12 million million cheeses are are sold in the sold in
the département dipartemenr of of Seine-et-Marne. Seine-et-Marne. In In Meaux Meaux
alone alone 4,420,000 4,420,0(X) francs' francs' worth worth of of cheese cheese is
is sold sold annually; worth. annually; in in Crécy Crecy 1,300,000 1,300,000
francs' francs'worth. There There are are two qualities of two distinct distinct
qualities Brie cheeses: of Brie cheeses: skimskimmilk cheeses made, as as their
namestates, name states, from skimmed milk, se made and and cream cream chee cheese
made from whole cows' cows' milk. The latter (especially the (especially the
cheeses cheeses made made in in the region of Nangis the region Nangis with pure
whole whole milk drawn drawn twice twie daily, daily, moming morning and and
evening) evening) are extremely delicate. delicate. According According to M.
Teyssier des Forges, des Forges, ses that it was was these these chee cheeses that
were were served at the served at the Congress Congress of of proclaimed 'the best
the world'. Vienna and and proclaimed best in the It seems that this estimation
estimation of Brie cheeses, cheeses, made made in 1863, 1863, be excellent still
holds holds good. good. The still quality continues The quality continues to to be
especially where farm cheeses especially where farm cheeses are are concemed,
concerned, although although the se, unfortunately, are becoming more and these,
and more difficult difficult to find. The Brie dc de Meaux Meaux and Brie de de
Coulommiers are best best The Brie and Brie Coulommrers are eaten from from October
October to to May. May. The Brie de Melun can can be b~ eaten The Brie de Melun
year. (See CHEESE.) CHEESE.) consumed throughout the year. - Drid Dried plum plwn
which gets its name name from from the the BRIGNOLE département of Var. It It is
used used in in town of Brignoles in the dipartement compotes in the same same way
way as as dried apricots apricots and and prunes. prunes. compotes BR ILL. BARBUE
BARBUE - Flat Flat sea sea fish, possessing possessing a sirnilarity BRILL. a
certain similarity to turbot, from which it differs by its smaller size, size,
slightly to more elongated shape, and and by the tiny tiny scales scales which
cover is light light and delicate. delicate. Its flesh is its skin. Is
BRESSE BRESSE - The The name name of of this this ancient ancient part part of
France France is known throughout the the world world for the the excellence
excellence of Bresse Bresse chickens and capons. capons. BRESTOIS - Cake which used
to be made in Brest: Brest: Whisk 12 12 eggs eggs and 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 2f 2*
cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar over over a low low heat (as for Genoese pastry).
Add Add 125 125 g. (4 (4 oz.,l oz., ! cup) sweet sweet blanched blanched almonds
almonds pounded in a mortar mortar with with 3 3 whole whole eggs. Flavour Flavour
with with a few few drops of lemon essence, essence, a little bitter almond alrnond
essence, essence, and and a small srnall glass of Curagao. Curaçao. Whisk Whisk the
the mixture mixture thoroughly thoroughly and and add add 375 375 glass of g. g.
(13 (13 oz., oz., generous generous l| 1t cups) cups) melted melted butter butter
and and 375 375 g. g. (13 oz., oz., 3| 3* cups) cups) sieved sieved cake cake
flour. flour. Blend Blend well. weil. Put Put the the mixture mixture into into
buttered buttered brioche brioche moulds. moulds. Bake Bake in in a a slow cake, if
if wrapped wrapped in in foil, foil, will keep keep slow oven. oven. This This type
type of cake, in in perfect perfect condition condition for for a a long long time.
time. It It is is a a kind kind of of 'travelling 'travelling cake' cake' (gdteau
(gâteau de de voyage). voyage). BRETON BRETON (Giteau) (Gâteau) - This This gdteau
gâteau was was created created by by Monsieur Monsieur Dubusc, of the the Seugnot
Seugnot laboratories. laboratories. Dubusc, chief chief of The The Breton, Breton,
made made from from almond almond biscuit biscuit paste, paste, is is assembled
assembled by by placing placing different different cakes cakes on on top top of of
one one another, another, icing icing each each with with a a different different
colour colour fondant fondant icing icing and and then then decorating decorating
it. it.

BRETON BRETON FAR. FAR. r.cR FAR BREToN BRETON speciality, speciality, made made
commercially. commercially.

Cream flan. flan, a a Breton Breton Cream

Brill

148
BRILL BRILL
crayfish with crayfish Sometimes Sometimes the the fish fish is is glazed glazed by
by dotting dotting it it with above butter and heating it it in in the oven, oven,
surrounded by by the the above separately. garnish, wittr the sauce served
separately. with -

How to divide divide a a brill brjll How

lightly fillets lightly lifting the a brill, brill, lifting dark-skinned side of a
on the dark-skinned the fillets dish a fireproof Butter a and seasoning the fish
inside inside and out. Butter fireproof dish a tabletablewith a it with brill
whole, long enough to take the brill who le, sprinkle it fish. put in in the the
fish. and put and parsley, chopped shallots and spoott chopped spoon parsley, and I
dl. dl. and 1 wine and white wine cup) white (6 tablespoons, sc{tnt t dl. (6
tablespoons, seant AAO Add t 1 dl. } cup) which stock which fish stock (6
tablespoons, (6 tablespoons, scant * t cup) concentrated fish (q.v.). a fumet of a
consistency of to the the consistency down to has fumet (q.v.). has been boiled
boiled down pieces and and very small small pieces into very (2 oz., g. (2 cup)
butter into oz., t Cut 50 g. Cut 50 * cup) to put in in the the oven oven to fish.
Bring to the boil, and put scatter over the fish. scatter
frequently. 15 minutes, basting frequently. for 12 12 to to 15 cook for dish the
dish putting the glazcitby nearly cooked, glaze When the brill is nearly it by
putting part of the the oven. into the hottest part in to the BARBUE silrces.
BARBUE various sauces. with varioll'i poached briU brill with Boiled or or poacbed
Boiled (q.v.) of water of water a court-bouillon court'bouillon (q.v.) Make a
PocISE -- Make BouILLIE, POCHÉE BOUILLIE, on the brill brill on proportions. Put
Put the in equal proportions. and salted boiled milk in and pour the court'bouillon
pan, and the court-bouillon and pour grill in in a a shallow shallow pan, a wire
wire grill a impurities the impurities off the it boils, skim skim off When it it.
Heat Heat slowly. slowly. When over over it. a with a the brill brill with cover
the the liquid, cover of the surface of to the the surface which rise to 12 minutes
minutes allowing 12 leave to to simmer simmer very slowly, allowing and leave
napkin and (l lb.) g. (l lb.) of of fish. per 500 500 g. cooking time per over and
brush brush over thoroughly, and drain the the brill thoroughly, cooked, drain When
cooked, boiled with boiled Garnish with serving. Garnish before serving. melted
butter butter before with with melted of the the sauces sauces one of with one
parsley, and and serve serve with potatoes and fresh parsley, and fresh potatoes
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). fish (see for boiled boiled fish recommended for recommended
FEMME -soNNE FEMME A LA Ll BONNE BARBLJE À femme" BARBUE h bonne bonne femme. Brill
Bril à n la (4 oz.) g. (4 oz.') thinly thinly I25 g. Bercy, adding adding 125 la
Bercy, Brill à it la as for for Brill Prepare Prepare as a and a wine and white
wine with white and moistening moistening with sliced mushrooms, and sliced
mushrooms, (see SAUCE) fish on fish based on SAUCE) based sauce (see Velouti sauce
few few tablespoons tablespoons Velouté in cooking in finish cooking and finish the
stove, stove, and boil on on the Bring to to the the boil stock. stock. Bring
Glaze. the the oven. oven. Glaze. BouncuIGNoNNE -A LA r,c. BOURGUIGNONNE BARBUE À
Brill la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. BARBUE Bdll à i la pan put in in a pepper,
put a buttered buttered pan and pepper, with salt salt and a brill Season Season a
brill with mushglazed onions and small small mushonions and with small small glazed
and and surround surround with (* pint,scant (q.v.) and pint, scant 2 2 garni
(q.v.) and 4 4 dl. dl. Ct rooms. a bouquet bouquet garni Add a rooms. Add pan and
and Cover the the pan preferably Burgundy. Burgundy. Cover cups) red wine, wine,
preferably cups) red in the cook cook in the oven. oven. garnish. Boil the Boil
down down the and garnish. cooked, and when cooked, Remove the brill when Remove
the brill (q.v.). of aa fumet consistency of it reaches reaches the the consistency
liquor liquor until until it fumet (q.v.). (see (3 tablespoons) Kneaded butter
butter (see tablespoons) Kneaded Blend in 2 2 tablespoons Blend in tablespoons (3
(3oz., g. (3 6 add 75 oz., 6 75 g. minute or or two, two, add for aa minute
BUTTER), BUTTER), boil boil for Pour this this and strain. strain. Pour thoroughly,
and tablespoons) butter, blend blend thoroughly, tablespoons) butter, sa uce over
over the the brill. brill. sauce BRAIsfo -garnishes. BARBUE BARBUE BRAISÉE various
garnishes. Braised with varioll'i Braised brill brill with pan on foundation put it
a shallow on aa foundation it in in a shallow pan and put Season brill and Season
the the brill in lightly fried frid in which have have been been lightly of ions
which and on onions carrots and of sliced sliced carrots parsley and andaa thyme,
parsley fish stock, stoclg thyme, butter. concentrated fish Add concentrated
butter. Add in a a slow basting cook in slow oven, oven, basting bay and cook the
boil, boil, and leaf. Bring Bring to to the bay leaf. frequently. frequently. most
is most This is Drain remove the the backbone. backbone. This and remove Drain the
the brill brill and wellon aa wellup, on easily placing the fish, dark dark side
side up, the fish, by placing easily done done by very fillets with with aavery
buttered plate or removing the thefillets dish, removing long plate or dish,
buttered long fillets. sharp replacing the thefillets. and replacing the bone,
bone,and knife, taking out the taking out sharp knife, youare cover and cover are
using, Garnish recipe you using, and in the the recipe as indicated indicated in
Garnish as liquor, with added the the braising braising liquor, which has has been
been added with aa sauce sauce to to which red with red boiled moistened with
Braised brill brill moistened and strained. strained. Braised boiled down doivnand
(q.v.), wine of aafumet consistency of wine fish fish stock reduced to to the
theconsistency stock reduced fumct (q.v.), garnishes: bourguignonne can
bourguignonne following garnishes: can be beserved with the the following served
with (seebelow). Brill (see above), below). Brill (see etc.(see mdconnaise, etc.
above), Chambertin, Chambertin,mâconnaise, garnishes braised oneof ofthe
thegarnishes withone braised in wine can can be beserved servedwith in white white
wine used recomthoserecomin white white wine, wine, especially especiallythose for
fish fish cooked cooked in used for mended mended for forsoles. soles. Brill
andtrim trim aabrill brill BARBUE BRANCAS BRANcAs - - Scale Scale and Brill
Brancas. Brancas. BARBUE pieces. weighing (l* lb.), into uniforrn uniform pieces.
g.(Ii andcut cut into lb.), and 750g. weighing about about750 Put ion, leek toaa
heart of ofcelery celeryshredded shredded to andhalf half aaheart anon leekand
Putan onion,

incisions a few few incisions Make a LA ssRcv Brill à i la Bercy. Bercy. BARBIE
BARBUE A À LA BERCY - Make

ail the seas of Europe, but the brill This fish abounds in all Atlantic Ocean is of
of the greatest gastronomical gastronomical caught in the Atlantic flounder,
resembles value. Grey Grey sole, sole, a a species of fiounder, resembles brill.
species of value. fiounder, dab and lemon sole can be prepared in the Winter
flounder, same way as brill. same making a transverse incision incision under the a
transverse Clean the fish by making and trim, dark-skinned side. side. Scale and
trim, shortening head on on the dark-skinned head slices or the tail a little. Wash
the fish, fish, and cut in half, or in slices fillets. a Brill à I'am6ricaine.
l'américaine. BARBUE À r'uvrfnlcAlNE L'AMÉRICAINE - Cook Cook a BARBUE A Brill
Brill in for Bri/l recipe for in the as described described in the recipe medium-
sized brill brill as (see below). with slices slices of of white wine wine (see
below). Drain, and garnish with Drain, and white small'Iobster Lobster à LOBSTER).
d l'américaine I'amiricaine (see LOBSTER). small'lobster or Lobster add cooked, and
add Boil down the liquor in which the fish was cooked, to it American American
sauce (see SAUCE). brill. toit SAUCE). Pour over the brill.

BriJl Brill à ri l'amiral I'amiral

Brill and slit Scale and slit BARBLJE À A L'AMIRAL t'lMtn^lr, -- Seale Brill à I
l'amiral. I'amiral. BARBUE (2*-lb.) brill. lengthwise, a l-kg. (2t-Ib.) brill.
side, al-kg. lengthwise, on on the dark-skinned side, the dark-skinned Place pour
in pan. Season, and pour in Season, and in a Plaoe it it in a buttered buttered
shallow shallow pan. white has been boiled down down to to a a which has been
boiled white wine wine fish fish stock stock which fumet (q.v.), enough fish.
Season. Season. reach the level of of the the fish. to reach the level enough to
fumet (q.v.), Bring for 25 25 to place in in a a hot hot oven oven for to cover,
and and place Bring to to the the boil, boil, cover, 30 partly cooked, cooked,
baste baste has been been partly fish has After the the fish 30 minutes. minutes.
After from liquor; if if basted earlier there there its own own liquor; basted
earlier from time time with with its time to to time ove is and rem remove When
cooked, cooked, drain drain and fish splitting. is a risk of the fish splitting.
When of the a risk aU Trim off off the the side side bones. bones. all the the dark
dark skin. skin. Trim Place away ail wipe away all care to to wipe on a a serving
dish, taking taking care Place on serving dish, liquid. in the Make the oven. oven.
Make Heat for for a a moment moment or or two two in liquid. Heat Normande pan,
(see SAUCE) liquor in in the the pan, from the the liquor Normanfu sauce SAUCE)
from sauce (see which little and had had aa little down, and has been boiled down,
been strained, strained, boiled which has Crayfish (see BUTTER) it. added to to it.
butter (see BUfiER) added Crayfish butter Garnish and breadcrumbs and in egg and
breadcrumbs coated in egg and Garnish with with oysters oysters coated fried,
crayfrsh with crayfish filled with shells filled fried, mussels Villeroi, scallop
scallop shells mussels à d la la Villeroi, tails the browned under under the tails
à with the the tops tops slightly slightly browned ri la la Nantua Nantua with
grill, (q.v.). DecDec' grill, and in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). cooked
in and mushrooms mushrooms cooked orate have been been which have truffie which
slices of of truffie brill with with thin thin slices orate the the brill heated
pepper. and pepper. with salt salt and in butter and seasoned seasoned with heated
in butter and The amiral applies flat Brill àd /' applies to to ail all fiat
cooking Brill The method I'atniral method of of cooking fish little court-bouillon,
court-bouillon, in very very little fish which which are are braised; braise in
braised; braise and very weil. well. and flavour flavour the or fumet the stock
stock or fumet very 149 r49
BRILL BRILL
julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) into pan with (l OZ., finejulienne into aa pan g. (l with 25
25 g. oz., 2 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine pinch of butter and and aa pinch of
salt. salt. Cook Cook very very slowly. slowly. When When the the butter vegetables
are are about about three-quarters three-quarters donc, done, add add 125 125 g.
vegetables E. (4 oz.) oz.) finely finely shredded mushrooms, and shredded
mushrooms, and finish finish cooking. cooking. (4 julienne \\is is called called
bretonne. bretonne. Thisjulienne is Saut6 aa tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped
onion onion in in butter, butter, and and add add 4 4 Sauté peeled, seeded seeded
and and chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, togctber together with with a a little
little peeled, garlig salt chopped garlic, pepper. Simmer and pepper. salt and
Simmer slowly, slowly, stirring stirring chopped from time you get get a time to to
time, time, until until you a tomato tomato fondue. Add Add a a smaU small from
spoon cbopped parsley. chopped parsley. spoon Butter an an ovenware ovenware dish,
dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with salt salt and and freshly freshly Butter ground
pepper, pepper, and julienne. Put pour in and pour in half half the the vegetable
vegetable julienne. P:ut ground (q.v.) in garni (g.v.) a bouquet bouquet garni in a
a corner corner of of the the dish dish so so that that il it can can be be a
removed at easily removed at the the end end of of cooking. cooking. Place pieces
of Plaoe the the pieces of easily brill on on the the dish dish in in the the shape
shape of of the the original original fish, fish, season season with with brill
pepper, and julienne. and pepper, salt and and cover cover with with tbe rest of
the rest of the the julienne. salt juice and Sprinkle with with a a few few drops
drops of of lemon lemon juice and add add 2 2 dl. dl. Sprinkle pint, scant scant
cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Scatter Scatter a a few few dabs dabs of butter
of butter $ pint, (t on the the surface surface of of the the fish. fish. on Bring
slowly slowly to to the place the dish the boil boil on on the the stove, stove,
then then place in dish in Bring a slow slow oven oven for for 15 15 to 18 minutes,
minutes, basting to 18 basting freguently. frequently. A A a few minutes put a
minutes before before the the end end of of cooking, cooking, put a border border
of of the the few tomato fondue round the the brill. brill. Return Return the dish
to a mueh much the dish to a fondue round tomato hotter oven glazn the oven to the
fish. fish. Before Before serving, with sprinkle with serving, sprinkle hotter to
glaze parsley. chopped parsley. chopped This way way of of cooking, cooking,
cvolved evolved from from the Dugl6r6 method method the Dugléré This preparation,
can young turbot, of preparation, can be for fish be used used for fish such as
young such as turbot, of (U.S. plaice (U fresh cod, sole, whiting, cod, plaice
flounder). sole, whiting, fresh .S. flounder). Brill à n la h callClllaise.
cancalaise. BARBUE BARBT,TE À A LA CANCALAISE clNclr,Arsu Cook the the Drill - Cook
brill white wine wine as as described in the described in recipe for for Brill the
recipe d briU in in white Bril! à I'uniral. Drain poached Garnish with with oysters
oysters poached Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Garnish l'amiral. in own liquor,
drained, and and with in their their own liguor, drained, with their their beards
beards removed. removed. Boil down the liquor in in which the fish fish was cooked,
and and add add Boil down the liguor whieh the was cooked, (see SAUCE), to sauce
(see SAUCE), which suitable fO( for brill. brill. to Normande Normande sauce which
is is suitable Brill cardil1al. BARBTJE CARDtNAL cardinal. BARBUE cARDTNAL the
backbone, Remove the backbone, Drill - Remove as described described for for
Braised brill with with various Season as Braised brm various garnishes. garnishes.
Season the the brill, brill, and and stuff stuff it it with with finely finely
poundd, pounded Pike Pike forcemeat forcemeal (see (see FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEA T), to
to which which has has been been addd added Lobster Lobster butter or Crayfish
Crayfish butter buller (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). buller or Poach poach the the
brill briU in in white white wine, wine, drain, drain, and and garnish garnish with
with slices slices of of lobster lobster or or crayfish. crayfish. Cover Cover wfth
with Cardinal Cardinal sance sauce 1 (see sauces). Sprinkle (see SAUCE, SAUCE,
White White sauces). Sprinkle with with chopped chopped coral. coral. Brill Drill
au au Chambertin. Chambertin. BARBUE BARBUE Au AU cHAMBERTTN CHAMBERTtN - Cook Cook
the the brill briU in in concentrated concentrated fish fish stock stock made made
with with Chambertin Chambertin wine, wine, as as described described for for Brill
Brill d à Ia Ûl bourguignonne, bourguignonne, making making the the saue sauce with
with Chambertin Chambertin instead instead of of Burgundy. Burgundy. Brill Bri/! an
au Chambertin Chambertin is is garnished garnishcd with with mushrooms mushrooms
which which have been been cooked cooked with with the the fish; fish; brill briU
prepared prepared d à la Ûl bourbourguignonne is garnished garnished with with
mushrooms mushrooms and and small smaU glazed glazed guignonne is onions. on ions.
Brill in Clampagne: Cbampagne: il la la champenoise. champenois<!. BARBT,JE BARBUE
AU AU Drill in cHAMpAcNE :A the brill CHAMPAGNE: Àr,iq, LA cu.lrrapnNorsn
CHA.\iPENOlSEBone and and stuff stuffthe brill with with - Bone Pike Pike forcemear
forcerneat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEM EA T). Season Season with with salt salt
and and pepper, pepper, and and place place in in a a fireproof fireproof dish dish
on on a a foundation foundation of of julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) of of
mushrooms mushrooms which which have have been been lightly lightly tossed tosscd
in butter. in butter. Add Add dry dry Champagne, Champagne, scatter scatter small
small pieces pieces of of butter butter on on the the fish, fish, bring bring
slowly slowly to to the the boil, boil, and and place place in in the the oven oven
to to comcomplete plete cooking, eooking, basting basting frequently. frequently.
Drain Drain the the fish, fish, and and add add to to the the liquor liquor in in
the the dish dish 3 3 tabletablespoons spoons (scant (scant * t cup) cup) Veloutd
Velouté sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based bascd on on (6 fish fish stock,
stock, and and 5 5 tablespoons tablespoons (6 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream.
eream. Add Add butter butter to to the the sau@, sauce, strain, strain, pour pour
over over the the brill, brill, and and glaze glaze in in a a very hot oven oven
for for a a few few minutes. minutes. very hot Brill Brill Ch6rubin Cbérubin.
BARBIJE BARBUE cnfnusrN CHÉRUBtN - Season Season the the brill brill with with
paprika, paprika, plae place in in a a buttered buttered pan pan on on a a
foundation foundation of of a a fine fine salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (g.v.) of of
carrots,leeks carrots, leeks and and celery, celery, add add concentrated
concentrated fish fish stock, stock, and and cook eook in in the the oven, oven,
basting basting frequently. frequently.

Drain the the brill, and surround surround with brill, and with small heaps of
Drain small heaps of very very (see FONDUE) thick Tomato Tomato fondue FONDUE)
alternating alternating with tbiek with fondue (see truffies cut cut into into
large large dice. dice. truffles Boil down down the the liquor liquor in in which
which the the fish fish was was cooked cooked to Boil to aa (q.v.), strain, julimne
(g.v.) (q.v.) of (red) and add add a a julienne strain, and fumet of sweet sweet
(red) fumet (g.v.), pimentos which which have have been been lightly lightly fried
fried in in butter. butter. Mix Mix with with pimentos (ser, SAUCE) Hollandnise
sauce sauce (see pour it SAUCE) and and pOUT it over Hollandaise over the the briU.
brill. Glaze in in a a very very hot hot oven. oven. Glaze Cold brill brill with
with VlIrÎOUS various sauces. stuces. IlARIlUE BARBuE FROID FRorD - Cook Cold Cook
the the fish as as described described in in the for Boiled brUI, recipe for the
recipe brill, and and leave leave to fish to cool in in the the liguor. liquor.
Drain Drain the garnish with the brill brill weil, well, gamish cool with fresh
fresh parsley or or lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, and and serve serve with with
mayonnaise mayonnaise or parsley any or any recommended for other sauce sauce
recommended for cold cold fish. fish. other Brilt witb with crayfish: crayfish: à i
la la Nantua. Nantua. BARBUE BARBT.JE AUX lux ÉCRiVISSES: fcnrvrssrs: À A Drill LA
NANTUA NANTUA - Prepare Prepare as (see below), as Brill Brill with with shrimps LA
shrirnps (see replacing shrimps ldrth Nantua shrimps by crayfish crayfish tails,
and and covering covering with Nantua replacing (see SAUCE, sauce (see SAUCE,
Compound Compound sauces). saaces). Boil Boil down down the liquol sauce the Iiguor
and add add to to the the sauce sauce before serving. serving. and gratin BARBUE
Brill in in cream cream au au gratin. BARBTJE À A LA CRiME cnirr,c AU AU GRATtN
Brill GRATTN Prepare as gratin (see (see COD), as Creamed Crearned cod cod au
gratin COD), using brill Prepare brill eut cut pieces. into pieees. into Brill à la
la dieppoise. dieppoise. IlARBUE BARBTJE À A LA ra DIEPPOlSE orrpporse BriO Cook
whole whole - Cook or filleted filleted brill brill in in white white wine. wine.
Drain Drain weil. or well. Garnish Garnish with (cooked in mussels à d la
dieppol'se (cooked la dieppoise in white white wine) wine) and and peeled shrimps.
Pour Pour over (see over the the fish fish White White wine wine sauce sauce / (see
shrimps. SAUCE, White White sauces) sauces) to which the to which concentrated pan
the concentrated SAUCE, juices have been been added. added. G Glazn in a a very
very hot hot oven. juices laze in Brill Dugléré. Dugl6r6. BARBUE DUGLÉRÉ oucrfr.6
pieces Cut the the brill into pieces Drill - Cut and prepare as as described in the
(see for.Bass and the recipe for Bass Dugldrd Dugliré (see BASS). Brin i la h
fermière. fermiCre. BARBUE sA.nsuE A r,A FERMŒRE reRMdRE Drill à À LA - Season the
brill with salt and and pepper a.buttered with salt pepper and and place place in
in a buttcred dish dish on on a (q.v.) made foundation of of a fondue carrots, on
fondue (g.v.) made from from carrots, ions, onions, leeks and celery, celery,
shredded shredded and and lightly lightly cooked leeks and cooked in in butter. Add
a a few tablespoons of Cover the brill with more/ondue. more fondue. Add dry or
concentratd dry white wine, wine, or concentrated fish fish stock based on on white
wine (see Scatter a (see STOCK, Fish stock'). stock). Scatter a few dabs of butter
on on the the fish fish and and cook cook in in a a slow slow oven, basting basting
frequently. freguently. (scant t cup) When When the the fish fish is is done, done,
add add 3 tablespoons (seant cream. Glaze Glaze in the the oven. oven. Another
Another method method is is to put put the the fish fish in in a a buttered
buttered ovenovenproof proof dish on on a a foundation of of chopped onion which
wlùch has has been lightly lightly fried in butter. Cover with sliced mushrooms,
moisten moisten with red red wine, and add add a few small smail pieces pieccs of
of butter. butter. Cook in the oven. oven. Strain the pan pan juices, juices, bring
bring to the the boil, boil, and thicken thicken with kneaded kneaded butter.
butter. Add Add a little Iittle fresh fresh butter, butter, stir stir well, weil,
and pour this this sauce over the the fish. Glaze G laze in the the oven. oven.
Fillets Fillels of brill. briO. FTLETs FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE - Clean, Clean,
scale and wash wash the the fish, fish, and fillet by by slitting slitting it it
down down the the middle middle from from head head to to tail. tail. Slide SI ide
a a sharp sharp knife knife under under the the fillets fillets to to lift lift
them, the m, taking taking care care to to sever sever them them completely
completeJy from from the the body body of of the the fish. fish. Put Put the the
fillets fiUets flat flat on the the table, table, skin skin side down, down, and
and slide the the knife knife blade hlade between between the the fish fish and and
the the skin, skin, holding holding the the fillet fillet at at one one end end so
so as as to to remove remove the the skin skin in in one one piece. piece. All AU
methods methods of of preparation preparation for for whole whole brill briU can
ean be be applied applied to to fillets. fillets. Fillets Fillels of of brill brill
I à I'anglaise. l'anglaise. FTLETs FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE A À l'^lNcr.tlss
L'ANGLA1SE Flatten Flatten the the fillets fillets a a little, little, dip dip in
in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and fry fry in in clarified
c1arified butter butter until until both both sides sides are are golden. golden.
Put Put softened softened Mattre Maître d'hdtel d'hôtel butter huiler (see (see
BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) huI/ers) on on each eaeh fillet. fillet.
Decorate Decorate with with half-slices half-slices of of lemon lemon placed placed
round round the the border border of of the the dish. dish. Fillets Fillets of of
fish fish grilled grilled and and accompanied aceompanied by by melted meltcd
butter butter and and boiled boiled potatoes potatoes are are often often served
served under under the the name name of of fillets fil lets of of fish fish d à
l'anglaise. l'anglaise. Filleb Fillels of of brill bril] il il la la cr6ole.
créole. FTLETS FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE A À r.l LA cnfot.e CRÉOLE Season Season
the the fillets fiUets with with salt salt and and paprika, paprika, lightly
lightly dredge dredge with with

150
BRILL BRILL

How to fillet brill. How First cut the fish lengthwise, First slide ide the knife
along then si detach the fillet the backbone to detach (Larousse) (Larousse)

halved tomatoes Garnish with halved flour and fry in butter or oil. Gamish cooked
in oil. Scoop out the centre of each and each half-tomato and (see PILAF). Add fill
with pilaf (see Add to to this Rice pilaf a spoonful of Rice spoonful of with a
gamish peeled and which have have been been garnish diced sweet pimentos which and
diced cooked in oil. Add a parsley to garlic and hot to the the hot and parsley
chopped garlic a tablespoon chopped pour oil in the pan, and pour pan, sprinkle the
fillets with lemon juice, and the oil over them just before before serving. Fillets
t'lNpENNe -DE BARBUE À A L'INDIENNE FILETs DE Filleb of brill brill curried. FILETS
Season an and put them them into an salt and pepper and Season the fillets with
salt (4 oz., g. (4 I cup) cup) 100 g. oz., 1 foundation of of 100 a foundation on a
ovenproof dish dish on chopped and seasoned seasoned fried in in butter, and has
been been fried chopped onion which has with garlic. Place 4 4 pounded garlic.
pinch of pounded and a a pinch curry powder and with curry peeled, and fish, and on
the the fish, peeled, seeded chopped tomatoes tomatoes on and chopped seeded and
moisten with (| pint, Add a a few few pint, } wine. Add white wine. cup) white with
I-!1| dl. dl. (! 3 cup) small pieces pieces of butter. Cook frequently. for 10 l0
minutes, minutes, basting basting frequently. in the oven for Cook in the oven Add
2 dl. in (] pint, Finish cooking cooking in pint, scant cream. Finish cup) thick
thick cream. dl. (t scant cup) the d l'indienne l'indienne with Rice Rice à Serve
with oven, still basting frequently. Serve the oven, (see (see RICE). Fillets rA,
or BARBUE sARnuE À A LA FILETs DE la Duxelles. Duxelle{L FILETS i la Fillets of of
brill brill à DUXELLES pepper, lightly lightly and pepper, with salt the fillets
fillets with salt and DUxELLEs -- Season Season the dredge and butter. butter. in a
a mixture mixture of of oil oil and and fry fry in with flour flour and dredge with
Place (q.v.) a duxelles &txelles (q.v.) a foundation foundation of of a dish on on
a Place on a serving serving dish on a bound (se SAUCE). with slices Garnish with
slices SAUCE). Gamish Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato bound with of pour
parsley, and and pour with chopped chopped parsley, peeled lemon, lemon, sprinkle
sprinkle with of peeled the fish. over the the fish. frying over left from from
frying hot butter butter left the hot Fillets RIcHELIEU -DE BARBUE BARBUE RICHELIEU
FILETS DE Fillets of of brin brill Richelieu. Richelieu. FILETS Dip in butter and
fry fry in butter and breadcrumbs in egg breadcrumbs and Dip the the fillets
fillets in egg and until of golden. Garnish with thin thin slices slices of Garnish
with are golden. until both both sides sides are truffies butter d'hiltel butter
Mattre d'hôtel of Maître trufles beated dabs of Put dabs heated in in butter.
butter. Put on (see BUTTER, Compound butters). butters). BUTTER, Compound on top
top (see Fillets rl Ds BARBUE SARBUE À A LA FILETS DE la toulonnaise. toulonnaise.
FILETS Fillets of of bril1 brill à i la TOULONNAISE pepper and and and pepper with
salt fillets with salt and TouLoNNAIsE -- Season Season the the fiUets dip sides
both sides Fry in in oil oil until until both dip them in egg and breadcrumbs.
breadcrumbs. Fry them in egg and are (see Tomato fondue golden. Arrange bed of of
thick thick Tomato a bed are golden. Arrange on on a fondue (see FONDUE) ion, has
has been been chopped on onion, with chopped FONDUE) which, which, together
together with cooked garlic. Surround with pinch of pounded garlic. Surround with
in oil; a pinch of pounded cooked in oil; add add a diced lemon on put thin of
lemon on and put thin slices slices of in oil, fried in oil, and diced aubergines
aubergines fried the hot oil. oil. of the a few few tablespoons the hot with a
tablespoons of the fillets. Sprinkle with fillets. Sprinkle FiJJets A LA rl or
BARBUE nlnsuE À FILETs DE la tyrolienne. tyrolienne. FILETS Fillets of of brill
britl à i la TYROLIENNE paprika, brush brush and paprika, with salt fillets with
salt and TvRoLIENNE -- Season Season the the fillets with Tomato a bed of Tomato
grill on heat. Arrange Arrange on on a bed of and grill low heat. with oil oil and
on low FONDUE) and cover with on ion rings which fondue (see (see which rings with
onion and cover FONDUE) fondue have in oil. have been been fried fried in oil.
v6noN -- Cut DE BARBUE BARBUE VÉRON Cut the the FILETs DE Fillets of brill V V6ron
Fillets éron. FILETS of brill pepper, dip and pepper, dip with salt salt and in
half half lengthways, lengthways, season season with fillets fillets in more with
more and breadcrumbs, sprinkle with in melted melted butter breadcrumbs, sprinkle
in butter and grill. Arrange a layer layer a low low grill. Arrange on on a cook
under melted melted butter and and cook under a (see SA when serving. serving. of
éron sauce UCE) when Viron SAUCE) of V sauce (see a in a A LA r,c, FLORENTINE
TToRENTINE -- Cook Cook in BARBUE À BriO Brill à la florentine. florentine. BARBUE
i la Drain, and and arrange arrange on on white wine wine stock. stock. Drain,
little little concentrated concentrated white cookd in in which has has been been
cooked a leaf spinach a foundation foundation of of leaf spinach which (se SAUCE),
sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle butter. with Mornay Mornay sauce butter. Cover
Cover with glazn. andglaze. grated cheese melted butter, with cheese and and melted
butter, and with grated very cooked in in white white wine; wine; very This is used
for fiUets fillets cooked This method method is used for fish, cooking whole whole
fish, little When cooking little liquid liquid should be used. used. When should be
and trim round all round remove after cooking, cooking and trim all remove the bone
aCter the central central bone before it on on the the spinach. arranging it
spinach. before arranging in milk, milk, Fried Clean small brill, soak soak in Frid
brill. BARBUE FRITE FRIrE -- Clean small brill, brin. BARBUE Drain, in very very
hot hot oil. lightly and deep-fry deep-fry in oil. Drain, lightly dredge with
flour, flour, and dredge with garnish with fried and gamish with fried dry with
fine fine salt, a cloth, cloth, season salt, and in a dry in season with parsley
parsley and lemon. and slices of lemon. slices of gratin. BARBUE as described Brill
cRATIN -- Proceed Proceed as described BARBUE AU AU GRATIN Brill au au gratin. (see
SOLE), gratin (see brill. in using small small brill. in the the recipe recipefor
for Sole SOLE), using Sole au au gratin Grilled few shallow cntrr6s -- Make Make aa
few shallow SA.RBUE GRILLÉE Grilled brill. brill. BARBUE pepper, brush incisions
and pepper, brush with salt season with salt and incisions on on the the brill,
brill, season with fresh grill on low heat. heat. Gamish Garnish with with fresh
and grill on low with oil oil or or butter butter and parsley on, and Maitre
d'hôtel d hitel and serve tvith Maître parsley and lemon, servewith and slices of
lem slices of (see BUTTER, butter any sauce butters) or or any sauce Compound
butters) BUTTER, Compound butter (see recommended grilled fish. fish. recommended
for for grilled Jellied LA garnishes. BARBUE BARBUE GLACÉE GLAcfE À ALA variors
garnishes. brill with witr various Jellied brill GELÉE based in aa little little
concentrated concentrated stock, stock, based curtn -- Cook Cook the the brill
brill in either nature of on the the nature of the the wine, depending depending on
red or white wine, either on on red or white dish. liquor. Dry Dry and and in its
its own own strained Allow it it to to cool cool in strained liquor. dish. Allow
jelly (see (see JELL trim Y). clarified jelly JELLY). coat it it with with
clarified and coat trim the the brill, brill, and (see Ali salmon (see garnishes
recommended for Cold Cold salmon recommended for All garnishes SALMON) applied to
to bril!. brill. SALMOI',D can can be be applied Brill Boneaa A LA u, MÂCONNAISE
UAcowNAISE - - Bone sARsuE À t la la mâconnaise. mf,connaise. BARBUE Brill à
medium-sized not to tearthe white skin. skin. to tear care not the white taking
care medium-sized brill, brill, taking Season, dry forcemeat mixed mixed with with
dry with fish and stuff flsh forcemeat Season, and stuff with duxelles (q.v.) and
parsley. chopped parsley. duxelles (q.v.) and chopped (M6con) Cook red (Mâcon) on
red fish stock stock based basedon in concentrated concentrated fish Cook in wine,
Brill àdla bourguignonne. recipefor for Brill la bourguignonne. in the the recipe
wine, as as described described in Drain dish. Surround Surround and arrange
arrangeon onaadish. Drain the the brill brill thoroughly thoroughly and with
havebeen been fried fried in in butter butterand and white cèpes cipes which which
have with small small:white seasoned asdescribed described with aasauce sauoeas
Cover with with small shallots.Cover seasoned with smallshallots. in Simmersmall
small Brill àd la bourguignonne.Simmer for Brill la bourguignonne. in the recipefor
the recipe artichokes (q.v.) of /a oftruffles trufles àrila fill with with
aasalpicon salpicon (q.v.) in butter, butter, fill artichokes in crème, place round
fish. roundthe the fish. andplace the top, top, and crirhe, brown brown the

151 l5l
BRILLAT-SAVARIN BRILLA T -SA VARIN
Brillàtla lamarinière. mariniCre. BARBUE BARBUE A r-,q umm$nr - prepare like Brill
À LA MARINIÈRE - Prepare like Brillin (see below). Garnish d la mariniire (see
inwhite whitewine wine(see Brill below). Garnish à la marinière (see GARNISHES) and
cover with Marinière Mariniiresauce sauce(see irr. GARNISHES) and coyer with
SAUCE). SAUCE). Brill àt la laménagère. m6nagire. BARBUE BARBUEÀ ALA rl MÉNAGÈRE
ufNlcins- -Season Seasonthe the Brill fish with withsalt pepper,and saltand and
pepper, placein andplace inan anovenproof ovenproof dish dishon on fish
foundationof chopped onions, ofchopped onions,lightly lightly fried friedin
inbutter butterand and aafoundation seasoned with pounded thyrne and bay leaf.
Moisten with red seasoned with pounded thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with red wine
and cook in a covered pan. and cook in a covered pan. wine When the the brill brill
is isready, ready,arrange arrangeon onaadish dishand andthicken thicken the the
When juices with kneaded butter. Bring to the boil, add a pan juices pan with
kneaded butter. Bring ta the boil, add a little fresh fresh butter, butter,and pour
over andpour overthe the fish. fish. little Brill Mornay. Mornay. BARBUE BARBUE
MORNAY MoRNAy - - Cook Cook flllets fillets of of brill brill in in Brill
concentrated fish fish stock stock and and arrange arrange on on aadish dish \ined
lined with with concentrated Mornay sauce (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Coyer
Cover with withsorne some of of the thesame same Mornay sprinkle with with aa
mixture mixture of grated Gruyère of grated Gruybreand and sauce, lauce, sprinkle
Parmesan cheese, cheese, add add melted melted butter, butter,and andbrown brownthe
thetop. top. Parmesan Brill with with muslU'ooms. mushrooms. BARBUE BARBUE AUX
Ar.rx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNS - - Cook Cook Brill the brillbrill - whole, whole, in
in fillets fillets or or cut cut in in pieces pieces -- in inaaconcentrated
concentrated the white wine fish fish stock. Drain thoroughly, stock. Drain
thoroughly, arrange arrangeon onaadish, dish, white wine garnish with and garnish
with mushrooms. mushrooms. Serve Serve with with White lAhite wine winesauce sauce
1 I and (see SAUCE), incorporating the liquor in which the fish (see SAUCE),
incorporating the liguor in which the fish was cooked. cooked. was Brill with with
mussels. mussels. BARBUE BARBT.TE AUX AUx MOULES MouLEs -- Cook Cook the the brill
brill BriU in a a \ittle little concentrated concentrated fish fish stock. stock.
Drain, Drain, arrange arrange on on a a dish, dish, in and surround surround with
with mussels mussels which which have have been been cooked cooked in in and white
wine. wine. Coyer Cover with with white white wine wine sauce, sauce, or or
Normande Normande white (ser-, SAUCE) which has incorporated the liquor in sauce
(see sauce SAUCE) which has incorporated the liguor in which the the fish fish and
and the mussels were the mussels were cooked. cooked. which Brill à i la la
normande. normande. BARBUE BARBUE À A LA Nonu,lNDE -- Cook u NORMANDE Cook the the
Brill in a brill in a little little concentrated concentrated fish fish stock.
Drain, arrange stock. Drain, arrange on on a a brill dish, and and surround
surround with garnish à with garnish (see GARNd la la normande normande (see
GARNdish, ISHES). Coyer Cover with with Normande Normande sauce (see SAUCE), sauce
(see SAUCE), to to ISHES). which has has been added the been added the boiled-down
boiled-down liguor liquor in in which which the the which fish was was cooked.
cooked. fish The method preparation known of preparation known as as à d la Ia
normande is is The method of also applied applied to plaice and sole. to turbot,
turbot, plaice so!e. also Brill oysters. BARBUE BARBUE AUX nux HUÎTRES nuirnns Cook
the the brill brill in in BriJl wtth with oysters. - Cook a little concentrated
white white wine wine fish stock. Drain, and garnish and garnish a little
concentrated with oysters. Add a white wine sauce to to the the Iiguor liquor with
poached poached oysters. Add a in brill and and the the oysters oysters were were
cooked, and and pour in which which the the brill over over the the fish. fish.
proceed as described Brill suR LE BARBUE SUR LE pr.lr PLAT Brill srr sur le le
plat. plat. BARBT.JE - Proceed in for Sole Ie plat in the the recipe recipe for
Sole sur le plat (see (see SOLE), using using small brill. Bri[ BriJJ n àh la
portugaise. portugaise. BARBUE BARBUE A À re LA ponrucArsr PORTUGAISE Proceed -
proceed as as described described in in the recipe for for Bass Bass d à la
portugaise portugaise (see (see BASS). BASS). BriU .Bass Brill n àh la provengale.
provençale. snnsuE BARBUE A À r.c, LA pRovBNgALE PROVENÇALE - As Bass d à la la
provengale provençale (see (see BASS). Brill BriJJ in in red red wine. wine. BARBUE
BARBUE AU AU vrN VIN Roucn ROUGE - Cook Cook the brill in a concentrated fish fish
stock based based on on red red wine. wine. Drain. Drain, a little little
concentrated and and arrange arrange on on a dish. dish. Make Make a a red red wine
sauce, incorporating incorporating the liquor liguor in which which the Thicken
with with kneaded kneaded butter. butter, or blend the fish fish was was cooked.
cooked. Thicken with with Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce based based on on fish
fish stock (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add a a little little butter, butter,
strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the brill. brill. Brin àh la russe.
russe. BARBUE BARBUE A À u, LA Russr RUSSE - As As described described in in the
the Brill t recipe Sole d à la la russe russe (see (see SOLE), SOLE), using using
medium medium brill. brill. recipe fot for Sole BriJJ in in scallop scaUop shells.
shells. coeurI,r,Es COQUILLES DE DE BARBUE BARBUE - pipe Pipe a - BriU border
border of of Duchess Duchess potato patata mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POT
ATOES) round round the the edges edges of ofscallop scallop shells. shells. Cover
Coyer the the centre centre of of the the shells shells with with Mornay Mornay
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), add add small small slices slices of of hot
hot brill, brill, and and cover coyer with with more more Mornay Mornay souce.
sauce. Scatter Scatter grated grated cheese cheese on on top, top, sprinkle
sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and brown brown the the top.
top. Brill Brill with with shrimpe. slU'imps. BARBUE BARBUE Aux AUX cREvErrss
CREVETTES - Cook Cook the the brill brill in fishfumet (q.v.).Drain, (g.v.). Drain,
and and garnish garnish the the inaa little little white white wine wine fishfumet
sides sides with with peeled peeled shrimps. shrimps. Boil Boil down down the the
liquor liguor in in which which the the brill brill was was cooked, cooked, add add
Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and and pour pour over overthe
thefish. fish.
152 t52
Parisian mushrooms (Plrol. Nicolas)

Brill strffedwith with salmon, with variorn garnishes. sauces BriU shrlfed salmon,
with various sauces and garnishes. and Cleana abrill weighing brillweighing about
22 kg. about kg. - Clean (4+lb.) lb.)and andslit slitititlengthwise lengthwisedown
down themiddle middle (41the on the dark the on dar-k side.Remove Removethe
thecentral centralbone bonethrough throughthis side. thisopening, opening,
takingcare carenot notto totear tearthe the whiteskin. skin. white taking
Season,and andstuff stuffthe thebrill brillwith witha acream cream forcemeatmade
forcemeat Season, made ofsalmon salmonand andtruffies. trufres.Lay Laythe thefish
of aa buttered fishin in butteredovenproof ovenproof dish,season, season,moisten
moistenwith (fpint, with44 pint,scant dl.(-idish, dl. cups) white scant22 cups)
white (q.v.)and winefish fish/rmet poachgently andpoach gentlyin wine fumet (g.v.)
oyen inthe the ovenwith withthe the lidon onthe thedish. dish. lid Whenthe thebrill
brillisiscooked, cooked, drain, drain,dry a acloth, arrange When dryin in cloth,and
and arrange juices,add onaadish. dish.Boil Boildown downthe thejuices, addto on and
tonormande normandesauce, sauce. and pourover overthe thefish. fish. pour All
methods methods of preparation given ofpreparation givenfor Ail forbrill brilland
andsole sole poached in inwhite whitewine winecan canbe beapplied poached appliedto
tothis thisdish, dish,for forwhich which thefollowing following garnishes garnishes
are aresuitable: the suitable:amiral, amiral,cancalaise, cancalaise, cardinal,
champenoise, champenoise,diplomate, diplomate, Nantua, cardinal, Nantua,normande,
normande, Polignac, Victoria. Victoria. Polignac, Stuffd briO brill with
garnishes.BARBUE withvarious various garnishes. Stuffed BARBT.JE FARCIE FARcTE-
-Bone Bone the brill brill as asdescribed described in in the the therecipe
recipefor forBrill Brillstuffed stuffedwith with salmon.Stuff Stuff with withFish
Fish forcemeat (seeFORCEMEAT). salmon. FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see Poachin
inaalittle littleconcentrated concentrated fish Poach fishstock. stock. Drainthe
thefish, fish,arrange arrange on Drain onaadish, dish,surround surroundwith withthe
thechosen chosen garnish, and pourover and pour garnish, overit it aasauce goes
weil sauce that thatgoes wellwith with the the garnish. garnish. All the the
methods methods given given for Ali iII in for Braised Braised br brill redor inred
orwhite whitewine wine can be applied to be applied can to stuffed stuffed brill.
brill. Brill àI vénitienne. v6nitienne. BARBUE BriJJ BARBUE À A LA u VÉNITIENNE
vENTTTENNE - - As AsSole Soleàdla Ia (see SOLE). vinitienne (see vénitienne SOLE).
Briil àn la h Victoria. Victoria. BARBUE BriJJ BARBUI À A LA r,c.VICTORIA vrcronrn
- - Cook Cook the thebrill brill as described describedfor as for Brill Brill in in
white (s* below). white wine wine (see below). Drain, Drain, arrange on arrange on
aa dish, dish, and garnish with and garnish with aa salpicon (q.v.) of salpicon
(g.v.) of the the (U.S. crayfish) flesh of flesh of spiny spiny lobster lobster
(U.S. crayfish) and and truffies. truffies. Coyer eover with with Victoria sauce
(se SAUCE). Victoria sauce (see SAUCE). Glaze Glaze in in the the oyen. oven. Brill
Brill in in white white wine. wine. BARBUE BARBUE AU AU vIN vrN BLANC BLANc --
Season Season the the brill brill place in and place and in a a buttered pan with
buttered pan with a a thinly thinly sliced sliced onion onion and and aa garni
(g.v.). (q.v.). Moisten bouquet garni bouquet Moisten with with aa few few
tablespoons tablespoons white white wine, or wine. or with with concentrated
concentrated fish fish stock stock based based on on white white wine wine and
boiled and boiled down down to to the the consistency consistency of (q.v.). Cook
of a a fumet Cook fumet (g.v.). on low heat on low heat with with the lid on the
lid pan. on the the pan. Drain Drain the the brill, brill, arrange arrange on on a
a dish, dish, and and coyer cover with with White White (see SA wine sauce (see
UCE), using SAUCE), using as as a a basis basis the liquor in the liguor in which
which the fish fish was was cooked. cooked. The The brill brill can can be be
served served as as it it is, glazed is, or or glazed quickly in guickly in a a
very very hot hot oyen oven or or under grill. under a a hot hot grill.
BARBUE SAUMoNEE BARBUE SAUMONÉE -

Jean Anthelme Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin

Paris in in 1826. 1826. Paris He started started his his career career as as a a
lawyer lawyer at at the the Court Court of of Belley, Belley, He deputy of of the
the National National Assembly Assembly in in 1789, 1789, was was made made became
deputy became mayor and and commander commander of of the the National National
Guard Guard of of Belley Belley in in mayor

politician and and gastronome, gastronome, born born at at Belley Belley in in l?

55, 1755, died died in in politician

BRILLAT-SAV AR IN (Jean (Jean Anthelme) Anthelme) - French magistrate, BRILLAT-

SAVARIN - French magistrare,
v'
4v
BRIOCHE BRIOCHE
1793, 1793, was was banished banished during during the the Reign Reign of Terror,
Terror, fled fled to Switzerland, then then spent spent three three years as a
refugee refugee in America. America. Switzerland, He returned to to France in
September,1797, September, 1797, had his name name He returned removed removed from
from the the list list of imigris, émigrés, became became first first a a
commissioner to the the army in Germany Germany under Augereau, then missioner
commissioner at the court of the ddpartement département of Seine-etcommissioner
member of of the Supreme Supreme Court of of Appeal. Appeal. Oise, then th en
member Oise, subjects He published various pamphlets, political and on subjects of
law, law, but but his lasting lasting fame rests rests on a gastronomical
gastronomical work on of which was published which he had long been engaged, and
which goût. shortly before his death, la Physiologie du goftt.

(Method of preparing meat) - Lamb Lamb BRILLAT-SAVARIN (Method and mutton mutton
noisettes, noisettes, with with a a garnish gamish of duchess duchess potato and
(q.v.), filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of foie foie
gras, cassolettes (q.v.), truffies, and green green asparagus tips tips in in
butter. Also Aiso the name of of a trufles, Normandy (see page page 210). 210).
cheese made in Normandy BRINDE - Old French word for a two-handled wine-cup. BRINDE
to which which is is often sea salt, salt, to BRINE. SAUMURE Solution of sea
sAUMURE - Solution added sugar, sugar, saltpetre and and aromatics. Preserving
mixture added for foodstuffs. LIQUIDE Liquid brine. SAUMURE s^q.uuuRE LIeUIDE - For
pickled tongues and (4t quarts, 5t quarts) pressed beef. Boil in a large pan 5
litres (4} pressed (ll oz., g. (II l] cups) brown 2t ke.(5 kg. (5 lb.) rock salt,
oz., It salt, 300 g. water, 2I juniper (5 oz.) peppercorns, 15 15 juniper sugar,
150 g. (5 15 peppercorns, 150 g. oz.) saltpetre, 15 sugar, berries, a a sprig of
thyme and a bay leaf. leaf. Boil for for 25 25 minutes berries,
and leave to cool. Prick the tongues, and place and saltpetre, saltpetre, and Prick
tongues, rub with salt salt and in Pour in in the brine, and coyer cover the the
receptacle in a a receptacle. Pour brine, and wood, pressing it weil with a well
down down on on the the a piece of smooth wood, tongues. Keep in a place for for
six in summer, six days in summer, eight tongues. a cool 'place in ter. in win
winter. Full pickle for cRANDE SAUMURE SAUMUR-E for various various meats. meats.
GRANDE Full brine pickle (5t gallons, Pour gallons, 7 gallons) water into a a large
water into 7 gallons) litres (51 Pour 25 25 litres

salt, l+ l2l ke. add12·i copper vessel vessel and and add kg. Q7i (27} lb.) lb.)
rock rock salt, 11 kg. kg. sugar. cups) brown (3 (3 lb.) lb.) saltpetre and and 800
800 g. g. (li (lî lb., lb., 3+ 3-t cups) brown sugar. Bring to the boil on a a
strong heat. peeled potato into a peeled To test test the density of the brine,
brine, put put a potato into and is too of salt is it. If If the potato potato
floats, the proportion proportion of too high high and to the sinks to if the the
potato more should be more water water should be added; added; if potato sinks
potato the potato down until bottom, bot tom, the the liquid liquid should be be
boiled boiled down until the remove the the is suspended in the middle. When this
is achieved, remove and leave to cool. brine from the heat and which with a a long
Prick the meat to to be be preserved with long needle which place in in a a and
place with saltpetre saltpetre and in salt salt mixed with has been rubbed in
grille at for the at the bottom for a grille the bottom brine which should have a
brine tub, which quite cold. it is is quite when in the the brine brine wh meat
stand on. on. Pour meat to to stand Pour in en it 4 to meat weighs 4 if the the
meat least 8 8 days days if at least Leave to pickle Leave to pickle for at into
inject (81 to are used, used, in If larger cuts are lb.). If kg. (8t to I IlI lb.).
ject brine into 5 kg. a special pump. the meat with a
yeast dough, usually in in the from yeast made from BRIOCHE BRIOCHE - Cake made as
a pressed into into the a the top top as a sm ball pressed a bail smaller ball with
a shape of a aller bail 'head'. yeast until until the with baker's yeast Brioches
were were made in Paris Paris with made in Brioches yeast, which had had eighteenth
century. Brewer's yeast, middle of the eighteenth was Austria, was and Austria, in
Poland Poland and for a a long long time time in in use use for been been in when
the of court of the court Lorraine when and Lorraine into Alsace Alsace and
introduced into introduced of The brioches Lun6ville. The brioches of to Lunéville.
King Stanislas was transferred to were centres, were marketing centres, great
butter butter marketing and Gournay, Gournay, great Gisors and Gisors brioches: for
Gisors gives a a recipe for Sansvoisin gives famous. famous. Sansvoisin Make a a
baking. Make night before before baking. 'The dough is made made the the night
dough is 'The g. 250 g. (lf Mix 250 and 7 7 eggs. eggs. Mix cups) flour and g. (1
lb., 7 7 cups) 750 g. dough of 750 i lb., (1 oz.) yeast. Mix with the the g. (t Mix
with oz.) yeast. (9 oz., 10 g. with 10 cups) flour with (9 21 cups) o2.2* Keep g.
(lt butter. Keep cups) butter. 1b.,3+ with 750 750 g. dough, (Ii lb., 3-!- cups)
dough, together with in a a bowl. the dough in just before 'When ready into
brioches brioches just shape into for baking, baking, shape ready for 'When in the
the oven.' oven.' them in putting them given under heading are given under the the
heading Various brioche doughs are brioche doughs Various

Brioches Brioches
(ScamGfi) (Scarnati)

153 153
Cauliflower Cauliflower à polonaise (Phol. (Phot. Nicolas) i la /a polonaise
Nicolas)
BRIOLET BRIO LET
DOUGH. For For the preparation of the preparation various hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre
and and of various DOUGH. (See small hot hot entrée entrie dishes, dishes, a a
standard standard brioche brioche is is made. made. (See small BRIOCHE DOUGH DOUGH
1 I aod and II.) II.) BRIOCHE pAm À Standard brioche brioche dough. dough. PÂTE I
BRIOCHE BRrocHE COMMUNE coMMUNE -Standard Proceed as as described described in in
the (see recipe for the recipe for Brioche Brioche dough dough (see Proceed DOUGH).
DOUGH). pArs À Dough for for brioche brioche mousseline. mousseline. PÂTE A BRIOCHE
BRrocrrE MOUSSELINE MoussELrNE Dough (see DOUGH), Make a a Brioche Brioche dough
dough (see (14 oz., DOUGH), using g. (14 using 400 4ffi g. oz., -- Make (18 oz.,
lf, cups) g. (18 cups) butter and 500 butter and 500 g. 4t cups) cups) fioUL g.
oz., 41 flour. Add Add 60 60 g. là(2| oz., o2.,5 tablespoons) softened (l lb.) g.
(1 softened butter butter to to each each 500 lb.) 500 g. (21 5 tablespoons) dough.
dough.

::':::

Brioche mousseline Brioche mousseline

Fruit briochin. briochin. BRIOCHIN BRrocHrN AUX Fruit Aux FRUITS FRUrrs -- Line
Line a aflan flan ring ring with with firm brioche brioche dough, dough, adding
adding aa layer (q.v.). firm layer of frangipane (q.v.). of frangipane Steep sliced
Steep sliced or or diced diced fruit fruit in in liqueur, liqueur, place place on
on the frangipane, the frangipane, and cover cover with and with brioche brioche
dough. dough. Leave Leave to rise for for an to rise an hour, hour, brush with with
beaten beaten egg, brush egg, and and bake bake in in a a fairly fairly hot hot
oven. oven.

en couronne couronne Brioche en

en couronne Roll brioche dough dough into into a a round round Brioche en - Roll
place on loaf, place on a a baking baking sheet sheet in in the the shape shape of
a crown, of a crown, and loaf, and a few light incisions on on the surface. Brush
Brush with with beaten make a egg and and bake bake in in a a moderate oven. egg

Brioche à ti tête t0te

Brioche Goubard Brioche Goubard

Brioche Goubard Goubaud - Line a buttered cake tin with brioche dough. dough. Roll
Roll out out another another piece piece of dough, pieces, dough, cut cut into
pieces, moulding them them into little little pies. pies. Stuff them them with a
salpicon with a (q.v.) of preserved preserved fruit which which has has been
steeped steeped in rum rum or liqueur. liq ueur. Fill Fi]] the cake tin with the
pies, leave to rise in a warm place, place, brush with beaten egg egg and bake.
bake. When removed from the the oven, brush brusb the pie-tops with diluted apricot
apricot jam. Brioche mousseline mousseline - This is baked baked in a tall mould,
mould, further heightened heigh tened by by buttered greaseproofpaper greaseproof
paper tied tied round round top. Butter and three-parts fill it with Mousseline
Mousseline Butter the mould and brioche brioche dough dough (see DOUGH). Leave to
rise and and bake in a moderate moderate oven. oven. Cheese BRIOCHE AU AU FRoMAGn
FROMAGE - Dice Dice or or grate Cheese brioche. brioche. BRrocr{E 250 250 g. g. (9
(9 oz.) Gruydre Gruyère cheese, cheese, and knead into 2 kg. kg. (+| (41 lb.)
ordinary ordinary dough. dough. Leave Leave to to rise, rise, and bake bake in in a
buttered mould. mould. Filled. à la boh6mienne. bohémienne. snlocHEs BRIOCHES
cARNrEs GARNIES A À LA Filled. brioches brioches I BoH6MIENI.IE BOHÉMIENNE - Small
brioches, brioches, three-quarters three-quarters scooped scooped out and and
filled filled with with various various mixtures: mixtures: mousses, mousses,
pur6es, purées, salpicons, salpicons, etc. etc.
Large Large brioche brioche à i tête. t6te. GROSSE cRossE BRIOCHE A TÊTE r0rs --
Roll BRrocHE À Roll a a piece of brioche dough piece into a place in dough into a
baIl in a ball and and place a buttered buttered mould. Make a a hole hole in in
the the dough dough and into it it a and put into a small small ball ball of the
dough, tapered point. Make a a point. tapered to a a few few light light incisions
incisions on on the the surface of the dough, dough, brush brush with beaten egg
egg and and bake bake in a a hot oven. pETrrEs BRIOCHES SmaII Small brioches.
brioches. PETITFS BRrocHEs -- Bake Bake in in small small fluted fluted moulds in
the the same as Large brioche à same way as t€te. d tête. BRIOLET Slang word word
synonymous with with another another slang slang - Slang word, piquette (i.e.,
(i.e., wine of poor quality). quality). An An allusion allusion to to a a Brie wine
which is is rather mediocre. BRIOU BRIOLI (Corsican cookery) prepared in meal,
prepared in - Chestnut meal, the same way as as polenta, with the addition of milk
or cream. cream. BRIONNE BRIONI\E Name for for chayote, chayote, a a vegetable
vegetable of of the the - Name Cucurbitaceae Cucur bit aceae family. famrly. (See
CHAYOTE.) CHAYOTE.) BRISSE (Baron) BRISSE Author of of culinary culinary works
which whic-h were oot not @aron) - Author always accurate. always accurate. His
books include la la Cuisine Cuisine à d l'usage l'usage des des ménages bourgeois
bourgeois et des petits ménages, la Pettte Petite cuisine minages et des cuisine du
du mdnages,la 366 menus, ail published in the baron Brfsse Biisse and and,366
menus,all the latter latter part of of the nineteenth ceotury. bad a tic style,
century. He had high-flown roman romantic a high-flown style, speaking of of
turkeys 'in blossom', aod speaking and is is remembered remembered for for his his
curiosity value value rather rather than for gastronomy. curiosity INTERNATIONAL
COOKERY. COOKERY. BRITAIN - See See INTERNATIONAL BRITAIN

154 t54
BRITTAbIY BRITTANY

A Breton Breton farmhouse farmhouse (Fren (French Governmen/ Tourist Touris/ Ofice)
Office) A ch Government

Sampling Sampling the the culinary culinary specialities specialities of of

Brittany Brittany (French (French Government Governmen/ Tourist Touris/ Ofice)
Office)

BRITTANY. BRETAcNE BRETAGNE - Choice food products products are found BRITTAhIY. in
abundance in Brittany, whether they originate in the the sea sea or on land.
Excellent sheep (notably 'salt-meadow' 'salt-meadow' sheep)
ca ttle are raised. and cattle Breton larder is is well weil stocked with all ail
sorts of foods The Breton and all ail of first-class quality. Let Let us us grve
give a rapid survey of and these. these. oysters, Among the seafoods are are
Cancale and Morbihan oysters, and oysters found found in in the the rivers rivers
Auray Auray and and Belon; clams, clams, and oysters cockles, winkles, onners,
ormers, haliotes, spiny lobsters, lobsters, scallops, winkles, cockles, scallops,
conger eels (which are cra bs, shrimps, eels (which sardines, conger Lorient
sardines, crabs, shrimps, Lorient made into cotriade, cotiade, so popular with the
Breton fishermen), made soles, soles, turbot, brill, plaice, mackerel, herrings,
tunny. The ri vers produce pike, carp, trout, eels, the Odet eels, shad; the rivers
good quality; and is of good Meat is famous. Meat are famous. and Aulne Aulne
salmon salmon are mutton and pork are are excellent.

Among Among the poultryparticular poultry-particular mention mention should be be

made made of of ducklings and succulent succulent young young turkeys. Ground
Ground the Nantes ducklings and winged game are famous. Roscoff Roscoff
cauliflowers cauliflowers and and artichokes artichokes are are sent sent to to the
the markets markets of London London and and Paris. Paris. Breton potatoes potatoes
must must be be mentioned, mentioned, and and Plougastel Plougastel strawberries
strawberries and and apples apples are are noteworthy. noteworthy. Cider is the
usual drink BeveragesBeverages - Cider drink of of the Bretons. Among Among are
those the famous famous growths growths are those of of Pleudihen, Pleudihen,
Fouesnant, the Saint-F6r6ou. Clohars and Saint-Féréou. dry white The Loire-
Atlantique The Loire-Atlantique produces an an excellent excellent dry white young:
the The name drunk young: wine, best the Muscadet. Muscadet. The wine, best drunk a
variety of of vine, the 'Muscadet' is is the local appellation for for a the
Burgundy introduced into was introduced 'melon', that was into Brittany from from
Burgundy are two Muscadets, that in the the seventeenth century. There are in that
the Loire. and that of the banks of the of Sèvres-et-Maine Sdvres-et-Maine and

NOR. MANDY

st FrNlsTt

COTES - DU:

ffii
ATLANTIC ATLANTIC OCEA
~ Vineyards
Brittany mapof of Brittany Gastronomie Gastronomic map 155 155

;;,,H';ilt"
blonc. Flit cakes. 6urlli

-#i("fr'"{
'gg'
BROCCIO BROCCIO
The region of of Nantes Nantes also producesaaV.D.Q.S., alsoproduces V.D.e.S., the
thebest best The region of the wines, very dry with withaa hint hintof ofacidity
acidity which whichis is much much of the wines, very dry appreciated
byconnoisseurs. connoisseurs. It It is isan anexcellent excellent
accompaniaccompaniappreciated by ment for fish and shellfish. ment for fish and
shellfish. Culinary specialities specialities - The The best best known known are
areCornouaille Cornouaille Culinary
2.A A mixture mixture of vegetables, such ofvegetables. such as ascarrOIs, carrots,
onions, onions, Ieeks, leeks, 2. celeryand and sometimes sometimes turnips
turnipsslowly slowly cooked in butter. cooked in This butter.This celery sort of of
brunoise brunoiseis is used usedfor for making making soups soupsor or as
asaasupplesupplesort mentaryelement element for for certain certain forcemcats,
forcemeats, sauces and sauces and mentary (q.v.). salpicons (q.v.). salpicons 3. A
A mixture mixture of of vegetables vegetables eut cut into into small dice which
which is is small dice 3. an aromatic used as as an aromatic element element for
for crayfish crayfish and and other other dishes. dishes. used (SeeCRAYF1SH,
CRAYFISH, TRUFFLES.) TRUFFLES.) (See

buckwheat and bacon soup; cotriade - the soup of the Breton buckwheat and bacon
.lOUp; cotrinde - the soup of the Breton fishermen similar similar to (q.v.) of to
the the chaudrée chaudrCe (q.v.) of the the Aunis Aunis sailors; sailors; fishermen
Morlaix Hams; liams; Ancenis Ancenis andouilles andouilles and andsausages,
sausages, large large Morlaix anQuil!9s de de Bretagne; excellent black puddings;
euimperl6 andouilles Bretagne; excellent black puddings; Quimperlé andouilletes;
pike pike au an beurre beurre blanc; blanc; shad shad à d la la crème; crdme;
Nantes Nintes andouille/es; bacon; roast leg of of salt-meadow salt-meadow lamb
lamb with with beans beansca called,d Ia bacon; roast leg lied 'à fa br e tonne' ;
buckwhe at g ir dle cak es and pancakes ; euimperlO bretonne'; buckwheal
girdlecakes and pancakes; Quimperlé oat loaf loaf à d la la crème; uime; Quimper
pancakes; Morlaix Morlaix brioches; brioches; Quimper pancakes; oal Lorient and and
Quimper cakes; Ren (a kind Rennes mingaux (a kind of of Quimper cakes; Lorient nes
mingaux cream cheese cheese similar similar to to the the Saumur Saumur crémets);
crimets); Nantes Nantes fiai /al cream guillarets; biscuits. cakes and and
guillarels; biscaits. cakes BROCCIO See CHEESE. BROCCIO -- See CHEESE.

BROCCOU. cgor.x BROCOLIS BRocoLF - The The flower flower heads heads whieh which
BROC COLI. CHOUX develop in in the the leafaxils leaf axils are are eaten eaten
before before they grown. they are are fully fully grown. develop They are also
called broccoli tips. All methods of preparation They are aJso caUed broccoli tips.
Ail methods ofpreparalion given for cauliflower cauliflower apply apply to to
broccoli. broccoli. given for The fiower in this flower in this type type of
cabbage is generally very of cabbage is generally very smal!. small. The Broccoli
is is also also eaten for its eaten for its leaves leaves as as weil well as as its
its fiowers. flowers. Broccoli BROCKET. DAGUET DAcuEr - The The na name given to
young stag, to a a young stag, BROCKET. me given year and between one one year and
eighteen eighteen months months old. The French old. The French between name dague/
daguet comes comes from from dague, dague, dagger, dagger, and and refers refen to
to the the name young stag's shape of of the the young stag's horns. horns. shape
In cookery, ail all recipes recipes for (q.v.) are for roebuck roebuck (q.v.) are
suitable suitable for for ln cookery, brocket. brocket. BROOKLIME. sscclBuNcA -
This plant is This plant is also also called called BROOKLIME. BECCABUNGA water
pimpernel. is a a kind kind of of European European cress cress which water
pimpernel. It is which grows wild on the banks of streams and ponds. grows wild on
the banks of streams and ponds. It is eaten in salads like like watercress
watercress and and can Il is eaten in salads can be be prepared prepared in all the
(see CRESS). suitable for in ail the ways ways suitable for the the latter latter
(see CRESS). It as a salad. 11 is is ordinarily ordinarily used used as a condiment
condiment for for salad. BROUILLY Famous BROUILLY - Famous red red Beaujolais
Beaujolais wine. wine.

Vegetable brunoise brunoise for for soups. soups. DRUNOlSE BRUNoTSE DE or LÉGUMES
rEcurr,ms Vegetable Cut the the following following into into dice dice about about
3 3 mm. mm. - Cut ($ inch) inch) across: across: 3 (150 g., 3 small small carrots
carrots (150 g., 5 5 oz.), oz.), 1 small turnip turnip (! I small (100 g g., (75
g., 4 oz.), oz.),2 leeks (75 (25 g., oz.),1 g., very small small onion onion (25
(IOO .. 4 2 leeks 3 oz.), 1 very 8.,3 I oz.) oz.) and and 2 2 stalks (50 g., stalks
wbite white celery celery (50 g., 2 2 oz.). oz.). Season Season these these 1
vegetables wi with pinch of salt and and a a pinch fine sugar of fine sugar and and
simmer simmer vegetables th salt them in in a a covered pan on covered pan (2 oz.,
low heat on a a low g. (2 heat with with 50 50 g. oz.,* cup) them ! cup) butter.
When When they they are are nicely nicely softened (| pint, add 2 2 dl. pint,
softened add dl. (1 butter. scant cup) cup) stock stock and and leave leave to to
cook cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. At At the the seant last moment, add add
a a tablespoon tablespoon cooked garden peas cooked garden peas and and a a la st
moment, tablespoon diced diced French French string string beans. beans. tablespoon
Add 2 2 or or 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons of of trus this mixture to (scant to
every every litre litre (seant Add quart, generous generous quart) quart) soup.
soup. quart,
POUR POTAGES -

porJR porAGEs

prNcBAU Kitchen tool consisting of hair or bristle BRUSH. PINCEAU BRUSH. -- Kitchen
tool consisting of or attached toa to ahandleused forbrushingwith meltedbutter
or.oil 3ttached handleused for brushingwith melted butter or oil various articles
articles intended intended for grilling. for grilling. various The brush is also
brush is also used pastry-making, for used in in pastry-making, for buttering
buttering The baking tins tins and and other other utensils, utensils, and and for
brushing the the tops tops of of baking pastries wi with beaten egg. pastries th
bea ten egg.

lt

BROUTES BROUTE..') or or BROUTONS BROUTONS @6arn (Béarn cookery) cookery) - Old Old
cabbage cabbage shoots, shoots, served served mainly mainly during during Lent.
Lent. Trim and wash the cabbage and Trim and wash the cabbage and cook cook in in
salted salted water. water. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Season Season with with
oil oil and and vinegar. vinegar. In ln some sorne villages villages in in the the
Basses-Pyr6ndei Basses-Pyrénées a a mixture mixture of of leeks leeks and and white
white cabbage, cabbage, cooked cooked together, together, drained, drained, pressed
pressed and and pieces, is also called broutes. cut into cut into pieces, is also
called broutes. Meal Meal prepared prepared from from white white or or (corn)
roasted roasted maize maize (corn) flour. fiOUL 'If 'If white, white, that that is
is to to say say unroasted, unroasted, flour fiour is is used, used, make make the
the broye hraye u as an an ordinary ordinary bouilli. bouilli. Bring Bring some
some vegetable vegelable stock stock or or simply simply salted saited water water
to to the the boil boil and and little little by by little littie add add the the
flour flour until uni il a a paste paste of of a a fairly fairly firm firm
consistency consistency is is obtained. obtained. 'When 'When the the bouilli
bouilli is is cooked, cooked, and and it it should should be be stirred stirred all
ail the time during cooking it is served with a ladle, which the lime during
cooking, it is served with a lad le, which should be dipped in fat prevent to
should be dipped in fat to prevent the the bouilli bouilli sticking sticking to to
it. il. 'Ifroasted 'Jf roastcd flour fiour is is used used (troustado (IrouS/ado or
or tourrado, lourrado, as as they they say say in B6arn), you make a in Béarn), you
make a well weil out out of ofit, it, moisten moisten with with the the liquid
liquid indicated, blend well and proceed to cook. indicated, blend weU and proceed
to cook. 'Cold broye can be cut into 'Co Id broye can be cut into slices sliccs and
and fried fried in in sizzling sizzling fat fal golden.' (From until until golden.'
(From Ia la Cuisine Cuisine m en Biarn, Béarn, by by Simin Simin Palay.) Palay.)
BRUGNON BRUGNON - A A French French name name for for nectarine nectarine or or
smoothsmoolhpeach. skinned skinned peach. For For methods methods of ofpreparation,
preparation, see see PEACH. PEACH.
(B6arn BROYE BROYE (Béarn cookery) cookery)

BRUNOISE BRUNOISE-- This This word word has
meanings: meanings: l. 1. A A method method
vegetables very very finely. finely. (Thus,
carrots, leeks, celery, into a people speak
inlo a brunoise.) All these ingredients are
these ingredients arc then cooked in butter
some other fat. sorne other fal.
156 156
has the the following following
of of shredding shredding vegetables
(Thus, people speak of shredding
of sbredding carroIs, leeks, celery,
then cooked in butter or brunoise.) Ali
or

BRUSSEI-S SPROUTS, SPROUTS. CHOUX cHoux DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES BRUSSElS - The

buds which develop develop in in Ihe the Ieafaxils leaf axils are are ealen eaten
between October which and the the end end of of March. March. and Boiled Brussels
Brussels sprouts. sprouts. CHOUX cHolrx DE BRuxELLEs A Boiled DE BRUXELLES À
L'ANcLArsE - Trinl Trim the sprouts, which L'ANGLAISE the sprouts, which means
means removing removing outer leaves which outer leaves which are either too hard
hard or too withered, and cutting the of each sproul. sprout. Wash them well.
cutting the base base of weil. Cook sprouts in salted water and drain. drain. Cook
the the sprouts in boiling boiling salted water and Serve fresh butter Serve fresh
butter separately. separately. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts with with cream.
cream. cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUxELLTs BRUXELLES A À LA cntMe cook the sprouts in
salted boiling water, drain Half cook CRÈME - Half well, weIl, and and simmer
simmer in in butter. butter. Cover Cover with boiling hoiling fresh cream cream to
which which butter butter has has been been added. added. The The sprouts sprouts
can can also also be be moistened moistencd with with a a Creon Creœn sauce sauce
(ser., (see SAUCE) SAUCE) instead instead of cream. cream. Brussels Brussels
sprouts sprouts il I'indienne. l'indienne. cno(rx CHOUX DE DE BRUxELrrs BRUXELLES A
À L'INDIENNE L'INDIENNE - Simmer Simmer the the sprouts in in butter butter and and
moisten moisten with with a a curry curry sauce. sauce. Surround Surround with with
a border border of rice riee cooked cooked the the Indian lndian way way (see (see
RICE). RICE). Brusseb Brussels sprouts sprout~ in gfavy. gravy. cHolrx CHOUX DE DE
BRUXELLES BRUXELLES AU AU JUs JUS Simmer Sim mer the the sprouts sprouts in in
butter butter until unril cooked, cooked, then then add add a a few few tablespoons
tablespoons rich rich veal veal stock. stock. Cook Cook a a little little longer
longer so so that that the the sprouts sprouts can can get get well weil soaked
soaked in in the the gravy. gravy. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts iil la la
milanaise. milanaise, cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUxELLTs BRUXELLES A À LA MILANATSE-Boil
MILANAISE - Boil the the sprouts sprouts and and drain drain them them well. weIl.
Heap Heap them them on on a a buttered buttered dish dish which which has has been
been sprinkled sprinkled with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle
with with more more grated grated cheese, cheese, pour pour melted melted butter
butter over over the the sprouts, sprouts, and and brown brown in in the the oven.
oyen. Serve Serve with with Noisette Noisel/e butter bul/er (see (see BUTTER,
BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Brussels Brussels sprouts sprollts
Mornay. Mornay. cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES MoRNAy MORNAY This This is is
prepared prepared in in the the same sa me way way as as Cauliflower Cauliflower
Mornay Mornay (see (see CAULIFLOWER) CAULIFLOWER) with wilh the the sprouts sprouts
heaped heaped on on a a gratin gratin dish. dish. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts
il la la polonaise. polonaise, cnoux CHOUX on DE nnuxnrrEs BR UXELLES A À poLoNAIsn
- Prepare LA LA POLONAISE Prepare like like Cauliflower Cauliflower a a la
lapolonaise polonaise (see (see CAULIFLOWER). CA ULIFLOWER). Brussels Brussels
sproub sprouts pur6e. purée. punnE PURÉE DE DE cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRTTxELLES
BRUXELLES Prepare Prepare with with blanched blanched Brussels Brussels sprouts
sprouts simmered simmered in in butter, butter, in inthe thesameway same wayas
asCauliflower Cauliflowerpurie(see purée (seeCAULIFLOWER). CAULIFLOWER). Brussels
Brussels sproub sprouts salrd" salad.. seuoE SALADE DE DE cHor.x CHOUX DE DE
BR{txELLEs BRUXELLES -

-
BUFFET BUFFET
NoIR BUCKWHEAT. BLÉ nr6 NOIR BUCKWHEAT. - Variety of Saracen corn. DE SARRASIN,
garnish). GRUAU cnueu DE sorry garnish). Buckwheat (Russian @ussian soup (l+ 7 or
or 8 8 dl. dl. (1 to 7 I kg. ke. (2* sl-f NOIR Non. Add 1 buckwheat to * BLÉ Q*
lb.) buckwheat - Add a smooth work to to a water and and work pints, l| salted wann
water t pints) pints) salted pints, 1 oven for 2 hours. in hot oyen a deep pan;
bake in paste. Press into a the surface, surface, and has fonned formed on on the
which has Remove the crust which touching mixture into a pan without touching
tumout the buckwheat buckwheat mixture turnout bottom and on the sides of the crust
which has formed at the bottom the dish. (4 oz., g. (4 cup) butter, butter, and
with 100 100 g. oz., t dough with Work the the dough * cup) (f inch) thick. Leave
to cm. (t a slab until it is 2 cm. spread out on a cool under a weight. pastry-
crttter and and brown brown these a pastry-clltter with a into biscuits eut Cut
into biscuits with is made made of the the crusts use is with broth. broth. No use
with butter. butter. Serve with left in the dish. See KASHA. Buckwheat kasha - See

Festive Festive buffet, 1785 1785

Boil the Boil the sprouts, drain weil, well, and and arrange arrange in in a a
salad salad bowl. Season Season with pepper. Sprinkle with oil, vinegar, salt oil,
vinegar, and pepper. salt and Sprinkle with chopped chervil or with salad herbs.
Brussels sprouts sprouts sautéed saut6ed in butter. CHOUX cHoux DE in butter. DE
BRUXELLES BRUxELLEs SAUTÉS lightly slurfs AU BEURRE BEURRE Saut6lightly - Boil and
drain the sprouts. Sauté in butter they are in butter until until they are brown.
brown. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley.

which is is family which BUTFALO. BUFFLE -- Member Member of of the the ox ox

family BUFFALO. World. Buffaloes found in hot, swampy swampy countries of the Old
WorId. are domesticated in in Italy Italy and and Asia. Asia. The American American
buffalo, are is much larger than the the Asiatic more properly called called bison,
is flesh of The ftesh buffalo. This This animal animal is is fast fast becoming
extinct. extinct. The of buffalo. prepared in any any manner Italian buffaloes can
be prepared and Italian Asiatic and suitable beef (q.v.). suitable for beef(q.v.).
large The word means a a large word buffet buffet means BLTFFET (Restaurant) BUFFET
@estaurant) - The of a a restaurant, on on near the the entrance entrance of tiered
tiered table table often often set set near and pastries fish, co cold which dishes
of meats, poultry, fish, Id sweets sweets and a large large manner. The The buffet
buffet of of a are are arranged in in a a decorative decorative manner. choice
edibles. edibles. restaurant is, is, in in fact, fact, a a show show of of choice
in or near a a ballor near foods set set in ballLarge tables play of a dis display
of foods tables with a a The food food is is dispensed by a room room are are also
also called called buffets. dispensed by buffets. The guests come come to the table
table to to be be served served with buùer butler and and the the guests to the
pastries, and drinks; or or to and various drinks; sandwiches, sandwiches, cold
cold meats, pastries, in cups. Buffets of of this type are are also also have
consommé consomm6 served cups. Buffets this type served in arranged arranged for
wedding lunches. lunches.

(A LA) BRUXELLOISE (À LA) pieces of Garnish for for pieces of meat, - Garnish small
or large, large, composed composed of Brussels sprouts sprouts and and pommes
château. chArcau. BUCCAN. BOUCAN BoucAN - Place where Indians cured their meat. The
pplies to The word grid on word also also a applies to the actual grid the actual
which the on which smoking was done.

Buffet (Arts décoratifs) Bufet at at Marly, Marly, 1859 1859 (Arts ddcoratif$

157 r57
BUFFET BUFFET

The Thebuffet buffet Anonymous painting of the l8th century exhibited at the
Pavillon de Marsan (1936) (M. Anonyroous painting of the 18th cent ury exhibited at
the Pavillon de Marsan (1936) (M.Iion LéonHelft) Helft)

158 158
BULLY.BEEF BüLLY-BEEF

of Nantua General view of

years ago ago the A few few years cARE BUFFET (Station). BUFFET DE DE GARE BUFFEI
(Station). -A a series series of Railways) initiated a S.N.C.F. (National French
French Railways) S.N.C.F. and gastonomiques'. Those Lille, Épernay Epernay and
Those of of Lille, 'buffets 'buffets gastronomiques'. reputation. A vignon have an
especially especially high reputation. Avignon
a barrel and and BUFFETER wine from a drawing-offwine - Action of drawing-off to
mean d buffet' buffet' used used to 'Servir à replacing water. 'Servir replacing it
it with with water. watered guests with which had had been liberally watered
serving guests with wine which down.

part of is today today the which is BUGEY of Savoy Savoy which Includes the the
part - Includes was born in Belley, born in département Brillat-Savarin was Ain.
Brillat-Savarin departemeil of of Ain. of Bugey. dlpartement of which old
département the old town of the which was the the chief town in France. France.
among the best in The The cuisine caisine of of this area is said to be among and
ail all for its its crayfish, crayfish, and Nantua, is celebrated celebrated for
Nantua, in in particular, is there. The The found there. the are to to be be found
famous cheeses of Burgundy are the famous cheeses of plump capons, chickens, ducks
ducks markets capons, chickens, choice plump markets are are full full of of choice
pike abound abound in in and pike and lamb. Trout Trout and and the best salt-
meadow lamb. the best perch and and lavaret, perch the lake supplies supplies
lavaret, and the the rivers, and the Bourget lake and the the hillsides and
char. ,are noted, noted, and and the the hillsides hams,are The country char. The
country hams also game. This fertile region region also plains This fertile provide
succulent plains provide succulent game. great variety variety of of other other
prod uces truffles, produces a great morels, and and a truffies, morels, mushrooms.
Belley Culinary usage ; Belley sausage; klley sa ham; Belley Salt ham; Cnlinary
specialities specialities - Salt 'cardinalised crayfish fondue; ';
crayfishcroqcrayfish croq' crayfish'; Bugey rissoles; rissoles; 'cardinalised
fondue; Bugey du d lafaçon lafagon du uettes; char à la Nantua; Nantua; char tails
à d la uettes; timbale timbale of of crayfish crayfish tails gdteaux; crayfish
tails au au lac quenelles and crayfish tails lavaret gâteaux; and lavaret lac du du
Bourget; Bourget; quenelles truffie s ; gratin la crème ;fillet ofbeefstuddedwith
black truffles; gr at in ;pikeà ; pike d la cr dme fille t of be ef s tudde d wit h
black Y ah omey braised ions ;; round v e al with w it h Valromey of veal w it h on
onions r ound of br aise d leg le g of mut t on with of mutton stufed black black
truffles; tufies; stuffed and black sweetbreads and black morels; morels: ca/ves'
calves' sweetbreads
;

giblets with with chestnuts; chestnuts; truffied giblets turkey; truffled ears;
truffled truffied turkey; calves' ears; calves' Cilestine; chicken Céüwine; chickm
fricassée; Bresse truffled truffied chicken; chicken; chicken Bresse fricassCe;
chicken jugged hare de ChâtChdtgdteau de Diane de hare de de Diane de foies
blondes; jugged gâteau foies blondes; Bugey salC of of Bugey The salé of woodcock.
The eaumorand; Bernardini salmis of eaumorand; just as watera wateras anguries,
anguries, a region, just is the national dish the region, the national dish of of
the is Bugey The well-known well-known Bugey with Belley. The melon salad, is
assoèiated assodiated with melon following at Christmas; Christmas; the following
eaten at ftors-d'euvre eaten rissole is a hot hors-d'œuvre proportions will make a
rissoles. dozen rissoles. a dozen proportions pieces. Clean Clean g. (9 into small
small pieces. roast turkey oz.) roast turkey into Cut 250 250 g. Cut e oz.) hours
and cook cook for for 3 3 hours (5 oz.) cut up, up, and g. (5 thoroughly, cut 150
g. tripe thoroughly, oz.) tripe 150 (q.v.) beef stock, stock, wine and and beef
white wine of white in a a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q. in v.) of a small
bouquet of of pepper, onions and a small bouquet onions and with salt, salt,
pepper, seasoned with seasoned in butter without onion in butter without a chopped
chopped onion chervil. Cook Cook a and chervil. thyme and and with salt meats,
season season with salt and add the the meats, it to allowing it to brown, brown,
add allowing juices, quantity of roast turkey turkey juices, pepper, moisten of
roast with a a small small quantity moisten with pepper, liquor has has until the
the liquor minutes. Simmer Simmer until for 5 6 minutes. and sauté 5 or or 6 saut6
for and (2 oz., g. (2 cup) large large add 50 oz., t* cup) and add 50 g. half, and
boiled down down by by half, boiled cool. Leave to to cool. currants. Leave
currants. (* inch) inch) pastry, roll about 5 mm. (t puff pastry, roll out 5 mm.
out about Make sorne some puff Make onto filling onto rectangles. Spoon Spoon sorne
some filling into small small rectangles. cut into thick, cut thick, in the and
bake bake in the with beaten egg, and fold over, beaten egg, brush with these, fold
over, brush these, oyen. oven.

for anchusa, a name for anchusa, a BUGLossE -- Common Common name BUGLOSS. BUGLOSSE
BUGLOSS. as a a salad, flowers are are eaten eaten as salad, plant also known as as
alkanet. alkanet.Its also known plant l ts f10wers great a great have been been a
said to have and sa a tonic, tonic, and considered to to be be a considered id to
leaves are are eaten eaten regions the the leaves In sorne Louis XIII. XIII. In
some regions favourite of of Louis favourite prepared the as spinach. way as
spinach. same way the same prepared
dough rolled-out dough made from from roJied-out fritter, made kind of of fritter,
A kind BUGNES -- A BUGNES 'capital' of the of the is the Lyons is the 'capital' in
oil. oil. Lyons fried in and fried which is is cut cut up up and which bugnes.
bugnes.

Bugey Bugey crayfish crayfish

plant Biennial plant BULBEUX -- Biennial cERFEUIL BULBEUX CHERVIL. BULBOUS VIL.
CERFEUIL BULBOUS CHER fecula rich in in fecula are rich which are roots, which for
its its tuberous tuberous roots, cultivated cultivated for prepared roots are are
prepared flavour. The The roots aromatic flavour. and and have have aa strong
strong aromatic artichokes. like Chinese Chinese artichokes. like
young bulls that is tougher than that tougher than bulls is Flesh of of young
TAUREAU -- Flesh BULL. BLTLL. TAUREAU isvery very quality. The flesh of animalsis
good quality. The f1esh ofold old animais but of of good of of beef, beef, but in
taste. musky in taste. and often often musky tough, tough,and meat for tinned
tinned meat term for Slang tenu BULL Y-BEEF. ENDAUBAGE ENDAUBAcE - - Slang BLJLLY-
BEEF. forces. armed forces. the armed supplied to the supplied to
159 159
BUNDENFLEISCH BUNDENFLEISCH
BUNDENFLEISCH -- German German word word meaning meaning Grisons Grisons salt salt
BUNDENFLEISCH beef. beef. piece of Pickle a lean piece a lean meat for for 6 of
meat 6days, days, take out of take out of the the brine brine Pickle and hang hang
for for 5 5 or or 6 6 months. months. This pickling is This pickling is done done
in in the the and Swiss canton canton of of Grisons Grisons in in November,
November, and and the the salted meat salted meat Swiss public the sold to to the
the public following April. the following April. When When taken taken out out of
of the the sold put in it is is put brine it in a a smoke-curing smoke-curing house
house for for one one day, day, except except brine in the the Engadine, Engadine,
where pickling is where pickling is done done commercially commercially on on a a
in large scale, and the scale, and the beef beef is is not not smoke-cured. smoke-
cured. large BUNG. BONDE BoNDE -- Wooden Wooden stopper stopper for for barrel
barrel bung-holes. bung-holes. BUNG.

BUNTING. BRUANT BRUANT -- Genus Genus of aquatic, web-footed of aquatic, web-footed

birds, birds, BUNTING. found in in the the marches marches of Bresse and of Bresse
and Dauphiné. Dauphin6. It prepared It is is prepared found in the (see DUCK, the
same same way way as as wild wild duck duck (see DIJCK,'Wild duck). in Wild duck).
BLJRBOT. LOTTE LorrE DE nB RIVIÈRE nrvrinr -- Species Species of of freshwater
freshwater fish fish BURBOT. with long long dorsal dorsal fins, fins, a a long long
tail tail fin, fin, and and drooping drooping barbels barbels with on the the chin.
chin. on Bubot Iiver. liver. FOIE ron DE DE LOTTE LorrE DE oE RIVIÈRE Rrwtns --
Prepared Prepared in in the the Burbot same way way as as the the soft roes of of
various various fish, soft roes fish, tbough though it it requires requires same
longer poaching poaching than than soft roes. soft roes. longer The liver liver is
is highly prized by highly prized poached connoisseurs. It by connoisseurs. It is
is poached The in white white wine wine and and used garnishes. It used for for
various various Lenten Lenten gamishes. It is is in also made (q.v.). pdti (q.v.).
made into into pâté also

(Butter-bur, Beggar's BLTRDOCK (Butter-bor, Beggar's buttons). buttons). BARDANE

BARDANE -BURDOCK perennial plant Hardy perennial plant which grows grows along
along paths on on the the roadroadHardy in the hedgerows. hedgerows. It side and
and in It is is also also called called herbe herbe aux aux teigneux teigneux side
(scurvy grass) grass) because in the past its because in the past its leaves leaves
were were used used as as (scurvy poultices for for certain kinds kinds of sores.
sores. The The fresh fresh spring spring root is is poultices well known known as
as a a depurative and particularly useful is particularly and is useful in in the
the weil treatment of of furunculosis. treatment The tea tea made made from from
its its leaves leaves is is refreshing and and stimula stimulates tes The the
digestion. digestion. It It soothes inflammations inflammations of the the stomach
stomach and and the is an an excellent remedy remedy for for stomach stomach
ulcers. is young shoots and In Scotland young peeled roots and peeled roots of of
burdock In are used in in cooking; cooking; they are prepared as are prepared as
salsify. are

BURGUNDY. BOURGOGNE souncocNE - - Burgundy Burgundy is is the the region region of

of BURGUNDY. France where where the food is isto the best bestfood to be it enjoys
had, and and it behad, enjoysthe the France gastronomes for esteemof of gastronomes
quality and for the the quality and variety variety of its ofits esteem wines.
wines. We are are beholden beholden to its excellent to its excellent cuisine for
aamethod cuisine for method of of We preparation called called àd la la
bourguignonne, bourguignonne, used used mainly mainly for for preparation large
cuts cuts of of braised braised meat, meat, also also for poultry;aa for eggs,
eggs, fish fishand andpoultry; large red wine garnish of wine sauce sauce with with
aa gamish mushrooms and of mushrooms and small red small onions. on ions. Ain is is
the poultry is the district district where where the the best best poultry is
raised; raised, and and Ain where the the town town of of Belley, Belley,
associated associated with with Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, is is where
situated. Nantua Nantua evokes evokes visions visions of /acrème; crdme; Saôneof
crayfish crayfish à rila Sa6nesituated. et-Loire has has the given its the town
town of of Mâcon, Mdcon, which which bas hasgiven its name name to to et-Loire one
of of our our best best wines; wines; the Dijon, may the Côte-d'Or, C6te-d'Or, with
with Dijon, may be besaid one said to be be one one of produces gastronomy; the of
the the capi capitals of gastronomy; Yonne produces the Yonne tais of to Chablis
wines, gourmets. wines, esteemed esteemed by by gourmets. Chablis The Burgundy
Burgundy larder larder is is abundantly abundantly rich. pasture rich. ln In the
The the pasture lands of of Charolais give succulent Charolais the the cattie
cattle give lands succulent beef. The beef. The poultry of Bresse is is considered
considered among of Bresse among the the best in France. France. poultry best in
ground and In Morvan, Morvan, ground game abounds. and winged winged game abounds.
The In The woodwoodcock of of the the Dombes Dombes marshes marshes is is
unrivalled. unrivalled. cock ponds, rivers In the rivers and the ponds, pike, char,
and streams, In streams, pike, char, trout, trout, trout and and crayfish crayfish
are are found. salmon trout found. The The escargots salmon escargots of of
Burgundy are are most most succulent. Burgundy succulent. Among Among other other
excellent excellent products are are Courtivron Courtivron and and Oyonnax Oyonnax
morels, products morels, St St George's George's agaric, cèpes cipes and and other
mushrooms, found other mushrooms, found in agaric, in abundance abundance in in the
woods woods and and fields, fields, and and the the cboice the choice vegetables
vegetables cultivated cultivated in Auxonne and around Auxonne and around Dijon.
Dijon. in The fruit fruit of Burgundy orchards of the The the Burgundy is famous:
orchards is famous: SaintSaintBris cherries; cherries; and and blackcurrants Bris
blackcurrants used not only prepare used not only to to prepare famous Cassis
Cassis liqueur liqueur made made in the famous in Dijon, Dijon, but also for but
also for a a vast vast of sweetmeats. sweetmeats. Dijon Dijon mustard mustard is
number of is considered considered the the best; best; condiments seasoned pickled
gherkins, condiments seasoned with with vinegar, vinegar, such gherkins, as pickled
such as are also also made in in Dijon. Dijon. are The region region which, The
which, with with Bordeaux Bordeaux and proand Champagne, Champagne, produces
magnificent magnificent wines, produces excellent duces wines, produces excellent
cheeses cheeses to to

Spring in in Burgundy Burgundy Spring

160 160
BURGUNDY BURGUNDY
(which (which are are made made in in the the Yonne), Yonne), Saint-Florentin,
Saint-Florentin, Passin Passin best which, which, according according to to some
sorne experts, experts, is is as as good good as as the the. best Sa6ne-etthe and
goat cheeses Morvan varioui Gruydre, Gruyère, various Morvan goat cheeses and the
Saône-etButteaux, Butteaux, Germigny, Germigny, Pougny, Pougny, the the famous
famous Epoisses Époisses cheeses cheeses

Display Display of of grapes grapes and and apples apples from from Dijon Dijon

accompany accompany them. them. Among Among those those highly higbly esteemed
esteemed by by gastronomes gastronomes are are Gex Gex blue-veined blue-veined
cheese cheese which which has has a a certain certain Soumaintrain, CiteaLx,
similarity to to Roquefort; Roquefort; Soumaintrain, Cîteaux, Beugnon, Beugnon,

Loire cream cheeses. Loirecream cheeses. great For For centuries centuries Burgundy
Burgundy has has been been the the land land of of great given gastronomical
gastronomical feasts. feasts. The The most most characteristic characteristic were
were given at at the the time time of of grape-harvesting. grape-harvesting.
Phil6as Philéas Gilbert Gilbert wrote wrote a a description of these these feasts:
feasts: 'From 'From the the moment moment the the village village description of
the before (the drum the roll of call crier crier had had sounded sounded the the
cali (the roll of the drum before the proclamation), père de de la la vigne vigne
and and the the proclamation), when when only only the the pire the evening, until
word, the had layering of wine masters masters of wine layering had the word, until
the evening, press was when of grapes grapes crushed crushed by by the the wine
wine press was when the the last last cask cask of joy poured poured into into the
the vats, vats, all ail was was joy and and song. song. 'And 'And as as a a
compensation compensation for for the the mid-day mid-day meal, meal, the the
supper supper potig traditional with the feast, promised a veritable menu menu
promised a veritable feast, with the traditional potée its its roiust robust
fragrance fragrance teasing teasing the the men men and and women women wine wine
choux harvesters it was was ready. ready . La La tisane tisane fu de choux
harvesters long long before before it was Then there say. sucrie as Henri Henri II
Il used used to to say. Then there was sucrée avec avec de de lard, lard, as for
the occasion sacrificed a and sheep, goose taribaude, d la goose à la taribaude,
and a sheep, sacrificed for the occasion The strange yet ind and transformed
transformed into into strange yet exquisite exquisite ragofits. ragoûts. The

Chernes. Gougère •• '

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Snalls Andouillecces

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.e1Jonzy Game pât~ 'An/S~t!eO lfG ~'~:tFnIJON lark and woodeock pâtt's. Vinegar,
Preserved Mustard,. Vlnegar. Preserved ~ Croquets -vJ.YW,rvt*gn S L
orllles,,.Sauheu t' ~ l!.MUHard - trToibo'1,*o-Z1[\rrut, Grnlerbread Jam.
Gmgerbread. "'. ,ouilly' /. _ ar eyesugar ~ eJambon<t' 0 ? "(;' frUIt, Jam, "fl-'
WI N ES BClorblgpy ci la crème~ ? '! t:'l Confewonery. CasSIS, Prunelle rI' ~ .
u~rout &~-(') ~-;;. .,~uxonne ~O~ Game pâtés NIE V R -.t' r le ~0/1'fSJ ~ t't ~St.
Jean·de·Losne , Asparagus Voov Croquets IV E RN AIS -":;:' AndOUilles c:. ("1
c:.~rr ~ fi ~ ;', , rout Crayfish E'IlIMarzl ans QG -.;:. ~-W Meurette. Poe ouse ::
Vi: RS «1"" P '''j -; ~ T rout. Snads J "

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COMTÉ • ~(1\~~~~"'?"~, ~"~. .:' ~".. aro ~~~r~....... t : Ga~e fîam~ -c; 0. (')
-~... :'-, BOURBONNAIS • hOt' <-"/ // ? ~~.~ Chlcken à G,éx : l roes, IJ/,,
aCOn_(I>(')~/' ~ ,. CI ~~0 " g^?Qounq4 .. a ereme '/" ' of. !-ll-----j ? ~ Ila
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AUPEIN
Gastronomic map mapof of Burgundy Burgundy Gastronomie

161 161
BURGUNDY
flesh of grandam of of tbis this sheep, sheep, the the grandam flock, at of the the
flock, at times times tasted tasted flesh (to say grease (to of wool wool grease
nothing of say nothing of its its toughness!) toughness !) but, but, to to of jugs
poured go down, make it pot-bellied jugs it go down, the the pot-bellied poured
forth forth cool cool make 'plenty of wine; it it was was 'plenty grub' and of
grub' and carousing carousing to to one's one's heart's heart's wine;
content .. . . ".. content 'Ah! Those Those admirable admirable Burgundian
Burgundian meals, meals, when great when a a great 'Ah! profusion of delectable
dishes of delectable dishes is is served, served, such as escargotssuch as
escargots profusion d la la bourguignonne, bourguignonne, naturally! naturally! --
meurelle (q.v.) of meurette (q,v.) various of various il (q.v.) with frsh;
andoui/lelles andouillettes (q.v.) with beans; (q.v.) beans; a a succulent
succulent dflube daube (q.v.) fish; of beef; beef; the the traditional traditional
ferchuse d la la ménagère, minagire, fiammiche ferchuse il of flammiche
poireaux,fouie au aux poireaux,fouée au lard, lard, and and the the Burgundy
Burgundy rigodon rigodon!' aux l' Cnfinary specialities specialities -- To To
Philéas Phildas Gilbert, Gilbert, the the escargot, escargot, Colinary prepared in
in accordance accordance with with Burgundian Burgundian rites, rites, eaten eaten
prepared scalding hot hot as as it it is is taken taken out garlic-scented butter
out of its garlic-scented of its butter scalding gastronomy of bath, symbolises
symbolises the the gastronomy of Burgundy, Burgundy. But But there there is is
bath, an infinite infinite variety variety of of other other dishes, dishes,
recipes recipes for for which which will will be be an found in in alphabetical
alphabetical order. order. found Potie bourguignonne, bourguignonne, which which is
is similar similar to various French to various French Potée poties, for for each
each region region of France has pofte; pochouse pochouse of France has its its
potée; potées, (q.v.) and and various various freshwater freshwater fish (q.v.);
beef fish matelotes matelotes (q.v.); beef il d la ta (q.v.) bourguignonne, which
which must must be made with be made with red red wine; wine; round round of of
bourguignonne, veal il d la la crème; crime; andouille andouille wilh with white (a
white beans; beans; ferchuse ferchuse (a vea/ corruption of of the the word word
fressure, pluck); daube i.e. pluck); daube bourbourfressure, i.e. corruption
guignonne;flammiche with with /eeks;fouée, leeks;foude,whichis a cream cream flan
flan guignonne;fiammiche which is a filled with with slices slices of of bacon
bacon and and sprinkled sprinkled with with walnut walnut oil; oil; filled poulet
young pigeons au sang; sang; young gobinette; canard h la la gobineue; canard au au
pou/el au pigeons il jugged hare laurier; jugged hare à d /a la bourguignonne;
bourguignonne; saddle saddle of of hare hare à d la la laurier; Piron; omelelle
omelette au au sang. sang. Piron; There are are pike d la la crème; udme; Amay-le-
Duc Arnay-le-Duc andouille; andouille; Sens Sens There pike à andauillette; Dijon
Dijon ham honn wilh with parsley; the sausages sausages of of Belley Belley
andouillelle; parsley; the (Brillat-Savarin's native crayfish tails tails à d la
Nantua; la Nan/ua; (Brillat-Savarin's native place); place); crayfish pike
quenelles wilh with crayfish; crayfisft; Pemollet Pernollet chicken chicken il d la
la crème; crime; pike quenelles coq au &t chambertin; chambertin; sucking-pig
sucking-pig il it la la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; ham coq Mm rigodon, and and a
a whole of charcuterie: charcuterie: large and smal! small rigodon, whole range
range of large and sausages; black black pudding and pork which are are made in
sausages; pudding and pork pies, pies, which made in the Sa6ne-et-Loire and and in
Côte-d'Or, Ain, Ain, Saône-et-Loire in Yonne. Yonne. the COte-d'Or, Among and
pastries sweets and Burgundy Among the the cakes, cakes, sweets pastries of of the
the Burgundy (which can region rigodon (q.v.) can also region are are the the
rigodon (q.v.) (which also be be made made as as a dessert or or sweet sweet
course); dessert course); Lower Lower Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes; cakes;
Upper cakes known Upper Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes known as as pognoi;
pognon; pancakes, pancakes, called called matefaims malefaims ifr iil Upper Upper
Burgundy; Burgundy; bugnes bllgnes or or couques; coliques; and Auxerre Sens and
Sens Auxerre gougire; gougère; Louhans Louhans corgniottes; co rgn io Iles ;
chamoure chamoure - a a kind kind of of marrow marrow flan flan which which is is
mainly mainly made made in in Lower Lower Mflconnais; Mâconnais; fruit fruit
tartouillat; larlouillal; tarte larle aux aux boulettes; bou/eues; flamusse
fiamusse gaudes. bressane; and gaudes. bressane; and Among Among local local pastry
pastry and and confectionery confectionery specialities specialities are are Dijon
and pain ipice; Avallon Dijon nonnettes nonnel/es and pain d d'épice; Avallon and
and Chablis Chablis bis cuits ; Sens s mer ingue s; Arnay-le-Duc ; Chabli biscuits;
Sens macaroons macaroons; Chablis meringues; Amay-le-Duc mar z ip ans ; noug a t
ine s ; b lac k cur r ant fondant s ; sug ar - c o a t e d marzipans; nougatines;
blackcurrant fondants; sugar-coaled jams, among cherries cherries (cherries
(cherries in in petticoats); petticoats); excellent excellentjams, among which
which the known are are Chanceavx Chanceaux raisini, raisiné, confiture confiture
d'ipined'epinethe best best known vinCtte: and Flavigny Flavigny aniseed aniseed
sweets. sweets. vinelle; and To To conclude conclude the the list list of of local
local produce produce are are the the esteemed esteemed cassis and prunelle, cassis
liqueurs liqueurs made made at at Dijon; Dijon; and prunelle, made made at at
Flavigny. Flavigny. Wines Wines - The The quality quality and and variety varicty
of of Burgundy Burgundy wines wines assure assure them them a a leading leading
place place not not only only in in France France but but in in the the world.
world. Viticultural Viticultural Burgundy Burgundy goes goes beyond beyond the the
frontiers frontiers of of historic historie Burgundy. Burgundy. It It extends
extends across across fo:ur four dipartements: départements: Yonne, Côte-d'Or,
Sa6ne-et-Loire Saône-et-Loire and and Rhdne, Rhône, embracing embracing Yonne,
C6te-d'Or, the the great great regions regions of of Chablis, Chablis, Cdte Côte de
de Nuits, Nuits, C6te Côte de de Beaune, Beaune, Cdte chalonnaise, Côte
chalonnaise, MAconnais, Mâconnais, Beaujolais. Beaujolais. Each Each of of these
these regions regions comprises comprises several several appellations,
appel/ations, some some communes. communes, some sorne vineyards, vineyards,
besides besides regional regional or'generic' or 'generic' appellations
appellations (see (see accompanying accompanying table). table). Chablis. The
little town of Chablis Chablis in in Yonne Yonne has has given given its its
Chablis. The little town of name and name to to this this excellent excellent dry
dry wine wine with with its its greeny-gold greeny-gold hue hue and delicate
delicate bouquet. bouquet. It lt is is a a wine wine that tha! matures matures
beautifully beautifully in in

Ycizdav c .s AvAr,Jnrf

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t tr

E - ET - LO

Buxv vo

AUT.I E R
Red wines O Red .. O White Whire wines wines o D6partement -, Departement .'V'\
boundary "1n boundary : Railway Railway = Scale Scala --Y

10

10 20K o', 10 0 0 10

'':\

Map of the Map or the Burgundy Burgundy wine-growing wine-growing district di"trÎct
good good vintage vintage years. years. Connoisseurs enjoy drinking it it with
oysters, shellfish. oysters, seafood, seafood, fish fish and shellfish. COte Nuits.
This is the name Côte de de Nuils. name given to the northern northem part of of
the the C6te-d'Or, Côte-d'Or, which which begins south south of of Dijon Dijon with
with the the commune commune of of Fixin Fixin and ends south of Nuits-Saint-
Georges. Nuits-Saint-Georges, The vineyards climb halfway halfway up up a line of
of hills hills situated west west

The The C6te Côte de de Nuits Nuits produces mostly mostly red red wines. wines,
These strong, strong, full-bodied, full-bodied, glowing, glowing, fragrant fragrant
wines wines enjoy enjoy an
excellent reputation reputation and and accompany roast roast or or grilled grilled
meat, meat, game game (even (even when when it it is is high), high), piquant
piquant dishes dishes and cheeses cheeses to to perfection. perfection. Cbte de
Beaune. Beaune. This This comes cornes immediately immediately after after the the
COte Côte de de Côte de Nuits Nuits and and gets gets its its name name from from
the the village village of of Beaune. Beaune. Cdte Côte de de Beaune ex tends from
from Ladoix-Serrigny Ladoix-Serrigny in in the the north north to to Beaune extends
Santenay, Santenay, on on the the borders borders of of the the ddpartemmr
département of of Sa6ne-etSaône-etLoire Loire in in the the south. south. Apart
Apart from from some sorne great great red red wines, wines, Cdte Côte de de Beaune
Beaune produces produces some sorne very very fine fine dry dry white white wines,
wines, the the most most famous famous being being Montrachet, Montrachet, with
with its its delicious delicious fragrance fragrance of of fresh fresh almonds.
almonds. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet often often equals equals it; it;
the the Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet and and B0tarde-Montrachet
Bâtarde-Montrachet have have better better lasting lasting qualities. qualities.
The The powerful powerful Corton-Charlemagne, Corton-Charlemagne, the the fragrant,
fragrant, full-bodied full-bodied Meursault Meursault are, are, like Iike all aIl
the the wines wines of of this this region, region, wines wines to to serve serve
with with fish fish and and shellfish; shellfish; they they also also make make
fitting fitting companions corn panions to to the the richest richest of.sauces. of
sauces. The The red red wines wines are are as as good good as as those those of of
the the C6te Côte de de Nuits. Nuits. They They can can be be drunk drunk with with
meat, meat, but but it il is is preferable preferable (apart (apan from from

of of the the autoroute autoroute Dijon-Mdcon. Dijon-Mâcon.

t62 162
BURGUNDY BURG UND Y

(from contemporary The contemporary tapestries) tapestries) The manufacture

Burgundy wines, wines, 1470 1470 (from manufacture of of Burgundy

Corton keep them for less less rich rich dishes dishes than than to keep them for
Corton or or Pommard) to those that Côte wines usually accompany. C6te de de Nuits
wines usually accompany. Côte line of the line of the of This is is the
continuation of the continuation Cbte chalonnaise. This sun-drenched Dijon. The The
of Dijon. south of hill slopes that begin begin south sun-drenched hill slopes that
red famous are worthy worthy of of their their famous Rully, are red Mercurey,
Mercurey, the white Rully, the white brothers of (There is white Mercurey Mercurey
is also also a a white Cdte-d'Or. (There of the the Côte-d'Or. and (white) not
forget Montagny (white) We must must not forget the the Montagny and a a red red
Rully.) Rully.) We and . (both red red and and white). white). and the the Givry
Givry (both Mâconnais. nder the Mdcon Mdcon, Mâcon the appellations appellations
Mâcon, Mdconnais. U Under supérieur (white only) find red, red, only) we we find
and Mâcon-Villages Mdcon-Villages (white sup6rieur and rosé good vinified, make
make good when weil well vinified, which, when and white white wines wines which,
ros6 and carafe carafe wines. wines. Aiso is a a superb dry Mdconnais wines wines
there there is superb dry among the Also among the Mâconnais wh(te Pouilly-Fuiss6
which, which, white wine wine known world: Pouilly-Fuissé known ail all over over
the the world: gastronomically gastronomically speaking, with Chablis is
interchangeable interchangeable with Chablis speaking, is wines Two communal
communal Beaune. Two C6te de de Beaune. wines or or those of the the Côte those of
appellations, are in and Pouilly-Loché Pouilly-Loch6 are in appellations, Pouilly-
Vinzelles Pouilly-Vinzelles and the the same class. same class. Beaujolais. the
Burguody Burgundy wines, wines, classerl among among the Beaujolais. Although
Although classer.! Beaujolais personality. Its name with a a strong Its name
Beaujolais is is a a wine wine with strong personality. evokes y wines, pleasant to
are pleasant wines, the the kind kind that that are to light, fruit fruity evokes
Iight, drink 'gulping' wines, young and fresh --'gulping' wines, the the and fresh
drink when when they are young they are growers growers call the Gamay Gamay
kingdom, kingdom, It belongs belongs to to the call them. them. It

whereas great wines come from from the the wines of the Côte-d'Or C6te-d'Or come
whereas the the great of the black black Pinot. Pinot. The in the the Beaujolais
begins begins in district of of Beaujolais The wine-growing wine-growing district
département extends north and and extends in the the north dipartemenl of Sa6ne-et-
Loire in of Saône-et-Loire southwards 'generic' appelappelLyons. The The 'generic'
of Lyons. southwards to to the the environs environs of lations 'Beaujolais
supérieur' 'Beaujolais', 'Beaujolais and sup6rieur' and are 'Beaujolais', lations
are 'Beaujolais-Villages'; very 'Beaujolais-Villages'; they are the lightest
varieties varieties and and very they are the lightest drinkable. drinkable. Nine
rit a growths me each of of them them merit Nine growths a special special
appellation, appellation, each (see accompanying with accompanying table). table).
individual character character (see with its its own own individual It most
Beaujolais, Beaujolais, which which noting that contrary to to most It is is worth
worth noting that contrary must young, the and Moulin-àMoulin-dFleurie and the
Morgon, Morgon, Fleurie must be be drunk drunk young, Vent year -- be good year
laid down. be laid down. Vent can can -- in in a a good

LIST CONTROTENS LIST OF OF APPELLATIONS APPELLATIONS CONTRÔLÉES OF y BURGUNDY OF

BURGUND White (R) wines (W) and red (R) wines and red White (W) Appellations rig
ionale s Appe llat ions régionales Bourgogne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Bourgogne Bourgogne ...................... ros6
Bourgogne clairet clairet ou ou rosé Bourgogne ............................
Bourgogne aligoté aligot6 Bourgogne passe-tout-
grain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... . . . . .. Bourgognepasse-tout-grain..
Bourgogne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. grand ordinaire. Bourgogne grand
ordinaire 163 163

W, W, R R R R W W R R W, W, R R
BUSH BUSH
Rigion de deChablis Chablis Région grand cru. Chablis grand
cru .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis premier cru
Chablis premier cru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis Chablis
Chablis...................... . ........... Perit Chablis chablis ... Petit . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Chambolle-Musigny .......................... . Chambolle-Musigny Fixin.
Fixin.............. . ......... . Gevrey-Chambertin ..................... . Gevrey-
Chambertin Morey-Saint-Denis Morey-Saint-Denis ........................... . Nuits-
Saint-Georges . . . . . . . . . . . . Nuits-Saint-Georges. . ....... .
Vougeot .......................... . Vougeot Vosne-
Roman6e ............................. . Vosne-Romanée . C6te de de Nuits-Villages
Nuits-Villages .................... ... Côte . Bourgogne-MarsannayJa-Cdte .. .
Bourgogne-Marsannay-Ia-Côte Bourgogne-Vins fins fins des des Hautes Hautes Côtes
Cdtes de Nuits. de Nuits ... Bourgogne-Vins .... Bonnes Mares
Mares ............................... . Bonnes Chambertin . . . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . Chambertin. . ....... . Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Bbze. . Cham bertin-Clos
de Chapelle-Chambertin ......................... . Chapelle-Chambertin Charmes or
or Mazoyéres-Chambertin Mazoyeres-Chambertin ............ . Charmes Clos de de la
la Roche Roche ..... Clos Clos Saint-Denis. Saint-Denis ..
Clos ........... . ............ . Clos de de Tart Tart. .
Clos ................................ . Clos de de Vougeot
Vougeot ............................. . Clos
Ech6zeaux .................................. . Echézeaux Grands-
Ech€zeaax ........................... . Grands-Echézeaux Griottes-
Chambertin ......................... . Griottes-Chambertin La Tâche
Tdche ................................... . La Latricibres
-Chambertin .............. . Latricières-Chambertin Mazis-
Chambertin ........................... . Mazis-Chambertin
Musigny .................................... . Musigny Richebourg
Richebourg ................................. . La ... Romanée.. ..... . ...........
. La Roman6e Roman6e-Conti. . Romanée-Conti ............. . Roman6e-Saint-Vivant
Romanée-Saint-Vivant ........................ . Ruchottes-Chambertin Ruchottes-
Chambertin. . ................. . Great wines wines of of Côte COte de de Nuits
Nuits GreaI
C6te de deNuilS Nuits Côte

w W w W w W w W
R R R R R R

SampignyJbs-Maranges ......... .. . .. . ... . .. Sampigny-lès-Maranges . Saint-

Romain ............................... ... Saint-Romain . Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes
C6tesdeBeaune ....... Bourgogne-Hautes de Beaune Great wines wines of of Côte Cbte
de de Beaune Beaune GreaI Corton Corton ..................................... .
Corton-Charlemagne Corton-Charlemagne ...................... . Bdtard-Montrachet
Bâtard-Montrachet ......... . Bienvenue-Bdtard-Montrachet Bienvenue-Bâtard-
Montrachet ................. . Criots-Bdtard-Montrachet... Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet
............. . ....... Chevalier-Montrachet Chevalier-
Montrachet . . . . ........ . . . . .. Montrachet Montrachet. . . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Beaujolais Beaujolais Beaujolais. ........... . Beaujolais.. Beaujolais sup6rieur
Bea ujolais su périeur . Beaujolais-Villages Beaujolais-
Villages ........................... . Brouilly. . . .. ...
Brouilly. . . ...................... . Ch6nas Chénas ... . . ........ . Chiroubles
Chiroubles. ... . ........................ . C6tes de
Brouilly . . . . . . . .. . ............. . de Brouilly. Côtes Fleurie. . . . . .
Fleurie. . .......... . Juli6nas Juliénas ........................... .

R R W, R W,R R R W. R W,R W W W W W W W W W W W W
W,R W. R W, R W,R R R R R R R

w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R R R R R R R R R

R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R

R R R R R R R R
R R R R

Morgon Morgon .......................... . Moulin-i-Vent.... . Moulin-à-Vent Saint-

Amour . ... Saint-Amour
Mdconnais Mâconnais

...

..

..

w,R W,R
R R
R R R R R R R R

M6con Mâcon .. Mdcon supérieur. sup6rieur Mâcon . . . . . . . . . . ......... .

Micon-Villages. Mâcon-Villages .............................. . Pouilly-
Fuiss6 .............................. .. Pouilly-Fuissé . Pouilly-
Vinzelles ............................ . Pouilly-Vinzelles . Pouilly-Loche ...
Pouilly-Loché ................... .
(In Il). (rNr) BUSH a). BUrssoN BlJSH (ln BU1SS'ON (EN)

W. R W,R W, n W,R W W W W W W

arranging various - Method of arranging ingredients, shellfish: crayfish m buisson,

Ingredients, particularly particularly shellfish' crayfish en

lobsters buisson, spiny lobsters en buissor. Smelts Smelts and en buisson, spiny
lobslers en buisson. lobs/ers en other other small fish are also frid [ried and
arranged 'in a a bush'.

Givry. Givry...........

COte chalonnaise Côte cha/onnaise

. ............ Mercurey Mercurey ................................... Montagny.

Montagny ................................... Rully.
Rully.......... . ...................

. . . .

w,R W,R w,R W,R w W w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R
R R

Auxey-Duresses. Auxey-Duresses. . ................... . Beaune

Beaune. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .... . Blagny.
Blagny... . ............... . Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-
Montrachet ........................ Chorey-lbs-Beaune Chorey-lès-
Beaune ................ . C6tes Côtes de de Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . ...........
Cdtes . Côtes de de Beaune-Villages. Beaune-Villages ...................... Ladoix
Ladoix ................................... . Meursault
Meursault. . . . . . ........... Month€lie Monthélie............ . ................
Pernand-Vergelesses Pernand-Vergelesses ...................... . Pommard
Pommard ................................. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-
Montrachet .............. . Saint-Aubin Saint-A
ubin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ............ Santenay Santenay. . . . .
. . . . . . .. . ........ . Savigny-lbs-Beaune Savigny-lès-
Beaune ........................... Volnay
Volnay ..................................... CheillyJbs-Maranges Cheilly-lès-
Maranges .... . Dezize-lbs-Maranges Dezize-lès-Maranges ..........................

Aloxe-Corton.. Aloxe-Corton. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ...

COte Côte de de Beaune Beaune

BUSTARD. BUSTARD. ourARDE 'OUTARDE - Genus Genus of of bird of of the family

Otidiae, Olidiae, found and temperate regions of the Old World. found in in both
both hot hot and temperateregionsoftheOld World. The great greal bustardis
bus/ardis the the largest largest land bird bird in Europe, where where it il comes
cornes in Itt is in December Decem ber and and stays stays until until March.
March.1 is known known for for the the delicacy of of its its flesh. flesh. The The
little /iule bustardis buslard is more more highly highly prized. It 1t comes
cornes to to Beauce and and Berry Berry in in April, April, but but is is non-
migrant non-migrant in Spain, Spain, Italy, Ital y, Greece and and Sardinia. The
The special special feather feather structure structure on on the the head head of
of the the great great bustard bustard male male is is absent from from the the
head head of of the the little little bustard bus tard male. male. The The
principal principal method method of of cooking cooking bustard bustard is is
roasting. roasting. All Ali the indicated for for the the preparation preparation
of of the the domestic domestic the recipes recipes indicated goose goose and the
the Nantes Nantes duckling duckling can can be be applied applied to to bustard.
bustard.

. . R R w,R W,R W,R . W,R . w,R W,R w,R W,R . R R w,R W,R W,R . w,R w,R W,R W,R .
w,R . R R w,R W,R W . w
164 164

young young shoots shoots are are edible edible and and are are prepared prepared
like like asparagus. asparagus.

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S BROOM. BROOM. Penr-Eoux PETIT-HOUX -. Shrub with with bitter
bitter roots, raots, which which is is one one of of the the five five roots roots
used used for for aperitifs. aperitifs. Its Ils

BUTCHER'S BlJTCHER'S SHOP. SHOP. BoucHERq BOUCHERn; - Shop Shop for for the the
retail retail sale sale of of meat meat for for human human consumption.
consumption. The The meat meat trade trade has has a a long long history. history.
The The Jewish Jewish High High Priest Priest in in Biblical Biblical times, times,
performin! performing the the sacrificial sacrificial offering, offering, was was
the the real real precursor precursor ofthe of the butcher. butcher. In ln Egypt,
Egypt, a a fire tire was was lit lit in in front front of of the the altar altar
where where a a sacrifice sacrifice was was to ta be be made, made, wine wine was
was offered offered and and a Il god god invoked. invoked. The The throat throat of
of the the animal animal was was slit, slit, the the head head severed severed and
and the the carcase carcase skinned. skinned. The The head head was was taken taken
to to market; market; it it was was sold sa Id to to a a Greek Greek if ifone one
could cou Id be be found, found, if ifnot, not, the the head head was was thrown
thrown into into the the river. river. The The Romans Romans made made similar
similar sacrifices, sacrifices, but but created created a a special special
body body of ofmen men to to carry carry out out the the actual actual butchery
butcheryof the animals, animais, of the
BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S SHOP SHOP

animals(l'Encyclopidie) of animai included lhe the slaughtering of which Butcher's

shop shop until untJl end ofseventeenth of seventeenth century wll içh induded s (l
'Encyclopédie) Butcher's

for the giving these these men men special special privileges to to compensate
compensate for occupation was held in contempt by the higher fact that their
occupation an was an classes. Under Under Nero, Nero, the the Roman Roman butcher's
shop was butcher's shop classes. a guild, imposing establishment, they established
established a and they imposing establishment, and which was subject to official
reguJations. regulations. Butchers specialissuarii. called suarii, and selling of
pigs were called ing in the buying and In France, guild had by the had been been
established by France, a a butchers' butchers'guild In eighth century; apprenticea
three years' appreni.iceman had to serve a century; a a man ship further three for
a a further meat for cut and and sell sell meat dress, cut and buy, buy, dress,
ship and and buy buy an an years before ter butcher and master a mas he could
become a before he official diploma; both great deal money. deal of of money.
privileges cost a a great both privileges The ter butchers, and master butchers,
and master of of mas guild was by a a master directed by The guild was directed not
became powerful, arrogating to themselves themselves not arrogating to became
extremely extremely powerful, pork and only and mutton, pork veal, mutton, beef,
veal, selling beef, monopoly of of selling only the the monopoly sucking-pig, .
fish. and river river fish also sea sea and sucking-pig, but also

guild Arms Arms of of the the butchers' butchers' guild

Charles privileges, and and their their their privileges, revoked sorne some of of
their Charles VI VI revoked power they century they the sixteenth sixteenth century
in the power declined time, but but in declined for for aa time, es men, and were
to weresubject subjectto andwere of trad tradesmen, raised to the status statusof
were raised to the statutes, them forbade them which forbade were ordinances
ordinanceswhich which were among which statutes, among to afteraa openafter keep
open authority; keep without authority; new stalls stalls without to open open new
certain during orduring abstinence or meat on daysof ofabstinence on days certain
time; time; exhibit exhibit meat Lent , and for the the andthat thatonly only for
ten, stall out out of often onestail Lent in in more more than thanone sick ;
sohcit slaughter customers; slaughter or abuse abuse customers; solicit custom
custom or sick; animais cooked sellcooked authorities;sell theauthorities;
informing the without informing animals without meat ; or a butcher. butcher. ofa
thatof butthat pursueany anyother other trade trade but meat; orpursue They animals
healthyanimais from healthy meatfrom tosell sellmeat They were were expected
expected to which from notdied diedfrom hadnot andhad properly slaughtered
slaughtered and hadbeen beenproperly which had disease andto to wayand
prepareititin inaac1ean cleanway to prepare diseaseor orsuffocation, suffocation,
to

long, kept for for too too long, fresh or or kept not too too fresh right time,
time, not it at at the the right sell it sell it in summer l| days days in summer
and It in win winter days in 2 days than 2 i.e., more than - it ter and i.e., human
for human unfit for meat became became unfit the meat that the reckoned that being
reckoned being these periods after these consumption after consumption Periods..
method of of a method hand, a by hand, out by measured out meat measured The sale
sale of of meat The and arguments, and continual arguments, caused continuai
estimation, caused approximate estimation, approximate the which offered offered
the of scales, scales, which system of replaced by by the the system was replaced
was penalties ininand penalties confiscations and Fines, confiscations greatest
fairness. fairness. Fines, greatest lawthe lawon the inflicted on rights were were
inflicted civil rights loss of of civil volving the the loss volving that provost
of to see see that of Paris Paris to the provost of the was the duty It was the dut
breakers. It y of breakers. carried out. out. were carried statutes were these
statutes these of the end endof until the maintained until were maintained
regulations were The royal royal regulations The away in doing doing away succeeded
in Napoleon succeeded monarchy. absolute monarchy absolute . Napoleon the created
the and created houses, and privately owned slaughter houses, owned slaughter with
privately with forced to to were forced as butchers butchers were As soon soon as
public slaughter house. As slaughter house. public industry developed developed:
the industry of the branches of there, two two branches animals there, take animals
take : first covered covered The first retail trade, trade.The and the the retail
trade and wholesale trade the wholesale the house, to the the slaughter slaughter
house, purchase of transport to of livestock, livestock, transport the purchase the
of consisted of room. The The second second consisted the scalding scalding room.
the work work of of the and the and consumer. meat to to the the consumer. of meat
carcases of retailing the the carcases retailing century, nineteenth century, in
the the nineteenth created in were created markets were Cattle markets Cattle for
the the Passy for and Passy Pontoise and at Sceaux, Sceaux, Pontoise those at among
them them those among butchers from which which butchers up from also set set up
was also A fund fund was area. A Paris area. Paris purchases, with withaa for
purchases, money for necessary money the necessary could obtain obtain the could be
proviso that loan be theloan that the percent interest, and andaaproviso cent
interest, charge of of 5 5 per charge of oneof retainedone Thus the
butchersretained the butchers repaid within within aafortnight. fortnight. Thus
repaid pressdaims claims notpress could not creditorscould privileges. Their
Theircreditors theirancient ancient privileges. their inthe the meatin themeat
norseize seize the day, nor market clay, of,or oron, on, market on the the eve
eveof, on town's thetown's tosafeguard safeguard the wereessential essentialto
These conditions conditions were shop. These shop. meat supplies. supplies. meat
free, becamefree, meattrade tradebecame themeat centurythe nineteenthcentury
thenineteenth Duringthe During was periodduring which itit was during which
transition period was aa transition but there there was but prove that thatan an
francsto toprove payaafee 3,000francs feeof of3,000 necessaryto to pay necessary
possessed the the onepossessed andthat thatone servedand had been beenserved
aapprenticeship pprenticeship had presentaacertificate certificate meat,to
topresent retailmeat, toretail knowledge to necessary knowledge necessary notto to
undertakenot andto toundertake goodconduct andcharacter, character, and conductand
of ofgood prefecture three givingthe three theprefecture withoutgiving leave the
the business business without leave months' notice, months'notice. 500 wgreonly
only500 therewçre centurytbere ofthe thecentury middleof Towardsthe themiddle
Towards laiddown downthe the regulations laid left.Police Policeregulations
shopsleft. retail retailbutcher butchershops betiJed, tiled, hadto tobe theyhad
ofshops; shops;they running of relatingto tothe therunning details detailsrelating
couldset set positioned.No Nobutcher butchercould wellpositioned. andwell weil
wellventilated ventilatedand

165 l6s
BUTTER
up business before the police commissioner of his area had up business before the
police commissioner of his area had visited his premises and given his approval.
Any butcher visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher who displayed
meat outside his premises was fined. A shop who displayed meat outside his premises
was fined. A shop that did not display meat for three consecutive davs was that did
not display meat for three consecutive days was closed for six months. closed for
six months. kitchensof largecatering oflarge catering establishments
establishmentswhich whichbuy buycomcomkitchens pletecarcases carcases or orlarge
largecuts cutswholesale, wholesale, or ordirect directfrom fromthe the plete
slaughterhou house, fortheir theirown owncooks cooksto tocarve carveand prepare.
andprepare. slaughter se, for Butchers'shops shopsalso also have havescales scales
which which must mustbe bekept keptvery very Butchers' clean, marble marble tables
tablesand andceramic ceramicplates plates to todisplay displaythe themeaL meai.
clean, Modern rules rulesof ofhygiene hygienebeing protectfood beingmade madeto
toprotect foodfrom from Modern dust, many many butchers' butchers' shops provided
with shopsare areprovided withdisplay display dust, counters enclosed enclosed with
glass,and withglass, and often often with with means meansof of counters
refrigeration.Uncut Uncutcarcases carcasesare arehung hungfrom from rails rails on
on hooks, hooks, refrigeration. andenclosed enclosed in in aa refrigerated
refrigerated chamber chamber or or in in aa large large and refrigerator. The The
walls walls and and Boors floors of of aa butcher's butcher's shop shop are are
refrigerator. usually tiled, tiled, and and kept kept scrupulously scrupulously
clean. clean. Employees Employeei are are usually dressed in in light-coloured
light-coloureci clothes clothes and and wear wearwhite white aprons. aprons.
dressed

Butcher's tools ( Nicolas\ Butcher"s 100is (Nicolas)

Since 1863 the number of shops has considerably inSince 1863 the number of shops
has considerably increased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but
creased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but the butchers' guild
no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed the butchers' guild no longer has the
prerogatives it enjoyed under the old r6gime. The. work of slaughtering animals is
under the old régime. The. work of slaughtering animais is now carried out in
recognised slaughter except in in a a now carried out in recognised slaughter
houses, houses, except very few localities where the butcher does the slauglitering
very few localities where the butcher does the slaughtering himself. The bulk of a
butcher's work is the preparition oi himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the
preparation of cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and cuts of
meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and dresses the joints himself.
dresses the joints himself.

origin of goes back of butter butter goes back to to the the early early nomadic
nomadic people people who who origin used the the milk milk of goats, cows, of
goats, cows, ewes, ewes, mares, mares, she-asses she-asses and and used prepare it.
she-camels t~ to prepare it. she-camels The Aryans Aryans brought brought butter
butter to to the the inhabitants inhabitants of India, of India, The who soon soon
considered considered it it aa sacred sacred food. food. who The Hebrews Hebrews
used used butter butter as as a a medicine medicine as as weil well as as a a food.
food. The Abraham offered offered butter, butter, a a symbolic symbolic food, food,
to to three three men men who who Abraham came to to his his tent tent in in the
plains of the plains of Mamre. Mamre. In In his proverbs his proverbs came Solomon
says: 'Surely, the says: 'Surely, the churning churning of milk bringeth of milk
bringeth forth forth Solomon butter ... . . .'. butter '. The Scythians Scythians
also also had had butter, butter, and and brought brought it it to to the the The
Greeks, and and its its use use spread spread throughout throughout the civilised
civilised world. world. Greeks, People living living in in sorne some southern
southern countries, countries, like like the the Romans, Romans, People used oil
oil much much more more than than butter butter in in their their cooking. cooking.
This usee! preference still persists in still persists in certain certain parts
parts of of the the south south of preference of France, mainly mainly in in
Provence, Provence, where where oil plays a oil plays a principal France, part in
in ail all the the dishes. dishes. part

BUTTER. BEURRE BEURRE -- Fatty Fatty substances substances extracted extracted from
from the the BUTTER. milk of mammals, known of mammals, known and and used used as
as food food by by man. man. The The milk

Butcher's cold room (/{icolas) Butcher's colù room (Nicolas)

Old making butter Oldway wayof ofmaking butter

work is The prepara tory work iscarried carried out outon onaachopping
choppingblock: bl ock : a section of a tree trunk, usually a section of a tree
trunk, usually elm, elm, mounted mounted on on three three legs. The slab, also
used as a bench, has a cross-grained legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a
cross-grained wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large wooden
working surface with fittings for tools, and large

The preparatory

drawers. The tools include choppers,
choppers, saws and knives of various
wooden various sizes; the latter are
boutique. These tools are often seen
are often seen in the
166 166
saws and knives of drawers. The tools include
sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a
sometimes placed in a wooden case, called a
in the case, called a boutique, These tools

Preparation Preparation of of butter butter -- In In their their emulsive emulsive

state, state, the the fattv fatty globules globulesof ofmilk milk are are
relatively relativelystable, stable, but butwhen when the the liquid liquid is is
left left to to stand, stand, they they rise rise to to the the surface surface in
in the the form form of ofcrea-. cream. Cream Creamis isgenerally generallyobtained
obtainedby bythe thecentrifugation centrifugationof ofmilk milkin in separators.
separa tors. Once Onceagitated agitated(in (inwhat whatconstitutes constitutesthe
thechurning churning operation) operation) the the fatty fatty globules globules
agglutinate agglutinate into into a a compaci compact mass masscalled calledbutter.
butter.
BUTTER BUTTER
water). water). It It should should have have a a slightly slightly aromatic
aromatic smell smell and and a a sweet, sweet, pleasant pleasant flavour. flav6ur.
When When placed placed on on the the tongue tongue it it should should melt melt
without without leaving leaving any any deposit. deposit. year it The The colour
colom varies varies according according to to the the time time of of year it was
was produced produced and and the the type type of of animal animal feeding feeding
chosen chosen by by the the farmers. farmers. It It can can be be almost almost
white. white. The The content content of of substances substances other other than
than fat fat (milk (milk constituents constituents remaining remaining in in the
the butter butter after after churning churning and and washing) washing) must must
not not exceed exceed 18 18 per per cent, cent, of of which which l6 16 per per
cent cent should should be be water. water. energy food Butter Butter is is a a
valuable valuableenergy food (750 (750 calories calories per per 100 100 g., g., 4
4 oz.).It oz.). It contains contains a a large large amount amount of of Vitamin
Vitamin A A (the (the vitamin vitamin (the anti-rachitic D that that promotes
promotes growth) growth) and and Vitamin Vitamin D (the anti-rachitic vitamin),
vitamin), but but the the quantities quantities of of these these vary vary
according according to to the the quality quality of of the the butter, butter,
animal animal feeding feeding methods, methods, and and the the season. season.
Unadulterated, Unadulterated, it it is is the the most most digestible digestible
of of the the animal animal raw. fats. fats, provided provided that that it it is
is eaten eaten raw. Adulteration AduIteration of of butter butter - Like Like many
many other other quality quality foods, foods, to fraudulent butter butter used
used to to lend lend itself itselfto fraudulent falsification. falsification. Now
Now that that industrial indus trial manufacture manufacture (subject (subject to
to strict strict controls) controls) has has insufficient is danger replaced
replaced farm farrn production, production, the the only only danger is
insufficient working working of of the the butter butter mass, mass, leaving
leaving a a residue residue of of buttermilk butterrnilk and and water water in in
excess excess of of 18 18 per per cent; cent; or, or, in in the the case case of of
farm farm butters, butters, the the addition addition of of preservatives,
preservatives, such such as as boric boric acid. acid. The The a temperature, high
prolonged at too effects effects of of prolonged storage storage at too high a
temperature, possibly possibly near near other other foodstuffs, foodstuffs, is is
also also a a factor factor that that cannot cannot be be may, at ignored. ignored.
Finally, Finally, cattle-food cattle-food may, at certain certain periods periods
of of the the year, year, produce produce peculiar peculiar odours odours and and
taste; tas te; these, these, however, however, can can be be eliminated eliminated
by by industrial industrial processes. processes. The most The most frequent
frequent type type of of adulteration adulteration is is that that which which
gives gives greasy, rancid or poisonous rise a greasy, rancid or poisonous taste,
tas te, the the consequences consequences rise to to a (more frequently) careless
productiori, of careless of productiort, or or (more frequently) prolonged
prolonged a choosing a can be These drawbacks drawbacks can storage. These storage.
be eliminated eliminated by by choosing good brand a good and a reliable retailer
reliable retailer and brand of of butter. butter. of There are are various of
butter Preservation of Preservation butter - There various methods methods of
salting common being preserving two of of the butter, two preserving butter, the
most most common being salting and amalgamation. amalgamation. and quantity offine
into salt into of fine salt a quantity working a by working is done done by butter
is Salted butter SalLed per (3 to 5 per to 5 butters (3 demi'sel butters There are
are two two types: types r demi-sel butter. There the butter. the or Demi-sel or (8
to per cent cent salt). salt\. Demi-sel l0 per to 10 butters (8 and salted salted
butters cent salt) salt) and cent for cooking. cooking. most suitable suitable for
are the the most salted are salted in a a amalgamation in is effected effected by
butter is Amalgamated butter AmalgamaLed by amalgamation The second second heat.
The processed over intense heat. over intense or processed bain-marie, or bain-
marie, qualities, keeping qualities, gives a product that has superior superior
keeping that has a product method gives method flavour. process to the the flavour.
detrimental to is detrimental but the the pro but cess is purposes; the the cooking
purposes; for cooking clarified for frequently c1arified Butter is is frequently
Butter in contained in precipitating the the casein casein contained is evaporated,
water is evaporated, precipitating water

Modern Modern butter bUlter factory factory (Rayor) (Rayol)

This mass in the churn chum exudes a quantity quantity of of watery watery liquid
liquid called buttermilk, buttermilk, which is drawn off. The The remaining
remaining solid solid is rinsed rinsed in pure water while still in in the churn,
churn, then then worked worked until a a homogenous butter is obtained. obtained.
fresh from The cream may be be churned fresh from the cow, cow, but but the quality
and and yield of of the quality the butter are are definitely definitely improved
improved by by of maturaDuring this period allowing the cream to mature. During
period of maturaof under the sour under slightly som turns slightly tion the cream
cream turns tion the the influence influence of of maturing farm production
ferments. This This farrn lactic lactic ferments. production method of maturing
manuis still observed in the industrial the cream before use is indus trial
manupreis prematuration is latter case, case, maturation in the latter but, in
facture of butter but, facture which ensures ensures ceded by heat treatment called
pasteurisation, ceded pasteurisation, which Very high high and and conpossible
microbes. of possible the destruction destruction of the microbes. Very yeasts
sowing yeasts quality is subsequently sowing is obtained obtained by sistent
quality sistent by subsequently in the butter. the butter. and flavouring
flavouring elements in containing acidifying and containing

lightly can be be lightly food can butter, food clarified butter, using c1arified
By using the butter. butter. By the and, the the butter butter overbrowning and,
without overbrowning fried or saut6ed without or sautéed fried and causing spitting
spitting and without causing dehydrated, without having been been dehydrated,
having fat. of fat. splutterings of splutterings CLARIFICATION. butter -- See See
CLARIFICATION. of butter Clarification of Clarification
These must vfc6rnuxneunnss VÉGÉTAUX VEGETABLE BUTTERS. BEURRES VEGET ABLE BUTTERS.
- These must labelled be labelled but should should be butter, but name of of
butter, not be the name be sold sold under under the not given a name. 'vegetable
fat' a trade trade name. fat'or 'vegetable or given consistency to to give a semi-
solid consistency possible a solid solid or or semi-solid to give It is is possi It
ble to of hydrogenation of the hydrogenation For example, example, the vegetable
oils. oils. For certain vegetable certain produces a a as a a catalyst, catalyst,
produces mousse as nickel mousse oil, using using nickel cottonseed oil, cottonseed
American of American imitation of in imitation lard -- in or lard butter or kind of
artificial butter of artificiaJ kind lard. lard. Fatty substance substance DE CACAO
cACAo -- Fatty BEURRE DE butter. BEURRE Cocoa butter. Cocoa in the form of of It is
is sold sold in the forrn roasted cocoa cocoa beans. beans. It from roasted
obtained from obtained like pleasant taste, taste, like and pleasant sweet and with
aa sweet blocks, with rectangular blocks, rectangular 30'C. between 30°e. at aa
temperature temperature between It melts melts at chocolate. It that of of
chocolate. that at aa cooling at (91"F.) and liquid by by cooling (86"F.) and and
stays stays liquid 33"C. (91'F.) and 33"e. (86)F.) (73' F.). F. ). at 23' C. (73
lower temperature, solidifying at temperature, solidifying lower
is brands, is several brands, are several product, of which there there are of
which This product, This and is is no water water and It con contains well. It very
weil. and keeps keeps very sterilised and sterilised tains no

packets of butter Blocks and and packels of buller Blocks (Rayot. Phol. Phot.
Nicolas) Nicolas) (Rayol.

packed machine packed is usually butter is usually machine retail distribution.

distribution, butter For retail For it has has to to be be regulations, it satisty
trade trade regulations, in blocks blocks and and to to satisl'y in paper or
greaseproof paper or protected from by greaseproof contamination by from
contamination protected packed in in waxed waxed are often often packed and demi-
sel demi-sel butters butters are Salted and tinfoil. Salted tinfoil. cardboard
cartons. cartons. cardboard good butter have aa semi-soft semi-soft should have A
good butter should butter -- A of butter Quality Quality of 'sweat' not to to
'sweat' and ought ought not at room room temperature temperature and consistency at
consistency proportion of of (an indication high aa proportion it contains contains
too too high indication that that it (an

ne.

t67 167
tsUTTER BUTTER
easily digestible, digestible, perhaps more so than ordinary butter. butter. Its
Its taste is neutral neutral and can in no way be r,...,Mn.<l,-,"'; compared 10 to
that that of of tasle butter. buller. Coconut butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE
COCO coco -- A vegetable butter A vegetable butter Coconut frequently used
(albuminous lining used in in France. France. The The copra (albuminous lining of
of the interior of of the the cocon coconut), put under and put pressure, under
pressure, ut), dried and yields an an oil oil used used in in soap-making. soap-
making. After After bleaching bleaching and and yîelds various other processes the
other processes the oil oil is is transformed transformed înto into an an edible
edible various product offirm of firm consisteocy, consistency, which which looks
looks like like butter. butter. producl Nutmeg butter. butter. BEURRE BETJRRE DE DE
MUSCADE MUscADn -- Fatty Fatty substance substance Nutmeg obtained from from
nutmegs, nutmegs, sold sold in in the the form form of rectangular of rectangular
obtained loaves covered covered with palm leaves. with palm leaves. loaves Walnut
butter, butter, hazelnut hazelnut butter, peanut butter. butter, peanut butter.
BEURRE BEURRE DE DE Walmrt NoDq NorsETTEs, ARAcHTDES -- Factory-made Factory-made
products, NOIX, NOISETIES, ARACHIDES in nutritive high in nutritive value. value.
high (1) Butters COMPOUND BUTTERS. BUTTERS. BEURRES srunnEs COMPOSts coMposfu --
(1) Butters COMPOUND mixed with with one generally reduced one or or more more
substances, substances, generally reduced to to a a mixe<! (2) Butters pur6e or or
chopped. (2) Butters cooked cooked to various degrees, or to various or purée
melted, seasoned and and served served spiced; as as accompaniment to to melted,
various fish, fish, meat meat and and vegetable dishes. dishes. various Compound
butters butters of of the the tirs! first category category are are used either in
in used either Compound garnish for sauces and and various various dishes, dishes,
or as gamish or a~ for cold cold horshorssauces (5 oz, blanched shallols. shallots.
Add g.(5 Add J150 oz.,l0 tablespoons) butter. butter. blanched 50 g. 10
tablespoons) Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Rub Uses. In In white
white sauces garnish for sauces and and as as aa garnish for cold cold
horsftarsUses. d'euvre.It issometimes sometimes ca called beurre ravigote.
ravigote. d·œuvre. Il is lied beurre Colbert butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE COLBERT
coLBERT -- Prepare hepare Mat/re Maitre d'hôlel d'h6tel Colbert (see below), butter
(see below). Add Add !I leaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped tarragon tarragon and and
1 I huiler jelly for tablespoon dissolve(] dissolved meat meat jelly (4 oz" g. (4
for 100 100 g. oz., -1 cup) lablespoon * cup) butter. butter. Uses. Accompaniment
Accompaniment for for frie<! fried fish fish à d la la Colbert for Colbert and and
for Uses grilled meat meat and and fish. fish. grilled Crab butter. butter. BEURRE
BEURRE DE DE CRABES cnl,nEs -- Prepare Prepare and and use use as as Shrimp Shrimp
Crab (see below), butter (see below), using using small small crabs crabs which
which have have been been cooked cooked buller in couri-boulllon c our t -b ouillon
(q.v.) (q.v .) and and drained. drained. in Crayfish butter (cold). BEURRE butter
(cold). (.4, FROID) BEURRE D'ÉCREVlSSES o'fcnnvrssns (À rnon) -Crayfish Prepare and
and use use as (see below), as Shrimp (cold) (see Shrimp huiler butter (cold)
below), usÎng using Prepare shells and and trimmings of of crayfish crayfish cooked
cooked à d la la mirepoix. miTepoix. shells Crayfish buffer (hot). BEURRE (A CHAUD)
nnunne D'ÉCREYlSSES n'fcnsvrssrs (À cmuo) -Pound in in a a mortar mortar the shells
shells and and trimmings trimmings of of craynsh crayfish (the lails cooked à d la
Ia mirepOl'K: mirepolx (the tails being being used used for for some some other
other cooked Add the dish). Add the same same amount amount of fresh butter of
fresh butter and and blend blend weIl. well. dish), Put the mixture in in a a small
small saucepan saucepan standing in a pan standing in a larger larger pan Put hot
water, allowing of hot allowing the the cray6sh crayfish butter butter 10 melt
slowly. to melt slowly. of When il it is is completely completely melted, melted,
pour pow it it through through a a clolh cloth When secured over over a bowl of
Îced icod waler. water. TwÎst Twist lhe the cJoth cloth to squeeze squeeze secured
out ail all the the butter. This will will solidify in in the icy water, the icy
water, when il it oui can be spooned out out of of 1 the and dried dried on on a a
muslin cloth. cloth. cao he bowl and Uses. Add Add ta gravies, thick to sauces,
sauces, gravies, fish thick shellfish shellfish soups, soups, flsh Uses. forcemeats
and and shellfish shellfish ragoûts. ragoftts. Crayfish butters form form the
forcemeats basis d la Nantua. basis for the sauce called à Filbert butter. butter.
BEURRE BEURRE D'AVELTNEs Prepare in in the the sa same FBbert D'AVEl..lNES me -
Prepare way as as Almond butter.It has the the same same uses. Almond buller. lt
has Garlic butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'ArL and dry D'AIL Peel, blanch, blanch. drain
and - Peel, 8 large large cloves garlic, and cloves garlic, pound in and pound in a
a mortar mortar with 2AO g. 8 with 200 (7 oz., oz., scant (7 seant cup) fresh fresh
butter. butter. Rub through a sieve. Uses. For celtain sauces, for cold cold
horsUses. For certain sauces, and as garnish for

d euvre. d'œuvre. Almond butter. butter. BEU~RE (3 oz., BEURRE D'AMANDES D'AMANDEs
-- Pound Pound 75 75 g. (3 oz., Almooo cup) sweet sweet blanched and washed washed
almonds paste, blanched and almonds to to a a fine paste, 3 cup) ~ adding a few
drops a few drops of water to prevent them of cold cold watc( to prevent them
tuming turning adding (5 oz" g. (5 oily. Add Add 150 150 g. oz.,l0 tablespoons)
butter. Rub through butter. Rub through 10 tablespoons) a fine Sleve. sieve. a
garnish for Uses. As for cold cold hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, and and as as an an
addition addition Uses. As garnÎsh to soups soupe and and sorne some white white
sauces. sauces. 10 Anchory butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'ANCHOIS D'.q,NcHors
Desalt and g. and dry dry 75 75 g. - Desalt Ancbovy (3 oz.) anchovy anchovy fillets
and pound a mortar with (3 flllets and pound them lhem in in a mortar with 2N oz.,
scant scant cup) a fine sieve. 200 g g Q oz., cup) butter. buller. Rub Rub through
a fine sieve. Uses. As for Gar/ic (see below). Anehovy Garlic butter Anchovy Uses.
As indicated indicated for buller (see good aecompaniment butter a good
accompaniment for gdlled fish butter is is also also a for grilled fish and and
meat. meat. Bercy Bucy butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE BERcy BERCY - Add Add l] 11
tablespoons finely finely chopped pint, scant cup) chopped shallots shaHots to 10 2
2 dl. dl. (| (~ pint, seant cup) white wine wine and and boil by half. half. When
When the the liquor liquor is i.s almost almosl cold, eold, add add boil down down
by (7 g. 200 oz' 200 (7 oz., scant seant cup) softened softened butter butter and
and 500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz.) oz.) beef bone-marrotv which has has been been cut
eut in in dice, diœ, poached in in salted salted water water and and drained.
drained. Add Add 1 ! tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley parsley and and the the
juice juiœ of of half half a a lemon. lemon. Season Season with with I 1 teaspoon
teaspoon fine fine salt sail and and a a pinch pineh offreshly of freshly gpound
ground pepper. pepper. Uses. Uses. Accompaniment Aecompaniment for for grilled
grilled fish fish and and meat. meaL Brown BroWl1 butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE NorR
NOIR - Cook Cook 150 150 g. (5 (5 oz.,l0 oz., 10 tabletablespoons) butter butter to
to a a dark dark brown brown colour. col our. Add 2 2 tablespoons tabJespoons (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) washed washed and and dried dried parsley parsley leaves
leaves and and IJ tablespoon tablespoon capers. capers. Pour Pour the the butter
butter into into a a sauceboat sauce boat or or over over the the food food with
with which which it il !s !S to to be be served, served, and and add add a a
tablespoon tab!espoon vinegar heated in the the same same pan. pan, heated in Uses.
Brown Brown butter butter is is served served with with eggs; eggs; various various
fish; fish; vegetables boiled in salted salted water; water; brains; brains; and
and a a number number of of vegetables boiled in other other dishes. dishes. For
For eggs eggs with with browned browned butter buller omit omit the the parsley
parsley and and the the capers. Caviare butter. BETJRRE DE g. (3 butter. BEURRE DE
cAvrAR CAYlAR - Pound Pound 75 75 g. (3 oz) oz.) pressed caviare in a mortar. Add
150 g. (5 oz., l0 tablespoons) caviare În a mortar. Add 150 g. (5 oz., 10
lablespoons) butter, and weIL Rub Rub through Ihrough a a fine fine sieve. sieve.
and blend b!end well. Uses. Uses. As As a a garnish garnish for for canapds d à la
la russe rllsse and and for for various various cold hors-d'euvre, and for certain
fish forcemeat. cold hors-d'œuvre, and for fish forcemeat. Chive Chive butter.
butter. BETJRRE BEURRE DE DE crBoulErrr CIBOULETTE _. Prepare Prepare and and use
use as as Shallot Shallo/ butter buller (see (seebelow), below), using using green
green chives. chÎves. Chivry Cb.lvry butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE cHrvRy CHIVR y -
Blanch Blanch 15 15 g. g. (* (t oz.) oz.) each each of of parsley, parsley,
tarragon tarragon and and chervil cherviJ leaves, leaves, fresh fresh burnet burnet
and and chives for 3 minutes chives for 3 minutes in in salted sa!ted water. water.
Drain, Drain, dip in in cold cold water, water. and and dry. dry. Pound Pound in in
a a mortar mortarwith wi Ih 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,* oz., cup) cup) chopped,
chopped.
168 168

d'uuvre. d'œuvre.

drained, pounded with with a a little little butter, and and seasoned. seasoned.
Uses. Uses. For seasoning seasoning kidney kidney beans and for sprinkling over
grilled grilled mushrooms. mushrooms. Green Green butter. BEURRE nEURRE VERT VERT -
Wash Wash and dry spinach spinach leaves leaves and and pound pound them them in a
mortar. mortaL Put into a strong strong cloth, cio th, twist to to extract all ail
the the juice; juiee; pour pour this this into into a double saucepan to to
thicken. thicken. Turn out OuI onto onto a a muslin muslin cloth c10lh stretched
stretched over over a bowl, and and filter. filler. Scrape off off the the green
green residue residue which which remains on the the cloth; cloth; this this is IS
called called vert vert d'ipinard d'epinard (spinach (spinach green). green). Add
Add double of softened butter butter which which has has been been rubbed rubbed
double its ils weight weight of through th.rough a a sieve. steve. Uses. Uses. As
As for for Chivry Chivry butter buller and and Montpellier Mon/pellier butter
buller (see (see below). below). Hazelnut Hazehml butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE
DE NoTsETTE NOISETIE - Prepare Prepare and and use use like like Almond Almond
butter, butter, using using lightly lightly roasted roasted hazelnuts hazelnuls or
or filbert filbert nuts. nUIS. Herring HcrrÎng butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DB
HARENG HARENG - Made Made of fillets fiUets of of pickled pickled herrings,
herrings, as as Anchovy Anchovy butter bUller and and used used in in the the same
same ways. ways. Horseradish Horseradish butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE
RATFoRT RAIFORT - Pound Pound in in a a mortar mortar 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz.,
It cup) cup) grated grated horseradish. horseradish. Add Add 2ffi 200 g. g. (7 (7
oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup) butter. butter. Rub Rub through through a a sieve.
sieve. Uses. Uses. As As for for Garlic Gar/ic butter. bUller. Kneaded Kneaded
butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE ru.lNd MAl'JrÉ - Blend Blend 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz.,
oz., 6 6 tablespoons) lablespoons) butter butter and and 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,
oz., I! cup) cu p) flour ftour into in to a a smooth smooth paste. paste. Uses.
Uses. To To bind bind some some sauces, sauces, notably notably those those called
called ri à /a la
matelote. matelole.

Gascogne GAscocxn Gascogne butter. butter. BEURRE BEUR.RE DE DE GASCOGNE - Prepare

with garlic, which wh.ich is is first cooked for a a few minutes minUles in salted
water. water,

of of 1 1lemon lemon to to 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup)
butter. butter. Season with wllh
salt salt and and white white pepper. pepper. Blend Blend well. well.

Lemon Lemoo butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE crrRoN CrTRON - Add Add finely
grated rind rind
BUTTER BUTTER
Uses. This This is is a a garnish garnish for for cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre.

Lobster Lobsler butter butter (cold). (cold). BEURRE BEURRE DE DE HoMARD HOMARD (A
(À rnon) FROID) Using Using the the creamy ereaml' parts, parts, the the eggs and
and the the coral of of the the lobster lobster cooked in court-bouillon court-
bouillon (q.v.), proceed proceed as as described described in in recipe recipe
cooked in for Shrimp Shrimp butter (cold) (see (see below). Use in in the the same
same ways. ways. Lobster Lobstcr butter butter (hot). (Ilot). rnunnE DeuRRE
D'HoMARD D'HOMARD· (A (À ctt.r'uo) Usrng Using shells and and trimmings of lobster,
lobster, which which have have been cooked in in court-bouillon court-bouillon
(q.v.) (q.v.) or or d il ln 10 mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.), cooked prepare asfor
prepare and and use as for Crayfish Crayfish butter bWler (hot). This butter butter
is is often called red red colouring butter, butter, which is prepared prepared by
bl' pounding pounding together together in in a a mortar mortar the lhe coral, or
eggs, of of various various shellfish which which have have been been cooked rn in
coartcour/eggs, bouillon with an equal quantity quantitl' of butter. butter. Maltr€
Maitre d'hOtel d'hôlel butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE A À rn LA M,liTRE MAÎTRE
D'HOIEL D'HÔTEL - Mix 2N 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup) fresh
fresh butter with with l| I~ tablespoons small pinch chopped choppcd parsley,
parsley, I :t teaspoon fine fine salt, salt, a a smaU pinch of a dash freshly
ground ground pepper pepper and a dash of lemon juice. juice. Stir with a spoon
until untiJ it forms a smooth paste. Uses. Accompaniment for grilled meat meal and
fish, fish. fish fried in egg and breadcrumbs, and various boiled vegetables.
vegetab!es. Melted maltre hbtel butter maître d d'hôtel buller may mal' be he
served separately separalely or put on or under the ingredients which it
accompanies. accompanies. Marchand Marchand de de vire "ins butter. butter. BEURRE
BEURRE MARcHAND MAN.CHAND DE DE vINs VINS g. (l cup) shallots to Add Add 25 25 g.
(1 o2.,1 oz., cup) finely finely chopped shallots 10 3 dl. (| (! pint, pi n t. l|
1~ cups) red wine and boil slowly down to halfha If. Add 2 tablespoons a dissolved
meat a tablespoon tablespoon dissolved meat jelly jeUl' or or 2 tablespoons (3 (5
oz., tablestock, 150 g. (5 tables po ons) rich brown brov,Tl veal veal stock, OZ.,
l0 IOta bletablespoons) softened to a 1 tablespoon chopped spoons) buller softened
a paste, paste, I spoons) butter parsley, and the of quarter of a lemon. Season
with salt the juice juice of and pepper, and and blend well. and weil. ri la
marchand marchand steak à Uses. Accompaniment Accompaniment for grilled rump steak
de de vins. vins. Marseille BEURRE DE MARSEILLE Marseille butter. BEUi<RE - Name
ironically garlic is for oiL way as as garlic used for oil, in in the same way the
same is referred rererred to to as used Marseille vanilla. season FoNDU Melt butter
slowly, season BEURRE FONDU Melted butter. BEURRE - Mel! of of white pepper, and
add a few drops of with salt and a pinch ofwhite lemon juice. lemon fish and and
hoiled boiled for poached Uses. Accompaniment Uses. Accompanimenr for poached fish
vegetables. a unuNdnr -A LA n MEUNIÈRE Meunidre butter. BEURRE BEURRE À Meunière -
Heat butter in a a dash dash of Add a of pan until light brown colour. Add it
acquires a a light brown colour. until it juice and salt lemon JUlce and pepper.
salt and prepared à rneuniire fish prepared d la la meunière for fish Accompaniment
for Uses. Accompaniment Uses. (see BASS, and for for certain vegetables, meuniire)
and BASS, Bass Bass à d la la meunière) (see poached or in butter. or simmered
simmered in poached Blanch in in BEURRE DE DE MONTPELLlER MoNTPELLIER _. butter.
BEURRE Montpellier Montpellier butter. - Blanch 20 picked ovcr washed: 20 over and
and washed; water the following herbs, pîcked salted salted water (1 g. (l 25 g.
chives, 25 cress, tarragon, chives. each parsley, chervil, cress, g. (i oz.) each
eoz.) zl0 g. (ll oz., g. (It chopped o2.,6 tablespoons) chopped leaves, and 40 oz.)
spinach Icaves, oz.) 6 tablespoons) shallot. press well all the well to to extract
extract ail dip in in cold cold water, water, and and press Drain, dip gherkins,
adding 3 medium-sized gherkins, in a a mortar, mortar, adding 3 medium-sized water.
pound Pound in waler. anchovy flUets, fillets, capers,4 desalted anchovy tablespoon
well-pressed well-pressed ca lI tablespoon pers, 4 desalted garlic clove. I smalJ
and 1 small garlic clove. and reduced to a smooth have been to a smooth all the
been reduced When ail the ingredients have When (l* lb., g. (lt paste, add lb., 3t
cups) butter. 3 hard3] cups) butter, 3 add 10 to (hem them 750 750 g. paste, yolks.
yolks and raw egg and 2 2 raw egg yolks. egg l'o!ks boiled egg pestle, add pounding
with little 2 2 dl. dl. a pestle, add little little by by little with a Still
pounding Still (| pint, pinch of pint, seant with salt and a a pinch oil. Season
Season with salt and of scant cup) olive olive oil. (1 quite pepper. Rub through a
a fine fine sieve. Whisk \Inti] until quite cayenne pepper. sieve. Whisk cayenne
smooth. smooth. fish. Uses. MainIl' Mainly for for dressing dressing cold cold
dishes dishes particularly fish, Uses_ prepared specîally for is prepared specially
for when Montpellier Montpellier buller butter is However, when raw cro0tons, raw
decorating cold and for for spreading spreading on on croÎltons, cold dÎshes dishes
and decoraling yolks and egg l'olks and oil omitted. oil are are omitted. egg g.
150 g. BEURRE DE DE CHAMP1GNONS cHAMpIcNoNs -Slice 150 butter. BEURRE Mushroom
Mushroom butter. - Slice (5 oz., in bUller, mushrooms; toss briskly in butter, toss
briskly cups) cullivated cultivated mushrooms; (5 Il cups) oz.,l|
169 169

season season with wÎth salt and and pepper, peppeT, and and pound pound in in a
mortar. mortar. Add Add 150 J 50 g. g. (5 o2.,10 OZ., JO tablespoons) tables po
ons) fresh fresh butter, butter, blend blend and and rub rub through through a fine
tîne sieve. sieve. Uses. Uses. Addition Addition to to white white sauce sauce and
and garnish garnish for for cold cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Mustard Mustard
butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE MoUTARDEMOüT AR DE - Add Add 2 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) mustard mustard to 10 200 g. g, (7 (7
oz., OZ., scant seant cup) cup) butter butter softened to to a paste. paste. Blend
well. weiL Uses. The same as those those for Anchovy Anchovy butter. butter.

Noisette butter. BEURRE BEURRE NoIsETTE NOISETTE - Cook butter butter to to a a

light light hazelnut colom. hazelnut colour. Uses. Uses. Poured Poured over eggs,
eggs, lambs' or 0( calves' brains, brains, skate skate cooked in court-bouillon
court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), soft soft roes, roes. and and vegetables vegetables
cooked in cooked in water water and well drained. The juice juice of of a lemon
Jemon is is squeezed into it it if if served separately. separately. Paprika
butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE IAIRIKA PAPRIKA - Blend Blel1d into into a a smooth
paste pasle 200 g. (7 (7 oz., scant cup) butter, butler) seasoned seasoned with
with I ) tablelablespoon paprika. paprika. Uses. Uses, Garnish Garnish for canapis
canapés and other cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d·œUI:re. Pistachio Pistacbio butter.
butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE plsrActtrs PISTACIfES - Prepard Prepared like like
Almond butter, using blanched pistachio A lmond hUiler, piSlachio nuts. nuls. Uses.
The same as as Almond Almond butter. a mortar Printanier Printanier butter. BEURRE
BEURRE pRINTANIER PRlNTANIER - Pound in a mortar an equal quantity ofbutter of
butter and green green vegetables Vo;;;~;"''''U''Q (green peas, asparagus asparagus
tips, French beans, beans, etc.) which have been cooked a fine and dried. in water,
wClter, drained drained and dried. Blend, and and rub through a sieve. hors-
d'euvre; addition Uses. Garnish for cold hors-d'œuvre; addition to thickened soups
and sorne white sauces. and some for Chivry Chivry Ravigote butter. butter. BEURRE
BEURRE RAVIGoTE RAVIGOTE Name for - Name butter. buller, given to I'obster butter
Red butter. BEURRE BEURRE RoucE ROUGE·Lobs/er hutter - Name given shellfish. and
and butter mixed with other shellflsh. smoked sAUMoN Salmon butter. BEURRE BEURRE
DE SAUMON - Using fresh or smoked Anchovy buller. butter. the recipe for Anchovy
salmon, proceed salmon, proceed as described in [he Use in the same ways. Prepared
and and used used DE SARDli'..'ES sARDINEs Sardine butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE -
Prepared oil. llke Anchovy fillets of of sardines in oil. butter, using flllets
Anchovy bUller, like drain o'Ecrulorn Shallot butter. BEURRE ShaLlot 6EURRE
D'ÉCHALOTE - Shred, blanch, drain pound them in a a morlar. mortar. Add the and
pound them in and dry dry 8 8 shallots and and Add the a fine rub through through a
and wb same weight of butter and fine sieve. same grilled meal meat and and fish.
to grilled Uses. Accompaniment !O Uses. (A FROID) (cold). BEURRE rnoro) DE
CREVETTES cREvErrEs (À BEURRE DE butter (cold). Shrimp butter Shrimp an (5 oz.) in
a a mortar mortar with with an g. (5 150 g. cooked shrimps in oz.) eooked Pound 150
Pound fine sieve. Rub through a a fine amount of butter. butter. Rub equal amollnt
equal garnish for ftorsfor cold cold horsand garnish fish sauces, sauces, and Uses.
Addition Addition to to fish USd. cold fish. d'euvre and and cold d'œuvre (A CHAUD)
(hot). BEURRE cru'uo) -DE CREVETTES cREvErrEs (À snuRRE DE butter (bot). Shrimp
hutter prepare in way as as Crayjish Crayfish in the the same same way cooked
shrimps, prepare Using cooked

(hot). butter (hol). bUlfer (hot). for Crayfish butter (hot). as for The same
Crayfish butler Uses. The same as Uses.

may he be case of of other other shellfish, shellfish, mal' as in in the the case
Shrimp butter. butter, as is needed needed for for some flesh is if the the flesh
made using only shells, if the shells, only the other dish. PouR BEURRE POUR
bourguignonne. BEURRE la bourguignonne. Butter for for snails, snailg à i la Butter
following Add the the following A LA r,c, BOURGUIGNONNE soURGUIGNoNNE DscARGors, Â
ESCARGOTS, - Add (l+ g. (1 lb., 3 3 cups) cups) best best unsalted unsalted butter:
ingredients to to 700 700 g. t lb., garlic eloI/es 2 garlic cloves chopped
shallols, shallots, 2 finely chopped cup) fineJy 75 g. oz., i Q oz., e. (3 I cup)
(3 tabJespoons) chopped paste, 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons) chopped into paste,
tdrblespoons (3 pounded into pepper. and -} parsley. Season teaspoon pepper. salt
and 4 teaspoons salt Season with 4 parslel'. ] teaspoon Blend weil. well. Blend
bourguignonne. cookedd la bourguÎgnonne, escargot shells shells cooked Uses. For
filling escargol Uses. à la is This butter butter is BEURRE DE DE LA1TANCES
LAITANcns -- Thîs Soft roe roe butter. butter. BEURRE Soft quantities prepared bl'
in a a morrar mortar equal quantilies by pounding together in prepared a through a
roes ofpickled herrings and and butter, rubbed lhrough ofsoft of soft roes sieve.
sieve. prepared bl' pounding in g. in a a mortar mortar 125 125 g. It can by
poundîng can also also he be prepared H (especially those (4 Oz.) carp), roes of
various fish fish (especÎally those or of carp), oz.) soft of various soft roes (4
BUTTER CREAMS CREAMS BUTTER
poached, cooled cooled and (7OZ., and weil well dried, dried, with with 200 200 g.
cup) oz., scant scant cup) E (7 poached, butter. butter. Uses. It It is is added
added to to sorne some fish fish sauces sauces and and used used as as a agarnish
sarnish Uses. for cold cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'cuvre for Spiny lobster lobster
butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE LANGOUSTE LANGousrE -- Prepare, Prepare, using
using SpÎny shells and and trimmings trimmings of of the (U.S. crayfIsh) the spiny
spiny lobster lobster (U.S. crayfish) as as for for shells Lobster buller. butter.
Use Use in in the the same same ways. ways. Lobsler porvRoNs DOl)}: pimento butter.
Sweet pimento butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE POIVRONS Eorrx -- Pound Pound Sweet (5
oz.) finely in in a a mortar mortar 150 g. (5 150 g. pimentos (red (red or oz.)
sweet sweet pimentos green) or green) finely previously stewed stewed În in butter.
(7 OZ., butter. Add g. (7 Add 200 200 g. oz., seant scant cup) cup) previously
butter and and rub rub through through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. butter Uses. The
The same same as as for for Carlit Garlic buller. butter. Uses. Tarragon botter.
butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'ESTRAGON· D'EsrRAcoN - Blanch g. (4 (4 Blanch 125 125 g.
TarragoD oz.) fresh fresh larragon tarragon leaves leaves for for 2 2 minutes
minutes in in salted boiling salted boiling oz.) water. Orain, Drain, dip dip in in
cold pound in cold waler, water, dry, dry, and and pound in a a lllortar mortar
water. g. (7 (7 OZ., with 200 200 g. oz., seant cup) fresh fresh butter. scant cup)
butter. Rub Rub through a fine fine through a with sieve. sieve. Uses. Addition
Addition to to various various sauces, garnish for sauces, and and garnish for cold
cold Uses. hors-deuvre, especially (see HORSespecially Canapé.~ Canapes à d la
russe (see Ia russe HORShors-d'œuvre, D'(EUVRE, Cold Co ld hors-d'œuvre). hors- d'
euvr e). D'ŒUVRE, Tomato butter, butter. BEURRE BEURRE DI; DE TOMATES roMArEs --
Soften (7 OZ., g. (7 Soften 200 200 g. oz., Tomato cup) bulter, scant cup) butter,
add add 2 2 dl. pint, dl. (1 scant cup) cup) concentrated concentrated Q pin seant
t, seant juice, and tomato juice, and blend blend weil. well. tomato Uses. The The
same same as as for for AnchO}:y Anchovy bUller. butter. It It is is also also used
used for for Use.ç. thickening soups and white soups and white sauces. sauces.
thîckening Trufre butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE TRUFFES TRUFFEs Pound in in a
a morlar mortar - Pound Truffle (4 oz.) g. (4 l@ g. oz.) fresh fresh truffies (5
OZ., g. (5 truffies with with 150 150 g. oz-,10 tablespoons) 100 10 tablespoons)
butter. Rub Rub through through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. butter. Garnish for
Uses. Garnish for canapes canapis and and other other co cold hors-d uuvre. Uses.
Id hOH-d'œul're. (tuna fish) Tunny (tuna fish) butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE
THON THoN Prepare as as Tunny - Prepare Anchovy butter, using tunny in in oil. oil.
Anchovy buller, using IUnny Uses. The The same same as as for for Anchovy butter.
Uses. Anchovy buller. Walnut DE NOIX NoD( as Almond WalDut butter. butter. BEURRE
BEURRE DE - Prepare Prepare as A/mond butter, using dried, blanched walnuts.
bUl/er, using dricd, blanched walnuts. Uses. The as for for Almond butter. Uses.
The same sa me as Almond butter. White See PIKE. au beurre beurre White butter.
butter. BEURRE BEURRE BLANc RLANC - See PIKE, Pike Pik.e au blanc. blanc.

BUTTERMILK. BABEURRE sassuRRE -- Milk Milk which which is is left left after after
BUTIERMILK. churning butter. product di.ffers, butter. This This product differs,
depending depending on on whether whether churning fresh or or sour sour milk milk
is is being being churned, churned, and and on on wbether whether the the fresh
cream is is taken taken off off by by centrifugaI centrifugal machillery.
machinery. cream Buttermilk contains contains ail all the the casein casein of of
milk. milk. This This casein, casein, Buttermilk following acidificatÎon,
acidification, undergoes undergoes changes changes which which render render it it
following more soluble soluble and and more more digestible. digestible. It It
contains contains aJl all the the mineraI mineral more salts found found in in milk
milk and proportion of and a a proportion lactose which of lactose which has has
salts yet been not yet been transformed transformed into into lactic lactic acid.
acid. not Buttermilk S<lup. soup. SOUPE soupE DE DE RABEl.JRRE BABEURRE -- Mix Mix
a little flour a liule flour Buttermilk (wheat, barley, barley, rice, rice, etc.)
etc.) allowing allowing one one tablespoon per litre tablespoon per litre (wheat,
(scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) in quantity of in a a smaU
small quantity cold (seant of cold buttermilk, blending blending to to avoid avoid
lumps. lumps. Add Add to to heated heated butterbutterbuttermilk, milk, and and
bring bring slowly slowly to to the the boil. boil. Boil quarter, Boil down down by
by one one quarter, milk, and sweeten sweeten with with sugar, sugar, allowing
allowing 70 g. (2!(29 to 70 to to 90 90 g. to 31 3l oz.) oz.) and (scant quart, per
litre sugar per litre (seant quart, generous generous quart). quart). sugar The
object object of adding flour of adding flour is is to globules of to break break
up up the the globules The of casein and and thus thus make make it it more more
digestible. digestible. Prepared Prepared in in this this casein way, buttermilk
buttermilk soup soup has has a a nutritive value value to to a a considerable
considerable way, extent approaching that that or of human human milk. extent
BUTYRIC ACID. ACID. BUTYRIQUE BUryRreuE -- Acid Acid which which develops develops
in in BUTYRIC butter by by oxidation, oxidation, and and which which causes causes
it it to to become become rancid. butter BUTYROMETER. BUTYROMÈTRE suryRoMErns --
Instrument Instrument consisting consisting BUTYROMETER. glass tube of a a
calibrated glass tube for for measuring the the butter butter content of of milk.
ofmilk. The milk milk is is mixed with with a a certain volume volume of of ether
ether which The dissolves the the butter. butter. Then Then an an equal equal
volume volume of of alcohol alcohol is dissolves on the surrace form of an surface
in the fonn an oily added. The butter floats on layer and its th.ickness, and its
thickness, measured graduation of the by the the graduation layer measured by
proportion of butter. tube, clearly shows the the proportion butter. tube.
BUTYROUS. surynelx BUTYROUS. BUTYREUX appearance of butter. butter. a ppearance of
-

consistency Having the the consistency - Having

and and

BUTTER BUTTER CREAMS CREAMS - See See CREAMS. CREAMS.

BEURRTER BWR..RIER - Small Small dish dish used used for for serving serving butter
butter on on the the table. table. Some Sorne butter butter dishes dishes are are
made made in in such such a a way way that that the the butter butter is is always
always kept kept under under salted salted water. water. Thus Thus enclosed,
enclosed, the the butter butter can can be be kept kept fresh frcsh for for a a
longer longer period. period. There There are are more more modern modern types
types consisting consisting of of a a double-walled, double-walled, bell-shaped
bell-shaped cover cover in in porous porous earthenware earthenware filled fiJled
with with water, water, which which is is changed changed every every day. day.
This This cover coyer is is placed placed over over the the

BUTTER BUITER DISH. DISH.

BUVETTE This was the name given given to the small refreshrefreshBUVETTE - This
ment existed under the Ancien ment bars bars that that existed under the Anciel/
Rigime Régime in in the judicial judicial high high courts. courts. They were
necessary at a time when the judges and sat sat often judges assembled very very
early early in in the the morning moming and until buyettes became until mid-day
mid-day without without intermission. intennission. Later, Later, bU~'elles objects
such as objects of of ridicule ridicule and and provoked provoked epigrams epigrams
such as the following: following:

With With the strictest equity; eqllity;

Themis Themis inspires inspires the magistrates in in the buvette buvette

butter contained in buttercontained in a a glass glass dish. dish.

During During the hearing can be he observed observed Arrest Arrest after aftcr
arrest by by Bacchus Bacchus served. The The Revolution Revolution put put an end
to the buvettes bu velles along with with the judicial judicial high high courts;
courts; but but they they reappeard reappeared with the legislative legislative
assemblies. assemblies.

LAIT LAIT

E (THER

i§

Butyrometer Butyromeler

t70 170
ranging from the ancient Hebrew Hebrew cabar cabal' (to assemble) term , ranging
term, cave).. In In cabare (to dig or make make a cave) to the the mediaeval
mediaeval Latin verb cabare to
drinks can be tavem where drinks general sense the term means a tavern a general
sometimes food is 00 the the premises, premises, and and where is sometimes where
food consumed on served . served. a rustic tavern The name is linked Iioked to the
original courtille, a on situated near vineyards, 'a green oasis which became alive
00 people who ftocked flocked there to a joyous joyous throng throng of people
holidays with a pleasure a The courtilles against boredorn.· boredom.' The a
revenge against find in in pleasure them can can were of them some of feast days;
days; sorne were reserved for carousing on feast be traced by streets which by the
the names exist, identified by still exist, which still be of the the vineyards
round Georgeot, clos Georgeot, Thus the the clos courtilles. Thus round the the
courtilles. of the the which slopes of southern slopes the southem on the its
vineyards on spread its which spread

origin of CABARET - There are are various opinions opinions on the origin of this
CABARET

Vignes. des Vignes. the impasse impasse des by the represented by is also also
represented Posles, is des Postes, rue des which were were to which approaches to
the approaches vineyards, the or vineyards, clos, or These clos, These noblepart of
of a a noblesometimes part were sometimes courtilles, were by the the courtilles,
enlivened by enlivened guarded -were weil well guarded vineyards were the vineyards
and then then the domain, and man's domain, grew the crowd crowd grew Sometimes the
fruit. Sometimes forbidden fruit. vines were were forbidden vines provost
ofmerchants of merchants The provost rioting. The by rioting. revenge by angry, and
and took revenge angry, together down, together burnt down, Barbette, burnt seat,
courtille courtille Barbette, his country country seat, had his got to de la la to
tbe the clos clos de they got 'And when when they vineyards. his vineyards with his
with . 'And not only only it was was not courtille, it famous episcopal episcopal
Lourtille, a famous Ville-l'EvAqze, a Ville-I'Evêque, hiding under under jibes that
canons hidiog fat canons at the the fat aimed at they aimed that they caustic jibes
caustic "theogathered for for aa"theohad gathered who had vines, who climbing
vines, laden climbing heavily laden heavily banquet". logical banquet". logical

to close to a little little street street close to a given its name to its name has
given butte Saint-Roch has the by the traversed by Posteries' traversed des
Posteries, clos des the clos Royal; Palais Royal the Palais ; the the

AA cabaret during reign of François 1 (Flemish schoof) schoal) Franpisl(Flemish of

the reign cabaret duringthe

171 17l
CABARET CABARET
'When the the holidays holidays came people felt came the the people felt they they
were werefree freefor for 'When a few few days. days. They They were were not not
afraid afraid to to forget forget themselves themselves beside beside a a jug
ofwine, of wine, and and when when the hot sun the hot sun rays rays invited
invited them them to leave toleave ajug their damp damp and and smoky smoky
dwelling-places dwelling-places they they would would venture venture their into
the the country, groups, as country, in in groups, as far far as as the the most
most distant distant into courtilles. court il/es. 'But, as as we we know, know,
not not every every day day is is a a holiday. holiday. Whilst Whilst fully fully
'But, conscious of of the the truth truth of of this this old old axiom, axiom, the
people did the people did not not conscious feel any any the less the the less the
need need to to satisfy satisfy their their daily daily thirst thirst during during
the the feel week. On On Sundays Sundays they they could could regard regard it it
as as a a duty. duty. week. 'They needed needed therefore, therefore, in in the the
absence absence of of the the courtilles courtilles 'They reserved for for
carousing good feast carousing on on good feast days, days, sorne place not some
place not reserved far from from their their homes homes where where they they cou
could minister to to the the capcapfar Id minister rices of of this this daily
daily thirst. thirst. These These places places were were the the first frrst
cabarets. cabarets. rices 'A drinker drinker worthy worthy of of the the name name
never never mistook mistooka cabaret for for 'A a cabaret a tavern. tavern. In In a
a tavern tavern he he could could sit sit down down at at a a table table and and
drink drink a but he he could could not not do do so so in in a a cabaret; cabaret;
he he had had to to drink drink outside. outside. but 'A stout stout wood wooden
guarded the trellis-work guarded the entry entry to to the the 'A en trellis-work
houses of of cabaret cabaret keepers. keepers. Through Through an an opening
opening cut cut in in the the houses trellis-work the publican handed the publican
handed the the wine wine to to the the customer. customer. trellis-work jug, which
He had had to to hold hold the which he the jug, he used used as as a a measure,
measure, upside upside He down to to show show that that there possible way there
was was no no possible way of of drinking drinking down premises. Such on his his
premises. Such were were the the official official orders provost, orders of of the
the provost, on and the the inn-keeper inn-keeper had had to to abide abide by by
this this method method of of selling selling and "by means jug" !' means of a a
cut cut door door and and an an overturned overturned jug"!' "by In the the
centuries centuries which which followed, followed, the the cabarets cabarets
became became In identified with with taverns, taverns, and and the the two two
words became became synonysynonyidentified mous. Some cabarets cabarels which were
frequented frequented by by writers, writers, especially especially Sorne in the
the seventeenth century, century, acquired acquired lasting lasting fame. fame.
Among Among in (n rue them were were le le MouLOn Mouton blanc blanc (in rue du du
Vieux-Colombier) Vieux-Colombier) them where Racine, Racine, La La Fontaine
Fontaine and and Boileau Boileau used used to to meet; meet; le le where (rue du
Sabot (rue du Pot-de-Fer) where Ronsard Ronsard would come come in in for for a
drink drink and and which which Chapelain also also visited; visited; l'Ecu l'Ecu
d'Argent; d'Argent; a (rue de la Licorne), the meeting-place meeting-place of the
the la Pomme de Pin (rue scholars by Rabelais. Rabelais. Notable Notable among
among eighteenth eighteenth scholars mentioned by century inns were (on the were le
le Caveau (on the Buci crossroads) crossroads) where Coll6, Piron and and many
other other epicureans epicureans used used to to gather to Collé, sing songs and
and where 1737 the where in in 1737 the Caveau sing their their bawdy bawdy songs
(rue de formed; and and le le Chat Chat blanc blanc (rue de la la
VieiIJeVieilleSociety was was formed; Lanterne). Lanterne).

nutritional point pointof view.It It isisrich ofview. rich in inVitamins VitaminsBI

Bland andB2 82 nutritional (essential for forthe assimilation of theassimilation
andfats), fats), in ofsugars sugarsand inVitamin Vitamin (essential (itcon C(it
contains asmuch muchas asaalemon), lemon),and andin inVitamin VitaminK. K.MoreMoreC
tains as over, it quantities of it contains contains large largequantities
mineralsalts: ofmineraI salts:calcium, calcium, over, potassium, sulphur,
magnesium, potassium, sulphur, etc. etc.Unfortunately, Unfortunately, owing owing
magnesium, to its its indigestibility, indigestibility, it it requires
prolongedcooking requires prolonged cookingduring during to (This disadvantage
which much much ofits nutritional value of its nutritional value is lost. (This
islost. which disadvantage partly overcome can be overcomeby be partly byshredding
shreddingthe thecabbage cabbage finely finely and can and cooking it it rapidly
rapidly in inaacupfuJ cupfulof cooking ofboiling boiling water.) water.)
Dietetically Dietetically speaking, it it is isbest besteaten raw. eaten raw.
speaking, GREEN CABBAGE. CABBAGE. CHOUX cHoux VERTS vERrs- GREEN Boiled cabbage.
cabbage. CHOU cHou VERT VERT À AL'ANGLAISE Boiled r'ANGLArss - - Cut Cut aacabbage
cabbage quarters. Remove into quarters. Remove the part of the fibrous fibrous part
into of the the stem stemand and the the coarse outer outer Ieaves, leaves, cook
cook in in salt coarse salt water wateruntil until tender. tender. Drain, Drain,
press between plates to between two two plates press sture, slice to extract
extract the the moi moisture, slice cabcabbage into into rectangles. rectangles.
bage Green cabbage prepared in cabbage prepared in this Green this way wayis isused
usedas asaavegetable vegetable with melted served with melted butter, garnish.
served butter, or or as asa agarnish. Braised cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cHou VERT vERr
BRAISÉ Braised sn,Ars6 -- Divide Divide aa cabbage cabbage quarters, blanch, into
quarters, put under into blanch, put under the the cold cold tap, tap, and and then
drain. then drain. Break up up the the cabbage cabbage and and remove remove the
portions of Break the thick thick portions the of the stem. Season pepper and stem.
Season with with salt, grated nutmeg. salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Line Line aa
deep casserole casserole with deep with strips larding bacon, strips of of larding
add the bacon, add the cabbage, cabbage, an on onion an ion stuck ove, a with aa cl
stuck with clove, a large large carrot quarters, carrot cut cut into into quarters,
garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Moisten and a a bouquet bouquet garni and Moisten with with
stock stock which which has has not not (if there been skimmed been skimmed of of
its its fat fat (if there is is no no fat, fat, add add 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons
(scant t (scant cup) c1arified clarified fat fat to to it). it). Coyer with strips
Cover with strips of of fat fat bacon. bacon. f cup) Start the stove Start cooking
cooking on on top top of ofthe stove then pan and then coyer cover the put and put
the pan it in in a a moderate moderate oyen it oven for for about about 11 l|
hours. hours. piece of A A piece of blanched pork can lean pork blanched lean
added. Braised can be be added. Braised cabbage cabbage may be used used as may be
as a a vegetable vegetable but, more often, but, more often, appears appears
garnish. in a in a garnish. Cabbage in marinade. Cabbage in marinade. CHOU cHou
VERT vnnr MARINÉ MlnrNf -- Prepared Prepared like like Red cabbage (see below). Red
cabbage in in marinade marinade (see below). Cabbage Cabbage salado slrnoE DE DE
CHOU salad. SALADE cHou VERT VERT -- Slice Slice the the cabbage cabbage finely,
finely, blanch for for 15 15 minutes minutes in in salted salted water. water. Put
Put under under the the cold cold tap, tap, drain drain and and dry. dry. Season
Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper like pepper
like an green salado an ordinary ordinary green salad.

CABARET set, including CABARET (Liquarr (Liqueur stand) liqueur set, including
glasses - A liqueur and either on on a a tray and decanters, decanters, presented
presented either tray or or in in a a special
cabinet.

CABBAGE. cHou CHOU - Highly esteemed by by the the Greeks Greeks and particularly
particularly by by the Romans, the cabbage seems to have been unknown to the
Hebrews. It is not mentioned in the Bible. Apart Apart from seakale, no 00 species
species of cabbage survives survives in a wild state. state. A developed through A
great many new varieties have been developed cultivation. cultivation. The three
three main classes of full-hearted full-hearted cabbages are: are: the 'headed'
'headed' smooth-leafed smooth-leafed green green cabbage, cabbage, the the Milan
Milan curlyleafed leafed cabbage, cabbage, and the the red red cabbage. cabbage.
The The spring spring 'headed' cabbage cabbage is usually usually conical and com-

monly known as'pointed'cabbage. as 'pointed' cabbage. The summer or autumn autumn

monly known 'headed' 'headed' cabbage cabbage is is rounder rounder in in shape
shape and and includes includes the varieties varieties de de Boston Boston or de
de Brunswick Brunswick and and quintal d'Alsace which which are are often often
used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of of sauerkraut.Best sauerkraut.
Best known known of of the the winter win ter cabbages cabbages are de de No€l Noël
and de de Vaugirard Vaugirard
d'hiver. d'hiver. Milan Milan cabbages cabbages have have curly curly (occasionally
(occasionally crinkled) crinkled) leaves. leaves. There There are are no no less
less than than twenty-five twenty-five varieties. varieties. Five Five varieties
varieties of of red red cabbage cabbage are are cultivated cultivated in in France.
France. These These are are common common to to all ail regions regions and and are
are in in season season throughthroughout out the the year. year. The The cabbage
cabbage is is a a particularly particularly interesting interesting vegetable
vegetable from from a a

Little balls (Larousse) Little stuffed (Larousse) stuffed cabbage cabbage balls

pnrrrs CHOUX Little stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage balls. balls. PETITS porJR
GARNITURE Little cHoux POUR cARNrruRE

- Divide a large cabbage into quarters, wash, alarge wash, blanch blanch for for 8
8 to to 10 minutes in salt water, rinse, and and drain. l0 drain. Remove all aIl
the leaves and them by by paring the Remove and trim them ribbed the ribbed
stuffing with with the the tender tender inner inner leaves leaves and stalks. Make
a stuffing and an an of forcemeat. Put a round of equal quantity of a round of
stuffing stuffing on on each each leaf and roll into tight balls. balls. Braise
Braise in in the the usual usual way. leaf way. cabbage balls balls are are used
used to to garnish gamish large large braised braised Stuffed cabbage joints.
joints. The cabbage leaves leaves can be be stuffed stuffed with with all ail kinds
kinds of of hashes or pur6es. purées. hashes
172 t72
CABBAGE CABBAGE

:].$!
( Robert Carrier) provengale(Robert laprovençale cabbage aala Stuffed cabbage
Stuffed Carrier)

173
CABBAGE PALM CABBAGEPALM
t::iiii]:

:ij:iiliilXi:!:ii]ti ::;]:i

Stuffed cabbage (I-ar ous se') Sluffed cabbage (Larousse)

Stuffd cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cuou VERT vERT FARCI FARCr -- Blanch Blanch a a whole
whole cabcabStuffed bage in in salted salted water, put it water, put it under
under the the cold cold tap, tap, drain, drain, and and bage remove the stem. stem.
remove the Spread out out the the cabbage cabbage on on a a damp damp cloth. cloth.
Stuff Stuff the the heart heart Spread with a a ball pork stuffing. ball of of fine
fine pork stuffing. Close Close the the leaves leaves round round this, this, with
and fill the outer leaves, closing them in to reform the shape and fill the outer
leaves, closing them in to reform the shape of the the cabbage. cabbage. Wrap Wrap
in in thin thin strips strips of of bacon bacon fat fat and and tie in the the tie
in of cloth. Put Put the the cabbage cabbage in in a a braising pan lined braising
pan lined with with bacon bacon cloth. rinds and slices of onion and carrot. rinds
and s!ices of onion and carrot. Cover with with a a fat fat stock stock and and
braise braise for for about about 1 l] hours. Coyer t hours. Drain the cabbage and
and remove remove the the bards. bards. Serve Serve with with a a sauce sauce Drain
the cabbage made of of the the cooking cooking liquor liquor boiled boiled down
down and and enriched with enriched with made a !ittle little brown brown sauce.
sauce. This This stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, cut cut into into thick thick a
slices, is served as a garnish for large joints. s!ices, is served as a garnish for
large joints. The cabbage can be prepared in another way. Remove the The cabbage
can be prepared in another way. Remove the heart, chop the tender tender leaves,
leaves, mix mix with with the the stuffing stuffing and and fil! fill heart, chop
the the cabbage with this mixture and braise it. the cabbage with this mixture and
braise it. Stufred cabbage à i la (Nigoise cookery). la provengale provençale
(Niçoise cookery). cuou CHOU Stuffed cabbage FARcr - Blanch a large cabbage for 8
mindtes in salted water, FARCI Blanch a large cabbage for 8 minutes in salted
water, rinse in cold water, and drain. Remove the large outer leaves rinse in cold
water, and drain. Remove the large outer leaves and stems. Spread Spread these and
the the ribbed ribbed stems. these leaves leaves out out flat flat on on a a thin
thin damp cloth stretched on on the damp cloth stretched the table table and and
chop chop the the inside inside leaves. Stuff the outer leaves with the chopped-up
leaves and leaves. Stuff the outer leaves with the chopped-up leaves and the
following ingredients, arranged in layers: 250 g. (9 oz.) the following
ingredients, arranged in layers: 250 g. (9 oz.) blanched blanched best best leaves;
leaves; 2N 200 e.Q g. (7 oz.') oz.) diced diced and and browned browned lean lean
pork; I medium·sized onion, pork; 1 medium-sized onion, chopped chopped and and
lightly lightly fried fried in in butter; 2 large peeled, tomatoes, seeded and
chopped; butter; 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped; 100 g. (4 oz., f,
cup) blanched rice; 100 g. (4 oz., f cup) fresh 100 g. (4 oz.,J cup) blanched rice;
100 g. (4 oz., J. cup) fresh green peas; 750 g. (l+ lb.) sausage meat seasoned with
a green peas; 750 g. (li lb.) sausage meat seasoned with a crushed garlic clove.
crushed garlic clove. Fold Fold the the cabbage cabbage leaves leaves round round
the the stuffing stuffing in in the the form form of of a a ball, tie up the cloth
and put into a pot-au-feu prepared in the bail, tie up the cio th and put into a
pot-au-feu prepared in the usual way but using mutton instead of beef. Cook slowlv
for usual way but using mutton instead ofbeef. Cook slowly for about 3| hours.
about 3t hours. Drain Drain the the cabbage cabbage and and pour pour a a few few
tablespoons tablespoons of of the the cooking liquor over it. cooking liquor over
it. This dish, which is fundamental to the cuisine nigoise, can This dish, which is
fundamental to the cuisine niçoise, can be served with the soup from the pot-au-feu
in which it was be served with the soup from the pot-au-feu in which it was cooked.
cooked. Stufred cabbage rolls. csou vERr FARcr EN BALLoTTTNE Stuffed cabbage roUs.
CHOU VERT FARCI EN BALLOTTINE Lay out slices of larding bacon on a damp cloth and
place on Lay out slices of larding bacon on a damp cloth and place on top ofthem
cabbage leaves which have been blanched, rinsed top ofthem cabbage leaves whicb
have been blanched, rinsed put and dried, the leaves and dried, the leaves
overlapping overlapping to to form form a a rectangle. rectangle. Put rolls of
stuffing roUs of stuffing in in the the centre centre of ofthe the leaves, leaves,
wrap wrap them them round round the stuffing, and tie up in the cloth. Braise in
the manner the stuffing, and tie up in the clotho Braise in the manner indicated
above. indicated above.
Red cabbage i la flamande. cHou RoucE A r-a rr.c,MA.NDE Red cabbage à la Oamande.
CHOU ROUGE À LA FLAMANDEWash, quarter and shred the cabbage, removing the hard
Wash, quarter and shred the cabbage, removing the hard core and stem. Season with
salt and pepper, and sprinkle core and stem. Season with salt and pepper, and
sprinkle with a few with a few drops drops of of vinegar. vinegar. Cook Cook slowly
slowly in in butter. butter. When When

three-quarters cooked cookedadd add33 peeled, peeled, quartered quartered tart tart
apples apples three-quarters and 1I tablespoon tablespoon brown brownsugar. sugar.
Finish Finish cooking cooking on onaa low low and heat, the theoverall overall time
time being beingabout about 22hours. hours. heat, Redcabbage cabbage ài la la
limousine. limousine. CHOU cHou ROUGE Roucn À ALA rn LIMOUSINE ruvrousrxr - Red
Shred the the cabbage put it cabbage and and put it into intoan anearthenware
earthenwarecasserole. casserole. Shred Moistenwith with bouillon bouillon and and
add add44 tablespoons ($cup) tablespoons (1 pork cup) pork Moisten fat, and
andchopped peeled chestnuts. chopped peeled chestnuts. Season Season with with salt
salt and and fat, pepper. Cook Cook with with the the lid lid on on for for about
about 2 2 hours. hours. pepper. Red cabbage cabbage in in marinade. marinade. CHOU
cuou ROUGE Roucr MARINÉ rra.qnrlri - - Shred Shred the the Red cabbage after after
removing removing the the hard hard core core and and ribs. ribs. Sprinkle Sprinkle
with with cabbage fine salt salt and and leave leave for for 48 48 hours, hours,
stirring stirring from from time time to to time. time. fine Drain the the cabbage
cabbage and put it and put it in in an an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl with
with Drain peppercorns, fragments fragments of of bay bay leaf, leaf, and garlic
clove. a garlic and a clove. Coyer Cover peppercorns, with vinegar vinegar which
which has has been been boiled boiled and and aUowed allowed to to cool. cool. with
Marinate for for 24 24 to to 48 48 hours. hours. Marinate Red cabbage cabbage in in
marinade marinade is is used used as as an an hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre.It is Red
It is also served served with with boiled boiled beef. beef. also Stalks and and
stumps stumps of of red red and green cabbage. and green cabbage. MOELLE MoELLE DE
DE Stalks cHou ROUGE RoucE ET ET CHOU cHou VERT VERT -- The The core of these these
vegetables core of vegetables is is CHOU usually discarded, discarded, but it can
but it can be be very very tasty tasty and and can, if well can, if well usually
cooked, provide provide very good dishes. very good dishes. cooked, Remove ail all
the the woody woody outer outer casing. casing. Blanch Blanch whole whole if if it
it is is Remove to be be served served with with the the vegetable. vegetable. If
If it it is is to to be be cooked cooked sepasepato rately, cut into rounds. cut
into rounds. After After blanching, blanching, these these stalks stalks and
rately, stumps can prepared in can be be prepared in the the same same way as
artichoke way as artichoke stalks stalks stumps or endive endive stumps. stumps. or
pALMrsrE - Terminal CABBAGE PALM. PALM. PALMISTE bud of of several CABBAGE -
Terminal bud species of palm. of palm. species pALMrsrE EN palm en (Creole
cookery). Cabbage palm en daube daube (Creole cookery). PALMISTE Cabbage DAUBE
Parboil pieces pieces of of cabbage palm palm shoots cut lengthDAUBE - Parboil ways
into into strips strips and and tied tied in in bundles to to keep them them
together. ways Brown in in fat on a a low low heat heat for for about about 30 30
minutes. Add Add 1 I Brown fat on tablespoon flour flour and and blend in, frying
frying it lightly. Add t it lightly. tablespoon blend it it in, I teaspoon tomato
puree and and moisten spoon tomato purée moisten with concentrated chicken stock
prepared advance from giblets. stock prepared in in advance from chicken giblets.
Cook for several minutes, Cook for several minutes, put put in in the the oven oyen
for for a a while without without allowing al!owing the the top to brown, brown,
and serve serve in a little little sauce. sauce.

CABERNET CABERNET - Variety Variety of of vine vine grown grown extensively in in

the Bordeaux Bordea ùx vineyards. vineyards. There There are are t;o two species:
cabernet-franc cabernet-franc and, c aberne t - s auv ignon. and cabernet-
sauvignon. The The red red wines wines of of Chinon, Chinon, Bourgueil Bourgueil
and and SaumurChampigny Champigny are are also also made made from from this grape.
grape. A A well-known wel!-known Anjou Anjou ros6 rosé bears bears the the same
same name. name.

CACHALOT CACHALOT (Sperm-whale) (Sperm-whale) - Sea mammal, mammal, the the flesh
flesh of of which which is is sometimes sometimes used used as as food. food.

RED RoucES RED CABBAGE. CAB BAGE. cHoux CHOUX ROUGES -

Stuffed Sluffedcabbage cabbagerolls rolls

r74 174
CAF6S CAFÉS
CACHOU. CACHOU. cAcHUND6 CACHUNDÉ -- Aromatic Aromatic tablets tablets used used in
in the the Far Far East, East, to towhich which stomachic stomachicproperties
propertiesare areattributed. attributed. They Theyare are mainly mainly used used
to to freshen freshen and and sweeten sweeten breath breath and and are are made
made of of
amber, amber, musk, musk, sandalwood, sandalwood, sweet sweet calamus, cala mus,
galingale, galingale, cincinnamon, namon, bole, bole, etc. etc. went At At the the
same same period period in in Paris Paris a a man man called called Candiol Candiol
went utensils. He about about carrying carrying a a hawker's hawker's tray tray
with with domestic domestic utensils. He price of also also sold sold coffee,
coffee, which which could could be be taken taken home home at at the the price of
Joseph, two two sorrs sous a a cup, cup, including including sugar. sugar. His His
associate, associate, Joseph,
These caf6s Andr6-des-Arts, André-des-Arts, facing facing the the Saint-Michel
Saint-Michel bridge. bridge. These cafés frewere than dirty dirty little little
smoking-saloons smoking-saloons frewere really really no no more more than from the
Lebanon travellers smokers, quented by confirmed quented by confirmed smokers,
travellers from the Lebanon sold in these ind and by by several several Knights
Knights of of Malta' Malta. The The coffee coffee sold in these were 56 shops shops
was was mediocre mediocre and and badly badly served. served. By By 1754 1754 there
there were 56 their caf6i cafés in in Paris; Paris; by by the the end end of of the
the eighteenth eighteenth century century their quality' numbers numbers had had
risen risen to to 600, 600, of of a a much mu ch higher higher quality. as
meetingThe The caf6s cafés very very soon soon replaced replaced the the cabarets
cabarets as meetingcafes the first was places of letters. letters. Among Among
literary literary cafés the first was places for for men men of near the the the
Cafi Café dt du Parnasse Parnasse at at the the end end of of the the Pont-Neuf,
Pont-Neuf, near the in rue Dauphine; Samaritaine; Samaritaine; then then the the
Veuve Veuve Lourent, Laurent, in rue Dauprune; goes back to the eightand and the
the Cafi Café Procope Procope whose whose fame fame goes back to the eightregulars
Buffon, eenth eenth century cent ury when when it it counted counted among among
its its regulars Buffon, d'AlemGilbert, Marmontel, Voltaire, Voltaire, d'Holbach'
d'Holbach, Diderot' Djderot, d'AlemGilbert, Marmontel, bert bert and and others.
others. rue Saint-Antoine The The widow widow Fournier, Fournier, whose whose caf6
café in in rue Saint-Antoine first to think of the was was founded founded by by
Baptiste Baptiste in in 1690, 1690, was was the the first to think of the
newspapers' idea of providing providing her her regular regular customers customers
with with newspapers. idea of and Journal des edto She Gazette de de France,
France, Mercure Mercure and Journal des She subscrib subscribed to Gazette was the
Savants.The Café des des Grhces, Grâces, in in rue rue de de I'Arbre-Sec, l'Arbre-
Sec, was the Savants. The Cafi The Cafe first establishment in in Paris Paris to to
have have public public billiards' billiards. The Café first establishment chess-
players, de de la la Rigence Régence became became the the meeting-place meeting-
place of of chess-players, against the and Jean-Jacques and Jean-Jacques Rousseau
Rousseau tried tried his his skill skill there there against the the cafes played
Revolution the During Philidor. celebrated celebrated Philidor. During the
Revolution the cafés played committees of as meeting-places an important an
important r6le rôle as meeting-places of of secret secret committees of as tribunes
for and as Convention and of the members members of the National National
Convention tribunes for orators. orators. of fame: too, have caf6s, too, The
Palajs-Royal Palais-Royal cafés, The have had had their their hour hour of fame:
Cafd and Café Corazza and Cafi Corazza Rotonde, Café de la la Rotonde, Foy, Café
Cafi de de Foy, Cafe de Café officers on Bonapartist officers of Bonapartist were
the the meeting-places Lamblin were meeting-places of on Lamblin half-pay. half-
pay. Riche caf6s, Cafi Boulevard cafés, the Boulevard Empire the the Second Second
Empire Under the Under Café Riche of meeting-places of the meeting-places were the
Frascati, were all, Café Cafi Frascati, above ail, and, above and, journalists.
When disFrascati's disWhen Frascati's and journalists. dramatists and writers,
dramatists writers, In the the Latin Napolitain' In Cafd Napolitain. by Café
replaced by it was was replaced appeared, it appeared, Latin at Café CafE Vachette.
held court court at Mor6as held Jean Moréas Quarter, Jean Quarter, Vachette. and
more more numerous and more numerous although more caf6s, although Today the the
cafés, Today political and and literary same political not the the same have not
ever, have luxurious than than ever, luxurious Iiterary perhaps of a few Left Bank
exception perhaps with the the exception influence, with influence, of a few Left
Bank

in rue Sainta opened another another in rue Sainta Levantine Levantine from from
Aleppo, Aleppo, opened

and Etienne, opened opened a a caf1 caféat atthe theend end of ofNotre-Dame Notre-
Damebridge, bridge, and Etienne,

Cadenas Cadenas for for the the roYal royal cutlery cutlery

CADENAS CADENAS - Container, Container, with with grooves, grooves, which which
closed closed like Iike a a drawer. It It was was used used in the the royal royal
households households for for the the same same purpurpos€ pose as as the nef, a
basket basket containing royal royal cutlery, cutlery, napkins, napkins, etc. It
held he Id fork, knife and spoon, and bread bread was was placed placed on on on
the dish. dish. Under Louis XIV XIV it it became became a a hexagonal hexagonal
tray trayon which napkin, napkin, fork, knife knife and spoon spoon were placed.
placed. The The grand grand on his andthe pantler pantler had the nef nef and the
cadenas cadenas conjoined conjoined on his coat-ofcoat-ofarms.

only liquid CAFES CAFÉS where, in in principle, principle, only liquid -

Establishments where, coffee. and coffee. refreshments refreshments are served,
originally only wine wine and quantities to to in large coffee in first brought
coffee Aga first Suleiman Aga large quantities a opened a Pascal opened called
Pascal Armenian called an Annenian 1669. Later, Later, an in 1669. France in a
roaring roaring and did did a fair, and Saint-Germain fair, at the the Saint-
Germain shop at coffee shop coffee a opened a and opened quai de I'Ecole and de
l'Ëcole fair, he went to quai trade. After the fair, at the the SaintSaintas at
success as same success not have the same did not but did new new shop shop but had
coffee had where coffee London' where to London, went to He then then went fair. He
Germain Germain fair. Armenian' another Armenian, Pascal, another After Pascal,
1652. After known since since 1652. been been known to went to later went while
later little while a little but a caf€, but a café, opened a Maliban, opened
Maliban, who Gregoire who called Gregoire a man man called to a house to leaving
his his house Holland, leaving Holland, the near the be near to be rue Mazarine
Mazarine to to rue his establishment establishment to moved moved his rue opposite
rue street, opposite in that that street, then in was then which was Comddie which
Comédie Gu6n6gaud. Guénégaud.

1830(ScltaaD AAcaf6in café in 1830 (Schaaf)

175 175
CAFFEINE CAFFEINE
establishments, which still serve as meeting-places for young establishments, which
still serve as meeting-places for young literary and artistic movements. (See
RESTAURANTS OF literary and artistic movements. (See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE DAYS.)
BYGONE DAYS.) CAFFEINE. cAFErr\E Alkatoid substance contained in CAFFEINE. CAFÉINE
- - Alkaloid substance contained in coffee, which acts on the nervous system. A
moderate amount coffee, which acts on the nervous system. A moderate amoun t of
coffee soothes, eliminates the feeling of tiredness and of coffee soothes,
eliminates the feeling of tiredness and exhaustion, makes mental work easier,
dispels drowsiness. exhaustion, makes mental work easier, dispels drowsiness. A
bigger dose can bring on nervous excitation,trembling, trembling, A bigger dose can
bring on nervous excitation, insomnia. insomnia. Coflee has a stimulating effect on
the heart if taken in Coffee has a stimulating effect on the heart if taken in
moderation; excessive coffee drinking causes palpitations moderation; excessive
coffee d rinking causes pal pitations and irregularity of the heartbeat. and
irregularity of the heartbeat. Coffee also acts as a digestive stimulant, speeding
the Coffee also acts as a digestive stimulant, speeding the passage of food through
the the body (and often body (and ofien causing causing passage of food through
diarrhoea). It can have a diuretic effect. On the other handl diarrhoea). It can
have a diuretic effect. On the other hand, cases of articular deformation, cited by
Brillat-Savarin, are cases of articular deformation, cited by Brillat-Savarin, are
not caused by excessive intake ofcoffee. not caused by excessive intake of coffee.
(especially strong black coffee) must not be given to 99tr* (especially Coffee
strong black coffee) must not be given to children, adolescents, people of nervous
disposition or those children, adolescents, people ofnervous disposition or those
suffering from heart conditions; nor shouid it be given to suffering from heart
conditions; Dor should it be given to certain dyspeptics. certain dyspeptics.
Although Voltaire, who drank six cups of coffee daily, was Although Voltaire, who
drank six cups ofcoffee daily, was loud in its praise, his over-indulgence could
have have bad lad aa loud in its praise, his over-indulgence could bearing on the
enterocolitis from which he suffered to the bearing on the enterocolitis from which
he suffered to the end of his life. end of his life. Finally, black coffee ought
never to be drunk on an empty Finally, black coffee ought never to be drunk on an
empty stomach and white coffee is even worse for the svstem than stomach and white
coffee is even worse for the system than black. black. CAILLEBOTTE (Curds) - Name
given in certain regions of CAILLEBOTTE (Curds) Name given in certain regions of
France to curdled milk, drained in a muslin bag and eaten France to curdled milk,
drained in a muslin bag and eaten

CAILLIER- -Wooden Woodenvessel vesselused usedin inthe MiddleAges theMiddle Ages

and CAILLIER and untilthe the ofthe the endof sixteenth century centuryas as
drinkingcup. cup.It Itwas was until end sixteenth aa drinking madein inthe theshape
shapeof ofaabowl bowlof ofaverage averagesize supportedby size bya a made supported
leg,the thewhole wholecarved carvedout pieceof outof ofone onepiece ofwood.
wood.There Therewere were leg, alsobowls bowlsmade madein ina alarger largersize
sizewhich whichserved servedas ascontainers containers also forwine, wine,the
thebowl-shaped bowl-shapedlids lidsbeing beingused usedas as drinkingvessels.
vessels. for drinking
CAISSETTES- - Small garnishedcases Smallgarnished casesoffered offeredas ashot
hothorsCAISSETTES ftorsd'euvre or oras asaasmall (SeeHORS-D'ŒUVRE, smallentrée.
entrie.(See HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot d'œuvre Hot hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.)
CAKE.GÂTEAU cArreu- - The Theword ghteau is wordgâteau issa said tocome comefrom
fromthe CAKE. id to the gastean, WhlCh word gasteau, whichitself itselfderives
derives from from the theold gastel, oldtenn word termgastel, delicatefood food
that quickly deteriorates thatquickly deteriorates(gâter (gdter - - to tospoil).
spoil). aadelicate generic tenu The generic gdteau or term gâteau or cake cake
designates designates ail The alltypes typesof of pastry and andcakes cakes in in
the thestrict strictsense senseof of the theterm, term, while while the pastry the
word entremets entremets or (U.S. or sweet sweet (U dessert) applies appliesmore
moreespeciword .S. dessert) especially to to sweet preparations such sweet
preparations such as ascrea creams, fritters, charlottes, ally ms, fritters,
charlottes. tarts, flans pies, pudd flans and and pies, puddings, souffies and and
all all kinds kinds of tarts, ings, soufflés of ices, ices. which belong belong to
to the the do domain of the the cook cook rather rather than than that which main
of that of of the confectioner. confectioner. the Cakes are are made made from from
any any of of eight eight doughs doughs in in French French Cakes confectionery:
ftake pastry (feuilletage), flake pastry (feuilletage), short pastry (pâte
shortpastry confectionery: QtAte brisde), sweet pastry (pâte sweet pastry sucrde),
brioche, brioche, savarin, saiarin, baba, brisée), baba, Qtdte sucrée), gdnoise,
chou pastry. chou pastry. génoise, To these these may may be added a be added a
large large number number of of mixtures mixtures of To of additional ingredients
ingredients such such as as almond paste, various almond paste, various kinds
additional kinds of sugar sugar icing, icing, fondant, fondant, French French
pastry pastry cream (crime cream (crème of pdtissiire), frangipane cream cream and
and other other creams, praline (q.v.), (q.v.), creams, praline pât issière),
frangipane etc. etc. In France, France, as as weil well as as in in many many other
other countries, countries, there ln there are are symbolic cakes cakes which, in
in sorne some cases, cases, have have been been being symbolic being made made for
centuries, centuries, and and are are eaten eaten on on certain feast feast days.
days. One for One such such is the the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake, which
symbolises symbolises the great feast is feast of of the Epiphany. Epiphany. the

fresh.

fresh.

commonly used used in in Normandy for - Name CAILLETOT Name commonly Normandy for
young turbot. young turbot.

CAILLETOT

Ancient gateaux or centre-pieces, after Car6me : Turkish pavilion Ruins of a

rotunda Large fountain ; Ruins of a rotunda; Ancien! gâteaux or centre-pieces,
after Carême: Turkish pavilion; ; Large fountain

t76 176
CAKE CAKE

(Iarozsse) Large Largecakes: cakes: Dijon; Dijon;Madasgar; Madasgar; St StJames

James (Larousse)

In In France, France, from from the the very very earliest earliest times, times, a
a large large number number of of provinces provinces have have produced produced
pastries pastries for for which which they they are are noted. noted. Thus Thus
Artois Artois had had gdteaux gâteaux razis, razis, and and Bourbonnais Bourbonnais
the the ancient ancient tartes tartes de de fromage fromage broyi, broyé, de de
crime crème et et de de moyeux moyeux d'oeulz. d'oeulz. Flat-cakes Flat-cakes are
are still still made made in in Normandy, Normandy, Picardy, Picard y, Poitou
Poitou and and in in some sorne provinces provinces of of the the south south of of
France' France. They They are are called variously variously fouaces, fouaces,
fouaches, fouaches, fouies fouées or or fouyasses, fouyasses, according according
to to the the district. (See (See HEARTH-CAKE') HEARTH-CAKE.) Until Until the the
seventeenth seventeenth century century it it was was usual usual at at Whitsuntide
Whitsuntide and oublies in Paris Paris to throw down nieules nieules and oublies
(wafers), (wafers), local local Parisian of the the worshippers worshippers Pari
sian confections, confections, upon the the heads heads of gathered gathered under
the vaulted vaulted roofs of of the the Cathedral Cathedral of of NotreNotreDame.
At the same same time blazing blazing wicks were were showered showered on on the
the congregation. congregation. Ahong Among the many pastries pastries which were
in high high favour favour from from cities centuries in the twelfth to the
fifteenth in Paris Paris and and other other cities fifteenth centuries ichaudis of
which which two variants, variants, the flageols fiageols and and the the were:
were; échaudés of Paris; by the people people of Paris; and, and gobets, were were
especially prized by of strips of (q.v.), small tartlets covered with tartlets
covered darioles (q.v.), darioles with narrow narrow strips with one filled made,
one were made, darioles were of darioles pastry. Two Two kinds kinds of pastry.
filled with Talemouses cream. Talemouses with frangipane cream. the other with
iream cheese, the cream (cheese turnovers) were turnovers) were as talmouses
(cheese which are known today as f/ot (See HORS-D'ŒUVRES, HORS-D'(EUVRES, Hot
appreciated. (See much appreciated. also much also hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.)
today; made today; pastry still still made (q.v.\ is hard pastry is a a dry, dry,
hard Casse-museru (q.v.) Casse-museau in a a are mentioned mentioned in gilteaux
feuilletés and gâteaux choux and ratons, petits choux ratons, feuilletds are proves
1311, which which proves in 1311, of Amiens in Bishop of Robert, Bishop by Robert,
charter by charter seventeenth the seventeenth before the in France before known in
was known flakypastry that flaky that pastry was process of making of making the
process claim, the writers daim, some writers when, sorne century, century, when,
painter. the pain Gel6e, the Claude Gelée, by Claude invented by pastry was was
invented flaky ter. flaky pastry into organised into pastry-cooks, organised
centuries, pastry-cooks, following centuries, tn the ihe following In also but also
above' but listed above, pastries listed the pastries produced not not only only
the guilds, produced guilds, joyeux, brioches, bridaneaux, gdteaux joyeux,
brioches, bridaneaux, gAteaux bavueuls, bavueuls, gâteaux gâteaux biscuits,
matzipan biscuits, kinds, marzipan various kinds, of various pains d'épices,
waffies of d ipices, waffies pains

royaleswhich tarts tarts and and flans flans garnished garnished in in various
various ways;pAtes ways; pâtes royales which dough cakes, were of meringue;
meringue; almond almond cakes, cakes, dough cakes, were a a kind kind of Milan,
cracknels and gdteaux de Beauce; Beauce; gdteaux gâteaux de de Milan, cracknels and
gâteaux de flamiches. fiamiches. (See (See FESTIVE FESTIVE COOKERY') COOKERY.)
some of the CAKES CAKES AND AND SMALL SMALL CAKES CAKES - We We list list below
below sorne of the cakes. Recipes for many -of small gdteaux and known best best
known gâteaux and smaU cakes. Recipes for many of in alphabetical order them them
will will be be found found in in this this section section or or in alphabetical
order throughout throughout the the book. book. Angel cake , , Amandines, Alizar ,
Almond Alcazar,, Allumettes Allumettes, Almond cake cake, Amandines, Angel cake,
cake. Apple Apple cake. - -Baba, Biscuits h la Biscuits de Baba, BAton Bâton de de
Jacob, Jacob, Biscuits de Bruxelles, Bruxelles, Biscuits à la Boule de Bisanits de
cailler, cuiller, Biscuits de Savoie, Savoie, Bouchies Bouchées it à l'abricot,
l'abricot, Boule de Briochin' neige, Brestois, Breton, neige, Brestois, Breton,
Brioche, Brioche, Brioche Brioche Goubaud, Goubaud, Briochin. la crime,
Conversation, Chausson aux pommes, pommes, Cornets Cornets d à la crème,
Conversation, Chausson aux Croquembouche. Croquembouche. Diion, Duchesse,
Dampfnudetn, Dampfnudeln, Darioles, Darioles, Dartois, Dartois, Dijon, Duchesse,
Dumpling. Dumpling. Eclairs. EchaudCs. Éclairs. Échaudés, abricots, Flan aux
abricots aux abricots, amandes, Flan aux amandes, Feuilleti au)( Feuilleté Flan aux
Flan aux abricots cerises , Flm aux fruits , Flan meringud , aux cerises, FIan aux
d l'alsacienne, I' alsacienne , Flan à Flan auxfruits, Flan meringué, aux poires,
Flan pAches, Flan aux Flan mirabelles, Flan aux pêches, Flan aux aux mirabelles,
Flan aux Flan poires, Flan pommes grilli, Flan aux prunes' Flan aux pommes, aux aux
pommes, Flan aux pommes grillé, Flan aux prunes. Ghteat de citrouille, h l'orange,
I'orange, Gâteau Galette à Gatette feuilletée, feuitletie, Galette de citrouille,
Galette Ginoise au chocolat, d l'abricot, I'abricot, Génoise Ginoise à voyage,
Génoise di voyage, Gdteau de Gâteau au chocolat, Goren' Gimblette, normande, d la
Ginoise moka, an moka, Génoise à la normande, Gimblette, GorenGinoise au Génoise
Gougire. flot, fiot, Gougère. Inngues de chat. Kouglof, Langues Koulitsche,
Kouglof, Kiche, Koulitsche, Jalousie, Kiche, Jalousie, de chat. cake, Madeleines,
Mal' Madeira cake, Madasgar, Madeira Macaroons, Madasgar, Macaroons, Madeleines,
Malgac he, M anc hons, M andarine, M anqui, M arignan, M9s c o t 1e-' gache,
Manchons, Mandarine, Manqué, Marignan, Mascotte, M erveilles, MilM eringues,
Merveilles, M azarin, Meringues, M assillon, Mazarin, M assepain, Massillon,
Massepain, MilRouen, Moka, de Mirliton Millasous, anais, Miltefeuilles, anais,
Millefeuilles, Millasous, Mirliton de Rouen, Moka, Montmorency, Monte-Cristo,
Montmorency, Moques, Monte-Cristo, Mokatine, ·Moques, Mokatine, Mousseline.
Mousseline.

(Desmeuzes.Phol. I'arousse) Phot. cakes Small Small cakes (Desmeuzes. Larousse)

Buns (Claire)

Buns (C/aire)

r77 177
CAKE CAKE
Nantais, N apolitain, Nemour s, Ndr oli, Norvdgien, N ougat, Nantais, Napoli/ain,
Nemours, Néroli, Norvégien, Nougat, Nouga/ine. Oublies, Pain anglais, Pain d
I'anis, pain azyme, pain Oublies, Pain anglais, Pain à l'anis, Pain azyme, Pain
complet, Pain de mais, Pain de Ia Mecque, palais de dames, complet, Pain de maïs,
Pain de la Mecque, Palais de dames, Palmiers, Paneton, Parisien, Pastis dt Biarn.
pavi au Palmiers, Paneton, Parisien, Pastis du Béarn, Pavé au chocolat, Pavd aux
fruits, Pavd au moka, pavi aux noisettes, chocolat, Pavé aux fruits, Pavé au moka,
Pavé aux noise lies, Pithiviers, Plum cake, Pogne de Romans, pont-neuf, poupelin,
Pithiviers, P/um cake, Pogne de Romans, Pont-neuf, Poupelin, Profiteroles, Punch
cake, Puits d'amour. Profiteroles, Punch cake, Puits d'amour. quar r ts, Quic he,
Quille t. Quat e Quatre-quarts, Quiche, Quille/. Rabo t t e, Rame quin, Re lig ieus
e, Riche lieu, Rigodon. Rabotte, Ramequin, Religieuse, Richelieu, Rigodon.
Nougatine.

ils;

:::

b5;i,

GermanEaster Eastercake (Ostertorte) cake(Ostertorte) Gennan

ofsugar sugarsurrounded surrounded by by44small smallchocolate chocolate eggs, of

eggs,each inits eachin its
Giteau SaintH onor6 ( Lar ous sel Gâteau Saint-Honoré (Larousse)

Sablis, Sacristains, Sacristains, Saint-Honoré, Saint-Honori, Saint-James, Saint-

James. SaintSaintSablés, Michel, Savarin, Savarin, Savarin Savarin à d la crime,
Savarin la crème, Savarin aux aux cerises, cerises, Michel, Schaleth à d lajuive,
ln juive, Shortbread, Solilime, Souvarov, Spdculos, Sehaleth Shor/bread, Solilème,
Souvarov, Spéculos, Strizel, St Strudel, Sultane. ru dei, Sultane. Strizel, Tarte
alsacienne, alsacienne, Tarte Tarte auxfruits aux fruits à h l'allemande,
I'allemande, Tarte Tarte aux aux Tarte d l'anglaise, I'anglaise, Tarte Tarte aux
aux fruits, Tarte des des demoiselles fruits à demoiselles fruits, Tarte fruits
Tatin, Tarte Tarte au au riz, riz, Tarte Tarte à d la la rhubarbe, rhubarbe,
Tartelelles, Tartelettes, Tôt-fai/, T6t-fait, Ta/in, Trois-frires. Trois-frères.
Vacherin, Victoria Victoria cake. cake. Vacherin, Almond cake cake See ALMONO.
ALMOND. - See Almond (American pastry) Angel cake (American pastry) Whisk 8 8 egg
egg whites whites stiffty, stiffiy, - Whisk Angel cake add I teaspoon teaspoon
cream cream of of tartar tartar dissolved dissolved in in a a little little water,
water. add 1 and275 (10 OZ., oz., lf cups) sugar. sugar. and 275 g. g. (10 li cups)
Fold 100 g. oz., 1 I cup) cup) sifted sifted flour flour and and a a few few drops
g. (a (4 OZ., Fold in in 100 vanilla or l] vanilla-flavoured sugar. vanilla essence
essence or 1t teaspoons teaspoons vanilla-flavoured Whisk a large, unbuttered angel
cake cike Whisk lightly, lightly, and and pour pour into into a large, unbuttered
pan pan with with a a centre centre tube. tube. Bake .,325oF., Gas Mark moderate
oven oyen (160'C (160°C., 325°F., Gas Mark 3) 3) for for Bake in in a a moderate 45
cake rack 45 minutes minutes to to I 1 hour. hour. Invert Invert the the tin tin on
on a a cake rack and and cool taking before out of of the the mould. mould. before
taking the the cake cake out Apple Apple cake cake - See See APPLE. APPLE.
Christmas yule yule log. log. n0crm BÛCHE DE DE NoEL NOËL - Symbolic Symbolic cake
sold by _ Christmas French French confectioners confectioners at at Christmas
Christmas time. time. It It is is made made of Genoese Genoese cake cake (see (see
GENOESE) GENOESE) spread spread with with various various creams, crea ms, usually
a log butter cream. cream. It It is is rolled rolled into into the the shape of ofa
log and usually a a butter decorated decorated by by icing icing the the cake cake
with with lengthwise lengthwise strips strips of of cliocochocolate butter cream
cream to to represent represent the the bark bark ofthe of the log. log. late or or
coffee coffee butter At another symbolic symbolic cake cake is is made made in in
France. France. It At Christmas Christmas another is is shaped shaped like like a a
wooden wood en shoe, shoe, made made of of nougat nougat and and decorated decora
ted with withpetits petitsfozrs fours (q.v.). (q.v.). Easter Easter cakg cake,
German German (Ostertorte) (Ostertorte) - Make Make a a sponge sponge cake cake of
125 125 g.(4+ g. (4! oz., OZ., generous generous cup) cup) sifted sifted flour,
flour, 100 100 g. g. dough of 99ugtr (4 (4 oz.,l OZ., t cup) cup) sugar, sugar, 5 5
eggs eggs (yolks (yolks and and whites whites separated) separated) and and 100
100g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., * 1 cup) cup) butter. butter. Bake Gas Mark Mark Bakein
inaamoderately moderately hot hot oven oyen (190.C., (190°C., 375.F., 375°F., Gas
5) 5) for for 40 40 to to 45 45 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn the the cake cake out
out of of the the mould. mould, allow allow to to cool, cool, and and cut eut it it
across across into into halves. halves. Spread Spread one one half half with with
coffee-flavoured coffee-flavoured butter butter cream. cream. Place Place the the
halves halves totogether ICING). gether and and ice ice the the cake cake with with
Fondant Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING). Decorate Oecorate with with a a
border border of of butter butter cream cream piped piped through through aa
forcing-bag of forcing-bagand andwith withchocolate chocolateeggs, eggs,each
eachsitting sittingon onaaneit nestof the thesame samecream. cream.In Inthe
thecentre centreof ofthe thecake cakeplace placeaachick chick made made
178 178

nest of of butter buttercream. crearn. nest pArNDE Fruit loaf loaf or (Alsation
pastry). orBireweck Bireweck (AJsation pastry). PAIN Fruit DEFRUITS FRUrrs -
Ingredients. 1 (2{ lb., I kg. kg. (2-!lb., 99cups) cups)sieved Ingredients. (IOZ.,
sieved Hour, flour, 25 g.(1 25g. oz., I cake) yeast, 500 cake) yeast, (generous 1I
lb.) g. (generous 500 g. 1 lb.)fresh freshor pears, ordried driedpears, g. (9 (9
oz.) 250 g. fresh or oz.) fresh or dried dried apples, (9oz.) 250 apples,250 g.(9
250 g. prunes, oz.) prunes, (9 oz.) g. (9 250 g. oz.\ dried dried figs, g.(9 (9oz.)
figs,250 250g. peaches ,125 250 (4LOZ., g.(4! oz.) peaches, 125g. oz, (U.S. pitted)
cup) stoned stoned (U.S. pitred) dates, (9 OZ., i* cup) dates, 250 g.(9 250 g. oz.,
It l] cups) cups) (4 OZ., seedless raisins, raisins, 100 g. (4 100 g. oz., tJ cup)
seedless cup)chopped choppedcitron citroncandied candied peel, 50 (2 OZ., g. (2 50
g. oz., t cup) chopped peel, chopped angelica, (4 OZ., angelica, 100 g. (4 l@ g.
oz., * cup) cup) whole whole almonds, g. (4 (4 OZ., almonds, 100 100 g. ~ oz.,
if,cup) cup) hazelnuts, hazelnuts, 100 g. 3 cup) 100g. (4 OZ., I cup) oz., 1 cup)
shelled shelled walnuts, (4 walnuts, 50 g. (2 50 g. oz., t{ cup) cup) each each of
of e OZ., lemon and and orange orange rind julienne strips, rind eut lemon cut into
into julienne g. (2 (2 oz.) strips, 50 50 g. oz.) star anise, pinch of anise, a a
pinch star of spices, spices,and (3 tableand 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3
tablespoons) kirsch. kirsch. spoons) Method, Cook Cook the pears, apples, the
pears, Method. prunes, peaches apples, prunes, peaches and and figs figs in water,
w_ater, keeping keeping them in them rather rather firm. firm. Make Make the the
dough, dough, using using yeast and flour and and yeast juice in the Hour and
moistening with with the the juice in which wtrlctr the ttre fruit was was cooked.
cooked. Leave the fruit the dough dough to rise for to rise for 2 2 hours. hours.
well-drained fruit to Add the weU-drained to the the risen risen dough dough and
and mix mix weIl. well. Add the the raisins, raisins, almonds, hazelnuts, Add
hazelnuts, walnuts, walnuts, dates, dates. citron citron candied peel, peel,
angelica, angelica, orange candied orange and and lemon lemon peel, peel, anise
anise and and spices. Moisten with with kirsch and blend weIl. well. Divide the
paste paste into 200-g. Oivide (7-oz.) pieces, shape 200-9. (7-oz.) shape them them
into into small loaves, brush with water and and bake bake in in a a slow slbw oyen
oven for for lf, li hours. p.llN pound Genoa cake. PAIN DE GÊNES GBNES (lg OZ., g.
(18 500 g. oz., 31 3] cups) cups) - Pound 500 blanched almonds to a Il a powder and
and add add 325 g. (12 (12 OZ., 325 g. oz.,-ll cups) sugar. Stir with a wooden
spoon and and add add 5 5 eggs eggs one one by by one. Stir the mixture for for l0
10 minutes and (4 oz., and add add 100 g. (4 lA0 g. oz-., s_cant seant cup)
cornflour, a little little powdered vanilla, 1 tablespoon I ta6lespoon Curaçao and
and 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., l0 10 tablespoons) melted butter, p-u1aea9 melted
butter, lifting batter to aerate aerate it. Pour the the mixture into into buttered
buttered lifting the the batter in a a moderate moderate oyen. cake tins tins lined
Iined with with buttered buttered paper. paper. Bake Bake in cake oven. Genoa cake
cake will will keep well weil for for 5 5 or 6 6 days. days. Genoa Another method
method is is to pound pound 375 OZ., generous generous 1| 1~ Another 375 g. (13 oz,
cupd) cups) fine fine sugar sugar in in a a mortar mortar with 6 eggs eggs and and
2 2 drops drops bittei bitter almond is frothy, frothy, add add 65 65 [.1Ztor., g.
(2~ OZ., almond essence. essence. When When the the mixture mixture is l0
10tablespoons) tablespoons) sieved sieved flour flour and and 125 125 g. g. ($o2.,
(~oz., 9 9 tablespoons) tablespoons) Pour the the mixture mixture into into lined
lined and and melted butter. butter. Blend Blend well. weil. Pour melted buttered
cake cake tins tins and and bake bake in in a a moderate moderate oven. oyen.
buttered It kg. kg. (3* (3-!- lb., lb., 13 13 KuJich @ussian (Russian Easter Easter
cake) cake) - Place Place l] Kulich cups) flour flour in in a a warm wann bowl bowl
and and make make a a well weil in in the the centre. centre. cups) Into this this
pour pour 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,l OZ., 1cake) cake) yeast yeast dissolved dissolved
in in a a little little Into wann milk milk and and mixed mixed with with a a
little Ettle flour flour to to make make a a leaven. leaven. wann Work the the
yeast yeast mixture mixture into into the the flour, flour, cover coyer the the
bowl bowl and and Work stand the the dough dough to to rise rise in in a a warm
wann place place for for lf, li hours. hours. stand
CAKE CAKE
Add Add 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 2l 2J cups) cups) half-melted half-melted
butter, butter, l0 10 eggs, 250 250g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generouscup) cup)
fine fine sugar sugar and and a a pinch pinch ofsalt. of salt. Beat the it is is no
no longer longer sticky stickyand and comes cornes away away cleanly cleanly
themixture mixture until untîl it
from from the the bowl. bowl. Gradually Gradually work work in in I1ke. kg. QIIb.,9
(2l lb., 9 cups) cups) flour, flour, beating beating the the dough dough lightly
lightly until \lntil it it is is thoroughly thoroughly mixed. mixed. Add Add 250
250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., l] I! cups) cups) each each of of cleaned c1eaned
sultanas, sultanas, currants currants and and raisins. raisins. Leave Leave the the
dough dough to to rise fisc again again in in a a wann warm place. place. When When
well weIl risen, risen, turn turn it it onto onto a a floured floured table, table,
keeping a a small small piece piece to to decorate of the dough into into a a large
large decorate the tbe cake. cake. Make Make the the rest rest of well-buttered
baking tin. ball in alarge, a bail and and place place in Roll il into long, long,
wide wide Roll out out the the reserved dough dough and cut eut it strips. strips.
Twist Twist the the strips and and decorate decorate the the cake cake with with
them. them. Allow ta rise rise again again for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Brush
Brush with with a a Allow the the cake cake to mixture of egg egg yolk yolk and and
sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle chopped chopped almonds almonds on on mixture of
top, in a a hot hot oven. aven. top, and and bake bake in It Jt is is customary
cuslOmary in in Russia Russia to to ice icc and and decorate decorate the the top
top of of the [he cake. cake. Maids Maids of of honou. honour. DEMoIsELLES
DEMOISELLES D'HoNNEURn'HONNEUR - The The recipe recipe for for these in England,
was was these cakes, cakes, which which enjoyed enjoyed a great great reputation
reputatÎon in for for a long long time time kept kept secret. History relates
relates that Anne Anne Boleyn, then of honour honour at al the English Court, first
firsl made made these then a maid of pleasing King cakes in the hope hope of ofp!
easing King Henry Henry VIII Vlll who who was fond cakes in of of his his food.
King King Henry, Henry, finding finding them excellent, excellent, called them
'maids of honour'. honour', which has been their name ever since. since. 'maids of
The to have have been been The secret secret recipe for for the the cakes cakes was
was said said to of bought bought for f,1000. flOOO. Maids of honour were were the
the speciality of Richmond Rjchmond (Surrey), where a confectioner confeclioner
claimed to to have the secret recipe, and to ta make make the only true maids of
honour, honour, country. all parts of the country. which he sent out daily to ail
of light putr pastry, with a filling tans oflight filling The cakes are little
tarts and lemon. made of egg, ground almonds and paste for is LA MEcQLJE Mecca
MecC1l cakes. PAINS PA1NS DE DE LA MECQUE for these these is - The paste as Chou
paste the same as poste (see CHOU). shape of in the the sh the paste Force the
Force paste through a pastry-bag in ape of egg, metal baking sheet. Brush with
beaten egg, little eggs onto a a me!al eggs ooto hot aven. oven. a hot and bake in
a sprinkle with granulated sugar and prepared as follows: as follows: is prepared
cake whîch which tS Phur cake Phml - English cake and (18 oz., until creamy,
creamy, and g. (18 2| cups) butter butter until oz., 21 500 g. Soften 500 Soften
(18 oz., sugar. g. (18 oz., 2{ cups) sugar. Add 500 g. whisk until it turns white.
Add 8 or or 9 9 one, 8 add, one one by one. and add, minutes, and for a a few few
minutes, Whisk again again for Whisk (9 oz., l| cups) g. (9 oz., I! 250 g. Add 250
all the the time. time. Add whisking ail eggs, whisking eggs, (7 oz., g. (7 (lemon
and 200 g. oz., orange), 20{) and orange), chopped candied candied peel (lemon
chopped (5 oz., g. (5 I cup) cup) best best oz., 1 raisins, 150 g. stoned (U.S.
pitted) raisins, lf cups) sloned li (5 oz" g. (5 I cup) cup) currants. currants.
oz., 1 and 150 150 g. sultanas and sultanas lj mixed with with 1 tea(18 oz., sifted
flour flour mixed cups) sÎfted o2.,4| Add 500 500 g. (18 4 ~ cups) t teaAdd and t
dl. rind of21emons of 2 lemons aod the grated rind spoons baking powder; the spoons
I dl. (3 tablespoons, rum. scant { cup) rum. tablespoons, scan! (3 4 cm. cm. paper,
so it extends extends 4 so Ihat that il a cake-tin cake-tin with greased paper,
Line a LÎne into the the mixture into (l] inches) Pour the the mixture of the the
tin. tin. Pour above the inches) above the rim of (I-!Bake in in a a fill il it
over over two-thirds. two-thirds. Bake to fiH not 10 taking care care not tin,
taking tin, hour. I hour. after 1 heat after reducing heat hours, reducing for J3
104 to 4 hours, moderate aven oven for moderate sponge' Savoy spnngewrth Savoy
mould with charlotte mould Fill aa charlotte Punch cake cake PlHlcb - Fil! turn the
cake. cake, tum (see SPONGE Bake the CAKES). Bake SPONGE CAKES). cake mixture
mixture (see cake days. for two two days. and leave leave for out, and out,
thickness' of equal equal thickness, slices of horizontal sUces three horizontal
cake into into thrce Cut the cake Clltthe jam. Decoratc Decorate with with apricot
jam. with apricot and caver cover with in rum rum and them in soak soak them in the
the oyen. oven. finish in and finish meringue and meringue (4 OZ., g. (4 cup)
oz., ,1* cup) 100 g. punch cake. llil.4;ix 100 cake. Mix the punch Meringue for
Meringue for the (3 tablespoons, cup) scant J dl. (3 tablespoons, scant finely
sieved apricot jam, sieved apricot I cup) finely * dl. iam, 1(a oz., fine sugar. g.
(4 cup) fine sugar. oz., i100 g. rum, 1 I tablespoon Curaçao, Curagao, 100 rum, I
cup) whites. egg whiles. Fold in in 6 6 stiffiy beaten egg Fold pArN D'ÉPICE for be
used used for should be Rye Rour flour should o'6plce -- Rye Spice cake. cake. PAfN
is not not It is used' lt flour can can be be used. wheat flour loaf, but ordinary
wheat but ordinary spicod Joaf, cake. quality honey this cake. for this honey for
necessary 10 to use use best best qua!ity necessary nearly 10 to boiling point
(18oz., honey nearly 1] cups) g. (18 cups) honey oz., I! Heat 500 500 g. Heat 4!
cups) sieved Put 500 500 g. ((18 scum. Put and remove remove the the scum. and 18
oz, 4-!pour the honey honey into a well in the bowl, pour flour into into aa bowl,
bread flour bread
179 179

It may centre centre and and stir. stiLl! maybe benecessary necessary to ta add add
more mOTeflour flour to tomake make a Form the the paste into into a a ball, bail,
wrap wrap in in a a cloth c10th and and a firm finn paste. paste. Form leave add 12
12 g.e g. (t oz.) oz.) powdered powdered yeast yeast leave to ta prove. prove.
After After I1hour add (dried is used used without without moistening) moistening)
and and (dried chemical chemical yeast yeast which which is knead knead vigorously.
vigorously. (18 g. 4| sieved oz., cups) Another Another method method is is to to
mix mix 500 500 g. (18 OZ., cups) sieved bread 500 g. g, (18 (18 oz., OZ., l] lJ
cups) cups) honey, honey, leave to to stand, stand. brcad flour flour and and 500

'

and 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz', oz., I t and knead knead as as described described above,
a bove. adding adding 100 cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 12 12 g.Q g. (1 oz.)
oz.) dried dried yeast, yeasl, used uscd as as indicated indicated (2 g. cup)
powder, 50 oz., above, l~ teaspoons baking baking powder, 50 g. (2 oz., I above, l|
tableblanched, 25 g. g. (l (! oz.,ll OZ., blanched, dried and and chopped chopped
almonds, almonds, 25 spoons) spoons) each each of of chopped chopped candied
candied orange orange and and lemon lemon peel. peel. g. The be added addcd to ta
this th is dough: d ough: l0 lOg. The following following can can also also be $
oz,') oz.) aniseed, anisced, a a pinch pinch of of cinnamon, cinnamon, a a pinch of
of powdered powdered cloves, and I tablespoon and! tablespoon grated gratcd or or
chopped lemon lemon or or orange orange peel. peel. Roll to the the desired desired
thickness lhickness and and put put it il on on Roll out out either either dough
dough to a a buttered buttered baking baking sheet, sheet, or or into lnto baking
tins. tins. Bake Bake in in a a modermoderate As soon soon as as the the cake cake
is Îs cooked brush brush the the surface surface ate oven. oyen. As with with milk
milk sweetened swectened with wilh sugar sugar (it (it should should be be like
like a a thick thick syrup) few seconds seconds in in the the oven. oyen. The The
milk milk can can syrup) and and leave leave for for a a few (see be be replaced
replaced by by sugar syrup, cooked cooked to to a a thread thread (see SUGAR).
SUGAR). Twelfth-Night Twelftb-Night cakes. cArrnux DEs DES RoE ROIS - The The
custom custom of of baking baking Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cakes cakes is is
still still observed observed and and the the celecelebration bration that that
takes takes place place in in most mos! French French homes homes when when the the
Twelfth-Night cake is eaten, eaten, is is a a relic relie of of the the pagan feast
fcast cake is called the Basilinda. The Îs given to to the the called the The name
name phoebe which whîch is bean or symbolic symbolic favour favour baked baked in
the the cake, cake, is is believed to to be be a a bean or word iphibe corruption
corruption of of the the word éphèbe 'a 'a son son of of the the house' house'
given given by by pointed the table, under who, hidden child the the Romans Romans
to to the t he ch ild who, hidden under the table, poin ted piece which which held
guest chosen out the chosen to out the guest to receive receive the the piece held
the the phoebe. phnebe. vigorously was vigorously ceremonial was In the seventeenth
century the Jn the seventeenth the ceremonial attention Saint-Germain, but attacked
by the priests anacked by the priests of Saint-Germain, but attention this to which
which this to the excesses ta much earlier earlier 10 drawn much had the excesses
had been been drawn quotes a from a a a passage from Pasquier quotes custom could
could give rise. Pasquier custom the to the Neargorgus, which refers ta by Thomas
Neargorgus, manuscript by manuscript festival: festival: lot and clect a king by by
lot elect a dine Ihen, then, and to dine come IOgether together to .'Many Many come
he himself. Next, he ministers for for himseJf. king chooses chooses ministers This
king vote. This or vote. or celebrations days, the the celebrations for several
several days, lasts for feast which which lasts opens the the feast opens purses
Idt, left, and and the the empty purses are only only empty there are continuing
until until there contînuing paid. come ta to be be paid. creditors come creditors
follow their their example. They, haste to to follow make haste 'Their sons sons
then then make 'Their with banquets either with sumptuous banquets and hold hold
sumptuous a king king and too, eJecl elect a tao, learning parents' expense,
thereby learning expense, thereby or at at theîr their parents' stolen money,
money, or stolen time. and the the same same time. at one larceny at one and luxury
and and larceny luxury head of the family, the good the head 'Finally, on of the
same day, the on the the same 'Finally, means forth, according to his means master,
causes causes ro to be be brought forth, master, has been guests, a in which has
been a cake cake in his guesls, and the number of of his the number and He cuts
cuts the the as a a token. token. He must serve serve as coin which which must
hidden a a silver silver coin hidden his family are members members of of his
pieces as as there there are as many many pieces cake into into as cake piece. At
time, he At the the same same lime, gives each his piece. present and one his and
gives each one and for the Virgin and one for the Virgin infant Jesus, Jesus, one
for the the infant one for keeps back back one gives these to the the these ta he
then names he then gives whose names in whose Magi, in one for the the Magi, one
piece containing silver the silver containing the poor. Whosoever the piece
receives the Whosoever receives poor. joy.' for joy.' shout for all the the guests
shout and aU coin is recognised as king, and of the the " distribution of attending
the distribution Although the ceremonial attending to what it it used used lO from
what rather different different l'rom and rather is now now shorter shorter and
cake is cake queenchosen at the the chosen at king or or queen that Ihe the king
demands that custom still still demands be, custom be, symbolic give aadinner-party
at whîch which the thesymbolic dinner-party al feastshould in tum turn give should
in [east isserved. served. cake is cake In Paris Paris and and France. Jn of
France. The cake varies in different regions of (q.v.)' In galette (q.v,), pastry
galelle In the ile-de-France the cake is a flaky pastry yeast dough, similar to to
dough, similal from yeast is made made from the cake cake is the south south the
the like aacrown. crown. shaped like and shaped dough, and brioche dough, brioche
(18 OZ., 4I oz., 41 500 g. (18 Place 500 cake. Place Twelfth-Night cake.
BordeauxTwelfth-Night Bordeaux yeast and and oz.) yeast with 20 20g. table with on
the the table ringon inaa ring cups) Rour flour in e.G oz.) cups)
CAKE RACK RACK CAKE
teaspoons salt salt in in the themiddle. middle.Knead Kneadthe dough, adding
thedough, adding li teaspoons wholeeggs, eggs, one grated rind one by byone,
one,grated rind of of1I lemon, lemon,200 g. 2Ng. 88 whole (7 oz., scant cup) sugar,
and 200 g.(7 oz.,scant cup) softened (7 oz., scant cup) sugar, and 200 g. (7 oz.,
scant cup) softened butter. Mix Mix these theseingredients ingredients thoroughly.
thoroughly. Leave Leave the thedough, dough, butter. whichshould should be limp, to
belimp, rise in torise inaawarm place overnight. warm place overnight. which Next
day, day, knock knock down down the thedough doughas asfor Brioche dough dough(see
Next for Brioche (see DOUGH), divide parts each divide into intoequal equal parts
each shaped shapedinto into aacrown, crown, DOUGH), place on on buttered paperand
buttered paper andleave leaveto to rise rise in in aa warm warm cupcupplace board.
Leave Leave the crowns to the crowns to cool cool and and brush with beaten brush
with beaten egg. egg. board. Decorate with with slices slices of of citron citron
and and crystallised crystallised sugar, sugar, and and Decorate in aa moderate
bake in moderate oyen. oven. bake Another method method is is to yeastdough to make
make aa yeast g. dough of of 250 250 g. Another (9 oz., o2.,2| cups) sieved sieved
flour flour and and 20 20 g. yeast. Add oz.) yeast. Add e. (i G oz.) (9 2i cups)
water, to to make make the dough limp, limp, and the dougb and leave leave it it to
to rise rise in in aawarrn warm water, place. place. Make a a weil well in in the
(2+ lb., the centre centre of I kg. of 1 kg. (2i 1b.,9 cups) sieved sieved Make 9
cups) flour, and and add add 8 8 whole whole eggs and a pinch of eggs and a pinch
of salt. salt. Make Make aa lukelukeflour, wann syrup (9 oz., syrup with with 250
g. (9 250 g. generous cup) oz., generous cup) sugar, sugar, the the warm grated
rinds rinds of of 2 2 lemons lemons and and 2 (|-pint, 1l|2 oranges, oranges, a a
3-dl. 3-dl. (t-pint, grated tcup) mixture mixture of of orange-flower orange-flower
water, water, water water and and rum, rum, and and stir stir cup) gently. Add Add
to to the other ingredients ingredients in the other in the gradually well, mix the
weil, mix gradually gently. with the the flour flour and and when when weil well
blended blended add yeast dough. add the the yeast dough. with Mix thoroughly.
thoroughly. Mix Place the the dough dough in in a a fioured floured bowl, bowf
leaving leaving it it in in a a warm warm Place plaoe to to rise. rise. Knock Knock
down down the the dough dough and and then then shape shape it it into into a a
place crown on on a a floured floured table. Place the table. Place the crown crown
on on a a baking baking sheet sheet crown covered with paper and with buttered
buttered paper and decorate decorate the top with pieces the top with pieces
covered of citron. citron. Leave Leave to to rise. rise. Brush Brush the yolk and
the cake cake with with egg egg yolk and of a a (150"C., bake in in a a cool cool
oyen oven (l50 300oF., Gas Mark Mark 2) 2) for for 1 1{ bake C., 300 F., Gas t
hours. hours. Limoux Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake. cake. This This cake, cake,
also also in in the the shape shape of of Limoux a crown, crown, is is made made
from from dough dough similar similar to to that that used used for for the the a
Bordeaux Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake, cake, but but is is richly richly
decorated decorated with with Bordeaux candied citron. citron. candied Wedding
cake. GÂTEAU cArnlu DE DE NOCE Nocts In England England the the centrecentreWedding
cake. - In piece of of the wedding reception is the the wedding wedding cake. cake.
This This piece the wedding reception is cake, made made in 2 or or 3 3 tiers,
tiers, is is a a symbol symbol rather rather than a a delicacy; cake, in 2 a down
from from one century century to to the the next. a tradition tradition handed
handed down next. The cake must as each guest is wedding guest given a slice and is
given cake must be be large large as each wedding pieces are sent sent in absent
relations and boxes to and pieces are in decorated decorated boxes to absent
friends. friends. The (211b.,4+ kg. (2i cups) butter, 1 I kg. The ingredients
ingredients are: are: I 1 kg. lb., 4t cups) (2* (18 oz., g. (18 ground al4| cups)
oz., 4t cups) ground (2t lb., lb., 4| 4t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, 5CI 500 g. monds
g. (18 3tcups) monds or or pounded pounded almonds, almonds, 500 g. (18 oz., 3t
cups) chopped candied candied peel, peel, 5@ 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz .. 3l 3t
cups) cu ps) each each of of stoned stoned (U.S. (U. S. pitted) lf kg. (2* l cups)
pitted) raisins, raisins, sultanas sultanas and and currants, currants, It (2i lb.,
lb., l II flour flour sieved sieved with with 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons baking baking
powder, powder, 16 16 to to 18 whole 15 g.(:* whole eggs, eggs, according according
to to size, size, 15 g. (t o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) allspice, allspice, I 1 dl.
dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) cup) rum. rum. Line Line
the bottom bottom and and sides sides of of three three graduated graduated round
round cake tins with buttered buttered paper paper and and fill fil! with with the
the mixture. mixture. Bake Bake in in a cool oven oyen (150'C., (l50 a C., 300'F.,
300 a F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 2). 2). Test Test with with a a skewer after 3 3 hours,
hours, and and then then at at half-hourly half-hourly intervals intervals until
untiJ cooked. The The cake cake should should be be made made several severa! days
days before before decorating decorating it, it, to to give give the the mixture
mixture time time to to settle. settle. Trim Trim each each tier tier so so that
that it it is is flat and round, round, then then spread spread with with apricot
apricot jam jam and cover coYer flat and completely completely with with a a layer
layer of of almond almond paste, paste, * l cm. cm. (* (i inch) inch) thick. thick.
y'.f,tar 24 Level Levcl the the tops tops of of the the tiers tiers with with a a
rolling-pin. rolling-pin. After 24 hours, hours, ice ice each each tier, tier,
covering covering all al! parts parts which which will will be be visible visible
when when they they are are put put on on top top of of one one another. another.
Arrange Arrange the the tiers tiers on on a a low low stand. stand. Decorate
Decorate the the cake cake with with motifs motifs made made by by forcing forcing
Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) lCING) through through a a piping-bag,
piping-bag, and and place place an an ornamental omamental motif motif or or spray
spray of of flowers flowers on on the the top top tier. tier.

lj

CALABASH GOURD GOURD or BOTTLEGOURD. orBOTTLE GOURD.CALEBASSE CALABASH

cALEBASsEFruitof ofthe thecalabash calabashtree treeof whichseveral ofwhich
severalspecies speciesare Fruit known. areknown. Onespecies species has haslong
long leaves leavesand greenshell andaahard hardgreen shellwith withacid One acid
whitepulp pulpinside, inside, which which is ismade madeinto intoaasyrup syrupin
white intropical tropical Americaand andthe theWest WestIndies. Indies.The
gourdsare Thegourds aremade America madeinto into Calabash pipes pipes (imported
(imported from fromSouth South Africa), Africa), drinking Calabash drinking
vesselsand andother otherarticles. articles. vessels

Calappa Calappa

Calamary Calamary

(Squid). CALMAR CALAMARY (Squid). cALMAR -- Common Common name name for for certain
certain varieties of of cephalopoda, which varieties which have have elongated
elongated bodies, bodies, and and arrns or or tentacles with arrns with suckers
suckers on on the the tips. tips. They They are are found found mainly in in mid-
ocean depths depths or mainly or far far out out to to sea, sea, but but come come
to to near the the coasts. coasts. spawn near Like cuttlefish, cuttlefish, calamary
Like calamary have have a a bag bag situated situated near near the the heart which
which contains contains a heart a dark dark inky inky liquid tiquid used painting
used in in painting the name of sepia. under the This mollusc is considered
considered a a great delicacy delicacy in tbe the MediterMediterranean ranean
region. region. Calamaries in (in their in su su tinta tinta (in their ink) ink) is
is a a Spanish speciali ty. speciality. Stuffd calamary (squid) (squid) à Stuffed I
la marseillaise. marseillalse. CALMAR clrum FARCI rmcr À A LA MARSETLLATSE
MARSEILLAISE calamaries, rem ove the remove the black ink - Take 4 calamaries, bag,
bag, the the cranial cranial cartilage and and the the tentacles. Wash the the body
sacs and place them flat Hat on a a clotho cloth. Fry a a finely chopped onion
onion in a a few few tablespoons oil, oil, add the finely chopped tentacles and 2 2
or 3 chopped chopped tomatoes. Season Season and and fry fry together. Soak Soak a
piece of of French French bread in milk, squeeze it it out and and add add it it to
to the the pan pan with 2 2 garlic garlic cloyes cloves chopped chopped with with
parsley. parsley. Blend Blend well, weil, moisten moi sten with witb 2 2
tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) hot water, add 2 or 3 egg
yolks and and remove from the the heat. heat. Fill Fill the the calamaries
calamaries three-quarters full with the the resulting resulting forcemeat,
forcemeat, which which should be fairly thick. Sew them up and put them them one
one by by one into a pan with some sorne oil. up separately a a finely finely
chopped onion and add a bay bay leaf leaf Fry separately and a a crushed crushed
clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Blend Blend in I 1 tablespoon tablespoon flour
and and and moisten moisten with with I 1 glass glass each each of of white white
wine and hot hot water. SeaSeason son with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and
and simmer for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Strain Strain this sauce sauce over over the
the calamaries, calamaries, sprinkle with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs this and oil oil
and and gently gently brown brown the the top. top. and
CALAPPA (Box (Box crab). crab). cALAppE CALAPPE (coe (cOQ or DE uBn) MER) CALAPPA
which has has a a certain certain similarity similarity to to the the crab. crab.
which
-

Shellfish Shellfish

CAXE CAKE RACK RACK or or TRAY. TRA Y. cRTLLEGRILLE - Flat Flat tray, tra y, made
made from f rom wirewiremesh, mesh, on on which which cakes cakes are are put put
to to cool cool when when they they are are taken taken from from the the oven.
oyen.
180 180

CALEFACTION. c,c,rfracfloN CALÉFACTION - Action of warming. warming. CALEFACTION. -

Action of Phenomenon whereby whereby a a drop drop of of water water hitting
hitting a a very very hot hot Phenomenon
CAMEL CAMEL
surface takes takes on a a spheroid spheroid shape shape and and does does not not
dissipate dissipate surfac€ immediately because because of of the the layer layer
of of steam steam which which seals seals it off. immediately CALF. VEAU VEAU - See
See also also VEAL. VEAL. CALF. Calves' brains - See See OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY
V ARIETY MEATS. \1 EA TS. Calves'brainsCalf's crow. crow. FRAISE FRAISE DE DE vEAU
VEAU - Membrane Membrane which which covers covers the the Calf's

intestines of of the the calf. calf. This This may may be be cooked cooked in in
various various ways ways (see (see intestines
Cambaceres I 753- I E24) Cambacérès ((1753-1824)

OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS MEATS Calf's CalFs rnesentery-) mesentery.) OFFAL
However the the crow crow is is to to be be prepared, prepared, it it must must
first first be be cooked However in a a flour-and-water ftour-and-water stock,
stock, as for Calf's CalFs head head (see below). below). in Calf's eors. ears.
oREILLEs OREILLES DE DE vEAU VEAU - Calf's Calf's ears must must be well Calf's and
blanched blanched before before use. use. (See OFFAL OFFAL or VARIVARIc1eaned and
cleaned MEATS.) ETY MEATS.) Calf's feet. feet. ptnps PIEDS DE DE vEAU VEAU - Blanch
and cook the feet feet in Calf's f1our-and-water stock, stock, llke like Calfs
head. head. (See (See OFFAL OFF AL or a flour-and-water VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.)
cooked in in a flour-and-water ftour-and-water stock stock and served served à d la
vinaigrette. cooked (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.)
Calf's heafr. heart. coEUR COEUR DE DE vEAU VEAU - All Ali the the recipes recipes
for calf's which may be cooked kidneys are suitable for calf's heart, which (See
OFFAL whole, braised, pot pot roasted roasted or or roasted. roasted. (See OFFAL or
whole, VARIETY MEATS.) VARTETY Calf's kidneys kidneys - See OFFAL or VARIETY Calf's
VARIETY MEATS. See OFFAL Calf's liver liverSee OFFAL OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETY
MEATS. Calfns - See RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU - Considered Considered the most Calves'
sweetbreads. RIS delicate of of the white offal meats. They can be cooked whole,
sliced in médaillons, midaillons, or in various other ways. (See OFFAL VARIETY
MEATS.) or VARIETY udder. TÉTINE DE vEAU VEAU - Mostly in Jewish Mostly used used
in rfril{s DE Calf's udder. taking the place of cookery, taking of bacon bacon fat.
After being soaked in cold water and and blanched, the udder can be braised. head.
rBrs TÊTE DE DE VEAU VEAU - Calf's head head is is blanched, Calf's head.

heat necessary necessary to g. of The large l'C. The large raise 1 I g. of water
water by by 1°C. heat to raise calorie a The calorie is used as a calorie is equal
to to 1000 smalJ small calories. calories. The

CALORIE small calorie calorie is the amount of of CALORIE-- Unit of heat. The small

unit heat and and energy-producing unit in in expressing expressing the the heat
energy-producing qualities of food. food. Food substances are the combination
combination of results produced by the energy borrowed from solar radiations of
radiations - the source of ail is effected which is all energy On decomposition,
which energy on on earth. earth. On first by digestion and they and then by the
transformations transformations which they undergo lost restore lost substances
restore undergo in in our our organism, organism, these these substances energy
which can be released. the heat heat released. be measured by by the Experiments
have coto establish the cohave enabled scientists to establish the enabled
scientists efficients fats and and released by albuminoids, fats of calories
calories released by albuminoids, efficients of carbohydrates. Knowledge of a a
food food Knowledge of of the the composition composition of product possible to
product makes its value value in in energy, energy, makes it it possible to
calculate calculate its measured in calories. These and figures are are only
approximate and These figures only approximate average, not be drawn from from and
too be drawn average, and too rigid rigid conclusions conclusions should should not
them . them. Nutritional called diets called Nutritional experts have devised
devised slimming slimming diets experts have 'Iow-calorie 'low-calorie diets' of
content of the calorie calorie content on the based entirely entirelv on diets'
based foods. foods. CAL V ADOS -- Famous apple brandy the Normandy Normandy from
the Famous apple brandy from CALVADOS region name. region of of the the same same
name. CAMBACÉRÈS who duc de) de) -- Cambacérès Cambac6rbs who CAMBACERDS (Jean-
Jacques, lJean-Jacqueq duc was Paris in in 1824 1824 in 1753 1753 and and diéd di&J
at at Paris was born born at at Montpellier Montpellier in was after the appointed
by Bonaparte after the was the the second second consul by Bonaparte consul
appointed coup . Marco in his his diary, diary, wrote in coup d'état d'dtat Marco
de de Saint-Hilaire Saint-Hilaire wrote 'Yesterday 'Yesterday 1 table of of honour
of admitted to to the the table I had had the the honour of being being admitted
Consul four the four out of of the and 1 I must must confess confess that that out
Consul Cambacérès Cambac6rds and courses at least least sixteen sixteen or or
courses - each which consisted consisted of of at each of of which eighteen quarter
of I had had no no which 1 dishes, and and about about aa quarter of which eighteen
dishes, chance apwould have have been been apchance of of tasting single one one
would tasting - every every single proved proved by gastronomical memory. memory.
of gastronomical Lucullus or or Apicius, Apicius, of by Lucullus Under made
enormous in France France has has made enornous Under the the Republic, Republic,
cuisine cuisine in steps proclaim it in the the worId.' world.' forward, and I
proclaim it to to be be the the best best in steps forward, and 1

(himself compiling compiling the Cambac6rbs Cambacérès prepared his dinners

(himself the menus) with meticulous care menus) with care and good taste. tas te.
In In his Mimoires Mémoires 'During the Congress of Lun6ville, Bourienne tells us:
us: 'During Congress of Lunéville, the mail coaches coaches were that mail first
consul, on first consul, on being being informed informed that delicacies for the
table a lot of carrying a of goods, carrying goods, in particular particular
delicacies gave an persons, gave an order order that of prominent persons, of that
henceforward That postal nothing but but despatches. That carry nothing were to to
carry services were postal services where 1 was into the salon, where came into the
salon, Cambacerds came evening, Cambacérès evening, the alone first consul, who was
already laughing at the al one with the fust "Well, what what can colleague. "Weil,
his colleague. causd to to his embarrassment caused "I have come to you want have
come to ask want at at this hour, Cambacérès Cambac6ris?" this hour, you 7" "1 you
have given given the the in the the order you to make one one exception in you to
friends with with post. How do you expect us us to make friends director of post.
director give them You know know people if dishes? elegant d if we we can can't
them elegant people 't give ishes 7 You great extent, yourself that, it is is at at
one's one's table that that one a great extent, it that, to to a yourself great
deal, him a great deal, called called him governs." The first laughed a first
consul consul laughed governs." glutton and him on on the the shoulder shoulder and
finished finished by by slapping slapping him a glutton a poor Cambacérès, and my
poor Cambacerds, and "Console yourself, my and saying, saying, "Console and
continue to carry will continue to carry mail coaches coaches will The mail angry.
The don't be be angry. don't your Mayence p&tis, your your Strasbourg Mayence
Strasbourg pâtés, trufled turkeys, your your trufHed your partridges.'"
partridges."' and your hams and

CHEESE. de) See CHEESE. CAMBRAI (Boulette @oulette de) - See

-

or two two with one one or mammals with Large mammals CAMEL. cHAMEAU - Large CAMEL.
CHAMEAU and the the as dromedaries dromedaries and are known known as former are
The former humps. The humps. Israelites to eat to eat the Israelites forbade the
Moses forbade latter as as bactriaos. bactrians. Moses latter edict, but but by
this this edict, are not not bound bound by Arabs are The Arabs meat. The camel's
meat. camel's young and meat is is tender. tender. and the the meat are young when
they camels when they are only only eat eat camels regarded meat was was regarded
camel's meat Gallien, camel's of Gallien, From the the time time of From it was was
served served to to maintains that that it Aristophanes maintains favour.
Aristophanes with with favour. praises it. it. and Aristotle Aristotle praises
royalty, and royalty, parts most most are the the parts and the the stomach stomach
are feet and The hump, hump, the the feet The milk is is excellent. excellent'
Camel's miUc connoisseurs. Camel's appreciated by connoisseurs. appreciated by
(Arab cooking). AU CHAMEAU cHAMEAU couscous AU cooking). COUSCOUS Camel couscotxt
(Arab Carel couscous way, but substitute but substitute in the usual way, the usual
couscous in - Prepare the couscous Prepare the (see COUSCOUS) COUSCOUS).. mutton
(see young camel's for the the mutton meat for young camel's meat pimentc and
TRANcHES aubergines TRANCHES and aubergines. with pimentos Camel Camel escalopes
escdopes with iN butter SAUI6 in bUttCT ET AUBERGINES AI'BERGINES -_ Sauté POIVRONS
ET AUX POIvRONS DE DE CHAMEAU CHAMEAU AUX have which have from the sirloin, which
the sirloin, meat taken taken from slices of camel camel meat slices of juice,
sait, pepper and and spi spices. lemon juice, salt, pepper marinated in in oil,
oil, lemon been ces. been marinated Put on on each each slice slice a dish. dish.
Put on a and set set them them on Drain Drain the the slices slices and them in
oil. Pour over over them oil. Pour aubergines sautéed saut6ed in two rounds of of
aubergines two rounds juices of added 2 2 sweet sweet have been been added meat to
which have to which the of the the meat the juices in oil; oil; 1l| dl. cooked in
and cooked peeled, cut pimentos, peeled, into strips strips and cut into pimentos,
t dl. (} pi pint" l} cups) cups) tomato tomato ({ pint, pint, jdl. (t 3 dl. wine; 3
(t nt, li cup) white white wine; 3 cup) parsley. chopped parsley. garlic. Sprinkle
with chopped pur6e; and Sprinkle with purée; little garlic. and aa little A LA r.l
PIEDS DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU À la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. PIEDS Camel's feet àt la
Camel's feet young camel in and cook cook in camel and feet of of aa young
VINAIGRETTE Soak the the feet vTNATcRETTE -- Soak (see asfor for Calf'sleet Calf's
feet (see in the way as the same same way a white court-bouillon a white court-
bouillon in with serve with and serve Drain, and MEATS). Drain, OFFAL OFFAL or or
VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). (seeSAUCE). Vinaigrette SAUCE). Vinaigrette sauce sauce
(see non -- Marinate Marinate DE CHAMEAU CHAMEAU RÔTI FILET DE Roast fillet. FILET
Roast camel's camel's fiUet. juice, salt, pepper and It and spices. spices.It salt,
pepper the lemon juice, fillet with with oil, oil, lemon the fiUet

181 l8l
CAMEMBERT CAMEMBERT
can be larded with strips of larding bacon. Roast on a spit can be larded with
strips of larding bacon. Roast on a spit inthe thesame sameway wayas asfor
foraabeef beeffillet. fillet. in Roastcamel's camel's hump. hump.BOSSE BossrDE
DECHAMEAU cHAMEAURÔTIE n6rrr- - Only Only Roast thehump hump of youngcamel ofaavery
veryyoung preparedin camel is isprepared inthis thisway. way. the juice, salt,
Marinate with with oil, oil,lemon lemon juice, pepperand salt,pepper andspices.
spices. Marinate Roast in in the thesame sameway way as asfor for roast (See roast
sirIoin sirloinof ofbeef. beef.(See Roast BEEF, Roast Roast sirloin.)
sirloin.)Serve Servewith gravy, and with its itsown owngravy, andwaterwaterBEEF,
cress. cresso paunchài la Camel's paunch la marocaine. marocaine. VENTRE vnNtnr DE
nECHAMEA cHe,uEnu Camel's U ÀA LA MARocArNe Marinate Z-kg.(4t-Ib.) (4+-lb.) piece
piece of ofcamel's camel's LA MAROCAINE - - Marinate aa2-kg. paunch, trimmed and
tied with string, in oil, lemon juice, paunch, trimmed and tied with string, in
oil, lemon juice, spices and and vegetables. vegetables. Brown Brown in in oil oil
in in an an earthenware earthenware spices put 22 casserole and remove when it it
is is browned brownedail all over. over. Put casserole and remove when sliced
onions onions into into the the casserole casserole and and cook cook slowly slowly
until until soft. soft. sliced peeled, seeded Add 4 4 peeled, seeded and and
chopped chopped tomatoes, peeled, tomatoes, 44 peeled, Add seeded and and diced
diced sweet pimentos, 4 sweet pimentos, 4crushed crushed cloyes garlic, cloves of
ofgarlic, seeded and the quartered core the quartered core of of aa root root of
fennel. Season of fennel. Seasonwith with salt salt and pepper. Cook and pepper.
Cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. and pour over Return the paunch the camel's
camel's pa to the the casserole. casserole. Pour over Return unch to (f pint, it 4
pint, scant 4 dl. dl. Ct scant 2 2 cups) good stock. cups) good Add the stock. Add
liquor the liquor it from the the marinade, marinade, and garni of and a bouquet
garni a bouquet parsley, thyme, of parsley, thyme, from bay and and zest zest of of
orange. orange. Simmer Simmer for for 2t 2! hours. hours. Add Add 250 250 g. g. bay
(9 oz., generous cup) oz., generous cup) rice rice after after removing removing
the gorit. the bouquet bouquet garni. (9 Cook for for a further 25 a further 25
minutes. minutes. Cook Take out out the the meat, meat, set set it it on on a a
large large dish dish and and arrange arrange the the Take rice around around it.
it. rice prepare with pilaf. PILAF Camel pilaf. rn,lr DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU --
Prepare with lean lean Camel camel's meat meat taken taken from from the the filIet
fillet or or sirloin sirloin in in the the same same camel's way as as Mutton pilaf
(see (see PILAF). Mutton pilaf PILAF). way Ragoftt of of camel camel with with
tomato tomato sauce. sauce. RAGOÛT nlco0r DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU Ragoût A LA re
TOMATE roM,c,TE Prepare with with camel camel meat meat cut pieces and cut into
into pieces and - Prepare À juice, salt, marinated in in oil, oil, lemon lemon
juice, pepper and salt, pepper and spices, spices, in in marinated the sa same way
as as Ragoût Ragofit of (see of mutton mutton with with LOmato tomato sauce sauce
(see me way the MUTTON). MUTTON). Camel's ribs ribs with with rice. rice. CÔTES
cdrrs DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU AU AU RIZ Rrz -- Trim Trim Camel's the ribs and and
marinate marinate them juice, salt, them in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, the
camel's camel's ribs pepper and spices. spices. pepper and Saut6 in butter, lard or
oil, oil, drain drain them them of of fat, fat, and garnish and garnish Sauté in
butter, lard or with PILAF). Serve Serve with with a a sauce sauce made with with
with Rice Rice pilaf pilaf (see (see PILAF). the stock and and a a little little
tablespoons stock the juices juices to to which which a a few few tablespoons
tomato been added. added. tomato sauce sauce seasoned seasoned with with garlic
garlic have have been All of veal veal or AU methods methods of of preparation
preparation applying applying to to ribs ribs of pork pork can can be be applied
applied to to camel's camel's ribs. ribs. Asa aslang slang inFrench expression
Frenchthis thisword wordhas hastaken takenthe the As expression in (belly).
samemeaning meaningas as bedon(belly). same bedon

CANADA See SeeINTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, COOKERY. CANADA Americancookery.

cookery. American
CANAPES- -The primary meaning Theprimary meaningof ofthis thisword wordisisa aslice
CANAPÉS slice ofcrustless crustlessbread, bread,cut cutin inrectangular rectangular
shapes, shapes,the of thesize sizeand and thickness of ofwhich whichvaries
variesdepending depending on onthe thenature natureof inthickness ofingredientsto
puton tobe beput onthem. them. gredients Canapis,which whichare arealso alsocalled
calledcroûtons, cro0tons,are Canapés, aremade madeof of toastedor friedbread
orfried bread and andcan caneither eitherbe bespread spreadwith toasted withvarious
various mixtures or plain,depending leftplain, orleft dependingon onthe thenature
natureof mixtures ofthe thedishes dishes for which whichthey theyare areto toserve
serveas asan anaccompaniment. accompaniment. for Canapis, used used to accompany
winged toaccompany game,are wingedgame, Canapés, arespread spread gratinforcemeat
with à dgratin orsorne someother other forcemeat. forcemeat. with forcemeat or
(hors-d'cuwes) - - These Canapes (hors-d'œuvres) These canapés aremade canaptisare
Canapés madefrom from crustless bread, bread, home-made home-made bread bread or or
brioche crustless briochedough, dough,and and garnished with are garnished with
various various mixtures. mixtures. are Recipes for for this thistype typeof
ofcanapé, canapl,sorne Recipes someof ofwhich whichare arereferred referred toas as
canapés canapds à dla larusse, russe, will will be befound found in in the to
thesection section entitled entitled HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold Cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d
euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Canapes for for various various dishes dishes -- These These
canapés Canapés canapis are arecut cut in inrecrectangles, and and browned.
browned. They They are tangles, are mostly mostly described described as as
crottons and and are are used used as as foundations foundations for croûtons for
fried fried or grilled or grilled escalopes, noisettes, noisettes, tournedos,
tournedos, kidneys, escalopes, kidneys, etc. etc.

CAMEMBERT CAMEMBERT - See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CAMOMILE. CAMO MILE. cAMoMrLLr
CAMOMILLE - Common Common name na me for a genus of
Roman Roman or or noble noble camomile camomi/e and and the the German German or or
common
camomile. camomile. herbs whicL are herbs of of the the Compositae Compositae
family, family, two two varieties varieties of ofwhich are the

Canary grass

Camomile Camomile oil, oil, obtained obtained by by gently gently simmering

simmering 65 g. g. (Z+ (2t oz.) oz.) camomile camomile flower ftower heads heads in
in 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) olive olive oil (cam(camphorated phorated or or
not) not) for for 2 2 days days in in a a bain-marie, bain-marie, is is a a popular
popular
remedy. remedy.

CAMPANULA. CAMPANULA. clrrareNuI-n CAMPANULE - Common Common field field plant.

plant. It It has has
develops develops its its stalk. stalk.

and and is is used used as as food food by by the the local inhabitants.
inhabitants. It It was was first introduced introduced into Spain; Spain; from from
there there it was taken to the south France where it quickly quickly became became
naturalised. naturalised. In In some sorne of France parts parts of France it is
called canary canary grain, bird bird grain or spike spike
grain. grain. The other other species species of this this plant plant are are
suitable suitable only only for for The forage. forage.

CANARY GRASS. GRASS. ALprsrE ALPISTE CANARY plants of Genus of of plants of the -
Genus Graminaceae Graminaceae family, family, one species species of of which is is
cultivated in the Canary Islands Islands for for its its seed seed which is rich
rich in in edible which is edible starch
a and one one variety variety is is edible. edible. The The leaves leaves a
purplish-violet purplish-violet flower ftower and

and and roots roots can can be be eaten eaten in in salad salad if if picked picked
before before the the plant plant

CAMPEACHY CAMPEACHY WOOD WOOD (Logwood). (Logwood). Bors BOIS DE DE c.cup6crfi

CAMPÊCHE Tree Tree which which grows grows in in Mexico, Mexico, chiefly chiefty
around around Campeachy Campeachy Bay. Bay. Its Its wood, wood, if if boiled,
boiled, produces produces colouring colouring mattei matter - red red on on contact
contact with with acids, acids, turning turning violet violet on on contact contact
with with alkali. alkali. Deprived Deprived of ofits itstoxic toxicproperties,
properties, it it is is used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of
ofliqueurs liqueurs and and for for improving improving the the colour colour of of
wine. wine. CAN, DRlIM. BrDoN BIDON - Originally Originally a a wooden wood en jug
jug of of 5 5 litres litres CA N, DRUM. (4] (41 quarts, quarts, 5| 5t quarts)
quarts) capacity; capacity; nowadays nowadays a a metal metal concontainer tainer
for for liquids. liquids.
182 182

CANCALAISE (A (À LA) - Lenren Lenten garnish garnish composed of CANCALAISE oysters

and and shrimps shrimps in in Normandy Normandy sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA
UCE). oysters CANCALE - Small Small fishing fishing port port situated situated
near near the the English EngIish CANCALE Channel and and famous famous for for irc
its 'blonde' 'blonde' plump plump oysters. oysters. Channel CANCOILLOTTE - See See
CHEESE. CHEESE. CANCOILLOTTE CANDLEMAS - See See FESTM FESTIVE COOKERY. COOKERY.
CANDLEMAS CANDY (Sugar). (Sugar). cANDr CANDI (sucne) (SUCRE) - Purified,
crystallised CANDY - Purified, crystallised sugar. sugar.
CARAMEL CARAMEL
CANE. CANE. cANNE CANNE - Name Name commonly commonly given given to to different
differem species species of of reeds. reeds. Sweet Sweel calamus calamlls was was
used used in in the the past pasl as an infusion. inrusion. The TOOts of of giant
gianl or bamboo reed reed are still used used in popular popular The roots medicine
as an an infusion infusion against aga i nst lacteal lacteaJ disorders. disorders.
Sugar Sugar rnedici ne as cane cane prodtces produces sugar. sugar. Cane juice.
juice. vtsou VESOU - Liquid Liquid juice juice which which comes cornes out out of
or sugar sugar Cane by the the mi[. mil!. It Tt is is also also called vin vin de
canne canne (cane (cane cane crushed crushed by cane wine). wine). cooked cooked
pour pour in in a a few few tablespoons tahlespoons concentrated concentrated
chicken chicken stock to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been been added.
added. Serve Serve with with a a ragottt ragoûl of of mushrooms mushrooms and and
truffies truffles saut6ed sautéed in in butter, butter, and and with with SuprAme
sauce sauce (sre (see SAUCE) which which has has a a little little Madeira Madeira
.

added.

CANNELONI. clNunroNs CANNELONS cARNIs GARNIS - Pasta Pasta dish dish served served
as as hors-d'œuvre or a small entie. en/rée. (See (Sec HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE,
an hors-d'euvre an Hot Hal hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.)
CANNING·· PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FOOD. CANMNG - See PRESERVATION CANON - Old French
French wine measure of of rt litre' litre. Slang Slang term CANON ror a unit of or
liquid measure measure used usod by wine merchants. The for which means word word
comes cornes from from canon canon which means a a glass glass in in masonic termi
nology. terminology. - See CHEESE. CHEESE. CANTAL -

was

CANTALOUP - Melon, Melon, thus thus called called because originally it

mainlygrownat mainly grown al Cantalupo, Cantalupo, near near Rome. Rome. (See (See
MELON.)

cANTINE CANTEEN. CANTIl'.'E Camp or barrack shop for for liquor liquor CANTEEN. -
Camp and provisions, provisions, etc. etc. Refreshment room at al work. work.
cooking The name also applies to a small box hox containing cooking liquids.
carrying liquids. a vessel vessel for carryîng officers, and to a equipment for
officers,

CAPONATA (Sicilian (Siciliall cookery) - Peel Peel and and dice dice 4 4
auberauhergines. and when when they they have have yielded yielded their Iheir
gines. Sprinkle with with salt and juice, in oil. oil. . . fry them [hem in Shred
50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., { l cup) CUD) capers, capers, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., OZ., f ~
cup) black hlack olives, olives, I heart heart blanched blanched celery, 4 4
desalted desalted anchovies into illtO julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) strips. Fry
a thinly sliced onion lightly in oil. aiL Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz.,
lightly in ~. cup) sugar and and 2 2 dl. (* (t pint, pinL scant seant cup) tomato
tomato pur6e. puree. Boil Boil * down until it after which which add add I 1 dl.
dl. il takes takes on a dark colour, after (6 (6 tablespoons, scant scanl * i cup)
vinegar. vinegar. Leave Leave to 10 simmer for ror a few minutes, minutes, season
season generously, generously, add add some sorne chopped parsley and and mix mix
with with the the aubergines aubergines and and the the other other ingredients.
Decorate or spiny lobster, Jobster, tuna tuna (tunny) (tunny) Decorale the the top
with slices of fish fish in in oil, oll, and poutargue poutargue (salted (sal!ed
and and dried grey grey mullet mullet roes). roes). This This dish dish is is
served served both hoth in in summer summer and and winter. win ter. It Il is is
advisable to to prepare prepare it it well well in in advance advance to to allow
allow all ail the the of the sweet-sour taste ingredients be permeated permeated by
the the swect-sour taste of the Ingredients to be tomato sauce. sauce.
CAPSICUM CAPSiCUM - See PEPPER. CAPUA. cApouE CAPUA. CAPOUE - Italian town situated
near near Naples, once renowned for along with ror its ilS wines wines which,
which, along with other Olher 'delights', of Ca Cannae. corrupted soldiers after
corru pted Hannibal's HannÎ bars soldiers a ner the the battle of nnae.
call the CAPUCIN CAPUCIN - Name by by which which French hunters ca)) the hare. !
lare. (See HARE.) HARE.) (See glass or or flagon crystal bottle or crystal CARAFE
Large-based glass boule or flagon - Large-based carafe. a small carafe. carafon is
used is a tlsed for water or wine. A A carafon

The best China. The South China. CANTON capital of Soulh besl of CAI{TON - Former
capital Cantonese. all Chinese ail Chînese cuisine is Cantonese.
Small MeditercAPEL cAPELAN, CAPEL CAPELIN or CAPLIN. CAPELAN, - Small as whiting
(q.v.). fish which is is prepared prepared as ranean fish ranean a very short short
stalk. CAPENDU red apple with a CAPEI\DU - Variety of red
caper bush, which grows of the capu cApns CAPER. CAPER. CÂPRE - Floral bud or Asia
Minor, Turkey, Asia Algeria, Turkey, wild in south of France, Algeria, in the soulh
wild as a pickled in a seasoning and used are pîckled etc. Capers Capers are in
vinegar and used as etc. (nonesuch) capers are the round (llonesllch) the round The
best and condiment. condiment. The and best are Bouches-du-Rh6ne. of Var Var and
and Bouches-du-Rhône. ddpartements of from the from the départements capers, and
English capers, the English and smaller lhan than the They are are firmer They
nrmer and with pickled nasturtium nasturtium seeds. not he be confused confused
wilh should not

fish which resembles for a sea name sea nsh CAPITAINE CAPITAINE me for - French na
(q.v.) and in the the same same manner. and is is cooked in carp (q.v.)
castrated has been cock which which has been castra Young cock cHApoN -- Young CA
PON. CHAPON led CAPON. prepared are prepared Capons are its flavour. flavour.
Capons improve its and fattene<.! fattened ta to improve and (see CHICKEN).
CHICKEN). way as as chickens chickens (see in the same way in the same pArn (belle
aurore). nN PÂTE cHAPoN EN pastry crust aurore). CHAPON crust (belle in a a pastry
Capon Capon in a table, it out out on on a table, a capon. capon. Spread Spread it
AURonr -- Done Bone a BELLE BELLE AURORE separately. stuffings separately. and
spices. spices. Prepare two stuffings salt and season season with salt a chicken,
chicken, lean minced meat meat or of a made wilh with the the minced is made The
tirsl first is The with egg. and combined combined with pork, park pork fat fat and
ham, seasoned, seasoned, and and ham, (prepared with d gratin forcemeat (prepared
is made made with à The second second is mushchopped mushand chopped marrow,
truffies and livers, beef chicken livers, beef marrow, chicken Stuff the with egg.
egg. Stuff and combined combined wÎth well seasoned woms), rooms), weil seasoned
and layers. Marina Marinate in alterna alternate stuffings in capon with 1 two
capon hese t wo stuffings te layers. le these pork, breast chicken, wings wings
lean pork, of chicken, fillet, lean breast of veal tillet, strips of of veal thin
thin slrips veal sweetsweetand blanched of hare, hare, and blanched veal of red red
partridge, saddle saddle or of juice and lay and lay spices, and and spices, lemon
juice oil, Cognac, lemon breads breads in oil. quartered lruffles. Roll truffies.
Roll adding quartered the two two stuftings, stuffings, adding belween between the
with string. string. in a a doth, cloth, secured secured with and tie tie in capon
and stuffed capon the stulTed up the carrots of onion, onion, carrots a foundation
foundation of on a Cook in in a a dauMère daubiire (q.v.) on flavoured and
flavoured a very very lillie little stock stock and and ceJery celery moistened
with a and capon and and Drain 45 minules. minutes. Dra the capon for 45 with
Madeira Madeira wine, wine, for in the with it is is wrapped, lay quickly. Remove
wrapped, lay cloth in in which which it Remove the the cloth cool quickly. cool
join pastry, and and join pastry, coyer more pastry, cover wil.h with more fine
pastry, on fine the the capon on can the sleam steam can hole in in the top so so
chat that the Make a a hole the top the the edges. Make pastry leaves. Brush \Vith
with egg egg leaves. Brush with pastry and decorate decorate witb escape, and
pastry is is as the yolk and As saon the pastry moderate oyen. oven. As soon as in
a a moderate and bake bake in
183 183

for colouring colouring (Bunt sugar) cookery for Used in CARAMEL (Burllt -- Used in
cookery stocks, jellies, brown stocks, sauces, clear sou soups, stews, gravies, sa
uces, brown jellies, clear ps, stews, in pastry-making. It is also used used in
etc. Il is also paslry-making. etc. Keep small bottles with longitudinally-incised
corks, in small boules wilh Keep in which allow allow the the caramel caramel to he
be poured drop by drop. whicn (13 oz., g. (13 (confectionery). CARAMELS oz., Mous
cln,utus MOUS Caramels (confectÎonery). Caramels - 375 g. (l| pints, Li pints)
double lf pints) cream, double cream. litre (J loaf sugar. sugar, i 3 cups) loar J
1 piots, f, litre (4 OZ., glucose, (4 OZ., g. (4 g. (4 100 g. o2.,1 cup) glucose,
finest butter, oz., ~ 100 g. butter, 100 1 cup) I cup) finesl I vanilla bean. 1 pan
and glucose, and a pan and into a and vanilla vanilla into cream, glucose, Put the
the sugar, sugar, cream, Put with a a wooden wooden all lhe time wilh a high
stirring all the lime flame, stirring on a high tlame, boil on boil the sides sides
of of the the scrape the As the to boil, boil, scrape the sugar sugar begins (0
spoon. As spoon. is hf'irl1nnlYH"l beginning with the to detach the the sugar which
is basin wilh the spoon to reached the degree of has reached the degree
crystallise. When the the sugar sugar has to crystallise. to pieces, in small small
pieces, add the butter În as thread, thread, add the butter known as cooking known
cooking is reached. reached. degree is all the until hall ball degree Cook until
stirring ail the time. time. Cook slirring a slightly slightly pan from heat. Pour
Pour the the sugar sugar omo onto a Remove the from heat. the pan Remove made with
with oiled it in in a a frame frame made oiled marble slab, oiled marble slab,
keeping il oiled (| inch) inch) thick. thick. mm. (± to 6 6 mm. The sugar layer
should be be 5 to rulers. The rulers. as must on account be be scraped, scraped, as
no account The bottom of the on no the pan must The go grilly. gritty. Remove
Remove Ihe the to. go mixture to. cause the mixture would cause this would this
cold, and and completely cold, leave the caramel until until completely vanilla
bean, the caramel bean, leave vanîlla into small cut into small squares. squares.
eut AU CHOCOLAT cHocoLAT Mous AU cARAMEIS MOUS caramels CARAMELS Chocolate
caramels. Chocolate (7 oz.) g. (7 chocolate tha! that slab chocolate 200 g. oz.')
slab Add 200 recipe. Add Follow basic basic recipe. Fo\low (6 tablespoons, scant t
I dl. in 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant melted În has been been previously melted I
has cup) water, water. Clip) method Basic rnethod clrf -- Basic Mous AU AU CAFÉ
cARAMEIS MOUS Cofree caramels. caramels. CARAMEL'; Coffe(' (6 lablespoons, cup)
scant t I dl. tablespoons, seant dl. (6 with 1 as above. above. Flavour Flavour
with ] cup) as coffee essence. essence. triple strength strength coffee Iriple Aux
AVELlNF.s AVELINES Mous AUX cARAMEIS MOUS hazelnuts. CARAMELS with hazelnuts.
Caramels WÏlh Caramels in a a (3 OZ., hazelnuts in cup) blanched blanched hazelnuts
75 g. (3 o2.,3 finely 75 Pound finely -. } cup) - Pound litre moisten with with -1I
litre a bowl, Put into into a bowl, moisten mortar or or by machine. Put monar a
cloth, cloth, through a milk and and serain strain through (scant pint, pint, 2f
cups) cups) boiling boiling milk (seant
CARAMELISE CARAMELISE
pressing out out thoroughly. thoroughly. Add Addsugar sugar and and cream creamand
proand propressing ceedas for basic as f.or basic recipe. recipe. ceed prsrACHEs
Pistachio-nut caramels_ caramels. CARAMELS cARAMETs MOUS MousAUX AUx PISTACHES
Pistachio-nut Follow basic (5 oz., basic method. method. Add g. (5 Add 150 150g.
oz.,ll cups) blanched, blanched, Follow 1 cups) finely chopped chopped pistachio
pistachio nuts. nuts. finely Vanilla Aavouring flavouring may may be be addcd added
to all these to ail these different different Vanilla preparations. preparations.
This gas has This gas has no no liquid liquid state. state. When Whenil itis
iscooled cooled or ordecomdecompressedand pressed projected onto and projected onto
aacold cold surface, surface, it it solidifies solidifies in in the the fonn form
of of snow snow which. which, in in turn. turn, vaporises vaporises without without
becoming becoming aa liquid. liquid. This This property property has has been been
successfully exploited in successfully exploited in the ihe refrigerating
refrigerating industry, industry, where where blocks blocks of ofsolid solid carbon
carbon dioxide dioxide (U.S. dry (U.S. dry ice) ice) are are used used instead
instead of ice for for the of iee thecold cold storage of storage of perishable
goods, perishable goods, for for air air conditioning, conditioning, etc. etc. The
The substitution substitution of ice by of iee by solid solid carbon carbon dioxide
dioxide results great saving results in in aa great saving of of space space and
and completely completely avoids avoids humidity. humidity. Carbon Carbon dioxide
dioxide may may cause cause asphyxia asphyxia when when it it is is found found in
in large large concentration concentration in in confined confined spaces, in vals
vats for spaces, in for harvested harvested grapes, etc. grapes, In small etc. In
small doses, doses, however, however, il it is is a a stimulant. stimulant.
CARCASE. CARCASE. CARCASSE cARcAssE -- Bone Bone strllcture structure of of an an
animal. animal. ln In butcher's parlance, lhe butcher's parlance, the body a
slaughtered body of of a slaughtered animal, animal, drawn drawn and and trimmed.
trimmed.
pRES CARDAMINE CARDAMINE or LADY'S SMOCK. or LADY'S SMOCK. CRESSON cRESsoN OF..5
DEs PRÉs Common plant of Common plant of American American origin. origin. It It is
is eaten as salad, eaten as and salad, and has as watercress, but is less strong.
It conhas the the same same taste taste as watercress, but is less strong. It
contains vitamins, and tains vitamins, and is is recommended recommended for for
scorbutic scorbutic comcomplaints. plaints.

CARAMELISE. CARAMELISER crtRlrvr6rtsnn -- To To caramelise caramelise aa mould

mould in in CARAMELlSE. which aa cream cream or or sorne some other poured for
other mixture mixture is is to be poured to be for which cooking in in aa bain-
marie (q.v.), coat bain-marie (q.v.), coat it it with with sugar sugar cooked
cooked to to cooking caramel degree. degree. To To do do this, this, heat heat in
pieces cf in the the mould mould several several pieccs of caramel sugar moistened
moistened with with a a liule little water, water, until until the the sllgar sugar
acquires acquires aa sugar brown colour (see SUGAR, colour (see SUGAR, Sugar Sugar
boiling). The mould boiling). The mould brown should then then be be rotated
rotated so so as as to to coat coat the interior completely the interior completely
should with the the caramel. caramel. The The mou mould can also also be be
caramelised caramelised by by with Id cao brushing on on sugar sugar cooked cooked
to to caramel caramel degree. degree. Creams, Creams, brushing custards, and and
other other mixtmes mixtures are are caramelised caramelised by by adding adding (0
to custards, them sorne some sugar sugar cooked cooked \0 caramel degree. to
caramel degree. them

CARDAMOM. CARDAMOM. CARDAMOME c.cRonMoME -- Common Common name for for Elellaria
Elettaria cardamomum, a pecies belonging as species belonging lO ginger family,
whose to the ginger whose aroma"tic aromatic seeds are are used as as a a spiee.
spice. CARDINAL (À (A LA) garnish composed Fish garnish composed of of coquilles
coquilles - Fish cardinal, mushrooms and and slivers slivers of of trume. truffie.
CARDINAL FISH. FISH. APOGON ApocoN One of varieties of of the the varieties of red
red - One mullet, mullet, found found in in the (See MULLET.) the Mediterranean.
Mediterranean. (See MULLET.) ln In U.S.A., redtish, which is U.S.A., redfish, which
is found found from from New New Jersey Jersey to to Texas, is very similar. is
similar. which are made made to turn tum red red by by plunging plunging them which
them into into boiling boiling CARDINALISER tenn [or CARDINALISER French kitchen
kitchen term for shellfish shellfish - French

Caraway

court-bouillon.
CARDOON. CARDON - Plant of the same genus as the arti· CARDOON. cARDoN as the
artichoke, of which the stems are eaten. The principal varieties are the tbe cardon
cardon de de Tours. plein inerme inerme and while. are Tours, plein and improved
white. cardon de de Tours Tours is is best, best, though though the the stems are
are rather rather The cardon

CARAWAY. CARAWAY. cARVr CARVI - Umbelliferous Umbelliferous plant plant producing

producing black seeds, seeds, whose whose odour odour and and taste taste is is
halfway halrway between between that that of aniseed aniseed and and fennel.
fenne!. Caraway Caraway seeds seeds are are used used to to flavour Aavour certain
certain cheeses cheeses and and cakes. cakes. The The seeds, seeds, which which
have have a a carminative minative effect, effect, were were included incJuded in
in the the carminative carminative comcompounds pounds of of the the old old
pharmacopoeia. pharmacopoeia. The The leaves, Jeaves, and and the the white white
shoots shoots in in its its first tirst season, gathered gathered before before the
the flower flower
stalks stalks have have begun begun to to shoot, have have a sharp sharp and and
aromatic aromatic taste. taste. They They can can be be eaten eaten in in salads,
salads, as as a a vegetable, vegetable, or .or in in soup. soup. They are are also
also used used for for flavouring flavouring a a marinade. marinade.

CARBOHYDRATE. CARBOHYDRATE. cARBoNE. CARBONE. HyDRAfi HYDRATE nr OE MENT, MENT,

ALIMENTATION. ALIMENTATION.

See See ALIALI-

CARBON CARBON DIOXIDE. DIOXIDE. cARBoNreuE CARBONIQUE - Gaseous Gase.ous body body
formed formed by by the the union union of of one one atom at.om of of carbon
carbon and and two two atoms atoms of of oxyoxygen. This gas gas is is found found
in in the the atmosphere, atm.osphere, from from which which it it is is gen. This
absorbed absorbed by by plants. plants. These, These, under un der the the
influence influence of of solar solar radiation, radiation, combine combine it it
with with hydrogen, hydrogen, obtaining obtaining complex complex hydrocarbon
hydrocarbon and and fat fat syntheses. syntheses. Soluble Soluble in in cold cold
water, water, it it forms forms carbonic carbonic acid acid which which is is found
found in in many many mineral mineraI waters. waters. When When introduced
introduced under under pressure pressure into into ordinary ordinary water water it
it forms forms artificial artificial soda soda water. water. Carbon Carbon dioxide
dioxide is is released released in in large large quantities quantities during
during alcoholic alcoholic fermentation; fermentation; it it is is this this gas
gas which which forms fonTIS froth froth on on sparkling sparkling wines, wines,
beer, beer, cider, cider, etc. etc. Highly Highly compressed compressed carbon
carbon dioxide diox.ide is is used llsed in in many many indusindustrial trial
processes; processes; in in particular, particular, it il is is used used for for
drawing drawing beer, beer,
'draught 'draught beer'. beer'.
184 184

spiny. Cardoons must always first be cooked in white vegetable vegetable Cardoons
COl/rt-bouillon. They They are are then then simmered simmercd in in the the
required court-bouillon. sauce. sauce. Cardoons, to /0 cook. cook. Discard Discard
the hard hard stems and those those that that Cardoons, are wilted. wilted. Remove
Remove the the tender tender stalks, one by one, and divide divide are them into
into 8-cm. 8-crn. (3-inch) long long slices. slices. Remove Remove all ail the the
stringy stringy them parts parts and and rub rub every every piece piece with with
half half a a lemon, lemon, to to prevent prevent them them from l'rom turning
tuming black. black. Put Put them them in in a a white white vegetable vegetable
courtcour/which is is already already boiling. boiling. Add Add the the heart heart
of of the the carcarbouillon which bouillon doon, carefully carefully trimmed.
trimmed. doon, Boil, stirring stirring so so as as to to prevent prevent the Ihe
cardoon cardoon sticking sticking to to the the Boil, bottom of of the the pan.
pan. Put Put on on the the lid lid and and simmer simmer for for about about 2 2
bottom hours. hours. Cardooos in in bechamel béchamel sauce. sauce. cARDoNs CARDONS
i, À rl LA nfcnaMer BÉCHAMEL Cardoons Drain Drain and and dry dry the the cardoons
cardoons after after they they have have been been cooked cooked as as above.
above. Simmer Simmer in in butter, butter, with with the the lid lid on on the the
pan, pan, for for about about 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add 2 2 dl. dl. ($ (!- pint,
pint, scant sca nt cup) cup) Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Simmer SÎmmer for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Cardoons in in butter. butter,
cARDoNs CARDONS AU AU BEURRE BEURRE - Drain Drain the the Cardoons cooked
cookedcardoons cardoonsand andcook themin in butter butterfor for 20 20minutes,
minutes, with with cook them the lid lid on on the the pan. pan. the Cardool1'i
with with cream cre am I. I. canooNs CARDONS A À re LA cnirrrn CRÈME - Simmer
Cardoorn - Simmer the cooked cooked cardoons cardoons in in butter. butter. Moisten
Moisten with with 2 2 dl. dl. (| (!- pint, pint, the scantcup) cup) Cream
Creamsauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Simmer Si 111 merfor for 5 5minutes.
minutes. scant Cardoom with with cream creant II. Il. clnooNs CARDONS A À rA LA
cniMs CRE;\Π- Simmer Cardoore - Simmer the cooked cooked cardoons cardoons in in
butter. butter. Remove Remove them, them, and and pour pour the 3 dl. dl. 6 (t
pint, pint, l| l! cups) cups) fresh fresh cream cream into into the the pan. pan.
Boil Boil down down 3

Sauerkrautwith "",lhbreast breaSIofveal ofwaland andaaselection seleclionofsausages

ofsam.ages(poa. (Pou.phot. Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas) Sauerkraut
flts*

#ff""

"fi-?
CAREME CARÊME
by half. half. Take offthe off the heat, add 50 g. (2 oz., I ±cup) butter, and
strain through a sieve onto the cardoons. FINEs HERBES Cardoors Cardoons aux fines
herbes I.clnooNs 1. CARDONS Aux AUX FINES Moisten drain. Moisten the cooked
cardoons in in butter. butter, and and drain. Cook the (see SAUCE). with sauce (see
SAUCE). with a a few few tablespoons Fines Fines herbes sauce 10 minutes. Simmer
for l0 AI-rx FINES FINEs HERBES Il.clnnoNs Cardoons aux fines herbes D. CARDONS AUX
Cardoors in buller. butter. Add Add as for Cardoons in - Proceed Proceed in the
same way way as chopped parsley and chervil. Drain the the cooked carFried
cardoons. cARDoNs CARDONS FRIrs FRITS Fried - Drain juice marinate for 30 minutes
in oil, lemon juice doons, dry, and marinate in smoking and chopped parsley. Dip in
light batter and fry in with fine fine salt. season with hot oil. Drain again and
season Trim Cardoons I à la la grecque. À LA grecque. CARDONS rl GRECQUE cnncQus
cARDoNs i Cardoons - Trim juice, and and cook cook in in and slice s!ice the
cardoons, rub with lemon juice, rub with and d for Artichokes à a court-bouillon
made in as for in the same way as a as described in that described in la grecque
(see ARTICHOKE). Finish as recipe. They are hors-d'uuvre. recipe. are served as
hors-d'œuvre. Cardoons A L'ITALŒNNE L'ItALruNwe il l'italienne. cARDoNs À
I'italienne. CARDONS Cardoors à - Proceed fines herbes. herbes. Moisten as for for
Cardoons aux fines in the same way as with Italian !talian sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Cardoons gratines. CARDONS A L'ITALIENNE L'trlLtENNE cARDoNs À i
l'italienne I'italienne gratinés. Cardoorc à GRATINÉS in the as described the
predescribed in cnlrwfs Prepare the the cardoons as - Prepare gratin dish. vious
recipe. recipe. Put the cardoons in a gratin dish. Cover Cover them them in a pour
with and pour with fine fine breadcrumbs and with the the sauce, sauce, sprinkle
sprinkle with over sorne quickly in in the the oven. Brown guickly melted butter.
Brown some melted Cardooll'> ProA LA rn LYONNAISE LvoFrNAIss i la cARDoNs À la
lyonnaise. CARDONS Cardoons à - Proceed l'italienne. Moisten Moisten as for for
Cardoons à tt l'italienne. ceed in the same same way as with Lyonnaise Lyonnaise
sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cardoons with I. CARDONS r,c, MOELLE MoeLI-E
Drain A LA cennoNs À marrow 1. with marrow - Drain (q.v.). the in court-bouillon
(g.v.). after cooking cooking them them in cardoons after the cardoons When
cardoons on on top, of the hearts of lay sliced the cardoons When serving, serving,
lay sliced hearts alternating and in salt salt water and alternating with s!ices
slices of marrow poached in weB well drained. Cover sauce Maruow sauce a few few
tablespoons with a tablespoons Marrow dish with Cover the the dish (see SAUCE).
chopped parsley. SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped Cardoons with marrow II. CARDONS
uoBrr-e -- Arrange rl MOELLE cnnnors À i LA the pyramid on with a dish, and cover
cover them them with a pyramid on a dish, and in a the cardoons in sliced (see
SAUCE) SAUCE) Marcow sauce sauce (see Po:ur Marrow cardoon hearts. hearts. Pour
sliced cardoon over them parsley. chopped parsley. and sprinkle with chopped them
and Arrange round the edge cro0tes hollowed-out croûtes edge of of the dish, dish,
hollowed-out of poached diced marrow. diced marrow. and filled with poached of
bread, bread, buttered buttered and The hollowed-out pastry puff pastry by puff can
be cro0tes can be replaced by hollowed-out croûtes bouchées. bouchies. The chopped
and chopped have chopped shallot and marrow can chopped shallot The marrow can have
parsley veal sauce parsley added, sauce or or added, combined with concentrated
concentrated veal combined witb with glaze. meat glaze. with dissolved dissolved
meat Cardoons I-e MILANAISE ruu.ntllsB -- Cook Cook cARDoNS À A LA i la la
milanaise. milanaise. CARDONS Cardoons à cardoons (q.v.), drain and dry dry them.
them. drain and cardoons in in court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.), Arrange layer
in layers, layers, sprinkling each layer a fireproof fireproof dish dish in
sprinkling each Arrange on on a with and grated Parmesan. melted butter with melted
butter and with grated Sprinkle with Parmesan. Sprinkle brown oven, sprinkle
sprinkle from the When removed removed from the oven, in the brown in the oven.
oven. When with with brown brown butter. butter. CardooDS cooked MoRNAy -- Arrange
Arrange cooked Mornay. CARDONS cARDoNs MORNAY Cardoons Mornay. and gratin dish.
Cover with with in a a buttered dish. Cover and drained cardoons in buttered gratin
drained cardoons Mornay grated Par(see SAUCE) Parand sprinkle with grated Mornay
sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and sprinkle with mesan. and brown in aa very very little
melted melted butter mesan. Pour Pour a a !ittle butter over over and brown in hot
hot oven. oven. Cardoons (i blanc). AU PARPARblanc). CARDONS cARDoNS AU Parmesan (à
with Parmesan Cardoors with MESAN (A BLANC) way as as for for Cardons Cardons
nr.aNc) -- Proceed in the MEsAN (À Proceed in the same same way Mornay. Mornay.
CardooDS (l brun). PARMESAN AU PARMESAN Parmesan (à brun). CARDONS cARDoNs AU with
Parmesan Cardoons with (À (A BRUN) in aa and drained, drained, in nnuN) -- Arrange
cardoons, cooked cooked and Arrange cardoons, buttered (see gratin dish; sauce (see
with a Demi-glace sauce cover with a Demi-glace dish; cover buttered gratin SAUCE).
in the with Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown in the oven. oven. SAUCE).
Sprinkle Sprinkle with Raw pi6montaise or Piemontese Raw cardoons cardoons à A la
la piémontaise or CardieHa Cardielle Piemontese (Italian pIfMoNTAIsE -- Clean A LA
Clean cookery). CARDONS cAREoNs CRUS cRUs À LA PIÉMONTAISE fltalian cookery). white
fibres and and the skin on on thé the white cardoons. cardoons. Remove Remove the
the fibres the thin thin skin
185 l8s
Preserved fruits (Quintard. Pho t. N icolas)

place the fresh water. water. in fresh and place the cardoons cardoons in inside of
of the stalks, and the stalks, inside (2 inches) inches) long. long. about 4 4 to 5
cm. cm. (2 to 5 Divide the stalks into pieces about arranged in an hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre dish, dish, as they are, arranged in an Serve them them as they are,
Serve with the the following sauce: sauce: with pan with (7 oz., in a g. (7 a pan
with 2 2 dl. dl. (| cup) butter Put 200 200 g. scant cup) butter in oz., scant Put
garlic and pint, scant and cloves of of garlic oil, 4 4 shredded shredded c10ves
cup) olive olive oil, scant cup) pint, allow do not not allow fillets. Cook Cook
slowly; slowly; do diced anchovy fillets. 6 desalted, diced garlic to to brown. the
garlic peeled and and truffies, peeled white truffies, Add to sauce one one or or
two two white to this this sauce Add Mix, and and serve hot. into thin serve hot.
thin strips. sliced into strips. Mix, sliced pun6n DE cardoons as as pur6e. PURÉE
DE CARDONS Prepare cardoons cARDoNs -- Prepare Cardoon purée. Cardoon heat the a
fine fine sieve, sieve, heat the for Cardoons Cardoons in Pass through through a
butter. Pass in bUller. for pur6e and and add add butter. purée potato purée puree
can can be be added added to to its volume volume of of potato One-third of of its
One-third pur6e. A Bichamel A few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Béchamel
the cardoon cardoon purée. the (see SAUCE) added. sauce (see can also also be be
added. SAUCE) can sauce cardoons in in a a DE CARDONS cARDoNs -- Cook Cook cardoons
salad. sALADE DE Cardoon sai ad. SALADE (q.v.), drain and dry. dry. drain and
court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.), pepper, and and pepper, and sprinkle vinegar,
salt sprinkle salt and Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, Season parsley and and
chervil. chervil. with chopped chopped parsley with cARDoNs AVEC AVEC SAUCES sAUcEs
with various various sauces. sauces. CARDONS Cardoons Cardoors with with any any of
and serve of and drain DIvERsEs -- Cook drain cardoons, cardoons, and serve with
DIVERSES Cook and HunHollandaise, HunCream, Hollandaise, following sauces: Butter,
Cream, the the following sauces: BUller, (see SAUCE). garian or or Mousseline
Mousseline (see SAUCE).

ct

( I 78,S- I 833) Antonin Antonin Carême Car€me (1784--1833)

CARÊME known as as AntonIn, Antonin, Car6me, known Marie-Antoine Carême, CARENIE -

Marie-Antoine was 12 1784, and and died there on on 12 died there June 1784, was
born born in in Paris Paris on on 8 8 June January 1833. January 1833. His much
poor working had so so much man who who had His father father was was a a poor
working man difficulty found it it simplest large family he found feeding his his
large family that that he simplest in feeding difficulty in to farewell meal meal
in in aa tavern little Antoine after aa farewell tavern abandon little Antoine
after to abandon at piece of gate, leaving provided with advice: with this
ofadvice: leaving him him provided this piece at the the city city gate, 'Go,
callings. In this excellent callings. world there are excellent 'Go, little little
one. one. In this world there are Leave lot and and we we must must die die of of
languish; misery misery is is our our lot Leave us us to to languish; misery. it
only wit to fine fortunes, fortunes, it only needs needs wit to misery. This This
is is the of fine the time time of make perhaps you have. little one, and perhaps
Go, little one, and make one, and wit wit you have. Go, one, and this its fine
bouse house will will open open its or tomorrow some fine this evening evening or
tomorrow sorne doors you.' given you.' you. Go God has has given Go with with what
what Gùd doors to to you. The knockedon door could have have knocked on the thedoor
abandoned, could The boy, boy, thus thus abandoned, of led him humble Destiny led
him to to aahumble or aa locksmith. carpenter or locksmith. Destiny of aa carpenter
cookshop, gave him first lesson lesson in in him his his first of which which gave
owner of the owner cookshop, the cooking. des has been called the the Cuisinier
Cuisinier des who has been called The man man who cooking. The rois (the Cook King
kings and and the theKing of kings Roi des cuisiniers (the Cook of rois et et le
leRoi des cuisiniers of A meanest ofcookshops. cookshops. A in the the meanestof
made his his début d6but in of cooks) cooks) made precarious ucky chance, was
precarious beginning! chance, Carême Car€mewas But, by by aa 1lucky beginning !
But, set gifts. magnificent gifts. he hàd had magnificent for which which he in aa
craft craft for work in set to to work The from such modest suchaamodest herose
rose -- starting starting from with which which he The speed speed with beginning
prodigy. beginning -- showed showed him to be be something something of
ofaaprodigy. him to He kitchen help helil when He began in aa restaurant restaurant
as asaa kitchen when work in began work he years old. great desire desire to his
wise wise His great work, his he was was fifteen fifteen years old. His to work,
intuition and resources resources of of his his art,and art, and his his intuition
for for the secrets and the secrets serene person of revealed him as aa person of
exceptional exceptional serehe authority authority revealed him as

-
CAREME
quality. Very soon he moved to the celebrated pdtissier quality. Bailly in rue
Vivienne, who had as a client M. de Talleyrand, Bailly made gastronomy serve who
made an an extremely c1ever clever diplomat who serve political ambitions.
ambitions. On On leaving Congress of his leaving for for the his political the
Congress advantages Vienna, where he was able to obtain important advantages XVIII,
the gourfor France, Talleyrand Talleyrand declared to to Louis XVIII, well able to
understand the words: 'Sire, met king, who was weil 1 I have more need of of
casseroles than of of written instructions.' has left us an account of the lime he
spent with us an time he Carême Car0me has 'At seventeen,' he writes, '1 'I was
with M. Bailly: 'At the famous Bailly: a lively as his first tourtier. This good
mas master Bailly as ter showed a intere:;t in me. He allowed me to leave work in
order to draw interest in the print room. When 1 I had shown him that 1 a parI had
a for his his art art he he confided to me the vocation for to me the task ticular
vocation task of (Napoleon's) monties for Consul's (Napoleon's) creating for the
creating piices montées the Consul's flourished in ill ustrious Avice in the ta
ble. At that time, the illustrious table. time, the Avice tlourished his work
served as pâtisserie; his realm of of phtisserie; as my instruction. The I did ail
knowledge of his procedures gave me courage and 1 all I could follow him, but not
to imitate him.' could to to follow 1 In brief, Carême Car6me created created
extraordinary decorative pieces ln pieces young pastrygeneral admiration. This
young whichprovoked which provoked generaJ set pieces on the engravings engravings
in great French cook based his set in his collections which he studied even in his
tenderest tenderest years. He with architecture associated confectionery
confectionery with wrote the associated architecture and and wrote 'The fine quoted
by following sentence, quoted by Anatole France: 'The Anatole France: following
painting, sculpture, poetry, in number, to wit: painting, arts are five five in to
wit: music, architecture whose main branch is is confectionery.' confectionery.' -
whose who kept de Lavalette who M. de Car6me entered entered the service of M. a a
famous table and entertained the most distinguished men politics, Here Carême in
poli sciences. Here Car0me army, the arts and and sciences. in tics, the the army,
the arts delicacy, order worked, as he puts it, to further the union of delicacy,
years with He next with Prince and next stayed twelve and economy! He twelve years
Talleyrand whose table, was furnished furnished with he declared, was Talleyrand
table, he wisdom. Later, he he became chief cook to grandeur and wisdom. to the in
England. for two Here he Prince Regent Regent in England. Here he stayed stayed for
two years. Prince he explained the Every Every morning he the properties of each
indi'Car0me,' said his royal master dish to to the said his vidual dish royal mas
ter the Prince. 'Carême, me with with a a surfeit food. 1 surfeit of food. will
kill me have a one one day, day, 'you will I have you put before me. for everything
you fancy me. The temptation is fancy for great.' 'YOUf 'Your Highness,'' replied
Carême really too really Car6me (who too great.' in the preamble to his Cuisinier
relates relates this to his this conversation in great concem parisien),'my concern
is to stimulate your appetite by parisien), variety of my dishes. It is no concern
of mine to curb it.' the variety returned to he returned The English depressed him,
him, and and he The fogs depressed English fogs later King George IV, The Prince
Prince Regent, Regent, later IV, asked France. The munificent terms which which
would him to him to return, and and offered munificent prosperity, but present and
and future future prosperity, Car6me but Carême assure assure his his present
refused. Alexander, We find him at Saint Petersburg with the Czar Alexander, at the
Court of Vienna, at the British Embassy in Paris, at in the AixJa-Chapelle, in the
households of the the Congress Congress of Aix-la-Chapelle, and finally Bagration
and Lord Stewart, Stewart, and finally with Princess Princess Bagration and Lord
for seven seven years. Rothschild, where he he remained for Baron Baron de de
Rothschild, with this the Rothschild finance, the Rothschild While While he he was
was with this prince of finance, in Europe. M. de de Rothschild, Rothschild, table
was considered the best in just bought bought the Ferridres estate, estate, offered
offered him him the having just having the Ferrières chiteau, and opportunity
opportunity of directing directing the the kitchens of the the château, retire
there. Car6me could, if if he he wished, wished, retire added that hp h~ could,
added that there. Carême by the was exhausted the unexhausted by declined declined
this this offer. offer. His strength was remitting labours of thirty years.
prayer,' he added, 'is not to end my days in a château ch0teau 'My prayer,' in
Paris, and to a comprein humble lodgings in but to publish a but in present my
profession at state of my at the present hensive survey of the state He fell
gravely ill and was forced to to take to his bed. time.' He anxiety xi et y was his
fear of not being able to complete His great an of his art. books which he regarded
as essential to the future of 12 January 1833, fi ft y years, on 12 He died, still
under under the age of of fifty bumt tlame of burnt out, out, according to to
Laurent Tailhade, by the flame
186
of his ovens. His liis last moments of of life his genius and the fuel of were
spent notes to spent in dictating notes to his daughter. were is a pro bit y and
nobility. nobility. Money Money Carême's life is a model of probity Car6me's life
was important. His His art art alone was meant to him. him. His meant nothing to
very conception of culinary art is in tune with the grandeur was always Carême's It
was Ideal to to present Car6me's ideal of his character. It which he he enriched
the culinary marvels with which sumptuously sumptuously the Nothing could more
meticulous of kings. Nothing could be be more the the tables tables of than the
drawings he made for set pieces, aspics, galantines, baskets of fruit, etc., etc.,
or even simple borders. Nowadays, longer approve approve of we no of this no longer
Nowadays, we this ostentatious manner of setting setting out cooked dishes. have
banished manner We have out cooked dishes. We banished as much for the sake of
hygiene as display from our tables, tables, as for reasons of expediency. But it
must be remembered that worked for the great ones Carême Car6me worked enes of the
earth and wanted art to as a a foil foil to . Neverhis art to 'serve to European
diplomacy'. 'serve as considered that cooking must be decorative, theless, while he
considered hygienic. He himself he was equally emphatic that it must be
IIVI~'\"'''\''. was extremely was extremely sober and and considered that 'good
cooking life of old societies'. societies'. should strengthen the life

91
ror

6e

c,lryttbrLo

t'vtry{rgrc ri C'^ €Di-).

works of one of of Carême's Car&ne's works Title page of

He died poor, leaving only his his works, listed below: Maître d'hôtel français.
Comparisons of ancient and Maitre d'h6tel frangais. point of view view of the
modern cookery considered from modem from the point plan and meptrs according to
plan to the four the arrangement of menus and the

I* Le
CARP
Petersburg, London seasons, in St Petersburg, London and and Vienna, Vienna, 2
seasons, in Paris, Paris, St volumes. Le and practical Le Pdtissier Pâtissier royal
parisien. parisien. Elernentary practical Elementary and treatiseo 4l plates
treatise, 2 2 volumes. volumes. Later edition, ornamented with 41 2 volumes.
volumes. by the author, 2 Le Cuisinier Cuisinier parisien.l parisien. 1 volume.
L'Art de de la cuisine au siicle.5 au dix-neuvidme dix-neuvièmesièc/e. 5 volumes.
Le Phtissier 128 plates by Pâtissier pittoresque. Ornamented with with 128 author.
the author. works. He He preThere is is unusual erudition in Carême's Car6me's
works. faced a treatise on formulation of modern menus menus with a faced his
formulation great deal ancient required a ancient cookery which required a great
deal of research, cookery which and which bears for his probears witness witness to
a a devoted passion passion for fession. Le Pdtissier Pâtissier royal parisien
parisien is is filled filled with the sentiment Le with the which which earned
earned his his immortality: irnmortality: indignation. Carême Car€me was unable to
view without without disgust that men totally ignorant of cookery books. the art of
cooking published cookery The plan of this book is extremely methodica!.
methodical. The subjects with which he deals are provisions provisions (with
observations their freshness, quality and season), details on their details and
organisathe larder, larder, major major and minor sauces, consommés, tion of the
and minor sauces, consomm6s, tion hors-d' œuvre, frying, frying, sweets, sweets,
the the co Id buffet; buffet; in in short, hors-d'euvre, cold all short, aU
relating to the direction of the kitchen. kitchen. Carême the details relating
Car€me vocabulary where he establishes the added to this treatise a vocabulary the
names names of dishes which had had been travestied spelling of the by so many.
Carême should be he regarded regarded as as the founder founder of 'la grande
grande Car0me classic French French cookery. cookery. His His theoretical work,
work, his cuisine', classic practical work pastry-maker, work as as an an inventor
of sauces, as pastry-maker, sauces, as and author author of works works devoted to
to cooking, designer and cooking, place a much higher higher level than than those
who preceded him. him at a
CHOU cen,q,iss CARAÏBE - Root of Arum CARIBBEAN CABBAGE. crrou CARIBBEAN
esculentum. Used in Asia and Africa and also cultivated in esculentwn. of France.
France. Prepared Prepared as as swedes swedes (q.v.). (q. v.). the south of

yolks. This in butter and and egg egg yolks. oranges, is also also found found in
oranges, etc. etc. It is r6le in substance plays an important rôle in the growth of
animais, animals, into vitamins vitamins in in the is transformed and and is
transformed into the animal animal organism. importance of fresh vegetables Its
properties emphasise the the importance in the diet. in
CARP. fish. It It probably originated CARP. CARPE cARpE originated in in -
Freshwater fish. in 1614 1614 and China, China, and and was was imported into into
England England in and into Holland and about 1660. 1660. In In 1876 it was taken
and Scandinavia about put in to in fish to U.S.A., put in Washington, fish ponds in
Washington, D.C., and and in 1879 distributed 1879 tories. It distributed to to
twenty-five twenty-five states and and terri territories. It is abundant abundant
in in the West, and and sold sold in in the Middle West, the Middle the principal
eastern cities of U.S.A. The carp has a ail mouth a sm mouth with four fleshy
fleshy appendages small called barbules, barbules, but has no teeth. The river carp
has brownish brownish golden-yellow scales scales on the back, flanks,
greenishback, golden-yellow scales on its flanks, white scales scales on the
stomach. The carp which inhabits inhabits lakes and ponds often has a muddy smell,
and is darker in colour. colour. grow to Carp Carp can can grow The best enornous
size. to an an enormous size. The best season season for eating them them is is
between and the end of March. the end between November and

Mirror Mirror carp

CARINA. snfcHrr BRÉCHET - Breast bone of poultry and feathered feathered game.
gently bent is supple when gently bent to the right game. If this bone is and to
the left the bird is young and its flesh will be tender. tender.
CARLINE - Plant which grows in the cARLTNE The root of the mountains, particularly
particularly in the the C6venrtes. Cévennes. The mountains, great carline thistle
is sometimes sometimes used as a drug. The young taste, while the eaten in salads,
have a nutty taste, flower-heads, eaten fenne!. roots have a flavour similar to
that of fennel.

CARLINE THISTLE.

CARMINATIVE. clnuINArIF CARMINATIF - Medicament Medicament which which

prepreCARMINATfVE. or provokes provokes the the expulsion, of gases vents the the
formation, or vents contained in the intestines. The kind kind of carminative
carminative which contained the old pharmacopoeia pharmacopoeia consisted consisted
of grains grains of featured in the coriander, fennel and caraway in equal parts.
aniseed, coriander,
CARMIN - Substance from cochineal, CARMINE. cARMIN Substance derived from a vivid
scarlet red red colour, non-toxic, used used to to colour a of a

of food substances. variety of CARNATION. orrrrrr OEILLET - The The petals petais
of of the carnation carnation flower CARNATION. ratafia. are used to make a syrup
and a ratafia. CARN IV AL. cARNAvAL CARNAVAL - The period between between Epiphany
Epiphany CARNIVAL. and Ash Ash Wednesday, given given up up to to all ail kinds
kinds of rejoicing rejoicing and especially in the pleasures of the table.
CAROLINE CAROLINA. cnnor-mn rice. (See (See RICE.) RICE.) -

Commercial name for a type type of Commercial

CAROLINE - Name Name given given in in pastry-making pastry-making to to small

CAROLIhIE éclairs served as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. 6clairs CAROTENE. clnoriun
CAROTÈNE - Yellow colouring matter, wideCAROTENE. spread in the vegetable kingdom.
Besides carrots, it is also found in in spinach, spinach, lettuce, lettuce, peas,
peas, pumpkins, pumpkins, cabbages, found 187 r87

which the chief are carp, of which There are are several species species of carp,
the carp, leather Kollar carp, Bohemian and Bohemian the mirror carp, leather carp,
carp, Kol/ar carp, and carp. The mirror carp called the queen of carp was called of
carp in the old flesh. It is days on account of the great delicacy of its flesh. is
more grows more hardy than than the common carp, more rapidly, rapidly, and carp,
grows hardy the common attains a larger larger size. The Kollar Kollar carp carp is
is seldom seldom found found in attains a size. The abundant in in Belgium, in
Germany France, but is Belgium, in Germany and is abundant and in Hungary. Hungary.
AU All these species species of carp are prepared in the same way as common carp.
common are bred in in Sologne and in In France, carp are in the Dombes, from where
they they are are transported transported alive from where alive to to Germany
Germany in aquarium trucks trucks for for the the manufacture Hamburg carp
manufacture of of Hamburg pâté. They are also also bred on the shores of the Dead
Sea. pdti. Carp i à loalsacienne. J'a)sacienne. CARPE L'ALSACIENNE Carp cARpE À A
t'us.lcrENNE a carp - Fill a (see FORCEof medium medium size fish cream cream
stuffing stuffing (see size with with a a fish MEA T, Fish forcemeat). Poach Poach
in a MEAT, Fish forcemeat). a little white wine. Garnish with Sauerkraut garnish
(see (see GARNISHES), nish with GARNISHES), and Sauerkrant garnish boiled-down
liquor in which boiled potatoes. Serve Serve with the boiled-down Kneaded butter
(see BUTTER) was cooked, thickened with Kneadedbutter it was BUTTER) and with a a
little fresh butter added. Carp cooked in beer (German cookery). CARPE LA BIÈRE
cARpE À A r.l sdnr - Season of moderate size which can be stuffed or not, Season a
carp of fish kettle on a foundation of tas te. Put it in a fish according to taste.
(5 oz., 150 g. (5 Lf, cups) chopped onion lightly lightly fried in butter, oz., li
(1 oz.) gingerbread cut into small together with 25 g. (1 together small squares,
and 2 stalks finely finely sliced celery. celery. Add a bouquet gami. garni. fish;
sufficient to almost coyer Pour light beer over the fish; cover it. Poach in a slow
oyen. oven. When cooked, put the fish on a a long and garnish with the the roes,
roes, which which have have been platter and been sliced and poached. Boil down one
third the the liquor in which and down by one which
CARP

Leather Leather carp

Bohemian carp

sieve, add add a a little fresh butter, and the carp was cooked, sieve, little
fresh the carp was serve with the fish. Carp au bleu. bleu. cmpr CARPE AU AU BLEU
used for carp are are used Carp au - Small carp as for BIue this preparation.
preparation. Proceed Proceed in the same way as Blue trout this. (see TROUT).
(see.TROUT).

Carp Chambord Chambord Carp

cHAMBoRD Stutr a a carp with with a Carp Chambord. Chambord. CARPE clnpn CHAMBORD a
- Stuff FORCEMEAT, Fish Jorcedelicate MEAT, Fish fish cream cream stuffing (see
FORCE delicate fish forceremove a a strip of skin from both both meats). Sew Sew it
up. up. Neatly remove the skin skin towards towards the the stomach stomach unsides
fish leaving the sides of the the fish in the Lard the the skinned portion
stuffing. Lard touched to to hold hold in the stuffing. with strips strips offat of
fat bacon, or stud it with truffie slices. (Alternatively this part can be spread
with a a thin layer of fish stuffing in crescent shapes.) cut in garnished with
with slices slices of truffie cut a base Put the drainer of the the fish fish
kettle on a base of on the the carp on the drainer mushroom peelherbs which, with
with sorne sonre mushroom and vegetables vegetables which, herbs and garni in
butter. a bouquet bouquet garni fried in ings, butter. Add a ings, have have been
been lightly fried (q.v.). (see STOCK) wine (see Pour red wine STOCK) to with red
some Fish Flslz stock stock with Pour on on sorne reach two-thirds a moderate of
the fish. Braise in a two-thirds up the sides of (160'C., 325°F., oyen Gas Mark
Mark 3). 3). 325"F., Gas oven (I60°C., glaze it, a Chambord Drain it, and and
surround surround with with a Chambord fish, glaze Drain the the fish, (see
GARNISHES) of garnish (see garnish the different parts of GARNISHES) arranging the
groups. Put the Put a a little little Genevoise Genevoise sauce in separate groups.
the garnish in (see SAUCE) in (see the dish, dish, using using the the liquor in
the the bottom bottom of of the separately. from the braised carp. the sauce ofthe
sauce separately. carp. Serve Serve the rest of preparation Cold FRoIDE -- Ali All
methods of of preparation cARpE FROIDE Cold carp. carp. CARPE (see SALMON) given
Salmon trout trout given for salmon (see SALMOI9 and and Salmon for Cold Cold
salmon (see TROUT) TROUT) apply apply to to carp. Carp cARpE AU AU COURT-BOUILLON
couRT-BouILLoN -court-bouillorl CARPE Carp au au court-bouillon. (prepared with
Poach red or in a a court-bouillon with red or Poach the the fish fish in court-
bouillon (prepared white and seasoning. seasoning. aromatic vegetables and white
wine) containing containing aromatic
188 188

parsley. Serve garnish with fresh parsley. Drain the carp, and and garnish with
fresh the carp, Drain with a a sauce sauce used used with with poached fish. with
melted butter or with a Lift the from a fillets from Fillets of carp. FILETS FILETs
DE DE CARPE cARpE the fillets Fillets - Lift Trim and and poach in a and season
season them, and medium-sized carp. Trim cover Drain the the fillets, fillets. and
and coyer stock. Drain little concentrated fish fish stock. httle Fines herbes,
herbes, sauces: Cream, Crgarn, Fines following sauces: with one one of of the the
following with wine, or Normande, White White wine, or any any Mariniire, Normande,
Hollandaise, Marinière, Hollandaise, (see SAUCE). fish (see sauce suitable for for
poached SAUCE). sauce poached fish by any any of the the garcarp can can be be
accompanied accompanied by Fillets of carp poached fish, to poached fish, and and
particularly those appropriate to nishes appropriate (see SOLE). given for sole,
sole, or fillets fillets of sole (see given FRrrE Deep-fry smalJ small carp in in
hot hot oil. cARpE FRITE Fried carp. CARPE - Deep-fry with fine fine salt salt and
Drain, and with a a clotho cloth. Season wipe with and wipe Season with Drain,
fried parsley and and quarters of lemon. with fried garnish with A LA I-.1udrnr
maihe d'hôtel. d'h0tel. CARPE cARpE GRILLÉE cRnrfE À I la maître Grilled carp à
MAÏTRE in this way. way. Follow the are prepared in n'uOtEL -- Small carp are
D'HÔTEL (see BASS). instructions for for Grilled Grilled bass bass (see
instructions la juive. CARPE A LA rA. JUIVE a medium-sized Carp à t la cARpE À
ruryE -- Cut a Carp with 1 I chopped chopped onion onion and and 3 cook with carp
into into slices, slices, and and cook carp (| pint, in 2 dl. (t which have have
been cooked in 2 dl. been cooked chopped shallots which (ll oz., g. (1t browning.
Sprinkle with 35 g. scant cup) oil without browning. seant cover the fish with with
white wine 6 tablespoons) flour. Almost Coyer the fish 6 (or water). water). Season
with salt salt and and a a touch touch of and fish fish stock stock (or Season with
and garni garlic cloyes Add 2 2 cru crushed cloves and and a a bouquet bouquet
garni cayenne. Add cayenne. shed garlic (q.v.). Sprinkle with a a few few
tablespoons tablespoons oil. oil. Bring Bring to to the Sprinkle with (q.v.). 20
minutes. lid on on for 20 and simmer slowly with the lid boil, and dish, reforming
reforming Drain the the carp carp slices· slices and and set set them them on on a
a dish, Drain the shape of the the carp. the liquor by two-thirds, rem remove from
the Boil down down the the liquor by two-thirds, Boil ove from (+ pint, scant cup)
in 2 2 dl. dl. (t cup) oil. oil. Pour over over the heat, and and beat in heat,
with chopped chopped parsley. cool. Sprinkle and leave to to cool. Sprinkle with
carp and A LA A L'ORIENt'onrcNI'orientale. CARPE r.l JUIVE rutw À I la juive à i
l'orientale. cARpE À Carpe à juive but after same way in the same way as as Carp
Carp à d la juive TALE Prepared in TALE - Prepared incorporated has been boiled
down down and the oil oil incorporated and the the sauce sauce has been boiled the
(l oz., peeled, blanched g. (1 and25 cup) peeled, blanched add a pinch ofsaffron of
saffron and oz.,l add 25 g. t cup) and chopped chopped almonds. and parsley. CARPE
IERSIL la juive with A LA ra JUIVE rulve AU AU PERSIL i la with parsley. cARpE À
Carp à d lajuive same way as as Carpe à la juive with with the addiaddi- Prepared
in the same parsley to cooking liquor. liquor. fresh parsley to the the cooking
tion of of several several sprigs sprip fresh tion parsley when Add more chopped
chopped parsley when ready ready to to serve. serve. Add juive with A LA rl JUIVE
AUX la juive with raisins. raisire. CARPE cARpE À ruNs AUX Carpe Carpe à i la Carp
à d lajuive. la juive. Add Add to RArsrNs same way as as Carp RAISINS - Prepared in
the same incorliquor, in in which which the the oil oil has has been been incorthe
boiled-down boiled-down liquor, the (l oz., powdered sugar, porated, 15 g. (t 2
tablespoons) 15 g. oz., 2 tablespoons) powdered sugar, 2 2 porated, (2 oz., g. (2
raisins, cup) seeded seeded raisins, tablespoons wine wine vinegar, 50 50 g. oz., t
tablespoons * cup) (mixed) which (2 oz., g. (2 which cup) currants currants and
sultanas (mixed) and 50 50 g. oz., t and sultanas and * cup) in lukewarm drained.
allowed to to swell swell in lukewarm water and and drained. have been been allowed
EN MATELOTE Prepared wi with MATELoTe -- Prepared Carp th Carp en en matelote.
matelote. CARPE cARpE EN Eel en into slices in the the same way as as Eel en
matelote matelote the the carp carp cut cut into slices in same way (see EEL). (see
EEL).
CARROTS
Carp Carp à la la polonaise. polonaise. cARpE CARPE A À LA por,oNArsE POLONAISE -
Stuff a medium-sized carp with fish stuffing and place on a foundation of 50 g. g.
(2 oz., I t cup) chopped onion and 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., t cup) chopped shallot
shallot in a a fish kettle or large pan. Add a * bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.)
(q.v.) and and season. season. Almost Almost cover coyer the the carp with liquor
consisting consisting of half red wine and half fish fish stock. Add 100 g. (4 oz.)
gingerbread cut into large squares. squares. Braise slowly on top of the stove or
in the oven. oyen. Drain the carp and cover coyer with the following sauce: Prepare
a g. (2 a pale pale caramel syrup syrup with with 50 50g. (2 oz., oz., t cup) cup)
sugar and and I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, scant * t cup) vinegar. Add the sieved
liquor in which the fish was cooked, mixed with 100 g. (4 oz, oz., * t cup) butter
and and 50 50 g. g. (2 oz., * t cup) flaked ftaked almonds almonds which have have
been lightly Iightly grilled. grilled. Carp quenelles. eUENELLES QUENELLES DE cARpE
CARPE - Prepare with carp meat in the same way as Pike quenelles (see PIKE). PIKE).
Poach the the carp quenelles quenelles and and serve on on croustades feuilleties
(see CROUSTADE) CROUSTADE) or on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter.
butter. letées (see They are accompanied by by various various garnishes garnishes
and are are covered covered with with a sauce sauce suitable suitable for for the
garnish garnish used. used. (See (See QUENELLE, QUENELLE, Fish quenelles.)
quenelles.) also used as as part of the the garnish for Carp quenelles are also
large large braised braised fish, and fish fish pies. carp. cARpE CARPE n6rn RÔTIE
- Prepare in the the same way as as Roast carp. Roast Roast pike pike (see PIKE).
PIKE). Carps' roes. LAITANC.ES LAITANCES DE DE cARpE CARPE - Often Often used as
part of Carps'roes. a garnish for large large braised fish. They can also be served
as a a hot hot hors-d'oeuvre hors-d'oeuvre or or as as an an entrie. entrée. Carps'
roes, roes, and and those those of other other fish, fish, should should first
first be Carps' poached poached in a little littre court-bouillon, court-bouillon,
or cooked in butter with lemon lemon juice juice addedo added, in in a covered pan.
Prepare Prepare according according to the the instructions instructions given
given under the the different recipes recipes for soft roes (q.v.). (q.v.). roes
l'ancienne. cARpE CARPE FARcTE FARCIE A À r'lNcrnNns L'ANCIENNE Stuffed carp à
I'ancienne. Shfied large, soft-roed soft-roed carp. carp. Remove Remove the flesh
ftesh and add it Scale a large, a small eel. eel, and 8 desalted desalted
anchovies. Make a to that of a Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT)
FORCEMEAT) but but without without Quenelle sauce. Keep Keep it it rather rather
firm. firm. Be Be careful, when adding any sauce. removing removing the the carp's
flesh, ftesh, to leave leave the the backbone backbone intact, intact, complete
with head head and tail. tail. complete Blanch Blanch the the roes, roes, cut them
them into into pieces, pieces, and saut6 sauté them in butter butter with a a
little little lemon lemon juice. juice. Add Add truffies truffies and and
mushmushrooms rooms and and a few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Allemande
Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Thickly Thickly butter butter a tin tin tray
tray of the the same length length as as the the carp. Lay forcemeat forcemeat on
on this, this, about 5 5 cm. (2 (2 inches) inches) deep, deep, in the the Lay shape
of of the the carp, carp, and and set the the backbone, backbone, to to which which
the the head head shape and tail tail are are still still adhering, adhering, in in
place. place. Cover Coyer the the bone bone with with a and little little more more
forcemeat forcemeat and and add add the ragottt ragoût of of truffies, truffies,
mushrooms and carp's carp's roes. roes. On On top of this this lay lay about 2* 2t
cm. (l (1 roorns inch) forcemeat, forcemeat, keeping keeping carefully carefully to
to the the shape of of the the carp. carp. inch) Smooth the the surface surface
with with the the blade blade of of a a knife knife dipped dipped in in hst hot
Smooth water. Butter Butter a a large large baking baking sheet sheet and and
sprinkle sprinkle breadbreadwater. crumbs on on the the butter. butter. Put Put the
the tin tin tray trayon which the the carp carp crumbs on which has been been
prepared prepared over over heat heat for for a few few minutes minutes so that
that the the has butter melts. melts. It is is then then possible possible to to
slide slide the the fish fishonto the butter onto the baking sheet. sheet. baking
Coyer the the fish fish with with bqaten beaten egg, egg, then then with with fine
fine dry breadbreadCover crumbs, pressing pressing them them on on with with a a
knife. knife. Pour Pour on melted melted crumbs, butter. With With the the tip tip
of of a a small smaU spoon spoon press press in in a a pattern pattern of butter.
scales, beginning beginning at at the the head. head. scales, Cook the the carp
carp in in the the oven oyen for for 45 45 minutes, minutes, basting basting Cook
frequently with with clarified c1arified butter butter so so that that it it
acquires acquires a a golden golden frequently colour. Remove Remove from from the
the baking baking sheet sheet with a a long long fish fish colour. slice, and and
slide slide it it onto onto the the serving serving dish, dish, together together
with with a a little Iittle slice, Sauce financiire financière (see (see SAUCE), SA
U CE), based based on on fish fish essence. essence. Serve Serve Sauce with more
more sauce. sauce. (L'art (L'art de de la la cuisine cuisine frangaise française de
de CarAme, Carême, with by Plumerey.) Plumerey.) by

or CARPEAU CARPILLON or Very small carp. carp. Also Also a a - Very species of
small species small mullet which which does does not not spawn. spawn. This This
fish,

which is Euro, which is found in in the and other other EuroRh6ne, the the Rhône,
the Saône Sadne and pean pean rivers, is is treated in in the same way way as as
carp. Its Its ftesh flesh is tender and delicate. delicate.
CARPION - Variety of trout, found in in alpine CARPION alpine trout, principally
found streams. Ali methods methods of preparation indicated indicated for for river
streams. All of preparation TROUT). trout can be applied to it (see TROUT). CARRÉ
DE BONNEVILLE _ - See CARRE DE BONhIEVILLE SEC CHEESE: CHEESE: CARRIER PIGEON.
pigeon which CARRIER PIGEON. BISET BIsEr - Wild Wild pigeon which is is also rock
pigeon pigeon. It is smaller than the ring dove (or wood called rock pigeon). Its
plumage is slate-grey. slate-grey. be prepared in any way suitable for the domestic
It can be pigeon (see PIGEON). PIGEON) ... a marsh bird similar In France, this
name is also given to a duck, which is cooked in the sa me way as to the wild duck,
same as wild (see DUCK, DUCK, Wild duck). duck (see
CAROTTES - Root Root vegetables which which are CARROTS. cARorrEs are used many
dishes, dishes, either as as an base or in many aromatic base an aromatic or alone
as as a

garnish. carrot contains contains a a notable notable amount The carrot imount of
sugar, sugar, which adds to its nutritive properties. The following recipes recipes
are adds The following are used, they should intended for new carrots. If old ones
are be blanched first. béchamel sauce. sauce. cARorrEs CAROTTES A À LA· gEcHIMEL
BÉCHAMEL Carrots in bechamel Cook the carrots in salted boiling water or prepare
them in as Glazed the same way as serving, Glazed carrots (see below). Before
serving, add a a few few tablespoons Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE). add
SAUCE). Boiled carrots. carrots. cARorrEs CAROTTES A À r'ANcL.l,rsB L'ANGLAISE -
Cook Cook tender Boild carrots in boiling water. Drain them, and serve fresh butter
carrots separately. separately.

1. Long; ]llf.lfi 2. Short, ;i,?Tli'", forced variety ,'"',[?

Two varieties of carrot:

Buttered carrots. carrots. cARorrEs CAROTTES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE - Boil the

carrots. carrots, Buttered return them them to to the pan, add a little !ittle
butter, butter, and shake shake drain, return so that that each carrot receives a
coating coating of of butter. butter. so Carrots en en cheveux cheveux d'ange
(angel's hair). hair). c,morrEs CAROTTES EN Carots CHEVEUX D'ANGE D'ANGE - Carrot
jam which used used to be prepared cHEvEux

in the the south-west of France. France. (See crrnvuux CHEVEUX n'.l,Ncn.) D'ANGE.)
in Carrots I à la crlme crème I. 1. cA,RorrEs CAROTTES A À I"l LA cniur CRÈME -
Boil the Carrob drain, return to to the the pan and and cover coyer with with
boiling boiling carrots, drain, cream. Boil Boil down down by by two-thirds. two-
thirds. cream. Carrots i à le la cr0me crème II. II. clnorrss CAROTTES À rl LA
cnilrs CRÈME - Blanch Blanch 500 500 g. Carrots (generous 1 lb.) carrots, rinse
rinse in in cold co Id water, water, and and drain. drain. (generous Coyer with
more more cold cold water and and add add a a pinch of salt, salt, I 1 Cover

189 189
CARVING CARVING
(2 OZ., g. (2 tablespoon fine fine sugar sugar and and 50 50 g. oz., i* cup) cup)
butter. Bring butter. Bring lablespoon poin1, then boiling point, to boiling reduce
the then reduce leave ta and leave the heat heat and cook to cook to the liquid
liquid is is syrupy. until the syrupy. Test Test the carrots to to make sure they
the carrots they make sure until are cooked. If they are cooked. If are still still
bard, hard, add few tablespoons add a a few tablespoons are hot watcr water and and
boil down down until until the the Iiquid liquid again again becomes becomes hot
syrupy. syrupy. Pour boilîng boiling crearn cream over over the the carrots.
carrots. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, Pour lower the then lower heat and
the heat and simmer simmer until until the the cream cream has has boiled then a !
iUle. little. Add gently mixing Add 1 down a I tablespoon butter, butter, gently
mixing it in. it in. down particular Garnish accord according to the instructions
instructions of of the the partîcular Garnish lng to
recipe. purCe J, as Carroi Carrot purée same method as with the of a but with the
addition a sarne I, but addition of guarter oC weight ln puttiqg the of the the
carrots' carrots' weight when putting in rice rice when the quarter carrots on on
to to cook. cook. carrots addition of The addition of potatoes or rice in carrot
pur6es helps helps 10 to The improve their improve their (,{\T'~,(:lpTlrv
consistency. They are prepared in in this this way way garnishes. when used used
for for gamishes. when Carrot soufflé. sorff6. SOUFFLÉ sourrrf AUX AUx CAROTTES
cARorrEs -* Press Press 250 250 g. Carrot (generous lb.) carrots, pur6e, through a
carrots, prepared as opr\",r'~l\~ 1 for a as for a purée, I lb.) fine sieve. sieve.
Remove Remove the moisture from from the puree by by allowing it to to boil boil
rapidly for a few for a few moments. il yolks. Cool Take the the pan off off the
the heat heat and add 3 and add 3 egg egg yolks. Cool Take and add 3 whisked egg
whites. whites. Turn Turn into into a slightly and 3 stifry whisked a (200'C.,
400"f., dish and cook cook in 400'F., in the aven oven (200°C., buttered soufflé
souff6 dish 15 minutes. Serve Gas Mark Mark 6) 6) for for about about 15 Serve al
at once. Gas pETITs SOUFFLÉS soufres. PETITS carrot soufflés. Small carrot AUx
CAROTTES cARorrEs -SmaU sourrlfs AUX same as for for CarrOI Carrot soffii. Put the
soufRé soufrE Proceed in the sa me way as mixture in small small fireproof dishes
and cook for 6 ta mÎxture to 8 minutes. * Sieve 250 g. (generous nAIN DE g.
(generous ttmbale. PAIN DE CAROTTES cARorrEs Carrot timbale. j lb.) carrots cooked
pur6e, and cooked as pan over as for a a purée, and place in in a a pan over ~ for
a heat to to dry out for few minutes. Add dry out a few Add 3 whole whole eggs, mix
mix heat well, and and turn into a a buttered buttered charlone ...'~II·11 weil,
charlotte mould mould I1PI'r turn inlo decorated with sliced sliced cooked carrots.
pan of hOI Cook in hot water or bain-marie in in a moderate Cook in a pan (180'C.,
350°F., oven (180°C., Mark 4) for 350oF., Gas Gas Mark for 30 30 minutes. minutes.
Allow oven stand a a few few minutes before turning out out the mould. to stand
Serve with with béchamel bCchamel sauce, hollandaise sauce. santce, cream, cream,
or or hollandaise sauce, Serve Ia Vichy. Vichy. CAROITES i la cARorrEs À A LA u
vrcrry and slice Carrots il! VICHY - Pare and new carrots, carrots, and and cook
cook as as fOf for Glazed carrois, carrots, addîng adding for new for (scant pint,
2a I teaspoon salt, salt, 25 g. 2| cups) water, 1 each t ] litre (seant (l OZ., g.
(2 oz., o2.,2 oz., * cup) buller. 50 g. butter. (1 2 tablespoons) sugar and and 50
When the liquid is is very conce:ntrated concentrated and the the carrots are
glazed, arrange them in a a dish and and sprinkle with chopped sprinkle with
glazed, them in parsley. parsley. Old carrOis carrots can be used cut them used for
this preparation preparation but eut into strips, and blanch in salted boiling
cooking boiling water before cooking them with the other ingredients. Ingredients.
Sometimes Vichy water is cooking liquor, as the cooking is used as liquor, or
Sometimes a light of soda is added to plain water, Iight pinch of of bicarbonate
bicarbonate of water.

Carrots aux aux filles fines herbes herbes 1. c.morrns AUX Aux FlNES I. CAROTTES
FrNEs HERBES HERBES (see below). in the same way as as for for Glazed Glazed
carrois the sa canots (sec Proceed in me way parsley and with chopped Sprinkle with
chopped parsley and chervil. chervil. Sprinkle aux fines herbes II. II. CAROTTES
cenorrns AUX AUx F1NES fines herbes FrNEs HERBES HERBEs Carrots SIlX Pare and and
slice slice sorne some tender carrots. carrots. Blanch Blanch for minutes, 5
minutes, for 5 Pare drain, and and cook cook in in il a liule little butter.
butter. Season with salt Season with salt and and a drain, pinch of of sugar,
sugar, and parsley and and sprînkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley and
pinch chervil. chervi!. Carrot flan flan or or tart. tfft. FLAN FLAN AUX AUX
CAROTTES cARorus -- Partly Partly fill fill the Carrot bottom of of a a baked baked
pastry shell with a a slightly sweetened shell with bottom pur6e of of carroIs.
carrots. Cover with with finely finely sliced carrots carrots which have already
already been been cooked cooked according according to instructions for to
Înstructions for (see below). caruots (see below). Boil Boil down down the liquor
in in which the liquor Glazed carrOIs pour it the carrots have been and pour it
OVer over the the flan. flan. Sel Set the been cooked and in a a hot hot aven oven
for in for a few few minutes. flan can be prepared with a greater This flan greater
quantity quantity of sugar be prepared a sweet. as a as Glazed carrots. cLActEs
cARorrEs GLACÉES Pare sorne some young Glue<! carrots. CAROTTES - Pare pan and
carrots. Put them in in a pan and cover with cold water. Bring (l OZ., I teaspoon
g. (1 o2.,2 to the boil boil with with 1 teaspoon salt, 25 g. 2 tablespoons) (2
oz., and 50 sugar, and 50 g. (2 oz., ! these quansugar, * cup) butter, allowing
these (scant pint, for each I litre litre (seant cups) water. tities tities for pi
nt, 2{ cups) As soon as it it is boiling lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer
until practically evaporated. Shake the liquid sÎmmer until the lîquid has has
practically pan so properly covered the so that carrots are are properly covered
wlth with the the pan that the the carrots syrupy liquid use them syrupy lîquid and
and use them according to instructions. instructions. If old quarters, blanch are
used, cut them If old carrots carroIS are used, eut them in in quarters, blanch in
boiling boiling salted water, and slice. Glazed cARorrEs NouvELLEsi cI,ecfp-s
Glazed yourg young carrots. carrots. CAROTTES NOUVELLES GLACÉES Pare carrots of the
same Pare 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I 1 lb.) new carrots the sa me size,
cover cover with with stock, stock, and cook cook slowly in a covered covered pan
pan with 50 g. g. (2 a pinch of salt and (2 oz., OZ., * :t cup) cup) butter, a and
I 1 teaspoon sugar sugar until until the the liquid liquid is is entirely boiled
boîled down. down. When the carrots are are cooked cooked and and the the liquid
has has become become a a syrup, syrup, roll roll the carrots in in this this so
that each one is coated. coated. Carrots Carrots au jus. jus.. cARorrEs CAROTTES AU
AU JUs JUS - Proceed Proceed in in the the same way as Glazed camots, as for for
Glazed carroIs, but at the last moment add a few tablespoons tablespoons rich rlch
brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Simmer Simmer for for a a few minutes minutes
and serve. Serve. Carrot Carroi pur6e purée I. I. punfs PUREE DE DE cARorrEs
CAROTTES - Coqk Cook 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I 1 lb.) sliced new carrots
in salted water, with the addition addition of I 1 teaspoon leaspoon sugar sugar
and I 1 tablespoon butter. butter. Drain Drain the carrots carrots as soon soon as
as they they are cooked and put put them them through a fine sieve. sieve. a fine
Heat the pur6e. if the purée. Add Add a a little little of the cooking liquor if
pur6e purée is too thick, and incorporate 50 E, g. (2 (2 oz,l oz., cup) fresh
butter. butter. Mix Mix well weil and and serve. serve. One can use use the carrots
from pot-au-feu pot-ou-feu (q.v.) in in this this way. Carrot Carrot purde tr. II.
punEe PURÉE DE DE cARorrrs CAROTTES - Proceed in the the same same way way as as
for for Carrot CarroI purie purée I, l, but but 10 10 minutes minutes after aCter
setting the carrots carrots on the the stove stove add a quarter quarter of their
their volume volume of of sliced potatoes. potatoes. Carrot Carroi puree with with
cream. crearn. pURfE PURÉE DE DE cARorrEs CAROTTES A À L,c, LA cntrun CRÈME the
same way as as for for Caruot CarrOI purie.L purée J. Finish finish the the -
Proceed in the pur6e purée with wÎth 4 4 tablespoons lablespoons (| cup) boiled
boiled cream crearn and and I 1 tabletablespoon fresh fresh butter. butter. Carrot
pur6e purée with WÎlh rice. nce. punrs PURÉE DE DE cAnorrEs CAROTTES AU AU Rrz RtZ
- The The
190 190
CARVING. CARVING. p6coupecs DÉCOUPAGE - The The action actÎon of cutting up up
meat, poultry, poultry, game, game. etc. etc. to 10 serve at table. table. In In
former times, the carving of carried out of meat meat was was considered a a noble
noble art, art, carried
solely by high officials officiais of royal or princely households who were known
as dcuyers (esquires) as écuyers (esquires) tranchants. IranchalIIs. In royal
households, the écuyer icayer ftanchant Iranchalll was was usually a

nobleman nobleman and and he he always always carried carried out out his his
duties duties with wÎth his
sword at his side. The art of skilful carving carving was considered essential
essential by our forefathers forefalhers and was was taught to well-born young men
as as an indispensable part part of good good education. The last last tutor
proprovided for young noblemen was a master of carving. For for a long long time in
in French society society the carving carving and serving of of food was carried
out by the head of the household, who regarded regarded it il as a matter of honour
to carve skilfully. skilfully. The Russe, in France France of the the service
service it à la la Russe, The introduction introduction in which consists consists
of of presenting the diners diners with the the food already carved, carved, has
has caused the decline at the French French table table of this gracious custom.
The carving of meat meal is now done, done, at least in large restaurants,
taurants, by by a a specialist known as the the 'earver'. 'carver' He He may may
not not have have the the glamopr glamour of the the Ccuyer écuyer tranchant
trQl/cham but but he he has the the statns hdtel, and must status of maitre maître
d d'hôtel, must know know his his job job inside insÎde out. out. In In addition
addition to lO a a complete complete knowledge knowledge of of anatomy, analomy, he
he must have have great manual manual skill skill and physical physical strength,
so sa as as to be he able able to to sever sever the the joints joints of the the
animals animaIs he he has to to carve. He He must must also also have have an an
intimate întimate knowledge knowledge of the the grain and and texture of every
piece of of meat meat which which he he has has to lo carye, carve, and and he he
texture of must must work work with elegance and and delicacy. delicacy.
CASKING CASKING

€@Y

wMffiffi

game, fish, poultry, game, fish, meal. meat. carving poultry, Ways of carving
Duck;5. Turkey;4. l. Chicken; Chicken;2. Goose;3. 1. 2. Goose; 3. Turkey; 4. Duck;
5. 9. 8. Woodcock; Woodcock ; 9. Pigeon ; 6. 7. Partridge; Partridge; 8. Teal ; 7.
6. Teal; Pigeon; 13. Lobster; ll. Salmon;12. Turbot; 10. Sole; Turbot; 10. Sole;
II. Salmon; 12. Lobster; 13. Legof lamb; 15. Shoulderoflamb; Shoulderof lamb; Hare;
14. Legoflamb; Hare; Ham 18. Ham Loinofveal; Filletofbeef; 16. Loin ofveal; 17.
Fillet ofbeef; 18.

A number of restaurant carvers won a a world-wide world-wide have won carvers have
A number reputation. founded the the who founded Dugnol, who famous Joseph Joseph
Dugnol, reputation. The The famous Taverne Joseph, was a ter in One of of in the
art of of carving. carving. One a mas master the art his feats accomaccomone of the
the feats thus describes one his contemporaries thus plished by able man: by this
this most able 'It was few important for a a few was at a a dinner held by M.
Paillard for guests, members of of the spellbound spellbound guests, of the Paris
press. In front of Joseph dining-room of of in charge charge of of the the dining-
room was in who was Dugnol, who Joseph Dugnol, this while a Rouen Rouen duckling
duckling while carved a this famous establishment, carved holding prongs of a fork,
fork, so so that that there of a there on the the prongs holding it up impaled on
it up was nothing into very very thin duck into thin it. He He carved carved this
this duck nothing to support it. fillets all perfect order, dish underunderonto the
the dish fell, in in perfect order, onto all of of which feU, neath. 'with
admirable admirable adds the the narrator, narrator, 'with neath. And And that,'
that,' adds despatch less time than it it takes to tell.' tell.' and in in less
time than takes to despatch and Another Fr6d6ric Delair, Delair, the the the
celebrated celebrated Frédéric was the Another such such was ter great Frederick
was also master Tour d'Argent, who was also a a mas d'Argent, who Frederick of of
the the Tour in jointing and poultry, especially and carving carving poultry,
especially in the complex art art of ofjointing the complex Rouen gleat speciality
his speciality of of his which was was the the great Rouen duckling duckling which
restaurant. restaurant. Principles general principle, principle, ail all meat meat
As a a general carving of carving hinciples of - As should grain of meat. of the
the meat. vertically, across across the the grain should be carved vertically, be
carved The possible. as possible. large and and as as even even as as large The
slices must be slices must be as

rule. It It to this this rule. is an an exception exception to mutton is leg of of

lamb lamb or or mutton Only Only leg parallel to or at at right right to or in two
ways, either either parallel two ways, can can be carved in be carved notn is is
always always or not, Ham, whether whether boned boned or angles angles to the
bone. bone. Ham, to the if it it is is there. there. the bone bone if vertically,
towards towards the carved carved vertically, into Insert the fork into leg. Insert
with the the fork the leg. a chicken, chicken, begin begin with To To carve carve a
leg it as as a a lever lever on on the press down it, using using it the leg down
on on it, the and press the thigh thigh and to sever sever the the sinews. sinews.
along the carcase to the carcase knife slides as as the slides along the knife
joint. Next, remove the wing. For For Next, remove the wing. of the cartilage of
the joint. Sever the cartilage Sever the and feel feel for for the the wing and
purpose, insert fork under under the the wing insert the the fork this this
purpose, joint with lay the chicken carcase, lay the chicken knife. To To cut cut
up up the the carcase, joint with the the knife. in the the fork high high up up in
wedging the the fork Hold it it firm firm by by wedging on its back. on its back.
Hold lengthwise along along the the breastbone. breastbone. breast. Divide the
carcase lengthwise the carcase breast. Divide joint To joint way as as chicken.
chicken. To in the same way Nantes is jointed in the same Nantes duck duck
isjointed legs, as as for for the two two legs, a by detaching detaching the a
Rouen Rouen duck, duck, begin begirt by off the shave off the two two and shave its
back back and chicken. Lay the duck on on its chicken. Lay the duck Pressing
breastbone. Pressing side of ofthe the breast the breastbone. halves on either
either side halves of ofthe breast on into horizontally into fork, cut cut the the
breast breast horizontally firmly with the firmly down the fork, down with last of
all. removed last of ail. very wings are are removed The wings very thin thin
slices. slices. The

in milk milk which which substance in CASEIN. Albumenoid substance csEwr --

Albumenoid CASEIN. CASÉINE is the of which which is the is fermentation of rennet,
the the fermentation is coagulated coagulated by by rennet, origin cheeses. all
cheeses. origin of of ail
varieties of of these these CASHEW. There are are different different varieties
AcAJou -- There CASHEW. ACAJOU pear cashew is cul culticashew is trees. tias pear
known as The type commonly known type commonly trees. The cashew' so-called
cashewvated fruit, the theso-calIed Its fruit, regions. Its vated in in the the
tropical tropical regions. nut with with white nut tains an nut, an edible edible
white contains and con is kidney-shaped kidney-shaped and nut, is iscalled called
the the part around nut is aa sweet around this this nut fleshy part The fleshy
flavour. The sweet flavour. of whole of cashew-pear, raw throughout the whole
throughout the eaten raw is eaten which is cashew-pear, which It has hasaa
countries. It South European countries. in sorne some European and in America and
South America it can can be be pleasant, withsugar, sugar,it Mixed with pleasant,
slightly taste. Mixed slightly tart tart taste. refreshing made well as as aa
refreshing preserves, as as well made into into excellent excellent preserves,
beverage. beverage. produces aakind wine Fermented, kind of ofwine fruit produces
cashew-nut fruit the cashew-nut Fermented, the which or known as asanacard
anacardor popular in vinegar known which is in Brazil, Brazil, and andaavinegar
ispopular cashew-nut vinegar. cashew-nut vinegar.

Poultry Poultry shears shears (Cou/eU. (Coutell, André. Phot. Larousse) LaroussQ
Andrl. Phot.

CASKING. liquidinto intoaacask. cask. Pouringliquid ENToNNER- - Pouring CASKING.

ENTONNER
191 l9l
CASSATA
CASSATA. cASsArE CASSATE - The cassata is an ice ice cream cream block or mould
mould consisting consisting of two two differently flavoured fiavoured ice ice
creams creams with a a filling of of Chantilly cream cream and and crystallised
crystallised fruits fruits (previously soaked in in brandy brandy or or liqueur).
liqueur). It It varies varies greatly gteatly in (previously soaked quality and
delicacy. delicacy. quality and Method of of preparatroz. preparation. 'Wash 'Wash
I 1 kg. kg. (2* (2* lb., lb., 4| 4t cups) lukewarm water several times and and put
it in Carolina rice in lukewarm a large casserole. Cover Coyer with cold co Id
water, bring to the boil, allow to boil for a few seconds, and drain. drain. 'Then
'Then cover coYer the the rice with good beef beef stock to about double double its
its volume, volume, and and add add some sorne fat-skimmings fat-skimmings from a a
chicken chic ken broth. 'Bring to the boil and then draw off the heat, in order
order to rernove re)llove more easily easily the the small small amount of scum
that will
appear. appear.

CASSAVA. CASSA VA. MANroc MANIOC

- Plant Plant native native to to the the West West Indies, Equatorial Equatorial
America, and and Florida, U.S.A. The root, which which

is is a fleshy fleshy tuber, tuber, contains contains edible starch. The sap,
containing containing

hydrocyanic hydrocyanic acid, acid, is is poisonous. poisonous. The poison,

however, can be be eliminated e1iminated by by fermentation fermentation and
cooking. Some Sorne varieties varieties are sweet and do not oot contain poison;
they can be be roasted on embers embers and eaten. eaten.

In In South America, America, cassava is is used used in in the the manufacture

manufacture of
tapioca. tapioca. The The roots roots are are grated, grated, left to ferment
ferment and and then then pressed. pressed. The residue, residue, baked baked into
into a a flat fiat cake and powdered, powdered, forms forms afarinha afarinha
(Portuguese (Portuguese for for meal). meal). The The starch starch of of cassava,
cassava, dried dried quickly quickly by by heat heat when when in in a moist moist
condition, agglomeragglomerates ates into into small small masses masses known
known as tapioca. tapioca. In In Florida, Florida, cassava cassava is is used used
as as food food for man man and beast, beast, and and is is used used to to make
make starch and and glucose. glucose.
CASSE MUSEAU (Jawbreaker) CASSE-MUSEAU (Jawbreaker) - Very Very hard hard cake,
much much in in vogue vogue in in former former times, times, but but hardly hardly
ever ever made made today. today. Here Here is is a a recipe recipe for for this
this cake, cake, which which dates dates from from 1730: 1730: 'Take 'Take some
sorne cream cream cheese, chee se, 4 4 eggs, eggs, 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., * t
cup) cup) butter, butter, juice juice of of I t lemon, lemon, 300 300 g. g. (ll (11
o2.,2f, oz., 2i cups) cups) flour flour and and a pinch of salt. salt. Mix Mix
these these ingredients ingredients into into a soft paste paste and and pincb of
leave leave for for a a few few hours. hours. 'Make 'Make the the casse-museaux
casse-museaux in in the the form form of of very very small small buns. buns. Bake
Bake for for 15 15 minutes minutes at at a a low low temperature. temperature.
Split them them open open

and and put put them them back back in in the the oven oyen to to finish finish
baking.' baking.'

CASSEROLE CASSEROLE - Cooking Cooking utensil utensil made made in in copper,

copper, alualuminium, stainless stainless steel, steel, nickel, nickel, or or other
other metals; metals; and and also also in in minium, terracotta, terracotta,
fireproof fireproof porcelain, porcelain, tempered tempered glass, glass, and and
enamenamelled elled cast-iron, cast-iron. Many Many are are decorative decorative
enough enough to to use use as as serving serving dishes. dishes. Casseroles
Casseroles are are usually usually made made in in a a rounded rounded form, form,
with with one one

or or two two handles. handles. When When deep-sided, deep-sided, as as is is most

most common common in in
U.S.A., U.S.A., they they are are used used in in the the oven; oYen; when when
shallow-sided, shallow-sided, they they are are normally normally called called
sautoirs, sautoirs, sauteuses, sauteuses, plats plats d à sauter sauter (saut6
(sauté pan pan or or frying frying pan). pan).
CASSEROLE - In In French French cooking cooking the the term term casserole
casserole also also CASSEROLE denotes denotes a a preparation preparation generally
generally made made with with rice, rice, which, which, after after cooking,
cooking, is is fashioned fashionoo in in the the shape shape of of a a casserole,
casserole, or or a a timbale. timbale. Casseroles Casseroles are are also also made
made with with a a preparation preparation of of
duchess duchess potatoes. potatoes. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. a a casserole casserole is
is a a dish dish made made of of two two or or more more parts, parts, the basis
basis of of which which can can be, be, besides besides rice, ri ce, any any pasta
pasta (macironi, (macaroni, the spaghetti, spaghetti, etc.) etc.) with with meat
meat or or fish fish plus plus a a sauce sauce or or gravy, gravy, and and
vegetables. vegetables. This This one-dish one-dish meal meal can can be be
prepared prepared in in advance advance and and served served in in a a decorative
decorative casserole. casserole. Fi[ings Fillings for for rice rice casseroles.
casseroles. cARNrruREs GARNITURES pouR POUR cAssERoLES CASSEROLES AU AU Rrz RIZ -
All All the the fillings fillings indicated indicated elsewhere elsewhere for for
timbales, timbales, small small pbtty patty shells shells or or vol-au-vent vol-au-
vent can can be be used used for for this this entrie. entrée. Casseroles
Casseroles can can also also be be filled filled with with various various minced
minced meats meats

'Simmerfor about I 1 hour, and stir stir so that that the the grains grains burst
burst for about 'Simmer Let it it simmer simmer for for another another 20 20 to 25
25 minutes, minutes, and and stir stir it evenly. Let again. When you find find it
it is soft soft and and easy easy to crush between between the the again. fingers,
take it off the heat. If still hard, add a little more and leave to cook until
perfectly perfectly done. Stir it for a a stock and few minutes. minutes. few 'When
the the rice rice is is cool, cool, work it well well for a a time time with with a
wooden spoon so so that every grain is crushed. It must must be be wooden firm
though though malleable. malleable. firm 'Pour out out the the rice rice into into
a baking baking tin and and form it into a casserole-shape 12 12 cm. cm. (4 (4 to
to 5 5 inches) inches) high, making ma king it it smooth smooth cassprole-shape
with the the fingers. fiogers. To decorate decorate it, use use the the point point
of of a knife and and with of carrot to to emphasise emphasise the the shape shape
of the casserole. casserole. slices of 'Cover 'Coyer the the rice rice with with
clarified c1arified butter, butter, and put put in a a hot oyen for for about about
1t hours. hours. The colour col our should should be be a vivid vivid oven yellow.
yellow. When When it is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove the the cover coyer which
which you outlined when forming forming the the casserole, casserole, taking taking
care care to to remove rem ove outlined ail the the rice rice inside inside which
does not not adhere adhere to to the the crust. crust, which which all should be be
quite quite thin. thin. should 'Mix 1 tablespoon tablespoon rice rice from from the
the interior interior with witb a a little little 'Mix béchamel sauce sauce (if (if
the the filling filling is is to to use use this this sauce), or or Spanish Spanish
bicharnel (if the the casserole casserole is is to to be be filld filled with with
a ragottt ragoût containing containing sauce (rf sauce this), or or any any other
other sauce, sauce, and and use use to to garnish garnish the the crust which which
this), is filled filled with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is is
indicated. indicated. Before Before is serving, lightly lightly glaze glaze the the
projections projections of the the casserole.' casserole.' serving, (Car6me, Le
Phtissier Pâtissier royal.) royal.) (Carême, Le Small casseroles casseroles of of
rie riee (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). cAssERoLErrEs CASSEROLETTES Small
RIZ - 'These 'These are are made made in in the the same same way way as as
casserole casserole of of DE RIz DE rice. ri ce. Place Place them them in in a ahot
hot oven oyen on on a a metal metal sheet sheet 7 7 cm. cm. (3 (3 inches) inches)
apart. Take Take them them out out when when they they are are all ail a a good
good golden golden colour. colour. apart. 'To 'To serve, serve, fill fill them them
with with the the appropriate appropriate ragoirt.' ragoût.'

l]

CASSIA. cAssE CASSE - Pod Pod of of a a leguminous leguminous plant plant divided
divided into into CASSIA. compartments, each each enclosing enc10sing a a fairly
fairly large large seed, seed, sursurcompartments, rounded by by a a brownish
brownish pulp, pulp, which which is is sweet, sweet, slightly slightly acid, acid,
rounded that of of the the prune. prune. with a a flavour flavour resembling
resembling that with This pulp pulp has has laxative laxative properties.
properties. When When sieved sieved it it forms forms This the casse casse mondCe
mondée of of the the past. past. the CASSIS - Picturesque Picturesque fishing
fishing port port and and commune commune of of CASSIS Bouches-du-Rhône, which
which has has given given its its name name to to highly highly Bouchesdu-Rh6ne,
esteemed red, red, white white and and ros6 rosé wines. wines. (See (See PROVENCE.)
PROVENCE.) esteemed

(poultry, (poultry, game, game, etc.),fricassies etc.),fricassées of of fowl fowl

with with trufres, truffies, various various preparations preparations of of lambs'
lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffied trufHed foie foie gras gras esand with
with all ail kinds kinds of of ragofrts ragoûts and and salpicons. salpicons.
calopes, and calopes,

rich; rich; its its shape shape and and appetising appetising appearance appearance
give give it it a a distinct distinct character; character; it it is is certainly
certainly the the most most arresting arresting entrie entrée cooked cooked in in
the oven. oyen. the 'For 'For a a dinner dinner which which includes includes eight
eight entries, entrées, one one prefers prefersto to serve a a handsome handsome
casserole casserole of of rice ri ce rather rather than than a a hot bot pdti pâté
serve or or vol-au-venl, vol-au-vent, and and such such a a preference preference
is is right right for for the the casserole casserole is is the the most most
attractive attractive of of the the coloured coloured enties. entrées.

Rice Rice casserole casserole à I'ancienne l'ancienne (CarGme's (Carême's recipe).

recipe). cAssERoLE CASSEROLE AU AU RIz RIZ A À t'aNcrENxn L'ANCIENNE -'The - 'The
rice rice casserole casserole is is as as elegant elegant as as it it is is

Manufactureof ofcassis, cassis, Dijon Dijon(French (French Government Governmenl

Tourist Tourisl Ofrce) Office) Manufacture
r92 192
CASSOULET CASSOULET
CASSOLETTE CASSOLETTE - Small SmaJl dish dish in fireproof fireproof porcelain,
porcelain, metal metal or or fireproof fireproof glass, used used for presenting
presenting hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, hot hot or cold, cold, little little
entrdes, entrées, and and also also some some desserts. desserts. Duchess potatoes,
deep fried, fried, hollowed hollowed out and and stuffed stutfed Duchess potatoes,
with with with various various fillings, are are also also called cassolettes.
Filled with salpicons salpicons or ragofits ragoûts mixed mixed with with brown or
white sauce, they be served served as as hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or entries.
entrées. can be as sweets sweets are are filled filled with creams, creams, various
various Cassolettes served as Cassolettes sweetened pastes, or fruits fruits
poached poached in syrup. pas tes, or
CASSONADE - French French term for semirefined sugar. sugar. The CASSONADE yellow
yellow cane cassonade cassonade has has a a slight flavour fiavour of of rum rum
and and is used used in pdtisserie pâtisserie for this this reason. reason. The
beet beet cassonade cassonade has
rather rather an unpleasant unpleasant taste.
seven must be done done six six times. Serve Serve after after breaking breaking
the the crust crust seven times. A Languedoc this this is is called called a a
haricot haricot A royal royal feast; feast; in in Languedoc cream or or cassoulet.'
cassoulet.' comique Anatole France loved loved the the cassoulet.ln cassoulet. In
Histoire Histoire comique he wrote: wrote: Vavin, in the rue Vavin, a little 'I '1
am going going to lead lead you you to to a little tavern tavern in the rue but a
stupendous one dish, dish, but only makes chez Climence, Clémence, who only makes
one a stupendous legs of contains of which con de Castelnaudary, one: le one: le
cassoulet de Castelnaudary, which tains legs (preserved goose), goose), haricot
confit confit d'oie d'oie (preserved haricot beans beans previously previously good
it To he it must must be good sausages. blanched, pork pork fat, fat, and little
little sa usages. To cdsa long long time. Cl6mence's castime. Clémence's slowly for
have have cooked very very slowly for a years. She replenishes She replenishes for
twenty twenty years. soulet has been cooking for soulet has pork fat, fat, goose,
sometimes with pork sometimes with with goose, sometimes with the the pot pot
sometimes it is is haricots, but but it or some some haricots, in a a sausage
sausage or sometimes she she puts in sometimes and this remains, and this The basis
cassoulet. The basis remains, always same cassoulet. always the the same one gives
it it a a savour, savour, which which one and precious substance gives ancient and
in the masters, in the old Venetian masters, of the the old finds in in the the
paintings finds paintings of you to I wish wish you to taste taste Come, 1 women.
Come, amber flesh tints of their women. Cl6mence's cassoulet.' Clémence's of
Castelnaudary, Castelnaudary, ccssoulets; that of There are three kinds of
cassoulets; There and of Toulouse. Carcassonne, and of Carcassonne, differences:
following ditferences: have the the following should have The three three types
types should The pork, ham, prepared with ham, with fresh fresh pork, is prepared
that of of Castelnaudary is that ofCarcassonne ofpork, pork, and fresh bacon skins;
that of Carcassonne knuckle of mutton, leg of of mutton, a shortened shortened leg
of a addition to to the above of the addition with the has added added breast
breast in season; ofToulouse season; that of and partridges in Toulouse has confit
confit d'oie d oie or or confit mutton and and confit Toulouse sausage, sausage,
mutton of pork, Toulouse de canard. de made is made cassouler is way in in which
which the the cassoulet In Languedoc the the way ln it. Some cook the the Some cook
is preparing it. whoever is to whoever according to varies according varies
together, sausages and sa pork, mutton, skins and mutton, bacon bacon skins usages
together, haricots, pork, in the terrine, layers in the terrine, in alterna
alternate and then arrange these these in then arrange and te layers bread' of
breada thick sprinkling of with a thick sprinkling surface with covering the the
surface covering gently for for to cook cook gently oven to it to and take take it
to the the baker's oyen crumbs, and crumbs, hours. some hours. some haricot white
haricot Simmer white de Castelnaudary Castelnaudary 1 - Simmer Cassoulet de
Cassoulet
originates in CASSOULET - Haricot Haricot bean bean stew stew which which
originates CASSOLJLET with and mutton, or with Languedoc. It is prepared with pork
and goose dish which used goose or duck, duck, in in an an earthenware dish used to
to be its known as the cassolle d'Issel, from whence whence derives i ts name.
known Franc-Nohain, humorous poet, sang the praises of Languedoc cassoulet in in
his his Nouvelle cuisiniire cuisinière bourgeoise. He verse for cassoulef, gives a
recipe in verse cassoulet, the the substance of even gives is here: here: which is
a leg of one, a I see see two casseroles. In one, 'On a a moderate fire 1
(preserved goose goose or duck) duck) as de canard canard (preserved confit d'oie
or confit de and loin of mutton, are ribs of pork and weil as little sausages, well
sausages, ribs and 2 not forget flavouring, 2 tomatoes and forget the flavouring,
browning. Do not white Soissons haricots Meanwhile the onions cut in four. four.
Meanwhile the white Let the gently in the cooking are in the utensil. Let other
utensil. the other are cooking gently and meat arrange the beans and proceed for 2
hours, and proceed and then arrange in the same earthenware vessel, in such a way
that the goose or duck, mutton and distributed between layers of and pork are
distributed in the oven. cassoulet in the oyen. haricot beans. beans. After which
put the which put the cassoulet haricot golden cru forms, thick thick crust Then on
st forms, a golden the dish a on the surface of the the surface the incorporated
with the and because it must he be incorporated it, because fat. Break it, and fat.
wait until until oven, wait in the the oyen, rest Put it it back back in the
ingredients. Put rest of the and this this another crust forms, again must he be
broken: broken: and forms, which again

I-

(Rober tCarrier) Cassoulet Cassoulct(Robert Carrier)

193 193
CASTAGNACI CASTAGNA CI
beans and and bacon bacon skins glazed earthenware inaaglazed skins in earthenware
pot pot with with the the beans usual seasoning, seasoning, meats, meats, aromatic
aromatic vegetables vegetables and pinchof andaapinch of usual garlic. garlic.
Drain and place them and place them in in an an earthenware earthenware pot pot
which which has has Drain been lined lined with with the the fresh fresh bacon
bacon skins, skins, knuckle knuckle of pork, of pork, been pork, sa breast of of
pork, sausage, and aa leg leg of of confit confit d'oie. d'oie. breast usage, and
Sprinkle with with aa layer layer of of coarse coarse breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and
and add add Sprinkle goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for several hours. goose
fat. Cook gently in the oven for several hours. good golden When aa good golden
crust crust has has formed formed on on the the surface surface of of When the
cassoulet cassoulet stir stir it it in in with with aa spoon spoon and and repeat
repeat this 2 or this 2 or 3 3 the times. times. Gourmets like like this this
served served with with either either a a fine fine red red Aquitaine Aquitaine
Gourmets wine or or with with an an old old Minervois Minervois wine. wine. wine
Cassoulet de de Castelnaudary Castelnaudary fi tr -- For For eight people soak
eight people soak Cassoulet (If, pints, I litre litre (I~ pints, generous generous
quart) quart) dried dried white white haricot haricot beans beans 1 for several
several hours, hours, but not for for too but not too long long or or they they may
may begin begin to to for ferment. Simmer Simmer in in an an earthenware (l l oz.)
earthenware pot pot with g. (lI with 300 300 g. oz.) ferment. salt breast (7 oz.)
pork, 200 breast of g. (7 of pork, 200 g. oz.) desalted desalted rolled-up rolled-
up bacon bacon salt skins, a a carrot, carrot, an an onion onion stuck stuck with
with cloves, cloves, and and a a bouquet bouquet skins, garni containing 3 garlic.
Season 3 cloves cloves of of gar!ic. Season with with a a very very little little
garni containing salt. salt. In another another pan, pan, brown brown in in lard
lard or goose fat, (lf g. (1 or goose fat,750 lb.) 750 g. t lb.) In loin of pork
and of pork and 500 g. (generous I lb.) boned loin of mutton, 500 g. (generous
lib.) boned loin of mutton, loin well seasoned seasoned with with salt pepper. Add
salt and and pepper. Add 2 2 medium-sized medium-sized weil chopped on garni and
onions, a bouquet bouquet garni and 2 2 crushed crushed cloves cloves of of chopped
ions, a garlic. Continue Continue cooking cooking with with the lid on the !id
gravy or on and and add add gravy or garlic. beef stock stock from from time time
to to time. time. beef When the haricots are the haricots are nearly nearly cooked,
cooked, remove remove the the carrot, carrot, When onion, and and bouquet garni,
and bouquet garni, put in and put in the pork, mutton, the pork, mutton, a a onion,
garlic sausage, a leg of confit d'oie or confit de canard, dnd a garlic sausage, a
leg of confit d'oie or confit de canard, and a home-made sausage. sausage. Sim
gently for Simmer for 1 I hour. hour. home-made mer gently pieces of Remove the the
pieces meat from of meat from the the haricot beans. Cut Cut Remove haricot beans.
pork, mutton the pork, mutton and goose into and goose slices of of equal equal
size, size, cut cut the the the into slices bacon skins skins into pieces, the
garlic skinned gar!ic bacon into rectangular rectangular pieces, the skinned
sausage and and the sausage into slices. the sausage into slices. sausage Put into
a large earthenware pot lined with skins, Put into a large earthenware pot lined
with bacon bacon skins, alayer of haricot haricot beans beans and and then then a a
layer layer of of thc th" various various meats meats a layer of with alternate
layers, of their their sauce. sauce. Fill Fill the the pot pot with with alternate
layers, with some sorne of seasoning On seasoning each each one one with with a a
little little freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper. On the the last last
layer layer of of haricots haricots lay lay slices slices of of salt salt pork,
pork, bacon bacon skins, skins, and slices of and slices of garlic garlic sausage.
sausage. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with white white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and
pour pour over over them them a a goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for about l]
hours. little little goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for about It hours. Serve
Serve the the cassoulet cassoulet in in the the pot pot in in which which it it has
has cooked. cooked. There There are are other other Languedocian Languedocian
cassoulets, cassoulets, that that of of Luchon, Luchon, for example, which
pistache. is called for example, which is called pistache.

(A LA) CATALANE LA) -- Garnish Garnish for for large large pieces pieces of of meat
meat CAT ALANE (A composed of of aubergines aubergines sautéed saut6ed in in oil,
pilaf of oil, and and pilaf of rice. rice. composed (SeeGARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)
(See
CATECHU. CACHOU cAcHou -- Thick Thick sap sap which which cornes comes from from aa
CATECHU. variety of of lndian Indian acacia. acacia. Areca (betel nut). Areca
catechu cotechu (betel nut). The variety The catechu is is found found in in
compact, compact, crumbly, crumbly, irregular irregular masses masses catechu which
are are brownish brownish on on the the outside outside and and reddish-brown
reddish-brown on which on inside. It the inside. It should should neither neither
stick itick to to the the tongue tongue nor nor tint tint the the the saliva red.
red. saliva Its taste, taste, at at first first bitter bitter and and astringent,
astringent, becomes becomes sweet sweet Its and clean clean without without any any
smel!. smell. The The most prized varieties most highly highly prized varieties and
come from from Sri Sri Lanka Lanka and and Burma, Burma, the latter having the
latter having medicinal medicinal come properties. properties. The catechu catechu
contains contains a a strong proportion of strong proportion of tannin, tannin, The
gives it which gives it astringent astringent properties. properties. which

Catfish Catfish

porssoN-cHAr - American CATFISH. river fish fish found prinCA TFISH. POISSON-CHAT -
American river cipally in in the the Mississippi basin. basin. It It has six bar
barbels cipally has six bels or feelers around the the mou mouth from 30 (12 to 30
to to 60 60 cm. cm. (12 to 24 around th reaching from inches) in in length. length.
The flesh is is delicate and and there there are not too inches) manv bones. many
bones.

CASTAGNACI CASTAGNACI (Corsican (Corsican cookery) cookery) - Thick Thick fritters

fritters or or
waffies made with chestnut flour. waffies made with chestnut flour.

meat. meaL The The Castiglione Castiglione garnish garnish consists consists of of
large large mushrooms mushrooms stuffed stuffed with with rice rice and and browned
browned in in the the oven, oven, aubergines aubergines saut6ed in butter, and
slices of poached beef marrow- (see sautéed in butter, and slices of poached beef
marrow (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES).

preparation CASTIGLIONE CASTIGLIONE (A (A LA) LA) - Preparation of of small small

pieces pieces of of

Cat Cat and aDd rabbit rabbit bones: bones: A. of rabbit: Hindlimbofrabbit; A.
Hindlimb B. B. Hindlimb Hindlimb of ofcat; cat; C. C. Forelimbofcat; Forelimbofcat;
D. rabbit D. Forelimb Forelimb of ofrabbit

CASTRATE. CASTRATE. cuArnrn CHÂTRER - Castration Castration of of animals animais

destined destined for their fattening. fattening. for the the butcher, butcher, to
to hasten hasten their The The word word chdtrer châtrer is is also also applied
applied to to ihe the removal removal of of the the
intestines intestines of ofcrayfish crayfish (U.S. (U .S. crawfish) crawfish)
before before cooking. cooking. In In order order

intestines intestines emerge. emerge. CAT. cH,c,r Domestic cat whose CAT. CHAT -
Domestic cat whose edible edible meat meat has has a a flavour flavour halfway
halfway between between that that of of rabbit rabbit and and hare. hare. Cat's
Cat's meat rneat has has often periods been eaten in of famine famine or or siege.
siege. Legend Legend has has often been eaten in periods of it that in in the the
cook-shops cook-shops the the cat cat is is often often used used in in the the
making ma king it that of of rabbitfricassies. rabbit fricassées. Examination
Examination of ofthe the bones bones would would easily easily enable of doubt,
doubt, to to distinguish distinguish between between the the enable one, one, in in
case case of two animals. two animais.

to to do do this this the the central central part part of of the the tail tail is
is pinched pinched and and the the

194 194
CAULIFLOWER CAULIFLOWER P or KETCHUP CATSUP - Condiment of English English origin,
origin, CATST widely used in England England and and U.S.A. It has has a a tomato
used both in base and is highly spiced. spiced.
CAUF. BANNEToN BANNETON - Receptacle Receptacle with with holes holes which permits
permits CAUF. fish to be kept alive in water. This term is also used usee! to
describe a baker's bread basket. basket. CAUL. cntprhrr CRÉPINE - Membrane Membrane
enclosing the paunch paunch of enclosing the CALTL. animaIs, applied applied
particularly to to that that of pork and and mutton. animals, In French, this is
also called toilette.
CHOU-FLEUR -- Vegetable Vegetable of CAULIFLOWER. cHou-FLEUR of oriental oriental
origin, known known in Italy since the sixteenth sixteenth century. A delicate

food which must always always be bought when when its leaves are green. This is is
an an indication of freshness. The leaves leaves are are edible. CHOU-FLEUR A À
r'lNcrArsn L'ANGLAfSE - Boil Boiled cauliflower. cauliflower. cHou-FLEUR Boiled
Boil a drain and and serve with melted in salted water, drain cauliflower in salted
water. serve with butter. butter. According to the English a cauliflower served in
Engl.ish method a way must must be be cooked whole, whole, with with two this way
rows of tender two rows leaves enveloping the flower-head. The leaves, ribs, The
ribs, and not be be wasted. wasted. They and stems should not are excellent trimmed
and cookee! cooked with the white part. They excellent trimmed can also be used for
soup, can also soup, hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, etc. etc.

or noisette cHouCauliflower with Cauliflower with brown butter butter or noisette

butter. butter. CHOUcauliflower florets in salted - Boil the cauliflower a dish in
in the shape of a dome. water and and arrange them on a and lemon Cover with
Sprinkle with chopped parsley and Sprinkle lemon juice. juice. Coyer (see BUTTER,
BUTTER, Combutter (see Brown butter butter or with Noisette butter pound butters.)
m CRÈME cnErvrn cream. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR A Cauliflower Cauliflower with cream.
À LA - Cook above, drain, and and toss described above, the cauliflower cauliflower
in the way described in their original form. their original in Rearrange the the
florets butter. Rearrange florets in in butter. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). a Cre Crearn
Cover with a Coyer am sauce sauce (see EN FRITOTS FRITors Cauliflower fritters.
fritters. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR EN Cauliflower - Cook the water, keeping them
rather florets in in salted salted water, cauliflower florets keeping them in oil,
oil, lemon and soak them 30 minutes in Drain, and firm. them for firm. Drain, for
30 juice, pepper. and pepper. chopped parsley, parsley, salt and juice, chopped
(see BATTER). in BATTER). Fry Fry in in a a light light batter Dip the Dip the
florets florets in batter (see Serve with tomato fried parsley. and sprinkle
sprinkle with fried deep fat and parsley. Serve sauce. sauce.
FLET;R FLEUR AU BEURRE BEURRE NorR NOIR -

gratin au gratin Cauliflower Cauliflower au

Cauliflower, Cauliflower, whole and flower and with flower head detached (right),
which is is the only only detached (right), part generally generally used used for
for consurnption consumption

(cold). CHOU-FLEUR BoiIed with various variors sauces sauc€s (cold). cHou-FLEUR
Boiled cauliflower with into florets, florets, cook cook them in cauliflower into
them in the cauliflower - Divide the salted put tbem cold tap. water, drain, and
put the cold tap. under the drain, and salted water, them under Arrange in their
form. Serve Serve with Arrange the florets in their original original form. the
Borets Vinaigrette sauce, cold sauce Mayonnaise or or sorne some other other cold
sauce sauce, Mayonnaise (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). (hot). CHOU-FLEUR Boiled with
various variors sauces sauces (hot). cttou-FLEUR Boiled cauliflower cauliflower
with BOUILLI into florets, florets, trim, and boil boil cauliflower into trim, and
BourLLr -- Divide the the cauliflower them in their in salted Drain, and and
arrange arrange them them in their water. Drain, them in salted water. original
form. Garnish with fresh fresh parsley. original form. Garnish with Serve for
melted butter butter or or one one of of the the usual usual sauces sauces for with
melted Serve with boiled White sauce, sauce, etc. etc. vegetables: Cream,
Hollanldaise, White boiled vegetables: Cream, Hollandaise, (see (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
BOUILLI BourLLI -

GRATIN -- Cook Cook the au gratin. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR AU AU GRATIN Cauliflower

au and in boiling salted water, water, drain drain them, them, and cauliflower
florets in boiling salted cauliflower florets gratin dish dish and and in butter.
Arrange on on a a buttered buttered gratin toss toss gently in (see SAUCE).
Sprinkle with coyer sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with Mornay Mornay sauce cover with
oven. in the grated chee and brown brown in the oyen. grated se and and melted
melted butter, butter, and cheese rrtIt,c,NAIsE -A LA rl MILANAISE cnou-rrsuR À
Cauliflower à I la la milanaise. milanaise. CHOU-FLEUR drain water, drain in
boiling salted salted water, Cook florets in Cook the cauliflower florets the
cauliflower grated Pargently in Parwith grated and in butter. butter. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with and toss toss them them gently oven. When When in the Brown in mesan
melted butter. butter. Brown the oyen. cheese and and melted mesan cheese (see
BUTTER, BUTTER, pour on Noisette butter butter (see serving, a little little
Noisette serving, pour on a Compound Compound butters). butters). in MoRNAY --
Prepared Prepared in Cauliflower Mornay. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR MORNAY Cauliflower
Mornay. gratin. the me way &t gratin. way as as Cauliflower Cauliflower au the sa
same pAIN DE in the Made in the Cauliflower DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Made mould.
PAfN Cauliflower mould. pur6e of a purée of with a same Endive loaf(see ENDIVE) but
but with same way way as as Endive loaf (see ENDIVE) ca uliflower. cauliflower.
PoLoNAISE -Cauliflower i, LA LA POLONAISE la polonaise. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-TLEUR À i
la Cauliflower à and sprinkle sprinkle Arrange on a a buttered dish and Arrange
cooked cauliflower on buttered dish cooked cauliflower yolks mixed with chopped
chopped mixed with with egg yolks with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled egg
(see parsley. Pour Noisette butter butter (see parsley. cauliflower Noisette Pour
over over the the cauliflower fried in which which have have been been fried
BUTTER, butters) in BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) (4 oz., g. (4 (l oz., per
100 g. (1 100 g. oz., ! 25 25 g. fresh breadcrumbs oz., t cup) fresb breadcrumbs
per I I cup) frothy. cup) at once; should be be frotby. cup) butter. Serve at once;
the the butter butter should butter. Serve

195 195
CAVAILLON CAVAILLON punfr DE pur6e. PURÉE Cauliflower purée. DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-
FLEUR -- Cook Cook and and CauliOower drain a a caulifiower, cauliflower, dry it
for for aa moment moment in dry it in the the oyen, oven, and and drain pass it it
through through a a sieve. sieve. Add Add one-quarter one-quarter of of its its
weight weight of of pass potato purée, pur6e, and and heat. heat. Mix Mix in fresh
cream, in fresh cream, butter and butter and potato seasoning. seasoning.
Cauliflower sai salad. sALADE DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Boil Boil aa
caulicauliCauliflower ad. SALADE flower in in salted salted water, water, and and
drain. drain. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, flower juice,
salt lemon juice, pepper. Sprinkle salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped
chopped chervil. chervil. lemon Cauliflower sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter.
CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR SAUTÉ slur6 AU eu CauliOower BEURRE -- Blanch Blanch
cauliflower cauliflower florets, florets, drain, drain, and and cook cook in in
BEURRE butter until lightly browned. until lightly browned. Arrange Arrange in in a
pour a dish dish and and pour butter the butter butter over. over. the Cauliflower
soufflé. sorffd. SOUFFLÉ sourrrf DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Prepare Prepare
Cauliflower with cauliflower cauliflower boiled boiled in in salt salt water.
water. Pass Pass it it through a fine fine through a with in the (see CHICORY,
sieve, in same way as for for Chicory the same way as Chicory soufflé CHICORY,
sou,ffii (see sieve, ENDTVE). ENDIVE). Stalks and and stumps stumps of of
cauliflower. cauliflower. MOELLE MoELLE DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR Stalks Trim the
the stalks stalks or removing the or stumps, stumps, removing woody outer outer the
woody - Trim casing. Blanch Blanch whole whole if if they they are with the vegeare
to to be be served served with the vegecasing. are to table. If If they they are be
cooked cooked separately, separately, cut to he pieces. cut into into pieces.
table. After blanching, these prepared these stalks stalks and and stumps stumps
can can be be prepared After in the way as the same same way as artichoke artichoke
stalks stalks or or endive endive stumps. stumps. in
CAVAILLON -- Little Little town in the Vaucluse district town in the Vaucluse
district which which CAVAILLON given its has given (see MELON). its name name to
variety of a variety to a of melon melon (see MELON). has
CAVEAU Small cellar, cellar, sometimes sometimes reserved for for fine fine wines.
wirres. CA VEAU - Small
The baby baby sturgeons sturgeons rapidly rapidly struggle from the freefrom
struggle free fertile the fertile The eggs and, and, after after aa three-month
period in place of three-month period in the theplace of their their eggs birth,
descend descend to mouth of of the to the the mouth riverwhere wherethey remain the
river they remain birth, years. They for several several years. They then move to
andlive livethere then move to the thesea sea and for there grown, returning
returning to until fully fully grown, to the river only only when the river when
they until they reach the age of reproduction. the age of reproduction. reach At
one one time, time, the the Cossacks Cossacks of of the Ural River River harpooned
harpooned the Ural At holes in fish through the fish through holes in the the ice,
ice, thus thus obtaining obtaining the first the the first year. This yellowy-gold
caviare caviare of of the This yellowy-gold the year. caviare was was superior
superior caviare gift worthy rest, aa gift all the to ail the rest, Tsar, to
preworthy of of the whomthey the Tsar, to whom they preto it. sented it. sented
Extracting the caviare is is aa knack knack acquired the caviare acquired only only
through Extracting through Immediately the gutted (while (while fish is experience.
Immediately the fish iscaught, it is isgutted caught, it experience. still al
alive, and after after having having let let its its blood still ive, and blood
through through an an incision incision under the the caudal caudal fin fin so as
to so as to diminish its reactions). reactions). The under diminish its The are
immediately immediately extracted eggs are placed on a special extracted and and
placed eggs on a special sieve sieve washed, drained, to be be washed, drained, and
and salted. salted. to perfected a Soviet scientists scientists have have perfected
a type Soviet of Caesarian type of Caesarian operation for for sturgeons possible
for sturgeons that makes it operation that makes it possible for them them to to be
thrown thrown back into the river alive back into the river alive and and
recommence recommence the be the reproduction cycle. cycle. reproduction process,
Iran Whatever the the process, Iran and proand Russia, Russia, the Whatever the
biggest biggest producers, offer offer three three types types of of caviare:
cavi4re: ducers, malossol -- A plump, Caviare firm, plump, Caviare malossol A fresh
fresh caviare caviare with with firm, packed in sparkling eggs eggs packed in
specially sparkling lasso 1 specially treated treated tins. tins. Ma Malossol
'slightly salted' means 'slightly Russia. salted' in in Russia. means Fresh salted
Fresh salted caviare caviare -- From From both Russia and and Iran. both Russia
Iran. It It is is prepared using prepared using eggs eggs collected collected
during during the the hot hot season. season. Packed Packed (132 lb.) in in casks
casks which which contain contain approximately kg. (132 approximately 60 lb.) 60
kg. caviare. It It is is difficult difficult to in Europe. caviare. to find find in
Europe. Pressed the fishing at the Pressed caviare caviare -- Prepared Prepared at
fishing season. the end end of ofthe season. It It consists consists of a dense
mass of of a of crushed crushed black dense mass black eggs eggs which which are
are jars. packed in glass jars. in small packed small glass production of French
French annual annual production of caviare caviare does does not not amount amount
to to (which at more more than than 3 tons, and and the 3 tons, the sturgeon
sturgeon (which at one one time time was was even even caught caught in rare. in
the and more more rare. the Seine) Seine) is is becoming becoming more more and
Depending Depending upon yields upon its its age age and and size, size, a a female
female sturgeon sturgeon yields (9 to anything anything from from 4 4 to 16 kg. kg.
(9 lb.) eggs. to 16 to 35 eggs. The The average average 35 lb.) yield per (13 lb.)
per fish yield in the the Gironde Gironde is is 6 kg. (13 lb.) Eaten fish caught
caught in 6 kg. Eaten lightly lightly salted salted a a few few days days after
after being being fished, fished, French French caviare caviare is is delicious.
Gourmets Gourmets eat eat caviare caviare as as it it is, is, without without toast
toast or or butter, butter, juice. simply on juice. simply adding a a sprinkling
lemon sprinkling of of lem There qualities of There are are different different
qualities of caviare caviare and and many many other other fishes' fishes' eggs are
sold eggs are commercially under sold commercially under the the name name of of
('salmon caviare', 'caviare' 'caviare' ('salmon caviare', for for example),
example), but but the the term term 'caviare' on its own can on its can only be be
used used to to designate products based based on on sturgeon roe.

CAVEAU(LE)society, bacchic and gastronomic. and gastronomic. CAVEAU .t'LE) -

Literary society, in 1729 by Piron, Piron, Collé, Coll6, Gallet Gallet and and
Crébillon Cr6billonfils. Founded in fils.
CAVIARE. cAvrAR The roe roe of the the sturgeon sturgeon family, family, lightly
lightly CA VIARE. CAVIAR - The salted saI ted or marinated. is the 'fruit' of the
'fruit' of the the sturgeon, sturgeon, a a migra migratory fish, of of Caviare is
tory fish, which there there are are a a dozen dozen or or so so different
different varieties, varieties, each each which belonging to one of two two
species. species. That That found found in in the Gironde sturio. is Acipenser
sturio. The sturgeon sturgeon lives lives in in coastal coastal waters waters and
and in in the the spring, spring, The it swims up up the rivers to spawn. The time
when fully grown, it of this migratory the temperature of migra tory movement
depends upon the of the water, which itself depends upon upon the the severity
severity of the of preceding win winter and the the melting snows. It It usually
usually takes ter and melting snows. place sometime between March and and July. The
females year) search their eighth eighth or or ninth ninth year) The females (then
(then in in their for a deep sandy pool in the upper reaches reaches of ofthe the
river where the water is fresh; fresh; while the males (from six to to seven seven
years onwards) love pursuit, pursuit, escorting the of love onwards) engage in in a
a kind kind of females to the spawning grounds.

CA VOUR (À (A LA) preparing small CAVOUR pieces of small pieces of - Method of

preparing meat, meat, especially especially veal veal escalopes escalopes and and
calves' calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. These are served on circles of polenta,
garnished garnished with grilled grilled pur6e of mushrooms and and filled filled
with with a a purée livers and of chicken livers and slices of truffie. YENNE
PEPPER CA PEPPER CAYENNE pimenta. pimento.

See pepper or See PEPPER, PEPPER, Red Red pepper or

CELERIAC or CELERY ROOTS. CÉLERI-RA VE CELERIAC cfr-rRr-n^q,w

- Celeriac - Celeriac is a variety variety of of celery which has has a large

edible edible root. Wash and

Caviare ((Pelrossian. Phal. Nicolas) C.attlare Petossian. Phot.

celeriac. Divide into quarters and pare the celeriac. and cut cut into into pieces
or large slices. Blanch them for for 5 minutes in in boiling salted salted water,
plunge into cold water, water, drain, water, drain, and and wipe wipe dry. dry.
Cook Cook them in butter, adding a little littIe white stock or water. All Ali the
are applicable to recipes for branch celery are to celeriac. The following recipes
can also be be applied to this this vegetable. The vegetable. JULIENNE oE DE
CÉLERI-RAVE Celeriac julienne. JULTENNE cfrenl-nAvE - Used Used as as a a celeriac,
wash and cut it into matchgarnish. Pare a root of celeriac, or julienne julienne
strips. Put them into a sauté pan pan in in which which stick or a saut6

196 196
CELERY CELERY

I1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter has has been been heated. heated. Add Add
salt salt and and a a little little powdered powdered sugar, sugar, and and cook
cook slowly. slowly. Celeriac Celeriac purde. purée. punrn PURÉE or DE cfrnru-Rlvs
CÉLERI-RAVE - Garnish Garnish for for large large or or small small pieces pieces
of of meat. meat. The The pur6e purée is is prepared prepared in in the the same
same way way as as for for Cardoon Cardoon purie purée (see (see CARDOON).
CARDOON). Salpicon of of celeriac. celeriac. sALPIcoN SALPICON os DE cErrRI-nAvE
CÉLERI-RAVE - Cut Cut the the Salpicon celeriac into into squares, squares, blanch
blanch in in salted salted water, water, drain, drain, and and celeriac cook cook
in in butter. butter. Stuffed celeriac celeriac il à la la paysanne. paysanne.
cfr,Eru-nc,vE CÉLERI-RAVE A À uq. LA p.lvslNNe PAYSANNE Stuffed - Used Used as as a
a garnish. garnish. Pare Pare and and slice slice 2 2 oeleriac celeriac roots roots
into into rounds rounds 3 3 cm. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) thick. thick. Blanch Blanch
for for 5 5 minutes minutes in in salted salted water, into cold cold water, water,
drain, drain, and and dry dry in in a a cloth. clotho Scoop Scoop water, plunge
plunge into its depth. a a hollow hollow in in each each slice slice to to half
halfits depth. Dice Dice the the pulp pulp which which has has been been hollowed
hollowed out, out, and and add add double double the the quantity quantity of of
carrot and and onion onion brunoise brunoise (q.v.) (q.v.) sautéed in in butter
butter and and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper.
saut6ed Stuff the the celeriac slices with this this mixture. mixture. Put Put them
tbem in in a a buttered ovenware ovenware dish, dish, dust dust them them with with
grated grated cheese, cheese, buttered sprinkle with melted melted butter, butter,
and and brown brown in a a moderate moderate oven' oyen. sprinkle All used for
tomatoes tomatoes and artichoke hearts hearts Ali the stuffings used be applied
applied to celeriac. celeriac. can also be

gated gated by by trussing trussing or or culture cultrne in in the the dark, dark,
or or the the roots roots (celeriac) (celeriac) are are eaten. eaten. Both Both are
are eaten eaten raw raw in in salad, salad, or or cooked. cooked.

Celery Celery contains contains an an essential essential oil, oil, which which is
is highly highly aromatic. aromatic. According According to to the the different
different varieties, varieties, either either the the stems, stems, elonelon-

The The Loire Loire Valley Valley is is the the principal principal region region
of of French French proproduction. duction. Celery Celery has has diuretic diuretic
and and appetite-stimulating appetite-stimulating properties. properties. Celery
Celery juice juice is is rich rich in in Vitamins Vitamins A A and and C. C.

BRANCH BRANCH (FORCED) (FORCED) CELERY. CELERY. cfrnru CÉLERI EN EN BRANcHBS

BRANCHES Trim Trim off off the the upper upper branches brancbes of of the the
celery, celery, keeping keeping only only the the tender tender parts. parts.
Remove Remove the the green green outer outer stems stems and and trim trim the the
root. root. Wash Wash the the base base of of the the celery, celery, allowing
allowing water water to to run run
between between the the stems stems so so that that all ail earth earth or or other
other foreign foreign matter matter is is washed washed away. away. Pare Pare the
the outer outer stems stems to to remove remove the the fibres. fibres.

Blanch Blanch the the celery celery in in boiling boiling salted salted water water
for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Plunge Plunge into into cold cold water, water,
drain, drain, and and wipe wipe dry' dry. Spread Spread out out on on a a cloth,
cio th, open open the the stems stems slightly slightly and and season season
inside. inside. Tie Tie them them together, together, 2 2 or or 3 3 at at a a time,
time, and and put put them them in in a deep casserole casserole which which is is
already already buttered buttered and and lined lined with with a deep Cover
carrots. and sliced bacon bacon rinds, rinds, chopped chopped onions onions and
sliced carrots. Coyer
with with white white stock stock from from which which not not all ail the the fat
fat has has been been skimmed, skimmed,

or or with with beef beef stock. stock. Begin Begin cooking cooking on on the the
stove, stove, then then remove rem ove the the pan pan to to the the at a oven oyen
and and cook cook for for l] 1t hours hours at a low low temperature. temperature.
au maigre Celery Celery can can be be cooked cooked au maigre (without (without
meat) meat) by by omitomitstock with replacing the and replacing rinds and ting
ting the the bacon bacon rinds the stock with water. water. sfcHlMEL cELERIS A
sauce. CÉLERIS with b6chamel Celery with Celery béchamel sauce. À rl LA BÉCHAMEL
each and halve drain, and Braise Braise the the celery, celery, drain, halve it it
lengthways. lengthways. Fold Fold each l0 for 10 and sim simmer in a a buttered put
in buttered pan portion in half, half, put portion in pan and mer for (see too
thick thick (see sauce Bichamel sauce with Béchamel Cover with minutes. - not
minutes. Coyer not too minutes. a few few minutes. again for for a Simmer SAUCE).
Sim SAUCE). mer again and Trim, wash, wash, and BEURRE cELERIs AU in butter.
butter. CÉLERIS Celery in - Trim, Celery AU BEURRE Halve water. Halve in salted
salted water. l0 minutes minutes in for 10 heads for celery heads blanch celery
blancb in a a portion in in two. Place in two. Place each portion and bend bend
each lengthways and them lengthways them few tabletablewith a a few pan, season,
and moisten moisten with season, and well-buttered pan, well-buttered for 45 45
minutes minutes covered, for Cook, covered, water. Cook, or water. white stock
stock or spoons white spoons

Varietiesof ofcelerv and celeriac celeriac Varieties celery and

Usedaa celery. Used wild celery. form of of wild Cultivated form CELERY. cErenr- -
Cultivated CELERY. CÉLERI into wider wider not come come into did not Romans,
celery celerydid great deal great deal by the Romans, by the havetried tried
Growers have century. Growers cultivation the sixteenth sixteenth century. until
the cultivation until asthe root. asweil wellas the root. to leaves as the leaves
todevelop develop the
197 197

I horn. hour. or 1 or and shorten shorten Pare and A LA CRÈME cniue -- Pare
cfrnp.ls À with cream. cream. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery from fibres from the
fibres remove tbe and remove Wash them them and celery. Wash of celery. heads of
heads plunge water, plunge boiling water, in salted salted boiling Blanch in stems.
Blanch outside stems. the outside the drY. and dry. drain, and water, drain, into
cold cold water, into in a a wellwellarrange them them in lengthways, arrange Halve
the heads lengthways, the heads Halve (or with with light bouillon bouillon (or
with a a light pan, season, and coyer cover with season, and buttered pan, buttered
maigre)' au maigre). you want serve them them au want to to serve if you water if
water put it for pan and it in in the the oyen oven for and put the pan Cover the
Bring to to the the boil. boil. Coyer Bring and pieces in in half, half, and the
pieces celery, bend bend the the celery, Drain the I hour. hour. Drain about 1
about it down. down. and boil boil it liquor, skim, skim, and the liquor, place on
a dish. dish. Strain Strain the on a place sauce B6chamel sauce (3 tablespoons,
cup) Béchamel scant I cup) tablespoons, scant it t+ dl. dl. (3 Add to to it Add
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see (| pint, fresh cream. cream. thick fresh pint, seant cup)
thick scant cup) 2 dl. dl. (1 with 2 Moisten with Moisten Mix, strain, strain, I
tablespoon butter. Mix, add 1 tablespoon butter. and add half and Boil down down by
by balf Boil the celery. celery. pour this over the sauce and porn this sa and uce
over rl' A LA (cold hors cfreRJs À d'cuvre). CÉLERIS hon d'œuvre). grecque (cold la
grecque Celery à la Celery quarters into quarters well, divide divide into wash
weil, heads, wash Trim celery celery heads, cREceuE -- Trim GRECQUE fot Artichokes
Artichokes à h described for manner described prepare them in the the manner them
in and prepare and (see ARTICHOKE). grecque (see ARTICHOKE). la grecque la The same
as same as I'ITAIIENNe A L'IT cfrnrus À l'italienne. CÉLERIS Celery àI l'italienne.
Celery AUENNE -- The (see CARDOON). CARDOON). I'italienne (see d l'italienne for
Cardoons Cardoons à for jus. CÉLERIS for Cardoons Cardoons asfor The same same as
AUJUS Jus -- The cfrrrus AU Celery au au jus. Celery jus (see (see CARDOON).
CARDOON). au jus au as The same same as A LA t A MOELLE l,roslt,s -- The c6rsnts À
with marrow. marrow. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery (see CARDOON). CARDOON). withmarrow
marrow (see forCardoons Cardoons with for as for for The same sameas MoRNAY - Tbe
cfrnrus MORNAY Mornay. CÉLERIS Celery Mornay. CeJery (see CARDOON). CARDOOI'{).
Mornay (see Cardoons Mornay Cardoons The same same PARMESAN- - The AUPARMESAN
cfI.sns AU with Parmesan. Parmesan. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery (seeCARDOON).
CARDOOI'Q. Parmesan (see withParmesan asfor forCardoons Cardoons with as peCÉLERIS
punfeDE pur6e in inthe the thepurée Prepare the pur6e.PURÉE cfLBRIs- - Prepare
Celerypurée. Celery

-
CELLAR
same way way as as for purie (see (see CARDOON), for Cardoon Cardoon purée
CARDOON), using using same braised celery, celery, cooked cooked with with beef
beefbouillon bouillon or or water. water. Add Add braised potatoes in proportion of
in the the proportion of aa third third of of the the volume volume of of the the
potatoes celery; this this improves improves the the consistency. consistency.
celery; Celery with with various various sauces. sauces. CÉLERIS cELERrs AUX AUx
SAUCES sAUcEs DIVERSES DrvERsEs Celery Pare, wash, wash, and and blanch blanch
celery. celery. Cook Cook in in salted salted water, water, drain, drain, -- Pare,
and serve serve like like asparagus, asparagus, with with sauces sauces handed
handed separately. separately. and Celery vinaigrette. vinaigrette. CÉlERIS cfrsRrs
À A LA r.q, VINAIGRETTE vtN.q,rcRETrr -- Scrape Scrape Celery and wash wash the the
celery. celery. Arrange Arrange the the sticks sticks in glass. in aa crystal
crystal glass. and Serve with (see SAUCE) with Vinaigrellesallce Vinaigrette sauce
(see SAUCE) handed handed separately. separately. Serve

viding him him with with the theenergy energy necessary necessary for physical
work, for his his physical work, viding as weil well as glucosides and as valuable
valuableglucosides and Vitamin Vitamin B. B. as Flour-refining processes processes
too too often often deprive deprive the the cereal cereal of Flour-refining of its
husk germ, both husk and and germ, both of of which which contain contain these
these vital vital nutrinutriits tive elements. elements. It It is is for for this
this reason reason that that dieticians dieticians advocate advocate tive the
consumption consumption of of wholemeal wholemeal bread, bread, sprouted sprouted
wheat wheat and and Ihe whole rice. rice. whole CERVELAS -- Sausage Sausage made
made of pork meat of pork meat and pork fal, and pork fat, CERVELAS seasoned with
garlic. This with garlic. This type type of of charcuterie charcuterue is is so-
called so-called seasoned (cervelle), particularly because brains brains
(cervelle), particularly pigs' pigs' brains, brains, once once because formed part
part of of its its composition. composition. It is also It is also ca called
Saucisson formed lied Saucisson (see SAUCISSON, de Paris Paris (sec SAUCISSON,
Parisian Parisian saucisson). saucisson'\. de

CELLAR. CAVE cAVE -- Underground Underground room room with with or or without
without an an CELLAR. arched ceiling, ceiling, in in which which wine wine is is
kept. kept. A good cellar A good cellar must must be be arched (10" to cool (100 to
Ire., 12C.,50' to 54'F,), 54'F.), slightly slightly damp, damp, and and the the air
air cool 50° to must circulate circulate a a little. little. must Liqueur cellar.
cellar. CAVE c,c,vs À A LIQUEURS LreuEURs -- Chest, Chest, made made by by a a
Liqueur cabinet maker maker or goldsmith, used or goldsmith, used to to lock lock
up precious ftagons up precious flagons cabinet and sometimes sometimes liqueur
glasses. liqueur glasses. and CELLULOSE -- A A substance substance of of varying
varying degrees degrees of of hardhardCELLULOSE ness which which forms forms the
the tissue tissue of of vegetable vegetable matter. matter. ness
CENTRAL AMERICA AMERICA -- Sec See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKCOOKCENTRAL ERY,
American American cookery. cookery. ERY,

CHABICHOU -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHABICHOU

CHABISSOUS or or CABECOUS CABECOUS -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHABISSOUS

CHABLIS -- Town Town in in the the district district of of Yonne Yonne famous
famous for for its CHABLIS its (see WINE). white wines wines (see WINE). white
CHABOISSEAU Freshwater fish fish of of the the Couus Cottus family familv
CHABOISSEAU - Freshwaler which has has delicatc delicate flesh. flesh. which

CENTRAL EUROPE EUROPE Al\.'D AI\D THE THE BALKANS BALKANS See ININ- See CENTRAL
TERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. TERNATIONAL
CEPAGE Plant, variety variety of of vine. vine. French French vines, vines,
restocked restocked - Plant, CÉPAGE with American American vines, vines, have have
been grafted onto been grafted onto the ancient the ancient with vine stocks stocks
which which are are recognised recognised as as the the bcst best in in each each
region. region. vine The number of vine vine varieties varieties is is
considerable. considerable. Among Among the the The number of principal stocks
stocks there there are: are: principal In Bordeaux Bordeaux the the Cabernet
Cabernet franc, the Cabernet Cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon, In franc, the the
Merlot, the Malbec, and the the Venlot Verdot for the Mer/ol, the Ma/bec, and for
red rcd wines; wines; the the Sauvignon, the the Sémillon, Simillon, and and the
the Muscadel/e for white Sauvignon, Muscadelle for white wines. wines. In the Pinot
noir is ln Burgundy, Burgundy, the Pinot noir is the the principal principal wine
wine stock stock for for the the Chardonnay Chardonnay for for the same in the red
rcd wines; wines; the the white. white. The Tbe same in Champagne except noir is
Champagne except that that the the Pinot Pinot noir is made made into into white
white wine. Gamay excellence in wine. Gamay is is the the vine vine par par
excellence in Beaujolais. Beaujolais. It Tt is is also also grown grown all ail
over over central central France France and and in in the the west. west. The The
Syrah Syrah and and the the Viognier Viognier are are found found mainly mainly in
in the the northern northern C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne; Rhône; the the Grenache,
Grenache, Carignon, Carignon, Cinsault, Cinsalllt, Mourlv/ourvDdre, and Ugni are
the the vines vines common common to to vèdre, Clairette, Clairette, and Ugni blanc
blanc are the the south south of of France France and and the the southern southern
Cdtes Côtes du du Rh6ne. Rhône. In In Alsace Riesling, TramiAlsace the the
principal principal vines vines are are the the Sylvaner, Sylvaner, Riesling,
Traminer, gris (Tokay), ner, Pinot Pinot gris (Tokay), and and Muscat. Musem. The
The white white wines wines of of the the Loire Loire come come from from either
either the the Sauvignon Sauvignon (Pouilly-sur-Loire, (Pouilly-sur-Loire,
Sancerre, Sancerre, etc.), etc.), from from the the Chinin Chénin (Vouvray,
(Vouvray, Saumur, Saumur, Anjou), Anjou), or or from from the the Muscadet.
Muscadet. The The Jura Jura wines wines come come principally principally from from
the the pinot Pinot blanc blanc and and the the Poulsart; Poulsarl; the the Muscat
Muscat wines wines from from Roussillon Roussillon are arc derived and derived from
from the the Alicante; Alicame; the the Grenache, Grenache, the the Aramon, Aramon,
and the the Carigane Carigane are are the the vine vine stocks stocks with with a a
high high yield, yield, cultivated cultivated in in the the ddpartemenls
départements of of Aude, Aude, H6rault Hérault and and Gard. Gard. Among Among the
the notable notable vine vine stocks stocks producing producing table table wines
wines are are the the various variollS Chasselas, Chasselas, the the Muscats
Muscats (white (white and and red), red), the the Oeillade, Oeillade, etc. etc.

CHABOT -- Mediterranean Mediterranean fish fish which which locally locally is is

called called CHABOT 'scorpion', 'sea-devil', 'sea-devil', and 'toad', on and
'toad', account of on account of ilS its strange 'scorpion', strange appearance. It
It is is also 'tadpole' because of its also known as as 'tadpole' its large
appearance. head, and and'grumbler' and'sea-cock' of the rumbling 'grumbler' and
'sea-cock' because of head, sound it it makes makes when held in the hand. hand.
The ftesh flesh ofthis of this fish is sound delicate and and is is used in
bouillabaisse bouillabaisse and fish fish soups. soups. It should delicate used in
Il should not be be eaten eaten during Ihe the spawning season from November to not
May. In In France, France, chub are sometimes called chabot. May. CHAINGY See
CHEESE. CHEESE. CHAlNGY - See CHALK. CHAUX cHAUx - Calcium Calcium oxide, oxide,
found found in in various CHALK. various combinations and in different different
forms in binations and in organic tissue. Drinking water contains a proportion of
calcium salt water often con tains too high high a and is 'hard'. This and is
called called 'hard'. This water water prevents the the satisfactory cooking can
remove the calcium cooking of of vegetables. vegeta bles. One One can the ca lei um
salts from drinking water by decanting it it after prolonged prolonged boiling from
drinking and subsequent cooling, but aerated by and su bseq uent cooling, but it it
must must then thcn be be aerated beating. CHAMBERTIN CHAMBERTIN - Vineyard
Vineyard on the C6te Côte d'Or in the commune mune of of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gevrey-
Chambertin.
CHAMBORD CHAMBORD (A (A LA) LA) - Method of of preparing preparing large large
braised braised fish CARP, fish which which includes includes a a very very complex
complex garnish. garnish. (See (See CARp, C ar p C hambo r d ; G ARNISHES). Carp
Chambord; GARNISHES), CHAMBRER CHAMBRER "- Said of of wines wines that that are
brought brought up up from the the cellar hours before before they they are are due
due to to be be served, so so that thal cellar several several hours they room
temperature. temperature. All Ail red red they can can be be slowly slowly raised
raised to to room Bordeaux Bordeaux should should be be chambri. chambré. The The
expression expression goes goes back back to 10 a a time time when when the the
word word chambre almost any any room room in in the the house. house. The The
chambre could could apply apply to to almost pantry pantry was was the the chambre
chambre where where the the wine wine was was usually usually kept kept before
drunk. The The cold cold dishes dishes were were kept kepl in in the Ihe pantry
pantry before being being drunk. and and its its temperature temperature was was
therefore therefore not not very very high. high. Gastronomes Gastronomes are are
more more or or less less in in agreement agreement that that the the various be
served served at al the Ihe following following temtemvarious wines wines should
should be peratures: peratures: Dry Dry white white wines, wines, between bclween
5" 5 and and 8"C. 8e e. (41'and (41° and 46"F.) 46°F.) Dessert Dessert white white
wines, wines, between between 2 200 and and 5'C. 5°e. (36" (36° and and 4l'F.) 41
"F.) Rose 8° and and 10"C. 10 0 e. (46'and (46 0 and 50.F.) 50°F) Rosé wines,
wines, between between 8o Light Light red red wines, wines, between between l0o 10°
and and 12'C. 12°e. (50' (50° and and 53.F.) 53°F.) The The great great Burgundies,
Burgundies, between betwecn l5o 15" and and 17"C. Ire. (59. (59 and and 63'F.)
63°F.) The The great great Bordeaux, Bordeaux, between betwecn 16'and 16° and l8'C.
18°e. (61" (61 0 and and 64'F.) 64°F.) It lt is is also also a a question question
of of taste. tas te. A A connoisseur connoisseur who who wishes wishes to Burgundy
at at l8'C. 18°e. (64"F.) (64°F) and and his his Bordeaux Bordeaux at at to have
have his his Burgundy
C
0

Ctpn CÈPE -

Recipes Recipes will will be be found found under under MUSHROOM. MUSHROOM.

French French name name for for boletus boletus or or edible edible mushroom.
mushroom.

CEREALS. CEREALS. crn6,trrs CÉRÉALES - Farinaceous Farinaceolls foodstuffs

foodstuffs which which are are the the basis basis of of human hu man diet. d iet.
Oats, Oats, wheat, wheat, maize, maize, millet, millet, barley, barley, rice, rice,
rye rye and and Indian Indian millet millet are are the the gramineous gramineous
crops; crops; only only buckwheat buckwheat belongs belongs to group. All Ali
cereals cereals can can be be made made into into to the the polygonaceous
polygonaceous group. bread, bread, but bul wheat wheat and and rye rye are are
particularly parlicularly suitable suilable for for this this purpose. purpose.
Cereals Cereals are are indispensable indispensable elements elements of of man's
man's diet, diet, propro198 198
CHAMPAGNE
20'C. 20 e (68"F.) (68°F.) does not have have to uncork uncork the bottles and
leave them in the dining-room, as he would have bave done in the old days. central
heating, our dining-rooms have a a temdays. With central perature 24"C. (75'F.).
peralure often as as high as as 22'C. noe (71"F.) (71°F.) or 24°e (75°F.). It Il is
therefore necessary necessary to 10 gauge the proper proper rate of temperature-
raising ture-raising to avoid avoid offering offenng guests overheated overheated
wine. wine. The process process must must be be slow. slow. A A bottle bottle of
wine wine should should never be be plunged into hot hot water or left near near a
fire or radiator radiator to hasten hasten
0

the process. process.

CHAMOIS - Wild Wlid mammal, mammal, bearing bearing some resemblance resemblance to
the goat, goal, found found in i.n the high Alps and in the Pyrenees, Pyrenees,
where where it it is called ealled Isard. Isard. Chamois meat is considered
considered excellent venison, especially especially when wben the animal is young.
young. It It is tS tougher lougher when the chamois chamois is older, and should be
he properly marinated marinated before before cooking. cooking. It It is is
prepared prepared in the same way as roebuck roebuck (q.v.).
CHAMPAGNE CHAlVlPAGNE - This This province, province, which which comprises
comprises approxiapproximately malely the four dipartements départements of Marne,
Ardennes, HauteHaute-

Marne and Aube, Aube, has a world-wide reputation reputation for its great great
sparkling sparkling white wines. wines. The The cooking cooking in the province
province is rather ralher limited limited but excellent. excellent. The The local
local charcuterie is is in in the the first first rank rank of gastronomic
gastronomie specialities, especially the the delicious deiicious andouilleues
andouillettes of Barsur-Aube sur-Aube and and Bar-sur-Seine; the the andouillettes
andouillelles de de mouton mouton and the langues langues fourries fourrées of of
Troyes; Troyes; the the famouspigJ' famous pigs' trotters IrOllerS d à la la
Sainte-Menehould: Sainte-Menehould; Reims Reims hams hams and and knuckles:
knuckles; and many other dishes. Meat, particularly parlicularly mutton, is good,
and poultry pouJtry is fairly good. good. Fruit fruit and and vegetables vegetables
are are excellent. Freshwater freshwater fish include trout, trout, carp, carp,
pike pike and and salmon. salmon. Good Good furred furred and feathered game game
is to be be found, and the the Ardennes thrushes thrushes are especially prized
prized by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. Culinary Culinary specialities
specililities - Among the dishes of Champagne Champagne are matelotes matelotes
(q.v.), (g.v.), using using champagne champagne; la potCe potée champenoise;
champenoise; ; la quartier de de mouton d à la la champenoise; champenoise; boudin
de de lapin d à la Sainte-Menehould; thrushes th rushes d à I'ardennaise,
l'ardennaise, poulet poulet d à la peau peau de goret; goret; gougire gougère de
I'Aube; l'Aube; salade dc de pissenlit pissenlit an au lard; and,

Vineyards

"

d I'Ardennaisc

-t 3%?*11i!ffi,:" !" Thrush \sr*ht"^ , i\tb, 'i,i"ill"",i \$ro":*xafli^',iqi"" \-*

U M l uM {ic r / a i
rvlitelote
Aisne
Ham. Fish

saveloy,\

^,y

Young.wild. boar

Pdti

lo Petite Momon, sheep's trorrers, Marzipans.

de

'\ustr {ii
'.,'--t'n- Krrsctr \ M ; e / \ lJFlonent \
l,_.!

Biscuits, Gingerbread. Dorioles,

tt#it3*l*fH;ffi:;* z t!ffiffi:7n\?'1r'"#,:p. ':ilj" H :,

{^*X"\...ff'u'o'4fl\RNi\.:'.',i"ffi,"0.#o}0, ) de\ lfi_Ss.;{ ,A,b

ir'i

Couques

%t|jEIMS 2^

,,_-, ^__-^_l]

..

nd

siliil; ;;, \/]\r v .."'\z btoncu.:', ,:V..;;#iJ'i"=';ro *s.,.i,"

ilN-E;:- ETmase

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199 199

Gastronomic Champagne GAstronomie map map of o[Champagne

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE

Grape harvest harvest in in Champagne ( Inurent-perrier) Champagre (Laurent-

Perrier) Grape

as a a sweet, sweet, beignets beignets au au fromage blanc. blanc. as Vineyards The

cellars cellars of of Champagne Champagne are are famous. famous. One One - The
Vineyards single wine wine embellishes embellishes them them Champagne. single -
Champagne. The vine-growing vine-growing district district of of Champagne
Champagne is is divided divided into into The great regions: three great regions:
three Montagne de de Reims. Reims. South South of of Reims, Reims, of prinof which
which the the prinMontagne cipal vineyards vineyards are are ViJliers-Marmery,
Villiers-Marmery, Verzy, Yerzy, Verzenay, Verzenay, cipal Beaumont-sur-Vesle,
Mailly, Mailly, Sillery, Sillery, Puisieulx, Puisieulx, Ludes, Beaumont-sur-Vesle,
Rilly-la-Montagne, Chigny, Trois-Puits, Trois-Puits, Montbré, Montbr6,
VillersVillersRilly-la-Montagne, Chigny, Allerand, Sermiers, Charmery, Charmery,
Ecueil, Ecueil, Sacy, Villedomange, Villedomange, Allerand, Sermiers, Jouy, Linked
with the Montagne Montagne de de Reims Reims is is the Jouy, Vrigny. Vrigny. Linked
with the Petite of Hermonville, Hermonville, SaintSaintPetite Montagne Montagne
with with the the vineyards vineyards of Thierry, Trigny Trigny and and the Côte
C6te de de Bouzy Boury with the Thierry, and P6vy; Pévy; and vineyards Tr6pail,
Louvois, Tauxidres, Ambonnay and Ambonnay and vineyards of of Trépail, Louvois,
Tauxières, Bouzy. Bouzy. Vallie are: Ay, Vallée de de la la Marne. Marne. Its Its
principal principal vineyards vineyards are: Mareuil-sur-Ay, Dizy, Cumières,
Cumidres, HautMareuil-sur-Ay, Mutigny, Mutigny, Avenay, Avenay, Dizy, villiers,
villiers, Damery, Damery, Tours, Tours, Bisseuil, Bisseuil, Venteuil, Venteuil,
Fleury-laFleury-IaRividre, on the Rivière, Reuil, Reuil, Vandidres, Vandières,
Verneuil, Verneuil, and and Vincelles on right right bank; bank; Nardeuil,
Nardeuil, Boursault, Boursault, Leuvrigny, Leuvrigny, Festigny, Troissy, Troissy,
and and Dormans Dormans on on the the left left bank; bank; Epernay, pierry,
Pierry, Moussy, Moussy, Vinay, Vinay, and and Saint-Martin Saint-Martin on the the
C6te Côte d'Epernay. d'Epernay. C6te Côte des des blancs. blancs. South-east South-
east of of Epernay Epernay of of which which the principal Avize, Grauves,
principal vineyards vineyards are: are: Cuis, Cuis, Cramant, Cramant, Avize,
Grauves, Oger, Oger, I€ Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Vertus, Vertus,
BergdresJes-Vertus, Bergères-les-Vertus, Mancy, Mancy, Oiry, Oiry, Monthelon.
Monthelon. The The wine wine of of Champagne Champagne - Apart Apart from from the
the 'still' 'still' white white and and red red wines wines which which are are
called called nature nature wines, wines, Champagne Champagne wine wine must must
be be made made effervescent effervescent according according to to the the so-
called so-called Mithode Méthode champenoise champenoise with with the the second
second fermentation fermentation taking taking place place in in the the bottle.
bottle. This This method method (perfected (perfected by by Dom Dom p6rigPérignon)
non) comprises comprises a a series series of of processes processes that that can
cao be be summarised summarised as as follows: follows: 1. 1. Usual Usual alcoholic
alcoholic fermentation fennentation followed followed by by all ail the the
processes processes employed employed in in the the production production of of
white white wine. wine. (It (lt should should be be remembered remembered that that
in in Champagne Champagne the the black black grapes grapes are are used used en en
blanc blanc which which means means that that only only the the juice juice of of
the the grape grape is is fermented.) fermented.) 2. 2. Constitution Constitution
of of the the cuvie cuvée (or (or special special blend) blend) by by comcombining
wines selected biningwines selected from from aa variety variety of ofChampagne
Champagne growths. growths. 200 200

Montmort

e
Scale

5 10 kilometres

Mapof ofChampagne Champagne vineyards vineyards Map

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE
Champagne Champagne production production

Modern bottling plant

(Yt,on)

Fermentation chambers ( Laurent- Pe rrier)

'Champagnisation' 'ChampagnisaI ion' in cellars in the the cellars (Lawent Perrier)

(Laurenr Perrier)

Extraction of cork olsediment-coated sediment-coatedcork Extraction (Laurent-

Perrier\ (Laurent-Perrier)

Sublerranean etChandon Chandon cellarMoël Mo€tet Champa-ene cellar

SubterraneanChampagne (Moël Chandon) (Modtel Chandonl et

Modernequipment forlabelling bottles equipmentfor labellingboltles Modern

( Delavaud \ (Delavaud)

201
CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE
CHANTERELLE (Cantharellus (Cantharellus cibarius) cibarius) - - Edible
EdiblemushmushCHANTERELLE room,also also known known in in France France as
girolle. (See (SeeMUSHasgirolle. MUSHroom, ROOMS.) ROOMS.) CHANTILLY -- Name given
to Name given to fresh fresh cream cream beaten beatento tothe CHANTILLY the
consistency of of aa mousse, mousse, sweetened sweetenedand and flavoured flavoured
with with consistency vanilla or or other other flavours. flavours. ft It can can
also also mean mean aahollandaise hollandaise vanilla sauceto to which whichwhipped
whipped cream cream has has been added; also been added; sauce also aacold cold
saucecomposed composed of of mayonnaise mayonnaise and and whipped whipped cream.
cream.These These sauce last two twosauces sauces are are also also known known
under under the the name name of ofmousseline. mousseline. last The name name can
can be be applied applied to to various various preparations preparations and
pastry The and pastry (See CHICKEN, confections. (See CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken àd
la la chantilly; confections. chantillv: CHARLOTTE, Charlolle Charlotte à Ia
chantilly.) d la chantilly.) CHARLOTTE,
Old champagne champagne bottles bottles Old

jaw, or CHAP. BAJOUE BAJoUE -- The The lower lower jaw, (especially or half half
cheek cheek(especially CHAP. pig). of pig). of
CHAPELER -- The The preparation preparation of of breadcrumbs breadcrumbs by drying
CHAPELER by drying them in in the the oyen oven and and sieving sieving them. them.
In In the grilled the old old days them days grilled bread was was called pain
cappelé. called pain (See BREADCRUMBS.) cappeli. (See BREADCRUMBS.) bread
(Mediterranean cookery) CHAPON (Mediterranean cookery) -- Slice Slice of CHAPON
French of French rubbed with garlic and bread rubbed with garlic and seasoned
seasoned with with oil oil and and vinegar. vinegar. bread In the the south south
of of France, France, and and especially especially in in Languedoc, Languedoc,
bread In bread treated in in this this way way is is added added to to salads,
salads, especially especially to treated to chicory chicory salad. salado CHAR or
or CHARR. CHARR. OMBLE oMBLE CHEV cHEvALTER Fish of of the CHAR ALlER -- Fish the
salmon salmon genus, found found in in the the deep deep lakes lakes and and rivers
rivers of genus, of Switzerland, Switzerland, Savoy and and Auvergne. Auvergne. It
It resembles resembles trou trout, Savoy t, but but has has finer finer scales
scales and teeth; teeth; and and black black spots spots on on the the sides. The
flesh sides. The and flesh is is very verv delicate. lt It is prepared like is
prepared like Salmon (see TROUT). Salmon trout trout (see delicate. TROUT).

3. After After a a 'dosage' 'dosage' of of cane cane sugar, poured into sugar, the
the wine wine is is poured into 3. hermetically sealed sealed bottles. The sugar
bottles. The provokes a sugar provokes a second second hermetically fermentation by
releasing carbonic by releasing carbonic acid gas; this acid gas; this is is called
called fermentation prise de (sparkling process). the prise de mousse mousse
(sparkling process). the 4. Working Working of of the the deposit. deposit. The The
bottles placed on bottles are are placed on 4. (each bottle wooden frames frames
(each bottle having having a a cage cage of its own) own) and of its and wooden
slowly raised raised from from a a horizontal horizontal to to a position, to a
vertical vertical position, to slowly enable the the deposit deposit left left by
fermentation to by fermentation to slide slide down down enable towards the the
cork. cork. towards 5. Disgorging. Disgorging. Removal Removal of of the the
deposit. deposit. 5. 6. Topping Topping up up the 'liqueur'after the bottles
bottles with with a a 'liqueur' the deposit deposit 6. after the has been removed.
This been removed. This liqueur liqueur consists consists of of cane cane sugar
sugar solusoluhas tion of of varying varying strengths, strengths, depending
depending on on whether whether the the client client tio'1 requires an an extra
extra dry, dry, dry, dry, demi-sec demi-sec or or sweet sweet Champagne. Champagne.
requires 7. Cellarage. C,ellarage. The The bottles are matured matured for bottles
are period which for a a period 7. varies according according to to whether whether
the the wine wine is is vintage vintage or or nonnonvaries vintage. vintage. (Fine)
CHAMPAGITIE (Fine) given to Name given to certain certain brandies - Name CHAMPAGNE
made the Charentes Charentes area. area. The The famous famous name given to name
given to the made in in the locality produces these which produces famous brandies
is due, it is due, it is locality which these famous brandies is said, to a
resemblance between the soil and and the the chalky chalky subsubsaid, to a
resembJance between the soil soil with with that of the Champagne region region of
soil that of the Champagne of north-west north-west (See CHARENTE, France.
CHARENTE, Eaux-de-vie.) Eaux-de-vie.) France. (See CHAMPAGNISER To produce quality
or sparkling quality CHAMPAGNISER - To produce the the sparkling to to treat treat
wines wines according according to to the the Champagne Champagne method. method.
CHAMPIGNY CHAMPIGNY (Pashy) (Pastry) - Use Use puff puff pastry pastry Qtdte (pâte
feuilletie) feuilletée) which which has has been been rolled rolled out out six six
times times (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Roll Roll it it out out to to a a thickness
thickness of of not not more more than than 3 3 mm. mm. (* (t inch) inch) in in a a
square square shape. shape. Fill Fil! the the centre centre with with a a layer
layer of of apricot apricot jam jam flavoured with and containing containing a a
few few apricot apricot kernels. kernels. with a a little little kirsch kirsch and
Moisten Moisten the the edge edge of of the the pastry, pastry, cover coyer with
with a a layer layer of of pastry pastry I1 cm. cm. (* (t inch) inch) thick, thick,
and and seal seal the the edges, edges, indenting indenting them with with a To
prevent prevent the the jam jam from from seeping seeping out out during during the
the a fork. fork. To baking, baking, press press a a ribbon ribbon of of pastry
pastry round round the the edges. edges. Brush Brush with and bake bake in in a a
moderate moderate oven oyen for for 25 to to 30 30 with beaten beaten egg egg and
minutes. glaze. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with icing icing sugar sugar and
and glaze. CHAMPOREAU CHAMPOREAU - Black Black coffee coffee with with the the
addition addition of of eaueaude-vie, Cognac, Armagnac, Armagnac, rum rum or or
kirsch. kirsch. In In slang slang lanlande-vie, Cognac, guage champoreau. guage one
one says/aire says faire champoreau. CHANFAINA CHANFAINA (Spanish (Spanish cookery)
cookery) - Cook Cook a a lamb's lamb's or or pig's pig's liver Fry 2 2 large large
chopped chopped onions onions in in oil. oil. When When liver in in salt salt
water. water. Fry almost almost cooked, cooked, add add diced diced pimentos,
pimentos, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, and and chopped chopped fresh fresh
mint. mint. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, cinnamon, cinnamon,
and and cumin, cumin, and and cook cook for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Add
Add the the cooked cooked liver, liver, cut cut up up into into large large dice.
dice. Cook Cook on on a a fairly fairly strong strong heat heat for for a a few few
minutes. minutes. Add Add a a few of the the liquor liquor in in which which the
the liver liver has has been been few tablespoons tablespoons of cooked. quantity
of of breadbreadcooked. Boil Boil for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Add Add a a small
small quantity crumbs water in in the the manner manner of of a a bread bread
panada panada crumbs cooked cooked in in water (q.v.) (q.v.) to to bind bind the
the sauce. sauce. Season Season highly. highly.
202 202

(Pork butcbery) CHARCUTERIE (Pork butchery) The art CHARCUTERIE art of preparing of
preparing - The (especially pork) meats (especially pork) in in order to present
them them in in various various ways. 'The pig, pig, whose whose meat meat prepared
prepared by pork butchers 'The by pork butchers is is the delight of of gourmets,
was was despised despised by delight by the the Egyptians, Egyptians, and and Moses
included included it it among the the impure impure meats Moses meats which which
he he forforbade the the Hebrews Hebrews to eat. bade

Inside Inside a a pork pork butcher's butcher's shop shop (rrfrcolas) (Nicolas)

'The 'The Greeks Greeks raised raised the the status status of ofthe the animal
animal so so far far as as to to make make

it it the the favourite favourite victim victim in in sacrifices sacrifices offered

offered to to the the gods. gods. They They
also also used used pork pork fat fat in in cooking. cooking. The The Romans Romans
probably probably learned learned

how how to to prepare prepare pork pork from from them. them. The The Roman Roman
porcella parcella law law determined determined the the manner manner of of
raising, raising, feeding, feeding, killing killing and and
CHARCUTERIE CHARCUTERIE

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it

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t*

charcuterie products: Some charcuterie Sorne Products : Liver Filet deSaxe; Saxe;9'
gras sausage; sausage;8. pudding;7. Foie gras Black pudding; deTours;6. paris harn;
5. Rillon Rilion deTours; rillettes; 5. Pain de de rillettes; 1. 2. Rolled
shoulder; 3. Galantine head; 4. Pain 6. Black 7. Foie 8. Filetde 9. Liver
ofboar'shead;4. Galantine ofboar's l. Paris ham;2. shoulder;3.
grasgalantine(Larousse) foie gras galantine; 14. Truffied foie poultry galantine;
14. Truffled Truffied poultry 13. Truffled Brawn; 13. pâté; galantine (Larousse)
12. Brawn; galantine; 12. Poultry galantine; galantine; II. ll. Poultry pit6; 10.
Rabbit galantine; 10. Rabbit

meat preparing Pork meat pork butchery. butchery. Pork pigs, and preparing pigs,
and controlled controlled pork was the Roman Roman of the in the the time time of
ways in prepared in in several several ways was prepared empire, and spices and it
with salt, salt, spiœs mixing it by mixing was preserved by empire, and was
aromatics. Mortadellas, salamis and specialiall the ltalian specialiand ail the
Italian ties time, at that that time, names at other names probably made made under
under other were probably ties were

today. are made made today. as they they are way as same way less in in the the
same more or or less but more but udder and the the udder uterus and were the the
uterus appreciated were Particularly appreciated Particularly and of smalI small
and Varieties of to breed. breed. Varieties began to animal began the animal before
the before and tomacula, and tobelli, tomacula, called large sa sausages large
usages ca lied farcimina, farcimina, tobelli, tables. Roman tables. on Roman
appeared on also appeared tomacina also tomacina

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More products: charcuterie Morecharcuterie Products : pie; Bayonne pAt6; meat Small
ham 1.l.Rolled harn; 2. Knuckle of harn; 3. Rolled haro; 4. Trotters Sainte-
Menehoud; 5. Parisian pâté; 6. 6. Veal and barn pâté; 7. 7. Smalt rneat pie; 8. 8.
Bayonne pit6; veal and Rolledsmoked smoked ham; 2. Knuckle of ham; 3. Rolled ham;4.
Trotters Sainte-Menehoud; 5. Parisian knuckle ofharn (Larousse) (I-arousse) knuckle
of ham

203 203
CHARD CHARD
'This art preserved during of charcuterie charcuterue was art of was preserved
during the Middle the Middle 'This Ages in in France, France, but bttthe mdtier
ofpork butchery was was for of pork butchery for aalong long the me'tier Ages time
confused confused with with that that of cuisinier-oyer which, of cuisinier-oyer
which, in in the the time fourteenth century, century, comprised comprised two two
categories: categories: that that of of the the fourteenth chaircutiers and
(roasting chefs). and that that of of the the rostisseurs rostisseurs (roasting
chefs). In In chaircutiers 1476, the the chaircutiers chaircutiers obtained pork
obtained the monopoly of the monopoly of selling selling pork 1476, meat, cooked
(only fat cooked or pork in or raw raw (only fat pork in the latter case), the
latter case), but but they they meat, were not not allowed allowed to pigs
themselves to kill kill the the pigs themselves and and had had to to buy buy were
pork meat meat from from the butcher. the butcher. pork 'The statutes statutes of
of 17 l7 January January 1475 1475 recognised recognised the sole rights the sole
rights 'The of the the chaircutiers-saucissiers chaircutiers-saucissiers boudiniers
boudiniers to pork meat to sell sell pork meat of prepared in either cooked cooked
or or prepared in the the form form of of cervelas, cervelas, sausages, sausages,
either (U.S. blood) black (U.S. puddings etc.' (Franklin). ln blood) puddings etc.'
(Franklin). In the the sixteenth sixteenth black century they they finally finally
obtained obtained the the right right to pigs themto kill kill the the pigs
themcentury selves. An An order order of of 26 26 March March 1664 1664 forced
forced them them to to buy buy their their selves. pigs at at a a distance distance
of of 21 2l leagues leagues from from Paris, Paris, a a decree decree which which
pigs has not not been been in in force foroe since since the creation of the
creation ofthe stockvards in in the stockyards has the city city itself. itself.
the jambons (ham All Parisians Parisians know know the (ham the famous famous foire
aux jambons Ali foire aux fair) which is is he held on the the boulevard Richard-
Lenoir Richard-Lenoir before before fair) Id on Holy Week. Week. The The !ittle
little stalls stalls are are laden laden for for days days with with ail all the
the Holy charcuterie specialities specialities from from the provinces, and the
French French provinces, and charcuterie even from from abroad. abroad. Auvergne
Auvergne and and Lorraine Lorraine dominate dominate with with even their
concentration concentration of of sausages, puddings, pâtés, p&tis, etc. sausages,
hams, hamso puddings, etc. their This fair fair dates dates from from the remote
past, past, and the remote and is is said said to to have have This in front front
of begun in Notre-Dame. of Notre-Dame. begun Dietetically speaking, speaking,
opinion opinion is is divided divided about about charcharDietetically cuterie.
Sorne Some things rillettes, brawn, things brawn, andouilles, andouilles, black
cuterie. black - rillettes, pudding, etc. etc. are inclined inclined to to be
indigestible, and be indigestible, and even pudding, even - are poor quality. On
toxic if if of po On the the other other hand, hand, lean lean charcuterie
charcuterie or quality. toxic cooked or raw ham, as cooked ham, dried dried
sausage, sausage, etc. etc. have definite have definite such as nutritional value.
value. The virtue of charcuterie charcutene is is that nutritional that it it
excites excites the appetite since since the the spices spices that that it it
contains contains encourage the encourage the the juices. It secretion of saliva
and gastric gastric juices. It has no no harmful harmful effects secretion effects
if eaten in in moderation. moderation. if 'Grandechampagne champagneincludes
includesthe thewhole whole of ofthe thecanton cantonof 'Grande of part of
Segonzac,and andpart of the the Cognac Cognaccanton canton south Segonzac, southof
the of the Charente river. river. Charente 'The brandy brandy of ofthis thisregion
regionis prototype of isthe theprototype 'The ofthe thebrandies brandies of
Charente; Charente; it it is ischaracterised characterised by verydelicate
delicatearoma, of byaavery aroma, recalling the gentle perfume perfume of the
gentle of the vine in recalling thevine inftower, flower, and andby byaa vigorous
and and full full savour savourwhich which creates prolonged and vigorous creates
prolonged and pleasurable sensations sensations when whentasted. tasted. This
Thisbrandy pleasurable brandy is iswarm warm without burning palate, and burning
the the palate, andits without itscolour, ifitit has colour,if agedin hasaged in an
ideal ideal situation, palegold. situation, is isaavery very pale gold. an 'Petite
champagne champagne encloses encloses the 'Petite theGrande Grande champagne
champagnein inaa half-circle.It It is is bounded bounded on half-circle. on the the
north north by bythe thecourse course of ofthe the Charente, between between Mosnac
Mosnac and andMerpins; Charente, Merpins; to to the the east east by byaa line
running running from from Mosnac !ine Mosnac to to Barbezieux; Barbezieux; on onthe
thesouth southby by the road road running running from from Barbezieux the
Barbezieux to toJonzac; Jonzac; and andon on the the west by by the the course
course of west of the the river river Seugne, Seugne,from from Jonzac Jonzac to to
Beillant. Beillant. 'The brandies brandies of 'The of this this region, region,
without great without having having the thegreat finesse of of those finesse those
of of Grande Grande champagne, champagne,approach approach them toaa them to
certain degree, particularly in degree, particularly certain in the the bordering
bordering vineyards. vineyards. 'The Borderies, 'The Borderies, as as the the name
name implies, implies, form form aaseries of !ittle little series of hills hills
along along the the banks banks of of the the Charente, from Cognac Charente, from
Cognac to to Chérac, and stretch Ch6rac, and stretch northwards northwards as as
far far as as the the heights heightsof of Saint-Sulpice and Menac. Menac. This
This borders Saint-Sulpice and plain of thevast vast plain borders on on the of the
the Pays-Bas. Pays-Bas. 'The Borderies produce good 'The Borderies produce good
brandies brandies with with aroma, aroma, aa certain certain finesse finesse and
and a a full full body. body. They They are are less less mellow mellow than than
the the Champagne Champagne brandies, brandies, but but have have more more body.
body. The The Fin-bois Fin-bois and and Bons-bois Bons-bois surround preceding
surround the the three three preceding areas pentagon whose areas in in the the
form form of of a a pentagon whose upper angle touches upper angle touches Saint-
Jean-d'Angély, Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly, and and whose whose limits limits are are tbe
the road road from from Saint-Jean-d'Angély Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly to to Angoulême;
Angoul6me; the the line line of of the railroad the railroad from Angoul€me to from
Angoulême to Chalais; Chalais; a a !ine line drawn drawn from from Chalais Chalais
to to Montendre; Montendre; the the road road from from Montendre Montendre to to
Saujon; Saujon; and and aa line line running running from from Saujon Saujon to to
Saint-Jean-d'Angély. Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly. 'The 'The Bois Bois brandies a smooth
quality, but brandies have have a smooth quality, but compared compared with with
those those of of Champagne Champagne they they are are soft, soft, with with less
less finesse, finesse, and pleasures to and offer offer briefer palate. briefer
pleasures to the the palate. 'All 'All the the other other vineyards vineyards of
of Charente and the proCharente and the islands islands produce (From duce ordinary
ordinary brandies, brandies, but but worthy worthy of imbibing.' (From of
imbibing.' les gastronomiques by les Dissertations Dissertations gastronomiques by
Ernest Ernest Verdier.) Verdier.) Not Not only must the the brandies only must
brandies of of the the Charente Charente area area come come from from the areas
defined the areas defined in in the the accompanying in order accompanying map map
in order to to have the the right right to a Cognac label, but to a Cognac label,
the wines wines on which but the on which they they are are based must derive
derive from based must from the the following following vine-stocks: vine-stocks:
Sémillon, S6millon, Folle-blanche, Colombac, Colombac, Blanc Blanc rainé, rain6,
Jurançon Jurangon blanc, blanc, Montils Montils and and Sauvignon. Sauvignon.
CHARLEMAGNE Y. (Saint) CHARLEMAGI{E (Saint) See FESTIVE FESTIVE COOKER COOKERY. -
See

Chard

Charlolle Charlotte mould mould (Dehillerin. (Dehillerin. Phot. Phot. Larousse)

Iarousse)

CHARD. CHARD.
(See BEETCARDE - Old Old name for for white beet. beet. (See cARDE

ROOT.)

CHARENTE - Name famous for its magnificent magnificent brandies CHARENTE known as
Cognac. Cognac. They are made from the wines produced known in the the dCpartemenr
département of Charente-Maritime. Charente-Maritime. in Eaux-de-vie of Charente.
Charente. EAUx-DE-vrE EAUX-DE-VIE DEs DES cHARENTEs CHARENTES Eauxde-vie The
general general classification classification of the the wines wines of the the
Charente The region is is arranged arranged in in the the following following
order: order: region Grande champagne, champagne, Petite Petite champagne,
Borderies, FinsGrande bois, Bons-bois, Bons-bois, Bois Bois ordinaires, ordinaires,
and and Bois du terroir. bois,
204 2M

- Two CHARLOTTE Two kinds kinds of of dessert dessert are are known known by the by
the name of charlotte. charlotte. One, One, charlotte aharlotte russe, prepared
with russe, is is prepared with (q.v.) which Bavarian cream creiln (q.v.) which is
plain mould is set set in in a a plain mould lined lined round the side the bottom
side and and at at the bottom with with sponge sponge fingers, fingers, and and
served cold. cold. The other, fruit fruit charlotte served The other, (and
particularly particularly charlotte (and
CHARTREUSE CHARTREUSE
apple applecharlotte,whichseems charloue, which seemsto to have havebeen beeo the
thefirst first of ofits itskind) kind) is is made made with wilh a a confection
confection of offruit fruit in in a a mould mould lined lined with with thin thin
slices slices of of buttered butlered bread, bread, usually usually served served
hot' hot. Car€me Carême invented invented the the charlotte char/olte russe russe
at at his his own own establishestablishment ment in in Paris. Paris.

COLD CHARLOTTES FRoIDES FROIDES COLD CHARLOTTES. CHARLOTTES. cnlnrorrEs Charlotte

Charlotte I à la la Chantilly Chantilly - Use Use a a straight-sided straight-sided
mould. mould.

Cut Cut several several sponge sponge fingers fingers into into triangles triangles
and and line line the the bottom bottom of of the the mould mould in in a a rosette
rosette formation formation with with a a sponge sponge finger finger cut eut into
ioto a a circle circle in in the the centre. centre, Trim Trim the the ends ends
and and sides sides of of more more sponge sponge fingers fingers and and set set
them them in in the the mould, mould, upright, upright, well weil pressed pressed
together together one one against against the the other. other. Whisk Whisk 6 6 dl.
dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2] cups) cups) thick thick fresh fresh cream cream (kept on
on ice ice or or in in a a cold cold place until the the moment moment of of
beating). The cream cream must must be be so 50 firm that that it it has has the
the consistency consistency of whisked whisked egg whites. whites. Mix 125 g.(4I g.
(4~ oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar with with the cream cream and and
I1 Mix 125 tablespoon tablespoon vanilla vanilla sugar sugar or or a a few few
drops drops vanilla vanilla extract. extract. Spoon the the cream cream into into
the the mould, mould, and and turn out at at once. once. à la la parisienne
parisienne (Car€me's (Carême's recipe) recipe) - 'Take 'Take 175 175 g. g.
Charlotte I (6 oz.) sponge fingers fingers which which are frosted frosted on one
side, and and a a packet packet of green green pistachio pistachio biscuits.
biscuits. Cut the the latter latter into into thin thin ilices slices and and then
then into ioto diamond shapes, 3* 3t cm. cm. (1 inches) inches) long. long. Make
Make a double double star star with them them in the the bottom bottom of a plain
plain octagonal mould. Then, Then, using the the sponge fingers cut eut into
inte ,suitable suitable shapes, fill fi1l the bottom of the mould. mou Id, With
With the the rest rest sides of line the the sides of the the mould; mould,'
setting seUÎng of the sponge fingers line them upright and close close together.
Take Take care care to to place place the the frosted fresled side against the
mould. (see 'Fill the 'Fill the charlotte charlotte with wîlh Vanilla VaniIJa
Bavarian Bavarian ueam cream (see and cover the BAVARIAN BA VARIAN CREAM) and the
cream with with sponge sponge minutes later 40 minutes and 40 Surround it with
broken fingers. Surround broken ice, ice, and tater fingers. a silver dish.' it out
onto a turn il way as as same way in the the same plombidres - Prepared Prepared in
Charlotte plombières Charlotte filling of of (see below), a filling with a
charlotte (see Vanilla ice cream char/olle Vanilla Îce cream below), with (see ICE
ICES)' AND ICES), ICE CREAM CREAM AND ueam (see ice cream Plombiires Plombières Îce
with sponge sponge a mould mould with nrss€ Charlotte russe - Line the bottom of a
with sponge sponge sides wllh hearts, form of he cut into the fonn fingers eut
arts, and the sides sides. and sides. ends and at the the ends trimmed at have been
been trimmed which have fingers which fingcrs mould, pressed of the the mould,
inside of round lhe the inside these upright round Place these (l inch) above cm.
(1 2l cm. projecting a about well together, together, and projecting weJl bout 2t
top. the top, the (q.v.). Place in the Place in the crecan (q.v.). Bavarian cream
with Bavarian charlotte with Fill the the charlotte Fil! out. turned out. to be be
turned until ready 10 refrigerator untiJ difcream of of difBavarian cream with
B(lvarian filled with can be fillee! russecan Charlotte russe flavours. ferent
flavours. ferent ,c, LA rA' crlc6n À cHARLorrE GLACÉE charlotte. CHARLOTTE cream
charlotte. ice cream Vanilla ice Vanilla as fingers as sponge fingers with sponge
mould wlth charlotte mould the charlotte Line the vANILLE -- Line VANILLE in the
the preceding recipe. described in described with a a ice or or with vanilla ice
with vanilla before serving fill the mould with Just before Just ICES). (see TCE
AND TCES). ICE CREAM CREAM AND a Bombe (see filling for for a vanilla filling
vanilla flavourings various flavourings of various ice cream cream of with ice
filled with Iced charlottes charlottes fil!ed lced way. prepared in same way. in
the the same can be be prepared can

(l|

lotte before turning turning it il out, out, so so that thal the the lotte for for
a a few few minutes before apple settles. Serve with apricot sauce. sauce. pears,
Charlottes can cao be be prepared in in the the same same way way with with
quinces, quinces, apricots, apricots, peaches, peaches, plums. plu ms. The The
consistency consistency of the the fruit fruit must must be be kept kept very very
stiff; stilf; if if too too liquid, Iiquid, it it would would soften sonen turned
when disintegrate would the the bread bread and and the the dessert dessert wou Id
disintegrate when turned out out of of the the mould. mould, Charlottes Charlottes
can can also also be he filled filled with with a a fruit fruit filling fiHing and
and with with (see French French pastry paslry crecon cream or or with with
Frangipane Frangipane pastry paslry cream cream (sec CREAM). CREAM). Schaleth
Schaleth d à la lajuive juive is is also also a a kind kind of of charlotte.
charlotte. Line Line a a castcastcooked fill with paste, and noodle with cocotte
iron lIOn cocolte witb noodle paste, and fill with cooked apple, apple, sultanas,
sultanas, currants currants and and raisins. raisins. Moisten Moisten with with
Malaga Malaga wine, wine, and and bind bind with with eggs. eggs. (See (See
SCHALETH') SCHALETH.) RIz AU DE PoMMES Apple Apple charlotte charlotte with with
rice. riee. cHARLorrE CHARLOTTE DE POMMES AU RIZ Sprinkle Sprinkle a a thickly
thickly buttered buttered charlotte charlotte mould mould with with dried dried
breadcrumbs, Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE), RICE), I 1 cm. cm. breadcrumbs, add
add a a layer layer of of Dessert 6 (t inch) inch) thick. thick. Fill FiJI the the
mould mould to 10 within within 1 1 cm. cm. (| (t inch) inch) of of the the put and
rice top top with with stiff stiff apple apple filling. filling. Cover Cover with
with dessert dessert rice and put Gas Mark 3) for 30 in in a a moderate moderate
oven oven (160'C., (160°C., 325'F., 325~F., Gas Mark 3) for 30 (q.v.). minutes.
minutes. Serve Serve with with a a fruit fruit sauce sauce or or zabaglione
zabaglione (q.v.). CHARQLICAN-CIilLENO (Chilean (Chllean cookery) cookery) - This
This is is (lean the national dish dish of of Chile. Chile. Saut6 Sauté the the
charqui charqui (lean beef beef cut cul into into pieces) pieces) in in oil oil
with with garlic garlic and and coarsely coarsely chopped chopped onion, onion, and
and then then moisten moisten with with brown brown stock. stock. Add Add carrots,
carrots, turnips, turnips, tomatoes, tomatoes, peas peas in in their theu pods,
pods, pumpkin, celery, celery, green green haricots, haricots. and and pimentos
pimenlos cut eut into inlo pieces. pieces. Braise, and and serve selVe in in deep
deep soup soup added. potatoes can be plates. Fried plates. Fried potatoes can be
added,
of Chartreux. Chartreux' CHARTREUSE-Liqueur CHARTREUSELiqueur made made bythe by
the monks monks of follows: The approximate composition of The approximate of this
(his liqueur is is as as f01l0ws: g' (1 lb. 320 g. g. (1 lb. 7 oz.) oz.) hyssop, (l
lb. 7 oz.) oz.) balm, 6$ 640 g. 640 g. (l lb. 7 640 g. hyssop, 320 g. (a oz.) 40 g.
oz.) cînnamon cinnamon bark, (11 100 g. (4 angelica leaves, oz.) angelica (! 1 oz.)
leaves, 100 bark, 40 (Ltoz.) a0 g. (U oz.) saffron. (l~. oz.) mace, mace, 40
distilled for l0 Infuse for Infuse 10 days in l0 litres (9 quarts, I I quarts)
distiUed then add 1200 g. (2 lb. 1l oz.) white sugar. alcohol, (hen alcohol,
cabbage. partridges and and cabbage. of partridges Preparation of CHARTREUSE -
Preparation CHARTREUSE variety of preparations to a a variety word applied to the
word old days the In the the old ln nor cabbage. neither feathered game nor which
included neither which queen of of entries which undoubtedly the queen is
undoubtedly 'The chartreuse chartrease is 'The is vegetables, but but is and
vegetables, roots and of roots it is is composed composed of can serve; serve; it
one can one smiling that smiling and August, August, that July and perfect in May,
June, June, July in May, only perfect only is renewed in nature, when everything is
propitious season, season, when and propitious and renewed in nature, preparain our
our preparatrouble in us to to take take fresh trouble invite us to invite and
seems seems to and products.' excellent prod ofthese delicacy ofthe account of
tions on on acceunt the dei icacy of these excellent ucts.' tions chaudes.)
(Car€me, Trairé des en/rées enties chaudes.) Traiti des (Carême, (CarGme's recipe)
parisienne, en su4rrise la paJ'jsij~nne, I la Chartreuse à Chartreuse 'Cook 8
in ,-"a,,'1."'.)';"o;;. Champagne. When they are cold, pare 8 trumes trufles in
'Cook 100 greatest length. Peel 100 length. Peel ofthe in the the direction of cut
(hem them in and eut and the greatest prepared in in carrots prepared replaced hy
by carrots be replaced these can can he tails -- these crayfish tails crayfish (see
PARpartridge (sec of parzridge for Chartreuse Chartreuse of as for way as same way
the same the PARof a a the bottom bottom of a crown on the crown on form a to form
and begin 10 TRIDGE) -- and TRIDGE) place them the them on on the and place
truffies and the truIDes mould. buttered mou buttered Id. Trim the Add a Greek
Greek border. border. Add make a as to to make a way way as in such such a crayfish
tails tails in crayfish and trimmed. trimmed' with butter butter and previously
stiffened stiffened with fillets previously chicken fillets chicken form aa to farm
tails to acrown crown of ofcrayfish border a ofthis on top of Set on Set this
border crayfish tails the that the so that underneath, so border underneath,
parallel with the crayfish border the crayfish tails. crayfish tails. with crayfish
is framed framed wîth Greek border border is and scatter scatter very fine/y finely
and trufres very of the the truffies 'Chop the trimmings of the trimmings 'Chop
withaalayer these with Cover these mould. Cover of the the mould. the bottom bottom
of them on on the (hem layer (l inch) thick. Cover thick. Cover cm' (1 forcemeat
2lcm. of chicken chicken quenelle forcemeat of of withaa Blanquetteof Fill the the
middle with too. FUI Greek border too. the Greek the lamb "u",,,tl~r,,:~ri,,
sweetbreads; vealor or lamb BLANQUETTE); veal chicken (seeBLANQUETTE); chicken la
financiire ot d la ragoittàdla with aaragoût game fillets; orwith fillets; or
slices ofgame slices financière or à la quitefilled. filled. not be beqUÎte should
not mouldshould Themould Toulouse. The Toulouse. (5 inches) in diameter 13cm. cm.(5
forcemeat 13 'Make aacover of forcemeat coverof in diameter 'Make paper.Place Place
(*inch) round of of buttered paper. onaaround thick on inch) truck cm.(1 and1I cm.
and 205 205

DE fRUIT FRUIr -crlc'RlorrEs DE CHARLOTTES. CHARLOTTES FRUIT CHARLOTTES. FRUIT the

bottom bottom Line the DE POMMES PoMMEs -- Line cHARLorrE DE Apple charlotte.
charlotte. CHARLOTTE Apple form of of cut in in the the form bread eut of bread
slices of with slices mould with charlotte mou/d of aacharlotte of with sides wîth
Line the the sides melted butter. butter. Line in melted and dipped dipped in
hearts, and heurts, mould, as the the mould, height as same height the same in
rectangles the cut in of bread slices of bread cut slices quartered apples apples
12 quartered Slice 12 in rneltee! melted butter. Slîce dipped in and also also
dipped and hasbeen been which has (2oz., to which g.(2 cup) butter butter to oz.,
tt cup) in 50 50g. andcook cook in and (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) powdered sugar,
a 2 tablespoons added 2 tablespoons (3 added lemon rind or vanilla. Stir little
lernon and aa little pinchof cinnamon, and ofcinnamon, pinch or spatula. When the
spoonor wooden spoon with aa wooden continuously wilh continuously thickened, add 3
or 4 tableconsiderably thickened, isconsiderably mixture is apple mixture apple
jam. apricot jam. spoonsapricot spoons round withaa round coverwith andcover
mixture and the mixture with the mould with Fill the the mould Fill at180°C. 180'C.
oven at in1the Cook in inmel melted butter. Cook dippedin ofbread bread dipped of
tee! butter. he oven charthecharLeave the 40minutes. minutes' Leave (350"F., Gas
for35 to40 4)for 35to Mark4) Gas Mark (350°F.,
CHASSELAS CHASSELAS
(stuffing side this on on top top of of the filling (stuffing the filling side
down). down). To To remove remove the the this paper, put puton onit, it, for for
aasecond second only, only, aa hot hot lid lid which which melts melts the paper,
the butter. Join Join the the forcemeat forcemeat lid lid to to the forcemeat
surround the foreemeat surround butter. point of with the the point of aa knife.
knife. with 'The chartreuse chartreuse being completed, coyer being completed,
cover the the top top with with aa 'The circle of paper, and of buttered put il
(q.v.) for buttered paper, and put it in in aa bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.) for
circle an hour hour and and aa half. half. an 'To decorate, place a decorate, plaee
a ring ring of of small small white white mushrooms mushrooms on on 'To the
chartreuse, chartreuse, and and in in the put a the centre centre put a rosette
rosette of of 8 8 filets the filets (fowl or mignons à d la Ia Conti game,
according Conti (fowl or game, according to to the the nature nature mignons of the
the basic ragot$ in in the basic ragoût) form of the form a crescent, crescent,
topped of a topped by by a a of mushroom.' mushroom.' partridgg or Charheuse of
pheasant -- See of partridge, or pheasant PARTRIDGE, See PARTRIDGE, Chartreuse
PHEASANT. PHEASANT. prrrrEs CHARLittle chartreuses charheuses of of larks larks à t
la la française. frangaise. PETITES cHARLittle TREUS$ OE DE MAUVIETTES MAUvrETrrs À
A LA r.l fRANÇAISE FRAN9ATsE -- Prepare Prepare in tn dariole dariole TREUSES
(individual custard moulds custard mou moulds) in the the same same way way as mou
Ids (individual Ids) in as partridge (see (see PARTRIDGE). Chartreuse of of
par/ridge PARTRIDGE). Chartreuse The larks, larks, boned gratin forcemeal boned and
and stulTed with à (see stuffed with a gralin The forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT), and
gras and and withfoie withfoie gras and truffies, truffies, are are rolled rolled
FORCEMEAT), into a neat shape a neat shape and and set set ta to cook cook in in
cabbage. cabbage. into The dariole dariole mou moulds are Iined lined with glazed
carrots with glazed carrots and and The Ids are turnips eut cut into into small
small balls, peas and balls, with with peas and diced green diced green turoips
haricot beans beans cooked cooked in in salted salted water. water. These These
vegetables haricot in alternate are disposed disposed in alternate layers and and
kept in place by kept in a layer layer by a are quenelle forcemeat. of quenelle
forcemeat. The The larks, larks, individually wrapped wrapped in in of placed one
one in in each each mould. mould. Coyer Cover them braised cabbage, are placed
quenelle forcemeat. Cook with a a quenelle pan of in a Cook in a pan of hot hot
water water or with or bain-marie, in in the for 30 the oyen oven for 30 minutes.
bain-marie, pour game game sauce, To serve, serve, pour sauce, made made with game
stock, with ri rich stock, To ch game the birds. over the

CHATEAUBRIAND CHATEAUBRIAND -- Method Method of preparing aa beef of preparing

fillet beef fillet invented invented by by Montmireil, Montmireil, chef chef to to
Chateaubriand. Chateaubriand. The Thechateaubriand chateaubriand is is aa thick
thick sUce taken from from the slice taken middle the middle of grilled and of the
the fillet, fillet, grilled and served garnished with served garnished with château
chdteau potatoes (q.v.) (q.v.) and pO/alOes and accompanied accompanied by chdteau
sauce by chateau sauce or or béarbiarnaise naise sauce. sauce. More More rarely
(See rarely the the chateaubriand chateaubriand is is sautéed saut6ed in in butter.
butter. (See BEEF, BEEF, Chateaubriand.) Chateaubriand.) CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
CHATEAUNEUF-DU.PAPE -- The The red red wines wines of of ChâleauChdteauneuf-du-
Pape, neuf-du-Pape, a a small small commune commune in in Vaucluse, Vaucluse, enjoy
enjoy a a worldworldwide wide reputation. reputation. They They are are derived
derived principally principally from from the the vine vine stocks stocks Grenache,
Grenache, Clairette, Clairette, Syrah Syrah and and Mourvedre. Mourvddre. They They
powerful, full-bodied are are powerful, full-bodied tannie, tannic, aromatic
aromatic wines wines that that age age weil. well. Sorne producers olTer Some
producers offer a a full-bodied, full-bodied, aromatic, aromatic, white white
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chdteauneuf-du-Pape which which is is not not without without
meri!. merit. These These wines wines have have been famous for been famous for a a
long long time. time. When When Pope Pope Urban Urban X X wished wished to to
transfer transfer the papal chair the papal chair from from Avignon to Avignon to
Rome Rome he met with he met with a great deal a great deal of of opposition
opposition from a from a number number of of Cardinals Cardinals who who did did
not not wish wish to leave a to leave a part of part of the the country country
producing producing such such exquisite exquisite wines. wines. CHATOUILLARD - Name
CHATOUILLARDgiven to potatoes which Name given which are are eut cut with a with a
special special implement into into long long ribbons ribbons and and deep deep
fried. (See POTATOES.) (See POTATOES.) Cha/ouillard Chatouillard was also the was
also the nickname given given to to an an expert expert chef or fri/urier. or an an
excellent excellent rô/issier rAfissier or friturier. CHAOURCE CHAOURCE See CHEESE.
- See

CHASSELAS vine stock stock considered considered to provide CHASSEI"AS provide -

Species of vine grapes. the best dessert grapes. The fame of the is eSlablished
established The fame of the Fontainebleau Fontainebleau Chasselas is everywhere. 11
It is that it originally imported everywhere. is believed believed that it was was
originally into area around around Thomery from Switzerland in in the into the the
area from Switzerland sixteenth century. century. The The introduction of Chasselas
sixteenth introduction of Chasselas into inlo goes back Switzerland itself
Switzerland itself goes back to to the the Roman Roman conquest by Julius Caesar.
The Chasselas vines have always been grown grown in Turkey. in Turkey. Only Only
the the white white variety, variety, or or the the ros6 rosé or or violet violet
varieties (obtained (obtained by by careful careful selection and and budding), are
are known, known, despite the fact fact that in in their wild wild state all ail
vines have black black grapes. The Chasselas vine stock is found in in Switzerland,
Switzerland, grapes. The Savoy Pouilly-sur-Loire in the Nidvre. Nièvre. (The
appellation Savoy and Pouilly-sur-Loire Pouilly Pouilly Fum6 Fumé is is reserved
reserved for for Sauvignon wines.) The wine produced produced from from the
Chasselas grape is light light and fruity, rruity, best best drunk drunk young
young and slightly chilled. chilled. CHASSEUR (A (À LA) - Method Method of
preparation preparation applied applied to small pieces pieees of of meat, meat,
fowl fowl or eggs eggs which which is is characterised by by a a garnish garnish of
of sliced, sliced, saut6ed sautéed mushrooms, mushrooms, flavoured flavoured with
with shallots shallots and moistened moistened with with white white wine. wine.
(See (See BEEF. BEEF, ZourTournedos nedos chasseur.\ chasseur.) CHASSE CHASSE
ROYALE ROYAI"E -- Roast Roast composed composed of of various various game game
arranged arranged in in a a pyramid pyramid on on a a large large dish. dish.

rib rib of of beef. beef.

CHATEAU CHÂTEAlJ (Steak, (Steak, potatoes, potatoes, sauce) sauce) - Name Name
given given to to a a rather rather thick thick slice sliee of of porterhouse
porterhouse steak steak (sirloin (sirloin uppercut), uppercut), weighing weighing
800 800 e. g. to to I1 kg. kg. (l| (1 to to 2+ 2i lb.), lb.), or or a a slice sliee
cut eut from from a a

This of meat, meat, which which in in restaurants restaurants is is called c.alled

entrec|te en/recole This piece pieee of chkteau, château, is is generally generally
grilled. grilled.

The The name name also also applies applics to to potatoes potatoes cut eut into
into long long strips strips and and cooked cooked in in butter butter (see (see
POTATOES) POTATOES) and and in in restaurants restaurants Chateaubriand
Chateaubriand sauce sauce is is sometimes sometimes abbreviated abbreviated to to
Chdteau Château sauce. sauce.
206 206
CHAUD-FROID CHAUD-FRom Preparation of game whieh of fowl fowl or or game which is -
Preparation cooked as as a a hot dish, but but served served cold. Phil6as Gilbert
Philéas Gilbert says says that that the the chaud-froid chaud-froid originated
originated at the 1759, and the Château Ch0teau Montmorency in in 1759, and Ihat
that it it was was given ils name name by by the mar6chal maréchal de Luxembourg
himself. its de Luxembourg 'The mar6chal 'The maréchal de had invited a de
Luxembourg Luxembourg had a large and and evenbrilliant assembly to his castle at
at Montmorency that evening. ing. His table was famous as as one best in the French
one of the best kingdom. While While waiting waiting for for grace grace to to be
be said, kingdom. said, a a valet arrivai ofa royal courier, courier, bearer bearer
ofa message message announced the arrival to the the mardchal maréchal requiring
his his immediate immediate presence at at the the to king's counci!. council.
'There was instant instant dismay; dismay; disappointment disappointment showed
itself every face. But the the mar6chal maréchal commanded that his his absence
absence on every banquet, and left. lef!. should in no way delay the serving of the
banquet, 'The 'The guests guests took their their places places at the the table
table in in an an atmosphere atmosphere of constraint, uneasy uneasy in the absence
of their host, host, and only only of paying paying distracted distracted attention
to the dishes dishes served served with with ununaccustomed accllstomed haste.
haste. 'The 'The mar6chal maréchal returned returned very very late laie and and
imperiously imperiously dedemanded to to be be served, served, but but he he only
wanted a a single dish, dish, a a manded fricassée of chicken embalmed embalmed in
in its its ivory-coloured ivory-coloured sauce sauce fricassie which the the
famished mar6chal maréchal tasted tasted with with pleasure. pleasure. Nothing
Nothing which remains so firmly firmly in in the the mind mind as as a a dish dish
which which has has been been enenremains joyed, joyed. and and some sorne days
afterwards afterwards the the mar6chal maréchal expressed expressed the wish wish
for for the the succulent cold cold fricassde fricassée to to be be served served
again. again. the 'The 'The dish dish was was presented presented under un der the
the name name refroidi, refroidi, but but this this name name displeased displeased
the the mar6chal maréchal who who insisted insisted that that it it should should
appear on on the the menu menu under under the the name name of of chaud-froid)
chaud-froid.' appear is also also written written but but it it is is ininChauds-
froids - (Chaufroids (Chaufroids is Chauds-froids correct) are are in in fact fact
chicken chicken fricassies fricassées or or salmis salmis of of game game correct)
served cold, eold, covered coveœd with with their their gravy gravy and glazed,
glazed with with aspic. aspic. served They are are served served with with the the
appropriate appropriate chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce They and and glazed glazed
with with a a clear clear aspic aspic jelly. jelly. Recipes for for chwds-froirly
chauds-froids of ofchicken, chic ken, pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge,
Recipes quails, quails, thrushes, thrushes, will will be be found found under under
these these headings. headings. Here is is Car€me's Carême's recipe recipe for for
chaud-froid chaud-froidof ofchicken chicken in in aspic. aspic. Here Chaud-froid of
of chicken chirken in in aspic aspic (Car6meos (Carême's recipe). recipe).
cHAUDCHAUDChaud-froid
CHEESE CHEESE
Prepare a a courtcourt' Fish soup. soup. Prepare CHAUDRÉE DE FOURAS CHAUDREE DE -
Fish piece and white wine, wine, a a pie of butter butter and bouillon with with
herbs, herbs, white ce of bouillon seasoning. seasoning. Cut various fish conger
eel, whiting, sole, plaice, raiteau, - conger pieces. etc. etc. - into pieces. put
into First put firm fish fish such such as into the the court-bouillon court-
bouillon the the firm First less firm firm fish. fish. Boil few minutes later add
add the the less conger eel. eel. A few fish and the the fish for 15 minutes.
minutes. Add butter. Serve Serve the the soup soup and for 15 Add butter.
separately. separately.
used copper cauldron, cauldron, used CHAUDRON (Cauldron) Small copper CHAUDRON -
Small for for cooking. and confit de porc (preserved goose and pork) Confit d'oie
and are cooked cooked in in this copper cauldrons Untinned copper are this utensil.
utensil. Untinned jams and and preserves. may also also be for home-made home-made
jams may be used used for

CHAUMONT See CHEESE. CHEESE. - See

CHAYOTECHA VOTE - See CUST ARD MARROW. MARROW. CUSTARD

Chaud-froid presented on a dish; behind, the three-tiered plinth ofpoultry

presented a disb; Chaud-froid ofpoultry made made of of breadcrumb breadcrumb on
which it is mounted

lightly singed - 'After having lightly for 5 fine soak them them for and soak cut
them them up up and fine farmyard farmyard chickens, cut 2 hours in in lukewarm
Drain them, plunge them into lukewarm water. Drain cold water, and put them in a
pan with enough cover enough stock to coyer them completely. Boil for a and put a
few minutes, then drain and them in pieces of chicken and again. Trim Trim the the
pieces in cold cold water water again. sauté a heat. Sprinkle with a a moderate
heat. in butter over a saut6 them in !ittle pour in in the the strained strained to
sauté, then pour little flour, flour, continue continue to saut6, then stock. a
bouquet of little nutmeg, a with salt, salt, a a !ittle season with Stir, season
stock. Stir, parsley, ions, thyme, 2 onions parsley, spring onions stuck thyme,
bay, bay, basil, basil, 2 spring on onions, with 2 cloyes, the boil to the peeled
mushrooms. Bring to 12 peeled cloves, and and 12 and Remove the the minutes. Skim
Skim carefully. carefully. Remove and simmer for 30 30 minutes. simmer for pieces
pieces of chicken with a perforated spoon, spoon, draining them, with a and place
in in a a covered covered casserole. and place 'Boil remove from from 'Boil down
the to a a good consistency, consistency, remove the sauce to yolks. Return the
heat, and later add add 5 egg yolks. the Return the the heat, and 2 2 minutes later
5 egg pan pan to the all the the beat, heat, stirring ail the time, time, until
until the the sauce sauce almost reaches is cold pour onereaches the boil, then
sieve it. it. As soon as as it is third you shake once or into the third into the
fricassée, or twice and fricassie, which you set in the for 30 crushed ice. ice.
Arrange Arrange the the dish dish in the set for 30 minutes on on crushed following
manner: 'Place 'Place the in the the form form of a a crown crown on on the legs
legs of the the chickens chickens in the place the the entrée entrie dish. dish. In
In the the middle, middle, place above the wings, wings, and and above the legs
noses and put the parsons'noses legs put and the On top top of of the parsons' the
breasts. breasts. On these put the as close close together as as possible. these
put the fillets, fillets, as 'As much height as entrie, as possible should be be
given to this entrée, which in which should crowned with with a a fine fine truffie
truffie cooked cooked in should be be crowned Champagne, cock's comb. comb.
Champagne, and and topped with a a white double cock's 'Work (* cup) lukewarm cup)
lukewarm 'Work the tablespoons (t 4 tablespoons the sauce sauce with with 4 Aspic
jelly (see (see ASPIC) very smooth make it it very which should make ASPIC) which
and (removing the and thick. Coyer the surface surface of the the fricassée Cover
the fricassie (removing truffie piece with replaced). Surround the piece truffie
which which is is later later replaced). Surround the chopped in two cut in in
aspic in two colours colours cut chopped aspic aspic and and a a border border of
of aspic decorative shapes. (Carême, le Ie Pâtissier Phtissier Then serve
dish.'(Car€me, serve the dish.' shapes. Then parisien.) 207 207

poul.Er À FROID r-n GELÉE cnrEp FRoID DE DE POULET A LA

Making Beaufortin Making cheese cheese at at Beaufortin (French Governmenl (French

Tourist Office) Goverwnent Tourisl Ofice)

product of curds, CHEESE. is a a product curds, drained drained CHEESE. FROMAGE

FRoMAGE - Cheese is and, and, more more often not, fermented. From the the ear!iest
earliest often than than not, fermented. From times in stock-rearing stock-rearing
countries countries to to made in times cheese cheese has has been been made use y
different are so so man many different use up up surplus milk. Nowadays, there
there are kinds of cheese that no list, however however long, long, could could
cJaim claim to to be no list, complete. country, every district, has has its its
own own special special complete. Every Every country, every district, cheese. a
deservedly high reputacheeses have have a deservedly high cheese. Many local
cheeses Many local tion. produces Gruyère and Emmenthal; Gruy6re and Emmenthal;
tion. Switzerland Switzerland produces England, and Stilton; ltaly, Parmesan
Parmesan England, Cheshire, Stilton; ltaly, Cheshire, Cheddar and and and so so on.
on. It It and Gorgonzola; Gorgonzola; Holland, Gouda Gouda and and Edam, Edam, and
justly be may has so so no country country has may justly however, that that no
claimed, however, be claimed, great great a as France, France, where where almost
almost a variety and and range of of cbeeses cheeses as every has its its own own
local local cheese. cheese. every rural rural district has The know from from The
history of of cheese cheese is is a a very very ancient ancient one. one. We know
the remains of enorthe Manuel de de l'Antiquité l'Antiquiti celtique celtique that
that the the remains of enormous cheese draining found on on Mont Mont Beuvray.
Beuvray. draining racks can be found can be The fromage persillé, persilli. herb-
injected The art art of makingy'ornage herb-injected cheese, cheese, of making goes
goes back powcheese with with powRomans who who mixed mixed their their cheese back
to to the the Romans dered de la Ia Histoire de dered thyme. thyme. Le Le Grand
Grand d'Aussy d'Aussy in in his his book book Histoire vie privée (1783) says:
'Even today privie des in certain certain des Français Frangais (1783) says: 'Even
today in regions regions of a cheese cheese impregnated impregnated with with of
Lorraine Lorraine they they make make a fennel fennel seeds'. seeds'.
CHEESE CHEESE Themilk milkof goats,ewes, ofcows, cows,goats, ewes,and andsometimes
sometimesother other The mammals,can canbe usedskimmed, partlyskimmed, beused
skimmed,partly skimmed,whole, whole,or mammals, or enrichedwith withadded
addedcream. cream.Coagulation place Coagulationcan cantake takeplace enriched
spontaneously, that thatisisto tosay sayby bythe thenatural naturalfermentation
fermentation of spontaneously, of themilk, milk,or orititcan canbe inducedby
beinduced theaddition addition of bythe certain the ofcertain vegetable juices.Most
Mostoften oftenititisisbrought broughtabout aboutby vegetablejuices. bythe
theaction action ofrenne rennet, curdlingagent agentextracted extractedfrom fromthe
thestomachs of t, aacurdling stomachsof of young mammals. mammals. Rennet (dried
Rennet may maybe usedin insolid young beused solidform form(dried (plainor fresh)
or orfresh) inliquid liquidform orin form(plain orseasoned seasonedwith or
withherbs). herbs). Curdlingwith with rennet rennetis iscarried carriedout outin
indifferent Curdling different ways. ways.The The milk may may be left to tocurdle
curdle in inco beleft milk Id surroundings, cold surroundings, when whenvery very
little rennet rennetis isused. used.It Itmay maybe becurdled little curdled at
ataahigher highertemperatempera(38' to ture(38° to40°C., 40oC., 100° 100"to 104"F.)
in ture to104°F.) inwhich whichcase casemore morerennet rennet isrequired.
required. is The moulding mouldingof ofthe thecheese, cheese, which The which is
isthe thelast laststage stagein inthe the drainage of ofthe the curds, curds, is
iscarried carried out drainage outin inosier osierbaskets, baskets, or orin in
pottery, wood earthenware, pottery, earthenware, wood or or tinplate tinplate
moulds. moulds. These Theseare are usually covered covered with usually with
aaclotho cloth. For Forsoft softcheeses, cheeses, the thecurds curdsare are
carefully broken broken up put in carefully up before before being being put inthe
themoulds. moulds.For For hard cheeses, cheeses, ail putting the hard all moisture
moisture is isexpelled expelled by curds by putting thecurds press, or through aa
press, through by draining draining them or by between two them between twoboards
boards with weights weights on with on top. top. At this thisstage, process of At
stage, the theprocess fermentation begins. offermentation
begins.TheoretiTheoretiprocess is cally this cally this process is divided divided
into into three three stages stageswhich, which,in in practice, tend practice, tend
more lessto more or or less to overlap: overlap: 1. 1. The The action action of of
the the ferments ferments in in the the milk milk which which attack attack
(sugarof the the lactose lactose (sugar of milk) milk) and and tum turn it it into
into lactic lactic acid. acid. 2. 2. The The culture culture of of fungi fungi
which which appear appear on on the thesurface surface of of the quickly form the
curds curds and and quickly form aa thick, thick, furry furry fungoid fungoidskin
skin (known in (known in the the cheese cheese trade trade as 'white'). These as
the These fungi the 'white'). fungifeed feed on lactic acid on the the lactic acid
as as soon soon as it is is formed, as it formed, up up to to the the time time
when when ail all the the lactose lactose has has been play aa part used. They part
in been used. They also also play in the the maturing maturing of particular, it of
the the curds. curds. In In particular, it is is these these fungi fungi which
which give give to to certain certain cheeses cheeses their their characteristic
characteristic and and much-prized much-prized bitter bitter flavour; flavour; but
but their action must their action not be promust not allowed to be allowed to
proceed ceed unchecked. unchecked. 3. The culture culture of 3. The of secondary
secondary microbes. microbes. These These are are organorganisms isms of of various
various kinds, kinds, microbes, microbes, fungi, fungi, mildew, mildew, mainly
mainly red red or (known in or orange orange in in colour colour (known in the the
cheese cheese trade trade as 'red'). as the the 'red'). Their Their function
function is is to to inhibit, inhibit, by by co-existence, co-existence, the the
too-rapid too-rapid breeding of of the the fungi fungi of 'red' of the phase. Once
the second second phase. Once the the 'red' has has been formed, the been formed,
the cheeses cheeses settle settle down down and and mature mature more more or
quickly according or less less quickly according to to their their nature. nature.

Drainingcurds curds Draining

We also also know know that that Blanche Blanche de de Navarre Navarre sent sent
200 200 cheeses cheeses We to Philippe Philippe Auguste Auguste every year, and
poet François every year, and that that the the poet Frangois to Villon bequeathed
bequeathed in in his his famous famous will will aa talmouze, talmouze, aa kind
kind of of Villon cheese soufflé, souffi6, to to rus his friend friend Jehan Jehan
Ragnier. Ragnier. cheese It was was the the custom custom at at the the beginning
beginning of the fifteenth fifteenth century of the century It gift of to send send
a a gift persons one of cheeses cheeses to to persons one admired. admired. For For
example, example, to Charles d'Orléans, year 1407, d'Orl6ans, in in the the year
1407, sent 'ladies sent several several to to 'ladies Charles to whom whom he he
was was attached'. attached'. In In the the sixteenth sixteenth century century
Brie Brie to cheese was was considered considered the the best best of of ail. all.
The The cheeses cheeses of of cheese Dauphin6, Vexin, Vexin, Auvergne, Auvergne,
Switzerland, Switzerland, Holland, Holland, and and Dauphiné, Italy were also very
much much in also very in demand. demand. Italy Madame de de Montespan Montespan
invented invented 100 100 sauces sauces using using cheese. cheese. Madame When
Louis Louis XVI XVI stopped stopped at at Varennes Varennes in in need need of of
refreshrefreshWhen ment he he asked asked for for wine and and cheese. cheese. ment
ln 1777 1777 there there were about about thirty thirty varieties varieties that
that had had made made a In a name for for themselves. Later Later Metternich
Metternich gave gave a a reception reception at name at he served served ail all
the French cheeses, cheeses, and and invited guests invited his his guests which he
part in to take part in competitions competitions for for choosing choosing the the
best. to Fresh cheeses are distinct from from other other cheeses cheeses in in not
not being Fresh cheeses being fermented. They are are produced by spontaneous
coagulation by spontaneous coagulation fermented. (Fromage à d la pie) or
coagulation coagulation with (petit-suisse). with rennet rennet (Petit-suisse).
(Fromage Fermented cheeses made rnade from raw cunis curds are are of two Fermented
cheeses two kinds: kinds: from raw (Brie, Coulommiers, soft cheeses cheeses (Brie,
Coulommiers, Camembert, Camembert, Livarot, soft Livarot, Pont-l'Ev€que, etc.),
etc.), and (Dutch, Cantal, and hard hard cheeses cheeses (Dutch, Pont-I'Evêque,
Cantal, Cheshire, Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, etc.). etc.). There There are
Cheshire, Roquefort, are also cheeses (Gruvbre, Emmenthal, scalded cunis curds
(Gruyère, cheeses made made from from scalded Parmesan, Port-Salut, etc.).
Parmesan, Port-Salut,

Cheese cellar cellar Cheese (Maison Androuit. Androuët. Phot. Phot. Larousse)
Larousse) (Maison Cheese shop (Nicolas) (Nrcolcs) Cheese shop

208 208
CHEESE CHEESE

r*

w
( I*doyen. Phot. Nicolas) platter (Ledoyell. Cheese Chee se platter Phal. Nicolas)

protein first-class prote a first-class is a cheese is Dietetically in speaking,

cheese Dietetically speaking, rich in in It is is rich diets. It vegetarian diets.
meat in in vegetarian capable of replacing meat capable of in minerai mineral and
in and C, C, and 82, and A, BI, Bl, B2, proteins, proteins, fats, fats, Vitamins
Vitamins A, feror ferfatty or some fatty from sorne and, apart apart from
digestible and, salts. is very very digestible salts. It is constitutions. all
constitutions. for ail is suitable suitable for mented varieties, is mented
varieties, goes with which with which wine goes about which which wine written
about Much has has been been written of taste. taste. SaintSainta matter matter of
is entirely entirely a It is particular particular cheese. cheese. It this opinion
opinion but this spur, but as a a drinking drinking spur, cheese as Amand described
cheese Amand described of the the value of the value over-emphasise the can over-
emphasise is ta ble, for for cheese cheese can is deba debatable, quality. The The
its true true quality. of its impression of give a wine a false false impression
and give wine and relief. into relief. them into to throw throw them cheese to
require cheese great great wines not require wines do do not goats' wines suit suit
goats' White wines generally best. best. White Red are generally Red wines wines
are and cheese and Comte cheese cheese dishes; dishes; Comte cooked cheese milk and
cooked milk cheeses cheeses and Never serve serve go very together. Never very weil
well together. Château-Chalon wine go Chiteau-Chalon wine the great wines with
cheese. cheese. wines with the great whatever of whatever cheeses of France,
cheeses In France, The cheese -- ln of cheese The serving serving of (dessert).
Thus Thus sweet (dessert). the sweet before the kind, served before always served
kind, are are always salad or the the sai course, or main course, follow the the
main they ad normally follow would normally they would and meat and after the the
meat separately after if served separately should be be served if this this should
vegeta bles. vegetables. plate, on aa separate separate plate, alone on served
alone Each is usually usually served cheese is Each cheese board. cheese board. on
aa cheese but be served served on may also also be cheeses may but cheeses asthe
the time as sametime at the the same fresh butter butterat It serve fresh to serve
It is is desirable desirable to as they they not, as or not, take butter butter or
may take cheese. way, diners diners may In this this way, cheese. In take butter
butter prefer not not to to take please. please. Generally, connoisseurs prefer
Generally, connoisseurs with their cheese. cheese. with their and (U.S. crackers)
kindsand various kinds of various crackers) of Savoury biscuits (D.S. Savoury
biscuits With cheese. With with cheese. served with may also also be be served
slices of black black bread bread may slices of cumin. toserve servecumin. isusual
usualto it is certain Munster, it notably Munster, cheeses, notably certain
cheeses, provide aasuitable suitable alsoprovide Fresh fennelalso or bulb bulb
fennel celeryor heads of ofcelery Fresh heads accompaniment cheese. forcheese.
accompaniment for the first to tothe thecheese cheese first offerthe It France to
tooffer in France custom in It is is the thecustom knife theknife anddrives
drivesthe itand master He examines examinesit house. He ofthe thehouse. master of
209 209

guests. This This applies applies round to to the the guests. it is is handed
handed round into it it before before it into guests shy guests are always always
shy for there there are whole cheeses, cheeses, for to whole especially to
especially Camembert' an uncut uncut Camembert. say, an to start, start, say,
reluctant to who are are reluctant who judicial precedents precedents regulate
regulate and judicial decrees and Various laws, laws, decrees Various cheeses.
French cheeses. given to various French to various names given the names use of of
the the legal legal use the for reserved for is strictly strictly reserved for
instance, instance, is Roquefort, for The name name Roquefort, The are clearly
clearly area whose whose boundaries boundaries are an area from an coming from
cheeses coming cheeses as Camembert, Camembert, such as cheeses, such other
cheeses, case of of other In the the case laid down. down. In laid a clear clear
followed by by a must be be followed name must the name and Port-Salut, Port-Salut,
the Brie, and Brie, the cheese cheese which the in which district in or district
dipartement or the département of the indication of indication made. has been been
made. has in France France made in cheeses made 400 different different cheeses
least 400 are at at least There are There cheeses French cheeses appreciated French
most appreciated lists the the most This section section lists alone. This alone.
in are obtainable obtainable in which are cheeses which foreign cheeses many
foreign as weil well as as rriany as and elsewhere. France and elsewhere. France
from season from is in in season which is cheese which Belgian cheese Aettekees -
Belgian AettekeesMay. to May. November to November from is in in season season from
which is in Béarn B6arn which made in Amou -- Cheese Cheese made Amou to May. May.
November to November November from November in season from cheeseinseason Arrigny
-- A A Champagne Champagne cheese Arrigny May. to May. to Novemfrom Novemseasonfrom
isin inSeason which is cheese which Asco -- Corsican Corsican cheese Asco May. to
May. ber to ber year. theyear. throughout the cheese eaten eaten throughout
Normandy cheese Aurore -- Normandy Aurore all eaten ail andcan canbe beeaten 'cow
cheese' cheese' and is ca called This is Autrm -- This AutWl lied 'cow year round.
round. the year the is district is Orldanais district theOrléanais fromthe (Les)
Aydes This cheese cheesefrom. Aydes -- This (Les) andJune. June. October and
betweenOctober inseason seasonbetween in In Alps. In theAlps. foothillsof ofthe
inthe thefoothills inProvence, Provence, in Madein Banon- -Made Banon November. May
to toNovember. fromMay seasonfrom season yearround. round. allthe theyear eatenail
cheese eaten Beaufort - - Savoy Savoycheese Beaufort fromOctober October isin
inseason season from whichis cheesewhich Savoycheese Beaumont- -Savoy Beaumont
toJune. June. to
CHEESE

CHEESE
Now[hen, then,let letus usshout shoutwith withail allour ourmight: might: Now
Blessedbe bethe theland landof ofBrie. Brie. Blessed Pont-l'Ev6que, get getthee
theebehiud behindus us! Pont-l'Evêque, ~ Auvergneand andMilan, Milan,out outof
ofour oursight. sight. Auvergne Briealone alonedeserves deservesthat thatwe we Brie
Should record recordher praisesin herpraises inletters lettersof gold. ofgold.
Should Gold,l Isay, say,and andwith withgood goodreason, reason, Gold, Sinceititis
iswith withgold gold that thatone one must mustcompare compare Since This chee
cheese towhich which 1I now now pay pay homage. homage. This se to It is yellow as
isas as yellow gold worshipped as the thegold worshipped by by man, man, lt But
without without its itsanxiety anxiety But For one one has has only only to press
it to press it with with one's one's fingers fingers For For it it to tosplit split
its its sides sideswith with laughter laughter For And run run over over with with
fat. fat. And Why then, then, is is it it not not endless endless Why As indeed
indeed its its circular circular form form is is endless? endless ? As Why must
must its its full full moon, moon, eternally eternally appetising, appetising, Why
Wanetoacrescent?... Wane to a crescent? ... The cheese cheese of of Brie Brie has
has not not deterioraled deteriorated since since that that time. The time. On the
the contrary, contrary, it it has has actually actually improved improved in
quality and in quality and is is On now more more uniformly uniformly good, good,
since since the the local local fa farmers, abannow rmers, abandoning the the old
old methods, methods, use use the the ferments ferments tested tested and and
recomrecomdoning mended by by the the laboratory laboratory at at La La Ferté-sous-
Jouarre. Fert6-sous-Jouarre. mended Brie is is fully fully ripe ripe when when the
cheese cheese is ail all of of the same same texture. Brie pressure is When
pressure is exerted exerted on on the the surface surface of of a a section section
the When cheese should should bulge bulge but but not not run. run. Brie Brie is is
made made in in various cheese sizes. A large Brie A large Brie may may be (22
inches) in be up to to 54 54 cm. cm. (22 in diamdiam. sizes. eter, a a medium Brie
up (16 inches), up to to 42 42 cm. cm. (16 inches), a a small one eter, medium Brie
not more than (13 inches). than 33 33 cm. cm. (13 inches). There There are
dilferent different kinds not more of Brie Brie known as Briesjermiers, Bies
fermiers, lailiers laitiers and and fagon Coulomof known as façon Coulommiers.
miers. It gallons) to 20 litres 3] gallons) It takes takes from from 13 13 litres
litres (2* (2~ gallons, gallons, 3i (4] gallons) milk 5| gallons) a cheese, cheese,
according (4t gallons, gallons, 51 milk to to make a according tosize. Although
some experti to size. Although whole whole milk milk is always used, sorne experts
advise advise a a little little skimming skimming - bringrng bringing the the
percentage percentage of of cieam cream down down to to 25 25 or or 27 27 per per
cent cent - because, hecause, they they maintain, maintain, a higher higher cream
Cfeam content content makes makes the the cheese cheese bitter. bitter. A good Brie
Brie must must be be creamy but not not runny, runny, and should A good be be pale
pale yellow yellow in in colour. colour. Brie Brie de de Meaux. Meaux. At At its
its best best from from November November to to May. May. Brie Brie de de
Coulommiers. Coulommiers. Smaller Smaller than than Brie Brie de de Meaux Meaux -
approapproximately ximately 26 26 cm. cm. (10 (10 inches) inches) in in diameter.
diameter. At At its ils best-from best from November November to to May. May. Brie
Brie de de Melun. Melun. This This is is made made in in thicker thicker and and
smaller smaller rounds rounds than than Brie Brie de de Meaux. Meaux. It Il is is a
a special special cheese cheese with with a a much much more more pronounced
saltier and pronounced aroma, aroma, being beingsaltier and more more piquant.
piquant. It It is is good good all ail the the year year round. round. Brie de
Meaux Briede deMontereau. Monlereau. Made Madein inthe thesame samewav wayas asBrie
Briede Meaux but but is isa a smaller smallerand and deeper deepercheese. cheese.
Brillat-Savarin made in in Normandy Normandy which which can can Brillat-Savarin -
Cheese Cheese made be he eaten eaten all aIl the the year year round. round.
Brinzen Brinzen -- Hungarian Hungarian cheese cheese made made from from fresh
fresh ewes' ewes' milk, milk, mixed is dried dried for for l0 10 to to 12 12 days,
days, kneaded kneaded mixed with with rennet. rennel. It It is with with 3 3per per
cent cent salt, salt, then then put put into iuto drums drums and and pressed.
pressed. Broccio Corsican cheese, cheese, made made from from goats' goats' milk
miJk or or Broccio -- Corsican sour sour ewes' ewes' milk, milk, very very
delicate, delicate, and and similar similar in in appearance appearance to toPetit-
suisse. Petit-suisse.A Alarge largeproportion proportionof ofthis thischeese
cheeseis isexported. exported. It Il is is eaten ealen plain, plain, in in fritters
fritters or orin in ravioli ravioli and and is is in in season season between
Mayand and November. November.It Itis isalso alsoused used as asaastuffing
stuffingfor for between May vegetables. cakecalled ca liedFiaderu Fiadeneis is made
madewith withit. il. vegetables.A Aspecial specialcake Caccio-cavallo ltaltan
cheese cheese made made in in the the region region of of Caccio-cavallo -- Italian
Naples Naples from from skimmed skimmed cows' cows' milk, milk, moulded moulded in
in the the shape shape of ofgourds gourdsand andleft leftto 10dry drystraddled
straddledon onsticks. sticks.Some SorneCaccioCacciocavallo cavallo addicts addicts
are are not uot satisfied satisfied with with merely merely having having the the
cheese dried,but butinsist insiston onits iL~being beingsmoke-cured smoke-curedas
aswell, weIl,as as cheesedried, was the donein inthe thetime timeof of theRomans.
Romans. wasdone

Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de de Cambrai Cambrai - Cheese Cheese made in

Flanders, in season from November to Mav. made in Flanders. in season from November
to May. Brie - This cheese has a claim to nobility. As long ugo u, Brie - This
cheese has a claim to nobility. As long ago as the fifteenth century, Charles ol
iouis d'Orléans, father father the fifteenth century. Charles d'Orl6ans, year of
Louis XII, ordered Bries by the dozen to give XII, ordered Bries by the dozen to
give as as New New Year presents presents to his friends. Two centuries later,
Saint Amant, the poet of the poet of to his [riends. Two centuries later, Saint
Amant, good living, devoted a much-quoted ode to ,this genile;am good living,
devoted a much-guoted ode to 'th.is gent le jam of Bacchus': of Bacchus':

Beaupr6 de Roybon Cheese made in the Dauphin6 which Beaupré de Roybon - -Cheese
made in the Dauphiné which is in season from November to April. is in season from
November 10 April. Bleu d'Auvergne - A blue mould cheese which is also Bleu
d'Auvergne A blue mouJd cheese which is also known under the name of BIeu de Salers
and is in season known under the name of Bleu de Salers and is in season from
November to May. It is usually made of a mixture of from November la May. Il is
lIslially made of a mixlure of goats', ewes'and cows' milk. goats', ewes' and cows'
milk. Bleu de Basillac Cheese made in the Limousin dipartethe Limousin départeBleu
de Basillac - - Cheese made in ment. lt resembles Roquefort, and is at its best
between ment. It resembles Roquefort, and is at ils best between November and May.
November and May. Blers frangais (French blue cheeses) - In France there are Bleus
français (French bine cheeses) - In France there are a number of these cheeses,
which have something in common a number ofthese cheeses, which have something in
common with Roqueforl but are less delicate in flavour. Among the with Roquefort
but are less delicate in f1avour. Among the best of these are Blan d'Auvergne, made
chiefly in the Montchiefly in the Montbest of these are Bleu d'Auvergne, made Dore
district; Fourme d'Ambert, Grand bornant, and, Th\nes Dore district; Fourme
d'Ambert, Grand bornant, and Thônes of the Haute-Savoie; the Blue cheese Gex, made
from cows, of the Haute-Savoie; the Blue cheese Gex, made from cows' milk in the
Ain dipartement; Champolion from the eueyras milk in the Ain déparlemenl;
Champo/éon from the Queyras (in the High Alps); Saint-Marcellin and Sassenage, made
(in the High Alps); Saint-Marcellin and Sassenage, made in the Isdre district;
Septmoncel,made in the Jura mountains. in the Isère district; Septmoncel, made in
the Jura mounlains. According to the producers of Roquefort, cows' milk According
to the producers of Roquefort, cows' milk cheeses and Roquefort are two distinct
categories of cheeses. of cheeses. cheeses and Roquefort are two distinct
categories Persill{ is the term used for Roquefort and, bleu the term term Persillé
is the tcrm used for Roquefort and bleu the used for other veined cheeses. However,
the,persilli, of the used for other veined cheeses. However, the 'persillé' of the
Aravis is allowed. Aravis is allowed. Blue cheeses frm other lan6 A great many blue
cheeses Blue cheeses from olher lands -- A great many blue cheeses are made outside
France. They include blue Tyrolem from are made outside France. They include blue
Tyrolean from Rastadt; Cabrales from the Asturias; Portuguese CastelloRastadt;
Cabra/es from the Asturias; Portuguese Caslel/obranco; Sarrazin from Sarraz in
Switzerland: Stilton from branco; Sarrazin from Sarraz in Switzerland; SI ilion
from England; the Italian Stracchino which has something in England; the Italian
Siracchino which has something in common with Gorgonzola. common with Gorgonzola.
Bo-ndon - Variety of cheese which is made in Normandy, Bnndon - Variety of cheesc
which is made in Normandy, mostly around Rouen. It is a whole-milk, small,loaf-
shaped mostly around Rouen. Il is a whole-milk, small, loaf-shaped cheese, rather
like Gournay in texture, but with 2 per Cent but with 2 per cent cheese, rather
like Gournay in texture, sugar added. It is about 7l cm. (3 and 4 4 to 5 cm. sugar
added. Il is about 7i cm. (3 inches) inches) high high and to 5 cm. (l| to 2
inches) in diameter. (l1- to 2 inches) in diameter. Bosson macer6 - French cheese
made in provence, which Bosson macéré French cheese made in Provence, which is in
season from December to March. is in season from December to March. Bouille Cheese
made in Normandy, which is in @a) (La) Bouille - Cheese made in Normandy, wh.ich is
in season between October and Mav. season between October and May. Boule de Lille -
Dutch cheese, known in Holland under Boule de Lille - Dutch cheese, knowll in
Holland under the name of Oude Kaas, which can be eaten all the year round. the
name of OuLie Kaas, which can be eaten al! the year round.

Boulette d'Avesneg

or Boulette

Sus! qu'à plein gosier on on s'icrie: s'écrie: Biny soit Ie tetitoire de Brie. Bény
soil le territoire de Brie, Pont-l'Evdque, arriire de nous! Pont-/'Evêque, arrière
de nous' Auvergne et Milan, cachez-vous. Auvergne el Milan, cachez-vous. C'est luy
seulement qui mirite C'est luy seulement qui mérile or sa gloire soit Qu'en Qu'en
or sa glOire soil escrite; escrile; Je dis en or avec raison, Je dis en Or avec
railOn, qu' Puis il fe ro i t c ompar a ison Puisqu'ilferoil comparaison De ce
fromage que j'honore De ce fromage que j'honore A ce mdtal que l'homme que
l'hommeadore: adore: A ce mé/al II est aussi jaune que luy; Il eSI aussi jaune que
luy; Toutefois ce n'est pas d'ennuy, Toulefois ce n'est pas d'ennuy, Car, si tost
que le doigt Ie presse, si 10SI que le doigt le presse, IlCar, rit et se crdve de
gresse . . . Il rit el se crève de gresse ... Hd! pourquoy n'est-il Wny lié!
pourquoy n'est-il infiny Tout aussi bien en sa matiire TOUl aussi bien en sa
matière l'estoit en sa forme efiidre ? Qu'il Qu'il l'e5/Oii en sa forme entière?
Pourquoy tousjours s' apet issant, Pourquoy tousjours s'apelissant, De lune
devient-il croissant? . . . De lune devient-il croissant? ...

Sus ! qu'd plein gosier

2r0 210
CHEESE CHEESE
Camembert Camembert -A A soft soft cheese, cheese, invented, invented, or or rather
rather perfected, perfected, in in about about the the year year 1790 1790 by by a
a local local farmer's farrner's wife, wife, Mme Mme Harel, Harel, in grateful
grateful memory, memory, a a statue statue has has been been erected. erected. to
whom, whom, in to Good Good quality quality Camembert Camembert is is made made
from from whole whole unskimmed unskimmed milk. The cheese chee se is is made made
mainly mainly in in the the winter winter by by a a process process milk. The
manufacture of ofBrie, Brie, but but the the micromicrosimilar to to that that used
used in in the the manufacture similar and give give to to the the cheese cheese a
a slight slight characcharacorganisms are are different different and organisms
teristic bitterness bitterness which which the the makers makers attribute
attribute to to the the oatoatteristic straw of of the the wicker wicker trays.
trays. straw Camembert, which which is is chiefly chiefly made made in in the the
regions regions of of Camembert, Vimoutiers and and Livarot, Livarot, is is disc-
shaped, disc-shaped, thicker thicker and and much mucb Vimoutiers must be be pale
pale yellow, yellow, smooth, smooth, smaller than than Brie. Brie. The The cheese
cheese must smaller without holes, holes, and and firm. firm. without It is is made
made today today all aH over over France France and and even even in in other other
counIt by law law its its place place of of origin origin must must be be
indicated. indicated. The tries, but but by tries, Camembert season season lasts
Iasts from November November to to May' May. Camembert

Cheddar cheese

cheese Monument of Camembert Camembert cheese Harel. the the creator creator of
Monument to Mme Haret, to Mme

in mixture made made in Cancoillotte cheese mixture Very strong strong cheese
Cancoillotte -- Very It serving' It Franche-Comté, melted before before serving.
has to to be be melted which has Franche-Comt6, which is June. to June. from
September September to is in in season season from It can can be be in Auvergne.
Auvergne. It made in CantaJ cheese made strong cheese Hard, strong Cantal -- Hard,
good from from particularly good year round is particularly eaten round but but is
whole year eaten the the whole November May. November to to May. in season season
cheese, in Carré Normandy cheese, de Bonneville Bonneville -- Normandy Carr6 de
between June. and June. September and between September to April to from April
Chabichou in season season from cheese, in Chabichar -- Poitou Poitou cheese, and
sweet. sweet. and is issoft soft and It is milk and December. goats'milk from
goats' is made made from December.It its season has its season se made which bas
Chaingy in Orléans Orl6ans which made in Cheese Chaingr -- Chee from to June. June.
from September September to is whichis Champenois Riceys-Cendr6 which called
Riceys-Cendré still called Cheesestill Champenois -- Cheese in and June. June.
September and inseason season between between September district, Chaource in the
the Champagne Champagnedistrict, made in This cheese, cheese, made Chaource -- This
from It is isin inseason season from is toSoumaintrain. Soumaintrain. It similar to
issomewhat somewhat similar November November to to May. May. which Chaumont -
Cheese regionwhich Champagne region in tbe made in theChampagne CharmtontCheese
made is November to toMay. May. from November isin inseason season from

year round. round. all the the year eaten ail cheese eaten English cheese Cheddar
Cheddar - English in two two made in cheese made English cheese milk English Hard,
cows' cows' milk Chechire Cheshire - Hard, year round. round. the year all the
eaten ail It can can be be eaten white. It red and and white. colours: col ours :
red in is known known in cheese is Cheshire cheese which Cheshire Name by by which
Chester - Name France. France. is goats' milk which is milk which from goats' made
from cheese made Bresse cheese Chewet Chevret - Bresse to April. APril. December to
from December in season season from in of dried dried It is is made made of
produced in in Savoy. Savoy. It Cheese produced ChewotinChevrotin - Cheese The
December. The to December. March to from March is in in season season from and is
goats'milk goats' milk and Bourin Bourmade in little cheeses cheeses made are
little Moulins are de Moulins Chevrotins de Chevrotins bonnais. Mdconnais, called
Mâconnais, also called Cheese, also Micon -- Cheese, de Mâcon Chewotton de
Chevrotton to September. September. May to from May in season is in season from
that is that Foix de Foix in tbe Comt6 de the Comté made in Cheese made de Luchon
Luchon -- Cheese Cierp de Cierp May. to May. November to from November is in in
season season from which is which year round. round. all tbe the year eaten alI can
be be eaten which can cheese which Jura cheese Comt6Comté - Jura cream soft cream
of soft category of into the the category This cornes comes into Coulommiers --
This Coulommiers neighbourhood in the the neighbourhood district in Brie district
in the the Brie is made made in It is cheeses. It cheeses. (Seine-et-Marne), and
its best best between between is at at its and is of Coulommiers Coulommiers
(Seine-et-Marne), of and May. May. November and November after salting. salting.
fresh, after eaten fresh, usually eaten are usually cheeses are Coulommiers cheeses
Coulommiers kept to say, say, kept is to that is Brie, that processed like like
Brie, also be be processed may also They may They white mould. mould. with white
are covered covered with they are until they until with aa crust with white crust
have aa white must have good Coulommiers A good Coulommiers must A and slightly
slightly touch, and to the the touch, creamy to greyish tinge, be creamy tinge, be
slight greyisb sligbt yellowish inside. inside. yellowish are several several There
are m CRÈME cntw -- There A LA FRoMAcE À cheese. FROMAGE Cream cheese. Cream to the
the cream to add sorne somecream is to to add One is cheese. One making this this
cheese. ways of of making ways it make it is to to make another is rennet,another
the rennet, introducing the milk before before introducing milk draining after
draining cream after fresh cream with fresh worked witb milk worked from skimmed
skimmed milk from drainage. the drainage. complete the tocomplete put into into mou
moulds and put Ids to and inseason cheese in season creamcheese soft cream
Alsatiansoft des Vosges Vosges-- Alsatian Crdme des Crème and April. April.
November and betweenNovember between cheese goats' milk milk cbeese Semi-hard
goats' de Chavignol Chavignol-- Semi-hard Crottin de Crottin December. to December.
May to from May inseason isin seasonfrom which is inBerry, Berry, which madein made
below. cheese below. Nantais cheese SeeNantais Cur6-- See Curé good France,good
northem France, in northem made in Cheese made Dauphin -- Cheese Dauphin MaY.
andMay. November and betweenNovember between year allthe theyear eatena1l which can
can be beeaten cheesewhich Nivernais cheese Decizn -- Nivernais Decize Brie.
resembles Brie. It resembles round.It round. somewhat cheese somewhat softcbeese
whole-milk soft Smallwhole-milk Demi-sel - - Small Demi-sel drained, beingdrained,
afterbeing Thecurd, curd,after double-cream. The todouble-cream. similar to similar

2ll 211
CHEESE CHEESE
sieved and put in moulds, has I to l* per cent salt added sieved and put in moulds,
has 1 to 1t per cent salt added to it. to il. Doublc-cream. nowrB-cntta - French
soft cream cheese Double.-cream. DOUBLE-CRÈME - French soft cream cheese inwhÎch
whichthe themilk milk is isenriched enriched with with added addedcream,
cream,mc:re~ISHH! increasing in the weight by one-sixth. A small quantity of rennet
is mixed the weight by one-sixth. A small quantity of rennet is with it it so so
that that the the slow slow process of ofcoagulation coagulation lasls lasts about
about with 24 hours. The curd, wrapped in a cloth, is put under weights 24 hours.
The curd, in a cloth, is under weights to drain. drain. Next, Next, cream cream is
worked workd ioto into it. The The curds curds are are ta moulded and wrapped in
waxed paper. moulded and wrapped in waxed paper. Dmlop -- Scottish Scottish cheese
cheese somewhat somewhat similar similar to to Cheshire Cheshire Dunlop and Double
Gloucester, but which, in the opinion of English and Double Gloucester, but which,
in the opinion of English gastronomes, is much superior to both. Sir Walter Scott
gastronomes, is much to both. Sir Walter Scott was enthusiastic about this cheese.
was enthusiastic about Dutch cheeses - There are a great many of these. The Dutch
cheeses - There are a great many of these. The best-known, Edam, Edarn, Îs is made
made in in a a number number of of European European countries and in in America.
America. Partly Partly skimmed skimmed milk, milk, curdled curdled in in counlries
15 to 20 minutes, is mixed with rennet. Fermentation is very 15 to 20 minutes, is
mixed with rennet. Fermentation is very slow, and and allowed allowed to to
continue continue until until a a hard, hard, non-porous non-porous slow, rind is
is formed. As soon as the cheese is fully fermented, the rÎnd formed. As soon as
the cheese is fully fermented, the cheese is painted over with a coating of linseed
oil. Somecheese is painted over with a coating of linseed oil. Sometimes it it is
is gfven a a furtner further coating paraffin, before coating of of paraffin,
before being being times (dye). coloured annatto (dye). coloured with annatto
cheese is yellow-red when stove-dried, softish and Edam cheese Edam is yellow-red
when stove-dried, softish and free from holes. free from holes. Emmenthal Swiss
hard hard cheese cheese named named after after the the high - Swiss Emmenthal Emme
valley (in the Berne Canton), but made in Switzerland Emme valley (in the Berne
Canton), bul made in wherever there there is is highland highland pasture. pasture.
As As the the transport transport of of wherever butter from from these these
mountain districts would be uneconomic, butter mountain dislricts would he
uneconomic, Emmenthal cheese cheese is usually made from whole milk. HowEmmenthal
is made from whole milk, However, in in sorne some parts a a semi-fat Emmenthal
Emmenthal is is made, made. The cheese is manufactured in the same way as Gruydre.
cheese manufactured in the same way as Gruyère. The round round Emmenthal Emmenthal
cneeses cheeses are are larger larger than Gruydres, The tban Gruyères, weighing
from 60 to 100 ke. (132 to 2201b.). Their rind is is " ,... onn.!> from 60 ta 100
kg. (132 ta 220 lb,). Their rÎnd straw straw coloured. .... VIVU' ...... The cheese
cheese is creamier than Gruydren less pungent and The is crcamicr Ihan Gruyère,
less pungent and usually less salty. It has a good many holes called .eyes,,
usually Jess salty. Il has a many holes called 'eyes', usually three to every bore-
hole made. usually three to every made. There is also a French Emmenthal cheese.
There Îs a1so a French Emmenthal cheese. Epoisces - Whole-milk, mould inoculated,
soft French Epoisses - Whole-milk, mould inoculated, soft French cheese made in
almost every part of Burgundy and in central cheese made in almost every part of
Burgundy and in cenlral France. Its name comes from a village on the C6te d,Or.
France. Ils name cornes from a village on the Côte d'Or. The The milk m!lk is is
curdled curdled with with a a special rennet, renne!, flavoured ftavoured with with
pepper, clove, fennel, salt, and brandy. It is eaten bhck and brandy. Tt is eaten
black clove, fennel, either fresh or ripened. eithcr or ripened. The cheese is left
in cellars to ripen for a longer or shorter The cheese is left in cellars 10 for a
longer or shorter time according to whether it is to be eaten passC (over-ripe)
time according to whether it îs to eaten passe (over-ripe) (runny). ot coulant or
coulant (runny). The The fresh fresh cheese cheese is Îs eaten eaten in in summer;
summer; the the ripe ripe cheese cheese in in (November winter winter or or spring
(November to to June). Ero6 Cheese made in the Aridge district, in Erœ made in the
district, in season season between November and and May. May. between November
Ervy-Cheese Ervy - Cheese from from Champagne Champagne whichis whîch is at at its
ilS best best between between Nolember and May. N ovem ber and Ehrvd Semi-hard
Dutch cheese which good is to Écuvé Dutch cheese which is good to eat cat all aU
the year round. the round. Normandy cheese, eaten all Exoelsior Ifv,t'"~h~iN' -
Normandy cheese, eaten ail the the year year round. round. Feullle de de Dreur
Dreux - Cheese Chcese made made in in the the lle-de-France. lle-de-France. It Tt
is good to eat between November and May. is 10 eal betwecn November and Fin de
si0cle - Normandy cheese which is good to eat all de siècle - Normandy cheese whicb
good 10 eal ail the year round. the year round. Fleu Fleur de de Decauville
Decauville-- Cheese Cheese made made in in the the Ile-de-France. ]Ie-de-France. It
Il is good to eat between December and May. IS to eat bctwecn December and May.
Fontire -- Cheese Chcese made made in in Franche-Comt6 Franche- Comté all ail the
the year year round. round. Fourme - Cheese from the Limagne. There are the cheeses
Fourme - Cheese from the Limagne. There are the checses of of Ambert, of of
Montbrisson, Montbrisson, of of Salers, Salers, etc., etc., known known as as
Fourme d'Ambert, Fourme Fourme de de Montbrisson, Alonlbrisson, Fourme Fourme de de
Salers. The latter is sometimes sold under the name of latter is sometimes sold
under the name of Cantal. These These cheeses cheeses are generally al aregenerally
atlheir theirbest fromNovembestfrom NovemCan/al. ber to toMay. May. ber Foutina -
Italian Italian soft, soft, creamy creamycheese cheese used used in in making
making Foutina fondues in in the the Val Val d'Aosta, d'Aosta. fondues Friesche
Kaas Kaas - Soft Soft Outch Dutch cheese cheese in in seaSOn seasonbetween between
Friescbe November and and May, May. November Frinot -- Cheese Cheese made made in
in the the region of of Orléans, Orl6ans, which which is is Frinot in season season
helween between November November and June. in Fromage li la (fresh Wlfennented pie
(fresh la pie unfernrentedcheese) cheese) - Usually Usually Fromage from skimmed
made from skimmed milk milk on on farros farms and and is is for for immediate
immediate made consumption. It It can can also also he be made made in in the the
home home from from whole whole "'VI""~""If'L""'''. milk. The milk milk is is left
left to (12. ta to stand stand in in aa cool cool place (12° to 15°C., 15.C., milk.
c 53' 10 to 59 59'F.). Curdling takes place al takes place at the end end of of 24
24 to to 36 36 53° F.). Curdling hours, through the the action action of of the the
lactic lactic ferment. ferment. Ii It can can also also hours, made with renne!. be
made rennet. he pie is Fromage à d la la pie is eaten eaten fresh, fresh, with with
fresh fresh crcam cream added. added. It may may be seasoncd seasoned wîth with
sugar, sugar, or pepper according or salt salt and and pepper according 11 to
taste, taste, and and a a !iule little chopped chopped chives chives for for added
added flavour. flavour. to Gammel6st -- Norwegian Norwegian all-the-year-round
cheese. cheese. Gammelôst G6r0m6 Cheese made made in in the the Vosges. Its name is
a corGérômé - Cheese ruption of of Gérardmer. G6rardmer. ruptîon It is is made made
from from wbole whole milk milk and and rennet, rennet, and and is is ripened
ripened in Il in cellars for for 4 4 months, months, until until the the crust
crust has has taken taken on on a tawny cellars tawnv colour. Sometimes Sometimes
aniseed, aniseed, fenne! fennel or or caraway caraway seeds seeds are arl colour.
added. Gérômé Ger6m6 is is a a winter winter cheese, cheese, eaten eaten between
between Novemadded. and April. ber and April. ber petitGervais - Well-known Well-
known make make of (See Petitof Petit-suisse. Petit-suisse. (See Gervais sadsse.)
suisse.) Gex - French French blue-veined cheese cheese manufactured al at Gex, Gex
principal town town of of the the Ain Ain département, dipartement, between
November and May, from from unskimmed whole milk, milk, coaguJated coagulated in in
2 and unskimmed whole (77" 1081 hours al at 25° 25' to 27'C. (77° to 8l'F.). hours
to 27°C. OF.). Before it offered for sale, il it is stored for 2 weeks weeks in
Before it is is offcred for sale, is stored for 2 ripening special qualities
develop. ripening cellars cellars where whcre its ilS special develop. The
'blue'which the penicillum selfThe 'blue' which is due due to to the penicillum
glaucum, glaucum, is is sclfgenerating during processing ... ''''''' ..... ''!S and
and appears during processing without without the aid e of any foreign foreign
body. The chief chief characteristic characteristic of of Gex cheese, which which
distinguishes it it from from all ail others, others, is is that that (except
(except for for the blue streaks) streaks) it reremains mains ptrre pure white.
white. It Il takes takes from from 2 2 to to 4 4 months months to to ripen
completely. Gjetiict - Brown-coloured Brown·coloured Norwegian Norwcgian
cheese cheese which wruch can be be eaten eaten all ail the the year year round.
round. It It is is made of goats' goats' milk. milk. Glouctster Gloucester - There
There are are two two English cheeJes checse.s of of this this name: na me : the
famous Double Double Gloucester Gloucester aia Single Gloucester. Gloucester. the
famous Double Double Gloucester. GlouceSler. The The shape shape and size of a
large large grindgrind· stone, stone, it it is is crumbly crumbly in in texture
texture and and has has a a strong strong but but mellow mellow and and delicate
delicate flavour. flavour. It It ripens ripens slowly slowly (this (this process
process takes takes about about 6 6 months) months) and and keeps well. weil.
Single Single Gloucester. Gloucesler. Made during during spring and and summer,
summer, ripens ripens in in about about 2 2 months. months. It 1t is Îs flat fiat
and round, round, similar simîlar to \0 Double Double Gloucester Gloucester in in
shape, shape, and and has has a a soft soft and and open open texture. texture. It
Tt is îs excellent excellent for for toasting. toasting. Ghx Glux - Nivernais
Nivernais cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten ealen all a11 the the vear
year round. round. Goab'milk Goats' milk cheescs. cheeses. FRoMAcE FROMAGE or DE
cntvns CHÈVRE - A A wide wide varietv variety of ofgoats' goats' milk milk cheeses
cheeses are are manufactured manufactured throughout Ihrougnollt France. France.
Occasionally a little Occasionallya liUle cows' cows' milk milk is is added added
due due to to the the growing scarcity scarcity of ofgoats'milk. goals' milk.
Goats'milk Goals: m.ilk cheese cheese is is usually usuallystrongly salted salted
to ta make make it il more more closely c1ose1y resemble rescmblc cows' cows' milk
milk cheese cheese (and (and to 10 preserve it). it). In ]n fact, fact, many many
goats' goalS' milk milk cheeses cheeses are are far far too too salty. Although
this is usually usually eaten eaten fresh fresh it it can can be be preprethis
cheese cheese is served scrved in in various variousways ways and and eaten eaten
when whcn very very mature. mature. (In (In the the Arddche Ardècheitit is
iswrapped wrapped in inwalnut walnutleaves Jeaves or orplaced placed in in
eartheneartbenware warepots.) pots,) Among the milk cheeses cheeses are are the the
the best best known known of ofthe the goats' milk Banon of Provence I-
>rr",,'''n,..,. theCabicou Cabécouof Quercy , the , the theChabichou Chabichouof of

212
CHEESE
Poitou, the theChavignol Chavlgnolof ofBerry Berry('crottins'), ('crot lins'),la
laMothe'Saint' Mothe-SaintPoitou, Hiraye, the Levroux, Levroux, small small Mdcons
Mâcons of of Burgundy, Burgundy, -the the Héraye, the Corsican Niolo, Niolo, the
the Rigottes Rigollesof ofCondrieu, Condrieu, the theRocamadour Rocamadour Corsican
and Saint-Marcellin Saint-Marcellinof ofDauphinl, Dauphiné, the the Valengay,
Valençay, the theSainteSainteand

CHEESE

Maure. Maure. GorgonzolllSemi-hardcheese cheesewhich whichtakes takesits itsname

namefrom from Gorgonzola - Semi-hard little village near near Milan. Milan. It It
is is made made by by a a rather rather complex complex aa [ttlJvillage process.
process. Good Good Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, which which is is aa spring springand
and summer summer cheese, has has a a thin thin rind. rind. The The cheese cheese
should should be be streaked streaked with with iheese. blue, but but not not
excessively, exeessively, and and should should be be yellowish yellowish white
white in in blue, colour. colour. Gouda-- Dutch Duteh cheese cheesemade madefrom
fromwhole wholemilk, milk, very verysimilar similar Gouda to Cantal Cantal but but
there thereis isno no preliminary preliminary fermentation. fermentation. to
Gournay Gournay - French French whole-milk, whoJe-rnilk, soft soft cheese cheese
made made at at Gournay, Gournay, in in Normandy, Nonuandy, and and in in
neighbouring neighbouring districts. districts. At At its best best between between
September September and and June. June. its Gruy0re Gruyère - The The Gruydre
Gruyère valley valley is is situated situated in in the the Fribourg Fribourg
Canton, dominated dominatcd by by the the Mol6son. Moléson. It It has has given
given its its name name to to Canton, a a cheese eheese which which is is also also
made made in in the the Cantons Cantons of of Vaud Vaud and and Neuchâtel. True
True Gruydre Gruyère is is only only made made in in French French
SwitzerSwitzerNeuchAtel. land. land. Formerly, Formerly, only only semi-fat semi-
fat cheeses cheescs or or cheeses eheeses made made from from skimmcd milk milk
were were manufactured, manufactured, the the cream cream being being used used for
for skimmed butter, butter. which whieh could be be economically economieally
exported. exported. Nowadays Nowadays whole whole milk milk Gruydres Gruyères are
are also also made, made, especially especially for for export' export. This This
cheese cheese is often often confused confused with with Emmenthal. Emmenthal.
Sometimes Sometimes cheesemongers advertise 'a 'a genuine genuine Gruydre Gruyère
from from EmmenEmmencheesemongers thal' which whieh is like saying saying 'genuine
'genuine Brie Brie from from Camembert'! Camembert' 1 It It thal' l0 to is made
made in rounds of of 50 to ta 60 kg. (l (110 ta 1301b.). 130 lb.). The The rind
rind is is golden golden brown. brown. The The cheese is is waxy, waxy, more more
or or less less dry dry according according wJtigh ta ug.. age. It is is scored
with with cracks underneath through through which i=o demands of To satisfy the
out. To ooze out. of serum serum ooze drops the demands of the the drof,s of 'eyes'
in which expects 'eyes' in the the cheese, cheese, it it is is proproFrench market
which These appear. These such cessed in su ch a way for export that little liule
holes hales appear. The export export Emmenthal. The in Emmenthal. always smaller
than the holes are always hales in conlocal confor local made for those made than
those salty than less salry also Jess are also cheeses cheeses are excellent this
excellent of this flavour of pungent flavour the pungent To enhance the sumption.
sumption. To pieces in in a a preserve the the pieces to preserve in Switzerland
Switzerland to is usual usual in it is cheese, cheese, it wine. white wine. or
white water or in salted salted water cloth cloth soakcd soaked in mounin the the
mounfactories in in cheese cheese factories manufactured in is manufactured GruyEre
is Gruyère long time time a very very long for a It keeps keeps for pastures' It
the pastures. ilose ta to the tains, tains, close others cheese, others ripe
cheese, a very very ripe demand a connoisseurs demand Some connaisseurs uncut.
uncut. Sorne two the two (q.v.) a mixture of of the a mixture For/ondue fresh. For
it fairly fairly fresh. prefer it prefer fondue (q.v.) required. is normally
normally required. kinds kinds is of triangles of little triangles years now, now,
little For sorne some years di. For Gruyire, Crème Crlme de. Gruyère, paper. in
silver silver paper. wrapped in sold, wrapped been sold, have been proceised cheese
cheese have processed from even from and sometimes sometimes even Comt6 and from
Comté made from is made This This cheese cheese is Gruyère. Gruydre. means of of as
a a means produced mainly mainly as was produced cheese was first, this this cheese
Ai first, At in much in gained so so much has gained it has but il cheeses, but
defective cheeses, up defective using up using made cheese made from cheese
manufactured from is now now manufactured it is poputarity that that it popularity
great number number of of are now now aagreat purpose.There Thereare for the the
purpose. especially ispeciallyfor (called creams) made ffrom creams) made cheeses
(called packaged cheeses processed and and packaged processed rom cheeses. ofbasic
variety of aavariery basic cheeses. the to the appeal to always appeal not always
does not flavour does indeterminate flavour Theii indeterminate Their are They are
explained. They iseasily easilyexplained. success is their success but their
connoisseur, but connoisseur, form, and hygienic hygienic form, convenient and
inaaconvenient packaged in andpackaged processed and proeessed nowaste. waste.
leaving no andleaving norind rindand havingno having are cheesesare Gruydre-type
cheeses ofGruyère-type Anumber numberof deComlé. Comti.A Gruyère Gruyire de For
America. For andin inAmerica. Europeand allover overEurope incountries countriesail
madetoday todayin made inthe the manufactured in hasbeen beenmanufactured
Gruydrehas ofGruyère typeof longtime timea atype aalong now themselvesnow
manufacturers themselves deComté Comt6manufacturers Gruydrede butGruyère Jura,but
Jura, replaced bereplaced Comt6be deComté GruyLtede appellationGruyère insistthat
thatthe theappel/a/ion insist Comt6. byComté. sim ply by simply inseason season
whichisisin Picardy,which fromPicardy, Cheesefrom Guerbigny- Cheese Guerbigny MaY.
andMay. Octoberand between betweenOctober dlpartement cityof ofthe the in Gu6ret,a
a madein Cheesemade Gu6ret- -Cheese Guéret Guéret, city département atils itsbest
best andisis Creusois,and calledCreusois, sometimescalled ofCreuse. Creuse.ItItisis
of sometimes at

between hetweenSeptember Septemberand andJune. June. cheese. Made in Belgium, from

Herv6 Hervé - Soft, Soft,fermented fermented cheese. Made in Bel gi l.lm, l'rom is
curdled with rennet, and drained under great it cows'milk, cows' milk, it is
curdled with rennet, and drained un der great pressure pressurein insquare
squaremoulds. moulds. cellars where the cheeses are Ripening Ripeningtikes
takesplace placein indark dark cellars where the cheeses are one against the other,
covered with placed sides, on their placed on their sidcs, one against the other,
covered with cloths steepedin inbeer. beer. c10thssteeped a mild variety of Herv6
cheese. Best There Thereis isaastrong strongand and a mild variery of Hervé cheese.
Best and MaY. November eaten between eaten between November and May. made at
Huppemeau in the Loire-et' HuppemeanHuppemeau- Cheese Chccse made at Huppemeau in
the Loire-etto Brie. Cher Cher region. region. It It is is somewhat somewhat
similar similar ta Brie. Normandy cheese which is in season from Incheville

Incbeville - Normandy cheese which is in season from November Novemberto ta May.

May. from ewes' or goats' milk. Half the Jonchee - Cheese Jonchée·Cheesemade made
from ewes' or goats' rnilk. Half the leaves. This is mixed with the with milk is
boiled milk is boilcd with a a few few bay bay leaves. This is mixed with the milk.
It is curdled with rennet and remainder remainder of of the the raw raw milk. It is
curdled with rennet and pots. decanted decanted into into little little pots.
cheese which can be eaten all the Kaunas Kaunas - Lithuanian Lithuanian cheese
whieh can he eaten ail the year year round. round. with caraway seeds, which can be
Kummel - Dutch KummelDutch cheese cheese with caraway seeds, which can be year
round. It is also called Leidsche Kaas. all the eaten eaten ail the year round. Il
is also called Leid,che Kaas. This cheese from Burgundy is good (Les) (Les) Laumes
Laumes - This cheesc from Burgundy is good between between October Oetober and and
JulY. July. cheese made in and around Berry, in Lewoux Levroux - Goats' Goats'
cheese made in and around Berry, in December. season season between between MaY May
and and December. is made in the same way as Edam. kyden - Leyden LeydenLeyden
cheese cheese is made in the same way as Edam. cumin, cloves or cinnamon. Some It
Il is is often often flavoured flavoured with with cumin, cloyes or cinna mon.
Sorne prefer Dutch cheese stove-dried. This makes it connoisseurs connaisseurs pre
fer Dutch cheese stove-dried. This makes it its flavour. Leyden is also known as
but creamy less improves its flavour. Leyden is also known as less creamy but
improves Kummel. and Kaas Leidsche Leidsche Kaas and Kummel. fermented cheese made
in Limbourger Limoourger - Semi-hard, Semi-hard, fermented cheese made in The
whole-milk curds are Belgium, and Germany. Germany. The whole-milk curds are
Belgium, Alsace Alsace and parsley and tarragon, put in moulds chives, with kneided
kneaded witb chives, parsley and tarragon, put in mou Ids The surface surface is
made non-porous by sun. The and dried and dried in in the the sun. is made non-
porous by and brushing. salting salting and brushing. has given Calvados in the A
town small Livirot - A small town in the Calvados region Livarot region has given
paste cheese (usually coloured annatto a soft name to its its name ta a soft paste
cheese (usually coloured annatto red). This is an autumn and winter cheese. or deep
deep red). brown or brown This is an autumn and winler cheese. cheese which is in
season between Picardy cheese Manicamp - Picardy Manicamp which is in season
between and July. October and July. October cheese which is full-flavoured Semi-
hard, full-flavoured cheese Mrroilles - Serni-hard, Maroilles which is takes its
name from a village in the and which in shape square square in shape and which
takes its name from a village in the It is is manufactured in Thi6rache and all
over district. It Avesnes district. Avesnes manufaetured in Thiérache and al! over
Picardy. Picardy. are salted, quickly dried and stored curds are The whole-milk
whole-milk curds The salted, quickly dried and stored intervals, the cheese is
turned at frequent where, a cellar in in a cellar where, at frequent intervals, Ihe
cheese is tumed beer' It is at ir best between with and washed brushed, over, over,
brushed, and washed with beer. II is at ilS best between It is is also called
Marolles or Marole. and June. June. It November and November also called Marolles
or Marole. mountains which is in Jura mountains from the the Jura Cheese from
Metton - Cheese Metton which is in to June. October from season season from Oetober
10 June. made in Normandy, good between Cheese made Monsieu - Cheese MonsieW' in
Normandy, good between and June. June. November and Novembcr semi-hard, blue-
veined, round, large, A Mont Ceni~ Cenis - A large, round, serni-hard, Mont blue-
veined, somewhere between a Roquefort and a cheese whole-milk whole-milk cheese
somewhere between a Roquefort and a cellars where it acquires its characincellars
ripensin It ripens Gorgonzola. Il Gorgonzola. where it acquires its
characbluestreaks. streaks. teristic blue teristic had agreat reputation' whichonce
cheese, Montd'Or-This Mont d'Or- This cheese, which once had a grea t reputa tion,
along the banks of the Sa6ne, round Lyons. made be used to uscd ta be made along
the banks of the Saône, round Lyons. goats was used. The cheese was milkof
ofstable-fed stable-fedgoats Onlythe themilk Only was used. The cheese was weeks.
for55ta to66weeks. cellars for incellars ripenedin ripened name is made all over
itsname now bears which Thecheese cheesewhich now bears its The is made ail over
cows' milk and bears very from is manufactured France, France, is manufactured from
cows' milk and bears very tothe the original cheese' The best is made at
resemblance to littlerescmblance original cheese. The best is made at little
Itsseason season lasts from December to April. Montd'Or. d'Or.Ils Mont lasts from
December to April. goats' milk cheese from Francheveined Lightly MorbierMorbier -
Lightly veined goats' milk cheese from Francheand June. October between Good Comt6.
Comté. Good between October and June. cheese in season between Poitou (La) Mothe-
Bougon (La) Mothe-Bougon - Poitou chcese in season between December. Mayand
andDecember. May
-

2t3 213
CHEESE CHEESE
poitou (La) Molhe-Sainl-Héraye Mothe-Saint-Hdraye -- Goals' Goats' cheese cheese
from from Poitou (La) which is is in in season season between between May May and
and November. November. Also Also ealled called whieh Lamothe-Bougon. Lama/he-
Bougon, Munster -- Semi-hard, Semi-hard, fermented, fermented, whole-milk whole-
milk cheese, cheese, Mnnster usually tlavoured flavoured with with caraway caraway
or or aniseed, aniseed. Made Made in in Alsace, Alsace, usually (Upper Rhine), in
the the Munster Munster valley valley (Upper Rhine), it it is is much much prized
prized by by in lovers of of cheese cheese and good belween and is is good between
November November and and ApriL April. lovers Murol -- Cows' Cows' milk milk cheese
cheese from from Auvergne Auvergne shaped like a shaped like a MIIrol small wheel
wheel with with aa hole hole in in the centre. Good the centre, Good between
between October October small and June, June. and Mysiist -- Norwegian Norwegian
cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten ail all the the Mysiisi year
round, round. year Nantais -- This This Breton Breton cheese, cheese, somelimes
sometimes ealled called Fromage Fromage Nantais &t curé, good 10 curi, is is good
year round, to eat eat ail all the the year round. du Neufchf,tel or or Bondon
Bondon -- Small Small French, French, loaf-shaped loaf-shaped cheese cheese
Neufchâtel made from from skimmed skimmed milk, milk, whole whole milk milk or or
wilh with added added crea cream. made m, It is is ripened ripened on on straw
straw bundles bundles in in a a drying drying room room until until a a skin, skin,
lt white at at first and laler first and (first skin), later bluish, bluish, forms
forms on on the the surface surface (firsl skin). white The ripeningis ripening is
then then completed completed in in cool, cool, well-aired well-aired store store
rooms rooms The until a a second second skin forms, this skin forms, this lime time
red red in in colour. colour. The The cheese cheese until is a yellow and rather
dark a rather dark yellow and is is at at its its best best between between October
October and and is June. June, Niolo Corsican cheese, cheese, which which is
particularly good is particuJarly good from from - Corsican Niolo November to to
May, May. November Noekkeliist - Norwegian Norwegian cheese cheese which which can
can be be eaten eaten all all the the Noekkeliislyeard round, round. yeard Olivet
Whole-milk, mould-inoculated mould-inoculated cheese, cheese, made made in in -
Whole-milk, Olivet the small town of small lown of Olivet, Olivet, in in the
Loiret. Il the Loiret, It is is made made of of ewes' ewes' Ihe milk, in (l inch)
in dises discs about about 2!2l cm, cm. (1 (6 inches) inch) thick and 15 thick and
l5 cm, cm. (6 inches) milk, in diameter. The The curd curd is white and and rather
salty. This cheese cheese in diameteL is white rather salt y, This has its season
from from OClober October to to June, June. has ilS season There is is another
another type of Olivet Olivet cheese, cheese, called called Olivet Olivet There
type of Cendrd, which good 10 to eat from October eat from Fresh Cendré, which is
is good October to to June. June, Fresh creamy Olivet Olivet cheese cheese is sold
in in the the summer summer months. creamy is sold monlhs, Oloron Cheese from from
Béarn B6arn also also called called Fromage de la la - Chcese Oloron Fromage de
Vallde d'Ossau,whichshould eaten from Vallée d'Ossau, which should be be eaten from
October October to to May. May, Paladm Savoy, in - Cheese Paladru Cheese made made
in in Savoy, in season season from from NovemNovember ber to to May. May, Parmesan
cheese, which - This Parmesan This famous famous cheese, which keeps keeps for for
a a very very long is made made in in Lombardy Lombardy and and in in the the
Romagna Romagna under under long time, time, is various various names. names, The
The name name 'Parmesan'is 'Parmesan' is used used abroad abroad for for export
skimmed milk. export cheeses cheeses of of this this type. type, It It is is made
made with with skimmed milk, During During the the ripening ripening process,
process, which which is is very very slow, slow, harmful hannful microbes microbes
can can cause cause liquid liqllid patches patch es in in the Ihe cheese, cheese,
which which are are dealt dealt with with by by Italian Italian cheese-makers.
cheese-makers, They They test test the the cheese cheese by by tapping tapping it
il with with a a hammer. hammeL When When they they detect detecl a a soft soft
patch, palch, they they open open up up the the cheese, cheese, cut cut out out the
the diseased diseased section section and and cauterise cauterise the the
'wound'with 'wound' with a a red-hot red-hot iron. iron, The The ripening ripening
period period lasts lasts for for nearly nearly 4 4 years. years, At At the the end
end of of this this process process the the cheese cheese may may be be kept or
even even longer. longer. kept for for a a very very long long time, lime, 20 20
years years or Parmesan Parmesan is is a a hard ha rd cheese cheese which which can
can be be eaten eaten all al! the the year round, It il is is golden golden yellow
yellow in in colour colour and and should should sweat sweal year round. very very
slightly. slightly, Pav6 Pavé de de Moyarx Moyaux - Normandy Normandy cheese cheese
which which is is in in season season from from November November to to June. June,
Pelardon de Ruoms Goats' cheese made in Pelardon de Ruoms - Goats' cheese made in
Arddche, Ardèche, which is in in season season from from May May to to November.
NovembeL which is Petit-suisse Petit-suisse - Very Very creamy, creamy, unsalted
unsalled French French cheese cheese of of the the double-cream double-cream type,
type, small small and and cylindrical cylindrical in in shape. shape, It It is is
made made from from whole whole milk, milk, with with 20 20 per per cent cent
proportion proportion of of fresh fresh cream cream added. added, In ln spite spi
te of of its its name, name, it il was was first first made made not not in in
Switzerland Gournay in in Normandy Nonnandy (Seine-Inferieure). (Seine-Inférieure),
Switzerland but but in in Gournay The The Gervais Gervais Petit-suisse Petit-suisse
is is the the best-known best-known make. make, ManuManufacturing factming this
Ihis cheese cheese is is a a delicate delicate process, process, to 10 which which
the the most most up-to-date up-to-date scientific scientific methods methods of of
production production and and supersupervision vision are are applied. applied,
Picodon madein in the the Dauphin6 Dauphinéwhich which Picodonde de Dieulefit
Dieulefit-- Cheese Cheese made is is in in season season from from May May to to
December. December.
Pithiviers au aufoin foin-- Cheese Cheese made made in Orl6ans region in the the
Orléans region and and Pithiviers ripened on on hay, hay. ln In season from October
season from October to May. to May, ripened (Puy-de-D0me) -- Made Pontgibaud (Puy-
de-Dôme) Made in in the the same way as same way as Pontgibaud Roquefort, but but
from from eows' cows'milk. year round, Eaten aH all Ihe the year round, Roquefort,
milk, Eaten except in in mid-summeL mid-summer. except PontJ'EvQue -- French French
semi-hard, semi-hard, fermented fermented cheese, cheese, POllt-I'Evêqlle made from
from whole whole or or skimmed skimmed milk, milk. lt It is is shaped shaped in in
square square made moulds, salted processed like salted and and processed like the
Bondon or the Bondon or Neufchâtel. Neufchfltel. moulds, It is is ripened ripened
in in cellars, cellars. This This takes takes from from 3 3 to 4 months, months, or
to 4 less or less It if the the cheese cheese is is very very rich rich in in
cream, cream. Pont-l'Evêque PontJ'Ev0que can can be eaten if be eaten year round
the whoJe whole year round except except in in August August but but is is at at
its its besl best the between October October and and June, June. Il It should have
a should have a wrinkled, wrinkled, between greyish-yellow crust crust. The The
cheese pale yellow cheese is yellow in is softish and pale softish and in greyish-
yellow colour. colom, Port-Salut -- A A superb yellow, whole-milk superb creamy,
creamy, yellow, whole-milk eheese, cheese. Pori-Salut It was was first first made
made at Trappist Monastery at the the Trappist Monastery of Port du of Port du
Salut, Salut, Il near Laval. Laval. The The name name of of Port-Salut Port-Salut
was given 10 was given to it it by a by a near company established (Mayenne
département) established at at Entrammes Entrammes (Mayenne dCpartement) company
where il it is is slill still made, made, as as weil well as as in in Trappist
Trappist monasteries monasteries ail all where over the world, according the world,
according 10 to a a secret good secret formula, formula. Il It is is good over
year. throughout the the yeaL throughout Pouligny.Saint-Pierre Famous cheese cheese
made made from from May Pouligny-Saint-Pierre - Famous to December December in in
Berry, Berry. to Puant Macéré Macer6 Cheese from from Flanders, Flanders, in in
season season from Puant - Cheese November till till June, June. November Pultttst
farm eheese cheese which can can be PuJliist - Norwegian mountain fann year round,
eaten ail all the year round. eaten Reblochoncheese made in Sa It is made of Savoy.
of cows' Reblochon - Soft cheese voy, Il milk and is is in in season season from
Oelober October to June, June. milk Recollet de de Gérardmer G6rardmer Cheese from
from the the Vosges, Vosges, in Récollet - Cheese to April, April. season from from
October to Remondur Belgian cheese cheese called called Fromage in Fromage piquant
piquant ln Remondou - Belgian season from season from November November to June.
June, Riceys sometimes called called Champenois Riceys cendr6 cendré Chee se
sometimes -'Cheese which September to June, June. which is in in season from from
September Rigotte creamy goats' CondriellgoalS' cheese of Rigotte de Condrieu -
Semi-hard, creamy the Lyon district which is in season from May Lyon district in
season May to November. November. Rocamadou This community Rocamadour communily in
the Lot, celebrated celebrated for - ThIS its setting and its places of picturesque
setting of pilgrimage, pilgrimage, has given ils picturesque its name to 10 a a
very small ewes'milk ewes' milk cheese which is in season season ils name from from
November November to May. May, Rollot Rollot - Cheese Cheese in in the form fonn of
of a disc resembling Brie and Camembert, and Camembert, although although smaller.
smalleL It lt is is also called Bigolot, Bigolol, and comes cornes from from
Picardy. Picardy, It It is in season season from from October October to May. May,
Romalour Romalour - Cheese from from the the Loire district dislrict which can be
be eaten eaten all aH the Ihe year year round. round, Roquefort Roquefort - The
true true Roquefort cheese, cheese, made made in the the little litlle town that
name ofthat name in in the the Saint-Affrique Saint-Affrique district (Aveyron),
(Aveyron), is is town of manufactured manufactured exclusively exclusively from
from ewes' ewes' milk, milk, sheep sheep being being the the only animais which
which can subsist subsist on on the the arid pastures pastures of of the the only
animals Causses. Causses, Corsica Corsica exports exports a a large large number
number of of cheeses cheeses to 10 the the Causses Causses to 10 be'treated'in be
'trealed' in the the caves caves there. there. The this cheese The unique unique
feature fea t ure of ofthis cheese is is that that the the curds curds are are
mixed mixed with of breadcrumb. breadcrumb, The The bread bread is is dried and and
with a a special special type type of then then ground ground to to a a fine fine
dust, dust, in in which which a a special special greenish greenish mould mould is
is allowed allowed to to develop. develop, To To ensure ensure the the right right
conditions conditions for for ripening are stored stored in in damp, damp, cool
cool caves caves (4" (4° to to ripening, the the cheeses cheeses are 8oC., g0c',
40o 40° to to 47'F.), 47°F,), such such as as the the natural natural caves caves
which which are are to to be be found found in in the Ihe Causses Causses region.
region, After After 30 30 or or 40 40 days, days, the the cheese cheese is is ready
ready for for sale, sale, but but before before it il takes lakes on on the the
pungent pungenl flavour flavour which which makes makes it it so so
soughtsoughtafter after by by the the connoisseur, connoisseur, it il must must be
be left left to to ripen ripen for for a a much much longer longer period. period,
In ln fact, fact, in in the the view view of ofthe the experts, experts, it it
should should be be kept kept for for ayear. a yeaL A good Roquefort Roquefort has
has a a grey grey rind. rind, The Thecheese cheeseis isyellowish, yellowish, A good
very very fatty fatly and and evenly evenly veined veined with with blue. blue, If
If it it is Îs too too white white in in appearance appearance and and chalky
chalky in in texture, lexture, it it is is not not completely complele!y
ferfermented. mented,

2t4 214
CHEESE
The Roquefort Roquefort season season lasts lasts from May to September September
but The it is is eaten all ail the the year year round. round. A number number of
of different different districts districts it in France France produce produce a
Roquefort-type cheese but these may in not be be sold sold under under the the name
name of of Roquefort. not Rouennais - Normandy Normandy cheese cheese which which
is in season from Rouennais October to to May. October Rougeret - Small goats'
cheese made near near Micon. Mâcon. Is also Rougeret under the the name name of of
Maconnet. Maconnet. known under known Saint-Agathon - Breton cheese chee se that
that is is in in season season from Saint-Agathon October to to July. October in
season season from Saint-Florentin - Burgundian Burgundian cheese, chee se, in
Saint-Florentin November to July. It is soft and salty. salty. November chiefly at
manufactured chiefly chee se, manufactured This cheese, Saint-Marcellin - This
principal town town of the the Isdre Isère district, district, was Saint-Marcellin,
principal goats' milk. Today, both milk. Today, from goats' formerly made
exclusively from as a a subare used used as are added 'or br are cows' milk and
ewes' milk are goats' milk. milk. It is in in season between May stitute for for
goats' May and It is season between December. May to Saint-Maure - Touraine cheese,
in from May in season season from Saint-Maure November. It is a creamy, goats' milk
cheese. November. a soft, creamy, and Saint-Rémi - Square cheese made in Franche-
Comté Franche-Comt6 and Saint-Rdmi Haute-Savoie. It is soft and resembles Pont-
l'Evêque. PontJ'Ev6que. Sassenage made in in the the Sassenage - Semi-hard, blue-
veined cheese made Isère; in season season from November to May. Isdre;
Septmonceldcpartement which in the the Jura Jura département Septuoncel - Small
village in has given its name to a comes a Roquefort-type Roquefort-type cheese
which cornes me way from Saint-Claude. as Gex Gex way as is made made in in the
same It is the sa from Saint-Claude. It cheese May. Curds and May. cheese and is at
its best between between November and from put together, together, without are
sometimes milkings are sometimes put from two two milkings mixing, to produce a
'bastard Septmoncel'. as'bastard a cheese cheese known as mixing, Serré in the
residue in the is the The whey, whey, which which is the residue Serr6 or Seray
Seray - The manufacture tains a a certain certain contains still con of cheese,
cheese, sometimes sometimes still manufacture of quantity of casein of casein a
considerable proportion of butter and and a considerable quantity and case where
where is particularly the the case This is albumen. This and soluble albumen.
curdling be (by scalding). The butter butter can can be quickly (by scalding). The
curdling takes place quickly extracted from to become first allowed allowed to and
if it is first whey, and from this whey, acid, By this this with rennet. rennet. By
a second time with second time acid, it it can can be be curdled a means it is the
containing the serum containing possible to the serum is possible to precipitate
the soluble and lactose and from the the lactose and separate separate it from
albumen, and soluble albumen, mineraI and is is used used both both serri and is
called called serré This substance substance is mineral salts. salts. This as food.
animal food. as human and animal In serri the serré Glaris district, district, the
notably in in the the Glaris In sorne regions, notably some regions, (called celery
(called ligger wild celery pounded with with herbs, herbs, wild is pounded ligger
in in German) is in particular. which into slabs made into slabs which particular.
This is dried and made dried and This mixture is are with butter, butter, this this
and mixed mixed with Grated and are called called schabzigger. Grated cheese, in
high high is held held in flavour, is aromatic flavour, a strongly has a strongly
aromatic chegse, which has esteem years, under under the the For sorne some years,
connoissuers. For by sorne esteem by some connoissuers. name and with butter, mixed
with butter, and it has has been been mixed Glaris, it of Crème CrCme de de Glaris,
name of sold paper. wrapped in in silver silver paper. sold wrapped Soumaintrin,
Burgundian Saint-Florentin - Burgundian Soumaintrin, aJso also called called Saint-
Florentin cheese made prime vintage among aU all those those made vintage among
regarded as as the the prime cheese regarded in in Burgundy. valley in Burgundy. in
the Armance valley the Armance It our, yellow in (1 lb.), in col colouro g. (1 is
yellow lb.), is It weighs weighs approximately 500 g. approximately 500 with
yellowish-orange rind, from NovemNovemin season rind, and and is is in season from
with a a yellowish-orange ber ber to to July. July. Soya It is is immemorial. It
from time made in in China China from time immemorial. Soya Cheese made - Cheese
the juices extracted from soya soya in the extracted from of fermentation the
juices fermentation in the result result of beans. beans. The put are put by
soaking, and swollen swollen by soaking, are The beans, beans, softened softened
and through is rnixed mixed with with aa press. The The liquid liquid thus thus
extracted extracted is a press. through a little tes into grey into aa grey It
coagula coagulates magnesium. It little sulphate sulphate oflime of lime or or
magnesium. mass curds. ferment like like curds. mass which which is is left left to
to ferment Stilton cream milk with with cream whole milk from whole made from
cheese made Stilton -- English English cheese added, is The cheese cheese is ripen.
The long time to ripen. very long time to which takes a very added, which takes a
marked not be be cut cut but but It should green streaks. should not grey and
streaks. It with grey and green marked with scooped port should be or port should
be A little little sherry sherry or centre. A out of of the the centre. scooped out
poured into the cheese. poured onto the cheese. and left left to to soak soak into
onto it it and Stracchino goats' cheese. cheese. Italian soft soft goats' Shaccbino
-- ltalian

cheese Stilton cheese Stilton

it

preparation, exexThis preparation, FoRT -- This FRoMAGE FORT cleese. FROMAGE Strong
Strong cheese. well is especially especially weIl and strong-smelling, strong-
smelling, is ceedingly savoury savoury and ceedingly and in in Corsica. Corsica.
districts and and Lyons Lyons districts in the Morvan and liked in grated or milk
cheese, cheese, salt salt or thinly thinly sliced sliced rnilk of grated Successive
layers of put in in a !iule little cream, cream, are are put and mixed mixed herbs,
herbs, and and sometimes sometimes a and jars, which with white white glazed
stoneware which are are filled filled to to the the top top with stoneware jars,
glazed and left left They are are hermetically sealed sealed and laced with with
brandy. They wine laced 2 or weeks to ferment. in a a warm warm place for for 2 or
3 3 weeks to ferment. in given in France to Dutch in France to Dutch T0te de de
mort mort sometimes given Tête - Name sometimes year round. round. all the the year
Edam cheese. Good Goqd aU Edam cheese. varieties of which which several several
varieties Savoy, of Tomme Tomme Cheese of of the the Savoy, - Cheese are in in
Tomme au an fenouil Beauges and and Tomme exist. Tomme de de Beauges ev,rst. Tomme
fenouil are Boudave from from Tomme de de Boudave season from September September
to to June, Jwe, Tomme season from October October to to July. July. popular
variety most popular variety is is of which which the the most Trappistes
Trappistes -- Cheeses Cheeses of Trappist it is is made made by by the the Trappist
Port-Salul, because known known as as Port-Salut, because it There are are several
in the Mayenne. There several monks Port-du-Salut in the Mayenne. monks of of Port-
du-Salut Trappiste de de regions of France: Trappiste other in various various
regions of France: other types types in (Normandy), (Burgundy), Trappiste
Bricquebec (Normandy), Trappiste de de Bricquebec Citeaux Citeaux (Burgundy),
(Picardy), Trappiste Trappiste de Saintede SainteMont-des-Cats (Picardy), Trappiste
Trappiste de de Mont-des-Cats (Savoy). (Brittany) and Trappiste de Tamie (Savùy).
de Tamie and Trappiste Anne-d'Auray Anne-d'Aur,ay (Brittany) year round. round. all
the These These cheeses may be eaten aIl the year cheeses may be eaten

White garnishedwith withradish, radish, White cheese cheese garnished anchovy

andchives chives anchovyand

215 215
CHEESE-RENNET CH EESE- RENNET
Tro0Touraine cheese cheese in in season season from from May to January. Troo -
Touraine TroyesThis creamy creamy soft soft cheese, cheese, res,errlbJ:mg
resembling '-Gl,lll<""U",,' Camembert, Troyes - This is in in seasO,n season from
from November November to It is to May. May. It is also known as is
Barberey. Barberey. Yacherin Soft Soft cheese cheese made made in in the the Jura,
Jura, in in Switzerland Switzerland Vacherinin Franche-Comté. Franche-Comt6. Il and
in It is is in in season season from from November November to and to May. May.
goats' milk cheese Vdengay -- Soft Soft goats' cheese from from the the Berry Berry
district. Valençay district. In season from May to season from December. to
December. ln Vend6me-Thereis a softVend6mecheese, madeinOrl6ans, Vendôme cheese,
made in Orléans, good from which is is good from October October to to June. There
îs June. There is also also a a hard hard which ewes' m.ilk milk cheese cheese
ripened ripened under under ashes, ashes, which good in which îs is good in the
ewes' the same months, and and is is also also called called Vendôme. Vend6me. same
Vestgiitadst - Swedish Swedish cheese cheese which which can can he all Ihe
Vestgotaost be caten eaten ail the year round. year Vic-en-Bigorre -- Béarnaise
B6arnaise winter winter cheese. Normandy cheese at at ilS its best best between
NovemVilledieu - Normandy ber and and May. May. ber VYhite cbeese. cheese. FROMAGE
FRoMAGE BLANC BLANc -- Made Made from f,rom whole whole milk, White treated with
rennet, rennet, and and eaten in summer. eaten fresh În summer. treated preserved
by ",.."'...,,,,.,,,.,., in the drying in by drying the sun sun or preserving or
over over heat, heat, or or hy by preserving in sugar sugar or or in in brandy.
brandy. Jams, Jams, jellies, and and symps syrups are made are made (see JAMS, from
from them them (see JAMS, SYRUPS). They They are are used used for for
distildistil(see KIRSCH), ling (see (see KIRSCH), and and liqueurs liqueurs are are
made made wÎth with them them (see

MARASCHINO).
Their Their stalks, in infusions, infusions, are popular diuretic. stalks, used
used in a popular are a diuretic. Cherries I'allemande I. Cherries Il l'allemande
I. CERISES crnrsns À A L'ALLEMANDE r'llr,Elrll,Nor - Cold Cold hors-d'œuvre hors-
d'ouvre which is is usually usually made made commercially, commercially, but it
can can but it he be prepared in in the the following following way: way: just
ripe, and Destalk morcllo morello cherries cherries which which are are only put
only just and put them them in in a a jar, in in the the same way as gherkins
(q.v.). same way as for for gherkins Cover Cover with with aromatic aromatic
vinegar prepared prepared in in the the following following (7 oz g. (7 way: .. 1
cup) brown way: Put Put 200 2N g. oz.,l a fragment brown sugar, sugar, a fragment
of of stick grated nUlmeg, stick cinnamon, a a little little grated nutmeg, and and
3 3 c10ves cloves into into 1 I pints, generous quart) litre (I~ pints, quart)
vinegar. litre vinegar. Boil, Boil, allow allow to to cool cool and he cherries.
and pour over over tthe cherries. Leave Leave the the cherries cherries in in this
for 15 this for 15 days. ALLEMANDE - Put Cheries è I l'allemande I'allemande U. If.
CEruSES cnnrsns À A 1': r'Arrerr{^ANon the - Put the destalked destalked cherries
cherries in in a a dish dish and and caver cover wîth with brown brown sugar.
sugar. Cook Cook in in a a very very slow slow oven oven until until the the
cherries cherries are are slightly slightly jar and softened. softened. When When
they have cooled, cooled, put them in a a glass jar and cover cover with with
aromatic vinegar, prepared as as above, above, but but using using less brown
sugar. Leave for 15 days before use. Wilh With either method, one can can add
thyme, thyme, bay and tarragon to to taste. Cherries prepared à I'allemande, served
d l'allemande, also under under the served also name of sweef-sour name sweet-sour
cherries, cheties, are used used to to accompany boiled meats and cold meats in in
the same sarne way as gherkins. Cherries Cheries in in brandy. brandy. CERISES
cERIsEs À A L'EAU-DE-VŒ r'n.tu-oE-vn -- Choose we\lwellyet quite ripe. formed
formed cherries cherries not not yet Cut stalks in half ripe. Cut stalks in half
and and jar. Caver arrange the the cherries cherries in a a glass jar. good brandy
Cover with good in which sorne some sugar has been dissolved dissolved ln in the
proportion of (8 oz., g. (8 (scant quart, 225 l cup) sugar l litre litre (seant 225
g. oz., I sugar to quart, generous to I quart) brandy. Hermetically seal the jar.
To obtain cherries less penetrated with Icss witb alcohol, use the following method
method:: Shorten the stalks, stalks, and pierce each cherry cherry with the point
of a a needle needle at al the the opposite end end from from the Ihe slalk. stalk.
Dip Dip in cold water, drain. tbem in a terrine, covering them with a drain, and
put them proportion of syrup made with sugar and water in the proportion of 2 kg.
(4+1b.,9 (scant quart, generous quart) 9 cups) sugar to ta 1 I litre (seant water.
Cover the teruine terrine and leave the cherries (0 absorb tbe cherries to the
syrup for 24 hours. Drain, put them in a glass glass jar and cover caver with the
syrup, syrup. which has been boiled down. After cooling, add 2 2 parts parts brandy
for I 1 part syrup. Seal the the jar jar hermetically. ner'me:t!c:ally with claret.
cla:ret. cERrsEs CERISES AU AU CLARET CLARET - Put 500 g, Cherries with g. Put 5@
(generous (generous I 1 lb.) destalked cherries cherries in a a pan. Cover with red
Bordeaux Bordeaux wine, wine, add add sugar, sugar, and flavour l'lavaur with a
little liule cinnamon. mon. Cook, covered, for l0 Iû to ta 12 minutes on a gentle
heat. Leave the cherries to cool in their syrup. Pour off the wine and boil it down
by a third. Add 3 tablespoons boillt tablespoons (scant * i cup)
l'''',f\~~·h".r'''J jelly, jelly, and and mix well. weB. Pour Pour this (his syrup
syrup over the gooseberry cherries. Serve cold with sponge fingers. fingers. This
This dish dish is is also aIse called Cherry soup soup d il I'anglaise. l'anglaise.
COMPOTE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Prepare Prepare with compote. coMporE Cherry
compote. in the same way way as as Apricot Apricol compote compote (see (sec stond
cherries in COMPOTE). coMPoTE). Cherry Conde. Condé. cERrsEs CERISES coNDE CONDÉ -
Prepare Prepare with with stoned stoned Cherry a vanilla syrup, like Apricots
Apricots Condi Condé (see (sec cherries cooked in a APRICOT). APRTCOT). Cherry
coupecoupe _. See Sec ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. Cherry Cherry crottes.
croOtes. cRoOrBs CROùTE5 Ar.x AUX cERrsEs CERISES - Prepare Prepare with Cherry
slaned cherries cherries cooked cooked in in syrup, syrup, like like Apricot
Apricol crofrte croûte (see (see stoned APRICOT), APRTCOT). Cberry flrn Oan. nlN
FLAN DE DE cBRrsEs CERISES - Pastry shell or flan case case Cherry made with with
sweetened sweetened pastry, pastry, filled filled with with raw raw stoned stoned
cherries, cherries, made and baked baked in in the the oven. oven. Cherry tarts
tarIs or flans flans are are also also preand pdred with wi th crCme crème d à
ltalsacienne alsacienne or or d il laflamandc la flamande (se TARTS). friUers.
BETcNBTS BEIGNETS Aux AUX cERrsEs CERf SES - Stone Stone the the cherries,
cherries, Cherry fritters.

(l|

given to to various - Name given plants, tbe the ftowers flowers and and leaves
leaves of which have the property property of plants, of (Galium verum) curdling
mÎlk. milk. Yellow Yellow bedstraw bedstraw (Galium verum') is curdling is most
most commonly used purpose. used for this purpose. commonly

CHEESE-RENI\IET. CAlLLE-LAlT cATLLE-LAIr CHEESE-RENNET.

CI{EF DE DE CUISINE responsible for for a a kitchen CHEF - Director responsible

(see COOKING). team (see COOKING). team The rôle present-day chef de anisine
corresponds to r6le of the present-day great houses in the old days, and de bouche
bouche in great that of officier fficier de in even even cartier garnisons des
earlier times times 10 to that that of maitre des of maître des garnisons ln grand-
quanx. cuisines royales or grand-queux.

CHEMISER coat a a substance, substance. or a a mould, mould. with a CHEMISER a thin

- To coal jelly. layer of aspic jelly. CHEMIST'S cHEvRxrrE CHEMIST'S JAR. CHEVRETTE
- Oblong faience vase, with a and handle. In In the the old old days large mouth,
projecting spout, and had the right to possess and only chemists chemiS1S (U.S.
druggists) had exhibit this kil'ld kind of of vase in the windows of their shops.
These exhibit jars red or green jars have been replaced replaced by glass jars jars
filled filled with red coloured which chemists chemists stand in their windows, but
stand in colaured water wbich these these ornaments are now tending to disappear
too. loo. The word chevrette a kind of iron tripod Tbe chevre/le also denotes a
tripod on which casseroles and marmites are stood. CHEI\IU applied to a wine
mellowed by CHENU - Colloquial term tenn applîed old age. CIIDRE CHÈRE - Word Word
which used used to ta be be employed mostly in an expression eXr)re~;SI(m La La
Fontaine Fontaine used, used, 'faire chire /ie', meaning 'to smile broadly', 'to
welcome warmly'. wannly'. The expression expression is now l'lOW restricted to 10
the sense of 'offering a good meal', an an integral integral part pan of of any
welcome. welcome. Nowadays Nowadays chire in French French is is a synonym offood.
of food, CHERRY. a tree CHERRY. cERrsECERISE- Fruit of afa tree of of the Rosaceae
Rosaceae family of which which the the numerous numerous varieties varieties stem
stem from from two two primitive
species. species.

Tbe The wild cheruy or bird cherry, originating I"Irlo,r':1t,no in Persia and
Armenia, from from which derive derive the the two IWO sweet sweet cherries,the the
heart hean cherry cherry with soft flesh flesh and and coloured coloured juice, and
and thewhiteheart the whilehean cherry cherry with with hard hard flesh flesh and
colourless colourless juice. There There are are numerous numerous cultivated
varieties, varieties, some some earlycarlyfruiting, which which ripen in May; May;
others late-fruiting, late-fruiting, which which ripen in August or September. The
whiteheart whiteheart cherries are arc usually considered the best dessert dessert
f,ruits. fruits. The slightly slightly bitter bitter early English variety of
cherry is is also also served served as as a dessert dessert fruit. The very bitter
biller morello morello cherries are are used used industrially. îndustrially,
French French cherries are are marketed marketed between between May and and July.
July. Cherries Cherries are are one one of of the the most mast refreshing fruits.
They They can can be be
216

r
CHESTNUTS
soak with liqueur liqueur and sugar, dip in light batter and fry. (See

FRTTTERS.) FRITTERS.) Cherry ice. cllct GLACE AUx AUX cERrsEs CERISES - Pound Pound
I 1 litre (lf (li pints, generous generous quart) quart) stoned stoned cherries or
or crush crush in in a a mortar mortar or blender. Add the pounded cherry kernels
kemels to this pulp. Soak Soak the mixture for I 1 hour in I 1 litre (lf (J i
pints, generous generous quart) quart) I lb., l* pints, generous syrup syrup - 450
450 g. ( (1 lb., 2 2 cups) cups) sugar sugar to I 1 litre litre ((Ii generous
quart) water - flavoured flavoured with kirsch. kirsch. Pass Pass through a a fine
sieve and add the juice juice of I 1 lemon. This preparation preparation should
measure measure 2lo 21° on the syrup gauge. gauge. Freezn CREAMS Freeze the mixture
in the usual way (see ICE CREAMS AND rCES). ICES). Cherry Cherry jam. jam. conrnuRE
CONFITURE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Prepared Prepared with 750 g. (l* (li lb., 6 cups)
lump sugar sugar for each I 1 ke. kg. QI (2t lb.) fruit. If If the fruit is not
very sweet the jam jam is made made with an equal weight of of sugar sugar and
fruit. (See JAM.) . Cherries CERISES JUBIIJ JUBILÉ - Simmer stoned cherries chernes
Cherries jubilee. jubilee. cERIsEs in syrup. syrup. Drain and and put them into
ovenproof dishes. dishes. Boil ~oil down down the the syrup syrup in in which which
they they have cooked, cooked, add add a a little httle cornflour or arrowroot
diluted with cold water, and and pour over over the the cherries. cherries. Add 1
tablespoon warmed kirsch to each dish and flame it at the moment moment of of
serving. serving. Cherry meringue meringue tart or flan with with rice. rice. rI"lN
FLAN DE DE cERIsEs CERISES lasnINcu6ls MERINGUÉES AU Rrz RIZ - Put Put a layer
layer of of Dessert Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE) in a gratin gratin dish,
dish, and add add a thick thick layer layer ofstoned of stoned cooked cooked
cherries. cherries. Sprinkle sugar and top with with meringue. Decorate the top
Sprinkle with sugar with arabesques arabesques in meringue meringue and and proceed
proceed in in the same same way as for Apricots Apricots with rice rice and and
meringue meringue (see (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Cherry mousse mousse - See ICE
CREAMS CREA MS AND AND ICES. Cherry Cherry Cherry surcesauce - See See SAUCE,
Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Cherry Cherry sorff6 soufflé fritters fritters -
See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. soufflé Montmorency. Montmorency. sourni SOUFFLÉ Atrx AUX
cERrsEs, CERISES, Drr DIT Cherry soufl6 MoNrMoRENcy MONTMORENCY - Add 400 g. (14
oz,lf oz., li cups) cups) cherry cherry pur6e purée to 500 g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2|
2t cups) sugar boiled in in I 1 litre litre (1| (Ii pints, 500 g. generous generous
quart) water water to the crack stage. Fold in l0 10 stifly stiffly whisked egg egg
whites. Make Make the the soufl6 soufflé in the the usual usual way way (see (see
SOUFFLE). SOUFFLÉ). The The souffi6 soufflé can can also also be be prepared
prepared with with cream cream (see SOUFFLÉ, Cremn Craon souffiCs). soufflés).
SOUFFLE, soufflé. sourrrJ SOUFFLÉ cuct GLACÉ Atrx AUX cERIsEs CERISES - Use the
Cold cherry souffi6. preparation preparation for for lced Iced cherry cherry
mausse(see mousse (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ANI? ICES). ICES). Tie a fold of
of white paper round round the top of of a a. souffi6 sou~e distr dish to to reach
reach 2l 2-t cm. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) above it, it, and and fill fil 1 with wlth
this thiS mixture. mixture. soufflé has set in the the refrigerator remove the Once
the soufr6 paper. paper. . tart or flan. tlan. rl,,l,N FLAN DE DE cERrsEs CERISES A
A r,l LA plNotse DANOISE Danish cherry tart Danish Fill a shell or flan flan case
with with stoned cherries cherries a flaky pastry shell soaked in sugar sugar and
sprinkled sprinkled with a pinch pinch of of cinnamon. cinnamon. soaked Coyer the
the cherries cherries with a mixture of 100 g. (4 oz., * -t cup) Cover butter, 100
g. (4 oz., * -t cup) cup) sugar, 100 g. (4 oz., oz., I 1 softened butter, cup)
ground ground almonds almonds and and 2 2 eggs. eggs. Bake tart or flan in the oven
oyen at a moderate temperatemperaBake the tart Leave to cool, cover coyer with
gooseberry gooseberry jelly, jelly, and glaze ture. Leave with rum. with rum.
Cherries in vinegar. cERIsBs CERISES AU AU VINNGRE VINAIGRE - Remove the the
Chenies from ripe ripe cherries. cherries. Put them in a glass glass jar, jar,
alternating altemating stalks from stalks layers of cherries with with powdered
sugar, a few few cloves, cloyes, and an? fragments of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Fill
the the jar jar with with these these layers. laye.rs. Boil Bot! fragments white
lemon rinds, rinds, cool, cool, and and pour pour into mto the the white wine wine
vinegar vinegar with with lemon jar. jar. Seal Seal the the jar jar with with a a
cork cork covered covered with with linen. linen.

as they contain contain an appreciable amount of poisonous as they an appreciable

amount of hydrocyanic acid. hydrocyanic acid. CHER VIL. cERFEUIL CERFEUIL stitf
stems and and curly CHERVIL. - Pot-herb with stiff
leaves, cultivated originating in Russia Russia and western western Asia and
cultivated leaves, originating

from the beginning of the Christian era. era. It is used chopped for seasoning.
seasoning. lVild Wild chervil which is called sweet sweet Cecily has darker, less
denticulated, leaves and a more bitter flavour. flavour. Chervil, like
denticulated, parsley, parsley, is rich in Vitamin C. CIIERVIS CHERVIS - Plant
originating originating in China. The very sweet sweet and aromatic aromatic root
was greatly sought after in the old days, but it is no longer much esteemed.
together in a prickly shell. A number of ~f chestnut chestn.ut varieties varieti~s
improved by cultivation. The The species specles of ofwhiCh frUIt exist, improved
which the fruit contains con tains only only a single single large large nut are
called called marrons. marrons. According to an analysis analysis carried out by M.
Baland, roast According chestnuts chestnuts (that (that is chestnuts chestnuts
cooked dry) dry) retain retain 40 per per cent of their moisture; moi sture;
boiled, boiled, they retain 70 per per cent. . their Dried chestnuts only only
retain retain 12 12 to to 15 15 per per cent cent of their thelr Dried moisture
moisture and contain contain as much nitrogen nitrogen as wheat. Chestnuts have
considerable food value. value. l* l-t kg. kg. (3+ (3t lb.) an average supply
sufficient calories to satisfy the needs of .an aver~ge person. person.
Unfortunately Unfortunately chestnuts chestnuts also also contain conta.In. a high
hlgh percentage percentage of starch, starch, which is is difficult difficult to to
asslmIiate assimilate and them indigestible indigestible for for many many people.
Moreover, the makes them small small quantities quantities of Vitamins Bl BI and
and C C they they contain c~nt~in are cooking. On the other hand their thelr
richness nchness destroyed during cooking. in mineral minerai salts (particularly
calcium calcium and potassium) makes excellent food for growing growing children.
children. them an excellent Chestnuts are are preserved preserved by drying,
drying, and flour flour is made from Chestnuts which is white white with red red
particles here here and them. This flour, which of the outer outer skin) in
inferior inferior types, has a sweet sweet there (debris of agreeable smell, and
and makes a non-elastic paste flavour, an agreeable when combined with water. It It
is used used to to make make various dishes. when Briloli. Bri/oli. A kind of
porridge made with chestnut flour to which milk milk or cream cream is added.
added. which Castagnacci. Thick fritters, using using chestnut flour. Castagnaccf.
Ferinana. This is briloli briloli with oil added. added. Ferinana. Pislicine.
Pislicine. Cake Cake prepared prepared with with chestnut chestnut porridge
porridge fermented flavoured with aniseed. yeast and flavoured with yeast Polenta.
This is obtained obtained by by throwing throwing sieved sieved chestnut chestnut
flour Polenta. boiling water and mixing with a spatula into lightly salted boiling
the paste no longer longer adheres to the sides of of the cooking cooking until the
Pour onto onto a floured floured cloth cloth and cut into slices. These are dish.
Pour eaten as as they are, are, with with Broccio (Corsican (Corsican cheese),
cheese), either eaten grilled, or fried. (See POLENTA.) POLENTA.)

CHESTNUTS. csArarcNss CHÂTAIGNES - Chestnuts grow grow two or three three

CIIESTNUTS.

a
-

CIIERRY CHERRY BAY BAY (U.S. (U.S. CHERRY LAITREL). LAUREL). LAURTERLAURIERceRIsE-
The CERISE- The leaves leaves of ofthis shrub emita emit a smell smell
ofbitteralmonds ofbitter almonds this shrub when when they they are are rubbed
rubbed between between the the fingers. fingers. They are used used to flavour
creams of of various various kinds, kinds, but but must must be be used used
sparingly sparingly flavour creams
217 217

Peeling Peeling chestnuts chestnuls on on domed domed facc face

(Claire) (Claire)
CHEVALER
porridge to Tourte. This This is a porridge is a which aniseed aniseed with with
pine to wbich TourIe. poured into a kernels and and dried is poured dried raisins
have been added. It is a kemels baking dish dish and cooked in the oyen. oven.
haking peel chestnuts, To peel chestnuts, slit the surface chestnuts on slit the
surface of of the the chestnuts on the the To a baking domed face. face. Put Put
them in a with a a little little water. them in tin with baking tin domed Roast in
in tbe the oyen oven for 8 8 minutes. Peeltbem Peel them while tbey they are still
still hot. chestnuts as indicated above. Another method is to slil slit the
chestnuts Another a few few at a a time, into boiling fat fat and deep-fry for 2
Put them, a minutes. Drain. Peel them them while they are still hot. bot.
BAReuErrEs AUX barquettes BARQUETTES Aux MARRONS MARRoNS - Line Chestnut
barquettes. Chestnut 1(see barquette tins witb with Fine dough 1 DOUGH). Bake
barquelle Fine pastry paslry dough (see DOUGH). purle of marrons When they are
ready, fill tbem blind. Wben them with a a purée glacis (or (or purée pur6e of
chestnuts chestnuts cooked cooked in milk) flavoured with glacés kirsch. lce Ice
the barquelles barquettes with kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured Fondant icing
kirscb. ICING). (see KING). chestnuts in MARRoNS BOlllLLlS BoUILL$ Boild chestnuts.
MARRONS BoilOO - Put the chestnuts a pinch a saucepan and and coyer cover with with
cold cold water. Season Season with a a a littte little celery, with a celery, star
star anise, anise, Chinese and flavour flavour with salt and of salt any other
spice. anise or any Cover and simmer simmer gently for 45 minutes Bring to the
boil. Coyer chestnuts and serve wrapped in a I hour. Drain the chestnuts a folded
to to 1 napkin, or in a wooden bowl covered with a napkin. napkin. Braised
chestnuts. MARRONS MARRoNs eRArsfu chestnuts. BraisOO chestnut~. BRAISÉS Peel the
the cbestnuts. - Peel a buttered dish. Put into Lay them flat in a ioto the middle
of the bouquet garni with plenty of celery. celery. Season. Season. Pour in a dish
a bouquel and veal stock. stock. Cover thin of concentrated veal Coyer the the pan
pan and thi.n layer layer of cook in in the oven without without stirring, so so as
the oven cook as not not to to break break the chestnuts. chestnuts. in this
Chestnuts prepared in tbis way are used as a a garnish for various main dishes.
compote. COMPOTE Chestnut coMporE DE Cook the Chestnut compote, DE MARRol.Is
MARRONS - Cook chestnuts in a a light light syrup flavoured with vanilla. serve,
chestnuts vanilla. To serve, pour the cooking syrup (boiled down if if necessary)
over the chestnuts. ehestn uts. They can be served served either hot cold, and may
be flavoured They bol or cold, with liqueur. liqueur. confection. pAtE Chestnut
confection, Chestnut PÂTÉ os DE MARRoNS MARRONS -- 'Shell the chestnuts, nuls,
blanch, blancb, peel off the skin, pound in a stone slone mortar and clariff the
weigh. Separately, Separately, clarify Ibe same amount of sugar, cooked offthe to
ball bail degree. Take off the heat and mix with witb half half its weight of
apricot of apricot jam jam or apple apple jelly. jelly. Stir, Stir, combine all the
the ingredients, a slate slab or a metal of 2 or 3 spread on asiate met al sheet to
a thickness thickness of lines (see WEIGHTS WEIGHTS AND AND MEASURES) and and put
put into a oven until dry. On the following day, cut slow oYen eut into squares,
lay lay out on on a sieve, sieve, turning tuming them tbem from from time time to
time. time. When they tbey (le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) are quite dry store in
boxes.' (le moderne.) cRoeuETTEs DE Chestnut croquettes Chestnut croquettes.
CROQUETTES DE MARRoNS MARRONS - Chop marrons glacisvery finely. Chestnuts marrons
glacés very finely. Chestnuts boiled boiled in in milk sweetened with vanilla sugar
may may also be used. used. Blend Blend with thick thick French French pastry
paslry cream (see (see CREAMS). CREA MS). Spread the tbe mixture mixture on on a
baking baking sheet. sheel. Leave Lea ve to cool. coo 1. Divide the mixture into
small portions. portions. Flour Flour each eacb piece and dip in egg and freshly
made breadcrumbs. Deep-fry in clarified butter. Serve Serve with with Apricot
ApriCOI sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) clarified butter. flavoured flavoured with
kirsch. coNrtruRr DE MARRoNS Chestnut Cheslnul jam. jam. CONFITURIJ MARRONS - Make
Make a chestnut pur6e purée with with milk milk or water. water. Put it it in in a
a bowl with an an equal egual weight of of sugar, a vanilla pod pod and I 1 dl. (6
(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant ! cup) water to every I 1 ke. kg. Qt (2±
lb.) lb.) of the mixture. Warm 1 gently, stirring constantly. constantly. The The
jam jarn is ready ready if if it comes cornes away away from the bottom botlom of
of the pan pan when when stirred. To ensure longer preservation, put put the jam
jam in special special jars jars and sterilise as for bottled bottled fruit. fruil.
Marrors Marrons glaces glacés - Marrons Marrons glacds glacés are first lirst
preserved preserved and and then then glazed. glazed. This This is is a long long
and intricate intricate process process and is is theretherefore fore seldom seldom
undertaken undertaken in in the the home. home. Chestnut Mont-Blanc (sweet (sweet
dessert). dessert). MoNT-BLANc MONT-BLANC AUX AUX
chestnuts, leaving the inner skin. Cover skin. Coyer - Shell the chestnuts, with
water and bring to the hoil. boil. Remove the inner skin. skin. Sim mer the Simmer
the chestnuts chestnuts unlil until soft in milk, milk, with with sugar and soft in
sugar and vanilla. Drain and rub them a large them through a wire sieve over a ring
baking tin, lined with the tin, so so that that the sides of of the tin tin are
lined pur6e, which will look like vermicelti. sieved vermicelli. sieved purée, Tum
Turn this horder a dish. it is quite cold, fil! fill border out onto a dish. When
il (see CREAMS) flavoured the the centre centre with with Chan/illy cream (see
Chantilly cream with vanilla. Shape Shape the cream into a dome. puneE DE puree.
PURÉE DE MARRONS MARRoNs Chestnut Shell the the chestnuts, chestnuts, Chestnut
purée. - Shell leaving the inner skin intact. Plunge Plunge them into boiling
boiling water, and skin. in white white stock seasoned a lîttle little drain,
drain, and skin. Cook Cook in seasoned with a pur6e celery. Drain, and rub through
a fine Warm Ihis through a fine sieve. Warm this purée a saucepan, stirring
constantly. Just in in a Just before serving, serving, add fresh butter hutter and
a a few few tablespoons fresh cream. puree soup or cream creamBROTHS, Chestnut
purkesoupor -seeSOUPS see SOUPS AND BROTHS, Purée soups. Pur6e Chestnuts and rice.
BORDURE BoRDURE DE MARRONS MARRoT{S AU RIZ RIz - Peel the chestnuts and cook in a a
light light syrup flavoured with vanilla. vanilla. chestnuts and cook in pyramid
surrounded by in a Drain, Drain, and and arrange arrange Ihem them in a pyramid by
a prepared as for Apricols horderofrice Apricots Condé(seeAPRICOT). Conde (see
APRICOT). border of rice prepared Decorate the the top and of the the horder border
with with crystallised fruit fruit and top of (see SAUCE) sauce (see halved
almonds. almonds. Serve with Apricot Apricol sauce halved Serve with flavoured with
kirsch. Lightly eut a ring Roasl MARRONS GRILLÉS· cut a Roa$ chestnuts. MARRoNS
cRnrfs Lightly chestnuts. Roast them in a a pan round the chestnuts. pan on round
on hot embers or all are are thoroughly the stove, tossing tossing them frequently
so that that aH tboroughly on the cooked. Chestnut DE MARRoNs MARRONS - Make a
Chestnut soufflé. soufr6. SOUFFLÉ sourrrj DE a chestnut puree with purée witb stock
stock or milk, and use for a soufflé, souffi6, proceeding as souffii (see SOUFFLÉ).
for PolalO souffié for Potato SOUFFLE). pouDrNG SOUFFLÉ sorfi6. POUDING sourrrE AUX
AUx MARRoNS Sweet chestnut soufflé. MARRONS (2+ lb.) chestnul~ Peel 1 kg. (2i Peel
I chestnuts and eook cook them in a light syrup, flavoured with vanilla. Add to
this pur6e, purée, while stirring it on (5 oz., moisture, 150 g. g. (5 oz.,
generous the stove to evaporate the moisture, (4 oz.,i cup) fine sugar and ~cup)
butter. and 100 g. (40z., cup) butter. i~cup) Remove the pan from the stove and and
blend in 8 egg yolks. Whisk 6 egg whites until they are are very stiff. Blend them
in at Whisk las! minute. minute. the last mixture into into a buttered mould.
mould. Put Put the the mould in a Pour the mixture pan of Serve with custard (q.v.)
(g.v.) of water and bake in the oven. Serve zabaglione (q.v.). or zabaglione
garnish. umnoNs a garnish. StewOO chestnuts as as a MARRONS fruvps ÉTuvÉS poun POUR
Stewed chestnub GARNITURE bultered pan. chestnuts. Put them in a buttered cARMTURE
- Peel the chestnul~. Coyer with clear vegetable dishes, Cover clear white stock
(or, for fish or vegetable 1 teaspoon teaspOOl1 fine sugar and a with water). Add a
pinch of of salt, I celery. stick of celery. Coyer and leave to simmer very Bring
rapidly to the boil. Cover slowly for 45 minutes. slowly Serve Serve as indicated
indicated in the recipe for the main dish. dish.
MARRONS MARRol.Is -

-
-

CHEVALER Term indicating the the symmetrical arrangearrangement of of the tbe

various various elements elements of of a dish placed one upon the tbe other.
covered covered with wafer-thin wafer-tbin slices slices of of fat pork or butter,
butter, on which wbich cbicken filets fi/els mignons mignons (breasts) (breasts)
are are placed placed to give give them them a chicken correct shape while wh.ite
cooking. cooking.

CHEVALET - A A slice of bread trimmed en en chevalet chevalet and and

CIIBVRET CHEV RET - See CHEESE. CHEESE.

CHEVRIER - A type of of haicotflageolet haricotfiageolel (bean) which which stays
CHEVRIER-A green. Cultivated especially in the neighbourhood neighbourhood of of
Arpajon, jon, it bears bears the the name name of of the originator originator of
this this variety. variety. (See BEAN.) BEAN.) CHEVROTIN - See CHEESE. CHEESE.
CHEYROTIN

CHEVROTTON CHEVROTTON DE DE MACON_ MACON - See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

2t8 218
CHICKEN

CHIANTI CHIANTI
wrNES.) WINES.)

Tuscany Tuscany wine. wine. (See (See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL

CHICHA CHICHA - Mexican Mexican and and Central Central American American alcoholic
alcoholic
beverage beverage obtained obtained from from the the fermentation fennentation of
of maize maize flour.

CHICKEN. CHICKEN. pouLETs, POULETS, pouLARDEs, POULARDES, voLATLLE vOLAILLE -

Chicken Chicken is the generic generic term term used used to to describe the the
barnyard barnyard fowl fowl and and includes everything from from the the very
young young chicken (poussin) (poussin) to to c1udes everything the the large large
hen hen suitable suitable only only for for the the stockpot. stockpot. The The
young chickens chickens (poulet (poulet de de grain grain and poulet poulet de de
reine) weigh from 600 600 to to 1800 1800 g. g. (l| (1 t to to 4lb.). 4 lb.).
Poulet Poulet gras gras weigh weigh from 1800 1800 g. to 2 2 ke. kg. (a (4 to to 4|
4t lb.), lb.), and and fat fat hens hens or roasting roasting chicken chicken weigh
from from 1800 1800 g. g. to to 3 3 kg. kg. (4 (4 to to 6+ 6! lb.) lb.) or more
more and and are are called ca lied poulardes poulardes in in French. French.
Recipes Recipes for for the the different different kinds kinds of chicken chicken
are are grouped grouped together together in in alphabetical alphabetical order in
this this section. section. A A good good poulet poulet has has tender tender
flesh, flesh, elastic, elastic, but but not not flabby; flabby; the the feet feet
can can be be black black or or white white according according to to the the
breed, breed, but but never never yellow. The comb comb should should be be small
small and and unformed, unformed, the the skin yellow. The loose loose and and
white, white, and and the the parson's parson's nose nose white white or or pinkish
pinkish with with a a knob knob offat of fat above above reaching reaching the the
backbone. backbone. Chicken Chicken flesh flesh can can replace replace meat meat
and and when when grilled grilled or or roasted roasted is is suitable suitable for
for all aIl diets. diets. Chicken Chicken in in sauce. sauce, chicken with with
mushrooms, mushrooms, or or creamed creamed chicken chicken are are less less so.
so. Try to to avoid avoid buying'battery' buying 'battery' chickens. chickens. The
The principal principal types types of of French French hens hens are are those
those of of Bresse, Bresse, Houdan, Houdan, La La Fldche, Flèche, Crdvecoeur,
Crèvecoeur, Barbezieux, Barbezieux, Faverolles Faverolles and and Le Le Mans. Mans.
General General cooking cooking instructiore instructions for for chicken chicken -
When Wh en braising braising chicken chicken there there should should be be as as
little little as as possible possible of of cooking cooking liquid, liquid, so so
as as not not to to dissipate dissipate the the delicate delicate flavour. flavour.
Sauces Sauces accompanying accompanying braised braised fowl fowl are are made made
with with the the liquor liquor in in which which it it was was cooked, cooked,
strained, strained, all ail grease grease skimmed skimmed off, off, and and
finished finished according according to to the the recipe. recipe. Boiled Boiled
orpoached or poached chicken chickenis iscooked cooked in in white white stock
stock (chicken (chicken or or veal) veal) or or in in a a light light beef
beefstock. stock. A A savoury savoury stock stock can can be be made made with with
the the neck, neck, head head and and crop, crop, and and the the feet, feet,
cooked cooked in in water water with with aromatic aromatic vegetables vegetables
and and the the usual usual seasonings. seasonings. Boiled Boiled chicken chicken
is is accompanied accompanied by by white white or or light light sauce, sauce,
made made with with the the liquor liquor in in which which it it was was cooked.
cooked. A A white white roux roux should be be made made in in advance, advance,
with with butter butter and and flour flour cooked cooked should gently gently
together together without without colouring, colouring, and and moistened moistened
with with sorne of ofthe the chicken chicken broth broth when when the the mixture
mixture is is about about threethreesome quarters quarters cooked. cooked.
Different ways ways of of finishing finishing these these sauces sauces are are
given given in in the the Different Iist of of white white sauces sauces (see (see
SAUCE, SAUCE, Compound Compound white white sauces). sauces). list Chicken baked
baked in in butter butter (cooked (cooked in in the the oven oyen in in a a covered
covered Chicken dish) is is accompanied accompanied by by the the cooking cooking
juices juices skimmed skimmed of of fat, fat, dish) diluted, and and thickened.
thickened. Cream Cream is is sometimes sometimes used. used. diluted, Chicken baked
baked d à la la Matignon Matignon is is accompanied accompanied by by the the
Chicken juices diluted cookingjuices dilutedwith withwine, wine, blended blended
with withveal veal or orchicken chicken cooking stock, and and bound bound with
with rich rich brown brown sauce. sauce. The The garnish garnish for for a a stock,
chicken dish dish is is either either cooked cooked with with the the chicken
chicken or or prepared prepared chicken separately, according according to to the
the recipe. recipe. separately, ln none none of ofthe the recipes recipes that that
follow follow should should all ail the the sauce sauce be be In usedto tocoat
coatthe thebird. bird.A A very verylittle little only only should should be be
poured poured over over used it, and and the the rest rest served served
separately. separately. it, Sorneinstructions instructionsfor forcooking
cookinglarge large fowls fowls call cali for for stuffings stuffings Some
andprepared preparedmixtures. mixtures. Recipes Recipesfor for these thesewill will
be be found found under under and FORCEMEAT. FORCEMEAT. In garnished garnished
chicken chicken dishes, dishes, particularly particularly those those served served
at at In large dinners, dinners, the the bird bird is is often often left left
whole. whole. This This calls calls for for a a Iarge decorative presentation.
presentation. It It is is important, important, however, however, that that the the
decorative garnish should should not not cancel cancel out out the the flavour
flavour of of the the dish. dish. garnish Garnishesshould should be bearranged
arrangedso so that that the thebird birdcan can be be quickly quickly Garnishes
carved. Do Donot not set setall all the the accompaniments accompaniments on on the
the main main dish dish carved. but use use only only a a small small part part as
as a a garnish, gamish, and and serve serve the the rest rest but
219 2t9

separately when handing the sauce, all piping hot. separately In set the the fowl
fowl on In making making an an ornamental arrangement set on a a base order to to
keep keep it it separate separate from from the fried bread in in order base of
fried garnish. garnish. To bake chickens and capons capons in in butter. Clean,
truss To truss and and bard the bird. Put in a a heavy-bottomed heavy-bottomed pot,
pour melted butter over it, season, and cook quickly few moments over a a good
quickly for a a few heat. Finish oven, covered, covered, basting Finish cooking
cooking in the oyen, basting frequently with its butter. Garnish Garnish according
to the the recipe. recipe. Serve with its cooking cooking juices juices diluted
according to the the particular recipe. To bake chickens chickens and capons capons
d à la Matignon. Matignon. Clean, draw, truss and bard the bird. Put it in a a pan
whose base is lined with Matignon Matignon (q.v.) half-cooked half-cooked in
butter. butter. Pour Pour melted butter over, season, and cook covered in the oven,
frequently with its butter. butter. oyen, basting frequently When the chicken is
cooked and golden brown, moisten with concentrated veal or chicken stock and baste
with this juice. juice. Garnish and and serve serve with with its its own own
cooking cooking juice, juice, diluted according according to the recipe. recipe.
(old style). To To bake bake chickens chickens and capons d à la la Matignon
Matignon (old Crisp in butter the the flesh flesh of a fowl prepared as as for
braising. Crisp Coyer it it in a thick thick layer of of Matignon Matignon (q.v.);
bard and wrap it Cover a sheet sheet of of buttered paper. Cook Cook in the oven
oyen or on the spi t. in a spit. Unwrap the the chicken, chicken, take take off the
the bard bard and and remove remove the Unwrap Matignon. Put Put the bird bird in a
saucepan, saucepan, pour over Madeira. Madeira. Matignon. Boil down down the the
liquid liquid and and add add veal stock that has been boiled boilcd Boil down and
and thickened. thickened. Remove Remove all ail fat and strain. down Garnish
according according to to the the recipe recipe and serve serve with its cooking
cooking Garnish liquor. liquor. recipes given given below below can can be be
augmented by by serving serving The recipes braised, boiled boiled or baked baked
chicken chicken with different vegetables, vegetables, braised, with pasta pasta
and and with with other other garnishes. garnishes. with

Braised chicken chic ken Braised

To braise braise chickens chickens and and capons. capons. Draw, Draw, singe,
singe, clean c1ean and and truss truss To
the bird. bird. Dip Dip it it for for a a moment moment into into boiling boiling
stock stock to to solidify solidify the the flesh, flesh, then then lard lard the
the breast breast with with bacon bacon fat, fat, truffies, truffies, or or the
tongue. tongue. Coyer the the breast breast with with a a bard bard of of bacon
bacon fat fat big big enough enough to to Cover protect this this delicate delicate
part part of of the the bird bird during during cooking cooking so so that that
protect it does does not not become become too too dry. dry. Brown Brown the the
chicken chicken in in a a hot hot oven, oyen, it and then then put put it it into
into a a heavy heavy braising braising pan pan with with the the ingredients
ingredients and used for for braising braising white white meat meat (see (see
CULINARY CULlNARY METHODS, METHODS, used Braising). Braising). Pour in in the the
liquid liquid indicated indicated in in the the recipe, recipe, bring bring to to
the the boil, boil, Pour coyerthe thepot, pot, return return to to the the oven
oyen and and cook, cook, basting basting frequently. frequently. cover Drain the
the chicken, chicken, remove remove the the bard bard and and trussing trussing
string string Drain and glazn glaze in in the the oven, oyen, basting basting it it
with with the the cooking cooking liquor. liquor. and Set it it on on a a slice
slice of of fried fried bread bread (or (or directly directly onto onto the the
plate), plate), Set garnish, and and serve serve it it with with a a sauce sauce
containing containing the the liquid liquid in in garnish, was cooked. cooked.
which it it was which
CHICKEN CHICKEN
How Howto totruss trussaachicken chicken

1. Pierce Pierce with with threaded threaded trussing trussing needle needle the
the left left thigh, thigh, the the breast breast and and the the right right t.
thigh thigh

2. 2. Lay Lay the the chicken chic ken on on its its left left side side and and
sew sew through through the the right right wing wing

3. back and pierce the left wing. wing. pierce the the back side; cross cross the
is on on its its right right side; The chicken chicken is 3. The

tie !hem them ofstring 4. Bring Bring the two ends of 4. string together and tie

5. the and under under the part of the drumsticks drumsticks and lower part of the
the lower Pass the needle through through the 5. Pass the needle breast right from
left left to to right breast from

right to to left left from right part of body from pierce the lower part of the the
body the lower Next pierce 6. 6. Next

7. the string tiethem them andlie ofthe stringand endsof Pullthe thetwo twoends
7.Pull

roast braiseor orroast tobraise readyto trussed, ready andtrussed, bardedand 8.

Chicken 8. Chickenbarded

220 220
CHICKEN CHICKEN
Carving Carving a chicken chicken into portions portions

l. Raw chicken: dlicken: first remove remove the the right right leg L

2. Remove Remove the the right right wing wing

3. Place chicken on right side and rem ove the left leg remove

Remove the left wing 4. Remove

5. 5. Cut Cut away away the fl1lets fillets on eilher either side side

in half half 6. Cut Cut the the carcase carcase in 6.

7. 7. Roast Roast chicken is eut in the the same same way. way. cut up up in
chicken is

in half A sm can he be eut cut in halflengthwise 8. A srnall chicken can 8. ail

chicken lengthwise

22r 221
CHICKEN
To poach poach or boil chickens chickens and and capons. Clean and truss the

bird. bird. Rub the the breast and legs with a slice of of lemon to keep
them white. white.

Lard or stud stud the the breast with fat. fat. Cover with wilh a bard bard of
bacon bacon fat. fat. Bring Dring to to the boil boil in white white stock stock
and cook cook quickly quickly for for a few moments. moments. Skim, Skim, cover
coyer the the saucepan, saucepan, and simmervery simmer very slowly. slowly. To
test test whether wh ether the chicken is is cooked, prick prick a fleshy fleshy
part part with wi th the point of of a knife. knife. If If a clear clear juice
juice escapes esca pes it is is done. done. Drain Drain the the chicken, then
remove remove the bard bard and the the trussing trussing
string. Garnish and and serve with with a white white sauce to which which is is
added added some of of the the liquor liquor in in which which the the chicken
chicken was was cooked. Chicken Chicken i à I'allemande. J'allemande. poULARDE
POULARDE A À t',qneMnNoE L'ALLEMANDE - Poach Poach the the chicken in in white
stock. Coat Coat with with Allemande Allemande sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA U CE) to
to which which part part of of the the boiled-down boiled-down cooking liquor 1iq
uor has been added. added. Chicken Chickeo Ambassadrice. Arnbas."adri ce. poULARDE
POULARDE AMBASs^A.DRrcE AMBASSADRICE - Stuff the the chicken chic ken with a
mixture mixture of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies truffies and
and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with with Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Cook Cook it it covered, covered, in in the the oven, oyen, d il la
/0 Matignon. Matignon. Surround with with pastry pastry cases cases filled filled
with with saut6ed sautéed chicken livers, truffie heated livers, cocks'combs cocks'
combs and kidneys. kidneys. Put Put a slice of oftruffie heated in in butter butter
on on each. each. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with the the cooking
cookîng juices juices diluted with with Madeira Madeira and and thickened thickened
brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Chicken Chic ken ià I'andalouse. l'andalouse.
poULARDE POULARDE A À r'ANoAlousr L'ANDALOUSE - Stuff the the chicken chicken with
wi th rice rice mixed mixed with wi th small small pieces pieces of of lean lean
ham ham and and seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Cook Cook in in
butter butter in in a a heavy heavy pan, pan, adding adding (for (for flavouring)
flavouring) one one large large onion and and a a bouquet bouquet garni garni
(q.v.). Serve Serve garnished garnished d à I'andalouse tanda/ouse (q.v.). (q.v.).
Surround Surround the the chicken chicken with with this trus garnish garnish and
sprinkle sprinkle with with juices diluted its its cooking cookingjuices diluted
with with white white wine, wine, to to which which thickened thickeoed brown brown
veal veal gravy gravy and and tomato tomato pur6e purée have have been been added.
added. Chicken Chicken ià I'anversoise. l'anversoise. poULARDE POULARDE A À
r'ANveRsorsn L'ANVERSOISE - Stuff Stuff the Hop shoots shoots (see (see HOPS) HOPS)
in in cream. cream. Simmer Simmer in in the chicken chicken with with Hop butter
butter in in a covered covered dish dish until until the the bird bird is three-
quarters three-quarters cooked. cooked. Transfer Transfer to to a a casserole
casserole with with 400 400 g. g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.) potatoes, pOlatoes, lightly
lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Complete Complete cooking cooking in in
the the oven. oyen. Pour Pour a a small small quantity quantity of of the the pan
pan juices, juices, diluted diluted with with white white wine wine and and
thickened thîckened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, over over the the
chicken. chicken. Serve Serve in in the the casserole. casserole. Chicken Chicken
in in aspic. aspic. IoULARDE POULARDE EN EN Asprc ASPIC - Cut Cut the the breast
breast and and wings wings of of a a cold, cold, boiled boiled chicken chicken into
into thin thin slices, slices, and and coat coat with with White White chaud-froid
chaud-froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with with
trufres trumes andglaze and glaze with with chicken chicken jelly. jelly. Set Set
these these pieces pieces in in an an aspic aspic mould mould that that has has
been been lined lined with with a a layer layer of of jelly. jelly. Fill Fill the
the middle middle of of the the mould mould with with Chicken Chicken mousse (see
MOUSSES) MOUSSES) made made of of the the flesh flesh of of the the chicken chicken
legs legs mousse (see with with the the addition addition of offoie foie gras.
gras. Fill Fill the the mould mould with with the the aspic aspic jelly, jelly,
leave leave to to cool, cool, and and chill chill on on ice. ice. Turn Tum out out
onto onto a a dish, dish, or or raised raised on on a a crofiton croûton of of
bread. bread. Garnish Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. jelly. Chicken à
I'Aurora. l'Aurora. poULARDE POULARDE A À r'lunope L'AURORE - Poach Poach the the
Chicken il chicken chicken in in white white stock. stock. Coat Coat with with
Aurora Aurora sauce salice (ser, (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which has has been
been added added a a small small quantity quantity of of the the boiled-down
boiled-down cooking cooking liquor. liquor. with cream Stuff Stuffwith cream
Quenelle Quenelleforcemea( (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) for cemeat (see flavoured
flavoured with with strong strong tomato tomaLO pur6e. purée. Chicken Chicken
ballottines. baUottines. BALLorrrNEs BALLOTTINES DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE - Use Use
either either a a whole whole boned boned chicken, chicken, filled filled with with
stuffing, stuffing, rolled rolled in in a a ballottine ballottine and and braised
braised or or poached poached (see (see BALLOTTINE), BALLOITINE), or or legs legs
of of large large chickens chickens prepared prepared in in the the same same
manner. manner. The The latter latter are are usually usually called called
Jambonneaux Jambonneaux de de volaille. volaille. Chicken Ch.icken I à la la
banquiire. banquière. pouLARDn POULARDE A À r,c, LA s.A,NeuriRE BANQUIÈRE - Stuff
Stuff the the chicken chicken with with rice rice half-cooked half-cooked in in
white white stock stock mixed mixed with with 2 2 tablespoons ta blespoons (3 (3
tablespoons) ta blespoons) diced diced trufres. tmffles. Poach Poach in in white
white stock. stock.
222 222

Surround quenelles (q.v.) (q.v.) of of chicken chicken forcemeat, Surround with

with quenel/es mushrooms mushrooms and thick slices slices of of trufres. truffles.
Coat with Banquiire Banquière sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Boiled Boiled
chlcken chlcken à I'anglaise l'anglaise I. roULARDE POULARDE pocufn POCHÉE A À
L'ANcLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Poach in in white white stock. stock. Surround Surround
with with small slices of tongue, tongue, and and with with small small mounds
mounds of celery, peas, peas, slices carrots in water. carrots and turnips turnips
cooked in Boiled Boiled chicken chicken à I'anglaise l'anglaise rI. IoULARDE
POULARDE pocHsr pocHÉE A À L'ANGLIISE L'ANGLAISE - Poach Poach in water water with
with a carrot carrot cut eut in quarters, an onion herbs and wellonion stuck stuck
with with a a clove, clove, a bunch bunch of ofherbs and a a piece piece of
ofwellbalanced lean bacon bacon weighing weighing 400 g. (14 oz.). oz.). balanced
Surround Surround with with the the bacon bacon cut cut in in squares. Serve Serve
with with Parsley Pars/ey sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SA U CE) and and chicken cbicken
broth. broth.

I.

II.

pourl.nop Boiled Boiled chicken chicken à I'anglaise l'anglaise POULARDE pocrcs

pocIiÉE A À L'ANGLAISE - Poach Poach the the chicken in in white white stock with
small L'ANGLAISE carrots, carrots, pieces pieces ofturnip of tumip cut cut into
ioto balls, balls, and and celery celery hearts. hearts.
-

m. III.

Surround with with these these vegetables, vegetables, adding adding cooked cooked
French French
beans beans and and cauliflower. cauliflower.
Serve Buller sauce sauce (Se, (see SAUCE), SA UCE), capers capers and and chicken
Serve with with Butter broth. broth. Chicken Chicken ià la la bonne bonne femme.
femme. poULARDE POULARDE A À rA LA noNNe BONNE FEMITE fEMMECook Cook the the
chicken, chicken, covered covered in in butter, butter, in in the the oven. oyen.
When When it it is is half-cooked half-cooked add add 5 5 rashers rashers blanched.
blanched, diced lean lean bacon. bacon, and and 20 20 small small onions. onions.
Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add Add 500 500
g. g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) small small potatoes. potatoes. Finish
Finish cooking cooking all aU together, together, basting basting frequently.
frequently. Put Put the the chicken chicken and and its its garnish garnish in in a
a cocotte cocotte or or on on a a platter. platter. Add Add 4 4 tablespoons
tablespoons (* (i cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy gravy
to to the the cooking cooking butter buttcr and and pour pour over over the the
chicken. chicken. Chicken Chicken bouch6eg bouchées, canapdg canapés, cro0tes
CfOC.tes and and tartelettes tartelettes - All Ali these these are are filled
filled with wÎth a a salpicon sa/pican (q.v.) of of poultry poultry finished
finished off off with with truffies, trumes, mushrooms mushrooms or or other other
ingredients ingredients and and bound bound with with a a white white or or brown
brown sauce. sauce. Chicken Chicken boudim boudins I à la la Richelieu. Richelieu.
BouDINs BOUDrNS oE DE voturtr.q, VOLAILLE À r-rq, LA RIcI{ELIEU RICHELIEU * - Line
Line small, small, well-buttered well-buttered moulds moulds with with Chicken
Chicken forcemeat d à la /a crime crème (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Fill Fill
the the moulds moulds forcemeat with with a a salpicon sa/picon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of
breast breast of of chicken, chicken, truffies truffies and and mushmushrooms,
rooms, blended blended with with very very thick thick Allemande Allemande sauce
sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cover Cover with with another another layer layer
of of chicken chicken forcemeat, forcemeat, which which should should be be well
well smoothed smoothed over over with wilh the the blade blade of of a a knife
knife dipped dipped in in cold cold water. water. Place Place the the moulds moulds
in in a a baking baking tin tin of of hot hot water water in in the the oven, oven,
and and poach. poach. When When cooked, cooked, turn tum out out of of the the
moulds, moulds, dry, dry, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and
and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter bUller until until light light golden.
golden. Arrange Arrange in in a a turban turban shape shape on on a a dish, dish,
packing packing them them in in tightly. tightly. Garnish Garnish with with fried
fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Pirigueux Périgueux sauce or SuprAme
Suprême sauce SQlIce with with diced diced truffies truffies added added to to it
it (see (see sauce or SAUCE). SAUCE). Chicken Chicken ià la la bourgeoise.
bourgeoise. pour,c,nor POULARDE A À LA LA BoURGEOTSE BOURGEOISE Cook Cook the the
chicken chicken in in butter butter in in a a covered covered casserole casserole
in in the the oven. oyen. When When half-cooked half-cooked add add 5 5 rashers
rash ers of of diced diced lean lean bacon, bacon, 20 20 small small onions onions
and and 20 20 small small carrots. carrots. Finish Finish cooking cooking all all
totogether, gether, basting basting frequently. frequently. Dilute Dilute the the
cooking cooking juices juices with with white white wine wine and and thickened
thickene'd veal veal gravy, gravy, pour pour over over the the chicken chicken and
and garnish. garnish. Chicken Chicken ià la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne.
IoULARDE POULARDE A À re LA souncurcBOURGUIGNoNNE NONNE - Brown Brown 5 5rashers
rashers blanched blanched lean lean bacon bacon in25 in 25 g. g. (l (l oz., oz., 2
2 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Add Add 20 20 small small onions onions
and and 20 20 sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. Take Take these these out out and
and brown brown the the chicken chicken in in the the same same butter. butter.
Remove Remove the the chicken. chicken. Dilute Dilute the the juices juices with
with 4 4 dl. dl. (* (: pint, pint, scant seant 2 2 cups) cups) red red wine wine
and and boil boil down down by by half. half. Add Add 4 4 dl. dl. (* G pint, pint,
scant seant 2 2 cups) cups) brown brown graW, gravy, cook cook at at boiling
boiling point point for for 5 5 minutes minutes and and add add a a bouquet
bouqlle! garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Put Put the the chicken chicken back back in
in the the pan. pan. Cook Cook gently gently for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add
Add the the bacon. bacon, onions onions and and mushrooms mushrooms and and
concontinue tinue cooking cooking for for 45 45 minutes minutes to to I1hour. hour.
CHICKEN CHICKEN
Remove the bouquet and pour the bouquet garni and the sauce over over the chicken.
brochettes. BRocITETTES BROCHETTES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE - Thread Thread Chicken
brochettes. of chicken on metal skewers alternately alternately with pieces pie ces
of slices of lean bacon and mushrooms. Coat in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs
grill. and grill. Chicken broth broth @nglistr (English and and American American
cookery) cookery) - See CNcken SOUPS AND BROTHS. SOUPS Chicken capilotade. pouI"Er
POULET EN EN cAprLorADE CAPILOTADE - Use Use leftChicken of boiled, braised, or
roasted roasted chicken cbicken for this dish. dish. overs ofboiled, Take Take the
the chicken chicken off the the bones, bones, cut cut in in thin slices, slices,
and simmer in in a a sauce sauce such such as as Chasseur, Italian, Italian,
Portuguese, Portuguese, simmer Provengal, SA UCE). Provençal, etc. (see SAUCE).
POULARDE EN EN cAssERorr CASSEROLE - Put Put the Chicken casserole. casserole.
poULARDE Chicken chicken, chicken, trussed trussed for for boiling boiling and and
seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and pepper, pepper, in a casserole in which
some sorne butter butter has been melted. melted. Cook in the oven oyen at a good
heat. Cook Pour 4 to 5 tablespoons thickened rich brown veal stock dish. over the
dish. POULARDE EN Chic ken casserole casserole I à la la bonne bonne femme. femme.
poULARDE Chicken LA BONNE FEMME - As As above, adding to the CASSEROLE À cAssERoLE
A r,c, soNl.rE FEMIVTE adding to in butter, butter, small chicken, when wh en it
has been been well weil browned browned in chicken, it has been pieces of blanched
lean bacon, small onions that have been tossed pieces. tossed in butter, butter,
and potatoes potatoes cut cut into pieces. (brown). rouranon Chicken with celery
(brown). POULARDE AUX - Cook lux CÉLERIS cfrnnn-Cook Chickenwitlr ken in butter in
a covered casserole in the oyen. oven. chicken the chic Surround with braised,
braised, quartered celery hearts. Dilute the cooking juices with white wine wine
and and thickened brown veal grary, and gravy, and pour over the bird.
Alternatively, the chic ken may be braised with blanched chicken celery. lux
CÉLERIS c6lsns -- As POULARDE AUX Chicken with celery celery (white). IoULARDE
chicken with braised Chicken à braised for Chicken d l'allemande. I'allemande.
Surround the chicken (see SA celery. Pour Allemande sauce (see UCE) over it. Pow
Allemande SAUCE) eourenor À A LA r,c, CHANTILLY Chicken à cHlNiluv -- Stuff i la
Chantilly. POULARDE truffies or or diced rice mixed mixed with truffies the the
chicken with with cooked cooked rice foie gras. Cook butter, in a a covered dish in
the oyen, oven, but Cook in butter, foie gras. do not allow to brown. in port wine,
Surround with with large whole truffies truffes cooked in grar lightly and slices
of lightly fried fried in butter. and foie gras butter. Dilute the pan of foie
juices with white stock, add tbick Velouti sauce (see juices thick chicken Velouté
few tablespoons and simmer down by half. half. Add a a few tablespoons SAUCE) and
whipped cream and pour over the chicken. Detach the breasts. Trim Trim and flatten
them them a little, little, stud with
pieces tongue and truffies, and put them oftongue them in in a buttered buttered
dish. dish. pieces of

Cook the four leg joints, joints, the ends ends of the wings and and the divided
carcases as fricassée. Drain and wipe the leg as for a fricassie. joints,
breadcrumbs, and fry in clarified clarified joints, coat with egg and breadcrumbso
butter. butter. Arrange the and wingtips in a a pastry pastry the pieces of carcase
and case. Pour Pour over them the strained strained fricassde fricassée sauc€.
sauce. joints on top of Place the leg of the carcases carcases and between between
each legjoints leg put put a wing. Poach Poach the breasts and place on top. top.
Serve with the rest of the the fricassie fricassée sauee. sauce. to which mushrooms
and truffies have been added. added. Chicken Chicken chipolata. chipolata. IoULARDE
POULARDE cHIpoLATA CHI POLA TA - Braise Braise the chicken with a garnish garnish
of of chipolata chipolata chicken in brown brown gravy. Surround with sausages
sausages (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Pour the the pan juices juices diluted
with Madeira Madeira and mixed with Rich Rich brown brown sauce (s*, (see SAUCE) SA
UCE) over the dish. dish. Chicken I POULARDE A À ur LA cstvRv CHIVRY - Poach the à
la Chivry. Chivry. IoULARDE chicken in white stock. Surround Surround with
artichoke bottoms bottoms garnished with with asparagus asparagus tips or or fresh
fresh peas. peas. Pour Chivry (se SAUCE) over the chicken. sauce (see For a
variation, serve the chicken with with Chivry sauce sauce and and mixed vegetables
served separately. separately. I la Clamart. Chicken à Clamart. PoULARDE POULARDE A
À r.e, LA cllrrannr CLAMART - Halfas for boiling. Add cook in butter a chicken
trussed as cook Add I 1 litre (lf, pints, generous quart) fresh peas d
lafrangaisewhich à lafrançaise which have (làand finish been cooked. Cover been
three-quarters cooked. Coyer with with a a lid lid and cooking in the oyen. cooking
oven. prepared in are called Small chickens chickens prepared same way in the the
same way are Small
poulets Clamart.. poulets d à la Clamart

(oints) Chaud-froid of Chaud-froid of cbicken chicken (joints)

voI-Arr-r-E -- A DE VOLAILLE chicken. CHAUD-FROID Chaud-froid of of chicken. cHAUD-

FRoID DE joints of cold entrée. in a a flour-and-water flour-and-water cold entrCe.
Poach Poach joints of chicken chicken in stock, drain, drain, and and coat with
white white or brown- Chaud-froid stock, coat with or brown (see SAUCE). glazed in
jelly. sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate with truffies, glazed poULARDE À A LA r,c,
CHEVAUÈRE Chicken Chicken à chevali&re. POULARDE cHEvarGnr -- Take Take i la
chevalière. pieces of off off the wings wings of 2 chickens. chickens. Trim, Trim,
and and insert insert small of 2 small pieces of Braise in bacon fat under the
skin. in Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured stock. skin. Braise stock. 223 223

in cocotte. cocotte. poULARDE cocorrE Chicken in Chicken POULARDE EN EN COCOTTE -

Chicken Chic ken receptacle. cooked in a pot or casserole and served served in the
the same receptacle. cooked coMporE chicken Chicken compote. pouI.Er POULET EN
COMPOTE Chicken - Truss the cbicken (see as for for boiling. for Compote Compote of
of pigeon boiling. Prepare Prepare as as for pigeon (see as PIGEON). BROTHS.
consomm6 SOUPS AND BROTHS. Chicken consommé Chicken - See SOUPS DE VOLAILLE
voLAILLE Chicken c0telettes. CÔTELETTES cdrsl-rrrEs DE Under Chic ken côtelettes.
nder this -U name are known known the following: poultry removed l. Breasts Breasts
of removed when when raw raw and and cooked of poultry 1. separately, to be served
as a small entrée. entrie. separately, 2. Croquettes made made with with a a
chicken chicken croquette croquette mixture, mixture, 2. into the in egg and the
shape of cutlets, coated coated in and breadformed into crumbs, and fried in
butter. Variety of of quenelles made with a poultry forcemeat and and 3. Variety 3.
a special mould. poached in a a small To prepare chicken breasts. Remove the
breasts of a a fat fat hen after having taken off offthe roasting chicken or a the
skin. joint. Flatten ligbtly. lightly. Leave the wingtips on the joint. To cook
l'anglaise. Season Season the citelettes, cook in in butter butter à d l'anglaise.
the côtelettes, To and breadcrumbs, and sprinkle with with flour, flour, coat coat
with with egg egg and sprinkle cook in clarified butter butter.. Garnish and add
sauce according to the recipe. Chicken côtelettes may be coated with with
breadcrumbs to citelettes may be coated Chicken chopped truffies or other
ingredients have been added. which chopped To cook Season the citelettes, brush
with cook à d blanc, or poach. Season the côtelettes, To flat in a a buttered sauté
saut€ pan. Add melted butter, and lay them fiat juice; coyer and cook for for 6 to
a few few drops of lemon lemon juice; cover the the pan and a a very hot oyen.
oven. 8 minutes in a Garnish and and add sauce according to to the recipe. The
cooking must be cooking of chicken côtelettes cbtelettes à d blanc blanc must be
done The The liquid liquid must be without boiling. but without boiling. The
extremely rapidly but juice indicated above. drops of lemon juice above. limited to
the few drops To cook cook in in butter butter à d brun. brun. Season Season the
the côtelettes, cbtelettes, sprinkle sprinkle To quickly sauté with flour flour and
and quickly in clarified clarified butter. butter. Cook Cook very very saut6 in
with pieces are liable to lightly as as these are extremely delicate and and liable
these pieces extremely delicate lightly if over-cooked. over-cooked. become tough
if Garnish and and add add sauce according to the recipe. Put paper sauce according
to the Garnish frills on on the the ends. ends. friUs
CHICKEN CHICKEN
Cdtelettes are are served served on on croûtons, croOtons, vegetables, vegetables,
etc, etc. Côtelettes Chicken côtelettes cOtelettes à A l'anglaise. I'anglaise.
CÔTELETTES cOTELETTES DE or VOLAILLE vorllrrr À A Chicken L'.a,NGLaIsr - Season
Season and and coat coat the the côtelelles citelettes in in egg egg and and
L'ANGLAISE breadcrumbs. Sauté Saut6 in in butter. green vegetable butter. Garnish
Garnish wi with a green vegetable breadcrumbs, th a in butter. butter. Serve Serve
wi with gravy. tossed in thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. tossed th thickened
Chicken côtelettes cdtelettes Helder. Helder. CÔTELETTES cOTELETTEs DE DE VOLAILLE
VoLATLLE Chicken IIELDER _. Cook the garnish with the côtelettes citelettes à
blanc. Dish d blanc. Dish and and garnish with HELDER - Cook (q.v.) of a salpicon
salpicon (q,v,) of carrots, carrots, artichoke artichoke bot bottoms, trufres and
and a toms, trumes mushrooms eooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter. butter.
mushrooms (see SAUCE) Coat with with rich chicken Velouté Velouti sauce rich
chicken sauce (see SAUCE) Coat juice. Add diluted witb with 1 I tablespoon
tablespoon tomato tomato juice, Add strained strained butter. butter. diluted
Chickm côtelettes cOtelettes maréchale. marechale. CÔTELETTF,S c6rErerrEs DE DE
VOLAILLE voLATLLE Chicken rr,llnEcn,ll.r - Coat Coat the cbtelettes with the
côtelettes with egg and breadegg and breadMARÉCHALE crumbs, adding adding to to the
breadcrumbs a a third the breadcrumbs third oftheir of theirvolume of crumbs,
volume of chopped trumes. truffies. Sauté Saut6 in in butter. butter. chopped Top
each each côtelelle citelette with with slices slices of of trumes, truffies, and
and sprinkle sprinkle with with Top (see BUTTER, Noisette buller butter (sec
BUTTER, Compound Compound bUllers), butters'). Noiselle Chicken crépinettes
crdpinettes See CRÉPINETTES, CREPINETTES. Chicken - See pourrr À la crllpaudine.
Chicken à la A LA CRAPAUDINE crapaudine. POULET cRApAr,JDrNE Chlcken Prepareo using
using a a small roasting chicken, chicken, as as Pigeon small roasting Pigeon à d
la la Prepare, (see PIGEON), crapaudine (sec PIGEON). crapaudine croquettes.
CROQUETTES Chicken croquettes. cRoeuETTEs DE DE VOLAILLE VoLATLLE Chicken - Combine
(see finely chopped chopped chicken chicken with with thick Velouti sauce sauce
(see thick Velouté finely yolk and SAUCE). Bind Bind with with an an egg and season
egg yolk season weil well with with salt, salt, SAUCE), juice. Cool pepper and
lemon juice. and lemon Make into Cool thoroughly. thoroughly. Make into small small
pepper oval croquettes, croquettes. Coat Coat with with beaten egg egg and fine
fine breadcrumbs oval and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. and pouuRDE AUX Chicken
with with cucumber. cucumber. POULARDE Aux CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs Chicken Follow
recipe recipe for for Chicken Chicken à d l'allemande, l'allemande. Sur Surround
with Follow round with cucumber cut cut in in chunks chunks and and simmered
simmered in in butter. butter. Pour over cueumber (see SAUCE), Allemande sauce (see
SAUCE). Allemande sauce (Plunerey's recipe). CARI curry (plumerey's Chicken curry
'Toss cARr DE pouLET Chlcken POULET - 'Toss (generous in g. (generous chickens eut
cut in in pieces 500 g, in butter butter two two chickens pieces with with 500 I
lb,) lb.) of uncooked ham and eut of uncooked cleaned of of salt and cut in dice.
Add Add a a 1 ham cleaned in dice, good tablespoon tablespoon Ilour flour and and
moisten moisten with stock. good with light light veal veal stock. (q.v.) and garni
(q.v,) Add also a a bouquet bouquet garni and two curry Add also two teaspoons
leaspoons curry powder. powder. 'After it sauce without 'After it is is cooked,
cooked, boil bail down down the the sauce without thickening thickening it It
should look like should look like a il too too much. much. 11 a pale pale espagrnle
espagnole sauce, lightly coloured coloured with saffron.' Serve Serve with lightly
with saffron.' with Indian Indian style rice. rice, (Mont-Bry's recipe). Chickm
clru DE Chicken curry curry (Mont-Bry's recipe). CARI DE pouI.Er POULET 'Draw, a
medium-sized chicken. Divide Divide each 'Draw, pluck pluck and and joint joint a
medium-sized ehicken. joint 4 pieces joint into into 3 3 or or 4 pleces (whur (when
cutting cutting up up chicken joints joints be careful careful not not to to
splinter splinter the the bones bones into into tiny tiny fragments). fragments).
Cook Cook in in butter butter 2 2 chopped-up chopped-up onions, onions, 100 100 g.
g. (4 (4 oz.) oz,) ham ham cut small pieces, eut in in small pieces, and and 2 2
peeled peeled and and chopped chopped eating apples all seasoned seasoned with all
with crushed crushed garlic, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, leaf, cinnamon, cinnamon,
cardamom cardamom and and powdered powdered mace. mace, Add Add the chicken pieces.
pieces, 'When 'When quite quite firm, firm, shake shake them them about about
without without letting letting them colour colour too 100 much, mueh, and and
sprinkle sprinkle them with with 2 teaspoons teaspoons curry curry powder. powder.
Add Add 2 2 peeled, peeled, seeded seeded and and crushed cru shed tomatoes and mix
well. mixwelJ. 'Put 'Put in 2| 21 dl. dl. (scant (seant! pint, generous generous
cup) cup) coconut coconut milk milk (or (or ] pint, almond almond milk). milk),
Cook Cook very very gently gently in in a covered saucepan for for about about 35
35 minutes. minutes. l0 10 minutes minutes before before serving, add add I} dl. ft
(t pint, pint, 3 ~ cup) cup) thick thick fresh fresh cream cream and and the the
juice juice of of I 1 lemon. lemon, Thicken Thicken this this sauce sauce to to the
the desired desired consistency by by boiling boiIing down. down. 'Serve 'Serve the
the chicken chicken with with rice rice cooked cooked as as follows: follows, 'Cook
'Cook 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz' oz., Lt cups) cups) rioe rice for for 15 15 minutes
minutes in salt water, water, stirring stirring often. often, Drain Drain and and
wash wash several times times in in cold cold water. wateT. Dry, Dry, in in the the
oven oyen at at a a very very low low heat heat for for l5 15 minutes.' minutes.'
Chicken Chickell curry curry (Creole (Creole cookery). cookery). cARr CARl DE DE
pouLET POULET - Joint Joint a medium-sized medium-sized chicken. chicken. Brown
Brown the the pieces pieces very very lightly Iightly in in good good fat, fat,
taking taking care care not not to to let let them them become become dry. dry, Add
Add I 1 finely finely chopped chopped onion onion and and simmer simmer very very
slowly. slowly, The The onion onion must must not not be be allowed allowed to to
tum turn yellow. yellow. Add Add 2 2 small small peeled, peeled, seeded seeded and
and chopped chopped tomatoes. tomatoes. Stir Stir the the mixture. mixture, Leave
Leave to to simmer sim mer for for 15 15

minutes. Add Add 2 2 teaspoons previously pounded pounded in teaspoons saffron,

saffron, previously minutes, in a a mortaro wilh with a a sprig parsley, a sprig of
of Ihyme, thyme, a a sprig a c10ve sprig of of parsley, clove of mortar. of garlic,
and piece of ginger. Leave and a a piece ofstem Leave these these spices spices to
garlic, stem ginger. to soak soak into the chicken before the chicken before
moistening moistening the glass of the curry curry with with a a glass of into
lukewarm. watcr, poured into water, poured pan a into the a little little at at a a
time, the pan lukewarrn tirne. (see Simmer for for 2 2 hours hours and and serve
Rice à serve with with Rice d la la créole uiole (see Simmer RrcE). RICE), Chicken
roULARDE À Crlssy. POULARDE h Cussy. A LA ra CUSSY cussy - Braise Braise the Chic
ken à la the chicken in in brown brown butter. garnish (see (see butter. Surround
Surround with with a a Cussy Cussy garnish chicken GARNISHES). GARNISHES). juices
diluted Pour the cooking juices the cooking port wine diluted with with port wine
and and Rich Rl'c& Pour (see SA sauce (see SAUCE. Basic sauces) sauces) over over
the chicken. Brown sauce UCE. Basic chicken. poULARDE À Chicken à il la la
d'A1buférll, d'Albuf6ra. POULARDE A LA Chicken L,q, D'ALBUfÉRA D'Lrsurfu Stuff the
chicken with the chicken with rice rice half-cooked half-cooked in in white Stuff
white stock, stock, mixed with pieces of with small gras. Poach small pieces of
trumes truffies and and foie mixed Poach in in foie gras, white stock. pastry cases
stock. Surround Surround with with pastry cases filled filled with with small small
white quenelles, cocks' chicken quenelles, cocks' kidneys, kidneys, slices of
trumes and slices of chicken truffies and button mushrooms mushrooms bound bound
with (see with d'Albuféra d'Albufira sauce sauce (see button SAUCE). Coat the
chicken chicken with with d'Albuféra d'Albufdra sauce. SAUCE), poULARDE DEMI-DEUIL
Chicken demi-deuil. demideuil. POULARDE DEMI-DEUTL - Poach Poach the the Chlcken
chicken in in a a white white stock, stock. Surround Surround with with pastry
cases cases filled with a mixture of a mixture of lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads
and and mushrooms bound with (se SAUCE). in thick chicken Velouté VeloutC sauce
thick chicken sauce (see SAUCE). Put Put a a small small in cooked in truffie
cooked in Madeira Madeira on pour on on each and pour each tartIet tartlet and on
Irume (see SAUCE). Suprdme sauce (see SAUCE). Suprême Chicken demi-deuil demi-dail
is is also also called called Poached chicken chicken LyonChicken

l]

l|

powlnos DEMrDortr Chicken Demidolf Demidoff J. I. POULARDE Cook the Chicken

DEMIDOFF - Cook chicken à la Matignon in a d la a covered dish in the the oven,
oven. Surround with with artichoke artichoke bottoms garnished with with
vegeSurround bottoms gamished pur6e. Put an on onion batter and fried, on table
purée. ion ring, dipped in balter a slice of truffie. each artichoke, topped with a
trume. juices with Mix the eooking cooking juices with Madeira and Rich brown Mix
the Madeira and Rich bl'OWll (se SAUCE), SAUCE). Pour over the chicken, chicken.
sauce (see Chicken Demidoff II. powlnDE Chlcken Demidolf n. POULARDE DEMTEoFF
DEMIDOFF - Cook Cook the a covered covered dish in the oven. dish in oven. When it
it is chicken in in butter'in butter in a three-quarters cooked, cooked, add add 3
3 dl. dl. (| 1| cups) cups) mixed (1 pint, pint, It vegetable pur6e, and truffies.
vegetable purée, mushrooms mushrooms and truffles. When When cooked garnish garnish
with sliced truffies. trumes. Mix and thickened Mix the the cooking juices juices
with with port port wine wine and brown chicken. brown veal stock, and pour over
the chicken, Chicken à la la Derby. Derby. noULARDE POULARDE A À ra LA opnsy DERBY
- Stuff the chicken with and mixed with truffies. with rice cooked in butter and
trumes. Cook, covered, covered, in the oven. oven. Surround Surround with with
large large trufres truffles cooked cooked in in port port wine, wine, and slices
of saut6ed in butter. Mix the cooking of /ole foie gras sautéed cooking juices
juices with v.'Ïth port port wine and and thickened brown veal veal gravy, and pour
over the chicken. Chicken Chickell à la Doria. poULARDE POULARDE A À LA ooRrl DORIA
- Poach Poach the chicken in in white white stock. Take it out of the the liquid,
liquid, remove remove the barding barding and trussing string. Cut offthe off the
breast breast fillets fille!s and and take out the the small bones bones from the
interior interior of of the carcase. carcase. Fill Fil! the chicken with the the
following fol!owing mixture: mixture' Bind Bind 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) each each
of cocks' cocks' combs and and kidneys, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz.) oz.) button button
mushrooms mushrooms and 100 100 g. g. (4 oz.) oz,) quartered quartered truffies
trumes with with 3 3 dl. (| (t pint, pint, l{ Il cups) cups) very very thick thick
chicken Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Chill. ChilI. Fill chicken
with with this this mixture, mixture, giving giving the the bird bird its its Fil!
the the chicken original original shape. shape. Arrange Arrange the the breast
breast fillets, filJets, cut eut into into fine fine strips, strips, on on top.
top, Pour Pour very very thick thick Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE), SA UCE), over over the the chicken. chicken. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated
Parmesan Parmesan and brown brown lightly lightly in in the the oven. oyen,
Surround Sur round the the bird bird with with large large chicken chicken
quenelles quenelles decorated decorated with wÙh truffies, truffles, medium-sized
medium-sized trufres trumes cooked cooked in in champagne, champagne, fried fried
cocks' combs, combs, and and large large mushrooms. mushrooms. Pour Pour into into
the the bottom bottom of of the the dish dish a a few few tablespoons tablespoons
Suprdme Suprême sauce sauce (se, (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). fminc6s Émincés of of
Chicken. Chickell. frurxcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE voLArLLs VOLAILLE - Left-over Left-over

naise.

rl

224 224
CHICKEN
chicken chicken (poached, (poached, braised braised or roasted), boned, and cut
into thin thin slices. slices. Coat Coat with with sauce sauce and heat heat
rvithout without boiling. Chicken Chic ken fillets. fiUets. FtLETs FILETS DE DE
voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Breasts Breasts of chicken removed removed when when raw raw
and and cooked in.various in. various ways. ways. See See the recipes under
Cdtelettes Côtelettes and SuprAmas Suprêmes below. recipes given given under
Chickenfiletsmignons. Chicken filets mignons. FTLETS FILETS MrcNoNs MIGNONS DE DE
vornnrrVOLAILLE - Long thin thin strips strips cut cut from from the the SuprAmes
Suprêmes (see (see below) below) of poultry. These These filets, filets, encrusted
encrusted with wi.th thin thin slices of of truffies or pickled pickled tongue, or
arcs arcs and and placed placed on top top of of the tongue, are are formed formed
into into rings rings or suprdmes, suprêmes, which which are are cooked cooked
separately. separately. Chicken à la la financiOre. financière. poulARns POULARDE A
À rA, LA rrx^lNcriinn FINANCIÈRE Chicken I Braise Braise the the chicken. chicken.
Surround Surround with with a a Financidre Financière garnish (see (see GARNTSHES).
GARNISHES). Pour Pour Financibre Financière sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE),
to which which has has been been added added some sorne of of the the juice juice
in in which which the the chicken chicken was was cooked, cooked, over over the the
bird. bird. Chickm FORCEMEA T. Chicken forcemeat forcemeat - See See FORCEMEAT.
Chicken Chicken fricass6efricassée- See See FRICASSEE. FRICASSÉE. Chicken Chicken
fricassee fricassée I à la la minute minute @lumerey's (plurnerey's recipe).
recipe). FRrcAsFRICASsfE SÉE DE DE pouLET.i POULET À r,c, LA MrNurE MINUTE -'Cut -
'Cut up up two two chickens, chickens, put put them them in in a a saucepan
saucepan with with 175 175 g.6 g. (6 oz., oz.,.t cup) melted melted butter, butter,
and and toss toss tcup) them them so so that that they they become become firm firm
without without colouring. colouring. Add 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) flour, ftour, season season with with salt, salt, pepper,
pepper, and and grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and add add as as much much water
water as as will will make make a a slightly slightly thickened thickened sauce.
sauce. Add Add 6 6 small small blanched blanched onions, onions, and and a a
bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Cook Cook on on a a good good heat,
heat, taking taking care care that that the the chicken chicken does does not not
stick stick and and that that the the sauce sauce is is boiled boiled down down
little 25 minutes little by by little. little. At At the the end end of of25
minutes test test I1of ofthe the legs legs to to see see if it is ifit is cooked.
cooked. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) mushrooms, mushrooms, remove remove
grease, grease, bind bind the the sauce sauce with with four four beaten beaten egg
egg yolks, yolks, sprinkle sprinkle with with lemon lemonjuice.' juice.' Chicken
FRITOT DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Entrie Entrée prepared prepared with with Chicken
fritot. fritot. rruror slices of cooked cooked chicken chicken marinated marinated
in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice juice and and slices of herbs, herbs, dipped
dipped in in batter batter and and fried fried in in deep deep fat fat or or oil.
oiL (See (See also also FRTTTERS.) FRITTERS.) Chicken Chicken galantine galantine -
See See GALANTINE. GALANTINE. Chickcn Chicken giblets. giblets. ABArrs ABATIS DE DE
voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Poultry Poultry giblets giblets are are composed composed of of
wingtips, wingtips, neck, neck, gszzard, gizzard, liver, liver, and and heart.
heart. (See GIBLETS.) (See GIBLETS.) Chicken iàla la Godard. Godard. poULARDE
POULARDE A À rn LA coolno GODARD - Braise Braise the the Chicken chicken. Surround
Surround with with Godard Godard garnish garnish (see (see GARNISH). GARNISH).
chicken. Pour Pour over over the the chicken chicken Godard Godard sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which sorne of ofthe the cooking cooking juices
juices have have been been added. added. some

Grilled chicken chicken is served with a highly seasoned seasoned sauce sauoe such
as Diable, Mustard, Biarnaise, SAUCE). Béarnaise, etc. (see SAUCE). Gdltd il la
diable. diable. pouI.Er cnnrf À A r,l Grilled chicken à POULET GRILLÉ LA DIABLE
orlsrr Truss Truss the chicken chicken as for boiling boiling and split it through
through the back. Flatten slightly, season pepper, spread season with salt salt and
and pepper, spread with butter, half-cook in the oyen. butter, and half-cook oven.
Smear Smear the the chicken with a a little little mustard mus tard to which sorne
to which some cayenne cayenne has been added. added. Coat with fresh fresh
breadcrumbs and sprinkle cooking under a sprinkle with melted butter. butter.
Finish cooking a gentle

grill, letting it colour well. weil.

Garnish Garnish with gherkins and half-slices of of lemon, and serve
wirJr SAUCE). with Diable sauce sauce (see SAUCE).

Grilledchicken chicken Grilled

down the the back, back, push push the the ends ends of ofthe the legs legs into
into the the opening, opening, down and season season with with salt salt and and
pepper. pepper. Brown Brown on on ftatten slightly, slightly, and flatten both
sides sides in in butter, butter, cover co ver both both sides sides with with
fresh fresh breadbreadboth

GriUedchicken. chicken.pouLAR"DE POULARDEcnrrrfp GRILLÉE-- Cut Cut the thechicken

chicken open open Grilld

crumbs and and grill grill under under gentle gentle heat. heat. The The chicken
chicken can can also also be be crumbs dividedinto intojoints jointsas as for for
SautCed Sautéedchicken chicken (see (seebelow). below). divided 225 225

Chicken GrimoddeJa-Reyniire Grimod-de-Ia-Reynière - See below, Chicken See below, d

Chicken à la Nantua Nantua III. JAt\fBON DE pouLET POULET - Name given in France
Chicken ham. harn. leMsor.r to the thigh thigh of a a large large chicken, chicken,
which is is boned, boned, stuffed, to ofa ham and braised braised in Madeira.
Madeira. trussed in the shape of trussed a ham HACHIS DE voLArLrE VOLAILLE - Made
with left-over left-over Chicken hash. rHcnrs poultry poultry (poached or braised),
boned and chopped or cut in very small dice. (See HASH.) HASH.) Hungarian chicken.
chic ken. roULARDE POULARDE A À LA noNcnorsn HONGROISE - Stuff Hungarian Stuff the
three-quarters cooked and seasoned seasoned with with rice three-quarters chicken
with paprika. paprika. covered with butter, butter, in the the oven. oyen. Dilute
the the pan Cook, covered juices juices with with white white wine wine and and
pour pour over over the chicken. Serve Serve with SAUCE). Hungarian sauce sauce
(se, (see SAUCE). Hungariut Chicken i à I'imp6riale. l'impériale. eoULARDE POULARDE
I A r'nrpfnrlrn L'IMPÉRIALE - Stuffthe Stuff the Chicken chicken with with a a
mixture mixture of 150 g. (5 oz.) oz.) lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, chicken 100
g. g. (4 oz.) button button mushrooms, 3 medium-sized truffies 100 shaped to to
look look like like olives, olives, bound bound with with 2 2 dl. $ (1 pint, pin t,
scant cup) shaped mushroom pur6e purée and and 2 2 dl. (+ (1 pint, pint, scant cup)
thick thick chicken mushroom Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Cook, Cook,
covered, in in the the oven oyen VeloutC without allowing allowing it it to to
colour. colour. without Surround with with pastry pastry cases filled with with
small pieces of offoie joie Surround gras,large gras, large mushrooms mushrooms
cooked cooked in in butter butter and garnished garni shed with asparagus tips,
tips, and and small small artichoke artichoke bottoms bottoms simmered asparagus
and filled filled with with chopped chopped trufres. truffies. gently in in butter
butter and gently Coat lightly lightly with with a a sauce, sauce, using using the
the cooking cooking juices juices as as for Coat Chicken h à la la Chantilly.
Chantilly. Chickm à I'indienne. l'indienne. poULARDE POULARDE A À l'rNotnxNe
L'INDIENNE - Poach Poach the the Chic ken I Chicken chicken in in white white
stock, stock, or or cook cook it, it, covered, covered, in in the the oven oyen
with with chicken butter. butter. Pour Curry Curry sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE)
over it, and serve serve with with Polurr Rice d à I'indienne l'indienne (see (see
RICE). RICE). Rice Cold chicken chicken Isabelle Isabelle (M. (M. Apollon Apollon
Caillat's CaiUat's recipe). recipe). Cold CHAUD-FROID DE DE poULARDE POULARDE
rsABELrr ISABELLE - Cut the the chicken chicken in cHAUD-FRoID pieces, soak soak in
in cold cold water, water, drain drain and and put put in in a a shallow shallow
saut6 sauté pieces, pan. Pour Pour over over it it 3 3 dl. dL (+ (t pint, pint, li
cups) cups) concentrated concentrated veal veal pan. mushroom essence, essence, and
and cook. cook. stock, flavoured ftavoured with with mushroom stock, Drain the the
bird. bird. Strain Strain the the cooking cooking juices juices and and use use
them them to to Drain moisten a a roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) made made with with 75 75
E. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., scant scant + t cupl cup:, moisten butter and and the the
same same quantity quantity of of flour, ftour, cooked cooked together. together.
Add Add butter teaspoon paprika. paprika. Cook, Cook, and and skim. skim. Bind Bind
the the sauce sauce with with 2 2 I1 teaspoon egg yolks yolks beaten beaten up up
in in a a little little cream. cream. Cook Cook slowly, slowly, and and strain
strain egg over the the pieces pieces ofchicken, of chicken, which which have have
been been returnod returned to to the the over shallow pan. pan. Add Add sweet
sweet pimentos pimentos cut cut in in julienne julienne strips. strips. shallow
Simmer for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Simmer To serve, serve, cover coyer
the the chicken chicken pieces pieces completely completely with with the the To
sauce. When When quite quite cold, cold, decorate decorate with with small small
pieces pieces of oftruffies sauce. truffies and sweet sweet pimentos. pimentos. and
Coat completely completely with with a a thin thin layer layer ofjelly, of jelly,
which which should should be be Coat and almost almost colourless. colourJess.
c1ear and clear Chicken A à I'ivoire. l'ivoire. pouLARDE POULARDE A À I'rvonr
L'IVOIRE - Poach Poach the the Chicken chicken in in white white stock, stock,
surround surround with with 20 20 mushroom mushroom heads heads chicken and 20
chicken chicken quenelles. quenelles. Porx Pour SuprAme Suprême s(ace sauce (see
(see SAUCE) SAUCE) and20 over the the bird. bird. over Chickenjambalaya
(Indiancookery). cookery). JAMBALATA JAMBALAIA DE DE pouLET POULET jambalaya
(Indian Chicken Pilafmade made from from rice rice cooked cooked d à l'indienne
l'indienne (see (see RICE). RICE). -- Pilaf

l|

-
CHICKEN CHICKEN
Dice coarsely 150 J 50 g. (5 oz.) raw, lean Jean ham. Saut6 Sauté in butter

t'rstnecoN Chicken with tarragon tarragon in jelly. jelly. roULARDE POULARDE A À

L'ESTRAGON

(9 oz.) in in a a heavy pan. pan. When When almost cooked, add add 250 250 g. g. (9
cooked diced diced chicken. g. (7 oz., ll oz., It Saut6 Sauté and season with red
red pepper. pepper. Add 200 g. separately. cups) Rice Rice d à l'indienne (see
RICE) cooked separately. A rA TEnTNE À Jellied POULARDE sN EN TERRINE LÀ Jellied
chicken in casserole. poULARDE fowl. Stuff with a forcemeat made of cnlEr GELÉE -
Bone Bone a plump plumpfowl. veal, fresh pork fat and àgratinforcemeat, d
gratinforcemeat,the equal parts of ofveal, the equal whole bound with with two
eggs, eggs, and and flavoured ftavoured whoJe well seasoned, bound with wi th
brandy brandy and essence of of truffies. truffles. of truffies raw foie gras
studded with 4 quarters of Put half half a a raw truffles and re-form the shape of
the on the the forcemeat, and the shape the chicken. on a slice of fat bard with
with a slice of Truss as Truss as for for boiling, boiling, bard fat bacon, bacon,
add oven. Remove Madeira, and and cook, covered, in the oyen. Remove from the
Madeira, the trussing cool. Dilute the dish and cool. the pan juices. juices.
Remove the dish and chicken, and put it in an earthenwipe the chicken, string and
barding, wipe Cover completely with ware dish on a base of well-set weil-set jelly.
jeJJy. Coyer jelly have been added. jelly to which the diluted cooking juices have
Leave to chill chili for at least 12 hours. AU CHAMcHAMwith champagne. champagne.
PoULARDE POULARDE AU Jellied Jellied chicken chicken with pAcNE nN prepared weil
well in This dish be prepared PAGNE EN GELÉE dish should should be cnr6u - This ad
vance. advance. gras, trimmed with a a whole foie trimmed and foie gras, Stuff a
chicken Stuff a chicken with which has has been been soaked in brandy and studded
truffles, wlllch studded with truffies, a few spices, few minutes. and cooked
cooked in butter for a spices, and the cooking oven in in the in butter. butter.
Dilute the Cook, covered, in the oyen Cook, covered, (scant pint, pint,2f, cups)
dry champagne. champagne. Boil with 5 dl. dl. (scant juices with 2i cups) (see
(scant pint, pint, 2i 2l cups) Add 5 cups) Chicken jelly down. jelly (see down. Add
5 dl. dl. (scant JELL Y). Boil for a a few moments. Strain. JELLY). cover with
earthenware dish and coyer Put the chicken in a large earthenware jelly is quite
set scrape jelly. Cool completely. When Wh en the jelly the jelly. bird over over 2
off any fat that sticks to the surface, and wipe the bird offany hot water. or or 3
times with a cloth wrung out in very hot flavoured with different wines. Jellied be
ftavoured Jellied chicken may be PoULARDE AU AU FOIE FoIE Jellied chicken with foie
gras (canned). POULARDE chickm in casserole. casserole. GRAS A LA as for lellied
Jellied chicken re GELÉE csrEE Prepare as cns À - Prepare it breast and wings. Put
it Drain, remove the strings and the trussing strings just big hold the to hold
large tin big enough enough to downwards into a a large tin just downwards into
Solder the chicken. Coyer the clarified cooking liquor. Solder Cover with the into
a the tin tin into a with solder. solder. Put the tin, a mark on on the the top
with tin, make a boil and to the the boil pot and and coyer cover completely with
water. Bring to I hour. for 1 continue to to boil, without interruption, for
keeping it upside down so so Drain the tin and leave to cool, keeping jelly and
goes to fat goes to the is in jelly and the the fat that the breast of chicken is
the breast bottom of the tin.

jelly (Scarnali) (Scarnati) Chicken Chicken witb with tarragon tarragon in in jelly

with white a generous and coyer cover with stock. Add saucepan and saucepan white
stock. Add a quantity of tarragon. quantity tarragon. liquid. Leave to cool cool in
Cook slowly sJowly for for I 1 hour. hour. Leave in its its own Jiquid. carefully.
Drain, take off the trussing string and wipe carefully. all grease has been Reheat
cooking liquor, from which ail Reheat the cooking quantity of of Add to required
quantity and strain. removed, and strain. Add the required to it it the removed,
gelatine, soaked in cold water, and heat slightly. slightly. g. lukewarm, into a
saucepan in which 100 g. Pour this, when lukewarm, (4 oz.) I egg a handful and a
lean beef, egg white white and handful of oz.) minced (4 minced Jean beef, 1 been
whisked together. Cook chopped tarragon leaves have been a good heat for a a
moment, whisking whisking lightly. over a a. it cornes comes to the boil, remove
remove the the saucepan to a As soon as it slowly for 25 minutes. very low heat and
cook sJowly jelly through adding, when it has cooled, Strain the jelly through a
cloth, adding, (6 tablespoons, When nearly scant t I dl. cup) Madeira. Madeira.
When dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1 * cup) jelly, and and when it it has cold, half-
fill a dish with sorne some of this jelly, cold, on top. set put the chicken on
leaves of with broad of tarragon, tarragon, blanched, Decorate with broad leaves
Decorate jelly. in half-set jelly. and dipped dipped one by one one in trimmed,
drained, drained, and one by trimmed, pattern on in a a pattern breast of of the
Arrange these on the the breast these leaves Arrange leaves in of the the cover the
chicken chicken with the rest of chicken. Three-quarters coyer jelly. jelly. until
ready ready to ice or in in the the refrigerator refrigerator untiJ the dish dish
on on ice Place the serve. pout,Er KATOFF KAToFF a chicken chicken (split Katoff.
POULET Grill a Chicken Katoff. - Grill flattened) as as for for Grilled chicken à d
the back back and lightly ftattened) down the la diable. la (see POT POTATOES),
Duchess potato (see foundationof Set it on a foundation of Duchess ATOES), and
browned in in the oven. Surround with egg and the oyen. brushed with egg brushed
has been veal stock to which butter has been added. thickened brown veaJ thickened
cRoMnseun DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- Prepared kromeskies. CROMESQUIS Chicken
kromeskies. caul (or pork fat), with a a croquette mixture, mixture, wrapped in
pig's cauJ in batter and fried. (See CROQUETTES.) dipped in a fat noULARDE
LAMBERTYE -- Poach Poach a Chicken Lambertye. POULARDE Allow it it to for boiling,
stock. Allow in white chicken stock. boiling, in hen, trussed for hen, completely
in in its own liquid. cool compJetely and remove it. remove it. round the a
circular circular incision incision round the breast and Make a (see FOIE GRAS),
gras mousse GRAS), a Foie Foie gras inside with Fill the with a mousse (see the
inside Fill Coat the shape the chicken. chicken. Coat re-form the the top top to to
re-form shape of the rounding the (see SAUCE). IAhirc chaud-froid SAUCE). with
White chaud-froid sauce (see the chicken chicken legs with the cut in in slices,
slices, Place over over the the chicken chicken breasts cut the mousse the Place
and decorated decorated with truffles truffies and rounds coated with the sauce and
jelly. glazed with jelly. tongue glazed of tongue a bed rice. Garnish Garnish Serve
on cro0tons of bread, bread, or or on on a bed of rice. on croûtons Serve jelly.
jelly shapes chopped jelly. shapes or or chopped with jelly poulARDE À A LA LA
LANGUEDOLANGUEEola languedocienne. POULARDE Chicken i la Chic ken à with butter.
oven with covered, in the cTENNE the the oyen CIENNE Cook the chicken, covered, in
la languedoa dish with tomatoes d la and surround Set on on a dish and surround
with tomatoes à Set lightly fried fried in in oil. oil. and aubergines cut cut in
in slices slices and and Jightly cienne and cienne juices with white wine, wine,
season with a a season with the cooking juices Dilute the garlic, and veal and add
add thickened clove of brown veal crushed clove of garlic, thickened brown crushed
gravy. Pour with chopped chicken and and sprinkle chopped sprinkle with Pour over
over the gravy. the chicken parsley. pouLETs - Chicken livers are FoIEs DE DE
POULETS are used used livers. FOIES Chicken Chicken Iivers. - Chicken livers
garnish, and They may, may, however, and for for forcemeat. forcemeat. They
however, as a a garnish, mostly as grilled on in with mushrooms, mushrooms, in
skewers, sautéed, be served served grilled saut6ed, with on skewers, be phtis. in
terrines and pâtés. and risottos, and and used used in terrines and pilafs and
(cold). PAIN FRoID -- Prepare Prepare loaf (cold). IAIN DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE
FROID Chicken Chicken loaf (see below) for and decorate decorate as as for mousse
mixture mixture (see cold cold Chicken Chicken mousse below) and (game, foie gras,
fish, Coat a a all other fish, shellfish). shellfish). Coat ail other cold cold
loaves (game, foie gras, jelly and pieces of hardand decorate decorate with with
pieces of truffles, truffies, hardmould with with jelly mould boiled eggs, eggs,
white white pickled tongue, tongue, etc. etc. boiled (hot). PAIN a loaf (hot). IAIN
DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE CHAUD cHAUD -- Prepare Prepare a Chicken Chicken loaf (see
FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Mousseline forcemeat Mousseline for cemeat (see and fiJ]
with the the Butter a a mould mould with with a a hole hole in in the middle and
fill with Butter the middle (] inch) Poach within 1 I cm. cm. (t inch) of of the
the top. top. Poach above forcemeat forcemeat to to within above
226 226

in a cnr6E - Truss the chicken as DANs DANS sA SA GELÉE as for for boiling, put put
in

-
CHICKEN
loaf in in the oyen J the Joaf oven in a bain-marie (q.v.) for 45 minutes to 1
depending on the size of the mould. hour, depending loaf is leave it it to for a a
few When the the loaf cooked, leave to settle settle for is cooked, When moments
Surround with out. Surround moments before turning out. with the the garnish before
turning appropriate to the garnish. chosen and pour over it the sauce appropriate
The following garnishes and and sauces are suitable for hot sauces are The (peas)
and mushchicken loaves: and Cream Crearn sauce; sauce: mushchicken loaves: Clamart
(peas) (salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of rooms rooms and and Allemande sauce; sauce;
Hongroise (salpicon groups) and and Sauce mushrooms and and on onions separate
groups) mushrooms ions in in separate hongroise; Manse/et (coarsely diced Monselet
(coarsely and hearts and diced artichoke artichoke hearts and Suprême SuprAme
sauce; Montpensier truffies in separate groups) and (asparagus tips in butter,
slivers and, Allemande slivers of truffies) (asparagus truffies) and Allemande and
Nantua sauce; Nantua (crayfish tails, slivers truffies) and slivers of truffies)
Veloutd sauce and Velouté sauce cooked cooked with cream. sauce; asparagus tips and
(See GARNISHES, GARNISHES, SAUCE.) eoULARDE À A LA lyonnaise or or demi-deuil.
demi-deuil. POULARDE Chic ken à Chicken i la la lyonnaise _ Stuff LYONNAISE, DITE
DITE DEMI-DEUIL StUff the ChiCKCN with With fine fiNC LYONNAISE, thc chicken and
poach in white white chicken stock. Serve truffied truffied forcemeat and chicken
surrounded with vegetables vegetables cooked cooked in in the the surrounded with
the chicken accompanied by and accompanied chicken broth, and by the strained
poaching liquor. Iiquor. cooking chicken is the great speciality of the This way of
cooking city of Lyons and and is known as as Poularde Poularde de Madame Filloux.
Filiaux. eoULARDE Chicken Maeterlinck Maeterlinck (Mont-Bry's recipe). recipe).
POULARDE MAETERLTNcT mixture of Stuffa MAETERLINCK a chicken with a chopped-up
mixture - Stuff and kidneys, lambs' sweetbreads, truffies and cocks' combs and with
very very thick chicken Velouté Velouti sauce mushrooms, bound bound with thick
chicken SAUCE) and fresh cream. Truss the chicken and wrap it (see SAUCE) in a bard
of bacon butter, bacon fat. Put the bird in a deep pot with butter, fresh bacon
rind, rind, sliced canots carrots and sliced sliced onions. strips of fresh 45
minutes. salt. Cook in the oyen. oven, covered, covered, for 45 Season with salt.
remove the trussing string. Put it in an Drain the bird and remove and surround
with 6 peeled truffies earthenware casserole and surround with seasoned pepper and
nutmeg, and 6 small seasoned with salt, pepper small slices of juices with heated
in the cooking cooking juices foie gras heated in butter. Dilute the foie (f pint,
and 4 dl. 2] dl. (scant t dl. G 2t I pint, generous cup) sherry and scant 2 cups)
thickened and strained brown meat gravy. Add (| cup) brandy and set alight. Seal
the lid of of the 4 tablespoons tablespoons <t paste. flour-and-water pas casserole
with flour-and-water te. Cook in the oyen, oven, in a good heat, for 35 minutes.
Serve in the casserole. MARTNADE DE Marinade of crncken. chicken. MARINADE DE
voLArLLa Marinade VOLAILLE - Prepare in as Chicken Chickm frilot, the same way as
fritot, using uncooked chicken. pouI,ARos A MATIcNoN Matignon POULARDE Chicken i la
Matignon. À rl LA MATIGNON - Stuff Forcemeat à d gratin mixed with one-third one-
third of the chicken with Forcemeat its volume of Quenelle stuffing (see
FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Brown in the oyen. cover with a thick Brown oven. Take out,
cool, and coyer (vegetable mixture). mixture). Wrap the chicken coating of Matignon
(vegetable in salt pork, and and tie firmly. Braise. When cooked surround and pour
the with braised braised lettuces, lettuces, and cooking juices with the cooking
juices diluted brown sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over the with Madeira and and Rich
brown bird. vor,Alrrr MAyoNNATsE DE DE VOLAILLE Chicken mayonnaise. MAYONNAISE -
Slices of cooked chicken (or other poultry) seasoned seasoned with oil, vinegar,
and pepper, set lettuce, coated coated with salt and set on on shredded shredded
lettuce, salt garnished with lettuce mayonnaise, and garnished lettuce hearts and
quartered nal"(l-ln01lea eggs, capers and anchovy fillets. (See MAYONhard-boiled
NATSE.) Chicken médaillons. u6oarlr.oNs DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE m6daillons. MÉDAILLONS
- There are several kinds. kinds. Sorne are prepared with with a croquette mixture
Some are a {'rr,rol',pt1~p shaped into discs, coated in egg and breadcrumbs and egg
and into discs, in butter. saut6ed in butter. Others, which which belong to to the
the category of (see QUENELLES) made from Chicken quenelles (see are made Chicken
QUENELLES) are quenelle forcemeat or chicken mousse, moulded into little quenelle
into !ittle poached. A cakes and and poached. A third with the third kind cakes
kind is is made with the white flesh of a are cut a boned fowl, and, finally, sorne
médaillons midaillons are cut fJ.esh finaUy, sorne supr€mes of flattened of raw
chicken, lightly fJ.attened from the breasts or suprêmes pieces. and cut into oval
pieces. Methods last two types are given below. Methods ofpreparing of preparing
these Jast
227

ufnurroNs DE i I'alg6rienne. MÉDAILLONS Chicken m6daillons médaiUons à DE voI-

VOLand breadcrumbs in egg egg and - Coat in and sauté mddaillons made with chopped
chicken and saut6 in butter. médaillons butter. mddaillon on top of I tomato tomato
which has been grilled Set each médaillon and stuffed rice pilaf mixed with diced
diced sweet peppers. and stuffed with rice SAUCE). Surround with light Tomato sauce
(see SAUCE). Beauharnais. MÉDAILLONS u6oltrroNs DE VoLATLLE Crncken VOLAILLE
Chicken m6daillons Beauharnais. BEAUHARNAn midaillons, cut from the breasts,
BEAUHARNAIS Season the médaillons, - Season artichoke saut6 in butter. Place Place
each eachmidaillon small artichoke médaillon on a smaU and sauté garnished with and
garnished I tablespoon bottom cooked in in butter and with 1 Beauharnais and topped
with a slice of sauce (see SAUCE), and Beauharnais sauce gravy mixed Surround with
with thickened brown veal veal gravy truffie. trufle. Surround with butter. breast.
MÉDAILLONS lmnlnroNs Chicken médaillons m6dqillore eut cut from from the the
breast. Chicken DE VOLAILLE n6rmlr,rs SUR DÉTAILLÉS FILETS DE the breasts suR
FTLETs voLATLLE - Remove the them into regular slices. Flatten from a roasting
chicken. Cut them these these lightly and trim into rounds or ovals. Cook according
to the recipe, following the instructions instructions given under Chicken (see
below). citelettes and and Suprêmes of chicken (see côtelettes SuprAmes of be left
with with the the médaillons. midaillons. They The filets mignons may be may also
be cooked separately, separately, as for Suprêmes SuprAmes of of chicken, and
served served on top of the médaillons. midaillons. The legs, legs, wings and and
carcases carcases of the chickens chickens used used for the midaillons can can be
used up by following the recipes given médaillons be used the recipes under Chicken
ballottines (see BALLOTTINES). Chopped cbicken chicken médaiIJons. m6daillons.
MÉDAILLONS uEomroxs EN EN CHAIR cHArR DE Cbopped voLAILLE H,c,cIfiE a roasting
chicken. VOLAILLE HACHÉE - Bone the breasts of a g. (2 oz., Chop them, adding 50 g.
oz., J 1 cup) breadcrumbs soaked g.Q oz., i in milk and squeezed out, and 50 fi g.
I cup) butter. Add to the mixture 2 tablespoons tablespoons) fresh cream, and and
tablespoons (3 tablespoons) season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Shape midaillons
from the mixture, coat coat with with egg and Shape the mixture, and sauté flour,
and or dredge dredge with with flour, saut6 in in clarified breadcrumbs, or butter.
ofthe the bird can be used to The carcase, neck, head and feet of a sa uce to to
accompany prepare chicken stock or soup, soup, or in a sauce midaillons. the
médaillons. CNcken médaiUons m6daillons Dunan. Dunan. MÉDAILLONS ufo.c.IrroNs DE
VoLATLLE Chicken DE VOLAILLE DUNAN midaillons of chopped chopped chicken mixed with
a - Make médaillons (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) lean ham and mushrooms. Coat in egg
and salpicon of Jean and sauté breadcrumbs and saut6 in butter. Set in and fi]led
filled with Set in tartlets with a a salpicon of tartlets baked baked blind blind
and truffies à d la crème. crDme. Serve with Madeira sauce (see SAUCE). voLATLLE
Chicken m6daillom A l'écarlate. I'ecarlate. MÉDAILLONS woenrous DE DE VOLAILLE
Cbicken médaillons à A L'ÉCARLATE r'6c,c.ntA.rs midaillons eut cut from from the
suprAmes À Season médaillons the suprêmes - Season and poach in in white stock. Set
in in a a dish dish in in the form of a and the forro stock. Set alternating
turban, al tongue heated terna ting them with slices of pickled tongue in white
stock. stock. a few Pour into into the of the dish a few tablespoons Pour bottom of
the dish the bottom Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). Allemande SAUCE). vol'6gyptienne.
MÉDAILLONS ufourroNls DE DE VOChicken Chicken médaiUons medaillons à i
l'égyptienne. paprika A r'fcvprrrNNe midaillons wi with L'ÉGYPTIENNE th pa prika
and LAILLE À - Season médaillons sauté butter. saut6 in butter. Arrange in form of
a a turban, in the the forro turban, alternating them with middle aubergines
sautéed rounds of aubergines saut6ed in butter. Garnish the middle Tomato sauce
(see of the dish with pilaf r1ce. rice. Surround with Tomalo SAUCE) to which has
been added the cookingjuices cooking juices diluted with white wine. u6oxrroNs DE
DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE Cbicken Chicken médaiUons m6daillorc Fédora. F6dora.
MÉDAILLONS reooRA medaillons and in white FÉDORA Season the the médaillons and
poach them them in - Season Garnish with crottons of bread fried in butter. Garnish
stock. Set on croûtons cut into uniform pieces and and stewed stewed in into
uniforro in butter. butter. cucumbers cut chicken Coat with the cooking juices
diluted with cream and chic ken Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). Velouté Chicken
médaillons rr,rEo.,ltrroNs DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE m6daillons Grignan. Chicken
Grignan. MÉDAILLONS cRIGNAN mddaillons from from chopped chicken meat. GRIGNAN -
Make médaillons Sprinkle with flour, dip in beaten egg, egg, and coyer cover with
finely chopped truffies. truffles. Cook in butter.
L'ALGÉRIENNE AILLE À t'LLcfRtENNr

llur l,
CHICKEN
Arrange on artichoke artichoke bottoms Arrange bottoms cooked in butter. Garnish
Gamish with a ragoût ragofrt of Chicken QUENELLES), and Chickm quenelles (see
QUENELLES),

cocks'combs wth Allemande cocks' combs and kidneys, bound with Allemande sauce
sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Chicken médaillons mddaillons à la mantourne.
MfDAILLoNs Chicken la mantouane. MÉDAILLONS DE DE voLAILLE A LA rl ulNrounNe
VOLAILLE À MANTOUANE - Season mCdaillons médaillons cut from the and coat them rir
milanaise (with egg and breadsuprdmes à Ia la milanaise suprêmes and Saut6 in
butter. crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan). Parmesan). Sauté butter. Set in
tartlets which have been been baked baked blind, blind, each each filled with
macaroni macaroni bound with Parmesan, Parmesan, to which a a julienne of lean ham
added. Put ham and and pickled pickled tongue tongue has has been been added. Put a
a slice slice of trufre midaillon. truffle on top of of each médaillon. MÉDAILLONS
DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE médaillons à la turque. Chicken m6daillore turque.
rrafo,ur,roNs A runeus mddaillons with paprika, and saut6 À r.r LA TURQUE - Season
sauté in Season médaillons Rice pilaf pilaf (see PILAF). Coat with the butter. Set
on top of of Rice cooking diluted with cooking juices juices diluted with white
wine, and tomatowhite wine, and tomatoflavoured veal gravy. Am Chicken milanaise I.
pourmor POULARDE À LA MTLANATSE MILANAISE - Stuff Chicken t à la milanaise the
chicken chicken with Macaroni Macaroni d à Ia la milanarbe milanaise (see
MACARONI). MACARONI). Cook, covered, covered, in the oven oyen in butter. butter.
Cook, Dilute the cooking cooking juices with white wine and and thickened veal
gravy to which tomato pur6e purée has been added, and pour over the chicken.

Atrx cI{AMwith mushrooms (white). IoULARDE Chicken with POULARDE AUX CHAMpIGNoIls
PIGNONS - As for Chicken à I'allemande. l'allemande. Surround with large Chicken d
without allowing them to colour. col our. Pour mushrooms cooked without
(se, SAUCE) over the chicken. Allemande sauce sauce (see Allemande m NlNtul à la
Nantun Nantua L I. pourenps POULARDE A À LA NANTUA - Poach Poach the Chicken
Chlcken I

Chicken Chicken d à la milanaise

Chicken I à la la milanaise II. pour.lnon POULARDE A À LA LA MTLANATSE MILANAISE

Stuff the the chicken chicken with with a a mixture of sliced sliced lambs' lambs'
sweetbreads, ham, mushrooms and trufles, truffles, bound breads, tongue, lean ham,
with with brown brown sauce sauce flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato.
Braise Braise the chicken. Surround with timbales Surround timbales of Macaroni
Macaroni d à Ia la milanalse milanaise (made (made in dariole moulds). Dilute the
cooking cooking juices with Madeira Madeira and Rich brown brown sauce sauce (sw
(see SAUCE) flavoured with tomato, tomato, and pour over the chicken. Chicken
mousse mousse and mousseline$ mousselines. MoussE MOUSSE ET MoussELrNEs MOUSSELINES
DE DE voLAILLE vOLAILLE - EntrCe, Entrée, cold or hot, prepared with with Chicken
Chicken mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). FO RCEMEA T). mousseline forcemeat
Chicken Poach the chicken chic ken in Chicken with mousseline forcemeat forcemeat -
Poach white drain and cut offthe off the breast fillets as for Chicken Chicken
white stock, drain àh la Doria. it Fill the inside of the bird with Mousseline
Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEAT), with the addition
of one-third of puree purée of Arrange this stuffing in layers, layers, alternating
alternating with the foie gras. Arrange pieces pieces of of breast fillets. Round
Round off off the top of the forcemeat to grve of the chicken. Cook Cook in a slow
oven, oyen, setting give it the shape of tray containing containing hot water,
water. dish in a tray the dish Surround Surround with wi th one one of of the the
garnishes gamishes recommended for chicken poached poached in a white stock. (See
GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Chicken with mushrooms mushrooms @rown). (brown). IoULARDE
POULARDE Aux AUX cHAMCHAMClricken pIGNoNs PIGNONS - Cook Cook the the chicken,
chicken, covered, in in the the oven oyen with butter. l0 10 minutes before the end
end of the cooking time add large mushrooms. When When cooked dilute di lute the
pan juices with white wine and Rich Rich brown sauce (se (see SAUCE) and and pour
wine and over the chicken.

n.

quenelles made of chicken in white stock. stock. Surround Surround with quenelles
(see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) to Chicken forcemeat (see to which which Shrimp Chickm
forcemeat BUTTER) has been butter (see BUTTER) been added, and with boat-shaped
pastry pastry shells shells filled with shrimps in iVcntua Nantua sauce sauce (see
(see filled with shrimps in SAUCE). Plaoe Place on each boat a slice of truffie.
Pour over the of trufre. (see SAUCE) finished with shrimp shrimp chicken Suprême
SuprAme sauce (see ~ttcr. . butter. rn Nfi''rrul Chicken à ta la Nantus Nantua n.
POULARDE A À LA NANTUA - Stuff the II. pour.,Ros Stuffthe Chicken I purée of
shrimps mixed mixed with a a very very thick chicken with a a pur6e Veloutd sauce
chicken Velouté .sauce (see SAUCE). Poach in white stock. SAUCE). Poach it Suprême
sauce (se, (see SAUCE) frnished fini shed with Pour over over it Suprdme sauce
BUTTER). Add a few pieces of trufre Shrimp butter (see BUTTER). truffle to purée.
the shrimp shrimp pur6e. pouunor A m. POULARDE À m LA NANTUA - Poach Poach I la
Nantua III. Chicken à breast fillets and stuff the chicken, drain, cut off the
breast stuff it in the as for Chicken à Doria, replacing the mixture d la Doria,
same way as that recipe recipe with puree purée of shrimps mixed with very used in
that Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). thick chicken Velouté SAUCE). Re-shape the
the chicken, chicken, placing placing the the breast fillets, in strips, fillets,
cut in SAUCE) over on top. top. Pour Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) over
the on Pour Allemande Parmesan and brown the top. chicken. Sprinkle Sprinkle with
Parmesan Serve Suprême sauce sauce (se,e (see SAUCE), finished fini shed with with
SuprAme Serve with BUTTER). Shrimp butter (see BUTTER). Shrimp Prepared in this way
the chicken chicken is also known known as Chicken Chicken Prepared r imo d- de -
la- Re yniCr e. Grimod-de-la-Reynière. G Chicken A à la N6va. Néva. poULARDE
POULARDE A À rl LA r$6vl NÉvA - Stuff Stuff the chicken Chicken FORCEMEAT) to which
with a fine Chickenforcemeat Chickenforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) Truss as raw foie
gras and diced truffies. truffles. Truss been added sorne has been some raw/oie
poach in chicken stock. Allow AJlow it to cool and for boiling, and poach white
when the chicken is quite cold, wipe it and coat with white Chaud-froid sauce (se,
(see SAUCE) prepared with some sorne of the Chaud-froid with jelly jelly and allow
to set firmly. chicken broth. Glaze with on a a bed bed of rice, rice, on on a a
slice slice of Set the chicken chicken either on Set the buttered bread, bread, or
or directly directly onto onto the the plate. plate. Serve Serve with buttered (the
salad salad rounded rounded into into a vegetable salad salad in in mayonnaise (the
vegetable dome and decorated decorated with truffies). truffles). Garnistr Gamish
with with jelly jelly shapes. shapes. dome la NCva Néva can also be served in the
same way as Chicken à h Chicken d Chicken Lambertye. à la nigoise niçoise I. pounor
POULARDE A À rl LA mgonn NIÇOISE - Cook the Chicken I covered, in butter, butter,
in the oven. oyen. Serve Serve surrounded by chicken, covered, quartered artichokes
artichokes which have have been simmered in butter, butter, braised courgettes
courgettes (zucchinis), small small new potatoes potatoes cooked in braised butter,
and a few black olives. olives. butter, cooking juices with white wine, season
season with a Dilute the cooking crushed clove clove of of garlic, garlic, thicken
thicken with with brown brown veal veal gravy crushed flavoured with tomato pur6e,
purée, and and pour pour over over the the chicken. flavoured Sprinkle with chopped
tarragon. tarragon. Sprinkle Chicken I à la nigoise niçoise II. pour.c*Dr POULARDE
A À r,r LA NIgoIsu NIÇOISE - Cook Cook the Chicken in the oven, oyen, covered.
covered. Arrange on a a dish chicken in butter in have been been slowly cooked in
in butter, butter, with tomatoes which have with courgettes tossed tossed in oil,
new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in butter, butter, diced courgettes and black
black olives. olives. Pour the the cooking juices, juices, prepared prepared as as
above, above, over over the Pour chicken, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped
tarragon. tarragon. with noodles. noodles. poULARDE POULARDE AUx AUX NoLJILLES
NOUILLES - Stuff Chicken with noodles half-cooked half-cooked in salt salt water,
drained, the chicken with noodles dressed with butter butter and and grated grated
cheese. Cook, covered covered in and dressed butter in the oven. oyen. Dilute the
pan juices juices with white wine, thicken with brown brown Dilute flavoured with
tomato pur6e, purée, and pour over the veal gravy flavoured chicken. POULARDE Ar.x
AUX HUiTRES HUÎTRES - Poach the Chicken with with oysters. oysters. IoULARDE
Chicken Surround with oysters poached in stock. Surround chicken in white stock.

n.

228
CHICKEN CHICKEN
their their own own liquor, Iiquor, and and drained. drained. Add Add boiled-down
boiled-down oyster oyster liquor liquor to (0 SuprAme Suprême sauce sauce (se (sec
SAUCE) SAUCE) and and pour pour over over the the
chicken. chicken. If Ifpreferred, preferred, the the oysters may may be he served
served on on pieces pieces of of fried fried bread bread or or toast, toast, or or
put put in the tbe sauce. sauce.
C-hicken Chicken Panurge. Panurge. Eruvfn ÉTuVÉE DE DE PoULET POULET PANURGE
PANURGE - Cut Cut the the chicken chicken up up as as for for a/ricassCe.
africassée. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper and put it it in in a
a shallow shallow pan in in 2 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter. Saut6 Sauté
the the chicken over over a a hot hot flame until until the the flesh is quite
quite firm, firm, and and remove remove from from the the pan. pan. Cut Cut into
into thin thin pieces a a 3-dl. 3-d!. (|-pint, H-pînt, l|-cup) 1t-cup) mixture of
carrots, carrots, onions onions and celery; toss toss lightly lightly in in butter,
and put in the the pan. Lay Lay the the chicken chicken pieces on on this this
vegetable vegetable foundation. Pour in in dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil
Boil down down the the liquid liquid and and pour pour in in

a a little little fresh fresh cream. cream. Cook Cook gently, gently, covered,
covered, for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Add Add stoned stoned olives olives and
and simmer simmer for for a a few few minutes' Fut Put the the chicken chicken on
on a a dish dish and and pour the sauce, fo which has been been added added a a
good good tablespoon taDleSIPocm butter, over the bird' Place thin thiD slices
slices of of the the $zzard gizzard which have been been peeled, peeJed, trimmed,
trimmed, cooked cooked in in consomm6 consommé and and fried fried in in butter;
butter; and and thin thin slices slices of of the the liver, also fried in butter;
butter; on on the the chicken' chicken. Garnish Gamish with with heart-shaped
heart-shaped bread bread cro0tons croûtons fried fried in butter. butter. Chicken
Chicken I à la la parislenne. parisienne. PouLARoe POULARDE A À LA LA PARTSIBNNE
PAR1SŒNNE Remove Remove the breast bone bone and stuff the (he chicken with with a
a Fine Fine panada panadaforcemeal (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Truss the bird bird
and and forcemeat (see poach in În white stock. Drain the chicken chieken when it
it is Îs cold; cold; cut eut off off the the pieces pieces of of add to a breast.
breast. Take out the stuffing, cut in large dice dice and and add a (see
FORCEMEAT)' cold chicken cold chicken Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat (see
FORCEMEAn. coat with Refill the interior of of the bird with wi th this mixture,and
coat with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Chm'rd-froid sauce (see white Chaud-froid place on
on and place sauce, and Slice the breasts thinly, coat with the sauce, and tongue.
Serve the the chicken. Decorate with the with trufres truffles and and surround
surround with vegetable bread, and on buttered buttered bread, chicken on chicken
vegeta ble with decorated with lined withjelly with jelly and decorated rn darioles
!ined mould ed in salad mouJded truffies. truffles. jelly shapes and shapes and
distt with jelly the dish Ornament the the borders of the Ornament jelly. garnish
with chopped chopped jelly. garnish pfntc'oURDINE powlnpn À A LA u PÉRIGOURDIl'.'E
I la périgourdine. Chicken Il Chlcken Srigowdine. POULARDE gras and seasoned and
dîced diced truffies, trufres, seasoned with foie gras chicken with the chicken
Stuff the it, Cook it, with brandy. brandy' Cook moistened with and moistened and
spicc with salt salt and spice and with it. with butter. butter, or or braise ÎL in
the oven with the oven covered, in comis comcooking is l0 minutes minutes before
before eooking about JO Add truilles trufres about Add with these. these. chicken
with the chicken pleted, and surround the and when serving surround when serving
pleted, juices diluted with diluted with cooking juices chicken the the cookîng
Pour over over the the chicken Pour (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). and Rich
Richbrown Madeira and Madeira brown sauce PIE. See PIE. Chicken pie Chlcken - See
pArf DE rl CRÉOLE A LA cnfou -os POULET PouLEr ft. cr6ole. PÀTÉ la créole. il la
Chicken pie Il Chicken (see PASTRY), PASTRY), very slightly Brioche pastry (sec
Make sorne some Brioche Make yellow with pale yellow with saffron. Preand salted,
salted, tinted pale sweetened and sweetened as sauce as down the the sauce curry,
boiling down pare separately a a chicken chicken curry, pare of fat fat and and a
bJend blend of a forcemeat forcemeat with a Make a as possible. Make much as much
for a a cook for peppered, and and cook very weil well peppered, and very lean
pork, salted and Jean a tart, of a tatt, pastry in in the the shape of out the the
pastry in fat. fat. Spread out moment in moment in the bottom, bottom, forcemeat in
layer of of forcemeat Put aa layer in the the middle. Put hollow in hollow with
another another cover with pieces ofcurried chicken on on top, top, cover place the
of curried chicken the pieces pastry. put on a]id lid of of pastry. on a and put
layer of forcemeat, and of forcemeat, more tban rise more than middle should should
rise The middle oven. The in the Bake slowly slowly in the oven. cold. orcold.
Serve hot hot or the sides. sides.Serve the pduorvrAlsE ALA re
PIÉMONTAISEpi6montaise I. PouLARDE À I. POULARDE la piémontaise Chickenlii la
CbJcken (4oz.) g.(4 diced 100g. oz.) diced with 100 mixed with risotto mixed with
risotto Stuff the chicken thechic Stuff ken with with butter. butter. oven with
inthe theaven covered, in Cook, covered. white truffles. trufres.Cook, white juices
with mix with with wine, mix white wine, with white cooking juices Dilute the the
cooking Dilute pour over chicken. over the thechicken. and pour veal gravy,and
brown veal thickened brown thickened ptftrlovrllsn ALA t l PIÉMONTAISEPoULARDE À la
pidmontaise II. POULARDE Chicken ài la Chlcken When with butter. butter. Wh
ovenwith inthe the oven covered,in Cook the the chicken, eovered, Cook en with
chicken Cover the thechic garnistrwith risotto. Cover cheese risotto. withcheese
cookedgamish cooked ken with cooking thecooking (aoz..) slices. Pour g.(4 cutin
inthin thinslices. Pourthe 100g. oz.)white whitetruffies truffieseut 100
229 229

butter butter mixed mixed wittl with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons G (t cup) cup)
thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy over over the the dish. dish.
voLAILLE - Cook Chicken pilaf. pilaf. nrr,ln PILAF DE DE VOLAILLE Cook the the rice
ricc and and arrange arrangeit it in in a aborder border on on a a dish. dish. Fill
Fili the the middle middle with with chicken chicken manner: prepared following in
in the the following manner: -prepared Cut Cut the thechicken chickeninto into
small small uniform unifonnpieces. pieces. Season Season with wjth salt salt drain.
and in butter pepper, saut6 and and sauté in butter and drain. Dilute the thepan
juices with with I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * cup) white
whitewine. wine. Add 3 dl. dl. (| (, pint, pint, l| Hcups) cups) brown brown veal
veal stock and I tablespoon tab1espoon tomato tomato pur6e. purée. Boil Boil for
for a a few few moments. moments. Strain Strain the the pan and simmer saut6 in the
chicken Replace the sauce. sauce. Replace the chicken in the sauté pan and simmer
for for a a few few moments. moments. poroNAIsE a Stuff A u polonaise. PouLEr la I
Chicken Chlckell à la polonaise. POULET À LA POLONAISE - Stuff a chicken forcemeat
(see chicken with with d à gratin gratinforcemeal (sec FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) mixed
mixed with with a a little little bread bread that that has has been been soaked
soaked and and squeezed squeezed out, out, and and :hopped parsley. parsley. Truss
Truss as as for for boiling. Brown Brown quickly quickly in in very and casserole
in an earthenware bird the Put hot buttei. Put the bird in an casserole finish
finish cooking cooking in in the the oven. oyen. Take Take off off the the trussing
strings and and squeeze squeeze over over the the chicken chicken a a few few drops
drops of of lemon lemon juice. Sprinkle with with browned browned butter butter in
in which whicb some sorne fine fine breadcrumbs have been been fried, fried,
allowing 25 25 g. (5 generous cup) oz., (l (1 oz.,* oz.,! cup) cup) breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs to to 150 lSO E. g. (5 oz., generous * butter. butter. pour-mpe LA
PoRTUGAISE Chicken Il la la portugaise portugaise I. 1. POULARDE A À LA PORTUGAlSE
Chicken t Cook Cook the the chicken, chicken, covered, covered, in in the the oven
aven with with butter. butter. To Ta serve, serve, and topped surround sur round
with with 8 8 tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed and topped with with browned
browned crumbs. crumbs. Dilute Dilute the the cooking juices juices with with white
white wine, wine, thicken thicken with with brown a clove clove of of brown veal
veal gravy gravy flavoured with witb tomato tomato and and a garlic, and garlic,
and pour over olier the the chicken. chicken. pourmpn u PoRruGArsE portugaise II.
Chicken i la Chlcken la portugaise n. POULARDE A À LA PORTUGAISE it is oven with
covered, in chicken, covered, Cook Cook the the chîcken, in the the oyen with
butter. butter. When When it is tomatoes diced tomatoes in the cooked, put in
three-quarters cooked, the pot peeled, peeled, diced I and tablespoon in butter,
have been which have been cooked in and 1 tablespoon onion. chopped onion. chopped
juices over the chicken and cooking juiœs the cooking To serve, serve, pour the To
over the chicken and parsleY. with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle chicken the
chicken PRJNcEssr-Poach PouLARDE PRINCE.'iSF. - Poach the Chickenprinc€ds. POULARDE
stock. chicken stock. quantity ofwhite of white chicken in a a small small quantity
in with filled wilh pastry cases cases fiJled of pastry a garnish of with a
Surround with Surround in buttec butter. simmerod in and truffies trufles simmered
asparagus tips, and buttered asparagus buttered chicken. the chicken. over the
SAUCE) over sauce (see SAUCE) Pow Allemande Allemande sauce Pour punfn DE chicken
Pur6e of of chicken voLAILLE -- Purée DE VOLAILLE pur6e. pURÉE Chicken purée.
Chicken as a garnish or filling. alone or or as served aJone poached in white
stock, stock, served in white poached a garnisb or filling. as a and used used as
la reine, reine, and purde à it la called purée It is is sometimes sometimes called
It a bouchdes, pastry' such as bouchées, such as with pastry, made with garnish for
for entrées entries made vol-an-vent. and vol·au-Yent. rissoles and used for the is
also also use<! cream, is offwith cream, pur6e, finished finished offwith Chicken
purée, Chicken for the reine. Ia reine. coulis à ir la called coulis soup calle<!
with Prepared voLAILLE DE quenelles. Chicken quenelles. QUENELLES QLJENELLEs DE
VOLAILLE- Prepared with (q.v.). forcemeats (q.v.). various forcemcats various
Insert ntcnNcs -- Insert A LA m RÉGENCE PouLARDE À la régence. r6gence. POULARDE I
la Chicken il! Chîcken it in in brown brown and braise braise it chicken and the
chîcken fat inlo into the pieces of bacon fat of bacon saut6ed in sweetbreads sa
calves' sweetbreads of calves' with slices of Surround wi Lutter. Surround th
slices utéed in quenelles, cocks' chicken quenelles, in MadeÎra, Madeira, chicken
cooked in truffies cooked butter, trumes butter, cocks' in bouillon. bouillon.
prawns cooked cooked in large prawns and large combs and combs cookof the the
cooksomeof (seeSAUCE), with sorne SAUCE), with sauce (see Rdgence sauce Polu
Régence Pour chicken. the chicken. added. over over the liouor added, ine liquor
ing -Wfibf. ofslîces. slices. instead of usedinstead can he be used sweetbreads can
braised sweetbreads Whole braised pourlnpn A LA REINE - Stuff the chicken la reine.
I Chickcn Chickel1 à la reme. POULARDE À LA REINE - Stuff the chicken in Poach in
croquettes. Poach for Chicken Chicken croquelfes. as for mixture as same mixture
with the thesame with with liquid. Surround Surround with of lîquid. minimum of
with the the minimum white stock, with white stock, purCe. Chicken purée. wth
Chicken pastrycases filledwith casesfilled small pastry small of lid,aathin sliceof
thinslice form of ofaalid, inthe the fonn case, in Puton oneach each pastrycase,
Put (see SAUCE) over the dish. sauce (sec Pour Allemande sauce truffie.Pour
truffie. SA UCE) over the dish. ALA LARENAISSANCE RENAISSANcE PoulAnosÀ
laRenaissance. Renaissance. POULARDE Chickenài la ChlckeD liquid. minimumof
ofliquid. the minimum with the stockwith white stock inwhite chickenin Poach
aachicken Poach (see garnish (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Renaissance garnish with
Renaissance Surround with Surround
CHICKEN CHICKEN
(see SAUCE), Pottr Suprême Suprdme sauce sauce (see SAUCE), made made with with
mushroom mushroom Pour essence, over over the the chicken. chicken. essence,
pouLARDE (Cr6ole cookery). Chicken with with rice rice à la Bourbon i la Bourbon
(Créole cookery). POULARDE Chlcken AU RIZ RIz À A LA rA BOURBON souRsoN -- Lightly
Lightly brown brown aa chicken chicken in in fat. fat. Add Add aa AU finely chopped
chopped cooked cooked on onion, 2 car carrots, bunch of of herbs, herbs, ion, 2
rots, aa bunch finely pepper and salt, pepper and 1 I tablespoon pur6e. Add
tablespoon tomato tomato purée. Add stock stock and and salt, cook on on very very
slow slow heat heat for for about about It l| hours. hours. Boil Boil down down the
the cook liquid. liquid. Scald, drain, drain, and and cook cook rice rice in in
chicken chicken stock. When soft, stock. When soft, Scald, place the arrange on on
a a dish dish and and place pieces round chicken pieces the chicken round it. it.
arrange pour over Strain the the stock stock and and pour over the dish. Decorate
Decorate with with slices the dish. slices Strain of carrot. carrot. of Chicken and
and rice rice with with suprême suprOme sauce. sauce. POULARDE IoULARDE AU AU RIZ
Rrz Chlcken supn0l,s -- Half Half cook sAUcE SUPRÊME cook a a chicken, chicken,
trussed trussed as as for for boiling SAUCE boiling and covered covered with with
bacon fat. in bacon fat, in white white stock. stock. When When halfhalfand cooked,
drain drain the Put the the bird. bird. Put the stock stock through through a a
fine fine strainer cooked, strainer and replace the pot. Add (9 oz., chicken in g.
(9 in the the chicken the pot. 250 g. Add 250 oz.,lJ cups) li cups) and blanched
and and drained drained rice, (3 rice, stock, stock, and and 2 2 tablespoons
blanched tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking cooking
ail all together, tablespoons) together, over over slow slow heat. part of Using
part cooking liquor liquor prepare prepare a of the the cooking a Suprême sauce
SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see chicken with with ri rice, Flank the
chicken ce, and and serve with suprême suprAme sauce seuce serve with and the
chicken broth. the chicken broth. and

An Anold-fashioned old-fashioned spit spitfor forchickens chickens (Grün) Griin\

Surround ions cooked Surround with with carrots carrots and and on onions cooked in
in the chicken the chicken broth. broth. poULARDE ROSIÈRE Chlcken a chicken
RosiCre. POULARDE Chicken Rosière. RosriRE -- Stuff Stuffa chicken with with
Chickenforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Chickenforcemeat with with cream uearn (see
FORCEMEAT). Truss Truss it, it, laying laying the flat against feet fiat the feet
against the the sides. Rub it it ail all over sides. Rub with over with lemon juice
and lemon juice and wrap wrap it it entirely entirely in in bards bards of of bacon
bacon fat. fat. Line Line the the bottom bottom of of a a casserole casserole with
with strips fresh bacon rinds, strips of of fresh bacon rinds, rounds carrot and
ion and herbs. Place rounds of ofcarrot and on onion and a a bunch bunch of
ofherbs. Place the the chicken ver the chicken on on top and add add sufficient top
and sufficient veal veal stock stock to to co cover the chicken. chicken. Simmer
Simmer with with the lid on the lid on for for about about 50 50 minutes. minutes.
Blanch, Blanch, trim press under and press trim and under a a weight weight for for
30 30 minutes minutes 3 3 calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, having having
removed removed ail all membranes. membranes. About About 35 35 minutes minutes
before before serving, serving, eut cut the the sweetbreads in slices I cm. cm.
sweetbreads in slices1 (t just coyer (| inch) inch) thick, put in pan, just thick,
put in a a pan, cover with with white white veal veal stock, stock, add piece of
add a a piece of butter butter and and simmer. simmer.

Roasting chickens, Roasting chickens, Angers (French (French Government Government

Tourisi Tourist Office) Ofice)

chlcken. poULARDE POULARDE ndrn RÔTIE - Truss the Roast chicken. the chicken
chicken and and season inside and and outside. Coyer season Cover the breast breast
with with a a thin thin slice slice
-

of bacon fat, and roast roast in the the oven oyen or the spit. ofbacon cooking or
on on the spit. For cooking see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average
cooking times, see cooking limes times for roasts. for Serve with the the cooking
cooking juices, and watercress. Serve and watercress. Roast chicken chlcken ir à
I'anglaiss. l'anglaise. poULARDE POULARDE RÔTIE À L'ANGLAISERoast n6rre A
L'ANGLATsE Roast the chicken in the usual way. Surround Surround with with slices
slices of of grilJed sausages, sausages, and serve serve with Bread sauce bacon or
grilled (see with Bread sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Roast chicken chicken d à
I'anglaise l'anglaise may may also also be be prepared in Roast in the the Roast
turkey turkey it à I'anglaise l'anglaise (see (see TURKEY). same way as as Roast
same TURKEY). Chlcken with with rock rock (coarse) (coarse) salt salt. powl.RDE
POULARDE AU AU GROS Chicken cRos SEL sEL Poach the the chicken in in white white
stock. stock. Serve with its its strained Poach Serve with strained and rock
(coarse) salt. cooking Iiquor cooking liquor and rock salt. 230 230

Roast chicken (A.B.e.) Roast chicken (A.B.C.)

CHICKEN CHICKEN
Prepare Prepare f litre litre (1| (I! pints, pints, lf Il pints) pints) fresh fresh
Mushroom Mushroom purie (see (see MUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS). Add Add 2 2 dl. dl. (] (1
pint, pint, scant seant cup) fresh cream to to bring bring it ie to to the the
consistency consistency of of an an ordinary ordinary sauce, sauce, and and cream
mix into into it il 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) oz.) mushrooms mushrooms chopped and
and cooked. cooked. mix

white white stock stock or or broth, broth, the the sauce sauce may may be he
thickened thickened with with a a little liUle butter butter and and flour flour
worked worked together. together. The The same same applies applies to to d à blanc
blanc chicken chicken saut6s. sautés.
Saut6 Sau té the the chicken chicken in in butter butter d à blanc. blanc. Dilute
Dil Ule the Ihe cooking cooking juices juices with dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, scant
seant + t cup) cup) white white stock stock and and boil bail with I1 dl. down.
down. Stir Stir in in 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant 1: cup)
cup) chicken chicken Velouti Veloute sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), add add
2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tabletablespoons) spoons) Soubise Soubise purie
purée (see (sec PUREE), PURÉE), 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) cream cream and and 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,t oz., 1cup) cup) butter.
butter. Strain Strain the the

Sautied Sautéed chicken cruckco Alexandra. Alexandra. PoULET POULET SAUTE SAUTÉ
ALExANDRA ALEXANDRA

Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove rem ove the the barding and and trussing
Drain and surround surround with with the the slices slices of sweetbread. Coat
Coat the strings and chicken and the sauce and the the garnish gamish with wÎth
some sorne of orthe sauce and and serve serve the the rest separately. separately.
rest

à la la Rossini. Rossini. poULARDE POULARDE A À r,c, LA nosslNl ROSS1NT - Cook Cook

the the Chicken. I Chicken ehicken, covered, covered, in in butter butter in in the
the oven. oyen. Set Set it it on on a a dish dish and and chicken, surround it il
with with slices slices of/ore of foie gras gras tossed tossed in in butter.
butter. Placn Place 2 2 surround slices of of trufre lruffle heated heated in in
butter butter on on each each slice slice of offoie foie gras. gras. slices
Pour over over the the chicken chicken its cooking cooking juices diluted dilutoo
with w:îth Pour Madeira and and truffie-flavoured truffle-fiavoured Rich Rich brown
sauce sauce (see (see Madeira he placed placed in pastry pastry SAUCE). The slices
of foie gras may be

sauce. sauce.

ENNE ENNE - Saut6 Sauté

cases, or or on on slices slices ofbread fried in in butter. butter. cases. salado

sluDE SALADE DE DE voLAILLE VOLA1LLE - Set Set sliced cooked Chicken salad.
shredded lettuce, lettuce, sprinkle sprinkle with chicken on a foundation of
shredded Vinaigre/le sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) and and garnish gamish with with
lettuce leltuce Vinaigrette hearts and quartered hard-boiled eggs. hearts Saureoo
chicken. pour,Ers POULETS sAUTEs SAUTÉS - Small Small tender tender fowls, Saut6ed
welghing from 900 to 1800 1800 g. (2 to 4 lb.) lh.) are more mOrc suited to
weighing this way way than than fat fowls and capons. The The chicken being cooked
this he saut6ed sautéed rapidly rapidly in butter, butter, in in oil oil or or in
fat, but hut should shouJd should be juices. he allowed to ta boil boil in its
itsjuices. not b€ To cut eut up the chicken for cooking, divide it into ioto
joints. joints. Cut away the leg at its thickest part, having cut through through
the joint. Heating the feet makes them easier to lo skin. Spring chickens are sim
ply divided into ioto halves, which whÎch are simply lightly flattened. flaltened.
lightly ofchicken To sauté pieces of chicken and put them (hem in sauti à Season
pieces d blanc. Season a heated butter. butter. Saut6 Sauté the the pieces without
without allowing a!!owing a pan of heated at moderate heat. hrown. Cover Coyer the
lhe pan and cook al them to brown. Pour off the Take out Oul the the wings and
tirs\. pour the butter, Take and breasts first. juice or white stock, mushroom
juice dilute the the pan juices with with white cream, and add a sauce. Garnish.
(scant i cup) butter or sauti il it brull. brun. Heat 3 lablespoons tablespoons
(seant! To sauré add seasoned seasoned pieces of chicken. Brown well oil in a pan
pan and add and cook over a low heat. After 6 or 8 cover, and on bOlh both sides,
sides, cover, and the of breast, breast, and the pieces of minutes, lake take out
out the the wings and most delieate, delicate, are being the mûst keep them them
warm. warrn. (These parts, heing for cooked the soonest.) Leave the legs and
carcases to cook for 8 to 12 minutes, according to sizc. size. to 12 cooking fat,
pieces of ehicken, chicken, remove remove the the cooking Take out out the the
pieces juices wilh in the recipe with the liquid specified in dilute the juiees -
wine, juices, etc. and Boil down this liquor liquor by by half and etc. Boil stock
or meat jUlces, add add a a sauce. sauce. pan, coyer keep cover and and keep pieces
of chicken in in the pan, of crucken Put Put back back the the pieces Garnish.
warm, wann, but but avoid avoid boiling. Gamish. and cook cook the the pieces To
sauté sauti à la minagire. Brown and Ta it bnm brun à d la I tahleAdd 1 tableTake
[hem out of of the pan. Add chicken as as ahove. above. Take them out of of chicken
pan and colour and allow allow to to colour liquor in in the the pan spoon flour to
spoon f10ur to the the liquor
and liquid. Boil Boil down down and wine or other liquid. slightly. th wine Dilute
wi with or other slightly. Dilute (+ pint, or pint, scant consomm6 or 2 dL cup)
white white stock, stock, consommé then add 2 dl. (1 scant cup) then add 15
minutes, with a a wooden wooden 12 to minutes, stining stirring with water. Cook
Cook for for 12 to 15 water. spoon, and strain. spoon, and strain. pan, pour the
pieces or in the the chicken in the covered covered pan, Replace the of ehicken the
pieces avoid boiling. warm, but but avoid sauce sauce over over and and keep keep
warm, saut6ed garnishes for chicken include saUléed for sautéed saut6ed chîcken The
The many many gamishes pieces of glazd carroIs, celeriac, brussels brussels of
celeriac, carrots, smaU small pieces aubergines, aubergines, glazed (zucchinis),
marrows (zucchinis), sprouts in in butter, cucumbers, baby baby marrows sprouts
butter, cucumbers, glazed onions, noodles, cream, small onions, noodles, in butter
or cream, small glazed sweetcom butter or sweetcorn in macaroni, macaroni, riee,
rice, etc. etc. pan juices of of the the the diluted diluted pan follow, the In In
the which follow, the recipes which as added to to them, such such as have sauces
chicken chicken saut6es should sauces added should have (demi-glace) sauce (demi-
glace) Rich brown brown sauce stock or or Rich thickened thickened brown brown veal
veal stock (see SAUCE). added to to them. them. sauce can can he be added Tomato
sauce (see SAUCE). Tomato and preparations are with wine wine and are diluted
diluted with When When the the sauté saut6 preparations

minutes, minutes, stirring. stirring. Put Put back back the chicken chicken in in
the the pan pan and and simmer 8 to to l0 JO minutes minutes without without
boiling. boiling. When When serving the the chicken, chicken, garnish gamish with
with 2 2 diced diced aubergines aUbel"gJllles saut6ed sautéed in in oil. Pour the
the sauce over the the chicken ehicken and and sprinkle with wilh chopped parsley.
parsley. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chickeo ambassadrice. ambassadrice. PouLEr POULET
sAUTE SAUTÉ AMBAsAM BASSADRIcE Sauté the chicken and 8 mushrooms mushrooms in in
butter butter d à SADR1CE - Saut6 brun. Dllute DiJute the pan pan juices juices
with with + dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant scant I À (+ cup)
Madeira. Madeira. Boil Boil down the liquid and and pour pour in in l+ It dl. dl.
Hgrary. Cook at pint, pint,1 eup) thickened thickened veal gravy. at boiling
hoiling point point for for a a J cup) few moments. 8 Garnish Gamish the cooked
chicken with with 8 cocks' coeks' combs combs and and 8 stock,4 cocks' kidneys
kidneys cooked cookcd in light ligbt stock, 4 chicken livers livers saut6ed sautéed
in butter, bUller, the mushrooms, and and 8 slices of of truffie. trume. Coat Coat
with with the sauce. sauce. A s,c'urE À mode. PoULET Sautded Sautéed chicken
chicken A fi I'ancienne l'ancienne mode. POULET SAUTÉ MoDE- Saut6 L'ANcIENNE
L'ANCIENNE MODESaute the the chicken cbicken in butterdblanc.Dilute butter à blanc.
Dilute cup) white or the pan with with l| q dl. (t t eup) white stock stock or the
juices in the pan $ pint,3 stir stock. boil mushroom stock, boi1 down to two-thirds
two-thirds of of its its volume, volume, stir (see SAUCE) sauce (sec SAUCE) Velouti
sauce in U dl. ü in 1-1 dl. i cup) chicken Velouté $ pint, 3 (2 oz., and g. (2 oz.,
t 50 g. and boil { cup) butter, and and hoil for 5 minutes. Add Add 50 (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped truffies tablespoons (3 strain. Add 2 tahlespoons
strain. port. (6 tahlespoons, cup) port. scantI and 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, seant
and t cup) garnish with rosettes with rosettes and garnish sauce and Coat the
chicken with the sauce of puff pastry. ANNETTE Saut6 PouLET SAUTE slur6 ANNETTE
Annette. POULET chicken Aooette. Saut6ed chickell - Sauté juices with with white
white pan juices Dilute Ihe the pan d brun. Dilute in hutter butter à the chicken
in and liquid, and Boil down down the the liquid, I chopped shallot. Boil add 1 and
add wine and for a a brown grary. Boil pint, 3 eup) cup) Ihickened thickened brown
l| add 1 dl. Ct add ~ dl. Boil for $ pint, parsley, chervil few moments. moments.
Add t few I tablespoon chopped lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of lemon a squeeze
squeeze of and tarragon, tarragon, a and fresh butter. fresh (see potatoes (see
Annette po/aioes of Annelle in a a crust crust of chicken in Set tbe the ehicken
Set sauce. with the sauce. Coat wi POTATOES). Coat th the potatoes with straw
potatoes is is made made with straw potatoes The crust crust of Annette potatoes
The dish with a a small potatoes, hut small dish but with Anna pOlatoes, like Anna
in butter cooked in butter like cooked cake. hollow cake. form a a hollow potatoes
10 to form put in the middle of of the potaloes put ARcHIDUc -PoULET SAUTÉ sA,ur6
ARCHIDUC Archduke. POULET chickm Archdllke. Saut6ed chicken Sautéed cooked it is is
half half cooked When it blanc. When it blanc. in butter butter à chicken in Saut6
the the chieken Sauté lightly (3 tablespoons) onion lightly chopped onion
tablespoons) chopped 2 tahlespoons tablespoons (J add 2 add paprika. pinch of of
paprika. a pinch and a in bUller, cooked in butter, and cooked (6 tabJespoons,
juices with scant I cU. tablespoons, scant with 1 dl. (6 Dilute the cooking juices
the eooking Dilute (+ pinl, pint, t cup) pour in in 11 l+ dl. dl. (a down, pour
wine, boil boil down, cup) white white wine, J cup) 1 1 cup) g.(2 cup) oz., ! Add
50 50 g. moments. Add for a a few few moments. and boil boil for cream and * cup)
cream (2 OZ., juice to and sl'rain. st'rain' sauce and the sauce lemon juice to the
a squeeze of lemon and a squeeze of butter and butter and in ehunks chunks and cut
in cucumbers CUI with cucumbers chicken with Garnish the the chieken Gamish with
the the sauce. sauce. Coat with in butter. butter. Coat simmered in simmered
DUc SALVATOR sALvATon DUC

Sautded Sautéed chicken ch.ickcn a a I'algSrienne. l'algérienne. PouLET POULET

seurf SAUTÉ A À L'arc6ruL'ALGÉRIthe the chicken chicken in in oil oil d il brun.
brull. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add add I1 tablespoon tahlespoon chopped
chopped onion. onion. Take Take out out the the chicken; chicken; put in in the the
pan pan a a crushed crushed garlic garlic clove clove and 2 peeled, peeled, drained
and chopped tomatoes; lomatoes; cook cook for for 8 8

-
ARcHIsnurf ARCH1PoULE-t SAUTÉ Archduke Salvator. Salvator. POULET chicken Archduke
Sautffi chicken Sautéed Archduke. chickm Archduke. as for for Sautéed Sautied
chicken Prepare as - Prepare garnish (see GALETTE) and garnjsh galette (see
GALETTE) and Potato galelle a POlala Set it it on on a Set and mushrooms and
butter, sautéed saut6ed mushrooms in hutter, simmered in cucumbers simmered with
cucumbers with

of truffle. trufle. slices of sUces 23r 231

CHICKEN CHICKEN
There are are numerous numerous ways ways of of cooking Chicken Chicken Arch&tke.
Archduke. The basic basic recipe recipe is is saut6ed sautéed chicken chicken to to
which which has has been been added added onion on ion and and cream. cream. The
method method of of diluting diluting the the juices juices may be be varied varied
by by using using brandy brandy or or Madeira, Madeira, the sauce finished off with
cucumbers, with whisky whisky or or port, port, the the garnish garnish composed of
cucumbers, mushrooms, mushrooms, quartered quartered artichokes artichokes or or
truffies. truffles. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with artichokes.
artichokes. pouLET POULET slur6 SAUTÉ lux AUX ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS - Saut6 Sauté
the the chicken in in butter butter d à brun. brun. When When it it is is half-
cooked, half-cooked, add add 12 12 quarters quarters of of well weil blanched
blanched artichokes. artichokes. Finish Finish cooking cooking all all these these
together. together. Take Take out out the the chicken chicken and and artichokes.
artichokes. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant + 1cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil
boil down, down, pour pour in in 1+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, J t cup) cup)
thickened thickened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy. Set Set the the chicken
chicken on on a dish, dish, garnish garnish with with the the quarters quarters of
artichokes, artichokes, and and coat coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. The The chicken chicken may may also
also be be garnished garnished with with artichoke artichoke bases, bases, cooked
cooked in in a a flour-and-water fiour-and-water court-bouillon, court-bouillon,
sliced sliced and and saut6ed sautéed with with the the chicken. chicken. Sautied
Sautéed chicken chicken with with basil. basil. pouI"E-r POULET slur6 SAUTÉ AU AU
BAsrLrc BASILIC juices Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter, butter,
browning browning it. it. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with with 2 2 dl. dl.
({ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine wine and and add add I1
tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped basil. basil. Boil Boil down down the the
liquid liquid by by half. half. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., juice. t cup)
cup) butter; butter; mix mix well. weIl. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with
with this thisjuice. * Sautded Sautéed chicken chicken I à la la biarrotte.
biarrotte. pouLEr POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À r.l LA srA,nBIARRorrE ROTTE - Saut6 Sauté
the the chicken chicken in in oil oil d à brun. brun. juices with Dilute Dilute the
the pan panjuices with white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, and and pour
pour in in I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * 1 cup) cup)
Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add a a crushed crushed
clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with
125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) cipes cèpes (q.v.) (q.v.) saut6ed sautéed in in oil,
oil, 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) diced diced potatoes potatoes saut6ed sautéed in
in oil, oil, a a peeled, peeled, diced diced and and saut6ed sautéed aubergine
aubergine and and a a medium-sized medium-sized onion onion cut cut in in rings
rings and and fried. fried. Arrange Arrange in in separate separate groups groups
round round the the chicken. chicken. Sauteed Sautéed chicken chicken ià la la
boh6mienne. bohémienne. pournr POULET s.lurf SAUTÉ A À ul LA BoHEMTENNE BOHÉMIENNE
- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken, chicken, seasoned seasoned with with paprika,
paprika, in in oil oil d à brun. brun. When When it it is is half-cooked, half-
cooked, add add 4 4 sweet sweet pimentos pimentos peeled peeled and and cut cut in
in large large strips, strips, 2 2 tomatoes tomatoes peeled peeled and and cut cut
in in thick cut in in small small dice dice and and thick slices, slices, a a
medium-sized medium-sized onion on ion cut blanched, blanched, a a crushed crushed
clove clove ofgarlic of garlic and and a a teaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped
fennel. fenne!. Dilute add + 1dl. dl. (3 (3 tabletableDilute the the pan pan juices
juices with with white white wine, wine, add spoons, spoons, scant scant + t cup)
cup) thickened thickened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, and and
finish finish with with a a squeeze squeeze of oflemon lemon juice. juice. Set
Setthe thechicken chicken on ona adish, dish, coat coatwith with the thesauce sauce
and and serve servewith with Rice Riced àI'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE).
RICE). Saut6ed Saotéed chicken chicken Boivin Boivin (Mont-Bry's (Mont-Bry's
recipe). recipe). pouI,Er POULET slurE chicken lightly SAUTÉ BorvrN BOIVIN - 'Cook
'Cook a a jointed jointedchicken lightly in in butter, butter, browning browning a
a little little on on both both sides. sides. When When the the pieces pieces are
are lightly lightly browned, browned, put put in in the the pan pan 24 24 small
small onions onions that that have have been been tossed tossed in in butter,
butter, 12 12 quarters quarters of of small small blanched blanched artichokes,
artichokes, and and 24 24 small small new new potatoes potatoes of of uniform
uniforro size size and and shape. shape. Season. Season. Cook, Cook, covered,
covered, on on a a gentle gentle heat. heat. 'Drain 'Drain the the pieces pieces of
of chicken. chicken. Set Set them them on on a a dish dish and and arrange arrange
the the garnish garnish of of onions, on ions, artichokes artichokes and and
potatoes potatoes juices diluted round roundthem. them. Pour Pourover overthe the
chicken chickenthe thecooking cookingjuices diluted with pot-au-feu btoth, broth,
with with the the addition addition of of2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 withpot-
au-fat tablespoons) tablespoons)dissolved dissolved meat meat glaze, glaze,
sharpened sharpened with with a a squeeze squeeze oflemon lemonjuice, juice, and
and with with butter butter added.' added.' of Sauteed Sautéed chicken chicken ià
la la bordelaise. bordelaise. pourpr POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À re LA
BoRDELAISEBORDELAlSE - Saut6 Sautéthe thechicken chickenin inaamixture mixture of
ofoil oil and and butter. butter. Finish Finish as as in in the the recipe recipe
for for Sautied Sautéed chickm chicken with with white white wine wine (see
(seebelow). below).Add Add to tothe thesauce sauce I1tablespoon tablespoon Tomato
Tomato sauce sauce(see (see SAUCE) and and aa crushed crushed clove clove of
ofgarlic. garlic. SAUCE) Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 125 125
g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) sliced sliced potatoes potatoes sautéed in in butter, butter,
2 2blanched blanched artichokes artichokes cut cut in in quarters quarters and and
saut6d cookedin in butter, butter, several several sprigs sprigsfried fried
parsley, parsley, and2 and 2mediummediumcooked sized onions onions cut cut in in
rings rings and and fried. fried. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. sized

Sautée<! chicken à la bordelaise

Sautéed chicken i à la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. pouLET POULET slurf SAUTÉ A

À r.l LA Sauteed BouRcuIGNoNNs BOURGUIGNONNE - Saut6 Sauté the the chicken in
butter butter d à brun. When three-quarters cooked add 12 12 small glazed glazed
onions, 12 12 mushthree-quarters rooms lightly lightly cooked in butter butter and
2 2 slices blanched, diced diced rooms lean bacon bacon lightly lightly fried fried
in butter. butter. lean Take out out the the chicken chicken and its its
accompaniments. Dilute Dilute the the Take pan pan juices juices with with 2 2 dl.
(] (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) red red wine and add a crushed clove clove of of
garlic. garlic. Boil Boil down down to to two-thirds, two-thirds, add add l] 11 dl.
crushed (t pint, pint, 3 t cup) cup) Rich Rich brown brown sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE), cook cook at $ boiling point point for for a a few few moments, moments,
and and strain. strain. boiling Surround the the chicken chicken with with the the
garnish, garnish, and coat coat with with the the Surround sauce. Heart-shaped
Heart-shaped crottons croûtonsfried in butter butter may may be be added. added.
sauce. fried in Sautéed chicken chicken I à la la bourguignonne bourguignonne or or
en en matelote. matelote. pouLET POULET Saut6ed
SAUTÉ A À r,c, LA souncurcNoNNE, BOURGUIGNONNE, EN EN MATELoTE MATELOTE slurf -

in butter butter Fry in

2 slices slices blanched blanched lean lean bacon bacon cut cut in in big big dice.
dice. Add Add 12 12 blanched blanched 2 small onions, onions, cook cook till till
golden, golden, and and add add 12 12 small small mushrooms. mushrooms. small
Remove these these ingredients, ingredients, which which form forro the the
garnish, garnish, and Remove brown quickly quickly pieces pieces of of chicken
chicken in in the the same same fat. fat. When When they they brown are half-
cooked, half-cooked, put put the the garnish garnish back back in in the the pan,
pan, cover,and cover, -and are cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. cook Take out
out the the chicken chicken and and the the garnish. garnish. Dilute Dilute the the
pan pan juices juices Take (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) red red wine, wine,
boil boil down down to to half, half, and and with 2 2 dl. d!. $ with thicken with
with I 1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter mixed mixed with with a a little
little flour. fiour. thicken Strain. Strain. Surround the the chicken chic ken
pieces pieces with with the the garnish garnish and and pour pour the the Surround
sauce over. over. sauce Sautéed chicken chicken in in butter butter or or ià la la
minute. minute. pouLET POULET slurE SAUTÉ lu AU Saut6ed BEURRE, A À r,c, LA MTNUTE
MINUTE - Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter it à brun. brun.
BEURRE, To serve, serve, squeeze squeeze lemon lemon juice juice over, over, pour
pour on on the the very very hot hot To cooking butter, butter, and and sprinkle
sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. cooking Sautéed chicken
chicken with with cOpcs cèpes I. 1. pournr POULET s,c,ur6 SAUTÉ lux AUX ciprs CÈPES
Saut6ed Sauté the the chicken chicken in in oil oil or or in in a a mixture mixture
of of oil oil and and butter. butter. Saut6 When it it is is three-quarters three-
quarters cooked, cooked, add add 300 300 g. g. (ll (II oz.) oz.) white white When
cèpes (q.v.) (q.v.) which which have have been been cut cut into into thick thick
slices slices and and saut6ed sautéed cipes in oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with
with chopped chopped onion. onion. in juices with Drain the thechicken chicken and,
and cCpes. cèpes. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with I1dl. dl. Drain (6 (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * 1cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil
boil down down and and add add 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., It cup) cup) butter.
butter. 50 Gamish the the chicken chicken with with the the cipes, cèpes, coat with
with the the juice, juice, Garnish chopped parsley. parsley. A A crushed crushed
clove clove of of and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped and garIic may may be be
added. added. garlic Sautéed chicken chicken with with cdpes cèpes II. n. pourer
POULET slurf SAUTÉ AUx AUX ciprs CÈPES Saut6ed Prepare the the chicken chicken as
as for for Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken with with white white wine wine Prepare
(see below). below). Garnish Garnish with with Clpes Cèpes d à la la bordelare
bordelaise (see (see MUSHMUSH(see ROOMS). Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce
and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped ROOMS). parsley. parsley. 232
232
CHICKEN CHICKEN
and Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with buttered buttered French
French beans, beans, and in truffies truffies which which have have been been cut
cut in in thick thick strips strips and and heated heated in sherry. Coat with with
the the sauce. sauce. sherry. Coat slur6 Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken fermi0re
fernùère or or I à la la paysanne. paysanne. PouLET POULET SA uTÉ plvslNrrrs Saut6
the chicken as above. Add rrnMrins, FERMIÈRE, A À rlc, LA PAYSANNE - Sauté the
chicken as above. Add (see l+ It dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, J t oup) cup) Vegetable
Vegetable fon&te fondue (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Finish Finish cooking cooking
together. together. Set Set the the chicken chîcken and and vegetables vegetables
in in an an earthenware earthenware dish dish or or casserole, casserole, add add 2
2 tablespoons tablespoons diced diced lean lean ham ham and and simmer, simmer,
covered, covered, in in the the oven. oyen. (* pint, t cup) juices with 1| Dilute
Dilute the the cooking cooking juices with It dl. dl. (t pint, I cup)

Sauteed Sa utéed chicken chicken chasseur chasseur

Sautéed chicken chicken chasseur. chasseur. PouLEt POULET sAUTE SAUTÉ cHAssEUR
CHASSEUR - Saut6 Sauté Saut6ed of oil and butter. When it it is threethreethe
chicken in a mixture of mushrooms. quarters cooked, add 125 g. (4 oz.) sliced
mushrooms. scant * Dilute the pan pan juices juices with I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
ta blespoons, scant t cup) cup) shallot, boil a chopped shallot, Add a boil down,
down, add add It dl. dl. white wine. Add (| (t pint, pint, 3 t cup) thickened veal
gravy and I t dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, for a a few (see SAUCE). Boil
sauce (see scant Boil for few Tomato sauce cup) Tomato scint t cup) finely I
tablespoon finely and 1 1 tablespoon brandy and add I moments, add parsley, chervil
and tarragon. chopped parsley, chopped with chopped Coat the chicken chicken with
the sauce and sprinkle with parsley. parsley. AUx sAUrE AUX PouLEr SAUTÉ chayotes.
POULET with chayotes. Sautéed cNcken with Saut6ed chicken artichokes. chickm with
artichokes. fot Sautéed Sautied chicken as for CHAYOTTES cHAYorrEs - Proceed as
custard or custard quarters of chayotes or Garnish the chicken with quarters the
chicken sauce. the sauce. coat with the (q.v.) stewed and coat in butter, and
marrows (q.v.) stewed in u' CRÈME cniun slur6 À LA PouLET SAUTÉ cream. POULET
Sautéed ken with with cream. chicken Sautfed chic juices with pan juices with
Dilute the the pan blanc. Dilute d blanc. Sauté in butter à chicken in Saut6 the
chicken half. to half. Boil down down to generous cup) cream. Boil (scant t cup)
cream. pint, generous 2t 2* dl. dl. (scant I pint, with the the chicken with the
chicken Coat the (2 oz., Add g. (2 cup) butter. butter. Coat oz., t Add 50 50 g. *
cup) I or or with 1 thickened with be thickened may be sauce. The cooking juices
may The diluted diluted cookingjuices (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see VeloutC sauce
2 chicken Velouté 2 tablespoons tablespoons chicken See AU CURRIE cURRIE - See
PouLEr SAUTÉ slurf AU Sautéed curry. POULET chicken curry. Saut€ed chicken d
l'indienne. I'indienne. below chicken à SautCed chicken below Sautéed DEMIDoFF
slur6 DEMIDOFF PouLET SAUTÉ Demidofr. POULET Sautéed chicken Demidoff. Sautfed
chicken is half-cooked half-cooked it is When brun. Wh d brun. in butter butter à
Sauté en it chicken in Saut6 the the chicken vegetables chopped vegetables pur6e of
cooked chopped of cooked add t dl. pint, t cup), purée 1| dl. (t add 1 3 cup), Q
pint, à Demidoff. d la la Demidoff. I tableand 1 tabletruffies and 2 sliced add 2
sliced truffies At cooking add end of of cooking At the the end chicken the chicken
Take out out the parsley leaves. leaves' Take spoon curly parsley blanched curly
spoon blanched juices with (3 tablespoons, tablespoons' with t* dl. dl. (3 pan
juices and garnish, dilute the pan dilute the its garnish, and its pint' t3 cup)
cup) l] dl. dl. (t add It and add down and scant Boil down cup) Madeira. Madeira.
Boil scant t+ cup) Q pint, (seeSAUCE). Rich SAUCE). sauce (see Rich brown brown
sauce with coat wi vegetables, with the vegeta To th the bles, coat th chicken wi
the chicken cover the To serve, serve. coyer in batter batter dipped in onion
dipped the garnish with of onion with slices slices of and garnish sauce and the
sauce and fried. and fried. as Proceed as DURoc - - Proceed s,c,urE DUROC PouLEr
SAUTÉ Sautéed Duroc. POULET chicken Duroc. Saut6ed chicken for chasseur. Sautied
chicken chicken chasseur. for Sautéed peeledand and tomatoes peeled Garnish with 88
small small tomatoes chicken with Garnish the the chicken potatoes (5oz.)
newpotatoes g.(5 small new simmered 150g. oz') small with 150 andwith butter, and
in butter, simmered in chopped withchopped sprinklewith cooked withthe thesauce,
sauce, sprinkle Coat with in butter. butter. Coat cooked in parsley. parsley.
r'fcosPoULETSAUTÉ slurfiÀAL'ÉCOSSautéed l'6cossaise.POULET chicken à l'écossaise.
SautH chicken it. SAISE browning it. inbutter, butter, browning chickenin Saut6the
sAIsE- -Sauté thechicken (3tablespoons, juiceswith scantt tablespoons, scant Dilute
witht dl. dl.(3 panjuices the pan Dilute the (+pint, pint,tIcup) cup)thickened
thickened cup) l+dl. dl.(i andadd add1t Boildown downand cup)sherry. sherry. Boil
g. add50 50g. andadd brown moments, and fewmoments, gravy.Boil foraafew Boilfor
vealgravy. brown veal (2 i cup) (2oz., cup)butter. butter. oz.,l

l|

thickened thickened veal veal gravy gravy and and sprinkle sprinkle over over the
the dish. dish. pourrr lux chickm aux Saut6ed Sautéedchicken aux fines fines herbes
herbes I. J. POULET slurf SAUTÉ AUX brun. d in butter FrNEs FINFS HERBEs. HERBES.
Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in butter à brun. wine, Dilute Dilute the tbe
pan pan juices juices with with lf li dt. dl. 6r pint, pin t, t cup) cup) white
white wine, (+ pint, l+ dl. and add Boil down shallot. a chopped add add a chopped
shallot. Boil down and add It dl. (t pint, t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown
brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. and
tarraAdd Add * t tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped parsley,
parsley, chervil chervil and tarrajuice, gon, gon, a a squeeze squeeze of of lemon
lemon juice, and and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh butter. butter. chicken.
When to serve, When ready ready·to serve, pour pour this this sauce sauce over over
the the chicken. snurf lux II. pournr fines herbes Sautff Sautéed chicken chic ken
atx aux fines herbes II. POULET SAUTÉ AUX put on a dish. on a and put as above,
above, and chicken as FrNEs FINFS HERBEsHERBES - Saut6 Sauté the the chicken dish.
(3 tablespoons, scant t dl. (3 tablespoons, scant cooking juices Dilute + I dl.
Dilute the the cooking juices with with t and t tablespoon tablespoon shallot and a
chopped chopped shallot wine. Add cup) cup) white white wine. Add a away Draw away
and tarragon. tarragon. Draw chervil and chopped parsley, finely finely chopped
parsley, chervil a squeeze and a g. (2 butter and cup) butter oz., t 50 g. add 50
and add from Q oz., I cup) from the the heat heat and squeeze lemon. of lemon. of A
LA PoULET SAUTÉ slurf À la Oorentine. florentine. POULET chicken à la Sautded
chicken Sautéed various with various chicken with for Sautéed Sautied chicken as
for Proceed as FLoRENTINE - Proceed FLORENTINE (see RICE) Risotto (see of Risotto
in a a border border of chicken in Set the wines. Set the chicken wines. RICE) (3
tablespoons) truffies. chopped truffies. tablespoons) chopped 2 tablespoons with 2
tablespoons (3 mixed with mixed boiled down. down. well boiled been weil has been
which has with the sauce. which Coat with the sauce, Coat pourEr SAUTÉ A LA snurt À
forestiire. POULET la forestière. chicken Saut6ed chic Sautéed ken à la with
mushmushchicken with for Sautéed Sautted chicken Proceed as as for ronrsrdns -
Proceed FORESTIÈRE (5 oz.) g. (5 150 g. by 150 (see below). mushrooms by the
mushrooms Replace the below). Replace rooms (see rooms oz.) potatoes sau(5 oz.)
saug. (5 diced potatoes oz.) diced 150 g. in butter, butter, ISO saut6ed in morels
sautéed morels (4 oz.) cardoons. g. (4 small blanched blanched cardoons. oz.) small
100 g. and 100 in butter butter and t6ed in téed AUx JETS JErs slur6 AUX PouLET
SAUTÉ hop shoots. shoots POULET with hop chicken with Sautded chicken Sautéed
Dilute the the d brun. brun. Dilute in butter butter à chicken Saut6 the the chic
HouBLoN -- Sauté DE HOUBLON DE ken in and add add thickened thickened juices with
down and wine, boil boil down with white white wine, pan juices pan (11 oz.) g. (II
300 g. with 300 chicken with gravy. Garnish Garnish the the chicken veal gravy.
brown veal brown oz.) in butter. butter. cooked in hop shoots shoots cooked hop
pourE'r slur6 I. in cream shoots hop shoots in cream I. POULET SAUTÉ with hop
chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sautéed as for chicken as the chicken Prepare the
ctitvm -- Prepare A LA rl CRÈME HouBLoN À DE HOUBLON Aux JETS JETS DE AUX for in
garnish hop shoots with and cream, with chickm Sautded Sautéed chicken with cream,
and garnish with hop shoots in cream. cream. poursr s,lur6 II. POULET in cream
cream ll. shoots in hopshoots with hop chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sautéed SAUTÉ
in chicken in the chicken Cook the cntrr,rr - Cook A LA r.n CRÈME HouBLoN À DE
HOUBLON AUx JETS JETs DE AUX into flour into I tablespoon Put 1 tablespoonflour
pan. Put of the the pan. it out out of and take take it butter and butter it to
colour. tocolour. allowing it without allowing cook without and cook butter and
cooking butter the cooking the or whitestock stock or cup) white (6 tablespoons,
scant t1 cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (6 in 1 dl. Stir in Stir tablespoons
add33tablespoons andadd one-third and byone-third down by Boil down consomm6. Boil
consommé. above. asabove. (scant tt cup) Garnish as cream.Garnish cup)cream. (scant
AL'INDIENNEI'ntoIENNE slurf À PouLETSAUTÉ I.POULET I'indienne J. i l'indienne
chicken Saut6ed chic Sautéed ken à chopped largechopped Add1Ilarge oildblanc. oroil
butteror in butter chicken in Saut6 the thechicken Sauté à blanc. Add pieces asthe
thepieces powder. As Assoon soonas curry powder. tablespoon curry and1I tablespoon
onion and onion flour. tablespoon flour. over them them1I tablespoon sprinkle over
arefirm, firm,sprinkle chicken are of chicken of (| pint, pint' pour in dl.(t
in22dl. and pour stirring,and moments, stirring, foraafew fewmoments, Cookfor Cook
with garniand andcook cookwith bouquetgarni Addaabouquet whitestock. stock. Add
cup)white scant cup) scant pancovered. covered. thepan the boiledtheboiledwiththe
coatwith andcoat timbale and inaatimbale chickenin Setthe thechicken Set juice has
Serve added.Serve beenadded. hasbeen lemonjuice whichlemon towhich down sauce,
sauce, to down (seeRICE). RICE). Riceàit/'indienne I'indienne (see with Rice with
pourrr SAUTÉ L'INprENNs slur6ÀAL'INDIENNE II.POULET I'indienne II.
chickenàil'indienne Saut6ed chicken Sautéed putititinto intoa a piecesand andput
intosmall smallpieces chicken into Cutup upthe thechicken - Cut (aoz.) g'(4 diced
oz.)diced 100g. onion,100 chopped onion, largechopped which1Ilarge inwhich
casserole in casserole been alreadybeen havealready applehave gratedeating
eatingapple largegrated and1 large hamand harn bay (withoil sprigofthyme, of thyme,
Adda a lard)'Add orlard). oilor inbutter butter(with heatedin heated sprig aa bay

(±

rl
-

rl

233 233
CHICKEN CHICKEN
pinch of leaf,aapinch ofcardamom, cardamom, aapinch pinch of pinch of ofcinnamon,
cinnamon, aapinch of leaf, mace and and 22crushed garlic. Sprinkle crushed cloves
cloves of of garlic. Sprinkle in.4 in4 teaspoons teaspoons mace powder and curry
powder and mix. mix. Add Add 22peeled peeled and and seeded seeded tomatoes.
tomatoes. curry (* pint, pint,scant Pour in in44dL dl. G: 2cups) scant 2
cups)cocoout coconut milk milk and andcook cook for for Pour 40 minutes. (6
tablespoons, minutes. Add Add 1I dL dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant 1 cup) double
double + cup) 40 juice of cream and and the the juice of 1I lemon. lemon. Serve
Servewith with Rice Rice à d l'indienne I'indienne cream (see RICE). (see RICE).
Each Indian Indian cook cook has has his his own own method method of preparing of
preparing Each

flour, etc., etc., are are served. served. f1our, In France, France, Sautéed
Sautied chicken chicken à d l'indienne l'indienne is prepared is often often
prepared ln by adding adding curry powder to curry powder a chicken to a chicken
sauté saut6 à d blanc, blanc, its itssauce sauce by bound with with a a chicken
chicken Velouté Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). bound pourBr SAUTE A
L'rr,tLreNNE Sautded chicken chicken à I'italienne I. i l'italienne I. POULET
Sautéed SAUTÉ À L'ITALIENNE Saut6 the the chicken chicken in in a a mixture mixture
of of oil oil and and butter butter à d brun. brun. -- Sauté juices Dilute the
({ pint, the juices with with I} 1] dL pint,3 dl. (t cup) white white wine; reduce
wine; reduce Dilute ~ cup) (+ pint, and add pint, } add 11 l* dL dl. (i (see
SAUCE). cltp) /talian Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). J cup) and pouLET sAUrE A
r'rr.lrrrNt.re Saut6ed chicken chicken à i l'italienne I'italienne II. II. POULET
Sautéed SAUTÉ À L'IT ALIENNE Saut6 the chicken in the chicken in oil and butter.
oil and butter. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add add - Sauté I tablespoon
tablespoon onion onion which which has has been partly cooked been partly cooked in
in butter, butter, 1 I chopped chopped shallot, shallot, and and 4 4 chopped
chopped mushrooms. mushrooms. 1 juices with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) Dilute
the pan juices the pan l cup) Dilute with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, scant J white wine;
wine; boil boil down down and and add (6 tablespoons, add 1 I dL dl. (6
tablespoons, scant scant white cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock
(3 tablespoons, stock and and 1 dl. (3 * cup) tablespoons, I dL 1 scant i cup)
Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Boil Boil for for a a few few {
cup) scant moments and and add add 1 I tablespoon tablespoon lean lean chopped
chopped ham ham and and 1 I moments tablespoon parsley, parsley, tarragon tarragon
and and chervil. chervil. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken tablespoon with this
this sauce. sauce. with pourer SAUTÉ Sautded chicken chicken à ir la la japonaise.
saur6 A t.l Sautéed japonaise. POULET À LA JApoNArsE - Sauté Saut6 the chicken in
brun. When When it JAPONAISE the chicken in butter butter d à brun. it is is half-
cooked (ll oz.) add 300 g. (Il 300 g. drained half-cooked add oz.) blanched
blanched and and drained Japanese Continue cooking chicken is Japanese artichokes.
artichokes. Continue cooking until until the the chicken is ready, for Sautied
ready, then then finish finish off off as as for Sautéed chicken chicken with with
artichokes. artichokes. pouI.sr SAUTÉ A Sautded chicken ir la Sautéed chicken à la
livonienne. Iivonienne. POULET slur6 À rn LA LTvoNTENNE - Saut6 the chicken in
butter d blanc. When it is LIVONIENNE - Sauté the chicken in butter à blanc. When
it is three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked add add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.)
oz.) morels morels saut6ed sautéed in in butter. for Sautded butter. Dilute Dilute
the the pan pan juices juices and and finish finish as as for Sautéed chicken
chicken with with cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with with the the morels morels and
and coat coat with with the the sauce, sauce, to which I 1 tablespoon tablespoon
blanched blanched and and chopped chopped chives chives have have to which been
added. been added. Scatter Scatter 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) breadbreadcrumbs crumbs fried fried in in butter butter over over the
the morels. morels. poulrr SAUTÉ A Sautfu Sautéed chicken chicken I à la la
lyonnaise. lyonnaise. POULET saur6 À re LA LyoNNArsE - Saut6 the chicken in butter
d brun. When it is LYONNAISE - Sauté the chicken in butter à brun. When it is half
cooked add 2 large half cooked add 2 large chopped chopped onions onions which
which have have been been saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Finish Finish
cooking. cooking. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 2 2
tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vinegar. vinegar. Boil Boil
down, down, and and add add (+ 2 2 dl. dL pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup)
thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy gravy or or Rich Rich brown sauce
(see SAUCE). Coat the chicken with the sauce brown sauce (see SA UCE). Coat the
chicken with the sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley.
parsley. pouI.Er SAUTÉ .4, Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken ià la la Marengo.
Marengo. POULET s,turf À rl LA MARENC,o - Saut6 the chicken in oil d brun. Dilute
the pan MARENGO - Sauté the chicken in oil à brun. Dilute the pan juices with I dl.
(6 tablespoons, scant cup) white wine, boil juices with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, scant
+ 1 cup) white wine, boil down down and and add add I~ dl. dL (3 (3 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant scant * i "up) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal
gravy, gravy, li l~ dl. dL (+ (i pint, pint, J ~ atp) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce
sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and and a a crushed crushed clove cloveof ofgarlic.
garlic. Boil Boil for for a a few few minutes minutes and and strain. strain.
Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 8 8fried fried mushrooms;4
mushrooms; 4 small small fried fried (or just the yolks); eggs eggs (or just the
yolks); 4 4 crayfish crayfish trussed trussed and and cooked cooked in in court-
bouillon;4 court-bouillon; 4heart-shaped heart-shaped crottons croûtons fried fried
in in butter; butter; and and g8 slices of truffies truffies saut6ed sautéed in in
butter. butter. Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and slices of sprinkle
sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken
chicken au au matelote matelote -- See See Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken d à la
la bourguignonne. bourguignonne.

curries of mutton, lamb, lamb, chicken, of mutton, chicken, fish, fish, etc. The
basic etc. The basic curries principle, the curry seasoning, the curry seasoning,
does does not not vary, vary, but the recipes recipes but the principle, differ
from from each each other other in in requiring requiring different different
ingredients. ingredients. As As differ well as as the the traditional traditional
lodian-style Indian-style rice yellow (saffron) (saffron) rice -- yellow weil rice
-- boiled boiled cabbage cabbage mixed mixed with with mashed mashed potatoes
potatoes and and rice sprinkled with with curry, curry, thin pancakes made thin
pancakes made of of fine fine wheaten wheaten sprinkled

pouLErSAUTÉ Saut6ed chicken chicken ài la la meunière. meuniire. POULET slurE À I

LA rl Sautéed Proceed as asfor for Sautéed Sautied chicken chicken in butter,
adding inbUller, adding - Proceed juice and parsley, lemon chopped parsley, lemon
juice and 33 or or 44 tablespoons tablespoons veal veal chopped grary or (seeSA or
Rich Rich brown brown sauce. sauce. (see SAUCE). gravy UCE). pouI,Er SAUTÉ Sauteed
chic chicken Mireille. POULET sAUTf MIREILLE MTRETLLE - - Sauté Saut6 Sautéed ken
Mireille. juices with thechicken chicken in in butter butter à d brun. brun. Dilute
Dilute the pan juices the pan with 1I dL the dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant
scant 1 cup) white white wine; wine; boil boil down down and andstir (6 stir * cup)
(| pint, in 11 l] dl. pint, -13cup) dl.(i cup) thickened thickened brown gravy and
veal gravy brown veal and 1 in dl. I dl. (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant (see
SAUCE). scant i* cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). (3 Boil for for
aa few few moments. moments. Boil Garnish the (gourilos) in the chicken chicken
with with 8 8 endive endive hearts hearts (gourilos) in Garnish cream and and 8 8
small small tomatoes, peeled, drained tomatoes, peeled, drained and and cooked in
cooked in cream butter. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with the the sauce.
sauce. butter. pouLET SAUTÉ Saut6ed chicken chicken Monselet. Monselet. POULET
SAUTE MONSELET MoNSELET -- Sauté Sautéed Saut6 the chicken chicken in in butter
butterd Drzn. When When it it is is three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked,
the à brun. add 2 2 artichoke artichoke bottoms, bottoms, blanched blanched and and
cut cut in in slices, and, slices, and, add when completely completely cooked,
cooked, 2 2 medium-sized medium-sized sliced sliced truffies. truffies. when Take
out out the chicken and the chicken and its its accompaniments, accompaniments,
dilute dilute the pan the pan Take juices with (6 tablespoons, with 1 I dL dl. (6
tablespoons, scant scant J cup) white white wine wine and and juices + cup)
({ pint, boil down. down. Add Add 11 l+ dl. pint,3 dl. (i cup) thickened thickened
brown brown veal veal boil -1 cup) gravy, and and boil boil for for a a few few
moments. moments. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with gravy, the
artichokes artichokes and and truffies truffies and and coat with the coat with the
sauce. sauce. the pouLET Saut6ed chicken chicken with with morels morels and and
other other mushrooms. POULET Sautéed slurf AUX AUx MORILLES MoRrLLrs -- Proceed
Proceed as as for for Sautéed Saut1ed chicken SAUTÉ chicken with with (see below),
mushrooms (see below), replacing replacing the g. latter with the latter with 300
300 g. mushrooms (11 oz.) (or an oz.) morels morels (or an equivalent equivalent
quantity of other other mush(II mushrooms). rooms).
ltsuNriREMEUNIÈRE

Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with mushrooms mushrooms

Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with mushrooms. mushrooms. pouI-nr POULET
s.tur6 SAUTÉ

ct

cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter d
à brun. brun. When When three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked add add 250 250
g. g. (9 (9 oz) oz.) sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. Dilute Dilute the the pan
pan juices juices with with ] 1dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant
+ t cup) cup) Madeira, Madeira, boil boil down down and and add add l+ 11 dl. dl.
(+ (i pint, pint, J -t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy.
gravy. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. Garnish Garnish the the
chicken chicken with with the the mushrooms mushrooms and and coat coat with with
the the sauce. sauce. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken nigoise. niçoise. pouLET
POULET snurf SAUTÉ NrgorsE NIÇOISE - Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in oil
oil d à brun. brun. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl.
dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * 1 cup) cup) white white wine,
wine, add add a a crushed crushed garlic garlic clove, down and and add add l+ 11
dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, $ -1 cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce clove, boil boil
down
(see (see SAUCE.) SAUCE.)

lux AUX

Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 8 8 artichoke artichoke quarters
quarters cooked cooked in in butter, butter, 4 4 braised braised baby baby marrows
marrows (zucchini), (zucchini), l2S 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) small small new new
potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and 12 12 stoned stoned
black black olives. olives. Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and
sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Sautffi
Sautéedchicken chickenwith withoysters oystersI. I.pouLETsAUrE POULET SAUTÉaux
AUXHuirnnsHUÎTRESSaut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter d à blanc.
blanc. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 1 1 dl. dl. (6 (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant + 1cup) cup) white white wint wine and and
the the
234 234
CHICKEN CHICKEN
liquor liquor from from 12 12 poached poached oysters. oysters. Boil Boil down down
and and add add I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) cup)
chicken chicken Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil Boil for
for a a few few moments. moments. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., { } cup) cup)
cooked, cooked, 2 2chopped chopped medium-sized medium-sized truffies. truffles.
Remove Remove the the chicken chicken and and garnishes garnishes and and dilute
dilute the the pan pan juices (3 scant with] dl. tablespoons, juices witht dl. (3
tahles-poons, seantf, cup) eup)sherry. sherry.Boil Boildown down gravy. veal (+ and
and add add l+ li dl. dl. (a pint, pint, J ! cup) cup) thickened thiekened brown
brown veal gravy. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over the the chicken. chicken.
Saut6ed Sautéedchicken chickel'liàla laromaine. romaÎlle.PoULET POULETsAUTE SAUTÉA
ÀLA LARoMAINE ROMAll'<'Ejuices Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chic ken in in oil, oil,
browning hrowning it. il. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with with I! dl. dl.
(6 (6 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant seant ]1: cup) cup) Asti Asti wine. wine.
Boil Boil down down and and pour pour in in I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant * t cup) cup) tomato tomato sauce sauce and i cup) and ]t
dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant seant} eup) thickened thickencd brown
hrown veal veal gravy. gravy. leaf simmered of spinach, layer Put Put the the
chicken chicken on on a a layer of leaf spinach, simmered in in butter buller and
and mixed mixed with with 2 2 diced diced anchovy anchovy fillets. fil lets. Coat
Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chickel'l Stanley.
Stanley. PouLEr POULET seur6 SAUTÉ sTANLEY STANLEY - Saut6 Sauté the the chicken
chicken in in butter butter d à blanc. blanc. When When it it is is half-cooked
half-cooked add add 2 2 garnishwith finely findy chopped chopped onions. on ions.
Remove Remove the the chicken chicken and and garnish with mushrooms mushrooms
cooked cooked in in butter. hutter. pint, seant Add Add to to the the onions on
ions and and cooking cooking juices Juices 2 2 dl. dl. (+ (~ pint, scant cup) cup)
cream. cream. Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes minutes and and sieve. sieve. Reduce
Reduce the the onion onion pur6e purée by by a a quarter, quarter, season season
with with a a pinch pinch of of curry curry powder powder and and cayenne, cayenne,
and and add add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., I ±cup) cup) butter. butter. Coat Coat
the the chicken chickcn with with sauce; sauce; put put 8 8 slices slices of of
truffie trume on on top. top. A L'EsrnAGoN slurn PoULET with tarragon chicken
Saut6ed Sautéed cbkkeu with larragon. POULET SAUTÉ À L'ESTRAGON but herbes.I -
Prepared Prepared as as for for Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken aux aux fines fines
herbes 1 but the the shallot, shallot, parsley parsley and and chervil chervil are
are replaced replaced by by an an equivalent equivalent quantity quantity of of
chopped choppe<l tarragon. tarragon. Decorate Decorate the the chicken chicken with
with blanched blanched tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. AUx TRUFFES s,lurE PouLEr
Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with truffies. ImIDes. POULET SAUTÉ AUX
TRUFFES placn 12 Saut6 the Sauté the chicken cbicken in in butter butter it à brun.
hrun. When When cooked, cooked, place 12 Take slices of slices of raw raw truffie
truffle on on it. it. Cover Coyer and and cook cook for for 5 5 minutes. minutes.
Take juices and finish and truffies. out out the the chicken chicken and truffles.
Dilute Dilute the the pan pan jl1..ices and finish as for Sautded Sautéed chicken
chicken with with mushrooms. mushrooms. as for add If the Fresh or or preserved
Fresh preserved truffies trumes may may be be used' used. If the latter, latter,
add sauce. down juices their their boiled boiled down juices to to the the sauce.
s.lur6 A re vtsNA la chicken il Saut6ed chicken Sauléed la viennoise. vielllloise.
PouLE'r POULI;T SAUTÉ À LA VIENwithbut withchickm Archduke, for Sauléed Sautded
chicken as for NoISE Proceed as NOlSE Archduke, but - Proceed cucumbers. buttered
cucumbers. cooked, buttered with cooked, Garnish with onion. Garnish out the the
onion. out lux slurE AUX PouLET SAUTf: wines. POULET various wÎlles. with various
chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sautée<! Dilute the the d brun. brun. Dilute in butter
butter à chicken ID the chicken Saut6 the vll.Is DIVERS DIvERs - Sauté VINS gravy,
and and veal gravy, juices with brown veal add thickened thickened brown pan juices
wine, add with wine, pan way. in the ordinary way. the ordinary finish in finish
name of of the name by the designated by preparations are are designated Note.
These These preparations Nole. Frontignan, Pouilly, Frontignan, Graves, Pouilly,
Chablis, Graves, wine used: used: Chablis, the wine the etc' Champagne, etc. Port,
Sherry, Sherry, Champagne, Madeira, Port, Sauternes, Madeira, Sauternes, Ia
bourguigcalled li it la always called is always red wine wine is with red chicken !
Vith Sautied chicken Sautéed bourguignonne. nonne. poursr SAUTÉ AU VIN vIN sAUTE AU
wine. POULET white wine. with white chicken wilh Saut6ed chicken Sautéed juices the
juices Dilute the h brun. brun. Dilute in butter butter à chicken in the chicken
BLANc -- Sauté Saut6 the BLANC down, wine, boil boil down, white wine, cup) white
(6 tablespoons, scantI tablespoons, seant I dl. with 1 dl. (6 with 1 cup) gravy.
veal gravy. brown veaJ pint, t cup) thickened thickened brown pour in l] dl. dl. (a
in li and pour 3 cup) $ pint, and (2 oz., g' (2 cup) oz., { cup) with 50 50 g. and
finish finish with moments and few moments Boil for for aa few Boil sauce. with the
the sauce. chicken with the chicken Coat the butter. Coat butter. l LA u
ZINGARAzrxcml slurf À PouLET SAUTÉ I la la zingara. zingara. POULET chicken à
Saut6ed chicken Sautéed brun' it in rn oil oi à d brun. paprik4 and and sauté saut6
it with paprika., chicken with the chicken Season the Season garnish zingara
garnish cup) zingara 4 tablespoons tablespoons (t add 4 it is iscooked, cooked, add
When il G cup) When (q.v.). (q.v.). cooking garnish. Dilute the cookillg Dilute the
its garnish. and its chicken and Take out the chicken out the Take boil Madeira,
boil cup) Madeira, juices with (3 tablespoons, scant ± tablespoons, seant with 1
dl. (3 f cup) I dl. juices (see sauce (see brown sauce pint, t3 cup) Rich brown
cup) Rich l] dl. dl. (t add li and add down and Q pint, down with tomalo. tomato.
flavoured wÎth SAUCE), flavourcd SAUCE), garnish arrallged 4 on 4 arranged on
zingara garnis!! with zingara chicken with Garnish the the chicken Gamish in butter
butter ham tossed tossed in of ham slice of with aathin thin slice of toast toast
with slices of small slices smaU with and sprinkle sprinkle with sauce alld with
the the sauce Coat with one.Coat eachone. added to to each added in also be
beserved served in may also ham may of ham parsley. The Theslices slices of chopped
parsley. chopped pastry tartlet shells. tartletshells. thin pastry trun HORS-
D'(EUVRE, See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, shells -- See in scallop scallop sheUs Chicken in
Chicken poultry. of poultry. shellsof Scallop shell.ï Scallop

butter and and a a squeeze squeeze of oflemon lemon juice. juice. Strain. Strain.
butter Garnish Garnish with with the the drained drained oysters oysters and and
coat coat with witb the Ihe sauce. sauce. Sautéed chicken chicken with with oysters
ovsters II. II. pourer POULET saur6 SAUTÉ aux AUX Saut6ed nuirnss HUÎTRES - Saut6
Sauté the the chicken chick~n in in butter butter h à blanc blanc and and when when
half-cooked half-cooked add add I1tablespoon tablespoon blanched hlanched chopped
chopped onion. onion. Take Take out oui the the chicken; chic ken ; add add to to
the the pan pan juices juices I1tablespoon tahlespoon flour, flour, the Ihe liquor
Iiquor from from 12 12 poached poached oysters oysters and and I1dl. dl. (6 (6
tabletablespoons, spoons, scant seant It cup) cup) mushroom mushroom or or white
white stock. stock. Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Add Add 2 2
tablespoons tahlespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream cream and and 25 25
g. g. (l (l o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Strain Strain
and and finish finish as as above. above. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken
panetiCre. panetière. PouLE'r POULET slur6 SA UTÉ plNruinr PANETIimE Prepare as as
for for sautied sautéed chicken chicken with with oeam. cream. Place Place on on a
a round round Prepare of bread, trimmed, ofbread, trimmed, drid dried in in the the
oven oyen and and spread spread with with pur6e purée of of foie gras. gras. foie
Garnish Garnish with with morels morels (or (or other other mushrooms) mushrooms)
in in cream. cream. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. SautH Sautéed chicken
chicken with with paprika. paprika. PouLEr POULET slurf SAUTÉ AU AU PAPRIKA PAPRIKA
Season Season the the chicken chicken with with paprika. paprika. Saut6 Sauté in in
butter butter d à blanc blanc and finish finish as as for for Sautied Sautéed
chicken chicken with wilh cremn. cream. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chickell i à la la
parisienne. parisienne. PoULET POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À u LA fot Sautied PARISIENNE
PARISlENNEProceed as for Sautéed chickm chicken with white white wine >vine -
Proceed (see (see below). below). Put the the chicken on a a layer of of Duchess
potato patata mixture mixture (see (sec POTATOES) POT A TOES) brushed brushed with
egg and browned in in oyen. Garnish with buttered asparagus asparagus tips. tips.
Coat with with the oven. sauce. the sauce. slurn PARMENTIER Saut6ed chicken Sautéed
chickcn Parmentier. PouLEr POULET SAUTÉ PARMENTIER Saut6 the chicken in butter.
When Saulé When two-thirds cooked, add dice and 4 blanched potatoes, cut 4 eut in
in large dice and half-cooked half-cooked in in butter. Finish as for Sautéed
Sautied chicken with witn white wine (see (see below). sprinkle Garnish wittr with
the potatoes, coat with the the sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley. chopped
parsley. pfnlu. PÉRIslur6 A P6rigord. pourE'r I la la Périgord. chicken il Saut6ed
chicken Sautéed POULET SAUTÉ À LA The tqffies. truffies with chicken coRD Se
Sautied GORD Sec Sautéed cl!icken witl! tru/fies. Tbe truffles may be small olives.
cut to look like small eut pourpr SAUTÉ PErIT-DUc - Sauté Saut6 petit-duc. POULET
s.lurf PETIT-DUC-chicken petit-duc. Sautéed SautEed chickcn j dl. juices with pan
juices with t dl. the pan in butter à d brun. brun. Dilute the the chicken chicken
in the and add down and (3 tablespoons, boil down Madeira, boil cup) Madeira, scant
* cup) (3 tablespoons, seant (see SAUCE). Boil for for SAUCE). Boil (+ pint, ~
sauce (sec Ricft brown sauce l+ dl. cup) Rich dl. (! li I cup) a a few few moments.
moments. saut6ed slices sautéed morels and and trume truffie slices with morels
chicken with Garnish the the chicken Garnish with the the sauce. sauce. in in
butter. Coat Coat with A LA rn pi6montaise. POULET saure À PouLE'r SAUTÉ la
piémontaise. chicken à i la Sautécd Sautded chicken pduovrxsn -- Proceed white !
Vine wine with white chicken as for for Sautéed Sautied ch Proceed as PIÉMONTAISE
ick en wilh mixed wi with of risotto mixed (see below). in a a border border of
chicken in Put the the chicken (sec th below). Put truffie white truffle garnish
with of white with slices slices of and garnish white trumes, truffies, and diced
diced white it. over il. Pour the the sauce sauce over in butter. lightly beated
heated in butter. Pour lightly pourrr SAUTÉ A LA u slun6 À portugaise. POULET la
portugaise. i la chicken à Sautéed Saut6ed chicken poRruGAIsE - Sauté in oil. When
two-thirds two-thirds oil. When chicken Saut6 the the chic PORTUGAISE ken in out
the the Take out onion. Take chopped onion. I tablespoon cooked, add add 1
tablespoon chopped cooked, and a a clove clove pipped tomatoes peeled and and
pipped tomatoes and put 4 4 peeled and put chicken, chic ken, and (6 tablespoons,
pan. Season, I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, add 1 garlic in Season, add in the the pan.
of crushed crushed garlic of half. Add Add 3 3 tabletabledown by by half. wine and
and boil boil down white wine cup) white seant scant tI cup) gravy. Coat the Coat
the (scant tt cup) veal gravy. brown veal cup) thickened thickened broWll spoons
spoons (seant parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped and sprinkle sprinkle with
with the sauce and chicken with the sauce chicken poulsr SAUTÉ A LA rl slur6 À
provengale. POULET la provençale. chicken ili la SlIUtéed Sautied chickel'l
pRovENqALE - Procecd portuh la la portuchicken à for Sautéed Sautied chicken as for
Proceed as PROVENÇALE gaise. gaise. and 88 olives and blanched olives with 20
20stoned, stoned, blanched chicken with Garnish the the chicken Garnish sauce' with
the the sauce. Coat with in oil. oil. Coat mushrooms sautéed saut6ed in small small
mushrooms chopped withchopped andsprinkle sprinkle with filletsand anchovy flllets
Decorate with with 88anchovy Decorate parsley. parsley. Saut6 the the RIvoLI - -
Sauté PouLErSAUTÉ slurf RIVOLI Rivoli. POULET chickenRivoli. Sautéed Sautded
chickell add44 cookedadd When thrce-quarters three-quarters cooked inbutter dbmn.
brun. When chickenin butter à chicken when completely completely and when in
butter, potatoessautéed butter, and saut6ed in sliced sliced potatoes

235 235
CHICKEN CHICKEN
Chlcken soufflé. souffid.SOUFFLÉ sourrri DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE-- Using UsW raw
rawchicken, chicken. Ch.icken Add 5 (2+ lb.) 5 stiffly stifry whisked whisked egg
egg whites whites to I kg, kg. (2* to 1 lb.) Chicken Chicken Add (see FORCEMEAT),
mousseliwforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Put Put in inaa buttered buttered
mousselineforcemeat gently in souffi6 dish dish and and cook cook gently in the the
oven for 35 35 to 40 minutes, oven for to 40 minutes. soufflé Using cooked cooked
chicken. g. (generous (generous 1 chicken. Pound Pound 500 500 g. I lb,) lb.) Using
cooked chicken chicken meat meat adding (scant l1} cup) adding 6 6 tablespoons
tablespoons (seant cup) cooked (see SAUCE). cold thick co BCchamel sauce sauce (see
SAUCE). Season Season and and rub rub thick Id Béchamel pur6e, without through a a
sieve. sieve. Heat Heat this this purée, without allowing allowing itto it to boil.
boil. through (2 oz" g. (2 Add 50 50 g. yolks and oz.,l cup) cup) butter, butter, 5
5 egg egg yolks and 6 6 stiffly stifry Add whisked egg egg whites, whites. Put in a
Put in a buttered buttered soufflé souffi6 dish dish and and cook cook whisked
gently in in the the oven, oven. gently of ch.icken chicken soup. Cream of soup.
CRÈME cniw DE DE VOLAILLE voLArLrJ -- Soup Soup made made Crerun with chicken
chicken cooked cooked in in a a veal pounded to veal or or chicken chicken stock,
stock, pounded to with pur6e and a purée and finished finished with (See with
velouté veloutd sauce sauce and and, cream. cream. (See a souPs AND AND BROTHS,)
BROTHS.) SOUPS poT,JLARDE souvmov- Stuffthe chicken Cticken Souvorov. Souyaro%
POULARDE Ch.icken SOUVAROV - Stuff t he chicken gras and with chopped chopped foie
and truffles, truffies, seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and foie gras
with spices and and a a few few drops drops of liqueur brandy. of liqueur brandy.
spices Put the the chicken chicken in in a pan with a covered covered pan with some
some butter butter and and Put cook until until three-quarters three-quarters done,
done. Transfer Transfer the chicken to the chicken to a a cook casserole and and
add add 8 8 medium-sized medium-sized truffles trufres which which have have been
been casserole seasoned and and simmered in butter simmered in butter for for 5 5
minutes, minutes. seasoned juices diluted Moisten the the chicken chicken with with
the the cooking cooking juices with diluted with Moisten Madeira, boiled boiled
down and mixed mixed with (see down and with Rich Rich brown sauce (see brown sauce
Madeira, juices. Co SAUCE) made made with with the the truffle trufre juices,
Cover, and seal seal the lid the lid SAUCE) ver, and paste. with f1our-and-water
flour-and-water pas Finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen oven for for with te.
Finish 20 to 25 minutes, minutes. to 25 20 poussrN Spring chicken. chicken POUSSIN
This term can he term can be used used 10 to - This Spring describe a a newly newly
hatched hatched chicken, chicken, but but the the flesh flesh of of such such a a
descrihe young bird is so so soft soft and and insipid insipid that it is is
scarcely that it scarcely edible, edible. ln In young bird is culinary terminology
terminology the the word word poussin usually means means a a cuJinary poussin
usually young chicken which is chicken which is sufficiently sufficiently well
formed for its f1esh flesh young weil formed for ilS to all the and flavour. to
have have ail the necessary necessary firmness firmness and flavour. The nameis
alsogiven to a avery small chicken, chicken, ofwhich of which the The name is also
given to very small the best chicken. These These have delicate flesh and best type
type is is Hamburg Hamburg chicken, have delicate f1esh and can be any of small
roasting can he prepared prepared in in any of the the ways ways given given for
for small roasting chickens. chickens, poussrN (cold). Spriry chicken FROID -
Prepared Prepared in in any any of of Spring cblcken (cold). POUSSIN FRorD the
dishes. The The chicken chicken the ways ways given given for for cold co Id
chicken chicken or or pigeon pigeon dishes. is withfoie gras and diced is stuffed
stuffed with with forcemeat forcemeat or or withfoie gras and diced truffies.
truffles, For For some some dishes dishes the the chickens chickens are are boned.
boned, poussrN Spnry chicken EN coMporE COMPOTE - Stuffed Stuffed Spring cbicken en
en compote. compote. POUSSIN EN with fine forcemeat forcemeat (made (made with with
the the chicken chicken liver). liver), with a a fine Prepared asfor Compote of
ofpigeon pigeon (see (see PIGEON). PIGEON), Prepared as for Compote poussrN Sprfug
Spring chicken chlcken (fried). (fried). POUSSIN FRrr FRIT - Cut Cut the the
chicken chicken into into pieces of equal size and marinate pieces of equal size
and marinate in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice juice and and salt salt and in
flour, flour, coat coat with with egg egg and and breadbreadand pepper. pepper.
Roll Roll the the pieces pieces in crumbs crumbs and and fry fry in in deep deep
fat. fat. Garnish Gamish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and lemon Jemon
quarters. q uarters. poussrN cnln6 A u Spring grilled chicken i la diable. Spring
chlcken grilled à la diable. POUSSIN GRILLÉ À LA DIABLE - Prepared asfor Grilled
chickm d la diable. DIABLE - Prepared as for Grilled chicken à la diable, Spring
Spring chickcn ch.icken in in marinade marinade (fried). (fried). poussrN POUSSIN
EN EN MARTNADE MARINADE (rntr) (FRIT) - Cut Cut the the chicken chicken in in
quarters quarters and and take take out out the the small small juice, bones.
Marinate in oil, lemon salt, pepper, pepper, and and bones. Marinate in oil, lemon
juice, salt, chopped chopped herbs. herbs, Dip Dip the the pieces pieces in in a a
light light batter batter and and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. Drain, TomalO
Drain, and and garnish gamish with with fried fried parsley. parsley, Serve Serve
with with Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). This This dish dish is is
often often incorrectly incorrectly served served under under the the name name of
of fritot frllOt of of chicken; chicken; butfritot but frllOt denotes denotes
previously previously cooked cooked subsu bstances. stances. pETrrs pols -
preSpring Spring chicken chicken with with peas. peas. poussrN POUSSIN Ar.x AUX
PETITS POIS Prepared pared as as for for Pigeon Pigeon with with peas peas (see
(see PIGEON). PIGEON). poussrN pdrraoxr,lrsB Sprfug Spring chicken chicken iil la
la pidmontaise. piémontaise. POUSSIN A À r.l LA PIÉMONT AISE --- Fill Fill the the
chicken chicken with with fine fine forcemeat, forcemeat, the the chopped chopped
liver liver and and a a little little onion onion lightly lightly cooked cooked in
in butter. butter, Truss Truss as as for for boiling. boiling, Cook in butter, Cook
in butter, browning browning it it all ail over. over. Drain, Drain, and and remove
rem ove th1 the trussing trussing strings. strings. Surround Surround the the
chicken chicken with with a a risotto. risotto, Dilute Dilute
the juices with with white white wine, wine, thickened gravy and veal gravy
thickened brown brown veal and aa thejuices little tomato pur6e. Boil pour over
tomato purée. Boil down down together and pour together and over the the little
chicken. chicken, poussrN À por,oN,l,rsr poloneise. POUSSIN Spring chicken chicken
àI la la polonaise. A LA u POLONAISE Sprlng gratinforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT)
Stuffa chicken with with à ri gratinforcemeal FORCEMEAT) Stuff a chicken mixed with
with soaked soaked bread, bread, butter butter and parsley. and chopped chopped
parsley. mixed Cook in in a a casserole, Finish as casserole. Finish polonaise. as
for for Chicken Chicken à d la la polonaise, Cook poussrN RÔTI Roasted spring
sprlng ch.icken. chickeh. POUSSIN garni, ROTr -- Put Puta bouquet garni, Roasted a
bouquel I tablespoon tablespoon butter butter and and the the chopped chopped
liver, liver, weil seasoned with with well seasoned 1 pepper and salt and grated
nutmeg, and pepper and grated nutmeg, inside inside the Truss, the chicken,
chicken. Truss, salt bard with put on with bacon bacon fat fat and and put good on
the the spil. spit. Cook Cook on a good on a bard heat, basting basting frequently.
frequently. heat, Arrange on long dish dish and and garnish garnish with on a a
long with cress, cress. Hand Hand the Arrange the juices separately, separately.
juices Spring ch.icken chicken li (Prosper Salles' la sicilienne I la sicilienne
(Prosper Salles' recipe). recipe). Spring poussrN A LA r,e SICILIENNE (q.v.) in
srcu,rsNNE -- Cook Cook some lasagne (q,v,) some lasagne in salt salt POUSSIN À
water. Drain Drain and and reheat reheat for for a a few few moments moments in in
hot hot butter. water. pur6e of with a a purée nuts. Season of pistachio nuIS.
Season weil well and and allow allow to Bind with to cool. Stuff Stuffthe chicken
with this this mixture and and trus5 truss as as for for spit spit cool. the
chicken roasting. Cook good heat, Cook at at a a good heat, basting frequently.
When basting frequently, roasting, When thiee-quarters cooked sprinkle sprinkle
with grated breadwith freshly freshly grated breadthree-q uarters cooked crumbs and
and let let it it col colour. the juices separately, separately. crurnbs OU!', Hand
thejuices poussrN À Spring chlcken chicken li I la la tartare. tartare. POUSSIN
rmrlnr -- Split A LA r,a TARTARE Split Spring the chicken chicken down the the
back, back, season, season, brush over over with melted melted the and sprinkle
with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs. Grill on a a gentle heat. butter and (see SAUCE),
Serve with with Tartare sauce (see SAUCE). Serve poussrN À Spring ch.icken chicken
li la viennoise. POUSSIN I la A LA L,q, VIENNOISE vleNxorsE -Spring Divide the
quarters. Season, the chicken chicken into into quarters, Season, sprinkle sprinkle
with Divide flour, and coat with egg and breadcrumbs. Brown them well fioul', (or
lard), or fry in deep fat. both sides sides in clarified butter (or on both with
fried parsley quarters. Garnish with parsley and lemon quarters, Chicken Stanley.
POULARDE IoULARDE STANLEY srANLEy Chicken - Poach the chicken in 4large chopped
onions have been in a white stock to which 4 large chopped added. Put the chicken
on a dish and surround with 20 20large added. large mushrooms and 8 tartlets filled
with chopped chopped truflles, truffies. Finish u for SautCed chickm Stanley,
Stanley. Sautüd chicken Finish as Sttrd chicken Sl:Uffed ch.icken i il
I'ariegeoise. l'ariégeoise. pouLET POULET r,mcl FARCI A À L'ARrfL'ARlÉcEoIsE Stuff
the chicken with forcemeat made as follows: GEOISE - Stuff oz.) crustless squeeze
and put in soak 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 OL) crustless bread in milk, squeeze a basin.
100 g. (4 (4 oz.) oz,) chopped raw ham, the chopped basin, Add Add 100 chicken
liver gpzzard,2 liver and and gizzard, 2 finely chopped cloves of of garlic garlic
and 2 and 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped onion cooked lightly lightly in
in fat. Bind Bind with an egg egg and the the blood blood of of the chicken.
chicken, Season Season with with salt, pepper pepper and grated nutmeg. nutmeg, Add
I 1 tablespoon spoon chopped parsley. parsley, Truss the Cook in a a pot-au-fat
pot-au-feu with with the chicken as as for for boiling. boiling, Cook a piece piece
of of beef beef and and a piece piece of of chined salt salt pork pork (pork back).
back), Take Take the the trussing trussing strings offthe off the cooked chicken
chicken and and garnish garrush with of stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, potatoes
potatoes sliced sliced and cooked cooked in in with balls balls of the pot-au-feu
broth, broth, and and the the boned boned and and sliced sliced pork. pork, the
pot-au-fan Serve with TomalO sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) seasoned seasoned
with with with Tomato garlic. garlic, The The pot-au-fat pOl-au:feu broth broth is
is served served as as a a soup, soup, with with rice rice or or vermicelli.
vermicelli, Strffed il la la mode mode de de Sorges Sorges @6rigord (périgord
cookery). cookery). Sluffed chicken chickell i pouLET POULET rlncl FARCI A À LA LA
MoDE MODE DE DE soRGEs SORGF~~ - Stuff Stuff the the chicken chic ken with with
forcemeat ofchopped chopped chicken chicken liver, liver, stale stale breadcrumbs,
breadcrumbs, forcemeat made made of chopped chopped bacon, bacon, chopped chopped
parsley, parsley, chopped chopped spring spring onions, onions, chopped chopped
garlic, garlic, all ail well weil seasoned seasoned with with chopped shallot
shallot and and chopped salt, pepper and and grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and
bound bound with with the the blood blood of of salt, pepper the the chicken
chicken and and eggyolks. eggyolks, Brown Brown the the chicken chicken all ail
over over in in goose goose fat. fat. Put Put itinamarmite it in a marmite and and
cover cover with with boiling boiling water. water. Season Season with with salt
salt and and pepper. pepper. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil and and skim.
skim, Add Add 3 3 carrots, carrots, 2 2 turnips, tumips, the the white 3leeks,
I1celery of3leeks, celery heart, heart, I\ large large onion anion stuck stuck with
with white parts parts of I1clove, clove, and and beet beet stalks stalks tied tied
in in a a bunch. bunch, Cook Cook very very slowly slowly for for I1hour. hour.
Drain Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove rernove the the trussing trussing
strings, strings, and and garnish gamish with with the the sliced sliced carrots
carrots and and turnips. tumips.

236 236
CHICKEN CHICKEN
Serve with with Sorges Sorges sauce, sauce, which which is is a a highly highly
seasoned seasoned Serve [vinaigrette sauce sauce with with chopped chopped parsley,
parsley, spring spring onions onions and and vinaigrette ,shallotsadded,
added,bound boundwith with22egg eggyolks yolkscooked cooked for for 33minutes
minutes shallots these eggs, inboiling boil ingwater. wa ter.Finish Finishwith
withthe thewhites whi tesof ofthese eggs,recooked recooked in thechicken
chickenbroth broth and and cut cutin indice. dice. in l in the Suprêmes of
ofchicken cbicken. suPRtMEs SUP~MES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE - The The breast breast
Supr0mcs and wings wings of of poultry, poultry, removed removed when when raw.
raw. Also Aiso known known as as and côtelettes orfilets, or filets, and and served
served as as small small entCes. entrées. c\telettei When suprAmes suprêmes of
ofpoulardes poulardes or or fat fat hens hens are are used, used, they they are are
When divided into into2 2or or33slices, slices, flattened, flattened, trimmed
trimmed into into oval oval shapes, shapes, divided 1 and cooked cooked like Iike
chicken chicken c6telettes. côtelettes . and Suprêmes of of chicken chicken
ambassadrice. ambassadrice. supntuns SUPR~MES DE DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE SuprGmes
AMBASSADRICE - Saut6 Sauté in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with chicken
chicken livers livers AMBAssADRIcB sautéed in in butter, butter, cocks' cocks'
combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, and and truffies truffles cutcut saut6ed into
the the shape shape of of olives. olives. Dilute Oilute the the pan pan juices
juices with with Madeira Madeira' into and thickened thickened brown brown veal
veal gravy. gravy. Pour Pour over over the the dish. dish. and Place on on top top
of of the* these suprdmes suprêmes the the filets filets mignons mignons' (pieces
(pieces Place which lie lie against against the the breast breast bone), bone),
studded with trufles. truffles. which Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Cam6rani.
Camérani. supn8uns SUP~MES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE Supr6mes CAMÉRANI - Coat Coat
the suprAmes suprêmes with with a mixture of egg and crufnlm breadcrumbs and and
chopped truffies. truffles. Saut6 Sauté in butter. butter. breadcrumbs juices,
Place on on a a bed bed of ofnoodles. Makea saucewith panjuices, with the pan a
sauce noodles. Make Place 1 gravy, to ! mixed mixed with with Madeira Madeira and
and thickened brown veal veal gravy, which has has been been added added 1
tablespoon ta blespoon iulienne julienne (q.v.) (q. v.) of celery which truffles,
cooked in butter butter until tender. and truffies, DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Suprêmes
of of chicken chicken Car0me. Carême. supnf;runs SUPRÊMES DE Supr0mes CA~ME - Slit
open fil 1 with a a thick mushand fill suprAmes and opur the suprêmes cAnEus and
purée, to which a fine fine julienne julienne (q'v.) (q.v.) of cocks' combs and
ofcocks' room pur6e, truffles has has been been added. Sauté Saut6 in butter.
truffies Place on in butter. fried in butter' Garnish with bread fried cro0tons of
bread on croûtons Place Chicken iltto olive olive cut into truffies cut quenelles
(see QUENELLES), Chicken quenelles QUENELLES), truffles veal shapes, thickened
brown veal use thickened sauce use shapes, and mushrooms. For sauce mignons, gravy
the filets Put the and butter. butter. Put gravy with with tomato tomato and filets
mignons, studded supr0mes. of the suprêmes. pickled tongue, on top top of tongue,
on with pickled studded with Suprêmes voLAILLE DE VOLAILLE swnElrars DE I la la
florentine. florentine. SUP~MES chicken à of chicken Supr6mes of À until chicken
stock stock until or chicken in veal veal or Poach in A LA FLoRENTINE - Poach
r,c, .FLORENTINE three-quarterscooked. SAUCE) Mornay sauce(see SAUCE) with
Mornaysauce(see Coat with three-quarters cooked. Coat to with Sprinkle with added.
Sprinkle has been been added. essence has chicken essence which chicken to which
grated quickly. brown quickly. and brown grated Parmesan Parmesan and Suprêmes
voLAILLE DE VOLAILLE supnBMes DE Gabrielle. SUPR~MES chicken GabrieUe. of chicken
Supr6nes of GABRIELLE the detaching the without detaching suprAmes, without the
suprêmes, Remove the cABRIELLE - Remove (q-v.) filets mignons. .v.) mirepoix (q of
mirepoix layer of thin layer with aa thin Cover with filets mignons. Coyer cooked
breadand breadwith egg egg and Coat with tender. Coat until tender. in butter
butter until cooked in crumbs. in butter. butter. Saut6 in crumbs. Sauté Suprêmes
voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE supnf;uns DE t l'impériale. I'imsriale. SUPRÊMES chicken à of
chicken Supr6mes of À of with semi-circles semi-circles of supr4me.l with the
suprêmes Studthe A L'IMPÉRIALE r'itpfruaLp - Stud [ruffles stock. white stock. in
white Cook in pickled tongue. tongue. Cook and pickled truffies and Fill lacrème
crlme pur6e of of truffles trufres àdla with aa purée barquettes with Fill cooked
cooked barquettes and sauce SuprAmesauce with Suprême lightly with Coat lightly
supr1mes. Coat put in in the the suprêmes. and put (see mignons, studded with
truffies, on trufres, on (see SAUCE). thef/etsmignons,studdedwith Putthefilets
SAUCE). Put top of the thesuprêmes. supr€me* top of Suprêmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE
supnBursDE marquise. SUP~MES chickenmarquise. ofchicken Supr€mesof MARQUISE puff
ofpuff bouchiesof tvtthbouchées Garnishwith inbutter. butter.Garnish Saut6 in
MARQUIsE - - Sauté pastry and kidneysand combs, kidneys cocks'combs, ofcocks'
salpiconof pastry filled with aasalpicon flled with truffles juices with withcream,
cream' panjuices thepan Dilute the cream. Oilute withcream. boundwith iruffies
bound to (3tabletabletablespoons(3 and22tablespoons butterand added butter hasbeen
beenadded whichhas towhich spoons) put andput sauceand thissauce withthis suprAmes
with thesuprêmes Coat the truffies. Coat spoons)truffles. filets mignons, poached
in white stock, on top. top. on in white stock, poached mignons, filets VOLAILLE
Suprêmes voLAILLE DE suPRtMEs DE Montpensier.SUPR~MES ofchicken chickenMontpensier.
Supr6mesof MONTPENSIER - Coat suprêmes andbreadcrumbs breadcrumbs withegg eggand
suprAmeswith the r,{oNrpsNsrER - Coatthe and in tipsin asparagus tips withasparagus
Garnishwith butter'Garnish inbutter. themin andsauté saut6them butter suprême. Dot
suprAme'Dot each oneach truffieon oftrume puttwo slicesof twoslices andput
butterand with butters)' (seeBUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound butter(see
Norieitebutter with Noisette For use thickened brown veal gravy. Forsauce sauce use
thickened brown veal gravy. Suprêmes of chicken à la Périgueux. SUPRÊMES DE
VOLAILLE Supr6mes of chicken t la P6rigueux. supn0Mss DE VoLAILLE À LA PÉRIGUEUX
and put on croûtons fried put cro0tonsfried on and inbutter butter Saut6in A r,c,
pfRrcuEux- -Sauté with coat with in Demi withDemicoat and truflesand withsliced
slicedtruffles Garnish inbutter. butter.Garnish glace (see SAUCE), flavoured with
Madeira. glacesauce sauce (see SAUCE), flavoured with Madeira.
1
1

DE VoLAILLE Supr0mes Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Pojarski. Pojarski. supnBurs

SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE Add 50 g. (2 oz., suprdmes. of the flesh the Chop POJARSKI -
Chop the flesh of the suprêmes. Add 50 g. (2 oz., g. (2 and squeezed, in milk
soaked I1cup) breadcrumbs, cup) breadcrumbs, soaked in milk and squeezed, 50 50 g.
(2 oz., oz., * t cup) cup) butter, butter, and and I 1 or or 2 2 tablespoons
tablespoons fresh fresh cream. cream. Season Season flour wprAmes. Reshape the
withsalt, with salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Reshape the suprêmes,
flour lightly and saut6 sauté in in butter. butter. lightly and Garnish Garnish
with with a a green green vegetable vegetable cooked cooked in in butter, butter,
and and dot dot with with Noiselte Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER,
Compound Compound butters)butters). VoLAILLE DE princesse. supnBuns Supr6mes
Suprêmes of of chicken cbicken princesse. SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE pRINcEssB PRINCESSE -
Cook Cook in in veal veal or or chicken chicken stock. stock. Put Put the the
suprdmes suprêmes on on crofitons croûtons fried fried in in butter, butter,
garnish garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips tips in in with Allemande butter
butter and and coat coat with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE)' SAUCE). Place
Place mignons, Put thefilets suprAme. two two slices slices of of trufres truffies
on on each each suprême. Put thefilets mignons, studded studded with with truffies,
truffles, on on top. top. DE VoLAILLE Supr6mcs Suprêmes of of chicken chicken
Richelieu. Richelieu. supnBuns SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE in and sauté saut6 in and
breadcrumbs egg and nrcnrrnu RICHELIEU - Coat Coat with with egg breadcrumbs and
(see BUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see butter. butter. Dot Dot with with Maitre Maître
d'h6tel d'hôtel butter oneachsuprAme. of trufre on put 4 4 slices and put slices
oftruffle Compoundbutterst) Compound butters) and each suprême. RossIM DE VOLAILLE
voLAILLE ROSSINI chicken Roasini. Supr0me of Suprême of chicken Rossini. suprBurs
SUP~MES DE Garnish in butter. fried in butter. Garnish put on on croûtons cro0tons
fried and put Saute in in butter, butter, and - Sauté trufles. and sliced sliced
truffles. g/at sautéed in butter, butter, and saut6ed in of foie gras with slices
slices of with (se SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see with Madeira Madeira sauce Coat with
supnturs vegetable* SUP~MES various vegetables. with various of chicken, chicken,
with SuprGmes of Suprêmes and supr€mes and the suprêmes Season the DIvERs -- Season
Lux LÉGUMES lfcuurs DIVERS DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE AUX DE in butter. butter. saut6 in
sauté diced vegetables: diced following vegetables: of the the following with any
any of Garnish with Garnish braised peeled mushrooms, mushrooms, braised in butter,
butter, peeled fried in aubergines fried aubergines in butter, butter, and simmered
simmered in in chunks chunks and cut in cucumber eut endives, cucumber endives, of
macCdoine of lettuce, macédoine braised lettuce, in butter, butter, braised French
beans beans in French aspara' hfranPaise, asparaot à d lafrançaise, peas in in
butter butter or in butter, butter, peas vegetables in vegetables pur6es. vegetable
purées. or cream, cream, vegetable gus tips in butter butter or tips in gus juices,
mixed wine white wine with white mixed with cooking juices, the cooking use the Foi
sauce sauoe use For gravY. veal gravy. brown veal and thickened thickened brown and
VERDI DE VOLAILLE VoLAILIJ VERDI supnElrlrs DE Verdi. SUP~MES dchicken Suprames of
Suprêmes chicken Verdi. pastry shell filled shell filled inaapastry Put them them
in in butter. butter. Put suprhmes in the suprêmes Saute the Sauté gras.Put Put two
two pur6e of of foie with purée bound with macaroni bound with diced diced macaroni
foie gras. with lightly wi with coatlightly and coat suprdme and eachsuprême top of
ofeach on top of truffie trufle on slices of th slices Marsala. with Marsala. (se
SAUCE), finished with SAUCE), finished sauce (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace and
in egg eggand coated in in slices, slices, coated cut in Add the mignons, cut the
filets Add filets mignons, in butter. butter. andsautéed saut6ed in breadcrumbs and
breadcrumbs pounos À Poach AL'ESTRAGON L'rsrRlGoN - - Poach I. POULARDE tarragon J.
with tarragon Chicken with Chicken Decorate oftarragon. tarragon. Oecorate
withaabunch bunchof inwhite white stock stock with chicken in aachicken chicken
thechicken over the Pourover leaves. Pour tarragon leaves. blanched tarragon with
blanched with and liquor,strained strainedand cookingliquor, thecooking ofthe
tablespoons of several tablespoons several has tarragonhas choppedtarragon
whichchopped towhich arrowrool to witharrowroot, thickened with thickened added.
beenadded. heen
poJARsKI

with Chicken tarragon Chicken with tarragon

237 237
CHICK.PEA CHICK-PEA
Chicken with withtarragon tarragonn. If.POULARDE ÀAL'ESTRAGON r'rsrR^ec,oN- - Cook
Cook Chicken the chicken in butter in a covered dish in the oven. To serve the
chicken in butter in a covered dish in the oven. To serve pour over it the cooking
juices, diluted with white wine and pour over it the cook.ing juices, diluted with
white wine and thickened veal gravy, to which a handful ofchopped tarragon
thickened veal gravy, to which a handful of chopped tarragon has been added. has
been added. Chicken timbale. See TIMBALE, CROOTES. Chicken timbale. See TIMBALE,
CROÛTES. pouLARDE ,l LA rosclNs Chicken ài la laToscane. Toscane. POULARDE Stuff
the the À LA TOSCAl'\E - - Stuff Chlcken (4 oz.,l cup) cooked spaghetti, 100 g.
chicken wi g. (4 with 100g. chicken th 100 oz., 1 cu p) cooke<! spaghetti, 100 g.
(4 oz.,l cup) of pur6e of foie gras,2 diced truffies and 50 g. (4 OZ., 1- cup) of
puree of foie gras, 2 diced truffies and 50 g. (2 oz.,l cup) grated Parmesan,
seasoned and bound with 4 (2 OZ., t cup) (* grated Parmesan, seasoncd and hound
with 4 tablespoons (~ cup) thickened thickened hrown brown veal gravy. Cook veal
gravy. Cook the the tabJespoons cup) chicken, and prepare the sauce as for Chicken
d Ia Derby. chicken, and prepare the sauce as for ChÎcken à la Derby. Surround the
chicken with 8 pastry cases filled with ham, Surround the chicken with 8 pastry
cases fjlled with ham. tongue and and !ruffies, truffies, bound bound with with
Rich Rich brown (see brown sauce sauce (see tongue SAUCE), flavoured witb with
tomato, tomato, and and with with 8 8 slices slices of offoie /ore SA UCE).
ftavoured gras, tossed in butter. gras, tossed in butter. pan juices over the
chicken. Pour the the pan Pour j UiL-eS over the chicken. poULARDE Tour.ousE poach
the Chicken Toulouse. Toulouse. POULARDF. Chlcken TOULOUSE -- Poach the chicken in
in white white stock. stock. GaOlish Garnish with garnish (see with Toulouse
Toulouse garnish (see chicken GARNISH) and pour Allemande and pOlir (see SAUCE)
over Allemande sauce sauce (see GARNISH) SAUCE) over it. iL. pouLARDE Arrx TRUFFEs
Cook the Chicken wlth with truffles. hufres. POULARDE Chicken AUX TRUFFES -- Cook
the chicken, covered, with butter in the oven. When cooked add chicken, covered,
with butter in the oveu. When cooked add 250 g. (9 oz.) sliced raw truffies. Cover,
and keep on low 250 g. (9 oz.) sliced raw truffies. Cover, and keep on low heat for
a few moments. heat for a few moments. juices with Madeira and Rich brown Dilute
the cooking cooking juices Dilute the with Madeira and Rich browll sauce (see
SAUCE). sauce (see SA UCE). Chicken with trufres i la perigourdine (Plumerey's
recipe). Chicken with truffles à la périgourdine (Plumerey's recÎpe). IoULARDE
rnurrm A m pEnrcouRDINE - .Draw and singe a POULARDE TRUffÉE À LA PÉRIGOURDIt-.'E
'Draw and singe a chicken without damaging the skin. Wash and peel I kg. chicken
without damaging the skin. Wash and peel 1 kg. (2 lb.) truffies and cut into pieces
the size of pigeons' eggs. (2 Ih.) truffies and cut into pieces the size of
pigeons' eggs. Keep the scraps. Simmer the trumes with salt, pepper, spices, Keep
the scraps. Simmer the truffies with salt, pepper. spices, half a bay leaf, a small
sprig of thyme and some grated nuthalf a hay leaf, a small sprig of thyme and sorne
grated nutmeg, in 225 g. (8 oz., I cup) chicken fat and 225 g. (8 oz., I meg, in
225 g. (8 OZ., 1 cup) clticken fat and 225 g. (8 oz., 1 cup) melted, strained fat
15 minutes. Stuff the cup) melted, strained fat bacon, hacon, for for 15 minutes.
Stutr the chicken with the mixture, cover with the outside skin of the chicken with
the mixture, cover with the outside skin of the trufles On the served, 3 or or 4 4
days. days. On the day day it it is is served, truffies and anù leave leave for for
3 remove the trufle skins and toss in butter with an onion, a remove the truffie
sk.ins and toss in hutter with an onion, a carrot carrot and and a a sprig sprig of
of parsley. parsley. Put Put the the chicken chicken on on a a skewer. skewer, bard
with fresh pork bard with fresh pork fat, fat, cover co ver with with the the
vegetables vegetables and and truffies, and wrap in oiled paper. Cook on a spit for
l| hours, tfuffies, and wrap in oilcd paper. Cook on Cl spit for Il hours,
sprinkling with water. 5 minutes before serving, unwrap the sprinkling with water.
5 minutes before serving, unwrap the chicken and let it brown. Remove from the spiq
discard the chicken and let il brown. Remove from the spit, discard the bards and
serve with Pdrigueux souce'(see SAUCE). bards and serve with Périgueux sauce' (see
SAUCE). Chicken DE VOLAILLE Chicken turban turban (ring). (ring). TuRBAN TURRAN DE
VoLATLLE - Line Line a a buttered savarin (ring) mould with thin slices of raw
chicken. huttered savarin (ring) mould with thin slices ofraw chicken, overlapping
the edges. Cover with a thin layer of Chicken overlapping the edges. Cover with a
thLn layer of Chicken mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Fill the mould
mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Fill the mould (q.v.) with with a a salpicon
salpicon (q.v.) of of cooked cookoo chicken, chicken, truffies truffies and and
mushmushrooms, rooms, bound bound with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cover Cover with another thin layer of the forcemeat, folding
the edges with another thin layer of the forcemeat, folding the edges of of the the
sliced sliced chicken chicken over over it. it. Poach Poach the tbe 'turban'
'turhan' in in the the oien oven in a bain-marie for 40 minutes. in a bain-marie
for 40 minutes. Leave for a few moments after cooking before unmoulding. Leave for
a few moments after cooking before unmoulding. Fill Fill the the middle middle with
wilh a a garnish garnish and and serve serve with with SuprAme Suprême or or
Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). pouLrr Chicken i la
viennoise. Chlcken à la vielUloise. POULET A Àu LA vrrxNorsr VIENNOISE -- This This
method is for small spring chickens, but can be applied to method is for small
spring chickens, but can be applied to small tender roasting chickens Qtoulets de
grain). Joint the small tender roasting chickens (poulets de grain). Joint the
chicken. Season the pieces with salt and pepper, flour them, chicken. Season the
pieces with salt and pepper, flour them, dip in egg beaten with oil, and cover with
fresh breadcrumbs. dip in egg beaten with oil, and cover with fresh breadcrumhs.
Cook in clarified butter or lard. Serve on a napkin, garnished Cook in clarified
butter or lard. Serve on a napkin, garnished with with fried fried parsley parsley
and and quarters quartcrs of oflemon. lemon. This chicken may also be fried in deep
fat. This chicken may also be fried in deep fat. Chicken vol-au-vent - See VOL-AU-
VENT Chlcken vol-au-vent - See VOL-AU-VENT Chicken wings - See PINIONS. Chlckcn
wings - See PIN IONS.

pouuq,nnr

nosae)originating originatingin inthe the Mediterranean Mediterranean area, area,

one onespecies species of of I/osae) whichis iscultlvated cultivated in inFrance.
France. which In south-western south-western France France chick-peas chick-peas
are are cooked cooked en en ln estoufade (q.v.). (q.v.). They They are are used
usedin greatdeal, inSpain Spainaagreat deal, being being eSlouffade an essential
essential ingredient ingredient of of many many soups. soups. Chick-peas Chick-peas
are arealso also an popular in very popular in North North Arrica, Africa, where
where lhey partof they are are part of the the very garnish for for the the classic
classic couscous. couscous. garnisn Chick-peas Catalan Catalan style. style. POIS
nors CHICHF,S cHrcHEsÀ ALA m CATALANE c^a.rnrANE -Chick-peas Soak the the chick-
peas chick-peas untiJ until they quite soft. they become become quite Boil in soft.
Boil in Soak water with with aa vegetable vegetable garnish garnish (for (for
example, example, white white dried dried water beans), a garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and a
bouquet bouquet garni piece of and aa piece of bacon. bacon. Season Season heans),
with salt pepper. AdJ salt and and pepper. Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons
oil oil to to form form aa with layer of of fat fat on on the the surface. surface.
Add Add Spanish Spanish sausages sausages called called layer chorizos. Simmer
Simmer very gently for very gently for about about 4 4 hours. hours. chorizos.
Drain the the chick-peas, chick-peas, remove remove the vegetable garnish and the
vegeta and Drain hIe garnish garni and the bouquet bouquet garni put the and put
the chick-peas chick-peas into into a a saucepan. saucepan. the Add a a few few
tablespoons tablespoons tomato pur6e, the tomato purée, the chorizos chorizos and
and the the Add bacon eut in unifonn pieces. Add cut in uniform pieces. Add a pinch
of garlic and a pinch of garlic and a a few few hacon tablespoons of of the the
liquid liquid left left over over from from boiling boiling the the
chickchicktablespoons peas. Simmer Simmer for for 1 I hour. hour. peas.

pon CHICK-PEA. Plant (of the family CHICHF. - Plant (of the family
LegumiLegumiCHICK-PEA. POIS cHrcrrE
238 238

(U.S. Endive). CHICORY (V.S. Endive). ENDIVE nNorw -- Magdehourg Magdebourg chicory
chicory is is CHICORY known in in France France and and U.S.A. U.S.A. as as endive
endive and and in in Belgium, known grown in where it it is is grown quantities, as
large quantitîes, in large as chicorée chicorie de de Bruxelles, Bruxelles, where
(goat's witloof or or barbe-de-bouc barbe-de-bouc (goat witloof 's beard). Chicory
roots, grown Ln roots, grown in the the dark, dark, are are white and and delicate.
delicate. Clticory Chicory cornes comes into into season season in in Octoher
October and and is is availahle available Chicory throughout the the win winter. It
is is eaten eaten raw raw in salads, salads, or cooked in throughout ter. ft
various ways. ways. various Method of of cooking. Trim and wash the cooking. Trim
the chicory, leaving il it Method in water for as short a a time as as possible. a
saucepan in water for as possible. Place in in a (l oz.,2 g. (1 with 25 25 g. o2'2
tahlespoons) juice tablespoons) butter, a a pinch of salt, juice with (6
tablespoons, of I dl. (6 and 1 scant * of f ~ lemon lernon and tablespoons, seant t
cup) water, for (generous 1 500 g. I lh.) lb.) chicory. Cover and bring boil. 500
g. (generous hring to the hoil. Simmer Simmer steadily steadily for for 45 45
minutes. minutes. Another Trim and chicory and place in a Anolher method. method.
Trim and wash the chicory saucepan saucepan with with 50 50 E.(2 g. (2 oz.,* OZ., t
cup) butter, hutter, a pinch of of salt and a few few drops drops of of lemon
lernon juice. juice. Cover Cover and stew stew for 45 minutes. Chicory in this
Chicory cooked cooked in Ibis way way can can be he used used for the recipes given
given below. helow. Chicory Chicory should should never never be be parboiled
parhoiled before before stewing. stewing. Chicory Chicory ir à la la bechamel.
béchamel. nNnrvns ENDIVES A À re LA sfcHAMer BÉCHAMEL - Cook Cook the chicory
chicory as as above. a hove. Cover with with Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE), SAUCE). and and the the cooking cooking stock, stock, boiled boiled
down down with with butter. butter. Chicory Chicory with with brown brown or or
noisette noisette butter. butter. ENDrvtrs ENDIVES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE NoIR Nom -
Cook Cook the the chicory chicory as as in in the tbe first nrst recipe. recipe.
Drain. Drain. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish. dish. Pour Pour on on lemon lemon
juice juice and, and, just just before before serving, serving, hot hot Brown Brown
or or Noisette Noiselle butter bu/ter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound
butters). butters). Chicory Chicory with with butter. butter. ENDrvEs ENDIVES AU AU
BEURRE BEURRE - Cook Cook as as in in first first recipe. recipe. Pour Pour on on
the the stock stock with wi th a a piece piece of of butter butter added. added.
Chicory Chicory chiffonnade. chiffonnade. cHTFFoNNADE CHIFFONNADE D'ENDrvEs
D'ENDIVES - Remove Remove the the outer outer leaves. leaves. Wash, Wash, dry dry
and and shred shred them them finely. finely. Cook Cook in in butter, butter, in in
a a covered covered pan, pan, with with a a pinch pinc.:h of of salt salt and and
sugar. sugar. Chicory Chîcory chiffonnade chiffonnade with with cream. cream.
cHTFFoNNADE CHfFFONNADf. D'ENDrvEs D'ENDIVES IÀ u LA cniur CRÈME - Cook Cook as as
in in the the first first recipe. recipe. Five Five minutes minutes before before
serving, serving, moisten moislen with with 2 2 dl. dl. (| (!- pint, pint, scant
scant cup) cup) boiling boiling cream. cream. Boil Boil fast fast for for a a few
few seconds. seconds. Serve Serve with with the the cooking cooking stock stock and
and fresh fresh butter. butter. Chicory Chicory ià la la flamande. flamande.
ENDrvEs ENDIVES A À r,c LA TTAMINDE FLAMANDE - another another name name for for
Chicory Chicory with witlt butter. buller. Chicory Chicory fritots. fritots.
ENDrvBs ENDIVES EN EN FRrror FRJTOT - Cook Cook the the chicory chicory as as in in
the the first first recipe. recipe. Drain Draio and and dry. dry. Quarter Quarter
the the shoots shoots and and steep in a a marinade marinade of of oil, oil, lemon
lemon juice, juice, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. steep in Before Before
serving, serving, dip dip them them in in light light batter batter and and deep-
fry. deep-f"ry. Serve Serve garnished. gaOlished. Chicory Chlcoryau augratin.
gratin.ENDrvEs ENDIVESAU AU GRATTN GRATIN -- Cook Cook the the chicory chicory in
in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. pour
Pour on on melted melled butter. in the the oven. oven. butter. Brown Brown in
Chicory Chicory in in gravy. gravy. ENDrvEs ENDIVES AU AU JUS JUS -- Cook Cook as
as in in the the first first
CHIFFONNADE CHIFFONNADE

(Mcolas) Chicory (Nicolas) Chicory

tablespoons few tablespoons pour on a few on a and pour a dish dish and recipe. on
a Arrange on recipe. Arrange the of the stock of cooking stock and the the cooking
veal stock stock and concentrated con;entrated brown veal chicory. chicory. cnscQUE
A LA rl GRECQUE rNoIvEs À (hors-d'auvre). ENDIVES grecque (hors-d'œuvre). Chicory à
dr la grecque a cloth cloth. in a and dry dry in Wash and shoots. Wash . chicory
shoots. Trim small small chicory - Trim la d la Artichokes à for Artichokes
prepared as as for stock prepared a stock Plunge into a them into Plunge them
recipe' in that that recipe. as in Finish as (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE) grecque grecque
(see HORS-D'(EUVRE).. Finish Name unuNriinn -- Name rlr MEUNIÈRE a, LA ENDIvEs À
Chlcory la meunière. mermiire. ENDIVES ir la Chicory à butter. used brown butter.
with brown for Chicory Chicory with used for the Cook the rralrnNnlsn -- Cook A LA
Ln MILANAISE ENDIvEs À Chlcory la milanaise. milanaise. ENDIVES ir la Chicory à
dish. an ovenproof ovenproof dish. on an Arrange on chicory recipe. Arrange first
recipe. as in in the the first chicory as (see ASPARAGUS). ASPARAGUS)' lamilanaise
d la Proceed for Asparagus milanaise (see Asparagus à asfor Proceed as the Cook the
tr{onNlv- - Cook i LA Ll MORNAY ENDIvEs À Chicory Mornay. ENDIVES la Mornay.
Chicory ài la dish ovenproof dish in an an ovenproof Arrange in recipe. Arrange
chicory first recipe. in the as in the first chicory as conand the the
con(seeSAUCE) SAUCE) and sauce (see and Mornay sauce with Mornay coverwith and
coyer grated cheese. cheese. with grated Sprinkle with centrated chicory. Sprinkle
of the thechicory. stock of centrated stock oven. hot oyen veryhot inaavery Pour .
and brown brown in melted butter butterand onmelted Pour on poloNllsE- -Cook the
Cook the ALA rePOLONAISE ENDIvEs À Chicory polonaise. ENDIVES lapolonaise.
Chicoryài la proceed andproceed dishand inaadish Arrange in chicory recipe.Arrange
firstrecipe. asin inthe thefirst chicory as (seeASPARAGUS). ASPARAGUS). polonaise
(see as lapolonaise Asparagusàdla asfor for Asparagus punrn D'ENDIVES as chicoryas
Cookthe thechicory Purée D'ENDIvES- - Cook ofchicory. Puree of chicory. puRÉE
pur6eand and Heatthe thepurée sieve.Heat in ub through Rub through aasieve.
recipe.R inthe firstrecipe. thefirst add cream. orcream. little butter butteror
addaalittle of fewtablespoons tablespoonsof withaafew This pur6ecan thickened with
can be bethickened This purée (see oraa SAUCE), sauce(see Béchamel SA UCE), or
Veloutisauce orthick thickVelouté sauceor Bichamel sauce biown Concentratedbrown
potatoes.Concentrated third mashedpotatoes. ofmashed weightof itsweight ofits
thirdof veal added. added. maybe be vealstock stockmay drythe the anddry Washand
Chicory SALADE D'ENDIvns- - Wash slrlDED'ENDIVES salad. Chicorysalad. remaining
theremaining Separate the Separate chicory. leaves. fadedIeaves. Removefaded
chicory.Remove juice lemonjuice oil,lemon withoil, Seasonwith leaves shred . Season
them' or shredthem halveor andhalve leavesand or vinegar, and pepper. pepper. and
vinegar,salt, salt, or be also can orshredded, shredded,can also be Chicory,
wholeOr leaveswhole theleaves withthe Chicory,with sauces). (seeSAUCE, Coldsauces).
SAUCE,Cold dressed with Mayonnaise(see withMayonnaise dressed into salad. Cooked
chicory can also be made into aa salado made be also can chicory Cooked

D'ENDIVE - Using cooked chicory sounruf D'ENDIVE sorff6. SOUFFLÉ Chicory souffli.
Chicory - Using cooked chicory a fine sieve, proceed asfor Endive souffid (see
rubbed through througb a rubbed fine sieve, proceed as for Endive soufflé (see
ENDTVE). ENDIVE).

A c.lrs - The wild chicory cHIcoREE À COFFEE. CHlCORÉE CHICORY, COFFEE. CHICORY,
CAFÉ - The wild chicory for coffee coffee since 1769. It substitute for a
substitute as a used as has been been used root has root since 1769. It and has
given rise to Germany in then in Sicily, used first was was first used in Sicily,
then in Germany and has given rise to up-into cossettes,are roots, cut up The
roots, industry. The important industry. an important an into cossettes, are -cut
less finely' The different types or less more or powdered, more and powdered, dried
and dried finely. The ditferent types selected ftom selected gros-grains, as
commercially as gros-grains, from known commercially are known are cossetres;
chicory small from (roots); demi-grains, cossettes cossettes (roots); demi-grains,
from small cossettes; cbicory form' powder form. in powder chicory in and chicory
courantes; and courantes; coffee, although this is than coffee, value than
foodvalue more food has more Chicory has Chicory although this is is small. It
produces consumed is amount consumed as the the amount impoitant as not important
not smal!. lt produces prevents andprevents properties, laxative properties, and
with laxative infusion with dark infusion aa dark much real coffee too when occurs
which poisoning laffeine caffeine poisoning which occurs when too much real coffee
justifiably, do not allow the addiuddi"ts, justifiably, Coffeeaddicts. isdrunk.
drunk. Coffee is do not allow the addiincoffee. coffee' chicory in anychicory ofany
tionof tion

plants, allplants, foraU incooking cookingfor usedin Term used CHIFFONNADE- - Term
CHIFFONNADE Itisis ribbons.It orribbons. stripsor finestrips intofine cutinto
otherwise, cut orotherwise, herbalor herbai lettuce cut into andlettuce sorreland
ofsorrel mixtureof foraamixture usedfor specially used specially cut into butter.
inbutter. juliennestrips cookedin andcooked stripsand julienne as a garnish for
soups' usedas areused chffinnade s ihechiffonnades of Mostof Most the are a garnish
for soupS. cHIFFoNNADE DE in butter. cooked chiffonnade Lettuce DE Lettuce
chiffonnade cooked in butter. CHIFFONNADE finely, lettucefinely, ofa alettuce
leaves the Slice BEURRE AU LAITUEAU BEURRE - - Slice the leaves of LAITUE in
lettuce sliced Put the leaves. coarserleaves. Put the sliced lettuce in a a
thecoarser asidethe leavingaside leaving forevery every butterfor tablespoons)
butter panwith tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) *1th22tablespoons pan gently until the
liquor cook and (g Season g. lettuce. oz.) 2SO 250 g. (8 oz.) lettuce. Season and
cook gently until the liquor evaporated. has has evaporated. cHIFFoNNADE DE LArruE
cream. with chifronnadewith Lettucechiffonnade Lettuce cream. CHIFFONNADE DE LAITUE
Lettuce chffinnade way same the r-a, cnDMs-Prepared ÀA LA CRÈME - Prepared inin the
same way asas Lettuce chiffonnade moisten softened,moisten has lettuce the When
buttei. cooked in cooked in butter. When the lettuce has softened, down until the
and boil cream fresh few tablespoons with few tablespoons fresh cream and boil down
until the with aa
239 239
CHIMNEY HOOK

CHIMNEY HOOK
pE-TSAI. CHINESE CABBAGE _ This cHou DE CHINESE CABBAGE oror PE-TSAI. CHOU DE CHINE
- This cHrNE fairly common cabbage has oval heart common cabbage has anan oval
heart with very tightly fairly with very tightly closed leaves. closed leaves. All
recipes given green for cabbage can also Ail recipes given for green cabbage can
bebe used. It It can used. can also _ be used raw salad, marinade, like be used
inin raw salad, oror inin aa marinade, like red cabbage. red cabbage.
(FruiQ CHINOIS French name for green small CHINOIS (Fruit) -French name for small
green oror yellow yellow
Chinese oranges, which preserved are braridy. are preserved inin brandy. Chinese
oranges, which

liquor has evaporated. Iiquor has evaporated. This chffinnade can also be moistened
with cream sauce. chiffonnade can also be moistened with cream sauce. This Mixed
chiffonnade (garnish for soups). cHTFFoNNADE Mixed chiffonnade (gamish for soups).
CHIFFONNADE MELANGEE - Prepared in the same way as iettuce chiffonnade, MELANGÉE -
Prepared in the same way as Lettuce chiffonnade, with a mixture of equal parts of
sorrel and lettuce lJaves. with a mixture of equal parts ofsorrel and lettuce
le.aves. Sorrel chiffonnade. cHTFFoNNADE D'osErLLE _ prepared Sorrel chiJfonnade.
CHIFFONNADE D'OSEILLE - Prepared with sorrel leaves in the same way as Lettuce
cntXonniae. tt with sorrel leaves in the same way as Lettuce chiffonnade. It potage
t!_lrg specially for sanft (see SOUPSAND AND isBROTHS). used specially for Potage
santé (see SOUPS BROTHS). CHIMNEY HOOK. cnfumrinr - A toothed pot-hook CHIMNEY
HOOK. CRÉMAILLÈRE - A toothed pot-hook used for suspending cauldrons and cooking
pots in used for suspending cauldrons and cooking pots in chimneys. "hi-rr"yr. The.
symbolic expression pendre ta ueiaiilire (to hang up -The symbolic expression
pendre la crémaillère (to hang the chimney hook) means the first meal in a new
home. up the chimney hook) means the first meal in a new home. CHINA See
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. CHINA - -See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. CHINCHARD - See SAUREL.
CHIN CHARD - See SA UREL. CHINE. cHATNE - The bony part adhering to the fillet of a
CHINE. CHAINE - The bony part adhering to the fillet of a loin. of veal, mutton,
lamb or pork, or the 6ony part of a rib loin of veal, mutton, lamb or pork, or the
bony part of a rib or sirloin of beef. or sirloin of beef.

rwoll:::ffiinois Two types of chinois

(Larousse)

(Utensil)-- ConicaI CHINOIS (Utensil) Conicalstrainer CHINOIS strainerwith

withaafine finemesh. mesh. CHIPOLATA Garnish of ofbraised CHIPOLATA -- Garnish
braisedchestnuts, chestnuts, smal! glazed smallglazed onions, diced diced breast
breast of pork, chipolata of pork, chipolata sausages, onions, somesausages, and
andiome_ glazed carrots times glazed (see GARNISHES). carrots (see GARNISHES).
Applies times eppiiesalso alsoto to cuts of of butcher's butcher's meat meat and
and to to chicken. cuts chicken. Chipolata was originally originally an an ltalian
Italian ragoût ragoitt with with an an onion onion ^ Chipolata was foundation. The
word word is is also foundation. The also applied applied to to small small
sausages sausages enclosed in in sheep's sheep's intestines. intestines. enclosed
Chinese artichoke
Chinese artichoke

CHIQUETER -- To To indent indent the CHIQUETER the margins margins of of aa vol-au-

vent vol-au_ventcase, case, the rim rim ofa of a tart, tart, or gdteau, with or
gâteau, the with a a small small knife. knife.

CHINESE ARTICHOKE. cRosNE DE JApoN plant CHINESE ARTICHOKE. CROSNE DE JAPON Plant
originating in china and Japan, first cultivated in France for originating in China
and Japan, first cultivated in France for its edible tubers, at crosnes (seine-et-
oise). It is arso called its edible tubers, at Crosnes (Seine-et-Oise). It is also
called knotroot, chorogi and Japanese artichoke. knotroot, chorogi and Japanese
artichoke. vegetable, Tubers _This -are This vegetable, delicious delicious when
when fresh, fresh, is is white. white. Tubers which have dried soating, are which
have dried out out and and been been revived revived by by soaking, sometimes sold
as fresh, and can be recogniied by a Siown sometimes sold as fresh, and can be
recognised by a brown discolouration. discoJouration. The Chinese artichoke is rich
in carbohydrates, mostly The Chinese artichoke is rich in carbohydrates, mostly
sugars..It hasa pleasant, though rather insipid, tasie and is sugars. It has a
pleasant, though rather insipid, taste and is easily digested. easily digested. Put
the tubers in a strong linen cloth with a handful of Put the tubers in a strong
linen cloth with a handful of sea-salt, and shake them well. Wash them and ..mou"
uny sea-salt, and shake them weil. Wash them and rem ove any skin that is left.
Blanch in salted water. simmer in butter skin that is left. Blanch in salted water.
Simmer in butter without allowing them to brown. without allowing them to brown.
Tubers prepared in this way can be served as thev are as a Tubers prepared in this
way can be served as they are as a vegetable, or used to garnish a roast.
vegetable, or used to garnish a roast. They can-also be prepared d la uime, aux .
They fines herbes, herbes, au au can also be prepared à la crème, auxfines jus and
in aU the theways ways given given for for Jerusalem Jerusalem aitichokes
artichokesfq.u.j. (q,v.). jus and in all

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Chives Chives

CHMS. CHIVES. crBouLETTE, CIBOULETTE, crvETTE CIVETTE - Chives Chives are are used
used as as a a seasoning, seasoning, mainly mainly in in salads. salads.

In In certain certain illnesses illnesses a a salt-reduced salt-reduced (salt-free)

(salt-free) diet diet is is prescribed. prescribed. This This requires requires not
not only only the the drastic drastic cutting cutting down down of of condiments
condiments but but also also the the elimination elimination of of foods foods
-rich rich in in chloride. chloride.
CHOCOLATE. CHOCOLATE.csocor.trCHOCOLAT-The Thedried, dried,roasted roastedand
andpolished polished 'nibs' 'nibs' or or almonds almonds of ofthe the cacao cacao
bean bean are are crushed, crushed, and and the the resulting of good good quality,
quality, is is about about 50 50 per per cent cent resulting liquor, liquor, if if
of cocoa liquorisispartly partlydefatted, defatted,ititis iscobled cooledand and
cocoafat. fat.When Whenthe theliquor solidifies solidifiesinto intoaahard
hardblock, block,known knownas asbitter bitterchocolate. chocolate. This This is is
used used for for baking bakingin in U.S.A. U.S.A. The The cooking cooking
chocolate chocolate used used
240 240

the ofsodium sodium chloride. chloride. It It is is found found in in most most of

of ihe the bodv body the form form of tissues tissues and and body body liquids,
liquids, particularly particularly the the blood. blood.

CIILORIDE. CmORIDE. orr CHLORE - Metalloid Metalloid that that enters enters the
the system system in in onr -

Chinese cabbage or Pe-tsai Chinese cabbage or Pe-tsai

CHOLESTEROL CHOLESTEROL
bay, The The seasoning seasoning usually usually consists consists of of onions,
onions, thyme, thyme, bay, with cloves, andsalt. salt.The Thesauce sauceis
iscombined combined with c1oves,nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper pepperand (lambic). aaglass
glass of ofMadeira, Madeira, or orstrong strongBelgian Belgianbeer beer (lambic).
Brown Choesels Choeselsiàla labruxelloise bruxelloise(Paul (PaulBouillard's
Bouillard'srecipe) recipe)-- Brown an ox tail, cut into pieces, together with two
calf (U.S. veal)

Encyclopddie). The Themanufacture manufacture of ofchocolate chocolate(l'

(l'Encyclopédie). From to right: From left leftto right: Sifting Siftingthe
thealmonds almonds ofthe of the cacao cacao beans; beans; Roasting; Roasting;
Grating Gratingthe the almonds; almonds; Crushing Crushing the thechocolate
chocolate

most most in in England England and and Franc€ France is is a a mixture mixture of
of the the chocolate chocolate with some sorne of of the the fat fat removed
removed and and sugar sugar added. added. In In liquor with

England this this is is known known as as pure pure chocolate chocolate and and in
in the the U.S.A. U ,S.A. as as England bitter-sweet chocolate. chocolate. Milk
Milk chocolale chocolate has has powdered powdered or or conconbitier-sweet added
to to the the sweetened sweetened chocolate chocolate and and is is densed milk
milk added densed fiavoured with vanilla, almond, cinnamon, cinnamon, etc. etc.
Chocolate Chocolate flavoured used used in confectionery confectionery to coat
sweets has has added added cocoa cocoa fat. fat. Cocoa is is made from powdered
chocolate chocolate which which contains con tains Cocoa 18 per cent fat. only l8
Chocolate is is a a concentrated concentrated food, food, but but should should not
not be be ihocolate abused. The The cocoa from from which it it is is made contains
con tains theotheoabused. caffeine, which bromine - a nitrogenous nitrogenous
substance similar similar to to caffeine, which bromine a stimulating effect on on
the nervous system, system, and and makes makes stimulatingeffect has a also but
also intellectual fatigue fatigue - but chocolate an excellent excellent tonic for
intellectual and those obese and the obese is harmful to which is calcium to the
those calcium oxalate, which with rheumatic or liver complaints. Vitamin and
Vitamin phosphates and calcium, phosphates in calcium, rich in is rich Chocolate
Chocolate is is therethereand is irelps the bones to absorb calcium D- and - which
helps and workers and heavy workers valuaUh food for children, athletes, heavy fore
a valuable for recommended for not recommended is not It is in moderation. It but
in intellectuals, but diabetics, for diabetics, nor for constipation, rheumatism,
nor from constipation, sufferers sufferers from eaten is better It is better eaten
chocolate. It special chocolate, own special who have their their own who have
meals. between meals. who the Spaniards, Spaniards, who by the to Europe Europe by
brought to was brought Chocolate Chocolate was through spread through Its use use
spread 1519. Its in 1519. Mexico in it in in Mexico had had discovered discovered
it after. soon after. Europe Europe soon the increasing the of increasing secret of
the secret divulges the Brillat-savarin divulges Brillat-Savarin Mother d'Arestrel,
Mother Mme. d'Arestrel, which Mme, of chocolate chocolate which fiavour flavour of
revealed Belley, revealed at Belley, Visitation at of the the Visitation of the the
Convent Convent of Superior Superior of it the the make it good chocolate,
chocolate, I)1ake you want to taste taste good 'When you want to to to him: Lim:
'When chocoit. The leave it. pot, and The chocoand leave coffee pot, faience coffee
in a a faience night before before in night gives it it aa this gives and this
night and during the the night concentrated during late hG becomes becomes
concentrated consistencY.' tency. ' m uch better much better consis g. 40 g. Use 40
(beverage). CHOCOLAT cuocolAr -- Use chocolate (beverage). of chocolate Preparation
Preparation of liquid' of liquid. cup of breakfast cup for aa breakfast good sweet
chocolate for sweet chocolate oi.) good (11 Qtr oz.) hot and hot water and little
water pieces, add addaa little into pieces, chocolate into the chocolate Brlak the
Break soften' pan, let chocolatesoften, thechocolate the pan, let the gently' Coyer
Coverthe heat gently. milk and heat milk and paste. 2or or Add 2 smooth pas into
aasmooth whip into andwhip t[e heat heatand from the remove te. Add remove from
paste, then then thepaste, dilute the todilute milk to or milk water or boiling
water 33tablespoons tablespoons boiling or chocolate or Thechocolate time. The the
time. all the stirring ail liquid, stirring ofthe theliquid, restof the therest
toboil. boil. allowed to mustnever never be beallowed cocoa cocoa must
and tripeand oftripe madeof ragofrt made (Belgran cookery) cookery)-A CHOESELS - A
ragoût CHOESELS(Belgian pancreas. pancreas. meat, resembles meat, pancreas
resembles removed,pancreas fatremoved, thefat with the C1eaned, Cleaned, with
usually isusually pancreas,which whichis Beefpancreas, andelongated. elongated.
Beef isfiat flatand but butis (18oz.). g.(18 oz.). 500g. about500 weighsabout
forchoesels, choesels, weighs used usedfor partsof ofthe the otherparts byother
supplemented by pancreasis isoften oftensupplemented Thepancreas The dish. thedish.
ofthe flavourof qualities to tothe thefiavour addtheir theirqualities whichadd
animal, animal, which breast andbreast sweetbreads,and calves'sweetbreads,
quenellesof ofcaJves' kidneys, quenelles Ox-tail, Ox-tail, kidneys, inchoesels.
choesels' featurein feetoflamb of lambfeature andfeet and

gently for 45 beef temperature and and cook cook gently for 45 beef fat. fat.
Reduce Reduce the the temperature veal, cut into pieces, and minutes. minutes. Add
Add 11kg. kg. (2i (2ilb.) lb.) breast breastof ofveal, cut into pieces, and
minutes, stirring. I1large large sliced sliced onion. onion. Cook Cook for for a a
further further 30 30 minutes, stirring. pieces' When the kidney has Addl Add 1beef
beefkidney, kidney, cut cutinto intolarge large pieces. When the kidney has (*
pint, lf cups) lambic stiffened, stiffened, moisten moi sten the the stew stew with
with 3 3dl. dl. (1 pint, li cups) lambic garni (q.v.). Season with salt (Belgian
(Belgian beer). beer). Add Add a a bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Season with salt
and and cayenne. cayenne. a bottle of Cooi< Cook gently gently for for 30 30
minutes. minutes. Add Add to to the the choesels choesels a bottle of cooking
liquor of the (scant pint,2l cups) S at. lambic anO lambic and 5 dl. (scant pint,
2i cups) of the cooking liquor White from from some sorne mushrooms mushrooms (see
(see COURT-BOUILLON, COURT-BOUILLON, White o oms). cour t-bouillon for for mushr
mushrooms). court-bouillon Fatty substance rendered CHOLESTEROL. CHOLESTEROL.
cnorrsrfnor CHOLESTÉROL - Fatty substance rendered atheroma, of sufferers from
diets The liver. by the assimilable from atheroma, assimilable by the liver. The
diets ofsufferers contain arterioscleroiis, arteriosclerosis, gout gout and and
liver liver complaints corn plaints should should contain only only moderate
moderate amounts amounts of of cholesterol. cholesterol. contained in some Iielow
is the the proportion proportion of of cholesterol cholesterol contained in sorne
Below is foods: common common foods: 20.00 per 1000 Brains Brains 20·00 per 1000
4'00 ,, Butter Butter 4·00 1.50 ,, Calf's Calf's heart heart 1· 50 3'50 ,, Calf's
Calf's kidney kidney 3· 50 4.50 ,, Calf's Calf's lights lights 4·50 2.50 ,, Calf's
Calf's liver liver 2· 50 2'80 ), Calf's sweetbread Calf's 2·80 20'00 ,, Egg yolk
Egg 20·00 " less than I per 1000' contain less foods contain Ot[er foods Other than
1 per 1000. (phytosterol and ergoplants (phytosterol in plants found in Two
substances substances found Two and ergoTherefore cholesterol. Therefore to
cholesterol. resemblance to a strong strong resemblance bear a sterol) bear sterol)
that vegetables avoid must diets must cholesterol-reduced diets on cholesterol-
reduced those on those avoid vegetables that such as the substances, two in these
particularly rich are are particularly rich in these two substances, such as the
beans, broad beans, lentils) (peas, chick peas, haricot haricot beans, pulsls
(peas, chick peas, pulses broad beans, lentils) and mushrooms. mushrooms. and comes
either from origin. It cornes dual origin. a dual has a Cholesterol has Cholesterol
either from (egg yolk, offal, milk, cream' butter) foods cholesterol-rich
cholesterol-rich foods (egg yolk, offal, milk, cream, butter) mainly by the liver.
effected mainly a synthesis synthesis effected of a result of or as as the the
resuIt or by the Iiver. form itself in the body to form continue to can therefore
therefore continue Chblesterol can itself in the body Cholesterol is reduced. foods
cholesterol-rich foods is reduced. of cholesterol-rich intake of when the the
intake even when even It forms part functions. variety of wide has a Cholesterol
Cholesterol has a wide variety of functions. It forms part it enters into the
composition of membranes; cellular of the of the cellular membranes; it enters into
the composition of plasma to ensure the transpresent in in the the plasma is
present it is fats; it tissue fats; tissue to ensure the transliver where where
they are the Iiver fats to to the reserve fats by reserve acids by ference of of
acids ference they are up. burned burned up. acids which act as produces bile bile
acids liver produces in the the liver Its oxidation oxidation in Its which act as
intestine. in the the intestine. agent in an emulsifying emulsifying agent an seems
hormones corticosurrenaloma of the the corticosurrenaloma honnones seems The
synthesis synthesis of The cholesterol. of that parallel to course a follow to to
follow a parallel course to that of cholesterol. with the the excessive wrestle
with to wrestle matter to delicate matter it is isaadelicate While it While
excessive very easy to put a it is is very internally, it cholesterol internally,
of cholesterol formation of formation easy to put a by eliminating simply
cholesterol of intake of cholesterol simply by eliminating excessive intake stopto
toexcessive stop diet. thediet. from the foods from certain foods certain
especially in the overweight, especially avoid becoming becoming overweight, One
should should avoid One in the limit the the percentage of calories tolimit itis
iswiser wiserto and it fifties,and earlyfifties, early percentage of calories per
cent. 30 fats to to30 per cent. fromfats derivedfrom derived be avoided: offal
fatsshould should be animal fats containinganimal Allfoods foodscontaining avoided:
offal Ali egg yolks, sweetbreads), kidneys, livers, (calves' and sheeps' (calves'
and sheeps' Iivers, kidneys, sweetbreads), egg yolks, cream cheese milk,cream
chocolate, milk, oysters, chocolate, margarine,oysters, butter,margarine, butter,
cheese Port-Salut, Dutch, Gruydre,Port-Salut, quantities of ofGruyère, (apartfrom
from small imallquantities (apart Dutch, potV', stews, sauc€s' charcuterie,pork,
sauces, stews, cheeses),charcuterie, milkcheeses), andskimmed skimmedmilk and fats
may be following the quantities of Small fried foods. fried foods. Small quantities
of the following fats may be oil,sunfiower sunflower saffron oil, oil,saffron
walnutoil, oil,walnut soyaoil, comoil, oil,soya eaten:corn eaten: from first
pressing' oilfrom oliveoil virginolive alsovirgin andalso grapeseedoil, oil,and
oil,grapeseed oil, first pressing.

clarified (4 oz., * sweetbreads sweetbreads in in 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., 1cup) cup)

smoking-hot, smoking-hot, clarified

an ox tail, cut into pieces, together with two calf (U.S. veal)

sweetbread yolk

,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,,

It

241 241
CHOPE CHOPE
Allowed. Grilld orroasted roasted red (inmoderation), redmeats meats(in
moderation), Allowed. Grilled or fish. fish. Recommended. Vegetables (French beans,
endive, spinach, Recommended. Vegetables (French beans, endive, spinach, celery,
leeks, beetroot, carrots, carrots, tomatoes, tomatoes,aubergines, aubergines, ail
all celery, leeks, beetroot, types of green salad vegetables, asparagus, sorrel,
onions, vegetables, asparagus, sorrel, onions, types of green salad artichokes,
melon, cucumber, radishes, potatoes), all kinds artichokes, melon, cucumber,
radishes, potatoes), ail kinds of fruit (but not walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and
almonds). of fruit (but not walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and almonds). CHOPE
Goblet of glass or earthenware, containing about ofglass CHOPE -- Goblet or
earthenware, containing about litre (12fl. oz.), used for beer. t] litre (12 ft.
oz.), used for beer.

CHOPINE- Old measure measureforwine, (lgft. equal to totIlitre fl.oz.). oz.).

CHOPINE- Old for wine, equal litre (18
CHOPPING. sr,cnlcr - French term for chopping food is CHOPPING. HACHAGE - French
term for chopping food is hachage or hachement. hachage or hachement. Hachage can
also mean food which has been chopped, as Hachage can also mean food which has been
chopped, as in onion hachage, though the more common word ii hachis. the more corn
mon word is hachis. in onion hachage, though Meat is chopped on a chopping block,
usually made of Meat is chopped on a chopping block, usually made of cross-grained
planks set upright in a wooden frame. The cross-grained planks set upright in a
wooden frame. The chopping blocks or tables must not be washed with water but
chopping blocks or tables must not be washed with water but scraped with a special
scraper, thoroughly dried with sawscraped with a special scraper, thoroughly dried
with sawdust, and then rubbed clean. dust, and then rubbed c1ean.
BABTNEs - Slang name for lips of some animals, 'CHOPS'. BABINES 'CHOPS'. - Slang
name for Iips of sorne animaIs, such as dogs or monkeys. The expression'to lick
one's chops' such as dogs or monkeys. The expression 'to lick one's chops'
indicates satisfaction at a good dish. indicates satisfaction at a good dish.

sq uo'ine'ho,Hlllil"lto bakin gIray trav Squeezing cbou paSle onlO baking

(Larousse)

CHOPSTICKS. BAGUETTES sacuerrEs -- The The 'fork' 'fork' of of the Far East, the
Far East, CHOPSTICKS. indispensable to an Asian meal, made in ivory, ebony, or
indispensable to an Asian meal, made in ivory, ebony, or plastic. The Chinese call
them 'lively fellows'. They are not plastic. The Chinese cali them 'Iively
fellows'. They are not difficult to to manipulate manipulate and and can can be be
adapted adapted to to the the requirerequiredifficult ments of various dishes. They
are used, for example, to pick ments of various dishes. They are used, for example,
to pick up pieces of food, also to push rice into the mouth whenever up pieces of
food, also to push rice into the mouth whenever it is permitted to raise the bowl
to chin level. it is permitted to raise the bowl to chin level.

CHORONChef de de cuisine cuisine of of the the Voisin Voisin restaurant.

restaurant. CHORON - Chef (Pastry) CHOU Bun made with chou which is is - Bun made
with chou pastry, CHOU (pastry) pastry, which pushed through a forcing (pastry) bag
onto a metal baking pushed through a forcing (pastry) bag onto a metal baking tray.
The chou, chou, which which is either served served as it is, is, or oi tray. The
is round, round, is is either as it stuffed some other stuffed with with cream
cream or or sorne other preparation. preparation. Chou Chou pastry pastry or or
cream cream puffpastry. puff pastry. pArs,\ PÂTE À cHou CHOU - Ordinary Ordinary
chou pastry is made as follows: chou pastry is made as follows: Ingredients.
Ingredients. I 1 litre litre (If, (1 i pints, pints, generous generous quart)
quart) water, water, 375 g. (13 oz., generous l{ cups) butter, 500 g. (lB oz., 4!
375 g. (13 oz., generous 11 cups) butter, 500 g. (18 oz., 41 cups) tabletablespoon
salt, salt, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz, oz., 2 2 tablecups) sifted sifted flour, ftour, I
1 tablespoon spoons) spoons) sugar, sugar, 16 16 eggs; eggs; I 1 tablespoon
tablespoon orange orange blossom blossom water water or or I 1 teaspoon teaspoon
orange orange extract. extract. Method. Method. Boil Boil the the water, water,
butter, butter, salt salt and and sugar sugar together together in in a deep flat-
bottomed ftat-bottomed pan. pan. When When the the mixture mixture boils, boils,
remove rem ove a deep pan from the heat and pour in the sifted flour. Mix well. the
the pan from the heat and pour in the sifted ftour. Mix weil. Dry Dry out out the
the mixture mixture over over a a low low heat, heat, working working it it with
with a a wooden wood en spoon spoon until until it it comes cornes away away from
from the the sides sides of of the the pan pan and and oils oils a a little.
little. Add Add the the eggs, eggs, off off the the heat, heat, two two at at a a
time, time, stirring stirring vigorously, vigorously, and and then then the the
flavouring. ftavouring. Various cakes such as Various cakes such as 6clairs,
éclairs, Jacob's Jacob's ladders. ladders, SaintSaintHonorC, are made made with
with this this pastry, pastry, as as are are Honoré, profiteroles, profiteroles,
are soufl6 soufflé fritters. fritters. Cooking Cooking the the choux choux or or
cream cream puffs. puffs. onEssAcE DRESSAGE Er ET curssoN CUISSON DEs cHor.x - Put
the mixture through a forcing-bag onto a DES CHOUX - Put the mixture through a
forcing-bag onto a buttered buttered baking baking tray, tray, allowing allowing a
a space space between between each. each. Make Make them them the the size size of
ofa a walnut walnut or or smaller smaller if ifthey they are are to to be be used
used as as profiteroles. profiteroles. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg.
egg. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen at at (400'F., 200"C. Gas Mark 6) for 15
200°C. (400°F., Gas Mark 6) for 15 minutes. minutes. When When cold, cold, these
buns are filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) these buns are filled with
French pastry cream (see CREAMS) or orwith withany anyother otherfilling, filling,
according accordingto to the therecipe. recipe. Chorx Chouxor orcream creampuffs
puffsiàla lac6venole. cévenole.cHoux CHOUXA Àra LAcfvrNorn CÉVENOLEThese are made
like Choux or ueen These are made like Choux or cream Wffs puffs d à la la udme
crème (see (see below). When below). Whencold, cold,fill fill with withaa pur6e
purée of ofchestnuts chestnutsmixed mixed with with whipped whipped cream cream and
and flavoured ftavoured with with kirsch. kirsch.
242 242

Choux or puffs ài la or cream cream puffs la ChantilJy. Chantilly. CHOUX cHorrx À A

LA Choux ra CHANcnaNrPrepare and and cook cook as as for for Choux Choux or or
cream puffs à cream puffs - Prepare ta d la (see below). crime (see below). Leave
Leave them them to to cool, cool, split split and crème and fill fill with with
(see CREA Chantilly cream cream (see CREAMS) flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla.
Chantilly MS) ftavoured Chocolate choux choux or or cream cream puffs. puffs. CHOUX
cnoux AU AU CHOCOLAT Chocolate cHocolAr -Prepared in in the the same same way way
as as Coffee Coffee choux choux or puffs or cream Prepared cream puffs (see below).
below). (see Coffee choux choux or or cream puffs. CHOUX cream puffs. cnoux AU lu
CAFÉ cmn -_ FiJI Coffee Fill the the cooked puffs puffs with with French pasty
cream French pastry (see CREAMS) cream (see cooked CREAMS) flavoured with with
coffee coffee essence. essence. Glaze Glaze with with sugar ftavoured sugar
ftavoured flavoured with coffee. coffee. with Choux or or cream puffs à cream puffs
la crème. A la crime. CHOUX cHoux À Choux A LA m CRÈME cntm -When the puffs are the
puffs are cold, cold, slit slit them them on on one one si side When de and and
fill fill with with French pastry (see CREA cream (see CREAMS). French pastry cream
MS). Close Close the puffs and the puffs and sprinkle with with icing sugar.
sprinkIe pufrs à i la Ia frangipane. frangipane. CHOUX Choux or cream puffs cHor.x
À A LA r,c, FRANGInnaNcrIANE The same same as as Choux Choux or or cream puffs à
PANE d la la crème, - The crime, with with Frangipane (see CREAMS). creom (see
Frangipane cream Glazed choux choux or or cream prffs. CHOUX cream puffs. cuoux
GLACÉS Glazed GLAcEs - Ordinary puffs cream or any other other filling, and and
glazed with puffs filled filled with with cream witir sugar cooked cooked to (see
SUGAR, crack degree degree (see SUGAR, Sugar sugar to the the crack boiling).
bOiling). Choux cream puffs Choux or or cream puffs Montmorency. Montmorency.
cHorlx CHOUX MoNTMoRENcy MONTMORENCY crime. Fill the puffs, - Made Made like like
Choux or cream puffs d à Ia la crème. when pastry iream when cold, cold, with with
a mixture mixture of of cherrie cherries Frenchpastry cream s and and French (see
(see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured ftavoured with with cherry brandy. Choux Choux or or
cream cream puffs puffs i à la la normande normande - cnoux CHOUX i À rl LA
NoRMANDB NORMANDE - Choux filled filled with with a a stiff apple apple pur6e purée
mixed with with a a third third of of its its weight of of French pastry pastry
ueam cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured fiavoured with with calvados.
calvados.
TILLY TILLY

Plate Plate of of cream cream puffs puffs

CHRISTMAS. CHRISTMAS. Ndnr NOEL - In ln the the fourth fourth century century Pope
Pope Julius Julius I1
was was to to be be celebrated. celebrated. In ln France, France, the the main main
Christmas Christmasmeal meal is is served served on on the the night night

fixed fixed 25 25 December December as as the the date date on on which which the
the birtl birth of of Christ Christ
CINNAMON
of24 24 to to 25 25 December, December, after after the the celebration celebration
of of Midnight Midnight of Mass.This Thismeal mealis iscalled called the
thereveillonreveil/on . Mass. Themenu menu for forthe thereveillon reveiflonand and
for forChristmas ChristmasDay Dayitself itself-The essentiallyaafamily family
celebration celebration-- must mustinclude includedishes dishes which which
essentially ri tuaisignificance. significance.Even Evenififthe thereveillon
reveiflonmenu menu includes includes haveaaritual have various expensivedelicacies
delicaciessuch suchas/oiegras, asfoie gras,truffies, truffies,game gameof ofvarious
expensive kinds,rare rarefish fishand andshellfish, shellfish,ititmust mustalso
alsoinclude, include,in indeference deference kinds, totradition, tradition, aa
black black or orwhite whitepudding, pudding, sometimes sometimes both, both, and
and to a goose goose or or turkey turkey with with chestnuts, chestnuts, often
often enriched enriched with with a truffies. truffies. In Britain, Britain,
Christmas Christmas Day Day is is celebrated ceJebrated with with even even more
more In gastronomic splendour splendour than than in in France. France .
gastronomic 'For many many of of the the islanders,' islanders,' wrote wrote Alfred
Alfred Suzanne Suzanne in in his his 'For book /a la Cuisine Cuisine anglaise
anglaise et et americaine, americaine, 'this 'this anniversary anniversary is is
book memorable (apart (apart from from all ail religious religious significance)
significance) because because it it memorable slaughter of of turkeys, turkeys,
geese geese and and all ail kinds kinds of of evokes u a great gr"ai slaughter
evokes game, a a wholesale wholesale massacre massacre of offat fat oxen, oxen,
pigs pigs and and sheep' sheep. They They game, envisage garlands garlands ofblack
of black puddings, puddings, sausages sausages and and saveloys saveloys Invisage
mountains of of plum-puddings plum-puddings and and ovens-full ovens-full of of
mincemince.. .. .. mountains pies . .. .. .. pies. that day day no-one no-one in in
England may may go hungry. hungry . '. '. '. This is is 'On that 'On family
gathering gathering and and on on every table table the the same menu menu is is a
family prepared . A A joint of of beef, a turkey turkey or goose' goose, which is
usually pr.pated. sausages, and a ham, de iesistance, résistance, accompanied
accompanied by bya ham, sausages, the pièce de ihe'piice and the game; then then
follow follow the the inevitable plum-pudding and game; mince pies.' famous mince

CINNA MON

Insect common to southern countries. CICADA. CICADA. cIGALE CIGALE - Insect common
to southern countries. cicadas

were very fond of According Accordingto to Aristotle, Aristotle, the theGreeks

Greeks were very fond of cicadas larvae. and their and their larvae. Fermented
drink with an apple base' It was CIDER. CIDER. cIDRE CIDRE- Fermented drink with an
apple base. It was in the thirteenth century already already being being made made
in in Normandy Normandy in the thirteenth century Charlemagne. Special and and is
is mentioned mentioned in in the the Chronicles Chronicles of of Charlemagne.
Special which have given a tart, and acid, sweet, are used, apples apples are used,
sweet, acid, and tart, which have given a where they grow. There districts of the
cider to the reputation reputation to the cider of the districts where they grow.
There is made with sweet aie are early early and and late late species. species. A
A good good cider cider is made with { t sweet ripening apples-are apples apples
and and $ J sour sour and and acid acid apples. apples. Early Early ripening apples
are rest should be the put put in in the the press press as as soon soon as as they
they are are ready; ready; the rest should be heaps at the foot oftrees. in not and
in attics, itored stored in attics, and not in heaps at the foot of trees. put in a
press. The marc The The apples apples are are crushed crushed and and put in a
press. The marc juice pressed out) is (what (what is is left left of of the the
fruit fruit after after the the juice has has been been pressed out) is sprinkled
sprinkled with with water water and and pressed pressed a a second second time.
time. way as with wine. Fermentation Fermentation is is started started in in the
the same same way as with wine. and the same same diseases Cider Cider is is
subject subject to to the the same diseases as as wine, wine, and the same remedies
remedies can can be be applied applied to to it. it.

of cider: sweet commercial brands There There are are different different
commercial brands of according to or not, sparkling or cider, sparkling cider and
cider and bottled bottled cider, not, according to fercomplete ferafter complete or
after bottled before has been been bottled whether whether it it has before or less
alcoholic and less drink and a refreshing refreshing drink is a It is cask. in cask
mentation mentation in . It alcoholic wine. than wine. than
cider:
sweet

Chub (J. Boyer) Boyer) Chnb(J.

long CHUB. with aa long fish with Freshwater fish cHEvEsNE -- Freshwater cI{EVAINE,
CHEVESNE CHUB. CHEVAINE, opening' spindly body, ventral opening. the ventral fin
set set below below the dorsal fin the dorsal body, the spindly nab, The , nab ,
coheven, in English, English, coheven called in chub, called The- common common
chub, bot/ing, , chabot, chavanne, chabot, chavanne, cabot, meunier, cabot in
French, French, meunier, and in botlW, and of size of tes/ard, reaches aa size
sometimes reaches etc.sometimes caboda,etc. rotisson, caboda, testai, rotisson, 50
(20 inches). inches). cm. (20 50 cm. and In blackfinand longjaw, black.fin as the
the longjaw, known as chubs, known In U.S.A. U.S.A. chubs, isthe the bloater,
LakeSuperior Superior is Lakes. Lake Great Lakes. in the theGreat are found found
in bloater, are source fin, which used chubused theonly onlychub isthe whichis
blackfin, of the the black most of of most source of extensively . fish. freshfish
asfresh extensivelyas Ali .v.) (a (afish to (q'v.) fishbelonging belongingto f6ra(g
for the theféra given for recipesgiven therecipes All the the also fishisisalso
Thisfish chub.This tochub. applicable to areapplicable famitil are salmon family)
the salmon used malelote (g .v.) . (q.v.). thematelote inthe used in

press for cider Applepress Apple for eider

CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. LUCHON- -See DELUCHON CIERPDE CIERP ina a mealin offa ameal
roundsoff Tobacco CIGARETTE CIGAR, CIGAR, CIGARETTE - -Tobacco rounds o^r even
beforeor it.Smoking Smokingbefore likeil. wholike forthose thosewho pleasant way
wayfor pleasant even taste' oftaste. senseof thesense destroysthe anddestroys
heresyand mealisisaaheresy themeal duringthe during altogether' glveup
smokingaltogether. upsmoking togive haveto tastershave Profeisionaltasters
Professional The tree' cinnamontree. thecinnamon ofthe Barkof ceNNulre- -Bark
CINNAMON.CANNELLE CINNAMON. The resemble whichresemble ofbark barkwhich kindsof
givento otherkinds toother alsogiven nameisisalso name speciesisis medicinalspecies
The only flavour. or insmell smell cinnamonin cinnamon or ftavour. The only
medicinal fgrm the shops the foundinin whichisis cinnatnonwhich Ceyloncinnamon the
the Ceylon found the shops inin the form m' to up and (1inch) diameter cm. about1 1
sticks,about thin of of thin sticks, cm. (t inch) inin diameter and up to 1I m.
each pieces of bark, rolled ofrolled consistingof yard) length,consisting (1(lyard)
inin length, pieces of bark, each easily colour, yellow (6inch) thick. inch; about
about i imm. thick. ItItisis yellow inin colour, easily --. (io hot sweet, fine,
very and aroma spicy witlia a breakable,with breakable, spicy aroma and aa very
fine, sweet, hot taste. taste. shorter, found (Cassia lignea) cinnamon The Chinese
The Chinese cinnamon (Cassin lignea) is is found inin shorter, yellowish bark,
rolledbark, layer of one of formed sticks, thicker thicker sticks, formed of one
layer of rolled yellowish easily spots, black few brown with colour, brown colour,
with aa few brown oror black spots, easily browninin taste' and aroma pleasant less
with but breakable but with aa less pleasant aroma and taste . breakable cinnamon
Powdered oil: volatile contains Cinnamoncontains Cinnamon aa volatile oil: Powdered
cinna mon is is adulterated' and quality bark inferior from made often made from
inferior quality bark and adulterated. often (with oils the essential dried
sometimes are sticks Cinnamon sticks are sometimes dried (with the essential oils
cinnamon practice fraudulent such but sold, being before extracted) before being
sold, but such fraudulent practice is is extracted) rare. rare.

CHUTNEY made whichisismade origin which Indianorigin ofIndian Condimentof CHUTNEY-

- Condiment garlic, comrriercially. raisins,garlic, seededraisins, withseeded
pur6emade madewith Itisisaapurée commercially. Il shallots,pimentos, and vinegar.
vinegar' and sugar mustard,brown brownsugar apple,mustard, shallots,
pimentos,apple, Bring t pints, tothe th9 vinegarto quart)white whitevinegar
generousquart) pints,generous litre(1(l* Bring1ilitre boil. sliced. sliced' and
peeledand apples,peeled (3+lb.) lb.)cooking cookingapples, ke.(3{ AddIt boil.Add
Ukg. Cook (18 oz., brown sugar, brownsugar, 2|cups) cups) oz',2t 500g.g'(18 add500
andadd themand Cookthem 25 (7 oz., (7 ll oz',li 200g.g. chillis,200 choppedchillis,
finelychopped oz.,t Icup) cup)finely 25g.e.(10oz., cups) g.g. (18 oz., 33 cups)
chopped, (18 finelychopped, cups)finely oz., 500 iaisins,500 seededraisins,
cups)seeded preserved g.g. (18 oz., 2 cups) diced preserved dicedpreserved (18
cups) o2.,2 peel,500 500 preservedlemon lemonpeel, teaspoons ginger, cru shed
garlic c1oves. 44 salt, teaspoonssalt, with Seasonwith garlic cloves.Season
grnger,2 2 crushed 125 g. (4(4 oz., 1t cup) mustard grains, and 15 g.g.
(toz.,2table' (toz., 2 table15 grains, and mustard cup) oz., 7Z{e. spoons)
IfIfpossible, add 500 g.g. (18 oz.) (18 oz') 500 add possible, ginger.
powderedginger. spoons)powdered preserved mangoes. Cook for 88 minutes. Put into
warm glass glass warm into Put minutes. for Cook pi"seru"d mangoes. jars while hot,
and seal. jars and seal. hot, while Ordinary with rubber rings and screw caps caps
screw jars rings and rubber with bottlingjars Ordinarybottling are best. are best.

243 243
CINNAMONE

CINNAMONE
CITRON.CÉDRAT cfDRAr- -Species Speciesof lemonwith oflemon witha avery verythick
thick CITRON. coruscated skin,cultivated cultivatedon on the Mediterraneancoast.
coast. coruscated skin, the Mediterranean perfumedand, highlyperfumed and,unlike
unlikethe the ordinarylemon lemon or ltItisishighly ordinary or orange,isis
seldomeaten eatenin ina anatural naturalstate. state.Because Becauseof its orange,
seldom ofits thickskin skinititisischiefly preserved,and chieflypreserved, andisis
muchused usedin in cakethick much cakemakingand andconfectionery. confectionery.
making InCor Corsica, where1titisiswidely widelycultivated, cultivated,a a
liqueurca sica, where liqueur lied ln called cidratine isismade madewith withthe
thefruit. fruit. cédratine CITRONELLA. CITRONELLE cnnoNsr,r.s- -Common Commonname
name forCollinCollinCITRONELLA. for soniacanadensis, canadensiJ, aacoarse
plantofthe coarseplant of themint mintfamily. family.ItItexudes sonia exudes
penetratingscent, scent,rather ratherlike likelemon. lemon.The Theleaves leavesare
areused usedfor for aapenetrating seasoning. Digestive Digestive liqueurs
liqueursare aremade fromits madefrom itsflowers. seasoning. flowers.

CITRUS AURANTIUM AURANTIUM (Seville (Sevilleorange). orange).BIGARADIER,

BTcARADTER, CITRUS stclnlos - -Species Speciesof bitterorange ofbitter orangeused
inconfectionery usedin confectioneryand arid BIGARADE indistilling
distillingcertain certainliqueurs liqueursand anddrinks. drinks. It Itisisused
usedin incookery cookery in for spicing spicing various various sauees game, in
saucesfor particularfor for game, in particular foi for waterfowl, and andalso
forma alsofor making bitter orange orange marmalade. marmalade. waterfowl, king
bitter green leaves Thegreen principally used leavesare areprincipally (see usedas
asan aninfusion infusion(see The TTSANE). TISANE). The flowers, flowers, or or
orange orange blossoms, blossoms, are are used inconfectionery, confectionery,
usedin The pharmaceutics and perfumery (distilled and perfumery (distilled orange
orange blossom pharmaceutics blossom water, essenceofneroli). essenc€ of neroli).
water,
CITRUS FRUIT. FRUIT. AGRUMES AGRUMEs - - Collective Collective noun noun for CITRUS
for oranges, oranges, lemons, tangerines, grapefruit and tangerines, grapefruit and
other cultivated Rutaceae. other cultivated lemons, Rutaciae.
trees Cinnamon trees

Cinnamon

CITRUS MEDICA MEDICA -- See See AIGRE AIGRE DE DE CÈDRE. CEDRE. CITRUS

cinnamon (cannelle). cinnamon (cannelle). CISELER - French term for superficial

incisions on the back CISELER French term for superficial incisions on the back of
a fish to hasten its cooking. Also applied to the slicing of of a fish to hasten
its cooking. Also applied to the slicing of any kind of leafy herb which is to be
cut up into jutinne any kind of leafy herb which is to be cut up into julienne
(q.v.) strips or into a chffinnade (q.v.). (q.v.) strips or into a chiffonnade
(q.v.). CITRIC ACID. CITRIQUE crrRreuE Organic acid acid found found in great in a
a great - Organic CITRIC ACID. many fruits (lemons, oranges, gooseberries,
gooseberries, raspberries, raspbeiries, many fruits (lemons, oranges, etc.) and
some other plants. It is extracted from lembn juice; etc.) and sorne other plants.
It is extracted from lemon juice, or it is prepared commercially by fermentatio-n
of glucose. Ii or it is prepared commercially by fermentation of glucose. It
appears in large fragile crystals, with an'agreJable appears in large fragile
crystals, with an ·agreeable acid flavour, dry, but and is is soluble soluble in in
water. water. It It keeps keeps well weil when when dry, flavour, and solutions of
citric acid are rapidly invaded by moulds. solutions of citric acid are rapidly
invaded by mou Ids. Citric is used used for for making making lemonade lemonade ind
and also also orange orange Ci tric acid acid is and and lemon lem on syrups,
syrups, etc. etc. Citric Citric acid acid syrup syrup - See See SYRUp. SYRUP.

Old name name for for a a spice spice which which is probably is probably - Old
CINNAMONE -

CINNAMONE

CMT-Word mainly used used for forragodls game, which CIVET - Word mainly
ragoûtsoffurred of furred game, which are moistened moistened with with red red
wine, wine, garnished garnished with are with small small onions, onions, lardoons
and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and and combined, combined, when lardoons when
cooked, cooked, with the the blood blood of of the the animal animal in question.
This in question. with This liaison liaison with with blood is is essential
essential to to the the dish. dish. blood The name preparation cornes name of of
this this preparation The comes from from the the word word cive cive (green onion)
onion) because because the the dish dish was was flavoured (green flavoured with
with these these onions. It can can be be made made with with any any furred furred
game, game, and It and also also with with feathered or fowl. fowl. There There are
feathered game or are even civets de even civets fu viandes viandes in in some
districts, and and spiny lobster civets sorne civets in in Languedoc. Languedoc.
Civet ofhare of hsre Civet - See HARE. Civet of spioy spiny lobster lobster See
SPINY Civet of SpINy LOBSTER, LOBSTER, Spiny Spdny - See . lobster stew. /obster
CLAFOUTI Fruit pastry or thick fruit pancake CLAFOUTI - Fruit pancake from the
Limousin, Limousin, usually made with black cherries. cherries. 125 g. generous
cup) oz., generous g. (4+ (4t oz., Ingredients. 125 cup) flour, flour, 2 2 eggs,
eggs, - -Ingredients. 100 100 g. g. q (4 oz., scant cup) cup) powdered sugar,
haliof half ofwhich which is kept kep; to sprinkle sprinkle over over the fruit,
fruit, 2 dl. (| (t pint, scant cup) boiled mili<, milk, a pinch pinch of of salt,
and 400 g. g. (14 oz.) cherries. Fill the pastry cherries. Fitt with bake in a
buttered flan cise case in with the the stoned cherries, and bake the the oven.
oven.
CLAIRE CLAIRE - Name Name of of the the marine marine enclosures enclosures in the
Marennes region region where where the the oysters oysters are are left left to to
go go green. green. (See (See OySTER, OYSTER, Green oysters\. Green Marennes
Marennes oysters).
wine. wine. It It was was well weil known known at at the the time time of of
Charlemagne, Charlemagne, and and was was called called vin vinpiment, piment, or
or simplypan simply piment. In this this form form it it was was drunk drunk ent.In
as as an an ap6ritif, apéritif, made made in in the the same same way way that that
vermouth vermouth and and other other mixed mixed wines wines are are made made
now. now. This This wine wine was was not not the the same same as as vin vin
clairet, clairet, which which was was a a natural, natural, raw raw wine, wine,
neither neither red red nor nor white, white, a,grey a 'grey wine' wine' as as it
it would wou Id be be callod called today. today. It It was was of ofvin vin
clairel clairet that that poets poets sang sang in in the the eighteenth eighteenth
century. eentury. Le Le Grand Grand d'Aussy d'Aussy says says of of the the other
other clairet:,something clairet: 'Something had leen been lacking lacking at at a
a feast feast If ifpiment piment had had not not been been served'; served'; !a!
this this being being the the name name given given to to the the wine wine in in
the the thirteenth thirteenth

CLNRET CLAIRET - Formerly, Formerly, clairet clairet was a a spiced spieed and and
flavoured flavoured

Citron

24 244
CLOVE CLOVE
century. century. Clairet Clairet or or piment piment was was made made in in the
the religious religious houses. houses. He He also also says says the the pouillis
pouillis (statements (statements of of ecclesiastical ecclesiastical profits
profits in prove that that in in the the twelfth twelfth and and fourteenth
fourteenth in a province), province), prove centuries the the priors priors of the
the deanery of of Chflteaufort, Châteaufort, on on the the Feast Feast of of the
the Assumption, Assumption, were were each each in in turn turn required required
to to provide provide piment piment for for the the chauvines chauvines (nuns (nuns
or or postulants). postulants). This This apgritif apéritif was was made made only
only with with vin vin clairet. clairet. Il had had several several shadcs: grey,
straw coloured, eoloured, 'partridge-eye', 'partridge-eye', etc. etc. different
shades: Current legislation Jegislation of of appellations appellations d'origine
d'origine authorises authorises the the Current use of the the word word clairet
clairet in in Bordeaux Bordeaux and and Burgundy; Burgundy; Bordeaux Bordeaux use
of clairet, Bordeaux Bordeaux sup6rieur supérieur clairet, clairet, Bourgogne
Bourgogne clairet. clairet. clairet, The expression expression clairet clairet
designates designates a pale pale red, light-bodied light-bodied wine, wine, not
nOI quite quite a ros6. rosé. It lt should be be drunk drunk young young and
slightly chilled. chilled.

It

CLAIRETI'E - Name Name given to a sparkling sparkling white white wine made made
CLAIRETTEin Dr6me, Drôme, where where it is called Clairette Clairette de Die. Also
Also the name name of a white white grape grape grown in the Mediterranean
Mediterranean regions. regions. of CLARET - Name given given in England to red
Bordeaux Bordeaux wines. wines. CLARET

CLEMENTINE. CLEMENTINE. crfirarNrlNE CLÉMENTIl\'E - Fruit Fruit of ofthe the

clementine clementine tree, tree, a of unknown unknown origin origin discovered
discovered at at the the beginning beginning of of a hybrid hybrid of the the
twentieth Iwentielh century. century. It Il seems seems to 10 be he closely closely
related related to 10 the the mandarin mandarin tree. tree. The The clementine is
is a a small, small, round, round, orange-coloured orange-coloured fruit, fruit,
flattened both ends. ends. The The flesh flesh is is sweet, sweet, juicy juicy and
and modermoderflattened at both ately ately acid. acid. The The true true
clementine clementine is is seedless. seedless. Recently Recenlly the the Montreal
Montreal clementine, clementine, an an earlier earlier and and more more prolific
prolific variety variety containing containing about about twenty twenly seeds,
seeds, has has been been developed. developed. The is cultivated cultivated in in
North North Africa Africa and and Spain, Spain, The clementine is and and is is
rharketed marketed between between the the middle middle of of October October and
and the the end end of of January. January. Its Its development development has has
been been detrimental detrimental to to that that of of the the mandarin mandarin
(tangerine), (tangerine), as as clementines clementines have have a a more more
delicate delicate flavour are often seedless. seedless. flavour and are It Il is
usually usually eaten caten as as a a fresh fresh fruit. fruit.

CLIMAT CLIMAT - Certain Certain vineyards, vineyards, especially especially in in

the the Cdte Côte de de Nuits Nuits district, district, are are so so called called
because because each each has has a a specific specifie
climate. c1imate.

CLISSECLISSE - Small Small tray tray or or mat, mat, made made of of wicker wieker
or or rush, rush, used used to to
drain drain cheeses. Also Also a a wicker wicker covering covering round round a a
bottle. boille.
CLAM. CLAM_ pALouRDE PALOURDE - Name Name for for many edible edible bivalve
bivalve molluscs molluscs low tide. which live in slimy slimy sand and are found at
atlow tide. Some these molluscs are are cultivated in in special special beds beds
Sorne of these of Bourgalong the beaches beaches of of Auray, Auray, Croisic
Croisic and in the Bay Bay of Bourgof neuf. Auray and and Roscoff Roscoff are the
principal French centres of the clam trade. t rade. coast the name In many of the
places along the Atlantic Atlantic coast na me TapC à stries palourde is d stries
applied to other molluscs is also also applied 10 olher molluscs Tapé sties fines,
croisCes, tapé tapi virginal, and tapC croisées. virginal, and lapé d à slries
fines, are are called palourdou in these molluscs are in La La Rochelle. In In
Provence Provence these clovisses. ca lied clovisses. called in France They are are
mainly eaten raw They mainly eaten raw in France but but the the North North it in
this shellfish, prepare il Americans, who who are very fond fond of Ihis many ways.
and other for clovisses, clovisses, oysters, mussels and All Ali recipes given for
shelltisn be applied to them. shellfish can be SOUP. chowderClam chowdcr Oam - See
SOUP.
liquids. The of food, usually Clarifying of CL ARIFICATION CLARIFICATION usually
liquids. - Clarifying process varies for for different substances. proeess
BOUILLON. See BOUILLON. Clarlfication of bouillon. Sec Clarification DU BEURRE
BEURRE cLARIFIcATIoN butter. CLARlFICA Clarification of butter. Clarification TlON
DU - Heat gentle heat; heat; the butter butter melts and appears the butter a very
genlle butter on ona on the forms on while a a white white deposit deposit forms
oil while as olive as c1ear clear as olive oil as into anolher another pan. Strain
clear butter butter into Strain the the clear bottom of of the the pan. bottom
receptacle. DEs cLARIFIcATIoN fruit juices. liquids and and fruit of Ilquids
Clarification of Oariflcation TION DES idces. CLARIFlCA liquids can can be Most
liquids DE FRUITS FRUtrs -- Most ET DES DEs SUCS sucs DE LreurDEs ET LIQUIDES
juices are ferlight ferare clarified clarified by by lighl fruit juices clarified
by by filtering; filtering; fruit clarified mentation. See SUGAR. of
sugarClarification - Sec Clarification ofsugar
sclarea Salvia sclarea name of of the the Salvia Common name oRvALE - Common CLARY.
CLARY. ORVALE for in England England for (herb of used in formerly used family)
formerly the sage sage family) (herb of the it has has a a in wine wine it
pastries. When infused infused in tries. When Ilavouring certain pas flavouring
certain Italian in making making Italian used in of the the herbs herbs used It is
is one one of muscat taste. taste. It muscat vermouth. vermouth.
BARBE-DEMUSHROOM. BARBE-DEor CLUB-TOP CLUB-TOP MUSHROOM. CLAVARIA or CLAVARIA
spindle-shaped mushroom Capless, spindle-shaped CHÈVRE, cHivRE, CLAVAIRE cLAVAIRE
-- Capless, pink white, pink grows into various colours, colours, white, of various
into branches branches of which grows which rather and rather indigestible and
tough, indigestible purple. Il but tough, It is is edible edible but or purple. or
insipid. insipid. in oil oil saut6ed in prepared like like other mushrooms: sautéed
other mushrooms: It can can he be prepared It crhme, etc. etc. provengale; à it la
Ia crème, or or butter; butter; à d la la provençale;

CLOCIIE CLOCHE - Silver or plated plated cover coyer for for keeping keeping dishes
dishes warm; warm; also a glass also a glass cover coyer under under which which
cheese cheese is is kept, kept, or or a a glass glass
utensil used during cooking cooking (see (see MUSHROOMS, MUSHROOMS, used as as a a
cover coyer during sous cloche\. Mushrooms sous cloche).

(JeanJoseph) CLOSE CLOSE (Jean-Joseph) - Famous Famous pastry-cook pastry-cook born

born in in said to Normandy, Normandy, said to have have invented invenled the the
pdtC pâlé de de foie foie gras gras aux truffes 1782, when he truffes in in 1782,
he was was in in service with with the the mar€chal marèchal governor of of the
Contades, governor the province province of of Alsaoe Alsace at at the the time.
time. de Contades, gras were terrine de However, the pdti pâté and the terrine de
foie gras were known known in in Close' It France before of France the the south-
west of before the the time time of of Close. It is is and perdish in in Alsace,
possible that that Close popularised popularised the the dish Alsace, and
perperfected it. it. haps perfected baps
de Nuits of the C6te de vineyard of Famous vineyard VOUGEOTCLOS VOUGEOT - Famous
the Côte Nuits to (situated in has the Vougeot) which of Vougeot) the commune
commune of in Ihe (situated which has the right right to (see BURGUNDY). Apart a
special special appellation contrôlée BURGUNDY). Aparl contrdlCe (see a fact that
from its its wines, for the the wines, Clos Clos Vougeot Vougeot is is famous
famous for the fact from that the of chiteau in in the middle vineyards is is the
the headquarters headquarters of of the vineyards château middle of (see CONFRÉRIES
VINEUSES). the Confrérie ConfrCrie du tastevin (see CONFRERIES VINEUSES). du
laSlevin the Pinot; the the grape of wines is is the the Pinot; Vougeot wines of
the the Clos Clos Vougeot The grape The geologiThe geologicommune. The remainder of
of the the commune. the remainder Gamay serves the determinant are determinant
subsoil are and subsoil soil and composition of of the the soil cal composition cal
produced. particular flavour wine produced. of the the wine flavour of factors in
in the the particular factors great importance importance to to which which
gourmets attach attach great and gourmets Oenologists and fact il it is is the the
and rightly rightly 50. so. In In fact from, and a wine wine cornes comes from,
vineyard a year and determine that determine the soil soil that vine, the and the
the microdimate, microclimate, the the year vine, personality of a wine. the
personality of a wine. the

for cloth filter filter for woollen cloth White woollen BLANcHET -- White FfLTER.
BLANCHET CLOTH FlLTER. CLOrn liquids' and thick thick liquids. syrup and straining
syrup straining
is used used of of This term term is To become cloudy. This become c1oudy. LoucHIR
-- To CLOUD. LOUCHIR CLOUD. longer c1ear. clear. is no no longer a liquid liquid
which which is a

of the the (To stud) consisting of An operation operation consisling stud) -- An

CLOUTER (To CLOUTER and scarlet scarlet ham, and pieces of cooked ham, of trumes,
truffies, cooked insertion of of small small pieces insertion game. fowl, game.
into meal, meat, fowl, tongue inlO tongue and anchovy and fillets of of anchovy
with trumes, truffies, fillets are studded Fish are studded with Fish gherkins.
gherkins.
(cLou DE) tree clove tree of the the c10ve or) -- Flowers Flowers of crRoFLE (CLOU
CLOVE. GIROFLE CLOVE, probably cornes comes The tree tree probably in the the sun.
sun. The picked in dried in in bud and dried bud and pieked in the the first
cultivated cultivated in was tirst but was from China, China, but originally from
originally It was was monopoly. It had the the monopoly. Dutch, who who had the
Dutch, Moluccas by by the Moluccas Governor Mauritius by by Governor and Mauritius
R6union and into Réunion introduced into introduced and ZanziZanziIndies, Cayenne
Cayenne and West Indies, the West into the and later later into Poivre, and Poivre,
bar. bar. sepals. four sepals. a calyx calyx with with four and a stem and a four-
sided four-sided stem have a Cloves have Cloves
245 245

fattened. are fattened. oysters are Bed where where oysters CLAYDRE CLA YÈRE -- Bed
certain on which which certain of rush rush orstraw or straw on mat of CLAYON --
Small Small mat CLAYON given 10 placed. The is given to small small wire wire
trays. trays. same name name is The same foods are are placed. foods
CLOVISSE CLOVISSE
They have have an an aromatic aromatic scent scent and and a a hot hot spicy spicy
flavour, flavour, and and They are used used for for seasoning seasoning in in
cookery. cookery. They They are are sometimes sometimes sold sold are mixed with
cloves cloves which which have have already already been been used in the the
manumanuused in mixedwith facture of of dyes dyes or liqueurs. The or liqueurs. The
clove clove matrix matrix or or fruits fruits of of the the facture clove tree tree
are are also also sold sold as as cloves. cloves. clove The clove clove is is an an
excellent excellent condiment condiment and powerful and a a powerful The
antiseptic. antiseptic.
(Spanish cookery) COCIDO (Spanish cookery) -- Popular Popular Spanish Spanish soup,
soup, also also COCIDO known under (q.v.). under the name of podridn (g.v.). the
name of Olla Olla podrida known

COCK-A-LEEKIE or (Scottish cookery) or COCKY COCKY-LEEKY cookery) -COCK-A-LEEKlE

-LEEKY (Scottisb Soup made made of (See SOUP.) of cock cock and and leeks. leeks.
(See SOUP.) Soup COCKLE. BUCARDE BUcARDE -- European European marine marine bivalve
bivalve mollusc mollusc of of COCKLE. genus Cardium, the genus Cardium, found found
mainly mainly at at the mouth of the mouth of rivers. rivers. The The the type
found found on on the the Atlantic Atlantic coast coast of of France, France,
called called bucarde bucarde type sourdon, is is edible. edible. It It is is also
also known known in in France France under under the names the names sourdon, poor
man's of coque, coque, sourdon sourdon and and poor man's oyster. oyster. of
Cockles are are eaten raw and and can prepared like eaten raw can also also be be
prepared like Cockles (q.v.). mussels (g.v.). mussels COCK'S COMB. COMB. CRÊTE
cRgTE DE DE COQ coe -- Fleshy Fleshy excrescence, excrescence, often often COCK'S
voluminous, found found on on the the heads heads of galliof cocks cocks and and
other other gallivoluminous, naceans. It It is is used garnish for chiefly as used
chiefly as a a garnish for entrées. entries. naceans. Method of of cleaning
cleaning and and cooking cooking cocks' cocks' combs. combs. Prick Prick the the
Method combs lightly lightly witha with a needle needle and put them and put them
under under the cold tap, tap, the cold combs pressing them them with with the the
fingers fingers to to dispel dispel the the blood. pressing Cover with with cold
cold water water and and cook cook until until the the water water reaches reaches
a a Cover (l l0'F.), when 40' or of 40° or 45°C. 45'C. (110°F.), when the the skin
skin of of the the temperature of combs begins to to detach itself. itself. Drain
Drain the the combs combs and and rub rub them them combs one by by one one in in a
a cloth sprinkled sprinkled with with fine fine salt. salt. one put the combs
Remove the the outer skin; put combs in in cold cold water, water, and Remove when
they plunge them they are are white white plunge them into into a a boiling boiling
White White when (see COURT-BOUILLON). court-bouillon (see COURT-BOUILLON). Cook
Cook for for 35 court-bouillon minutes. minutes. Attelets of of cocks' cocks'
combs. ATTELETs combs. A oE CRÊTES cREtss DE DE COQ coe -Attelets TTELETS DE Cook
the the cocks' cocks' combs, combs, keeping keeping them possible them as as white
white as as possible Cook and rather rather firm. firm. Drain Drain and and wipe
wipe them, and thread them, and thread on and frilled edge the frilled edge
uppermost. skewers, the Cocks'combs cnf;rns DE COQ coe EN EN A ATTEREAT.Tx Cocks'
combs en attereaux. CRÊTES TTEREAUXCook the the cocks' combs in the combs in the
manner described described above and Cook leave to cool. Drain, wipe, and marinate
them in in oil oil and leave to cool. Drain, wipe, and marinate them lemon juice.
lemon juice. Add Add chopped parsley. parsley. Drain, and impale them three at a a
time on silver skewers. Drain, and Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in clarified
butter. Dip butter. Cocks'combs i la Villeroi. CRÊTES cnsrrs DE COQ coe EN Cocks'
combs en atterearx attereaux à ,c,rrEREaux cocks' combs in a ATTEREAUX A À LA LA
vrLLERor VILLEROI a White - Cook the cocks' (see COURT-BOUILLON), court-bouillon
COURT-BOUILLON), drain court-bouillon (see drain and and dry them, Villeroi sauce
(se, them, and cover with with Villeroi (see SAUCE). Leave Leave to cool cool on'a
on' a gnd. grid. Cover Co ver the the combs with egg, egg, sprinkle with
breadcrumbs, in clarified breadcrumbs, and fry in clarified butter. Cocks' Cocks'
combs combs barquettes barquettes and and tartlets. tartlets. BAReuETTES BARQUETTES
ET ET TARTELETTES sa me TARTELETTES DE DE cRBrEs CRÊTES DE DE coe COQ - These are
made in the same way barquettes and and tartlets filled filled with various various
salpicon salpicon way as as barquettes preparations. s-d' cuvr e.\ preparations.
(See (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot hor hors-d'œuvre.) Salpicon Salpicon of
of cocks' combs i à blanc. blanc. sAI,prcoN SALPICON oE DE cn6rss CRÊTES op DE coe
À BLANc BLANC - Cook the the cocks' cocks' combs combs in in the the manner manner
COQ A described described above, above, and dice dice them. them. Heat for a few
moments in wine oons Velouti or liqueur. ligueur. Add Add a a few few tablesp
tablespoons Velouté sauce sauce or or wine or Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE). This This salpicon salpicon is is used as a filling filling for
boucheds, boucheés, barquettes, barquettes, tartlets, tartlets, or or other other
similar similar preparations. preparations. Salpicon Salpicon of of cocks' combs
combs i à brun. brun. sAlprcoN SALPICON os DE cRETES CRÊTES oE DE coQ COQ A À BRUN
BRUN - Prepared Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Salpicon Salpicon of
ofcocks' cocks' combs à blanc, blanc, but but replace replace the the white white
sauce sauce with with a a concenconcencombs d trated, trated, thickened thickened
brown brown stock, stock, to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been been added
added before before boiling boiling down. down. Strffed Stuffed cockst cocks' combs
combs. cnErns C1Û:TES DE DE coe COQ r,arncres FARCIES - Choose Choose very very
large combs and and cook cook them them n in White White court-bouillon court-
bouillon (see (see large combs COURT-BOUILLOFQ, COURT-BOUILLON), keeping keeping
them them rather rather firm. firm, Leave Leave to to cool, cool, drain drain and
and wipe wipe them, them, and and slit slit them them down down the the centre
centre of of the the fattest fattest part. part. Stuff Stuff each each with with a
a small small ball bail of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Cover the the combs combs
n in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Dip Dip in in egg,
egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and fry fry in in
clarified clarified butter. butter.
(usually) alcoholic COCKTAIL COCKTAIL-- Drink Drink of of(usually) aJcoholic liquor
liguor mixed mixed with with other other liquid liguid and and aromatic aromatic
ingredients, ingredients, stirred stirred or or shaken shaken with with
246 246

CLOVISSE -- Bivalve Bivalve mollusc mollusc which which is is like pa lourde ; it

like the the palourde; it is is CLOVISSE eaten fresh fresh like like oysters
oysters or or cooked cooked like like mussels, mussels, and is served and is served
eaten with or without lemon. or without lemon. with CLUPEIDAE. CLUPES cLUpEs --
Family Family of of seawater seawater and freshwater and freshwater CLUPEIDAE. fish
which which include include shad, shad, herring, herring, sardine sardine and and
anchovy. anchovy. fish CNICAUT -- Edible Edible wild wild cardoon, cardoon, with
with a a taste taste of of cabbage. cabbage. CNICAUT COAGULATE. FIGER rrcnnTo
thicken thicken or or congeal, congeal, when applied when applied COAGULATE. - To
to fats. fats. to

COAL FISH. FISH. CHARBONNIER cHARBoNNTSR -- A A kind kind of of cod cod fished
fished in in the COAL (see COD). North Sea. Sea. Prepared Prepared like like cod
cod (see COD). North pLAr -- Ring (nonouru) DE COASTER. GALERIE cALERTE (BORDURE)
DE PLAT Ring of of silver silver or or COASTER. silver-plate made made to to fit
fit the the inner inner diameter diameter of of round round dishes. dishes. silver-
plate This omamental ornamental circle circle is is set set in in the the weil well
of the dish dish to of the to hold hold in in This position the garnishes arranged
the garnishes arranged round round the the main main course. course. position
COAT. ENROBER ENRoBER To dip dip food food either either in in batter batter or or
in in a a sauce sauce - To COAT. which masks masks it it entirely, entirely, such
such as as chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce. sauce. which

Coca: Coca: a. Flower; a. Flower; b. b. Fruit Fruit

COCA COCA - Peruvian Peruvian shrub, shrub, the the leaves leaves of of which which
are are chewed chewed by by the the Indians. Indians. Considered Considered an an
economical economical food, food, its its properties properties are are due due to
to the the effect effect produced produced by by its its alkaloid, alkaloid,
cocaine, cocaine, which which is is as as stimulating stimulating as as tea tea or
or coffee. coffee. It It is is used used as as an an infusion, infusion, as as a a
wine, wine, as as an an elixir, elixir, and and also also used used as as an an
ingredient ingredient of of certain certain cakes. cakes. COCHINEAL. COCHINEAL.
cocsrNrr.I-E COCHENILLE - Insect Insect used used to to prepare prepare a a red red
dye dye called called carmine. carmine. The The best-known best-known cochinial
cochineal ls is that that of of nopal nopal (cochineal (cochineal cactus). cactus).
The female insect is The female insect is used, used, collected collected after
after she she is is fertilised fertilised and and before before the the complete
complete development development of of the the eggs. eggs. Gray Gray cochineals
cochineals are are the the most most sought sought after, after, but but there
there are are also also red red and and black black varieties. varieties. They They
are are put put in in the the oven oven on on metal metal sheets sheets for for a a
few few moments, moments, or or plunged plunged into into boiling boiling water,
water, and and dried. dried. Carmine Carmine is is used used for for colouring
colouring in in cooking cooking and and cake-mixing. cake-mixing.

COCHLEARIA. COCHLEARlA. cocnrflnrl COCHLÉARIA - Type Type of of cruciferous

cruciferous plant, plant, of of which which one one species, species, the the wild
wild lorseradish horseradish (Cochliaria (Cochléaria de de
United United States. States.

Bretagne) particularly in Bretagne) grows grows on on the the sea sea coast,
coast:particularly in Brittany, Brittany, in in England England and and in in
lreland. Ireland. It It is is known known as as scurvy-grass scurvy-grass in in the
the
COCKTAIL COCKTAIL

Cocktail
acc€ssories accessories

(Christofle) ( Christofie)

Co cktail hr i s t ofle. Cock tail set (C (Christofie.

'Manhattar,'. Phot. 'Manhallan'. Kollar'l Kollar)

glasses. The origin of the ice ice and and served ice-cold in special glasses.
Probably Anglo-American, it word 'cocktail' 'cocktail' is is uncertain. Probably
which results might might refer refer to the shimmering which results from from
mixing mixing to the coloured liqueurs, coloured liqueurs, or, to sorne or,
according according to some etymologists, cocktail of the because the the primitive
cocktail the Manhattan pioneers pioneers consisted of of cocks' tails, dipped in a
concoction concoction of consisted of pimentos, drink.. with which they tickled
their throats throats to incite them to drink coquetel The French French origin
origin of of the word coque lei is, however, however. told by a who main in
Bordeaux, maintain number of authors, who tain that it was in towards the end of
the eighteenth century, that this kind of drink was invented. invented. The
cocktail cocktail party is a of the The party is twentieth a phenomenon of the
twentieth gatherings. ail or large gatherings. century, and is used for
entertaining entertaining sm small On such an occasion more kinds of occasion one
or more of cocktails are served well as as'straight'liquor, as weil 'straight'
liquor, usually Scotch, Irish, Bourbon Bourbon or ('on the rocks') rocks') or with
rye whisky, whisky, poured over ice ice cubes ('on glasses; or mixed crushed ice
('in a mist'), mist'), and served in short glasses; with water or carbonated water
and served in long 'highball' glasses. Accompanying Accompanying these drinks are
are hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre that that these drinks range from from the can can be
eaten while while holding the glass. These range simple to the elaborate. great
many have been There are many cocktails which have been in There cocktails which
are a a great vogue vogue from from time to time, time, either because of of their
their exotic time to either because nature or names, but nature or because of their
their fantastic fantastic names, but certain because of win the mixtures have stood
the test of time and continue to win approval of connoisseurs. connoisseurs. These
include the the following: (Scotch, rye, rye, or Dry Manhattan (Bronx) @ronx) - 3
parts whisky (Scotch. Bourbon), 1 I part dry dry French vermouth. vermouth.
Garnish: Bourbon), Garnish: twist twist of lemon peel. (Dubonnet c9cktaiJ) Dubonnet
(Dubonnet cocktail) Dubonnet Gin and Dubonnet - 2 parts Dubonnet I part gin, gin,
combined with cracked and 1 ice, shaken hard in in a and cracked ice, cocktail
shaker and and strained strained into cocktail glasses. (Scotch, rye rye or or
Bourbon), Bourbon), 1 I Manhattan 3 parts whisky (Scotch, -3 part sweet Italian
vermouth and partsweet Italian vermouth and a a dash dash of of Angostura Angostura
bitters. Garnish (optional): a a maraschino cherry. bitters. parts gin, gin, 1
Martini (gin and vermouth)I part dry French Martini - 3 parts ad vermouth)
garnished with an peel or a vermouth, garnished an olive, a a twist of lemon peel
pearl on (in which pearl ion (in which case case the the drink drink is is called
called a a Gibson) onion Gibson).. Proportions may vary; sorne Proportions some
people prefer a straight straight Martini gin and which means means less less gin
and more vermouth. which vermouth. A A sweet sweet Martini gin and would conta
contain 5 parts gin and 1 I part sweet Italian vermouth, vermouth, would in 5 sweet
ltalian garnished with a and is garnished peel, a twist of orange and orange peel.
(Scotch, rye, Old-fashioned Whisky (Scotch, ry€, or Old-fashioned or Bourbon),
Bourbon), - Whisky juice, sugar. bitters or or cherry cherry juice, Angostura
bitters sugar. Garnish: Garnish: cherries, cherries, pineapple wedges. A smalllump
orange slices, lemon slices slices or pineapple small lump of sugar sugar moistened
moistened with with the the Angostura Angostura bitters of bitters or or cherry
cherry

juice 'old fashioned' an 'old jUlce is is placed placed in in an fashioned' glass.

glass. Ice lce cubes cubes are

and agitating agitating the glass so that the bitters coat the inside. inside. The
bitters are then poured away and gin added until the drink is pale pink. I part
lime juice, 1 I part sugar syrup, syrup,4 DaiquiriRum Daiquiri - 1 4 parts juice.
Add Bacardi and lime juice. rum. Blend Blend syrup syrup and Bacardi rum. Add rum
rum and finely crushed ice. Shake hard and strain into ioto chilled glasses.
(Scotch, rye, rye, or Bourbon), Bourbon), 4 parts whisky (Scotch, Whisky sour -4
juice, 1 juice, sweeteoing I part orange I part lemon juice, sweetening to tas
taste. orange juice, 1 te. orange peel or lemon peel. Garnish: maraschino cherry,
orange a selection selection of various various types types of cocktail, cocktail,
The following is is a classified for easy reference: reference: classified Classic
cocktails tin grapefruit, I bitter Classic l.e.D. i I tin - Adam I.C.D. Cinzano, f,
dry dry Cinzano, Cinzano, i Cinzano, I gin. Alexandra. $ fresh cream, CrEme de
Cacao, j Cognac. Cognac. cream, ] Crème Alexandra. Americano. t vermouth, t d.V
bitter Campari, Campari, j $ sweet vermouth, ] bitter * dry vermouth, twist of
lemon peel. vermouth, grenadine, i in without mixing: i Arc-en-ciel. Pour in I
grenadine, I Marie Ricqlds, i Chartreuse. . Brizard,f V6ramint Ricqlès, Brizard, i
Véramint I green Chartreuse juice. grenadine, t Bacardi. ~ lemon juice. Bacardi. t
grenadine, I lemon t rum, ~ velvet ] stout, t Champagne. Black velvel. I Champagne.

(3 tablespoons, scant t cup) whisky added and ] t dl. (3 whisky poured or, if over
over them. One One or or more more of the garnishes garnishes are are added added
or, if preferred, a piece of lemon peel is twisted over the drink. A
'muddler'(stirring glass. 'muddler' (stirring stick) is placed in each glass. Pink
gin - Made Made by putting Angostura Angostura bitters in a glass

Cocktail shaker shaker Cocktail (Larousse) (Larousse)

247
COCOA COCOA
Bloody Mary. (6 oz.) Mary. 175 175 ml. ml. (6 oz.) tomato tomato juice, 1I dash
dash lemon lemon Bloody juice, 22dashes dashes Worcester Worcester sauce, (2-3 oz.)
sauce, 3-4 3-4 tab,lesPocJns tablespoons (2-3 oz.) juice, vodka, salt salt and
pepper. and cayenne cayenne pepper. vodka, juice, if Cinzano grn,i* Orange Bronx.
~Sgin, Orange juice, Cinzano rosso, rosso, I Cinzano Cinzano Bronx. bianco. bianco.
Canasta. t$Cinzano Cinzano bianco, bianco, * gin, * maraschino. Canasta. Champagne
cocktail. glass Chlanlpalgne, cocktail.l Champagne, I dash AngosChampagne 1 glass
tura bitters, bitters, twist twist of lemon peel, peel, 1 of lemon I sugar sugar
lump. tura Champagne fiip. 1 glass Champagne, Champagne, I beaten egg yolk, egg
yolk, Champagne "flip. 1 glass twist of peel. Sprinkle of lemon lemon peel.
Sprinkle with grated nutmeg. with grated nutmeg. twist Cherry blossom. blossom. j
Cognac, Cognac, I cherry cherry brandy, brandy, 1 I dash dash Cherry Curagao, 1
grenadine, 1 I dash dash grenadine, I dash lemon lemon juice. Curaçao, Cinzano
cobbler. cobbler. tt Cinzano Cinzano rosso, rosso, f, ,-"Ul Curagao, kirsch,
Cinzano "' .. au. i f kirsch, I tablespoon tablespoon sugar, sugar, 1 I slice slice
orange, orange, diced fresh fruit. 1 glass rum, Cuba libre. libre.l glass Coca-
Cola. rum, 1 I glass Coca-Cola. Cuba 1 glass Cognac, ~ Cointreau, 1 I tablespoon
tablespoon orange orange t Cognac, $ Cointreau, . Curnonsky. .Curnonsky. ~ juice.
Julce. juice, 1 Daiquiri. ~ rum, t lemon juice, grenadine. I tablespoon tablespoon
grenadine. Daiquiri. t rum, $ lemon juice of I orange. glass Dubonnet, Dubonnet
fizz. I glass Dubonnet, juice orange. Top Top up Dubonnet up fizz. 1 with
Champagne. Champagne. with Evming delight. glass rye delight. 1 I glass rye
whiskey, whiskey, 1 I dash dash Curaçao, Curagao, 1 I dash apricot brandy. brandy.
juice of glass gin, Ginfizz.l gin, juice of 1 I lemon, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon
sugar, sugar, 1 glass water. soda water. soda Half and andhalf.lpale ale, f stout.
stout. Ralf half. pale ale, gitt, i sweet Maca.* gin, sweet Martini, $ Noilly
Noilly Prat, Prat,Zdashes Maca. 2 dashes cassis, I slice slice orange. orange. 1
Manhattan. ~ Scotch whisky, whisky, $ Noilly Noilly Prat, 2 2 dashes Manhattan. f
Scotch Angostura bitters, bitters, 2 2 dashes dashes Cointreau, Cointreau, 1 I
twist twist of lemon, lemon, 1 I Angostura Dry.t cherry. Dry. white vermouth,
vermouth, 1 gin, 1 I olive. cherry. ! white f gin, Mr. Callaghan. ~ dry Cinzano,
Cinzano, $ apricot brandy, brandy, ~ MI'. Callaghan. ~ apricot 3 dry f Angostura
bitters. bitters. rUI~,,'~u~la j Negroni. * gin, gin,l Cam Campari, pari, Cinzano
rosso, twist of lemon peel. peel. Planter's. rum, i lemon juice, Planter 's. ~
juice, i orange juice. juice. f rum, f lemon I orange Porto flip. I glass port, I
yolk, 1 I tablespoon sugar. Porto 1 glass 1 egg yolk, Sprinkle with grated grated
nutmeg. Rose. 10 gin, t Noilly Prat, cherry Rocher, I 1 cherry. -:gin, fo INoilly
-a Sherry sherry,2 dashes Curagao,3 Sherry cobbler. cobbler. 1 glass glass sherry,
Curaçao, 3 dashes orange slice lemon. orange juice, juice, 1 1 slice slice orange,
orange, I 1 slice Side lemon juice, Side car.{ car. i-Iemon juice, } Cognac,
Cognac, } white white Curagao. Curaçao. Sputnik.I Sputnik. j vodka, vodka, !
Cinzano, I 1 cocktail onion. onion. { dry Cinzano, Tom Tom Collins. Collins. I 1
glass glass gin, I 1 tablespoon sugar, sugar, I 1 tablespoon lemon lemon juice,
soda-water. soda-water. Coffee-based Cott~e-baSf~d cocktails cocktails - Roman
Roman holiday (for (for 4 people). people). 100 f Al 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., oz., lt
It cups) cups) very very finely finely ground coffee, coffee,3 dl. $ (i pint, pint,
l| H cups) water, water, 2 2 to to 5 teaspoonJ teaspoons icing sugar, according
according to to taste, tas te, 3 to to 4 4 ice ice cubes cu bes per per glass. Make
Make the the coffee coffee tn in a a bain-marue. Crush Crush the the ice ice cubes
cubes and and fill fill the the glasses glasses three-quarters three-quarters full
full with with them. them. Sprinkle with with the the sugar. sugar. Pour Pour the
the boiling boiling coffee coffee over. over. Romans Romans top top this this drink
drink with with a a generous generous swirl swirl of of sweetened sweetened
Chantilly Chantilly cream cream flavoured flavoured with with cinnamon. cinnamon.
Bourbon Bourbon coffee. coffee. Black Black coffee, coffee, ice, ice, Bourbon
Bourbon whiskey. whiskey. Fill Fill the the glasses glasses with with ice ice and
and pour pour a a liqueur liqueur glass glass of of Bourbon Bourbon whiskey whiskey
in in each. each. Top Top up up with with black black coffee. coffee. If If you you
like like sugar sugar or or cream, cream, or or both, both, add add these these and
and stir. stir. If If the the coffee coffee is is preprechilled is required.
chilled less less iee ice is Mllk-based Milk-based cocktails - Tango.l cup milk, 2
ice cubes, 2 tablespoons fruit syrup, syrup, (grenadine, cassis, raspberry, tables
po ons fruit strawberry, strawberry, pineapple pineapple or or orange). orange).
Shake vigorously. The cocktail cocktail must must be be frothy. frothy. BrCsilien.
Brésilien. Evaporated Evaporated milk milk diluted diluted with with $ j- water,
water, 2 2 teate aspoons spoons soluble soluble coffee, coffee, { teaspoon teaspoon
cinnamon, cinnamon, sugar sugar to to taste, taste, ice ice cubes. cubes. Prepare
Prepare asfot as for Nigrillonne Négrillonne (see (seebelow), below), the
thechocolate chocolatebeing being replaced repJaced by by coffee. coffee.
NCgrillonne. Négrillonne. Evaporated Evaporated milk milk diluted diluted with with
$ ! water, water, I1

tablespoon tablespoon chocolate powder, f, teaspoon chocolate powder, teaspoon

vanilla vanilla or cinnaor cinnabes. te, ice mon, sugar to icecu to tas taste,
cubes. Blend the the chocolate, chocolate, vanilla vanilla and and sugar. sugar.
Add Add the the milk milk diluted diluted with with the the water water and pour
into and pour into the the mixer mixer or or shaker. shaker. Shake Shake until
until frothy. frothy. Serve Serve with with ice. ice. Tea-based Tea-based cocktails
cocktails -- Casbah. Casbah. This This Aigerian Algerian drink drink is is an an
excellent quencher. Drunk excellent thirst thirst quencher. Drunk hot, hot, even
very hot, even very hot, during during the the hottest hottest season, season, it
it is is delightfully delightfully refreshing. refreshing. 1 I tablespoon green
tea, tablespoon green tea, JI tablespoon tablespoon mint mint tea, 100 to tea, 100
to (4 to g. (4 150 I 50 g. to 5 5 oz., I cup) ( l! pints) oz., 1 cup) Joaf loaf
sugar, sugar, ol litre pints) water. fitre (l-jwater. Mix green and Mix the the
green and mint mint tea tea together together and and leave leave them them to to
infuse infuse for for sorne some time. time. Crush Crush the the sugar and add add
gradually to sugar and to the the tea, tea, until until it it all all dissolves.
dissolves. The infusion must The infusion must be very very strong strong and and
sweet, sweet, almost almost syrup-like syruplike in in consistency. consistency.
Serve very hot Serve very hot with with a a fresh fresh leaf leaf of of mint mint
in in each each glass. This This beverage beverage can can be be entirely prepared
from powdered from powdered mint, mint, in in which which case case honey is
substituted for for sugar. (for 4 Tea punch (for 4 people). 2 2 teaspoons tea, tea,
rind of I lemon, lemon, water, 3 tablespoons water, tablespoons sugar, (6
tablespoons, sugar, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant 1cup) * cup) rum, ice
rum, bes. i@ cu cubes. Make the the tea, but add add the lemon rind before pouring
in tea, but in the the boiling boiling water. water. Infuse for quarter of an an
hour. hour. Add the the sugar. sugar. Leave Leave the get quite cold; the tea tea
to to get cold; it placed in it can can be be placed in the the refrigerator.
refrigerator. To To serve, place a serve, place a large large cube cube of sugar
sugar in in each each glass, pour in the rum and, glass, and, lastly, the cold cold
tea. This This cocktail is often drunk drunk through a a straw straw stuck through
a on. a slice of lem lemon. Vitamin-based cocktails The following following
cocktails cocktails have - The been been specially devised by the dietician
Gayelord Hauser. Cocabacrem. 1 I glass milk, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon yeast, 1 I
tablespoon honey, I tablespoon UHI!""'IJ'-/VLI powdered milk, 1 banana. I sliced
banana. Cocabana. I glass pineapple juice, Cocabana. juice, 1 milk, 1 I tablespoon
milk, I tablespoon tablespoon honey, 1 banana. I mashed banana. juice, iCocabricot.
1 apricotjuice, cup skimmed I large glass apricot skimmed milk, f cup I l
tablespoon honey. honey, 1 tablespoon lemon Cocktomate. I 1 glass glass tomato
juice, I juice, juice, I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. Complete
Complete cocktail. cocktail. I J glass pineapple pioeapple juice, juice,l I
tablespoon crushed walnuts, walnuts, I 1 tablespoon yeast, I J tablespoon honey,
honey, l0 10 crushed wild strawberries. apple juice. juice. Maraicher. M araicher.
$ celery juice, $ carrot juice, $ apple . milk, I shake. I 1 glass orange juice, 2
tablespoons Milk shake. milk, honey. tablespoon honey.

COCOA (Beans). (Reans). cAcAoCACAO - Seeds Seeds contained contained in in a a pod

which which is is COCOA the fruit fruit of of the the cacao cacao tree. tree. The
The pod is is gatherod gathered when ripe, ripe, and and the The beans, beans,
covered covered with fleshy pulp, are are fermented; fermented; a a split. The
process process which destroys destroys the the germ, and enables enables them them
to to be be shelled. They They are are then then dried dried in silos silos or or
in in the the open open air. air. The The shelled. highest quality quality cocoa
cocoa comes cornes from from Venezuela, Venezuela, and and GuateGuatehighest mala;
mala; it it has has a a thick, thick, ochrg-coloured ochre-coloured shell shell and
and a a purple-blue purple-blue bean. Ecuador Ecuador cocoa cocoa beans beans are
are bigger, with with a a brown brown shell shell bean. and and a a brown, brown,
almost almost black, black, bean. bean. Brazil varieties varieties of of cocoa,
cocoa, including including the the Maragnan, Maragnan, are are flatter flatter in
in shape, shape, with with a a purplepurpleblue bean. bean. Guiana Guiana cocoa
cocoa beans beans are are small, small, with with a a grey grey shell shell blue
and and brown brown bean. bean. Different Different characteristics characteristics
make make it it possible possible to to distinguish dis,tinguish the cocoa cocoa of
of Jamaica, Jamaica, Martinique, Martinique, Guadeloupe, Guadeloupe, etc. etc. The
the should have have a a clean c1ean smell smell and and should should not not have
have anv any beans should beans wormholes, wormhoJes, grit, grit, or or other other
foreign foreign matter. matter. Columbus Columbus was, was, according according to
tolegend, legend, the the first first European European to to cocoa in in use, use,
but but the the specimens specimens he he took took back back to to Spain Spain see
cocoa see were were not not considered considered of of any any value. value.
Cortes Cortés found found it it widely widely grown grown and and used used in in
Mexico Mexico in in 1519. 1519. The The Aztecs Aztecs grew grew it it for for many
many generations, generations, and and their their Emperor Emperor Montezuma,
Montezuma, and and his his court, court, are are reputd reputed to to have have
consumed consumed fifty fifty large largejars jars a a day. day. There Therewas
wasno nosugar at at that thattime, time,and and the thedrink drinkwas wasflavoured
flavoured with vanilla vanilla and drunk cold. cold. with 248 248

Seafood:oysters, oysters,mussels, mussels,cockles, cockles.shrimps, shrimps,sea

seaurchins urchinsand andlobsters (Prunier.Phot' Phot. Nicolas Nicolas) lobsters
(Prnnrer. Seafood: )
COCOTTE COCOTTE
In Europe, Europe, the the Spaniards Spaniards imitated imitated the Aztecs' method
method of the Aztecs' of In preparing 'chocolate', 'chocolate', flavouring
flavouring it it with chillies and and other with chillies other preparing hot
spices spices and and making making it it into into a a soup-like soupJike
concoction. concoction. hot Chocolate became a fashionable fashionable drink became
a drink in in France. France. The The Chocolate first record record of of its its
use in England England was use in was at at Oxford Oxford in in 1650. 1650. Seven
Seven first years later later a a Frenchman Frenchman opened opened a a cocoa cocoa
house house in in BishopsBishopsyears gate Street, Street, London. London. Under
payable on Charles II II the Under Charles the dut duty on gate y payable chocolate
in in its per gallon. gallon. Later, its finished finished state state was was 8 8
shillings shillings per Later, chocolate someone thought thought of of adding
adding sugar sugar to chocolate. Pepys, to chocolate. Pepys, in in his his someone
diary, after after his his first first taste 'very taste of of'jucalette' described
it it as as 'very diary, 'juca/ette' described good'. good'.
is necessary is necessary to to release release the aroma. After the aroma. After
roasting, roasting, the beans the beans pulverised and presented in are pulverised
are and presented in various various forms. forms. Cocoa Cocoa sheDs. shells.
COQUES DE CACAO cAcAo -- The The membranous membranous shells coeuEs DE shells of
of husked husked cocoa cocoa beans prepare a pleasant beans can can be be used used
to to prepare a pleasant beverage, beverage, resembling possesses fortifying
resembling chocolate, chocolate, which which possesses fortifying properties owing
properties owing to vitamin content. to the the vitamin content. Allow Allow 1 I
tablespoon tablespoon per cup. cocoa shells cocoa shells per cup.

Coconut

pods Cocoa pods

Chocolate houses houses were were fashionable fashionable in Chocolate in the the
eighteenth century, each each having century, having a a literary, literary,
political political or or gambling gambling gaming-house in St James's notorious
gaming-house clientele. White's, White's, the notorious Street, began as a
chocolate house. Chocolate Chocolate was was first first prepared prepared by hand.
Dr Joseph Fry of Bristol, Bristol, having having bought bought the the patent
patent rights rights from from Walter Churchman, Churchman, who who had had been
been making chocolate since since 1728, was was the the first first to to
manufacture manufacture it it on a a big scale in in England, England, introducing
introducing a steam engine for grinding grinding the cocoa beans in 1795. 1795. Dr
Dr James Baker founded the first chocolate factory in America America in in 1780.
1780. Both businesses businesses still exist. exist. All or drinking drinking
chocolate. It It is not Ali this this was was still still cocoa, or definitely
definitely known known when chocolate was first sold for eating; eating; probably
probably not not until until Victoria's reign. Cadbury's Cadbury's price price
list, as as late of eating eating chocolate. late as as 1842, 1842, shows only only
one kind of Cocoa POUDRE DE DE cAcAo CACAO SoLUBLE SOLUBlE - Cocoa with with Cocoa
powder. powder. pouDRE reduced which it reduced fat content content treated treated
with with potassium potassium (of (ofwhich it must must not not contain contain
more more than 3.5 3·5 g. g. per 100 100 g.). It It is is soluble. soluble. Cocoa
Cocoa contains various various alkaloids, alkaloids, the the most most important
important of of which which are are theobromine theobromine and caffeine. It It
also contains con tains about about 17 17 per per cent cent nitrogenous nitrogenous
matter, matter, 25.5 25·5 per per cent cent fats fats and and 38 38 per per cent
cent carbohydrates, carbohydrates, all ail of of which which have have important
important food food value value and and a a stimulating stimulating action. It It
is is mainly mainly taken taken in in the the form form of of chocolate. chocolate.
Preparation Preparation of of cocoa cocoa - To prepare prepare an an excellent
excellent breakfast breakfast beverage, beverage, cocoa cocoa can can be he used
used instead instead of of slab slab chocolate. chocolate. Boiling Boiling water
water and and milk milk is is poured poured on on cocoa cocoa powder powder and and
mixed mixed with with sugar sugar according according to to taste. tas te. A A
smooth smooth paste paste can can be be made made by by mixing mixing cocoa cocoa
powder powder with with sweetened sweetened condensed condensed milk milk and and
then then adding adding boiling boiling water. water. Roasted CACAO ronnfrn
TORRÉFIÉ - Cocoa Cocoa beans beans have have a a very very Roasted cocoa. cocoa.
cAcAo light light smell smell and and a a bitter bitter taste. tas te. Roasting,
Roasting, as as in in the the case case of ofcoffee, coffee,
249 249
When Wben planning planning a a kitchen, kitcben, for for convenience convenience
the tbecooking cooking hob bobis isoften often set set into into the tbe
workingsurface working surface (Marc (Marc Held. Held. Phot. Phal. Larousse)
Larousse)

COCONUT. NOIX Nox DE COCONUT. DE COCO coco -- Fruit Fruit of of the coconut tree,
the coconut palm tree belonging to to the the palm family. The tree family. The sap
sap is is used make used to to make fermented drinks drinks called called palm tree
wines. Gathered before the tains a the fruit is is ripe, ripe, the the coconut con
contains a kind of milk or cream. When ripe, ripe, the nut has a a hollow hollow
centre and adheres to and to the the shell. It is is used shell. It used mainly
mainly for cake-making cake-making and confectionery. Dried, and and and with with
the the fibrous fibrous outer outer skin removed, coconut is is called called
copra, and and is is used used for making an industrial oil for soap manufacture.
Purified and and deodorised, coconut Purified coconut oil, oil, which which has has
a a firm consistency at consistency at ordinary ordinary temperatures, is called
temperatures, is called coconut butter. There are are a a number of commercial
products under . this name. Itis It is fatty, almost almost without without
watercontent, water content, odourless, odourless, tasteless, and very digestible.
It is used tasteless, used in certain diets when when butter cannot be assimilated,
and and especially butter cannot be in vegetarian especially in cookery. LAIT DE DE
COCO Used to to moisten Coconut milk. milk. larr coco moisten curry - Used sauces.
Mix Mix 400 g. (14 o2.,4 oz., 4 cups) finely grated coconut with grated coconut 3
dl. (* (t pint, l{ I-!- cups) warm milk. Strain through through muslin.
ICAQUE COCO-PLUM. rcneun -

tree. It is eaten fresh or preserved. preserved.

Fruit of the the tropical - Fruit

coco-plum coco-plum

COCOSE COCOSE - Butter made from coconut.

especially especially meat, meat, fowl and game. Cocottes Cocottes are made in
earthenware, fireproof porcelain porcelain or glass, tinned copper, nickel,
aluminium, aluminiwn, stainless steel, cast iron Iron or silver. Dishes Dishes
cooked in these utensils, utensils, in which which they are are usually served, are
are described described as en en cocotte cocotte or en en casserole. casserole.

COCOTTE COCOTTE - Utensil in which which certain certain foods foods are cooked,

Cocottes Cocottes
COD coD
COD. cABILLAUD, CABILLAUD, cABLIALJD CABLlAUD -Largefish - Large fish of of the the
gentx genus Gadus, Gadus, COD. found in in North North Atlantic Atlantic waters.
waters. It It has has an an elongated elongated body body found with soft soft grey
grey scales, scales, and and yellow yellow and and brown brown spots spots on on
its its back back with and flanks, flanks, which which are are white white like
like its its belly. belly. A A cod cod can can weigh weigh as as and much much as
as 36 36 kg. kg. (801b.). (80 lb.). In In France France fresh fresh cod cod is is
called called cabillaud cabillaud and salt salt cod cod is is called called morue.
morue. The The flesh flesh is is white white and and flaky. flaky. and smoked, is
is excellent. excellent. 1ts roe, roe, smoked, Its

AU AU vIN VIN BLANC BLANC AVEc AVEC cARNITUREs GARNITURF..S DTvERSES DIVERSES - All
Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for brill, brill,
sole, sole, whiting whiting and and

nnllsf BRAISÉ

Cod Cod braised braised in in white white wine wine with witb variom various
garnishes. garnishes. cABILLAUD CABILLA UD

Cod

different ways. In addition Fresh cod is prepared in many different

in steaks or or in this fish, fish, whole whole or below, this to the recipes given
below, (q.v.), for brill brill (q.v.), fillets, prepared in any way way suitable
for can be be prepared fillets, can
any other large fish. turbot (q.v.), haddock (q.v.) and any for cod: are
particularly suitable for The recipes are following recipes The following Bercy,
femme, normande, portugaise, portugaise, provengale. provençale. Bercy, bonne
femme, Cut the the cod Cod A L'ANGLAISE L'ANctlIse l'anglajse. CABILLAUD cABILLAUD
À I l'anglaise. Cod à - Cut (l| inches) from the of the middle of into slices
inches) thick, thick, taken taken from cm. (Ii3 cm. slices 3 pepper and and and
pepper preference. Season with salt the Season with salt and for preference. fish
for the fish with cover with with oil, oil, coyer dredge in flour. in beaten egg
mixed with flour. Dip in until both both in clarified butter until white clarified
butter and cook in white breadcrumbs, and Maitre half-melted Maître sides golden.
Serve with half-melted Serve topped topped with are golden. sides are (see BUTTER,
Compound d'hôtel Compound butters). d'hbtel butter (see BoUILLI Boiled (hot) with
cABILLALJD BOUILLI sauces. CABILLAUD with various various sauces. Boiled cod cod
(hot) in CourtCourt(CHAUD) (culuo) -- Poach in steaks, steaks, in or in whole, or
cod whole, Poach the the cod into the the fish into Put the fish III (see COURT-
BOUILLON). bouillon COURT-BOUILLOI9. Put bouillonlll(see heat reduce the the heat
then reduce liquid when the boil boil then is cold, cold, bring bring to to the it
is when it further. it to and poach without allowing to boil boil further. allowing
it leave to and leave to poach parsley and and boiled boiled garnish with Drain
fresh parsley with fresh fish and and garnish Drain the the fish for recommended
for potatoes. sauces recommended of the the sauces potato€s. Serve with one one of
Serve with Fines herbes, herbes, Shrimp, Fines boiled Butter, Caper, Caper, Shrimp,
Anchovy, Butter, fish: Anchovy, boiled fish: (see SAUCE, White SAUCE, White
Hollandaise, Ravigote, etc. etc. (see Lobster, Ravigote, Hollandaise, Lobster,
sauces). sauces). BoUILLI Id) with BoUed (cotd) cABILLAUD BOUILLI various sauces.
saucesi. CABILLAUD with various cod (co Boiled cod preceding recipe, recipe,
(FROID) in the (rnoro) -- Cook as described described in the preceding fish as the
fish Cook the cooking the cooking but that the done, so so that it is is two-thirds
two-thirds done, until it only until but only process in the the court-bouillon.
court-bouillon. as it it cools cools in completed as process can can be be
completed garnish with with fresh fresh Drain and garnish in a a cloth, cloth, and
it is is cold, cold, dry dry in when it Drain when quartered hard-boiled parsley
hard-boiled and quartered hearts and lettuce hearts parsley or with lettuce or with
for cold cold eggs. recommended for of the the sauces sauces recommended with one
one of Serve with eggs. Serve Tartare, fish: Rimoulade, Tartare, Ravigote,
Rémoulade, Mayonnaise, Ravigote, fish: Gribiche, Gribiche, Mayonnaise, (see SAUCE,
Green, sauces). Cold sauces). SAUCE, Cold Vincent (see Green, Vincent Cod
souLA.NcERE -A LA rl BOULANGÈRE cABILLAuo À boulang0re. CABILLAUD h boulangère. Cod
àn la pepper, sprinkle with Season sprinkle with and pepper, piece of with salt
salt and of cod cod with a piece Season a melted fireproof in aa fireproof oven in
in the lightly in the oyen and brown brown lightly melted butter butter and dish.
potatoes and onions. and sliced sliced onions. with sliced sliced potatoes Surround
with dish. Surround
Season powdered thyme pepper, powdered thyme potatoes with and pepper, with salt
salt and the potatoes Season the and inthe Bake in the melted butter. butter. Bake
little melted with aalittle and sprînkle and bay sprinkle with bay and oyen,
parsley and and chopped parsley with chopped Sprinkle with frequently. Sprinkle
oven, basting bastingfrequently. serve it was cooked. in which which it wascooked.
dish in in the the dish serve in Cod AU VIN vIN sRAtsEAU cnsnrauoBRAISÉ white wine.
wine. CABILLAUD in white braised in Cod braised BLANC white forBrill Brill in
inwhite recipefor in the therecipe asdescribed described in BLANc -- Proceed
Proceed as wine (see BRILL). BRILL). wine(see
250 250

other other braised braised and and garnished garnished fish fish can can be be
applied applied to to cod. cod. Cod with with mefted meIted butter. butter.
cABILLALID CABILLAUD AI AI BEURRE BEURRE FoNDU FONDU Cook Cook the the fish fish
whole whole or or in in pieces pieces in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon III III
(see (see COURT-BOUILLON). COURT-BOUILLON). Drain. Drain. Serve Serve with with
melted melted butter butter and and boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. Cold Cold cod
cod with with variors various sauc€s. sauces. cABILLAUD CABILLAUD FRoID FROID -
Poach Poach cod cod in in salted water water and and leave leave to to cool cool in
in the the cooking cooking liquid' liquid. Tartare, Serve with Drain, Drain, and
and garnish garnish with with parsley. parsley. Serve with Tartare, sauoe
recommended Mayonnaise, Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or any any other other sauce
recommended Cold as as an an accompaniment accompaniment for for cold cold fish
fish (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold are cold bass garnishes indicated sauces). All
sauces). Ali the the garnishes indicated for for cold bass (q.v.) (q.v.) are cod.
suitable sui table for for cod. Bone A LA r,c. CRÈME cniMr cABILLAUD 6ruvB cream.
CABILLAUD Cod cooked - Bone Cod cooked in in cream. ÉTUvÉ À 5-cm. cut into and eut
fillets and Skin the a a medium-sized medium-sized cod. cod. Skin the fiUets into
5-cm. pepper. (2-inch) with salt salt and and pepper. Season with (2-inch) pieces.
pieces. Season in butter butter lightly in (5 oz., chopped onion onion lightly g.
(5 cups) chopped oz.,l| 150 g. Fry 150 Fry li cups) pieces Fry the the pieces fish.
Fry add the colour, and and add the fish. it 10 to colom, allowing it without
without allowing ({ pint, white pint, seant cup) dry dry white 2 dl. dl. (t scant
cup) with 2 Moisten with all sides. on ail sides. Moisten on (f, pint, pint, seant
2 scant 2 4 dl. dl. Ci Add 4 for several several minutes. Simmer for wine. Simmer
minutes. Add (se SAUCE). with the the slowly, with Simmer slowly, SAUCE). Simmer
sauce (see Creatn sauce of Cream cups) of pan, until cooked. until cooked. lid on
on the pan, lid Butter a a cRATIN cnirr'c GRATIN gratin CABILLAUD cABILLAUD CRÈME
cod gratin. Cream cod - Butter Cream (see potatoes (see Duchess potatoes pipe a of
Duchess a high high border border of and pipe dish and dish a few few tablespoons
tablespoons Put a edges. Put the edges. round the POTATOES) POT A TOES) round (see
SAUCE) Fill up up to to two-thirds two-thirds in the dish. dish. Fill SAUCE) in
Mornay sauce (see in butter. heated in butter. cod, heated with slices of cod,
slices of border with of the height height of the border grated cheese, cheese,
brush brush with grated sprinkle with sauce, sprinkle Mornay sauce, Cover with with
Mornay Coyer and melted butter butter and with melted egg sprinkle sprinkle with
with beaten egg, the border with the oven. moderate oyen. in a a moderate brown in
of Season slices slices of A LA I-l CRÈME cnirvm -- Season cABILLAUD À la crème.
cr6me. CABILLAUD i la Cod à Cod half-cooked, When half-cooked, pepper. Fry Fry in
in butter. butter. When and pepper. cod with with salt salt and cod lid with the
the lid cooking with Finish cooking fresh cream. cream. Finish with thick thick
fresh moisten with moisten 2 or or 3 3 cream, add add 2 down the the cream, fish,
boil pan. Remove boil down Remove the the fish, on the the pan. on fish. pour over
over the the fish. it and and pour to it fresh butter butter to tablespoons fresh
tablespoons u. DIEPolepA LA DE CABILLAUD cABILLAUo À TRoNgoNs DE i la dieppoise.
TRONÇONS la dieppoise. Cod à Cod polsE -- Prepare fish (scant pint, pint,2t cups)
concentrated concentrated fish 5 dl. dl. (seant Prepare 5 POISE 2i cups) (scant
litre (seant (see FUMET). open tI litre and open Clean, shell shell and FUMET).
Clean, stock (see stock (2 oz.) shrimps' oz.) shelled shelled shrimps' 50 g. add 50
pint" 2i and add mussels and 2i cups) cups) mussels e. (2 pint, (To ob allow tails
allow shrimps' tails amount of of shelled shelled shrimps' this amount obtain
tails. (To tails. tain this (5 oz.) g. (5 150 g. oz.) shrimps.) shrimps.) 150 (l
oz., and g. (1 butter and tablespoons) butter 25 g. o2.,2 roux with with 25 a roux
Make a Make 2 tablespoons) and 1 I dl. fish fumet and dl. (l oz., the fishfumet
with the flour. Dilute Dilute with g. (1 cup) flOUL oz., } 25 g. 25 I cup) in which
liquor in which the the (6 tablespoons, cup) of of the the liquor scant !1 cup)
tablespoons, seant (6 pinch with aa pin of Season with strained. Season well
strained. were cooked, cooked, weil mussels were mussels ch of boil, stirring
stirring grated nutmeg. Bring to to the the boil, nutmeg. Bring pepper and little
grated and a a little pepper garniand and 1 I tablespoon tablespoon bouquet garni
add aa small small bouquet all the the time, time, add ail gently for minutes' for
20 20 minutes. peel. Simmer Simmer gently mushroom peel. mushroom fillets. cod
fillets. of the thecod sides of incisions on both sides on both few small small
incisions Make aa few Make (l oz., g. (1 and 25 25g. o2.,2 in white wine and cook
in white wine and cook with salt salt and Season with Season 2 pieces. Bring the
boil, boil, transfer transfer Bring to to the cut in in pieces. butter eut
tablespoons) butter tablespoons) 15to for 15 to heat for in moderate moderate heat
cooking in continue cooking and continue oven, and to the the oyen, to frequently.
l8 minutes, minutes, basting basting frequently. 18 in liquor in Add the the liquor
into another another saucepan. saucepan. Add the sauce sauce into Strain the Strain
few diluted with withaafew and2 eggyolks cooked and fish was wascooked which the
the fish which 2 egg yolks diluted minutes over over fewminutes for aa few Stirfor
stock.Stir mushroom stock. tablespoons mushroom tablespoons heat, from the theheat,
(2oz., remove g.(2 cup) butter, butter, rem add 50 50g. oz.,iI cup) heat,add heat,
ove from allowto to Do not not allow tails.Do shrimps' tails. andthe theshrimps'
musselsand add the themussels and andadd boil. boil. with andsurround surround with
long dishand onaalongdish fishon arrange the thefish Toserve, To serve, arrange
(Phil6as Gilbert.) garnish. (Philéas Gilbert.) andgarnish. sauceand the thesauce
into fishinto thefish Cutthe oucrfn6 - - Cut cABILLAUoDUGLÉRÉ Dugl6r6.CABILLAUD Cod
Cod Dugléré. (seeBASS). BASS). Dugliri(see forBass ,BassDugléré asdescribed
described for Proceed as steaks. steaks. Proceed and filletsand codfillets Skin the
thecod DECABILLAUD cABILLAUp- - Skin FILETs DE fillets. FILETS Cod Cod flUets. for
givenfor forcod, cod,or orfor recipesgiven ofthe pieces. Follow Followone oneof
therecipes into pieces. eut cutinto (q.v.). (q.v.) or (q.v.),sole bass(q.v.).
orbass sole(q.v.) whiting whiting(q.v.),
COD

Filleting Nicolas) Filleting cod cod (Ledoyen. (Ledoyen. Phot. Nicolas)

Cod t à la flamande. flamande. cABTLLAL'D CABILLAUD A À r-e LA rL,quA,NDE FLAMANDE

- Season Season cod slices slices with with salt salt and and freshly ground ground
pepper, pepper, and place place in a

buttered buttered baking tin tin sprinkled with with chopped chopped shallots
shallots and chopped parsley. Cover Cover with dry white white wine and put a slice
of peeled peeled lemon on on each each piece piece of cod. cod. Bring to to the the
boil. Finish cooking cooking in the the oven, oven, allowing about l2 12 minutes.
Drain Drain the fish fish and arrange on a long long dish. Bring the pan pan juices
juices to the the boil, add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon butter, pour the sauce sauce
over over the the fish, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley.

Fried Fried cod cod

Fried Fried cod. cod. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT - Cut Cut the the fish fish
into into 2l-cm. 2-i-cm. (l-inch) (l-inch) thick thick slices. Dip Dip in in cold
cold boiled boiled milk. milk. Dredge Dredge in in flour flour and and deep-|ry
deep-fry in in sizzling fat. fat. Drain, dry dry in a a cloth, c1oth, and and
sprinkle with salt. Garnish with fried parsley parsley and quarters quarters of of
lemon. lemon. Fried breadcrumbs. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT reNf PANÉ - Dip
Fried cod cod in breadcrumbs. slices slices of of cod cod in in egg egg and and
breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry fry as as above. above. Drain, Drain, season,
season, garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and lemon, Jemon,
and serve serve with with Maitre Maître d'hitel d'hôtel butter butter (see (see
BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Fried Fried cod cod Orly. Orly.
clnnLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT oRLy ORLY - Cook Cook cod cod fillets fillets as as

in in Whiting Whiting Orly Orly (see (see WHITING). WHITING).

Cod Cod au au gratin. gratin. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD AU AU GRATTN GRATIN - Prepare

Prepare and and cook cook cod cod steaks steaks or or fillets fillets like like
Brill BrUI au au gratin gratin (see (see BRILL). BRILL). Gritled Grilled cod. cod.
cnnllr,ruo CABILLAUD cnrlrf GRILLÉ - Season Season cod cod steaks steaks with with
salt salt and and pepper, pepper, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter
butter or or oil, oil, and and cook cook under under a a moderate moderate grill.
grill. Put Put a a slice slice of of peeled peeled lemon lemon on on each each

steak steak and and garnish garnish with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Serve
Serve with with Maitre Maître d'hbtel butter or or one one of of the the sauces
sauces recommended recommended for for grilled grilled d'hôtel butter fish SAUCE;
BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). fish (see (see SAUCE; Codi
Cod à la la hollandaise. hollandaise. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD A À r-.q, LA Hor-rnNonrsr
HOLLANDAISE - Cook Cook a a piece piece of of cod cod in in Court-bouillon Court-
bouillon III III (see (see COURT-BOUILCOURT-BOUILLON), LON), together together with
with good, good, mealy mealy potatoes. potatoes. Drain Drain the the fish fish
251 251

and surround surround with the potatoes, which which have been dried dried off in
the saucepan. Serve butter. Serve with melted butter. This dish should not be
confused confused with cod cod with with hollandaise hollandaise saltce, sauce,
where where the fish is cooked in a court-bouillon and served with ho llandaise
sauce. hollandaise sauce. Cod n à I'indienne. l'indienne. DARNEs DARNES DE DE
cABrLLAr,o CABILLAUD A À I'INUENNE L'INDIENNE Season Season cod steaks with salt
salt and pepper pepper and put them into a pan on a foundation of 50 g. g. (2 oz.,
* 1- cup) chopped onions lightly lightly fried fried in in butter,2 butter, 2
peeled, peeJed, seeded and chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, a pinch of of grated
garlic, and I 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with with 2 teaspoons
teaspoons curry powder powder and and 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., 2 tablespoons) butter
cut eut in very small pieces. Moisten Moisten with 1+ 1t dl. (+ (t pint, t ~ cup)
dry white wine. Bring Bring to the boil, then then bake bake in the oven oven for
l0 10 minutes. Baste Baste with thick thick fresh cream cream and and finish
cooking, basting frequently. frequently. Serve with Rice d à I'indienne l'indienne
(see RICE). Cod steaks steaks can can also also be be cooked cooked in in a a
concentrated fish Cod and pepper, pepper, and cover with stock. Drain, season with
salt and (see SAUCE) to to which the the concentrated pan pan Curry sauce (see
juices have have been been added. added. Serve with with Rice h à I'indienne
l'indienne (see RrcE). RICE). à la meuniire. meunière. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD A À rn
LA MeuNrins MEUNIÈRE - Slice the Cod i proceed as as described described for Bass d
à Ia la meunibre meunière (see (see cod and proceed BASS). BASS). CABILLAUD MoRNAy
MORNAY - Cook thin slices or Mornay. cABILLAUD Cod Mornay. tittle white wine. wine.
Place them them in an fillets of cod in a very little dish, cover cover with with
Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), ovenproof dish, sprinkle with grated cheese
cheese and melted butter, butter, and brown brown in sprinkle the oven oven or or
under the grill. grill. the Mornay in shells. coeuILLEs COQUILLES DE cABTLLAUD
CABILLAUD MoRNAy MORNAYCod Mornay Cod This is is useful usefuJ for for using using
up up left-overs. left-overs. Pour Pour Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see This into
ovenproof shells. shells. Fill with slices of hot cod cod SA UCE) into SAUCE) with
Mornal, Mornay sauce. sauce. Sprinkle SprinkJe with grated cheese cheese and cover
with melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in in the the oven oven or or under
the the grill. grill. and melted Roast cod. cod. casII-I-Luo CABILLAUD ndrl RÔTI -
Use cod whole or or cut eut in large large Roast pieces. with salt and pepper,
sprinkle sprinkle with with oil and a pieces. Season with dash of of lemon lemon
juice, juice, and leave to to steep in in this this seasoning seasoning for dash
hour. Drain Drain the the fish, fish, put put on on a spit and secure with with
string. 1 hour. I Brush with with melted melted butter and and roast before before
a a brisk brisk fire, Brush frequently basting with with butter. butter. frequently
basting Remove the the fish from the the spit. Dilute Dilute the pan pan juices
juices with with Remove and serve serve with with the the fish. fish. white wine
wine and white The cod may may also also be be roasted roasted in in the the oven,
oven, placed placed on on a grid grid The prevent its its lying Iying in in the the
pan pan juices. juices. to prevent to à la florentine. florentine. cABILLALJD
CABILLAUD EN EN coeulI-I-rs COQUILLES l À ra LA Cod in in shells shells A Cod
FLORENTINE - Proceed Proceed as as described described in the the recipe recipe for
Cod Cod FLoRENTINE shells lining tining the the bottom of the the shells shel1s
with with 1 1 Mornay in shells Mornay tablespoon leaf leaf spinach, spinach,
blanched blanched and simmered simmered in in butter. butter. tablespoon Cod in in
shells sbeUs au au gratin. gratin. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD EN EN coeuILLEs COQUILLES AU
AU Cod GRATIN - Put Put a a border border of of sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms
round round the the edges edges cRATIN of the the shells. shells. Pour Pour in in
Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Fill with with of
coD COD
small pieces of of cod, put a cooked mushroom mushroom in the middle middle and
cover rith Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with wilh grated breadwith Mornay crumbs and and
melted melted butter, butter, and brown brown under under the the grill. Sprinkle
with chopped parsley just just before serving. serving. To with chopped keep keep
the fish fish from from spilling spilling out of the the shells, sllells, a a
border border of Duchess Duchess potatoes potolOes (see (sec POTATOES) POTATOES)
can be piped round the
edges.

and cod fillets fillets and and cut cut into into pieces. pîeces. Roll RoU these
thcse into into and soak soak cod scrolls water, as as indicated îndicatOO in in
the the serolls and and tie them. them. Poach in water,
introduction introduction to this this section. sectîon. Drain the cod coo scrolls,
untie them and garnish with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with boiled Bâtarde. boiled
potatoes potatoes and a sauce: sauce: Bdtarde, Caper, Cream, Muswrd, Cream, Curry,
Curry, Parsley, Parsley. Hollandaise, Ho/landai.se. Mustard, Ravigote, RavÎgoLe,
Saint-Malo, Saint-Malo, etc. (see (sa: SAUCE). SAUCE). Bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse
of of salt saJt cod. cod, nounrABArss BOUILLABAISSE DE DE MoRUE MORUE - Cook 100
100 g. g. (4 oz., oz., I 1 cup) chopped onion anion and and 50 g. (2 oz., * t cup)
chopped in oil oil without without browning. When When these these vegetables
vegetables chopped leek leek in are 2 skinned, seeded, seeded, chopped tomatoes
tomatoes and a are tender, tender, add 2 crushed c10ve of of garlic. garlic. Cook
Cook rapidly rapidly for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Moisten Moisten crushed clove
with I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant, cup) white white wine,
wine, and 5 5 dl. dl. + cup) (scant 2t cups) water or fish fish fumet jumel (q.v.),
and and add a (seant pint" pint, 2* generous into this generous pinch pinch of
saffron. saffron. Bring to to the the boil. boiL Put Putinto this stock 750 75ü g.
g. (l* (If lb.) lb.) fillet fillet of of salt cod cut eut into into pieces. pieces.
Pour Pour in in 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant f t pint) pint) oil. oil.
Season with with a pinch pjnch of freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper.
Cover Cover the the saucepan and boil boil fast fast for for 25 minutes. minutes.
At At the the last last moment moment add add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped
parsley. parsley. Serve bouillabaisse with with slices slices of of toasted toasted
bread, bread, or, if if Serve the the bouillabaisse preferred, the can be he served
servOO in in a tureen tureen rvith with slices slices of of the soup can French
bread bread in in it, il, and and the the fish fish served separately. separately.
Bouillabaisse Boui11abaisse of salt cod cod ià la la m6nagdre. ménagère.
BourLLABArsE BOUlLLABA1SE DE DE MoRUE MORUE A À rA LA rvr6llA,cirns mNAGÈRE - Cook
Cook 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., I 1 cup) finely fmely chopped onion 50 g. (2 oz, oz.,
* ! cup) cup) chopped leek leek in in I 1 dl. dl. onion and and 50 (6 tablespoons,
tableS1JOClnS, scant] seant! cup) cup) oil. oil. They They should should not not
brown. brown. Add Add 2 crushed garlic garlie cloves cloves and moisten moisten
with with I 1 litre litre (If, (Ij pints, generous generous quart) quart) water.
water. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, add a a pinch of
saffron saflron and a a bouquet bouquet garni, garni, and and bring bring to to the
the boil. boil. pinch of Add (II oz.) thickly thickly sliced sliced potatoes
potatoe:s and and boil bail for for 12 12 Add 300 300 g, (ll minutes. minutes. Now
add 750 750 g. g. (l* (Ii lb.) lb.) salt cod cod cut cut into ioto pieces. pieces.
Pour Pour 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (seant * cup) cup) oil oil into inlo
the Ihe pan. pan. Cover, Cover, and and boil bouquet garni garni and, and add I1
boil fast. fast. Before Befoœ serving, serving, remove remove the the bouquet
tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley. parsley. Serve Serve the the bouillabaisse
with with slices slices of of toasted 10astOO bread, bread, rubbed rubbed with
soakOO in in a a little liUle of of the the cooking cooking stock. stock. with
garlic garlic and and soaked Brandade salt cod. cod. nuNnADE BRANDADE DE DE MoRTJE
MORUE - Wash Wash and and Brandade of of saft I ke. soak soakl kg. Qt (2* lb.) lb.)
salt cod coo and and cut into into pieces. pieces. Poach Poach in in water 8
minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain,. remove remove skin skin and and bones, bones, and
and water for for 8 flake Heat 2 2 dl. dl. (+ (1 pint, pint, scant cup) Clip) olive
olive oil oil in in a a ftake the the flesh. flesh. Heat heavy, heavy, flat-
bottomed flat-bottomed saucepan saucepan until unti! it il begins begins to to
smoke. smoke. Put Put in in the the cod cod and and add add a aa a small small
crushed crushed clove cl ove of of garlic. garlîc. Work Work the the mixture is
mixture on on the the stove stove with with a a hard hard wooden wooden spoon spoon
until until it it is reduced reducOO to to a a smooth smooth paste. Turn Tum the
the heat heat very very low low and and keep keep on al a a time, time, 5 5 dl. dl.
on working working the the brandade, adding, adding, a a little little at (scant 2*
cups) cups) oil. oiL Still Slill stirring, stirring, add 2l 2~ dl. dl. (scant
(seant } 1(seant pint" pint, 2{ pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) boiled
boilOO milk milk or or fresh fresh cream, cream, pouring pouring in in a a little
little at at a a time. time. Season Season with with salt salt and and white white
pepper. When brandade is is ready, ready, it it should should have have the
appearance appearance When the the brandade of ofa a white whi te paste, pas le,
very very smooth, smooth, with with the the consistency consistency of ofmashed
mashed potatoes. potatoes. Garnish of bread bread fried fried in in butter butter
or or oil, oil, or or Garnish with witb triangles triangles of with with cro0tes
croûtes of of French French bread, fried fried in in oil. ou. Brandade Brandade of
ofsalt salt cod cod Ià la la Nantua. BRANDADE BRANDADE nr DE uonuE MORUE A À r-.1
LA NANTUANANTUA - Prepare the the brandade brandade as as indicated indicared
above, above, moistenmoistening îng it il with with fresh cream. cream. Serve Serve
in in a a bowl, bowl, alternating alternating the the brandade brandade with with
layers layers of of a a ragoitt of of crayfish crayfish tails. tails. Surround
Surround with with strips of of truffie trume tossed lossOO in butter, butter, and
and garnish gamish with with slices slices of of bread frid in in butter. butter.
Brandade Brandade of of salt salt cod cod widr witll tnffes. truHIes. BRANDADE
BRANDADE DE DE MoRUE MORUE Aux AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES - Make Make the the brandade
brandade as as indicated indicated above. above. Add Add diced dicOO truffies
truffies tossed tossed in in butter. bUller. Cover Cover with with strips of of
truffie truffle also in butter. butter. Surround Surround with with slices sliœs of
of bread fried friOO in in also tossed tossed in butter. butter. Sah Salt cod cod
with with brown brown butter. butter. MoRUE MORlΠAU AU BEURRE BEURRE Non NOIR -
Put Put the and the trimmed, trimmed, poached poached and and drained drained cod
cod on on a a serving serving dish dish and

Boiled Boiled salt salt cod cod with wim variou various sauces. sauces. MoRUE MORUE
nounrm BOU1LLΠ- Wash

Cod in shells sbells i à la Nantua. Nantua, cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD EN EN coeurI.I.rs

COQU1LLES A À I-l LA NANTUANANTUA - Proceed Proceed as as described described in in
the the recipesfor recipes for Cod Cod Mornay Mornay in in shells shells replacing
replacing Mornay Mornay sauce sauce by by Nantua Nan/ua sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE). of truffie, truffie, heated heated in SA UCE). Before Before serving
serving put put a large large slice of butter, butter, into jnto each shell. shell.
Cod Cod in white white wine. wine. cABILLAUD CABILLAUD AU AU vrN VIN BLANc BLANC -
Using Using cod slices Of fillets, fil lets, proceed proceed as as for for Brill
Bril! in white white wine wine see BRILL). BRILL). slices or

SALT SALT COD. COD. laonus MORUE - Wash Wash thoroughly under under a a running
running tap, cut imo pieces pieces and soak soak for 24 24 to 36 hours in cold
water. water. eut into Drain Drain the the cod, put put it in in a a pan and and
cover cover the the fish fish with cold cold water. Heat, and at the the first
signs of bubbling, bubbling, skim the the water. Heat, water 15 to to waler and and
lower lower the the heat. heaL Cover Co ver the the pan, and and poach poach for
for 15 l8 18 minutes, minutes, according according to the the size of the the
pieces. The water water must must not not boil. boil. Drain Drain well weIl and and
prepare prepare according to ta the the recipe recîpe chosen. chosen. i I'anglaise
Salt lNcrltss Salt cod codA l'anglaise I. 1. uonun MORUE A Àr L'ANGLAISE - Poach
Poach the the cod cod in water. water. Drain. Drain. Garnish Garnish with with
fresh fresh parsley and and serve with with parsnips in salt water water and
drained, and and hard-boiled hard-boiled parsnips boiled boiled in egg egg sauce.
sauce. Salt SaIt cod coo ià I'anglaise J'anglaise II. n. rraonue MORUE A À
r'.Luclilrsn L'ANGLAISE - Wash Wash and and soak soak fillets flllets of of salt
salt cod cod and and cut eut into into thin thin slices, slices, gently gently
flattenflaltening fry in in butter, bUller, and and ing them. them. Dip Dip in in
egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, fry cover cover with with partly partly
melted Maitre Maître d'hitel d'hôtel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER,
Compound Compound butters). bUllers). Serve Serve with wilh boiled boiled potatoes.
potaloes. Salt Salt cod cod iIl la la bamboche. bamboche. rrronuE MORUE A À ra LA
n.lMsocHE BAMBOCHE - Cut CUl washd washed and and soaked soaked fillets /lIlets of
of cod cod into inlO thin thin slices. slices. Dip Dip in in milk, milk, then in
boiling boiling oil. oiL theu flour. flour. Twist Twist into into spirals spi raIs
and and deep-fiy deep-fry in Drain, Drain, dry dry in in a a cloth. clotho Fill
Fill a a bowl bowl with with a a macddoine macédoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables
blended blended with with butter butter or or cream, cream, and and arrange arrange
the the fillets on on top. top. Salt Salt cod cod i à la la b6chamel. ~chamel.
rraonue MORUE A À ra LA efcHltrtrr BÉCHAMEL - Poach Poach the the fish cod hot.
hot. Spread it it in in fish in in water. water. Trim Trîm and and flake, t'lake,
keeping keeping the the cod layers layers in in a a dish dish and and pour pour
over over each each layer layer a a few few tablespoons tab,lespoc:ms Bichamel
Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), with with butter butter and and
fresh fresh cream cream added. added. Salt Salt cod cod ià la la benedictine.
bénédictine. rvronue MORUE A À rn LA nfN6orcrrNE BENÉDlCT1NE - Wash Wash and (21
lb.) lb.) cod. cod. Poach, Poach, drain, drain, remove remove skin skin and and and
soak soak I 1 kg. Qt bone, bone, and and flake the the fish. fish. Dry Dry in in
the the oven oven for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Mix in a a mortar mortar
with with 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1lb.) lb.) boiled boiled potatoes
potatoes Mix in which drainOO and and dried dried in in the the oven. oven. Work
Work this this which have have been been drained mixture il absorbs absorbs 2 2dl.
dl. (+ (l pint pint, scant seant cup) cup) oil oil and and 3 3 dl. dL mixture so so
that thal it (~ pinq pint, lf li cups) cups) boiled boiled milk, milk, taking care
care to ta add add these thesc G ingredienm ingredients alternately, alternately, a
a little little at al a a time. lime. When the the mixture mixture is is smooth
smooth and and moist, moist, put put it it in in a a buttered butterOO baking
bakîng dish, dish, smooth smooth the on melted mell ed butter, butter, and and
brown brown in in the the oven. oven. the surface, pour on Brandade of salt cod is
often oflen served served under under the the cod with with trufres truffles is
name of salt salt cod cod d à la la bdnidictine. bénédictine. This This dish dish
is is a a kind kind of of name of brandade brandade ofpotatoes, of potatoes,
browned brownOO in in the the oven. oven. Sah Salt cod cod Ià la la Benoitorl
Belloiton. MoRUE MORUE A ÀrA LA nsNonoN BENOITON - Brown Brown very lightly in oil
oil and and butter butter 150 \50 g. g. (5 (5 oz, oz., lf 1-!- cups) cups) finely
finely sliced lightly in onions. on ions. Sprinkle Sprinkle with wilh 25 25 g. g.
(l (1 oz.,* oz., t cup) cup) flour ROUf and and cook cook for for a a few few
seconds. seconds. Moisten Moisten with wilh 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2J
cups) cups) red red wine wine and and l+ <t pint, ti cup) cup) fish fish fumet
(q.v.). (q.v.). Season Season with with salt salt and and 1! dl. dl. (* pepper. of
garlic garlic and and mix. mix. Cook Cook for for 15 15 pepper. Add a a crushed
crushed clove of minutes. mmutes. Add Add 5 5 sliced sliced boiled boiled potatoes,
potatoes, and and I l kg. kg. (2| (2! lb.) lb.) flaked ftaked boiled boiled cod.
cod. Tip Tip the the contents contents of of the the pan pan into inlO a a buttered
butlered baking baking dish dish in in one one movement movement (without (without
mixing) mixing) and and smooth smooth the the surface. surface. Sprinkle pouron on
meltod meltOO butter butterand and brown brown SprinkJewith with breadcrumbs,
breadcrum bs, pour in in the the oven. oven.
2s2 252
*
COD

( Rober t Carrier) Brandade of cod (Robert C arrier) of salt salt cod

253
COD
minute or two in the oven, oven. Pour over over it a few drops dry for a minute
vinegar or lemon juice. juice, Sprinkle parsley, Sprinkle with with chopped
parsley, of vinegar and desired, Pour sizzling brown brov.'Y1 butter over the and
capers, if desired. (2* lb,) lb.) fish. cod, allowing2Z1 allowing 225 g. g, (8 oz"
1 cup) butter butter for I 1 kg. kg, (2t fish, codl oz., I The cod can as follows:
folJows: Put the cooked can also be prepared as fish a serving dish, dish, pour
vinegar vinegar over over it it and and sprinklc fish on sprinkle on a of parsley
capers on the top. top, Fry sprigs of parsley in brown butter and dish, add add to
the dish. MoRUE AU BEURRE Salt cod with wilh noisette butter. MORUE BEURRE NoISETTE
NOISETrE-, over it it and Poach and trim the the cod, juiee over and Poach and trim
cod, squeeze squeeze lemon juice sprinkle parsley, Add Add a few tablespoons
tablespoons a few with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle with is as Noiselle butter
bUller (butter heated heated in in a a frying frying pan pan until unti] it it is
Noisette a hazelnut). hazelnut), brown as a MoRUE A cnirvm Salt crème. MORUE À m
L'" CRÈME - Proceed Proceed as as for i la crdme. Salt cod à Sail sauce enriched
eniched with bichamel, using béchamel bichamel sauce la béchamel, Salt cod Cl d la
crea m, cream. gratin. MORUE IA CRÈME MoRUE À A LA cnilrrs lu i la la crème crime
au au gratin. Salt AU Salt cod cod à as for cod, and and proceed as GRATIN - Trim,
poach poach and cRATIN and flake the cod, gratin. Crcam Cream cod cod gratin, Trim,
poach, rl CRÉOLE cnfor.s Salt la créole. MORL" A À LA poach, i la cr6ole. MoRUE
Salt cod à - Trim, a buttered drain the cod, a dome of it in a flake the cod. Make
a drain and and flake gratindish on a bed ofa of a tomato gratindish tomato fondue
prepared prepared as follows: (5 oz" finely chopped chopped on onions 150 g. oz, l|
cups) finely Cook 150 Cook g, (5 l.l cups) ions in in a are very tender. and butter
until Skin 4 oil and until they are tender. Skin mixture of oil remove seeds and
and crush, crush. Add these these to the onions, tomatoes, remove with 4 together
with 4 skinned, dieed peppers, Season diced sweel sweet p€ppers. Season with
garlic. Put pepper, and flavour with a little chopped garlic, salt and pepper, a
few few slices of tomato a tomato sautéed halved sweet peppers, oil, halved saut6d
in oil, little saut6ed in oil, on top of the cod, and pour skinned and sautécd
skinned pour a Iittle in the of the hot oil minutes, it. Sake Bake in oven for a a
few few minutes. the hot oil over il. the oven juice over the fish, lemon juiee
Before serving, a little Iemon fish, and serving, squeeze squeeze a sprinkle with
chopped parsley, chopped parsley. cnoeurrrEs DE MoRUE Croquettes DE MORUE
Croquettes of salt cod. CROQUETllOS - Poach salt cod, cod, leave to cool, diœ and
make in dice into very small small pieces, and croquettes. Add cooked mushrooms as
other croquettes, the same the same way as and and diced diced truffies, if
desired, desired. (See CROQUETTE,) CROQUETTE.) i l'indienne. I'indienne. MORUE
MoRUE AU AU CURRlE, cuRRrE, Curried Curried salt salt cod, co{ called called à DITE
A À L'INDIENNE poach, drain and ftake L'INDIENTc - Trim, poach, flake the cod, cod.
Put (scant pint, pint,Zf, (ser, SAUCE), 5 dL dl. (seant cups) Curry Curry sauce
sauce (see il 2i cups) it in in 5 SAUCE). gently. Serve with Riec Rice à I'indienne
(see RICE), RICE). Mix gently, d l'indienne nN ESCABÈCHE ssclnEcm -- Wash and Salt
MORUE EN m escabèche. escabCche. MoRUE Wash and Sah cod en fillets of cod cod and
and eut cut into into thin Proceed as as for for soak thin slices, slices. Proceed
soak fillets (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Anchovies à d la Ia grecque (see HORS-D'(EUVRE,
Cold horsd'œuvre), d'euvre\. Filleb of salt cod FILETs DE DE MoRUE Fillets MORUE
ORLY cod Orly. Orly. FILETS oRLy Cut the - Cut raw in a Steep for raw cod cod into
thin for 1 I hour thin slices, slices. Steep hour in a marinade of juice and
chopped parsley, parsley. Dip in light balter oil,lemon oil, lemon Juiœ batter and
parsley and deep-fry. Garnish with fried Tomato fried parsley deep-fry, and serve
with with Tomalo sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE). balb of salt I'am6ricaine. CROQUETTES
Fish balls i l'américaine. cnoquETTEs DE MORUE MoRUE saft cod à potato mixture A
r',{Mrntc,qlw -- Bind equal parts of Duchess À L'AMÉRICAINE Duchess pO/a1O flaked
cod few table(see POTATOES) POTATOES) and and cooked, ftaked cod with a a few (see
SAUCE), well and and mix. spoons Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see mix, SAUCE). Season
Season weil cool. Divide into small parts and roll into balls on a Leave to cooL
floured board. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs and and deep-fry. f10ured
board, Dip (see serve with with TomalO Tomato sauce (see Garnish with fried parsley
and serve SAUCE), SAUCE). rvronue FRITE cod into thin saft cod. MORUE Cut a a
fillet of cod Fried salt - Cut in boiled milk, milk, drain, and f10ur flour
lightly, lightly. Deep-fry slices, drain, and slices. Dip in fine saiL in oiL
Drain, dry dry in in a a cloth cloth and and season with fine salt. in oil. Drain,
season with parsley and lemon, fried parsley lemon. Garnish with fricd and f1ake
flake the uomrp EN EN FRITOT FRrror -- Poach Poach and Fritot of salt cod. MORUE
juice, pepper and in a a marinade marinade of cod, cod. Steep Steep in of oil, oil,
lemon juiee, parsley. Dip in a a light batter and and deep-fry in boiling chopped
parsley, chopped parsley and and serve Tomato sauce oil. Garnish with with fried
fried parsley with TomalO oiL serve with (see SAUCE), SAUCE). la hongroise.
hongroise. MORUE uonuE À A LA rn HONGROISE Hobrcnotsn -- Cook Cook Salt Salt cod
cod il i la paprika in chopped onions seasoned with paprika in butter until chopped
untii very seasoned with
254 254

1 kg. kg, (2+ (2t lb.) lb,) cod into pieces pieees and lay them on top tender. Cut
I of Moisten of half half the onions. onions, Cover Cover with with the remaining
remaining onions. onions, Moisten (f pint,3 g. (5 oz,) with dl. (t oz.) with l| li
dl. pint, 3 cup) dry white wine. wine, Add Add 150 g, diced mushrooms. Cover the
and cook mushrooms, Cover the pan and cook for 6 minutes. minutes, cream. Cover and
Moisten with Moisten with a few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick fresh cream, l0
minutes. simmer for 10 minutes, Salt cod à i la languedocienne. Salt
languedocicllJlc. MoRUE MORL" A À ra LA raNcuEDocrENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE I kg.Qi kg,
(2t lb.) lb,) desalted cod in pieces and cook in water. - Cut 1 Drain, and put into
a a ragofit of potatoes prepared as Drain, and put it it into ragoûl of follows:
Cut 1 I kg. kg, (2+ (2t lb.) lb,) potatoes into quarters and brown lightly in
Sprinkle with oil. Sprinkle in oiL with I 1 tablespoon flour and and fry for a few
a crushed the pan all ail the the time, Add a crushed few seconds, shaking the
time. Add garlic. Moisten clove of garEc, of the fish cooking Moisten with wi th a
little of cooking stock garni. and and add a bouquet garni, and bake in the oven
oven for 25 minutes, then Cover the dish and remove Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
the bouquet garni. rem ove the garni, Sprinkle with chopped parsley, ragoitt, pour
oil over it Place the pieces cod on top of the ragoût, it pieees of cod and finish
cooking in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes. minutes, Monus A cod à i la Salt cod Salt
la lyonnaise lyonnaise (Car0me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). MORUE À rl LA cod. Dry
in a saucepan LvoNNAISELYONNAISE Boil, Boil, drain and flake the cod, oven. over
low heat. heat, or in the oven, a gentle Dice three large on and cook onions Diee
ions and cook in in butter over a gentlc golden. Brown the cod heat cod in same
pan. Season in the the same pan, Season heat until until golden, grated nutmeg and
lemon with butter, butter, grated lem on juice, juice, and serve.' serve.' d'hOtel.
MORUE MoRUE A Salt cod i il la maitre d'hôtel. À r-4, LA udrne MAÎTRE o'u6tEL
D'HÔTELPoach and flake the cod, cod. Put in a Poach and a dish dish with alternate
layers cover with with partly of sliced sliced boiled of boiled potatoes, potatoes,
and and cover partly melted Maitre d'h6tel bUller BUTTER, Compound !JUliers),
butters). butter (see BUTTER, MaÎlre d'hôtel mayonnaise. MAyoNNATsE Sali MAYONNAISE
DE MoRUE-Trim, MORU!: Trim, poach Salt cod mayollJlaise. and flake cod. Prepare as
Cold salmon the sa same and f1ake the the cod, Prepare in the me way as mayonnaise
(see SALMON), mayonnaise SALMON). MoRUE A meuniire. MORUE Salt cod i Salt à la
meunière. À ra LA IusuNIins MEUNIÈRE Sliee raw - Slice Arrange on a long dish,
fillets of of cod, cod. Flour and fry in butter. Arrange chopped parsley. sprinkle
with lemon sprinkle Icmon juice juiee and chopped parsley, Pour sizzling butter
over the fish. fish, MoRUE MlREILLE MIRETLLE cod fillets fillets into Cut cod Salt
cod cod Mireille. Salt Mireille. MORUE - Cut pieces and brown quickly in equal
size, pieces of equal Flour, and in smokingsize. Flour, g. afondue as follows: Cook
50 g, hot oiL fondue of tomatoes as oil. Prepare a (2 chopped on and 4 skinned. oz,
1 cup) chopped onion skinned, seeded seeded and (2 oz" ion with with 4 * cup)
garlic in clove of chopped tomatoes and and 1 of choppcd chopped garlic choppcd in
oil. ] clove and 1 teaspoon with salt saffron. Cook and pepper and Season \Vith
salt and Season teaspoon saffron, all the liquid has evaporated, Moisten with 3 dl.
until almost ail evaporated. Moisten (| pint, lf wine. Cook for for 10 l0 minutes.
0: I~ cups) white wine, minutes, (see PILAF), PILAF). Cover with a border of Rice
pilaf pitaJ(see Serve with a top and sprinkle sprinkle sauce. Arrange black olives
on top the the tomato tomato sauce, parsley. with chbpped with chbpped parsley,
MoRIIE MORNAY MoRNAy Mornay. MORUE Salt Sah cod Momay. - Trim, poach and drain a
layer of Mornay pieces of cod, an ovenware ovenware dish dish on a pieces cod. Put
in an more of Sprinkle with and cover cover with with more of the sauce. Sprinkle
sauce, and sauce, the sauce, in the grated cheese, add and brown add small pieces
butter, and brown in gratcd pieees of butter, oven. oven, I'occitane. MORUE MoRUE À
A L'OCCITANE r'occrrlr.IE - Heat 5 tablecod à i l'occitane. Salt cod (6
tablespoons) oil with an ovenwith 1 I clove of garlic in an spoons (6 (l* lb,) g.
(H lb.) cooked, dish. Add the following in layers: 750 g, ware dish, 4 sliced eggs,
4 sliced boiled flaked salt cod, 3 3 sliced sliced hard-boiled salt cod, f1aked
hard-boilcd eggs, I large peeled and and diced diced tomato which has been which
has potatoes, 1 I tablespoon capers, capers. oil,24 olives, 1 cooked in in oil, 24
black olives, with sliced eggs, black Decorate the sliced hard-boiled dish with the
dish Decorate hard-boiled eggs, black lemon. Pour on a a few tablespoons slices of
peeled peeled lemon, olives olives and sliees gently. ground pepper and heat heat
gently, with freshly freshly ground oil, season season with oil, pepper and chopped
parsley. Garnish with chopped Garoish parsley, p.nnIsIENNE - Trim, MoRUE À A LA ra
PARISIENNE ir la Salt cod la parisienne. MORUE cod il poach of cod, cod. Cover with
diced hard-boiled and drain drain sliees slices of poach and hard-boiled juice
lemon juiee over and chopped chopped parsley. eggs, capers and parsley, Squeeze
lemon pour on a few few tablespoons on a tablespoons brown fish, and and pour the
fish, the brown butter in (* cup) cup) fresh fresh hreadcrumbs have been 4
tablespoons breadcrumbs have which which 4 tablespoons H fried. fried, pARMENTIER -
Cook and ftake flake MoRUE PARMENTIER cod Parmentier. MORUE Sail Salt cod -
COFFEE COFFEE
the cod cod and and put put it it in in a a buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof
dish. Cover Coyer with the a of potatoes. potatoes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with
grated grated cheese, cheese, pour pour a light light pur6e purée of melted butter
butter and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen. on melted Salt cod cod ir à la
la Provengale. Provençale. uoRue MORUE A À ra LA pnovsNqAlE PROVENÇALE - Make Make
Salt 5 cups) tomato tomato fondue fondue with oil, flavoured flavoured 5 dl. dl.
(scant (seant pint,2l pint, 2i cups) with kg. (2+ (2i lb.) lb .) flaked cod poached
in with garlic. garlic. Add Add to to it it I 1 kg. water. water. Add Add salt salt
and and pepper pepper and and sprinkle with with chopped parsley. few minutes.
minutes. parsley. Cover Coyer the the dish dish and simmer simmer for for a few
Salt cod cod en rayte. MoRIJ'E MOR (JE EN EN RAyrE RA YTE - Brown 100 g. (4 oz., oz
., Salt I in oil. Add Add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon flour. Cook Cook 1 cup) cup)
chopped onion in stirring. Moisten Moisten with ] t litre (scant (seant pint. pint,
for a few seconds, stirring. 2f 2i cups) red red wine and the the same same
quantity boiling water. Mix, Mix, season with pepper pepper and a very very little
little salt. Add 2 cloves cloyes garlic, garlic, season I 1 bouquet garni and I 1
tablespoon tomato tomato pur6e. purée. Bring Bring to the boil . boil. Deep-fry 750
g. (l+ (Ii lb.) floured, desalted cod fillets fiJlets in oil. Deep-fry Add 2
teaspoons teaspoons capers, cover Coyer the the pan, and simmer simmer for a few
Add minutes. Roogail of of salt salt cod and tomatoes tomatoes - See ROUGAIL.
Rougail cod salad. salad. sera.DE SALADE DE MoRUE MORUE - Mix slices of boiled Salt
cod chopped onion, potatoes cod. Add potatoes and and cooked, cooked, flaked flaked
cod. Add chopped chopped sprinkle with season with with oil oil and and vinegar,
vinegar, and and sprinkle with chopped season parsley, chervil and tarragon.
tarragon. parsley, gratin. MORUE fptNenos eux ÉPINARDS Salt MoRUE AUX Salt cod cod
with with spinach spinach au au gratin. (generous 1 I cRlrIwEr GRATINÉE - Poach and
flake the cod. Wash 500 g. (generous lb.) salted water, in boiling salted lb.)
spinach, for 5 minutes in spinach, parboil for ($ pint, drain and chop. pint, seant
chop. Heat Heat 2 dl. (t scant cup) oil until it begins to smoke. Put the spinach
Season with spinach into the smoking oil. Season crushed garlic. salt, pepper,
pepper, a a touch touch of nutmeg and and a a little crushed Add the flaked cod few
tablespoons Bdchamel sauce tablespoons Béchamel Add cod and a a few (see SAUCE).
put it in in a a fireproof dish. (see SAUCE). Mix Mix together and and put Shape
Shape into a dome and and smooth. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour on a little oil
and brown in the Oyen. oven.

Salt cod cod with with tomatoes ir à la la marseillaise - MoRUE MORUE AUX AUX
roMArEs TOMATES A À r^r. LA MLRssrLLArsE MARSEILLAISE - Cut Cut the cod cod into
into pieces, pieces, flour, flour, and and deep-fry in in oil. Simmer Simmer for
for l0 10 minutes minutes in in Tomatofondue Tomato fondue
(see (see

TOMATO) TOMATO) strongly strongly flavoured with with garlic. garlic. Vol-au-vent
of of salt salt cod. vol-nu-vENr VOL-AU-VENT DE DE MoRUE MORUE - Fill Fil! flaky
flaky can also pastry also Brandade of of salt cod. cod. Vol-au-vent Vol-au-vent
can pastry cases cases with Brandade be and be filled filled with with flaked
ftaked salt cod mixed mixed with with sliced sliced truffies and mushrooms,
mushrooms, and and blended blended with with either a a meatless meatless velouti
velouté sauce or a cream sauce. sauce.
The codfish type. of the codfish COD-BURBOT COD-BURBOT type. The - Freshwater fish
of and coney coney fish. as burbot, eel-pout and cod-burbot is also known as fish.
(q.v.). In In for burbot The method of cooking is is the same as as for burbot
(q.v.). in the found in the cusk,is calledy'eshwater cusk, U.S.A. is found U.S.A.
the burbot, also calledfreshwater northern Great Lakes and smaller smaller lakes
lakes and and rivers rivers across across the the northern country.. latitude of
the country

The coffee coffee cnr6lsn cer6, CAFÉIER COFFEE, COFFEE SHRUB. CAFÉ, - The It is is
a a large, large, Sudan. It in Abyssinia and the Sudan. and the shrub originated
originated in leaves. evergreen bush with dark shiny Ieaves. The dried. The and
dried. The cherry-like fruit is is soaked, depulped and parchment-like husk and and
seed is then polished to remove the parchment-like seed outer filament. grains
contain contain 6· 6'15 coffee grains Balland, the the coffee to Balland, 15 to
According to per cent I l'40 cent to 11 3'98 to l5'30 per cent nitrogenous
substances, 3·98 15·30 ·40 per (q.v.). 0'70 to 2 per cent caffeine (q.v.). fatty
matter and 0·70 products and Coffee contains alkaloids, volatile aromatic products
phenolic series. It series. It the phenolic various substances belonging to to the
substances belonging various muscle. cardiac muscle. system and the cardiac
stimulates the central nervous system stimulates first man man to perhaps legend,
legend, tells us that that the the first tells us or perhaps History, or in the
lived in Aden, who who lived the beMufti of of Aden, drink coffee coffee was was
the the Mufti drink According to another tradition, century. According ginning of
the ninth century. or Mosa certain certain Mullah, or of coffee coffee to a we owe
the discovery of we it is is said, said, called Chadely Chadely or or Scyadly,
whose name, it lem priest, called

(Nicolas) pot and grinder (Nico/as) Coffee Coffee pol andgrinde(

255 255
COFFEE

Special Special grinder grinder and and cup for for Turkish

cntree(Delius) coffee (Def;us)

is is still still venerated venerated in in the the Middle Middle East. East. This
holy holy man, man, upon finding finding himself himself often often overcome
overcome by by sleep in the the middle middle of of his his prayers, prayers,
attributed attributed his his drowsiness drowsiness to to the the half-heartedness
half-heartedness of his his devotions, devotions, and and his his conscience
conscience tormented tormented him. him. The The Prophet Prophet, touched touched
by by his his sorrow, ld led him him to encounter encounter a herdsman, herdsman,
who who told told him hirn that that each each time time his his goats goats at€
ate the the berries berries of of a a certain certain shrub, shrub, they they would
wou Id remain remain awake, awake, jumpjumping ing and and gambolling gambolling
all all night. night. The The Mullah Mullah wished wished to to see see this this
extraordinary extraordinary plan! plant, and and the the
herdsman herdsman showed showed him him a a pretty pretty shrub shrub with with a a
greyish greyish bark bark and and brilliant brilliant foliage, foliage, the the
slender slender branches branches of of which, which, at at the the bases bases

of their their of

leaves, leaves, had had bunches bunches of of small small white white flowers
flowers and and

demand among among devout devout Moslems, Moslems, who who became much much in in
demand became looked looked upon upon it it as as a a divine divine gift gift
brought brought by by an an angel angel from from heaven to to the the faithful.
faithful. The The use use of of coffee coffee spread spread from from Aden Aden to
to heaven Medina, Mecca, Mecca, and and throughout throughout the the whole whole
of of the the Middle Middle Medina, East. Coflee Coffee was was taken taken during
during prayers, prayers, in in the the mosques, mosques, even even East. in in the
the Holy Holy Temple Temple at at Mecca Mecca and and before before the the Tomb
Tomb of of the the Prophet. Prophet. Coffee, in in the the Middle Middle East,
East, is is one one of of the the first first necessities necessities of of Coffee,
life. It It was was hardly hardly known known in in Europe Europe before before the
the seventeenth seventeenth life. century. Travellers Travellers who who had had
acquired acquired the the habit habit of of drinking drinking century. this
beverage beverage in in the the East East imported imported it it at at first first
for for their their personal personal this use. Suleiman Suleiman Aga, Aga, the the
ambassador ambassador of of the the Sublime Sublime Porte Porte to to use. the
Court Court of ofLouis Louis XIV XIV in in 1669 1669 popularisod popularised coffee
coffee in in France. France. the As laid laid down downby by Turkish Turkish
custonr" custom, he he offered offered it it to to all aIl who who came came As to
visit visit him. him. The The vogue vogue for for coffee coffee spread spread
through through high high to society; it it was was soon soon in in demand demand
and and the the price price was was high. high. society; The Dutch Dutch founded
founded the the East East India India coffee coffee trade trade when when they they
The introduced coffee coffee into into Java Java about about 1690. 1690, but but it
it was was a a FrenchFrenchintroduced man, Desclieux, Desclieux, who who introduced
introduced it it into into the the western western hemihemiman, sphere in in the
the reign reign of of Louis Louis XIV. XIV. He He brought brought one one small
small sphere seedling to to Martinique. Martinique. The The plant plant flourished,
flourished, and and seedlings seedlings seedling were taken taken to to French
French Guiana. Guiana. From From there there it it spread spread to to were Central
America. America. Brazil Brazil is is the the greatest greatest producer producer
of of coffee. coffee. Central The best best varieties, varieties, known known as as
mocha mocha ot or Yemen, Yemen, came came from from The Arabia, R6union Réunion
Island Island and and Martinique. Martinique. The The names names have have Arabia,

clusters clusters of of small small berries. berries. Some Sorne were were green,
green, some sorne were were a a clear clear yellow yellow colour colour and and
others, others, which which had had reached reached full full maturity, maturity,
were were the the size, size, shape shape and and colour colour of of a a cherry.
cherry. It It was was the the coffee coffee shrub. The The Mullah, Mullah, testing
testing these these unusual unusual berries, berries, made made himhimshrub. self a
a potent potent brew, brew, and and spent spent the the night night in in a a state
state of of delicious delicious self intoxication intoxication which, which,
however, however, in in no no way way affected affected his his
intellecintellectuai capacities. capacities. tual He He told told his his Dervishes
Dervishes about about his his discovery discovery and and soon soon coffee coffee

been preserved preserved in in the the trade trade to to distinguish distinguish

three three types types of been although the designation in no way implies its
origin. origin. coffee, although Medium-sized grains, yellowish, yellowish, oblong.
Bourbon. Medium-sized The biggest biggest grains, grains, rounded rounded at at the
the ends, Martinique. The greenish greenish in colour. colour. Mo cha. Small Small
irregular grains, grains, yellowish yellowish in colour col our and Mocha. sides.
convex on both sides. in the wine, coffee gives gives the the greatest production
in Like wine, plains, but but the the best qualities qualities come come from the
highest highest parts of the torrid torrid zone, particularly particularly from
Central Central America America (Guate(Guatethe mala, Salvador, Honduras, Honduras,
Nicaragua Nicaragua and Costa Rica), as as mala, weil as from the the northern
northern part part of of South America America (Venezuela (Venezuela well and
Colombia) Colombia) whose whose products products are are always always highly
highly rated. rated. and After the the fruit has has been been depulped and dried
and the seed After are classified classified as to size and ripeness. polished, the
the seeds are polished, Coffees of of various various origins origins are usually
usually blended in different different Coffees proportions. When When green, coffee
coffee keeps keeps for for a a long Jong time, proportions. provided it is is
protected protected from damp. It is is entirely entirely devoid of provided smell.
To release release the the aroma, aroma, coffee has has to be roasted, an smell.
operation which which many many coffee lovers lovers insist on on performing
performing operation themselves. Well-roasted Well-roasted coffee coffee should be
be brown, brown, of of varying varying themselves. degrees of darkness, darkness,
but but never never black. black. If not not sufficiently sufficientJy degrees
produces a colourless colourless infusion infusion which which is rough rough and
roasted it it produces roasted astringent. If If over-roasted over-roasted it
produces produces a black, black, bitter bitter infuinfuastringent. sion. sion.
During the the industrial industriaJ roasting roasting process process a small
quantity of During sugar molasses molasses or or other other product product is is
sometimes sometimes added to to 'coat' sugar the berries. berries. This This is is
permissible permissibJe by by law. law. It gives the the berries berries a the
better colour colour and more more shiny appearance; appearance; it prevents the
the better Joss of of aroma aroma and has has the the further further advantage,
advantage, for the the mermerloss chant, of of increasing increasing the the
weight. weight. It also also enables enables him him to use use chant, inferior
quality quality or or damaged damaged grains. grains. inferior aroma for for long,
long, and and After roasting, roasting, coffee coffee does does not not keep keep
its its aroma After should not not be be roasted roasted or or purchased purchased
already already roasted roasted in in should quantities exceeding exceeding one's
one's immediate immediate needs. needs. It It is is advisable advisable quantities
to keep keep the the berries berries in in tins tins with with well-fitting well-
fitting lids. lids. Ideally, ldeally, to should be be ground ground immediately
immediately before before being being made, made, as as coffee should coffee ground
coffee coffee loses loses its its aroma aroma very very quickly. quickly. ground
Soluble coffee, coffee, more more commonly commonly known known as as instant
instant coffee, coffee, Soluble was the the invention invention of of a a Mr Mr G.
G. Washington, Washington, an an Englishman Englishman was living in in Guatemala.
Guatemala. One One day day while while waiting waiting for for his his wife wife to
to living join him him in in the the garden garden for for coffee, coffee, he he
noticed noticed on on the the spout spout of of join the silver silver coffee-pot
coffee-pot fine fine powder powder which which seemed seemed to to be be the the
the condensation of of the the coffee coffee vapours. vapours. This This intrigued
intrigued him, him, and and condensation led to to his his discovery discovery of
of soluble soluble coffee. coffee. In In 1906 1906 he he started started led

256 256
COFFEE

'Melior'

Assorted coffee pots (Larousse)

Percolator Percolator

Cona

grinder'Rallye' Coffee grinder Peugeot Coffee 'Rallye' Peugeot

Two-colour stoneware Two-colour stoneware pot

Neapolitan

put his and put his product on on the in 1909. experiments and the market market in
varieties ofinstant of instant coffee have have appeared Since that time time many
many varieties Since and with great commercial success. coffee Brewing coffee -
There are four basic methods of brewing ground coffee percolating and ground
steeping, percolating and fiItering. filtering. - boiling, steeping, filtering the
best method of extractCoffee experts consider fiItering ing the soluble soluble
essences from the coffee which is contained in a paper or cIoth cloth tilter.
filter. Boiling water is poured over, ftowing flowing a a container will not not
come container where where it will come into contact again into a with the grounds.
For perfect coffee, coffee, earthenware or or glass with receptacles should be
used, since contact with metal lowers metallowers receptacIes ofthe the quality of
the beverage. pouring coffee, ground to methd consists of The Turkish method of
pouring receptacle containing a special receptacIe containing boiling water, a
powder, into a and heating until is on on the point of boiling. This and until the
coffee is operation is repeated three times. A few drops of of co cold operation Id
water are added added to to settle coffee is is ready. are settle the the grounds,
and and the the coffee The French method consists of pouring boiling water on
finely ground coffee (but less finely ground than for Turkish perforated disks
coffee) contained between disks in in a a recepcoffee) between two perforated
called a cafetière. numerous types Among the tacle ca cafetiire. Among tacIe lied a
the numerous types of cafetiires the traditional cafetiire à cafetières is still
traditional cafetière d la la Dubelloy is still the connoissuers. favourite with
coffee connoissuers.
257

cr6ole coffee. care CRÉOLE cn6olE BOURBON BouRBoN Bourbon créole coffee. CAFÉ
Cr6ole - Créole must be strong and fragrant. Allow 1 I heaped teaspoon teaspoon
coffee must ground coffee per cup. cup. Press coffee per Press the the coffee
coffee down down weil well and ground proceed as follows follows:: proceed filter
into a bain-marie, which must not be boiling. Put the fiIter receptacle. Steep the
a separate receptacIe. Keep sorne some boiling water in a of the tablespoons of
coffee thoroughly, thoroughly, then, little by little, add tablespoons have
obtained the boiling water. Let it drip through through until you have very hot hot
in in a a coffee-pot required amount of coffee. coffee. Serve very required which
has has been scalded. which AU LAIT LAIr A LA LA CRÈME, cRiME, AU with cream, witb
with milk. CAFÉ cerE À Coffee witb stimulataddition of cream or milk to coffee
reduces its stimulatThe addition properties and Dieticians, food. Dieticians, ing
properties it into into a a real real food. ing and turns turns it it because its
indigestihowever, are indigestiare very very much against against it because of its
bility. (ll oz., g. (II Use 300 300 g. oz., 3! 3$ cups) Iced Iced coffee. coffee.
CAFÉ cAFE GLACÉGLACE - Use (1$ pints, pints, lf pints) boiling and t li pints)
freshly ground coffee and f, litre (11 (1{ lb., 2} cups) granug. (li water. Pour
into a a bowl with 575 g. infusion. chill the infusion. lated sugar. Dissolve the
sugar and chjll (lf pints, generous quart) vanillaI litre (Ii Add to the coffee 1
litre (scant pint, 2i 2f cups) flavoured cold milk, and} and ] Jjtre ftavoured cold
boiled milk, pail. If If served fresh cream. cream. Chjll in an an ice ice pail.
served with with whipped fresh Chill in cafd liégeois. liigeois. cream it is called
café
COGNAC COGNAC
of coffee cofree Uses of flavouring many hot and - Coffee is used for flavouring an
essence which which is sweets. It It is form of an cold sweets. is used used in the
the form coffee. To flavour creams, creams, roast prepared with very strong coffee.
oven, grind, and put the coffee beans on a metal sheet in the oyen, leave to infuse
Cover with with a c10th cloth and leave them into boiling boiling milk. Coyer them
(See CREAMS, ICE CREAMS for a a few CREAMS, ICE CREAMS AND few minutes. (See for
Industrially produced coffee essence and ICES, PARFAIT.) Industrially flavouring
creams. instant coffee can also be used for flavouring caffeine extracted.
extracted. CAFE DfcArsnu Coffee Coffee with with caffeine cAFE DÉCAFÉINÉ - To
caffeine, attempts render coffee less harmful and extract the caffeine, have been
from coffee coffee its its alkaloid alkaloid conmade to to extract have been made
extract from This operation, is nowaoperation, which which is stituent (see
CAFFEINE). This ofbreaking breaking up the beans days done on a large scale,
consists of chloroforn or action of chloroform by to the the action by steam,
steam, subjecting them them to other solvent, and then liquid by sorne this Iiquid
some other solvent, and then eliminating this heating and roasting. After roasting,
the coffee retains retains the same taste taste as ordinary which has has not been
treated, without having any of its coffee which stimulating properties. and roots
roots have have been Coffee Coffee substitutes substitutes - Various grains and
replace coffee, for adulteration. Apart from used coffee, or or for adulteration.
Apart to replace used to figs, dates, chicory, the most important important
adulterants include figs, chicory, (mildly astringent), malt, barley and other
other roasted acorns (mildly astringent), malt, barley and cereals, chick-peas
chick-peas and lupins (used a great deal in Brittany). harmless. The majority of
these adulterants are harmless.

Branch and nut ofcola ofcola

Town in in the district of Charente which which has COGNAC the district - Town (see
CHARENTE, given its name to famous brandies CHARENTE, given its name to famous
brandies (see SPIRITS). SPIRITS). provide the The distillation of wines wines which
which provide The the various distillation of and repasses. repasses.The of
brouillis brouillis and The Cognacs Cognacs is done by the method of Champagnes,
the Borderies and the special special qualities of the Champagnes, Fins-bois are
not apparent until the brandy has been allowed Fins-bois years in 15 to in barrels
of the white oak oak of the to 20 years to age for 15 age for to in Limousin oak.
district, oak. Several brandies are blended district, or or in blended together to
obtain a perfect bouquet. The blend is left to age. For For the boundaries of the
Cognac region and its various subdivisions, suMivisions, see map below.

extract, in wines, etc. against all cola-based Dieticians are firmly against
beverages. cola-based beverages. cream. cRiIr/D À A LA u KOLA rore -- Made by
adding a variable variable Cola am. CRÈME Cola cre cola nut nut to kind of
sweetened amount of essence of cola to sorne some kind is made by adding the
extract to a a thick substance. Often it is (crime pdtissiire), French pastry cream
(crème French pâtissière), frangipane cream, cream, cream. Cola cream, cream,
flavoured with orange essence, or butter butter cream. is used to fill or decorate
decorate cakes and pastries such as Genoese cake, choux, éclairs, 6clairs,
tartlets, etc. cake,

(A LA) preparation of fish COLBERT (A a preparation fish COLBERT to a - Name given

to before being fried which are dipped in egg and breadcrumbs before (see SOLE,
Sole Colbert). The name is also also applied applied to a special which is The name
is to a special butter butter which (see BUTTER, served with with fish fish
prepared d la la Colbert BUTTER, served prepared à Colbert (see Compound butlers).
butters). Compound FOODSTUFFS, PRESENTATION PRESENTATION OF COLD FOODSTUFFS, OF
COLD COLD COLD pLATs FRoIDS DISHES. PLATS a cold buffet,' wrote FROIDS - 'The basis
of a 'is attractive presentation. ludicious Car6me, Ois Carême, Judicious cooking
and careful seasoning are also supremely supremely important. Good jellies
clarified, perfectly transparent, are essential. These must be clarified, and of
two colours only. only. One One of these and two colours these must must be be
white, white, the a beautiful bold col colour.' other a our.' good jelly. Car€me
gives the following recipe for a good Carême 'Melt fine, fine, dry for 15 15
minutes red embers dry sugar for on red 'Melt minutes on embers to slowly. When it
is is reddish amber in in colour moisten colour slowly. bring to the boil over a
higher flame. with t ] glass water and bring transparent After it has boiled for a
few minutes it becomes becomes a transparent a beautiful caramel of a our.' Carême
beautiful reddish amber col colour.' Car€me also recommends the use of 'beautiful
sauces magnonnaises' (this was his name for mayonnaise) 'one white and the other a
fine pistachio green.' glazed with 'Entries must must be with an 'Entrées be
dressed dressed with with care, care, glazed jelly, artistically presented,
decorated light jelly, artistically presented, attractive light decorated as as
possible with trufres, simply as meat from from the simply truffies, meat breasts
of the breasts chicken and and pickled ox tongue, and garnished with chicken
pickled ox tongue, and with fine ofjelly elegant borders ... . . . these are the
rounds of jelly arranged as elegantborders handsome, cold dishes.' essentials in
the presentation of handsome, dishes.' presentation of The presentation never be of
cold cold dishes The be over dishes should should never of food should not be a
work of elaborate or finicky. A dish of architecture. In conclusion, Carême that
'they should be Car6me says that'they voicing the taste of his tas te of put on
smooth white plinths.' He was voicing own day, which no longer prevails. cold dish,
the more more handThe simpler the presentation ofa of a cold some it is. But there
are those who remain faithful to the old sorne
258

. . Grande

~Flns-boi, ~ Bons-bols

c::::- Fines borderies

Petite Champa,ne

champa,ne~~~~~~~~~

EEB:) SurJères and Aigrefeuillea ~ Eaux-de-vie' terroir

__ •• BOUNOARY OF OEPARTMENT

Map of of the Cognac-producing Cognac-producing areas Map

African tree. Its seeds seeds which which are are flattened COLA. KOLA tree. Its
COLA. KoLA - African have a a bitter, astringent flavour, and are in shape, shape,
have oblong in flavour, and They contain contain a a high proportion of chewed
chewed by by the natives. They is a a glucoside, cola red. Cola Cola is caffeine,
theobromine, and a caffeine, theobromine, a stimulant but but does does not not
have have any real real nutritive tonic and a is used as a a colouring matter, a
liquid used as matter, a Iiquid flavouring value. It is
COLZA COLZA
customs. It is for them that we quote Carême's Car€me's rules for the presentation
presentation of cold dishes: dishes: 'Fillets of and of beef. beef Dressed Dressed
in a rectangle, glazed glazed and a long rectangle, jelly. The decorated The dish
to be surrounded by a border bya border of decorated with withjelly. jelly. 'Ribs
of garnished with beef. Dressed in their natural 'Ribs ofbeef natural shape, shape,
garnished their own own bones, bones, carefully scraped to make make them their
them white; scraped to border as above. border cover 'Chauds-froids of chicken
chicken. Arrange 'Chauds-froids of Arrange in a pyramid and coyer transparent
sauce. Crown Crown with a fine black truffie and with a transparent of lightly
clumps of a white white double double cock's cock's comb. Scatter clumps comb.
Scatter a chopped jelly on the peaks of of the pile. Finish with a border of
chopped clear jelly. This is an entrie entrée of of great distinction. clear
'Chicken salads. Presented like fricassées en en chaud-froid. llke fricassdes heart
of of a a trufre, truffle, place hard-boiled egg with the heart Instead of place t
Instead of a I hard-boiled mayonnaise. lettuce on top. Serve lettuce Serve with a
good white or green mayonnaise. Make a a border border of coloured butter, hard-
boiled eggs eg:gs or or coloured Make of hard-boiled decorated with fillets of
anchovy. good forcemeat poultry. Garnish 'Galantines of a good Garnish with with a
of poultry. pickled calf or ox ox and diced, pickled using plenty of truffies,
whole and calf 's udder. Glaze lightly. tongue and calf's 'Salmis. Presented as
above. 'Noix (see VEAL). Trimmed 'Noix de into an an attractive attractive Trimmed
into veau (see de veau shape and the tetine. Glaze Glaze the remainder of the and
decorated decorated with tétine. (By tétine, noix and tCtine, Carême Car6me means
the and decorate decorate with jelly.' (By vers part of the noix de veau.) layer of
of fat whicb which co covers 'Eel galantines. galantines. Should be on a a bed bed
of of shaped, set set on be tower tower sbaped, jelly. Make a a border and
decorated decorated with jelly. Montpellier buller butter and of jelly or coloured
butter garnished garnished with sprigs of tarragon. ofjelly 'Salmon Montpellier
buller. butter. masked with wth Montpellier May be masked 'salmon steaks. May
jelly, truffie, Decorate or pickled of chicken chicken or breast of Decorate with
with jelly, truffie, breast Make is aU same colour. colour. Make all the the same
so that the decoration is tongue, so a coloured bu tter or jelly. orjelly. butter a
border of ofcoloured 'Salads jillets of sole jish. Arrange inside a 'salads of
Arrange inside a sole or or other other fish. of fillets jelly. Fillets border of
moulded jelly. salmon, Fillets of turbot, trout, salmon, turbot, trout, border me
way. brill, pike pike and way. For perch are are arranged arranged in in the same
the sa brill, and perch whole and perch, coyer mayonnaise and with white white
mayonnaise fish with cover the the fish whole perch, decorate jelly in two
colours'. ofjelly decorate with truffies. Make a border of Carême in themselves,
everything in Car€me writes, 'Cold dishes are everything or all their out ail their
man of of talent The man are nothing. nothing. The talent brings out or they are
inherent beauty; the from it it and and detracts from the man without taste
detracts makes them insipid.' In modern practice the is presented more simply.
simply. the cold dish is The old methods, inspired by architecture architecture
rather than than by the the arts and al! all the the abandoned and have been been
abandoned arts of kitchen. have of the the kitchen, garnishes of a grouped in in
the simplest manner are grouped the simplest a cold cold dish dish are possible
archiseeking after after archipossible round main disb, without seeking round the
dish, without the main tecturai tectural effects. Dishes purpose. On On in shapes
shapes adapted adapted to to their their purpose. Dishes are are made made in
these, much more more is much and decorated, decorated, is food, simply simply
presented and these, food, elegant en supports with covered with when wood wooden
supports covered formerly when elegant than than formerly butter, artistic figures
figures with so-called so-called artistic plinths ornamented ornamented with or
plinths butter, or were were used. used. The and intrinsic shape shape and of tbe
the intrinsic most of is to make the the most The object is to make colour it only
with only with surround it and to of tbe to surround main dish, dish, and colour of
the main garnishes with it. it. garnishes which would be eaten eaten with would
normally be Sorne 'futurist' Marinetti Marinetti of the ago disciples disciples of
the Italian 'futurist' Some time time ago attempted, presentarevive the decorative
presentato revive the decorative attempted, unsuccessfully, unsuccessfully, to tion
of cold dishes. tion of dishes. entirely edible, they were laden with ornament.
almost entirely They can can occasionally be Nowadays, they are rarely made. They
be culinary exhibitions. exhibitions. seen:N seen as specimens in culinary This
fish has Name given in Paris markets to hake. This has COLIN COLIN - Name (white
blanc (white flesh and and is is also also called called saumon saumon blanc flaky
flesh delicate flaky and stomach white and head and back are are grey, the stomach
salmon). The head of north north Atlantic Atlantic opening up up of Before the
silvered. Before the opening lightly silvered. instead of in fishing, the and used
used instead of salt salt cod cod in was salted salted and the colin was fishing,
European markets. (q.v.) are given for preparation given for cod The methods cod
(q.v.) are methods of of preparation The for colin. suitable for alcoholic drinks
drinks by by precipitaof alcoholic COLLAGE COLLAGE - Clarification of qualities may
spoil keeping qualities which may spoil their their keeping tion of the the solids,
solids, which tion WINE). (see WINE). gelatine. Butter Butter sauce sauce is is
somesomeword for gelatine. COLLE COLLE - Another word times called sauce colle.
gelatine to give body body to to a a COLLER COLLER Adding dissolved dissolved
gelatine to give - Adding preparation. preparation.

To slice meat or or vegetables. vegetables. COLL OP. E~CALOPER - To COLLOP.

EscALopERslice meat (family (cnou) -- Colocasia COLOCASIA. esculenta (family
COLOCASIA. CARAIBE Colocasiaesculenta cnnlInn (CHOU) (Spice Moluccas (Spice herb
native native of of the the Moluccas Araceae), Araceae), tuberous tuberous herb are
leaves as as weil well as as tubers Islands). Islands). In In the tubers are West
Indies, Indies, leaves the West (chou). name caraibe caraibe (chou). eaten as hence
the French name as cabbage, cabbage, hence the French
gourd family. family. The The multimultiCOLOCYNTH of the the gourd - Member of pulp
coloured as a a table ornament. The The pulp coloured fruit fruit is is rich rich
and and used used as table ornament. is is bitter and and a a violent purgative.

COLOMBINES mowith an an outer outer layer layer of Croquettes with of se

semoCOLOMBINES - Croquettes (See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, lina HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot
horshorslina with with Parmesan. Parmesan. (See d'œuvre.) d euvre.)

Moule Moule à i colonne colonne (Dehillerin. (D ehillerin. Phol. Itr ous se) Pho t.
Larousse)

COLONNE COLONNE -- Implement cut Implement used used to core apples apples and and
cut to core vegetables lied moule vegetables into into a a column. column. Also
Also ca called d colonne. colonne. moule à COLOURINGS. COLOURINGS. COLORANTS in The
colourings colourings used used in coroRANrs -- The cookery, and confectionary,
confectionary, are are mainly mainly of of cookery, cake-making, cake-making, and
vegetable harmless; sorne vegetable origin, origin, and and are are harmless; some
are are of of insect insect origin, origin, like like the the carmine carmine of of
cochineal; cochineal; or or of of minerai mineral origin, origin, such such as as
those derived from from coal. those derived coal. The The colouring is caramel,
colouring most most often often used used in in cooking cooking is caramel,
especially pot-au-feu, look of especially to improve the of the stock of of pot-au-
feu, the look to improve the stock meat glazes and meat glazes and sauces. Liquid
caramel is obtained obtained by sauces. Liquid caramel is by cooking (see cooking
sugar little water water until it turns sugar with with aa little until it turns
dark dark (see SUGAR). SUGAR). COLZA plant sometimes rape seed, is an an oily
sometimes COLZL -- Colza, Colza, or or rape seed, is oily plant used adulterate
mustard mustard seed. used to to adulterate seed.

COLD at an an exexkept at FRoIDE -- Room Room kept COLD ROOM. ROOM. CHAMBRE cHAMBRE
FROIDE tremely preserving and for preserving storing and storing and used used for
tremely low temperature temperature and perishable perishable foods. foods.
COLIFICHET - A dry made for for without butter or salt, salt, made dry cake, cake,
witbout butter or COLIFICHET-A birds. birds. In (set pieces), pAfisserie, pièces
piices montées pieces), which which decorated decorated ln pâtisserie, montdes (set
the were called called colifichets, colifichets, to to distinguish distinguish and
buffets the table table and buffets were them proper dishes. colifichets were were
Although the the colifichets from the dishes. Although them from the proper

259 259
COMFITS COMFITS
COMFITS. COMFJTS. coNFITs CONFITS - Fruits or or vegetables vegetables preserved
preserved in sugar, or vinegar vinegar (see (see GHERKINS, G HERKINS, CAPERS,
CAPERS, sugar, brandy, brandy, or
FRUTTS). FRUITS).

COMFREY. COMFREY. coNsouDE CONSOUDE - Name of of various various plants, plants,

some sorne of which which are edible edibJe and and used used in in salad. saJad,
or cooked. cooked, like corncornsalad. salad.

and of fibre. and remove the the strips strips of fibre. Cook Cook for for 5
minutes minutes in in a heavy (l pint, heavy sugar syrup syrup - 450 450 g. (l (1
lb., 2 cups) sugar to 6 dl. (1 2j 2t cups) cups) water. Flavour Flavour with
kirsch. Cherry compote compote J. COMPOTE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Put the stoned
stoned I. colrpors
300 g. (11 oz.,l| OZ., 1t cups) cups) sugar sugar for each I 1 ke.QI kg. (2i lb.)
cherries cherries (net (net weight). weight). Cook Cook with with the lid lid on on
for for 8 8 minutes minutes over over low 10w heat.

cherries cherries in a sugar sugar syrup which which has been been cooked to the
large large

ball stage stage (119"-122'C.,246-252'F.) (l19°-122°C., 246°-252°F.) (see (see

SUGAR). ball SUGAR). Use

(ll

of of the the Chicken Chickenfricassée, for which which one of of the the oldest
oldest culinary fricassie, for treatises treatises (1290),le (1290), le Traitd
Traité oit où l'on mseigne enseigne dfaire àfaire et appareiller appareiller et the
following following recipe: recipe: et assaisonner assaisonner toutes toutes
viandes, viandes, gives the 'If 'If you you wish wish to to make make cominie
cominée de de gelines, take the chickens chickens and and cook cook them them in in
wine wine and and water, water, boil them, them, skim offthe off the fat, and and
take take out the the chickens. cbickens. Take egg yolks, yolks, beat beat them
well, weil, and and dilute them them with with chicken stock. Put Put in some sorne
cumin. cumin, and put put all ail together. together. There There is is your your
cominie.' cominée.'

COMINEE COMJNÉE DE GELINES GELINES (Ancient recipe) recipe) - The ancestor ancestor

Stir from time to time. Arrange the cherries in a a dish dish and pour pour the
cooking cooking syrup over. Flavour with kirsch or cherry
brandy. brandy. Cherry Cherry compote compote II. cotlrpors COMPOTE DE cERrsEs
CERISES - Put the stoned stoned cherries in a a deep deep dish dish with a a bag
containing 12 12 crushed crushed kernels. kernels. Sprinkle Sprinkle generously
generously with with powdered sugar. When the cherries are swimming swimming in
their their own own juice, juice, cook in the oven oyen in cherries a covered
covered dish. dish. Fig Fig compote compote (dried (dried figs). figs). courorc
COMPOTE DE DE FrcuEs FIGUES sicnes SÈCHES Prepared Prepared in the same same way
way as Prune Prune compote compote (see (see below). COMPOTE DE DE Frcuns FIGUES
ruicnns FRAÎCHES (fresb figs). figs). corrlrorE Fig compote (fresh Peel the figs,
which should should be ripe and and of equal size; put Peel in boiling boiling
syrup syrup - 350 350 g. (12 oz.,lj OZ., 11 cups) cups) sugar sugar to 6 dl. them
in (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water - flavoured flavoured with with
vanilla. Poach Poach for a few few minutes. minutes. Pour Pour the the cooking
cooking syrup over over the the fruit arranged in a dish. dish. Pear compote.
compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE porREs POIRES - If If the pears are small, Pear
leave leave them them whole, whole, and and peel peel them. them. If If they are
large, cut into quarters quarters or or halves halves and and trim trim them. them.
Poach the the fruit fruit in boiling boiling vanilla vanilla syrup - 350 g. (12
oz., OZ., Poach l| 1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 6 dl. (l (1 pint,2l pint,
2-!- cups) cups) water - cooking cooking only lightly if if soft. soft. lightly If
this this compote compote is is made with with firm pears pears (cooking pears)
pears) If rub the the fruit fruit with with lemon Jemon and and blanch blanch them
them for a few few minutes minutes rub before putting putting them them in in the
the vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured cooking cooking syrup. before Pineapple
compote. compote. coMporn COMPOTE D'ANANAS D'ANANAS - Remove Remove the the skin
Pineapple and core core of of a a pineapple. pineapple. Slice Slice the the fruit
and cook cook in vanillavanillaand flavoured flavoured syrup. syrup. Arrange
Arrange the the fruit fruit in a dish and pour pour the the cooking syrup over it.
Flavour Flavour with kirsch kirsch or any other other liqueur. liqueur. This
compote can can be be made made with with tinned tinned pineapple. pineapple. This
compote Plun Plum compote. compote. coMporn COMPOTE DE DE pRUNEs PRUNES - Made Made
particularly particularly with with mirabelle mirabelle plums pJums or or
greengages, greengages, but but also also with with any any kind kind of plum.
plum. of Stone the the fruit fruit and and poach poach in in a a syrup syrup of of
350 350 g. g. (12 oz., OZ., l$ I-!Stone cups) sugar sugar to to 6 6 dl. (l (1 pint,
pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water water for for 10 10 to to 12 12 cups) minutes.
minutes. Prune compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE eRUNEAUX PRUNEAlJX - Soak
Soak the the prunes prunes Prune in in cold cold water water until until they they
swell. sweJI. Cook Cook in in a syrup syrup of of 350 350 g. g. (12 (12 oz., OZ.,
1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 6 6 dl. dl. (1 pint, 2\ 2-!- cups) cups) liquid,
Iiquid, consisting of of half half red red wine wine and and half half water,
water, flavoured flavoured with with consisting cinnamon or with with lemon lemon
zest. zest. Cook Cook very very gently. gently. This This cinnamon compote can can
also also be be prepared prepared in in a a syrup syrup made made without without
the the compote wine. wine. Ali dried dried fruit fruit compotes compotes are are
made made in in the the same same way, way, cookcookAll ing the the fruit fruit in
in a a thin thin syrup. syrup. ing Raspberry compote. compote. coMporr COMPOTE DE
DE FRAMBorsns FRAMBOISES - Arrange Arrange the the Raspber-ry fruit in in a a deep
deep dish. dish. Pour Pour over over a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of
boiling boiling fruit syrup. syrup. Strawberry compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE
DE FRArsEs FRAISES - Prepared Prepared in in the the Strawberry same way way as as
Raspberry Raspberry compote. compote. same

COMPOTE fresh or COMPOTE - Preparation Preparation of offresh or dried dried fruit

fruit in in a thick thick or thin thin syrup, flavoured flavoured or not not with
with various various aromatics aromatics such such as vanilla; orange zest; zest;
cinnamon cinnamon; clove; etc. etc. vanilla; lemon lemon or orange ; clove; Dried
Dried fruits, prunes, prunes, apricots, apricots, apples, apples, pears, pears,
etc., etc., must must be be soaked soaked for for some sorne time time in cold cold
water water before before being being cooked in in
the the syrup. syrup. Compotes Compotes are are usually usually served served cold.
cold. They They can can be be sprinkled sprinkled with with kirsch kirsch or or
some SOrne other other liqueur. liqueur. Simple Simple compotes compotes consist
consist of one type type of fruit cooked cooked in in syrup. syrup. Compotes
Compotes composies composées consist consist of a macidoine macédoine of various
various fruits, arranged in in a a dish. dish. The The syrup syrup in in which
which they they have have been been fruits, arranged cooked cooked is is poured
poured over over them, them, or they they can can be be covered covered with wi th
a a fruit fruit jelly jelly (quince, (quince, gooseberry, gooseberry, apple, apple,
etc.). etc.). The The word word is is also also used used for for certain certain
dishes dishes (of (of pigeon, pigeon, partridge) partridge) which which have have
been been cooked cooked for for a a considerable considerable time. time.

-
-

l|

(l

Fruit Fruit compote compote

COMPOTES COMPOTES OF OF FRESH FRESH AND AND DRIED DRlED FRUITS. FRUITS.
POTES ] POTES DE DE FRUITS FRUITS FRAIS FRAIS ET ET SECS SECS:

COMcorr,r-

fruit, fruit, cored cored and and peeled, peeled, or or with with fruit fruit cut
cut into into halves halves or or
quarters, quarters, peeled peeled and and with with the the pips pips removed.
removed. Put Put the the fruit fruit in in a a syrup of350 350 g. g. (12 (12 o2.,1|
OZ., 1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups)
cups) syrup of water, water, with with or or without without vanilla vanilla
flavouring. flavouring. Remove Remove the the pieces pieces as as soon soon as as
they they are are cooked, cooked, arrange arrange them them in in a a dish dish and
and pour pour the the cooking cooking syrup syrup over over the the fruit. fruit.
Apricot COMPOTE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS - Halve Halve the the apriapriApricot
compote. compote. coMporE cots; cots; break break open open the the stones stones
and and blanch blanch the the kernels; kernels; cook cook the the fruit fruit in in
a a syrup syrup- 350 350g. g. (12 (12 oz.,l! OZ., 1-!- cups) cu ps) sugar sugar to
to 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water. water. Arrange Arrange
the the apricot apricot halves halves in in a a dish dish and and put put half a
kernel halfa kernel on on each each fruit. fruit. Pour Pour over over the the
cooking cooking syrup. syrup. Banana COMPOTE DE DE BANAr\iEs BANANES - Peel Peel
the the bananas bananas Banana compote. compote. coMporE

Apple Apple compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE poMMEs POMMES - Made Made with
with whole whole

COMPOTES OF OF PRESERVED PRESERVED FRUITS. FRUITS. coMporEs COMPOTES COMPOTES

FRUITS EN EN CONSERVE: CONSERVE: FRUITS

DE DE

Apricot compote. compote. corr,rporE COMPOTE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS - Choose Choose

slightly slightJy Apricot under-ripe fruit. fruit. Prick Prick them them and and
put put in in a a basin. basin. Cover Coyer with with under-ripe Soak in in the the
syrup syrup for for 3 3 hours. hours. a very very heavy heavy cold cold syrup.
syrup. Soak a While the the fruit fruit is is soaking soaking prepare prepare a a
26 26° syrup syrup (see (see While SUGAR) with with lump lump sugar. sugar. SUGAR)
syrup with with white white of of egg egg - one one white white for for 2 2 litres
litres CJarify the the syrup Clarify 260 260
CONDIMENTS
(3| pints, 4t 4j pints) syrup. Strain the syrup through (3-t through a straincloth.
Leave to cool. ing bag or clotho wide-mouthed jars and Drain the apricots. Put them
into wide-mouthed cover with the boiling, clarified clarified syrup so so that it
reaches at coyer (l inch) above the level of the fruit. Fix on the tops least 3 cm.
(J and screw bands tightly, then give the bands one half-turn to loosen them. Place
a wire wire rack in the bottom of a large preserving pan and arrange the bottles on
it so they do do not touch. and touch. Fill the pan with with cold cold water,
water, making making sure sure it it covers covers the jars. pan jars. Boil a full
JO minutes. Remove the bottles, wipe and rapidly for a full l0 away from the light.
seal them. Keep in a cool place, away can also also be be used for the compote.
They Halved apricots can put in are put a basin and and soaked soaked in a a heavy
heavy syrup. are in a syrup. Half the number of stones peeled and stones are are
cracked, the kernels peeled number the kernels and put into the preserving
preserving jars with the apricots. and boiling is is the same as above. The process
for capping and peacheg plums plums and Compote of cherries, cherrieg peaches, and
other fruits fruits for Compote preserving prepared for preserving preserving in
the All these fruits are prepared preserving - Ali same way as apricots. They are
boiled for a longer or shorter time, depending on their variety.
COMPOTIER Deep dish on a raised base, used for fruits, COMPOTIER - Deep compotes,
jams and and other co cold Id sweets. China or crystal fruit compotes, used for
fresh fruits. dishes are also used
added to to food to CONDIMENTS - Aromatic substances, added improve flavour.
improve its flavour. is used for substances which are The term used for The term
'seasoning' is 'condiments' apply to while 'condiments' to those added added during
cooking, cooking, while food already prepared. The two words added at the table to
food speech. are interchangeable in current speech. vegetable saltpetre, are of of
vegetable AU All condiments, e~cept except salt, and saltpetre, origin, origin, and
vegetarian peoples, particularly those who live in hot countries, use strong
condiments the most. according to Condiments Condiments are are classed, classed,
according to their their dominant flavour, into acid, aromatic, bitter, salt,
sweet, etc. Acid condiments condimenb - Vinegar, verjuice, the juice of lemon or
and encourage encourage salivary tamarind, etc. buds and etc. affect the the taste
taste buds preserved in vinegar; sai salted all vegeta vegetables in vinegar; ted
secretion. So bles preserved So do do ail acid through cucumbers, become acid
cucumbers, which which become through fermentation; sweetcapers; nasturtium
nasturtium flowers; Indian pickles; purslane; sweetcapers; little on onions
cherries; sea-fennel sea-fennel or or samphire; samphire; little ions in sour sour
cherries; in vinegar. vinegar; melon in example Bitter aromatic condiments is the
chief example condiments - Pepper is qualities are are largely lost in in the its
aromatic aromatic qualities of this this group; its its flavour it should be
cooking, and to preserve its process of ofcooking, added after cooking. added and
ginger can can be Paprika, the various types of pimento, and flavour of ofpepper.
used to reinforce the flavour pepper. are dill, aromatic condiments condiments are
dill, anise, Among the Among the main main aromatic chervil, coriander, coriander,
cumin, basil, cocoa, cocoa, coffee, coffee, cinnamon, cinnamon, chervil, basil,
fennel, juniper, clove, clove, bay, turmeric, bay, mace, mint, turmeric, tarragon,
tarragon, fennel, parsley, saffron, vanilla, sage, savory, savory, thyme, thyme,
vanilla, nutmeg, nutmeg, parsley, saffron, sage, aromatic vegetables. and I~mon
lemon zest, zest, and various aromatic orange and onion, shallot, Welsh on Bitter
ion, spring Bitter condiments condiments - Garlic, shallot, (Spanish garlic),
leeks, are vegetable vegetable onion, onion, rocamble (Spanish sometimes used
seasonings rather than condiments, but are sometimes and horseradish horseradish
are are true raw as as condiments; raw mus tard and condiments; mustard condiments,
stimulating the appetite. Fat condiments condiments - The fatty elements (oils,
butter, fats) are used for sometimes sometimes classed as condiments, because they
are used seasoning. They are really food, not condiments. There are are many Ready-
made many condiments, Ready-made condiments condiments - There distinctive taste
accordprepared industrially, which have a distinctive in which which the specific
ingredients are ing to the proportions in They include English sauces sauces
(Worcestershire, used. include the used. They the English Harvey, etc.), etc.),
ketchups, curry powders, prepared mustards, soy sauce, etc. is the only chloride or
sea-salt is Salt condiments condiments - Sodium chloride minerai origin. Its
importance importance is is undertable condiment condiment of mineral lined by its
frequent use in metaphors.

COMTECOMTÉ - See CHEESE.

French terrn for rough rough chopping, CONCASSER chopping, or term for - French
pounding in a mortar. pounding
(Pfltisserie) piece of left-over Ftaky CONDE (Pâtisserie) a piece CONDÉ Flaky out a
- Roll out (see DOUGH) into a a strip about about 25 25 cm. pastry (see cm. (10
inches) (* inch) thick. Coyer long, 10 l0 cm. cm. (4 inches) wide and 1 long, cm.
(± Cover * cm. with a layer of royal almond icing called Condé Condi (see below).
(l| inches) wide. Lift rectangles 4 cm. cm. (l-t Divide the strip into rectangles
them with the blade of a large !mife knife and put them them blade of them on a
baking tray. Powder with icing sugar. Cook in a gentle oyen. oven. Preparation of
the g. (4 (4 oz., the Condé Condd 100 g. together 100 - Beat together and2 sugar
and eggwhites. scant cup) icing sugar 2 egg whites. When the mixture mixture is add
enough finely chopped, peeled almonds to make a stiff, add thick paste. pas te.

Two much used Two condiments: condiments: pickled gherkins pickled and mustard

Condiment set by Nicolas (1763) Nicolas Lefèvre Lefdvre (1763) Condiment (Arts
décoratifs. ddcoratifs. Phot. Larousse) (Arts Larousse)

261 261
CONDIMENT SET SET CONDIMENT
Salt is is both both an an element part of element which which is is n integral
integral part of our our Salt and body fluids. and bodv fluids, and an an act
tissues and ac al condiment. condiment. Ali All our our tissues foods contain
contain varying varying amounts amounts of in spite of sa t;; in spite of of this,
this, there there foods few dishes are few dishes which which are are not not
improv im by the the addition addition of of il. it. are by (azotate or Saltpetre
(azotate potassium n or potassium n trate) rate) is is hardly hardly used in used
in Saltpetre cooking, but it is is employed but it employed in in the .ing industry
industry to the sa ting accento accencooking, tuate the red colouring the red
colouring of of meats. meats. tuate (syrups, etc.) Sweet condiments condiments
Sugar and and its its erivatives ivatives (syrups, etc.) Sweet - Sugar as weil well
as as honeys, honeys, are are foods foods and and condiments. condiments. In In
sorne some as (whortleberri gooseberries) countries, compotes compotes
(whortleberries gooseberries) are are used used countries, as condiments.
condiments. Having Having a a flavour flavour wh ch h is is sweet and sour sour at
at sweet and as the same same time, are often often sery time, they they are with
roast roast or or boiled boiled the with particularly game. game. meats,
particularly meats, Sweet condiments condiments also also include he aceto-dolce of
the Sweet preserve of Italians, a a preserve fruit and of fruit and 'egetableg in
vinegar, vinegar, egetables in Italians, sweetened with concentrated grape grape .
ust or <ir wiih with honey, and and sweetened preserved fruits fruits with mustard.
preserved
(Preserved pork) (Gascon cookery) porc (Preserved pork) (Gascon de porc cookery) --
Pieces Confit de Pieces Confit of pork, marinated marinated in in salt with spices,
in melted melted salt with spices, and and cookeà cookeri in of"pork, pork fat.
fat. pork porc, which great deal which is de porc, is used in Gascon Confit de used
a a great deal in Gascon Confit preserved instoneware pots in cookery, is is
preserved in-stoneware pots in the the same same way way as as cookery, Confit
d'oie. d oie. Confit

CONDIMENT SET. HUILLIER SET. HUILLlER of tableware, tableware, often often

CONDIMENT - Pi ce of glass bottles in a consisting of two glass l, wooden or a m
tal, pottery or pottery consisting frame. Formerly, Formerly, it it was was a a
magnifice magni piece of silver, silver, placed frame. t piece on the table for
decoration rather th t use. on
CONFECTIONER'S CUST CUSTARD. CONFECTIONER'S ARD. CREAMS, French pastry cream. CREA
MS, French

plrrssIinn

See

CONFECTIONERY. CONFISERIE coNFrsERrE transformation of of CONFECTIONERY. - he

transformation into sweets. sweets. It It tends more and and more to be an industry
industrv be an sugar into of which the products are sold in sp ial ial shops. One
branch of of confectionery confectionery is is the ma making c colates. tes. Long
ago ago the the of king of ch Egyptians, the Arabs and and the the Çhine Chi e
prepared sweetmeats fruitjuices juices and hon y.. In Europe the use of based on
various fruit widespread until after he Crusades, Crusades. and and even sugar was
not widespread for a lons time a long time in the hands of apothecaries.
apothecaries. then remained for In the fifteenth fifteenth century the crystalli
fruits of Auvergne, crystalli ed fruits In flavoured with mber the sugared almonds
ftavoured and the ber or musk, and 'gigembrats de de Montpellier' enjoyed enjoyed
well-deserved well-deserved reputa'gigembrats regulations promu tion. In 1660, the
regulations Colbert underpromul ated by Colbert lined importance of man acture of
the ure of of the the sugared the manu lined the the importance almonds of of
Verdun. In Diderot's En clopédie several plates work of of the confectioner. With
the the discovery of the confectioner. show the the work sugar beet juice of
achinery in the ninesugar juice and the advance advance of teenth century, sweet-
making develo develo ed rapidly. CONFIT d k, turkey, etc., cooked CONFIT - Meat of
pork, goose, du in its own fat, and kept covered covered in th same fat to prevent
it coming coming in contact with the air. (Gascm cookery) Confit d'oie (Preserved
(Preserved goose) goose) (Gascon - Pieces of and preserved stoneware of goose,
goose, cooked in in goose goose fat fat and preserved in stoneware pots. (See (See
GOOSE). GOOSE).

(Wine Lodges) The first wine VII\EUSES (Wine Indges) -- The first wine CONFRÉRIES
COMRfRIES VINEUSES principal aim lodges date date back back to Middle Ages. to the
the Middle Ages. Their Their principal airri lodges was mu mutual brotherly aid,
aid, but but sorne some of of them a also took was tuai brotherly them also took a
protective interest quality of interest in in the The first the quality wine. The
first of of the of wine. protective the prei;ent day (the Sacavins confririas was
day confréries was founded founded in in 1905 1905 (the Sacavins present The
Chevaliers (1934), which dlAnjou). The Chevaliers du du tâte-vin tdte-vin (1934),
which followed followed d'.ARjOU). i[ was was such a commercial such a commercial
success success that after the that after Second il', the Second World War War more
more and confriries were and more more confréries were established.They· WoFid
established. They' all adhered adhered to mediaeval corporato the the spirit spirit
and and tradition tradition of of mediaeval corporaail confrdnes or tive confréries
or ancient ancient Bacchic Bacchic societies. In fact, fact, most societies. In of
most of tive are closer in character them are character to latter despite closer in
to the the latter despite the the fact fact that them that some of of their
ceremonial ceremonial tends towards the mediaeval style. sorne style. the mediaeval
Their celebrations celebrations are are conducted conducted according according to
long Their a long to a ruling: chapters, established ruling: chapters, inauguration
inauguration of established of members, members, generously laced banquets
generously laced with with local local wines, wines, traditional banquets
traditional all carried carried out out in entertainment, ail in an an atmosphere
atmosphere of of high entertainment, (usually rather earthy) spirits and and
(usually good humour. earthy) good spirits The importance importance of of these
these confréries confrdries is is undeniable. They The undeniable. They people,
French have taught taught people, French and and foreigners foreigners alike,
alike, to know have to know and better better appreciate appreciate French French
wines. wines. There There are and are almost almost enough of of them them now,
however; if there are are many more enough more their their diminished.
effectiveness will be diminished. The list list of of confréries confriries that
follows is is divided into their The that follows divided into their with comments
regional categories, with comments on on the important the most important of them.

ALSACE La Confrérie Confr6rie Saint-Etienne d'Alsace question La d'Alsace Without

question - Without the oldest known known confrérie confrdrie vineuse; vineuse;
established the established in in Ammerin the schwihr in fourteenth century the
fourteenth century and schwihr and reinstated reinstated after after the in 1947.
Second World War in It has has preserved the the mediaeval hierarchies hierarchies
inherited from the corporations. corporations. There There are are three the
progressive stages three progressive stages laid laid down for novices: apprentice,
companion, master. master. There is is also a a special special category, category,
hors also hors cadre, cadre, that that of of 'honorary member'. This is is reserved
for official personalities whom the confrdrie considers considers worthy of
confrérie of the dignity.

BORDEAUX _ BORDEAUXiaCommanderie La Commanderie du bontemps de Médoc - In M6doc et

des Graves GravesM6doc, Médoc, bontemps is the name for the wooden bowl in which
the vine-grower vine-grower beats beats the egg whites which be used to which will
will be
Confectioners Confeclioners at al work (from (from Diderot's Diderol's Enc
Encyclopédie) y c lopldie)

262
CONFRERIES CONFRÉRIES

ALSACE
Confr6rie Confrérie Saint-Etienne d'Alsace d'Alsace Saint-Étienne Commanderie du
bontemps Commanderie M6doc et des Graves de Médoc

BORDELAIS BORDELAIS
Conn6tablie Connétablie de Guyenne

Jurat de Saint-Émilion Saint-Emilion

(claify) his wine. This confrérie, confrine, founded in in 1949, has coller
(c1arify) chosen this its name name and and symbol, and and for object for its
chosen for their this object ruffie of white muslin traditional headgear, headgear,
too, too, since since the traditional the rume decorates the hat resembles stiffiy
stiffy whisked egg whites. that decorates Every year, and particularly in June for
the flower festival, (vine proclamation of September for the proclamation vendanges
(vine of the vendanges and in September celebrated in harvest), the chapters of the
Commanderie Commandene are celebrated M6doc château. chdteau. They setting of of
sorne some Graves Graves or Médoc the splendid setting are followed by marvellous
spectacles and a banquet graced by the best wines. Commanderie du bontemps de
Sainte-Croix-du-Mont La Commanderie Sainte-Croix-du-Mont This, the most recent of
the Bordeaux Bordeatx confréries, confriries, also cornes comes banner of of
bontemps. It represents the white dessert under the banner Garonne. wines of the
right bank of the Garonne.

Commanderie du bontemps de Sauternes La Commanderie et Barsac - The Sauterneset

Barsac-The great white dessert dessert wines of of Sauternes and Barsac have
rallied great have rallied of their neighbouring neighbouring red wines. But while
emblem oftheir under the emblem robes of latter are the robes of the are bordeaux-
coloured, the the vinethe latter bordeaux-coloured, the growers of of Sauternes
Sauternes drape drape themselves themselves in in golden-hued growers colour of
their wines. velvet, the colour de Guyenne The name La Connétablie name of this
Connetablie de confrdrie this confrérie - The refers to administrative divisions
divisions of ancient France. It refers to the administrative itself the task of of
promoting the wines wines of the has taken upon itself Premiires Côtes C6tes de
Bordeaux. The meetings are held held in the Premières meetings are chiteau of the
duc d'Epernon d'Epernon at Cadillac. magnificent château Cadillac. Le Grand Grand
Conseil This is is the Le Conseil du du vin vin de de Bordeaux Bordeaux - This
amalgamation of several Bordeaux confréries. confriries. amalgamation La Jurade de
Saint-Émilion - It was John 'Lackland', King LaJurade John'Lackland', Saint-
fmilioncharter in Falaise Falaise in 1199 giving the of of England, who signed a
charter Saint-Emilion. For six centufreedom of the communes to to Saint-Émilion.
ries this ries was to govern the jurade, the equivalent of this charter was the
town council of Saint-Émilion. Saint-Emilion. powers of the jurade extended domain
of of wine, extended to the domain The powers vendanges, as weil well and consisted
consisted of the proclamation of the vendanges, and pursuance of as control of the
quality of the wines. It was in pursuance functions that confririe of Saint-Émilion
Saint-Emilion these ancient functions that the confrérie when it it was adopted
name of Jurade Jurade when was 'resurrected' in adopted the the name 1948. by
torchlight in chapters are are held Nowadays the held by the official chapters
carved out rock. One of the the the monolithic church church carved out of the the
rock. proclamation of of the most important is the most important occasions
occasions is the proclamation vendangesby vendanges by the jurats from the top of
the 'Tour 'Tour du roi'.

BOURGOGNE BOURGOGNE
Compagnon Compagnon du Beaujolais Chevalier Chevalier du Tastevin
BURGUNDY _ BURGUNDYdr BeaujolaisBeaujolais - This confrérie, confrCne, as its name
Les Compagnons Compagnons du guilds; indicates, takes its inspiration from the
ancient trade guilds; (Parisian dut its Paris section is its is called le parisien
(parisian y). le Devoir parisim duty). and the whole of Its aim is to make the
wines of Beaujolais and province better known and appreciated. Its this picturesque
province Villefranche-sur-Sa6ne. headquarters are at Villefranche-sur-Saône.
Confr6rie des chevaliers du tâte-vin tflte-vin in 1934 La Confrérie F ounded in -
Founded at Nuits-Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges, this this confrérie confrdrue
continues to to be at be exBurgundy wine tremely successful. Its activities to
publicise Burgundy have been It has has branches have in many many foreign been
considerable. It branches in countries; the commanderie commanderie in intheUnited
States, for example, example, countries; the United States,
263 263
CONFRÉRIES CONFRERIES

REGIoN RÉGION MEDITERRANEENNE MÉDITERRANÉENNE

Chevalier Chevalier M6duse de la Méduse Confr6rie Rabelais Confrérie <dive
bouteille» de la «dive bouteille>

SUD-OUEST
Viguerie Viguerie royale de Jurançon Jurangon

is well headquarters are in the beautiful château chdteau known. Its beadquarters
weil known. main celebrations confririe of celebrations of of the confrérie of
Clos-Vougeot, Clos-Vougeot, where the main chaptels. The latter take place:
tastevinages and official chapters. latter take take and Burgundy chants form of a
a spectacle enlivened by chants and by Burgundy the fonn copious disnées
dlsnleswashed down with followed by copious followed washed down with the the
bestwines. best wines. people. foreigners as well weil as French people. It is
attended by many foreigners kind are held several times a year, a times a this kind
Celebrations of this Hospices de de Beaune. special one being the wine sale of the
Hospices This is Glorianves of Buris the important of the This the most important
the Trois Glorieuses year, near 22 January, the confrérie confrdrie organises a
gundy. Each year, celebration in in one of tbe Saint-Vincent's Saint-Vincent's day
celebration the villages of the honour of the patron saint of the vine-growers.
Côte COte in honour

This confrérie, La Confrérie de Mlcon confririe, La Mâcon Confr6rie Saint-Vincent

Saint-Vincent de - This ofthe ofthe also under the protection of the patron patron
saint of the vine, has MAcon and represents the wines wines of the its headquarters
in in Mâcon its weil as tbose Pouilly-Fuissé. whole region as well those of
Pouilly-Fuiss6. Les Piliers Plliers cbablisiens chablisiern of Piliers? It is not -
Why this name of 'pillars of members are are 'pillars of wines', because because
the wines', but but because the members Burgundy. This nicknamed the 'Golden Gate'
of Burgundy. Chablis is nicknamed confririe has borrowed borrowed its name and its
hierarchy bierarchy very lively confrérie grand master is architecture. The The
grand is called called the from from architecture. the grandThe chapters are
conducted with earthy good with earthy architrave. The chapters are yearo at at the
Each year, humour in in a a Chablisien Chablisien cellar. cellar. Each the end end
of joyous feast 'Saint-Cochon' November, there is the feast of of 'Saint-Cochon'
November, there is the joyous ('Saint Sucking-pig'). Sucking-pig'),
CHAMPAGNECHAMPAGNE des coteaux This Champenois confrérie confririe is is the
L'Ordre des the - This a Bacchic societyfounded revival of a society founded by
Saint-Evremond, Saint-Evremond, le le comte marquis et le comte d'Olonne. d'Olonne.
Boileau marquis de de Bois-Dauphin et alludes to in his The present-day to tbis
this order order in his third third satire. present-day alludes satire. The
confririe holds holds its its cbapters chapters in in the cellars or confrérie the
cellars or estates estates of firms, as as well as in in other Champagne firms,
weil as other parts of France, and great wines, abroad. Its are in Reims. The The
great abroad. Its headquarters are in Reims. however, do not associate themselves
with it.

la Journée vinicole, a publication dedicated to the study and h Journie are in

defence Its headquarters headquarters are defence of of wine wine development.
development. Its Montpellier. This confrérie confririe L'Ordre L'Ordre illustre des
chevaliers chevaliers de de Méduse Meduse - This Provence, Cassis, Bandol, Côtes
represents the wines wines of Provence, C6tes de Bacchic society society of ofthe
Provence. ofan an ancient Bacchic tbe Provence. It is the revival of initiated in
Toulon towards of the end of same name initiated in Toulon towards the same name
the end Vauvray, seventeenth seventeenth century. The founder was Girardin de
Vauvray, general administrator of the Far Eastern Eastern seas. persecutions Les
Templiers Templien de la SerreSerre - To escape from from the persecutions Les of
the Pope and the French King, Philippe Philippe le Bel, a number in Banyuls, of
Templars Templars took Banyuls, which then a of refuge in which was was then took
refuge protectorate They gave a considerable impetus protectorate of Majorca. They
Eavea is for for this and the wine-making wine-making industry. It is to to
viniculture and reason that created an when the reason the vine-growers of Banyuls
created that when wines, they chose the patroancient order to publicise their
wines, farm of la la Serre, situated in in the nage of the Templars. The farm
vineyards, is their headquarters.
Pouilly La Confrérie Confrdrie des baillis de Pouilly - Based in Pouilly-sur1949,
has as in 1949, as its which was founded in Loire, this confrérie, confrine, which
aim the the excellent dry dry wines promotion of the wines of Pouillyaim the
promotion Fum6. Each is a a tasting of these wines wines in in Paris Fumé. Each
year there is ta Confrérie Confr6rie des chevaliers chevaliers de la chantepleure
Vouway La chantepleure de VouvrayChantepleure is is the picturesque name name for
the tap, the Chantepleure the cask tap, wooden vine-grower places in the vat in
order wood en spigot that the vine-grower it 'sings'; 'sings'; then to extract the
wine. When When the tap to tap is turned it the wine'weeps'. wine 'weeps'. The wine
dry or mellow, is Vouvray, dry still or or sparkling. sparkling. The wine is
mellow, still year, in Twice a a year, in mid-June and and mid-September, an Twice
an official official chapter is held in the Bonne Bonne Dame Dame cellars hollowed
chapter hollowed out of of the confririe chalky soil on the banks of the Loire.
This ancient confrérie was revived in in 1937. This, the most Confr6rie des
chevaliers chevaliers de La Confrérie de Sancerre Sancerre - This, publicising the
recent of of the the confréries confriries vineuses, vineuses, aims aims at at
publicising recent wines, rivais rivals of the Pouilly wines, and is excellent dry
white wines, situated exactly opposite the Pouilly vineyards, on the Berry bank of
the Loire. Confr6rie des tire-douzils in Marigny-Brizay Marigny-Bizay in La
Confrérie - Based in Vienne.

LOIRE VALLEY VALLEY -

MEDITERRANEAN REGIONREGION MEDITERRANEAN Le Conseil Conseil des des mestres mestres

tastaires du du Languedoc Le Languedoc - This confririe concerns produced in
concerns itself itself with wines produced confrérie with the the wines in the
departemenls of Tarn, Aude and Hérault. H6rault. départements LoOrdre des
chevaliers chevaliers du cep This order was created in L'Ordre - This EugEne
Causse, editor-in-chief editor-in-chief of the newspaper 1951 by M. Eugène
newspaper
264
CONVERSATION CONVERSATION

VAL DE DE LOIRE LOIRE VAL

Bailly de de Bailly Pouilly-sur-Loire Pouilly-sur-Loire Confr6rie des des Confrérie
tire-douzilS lire-douzils Chevalier Chevalier bretvin brelvin Chevalierde Chevalier
de Sacavin Sacavin

Les Entonneurs Entonneurs rabelaisiens rabelaisietxi What more more illustrious Les
- What patron could one choose for the wine of Chinon Chinon than Maître Maitre
patron Frangois Rabelais, Rabelais, born in in the town and great lover of his and
a a great François 'Breton'wine. This confrérie confririe was founded founded in in
1962. 1962. lt It holds 'Breton' wine. This year, at one chapter chapter a a year,
at the end of the end of September, September, in in the the Cave one at Chinon.
Chinon. As is is the the custom, this this chapter is is accomPeincte at panied by
a bountiful bountiful repast, excellent excellent wines and traditional panied bya
entertainments. entertainments. L'Ordre des chevaliers bretvins This confrérie,
confririe, founded L'Ordre - This in 1948 1948 and and based in Nantes, aims at
publicising in based in publicising Muscadet, the wine of this region, as weil well
as regjonal regional dishes. Les Sacavins d'Anjou This is is the the oldest of the
modern Les d'Anjou - This confriries, founded in confréries, in 1905. Its
headquarters are in Angers, and its its purpose It and purpose is to to publicise
publicise the numerous Anjou wines. It organises large number a large of
celebrations, chapters, chapters, and organises a number of tastings tastings in
Anjou and elsewhere.
SOUTH-WEST SOUTH-WEST La mousquetaires d'Armagnac La Compagnie Compagnie des des
mousquetaires - Inspired glorious memory by the glorious and his musketeers
musketeers memory of D'Artagnon D'Artagnon and but of the but instead instead of of
fighting fighting against against the the protectorship protectorship of Cardinal,
Its headCardinal, it it rallies rallies to to the the cause cause of of Armagnac.
Armagnac. Its quarters quarters are in Condom. Condom. La confririe La Confr6rie
Confrérie des des alambics alambics charentais charentais - This is the confrérie
of of Cognac. The purpose purpose of its celebrations is, of course, to make make
the the famous famous brandy brandy even ev en better better known known and
appreciated. La Confr6rie Confrérie Rabelais Rabelais de la'dive.bouteille'la
'dive-bouteiUe' - For the wines wines of of Gaillac. Gaillac. Le Le Consulat de de
la la vinee vinée de de Bergerac - For the the wines of Bergerac. Bergerac. La La
principautr6 principauté de France-Fineau France-Pineau - This group, group, with
with its capital capital in in Cognac, favours the Pineau of Charentes. It It
endeavours to to make make this wine better known and and appreciated with with the
the help of of numerous celebrations celebrations held both in France and abroad.
La La Viguerie Viguerie royale royale de Jurangon Jurançon - This confririe,
confrérie, with its headquarters at Pau, Pau, has has taken taken up up the mission
of defending and and promoting promoting the the wine wine that that was was so
dear dear to to Henry Henry IV. CONGER CON GER EEL. EEL. coNcnr CONGRE - Large
Large fish, fish, also also called called anguille anguille de de mer mer (sea (sea
eel), eel), found found in in the the seas seas of of the the temperate temperate
zone, zone, particularly particularly those those of of northern northern Europe.
Europe.
265

Conger eels in an an aquarium aquarium

The best-known type is The is the the common conger, conger, the the flesh flesh of
which resembles that of eels, but is less delicate. delicate. The conger used for
making making fish fish soups, notably the bouillaeel is cruefly chiefly used
baisse, but can be cooked in ways given can be given for eel in ail all the ways
eel (see EEL).
CONSOLANTE - Glass of wine, beer or cider served to the CONSOLAI\TE team of of
cooks in course of of their tbeir work.
CONSOMME CONSOMMÉ - Meat Meat stock which has been enriched, concon(see BOUILLON,
centrated and and clarified BOUILLON, Clarification clarified (see Clarfication of
bouillon). bOUillon). For the the preparation preparation of of various various
consomm6s consommés (simple For consommés, chicken, chicken, game, game, fish
consomm6s, fish consommés) consomm6s) see see SOUP, Clear soups. soups.
CONTISER - Term for encrusting chicken chicken fillets, or those of CONTISER game
or fish (chiefly (chiefly sole), with truffies trumes or other ingredients !ittle
cocks' combs. These are soaked in cut in the shape of little order to make them.
them. adhere adhere properly and set at egg white white in order egg regular
intervals intervals into cuts cuts made in the fillets. regular CONVERSATION
(PAtisserie) (Pâtisserie) - Roll out a piece piece of puff CONVERSATION
pastry pastry @Ate (pâtefeuilletée) which has has already been been rolled rolled
out out five feuilletie) which DOUGH). Set Set out out tartlet tartlet moulds
moulds close close together on times (see (see DOUGH). times a table, table,
moisten moisten each each one slightly slightly and and lay lay the the pastry on
top of the moulds. moulds. Flour Flour a lump of of pastry pastry and press press
it gently into the
COOK COOK
each each mould mould so so that that the the pastry pastry adheres adheres to to
the the bottom bottom and and while opSartyles looked looked after after the the
fires, fires, did did rough rough jobs jobs and and while the the opsartytes
prepared prepaœd food food for for the the household household slaves. slaves. A A
woman, woman, the the demiourga, demiourga, only only made made sweetmeats
sweetmeats and and other other delicacies. delicacies. Women Women had had free
free access access to to the the kitchen. kitchen. Other Other slaves slaves
prepared pœpared meals meals or or served served at at table. table. The The
trapezopoioslaid trapezopoios laid the the table table and and washed washed the
the dishes, dishes, the the oinophoros oinophoros had had charge charge of of the
the wine, wine, the the guests. oinochoikos, oinochoikos, a a young young slave,
slave, filled filled the the wine wine cups cups of of the the guests. In B.e.,
Athenian Athenian cooks, cook s, as as shown shown in in the the In the the fourth
fourth century century B.C., Greek Greek theatre, theatre, were were often often
slaves. slaves. They They played playcd an an important important judging by rdle
rôle in in the the life life of of the the city, city,judging by the the taunts
taunts poets poets levelled levelled at their their pretensions. pretensions. 'They
'They were were artists artists in in their their way; way; their their
apprenticeship apprenticeship lasted lasted two Iwo years, years, under under the
the direction direction of of a a cook cook of of reputation, reputation, and
during during this this time time they they wore wore the the apron apron of of the
the apprentice. apprentice. In In order to to acquire this this difficult difficult
mdtier métier the the apprentice apprentice not not only only learnt learnt from
from his masters, masters, he he was was given given books books which which set
set down the rules rules of of his his art, art, and, and, if if zealous, zealous,
spent spent his his nights nights studying studying them. 'It 'It was was only only
after after long long study study that that he he could could aspire aspire to ta
become become one one of of those artists artists whose whose names names were were
quoted, quoted, and and who who became became famous famous through through the the
creation creation of of a a single single dish.' dish.' (C. (e. Daremberg Daremberg
and and E. E. Saglio, Saglio, Dictionnaire Dictionnaire des des antiquitds
antiquités grecques grecques et el romaines.) romaines.) In In Greece, Greece,
cooks cooks had had become become persons persons of of importance, importance, all
the ruling ruling as as masters masters over over aIl the other other slaves slaves
in in the the household. household. A A special law permitted permitted the the
cook cook who who invented invented a a new new dish dish the the privilege of
making privilege of making it il and and selling selling it it to to the the
public. public. Many Many Greek Greek cooks left left famous famous names names
behind. behind. Cadmos Cadmos and, according King of of Sidon was was cook to to
the King Sidon in in Phoenicia, Phoenicia, and, according a result result of of the
to legend, legend, introduced introduced writing writing into into Greece. Greece.
As As a the only a a few burning of the library burning of library in in
Alexandria, Alexandria, only few fragments fragments literature of Greek IiteralUre
authors' names and the authors' names remain remain from from the the Greek of
gastronomy. gastronomy. was rudiequipment was cooking equipment early Greek Greek
cooking Although Although early rudigradually perfected. Caswere gradually mentary,
mentary, kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were perfected. Casmade in gridirons
were sometimes made were sometimes and gridirons seroles, cauldrons and in from
Objects from precious magnfficently decorated. decorated. Objects and magnrncently
precious metal metal and show their their Louvre in in Paris, Paris, show in the
the Louvre Treasure, in Bosco-Reale Treasure, the Bosco-Reale splendour. like an an
egg, egg' or or were shaped shaped like iron were bronze or or iron of bronze
Cauldrons of Cauldrons a cover. cover. and a base, chains chains and with a a
rounded rounded base, cone, with truncated cone, truncated common chutros, common
and the the chu/ros, the chylra chytra and were the them were Among them Among (or
pots without kakkabe (or the kakkabe without orna ornament, earthenware pOIS
earthenware ment, the the pot, the metal basin, basin, the large metal the lebes,
lebes, a a large a met metal kakkabos\, a kakkahos), al pot, pot, ancestor marmite.
the mannite. ancestor of of the earthenware pot, olla, an earthenware frying pans,
generally generally made bronze,and made of of bronze, and pans, Casseroles and
Casseroles and frying we use use (the Greeks like those those we were like food)
were pans (the fried food) Greeks enjoyed enjoyed fried pans with eggs, with
cooking eggs, dishes for for cooking were special today. There There were special
dishes today. row first row Athenaeus says: says: 'The sizes. Athenaeus 'The first
different sizes. cavities of of different cavities gooses'eggs, to gooses' the
peacocks' eggs, the second second to eggs, the belongs to the peacocks' eggs, the
(Deipnosophistai.) These These utensils utensils third to chickens' eggs.' eggs.'
(Deipnosophislai.) to chickens' third eugytheke' the eugylheke. placed on metal
support, support, the a metal on a were usually placed were amphorae, double-
bottomed amphorae, kettles or or double-bottomed Graceful bronze bronze kettles
Graceful Food drinks. Food heat drinks. were used to heat used to double-boiler,
were a modern modern double-boiler, like a the such as as the or metal metal
utensils, utensils, such earthenware or was served served on on earthenware was the
and the handles, and horizontal handles, with two two horizontal dish with kane, a
a concave concave dish kane, pottery, bronze, silver or or bronze, silver from
pottery, pazopsis, a dish made made from a deep deep dish pazopsis, plates served
on on ichthuai, ichthuai, plates were served gold. Some dishes were even gold. Some
dishes even richly vessels, richly drinking vessels, Greek drinking with fishes.
fishes. Greek decorated with decorated poterion. patarion or or pOlerion. were
called called pa/arion decorated, were decorated, were there were in Greece,
Greece, there Rome, as as in In early early Rome, Roman cooking cooking -- In Roman
was place. Cooking Cooking was Bakers took took their their place. such. Bakers no
cooks as such. cooks as no cooks. no need need for for skilled skilled cooks. was
no and tllere there was rudimentary and rudimentary (568 Great (568 the Great
Antiochus the war against against Antiochus the war Not untiJ until after after the
Not skilled employ skilled and employ have banquets banquets and Romans have the
Romans B.C.), did did the Re.), important more important in society society became
became more cook in The rôle rdle of of the the cook cooks. The cooks. bring Athens
to to bring to Athens sent to deputation sent the deputation of the return of with
the the retum with and Letters. Letters. Art and Greek Art to study study Greek
Solon, and and to laws of of Solon, back the the laws back
266 266

sides of of the the moulds. moulds. Half Half fill fi]] each each tartlet tartlet
with with a a preparation preparation sides

of of almonds almonds made made according according to to the the directions

directions for for Dartois Dartois

cakes cakes (q.v.), (q.v.), or or with with French French pastry pastry cream cream
(see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) to ta which which some sorne powdered powdered almonds
almonds have have been been added. added. Moisten Moislen the the edges edges of of
the the tartlets lartlets lightly lightly and and place place on on them them
pastry pastry rolled rolled out out thinner thinner than th an the the first.
firs!. Pass the the pastry-roller paslry-roller over the the tarts, tarts, cutting
cutting the the pastry pastry on on Pass of the the moulds mou Ids and and sealing
sealing the the edges. edges. the rim rim of the Make Royal Royal icing icing (see
(see ICING) ICING) with with 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) Make
icing king sugar sugar and and one one egg egg white white worked worked well weil
together, together, adding adding a a

pinch of flour flour to to prevent prevent it it running. running. pinch of pastry

crosswise crosswise on on top top of of the the tarts. tarts. Put thin thin bands
bands of pastry Put Bake al a a moderate temperature. lemperature. Bake them lhem
at

COOK cutstNGnE-Woman CUISINIÈRE - Woman responsible responsible for for the the
preparation preparation COOK. and cooking of food. The term is also also used used
in in France to and describe describe a small household cooking-stove. cooking-
stove.

COOKIES COOKlES - See BISCUIT. BISCUIT. wotd caisine cuISINE CUISINE - The French
French word cuisine is used for of preparing dishes (cooking) (cooking) and the
place place (kitchen) (kitchen) the art ofpreparing the in which they are prepared.

COOKING. COOKlNG.

Cooking is an ancient art, born when wh en primitive primitive man first tirst
Cooking discovered that if if a hunk of meat was placed placed near the fire it it
Some ingenious man easier to tasted better, better, and and was was easier to eat.
eat. Some tasted stone hollowed found a way of heating water in a Slone hollowed
out into a The spit basin. The clay vase vase succeeded this primitive primitive
pot. po!. The and the pot, pot, however rudimentary in in the beginning, made as
possible. Prehistoric Prehistoric finds such as many culinary operations possible.
fragments of of pottery, pottery, flint and bronze bronze implements and traces
fragments cooking. of hearths throw throw light on the origins of ofhearths
ofcooking. described Cooking Cooking among the Egyptians and Assyrians is described
BANQUET. under BANQUET.

cook Greek cook Greek

was the cook was the Greece the the only only cook In early early Greece Greek
Greek cooking cookiry -- ln The name name a baker. baker. The real cook, cook, but
but a not a a real who was was not mageiros, who mageiros, cakeo or or or kneaded
cake, barley bread bread or madza, barley fuommagis, magis. mat!za, comes comes
from knead. metto, to to knead. ftom masso, masso, malto, [rom Female exist. Female
not exist. mageiros did did not the mageiros Homer's time time the In In Homer's to
prepared the According to food. According the food. ground the corn and and
prepared the corn slaves ground slaves exalted, however exalted, host himself,
himself, however the host the Odyssey, Odyssey, the the the J/iad lliad and and the
when friends when with the the help help of of friends meals with prepared and
cooked the the meals prepared and cooked guests. distinguished guests. he received
received distinguished he masters. for his his masters. well as as baked baked for
cooked as as weil Later, the mageiros cooked Later,themageiros was and was de
cuisine cuisine and or chef chef de archimageiros or In time he became In time he
became archimageiros given assistants. assistants. given steward, a steward,
slaves, under under a hierarchy of of slaves, had a a hierarchy houses Great ses
had Great hou The opsonomos opsonomos duties. The definite dulies. had definite
Each slave slave had eleatros. Each the the elealros. place) bought food, (ftom
agora bought the the food, market place) or market agora or or or agorasles
agorastes (from
COOKING COOKING
Cooks and and gastronomes gastronomes were were brought brought to to Rome, Rome,
and and formed fonned Cooks a society, society, one one of of their their number
number calling calling himself himself vicarias vicarius supra supra a Under
Hadrian Hadrian an academy, Collegium coquorum coquorum coenas. Under coenas. was
formed. formed. Cooks Cooks were were highly highly paid. paid. The The triumvir
triumvir Antony Antony was gave gave a house house to Cleopatra's Cleopatra's cook
as a reward reward for an adadmirable meal. meal. mirable In large large Roman
Roman households, households, the the kitchen kitchen slaves each had In was the
the coquus, coquus, who who resembled resembled the tasks. There was specific
tasks. gros fi.res gros bonnet ('big noise'), noise'), the focarizs, focarius, who
who kept kept the the fires going, going, the the coctor, coctor, who who
superintended certain certain dishes, dishes, the the pistor pinsitor, who who was
was kitchen kitchen help, help, preparing the pistor or pinsitor, various foods
(the Romans had a taste stuffings, pounding various purées), and and grinding
grinding corn for bread bread and cakes. for pur6es),
it it is is 45 45 m. m. (148 (148 feet) long; long ; and this this will will not
not astonish astonish you you when wh en thinking thinking of the the banquets he
gives and the the great number number of of guests, guests, freed freed men men and
slaves, he has to to feed. feed . Here the tbe fireplace elbow-high, but but vast
vast and made made so as to draw off off the place is elbow-high, smoke smoke
because, because, in in winter, winter, a a house house filld filled with witb
smoke smoke is uninhabitable, uninhabitable, particularly particularly if if green
green wood wood or or ne\il new brushbrushwood are are burnt. bumt. The The
decoration decoration of of the kitchen kitchen has has a painting painting
representing one of those ridiculous sacrifices sacrifices made to to the goddess
Fortunax. This is surrounded with witb paintings paintings of of all ail the food
necessary for a great great feast: fish ready for cooking; spit; birds, hares hams;
hams; venison ready ready for for the the spit; hares and and many others objects.
The floor is made made of a composition used in Greece, producing producing a fine
black paving, well weil drained so even those walking barefoot barefoot are warrn.
warm. as the 'Near subsidiary rooms, 'Near the the kitchen kitchen are are
subsidiary rooms, such such as (earthenware pots dolia (earthenware oleariurn is
kept in in great do/ia o/earium where wbere oil is horrewn where a great 123 cm.
(four feet) in diameter); diameter): the horreum where a such as as winter many
many things things are are kept, kept, such winter provisions, provisions, honey,
honey, salt meats, and ail all the fruits, the provisions provisions fruits, dried
dried raisins, raisins, salt meats, and necessary household. These storerooms are
under necessary for for a great great housebold. the surveillance of a a
storekeeper called promuscondus, promuscondus, who supplies and delivers delivers
them to checks on ail all the foodstuffs and supplies The steward sees to steward
sees to the mainthe servants when required. The tbe provisions the the storeamount
of of provisions taining of of supplies; supplies; the the amount taining shops.'
rooms contain make make them resemble actual shops.' the Romans were were similar
in The kitchen utensils used by the used by material and shape to those used by the
Greeks. For cooking craticula. They also had a great meat, they used a grill,
called craticu/a. ladles, ail pastry moulds, more or all more moulds, sieves,
sieves, skimmers, ladIes, many pastry use today. less like those we use and eating
the GauJs Gauls Strabo wrote: eating habits of the Cooking and - Strabo "The Celts
eat bread small quantity with a a great deal deal bread in very small 'The grilled.
Their meat either boiled, roast or grilled. Their rivers and and the boiled,
roastor of meat provide fish, two seas fish, which which they them provide seas
which which surround surround them two season with with cumin cumin and and vinegar
as as oil oil is is scarce. scarce. They They add add season cumin to to ail all
their beverages. cumin 'The ri rich drink wine, wine, which which they they bring
bring from from Italy Italy and and 'The ch drink Marseilles, and is served
follows: a and which is served as as follows: a servan servant Marseilles, t brings
in each each hand a hand a a bowl bowl of of earthenware earthenware or or sil
silver, similar to to a in ver, sirnilar from the the draws from wine. Eacb Each
one one draws filled with with wine. marmite, and and filled marmite, wine and wine
a time, time, but they drink often, often, and drunk at at a bowl. Little is drunk
is almost almost always always unadulterated.' unadulterated.' is given below
dishes. The The recipes recipes given below loved spiced spiced dishes. The Gauls
Gauls loved The show their for strong condiments: their taste taste for strong
condiments: show Method of and trim of preparing cranes cranes and and ducks.
ducks.'Wash trim the the Method 'Wash and (or the put it it in in an earthenware
marmite. marmite. crane (or the duck) duck) and and put an earthenware crane put
Add water, Let it it reduce reduce by half and water, salt salt and and dill. dill.
Let by half and then then put Add the whole whole into into a cauldron with with
oil and broth, a bouquet a cauldron oil and broth, a bouquet of of the point of
marjoram and When the crane is is on and coriander. coriander. Wben the crane on
tbe the point of marjoram cooked, add add a a ]jttle little heated heated wine.
wine. Pour Pour over over a a mixture mixture being cooked, being lovage, cumin,
rue coriander, roots roots of of honey, honey, lovage, cumin, coriander, of
benzoin, benzoin, rue of pounded caraway, with vinegar. vinegar. Put Put sorne some
starcb starch in in the the and pounded caraway, with and your crane pan and and
make make the liquid boil. boil. Put Put your crane on on a a disb dish and and the
liquid pan pour the the sa sauce over iit.' pour uce over t.' 'Make this Stuffing
for with the meat of dormice. 'Make the meat of the the this with Stuffing for
dormice. powdered pepper, pepper, nuts, dormouse with with powdered nuts, benzoin
benzoin and and broth. broth. dormouse put them Put the the dormice dormice on on a
a tile tile after after sewing sewing them them up up and and put them Put in the
They can can also also be be cooked cooked in in a a copper copper boiler.' the
oyen. oven. They boiler.' in Merovingians Cooking and eating habits hsbits of of
the the Franks Franks and and Merovingiaœad eating Cooking 'Once established in
Gaul, Gaul, the the Franks Franks imitated imitated the the luxurious luxurious
established in 'Once example set Romanised Gauls. They ate reclining on by the the
Romanised Gauls. They ate reclining on set by example couches in in dining-rooms,
dining-rooms, around decorated with with around tables tables decorated couches The
Franks Franks borrowed borrowed various various dishes dishes from from the the
flowers. The flowers. Gauls, and and their their cooking cooking remained remained
very very much much the the same same as as Gauls, that of of the the Romanised
Romanised Gauls, Gauls, entirely entirely Roman. Roman. Pepper, Pepper, that plants
honey, wine, vinegar, meat meat broth wine, vinegar, broth and and aromatic
aromatic plants honey, (From l'Art formed the seasonings.' (From I'Art Culinaire,
the basis basis of of ail all seasonings.' Culinaire, formed marquis de de Cussy.)
marquis Cussy.)

Underground Underground Roman kitchen (rrom Antiquités civiles (from de Vogüé,

Vogii6, Antiquitds de Syrie) Syrie) religieuses de civiles et religieuses

Many attached to the kitchen and dining-room. Many slaves were were attached The
con dus managed the household, and ordered and stored stored condus the cellar, the
the structor managed the the cellar, the food. food. The The doliarius doliariu.s
managed arranged captor carved the captor food on on the serving platters, the
arranged the food the meat, a reliable man, tasted the dishes, meat, the the
proegustator, a and the aquarius was responsible responsible for the supply of
water. (dining-room) was who In iarch a, who tricliniarcha, was the the triclin In
the triclinirnn (dining-room) the triclinium pocillator, was the pocillator, a
large household household today, the was like the butler in a who poured wine, a
high-ranking high-ranking nomenclator, a and the who poured wine, and the
nomenclator, protocol. servant, responsible for protocol. servant, responsible For
a the Republic, Republic, Rome, and and under under the a long time in ancient
Rome, pulmentus, made gruel, puis puls or made with the or pu/mentus, food was was
a a gruel, chief food the chief pounded barley or (German wheat). was roasted,
roasted, pounded This was wheat). This or spelt spelt (Gennan porridge like and
like the polenta to make make a a porridge with water, to and cooked cooked with
still cauldron. This was was made made in in a a bronze bronze cauldron. Italy.
This still eaten eaten in in Italy. potages and Our terms potdes, potages and pot-
au-feu for liquids liquids like potées, terms for (to drink). potare (to derive
potus from drink). word potus from potare derive from from the the Roman word Under
gluttony and and extravagant extravagant decadence, gluttony Under the Empire,
decadence, the Empire, luxury cooking. of Roman Roman cooking. characteristic of
luxury became the characteristic became the Carême, it was was declared that that
it the Roman Roman cuisine, cuisine, declared Car6me, who who studied studied the
heavy Romans carried carried their their refinement. The The Romans heavy and and
without without refinement. taste measures had had restrictive measures extremes
that that restrictive taste for for meat meat to to such such extremes to which
Pliny Pliny tells tells us us ate elephant, elephant, of of which They even even
ate to be be taken. taken. They only . He roealso of of three three roeHe writes
writes also favour. only the the trunk trunk found found favour buck, Herds of of
these these animais animals as a a first first course. course. Herds the table
table as set on buck, set on the were set parks in Tarquinia. in the neighbourhood
of of Tarquinia. in parks the neighbourbood set up up in The animals, to wild wild
animais, The Romans Romans did confine themselves themselves to not confine did not
eating puppies: dormice with chestnuts, chestnuts, eating puppies: fattened with
dormice especially especially fattened acorns pigs kept guinea pigs called the the
kept in in a a cage cage called acorns and nuts; and and guinea and nuts;
gliriarium. gliriarium. Mazois, kitchen in in described tbe the kitchen Palais de
de Scaurus, Scaurus, described Mazois, in in the the Palais the great Roman: house
of Roman: the house of a a great 'Scaurus' 'Scaurus' kitchen its dimensions are
enormous, enormous. kitchen is is arched, arched. its dimensions are

267 267
COOKING COOKING
end of At the period the the end of the the Merovingian Merovingian period the
convents, convents, which which At preserved ail had preserved gourmands, increased
all the the traditions traditions of of the the gourmands, increased had in number
progress was great progress number in in France, France, and and great was made
made in in cookcookin ing. ing. French cooking in the Middle Ages cooking in the
Middle Ages -- Viollet-le-Duc gives a Viollet-le-Duc gives a French picture of of
what what kitchens kitchens were were like like at at the the time: time: picture
'In the the houses houses of of the the Middle Middle Ages, Ages, chimneys chimneys
were were large large and and 'In get inside high; a man could a man could get
inside the the chimney chimney without without bending, bending, high; and ten
people could ten or or twelve twelve people could sit sit easily easily round round
the the hearth. hearth. and Inside these chimneys strong strong and these chimneys
andirons, called landiers, landiers, were were Inside irons, called needed to to
hold hold the put on the enormous enormous logs logs that that were were put the
tire, fire, on the needed prevent them and to from rolling rolling into to prevent
them from into the the room. There There were were and andirons for for the the
kitchen kitchen and and for for other other rooms; rooms; the the former former
andirons were complicated complicated in in form form because put to because they
they were were put various to various were uses. Their Their uprights uprights were
were furnished furnished with with supports supports or hooks or hooks uses. to
take take the the spits; spits; they they were were surmounted surmounted by by an
an extension extension in in to the form form of of a a small small brazier
prebrazier on on which which dishes dishes could could be be prethe pared or or
kept kept warm. warm. pared 'The division division of of stoves into sever
compartments as in our stoves into several our 'The al compartments day, was was
seldom seldom seen. The dishes were seen. The were cooked cooked on on the the tire
fire day, itself, and and these these fierce fierce fires did not not allow fires
did allow for for dishes dishes which itself, needed constant constant stirring,
stirring, or or to to be made in in frying frying pans. needed 'The andiron-
braziers, andiron-braziers, tilled filled with with charcoal, charcoal, were were
at at a a 'The convenient height height and at a a distance distance from from the
fire. fire. Sometimes Sometimes convenient they were were divided divided into into
two two compartments, compartments, in in which which case case it it they possible
to was possible prepare and to prepare and cook cook four four dishes dishes
outside outside the was pots, suspended from hearth. Over the hearth hearth hung
hung pots, from hooks or hearth. tripods; in in front front of of the the tire fire
one one or or two two spits spits turned several tripods; pieces of meat. Only in
in this this way way could could a a large large me meal pie ces of meat. Only al
be prepared. prepared. 'Before the twelfth century, the twelfth century, only only
roast meats and and boiled 'Before vegetables were were eaten, eaten, and and the
the art art of making stews of making stews was vegetables almost unknown. unknown.
What What was good c1ear was needed were good clear tires, fires, almost needed
were large hearths which many on which many long long spits spits could could be be
set, set, and large hearths on hanging vast cauldrons. space for for hanging The
architects architects of put ovens in of the twelfth twelfth century began to put
'The kitchens, arrange food before serving kitchens, and tables on which to arrange
before serving it. From Frorn the fourteenth fourteenth century onwards, sauces
were much it. appreciated. Ovens were needed to Ovens were to make the many dishes
which at the the big feasts of the time. which were were served at feasts of time.
The equipment ment of of the the kitchens kitchens began to to improve. improve.
'In the castles and and convents convents of of the Ages, the 'In the casties the
Middle Middle Ages, chimney was chimney was not not always built built against the
wall in in the room kept cooking, but kept for for cooking, but was sometimes
sometimes built built in in the middle of of

vaulted roof, roof, and and the the vaulted centre of hearth set set in in the
room. the hearth the centre of the the room. the A kitchen kitchen like like this
resembled a this resembled a tower, tower, open open at at the the top, top, A
joists to without joists to separate intervening space separate the the intervening
into floors, space into floors, without and with with the the diameter diameter
decreasing decreasing towards towards the the top. top. Such a and Such a kitchen
can can still still be be seen seen in Popes at at A in the the Palace Palace of
Avignon.' of the the Popes kitchen vignon.' French cooking cookirE in in the the
fourteenth fourteenth and and fifteenth fifteenth centuries centuries -French
Information on on cooking cooking at at this this time time is is found found in tn
le le Viandier Viandier Information Taillevent. by Taillevent. by gruel, made were
a a gruel, made with Soups were with milk, milk, often often flavoured flavoured
with Soups with honey, saffron saffron and and sweet sweet wine wine and and
thickened thickened with with moyeux moyeux honey, (egg yolks) yolks) and and
butter. Rice soups butter. Rice soups were were made made and and various (egg
various garbures (q.v.). (q.v.). They pur6es like like garbures (sops). They were
were called called soupes soupes (sops). purées Brouet was made of was made of ca
calves' meat, with with fowl fowl or Brouet Ives' meat, or conies conies (rabbits)
cut pieces, browned (lard) with cut into into pieces, browned in in sein sein de de
lard lard (lard) (rabbits) with and crushed onions and crushed almonds, almonds,
and and moistened moistened with with wine wine and and onions (hotchpotch) was
stock. The The hochepot hochepor (hotchpotch) was similar similar to to brouet,
brouet,but stock. but grilled bread grated breadcrumbs were bread or or grated were
added added as as thickenthickengrilled (which did ing. Galimafrée Galimafrie
(which did not not have have its modern modern connotations connotations ing. with
bad stew, mauvais ragoût), ragoitt), was bad stew, was made made with with mutton
mutton or with or cooked, chopped, chopped, simmered simmered with onion onion and
and moistened fowl, cooked, with cameline cameline sauce. sauce. with gives recipes
Taillevent gives recipes for for seventeen seventeen sauces, sauces, including
including Taillevent sauce Robert, Roberl, so so wholesome wholesome and and
necessary, necessary, according according to sauce to for duck, pork, eggs, duck,
rabbits, roasts, fresh pork, eggs, salt Rabelais, for salt cod cod Sauces were
thickened with bread. and other meats. Sauces

Italian kitchen kitchen of of the the sixteenth siXleenth century. century. After
After Christiano Christiano di Messiburgo, Messiburgo, Ferrara, Ferrara, 1549
View View ofthe of the kitchen kitchen ofFontevrault of Fontevrault Abbey Abbey

French French cooking cooking in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century century -
Under U nder Frangois François I, 1, the days days of of feasting and drinking,
drinking, as recounted by Rabelais, Rabelais, were were revived. revivcd. The The
first tirst real real cookery books books date from from this time. In 1543,la
1543, la Fleur Fleur de toute toute cuisine, by by Pierre Pierre Pidoux. Pidoux,
and and in 1570, 1570, the Viandier de Taboureau, appeared. appeared. Cooking
flourished flourished in this reign. reign. The refinements retinements of the
Italian ltalian Renaissance Renaissance had had penetrated penetrated into into
France, France, and French banquets banquets became became more more splendid than
ever. ever. Menus included included fish, tish, fowl, feathered game and venison,
venison, but meat meat and and vegetables vegetables featured featured little.
little. Kitchen Kitchen utensils utensils were were now now augmented augmented by
by vast vast copper daubiers daubiers (q.v.). (q.v.). 268
COOKING COOKING
In ln the the following following reigns reigns expense expense had had to to be be
cut down owing owing

to to imperial imperial and and religious religious wars. wars. Prosperity

Prosperity returned returned under Henry Henry II, II, and cooking made made rapid
rapid progress. progress. Feasts Feasts were magnificent. A A meal meal served to
Henry II II himself himself included a magnificent. profusion profusion of lampreys
lampreys in Hippocras Hippocras santce, sauce, hot-pots, hot-pots, ducklings d à la
la Malvoisie, Malvoisie, slices slices of muraena muraena (an (an eel-like eel-like
fish) lings
sauce of of egg egg yolks and herbs, ducks ducks d à la didone, served with with a
sauce served sturgeon fillets fillets d à la la lombarde, lombarde, quarters of of
roebuck, partridges sturgeon à la tonelette, tonelette, and and a whole series
series of of puddings such as darioles d and ichaudes. échaudes. cooks and end of
the the sixteenth century, century, Italian Italian cooks At the end of Catherine
pastrycooks came to France France under under the influence influence of
pastrycooks maitres queux and Marie de Medici. At this time the Italian maîtres

(head chefs) world. They in the the world. chefs) were considered the the best best
in remained in the taught the French many recipes which have remained taught aware
of French culinary repertoire. repertoire. Cooks Cooks were already aware were
already French rôle and social importance. importance. their r6le cooking in the
seventeenth century The reign reign of French cookirg - The King which the King
'hen'which famous 'hen' Henry IV is symbolised by the famous wished all ail his
subjects to be able to put in the pot on Sundays. wished had little significance
the reign significance during the Although cooking cooking had of Louis Louis XIII,
XIII, it founded on on the impetus founded received an an impetus it received of
Français by by La in 1651, which appeared in Varenne, which La Varenne, Cuisinier
Frangais the first book to fix the rules and principles of working, and working,
and In 1691 1691 the the Cuisinier Cuisinier in cooking. cooking. ln order in to
establish establish some some order et Bourgeois Bourgeois by Massialot, giving
precise instructions, instructions, Royal et appeared. more varied, varied, was
growing more appeared. It It showed that cooking was and people or royal or royal
famous people after famous named after and dishes dishes were were named
favourites. Menus o//a Spanish o//a olh -- the the Spanish mention the the o//a
Menus mention favourites. removes and and podrida monumental removes hors-teuvre,
monumental - multiple hors-d'œuvre, entremets way. a logical way. in a arranged in
entremets (q.v.). Courses were arranged During rather was spectacular spectacular
rather Siicle cooking cooking was During the the Grand Siècle than fine or
delicate. than fine or delicate. ln of the the utensils of XIV the culinary
utensils Louis XIV the culinary In the the reign reign of of Louis Middle (see
caisine (see de cuisine Batterie de replaced by a Batterie by a Middle Ages Ages
were were replaced KITCHEN pots many new new pots included many KITCHEN EQUIPMENT)
EQUIPMENT) which included and silver utensils utensils Later, silver iron. Later,
and wrought wrought iron. and pans in in tinplate tinplate and were used. used. The
in his his château ch0teau Fouquet in festivities of of Superintendent
Superintendent Fouquet The festivities de were at Chantilly, Chantilly, were Prince
of of Condé Cond6 at and of of the the Prince de Vaux, Vaux" and particularly
particularly sumptuous. was maître maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel Vatel was The famous
famous Vatel sumptuous. The of position. a very very important important position.
the Grande Grande Condé, Cond6, a of the

and great interest in food, food, and interest in a great took a All Ali the grands
grands seigneurs took gave their masters' their masters' interest, gave grateful
for for this this interest, master cooks, grateful immistaken imgave rise the
mistaken rise to to the This gave dishes. This names to new names to new dishes.
they names they whose names by those those whose created by pression pression that
dishes were created de Béchamel. B6chamel. marquis de withBCchamel,calledafter
bore, as with Béchamel, called after the marquis preceding in the the preceding
those in than those manners were were simpler than Table manners a true for a true
heavily for too heavily XIV ate ate too Louis XIV Although Louis century. Although
century. dishes served served having dishes of having habit of the habit gourmet,
he he established established the gourmet, together, was thrown thrown together,
his time everything was separately. Before his separately. in his his Boileau in by
Boileau pyramid described described by miking a a monstrous pyramid making Festin
ridicule: poulets étiques, itiques, de six six poulets liivre flanqué Sur un un
lièvre Sur flanque de dome stique s, animaux domestiques, lapins, animaux tr o is
lapins, S' i le vaient trois S'élevaient Paris, dans Paris, Clevis dans enfance
élevés tendre enfance dis leur leur tendre Qui, Qui, dès nounis. dont ils chou dont
ils furent le chou encor le Sentaient encor Sentaient furent nourris. entassCes,
viandcs entassées, de viandes cet amas amas de de cet Autour de pressies,
d'alouettes pressées, cordon d'alouettes m long long cordon Rignait un Régnait
pigeons étalés Ctalds plat, six six pigeons &t plat, les bords bords du Et sur les
brttlis. squelettes brûlés. renforts leurs leurs squelettes Prisentaient pour
renforts Présentaient

pullets emaciated pullets six emaciated by six surrounded by a hare hare surrounded
top of of a On On top animals, domestic animais, rabbits, domestic Lay three three
rabbits, Lay in Paris, Paris, infancy in tender infancy their tender raised since
since their Who, raised Who, fed. had been been fed. which they they had on which
cabbage on the cabbage still of of the Smelt Smelt still piled up meats up meats of
piled mass of Round this this mass Round pressed larks, larks, of pressed long
border a long border of Reigned Reigned a pigeons spread out spread out dish, six
six pigeons the dish, edges of of the And the edges And on on the reinforcement. a
reinforcement. as a skeletons as their burnt burnt skeletons Exposed Exposed their
were quantity of dishes were gteat quantity of dishes agreat century a ln In the
the seventeenth seventeenth century the of the many descriptions descriptions of
are many and there there are meal, and served at each each meal, served at XIV.
Louis XIV. of Louis table of royal table meals at the the royal meals served served
at and 'I have King eat, eat,and the King seen the have seen wrote; '1 The cess
wrote; Princess The Palatine Palatine Prin entire an entire soups' an plates of
different soups, of different that four plates often, four that very very often,
cut mutton cut plateful of of salad, salad, mutton large plateful partridge, a a
large pheasant, pheasant, a a partridge, plateful piecesof harn, aaplateful good
pieces of ham, garlic, two up two good with garlic, its juice with up in in
itsjuice jams.' of and jams.' and fruit fruit and of cakes, cakes, and eaten 'All
his life he hehad hadeaten his life And Saint-Simon, 'Ali to Saint-Simon, And
according according to part as as past only thesoft soft part only the time past
for some some time very and for little bread, very little bread, and and fine
hashes hashes and quantities, fine large quantities, he in very very large no
teeth. Soup in he had had no teeth. Soup atewas wasvery very heate Everything he
eggs as aa supplement. supplement. Everything were used used as eggs were thecase,
case, isordinarily asis ordinarily the asspiced highly spiced as least twice at
least twice as highly spiced, spiced, at the that the Louis XIV XIV that to Louis
due to and It was was due indeed.' It and very very strong strong indeed.' days,
for tête fEte days, reserved for custom formerly reserved sweets, formerly serving
sweets, custom of of serving was daily use. use. into daily was introduced
introduced into great houses and houses and the great in the Menus copious in
equally copious Menus were were equally chefs, masterchefs, andthe themaster among
time, and ofthe the time, rich bourgeois among the the rich bourgeois of great deal
deal meals had preparedthese hadaagreat or thesemeals who prepared or cordons
cordans bleus, bleus, who to do. to do. judgedthe the Historyhas hasjudged French
Regency - - History theRegency underthe French cooking cooking under years under if
the under eight But, if theyears years of Regency severely. severely. But, eight
years of Regency politically and andeconomieconomiPhillipe were disastrous
disastrous politically Phillipe d'Orléans d'Orl6ans were gastroregardsgastrocally,
asregards distinction as leastsome some distinction at least hadat cally, they they
had nomy. fromthis thistime. time' datesfrom Frenchcuisine cuisine dates Thetrue
true French nomy. The in great houses houses in While ofthe thegreat lasted, the
theovens ovensof Regency lasted, While the the Regency giftedcooks who the cookswho
andthe thegifted evercold, cold,and hardly ever kingdom were werehardly thekingdom
and directed Trianon and Royal,the theTrianon PalaisRoyal, of the thePalais
kitchens of directed the the kitchens the cely houses refined table table
therefined tosatisfy satisfythe princely hadto houseshad the other other prin
companions guestsof Regent. theRegent. ofthe theguest<; who were werethe companions
who pastry.In vie The Inla lavie thepastry. hand-with the himself took
tookaahand.with The Regent Regent himself privée 'Forthe littlesuppers suppers the!
ittle privie d'autrefois, wrote: 'For Franklinwrote: d'autrefois,Franklin given
prepared in inspecial special wereprepared thedishes disheswere given by Regent,
the theRegent, by the rooms of weremade madeof allthe theutensils utensils were
whereaU floor,where thesame roomson samefloor, ontl)e silver; cooks.' withthe
thecooks.' workedwith oftenworked silver;the theroués roudsoften The pictureof
givesaapicture ofthe the suppers gives thesesuppers Themenu menuof ofone oneof
ofthese brilliant prinkeyto tothe theprinThismeal mealisisa akey time.This
brilliantcuisine cuisineof ofthe thetime. cipal infashion: fashion: dishesin cipal
dishes First and garnished with carrotsand withcarrots beef,garnished ofsalt
saltbeef, Firstcourse. course.Joint Jointof potatoes. potatoes.

Seventeenth (Marielle) c,o ok (M ar ie t te) Seventeenth century cenbtrycook

269 269
COOKING
Two Two soups. soups. One One made made of of a pike pike cullis, cullis, one of of
turnips with a duck thereon. lhereon. Two Two fish fish dishes. dishes. Carp d
I'anglaise; freshwater fish fish consisting ing of of twenty-four twenty-four
little perch and four little liWe pikes. Tm Ten entrdes. entrées. Mutton M uttan
fillets flllets larded larded and glazed glazed with gherkins gherkins on top; top;
two two chickens stuck with parsley, parsley, espagnole l'Sf,IUXnOIC sauce; sauce;
pike pike d à Ia la polonnise; pololUlise; perch perch d à la la geneviise
genevoise (six (six peicli and one white wine); 0ne bottle bOUle of ofwhite wine);
sauerkraut sauerkraut with one pike; twentyfive five oysters oysters cooked with
with a pint pÎnt of of cream; noix noix de veau veau d à la napolitaine;
napolitaine: three three partridges partridges en en levrault levraull (leveret);
(leveret); two fine fine eels à Ia la bavaroise; bavaroise; and and half half a a
hundred hundred fine fi ne crayfish; crayflsh; roebuck roe buck eels it kidneys
kidneys in in marinade. marinade. Two Two dishes dishes of of pdtisseries.
pâlisseries. A A cake cake filled filled with with apricot marmelade; marmelade; an
an iced Iced tart tari (six (six peaches peaches iced iced and and a a pint pint of
of cream). cream). Four Four roasts. roas/s. Fried Fried smelts smelts (crumbed),
(crumbed), two two poulardes, poulardes, two fried fried soles, soles. two two wild
wild ducks. ducks. Four Four dffirent salads, sa/ads, with with sauces. sauces.
Four Four little hot hOl entremets. entremets. Six veal veal sweetbreads
sweetbreads larded larded and and glazed; pig's pig's trotters troUeTS Sainte-
Menehould; Sainte-Menehould; dried dried peas peas d à /c la crime; crème; dessert
dessert apples apples d à la la chinoise. chinoise. Until Untîl the the beginning
beginning of of the the eighteenth century, cent ury, cooking cooking was was done
done on the the fire fire and and on on charcoal braziers. braziers. Kitchens
Kitchens were were provided provided with with a a stove stove called called a a
potager potager which which had had twelve twelve or twenty twenly grates grates
(foyers), (foyers), according according to to the the size size of of the lhe
househousehold. hold. This This arrangement arrangement lasted lasted until until
the the cast-iron stove stave heated heated with with coal coal came came into into
use. use. French French cooking cooking under under Louis Louis XV XV - Cooking
Cooking in in the the reign reign of Louis Louis XV XV was was much much the the
same same as as under under the the Regency. Regency. The The nobility nobility
were were very very interested interested in in the the culinary art. art. They
They were were 'gastronomic snobs', snobs', and and wished wished to to have have
dishes named named after after them, whether whether invented invented in in their
their own own house house or or not. not. It 11 is is to to this this period period
that tl1at we we owe owe Bouchies Bouchées d à la la Reine, Reine, named named in
in honour honour of Marie Marie Leczinska, Leczinska, wife wife of of Louis Louis
XV; XV; Cailles Cailles d à la la Mirepoix Mirepoix (quails) (quails) and Timbale
Timbale Pompadour. Pompadour. The The menus menus served served at at the the court
court of of Louis Louis XV XV by by H6liot, Héliot, Ccuyer écuyer de di! bouche
bouche of of Madame Madame Dauphine Dauphine de de France, France, were were
grandiose. grandiose. Car6me Carême published publîshed part of of these these
menus, menus, taken taken from hbtel frangais. from the the original source,
source, in in his Maitre Maitre d d'hôlel Phil6as Philéas Gilbert notes notes that
that the the menus menus were were presented in in the the form fûrm of of placards
placards 'whose 'whose dimensions dimensions are are those those of of electoral
electoral notices not ices and and in in which which figure:4 figure: 4 ollas ollas
and and S 8 lesser lesser soups; soups; 12 12 fish fish entrCes; entrées; 32 32
entries entrées and 44lesser 44 lesser entries; entrées; 12 12 removes; rem oves ;
4 4 hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre before before the the King; 2 2 grand entremets;32
enlremefS; 32 roasts; roasts; 2 lesser roasts 21esser roasts at at the the ends
ends of the table; 2little 21ittle dishes dishes before before the the King; King;
40 40 cold cold entremets entremets and and 48 48 hot hot entremets.' entremets.'
Many Many master cooks were mastercooks were needed needed to to execute execute
such such a a menu. menu. In In the the time time of of Louis Louis XV XV a a
number number of of culinary culinary books books appeared. The The most most
interesting were were Ie le Cuisinier Cuisinier moderne moderne by by Vincent de de
la la Chapelle, Cba pelle, published in in English English in in 1733, 1733, and
and translated translated into into French French in 1735, 1735, and and the the
Dons Dons de de Comus, Comus, which which appeared appeared without without the the
author's author's name name but but was was written written by hOtel of by Marin,
Marin, mattre maître d d'hôlel of the the mar6chal maréchal de de Soubise. Soubise.
This This was was preceded preceded by by a a Discours Discours prCliminaire,
préliminaire, remarkable remarkable both both for for its its style style and and
documentation, documentation, and and attributed attributed to to the the Jesuit
Jesuit fathers, fathers, Pierre Pierre Brunoy Brunoy and and Hyacinthe Bourgeant.
Bourgeant. CarCme Carême thought thought the the work work of of de de la la
Chapelle the the best best of of the the books books which which appeared in in the
the seventeenth and and eighteenth eighteenth centuries, centuries, although he
criticised criticised the the author aUlhor for for having having given given
certain certain dishes names, disbes inadmissible m2ldrOlSSl names, such such as as
Filet Filel de de boeuf boeufen en talon talon de de botte, bOlle, rnd and Potage
POlage d à la la jambe jambe de de bois, bois, which wbich he he found found
grogrotesque. tesque. Among Amongthe the bourgeois bourgeois at at this this time,
time, meals meals were were also also simpler. simpler. Brillat-Savarin Brillat-
Savarin describes describes a a typical typical meal meal served served in in the
the middle middle classes. classes. ln In 1740 1740 a a dinner dÎnner for for ten
len people would would consist consist of: of: First FirSl course. course. Le Le
bouilli bouilli (boiled meat); meal); an an entrde en/rée of of veal \leal cooked
cooked in in its its juice; juice; an an hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Second Second
course. course. A A turkey; turkey; a a dish dish of of vegetables; vegetables, a a
salad; salad, a a cream. cream. 270 270

Third Third course. Cheese; Cheese; fruit; fruit; a a pot ofjam. of jam. The plates
plates were only changed three three times times - after the the soup, for the
second course, course, and for dessert. Coffee Coffee was seldom seldam served, but
but quite quite often orten a ratafia ratafia of of cherries or carnations,
carnations, a recent recenl introducintroduction, tion, was served. French French
cooking cookillg at a' the the time tîme of of Louis Louis XVI XV] - During the
first years of the the reign reign of Louis Louis XVI, the the tendency continued
to to years of refine retine culinary methods methods and to to establish establish
more more order and logic, logic, as as well weil as greater greater elegane
elegance in in menus menus for grand grand galas. galas. Brillat-Savarin Brillat-
Savarin writes writes in in his fft'sloire Hisfoire de de la cuisine cuisine of
great improvements improvements in in all ail branches branches of catering.

multiplied multiplied on on an an ever ever increasing increasing scale. scale, . .

. . . . Physics and and

'Cooks, 'Cooks, .caterers, pdtissiers, pâlissiers, confectioners, grocers, have

have

chemistry chemistry have have been been called called to to the the aid of of
cooking. cooking. The The most most distinguished distinguished intellects
intellects have have not not thought thought it il an an unworthy unworthy task
task to to occupy themselves themselves with our basic basic needs, needs, and and
have have introintroduced duced improvements ranging rangîng from from the the
workman's workman's simple pot-au-feu pOI-mJ-jeu to to the the transparent
transparent extracts extracls (Brillat-Savarin (Brillat-Savarin means means here
here the the aspic aspicjellies) jellies) which which are are served served in in
gold and and crystal. . . . 'The 'The French French cuisine cuisille has has
appropriated foreign dishes, such as as caviare caviare and and beefsteak;
beefsteak; seasoning such such as as curry curry and and soya; soya; drinks drinks
like Iike punch punch and and others. others. .. .. .. Coffee has has become become
popular, popular, in in the the morning morning as as nourishment, nourishment. and
and after after dinner dinner as as an an exhilarating exhilarating and and tonic
tonie drink. drink. 'Finally, 'Finally, the the word word gastronomy gastronomy has
has been been revived revived from from the the Greek.' Greek.' During During the
the reign reign of of Louis Louis XVI XVI the the first nrSI restaurant restaurant
came came into into being being (see (see RESTAURANT). REST A URANT). Menus Menus
of of restaurateurs resta urateurs of of the the time time provide information
information on on looking in in general. general. These These included included 12
soups, soups, 24 24 hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, 15 15 or or 20 entdes en/rées
ofbeef, of beef, 20 20 entries entrées of of mutton, mutton, 30 30 entrdes entrées
of of fowl fowl or or game, 12 12 or 20 20 entries entrées of of veal, veal, 12 12
dishes dishes of of pdtisserie, pâtisserie, 24 24 dishes of of fish, fish, 15 15
roasts, roasts, 50 50 entremets, entremets, 50 50 desserts. desserts. French French
cooking during the tbe period of of the the Revolution Revolutioll and and the the
Empire Empire - The The author of Avant de quitter quiller la la table table
desqibed described the the French French cuisine cuisine at at the the time time of
of the Ihe Revolution: Revolution: '. . .. the the poor chefs chefs were were
forgotten; forgotlen; a a new new austerity austerity preprevailed and the supreme
supreme bon hon ton Ion was was to 10 assume assume a a spartan spartan vailed and
simplicity. sîmplicity. 'But 'But the the pleasures pleasures of of the the table
table never never lose lose their their rights, rights, and and the the new new
masters mastcrs of of France France soon soon tired tired of of so 50 much much
virtue, virtue, and and onoe once again aga in in in Paris Paris and and in in the
the provinces, provinces, there there was was a a return retum to to good good
living. living. The The chefs chefs of of the the great great houses houses of of
the the nobility, nobility, finding finding themselves themselves unemployed
unemployed on on the the emigration emigralion of of their their masters, masters,
put put themselves themselves at al the the service service of of those those who
who governed governed them, them, and and soon soon the the ovens ovens were were
heated heated once once again throughthroughout out the the country, country, and
and particularly in in Paris, Paris, in in the Palais Palais exexRoyal, Royal, rue
rue Montorgueil, and and the the boulevard boulevard du du Temple. Temple. 'Men
'Men of of talent, laient, such such as as Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin and and
Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre, Reyniere, began began to to assemble assemble
their lbeir observations, observations, and and to lo experiment PYr.,.,r,m'~f\1 in
in order orderto to write. write.ln 1798, at at the the age age of of 16, 16.
Car6me, Carême, In 1798, the man man who who was was going going to to write write
the the new'culinary new 'culinary charter', charter', after after 6 6 years yeaTS
in in a a modest modest cabaret cabaret on on the the outskirts outskirts of of
Paris, Paris, started started as as a a pastry-cook with wÎth Bailly. Bailly. The
The maison maison Bailly Bailly was was one of the leading Pans pdtisseries
pâlisseries and and supplied the the prince prince de de Talleyrand, who who kept a
a sumptuous sumptuous table. Two Two years yeaTS later later Car6me was was first
n.rst pastry-maker pastry-maker in in this Ihis famous famous house'. house'. In In
the the relatively relatively calmer calmer period perÎod of of the the Directory,
Directory, the the great great bourgeois bourgeois households households
reorganised reorganÎsed themselves, themselves, new new resrestaurants taurants
opened, and and cooking cooking again again became became as as grandiose grandiose
as as in the time time of Louis Louis XV. XV. in the Under Uoder the the Directory,
Directory, an an attempt attempt was was made made to to revive revive official
dinners and and suppers. suppers. Ostentation Ostentation was was re-established,
re-established, official dinners and and magnificent magnificent buffets buffets
with wilh enormous, enormous, over-decorated over-decorated cold cold piices were
were prepared prepared for for balls. balls. Even Even if if the the emphasis
emphasis was was on on luxury rather rather than than on on a a well-chosen well-
chosen ensemble ensemble in in these these great great festivities, lestlvlltles.
both both in in Paris Paris and and in in the the provinceso provinces, more more
rational ratÎonal menus menus were were introduced. introduced.
COOKING COOKING

century early nineteenth nineteenth century in the the early A kitchen in

in arms and and in 'The passed in of arms in the clash of the clash 'The first
first Empire Empire passed and immense triumphal fEtes and marked by splendid
splendid fêtes trumpetings marked triumphal trumpetings banquets.' (Varras.)
sinecure' The position of chef in the Imperial was no sinecure. Imperial Court was
The chefs ventilation in in the the bad ventilation chefs came and went. Was it due
to bad kitchens, in the the established in economy established the severe severe
economy kitchens, or or to to the household, which reduced wages 2,400 francs?
francs? wages to to2,4N Among those who exercised Imperial Court, Court, art at at
the Imperial exercised their art galas which which great galas and of the the great
extravagance of and contributed contributed to the extravagance took most who was
was the the most man who place, was the man was Chandelier, Chandelier, the took
place, Helena, devoted 's servants, St Helena, him to to St followed him servants,
followed Napoleon's devoted of of Napoleon and to the the applied himself to
difficulties applied and in in spite of countless countless difficulties spite of
task fallen Emperor. Emperor. of the the fallen the appetite appetite of task of of
encouraging encouraging the great mas It ter master the great himself, the that
Carême Car€me rumself, It was was at at this this period that of rial for on French
French for his his works works on material his mate art, collected collected his
culinary art, of culinary cuisine his While continuing continuing his century.
While nineteenth century. cuisine in in the the nineteenth innovations
knowperfected his pafisserie, he his culinary culinary knowhe perfected in
pâtisserie, innovations in given ledge. great dinners dinners given at the the
great Tuileries, at at the the Tuileries, ledge. He was was seen seen at by new
where the the new Hotel de de Ville Ville where fOtes of of the the Hotel the fêtes
Talleyrand, at at the by Talleyrand, marshals amand amministers and nobility,
ministers the new new nobility, France, the marshals of of France, great bassadors
came, with the the great and at at the the Elysée-Napoléon Elys6e-Napol6on with
came, and Laguipière. Laguipidre. As come to to who had had come place of pdtissier
he of those those who the place As a a pâtisSier he took took the the the chef of
of the Tiroloy, one-bme one-time chef the end end of their careers: careers:
Tiroloy, of their Soubise Lecoq, of Condé, Cond6, Lecoq, house of Feuillet of of
the the house household, Feuillet Soubise household, who Louis XVI. XVI. for Louis
royal household household for in the the royal had worked worked in who had Carême
with promoted under famous chefs chefs with the famous under the rapidly promoted
was rapidly Car6me was whom gratitude in in rus his works. works. his gratitude and
expresses expresses his whom he he studied, studied, and French century -nineteenth
century the nineteenth the beginning beginning of of the at the French cooking
cooking at Even period had very had very of this this period kitchens of equipped
kitchens Even the the best best equipped mediocre rudimentary. were rudimentary.
and cooking stoves were cooking stoves mediocre implements, implements, and Carême
at the the hour hour of of picture of kitchens at of these these kitchens a picture
left us has left us a Car6me has work. work. 'Imagine the of the as that that of
kitchen such such as yourself in in aa large large kitchen 'Imagine yourself
Foreign great dinner. Twenty dinner.Twenty moment of of aa great at the the moment
Foreign Ministry Ministry at chefs going, moving moving with with coming, going,
occupations, coming, are at at their their occupations, chefs are speed live great
mass oflive massof Look at atthe thegreat heat. Look of heat. in this this cauldron
cauldron of speed in

(yard), for entries, of the the entrées, for the the cooking cooking of metre
(yard), a cu cubic charcoal, a charcoal, bic metre soups, ofthe for the the cooking
cooking of the ovens ovens for mass on on the and another another mass and the
soups, and the the bain-marie. bain-marie' frying and the frying ragottts, the the
sauces, sauces, the the ragoûts, the which in front front of of wruch wood in 'Add
to a heap of burning burning wood heap of to that that a 'Add weighing a sirJoin
sirloin weighing of which which bears bears a one of are turning, turning, one four
spits spits are four piece of veal weighing weighing (a5 to of veal a piece lb.),
another another a 20 to 27 kg. kg. (45 to 60 60 lb.), to 27 20 game. and game. fowl
and (35 t045 for fowl two for other two l6 to 20 kg. to 45 lb.), lb.), the the
other to 20 kg. (35 16 speed; tremendous speed; 'In this moves with with tremendous
furnace everyone everyone moves this furnace 'In make right to to make has the the
right chef has the chef only the not a a sound is heard; heard; only sound is not
obeys' voice everyone everyone obeys. his voice sound of of his and at at the the
sound himself heard, heard, and himself an about half half an for about sufferings,
for our sufferings, lid on on our put the the lid Finally, to to put Finally, the
air air does does that the are closed closed so so that windows are doors and and
windows hour the the doors hour And in in this this dished up. up. And are being
being dished as they they are dishes as not cool cool the the dishes not lives. of
our our lives. pass the days of the best best days way we we pass way though even
though We must must obey obey even 'But honour commands. We honour commands. 'But
which charcoal which it is is the the buming burning charcoal But it physical
strength fails. But strength fails. physical kills us!' us !' kills Physiologie Ia
Physiologie Brillat-Savarin's la Restoration, Brillat-Savarin's the Restoration,
During During the gastrothat gastroimportance that the importance gottt appeared,
and shows shows the du appeared, and du goût the restaurantsof ofthe In the the
restaurants time. In at that that time. had at nomy and cooking cooking had nomy
and of effortsof Thanks to to the the efforts flourished. Thanks Palais Royal trade
trade f1ourished. Palais Royal their tastes of of their the tastes tosatisfy
satisfy the cooks to and master master cooks restaurateurs restaurateurs and made
in incookery. cookery' great progress progress was wasmade clientele, clientele,
great in wasin cooking was theart artof ofcooking Louis-Philippe the Under reign of
of Louis-Philippe the reign Under the lived King lived economical King about the
the economical lower favour. Everyone Everyone about lower favour. Tuileries atthe
theTuileries Dinners at with close to to stinginess. stinginess. Dinners with
aasimplicity simplicity close presentation. in their their presentation. were were
bourgeois bourgeois in on withan aneye eyeon always bourgeois, al Louis-Philippe
ways with lived as asaabourgeois, Louis-Philippe lived thesupplying supplying of of
caterers the to the thecaterers economy. assigned to He even even assigned economy.
He The cost costof these of these pricesto to the thechâteau. chdteau. The dinners
at fixed fixed prices dinners at tothe the per head, according to head, according
l0francs francs per dinners to10 was to to be be55to dinners was guests. importance
theguests. importance of ofthe hardly make make couldhardly artof cooking could U
nder such ofcooking r6gime the theart suchaarégime Under 'bourgeois' ofthe
the'bourgeois' inthe thereign reignof progress. was in progress. However,
However,itit was gastronomic coteries coteries andgastronomic King famousclubs
clubsand most famous the most King that that the restaurants metin in the thebest
bestrestaurants were Thesesocieties societiesmet founded.These were founded.
gastronomes desgastronomes Acadimie des and ofthe the Académie forerunners of and
were werethe the forerunners

271 271
COOKING COOKING

re"
iii!
5
7

FIE

ur

10

8
9

,,'\ @
B

Diagrammatic installation installation of kitchen (after the Consrrucreurs of a

kitchen Constructeurs associés associds de de Paris) Paris) Diagrammatic

A. Storage room: 1. Co Id room; 2. Refrigeratingcabinet; 3. Oven; 4. Marble-topped

table; 5. Table. B. Ice creamery: 6. Ice trough; 7. Machine for breaking up ice 8.
Motor turbine; 9. Ice cream containers. C. Kitchen: !O. Large central cookingrange;
II. Spit; 12. Steam kettles; 13. Deep friers; 14. Grills; 15. Salamander stove 16.
Tables; 17. Hotplate; 18. Mixer. D. Washing-up space; 19. Sinks; 20. Washing-up
range; 21. Washing-up sinks for glasses. E. Cafeteria; 22. Oven 23. Percolators. F.
Grill-room; 24. Grills; 25. Hotplate

Curnonsky. Although Brillat-Savarin had founded by Curnonsky. had predicted such an

academy, its programme programme was nebulous. The brief Republic The Republic of
of 1848 had had its its patriotic patriotic banquets, banquets, where the menu
comprised only veal and salado salad. drniry tlre French cooking during the period
of the Second Empire The Second 'the reign Second Empire may The may have bave been
been 'the reign of electroplated crinolines and and prefects', plated ware and and
tinsel, the time of crinolines but it it was also a time that favoured the caisine.
cuisine. Magnificent Magnificent festivities and banquets took place place at the
Tuileries, and in the banquets took various châteaux chiteaux in which which the
court of Napoleon III III lived. The great dinners of the time achieved achieved
perfection. perfection. The first edition edition of of the the Cuisine Cuisine
classique classique by by Urbain Urbain Dubois Dubois and Auguste Bernard appeared.
appeared. This work is still an authority, and has done more for professional
professional cooking than even ev en the books of of Car6me, Carême, which which
are are sometimes sometimes hard to to read. Among the great great chefs were
Armand Gouft Gouffé and Joseph Gastilleur. Gastilleur. 'On 'On ordinary
occilsions,' occasions,' says Madame Madame de de Carette, 'the table table at the
Tuileries was was rich and and elegant, and and the food exquisite (Souvenirs
intimes de de h la cour cour des exquisite and and delicate.' delicate.' (Souvenirs
Tuileries.) Tuileries.) 'One ate at almost almost all ail seasons seasons
strawberries, peaches, little new of the the chdteaux châteaux of Vernew peas,
peas, from from the the greenhouses greenhouses of sailles. . . . There were four
double courses, (which means, sailles .... today, two entrées, two two roasts,
roasts, etc.) etc.) two soups, two two removes, removes, four four entries, 'The
kitchens in the Tuileries were in the the basement basement and the the dishes
dishes arrived by by lifts lifts installed installed behind behind the Gallery of
Diana'. Despite the brilliance brilliance and delicacy delicacy of of food in high
high social circles, circles, many many writers writers criticised the the cooking
cooking of of the the time, time, complaining that it Courrier de Paris Paris it
was was mediocre. In the the Courier of of 27 27 March March 1858, 1858, cooking
cooking and and chefs chefs were were severely severely rated: rated : 'A 'A good
dinner dinner is is a rare rare thing thing today. today. Gastronomy Gastronomy is
is like like
272

poetry: it has fallen into a complete decadence ... .... decadence. 'The present
present generation eats and knows not how to eat ... ... grande cuisine which it is
the enemy enemy of that grande it is the which was was France's glory. The chefs
are are the cause of this glory. this indifference, which which is blamed on us.
us. They have muddled everything, spoilt everyeverything, exhausted exhausted
everything.' everything.' 1867, during On 7 7 June during the On the Universal
Exhibition, the June 1867, Universal Exhibition, of the three Emperors took place
in the Café dinner of Cafe anglais. anglais. The guests were ail all illustrious,
The guests were illustrious, including including the the Czar, Czar, the

Old Old kitchen, kitchen, Hospice Hospice de de Bearune Beaune (French (French
Government Governmenr Tourist Tourisi Office) Office)
COPPER COPPER

**u*

' r,i ;.]

:#, ;-{fl
(Photothlque) Commercial Gaz de de France France (Photothèque) Commercial kitcben.
kitchen. Gaz

Czarevi tch, King Grand I of Prussia, and and several several Grand Czarevitch,
King William William 1 of Prussia, Dukes. A will be found under under the the this
meal meal will be found A description of this heading MENU. per head, head, a
considerable a considerable 400 francs francs per MENU. It [t cost cost 400 sum at
that time. French early twentieth twentieth late nineteenth and and earJy the Jate
French cooking cooking of the century end the end its peak since since the has
reached its century - French cooking has of cookery books books Many excellent
excellent cookery century. Many of the the nineteenth century. were Urbain with
those those by by Urbain were written written at at this starting with time,
starting this time, Dubois, Auguste Bernard, Gouffré, Favre. After After and Joseph
Gouffr6, and Joseph Favre. 1900 (in culinaire (in like Escoffier's Guide culinaire
1900 important important books Escoffier's Guide books like collaboration de la la
table table by by Plaisirs de Gilbert), Plaisirs with Philéas Phil6as Gilbert),
collaboration with Nignon, le were Prosper Salles, by Prosper Salles, were le Grand
/ivre livre de de la la cuisine cuisine by published. Interesting works pen of
master from the the pen of master works came came from cooks Werner, Dietrich,
Garlin, Garlin, Werner, as Alfred Alfred Suzanne, Suzanne, Dietrich, cooks such
such as prat. Bouzy, Alfred and Pella Pellaprat. Alfred Guérot Gu6rot and These
instruction; often often These books only with with theoretical theoretical
instruction; books deal deal only y there practice. The The fact fact that that the
they gap between theory and and practice. there is is a a gap between theory were
practic€ was proves that was highly highly written at at ail all proves that
culinary culinary practice were written developed. present-day chef the same same
must have have the chef must developed. The The present-day qualities of last
century, century, of of the the last qualities as at the the beginning beginning of
as those those at whom D6saugiers wrote: wrote: whom Désaugiers Un quand je dine,
dine, Un cuisinier, cuisinier, quand - Me divin Me semble semble un un être Atre
divin fond de Qui, de sa sa cuisine, cuisine, fufond Qui, du Gouverne genre humain.
humain. Gouverne le le genre Qu'ici bas, on on le le contemple contemple Qu'ici
bas, Comme du ciel, ciel, ministre du Comtne un un ministre Car temple est un un
temple Car sa sa cuisine caisine est sont l'autel. Dont Dont les les fourneaux
fourneaux sont l'autel. 'A cook, when 1 dine, a divine divine being, who 'A cook,
when I dine, seems me a being, who seems to to me rules One kitchen. One of his his
kitchen. race from from the the depths depths of the human human race rules the
considers is aa kitchen is his kitchen minister of of heaven, heaven, because
because bis him a a minister considers him temple, (See also INTERaltar.' (See also
INTERin which his ovens ovens are are the the altar.' which his temple, in NATIONAL
NATTONAL COOKERY). COOKERY). COOT. It has has dark dark moorhen. It Bird sintilar
similar to to the the moorhen. FouLeuE -- Bird COOT. FOULQUE ftesh, not strongly
strongly ftavoured. flavoured. flesh, dry dry and and not There in France: France:
foulque varieties of coot in There are are several of coot several varieties
foulque morelle, macroule, also known as foulque judelle, morelle, foulque foulque
macroule, also known as foulque iudelle, crête du Cap (African or crested coot) and
foulque foulque à foulque d crAte du Cap (African or crested coot) and foulque
273 273

popuis not not so so popubleue It is is found found in in England England but but
is bleue du Portugal.It &t Portugal. lar in the the U.S.A., U.S.A., but but they
they lar as it was. There are are several species in as it was. There several
species are are not not marketed. marketed. Lenten fare. fare. Ali All The as
Lenten church as The coot is classified classified by by the the churcb coot is
good eaten ways eaten It is is good a coot. coot. It apply to to a cooking a ways
of a wild wild duck duck apply of cooking (the skin fresh, it is is shot skin is is
oily oily shot (tbe immediately after after it fresh, if if skinned skinned
immediately piece of and larding with aa piece of larding a casserole casserole
with in a and smelly) and cooked cooked in smelly) and bacon.

l)/+

x!ffi
g -?e-=
@7.
-=-=:-

t'

-5Coot Coot

COPEAUX petits foars made (Twists) -- Small madefrom from sweets or or petitsfours
COPEAUX (Twists) Small sweets a (q.v.). They given for are They are for langue
langue de de chat chat (q.v.). like that a mixture mixture like that given squeezed
tray, and and cooked cooked from a a forcing-bag forcing-bag on on to to aa baking
baking tray, squeezed from in roundaa While still malleable. they thev are are
rolled rolled round still malleable, in a a hot hot oyen. oven. While stick into
twists. stick into twists. COPPER. - Metal many Metal used in the manufacture of
ofmany usedin the manufacture COPPER. CUIVRE cuIvREcooking heat, and good conductor
and copper copper It is isaagood conductor of ofheat, cooking utensils. utensils.
It cooking pans have heatevenly evenly advantage of ofspreading spreading heat
cooking pans have the the advantage and food right right through. through. and
cooking cooking the the food In doses,copper copperis is one oneof of the the In
minute minute but measurable doses, but measurable minerai in sorne foods. some
foods. andin mineral elements in the the human human body body and elements in
Copper poisons.ExperiExperilong regarded regarded as asvirulent virulent poisons.
Copper salts salts were were long ments proved this like false, although
althoughsalts, salts, like ments have long proved this false, have long sulphates
(verdigris), tend nauseaand and tendto tocause cause nausea sulphates and and
acetates acetates (verdigris), vontiting. vomiting.
COQ

Camier ) Coq au vin (Robert Carrier)

Also the French word word for cock COQ - Chef aboard ship. Aiso and a synonym for
chicken in certain dishes. Coq is usual on
menus. pAte This dish dish is is prepared with with a a fine fine chicken, Coq en
pâte - This and not a a cock. It It is is much better if made made as as follows,
follows, in the and old way: Remove the breast dressed chicken. Stuff breast bone
from the dressed Remove gras and and truffies cut into large the bird generously
with foie gras pieces, seasoned seasoned with salt and spices, moistened moistened
with Cognac and with with sorne some delicate delicate forcemeat. Truss Truss the
and the chicken chicken en (i.e. the legs inserted into the sides). entrie (i.e.
entrée Brown in butter butter on all sides. Cover Cover with a matignon, rnatignon,
made Brown with 1 1 medium I onion, I small carrot, onion, 1 stick celery, celery,
ail all with medium carro t, 1 small stick pepper, and seasoned seasoned with salt,
pepper, chopped, softened in butter and flnely sliced lean thyme and powdered bay.
Add 75 g. G oz.) finely e. (3 raw ham at the end of cooking. cooking. Wrap the
chicken in a a pig's caul soaked in cold water, or in salt pork. Place on an an
oval cau! (see DOUGH), made of Lining pastry (see base of from 500 500 g. base made
frorn (11 oz., g. (lI 4| cups) flour, 300 g. l| cups) butter, oz., 4t oz., Il I
egg, (18 oz., butter, 1 (+ pint, pint, ! l+ dl. dl. (i water, 11 l| teaspoons cup)
water, teaspoons salt. salt. Cover Cover the 11 J cup) join the edges and pinch
together. pastry, join chicken with more pastry, egg. Make an an opening in the
pastry to allow the Brush with egg. a hot oven for t steam to escape. Cook in a 1
hour. prepared like this: cooked in pastry is more often prepared Chicken cooked
Stuff the chicken and and brown brown it in butter, as described described above.
Stuff Place in in a a terrine terrine which which exactly exactly contains contains
it. it. Cover Cover with Place pdte dfoncer (as above). Brush with egg and cook in
the oven. pâte àfoncer Coq en pdte Pirigueux sauce should be be served served with
with Périgueux sauce (see Coq pâte should SAUCE). 274

a young chicken into Coq au vin (from an old recipe) - Cut a g. (4 oz.) diced Heat
100 g. diced lean breast six pieces. Heat breast of pork, and (2 oz., g. (2 50 g.
c.rp) butter in several button onions in oz., i cup) several button onions in 50 in
an put in the pieces of pot. When browned, put of chicken, earthenware pot.
earthenware (q.v.) garni, morels a bouquet garni, morels (g.v.) a finely finely
chopped garlic clove, a a with the lid lid on, or other mushrooms. Sauté, on, until
until golden. Saut6, with or Remove the lid and skim off offthe Remove the fat. Add
a little good brandy, (scant pint, pour on pint, 2* litre (scant 2f, cups) flame,
and then then pour on 1 cups) old fla me, and ] litre a good heat for 15 to 20
minutes. Auvergne wine. Cook on a heat for Remove the chicken and pour Remove pour
over the sauce, thickened thickened with the chicken, mixed with with the pounded
chicken the blood of the liver and not cook and sorne some brandy. cook the the
sauce sauce after this liver Do not brandy. Do The sauce sauce may be be thickened
with liaison, liaison, or it will curdle. The BUTTER), instead instead of the
blood. Kneaded butter (see BUTTER),

LOT COQUE DU LOT - Cake made in the region of Lot for the

Easter celebrations. Easter (2| lb., Ingredients. 1 I kg. kg. (2i lb., 9 9 cups)
cups) flour, flour, 6 6 whole whole eggs, Ingredients. g. (4 oz., 1 g. (4 oz., 1
sugar, 100 g. 125 g. I cup) butter, 125 g. ] cup) sugar, (4 oz., ! (l oz., g. (1 in
long, long, thin (4 25 g. thin slices, slices,25 ? cup) citron, cut in "up)
flavouring made of yeast, I cake) cake) yeast, each of lemon third each 1 of a a
third essence, orange-flower water and rurn. rum. Method. Make a dough like Brioche
Brioche dough (see DOUGH). risen, shape into an an oval oval loaf. Leave it to to
rise rise again. When risen, a hot oven. Bake in a

of name for the strawberry-tomato, strawberry-tomato, of COQUERET Popular narne

COQUERET - Popular which the fruit is edible. Cornmon Common in the south of
Europe.

pnfffs FOURS joined A PETITS Two of these these are joined COQUES À - Two
CORN
with with a stifffruit stiff fruit marmelade marmelade or other composition,
composition, and glazed Fondant icw icing (see ICING). with Fondant
Pound Pound 500 500 g. (18 oz.,3l oz., 3-!- cups) cups) dry blanched almonds with
500 g. (18 oz., stifly beaten egg OZ., 2f 2<1- cups) cups) fine sugar. Add 12
stifHy whites. whites. Mix Mix well. weil. greasePipe through a forcing-bag
forcing-bag into into balls on a sheet of greasePipe through proof proof paper.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with icing sugar. Cook Cook in a slow oven. oyen. The also be
made as follows: The mixture mixture can also Grind 500 g. (18 o2.,3] oz., 3-!-
cups) blanched almonds and mix Grind with 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 2j 2<1-cups)
whites. Add cups) fine sugar, and 5 egg whites. vanilla 50 g. (2 oz., { t cup)
potato potato flour, I 1 teaspoon teaspoon powdered vanilla stifHy beaten beaten
egg whites. whites. and 5 stiffiy
eggs upright COQUETIER - Egg-cup used used to keep keep boiled boiled eggs
COQUETIER applied to to tradespeople wh en served in their their shells. Aiso
applied shells. Also when served in dealing in eggs and poultry.

( Nicolas) (maize) (Nicolas) of corn corn (maize) Ear of

Coquille Coquille for roasting

COQUILLE filled with charcoal. is fiIled - Kitchen utensil which is Used on a a

spit. Used for roasting joints on The given to to dishes dishes of of fireproof
porcelain, The name name is is also also given tempered The deep deep a shell.
shell. The tempered glass or metal made in the form of a shell of the scallop is is
used same way. used in the same Various put in salpicons, preparations are are put
in these these shells: shells: salpicons, Various preparations purées, These are
are fillets, fish fish or pur6es, ragoûts, or shellfish. shellfish. These ragottts,
chicken chicken fillets, covered grated breadwith grated sprinkled with in various
sauces, sprinkled covered in various sauces, crumbs and grated cheese, oven or or
under under and browned in the oyen cheese, and the (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, grill (see
garnished). the grill HORS-D'(EUVRE, Scallop Scallop shells, shells, garnished).
CORDÉE much pastry is cordie when when too too much is said said to to be A pastry
be cordée CORDEE -A water pastry is is as as as hard hard as water has in the
mixing. mixing. Such Such pastry has been been used used in
leather. leather.

CORIANDER. fruits of this The rounded rounded fruits of this CORIANDER. CORIANDRE
connNDRE -- The plant our, ({ inch) pale in in col colour, plant are inch) in in
diameter, diameter, pale are about mm. (! about 5 5 mm. with an It and bitter. and
a a taste taste both sweet and bitter. It an aromatic aromatic smell, smell, and
both sweet is many foods, foods, inciuding including and to spirits and is used to
season season many used to flavour spirits meats, cheeses, pastries. puddings and
and pastries. pickles, salads, salads, soups, soups, puddings cheeses, pickles,
CORKSCREW. with a spiral a spiral Implement with rrnr-eoucHoN -- Implement
CORKSCREW. TIRE-BOUCHON thread, pull the the cork cork flat or rounded, used used
to to puil which can can be or rounded, thread, which be flat from the is less less
risk risk of of cutting cutting or or breaking breaking the from a a bottle. There
is bottle. There cork rounded stem. stem. cork with a a rounded CORN Indian corn
and corn and (Maize). MAÏS as Indian known as rra,c.is -- Aiso Also known CORN
(Maize). corn-on-the-cob. plant is It origin. It American ongin. is of of South
South American This plant corn-on-the-cob. This was the arrival of of the the
arrivai Peruvians before before the was cultivated cultivated by by the the
Peruvians Spanish Spanish settlers. settlers. Corn century in the the sixteenth
sixteenth century into France France in was introduced introduced into Corn was and
grown there. in the the It fiourishes flourishes in are now now grown there. It and
many many varieties varieties are wine-growing wine-growing districts. districts.
The grain is with tasselled tasselled tops. tops. a fibrous fibrous casing casing
with in a The grain is enciosed enclosed in Its popular in It in America. America.
It is very very popular which is makes a a bread Its flour flour makes bread which
con tains a keep. Corn is proportion of not keep. Corn is oil but does not but does
a high of oil contains high proportion relatively or in quite rich rich in in
nitrogenous substances, substances, but but quite poor relatively po in nitrogenous
lipids as it is is eaten eaten as regions it In sorne some regions lipids and and
carbohydrates. carbohydrates. In
275 275

grains can can be polenta, cakes The grains be porridge or or bread. bread. The
cakes or or polenta, porridge or cornflakes. cornflakes. grilled, boiled or made
into popcorn or in French French cookcookis not not much much used used in Fresh
corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob is Fresh quantity. is eaten in quantity. hand, it
it is eaten in the other other hand, ing. In America, on on the ing. B6cHAMET --
Boil Boil FRAIs À A LA LA BÉCHAMEL ulis FRAIS corn à i la béchamel. bdchamel. MAÏS
Fresh corn corn-on-the-cob 1. I. Strip Strip the the cobs cobs Boiledfresh cobs as
as for for Boiled the cobs fresh corn-on-the-cob (see SAUCE). Bichamel sauce sauce
(see SAUCE). with Béchamel and mix mix tbe the corn corn with and M,c.is FRAIS
FRAIS AU AU NATUREL NATUREL -I. MAÏS fresh corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob 1.
Boiled fresh Boiled milky. and milky. They should tender and should be be tender
fresh corn corn cobs. cobs. They Choose Choose fresh with or without their their
for 15 15 minutes, minutes, with or without in salt water for them in salt water
Boil them leaves. not already leaves, if if not already the leaves, Drain the cobs.
Fold Fold back back the Drain the cobs. separately. fresh butter butter separately.
the cob. cob. Serve Serve fresh stripped, to expose expose the stripped, to also be
be steamed. steamed. Corn-on-the-cob can also Corn-on-the-cob can NATUREL -uds
FRAIS FRAIs AU AU NATUREL II. MAÏS fresh corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob D. Boiled
Boiled fresh green leaves leaves and and the the Remove the the green Sever at the
the base. base. Remove Sever the the stem stem at milk water with with milkboiling
water Plunge into into unsalted unsalted boiling silky silky threads. threads.
Plunge (4] quarts, quarts, litres (41 (scant pint, pint, 2-!milk to to every every
5 5 litres 2l cups) cups) milk -!litre (scant I litre quickly for minutes. l0
minutes. quarts) water. Boil quickly for 10 5-!water. Boil 5] quarts) g. Mix 500
(American cookery). DE MAïs rulis -- Mix 500 g. PAIN DE cookery). PAIN Corn bread
(American Corn bread (9 oz., generous 2 g. (9 2 cups) cups) (18 oz., oz., generous
250 g. (18 cornmeal, 250 oz., 3-!3l cups) cups) cornmeal, l| tablespoons baking
baking sugar, 1 wheat flour, 4 teaspoons sieved t tablespoons flour, 4 teaspoons
sugar, sieved wheat (4 oz., in aa g. (4 100 g. oz., -!cup) butter butter in and 100
powder, I-!powder, salt and 1| teaspoons teaspoons salt I cup) bowl. bowl. (scant
pin pint, 2{ cups) cups) yolks beaten with -!litre (scant t, 2-!Blend Blend in in 4
4 egg beaten with egg yolks ] litre (6 tablespoons, cream, cup) double double crea
m, milk scant ! I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant milk and and 1 * cup) whites,
whisked whisked possible. Fold Fold in in 4 4 egg egg whites, stirring little as as
possible. as little stirring as pans, pour into muffin pans, into into well-
buttered well-buttered muffin and pour into aa stiff froth, and stiff froth,
filling full. filling them three-quarters full. them three-quarters is This bread
Bake minutes. This bread is for 25 25 or or 30 30 minutes. in a a hot hot oyen oven
for Bake in served at breakfast. breakfast. from the the oyen, oven, at served hot,
hot, straight straight from cobs Fresh rn.nls AU AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Strip Strip
the the cobs unis FRAIS corn in in butter. butter. MAïs Fresh corn (see PEAS). and
proceed as PEAS). Peas in in butter butter (see asfor and proceed for Peas cobs
Fresh re CRÈME Strip the the cobs rReIs À A LA cniMs -- Strip uais FRAIS Fresh corn
corn in in cream. cream. MAïs (see PEAS). and PEAS). proceed as la crème crime (see
for Peas Peas à it la asfor and proceed Grilled cobson on aa Put the the cobs
crurr-f -- Put uds FRAIS rRus GRILLÉ fresh corn. corn. MAÏS Grilled fresh grains
have gridiron have When the the grains gridiron and hot oyen. oven. When and cook
cook in in aa hot swollen our, take cobs out good col of the the oyen. oven. take
the the cobs out of are a a good colour, and are swollen and Grilled cob. on the
the cob. or served served on may be stripped, or Grilled corn corn may be stripped,
(Cr6ole cookery). unis EN rN Corn giblets (Créole cookery). MAÏS chicken giblets
with chicken Corn en en suso suso with pouLET - Suso porridge made from SUSO a
porridge made from isa ABATIS DE DE POULET suso AUX Aux ABATIS - Suso iS' cornmeal.
andshould should be besimmered simmered not be too thick thick and It must must not
be too cornmeal. It slowly long time. for aa long time. slowly for Cut pieces.
Brown Brown in in fat fat and and add addaa giblets into into equal equal pieces.
the giblets Cut the (3 tablespoons) little tomato tablespoons) tomato Add 22
tablespoons little water. water. Add tablespoons (3 purée off the the cooked, drain
drain off pur6e and When completely completely cooked, and season. season. Wben
stock flour. moisten the the fiour. and keep keep it it to to moisten stock and
CORNELIAN CHERRY CO RNELIA N CHERR y
Wash some cornmeal. Put it in the pan in which the giblets Wash sorne cornmeal. Put
it in the pan in' which the giblets have been browned, together with chopped onion.
Add the have been browned, together with chopped onion. Add the giblets, the stock
gradually, and cook slowly.

giblets, the stock gradually, and cook slowly.

CHERRY. CORNOUILLf coRNourLLE- - Tart, Tart, red red fruit, fruit, the the
CORNELIAN CHERRY. size of an olive, which is preserved in honey or sugar. It is
which is preserved in honey or sugar. It is size of an olive, preserved in pickle,
like olives, and usd for jelly. It is also preserved in pickle, like olives, and
used for jelly. Il is also called a cornel. called a come/. CORNEI This word word
l'las has the the following following meanings: meanings: CORNET -- Trus l. A twist
of paper paper used for wrapping. 1. A twist of used for wrapping. 2. A horn-shaped
pastry. 2. A horn-shaped pastry. 3. A thin slice of ham, tongue, or other meat,
rolled into 3. A thîn slice of l'lam, tongue, or other meat, rolled into the shape
ofa horn. of a horn. the shape 4. Term used in butchery, in France, for the larynx
of a 4. Tenn used in butchery, in France, for the larynx of a
carcase. Cornet for decorating. coRNET A ofconm. - paper cornet, Cornet for
decorating. CORNET À DÉCORER - Paper cornet, which was used for for decorating
decorating cold cold dishcs. dishes. Replaced Riplaced in in which was used
pAtisserie by the forcing-bag (pastry bag). pâtisserie by the forcing-bag (pastry
bag). Car€me, in the Discours priliminaire du phtissier royal, Carême, in the
Discours préliminaire du Pâtissier royal, sayso 'I must give an honourable mention
to the man who says, '1 must give an honourable mention to the man who invented the
paper cornet, used to decorate and embellish inventee! the paper cornet, used to
decorate and embellish our modern sweets with meringue. our modem sweets with
meringue. 'I have been been told told that that this this ingenious ingenious idea
idea belonged belonged to to a a '1 have fashionable pastry-cook in Bordeaux;
others have said that fashionable pastry-cook in Bordeaux; others have said that it
was another pastry-cook in Bordeaux. Bordeaux. Whoever Whoever he he was, was, l I
it was another pastry-cook in am grateful to him for this delightful innovation; I
regret not am grateful to him for Ihis delightful innovation; l regret not being
able to associate his name with that of men of reputabeing able to associate his
name with that of men of reputation.' This remark implies that the paper cornet was
not usod in This remark implies that the paper cornet was not usee! in p&tisserie
until the beginning of the nineteenth century. This pâtisserie untilthe beginning
of the nineteenth century. This seerns improbable, one thinks thinks that preceding
centuries, that in centuries, seems improbable, if if one in preceding especially
in the eighteenth century, the decoration of cold the eighleenth century, the
decoration of cold especially in dishes and sweets had been perfected. dishes and
sweets had been perfected. Car6me adds can use use the 'to form cornet 'to sponge
Carême adds that that one one can the cornet fonn sponge fingers, crcquettes d la
reine and biscottes d la parisienie'. fingers, croquelles à la reine and biscolles
à la parisienne'.
carcase.

CORhIELIAN

W*{^

ch

Orezza
a

hi#s,#
tion.'

CORNFLOUR or CORNSTARCH. rfcurr or rr,rds - White CORJ"Ij"FLOUR or CORNSTARCH.

FÉCULE DE MAls - White flour used for thickening, and in puddings. It is milled
from flOUf used for thickening, and in puddings. It is milled from corn (Indian
corn or maize). corn (Indian corn or maize). CORN OIL. uulu DE MAis Corn oil is
CORN OrL. HU1LE DE MAÏS - Corn oil is used used extensivelv extensively in in the
U.S.A. for salad dressings, frying and as a shortening in the U.S.A. for salad
dressings, frying and as a shortening in baking. baking. CORN A variety of
valeriana CORN SALAD. SALAD. uAcnr MÂCHE - A variety of valerialla also also known
known larnb's as lamb's lettuce. letluce. This This plant plant grows grows wild
wild in in Europe, Europe, North North America, North Africa and Asia Minor. It has
been America, North Africa and Asia MinoT. Il has been imimproved by cultivation,
and is eaten in salad. In Europe it is on proved by cultivation, and is eaten in
salad. In Europe it is on the market during the autumn. It was brought to America
in the market during the autumn. Il was brought to America in the early part of the
the carly part of the nineteenth ninetcenth century century and and is is
cultivated cultivated commercially and in gardens. commercially and in gardens.
Gastronomic Gastronomie map map of of Corsica Corsica

SPINACH). SPINACH).

Corn Corn salad salad can can also also be he cooked cooked like like spinach
spinach

(see (see

COROZO COROZO - White White substance, substance, used used in in industry,

industry, taken taken from from the seed ofthe fruit ofa palm tree. Corozo flour
has been used the seed of the fruit ofa palm tree. Corozo f10ur l'las been used as
bran flour for bread, but this is forbidden today. as bran flour for bread, but
tbis is fOfbidden today.
CORRECT. coRRrcER - In cooking, to correct a dish means CORRECT. CORRIGER - In
cooking, to correct a dish means to modify a too-predominant too-predominant
flavour flavour by by adding adding another another to modify a

savoury substance. sa voury su bstance. CORSICA. Mediterranean island, which

CORSrCA, coRsECORSE- Mediterranean island, which is isaa French French dipartement.
Corsican cookery is simple. The Corsican is département. Corsican eookery is
simple. The Corsican is frugal. He no longer lunches dans le tiroir'outof the
drawer'. frugal. He no longer lunches dans le tiroir 'out of the drawer', (the main
part of his meal consisting of chestnuts kept in the (the main part of his meal
eonsisting of ehestnuts kept in the drawer drawer of of a a cupboard); cupboard);
but but he he eats eats dishes dishes based based on on fish. fish, shellfish, and
other/ruits de mer,which are plentiful. shellfish, and other fruits de mer, which
are plentiful. The sea around Corsica produces abundant fish, spiny The sca around
Corsica produces abundant fish, spiny Iobsters and other shellfish. Lampreys and
trout are found in lobsters and other shellfish. Lampreys and trout are found in
the lakes and streams of the island. Corsica produces good the lakes and streams of
the island. Corsica produces good

good good quality. quality. Arbutus Arbutus trees, trees, which which produce
produce red red acid acid fruits reminiscent of strawberries, strawberries, grow
gTOw in in the the Maquis. Maquis. reminiscent of Sheep Sheep give give good good
meat, meat, goats goats are are eaten eaten young, young, and and there there are
are fine-quality fine-quality pigs, pigs, from from which which several several
excellent excellent types types of of charcuterie charcuterie are are made. made.
Game Game abounds abounds in in Corsica. Corsica. Though Though rare, rare, the the
mouflon, mouflon, or or wild wild sheep, sheep, is is still still found. found. In
ln the the forests forests are are woodcock; woodcock; and and the the blackbirds,
blackbirds, fed fed on on myrtle myrtle and and arbutus, arbutus, are are
succulent. succulent. The The old old French French proverb proverb which wruch
says saysfau/e de grives, grives, on on mange mange les les faute de merles
(failing thrushes, thrushes, one one eats eats blackbirds) blackbirds) could cou Id
hardly hardly merles (failing apply apply to to Corsica, Corsica, where where the
the hunter hunter who who has has killed killed a a few few of of these t l'lese
delicate de li ca te blackbirds, black bi rds, is is upset upset if if one one or
or two two thrushes thrushes are are found found among among them. them. The The
best best Corsican Corsican cheese cheese is is Broccio, 8roceio, used used for for
sweets swects such such as as fritelles fritelles and, and figadones. figadones.
The The ewes' ewes' milk ntilk cheese cheese is is sent sent to to Roquefort,
Roquefort, where where it it is is made made into into blue blue cheese. cheese.
Corsican Corsican wines wines are are varied, varied, and and some, sorne, without
without rivalling rivalling those of Guyenne, Guyenne, Burgundy, Burgundy, or or
the the C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne, Rhône, are are those of excellent. Among them them
are are those those of of Cap Cap Corse, Corse, portoPortoexcellent. Among Vecchio,
Vecchio,Cervione, Cervione,Olmeto, Olmeto,Corte, Corte,and andthe theheady
headyMalvoisies, Malvoisies, made madein in the theneighbourhood neighbourhood of
ofCap Cap Corse. Corse. Culinary Amongthem themare arevarious variousfish fish
soups, soups, Culinaryspecialities specialities-- Among some sorneof ofthem
themlike likethe theMarseillq Marseillesbouillabarsse, bouillabaisse,and
andflavourid tlavoured with with garlic, garlic, pimento, pimento, capsicunr,
capsicum, and and saffron1; saffron; the theanchoiade, ancholade, similar similar
to to the the one one made made in in Nice; Nice; various vaüous hors hors deuvre:
d'œuvre; all ail
276 276

vegetables, vegetabJes, and and plums, plums, peaches, peaches, cherries, almonds,
oranges oranges and and lemons lemons grow grow in in the the orchards. orchards.
Corsican Corsican fip figs are famous. Olives and chestnuts chestnuts grow grow
everywhere. Vines Vines give wines wines of Olives and
COULIBIAC
kinds of of shellfish and and other otber fruits fruits de mer, whicb which are
eaten kinds
and his friends, friends, and retold this this criticism criticism to to his Saint-
Evremond SaintEvremond retold in the the end end they they were were words so so
often that that in the words they repeated the (the three after which which the the
coteaux' (the three hillsides), hillsides), after called 'les trois coteaux' soon
came came into being. Ordre des des coteaux very soon paste. The famous is is the
one The mûst most famous the one COTIGNAC COTIGNAC - Quince paste. at Orléans. made
industrially at Orl6ans.

raw or cooked in a a court-bouillon. court-bouillon . Also Aiso deserving deserving

special raw mention are are stockfish, prepared in the same way as in Nice; Nice;
mention
langoustes cooked a court-bouillon court-bouillon or or braised braised; langoustes
cooked in a ; various local fish fried fried in in olive olive oil, oil, braised,
braised, baked baked in the oven, oyen, or cooked in fish various ways ways similar
similar to those those used used on the mainland. mainland. various Other
specialities specialities are the lonzo, lonzo , a fillet of of pork, typical of
Other the country country (see (see LONZO);coppa, LONZO); coppa, a a highly highly
flavoured ftavoured sausage; the prisuttu, raw raw ham; barn; omelette omelette au
broccio; figatelli, figatelli, a prisuttu, a sausage sausage mutton ; ; assaignes
assaignes ;: pebronata pebronata of of beef, braised braised beef beef flavoured
ftavoured mutton juniper; missiasoga missiasoga made with goat's ftesh with
juniper:. flesh cured in the

joint in the oyen. oven.

a means to to turn turn a culinarv term which means COTOYER - French culinary

made of pig's liver; ragottt ragoût of of pork with with beans : stuffatu of beans;
made

sun ; cabris and roasted or mississa, or stewed; stewed; mississa, sun; and cabiros
(kid), roasted slashed, marinated, marinated, smoked and cooked on on a a smoked
and fillet of pork slashed,
tripa, sheep's belly belly or or intestines intestines stuffed grill; a mixture
mixture of grlll; tripa,sheep's with a stuffed with spinach, beet beet andfines and
fines herbes, herbes, combined with sheep's sheep's blood, tied up up like like a
boudin boudin (black (black pudding), pudding), and and cooked in salted cooked in
salted tied water. water. Not to to be be forgotten forgotten are are Corsican
Corsican polenta, made as as in ltaly; Italy; Not accuncciatu , a a stew stew of of
goat meat or lamb or or mutton, with accuncciatu, or lamb potatoes; and small
intestines intestines with sheep's sheep's small made with potatoes; tripettes,
made and tripettes, cut into into squares, and lard with with tomatoes tomatoes and
saut6ed in in lard fried, sautéed cut squares, fried, various condiments.
condiments. The is now now rarely de mouflon mouflon is ragoitt de The ragoût
various made, sinoe since the the wild have almost disappeared. disappeared. wild
sheep sheep have made, More exotic incIude blackbirds which are are roasted
blackbirds which More exotic dishes dishes include and wrapped in ; pitis; into
salmis salmis or pâtés leaves, or or made made into in sage sage leaves, and
wrapped woodcock à with partridges ; wild boar boar with salmis of of partridges:
cacciatore ; salmis woodcock d la la cacciatore; pibronata sauce. pibronata sauce.
Among sweet flour; with chestnut chestnut ftour; are brio/i, made with brioli, made
Among sweet dishes dishes are fritelle, a a tart made tart made Broccio cheese;
cheese; fladène, with Broccio fritter with fladine, a fritelle, a fritter with
Broccio a ftan, flan, vanilla; fijadone, with vanilla; with Broccio and and
ftavoured flavoured with fiiadone, a panette douce, and sugar, decorated panette
made witb with eggs eggs and sugar, decorated a bread douce, a bread made with
(eaten at with cake decorated decorated with a cake torta, a raisins (eaten at
Easter); Easter); torta, with raisins ; pine kernels with aniseed aniseed; pine
almonds and and flavoured flavoured with kernels or or almonds mig/iassis,
preleaves; prechestnut leaves; migliassis, cakes oven on baked in in the on
chestnut the oyen cakes baked serves in cooked in and other fruits; chestnuts
chestnuts cooked made with other fruits; citron and serves made with citron various
various ways. ways. There cddratine. is also liqueur called called cédratine. There
is also an an excellent excellent liqueur

in the As in the COTRIADE BOUILLABAISSE -- As COTRIADE or or BRETON BOUILLABAISSE

cotriade, the the in the the cotl'iade, fish there are in bouillabaisse, more fish
there are bouillabaisse, the the more better. following: These from among among the
the following: These fish chosen from fish should should be be chosen
(chrysophrys), sardine, Dory, daurade daurade (chrysophrys), mackerel, John
sardine, mackerel, John Dory, gurnet, red baudroie a devil), red mullet, (sea
mullet, conger eeJ, eel, gurnet, devil), hake, hake, conger baudroie (se etc. One
or included. can be large fish fish heads heads can be incIuded. or two two large
(on a Heat a wood wood fire) fire) in a a cauldron cauldron (on lard in Heat sorne
or lard some butter butter or pale and ions in in it. it. When When the the onions
onions tum turn pale onions and cook cook quartered on (scant pint, pint, 2* 2f,
gold, litre (scant gold, moisten allowing 1 moisten with with water, water,
allowing I litre quarters, thyme, cups) potatoes cut per person. person. Add cut in
in quarters, thyme, bay bay Add potatoes cups) per and . Bring Put the the sliced
fish on on top top Bring to to the the boil. boil. Put sliced fish herbs. and other
other herbs of potatoes. Cook rapidly. the potatoes. Cook rapidly. of the Put pour
in in the liquor. a tureen and pour the liquor. Put sIices of bread in a tureen and
slices of bread in Serve potatoes. a large large dish, dish, with with the the
potatoes. fish separately, on a Serve the the fish separately, on
COUCHER pdti force stuffing, meaning to to force stuffing, pâté term, meaning
French term, COUCHER -- French or forcing-(pastry-) bag bag pur6e on with aa
forcing-(pastry-) a baking sheet with or purée on to to a baking sheet using
nozzle. a round round or or ftuted fluted nozzle. using a COUCH plant, the rhithe
rhiCommon plant, cHIENDENT -- Common COUCH GRASS. GRASS. CHIENDENT zomes as a a
diuretic diuretic.. are infused infused as which are zomes of of which COUCOUZELLE
fruits of variety name for for the the fruits of aa variety French name COUCOUZELLE
-- French of grown.They They are are picked before it is is fully fully grown.
gourd which which is is picked before it of gourd called zucchind in in Italy.
Italy. and zuchetti zuchetti or or zucchini in France, France, and called
courgettes courgettes in COULAGE grapes. Also from waste resuIting resulting from
Disease of Also waste of grapes. COULAGE -- Disease Inadequate in kitchen kitchen
work. work. inadequate supervision supervision in COULIBIAC pie. Plumerey (Russian
cookery) hot fish fish pie. Plumerey cookery) -- A A hot COULIBIAC (Russian gives
gives the n L'Art L'Art de de la la cuisine caisine française au recipe in the
following following recipe frangaise au x/xe "siècle: XIXe; siicle: 'In pie is 'In
St is made made with with salmon salmonand and soudac, soudac, this pie St
Petersburg, Petersburg, this but (the most prized fish most prized fish in in with
sterlet sterlet (the occasions with but on on state state occasions Russia).
Russia). 'In fish, they are they are 'In Paris, have neither neither of of these
these fish, Paris, where where we we have replaced given here here is isfor for
twelve twelve replaced by The description description given turbot. The by turbot.
to persons. It diminish it it It is is easy easy to to increase increaseor or
diminish to fourteen fourteen persons. according guests. number of of guests.
according to to the the number 'Take (4-inch) slice 'Take aa 10-cm. andthe thesame
same lO-cm. (4-inch) slice of of salmon sakhon and amount 12square and cut cutit it
into into 12 square amount of remove the the ftesh flesh and turbot; remove of
turbot; pieces. ion, sorne and plenty of parsley, spring pieces. Chop onion,
chivesand springon some chives Chop plenty of parsley, two ail baskets) putthem
(small and put inaa punnets (sm ofmushrooms mushroomsand them in two punnets
baskets) of ; salt ; pepper; large (8oz., pepper; g.(8 pan with cup) butter salt;
large sauté with 225 225 g. oz.,JI cup) butter; saut6pan allspice; clove; nutmeg
nutmeg and andcinnamon. cinnamon. When When they are they are allspice; clove;
softened, put in piecesof glass Madeira, Madeira, put inthe fishand and softened,
add add1I glass thepieces of fish simmer gently until simmer gently until cooked.
cooked. Take fish and good pieces of Take out andlet let them themcool. cool. Put
Putaagood out the the pieces offish tablespoon (se SAUCE) Espagnole sauce sauce(see
SAUCE)into into the the fines tablespoon Espagnole fines herbes, put in foruse
lateron. on. basin for uselater andput inaabasin herbes, boil boil down, down, and
'Hard-boil 6 eggs op the 'Hard-boil6 yolks.Put Put whitesand andthe theyolks. eggs
and andch chop thewhites 225 me (buckwheat) into (8 oz.) pan with g. (8 into aapan
withthe 225 g. oz.) kache kache(buckwheat) thesa same volume and saIt. When
ititbegins salt. When beginsto to water,sorne volume of of water, some butter,
butter, and boil, (2oz., g.(2 from the heat. Mix Mix in in50 50g. oz.,!I cup)
cup)fine fine removefrom theheat. boil, remove butter, Thebuckwheat for 15 15or
20minutes. minutes.The will andcook cookfor or20 buckwheat will butter, and swell
grains must mustbe fromone one beseparate separate from rice;the likeIndian Indian
rice; thegrains swelllike another. plate. another. Pour Pour out out onto onto
aaplate. 'Take (seeDOUGH), 'Takesorne lessfine DOUGH),Jess finethan than Brioche
dough dough (see some Brioche usual. one 2lcm. cm. into22sheets, sheets, one21
Makeititinto Roll itit out outtwice. twice.Make usual. Roll (1 (l inch) Laythe
thethicker thicker one oneon onaa theother. other. Lay inch) thicker thicker than
than the 277 277

COTEAUX, - The name given in in name coteaux coteaux was was given DES-The COTEAUX,
ORDRE ORDRE DES the people of refined taste, taste, who who not not of refined
seventeenth century century to to people the seventeenth only had the wines, but
the were able able to distinguish the the best best wines, but had only were to
distinguisb same good living. living. which concerned concerned good for everything
everything which same taste taste for The poet, de wrote: The poet, Villiers,
wrote: de Villiers, Ces hommes admirables, Ces hommes admirables, Ces petits
délicats, tables, ces vrais vrais amis amis de de tables, dilicats, ces Ces petits
Eux souverains, qu'on en peut nommer dignes souverains, Eux qu'on nommer les les
dignes en peut Savent tous les coteaux où croissent les vins. bons vins. Savent
tous les coteaux oil croissent les bons Et goftt leur cette science, science, Et
leur acquh cette leur goût leur ayant ayant acquis Du grand nom en France. France.
on les les appelle appelle en de Coteaux Coteaux on Du grand nom de These men,
admirable men, These admirable These good living, living, people, these friends of
of good true friends These fastidious fastidious people, these true One worthy
sovereigns, sovereigns, One can can name name them them worthy They good wine wine
which the the good They who know ail all the the slopes slopes on on which who know
grows. grows. Their taste, acquired through through taste, Their science having
been been acquired science having They great name name of of Coteaux. Coteaux. in
France France by the great They are are called called in by the Connoisseurs
jokingly called 'profts good living living were called 'profès were jokingly of
good Connoisseurs of dans dans l'ordre l'ordre des des coteaux'. coteaux'. The
follows : One day M. Lavardin, The origin is as origin of title is as follows: One
day M. Lavardin, of this this title Bishop who was was Bishop of was chaffing
chaffing Saint-Evremond, Saint-Evremond, who of Mans, Mans, was dining 'These
gentlemen', gentlemen', he he refinement. 'These his refinement. with him, him, on
on his dining with of comte d'Olonne and of the marquis said, speaking de said,
speaking of comte d'Olonne and of the marquis de Bois-Dauphin, 'exaggerate
everything from the the need need to to Bois-Dauphin, 'exaggerate everything from
refine wine drink unless unless the the wine refine everything. They are are not
not able able to to drink everything. They cornes Haut-Villiers, or or Ai, of of
Haut-Villiers, comes from from one of the the hillsides hillsides of of Ai, one of
Avenau.' Avenau.'
COULIS COULIS
baking sheet, sheet, spread spread sorne some buckwheat buckwheat on it, then on
it, then a a layer layer of of baking fish, another another layer layer of of
buckwheat, buckwheat, fines herbes, sauce, sauce, the the fish, fines herbes, eggs,
and and so so on, on, until until everything everything is is used. used. Coyer
Cover with with the the eggs, second sheet dough, tri sheet of of dough, trim,
moisten the the edges, edges, and and draw draw up up m, moisten second the edges
edges of lower sheet of the the lower sheet so so that that it it covers covers the
of the the the edge edge of the pie must The pie upper. The must be be the the
shape pantin in shape of of what what is is called called a a pantin in upper.
Paris. Moisten Moisten it it outside outside and and coyer lightly with cover
lightly with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Paris. gentle oyen Put it it in in a a
gentle oven for for 1 l| hours, and and serve serve straight straight from from Put
-! hours, the oyen, oven, with with melted melted butter.' butter.' the poulet à
Petib coulibiacs coulibiacs de (Russian chicken de poulet i la la russe russe
(Russian pie) chicken pie) Petits (Plumerey's recipe) parsley, mushrooms recipe)
mushrooms and and spring spring (Plumerey's 'Chop parsley, -'Chop and cook onions,
and cook them them in in butter. little blanched, butter. Add Add a a little
blanched, onions, pepper and chopped horseradish, horseradish, salt, grated nutmeg.
salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. chopped When this is browned, this seasoning
seasoning is add a browned, add a small small spoonful spoonful When (see SAUCE).
sauce (see SAUCE). Boil Boil down, down, and and take take off off the the
Espagnole sauce heat. Add Add cooked cooked breast chicken cut breast of of chicken
cut into into large large dice, dice, heat. (4 oz., g. (4 good 100 g. oz., l* cup)
cup) rice rice which which has has been been cooked cooked in in good 100 consomm6,
and and chopped plate to chopped hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Put Put on on a a plate to
consommé, cool. cool. 'Roll out puff pastry pastry four out sorne some puff four
times. Let it times. Let it rest rest for for 10 l0 'Roll minutes, roll it out
patties and out to a a thickness thickness suitable little patties for !ittle and
suitable for minutes, cut them pastry on them out. out. Lay Lay 24 24 rounds rounds
of of pastry a damp damp metal metal on a cut and moisten sheet and moisten them.
Put a a lump lump of them. Put the mixture mixture on of the on each, each, sheet
press together cover and and press together to to close. close. Moisten Moisten
them, and them, and coyer grated breadcrumbs. sprinkle with freshly grated
breadcrumbs. 'Cook in a a medium oyen give them oven for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes;
give them a a 'Cook good colom colour and and serve.' good are served served as as
a a hot entrée. enffie. These patties are past, sauces COUI,IS In the the past,
general were sauces in in general were called COULIS called coulis coulis - ln
(cullis). More precisely, precisely, coulis are the juices which run out of
(cullis). of the meat during cooking. the authors say pur6es should Some authors
say that liquid purées that liquid should be called Sorne be called couliso and and
that that this this word word should should not not be coulis, be used used except
except for for pur6es, game purées, pur6es, fish pur6es and fish purées and those
of chicken purées, shellofshellfish and and vegetables. Some of these coulis can
can be be served served as as soup. Sorne soup. The principal h la reine. type is
potage potage à juice, coulis is what we call veal As well veal stock stock (fonds
weil as juice, de Qfonds de veau'1, Car6me called blond blond de de veau. vesu.
veau), and what Carême In modern practice the word coulis is is often used ln used
for thick soups pur6e of are made with a a purée of shellfish: shellfish: coulis
made with soups which which are (crayfish cullis), d Ccrevisses (craynsh (crab), de
coulis de de crabes crabes (crab), cullis), coulis d'écrevisses de (lobster), de
homard (prawns), is de crevettes is often crevettes (prawns), homard (lobster),
often used instead etc. instead of of bisque bisque d'icrevisses, d'écrevisses,
etc.

COUP DE DE VIN YINThe amount amount ofwine COUP - The of wine that that can can be
drunk in inaa bedrunk gulp. single gulp. single COUPE JACQUES JACQUFS -- Fruit
Fruit soaked soaked in in liqueurs liqueurs and COUPE and covered covered (see ICE
with various various ices ices (see ICE CREA CREAMS MS AND with AND ICES). ICES).
COURGETTES -- See ITALIAN See IT MARROWS. COURGETTES ALlAN MARROWS.

COIJLOMMIERS CHEESE See CHEESE. COULOMMIERS CHEE SE CHEESE. - See

a commerCOUPAGE - Mixing Mixing of of various wines to obtain a cial blend of of
colour, col our, strength, and uniform unifonn taste.

COUP D'AVANT wine, of liqueur or D'AVANT - The The glass of wine, or any alcohol
a1cohol which which is taken immediately immediately before before a meal. This
term is hardly used now. generous now. It is is used more often often for the
generous glass glass of of wine which is drunk after the soup. This custom has been
been passed passed from generation to generation, and is still found found in
different different countries, countries, in particular in rural communities.
communities. The picturesque language language of of the Middle Ages gave names to
to the the different drinks drinks which which were imbibed imbibed in in
particular circumstances. circumstances. At court, court, and among the great,
great, there there was the vin vin &t du coucher (night-cap); in the the middle of
the the meal, the coup coup dt du milieu milieu (this custom still exists in
Champagne). At a time travelled except except on horseback the time when when
hardly hardly anyone travelled glass glass of wine wine which which was taken taken
when setting out was was given given the name of of coup coup de l'dtrier l'étrier
(stirrup cup). the name

(liquid) in COURT-BOUILLON -- An An aromatic COURT-BOUILLON aromatic liquor liquor

(liquid) in which meat, meat, fish fish and and various various vegetables
vegetables are which are cooked. cooked. grecqug for Court-bouillon l, la grecque,
I, àI la Court-bouillon for marinating marinating vegetables. vegetables. pouR
LÉGUMES couRT-BourrloN À A LA LA GRECQUE, cREceuE, POUR COURT-BOUILLON t fcuvrrs
MARINÉS rue.nluns -(6 tablespoons, Put 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant pints,
scant -! Put cup) olive olive oil, oil, 7 7dl. dl. (l{ pints, * cup) juice of
pints) water l| water and and the the strained strained juice lemons in pan. -!
pints) 1 2 lemons of 2 in aa pan. garni of Add a a bouquet parsley roots, bouquet
garni Add of parsley roots, celery, celery, fennel, fennel, thyme, thyme, 12 to 15
coriander bay; 12 to 15 coriander seeds bay; seeds and and the the same same number
number of of peppercorns. Boil Boil for for 20 peppercorns. 20 minutes. minutes.
Use Use according according to to instrucinstructions. This This amount amount is
is enough tions. enough for for 25 25 to to 30 30 small small artichokes artichokes
or or quantity of an equal equal quantity prepared à an other vegetables ofother
vegetables prepared grecque. d la la grecque. grecque, for Court-bouillon II,
Court-bouillon If, ài la h grecque, for marinating marinatirg fish. fish. pouR
POISSONS porssoNs MARINÉS COURT-BOUILLON couRT-Bor.nnoN À A LA LA GRECQUE, cREceuE,
POUR umrNfs -(4 oz., g. (4 Gently Gently simmer simmer 100 100 g. I cup) finely
chopped oz., 1 cup) finely chopped onion onion in in (* pin pint, dl. (! cup) olive
I-! t, t olive oil. oil. Do Do not not allow allow the the onion to onion to U dl.
f cup) ({ pint, Moisten with pint, t3 cup) brown. Moisten brown. with I-! 1| dl.
dl. (! cup) white white wine, wine, I-! l} dl. dl. juice of (! cup) water water and
and the the strained lemon. strained juice I lemon. of 1 Q pint, t 3 cup) garlic
clove, Add Add an an unpeeled, unpeeled, crushed garni of crushed garlic clove, a a
bouquet bouquet garni of parsley roots, 2 parsley roots, a 2 a sprig of thyme,
thyme, a a bay leaf, and and a sprig of a sprig bay leaf, sprig of of fresh fennel;
fennel; 10 l0 or 12 coriander or 12 coriander seeds, pimentos, and 2 2 sweet seeds,
and sweet pimentos, skinned skinned and and cut into strips. cut into strips.
Season Season with with lf teaspoon teaspoon salt and salt and pinch of ground
pepper. a a pinch freshly ground of freshly Boil for for 15 15 minutes. Boil
minutes. Use Use according according to to the the recipe. recipe. This This amount
of (generous 1 amount is enough court-bouillonis of court-bouillon g. (generous
enough for for 500 500 g. I lb.) lb.) (net weight). fish fish (net weight). Court-
bouillon III, III, salt salt water. water. COURT-BOUILLON couRT-Bourrr,oN À A L'EAU
r'El,u SALÉE slrm -- This This consists consists of of salt salt water water in in
the the proportion of 1] of I-! (scant quart, teaspoons salt I litre (scant quart,
generous to 1 generous quart) quart) water. salt to water. It is is used poach
various It perch, sea used to to poach various fish fish such as sea dace, such as
sea perch, sea dace, coalfish, cod, cod, white fish, fish, haddock, haddock, etc.
etc. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon IV, IV, for for salmon salmon and trout.
COURTard salmon salmon trout. couRTpouR SAUMONS BOUILLON BourLLoN POUR sAUMoNs ET
ET TRUITES TRUrrEs SAUMONÉES slurrloNfrs -- Made Made with with juice or water;
water; lemon juice vinegar; sliced or vinegar; sliced onions onions and and
carrots; carrots; parsley; thyme; parsley; peppercorns. These thyme; bay leaf; salt
salt and bay leaf; and peppercorns. These fish fish can also be cooked in a be
cooked a white white wine wine court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Court-bouillon
Court-bouillon V, V, for fon lobster lobster and and other other shellfish.
shellfish. COURTcouRrpouR LANGOUSTES BOUILLON BoLJTLLoN POUR LANcousrEs ET E-r
AUTRES AUTRES CRUSTACÉS cnusrlcns -- Made with ions ; parsley; with water; water;
thinly thinly sliced sliced carrots carrots and and on onions; thyme; peppercorns.
thyme; bay leaf; leaf; salt salt and and peppercorns. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon
VI, Vf, for for lobster lobster and other shellfish. and other shellfish.
COURTcouRrpouR LANGOUSTES BOUILLON BourLLoN POUR LANGousrEs ET Er AUTRES AUTRES
CRUSTACÉS cnusr.lcns -- Often Often used for cooking cooking shellfish. shellfish.
It is is made made with salt water flavoured with thyme and and bay. Court-bouillon
Court-bouillon VII, VII, au au bleu, bleuo for for river river trout, trout carp,
carp, pike.

(1*

poLJR TRUITES COURT-BOUILLON couRT-BouILLoN AU AU BLEU, BLEU, POUR TRUITES DE oE

RIVIÈRE, nlvtiinr, CARPES cARpEs

COUP COUP DE FEU FEU - The effect effect which is created created by a joint joint
being charred. charred. being Also Aiso used used in in professional professional
cookery cookery for for the the hours hours devoted devoted to serving up up a a
meal. meal. serving

Made of salt salt water water and and vinegar, flavoured - Made with carrots and
sliced onions, parsley, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, leaf, salt and pepper. (see
TROUT, and TROUT, Blue trout). Court-bouillon V[I, VITI, white Cout-bouillon white
wine, wine, à la hongroise. i la hongroise. COURTcouRTBOUILLON AU AU vrN VIN BLANC,
Melt BourLLoN BLANc, À A LA ul HONGROISE uoNcRorsE Melt 1 I large onion in in 1
tablespoon minced onion I tablespoon butter butter until until soft. Season a
bouquet garni. Season with salt, paprika pepper, and andabouquet Moisten with 6 (1
pint, pin t, 2-! Moisten 6 dl. (1 2] cups) dry white wine. Boil for for 8 minutes.
court-bouillon fish prepared This c rused for fi Thrs our t - b ou i I I on is used
ar ed as as hors-d'œuvre. sh prep ho r s - d' e uv r e . be made with olive oil
instead instead of of butter. butter. It can be lX, vegetable. vegetable. couRr-
Bourr,I,oN COURT-BOUILLON AUX Court-bouillon I& Court-bouillon AUX Cook 25 25 g.0
g. (1 oz., oz.,! cup) finely chopped LÉGUMES - Cook rfcuMss chopped onion and and I
cup) g. (l (1 oz., I ! cup) cup) finely chopped carrot in in a 25 g. a tablespoon
Dr oil. Season with salt and and pepper. Add Add 2 crushed butter or crushed
bouquet garni. garlic cloves cloves and and a bouquet garlic
ET ET BROCHETS BRocI{ETs -

278 278
COUSCOUS couscous
Moisten Moisten with with 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2] 2} cups) cups) dry dry
white white wine. wine. Boil Boil for 10 minutes. minutes. This This is is used
used for for fish fish and and other other food food served served as as for 10
hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Court-bouillon X, X, au au vert vert - Cook Cook 100
100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) sorrel sorrel Court-bouillon leaves; leaves; 25 25 g. g.
(l (1 oz.) oz.) very very young young nettle nettle leaves; le av es ; a a few few
sprigs sprigs of of parsley; parsley; I1tablespoon tablespoon each each ofsavory,
of savory, burnet burnet and and green green sage; sage; teaspoon tarragon tarragon
and and a a sprig sprig of of thyme thyme in in 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons I1
teaspoon (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Season Season with with
salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten Moisten with 6 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint,
pint, 2* 2} cups) cups) white white wine. wine. Cook Cook for for 8 8 minutes'
minutes. with au vert vert (set (set to to stiffen in in herbs herbs Used for for
small small fish fish cooked au Used before the the white white wine wine is is
added). added). before After the the fish fish is is cooked. cooked, the court-
bouillon court-bouillon is is thickened After with egg egg yolks, yolks, and and
made acid with with a few drops of lemon with juice. juice. (See EEL, EEL, Eels
Eels au vert). vert). Court-bouillon Xf, XI, white white wine, for for fish fish in
marinade. marinade. couRrCOURTCourt-bouillon BOUILLON AU AU VrN vIN BLANC, BLANC,
POLJR POUR POISSONS rr{lnmns MARlNÉ'; - Put into a BOUILLON pan2 pan 2 small tender
carrots cut in thin th in scalloped rounds; I 1 in thin thin slices; 2 finely
chopped sticks sticks of small onion cut in sliced shallots; a small sm ail handful
of parsley stalks; celery; 2 sliced 2 sprigs sprigs of of thyme and a bay leaf.
leaf. 2 (| pint, scant cup) white wine and I Moisten with 2 dl. (t 1 dl. Moisten (6
tablespoons, scant 1 } cup) vinegar. Season with salt and with the ground pepper.
Boil for for 15 minutes. Pour, with freshly ground MARIvegetables, over over fish
(see MARIh marinade marinade (see d la fish prepared à vegetables, NADE). Cook
according according to to the the instructions instructions given in in the NADE).
recipe. recipe. be correctly The vegetables in in this this court-bouillon should
be The with the served with sliced are usually usually served as they they are and
scalloped, scalloped, as sliced and marinated fish. la mirepoix (for braised Court-
bouillon i la wine, à Court-bouillon XII, white wine, A LA vIN BLANC, BLANc, À AU
VIN or poached fish). counr-BoullloN AU fish). COURT-BOUILLON or poached (+ pint,
pint, scant cup) vegetable MIREPOIX scant cup) 2 dl. dl. (t Simmer 2 MrREpoIx -
Simmer powdered thyme, powdered mirepoix (q.v.) (carrot, leek, on ion, celery,
thyme, onion, (| pint, pint, scant cup) bay leaf) in butter, and dl. (t and moisten
with 2 dl. dry white wine. (] pint, pint, li l* cups) fish cups) fish Boil 3 dl.
dl. (} thirds. Add 3 Boil down down by two thirds. by two instructo instrucfumet
(q.v.). Boil l0 minutes. minutes. Use according to for 10 Boil for fumet tions.
couRr mirepoix. COURT Court-bouillon i la la mirepoix. Champagne, à XIII,
Champagne, Court-bouillon XIII, Made in in the the BOUILLON rvlnnpolx A LA u
MIREPOIX BouILLoN AU AU VIN vIN DE DE CHAMPAGNE, cHAMpAcNE, À - Made of instead of
same using Champagne Champagne instead XII,using same way as as Court-bouillon
Court-bouillon XII, white wine. wine. couRrCourt-bouillon mirepoix. COURTla
mirepoix. red wine, wine, à i la XIV, red Court-bouillon XIV, BOUILLON in the same
Made in the same i LA I-.1 MIREPOIX mnepox -- Made BouILLoN AU AU VIN vIN ROUGE,
RoucE, À Burgundy or or wayas from Burgundy red wine wine from XII, using using red
way as Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII, peelings can can Bordeaux wine. Mushroom
Mushroom peelings white wine. instead of of white Bordeaux instead be it la la
mirepoix. mirepoix. for ail all court-bouillons court-bouillons à used for be used
Simple ofral -- Coyer Cover 2 2 and offal meats and for Meats XV, for court-
bouillon XV, Simple court-bouillon and carrot and tablespoons of shredded shredded
carrot each of (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) each tablespoons (3 onion; 10
peppercorns garlic I clove ofgarlic peppercorns and and 1 clove of garni;10 I
bouquet bouquet garni; onion; 1 with the adding the minutes before before adding l0
to 15 minutes to 15 for 10 Boil for salted water. water. Boil with salted meat.
meat. Court-bouillon PouR VIANDESvIANDES BLANc POUR for Meat. meat. BLANC white,
for XVI, white, Court-bouillon XVI, (variety meats), as Used meats), such such as
offal (variety certain offal for cooking Used for cooking certain heads, and combs
sheeps' tongues and and cocks' cocks'combs feet, calves' calves'heads, and feet,
sheeps'tongues and kidneys. and kidneys. (see below) adding one Proceed one XIX
(see below) adding for Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XIX Proceed as asfor medium-
sized quarters; one studded one onion onion studded in quarters; cut in carrot cut
medium-sized carrot with (q.v.). garni (q.v.). abouquet bouquet garni clove;and and
a with aa clove; Put court-bouillon. into the the boiling boiling court-bouillon.
meat into Put the the meat Court-bouillon BLANc calf's head. head. BLANC for
cooking cooking calf's white, for XVII, white, Court-bouillon XVII, pouR CUIRE POUR
cold water, water, with cold Mix flour flour with DEVEAU vEAU -- Mix rf;TE DE cuIRE
LA r.c,TÊTE generous using (scantquart, quart, generous per litre litre (seant t
heaped heaped tablespoon tablespoon per using 1 quart) into aa saucepan saucepan
Pour into quart) water, Strain. Pour smooth. Strain. water, until until smooth.
large inhalf, cutin half, or or whole, cut head, either either whole, the head,
totake take the large enough enough to in tablespoon andadd add 1I tablespoon
saltand teaspoon salt pieces.Season with 1I teaspoon in pieces. Season with vinegar
quart) water. Bring generous quart) water. Bring (scantquart, quart,generous per
litre litre(scant vinegar per to andaa with 22cloyes, cloves,and large onion
onionstudded studded with add1I large to the the boil, boil, add
279 279

bouquet bouquet garni garni made made of of a a sprig sprig of of parsley, parsley,
thyme thyme and and a a bay bay leaf. leaf. When When the the stock stock is is
boiling, boiling, put put in in the the calf's caIrs head head wrapped wrapped (9
generous in in a a fine fine muslin muslin cloth. clotho Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9
oz' oz., generous cup) cup) beef beef or or veal veal fat, fat, chopped chopped and
and soaked soaked in in cold co Id water. water. The The fat fat will will melt
melt and and form form a a protective protective layer layer over over the the
calf's calf's head head and and will will

prevent prevent it it from from going going black. black. Court-bouillon Court-
bouillon XYIII, XVIn, white, white, for for mushrooms. mushrooms. BLANc BLANC PouR
POUR cHAMpIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Also Also used used for for other other vegetables.
vegetables. Bring Bring 50 50 g. g. (2 I lemon (2 oz.,* oz., t cup) cup) butter,
butter, the the juice juice of of} lem on and and I 1 teaspoon teaspoon salt salt
to the boil in * cup) in I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant}
cup) water. water. Mushrooms Mushrooms or or other other vegetables vegetables are
are cooked cooked in in this this liquor liquor when when it it is is boiling.
boiling. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XIX, XIX, white, white, for for vegetables.
vegetables. BLANc BLANC PouR POUR liable to to rfcuurs LÉGUMES - Used for for
cooking cooking vegetables vegetables which which are are ]jable artichoke hearts,
cardoons, artichoke hearts, chards, cardoons, turn tum dark, dark, such such as as
chards, salsify, etc. 4 a smooth smooth paste (l oz., flour into g. (1 cup) flour
oz., I Mix 25 g. t cup) into a pa'Ste with with 4 Mix 25 (li pints, generous pints,
generous (* cup) I litre litre (làcup) water. tablespoons (t water. Add Add 1
sieve. Season Season fine sieve. a fine mix, and and strain strain through quart)
quart) water, water, mix, through a and 2 2 or lemon or 3 3 of j lem Add the the
juice salt. Add I teaspoon with with 1 teaspoon salt. juice of} on and suet. raw,
chopped chopped suet. tablespoons raw, to be cooked. vegetable to be cooked. Add
the the vegetable moments. Add Boil for a few moments. studded an on onion with an
spiced with can be be spiced This court-bouillon can This ion studded (q.v.), but
not is not garni (q.v.), this is but this a bouquet bouquet garni and a clove, and
a clove, with with a seasoned it have have to to be be seasoned in it cooked in
necessary if the ingredients cooked cooking. stage of cooking. at the final stage
keeps them them and keeps vegetables and cooks the the vegetables The court-
bouillon cooks The (or butter) is added, added, as as butter) is suet (or in view
view that that suet It is is with with this this in white. It from contact contact
vegetables from protects the the vegetables which protects a layer which it forms a
it with air.
bowl Acouscous couscous bowl A

dish, African dish, North African or COUSCOUSSOU COUSCOUSSOU -- North COUSCOUS or

COUSCOUS or millet flour, flour, or made with with millet It is is made times. It
earliest times. from the the earliest dating from dating (mutton, chicken, etc.).
chicken, etc.). meat(mutton, rice, and and meat with cru crushed with shed rice,
means becquetée becquetie couscous means word couscous the word say the authors say
Some authors Some its beak and in its beakand takes in which aabird bird takes food
which (pecked at), the food at),from from the (pecked inaa wrote in young. Leon
Isnard wrote Leon Isnard its young. to feed feed its rolls in in small bitsto small
bits rolls cooking: African cooking: on African book bookon versionof of is
aaGallic Gallic version couscoas is word couscous theword 'It seems that the 'It
seemsthat derives word der The word small. The crushed small. meaning crushed rac
keskes, keskes, meaning rac ives koskosou, keuscass, koskosou, koskos, keuscass,
nameskoskos, phonetically from fromthe thenames phonetically potof of foraapot
Africa for partsof North Africa ofNorth different parts indifferent kouskous, used
in kouskous,used The issteamed. steamed.The semolinais glassin which semolina
inwhich alfaglass oralfa earthenware earthenwareor another ofanother ontop topof
seton pierced with holes isisset withholes pot, which ispierced pot, which is
orstock. stock. wateror boilingwater onecontaining containing boiling similar
similarone forail all namefor thisname used this Africaused North Afriea 'The
inhabitants ofNorth 'The inhabitantsof (buckwheat whiteor orbrown brown (buckwheat
withflour, flour,white madewith kinds kinds of ofdishes dishesmade
COUSINETTE COUSINETTE
flour), and and steamed steamed in in the the keskass, keskass, aa receptacle
receptacle similar flour), similar to to aa basin. basin. 'But we we think think
that word couscous 'But that the the word couscous or couscoussou is or couscoussou
is onomatopoeic, simulatingthémoise simulating thenoise madt}.by <~ .\
onomatopoeic, made.by the steam as as it it the steam passes through through the
the holes holes of process of passes of the the utensil utensil in in the the
process of cooking. cooking. 'In Kabylia, Kabylia, the 'In the word word sekjou
sekjou is is used; used; in in the the Mozabite Mozabite dialect oucheou. oucheou.
However, However, for dialect for sorne some unknown unknown reason reason the the
people of gouni, borrowed people of Oued-Rigt adopted the Oued-Rigt have have
adopted the word wordgoznl borrowed from the from the Berbers.' Berbers.' There are
preparing couscous. There many ways ways of are many of preparing couscous. grain
by Cooking Cooking the the crushed cnrshcd grain by steaming. steaming. CUISSON DE
LA cussoN DE LA SEMOULE A L'ÉTUVÉE r'6tuvfs -- Soak grain in sEMouLE À Soak the the
crushed crushed grain in water water until until (a colander rainer, swollen.
swollen. Place Place in in the the cooking cooking vesse! vessel (a colander or or
st strainer, fitted pan, can fitted over a pan, pressing it over a can be used),
without without pressing be used), it down. down. Put some water pot, in Put sorne
water or or stock stock to to boil proporin the in the boil in the pot, the
propor(scant quart, quart, generous tion generous quart) quart) to (generous tion
of of 1 I litre litre (scant g. (generous to 500 500 g. (i.e. crushed 1 grain).
When I lb.) lb.) couscous couscoas (i.e. liquid begins When the crushed grain). the
liquid begins to to put the boil, the uncovered uncovered vessel vessel containing
grain boil, put containing the the crushed crushed grain (The vessel on pot. (The
grain is on top top of of the the pot. vessel in in which which the the grain is
steamed steamed must never come into contact come into contact with with the the
boiling boiling water.) water.) Place a a damp damp cloth cloth between point of
between the the two vessels at two vessels at the the point of contact to prevent
prevent the the steam steam escaping escaping round round the the edge. edge. When
When the steam steam begins to rise, cook to rise, cook for for 40 40 minutes.
minutes. Remove Remove from from the grain on Turn the plate. Fork the heat. heat.
Tum the grain a large large plate. Fork it it over on to to a over to to work out
any glasses of any lumps. lumps. Moisten Moisten with with two water and and two
glasses of water a a tablespoon oil. oil. Add Add salt salt and and pepper. Leave
for 15 l5 minutes. minutes. Retum Return the pot to the pot to the the heat, heat,
and and when when the water boils put put the the couscous couscous back in the
back in the steaming vessel. steaming vessel. Steam for a a further 20 20 minutes.
minutes. Cooking the crushed grain in in boiling crushed grain boiting water.
water. CUISSON DE LA cr.JrssoN DE LA pm ÉBULLITION SEMOULE sEMouLE PAR spoNTANns --
The fnunrrroN SPONTANÉE The steaming vessel is steaming vesse! is dispensed with.
Soak the couscous in the couscous in the the same way as as above. above. same way
Throw it into the boiling water or or stock, stock, stirring stirring meanwhile.
meanwhile. i pints, generous quart) Use (l| I litre (1 quart) strained Use 1
strained stock, stock, or milk or milk or water. Add butter and the heat and draw
off offthe heat after after 15 15 minutes. minutes. Leave Leave it it for for a a
moment, moment, but but serve serve very very hot, hot, with with meat meat or or
vegetables. Armenian couscous. couscous. couscous couscous ARMÉNIEN ,tRMfl.uEN
Prepared like like - Prepared the Arab couscous, couscous, with crushed crushed
grain, chick-peas, chick-peas, slices slices of of carrots and new turnips, pieces
ofwhite cabbage, cabbage, and and hashed hashed mutton, ail mutton, all browned
browned in in oil. oil. Hot Hot pimento pimento sauce sauce is is served served
separately. separately. Moroccan couscous. Moroccrn couscous. couscous couscous
MAROCAIN MARocATN g. Sieve 500 500 g. - Sieve (18 oz.) finely ground (18 ground
hard oz.) finely hard wheat wheat into into a a deep deep dish. dish. Add Add
water, drop by water, by drop, drop, working it it with with the the hands hands
until until it it is is reduced to a fine consistency; without this reduced this
working working a a lumpy lumpy mass will result. Put the the grain in a a strainer
strainer and and steam it over steam it over pan of hot hot water for a bain-marie
or pan put the a for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Put the couscous in a a pan pan and
and separate couscous separate the the grains with with the the hands, hands,
lukewarm water. Cook for another adding lukewarm another JO 10 minutes, minutes,
then then in butter separate it out again. Mix separate Mix in butter and and salt.
salt. Raisins Raisins can can be be added, if liked. added, if liked. Pinet's
recipe recipe for which always R. Pinet's for tagine, tagine,which always
accompanies accompanies the the couscous, is is as as follows follows:: couscous.
'For 12 12 people: people: 2 2 large 'For quartered chickens, large quartered
chickens, a a neck neck of of mutton cut cut for for saut6ing. sautéing. Brown
Brown the the meat meat in mutton in chicken chicken fat fat with with 4 large
carrots and 4 diced onions. Sprinkle with a tablespoon 4large carrots and 4 diced
onions. Sprinkle with a tablespoon mutton red pepper, and and moisten moisten
generously generously with ground red with mutton and chicken chicken stock. stock.
Add Add crushed crushed tomatoes, tomatoes, a garni, and a bouquet bouquet garni,
celery, and and a a sachet sachet containing containing peppercorns, peppercorns,
cloves, cloyes, saffron, celery, saffron, cinnamon and and cumin. cumin. cinnamon
of quartered quartered artichokes, artichokes, garbanzos, garbanzos, Add equal
equal quantities quantities of Add turnips, beans, beans, marrow marrow and and
diced diced courgettes. courgettes. (chick-peas), turnips, Cook for for I 1 hour.
hour. The The ragottt ragoût should shoilld be be immersed immersed in in the the
Cook in earthenware earthenware pots, pots, without without removing removing the
the stock and and served served in stock fat.' fat.' AU MouroN MOUTON Mutton
couscous couscous 'chtitra'. couscous Mutton 'chtitra'. COUSCOUS AU
280 280
Chicory (Belgian endive) à la meunière (Phol. Nicolas) Chicory (Belgian endive) h
la meunibre (Phot. Nicolasl

'cHTITRA''CHTITRA' - For persons,prepare For 66or8 prepareand g. or 8 persons,

andsteam steam500 500g.
(generous1I lb.) (generous lb.)couscous. couscous. Put potaaleg Put into into
afrpot legof pieces; 33chopped muttoncut ofmutton into pi<~ces; cutinto chopped cl
oves of garlic; 33small~chopped cloves peppers;22soupspoons of,gatlic;
srnall"chopped red redpepperS; soupspoons sweet pepper powder; powder; 1Iteaspoon
sweet red red pepper teaspoon each pepper, eachof oil,salt, ofoil, salt,pepper,
parsley parsleyand and chopped choppedchervil. chervil. i pints, Moisten (lf
Moisten with pints,generous generous quart) quart)water. with 1I litre litre (1
water. Simmer for 33 hours Simmer for hoursor more.When Whencooked or more. cooked
and andready ready to to serve, (aoz., g. (4 serve, add add100 100 g. oz.,-1I cup)
cup) butter some of liquor tosorne butterto ofthe theliquor from pourover from the
meat,and the meat, and pour overthe thecouscous. couscous. Arrange Arrangethe place
the thecouscous couscous on largedish, onaalarge dish,place themeats meats on on
top, top,and and serve servewith with the therest rest of of the thesauce. sauce.

COUSINETTE (Beamdse cookery) COUSINETTE (Béarnaise cookery) -- Soup Soup made made
with with spinach, tu ce, and spinach, sorrel, sorrel, let lettuce, and other green
herbs. finelychopped other finely chopped green herbs. COYER. COVER. COUVERT
couvERT - - Word Word used used in in various various ways. ways. It It is is
applied applied to to the the implements implements set set out outon onaatable
tablewhich which has has been (toclear laid. The The expression been laid.
expression lever leveror or enlever enleverle lecouvert couvert (to clear the
table) means means clearing the table) mealis clearing the the table tableonce
oncethe the meal isover. The over. The word word also also applies applies to
number of guests present present at to the the number ataameal: of guests meal: un
20, or (adinner 100 couverts diner de de 20, 20, de de 100 couverts (a un diner
people). dinner of 100people). of20, or100 More (table-setting) means More often
often the the word word couvert couvertde de table table(table-setting) means the
the three three implements implements used used by by the thediner: diner: the the
knife, knife, the fork the fork and and the the spoon. spoon. Although Although
together together they they form form aalogical logical collection, collection, the
the knife knife for for cutting, piercing solid cutting the fork for for piercing
the fork solid food food and and the thespoon for spoon for liquids, liquids,
several several centuries centuries separate separate their their discovery.
discovery. The The oldest oldest is is the knife. Man's the knife. Man's first
first need, need, even primitive in primitive even in times, times, was was to make
a to make a tool tool to to cut cut up meat obtained up the the meat obtained by by
hunting. hunting. As As the the use use of of bronze bronze and and iron iron was
wasstill still unknown, unknown, he used flint and obsidian, a volcanic substance.
Fragments he used flint and obsidian, a volcanic substance. Fragments of of
obsidian obsidian have advantage ofbeing have the the advantage ofbeing both both
hard hard and and sharp. sharp. Fitted Fitted between between two two bands bands
of of wood wood or or bone, bone, bound with bound with plaited plaited fibres,
piece of fibres, a a piece of obsidian obsidian made made one one of of the the
first first knives. knives. Placed Placed at at the the end end of an arrow of an
arrow or or spear, spear, it it became became aa weapon. weapon. Later, Later,
bronze, iron and and steel bronze, iron steel replaced replaced obsidian obsidian
for for knives. knives. According According to Ammien Marcellin, to Ammien
Marcellin, bronze bronze knives, knives, made piece, were made in in one one piece,
were used used by by the the Gauls, Gauls, who who used used them them to to divide
divide the largest pieces pieces of the largest of meat. meat. From From the the
tenth tenth century, century, the the town town of Beauvais had of Beauvais had the
the monopoly monopoly for for their their manumanufacture. facture. The The fork,
fork, which which originally prongs, was originally had had only only two two
prongs, was invented invented later later than than the knife. the knife. The
probably contemporary The spoon was probably spoon was contemporary with with the
the knife, knife, as as it it would would have have been for liquids. been
essential essential for liquids. At At first first it it was was a a simple en
handle. simple shell with a a wood wooden shell with handle. Metal Metal spoons
spoons were were made made at least as as early at least early as as metal metal
knives. knives. Many Many bronze spoons survive bronze spoons survive from from
excavations excavations and and can can he be seen seen in in museums. museums.
They They are are of of different different shapes shapes and and sizes, sizes,
sorne some rounded, rounded, others others elongated, elongated, similar similar to
to the the spoons spoons used today. Among used today. Among these these objects in
objects in museums museulns there there are only one one or are only or two two
early forks, which early forks, which do not do not seem to have been used for
eating. In the fourteenth century, seem to have been used for eating. In the
fourteenth century, even even amongst amongst the palaces, there the splendid
splendid silverware silverware in in palaces, there were were far far more more
spoons spoons than forks. Piers than forks. Piers Gaveston, Gaveston, the the
favourite favourite of of Edward Edward II, II, owned owned sixty-nine sixty-nine
silver silver spoons spoons and and three forks. three forks. These, according to
the inventory, were designed for eating These, according to the inventory, were
designed for eating pears. Clemence of Hungary (1328) left thirty spoons pears.
Queen Queen Clemene of Hungary (1328) left thirty spoons and a single fork at and a
single fork at her her death. death. M.le M. le comte comte de Laborde writes, de
Laborde writes, 'From 'From the the thirteenth thirteenth century century forks
forks existed existed for for exceptional exceptional Under the dishes, dishes, but
but were were not not in in common common use.' use.'Under influence of the
influence of a M. de a famous famous beau, beau,M. de Montausier, Montausier, the
generally the fork fork became became generally used used during during the the
seventeenth seventeenth century. century. Not (place setting) Not only only has has
the the couvert couvert (place setting) made made up up of of these these three
pieces become three pieces become widely widely used used today, today, but many
implements, implements, but many fill particular needs have been developed. There
designed to designed to fill particular needs have been developed. There are
dessert, fruit, fish, or are settings settings for for luncheon, luncheon, sweets,
sweets, cakes, cakes, dessert, fruit, fish, or crayfish. jam, coffee, crayfish.
There There are are spoons porridge, jam, spoons for for absinth, absinth,
porridge, coffee, ices, infusions, syrup, soda, tea, or for infusions, liqueurs,
ices, liqueurs, mocha, mocha, eggs, eggs, syrup, soda, tea, or for
CRACKNEL CRACKNEL
glasses of water. There are are special forks forks for winkles, snails, oysters,
vegetables, vegetables, fish fish and melons. oysters, These three three basic
implements which which make up up the the couvert

are are augmented augmented by by special special implements implements for for
eating eating lobster,
asparagus, snails snails etc. artichokes, asparagus, v ACHE - The cow is the female
female of the bovine species COW. vAcHE and is generally bred for milk or for
reproduction. reproduction. The meat of barren cows, or heifers, is more sought
after than that of bullocks. bullocks. The flesh of old cows, worn out by bearing
calves and by lactation, is tough and of of inferior quality. Developments in milk
production have meant that the herd is renewed more. discarded earlier. When they
reach often, and milking cows discarded the butcher butcher their their meat is
often of of good good quality, qua lit y, since since breeders fatten them
beforehand so that they are in the best possible possible condition.

Dressed Dressed crab

COW-PARSNIP. BERCE BERCE - Weed of of the family Umbelliferae, COW-PARSNIP.

Umbellderae, common in in marshy marshy places, places, in in meadows meadows and
and hedges. hedges. In common asparagus. In LithuLithuSiberia its young shoots are
eaten like asparagus. potent ania and Poland its leaves and seeds are made into a
potent
beer.
CRABE - Shellfish Shellfish of the the order Decapoda. Many cRABE order Decapoda.
species are edible. ed ible. species (Créole cookery). cRABEs CRABES Er ET Crabs
and shellfish in broth (Cr6ole CRUSTACÉS EN EN BoUILLoN BOUILLON - Soften chopped
onion, tomato, tomato, cRUSTACES

vinegar, and and is is put put back back in in the the shell. preparation is
vinegar, The preparation shell. The a knife and and decorated with egg yolks yolks
and smoothed with a chopped parsley. The is served with a a Mayonnaise chopped
parsley. The crab crab is served with sauce (see SAUCE). AU GRATIN a large crab in
Crab au gratin. CRABE cRABE AU GRATIN - Cook a court-bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.). Let
Let it it cool. When cold, court-bouillo,n cool. When cold, remove the legs. Using
the point of a knife, make an incision incision claws and legs. of a

CRAB. CRAB.

pounded ginger, thyme, 2 cloves cloyes garlic, and the parts of the parts. crab not
usually eaten in some fat. Set aside the edible parts. Moisten the ingredients in
the pan with broth and simmer gently for for 2 2 hours. hours. Sieve, Sieve,
pressing pressing to obtain obtain a thick thick sauce. sauce. Put some some fat
fat and and a a teaspoon each each of saffron saffron and and chopped chopped
pimento pimento in a casserole. Lightly Lightly brown the pieces of crab or
shellfish and pour pour the sauce sauce over them. Cook Cook for -some ~ome other
shellfish minutes and serve hot hot with Rice it à la creole créole (see RICE).
CRABE FRoID FROID - Cook a crab in court-bouillon, court-bouillon, Cold crab. cRABE
suitablc for all shellfish, made from water, thyme, salt and a suitable Garnish
with fresh parsley. Serve Serve leaf. Leave Leave to cool. Garnish bay leaf. with
with Mayonnaise sauce, sauce, Tartare Tartare sauce, sauce, Gribiche sauce oi or
sauce (see SAUCE). Green sauce In In England, cold crab is sold sold already
prepared (dressed (dressed crab). The meat, mashed with two forks, is seasoned with
a a sauce made fron from the crab's liver, English mustard, oil and

-
underneath the crab's shell so as to detach the upper part. Remove the meat from
claws, legs and shell. shell. Cut the meat Remove mash with with two two forks.
forks. Clean the the hollow into large dice, or mash and coyer few tableshell with
hot water and cover the bottom with a few spoons Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE) to which the crab's liver spoons and the creamy parts, parts, finely
finely pounded, are are added. Replace and added. Replace coyer with more sauce.
grated the meat and cover sauce. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Pour on some some
melted melted butter butter and brown brown in a a moderate cheese. oyen. oven.

(SmaU and large). cASSf CASSÉ (pErrr, (PETIT, GROS) CRACK (Small cRos) cooking
sugar sugar (see SUGAR). cooking SUGAR).

Degrees in

CRACKNEL (Biscuit). (Biscuit). cRAeUELIN CRAQUELIN - Knead Knead 250 g. (9 oz.,

CRACKNEL e. (9 2;1- cups) cups) sifted sifted flour flour with with 150 150 g. g.
(5 (5 oz., oz., l0 10 tablespoons) 2f yolks, 8 tablespoons (l (} cup) cup) cold 25
g. cold milk, 25 butter, 2 egg yolks,

(l (1

oz., 2 tablespoons) sugar and a pinch of of salt. o2.,2 rest for 2 hours. Roll it
out 1(t Leave the pastry to rest I cm. (f thick, and cut cut into 5-cm. (2-inch)
squares. Arrange Arrange on a a inch) thick, a very hot oven. oyen. baking sheet.
Brush with egg and cook in a Sprinkle with vanilla-flavoured sugar. Sprinkle

How to prepare prepare crab How

1. To To twist twist off off the the legs legs and and claws, claws, wipe wipe crab
crab with with damp damp cloth. clotho Place Place on on back back 1. with tail
tail flap flap facing. facing. Remove Remov~ claws daws and and legs leg~ by by
twisting twisting inwards inwards and and towards towards with you

2. To separate body body from from shell, place thumbs thumbs under tail flap and
and push pusb 2. upwards until until the the body body breaks breaks away from the
the shell sbelJ upwards

281 281

Desserts: timbale Elysle Elysée (Lasserre. (Lasserre. Pfutt. Phal. N Nicolas)

icolas'l Desserts : timbule
(continued) prepare crab How to crab (continued) to prepare How

3. To To remove mou place shell mouth you. and slOmach stomach bag, bag, place
shell with with mouth mouth facing facing you. 3. th and thumbs down down and and
forward forward on mouth until on mouth until this, this, and and stomach stomach
bag bag Press thumbs attached. breaks breaks away awav with with a a click click
attached,

4. To To remove 4. remove the the stomach, stomach, take hold of and stomach take
hold of the the mouth mouth and stomach bag bag and and carefully remove carefully
remove them; piece. Discard them; they in one come away Discard them they should
should come away in one piece. them

5.

around inside shell with with handle handle of ofa To removemeat, remove meat, ease
around a spoon, spoon, loosening meat into a basin, basin, leaving the soft brown
brown meat. meal. Turn all ail the meat shell clean the shell

6. 'false [ine' To trim shell, 6. To shell, lap press tap'false line' around around
shell with knife shell cavity cavity with knife handle, handle, press with thumbs
until shell wall with until edges edges of wall break ofshell break away neatly.
Scrub dry the the away neatly. Scrub and and dry shell shell and and oillightly oil
liehtlv

7. Taking Taking body body of of crab, crab, discard 'dead men's men's fingers'.
Remove brown brown meat, 7. adding to to basin. basin. Scoop Scoop white white meat
meat from from leg leg sockets, sockets, keeping keeping free free from from bone;
bone; adding put put in in second second basin basin

to remove rem ove meat. meal. With With back heavy knife knife lap 8. Twist first
joint off daws claws to back of of heavy tap sharply round centre of claw's
broadest broadest part until the shell ofclaw's apart; until the shell cracks
cracks apart; empty both into into white white meat meat basin basin empty both

282
CRAYFISH
pfltisserie) CRAMIQUE CRAMIQUE (Belgian pâtisserie) - Brioche bread which has

currants in it.

CRANBERRY or or MOSSBERRY MOSSBERRY of a a small CRANBERRY Fruit of - Fruit shrubby

plant which which grows in regions of in the edible shrubby the boggy boggy regions
North America and and Europe. Europe. Cranberries look North America look like like
sm ail small cherries and and their colour varies from a a clear pink to a a deep
cherries red. They They have an acid, acid, slightly bitter have an and are are
unred. flavour and bitter flavour eaten raw. raw. They They may be made into into a
a compote or be made pleasant eaten jelly, which has a delicate taste. is
tradijelly, which tas te. Cranberry jelly is has a Cranberry jelly tionally used
with game and fowl, such as duck and goose. jelly. Coyer is Dr Dr Leclerc's recipe
for for cranberry cranberry jelly. Cover the Here is with water and cook cook for
for 15 15 minutes, until they are berries with (12 oz., g. (12 Add 350 for each
soft. Add 350 g. oz., l| cups) sugar sugar for each 500 500 g. soft. It cups)
(generous 1 I lb.) fruit fruit and and cook cook again until a a thick syrup is
(generous made. This forms a jelly jelly when cool. CRAI\E. GRUE cRUE seldom used
for food food nowadays. nowadays. CRANE. Wader, seldom used for - Wader, which they
fattened specially The Romans prized this bird, which to a ri richer tn give it a
cher flavour. flavour. In the Middle Ages, the crane was game birds eaten among the
game eaten in the best society. It can only be among and is cooked in the same way
as as bustard eaten very young and (see BUST BUSTARD). ARD).
(,4. LA). CRAPAUDINE (À CRAPAUDINE Preparation of fowl, particularly - Preparation
of pigeon (q.v.). authors say name cornes comes from from the word Some authors
that this this name Sorne say that given to the dish because the birds, crapaud
(toad) and was given and was crapaud

flukes to which is a small black If this flukes to which is attached a this is is

not black sac. sac. If flavour. Approximately one discarded it spoils the delicate
flavour. fifth of the gross weight of a crayfish is is edible.

Female and male male crayfish Female

trussed in this way, resemble toads. toads.

which is A cake cake which so called because, CRAQUELIN is so because, being -A

very dry, it crunches between the teeth. It is made in different different
sometimes in in the same way as as Reims Reims biscuits, someways; sometimes (pdte
à times with a a dough (pâte d echaudés). echaudis).

pear with aromatic flesh. CRASSAI\E with aromatic CRASSANE variety of pear Juicy
variety - Juicy (See PEAR.) CRA YFISH (Freshwater). ÉCREVISSE CRAITISH @reshwater).
fcnnvlssr

There are are three - There principal red-clawed crayfish varieties of crayfsh
(underof crayfish: the red-c/awed principal varieties part largest of the of the
red) which which is is the part of the claws the largest the French claws red)
varieties and has white-clawed crayfish crayfish delicate flesh: flesh; the
varieties and the white-c/awed has delicate (21to smaller which is smaller to 3
oz.); and - not more than 65 to 75 g. (2t the slender-c/awed slender-clawed
crayfish crayfish which which is is imported imported from the from central and is
is of mediocre quality. Europe and Whichever Whichever method of cooking is chosen
for crayfish, it is first of aU all to remove the media lamina of the tail
necessary first

(courn) D'ÉCREVISSES o'fcnevrssEs coulis. Brser.rn Crayfish bisque or coulis.

BISQUE (COULIS) Thick soup made with crayfish cooked à d la mirepoix. While While
pounding the in a a mortar, add add sorne some cooke9 cooke$ rice. pounding the
crayfish in Purte of of crayfish crayfish soup.) (See SOUPS AND BROTHS, Purée
Crayfish à la bordelaise. bordelaise. ÉCREVISSES EcnevlssEs À A LA LA BORDELAlSE
BoRDELATSE Crayfish i la Toss the the crayfish crayfish in a fine fine mirepoix
mirepoix of vegetables. vegetables. Toss Make a butter separately. separately.
Season with salt, pepper and spices. spices. Moisten with crayfish and set alight.
Moisten Pour brandy over the crayfish white wine. wine. Add and cook for 20 cook
together Add the the mirepoix mirepoix and together for white put them Drain the in
a a deep and put deep dish. minutes. Drain the crayfish and them in cooking stock
stock with 3 or 4 egg yolks. Add a generous Bind the cooking piece of butter. well.
Mask Mask the with this piece of butter. Season weIl. the crayfish with piping hot.
sauce and serve at once, piping Bush of crayfish. BUIssoN o'6cREvISSns Bush BUiSSON
D'ÉCREVISSES is a - A buisson is in court-bouillon as bush or clump. clump. Cook
Cook the crayfish in small bush for Crayfish Crayfish à d la nage (see below).
Leave them to cool.

Ingredients for Ingredients crayfish à d la bordelaise

283
CRAYFISH
(hot). MoussELINEs la Nantua mousselines i Crayfish mousselines Crayfish à la
Nantua (hot). MOUSSELINES cream forcemeat (see Use Fine Fine cream - Use with
fillet or whiting mixed FORCEMEAT) made made with fillet of pike pike or a pur6e
forcemeat is is ready. ready, with a purée of crayfish tails. When the forcemeat
Fill small buttered moulds with add add chopped crayfish tails. tails. Fill this
mixture. Stand in a dish of water and poach poach in the oven. Turn out the
mousselines mousselines on a dish, each one set on a round Tum ifpreferred, placed
straight on the ofbread ofbread fried in butter, butter, or, ifpreferred, (s9e
SAUCE). Decorate the sauce (see dish. Cover with Nantua sauce top of each
mousseline with a thick piece of truffie. can be served with various garnishes
Crayfish mousseline can with these garchosen to to blend with and covered covered
with with a a sauce chosen and V i c t or i a,'etc. nishes c ar dinal, Victoria, c
anc alaise, normande, no rmande, cardinal, 'etc. nishes:: cancalaise, braised fish.
Mousselines are also also used to garnish large braised Mousselines are used to can
be serve<! served in They can in tartlets baked baked blind (empty), or with
mixture can be in butter. The same same mixture artichoke hearts cooked in
artichoke poached in are poached hot mousses which are to make make large used
large hot mousses which used to in water. charlotte moulds standing in.water.
charlotte FRoIDEs D'ÉCREo'6cnEMoUssELINES FROIDES Crayfish mousselines (cold).
MOUSSELINES a mousse mixture prepared vrssEs VISSES prepared as - These are made
with a Nantua (hot). Line Line mousselines à d la Nantua in the recipe recipe for
for Crayfish mousselines in jelly, and decorate with crayfish tails and and
decorate small moulds with jelly, mixture and chili chill on truffies. Fill the
moulds mou Ids with the mousse mixture ice. Remove the fcnrvlsses À rn Necr i la la
nage. nage. ÉCREVISSES A LA Crayfish à NAGE - Remove the centre centre of the the
tails tails of 48 48 crayfish. intestinal matter matter from the intestinal into a
a court-bouillon Wash and plunge immediately into them and Wash them plunge
immediately prepared as follows: put them in and put in a into thin thin rounds,
and 3 small carrots into Slice Slice 3 (4 oz., g. (4 chopped finely chopped 100 g.
oz., 1 I cup) cup) small small finely with 100 saucepan saucepan with garlic, a
clove of garlic, a smalt small crushed crushed clove 4 sliced sliced shallots, a
onions, 4 of parsley heads. half a bay leaf, and a handful ofparsley of thyme,
halfa sprig ofthyme, (f, pint, scant 2 cups) white wine dl. wine and 2 dl. Moisten
with 4 dl. ct ({ pint, scant cup) water. Season with salt and freshly ground (t
pepper. Cook for for 15 l5 minutes. pepper. for 10 l0 minutes, in this this court-
bouillon for crayfish in Cook Cook the the crayfish pepper and to time. time.
Season Season with cayenne pepper tossing tossing from time to the cooking stock.
leave to cool in the pufrs. FRIANDS as for Proceed as nRnNDS AUX Atrx ÉCREVISSES
Ecnsvtssss -- Proceed Crayfish puffs. (see below) using flaky pastry pastry cut
into triangles. Crayfish Crayfish rolls (see rolls. CHAUSSONS Ar-rx ÉCREVISSES
Ecnrvtssrs -- Cut Cut small small cnnussoNs AUX Crayfish Crayfish rolls. (see DOUG
Flaky pastry (see DOUGH). rolled-out layer of Flaky rounds from a rolled-out H).
ragofrt à Nantua a heaped tablespoon of Crayfish Crayfish tail ragoût d la la
Nantua Put a round when up and and seal Roll up in the the centre of each each
round when cold. cold. Roll seal the the in with egg egg and Bake in in a a edges.
Brush the the tops tops with and lightly score. score. Bake edges. oven. Serve hot.
slow oven. rolls des Dames de de Bous. DE QUEUES des Dames Bous. CHAUSSON cHAUssoN
DE Crayfish roUs eUEUES 'Cook 100 DE BOUS Bous -- 'Cook 100 crayfish o'Ecnrvtssrs
DES DEs DAMES DAMEs DE crayfish à i la /a D'ÉCREVISSES highly.'Accordmirepoix with
white wine, seasoning rather highly.' Accordrecipes of ing to Mme. de de Loiseau,
Loiseau, residuary legatee of the the recipes of to Mme. ing 'all a mixture mixture
of of 'ail de Marron, this this seasoning seasoning should should be a Mme. de the
main types of pepper'. 'With the the crayfish, make a a Ragoût Ragoftt à d la la
the shelled tails of the crayfish, make 'With (see below), finishing it in the for
Nantua (see it as as indicated in the recipe for Nantua Leave to At the sa carp
this ragoût. ragoitt. Leave to cool. At same soft carp me time, poach soft this
roes in leave to cool. in white wine and and also leave to cool. roes (see DOUGH)
DOUGH) and a round layer layer of Flaky Flaky pastry (see and out a 'Roll out with
the on a a baking sheet. sheet. Spread Spread it it on on one one side side only
only with place on ragoit and with the roes enriched with thick thick slices slices
of of and with the soft soft roes enriched with ragoût and spices, and sprinkled
sprinkled trufles seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper and spices, and
truffies liqueur brandy. with liqueur edges. Score light a scroll, carefully
sealing the edges. Score Iight 'Roll into a scroll, carefully sealing the in a egg,
and and bake in a hot hot diagonal lines on scroll, brush with with egg, on the
scroll, diagonallines oven. oven. (see 'When it pour a it is is ready, ready, pour
a little little hot hot Crayfish Crayfish buller butter (see 'When BUTTER, Compound
Compound bullers) butters) into into the the scroll scroll through through the
BUTTER, opening.' opening.' nrssorEs AUX as Fried crayfish crayfish roUs. rolls.
RISSOLES AUX ÉCREVISSES Ecnrvlssss -- Proceed as Fried
n'EcREvIssns A D'ÉCREVISSES À L,c LA N,ANrun NANTUA -

Special Special dish for arranging crayfish arranging

a special dish, fixing them by their tails Arrange them on a Arrange

with bunches of fresh Garnish with the dish. dish. Garnish bunches of to the the
points on on the to
parsley. parsley. AUX ÉCREVISSES fcREvISsEs Crayfish crofites. croûtes. cRoOrES
CROÛTES AUX
-

(see below), as for fish tail lail ragofit ragoût à Nantua (see below), proceed
proceed as la Nantun d la fish

Using CrayUsing

MUSHROOM). Mushroom croûte crofite (see MUSHROOM). FLAN AUX ÉCREVISSES EcRpvnsrs
GRATINÉ cnermE Crayfish flan with cheese. FLAN (baked pie shell) with Crayfish Fil!
flan crust baked baked blind (baked Fill a flan (see below). with grated tai!
Nantua (see below). Sprinkle Sprinkle with tail ragoût ragofrt à d la la Nantua
cheese. Pour on melted butter butter and brown in the oven. pouR GARNITURE Crayfish
as a garnish. EcRsvtssEs ÉCREVISSES POUR GARNITURE - Wash and gut the crayfish.
Truss them (fasten the claws to the tail) in a to the recipe. recipe. Put them in
or leave as they are, as they are, according to boiling court-bouillon of water,
salt, thyme and bay leaf. Boil until cooked. Use them hot or cold. u6cEoIsE
Crayfish à À u LA LIÉGEOISE la liégeoise. li6geoise. ÉCREVISSES EcnEvlssrs A i la -
Cook (see for Crayfish à a court-bouillon as as for d la nage (see the crayfish in
a in a dish. Strain Drain and a deep dish. Strain the and arrange them in below).
Drain cooking cooking stock and boil down to a a quarter of its volume. Mix (6
tablespoons, g. (4 oz., I dl. (6 in ! cup) butter for 1 in 100 g. oz.,1
tablespoons, seant scant 1 t cup) stock. Whisk thoroughly. thoroughly. Pour this
sauce over the crayfish. parsley. fish. Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. la
marinière. mariniire. ÉCREVISSES icnEvrssm À L.c, MARINIÈRE ruA,RrNrilRE Crayfish
Crayfish à i la A LA crayfish in butter over a very hot flame. When When they Sauté
Saut6 the crayfish they pepper, powdered salt, and are browned, season with salt,
thyme and and moisten with with enough enough dry dry white wine wine to cover bay
leaf, leaf, and bay them. and boil for 12 12 minutes. Remove Remove the Cover the
the saucepan and boii for Boil down and add crayfish. crayfish. Boil down the the
stock stock and add sorne some meatless Remove from the heat and mix in 2 or 3
tablespoons velouté. velouti. Remove tablespoons and sprinkle Pour this this sauce
butter. Pour butter. sauce over the the crayfish and sprinkle with chopped chopped
parsley. (cold). MOUSSE Crayfish mousse mousse à I'ancienne (cold). MoussE FROIDE
FRoIDE Crayfish i l'ancienne D'ÉCREVISSES o'EcnEvIssEs À L'lNcmNNe medium-sized
crayfish A L'ANCIENNE - Cook 36 medium-sized li shell the tails. Pound the shells d
la mirepoix. Drain them and shell (2 oz., g. (2 in with the mirepoix, adding adding
50 50 g. oz., } in a a mortar with the mirepoix, { cup) (+ pint, } velouti and I
dl. butter, cold meatless meatless velouté and 1 dl. dl. <t butter, It J cup) cold
U dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant -!. melted aspic jelly. i cup) melted a
saucepan. Rub this mixture a sieve and put it in a mixture through a (fr pint,
scant 2 Add 2 cups) fresh partly whipped cream, dl. G Add 4 dl. and and diced. and
the crayfish tails, shelled and fill the mou mould Id Line a a charlotte mould with
white paper and fill ice, or a refrigerator, refrigerator, in a with the on ice, or
in chill on mixture. Leave Leave to to chili the mixture. until just before before
serving. Tum dish. Decorate with slices slices Turn the mousse onto a a serving
dish. jelly. Surround of with chopped chopped in half-set half-set jelly. Surround
with dipped in of truffie dipped aspic jelly. (cold). MOUSSE Crayfish 'ÉCREVISSES
o'EcREvIssrs mousse (cold). MoussE FROIDE FRoIDE 0 Crayfish mousse Make the and
arrange arrange in in a as in in the the previous recipe and a the mousse as jelly
charlotte mould lined with aspic jelly and decorated inside and decorated charlotte
mould lined with aspic with shelled shelled crayfish tails and strips strips of
truffies. Crayfish completely covered covered can also also be be served served
completely Crayfish mousse can jelly. with aspic jel!y.
284 284
CREAM CREAM HORNS for for Crayfish rolls. Make the the rolls rolls as as shown in
in the the recipe. recipe. Deep-fry them of baking baking them them in the the
oven. When Ihem instead instead of they they are a good good colour, drain them
them and and season season with table salt. Garn ish with wi th fried fried
parsley. parsley. sa II. Garnish Crayfish GRATIN DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'6cnrvrssns
D'ÉCREVISSES Crayfisb tails tails au gratin. cRATTN Prepare Prepare the the
crayfish crayfish tails tails as as for for Crayfish Crayfish tail !ail ragofit
ragoLÎt d à la Nantua Nanl/la (see (see below). below). Put the the ragoitt ragoûl
in a buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish. dish. Sprinkle with with grated
grated cheese, cheese, preferably preferably Parmesan. Parmesan. Pour Pour on
melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown slowly slowly in in the oven. oven.
Crayfish à la fagm façon de de maitre maHre La Planche. Planche. Craytish tails
tails au gratin gratin I cRArrN GRATrN DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'EcnBvnsrs D'ÉCREVISSES
A Am LA regon fAÇON on DE M.cfrRE MAîTRE r.A LA rLANcHE PLANCHE - 'Using crayfish
cooked d à la mirepox, mirepoix, prepare prepare a ragotrt mgolÎl of of crayfish
crayfish tails tails thickened thickened with with highly highly seasoned seasoned
crayfish crayfish pur6e. puree. 'Put ragoûl in in a a buttered buttered ovenware
ovenware dish dish with with layers layers of 'Put this Ihis ragoitt fresh fresh
truffies truffles cut eut into into thick thick slices, seasoned seasoned and
tossed tossed in hot hot butter. in a a butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with finely
finely grated grated cheese. cheese. Brown Brown in moderate in wann warm water
water to to prevent prevenl moderate oven, oven, standing standing the the dish
dish in the the sauce sauce from from curdling.' curdling.' Crayfish taU ragott
ragoût i à la la Nantua. Nantua. euEUEs QUEUES o'fcRevrssEs D'ÉCREVISSES A À ra LA
Crayfish tail NANTUA cup'l mireporx NANTUA - Make Make l+ 1t dl. dl. (+ (~ pint,
pint, J t cup) mirepoix by by cooking cooking a a mixture of finely fineiy diced
diced carrots, onions, onions, and celery, celery, with with mixture of powdered
powdered thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf, leaf, in in butter butter until until
tender. tender. Toss Toss 48 48 crayfish crayfish tails lails in in this lhis
mixture. mixture. Season with with salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten 2 dl. ($ (5
pint, pinl, scant seant cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Cover Cover the the
Moisten with with 2 saucepan and cook cook for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. saucepan
and Drain Drain the the crayfish. crayfish. Shell Shell the the tails. tails. Pound
Pound the the shells shells and and the the mirepoix mirepoi>.: in in a a mortar
mortar and and add add bichamel béchamel sauce sauce to to this this pur6e purée as
as shown shown in in the the recipe recipc for Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put the the crayfish tails tails in in a small pan pan with
with a a tablespoon tablespoon butter. 1 tablespoon lablespoon butter. Heat Heat
without wÎthout browning. browning. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 1 flour Aour and
and mix mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Moisten Moisten with wÎth 2 tablespoons
télblespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) brandy brandy and I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) cup) thick thick cream. cream. Mix.
Mix. l,eave Leave to to simmer simmer on on low low heat heat for for 8 8 minutes.
minutes. Add Add the the Nantua Nantua sauce, sauce, prepared prepared separately.
separately. Remove Remove from from the the heat heat and add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2
oz., oz., { ! cup) cup) butter. butter. and add According ragoÎlI is is to to be be
used, used, the the whole whole or or According to to how how this this ragoitt
only only part part of of the the Nantua Nant ua sauce sa uce made made with with
the t he pounded pou nded shells shells is it is a vol-auis added added to to it.
il. If lfit is to to be he used used as as the the only ooly filling filling of ofa
vol-auvent ven/ or or pie, pie, and and if if the the tails tails of of the the
crayfish crayfish are are small, smalt, more more tails tails will intended as will
be be needed. needed. If lfintended as a a garnish, garnish, it it can C,ln be be
served served with wlth other other garnishes garnishes such such as as mushrooms,
mushrooms, truffies, tfllffies, oysters, oysters, etc. elc. Crayfish tails in in
shells. sheUs. coeurI.t.Es COQUILLES DE DE euErrEs QUEUES o'EcnEvrssEs D'ÉCREVISSES
Crayfish tails Line Line silver, silver, fireproof fireproof china china or or
glass glass shells shells with with Mornay Momay sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE)
flavoured tlavoured with with Crayfish Crayfish butter bUller (see (see BUTTER,
BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUllers). Pipe Pipe a a narrow narrow border
border of of Duchess Duchesspotato pOlalo mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POTA
TOES) round round the the shell. shelJ. Arrange 8 shelled t08 shelled crayfish
crayfish tails tails on on the the sauce. sauce. Cover Cover with with Arrange 6
6to more Mornay sauce, sauce, and and sprinkle :;prinkle with with grated grated
cheese. cheese. Pour Pour more Mornay on on melted melted butter butter and and
brown brown quickly quickly in in the the oven. oven. Crayfish be prepared prepared
in in shells shells in in the the same same way, way, Crayfish tails tails can can
be using à la la normande, normande, it à Ia la using different different sauces
sauces and and garnishes, garnishes, d cardinal, with mushrooms, mushrooms, etc.
etc. cardinal, with Crayfish TIMBALE DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'fcRED'ÉCRECraytish
timbale timbale I à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. TTMBALE vlssrs VISSES A À L'eNcrENNE
L'ANCIENNE .. Prepare Prepare Crayfish Crayfish tail lail ragofit rogoûl d à la /a
Nantua. Nanll/Q. Line Line a a shallow shallow pie pie dish dish uiith with Fine
Fine lining linin!: paste pasle (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Line Line with with a a
thin thin layer layer of ofFine Fine pike pikeforcemeal (see forcemeat (see
FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Mix Mix coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies lruffles
tossed tossed in in butter, butter, and and left left to ta cool, cool, with with
the the ragofrt; ragolÎ/; fill fill the the pie pie with with this. this. Cover
ragoûl with with a a layer layer of of pike pike forcemeat, forcemeat, cover cover
Caver the the ragofit the and seal. seal. Decorate Decoratè with with flaky flaky
pastry pastry the pie pie with with pastry pastry and motifs. motifs. Make in the
the pastry pastry lid lid to to allow allow the the steam steam to 10 Make a a
small small hole hole in escape. escape. Brush Brush with with egg. egg. Bake Bake
in in a a slow slow oven oven for for 45 45 minutes minutes to to I1hour. hour.
When is ready, ready, pour pour into into it il a a few few tablespoons tabJespoons
of of When the the pie pie is thrn thin Nantua Nanlua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
285 285

Crayfish Crayfish timbale timbale à la la mode mode de de Chavillieu. ChaviUieu,

TIMBAT.E TIMBALE DE DE QUEUES o'fcnrvrssns D 'ÉeR EVISSES A À LA noop MODE DE DE
cHAvrLLrcu CHA VILLIEU - Cook euEUEs cralish crayfish d à la mirepoix mirepoix with
with white white wine. Drain Drain them, shell shelJ the tails pan with melted
melted butter. butter. Pound Pound the the tails and put put the the tails tails in
a pan shells in a mortar mortar and and divide divide the pur6e purée in in half.
half. With With one half half shells in make make Crayfish Crayfish butter bI/lier
(see BUTTER, BUTIER, Compound Compol/nd butters). blillers). Mix Mix the the rest
rest of of the the crayfish crayfish pur6e purée with with an equal quantity
quanlity of Bicharnel Bùhamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), diluted diluted
with with fresh fresh cream. cream. Rub Rub this this pur6e purée through through a
sieve sieve with with a a spatula.

rl

Heat in the the butter, butter, without browning. browning. Heat the the crayfish
tails rails in Pour Pour on some fresh fresh cream and blend blend in in the
crayfish pur6e. purée. Mix Mix over heat. heat. Moisten Moisten with with thick
thick fresh fresh cream. crearn. When When the the ragoitt ragoûl has has
thickened, thickened, mix mix in in some some of the the crayfish craytlsh butter.
butter. Season Season with with cayenne cayenne pepper pepper and and flavour
tlavour with wilh liqueur liqueur brandy. in a a double double saucepan. saucepan.
brandy. Keep hot hot in Prepare 24 forcemeat forcemeat balls balls with with
lavaret lavaret stuffing. stuffing. Prepare separately separately 24 (This is a a
cream cream stuffing stuffing made made with with filleted filleted fish, fish, egg
whites whites (This is and and thick thick fresh fresh cream.) cream.) Poach Poach
the the forcemeat forcerneat balls balls slowly slowly and and keep FiJI a a pie
pie crust of of fine fine pastry, pastry, baked baked blind blind keep them them
hot. hot. Fill (empty), with "vith alternate alternate layers layers of crayfish
crayfish tail ragofrt ragoLÎI and forcemeat forcemeat balls. balls. The The pie pie
must must be be hot hot when when filled. filled. Cover Cover with with Nantua
Nall/lla sauce sauce (made (made with with the the rest rest of of the the pur6e
purée and and the the craycrayfish fish butter), butter), and and decorate decorate
with with large large slices sliees of of trufle, t rllffle, seasoned seasoned with
with salt and and pepper, pepper, tossed tossed in in butter but ter and and
flavoured fla voured with with liqueur liqueur brandy. brandy. Serve Serve very
very hot. hot. Crayfish VOL-AU-VENT Arx AUX fcR-Evlssns ÉCREVISSES - Make Make
Crayfish vol-au-vent. vol-an-vent. voL-AU-vENT a a vol-au-venl vo/-al/-vent case
case (see (see VOL-AU-VENT). VOL-AU-VENT). Fill Fill with with Crayfish tail à la
la Nantua. Nantua. /ail ragottt ragoûl d Little Little crayfish crayfisb vol-au-
venf ,'ol-au-vent, barquettes barquettes or or tartlets tartlets - See See HORS-
D'(EUVRE. euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d' hors-d'œuvre.
- Cream Cream not not only only contains of fat, fat, used used for for butter,
butter, but but also also a a proporproporcontains globules globules of tion of
water, water, casein, casein, lactose lactose and and mineral minerai salts salts
(see (see MILK). M ILK). tion of There There is is a a difference difference
between between single single cream cream which which is is obtained obtained by by
skimming skimming milk milk that that has has been been left left to to settle
settle in in shallow shallow bowls, bowls, and and which which contains contains 10
10 to to 20 20 per per cent cent butter, butter, and is obtained obtained by by a a
separating separating machine maclùne and double double cream, cream, which which
is and 30 per per cent cent butter. butter. Possible Possible and which which must
must contain contain at at least least 30 adulterants adulterants are are starch,
starch, fecula fecula (potato (potato flour) flour) and and gelatine. gelatine.
These to detect detect as as they they give give the the cream cream a a mealy
mealy or or These are are easy easy to gluey gluey flavour. flavour. Since is
largely largely composed composed of of fatty fauy substances, substances, Since
cream cream is sufferers sufferers from from liver liver complaints cornplaints
should should not not eat eat it. il. Ilealthy Healthy people people should should
use use it it sparingly. sparingly.

CREAM (from (from milk). milk). cniMe CRÈME DU DU LAIr LAIT CREAM

CREAM CREAM CHEESES. CHEESES. FRoMAGEs FRO~AGES A À r.l, LA cnirran CRÈME - See See
CHEESE. CHEESE. CREAM CREAM HORNS HORNS A À T,^q. LA CHIBOUST. CHIBOlJST. coRNETs
CORNETS nnulLreT6s FEUILLETÉS
A Ingredients (for À r,l LA cntrr,m, CRÈME, olrs [)ITS A À LA LA cHrBousr CHIBOUST
-Ingredients (for 12 12 cornets). cornets).

500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz.) oz.) Puff Puff pastry pas/ry (see (see DOUGH), DOUGH),
150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., generous 1cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar. 5 5 egg
egg yolks,4 yolks, 4 egg egg whites, whites. 50 50 g. g. generous * (2 (2 oz.,*
oz., -1 cup) cup) flour, flour,! litre (scant (scant pint,2l pint, 2! cups) cups)
milk, milk,! vanilJa ] litre I vanilla pod or a a few few drops drops vanilla
vanilla essence essence and and a a pinch pioch salt. saIL pod or pastry (see M e
thod. Make Melhod. Make the the pastry pastry as as for for Puff PlJffpas/rY (see
DOUGH) DOUGH) and and roll roll it it out out 2 2 mm. mm. (t (~. inch) inch) thick.
thick. Cut CUI into into 12 12 strips, strips, 3 3 crr1. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) wide
wide and and 25 25 cm. (10 (10 inches) inches) long. long. Roll Roll these these
strips strips

round round cornet cornet moulds. moulds. Arrange weI baking baking sheet; sheet;
leave leave for for l0 10 Arrange the the cornets cornets on on a a wet minutes.
minutes. Brush Brush them them with with egg egg and and bake bake in in a a hot
hot oven oven for for 12 12 to to l5 15 minutes. minutes. When When nearly nearly
cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with with icing icing sugar, sugar, glazs, of the
oven oven as as soon soon as as they they glisten. glisten. glaze, and and take
take them them out out ofthe The The cream. cream. The The base base of of this
this preparation preparation is is the the CrCme Crème phtissiire pâtissière
(French (French pastry pastry cream). cream). Put Put the the sieved sieved flour,
flour, sugar sugar and in a a pan. pan. Add Add the the egg egg yolks yolks and and
whip whip until until the the and salt salt in mixture is smooth. smooth. mixture
is Moisten Moisten with with the the milk, milk, which which has has been been
boiled boiled with with t vanilla vanilla pod. pod. Mix Mix carefully carefully and
and cook cook on on a a good goocl heat, heat, beating beating

I
CREAMS
consistency. The cooking must be until undl the cream is the right eonsisteney.

rapid, not This makes the crème crime not more more than than 5 5 minutes. minutes.
This makes the
pdtissiire. "nl><~j'prp To obtain the crDme crème ChibouSI, Chiboust, add 4 stiffiy
beaten egg whites, while whîle the mixture is still hot. Fill the cornets with the
crcam cream when cold. Use a a forcingFiU cornet of ofgreaseproofpaper.
greasepl'oof paper. round nozzle, or a cornel bag with a round
cRijMEs The French French word word crème crdme applies CREAMS. CREMFS applies to
CREAMS. - The garnish wb! pped cream; butter and custard creams used used to mish
whipped to ga pastries and soups, soups. pastries and cakes; custard cream sauces;
and Almond cream. CRÈME 500 g. Almond cream. D'AMANDES - Ingredienls. 500 cRiME
D'AMANDES (18 oz., oz., 3~ 3| cups) al almonds, monds, 500 g. g. (18 oz., ps) fine
sugar. oz.,2l cu cups) sugar, (18 oz"' g. (18 500 g. oz.,2t ClipS) cups) butter,
bUller, 8 eggs. Melhod. Pound Pound the the peeled almonds almonds with wilh the
the sugar, Method. When the moistening almonds have Iwo of the eggs. When the
almands moislenîng with witb two formed a a paste, add to work add the softened
butter. butter. Continue 10 mixture, adding the lhe rest of the eggs one by One.
the mixture, one. Butter creams. CRÈMES cniuns AU AU BEURRE REURRE - There are two
ways of making butter creams, which which are used lIsed for far garnishing cakes
and pastries. One and One combines butter buller with Custard cream (see is made
made with and the below) and the othe!" other is with sugar sugar syrup, beaten egg
yolks Both types of butter cream may butter cream may be yolks and and butter.
butter. Both types of flavoured chocolate, vanilla vanilla or or any Ilavoured with
mocha, praline, praline, chocolate, with mocha, liqueur. Butter crearo cream (with
custard) custard) I. cniw AU BEURRE CREME AU RFURRE - Make a (see below). Beat il
it until it is lukewann. lukewarm. Add Cuslard il is Custard cream (see (l lb., 2
eups) pieces for for every 450 g. (1 cups) butter in every 6 6 dl. in small pieces
450 (l pint, 21 2| cups) custard, beating ail all the (1 the lime. wilh time.
Flavour with to the vanilla sugar, or other flavouring, Aavouring, according 10 the
recipe. (with custard) 1rzButter cream custllrd) n. cream (with II. CRÈME cnEw AU
a,u BEURlŒnnunnE - ingredients. g. (18 oz.) 12 egg eggyolks. 2f cups) fine
gredients. 12 yolks, 500 g" fine sugar, 2 oz.. 2i (l lb., g. (1 scant cup) fresh
cream, 450 g, dl. (t lb .. 2 cups) butter, $ pint, seant I vanilla pod, or 1 I
teaspoon 1 teaspoon vanilla essence. essence. yolks, Method. Work together the
sugar, egg yol Melhod. ks. vanilla vanilla and cream in a basin. pan or a Jow low
heat heat or or over a a pan or casserole Put the basin basin over a and whip the
mixture half-full of hot water, and mixture until it il becomes Remove from the the
heat and continue frothy, light and white. Remove it cools. cools. Mix Mix this
custard with with the to whip until il ta whip unlil this eustard the creamed
butter. butter. Custard creams creams can can be be flavoured various ways; ways;
with in various Custard flavoured in tea or vanilla; lemon, orange or mandarin
zest; with coffee, Ica liqueurs. cream syrup. CRÈME cniiur AU BEURRE BEURRE AU
SYROP syRop Butter cre am with Syrllp. - Boil (l lb., 2 cups) cups) sugar and and
31 dl. (generous ] pint, I} l] 3t dl. 450 g. (l cups) water to 104°C. 104"C.
(22O'F.), making F), maki ng generous 5 dl. syrup. (vanilla, zest. Infuse the
chosen flavouring flavouring (vanilla, zest, etc.) in in the syrup. over 12 egg egg
yolks, beating Gradually pour the boiling syrup over (l lb., 2 g. (1 constantly.
Pass through a fine fine sieve and and add 450 g. constant/y. cups) butter. Mix
weil. well. (lf To make I litre cream. CREME cnius CHANTlLLY cHANTILLv make 1 litre
(Ii Chantilly cream. - To (scant pint, quart), put tlitre pint,2f, thick pints,
generous quart), 21 cups) Ihiek I litre (seant in a kept in fresh cream in a basin.
basin. The cream should have been been kepl freso possible. Beat place, or if
possible. Beat the for 24 24 hours, if ice, for a a cool cool place, or on on ice,
fine on a fine it doubles doubles its volume. Drain Ihe the cream on cream until il
(2 OZ., g. (2 Add 50 and 1 I teaspoon fine sugar sieve. Add 50 g. oz., ] cup) cup)
fine sugar and sieve. vanilla sugar or a few drops vanilla essence. vanilla fruit.
CRÈME AUx FRUITSFRUrrs cRiME CHANTILLY cHANrrLLy AUX Chantilly Chantilly cream with
fruit. all kinds of fruit pulp, but strawberry This can be made with ail raspberry
are are the most suitable. to the the whipped suitable. Add to or raspberry the
most or pulp, passed passed through a third through a its volume volume of fruit
pulp, cream a third of ils eream fine sieve. fine 2 dl. I. CRÈME cnius AU AU
CHOCOLAT crrocot.,cr Pour 2 Chocolate Chocolate cream cream I. - Pour (4 oz., (t
pint, seant g. (4 125 g. scant eup) cup) warm warm water over over 125 oz.,l| H
cups) gentle heat grated chocolate. Stir over a a gentle heat until until the the
mixture mixture Stir over then simmer for for 15 l5 minutes" minutes. Add Add 3
tablespoons tablespoons (scant boils, then 1 tablespoon butter. thick cream and and
1 * cup) fresh thick can be served cold. Usuallv sen'ed served hot but can

ct

Add melted Chocolate cream cream II. n. cnirun CRÈME AU AU cHocoI-lr CHOCOLAT
melted - Add pint,2l Custard cream (see cups) Cuszard (seant pint, 2t cups) (see
chocolate to 1] litre (scant below). egg yolks, L'ANGLersr 8 egg Custard cream.
cniMs CRÈME A À L'ANGLAlSE - Work 8 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) fine sugar, and
and a small pinch of until the salt in a spatula, over over a salt in a a pan with
with a a gentle heat, heat, untîl is lifted. mixture forms ribbons lifted. Moisten
Moisten ribbons when the the spatula is gradually (scant pint, dl. (seant 5 dl.
pint, 2f, cups) cups) boiled boi!ed milk, gradually with with 5 flavoured, lemon or
orange orange according to ftavoured, aeeordÎng ta taste, with vanilla or lemon
zest. all the time, Mix well. weiL Keep the pan pan on the heat, heat, stirring ail
lime, until the AI this this point point the the custard until the contents almost
almost boil. boil. At cling to the spatula. should c1ing Pass the cuslard custard
through through a fine sieve and keep it warm in a a hot bain-marie (double boiler)
if required to to accompany a pudding, and keep in lum it il out ouI into inlo a
basin and În a cool place pudding, or turn it should be if to case, il be served
cold. cold. In In the latter lat 1er case, be stirred ta be while cooling to 10
prevent prevenl a skin forming. This custard can be made more cheapl)' cheaply by
using fewer egg yolks (6 instead of of 8) and by adding to the egg yolk and sugar
mixture a a teaspoon teaspoon of arrowroot or fecula fecula (corn (corn or potato
consistency to the the custard and starch). This gives a thicker thieker
eonsistency prevents it allowed to overheat. il from clotting if alJowed addition
of gelatine, for It is cold, with the Il is used used cold, the addition for cold
(q.v.), Rice such as as bavarois bavarois (q.v.), charlottes (q.v.), d sweets,
(q.v.), charlottes Rice à sweets, such 1>Vl:nérn"·,rp (see RICE), etc.
I'impiratrice A L'auctAIss coI-rEr gelatine. CRÈME L'ANGLAISE COLLÉECustard cream
with gelatine. cRiME À (desserts). Prepare the custard as Used cold sweels sweets
(desserts). Used for for cold the custard (l oz.) g. (1 25 g, above. When When it
add 25 it is is cooked, add described described above. in cold cold water. Sli!"
Stir while soaked in while it gelatine which which has has been soaked the custard,
dissolves. Strain S'rain Ihe custard. and stir while it cools. Custard cream with
with liqueurs. liqueurs. CRÈME À L'lucLAIsE l'ANGLAISE AUx AUX Custard cream cRiiME
A in the same way LIeUEURs Prepare the custard cream cream in LIQUEURS the same way
as - Prepare gelatrne. When When it is cool, creamwith cool, add a tablespoon
Custard creom Cuslard with ge/mine. kirsch, maraschino, of liqueur: Curagao,
kirsch. of ligllel!!" Curaçao, maraschi no. rum, ru m. etc. MIRoIR cream au au
miroir. cRiME AU AU MIROlR Custard cream Custard miroir. CRÈME - Custard glazed
wilh cream glazed with a salamander salamander or hot hOI poker. cream pouR FOURRER
filling for wafres 1. I. cniuE POUR FoURRER cream filling Custard cream Custard for
waffles (9 oz g. (9 generous cup) butter, LEs cAUFRES - Whip 250 250 g. oz., ..
generous g. (7 oz I cup) praline 250 g. (9 o2.,2 cups) icing sugar, 200 g. oz., ..
1 in a slightly warmed basin. When well use as as a m a weIl blended, blended, use
filling filhng for waffies. filling for wames wafres n. II. CRÈME cninas pouR
FoURRER Custard cream filliog Custard POUR FOURRER (9 g. LEs cAUFREs Cook 250 o2.,2
cups) LES GAUFRES Cook 250 g. (9 oz"' 2 lump sugar and ball I reaches the bal!
scant 1 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant * cup) water till it reaches (see
SUGAR). Skim and Put 15 15 egg and strain Ihe the syrup. Put stage (see it fall
letting il syrup over them, letting yolks in a basin. Pour the sugar syrllp in a
thin thread. Mix. Add 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter (7 oz" g. (7 cup)
praline, worked into a I Clip) a cream. cream. Add Add 200 g. oz., 1 worked into
beating all the time. beating ail is given for these creams, one Although praline
flavouring ftavouring IS flavouring. can also use coffee, chocolate, vanilla or
orange flavourîng. t'e,NGu.ISr AU lu cniw À A L'ANGLAISE with tea. flavoured "ith
tea. CREME Custard cream flavoured Custard replacing the castard cream, cream,
replacing ruf Prepare llke THÉ _. Prepare like Mocha Mocha cus/ard a strong
infusion of tea. coffee with a made by adding adding ta to the egg yolk can aiso
also be custard can be made the egg The clJstard tea leaves have been infused whîch
tea and sugar mixture mixture milk in which (without boiling). cream. CRÈMJ' cnurc
PÂTISSIÈRE, rAnssiltnr, DIfi FRANGIDIT"E FRANGIFrangipane Frangipane pastry cream.
g. (7 oz., vrvr, -Ingredienls. flour, 4 whole oz., 1 lf PANE i cups) sifted flour.
- Ingredients.200 g, yolks, I pints, generous generous quart) milk, eggs, 6 egg egg
yolks, litre (lf pints, l litre eggs, (2 oz., g. (2 (4 oz. g. (4 50 g. oz., f cup)
butler, butter, 100 oz. I cup) fine 50 ~ cup) lOQ g. fine sugar, Method. Mix the
whole eggs, egg yolks, flour and sugar in in low heat. When they and form a a pan
over low they are are smooth smooth and a a pan over beat. When when the spatula is
lifted out of the pan add the milk milk the spalula Îs lîf!ed ribbon when and
butter. Cook over the heat, stirring cootinuously continuously with and butter.
Cook the heat, the spatula. the crushed crushed macaroons. Cook, Cook, stirrîng
stirring spatula. Add the Add the prevent a skin fOl·ming. from time to time, to
prevent forming. from

(ls

286 286
CREPE CRÊPE
pashy cream French pastry or Confectiooer's cream or Confectioner's custard.
custard. CREME cniiup French pArtss$nn This pilfisserie for filling is is rnuch
much used in pâlisserie used in for large large - This nlling gdteaux, and and
small small gâteaux, and in in the preparation of puddings, both the preparation of
puddings, both and give two hot and and cold. cold. We We give two ways ways of of
making making il, it, the the first first being being hot more economical. the more
economical. the First metllOd. method. Put Put 50 g. 50 g. oz., } cup) sifted
sifted f1our, flour, 175 175 g. Q oz., FirSI e. (2 ] cup) (6 OZ., crp) fine oz.,
ioi cup) pinch of fine sugar, sugar, a a small small pinch of sail, salt, 1 I
tabJespoon tablespoon (6 good quality quality butler and 4 4 whole whole eggs
butter and eggs in in a a thick-bottomed thick-bottomed good pan. Work Work the
mixture wilh the mixture with a a sp,Hula spatula or or wooden wooden spoon. spoon.
pan, (scant pint, pint, 2l Add :\litre (seant cups) boiling milk in in whieh
2{ cups) boiling milk which a a + lilre Add pod has vanilla pod infused, or has
been been infused, or to to which which a a few few drops drops of of vanilla
vanilla essence essence have put the have been added. Stir and put pan on been
added. Stir and the pan on the the vanilla heat. Let Let it it boil few minutes,
minutes, stirring boil for for a a few stirring constantly constantly to to heat.
prevent the the cream cream frorn from catching on pan. on the bottom' bottorn of
ofthe the pan. prevent Turn into into a a basin. Stir the the cream basin. Stir
cream frorn from time time \0 to lime time as as it it Turn cools. cools. Second
method. procedure, but method. Follow Follow the the saille same procedure, but
modify Second the i ingredients: g.(2+ 65 g. l0 tablespoons) oz., IOta g. flour,
250 250 g. (2} OZ., blespoons) flour, the ngredicn ts; 65 (9 oz., generous cup)
fine sugar, 6 (scant pint, oz., generous yolks, ~ pint, 6 egg yolks, (9 I litre
(seant 2| cups) cups) milk milk flavoured flavoured with vanilla, a pinch ofsalt. a
pinch of salt. 2i Mocha custard custard cream. cream. CRÈME cRiME ANGLAISE ANGLATsE
AU AU \lOKA MoKA -. Mocha - Prepared in in the the same same way way as as a a
simple simple ClIslard Custard cream, cream, but but Ihe the pared yolks and
mixture of of egg and sugar egg yolks sugar is is rnoistened moistened with with
milk milk in mixture which sorne some freshly roasted roasted coffee beans infused.
beans have been been infuscd. which (The infusion infusion is is made made by
heating the the milk milk and and coffee beans (The without allowing allowing it it
to to bail.) boil.) without proMsdnEs - 'Put yolks PlombiCres cream. cream. CRÈME
cRiME PLOMBIÈRES egg yolks Plombières - 'Put 8 egg and 1 I tablespoon rice rice
Rour glasses flour in in a a casserole. Add Add 3 3 glasses and (cups) good good
milk put the milk which is almost boiling; pan on which is the pan on a a boiling:
put (cups) moderate heat heat and and stir continuously with stir continuously with
a a wooden spoon. moderale When the mixture begins la to thicken, remove from from
the thicken, remove the heat Whcn the mixture and continue to stir until smooth.
Cook for a a few few minutes Cook for and to stir until smoolh. longer. This cream
cream must be be of of the consistency as as an an the same consistency longer.
This ordinary French (6 OZ., French pastry g. (6 cream. Mix Mix in 175 g. oz., i
cup) ordinary pastry cream. in 175 fine pinch of sugar and and a a minute of salt.
Pour the mixture mixture "up) into into. fine sugar minute pinch another pan and
sel set it on ice, from time stirring from It another pan and it on ice, slin'ing
lime to time. time. Il thickens good half as it cools. Just mix in Just before
serving, in a a good serving, mix half thickens as it cools. glass liqueur and of
liqueur a saucerful and a saucerful of cream. The glass of of whipped whipped
eream. whole, amalgamated, should should produce a light, whole, well weil
arnalgamated. produce a light, velvety cream consistency. Arrange of a a perfect
perfect consistency. Arrange the the cream Cream in a silver cream of dish, or in
small pots, a pastry-case, specially made biscuitdish, or in small pots, a pastry-
case. a a specially biscuitcase, or (From a dish-shaped container of or in in a
dish-shapcd container of almond paste'. paste·. (From case, Ie Cuisinier royal
royalby and Fouret, le Cuisinier by Viard Viard and Fourel. 1828). 1828). Praline
PraJine custard custard cream. cream. cnilc CRÈME pnlrlN6 PRALINE Add praline
praline to ta - Add Custard cream. Cus/ard cream. St This is St Honor6 Hoooré
cream. cream. cnirraE CRÈME sArNT-HoNons SAINT-HONORÉ - This is French pastry
paslry cream crearn to 10 which which stiffiy stiffly beaten bealen egg whites are
are added when when the Ihe cream crcam is is still still boiling. boiling. Use 16
16 egg egg whites whites for a a cream crearn made made with with I 1 litre litre
(lf (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) milk, milk, 500 500 g. g. (18
(18 oz., OZ., 2| 2i cups) cu ps) fine fine sugar sugar and l6 16 egg egg yolks.
yolks.
PÂTISSIÈRE -

jours de Aux jours de dîme dtme el et de taille de laille Alix Cricy fUI une
balaille, bataille, Créey fut une Dont le pays maltrailé le pays maltraitd Dont
plaie au Garde la la pfl1ie au cOlé. c|td. Garde Combat d'eSLOc d'estoc eL et de de
laille taille l! Combat De celle cette cruelle cruelle en/aille, entaille, De O
conlraSle! contraste! Il n'est n'est resté resti o potage réputé, rdputi. QU'lin
Qu'un po/age Le lemps temps a, a, pour nos nos délresses, ditresses, Le D' irri
sist ib les caresses cares se s D'irrésistihles Dont chaqlle chaque âge dge
es/adouci. est adouci. Donl Ligumes Laillés piices taillis en en pièces Légllmes
Disent seuls, seuls, en en ce ce lemps-ci temps-ci Disen/ grands comhats combats de
de CréeJ'.' Cricy ! Les grands

This sonnet play on the is a the word sonnet is a playon word raille, taille, and
and is is really really This untranslatable. The The sense sense is is this: this:
In In the the days days of of lithes tithes and and untranslatabJe. taxes there
there was a battle was a battle at at Crecy Cr6cy from from which which Ihe the
district taxes greatly. Of suffered greatly. Of this this cut-and-thrust cut-and-
thrust fighting, fighting, this suffèrcd this cruel cruel slashing, nothing nothing
remains remains bUI a famous famous soup. soup. Time but a Time has slashing, has a
a way of healing healing dislress, distress, and and vc:getables vegetables eut cut
into pieces arc are the record of ofthe fights at Crecy. Crdcy. only record the
great fights CREMANT-- Word used used for Champagne Champagne wines which have
CRÉMANT only a smalJ small amount of creamy froth. onlya

(A LA) CREME (À LA) Name given given ta to meat meat and and vegetable CRÈME - Name
preparations, of which pan juices are which the the pan are mixed wilh
preparations, with fresh e.g. Mushrooms Mushrooms li d la crème crime (see
MUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS). cream e.g.
CRDME RENVERSEE RENvERSnn Ivtade like like Caramel cusLard custard (see CRÈME lsee
- Made CUSTARD). Custard cream cream poured into a a mould, mould, cooked CUSTARD).
in the oyen oven in a a bain-marie and and lurned turned out when cold. CREMETS
SAUMUR CRÈMETS D'ANGERS, DE SAUMUR - Cream cheeses to which gradually which egg
whites are added. They are prepared by gradually and whipped egg whites, adding
fresh stiffiy whipped cream and beating all the time, so that elements ts are
properly bea ting ail t hal the various elemen amalgamated. The mixture is put put
in in perforated perforated moulds, amalgamared, The mixlure is covered and left to
drain in a cool place. To covercd with fine nne muslin, and]en serve, crimets are
are turned of their serve, the the crémets lurned out out of their moulds moulds
and covered cream. covered with fresh cream. CREOLE culinary preparations, CRÉOLE
(A (À LA) - Term for ror various culinary preparations, usually lIsually containing
containing a rice ricc garnish, garnish. prepared as a pilaf pilaf or d à la criole
simmered in oil, and créole and finished with sweet peppers simmered with wilh
tomatoes. A Criole can also A la Créole a150 apply to sweet swcet dishes. Most of
of these these are prepared with wilh rice, rice. and flavoured with orange.
orange. CREPE. eggs and CRÊPE. eANcAKE PANCAKE - A A dish dish made of a batter
baller of eggs flour, poured pourcd sparingly sparingly into a frying-pan, and
fried friOO on both sides. sides. CrGpe 1. pArr PÀTE A À cntprs CRÊPF.5 - Mix Mix
500 g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 4| 4t cups) Crêpe batter baHer I. sifted oz" scant seant
cup) fine sugar, a CI small pinch pinch sifted flour, 200 g. (7 oz., salt, and a
vanilla vanilla pod pod (or a few drops vanilla vanilla essence, added added after
the by one, Ihe eggs). Add 8 whole wholc eggs and 4 yolks, one by working batter
with a wooden wood en spoon spoon until until well weil mixed. working the the
batter Add Add * J litre (l{ (1! pints, pints. lf, Il pints) pints) milk, milk, and
2 2 to to 3 tablespoons tablespoons Cognac or other liqueur, liqueur, and 25 25 g.
g, (l (1 o2.,2 OZ., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, brown. bUller, which which
has has been bcen heated hea ted until un ril light brown. The batter balter should
be be made made in in advance advance and left to ta stand. sland. Cr0pe fi. pAre
PÀTE A À cnEprs CR.ÊPES - Mix 5009. 500g. (l8oz, (1 80z., 4j 4}- cups) cups) Crêpe
batter batter IL flolrr, flour, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., generous generous i 1-
c,rp) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, and and a pinch pinch of salt. Add Add 10 la
eggs. eggs. Work Work the Ihe mixture mixlure until until it it is is smooth,
smooth, and and add add 3 3 dl. dL (t (t pint, pinl, lf li cups) cups) fresh fresh
cream, crcam, + t dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scantf cup) Cognac, g. (3 (3
oz., OZ., 6 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted melted butter butter scant !-cup)
Cognac, 75 75 g. and 1 1 litre litre (If; (Ii pints, pinlS, generous generous
quart) milk. Strain Strain through through a fine ~ dl. dl. (3 () tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant scant f t cup) ClIp) orgeat orgeat syrup, syrup, fine sieve.
sieve. Add Add + and and 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., I 1cup) Clip) finely finely
crushed crushed macaroons. macaroons. Flavour Flavour to to taste. tas te.
287 287

CREAM CREAM SAUCE SAUCE - See See SAUCE. SAUCE.

CREAM CREAM SOUPS. SOUPS. cRiues, CRÈMES, porAcEs POTAGES - Thickened Thickened
soups, based fish or or shellfish. shellfish. (See (See based on on cereal, cereal,
vegetables, vegelables, fowl, fowl. fish souPs SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.)
CRECY CRECY (A (À LA) LA) - Name Name for for various various preparations,
preparations, especially especially a purée Crdcy. Crécy. All Ali dishes dishes
named named in in this this way a soup soup called called purde include include a a
garnish garnish of of carrots carrOIs and some are exclusively made made from from
carrots carrots (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTHS). This This name name
has has been been given given to 10 various various dishes dishes because because
of of the Ihe high high quality quality of of the the carrots carrots harvested
harvested at Crlcy, Créey, a small town town in in the the Seine-et-Marne. Seine-
et-Marne. Some Sorne authors authors insist insiSI that that the the name name of
of this this soup soup comes from of a a small small town town in in the Ihe Somme,
near near which the the from that thal of Battle Batlle of of Cr6cy Crécy took took
place place in in 1346. 1346. Monselet Monselet leans leans towards lowards this be
seen secn from from his his sonnet called called la la Pur6e Purée this view, view,
as as can can be Cr6cy: Crécy:
CRÉPINETTES CREPINETTES
with pancakes Sprinkle with slant at both ends. Sprinkle pancakes and trim them
them on a slant icing Icmg sugar and glaze in a hot oven. cREpEs AU Crêpes with
with Roquefort. Roquefort. CRÊPES AU RoQUEFoRT ROQUEFORT - Make Cr€pes pancakes
with unsweetened batter. batter. Spread them with small pancakes the following
mixture: (3 tablespoons) Roquefort cheese Work 2 2 tablespoons (3 Work pas te. Add
4 tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) Bichamel Béchamel into a a paste.
pepper and nutmeg. sauce (see SAUCE). Season Season with pepper flreproof dish, a
fireproof Roll ~oll up uP. the pancakes. pancakes. Arrange Arrange them on a glaze
in a a hot oven. and glaze spnnkle wlth grated cheese, and sprinkle with and Edam
Crêpes Parmesan, Cantal, Brie, and Gruy6re, Parmesan, Cr4pes with Gruyére, cheese
can be made in the same way. pancakes with with a a batter Make thin thin pancakes
Crêpes Cr0pes Suzette Suzette - Make ftavoured mandarin orange juice. and mandarin
flavoured with Curaçao Curagao and Spread them with the the following mixture: g.
(2 oz.,;\: c,tp) oz.,i cup) Cream Cream 50 g. (2 OZ., oz., i I cup) fine sugar with
50 g. juice of a grated zest, its grated butter. Add the juice butter. a mandarin
mandarin orange, orange, its with a and Work the the mixture with and 1 I good
tablespoon Curaçao. Curagao. Work spatula. spatula. four, them into four, fold them
Spread the this filling, fold the pancakes with this and and serve hot.

Crêpes filled filled with with strawberries Crapes

(18 OZ., Crêpe batter balter III. pArE PÀTE e À CRÉPES g. (18 oz., 4~ cn6pns CrGpe
$ - Mix 500 g. cups) flour, ftour, I150 ~ cup) of cup) fine sugar, a pinch of 50 g.
(5 OZ., oz., generous j salt, l0 10 eggs. Work the mixture mixture and add 4 dl. (*
pint, pin t, scant 2 cups) cream cream and j ~ litre (scant (scant pint, 2;\: cups)
milk. Flavour to pint,2f, taste. (18 OZ., Crêpe batter IV. IV. pirE PÀTE e À cnEpEs
CRÊPES g. (18 oz., ~ Cr6pe batter $ - Mix 500 g. c~ps) sifted g. (5 OZ., generous 1
cup) fine sugar, a cups) flour, 150 I 50 g. oz, generous~· sifted ftour, pmch
mixture· yolks. Work the pinch of salt, 4 whole eggs eggs and and 5 yolks. the
mixture: add I 1 litre (If, (Ii pints, generous quart) quart) milk and and finish
with 6 add stiffiy beaten egg whites. Flavour to taste. tas te. pArn À Savoury
crêpe batter. PÀTE is used cnBpEs SALÉES slrfrs -- This is A CRÊPES crOpe baffer.
for soup hot hors-d'œuvre. garnishes and 250 g. Work 250 for soup garnishes and hot
hors-d'euvre. Work S. (9 2± cups) (9 OZ., in a a basin· basin; cups) sifted sifted
ftour flour and 4 eggs together in o2.,2{ ( l{ pints: seas?n teaspoons salt. pints,
1+ teaspoons with I! salt. Moisten with i season wit~ f litre (I} li mdk, which has
been boiled down by one third. The pints) milk, lf plOtS) milk can be replaced by
stock or broth. Alsatian crêpes. Pancakes made Alsatian crGpes. CRÊPES ALsACIENNEs
cnfipns ALSACIENNES - Pancakes ~rom batter, filled filled with with redcurrant
redcurrant or or raspberry from a a ~rêpe cr2pe batter, jelly, spnnkled Jelly,
glazed in a and glazed a hot oven. sprinkled with sugar and poMMEs - See Apple
crêpes. DE POMMES APPLE, Crêpes CrApes Appfe crGpes. CRÊPES cnEpEs DE - See APPLE,
stuffed apples. stuffed with apples. Buckwheat crêpes, galetous. CRÊPES nr6 NOIR
NolR, cr6pes, calle<! called galetous. cn0prs AU eu BLÉ DITES (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) olive oil oil orrns GALÉTOUS carftous tablespoons (3 - Put 2
tablespoons in a 2 cups 2 small glasses brandy, 2 2 pinches salt, 2 in a ba~in
basin with 2 sour mdk, flour. Mix weil. well. g. (18 OZ., milk, 500 g. oz., 4t +
cups) buckwheat fIour. Add eggs, one one by one, and and work work the the mixture
Add 8 8 whole whole eggs, by one, thoroughly to to avoid lumps. Cook griddle which
pancakes on rubbed has been a griddle which has the pancakes on a been rubbed Cook
the with butter or fat. fat. This is is a a Breton speciality. Crêpes rn CÉVENOLE
Make the la cévenole. c6venole. CRÊPES cnf;pEs À A LA cEveNolE -- Make CrGpes à i
la crêpes in the usual way, When they crApes-in way, with a a sweetened sweetened
batter. When are pur6e of with a a thin thin layer layer of of a a purée of each
one one with are cooked cooked cover each marrons glacis, ftavoured flavoured with
rum. marrons glacés, Roll pancakes and Roll up the pancakes and arrange arrange on
on a a fireproof dish. dish. up the Glaze in the oven. Glazs them in Potato crêpes
A TO, Potata POTATO, Potato pancakes. crGpes See POT - See Crêpes purposes. CRÊPES
garnist4 and cn6pes for other other purposes. a soup soup garnish, and for Cr6pes
as as a porAcES -- Prepared pouR G.ARNITURE POUR DE POTAGES Prepared in in the the
ordinary ordinary cARNrruRE DE way, pancake batter, with unsweetened or with with
Savoury Savoury way, wlth unsweetened pancake batter, or crêpe (See GARNISHES.)
GARNISHES.) cr2pe baller. batter. (See Crêpes DRs CHARTREUX Prepare a CrGpes
Chartreux. Chartreux. CRÊPES cnEpns DES a cHARTREUx -- Prepare pancake grated zest
pancake mixture and zest of and add add crushed crushed macaroons, macaroons,
grated of an pancakes in in and sorne fine Champagne. the pancakes an orange and
some fine Champagne. Cook Cook the the usual usual way. Serve creamed butter
blended with crushed crushed meringues meringues Serve with crearned blended with
and green Chartreuse. with green Finish as as for for Crêpes CrApes and ftavoured
flavoured with Chartreuse. Finish Suzelle (see below). Suzette (see below).
Raspberry crGpes. CRÊPES FRAMBoISES -- Cover thin Raspberry crêpes. cnEpEs AUX AUx
FRAMBOISES Cover thin pancakes pur6e, made by pancakes with removing stems stems of
of with raspberry purée, by removing r~spberries in sugar liqueur. Thicken Thicken
raspberries and and soaking them in sugar and and liqueur. soaking them wlth (see
CREAMS). pastry cream Roll up up the the with French CREAMS). Roll French pastry
cream (see

in cau!. Most encased in caul. Most CRÉPINETTES sausages, encased Small sausages,
CREPINETTES - Small layer of of forcemeat. forcemeat. similar preparations
preparations are enclosed in in a a layer are enclosed caul. salt pork can be be
substituted for the cau!. Paper-thin slices slices of salt in melted melted
Crépinelles, are usually covered in Cripinettes, however made, are butter fresh
breadcrumbs and fat, coated coated with with fresh other fat, butter or or other in
the oven. grilled. They can cooked in can be sautéed saut6ed or cooked In the Pieds
cendrillon. cendrillon. In the Very are called called Pieds crdpinettes are Very
small crépinelles past they were wrapped in in sheets sheets ofspecial of special
paper and cooked in the on the same same way they are are cooked cooked in cinders.
Nowadays they on hot cinders. fine pastry and as in a a thin thin sheet sheet of
finepastry as crépinelles, crdpinettes, or enclosed in cooked in the cooked in the
oven. When grilled, or in the oven, crépinelles cripinettes cooked in the oven,
When they are grilled, or cooked they are potatoes. They They can can are pur6e of
accompanied by a purée of potatoes. are usually usually accompanied by a are also
be or, if they they are a strongly seasoned sauce, sauce, or, strongly seasoned be
served served with a (see SAUCE). truffied, with a a Périgueux Pirigueux sauce (see
SAUCE). When includes diced are truffied, truffied, the the stuffing stuffing
includes When crépinelles cripinettes are of is, and and a alarge slice of
truffies, whatever large slice whatever the basic ingredient is, in enclosing it it
in placed on truffie on top top of the the stuffing stuffing before before
enclosing is placed truffie is the caul. the cau!. pork Crépinettes PORK,
Cinderella Cinderella pork Cr6pinettes cendrillon cendrillon See PORK, - See
crépine Iles. cripinettes.

with Chic ken crépinettes. DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- Made with Chicken cr6pinettes.
CRÉPINETTES cnfprNetrrs DE in a a mushrooms in minced with truffies and mushrooms
minced fowl, fowl, combined combined with truffies and way as as concentrated in
the the same same way concentrated, Velouté Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) in
(see below). Lamb crépinelles cripinettes (see with D'AGNEAU -- Prepared with .Lamb
cn6pwnrrrs D'AGNEAU Lamb crépinettes. cr6pinettes. CRÉPINETTES a white white or
mmced or brown brown and a lamb. mushrooms, mushrooms, truffies truffies and minced
lamb, in caul. caul. sauce, forcemeat and and wrapped wrapped in in a a delicate
delicate forcemeat sauce, enclosed enclosed in poRc -- Flat Pork Flat sausages.
sausages. DE PORC Pork crépinettes. cr6pineffes. CRÉPINETTES cREpINETTEs DE pig's
Crépinettes with minced minced pig's Made with Cr6pinettes Sainte-Menehould Sainte-
Menehould - Made (with or gravy (with veal gravy or tr?tters, with concentrated
concentrated brown brown veal trotters, b~und bound with pork forcemeat forcemeat
in a a fine fine pork wl~hout enclosed in truffies) enclosed without dl.ced diced
truffies) (wlth (with or in caul. caul. and wrapped wrapped in without truffies),
and or Wlthout TrufHed with rRurrfrs -- Made Made with cr6pinettes. CRÉPINETTES
cn6pnErrrs TRUFFÉES Trufred crépinettes. pork forcemeat sausage a fine fine pork
forcemeat and and diced diced meat, or or with with a sausage meat, (4 oz.). g. (4
Wrap truffies. portions weighing 100 g. oz.). Wrap into portions weighing 100
Divide into truffies. Divide each piece of portion in in a a piece of cau!. caul.
each portion grill under Cover a and grill under a uipinettes with with melted
melted butter butter and Cover the the crépinelles gentle pur6e of potatoes and and
Périgueux Pdrigueux gentle heat. a purée with a of potatoes heat. Serve Serve with
(see SAUCE). sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Veal minced vEAU -- Made Made with with
minced cr6pinettes. CRÉPINETTES cRfpINErrEs DE DE VEAU Veal crépinettes. veal, in
the way a white white or or brown the same same way veal, combined combined with
with a brown sauce, sauce, in as Lamb crépinelles. cripinettes. as Lamb
plants which CRESSo which given to Name given two separate separate plants cREssoN
-- Name to two CRESS. CRESSON garden have properties. One is watercress, the other
other garden woteruess, the have similar One is similar properties.

C/·ess. cress.
288 288
CROQUANT CROQUANT

Jam Jam croissants croissants (Austrian (Austrian pAtisserie) pâtisserie)

To To these these two two species species should should be be added added lady's
lady's smock, slnoek, the the leaves leaves of of which which are are sweeter
sweeter than than those those of of watercress. watercress. They They are in spring
spring salads. salads. Rock Rock cress eress is is eaten eaten in in salad in in
the the are eaten eaten in Vosges, is more more bitter bitter than than watercress.
watercress. There There is is also also wl'ld lVild Vosges, and and is
cresso cress.
Cress Cress has has a a slightly slightly bitter bitter taste, tas te, like Iike
that that of of mustard. mustard. The in cooking cooking is is watercress.
watercress. It is is used used The cress cress most most used llsed in raw, to
garnish gar:1ish grilled griJled and and roast roast meats, meats, or or in in
salad. salado Although Although raw, to it it is is excellent excellent cooked,
cooked, it it is is not not often often treated treated in in this this way. way.
Cress contains con tains iron, iron, sulphur, sulphur, calcium calcium and, and,
most most important, important, Cress iodine is easily easily assimilable).
assimilable). It lt also also contains con tains a large large iodine (which (which
is quantity of antiscorbutic antiscorbutic Vitamin Vitamin C. C. Wild Wild cress
cress should should not not quantity of be eaten eaten as as it it can can transmit
transmit parasites. parasites. When When cress cress is is to ta be be eaten eaten
be raw, raw, it it should should be be picked picked over over carefully,
carefully, the the thicker thicker stems stems and and

yellowing yellowing or or faded faded leaves Ieaves removed, removed, and and the
the rest rest quickly quickly
washed and and drained, drained. It It should should not not be be left left to to
soak soak in in water. water. washed For For recipes recipes see see WATERCRESS.
WATERCRESS. CRESTED LARK. LARK. cocHEvrs COCHEVIS - See See LARK. LARK. CRESTED
CRETAN DITTANY. DITTANY. DrcrAME DICTAME DE DE cnire CRETE - Aromatic Aromatic
CRETAN labinate formerly formerly used used in in treacle. treacle. It It is is
sometimes sometimes used used in in the the labinate of liqueurs. liqueurs .
manufacture of manufacture

CREUX (Wine) (Wine) - French French term term applied applied to to wine wine which
whicb lacks Jacks CRELIX body . body. CREVER (To (To burst) borst) - The The use
use of of the the word word crever crever gives gives many many CREVER be cooked
cooked to to the the people the the mistaken mistaken belief belief that that rice
rice should should be people point of of bursting, bursting, when when it it
becomes becomes a a glutinous, glutinous, insipid insipid mass mass point (see (see
RICE). RICE).
CRIQUET - Insect of the the same same family family as as the the
grassgrassCRICKET. cRreuE'r CRICKET. - Insect of is eaten eaten in in some same
countries. countries. hopper. lt It is hopper.

CROCK POT POT-- A Acrock crack pot, pot, commercially commercially produced
produced under under a a CROCK variety of oftrade trade names, names, is is an an
electrically electricaUy operated aperated counter-top counter-top variety well-
insulated cooking cooking appliance appliance that that cooks cooks food food at a
a low low well-insulated temperature for for many many hours. hours .
Manufacturers' Manufacturers' research research temperature of recipes, recipes,
but but the the kitchens have have invented invented a a large large repertoire
repertoire of kitchens crock pot pot is is particularly particularly useful useful
for for such such foods faods as as stews, stews, soups, soups. crock baked beans.
beans, etc. etc. baked eaten in in some sorne countries countries for for its its
alleged alleged restorative restorative properties. properties. eaten ALLIGATOR) .
(See ALLIGATOR). (See
pâle feuilletee feuilletée (puff (puff pastry), pastry), or or with with a a
leavened leavened dough dough for for pArc is given given below. below. which the
the recipe recipe is which in Budapest Budapest in in 1686, 1686, when wh en This
delicious delicious pastry pastry originated originated in This the Turks Turks
were were besieging besieging the the city. city. To To reach reach the the centre
centre of of the the the underground passages. passages. Bakers, Bakers, working
working town, they they dug d ug underground town, by the the Turks Turks and and
gave gave du ring the the night, night, heard heard the the noise noise made made
by during the alarm. aJarm. The The assailants assailants were were repulsed
repulsed and and the the bakers bakers who who the

had had saved the the city were granted the privilege privilege of making a special
special pastry pastry which which had had to ta take the form farm of a crescent in
memory memary of of the the emblem on the Ottoman Ottoman flag. fiag . Put g. (18
oz., 2| 21 cups) sifted flour fiour on the table, and Put 500 g. place 20 e. g. G
(5 oz.) dry dry yeast yeast in in the the middle middJe of the the flour. fiouf.
place 20 Moisten the lukewann milk milk and the yeast yeast with a little little
lukewarm and incorporate quarter ofthe of the flour. fiouf. Let the dough rise.
porate one quarter g. (7 oz' oz., scant seant cup) butter and Add a pinch of salt,
200 g. Add dl. (+ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) milk. milk. Mix these weil with
the the re2 dl. 2 well with maining flour fiaur and the the other dough, working it
all ail together maining if necessary, with a little extra milk. The and moistening
moistening it, if and be firm, firm, rather than soft. soft. Roll it into a bail,
dough should be a ball, coyer with with a a cloth c10th and leave to ta rise. cover
it into into pieces pieces the size size of ofan egg. Using Using a a rolling-pin
Divide it Divide an egg. the pieces pieces out out into into ovals and and then
then roll roll them them up up into roll the crescents. Place Place them them on a
baking sheet and and leave leave to to rise. crescents. with milk and bake bake in
a hot oven. aven. As soon as as they are Brush with (seant t ready, baste baste
with with a mixture of 3 tablespoons (scant ready, * cup) j litre patata flour
fiour and andi litre (scant pint, 2f, 2{ cups) boiled water. potato Bakers usually
sell sell two two sorts sorts of croissants, those made Bakers ta butter, and and
'the others', others', which no no law law obliges him to with butter, declare are
are 'made with with margarine'. margarine'. declare CROISSANTS Ar-rx AUX AMANDTs
AMANDES - Pound Almond croissants. croissants. cRorssANTs Almond 300 g. g. (ll (Il
o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) peeled almonds and and 300 g. (ll (II oz., 300 2~ cups) cups)
vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured sugar in in a a mortar, mortar, moistening
moistening 2] little by by little liule with with egg egg white in sufficient
quantity quantity to obtain a little obtain a be rolled out by hand. Add 2
tablespoons tablespoons paste which which can be paste tablespoons) flour fiour to
this paste. (3 tablespoons) and roll these these with Divide into into pieces
pieces the the size size of a nut, and Divide beaten egg egg and and roll fioured
hands hands into into cigar shapes. shapes. Dip in beaten floured in chopped
almonds. almonds. Shape Shape them them into crescents crescents on on them in them
of paper paper laid laid on baking baking sheets. Brush with egg yolk. sheets of
sheets 10 minutes minutes in the the oven oyen at medium heat. heat, and Bake for
for 8 to to l0 Bake then brush brush with with sweetened sweetened milk. milk. then
Jam croissants croissants (Austrian (Austrian pfitisserie). pâtisserie). cRorssANTS
CROISSANTS AUx AUX Jam CONFITURES - Cut Pull pastry pastry (see (see DOUGH) into
coNFIruREs some Puff - Cut sorne of jam on one one side side ofeach of each
triangular pieces. pieces. Put Put a a teaspoon teaspoon ofjam triangular triangle,
and and roll roll up up as as for ordinary croissants. Put them them on on
triangle, at a a good heat. heat. a baking baking sheet, sheet, brush brush with
with egg egg yolk, yolk, and and bake bake at a Wheo ready, ready, sprinkle
sprinkle with with fine sugar. sugar. When
CROMESQUI --Small entrée or or hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre made made with
with CROMESQUI'Small entrie salpicon (q.v.) enclosed enclosed in in a a pig's caul
caul (or (or slices slices of of salt salt a salpicon a pork) dipped dipped in in
batter batter and and deep-fried. deep-fried. (See (See HORSHORSpork) D'ŒUVRE, Hot
Hot hors-d' hors-d'œuvre.) D'(EUVRE, euvre.) birds, especially especially grain-
eating grain-eating birds. birds. In ln the the drawing drawing of of birds,
poultry and and winged winged game, game, the the crop crop is is removed.
removed . poultry CROQUANT (Pfltisserie) (Pâtisserie) - Petit four which, which, as
as its its name name CROQUANT - Petit four indicates, crunches crunches when when
bitten. bitten. indicates, in a a mortar mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,l] oz., l}
cups) cups) almonds almonds blended blended Pound in Pound CROP. JABor JABOT - A
dilation of of the the gullet forming forrning a a pouch in in CROP. - A dilation

CROCODILE - Reptile Reptile with with strong-smelling strong-smelling flesh. fiesh.

It lt is is CROCODILE

CROISSANT - Crescent-shaped Crescent-shaped roll roll generally generally made made

with with CROISSANT

289 289
CROQUE AU SEL CROQUE
(18 OZ., g. (18 added little by little. little. Add 500 g. with 4 egg whites, added
oz., 2f cups) fine sugar and and 1 I tablespoon vanilla sugar or a a few few 2*
drops vanilla extract. Strain through a fine sieve. Make the paste into little
boat-shapes, boat-shapes, roll in brown sugar and put them on on a a buttered
sheet. Bake Bake in a very and put them buttered baking baking sheet. in a moderate
oyen. oven.

the mould and remove the croquembouche. Set it on a pastry orange segments dipped
base, and complete by adding more orange with an spun sugar. sugar, topping it with
in glazing sugar, an aigrette of spun in glazed in cherries glazed in sugar cooked
to Decorate with preserved preserved cherries stage. crack stage.

(A LA) CROQLIE AU SEL (À Term for food food which is CROQUE is eaten - Tenu
seasoned only with salt. Artichokes à d la croque au sel are raw seasoned are
example. an example.
(Pitisserie) CROQUEMBOUCHE (Pâtisserie) CROQUEMBOUCHE - Made with ingredients which
crunch crunch between glazed the teeth teeth because between the because they which
they are are glazed au cassé cassd (to the crack stage). with sugar which is cooked
au The typical croquembouche is that made typical croquembouche made of choux
proThe is that of choux glazed with sugar, with sorne some kind cream, m, glazed
kind of crea fiteroles filled with and arranged one on top of the other. ofthe can
also also be made of Genoese pastries, Croquembouches can be made pas tries, almond
paste, and various fruits, the one one most paste, and meringues, almond frequently
made today being croquembouche of oranges. frequently (Car6me's recipe)'
Croquembouche of of chestnuts chestnuts (Carême's recipe)' CROCroquembouche
cRo'Grill 60 DE MARRONS MARRoNs GLACÉS crncEs fine Spanish QUEMBOUCHE - 'Grill 60
fine euEMBoucHE DE chestnuts, and and after after having chestnuts, having peeled
them them and and removed any glazeby ofburning, in sugar cooked to traces of
burning, glaze by dipping them in Place them, as the crack stage (see SUGAR). Place
as soon as glazed, mould. into a mould. to be 'The croquembouche has to be piled up
at the the last minute before serving, because the moisture contained in the
chestto soften soften the sugar and and make it lose both its connuts tends to
sistency sistencv and its brilliance.'

as an Hot sandwich served as CROQUE-MONSIEUR - Hot sandwich served CROQUE-MONSIEUR

hors-d'euvre or small entrée. entrde. hors-d'œuvre loaf. Spread with butter on Cut
slices slices from a fresh or stale loar. Gruydre cheese on top, with a one si de,
and lay laya a thin slice of Gruyère side, the sandwich sandwich and fry lean ham
on top of that. Close the slice of lean in cJarified until golden in clarified
butter. butter.
famous are CROQITETS-Dry of which the most famous CROQUETS - Dry petitsfours
petitsfours ofwhich those of the Bordeaux area. Bar almond cRoeuETS DE DE BAR Bar
BAR AUx AUX AMANDES almond croquets. croquets. CROQUETS ( I 8 OZ., Ingredients. 2l
2lcups) fi ne sugar, 250 g. (9 OZ., oz., 2* oz., 2* Ingredients. 500 g. (18 cups)
fine g. (10 OZ., 2j cups) sifted flour, cups) ground almonds, 275 g. ftour, 8 oz.,
2! I tablespoon tablespoon vanilla sugar. egg whites, 1 Method. Moisten the sugar
and ground almonds almonds in a basin whites worked in one at a time·. time: Mix in
the sifted with the egg whites flour and and vanilla sugar. sugar. Arrange Arrange
on a baking sheet in baking sheet in the ftour on a shape of ofleaves, leafshape,
shape leaves, using a thin piece piece of card bent into leaf sha pe, ofcard or a
special metal cutter. gentle oyen. in a Bake in a gentle When ready, leave leave to
to cool cool on on a Bake oven. When jar or tin, and keep in a dry place. marble
slab. Store in a jar croquets. CROQUETS cRoeuETs BORDELAIS BoRDELATS Pound 300 g.
Bordelais croquets. - Pound (ll1 OZ., o2.,2 cups) peeled almonds in mortar with 150
g. a mortar with 150 (1 2 cups) peeled almonds in a (5 OZ., g. (10 OZ., oz., scant
cup) unpeeled oz., lf (5 unpeeled almonds, 275 g. Ik cups) g. (4 OZ., grated oz., t
sugar, 100 g. eggs, the the grated butter, 2 whole eggs, sugar, i cup) butter,2 of
a lemon orange, a packet of zest of lem on or orange, of powdered yeast and a pinch
of salt. and roll into into the fonu form of a up and a large boudin boudin (black
Chop up pudding), at the edges. Place on on a a baking pudding), slightly flattened
ftattened at the edges. baking sheet. Brush with egg, egg, score it, and and bake
for for 15 minutes in a sheet. moderate oyen. oven. Cut into slices. slices.
salpicon CROQUETTES - Small preparations made with a salpicon containing, as (q.v.)
bound with a white or brown sauce and containing, well as as the the basic
ingredient, chopped mushrooms, truffies truffles well basic ingredient, sometimes
lean ham. and sometimes They can also be made with potatoes or other vegetables,
fresh or or dried; dried; with with rice rice cooked cooked in in stock water; with
fresh stock or or water; and Bichamel various forms of pasta combined with cheese
and Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE); or with a hash or a forcemeat ofvarious of various
meats or fish. Sweet croquettes are made with rice cooked in milk, with or with
with a a salpicon salpicon of fruit combined with semolina, or fruit combined with
stiff (see CREAM). Croquets French pastry cream cream (see Croquers is is the the
name element of of croquettes croquettes made with a basic element given to a
number of pasta. salpicon (q.v.) of 500 g. Preparation of croquettes Preparation -
Mix a salpicon (18 oz.) of the principal element (poultry, game, veal, veal, lamb
(9 oz.) very small g. (9 small dice dice with or offal) offal) cut cut up up into
into very with 250 250 g. or g. (4 oz.) diced diced mushrooms and and 100 g. diced
truffles. cooked, diced truffies. with 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, Moisten with
tablespoons, scant -t Moisten Madeira and I cup) Madeira heat in the oyen oven in a
covered pan. (f pint, scant 2 cups) cups) Velouté Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) Add 4
dl. <i which has been and to which which 3 egg yolks have which been boiled down
and thickness has been reached. Stir been added after the desired thickness well
over heat. Pour into a buttered baking baking dish, and dab the forming. Allow to
cool surface with butter butter to prevent a crust forming. croquettes. completely
before making making the croquettes. made with with fish or shellfish have
Croquettes made fish or have only only mushthem. rooms and truffies truffles added
to them. g. (2 to of about 50 to 75 g. Divide the mixture into portions portions of
of egg ftoured table, dip in a mixture of 3 oz.). Roll these on a floured cover
entirely witb with fine fine breadand olive oil beaten together, coyer shape them
into corks, balls, eggs or rectangles. crumbs, and shape

Croquembouche of oranges of oranges Croquernbouche

D'oRANcRs Croquembouche Croquembouche of oranges. CROQUEMBOUCHE cRoeuEMBoucHE

D'ORANGESDip segments segments of orange in sugar cooked cooked to to crack crack
stage. stage. Dip in sugar Arrange them one Arrange in a one on on top top of the
other other in a croquembouche mould. When the sugar is is cold, lightly heat the
periphery of

290
CROQUETTES CROQUETTES
Arrange tbem grill or them on on a a grill in aa frying or in frying basket, plunge
basket, and and plunge Arrange them into into boiling boiling oil. oil. Cook Cook
until golden. until they they are are crisp crisp and and golden. them Drain, wipe
wipe with with a a cloth, cloth, and and sprinkle sprinkle witb with fine fine
salt. salt. Drain, Arrange the the croquettes croquettes in in the pyramid or form
ofa the form of a pyramid or turban, turban, Arrange garnish with and garnish
parsley. with curled curled parsley. and When croquettes croquettes are are served
served as as an an entrée, entrie, they they are are accomaccomWhen panied by
garnish of by a a garnish fresh vegetables of fresh vegetables to to which which
butter butter has has panied pur6e of been added, added, or or with with a a purée
vegetables. of vegetables. been Croquettes themselves themselves if if made made
very very sm small can be be used used as as a a Croquettes ail can garnish for for
large large roasts, game or roasts, for for fowl, fowl, game or fish. fish. garnish
Recipes for for the the following following croquettes croquettes will will be
found under be found under Recipes HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'œuvre: hors-
d'euyre: beef, beef, brains, brains, cress, cress, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, gras, game, game,
lobster, lobster, oyster, vegetables, macaroni, oyster, vegetables, macaroni, foie
foie gras, Montrouge, cod, potatoes, printanière, printanidre, various cod, fish,
fish, potatoes, various meats, meats, Montrouge, Viennoise, poultry, poultry, etç.
etg. Viennoise, Apricot croquettes croquettes 1. I. CROQUETTES cnoqurrrrs AUX AUX
ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- Cook Cook Apricot (18 oz.) g. (18 apricots in in syrup, oz.)
apricots syrup, drain drain dry, dry, and and cut cut them them into into 500 g. (t
pint, Bind with pint, scant dice. Bind with 4 dl. dl. (} scant 2 2 cups) cups)
Fried Fried custard custord large dice. (see CUST CUSTARD), flavour with and
flavour with kirsch. kirsch. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. (see ARD), and (2 oz.)
Divide it into g. (2 portions, roll into 50 roll them 50 g. oz.) portions, them in
in flour flour and and in in Divide egg and and breadcrumbs. Deep-fry and
breadcrumbs. Deep-fry and serve with Apricot serve with Apricot egg (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. sauce (see Apricot croquettes
II. II. CROQUETTES cnoeurrrEs AUX Arrx ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- Cook Cook Apricot
halved apricots in in a a vanilla vanilla syrup. well, and syrup. Drain weil, and
fill fill each each balved (see pastry cream half with with 1 I tabJespoon
Frangipane pastry tablespoon Frangipane crealn (see half flavoured with with
kirsch. kirsch. Put Put 1wo halves apricot halves CREAMS), flavoured two apricot
(see in a cooked semolina and envelop a coating of of cooked semolina (see envelop
in together and SEMOLINA). Dip fry. Serve Dip in in egg breadcrumbs and and fry.
Serve egg and and breadcrumbs SEMOLINA). (see SAUCE) with Apricot sauce (see
kirsch. with kirsch. SAUCE) flavoured with with Brie cheese cheese croquettes.
CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DE FROMAGE FRoMAGE DE DE BRrE BRIE -Brie (l oz., g. (1 25
g. cup) sifted sifted flour in in a a casserole casserole with oz., li cup) with 25
25 g. g. Put 25 (l oz., (6 tabJerice flour. with 1 I dl. o2.,3 flour. Moisten
Moisten with dl. (6 table(1 3 tablespoons) rice j cup) (9 oz.) Brie and g. (9 g.
spoons, scant 1 250 g. cup) milk. Add 250 75 g. and 75 spoons, (3 oz., pieces. oz.,
6 6 tablespoons) into small cut into tablespoons) butter, butter, both both cut
small pieces. (3 grated n o[ cayenne, and a a pinch of a !ittle little grated
nutSeason with salt, a utgood heat, stirring until the mixture is a good is thick
meg. Cook on a thick enough. Spread it out on a buttered baking sheet and leave to
enough. to Cut into rectanguJar rectangular pieces, dip in egg and breadcrumbs,
cool. Cut and deep-fry. This creamy mixture is also used to fi fill creamy mixture
This Il tartlets or barquettes as a served as a hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euyre.
Chestnut croquettes croquettes I. CROQUETTES cnoqunrrns DE DE MARRONS MARRoNs Peel
the - Peel chestnuts and them in in a and cook cook them a light light syrup syrup
flavoured flavoured with vanilla. Sieve. Evaporate their moisture over heat, add
add 5 egg yolks (18 oz., g. (2 g. (18 for 500 and 50 yolks and (2 oz., t 2J 50 g.
500 g. o2.,2f, f cup) butter for cups) pur6e. purée. pur6e makes I croquette. Dip
in g. (2 oz., f, t cup) of 50 g. of the purée makes 1 egg and breadcrumbs, and
deep-fry in boiling oil. Serve with apricot apricot sauce sauce flavoured with
kirsch. Chestnut Chestnut croquettes croquettes II. MARRONS II. CROQUETTES
cRoeUETTES DE MARRoNs - Crumble 500 g. (18 (? (18 oz.) marrons marrons glacds
glacés (see (see CHESNUTS). CHESNUTS). Add 4 dl. (;} pint, (see CREAMS) pint, scant
scant 2 cups) cups) French French pasty pastry cream cream (see flavoured with
kirsch. kirsch. Leave Leave to to cool into croqcool and and make into uettes.
Finish in the same same way as for Apricot Apricot croquettes. Gruyère cheese
cheese croquettes. croquettes. cRoeuETTFs CROQUETTES DE Gruyire DE FROMAGE FRoMAGE
DE GRUYÈRE1 cup) sifted flour in a pan with cnuyinr - Mix 100 g. (4 oz., I t cup)
rice flour, 3 3 eggs and 2 egg yolks. Moisten 50 g. (2 oz., { eggyolks. Moisten
with 5 dl. (scant pint, 2f, 2-!- cups) cups) boiled boiled milk; milk; season
season with with a a pinch pinch of salt, a a small pinch of cayenne, and a a
little grated nutmeg. Bring to to the the boil. boil. Cook Cook on on a a good good
heat heat for nutmeg. for 5 5 minutes, stirring stirring constantly constantly to
prevent prevent it from sticking minutes, sticking to the bottom of of the pan.
Remove Remove from the heat. bottom oz., 1 cup) grated Gruyere. Gruyère. Spread Add
100 g. (4 oz,l Spread out the mixture on on a a baking baking sheet sheet and and
leave leave to to cool. cool. Cut Cut into mixture rectangles. Dip in egg and
breadcrumbs and fry in boiling rectangles. oil. oil. This cream cream can can also
aJso be be used used to to garnish canapis, canapés, barquettes, barquettes, This
bread, or tartlets. tartlets, which are then browned in the oven oyen fried bread.
and served served as as hot hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'auyre. and Mussel croquettes.
croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeuErrEs DE DE MOULES MouLEs - - Cook Cook 22 Musse) (3|
pints pints 4t litres (3-!pints) mussels 4| pints) mussels in in white white wine
wine with with sliced litres sliced parsley, thyme onions, parsley, thyme and and
bay leaf. Drain Drain the bay leaf. the mussels, mussels, take onions, take them
out and dry theirshells out of of their shells and dry them them on on aacloth.
cloth. Put Put them them themin in pan with saut6 pan with an quantity of an equal
equal quantity of diced diced mushrooms mushrooms aa sauté which have have been
been simmered in butter. butter. simmered in which (see SAUCE) Add Béchamel
Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) which which includes includes the Add the liquor
in mussels have in which which the the mussels have been cooked and been cooked and
wbich liquor which has has been boiled boiled down. down. Leave Leave to cool. to
cool. been Make croquettes, croquettes, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs,
Make breadcrumbs, and anddeepdeepfry. fry.

Potato croquelles croquettes Potato

(Larousse) (Larousse)

poMMRs DE Potato Potato croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeUETTES DE DE POMMES

DE TERRE TERRE -Prepare A TOES). potato mixture (see POT Prepare with with a a
Duchess Duchess potato mixture (see POTATOES). To To vary vary the the dish, dish,
when when served served as as a a hot hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d'uuyre or ot used
garnish, add used as as a a gamish, add various various ingredients ingredients to
to the the basic basic ducbess preparation, such duchess preparation, as finely
finely hashed such as hashed ham, ham, mushrooms, mushrooms, truffies, truffies,
thick thick tomato tomato sauce, sauce, chopped chopped onion onion Iightly lightly
cooked cooked in in butter, (q.v.), duxelles (q.v.) etc. mirepoix (q.v.), butter,
mirepoix duxelles (q.v.) etc. Rice (savoury). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes croquettes
(savoury). cnoquerrEs DE DE RIZ nrz -- Prepare Prepare either either with with rice
rice cooked cooked in in butter and bound butter and bound with with egg, egg, or
or with with cheese cheese risotto. risotto. Make Make the the croquettes
croquettes and fry in in smoking-hot and fry smoking-hot fat. parsley and fat.
Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley and serve serve with with tomato
tomato sauce. sauce. Rice (sweet). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes (sweet). cRoer.JETTEs
DE DE RIZ Rrz -- These These can can be be served (4 oz., served as as a a sweet g.
(4 sweet course. course. Prepare Prepare 100 100 g. oz., i* cup) cup) sweetened
(see RICE). sweetened rice rice (see RICE). As As soon as it it is is cold, soon as
cold, divide divide into into portions of g. (2 (2 oz.). 50 g. oz.). Make Make the
the croquettes croquettes in of 50 in the the shape of shape of apples apples or or
pears, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry
deep-fry in very hot fat. fat. Serve fruit sauce. Serve with a a fruit sauce. Rice
(strffed). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes (stuffed). cnoqurrrEs DE DE RIZ Rrz FOURRÉES
rounn6ss -Divide cooked, cooked, sweetened sweetened rice into into small small
balls. balls. Put Put them them on on a a floured board, board, slit slit them them
slightly, and fill fill with slightly, and with 1 I teaspoon teaspoon fruit
marmaJade (q.v.) or with marmalade (q.v.) (see with thick thick French French
pastry cream cream (see CREAMS). Close Close the the slit, slit, dip dip the the
balls balls in in egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs, and deep-fry. deep-fry. Rice
croquettes old style (Carême's (CarGme's recipe). CROQUETTES cRoeuErrEs DE DE RIZ
ntz À ,c, LA MANIiRE ANCIENNE Le MANIÈRE ANcTENNE 'Cook 175 g. (6 (6 oz., 175 g.
oz, i* cup) cup) - 'Cook Carolina rice good stock. rice in in good stock. Mix Mix
with I .tablespoon with 1 thick -tablespoon tbick Velouté (see SAUCE), Velouti
sauce (3 tablespoons) sauce (see SAUCE), 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons)
grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese, and and a a !ittle little nutmeg. nutmeg.
Divide Divide into into 10 l0 portions, portigns, make hollows in in each, and fill
them witb with a a salpicon salpicon of game or fowl combined with velouti sauce
with velouté sauce which which has has been been boiJed down. Close up the balls,
roll in fine grated boiled grated Parmesan and en in in the and th palm of then the
palm of the the band hand to to make make the the croquettes croquettes completely
round.' Dip in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with finely
grated Parmesan finely Parmesan cheese cheese and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Garnish
Garnish with with fried parsley. parsley. fried La Varenne croquettescroquettes -
Make Make large, large, thin thin crêpes cr4pes (q.v.) with with an unsweetened
crêpe ver the cr?pe batter. Co Cover the crêpes cr€pes with with a layer of a layer
of finely chopped chopped mushrooms mushrooms which finely which have have been
cooked in in been cooked

291 291
CROQUIGNOLLES CROQUIGNOLLES
sauce. Roll up, cut and combined with thick tomato sauce. butter and into into
slices, slices, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-
fry. Garnish Garnish with fried fried parsley. parsley. and fill with the chosen
mixture mixture (see HOR-D'G,UVRE.,F1ol HOR-D'ŒUVRE, HOI They can filled with hors-
d'euyre.) They hors-d'œuvre.) can also also be be filled with rice, rice, semolina,
duchess potato mixture, macaroni, noodles, nood les, etc.

CROQUIGNOLLES PARISIENNES PARISIENNES (Patisserie) (Pâtisserie) - Ingredients.500

(21 oz., cups) flour, o2.,2\ gredients. 500 g. g. (18 oz., oz., 4j 4tcups) flour,
600 600 g. g. (21 2i cups) cups) fine sugar, l0 10 egg whites, flavouring
flavouring (vanilla, (vanilla, orange orange or lemon zest,liqueurs). zest,
liqueurs). Mix half half the egg whites whites with icing sugar. Add the Method.
Mix sifted flour, the rest of of the egg and flavouring, flavouring, and mix well.
weil. Press Press through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag into into various
various shapes shapes on on a baking sheet. sheet. Leave Leave to dry out for for a
few hours. Bake Bake buttered baking in a moderate oven. oyen. In In various
various regions of of France France croquignolles are are slightly different.
different. The The best best known known are are those those of of Navarre in in
the Basses-Pyr6n6es, Basses-Pyrénées, which are made in the same way as above the
following ingredients: ingredients: 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., 4| 41 cups) cups) but
with the sifted flour, 500 500 g. (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2± cups) fine sugar, 7 egg
whites, whites, 4 sifted drops lemon essence or powdered vanilla, 2 tablespoons (3
tablespoons) brandy.
CROUSTADE (Pie, (Pie, pasty) pa st y) - Dishes made with with flaky flaky or
CROUSTADE puff puff pastry, filled with ragottts, ragoûts, salpicons salpicons or
other preparations. Croustades are also made with with bread which is is hollowed
hollowed Croustades out; out, brushed brushed with with egg egg and deep-fried,
then then filled fi lied with various pur6es purées (meat, fowl, fish, shellfish,
or vegetable). vegetable). Bread croustade. croustade. cRousrADE CROUSTADE DE pAIN
PAIN DE MIE - Made with inches) thick and trim to the stale bread. Cut a slice 5
cm. (2 inches) desired shape. shape. Decorate with knife-cuts knife-cuts in a a
pattern. pattern. Cut desired round the top with the point of the knife knife to
mark the lid. round fat until golden. Drain, and carefully prise prise off Fry in
deep fat the marked marked lid. Iid. Remove Remove the crumb crumb from from the
the inside, inside, and line the with with a thin layer of of forcemeat. Leave
Leave for a few moments at the open door door of a a warrn warm oven. oyen. Fill
the croustade with a the ragoût. All Ali the the fillings given for timbales (q.v.)
and and vol-auvol-auragoitt. (q.v.) can be be used. vent (q.v.\ vent Little
croustades croustades (hot). pErrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES (culunrs) (CHA
UDES) Line tartlet tartlet moulds mou Ids with a a sweet pastry pastry dough dough
(shortcrust (shortcrust with with I 1 egg and a little sugar added). Bake the
tartlets tartlets blind,

Little Liltle duchess duchess potato potato croustades: how to 10 empty emply them
using the Ihe handle of a small sma!! spoon using ofa

Little duchess duchess potato croustades.

pErrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES

EN

poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE DUcHESSE DUCHESSE - Spread out the Duchess Duchess
potato mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) in a thick, even layer on a
baking baking

sheet, and leave to cool. cool. Cut Cut into croustades with a a pastrycutter, dip
in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and finish in the same same way as Lillie noodle
croustades (see below). as for Little Little Little noodle noodle croustades
croustades (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). pErrrES PETITES cRousrADEs
CROUSTADES DE NourLLEs NOUILLES -'Prepare - 'Prepare a a noodle paste with with 12
egg yolks (see NOODLE). NOODLE). Roll Roll out out the paste and cut into narrow
strips. Boil for a few minutes in salted salted water. Drain the noodles noodles
and saut6 sauté them in 100 100 g. (4 oz., oz., i c.rp) cup) butter butter and a
little httle salt. Pour them into a large saut6 sauté pan and spread them out to a
depth of of 6 cm. (2] (2! inches). 'When 'When they they are are cold, cold, turn
turn them them onto onto a a slab slab and and cut croustades croustades with a
pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Mark lids lids with with a smaller-size smaller-size
pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, and fry in deep deep fat. Drain, remove remove the
lids and remove the centres, centres, leaving only a a thin thin casing. casing.
Fill with a salpicon.' salpicon.' Little rice croustades. pETrrEs PETITES
cRousrADFs CROUSTADES DE Rrz RIZ - Made with with rice rice cooked cooked in stock,
stock, left to cool, cool, and cut cut into into shapes shapes with a pastry-
cutter, pastry-cutter, in the same same way as Little Lillie noodle croustades.
Little Little semolina semolina croustades. croustades. prrrrns PETITES cRousrADEs
CROUSTADES DE DE sESEMoULEMOULE - The The same same as Little Lill le noodle
croustades, using using semolina semohna cooked in stock. When quite cold, the
semolina semolina can be combined with egg yolks. Little vermicelli vermicelli
croustades. croustades. pETrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES DE Little VERMICELLE
VERMICELLE - The The same same as as Little Lillie noodle noodle croustades, using
vermicelli vermicelli cooked in stock or plain plain water. wa ter.

Croustade Croustade made made from from a a bread bread roll roll

CROOTES CROÛTES - Different preparations preparations are designated designated

under this this name, name, some sorne made made of of bread, some sorne of brioche
dough or other types types of of bread dough. They are used used either with soups
other hors-d'œuvre. or as hors-d'uuvre.
Croûtes made made of of bread bread and served as a sarnish garnish are are usuallv
usually Crofftes croûtons. called cro0tons. CROÛTES FOR SOUP. cRoOTEs CROÛTES A À
poucr POTAGECROOTES Crofftes Croûtes for croiite croûte au pot pot - Divide Oivide
a a French loaf Qfl,fite) (flûte) into into S-crn. 5-cm. (2 inch) inch) slices,
slices, cut each each in half half lengthwise, Iengthwise, remove remove the soft
part, part, and dry the crusts crusts in a slow slow oven. oyen. the

Alternatively, sprinkle sprinkle them with the fat from the the pot-aupot-auand
bake feu aDd bake them them in in the the oven oyen until golden. fea

Hollowed-out Joaf of bread for for makine making a a croustade croustade Hol!owed-
out loafofbread

Diablotins. cRoOrEs CROÛTES Drrgs DITES DrABLorrNs DIABLOTINS - Cut Cut a French
loaf loaf Diablotins. into slices slices 6 6 to to 8 8 mm. mm. (* (j inch) inch)
thick. thick. Cover Coyer with with thick thick Bdchamel Béchamel into sauce (see
SAUCE) to to which which grated cheese seasoned with a a little cayenne has has
been been added. added. Sprinkle with with cheese cheese and in the oven. oyen.
brown in croûtes. cRo0rEs CROÛTES FARcTES FARClES - Cut a French loaf loaf into
Stuffed croiites.
292
CROOTES CROÛTES

Preparation ofcrottes Preparation of croûtes (Inroussel (Larousse)

(1+ inches) cm. (I~ slices 4 cm. incbes) thick. thick. Take out three-quarters
three-guarters of the the part, and soft part, and dry dry the crusts in soft the
crusts in the oven. Stuff them with the oven. chopped or sieved. sieved vegetables.
Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour over them a little httle melted butter butter and
brown in the the oven. Serve as an accompaniment to soup.

CROOTES FOR FOR HORS-D'ŒUVRE HORS-D'(EUVRE or CROÛTES OT SMALL SMALL ENpouR HORS-
D'œuvRE pETrrES E:-.ITRÉES TREES. CROÛTES cno0rns POUR TRÉES. HoRS-D'c,uvRE OU ou
PETITES nNrn6ns into 2~-cm. 2t-cm. Small croustades croustades made with stale cut
into bread, cut Small made with stale bread, (l-inch) thick slices. Press a small
pastry-cutter (I-inch) pastry-cutter half-way half-way into the slices to mark the
lids. portions, fill. Fry the croûtes, crofites, drain, remove rem ove the incised
portions, fil!. grated cheese. CROÛTES FRoMAGE GRATIcRo0rES AU Croûtes AU FROMAGE
Crottes with grated (*-inch) slices from a stale loaf loaf and trim into l'rÉE Nsr
- Cut 2-cm. (l-inch) until they are golden. oval oval shapes. Fry in butter untiJ
sauce,boil bdchamel sauce, Add grated cheese and thick cream to béchamel boil a
thin and pour over the croûtes. cro0tes. Put a slice of down, thin slice down,
sieve, sieve, and over, and and Gruydre on crotte, pour sorne some melted butter
over, Gruyère on each each croûte, a hot oven. brown in a cHAMpIcNoNS AUx
CHAMPIGNONS Croûtes with mushrooms. mushrooms. CROÛTES cRotTEs AUX Cro0tes with are
used used as as a a stuffing for Mushrooms prepared à d la la crème crime are
Mushrooms (q.v.) -brioche croûtes galelle (g.v.) cro0tes in tbe form of of a
galette the fonn - a round open puff pastry. is hollowed The croûte crotte is out,
tart made with hollowed out with puff tart made flastry. The and filJed filled with
Mushrooms it buttered, browned in in the oven, and Mushrooms ~ buttered. (see
MUSHROOMS). la In crème crime (see MUSHROOMS). The croûtes cro0tes are served hot.
la Nantua Fry small rectangles of of bread bread in Croûtes Crofttes à ir la small
rectangles - Fry Bichamel sauce and cover with Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE)
combutter, and Cr ayfish buller but t er (see BUTTER). Add peeled bined bined with
a little Crayfish which more and cover with a a cream cream sauce sauce to which
crayfish tails, tails, and has been added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fine
breadcrayfish been added. fine breadcrayfish butter has quickly melted butter, and
and brown guickly crumbs, pour over a little melted ~rumbs, a very hot oven. the
crayin a can be In be substituted for the oven. Shrimps can fish. with Croûtes
reine th a pur6e purée Crottes à of fried bread wi ir la reine - Cover slices of
cooked à Sprinkle with fine of fowl cooked fine breadcrumbs, crime. Sprinkle d la
crème. and brown in a a hot oven. a little melted pour over a melted butter, and
reine,but as Croûtes Crofttes à d la reine, Croûtes but Saint-Hubert - The same as
Cro0tes Saint-Hubertpur6e of fowl with a a game pur6e replace the purée purée which
has been combined with concentrated game stock. gratinees with Crofites gratinées
with trufHes. truffies. CROÛTES cRoOrEs GRATINÉES Croûtes cRarrNErs AUX tux TRUFFES
TRUFFES - Cut cleaned, peeled truffies in in thick slices, season pepper and dip in
melted slices, and pepper melted butter. Set these slices, with salt and have been
been lightly overlapping, on on slices slices of of bread overlap~ing, bread that
that have cooked In in butter. and pour cooked butter. SprinkJe Sprinkle with
Parmesan cheese and a few drops of over a of melted butter. Brown in a very hot
oven. Cro0tes with trufres. AUx TRUFFES TRUFFES -cRo0res AUX Made like Croûtes
truffles. CROÛTES - Made Crotttes with mushrooms mushroons using truffies prepared
Croûtes prepared à d la crème. crime.

FOR MIXED CROOTES FOR cno0tTs PoUR CROÛTES MIXED ENTREES. ENTRÉES. CROÛTES POUR
eNrRErs MIxrEs are made made of pastry or puff pastry ENTRÉES MIXTES - These are
left-overs, in way as as for a a pastry case. case. Cook the in the the same same
way preparation indicated cases blind, with the in the cases blind, and indicated
in and fill fill with the preparation recipe.
pouR ENTREMETSENTREMETs CROÛTES cnoorBs POUR CROOTES FOR DESSERTS. CROÛTES 293 293

(] inch) Crottes dorées dor6es Croûtes 1 cm. ct - Cut stale brioche into slices I
cold thick. Soak the slices Id sweetened milk flavoured with slices in co vanilla,
then in clarified vanilJa, then in slightly sweetened egg, egg, and cook in (See
below, butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with vanilJa vanilla sugar. butter. sugar.
(See below, Golden croûtes.) croittes.) Fruit croûtes. crofftes. CROÛTES AI-rx
FRUITs cno0rrs AUX Cut a a stale Fruit FRUITS stale savarin - Cut (q.v.) into ({-
inch) slices, slices, place on a a baking (g.~.) into. }-cm. place on baking sheet,
]-cm. Cl-inch) glaze in the oven. and glaze sprinkle wlth with fine sugar, spnnkle
sugar, and of white bread into a conical shape, fry it, and Cut a piece ofwhite
place it a dish. savarrn slices place it in in the the centre centre of a Arrange
the dish. Arrange the savarin slices alternating them with pineapple slices which
round it, alternating which have been cooked in been in syrup. quartered pear and
apple slices arrange slices in syrup Cook guartered syrup and arrange round the
them the cone. cone. Fill this border with with a them round FiJI the inside of
this mixture fruits which which have of fruits been cooked syrup and mix.ture of
have been cooked in in syrup drained. Decorate with with preserved cherries and and
lozenges of draIned. preserved cherries quartered preserved preserved apricots,
angelica, guartered apricots, oranges oranges preserved angelica, in brandy, and
halved halved almonds. almonds. Stick a skewer (attelet) in brandy, and Stick a
decorated with preserved fruits into the central cone. decorated Heat i~ in a a
very moderate oven, and when oven, and when ready Heat ready to to serve, (see
SAUCE) cover wlth with Apricot sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with cover
Apricot sauce kirsch. Serve with more of the the sauce. sauce. Other fruits cooked
in syrup may m?y be used. pnns À crofttes. PAINS A LA Golden croûtes. LA ROMAINE
RoMATNE DITS Drrs AUSSI Aussr CROÛTES Golden cRoOrEs (9 oz.) g. (9 DORÉES -
Ingredients. oonfrs Ingredients. 250 250 g. oz.) stale stale brioche, brioche, -j I
litre (a oz.,} pint,2l g. (4 125 g. (scant piot, 2~ cups) milk, milk, 100 g. oz., I
cup) butter, -125 (4 o2.,1 cop) fine sugar, ~ vanilla bean, 2 eggs. (~oz., ~ cup) I
vanilla Method. Cut the brioche into thick slices and soak them in which has has
been milk which the sugar been boiled with the sugar and and vanilla and left to
cool. Dip the a time, in in the the eggs, which the slices, slices, one at a have a
little fine been beaten with with a fine sugar, and fry in butter. have been fry in
sugar, and When are golden, drain sides are drain the slices and and sprinkle When
both both sides the slices with the rest of of the sugar. Cro0tes with cno0rts AU
lu truroins Croûtes with Madeira. Madeira. CROÛTES MADÈRE Made of - Made savarin
and and pineapple, like like Fruit slices of savarin Fruit croûtes. croittes. Fill
Fill the (q.v.) of fruits cooked en a salpicon salpicon (g.v.) m compote to centre
with a have been sultanas and and raisins that which which have been added added
currants, sultanas lukewarm water. in lukewarm have been washed and and left left
to to swell in (see SAUCE) Apricot sauce sauce (see with Apricot SAUCE) Cover the
croûte Cover the cro0te with of this sauce. sauce, flavoured with Madeira. Madeira.
Serve with a little more more ofthis into l-cm. Montrnorency Cut a a stale Croûtes
- Cut brioche into Crofttes Montmorency stale brioche (|-inch) thick half moons.
and shape them into ct-inch) into half moons. slices, and shape them thick slices,
Sprinkle baking sheet. Sprinkle with sugar and glaze in the oven on a baking of
Frangipane Cover each slice with a thin layer of Frangipane pastry cream and
arrange arrange (see CREAMS) flavoured with cherry brandy, and a crown, crown,
setting setting'them in the them the form fonn of a them very them on on a a dish
dish in close together. cherries Fill FiJI the centre of the crown with a dome of
stoned cherries and drained. a vanilla vanilla syrup syrup and which have been been
cooked cooked in in a which have with preserved cherries, cherries, Decorate the
crown with the border of the the crown almonds. Cover Cover with with redangelica
lozenges lozenges and and halved angelica halved almonds. currantjelly currant
jelly laced with cherry brandy, and serve with a little of this sauce. Croûtes la
normande i lrr Cro0tes à - Glaze slices of stale brioche with
CROOTON CROÛTON
as for sugar, cover coyer with a a thick thick puree purée of apple apple prepared
as for Apple Apple charlotte, (see (see CHARLOTTE) and and finish finish with with
thick cream. Arrange on a dish in the shape of a crown. crown. Fill Fill the centre
centre with quartered apples apples cooked in syrup flavoured f1avoured with
vanilla, flavoured vanilla, and cover coyer with Apple sauce sauce (see SAUCE)
f1avoured with with Calvados. Serve Serve with this sauce. sauce.

CRU a plant or a has grown. This a fruit has This - The soil in which a applies
particularly to vines. porridge made CRUCHADE A kind kind of porridge made with
with maize CRUCHADE maize ftour flour -A great similarity to and milk It has has a
or water. a great and milk or water. It to miliasse miliasse or millat, made in the
south-west and also also to polenta, millat south-west of France; and (See
MILlASSE.) made in the south-east in Italy. (See and in made'in south-east and
MILIASSE.)

CROOTON CROCrTON - End of of a long loaf. loar. Also diced bread bread fried in
butter, butter, servpd serv:ed as an accompaniment accompaniment to soup. soup.
Bread Bread croiitons. croûtons. cRo0roNs CROÛTONS EN pAIN PAIN DE MIE - Slices
Slices cut from a a stale white white loaf loaf which are fried in butter, butter,
grilled, or dried in in the the oven. oyen. Except Except for large large cro0tons
croûtons used used under under game, cro0ton-supports croûton-supports are not
considered edible. Their only r6le rôle is is to to support large large hot or cold
joints joints in order to be able to display the the various various garnishes
gamishes round round them. them. All Ali excessive excessive trimmings trimmings
should be be avoided in these arrangements, which should be be simple in in order
order to to be be effective. effective.

rF KL
nil

Ab #i:;+'i:t ru ffirffiq$ %
,tr-*fl ffi:'#\ fi;'i:,i:f,
flry
firrfr

$il

Food eaten raw. Man Man is CRUDITES eaten raw. is the CRUDITÉS - Food the only only
living creature to foods. Children, however, have to use use cooked foods. have an
Children, however, innate for unripe innate taste taste for for raw raw vegetables
and and even even for unripe fruit, fruit, part of which indicates that that raw
food food should be be an essential part man's diet. die!. The indigestibility of
crudités The is caused cruditds is caused by by the the way way they they grated,
are are sometimes sometimes presented; served served finely finely chopped chopped
or or grated, weil, they are perfectly digestible. and chewed well, pleasant to eat
raw, or are only really Sorne foods are not pleasant Some when they they are are
cooked. edible when instance, nearly edible cooked. Meat, Meat, for for instance,
needs to to be be masked masked in in various ways always needs in order ways in
order to to be people even eaten raw, and is distasteful to to many people even
then. then. On never have the a cooked oyster can flavour the other hand, a can
never the f1avour of an uncooked one, and this holds holds good for salads of
salads and fruit. Gastronomes can see another advantage advantage in crudités.
cruditis. Since their food food value value is is generally minimal, they they are
their are useful useful for allaying the the first first pangs pangs of of hunger
hunger without without spoiling allaying spoiling the appreciation of the remainder
remainder of the meal; on the contrary, appreciation contrary, they rather rather
enhance the main meal. Thus the perils of overgood food so often often menace those
those who who love good food are eating that so avoided.
(V.S. Castor set). rvrfNacinn CRUET STAND (U.S. set). MÉNAGÈRE Table-set - Table-
set of bottles and and jars of of glass, porcelain or metal, met al, set consisting
of base. in a base. bread which which has been been baked baked hard hard in the
oyen bread oven and is intended CRUSH. EcusrR ÉCRASER - To flatten f1atten and
break aromatic aromatic seeds, CRUSH. seeds. or

ffire

@
Bread cro0tons croûtons Bread

for breadcrumbs.
CRUSTACÉS - Animals, Animais, usually usually aquatic, CRUSTACEANS. cnusucfs with a
a hard, hard, shelly shelly crust crust and and jointed jointed extremities.
extremities. Some Sorne with

species are used used in cooking, cooking, e.g. crabs, crayfish, lobsters,
lobsters, etc. species Croûtons for for garnishes. garnishes. cRo0roNs CROÛTONS
pouR POUR cARNrruREs GARNITURES Crottons Croûtons made made of ofwhite bread cut
cut in in different different ways, ways, often often in in Cro0tons white bread
the form form ofhearts. of hearts. They They are are cooked cooked in in oil or or
butter butter and are are the used to to garnish gamish various various dishes
dishes which which are are presented presented in in sauce, sauce, used as
blanquette blanquette de de veau, veau, civet, civet, chicken chicken fricassie,
fricassée, chicken chicken su ch as such Croûtons used used to to garnish garnish
salmis salmis are are usually usually Marengo, salmis. salmis. Crofitons Marengo,
àgratinforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). CrotCroûcovered with with ri covered
gratinforcemeat (see tons cut cut in in the the form form of ofdents dents de de
loup loup (wolves'teeth) (wolves' teeth) are are used used to to tons garnish
garnish spinach spinach and and other other vegetable vegetable dishes. dishes.
Those Those cut in in shapes are are used used for for fish fish prepared prepared
d à la la normande. normande. lozenge shapes lozenge Crofitons for for scrambled
scrambled eggs eggs or or omeleffes. omelettes. cnoOrous CROÛTONS poun POUR
Crottons OEUFS BRounr.Es BROUILLÉS ou OU oMELETTE OMELETTE - These These are are
made made of of diced diced oEurs white bread bread fried fried in in butter butter
and and added added to to scrambled scrambled egg egg or or white omelettes.
omelettes. CROW. consr,{u-The CORBEAU - The meat meat of ofthis bird, except except
when when young, young, CROW. this bird, is tough tough and and fibrous. fibrous.
Nevertheless, Nevertheless, in in many many forest forest regions regions is where
crows crows abound, abound, they they are are used used to to make make a a poor
poor soup. soup. where Cuniset-Carnot, in in his his Vie Vie aux aux champs,
champs, gives gives a a humorous humorous Cuniset-Carnot, recipe for for cooking
cooking a a crow. crow. 'Make 'Make a a good good pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu. On On the
the recipe Jid of of the the pot pot put put a a plucked plucked crow. crow. After
After 5 5 or or 6 6 reversed lid reversed hours of of gentle gentle cooking,
cooking, throw throw the the crow crow on on the the fire fire and and hours enjoy
the the pot-au-feu.' pot-au-feu.' enjoy CROWN. couRoNNE COURONNE - Method Method of
of dressing dressing a a dish dish in in the the CROWN. fonn of of a a crown crown
or or ring. ring. Brioche Brioche en en couronne couronne is is a a type type of of
form dough-cake made made in in this this shape. shape. dough-cake CROWN-PIGEON
(Squab). (Squab). couRA GOURA - This is cooked cooked in in the the CROWN-PIGEON -
This is sarne way way as as the the common corn mon pigeon, pigeon, or or squab.
squab. same 294 294
-

For the various various dishes made with these different shellfish For shellfish
see see recipes under their names. recipes SheJlfish have a firm, close-grained
close-grained flesh ftesh and an agreeable agreeable Shellfish taste, but but are
not easy to digest. digest. They have a a reputation as as taste, very strong
condiments aphrodisiacs, no doubt due to the very which they they are often
flavoured. f1avoured. with which

A crustac€an: cruslacean: crab crab A

CUCUMBER. coNconnns CONCOMBRE - Genus of of plants plants belonging belonging to

CUCUMBER. the gourd gourd family, family, with with large large elongated elongated
fruits. fruits. Cucumbers the originated in in the the north-west north-west of of
India, where where they they have have been been originated cultivated in Hindustan
Hindustan for three three thousand thousand years. They also cultivated grow in in
a a wild wild state. state. There are are a a large number number of of species,
species, grow white or or green, green, with with smooth smooth or or rough rough
skin, skin, early early or or late laIe white
CULINARY METHODS METHODS CULINARY
fruiting. They are watery and little nutritive are very very watery and contain
contain !ittle value. Cucumbers U',", UHI L''"'' 0 are eaten raw in sa lads and are
sometimes salads sometimes cooked. When they are are to to be cooked the rather
bitter bitter juice should be removed by salting and pressing before before
se2lsolnmg, seasoning. ___ :__ andC, VitaminsA it is indigestible, Cucumber
contains ,r:,,_~ and C, but Itlsmdllge:stIlble, digestions. and should only be
eaten by those with good digestions. in butter. butter. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs AU AU
BEURRE BEURRE Peel the Cucumbers in - Peel cucumbers, eut cut into pieces, blanch
and drain. drain. Season, cucumbers, Season, and a buttered saut6 cook them slowly
in a sauté pan with the lid on. A LA Cucumberc à ir la crème. crCme. CONCOMBRES
coNcoMBREs À n CRÈME cniw -- Prepare Prepare Cucumbers as for for Cucumbers in
butter. When the cucumbers as When they are in butter. TnrpP'_I'lIl':l,rTprc three-
quarters cooked coyer cover with with boiling cream, cream, and and finish cooking.
This This dish also be prepared by moistening the dish can can also (see SAUCE). a
Cream cucumbers with a Crearn sauce (see SAUCE). cucUlmb'ers (hors-d'auwe).
CONCOMBRES i la dijonnaise dijonnaise (hors-d'œuvre). coNcoMBREs À Cucumbers à LA
DlJONNAISE DIJoNNATsE into slices, LA slices, then - Cut two green cucumbers into
cut the slices into quarters. Boil for 2 minutes in salted water vinegar have to
which a few drops ofwine have been added. Drain, of wine vinegar a colander under a
a cold cold tap, drain again, again, then put them in a for 12 2 tablespoons simmer
for 12 minutes minutes in a casserole with with 2 simmer in a (3 tablespoons) olive
pinch of I tablespoon vinegar, a a pinch olive oil, oil, 1 (3 salt and and a a
pinch of paprika. Before serving serving add 2 teaspoons salt teaspoons Dijon
mustard and and mix weil. well. pARgratin. CONCOMBRES AU PARCucumbers au au gratin.
coNcoMBREs GRATINÉS cn,qrnss AU Cucumbers MESAN lightly, and MESAN into slices,
blanch lightly, the cucumbers into - Cut the in butter. Put the a buttered gratin
dish dish cook them in slices in a the slices grated Parmesan, sprinkled with
Parmesan, sprinkle sprinkle with more sprinkled with grated Parmesan, pour over
sorne and brown in the some melted butter, Parmesan, butter, and oyen. oven. (hors-
d'euwe). CONCOMBRES i ]a A LA la grecque (hors-d'œuvre). eoNcoMBREs À Cucumbers à a
large cucumber and and cook cook in in a a courtcREceLJE GRECQUE - Quarter a
bouillon made l| cups) cups) water, water, 1 I dl. 3 dl. (+ pint, with 3 dl. (6
made with pint, l} bouillon tablespoons, scant -t lemon, a bouquet of of Iemon, the
juice of tablespoons, * cup) oil, the pinch of coriander, celery, fennel, fennel,
thyme, and a a good pinch coriander, salt celery, thyme, and pepper. and pepper.
Boil for 8 minutes. Drain Drain the cucumbers, cucumbers. boil boil down down the
Boil liquor in in which which they have been half, cool, cool, and liquor they have
been cooked to to half, pour it over the cucumbers. cucumbers. Keep in a a cool
place and and serve cold. jus. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs AU AU JUS Prepare in in the
Cucumbers au JUs au jus. - Prepare few tablespoons tablespoons as Cucumbers in
butter, adding a few same way as concentrated veal stock when cooked. cooked.
concentrated Prepare in the MoRNAy Cucumbers Mornay. Mornay. CONCOMBRES NA Y
coNcoMBREs MOR - Prepare cucumber pieces in same way as Cucumbers in butter. Put
the cucumber a gratin dish dish lined with Mornay a Mornay sauce lined with sauce
(see SAUCE). Pour over them, sprinkle with grated cheese, pour over more sauce over
oven. a little butter, and brown in the oyen. puRfE DE pur6e. PURÉE Peel two two
large DE CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs Cucumber Cucumber purée. - Peel lengthways and
remove remove the seeds. Cut cucumbers, them lengthways cucumbers, split them into
in butter. into slices and and simmer in butter. Add half their quantity of with
consommé consomm6 or Moisten with potatoes, cut into quarters. Moisten cut into
cucumbers and Sieve the the cucumbers drain. Sieve water, until soft, drain. water,
boil boil until pur6e into a pan over low heat. Add a potatoes, and put this purée
mixture few teaspoons butter butter and thick cream, and work the mixture with a
wooden spoon until it is smooth. Peel the coNcoMBREs the cuCucumber DE CONCOMBRF--S
slrnDr DE Cucumber salad. SALADE - Peel lengthwise, remove the seeds, and cumbers,
halflengthwise, cumbers, split them in half a cloth, cloth, sprinkle sprinkle on a
slice flesh finely. finely. Spread the slices on slice the flesh for 30 minutes.
Drain, season season with salt, with with salt and and leave for pepper, vinegar,
oil and chopped chopped chervil. chervil. pepper, wth vinaigrette sauce The The
cucumbers cucumbers can can be be seasoned seasoned with without first being
salted. cucumbers coNcoMBREs FARcIs Peel cucumbers Stuffed cucumbers. CONCOMBRES
FARCIS - Peel cm. (2 inches) thick. Boil in salted water and cut into slices 5 cm.
of each slice. for 5 minutes. Drain, and scoop a hollow out of (q.v.) with (3
tablespoons) duxelles duxelles (q.v.) Mix 2. Mix 2. tablespoons (3 (9 oz.) g. (9
pork forcemeat. Add I tablespoon 250 g. 250 Add 1 oz.) veal veal or or pork (2 oz.,
parsley, 50 g. (2 ctrp'S chopped chopped onion which 50 g. oz, t chopped parsley, I
cup)
'V ,A,

has in butter and cooled. Fil1 Fill the scooped-out has been cooked in cucumbers
with the stuffing. cucumbers Line the bottom of a sauté saut6 pan with bacon rinds,
slices of and a bouquet garni (q.v.). Set the cucu cucumcarrots and onion and mbers
on this foundation and add enough slightly salted stock cucumbers. Bring to to
reach reach two-thirds up the sides sides of the cucumbers. cucumbers. coyer cover
the the boil. Put a buttered sheet sheet over the cucumbers, oven for 35 minutes.
pan, and cook slowly in the oyen cooking liquor and and boil down down rapidly to
Strain the cooking to 2 dl. (| pint, pint, scant cup). Thicken Thicken slightly
with a a brown sauce (t sauce or (see BUTTER), pour over Kneaded butter with
Kneaded butter (see and pour with BUTTER), and over the cucumbers when serving.
cucumbers serving. expression once used used to indicate CUIRE VERT - Colourful
expression to what degree degree certain meats should be cooked to keep them (tris
saignantes). saignantes). Nowadays the expression caire bleu. rare (très expressi
on is cuire

CUISINE CUISINE - See COOKING. CUISINE MINCEUR CUISINE MINCEUR - A new method of
French cooking. Based on principles, it on the classic French the classic French
principles, Based it attempts attempts to maintain main tain the the characteristic
subtle ftavors flavors without m(;]u1djrlg including the highly caloric ingredients
such as butter, cream, cream, oil, and limited quantities. The success of this
starches except in very limited ofcontroversy. venture is a subject of controversy.
CUISSON has several meanings term has Cl.JISSON meanings in French. - This term
ofany offood. 1. The cooking of any kind of food. Cooking 2. Coo king time. 3.
Liquid Liquid IJsed of certain certain foodstuffs foodstuffs for used in the
cooking cooking of 3. in the example, cuisson calves'heads. cuisson of mushrooms,
cuisson caisson of calves' example, heads. In clear soup. this context the word
means stock or c1ear
See HAUNCH. CUISSOT - See

anr CULINAIRE cULINATRE CULINARY ART. ART 'Cookery is an old art,' -'Cookery said
the marquis de Cussy. 'It goes back to Adam.' closely bound with the history of
man. The culinary art is c10sely asks: 'Does not in fact fact embrace Brillat-
Savarin asks: not this this art in embrace aIl all branches of human not the art of
branches of human activity? activity? Is Is not the art of feeding oneself one of
the primordial needs of man?' oneself For a short short history ofcookery see the
entry history ofcookery entry on COOKING. COOKING.
cULINAIRES CULINARY MÉTHODES CULlNAIRES Ail METHODS. ufrsoDEs CULINARY METHODS. -
All compliculinary operations, from the simplest to to the most compliIt is rules.
It cated, be carried out according to to precise rules. cated, must be advisable to
adhere scrupulously to these principles in order preparation of simple as as well
well as in the to to achieve achieve success the preparation success in complex
dishes. different methods The methods of The culinary culinary rules rules
governing the the different order. cooking cooking foodstuffs are listed below in
alphabetical arder. cooking DEs VIANDES Method of of cooking Braising meat.
BRAISAGE DES - Method but it mutton, but meat chiefly used for red meats meats such
as beef and mutton, meatchiefty beefand used for white meats such as lamb and veal.
also be used veal. By can also slightly modifying the procedure it can also be used
slightly used for pork and venison. and Large Large poultry is also braised,
braised, and the method may be used although, in fact, fish is stewed with a very
little for large fish although, liquid rather than braised in the strict sense of
the word. interlarded before before being braised; that Red meat should be
interlarded is, thick lardoons, seasoned with spices, thick lardoons, seasoned with
spices, moistened with is, parsley are threaded with chopped brandy and sprinkled
with threaded into chopped parsley it with a larding needle. Large cuts of meat and
venison are steeped steeped in a marinade (q.v.) for a a time before braising and
and then moistened with a (q.v.) stockpot or braising stock prepared in advance, or
from the stockpot even with with water. red wine, marinade and even White or the
marinade wine. the water. White or red aromatic vegetables of the marinade should
be added to the aromatic stock. Instructions for braising large cu meat are given
under cuts of mea Instructions ts of tare BEEF. 295 295
CULINARY CULINARY METHODS METHODS
Garnishes Garnishes for for braised meat. Meat is usually usually braised d à /a la
bourgeoise, bourgeoise, with with carrots carrots and onions added towards towards
the end of cooking. Braised cuts cuts can can also also be be served served with
with vegetables vegetables braised braised in in stock, stock, stuffed vegetables,
vegetables, macaroni macaroni prepared in different different ways, risotto, etc.
Braising Braising white white meat. meat. Strictly speaking, speaking, cuts cuts of
of white meat, meat. veal veal in in particular, particular, should be be pot pot
roasted roasted rather rather than braised. braised. However, However, cuts cuts of
of white white meat meat can be be braised braised in the the same same way as as
red red meat, meat, but but using using very very little little stock. stock. (See
(See below Pol Pot

meat meat is is laid upon upon it or or under under it. il. The food to be be
grilled must be basted basted with clarified c1arified butter, oil or fat, and and
seasoned. seasoned. Meat should be be gently flattened fiattened and trimmed
trimmed before before cooking. cooking. Fish should be be scored with a knife,
knife. well weil coated coated with butter and oil, oil, and seasoned. seasoned.
Fish Fish which which is rather rather dry has has a tendency tendency

roasting.) Braisi4g Braising large large poultry. poultry. BRAISAGE BRAISAGE DEs
DES cRossEs GROSSES VoLAILLES VOLAILLES Large Large poultry poul try is is usually
usually pot pot roasted roasted rather ra ther than braised. braised. Use Use very
very little little stock stock in in cooking. cooking. Ctarifyiry Oarifying and
enrichilry enriching soups, soups, stocks stocks and and jellies. jellies.
cLARIFTCLARIFIcATroN CA TION DES DES BourLLoNS, BOUILLONS, FoNDS FONDS Er ET crrfss
GELÉES - The The purpose purpose of of this operation operation is is to to make
make soups, soups, stocks stocks and and jellies jellies clearer c1earer and
tastier. tastier. This This applies applies to to sweet sweet jellies jellies as as
well well as as to fish fish and meat meat stocks. stocks. After After
clarification, clarification, and enriching enriching with with chopped lean lean
beef beef and egg egg white, white, the the soup soup is is known known as
consomm6. consommé. Allow Allow 250 250 to to 350 350 g. g. (9 to to 12 12 oz.)
oz.) chopped lean lean beef beef to to every every litre litre (scant (scant quart,
quart, generous generous quart) quart) stock stock to to ensure ensure adequate
adequate clarification. clarification. For For jelly jelly stocks, stocks, which
are are very very concentrated concentrated in in themselves, themselves, 100 100
to 150 150 g. g. (4 (4 to to 5 oz.) oz.) per per litre litre (scant quart, quart,
generous generous quart) quart) is is required. required. Where Where appropriate
appropriate chopped chopped poultry poultry may may be be used used instead instead
of of chopped chopped beef. beef. A A small small quantity quantity of of egg egg
white white and and finely finely diced diced vegetables vegetables should should
be be used. used. When When clarifying c1arifying sweet sweet jellies jellies (made
(made with with fruit fruit and and wine wine or or liqueur) liqueur) egg egg white
white only only is is used. used. Clarified Clarified consomm6 consommé and and
jellies jellies of of various various kinds kinds must must be be strained strained
after after boiling. boiling. Wet Wet and and wring wring out out a a cloth cloth
of of closely c10sely woven woven material. material. Fix Fix it to to the the four
four legs legs of of an an upturned upturned stool. stool. Under U nder this this
cloth cloth place place a a bowl bowl large large enough enough to to take take all
ail of of the the stock. stock. Skim Skim off off the the fat, fat, then then pour
pour the the stock stock into into this this imimprovised strainer. For For smaller
smaller amounts, amounts, lay lay the the cloth c10th on on top top provised
strainer. of of a a bowl bowl and and lift lift up up the the corners. corners.
Deepfrying. Deep-frying. FRrruRE FRITURE -. Method Method of of cooking cooking
used used a a great great deal deal in in household household kitchens. kitchens.
Fried Fried foods, foods, well well prepared, prepared, are are much much prized
prized by by gastronomes. gastronomes. (See (See DEEP-FRYING.) DEEP-FRYING.)
GratinGratin - Name Name given given to to dishes dishes which, which, after after
being being subjected subjected to to intense intense heat heat in in the the oven
oyen or or under under the the grill, grill, acquire acquire a a crisp, crisp,
golden-brown golden-brown crust. crust. To To assist assist in in the the formation
formation of of this this crust, crust, sprinkle sprinkle the the food food either
either with with fresh fresh or or lightly lightly toasted toasted breadbreadcrumbs
crumbs or or with with grated grated cheese, cheese, preferably preferably
Parmesan, Parmesan, and and pour pour on on melted melted butter. butter. Gratins
Gratins can can be be made made with with either either raw raw or or cooked cooked
food. food. The The most most common common raw raw gratins gratins are are made
made of of fish fish covered covered with with Duxelles Duxel/es sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE.) SAUCE.) A A recipe recipe for for cooking cooking raw raw vegetables
vegetables au au gratin gratin is is given given under under Potatoes Potatoes d à
la la dauphinoise dauphinoise (see (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). Fish Fish prepared
prepared with with a a white white gratin gratin sauce sauce are poachd poached in
in concentrated concentrated fish fish stock, stock, drained, drained, covered
covered with with white white sauce, sauce, sprinkled sprinkled with with cheese
chee se or or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned browned quickly quickly in
When browning browning a a gratin gratin the the dish dish should should be be set
set on on in the the oven. oyen. When a a wire wire tray tray separating separating
it it from from the the oven oyen shelf, shelf, or or in in a a dish dish
halfhalffull full of of hot hot water. water. This This prevents prevents the the
fats fats from from separating separating and and the the sauce sauce from from
spoiling. spoiling. Grilling Grj]]ing (U.S. (V.S. broiling). broiling). cnnrlor
GRILLADE - Grilling, GriUing, like like roasting, roasting, is is a a method method
of ofcooking cooking by by intense intense heat, heat, the the nourishing
nourishing juices juices being being sealed sealed into into the the meat meat by
by the the crust crust formed formed on on the the surface. surface. The The fuel
fuel traditionally traditionally used used for for grilling grilling in in France
France is is small small charcoal charcoal (known (known as as braise'). braise).
The The charcoal, charcoal, when when thoroughly thoroughly alight, alight, is is
spread spread out out to to form form a a bed bed in in a a grille grille pan pan
with with a a wellwellregulated regulated draught. draught. This This bed bed of of
charcoal charcoal varies varies in in depth depth according according to to the the
size size and and kind kind of of meat meat to to be be grilled. grilled.
NowaNowadays days there there are are also also gas gas and and electric electric
grills, grills, both both of of which which are are very very good good and and
extremely extremely practical. practical. The Thegrill grill must must be be
scrupulously scrupulously clean, c1ean, and and heated heated before before the the
296 296

to to stick stick to to the the bars bars of the the grill, grill, and and should
should therefore therefore be floured fioured before before being being coated with
butter butter or oil. This will form a a covering covering which which will will
enable enable the the fish fish to to cook cook without without becoming becoming
too dry. Turn grilling meat meat or fish over once once or twice twice during
during cooking, cooking, and baste baste frequently frequently with the the butter
butter or oil, using using a brush. Grilled food food is is ready ready when when
it it resists resists pressure pressure if if lightly lightly touched with the
fingertip. Tiny pinkish droplets droplets appearing on the browned surface surface
are another another indication indication that it is fully cooked. Grilled white
white meat meat should be be less less browned browned than red meat meat and and a
less less intense heat heat should should be be used. used. Grill fish fish at
moderate moderate heat, heat, and baste baste frequently. frequently. Grill poultry
poultry first if if it it is to be be cooked in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. When
three-parts three-parts cooked, cover coyer with butter butter or oil and roll in
the the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs as as indicated indicated for Chicken d à la diable
isee (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN).

Interlarding Interlarding a a round round piece piece ofmeat of m~at

Interlarding Interlarding meat meat. pteulcE PIQUAGE DES DES vrANDEs VIANDES .-
Certain Certain cuts cuts of of meat, meat, such such as as fillet fillet of of
beef, beef, leg leg of of veal, veal, etc., etc., are are interlarded interlarded
with lardoons. [n with best best pork pork fat fat cut cut into into small
smalliardoons. In the the same same way, way, poultry, poultry, veal veal
sweetbreads, sweetbreads, veal veal chops chops and and large large fish fish such
such as as lardoons. carp, carp, sturgeon, sturgeon, etc. etc. are are interlarded
interlarded with with very very small smalllardoons. Interlarding lnterlarding a
afillet fil/et of of beef. beef Skin Skin the the meat meat and and remove remove
all aIl tendons. Using Using a a larding larding needle needle threaded threaded
with with a a lardoon, lardoon, tendons. thread it it into into the the fillet,
fillet, following following the the grain grain of of the the meat. meat. The The
thread depth of of the the stitch stitch is is determined determined by by the the
length length of of the the lardoon. lardoon. depth Each lardoon lardoon should
should project project 2 2 cm. (| (J inch) inch) on on either either side. side.
Each Thread Thread the the second second row row of of lardoons lardoons through
through the the meat, meat, 2 cm. alternating alternating them them with with the
the first, first, at at a a distance distance of of2 cm. (f (~ inch) inch) making
making sure sure that that the the lardoons lardoons always always project project
over over the the meat. meat. Keeping the the spacing spacing even, even, thread
thread as as many many double double rows rows of of Keeping lardoons into into the
the meat meat as as its its length length requires. requires. After After the the
fillet fillet is is lardoons completely interlarded, interlarded, trim trim the the
lardoons lardoons so so that that the the ends ends are are completely of equal
equal length. length. Tie Tie the the fillet fillet crosswise crosswise to to keep
keep it it round round in in of if it it to to be be roasted roasted in in the the
oven, oyen, in in a a shape. Put Put it it on on a a spit spit or, or, if shape.
roasting roasting tin tin fitted fitted with with a a grid. grid. lnterlarding a a
fricandeau fricandeau or or leg leg of of veal. veal. Trim Trim the the joint joint
as as Interlarding indicated indicated under under VEAL. VEAL. Interlard Interlard
as as for for fillet fillet of of beef. beef. lnterlardin~ saddle saddle of of
mutton mullon or or roebuck, roebuck, baron baron of of hare, hare, Interlarding of
venison, venison, etc. etc. Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated above, above,
adapting adapting haunch of haunch the thickness thickness of of the the lardoons
lardoons to to the the size size of of the the meat. meaL the Interlarding
lnterlarding small smal/ cuts cuts of ofmeat. Lardoons must must be be cut cut very
very meat. Lardoons cuts and and a a finer finer needle needle should should be be
used. used. Small Small fine for for small small cuts fine
METHODS CULINARY CULINARY METHODS
round round portions portions of of meat meat may may be be interlarded interJarded
by threading threading the lardoons Jardoons into in to them them in in the form
foon of of a rosette. rosette. This method method can also also be be used used
with with beef beef and muttonfilets muttonfilets mignons, and for veal
sweetbreads. These last, last, before before being interlarded, interlarded, must
must be sweetbreads. under running soaked in in water, water, blanched, blanched,
cooled cooledunder running water, and soaked Jeft to to get quite cold coJd under
under a weight. weight. left Interlarding poultry pouJtry and game. PIQUAGE PIQUAGE
DE DE voLAILLES VOLAILLES ET Interlardirg DU DU GTBIER GIBIER - Only large poultry
poultry for for braising is is interlarded. interJarded. Singe with with a hot hot
flame fl.ame the part part of of the breast breast to be be interlarded interlarded
Singe or dip dip it in boiling water to make the flesh fl.esh firm. or Only old
game for braising, such as partridge, partridge, pheasant pheasant or Only hazel-
grouse, is is interlarded. interlarded. Proceed Proceed as as for for poultry,
poultry, using hazel-grouse, lardoons. very small smaJJ lardoons. POCHAGE -
Poaching is is a a gentle simmering in Poaching. pocHAcE on the The amount amount
of water or stock used depends on liquid. The food to be be poached. poached. food
as eggs well as Meat, poultry pouJtry and fish can all aJJ be poached, poached, as
weJJ in are poached and meat balls, balls, Mousses Mousses and poached in and and
mousselines are little stock. a bain-marie. Sweetbreads Sweetbreads are poached
poached in a very Jittle abain-marie. with vegetables, or in poached in a white
stock stock with Red meat is poached lamb à d Leg of of lamb boiling salt water, as
is customary with Leg boiling as is customary with salt water, l'anglaise (see
LAMB). White meat is is seldom poached. But seldom poached. I'anglaise term
'poaching' may be applied to the method of cooking the term'poaching'may preoaring
lamb and veal en blanquette. used in preparing stock, Large poultry to be poached
is put into cold white stock, as and seasoned seasoned as the liquid liquid brought
to boil, skimmed. skimmed, and to the the boil, the very (q.v.).The with pot-au-feu
(q.v.). The poultry poultry is is then simmered very then simmered in the be
stuffed can be stuffed or for poaching can the stock. Poultry for slowly in
lardoons or or not, and trussed. It be larded with best best lardoons larded with
It can can be not. and trussed. the into the studded cut into ham, tongue tongue or
truffies cut with pieces of ham, studded with shape pegs. To protect the while
cooking, To protect the breast breast wrule little pegs. shape of !ittle is poultry
should be barded. poultry is whether the the poultry To test poultry barded. To
test whether should be prick the thigh. When thejuice out is white, the juice which
runs out ready, prick the bird is and untruss untruss the drain and After cooking,
cooking, drain is cooked. cooked. After the bird poultry and fried bread, Serve on
on fried poultry barding. Serve and remove remove the the barding. surrounded with
an appropriate garnish. The The stock, strained stock, strained appropriate
garnish. and boiled down to be added to to the the sauce sauce to down and and
added is boiled and skimmed, is served the dish. served with the Large fish can be
and moistened moistened slices, and whole or in slices, be poached whole are with
concentrated fish are Thick s!ices slices of of fish fish stock stock (fumet).
Truck concentrated fish (brill, whiting, prepared sole, whiting, sole, fish (briIl,
prepared in way. Fillets of of fish in the the same same way. turbot, etc.) to be
poached are dish, in a a buttered are put in buttered baking dish, seasoned,
concentrated few tablespoons with a a few tablespoons concentrated moistened with
seasoned, moistened fish oven. in the and cooked the oyen. fish stock cooked in
stock and Poached eggs which a a water to to which salt water in boiling salt are
cooked cooked in eggs are few vinegar have added. have been been added. few drops
of ofvinegar pan, covered Fish or with covered with into a a buttered are put into
buttered pan, or meat balls are boi!ing and very very slowly simmered. slowly
simmered. salt water and boiling salt Food principle, such as such as poached on
bain-marie principle, on the the bain-marie Food poached mousses. in puddings,
etc., are stood stood in etc., are moulds, puddings, mousses, mousselines,
mousselines, moulds, baking in a a and cooked cooked in pans half full of hot
water, water, and of hot half full baking tins tins or or pans very very slow oven.
slow oyen. po6llcn - Slow Pot a using a steam, using by steam, Slow cooking cooking
by Pot roasting. roasting. POÊLAGE· casserole is cooked with food is cooked with
The food lid. The fitting Iid. with a a tightly casserole with tightly fitting
butter have been been which have with vegetables vegetables which or fat, fat,
together together with butter or slowly poultry or lish or nsh meat, poultry Pot-
roasted meat, in butter. butter. Pot-roasted slowly cooked cooked in must be ready,
take take When ready, frequently basted during cooking. cooking. When be frequently
basted during it (q.v.). in a a cocotte cocotte (q.v.). a dish dish or or in and
serve serve on on a it out of the the casserole casserole and out of Remove for
boil for fat, add add wine wine or or stock, stock, boil cooking fat, Remove most
most of of the the cooking a pour the dish. over the the dish. the liquor liquor
over few moments, moments, strain, and pour a few strain, and Pot pot Brown meat
meat or or fish fish to to be be pot Pot roasting roasting à Ia Matignon. Matignon.
Brown d la roasted a truck layer of of Matignon Matignon Cover with with a lightly
in in butter. thick layer roasted lightly butter. Coyer (q.v.) paper (q.v.) or in
buttered Wrap in buttered paper root vegetables. vegetables. Wrap or fondue of root
fondue of and with surround with After cooking, cooking, unwrap, unwrap, surround
oven. After and cook cook in in the the oyen. garnishes which the the garnishes and
pour on stock to to which on the the strained strained stock and pour matignon
added. matignon has has been been added. Braising lining aa also be carried out out
by by Iining can also be carried Braising à it la la matignon matignon can braising
placing pan with and placing vegetables and root vegetables with thefondue of root
braising pan the fondue of
297 297

with butter, on top. top. the meat, meat, fish or poultry, poultry, liberally
liberally basted with butter, on of recipes for and recipes Ragotts Ragoûts -
Details Details and for the preparation preparation of RAGOUT. ragofit ragoût
dishes are to be found under RAGOÛT. meat, in the cooking cooking of of meat,
n6rrsslcE Roasting. Roasting. RÔTISSAGE - This is is used used in game, large fish
and poultry, shellfish. and shellfish. poultry, game,

internal is that the internai roasting is that the The distinctive feature of
roasting feature of The

juices Reculet culinaires Reculet juices are preserved. preserved. lnhis In his
Principes Principes et lois culinaires defines the roasting process: detines
process: of transmisworks by concentration works 'Cooking by by concentration by
means of means of insinuainsinuaof boiling, by means as in the case of sion and
not, no t, as in the boiIing, by

ponderable or or whether ponderable agent, whether The concentrating concentrating

agent, tion. tion. The
The first first and envelops the substance. The imponderable, imponderable, attacks
and the driven inwards towards the heated, the juices coating is is heated, juices
are driven heat of The heat of the forms on on the the surface. The centre. and and
the the crust forms centre, juices sealed in in The juices second. The transmitted
to the second. first coating is transmitted fust tissues, by the outer coating,
being unable to escape from the tissues, powerfully to to the and contribute
contribute powerfully heat themselves, and generate heat cooking of the the whole.'
cooking action of of a a naked by the the action roasting: by two ways of roasting:
There are two Spit roasts in the the oyen. oven. Spit by radiant heat in flame on
on the spit; or by fl.ame oven roasts because substances placed before are superior
to oyen an in an cooked in those cooked evaporate freely whereas those an open fire
can evaporate an by the the altered by and radically radically altered are
enveloped enveloped and enclosed oyen oven are enclosed produced. However, roasts
are usually cooked cooked in in However, roasts are usually vapour produced. vapour
well These, being being extremely extremely weil gas or ovens. These, or electric
electric ovens. coal, gas coal, good results, and they do sometimes sometimes they
do produce good results, and designed, produce designed, an automatic automatic
spit. spit. incorporate an incorporate

roasted ready10 to be be oyen oven roasted Piece of ofbeef Piece beef ready

The intensity intensity of of the the lu FOUR FouR -- The ndrrs AU oven. RÔTIS
Roasting Roastiry in in tbe the oven. When roast. Wh the suit the the roast.
regulated to to suit cooking en the heat must must be be regulated cooking heat
fuel lowered. With With aa soJid solid fuel must be heat must be lowered. crust is
formed, formed, the the heat crust is part of cooler part of the the moved to to aa
cooler roast should should be be moved cooker, cooker, the the roast pan if if
necessary. necessary. pan stood in another another pan oyen stood in and the
roasting pan oven and the roasting of raised above above the the bottom bottom of
be raised roasts to It for oyen to be It is is essential oven roasts essential for
be grid. Basting roasts should should be pan on Basting of of oyen oven roasts the
a grid. on a roasting pan the roasting (see below). below). carried for spit roasts
(see as for spit roasts carried out out as knowingwhen knack of of knowing It when
long to acquire the the knack not take to acquire It does does not take long in the
instructions in the the instructions follow the the If in in doubt, doubt, foJlow
is ready. ready. If roast is the roast (see beIow), roasts (see below), and and
section section on on Average Average cooking cooking time time for for l'oasts
look indications. look for for the following indications. the following (beef and
perfectly cooked, is perfectly cooked, aa mutton) is When and mutton) red meat meat
(beef When red pink blood. In the caseof of pale pink thecase small prick will it
exude exude pale blood. In will make make it small prick juice is pork) the
iscolourless. Poultry (veal, lamb, white colourless. Poultry lamb, pork) the juice
meat (veal, white meat pure whitejuice plate, pure white juice is if tilted on on
aa plate, perfectly cooked when, iftilted is perfectly cooked when, reddish areany
any reddish long as pours As long as there there are pours out body. As out of of
the the body. ground and ground Winged and traces, poultry is not fully fully
cooked. cooked. Winged is not traces, the the poultry juice. It pinkish juice. It
should be game should be game should, asaa rule, rule, exude exude aa pinkish
should, as tested redmeat. meat. wav as asred same way in the tested in the same
CULINARY METHODS METHODS CULINARY
game snoliid Poultry and and game snould be be trussed trussed and and bardee!,
interbarded, or or interPoultry purpose of larded with with besl lardoons. The best
lardoons. The purpose pork of barding with with pork larded fat or fat bacon
protect the or fat parts of bacon is is 10 to proteet the delicate delicate parts
of the the breast breast fat from the intensity of the intensity heat, and of the
the heat, and also also to impregnate the to impregnale the from flesh wilh with
fal fat 10 make it to make it more more tender. Barding is is done tender. Barding
done by by Resh tying the the fat fat 10 to the with string. the bird bird with
string. After After cooking, cooking, the fat is is the fat tying removed. removed.
Large cuts cuts of meat are of meat are sometimes sometimes barded. barded. More
More often, often, the the Large parts of delicate parts protected with of these
these cuts cuts are are protected with well-flattened well-flattened delicate
pieces of of beef beef or or veal veal fat. fat. pieces Most roasts roasts should
should be be served served direct)y directly they they an~ are removed removed Most
from the the spit spit or or the For red the aven. oven. For red meat, meat,
however, however, it it is is from advisable to it out to take take it out of of
the the oven oven or or off off the the spit spit a a few few advisable quite
ready, minutes before it is before it is quite ready, and keep it and to to keep it
hot hot in in front of of minutes the open it is until it is ready ready to open
oven oven until to be be served. served. While it it is is standstandthe ing thus.
meat settJes and is is ready ta thus, the the meat settles and to carve. carve. ing
juices, roasting. ~ë)TIs ndus À A LA La DROCHE snocrm -- Red Spit roasting. Rd
meat, rich in in juices, Spit must always always be be browned browned and and then
then subjected subjected 10 to an even even heat, heat, must to ensure ensure that
meat is is cooked that the the meat cooked right right through. through. Anthracite
Anthracite to gives an an intense intense heat producing flames, and heat wirhout
without producing and is is very very gives for cooking suitable for cooking red
red meac. meat. suitable For white white meaL meat, the heat must the heat must be
be adjusted adjusted sa so that that the For external browning browning and and
internaI internal cooking place simulcooking take take place external principles
apply ta taneously. The The same poultry. same principles to poultry. tancously.
Spit-roasted food food must must be frequently basted. This is done be frequently
Spit-roasted with the floating on the fat on the the top of the liquid liquid in in
the drippingwirh fat floating juice itself. pan, and and oot not with with the the
juice itself. Basting with pure pure fat profat propan, a tender, duces a tender,
well-browned well-browned roast, whereas basting basting with the the duces
prevents the cooking liquid liquid prevents the roast roast from browning. cooking
browning. Gravy of ofthe roast. JUS nOrn -- lt JUs DE It is is essential to extract
DE RÔTIS Gravy the roast. goodness in all the in the roasting or dripping dripping
pan by immediate ail the goodness dilution with gravy of of a dilution with water
or clear stock, and boiling. boiling. The gravy roast completely skimmcd. should
not not be be completely skimmed. roasl shoule! The S€!rving serving of of roasts.
roasts. DRESSAGE DREssAGE nrs ROrn roast, if it it DES R6TIS The - The roast, is a
joint bird, is is laid garnished on a a very dish and and garnished is a joint or
or a a bird, laid on very hot hot dish with picked over, washed wirh fresh fresh
watercress watercress which which has has been becn picked gravy is and thoroughly
The gravy drained. The separately, but is served separately, but and thoroughly
drained. just serving, the cooking cooking fat poured over the just before before
serving, rat may be poured roast. and eastem eastern France, a thick In some sorne
parts parts of of northern northem and roas!. In pur6e apples and stewed fruit with
roasts. of apples and stewed fruit is is often orten served with roasts. purée of
These compotes should be be only only slightly slightly sweetened. These compotes
and and pur6es purées should Winged wild duck. duck, pintail and teal, Winged game,
game, other than wild pintail and tcal, are served canapés or or slices sli.ces of
of bread bread fried f ried in in butter but ter and and spread served on on
canapis with à gratinforcemeat gratinforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT).
with ri Game Game birds birds are are usually usually garnished garnished with with
watercress watercress and halved or quartered quartered lemons. lemons. Orange is
is sometimes sometimes served halved or instead of lemon lemon with wi th wild wild
duck, duck, teal, tea l, pintail pin tail and and other wildwi Idinstead of fowl.
fowl. In is often onen garnished garnished with In England, England, roast roast
winged winged game game is Potato PotGto crrps crisps (see (see POTATOES).
POTATOES). Bread Bread sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and fried fricd breadcrumbs
breaderumbs are are served served in in addition addition to ta the gravy.
gra ..'Y. Redcurrant Rcdcurrant jelly jelly and and chestnut chestnut pur6e purée
are are often served with roast ground game. game. roast venison venison and and
small small ground Average Average cooking cooking times times for for roasts.
roasts. rEMps TEMPS MoyEN MOYEN DE DE curssoN CUISSON ors DES ndns RÔTISBeef. Bee!
Oven Oven temperature lemperat\Jre 200'C. 200"C. (400'F., (400""F., Gas Gas Mark
Mark 6) 6) except except fillet. fillet. Contre-filet Contre-filet or or faux faux
filet fi/el - Boned, Boned, 20 20 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.)
lb.) plus pl us 20 20 minutes. mi nutes. On On the the bone, bone, l5 15 minutes
min utes per per 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus 15 15 minutes. minutes. Fillet
Fil/el - Oven Oven temperature temperature 230'C. 230°C. (450"F., (450~F., Gas Gas
Mark Mark 8) l2 12 to lb.); or ta 15 15 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (1
(lib.); or 15 15 to ta 18 18 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (1 (l lb.) lb.)
if if using using a a spit. spi!. Rib lb.) plus 5 minutes 15 to ta l8 18 minutes
minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (lIb.) plus I15 mi nutes; Rih - 15 ; or 20 20
minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus 20 20 minutes
minutes if if using using a a spit. SpiL As As soon saon as as the the meat meat is
is taken taken off off the the spit spit it it must must be be put put in in a a
wann 30 minutes minutes or or longer, longer, according according to ta size. siu.
wanm oven aven for for 30 Under U nder this this very very moderate modera te heat
heat cooking cooking is is completed completed and and 298 298

juices. rib retains retains ail the rib all ils its internaI internal juices. the
(l lb.) Sirloinl0 to 15 15 minutes per 500 minutes per plus 10 g. (1 lb.) plus 500
g. l0 mÎnutes. minutes. Sir/oill - lOto Sirloin roast roast à per 500 g.
it /'anf!/aise l'anglaise -- 15 18 minutes minutes per 15 \0 to 18 500 g. Sir/oin
(l lb.) plus 15 lb.) plus 15 minutes. minutes. (1 Lamb and and ml/(Ion. mutton.
Oven (400'F., Gas Oven temperature temperature 200~C. 200"C. (400"F., Gas Lamb Mark
6). 6). Mark Baron -- 1 (l lb.) 18 20 minu g. (1 per 500 to 20 minutes plus 18 lb.)
plus 500 g. 18 min minutes. Baron R to tes per utes. Breast --20 per 500 (l lb.)
plus 25 minutes minutes per plus 20 to 25 500 g. 20 minutes. minutes. Breast 20 to
e. (lIb.) (l lb.) Leg --20 g. (1 per 500 500 g. lb.) plus 20 20 minutes. minutes.
Leg 20 minutes per (l lb.) plus Saddle -- 18 18 to 20 20 min minutes plus 18 g.
(lIb.) 18 min 500 g. minutes. Sadd/e utes per 500 utes. (l lb.) Shoulder -- l8 18
ta 20 minutes per 500 g. (1 to 20 minutes per plus 18 lb.) plus 500 g. 18 Shou/der
minutes. minutes. Pork. Oven (400'F., Gas Oven temperature 200"C. 200C. (400°f.,
Gas Mark 6). 6). Pork. Breast -25 (l lb.) plus 25 g. (1 to 30 minutes per 500 500
g. 25 minutes. minutes. Breast25 to Fillet per 500 (l lb.) plus 25 25 to 30 minutes
per g. (l 500 g. 25 minutes. minutes. Fil/el - 25 Veal. Oven (400'F., Gas Mark Oven
tempcrature temperature 200°C. 200'C. (400°F., Mark 6). Vea/. Breast - 24 to 28
minutes per 500 g. (l lb.) plus 24 g. (J 24 minutes. minutes. Breasl(U.5.
tender/oin) Lengthwise cut cut of of chump chump end end (U.s. tenderloin\ 25 ta
LenglhlVise to 30 - 25 (1 lb.) plus 25 g. (1 minutes per 500 g. 25 minutes.
minutes. mÎnutes Top fou! loin or fil/et 25 to per 500 (l lb.) g. (1 to 30 minutes
per lb.) plus 500 g. Top fillet - 25 25 minutes. 25 Poultry. Pou/try. (400"F.,
Chickm Chicken F., Gas Mark 6), 6), - Oven temperature 200"C. (400" (l lb.) plus 15
l5 minutes minutes per 500 500 g. (l l5 minutes; or 20 minutes 15 (l lb.) plus 20
minules per 500 g. g. (lIb.) minutes if using a spit. Duck (375"F., Oven
temperature 190 190'C. Gas Mark Mark 5), Duck C. (375'" F., Gas - Oven (l lb.) 15
minutes minutes per g. (J plus 15 500 g. lb.) plus 15 minutes; minutes; or 15 per
500 or 20 (l lb.) plus 20 minutes if using a g. (1 minutes per 500 g. spit. a spi!.
Goose Oven temperature 190 190'C. Gas Mark Mark 5), C. (375"F., Gas - Oven (l lb.)
plus 15 l5 minutes per 500 g. (1 l5 minutes. 15 (400"F., Guinea-fowl Oven
temperature temperature 200°C. 200"C. (400' Guinea-fow/ F .. Gas - Oven 45 to Mark
6), 6), 45 60 minutes I to or 1 l{ ta 60 min utes per bird; or to 1 ~ hours if if
using a spil. spit. Pigeon - Oven temperature (400'F., Gas Mark 6). 6), tempcralure
200"C. 200°C. (4ù0"F., 20 minutes minutes if 20 to ta 30 min utes per bird; or 30
to 40 mi nu tes per bird if using a spic. spit. l1sing Turkey temperature 190'C.
190"C. (375'F., (375°F., Gas Mark Mark 5), - Oven temperature 15 (l lb.) a bird 15
minutes per per 500 g. g. (1 lb.) plus plus 15 J 5 minutes for a weighing up to or
l0 51 kg. kg. (12 (12 lb.), lb.), or 10 minutes per per 500 g. ta 5| (1 (1 lb.)
lb.) plus plus l0 10 minutes minutes for a a bird bird weighing wcighing over over
5{ 5~ kg. (12 (12 lb.). Ground game. (400.F., Gas Ground game. Oven Oven
temperature temperatllre 200'C. 200°C. (400°F., Mark Mark 6). Hare (baron) (baron)
- 15 to ta 20 minutes per 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) plus plus 15 minutes; or 20 to (1
lb.) plus ta 25 25 minutes minutes per 500 g. g. (1 plus 20 minutes minutes if if
using using a spit. spi!. Roebuck Roebuck (haunch (haunch or saddle) - 20 minutes
per 500 g. (l (1 lb.) plus minutes; or 25 to ta 30 minutes per 500 g. (1 (1 lb.)
plus plus 20 minutes; 25 minutes minutes if if using using a spit. Young Young
rabbit rabbil - 15 15 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (l lb.) lb.) plus
plus 15 15 minutes; minutes; or 20 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. (l (1 lb.)
lb.) plus plus 20 minutes if if using using a spit. Winged Winged game. game. Oven
Oven temperature temperature 200"C. 200°C. (2100'F., (400°F., Gas Mark Mark 6). 6).
Grouse -25 to 40 minutes - 25 to to 30 30 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or or
30 3010 minutes per bird if using using a spit. spi!. bird if Partridge Partridge -
30 30 to ta 45 minutes minutes per per bird; or or 45 to ta 60 minutes minutes per
a spit. spi\. per bird bird if if using using a Pheasant Pheasant - 50 50 to to 60
60 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or I 1 to ta lf It hours hauTS if if using
spi t. using a spit. Quai/15 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or or 20 20
minutes minutes per per bird bird if if using Ilsing Quail - 15 a a spit. spic.
Snipe 5 minutes Snipe - I15 minutes per pcr bird bird; or 20 20 minutes minutes per
per bird bird if if using using ; or a a spit. spi\. Teal Teal30 minutes minutes
per per bird; bi(d; or or 40 40 minutes minutes per per bird bird if if using using
- 30 a a spit. spit. V[/oodcock Woodcock - 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes minutes per
per bird; bird; or or 30 30 to to 35 35 minutes minutes per a spit. spit. per bird
bird if if using using a
ü
CURNONSKY CURNONSKY
Sautés frying pan, cooking in a wide, shallow frying Saut6s - Method of cooking In
France these portions of food. food. In generally used used for small small
portions pans are called sautoirs, sauteuses. sautoirs, plats à d sauter or
sauteuses. cooking is done in heated fat, butter The cooking butter or oil. The
food is seasoned butter or fat is thoroughly thoroughly heated, it is seasoned and
when the butter laid fiat flat in the pan so that it is thoroughly sealed. sealed.
and fillet treated in in this way are rump and meat treated Small cuts of meat and
noisettes steaks, médaillons medaillons and and tournedos (beef); cutlets and veal
sweetsweetand escalopes or veal chops and (mutton or lamb); veal veal chops breads.
quickly as as quickly as possible Red meat meat must must be saut6ed as possible in
Red be sautéed fresh butter meat can can be saut6ed in in fresh claritied be
sautéed clarified butter. butter. White meat These cuts cuts are and, after after
sealing, more slowly. and, may cook cook more slowly. These sealing, may sautéed
saut6ed with the pan uncovered. uncovered. etc.) is size, pigeon, etc.) Saut6ed
poultry (chicken of medium size, Sautéed apply as as in case of The same always
jointed. jointed. The in the case same principles apply white meat. well browned on
both sides and Pieces oflarger of larger poultry are weil with covered. left to
cook further wi th the pan covered. pan and Serving. Sauté taken out out of the the
pan Serving. be taken Saut6 dishes must be The dishes as indicated recipe. The
dishes are the selected selected recipe. served indicated in in the served as fried
bread into shapes. arranged with with pieces cut into shapes. After arranged pieces
of fried bread cut has been diluted with cooking stock which been diluted
garnishing, the which has the cooking red or white wine, white or brown stock.
cream, m, is poured stock, or crea over the dish. given to various ragoûts ragottts
where where the Mixed sautés saut6s - Name given grary is not thickened with fiour.
ragoftts, made up of flour. These ragoûts, gravy small pieces pieces of of boned
lamb, beef, mutton or veal, are fried in butter, fat or oil. are cooked with
various cooked in own stock diluted diluted with They are in their own ragoftts,
and liquids, as as with and served with various with ordinary ragoûts, served with
garnishes. garnishes.
ferments. It [t is is a a result result of the casein and ferments. the
precipitation of of casein contains varying proportions of butter, depending on con
tains varying proportions of butter, depending whether or not the milk has
previously been skimmed. When curd is obtained by action of rennet, the curd is
obtained the action by the of rennet, the serum serum still a considerable
proportion of casein, which contains which can can be con tains a precipitated by a
second The serum by a second coagulation. coagulation. The serum of milk
precipitated casein. curdled by acidification contains very little casein. as it it
is cream. Curdling is is the Curd can can be Curd be eaten as is or with cream. in
the manufacture of cheese (q.v.). first operation in CURE CHEESE. CURÉ - See
CHEESE.

CURLEW. COURLIS couRLIS - Wader, Wader, a a marsh which is is not bird which
CURLEW. marsh bird highly esteemed from the culinary point of view. Cooked in
rughlyesteemed
as plover (q.v.). the same same way as

CURNONSKY Maurice Edmond Edmond Sailland, Sailland, the the future CURNONSKY -
Maurice October 1872. After Curnonsky, was was born l2 Octo Curnonsky, in Angers on
ber 1872. bom in on 12 a secondary literature secondary school education, he went
on to study literature a at the The attractio'1s attractions of journalism
Sorbonne. The speedill' at the Sorbonne. journalism speedily enticed him away from
a a university career, and in 1892 he career. and in 1892 enticed him away began to
newspaper offices and and literary circles. circles. He to frequent newspaper made
friends wherever he went.

long and and spindle-shaped CUMIN whose long spindle-shaped seeds are - Plant whose
and five-sided and dull yellow or 1 ight brown in col our. They are five-sided
light colour. and spicy smooth or covered with tiny hairs. They are acrid and in
taste. and in in the Cumin is for seasoning and the preparation Cumin is used
preparation of used for Wild cumin Bread is is also also made with cumin cumin
seeds. Wild liqueurs. Bread is sometimes cheeses, Munster cheese. ses, such as
Munster sometimes used in certain chee
metal in r.c,ssr Receptacle made of china or metaJ CUP. TASSE in various -
Receptacle shapes and sizes, provided with a handle. EcslNsoN Official charged with
the dut CUP-BEARER. ÉCHANSON y duty - Official a king or other great personage. of
pouring pouring wine for a personage. cup-bearer or bouteiller de France was a The
title of senior senior cup-bearer purely honorary one under Louis XIV. XIV. This
This officer had had no gentlemen under rus were twenty-four gentlemen his though
there were duties though command. commando armorial bearing of this office The
armorial office showed two silver-gilt silver-gilt arms of the king, engraved with
with the arrns king, supporting bottles engraved supporting the gradually arms of
the holder of the fell gradually the office. office. His functions feU arrns into
disuse, until until finally they were exercised only only at coronations,
ceremonial feasts, feasts, at Communion Supper on Maundy Thursday, etc. The office
itself was left vacant. etc. The was sometimes Thursday, vacant. sometimes left The
last bouteiller de France under the old monarchy was the de Lamerrnary, Lamermary,
appointed in in 1702. marquis de The Echansons de Paris was founded founded after
after the The Échansons de Paris was the Second good wine. wine. World War. Its aim
is to publicise good CURAQAO Liqueur made from the rind rind of Seville oranges
CURAÇAO - Liqueur and brandy or gin. and

fi

(Ke-r'slone) Curnonsky at 80 years orage of age (KeyslOne) Curnonsky

CURCUMAIndian plant whose yellowish rhizome has an CURCUMA - Indian acrid and
ginger. and bitter and smells flavour and saffron and and ginger. acrid bitter
fiavour smells of saffron Powdered, the is used in curry powder and and English the
rhizome is mustard. clIrr-e in milk or coagulum formed formed in CURD. CAILLÉ -
Precipitate or subjected to action of acidified by to the of rennet or aciditied
rennet or by lactic subjected the action
299 299

On the advice of Alphonse Allais, the of one of these friends, Alphonse a

pseudonym. It was the decided to to choose a young Sailland decided period of
Franco-Russian "Why not Franco-Russian entente. "Why not Sky?" someperiod one
suggested. He replied, 'Cur non Sky?' Sfty?' The pseudonym one had been found. had
gives the Simon Arbellot, Arbellot, his biographer, gives the following Simon his
biographer, life and and career career of this unrivalled princedescription of the
life this unrivalled gastronomes. elect of gastronomes. 'Tracing Curnonsky's life
through part of the Curnonsky's life through the the early early part century means
ostentation of of the the boulevard, bou I ev ar d, century means reliving reliving
all the gay ostentation and breathing air of what what is is called breathing again
the the perfumed air called la /a and belle époque. ipoque. He He was was to be
found found wherever wherever imagination imagination belle to be
CURRANT CURRANT
triumphed triumphed over conformity. confonnity. P. P. J. J. Toulet and Jean de de
Tinan were circle and were friends friends of his; his; Willy Willy invited him him
into his his circJe Curnonsky collaborof his favourite Cu monsky was later later to
become become one of fa vouri te collaborators. author ,Hors. Everyone knew that
the old old master humorist, humorist, author of sa so many licentious licentious
novels, had had the knack of surrounding surrounding himself himself with with
young intellectuals intellectuals who had had fun fun ghosting for him. pe/il vieux
bim bien propre propre is attributed to Curnonsky; him. Un petit Toulet a part of
Maugis Toulet is is supposed supposed to to have have written written a part of
Maugis en great many minage; and the the two two together together wrote a a great
many nowménage; and forgotten works signed which have have a signed 'Willy',
'Willy', the the titles of which strong fin savour: des courtisanes, fin de de
slbcle siècle sa vou r: le le Brtviaire Bréviaire des courtisanes. le Mitier elc.
Métier d'amant, d'amanl, Jeu leu de prince, etc. 'Curnonsky 'Curnonsky was to be
found wherever wherever there there was a meeting of of minds. L6on Léon Daudet, in
his Souvenirs, gives gives us a picture picture of him as a regular regular visitor
to Weber's, Weber's, joining joining in the debates of Forain, Maxime Dethomas,
Adrien Adrien H6brard, Hébrard, Maurice Maurice de Fleury, of Marcel Fleury, while
the slight, slighl, vaguely vaguely disturbing disturbing shadow shadow of Proust
hovered background. He was also to be found hovered in the background. at Maxim's
conversing conversing with Feydeau Feydeau and Maurice Maurice Bertrand. Bertrand.
He used to join join Paul Fort occasionally in the evenings at the Closerie
Closerie des des lilas, lilas, but but secretly he he preferred preferred the the
poetry of George George Fourest fourest and Raoul Ponchon to symbolism. 'One travel
and distant 'One day he he yielded to the temptations temptations of oftravel
horizons. On his retum he he wrote wrote the account of the African expeditions of
of the duc de Montpensier. Montpensier. He was to become a skilful "biographer"
"biographer" of of this hunting hunting prince. He moved on to China country left
China where where the the cuisine cuisine of the the country lefl an an indelible
indelible imprint on his mind; he he proclaimed procJaimed it to be be the best of
the world. 'This somewhat bohemian way way of life was, was, nonetheless,
nonetheless, marked by a a considerable literary literary output. output. Novels,
Novels, short marked by stories, collections of anecdotes anecdotes made made the
stories, an an anthology, anthology, collections name a familiar familiar one one
in in the press and in the na me of Curnonsky a publishing world. he wrote Une
riche nature, na/ure, wor/d. For Dranem he for Charles Charles Barret, Barret, Un
homme qui a bien tourni. tourne. 'Writing 'Writing was his passion. passion. And
his masters? masters? First FirSI and foremost was La Bruydre, Bruyere, whose whose
advice advice he he loved to 10 repeat to his young "If you wish to say it is
raining, young friends: friends: "If raining. then say it is is raining." raining."
Then Then Anatole Anatole France France (the (the Anatole Anatole France France of
or Jacques Tournebroche Tournebroche rather than than of M. M. Bergeret), for the
clarity his old-fashioned, old-fashioned, methodical methodical style. I 1 have
have heard clarit)' of his Curnonsky Curnonsky cry out in indignation indignalion
at the the sight of of a solecism. solecism. Language Language was no mere form of
of words to to him. him, 'Then came carne the gastronomic gastronomie period,
together tagether with princedom dom and and public acclaim. Fifty or so so
academies academics and and clubs clubs fought for his presidency and solicited his
his presence at their feasts. feaSlS. "Cur" "Cur" had had always loved loved his
his food. The Anjou Anjou wine and rillauds of his his childhood had trained
trained his his appetite, and the rillauds and while the rue Jacob periodlOuched on
by Jacob period - so discreetly touched Madame Madame Colette Colelle - seems to 10
have have been been somewhat somewhat disappointdisappointing in this this respect,
respect, the Maxim Maxim and Weber Weber era era followd followed closely closely
ing in on its heels. of an an epicure and heels. Later, with with the the
collaboration of great great amphitryon, amphitryon, Marcel Marcel Rouff, Rouff,
Curnonsky undertook undertook what amounted to Il was to this this cause cause that
to a tourist tourist crusade. crusade. It he he began to ta devote devole all ail
his time. ti me. I-a Ln France France gastronomique gastronomique (32 (32 volumes,
interrupted in!errllpled at the twenty-eighth twenty-eighth by the death of of his
collaborator) is a monument monument of erudition, and a tribute to to
eollaboralor) is the soil. There are also dozens dozens of cookery cookery the
richness richness of our soil. books, Jess a literary 1i tera ry than than a a
gastronomic gast ronomic delight. de] ight. books, each each one no no less 'A
public public referendum referendurn in May 1927 1927 crowned him him Prince of
Gastronomes, Gastronomes, and there Ihere was was no no respite respite for for him
him after that. tha\. He He went dünées to light light snacks, snacks,
inaugurations inaugurations and and enwent from from disnies thronements, tâte-vins
and and barbecues barbecues without without a a break. break. thronements, tArc-
vins Wherever he went there there was was a table table laid laid ready ready for
him, him, the Wherever he finest flnest wines wines placed placed at his his
disposal. disposaI. 'On 23 March March 1928 he founded the Academy Academy of of
GastroGastronomes, nomes, modelled on the the Acad€mie Académiejrançaise, fort
Yseats seats frangaise, with forty and with symbolic symbolic titles titles ranging
ranging from from Epicure Epicure to to Talleyrand. Talleyrand.
300 300

seat, Marcel Roufl Rouff in that of Honor6 Honoré de Balzac. Balzac. For himself
himself seat, he chose chose the seat of of Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, in
whose honour honour he gave gave an address. 'Curnonsky enjoyed enjoyed a a
sprightly old old age. age. Honoured Honoured and fEted fêted wherever he went, he
had the satisfaction of seeing his young disciples disciples carrying earrying on
his good work and and realising the idea that was so close to 10 his heart, that
oflÎnking of linking the route to tourism. He died d ied as the ta the interests
interests of the good restaurant to of tourism. result of an accident ofan accident
in 1956.'
GROSEILLE * - There are various variOliS types of of currant, currant, CURRANT.
cRosEILLE blackredcurraJ/ts, whitecurranls II'hitecurrants and and black· the best-
known being redcurrants, Red and and whitecurrants whitecurrants are cliitivated in
in several are cultivated currants. Red and in regions of France, notably on the
outskirts outskins of Paris, Paris, and the Meuse and and Puy-de-D6me Puy-de-Dôme
districts. districts. Blackcurrants Blackcurrants are the grown mainly on the COte
Côte d'Or. In Dijon blackcurrants blackcurrants are to make make Cassis de de
Dijon, an an internationally famous used to used liqueur. liqueur. Red and
whitecurrants raw. as a dessert, but whiteeurrants can be eaten raw, a re more more
commonly com monly used used in in jellies, jell ies, syrups sy rups and in various
t hey are they sweets. Red Red and and whitecurrants whitecurrants are are used
used at at Barle-Duc Bar-le-Duc to sweets. ma ke a jelly jelly which enjoys enjoys
a great reputation. repu ta t ion. make compote. coMporE COMPOTI DE DE cRosErlrss
GROSEILLES - Wash Wash and Curra nt compote. Currant clean the currants currants
and put them in io a bowl. Pour pour over over them rhem a boiling syrup cups sugar
plus plus lj 11 cups water) water) boiled boiled to syrllp (2 cups tzt"c. 121e.
(250.F.). (250°F.). lel/ies. Currant jam - See JAM, JAM', Jellies. Currant Curra nt
juice for fOr ices ices. rus JUs DE DE GRosETLLE GROSEILLE pouR POUR GLAcEs GLACES
Currant STRAWProceed as as for for strawberrv strawberry ice iee mixture. mixture.
(See (See STRA WProceed BERRY.)
CAIU - Combination of spices, thoroughly dried, CURRY. cARI ground powder, and
cooked slowly in clarified clarified butter, burter, ground to a powder, vegetable
vegetable oil or or soured milk milk before adding adding the fish, fish, meat,
Ineat, eggs or vegetables curried. The curry curry powders vegetables that are to
be curried. sold in grocery shops are usually a combination combination of of
fifteen Rfteen or twenty lwenty herbs, seeds and spices. Those Those who really
appreciate appreciate curry spices to ta go go with curry choose choose special
special combinations combinations of spices various sOllle of of which which call
cali for for mild, mild, subtle subtle seasonings various dishes, some and others
for hotter Orles. The strength ofa of a curry curry depends hotter ones. on how
used. how much chilli ehilli is used. The principal principal ingredients
ingredients of curry powder powder are are allspice, allspice, anise, anise. bay
bay leaves, cinnamon, cînnamon, caraway, earaway, celery seed, seed, cloves,
coriander, diU, fennel, fenugreek fenugreek (seeds coriander, cumin, curry leaves,
Ieaves, dill, and leaves) , . garlic, ginger, mace, mustard, nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper
(white (whitt! and black), paprika, paprika. poppy seeds, saffron, turmeric,
tunnerie, mint, cubeb berries, zedoary berries, sumach seeds, juniper juniper
berries, berries, zedoary root, TOot, salt. For the the preparation of different
curries curries see see MUTTON, CHICKEN. CHlCKEN. Bichique Bichîque curry curry
(Cr6ole (Créole cookery). cARr CARI DE DE BIcHIeUES DlCHIQUIS - The bichique
bichique is is a minute minute fish found near near the island of of R6union.
Réunion. It Il is is exported in tins and prepared as follows: Cook Cook a finely
finely chopped chopped onion onion in in good good quality quaJity fat or or oil
until golden. For a small tin tin of bichique add a large large peeled and seeded
tomato cut eut into into tiny tillY pieces, pieces, and and I 1 coffeespoon
coffeespoon seeded tomato R6union Réunion saffron. Cover. Coyer, and cook for a few
seconds. Pound together in in a mortar moTtar some sorne ginger, I 1 clove c10ve of
of garlic, a sprig of parsley, parsley, and and salt. salt. Mix Mix with with the
the ingredients ingredients in in the the pan. pan. Carefully Carefully add the
fish. Do not stir stir or they they may may break break as they are to soak for 20
minutes. Cover Coyer the the pan pan are very very fragile. fragile. Leave Leave to
and pUI it li in in a a moderate moderalt! oven oyen for for 20 to to 25 minutes.
minutes. Serve Serve with and put Rice Rice d il la criole créole (see (see RICE).
RICE). Bringelle CAJU DE DE BRTNGELLES RRINGELLES - Cut Cut Bringelle curry curry
(Cr6ole (Créole cookery). cookery). cARr some sorne lean lean and fat pork pork
into Înto large large cubes as for for a stew. Brown them in fat with \VÎth finely
chopped onion. Add 2 teatea· them lightly in well-crushed spoons saffron, parsley,
parsley, thyme, thyme, garlic, a a piece piece of ofwell-crushed spoons stem ginger
ginger and and chopped tomatoes. tomatoes. Slice Sliœ aubergines aubergines into
into

His His friends joined joined him - Maeterlinck in in Vergilius Maro's

CUSTARD CUSTARD MARROW
rounds and dip them in water slightly slightly seasoned seasoned with salt and
vinegar. Drain thoroughly and put them in a saucepan with the pork. Moisten Moisten
with a little olive oil and cover. coyer. Stir from time to time, crushing the
aubergines aubergines with the spoon.,Allow spoon.rAllow 2| 2t hours for cooking
cooking on a low flame. Serve when the sauce is thick.

milk variously variously sweetened and and flavoured, and cooked either
over hot water or baked in the oven. oyen. Caramel custard. cnirvm Line a CRÈME
uourfr MOULÉE AU AU cARAMET CARAMEL - Line mould with caramel and fill it with a
preparation preparation of Vanilla custard a pan half-filled with custard (see
below). Set the mould in a hot hot water and cook slowlv slowly in the oven. oyen.

CUSTARD. cniur CRÈME -- Custard is a mixture mixture of of beaten eggs and

Custard apple: a, fruit a. Section Section of offruit

CUSTARD MARROW. CHAYOTE cHAyorE

in France as that is is the in as brionne, brionne, that fruit of a a climbing

plant the fruit
':,S'

Vegetable, also Vegetable, also known

"ii

-*#. :f.

belonging to to the the same family as marrows. The belonging as marrows. The
custard same family marrow is a native of of Mexico Mexico and the Antilles. Its
cultivation marrow notably Algeria. has spread to other hot countries, notably
Algeria. The fruit of the custard marrow marrow is a a large green pear with deep
ribbing. ribbing. Its Its surface is somewhat spiny. deep surface is The flesh
spiny. The flesh is white, firm, homogenous, without smell or too pronounced a
taste. It is prepared in many ways. Before cooking cooking it must like cardoons
(q.v.), (q.v.), being be blanched or cooked au aa blanc, blanc,like quarters and
first cut into quarters and trimmed trimmed into into lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped
first cut into pieces. pieces.

Caramel custard custard Caramel

CRÈME FRIrE FRITE - Put 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2{ oz., 2~- cups) cups) Fried custard.
cRiIrE sifted flour in in a pan with 125 g. (4 oz.,l oz., -t cup) fine sugar, 12 12
yolks, 4 whole whole eggs eggs and and a a small pinch of salt. Moisten Moisten egg
yolks, with I 1 litre (lf (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) milk which
which has been with boiled with with a vanilla vanilla pod. Add 50 50 g. (2 oz., f,
J cup) cup) butter. butter. Mix boiled well and and cook on the the stove stove in
the the same same way as French French pastr)) pastry well cream (see CREAMS), CREA
MS), stirring all ail the time. Spread Spread out this cream on a buttered baking
baking sheet in an even layer, layer, about 5 5 mm. mm. (+ Ci inch) thick, thick,
and and leave to cool. Cut Cut into pieces pieces and dip in in beaten beaten egg
egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. boiling fat. fat. Drain the pieces, dry them
on a Fry in deep boiling sprinkle with powdered powdered sugar. sugar. Serve Serve
with Apricot cloth, and sprinkle sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with
liqueur. liqueur. sauce Vanilla custard. cRiME CRÈME uourEn MOULÉE A À rn LA
v.rNrI-m VANILLE _. Dissolve Yanilla g. (4 oz., * t cup) sugar in { 1 litre (scant
pint, 2} 2J cups) cups) 100 g. boiled milk. milk. Add Add t ,! vanilla pod, and
leave to infuse infuse for 20 boiled minutes. Pour this, this, little !ittle by
little, over 2 whole eggs eggs and 4 minutes. yolks which which have have been been
beaten beaten together together in a basin. basin. Mix egg yolks well and and
strain. Remove Remove the froth froth which which forms on the surface surface well
of the the cream. cream. of Fill a a charlotte charlotte mould mould with the the
mixture mixture and and cook in in a Fill bain-marie in the the oven. oyen. Let it
cool thoroughly thoroughly before before turning bain-marie it out. out. it

Custard marrows marrows Custard

CUST ARD APPLE APPLE coRossorCOROSSOL - Common Common name na me for for a species
species CUSTARD of annona annona and and its its fruit.It fruit. It sometimes
sometimes attains a weight of of 4 kg. of (8i (8t to to 9 9 lb.), lb), though
though the the tree tree that that produces produces it is is stunted and bare.
bare. The fruit, fruit, which which resembles resembles a large large pimento
pimento in shape, has has a a The smooth green green skin with with a few hairy
hairy protuberances. protuberances. The The pulp pulp smooth is white, white,
compact and full full of of black black seeds the the size of of apricot apricot is
kernels which, which, when the the fruit is is ripe, ripe, give give off an
agreeable agreeable kernels The taste taste is is slightly acid. acid. When When
crushed and mixed odour. The with four four or or five five times times its its
volume volume of ofwater, the pulp pulp produces produces with water, the a liquid
liquid similar similar to to milk. milk. After After being being sweetened
sweetened and chilled it a makes a a pleasant pleasant drink. drink. makes 301 301

Custard marrows marrows in b6chanel béchamel sauce. sauce. cHAyorEs CHA YOTES AU
BLANc BLANC Custard in the the same sa me way way as as Custard marrows d à la
Prepared in h crème crime (see (see below) but moistened moistened with with
Bdchamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SA UCE) SAUCE) place of of fresh fresh cream.
cream. in place au jus. jus. cHAyorEs CHA YOTES snA.rsfns BRAISÉES eu AU Braised
custard marrows au JUS - Trim into lozenge lozenge shapes and and blanch in boiling
salted JUs water. Drain. Put them in a buttered pan lined with strips of bacon rind
rind and sliced carrots and onions. Season. Season. Cover Coyer with bacon consommé
from which not all ail the fat has been been skimmed, a consomm6 reduced to a and
cook with the lid on. When the liquor is reduced a glaze add a few tablespoons rich
brown brown veal stock. Simmer. Simmer. Drain the custard custard marrows marrows
and pour pour over over them them a a sauce sauce made Drain the liquor remaining
remaining in in the the pan, pan, adding by boiling down the butter and straining
straining through through a sieve. sieve. butter Custard marrows with butter.
cHAyorEs CHAYOTES AU BEURRE - Cut BEURRE marrows into into large large lozenge-
shaped lozenge-shaped pieces. Cook Cook the custard marrows in White White court-
bouillon court-bouillon for for vegetables vegelables (see (see COURTCOURTin
BOUILLON) keeping them them firm. firrn. BOUILLON) put them into a a saut6 sauté
pan pan or Drain and dry the pieces, put heavy frying pan pan in which which 3
tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant i } cup) butter butter heavy has been been
heated. Moisten with 3 tablespoons (scant * J' cup) cup) has
CUTTING BOARD BOARD CUTTING
veal or gently or chicken chicken consommé, consomm6, or or water. water. Coyer
Cover and and cook cook gently veal until cooked. cooked. Pour Pour over over them
liquor in in which them the the liguor which they have they have until cooked. witb
with a a little little butter butter added. added. cooked, Custard marrows malrows
à i la la crème. crdme. CHA cHAyorEs A LA r..l CRÈME cntrrap -- Cook Cook Custard
YOTES À marrows in the custard custard marrows in the the same same way way as as
for for Custard Custard marrows manows the with buller. butter. When When nearly
nearly cooked cooked coyer cover them fresh them with with fresh with boiled cream
cream and and finish finish cooking cooking with with the lid on. the lid on.
boiled pour over To serve, serve, pour over them them the the cream cream in in
which which they were they were To cooked. cooked. Custard marrows marrows à i la
la créole. cr6ole. CHA cHAyorEs A LA ra CRÉOLE cnEore -Custard YOTES À the custard
custard marrows, marrows, blanch in salted blanch them them weil well in salted
Quarter Quarter the (4 oz., g. (4 water. Cook Cook 100 100 g. oz.,l cup) chopped
chopped onions in butter onions in butter water. 1 cup) (half and and oil and
half). oil (half half). Add Add 3 peeled, seeded 3 tomatoes, tomatoes, peeled,
seeded and and and garni (g.v.) (q.v.) a coarsely chopped, chopped, a a bouquet
bouquet garni a minced minced clove clove of of coarsely garlic, and and the the
custard custard marrows. marrows. Cook with the !id lid on. Cook with on. garlic,
Serve in in a a border of rice, cooked of rice, cooked in in bouillon. bouillon.
Sprinkle Sprinkle the the Serve custard marrows with chopped chopped parsley.
custard marro\ly fritters. fritters. CHA cHAyorEs EN FRITOT FRrror -- Quarter the
Custard marrow VOTES EN Quarter the custard marrows marrows and and cook cook in in
White White court-bouillon court-bouillon for custard for (see COURT-BOUILLON).
vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain and and dry dry them. them. vegetables
juice, salt Put them in a them in a marinade of of olive olive oil, lemon juice,
oil, lemon and salt and Put pepper. Dip piece in Dip each each piece in a a light
light batter batter and and deep-fry deep-fry in in pepper. boiling oil. oil.
Garnish with fried parsley. boiling pouR garnish. CHA marrows used Custard marrows
used as as a a garnish. cHAyorEs Custard YOTES POUR GARNITURES custard marrows,
cooked in butter cooked in GARNITURES Quartered custard - Quartered part of as part
or braised, braised, can can be garnish for be used used as of a a garnish for
eggs, eggs, fish, or pieces of meat, fowl, etc. small pieces etc. small garnish
eggs or fish, the custard marrows are are When used to garnish cut up into into
large dice, blanched and cooked cooked in butter. garnish pieces To garnish pieces
of meat or of meat or fowl, fowl, trim trim the the custard custard To in butter
butter or braise, marrows into large lozenge shapes, cook in juices of the meat
when they are nearly cooked, add the juices they are and when fowl which they are
or fowl are to accompany. marrows au gratin. CHA Custard marrows cHAyorEs
GRATINCustard YOTES AU GRATIN - Quarter Quarter the custard custard marrows, cook
in in White White court-bouillon for the marrows, cook for (see COURT-BOUILLON)
vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON) then then simmer simmer in in vegetables butter. a
buttered gratin dish and and sprinkle with butter. Arrange in a gratin dish grated
grated cheese. Pour melted butter over them and brown in a moderate oven. oyen.
marrows à la grecque. CHA i la cHAyorEs,r r.l, GRECQUE cnrcqun Custard marrows
YOTES À LA Dice the custard marrows. Blanch in in salted water and and cook in a
court-bouillon in same way way as as Aubergines Aubergines à d la Ia in a in the
the same grecque (see (see AUBERGINE). Leave Leave to to cool cool in in their
liquor liguor before serving. hors-d'ouuvre. serving. Use as an hors-d'oœuvre.
Custard la martiniquaise. i la martiniquaise. CHA csayores Custard marrows marrows
à YOTES A À ra LA ulnrnvt{ulIsn MARTINIQUAISE - Press Press boiled custard marrow
in a a cloth c10th to water, then pound the pulp together extract the maximum
maximum of ofwater, with bread dipped dipped in in milk. milk. Cook finely finely
chopped onion in butter, butter, add the custard marrow marrow mixture mixture with
a little salt and pepper, pepper, and milk. Smooth the surface with breadcrumbs and

(Recipe taken cook in in aa moderately moderately bot hot oyen. oven. (Recipe from
the cook taken from the Bulletin de de la la société sociitd d'horticulture
d'horticalture d'Algérie.) d'Algdrie.) Bulletin marrows mornay. Custard marrows
mornay. CHAYOTES cHAyorEs MORNAY MoRNAy -- Prepare Prepare in in Custard gratin.
The the same way as as Custard Custard marrows same way manows au oil gratin. The
custard the custard marrows are are arranged arranged in in a a dish layer of dish
on a layer of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce marrows on a (see SAUCE), SAUCE), covered
covered with with the sauce, sprinkled the same sprinkled with with (see same
sauce, grated cheese and and browned browned in in the the oven. oven. gra ted
cheese marrow salado salad. SALADE SALADE DE DE CHA Custard marrow Custard YOTES --
Quarter cHAyorEs the Quarter the marrows and custard marrows and cook cook in
Vlhite court-bouillon in White court-bouillon for custard for (see COURT-BOUILLON).
vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain Drain and vegetables and slice slice Season
with with oil, pepper and oil, vinegar, them. Season vinegar, pepper and chopped
chopped herbs. herbs. them. Stuffed custard custard marrows. malrows. CHA cHAyorES
FARcrEs -- Halve YOTES FARCIES Stuffed Halve the the custard marrows marrows
crossways, crossways, trim trim and and slightly hollow them custard slightly
hollow them Blanch in in salted out. Blanch water, drain drain and salted water,
and dry dry them. them. out. gently in in butter. Simmer gently When nearly nearly
cooked, Simmer butter. When cooked, fill fill them them (q.v.). pork forcemeat with
a a mixture mixture of forcemeat and of pork and dry dry duxelles duxelles (g.v.).
with Arrange the forcemeat in in the the forcemeat the form form of a dome. dome.
Put Arrange of a Put the the gratin dish, custard marrows marrows on a buttered
custard on a buttered gratin with dish, sprinkle sprinkle with gently in and melted
melted butter, in the breadcrumbs and butter, and and brown brown gently the oyen.
oven. prepared in in this Custard marrows prepared Custard this way way can can be
be served as a served as a part of as part vegetable or garnish of particular dish.
or used used as vegetable the garnish a particular ofthe ofa dish. pork forcemeat,
Instead of forcemeat, tbey of pork Instead they can can be be filled filled with
with one one or or preparations indicated indicated for other of of the the
preparations for various various stutfed other stuffed (see TOMATO, TOMATO,
AUBERGINE, vegetables (see AUBERGINE, etc.). etc.).
pLANcrrE À CL-IITING BOARD. BOARD. PLANCHE ClJTTING A DÉCOUPER o6coupnn --
Beechwood Beechwood for cutting up groove and board used used for up meat, provided
with with a a groove and a hole hole to to catch catch the juices. a

CUTTLEFISH. SEICHE, snlcrm, SÈCHE sitcrs -- Cephalopod mollusc with ClJTTLEFISH.

with (cuttlebone), secreting an internaI internal shelJ an shell (cuttlebone), an
inky inky liguid liquid secreting an (sepia). The The tough flesh becomes eatable
(sepia). tough flesh eatable if it it is is vigorously vigorously was popular with
the beaten. It was the Romans Romans and and is is stillliked in still liked in
certain countries, notably notably in certain in Spain. Spain. Powdered Powdered
cuttlebone cuttlebone formerly used was formerly used as as an an absorbent.
absorbent. is prepared prepared like octopus. Cuttlefish is CIIVE --Large CUVE
Large tun made of wood, cement or metal in in which grapes are pressed for the
grapes are pressed the for wine wine and and in in which which red red wine wine is
fermented.
CUVEAU cave. - Small cuve. CUVÉE CWEE cuvie can also be a - Product of a particular
cuve. A cuvée mixture mixture of ken from ditferent of grapes, either ta taken
different parts ofa of a large as in the vineyard, as the Bordeaux district, bought
from from different different growers under similar climatic conditions, in
Burgundy, conditions, as as in or the product of different harvests in the same of
different same region, region, as in Champagne and on Champagne opes of Rh6ne. The
final on the sI slopes of the Rhône. final result depends upon upon the quality
guality of depends vintage and the skilful of the vintage skilful balance mixture.
of the mixture.

Cutting board board ((Larousse) Cutting Larousse)

302
(* oz.) (f pint, seant g. (1 of a small pinch of milk, 10 10 g. oz.) yeast, a scant
cup) milk, (1
salt. lemon rind. salt, quarter of the the flour, flour, the a guarter Method. Make
Make a a leaven with a Method. leaven with a moderate Keep in yeast and in a
warmed. Keep milk, slightly slightly warmed. and the the milk, yeast temperature.
the melted melted in volume, mix in the When the leaven has doubled in yolks, sugar
sugar rind, egg egg yolks, little at a a time, time, the salt, salt, lemon rind,
butter, a a Iittle rest of the the flour. flour. and and the the rest for 5 5
minutes. minutes. Cut Cut roll out. out. Leave Leave for and roll Dredge with with
flour and cloth, thern on on a a floured cio into rounds with a th, a pastry-
cutter, put them for 1 I hour. hour. temperature for rise in in a a moderate
moderate temperature and and leave leave to to rise in a a fine sugar sugar and and
bake bake in with fine sprinkle with Baste Baste with with butter, butter, sprinkle
slow oyen. oven. jam. stewed fruit fruit or or jam. served with stewed Dampfnudeln
are are usual1y usually served Dampfnudeln I teaspoon thick apricot apricot fillod
with with 1 teaspoon thick rounds can can also also be be filled The The rounds put
them them on a pur6e flavoured seal, put on a rum. Fold Fold and and seal,
flavoured with with rum. purée join downward, downward, and and bake. bake. the
joïn buttered sheet with with the buttered baking baking sheet plssnNur -- Weed
toothed or or pinnated Weed with with toothed DANDELION. PISSENLIT gathered in
yellow flowers, fields from from in the the fields flowers, gathered leaves and
yellow leaves and varieties, such such as as are improved improved varieties, to
March. March. There There are November to plein coeur are cultivated. cultivated.
and très tris hâtif, hdtif,which plein which are coeur amélioré arniliord and young
dandelion salads. leaves are eaten raw, raw, in in salads. are eaten Tender Tender
young dandelion leaves (q.v.). spinach (g.v.). like spinach They They can can also
also be be cooked cooked like

(4 oz., g. (4 yolks, 100 g. melted butter, butter,2 oz., *crrp) sugar,5 egg egg
yolks, sugar,5 cup) melted 2 dl.

Dab

DAB. family, the P/euronectidae Pleuronectidae family, Flat fish fish of of the
rnrlNDE DAB. LIMANDE - Flat (8 and between long, with with scales 12 inches)
inches) long, and 12 20 and 30 cm. cm. (8 between 20 and 30 almost as less
elongated elongated than file. It is is oval oval and and less as rough as as a a
file. the sole. eyes are placed, is coloured, sole. Its right side, where the eyes
with head to to tail; tail; from head line running running from lateral line a
semi-circular lateral with a its digested. and easiJy easily digested. The flesh
flesh is is soft soft and side is white. The its blind blind side is white. The
American very different. different. American dab dab is is not very AU (q.v.) are
plaice (g.v.) suitable for dab. are suitable All recipes for plaice DACE. DARD
family, fish of the Cyprinidae Cyprinidae family, DARD of the - Freshwater fish
also known lt is gravelet or vandoise.lt is or vandoise. as aubourg, grave/et known
in in France as caught in most is rather of central France but it is most of the
rivers of leathery to preparod en m mate/ote. matelote. to eat and is is usually
prepared eat and DAGH (furkish cookery) of shin shin veal DAGH KEBAB cookery) --
Pieces Pieces of KEBAB (Turkish grilled and skewered tomatoes, grilled and with
slices slices of of onions onions and and tomatoes, skewered with sprinkled pilaf
of of rice, rice, okra okra It is is served sprinkled with thyme. It servod with
with pilaf with thyme. (g.v.), (q.v.), or sorne garnish. some other garnish. DAHLIA
plant, originally originally found found in in Mexico, Ornamental plant, -
Ornamental which Dahl of of Antwerp. Antwerp. name to to the the botanist botanist
Dahl which owes owes its its name Dahlia to the the Jerusalem Jerusalem and are are
similar similar to Dahlia tubers tubers are are edible edible and artichoke way as
as in the the same same way in flavour. flavour. They They are are cooked cooked in
artichoke in Jerusalem artichokes (q.v.). artichokes (g.v.). DAIKON. DAÏKON radish
which which can can be be Large Japanese Japanese radish oniroN -- Large eaten and
cooked cooked radish, or or parboiled and eaten raw raw like the the common common
radish, like like turnips. turnips. DAISY. PÂQUERETŒ field flowers. flowers.
nAqurnnrre -- One One of of the the commonest commonest field Its young leaves
salads. Its young leaves and and buds buds are are eaten eaten in in salads. DAME-
BLANCHE (CoH sweet A kind kind of of or dessert) dessert) DAMF-BLAI\CI{E (Cold
sweet or -A Plombières (See ICE ICES.) ICE CREAMS AND ICES.) ice cream. cream. (See
CREAMS AND Plombidres ice DAMPFNUDELN g. (German pâtisserie) pAtisserie)
Ingredients. 500 500 g. DAMPIIJUDELN (German - Ingredients. (18 oz., (18 oz., 4t 4|
cups) (4 oz., cups) sieved g. (4 fine cup) fine sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g.
oz., -t I cup) 303 303

Daïkon
DARIOLE DARIOLE
glaze on oven until the sugar sugar forms a in the the oyen back in a glaze on top.
top. Cut into sections at once, following the lines marked out before baking. The
base of this cake be made made with The base of this cake may may be with flaky
flaky pastry (* inch) trimmings. to 3 mm. trimmings. It need need only be 2 to
inch) thick mm. (i - the (f inch) thick; upper layer about 5 mm. mm. Ci thick; or
both layers may (f inch). thickness of be of equal thickness of 4 mm. (i Creamfor
filling dartois. finely in a Crearn for filling dartois. Pound finely a mortar
mortar 100 g. (4 oz., (4 oz., g. (4 oz., i sugar with 100 g. (4 ~ cup) sugar ~ cup)
with 100 oz., ? cup) blanched "up) 2 eggs to prevent the mixture almonds, adding
mixture from becomg. (4 oz., ing oily. ~ cup) butter to a paste, and oily. Soften
100 100 g. oz.,l a paste, add to add to the the mixture. mixture. Add Add also also
a a smaU small glass of rum rum and, and, if if (3 tablespoons) French pastry
desired, pastry cream desired, 2 tablespoons (3 (see CREAM). CREAM). good cream
ground almonds A good cream can be made by by mixing ground can be with French
pastry pastry cream, cream, and and flavouring the mixture with vanilla vanilla or
rum. rwn. The greatest care must be be taken to seal seal the layers of pastry as
the cream boils during layen during cooking cooking and and tends to ooze out.

(Dehillerin. Phot. Larousse) Dariole Dariole moulds mou Ids (Dehillerin. Larousse)

DARIOLE Small cylindrical cylindrical mould. The name DARIOLE - Small mould. The
name also applies to the cakes baked in these these moulds. Line with Puff pasty
Line dariole dariole moulds mou Ids with pastry (see (see DOUGH) folded folded and
and rolled out 6 times. Fill FiU with Frangipane Frangipane cream (see almonds and
and flavoured (see CREAMS) CREA MS) mixed mixed with with almonds flavoured with
kirsch some other or sorne other liqueur. liqueur. Bake Bake in in a a hot hot
oyen, kirsch or oven, and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar.
DARI\E DARNE - Thick slice of of a large large raw fish. This cut used used to be
called, a dalle (slab). (slab). Darnes Darnes of of fish can be poached, poached,
braised, grilled, grilled, or sautéed saut6ed in butter. butter. This is a typical
recipe. Darne of salmon i à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. DARNE DARNE DE DE SAUMON À
L'Al.rL'ANsAUMoN A CIENNE - Season with with salt salt and and pepper a a darne
darne of salmon cIENNE weighing between between 500 and 600 g. (about l+ 1t lb.)
and place it buttered fireproof fireproof dish. dish. Moisten Moisten with I 1dl.
(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, in a buttered scant j ~ cup) cup) white wine and and
the same quantity of concenconcenfish stock. Add a small sliced onion, a trated
fish a bouquet garni and and the trimmings and peelings of mushrooms, the
mushthemselves to be used Jater rooms themselves later for the garnish. Bring to
the boil on the stove, and then place in the oven. oyen. time. About 10 10 Cook for
20 minutes, basting from time to time. ta king it out of the oven, oyen, add the
peeled and minutes before taking trimmed mushrooms. Drain the salmon, and garnish
with trimmod the mushrooms mushrooms arranged at each end of the dish. Top each
mushroom mushroom with a poached poached oyster, decorated with a strip of truffe
truffle tossed in butter. butter. Surround Surround the salmon salmon with
freshwater crayfish crayfish which which have have been been tossed tossed and and
cooked cooked in in a a courtbouillon (q.v.). Boil down the cooking stock of the
the salmon and thicken butter. Add I 1 tablespoon liqueur liqueur brandy with egg
yolks and butter. and and a a touch of cayenne cayenne pepper. Pour some sorne of
this this sauce sauce round round the salmon and serve the rest separately.
separately.

Dates Dates and date-palm

DATTE DATE. DArrE

grows wild in the area bounded the Chaldeans Chaldeans in antiquity. It grows by
the the Euphrates Euphrates and and the the Nile, Nile, and and is is cultivated in
the cultivated in by desert oases of southern Algeria and Tunisia. The male and

The fruit was known to fruit of the date-palm was The

Dartois (Larousse) (Larousse) Dafiois

on separate trees and and artificial female principles principles grow grow on
separate trees female pollination pollination is therefore necessary. There hard
and dates, the the latter latter being being more There are are hard and soft soft
dates, prized. The best dates from Tunisia, Algeria highly prized. dates come
Tunisia, Algeria come from The best western Asia. They are about the size of a
thumb, with and western
yellowish-red yellowish-red skin, and have a sweet sweet flavour. Excellent dates
are grown grown in in South Carolina and and Arizona (U.S.A.). Since are a
concentrate ofsugar of sugar (73 per cent oftheir of their Since dates are
nourishweight is rapidly assimilable sugar) they are full of nourishquantities of
phosphorus ment. They They contain contain appreciable quantities phosphorus ment.
and calcium and and are rich in in Vitamins A A and and B. B. Sorne and calcium are
rich Some made from dates. alcoholic drinks, including brandy, are made alcoholic
(dessert) fritters. - See FRITTER, Sweet (dessert) frittas. Date fritters DATTES
FOURRÉES - Stone the FoURREEs Stuffed dates (petits fours). DATTEs dates, and stuff
with almond paste flavoured with kirsch or pistachio nut paste. Sprinkle Sprinkle
with crystallised rum, or with pistachio sugar.

DARTOIS - Small Small snacks served served as as an an hors-d'oeuvre hors-d'oeuvre

or

light light main main course. course. For For recipes recipes see see HORS-
D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE,
Hot hors-d'auvre. hors-d'œuvre.

DARTOIS @f,tisserie) (pâtisserie) - Make Make two two layers of Puff pasty pastry
(see (see DOUGH). Fill Fill the the middle of one one layer layer with almond
almond cream and cover coyer with the second layer. Brush the top with egg, leaving
the edges untouched untouchcd or the pastry will wiil not rise
baking. during baking. Lightly mark dividing lines at evenly spaced intervals to
indicate be cut cut later. Bake Bake in a moderate indicate where where the pastry
pastry is to be oven, oyen, then then sprinkle sprinkle the top lightly lightly
with icing sugar sugar and put

DAUBE - Method cooking meat. Although this method DAUBE Method of cooking used for
other meat, as as well weil as poultry and game, the can be used qualification
means a cut term daube without without qualification cut of ofbeef beef cooked term
daube en daube, that is, is, braised in in rod rcd wine wine stock well well
seasoned seasoned en with herbs.

304 304
DECANT DECANT

Stuffed tes dates Stuffed da

(Scarnati) (Scarnori)

The name daube à a dish made with d l'avignonnaise I'avignonnai,te means a in red
red wine. mutton cooked in For of daube see BEEF, BEEF. MUTTON, MUTTON. daube see
kinds of For different different kinds TURKEY, TURKEY, PHEASANT. PHEASANT.
r

(French GOl'ernmem Dauphin6 (French Gorernment Tourisr Tourist Office) Office)

Dauphiné

r::

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Old daubière (Larousse)

DAUBIÈRE earthenware or or DAUBTDRE - Casserole of stoneware, earthenware tinned

copper the cooking cooking of of daubes. copper for for the DAUCUS medicinally
seeds, used used medicinally whose aromatic aromatic seeds, Plant whose - Plant in
preparation of some of sorne now used in the the preparation former times, times,
are are now used in in fonner liqueurs. liqueurs. DA UMONT (À preparing large fish.
The The (A LA) large fish. Method of of preparing DAUMONT LA) - Method Daumonl
quenelles, (see GARNISHES) garnish (see comprises quenelles, Daumont garnish
GARNISHES) comprises soft served crayfish tails, tails, served roe, mushrooms and
freshwater freshwater crayfish soft roe, mushrooms and with with Nantua Nantua
sauce. sauce. DAUPHINÉ DAUPHINE region stretches from the the Alps Alps ttre
Dauphiné Dauphin6 region stretches from - The to ers on Rh6ne Valley. In the north
it it bord borders on the the Lyonnais Lyonnais to the the Rhône Valley. In the
north district area, from from which which it it is is separated separated by by
district and and the the Bresse Bresse area, the any the Rhône. Rh6ne. In In the it
adjoins adjoins Provence Frovence without without any south it the south clear-cut
geographical demarcation demarcation line. line. Its Its north-eastern north-
eastern clear-cut geographical border high, mountainous mountainous Isère Isdre
border is is Savoy on the the edge edge of of the the high, Savoy on valley.
geographical and valley. The and climatic climatic conditions conditions The
diversity diversity of of geographical of produce. The region, explains of its its
produce. The variety of explains the of this this region, the variety Rhône Rh6ne
Valley Valley has has a a climate climate favourable favourable to to the the
cultivation cultivation of of 305 305
- .",,"i:i;T'il;::"re,

(especially peaches peaches and and and fruit fruit trees trees (especially
vegetables and spring spring vegetables famous Rhône Rh6ne bear the the famous its
sunlit sunlit slopes slopes bear apricots), and and its apricots), found. trees are
are to to be be found. south, olive olive trees vineyards. In In the the extreme
extreme south, vineyards. great pasture for rearing great rich pasture for rearing
of the Alps Alps provide rich The The valleys of yield excellent Here, too, too,
are are excellent milk. milk. Here, which yield numbers of of cows cows which
numbers gathered. are gathered. groves from chestnuts are Lyons chestnuts from
which which the the Lyons the the groves yield an an abundant abundant crop. crop.
which yield hazelnut trees trees which There There are are also also hazelnut
prized. The pastures is The is highly prized. honey From from these these upland
upland pastures The The honey places provide trout crayfish. In In sorne some
places trout and and crayfish. lakes and rivers provide lakes and rivers common in
in the the woods. woods. mushrooms are are common trufftes found, and and mushrooms
are found, truffies are shows a a marked marked Regional cookery cookery shows
CuHnary Culinary speciaHties specialities -- Regional gratin dishes. not only only
with with These are are made made not predilection for predilection for gratin
dishes. These porridge, potatoes but chopped porridge, also with with chopped
macaroni and potatoes but also macaroni and crayfish tails. tails. cipes and and
crayfish white swedes, cèpes white beet, beet, swedes, Vienne enjoy enjoy a a and
those those of of Vienne Daubes Daubes are favourite dishes dishes and are
favourite this specialities of of this the specialities Among the considerable
reputation. Among considerable reputation. quails; grillades marinière; thrush
difarde; baby baby qua region ils ; thrush marinidre; défarde; region are are
grillades pdtis des salmis ofthrush; of thrush; des Alpes; Alpes; salmis
withjuniper thrush pâtés berries; thrush with juniper berries; pickled truffies de
Nyons; Nyons; and ar'd pickled lhrush; truffies de pickled the excellent excellent
pickled thrush: the quails. Chabeuil Chabeuil quails. provide milk pastures provide
milk alpine pastures The farms in in these these alpine The dairy dairy farms
Saintwhich cheeses: Sassenage, Sassenage, Saintto manufacture manufacture cheeses:
is used used to which is and the the white Marcellin, Briangon and white Pelvoux,
Briançon Marcellin, Champoléon, Champol6on, Pelvoux, (a cheese fermented
buttennilk). buttermilk). cheese, made from from fermented tomme (a cheese made
cheese, tomme pastry is pogne, an The is the the pogne, an immense immense regional
pastry characteristic regional The characteristic pumpkin. tart lied in and in in
autumn autumn with with pumpkin. filled with fruit fruit and tart fi in summer
summer with pogne ln pogne is brioche. The The pogne of brioche. a kind kind of is
a area, a a pOfine In the the Drôme Drdme area, Among the the of high reputation.
reputation. Among an especially especially high of Romans Romans enjoys enjoys an
pognes and the sweet and meringues, meringues, the Valence pognes sweet
specialities specialities are are Valence honey Voiron and and the the sweetmeats
of of Voiron of Gap, Gap, the the sweelmeals honey tourons tourons of famous of
Montélimar. Montelimar. famous nougul nougat of produce some highly Wines very
highly some very slopes produce Rh6ne slopes Wines -- The The Rhône white reputed
ch as Hermitage and and Crozes; Crozes; white of Hennitage such as those those of
wines, su reputed wines, Die. and de Die. famous Clairette Clairette de the famous
Hermitage and and the and red red Hermitage
DAUPHINE (A LA) given to several different different Name given to several DAUPHINE
(À LA) -- Name potato preparation preparation dishes. for aa potato it is is used
used for dishes. Most Most commonly commonly it paste. This made potato mixture
This mixture and and chou chou paste. made from from duchess duchess potato (See
POT mixture Adeep-fried. (See POTAinto balls balls and and deep-fried. mixture is
is shaped shaped into TOES.) TOES.) DAUPHINOISE preparing potatoes potatoes (A LA)
Method of of preparing DAUPHINOISE (À LA) -- Method (q.v.). (q.v.). DECANT. pour
any liquid from from one cono6caNrsR -- To any liquid one conDECANT. DÉCANTER To
pour
DECTZE DECIZE

+
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tails

Stufied carp, Grotln ol cra)rfish

Bourqoin \ \-" ^IaTi

savoY

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'Pickled rruffles. i.

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Vineyards ~

Gastronomic Gastronomie map map of o( Dauphin€ Da uphiné

tainer tainer into ioto another. another. Wine Wine is is decanted decanted into
into a a carafe carafe to to get get rid rîd of of the the deposit deposit formed
formed at at the the bottom bottom of of the the wine wine bottle. bottle.
Decanting Decanting has has the the added added advantage advantage of of oxidising
oxidising the the wine. wÎne. This This operation operation must must be be carried
carried out out with with great great care, care, traintraining on the the carafe
carafe to to make make sure sure that tbat the the wine wine is is clear, clear,
ing a a light light on and and allowing allowing as as little litlle as as possible
possible of of the the residue residue to 10 get get in. in. Butter is also said
Butter is also said to to be be decantod decanted when when it it is is melted
mehed and and purified purified by by being being transferred transferred from from
one one container container to to another. aoother. DECIZE DECIZE - See See CHEESE.
CHEESE. DECOC:TION. DECOCTION. n6cocnoN DÉCOCTION - Process Process of of boiling
boiling a a solid solid for for a a period period in io water. water. Clear Clear
soup soup is is a a decoction deeoction of of meat. meal. The The decoction
deeoction of of vegetable vegetable matter matter has has the the disadvantage
disadvantage of of sap sapplng ping many many of of its ils nutritive nutritive
properties properties and and evaporating evaporating its its volatile elements.
volatile elements.
body body by by the the disintegration disintegration of of its i15 elements.
elements.

DECOMPOSITION. DECOMPOSITION. ofcorrlposlrroN DÉCOMPOSITION

Destruction DestructÎon of of a a

DEEP-FRYING. DEEP-FRYING. rnrruns FRITURE - Immersing Immersing foods foods in in a

a large, large, deep deep pan pan of of boiling boiling fat. fat. The The French
French term term for for deep-frying deep-fryîng is is friture, friture, a a word
word also also applied applied to to the the fat fat used used in in deep-frying.
deep-frying. 11 the great kitchens of a hotel or restaurant, deep-frying In the
great kitchens of a hotel or restaurant, deep-frying is is almost almost alwaya
always carried carried out out successfully, successfully, but but this this cannot
cannot bi be said of home home cooking, cooking, where where more more often often
than than not not the the said of methods methods and and ingredients ingredients
used used are are quite quite unsuitable. unsuitable.

In In hotel hotel kitchens kilchens a a large large number number of of different

fats fats are available. available. These These are are chosen chosen with with
care and used lavishlv. lavishly. In In private private households, households, the
the fats faIs are are not not always aJways pure, pure, and, and, for for reasons
reasons of of economy, economy, the the housewife housewife uses uses her ner fats
fats too tao sparingly. sparingly. This This is is false false economy. eeonomy.
Deep-frying Deep-frying can can only only be be successful successful if if a a
great great deal deaJ of of fat fal is is used. used. The The more more fat fat the
the less less wastg waste, since, since, where where too too little litlle fat fat
is is used, used. it il is is absorbed absorbed into into the the food food and and
the the pieces pieces stick stick to to one one another anolner and and become
become soggy. soggy. Food Food frid fried in in abundant abundant fat fat is is
crisp, crisp, firm firm and and cooked cooked all aU through. through. It It is is
properly properly sealed sealed at at the the outset outset and and therefore
therefore does does not not absorb absorb the the fat. fat. There There must must
be be ample ample space space in in the the cooking eooking utensil utensil which
which should snould be be made made in in a a single single piece, piece, of of
sheet-iron sheet-iron or or hammered hammered copper. copper. As As it it is is
gften often necessary necessary to to fry fry a a number number of of thinp things
at al the the same same time, time, it it is is desirable desirable to to have have
at at least least two two such such pans pans in Ln the tne kitchen. kitchen. One
One of ofthese these should snould be be kept kept exclusively exclusively for for
fish. fish. Other Other necessary necessary equipment equipment for for deep-frying
deep-frying are are grids, grids, baskets baskets and and skimmers. skimmers. The
The pan pan must must be be carefully carefully cleaned cleaned each eaeh time time
it it is is used, u~, inside inside and and out. out. The The fat fat should should
be be strained strained and and pourod poured back back into into the the pan pan
for for storage. storage. Fats Fats for for deepfrying. deep-frying. LA LA cRArssE
GRAISSE DE DE FRrruRE FRITURE- The The best best fat fat to to uso use in in all
ail deep-frying deep-frying is is beef beef kidney kidney fat fat (suet), (suet),
clarified c1arified and and purified purified with with scrupulous scrupulous care.
care. This This fat fat is is odourless odourless and and can can be be heated hea
ted up up to to 180'C. 180 a C. (350'F.) (350°F,) without wi thout burnihg.
burning. If If it il
306 306
DEEP-FRYING
carefully looked after, it can be used used over and and over again. is carefully A
little veal fat can be added if desired, desired. but veal veal fat must A quickly.
An not used alone, very quickly. not be be used alone, since since it it
deteriorates very alternative household household fat fat can can be alternative
mixing ox be prepared by by mixing kidney-fat with an equal equal quantity of lard
lard or or oil, but but these with an mixtures, apart from from being being more
expensive, cannot cannot be more expensive, mixtures, apart heated to to tbe high
degree without the same same higb without burning, burning, nor beated nor can they
be be used used again much. Mutton fat fat should should never they never be again
as as much. used in in deep-frying, deep-frying, since since it it impregnates the
the food food witb with a used taste of tallow. Among the fats fats which which are
are suitable suitable for for frying frying certain Among the fish, fritters, which
is suitable for fish, special foods are olive oil, wbich rice and cream croquettes,
etc; and cream etc; c1arified clarified butter which which may rice be used used in
in the flavoured sweets; the preparation be preparation of delicately flavoured and
groundnut (peanut) oil and and and cereal oils. cheaper vegetable oils oils'include
The cheaper inc1ude various types of cocoquite suitable in certain cases, but are
nut butter. butter. They are are quite poor substitute for ox kidney fat. still a
poor fat of duck, The fat duck, goose and and other other fat fat poultry, as as
weil well as The butter for browning browning or in the preparalard, may be used
with butter tion of roux, but ox kidney is more efficient. In his book, le le
Cuisinier Cuisinier praticien, praticien, Reculet says: In amount of fat fat used
frying must must always depend in frying 'The amount used in greater the upon the
the size object to fried; the upon size of of the the object to be be fried; the
greater liquid, the more it can hold hold the heat, and and it it is quantity of
liquid, able to to counteract the cooling caused by by the the immersion imrhersion
of able and the moisture given off during cooking. cooking. the object and
desirable to have have two lots of of cooking cooking 'In a busy kitchen it is
desirable fat, one one white white and fresh or at and one one brown. brown. The
white fat fat is is fresh fat, used: it should should be used used for ail all
deep-frying deep-frying except least little used: fish. The brown fat, darkened by
long long service should be for fish. all cases. cases. used for fish, though good
white fat is preferable in ail 'There are several signs to be seen when frying-oil
becomes hot: l. A slight tremor on the surface. 1. characteristic smell. 2. A
strong characteristic vapour given off by the fat. 3. A dry whitish vapour fat by
adding a drop of water to it or Test the heat of the fat purified fat into it. If
dipping any substance other than purified If the by dipping sound is is sharp sharp
and and high, high, the the fat fat is is hot enough enough for for frying.' sound
proportion of Vegetables and fruit, which which have have a a high high proportion
and fruit, Vegetables fried in moderately fat. This This applies water in them, are
are fried moderately hot fat. applies and other large foodstuffs particularly to
potatoes. Fish and foodstuffs are

also deep-fried deep-frid in in moderately hot hot fat; fat; they also not be they
would not through if they were sealed cooked right througb sealed at once by
contact a beat. heat. with too intense a Very hot fat fat is is used used for
foodstuffs which must be Very be sealed example, anything anything dipped dipped in
in egg egg and and breadinstantly, for example, crumbs or batter. This also applies
to precooked foods sucb such croquettes and very small foodstuffs which must be
sealed as croquettes immediately. Soufflé Souffi6 potatoes must must be dropped
into into very immediately. be dropped hot fat after having first been cooked in
moderately hot fat. theory ofdeep-frying: This was Brillat-Savarin's theOl"y of
deep-frying: 'Not all liquids exposed to the action of of fire can absorb absorb
the 'N ot allliquids same amount heat. Thus, amount of of heat. Thus, one one may
may with with impunity impunity dip same into boiling spirits of wine, wine, where
where one one would one's finger finger into boiling spirits and still more hastily
from withdraw it hastily from brandy, and water, while water, while any any contact
contact with with boiling boiling oil oil would cause cause an painful blister,
since oil hold at blister, since oil can can hold at least least three intensely
painful as much heat as as water. muchheat times as is as a a result of these
differences differences that hot liquids act in 'It is different ways ways upon the
foodstuffs which which are are immersed immersed in upon the different cookod in in
water are are softened softened and and reduced reduced by them. Those cooked
boiling; soups soups and and extracts are their extracts are their by-products. by-
products. Foods boiling; hand, are compressed; fat, on the other hand, compressed;
they take cooked in fat, a dark col colouring, and in the end become charred. on a
ou ring, and 'In the the first first case, case, water dissolves dissolves and and
absorbs 'In into itsetf absorbs into itself cookod in it; the inherent juices of
the foods cooked it; in in the second, juices are preserved intact because because
they are are insoluble in the juices If fried fried foods eventuaIJy eventually
become desiccated it is because oil. If because heat has has evaporated ail to heat
all the the moisture moisture in over-exposure to them. 'These two are known
different 'These known by by different two methods of cooking cooking are names,
and fat is and the the process of boiling foodstuffs in oil oil or fat asfrying.
known as frying. 'The virtue of good frying lies lies in in a a kind kind of shell
shell formed 'The prevents the fat round the food, food, which fat from penetrating
it which prevents round seals the juices and seaJs inside. These juices are thus
and juices inside. juices are thus cooked flavour of within the shell so that
preserved. that the full flavour of the food is preserved. a sufficient degree of
The boiling liquid must have attained a heat for for its action action to to be
reach this point, heat be instantaneous; to reach it must be heated for quite a
long time over a very hot flame. quick frying or for used only for very quick Olive
oil should be used processes which which do do not heat. This is processes not
require great heat. is because because olive oil, oil, if heated for a a long long
time, develops olive develops an unpleasant taste which it is difficult to
eradicate.' (Physiologie du Goût.) Gofrt.\

Deep-frying basket Deep-frying (Dehillerin. Phot. Larousse) (Dehillerin. Larousse)

Electric deep-frying equipment, Electric deep-frying equipment, commercial

commercial Photothique E.D.F.) E. D.F.) (Brigaud. Phot. Photothèque

307
DEEP.FRYING DEEP-FRYING BASKET BASKET
DEEP-FRYING crurrn in which DEEP-FRYING BASKET. GRILLE - Wire utensil in food liftd
can be b€ lifted Fried foods can food is contained for deep-frying. Fried out of
the fat in this utensil.

joint of away sorne some of of the the fat fat which which forms forms a away a
coating coating on on a of a joint meat. Ali All fat fat thus removed, whether thus
removed, whether from from liquids liquids or meat. or meat meat of mutton or or
lamb) lamb) must must be (except that of It can be clarified. clarified.It can then
then be used used for for deep-frying. be
DEGRAISSIS in French fat DÉGRAISSIS Term used used in French cookery cookery for
for the the fat - Term skimmed skimmed off off clear clear soup, soup, stock,
stock, or This fat, fat, which which or sauce. sauce. This 'economy fat', must must
be be clarified, is is known known in in France France as as 'economy fat', and and
is fat. is used to fry certain vegetables, or or as as deep-frying deep-frying fat.

DEHYDRATING. ofsttyDRArER DEHYDRATING. DÉSHYDRATER

(q.v.).

Synonym for drying drying Synonym for

Deer Deer on display in shop shop window window

DEER. cERF CERF DEER.

one year, year, and and from from then then on on becomes more and more tough. one
It is is particularly particularly indigestible indigestible and even ev en
poisonous poisonous when the the It brought down after a long long chase. chase.
deer has has been been brought deer Ali methods methods of preparation preparation
given given for for the the buck buck are All are applicable to to the the doe.
doe. applicable

- Wild -

mammal whose whose flesh flesh is tender up up to mammal

DEFRUTUM - Latin term tenu used used by Apicius and and found found in DEFRUTUM to
designate designate grape grape juice juice reduced reduced by
evaporaevaporaancient recipes recipes to ancient tion to to a a third third of of
its its volume. volume. This This juice juice was was widely used used in in tion
Roman cookery. cookery. Roman DÉGLAÇAGE - Technical Technical term term in in
French cookery cookery for the the DfGLACAGE
operation of of pouring pouring any any liquid liquid into into the pan pan in in
which which food operation in butter butter or or other other fat. fat. has been
been cooked cooked in has Wine is is used used for for this this purpose, purpose,
heated heated and and stirred stirred in in the the Wine pan so so that that all
ail the the concentrated concentrated juices juices are are incorporated
incorporated into into pan it. White White or or brown brown stocks, stocks, cream,
cream, vinegar, vinegar, or or alcohol alcohol can can it. also be be used. used.
also

(breakDÉJEUNER DEJEUNER In France, France, the the first meal of of the the day day
(breakfirst meal - In (i.e. little fast) dijeuner (i.e. fast) is is called called
the the petit déjeuner dijeuner or premier déjeuner little or distinguish it or
first first déjeuner) dijeuner) to to distinguish it from from déjeuner, dijeuner,
which which is is taken in in the middle of the day. day. The The institution
institution of of this midday meal back to to the meal dates this midday dates back
the French Revolution. Revolution. In the eighteenth the main meal century the main
meal eighteenth century, (dinner) was of of the the day, day, dîner diner (dinner)
was taken first at at midday midday and and taken first later p.m. The déjeuner,
later at I p.m. at 1 dijeuner, taken taken upon waking, waking, consisted consisted
of a a soup or coffee with milk. The Constituent bly began its deliberations
Assembly Constituent Assem deliberations at at about about midday, to p.m. It was,
at about 6 6 p.m. therefore, necessary necessary to rise at was, therefore, to
change the dinner hour hour to to 6 p.m., and and since since the the members could
not sit sit fasting, fasting they could not they were were obliged obliged to to
take take a a second second breakfast at at II I I a.m. a.m. This This second
second déjeuner dijeuner was was more more subsubstantial than the first and the
first and included eggs and and cold cold meat. meat. According ( I 822-1 896)
According to the the Goncourt Goncourt brothers, Edmond (1822-1896) and (1830-
1870), it Handy who and Jules Jules (1830-1870), it was was Mme. Mme. Handy who
invented invented fork fork luncheons, luncheons, by setting setting out cutlets,
cutlets, kidneys and and sausages sausages on a her café on a buffet buffet in in
her caf6 on on the the boulevards the opposite the boulevards opposite Comédie-
Italienne, pressing her and pressing Com6die-Italienne, and her clients clients to
to take take these these savouries savouries with their meal. Nowadays, in in
France, France, déjeuner has largely largely usurped usurped the ddjeuner has the
place of the original dîner. place lt includes diner. It includes the the same same
dishes dishes and and is eaten later and is and later in the day. day. in the The
experts maintain maintain that The experts that a a substantial dinner dinner does
not does not necessarily cause provided that restless night, night, provided that
there necessarily cause a a restless there is is a a enough interval interval
between long enough dinner and and going to and between dinner to bed, bed, and
because too large a makes work in the because too large a lunch makes diffcult in
the afterafterwork difficult noon, more and and more people people are habit are
following the the British British habit of having a substantial breakfast followed
followed by a a light light lunch.

pretentious maîtres in the pretentious maitres d'hôtel d'h6tel in the drawing

drawing up up of of their their menus. menus. Having no no precise precise culinary
Having culinary meaning, meaning, the the word word (which implies delectability),
delectability), is implies is exploited exploited for for its very vagueness, its
very vagueness, implying in in ad vance that implying advance that the the dish
dish offered offered is is delectable, delectable, though, in fact, ail is to to
put though, put the patron on all it it does does is the wary wary patron his on
his guard.

DÉLICE strictly means means a a DELICE This word, word, which which in in French
French strictly - This certain type type of pastry, is is nowadays certain of
pastry, nowadays misused misused by some by sorne

DÉGLACER - Technical Technical term term in in French French cookery cookery for
for the the DfGLACER
dilution of of the the concentrated concentrated juices juices in in a a pan pan in
in which which meat, meat, dilution or fish fish has has been been roasted,
roasted, braised braised or or fried. fried. poultry, game game or poultry, White
or or red red wine, wine, Madeira Madeira or or some sorne other other heavy heavy
wine, wine, clear clear White and sometimss sometimt;s cream cream are are used.
used. soup, stock stock and soup, DÉGORGER - Term Term used used in in French
French cookery cookery meaning meaning to to DEG{ORGER of time time in in cold cold
water water to to free free soak food food for for a a variable variable length
length of soak it from from impurities. impurities. Thus, Thus, calves' calves'
heads heads and and sweetbreads sweetbreads are are it soaked in in water water to
to make make them them very very white. white. soaked The term term is is also also
used used of of the the operation operation of of clearing clearing ChamChamThe
pagne bottles bottles of of the the impurities impurities containod contained in in
the the wine. wine. pagne

DEMI - In In English the term term 'ha Ir is glass of 'half DEMI a glass English
the is used used of of a of beer beer holding approximately approximately 3 3 dl.
dl. (t (| pint, pint, li holding lf cups). cups). France, a a demi demi is is a
glass of In France, In a glass holding about of beer beer also also holding about
3 dl. dl. (+ pint, pint, 3

<t It cups) cups) which get approxil| means that which means that patrons get
approximately three demis to to a a litre. litre. (See (See TANKARD mately thre,
demis TANKARD OR OR BEERBEERGLASS.) GLASS.)
DEMI-DEUIL G (À DEMI-DEUtr lated, means means 'in 'in lated,
sauce. sauce. Food cooked cooked in in Food and garnished garnished with with and
this way way is is dressed dressed with suprAme sauce sauce this with suprême
truffies. trumes.

LA) - This (which, literally literally transterm (which, transLA) - This term half-
mourning') is is applied mainly to to half-mourning') applied mainly poultry and
and veal veal sweetbreads poached poultry poached in a white sweetbreads braised
braisd in a white

DÉGRAISSER - Term Term in in French French cookery cookery meaning meaning to to

skim skim DEGRAISSER off excess excess fat fat which which forms forms on on the
the surface surface of of a a liquid liquid (clear (clear off soup, sauce, sauce,
etc.). etc.). The The term term is is also also used used to to describe describe
cutting cutting soup,
308 308

DEMIDOFF - Name of a princely Russian DEMIDOIF a princely Russian farnily. family.

Prince Prince - Name of
Anatole Demidoff, Demidoff, who who married married Princess Princess Mathilde,
Anatole Mathilde, daughter daughter of King King J6rdme Jérôme Bonaparte Bonaparte
(but (but was was soon soon divorced), divorced), was of was one one of the the
most most celebrated celebrated gastronomes gastronomes of of the of the Second
Second Empire. Empire.
DEMI-ESPAGNOLE DEMI-ESPAGNOLE

(Boucher) d6jeuner (Boucher) Le petit déjeuner

preparing large For this this reason, reason, an an elaborate method For method of
of preparing poultry was (See CHICKEN, called after after bim. him. (See poultry
was called CHICKEN, Chicken Demidoff.) DEMI-ESPAGNOLE Car6me means DEMI-ESPAGNOLE -
By demi-espagnole, Carême what today is called called demi-glace (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). espagnole into a 'Pour half the grande espagnole a saucepan with the clear
chicken soup to which have been of good c1ear same volume of added the the
trimmings and truffies.' added trimmings of mushrooms and truffies.' Carême Car6me
preparation ofthis instructions for the preparation of this soup: adds instructions
'This consommé consomm6 is is made with the carcases 'T:lis carcases and giblets of
(too much salt good stock (too chickens, moistened salt must 2 chickens, moistened
with good be particularly avoided). avoided). Next, Next, add add a a carrot,
carrot, a a couple be couple of
309

simmer. onions, and, after having skimmed it carefully, let it simmer. About 2 2
hours hours later, later, strain strain it it through through muslin or sieve About
muslin or without pressure. Leave to to stand, stand, and and strain strain
thoroughly. thoroughly. without pressure. Leave and stir with a a special 'Put the
saucepan on a a strong heat and bubbling ail all over. espagnole en spoon until the
liquid is bubbling espagnob wood wooden remove skim carefully carefully and rem
Move it to the corner of ove of the stove; skim a full 45 minutes. every trace of
fat. fat. In this state, leave it for a and replace replace the stock on on the
strong heat. Skim off the the fat, fat, and it from spoon to prevent it a wooden
Stir the espagnole wood en spoon espagnole with a of the boiling which will will
otherwise happen happen because of boiling over, over, which possible as far far as
as possible to preserve very preserve as very rapid rapid boiling necessary to the
essence which is the sauce. a c1oth.' cloth.' reduced, strain strtrin through a
When it is is suitably suitably reduced,
DEMI-GLACE DEMI-GLACE
sauce made made by and skimDEMI-GLACE by boiling and - Brown sauce estoufade, and
mixing in wrute white stock, estouffade, ming ming espagnole sauce and clear soup.
or c1ear Madeira or sherry. This sauce sauce is is usually usuallv flavoured
flavoured with with Madeira sherrv. This SAUCE.) UCE.) (See SA especially
prescribed; not too much meat or fatty foods and especially not too much bread.
Sometimes Sometimes a diet is not a restorative diet is inditoo much to the the
type type of cated. Each Each case case must be treated according to be treated
cated. person has, how efficient his his digestive digestive prodermatitis the the
person dermatitis has, how ofhealth. cesses are, and his general state of health.
used in cookery for for the removal DÉROBER DEROBER - French term used of the skins
of shelled broad beans. and other also mean It mean the peeling of potatoes and It
can the peeling of potatoes can also vegetables.

DEMI-JOHN. bottle.

DAME-JEANT.IE DAME-JEANNE

glass Larse earthenware or or glass - Large

DEMI-SEL CHEESE. - See CHEESE.

can mean DEMI-TASSE a demi-tasse can mean either a DEMI-TASSE ln France a - In
small cup or a cup of of black coffee. very smaU

French cookery cookery denoting denoting the the reDÉNERVER in French DENERVER -
Term in gristle, etc. etc. from of tendons, tendons, membranes, membranes, gristle,
from meat, moval moval of poultry, game, etc.

DEMER (EN) sometimes called en denier DENIER - Potato crisps are sometimes in
France because because they are are cut cut in the shape of a a coin. in coin. (See
POTATOES.) POTATOES.) neNsruirnr -- Instrument DENSIMETER. DENSIMÈTRE Instrument
designed DENSIMETER. designed to measure the density of liquids. Anometers and
measure the density alcoholoand alcoholometers are are densimeters densimeters
constant constant in weight but variable in meters in weight but variable glass rod
volume, made made in the form a hollow glass rod weighted in the form of a volume,
rod sinks sinks into the liquid and with lead or mercury. The rod and the recorded
by means of a is recorded scale marked on the side. density is a scale a great many
many types of densimeter for for different different There are a types of liquid.
These are usually sold with conversion tables indicating the allowances allowances
to to be made for for temperature, and readings to to be converted to to other
scales. enabling the readings

D6saugiers M.-A. Désaugiers (1772-1821) (1772-1827)

DENSIY. DENSI"IÉ osNsrrE Degree of consistence DENSITY. consistence of a a body

body or - Degree of the mass mass to the volume, substance, measured by the ratio
of the quantity of matter in a unit unit of bulk. bulk. In In practice, in a or by
the to the this is the ratio of the weight of a a volume of a a body body to trus
of the same volume of weight of of distilled water at a temperature (39.2"F.). The
4'C. (39.2°F.). of 4°C. with special The rneasuring of density density with of
measuring of readily to assess the alcohol instruments makes it possible readily to
assess of a liquid, the sugar content of content of of a syrup, syrup, etc.
(Wolves'fang) in France DENT -DE-LOUPS (Wolves' fang) DENT-DE-LOUPS - Name given in
of decorative motif motif used to several kinds of used in the presentation of
dishes: dishes: of l. Slices of sandwich bread cut into triangles and and fried
friod in 1. garnish a number of butter or oil. These are used to garnish butter of
different different dishes. of jelly, 2. Triangles cut out of strips of 2. jelly,
used used to garnish cold dishes. Mediterranean fish. fish. The ih" common opNrf
DENTEX. DENTEX. DEN"IÉ ro^ o, dentex - Mediterranean large-eyed a length of up to I
m. m. (40 inches); the large-eyed can to 1 can attain a (20 inches). to about about
50 50 cm. cm. (20 inches). Prepare Prepare as as for dentex dmtex grows to sea
bream (q.v.). p6NurRrrroN Nutritional disorder that DENUTRITION. DÉNUTRITION -
Nutritional occurs when when deassimilation exceeds exceeds assimilation.
assimilation. occurs

Df,SAUGIERS Marc-Antoine Désaugiers, D6saugiers, a DÉSAUGIERS a talented - Marc-

Antoine (Yar) in satirical songs, was was born at at Fr6jus in 1772 writer of
satirical Fréjus (Var) in 1827. 1827. and died in Paris in Drlsaugiers, immortal
author author of of M. et Mme. Denis, can be Désaugiers, gastronomic poets, for he
numbered among among the he wrote wrote a numbered the gastronomic poets, for the
table. table. Sorne great many joys of the many songs extolling the joys Some of
forefathers' these these songs are still sung today, when, as in our forefathers'
singing a song over time, each guest at table takes his turn at singing the
dessert. dessert. He He was was secretary secretary of of the the Caveau Caveau
moderne, moderne, a the gastronomic and and also also somewhat bacchanaFrench
literary, gastronomic bacchanahis will, in speaking, in society. He wrote wrote rus
in a a manner of speaking, lian society. (Eating Song). his Chanson à d manger
(Eating the la st couplet of his last
me frappe Je frappe Je veux que la mort me Au milieu d'un grand repas; Qu'on Qu'on
m'enterre sous la nappe Entre quatre larges plats, Et que sur ma tombe on mette

inscription : Cette courte inscription: Ie premier polte poète Ci-gît Ci-gtt le

Mort d'une indigestion. indigestion.

n6srtnrm. grain or remove excess oil DE-OIL. DÉSHUILER To remove oil from from
grain - To some chemical process. flour, either by pressure or by sorne
DERBY preparing large poultry (see CHICK- Method of preparing d la Derby). It was
devised by M. Jean Giroix EN, Chicken à la Derby). when he was in charge of the
kitchens of the Hotel de Paris at Monte-Carlo.

1 I pray that death may strike me middle of of a a large meal. ln In the middle 1 I
wish to be buried under the tablec10th tablecloth Between four large dishes. I
desire that this short inscription And 1 engraved on my tombstone Should be
engraved Here lies the first poet Ever to die of indigestion. indigestion.
actors of of the ComédieDESESSARTS DESESSARTS of the greatest actors Com6die- One
of in 1740 1740 and at Langres Française in his his day. Langres in Frangaise in
day. He was was born at also a celebrated celebratod gastronome. died at Barèges
Bareges in in 1793. He was also I'Histoire des 'Desessarts,' says says Emile Emile
Deschanel Deschanel in 'Desessarts,' in l'Histoire his size, size, but but he an
appetite worthy of rus comédiens, 'had an he was comidiens,'had a connoisseur. He
was was very witty. witty. A good dinner sent also a the qualities his spirits
soaring. He would would analyse elegantly the dish, and, and, in in order order to
to describe describe them more vividly, of each dish, amusin gly bizarre words.
coin amusingly would coin

psRMlros DERMATffIS. DERMATOSE Skin infection. infection. Such Such comDERMATITIS.

- Skin plaints have have led led to food restrictions to food restrictions because
certain certain foods etc.) cause cause skin skin eruptions (strawberries,
shellfish, etc.) eruptions in in sorne some people. people ought ought to to avoid
whatever upsets them people. These people or endeavour to desensitise themselves
but it is unnecessary unnecessary to to aU all sufferers from from skin disorders.
to forbid such foods to In most dermatitis a a moderate diet is is generally ln
most cases of dermatitis
310
DEVILLED DEVILLED 'If 'If his his fellow-diners fellow-diners were were amiable and
good trenchennen, trenchermen, the the sybarite sybarite gaiety gaiety of of
Desessarts Desessarts would wou Id express express itself itself lyrically
lyrically in in poetic poetic phrases phrases such as as "the "the boar, boar,
prince prince of of the forests, forests,
pdti".' pâté".'
whose whose ferocious ferocious pride pride is is humbled hum bled when when he is
is baked baked in a
Desessarts Desessarts was, was, like like all ail gourmets, gourmets, a splendid
fellow. His His talent talent was was as as straightforward as as his his
character. character. Infectious Infectious gaiety bonhomie were were distinctive
traits traits both both of of gaiety mixed mixed with bonhomre his his art art and
and his his disposition. disposition.

DESICCATION. DESICCATION. nessrccArroN DESSICCATION - Process Process of of drying

drying or dehydrating dehydrating foodstuffs. foodstuffs. (See (See PRESERVATION
PRESERVATION OF OF FOOD.) FOOD.)
DESSERT DESSERT - Last Last course course of of a meal. meal. Nowadays, Nowadays,
in France, France, dessert dessert comprises comprises cheese, cheese, sweet sweet
dishes dishes (which (which were were formerly formerly served served before before
the the dessert) dessert) and and fruit. fruit. In ln former former times times at
at great great banquets, banquets, dessert, dessert, which which was was the the

fifth course course of the meal, was often presented in magnificent magnificent
style. Large set pieces fashioned in pastry, described described often and in great
detail by Car6me, Carême, whose accounts accounts are are accomaccompanied by
splendid illustrations, were placed placed on the table at the beginning of of the
meal. These owed more to architecture architecture than than to to the the art art
of cooking, and and had had a a purely decorative function. function. Just before
berore the sweet sweet course, course, a multitude of sweets were elegantly
arranged on the table with the set pieces, for every every ceremonial table table
was laid in accordance accordance with with a detailed plan. The dishes had to
harmonise with gold plate, crystal, magnificent magnificent baskets baskets of
fruit, fruit, and and the the tall taU candelabra: candelabra: a magnificent
magnificent spectacle. Flowers decoration. Fruit too, is Flowers are used today for
table decoration. often placed placed on the table before before the beginning
beginning of the meal and and this, too, too, contributes to its its embellishment.
embellishment. Sweets, hot or cold, are served as dessert after the cheese cheese

;:il:ii:i:s
:
::::]]:::i :::::
::

fi:::i:
irj::i.i

l;ir=

ilfi*i

1::i'ii:i

]: ]:

r :: ::!
,.:.:::,ir.::i,il

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!^f!

llffi

'iiffi

Dessert Dessert (after (aCterCar€me, Carême, /e le Confturier Confiturier royal)

royal)

in France. France. Although Although less Jess ostentatious ostentatious than than
in in former former times, times, in modem desserts desserts are are no no less
less sumptuous sumptuous or or succulent. succulent. modern

DESSERTE - French French term term for for food food that that has has been been
prepared prepared DESSERTE but not not used. used. In In certain certain French
French restaurants, restaurants, such such food food (apart (apart but from a a few
few items) items) belongs belongs to to the the waiters. waiters. from
DETREMPE DÉTREMPE - Technical Technical term term in in confectionery confectionery
meaniqg meanin~ a a mixture of of flour fiour and and water water to to be be used
used in in the the preparation preparation of of mixture
pastries. pas tries. For example, example, faire faire Ia la ddtrempe détrempe du
du feuilletage feuilletage is is the the term tem For used for for making making
the the flour-and-water fiour-and-water mixture mixture of offlaky fiaky pastry.
pastry. used

DEVILFISH. nLc,sLE DIABLE DE DE MER MER - Anglerfish, Anglerfish, found found on on

the the DEVILFISH. North North American American and and European European sides
sides of of the the Atlantic. Atlantic. It It is is also also sometimes sometimes
known known as as sea-frog, sea-frog, miller's miller's thumb, thumb, and
bull-head. bull-head. In In the the U.S.A. U .S.A. it it is is known known as
asgoose goosefish, fish, all-mouth all-mouth monkfish, monkfish,
andfishing fishingfrog. frog. and

DEVILLED. A À L,c, LA DIABLE DIABLE - Name Name given given to to a a method method
of of DEVILLED. preparation, especially especially suitable suitable for for
poultry. poultry. The The bird bird is is slit slit preparation,
Modern Moderndessert dessertin inFrance France (O r.ft v r e r ie CChristofle)
(Orfèvrerie hr i s t ofl e)

cooking it it is is sprinkled sprinkled with with fresh fresh breadcrumbs

breadcrumbs and and After cooking After browned under under the the grill. grill.
browned
311 3ll

open along along the the back, back, spread spread out out flat, fiat, seasoned,
seasoned, and and grilled. grilled. open
DEXTRIN DEXTRIN
Poultry cooked cooked in in this this way way should should be served with beserved
with Diable Diable Poultry (see SA sauce (see SAUCE). sauce UCE). gum). DEXTRINE
DEXTRIN (British nrxrRrNE - - Powdery Powdery substance, substance, @ritish gum).
DEXTRIN yellowish, obtained white or or slightly slightly yeIJowish, obtained by by
splitting splitting starch. starch. white When mixed mixed with with water water it
it forms forms aa thick, paste. thick, viscous viscouspaste. When DIABLOTINS -
-Slices Slicesof ofFrench French bread (]inch) breadabout about55mm. mm.(i
DIABLOTINS inch) thick,covered coveredwith withaa mixture mixtureof ofthick
thickbéchamel bichamelsauce thick, sauce gratedcheese flavoured with withgrated
pepper,sprinkled cheeseand andcayenne flavoured cayennepepper, sprinkled
gratedParmesan withgrated Parmesan cheese cheeseand andbrowned. with browned.They
Theyare areserved served with soup. soup. with paper cases Chocolates sold soldin
inpaper casesand Chocolates andaccompanied accompanied by byaa motto are arealso
alsocalled calleddiablotins. diablotins. motto

DEXTROSE -- Scientific glucose, so Scientific name name for for glucose, so caHed
called DEXTROSE polarisation, it because in in polarisation, it causes causes
deviation deviation to to the the right. right. because
DIABETES. DIABÈTE onntrr -- Serious Serious nutritional nutritional disorder.
disorder. There There DIABETES. are two two main main types types of of diabetes;
diabetes; aa mild mild forro form which which does does not not are prevent the the
sufferer from leading provided that sufferer from leading a a normal normal life
life provided that prevent he keeps to a a special special diet, keeps to diet, and
and aa severe severe forro form which which requires requires he medical treatment.
treatment. medical All diabetics diabetics require require a a special special
diet. diet. Ali Cooking for for diabetics. diabetics. CUISINE cursrNE DES oes
DlABÈTlQUES ohsirreuEs -- Once Once an an Cooldng intelligent cook cook knows
quantity of knows the the quantity of carbohydrates carbohydrates the the
intelligent (that is, diabetic is is allowed allowed (that is, f10ury floury and
and leguminous leguminous food) food) he he diabetic can use the ration ration in
use the in many many ways ways in in order order to to vary vary the the diet diet
can pleasant and and make it pleasant make it and appetising. appetising. He He
will will avoid avoid thickened thickened and sauces and and any any food food
where pulses are where f10ur flour or or pulses are used in large large used in
sauces amounts. Also Also to to be be avoided avoided is is the the excessive
excessive use use of of salt, salt, amounts. which would would only only increase
pronounced thirst increase the the already already pronounced thirst of of which
the diabetic, diabetic, and and especially especially the use of of sugars. the use
sugars. the

DIAPHRAGM. COFFRE corrnn- -Part Partof DIAPHRAGM. ofthe thebody bodyof ofman manor
orbeast beast whichcontains contains the theribs. ribs. The TheFrench French word
which wordcoffre coffreis isapplied applied to the thecarapace carapace of to
ofcertain certain shellfish. shellfish.
DIASTASIS. oIl.sr.lsE- - Ferment DIAST ASIS. DIASTASE Ferment which whichdevelops
grain developsin ingrain and tubers tubers at germination. This and atthe themoment
moment of ofgermination. This liquefies liquefiesthe the starchand andturns starch
itinto turns it intosugar. sugar.

DICING. COUPER coupER EN rNDÉS ors- - Cutting DICING. Cutting various

variousfoodstuffs, foodstuffs,for for example, ham, ham,artichoke artichoke hearts,
example, hearts, truffles, truffies, mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. into cubes
cubes or or squares. squares. into
(A LA) DIEPPOISE DIEPPOISE (À LA) -- Method Method of preparing seawater of
preparing seawater fish. fish. Fish Fish àri la garnishedwith ladieppoise dieppoise
is iscooked inwhite cooked in whitewine, wine, garnished with mussels mussels and
and shelled shelled freshwater freshwater crayfish crayfishtails, tails, and
andmasked masked with white wine wine sauce sauce made with aa white made with with
the thecooking cooking stock stockof ofthe the (See BRILL, fish mussels (See fish
and and mussels BRiLL, Bri/l Brill àdla ladieppoise.) dieppoise.)
DIET. DIET. RÉGIME nncnc ALIMENTAIRE ALTMENTATRE - - Methodical Methodical and and
reasoned reasoned use use of of food food in in health health as as in in sickness.
sickness. DIETETICS. DIETETICS. DIÉTÉTIQUE o#r6rreus - - The The study study of of
everything everythingconconcerned cerned with with diet diet and and ail all that
that relates relates to to the the therapeutic therapeutic use useof of food. food.
Dietetics Dietetics can can be be defined defined as asthe the art art of of
nourishing nourishing oneoneself self naturally. naturally. The The importance
importance of of aa sensible, sensible, regulated, regulated, balanced balanced
diet diet has has been proved where been amply amply proved health is where health
isconconcerned. cerned.

DHBLE -- Cookery Cookery utensil porous utensil made made in in the the forro form
of of two two porous DIABLE pans, one earthenware pans, one of of which which fits
fits onto onto the the other other as as a a lid. lid. earthenware (potatoes,
chestnuts) Some vegetables vegetables and and fruit fruit (potatoes, chestnuts) can
Sorne can be be cooked in pan without in this this type type of of pan without
liquid. liquid. cooked In France France a a sheet-metal sheet-metal draught draught
device ln device for for solid solid fuel fuel cookers is is also also known as as
a a diable. diable. cookers
(A LA) DIABL,E (À LA)See DEVILLED. DIABLE - See

Demt-johns and and diables diables (lr'lcolas) (Nicolas) Demi-johns

#
312 3t2
DIGESTER DIGESTER
The scienoe of dietetics is relatively new and unfamiliar. science of dietetics is
relatively new and unfamiliar. ItThe is still mainly applied to invalid diets,
diets for chronic Il is still mainly applied to invalid diets, dieL~ for chronic
diseases such as diabetes, rheumatism, etc. and slimming diseases such as diabetes,
rheumatism, etc. and slimming just diets. But it is as important for dietetics to
be used in diets. But it is just as important for dietctics to be used in the
service of the healthy. To feed oneself badly badlymeans means the service of the
healthy. To feed oneself depriving the body of nutrients that it requires, oi
providdepriving the body of nutrients that it requires, or providing these in over-
generous or insufficient amounts, piactices ing thesc in over-generous or
insufficient amounts, practices which often lead to disease and disorders. which
often lead to disease and disorders. It is important, therefore, to know the body's
quantitative Il is important, therefore, to know the body's quantitative
qualitative requirements, and to discover what perand and qualitative requirements,
and to discover what percentage of vital elements are present in the various foods.
centage of vital elements are present in the various foods. With this knowledge it
is possible to compile diets suited to With this knowledge it is possible to
compile diets suited to various needs. various needs. Food is made percentages up
of certain of three three energising energising _Food is made up of certain
percentages of elements: proteids, glucides and lipids. Proteids (proteins)
elements: proteids, glucides and lipids. Proleüis (pro teins) are the basic
constituents of all living cells. There is no life are the basic constituents of
ail living cells. Thel'e is no life without proteins. They should account for to 14
per cent without proteins. They should account for Il to 14 pel' cent of the total
calorie intake. Carbohydrates produce the sugars. of the total calorie intake.
Carbohydrates produce the sugars. Carbohydrates should account for about half the
food eiten Carbohydrates should account for about half the food eaten darly. Lipids
(fats) have an important role in the diet. A daily. Lipids (fats) have an important
role in the die!. À of 40 g. (ltoz.) should be eonsumed eachday,25 g. giniTury of
minimum 40 g. (1 oz.) should be consumed each day, 25 g. (l oz.) of which should be
animal fat. (l oz.) of which should be animal fa t. Mineral salts such as sodium
chloride, calcium, phosMineral salts such as sodium chloride, calcium, ph osphorus,
etc. are present in food and these, too, are indispensph orus, etc. are pœsent in
food and these, too, are indispensable elements, as are trace elements such as
zinc, iron, copper, able elements, as are trace elements such as zinc, iron,
coppel', etc., and vitamins. Approximately 25 g. (l oz.) mineral-salts etc., and
vitamins. Approximately 25 g. (1 oz.) minerai salts should be consumed daily, half
of which should be sodium should be consumed daily, half of wbich should be sodium
salts. salts. Vitamins play a very important r6le. The table below Vitamins play a
very important rôle. The table below indicates the properties and sources of the
principal vitamins. indicates the properties and sources of the principal vitamins.
.Plays an important role in EE Plays an important role in fertility, pregnancy,
pregnancy, sterility sterility fertility, andmuscular muscularbalance balancein in
and rats.Uncertain Uncertain function function rats. inhuman humanbeings. beings.
in

Greenvegetables, vegetables, Green germ,pork cerealgerm, pork cereal fat,meat,

meat,fat. fat. fat,

K Anti-haemorrhagic Anti-haemorrhagic vitamin vitamin Green Green vegetables,

vegetables, K n@essaryfor for the thecoagulation coagulation salads, salads,fruit.
fruit. necessary theblood. blood. Ils Itsfunction function .ofthe ,of isthe
theformation formationof prothrombin. of prothrombin. is
problem that The problem that faces faces the thedietitian dietitian is (accordisto
to calculate calculate (accordThe ing to to the the situation, situation,
temperament temperament and and tastes tastes of person of the the person ing (in
calories) concerned) the the energy energy value value (in calories) of given food.
ofa food, as as concerned) a given well as as its its richness richness in in
appropriate appropriate vitamins. vitamins. Il It is is then then aa case case weil
6f combining combining the the various various foods foods so so as to obtain as to
obtain aa coherent, coherent, ôf balanced, pleasant pleasant diet. diet. In In
order order to to calculate calculate calorie calorie requirerequirebalanced, ments
we must bear we must bear in in mind mind that: that: ments g. protein protein
produces produces 4 4 calories, calories, 1 g. g. carbohydrate carbohydrate
produces produces 4 4 calories, calories, 1 g. g. Iipids produces about lipids
produces about 9 9 calories. calories. 1 g. Each individual's individual's needs,
needs, where where calories calories are are concerned, concerned, Each v-
aries.considerably according to to the the work work he he does, does, his his age,
age, varies considerably according the climate climate in in which which he he
lives, lives, etc. general rule As a etc. As a general rule it iiis the is
recognised that that a a man man of physical activity of average average physical
activity requires requires recognised 2,800 calories calories daily, daily, a a
woman, woman, 2,200. 2,200. Vitam Vitamin 2,800 in requirements quantitative and
are quantitative qualitative. and qualitative. are

ll

WEIGHT AND AND CALORIE CALORIE EQUIVALENTS EQUIVALENTS WEIGHT

Food Food
(average size) Steak (average Steak Cutlet (l slice) Ham (l Ham (l leg) Chicken (1
Chicken Egg Sole (average Sole (average size) Fresh Fresh herring herring (large)
(large) Potato Potato (egg-sized) Carrots Noodles Rice Gruyire Gruyère cheese Apple
Pear Pear (large) Banana Orange Lemon Oil Oil (l (1 tablespoon) Sugar Sugar (l
(llump)

Weight We igh 1

Calories Calories

A A Bl
BI

Vitamins Vitamins
Vitamin of growth. Strengthens resistance to illness. Vital for the resistance to
illness. Vital for the production of retinal pigment. production of retinal
pigment. Metabolism of glucides. Factor of appetite and the balance of

Sources Sources
eggs, carrots, eggs, carrots, spinach, cabbage, spinach, cabbage. fish fish liver
liver oil. oil.

Vitamin of growth. Strengthens Butter, milk, cheese, Butter, milk, cheese,

Metabolism of glucides.

Factor

of appetite and the balance of the nervous system. Lack of this the nervous system.
Lack of this vitamin causes vitamin causes beriberi.

beriberi.

Yeasts, Yeasts, wheatgerm, wheatgerm, sugar, sugar, bread, bread, meat, meat, dried
dried vegetables, vegetables, green vegetables. green vegetables.
92 Vitamin of general equilibrium. Cereals, liver, liver, eggs, eggs, Vitamin of
general equilibrium. Cereals,
Dz Nutritional and
Nutritional and metabolic regulator. regulator.

metabolic

milk, milk, fish, fish, meat. meat.

B B

Anti-pellagrous vitamln called nicotine acid. called nicotine acid. Essential for
the release Essential for the release ofenergy from food. of energy from food.

Anti-pellagrousvitamin

Yeasts, Yeasts, cereal cereal gerln, germ, dried d ried vegetables, vegetables,
meat, fish. meat, fish.

size) 120 g. (approx. (approx. 41 120 g. 4j 0Z oz.) .) Cutlet ( ,, 2 2- oz.) 50 g.

oz.) e. ( slice) 50 g. 2 oz.) oz.) 2 g. ( ( ,, 50 leg) ( ,, 4 100 g. 4 oz.j oz.)
100 g. ( Egg 50 g. 2 oz.) 50 g. ( ( ,, 2 oz.S size) 100 100 g. 4 4 oz.) oz.) g. ( (
,, 150 5 5 oz.) oz.) 150 g. g. ( ( ,, (egg-sized) 50 2 oz.) 50 g. g. ( ( ,, 2 oz.)
Carrots 2AO 7 7 oz.) oz.) 200 g.( g. ( ,, Noodles 200 7 200 g. g. ( ( ,, 7 oz) oz.)
Rice 150 5 oz.) 150 g. g. ( ( ,, 5 oz.) cheese 30 I1 oz.) oz.) 30 g. g. ( ( ,,
Apple 150 S oz.) 150 g. g. ( ( ,, 5 oz.) (large) 200 7 oz.) 200 g. g. ( ( ,, 7 oz.)
Banana 80 3 80 g. g. ( ( ,, oz.) 3 oz.) Orange 150 5 oz.) 150 g. g. ( ( ,, 5 oz.)
Lemon 100 4 oz.) 100 g. g. ( ( ,, 4 oz.) tablespoon) 15 15 g. g. ( ( ,, OZ.) 1 or.)
* lump) 5 5 g. g. ( ( ,, oz.) I! oz.)
CALORIE CALORIEREQUIREMENTS REQUIREMENTS

300 150
175 175

200 200 80 g0 80 2OO 200 40 90 150 150 150 150 l2O 120 90 90 l2O 120 g0 80 75 75 50
50 tZO 120 20 20

B' Encourages the synthesis of Bu Encourages the synthesis of C C

Liver, fish. proteins and helps in the growth Liver, fish. pro teins and helps in
the growth and equilibrium of the red and equilibrium of the red corpuscles.
corpuscles. Anti-scorbutic vitamin. Fruit, Fruit, vegetables. vegetables. Anti-
scorbutic vitamin. Aids vascular resistance and vascular resistance and strengthens
resistance to strengthens resistance to infection. Hastens the healing infection.
Hastens the healing of scars. Lack of this vitamin of scars. Lack of this vitamin
causes scurw. causes scurvy.

Activity AClivily Intense Average Slighi Intense Average Slight

Aids

Man Man Woman Woman

Child: Child:up upto to l0 10years years

4500 4500 3800 3800

2800 2800 2200 2200

2000 2000 3000 3000 2600 2600 3600 3600 240,0 2400
2200 2200 1800 1800

b9I boy up 15 y"ur, upto 1015 years {{ I girl girl

t

upto2oy."r, {bOY u p to 20 years [b9I

eirl girl

D D

Concerned with absorption Concerned with absorption and laying down of calcium and
laying down of calcium and potassium in the bones. and potassium in the bones.
Important for children for Important for children for bone formation and bone
formation and prevention of rickets. prevention of rickets.

fish. fish.

Milk, Milk,butter, butter,eggs, eggs,

DIGESTBR. DIGESTER. DrcEsrErJR DIGESTEliR-- Piece Pieceof ofapparatus apparatus

which whichworks works on on the t he pressure pressure cooker cooker principle.
principle. It It can can be be hermetically hermetically sealed sealedand and
isisfitted fitted with withaasafety safetyvalve, valve,enabling enablingfood food
to tobe be subjected boiling subjectedto tohigher highertemperatures
temperaturesthan thanthat thatof of boilingwater. water. (See (SeePRESSURE
PRESSURECOOKER.) COOKER.)
313 313
DIGESTIBILITY
DIGESTffiILITY. DIGESTIBILIT6 DIGESTIBILITÉ - The The assimilability assinùlability
of of DIGESTIBILITY. foodstuffs into into the the digestive digestive system.
system. The The layman layman recognises recognises foodstuffs produces no no
unpleasant unpleasant sensation sensation in in food as as digestible digestible if
if it it produces food the course course of of digestion. digestion. To To the the
expert, expert, digestibility digestibility is is deterdeterthe by the the
proportion proportion of of elements elements in in food food which which c4n Can
be be mined by mined thoroughly assimilated assirnilated into into the the human
human organism. organism. thoroughly This portion portion is Is variable variable
in in different different foods foods and and depends depends This also upon upon
the the state state in in which which they they are are eaten, eaten, upon upoa the
the manner manner also in which which they they are are cooked, cooked, upon upon
the the amount amount eaten eaten and and upon upon in the other other foods foods
eaten eaten at at the the same sa me time, time, and and is is assessed assessed
only only the on the the basis basts of of a a perfectly perfectly healthy healthy
digestion. digestion. on Sorne foods, foods, such as as sugar, sugar, which which
leaves leaves no no residue, residue, are are Some completely digestible;
digestible; with with most most other other foods foods there there is Îs a a
completely proportion of of waste. waste. proportion ln a a normal normal mixed
mixed diet diet the the proportion proportion of of digestible digestible matter
matter In is 97 97 per per cent cent in in meat meat and and eggs, eggs, 94 94 per
per cent in in millc, milk, 79 79 per is cent in in bread, bread, 80 80 to to 85 85
per per cent cent in pulses pulses and and potatoes. potatoes. cent 95 per per cent
cent of of the the fats fats in meat, meat, eggs, eggs, and and milk milk are are
digestible. digestible. 95 100 per per cent cent of the the carbohydrates
carbohydrates in milk milk are are digestible, 100 99 per per cent cent in in
cereals cereals in in the the form fonn offlour of ftour or or bread, bread, 96 96
per per cent 99 pulses and and potatoes. potatoes. About l0 10 per per cent of
wastage wastage is a in pulses than is average, especially as as most most people
people eat eat more more than fair average, strictly necessary. necessary. strictly

Second Secondcourse course (mensa (mensaprima). prima). Various Various stews

stewsand and roast roast veal. veal.

Third Third course course (mmsa (mensa secunda). secunda). Pastries Pastries and
and various variaus jams, jams,

fruit fruit and and sweetmeats. sweetmeats.

Under Under Charles Charles V V (1337-1380), (1337-1380), the the main main meal
meal of of the the day day was was taken taken at at 9 9 a.m. a.m. Under Under
Louis Louis XIII XIII (1610-1643), (1610-1643), dinner dinner was was served served
at at midday. midday. In ln the the seventeenth seventeenth century, century, it it
became became I a.m. customary customary to to serve serve this this meal meal
after after mass, mass, between between III a.m. and midday. midday. and Under
Under Louis Louis XV XV (1715-1774), (1715-1774), dinner dinner became became the
the main main meal meal of of the the day, day, served served at at about about two
two p.m. p.m. Nowadays Nowadays the the normal normal dinner dinner hour hour is is
between between 7 7 and and 8 8 p.m., p.m., though though in in France France it Ît
is is commonly commonly served served much much later later than than this this and
and is is often often in in the the nature nature of of supper. supper. TIMES.
TIMES.

DINOCHAU DINOCHAU - See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE different

different dishes. dishes. (See (See PUDDING, PUDDING, Diplomat Diplomat WilW,
pudding,
SA UCE, Diplomat Diplomat sauce.) sauce.) SAUCE,
PoRrE-PLAr PORTE-PLAT
-

DIPIOMAT. DIPLOMAT.

DIrLoMATE DIPLOMATE - Name Name given given to to several severa 1 quite quite

DISH DISH STAI\D. STAND.

Basket Basket used used for for carrying carrying

dishes. Also Also a metal metal or porcelain porcelain mat mat on which dishes are
dishes. placed. placed.

DIGESfIVE. plcnsrn DIGESTIF - That which whieh promotes promotes digestion.

DIGESTM.

DISII\FECTING. DISINFECTING. pisrNFEcrIoN DÉSINFECTION

digestive juices are elements elements in the secretions secretions of the The
digestive digestive glands glands which cause foodstuffs to undergo changes which
render render them them assimilable. assimilable. The principle principle digestive
digestive juices which are: plyalin in in saliva, pepsin pep.~in and renne! in in
the the stomach, stomaeh, and rmnet are: ptyalin amylase, trypsin /rypsin and
lipase in in the the pancreas; erepsin erepsin and and and lipase amylase, inver/in
in the intestine. invertin juices are are taken in in the form of medicine medieine
Severa! Several of these juiees to supplement secretions. Apart in the natural
secretions. deficiencies in to supplement defieiencies from these these there there
are, strictly speaking, medicines helpful helpful speaking, no medicines from
appetite; to the the digestion. Bitter medicines increase the the appetÎte;
medicines increase digestion. Bitter to alkalines in the alkalis in acids or
alkalis and acids acids neutralise excess acids alkalines and stomach, not, in the
exact sense oftheword, digestives. of the word, digestives. are no! but are
stomach, but from the the As with coffee, coffee, from after meals meals with taken
after liqueun taken As for for liqueurs digestive medical point ofview, deserve the
name digestive of view, they do not deserve which is sometimes bestowed upon them.
them.

aseptic aseptic by destroying destroying harmful germs. Disinfecting Disinfecting

is obligaobligacontaminatcd areas, areas, especially especially those where where
provisions provisions tory in contaminatod tory are kept. kept. In In the the case
case of foodstuffs foodstuffs which are are in in the the least are

- To To puriff purify or or render -

chemical disinfectants degree contaminated, contaminated, chemical disinfectants

are are usually usually degree condemned. and their use in such cases is condemned.
ineffectual and
DISPENSAIRE - Name given in former times times to a book of of DISPENSAIRE
recipes.

ptssncnoN DISSECTING. DISSECTION DISSECTING. of jointing. of jointing.

used instead sometimes used Term sometimes Term

province of Burgundy; a a DIJON the ancient ancient province Capital of the -
Capital specialities' town repute that has many specialities. town of high
gastronomic repute gtngerAmong mustard; gingerare Dijon muslard; most famous are
the most these the Among these (ham sprinkled bread; persilU (ham sprinkled with
parsley); cassis; jambon persillé bread; cassis; Ia gras-doubles à (tripe il beef à
d la d la la dijonnaise); diionnaise); beef Ia dijonnaise dijonnarse (tripe d la
bourguignonne snails à ln bourguignonne; meure/le. meurette. bourguignonne
;ferchuse; ; fer chuse ; snails d la bourguignonne ; There in are described
described in which are special dishes dishes whieh other special are many many
other There are detail (q.u.). detail under Burgundy (q.v.). Ali intermeet at at
the the intergastronomic world world meet the gastronomic sections of of the All
sections national food year. La La Commanderie Commanderie in Dijon Dijon every
every year. held in food fair fair held Ducs. des ville des des Ducs. in ln k ville
headquarters in has its headquarters also has cordohs-bleus also des cordons-bleus
(According commanderie of this this commanderie members of (According to the
members to Curnonsky, Curnonsky, the fireplace). would a fircplace). out of of a a
dioing-room dining-room out how to to make make a know how would know A bedrooms.
in its its bedrooms. has wine taps in wine taps Dijon has hotel in in Dijon A
certain certain hotel
DILUTING. liquid or or liqull to to aoother another liquid Adding liquid oEllvm. --
Adding DILUTING. DÉLAYER semi-solid substance. semi-solid substance. DINATOIRE a
sort sort of of dinner; a a midday midday dinner; for a French word word for
DINATOIRE -- French late unnecessary. render dinner dinner unnecessary. enough to
to render substantial enough late lunch lunch substantial DINNER. dlLatin dilow
Latin from the the low DII\NER. DîNER oiNrn -- Ward Word derived derived from
coenare, coenare, disnare. disnare. In The evening. In towards evening. dined
towards usually dined Greeks usually ancient Greeks The ancient ancient ninth or or
at the the ninth was taken taken at or supper supper was dinner or Rome dinner
ancient Rome teath ur, (between (between 3 p.m.). The menu dinner menu 4 p.m.). The
Roman Roman dÎnner 3 and and 4 hour, tenth ho was follows: up as as follows: made
up was made (probably Firs/ (gustatus). Eggs, vegetables (probably various
vegetables Eggs, various First course course (gus/a/us). seasoned with vinegar).
vinegar). seasoned with

volatile DISTILLATION DISTILLATION - Process of separating the more volatile

vaporisation volatile components in a liquid by vaporisation from the less volatile
from (through condensation (through (through heating) followed by heating) followed
(through by condensation chilling). fermented apparatus is used to distil fermented
In industry, industry, very large apparatus juices or production of of comthe
production in the or cereal decoctions in fruit juices fruit spirits (q.v.).
mercial alcohol or spirits

plunfuQueproperty of increasing increasing DILTRETIC. DIURÉTIQUE DfiJRETIC - Having

the property the Pharmacopoeiae, the In the the old old Codex Phnrmacopoeiae,
volume of urine. In the volume the smallage, of smallage, roots of dried roots
plants mentioned are are the the dried diuretic plants diuretic parsley and and
knee-holly. knee-holly. fennel, parsley asparagus, fennel,
(divine), now only now only for divin divin (divine), word, short for French word,
DWE Old French DIVE - Old (the divine a divine bottle), bottle), a la dive
bouteille (Ihe dive bouleille expression la in the the expression used in used
Gargantua. quotation from Rabelais' Gargan/ua. from Rabelais' quotation
pLoNcEoN -- Web-footed of the the birds of Web-footed birds or LOON. LOON. PLONGEON
DwER or DIVER oily, flesh is is tough, tough, oily, to duck. duck. The The flesh
order, simiJar similar to Gaviiformes Gaviiformes arder, and fishy. fishy. and

chub, European chub, for the the European French na name DOBULE Common French
DOBULE me for - Common a ponds, and fish tastes tastes a This fish rivers. This
lakes, ponds, and rivers. found in in Jakes, which is is found which (q.v.) and
same way. way. in the the same and is is cooked cookd in little like like thefha
thefira (q.v.) little meat of of of deer. deer. The The meat is the the femaJe
female of The doe doe is BIcITE -- The DOE. BICHE DOE. similar season, is is
sirnilar mating season, killed outside outside the the mating when killed this
animal, animal, when this roebuck. of the the roebuck. to that that of to it. to
il. are applicable applicable to for venison venison are indicated for All methods
methods iodicated Ail preparing it for it for marinated before before preparing be
marinated Doe meat meat should should be Doe cooking. cooking. preceding entry.
entry. See preceding cHEvRETTEDOE or or ROEDEER. ROEDEER. CHEVRETTE DOE - Sec meat
mammal whose whose meat domestic mammal cHIEN -- Carnivorous Carnivorous domestic
DOG. CHIEN DOG. is In China there is China there countries. In is eaten eaten in in
certain certain countries. edible and and is is edible is (Chow dogs) table. for
the the table. fattened for dogs) specially specially fattened dogs (Chow of dogs
breed of aa breed

314 314
DOUGH DOUGH In France, France, in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century, century,
Chancellor ChancellorDuprat Duprat In had donkeys donkeys bred bred and and
fattened fattenedfor for his his table. table. During During the the had Malta by
by the blockade of of Malta the English English and and the the Neapolitans,
Neapolitans, the the blockade inhabitants, reduced reduced to to eating eating
domestic domestic animaIs animals like like dogs, dogs, inhabitants, cats, rats,
rats, and and donkeys, donkeys, became becameso so fond fond of donkey flesh of
donkey flesh cats, preferred it that they they preferred it to to beef beefand and
veal. veal. During During the the siege siege of of that Paris, donkey donkey meat,
meat, as asweil well as as the the flesh fleshof lessedible ofother other less
edible Paris, animals, helped helped to to appease appease the the hunger hunger of
of the the besieged. besieged. animaIs, preparation of Culinary preparation of
donkey donkey meat meat is is the thesame same as Culinary for asfor horsemeat or
young donkeys or beef. beef. The The meat meat of of young donkeys under horsemeat
under two two years old is very very delicate pdtis, which delicate and old is and
is inma making isused used in king pâtés, years which quality rival in quality
those made made of veal. rival those of veal. in
DORADE -- See See SEA SEA BREAM. BREAM. DORADE

DORMANT -- Large gold centrepiece or gold silver or DORMANT Large silver

centrepiece which, which, in in former times, times, stood stood on on the the
dining-table. dining-table. It former It was was similar similar to to an an
ipergne. épergne.
Dogfish Dogfish

DOGFISH. AIGUILLAT ArcurLLAr -- Common Common name name for for the the fish fish
of of the the DOGFISH. Squalus acanthias acanthias species, species, also piked
dogfish also called called the the piked dogfish or or Squa/us This fish fish is
grey on is bluish grey on the the back, back, dirty dirty white white spur dogfish.
This on the belly, and and has a a horny horny spike spike in front front which
which sometimes sometimes on (39 inches) in reaches 1 I m. m. (39 in length.
length. It It feeds feeds on on fish, fish, shellfish, shellfish, reaches molluscs,
and and has white, rather coarse coarse flesh. flesh. Its Its liver liver oil oil
and molluscs, is used used in in the treatment of of animal skins; skins; its its
own own skin skin is is used used is by turners for polishing wood and and ivory.
prepared by Dogfish can can be be prepared by following following the given the
recipes recipes given Dogfish (q.v.) and for cod cod (q.v.) and other large fish;
its its flesh flesh can can be be made made into into for soup, which quite
nutritive, especially a soup, which is is th thin pasta especially if if pasta in
but quite a products, cereals, or bread bread are are added. products, given to
other species is given species of of fish fish on on both The name dogfish is both
sides of the north Atlantic. sides

(Gilding) -- Term DORURE (Gilding) DORURE Term used used in in French French
cookery cookery for for beaten whole yolks, thinned whole eggs eggs or or egg egg
yolks, beaten with aa little little water, thinned with water, pastry and brushed
onto onto pastry and other other mixtures brushed mixtures such such as Duchess as
Duchess potato (see (see POT pastry-brush made POTATOES) ATOES) with potato with aa
pastry-brush made of of silk silk or feathers. feathers. or

DOTIEREL. GUIGNARD DOITEREL. curcN.lno -- European passage of European bird bird of

of passage of the the wader group. group. Its Its flesh wader flesh is is rather
rather tasteless. tasteless. Ail All recipes recipes for for plover (q.v.) (q.v.)
are plover are suitable suitable for for dotterel. dotterel.
DOUBLE-CREAM (Cheese) (Cheese) -- See DOUBLE-CREAM See CHEESE. CHEESE. DOLIBLER --
Term DOUBLER Term in in French French cookery, cookery, meaning meaning to to fold
fold in in pastry, a two a a layer layer of two of pastry, a cut cut of of meat,
meat, or or a a fillet fillet of of fish. fish. It It also also means to pastries
on means to cover cover pastries on a a baking baking sheet sheet with with another
another sheet sheet to prevent overbaking to overbaking by by excessive excessive
heat. heat.
(U.S. Double DOUBLE UCEP AN (u'S. DOUBLE SA SAUCEPAN Double boUer). DoUBLE-FoND
boiler). DOUBLE-FOND -- Two Two saucepans saucepans which which fit fit together.
together. Food Food which which must must not not come come in in contact placed
with the the heat heat of contact directly directly with of the the cooker cooker
is is placed in pan contains in the the upper upper saucepan. saucepan. The The
lower lower pan contains water water which which is is brought brought to to the
the boil, heating the boil, thus thus heating the contents contents of of the the
pan. upper pan. pArn DOUGH, DOUGH, PASTRY, PASTRY, AND AI\D BATTER. BATTER.
PÂTEBriochedoughI. À BRIOCHE-Ingredients. 500 g. Brioche dough I. PÂTE rArrA
rnrocrn-Irugredients.500 (18 oz., g. (18 oz., 4| cups) sieved 4t (14 oz., g. (14
sieved flour, flour, 400 g. (t (1 400 g. l| cups) cups) butter, oz., li butter, 10
l0 g. yeast, 6 oz.) dried yeast, (l oz., g. (l 6 eggs, eggs, 25 25 g. oz., 2 2
tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, It l| teaspoons salt, (6
tablespoons, salt, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant tl cup) crrp) warm wann
water. The The leaven. quarter of leaven. Put Put a a quarter of the the flour
flour in in a a circle circle on on the the table, with the yeast in in the middle.
Dilute with with a a little little water, water, moisten and and mix, mix, keeping
keeping the the dough rather rather soft. soft. Roll Roll into into a a bail, ball,
make a a crossways incision on on the top, put into a a small small bowl, cover,
and leave in a wann place for a warm for the the paste to to ferment ferment and
and double its volume. The dough. dough. Put the rest of the flour in a a circle on
the table, on the table, add (3 tablespoons) add 4 4 eggs eggs and 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 and 2 tablespoons) warm warm water, water, mix, and and knead knead
the dough. Add the sugar and and salt dissolved dissolved in in a a few few drops
drops of of water, water, soften soften the butter butter and add it to the dough.
Add the remaining 2 eggs, eggs, one by one, one, and and mix the the dough dough
weil. well. Spread Spread the dough dough on on the the table, indent, pour the
indent, pour leaven the leaven centre, and into the centre, and blend it it in. in.
Put the the dough into into a a bowl, bowl, cover with a cloth, and and leave in a
a warm place to to rise. rise. la ter beat the dough, and keep in 5 or 6 hours
later 5 and keep in a a cool cool place until needed. fi. pArn PÂTE A À BRIOCHE
Brioche dough IL nnrocne COMMUNE coMMUNE Ingredients. - Ingredients. 4t cups)
sieved flour, 200 500 g. (18 oz., 4| g. (7 (7 oz., 2(X) g. oz., scant scant cup)
cup) butter, 10 g. (i (-3- oz.) oz.) yeast, yeast, 4 eggs, 1 butter, l0 g. 4 eggs,
I teaspoon teaspoon fine fine sugar, sugai, 1j teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, 1 (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant I I dl. dl. (6 scant I cup) warm wann ",rp) water
(or milk). water

DOLIC. DOLIQUE DoLreuE pulses, several several of which DOLIC. which are are -
Group of pulses, edible. Among these these the most most important is is the the
soya soya bean (q.v.). DOLMAS (Iurkidr cookery) or DOLMADES DOLMADES (furkish
cookery) Dolmas DOLMAS or - Do/mas are blanching vine vine leaves, draining
draining them, are prepared by blanching them, and stuffing them with minced lamb
and cooked rice. rice. The leaves are and braised braised in very little stock with
oil are rolled rolled into balls and and lemon lemon juice juice added. Dolmas
Do/mas can albo also be made with cabbage leaves, leaves, fig fig leaves or the
leaves leaves of of the hazelnut tree. In Turkey, sheep-tail fat. Turkey, dolmas
do/mas are often cooked in sheep-tail Dolma used in the Middle East for a Do/ma is
also the term tenn used a dish (aubergines, tomatoes, of stuffed vegetables of
mixed mixed stuffed vegetables (aubergines, tomatoes, artichoke hearts hearts and
courgettes). courgettes). DOM PERIGNON PÉRIGNON - A monk of the Abbey of
Hautvilliers
near near Epernay, who achieved achieved fame by by discovering the process of of
making making sparkling sparkling Champagne. Champagne.

He He gave gave his his name name to to a a celebrated Mo€t Moët et et Chandon
Chandon
Champagne. Champagne.

DOI\KEY. DONKEY. ANn, ÂNE, ANoN ÂNON - Donkey's Donkey's meat meat is tasty ta st y
and superior superior in flavour to that of horse; it is used mainly in the
manufacture facture of of certain certain types types of of sausage. sausage. Wild
donkey used to be considered considered choice choice venison in the Orient.
Orient. According According to M. Alquier, Alquier, donkey donkey meat is less Jess
fatty and
richer richer in albuminoids albuminoids than equivalent equivalent cuts cuts of of
beef. The domesticated domesticated donkey donkey is a descendant descendant of the
Nubian The donkey. donkey. Donkey meat, meat, and and that that of donkey donkey
foals, foals, was was highly Donkey Romans. Maecenas, Maecenas, it is is said,
said, treated treated his valued by by the the Romans. valued guests of marinated
marinated donkey donkey meat. meat. guests to to a a stew of The Persians Persians
were were great great lovers lovers of donkey meat. meat. ThirtyThe two wild wild
asses asses were were served served at at a a banquet banquet givor given by by
Chah Chah Abbas. Abbas. two

315 315
DOUGH
Method. Method. Proceed Proceed as as described in in the the recipe for Brioche
dough lbut I but keeping keeping it rather rather firm. fion. When intended for
pies to be served as an entrie, entrée, or for

coulibiacs (q.v.), (q.v.), the the sugar sugar can can be be omitted, although
although the small indicated above is is only only meant meant to small amount of
sugar indicated give a little little colour to the dough. Mousseline brioche
brioche dough. dougb. pArp PÂTE A À BRrocHE BRIOCHE MoUSSELINE MOUSSELINE
Mousseline as described dough as described in the recipe for for ordinary Prepare
the dough (2 oz., I i cup) softened softened butter per Brioche dough 1. Add 50 g.
Q (1 lb.) dough. 450 g. (1 a ball, Shape the dough dough into a bail, put it into a
well-buttered well-buttered tied round has a band of greaseproof paper tied a band
mould which has above two thirds. thirds. Leave in a warm waon taking care not to
fill it above it, taking place of the mould. place until un til the dough rises to
the top of mould. oyen. Bake in a slow oven. pArn A n'orcHou D'OFd'office (cream
(cream puff pashy). pastry). PÂTE À CHOU Chou paste d'office ( lf pints, generous
quart) quart) water, 200 200 g. (7 oz., FICE - Put 1 1 litre litre (1;Ï nce a pan.
teaspoons salt into a pan. Bring scant cup) cup) butter, and and 1 teaspoons scant
(1 lb. g. (1 lb. 6 oz., 625 g. from heat heat and and add add 625 to the boil,
remove from pouring well. sieved flour, pou ring it ail all in at once. Mix weil.
5| cups) sievod with a a wooden Retum to to the the heat heat and and cook, cook,
stirring stirring with Return from the comes away away from dries and and cornes
spoon, until the mixture dries until the spoon, heat and, stirring vigorRemove from
the heat sides of the pan. Remove on size), size), putting them ously, or 14 eggs
eggs (depending on ously, add add, 12 or in 2 at a time. in2 pArE À (cream puff
pastry). PÂTE A CHOU cnou puff pastry). paste (cream chou paste Ordinary chou
ORDINAIRE paste can caln be moistened moistened with milk instead oRDINAIRE - Chou
paste by one. one. Stir Stir the can be be added added one one by eggs can and the
the eggs of water, water, and mixture with a wooden spoon alJ all the the time.
mixture pArs À Dumpling dougb. A DUMPLING DUMILING Ingredienrs. 500 g. douglr. PÂTE
Dumplrng - Ingredients. g. (Il oz., (18 oz., oz.,2j cups) suet (18 2i cups) 4j
cups) flour, 300 g. oz., 4t cups) sieved flour, (2 oz., (shredded), 50 g. (2
(shredded), 1| teaspoons teaspoons salt, sugar, 1 cup) sugar, oz., i 50 g. + cup)
(+ pint, scant cup) water. 2 dl. (-t put the suet Method. Put the flour in a on the
table, put a circle on in the middle, and Mix to a a fairly fairly sugar, salt and
water. Mix and add sugar, stiff dough, shape into a a cool place until until a
bail, ball, and and keep in in a needed.

l| t

5t

(ll

Flaky pastry Flaky pastry

Flaky pastry, the most pastry. FEUILLETAGE Flaky pastry, the most FEUILLETAGE --
Flaky Flaky pastry. delicate have pastries, is to have is said said by by sorne
some historians to all pastries, delicate of of ail been famous le Lorrain,
Lorrain, the the famous Gel6e, called called le Claude Gelée, been invented by
Claude seventeenth painter. Others by a say it it was was invented inventod bya
Othen say seventeenth century century painter. chef house to the the house chief
pastry-cook to Feuillet who who was was chief chef called called Feuillet of Condé.
ofCond6. Carême gteat praises Feuillet, a great was undoubtedly undoubtedly a
Feuillet, who who was Car6me praises 316 316

pastry-coolg and in Car6me says, pastry-cook, and in his his Pdtissier Pâtissier
Royal, Royal, Carême 'Richard spurred me as hard by speaking speaking me on to work
twice as stops there, Car6me stops to me often of the great Feuillet'. But Carême
does he in his on pastry does and nowhere in his learned leamed treatises on he say
and pastry. But But Joseph was the inventor of of flaky pastry. that that Feuillet
was Dictionnaire universel universel subject. In lnhis Favre is definite on this
subject. his Dictionnaire 'the inventor of of flaky he says was 'the says that that
Feuillet was de cuisine caisine he de pastry.' pastry.' of a a however, from from
the the study study of of documents of It appears, appears, however, It in known
not only in much earlier date, date, that flaky pastry was known also in Greece. In
In a a charter Ages but but also in ancient Greece. the Middle the Middle Ages ( I
3 I I ), flaky-pastry flaky-pastry drawn up by Robert, Bishop of Amiens (1311),
cakes are mentioned. pastry-cook's it is is said, said, served served a a pastry-
cook's who, it Gel6e who, Claude Gelée Claude of this therefore not not the the
inventor inventor of was therefore apprenticeship, was apprenticeship, in it back
into fashion in brought it delicious pastry. He merely brought his own time.
(modern recipe). p$try or PArE FEUILFEUILrecipe). PÂTE or puff pastry (modem Flrky
pastry Flaky in the a flour-and-water rnr6E, FEUILLETAGE FEUILLETAGE flour-and-
water paste in LETÉE, - Prepare a following manner: (18 oz., g. (18 a board in a a
4j cups) sieved flour flour on on a board in oz., 4t cups) sieved Put 500 g. Put
flours differ, differ, the the in the middle. middle. Since flours making a a welJ
well in circle, ci rcl e, making of water to flour is variable. Into the centre
exact proportion ofwater pint, in H l| teaspoons salt and and about about 3 3 dl.
dl. (t of this circle put in @ pint, is smooth knead until the dough dough is lf
cups) cups) water. water. Mix Mix and and knead until the li 25 minutes. minutes. a
bail ball and and let let it it stand for 25 elastic. Foon Form into a and elastic.
(8 inches) sheet about 20 cm. cm. (8 the dough into into a a sheet about 20 Roll
out out the RoU (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. oz., thickness throughout. throughout. Put
500 ofeven even thickness square and of the middle of this this dough. dough. The
The kneaded butter butter in in the middle of 2| cups) cups) kneaded 2i Fold
flourod board. board. Fold should be kneaded on on a a lightly lightly floured be
kneaded butter should as to to the butter in such such a a way way as the dough
dough over over the butter in the ends ends of the the a for 10 l0 minutes minutes
in in a Leave to to stand stand for it completely. Leave enclose it cold Id place.
co is called called tourage tourage dough. This This operation turns operation is
Give 2 tu ms to this dough. is done done in in two parts: in French and and it it
is in lightly floured floured on a a lightly the dough dough with with a a rolling-
pin on l. Roll Roll the 1. (24 cm. (24 to obtain obtain a a rectangle rectangle 60
60 cm. such a a way way as as to board board in in such (| inch) (8 inches) wide,
and 1| cm. cm. (i inch) thick. thick. and 1 cm. (8 inches) long, 20 cm. in three.
three. 2. 2. Refold the strip in folded dough dough done by by rolling out out the
the folded second tum turn is is done The The second and so so forth. forth.
opposite direction, direction, and in in the the opposite for dough, leaving it to
to stand stand for 4 more more tu turns to the the dough, leaving it Give ms to
Give 4 After having having been been operation. After minutes between between each
each operation. 10 l0 minutes puff pastry is prescribed turns, is ready ready for
for use. use. given the turns, the the puff the 6 6 prescribed given to spread
spread the the butter butter and rolling rolling is is to turning and The The
purpose of of tuming dough. evenly evenly in in the the dough. preparation, the
kept in be kept in a a cold cold the dough dough should should be During During
preparation, put directly could place, but not be on ice; ice; this this could
place, it should should not be put directly on but it to not be be easy easy to
harden and and it would then then not cause the butter butter to to harden it would
cause the in the the dough. dough. incorporate incorporate in (Car0me's recipe).
rocipe). PÂTE pff pastry pastry (Carême's rArr pastry or Flaky Flaky pastry or puff
(about 800 put a 'Having put a litron litron (about 800 g., FEUILLETÉE, FEUTLLETAGE
- 'Having FEUTLLET6E, FEUILLETAGE9., place the tips of of the tips sieved flour
flour on on the the board, board, place l;Ï l? lb., lb., 7 7 cups) cups) sieved an
your fingers into a a circle circle with with an middle and and spread spread it it
into your fingers in in the the middle (4 inches); known this operation operation
is is known inside cm. (4 inches); this l0 cm. diameter of of 10 inside diameter
disposed in in this this the flour, flour, disposed as a weil" well" because
because the as "making "making a for moistening moistening required for manner,
have the the water water which which is is required manner, will will have put in
it middle. it put in the the middle. (see WEIGHTS 'In the put 2 gros (see AND
WEIGHTS AND 'In well, put 2 gros the centre centre ofthis of this weil, piece of
yolks, a a piece of butter butter the the MEASURES) MEASURES) fine fine salt, salt,
2 2 egg egg yolks, glass of Stir this this mixture mixture size and nearly nearly a
a glass of water. water. Stir size of of a a walnut walnut and (using the hand only
and your fingers with right hand only and the tips fingers (using the right of your
with the tips of in mix in little by by little, little, mix keeping spread out)
out) and, and, little keeping the the fingers fingers spread that the the the more
water necessary so so that adding a a little little more water if if necessary the
flour, flour, adding slightly and is dough has the right consistency is slightly is
moistened, moistened, has the right consistency and dough is pressing with the hand
hand on on the the fion. with the little, pressing firm. Then Then work work it it
a a little, board a few few minutes, minutes, a a as to to achieve, achieve, after
after a in such such a a way way as board in satin. dough touch and as smooth
smooth as as satin. is soft soft to to the the touch and as dough which which is

t
DOUGH DOUGH

well L 1. Water Water is poured poured on the the salt salt in the mrddle middle of
of the weil

water 2. Milling Mixing /lour ffour and and waler 2.

paste putting butter on the paste 3. 3. Method Method of putting

paste 4. How How butter butter is is enclosed in the the paste enclosed in 4.

5. 5. Rolling paste is Rolling out sheet first time: 1na a rectanguJar rectangular
sheet out for for the the first the paste is rolled rolled out out in trme: the

folded in isfolded rectangle ofpaste of paste is in three three 6. Rolling for the
time : the the rectangle Rolling out out for the second second time: 6.

7. 7.Second Second turn: paste before turn: turn turn the rolling it it out out the
paste before rolling

giventwo paste to beengiven two turns turns 8. indicate that that ititbas 8.Making
hasbeen Makingaamark mark on onthe thepaste toindicate

(Larousse) MAKlNG deParis Pari,s (Larousse) classes,Gaz Gaz de Cookery classes,

PASTRY Cookery MAKING FLAKY FLAKY PASTRY

317 3r7
DOUGH
be too firm This dough should neither be finn nor too soft. It is, however, better
for it a !ittle little on side rather soft side on the the soft it to to be a than
too hard. put 400 'Roll the out in in a a rectangular sheet; sheet; put 400 g.
'Roll the dough out (14 oz., in the middle and and fold fold the edges of (14
oz.,l| cups) butter in the dough over it. The butter should have been kneaded in a
napkin napkin to extract water and to make it supple and smooth. Make sure that it
is entirely thickness entirely enclosed with an even thickness quickly as of dough
dough aU all round. This should should he be done done as as quickly of round. This
possible. The The dough dough should he be folded folded in in 3 layers layers of
equal possible. to the the same same dimensions, turning it length. Roll out again
to length. RoU out before rolling rolling so so that its width becomes its i15
former width its length. Fold it again in the same way, and roll out so that it is
5 cm. (2 inches) longer than it is wide. Put it quickly onto a a plate (2 lightly
and stand on crushed ice spread Iightly sprinkled with flour and pan. Cover same
length and out to to coyer the same cover the and width width as as the pan. a
piece of paper, on which you stand a the dough with a a plate of crushed ice.
plate, tum 'After 3 4 minutes minutes remove remove the 'After 3 or or 4 the top
top plate, turn the dough over and and coyer dough cover again. Begin the same
operation operation ail all give the you give again, after after which which you
over the dough over again, dough 2 2 turns turns as described above. above. Put Put
the dough dough on on ice ice again, turning it it as described carefully as as
before. before. Give another tum turn or two, depending on the use use for which it
is intended. be taken to to sprinkle the the top and and bottom of 'Care should be
paste with flour the paste flour very sparingly when turning it, otherwise it goes
grey in the baking. 'When the dough has been given the last tum, turn, it should be
placed in the oyen used at at once, being placed oven 4, 6 or, at at the most, used
last rolling out. out. If 8 minutes after after the last If it it is is ready 20 20
or 25 8 can he be put in the oyen, oven, it will be dull dull and minutes before it
can tough.' (Le pdtissier pâtissier royale.) pastry or puff pff pastry pastry made
(Car0me's recipe). recipe). Flaky pastry made with oU oil (Carême's Flaky pArs
FEUILLETÉE rsunrprir À A L'HrfiE 'Proceed as PÂTE L'HUILE - 'Proceed in the as
described described in (see below), for Pudding pastry or su recipe for suet recipe
et flaky flaky pastry (sec (generous j pint, lf cups) oil using oil, not lard. Add
3+ dl. (generous and turning of flaky pastry. Then cut as during the rolling and
usual.' prstry or rough pff ilasny. pArE DEMI-FEUILSemi-flaky pastry Semi-flaky
DEMr-FEUTLLETAGE rnr6r, DEMI-FEUILLETAGE LETÉE, - Cut out puff pastry into patties,
vol-au-vent, etc., etc., and and collect collect the the left-over pieces together
vol-au-vent, ball. into a bail. making This dougtr, also called rognures, can be
used for making tartlets, croustades, tartlets, tartlets, etc. onal-smme:o
tartlets, boat-shaped pArr FEUILLETÉE prff pastry. PÂTE rsulrrErfn Three-DÙnute
Threminute flaky pastry or puff EN TROIS MINUTEs -Ingredients. oz.,3f 400 g. (14
oz., 31 cups) sifted EN rRols MINUTES - Ingredients.400 (18 oz., g. (18 flour, 500
g. oz., 2Lo cups) cups) butter, teaspoons salt, fi our, 500 butter, 1 teaspoons 2j
dl. (scant 1 I pint, generous cup) water. give the dough 4 turns. Method. Mix the
ingredients and give rAre FEUILLETÉE rnu[rnrEe À A LA Viennese flaky pastry pastry
or prffpasfy. puff pastry. PÂTE g. (18 oz., 4j cups) sifted flour, oz., 41
VIENNOISE Ingredients. 500 g. vrENNoIsE - Ingredients. (scant yolks, 2t (18 oz., g.
(18 2+ dl. dl. (scant cups) butter, 2 2 egg egg yolks, 500 500 g. oz., 2| cups)
water, 1t teaspoons salt. * pinq generous cup) water, Method. Mix half the flour
with the yolks, water and and salt. blending Mix the rest of the flour with a third
of the butter, blending a knife. them with a a thin square sheet. Roll out the
flour-and-water flour-and-water paste to a mixture into a square of a smaller Shape
Shape the butter-and-flour butter-and-flour mixture put it on it and and folding
size size and and put on the other paste, enclosing it the edges. Roll out as
described described in puff pastry recipes. edges. Roll ,1, L'EAU - This used for
This is Flour-and-water paste. pArs PÂTE À is used Flour-and-wate paste. luting, or
luting, hermetically sealing, earthenware casserole and or hermetically wann made
by cocotte Iids. ft It is is made by mixing flour with enough warm cocotte lids. a
soft paste. Use as indicated. water 10 tain a to ob obtain pArs rnvfn PouR TARTES
TARTES Leavened dougb LEVÉE POUR dough for tarts. tarts PÂTE - The paste for as for
leavened paste for tarts the same as best recipe for tar15 is is the for leavened
best recipe I. Brioche dough 1. g.(18 A more ordinary dough can be made using 500
g. (18 oz.,
sifted flour, 4 eggs, 11 4f cups) sifted l f teaspoons salt, 1| tablespoons
tablespoons salt" 1 4! (* oz.) yeast, 2{ dl. g. (1 sugar, 10 l0 g. dl. (scant 1
sugar, } pint, generous cup) milk and and 200 g. (7 oz., oz., scant cup) butter.
milk: butter. Proceed as as describod in I. in the recipe Proceed recipe for
Brioche dough 1. pAm À pasb or pastry psstry dougb dogh 1. roNcrn FINE A FONCER
Fine lining paste I. PÂTE (l I oz., 4f cups) sifted sifted flour, 300 g. (Il
Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., 4t Ingredients.500 (f pint, pint, 3 cup) water, 50 g.
(2 l$ I egg dl. 1 i- cups) butter, l It l. Ü Q oz., Ud teaspoons salt. ",rp) I cup)
fine sugar, 1| teaSp()0I1S Method. Spread the flour in a circle on the board, make
a well in the middle and and put in in the egg, egg, butter, water, sugar,
ingredients together and incorporate incorporate the and salt. Mix these these
ingredien15 flour, little by little. roll the paste into a bail, ball, wrap in a
c1oth, cloth, and Knead twice, roH plaoe until ready for use. keep in a cold place
Lining paste should always be made several hours before it is The less as it
quickly it is needed. The less it is is handled the better, better, as becomes
tough. pArn (tart pasfry). PÂTE pastry dough fi II (tart Ordinary paste or pastry
Ordinary lining paste g. (18 oz., oz.,4j cups) À Ingredients. 500 g. roNcen
ORDINAIRE oRDTNATRE A FONCER - Ingredients. pint, g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter,
2 dl. (f pin 250 g. t, sifted flour, 250 teaspoons salt. scant cup) water, lf
teaspoons Method. Proceod as described described in the recipe recipe for Fine
lining paste. Pastry dougb dou$ for bot hot or cold pies see PASTRY. - sec
(Car0ne's recipe). pastry (Carême's recipe). or suet sret flaky flaky pastry
hdditrg pastry or pArs FEUILLETÉE PÂTE BOEUF 'Remove skin and reurLl-nrrn A LA
GRAISSE cRArssE DE BoEUF -'Remove (l lb.) of suet, chop it up g. (l up very finely
and fibre from 450 g. fibre pound good olive oil. Add in a with 1 I tablespoon good
pound in a mortar with tablespoons oil, little by little, as as you pound it.
several more tablespoons This gives it body and and softens it, so so that the This
the suet becomes as soft and easy to work as butter. butter. as place of
proportions. 'Proceed to use it 'Proceed it in place of butter, in in the same
proportions. 'Lard can be used instead instead of of oil and by using suet and lard
equal proportions, very good puff paste is obtairled, very in equaJ must be eaten
hot.' agreeable to the palate, but it must (See suitable for entrée This type of
puff paste is entrie pies. is sui table for pies. (Sec TOURTES (PrES).)

2i

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pArs À Savarin dmgh 1. L PÂTE A SAVARIN Ingredients. 500 snvmrN - Ingredienls. 500
g. (18 oz., 4| cups) sifted (9 oz., g. (9 generous cup) sifted flour, flour,250
oz., generous 250 g. butter, 50 g. (2 oz., oz., cup) cup) sugar, sugar, 1 teaspoons
salt, 10 l0 g. teaspoons salt, (* oz.) yeast,6 to 8 eggs, 2 dl. (t (+ pint, scant
cup) milk. Method. Dissolve the yeast in in about 2t 2| dl. (scant I pint, generous
a third of the flour. IoI.t:IIt:HJU:S cup) warm water, adding it to a Blend and
leave to rise until the leaven more than doubles doubles its i15 volume. Spread the
rest of the flour in a circle on the board, make add salt and and two thirds of the
eggs. a well in the middle and add Work the mixture by hand give it more body, hand
to Work to give body, then add rest of the eggs and and the milk. milk. Knead until
the paste no the rest longer sticks to the hands. and pour in the leaven. Blend the
Add the butter quickly and mixture to to make it smooth and, last la st of ail,
all, add add the the sugar. a bowl, coyer cover with a Put the dough in a a c1oth,
cloth, and stand stand in a cool place. Leave until the following day. a special
border, mould, is A mould with a border, called callod a savarin mould, cake.
Butter the mould and and half-fill half-fill it used for baking this cake. Stand in
a warm place and leave the dough with the dough. Stand oven to rise until it
completely fills the mould. Bake Bake in a a hot oyen 20 to to 35 35 minutes,
according to size of the mould. mould. from 20 to the size pArs À A SAVARIN Savarin
fi. PÂTE Savarin dugb IL s,lvmrx - This This is is a a shorter formula. The
ingredients are identical. identical. Put sifted flour in a bowl. Mix the leaven
and ard the dough Put the sifted in the order described described ab above. Add the
melted butter, still in the order ove. Add sugar, and Add the the leaven and and
sugar, and use at warm, to the dough. Add warm, to once. dou$ Ill. III. pAre 500 g.
PÂTE À SAVARIN Ingredients. 500 sevmnl - Ingredients. . Savarin doogb 4| cups)
sifted sifted flour, 375 375 g. (13 oz., generous l! lj cups) (18 oz., 4t

hrffpashy-

See

FLAKY PASTRY.

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318
DOUGH DOUGH
butter, butter, 3 tablespoons tablespoons fine fine sugar, 20 20 g.G g. (1 oz.,
oz., I 1 cake) yeast, yeast, 8 8 eggs, I 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons,
scant seant * ~ crrp) cup) milk, milk, lj 1t teaspoons teaspoons
Cr0pe Crêpe batter batter (sweet). (sweet), pArs PÂ'Œ A À IANNEQUETS PANNEQUETS -
Put Put 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,2t oz., 2i cups) sifted flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. (4
(4 oz., oz., t i cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar and a a pinch pinch of of salt
into a bowl. bowl. Add Add 6 whole who le eggs. eggs. Stir Stir the the mixture
with with a a wooden wooden spoon spoon until unti] smooth. smooth. Dilute Dilute
with with 7+ 7~ dl. (l+ (I~ pints, pints, lf l~ pints) pints) boiled boiled milk
miLk flavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, orange, or or lemon, lemon,
depending on the the nature nature of of the the pancakes. pancakes. Add Add 1
tablespoon tablespoon butter butter heated heated to to noisette noisel/e colour
eolour (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) and and I 1 tablespoon brandy brandy or rum. Blend
well. weil. Cussy batter. batter. pAre PÂ'Œ A À cussY cUSSY - Ingredients.
Ingredients. 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine fine sugar,
sugar, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., scantcup) scantcup) rice lice flour, flour, 7 7
whole eggs, 65 g. (21o2.,5 (2i OZ., 5 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, I 1
tablespoon vanilla-flavoured salt. vanilla-flavoured sugar, sugar, a a pinch pinch
of ofsalt. Method. Method. Put the eggs, eggs, sugar, sugar, vanilla vanilla sugar,
sugar, and salt into into a basin. Whisk the the eggs over a low low heat. When
When the the mixture mixture is well weil whisked, add the rice flour flour and
melted butter. butter. Batter Batter for for soufr6 soulHé fritters. fritters. pArp
PÂ'Œ A À BEIGNETs BEIGNETS sotrrrr.fs SOUFFLÉS Prepare in as Chou paste in the the
same way way as paste d'ffice, d'office, adding 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons sugar sugar
for the proportions proportions indicated in in that tha t recipe. recipe. Batter
Batler for for Vienna Vienna fritters. fritters. pArs PÂTE A À BEIGNBTS BEIGNETS
vIENNoIS VlENNOlS losing for Brioche dough using Proceed Proceed as as described
described in the recipe for (18 o2.,4| scant cup) 500 g. (l8 oz., 41 cups) sieved
flour, flour, 200 g(7 g (7 oz., seant yeast,2l salt, butter, 6 eggs, butter,6 eggs,
20 g.G g. (1 oz., oz., I 1 cake) yeast, 2t teaspoons teaspoons salt, (6
tablespoons, scant I cup) I tablespoon sugar sugar and I llab]espoon 1 dl. (6
tablespoons, scant cup) milk. milk. pArs A g. (18 Galettebatter. Galette blltter.
PÂ'Œ À clrBrrrGALET'Œ - Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., (13 oz.,
generous generous lI g. (13 4f cups) sifted flour, 4tcups)sifted flour, 375 g. II
cups) butter, butter, g. (t (+ pint, 1 tablespoon) fine 15 g. l+ dl. (i li dl.
pint, t ~ cup) water, water, 15 OZ., 1 fine G oz., sugar and and 11 teaspoons
teaspoons salt. Method. Mix as described described in the recipe for Fine lining
Iining paste. paste. stand without kneading. Leave Roll the dough into a ball baIl
without Leave to to stand in a cool place for 2 hours. it to Give the dough 3
turns, leaving Icaving it to stand for for l0 10 minutes minutes before between
belween each turn. Leave to to stand for for a a few few minutes before use.
galettes (biscuits). A PErIrEs salted galettes for little Batter Batier for IIt1Je
salted PÂ'Œ À PETITES @iscuits). pArs (9 oz., g. (9 sifted o2.,2| cups) sifted
cALErrEs SALÉES sAr.EEs GALETTES Ingredients. 250 g. 2i cups) - Ingredients. (6
tablespoons, (4 oz., g. (4 I dl. tablespoons, seant scant dl. (6 oz.,l butter, 1
flour, 100 g. t cup) butter, (l oz., and l! g. (1 fine sugar sugar and milk, 25 25
g. o2.,2 ! 2 tablespoons) tab]espoons) fine 1 cup) milk, "up) teaspoons teaspoons
salt. a weil well in in the the flour on on a a board, Method. Pour the flour Pour
the Method. board, make a put the it. Add Add the the butter, and salt salt into
into il. middle and and put sugar and middle the sugar Knead aIl slightly warmed.
warmed. Knead all has been been slightly and the the milk milk which which has and
for leave to to stand stand for ball, and leave ingredients together, a baU, the
ingredienls together, roll into a minutes. 30 minutes. (i inch) Prick inch) in in
thickness. thickness. Prick to t Roll the the dough out out to cm. (± Roll 1c-. (2-
inch) a 6-cm. 6-cm. (2-inch) out with with a with a a fork. fork. Cut Cut out the
surface with over the galettes on and metal tray tray and pastry-cutter. Put on a a
metal Put the the galettes round pastry-cutter. round oven for about about 10
minutes. bake in a hot oyen pArs À (13 oz., g. (13 oz., A GÉNOISE /ngredients.375
ctNotsn 375 g. Genoese batter. PÂ'Œ - Ingredients. (18 oz., g. (18 2f cups) cups)
fine fine sugar, oz., 2i flour, 500 500 g. 3$ cups) cups) sifted sifted flour, 3!
flavouring. (7 OZ., 16 eggs, eggs, flavouring. g. (7 melted butter, butter, 16
scant cup) melted 2A0 g. oz., seant 200 very slowly slowly and cook cook very sugar
and and eggs, eggs, and the sugar Method. Blend Blend the Method. pan of until the
hot water. Whisk Whisk until a pan of hot heat or or over over a low heat over low
over gently heat. Stirring Stirring gently Remove from from heat. a ribbon. ribbon.
Remove mixture makes a and melted flour and flavouring, flour add the flavouring,
wooden spoon, add with a a wood en spoon, with pouring the latter in in a a small
small thread. Put into buttered, butter, pouling hot oven. oven. in a a hot floured
tins tins and and bake bake in floured vanilla sugar, sugar, with vaniJla flavoured
with be flavoured may he batter may Genoese batter Genoese peel, or liqueur. or
liqueur. lemon or or orange orange peel, extract, lemon vanilla extract, pAre À as
described described Proceed as A GOUGÈRE couctnn -- Proceed Gougbre batter. PÂTE
Gougère paste. to After adding adding eggs eggs to chou pas the recipe recipe for
for Ordinary Ordinary chou in the in te. After generous 2 (9 oz., g. (9 2 cups)
cups) paste, finish 250 g. oz., generous finish off off with with 250 the paste,
the small dice. dice. in very very small Gruydre cheese cheese eut cut in Gruyère
pArr À ( I 8 oz., g. (18 oz., 500 g. A MANQUÉ-Ingredients. u.LNqu6 - .Ing r edient
s. 500 batter. PÂTE Manqu6 blliter. Manqué g. (14 oz., flour, 300 300 g. g. (14
cups) sifled sifted flour, 400 g. 2| cups) o2.,3| cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 400
2i 3! cups) yolks, ]6 egg (11 beaten egg 16 stilHy stifly beaten l$ cups) cups)
butter, butter, 18 18 egg egg yolks, oz., It (J 1 oz., (scant I cup) rum. whites, 3
tablespoons cup) rum. tablespoons (seant! whites,3 yolks and until and the the
sugar sugar in in a a bowl bowl until Method. Cream the yolks Cream the Method.
flour, light. Add Add the the rum rum and and flour, white and and lighl. the
mixture mixture becomes becomes white the

fine salt. salt. Method. Method. Put the sifted flour in a bowl, bowl, make make a
well in the the middle and and put in the yeast. yeast. Moisten the yeast yeast
with with the the warm milk and and stir. Add the eggs one by one, mixing the the
wann paste hands to blend blend well. weil. Soften the the butter, butter, divide
divide paste with the the hands it into small put them on the paste. Cover Coyer
the the sm aU pieces, and put bowl warm place place to ferment until untiJ the
dough bowl and stand in a wann doubles its volume. blend in the the butter butter
and Add the salt. Knead the dough to blend so until the dough dough acquires
sufficient body continue to do so to be be lifted lifted in one piece. piece. Add
the the sugar and and knead a a few blend well. weil. minutes longer to blend
dOllgh [V. IV. pArn PÂ'Œ A À slvlnIN SAVARIN - Ingredients. Ingredients. 500 500 g.
g. Savarin dough (18 (l8 oz., 4j 4t cups) sifted flour, 350 g. g. (12 (] 2 oz.,
OZ., lf 1 ~ cups) cups) butter, butter, g. (i 2 teaspoons teaspoons sugar, l0 lOg.
Goz.) yeast, 7 eggs, eggs, I 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, spoons, scant seant I t cup)
milk, 1t teaspoons teaspoons fine salt. Method. Method. Prepare a a leaven, leaven,
using a a quarter of the the flour, small bowl, the yeast and the warm wann milk.
Put this leaven in a smaU bowl, coyer, and stand in a warm place to ferment. cover,
Mix of the flour with half M ix the rest of half the butter, butter, the eggs, and
the salt. Blend weIl, well, kneading the paste. Add the leaven, the rest which has
been softened, rest of the butter, which softened, and and the sugar. Continue
Continue to knead the dough for a a few few moments. pasfi I. I. pArs $cHu SUCRÉE
sucnfu - Ingredienls. Sbort PÂTE SÈCHE Ingredients. 500 500 g. Short pllslry g. (7
oz., scant cup) butter, 4| cups) sifted flour, 200 g. butter, (18 oz., 41 (5 OZ.,
g. (5 eggs, 150 g. oz., 1 3 eggs, i tablespoon orange orange t cup) fine sugar, I
blossom water or 1 orange extract. blossom water teaspoon orange I teaspoon
described in the recipe for Fine lining Method. Proceed as described paste I. paste
or pastry dough 1. pArE sucRÉE (9 oz., g. (9 II. PÂ'Œ sucnfu Short pastry paslry n.
Ingredients. 250 g. - Ingredients.250 (3 oz., g. (3 6 tablespoons) sugar, 75 g.
oz., 6 2t cups) flour, 75 sifted flour, 2± cups) sifted small pinch of salt, (7
oz., g. (7 I egg, egg, a a small butter, 1 oz., scant cup) butter, 200 g. lelTIon
peel peel or vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. lemon well in in the the a
weil flour in in a a circle, circle, make a Method. Spread Spread the flour salt,
and put in softened butter, butter, salt, sugar, well well softened and put in the
the sugar, centre and exception of flour, into the exception these ingredients,
with the egg. Mix these egg. paste as the paste the flour, flour, kneading the
Incorporate the a pa!:te. Incorporate a soft soft paste. it hold together. enough
to make it little as as possible, only enough ou! and cut as desired. Leave for 2
hours, roll roU out, pArs À (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. A BABA slsA, - Ingredients. Baba
hatter. Ingredients. 500 batter. PÂTE Baha (ll OZ., llcups) butter, g. (11 oz.,
generous I±cups) 4|cups) flour, 300 g. 41 cups) sieved flour, yeast, I! tablespoons
g. (~ tablespoons sugar, I cake) cake) yeast, 7 7 eggs, 20 g. oz., 1 eggs, 20 G
OZ., (half (a oz., ~ half), I dl. dl. g. (4 and sultanas sultanas (ha cup) raisins
and 100 g. If and ha If), 1 t cup) salt. (6 tablespoons, 2| teaspoons teaspoons
salt. wann milk, milk, 2t scant ~ tablespoons, seant (6 t cup) warm the dough for
Savarin dough. When the Proceed as as for Savarin dough. Method. Proceed Pour into
and sugar. sugar. Pour raisins, sultanas sultanas and is is made, made, add add the
the raisins, the moulds. filling only only one one third of the baba moulds,
filling buttered baba like savarins. Bake in a hot hot oyen, oven, Iike Bake in a
pour over syrup flavoured over them thern sugar sugar syrup When cooked, pour When
cooked, with liqueur. with pprtrs GÂ pAm À cAreA,trx A PETITS for smaG biscuits.
PÂ'Œ tea biscuits. 'ŒAUX Dalter Batter for small tea (ll oZ., g. (II (18 OZ., oz.,
sifted flour, g. (18 4| cups) flour, 300 300 g. oz., 4i Ingredients.500 cups)
sifted Ingredients. 500 g. yolks, 1 tablespoon whole egg, 4 egg egg yolks, cups)
sugar, sugar, 1 whole eE& 4 l:t cups) orange blossom blossom wa water. orange ter.
knead it manner, knead it in the the usual usual manner, dough in Method. Mix Mix
the the dough Method. place in a a cold cold place and leave leave it it to to
stand stand in twice, roll it it into into a a ball, ball, and twice, for 1 I or
or2hours. 2 hours. for (l inch). t cm inch). Cut Cut a thickness of 1 c- (t out the
dough to to a thickness of Roll out the dough Roll on a a baking baking tray tray
cutters. Put Put them them on into biscuits biscuits with with pastry cutters. into
with halved halved almonds, almonds, egg. Decorate and brush Decorate with and
brush with with beaten beaten egg. peel, and oven. When When hot oyen. and bake in
a a hot cherries and and candied candied peel, bake in cherries gum of gum remove
from oven, brush brush with with a a solution solution of ready, remove from the
the oyen, ready, and boiled boiled down down arabic, or boiJing milk mixed mixed
with with sugar sugar and boiling milk ara bic, or this manner, manner, the the
biscuits biscuits to a a syrupy syrupy consistency. Treatod in in Ihis to
consistency. Treated keep better. keep better CREPES. Cr0pe batter batter -- See
See CRÊPES. Crèpe

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319 319
DOUILLET DOUILLET
and mix. mix. Fold Fold in pour in in the the stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten whites,
whites, and and pour in the the and melted. butter. melted. butter, Butter à d
manqué manqui moulds, moulds, dust pour in dust with with flour, flour, pour in the
the Butter mixture and and bake bake in in a moderate oyen. a moderate oven.
mixture pArs À MAZARIN Mazarin batter. batter. PÂTE MAzARTN - Mixture Mixture of of
baba baba and and Mazarin proportions. brioche dough dough in in equal equal
proportions. brioche paste is This paste plain genoese genoese cake is usually
usually baked baked in in plain cake tins. tins. This pAre À Fine spollge sponge
cake cake or or biscuit biscuit batter. batter. PÂTE A BISCUITS Brscurrs FINS FrNS
Fine g. (18 (l 8 oz., (yolks Ingredients. 500 500 g. oz., 2i 2f, cups) cups) fine
fine sugar, l0 eggs eggs (yolks sugar, 10 Ingredients. (4o2., and whitcs whites
separated), g. (4 g. separated), ] 125 I cup) cup) sieved flour, 125 125 g. sieved
flour, and 25 g. OZ., ] (4 OZ., (l OZ., potato flour, g. (] o2.,3 flour, 25 25 g.
vanillao2.,2 tablespoons) vanilla(4 1cuP) potato 2 tablespoons) ".rp) flavoured
pinch ofsalt. sugar, small of salt. small pinch flavoured sugar, yolks with Method.
Blend Blend the the yolks with the the sugar, sugar, vanilla vanilla sugar, sugar,
Method. and salt salt with with a a wood wooden spoon. When quite When the the
mixture mixture is is quite and en spoon. smooth add add the the whites, whisked to
to a a stiff stifffroth, whites, whisked and then add add smooth froth, and potato
flour. flour. the flour flour and and potato the pAm À Italian sponge sponge cake
cake or or biscuit biscuit balter. batter. PÂTE A BISCUITS Brscurrs Italian
ITALIENS - Ingredients. (9 OZ., Ingredimts. 250 g. (9 250 g. o2.,2 cups) lump lump
sugar, sugar, ITALIENS 2 cups) (yolks and 4 eggs eggs (yo]ks and whites whites
separated), g. (4 (4 OZ., separated), 125 125 g. oz., 1 I cup) 4 sieved flour,
flour, salt. salt. sieved Method. Put pan, moisten Put the the sugar sugar in (6 in
a a pan, moisten with with 1 dl. dl. (6 Method. tablespoons, seant scant ~ cup)
water, water, cook cook to to hard hard bail bafldegree tablespoons, degree ".rp)
(see SUGAR) SUGAR) and and allow allow to cool cool to half iLS to half its
temperature. (see lO yolks, then Add the the yolks, flour and then the the flour
and salt, salt, and and fold fold in in the Add stifly beaten whites. stiffiy
beaten whites. pAre ft. Ordinary spooge sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit
balter. batter. PÂTE A BISCUITS Brsctrrrs Ordinary (9 OZ., oRDINATRES g. (9
generous cup) 250 g. cup) fine fine oz., generous ORDINAJRES Ingredients. 250 -
Ingredients. (yolks and (5 oz., sugar, 8 8 eggs g. (5 eggs (yolks whites
separated), 150 g. oz., li lf, and whites separated), ]50 sugar, cups) sifted
flour, salt. sifted flour, cups) Method. Proceed as described in the recipe for for
Fine sponge Melhod. Procced as Fine sponge cake or or hiscuil biscuit halter.
batter. cake pArs ft. Reims sponge sponge cake or biscuit A BISCUITS Brscurrs DE
Reims cake or biscuit batter. baller. PÂTE REIMs g. (1] OZ., Ingredients. 12 eggs,
eggs, 300 300 g. oz., l{ cups) fine Ingredients. 12 ]~ cups) REIMS (6 OZ., g. (6
sugar, 175 175 g. oz., cups) sieved sieved flour, sugar, cups) ftour, 1 tablespoon
vanilla-flavoured sugar, small small pinch vanilla-flavoured sugar, pinch salt.
Method. sugar, 12 egg egg whites and and l0 into a Melhod. Put Put the the sugar,
JO yolks yolks into bowl whisk over over a a low bowl and and wlùsk low heat heat
until until the the mixture mixture becomes firm and smooth. firm. and smooth. Add
Add the the flour flour and vanilla vanilla sugar. Mix Mix with with a wooden
spoon. a wood en spoon. Swiss sponge sponge cake cake or or biscuit Swiss biscuit
batter. baUer. pArs PÂTE A À Brscurr BISCUIT DE DE srvolr-Ingredients.500 (18 oz.,
g. (18 2f cups) fine sugar, sugar, 175 g. SA VOIE Ingredients. 500 g. OZ., 2;\ g.
(6 cups) sieved sieved flour, (6 o2.,1| OZ., 11: cups) flour, 175 g. g. (6 (6
o2.,1| oz., li cups) cornstarch (cornflour), 14 (separated), ] tablespoon eggs
(separated). (cornflour), 14 eggs tablespoon vanillavanillaflavoured sugar.
flavoured sugar. Method. sugar and and the egg Melhod. Blend Blend the the sugar
cgg yolks yolks together in in a bowl until the the mixture mixture forms forms a a
ribbon. ribbon. Add Add the the flour, flour, bowl until cornstarch, cornstarch,
vanilla vanilla sugar sugar and and stiffiy stiffly whisked whisked egg egg whites.
Mix Mix quiekly. quickly. Butter sprinkle with Butter a a baking baking tin, tin,
sprink]e with cornstarch comstarch and pour pour in the the mixture, mixture,
filling filling two two thirds thirds of of the the tin. tin. Bake Bake in a slow
slow oven. oyen. Sponge Sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit batter, batter,
whisked whisked over heat. hea!. pArn PÂTE A ft. Brscurrs BISCUITS suR SUR r-E LE
reu FEl! - Break Break 12 12 eggs eggs into into a pan. pan. Add Add 500 g. g. (18
salt. Keeping (l8 oz., OZ., 2f 2i cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar and a a small
small pinch pinch of ofsa]t. Kecping the the pan pan on on the the edge edge of of
the the burner, burner, whisk wh.isk the the mixture mixture until until it it
becomes becomes very very firm firm and and smooth. smooth. Still Still whisking,
whisking, add add 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., OZ., 1| 10\ cups) cups) potato potato
flour. flour. Sponge Sponge fingers fillgers batter. batter. pAru PÂTE A À Brscurr
BISCUIT A À LA cunrrn ClJILLER Ingredients.500 sugar, 375 g. Ingredienls. 500 g. g.
(18 (18 oz.,2tcups) OZ., 2~cups) fine finesugar, g. (13 (13 oz., oz., 3| 3;\ cups)
cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 16 16 eggs cggs (separated), (separated), 1
tablespoon tablespoon orange orange blossom blossom water. water. Method. Melhod.
Mix Mix the the egg egg yolks yolks and and the the sugar sugar in in a a bowl,
bowl, creaming creaming the the mixture mixture until unti! it it forms forms a a
ribbon. ribbon. Add Add the the flavouring, flavouring, mix mix in the the flour,
flour, and and fold fold in in the the stiffiy stiffly whisked whisked egg egg
whites. whites. Pour lf-cm. (f-inch) Pour the the mixture mixture into into a a
pastry-bag pastry-bag with with a aIt-cm. (~-inch) nozzle. nozzle. Pipe Pipe the
the biscuits biscuits onto onto strong strong paper paper and and sprinkle sprinklc
with with plenty plenty of of fine fine sugar. sllgar. Shake Shake off off the the
surplus surplus sugar by by lifting lifting the the ends ends of of the the paper.
paper. Moisten the (which the biscuits with a a few few drops biscuits with drops
of of cold cold water water (WhlCh Moisten will ensure ensure beading) beading) and
and bakc bake in in a very slow a very slow oyen. oven. will

(Pry au DOUILLET or or COCHON COCHON AU plre) AU PÈRE PDRE (Pig ru père) DOUILLET
Popular dish dish of of an an eartier earlier age. age. Pierre Lune, esquire Pierre
de de Lune, esquire of Poplliar of household of (173,1-1803) gives the household
gives of the the Prince Prince de de Rohan Rohan (1734--1803) the following recipe;
the folJowing recipe: the 'Cut the pig into pieces. Blanch pieces and the pig into
pieces. Blanch the the pieces and interlard interlard 'Cut pork fat partly from
partly with pork fat eut cut partly from the the outer outer layer layer and and
partly with from the the beJly. belly. Put Put them them in in a a cloth cloth and
and season season with with salt, salt, from pepper, whole green lemons cloves,
nutmeg, nutmeg, bay whole c]oves, bay leaves, leaves, green pepper, and spring
spring onions. onions. Cook pot with Cook in in a a pot with stock stock and and a
little a IiU]e and white wine. wine. Make Make sure sure tbat that the the finished
finished dish dish is is highly white seasoned. Leave to to stand stand until until
]ukewarm. lukewarm. Serve Serve with seasoned. with slices slices of lemon.'
oflemon.'

DOUZ,IL or DOUSlL DOUSILfor the wood wooden spigot DOUZIL - French word for en
spigot plug the used to to plug the ho hole in the the vat vat from from which
which the the wine wine is is used le in (See CONFRÉRiES extracted. (Sec CONFRERIES
VINEUSES, la la Confrérie Confririe extracted. des tire-douzils.) tire-douzils.\
des DOVE. COLOMBE coLoMBE DOVE.
See PIGEON. - Sec
j

and is is very sweet. sweet. (See PEAR.) and

DOYENNE pear which of pcar which melts in the the mouth mouth DOYENNÉ melts in -
Variety of
DRAFF. DRÈCHE onicne - By-product By-product of barley DRAFF. barley used used in
in brewing. It is also used for fodder. usod for It DRAGOhIET. DOUCETTE DoucETrE -
Another for corn corn salad DRAGONET. Another name name for (q.v.). (q.v.).

DRAINING. ÉGOUTTER 6courrm. - Draining Draining off off excess excess liquid
DRAINING. liquid from foodstuffs which which have been washed, washed, or blanched
in in boiling water and cooled under running running water.
(poultry, game, and DRESSING (poultry, and fish). fisb). HABTLLAcE HABILLAGE -
Poultry game are or winged winged game are dressed dressed by or by being being
plucked, plucked, drawn, singed, trimmed, trimmed, and and trussed. trussed. The
dressing of fish consists singed, dressing of fish consists gutting, and scaling,
gutting, and trimming. of scaling,

l| 11

(ll

DRINKING DRINKING STRAW.

cHALr.nilEAU Hollow stem ofstraw, of straw. CHALUMEAlJ - Hollow glass, metal,

pap€r, paper, or plastic used used for drinking drinking cold drinks.

DRIPPING DRIPPING PAN. PA.:'I/. rtcsEFRIrE LÈCHEFRITE - Rectangular Rectangular

pan, pan, usually of a spit. spit. The juices of metal, metal, placed under under
food food roasted roasted on on a juices of of the roast drip drip into the pan.

DROMEDARY. DROMEDARY. nnou.loArRn DROMADAfRE - Camel (q.v.) with only one

hump.

DRUM. especially DRUM. EsrAcNoN ESTAGNON - Container Container in which liquids,

especially
oil, are transported. transported. DRUPE DRUPE - French term for a fruit with a
single single stone. putting putting it it on the stove for a few seconds. Thus
green vegevcgetables boiled boiled in in salt water are dried or, more more
accurately, dehydrated when they are stood for a very short short time over a a hot
hot flame flame to to evaporate excess moisture absorbed by by the the vegetables
vegetables during cooking. cooking. When they they have have been been dried, the
vegetables vegetables are tossed tossed in in butter. bu 11er. In In France,
France, the the term term dessicher dessécher is is also also used used of of
cooking cooking
panadas panadas and dough dough on the the stove. stove. The The term term 'drying'
'drying' is is not not synonymous synOn)TI10US with with 'reducing', 'reducing',
which refers refers only on]y to to the the process process of boiling boiling down
down certain certain liquids liquids so that that they they are reduced reduced in
in volume. volume.

DRYING. DRYING. orssfcnm. DESSËCHER - Dehydrating Dehydrating a solid solid of any

kind by by

u I

DUBARRY DUBARRY (A (A LA) LA) - Garnish Gamish for for meat mcat which which
comprises comprises small smaU flowerets flowerets of of cauliflower cauliflower
covered covered with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkled
with with grated grated cheese cheese and and breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs, and and
browned. browned.

DUBLIN DUBLIN BAY BA Y PRAWNS PRA WNS (Italian, (Italian, scampi). scampi).
LANGousrrNE LANGOUSTINE 320

Common Corn mon names names for for the the Nephrops Nephrops norvegicus.
norvegicus. This This shellfish, shellfish,
DUCK
the size of a prawn, prawn, is orange in colour with whitewhiteabout the cooking.
tipped claws and legs. It does not change colour in cooking. tipped They are are
prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as shrimps shrimps and They
hors-d'oeuvre. served as hors-d'oeuvre. AIl recipes for freshwater crayfish, and
shellfish shellfish generally, All are suitable suitable for for Dublin Dublin Bay
Bay prawns, prawns, which which can can also also be are prepared d à I'amiricaine
l'américaine or d à la bordelaise. bordelaise.
Rouen duck the Rouen exceeds exceeds 2 2 ke. kg. @i (4~ lb.) lb.) in in weight,
weight, whilst whilst the (5+ lb.). 2ike. weighs weighs about 2~ kg. (5~ quality
The Roum Rouen duckling owes its reputation reputation to the fine quality It is of
its flesh ftesh and and also to the method by which it it is is killed. It is
guinea-fowl, all other fowl (except guinea-fowl, smothered, smotbered, not bled as
are ail like shot, like is often shol, which in the south-western part of France is
game). The fact none of its blood before being fact that it loses loses none gives
red and and gives stay red duck stay cooked makes the flesh ftesh of the Rouen duck
connoisseurs. flavour much prized by connoisseurs. it a special ftavour

Duchesse d'Angoulême Duchesse d'Angoul€me pears

DUCHESSE an excellent excellent table - Winter pear which makes an fruit. fruit.
preparations, (A LA) DUCHESSE (À - Name given to various preparations, especiallya
A TOES, potatoes. (See POT POTATOES, especially a method of of preparing potatoes.
Duchess potatoes.) Duchess

DUCHESSE MIXTURE blended with Pur6e of potatoes blended - Purée (see POTATOES) egg
yolk. yolk. It is made Duchess potatoes (see made into into Duchess and and into
borders. savoury cases, etc. DUCHESSES fours which as follows: follows: are made
made as Petits fours which are - Petits (21 oz., Pound g. (21sweet almonds almonds
60 g. oz., 1cup) sweet in a mortar 60 Pound in a mortar + cup) with quantity of
hazelnuts, I egg egg hazelnuts, and and blend blend with with 1 with the the same
same quantity (2 oz., white. g. (2 white. Add g. (Il (ll oz., Add 300 oz' fine
sugar, 50 g. 300 g. oz., lt l{ cups) cups) fine sugar, 50 ·sugar, and (2 oz.) g.Q
50 g. oz.) chocolate. chocolate. vanilla-flavoured.sugar, and 50 i cup) vanilla-
ftavoured Add Pipe thoroughly. Pipe Add to egg whites whites and and mix mix
thoroughly. to this this mixture mixture 3 3 egg into little balls on in a a
moderate moderate oyen. oven. on a a baking sheet. sheet. Bake Bake in

DUCK. many bird of of which which many DUCK. CANARD cANARD -- Web-footed Web-footed
water water bird species domestic ducks ducks are are bred, bred, Varieties of
species are are known. known. Varieties of domestic some plumage. of their their
plumage. some for food, others others because of the beauty of Their (le canard
sauvage), which which is is Their ancestor ancestor is is the the wild duck duck
(le canard sauvage), found in North Africa. Africa. America and and North in
Europe, Europe, Asia, Asia, North America In and Nantes Nantes ducks ducks Roum and
French classical classical cookery, cookery, Rouen In French enjoy of ducks ducks
types of different types the highest highest esteem. esteem. The The different
enjoy the raised variety of of food incIude include Duclair, Duclair, a a variety
raised in in France France for for food Rouen a Rouen duck; duck; Barbary Barbary
duck duck which, which, when when mated mated with with a Rouen produces the the
mulard is bred bred which is Rouen duck, duck, produces mulard duck duck which foie
gras. specially gras. production of for the specially for the production offoie The
(which in Barbary duck in French French IS is also also called called Canard Canard
The Barhary duck (which d'Inde) raised mainly mainly in in the the southern
southern and and south-eastern south-eastern is raised d'Inde) is regions is
somesomeregions of of France. Its ftesh flesh is is rather rather mediocre mediocre
and and is France. Its times young birds birds are are fairly fairly times too too
musky musky to to be be eaten. eaten. The The young good good to have a strong
odour odour to eat, eat, the old are are tough and have a strong the old tough and
which, have acquired acquired their their which, it it is is said, said, they they
develop develop after after they they have red red wattles. wattles. The fine,
delicately delicately The Nantes Nantes duck duck is is a a magnificent magnificent
bird bird with with fine, ftavoured flavoured ftesh. smaller in in size Rouen duck.
duck. the Rouen flesh. It It is is smaller size than than the When hardly ever
fully developed, that is is at 4 months, months, it it hardly ever at 4 When fully
developed, that 321 32r

are rarely killed without without bleeding are killed Ducks which which are Ducks
bleeding are Killd in marketed in the U.S.A. Killed in this this manner, they
should development of of the development day to to avoid avoid the same day cooked
the the same be be cooked dangerous toxins. food are are Aylesbury duck, Other
breeds of ducks raised for food Other and Roum duck duck and to the Rouen has a a
certain similarity to a bird which which has a greatly appreciate; black Cayuga,
the black appreciate; the English greatly the English which the which a very very
Great American duck, duck, and and is is a called the Great which is which is also
called a small small bird Peking duck, duck, a large bird flesh; Peking bird with
delicate ftesh; with delicate large yellow feet feet and and bill, bill, which and
bright yellow with with yellow plumage and in quality. is excellent excellent in is
ke. at about about 2-t 2tr kg. are sold sold at ducks are In the the U.S.A. U.S.A.
domestic ducks In (4 lb.). (5+ lb.), l* kg. kg. (4 lb.). Wild Wild ducks ducks are
are lb.), ducklings ducklings at at about about li (5-t hunting season. The most
most during the season. The the hunting large numbers during shot in in large is
the the Canvasback. prized is the by the ducks can be determined determined by The
age and tenderness of ducks pinions and should be and under-bill their pinions
these should ftexibility flexibility of their - these back easily. easily. to be
bent back soft enough enough to be bent generally thought that the the duck, duck,
thought that It is is generally Duck Duck breeding. breeding. It places raised in
in places be raised only be can only an aquatic animal, can being being an aquatic
animal, opinion is is banks. This This opinion river banks. or on on river near
water situated situated near water or poultry-breeders have have proved. as many
many poultry-breeders erroneous, erroneous, as mainly around around is raised
raised mainly duckling is Rouen duckling The The famous famous Rouen The you will
river or or even even a a spring. spring. The find a a river will not find Yvetot,
Yvetot, where you ducks pdtis are from the the ftesh flesh of of ducks made from
celebrated duck pâtés are made celebrated duck running water. water. long way from
raisd a from running raised a long parts of France south-western France of south-
western In and other other parts In Languedoc Languedoc and gras, of foie the
manufacture for the manufacture of where ducks are are bred bred for big ducks
where big foie gras, geese. This preserved This preserved like that of geese. their
ftesh fat, like that of flesh is preserved in fat, gastonomes even more than than
the the confit confit even more duck by gastonomes duck is is esteemed esteemed by
(presewed goose). are preserved in in brine. brine. goose). Mulard Mulard ducks
ducks are d'oie d'oie (preserved pdtis are from the the are made made from The
terrines and and pâtés famous truffied trufred terrines The famous livers se ducks.
livers of of the these ducks. described as as caneton caneton always described is
always In duck is In French French cookery, cookery, duck (duckling). (duckling).
'Clean and and D',q,truFEnA -- 'Clean DuckJing cANEToN D'ALBUFÉRA Duckliry
d'Albuféra. d'Albuf6ra. CANETON pieces of of uncooked uncooked young ducklings. 12
pieces truss Cut 12 2 very very young ducklings. Cut truss 2 (6 oz., g. (6 Melt 175
175 g. oz., slices. Melt Bayonne heart-shaped slices. Bayonne ham ham into into
heart-shaped put in the ham, ham, then then in first first the i* cup) a casserole,
casserole, put butter in in a cnp) best best butter garni (q.v.), (q.v.), an onion
an onion the bouquet garni a bouquet and add add a the 2 2 ducklings, ducklings,
and glass of of Madeira. Madeira. studded wine glass 2 cloves, cloves, and and -t
studded with with 2 I wine paper, bring 'Cover with piece of bring to to the the
boil, boil, 'Coyer of buttered buttered paper, with a a piece glowing (q.v.) (a (a
brick and paillasse (q.v.) oven with with glowing put on brick oyen a paillasse and
put on a charcoal), ove and casserole, below the the casserole, hot coals above and
below with hot coals ab charcoal), with are without the ducklings ducklings are too
lively. lively, so so that that the heat being being too without the the heat turn
the the cooked After 20 20 minutes minutes turn fried. After being fried. cooked
without without being garni. bouquet garni. ion and ducklings and the the bouquet
remove the the on onion ducklings and and remove ducklings, Leave drain the the
ducklings, minutes, then then drain Leave for for another 20 minutes, another 20
The remove serving dish. dish. The arrange on on aa serving string and and arrange
remove trussing trussing string of birds the slices slices of with the Garnish with
a lovely lovely colour. colour. Garnish should be be a birds should juices, add pan
juices, ham. add 2 2 tabletablefat from from the the pan surplus fat ham. Skim Skim
off off surplus (see SAUCE) (3 tablespoons) and spoons sauce (see SAUCE) and
Financiire sauce spoons (3 tablespoons) Financière 100 (4 oz.) peeled mushrooms.
this sauce sauce g. (4 mushrooms. Pour Pour this small peeled 100 g. oz.) very very
small (From L'art over ou la cuisine cuisine francaise L'art de de la ducklings.'
(From over the the ducklings.' francaise au XIX XIX siècle.) siicle.) Duckling
Braise A L'ALSACIENNE t'lrslcnNNe -- Braise I'alsacienne. CANETON cANEToN À
Duckling à i l'alsacienne. a dish, and and surround surround it on on a a serving
serving dish, arrange it a Nantes Nantes duckling, duckling arrange with with
separately with has been been braised braised separately which has with sauerkraut
sauerkraut which streaky this of the the dish dish with with this the border border
of Garnish the streaky bacon. bacon. Garnish
DUCK DUCK
pieces, and bacon cut rectangular pieces, and 6 6 smoked into rectangular smoked
Strasbourg cut into Strasbourg bacon poached in sausages poached in water. water.
sausages liquor, spoon Strain the the braising braising liquor, spoon sorne some
over duckling over the the duckling Strain and serve serve the rest separately. the
rest seoaratelv. and (hbt). BALLOTTINE Ballottfure of of duckling duckling (hot).
n,lrrorrrNE DE DE CANETON cANEroN -BaUottine Bone a Nantes duckling a Nantes
duckling and and carefully carefully remove remove aU all the the flesh, flesh,
Bone leaving only only the Remove aU skin. Remove the skin. all sinews sinews from
from flesh. flesh. Dice Dice leaving the fillets fillets and and chop chop the rest
of the rest of the the meat finely with meat finely with an anequal equal the
weight of of fresh fresh fat fat bacon, bacon, half half of its weight lean veal,
veal, of its weight of of !ean weight (3 oz.) g. (3 (q.v.). panada (q.v.). and75
oz.) of of panada and 75 g. Pound the the whole whole mixture mixture in in a
yolks. a mortar, mortar, adding adding 4 4 egg egg yolks. Pound pepper, and Season
with with salt, salt, pepper, and spices. spices. Rub Rub this this forcemeat
forcemeat Season (5 oz.) g. (5 a sieve. sieve. Add Add 150 gras (duck's (duck's 150
g. oz.) uncookedfoie uncooked/oie gras through a liver) cut cut in in large large
dice dice and and briskly briskly tossed g. tossed in in butter, butter, 150 150 g.
liver) (5 oz.) oz.) diced diced truffles truffies and and the the diced diced duck
duck breast breast fillets. fillets. Add Add (5 (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy brandy and and blend blend weil. well. 2 Spread
the the duck's duck's skin skin on on the piece of the table, table, on on a a
piece of muslin muslin Spread which has has been been soaked soaked in in cold cold
water water and and wrung wrung out. out. Stuff Stuff which the skin skin with the
the forcemeat forcemeat and and roll roll into into a a ballottine. ballottine.
Secure Secure with string string at at both ends ends and and in in the the middle.
middle. with Poach the the ballottine in prepared by in stock stock prepared by
using using a veal Poach a veal knuckle and and the the bones bones and and
trimmings trimmings of of the the duckling. duckling. knuckle for about about 1 lf
Cook for hours, unwrap, glaze in unwrap, and and glaze in the the oyen. Cook t
hours, oven. Garnish and and spoon spoon over over a little of a !ittle Garnish of
the the braising braising liquor liquor which has has been been boiled boiled down
down and and strained. strained. Serve which Serve the the rest rest separately.
separately. of duckling duckling may be Hot ballottine of most of be served served
with with most of the the garnishes (q.v.) (q.v.) indicated indicated for for
braised poultry. braised or garnishes or broiled broild poultry. The following are
are the the most most suitable: suitable: châtelaine, The chdtelaine, chipolata,
chipolata, godard, braised braised chestnuts, forestière, godard, chestnuts,
braised braised lettuce, lettuce, or or forestiire, other vegetables braised or
cooked cooked in butter. butter. (cold). BALLOTTINE Ballottine of of duckJing
ducklfug (cold). BaUottine BALLoTTTNE DE DE CANETON cANEToN -Make in in the the
same same way Make way as as hot hot baIJottine, greater ballottine, but but a a
greater duck's liver liver and quantity of duck's and truffles truffies are are
added to the the forceforceadded to meat. After cooking, cooking, unwrap After
unwrap the the ballottine, ballottine, then then wrap wrap once once again in the
same cloth very tightly, and and put to to cool cool under a a press. glaze with To
serve, serve, unwrap, press. To unwr.ap, glaze with liquid liquid aspic aspic
jelly, arrange on on a a dish, and arrange and surround with chopped chopped jelly.
Duckling DuckJing à i la bordelaise. bordelaise. CANETON ceNrroN À A LA rn
BORDELAISE nononrnrsn -- Stuff Stuff a duckling duckling with fine pork forcemeat
mixed with the chopped chopped duck's garlic, 1 duck's liver, Iiver, a a little
little shallot, shallot, garlic, I tablespoon chopped chopped parsley, blanched and
and chopped chopped olives; olives; seasoned seasoned with with salt, pepper pepper
and and spices; and bound with 1 I egg. the duckling and Truss the and fry fry in
in butter in in a a fireproof dish dish until it is golden on ail g. (18 (18 oz.)
white, firm all sides. sides. Add 500 g. firm cèpes which have been been trimmed,
cipes which have trimmed, washed, washed, lightly lightly tossed tossed in in and
seasoned seasoned with salt and pepper. Cook in a oil and and pepper. a hot hot
oyen. oven. When the duckling is done, remove remove trussing string and put and
put back into the dish. Pour over 4 or 5 tablespoons tablespoons thickened brown
veal gravy, sprinkle with chopped parsley and and serve serve the dish dish in
which it was cooked. in the Braised duckling duckJing with various garnishes.
CANETON Braised cANEToN BRAISÉ sRArs6 -large Nantes duckling and put it into a
braising pan Truss a large a foundation foundation of offresh bacon rinds, 1 on a
fresh bacon I carrot carrot and and 1 I mediumon ion sliced and tossed in butter.
Add a bouquet garni sized onion (q.v.) of of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Season.
Cook with the (q.v.) 15 minutes. When the duckling is is browned lid on for about
15 aIl sides, moisten with l| I-!- dl. dl. (f (t pint, 3 ~ cup) white wine. on all
3-!- dl. dl. (generous (generous I -!- pint, pint, 1| I-!- cups) Boil down, and and
add add 3+ Boil thickened brown brown veal veal or or chicken chicken stock. stock.
Bring Bring to slightly thickened the boil boil on on the the stove. stove, then
then cook cook in in a a hot hot oven oyen for about 1 the I hour the pan covered.
covered. with the Drain the the duckling, remove rem ove trussing string, arrange
on a Drain a the braising braising serving dish, and garnish. Boil down and strain
the serving liquor, spoon a little little of of it it over the duck and serve serve
the rest rest liquor, separately. separately. Nantes braised braised duckling
duckling may may be be served served with with all ail the the Nantes

Braised BraisedNantes Nantesduckling duckling

garnishes (q.v.) (q.v.) recommended garnishes recommended for for braised

braisedand and broiled broiled poultry. The garnishes most poultry. The garnishes
most suitable suitable for for this this dish dish are: are: fermière, I angue do c
ienne, macédoine, ma ci do ine, toulousaine. t ou I ous ain e. fe r m ii r e,
languedocienne, Braised Braisod duckling duckling can can also also be be
accompanied accompanied by by carrots, carrots, turnips, ail glazed turnips,
celeriac, celeriac, cucumbers, glazed onions, peas, cucumbers, sm onions, peas,
small tomatoes, tomatoes, etc., etc., sautéed saut6ed in in butter butter or or
braised. braised. Casserole garnishes. CANETON Casserole of of duckling duckliry
with with various various garnishes. cANEToN EN EN CASSEROLE(Ser,CHICKEN.) like
Chicken cAssERoLE - Prepare Prepare like C hi c k encasserole. c as s e r o I e.
(See CH IC KEN. ) Serve femme, paysanne paysanne or with bonne bonnefemme, garnish
Serve with or sorne some other other garnish which which should should be be cooked
cooked with with the the bird bird in in aa casserole. casserole. Duckling Duckling
à la chipolata. i la chipolata. CANETON cANEroN À A LA LA CHIPOLATA cHrpoLATA - -
Braise Braise the the duckling. duckling. When When it it is is nearly nearly done,
done, drain drain and and remove remove trussing trussing string. string. Put Put
it it back garnish back in in the the casserole casserole with with aa garnish of
of 10 l0 braised glazd onions, braised chestnuts, chestnuts, 10 l0 small
smallglazed onions, 10 l0 lean lean rashers rashers of of blanched blanched and
lightly fried fried bacon, and lightly bacon, and and 18 18 carrots carrots cut cut
down down to glazed. Boil to the the size size of of olives olives and and glazed.
Boil down down the the braising liquor, strain, pour over braising liquor, strain,
pour over the the duckling, duckling, and and finish finish cooking. cooking. Add
Add JO l0 small small chipolata chipolata sausages sausages cooked cooked in in
butter. butter. Serve garnish arranged Serve the the duckling duckling surrounded
surrounded with the garnish arranged with the in groups. Pour separate groups. Pour
over over the the sauce. in separate sauce. Cold CoH duckling. dnckling. CANETON
cANEroN FROID FRorD -- Duckling prepared Duckling can can be be prepared in in any
(see CHICKEN). any manner manner suitable suitable for for cold cold chicken
chicken (see CHICKEN). DuckJing Duckliry with with olives. olives. CANETON cANEroN
AUX olrvEs -- Braise AUx OLIVES Braise the the duckling, duckling, cooking cooking
it quarters done. it until until three three quarters done. Strain the Strain the
braising liquor, put the liquor, put g. the duckling duckling back back in in it it
and and add 250 g. add 250 (9 (9 oz., l| cups) oz' I-!cups) stoned, stoned,
blanched blanched olives. olives. Finish Finish cooking cooking on on a a slow slow
heat. heat. Duckling Duckling can can also also be cooked with be cooked with
stuffed stuffed olives. olives. DuckJing Ducklfury à t l'orange l'orange or or à la
bigarade I la bigarade 1. I. CANETONÀ clNsroN A L'ORANGE, L'oRANGE, À l, LA rA
BIGARADE sIclnADE -- Braise Braise a Nantes duckling. a Nantes duckling. Drain,
Drain, remove remove trussing trussing string string and and arrange arrange on on
a a serving serving dish. dish. Pour Pour over over bigarade prepared in bigarade
sauce sauce prepared in the the following following manner. manner. Strain Strain
the the braising hraising liquor liquor into into a a small small saucepan saucepan
in in which which 2 lumps 2 lumps of of sugar, sugar, moistened (3 tablespoons)
with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 moistened with tablespoons) viilegar,
previously been vinegar, have have previously been cooked cooked to to caramel
caramel degree. degree. Boil down. Add Add the the juice of of 1 I orange orange
and and -!-Iemon. Boil down down I lemon. Boil again again and and strain. strain.
Add Add the the blanched blanched and and drained drainod rind I rind of of 1
orange orange and and -!-Iemon (q.v.). shredded into into a fine julienne (q.v.). a
fine I lemon shredded Duckling à ir l'orange l'orange or la bigarade i la bigarade
IL IL CANETON or à caNsroN À A L'ORANGE, r.'oRANcE, À A LA rA BIGARADE src.dnA.on
-- Fry Fry the the duckling duckling in in butter, butter, keeping keeping it
little it a a little underdone. underdone. Drain, Drain, remove remove trussing
trussing string, string, and and arrange arrange on on a a serving dish. Dilute (6
tablespoons, Dilute the the pan juices with I dl. with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant
scant -!+ cup) t cups) (+ pint, pint, 1 cup) white white wine. wine. Add Add 3 3
dl. dl. (-!l| cups) clear clear veal veal stock stock or Demi-glace sauce (see SA
UCE). Add sugar and vinegar or Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Add sugar and vinegar
cooked cooked to to caramel caramel degree, degree, as as described described
above, above, and and allow allow to for a few moments. to boil boil for a few
moments. Add Add thejuice of 1 I orange, orange, t lemon the juice of I lemon and
ove. and finish finish off off as as described described ab above. Gamish peeled
slices Garnish with slices of with peeled of orange. orange. Sauce Sauce for for
Duckling Duckling à I'orange should d l'orange should be be made made of of the
rind the rind of bitter oranges. of bitter oranges.
322 322
DUCK DUCK
pArfs DE pATE. Duck pâtés. pfltes. PÂTÉS or CANETON cANEroN-- See See PÂ Duck TÉ.
pETrrsPOIS pors -* Brown Duckliry witb peasI. with peas f. CANETON caNrroN AUX Aux
PETITS Brown Duckling together in in butter butter 12 l2small small onions g.(7
(7oz.) onions and 200 g. and200 oz.)blanched, blanched, together diced bacon.
bacon. Remove Remove these these from panand from the the pan and in in the thesame
same diced butter sear sear a Nantes duckling. a trussed trussed Nantes duckling.
Brown Brown it it weIl wellon onail all butter sides. and and drain. drain. sides,
pan juices with Dilute the the panjuices (6 tablespoons, with 1 I dl. dl. (6
tablespoons, scant scant1-l cup) cup) Dilute white stock. (scant I pint, stock. Add
Add 2+dl. dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) veal veal white
glazed more quickly. Cook more quickly. Cookon onaabrisk briskfire. fire.Have
Haveready glazed ready24 24 smallonions, onions, half halfcooked cookedin inbutter.
butter. small When the theduckling ducklingis ishalf halfcooked cookeddrain
drainititand When andstrain strain the the liquor. Put Put the panand the duckling
duckling back back into intothe liquor. thepan andadd addthe the turnips, onions
onions and andsauce. sauce.Finish Finishcooking cookingin inaaslow turnips,
slowoyen. oven. garnishthe To serve, serve, garnish pourthe thebird birdand andpour
To thesauce sauceover overit. it. pipinghot. Serve piping hot. Serve

and chicken chicken stock put the stock and and put the duckling duckling into into
this this liquor. liquor. and (If, pints, Add 1 I litre litre (Ii pints, generous
generous quart) quart) fresh gardur peas, fresh garden peas, the the Add pieces of
onions, pieces garni (q.v.). of bacon, bacon,and (q.v.). Season and a a bouquet
bouquet garni Season onions, and add add 1 I teaspoon teaspoon sugar. gently with
sugar. Simmer Simmer gently with the the lid lid on. on. and When cooked, cooked,
drain drain the the duckling, duckling, arrange arrange on on aa serving serving
When dish, and and surround surround with peas. Boil juices with the the peas. pan
juices Boil down down the the pan dish, pour over and pour over the the bird. bird.
and A lettuce lettuce shredded shredded into (q.v.), or into a a chiffonnade
chiffonnade (q.v.), or left left whole whole A and tied tied with with string,
string, can can be peas. If be added added to to the the peas. If left left whole,
whole, and it should should be quarters when be cut cut into into quarters when
serving, serving, and and arranged arranged it peas. on the the peas. on

21

Duckling with peas (Scarnari) (S c arnati) Duckling

the fireproof casserole, a fireproof keeping it it a the duckling duckling in in a

casserole, keeping a little Add generous quart) fresh garden peas, fresh garden Add
l'litre f litre (lf (li pints, pints, generOl!S (see PEAS). Leave to infuse for a
cooked d à la la frangaise française (see few a few moments without without
allowing to boil. Roast duckling. cANEroN CANETON n0n RÔTI and - Truss the duckling
and roast it it in in the the oven oyen or or on on a a spit. spit. For For cooking
times times see see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking
cooking timesfor roasts. roasts. Duckling Duckling with sauerkraut. CANEToN CANETON
A À r,c LA cHoucRouTB CHOUCROUTE This This is prepared in the same way as Duckling
Duckling d à l'alsacienne. l'alsacienne. Surround Surround with with sauer.kraut
sauerkraut braisd braised in in the the usual usual manner. Garnish with with
pieces pieces of streaky streaky bacon bacon (cooked (cooked with with the
sauerkraut) sauerkraut) and and saveloys, saveloys, Strasbourg or or Frankfurt
Frankfurt sausages. sausages. Pour Pour the the liquor liquor in which the duckling
was braised over the
bird. bird. Ducklirry Duckling with turnips turnips @raised). (braised). cANEroN
CANETON AUx AUX NAvErs NAVETS Brown Brown a trussed trussed Nantes Nantes duckling
duckling in butter. butter. When When it is is brown brown on on all aU sides,
sides, take take it it out out of of the the pan and drain. Remove Remove the the
butter butter from from the the pan pan and make make a a sauce of lj 11 dl. (| (i
pint, cup) dry dry white white wine wine and and 4 dl. dl. (i pint, pint, scint
scant 2'cups) 2 cups) 3 cup) espagnole espagnole sauce sauce (sen, (see SAUCE) or
or veal veal stock. stock. Add a a bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Place Place the
the duckling duckling in in the the sauce and and simmer simmer garni (q.v.).
gently. gently. Put the the butter butter in in another another pan pan and and add
add to to it 3 3 or or 4 4 small small Put turnips, cut cut down down to to a a
uniform uniform size. size. Season Season and and sprinkle sprinkle turnips, will
enable enable thern them to to be be with I 1 tablespoon tablespoon sugar, sugar,
which which will with
underdone.

pETrrs POIS pors - Cook Duckling II. CANETON c,c,NrroN AUX AUx PETITS Duckling with
peas peas n. -

ROUEN DUCK. DUCK. CANARD cANARD ROUENNAIS RouENNArs-- See ROUEN noteunder Seenote
under DUCK. DUCK. Ballottine of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. BALLOTTINE
BaUottine BALLoTTTNE DE DECANETON cANEToN DE DE RoUEN -- Prepare Prepare like like
Ballottine ROUEN Ballottine of ofduckling. duckling. Rouen duckling ducklirg àI la
labigarade. Rouen bigarade. CANETON cANEroNROUENNAIS noueNNln À ALA r-^A BIcARADE
-- Prepare Prepare in ineither either of givanfor of the the ways BIGARADE
waysgiven for Duckling Duckling I'orange. d l'orange. à Rouen duckling duckling is
is rarely rarely braised, braised, but Rouen but itit can canin in fact fact be be
cooked in in this this manner mannerand and is cooked isexcellent. excellent. Rouen
duckling duckling au auchambertin. chambertin. CANETON Rouen cexeroN ROUENNAIS
RouENNArsAU AU cHAMBERTTN -- Braise Braise the CHAMBERTIN theduckling duckling in
in liquor liquor based basedon onred red wine. When When it it is is nearly nearly
cooked, wine. to another cooked, put put it pan.Add it in into another pan. Add g.
(4 (4 oz.) 125 g. pork or oz.) pork bacon cut or bacon 125 cut in in large
largedice, dice, blanched blanched and and lightly fried, fried, and and 24 24
mushroom lightly peeled and mushroom caps, caps, peeled and tossed tossed in in
butter. butter. Boil down down the the braising Boil braising Iiquor liquor in pan,
strain, in the the other other pan, strain, pour over over the the duckling pour
duckling and and finish finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen ovenwith with the
lid lid on. on. the Rouen Rouen duckling ducklirry in in Champagne. Champagne.
CANETON cANEToN ROUENNAIS RouENNArs AU AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMeAGNE -- Fry Fry the the
duckling duckling in in butter. butter. When When nearly nearly put it cooked, put
cooked, it into into an an earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Dilute pan Dilute
the the pan juices with (| pint, pint, li juices with 3 3 dl. dl. (1 l| cups) cups)
dry dry Champagne, Champagne, add add aa few tablespoons few tablespoons thickened
thickened brown pour over brown veal veal stock, stock, and and pour over the the
duckling. duckling. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen, oven. with
with the the lid lid on. on. Chaud-froid Chaud-froil of of Rouen Rouen duckling.
duckling. CHAUD-FROID cHAUD-FRorD DE DE CANETON cANEToN DE ROUEN DE RoUEN Cook the
the duckling duckling in in the the oyen, oven, keeping keeping it it a a little
little - Cook underdone. underdone. Remove Remove the the legs legs and and cut cut
the the breast breast fiUets fillets into into strips. strips. Using Using the the
carcase carcase and and the the trimmings, trimmings, roughly roughly chopped,
prepare a chopped, prepare (se SAUCE, a brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce
sauce (see SAUCE, Compound jelly, ftavoured Compound sauces) sauces) and and mix
mix it it with with aspic aspic jelly, flavoured with with Madeira Madeira or or
other liqueur wine. other liqueur wine. Coat duckling fillets pieces of Coat the
the pieces ofduckling fillets with with this this half-set half-set sauce. sauce.
Put on grid to a grid on a to cool. cool. Decorate Decorate with pieces of with
pieces of truffies, truffies, white white of hard-boiled egg, jelly. egg, and
pickled tongue. and pickled tongue. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. Arrange Arrange in
in a pyramid shapes. a dish dish in in pyramid shapes. Garnish Garnish with with
jelly and chopped chopped jelly and surround surround the border of the border of
the the dish dish with with jelly croûtons. cro0tons. Rouen Rouen duckling duckling
en en chemise chemise I. I. CANTON caxroll ROUENNAIS RouENNArs EN EN CHEMISE
cHEMISE Remove the the breast-bone breast-bone of of a a Rouen Rouen duckling,
duckling, - Remove stuff it it as as for for Duckling à d la la rouennaise,
rouennaise, and and truss truss it. it. Roast Roast as quickly as as possible, for
for 8 8 to to 12 12 minutes. get cold. minutes. Leave Leave to get cold. Enclose
the bird pork bladder, previously soaked bird in in a a large pork soaked in in
cold cold water, placing the the bird bird with with the the rump rump towards
towards the the opening of the the bladder. Tie Tie the the opening with with
string. string. Poach Poach in a clear braising stock stock for 45 45 minutes. To
serve, the bladder bladder and serve, take the duckling duckling out of ofthe
proceed and proceed as described describod in the recipe recipe for for Duckling
Duckling à d la la rouennaise. rouennaise. Rouen duckling II. CANETON Roum duckling
en m chemise II. cfi{sroN ROUENNAIS RouENNArs EN EN CHEMISE Rernove the the breast-
bone, breast-bone, stuff the duck, cHErvrrsE stuffthe duck, and and truss. truss. -
Remove which has been soaked Wrap in a a cloth which has been soaked in in water
water and and wrung wrung Poach in in strong out. Tie like a a galantine (q.v.).
Poach strong veal veal broth broth for for 50 minutes. 40 to 50 Drain, unwrap, and
and serve serve surrounded surrounded with peeled orange with peeled orange
quarters. Serve sauce (see quarters. (see SAUCE) Sewe rouennaise sauce SAUCE)
separately, separately. Rouen duckling with cherries. CANETON ROUENNAIS Rouen
duckling with cherries. cANEToN RouENNArs AUX Aux CERISES - Truss the the duckling
and and fry fry it in a cERIsEs pan with it in a pan with butter. butter. cooked,
put put it it into into an Wben it is nearly cooked, When an earthenware
earthenware dish dish 250 g. Q (9 oz.) oz.) morello cherries, cherries, stoned.
stoned. Dilute the pan pan with 250 Dilute the or 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons brown
brown veal veal stock juices with with Madeira, Madeira, add add I 1 or juices
stock and pour pour over over the the duckling. duckling. and
323 323
DUCK DUCK

How to 10 carve carve roast roast duck: duck; l. 1. First Firsl cut cul offthe off
the legs 2. Place the lhe bird bird on on its its back back and and cut eut
vertically along lhe length length of the lhe along the
breastbone
3. Cut Cul offthe off lhe breast breasl meat meat in long long Ihin thin slices 4.
Repeat Repeal the the operation operation on the other olher side 5. Finally cut
cul offthe offlhe two wings

(Larousse)

5
324
DUCK DUCK
Simmer in the the oven oyen for for a few few minutes. Serve in the same same
Simmer dish. dish. Rouen duckling duckling (cold). (cold). cANEroN CANETON
RoUENNAIS ROUENNAIS FRoID FROID - Rouen Rouen be served cold garnished with
duckling, roast or fried, may be
poached in the oven oyen it in a bain-marie. Rouen duckliry duckJing pit6. pâté.
rArn PÂTÉ DE DE cANEroN CANETON oB DE xousN ROUEN - See Rouen PÂTÉ. PATE. duckJing
in port. cANEroN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUENNAIS AU AU PoRro PORTO Rouen duckliry Truss
a Rouen Rouen duckling duckling and cook in in butter, butter, keeping keeping it
and cook Truss a dish. Dilute on a a dish. slightly underdone. Drain and and
arrange on 2~ dl. (scant I ~ pint, generous cup) port, with2l the pan juices with
2~ dl. (scant ] ~ pint, generous cup) thickened brown and add 2| a few veal gravy.
gravy. Bring to the boil, simmer for a few moments, veal a few add some sorne
butter and few tablespoons of this and strain. Pour a add separately. rest
separately. sauce over the duck duck and and serve the rest sauce same way way with
in the the same can be be prepared in Rouen duckling can instead of port. Madeira,
Frontignan, or sherry instead Madeira, PRESSE A LA PRESSEnounNNrns À Pressed Rouen
Rouen duckling. CANETON cANEroN ROUENNAIS Pressed Remove the legs, Cook the
duckling for 18 to to 20 minutes. Remove for 18 which will stilJ a few few shallow
incisions on the still be raw. Make a pepper, and and a a little legs, season with
salt, salt, pepper, season with underside of the legs, pounded c1ove. Brush with
butter and grill briskly. clove. Brush a dish dish these on a Carve the breast into
thin slivers. Arrange these (6 tablespoons, I dl. tablespoons, scant standing on
hot plate in dl. (6 in which which 1 on a a hotplate down. Season ~ boiled down.
good red has been been well well boiled red wine wine has cup) good I cup) pepper.
with freshly ground pepper. good red red wine, wine, and ahd put Cut up the
carcase, sprinkle with good (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) it press. Add tablespoons
(3 Add 2 2 tablespoons a duck duck press. it under under a juice obtained, pour
over the sliced brandy over the and pour obtained, and the juice brandy to to the
pieces of butter the slices. on the duckling. butter on small pieces a few few
small Scatter a duckling. Scatter sauce to to boil. Heat the sauce allowing the
without allowing hotplate without Heat on on the the hotplate and serve. serve. Put
the grilled the dish, dish, and grilled legs at each ofthe each end end of rl
ROUENNAlSE RoUENNAISE -Duckling A LA crxerox À Duckling à i la la rouennaise.
CANETON g. (4 (4 oz., Fry I cup) cup) Fry 1 in 125 125 g. oz., 1 chopped onion
onion in I tablespoon chopped chopped Add the the it to to colour. colour. Add fat,
without allowing allowing it chopped bacon bacon fat, (or duckling's livers (or I
or or 2 2 chicken chicken livers liver, together together with with 1 duckling's
liver, ducks' slices. Season Season with with thin slices. ducks' livers, livers.
if available), available). cut cut into thin salt pepper, sprinkle and chopped
chopped parsley, with spices spices and sprinkle with salt and and pepper, pound in
a and in a quickly as possible. Leave Leave until until cold, cold, pound as
possible. and fry fry as as quickly mortar, with the duckling duckling with a
sieve. sieve. Stuff Stuff the rub tbrough through a mortar, and and rub for this
hot oyen oven for very hot in a a very it. Cook Cook in and truss truss il.
forcemeat, and this forcemeat, Serve 20 of the the bird. bird. Serve on the the
size size of depending on 20 to to 30 30 minutes, depending (see SAUCE). with sauce
(see SAUCE). with Rouennaise sauce legs, make make To ove the remove the legs,
rouennaise, rem la rouennaise, Duckling à d la To serve serve Ducklin~ grill. Cut
the a Cut the season and and grill. in them, them, season few shallow shallow
incisions in a few of a a breast into ers of on the the bord borders them on
slivers and and arrange arrange them into thin thin slivers buttered stuffing dish
with with the the stuffing middle of of the the dish Fill the the middle buttered
dish. dish. FiJI grilled legs contained legs at at each each end. end. the grilled
and put the the carcase carcase and in the contained in press, Chop it under under
a a duck duck press, into big pieces, put it the carcase carcase into Chop the
sprinkling a dash dash of of brandy and and a tablespoons brandy 2 or or 3 3
tablespoons sprinkling it it with with 2 juice thus lemon some rouennaise
rouennaise obtained to to sorne thus obtained lemon juice. Add Add the the juice
sauce, Serve sliced duckling. duckling. Serve pour sorne over the the sliced some
over sauce, blend, blend, and and pour the separately. rest of the sauce sauce
separately. the rest of the i Sabnis sN SALMIS sA,rltts À rouennaise. CANETON
clr.IEToN EN i la la rouennaise. of duckling duckli,ng à Satmb of the LA and truss
truss the breast-bone and the breast-bone LA ROUENNAISE RouENNAIsE -- Remove Remove
the duckling. it. hot oyen to stiffen stiffen and and sear sear il. duckling. Put
it into into a a very very hot oven to Put it just warrn, Leave then wipe on a a
c1oth. cloth. Leave until until just warrn, then wipe on Remove on the the
incisions on legs, make make a a few few shallow shallow incisions Remove the the
legs, undersides, grill them. the breast breast into into and grill them. Carve
Carve the undersides, season season and thin put them rows on a buttered buttered
dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle thin slivers slivers and and put them in in rows on a
with season with finely chopped chopped shallot, shallot, and and season with with
1 I tablespoon tablespoon finely crushed ground pepper pepper and spices. freshly
ground and spices. crushed sea-salt, sea-salt, freshly Chop glass red red wine,
wine, and and sprinkle with with ~ Chop up up the the carcase, carcase, sprinkle I
glass juice obtained put press. Pour the put it over the Pour the the juice
obtained over a duck duck press. it under under a sliced duckling. sliced duckling.
Heat put under stove and and put under moment on on the the stove Heat the the dish
dish for for a a moment the grilled legs legs one one at at each each the grilled
grill to glaze the the meal. meat. Place Place the the grill togla7~ the dish, end
once. and serve serve at at once. end of ofthe dish, and Different preparing of
preparing have different different ways ways of Different restaurants restaurants
have Salmis it is is no no more more rouennaise. Quite often it la rouennaise.
Salmis o(duckling of duckling à d la Quite often than rouennaise. Duckling à d la
la rouennaise. than Duckling In originated, this dish dish originated, whence this
In sorne some restaurants restaurants in in Rouen, Rouen, whence

should be be cooked cooked longer than required required for watercress. It should
watercress. serving it it hot. hot. GALANTINE DE OE cANEroN CANETON DE Galantine of
Rouen duckling. cALANTINE ROUEN - Prepare Prepare like like Galantfue Galantine of
chicken (see (see GALANGALANRoUEN TINE) adding adding to to the the forcemeat
forcemeat a a quantity quantity of d à gratin gratin TINE) FORCEMEAT). forcemeat
cemeat (see FORCEMEAT). for duckling en daube. cANEToN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUëNNAIS
EN Jellied Rouen ducklirg DAUBE A À rl LA crr6s GELÉE - Prepare llke like Daube of
ofpheasant pheasant in jelly DAUBE PHEASANT). (see PHEASANT).

lellied Jellied strips d l'orange I'orange strips of Rouen duckling duckling à

Jellied strips of AIcuILLErrEs i l'orange. I'orange. AIGUILLETTES of Rouen duckling

à Prepare the - Prepare duckling in the the recipe recipe for for Chaud-froid
Chaud-froid of as described duckling as described in Rouen duckling. Cut strips,
and breast fiUets fillets into into thin thin strips, Cut the the breast coat (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). coat with with Chaud-froid sauce sauce à d l'andalouse l'andalouse
(see Decorate with truffies and peel cut orange peel cut into into little little
strips, strips, and orange and jelly. Keep glaze with jelly. flesh and gla7~ Keep
in in a a refrigerator. refrigerator. Using Using the the flesh of in the the
recipe recipe for for of the the legs, legs, make a a mousse mousse as as described
described in Poultry (see MOUSSE), a mousse (see MOUSSE), adding adding diced diced
truffies. truffies. Fill Fill a Poultry mousse dome-shaped set. dome-shaped mould
with the the mousse and and put it on on ice ice to set. When weil it out crustless
of crustless well chilled, tum turn it out onto onto a a croûton cro0ton of bread,
spread with with duckling duckling bread, spread with butter, butter, on on a a
dish. dish. Coyer Cover with strips sauce. Spoon Spoon a a strips which have been
been coated in n chaud-froid sauce. little jelly on half-set jelly dish. Cut
oranges on the little half-set the bottom of of the the dish. Cut oranges into port
pulp, half-fill half-fill with with port into basket-shapes, scoop scoop out out
the the pulp, jelly, jelly, decorate peeled orange and arrange decorate with orange
sections sections and arrange with peeled round shape. round the the mousse mousse
shape. Decorate the If half spiking on on a a skewer skewer topped topped by by ha
by spiking the top top by an an orange orange with a big truffie in in it. it. with
a big truffLe Chili Chill in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. Rouen LAMBERTYE
DE ROUEN RoUEN LAMBERTYE cANEToN DE Rouen duckJing duckling Lambertye. Lambertye.
CANETON Proceed as described in the recipe for Chicken Lambertye for Chicken
Lambertye in the recipe Proceed as described (see (see CHICKEN), mousse in in that
that the chicken chicken mousse replacing the CHICKEN), replacing recipe duck
mousse. recipe by by duck mousse. Set (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Set in in
brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce Rouen DE ROUEN RoUEN -I. MOUSSE uo'uss DE
DE CANETON cANEroN DE duckling mousse mousse 1. Ruren duckJing Prepare the (see
CHICKEN), replacing the mousse (see CHICKEN), replacing like Chicken Prepare like
Chickm mousse chicken by duck. duck. chicken by Rouen Er MoussE ET II and and
mousselines. mousselines. MOUSSE mousse il duckling mousse Roum duckling
MOUSSELINES as described described Prepare as RouENNAIS -- Prepare DE CANETON
MoussELINES DE cANEToN ROUENNAIS in (see below), the below), the souffii (see
duckling soufflé recipe for for Rouen Rouen duckling in the the recipe mousse,
poached in in a a in the the oyen oven in mould, poached mousse, in in a a
charlotte charlotte mould, buin-marie (q.v.); and bain-marie (q.v.); in small small
moulds, moulds, and the the mousselines, mousselines, in
DE 'ORA:-IGE DE CANETON .4, L r'On^nSrcr CANETON DE DE ROUEN ROUEN GLACÉES CrlCfnS
À

325 325
DUCK
(cooked from the sliced sliced duckling duckling (cooked from JO l0 to to 12 12
minutes) minutes) is is the coveredwith (see SAUCE), with Red Red wine wine sauce
sauce (see SAUCE), spiced spiced with with covered shallots, flavoured flavoured
with with aa tablespoon tablespoon of of brandy, brandy, and and shallots,
thickened with with raw raw chopped chopped duck duck liver. liver. thickened In
Duclair, Duclair, the the home home of of the the famous famous ducklings,
ducklings, aa different different ln joints, put method is is used. used. Bone Bone
the the ducklings ducklings to to the the wing put wing joints, method the liver
liver inside inside the the bird, bird, trun trim and and truss truss it, it, and
and roast roast on on the the the spit for for 20 20 to to 22 22 minutes, minutes,
depending depending on on size. size. spit Carve the the breasl breast into into
Ihin thin sliees slices and and arrange arrange them them on on a a Carve dish
around around the the carcase, carcase, which which has has been been fliled filled
with with the the dish following purée: pur6e: Fry Fry a large chopped a large
chopped onion onion lightly lightly in in butter, butter, following sprinkle with
port and with port and Burgundy Burgundy wine, wine, boil boil down, down, add add
the the sprinkle duckling's liver pounded in liver pounded in a a mortar mortar and
and the the blood blood from from duckling's the carcase. carcase. Heat Heat weil.
well. the Rouen duckling duckling soufflé. souffi6. CANETON RoUENNAtsE SOUFFLÉ
cANEroN ROUENNAISE sourrrf -Rouen grand-style dish; This is is very very much much
a a grand-style dish; it it is is excellent excellent but but This rather
expensive, expensive, as 2 ducklings ducklings should should be as 2 be used,
larger used, the the larger rather for serving serving and and the the sma smaller
for making making a forcemeat to a forcemeat to stuff stuff for 11er for the other.
other. the Truss the the larger larger duck duck and and raast roast in in the the
oven, oven, keeping keeping it it Truss rather underdone. underdone. Remove Remove
the the breast fillets and and keep keep hot. hot. breast fillets rather Remove the
the breast-bone breast-bone in in such such a a way way as as to to make make the
the Remove hollow. Season carcase hoJ]ow. Season the the duck duck inside pepper,
inside with salt, pepper, with salt, carcase and spices, spices, and and sprinkle
sprinkle with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon brandy. brandy. Stuff Stuff the the
and (5 oz.) carcase with forcemeat of g. (5 with a a forcemeat 150 g. gras, of 150
uncooked/oie gras, oz.) uncookedfoie carcase the ducks' ducks'livers, flesh of
prepared and the the tlesh ofthe second duck, duck, prepared the li vers, and the
second (see FORCEMEAT). as described described in Mousseline forcemeat (sec tn
Mousseline as FORCEMEAT). Spread this this forcemeat forcemeat in piling it in the
the carcase, give the carcase, piling it up to give the Spread up to duck its its
original original shape. shape. Cover Cover with buttered paper and tie tie duck
with buttered paper and with string. string. Lay Lay the pan, sprinkle the stufred
stuffed duck duck in in a a roasting roasting pan, sprinkle with with melted melted
butter butter ilnd and cook cook in in a a slow slow oyen for 20 oven for 20 to 25
with to 25 minutes. minutes. Remove the paper. Arrange the duck on on a a dish
Remove the paper. Arrange the duck dish and surround with baked blind and filled
with a salpicon a salpicon surround with tartlets tartJets baked blind and fliled
with (q.v.) of truffies and mushrooms (q.v.) of truffies and mushrooms blended
blended with with concentratod concentrated (se SAUCE). Madeira sauce (sec SAUCE).
Place Place a slice of a slice of duck duck on each on each Madeira sauce tartlet
sliver of tartlet and and top top with with a a sliver of truffie, truffie, heated
heated in in butter. butter. Serve with R ouennaise sauce Servewith Rouennaise
sauce or or Pirigueux Périgueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). The same
forcemeat The same forcemeat can can be be used used for for making making Rouen
Rouen duck duck mousses artd. mousselines. The prepared mousses and mousselines.
The former fonuer are are prepared in in charlotte charlotte moulds moulds with
with a a hole bole in in the the middle, middle, the the latter latter in in small
small individual individual moulds. moulds. They They are are cooked cooked in in
the the oven oven in in a a bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.). (q.v.). The The same same
composition composition can can also also be be used used for for preparing
preparing Duck Duck soufid soufflé en en timbale. timbale. Put Put the the mixture
mixture into into buttered buttered souff6 soufflé moulds mou Ids and and bake bake
in in the the oven oyen like like an an ordinary ordinary souffi6 soufflé (see (sec
SOUFFLES, SOUFFLÉS, Savoury Savoury soffiis). soufflés). Supr0mes. Suprêmes. of of
Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. supRErvrns SUPR~MES DE DE cANEToN CANETON RoUENNAIS
ROUENNAIS - Remove Remove the the breast breast fillets fillets of of a a Rouen
Rouen duckling. duckling. Cut Cut each each fillet fillet into into 2 2 or or 3 3
pieces pieces lengthways. lengthways. Beat Beat to to flatten ftatten them them
slightly, slightly, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, put
put in in a a buttered buttered dish, dish, and and cook cook with with the the lid
lid on, on, keeping keeping them them rather rather underunderdone. done. Duck Duck
fillets fillets prepared prepared in in this this manner manner are are served
served with with various various garnishes garnishes and and sauces. sauces. They
They can ean be be prepared prepared ià /a la bigarade,with bigarade, with shredded
shredded orange orange and and lemon lemon rind rind and and bigarade bigarade
sauce: sauce; with with morello morello cherries. cherries, stoned stoned and and
cooked cooked in in Madeira Madeira with with concentrated concentrated Madeira-
flavoured Madeira-tlavoured veal veal gravy gravy blended blended with with a a
little liale butter; butter; garnished garnished with with mushrooms mushrooms
saut6ed sautécd in in butter; butter; au au chambertin, chambertin, arrangd
arranged on on cro0tons craÎltons fried fried in in butter, butter, garnished
garnished with with sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms fried fried in in butter
butter and and slices slices of of truffies truffles in in chambertin chambertin
sauce; sauce; au au porto, porto, arranged arranged on on cro0tons croûtons fried
fried in in butter butter with with port port sauce sauce poured poured over over
them; them; d à la la pirigourdine, périgourdine, ananged arranged on on fried
fried cro0tons, croûtons, spread spread with with foie foie gras, gras, garnished
garnished with with slivers slivers of of truffes truffles and and served served
with with Madeira, Madeira, port port or or sherry sherry sauce; sauce; with with
truffies truffles arranged arranged on on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in
butter, butter, garnished garnisbed with with thick thick slices slices of of
truffies truffles saut6ed sautéed in in butter butter and and served served with
with Madeira Madeira sauce sauce
326 326

d l'orange. I'orange. Aiso Also on on croûtons cro0tons fried fried in garnished

with in butter, butter, garnished à with orange rind rind shredded shredded
intojulienne into julienne (q.v.) (q.v.)strips, strips, surrounded orange
surrounded peeledsections with peeJed sections of of orange, orange, and and served
served with with with orange orange sauce. sauce. Terrine of of Rouen Rouen
duckling. duckling. TERRINE rrnnrNr DE DE CANETON cANEToN DE Terrine DE ROUENRouEN
Using duck duck tlesh, flesh, fine fine forcemeat forcemeat and prepare like and
truffles, truffies, prepare Using like (see TERRINE). Terrine of of duckling
duckling (see TERRINE). Terrine Timbale of of Rouen Rouen duckting duckling Voisin.
Voisin. TIMBALE TTMBALE DE DE CANETON cANEroN Timbale RouENNArs VOISIN vorsrN --
This This dish dish was was one one of the specialities of the specialities of
ROUENNAIS of the famous famous Voisin Voisin restaurant restaurant which which no
no longer longer exists. the exists. The The recipe was was as as follows: follows:
recipe Roast a a Rouen Rouen duckling, duckling, keeping keeping it little
underdone. it a a little Roast underdone. quite cold, When it it is is quite cold,
remove remove the the breast breast fillets. fillets. When Chop up up the the
earcase and the carcase and the trimmings trimmings and and use use them them for
for Chop (see SA making a a Salmis Salmis sauce sauce (see SAUCE, Compound brown
making UCE, Compound brown sauces). Strain Strain the the sauce, sauce, remove
remove surplus surplus fat, fat, add sauces). add to to it it an an jelly, boil
quantity of equal quantity of meat meat jelly, down, and boil down, and strain
strain tbrough equal through a a muslin c1oth. cloth. muslin a timbale timbale with
Coat a with this this sauce. sauce. When put in When it it sets, sets, put Coat in
a a layer of of sliced slicod flUets (previously coated fillets of of duckling
duckling (previously coated with layer with the the same sauce sauc€ and and left
left to set), alternating to set). alternating with with slivers slivers of same of
truffles. truffies. jelly over Spoon sorne some half-set half-set jelly over eacb
layer and each layer and continue Spoon continue in in this manner manner until
until the the timbale timbale is filld with with alterna alternating is filled rows
ting rows this of sliced sliced duck duck and and truffles. truffies. of jelly. Put
Finish off off with with a a slightly thicker thicker layer layer of jelly. Finish
Put the the on ice or or in in a a refrigera refrigerator well. timbale on tor and
chill weil. Rouen duckling duckling with witft truffles. trufres. CANETON cANEroN
ROUENNAIS RouENNArs AUX AUx Rouen TRUFFES preparation is This method method of of
preparation is suitable only only for TRUFFES - This or suprêmes suprdmes (breasts)
of Rouen ducklings. fillets or the duckling Cook the duckling in in the the oven,
oven, keeping it a littlc little underCook il a done. Cut the breast breast fillets
fillets into thick slices. Arrange Arrange these done. into thick in a a dish with
thick sliccs slices of truffies which in which have been been tossed in in butter.
bu tter. Keep hot. Chop the carcaso and and the Chop the carcase the parings
parings into into pieces, pieees, moisten with or sherry, and and boil down. Add
Add a with Madeira, Madeira, port port or boil down. a few concentrated Demi-glace
(see tablespoons concentraled (see SAUCE). Allow to a few moments, then strain.
Bring this to boil boil for for a then strain. this sauce sauce to the boil, boil,
add I 1 tablespoon brandy brandy which has has been set alight, alight, and 2
tablespoons sauce and tabJespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter. Pour the the sauce
over the duckling duckling fillets. fiJlets.

WILD WILD DUCKS. DUCKS. cANARDs CANARDS sAUvAcES SAUVAGES - Among Among the the
wild ducks used used in in cookery, cookery, the most most popular, and the the
biggest, biggest, is is the green-head green-head or or mallard, mallard, known
kno"m in France as as Canard sauvage or or Un sauvage. sauvage. This This duck,
duck, which which has has succulent flesh. tlesh, is is found found in in the the
vicinity vicinity of of freshwater freshwater ponds ponds and and lakes lakes from
from October to to March. March. Its lts plumage plumage varies, varies, depending
depending on on sex, sex, age, age, and season. season. The The plumage plumage of
of the the male male is green green and and red red with with touches touches of of
brown brown and grey. The female femaJe is is brown. brown. The The flesh f1esh of
of the the other other species species of of wild wild ducks, ducks, most most of
of which which are are edible, edible, is is less less delicate delicate than than
that that of of the the mallard. mal lard. They They include include the the
pintail, pintai!, the the sheld-duck sheld-duck and the the gadwell; gadwell. Other
Other water water game game of of the the same same family, family, which which is
is defined defined by by the the generic generic term tenu waterfowd waterfowl,
include include the the spoonbill spoonbill or or shovellershoveller·· duck, the
teal, teal, a a small small but but excellent excellent bird. bird. duck, and the
Some Sorne waterfowl, waterfowl. for for example, example, the the pintail pintail
and and teal teal are are allowed allowed as as Lenten Lenten fare, fare, whereas
whereas the the mallard mallard is is considered considered as as meat. meat. Wild
Wild duck duck ià la la bigarade. bigarade. cANARD CANARD sAUVAcE SAUVAGE A À r.A
LA srcARADs BIGARADE Roast Roast or or fry fry the the wild wild duck duck and and
prepare prepareas as Duckling Ducklingd à I'orange. l'orange. Fillets Fillels of of
duck duck ial ta la bigarade bigarade (Plumerey's (Plumerey's recipe). recipe).
FrLErs FILETS DE DE cANARD CANARD A À r,c, LA nlcARA,DE BIGARADE - 'Remove 'Remove
the the breast breast fillets fillets and and the the legs legs of of2 2 wild wild
ducks. ducks. Put Put them them into inlo an an earthenware earthenware dish dish
with with salt, salt,coarse-ground coarse-ground pepper, pepper,parsley, parsley,
thyme, thyme, bay bayleaf, leaf,chopped chopped shallots, shallots, lemon lemon
juice juice and and I glass glass good good oil. oil. Keep Keep them them in in
this this seasoning seasoning for for 45 45 minutes minutes before before they they
are are required, required, turning tuming frequently. frequently. 'Thread 'Thread
them them on on a a skewer, skewer, without without packing packing too too
tightly, tightly,
±
DUCK DUCK
sprinkle withthe theseasoning seasoningin inwhich whichthey theywere weresteeped,
steeped, sprinkle with and put on a spit. and put on a spit. 'As soon as youfeel
asyou feelthem them becoming becoming finn firmto tothe thetouch, touch, 'As soon
takethem themoff offthe theskewer. skewer. Wash Washthe thefillets filletsand
putthem andput themone one take by one oneinto into aasauté panin saut6pan jellythe
inwhich pieceof whichaapiece gamejelly ofgame the by size of a walnut has been
melted, with an equal amount of size of a walnut has been melted, with an equal
amount of juiceof butter and and the the juice of I lemon. lemon.Arrange Arrange
and andserve serve with with butter (see SAUCE).' Bigarade sauce sauce(see Bigarade
SA UCE).' WiH duck duckau auchambertin. chambertin. CANARD c,rN.lRD SAUVAGE sAUVAGE
AU AUCHAMBERcHAMBERWild rrN Roast or fry fry the the duck, duck, keeping keeping it
it aalittle little underdone. underdone. TIN - - Roast or Prepare Chambertin (see
SAUCE), Chambertinsauce sauce(see SAUCE), add addto to it itsorne someof of Prepare
juices left the diluted diluted pan pan juices leftover over from from cooking
cooking the theduck, duck,and and the pour over over the the dish. dish.Garnish
Garnishwith with truffies truffiesand and mushrooms. mushrooms. pour (Plumerey's
recipe). Salmis of of wild wildduck duck (plumerey's recipe). SALMIS sALMrs DE
DECANARD cANARD Sabnis 'Cover wild duck SAUVAGE duck with with aamirepoix
(q.v.),wrap mirepoix (q.v.), wrap SAUVAGE -- 'Cover aa wild piece of in a a piece
paper and of paper put to and put to cook cook on spit. After on aaspit. After
cooking cooking in for 30 30 minutes, minutes, unwrap, unwrap, test test to to see
seeif if the theduck duck is is done, done, and and for cut up up in in the the
usual usual manner manner for for aasalmis. salmis. eut joints into 'Put the the
joints into aa casserole, casserole, together together with with the the blood
blood 'Put which cornes comes out out of of them, them, making making sure sure
that that it it neither neither boils boils which nor dries dries up, up, but but
keeps keeps hot. hot. nor 'Have sorne some concentrated, concentrated, thick thick
Financière FinanciDre sauce (se, sauce (see 'Have SAUCE) ready ready in in a
(q.v.). Put a bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.). Put the the bones bones and and SAUCE)
parings of of the the duck duck into into aa saucepan saucepan with glass good
good. red with I glass red parings Bordeaux wine, wine, ~ shallot, 1 I clove,
clove, and and apinch a pinch of of coarsely coaisely f shallot, Bordeaux ground
pepper. pepper. Boil Boil down down to to half, half, add add the the financière
sauce, ground financiire sauce, and cook cook untiJ until it it reaches reaches the
the consistency consistency of of a a salmis salmis sauce. sauce. and Strain, add
add 1 juice of I tablespoon tablespoon olive olive oil oil and and the the juice
lemon. of I lemon. Strain, Arrange the pieces of the pieces of duck duck 00 on
heart-shaped heart-shaped croûtons, cro0tons, Arrange garnish with with sliced
sliced truffies trufles and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and pour the and pour the
garnish sauce over.' over.' sauce
Salmisof of wild duckà ila (Plumerey's recipe). Ia minute(Plumerey's recipe).
sALMrs Salmis wild duck minute SALMIS le Prepare the duck the duck and and -Prepare
cook onthe the as precedingrecipe. spit,as describedin inthe the recipe. While cook
on spit, described preceding While it it cooking,chop parsley,mushrooms
chopparsley, mushrooms and shallotsvery very isiscooking, and shallots finely,
finely, tossthem panin themin ina apan inbutter butterwith pepper,and withsalt,
salt,pepper, and little toss a alittle gratednutmeg. nutmeg.Moisten Moistenwith
glass withi Iglass ofwhite whiteChablis, Chablis,boil grated of boil downby byhalf,
half,and andadd goodtablespoon adda a tablespoonEspagnole Espagnolesauce down good
sauce (seeSA SAUCE). Removefrom fromheat heatand and add {tablespoon (see UCE).
Remove add tablespoon of ofthe the bestmustard. mustard. best 'Takethe jointit,
theduck duckoff offthe thespit, spit,joint putthe it,and andput piecesinto 'Take
pieces the into pan,turning turningthem jellyand gently.Put themgently. Puta a!
ittle littlegame game jelly aa.saut6 ·sauté pan, and pieceof ofbutter butterthe
thesize sizeof ofaasmalJ aapiece smallwalnut walnutinto intothe pan. thepan.
Servethe pieces with theduck duckpieces withthe pouredover.' thesauce saucepoured
Serve over.' WiHduck duckàI l'orange. I'orange.CANARD cANARDSAUVAGE sAUvAGEÀI
L'ORANGE Wild r'on,lNcr- -Fry Fry or roast roastthe theduck. duck. Proceed
Proceedas asdescribed describedin or inthe therecipe recipefor for Duckling
àdl'orange. I'orange. Duckling poRTo- Fry Wildduck duckin port.CANARD inport.
cANARD SAUVAGE sAUvAcEAU Wild AUPORTO or - Fryor roastthe theduck proceed as duck
and and proceed asdescribed describedin roast inthe therecipe recipefor for
Rouenduckling port. duckling in inport. Rouen Wild duck pnsssnpresse. CANARD duckàI
la lapresse. cANARDSAUVAGE Wild sAUvAcEÀ ALA r.lPRESSE proceod as Roastthe theduck
duck from from 18 18to to20 20minutes. minutes.Proceed Roast asdescribed described
in the therecipe recipefor for Pressed PressedRouen in duckling. Rouen duckling.
Roast wild wild duck. duck.CANARD cANARD SAUVAGE Roast sAUvAGER6T1R0rr - Roast
Roastthe theduck duck on brisk brisk heat, heat, either either on on spitor
onaaspit orin inthe theoven. oven. Garnish with with lemon lemon and and orange
orangeslices. Garnish slices.Dilute Dilute the pan the pan juices and
serveseparately. andserve separately. juices Wild duck duck ài la Wild la
tyrolienne (Plumerey's recipe). tyrolienne (plumerey's recipe). CANARD clNlno
SAUVAGE À ALA ra TYROLIENNE SAUVAGE 'Stew cooking rynouENNE- -'Stew cooking apples
applesand andadd addaa little cinnamon cinnamon and !ittle and mace mace to infuse
the to infuse the hot hotapples. apples. Truss Trussthe the duck, stuffit stuffit
with duck, with the the stewed stewed apples, apples, and sewup and sew upthe
theneck neckand and the rump. rump. the
DE cANARDSAUVAGE SAUVAGE.4. unrurnDE CANARD À LA MINUTE

Duckpress press (Lc (La Tour Tour d'Argent. d'Argent. Phot. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas)
Duck

327 327
DUCK PRESS DUCKPRESS
boil1 vincgar with a piece pieœ of butter the Bring to the boil | glass vinegar of
a small walnut, walnut, I coffee-spoon coffee-spoon fine sugar, and a little size
of Baste the the duck duck with with this this during coarsely ground pepper. Baste
on the spit, spit, placing a a pan beneath it it to catch the cooking on juices.
Cooking should be be completed in in 30 JO to to 35 35 minutes. Take the the duck
duck off the the spit, spit, remove remove trussing trussing strings strings and
Take dish. Strain the a dish. the pan juices juices into a a saucepan, on a arrange
on sauce t tablespoon redcurrant redcurrant jelly, jelly, and pour this sauce heat,
add I over the duck.' over duck.'

established entered the established himseli himself, he he entered the service

service of Napoleon Napoleon I, l, as chef. He remained in the service of of the
Emperor Emperor until he he left for Saint Helena but, to his great sorrow, sorrow,
was unable to go into exile with his master on account of of his health, and he
retired to Switzerland. Switzerland. He left to the Lausanne Museum the the
Emperor's Em peror's personal personal table-service, table-service, which which
had had been presented presented to him by Napoleon. Napoleon. It claimed that we
owe the invention of the dish known It is c1aimed as as Chickm Chicken sauft sauté
Marengo to Dunand the younger.

different PRE&'i. pREssE PRESSE A il clNmo ('ANARD - Kitchen K itchen utensil,

ulensil, different DUCK PRESS. serves the sole purpose of from a a meat meat press,
press, in in that that it il serves the sole purpose of from extracting the juices
from the carcase carcase ofduck. of duck. extracting thejuices

There were of this were two two master chefs chefs of this name, DUNAND - There
were equally famous. son, of Swiss origin, who were father and and son, The elder
eIder Dunand Dunand joined joined the French army and became chef to the prince de
Cond6. Condé. His son succeeded him hirn and became
controller of household. When When the the prince prince emigrated controller of
this great household. Dunand followed in 1793 1793 the younger Dunand followed him,
and for twelve in years was wa, in charge of his kitchens. sick man a nostalgic
Then, being a man ard and with with a nostalgie longing to a sick Having resee
Paris once more, he he returned returned to to France. France. Having see Paris
once more,

DUXELLES DUXELLf:S The name derives derives from from Uxel. Uxel, a small town -
The of the C6tesdu-Nord. Côtes-du-Nord. Some believe believc that this thi~ dish
was was socalled because it a Varenne, an it was was created created by t La an
official of of the household of the the Marquis d'Uxelles. d'Uxelles. Duxelles of
Duxelles of mushrooms. mushroorns. DUXELLES DUXELLES DE DE cHAMpIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS
Clean and trim trirn 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) mushrooms, or peelings peelings and Put
them in a stalks, and stalks. and chop them finely. finely. Pu! a cloth and and
twist Lightly brown in butter half tightly to extract all ail liquid. liquid.
Lightly ha If a onion. Add 2 chopped shallots, salt, pepper, nutchopped onion. meg
and the squeezed squeezed mushrooms. St:r Stir over over brisk heat until until the
mushrooms are cooked. Leave to get cold cold and keep in a covered with buttered
paper. cold cold place, place, covered

328 328
EARTH NUTS. NUTS. rERRE-Nox TERRE-NOIX - Tuberous Tuberous root root of a a plant
whose scientific name na me is is Carwn Carum bulbocastanum. bulbocastanum. lt It
is is black
outside and white white inside, tastes tastes like like chestnut chestnut and is
prepared in the same sa me ways. The The seeds seeds of of the the plant plant are
are sometimes sometimes used used in place place of of caraway. caraway. EASTER
EASTER EGGS EGGS - See EGGS.
ÉCHAUDÉ - Pastry Pastry made made with with dough dough which which is is first
nCfHUOn poached in water, then dried in the oven. oyen. The invention of this
pastry is is attributed to Charles-Paul Favart (father of the French dramatist)
who, in 1710, 171 0, was established established as a pastry-cook pastry-cook in
the'rue tI1è rue de la Verrerie Verrerie in Paris. Paris. It is probable probable
that Favart's 'invention' 'invention' consisted consisted merely of improving
improving and altering altering the the shape of of this pastry and thereby
fashion, for it was known in France long long bringing it into fashion, before
Favart's time. It It is mentioned mentioned in a charter of 1210. 1210, where it it
is is described as as 'buns called caUed eschaudati', a a name na me given to to it
because hot hot water water was poured onto the dough to rise. ' make it rise.
Car6me's Carême's recipe is is as as follows: follows: 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.,
oz., 4j 41 cups) cups) flour, salt,2 ftour, lj J-t dl. $ (t pint, pint, 3 1cup)
oil, lt li teaspoons teaspoons salt, 2 dl. Q (t pint, "np) scant scant cup) cup)
water. water. Mix and and knead knead the the dough, and and leave to stand, stand,
wrapped in a cloth, for 2 hours. hours. Divide into into small small pieces,
pieces, shape into a cloth, balls, balls, and and press press three three fingers
fingers into into them them to to make make them hollow. Poach in in water. Drain
and dry in a cloth, and leave to dry thoroughly thoroughly for 2 2 hours. Bake Bake
in in a hot hot oven oyen for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes.

Pipe the the 6clairs éclairs on on to to a a baking sheet in the the shape Pipe
sheet in shape of fingers. Brush with wi th egg and bake in a a hot hot oyen. When
the fingers. oven. When fiU them, using éclairs are cold, slit them along one side,
and fill 6clairs a forcing-bag, forcing-bag, with with French French pastry pastry
cream cream flavoured ftavoured with a vanilla, coffee or chocolate. Ice lce the
the top top of the éclairs 6clairs with ftavoured to blend with the filling. hot
fondant icing, flavoured Eclairs Éclairs can also be filled filled with different
mixtures, such as Crème Chiboust Chiboust (see CREAM), Chantilly, Chantilly, pur6e
purée of of marrons Crime glacds, glacés, or salpicons salpicons of various various
kinds kinds of fruit fruit blended blended in French pastry cream. cream. Small
Small 6clairs éclairs d à la la hollandaise. hollandaise. pnrrrs PETITS fcrAJns
ÉCLAIRS A À r.c, LA HOLLANDAISE - These 6clairs éclairs are served as hors-d'euvre.
hors-d'œuvre. HoLLANDAISE Make the 6clairs éclairs of of unsweetened unsweetened
chou chou paste paste and pipe pipe them Make a baking sheet; sheet; they should be
smaller than ordinary onto a éclairs - about a 4 cm. (H inches) inches) long. Brush
with egg and 6clairs cm. (lt oyen. Leave until they are quite guite cold. bake in a
slow oven. Fillet a large large herring, herring, soak to remove remove all ail
salt and dry in a Fillet clotho Pound Pound in a a mortar, mortar, adding adding 2
yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled cloth. (3 oz., 6 tablespoons) butter. Rub through
a eggs, and 75 g. G fine 1 tablespoon chopped chives chives and ! 1 tablefine
sieve. Add + a smooth paste with a spoon chopped parsley, and work to a éclairs and
fill fil! them with this spatula. Slit the sides of the 6clairs using a a pastry
pastry forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Brush Brush the the tops tops with mixture, using
melted melted butter and and sprinkle with with chopped chopped yolk yolk of of
hardboiled eggs and chopped parsley. parsley, boiled ÉCUELLE - Deep dish used for
serving vegetables. nCUnf,f,n - See CHEESE. CHEESE, EDAM ANGUILLE - Snake-like fish
with viscous and slippery EEL. INcUILLE skin. When When caught caught in in fast-
flowing fast-ftowing water its its flesh ftesh is is very skin. recognised by its
light-brown Iight-brown skin, with delicate. It can be recognised on the back and
and silver on the belly. The shades of brown on ftesh of of eels from a pool or
stagnant water is slimy; the.skin theskin flesh dirty yellow yeUow on the belly. is
dark brown on the back and dirty must be be kept alive alive until the the time
time of of preparation. preparation. They Eels must

nCHm.n ÉCHlRÉ - One One of the the best best French butters. butters, made in the
commune commune of of this name na me (Deux Sdvres). Sèvres).

Coffee Coffee and and chocolate chocolate eclairs éclairs (Zaroasse) (Larousse)

paste (see DOUGH) ECf,n n - Small ÉCLAffiSmaJi pastry pastry made madewith
Choupaste(see with Chou filled fiUed with French French pasty pastry ueam cre am
(see (see CREAM) flavoured ftavoured

with with vanilla, vaniUa, coffee, or chocolate, chocolate, and and iced iced with
Fondant Fondant
icing icing (see ICING). ICING).

be kept kept in in a fish pond or or a large large bucket bucket of of water water
which which should be freguently changed. changed. Eel's EeJ's flesh ftesh is very
nourishing, nourishing, should be frequently though a little \ittle heavy. heavy.
It It becomes becomes more easily easily digestible if if the the though layer of
of fat between between the skin and the the flesh fiesh is removed before layer
cooking. cooking. There are several varieties of of sea eels, the best of of which
which is moray. The conger conger eel eel is another another sea eel which which is
chiefly chiefty used used moray.The bouillabaisse (q.v.). (g.v.). but it also makes
makes excellent excellent matelotes matelotes for bouillabarsse (q.v.). (g.v.).
Lamprey is is similar to to eel, and runs up up rivers in spring. Its Lamprey ftesh
is delicate in flavour fiavour and can be prepared in the same same flesh eel. way
as eel.

329
EEL
a white or brown sauce, sauce, etc. etc. SmaJi Small eels, and fillets or cutlets
eels, and intended for for frying are not cooked first first in in court-bouillon.
Eel à ANGUILLE À A L'ANGLAISE i l'anglaise. I'anglaise.,lNcuIrr,e L'A,NGLAIsE a
boned eel boned eel - Cut a (2-inch) pieces. pieces. Flatten, into Flatten, and and
marinate into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) marinate for for 30 pepper. Coat lemon juice or
vinegar, salt and pepper. minutes in oil, lemon the pieces with with egg egg and
and breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Serve Serve (see SAUCE) to with with
Butter sauce sauce (see little anchovy to which which a a little butter has been
added. Ballottine of of eel, eel, or shrffed eel. eel. BALLOTTINE slu.orrlNE
D'ANGUILLE D'I,NGUILLE or stuffed (nNcunrn FARCIE) (ANGUILLE This dish is rr,ncn)
cold. When is served hot or cold. - This hot, it can can be be served servd with
with the the garnishes and and sauces recommended for large braised for large
braised fish. fish. When cold, ail all the the recipes mended When cold, given for
cold fish fish can be applied to to it. Cold ballottine of eel eel is also called
called galantine of eel. Co Id ballottine or galantine of eel sausage, Cold or
galantine of eel, eel, or or eel sausage, or stuffed jellied eel. BALLOTTINE
D'ANGUILLE stuffed jeltied eel. BALLoTTINE D'aNGUILLT FROIDE, FRoIDE,
GALANTINE, SAUCISSON À LA D'ANGUILLE, ANGUILLE FARCIE r.ARcn,i r.q, sAUcIssoN
D'ANGUILLE,
aquarium Eel in an aquarium

'l

described described in in Hot ballottine ballottine of of eel (see below). Poach

Poach gently in red red or white wine court-bouillon (q.v.). Drain and unwrap,
unwrap, then in the Drain and rewrap the then rewrap the fish fish in the muslin
little, and cIo th, rinsed out. Tie with string, rinsed out. cloth, string,
tightening it a a little, a press. put under a press. Leave Leave for for 12 12
hours to to get quite cold. Unwrap the ballottine, dry, dry, trim, and coat coat
with jelly or trim, and Chaud-froid (see SAUCE). Serve and as described Chaud-froid
(see and garnish as described in the recipe. The fish stock for cold cold
ballottine of eel eel is is made with red or white wine. the ballottine is is
cooked, wine. After the cooked. the the stock is clarified as described described
in in the the recipe clarified as recipe for for Fish jelly stock (see JELL Y), and
and used used for coating and garnishing the for coating and garnishing JELLY), the
eel. eel. jelly, serve When the the ballottine is is prepared only When serye comin
jelly, only in pletely covered placed on a covered in its jelly, the dish being
placed a larger one and surrounded by crushed ice.
BALLOTTINE D'ANGUILLE Hot ballottine of eel. eel. BALLoTTTNE D'lNcuILLE CHAUDE
cHAUDE a large large eel, flatten slightly, season with salt, Prepare a salt,
pepper and spices. spices. Fill Fill with stuffing the and with forcemeat, stuffing
the fish fish so so as as to muslin cloth and retain its shape. Wrap the ballottine
in a a muslin tie it at both ends and in 3 or 4 places in the middle. Put onto the
grill of of a a buttered fish kettle. Coyer Put Cover with white red wine court-
bouillon. Bring to to the boil, coyer the pan, or red cover the unwrap the eel.
Place in a and poach gently. Drain and unwrap a firedish and and glaze in the the
oven, oyen, basting basting frequently proof dish glaze in frequently with pan
juices. juices. the thickened pan The wine wine liquor liquor for for boiling
boiling ballottine ballottine of eel, which The of eel, in butter added to it,
usually has has diced diced vegetables sautéed usually added to sauteed in should
be be further further strengthened strengthened by by adding adding the the bones
bones and should from other fish, fish, if possible. possible. After cooking the
trimmings from liquor should be used used as as a basis for the sauce ballottine,
the liquor sauce which is to accompany it. eel will be be found found under
ForceStuffing for ballottine of eel FORCE MEATS). with fish (see FoRCEMEATS). meats
withfish eel In addition to the recipes listed below for ballottine of of eel be
applied applied to to it. ail those given for for large braised fish fish can be
all fish can be accompanied by a a simple garnish such as The fish such as
mushrooms, various various croquettes, macddoine macédoine of vegetables,
mushrooms, potatoes prepared in various ways, rice pilaf, or risotto. Ballottine of
eel eel I à l'ancienne. BALLoTTTNE BALLOTTINE o'ANGUrrrr D'ANGUILLE À A L'ANCIENNE
- Stuff Stuff the eel eel with whiting forcemeat to which L'nNcrENNE added. Prepare
as as described described above diced truffies have been added. above court-
bouillon with white white wine. and poach in court-bouillonwith a foundation of
fish fish forceDrain, glaze, and and arrange on a meat or on a a cro0ton croûton of
ofbread meat bread fried in butter. Surround with l'ancienne garnish garnish (see
(see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Cover Coyer with à I'ancienne d Normande sauce sauce
(se (see SAUCE) diluted diluted with the boiled down Normande liquor in which the
eel eel was cooked and finished with finely liquor shredded mirepoix mirepoix
(q.v.) of vegetables and Madeira. Madeira. shredded Ballottine of of eel eel i à la
la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE Ballottine D'ANGUILLE A À
r,,r LA gouRGUrcNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE - Stuff the the eel eel with with a a
D'ANcurLLE -

GELÉE - Bone cu,6r Bone the the eel and fill fill with stuffing and and wrap eel
and with stuffing wrap as as

lo skin an eel eel How to

skinning the fish, fish, kill kiU it by banging banging the head hard Before
skinning against a stone. stone. As soon as it is dead, hang it up on a hook ho ok
against string tied at the neck. neck. Make Make a circular incision incision below
by a string string. Turn the the skin back all aU round the neck in such a the
string. wayas to be able to hold it with a cloth and then th en tear the way as to
skin off. off. skin c1ean it by making ma king a light light incision incision
along Trim the eel and clean the belly. belly. Cut off off the head, which is
thrown away, and cut the the fish fish into slices or leave leave whole, as
directed in the recipe. recipe. the the eel eel whole, whole, you you can can cut
it into Instead of skinning the Instead pieces. Grill them for a few moments under
a brisk flame, flame, pieces. turning them them to catch the skin on on all ail
sides. Under Under the action action turning of the the heat heat the the skin
blisters blisters and and can can be be easily taken taken off. of This method
method of of skinning skinning also also has has the advantage advantage of of
removing removing This the excess excess fat. fat. the An eel weighing weighing
about about 750 750 g. (li (ltlb.) be cooked in the An lb.) can be court-bouillon
(white or red wine) following way in in a wine court-bouillon following the eel
into 6-cm. (2*-inch) (2~-inch) pieces, or vegetables. Cut the with vegetables.
leave whole, whole, and and cook cook in in a a well-buttered well-buttered pan pan
on on a a foundation leave oz., i ~ cup) each each of of chopped onions onions and
carrots carrots of 50 g. (2 oz., per litre litre (scant (scant quart, generous
generous quart) liquid. liquid. Press well weil to per make the the fish lie lie
flat. Add a crushed crushed clove c10ve of garlic and a a make bouquet garni
(q.v.). Season with with salt and and freshly freshly ground ground bouquet pepper.
Cover Coyer the the fish fish with the the wine and cook cook slowly slowly on the
pepper. of the the stove. stove. side of side court-bouillon can afterwards
afterwards be prepared Eel cooked in court-bouillon Eel à Ia la bourguignonne,
bourguignonne, fied, fried, grilled, grilled, d à la tartare, en en matelote,
matelote, in in d 330 330
EEL EEL

pike pike or whiting whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with with chopped
chopped parsley. parsley .
Prepare as described under under Hot ballottine ballottine of of eel and poach
poach glaze, and arrange on a in a red wine court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Drain,
glaze, croûton of of crustless crustless bread bread fried fried in in butter.
butter. Garnish Garnish ri à /a la cro0ton GARNISHES) and and cover coyer with with
,BorrBourbourguignonne (see (see GARNISHES) bourguignonne guignonne SAUCE) made
made with with the the liquor liquor left guignonne sauce (see (see SAUCE) fish.
over from cooking the fish. Ballottine à la gauloise. BALLoTTTNE BALLOTTINe
o'.rNclrtrrs D'ANGUILLE A À BaUottine of eel I LA LA cAULorsE GAULOISE - Stuff the
eel with pike or whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed truffies and and mushrooms.
mixed with with a a salpicon (q.v.) (q .v.) of truffies and poach in Prepare as as
described in Hot Hot ballottine ballotline of eel eel and white white wine court-
bouillon. Drain, and arrange on a crustless croûton of bread fried fried in butter.
Surround Surround with artichoke artichoke crotton hearts hearts filled [1.\)00
with carps' carps' soft soft roes roes cooked cooked in butter, butter, and pastry
boats filled with Crayfish tail tail ragottt ragoùt d à Ia la Nanttn Nantua (see
CRAYboats FISH) . FrsH). Boil down the liquor liquor in which the eel was cooked,
thicken thicken witb Espagnole sauce (see SAUCE), add butter, strain, and with pour
over the dish. dish.

bastion ofeel, baSLion of cel. after Car6me lfte. Ca réme

BASTIoN D'ANGUILLE D'ANcUILLE 2 large eels, Bone 2 Bastion of eel. eel. BASTiON -
Bone fill them and diced diced truffies. fill thern with with a truffles . a pike
or whiting stuffing and Wrap in a piece of muslin and tie with string. Cook in
white wine well-flavoured fish fish stock. stock. Drain,' Drain, unwrap, unwrap,
and wine and and well-flavoured cool under a press. a press. (4 inches) jnches)
long, and Cut the eels into pieces about about JO l0 cm. cm. (4 coat with Chaud-
froid sauce (see SA UCE) prepared prepared with the SAUCE) liquor in which fish was
cooked. Decorate with truffies which the fish truffles pieces of and small small
pieces hard-boiled egg whites. Glaze Glaze with and egg whites. of hard-boiled
jelly. Arrange on on a a bed bod of cooked rice rice or on buttered liquid jelly.
pieces upright, next to croûtons cro0tons of bread, placing the pieces to each
halved hardother. other. Gamish of the the dish dish with with halved the border of
Garnish the boiled eggs and jelly croûtons crottons.. press and Poached Poachd
fille15 fillets of of sole, sole, cooled cooled under under a a press and cut cut
to like 10ophoJes, loopholes, can look Jike can be lISed used as as decoration for
bastions jelly of eel. eel. The The holes holes should should be filled in in with
with truffles, of be filled truffies, jelly croûtons, Montpellier butter (see
BUTTER, Compound cro0tons, and and Montpellier Compound prepared for grand
occasions. butters). These dishes are bultp.r.I'). are prepared occasions. femme.
ANGUILLE Eel à i la la bonne ANcUILLE À A LA rl BONNE soNr.rE FEMME FEMME Eel bonne
femme. pieces or Place an an ee) weight, either cut in left Place either cut eel of
of average weight, in pieces or Ieft pan on and rolled rolled into a a ring, ring,
in in a on a a foundation foundation of 4 whole and a pan (5 tablespoons)
tablespoons (5 lightly fried fried in tablespoons in tablespoons) chopped chopped
onion onion Jightly pepper, add butter. Season with salt a bouquet garni and salt
and pepper, butter. add a and pint, with 3 dl. l] dl. (t wine. Poach gently,
moisten with t, 1 t cups) white wine. $ pin pan, for with the the !id lid on for 25
with on the the pan, 25 minutes. Drain the the eel and arrange arrange on on
croûtons crofftons of bread fried in Drain in eel and bread fried diced potatoes
fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish with diced Boil down the pan juices by
half, blend I tablespoon Boil blend with 1 fish. Sprinkle with kneaded butter,
strain, and pour over over the fish. parsley. chopped parsley. chopped Collared ee~
eel, cold. RoULADE D'ANGUILLE, FROIDE FRoTDE Collared cold. ROULADE - Bone and
stuff stuff an an eel, eel, make make into a ring, and and a ring, and proceed as
as described described in the the recipe recipe for in for Ballottine of eel, eel,
cold. Collared eel eel à I'angevine. ROULADE Collared i l'angevine. RoULADE
D'ANGUILLE D'ANcurLLE À A L'ANcEvINE -- Skin Skin and bone an L'ANGEVINE an eel eel
and and season season with with salt salt and and

pepper. Stulf Stuff with pike forcemeat bound bound with an egg and a salpicon
mushrooms and truffies. tcuffies. Reshape Reshape the the eel, salpicon (q.v.)
(q .v.) of mushrooms wrap it in rashers of bacon, make into inta a ring and tie tie
with string. Fry sliced onion onion and carrot carrot lightly lightly in butter.
butter. Put the eel in in a a pan pan on on this bed bed of of vegetables,
vegetables, together with with a a leek, leek, a branch branch of savory and a
large bouquet bouquet garni. garni. Cover the fish with white Anjou wine (not (not
too sweet). Bring Bring to the the boil and white Anjou remove scum. scum. Simmer
Sim mer gently for [or 35 35 minutes with the pan covered. covered . Drain the
fish. fish . Unwrap and put it into another pan with peeled mushrooms mushrooms
which have been tossed in butter. Make Make a white roux (q.v.) of 50 g. g. (2 (2
oz., i c.tp) cup) butter and 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., * ~ cup) flour. flour.
Dilute with with the the strained strained pan pan juices, juices, ",rp) blend
blend well, weil, and and add add the the parings of the the mushrooms. musbrooms.
Boil down on full heat, and add 3j dl. (generous (generous 1pin t, lj l! cups) I
pint, fresh Simmer until until the the sauce sauce reaches reaches the the desired
fresh cream. cream. Simmer Crayfish butter consistency, and and add add 100 100 g.
g. (4 (4 oz., ! cup) Crayjish butter i "up) (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound
butters). bUl/ers). Collared à la la bordelaise. bordelaise. RoULADE ROULADE
n'.c.NcuLte D'ANGUILLE A À ta LA Collared eel eel il BoRDELATsE Stuff the eel with
Fish nORDELAlSE - Stuff Fishforcemeat (see FORCEforcemeat (see MEAT) flavoured
fl.avoured with anchovy butter to which has has been added chopped parsley. Make
the eel eel into a ring and poach in a a red red Bordeaux wine court-bouillon.
Drain, Drain , arrange on a middle. cèpes tn in the rniddle. dish, and put a
pyramid of cooked cipes strain, as Thicken the Thicken the pan pan juices juices
with with kneaded kneaded butter, butter, strain, indicated sauce (see SA SAUCE)
UCE) and and pour indica ted for thin thin Bordelaise sauce fish. Garnish over the
fish. Garnish with with heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons croo.tons fried fried in
butter. bUller. prepared in the same of stuffed eel eel d bordelaise are Pieces of
à la bordelaise are preparw manner. royale. RoULADE A LA tt Collared eel à i la
Collared eel la royale. ROULADE o'^lNcuttrl D'ANGUILLE À RoyALE eel into a a ring,
and and poach a medium-sized eel ROYALE - Make a a mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) in wine
court-bouillon in white white wine court-bouillon with with a (q.v.) of get cold
Leave to to get cold in in its vegetables. Leave i15 liquor. liquor. Drain, dry,
dry, and (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Fry in deep fat coat with with Villeroi
.I·auet! fat and drain. Fill the centre with soft roes à d la la Villeroi.
Villeroi. Surround with Fill with soft dressed crayfish cooked in in court
bouillon, alternating alternating with dressed (see parsley. Serve with sauce (see
bunches of of fried bunches fried parsLey. with Normande Normande sauce SAUCE) UCE)
to which chopped truffies truffles have been added. SA D'ANGUITII Eel coulibiac
(Russian cookery). COULIBIAC couLIBIAc D Eel ' ANGUILLE (see given for Follow the
of salmon salmon (see the recipe Coulibiac of Follow recipe given for Coulibiac
SALMON), replacing the the salmon by boned, shced sliced eel. SALMON), pETITS
COULillIACS o'aNcultts -- See Little eel epl coulibiacs. PETITS couLIBIAcs
D'ANGUILLE SALMON, Small coulibiacs coulibiacs of of salmon. SALMON, with paprika,
or à I la la hongroise. ANGUILLE lNcuLrs À A E€l in crearo cream with Eel tl CRÈME,
AU PAPRIKA, IArRIKA, DITE DITE À A LA u HONGROISE noNcnolsE -- Cut Cut an an eel
cniuE, AU LA pieces and into pieces a saucepan on a a foundation of and put them in
a into paprika, fried in butter. Sprinkle wilh with paprika, shredded onion lightly
friee! addabouquet and season season.. add a bouquet garni and fish with with white
white wine wine and and bring bring to to the Cover the the fish the boil. Coyer
pan and for 20 20 minutes. About About 8 Cover the the pan and cook cook for 8
minutes Coyer peeled mushrooms heads. the end end of of cooking, cooking, add add
peeled before the eel on a a croûton cro0ton of fried bread, Drain, arrange each
piece of eel garnish with the Keep hot. and garnish the mushrooms. Keep and juices
by half and and strain strain.. Add 2 the pan juices 2 tabletableBoil down the (see
SAUCE) (3 tablespoons) Veloutd sauce (see spoons (3 tablespoons) thin thin Velouté
SAUCE) and spoons (+ piot, pint, seant 2 dl. dl. (1scant cup) cup) cream. cream.
Cook Cook until until the the sauce sauce coats 2 g. (3 the surface surface of a
spoon spoon. Add 75 75 g. oz, 6 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) of a the . Add Q oz.,
fish.. and pour over the fish butter, strain, and Make a Eel à I la la diable.
diable. ANGUILLE ANGUILLE À A LA rl DIABLE oHsrB -- Make a mediumEel sized eel eel
into a a ring. ring. Poach in in white wine wine court-bouillon, and and sized
liquor. Drain, dry, dry, coat to cool cool in in the the Iiquor. coat with with
mustard, leave to sprinkle with melted and dip dip [n in breadcrumbs mixed melted
butter, butter, and sprinkle pinch of pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle again with melted a
pinch of cayenne pepper. with a grill gently gently. butter and grill . Surround
with with a a border of gherkins half slices slices of and balf border of eherkins
and Surround

:tt

33r 331
EEL
decoratively cut lemon. decoratively eut lemon. Serve Serve with with Diable Diable
sauce sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Eel I à la fermibre. fermière. ANGUILLE ANGU-
ILLE ,i, À rl LA rnnudns FERMIERE - Cut Cut an an eel Eel tbem in a pan on a
foundation of 2 dl. into pieces and put them ($ Season (t pint, pint, scant scant
cup) cup) of a fondue (q.v.) of vegetables. Season dl. (scant with 2l with salt
salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten Moisten with 2! dl. (scant I t pint, with
generous generous cup) white wine and add a bouquet garni. Bring Bring to cover the
pan, pan. and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Drain, the boil, cover cro0tons of bread.
and arrange the the pieces pieces of eel eel on on fried fried croûtons bread. and
and pour cream, and Boil down down the the pan pan juices, juices, thicken thicken
with with cream, Boil
over the fish. rN rntclssfp an eel into eel. ANGUILLE EN FRICASSÉE - Cut an eel imo
Fricassée of eel. Fricass6e (2| inches), pieces of about 6 to 7 cm. cm. (21
inches), season season with salt and pan. Add pepper, 12 wella well-buttered
pepper, and and put put into into a well-buttered pan. Add 12 and a a bouquet
garni. garni. Moisten with with water blanched onions and Bring to the boil, cover
and white wine in equal proportions. BrÎng and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes. About 5
minutes the pan, and add l0 tbe end of cooking cooking add 10 sliced mushrooms.
before the dish, and and garnish Drain the arrange on on a the fish, fish, arrange
a shallow shallow dish, Strain the with the the well-drained well-drained onions
onions and and mushrooms. Strain with (scant I cup) pan Veloutd cup) tbin thin
Velouté pan juices, juices, add 3 tablespoons (seant add 3 sauce (see SA UCE) and
boil down by half. SAUCE) (6 tablespoons, Add mixed with wilh I 1 dl. dl. (6
tablespoons, scant egg yolks mixed Add 2 2 egg t cup) cream and 50 g. oz., t cup)
butter. butter. Strain, and pour E (2 oz.,i * fried in cro0tons fried fish. Garnish
heart-shaped croûtons over the fish. Garnish with heart-shaped butter. Skin small
small eels, eels, make light Fried - Skin Fried eel. eel. ANGUILLE FRITE figures of
and twist into rings or figures incisions on backs, and twist into rings or on Ihe
the backs, incisions in milk, dredge with eigbt. with skewers. Soak in wîth flour
eight. Secure with parsley and fried parsley and quarters and În deep fat. fat.
Garnish with fried and fry in of lemon. an eel eel into oRLy -- Slice Slice an
Fried eel Orly. ANGUILLE FRITE ORLY Fried eel Orly. .lucuILLE dry. GarnÎsh Garnish
fiUets, balter, and dry. season, dip in a light batter, fillets, flatten, season,
SAUCE). with fried parsley parsley and serve with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). with
eel slices can be dipped in beaten egg and breadcrumbs The eel instead of butter.
butter.

Fd Eel I à I'italienne. l'italienne. ANGUILLE A AL'ITI,LIENxr L'[TALlENN"E- Cut a

mediumsized eel eel in uniform unifonn pieces, rieces, season, and fry briskly in
oil to stiffen the fish. nsh. Remove from from the pan, pan. and in in the same oil
brown brown 2 tablespoons (3 (J tablespoons) chopped onion. When and 125 nearly
nearly done, add add I 1 teaspoon leuspoon chopped shallots and 125 g. (4 (4 oz.)
diced mushrooms musbrooms or mushroom mushroom stalks. Put the the eel dl. (6 scant
* back back into the the pan, pan, add add 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant t cup) and
2t dl. white wine and dl. (scant (seant t pint, pint, generous geoerous cup) tomato
sauce. sauce. Simmer gently, genlly, with wÎth the lid on the pan, for 25 25 to to
30

Gallantine of of eel Gallantine in a coil. coil, arranged io arrange<! after Carême

Careme afler

(q.v.) of (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) and and with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.)
crime (see crème fillets of sole sole [0 to which which truffies truffies have been
added. added. Twist the fillets have been with into a a dome dome shape, shape, and
and secure secure with eel, eel, coiling it upwards into string [0 to help help it
it keep keep this this shape. shape. Cook Cook in in a a well-flavoured well-
flavoured string fish stock. stockwhite wine fish leave to to cool. with Chaud-
froid sauce Drain, cool. Cover Drain, and and Icave Cover with (see SAUCE) with the
the Iiquor liquor in in which which the the fish fish (see SAUCE) prepared with
with truffies truffies and and hard-boiled hard-boiled egg was cooked. cooked.
Decorate Decorate with was jelly. Serve on a rice, or white. Glaze Glaze with fish
jelly. a bed of of.cooked or cooked riee. white. bread croûtons. cro0tons. on
buttered bread jellied eel. eel. GALANTINE D'ANGurm À Galantine of of jellied
clrnNTrNE D'ANGUILLE A LA r,c, Galantine for Cold ballottine ofeel. cfrm -- Another
name for of eel. GÉLEE eel maitre maitre d'hôtel. d'h6tel. ANGUILLE ANGUTLLE
GRILLÉE cnnr6n MAtTRE u.drnr GriUed Grilld eel o'tt6ttt -- Prepare Prepare the the
eel eel as as described described for for Eel à d la la diable, diable, D'H6TEL
omitting the the mus1ard. mustard. Cover Cover with with softened softend Maître
Maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel omitting (see BUTTER, Compound butter (see Compound
bUllers). butters). buller can be served witb with ail recommended Grilld eel eel
can all the sauces recommended be served Grilled grilled fish. for grilled
332 332

D'ANGInLLE a eoit. coil. GALANTINE cALANTINE D'ANGUILLE Galantine of eel arranged

in a with Pike forcemeat à d la EN VOLUIT voLUTE - Bone Bone a alarge eel. Stuff wi
EN large eel. th Pike

sprinkle with chopped parsley, chervil To serve, minutes. To serve, sprinkle and
tarragon. tarragon. Eel en matelote. ANcUILLE ANGUILLE EN MATELoTE MA TELOTI - Cut
a a skinned for Matelote eel eel into pieces and prepare as as described described
for Matelote d à la marinidre meunilre (see MATELOTE). marinière or d à la meunière
Eel en matelote à h la normande. ANGUILLE ANG lJILLE sN EN tlrlTErorc MATELOTE A À
proceed as LA Cut an LA NoRMANpB NORMANDE - Cut an eel eel into into pieces pieces
and and proceed normande (se,e described described for Matelote Malelote d à la
normande (see MATELOTE). MATELOTE). Eel i à la meuniire. meunière. lNcutI,re
ANGUILLE A À rn LA Ir,muminn MEUNlÈRE- Cut small eels pieces. Season, into 10-cm.
Season, dredge with flour 1O-cm. (,l-inch) (4-inch) pieces. f10ur and fry fry in on
top, in butter. butter. Scatter chopped chopped parsley parsley on top, sprinkle
sprinkle with lemon juice, butter (see juice, and cover caver with Noisette
Noiselle bUller (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUll ers).
D'ANGLTLLE Hot eel cnauo D'ANGlJlLLE eel pie Hot pie (English PÂTÉ CHAUD @nglish
cookery). pArf about A of a t'.lNcr,^arsnof eel into slices of À L'ANGLAlSE - Cut
trimmed t(immed fillets of bout 5 to drain, and leave 6^. (2 cm. (2 inches).
inches). Blanch in in salted salted water, drain, leave 10 grated nutmeg, and cool.
Season Season with salt, pepper, and grated cool. wjth salt, pepper, and nutmeg,
and with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle sprinkle with parsley. slices in a
Arrange a pie dish, alternating alternating with Arrange the eel sJices wlth layers
sliced hard-boiled eggs. Cover the of sliced bard-boiled eggs. Ihe fish fish with
with white wine, (see with Puff and add a Cover with and a few dabs dabs of butter.
butter. Cover Puff pastry pastry (see crimp the the edges, edges, and and DOUGH).
Brush Brush with beaten egg, egg, crimp with beaten a hole in the middle middle of
the pastry to allow steam to make a pastry to escape. Bake in a moderate oven for
escape. for li hours. a few into the pie a To serve, pour ioto few tablespoons thin
Demi Demiglace (see SAUCE). pArE m6nagire. PÂTÉ called à la aux fines fines herbes,
calle<! Hot eel eel pie pÎe aux la menagère. otrs À u6u.lcinn - CUI Cut eel A LA ut
MÉNAGERE cHAUD Arrx CHAUD AUX FINES f1NES HERBES HERBES DITE lightly and and season
into S-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) pieces. Flatten lightly slices ioto pepper and and
sprinkle wilh with salt, pepper and spices. spices. Put in a a dish and with saIl,
oil. Leave in and a a dash dash of olive oil. white wine, a a little brandy brandy
and place to marinate for 2 hours. a cool place a butter, and the pieces, fry fry
them thern briskly in Drain and dry the in butter, shallots and parsley. Remove
liberally with cbopped chopped shallots sprinkle Iiberally the pan from the heat
and pour into it the marinade. Leave heat and to stand until quite cold. pastry.
Cover pie dish with a a layer of pike dish with a pie Cover with Line a with
pastry. layer of eel pieces choppod parsley added. Place the eel forcemeat with
chopped layers of the the forcemeat. on top, top, aJternating alternating with on
with layers rorcemeat. Sprinkle with a a 2-cm. and finish each layer layer with
marinade and each with the the marinade finish with (}inch) melted butter and and
G-inch) layer of forcemeat. Sprinkle with meHed cut in in fancy cover with pastry.
Decorate the the top with pastry cut rancy escape. Brush Make an to allow to
escape. an opening to shapes. Make allow steam 10 shapes. Brusb hours. a moderate
oven oven for for 2 hours. with egg, egg, and and bake in a thin Demi glace a few
few tablespoons tablespoons thin Before serving, serving, pour a Beforc the opening
into the dish. SAUCE) througb the (see SA UCE) through pArf CHAUD pie à la A LA
crnuo o'lNcutttr Hot eel eel pie la Nantua. Nanha. PÂTÉ Hot D'ANGUILLE À for Hot
l'el eel pie recipe for NANTUA as described in in the the recipe - Proceed as with
trumes, truffies, pike herbes, using eel eel slices slices studded studded with aux
fines fines herbes, (see BUTTER, BUTTER, with Crayfish butter (see forcemeat
ftavoured flavoured witb Crayfuh buller forcemeat Compound bUlters), butters), and
and crayfish tails. Compollnd pie a Veloutd sauce sauce few tablespoons thin thin
Velouté the pie a few into the Pour into Pour SAUCE) (see SA UCE) flavoured with
crayfish butter. pArE CHAUD pie witb D'ANcUILLE AUX Aux cueuo D'ANGUILLE Hot eel
eel pie with truffies. trufles. PÂTI Hol Hot ee/ recipe for for Hot eel pie as
describcd describd in the the recipe TRUFITEs TRUFFES - Proceed as and truffies,
and slices of eel eel studded with truffles, herbes, using slices aux filles aux
fines herbes, pike forcemeat alternating forcemeat and and diced dicd truffles,
trufreso alternating a mixture of pike a slices of truffies. with thick slices pAru
FROID (English eookery). pie (Englisb o'lNcuttt.u À A rnon D'ANGUILLE cookery).
PÂTÉ eel pie Cold eel

lj

u
EEL

(Robert Carrier) Eel en Eel en matelote matelote (Robert Carrier)

333 333
EFFERVESCENCE EFFER VESCENCE
L'ANGLATSE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe
for for Hal Hot eel eel L'ANGLAISE pie. Leave Leave la to cool cool for for several
several hours hours before before serving. serving. pie. pArf fROiD pie à Cold eel
eel pie i la la ménagère. m6nagire. PÂTÉ rnon D'ANGUILLE D'ANcr.[rrr À A Cold rl
MÉNAGÈRE MfN,c,ctRE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the recipe
for the recipe for HOI Hot LA pie aux pie is eel pie aux fines herbes. When quite
cold, When the the pie pour in is quite cold, pour in fines herbes. eel jelly made
through the the opening pastry, liquid opening in in the the pastry, liquid aspic
aspic jelly made through from fisn fish bones. bones. Leave Leave for get cold for
12 12 hours hours to to get cold again. again. from pArr FROID pie with CoH eel eel
pÎe with truffles. trufres. PÂTÉ rnom D'ANGUILLE D'ANcurLr-E AUX Ar.rx Cold TRUFFES
-- As As HOI Hot eel pie will! eel pie truffies. Finish with truffies. Finish with
with fish fish aspic aspic TRUFFES jelly based based on on truffle trufre essence.
essence. Leave Leave for get cold. for 12 12 hours hours to to get cold. jelly
prfuoNrarsn - Prepare pi6montaise. ANGUILLE EeI à i la la piémontaise. ANGUTLLE À A
1--\ m PIÉMONTAISE Eel - Prepare a medium-sized medium-sizd eel, eel, or or eel eel
slices, slices, as as described described in in the recipe the recipe a for Gri/led
Grilled eel eel maître maitre d'hôlel. d'h6tel. Arrange Arrange on on a a
faundation foundation of of for pidmontadse (see (see RICE). Risotto à d la Ia
piémontaise RICE). Surround Surround with with a a border RisOllO (see SA of Tomalo
Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). of UCE). pournrre -- Fry poulette. ANGUILLE Eel à t
la la poulette. ANGUTLLE À A LA r,c, POULETTE Fry 2 2 tabletableEel (3 tablespoons)
spoons (3 gently in tablespoons) chopped chopped onion onion gently in butter. Add
Add spoons eel slices, slices, cooking cooking them them for for a a minute minute
or or two two in in the the butter. eel pepper, and Sprinkle with with salt salt
and and pepper, and 1 I tablespoon tablespoon Hour. flour. Cover Cover Sprinkle the
fish fish with with white white wine wine and garni. Simmer and add add a a bouquet
bouquet garni. Simmer the gently, with pan, for with the the lid lid on on the the
pan, for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. About About gently, l0 minutes minutes
before peeled, sliced before serving serving add 12 peeled. add 12 sliced
mushrooms. 10 garnished with Serve the the fish fish garnished with the the
mushrooms. mushrooms. Thicken Thicken the Serve juices with pan juices yolks, as
with egg egg yolks, as described described for for Poule Poulette sauce pan Ile
sauce (see SAUCE). pour overthe SAUCE). Strain, Strain, pour over the fish, fish,
and and sprinkle with with (see parsley. chopped parsley. chopped pnovENgALE - Fry
Eel à provengale. ANGmLLE i la la provençale. ANGUTLLE À A LA r,c, PROVENÇALE ~l -
Fry 2 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped gently in chopped onion
onion gently in oil, oil, tablespoons eel slices slices and add eel and toss toss
in the fried fried onion. onion. Season Season with with salt add in the pepper,
add and pepper, add 4 4 peeled, deseeded, chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, a and
peeled, deseeded, garni, and garlic. Moisten bouquet garni, and a crushed garlic. a
little with 1 I dL dl. bouquet little crusbed Moisten with (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, seant! scant I cup) cup) white white wine. gently with Simmer with (6
wine. Sim mer gently pan for ,25 to the lid on on the 30 minutes. minutes. About
About 10 l0 minutes the pan for .25 to 30 the lid before serving add add20 Simmer
slowly. Sprinkle Sprinkle before serving 20 black black olives. olives. Simmer with
serving. with chopped chopped parsley parsley just just before before serving. Eel
risotto. ANcUTLLE Rrsorro. See See Eel d la Ia ANGUIlLE AU AU RISOTTO. Eel à Eel
with witb rÎsoUo. piCmontaise. piémontaise. Eel la romrine. r.,c, Rorr,rA,rr.[E A
LA a mediumEel i à la romaine. ANcurLr.,E ANGUilLE À ROMAINE Cut a medium- Cut size
Season with salt and size eel eel into into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) (2-inch) pieces.
pieces. Season with salt pepper (12 o2.,2| g. (12 pepper and aod fry fry briskly
briskly in in butter. buUer. Add Add 350 350 g. oz., 2~ cups) freshly freshly
shelled shelled garden garden peas, peas, a a small small lettuce lettuce shredded
shredded into îoto a a chffinade chiffonade (q.v.), (q.v.), 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,
Ol., i cup) butter butter and and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons I cup) (3 slowly in
(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) white while wine. wine. Cook Cook slowly in an an
uncovered uncovered pan. pan. Just Just before before serving, serving, blend blend
in in j i tablespoon tablespoon kneaded kneaded butter. butter. Eel Ee1 on on
skewers skewers i à I'anglaise. l'anglaise. ANcUTLLE ANGUlLLE EN EN BRocHErre
BROCHETTE A À juice, L'ANcLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Marinate Marinate eel eel pieces
pieces in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepper, pepper, salt, salt, and aod
chopped chopped parsley parsley for for I 1 hour. hour. Drain, Drain, dredge dredge
in flour, flour, dip dip in in egg, egg, and and roll roll in in breadcrumbs.
breadcrumbs. Thread Tbread on on metal skewers, puttîng a a slice slice of of fat
fat bacon bacon between betweeo each each piece piece of of skewers, putting fish.
fish. Grill Grill on on a a low low flame. flame. Garnish Garnish with with
parsley, parsley, and and half half slices slices of of decoratively decoratively
cut lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (se (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Eel Eel i à la la tartare tartare I. J. al.rcurrr-E ANGUILLE A À
r.l LA rmrmrTARTARE - Cook Cook eel eel slices sUces in courl-bouillon. Leave Leave
to to cool cool in in this this liquor. liquor. in white white wine wine court-
bouillon. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, dip dip ir in egg egg and and breadcrumbs,
breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Garnish Garoish with with fried fried
parsley parsley and and serve serve with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE). SA VCE). Frl Eel i à la la tartare tartare II. U. lNcurrrs ANGlJ1LLE A À
r,l LA r,c,RrA,nn TARTARE - Cook Cook the the eel eel as as described described
above. above. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, coat coat with with melted melted butter,
butter, and and roll roll in in finely finely grated grate<! breadcrumbs.
breadcrumbs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with melted mc1ted butter butter and and grill
grill on on a a gentle geotle heat. heat. Surround Surround with with a a border
border of of gherkins gherkins and and half half slices slices of of decoratively
decoratively cut cut lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with Tartare Tor/are sauce
sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Hot Hot eel ee1 tourte. tourte. ToLIRTE TOURTE
cHAUDE CHAUDE D'l,NcuILLE D'ANGUilLE - Proceed Proceed as as described in
the'recipe the' recipe for for Hot HOI eel eel pie pie aux aux fines filles herbes,
herbes, described in pie using using a a pie dish dish with with slightly slîghtly
raised raised edges. edges.

Cold eel eel tourte. tourte. TOURTE FRoTDE D'ANGUILLE TorJRrE FROIDE D'ANcurLLE --
Proceed Proceed as as Cold described in in the the recipe recipe for pie à for Cold
Cold eel eel pie la ménagère, d la minagire, using using described pie dish a pie
dish with with slightly slightly raised raised edges. edges. a CoId eel eel tourte
tourte Rabelais. Rabelais. TOURTE FRoTDE D'ANGUILLE TouRTE FROIDE D'ANcurLLE Cold
RABELAIS -- Bone Bone an an eel, eel, flatten flatten it, put it it, and and put it
into into a a shallow shallow RABELAIS pepper and dish with with salt, salt, pepper
and spices. spices. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with a a few few tabletabledish spoons
white white wine, wine, a little brandy, a litùe brandy, and and olive olive oil.
oil. Leave Leave for for spoons I hOill hour to place. to marinate marinate in in a
a cool cool place. 1 Stuffthe (see FORCEMEAT, eel with with whiting whiting
forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, Stuff the eel Fish forcemeM II) in in alterna
alternate layers with with shelled shelled crayfish crayfish Fish ce layers
forcemeat II) tails, olives olives stuffed stuffed with with anchovy pieces of
anchovy fillets, fillets, and and pieces of trume. truffie. tails, pie pastry
pastry a Line with with pie pie dish a pie dish which which has has slightly
slightly raised raised Line edges. Cover Cover the the pastry with with a a layer
layer of whiting forcemeat of whiting forcemeat edges. parsley. Reshape the mixed
with with chopped chopped parsley. the eel eel and and put it it into into mixed
pie dish. dish. the pie Fill the pie with the middle middle of of the the pie with
small small rolled rolled fillets fillets of of sole, sole, Fill half of of them
them stuffed stuffed with with whiting whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with
half (see BUTTER, Compound Crayfish buller butter (see Compound bUllers), butters),
the other other Crayfish half pur6e of mixed with with a a purée of truffies.
trufres. ha If with whiting forcemeat mixe<! whole a layer of of whiti whiting
forcemeat aux auxfines Cover the w hole with a ng forcemeat fines (see FORCEMEA
herbes (see FORCEMEAT, II). Top Top the the pie herbes T, Fish forcemeat forcemeat
Il). pastry, seal with pastry, seal the the edges, edges, and and decorate decorate
with with pastry eut cut in in with fancy shapes. shapes. Make Make an an opening
in pie to in the pie to allow allow steam to fancy to eseape. Brush Brush with
beaten egg and and bake in a a moderate moderate oven escape. for about about 1 I
hour, hour. Leave get quite quite cold. Leave to to get few cold. Pour Pour in in a
a few for jelly. fish aspic jelly. tablespoons fish la tyrolienne. ANGUillE im
ANGUTLLE À A LA r,l TYROLIENNE rynouENNE Eel à - Cook the describd in the recipe
eel as as described recipe for for Grilled eel mâitre mditre d'hôtel. d'h6tel. eel
Arrange on onafondue tomatoes. Gamish Garnish with onion onion Arrange afondue
(q.v.) of tomatoes. rings fried fried in butter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
parsley. au vert. ANGUTLLEs and divide ANGUILLF_<i AU AU vERT VERT Eels au - Skin 2
eels and into Fry 2 handfuls of spinach leaves, a inlo 5-cm (2-inch) pieces. Fry
few few tarragon leaves, leaves, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) pounded
parsley a pinch of burnet, and a a few few sage leaves in parsley leaves, a pinch
of burnet, and butter. Toss the eel pieces in this mixture 50 g. g. (2 Q oz., t I
cup) butter. for a a few minutes. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper, pepper,
and a small pinch pinch of powdered powdered thyme chyme and and bay leaf. pint,2f,
Cover with 5 dl. (scant (seant pint, 2{ cups) white wine. Bring to the pan, away
away from from the the boil. boil. Simmer, with wilh the the lid lid on the pan,
direct heat, for for l0 10 minutes. Bind with 3 egg yolks and a dash of of lemon
juice. juice. Transfer to an an earthenware dish dish and and keep in a very cold
place. place. in a

EFFERVESCENCE EFFERVESCENCE - The release of gas in a liquid.

EGG.HOLDER. EGG-HOLDER. orurnrm. OEUFRIER

eggs.

Utensil used used for soft-boiling

EGGNOG. LAIr LAIT DE DE pouI,E POULE - Nourishing drink made from pint,2t cups)
sweetened egg yolk mixed t litre (scant pint, mixed with I water or milk, roilk,
flavoured with orange-flower orange-flower water, vanilla, vaniHa, or grated
nutmeg, nutmeg, and laced laced with rum or brandy. brandy. The The Germans Gennans
make make a a beer beer eggnog eggnog which which they they call cali biersuppe.
biersuppe. This This is prepared prepared as follows: Boil Boil 2 2 litres litres
(3{ (31 pints, pints, 4} 4t pints) pints) beer beer with 500 g. (18 (\8 oz., 2|
cups) cups) sugar, sugar, a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, a a little Iittle grated
grated lemon rind rind and a pinch pinch of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Add Add 8 egg
yolks yolks mixed mixed with I 1 tabletablespoon cold milk. milk. Strain and and
chill. chilI. Just before before serving serving add add fried fried black black
bread bread crottons croûtons and 100 100 g. (4 (4 o2.,3 oz., j cup) cup) each of
of raisins raisins and and currants currants which which have have been been cooked
cooked in in 5 5 dl. (scant (scant pint,Zf, pint, 2;\ cups) cups) water water and
and well weil drained. drained.

2t

2*

EGGPLANT EGGPLANT _ - See See AUBERGINE. AUBERGINE. all ail be be used used as as
food. food. Hens' Hens' eggs, eggs, however, however, are are mostly mostly used
used in in cookery, cookery, and and it it is is with with them them that that the
the following following article article mainly mainly deals. dea)s. Eggs Eggs are
are very very nutritious. nutritious. They They are are often often eaten eaten
raw, raw, particularly particularly in in country country districts. districts.
Composition of eggs eggs - The The average average weight weight of of a a hen's
hen's egg egg Composition of
334 334

EGGS. EGGS. oEt/Fs OEUFS - The The eggs eggs of of fish, fish, birds birds and and
even even reptiles reptiles can can
EGGS EGGS
is is 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.). oz.). The The shell sheli weighs weighs about about
12 12 per per cent cent of of the the total weight weight of of the the egg egg and
and is Îs made made of of a a calcareous, calcareous, porous porous total substance
which which is is pervious pervious to to air, air, water, water, and and smells.
smells. It It is is substance lined lined with with a a delicate, delicate,
pellucid pellucid membrane membrane which wruch separates separates itself from
from the the shell shell at at the the larger larger end end of of the the egg egg
to to form form the the itself air air chamber. cham ber. The The size size of of
this this chamber cham ber is is in in inverse inverse proproportion portion to to
the the freshness freshness of of the the egg egg - the the fresher fresher the the
egg egg the the Ostrich, Ostrich, turkey, turkey, peacock peacock and and duck duck
eggs eggs are are bigger bigger than than

chicken chicken eggs; eggs; pigeon, pigeon, guinea-fowl, guinea-fowl, pheasant,

pheasant, partridge, partridge,

smaller the the chamber. chamber. smaller The The albumen, albumen, or or white
white of of the the egg, egg, is is a a thick, truck, viscous, viscous, transparent
liquid, liquid, with with a a high high percentage percentage of of water, water,
and and transparent sorne mineral mineral substances. substances. Albumen Albumen
is is soluble soluble in in cold cold water. water, some congeals congeals at at
70"C. 70°C. (158"F.) (158°F.) and and remains remains from from then then on
insoluble. insoluble. It forms forms about 58 per per cent cent of of the the total
total weight weight of of the egg. egg. the vitellus, or yolk yolk of the the egg
egg (30 (30 per per cent cent of the total The vitellus, is an an opaque, opaque,
soft soft substance substance which which congeals congeals in weight), is heat.
The yolk is is composed of albumins, albumins, fats fats containing containing
heat. vitarnins, lecithins, leci thins, nucleins, nucleins, chlorestins,
chlorestins, and and mineral mineraI vitamins, substances including including a a
ferruginous ferruginous pigment pigment called caUed substances haematogen, which
which gives gives it it its its colour. col our. haematogen, The composition of the
egg varies with the breed of the - the latter also influences influences the
flavour of of the hen and its diet egg. egg. The best best eggs eggs come from
free-range hens, which eat eat the The proportion of grain and and vegetable
vegetable matter. right proportion It DieteticaIly, the the fresh egg egg is is
almost almost a a complete food. food. It Dietetically, fats, Vitamins A, B, B, D
contains easily assimilable proteins, fats, of (only Vitamin C is absent), an
appreciable amount amount of and E (only iron, and a number number of of valuable
mineral minerai salts: magnesium, a minute quantity quantity of calcium, calcium,
sodium, potassium, manganese, minute fluorine, etc. The egg, being chlorine,
iodine, fluorine, being a copper, zinc, chlorine, bearer of life, also contains
precious oligo-elements. The table table below shows that the average egg yolk
weighing (* oz.) g. (1 than the white, 18 times more calories than supplies 6 times
18 g. oz.) supplies (l| oz.). which weighs g. (li weighs 35 g.
EGG AN AVERAGE EGG OF AN COMPOSITION COMPOSITION OF Water Albumen Fats Weight
Weight Water Albumen Fats Shell 7 g. Shell g. 4·5g. White g. 30 35 4.5 e. Og. 0 g.
white 35 g. 30 g. g. 2·9 9 Yolk g. 18 Yolk 9 g. 2'9 g. 5'7 g. l8 g. e. 5·7 e. Whole
g. 39 g. 5'7 g. 7'49. Whole egg egg 60 60 g. 39 g. 5·7 e. 7-4 e.

lapwing, lapwing, plover ployer and and gull gull eggs eggs are are smaller. sm
aller. All Ali these these are are of of a a similar composition except except for
for duck duck and and goose goose eggs, eggs, which which similar composition are
are more more oily. oily. Digestibility Digestibility of of eggs eggs - Soft-boiled
Soft-boiled eggs, eggs, poached poached eggs, eggs, and and eggs eggs en en cocotte
cocotte are are easily easily digested, digested, unless unless served served with
with a a heavy heavy garnish garnish such such as/oie as foie gras, gras, trufles,
truffies, mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. The The same same applies appIies to to
omelettes omelettes and and scramblod scrambled eggs, eggs, although although
these, these, even ev en without without a a garnish, garnish, are are not not as
as easily easily digested digested as as those those mentioned mentioned above.
above. Fried Fried eggs eggs are are fairly fairly digestible digestible if if they
they are are not not over over browned browned in in the the butter butter or or
fat fat in in which which they they are are cooked. cooked. Hard-boiled Hard-boiled
eggs eggs take take longer longer to to digest digest than than any any of of the
the others. A hard-boiled egg egg cut cut into into very very small small fragments
fragments is is A hard-boiled more more easily easily digested. digested. The The
average average diet diet should should not not contain contain more more than than
2 2 or or 3 3 eggs weekly (in (in whatever whatever form form they they are are
served) served) and and these these should preferably preferably be be eaten eaten
at at the the midday midday meal. meal. Freshness Freshness of of eggs eggs - A A
fresh fresh egg egg is is heavy. heavy. When When shaken, shaken, it it should
should feel feel well-filled. weU-filled. As As the the shell shell is is porous,
porous, the the water water egg evaporates. which which encloses the the inner
inner part part of of the the egg evaporates. An An egg egg gauge It is easy to
day. It every day. loses a a tiny tiny fraction fraction in in weight weight every
is easy to gauge cent the the freshness of of an an egg by by plunging plunging it
it into into a a 12 12 per per cent If the egg is salted water solution of of
salted water (kitchen (kitchen salt). salt). If the egg is very very a the water.
once to fresh, at once fresh, it it falls falls at to the the bottom bottom of of
the water. If If it it is is a This method on top. If it is few days old it it
floats. Ifit is bad bad it it floats floats on top. This method and water and in
water been preserved does not apply to eggs that that have have been preserved in
or other liquid. limestone, or Iiquid. exclusion preserved by by the Eggs are are
preserved eggs Preservation of eggs Preservation the exclusion - Eggs solution in a
a proprietary dipped in can either be of air. air. They can of be dipped
proprietary solution waterof waterin a a solution solution of submerged in or kept
kept submerged stored, or and then stored, and Eggs not be used for for boiliog.
boiling. Eggs glass. Preserved eggs be used eggs should should not glass. powder.
preserved by desiccation into powder. can also be be preserved desiccation into
DE CUISSON DEs OEUFS oEUFS rrt6rsooEs DE culssoN DES DISHES. MÉTHODES BASIC EGG EGG
DISHES. BASIC should be be used. used. fresh eggs eggs should only fresh In cooking
cooking and and baking, baking, only ln (hard). OEUFS the eggs eggs into into a a
DURS Plunge the oEUFs DURS Boiled eggs eggs (hard). BoUed - Plunge l0 minutes,
minutes, according according pan of boiling 8 to to JO for 8 water and and boil
boil for boiling water pan to size. to under a a cold cold in co or under water or
stand in cold Drain the the eggs eggs and and stand Drain Id water recipe. to the
the recipe. hot or cold, according according to or cold, use hot and use tap. Peel
Peel them them and tap. into a (soft). OEUFS Plunge the the eggs eggs into a
MoLLErs -- Plunge eggs (soft). oEUFs MOLLETS Boiled eggs BoUed minutes. Shell them
pan of to 4 4 minutes. Shell them Boil for for 3 3 to water. Boil of boiIing
boiling water. pan pan of hot salted salted of hot warn in in a a .(jan keep warm
and keep under cold cold water water and under until serving. serving. water until
water

Salts Calories Calories Salts

0.25 g. 0'25g. 0'25 g. 0·25g. 0'509. 0·50g.

l0 e. lOg. 63 g. e. 73g. 73g.

M. Alquier Alquier tables of of M. From the the tables From

of salted per cent solution plunge itinto solution ofsalted intoaa12 12percent To
test test the the freshnessofan freshness of anegg, egg,plungeit To floats daysold
old floats Anegg2 bottom;An water: A fallsat atonce onceto totbe the bottom; Afresb
freshegg eggfalls water: egg 2 days ontop top floatson 2-week old oldegg eggfloats
A2-week risesto tothe thesurface; surface;A midway; An Anegg4 egg 4daysold days
oldrises midway;
33s 335
EGGS EGGS

Boiled Boiled eggs eggs and and garnished garnished eggs eggs en en cocotte cocolle
((Robert Carrier) Robert Carrier)

336 336
EGGS EGGS
Drain the t'he eggs eggs and and garnish garnish them, them, or serve with with
sauce, sauce, Drain according to to the the recipe. recipe. Soft-boiled eggs eggs
are are served served and according garnished garnished in in the the same same way
way as poached poached eggs. Eggs en en cocottg cocotte, cassolettes cassolettes or
or caissettes. caissettes. oEUFS OEUFS EN Eggs COCOTTE - This way way of of
preparing preparing eggs is a combination of cocorrE and poached eggs d à la la
coque coque (see below) below) and poached eggs (see below). eggs Warrn small smali
round round or or oval oval dishes, made made of of china, earthenWarm ware, metal,
metal, or fireproof fireproof glass. glass. Butter the dishes, dishes, or coat
ware, with a pur6e, purée, according according to the recipe. Use Use I 1 or 2 eggs
eggs for with each dish. dish. each oyen, in a pan half-filled half-filled with
water. Place the the dishes dishes in the oven, Place Leave for 6 to to 8 minutes,
according according to the number of eggs Leave oven. when taking them from the
oyen. in each dish. Salt the eggs when of the dishes. Place thern them on a flat
fiat dish. Clean the outside of au naturel naturel or garnished. garnished. Serve
az m COQUE Eggs d à la coque @oited (boiled in their shells). OEUFS À LA coQue
oEUFs A Leave a a First method. Plunge Plunge the the egg egg into boiling boiling
water. water. Leave First method. mediurn-sized egg for 3 minutes, a larger one,
seconds 30 seconds one, 30 a larger medium-sized longer. Second method. method.
Plunge the eggs eggs into boiling water. water. Boil 1 minute. minute. Remove from
the the heat, heat, and the hot in the and leave in for I water for 3 3 minutes.
water Third method. Coyer in a a saucecold water in Cover the eggs with cold from
the the saucepan pan. Bring them to the boil boil and and remove from as soon as as
the water is boiling. as pans, for Fourth method. for 3 special pans, in special
the eggs, eggs, in Fourth method. Steam Steam the minutes. The times given above
can be to taste. taste. be varied according to
(q.v.), on croustades (q.v.), on round croustades or round can also be served on
tartlets tartiets or recipe chosen. chosen. Garnish Garnish in the recipe or as as
shown in artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, or a sui suitable and serve with a
table sauce. Either simple or fluted fiuted moulds mou Ids can be used.

Omelette Omelette

Fried Fried egg egg and and bacon bacon

Fried 2 methods. methods. FRIrs -- There There are are 2 eggs. OEUFS oEUFS FRITS
Fried eggs. Fried. plenty of fat, oil, or butter. butter. oil, or of fat, at a a
time time in in plenty Fried. Cook Cook 1 I egg egg at The yolk. should coyer cover
the the yolk. The white white should Sautéed. pan with on fat, oil, oil, or or
butter, butter, on with fat, a frying frying pan Sautied. Cook Cook in in a 1
plate. onto a a dish dish or or plate. I side and tum turn onto side or or both,
both, and Heat pan. Use the egg egg let the enough to to let frying pan. Use enough
Heat oil oil in a smaU small frying in a fioat. with salt. salt.Siide Slide season
with and season into a a cup cup and float. Break Break the the egg egg into it
yolk with with aa white round round the the yolk and draw draw the the white it
into into the the hot hot oil oil and wood en spoon seal it. it. wooden spoon to to
seal Drain garnish as for each each recipe. recipe. shown for as shown Drain the
the eggs eggs and and garnish Eggs to the the dish belongs belongs to uourEs --
This This dish in a a mould. ortrFs MOULÉS mould. OEUFS Eggs in grande prepared at
home. grande cuisine, at home. easily be be prepared cuisine, but but can can
easily Coat Add with butter. butter. Add dariole moulds moulds with insides of of
dariole the insides Coat the chopped recipe. parsley, ham, to the the recipe. ham,
truffies, truffies, etc. etc. according according to chopped parsley, Ids. Break
lined mou moulds. Break the the eggs eggs into into the the lined Cook in the the
Leave in for 88 to 12 minutes. minutes. Leave to 12 in aa bain-marie bain-marie for
Cook in moulds out. taking out. minutes before before taking for aa few few minutes
moulds for Place Moulded eggs eggs toasted bread. bread. Moulded or toasted of
fried fried or on slices slices of Place on 337 337
prepare an than an omelette omelette than to prepare difficult to It is is less
less difficult Omelette Omelette -- lt points: following points: the foIlowing
observe the For success, success, observe it it seems. seems. For high. be very
very high. The The fiame flame must must be pan, in else nothing else in which
which nothing frying pan, clean frying Use obsolutely cIean Use an an obsolutely is
cooked. is ever ever cooked. moment. last moment. only at at the the last lightly
and and only Beat the eggs eggs lightly Beat the fat. butter or or fat. much butter
Do Do not not use use too too much yourself. in yourself. Have Have confidence
confidence in quantities. people use For the following following quantities. use
the 4 people For 4 ground freshly ground salt and and freshly with salt Lightly
Season with beat 8 8 eggs. eggs. Season Lightly beat pepper. pepper. pan frying pan
in the (ll oz., butter in the frying g. (11o2.,3 tablespoons) butter Heat 3
tablespoons) Heat 35 35 g. Mix with fork. with aa fork. a high high fiame. flame.
Mix over a and Cook over add the the eggs. eggs. Cook and add Fold evenly cooked.
cooked. Fold pan so is evenly the omelette omelette is Shake so that that the Shake
the the pan quick movement, movement, I quick down with with 1 it upside down it
upside and tum tum it it over over once once and onto dish. warmed dish. onto a a
warmed the sauce from from the serve with with aa sauce and serve Garnish the
omelette omelette and Garnish the section. omelette this section. recipes in in
this omelette recipes pocufs -- FiIl pan with with salted salted Fill aa pan
Poached eggs. OEUFS oEUFs POCHÉS Pooched eggs. (scant quart, quart, generous
generous litre (scant water salt to to 1I litre lj teaspoons teaspoons salt water
-- It boil. Bring to to the theboil. vinegar. Bring quart) quart) water. Add 1I
tablespoon tablespoon vinegar. water. Add itis is thespot spot where where it on
the Break liquid exactly exactly on into the the liquid the eggs eggs into Break
the gently for bubbling. for 33minutes. minutes. Simmer gently bubbling. Simmer
each skimmer. Put Puteach Drain withaaskimmer. time, with oneat ataa time, Drain
the the eggs, eggs, one removing theeggs eggs by byremoving one Trim the fresh
water. water. Trim into fresh separatelyinto one separately (with fresh hardly be
necessary). the be necessary). thisshould should hardly fresh eggs eggsthis the
blisters blisters (with are until they they are Leave hot, salted salted water
water until dish of of hot, thern in in aadish Leave them served. served. or
toasted toasted fried or Drain themon onfried theeggs. eggs.Place Place them and
dry dry the Drain and slices can also also be be recipe. They Theycan to the
therecipe. bread,according according to slicesof of bread, rice,semolina, semolina,
served bedof ofrice, onaabed oron intartlets, tartlets,or croustades,in served on
on croustades, potatoes, potatoes, artichoke hearts, etc. etc. artichoke hearts,
Garnish tothe therecipe recipe according to sauceaccording cover with withaasauce
and coyer Garnishand chosen. chosen. Scrambled scrambled snou[r6s - - WeIl-made
Well-made scrambled eggs. OEUFS oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs. eggs care- cookod
with withcare should be becooked theyshould delicious, but but they aredelicious,
eggsare garnishedin they in canbe begarnished Theycan and creamy. creamy.They
smooth and theymust must be besmooth various various ways. ways. people. First
quantities for for44people. thefollowing following quantities Firstmethod. Usethe
method. Use Me1t cup) butter panwith fryingpan withaa (2oz., smallfrying g.(2
inaasmaII butterin Melt50 oz., i.up) 50g. heavy beat eggsand andbeat Break88eggs
smallsaucepan. saucepan. Break oraasmall heavybottom, bottom, or

±
EGGS EGGS
together lightly, lightly, as as for for an an omelette. omelette. Scason Season
them them and and add add together to the the butter pan. Cook butter in in the the
pan. over a Cook over a low low heat, heat, stirring stirring to constantly with
with a wooden a wood constantly en spoon. When the the eggs are are cooked, remove
them from the stove When g. (2 oz., and add add 50 50 g. cup) butter, pieces. Mîx
oz., ibutter, eut cut into into small small pieces. Mix f cup) and well and and
keep keep hot hot in in a a bain-marie bain-marie until until serving. serving.
well Garnish according according to to the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen.
Garnish Second method. method. Use Use Cla double double saucepan. saucepan. Half-
till Half-fill the the Second pan with bottom pan with warm wann water. water. Cook
Cook eggs eggs and and buller butter in in the the hottom pan, stirring smaller
pan, stirring with a wooden wooden spoon. with a spoon. smaller When the the eggs
eggs are are cooked, cooked, add little more add a a tiule more buller, butter, eut
cut When pieces. into small small pieces. into 2 or or 3 3 tab!espoons tablespoons
fresh fresh cream cream can can be be added added to to 2 scrambled eggs eggs after
after they are are cooked. cooked. scrambled They can can be be served served in
small small or (q.v.) or large large crous/ades croustades (q.v.) They puff pastry;
in made from from puff (q.v.) made tn timbales timbales (q.v.) made from plain from
plain made pastry; in in cassolettes (q.v.); in in hollowed-out hollowed-out
vegelables; vegetables; or or pie dishes. in metal metal or or china china pie pulr
-- For Eggs sur plat, or le plat, sur Je or shirred shirred eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEUFs
SUR srJR LE LE PLAT Eggs this simple simple way way of of cooking eggs special
dîshes dishes are are used, used, this which are are eitber either for for
individual portions (J (l or or 2 eggs) eggs) or or for which cooking severa!
several al at once. once. cooking For Iwo two eggs eggs coat coat the the dish dish
with with t tablespoon butter. butter. Heat Heat For I tab!espoon on the the stove.
stove. Break Break the the eggs into into the pour melted the dish dish and and
pour melted on butter on on the the yolks. Cook in the the oven oven for for as as
long long as as is is Iiked liked butter and when when ready, sprinkle sprinkle
with with fine fine salt. salt. and Garnish or or cover cover with with a a sauce
sauce according according 10 to the the instrucGarnish given alphabetically tions
given alphabetically below. below. tions Ambassadrice eggs 1 (soft-boiled or I
(soft-boiled poached), OEUFS or poached). oEUFs croustades puff pastry pastry and
with putf and 0 uSlades (q.v.) with - Make cr garnish with (q.v.) of truffies and
with a a salpicon (q.v.) gras, blended andfoie blended garnish foie gras, with
concentrated Demi-glace sauce (se SA sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured with UCE)
flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. Put Put the the caoked cooked eggs eggs on on the
the croustades croustades and and with mask them (see SA them with with Suprême
Supr€me sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish with with mask UCE). Garnish asparagus
tips blended blended with with butter. butter. (en cocotte). Ambassadrice eggs n tr
(en cocotte). OEUFS orurs AMBASSADRICE AMBAssADRTcE -Line the gras purée the
cocolles (see PURÉE) cocottes with Foie Foie gras purie (see PUREE) and and Line
sprinkle with with chopped choppod truffies. trufres. Break Break the the eggs eggs
into into the the lined lined sprinkle dishes and cook in and cook in a a bain-
marie. bain-marre. When When the the eggs eggs are are cooked, cooked, dishes
garnish with take them them out, out, garnish with asparagus tips, and and surround
surround take the yolk with with Suprême (see SAUCE) 10 SuprAme sauce sauce (sec to
which which sherry sherry the
AMBAssADRrcr AMDASSADRICE

has been added. added. has Ambassadrice eggs

Cook the eggs rur Ie plat in the usual way. When ready,
garnish with a salpicon of foie gras, truffies, and asparagus tips. Surround with
Supr€me sauce (se SAUCE) with sherry added. (soft-boiled or Amdlie eggs 1 I (soft-
boiled or poached). OEUFS oErrFs AMÉLŒ ltrafrre -Arrange the eggs on puff pastry
croustades garnished with a a (q.v.) of vegetables fine mirepoÎx mirepolx (q.v.)
vegetables (cooked in in butter butter unti! until fine they are are soft) soft)
and and with with Madeira Madeira wine pan wine poured into into the the pan they
the vegetables have been taken taken out. out. after the Mask the eggs eggs with a
(se SAUCE). a Cream sauce (see Crearn sauce SAUCE). Garnish Garnish in cream. with
morels cooked în (srr le Am6lie eggs n tr (sur le plat). OEUFS l.rr,rfrn onurs
AMÉLŒ Cook the the eggs Amélie - Cook in ovenproof ovenproof dishes dishes on on a
a mirepoix mirepoix of of vegetables vegetables with in Madeira. Garnish with
morels cooked cooked in cream. Madeira. (frid). OEUFS Eggs n l'am6ricaine I
(fried). oEr.rFs À A L'AMÉRICAINE r.'lufnrcArNE -Eggs à l'américaine 1 Fry the the
eggs in butter. Gamish Garnish with 2 slices slices grilled or fried grilled
tomato. bacon and j grilled tomato. Eggs i l'am6ricaine l'lunp~';'''lIi....,, tr Il
(soft-boiled (wft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS onurs À A r'lqufnrcalxr - Arrange
the cooked eggs on fried eggs on fried bread or croustades. Garnish with pieces of
Lobster (or spiny lobster) h I'amdricaine (see LOBSTER). Pour Amiricaine (see
Américaine sauce (see SAUCE) over the eggs. (urr le platf oEUFs Eggs t Pam6ricaine
Itr (sur OEUFS A .À. r'AlafnrcarNs L'AM:ÉRICAINE (or sprny eggs onto 2 pieces of
Lobster Lobsler (or spiny lobster) lobsler) h à - Break 2 eg$ l'amiricaine
l'américaine (see LOBSTER) AT~C'-"'Ln in a buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Bake
wth Amdricaine in the the oven. oven. Surround Surround with Amhîcaine sauce sauce
(see (see Bake in

III (sr le le plat).

oBuFs AMBAssADRTcE

EGG DISHES. rrs DrvERs APPRÊTS eppnfrs D'oEUFs. LES DlVERS D'OEUFS. EGG D1SHES.
Eggs i l'africaine I'africaine (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS orurs À A Eggs à
L'AFRIcATNE Arrange the cooked eggs in a circle on a layer L'AFRICA1NE·- Arrange
(q.v.). of couscous couscous (q.v.). of Peel and and dîce dice aubergines, oil and
saut6 them and add add to the Peel aubergines, sauté them in in oil ring. ring.
Peel and dîœ dice swee! sweet peppers and cook cook in a consommé. consomm6. Peel
and peppers and in a (sen SAUCE), Make Tomato sauce sauce (see peppers and SAUCE),
add add the and Make a a Tomato the peppers pour over the it over the eggs. eggs.
pour it Bggs i l'agenaise Eggs il l'agellsise (sur le le plat). plat). orurs OEUFS
A A r'^lceN.qJss L'AGENAISE Saut6 chopped Sauté chopped onions onions in goose
goose fat. fat. When When cooked, cooked, add add garlic garlic and of and chopped
chopped parsley. parsley. Cook Cook the the eggs eggs ru," sur le le plat plat on
on a a bed bed of this this onion onion mixture. mixture. Garnish sautEed in
Garnish with with peeled, peeled, diced diced aubergines, aubergines, sautéed in
goose goose fat. fat. Aladdin AJaddin eggs I (sur le le ptat). plat). onurs OEUFS
ALADTN ALADIN ~ Bake Bake the eggs in ln ovenproof OV(!nr:lfOI:l1 dishes on on a a
foundation foundation of of onions onions saut6ed in butter butter until until
soft. soft. Garnish Swee/ peppers peppers d à l'orientale l'orien/ale (see (see
PEPPERS) Garnish with with Sweet and and saffron-flavoured saffron-flavoured
Risotto Risotto (see RICE). RICE). Surround Surround with with a a border border of
of Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Aladdin Aladdin eg$ tr Il (soft-
boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). l'U~I\;'''<::U)' oErrFS OEUFS ALADTN ALADIN
Arrange Arrange the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in a a circle on on a a layer layer
of of saffronsaffronflavoured Risotto (see flavoured Risollo (see RICE). RICE).
Garnish Garnish with with Sweet Swee/ peppers peppers d à I'orientale l'orienlale
(see (sec PEPPERS) PEPPERS) and and mask mask the the eggs with with Tomato Tomato
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) spiced spiced pinch with with a a pinch of
cayenne. Eggs Eggs A à I'alsacienne l'alsacienne I 1 (fried). oEUFs A r',tlslcrENNE
Arrange Arrange the the fried fried eggs eggs on On a a layer of of braised braised
sauerkraut, sauerkraul, alternating them them with with slices slices of of ham.
ham. Surround Surround with with a a border border (see of Demi-glace
1Je,ml-.flla,~e sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs Eggs i I'alsacienne II Il
(soft-boiled or or poached). orurs OEUFS A À L'ALSAcTENNE L'ALSACIENNE - Arrange
Arrange the cooked eooked eggs eggs in a a dish on on a a layer layer of of braised
braised sauerkraut. sauerkraut. Garnish Garnish with wilh thin Ihin slices sJices
of of cooked cooked ham. ham. Cover Cover with wlth Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Eggs ila I'alsacienne ,'alsacienne III (srr le plat). oEUFs OEUFS A À
r',trslctnNNE L'ALSACIENNECook the eggs eggs ral sur le le plat piaf in goose go
ose fat. Garnish Garnish with with I1tabletablespoon spoon braised braised
sauerkraut sauerkraut and and a a slice slice of of ham. ham. Surround Surround
with with a a border border of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE). SA UCE).
338 338

sAUCE). SAUCE). Anchovy Anchory eggs eggs 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or

poached). poached). onurs OEUFS lux AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOIS - Arrange Arrange the the
cooked eggs on bread fried fried in butter butter on both sides, or on puffpastry
croustades. puff Mask Mask with Anchovy Anchovy Sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Garnish
Garnish each each egg egg with with a desalted desalted anchovy fillet. Anchovy
Anchovy eggs eggs tr Il (mr (sur le plat). plat). orurs OEUFS Ar.x AUX ANcHors
ANCHOIS - Desalt Desalt and and dice I 1 anchovy per per egg. Put PUI them Ihem
into into a buttered buUered ovenovenproof dish and break break the eggs onto onlO
them. Cook Cook in in the the oven oven and decorate decorate with with more more
anchovy fillets. fillels. Anchory Al1chovy eggs eggs Itr m (frid). (fried). oEr.rFs
OEUFS Arrx AUX ANcHorsANCHOIS - Fry Fry the the eggs eggs in oil. Arrange Arrange
each each one one on an oval piece piece of of bread, bread, fried in butter butter
on on both both sides. sides. Garnish Garnish with with anchovy ancbovy fillets,
tillets, arranged criss-cross. criss-cross. Sprinkle with with Norette Noiselle
butter buller (see (see BUTTER,

L'ANcTENNE L'ANCIENNE -

Eggs Eggs ià l'ancienne l'ancienne I 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached).

poached). oBurs OEUFS A A Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on 00 a a mound
mound of of rice, ri ce, - Arrange cooked cooked in in meat meat stock. stock.
Cover Coyer with with Veloute Veloute saucd saucé (see (see SAUCE). julienne (q.v.)
of of truffiesblended truffles blended SA U CE). Put Put Il teaspoonof teaspoon
ofjulimre with with thick thick Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE)
between the the eggs. Eggs Eggs ià I'ancienne l'ancienne tr n (cold). (cold). oEr-
rFs OEUFS A r'.lNcreNxs L'ANCIENNE- Mask soft-boiled soft-hoiled eggs eggs or or
poached poached eggs cggs with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce (sec
SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been becn added. added.
sauce (see Decorate Decorate with wilh truffies truffles and and glaze glaze with
with jelly. jelly. Serve Serve in in a a dish dish lined lined with with a a layer
layer of of chicken chîcken jelly. jelly. Separate Separate the the eggs eggs with
with slices slices of of pickled pickled tongue tongue cut eut into into flutd
fluted half-circles. half-circles. Cover Cover with with thin thin jelly. jelly.
Add Add chopped chopped jelly jeUy

Compound Compound butters). bUllers).

EGGS EGGS
to to the the middle middle of ofthe the dish. dish. Keep Keep cold cold until
until serving' serving. Eggp ià l'andalouse le plat). plat). onurs OEUFS A À
t'itNpAtousn L'ANDALOUSEl'andalouse I1(srr le the eggs eggs rrr sur le le plat in
in oil oil in in a a dish dish which which has has been been Cook the rubbed rubbed
with with garlic. garlic. Peel and and dice dice sweet sweet peppers peppers and
and cook cook them in in oil. oil. Add Add them them to to Tomato Tomato fondue
fondue (see (see FONDUE) FONDUE) them and garnish the the eggs eggs with with the
the mixture. mixture. and à I'andalouse l'andalouse tr II (frid). (fTied). oEUFs
OEUFS A À t'lNoAl-ousn L'ANDALOUSE - Fry Fry Eggs n the eggs eggs in in oil. oil.
Arrange Arrange alternately alternately with with grilled grilled tomatotomatothe
halves in in the the shape shape of of a a crown. crown. halves Garnish with with
sweet sweet peppers peppers and and onion onion rings rings fried fried in in oil.
oil. Garnish l'anglaise I1(srr (sur le le plat). orurs OEUFS A À t'enctusr
L'ANGLAISE - Break Break Eggs ià I'anglaise Eggs 2 eggs eggs over over a a slice
slice of of grilled bacon bacon in in a a buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof 2
dish. Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. dish. tr (fried). oEUFs l''''·· ... I<·;-
ll OEUFS A À L'lt'tcLllsn L'ANGLAISE - Fry Fry the the Eggs il l'anglaise eggs
butter. Cut them them with a a round round biscuit-cutter, biscuit-cutter, leaving
leaving eggsin white round onlya thin rim rim of ofwrute round the the yolk. yolk.
Arrange Arrange on on rounds rounds a thin only of bread, bread, toasted, toasted,
or or fried fried in in butter. butter. of Surround with with veal veal stock, or
or serve serve the the stock stock separately' separately. Surround Eggs ià
I'antiboise. l'antiboise. oEUFs OEUFS A À L'.qsrlnotsn L'ANTIBOISE - Roll Roll 4 4
tableEggs in flour, ftour, and and saut6 sauté in in butter. butter. spoons (* cup)
nonats (q.v.) in are brown, brown, add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon diced diced
Gruydre Gruyère When they are
cheese and a little garlic. cheese Break 4 eggs eggs into ioto the same same pan
and cook them them in the oven. Break

Mask the ARGENTEUIL Argenteuil Argenteuil eggs eggs IV IV (cold). (cold). oEUFs
OEUFS ARGENTEUIL - Mask the sauce (see soft-doiled soft-boiled or or poached
poached eggs eggs with with a a Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce (see tips and glaze
SAUCE). SAUCE). Decbrate Decorate with with green green asparagus asparagus tips
and glaze jelly. with aspic with with Make atips seasoned seasoned with a salad of
of white white asparagus tips on a dish with jellied Mayonnaise (see (see SAUCE).
Arrange on a dish with jellied Mayonnaise and eggs eggs and chopped chopped aspic
aspic in in the the middle. middle. -Armenonville poached)' oEUFs, OEUFS
Armenonville eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or on oval pieces of eggs cooked the
Arrange ARMENoNvILLc of ARMENONVILLE the cooked Mask with toast toast made made
from from unsweetened unsweetened brioche dough.

with chopped dish' Sprinkle with Turn upside down onto a hot dish.
parsley. parsley.

oruns À A or poached). Eggs n à I'anversoise l'anversoise 1 (soft-boiled or

poached). OEUFS Eggs fried in in on bread bread fried eggs on cooked eggs the
cooked L'ANVERSOISE - Serve Serve the L'Al.rvERsoIsE cooked in in shoots cooked hop
shoots with hop butter on both sides. Garnish with sides. Garnish on both butter
(see sauce (see Suprdme sauce or Suprême sauce or Cream butter. Mask Mask with am
sauce with Cre butter.
SAUCE). sAUCE). A L'ANVERSOISE L'^lNvnnsotsn -ptat). OEUFS oEUFs À Eggs à tr (sur
le plat). I'anversoise II i l'anversoise shoots hop shoots I tablespoon tablespoon
hop with 1 eggs with Garnish the cooked cooked eggs Garnish the of a border border
of with a Surround with cooked cream. Surround or cream. in butter butter or cooked
in boiling cream. APIcrus -poached). OEUFS oELrFs APICIUS (soft-boiled or or
poached). eggs (soft-boiled Apicius eggs with grilled mushrooms. Garnish with
mushrooms. Garnish Serve on grilled cooked eggs on the cooked Serve the (see
CRAYFISH). Mask Mask Nantua (see Crayfish it la la Nantua ragoftt à tail ragoût
Crayfish tail (see SAUCE). Put I tabletablethe sauce (see Normande sauce with
Normande the eggs eggs with spoon truffies cooked in butter, made from from
truffles a salpicon, salpicora, made of a spoon of between each each egg. egg.
ARcHIDUc poached). OEUFS oEUFs ARCHIDUC (soft-boiled or or poached). Archduke I
(soft-boiled eggp 1 Archituke eggs on both both in butter butter on fried in on
bread bread fried eggs on cooked eggs the cooked Arrange the - Arrange with Suprême
SuprAme Coat with sides, of puff pastry. Coat or on on croustades croustades of
sides, or onion chopped onion and chopped (see SAUCE) sauce to which paprika and
SAUCE) to sauce (see diced with diced Garnish with cooked been added. Garnish have
been in butter butter have cooked in truffies in butter. butter. saut6od in
truffies sautéed the Break the (sur le ARcHIDUc -- Break Archduke le plat). OEUFS
onurs ARCHIDUC tr (sur eggs II ArcHuke eggs which onions which with chopped onions
eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with with paprika' and seasoned Wit:l in butter
butter and hive been been softened in in truffies cooked in diced truffies Cook
with diced and garnish with in the the oven oven and Cook in (seeSAUCE) seasoned
SAUCE) seasoned butter. sauce (see with Supr4me sauce butter. Surround Surround
with with paprika. with paprika. ARGENoEUFs ARGENpoachcl).OEUFS Argenteuil (soft-
boiled or or poached). eg5 1I (soft-boiled Argentanil eggs friedin in piecesof
bread fried TEUIL - Arrange of bread eggs on on pieces cooked eggs thecooked
Arrange the reulfbutter pastry croustades. puffpastry croustadesor on onpuff sides,
or on both both sides, butter on (see PUREE), to to purie (see Mask asparagus purée
Whiteasparagus with White Mask with the in the added in which (seeSAUCE) hasbeen
been added SAUCE) has Velouti sauce sauce (see which Velouté tips asparagustips
proportion white asparagus withwhite Garnish with to l,l. Garnish proportion of of
33 to cooked inbutter. butter. cooked in Break Argenteuil ARGENTEUIL - -Break
(srrle plat). OEUFS onursARGENTEUIL leplat). tr(sur eggF II Argentanil eggs
tablespoon the with 1I tablespoon dishwith ovenproof dish butteredovenproof
intoaabuttered the eggs eggsinto asparagus fresh whiteasparagus with white
Garnishwith oven.Garnish inthe theoven. Cookin freshcream. cream. Cook tips butter.
cookedin inbutter. tipscooked Irine Argenteuil (srrle ptat).OEUFS ARGENTEUIL - -
Line orurs ARGENTEUIL leplat). Itr(sur eggsID Argenteuil eggs (seePURÉE). purte(see
PUREE). an Whiteasparagus asparagus purée withWhite dishwith anovenproof ovlnproof
dish Break oven. inthe theoven. Cook in it.Cook intoil. the eggsinto Breakthe
butter. inbutter. cooked in tipscooked Garnish with green asparagus tips (seSAUCE).
SAUCE). sauce(see Surround with Velouti sauce ot Cream sauce
339 339

added' Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which sherry
sherry has been asparagus Garnish Garnish with with small small carrots carrots
cooked cooked in in cream, cream, and and asparagus tips saut6ed sautéed with with
butter. butter. poached). oEUFs AUBER Stuff Auber eggs eggs I 1 (soft-boiled (soft-
boiled or or "--'--'--r OEUFS AUBER - Stuff FORCEwith Chicken forcemeal (see halved
halved tomatoes tomatoes with (see FORCEon cooked egg MEAT) MEA T) mixed mixed with
with chopped chopped truffies. Put Put 1 1 cooked egg on each each half. half.
flavoured (se SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured Mask Mask the the eggs eggs with with Velouti
Velouté sauce sauce (see of truffies truffies a iulienne with a with with tomato
tomato paste paste and and finished finished with julienne of sherry. in cooked
cooked in sherry. eggs with a the eggs Mask the AUBER (cold). OEUFS onurs AUBER
Auber - Mask Auber eggs eggs tr II (cold). with a Tomato which Tomato (see SAUCE)
to which SAUCE) ta sauce (see White chaud-froid White chaudlroid sauce with
Decorate added' (see ESSENCE) been added. Decorate with ESSENCE) has essence has
been essence (see jellY. glaze with with jelly. and glaze truffies truffies and of
breast of diced breast with diced fill with and fill tomatoes and some tomatoes out
sorne Hollow out Hollow with made with mayonnaise made with mayonnaise bound with
trufres bound and truffies chicken and chicken tomato' each tomato. egg on on each
or poached egg I soft-boiled soft-boiled or gelatine. Put Put 1 gelatine. jelly.
with jelly, and garnish with a crown, crown, and in a Arrange in Arrange AUBERAlrx
AUBERplat). OEUFS oEUFS AUX le plat). aubergines I (2r le with aubergines Eggs with
Eggs aubergines diced aubergines with diced dish with ovenproof dish the ovenproof
Line the cINns -- Line GINES and the aubergines, aubergines' and onto the eggs onto
the eggs Break the butter. Break in butter. saut6ed in sautéed plat. le plat. sar
le for eggs sur way for usual way in the the usual cook in cook AUx AUBERGINES
AUBERGINES oEUFs AUX tr (frid). OEUFS with aubergines II Eggs with in oil. Arrange
thern in a ring alternating.with eggs in Fryihe eggs Fry with and fried in oil, or
grilled' lengthwise and cut lengthwise of aubergine, au-bergine, eut sliies of
slices fried parsleY. with fried Garnish with Garnish poached)' (soft-boiled or or
poached). sicilienne (soft-boiled la sicilienne with aubergines I la Eggs with Eggs
aubergines the aubergines cut the A LA LA SICILIENNE SICILIENNE -- Cut AUBERGINES À
Ar-Ix AUBERGINES oEUFS AUX OEUFS leave to to and leave pulp. Salt them and Salt
them the pulp. Score the half in ha in If lengthwise. Score oil. in ail. Fry in for
I hour. Fry sweat for sweat the dry the and dry skins and the skins tearing the
pulp without without tearing the pulp Remove the Remove Mornay of Mornay volume of
its volume twice its with twice Mix it it with stove. Mix pulp on on the the stave.
pulp the aubergines aubergineswith of the bottoms of the bottoms (seeSAUCE). Coat
Coat the iauie (see sauce with half' each half. poached egg to toeach pur6e. Add I
poached Add 1 of this purée. I tablespoon tablespoon of 1 the eggs eggs gratin dish
cover the dish and cover buttered gratin in aa buttered thern in Arrange them
Arrange been hasbeen cream bas fresh cream which fresh to which with the the
remaining pur6e, to with oven. hot oven. inaahot Brown in cheese. Brown Sprinkle
with grated cheese. added.Sprinkle added. buttered Lineaabuttered AUGIER - - Line
orurs AUGIER eggs (sur le plat). OEUFS Augiei eggs chervil. and chopped chervil.
distr wittr aa pur6e made of sweetbreads and dish with aa the yolkswith Surround
the the pur6e. Surround onto the the eggs eggs onto Break the Break oven. theoven.
Bake inthe cream.Bake fresh cream. ringof offresh ring AL'AURORE t'luRonr -
poached).OEUFS oEUFsÀ (soft-boiledor orpoached). eggs1I(soft-boiled Aurora eggs
Aurora inbutter butter friedin piecesof breadfried ofbread onpieces eggson cooked
eggs thecooked Arrange the Arrange with Maskthem them with pastrycruustades. puff
pastry croustades.Mask onpuff oron sides,or bothsides, onboth on hardwithchopped
chopped hardSprinklewith SAUCE). Sprinkle sauce (seeSAUCE). Aurora sauce Aurora
(seo SAUCE)' sauce(see Tomatosauce withTomato Surroundwith egg yolks.Surround
boiledegg boiled SAUCE). t'AURonE otrnÀAL'A onursDUR (strfre{ hard-boiled). OEUFS
tr(stuffed, eggsII Auroraeggs Aurora URORE the Removethe eggs lengthwise. Remove
hard-boiledeggs thehard-boiled Cutthe FARcIs - - Cut FARCIS of weightof yolks
withan anequal equalweight theyolks ofthe thirdsof yolks.Mix Mix two twothirds
yolks. and Seasonand butter.Season (seeSAUCE) andbutter. SAUCE)and sauce(see
nethomel sauce ihick Béchamel thick heaping mixture, heaping thismixture, withthis
eggswith theeggs Stuffthe herbs.Stuff chopped herbs. addchopped add dome.
intoaadome. ititinto the eggs on a gratin dish masked with Mornay Arrangethe
Arrange (sie SAUCE). Sprinkle them with grated cheese and sauce(see sauce from
Removefrom oven.Remove hotoven. ina ahot pouron butter. Brownin meltedbutter.
onmelted pour hard-boiled choppedhard-boiled remainingchopped theremaining withthe
sprinklewith ouett, th"aven, the sprinkle (see SAUCE). sauce Tomatosauce withTomato
yolks, iurroundwith andsurround yolks, (see SAUCE). - and oEUFsÀA poached).OEUFS
(soft-boiledor orpoached). I'auvergnate (soft-boiled Eggsà i l'auvergnate Eggs
EGGS

EGGS
ESgsà tla labéarnaise (soft-boiledor b6arnaise(soft-boiled poached).OEUFS
orpoached). orursÀALA u Eggs Makesmall smalloval ovalcakes cakesusing usingDuchess
Duchesspotato potato - Make (seePOT mixture(see POTATOES). Bakein inthe theoven
ovenuntil golden untilgolden A TOES). Bake mixture brownand andarrange
arrange1Icooked cookedegg eggon oneach each one.Coat Coaithem them brown one.
withconcentrated concentratedveal gravyto vealgravy towhich whichbutter butterhas
hasbeen been with added.Serve Servewith withBéarnaise Biarnaisesauce (see sauce(see
SAUCE). added. SA UCE). Eggsà i la laBeauharnais Beauhamais (soft-boiled (soft-
boiledor poached).OEUFS orpoached). onwsÀALA u Eggs BEAUHARNATS - -Cook
Cookartichoke artichoke hearts heartsin inbutter butterand garnish andgarnish
BEAUHARNAIS withBeauharnais Beauharnaissauce (seeSAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Arrange
Arrange 1Iegg eggon oneach. each. with Coat with with reduced reducedDemi-glace
Demi-glace(see (seeSAUCE), SAUCE),-io which Coat to which butterhas has been
beenadded. added. butter Eggs ài la laBeaumont Beaumont (poached). (poached).OEUFS
oEUFsÀ ALA r,c,BEAUMONT snA,r.rMoNrFor Eggs - For l0 eggs eggs use use_10 l0oval
ovalcroustades croustadesmade made from fromleft left-over puff 10 -over puff j
pastry, (scantpint, and litre litre (scant pint,2tcups) thin Béchamel Bichamel
sauce siuce pastry, and cups) thin (seeSA SAUCE). (see UCE). 'Cook and and trim
trim 33 large large artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. Cut Cut them them into into
'Cook small squares squares and and stew stew them gently in them gently inbutter.
butter. Sieve Sieve one one third third small of the the stewed stewed artichoke
artichoke hearts. hearts. Mix Mix the pur6ewith the purée with the the of Bichamel
sauce. sauce. Add Add 50 (2 oz., 50g. oz., i* cup) butter. burter. Béchamel E.(2
"up) tips (6 oz.) Cook 175 175 g. g. (6 green asparagus oz.) green asparagus tips
in in salt salt water. water. Cook (In order order to have the to have the correct
correct weight weight of ofasparagus tips, 400 g. 400 g. (In asparagus tips, (14
oz.) asparagus asparagus will will be be required.) required.) Drain, Drain, but
butdo do not not rinse rinse (14 oz.) in cold cold water. water. Season Season with
with salt, pepper and salt, pepper grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. in Dress with
with butter. butter. Mix Mix in in the the rest rest of of the the artichoke
artichoke hearts. hearts. Dress 'Poach the the eggs eggs which which should should
be be absolutely absolutely fresh. fresh. Drain Drain 'Poach them and and plunge
plunge into into lukewarm lukewarm water. water. Then Then drain drain again again
and and them dry on on a a c1oth. cloth. Trim Trim the the eggs eggs and and
arrange arrange them them in in a a circle lrcle on on dry individual croustades.
croustades. Cover Cover them them with with the the sauce sauce and put and put
individual some chervil chervil on on each each egg. egg. Garnish Garnish with with
the the artichokes artichokes and and sorne asparagus tips tips arranged arranged
in in the the centre centre of of the (phil6as the circle.' circle.' (Philéas
asparagus Gilbert.) Gilbert.) EgS à i la la béchamel. bechamel. OEUFS oEUFs À A LA
m BÉCHAMEL nfcnllarr -- See See Eggs with Eggs (below). cream sauce sauce (below).
cream BelleH6line eggs (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEUFs
BELLEBELLE_ Belle-Hélène u6riilrr Make oval oval croquettes croquettes from
frornleft-over HÉLÈNE left-over poultry meat. - Make Dip put 1 in egg egg and and
breadtrumbs breadOrumbs and and fry in butter. buttei. Put Dip them them in fry in
I soft_-boiled egg on on each. each. Mask Mask the the eggs or poached poached egg
soft-boiled or eggs with Colbert butters). Garnish Colbert butter butter (see (see
BUTTER, BUTTER, compound compound butters). Garnish with a ring of of Velouté
Velouti sauce with asparagus asparagus tips. tips. Surround Surround with a (see
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Eggs i à la la bellevilloise bellevilloise (sur (sur le
le plat). plat). oEUFs OEUFS A À rn LA ssnrBELLEvLLorsE VILLOISE - Line Line an an
ovenproof ovenproof dish dish with with chopped chopped onion onion softened
softened in in butter. butter. Put Put the the eggs on the onions and garnish
garnish with with 2 2 slices slices of of grilled grilled andouillette andouillette
(q.u.). (q.v.). Bake Bake thJm them and and when when cooked cooked surround
surround the the eggs eggs with with a ribbon ribbon of of Lyonnaise Lyonnaise
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Eggs n àh la b6n6dictine bénédictine
(soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). orurs OEUFS A À re LA
sfN6orcrrNE BÉNÉDICTINE - Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on a a
mixture mixture of of salt salt cod cod pounded pounded with with garlic, garlic,
oil, oil, and and cream, cream, and and mixed mixed with with chopped chopped
trufles. truffies. Mask Mask with with Cream Cream sauce sauce (ser, (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). B6ranger Béranger eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached).
poached). oEUFs OEUFS s6RlNcm BÉRANGER _ Line Line a a flan flan case, case, b_aked
baked blind, blind, with with a a layer layer of of thick thick Onion Onion soubise
(see PUREE). PURÉE). Put Put the the cooked cooked Lggs eggs oo on this this layer
layer soubise (see and and mask mask them them with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce
(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle grated grated cheese cheese over over
the the pie pie and and pour pour melted melted buttei butter over. over. Brown
Brown in in the the oven. oven. Bdrangire Bérangère eggs eggs (en (en cocotte).
cocotte). oEUFs OEUFS sfnlNciRE BÉRANGÈRE - Line Line buttered buttered cocottes
cocottes with with a a thin thin layer layer of offorcemeat forcemeat made made
from from poultry poultry and and truffes. truffies. Break Break the the eggs eggs
into into the the cocottes cocottes and and cook cook in in the the usual usual
way. way. When When the the eggs eggs are are cooked, cooked, garnish garnish with
with I1tablespoon tablespoon of ofragofit ragoût made made from from cocks, cocks'
combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys,blended blended with with Supr€me Suprêmesauce
sauce(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bu-*y Bercyeggs eggs(*rr (surle leplat). plat).oEUFs
OEUFSBERCv BERCY-- Bake Bakethe theeggs eggsin inthe the usual usuaJ way. way.
Garnish Garnish with with a a small small grilled grilled or or fried fried
Jausage. sausage. Surround Surround with with Tomato Tomatosauce sauce(see
(seeSAUCE). SAUCE). Berlioz Berlioz eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or
poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS BERLroz BERLIOZ _ Brown Brown in in the the oven
oven oval oval croustades, croustades, made made from from Duchess Duchess potato
mixture(see (seePOTATOES). POT A TOES).Fill Fillthe thecroustades croustadeswith
withaa potatomixture

L'AUvERGNATT - Cook some cabbage iri meat stock. Strain, Cook sorne cabbage in meat
stock. Strain, and saut6 in butter or lard. Arrange the cooked eggs on the and
sauté in butter or lard. Arrange the cooked eggs on the cab_bage, alternating with
rounds of sausage, fried in butter. cabbage, alternating with rounds of sausage,
fried in butter. Cover with concentrated veal stock to which butter has Cover with
concentrated veal stock to which butter has been added. been added. Babinski eggs
(sur le plat). oEUFs BABrNsrr Garnish the Babinski eggs (sur le plat). OEUFS
BABINSKI - - Garnish the co_okod eggs with cork-shaped chicken croquettes and I
cooked eggs with cork-shaped chicken croquettes and 1 tablespoon morels in cream.
Surround with concentrat'ed tablespoon in cream. Surround with concentrated veal
stock, morels to which butter has been added. veaJ stock, to which butter has been
added. Bachaumont eg5 (en cocotte). oEr.rFs BAcHAUMoNT _ Bachaumont eggs (en
cocotte). OEUFS BACHAUMONT Butter the cocottes and line them with celeriac pur6e.
Break Butter the cocottes and line them with celeriac purée. Break the eggs onto
the puree and cook in the oven in-a bain-marie the eggs onto the purée and cook in
the oven in a bain-marie (q.v.). (q.v.). Remove from the oven, season, and surround
with Cream Remove from the oven, season, and surround with Cream sauce (see SAUCE),
mixed with chopped chervil. (see SAUCE), mixed with chopped chervil. sauce Eggs and
bacon I (srr le plat). orurs AU BAcoN Break the Eggs and bacon 1 (sur le plat).
OEUFS AU BACON - - Break the eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with thin strips of
bacon eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with thin strips of bacon which have been
lightly browned in butter. pbur the fat which have been lightly browned in butter.
Pour the fat from the bacon over them and bake in the oven. from the bacon over
them and bake in the oven. Eggs and bacon tr (ftied). oEUFS AU BAcoN Fry the eggs
(fried). OEUFS AU BACON -- Fry the eggs and bacon inEggs oil. Arrange in a ring,
alternating with rashers-of bac6i, Arrange in a ring, alternating with rashers of
bacon, in oil. grilled or friod in oil. Garnish with fried parsley. grilled or
fried in oil. Garnish with fried parsley. Bagration eggs I (soft-boiled or
poached). oEUFs BAcRArroN Bagration eggs 1 (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS
BAGRATION Serve the cooked eggs in a flan case baked blind. Garnish -- Serve the
cooked eggs in a flan case baked blind. Garnish with diced macaroni cooked in
water, bound with crea cream. with diced macaroni cooked in water, bound with m,
and mixed with diced trufles. Mask with Cream sauce (see and mixed with diced
truffies. Mask with Cream sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
L'AUVERGNATE -

sfARNlrsEBÉARNAISE

2i

Bagration eggs

Bagration eggs

Bagration erygs II (in moulds). oEUFs BAcRArroN _ Line a Bagration eggs II (in
moulds). OEUFS BAGRATION - Line a buttered dariole mould with buttered dariole
mould with macaroni macaroni which which has has been been cooked in water. Arrange
the macaroni in a spiral. Spread cooked in water. Arrange the macaroni in a spiral.
Spread Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) on the macaroni Quenelle forcemeat (see
FORCEMEAT) on the macaroni and break in the eggs. Cook in bain-marie. and break in
the eggs. Cook in a bain-marie. Unmould onto small round acroustades Unmould onto
smalt round croustades and and mask mask with with Crearn sauce (ser', SAUCE). Add
to each egg a round slice of Cream sauce (see SAUCE). Add to each egg a round slice
of truffie cooked in butter. truffie cooked in butter. Balmoraf eg5 (en cocotte).
oEUFs BALMoRAL Line cocotte Balmoral eggs (en cocotte). OEUFS BALMORAL- Line
cocotte dishes with a layer of vegetable mirepoix (q.v.). Break the dishes with a
layer of vegetable mirepoix (q.v.). Break the eggs onto the mirepoix and bake in
the oven in a bain-marie. eggs onto the mirepoix and bake in the oven in a bain-
marie. Remove from the oven, season, and garnish with I Remove from the oven,
season, and garnish with 1 tablespoon diced mushrooms frid in butter and blended
tablespoon diced mushrooms fried in butter and blended with concentrated veal
stock. with concentrated veal stock. eggs (fried). oEUFs BAMBocHE .Bamboche
Bamboche eggs (fried). OEUFS BAMBOCHE-- Fry Frythe the eggs eggs in in oil, and
arrange in a circle onamacidoine (q.v.) of uegel;bte. oil, and arrange in a circle
on a macédoine (q. v.) of vegetables blended with cream. Garnish with thin strips
of fied salt blended with cream. Garnish with thin strips of fried salt cod, as
described for Salt cod d la bamboihe (see COD. cod, as described for Salt cod à la
bamboche (see COD, Salt cod). Salt cod). Brnville eggs (soft-boiled or poached).
oEUFs BANvTLLE _ Banville eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS BANVILLE Cook
artichoke hearts in court-bouillon (q.v.) and saut6 Cook artichoke hearts in court-
bouillon (q.v.) and sauté them lightly in butter. Arrange the cooke-d eggs on the
them lightly in butter. Arrange the cooked eggs on the artichoke hearts and mask
them with Chivry-iauce (see artichoke hearts and mask them with Chivry sauce (see
SAUCE). Garnish with thickened Chicken fircemeat d h SAUCE). Garnish with thickened
Chicken forcemeat à la (see FORCEMEAT). uime crème (see FORCEMEA T).
340 340
EGGS EGGS
salpicon of of truffies truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms blended blended with
with a a thick thick salpicon Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on the the garnished garnished croustades.
croustades. Mask Mask the the eggs eggs lightly lightly with Supr4me Suprême sauce
sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fill the the middle middle of the the dish dish
with cocks' cocks' combs combs fried fried d à la Fill Villeroi. Villeroi. Bernis
eggs eggs I1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiJed or or poached). poacbed). oEUFs OEUFS
BERNIsBERNIS - Make Make Bernis round croustades,with croustades, with a a small
small rim, rim, from from puffpastry. puffpastry. Garnish Garnish round them with a
layer layer of chicken chicken pur6e. purée. Arrange the cooked them eggs in in the
the croustades. croustades. eggs Mask the the eggs eggs with Supr4me Suprême sauce
sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Garnish Garnish Mask with green green asparagus
asparagus tips tips blended with butter. butter. with Bernis eggs eggs tr n (cold).
(cold). oEUFs OEUFS BERNIs BERNIS - Mask Mask poached poached eggs in Bernis White
chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate
with White truffles and glaze with jelly. jelly. truffies mousse (see of Chickm
Chicken mousse Line a a dish dish with with a a layer layer of Line Arrange the
eggs on the mousse, leaving space CHICKEN). Arrange between each each egg for for a
bunch ofgreen of green asparagus tips. Spoon between half-set jelly over the whole
whole dish. Serve very cold. half-set eggs in convenient to to serve the the eggs
in individual If it is more convenient dishes, small small cassa cassolettes dishes
made made from from metal, or shell shell dishes lettes or dishes, be used. used.
crystal or china, can be moulds). OEUFS Bizet eggs eggs (in (in moulds). Brzur
oEUFs BIZET - Butter individual chopped pickled tongue and line with finely chopped
dariole moulds and poach them them truffles. Break the eggs into the mou Ids and
poach moulds and trufres. in a bain-marie. eggs and and the eggs Cook artichoke
artichoke hearts hearts in in butter. Unmould the put I 1 on on each artichoke
Pirigueux sauce Mask with with Périgueux heart. Mask put artichoke heart. (see
SAUCE). Put a on each each egg. truffie on a slice of truffle A LA LA (soft-boiled
or poached). OEUFS oEUFs À bohémienne (soft-boiJed i la boh6mienne Eggs à garnish
BOHÉMIENNE - Make croustades from puff pastry and puffpastry and garnish
nonftr,rrcNNEthem foie gras. gras. Put on the the eggs on the cooked cooked eggs
puree of /oie Put the with purée them with (se SAUCE). purée. Cut SAUCE). Cut
Veloutd sauce sauce (see with Velouté pur6e. Cover Cover them them with lean in
Madeira. Madeira. Put heat them them in and heat ham into into matchsticks and lean
harn the veal light veal ring of of light a ring surround with a and surround eggs
and the eggs the ham on on the jelly. ALET -Bonvalet BoNVALET poached). OEUFS
(soft-boiled or oEuFs BONV or poached). Bonvalet eggs eggs (soft-boiJed and Hollow
in butter, butter, and them in brown them of bread, bread, brown rounds of out
rounds Hollow out place the in the hollows. cooked eggs eggs in the cooked (see
SAUCE) with Mask with surround with and surround SAUCE) and sauce (see Velouti
sauce with Velouté (see a sauce (see Biarnaise sauce tomato-flavoured Béarnaise
thick tomato-flavoured ribbon of of thick a ribbon SAUCE) piped I slice slice of of
paper forcing-bag. Put 1 piped through forcing-bag. Put a paper through a truffle,
egg. on each each egg. heated in in butter, butter, on trufre, heated Eggs (srr le
rl BORDELAISEsonnsr.a'Isp plat). OEUFS A LA oEurs À I (sur le plat). la bordelaise
1 Eggs à i la Break Ia bordelaise bordelaise d la of chopped Cipes à chopped Cèpes
onto a a bed bed of Break the the eggs eggs onto (see (see MUSHROOMS) cook as as
usual. usual. and cook MUSHROOMS) and Eggs (fried). OEUFS sonoELAIsE -A LA r,l,
BORDELAISE tr (fried). oEUFs À la bordelaise bordelaise n Eggs à i la Fry on eggs
on Arrange the the eggs in oil. oil. Arrange oval croûtons cro0tons in eggs and and
oval Fry the the eggs .drth Cèpes (see the la bordelaise bordelar'se (see d la
Cdpes à garnish with crofitons, and and garnish the croûtons, MUSHROOMS). Eggs
garnishes). OEUFS EN oEUFS EN (with various various garnishes). I (with border 1 a
border as a Eggs as quarters, BORDURE into quarters, them into and cut cut them the
eggs eggs and Hard-boil the BoRDURE -- Hard-boil thick halves. rounds, or or
halves. thick rounds, yolks Butter the yolks eggs with with the the eggs plain ring
Arrange the mould. Arrange ring mould. Butter a a plain facing with forcing-bag,
with a forcing-bag, using a mould, using the mould, Fill the outward. Fill facing
outward. forcemeat forcethe forcePress the vegetables. Press fish or or vegetables.
meat, fish made of of meat, forcemeat made meat lid and and cook cook with aa lid
spaces. Cover Cover with empty spaces. avoid ernpty meat down down to to avoid in
oven. in a low oven. in a a bain-marie bain-marie in a low Turn all ingredients ail
that the the ingredients dish so so that onto a a dish mould out out onto Turn the
the mould come soon. it too too soon. remove it not remove Do not together. Do come
out out together. Fill or sautéed saut6ed garnish such creamed or such as ascreamed
a garnish with a Fill the the middle middle with mushrooms; tips or or asparagus
tips of vegetables; vegetables; asparagus macidoine of mushrooms; aa macédoine
other leavesor or spinach leaves cream; spinach orcream; green vegetables in butter
butteror vegetables in other green spinach etc. pur6e; sautéed aubergines; etc.
saut6ed aubergines; spinach purée; Spoon (s* SAUCE) the border. border. over the
SAUCE) over sauce (see Spoon Cream Crearn sauce Eggs hard-boiled Cut hard-boiled EN
BORDURE BoRDURE - - Cut II. OEUFS onurs EN as a a border border II. Eggs as eggs
the arrange the caseand and arrange Bake aa flan flancase slices. Bake round
slices. into thick thick round eggsinto eggs with them with alternating them flan,
alternating of the the flan, round the the edges edges of eggs round

Eggs as border 10 to spinach spinach as a a border Eggs

saut6ed pickled tongue; calves' brains sautéed calves' brains ham; pickled round
slices slices of ham; round (zucchini) sautéed sautEed in in or courgettes
courgettes (zucchini) in butter; butter; aubergines aubergines or in goes weil
hard-boiled garnish that well with with hard-boiled that goes any garnish with any
butter; or with butter; eggs. garnishes of the the garnishes with one one of flan
with of the the flan middle of Fill the the middle Fill with Cream Cream the eggs
eggs with recipe. Cover Cover the in the the previous recipe. described in (see
SAUCE) sauce. suitable sauce. any other other suitable or any SAUCE) or sauce (see
hardBoRDURE -- Cut (cold). OEUFS Cut hardEN BORDURE oEUFs EN Itr (cold). a border
border m Eggs as as a Eggs Put them them rounds. Put quarters or thick rounds. or
thick halves, into ha eggs into boiled eggs boiled Ives, quarters jelly, and with
and decorate decorate with white jelly, lined with with white moulds lined ring
rnoulds into ring into suitable or any any suitable ham, or pickled tongue, lean
harn, pieces of tongue, lean of truffle, truffie, pickled pieces jelly. Leave on
ice. ice. to set set on Leave to garnish. Fill Fill with with half-set jelly.
garnish. (cold). OEUFS Line a BoRDURE -- Line a EN BORDURE oEUFS EN IV (cold). Eggs
as as a a border border IV Eggs jelly. Decorate the whites whites of of with the
plain ring Decorate with mould with with jelly. ring mould plain etc. truffies,
etc. eggs, truffles, hard-boiled eggs, stuffing made made from from ring with with
stuffing fill the the ring forcing-bag to to fill a forcing-bag Use a puree of with
purée of foie yolks of eggs sieved sieved with hard-boiled eggs of the the hard-
boiled the yolks the foie half-set proportion of Fill the the rnould mould with
with half-set gras, in to 1. l. Fill of 3 3 to in the the proportion gras, jelly.
Leave refrigerator. Leave to to set set in in the the refrigerator. jelly. a
buttered buttered croûton cro0ton a dish. dish. Put Put a out onto onto a Turn the
the mould mould out Turn yolks from from the yolks Sieve together together the
mould. Sieve the mould. in the the centre centre of of the in gras. Stuff Stuff the
the whites whites and sorne somefoie eggs and hard-boiled eggs halved hard-boiled
halved foie gras. pyramid on on the the in aa pyramid the eggs eggs in heap the and
heap this mixture mixture and with this with jelly over them. spoon jelly over
them. and spoon with truffles trufres and Decorate with cro0ton. Decorate croûton.
jelly triangles. triangles. Garnish with with jelly Garnish d la Ia eggs à also
called called jellied are also In France France these these eggs eggs are In
iellied eggs française. frangaise. (poached). OEUFS A LA rl BOURsouRoEUFs À la
bourguignonne bourguignonne (poached). Eggs à i la Eggs pinch of (1pint, pint,2l
cups) of red wine, wine,aapinch cups) red dl. (1 Boil 6 6 dl. cuIGNoNNE -- Boil
GUIGNONNE parsley,aa twig twigof handful of of parsley, of pinch of pepper, aasmall
small handful a pinch of pepper, salt, salt, a garlic, of garlic, and aacrushed
crushed clove cloveof leaf and fragment of of bay bay leaf thyme, aa fragment
thyme, for few minutes. minutes. for aa few poach 6 wine. in the thewine. 6 fresh
fresheggs eggs in Strain, Strain, and and poach in fried in them on oncroûtons
crofftons fried arrange them the eggs eggs and and arrange Drain Drain the (see
sauce(see Bourguignonne sauce with Bourguignonne butter. Cover the the eggs eggs
with butter. Cover red into the the red kneaded butter butter into SAUCE) made by
by blending blending kneaded SAUCE) made cooked. theeggs eggs were were cooked.
wine in which which the wine in made from from crofitons made eggs on on croûtons
arrange the theeggs Alternatively, Alternatively, arrange with sautéed saut6ed
Garnish with friedin inbutter. butter. Garnish round round slices slices of of
bread, bread, fried glazd onions. Bour' withBourCover with onions. Cover small
glazed mushrooms mushrooms and and smaIJ (seeSAUCE). guignonne sauce guignonne
SAUCE). sauce (see (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS rA, osuFsÀALA orpoached). Eggs t
la la bretonne bretonne 1I (soft-boiJed Eggs à in friedin oncroûtons, cro0tons,
fried cooked eggs eggs on BRETONNE Arrange the thecooked BREToNNE - - Arrange
(seeSAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), butter. Bretonne sauce themwith with Bretonne Cover
them butter. Cover outcroûtons, cro0tons, inhollowed hollowed out Alternatively,
theeggs eggsin arrange the Alternatively, arrange (or in filledwith with andfilled
ortartlets), tartlets),and fried incroustades croustades or frid in in butter
butter (or gravyto vealgravy to white pur6e. Cover withconcentrated concentrated
veal Coverwith white bean bean purée. which hasbeen beenadded. added. which butter
butterhas (rrrle plat). OEUFS nnrror.nts - LlBRETONNE Eggs tr(sur leplat).
oEI;FsÀALA labretonne bretonne n Eggsài la theyare are Bake plat in way.When
Whenthey leplat inthe theusual usualway. surle Bake the theeggs eggs sur

2t

341 341
EGGS EGGS
cooked, surround surround them them with with aa ribbon ribbon of of Bretonne
Bretonne sauce sauce cooked, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see Alternatively, force force
through through a a forcing-bag, forcing-bag, a pur6e a thick thick purée
Alternatively, of white white beans beans along along the the edge edge of of a a
bultered buttered dish. dish. Break Break the the of eggs into into the the dish
dish and and fry fry them them in in the the usual usual way. way. eggs Brillat-
Savarin eggs (soft-boiled or eEgs 1 I (soft-boiled poached). OEUfS or poached).
oEUFs Brillat-Savarin BRILLAT-sAvARrN -- Bake Bake aa flan flan case case blind.
blind. Garnish Garnish with with BRILLAT-SAVARIN morels sa saut6ed in buller.
butter. Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the mushmushmorels utéed
in rooms and (see and mask mask with with concentrated concentrated Velouté Veloutd
sauce sauce (see rooms SAUCE) to which which sherry sherry and and butter butter
have have been been added. added. Dress Dress SA UCE) to the centre centre of of
the the dish dish with with buttered green asparagus buttered green asparagus tips.
tips. the Brlllat-Savarin eggs (srr le plat). OEUFS eggs II II (sur le plat).
oEr.JFs BRILLATBRTLLATBrillat-Savarin SAvARIN Bake the plat in the eggs eggs sur
sur le le plal in the the usual usual way. way. Garnish Garnish SA VAR IN -- Bake
them with with morels morels sautéed saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and
asparagus asparagus tips. tips. them Surround them them with with sherry-flavoured
(see sherry-flavourd Velouté Velouti sauce sauce (see Surround SAUCE). SAUCE).
Brillat-Savarin eggs (en caissettes). eggs m Itr (en caissettes). OEUFS oEuFs
BRILLATBRTLLATBrillat-Savarin SAVARIN -- Butter Butter small small ovenproof
ovenproof china china dishes. dishes. Garnish Garnish SAVARIN them with with 1 I
tablespoon tablespoon sautéed saut6ed morels. morels. Break Break the the eggs eggs
onto onto them them and and bake bake in in the the oYen oven in in a a bain-marie.
bain-marie. them Garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips, tips, and and surround
surround with with a a ribbon ribbon Garnish (see SA of Velouté Velouti sauce sauce
(see SAUCE), flavoured with with sherry. sherry. of UCE), flavoured (soft-boiled or
Brimont eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). BRrMoNr -oEUFS BRIMONT
Brimont puffpastry Fill a large puff a large croustade with with mushrooms
mushrooms cooked cookd in in FiJI pastry croustade cream. Pu! Put the the cooked
cooked eggs eggs on on the the mushrooms mushrooms and and mask mask cream. with
thick thick veloule velouti sauce sauce made made from from chicken chicken stock
stock with with with Madeira and and cream cream added. added. Garnish Garnish the
the centre centre of of the the dish dish Madeira with small small round round
chicken chicken croquettes. croquettes. Put Put a a slice slice of of truffle
truffie on on with each egg. egg. each (soft-boiled or Eggs àla i la bruxeUoise
bruxelloise 1 I (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). orurs À A LA rl Eggs
BRUXELLoISE Arrange the cooked eggs eggs on hollowed-out on hollowed-out - Arrange
BRUXELLOISE the cooked (which have crofitons (which have been browned in in the
oven) or or in in croûtons been browned the oven) (baked blind). tartlets (baked
Garnish with chopped chicory chicory tartlets blind). Garnish with chopped (see
cooked in in butter and bound with Bichamel sauce (see cooked butter and bound with
Béchamel sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Coat Coat with Crearn sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). with Cream Eggs t la plat). OEUFS tr (srr le plat). oEnFs À A LA ra
DRUXELsnlxnrEggs à la bruxelloise bruxelloise II (SIIf le LoIs eggs onto chicory in
in LOISE - Break Break the the eggs onto halved, halved, braised braised chicory
ovenproofdishes and cook cook thern Surround ovenproof dishes and them in in the
the usual usual way. way. Sur round them (see SAUCE). a ribbon Crearn sauce sauce
(see SAUCE). them with with a ribbon of of Cream (soft-boiled or Cardinal eggs I
Cardinal eggs J (soft-boiled or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS cARDTNAL
CARDINALGarnish tartlets Garnish tartlets (baked (baked blind) blind) with with
spiny spiny lobster lobster blended blended (see with SAUCE). Put with Bdchamel
Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the
SAUCE). the lobster lobstcr and and mask mask with with Cardinal Cardinal sauce
sauce (see (sec SA UCE). Garnish Garnish each each egg egg with with a a slice
sliee of of truffie. tmflle. Crrdinrl Cardinal eggs eggs II II (in (in moulds).
moulds). oEUFs OEUFS cARDTNAL CARDINAL - Butter Butter dariole dariole moulds
moulds and and sprinkle sprinkle them them with with lobster lobstcr coral. coral.
Break Break the the eggs eggs in in the the moulds mou Ids and and cook cook them
them in in a a bain-marie. bain-marie. EmpW Empty the the moulds moulds into into
tartlets tartlets garnished garnished with with a a mixture mixture of of lobster
and, Bdchamel lobster and Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Mask Mask
with with (see Cardinal sauce SAUCE). Cardinal sauce (see SA UCE). Heat Heat sliced
sliced truffies trumes in in butter butter and and put put one one on Oll each each
egg. egg. Car0me Carême eg5 eggs I 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached).
poached). oEUFs OEUFS c.m€rvn CARÊME Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs
eggs on on artichoke artichoke hearts hearts cooked cooked in in butter. butter.
Garnish Garnish with with a a ragofit ragoût of of sweetbreads, sweetbreads,
trufres truffles and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Mask Mask with with thick truck
Veloutd Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), one one third third of of
which which should should be be veal veal stock. stock, with with cream cream and
and Madeira Madeira added. added. Cut Cut slices slices of or pickled pickled
tongue tongue with with a a fluted fluted biscuit-cutter biscuit-cutter and and put
put I1 slice slicc on on each ca ch egg. egg. Car6me Carême eggs eggs tr II (in (in
moulds). moulds). oEUFs OEUFS c.lnftvre CARÊME - Line Line small small hexagonal
hexagonal moulds mou Ids with with pickled pickled tongue tongue and and diced
diced truffies. trumes. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the moulds
moulds and and steam steam them. them. Garnish. Garnish, and and mask mask with
with sauce sauce as as in in the the recipe recipe above. above. Car€me Carême eggs
eggs m III (cold). (cold). osuFs OEUFS cln€ME CARÊME - Poach Poach the the eggs
eggs and and trim triro them them so so that that little little of of the the white
white remains. rernains. Line Line small small jelly hexagonal moulds hexagonal
moulds with with jelly and and decorate decorate them them with with trufres
truffles and and pickled pickled tongue lOngue cut cut into into small small
pieces. pieees. Put Put the the eggs eggs into into
342 342

the moulds. moulds. Fil! jelly. Fill the the mou moulds with Madeira-flavoured
Madeira-flavoured jelly. the Ids with Chill on on iee. ice. Chili put each Unmould
the the eggs eggs and and put each one one on on an an artichoke artichoke Unmould
heart which which has has been cooked in been cooked in court-houillon court-
bouillon and and masked masked heart jelly. with jelly. Arrange Arrange the the
eggs eggs around around an an aspic aspic of of sweetbreads sweetbreads with and
trumes truffies made made in in a a conical conical mould. mould. and Cook small
small mushrooms mushrooms in in court-houillon. court-bouillon. Mask Mask them them
with Cook with (see SA White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
Decorate with with White UCE). Decorate lozenge-shaped pieees pieces of of trume.
truffe. Put Put a a decorated decorated mushroom mushroom lozenge-shaped on each
each egg. egg. on (soft-boiled or Egp à i la la carmélite carm6Hte (sofl-boiled
poached). OEUFS or poached). onurs À A LA r,c, Eggs clnufrnt -- Bake Bake a flan
case a flan case blind. blind. Garnish Garnish with with Musse/s Mussels in
CARMÉLITE in (see MUSSEL). crecnn (see MUSSEL). Arrange Arrange the the cooked
cooked eggs eggs on on the the cream mussels; garnish garnish with (see SAUCE).
with White White wine wine sauce sauce (see SAUCE). mussels; (srr le Carmen eggs
plat). OEUFS eggs (SIIr le plat). oEUFs CARMEN cARMEN -- Bake Bake the Carmm the
eggs eggs plat in sur le le plat in the the usual usual way. way. Cut Cut them them
with with a a round round biscuitsur biscuitcutter, Jeaving leaving only only a a
narrow narrow ribbon ribbon of white round of white round the the cutter, yolk.
Deep-fry Deep-fry croûtons cro0tons in in oil. oil. Cover Cover each each croûton
cro0ton with yolk. with a a slice of of harn ham sautéed saut6od in in a pan. Put a
frying pan. Put 1 I egg egg on on each each slice slice slice of ham. ham. Mask
Mask the the eggs eggs with (see SA with TomalO Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE), of
UCE), seasoned with paprika and with paprika and with butter added. added. seasoned
(soft-boiled or Carnavalet eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached).
oEUFs CARNAcARNACarnavalet vALET - Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs
in in a a circle circle on on Suhrics Subrics of VALET (see SPINACH). spinach (see
SPINACH). Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of of the the dish spinach dish
with a a macédoine macidoine ofvegetables of vegetables bJended blended with with
Béchamel Bichamel sauce with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Mask Mask the the eggs eggs with
(see with Cream Crean sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (fried). OEUFS Eggs à i
la la catalane catalane (fried). oEUFs À A lA r,l CATALANE c,lrlrlxr -- Fry Eggs
halved and thinly thinly sliced sliced aubergines aubergines in oil. Use halved
tomatoes and in oil. Use a pan for separate frying frying pan for each each
vegetable. vegetable. When When they separate they are cooked, mi!< mix the
vegetables together and and season season with with salt cooked, the vegetables and
pepper. Add garlie garlic and chopped parsley and and pepper. Add and chopped and
arrange arrange a dish. on a Cook the eggs eggs in a frying pan and slide them on
to Cook in a pan and them on to the vegetables. Eggs à i la charcutibre 1 I
(fried). OEUFS oEUFs A ra CHARCUTIÈRE cH,c.Rcuntnn la charcutière À LA Fry Fry the
eggs in lard. Arrange Arrange them on a dish in the shape of a crown, (see crown,
alternating alternating them with $illed grilled Pork Park cripinettes crépinettes
(see CREPINETTES). Garnish Garnish with and serve CRÉPINETTES). with fried fried
parsley parsley and serve with Charcutière Charcuti\re sauce (see with (see SAUCE).
Eggs i à h la charcutibre charcutière tr II (soft-boiled (soft-boilOO or poached).
orurs OEUFS I À I/, small Pork LA cHARcurdinn CHARCUTIÈRE - Arrange the cooked eggs
on on small Park uipinettes crépinettes (see (see CREPINETTES) CRÉPINETTES) which
hive have been frid fried or grilled. Charcutiire sauce grilled. Cover Coyer with
with concentrated concentrated Charcutière sauce (see (sec sAUCE). SAUCE).
Chartreuse eggs (in (in moulds). moolds). oEr.rFs OEUFS EN EN cHARTREusn CHARTREUSE
- Cut carrots carrots and and turnips turnips into into tiny tiny balls. balls.
Dice Dice French French beans. beans. Cook Cook these these vegetables, vegetables,
and and green green peas, peas, separately in in salt water. water. Drain Drain the
the vegetables, vegetables, toss toss them them in in melted meltcd butter, butter,
and line line buttered buttered moulds moulds with with them. them. Break Break the
the eggs eggs into into the the moulds moulds and cook cook in in a bain-marie.
bain-marie. Make round round cro0tes, croûtes, hollow holJow thsm them out, out,
and and bake bake until until golden. them with with well-drained well-drained
braised braised cabbage. cabbage. golden. Fill Fill them Unmould Unmould the the
eggs eggs and and put put them them on on the the cabbage cabbage in the the
cro0tes, croû tes, separating separating each egg egg from from the the next next
with with a slice of of cooked cooked sausage. sausage. Mask Mask with with
concentrated concentrated veal veal stock stock to to which butter has has been
been added. added. which butter Eggs Eggs au an chasseur chasseur I 1 (srr (sur le
le plat). plat). oEUTS OEUFS AU AU cHAssEuR CHASSEUR Garnish Garnish cooked cooked
eggs eggs with with sauteed sautéed chicken chicken livers. livers. Surround
Surround with with a a ribbon ribbon of of Chasseur Chasseur sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley.
Finely Finely sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms can can be be added added to 10 the
the chicken chicken livers. livers. Eggs Eggs au au chasseur chasseur II II (soft-
boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). ouurs OEUFS nu AU cHAssEuR CHASSEUR -
Bake Bake tartlets tartlets blind blind and and fill lill them them with with
sautEed sautéed chicken chicken livers. livers. Arrange Arrange the the cooked
cooked eggs eggs on on the the livers livers and and cover coYer with with Chasseur
Chasseur sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped
chopped parsley. parsley.

-
EGGS
(soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs Chateaubriand poached). OEUFS
Chateaubriand eggs in butter. butter. Fill Fill hearts in Cook artichoke artichoke
hearts - Cook (se, SA UCE). Arrange the eggs with thick Béarnaise Biarnaise sauce
sauce (see SAUCE). veal stock stock to hearts, and with concentrated veal on mask
with on the the hearts, and mask which butter has been added. A LA I (soft-boiled
or or poached). OEUFS orurs À u Eggs à i la châtelaine chltelaine 1 with Chestnut
tartlets blind. CHÂTELAINE cnArrrlrxn -- Bake Bake tartlets blind. Garnish Garnish
with (see PUREE) purie quarter of its weight of with a a quarter its weight PURÉE)
mild mixed with purée (see Onion soubise soubise (see PURÉE). PUREE). Arrange the
eggs on the pur6e Onion purée Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). and and coyer cover with a
poultry Velouté A LA I-l CHÂTELAINE csArrLArNE Eggs à t la tr (cold). OEUFS oELrFs
À Eggs la châtelaine ch0telaine D with Chaud-froid Mask the the soft-boiled soft-
boiled or or poached eggs with Mask poached eggs (see SAUCE). pickled tongue with
pickled tongue and sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with jelly. glaze
with jelly. truffies, and truffies, and glaze Arrange the in a a dish dish lined
with a a jellied lined with jellied chestnut the eggs eggs in mousse. Coyer a thin
layer of half-set half-set jelly. jelly. Cover with a (mr le plat). OEUFS A LA m
CHAVILLE cruvnrB- Line Eggs à i la Chaville (sur oEurs À I tablespoon tablespoon
salpicon ofmushrooms of mushrooms the ovenproofdish ovenproof dish with 1 and cook
cook in in butter. Break the the eggs eggs into the dish and cooked in with 1 I
tablespoon usual way. way. Garnish Garnish the the cooked eggs with the usual which
chopped tarragon Tomato fondue fondue (see FONDUE) to which has been added. has
poached). OEUFS cuENIrR or poached). oEUFs CHÉNIER Chénier Ch6nier eggs eggs (soft-
boiled or (see, PILAF) add saffron. saffron. Make a Rice pilaf (see and add Make it
Make a PILAF) and put 1 I egg and put egg on each. Garnish with sliced into small
cakes and (see in oil. Mask with with Tomato Tomato sauce aubergines oil. Mask
aubergines fried fried in sauce (see SAUCE). Eggs à t la or poached). OEUFS onurs A
L,c. Eggs À LA la chevalière chevalibre (soft-boiled or cnevlrdRE - Bake a flan
case blind. Arrange the eggs around CHEVALIÈREragodt the edge, and the flan a
ragoût the edge, the centre of the flan with a and garnish the and mushrooms,
blended blended made of cocks' combs, kidneys, and made (see SAUCE). with Velouté
Velouti sauce SAUCE). Spoon Spoon Suprême with sauce (see SuprAme sauce (see SA in
egg and SAUCE) the eggs. eggs. Dip cocks' combs combs in UCE) over (see over the I
comb breadcrumbs and and fry fry them. Put comb between between each each egg Put 1
I slice of truffle and 1 truffie on each egg. and (srr le plat). OEUFS A LA I.l
CHEVREUSE cnrvnEusn Eggs à A la la Chevreuse (sur oEurs À pur6ed French layer of
puréed French beans round the the edge a layer beans round edge of a Pipe a
ovenproof dish. Break the eggs into the middle of buttered ovenproof and bake. the
dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated cheese and (stuffed). A LA r.n CHIMAY cnnaay
Eggs ffed). OEUFS Egp à i la la Chimay Chimay (stu oEUFs À - Cut yolks and hard-
boiled eggs lengthwise. Remove the yolks and pound hard-boiled (q.v.). Stuff them,
adding an an equal quantity of dry duxelles (q.v.). the halved egg whites with this
mixture. mixture. Arrange cover with Arrange the stuffed eggs in a buttered dish
and coyer (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Mornay with grated cheese. sauce (see Sprinkle with
Mornay sauce in the oyen and brown in oven or under a Pour meltod melted butter
over and grill. (mr le plat). OEUFS AIrx CHIPOLATAScHIpoLArAs Eggs with chipolatas
chipolatas (sur oEurs AUX Line an an ovenproof dish dish with with chopped onions
onions softened softened in Line a grilled chipobutter. Break the eggs onto the
onions. Put a yolk and pour melted lata sausage sausage on on either side and pour
lata de of each either si each yolk in the butter over over the the dish. dish.
Cook Cook in the oyen. oven. Surround Surround with butter concentrated veal stock.
(soft-boited or poached). OEUFS Eggs à i la la Chivry Chivry (soft-boiled orurs À A
LA r.n Eggs or poached). cHIvRy the cooked cooked eggs on fried fried croûtons.
crofltons. CHIVRY Arrange the eggs on - Arrange Garnish with green asparagus tips
cooked in butter. Coyer Cover SAUCE). with Chivry sauce (see SAUCE). poached).
OEUFS Choron eggs eggs (soft-boiled or or poached). oEUFs CHORON cHoRoN Choron Make
oval croûtons round the edge and Make cro0tons with a deep groove round butter. Put
the cooked eggs on the croûtons cro0tons deep-fry them in butter. Tomato sauce
saucehasbeen and mask with Cream sauce to which Tomato has been added (see SAUCE).
(see SAUCE) sauce (see Pipe a a ribbon of thick thick Biarnaise Pipe ribbon of
Béarnaise sauce groove round into the croûtons. with small cro0tons. Garnish
Garnish with the groove round the into the green peas cooked in butter. poached).
OEUFS or poached). oeurs À A rl Eggs LA Eggs à A la la Clamart (soft-boiled or
cLAMART Bake tartlets tartlets and and fill fill them them with with Peas d la
CLAMART Peas à - Bake (see PEA). eggs on on the the peas française (see PEA).
Arrange the cooked eggs frangaise
CHATEAUBRIAND cHATEAUBRTAND -

(se SAUCE) to which Green sauce (see and coyer cover with with Cream Crearn sauce
peabutter butters) has been BUTTER, Compound been added. pea butter (see BUTTER,
Compound butters) Eggs À LA Eggs à n la h Clarence Chrence (soft-boiled or or
poached). OEUFS oEUFs A cLARENcE and fi,!l fill them with a julienne (q.v.)
CLARENCE - Bake tartlets and tongue, truffies, and and mushrooms. Arrange the of
pickled pickled ton gue, truffles, cooked eggs in the the tartlets and coyer cover
with with Rdforme cooked Réforme sauce tartlets and eggs in (see SAUCE) to which
butter has been added.

eggs en cocotte Garnished eggs

E'N COCOTTE Eggs en en cocotte with cream. cocorrE A Eggs À LA cocotte with cream.
OEUFS oEUFS EN I tablespoon boiling cream Put 1 cream in the cocottes and and - Put
of butter butter to the yolk. Bake in the break in the eggs. Add a nut of oyen oven
in a a bain-marie. Eggs en en cocotte cocotte à i la la duxeIJes. duxelles. OEUFS
oErrFs EN BN COCOTTE cocorrE A r,c, Eggs À LA DUxELLES buttered cocotte cocotte
dishes with with dry dry duxelles DUXELLES - Line buttered and bake in the oyen
oven (q.v.). Break the eggs into the cocottes and rn a a bain-marie. Remove from
from the the oyen oven and and surround surround the in yolks with concentrated
veal gravy to which butter has been added. EgEs en cocotte oEUFs EN EN COCOTTE
cocorrE AU A.u JUS rus Eggs cocotte in gravy. OEUFS - Cook as for Eggs en en
cocotte as cocotte with tarragon (see below) leaving out gravy until the tarragon
and and reducing reducing the the veal veal gravy the tarragon is very until it it
is concentrated. concen tra ted. naturel - Cook as described cocotte au
natureldescribed under Eggs Eggs en cocotte en cocotte (see EGGS, Basic egg
dishes). dishes). en EN COCOTTE Parmesan cheese. OEUFS oEUFs EN cocorrE Eggs en
cocotte with Parmesan AU PARMESAN rARMESAN as for Eggs en m cocotte AU for Eggs
Cook as cocotte with with cream. - Cook grated Pannesan Parmesan cheese cheese over
over the the eggs eggs and and pour Sprinkle grated melted butter over. Bake in the
oyen oven in a a bain-marie. rN COCOTTE i la p6rigourdine. orurs EN cocorrs À A LA
la périgourdine. OEUFS Eggs en cocotte à pfnlcounorNs Break the the eggs
PÉRIGOURDINE lined with a eggs into into cocottes lined - Break purbe of yolks.
Bake in of foie gras. Put a a nut of butter on the yolks. purée oven in a a bain-
marie. When cooked, surround the yolks the oyen (se SAUCE). a ring of Pirigueux
Périgueux sauce (see with a Eggs en en cocotte à I la la rouennaise. OEUFS uN
COCOTTE cocorrE À A LA I-l Eggs orurs EN RoUENNAISE d la Ia pdrigourdine,
ROUENNAISE périgourdine, - Cook as for Eggs en cocotte à (see FORCEMEAT) using à ri
gratin forcemeat FORCEMEAT) instead using forcemeat (see instead of (see gras.
Surround with a pur& of a ring of sauce (see purée foie gras. of foie of Wine sauce
which butter has been added. SAUCE) to which i la strasbourgeoise. stra$ourgeoise.
OEUFS oEUFs rN cocorrr À A Eggs en cocotte à EN COCOTTE LA STRASBOURGEOISE
srRAsBouRGEoIsE Line the the cocottes cocottes with with chopped LA - Line and cook
in the oyen oven in a a bain-marie. bain-marie. truffies, add add the eggs, eggs,
and gras sautéed Garnish each each cocotte cocotte with with a a knob knob of of
foie saut6ed in Garnish foie gras butter. Surround Surround with with concentrated
Demi-glace sauce sauce (see butter. and butter have been added. SAUCE) to which
which Madeira and Eggs en en cocotte with tarragon. oEUFs EN rN COCOTTE cocorte À
Eggs tarragon. OEUFS cocotte with A r'EsrRAGoN the eggs eggs as as described
described under Eggs en L'ESTRAGON Cook the under Eggs - Cook (see EGGS, tocotte
(see EGGS, Basic egg dishes). dishes). When the eggs eggs are ,:ocotte Basic egg
When the

cntur CRÈME

343 343
EGGS
gravy f:Iavoured flavoured a ring ring of concentrated veal veal gravy cookd, pour
a cooked, yolks. Garnish with blanched round the with tarragon tarragon round the
yolks. Garnish with with The cocottes can lined leaves, arranged in in a a star.
The can be Iined tarragon lea ves, arranged if desired desired.. chopped tarragon,
if with chopped eN COCOTTE A LA rA, I la la tartare. tartare. OEVI'S oELrFs EN
cocorrE À en cocotte Eggs en cocotte à Eggs and Add chopped chives and TARTARE
Mince raw raw beef finely finely. TARTARE . Add - Mince pepper. Line salt and the
cocottes cocottes with with this season with with salt and pepper. season Line the
in the the eggs eggs. Pour a a ring ring of fresh fresh cream cream and break in
mixture and . Pour yolks. Sake round the Bake in in the oyen oven in rn a a bain-
marie. the yolks. round (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS coLBERr eggs (soft-boUed or
poached). oEUFs COLBERT Colbert eggs Colbert garnished with with a Arrange the
cooked eggs eggs in in croustades garnished the cooked Arrange (see vegetables
blended blended with with Bichamel sauce (see macidoine of vegelables macédoine
Béchamel sauce BUTTER, the eggs with Colbert butter (see BUTTER, SAUCE). Mask lhe
butters). Compound butters). Compound (soft-boiled or poacbed). poached). OEUFS
oEUFs COMTESSE coMrnssE Comtesse eggs (soft-boUed Bake tartlets and garnish thern
Sake them with a salpicon of truffies truffles and with Arrange the cooked eggs on
top mushrooms. Arrange lOP and mask with (see SAUCE) ftavoured flavoured with with
sherry. sherry. Put Put 1 I Supr€me sauce sauce (see Suprême trufre on each egg.
slice of truffle (srr le plat). OEUFS a border of Cond6 eggs 1 I (sur of onurs
CONDÉ cot*o6 Condé - Pipe a pur6ed red red beans onto a Grill or a buttered puréed
buttered ovenproof dish. Grill them in lhe the bottom fry two slices of lean bacon
and arrange lhem of the of lhe dish. Break the eggs on top and cook in the usual
way. (srr le plat). OEUFS Cond6 €ggs orurs CONDÉ coNof II (sur - Bake the eggs
Coodé eggs II cooked garnish with as in recipe above above and and when in the lhe
recipe when cooked with 2 as with Suprême chicken croquettes. croquettes. Surround
Surround with Suprdme sauce small chicken small (see SAUCE). (see (ur le Eggs Conti
1 I (sur le plat). OEUFS oeurs CONTI coNrl a buttered - Line a ovenproof dish dish
with wÎlh I 1 tablespoon lentil lenti! pur6e. purée. Break Break the slices eggs
and bake in the eggs into the dish and lhe usual way. 2 thin th in slices saut6ed
in butter or grilled, added.. lean bacon, sauléed grilled, can be added Eggs Conti
tr fi (soft-boited (soft-boiled or poached). orurs OEUFS coNrl CONTI - Line Line a
pie dish with a thin th in puree purée of lentils and arrange arrange the cooked
eggs on the pur6e. purée. àh la coque coque Eggs n - See EGGS, Basic egg dishes.
cOrELErrEs Egg c6telettes côtelettes (hard-boiled). orurs OEUfS EN EN CÔTELETTES -
Dice the whites and and yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and blend with a
thick Bdchamel sauce (see Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) to lO which which raw raw
yolks of egg have been added. added. Chill. ChilI. 50-9. (2-oz.) Divide this Divide
this mixture into into 50-g. (2-oz.) pieces and and shape into egg and and deep-
fry. into cutlets. cUllets. Dip Dip in in egg and breadcrumbs and deep-fry . a
dish. Put a frill Arrange Arrange in a circle on a frill on each cutlet and garnish
Serve with garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve with Tomato Tomato
sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) or other suitable sauce. sauce. Egg Egg c6telettes
côtelettes (cutlets) (cutlets) can can also also be be served served with with
other garnishes, gamishes, such such as as green green vegetables vegetables with
witb butter or or cream, cream, macidoine, macédoine, tomato lomato fondue, fondue,
risotto, risotlo, and and different kinds of of pasta or pur6es. purées. The
mixture for egg cutlets cUllels may be be varied. Diced Diced mushrooms rooms and
and truffes truffies may may be be added, added, or if if a a meat mixture is
preferred, diced ham or diced pickled tongue. Egg cutlets can be be cooked in in
clarified clarmed butter bUller instead of being being deep-fried. deep-fried .
Eggs Eggs with cream cream (srr (sur le le plat). plat). oEUFs OEUFS A À LA cRtME
CRÈME - Break Break the lhe eggs eggs into into individual individual buttered
buttered ovenproof dishes. dishes. Surround Surround with fresh fresh cream and
cook in the tbe usual usual way. Alternatively, cooked eggs can be surroundod
surrounded with a Alternatively, the cookd ribbon of Crearn Cream sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE). SA UCE) . Eggs with OEUFS A À r.l LA with crerm cream sauce sauce
(soft-boiled (soft-boiJed or poached). osuFs cniw croûtons fried in butter, butter,
and CRÈME - Put cooked eggs on cro0tons cover with Crean Cream sauce (sw (see
SAUCE). This recipe is also called Eggs Eggs d à la bichamel. héchamel. Egp Eggs i
à la Crecy I 1 (soft-boited (soft-boiJed or poached). poached). oEtfis OEVI'S A À
LA LA cRtcycRÉCY - Arrange Arrange the lhe cooked eggs eB,gs in a pyramid pyramid
on on a foundafoundation tion of of Carrot Carrot purie purée (see PUREE;. PUREE).
Cover Coyer with Cream Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs i à Ia la
Cr6cy Crécy tr II (srr (sur le le plaQ. plat). oEUFs OEUFS A À r,c, LA cRfcy CRÉCY
- Spread Spread I tablespoon lablespoon Carrot Carroi purie purée (se (see PUREE)
PURÉE) on the the bottom botlom of
344
Escargots (snalls) (snai!s) from (rom Burgundy Burgundy (Phot. (Phol . Nicolas)
Nicolas) Escargots

small small buttered buttered ovenproof dishes dishes and and break break in in the
the eggs. Cook UCE). Cook and and then thgn surround with with Cream Crearn sauce
(see SA SAUCE). (frid). OEUFS Eggs à n la h cr~le cr6ole (fried). oEItFs À A LA r.l
CRÉOLE cnEorr -- Fry th!! the eggs grilled courgette halves. FiJI in oi! Fill the
cenlre in oil and arrange on on grilled centre (see RICE). POUI of the dish with
Rice à with Rice d la la créole criole (see Pour Noisette huiler BUTTER, Compound
Compound bulters) butters) over the eggs. butter (see BUTTER, (soft-boited or
poached). OEUFS A LA Eggs à t la la cressooière I (soft-boiled oELJFS À LA
cressonibre 1 pie dish Arrange the CRESSONŒRE cnrssoNrinn -- Arrange the cooked
eggs eggs in in a a pie dish lined (see Watercress purie. with purée. Coyer with
Watercress Cover with with Cream Cremn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Bake in in the
oyen, stock oven, or with concentrated veal slock to which which butter has added..
has been added to (nrr le plat). OEUFS Eggs Egp à cressonilre II II (sur oEUFs À A
LA rA CREScnssi la h cressooière le plat). (sw SONLÈRE purée (see soxdnn Pipe a a
border border of of thick thick Watercress purde - Pipe W ATERCRESS) onto a
WATERCRESS) a buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Break in (se SA the eggs. Surround
the yolks with Cre am sauce (see U CE). SAUCE). Creun Bake in the oven. oven. Sake
(hard-boiled). OEUFS EN CR~UETIES Egg cRoeuErrrs Eg croquettes croquettes (hard-
boiled). oErrFs EN as for Prepare the croquette mixture as Egg côtelettes for Egg
cdtelettes binding White or Bichamel with Béchamel sauce (see SA UCE) . with White
SAUCE). form the mixture into other shapes. When cold, fonn into eggs, eggs, or
other shapes. Dip in in egg egg and and fry. fried Dip fry . Garnish and
breadcrumbs and Garnish with with fried (se SAUCE). parsley. Serve with Tomato
Tomato or Cream Crearn sauce (see parsley. SAUCE). poached). oEUFS Daudet eggs
(soft-boHOO or or poached). OEUFS DAUDET DA UDET Daudet eggs (mft-boiled lhe cooked
eggs on puff pastry croustades covered Arrange the on puffpastry with chopped
breast breast of chicken. Cover with pur6ed puréed truffies (ser, SA bound with
SAUCE). wilh rich rich White sauce (see UCE). DAUMoNT Daumont Daurnoot eggs (soft-
boiled or poached). OEUFS oEttFS DAUMONTArrange the the cooked large mushrooms
cooked cookod eggs eggs on on large cooked in garnishd with a salpicon salpicon of
and garnished butter and with a crayfish tails lails à butter of crayfish d (see
SAUCE). Put la Nantua. Nantua. Coyer la with Nantua sauce Put a Cover with sauce
(see each egg. egg. sliver of truffie trutHe on eacb Delmonico Delmooico eggs
(soft-boiled or poached). oEUFS OEUFS DELMoNIco DELMONICO (see SA the cooked eggs
eggs with UCE) with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) - Coat the truffles, and put them on a
croustade of mixed with chopped truffes, filled with with lambs' lambs'
sweetbreads, sweetbreads, mushrooms, and noodles filled lruffles, blended blended
with with concentrated concenlrated Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see truffies,
SAUCE). Glaze in the lhe oven. poached). OEVI'S DEMIDemi-deuil eggs (soft-boiled or
Demi-deuil eggp (soft-boiled oELrFs DEMIor poached). DEUIL DEUIL - Arrange Arrange
the cooked eggs in a puffpastry puff pastry shell filled sauce (see cream . Coyer
Suprême sauce with mushrooms in cream. Cover with with SuprAme SA UCE) . Garnish
Garnish with with diced diced truffies truffies blended blended with SAUCE). with
conSAUCE). Madeira sauce sauce (see SAUCE). centrated Madeira à la diable (ftid).
(fTied). oEUFs OEUFS A À r,l' LA oLc,sLE DIABLE - Fry the eggs Eggs il Turn them in
sizzling sizzling (nearly (nearly brown) brown) butter. butter. Tum them without
without in the yolks. yolks . Arrange on a a very very hot dish. dish. Sprinkle
Sprinkle breaking the with brown butter and a dash dash of heated vinegar. à la la
Diane Diane (soft-boiled or poached). osuFs OEUFS A À LA DIANE D1Al'-<"EEggs i Eggs
Arrange the the cooked eggs eggs on hollowed-out slices of bread, bread. gamished
with purffi puréed game. game. Cover Coyer with fried in butter and garnished
Salmis sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which diced diced truffies and butter Salmis have
have been added. added . eggs (soft-boiled or poached). poacbed). oEUFs OEUFS DINo
DlNO - Arrange Arrange Dino egs tartlets lined with finely shredded shredded breast
breast the cooked eggs in tartlets of chicken and cipes cèpes (or small small
cultivated cultivated mushrooms) mushrooms) mixed of Curry sauce (se (see SAUCE).
with cream. Top with Curry Duchess egp eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or
poached). poacbed). oEurs OEUFS A À LA LA DUcHESSE DUCHESSE Duchess - Arrange
Arrange the the cooked eggs on oval potato potato cakes which which have golden.
Boil down veal veal stock, stock, add butter to it been baked golden. and pour over
over the eggs. eggs . OEUFS A À LA Duxelles eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or
or' poached). poached). oEUFs Duxelles the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on oval oval
crottons croûtons DUXELLES - Arrange the DUxELLEs ham tossed butter and garnished
garnished with wilh thin thin slices slices of ofham lOssed cooked in butter in
butter. butter. Cover Coyer with with Duxelles Duxelles sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE)
with wilh in butter added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley.
parsley . butter Easter eggs. eggs. oELrFIi OEUFS on DE pAeurs PÂQUES - Hard-boiled
eggs with with Easter painted shells; shells ; or sweets made of sugar, chocolate
chocolate dyed or painted elC., shaped like Iike eggs, which which are offered at
Easter. Easter. etc., We may may owe owe Easter Easter eggs eggs to to the lhe
Phoenicians. Phoenicians. They We
*

*-a :ly: '*

'* *'

3lr
EGGS EGGS
believed that that night, night, the the beginning of of everything, everything,
begot begot an an believed egg from from which which came love and came love and
the human human race. race. Towards Towards egg Easter the the sun reaches the the
Equator, sun reaches Equator, the pass, the the long long nights nights pass, the
Easter primeval egg egg breaks, breaks, and and mankind mankind is re-born. is re-
bom. primeval past at In the the past at Easter Easter people were were content
content simply simply to to In exchange dyed dyed or or decorated hens' hens' eggs.
eggs. exchange popular colour The most most popular colour for for Easter Easter
eggs eggs is is bright red. red. The In Germany Germany and parts of and Sorne some
parts of France France eggs eggs used to to be be In garden and hidden in in the
the ga~den and children children would would search search for for them, them,
hidden rejoicing when when they they found found them them in in a a green nest.
nest. Hard boiled eggs can can be dyed in in the following be dyed following ways.
Coral red. red. Boil salted water for salted water for 45 45 minutes minutes with
with a a dash of of Coral lemon (5 oz.) a sachet sachet containing g. (5 containing
150 150 g. oz.) cochineal cochineal for for lem on juice, a 2litres pints,4!pints)
g.(2o2.)alum. water, and and 50 50 g. Cook 2 litres (3f pints, 4t pints) water, (2
oz.) alum. Cook the eggs eggs in this, this, keeping keeping them them on on the
the boil boil for for 12 l2.minutes. the minutes. Drain, dip dip in in cold cold
water water and and dry. dry. Drain, Dark maroon. maroon Cook the eggs, Cook the
eggs, as as described described above, above, in in water water Dark (9 oz.) mixed
with g. (9 udth 250 250 g. oz.) camwood, camwood, and and 1 I teaspoon teaspoon
each each of of mixed and salt. salt. alum and Green. Cook the eggs, as as
described the eggs, described ab above, in water water mixed mixed ove, in Green.
with spinach spinach which which has has been been scalded, scalded, drained
drained and pounded and pounded with in a a mortar. in Yellow. Cook the eggs, as as
described above, in in salted salted water water Yellow. yellow onion peel, a with
yellow a pinch of safron, and and a mixed with a dash dash juice. of lemon juice.
of Modern vegetable vegetable dyes dyes make make colouring colouring eggs eggs a a
simple simple Modern process. process. (cold). OEUFS Eggs à t l'écarlate]
I'ecarlate I (cold). oEUFs À A L'ÉCARLATE r'fc,tnrlrr -- Cover Cover soft-boiled or
poached eggs with with half-set half-set jelly, to to which chopped pickled tongue
has been added. added. Arrange the the eggs jelly. on slices of pickled pickled or
smoked ton tongue. gue. Cover with jelly. (soft-boiled or Eggs i l'écarlate
I'6carlate fi II (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). Eggs à onurs À A
t'6c.lnr.lr[ -- Arrange Arrange the the cooked eggs on croûtons cro0tons fried
L'ÉCARLATE fried in in butter. Cover with (see SAUCE) to with Tomato Tomato sauce
sauce (see butter. Cover to which butter has added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with
diced, diced, smoked, butter has been been added. smoked, or pickled tongue.
pickled tongue. put (sr le plat). OEUFS l'6carlate m Eggs i l'écarlate Itr (sur
oErrFs À A L'ÉCARLATE r'6c,murr -- Put I tablespoon (s* SAUCE) into tat)le~;pC)on
concentrated Tomato sauce (see a butterod heatproof Break in a h"".tnrA.'"\' dish.
Break in the the eggs, eggs, and and sprinkle with pickled or smoked smoked tongue.
tongue. Bake until with finely diced pickled until the white is set. Edward VII
oErrFs EDOUARD EDouARD VU eggs (soft-boiled or poached). l'U;iI\.OIJIOC'U}. OEUFS
vn cooked eggs eggs on VII - Place Place the the cooked on Risotto (see RICE) RICE)
mixed with alternating the with diced diced trufles, truffies, alternating the eggs
with with slivers slivers of pickled or smoked smoked tongue cut in the shape of
cocks' combs and heated neated in sherry. Cover the eggs with concentrated veal
stock with butter added, and and garnish each with a slice of truffie. truffie.
(stufred). oEUFS Elisabeth eggs eggs (stuffed). OEUFS ELTSABETH ELISABETH - Cut Cut
off off the ends of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs so they look like barrels. Take
out the yolks without breaking the whites. Rub the yolks through a fine sieve. Mix
with-an equal a fine sieve. Mix quantity quantity of of thick thick Artichoke purCe
(se (see PUREE). Add chopped truffies, and season. season. Fill the eggs with this
tbis mixture, piling piling it up on top. Place Place each each egg egg on on an an
artichoke heart heart which which has has been stewed stewed in butter. Cover with
Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with grated cheese cheese and melted
butter. Brown the top. Arrange the eggs in a crown on a dish. Fill Fil! the centre
centre with a Ragofrt Ragoût of oftruffles RAGOÛT) cooked cooked in Madeira.
Madeira. truffies (see RAGOOT) Esaii Esaü eggs (soft-boiled or poached). poached).
oEUFs OEUFS esl0 ESAÛ - Arrange the the cooked eggs in a pyramid on Lentil Lent il
purie purée (se (see PUREE). Garnish Gamish with heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons
croûtons frid fried in butter. butter. pour Pour concentrated concentrated veal
veal stock, with butter added, added, over the eggs. Alternatively, arrange the the
eggs eggs on a croustade croustade of of crustless Alternatively, arrange bread,
bread, fried, fried, hollowed hollowed out, out, and and filled filled with with
lentil lenhl pur6e. purée. Cover added. Cover with with concentrated concentrated
veal veal stock with with butter added. Eggs Eggs i à l'espagnoh l'espagnole] OEUFS
A À r'espA,cNorr L'ESPAGNOLE - Cover I (cold). oErrFs
345
Sluffed fennel fennel (Phot. (Phal. Nicolasl Nicolas) Stuffed

the cooked cooked eggs with meat jelly to which tomato jelly has the has been
added. added. Decorate each each with with aa ring ring of of blanched onion. been
onion. pinch of Garnish with with aa pinch parsley, and of chopped chopped parsley,
and cover Garnish cover with with jelly. Arrange half-set jelly. Arrange the the
eggs eggs on on buttered buttered rounds rounds of half-set of toast. toast.
Surround with with small small de-seeded de-seeded tomatoes tomatoes dressed
dressed with with oil, Surround oil, vinegar, salt, salt, and pepper, and and
pepper, and filled fitlod with green with diced diced sweet vinegar, sweet green
pimentos seasoned seasonedà pimentos dla la vin,'1iffrpl,/p vinaigrette. Eggs à i
l'espagnole I'esprgnole fi tr (fried). OEUFS oEUFs À A L'ESPAGNOLE r'nspAcxolr -
Fry Eggs Fry the eggs eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange them them in in aa
crown, crown, alternating alternating with the with halved tomatoes tomatoes fried
fried in in oil. Fitl the oil. Fill the centre centre of of the the dish dish with
halved with onion rings fried fried in in oil. oil. Pour Pour aa ring ring of of
Tomato Tomato sauce on ion rings sauce (see SAUCE) mixed with with a pimentos round
the a salpicon salpicon of of sweet sweet pimentos UCE) mixed SA the
eggs.

in oil oil and and filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of pimentos. Fil!
of sweet sweet pimentos. in Fill the the centre of of the the dish dish with with
onion onion rings rings fried fried in centre in oil. oil. Cover Cover the the (se
SAUCE) eggs with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured
with with red red peppers. Spanish peppers. (slr le Egp à plat). OEUFS A
l'espagnole I'espagnole IV IV (sur le plat). oEUFs À A L'ESPAGNOLE r'BsplcNou -Line
a a fireproof fireproof dish dish with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon chopped Line
chopped onion onion lightly fried frid in in butter butter and and seasoned
seasoned with lightly pepper. with red red Spanish Spanish pepper. Break in in the
the eggs and and cook cook in in the Break the usual usual way. way. Garnish
Garnish with with Tomato fondue FONDUE) mixed Tomato mixed with with diced diced
sweet sweet fon&rc (see FONDUE) pimentos cooked in in butter. butter. Favart eggs
(soft-boiled or poached). oErlFs FAvART Favart Arrange the cooked eggs in small
tartlet cases filled with a Arrange salpicon of of calves' salpicon calves'
sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies truffi.es and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended
with with Velouté Velouti sauce blended sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Fill Fill the the
middle middle with large truffied quenelles. Cover with truffied quenelles. with
(see with Suprême Suprhme sauce sauce (see sAUCE). (soft-boiled or Eggp à la Eggs
la Oamande flamande ] I (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poacbed). oeurs À A LA
FLAMANDE -- Arrange FLAMANDE Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on a a
layer layer of of chicory chicory (U.S. Belgian Belgian endive) (U.S. endive)
cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Cover Cover with with AlleAlle(see SAUCE).
mande or mande or Cream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). poached eggs on
Alternatively, arrange arrange the poached on croûtons crottons fried fried in
butter. butter. Put in Put a a head head of of chicory chicory cooked à d la la
flamande flamande between between each each egg. egg. Boil Boil down down the the
cooking cooking liquor liquor from from the the endives, add add cream, cream, and
and bring bring to to the the boil. Add fresh boil. Add fresh butter butter and and
pour over over the the eggs. (srr le plat). OEUFS Eggs à t la la flamande II (sur
le plat). oEUFs À A LA r.l FLAMANDE rr.lulNDE -This me as This name usually means
means the the sa same Eggs à as Eggs h la la bruxelloise, bruxelloise, poached,
soft-boiled, but but poached, soft-boiled, or or fried fried eggs, eggs, garnished
with with hop hop shoots shoots cooked in in butter butter or or cream cream are
are also called called Eggs Eggs à d la la flamande. flamande. Florentine eggs
(soft-boiled, poached, poached, or or sur srr le le plat). OEUFS oErJFs A r,c,
TToRENTTNE - Arrange the cooked cooked eggs in gratin dishes on a layer of spinach
cooked in in butter. butter. Cover with Mornay (sen SAUCE). Sprinkle sauce (see
gratod cheese Sprinkle with grated cheese and and melted butter, butter, and and
brown brown in in a hot oven. a hot Eggs à la forestière] forestibre I (poached).
OEUFS i la oEUFs À A LA r-l FORESTlÈRE ronnsrrinn -Arrange the the cooked cooked
eggs on on croustades filled filled with with morels fried frid in butter and and
mixed with fried, diced bacon. bacon. Cover the the eggs with with Chateaubriand
Chateaubriand sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped
parsley. parsley. Eggs (nrr le plat). OEUFS Eggs à t la forestière forestibre fi tr
(sur oEr,rFs À A LA r",c, FORESTIÈREronssntRE Garnish Garnish the ovenproof
ovenproof dishes with with diced, diced, blanched blanched bacon, lightly fried
frid in butter. Break put 1 Break in the eggs eggs and put I tablespoon morels,
fried fried in butter, butter, on on each side. side. Cook Cook in in the the oven
oven and and then season. (se SAUCE) round season. Pipe Chateaubriand Chateaubriand
sauce sauce (see round the edges. Georgette (poached). OEUFS Georgette eggs
(poacbed). onurs GEORGETTE cEoRcErrE - Partly potato and put in 1 tables po on
Crayfish hollow out a baked potato I tablespoon la Nantua (see YFISH). Add (see CRA
tail ragofit à d la poached CRAYFISH). Add a a poached with Nantua sauce egg and
cover with sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Parmesan and melted butter. Brown the with
grated Parmesan the top in a hot oven. Grand Duke eggs poacbed). OEUFS (soft-boiled
or poached). Grand eggs ] I (soft-boiled oErJFs GRANDcRAND-

(soft-boiled or Eggs à n l'espagnole I'espagnole poached). OEUFS or poacbed).

(soft-boiled orurs À A t'sspAcNor-E -- Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs
eggs on on tomatoes L'ESPAGNOLE tomatoes cooked cooked

Itr m

rl
EGGS EGGS

,1r.rtil (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Florentine eggs eggs (Robert Florentine

fried in in DUC on oval oval croûtons cro0tons fried eggs on Arrange the the cooked
cooked eggs DUc -- Arrange butter (or pastry shells) of truffie truffie on on (or
on puff pastry with a a sliver sliver of shells) with on puff (se,e SAUCE). with
each. Sprinkle with SAUCE). Sprinkle with Mornay sauce (see each. Cover with hot in
a a hot grated Brown the the tops tops in grated cheese melted butter. and melted
butter. Brown cheese and oven. tips. truffies and and asparagus asparagus tips.
diced truffies oven. Garnish with diced Grand (srr le plat). OEUFS cRAND-DUc -te
plat). oEUFs GRAND-DUC eggs D tr (sur Duke eggs Grand Duke (see sauce (see Cover a
light light Mornay Mornay sauce dishes with a eggs in in their dishes Cover the
eggs SAUCE). grated cheese and melted melted butter. butter. with grated cheese and
Sprinkle with SAUCE). Sprinkle Cook asparawith diced diced truffies truffies and
and asparaGarnish with a hot hot oven. oven. Garnish Cook in a gus gus tips. tips.
Eggs au poached). OEUFS (soft-boiled or AU GRATINGRATIN gratin (soft-boiled or
poached). oEUFs AU au gratin Prepare (see below). eggs (see below). Mornay eggs
llke Mornay Prepare like Halévy (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS slr6w -oEUFs HALÉVY
or poached). eggs (soft-boiled Hal6vy eggs Arrange Garnish in tartlets tartlets
baked baked blind. blind. Garnish eggs in Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs with a
veloutd sauce. sduce. Cover Cover blended with with velouté of chicken chicken
blended a salpicon salpicon of half with which sauce, to to which half with with
tomato tomato sauce, santce, half with allemande allemande sauce, butter added. has
been been added. butter has Hard-boiled cntcon6r -DURs SUR suR CHICORÉE endive.
OEUFS oEUFs DURS eggs witb with endive. Hard-boiled eggs Arrange in endive cooked
cooked in on braised braised endive hard-boiled eggs eggs on Arrange the the hard-
boiled stock stock or veal'stock or aa with concentrated concentrated veaf Cover
with or cream. cream. Cover stock or light UCE). (see SA SAUCE). light Cream sauce
(see Crearn sauce Hard-boiled DURS garnishes. OEUFS oEUFs DURS various garnisbes.
eggs with with various Hard-boiled eggs AVEC eggs and and the hard-boiled hard-
boiled eggs DIVERSEs -- Shell Shell the cARNITuREs DIVERSES AVEc GARNITURES heat
dry them. them. water. Drain Drain and and dry in salted salted boiling boiling
water. heat them thern in Arrange various garnish them in the the various shown in
them as as shown Arrange and and garnish recipes. recipes. Hard-boiled DURS oEUFS
DURS vegetables. OEUFS a macédoine macfioine of of vegetables. eggs on on a Hard-
boiled eggs SUR eggs the hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs Arrange the or LÉGUMES
lEcuuns -- Arrange MAcfDoINB DE suR MACÉDOINE on cream. or cream. with butter
butter or vegetables blended blended with of vegetables on a a macédoine macidoine
of
346 346

pur6es. OEUFS DURs SUR suR oEUFs DURS various purées. Hard-boiled eggs eggs on on
various Hard-boiled served with with a a be served Hard-boiled eggs eggs can can be
- Hard-boiled chicory, mushrooms, chicory, pur6e of carrots, celery, celery,
mushrooms, asparagus, carrots, of asparagus, purée potato, or or Jerusalem
Jerusalem sweet potato, sorrel, sweet lettuce, chestnuts, chestnuts, sorrel,
lettuce, artichokes. artichokes. DURS À A LA LA oEUFs DURS with watercress.
watercress. OEUFS Hard-boiled eggs eggs with Hard-boiled bed of of a bed hard-
boiled eggs eggs on on a Arrange the the hard-boiled cRessoNNtinn -- Arrange
CRESSONNIÈRE (see WATERCRESS). with Cream Cream purie (see Cover with WATERCRESS).
Cover Watercress purée Watercress (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce sorEN TASSE
A LA u HOLTAssE À la hoUandaise. hollandaise. OEUFS oEUFS EN in cups cups à i la
Eggs Eggs in with insides with the insides teacups and and coat coat the Butter 3 3
teacups LANDAISE -- Butter LANDAISE each cup and to each cup and ham to grated
cheese. Add a of diced diced harn layer of cheese. Add a layer grated layer with aa
layer pour in for an an omelette. Cover with whisked as as for omelette. Cover in 1
I egg egg whisked pour 12 for 12 layer of cheese. Cook Cook for a thick thick layer
of cheese. with a ham and and top top with of of harn (see sauce (see Serve with
with Tomato Tomato sauce minutes in in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. Serve minutes
SAUCE). SAUCE). (fried). OEUFS Fry eggs eggs L'ITALIENNE -- Fry onurs À A
L'ITALIENNE I (fried). Eggs Eggs à i l'italienne I'italienne 1 Alternate with with
dish. Alternate on a a round round dish. in a a crown crown on in in oil oil and
and arrange arrange in (see ltalian sauce sauce (see in butter. butter. Pour Pour
Italian ham sautéed saut6ed in thin thin slices slices of of ham SAUCE) over the
the eggs. eggs. SAUCE) over (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS A oelrs À tr (soft-
boiled or poached). Eggs Eggs àt l'italienne l'italienne D and in butter butter and
crustless bread bread in L'ITALIENNE Fry slices slices of of crustless L'ITALIENITE
-- Fry with aa blended with ham blended chopped harn spread salpicon of of chopped
spread with with aa salpicon (se SA Arrange SAUCE). UCE). Arrange Madeira-Havoured
Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace (seeSAUCE) pour Italian
sauce (see SAUCE) ltalian sauce the on top top and and pour the cooked cooked eggs
eggs on with chopped chopped eggs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the eggs. with added,
over over the with butter butter added, parsley. parsley. (srr le A plat or oeurs À
en cocotte). cocotte). OEUFS Eggs Itr (sur le plat or en I'italienne ID EgS àir
l'italienne with orcocottes cocotteswi fireproofdishes dishes or L'ITALIENNE th
Line buttered L'ITALIENNE -- Line buttered fireproof punfEs DIVERSES DIvERSEs
PURÉES

A selection of cheeses (So/exa. Phot. Vilter)

EGGS EGGS

Preparing eggs eggs Preparing

lahollandiase hollandiase àdla

(Claire) (Claire)

Placing the thecups Placing cups inaabain-marie bain-marie in (Claire\ (Claire)

chopped ham. ham. Break in the the eggs Break in eggs and and cook cook in in the
the usuaJ lean, chopped usual (s@ SAUCE) way. Pour Pour a a ring ring of ltaliilt
sauce of Italian sauce (see SAUCE) round round the the way. eggs. eggs. (m
cocotte). Jeannette eggs eggs (en cocotte). OEUFS oEUFs JEANNETTE JEANNETTE EN EN
COCOTTEcocorrr Jeannette Line a a cocotte cocotte with with a a layer layer of of
chicken chicken Quenelle Line Qumelle forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEA
FORCEMEATS). Break in in the the eggs eggs and (see TS). Break and cook cook in in
the the usual way. way. Gamish with asparagus Garnish with asparagus tips. tips.
Surround usual Surround with with (see SAUCE). Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). Velouté
Jellied eggs eggs à i ]a la française. frangaise. OEUFS JeUied oEUFs GLACÉS cLAcEs
À A LA u FRANÇAISE ruNqArsE -IV. as a a border IV. See Eggs as JelHed tarragon
tarragon eggs, eggq also also called Jellied called à I la la Chartres. Chartres.
OEUFS onrrs À A L'EsrRAcoN À A LA r-l GELÉE, L'ESTRAGON cn6s. À A LA r,c, CHARTRES
cHARTRES -- Line Line moulds moulds shaped like like half half an Ids, with shaped
an egg, egg, or or dariole dariole mou moulds, with white white jelly. Decorate
tarragon-flavoured meat meat jelly. tarragon-flavoured Decorate with with blanched
blanched tarragon leaves. (poached or leaves. Arrange Arrange the tarragon the eggs
eggs (poached or soft-boiled) soft-boiled) jelly. Leave on in the the moulds and in
and fiJi fill them them with jelly. on ice ice to to set. set. Turn the eggs out
and arrange Tum arrange them in in a a crown crown formation. formation, jelly.
Decorate jelly Fill Fill the the centre with chopped centre with chopped jeJly.
Decorate with with jelly cro0tons. croûtons. Alternatively, decorate decorate the
the cooked cooked eggs eggs with with tarragon jelly. Arrange them leaves leaves
and and glaze with jelly. them in in a a deep deep dish dish on on th in slices of
cooked ham. If-set jelly. Chili thin ham. Coyer half-set Cover with ha on Chill on
ice before serving. This is serving. This is the the method method most most often
often used used in in restaurants. restaurants. or soft-boiled Poached or Poached
soft-boiled eggs eggs can can also also be be arranged arranged in in cassolettes
lined individual cassolettes individual lined with with thin thin slices slices of
of ham ham and filled with jelly. Jockey-club eggs eggs (sur (mr le Jockey-club
plat). OEUFS le plat). oEUFs JOCKEY-CLUB JocKEy-cLr.JB -Cook the eggs sur le plat.
Trim with with a a cutter, cutter, leaving only white. Place a thin thin band band
of white. a griled croûtons Place the the eggs eggs on on grilled cro0tons spread
with with puree purée of foie foie gras gras and spread and arrange arrange in in a
a crown formation. Fill Fill the the middle of the formation. the dish dish with
with sliced slicod calf's kidney saut6ed sautéed in Madeira. Madeira. Top Top each
each egg egg with with a a sliver sliver of of truffie. truffie. Egg kromeskies
(hard-boiled). onurs OEUFS EN Eg EN CROMESQUIS cRoMEseurs an egg egg croquette
croquette mixture, as for Egg Egg côtelettes, Prepare an as for cdtelettes, adding
truffies and mushrooms. Bind with Allemande sauce adding Allemanfu sauce 3! dt. dl.
(generous (generous j ~ pint, l! cups) (see SAUCE), allowing 3| pint, 1| cups) for
salpicon. Leave Leave the the mixture to cool. 500 g. (18 oz.) salpicon. Divide
into small smalJ portions and and make them into oval Divide oval or or cork-shaped
cakes. Dip in a a light batter and fry fry in in deep deep fat. Gamish with fried
parsley. parsley. Drain, and season season with fine fine salt. Garnish Drain,
Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Serve with with Tomato Serve Egg kromeskies i à la
la polonaise. polonaise. oEuFs OEUFS EN EN cRoMEseurs CROMESQUIS A À Egg LA
poLoNAIsE POLONAISE - Prepare the mixture mixture as as above above and and divide
divide into into LA - Prepare the portions when when cold. Shape Shape into into
rectangles. rectangles. Wrap Wrap each small portions each one in in a a thin thin
crApe crêpe (pancake). Dip Dip in in a a light light batter batter and and fry fry
one deep fat. fat. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato or or Piquante Piquante
sauce sauce (see (see in deep SAUCE). sAUCE). Eggs à la la languedocienne
languedocienne (fried). (fried). onurs OEUFS A À LA raxcueLANGUEEggs

DocIENNE -- Fry DOCIENNE Fry the the eggs eggsin in oil. oil. Arrange Arrangeeach
eachon onaaslice sliceof of aubergine aubergine fried fried in in oil. oil. Fill
Fill the the middle middle of garlicofthe thedish withgarlicdish with f1avoured
flavoured Tomato Tomato fondue. Dot with (see with Noisette Noisette butter butter
(see fondue. Dot BUTTER. BUTTER. Compound Compound butters). but t er s). Eggs -
Line (srr le Eggs à plat). OEUFS i la la lorraine lorraine (sur le plat). ALA m
LORRAINE onursÀ r,onnlNsLine aa buttered buttered ovenproof with thin ovenproof
dish dish with thin rashers rashers of grilledbacon of grilled bacon and slivers of
and slivers of Gruyère cheese. Break Gruydre cheese. Break in in the the eggs.
eggs. Pour Pouraaring ring of of fresh fresh cream yolks and cream round round the
the yolks and bake bakein in the theoyen. oven. Lucullus (soft-boiled or Ilcullus
eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs LUCULLUS LUcuLLUs -
Arrange Arrange each each cooked cooked egg egg on on an an artichoke artichoke
heart heart cooked cooked in in butter garnished with butter and and garnished with
aa salpicon salpicon of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies,
trufres, and and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound bound with with concentrated
concentrated Velouté Velouti UCE). sauce (see SA sauce (see SAUCE). Coyer Cover the
the eggs eggs with with Suprême (see SAUCE) SuprAme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to to
which which coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies truffies have have been been
added. added. Put Put diced diced foie gras which which has has been been seasoned
seasoned with pepper and with salt salt and and pepper and foie gras tossed tossed
in in butter butter in in the the centre centre of of the the dish. dish. Alternate
Alternate the the eggs eggs with with cocks' cocks' combs combs à la Villeroi.
Villeroi. d la Eggs (sr le Eggs à i la la maraichère maralchlre (sur plat). OEUFS
le plat). oEr.rFs À A LA m MARAîcHÈREumdcntnE Line Line an an ovenproof ovenproof
dish with 1 dish with I tablespoon tablespoon chiffonnade (q.v.) chffinnade (q.v.)
of of lettuce, lettuce, sorrel, sorrel, and and chervil, chervil, tossed tossed in
in butter. butter. Break Break in in the the eggs. Add a eggs. Add a thin thin
rasher rasher of of bacon bacon sautéed saut6od in in butter. butter. Bake Bake in
in the the usual usual way. way. Marianne eggs (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled
poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs MARIANNE MARTANNE -Arrange the the cooked cooked
eggs eggs on on de-seeded de-seeded tomato tomato halves halves cooked cooked in in
butter butter and and filled filled with with thick (see FONthick Tomato Tomato
fondue FONfon&te (see DUE). DUE). Top Top each each egg with a egg with slice of a
sJice of black black Madagascar Madagascar potato potato cooked cooked in in
butter, butter, and and coat coat with with Maître Maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter
butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) butters) mixed mixod
with with dissolved dissolved meat jelly. Marivaux eggs UX (soft-boiled or eggs
(soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs MARIVA MARTvA(x Gamish Garnish a a
flan flan case, case, baked baked blind, blind, with with a a salpicon salpicon of
of mushmushrooms and truilles. Arrange the cooked eggs in the flan. rooms and
truffies. Arrange the cooked eggs in the flan. Pour Pour concentrated concentrated
Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE) SAUCE) with with butter butter added, added, over over the the eggs. eggs.
Masséna (soft-boiled or Mass6na eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached).
oEr;Fs MASSÉNA ulssfNl -Place Place each each cooked cooked egg egg on on an an
artichoke artichoke heart heart cooked cooked in in butter garnished with butter
and with thick and gamished thick Béarnaise Bdarnaise sauce (see sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Top Top each poachod marrowbomi each with with a a slice slice of of
poached marrowbond fat. fat. Surround (see SAUCE) Surround with with Marrow Marrow
sauce sauce 1 1(see SAUCE) and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped parsley.
chopped parsley. Massenet Massenet eggs eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS or
poached). oEUFs MASSENETMASsENET Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs into into
croustades croustades made Duchess potato potato made of of Duchess mixture (see
POTATOES) mixture (see POTATOES) and and filled filled with with a a salpicon
salpicon of of French beans French beans dressed dressed with with butter. butter.
Coyer Cover with with Marrow Marrow (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
sauce 1 sauce I (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Eggs (frid). OEUFS Eggs
à n ]a h ménagère m6naglre (fried). oEUFs À A LA r,c, MÉNAGÈRE rvrfr.rA,ctnr -- Fry
Fry the eggs in butter. butter. Arrange the eggs in Arrange them them on on a a bed
pot bed of of stock stock pot vegetables, sliced vegetables, sliced and and sautéed
saut6ed in in butter. butter. Surround Surround with with a a ring of Tomato sauce
(see SAUCE). ring of Tomato sauce (se SAUCE).

347 347
EGGS
Garnish eggs (srr (sur le plat). oEUFs OEUFS MEvERBEER MEYERBEER Meyerbeer eggF -
Garnish Surround with cooked eggs eggs with with grilled grilled lamb's lamb's
kidney. kidney. Surround cooked Périgueux s.auce sauce (see SAUCE). PCrigueux
(fried). oEUFs La ilrIrANtlIs Eggs t à la milanaise milanaise (fried). OEUFS A À LA
MILANAISE - Fry the on a a dish dish on a bed bed of Macaroni Macaroni d à Ia la
eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange in a eggs Tomato and surround surround with with
Tomato milanaise (see (see MACARONI), MACARONI), and
sauce SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Mirette eggs (poached). oeurs OEUFS MIRETTE -
Poach the yolks Mirette baked blind and garnished garni shed only. Place each in a
tartlet case baked

with a salpicon salpicon of chicken breast and trufles truffies blended blended
with
Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Pour Madeira-flavoured thick tlick Velouté
Madeira-fiavoured (se SAUCE) over the eggs. Suprême sauce (see SuprAme Jilr eggs
sur Miroir eggs. eggs. OEUFS MIROIR - Another name for eggs oEUFs MIRoIR
Ie plat. le (soft-bolled or poached). OEUFS oEUFs MoNSELET Monselet MONSELET
Monselef eggs (soft-boiled cooked in the cooked hearts cooked cooked eggs eggs on
on artichoke artichoke hearts Arrange the (se SAUCE), Veloutd sauce sauce (see with
chicken butter. Cover chicken Velouté butter. Cover with of veal stock stock and
the same of its volume ofveal mixed with one third of quantity of cream, flavoured
with sherry and and boiled boiled down. cream, fiavoured in butter, and small diced
truffies cooked in Garnish with with diced truffies cooked butter, and Garnish
potato croquettes. croquettes. MoNroEUFs MONTMontrouge egp eggs 1 I (soft-boiled or
or poached). OEUFS Monhouge tartlet cases cases baked ROUGE the cooked cooked eggs
eggs in in tartlet RoucE - Arrange the (se PURÉE). garnished with PUREE). blind,
and purée (see with Mushroom purie blind, and garnished SAUCE). SuprAme sauce (see
SAUCE). Cover with Suprême (srr le en cocotte). oEuFs Montrouge plat or eggs II II
(sur or en cocotte). OEUFS le plat Monhouge eggs pipe a and pipe dishes and
MONTROUGE Butter the the ovenproof dishes MoNTRoucE - Butter a forcing purée (see
PURÉE) PUREE) through a border of Mushroom purie bag. Break in the eggs. Surround
the yolks with fresh cream. Bake in the oven. lined with the eggs eggs into into a
a cocotte cocotte lined break the . Alternatively, break yolks with (se PURÉE).
Surround the the yolks purée (see Mushroom purie PUREE). Surround oven, in a bain-
marie. fresh cream. cream. Cook in the oven, MoRNAY Mornay eggs I (soft-boiled or
poached). OEUFS oEtrFs MORNAY eggp 1 layer of dish on on a a layer Arrange eggs in
in a a fireproof dish Arrange the cooked cookod eggs fried in in butter. butter.
cro0tons fried Mornay Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) or on croûtons grated cheese and and
Cover sauce. Sprinkle with grated with Mornay sauce. Cover with the oven. melted
butter. Brown the top in the

plat Mornay Momay eggs eggs sur sur le plat

(mr le plat). OEUFS Break the the Mornay eggs 0 tr (sur le plat). oeurs MORNAY
MoRNAy Momay eggs - Break (se Mornay sauce eggs with Mornay sauce (see dish lined
lined with eggs into into an an ovenproof dish SAUCE). sauce. Sprinkle with grated
cheese SAUCE). Cover with the sauce. and and brown in in the oven. and melted
butter, and r.,c, A LA Eggs I (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS oetns À Eggs à t
la la Nantua 1 NANTUA with Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in tartlets
tartlets filled fiUed with - Arrange (see CRA Crayfish YFISH). Cover ragofit à d la
ln Nantua (see tail ragoût CRAYFISH). Crayfish tai! with UCE). Top each a sliver
with Nantua Nanttn sauce (see SA SAUCE). each egg with a of truffie. trufle. (mr le
plat). OEUFS Eggs A LA rl' NANTUA NlNru,l -- Fill Fill h Nantua 0 tr (sur orurs À
EggF à n la a with crayfish tails. tails. Break in in the a buttered ovenproof dish
dish with the buttered ovenproof
348 348

a sliver of truffie eggs and and cook in eggs in the the oven. oven. Put a truffle
on on each yolk. Cover with Nantua sauce (see SAUCE). plat). OEUFS BEITRRE onurs AU
Eggs Eggs with noisette butter (nrr (sur le le plat). AU BEURRE a flameproof dish
until light NoIsErrE NOISETTE Heat the butter in a - Heat brown or noisette. Break
the eggs into the heated butter and bake in the usual usual way. i LA or poached).
OEUFS oEUFs À Egp t la la normande normande (soft-boiled or Eggs à puff pastry
cooked eggs eggs on on puif NoRMANDE NORMANDE Arrange the the cooked - Arrange of
mussels, mushrooms and croustades, filled with a salpicon of (see SAUCE). with
Normande sauce (see SAUCE). shrimps' shrimps' tails, tails, bound bound with
Normande sauce Cover wi with debearded oyster oyster on each egg. Cover Put a
poached poached and debearded th a sliver of truffie. Normande sauce. Top each egg
with a Normande at the end end of this See under separate heading at Onelette
Omelette - See section. section. (srr le plat). OEUFS orurs OPÉRA Eggs opéra opera
(sur op6ru, Eggs - Garnish the cooked with sliced sliced chicken chicken livers
livers sautéed saut6ed in on one one side side with eggs on eggs with asparagus
tips. Surround Madeira, and the other with asparagus tips. and on on tbe Madeira,
veal stock, with butter added. boiled-down veal a ring of boiled-down with a
peRtsrNNE A LA u PARISIENNE le plat). OEUFS oetrs À i la parisienne (sr Eggs à (sur
le with chicken lined with into ovenproof dishes dishes lined Break the eggs eggs
into Break the pickled smoked truffies, and smoked tongue, trufHes, and forcemeat
mixed with pickled in the usual way. way. Surround chopped mushrooms. Cook in
chopped mushrooms. Cook the usual a ring of Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). with a
rARMENTTER Bake 4 4 large Parmentier eggs eggs 1. I. OEUFS oEUFs PARMENTIER
Parmentier large - Bake potatoes in Halve them and scoop out out the pulp, in the
oven. oven. Halve and scoop taking care not to break the skin. Blend the pulp with
butter and season. season. Line the potato skins with this pulp, and cream, and
with cream half. cream and I egg egg into into each each ha Sprinkle with and break
break 1 and If. Sprinkle in the oven. bake in described above, the potatoes as as
described Alternatively, prepare tbe put a poached egg into half. Cover each potato
balf. with Cover witb a poacbed into each and put and (se SAUCE). Sprinkle grated
cheese with grated Mornay sauce sauce (see Sprinkle witb Mornay the oven. and
melted butter and and brown the top in tbe and (sur le plat). OEUFS rARMENTIER n
(sor Parmentier eggs eggs 0 le plat). orurs PARMENTIER Parmentier line diced
potatoes, fried dish and li Butter an ovenproof ovenproof disb Butter ne with diced
with a a ring ring of cream in tbe the eggs. eggs. Surround witb in butter. Break
in and cook in tbe the oven. and poucNAc -(in moulds). A LA r,q, POLIGNAC h
Polignac (in moulds). OEUFS oEUFs À Eggs à n la Eggs dariole moulds, Break the eggs
into into buttered buttered individual individual dariole Break tbe eggs in each.
with a a sliver sliver of trufHe truffie in each. Cook in in a a bain-marie. bain-
marie. UnUnwitb crofitons fried fried in in butter. butter. Top Top with eggs on
onto mould tbe the eggs mould to croûtons (see BUTTER, Maltre d'hôtel butter (see
BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) d'hdtel butter Maître jelly. dissolved meat
jelly. mixed with dissolved A LA porhrgaise 1 rn oeuFs À I (soft-boiled o·r oi
poached). OEUFS Egp à i la la portugaise Eggs poRTUcAIsE - Arrange half each cooked
cooked egg egg on on a a tomato tomato balf PORTUGAISE - Arrange each has been
cooked in oil. oil. Cover witb with Portugaise Portugaise sauce which has cooked in
which (see SAUCE). ponrucelsn (sr le plat). OEUFS portugaise 0 A LA tr (sur u
PORTUGAISE A la Ia portugaise oEuFs À Eggs à on 1 I Break each egg into a buttered
ovenproof dish on Break eacb egg into a buttered ovenproof disb (see FONDUE).
Tomato fondue FONDUE). Cook Cook in in the tablespoon Tomato tablespoon fon&te (see
oven. pRINcEssE poached). OEUFS Princess eggs eggs (soft-boiled or or poached).
oEUFs PRINCESSE Princess puff pastry Arrange tbe the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on
croûtons or in in puff cro0tons or - Arrange (see SAUCE). Cover witb with Suprême
Supr€me sauce sauce (see SAUCE). croustades. croustades. Cover with asparagus tips
tips and and cbicken Garnish witb chicken breasts shredded Garnisb each egg with a
a sliver of trufHe. trufre. strips. Top eacb into julienne strips. into printaniCre
1 A LA osuFs À r,l, la printanière I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS Eggs Eges à i
la pntNtAr.IItRE - Arrange puff pastry a puff the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on a
PRINTANIÈRE - Arrange the (q.v.) of base covered covered with a a printaniere of
vegetables dressed base printanière (q.v.) (see SAUCE) with with cream. cream.
Prepare Prepare Suprême SuprAme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) witb witb with Printanier
butter butter added. added. Pour Pour over over the the eggs. eggs. Garnisb Garnish
witb Printanier in butter. asparagus tips in pRINr,lNdnr -(cold). OEUFS printaniCre
0 tr (cold). A LA u, PRINTANIÈRE Eggs EgS à i la la printanière oEuFs À (soft-
boiled or poached) on Arrange the the eggs eggs (soft-boiled or poached) on a a bed
bed of of Arrange (q.v.) of vegetables dressed with mayonnaise mayonnaise macédoine
macCdoine (q.v.) of vegetables dressod witb gelatine. Gamisb green asparagus with
gelatine. strengthened strengthened with Garnish witb with green asparagus with
tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Cover with tips. tips. Decorate Decorate tbe the
eggs eggs witb Cover with bal f-set jelly. half-set
EGGS
Eggs à i la provengale I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS A ra provençale 1 LA orurs
À pRovENgALEArrange each cooked egg on a halved tornato tomato - Arrange

cooked in oil. oil. Cover clear, garlic-flavotrd Tomato Coyer with with c1ear,
garlic-flavoured Tomalo (see FONDUE). with coarsely coarsely diced fondue (sec
FONDUE). Garnish Garnish with fondue

aubergines fried aubergines fried in oil. oiL Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
parsley. pRovENgALE (srr le plat). OEUFS provengale tr Eggs à i la provençale
onurs.i Eggs li (sor À LA PROVENÇALE individu al ovenproof dishes with garlic and
line hne them thern - Rub individual with slices of aubergines fried in in oil.
aubergines fried Break in the eggs and oiL Sreak bake (see oven. Pour ring of bake
in in the the oyen. Provençale sauce Pour a a ring of Provengale sauce (see SAUCE),
SA UCE), round the yolks. pRowNgALE Eggs à t la provengale ID m (fried). oEUFs A rl
PROVENÇALE (friOO). OEUFS À LA Fry the eggs in oil and arrange each one on a halved
tomato fried in oil. Garnish with slices of of aubergine, aubergine, fried in oil,
and fried parsley. parsley. pnovsNqAlE (fried). OEUFS provengale IV (friOO). i la
provençale Eggs à oEr.rFs À A LA r.l PROVENÇALE Spread thinLy thinly sliced sliced
aubergines, aubergines, fried fried În in oH, oil, on on a a dish. with halved
tomatoes, seeded, and Alternate with tornatoes, pressed, seeded, fried and fried in
oil. oil. Arrange friod eggs eggs on on this this layer, sprinkle with in Arrange
fried layer, and and sprinkle sizzling butter I tablespoon chopped butter to which
1 parsley mixed rnlxed sizzling chopped parsley with chopped chopped garlic has
been added. jelly). onurs (glazed in Eggs à t la la provengale V Eggs V (glazed
OEUFS A À LA in jelly). r,c, pRovENqALB - Coat the eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled
or poached) with PROVENÇALE with tomato-flavoured, gelatine-strengthened
mayonnaise. tomato-l1avoured, gelatîne-strengthened mayonnaise. jelly. Arrange
glaze with and glaze with jelly. Decorate with tarragon leaves leaves and each egg
on a halved tomato, (Ornato, which has been seeded, steeped oil, vinegar, salt salt
and and pepper, in oil, pepper, stuffed with diced diced potatoes and aubergines,
garlic-flavoured mayonaubergines, and dressed with garlic-flavoured and dressed and
garnish with chopped naise. Arrange the eggs in a crown and garnish parsley. Rachel
eggs (fried). OEUFS oEUFs RACHEL - Fry the eggs in butter. RAcHEL Trim with a round
pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, leaving only a thin band of

white. Arrange Arrange each egg on a slice of of bread fried in butter. Coyer Cover
(see SAUCE). Top with with Marrow sauce sauce (sec slice of wilh a a thin thin
slice with marfow. marrow. (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS Eggs à t Ia reine 1 I
(soft-boiled ontns A RErNE Eggs la reine À LA REINEArrange the cooked eggs in in
tartlets tartlets filled with Chicken the cooked filled wHh purie (see PURÉE), (see
PUREE), and coyer cover with with Suprême SuprAme sauce sauce (see

SAUCE). (srr le Eggs t la reine II II (sur le plat or la reine or en en cocotte).

OEUFS orurs A Eggs À rl LA REINEButter the ovenproofegg REINE - Butter ovenproof
egg dishes or cocolles cocottes and pipe a border of Chicken a purée (se PURÉE)
Chicken purie PUREE) through a forcingbag. Break Break in in the the yolks with
thick the eggs. Surround the chicken Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) with cream. Cook in
the oyen. oven. (fried). oEUFs Eggs à la romaine (fried). i la A LA r-l ROMAINE
RorvrlrNr OEUFS À - Fry the eggs in oil. Toss chopped spinach in oil. Toss in
Noisette Noiselle buller butter (se BUTTER, Compound Cornpoundbutters) bUllers) and
mix with diced anchovies. Arrange the on top, with more more noiselle sprinkle with
Arrange the eggs top, and and sprinkle eggs on noisette butter. huiler. Rossini I
(soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS oEUFs ROSSINI RossINI Rossini eggs 1 Arrange a
slice of foie gras saut6ed in Arrange each cooked egg on a gras sautéed în butter.
in butter. Cover butter. Top with 2 slices of truffie truffle tossed in Coyer (se
SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (sec with Madeira-
flavoured Alternatively, arrange the eggs in puff pastry tartlets ]ined lined with
coarsely dicdfoie gras. Garnish with slivers of truffies. trumes. (see Boil down a
Demi-glace sauce a Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace sauce (see Boil down SAUCE), add
butter, and and pour over the eggs. UCE), add SA (srr le plat or en cocotte).
Rossini tr (sur cocotte). OEUFS oEr.rFs ROSSINI Rossrm Rossini eggs U Break eggs
inlo into buttered or cocolles cocottes Break the eggs buttered ovenproof dishes or
gras lined with a salpicon salpicon of foie gras and and trufres. in the trumes.
Bake in lined with a oven. Surround with concentrated Madeira-tl.avoured Madeira-
flavoured Demioyen. glace sauce (see SA UCE) with butter added. SAUCE) Rothomago
eggs (wr le plat). oEUFS RorHoMAco Rothomago (sur le plat). OEUFS ROTHOMAGO - Line
the slices of ham tossed in in butter. ham tossed butter. the ovenproof dishes with
with slîces Break in the eggs and and cook cook in in the usual way. Garnish with
usual way. grilled chipolata chipolata sausages. sausages. Surround Surround with
with Tomalo Tomato sauce grilled SAUCE). (see SA UCE).
349 349

poached). onurs u Eggs li la royale royale (soft-boiled or or poachOO). OEUFS A À

LA Eggs i la pastry cases on puff pastry cooked eggs eggs on cases the cooked -
Arrange the filLed with with a Iruffles blended with with concentrated filled a
salpicon of trufres (see SAUCE). Cover sauce (see COYer Madeira-flavoured Demi-
glace sauce (see SAUCE) Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mixed with with chicken
with chicken Velouté pur6ed truffies with cream cream and diluted with puréed
truffles dîluted and flavoured flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. oEUFs À .i Eggs Il
(soft-boUed or poached). OEUFS i la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert (soft-boiled a pie
Arrange the cooked eggs LA eggs in in a pie dish LA SAINT-HUBERT sAINr-HUBERT -
Arrange on a layer of minced venison or any Coyer with any other game. Cover (see
SAUCE). Garnish game Poivrade sauce with puff sauce (sec Garnish with game pastry
crescents or heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons fried frjed in butter. (soft-boiled
or poached). porched). OEUFS r'6coss.usp osurs A Scotch eggs À L'ÉCOSSAISEeggs 1 I
(soft-boiled on puff pastry Arrange the pastry cro0tes croûtes covered Arrange the
cooked cooked eggs eggs on Coyer with Shrimp sauce with Salmon purCe (see PURÉE).
PUREE). Cover a sliver of trufre. (see SAUCE). Decorate each egg with a truffle.
(colo. OEUFS Make a oELIFs A À r'6coss,llsu L'ÉCOSSAISE Scotcb eggs U tr (cold).
Scotch eggs - Make harn, 2 to 3 pounded forcemeat using finely minced cooked ham,2
and enough enough fresh fresh breadcrumbs breadcrumbs to anchovy to give anchovy
fillets fillets and 'body'. and mixed spices. Sind Bind with salt, salt, pepper,
and 'body'. Season mixed spices. Season with wÎth raw blend well. Shell hard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs and with raw egg and and blend coat each with the forcerneat.
h.,',>r'If"'rllln1 forcemeat. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs and deep-fry in
hot fat. egp See EGGS, Basic egg dishes. &rambled Scrambled eggs - See snouIt.r6s A
oEUFs BROUILLÉS i I'am6ricaine. Scrambled J'américaine. OEUFS À Scrambled eggs à
scrambled eggs, eggs, diced diced bacon L'AM"ÉRICATNe te the bacon r'.lMfnrc^clNr
the scrambled - Add to grilled bacon and with rashers fried in butter. butter.
Garnish Garnish with rashers of grilled fried in halved grilled tomatoes. with
sliced The same same name The name is is used used for for scrambled eggs with for
these I'americaine. Recipes for lobster or lobster à tt l'americaine. lobster or
spiny lobster Scrambled eggs à d I'armoricaine found under under Scrambled will be
found dishes will (see below). A r'lNcreNNE BRouILLfs À &rambled eggs à L 'ANCIENNe
I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. OEUFS oEUFs BROùlLLÉS Scrambled eggs truffles tossed in
butter, to the diced trufres - Add mushrooms and diced scrambled Arrange in a flan
case baked blind. Garnish Garnish scrambled eggs. Arrange Veloutd sauce sauce (see
with in sherry-flavoured Velouté with cocks' (see cocks' kidneys in cocks' combs
combs à d la /a SAUCE) with cocks' with crearn. cream. Surround Surround with
SAUCE) with (se SAUCE). VillerOÎ Villeroi and and sherry-flavoured sherry-flavoured
Suprdme sauce (see Scrambled eggs I ft I'antiboise. oEUFs OElJFS nnouu,rfs
BROUILLÉS A À Scrambled eggs a deep ovenproof L'ANTlBOISE L'ANTIBoIsE scrambled
eggs in a - Arrange scrambled saut6ed in in oil, with sliced sliced courgettes
courgettes sautéed dish, oil, and dish, alternating alternating with a layer of
with Toma 10 fondue fondUl! (see FONDUE). Finish with wÎth a Tomato grated Parmesan
melted butter. Parmesan and and melted Sprinkle wÎth with grated eggs. butter.
eggs. Sprînkle Brown in a a hot oyen. oven. ARGENTEUIL sRouII-rEs ARGIlNTEUIL orurs
BROUILLÉS Scrambled Argenteuil. OEUFS Scrambled eggs Argenteiril. white asparagus
asparagus tips, the scrambled with white scrambled eggs eggs with Garnish the -
Gamish simmered in in butter. water and and then ha If cooked in then simmered half
in salted salted water (sw SAUCE). Decorate with with Cre sauce (see Surround am
sauce Surround with Cream crofftons fried croûtons fried in butter. snouLrfs A
I'arlesienne. oEUFs Scrambled OEUFS BROUILLF-S À eg5 li i l'arlésienne, Scrambled
eggs garlic-flavoured eggs with L'ARLÉSIENNE the eggs with garlic-flavoured
L'ARL6$eNI.rE Scramble the - Scramble courgettes in butter. FONDUE). Cook
courgettes Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). pulp and mix the and rnix Halve rernove the
the chopped pulp Halve them, remove the pulp Fill the halved with the scrambled
halved courgette skins with scrambled eggs. FiJI a buttered fireand put them in a
flrethe scrambled the scramblod egg mixture and grated Pannesan proof with grated
Parmesan and proof dish. and melted melted dish. Sprinkle with (see with TomaLO
Tomato sauce (see butter. the top. top. Surround Surround with butter. Brown the
SAUCE). nnourrfs À .4, I'armoricaine. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLÉS Scranbled eggs i
l'armoricaine. &rambled L'ARMoRIcArrqE L'ARMORICAINE - Arrange the scrambled eggs
in a deep dish, it of Lobster Lobs/er or or Sptny lobster lobs 1er à a salpicon of
alternating with with a r\T~ .. ·rr;n l'américaine Put slices of lobster or spiny
l'amdricaine (see LOBSTER). sauce (see with Americut and surround American sauce
surround wîth lobster on on the eggs and SAUCE). sAUCE). lux snounr6s AUX oEUFs
BROUILLÉS Scrambled Scrambled eggs with artichokes. OEUFS artichoke ARTIcHAUTFMix
the scrambled eggs with cooked artichoke hearts, hearts, sliced or diced, and
saut6ed in butter. butter. in butter. saut6ed in sliced artichoke artichoke hearts
Garnish with with sliced hearts sautéed butter, Garnish
ROY ALE RoyALE
EGGS
and bread bread cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter. butter. Surround with
conCOI')Surround with and

Velouti Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) basod based on fish tish stock and mixed

centrated veal stock. Scrambled eggp eggs i !li la Bercy. oEUFs OEUFS BRoInLus
BROUILLÉS A À LA BERcY BERCY Scrambled the scrambled eggs in in a a deep deep dish.
dish. Garnish Garnish with Arrange the chipolata. sausages, sausages, grilled
grilled or cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Surround Surround chipolata Tomato
sauce sauce (see SA UCE). SAUCE). with Tomato Scrambled eggs with clpes. cèpes.
oEUFs OEUFS BRounrfs BROUILLÉS lux AUX cipss CÈPES Scrambled Sauté sliced cipes
cèpes rn in butter butter or or oil. Add them them to the scrambled scrambled Saut6
eggs. Arrange Arrange in a a deep dish, with the the cipes cèpes in the middle.
middle. eggs. Garnîsh with wilh crofftons croûtons fried fried in in butter.
butter. Surround Surround with Garnish concentrated veal stock. Scrambled wlth
chicken chîcken livers. li 'II ers. oEUFs OEUFS snoulrr6s BROUlUÉS lux AUX
Scrambled eggs with DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE - Heap the the scrambled scrambied eggs
heated FOlES DE eggs on a heated Fotns disb. Garnish Gamish with wilh sliced slîced
chicken livers, livers, saut6ed sauteed in in butter dish. aod bound with with
Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle and witb chopped
parsley. parsley. with &rambled OEUFS nnoutufs BROUILLÉS cLAMART CLAMART eggs
Clamart. oEUFs Scrambld eggs (see PEA). the eggs eggs with wilh Peas d à Ia la
frangaise française (see PEA). Garnish Garnish Mix the with more peas. eggs with
witll crayfish. crayfisll. OEUFS BROUILLÉS AUX oEUFs snout,rfs Scrambled eggs (see
ÉCREVISSES - Prepare Prepare as as Scrambled eggs with shrimps shrimps (see eggs
with fcnsvlssrs (se SAUCE). craynsh tails tads and SAUCE). and Nantua sauce (see
below) using crayfish Scrambled egp'l'6chelle'. 'l'échelle'. onurs OEUFS BROUILLÉS
'L'ÉCHELLE' sRoulrr,fs'L'fcHELLE' Scrambled cheese. Butter an an earthenware
Prepare scrambled eggs with chcese. line it with croû tons of crustless crustless
bread bread fried fried in cro0tons dish and and line bu Her. Cover thick slîces
truffles heated hea ted in in butter bu ner slices of truffies butter. Cover with
thick and seasoned pepper. Put the eggs in the d/sh. dish. and pepper. and seasoned
with salt and Smooth the surface and sprinkle with with grated cheese and surface
and Brown the top. melted butter. Brown Scrambled l'espagnole I. OEUFS rnoutrrfs À
A eggs à I'espagnole oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs L'ESPAGNOLE Fill halved, seeded
seeded tomatoes, cooked in oil, L'EspAGNoH - FiU with scrambled and a sweet
peppers. a salpicon of of sweet with scrambled eggs and Garnish with onioo fried in
in oil. onion rings fried snourrEs À A Scrambled OEUFS orurs BROUILLÉS eggs il
I'espagnole Scrambled eggs L'ESPAGNOLE - Garnish with diced scrambled eggs eggs
with Garnish the scrambled L'EsIAGNoLE a salpicon of sweet oil and mixed with a
cookod in oi! tomatoes cooked pimentos. Top with onion in oil. fried in onion rings
fried ,i. LA rA. snoutrrfs À Scrambled eggs il! oEUFs BROUILLÉS n la forestibre.
OEUFS Scrambled eggs fried FORESntRE scrambled eggs with morels fried the
scrarnbled ronBsrGnr - Garnish the in lean bacon. diced lean bacon. Top chopped
shallot shallot and and diced in butter with chopped with a Demi-glace sauce
Surround wilh with Demi-glace with morels. Surround mound of morels. a mound (see
SAUCE). (see wîth chopped chopped parsley. SAUCE). Sprinkle with cEoRcETTE
Scrambled oEUFs snoutnfs GEORGETTE Scrambled eggs Georgette. OEUFS potatoes. Scoop
out the pulp Bake out three-quarters of the Bake large potatoes. with Crayfish tail
and Crayfish lail Garnish with fill with with scrambled scrambled egg. Garnish and
fiU Nantua (see CRAYFISH). ragofrt à d la Nantua ...... lrllnlhIIPll1 eggs snounrfs
AU lu ham or bacon. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLÉS eggs with harn or bacon. Scrambled (OU
BACON) JAMBON, AU LARD MAIGRE - Add 10 BICON)to the scrambled scrambled AULARD
MATGRE (ou fried. Top eggs, and lightly lightly fried. ham or or bacon, bacon,
blanched blanched and eggs, dîced dicod harn with slices of lightly fried ham or or
rashers of bacon. fried harn rnoutrrfs MASSENET MASSENET Scrambled Massenet. OEUFS
oELtFs BROUILLÉS eggs Massenet. Scrambled eggs with diced artichoke hearts Gamish
eggs with diced artichoke the scrambled scrambled eggs Garnish the garnish furlher
further sautéed rn a a limbale timbale and and garnish Arrange in in butter.
butter. Arrange saut6ed in grcs, slivers of truffie, with small trufle, and and
asparagus small slices of/ole gras, tips. concentrated veal stock. tips. Surround
with conceotrated (various). OEUFS Scrambled mushroom ('IIar:loos). oEUFs eggs
witll with musMooms Scrambled eggs mushBROUILLÉS Add sliced sliced or or diced
diced mushsnouIrrfs AUX Ar-ix CHAMPIGNONS cHAMpIcNoNS - Add pepper, rooms, and
pepper. and seasoned with salt and rooms, sautéed saut6ed in in butter and 10 to
the eggs. Surround mushrooms and and croûtons. cro0tons. Surround Garnish with
sliced musbrooms with concentrated veal stock. concentrated vcal A LA re Scrambled
snourt.fs A i la la Nantua. Nanfua. OEUFS oEuFs 8ROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs à with
diced NANTUA scrambled eggs eggs wilh diced crayfish NANTUA -- Garnish the the
scrambled ragofit à d la la tails with Crayfish Crayfish lail tail ragoût trufres.
Decorate Decorate with tails and and tfllffies. Nantua truffies heated in in
butter. Nantua and and sliced sliced trumes Scrambled normande. OEUFS snouI.rfs À A
LA rl eggs li i la la normande. oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs NORMANDE scrambled
eggs Arrange the scrambled eggs in in a a flan flan case case baked baked NoRMANDE
- Arrange garnished with with blind with shelled shelled mussels mussels bound
bound with and gamÎshed blind and

with with cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with with oysters poached poached in in
their their own liquid and and debearded, debearded, slivers of truffies truffies
tossed tossed in in oil, oil, and
Surround with SAUCE). shrîmps' tails in Shrimp sauce sauce (ser-, (see SA UCE).
Surround wjth shrimps' crofftons croûtons fried in butter, and Normande Normande
sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). panetit!:re. oeuFs OEUFS nnounrfs p,lNsrIiRE
PANETIÈRE Scrambled eggs panetilre. Scramble Scramble the eggs and add mushrooms
mushrooms and diced ham harn fried in butter. Hollow out a round round loaf, like a
croustade. Butter the the inside inside and and brown brown lightly lightly in in
the the oven. oyen. Fill FiU with wilh the scrambled eggs and sprinkle sprinkle
with grated cheese and melted butter. Brown the top. Scrambled eggs Pamentier.
Parmentier. oturs OEUFS nnounrfs BROUILLÉS IARMENTIER PARM'Ef','TIER Scrambted -
Heap Heap the the scrambled eggs eggs on a heated heated plate and and garnish
gamish with diced diced potatoes saut6ed sautéed in butter butter and and rollod
rolled in in meat with jelly. jelly. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Es A &rambled
eggs t à la la perigourdine. onurs OEUl'S nnotrtt,t BROU1LLÉS À r,c, LA Scrambled
eggs pfntcounptxr as for Scrambled PÉRIGOURDINE - Prepare as Scrambled eggs Rossmf
Rossini (see (see added to of foie gran gras and trufres truffles can be he added
below). A salpicon of the scrambled eggs. Scrambled eggs with with potatoes.
potatoes. oEuFs OEUFS BRouILLfs BROUlLLÉS Atx AUX Scrambled eggs poMMEs lt TERRE DE
TERRE - Like Like Scrambled eggs eggs Parmentier. Parmentier. lt POMMES DE boiled
in their skins, peeled, can also be made with potatoes boild saut6ed in butter.
sliced, and sauteed butter. PRINcEssE Scrambled eggs eggs princess. oEUFs OEUFS
nRoulrrfs BROUILLÉS PRINCESSE Scrambled asparagus tips Garnish the the scrambled
eggs with asparagus tips simmered simmered Garnish timbale or in a a flan case
baked butter. Arrange Arrange in a timhale baked blind. in butter. Top with wilh
chicken breast cut into julienne strips and and bound (see SAUCE), and with slivers
slivers of of with Suprême sauce (see with Suprdme sauce Surround with suprAme
truffles tossed in butter. Surround suprême sauce. truffies A LA L.l RE1NE nenm
eggp i t ]a la reine. Scrambled reine. oErJFs OEUFS snoulrrEs BROU1LLÉS À Scrambled
eggs a vol-au-vent case, alternating alternating in rows in a vol-au-vent case,
Arrange the eggs in with Surround with with thick Ch/"cken Chicken purie (se
PURÉE). PUREE). Surround (see SAUCE). Supr€me sauce (sec A LA rA, snoullrfs À eggs
i oEUFs BROUILLÉS à la la romaine. romaine. OEUFS Scrambled eggs ROMAINE RoMAINE -
Scramble the eggs with grated Parmesan cheese. of leaf spinach cooked in butter
Arrange butter and mixed Arrange on a bed bod ofleafspinach grated Parmesan
Parmesan and with with anchovy anchovy fillets. tîllels. Sprinkle with with grated
melted butter. Brown the top. RossINI -oEUFs BROUILLÉS snourrfs ROSS1Nl Scrambled
Rossini. OEUFS Scrambled eggs Rossini. ffan case baked a limhale timbale or in a a
flan Arrange the eggs in a baked blind. gras and with slices of of foie gras and
slivers of truffies heated Garnish witb Madeira-flavoured with concentra
concentrated in butter. Surround with ln butter. Surround ted Madeira-fla voured
SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA Demi-glace UCE). sRoulrrfs SAGAN SAGANoELtFs
BROUILLÉS Scramble Scrambled eggs S€an. OEUFS Scrambled - Scramble in a in a a flan
flan case a limbale timbale or in the eggs with cheese. Arrange in the brains
dredged dredged in in Garnish with escalopes of braÎns baked blind. Garnish with
slivers slivers of truffies in butter, and with of Iruffies flour and and sautéed
saut6ed in ftour butter, and with concentrated veal stock. butter. Surround wîth
heated in butter. sAINTSaint-Hubert. OEUFS oEUFs snoulrrEs SAINTScrambled eggs
Saint-Hubert. Scrambled the scrambled scrambled eggs with game pur6e HUBERT HUBERT
- Garnish the (see SAUCE), based on with Demi-glace sauce (sec bound with bound
Demi-glace sauce concentrated game stock. spiny lobster lobster or with a a
salpicon of lobster, lobster, spiny Scramblcd eggs with Scrambled DE HOMARD HoMAR"D
nnounr6s AU AU SALPICON sALpIcoN DE other shellfish. OEUFS orurs BROUILLEs other
(see (or LANGOUSTE Erc.) As Seramhled Scrambled eggs with shrimps (see r,rNcousrr
ETC.) (DE - As with the shellfish shellfish indicated. Serve with a salpicon of the
below) using a (se SA the wine. Finish with the with white wine. SAUCE) Cream sauce
(see UCE) wilh particular shellfish. shellfish. to the the particular butter
appropriate to butter ltx snoutnfs AUX with shrimps. OEUFS oEUFS BROUILLÉS
Scranbled eggs with peeled shrimps' tails, heated in in butter, butter, ta to
cREvETTEs - Add peeled with a mound of Garnish the top with a mound of the top the
scrambled scrambled eggs. eggs. Garnish the (see sauce (see tails heated heatd in
in butter butter or or in n Sh/'imp Shrimp sauce shrimps' tails shrimps' with
croûtons crottons fried fried in in butter. butter. Pour Pour a a SAUCE). Surround
Surround with SAUCE). the eggs. ring of shrimp sauce sauce round the eggs. of
shrimp lux TRUFFES-' TRUFFES oEUFS BROUILLÉS BRouuEs AUX Scrambled eggs with
tnffl€s. OEUFS When manner. When in the usual manner. scrambled eggs eggs in the
usual Prepare the scrambled Prepare the (Either diced and and tossed in butter.
butter. (Either add the the trumes, truffies, diced tossed in cooked, add platter
on a a warm platter or canned canned truffies can can be used.) Heap on fresh or
350 350

lrx

I.

II.

-
EGGS
and garnish cut to look garnish with with slices slices of of truffies truffies and
crofitons croûtons cut look like

with tarragon veal stock. stock. Decorate Decorate with tarragon-flavoured

tarragon-fiavoured veal
leaves. leaves, blanched and well weil drained. eggs à soubis6e EgS t la also
called eggs i la Eggs à la tripe, tripe, also la bechamd béchamel sou bisée (hard-
boiled). m TRIPE, souBIs6E (hard-boiJed). OEUFS À LA À u LA nEcrHMEL BÉCHAMEL
SOUBISÉE onurs A rRrrr, A or thick slices. Cut hard-boiled eggs into quarters
quarters or thick round round slices. Cut hard-boiled eggs into

wolves'teeth. wolves' teeth. S6vign€ s6vrcr.6 Sévigné eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-
boited or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS SÉVIGNÉ Place each cooked egg on half
Cover with half a braised lettuce. Coyer SuprAme Suprême sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
Top each egg with a sliver of truffie. truffie. Eggs with shrimps I (shirred).
shrimps 1 (shirred). oEUFS OEUFS AUX cREvErrss CREVETTES - Bake the dish with with
I 1 tablespoon the eggs in in a a buttered buttered ovenproof dish shrimp tails. ta
ils. Surround Surround with Shrimp sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs Eggs with
shrimps shrimps tr II (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or poached). onurs OEUFS nux AUX
cREvETTESCREVETTES- Line Line tartlets, tartlets, baked baked blind, blind, with
shrimps blended blended on this with Shrimp sauce (see (see SAUCE). Arrange the
eggs on mixture and and cover coyer with the sauce. sauce. Eggs with shrimps
sbrimps III ID (cold). oEUFs OEUFS Aux AUX cREvErrps CREVETTES - Coat dariole
moulds with fish fish aspic jelly je//y (see (see ASPIC). Line Line the sides with
shrimps' tails. Pour over liquid jelly jelly to sbt set them. them. Place each
mould. Fill with jelly jelly and Place a a soft-boiled egg in each chill chili on
ice. Unmould Unmould the the eggs eggs onto onto grilled grilled cro0tons croûtons
spread spread with Shrimp butter BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Arrange
Arrange bUller (see (see BUTTER, in a crown. Garnish Garnish with diced potatoes
and shrimps' tails, ta ils. dressed with mayonnaise strengthened strengthened with
gelatine. gelatine. Decorate the top of each each egg egg with with three shrimps'
shrimps' tails arranged to look like a plume. Surround Surround the cro0tons
croûtons with fish aspic aspic jelly. jelly.

@''%

dish. Coyer Soubise sauce Arrange in in a a pie pie dish. with Soubise sauce (see
Cover with Arrange SAUCE). SAUCE). Sieve hard-boiled Verdier eggs (stuffed). OEUFS
- Sieve hard-boiled orurs VERDIER foie gras. gras. Stuff Stuff the halves of egg
yolks and mix with cooked cooked foie egg white with this mixture. mixture. layer
of sliced onions cooked Arrange ina Arrange in a gratin gratin dish on a layer
ofsliced in butter, blended with with I 1 tablespoon Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce
(see in SA UCE), and seasoned curry. SAUCE), seasoned with curry. with bichamel
Coyer with béchamel sauce sauce mixed mixed with with a a julienne julienne of
Cover oven. truffies. Sprinkle Parmesan. Brown in a hot oyen. Sprinkle with
Parmesan. oEUFs vIcroRIA Victoria eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boited or poached).
OEUFS VICTORIA Arrange the cooked eggs eggs in in puff pastry pastry cases lined
lined with a of spiny lobster, or lobster, and truffies, bound with salpicon of
salpicon slice of Victoria sauce each egg egg with a a slice sauce (see (see
SAUCE). Top each lobster lobster and a slice of of truffie. truffie. à la la
Villeroi ViUeroi (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). osuFs OEUFS ;,
À I-A. LA Eggs t eggs are used used for this this dish. Coat VILLEROI - Small
cooked eggs vILLERoI with Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and leave to get cold.
cold. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry. fry. Arrange
in in a a crown. Garnish with fried parsley parsley and serve with Tomato Tomato
sauce (see (see Garnish SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Zingaru (soft-boiled Eggs t à b la
Zingara (soft-boited or or poached). oeurs OEUFS A À ul LA - Arrange the cooked
eggs on oval cro0tons croûtons fried ZINGARA in butter and and covered covered with
a thin slice slice of lean ham. ham. Coat in with Zingara sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE).
OMELETTE - The etymology etymology of this word is uncertain. uncertain. It
OMELETTE may corrvption of may have have been been derived derived from amelette, a
a corruption from amelette, alemette, derived from alemelle aleme//e or alumette.
alumette. alemette, The The name ovamellita ova me//ita was was used by by the
Ancient Ancient Romans for honey and cooked in an earthenware earthenware dish.
dish. eggs beaten with honey This derivation seems more logical. Recipes for sweet
(dessert) omelettes omelettes will be found at the end of this section. The recipe
for basic omelettes omelettes appears appears under EGGS, Basic Basic egg egg
dishes. Filled omelettes. OMELETTES rouRn6ns FOURRÉES - Omelettes, Omelettes,
before omelettes. oMELErrrs being being folded, folded, can can be be filled filled
with with various various mixtures mixtures (forcemeat, meat, pur6e, purée,
salpicon), salpicon), as as indicated indicated in individual individual recipes.
The garnish garnish should should be be hot, hot, and and folded folded carefully
into into the omelette. omelette. Flat omelettes. omelettes. oMELErrEs OMELETTES
pLATES PLATES - These are cooked in butter or other other fat, and made made flat
fiat like a thick pancake. pancake. Garnished OMELETTES cARNIES GARNIES - The
garnish, garnish, Garnished omelettes. omelettes. oMELETTES as indicated be added
added while while indicated in individual recipes, can either be the or put put in
in the the omelette omelette when when the eggs eggs are are being being beaten, or
folding folding it. it. In In addition addition to to the the inside inside
filling, a a little of the garnish is usually usually put on top of of the
omelette. omelette. Agnes Sorel omelette. ounrnrrn OMELETTE AGNis AGNÈS soREL SOREL
- Fill Fi]] the omelette with sliced sautéed sliced mushrooms which have been
saut6ed in with Chickm butter and and bound bound with Chicken purie purée (see
(see PUREE). PURÉE). in butter Decorate the top with slices of pickled or smoked
tongue. tongue. Boil down some sorne veal stock, add butter, and pour pour round
the the omelette. - Add diced truffies to the eggs eggs during during Omelette
Albina the omelette in the usual way and and fill with beating. Cook the PURÉE).
Pour Velouti Velouté sauce (see (see thick Chicken Chicken puree purée (see PUREE).
cream round the omelette. omelette. SA UCE) mixed with cream SAUCE) à I'alsacienne
l'alsacienne - Cook the omelette in goose fat, Omelette i and fill with with
braised. braised, well well drained drained sauerkraut. Cover Coyer the and and
surround surround with DemiDemiomelette with thin slices of ham and glace sauce
(see SAUCE). SA UCE). Anchovy omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALrx AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOIS
- Rub Rub the Anchovy fiUets of desalted desalted anchovy through a sieve, and and
add to the fillets
351

Snow Snow eggs eggs (Nrcolas) (Nicolas)

Snow eggs. oEUFS OEUFS A À r.r, LA Nucn NEIGE - Whisk Whisk egg whites and add
sugar, as much much of the meringue sugar, as as for a a meringue. Take as mixture
as 1 tablespoon will hold, which which will give them an as I egg shape, and drop
spoonful spoonful by spoonful spoonful into a saucepan of boiling milk sweetened
with with sugar and and flavoured flavoured with vanilla. Poach the eggs, turning
them so they cook evenly. evenly. When they sieve. they are firm, drain in a fine
sieve. Use the the milk left to make Custard Custard cream (see CREAMS). CREAMS).
Leave Leave to cool. cool. Arrange pour the the custard custard over over them.
them. Arrange the the eggs in a a dish dish and pour Eggp à la soubise soubise
(hard-boiled). (hard-boUed). osuFs OEUFS DURS A À rA LA souBrsn SOUBISE Eggs i
Arrange hard-boiled eggs on Onion soubise (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Coyer
with Cream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Spanislt Spanish eggs - See See
Eggs Eggs d à I'espagnole. l'espagnole. Stanley OEUFS srANLEy STANLEY Stanley eggs
eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or poached). poached). oEUFs Arrange Arrange the
cooked eggs in tartlet tarti et cases baked blind and and filled with Onion soubise
(see with Curry (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Coyer with Curry sauce sauce (see
SAUCE). Tarragon Tarragon eggs eggs (shirred). oruns OEUFS A À r'nsrRl,c,oN
L'ESTRAGON - Break the eggs into a buttered ovenproof dish containing I 1
tablebuttered ovenproof spoon tarragon-flavoured tarragon-fiavoured veal stock.
Cook Cook until until the whites whites are set. Surround Surround with more more
stock. Decorate Decorate with with blanched blanched tarragon. tarragon. Tarragon
Tarragon eggg eggs, also called eggs eggs i à la Chartres (soft-boiled (soft-boited
or poached). OEUFS A À r'nsrRacoN, L'ESTRAGON, A À LA cHARTRES CHARTRES - Arrange
Arrange poachèd). oEUFS the the cooked eggs on cro0tons croûtons fried in in
butter. butter. Cover Coyer thern them with
EGGS
beaten eggs. eggs. Cook Cook the the omelette omelette as as usual. usual. Cut Cut
desalted beaten place on top. anchovy fillets into thin strips and place Omelette
Andr6-Theuriet André-Theoriet - Fill Fil! the omelette with morels à Ia la crhtne.
crème. Serve Serve garnished garnished with with asparagus asparagus tips tips
lightly lightly d cooked in butter, butter, and with slivers slivers of of trufle
trume tossed tossed in the the same same cooked Surround with SuprAme Suprême sauce
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). butter. Surround omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ARcHIDUc ARCHIDUC
- Add chopped Archduke omelette. fried in in butter and and seasoned seasoned with
will paprika, paprika, onion, lightly frid beaten eggs before cooking. cooking.
Garnish Garnish with to the seasoned beaten slivers of truffie surround with trume
heated heated in in butter, butter, and and surround with a slivers paprika sauce.
sauce. Omelette Argenteuil Argenteuilomelette with white - Fill the cooked omelette
put I 1 or green asparagus tips lightly cooked in butter, and put Surround with
Allemande tablespoon asparagus tips on top. Surround (se SAUCE). SAUCE). or Cream
sauce (see sauce ot oMELETTE ALt( Articboke omelette. AUX ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS -
Add Add to Artichoke omelette. OMELETTE eggs, when wh en beating, artichoke hearts
hearts which have have been the eggs, saut6ed in sliced and half-cooked and sautéed
in butter. butter. Cook. Cook. half-cooked then then sliced Serve with artichoke
hearts. of the. Garnish with a a few few of the. artichoke hearts. Serve Garnish
with stock wit_h concentrated veal veal stock with a little little butter butter
added. concentrated oMELETTES ALrx Omelette asparagns tips. Omelette with with
asparagus tips. OMELETIES AUX poINTEs POINTES diced asparagus D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES
- Mix Mix diced asparagus tips, tips, which which have have been eggs. Garnish the
cooked tossed in butter, into the beate,n beaten eggs. sprinkle with omelette with
melted melted butter. omelette with asparagus tips and sprinkle oMELETTE Arrx
Aubergine omelette. Allbergine omelette. OMELETTE AUX AUBERcmrs AUBERGrNES - Place
and surslices of fried fried aubergine on on the the cooked cooked omelette and (se
SA round with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce or TomalO
UCE). oMELETTE AU BAcoN Bacoo BACON tablespoons Bacon omelette. omelette. OMELETTE
- Add 4 tablespoons (* cup) diced bacon, lightly fried friod in butter, (t butter,
to the beaten egg. with thin thin rashers Garnish the the cooked omelette with
Garnish rashers of cooked bacon. bacon. la Bércy Add chopped chopped fines to the
B6rcy - Add Omelette à la fines herbes to grilled or cooked omelette with beaten
egg. the cooked with grilled egg. Garnish Garnish the beaten sausages, and and
surround surround with Tomato saut6ed chipolata chipolata sausages, sautéed Will
Tomalo SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). la bigourdane bigourdane - Fil! Fill the the
omelette with diced Omelette à la (see gras. Serve sauce (see Serve with Madeira
sauce truffles foie gras. truffies and and diced foic sAUCE). SAUCE). A LA r,c,
MOELLE MosrLE - FIat. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE À FiaI. Bone-marrow omelette.
bone-marrow fat, cooked omelette omelette with slices of bone-marrow Garnish the
cooked poached in salt water a little liquid meat water and drained. Spoon a jelly
over each Marrow sauce each slice of marrow and and serve serve with Marrow jelly
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). of bone-marrow bone-marrowfat Fill the omelette
omelettewithasalpicon Fluffy. Fillthe with a salpicon of fat sauce. Garnish with
with slices of marrow with marrow bound marrow sauce. bound with which have been
poached in salted water and drained. Serve with marrow sauce. dicod boneFill the
omelette omelette with diced boneOmelette à i la boucbère bouchbreOmelette - FiJI
jelly. Put poachod and Put and bound with liquid meat jelly. fat, poached marrow
marrow fat, poached marrow marrow slices slices on on top, top, and and spoon spoon
liquid a row row of poached a jelly over the the omelette. meat jelly small
Brussels very small Omelette la bruxelloise bmxelloise - Cook Cook very Omelette à
la done. in salted water until three-quarters three-quarters do sprouts ne. Drain,
dry, sprouts in sprouts into into beaten beate,n eggs eggs before and fry in in
butter. Stir the the sprouts and fry butter. Stir Surround with with concentrated
concentrated veal making the omelette. omelette. Surround ma king the stock.
Omelette à d la la Crécy. Cricy. Se Omelette Carroi Carrot omelette - See Add
sliced sliced lux CÈPES ctprs - Add oMELETTE AUX Omelette with with cèpes. cbpes.
OMELETTE (which have been fried chopped frid in in butter or oil) and and chopped
or oil) cèpes clpes (which parsley to omelette with with Top the the cooked cooked
omelette parsley to the the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Top cèpes. cipes. sauteed
chicken chicken Fill the the omelette omelette with sautéed chasseur Omelelte
Omelette cbasseur - FiU Garnish the the cooked cooked sliced mushrooms. Garnish
livers mixed mixed with with sliced livers Serve will with Chasseur Chasseur same
ingredients. ingredients. Serve omelette with the the same omelette with (se SAUCE)
chopped parsley. and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped SAUCE) and sauce (see Fill the
omelette with with braised the omelette Omelette à la h châtelaine cMtelaine - Fil!
veal stock. stock. concentrated veal chestnuts bound with concentrated and mashed
chestnuts and (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with Cream Cremn sauce (see Serve Serve with
Omelette with wlth chervil. chenil.
oMELETTE OMELETTE AU AU cERFEUIL CERFEUIL BULBEIx BULllEUX -

Add chopped turnip-rooted chervil, cooked in butter, and

sautEed briskly sautéed briskly in in butter butter and and bound bound with with
concentrated Demi-glace sauce sauce (se(sc SAUCE). Top the cooked omelette serve
with with will chicken chic ken livers, livers, as as above, above, and and serve
with MadeiraMadeira(se SAUCE). SAUCE). flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce
(see Omelette Choisy - Fill Fil! the the omelette with with Chffinade Chiffonade of
of with Cream sauce lettuce lelluce with wilh crearn cream (see LETTUCE). LETTUCE).
Serve wilh (see SAUCE). with Peas Omelette Clamart - FiU Omelette Fill the the
omelette omelette with Peas d à Ia la (see PEA) française (see PEA) keeping keeping
the the mixture mixture rather rather thick. frangaise When serving, serving, put I
1 tablespoon of the mixture mixture on top of of the omelette. cooked omelette.
Curgette Courgette omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALIX AUX couRcnrrrs COURGETfES -
Flat. FiaI. saute in butter. Cut Cut the the courgettes in in thin slices and and
sauté butter. Beat the eggs with chopped parsley, parsley, season with salt and
pepper, pepper, and pour over the marrows marrows in the pan. courgettes sautéed
Flufy. saut6edin Fluffy. Fill the the omelette omelette with with the the diced
courgettes in butter butter or oil and mixed with chopped chopped parsley. parsley.
t la Cr€cywith2 Omelette à Créey - Fill the omelette with 2 tablespoons (3
tablespoons) thick (s* PUREE). (3 thick Carrot CarrOI purie purée (sec PURÉE).
Decorate the top with a a row of sliced carrots carrol~ cooked in butter. butter.
Serve (see SAUCE). wth Cream Cremn sauce (see SAUCE). with cnoOroNs Omelette with
crofttons. croBtons. oMELETTE OMELETTE lux AUX CROÛTONS FiaI. - F/ar. Fry chopped
parsley Fry diced bread in butter. Beat the eggs with with chopped parsley omelette
as a pancake. cro0tons. Make over the croÎltons. and pour pour over Make the
omelette pancake. Fluffy. Fry diced bread in butter butter and add to the eggs
while while parsley. Make chopped parsley. them, together beating beating them,
together with with chopped Make the omelette in the usual way. seasoned sliced
mushrooms, fried Omelette Diane Add seasoned fried - Add Fill the omelette omelette
with a salpicon egg. Fill in butter, to to the beaten egg. winged game, and
truffles, truffies, bound of partridge partridge or any other winged (se SAUCE)
based Velouti sauce sauce (see with concentrated Velouté with concentrated based on
(q.v.). Garnish the cooked game fumet (q.v.). a row cooked omelette with a
gamefumet Demi-glace in butter. butter. Serve Serve with slices tossed of trufre of
trume slices tossed in with Demi-glace (se SAUCE) based based on game stock. sauce
(see Make a a flat oMELETTE DIPLOMATE DIrLoMATE - Make Diplomat omelette. omelette.
OMELETTE Diplomat of lobster lobster and and a layer layer of 3 eggs. eggs. Co
Cover omelette with with 3 ver with with a (soe SAUCE) Bichamel sauce sauce (see
with Béchamel trufre salpicon salpicon bound bound with truffle flavoured with
lobster butter and brandy. f1avoured it omelette, keeping it Top this omelette
omelette with another 3-egg omelette, Top (se SAUCE) f1avoured flavoured saace (sec
Mornay sauce Cover with with Mornay creamy. Cover creamy. grated Parmesan and
Parmesan and Sprinkle with with grated lobster butter. with lobster butter.
Sprinkle with a hot hot oven. in a butter, and and brown in melted butter, meltcd
in salted cauliflower flowerets Ihr Barry Barry Omelette Du flowerets in - Boil
cauliflower in the the eggs, fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Pour
Pour in Drain, and and fry water. Drain, water. and with salt salt and chervil and
and seasoned seasoned with beaten will with chopped chopped chervil beaten pepper.
Make pancake omelette omelette and and serve serve with with Cream Make a a pancake
pepper. (sw SA SAUCE). sauce (see UCE). with duxelles Fill the la duxelles duxelles
- Fill the omelette with Omelette à la Omelette (q.v.) mixture to added. Serve
Serve has been been added. diced harn ham has which diced (q.v.) to which (se
SAUCE). SAUCE). Demi-ghce sauce (see tomato-flavoured Demi-glace with tomato-
flavoured eg$ 3 3 tablefermilre Add to the beaten eggs to the I la h fermière
Omelette à - Add (q.v.) of (scant cup) paysanne (q.v.) of vegetables cup) of of a a
paysanne spoons (seant spoons lightly fried onions and celery, celery Iightly
sliced carrots, on composod of sliced composed ions and pepper, and and chopped
seasoned with with salt. salt, pepper, in butter butter and and seasoned in
parsley. (3 tablespoons) lean harn ham lightly lightly tablespoons) diced diced
lean 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 Fry 2 flat pour the make a a flat mixture over,
over, and and make the egg egg mixture in butter, butter, pour in omelette.
omelette. shredded Fill the the omelette with shredded Omelette à la la flamande
Omelette - Fill (U.S. Belgian in butter and and bound Belgian endive) endive)
cooked cooked in chicory (U.S. chicory (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Crean sauce (see with
cream. cream. Serve Serve with with Cream keeping it it Make a a creamy omelette,
kecping Feydeur creamy omelette, Omelette Feydeau - Make (se PURÉE). purie (see
PUREE). Mushroom purée rather liquid. liquid. Fill Fill with with Mushroom rather

some sorne choppod chopped chervil, chervil, to the beaten beaten eggs. Chicken
OMELETTE AUx AUX FoIEs FOIES DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE Chic ken liver live!' omelette.
omelette. oMELETTE Fill the omelette with sliced chicken livers livers which which
have have been

-
-

* I

352 352
EGGS EGGS
as AU HOMARD HoMARD -- Prepare Prepare as oMELETTE AU Lobster omelette. omelette.
OMELETTE Lobster (see below), salpicon of of lobster lobster a salpicon using a
omelette (see below), using Shrimp omelette Shrimp (se SAUCE). SAUCE). bound with
with Lobster sauce sauce (see bound diced Add to beaten eggs eggs diced to the the
beaten I la la lorraine lorraine -- Add Omelette à Omelette and shredded Gruyère
Gruydre cheese, cheese, and saut6ed in lean bacon sautéed in butter, butter,
shredded lean Make a a fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped spring spring onion.
onion. Make chopped diced trufHes truffies with diced Beat the the eggs eggs with
Forest -- Beat Omelette Louis Forest Omelette Louis one of of 2 fiat flat
omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one in butter, and make make 2 cooked cooked in
butter, and gras sautéed cover saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and cover with
slices slices of them them with of freshfoie gras I tablespoon tablespoon
conconSpoon over over 1 with with the second omelette. omelette. Spoon the second
veal stock, stock, and and sprinkle sprinkle Madeira-flavoured veal centrated,
centrated, Madeira-fiavoured (see BUTTER, butters). with BUTTER, Compound Compound
butters). with Noisette lfoisette butter butter (see finely Add to to the the
beaten beaten eggs eggs finely Omelette la lyonnaise lyonnaise -- Add Onelette à i
la parsley. choppod parsley. frid in in butter, and chopped chopped onions, lightly
butter, and lightly fried chopped onions, a few few drops drops Make on the the
omelette omelette a Make a a fiat flat omelette. omelette. Sprinkle Sprinkle on
pour over pan, and it Noisette Noisette ofvinegar same pan, and pour over it heated
in in the of vinegar heated the same (see BUTTER, butter butters). butter (see
BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Omelette omelette with with a a salpicon
salpicon of of Fill the the omelette Omelette Maintenon Maintenon -- Fill Veloutd
sauce chicken, bound with with Velouté sauce chicken, truffies, and mushrooros,
mushrooms, bound truffies, and (see SAUCE) omelette creamy creamy (see Keep the the
omelette with cream. cream. Keep diluted with SAUCE) diluted (see SAUCE) SAUCE)
when Bdchamel sauce sauce (see with Béchamel it. Cover Cover with when cooking
cooking il. grated Pannesan melted with and melted Parmesan and with grated onion,
sprinkle sprinkle with with onion, butter, oven. the oven. in the and brown brown
in butter, and pieces of into Omelette of beef beef into left-over pieces Cut left-
over i la la ménagère m6naglre -- Cut Omelette à quantity of dice of diced diced
Add an an equal equal quantity butter. Add in butter. dice and and fry fry lightly
lightly in on ion, also eggs with with chopped chopped Beat the the eggs in butter.
butter. Beat onion, also cooked cooked in pepper, mix parsley, mix with with the
the other other parsley, season salt and and pepper, season with with salt
ingredients, a fiat flat omelette. omelette. make a ingredients, and and make
Omelette in oil. oil. Fry Fry diced diced aubergines in Mishal. Fry Fry diced diced
aubergines Omelette Mistral. pinch tomatoes parsleyand and aa pinch chopped parsley
add chopped lightly in in butter, butter, add tomatoes lightly of to Add this this
mixture mixture to garlic, and mix with with the the aubergines. aubergines. Add
and mix of garlic, the flat omelette. omelette. make aa fiat beaten eggs eggs and
and make the beaten Omelette of salpicon of the omelette omelette with with aa
salpicon Fill the Monselet -- Fill Omelette Monselet artichoke with slivers Garnish
with slivers artichoke hearts hearts and d la la crème. crime. Garnish and truffies
truffies à of with Madeira-fiavoured Madeira-flavoured of truffies in butter. Serve
with trufres heated heated in butter. Serve Demi-glace (see SAUCE). Demi-glace
sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette gratod horsehorsewith grated Beat the the eggs
eggs with Onelette Montbry Montbry -- Beat radish, parsley, and seasoning. and
seasoning. radish, chopped spring onions, onions, parsley, chopped spring Make
salpicon of of celeriac celeriac one with Make 2 with aasalpicon 2 fiat flat
omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one bound (se SAUCE) and seasoned seasoned with
with SAUCE) and Creun sauce sauce (see bound with with Cream paprika. light
paprika. Cover Spoon light the second second omelette. omelette. Spoon Cover with
with the Mornay grated (see SAUCE) with grated over them, them, sprinkle sprinkle
with Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over Parmesan grill or under the the grill or
melted butter, and brown brown under Parmesan and and melted butter, and in hot
oven. in a a hot oven. Omelette Add to to the Aux MORILLES MoRILLTS - - Add the
oMELETTE AUX with morels. morels. OMELETTE Omelette witb eggs (while beating in
butter, and sauteod in butter, and morels sautéed them) morels eggs (while beating
them) chopped parsley. Make Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped parsley.
Omelette Aux MORILLES MoRJLLES oMELETTE AUX la crème. crbme. OMELETTE Onelette with
with morels moreb ài la À morels à d la Ia crème crime and and, with morels A LA ta
cRÈME cninrm -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with serve (see SAUCE). sauce
(see SAUCE). serve with Cream sauce with Cream Omelette yolks with tablespoons Mix
66egg egg yolks with 22tablespoons Omelette mousseline mousseline -- Mix (3 pepper.
Add Add (3 tablespoons) with salt salt and and pepper. and season season with
tablespoons) cream cream and the Make aa mixture.Make fold into into the
themixture. the stiffiy whisked whites whitesand and fold stifry whisked fiat flat
omelette. omelette. Mushroom Add cHAMPIGNoNS - - Add Aux CHAMPIGNONS omelette.
OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX Mu$room omelette. 2 (3 tablespoons) saut6ed sliced mushrooms,
mushrooms, sautéed tablespoons) sliced 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 in and Make aa
fiat flat omelette omeletteand eggs. Make in butter, to the the beaten beaten eggs.
butter, to decorate slices. row of mushroom slices. of mushroom decorate with with
aa row Omelette with Flat. Beat Beat the theeggs eggs with nanc6ienne -- Flat.
Omelette à i la la nancéienne chopped ion lightly parsley. andchopped chopped
parsley. lightly fried fried in in butter, butter, and chopped on onion Make
pudding, lightly lightly slices of of black black pudding, Make 2 Put slices 2 fiat
flat omelettes. omelettes. Put fried second.Pour Pour withthe thesecond. I omelette
omelette and and cover cover with frid in in butter, butter. on on1 over sprinkle
with with stock, and and sprinkle vealstock, over them them concentrated
concentrated veal Noisette (see BUTTER, buners). BUTTER, Compound Compound
butters). Noisette butter butter (see Fluffy. and onion and fried chopped
choppedonion with lightly lightly fried Flufy. Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with
chopped pudding. pieces of parsley. Fill fried black black pudding. with pieces
offried chopped parsley. Fill with Serve little butter butter has has whichaa!ittle
vealstock stockto towhich Serve with with boiled-down boiled-down veal been
beenadded. added.

Omelette Feydeau Feydeau

Place a row of the cooked cooked omelette. omelette. eggs on on the Place a row of
soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs (see SAUCE) Cover Mornay sauce with a mixed with
SAUCE) mixed a sauce (see Cover with witth Mornay juliennc julienne of grated
Parmesan with grated Parmesan and and of truffies. trufres. Sprinkle Sprinkle with
brown the top. Omelettes aux Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs, eggs, herbes
fines herbes aux fines - Add chopped or parsley, chervil, spring onion onion or and
spring chervil, tarragon, tarragon, and chopped parsley, chives. There make herbs
to to make of these these herbs enough of There should should be be enough chives.
the omelette green. Omelette leaf with leaf Fill the the omelette omelette with la
florentine florentine Omelette à i la - Fill spinach cooked sauce light Mornay
Mornay sauce with a a light cooked in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with (see (see
SAUCE). Sprinkle grated Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown with grated Sprinkle
with quickly. quickly. Omelette à (3 tableforestilre Add 2 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 tablei la la forestière - Add spoons) diced lean bacon, fried in
butter, to the the beaten eggs. eggs. bacon, fried butter, to Fill the have been
sauteed in in Fill the omelette with with morels morels which which have been
sautéed butter, veal stock, stock, and and sprinkled sprinkled butter, bound bound
with with concentrated veal with parsley. Serve has with veal veal stock stock to
to which which has chopped parsley. Serve with with chopped been little butter.
been added added a a little Omelette à gasconne eggs diced diced Add to to the the
beaten beaten eggs i la la gasconne - Add unsmoked ham, lightly fried frid in in
butter, ham, thinly thinly sliced sliced onions onions lightly butter, chopped
garlic and parsley. Make a flat omelette. omelette. chopped garlic and parsley. a
fiat Omelette à Add grecEre Add to eggs chopped chopped to the la grecque the
beaten beaten eggs i la onion pimentos. lightly fried fried in in butter, butter,
and and diced diced sweet sweet pimentos. onion lightly Make layer of mutton hash
hash Make 2 2 fiat flat omelettes, spreading a a layer of mutton omelettes,
spreading between garlic-flavoard Tomato Tomato sauce sauce with garlic-fiavoured
between them. them. Serve Serve with (see parsley and (see SAUCE) and SAUCE) and
sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley and sprinkle Noisette (see BUTTER,
butters). Noisette butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compotmd butters). Ham As
Bacon Bacon omelette, omelette, orr,rprsrrE AU Ham omelette. AU JAMBON JAMBoN -- As
omelette. OMELETTE using using diced diced lean lean ham. ham. Omelette UX JETS DE
HOUBLON HouBLoN AUx JETs DE with bop hop shoots. shoots. OMELETTE oMELETTE A
Omelette with - FiU hop shoots shoots à la crème. crime. Serve Serve with witb Fill
the the omelette d la omelette with with hop Cream (see SAUCE). Cream sauce sauce
(see SAUCE). Hungarian rrc. HONGROISE HoxcnoIm -- Fry oMELETTE À A LA Fry Hungarian
omelette. omelette. OMELETTE diced ham lightly butter. Add Add an an equal equal in
butter. diced unsmoked unsmoked lean lean ham lightly in quantity quantity of with
fried in in butter. butter. Season Season with of diced diced onions, onions, also
also fried paprika. paprika. Add eggs and and make make a a Add this to the the
beaten beaten eggs mixture to this mixture fiat (see SAUCE). pancake. Serve
Hungariut sauce SAUCE). flat pancake. sauce (see Serve with with Hungarian Japanese
A LA u JAPONAISE rlpoNArsn -- Fill Fill the the oMELETTE À Japanese omelette.
omelette. OMELETTE omelette in butter butter and and cooked in omelette with
artichokes cooked with Chinese Chinese artichokes sprinkled (seo parsley. Serve
with Cream Crearn sauce sauce (see sprinkled with chopped parsley. Serve with with
chopped SAUCE). sAUCE). Omelette jardini&re -- Cook turnips, French French Cook
carrots, carrots, turnips, Omelette à la }r jardinière beans, potatoes, etc. peas,
potatoes, stock. Drain, Drain, and and fry fry etc. in in water water or or stock.
beans, peas, lightly make a a fiat flat Add to beaten eggs eggs and and make
lightly in in butter. to the the beaten butter. Add omelette. and caulicauliwith
cooked cooked asparagus asparagus tips tips and omelette. Garnish Garnish with
fiower (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). serve with with Cream Creon sauce flower
fiowerets, flowerets, and and serve Omelette jurassienne -- Add diced lean lean
bacon, bacon, Add scalded, scalded, diced Omelette à I la la jurassienne ions to
lightly to the the sprlng on onions lightly fried frid in in butter, and chopped
chopped spring butter, and beaten rel which has been with sor sorrel which has been
beaten eggs. Fill the the omelette omelette with eggs. Fill cooked in butter.
cooked in butter. Kidney ALrx ROGNONS RocNoNs - Sauté Saut6 diced diced oMELETTE
AUX Kidney omelette. omelette. OMELETTE calfs with MadeiraMadeirain butter and bind
bind with calfs or or lamb's lamb's kidneys kidneys in butter and fiavoured, (se
SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). flavoured, concentrated concentrated
Demi-glace

353 353
EGGS EGGS
poundedparsley parsleyand togetherwith with pounded andchervil. chervil.Make Makea
afiat together flat omelette. omelette. poroNArsn- Fill Polishomelette. omelette.
OMELETTE oMELETTEÀALA r,c,POLONAISE Polisb the - Fillthe omelette with withmutton
muttonhash hashbound boundwith withDemi-glace Demi-glacesauce omelette sauce
(seeSAUCE). SAUCE).Garnish Garnish with withTomato Tomatofondue (seeFONDUE). (see
fondue (see FONDUE). Sprinkle with parsleyand withchopped choppodparsley andserve
Sprinkle withTomato Tomatosauce servewith sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). (see ponrucxg -
- Fill Porfirgueseomelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTEÀALA Portuguese r,l
PORTUGAISE Fill theomelette omelettewith (seeFONDUE) with Tomato Tomatofondue the
FONDUE)and andserve serve fondue(see (saSAUCE). withTomato Tomato sauce sauce (see
SAUCE). with Potato omelette omelette - - See Potato SeOmelette Omelette
Parmentier. Parmentier. pRrNcEssE- Add Princess omelette. omelette. OMELETTE
Princess oMELETTE PRINCESSE green - Add green asparagus tips tips cooked cooked in
inbutter asparagus butterto tothe the beaten beaten eggs. eggs.Garnish Garnish with
truffie with trufre slices withSuprême slices heated heatedin in butter butterand
andserve serve with SuprAme (seeSAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce provengale-- Cook
Omelette à i la la provençale peeled, seeded, Omelette Cook peeled, seeded,and
anddiced diced tomatoes in in butter tomatoes butter or oroil. oil.Season pepper
and Season with with salt saltand and pepper andaa pinch of garlic. Beat pinch of
garlic. poundedparsley theeggs parsley and Beat the eggs with with pounded and
makeaa fiuffy make fluffy omelette, omelette, filling fillingit itwith with the
thetomato tomato mixture. mixture. Omelette à Omelette i la ln romaine. romaine.
Fry Fry chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightlyin inbutter butter parsley. Make
and and add add chopped chopped parsley. Make 22 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes.
Spread Spread one with one with leaf leaf spinach (see spinach cooked cooked in in
Noisette Noisettebutter butter (see BUTTER) and BUTTER) and mixed mixed with with
diced diced anchovy anchovyfillets. fillets. Cover with Coverwith the second second
omelette. the omelette, (see SAUCE) Spoon Spoon Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see
SAUCE) over over the the omelettes, omelettes, grated Parmesan sprinkle sprinkle
with Parmesan and with grated and melted meltod butter, butter, and and brown brown
grill or under under the the grill or in in aa hot hot oven. oven. Omelette
Omelette Rossini Rossini -- Add Add aa salpicon grasand salpicon of of foie and
foie gras truffies trufles to to the the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Garnish Garnish
the flat omelette the fiat omelette with with slices gras and slices offoie oflore
gras and slivers of truffies. with Madeiraslivers of trufres. Serve Servewith
Madeirafiavoured (see SAUCE). flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see
SAUCE). Omelette Omelette à i la ls rouennaise rouennaise -- Fil! Fill the the
omelette omelette with with duck duck liver pur6e. Serve liver purée. Serve with
with red red wine, wine, boiled boiled down down and and blended blended jelly and
with with meat meat jelly and butter. butter. Omelette Omelette à la royale royale
-- Make i la Make aa small small omelette omelette using using eggs eggs mixed
mixed with with truffie pur6e and truffie purée fill it and fill it with with a a
ragoût ragofrt of of cock'scock'scombs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, mushrooms,
mushrooms, and and truffies, trufres, bound bound with with Velouté Velouti sauce
sauce mixed mixed with with cream. cream. Make Make aa second, second, larger
larger omelette omelette with with eggs eggs mixed mixed with with fresh fresh
cream cream and and seasoned seasoned with pepper. Fold with salt salt and and
pepper. Fold it it over over the the smaller smaller omelette omelette and and
garnish with garnish with small small slices gras and slices of of foie and slivers
slivers of of truffies. trufres. /ore gras Serve Serve with port-flavoured Suprême
with port-fiavoured (see SAUCE). SuprAme sauce SAUCE). sauce (see Omelette t la la
Saint-Flour Omelette à Saint-Ftour -- Add Add to to the the eggs, eggs, while while
beating beating them, them, chopped chopped onions onions and and scalded, scalded,
diced diced bacon, bacon, both both lightly fried frid in in lard. lard. Make Make
2 flat omelettes. 2 fiat omelettes. Spread Spread one with one with a a layer
ofbraised, of braised, mashed cabbage cabbage and and cover cover with with the the
second second omelette. omelette. Serve Serve with (ser-, SAUCE). with Tomato
Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette Onelette à i la ta Saint-Hubert Saint-
Hubert -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with a a purée puree of game-
meat bound of game-meat bound with with thick Demi-glace sauce thick Demi-glace
sauce (see (see SAUCE) based based on on concentrated game game stock. stock.
Garnish Garnish with sliced mushrooms lightly fried frid in in butter butter and
and serve serve with with demi-glace demi-glace sauce. sauce. Omelette Omelette
witb with salsify salsify and ad Brussels Bnsseb sprouts, sprouts, caUed called à i
la la maraicbère. maralchlre. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX ALtx SALSIFIS sALsIFIs ET ET
AUX Atx CHOUX cHottx DE DE BR UXELLES, DITE BRTxELLES, nrrs À A LA r-l MARAîCHÈRE
umdcsitnr -- Slice Slice salsify, salsify, cook cook in in court-bouillon, court-
bouillon, cut cvt into into dice, dice, toss toss in in butter, butter, and and
bind bind with with thick thick Velouté Velouti sauce. sauce. Fill Fill a a fiuffy
fluS omelette omelette with with this this and and garnish with with small small
potatoes and and Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts sautéed saut6od in in butter.
Serve with concentrated butter. Serve with concentrated Demi-glace (see Demi-glace
sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to to which which butter butter has has been been added.
added. Omelette de (accordiry to Omelette de Savarin Savarin (according to
Frédéric) Fred6ric) Phil6as - Philéas Gilbert relates relates that that Fr6d6ric,
Frédéric, chef chef de Gilbert de cuisine cuisitu to to an an archbishop,
archbishop, many discussions discussions with with the the directew directeur de
had many de la la table, table, about about Frédéric's Lenten Lenten mortification
mortification dish Fr6d6ric's dish which which was was an' an omelette omelette
filled with with soft soft roes roes and and tunny tunny fish. fish. filled The
roes roes were were cut cut into into thin thin slices slices and and cooked cooked
à meunière. The it la lameuniire. The tunny tunny was was dried dried in in a a
cloth, cio th, cut cut into into a a coarse The coarse salpicon, salpicon,
seasoned, and and simmered simmered in butter. The The eggs eggs were beaten
seasoned, in butter. were beaten
354 3s4

Cheese mousseline mousseline omelette omelette Cheese

Omelette à i la Ia Nantua Nantua -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with
crayfish crayfish tails tails Omelette bound with (se SAUCE). with Nantua Nantua
sauce sattce (see SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with with bound crayfish tails tails and
and slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Serve Serve with with the the sauce.
sauce. crayfish Omelette à I la ln niçoise nigoise -* Mix Mix the the eggs eggs
with with Tomato Tomato fondue Omelette fondue (see FONDUE), FONDUE), chopped
parsley, and chopped parsley, pinch of garlic. and a a pinch of garlic. (see Make a
flat omelette a fiat omelette and garnish with and garnish with anchovies anchovies
arranged arranged in in Make pattern. Sprinkle a criss-cross criss-cross pattern.
(see Sprinkle with with Noisette Norsette butter butter (see a BUTTER, Compound
Compound butters). but ters). BUTTER, i la la normande -- Fill Fill the the
omelette omelette with with a a ragoût ragofit Omelette à of shrimps' shrimps' ta
tails and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with vith Normande Normande of ils and
(set', SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with with debearded debearded
oysters oysters sauce poached in in their their own own liquid, liquid, and and
slivers slivers of of truffies. trufles. Serve Serve poached with normande sauce.
with Okra omelette omelette à i la h créole. cr€ole. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX Arrx
GOMBOS c,oMB6 À A LA LA Okra cn6or-u Add to the eggs, while beating them, them,
diced diced on CRÉOLE ions, onions, - Add peeled and and diced diced sweet sweet
pimentos both of of which peeled which have have been been - both in butter
parsley. Fill and chopped chopped parsley. Fill the cooked in the omelette omelette
- and with okra cooked cookod in in butter and and mixed mixed with with Tomato
Tomato fondue with fondue (see FONDUE) fiavoured flavoured with a a pinch of
garlic. Serve (see FONDUE) Serve with with (see Tomato sauce SAUCE). Tomato (see
Omelette à i la parisiennechoppod onion and chopped Omelette parisienne - Add
chopped chopped mushrooms, saut6ed in in butter, butter, to to the mushrooms, both
both sautéed the beaten beaten eggs. Cover the cooked omelette with chipolata
chipolata sausages cooked in concentratod veal in butter or grilled. Serve with
concentrated veal stock stock to which a little little butter has been added.
Omelette Omelette Parmenticr Parmentier Fry diced potatoes, cooked diced potatoes,
cooked or - Fry raw, in butter and add chopped parsley. Mix them with the beaten a
flat beaten eggs eggs for a fiat omelette or use use them them to to fi.!l fill a a
fiuffy fluffy omelette. omelette. Omelette Omelette I à la paysanne paysanne - Add
to the beaten bea ten eggs chopped sorrel sorrel and and sliced sliced potatoes,
potatoes, both both lightly lightly fried fried in in butter,

Omelette d àla la nanc6ienne nancéienne Omelette

EGGS EGGS
rd .Id mixed mixed with with thick thick cream. cream. The The tunny tunny and and
roes roes were were mixed
Swiss Swiss omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À m LA surss SUISSE - Add Add Emmenthal
Emmenthal to to the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Make Make a a flat flat omelette.
omelette. Omelette Omelette I à la Talleyrad Talleyrand - Add Add to to the the
beaten beaten eggs, eggs, diced diced of and seasoned seasoned with onions lightly
lightly fried in in butter butter and with a a pinch pinch of

rn fi a a shrimp shrimp sauce sauce and and seasoned. seasoned. The omelette
omelette was was filled
with this this sauce sauce and and garnished garnished with with slices of of
truffie truffle or or circled with with with fried fried frogs' frogs' legs. legs.
Omelette i à la savoyarde savoyarde - Fry Fry sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and
and add the the Omelette beaten eggs, eggs, mixed mixed with with shredded shredded
Gruydre Gruyère to the pan. pan. Make beate,n flat omelette. omelette. a flat Sea-
food omeleffe. omelette. oMELETTts OMELETfE Atx AUX FRUITS FRUITS DE MER - Beat
Sea-food eggs with with chopped parsley parsley and chervil, chervil, season with
salt the eggs make 2 flat omelettes. omelettes. and pepper, and make with a ragofrt
ragoût of of mussels, mussels, shrimps, cockles, cockles, and Cover one with other
shellfish, shellfish, bound with Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). Top
other with the the second second omelette, omelette, and and pour pour Creon Cream
sauce sauce (see (see with SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with Shrimp Shrimp
butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, SAUCE) grill or in a Glaze under the grill
Compound butters) over them. G1aze Compound oven. hot oven. cRrvETTEs Shrimp
omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE AI-rx AUX CREVETTES Fill the Shrimp - Fill with Shrimp
sltrimps' tails omelette with with peeled peeled shrimps' tails bound bound with
omelette sauce (se (see SAUCE). Serve Serve with witb the same sauce. sauce
omelette. oMELETTts OMELETTE A À t'osstr,lE L'OSEILLE Sorrel omelette. - Add to the
beaten (* cup) sorrel shredded chifonade shredded into a chiffonade eggs, 4
tablespoons (t and lightly lightly fried in butter. Make a flat omelette. omelette.
Add to to the t'esplcNou -- Add omelette. OMELETTE À L'ESPAGNOLE oMELETTE A Spanish
omelette. or shredded shredded into beaten eggs, pimentos, diced diced or sweet
pimentos, beaten eggs, sweet parsley, and julimne and a julienne strips and cooked
in butter, chopped parsley, butter, chopped pinch of garlic. garlic. Make fiat
omelette. Make a flat omelette. Spinach fpn*lnos -- Sweat Sweat leaf lux ÉPINARDS
oMELETTE AUX Spinach omelette. omelette. OMELETTE a flat spinach eggs. Make a and
mix with the beaten eggs. spinach in butter and omelette. (crawfish omelette).
OMELETTE A LA rA, Spiny lobster omelette (crawfisb otvrstsrrE À LANGOUSTE of using
a a salpicon of Make as as Shrimp omelette, omelette, using rixcousre -- Make spiny
lobster bound flavoured with with Spiny Spdny a sauce sauce flavoured with a spiny
lobster bound with lobster butter (see BUTTER, butters). BUTTER, Compound butters).
Add Spring onion A LA r-l CIBOULETTE ctsouLETTE -- Add oMELETTE À omelette.
OMELETfE onim omelette. make a a flat flat chopped spring and make eggs and to the
the beaten beaten eggs spring onions onions to omelette. omelette. Fill Sweetcom A
LA Lq' CRÈME cRiil,fi -- Fill MAis À oMELETTE AU AU MAïs omelette. OMELETTE
Sweetcorn omelette. (see CORN) serve the omelette and serve in cream CORN) and corn
in crearn (see with Fresh corn omelette with (see SAUCE). with SAUCE). Cream sauce
sauce (see wfih Cream Sweet Doux -Atlx PIMENTS PIMENTS DOUX pimento omelette.
oMELETTE AUX omelette. OMELETfE Sweet pimento Add sweet pimentos shredded sweet
coarsely shredded Add to to the the beaten beaten egg egg coarsely (green, in
(green, yellow yellow or Fry the the flat flat omelette omelette in in oil. oil.
Fry red) cooked cooked in or red) oil. oil. Sweet as PATATES- Prepare Prepare as
potato omelette. Aux PATATESoMELETTE AUX omelette. OMELETfE Sweet potato Omelette
potatoes fried in butter. fried in butter. sweet potatoes using sweet Parmentier
using Omelette Parmentier

cheese cheese and cream

slices curry powder. powder. Make Make a flat flat omelette omelette and and
garnish garnish with with slices and of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads dipped in
egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sauce, saut6ed sautéed in butter. Serve
with with Creon Cream sauce. like roMATEs Tomato omelette. omelette. oMELETTE
OMELETfE AUx AUX TOMATES Prepare Iike - Prepare garlic seasoning. seasoning. omit
the but omit Omelette Omelette h àh la provengale provençale but the garlic Add to
to the Tmffie omelette. Truflle omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A(x AUX TRUFFEs TRUFFES
the - Add Garnish diced truffies lightly beaten eggs, eggs, diced lightly tossed
tossed in in butter. butter. Garnish Serve in butter. butter. Serve tossed in the
flat omelette omelette with slivers of truffie tossed Madeira (see SAUCE) SAUCE)
flavoured with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see flavoured with with Madeira and
trufle truffle essence. lu (Brillat-Savarin's recipe). recipe). OMELETTE olmlurrn
AU Tunny omelette (Brillat-Savarin's Tunny omelette salted slightly salted roes in
in slightly soft carps' roes blanch soft THoN THON - Wash and blanch up finely.
Chop Chop up Drain and chop finely. boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain with a a
small, small, together with the roes, roes, together add to the a piece a piece of
tunny and add in best best butter, butter, mixture in the mixture Saut6 the
shallot. Sauté finely chopped shallot. finely chopped well. blending weil. parsley
and chopped and chopped with parsley Heat a a second piece of butter with Heat dish
a warmed warmed dish mixture onto onto a Pour this this mixture onions. Pour spring
onions. spring juice, and and lemon juice, sprinkle with with lemon the omelette,
omelette, sprinkle for the intended intended for tunny roe and and tunny the roe
and add add the eggs and 12 fresh fresh eggs Beat 12 keep warm. warm. Beat keep and
transfer omelette and long, thick thick omelette Make a a long, mixture to to them.
them. Make mixture recipe is is also also This recipe very hot. hot. This dish.
Serve Serve very it to to the the prepared dish. it dt curé. curd. called Omelette
du called plNlcg6n -_ Beat Beat 3 3 6MELETTE PANACHÉE omelette. OMELETTE Two-
colqrred omelette. Two-coloured pulp, and an make an puree or and make tomato pulp,
or tomato spinach purée eggs with thick spinach semi-liquid. interior semi-Iiquid.
keeping the the interior omelette, keeping omelette, put folding, put When folding,
6 eggs. eggs. When using 6 omelette, using Make another another omelette, Make
lAhirc, Brown, Brown, wjfih White, it. Sur Surround inside it. omelette inside the
smaller smaller omelette the round with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce
(see or Tomato or egg a a to the the beaten beaten egg Add to la verdurière
verduriire -- Add I la Omelette à Omelette chopped in butter, butter, chopped
tossod in lettuce tossed sorrel and and lettuce of sorrel chffinade of chiffonade
and flat omelette omelette and Make a a flat parsley, chervil, tarragon. Make and
tarragon. chervil, and parsley, (see BUTTER). BUTTER). butter (see Noisette butter
sprinkle with with Noisette sprinkle hearts in in courtcourtartichoke hearts 2
diced diced artichoke Cook 2 vivcur -- Cook Omelette viveur Omelette Remove butter.
Remove in clarified clarified butter. fry briskly briskly in draiq and and fry
bouillon, drain, bouillon, diced, blanched, diced, tablespoons blanched, pan and
fry 2 2 tablespoons and fry the pan from the from Drain. same butter. butter.
Drain. celeriac in in the the same celeriac salt and and with salt seasoned with (3
oz.) beef seasoned g. (3 fillet of of beef oz.) diced diced fiUet Fry 75 75 g. Fry
celeriac and celeriac artichokes and Put the the artichokes paprika, in the same
same butter. butter. Put in the paprika, chopped eggs with with chopped pan and the
eggs Beat the mix. Beat and mix. the pan into the back back into pan with other
with the the other pour into the pan into the parsley and and pour and chervil
chervil and parsley flat omelette. omelette. Make a a flat ingredients.
ingredients. Make
D'ENTRE(DESSERT) OMELETTES. otvtsl"srrEs D'ENTREOMELETTES. OMELETTES SWEET SWEET
(DESSERT) METSMETS _ filled omelettes, fiIled Three sm small I la la Célestine
C6lestine -- Three Omelette ail omelettes, Omelette à with dish, sprinkled
sprinkled with row on on a a dish, in a a row arranged in with apricot jam,
arranged with apricotjam, glazed in hot oven. oven. in a a hot sugar and and glazed
fine sugar fine finely sugar, finely eggs with with sugar, Beat the the eggs la
dijoonaise dijonnaise -- Beat Omelette i la Omelette à flat Make 22 flat cream.
Make and double double cream. macaroens, and crushed crushed macaroQns, pastry
French pastry layer of of French thick layer one with with aa thick Spread One
omelettes. omelettes. Spread ground almonds and almonds and (see CREAM) mixed with
with ground cream crecon (see CREAM) mixed jam, and second with the the second and
cover cover with blackcurrant jam, flavoured flavoured with with blackcurrant
sides.Sprinkle Sprinkle and sides. the top top and on the meringue on Spoon
meringue omelette. omelette. Spoon with andserve serve with glaze in hot oven,
oven, and n aavery very hot with sugar,glaze with icing icing sugar, jam.
blackcurrant blackcurrant jam. r-4, FRANGIPANE TnnNcIPANE - A LA oMBLETTESÀ
Frangipane omelettes. OMELETfES Frangipane omelettes. (scantti cup) sugar,22
finesugar, cup) fine with 33tablespoons tablespoons (seant Beat Beat 10 l0 eggs
eggs with (6 dl. (6 and 1I dl. (3 tablespoons) melted butter, butter, and
tablespoons tablespoons) melted tablespoons (3 pinchof salt' ofsalt. Add aasmall
small pinch cup)cream. cream.Add tablespoons, scant 1tablespoons, seant I cup) put
them themon on cooked, put When cooked, Make 0 small flatomelettes. omelettes. When
Make ]l0 small flat of Frangipane Frangipane layet of with aa layer aa baking each
with spread each sheet, spread baking sheet, sprinklewith with (seeCREAM),
ends,sprinkle off the the ends, cut off fold,eut cream CREAM), fold, uecrrn (see
oven. glaze in very hot hotoven. inaavery fine finesugar, sugar,and andglaze

Tomato Tomato omelette omeletteand andbacon bacon

355 355
EGGS EGGS

Norwegian Norwegian omelette omelette or or Baked Baked Alaska Alaska (Ro6ert

(Robert Carrier\ Carrier)

356
EGYPT EGYPT
Jam omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A(rx AUX coNFlruRns CONFITURES - Prepare
Prepare like like Jam Jam and and fruit fruit omelelte omelelle (see (see below)
below) replacing replacing the the fruit fruit by by Jam thick jam. jam. thick Jam
and and fruit fruit omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À r,l LA coNT,ITURE
CONFITURE ET ET AUx AUX Jam FRUlTS - Beat Beat the the eggs with with fine fine
sugar, adding adding a pinch of of FRUITS salt. Cook in butter butter in the the
usual usual way. way. When When folding the the salt. 611 with with the the desired
desired fruit which which is is usually usually cooked cooked omelette, fill en
compote compote in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured syrup, drained, draÎned,
bound bound with with en jam suitable suitable for for the the fruit, fruit, and
flavoured with with liqueur. liqueur. a jam Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar
sugar and glaze glaze under under the the grill or in in a a hot hot Sprinkle Oyen.
oven. Liqueur omelette omelette flanbee. tlambée. oMELETTE OMELETTE Aux AUX
LIeuEuRs L1Ql.Jl::URS Liqueur FLAMBÉE - Rum Rum omelette omelette is is the the
most common of these these rrlrusfr omelettes. Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with
with fine fine sugar, sugar, add add a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, omelettes.
cook the the omelette omelette in in butter, butter, keeprng keeping it it semi-
liquid semi-liquid inside. înside. and cook Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar
sugar and pour pour warmed rum mm over over it. il. Set it il Sprinkle when
serving. serving. alight when Armagnac, Calvados, Cognac, whisky, kirsch and and
other Armagnac, from various varÎous fruits fruits can be used spirits and liqueurs
made from of rum. instead of omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À Lt lA NoRMANDE
NORMANDE Normandy apple omelette. Beat 10 10 eggs eggs with sugar and and fresh
fresh cream. Peel Peel and and cut 3 3 Beat apples into slices. Cook the the apples
apples in butter and cooking apples tahlespoons (} cup) fresh fresh sugar. Add Add
4 tablespoons vanilla-flavoured sugar. (3 tabledouble cream, cream, and and flavour
t'lavour with with 2 2 tablespoons (3 double Make the omelette omelette and fill
with the apple spoons) Calvados. Make mixture. Glaze under the grill and serve with
double cream. (U.S. Bakd A omelette (U.S. Baked Alaska). Alaska). oMernrrr OMELETTE
À Norwegian omelette LA NonvfcIENNE NORVÉGIENNE - The invention of of the r,c, The
invention the omelette omelette à d la Ia American-born physicist, norvegienne is
is attributed to ta an an AmerÎcan-hom norvigienne Benjamin Thompson. But Baron
Baron Brisse, Brisse, writing in in 1866, Benjamin Thompson. But states that a
French chef learnl the secret of ice being ofice cheflearnt being baked Paris with
ln the oven from a Chinese colleague who came to Paris in MissÎon. He describes the
delicate delicale operation: a Chinese Mission. very light it in 'Chili the ice ice
cream untiJ hard, hard, wrap it in a a very 'Chill the cream until pastry crust and
put in a hot oyen. oven. The The pastry paslry is baked before the poor the ice can
mel!. melt. This phenomenon is explained by the can thus Gourmets can substances.
Gourmets of cenain certain substances. conductibility of of biting through
pipinggive themselves the double pleasure ofbiting palate on on contact contact
with the ice hot crust, hot crust, and and cooJing cooling the palate cream.' cm.
C!put a cake 2 cm. of Genoa Genoa cake Alternatively, PUI a piece of @ inch) and
put with liqueur and thick thick on on an an ovenproof dish, sprinkle with the
entire cake with a layer of top. Enclose the the ice cream creirm on top. in a a
very hot Bake in sugar. Bake icing sugar. meringue and and sprinkle with icing oven
meringue quickly becomes golden brown, so that that the the'meringue oven so
penetrate through to the to penetrale but not long enough enougb for the heat to
but Dot ice cream. A LA LA pineapple. OMELETTE oMnrerrr À with pineapple. Norwegian
Norwegian omelette omelette whh in the as described described in NORVÉ'.GIENNE
Proceed as NonvfcrcNNe À A L'ANANAS r'lNlNls -- Proceed cream and ice cream a
filliog preceding recipe, using filling pineapple ice as a using as pineapple
cooked in syrup. fine sugar, sugar, with fine the eggs wilh 'U'llll"''':no::
PedauEre Omelette Reine Pédauque - Beat the ground almonds. flat omelettes.
omelettes. almonds. Make 2 fiat fresh and grollnd fresh cream, cream, and puree
mixed mixd with Spread layer of of apple apple purée a thick thick layer Spread one
one with with a Put the the second kirsch. Put fresh flavoured with with kirsch.
and ftavoured cream and fresh cream of meringue. meringue. a layer of whole with a
omelette cover the whole and coyer omelette on on top and put in until very bot hot
oyen oven until in a a very Sprinkle sugar and and put with icing icing sugar
Sprinkle with golden brown, has set. set. the meringue brown, and and has meringue
is is golden (9 oz., g. (9 oz., 250 g. Blend 250 sotnrrfo -- Blcnd Soufflé oMELETTE
SOUfFLÉE omelette. OMELETIE Soufl6 omelette. generous cup) yolks with vanilla with
vaniJla egg yolks cup) fine fine sugar sugar and and 6 6 egg grated lemon Mix unlil
until the the flavouring or rind. Mix n"'J"",""""fY lemon or or orange orange rind.
or grated mixture turns white and forms forms a a ribbon. white and gently fold
gently into a a very very stitf stiff froth froth and and rold Whisk 8 egg egg
whites whites inlo Whisk 8 mixture. Butler Butter an an ovenproof ovenproof dish
dish and and into into the the above above mixture. mixture fine sugar. pour Pour
in in the the omelette omelette mixture sprinkle it it with with fine (having
reserved and smooth smooth it it with with the the blade blade of of a a reserved a
a little) and piping the the reserved reserved mixture mixture knife. Decorate the
the omelette omelette by by piping

on on it it through Ihrough a a forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Sprinkle with with very

very fine fine sugar sugar
and in a a hot hot oven. oyen. and bake bake in Strawberry StrawbelT)' omelette.
omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALrx AUX FRAISES FRAISES - Make Make an an omelette
omelette with with eggs beaten beaten with with sugar, a a pinch pinch of salt, and
and a a little little cream. cream. Steep strawberries strawberries in in rum, or
kirsch, and sugar, and fold fold them them into into the tbe omelette. omelelle.
Sprinkle with fine

sugar sugar and and glaze glaze under under the the grill. grill. Surround with
crushed strawberries strawberries sprinkled sprinkled with wÎth sugar sugar and and
flavoured with

liqueur. Omelette ........A"' ..:no:: with with zugar. sugar. oMELETTE OMELETTE AU
AU sucRr SUCRE - Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with wilh sugar and a small pinch
pineh of salt. Flavour Flavour the the omelette with with grated grated orange,
orange, lemon lemon or tangerine tangerine rind, rind, sprinkle sprinkle with glaze
the fine fine sugar, and glaze the omelette under under the tbe grill. grill.

FISHES' EGGS. oEUFs OEUFS DE DE polssoNs POISSONS - Eggs Eggs of certain certain
kinds kinds FISHES' EGGS. of of fish fish are are used used for for food. food. The
The most mos! highly highly esteemed esteemcd are are those those of the sturgeon
and and sterlet, which which are used used for preparing preparing caviare. Other
Other edible fishes' fishes' eggs include include those of the shad, of which the
Americans Americans are very fond, and those those of fresh or pickled herring
herring which are delicate in taste. The eggs of various various shellfish are also
edible. edible.
OEUFS OEUFS DE DE REPTILE, REPTILE, onuFs DE ToRruE TORTUE - Reptiles' Reptiles'
eggs eggs are are very little liUle used used in OEUFS DE European European
cookery. They are, are, however, howevcr, much prized by the Arabs and and the the
Indians who who are are particularly particularly fond fond of of the calnnan's
cayman's eggs. Turtle eggs are mainly rnainly used for soup.
SCE AUBERGINE. EGGPLANT EGGPLANT - See

REPTILES' REPTILES' EGGS, EGGS. TURTLE TURTLE EGGS. EGGS.

glass utensil of two Small glass EGG'TIMER. EGG-Tl MER. sABrtnR. SABLIER utensil
made of - SmaU bulbous bulbous glass containers narrowing narrowing in the the
middle, where where they small opening. One of the communicate by means of of a
very 5mall containers has a fixed quantity quantity of sand which passes passes
into the down. It other otner when the egg-timer egg-tîmer is turned turned upside
down. It takes takes 3 minutes to 10 do do this - the Ihe usual usual time allowed
aHowed for soft-boiling an an egg.

ncrrNnnn rose-bush. EGLANTINB EGLANTINE, DOG-ROSE. EGLANTIER WiJd rose-bush. - Wild

and cOl1tain contain about The hips are are red, ovoid, and and elongated, and The
dozen small hairy ossicles. ossicles. a dozen pulp has is used used to to make Hip
pulp has astringent properties, and and is jam. Dog-rose hip preserve is still
sometimes sometimes used used for is still jam. the hips, with with by steeping the
chronic diarrhoea. It is prepared prepared by out, in and cooking and hair scraped
out, the seeds and in white wine, and in sugar. in It lf times times its weight in
the pulp in
to a certain Ecypre influenced [0 EGYPT. ËGYPTE - Egyptian cuisine is influenccd
luxury hotels) Europe (especially in in the the luxury extent by by Ihat that of of
Europe extent source of of inspiration is is Oriental. Oriental. Present but ils
its principal source but than that is as good, if not better, than day Egyptian
gastronomy is of many European countries. from maÎze made from The staple is bread
bread made maae staple diet of of Egyptians is The plenty and Ihere there are are
plenly flour. Vegetables Vegetables are are highly highly esteemed esteemed and
flour. Rice is served both as a dish in in to choose from. from. Riec is servcd
both as a dish of varieties to rozzette) and as a a garnish. its own right right
(such as as the popular rozzelle) ilS seasoned with with mint, mint, is is A
vegetable called called foui midames, seasoned A foul médames, to he their national
national dish. dish. considered by by the the Egyptians Egyptians to be their is
the Molokheya soup, special herb herb seasonîng, seasoning, is the its special
soup, with with its Molokheya national soup. national seasoned rab rabbit or
chicken chicken sozp consists of of a a highly seasoned Green soup bit or grem leaf
garnished with vegetables. chopped green leaf vegetables. stock garnished with
finely finely chopped stock tomato sauce. sauce. It is is eaten eaten with with
rice rice and and tomato Il in Egypt. meat in mutton is is the the favourite
favourite meat Charcoal-grilled mutlon Charcoal-grilled farm work, their flesh
flesh is is very very are used used for for farm work, their Since bullocks
bullocks are Since for stews. stews. tough and and only only suitable suitable for
vegetable. Then Then much appreciated appreciated vegel..able. The bamia bamia is
is another another much just as (sold in potatoes (sold in wÎnter in the the
streets streets in winter just as there are are sweet sweet potatoes there London
and Potatoes roast chestnuts in Paris, Paris, London and Vienna). Vienna). Potatocs
chestnuts are are in roast as, in in fact, fact, are are and Jerusalem Jerusalem
artichokes artichokes are are also also available available as, and in Europe.
Europe. most of of the the vegetables vegetables cultivated cultivated in most
357 357
EGYPTIAN LOTUS GYPTIAN LOTUS

(Maisonet jardin. PhOl. Egg-timers (Maison Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Egg-tirners el

jardin.

There is is a a delicious variety of giant crayfish crayfish fished fished in in

the the There (known by the Italian name, gambari) Red Sea Sea (known gambar) and
and batarekh, batarekh, Red a kind kind oflocal oflocal caviare. a The most typical
cakes cakes are are the the marzipan marzipan baklawa baklawa and and The most
typical konafa; they are Syrian in origin. origin. cultivated Egyptian fruit fruit
is is the the date, date, of of The most widely cultivated which are fifteen are
excellent excellent large, which there are fifteen varieties. There are sweet, and
sugar sugar cane. cane. The The latter is is sold sold in in special sweet, limes,
limes, and shops, shops, the the juice juice being being extracted on the spot for
the customer. Egypt, juice to countries, does does not not use use this this juice
Egypt, unlike unlike other other countries, make rum. There are also grenadines,
alsa oranges, mandarins, grenadines, mangoes, mangoes, bananas, bananas, etc. etc.

EGYPTIAI\ EGYPIIAN LOTUS. LOTUS. Nrrur,rso-Aquatic NELUMBO - Aquatic plant, also

known as as Nile Ni/e lily. li/y. This magnificent magnificent plant, which was was
the the sacred
lotus of ancient Egypt, is now no longer found found on the the Nile, lotus of but
but it it still grows in India and China. Its leaves leaves and roots are edible
and its fruit contains con tains up to thirty kernels which which are very very
delicate delicate in in flavour. fIavour.

EIDER wild duck. EIDER - Species Species of ofwild duck. ELDERBERRY ELDERBERRY
GOURILOS. MoELLE MOELLE DE DE srrREAU SUREAU - After paring outer casing, casing,
green elderberry elderberry stalks stalks paring away away the the woody woody
outer can can be be cooked cooked in in the the same sa me way as artichoke.stalks
artichokestalks or endive endive stumps. stumps.

ELECTRICITY. ELECfRICITY. frpcrucrrf ÉLECTRICITÉ - A form forro of energy energy

which is only only apparent apparent to to our our senses senses when when it it
has has been been converted into into chemical, other chemical, calorific,
calorific, illuminative, illuminative, mechanical, mechanical, or or other
energy. energy.

Electricity Electricity was was first first used used as as a a culinary culinary
aid during during a dinner dinner given given under under the the French French
Restoration, Restoration, when when chickens chickens were were served served that
that had had been been killed killed neither neither by by wringing wringing their
their necks necks nor nor slitting slitting their their throats, throats, a a fact
fact that that excited excited the the curiosity curiosity of the the guests guests
when when they they were were told. told. Upon Upon hearing hearing that that the
the fowls fowls

had been had been electrocuted, electrocuted, they they suddenly suddenly found
found a fine, distinctive a fine, distinctive flavour in flavour in the the flesh.
flesh. Domestic fowls Domestic fowls are are no no longer longer electrocuted,
electrocuted, but but electricity electricity has come has come into into use use
in in the the kitchen kitchen as power for as a a motive motive power for driving
labour-saving devices, driving labour-saving devices, and and as as a heating
medium. a heating medium. Electric Electric cookers cookers are are c1ean clean and
highly efficient, and highly efficient, with with sophistisophisticated cated
temperature control, control, and and offer precision offer maximum maximum
precision preparation of in the the preparation of food. food. The The development
development of of electrical electrical household household equipment equipment has
has made made necessary necessary the the installation installation of high voltage
voltage electrical of high electrical points in the kitchen. The The installation
installation of points should of these these points should be be entrusted
entrusted only qualified electrical only to to qualified electrical experts.
experts. There There should plugs near should be no plugs be no near water water
inlets; inlets; flex flex should should be be chanchannelled nelled through tubes
tubes or or insulated insulated in (all conin other other ways ways (ail
connections nections should should be be carefully carefully insulated, insulated,
certain certain types types of of equipment equipment should should be be earthed,
earthed, etc.). etc.). Loose Loose lengths lengths of flex of Bex should umber of
should be be avoided; avoided; it it is is better better to to increase increase
the the n number of electrical points, sa so that the various pieces pieces of
equipment equipment can can be plugged in be possible to in as as close as as
possible to their their area area of of use. use. The The strength strength of the
the power-feed must must be be sufficient to to allow allow for for in the any
increase in the number of electrical appliances appliances used used at at one
time. Modern electrical Modern electrical equipment, equipment, with with its its
high high level level of of efficiency, is is usually usually safe, efficiency,
safe, but but it it is is advisable advisable to to buy buy from from manufacturers
whose reliable manufacturers goods are whose goods are quality-tested and and
guaranteed. guaranteed. Household and and kitchen kitchen aids be divided Household
aids can can be divided into into two two categories: a a basic basic machine
machine that that operates categories: operates a a number number of of or a a
number number of of appliances appliances, or appliances each each with with its
its own own motor. In large-scale catering (restaurants, institutions, motor. In
large-scale catering (restaurants, institutions, autonomous pressure pressure
cookers, cookers, griddles, etc.) autonomous etc.) griddles, deep-friers, deep-
friers, etc., are are used. used. Appliances Appliances like like beaters, beaters,
mixers, etc., mixers, mincers, mincers, slicers, etc. etc. help help to to cut cut
time time and and labour labour costs. whisks, slicers, costs. These, These,
however, cannot entirely entirely take take the the place of of manual manual
labour: labour: however,

358 358
EN.CAS EN-CAS
they they are are useful useful aids, aîds, no no more. more. And And not not all
al! machines machines are are equipped equipped with with a a sufficient sufficient
number number of of speed speOO variants. variants.
Eminc€s of beef with poiwade sauce. sauce. ErarNcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF for
for Emincis Émincés of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, covering covering the the
meat meal with with Poivrade Poivrade sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE).
Emincds Émincés of of beef bœf with witt Robert Robert souce. ftutNcfs ÉMINCÉS DE
DE BoEUF BOEUf sAUcE SAUCE RoBERT ROBERT - Proceed Proceed as as for for Emincis of
of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, covering the the meat meat with with Robert Robert
sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Enincds of of beef bœf with with tomato
tomato sauce. sauce. ftrltlcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF sAUcE SAUCE ToMATE TOMATE
- Proceed Proceed as as for for Emincds Émincés of beef chasseur, covering covering
the the meat meat with Tomato TomalO sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). After ACter being
being covered with wilh the the sauce sauce indicated, indicated, imincis of of
beef beef can be be garnished garnished in in various various ways. ways. The The
garnishes garnishes most most suited to to these these dishes are: are: saut6 saute
potatoes; gree,n vegetables vegetables tossed in butter butter or or cream; cream.
braised vegetables; pur6es of of lossed in pulses pulses and and chestnuts; pasta
pasta of of various various kinds; rice pilaf pilaf and and risotto. mutton or
nminces Émiocés of ofmuttoo or lamb. 18mb. ErarNcfs ÉMINCÉS oe DE MouroN, MOUTON,
D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Proceed as as for for imincis éminces of of beef, beef, using
using left-over left-over roast roast or or - Proceed braised mutton mutlon or
lamb. lamb. Erninces Émincés of of pork. pork. nr,nNcts ÉMINCÉS DE DE PoRc PORC -
Proceed, Proceed, using using slices slices for dmincis of left-over left-over
pork, pork, as as for émincés of of beef. beef. fninces of poultry. pooltTy.
frrlrNcrs ÉMINCÉS DE DE voLAILLB VOLAILLE - Make Make with with thin thin Émincés
of slices of roast or poached poached left-over left-over poultry. All AH methods
methods of of poultry. of poullry. serving imincis émincés of of beef are are
suitable suitable fot imincds of cream sauces, such They can also be covered with
with white white sauces, such as as cream hongroise' sauce, curry, supréme,
ravigote, ravigote, hongroise. curry, suprime, cHEYREUIT f,ninces of of roebuck.
funNcfs ÊMI.NC~.s DE DE CHEVREUIL .- Proceed, Proceed, fot imincis as for roast
roebuck, of left-over roast using slices of roebuck, as émincés of of using slices
beef. game, can be all This dish, and other ground game, be covered covered with
with ail veneur, ground game, game, e.g. e.g. grand grand veneur, sauces especially
especially suitable for graund romaine. romaine. bntn,llke d brun, DE vEAU
EtvtIxcfs DE Emincds of veal. ÉMINCÉS Émincés VEAU - Prepared, Prepared, à like
poultry. of poultry. imincds of it blanc, blanc,like of beei imincis émincés of
beef, à like émincés
sAUcE as SAUCE poIvRADE POlVRADE - Proceed as

ELEPHAI{T. ELEPHAl'I1'. frfpsnNr ÉLÉPHANT - Elephant Elephant meat meat is IS

edible but but
leathery. leathery. The The trunk trunk and and feet feet are are regarded regarded
as as great great delicacies delicacies in in some sorne Asian Asian countries.
countries.

various in alcohol or wine wine containing contammg a a high provarîous elements

e\ernents in portion of alcohol. alcohol. The The old Codex Codex Pharmacopoera
Pharmacopoeia included portion of large number number of formulae fonnulae for
elixirs. e!ixirs. The present present Codex Codex a large includes among which
which are the the following: following: includes only 6, among Elixir of of cola.
cola. 6rxn. ÉLIXIR DE DE coLA COLA - 50 50 g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) fluid extract extracl
of of Elixir 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) 60" proof alcohol, 100 e. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) plain
plain cola, 100 syrup and 750 g. (l? lb.) Lunel wine. GARUS - Steep I 1 g. vanilla
vanilla and Elixir of Garus. 6t xn DE cARUs g. saffron in I tg. 1 kg. (2* (2! lb.)
spirit of of Garus for 2 2 days. ] oz.) r4aidenhair Infuse Infuse 20 20 e. e (~oz.)
Tr!aidenha ir fern fem in in 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz.) 30 minutes. Add 200 200 g. g.
(7 (7 oz.) distilled distilled boiling water water for 30 boiling 1 kg kg (2+lb.,4f
(2i lb., 41- cups) white sugar. orange-flower water water and and I orange-flower
Mix well. weIl. Add the spirit spirit to this trus syrup. syrup. Leave to cool and
filter. tiHer. Elixir Elixir of of Grande-Chartreuse. Grwde--Chartrwse. 6rtxn
ÉLIXIR os DE LA LA GRANDEGRANDESteep the CHARTREUSE - Steep Ihe following following
for for 8 8 days days in in l0 10 litres lilres cHARTREUsE of (9 (9 quarts, quarts,
ll Il quarts) alcohol:650 alcohol: 650 g. g. (scant (seant l+ 11 lb.) each each of
300 g. fresh melissa melissa leaves leaves and and hyssop hyssop leaves, leaves,
300 g. (11 (II oz.) fresh 50 g. (2 oz.) 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) cinnamon cinnamon pod,
pod, 50 leaves, 150 angelica leaves, 5+ Distil. Add mace and and saffron. saffron.
Distil. Add 1260 126û g. each of mace E. QZ lb., 5t cups) white sugar.
ÉLAN found in northem Europe. The ELK. 6r,.,c,N - Wild ruminant found its flesh and
its existence, and stag in elk is is now now the the largest stag in existence,
flesh is elk deer are are suitable for and fallow edibJe. AH recipes recipes for
stag and fallaw deer edible. All elk.

manufactured by by dissolving dissolving ELIXIR. ELlXJR. 6rDsR ÉLlXJR - Liquid

manufactured

degree of of indicated a a degree This word word once once indicated EMBONPOINT -
This size, but but it fat was in which corpulence in which fat was proportionate to
ta size, it is for slight obesity. a euphemism for as a used as now now commonly
used good food are usually proud of their Connoisseurs of good Connoisseurs food
are their weight might be they although whatever their embonpoint although
embonpoÎnt never admit to being fat. meat. Thinly Thinly sliced, it it left-over
meat. npffnCf ÉMINCÉ - Dish made with left-over a sauce, sauce, such is placed in
an ovenware ovenware dish and covered with a is Robert, ltalian, piquante, Robert,
chasseur, Italian,piquanze, borde laise, mushroom, chasseur, as hordelaise, etc.
Tomato, etc. the sauce heated only only in in the sauce meat must must be be heated
These slices of meat slices of These if roast roast meat meat poured over 1
especially if boil, especially them hem,; they must not bail, are most most
commonly commonly mutton, or or lamb are is used. used. Beer, Beef, roebuck,
mutton, is sometimes sometimes made with poultry. for Ihis this dish dish but but
it it is used for used fir,rmc€s DE DE BOEUF BoEUF sauce. ÉMINCÉS of beef
bordelaise sauce. Eminces of bed with with bordelaise Éminces in a a dish dish and
and slices of of meat in the slices sAUcE BORDELAISE BoRDELAIsE -- Arrange the
SAUCE poached beef garnish with bone-marrow. Cover Cover beef bone-marrow. strips
of of poached with strips gamish (see SAUCE). wth Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce
(see with DE BOEUF BoEUF CHASSEUR cHAssEUR -chasseur. frurucfs DE fminc6s of of
beef bed chasswt. Émincés dish and and cover cover with with boiling of beef beef
on on a a dish Arrange slices slices of Arrange (see SA SAUCE). Chasseur sauce (see
Chasseur UCE). pn BOEUF soeuF À A fivrmcfs DE I lïta]jenoe. l'italienne. ÉMlNCÉS
fnincds of of bœf beef à Émincés for Émincès Emincis of beef chasseur, chasseur,
L'ITALENNE -- Proceed as for Proceed as L'lTALŒNNE ltaliut sauce sauce (se SAUCE).
covering the the meat meat with with ltalian la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. fruwcfs os
sosuF A rA, beef à A hl Eninc6s of of hœf as for for Émincés Emincis of of beef
beef chasseur, chasseur, LyoNNAIsE -- Proceed Proceed as LYOl'<'"NAISE (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Lyonnaise sauce sauce (sec the meat meat with with Lyonnaise covering the
covering DE BOEUF BoEUF AUX Atx nrrrNcfs mushrooms. ÉM fninces of of beef. beef
.with Émincés with IDl.lsbrooms. 1Nets DE on a a dish. dish. Put Put Arrange the
the slices slices of of beef beef on cHAMpIGNoNs -- Arrange CHAMPIGNONS the top of
in butter, on top of the tossed in butter, on mushrooms, tossed or sliced whole or
sliced rnushrooms, whole sauce (se SA SAUCE). Madeira sauce slices. Cover Cover
with with boiling boiling Madeira UCE). slices. DE BOEUF piErante sauce. nrarr.rcrs
DE BoEUF with piquante Eminces of of beef beef witll Émincés pIeuANTE - Proceed
beef chasseur, chasseur, of beef as for for Emincis of sAUcE PIQUANTE SAUCE -
Proceed as (see SA sauce (sec SAUCE). Piquante sauce covering the the meat meat
with with Piquante coverÎng UCE).
359 359
slice to slice meaning ta cookery meaning in French French cookery used in E*ffNCnn
ÉMINCER - Term used and turnips are very t'inely. finely. Carrois Carrots and fruit
very meat, meat, vegetables or fruit pteparation, mushraoms mushrooms when fot a
paysanne finely sliced sliced for finely paysanne preparation, potatoes, sliced
potatoes, Finely sliced butter. Finely in butter. saut6ed in to be are 10 they are
he sautéed iminci. tobe said etc. are also sa apples, etc. id to be émincé.

CHEESE. See CHEESE. EMMENTHAL EMMENTHAL - See

the to all all the referring to French caokery cookery referring in French EMPOTAGE
EMPOT AGE - Term În put in in a a braising pan. ingredients pu! Pan. ingredienls in
a a put various various Ingredients ingredients in to put meaning to EMPIOTER
EMPOTER - Term meanîng pan. stockpot stock pot or braising pan.

ftuurstoN -EMLTLSION. ÉMULSION EMUlSION. drops of of minute drops containing minute

contajoing
suspension.

of milky milky appearance appearance Liquid of Liquid less stable stable in more
more or or less fat in oil or or fat oil

slightly the liquid liquid is is slightly stability when when the Emulsions have
greater stability somewhat viscous viscous consistency. consistency. a sornewhat
and proteid, with with a alkaloid and globules. of cream cream globules. is an an
emulsion emulsion of Milk, for for instance, instance, is Milk, given in to a
mixture in cookery cookery to a mixture is also also given name emulsion emulsion
is The name Tbe yolks, such mayonnaise or or as mayonnaise such as with egg egg
yolks, of oil oil or or butter butter with of hollandaise sauce. sauce. hollandaise
fir,rursloN or milk milk of of almonds. alnonds. ÉMULSION Plain a!mooo alnond
emulsion enulsion or Plain g. (2 (2 oz., oz., 1 cup) D'AMANDEs -- 50 50 g. LAlr
D'AMANDES o'ArrrlNnns, LAIT srMpLE D'A.\fANDES, I cup) SIMPLE (2 oz., g. (2 I cup)
white white sugar, 1 50 g. oz., * cup) sweet almonds, almonds, 50 blanched sweet
blanched quart) distiJled (l* pints, generous quart) water (Codex pints, generous
distilled water litre (Ii litre formula). fonnula). the little water to the and a a
Iinle water ta sugar and the almonds almonds withthe with'the sugar Pound the Paund
paste. Dilute the rest rest of of the the Dilute with with the of a a smoolh smooth
paste. consistency of consistency a sieve. sieve. and rub rub through through a
water and water

is used in France France to to 'in case' used iD meaning 'in case' which which is
Term meaning EN-CAS - Term EN-CAS(usually a kept ready ready in in case case of of
meal) kept meal (usually a cold cold meal) describe a a meal describe

need. need. readiness laid in in readiness a table table was was always always laid
In the the old old châteaux, chiteaux, a ln eighteenth guests. In and eighteenth In
the the sevenleenth seventeenth and for unexpected unexpected guests. for
ENDIVE ENDIVE
centuries the the en en cas cas de denuit nuit was given to was the the name name
given to aa light light centuries meal kept kept in in readiness readiness near
near the the king's king's bedchamber. bedchamber. It It meal consisted of of three
three loaves loaves of of bread, bread, two two bottles bottles of of wine wine and
and aa consisted flask of of water. water. According According to to an an anecdote
anecdote dating dating from from the the flask time of Louis XIV, great king of
Louis XIV, the the great king once once shared shared his lrlrs en-cas en-cas time
Molidre in with Molière in order order to to teach teach his his courtiers
courtiers aa lesson lesson after after with they had had refused refused to to
allow allow the the famous famous dramatist dramatist to to sit sit at at their
their they table. table.
Endiveài la laflamande. flamande.CHICORÉE cgrcoRfEÀ^A. r.a,FLAMANDE rr,lMlNor -
-Trim Endive LA Trimand and wash the theendive. endive.Blanch, Blanch,drain, drain,
and andcook cookititwhole wholein wash inbutter. butter. Finish in inthe thesame
sameway wayas asfor forEndive Endivewith withcream. ueam. Finish gratin.CHICORÉE
Endiveau ur gratin. cnrconfo AU AUGRATIN GRATTN- - Put Putthe Endive thebraised
braised endive in inaafireproof fireproof dish dishand andcover coverwith
Bichamelsauce endive withBéchamel sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle gratedcheese,
Sprinkle with pourmelted with grated cheese, pour (see melted butter over overit,
it, and gently in andbrown browngently inthe theoven. butter oven. jus.CHICORÉE
Endive au aujus. crnconnn AU AUJUS JUS- - Braise Endive Braise the theendive endive
in inbeef beef stock on on aa foundation foundation of (carrots, ofsliced sliced
root root vegetables stock vegetables(carrots, onions, etc.). Strain Strain the the
boiled-down boiled-downliquor on ions, etc.). liquor and andadd addto toitit
several tablespoons tablespoons rich richveal vealstock. stock. several p,c.nrDE
Erdive loaf. loaf. PAIN orCHICORÉEcrnconfr- Combine (generous Endive g.(generous
Combine 500 500g. I lb.) lb.) braised braised endive endive with with 33 beaten 1
beateneggs. eggs.Season Seasonwith withsalt, salt, pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg.
Mix Mix weIl. pepper well.Pour Pour into into aabuttered buttered mould. mould.
Cook in in the the oven oven in in aabain-marie bain-marie for Cook for 25 25
minutes. minutes. Leave Leaveto to cool for for aa few few moments moments before
cool before turning turning it it out outonto ontoaadish. dish. Cover with
Allemandesauce with Allemande (se SAUCE). Cover sauceor or Cream Crectrn sauce
sauce (see SAUCE). Endive au au maigre. maigre. CHICORÉE Endive cnrconfe ÉTUVÉE
Eruvsn AU AU MAIGRE MATcRE - - Blanch Blanch put it the endive, endive, put it in
the in aa colander colander under under the thecold cold tap, tap,drain, drain, and
dry dry it. it. Put Put it it in in aacasserole and casserole with g. (2 with 50 50
g. oz.,tf,cup) cup)butter butter Qoz., (generous 1I lb.) g. (generous for every
every 500 for 500 g. lb.) endive. endive. Season. Season. Moisten Moisten (l pint,
pint, 2! with 6 6 dl. dl. (1 with 2| cups) cups) water, water, and and cook cook in
in the the oven, oven, covered, for for li l| hours. hours. covered, (q.v.) of A
white A white roux roux (q.v.) of flour flour and and butter butter can canbe be
added. added. punrE DE pre€. PURÉE Endive purée. Endive oE CHICORÉE csrconfn -- Rub
Rub braised braised or orstewed stewed endive through endive through aa sieve.
sieve.Add Add Béchamel Bdchamel sauce, sauce, thick thickVelouté Veloutd (se SA
sauce (see UCE), rich sauce SAUCE), rich veal veal stock, stock, or or fresh fresh
butter. butter. To To improve improve the the consistency puree, add consistency of
of this this purée, add a third or a third or aa quarter of quarter potato purée.
of its its weight pur6e. weight of of potato Endive Endive salad. salad. SALADE
slrlnr DE on CHICORÉE crrconm -- See SeeSALAD. SALAD. Endive Endive soufflé.
soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sor.JrFI,f DE (9 oz.) on CHICORÉE cnrcon6n -- Cook g. (9 Cook 250
250 g. oz.) endive endive in in beef beef stock (in butter stock or or au au maigre
maigre (in butter and and water), water), and and sieve. sieve. Combine yolks;
season Combine with with 3 3 egg egg yolks; pepper, season with with salt, salt,
pepper, and and nutmeg; nutmeg; and and add add 3 3 well-whisked well-whiskd egg
egg whites. whites. Pour Pour into into a a buttered buttered soufflé souffi6 dish.
dish. Smooth Smooth the the surface surface and and cook (400'F., Gas cook in in
the the oven oven at at 200°C. 200"C. (400°F., Mark 6) Gas Mark 6) for for 15 15 to
to 18 l8 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve at at once. once. Endive Endive soufflé
soufl6 with with Parmesan. Parmesan. SOUFFLÉ on CHICORÉE souFFr.6 DE cnrconfo AU nu
PARMESAN PARMESAN -- Made Made in in the the same same way way as as Endive Endive
soufflé. souffii.Add Add g. (2 50 50 g. grated Parmesan oz., it cup) atp) grated
Parmesan to to the the soufflé. souffi6. Q oz., pErrrs SOUFFLÉS Little (hot hors
Little endive endive soufflés soufrds (bot hors d'œuvre). dbuwe). PETITS sourrrfs
pe CHICORÉE DE cruconfo -- The The same same as as above. above. Put Put the the
mixture mixture into into individual individual soufflé soufr6 dishes dishes and
and cook cook in in the the oven oven at at 200°C. 200'C. (400'F., Gas (400°F., Gas
Mark Mark 6) 6) 8 8 to to 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Endive Endive subrics. srbrics.
SUBRICS suBRrcs DE os CHICORÉE cHlcoRfo -- Prepared Prepared with with braised
braised endive endive in in the the same same way (see way as as Subrics Subrics of
of spinach spinach (see SPINACH). SPTNACH).

ENDIVE AND AND CHICORY CHICORY ENDIVE l. UJuviers Louviers endive (U.S. chicory)
endive (U.S. chicory) 2. 2. Barbe-de-Capucin Barbe-de-Capucin (wild (wild chicory)
chicory) 1. (U.S. 3. Chicory Belgian endive) (U.S. chicory, 4. Endive (U.S.
chicory, escarole) escarole) 3. Chicory (U.S. Belgian endive) 4. Endive

(U.S. CHICORY). ENDM (V.S. plant CHICORY). CHICORÉE crrconfe -- Genus Genus of
ENDIVE of plant leaves. These are eaten in salads, salads, but can cultivated for
its leaves. can be be braised or stewed stewed in in butter butter as as indicated
indicated in in the braised or the following recipes. is confusion confusion about
about the the names endive endive and There is and chicory. chicory. In endive
usually usually means means the the curly-Ieaved In England England endive curly-
leaved salad plant, generally called called chicory chicory in in the the U.S.A.
plant, generally U.S.A. What What the the French and Americans cali call endive or
Belgian Belgian endive is is called called England. For chicory in For the sake of
clarity in England. the sake clarity we we are are giving preference usage.
preference to the English usage. Endive has very little nutritive value. nutritive
value. Endive with bechamel sauce. CHICORÉE béchamel sauce. crnconm À A LA r,q
BÉCHAMEL sfcnAMrr -Braise in beef stock stock or cook in in salted salted boiling
water. water. Add several tablespoons tablespoons Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see
SAUCE) and sorne some fresh endive. fresh butter to the cooked endive. Braised
gras. crnconfr CHICORÉE BRAlSÉE AU GRAS Braised endive endive au au gras. BRATSEE
AU GRAs Remove Remove any any hard leaves. Cut the rest from the stump. Wash the
the leaves in several clean lots of water, water, drain and and blanch them them
for l0 10 minutes in rapidly boiling salted salted water. Drain, put put under
under the cold co Id tap, press the water from the endive endive and chop chop it
it up up finely. finely. Make Make a a white white roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) For 500
500 g. g. (generous (generous I 1 lb.) endive cup) butter and 50 50 g. (2 oz., ±
cup) endive use use 50 g. (2 oz., * cup) oz.,f flour seasoned with with salt,
pepper, pepper, sugar sugar and grated nutmeg, and moistened moistened with 6 dl.
dl. (l (1 pint, 2t 2± cups) consomm6, consommé, or white stock. stock. Add Add the
the endive. Bring Bring to the boil on the top of white the stove stove and and
then then cook, cook, covered, in in the oven for lj I! hours. the CHICORÉE AU AU
BEURRE BEURREBraise in in beef beefstock Buttered endive. endive. crncon6E hrttered
stock - Braise or cook cook in in boiling boiling salted salted water. water. Add
to the the cooked endive endive or 50 50 to to 75 75 g. g. (2 (2 to to 3 oz., oz.,
f, t to to f cup) butter butter for every 500 g. (generous (generous I 1 lb.) lb.)
of of vegetable. vegetable. cream. csrconfn CHICORÉE A À rn LA cniup CRÈME - Cook
in in the Endive with with cream. Endive same way way as as Buttered Buttered
endive. endive. Finish Finish with with lf 1! dl. $ (i pint, pint, I 1 same cup)
fresh fresh cream. cream. cup)

ENDIVE ENDM GOURILOS. MOELLE rraonlt.n DE DE CHICORÉE cHrcoRfn -- The The stumps
stumps of curly curly endive endive are are often often called called moelles
moelles in in France, France, but but they they are also known gourilos, known as
as gourilos. Blanch Blanch in in salt salt water water containing containing lemon
lemon or vinegar, and or vinegar, and drain weIl. well. Prepare Prepare in various
ways: in butter wayst in butter or or cream in a cream in a covered pan; fried;
(q.v.); grilled; covered pan; grilled; à grecque fried; in fritols d la h grecque
fritots (q.v.); (q.v.);; curried; (q.v.) (See GOURILOS.) curried ; sautéed,
sauteed, etc. etc. (See GOURILOS.)

ENGLISH ENGLISH COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKSee INTERNATIONAL COOK- See ERY.

ENTOLOMA. ENror,orm ENTOLOME - Mushroom of the the agaric agaric family family
ENTOLOMA. - Mushroom of
entoloma is is poisonous poisonous and blue entoloma blue causes gastroenteritis
and causes accompanied by by epigastric vomiting. accompanied epigastric pains and
and vomiting. characterized by by its its pink spores lamellae. The The
blackishspores and characterized and lamellae. blackish-

ENTOMOPHAGOUS. ENroMopHAcB ENTOMOPHAGE - Word ENTOMOPHAGOUS. of Greek Greek - Word

of origin meaning meaning insect-eating. insect-eating. The origin The ancient
ancient Athenians Athenians ate ate grilled cicadas. cicadas. Even Even today today
many many peoples, grilled peoples, including including the the
Arabs and and the the Egyptians, Egyptians, enjoy grasshoppers. The Arabs enjoy
grasshoppers. The Chinese, Chinese, too, eat eat certain certain insects, insects,
caterpillars, caterpillars, etc. etc. too,

360 360
EPILEPSY
Most sweets served nowadays fall into one of the following categories: categories:
l. 1. Batter sweets (cr€pes, (crêpes, fritters, etc.). 2. custards. 2. Cooked
creams creams and custards. 3. omelettes, etc.). 3. Egg sweets (sweet omelettes, 4.
sweets (cooked or raw). 4. Fruit sweets 5. Ices and ice creams. 5. creams. sweets.
6. 6. Meringue Meringue sweets. 7. Pastry sweets sweets (tarts, pies, flans, etc.).
7. 8. 8. Puddings. sweets. 9. Rice and semolina sweets. 9. 10. Whipped 10. Whipped
cream sweets.
(

Piece of ofentrec6te entrecôte from rib rib ofbeef of beef (Boucherie Larousse)
Boucherie Bernard. Phot. Larousse)

ENTRECÔTE means 'between the ENTRECOTE Term which which literally means - Tenn
between two ribs of beef. ribs'. It is used of a steak taken between The term tenn
also also applies to a slice taken from the contrefilet or faux filet filet of
beef, but a true entrecôte between entrec6te is that cut between or faux various
recipes, For various ribs. It is is usually usually grilled or fried. fried. For
the ribs. see BEEF. BEEF. ENTRECUISSE - Tenn Term in cookery for the fleshy in
French cookery game. This thigh of poultry or is to This is to distinguish
distinguish it thigh or winged game. from the lower half of the leg or 'drumstick'.
the Dordogne, Dordogne, Bordeaux situated between between the Garonne and the
stretching boundary of of the the Gironde the south-eastern south-eastem boundary
stretching to to the département dipartethe Lot-et-Garonne Lot-et-Garonne
départedipartemefi and and overlapping overlapping the ment. for the The is
reserved reserved for The appellation appellation Entre-Deux-Mers Entre-Deux-Mers
is gradually becoming drier. white wines, drier. The The red wines, which which are
are gradually wines to the appellation Bordeaux or Bordeaux wines have a a right to
Supérieur. Sup6rieur.

EPERGNE. MÉNAGÈRE rafNlcins of glass, porcelain or - Table-centre of metal stem.

metal bowls attached to to an an ornamental ornamental metal stem. In metal bowls
attached France, epergnes are are still still used used as hors-d'euvre sets as
hors-d'œuvre sets for France, epergnes pickled melons, salted cucumbers, small
pickled melons, serving gherkins, salted and other delicaci~s. delicacies. They are
also also used used for for serving serving capers, and petitsfouis. stewed fruit
or iced petitsfouis. lamb consists of two consists of An épigramme ipigramme of
lamb npfCnnVfME ÉPIGRAMME - An of breast cuts, both cooked 'dry'. These two pieces
are a slice ofbreast in egg and breadcrumbs and dipped in egg and and a a cutlet
cutlet or chop, dipped and preparation of the preparation grilled or Instructions
for for the fried. Instructions or fried. grilled ipigrammes are given under LAMB.
épigrammes term épigramme ipigramme explains the origins of the tenn Philéas
Phil6as Gilbert explains as follows: 'It was towards the middle of the eighteenth
century. One guests at at table day a a young marquise overheard one of her guests
evening with he was dining the the previous evening remark that when he remark
received and, he was was charrningly charmingly received de Vaudreuil, Vaudreuil,
he the comte de the The epigrams. The had a feast of of excellent excellent
epigrams. furthermore, had had had a feast furthermore, pretty and was somewhat
somewhat elegant, was and elegant, marquise, though though pretty marquise,
ignorant of the meaning of words. Michelet. her chef. later summoned Michelet, 'She
later "tomorrow, 1 I shall shall require him, "tomorrow, "'Michelet," she she said
to to him, '''Michelet,'' ipigrammesl" a a dish of épigrammes!" chef withdrew,
pondering the problem. He looked up 'The chefwithdrew, kind. the kind. no reference
to anything of the found no but found old recipes, but old no But no heard of of
the the dish. dish. But had ever ever heard None of his his colleagues colleagues
had None could discover at a a loss. loss. Since Since he could is ever at French
master chef is one. Next day, day, set about about to invent one. nothing about the
dish dish he set nothing a most delicate delicate dish. dish. and he created
created a inspiration came and put guests feU 'At dinner, over the the dish dish
put fell into ecstasies ecstasies over dinner, the the guests 'At the house, house,
and, after after complimenting complimenting the lady of the thun and, before them
was called. The chef called. With With perfect its name. The chef was know its
desired to to know desired la Michelet". Michelet". "Epigrammes oflamb of lamb à d
la composure he replied, "Épigrammes composure 'Everyone laughed. The marquise
marquise was was triumphant, laughed. The 'Everyone the amusement amusement of of
her not understand understand the though she she could could not though of France
France guests. From that moment, the culinary culinary repertoire of guests. to
this day. day. still used used to enriched by by a a name still was enriched for
slices slices of originally used used for of 'But whereas this this name name was
was originally 'But fried in in butter and in breadcrumbs, fried butter and breast
of lamb dipped dipped in breast of lamb lamb, by end of lamb, by the the end round
a a blanquette blanquette of arranged arranged in in a a circle circle round had
been transformed it had been completely completely transfonned of the eighteenth
eighteenth century century it of in slices of of breast, breast, dipped dipped in
into what what it it is is today, today, cutlets cutlets and and slices into
grilled.' fried in in butter or grilled.' butter or egg and and fried egg and
breadcrumbs and particular fpllrpsn -- Ancient Ancient doctors, doctors, in in
particular EPILEPSY. ÉPILEPSIE EPlLEPSY. of diet diet in in the the
treatHippocrates, recognised the the importance importance of treatHippocrates,
kinds of of conflicting conflicting ment of disease, and and since since then then
al! all kinds of this this disease, ment diets have have been Some definite
definite conclusions conclusions can can been concocted. concocted. Sorne diets
facts, however. however. drawn from from certain certain facts, be drawn be
voracious eaters; cutting Epileptics are are hearty, hearty. sometimes eaters;
cutting sometimes voracious Epileptics number of diminishes the the number of
epileptic epileptic on food food therefore down on therefore diminishes down fits.
fits. particularly a vegetarian diet, a milk milk diet diet lessens lessens the the
A vegetarian diet, or or particularly A frequency of of fits fits in in the the
majority majority of of cases. cases. frequency not true for ail true for all
epileptics. These claims, however, are are not epileptics. claims, however, These
361 361

given to the area ENTRE-DEUX-MERS Name given to the area of ENTRE-DEUX-MERS - Name

in a full French French menu, ENTRÉE course which, which. in a full ENTREE The
course - The in its relevd or intermediate course course which, which, in follows
follows the the relevé or intennediate (or whatever dish turn, dish may may be be
served served in turn, follows the the fish fish (or place of it). third course, is
the the third place In other words, words, the the entrée entrie is it). In not the
first, would seem to to be. first, as as it would It is usually a dish served with
a white or brown sauce, but formal dinner, dinner, several several can At a a large
large formai dish. At can also also be be a a cold cold dish. in character,
character, are entrées, entries, ail different from from one one another another in
all different usually served. served. dishes, can also Mixed entrées, that is is to
to say say composite dishes, can also entries, that be served. Mixed entrées.
rNrnfes MIXTES MxrEs -- Under this heading there entr6es. ENTRÉES is the chief
chief of of these these being being variety of is an an infinite infinite variety
of dishes, dishes, the pdtis made garnishes; hot various gamishes; hot pâtés made
casseroles rice with with various casseroles of of rice (variety meats), poultry,
game, game, meat, fish and with meat, offal offal (variety meats), fish and with
poultry, shellfish;· vol-au-vent. These pies; savoury shellfish; pies; These are
tartlets and and vol-au-vent. savoury tartlets served after the the principal
entrées. entries.
ENTRELARDER term for for slices slices of meat ENTRELARDER - French culinary tenn
cooked with alternate layers of of pork fat. alternate layers ENTREMETS 'between
dishes'. In old old French French dishes'. In Literally 'between - Literally the
tenn roast, and and followed the roast, term covered all the dishes dishes which
followed covered ail included not sweets but not only sweets but vegetables. ln and
seventeenth seventeenth fifteenth, sixteenth sixteenth and In the the fourteenth,
fourteenth, fifteenth, centuries, entertainnot only food but but also also
entertainmeant not only food centuries, entremets entremets meant provided by ment
by buffoons, of the the meal, meal, provided ment in in the the middle middle of
perminstrels, and other other peracrobats, dancers, dancers, and minstrels,
troubadours, troubadours, acrobats, fonners. formers. (desserts), which, Nowadays,
the in which, in means sweets sweets (desserts), word means the word given under
France, Recipes are are given under France, are after the cheese. cheese. Recipes
are served served after their names in order. their names in alphabetical
alphabetical order.
EPINE D'HIVER

D'HMR Name of a Epnm D'HIVER ÉPINE pear, tender tender and a winter winter pear, -
Name fragrant to eat.
EpfNEn ÉPINÉE - French regional name for chine of pork.

EPIPHANY. ÉPIPHANIE 6ppn,c,NIE Epiphany or or Twelfth Twelfth Night Night EPIPHANY.

- Epiphany (known in France as the Feast of the Kings) is celebrated (known
celebrated on it is an occasion occasion for great feasting. feasting. 6 January.
In France il Twelfth-Night cake, cake, the the symbolic symbolic cake cake
containing the Twelfth-Night is eaten on Twelfth Night. It is traditional bean (or
favour) is made either either of risen risen dough dough in in the shape of a a
ring, ring, or flaky made pastry in the shape of a galette, according to the
region. _ See EPOTSSNS SEC CHEESE. ÉPOISSES CHEESE.
EpONCnn Term in in French cookery for the process ÉPONGER French cookery for the
process of - Tenn dryrng parboiled or boiled vegetables by putting them on a drying
draining, to get rid of ail all surplus moisture. cloth after draining, Sorne Some
deep-fried foods are drained in a clotho cloth. This process iponger. is also known
as éponger.
ERDBEERKUCHEN (German pastry) ERDBEERKUCHEN - A German strawberry tart. See TART,
Fruit d l'allemande. Fruit tart à

raw in is chiefly chiefly eaten eaten raw in salad, salad, but can also also be
Escarole is but can cooked in a great many ways. Ali methods of All the methods
preparation cooked of preparation (q.v.) are given for (q.v.) and chicory (q.v.)
for endive (q.v.) are applicable to given this plant.

ERIdITAGE is sometimes sometimes written with ERMIT AGE (Wine) - This name is
(Hermitage). The wine, which is an 'H' (Hennitage). is made in the Drôme an Dr6me
dipartement, enjoys a a great département, are both red Ereat reputation. There are
and white Ermitage Ennitage wines, made from grapes grown on the and slopes of
I'Ermitage in the the commune of Tain Tain on l'Ennitage in the left slopes on the
bank of ofthe Rhdne. the Rhône. There are different types of soil in this area, and
the vinesections or mas, divided into three sections mas) each very very different
different yard is divided Bossard in geological structure from from the others. The
mas de Bossard the mas de de Mial is alluvial soil, soil, and is a Méal is slopeo
the and the a granite slope, mas Grffieux is clay. mos de Greffieux Ermitage wine
wine is is perfect only when when made from grapes Ennitage perfect only made from
from aU all three sections of ofthe the vineyard. golden yellow. It has a fairly
White Ermitage Ennitage wine is a fine golden White of a faded strong bouquet. The
red wine, when it is young, is of purple colour. It should be left to mature for a
while, otherslightly bitter. wise it tastes slightly
given in name given The name in France to to a a very very old old wild ERMITE -
The boai boa'r which is also known as solitaire. The meat of old wild young boar
leathery. Only In France, a is leathery. Only young is eaten. eaten. In boar is
boar is (See young boar is rousse. (See is known as as a a marcassin marca,ssm or
or bête bOte rousse. young wrLD BOAR.) WILD ER.VY -. See CHEESE. ERVY CHEESE.
generic name The generic fnvrnnrN -- The ERYTHRIN. ÉRYTHRIN name for for several
thick and and rounded rounded in varieties of of fish, fish, rather in body
varieties rather thick body with large heads. to be be found found in the lakes
lakes and Three or four four varieties are are to fish is to eat. eat. It It is
rivers of hot hot countries. countries. This This fish rivers is excellent to
cooked in the same way as as sea perch. ESCABTCHE hors-d'auvre. ESCABÈCHE HORS-
DGUVRE, Cold hors-d'œuvre. See HORS-DŒUVRE, - See of Spanish Spanish origin. In
Belgium it is escavèche, Word of escaviche, in North Africa, scabèche. scabCche.

ofa Auguste Escoffier in front of a sugar sugar model of o[ Grosvenor House, London
Grosvenor
or COLLOP fish of any ESCALOPE or - Slices of meat or fish slightly and fried in
butter or sorne kind, flattened slightly some other fat. In fonner former times the
tenn was used of ln of a dish of sliced meat, instance, sliced mutton would be be
called une escalope for instance, escalope de mouton. mouton. generally cut Veal
escalopes escalopes are are generally cut from from the the fil1et fillet (U.S.
Veal (U.S. rib) end of neck (U.S. rib) or the topside or round) or the best end
silverside (U.S. rump). rump). silverside
sc.morB salad plant with wide, ESCAROLE. SCAROLE - Variety of salad grean leaves
which are sometimes sometimes blanched by curled, dark green being surrounded with
with earth earth or or being cultivated in cellars cultivated in cellars in the
dark.

ESCOFFIER, ESCOFFIE& AUGUSTE - Auguste Escoffier was born at little town town in in
the the AlpesVilleneuve-Loubet, Villeneuve-Loubet, a a channing charming little He
began the age age of Maritimes, in in 1847. 1847. He career at at the began his his
career Maritimes, twelve, and became a very great cook. Echenard, two with Ritz
RiCI and and Echenard, ln In 1890, 1890, in in association association with masters
of the hotel business, he opened the Savoy Hotel in remaind in this illustrious
establishment until London, and remained direction of 1898 when, for personal
reasons, he gave up the direction those of the the Carlton the the Savoy kitchens
to take charge charge of those Hotel, then one of the most famous in Europe.
prestige of As a reward for all he had done to enhance the prestige French cooking
throughout the world, Escoffier was was made in 1920, and Officer of a Chevalier of
the Legion of Honour in Legion in in 1928. the Legion regarded Escoffier's culinary
career was brilliant. He was regarded kitchens, upon emperor world's title peror of
the world 's ki tchens, a ti tle conferred u pon as the em II, who spent some time
on him by the spent sorne the Emperor Emperor William II, him Hamburg-America Line,
which the steamer Imperator of of the Hamburg-America steamer Imperator charge of
the imperial kitchens. Escoffier had joined to take charge In the course of
Emperor, ln of a conversation conversation with Escoffier, the Emperor, 'I am am
the Emperor of Gennany, Germany, congratulating him, said: said: '1 are the Emperor
Emperor of chefs.' chefs.' but you are in 1921. 1921. He was then seventy-four
years Escoffier retired retired in In ail art for sixty-two years. In all of age
had practised his art age and and had is no no other example of such a the history
of cookery, there is 1935, nearly career. He died in February February 1935, long
professional career. eighty-nine eighty-nine years old. The culinary writings of
Escoffier are works of authority. collaboraThe best-known best-known are le Guide
culinaire, written in collabora/e Livre Gilbert and and Emile Fetu; le Émile Fetu;
Livre des tion tion with with Philéas Phil6as Gilbert le Riz; Ie Carnet m cire;
cire; Ma cuisine; le Ies Fleurs Ma cuisine; Riz; le menus; Fleurs en menus; les
d'Épicure. d'Epicure. in 1893, 1893, honoured the It the Australian It was who, in
was Escoffier who, singer, Melba, by creating the peach dish that bears singer,
Nellie Melba, her name. invented the the dodine au m Chambertin and and her He also
name. He also invented named after a a ship that the chaud-froid Jeannette, the
latter named the Polar Polar ice. ice. Many delicate culinary trapped in was in the
Many delicate was trapped creations are associated with his name.

ESPAGNOLE basic brown sauces. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE One of the the basic - One which
indicates It is is also also called sauce-mère sauce-mire (mother-sauce) which
derivative that it can be used as a basis for a large number of derivative brown
sauces. calledpetite-espagnole. petite-espagnole. This is Carême's Cardme's recipe
for what he called
362
ESSENCE ESSENCE
'Take a deep saucepan. saucepan. Put in 2 slices of Bayonne ham. ham. Place Place
on on top a noix of veal veal and 2 partridges. Add enough stock to ta cover caver
the veal only. Boil down the liquid rapidly. Move Move the the pan to a cooler
cooler part of the stove to extract exlract all the juice juice from the the
contents. contents. When the the stock is reduced to ta a coating coating on the
bottom of veal with the pan, remove remove it il from the stove. Prick Prick the
nox noix of ofveal the the point of of a knife knife so sa that that its its juice
juice mingles mingles with the the essence. Put Put the saucepan saucepan back on
the stove stove on a low heat and leave for about I 1 hour. Watch Watch the essence
as it gradually gradually turns to to a clear red colour. 'To simplify simplify
this operation, operation, scrape offa little of the essence with the point of a a
knife. Roll it it between the fingers. fingers. If If it it rolls into a ball,
bail, the essence is perfectly perfectly reduced. reduced. If If it is not, nOl, it
will stick the fingers fingers together. 'Remove the saucepan saucepan from the
stove and put it aside for 15 minutes for the essence to cool. It will then
dissolve more readily. Fill Fil! the saucepan with clear c1ear soup or stock and
and heat heal very slowly. As soon as it il comes cornes to the boil,skim boil,
.skim it, il, and pour pour 2ladles into inlo a a roux.' For the 1he preparation of
this ronx: roux: 'Melt 100 g. (4 oz., ! butter and add to it sieved flour i cup)
"up) a low heat, to a rather liquid roux. Put it Lo make a it on a heat, stirring
of the from from time time to to time time so sn that that little liltle by by
little little the the whole whole of mixture turns a golden colom. colour. When
adding the liquid, do rorx must not be on the stove while you not forget rorgel
that Ihat the roux stock; but it are mixing are mixi ng in in the first spoonfuls
of stock; it should be put on later, so that it may be added boiling boiliDg hot to
the the rest of the stock. roux, stir the roux, 'When 'When the 2 ladles ladIes of
stock are poured into the so as to ta make the mixture mixture perfectly smooth.
Now pour it into Add parsley and and spring the the veal noix. noix. Add the
saucepan with with the a little seasoned wilh with j bay leaf, onions, seasoned
Ieaf, a liule thyme, 2 chives, and mushroom mushroom trimmings. Leave to simmer,
stirring frequently. full hour skim off the fat. 30 minutes later skim off After a
full the fat fat again. 'Strain through a clolh cloth into a bowl, stirring from
time to Ihrough a on the that no no scum scum forms on time with a wooden spoon
spoon so so that time with a is exposed to to the the sauce sauce is surface, as as
easily easily happens when the surface, (Extract from entries royal; Traiti des
entrées from le le Pdtissier air.' (Extracl air.' Pâtissier royal:
chaudes.)

For For drinks, drinks., the the ceremonial ceremonial was was equally equally
complicated. complicated. When the the king called for for a drink, drink, the the
cup cup bearer hearer made made a sign to the the wine butler and his his
assistant. The first first of of these thes.e brought the the wine in in a flagon,
and the king's king's glass, covered; the the second brought brought a silver
silver jug jug full full of of water. The cup bearer bearer took took the glass and
uncovered uncovered it; il; the wine wine butler butler poured poured in in the the
wine, wine, then then the water. water. The cup bearer poured poured some sorne of
of this this watered wine into into two little little silver-gilt cups. cups. He He
drank drank from one; the wine butler buller drank from the other. Only OnJy then
then did d id the the cup bearer bearer proffer proffer the the cup, now covered
covered once more, more, across the table to to the king. He did not not uncover it
it until until the very moment moment that the king was about to to drink. drink.
The same same ceremonial took lOok place place for the queen. By special favour,
Louis Louis XIV bestowed bestowed the same prerogative prerogative upon the
dauphine dauphine (the (the wife of the heir to the throne). throne).
and volatile, ESSENCE ESSENCE - A A liquid, liquid, usually usually oily oily and
volatile, extracted by the distillation distillation of vegetable substances in in
water: water: essence of cinnamon, of anise, cinna mon, lemon, oranges, oranges,
roses, roses, etc. Essences Essences are are used used in in aromatherapy
aromatherapy to to combat combat various various complaints. Fifteen Fifteen of
these appear appear in the Codex. Anchovy essence. essence. EssENcE ESSENCE
D'ANcHoIs D'ANCHOIS - A A commercial commercial product product which is used in
the preparation preparation of of Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, and to Compound
butters'S BUTTER, Compound (see butlers) and to flavour flavour certain
sauces, sauces, stuffings, salads, etc. Bitter ahnond essence. essence. EssENcE
ESSENCE D'AMANDES D'AMANDES e,utnrs AM12RES - A A

product commercially. product which is made and sold co:mnnel'cl<llIy as for cERFHm
Chervil Cbenil ess€nce. essence. EssENcE ESSENCE DE DE CERFEUIL for - Proceod as of
tarragon. Tarragon essence, using using chervil in in place of pint, EssENcE oE
Cofree ~nce.. essence. ESSENCE DE clrf Pour 5 dl. dl. (scant (scant pin!, - Pour (7
oz., ground g. (7 o2.,2$ on 200 2| cups) cups) boiling boiling water water on 200
g. 2t cups) cups) ground liquid througb through the coffee placed in a filter.
tilter. Pour the resulting liquid filter again. Cool filter again. Cool and and
bottle boule it. il. Use Use to to flavour ftavour creams,
mochas, etc. (scant pint, For 5 5 dl. dl. (seant DE polssoN ESsENcE DE Fish
essence.. essence. ESSENCE Fisb POISSON - For put in kg. (2± and trimI kg. in a a
saucepan: saucepan: J 2{ cups), cups), put 2t lb.) bones and QL4lb.) fish, J I
small sliced mings ofsole, of sole, whiting, brill briU or other white fish, (a
oz.) mushroom trimmings, a sprig of parsley, lm g. (4 onion, 100 juice. Moisten
pints, Moisten with I litre (l| pints, and a few and few drops lemon juice. pint,
seant scant quart) strained fish and 2 dl. dl. (t fish stock stock and generous
quart) $ pÎnt, cup) white wine. minutes. for 30 30 to to 35 35 minutes. Boil
steadily for Bring to the boil. boit Skim. Boil half its volume. to half Boil down
to muslin. Boil Strain through muslin. volume. poaching used for for po,lchmg is
used fairly rich, rich, is which is is fairly This essence, essence, which This
preparation of to be of sauces sauces to in the fish. It It can used in also be be
used can also fish. the preparation fish. served with fish. boiled Game stock stock
boiled DE GIBIER GIBIER - Game EssENcE DE essence. ESSENΠGame essence. Game jelly.
of thick thick meat jelly. to the the consistency consistency of down to wine or or
D'AIL boiling white wine EssENcE D'AD.. Garlic essence. ESSENCE - Pour boiling
garlic, strain and down. and boil boil down. vinegar onto cru crushed shed cloves
of garlic, The DE CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPIcNoNS - The EssENcE DE Mushrom essence.
essence. ESSENCE been mushrooms have been liquid, greatly concentrated, in which
mushrooms used to to flavour flavour sauces. cooked. It is used p'fcgAlorn
D'oIcNoN, D'ÉCHALOTE ESsENCE D'OIGNON, shallot essence. e{xl€nce" ESSENCE Onion and
and sballot On.ioo or in white white wine wine or onions or or shallots shallots in
Infuse finely finely sliced sliced (>Dions - Infuse vinegar. pERsIL - Proceed as
for for EssENcts DE DE PERSD.. Proceed as Parsley essence.. essence. ESSENCE
Tarragon essence. Tarragon An infusion infusion of of D'EsrRlcoN - An essence.
ESSENCE EssENcE D'ESTRAGON Tarragon essence. vinegar, strained strained and
reduced. white wine or vÎnegar, fresh tarragon in whÎte g. Rub 500 500 g. ESSENcE
DE DE TOMA ToMATES Tomato essence. esserrce. ESSENCE Tomato TES - Rub (generous 1
tomatoes through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. I lb.) very ripe raw raw tomatoes pulp
until il to half half ilS its volume. volume. Pass Pass it is reduced reduced to
Boil the the pulp pulp pressing hard Boil this this pulp hard with with a a spoon.
spoon. Boil through a a sieve, sieve, pressing through Rub througb through a syrupy
syrupy consistency. consistency. Rub until it thickens thickens ta to a until
muslin. jelly kind of makes a a kind of jelly in this this way, way, tomato tomato
pulp makes Cooked in Cooked days. It is used as for several as an an additional
additional can be kept for several days. which can

instead of of a a noix, veal is is used usod instead Nowadays, a a shoulder of veal

(See SA SAUCE, usod În in the the stock. stock. (See and partridge Îs is not and
not used VeE, DEMI-ESPAGNOLE.) sauce. See See al50 also DEMI-ESPAGNOLE.) Espagnole
sauce.
proof a1cohol. alcohol. ESPRIT-DE-VIN ESPRIT·DE-VlN - 84" praof
",",-",-,,-,.....,..a;.,

high dignitary A servant servant or or high ESQUIRE TRENCHANT -A great in great In

former former tÎmes, times, in at ceremonial banquets. banquets. In at (or écuyer
trenchant) was was icuyer trenchant) households, the trenchant (or the esquire
esquire trenchani hOlllsehQ.lds, households, the in rank. rank. ln In lesser
households, second to to the the major-domo major-domo in second two offices were
combined. two
officiating uU~'''><''JJ.'5

ESSAI or ESSAY The essai essai at at the French royal courts was ESSAl - The the
ceremony the king's food food and drink. The The cups ceremony of of lasting
tasting the which were were used for tasting tasting wines etc. were were alsa also
ca called used for wines etc. which lied essais. poison in gave rise The fear fear
of in the the Middle Middle Ages Ages gave rise to to a of poison a The the
sovereign's sovereign's meals. complicated ceremonial ceremonial attending
attending the In France, this minutely regulated regulated by by court etiquette,
court etiquette, this was was minutely In continued with slighl slight
modifications modifications up up to to the the Revoluwhich continued tion, ta to
be be revived revived under under the the Empire. tion, spices, and napkin knife,
fork, The knife, fork, spoon, salt salt cellar, cellar, spices, and napkin The
(q.v.) Of locked in in tbe the cadenas (q.v.) or nef(q.v.). nef (q.v.). were locked
The maÎlre maitre d'hôlel the cutlery and the the dishes dishes d'h6tel rubbed
cutlery and rubbed ail all the The with baUs balls of breadcrumbs which he made
sure sure were eaten by which he were eaten by with had subjected the squires
squires of subjected of the the pantry, who, who, previously, had the the servants
servants who who had handed them them the the dishes to to the the same same the
ordeal. ordeal.
363 363

it
ESTAMINET ESTAMINET
ingredient for for sauces, sauces, stuffings, stuffings, and and other other
mixtures. mixtures. ingredient Trufle essence. essence. ESSENCE EssENcE DE peelings
DE TRUFFES TRUFFEs -- Truflle Truffie peelings Truffle infused in in Madeira
Madeira or or any any other other heavy heavy wine. wine. infused
caused, especially especially in in wine, wine, by by too too long long exposure
exposure to to the caused, the air. air. The taste taste of of évent ivent is is
the the washy flavour in washy flavour in wine wine which which has has lost lost
The its aroma aroma through through oxidation. oxidation. its

ESTAMINET given in Name given in former former times times in in France France to
to EST AMINEf -- Name patrons were permitted to cafes where where patrons were
permitted to smoke. smoke. cafés Nowadays, the the word word is is used used of of
a a basement basement lavern. tavern. Nowadays,
ESTOUFFADE -- Name Name applied applied bolh to aa dish both 10 dish whose whose
ESTOUFFADE ingredients are are slowly slowly stewed, stewed, and and to to a a
clear clear brown brown stock stock ingredients used to to dilute dilute sauces
sauces or to moisten or to moisten braised braised meat meat and and used ragofrts.
ragoûts. ESTOUFT'AT -- Languedoc Languedoc dialect dialect fonn form of of the the
word word ESTOUFFAT (dish stewed ituvie (dish stewed very very slowly). slowly). In
In that that region region it it is is mainlv mainly étuvée used to to design
designate pork. a stew stew of of haricot haricot beans beans and and pork. used a
te a EfOUfffn -- Method Method of of cooking food in cooking food in a a tightly
tightly c10sed closed ÉTOUFFÉE vessel with very little little Iiquid with very
liquid or or ev even without liquid, liquid, often often vessel en without called à
d l'élUvée. l'ituvie. called given in ffOUnOnAU -- Name parts of Name given in
sorne some parIS of France France ta to a a ÉTOURnEAU young capon. capon. young
(See ÉTOUFFÉE.) EfWfn -- Method Method of of cooking cooking food. food. (See
irourreE.) ÉTUVÉE

EVERLASTING PEA. PEA. JAROSSE, JARossE, JAROUSSE JARous$ -- Popular Popular name
name EVERLASTING for the the cultivated cultivated vetch. vetch. ln In France,
France, it it is is also also sometimes sometimes for called Auvergne Auvergne
len/il. lentil. called
EWE. BREBIS BREBIs -- The young, is The flesh flesh of of a a ewe, ewe, when EWE.
when young, is used used as as (q.v.). ordinary mutton mutton (q.v.). ordinary In
sorne some regions regions of of south·western south-western France, France, ewe's
ewe's meat ln meat is is pickled in pork. in the the same same way way as as pork.
pickled EWER. AIGUIÈRE ucurinr -- Vesse! Vessel for for containing containing water
EWER. water for for service service at table. table. The The word word aiguière
aiguidre cornes comes from from Old Old French French aigue at aigue (water).
(water). goes back The ewer ewer goes back to to antiquity. antiquity. Ils Its main
main features features have have The not changed general, il changed much. much. In
In general, it is is a vessel of a vessel of elongated elongated form, form, not
with base, base, handle handle and precious stones, and spout. spout. Gold, Gold,
precious stones, and the and the wilh finest enamels enamels were were used used
for for the the ewers ewers on on the the tables tables of finest of the the past
centuries. French nobility in in past centuries. One One of of the the most most
beautiful beautiful French examples is is in in chased chased silver silver and
part of and was was pari of the the treasure examples in 1830 at at Berthonville,
Berthonville, near Bernay, Bernay, in in Ihe the Eure. Eure. discovered in It is
kept kept in in the the museum of of medals in in the French Bibliothèque
Bibliothdque l! Nationale. EXCELSIOR See CHEESE. CHEESE. EXCELSIOR - See EXOCOBTUS.
EXOCET rxocrr -- This This fish, fish, commonly commonly known known as EXOCOETUS.
prepared in is edibJe. edible. It It is is prepared in the the same flying fish, is
same way way as flyinS fish, mackerel (q.v.).

EfWnn -- To To cook cook food food in pan, without in a a covered covered pao,
without liquid. liquid. ÉTUVER This method method is is suitable suitable for for
aIl poultry, all kinds kinds of of meat, meat, poultry, This vegetables, and and
fruit. fruit. A A little little butter, butter, fat f,at or or oil oil should
should be vegetables, added. added.
EUPHORISM. EUPHORISME eupHoRrsME - Euphorism Euphorism is is a a new art of of
EliPHORISM. new art living that aims aims to to encourage encourage the the
expansion expansion of of Ihe the human living that personality physical and and
moral moral equilibrium. equilibrium. In In its persona lity through through
physical attempt to to cultivate joie de cultivate an an optirnistic optimistic
outlook outlook of of joie fu vivre vivre attempt good humour, and good euphorism
depends depends 10 to a a large and humour, euphorism large extent on gastronomy.
gastronomy. Doctor Pierre Vachet, a disciple disciple of of this Doctor Pierre
Vachet, a this philosophy, philosophy, believes that gastronomy has an important
imporlant r6le rôle to play play in belleves that gastronomy has an the happiness.
Like of happiness. Like art, art, it it has has its ilS rules; rules; whether the
pursuit pursuit of it simple country it proposes proposes a a simple country meal
meal or or a a sumptuous sumptuous banquet, the satisfied. the taste tasle buds
buds and and the Ihe mind mind must must be be equally equally satisfied. The The
gourmet gourmet generally generally knows knows very very well weil how how to to
blend the delights delights of of the the palate palate with wilh visual visu al
and and mental mental stimulation. stimulation. The The pleasure pleasure it it
gives gives him him to to taste tasle wines wines and and savour savour the chefs-
d'euvre French cuisine chefs·d'œuvre of of French cuisine can can be be likened
likened to to the joy joy other other people people derive denve from from
listening hstemng to ta a a beautiful beautiful symphony symphony gazing at or or
gazing at a a fine fine painting. painting. The author of of Maladies Maladies de
de Ia la vie vie moderne moderne declares: declares: 'Taste 'Taste The author and
and flavours flavours are are precious precious elements eJemenlS of of euphorism
euphorism for, for, when properly applied, properly applied, our our sense sense of
of taste tas te adds adds greatly greatly to 10 our our physical physicai and and
psychic psychic pleasure. pleasure. 'The 'The sense sense of of taste tasle should
should therefore therefore be be educated and cultivated cultivated to to a a great
great extent extent in in order order to to develop develop the the taste las te
buds, buds, so 50 that that we we learn lcarn to to appreciate appreciate each each
separate separate flavour flavour of of whatever whatever we we consume. consume.
By Dy analysing analysing the the qualities qualities and and defects defects of of
food, food, by by knowing knowing how how truly truly to 10 savour savour a a wine,
wine, we we shall shall acquire acquire through through practice practice a a much
much wider wider range range of of sensory sensory resources. resources. 'Only
'Only by by this trus kind kind of of education education and and discipline
discipline can can gastronomy gastronomy take take its ils rightful rightful place
place in in the the epicurism epicurism of of modern modern times, limes,
euphorism.' euphorism.' There There is is a a Euphorists' Euphorists' Club. Club.
EVnf.m is ÉVENT - French French name name for for the the deterioration
deterioration which which is

EXTRACT. EXTRAIT ExrRArr -- Product Product obtained obtained by by evaporating

evaporating EXTRACr. juice. The cooking stock of meat, boiled animal or vegetable
vegetable juice. alllmai pan, is a coaling coating in the the pan, is an an
extract. down to a The extracts most commonly commonly used used are those of beef,
veal, poultry and and game. poultry Extracts are called essences or .fumets. The
term fish are fumels. The lerm Extracls of fish extended to can be cover concentra
concentrated can be extended to coyer ted vegetable vegetable essences essences
which wltich are made from root vegetables vegelables and from mushrooms, tomatoes,
toma tocs, and truffies. Iruffies. Among the vegetable vegetable extracts used in
the kitchen is soya soya sauce if added added to 10 coulis (q.v.), ragofrts ragoûts
(q:v.), and sauce which, if other other meat meal or or vegetarian vegetarian
dishes, dishes, enhances enhances their their flavour without destroying destroying
their own particular taste. Chicken exhact. exlracl. cLAcE GLACE DE DE voLATLLE
VOLAILLE - Boil Boil down clear chicken stock in the same way as indicated
indicaled in the recipe recipe for Meat Meal extracl extract (see (sec below). Fish
Fish extract. exlracl cLAcE GLACE DE DE porssoN POISSON - See See ESSENCE, ESSENCE,
Frs& Fish essence. essence. Game extract. exlracl. cLAcE GLACE DE DE GTBTER GlBIER
- Boil Boil down dowll clear game game stock in in the the same way as as for Meat
Meal extract exlracl (see (see below). below). Meat Meat extract. exlract. cLAcE
GLACE DE DE VTANDE VIANDE - Boil down to to half half its its volume 10 litres (9
(9 quarts, quarts, ll Il quarts) quarts) brown brown stock. stock. Remove Remove
volume l0litres all as possible. possible. Strain Strain through through ail fat,
fal, leaving leaving the the stock stock as as clear clear as muslin, and boil boil
down down further. further. Strain, Slrain, and and repeat repeat the the musli n,
and procedure of a a spoon. spoon. Each Each procedure until untiJ the the stock
stock coats coats the the back back of time is strained, strained, transfer
transfer the the stock stock to to a a smaller smaller saucepan, saucepan, time it
it is and and reduce reduce the the heat heat as as the the stock stock thickens.
thickcns. Pour Pour the the extract extract into into little little jars jars and
and keep keep in in a a cool cool place. place. Meat Meat extrrcts exlracts
(commercially (commerciaUy prepared). prepared). ExrRArrs EXTRAITS DE DE VHNDE
VIANDE DU DU coMMERcr COMMERCE - These These extracts, exlracts, which which are
are manumanufactured in household household factured commercially, commercially,
are are mainly mainly used used in kitchens. kitchens.

3g 364
pancreas, and sometimes pancreas, calves' sweetbreads. sometimes to calves'

FAGOUE Name given given in to the tripe-trade to FAGOLIE in the the French French
tripe-trade - Name FAÏENCE is whitish whitish in which is FA'IENCE type of pottery
which - Opaque type colour or tinted. The earthenware glaze tin glaze earthenware
is is covered covered with with tin (lead glaze made opaque ashes) so that opaque
by the addition of tin ashes) the masked. This This is completely masked. the
colour of the the earthenware is pottery takes its Faenza. from the the Italian
town town of of Faenza. its name from Very faience pottery, the origins of faïence
Very little is is known known about the but vitreous lead lead times a a brilliant,
brilliant, vitreous but from from the earliest times very earliest the very glaze,
coloured by means of metallic oxides, known to to oxides, was was known potters. It
is be seen in the of Ancient Egypt, Egypt, is to be seen in the hypogeum of on
glazd bricks and also also on on the the glazed on its its vases, vases, funeral
funeral images, and which and Babylon. walls of Nineveh and which decorated
decoratod the the walls The preserved for have preserved for Asia Minor Minor have
The ancient mosques of Asia us the Persians, Persians, who who of the craftsmanship
of us the the magnificent magnificent craftsmanship passed passed on the Arabs. to
the on their their skill skill to From the thirteenth centres there were were
important centres thirteenth century there for Malaga and and faience in in Spain,
Spain, at at Malaga for the the manufacture of faïence manufacture of Majorca,
majolica. Up Up to to its name to to the the Italian Italian majolica. Majorca,
which gave its the in famous factories were were in the most most famous the
seventeenth seventeenth century the Valencia. of tin tin discovery of mainly
through through the the discovery Valencia. But But it it was was mainly glaze
glazn by the middle middle of of the the towards the Robbia towards by Luca Luca
della della Robbia fifteenth to industry was was able able to that the the ceramic
ceramic industry fifteenth century, century, that develop, various other other
Italian Italian and then then in in various first at at Faenza Faenza and develop,
first towns, Druta, Durante, Durante, Venice, Venice, Gubbio, Druta, notably
Urbino, Urbino, Gubbio, towns, notably Milan Milan and and Turin. Turin. ln pottery
called faience pottery called sixteenth century, century, faïence In France,
France, in in the the sixteenth Henry being the the was made, made, the the most
most important being Henry II II faïence faience was very individual pieces pieces
made During the the Bernard Palissy. Palissy. During made by by Bernard same
potters tried period Italian faience to introduce introduce the the faïence ltalian
potters tried to same period industry from Savona, Savona, The Conradi, coming from
Conradi, coming industry into into France. France. The settled to make make faïence
faience attempts to abortive attempts settled at at Nevers. Nevers. Early Early
abortive in it was was sixteenth century, century, but but it Rouen were made in in
the the sixteenth in Rouen were made only produced the the century that that this
this town town produced only in in the the seventeenth seventeenth century
beautiful glories of the of the the glories of the which remain remain one one of
beautiful specimens specimens which French very fashionable fashionable in in the
the These were were very French faïence faience industry. industry. These
eighteenth in copied everywhere, everywhere, both both in and were were copied
eighteenth century century and France the Moustiers, from from the the end end of
of the countries. Moustiers, France and and other other countries. seventeenth
pieces in style faience pieces in the the style made famous famous faïence century,
made seventeenth century, ofTempesta, from Bernard Bernard Toro. Toro. from Bérain
B6rain and and from of Tempest4 or or copied copied from At Hannong the Hannong
century, the in the the eighteenth eighteenth century, At Strasbourg, Strasbourg,
in family quickly adopted the adopted by by the family created a style style which
which was was quickly created a facto ries of Niederwiller. In In Paris, Paris,
SaintSaintfactories and Niederwiller. of Lunéville Lun6ville and Cloud, a were also
also a Marseille, there there were Meudon, Lille, Lille, and and Marseille, Cloud,
Meudon, large important factories. factories. large number number of less important
of less Outside produced at at finest work work was was produced France, sorne some
of of the the finest Outside France, Delft the most most active active for a long
time, time, the Holland, which was, for a long Delft in in HoHand, which was,
365 365

centre Europe. of the the faïence faience industry industry in in Europe. centre of
pottery, made pottery, called Fine made its its appearance appearance Fine pottery,
called clay clay pottery, towards and this this century, and the middle middle of
of the the eighteenth eighteenth century, towards the industry in the towns fully
developed developed in in England, England, in the towns industry was was most most
fully pottery was of of pottery In France, France, this this type type of was of
Leeds Leeds and and Burslem. Burslem. In made and Lun6ville and at Pont-aux-Choux,
Paris, Lunéville mdde especially especially at Pont-aux-Choux, Paris, Orléans.
Orl6ans. With vent of porcelain, faïence less soughtsoughtfaience became became
less With the the ad advent of porcelain, after faience manuhighly-prized. But But
modem modern faïence manuafter and and less less highly-prized. pottery. facturers
given a new lease lease of life to to this this type type of of pottery. facturers
have have given a new of life FAISANDAGE FAISANDAGE for red red meat French term
term for in the the condition condition meat in - French which, 'high'. It whictU
in in England, England, is is known known as as 'high'. It is is derived derived
from from faisan (pheasant). faisan (pheasant). When pheasant is When it it is is
fresh, is tough tough and and without without much much fresh, pheasant ftavour.
grows tender flavour. It It grows develops after tender and and its its aroma aroma
develops after it it has has been been hung, hung, the length of of time depending
upon upon the the temperatemperathe length time depending ture. pheasant is hung,
as as advocated advocated ture. Nowadays, Nowadays, pheasant is no no longer longer
hung, by 'until it it develops develops a a marked marked smell'. smell'.
Montaigne, 'until by Montaigne, ln pheasant was was not In Brillat-Savarin's time,
pheasant not considered fit Brillat-Savarin's time, considered fit for gastronome's
table for the the gastronome's table except except in in aa state state of of
complete complete putrefaction. putrefaction. This This authority authority
recommends, recommends, in in effect, effect, that that it it should green, so
should be be kept, kept, unplucked, unplucked, until until its its breast breast
turns turns green, so that held together that for for roasting roasting on on the
the spit spit it it has has to to be be held together by by aa slice slice of of
bread bread tied tied on on with ribbon. with ribbon. Apart Apart from from a a few
few sportsmen sportsmen in in love love with with tradition, tradition, most most
people people have have today today abandoned abandoned these these excesses.
excesses. Winged game, when game and ground game, for aa certain hung for Winged
game and ground when hung certain length pheasant. length of acquire a flavour
similar similar to to that that of of pheasant. of time, time, acquire a ftavour
This properly high is habit of This habit of hanging hanging meat meat until until
it it is is high is properly reprehended reprehendod by those concerned concerned
with hygiene, and and also also by by by those with hygiene, the gastronome. the
true true gastronome. FAISANDEAU pheasant. FAISAhIDEAU -- Young Young pheasant.
FAIS ELLE. FAISSELLE pottery basket used for for basket used Osier or or pottery
FAIssELLE -- Osier FAISELLE. draining residue the apple apple residue on which
which the Also the the table table on draining cheese. cheese. Also is brewing of
of cider. cider. drained after after the the brewing is drained FALCON. prey,
trained hunt on on the the trained to to hunt FAUcoN -- Bird Bird of of prey,
FALCON. FAUCON wing. and the French French botanist botanist and to Tournefort,
Tournefort, the wing. According According to traveller, (165G1708), it be need not
not be it is delicate to to eat eat and and need is delicate traveller, (1656--
1708), hung. hung. FALERNIAN celewine celeFALERNIAN WINE. Campagna wine WINE.
FALERNE FALERNE -- Campagna brated poet Horace. brated in in verse verse by Horace.
by the the poet FALLOW-DEER. FALLOW-DEER. DAIM DAtIra -- Wild Wild ruminant,
ruminant, somewhat somewhat rare rare in in France. France. It It is is known known
as as afawn afawn up up to to eight eight months. months. It It loses loses its
grown. A grown fallowits horns horns twice fully grown. twice before before it it
is is fully A fully fully grown·fallow-
FAIENCE FAïENCE

FAYENCE TABLEWARE TABLEWARE FAIENCE From top (op to 10 bottom: bOllom: Antique
Antique faience faïence of of Nevers, Nevers, Strasbourg, Strasbourg, From Rouen;
Modern Modern fai'ence faïence from from Jean Jean Luce Luce Rouen;

366
FAT
deer can be recognised by the palms between between the the branches branches of
its antlers. The female female of the fallow-deer fallow-deer is is called a doe.
the The meat of young fallow-deer very delicate. delicate. That That of orthe
fallow-deer is very full-grown animal is leathery leathery arxC and must must be be
steeped steeped in in a marinade. All AU recipes for roebuck (q.v.) (q.v.) are
suitable for fallow-deer. fallow-deer. Roast RoaSi haunch baunch of of fallow-deer
faUow-deer I Il I'anglaise. HANcm HANCffi DE DE DAIM DAIM n0rrs RÔTŒ .i, À
L'ANGLAIs L'ANGLAISE - The haunch haunch of fallow-deer fallow-deer (venison)
(venÎson) is highly prized in England England and is hung for quite quite a long
time until it is high. It Il keeps very well weil for several days if if care is
taken to hang it in a a room room well weli aired airOO by a draught. Before
hanging, the venison should be rubbed rubbOO all ail over with a mixture of flour
and pepper. The The purpose purpose of of the flour is to keep out the damp and
that of the pepper is i5 to keep keep away the flies. Before impaling the venison
on the spiq spit, trim triro it and coat with ordinary flour-and-water paste.
paste. Wrap it, coated with this securOO with several lengths of of lhis mixture,
mlxture, in thick paper secured string. Roast for 4 hours, basting frequently.
frequently. (Care (Care must be taken not to cut cUI the fat fat offthe off Ihe
venison. The fatter it is the fa \ter il Ihe better.) better.) Ten minutes minutes
before before removing T"PYT"lA'VII110 the roast from the spit, Ten ofl the unwrap
unwrap it it and and scrape off the flour-and-water paste. Pour salt and sprinkle
with salt and sprinkle melted over the venison venîson and meltoo butter over il
doser thal it il is well weil browned. flour. Put it closer to the fire so that
serve boiled With roast haunch of venison, it is is usual usual to serve and
redcurrant jelly. chestnut pur6e, and French or chestnut French beans beans or
Haunch of stag is is cooked in the same way, but is is less highly prized prizOO
than than that of fallow-deer.

It 11

can a breast breast of of veal veal with with can also also be be made made by by
stuffing a
a

forcemeat, cooking it it in in the the liquid Iiquid of forcemeat. cooking

pot-au-feu pot-au-feu (q.v.). (q.v.).

- Containing flour l'lOlif or or with with a a high starch rontent. Cereals,

Cereals. pulses, and potatoes potatoes are are usually usually starch content.
referred to as farinaceous farinaceous foods.

FARINACEOUS. FARINACEOUS. rlnNeux FARINEUX

FARINADA fARINADA (Genoese (Genoese cookery) cookery) - Gruel Gruel made made from
from the flour f10ur of of large large white white peas. peas. When cooked it il is
poured pourOO onto an oiled oilOO board, board, cut cut into into equal-sized
pieces, pieces, and and served served as as it il is. is. It is FARO FAROis
relatively relatively - Belgian beer, only slightly fermented. 1t sour and often
has sugar added to it. il.

FAR FAR POITEVIN - A A kind kÎnd of farci (q.v.) made in Poitou from and herbs
(sorrel, green cabbage, from green vegetables vegetables and white beet tops, tops.
lettuce). lettucc). These These are are shredded raw, raw, mixed with pork fat,
fat, blended blendOO with with cream cream and and eggs, eggs, with chopped choppOO
pork
flavoured chives and parsley, parsley, highly highly seasoned, seasonOO, ftavoured
with chopped chives and wrapped in green cabbage leaves leaves and lettuce leaves
lcaves (put (put in a net). It is then cooked in a hotpot containing fresh rresh
and salt pork and flavoured with vegetables. (U.S. shell) FASEOLE haricot (V.S.
shell) bean, cultivated cultivated FASÉOLE - Species of haricot in southem southern
regions. Prepared in the same same way as as Fresh Presh white haricot beans (see
BEAN).

(Confectionery) FANCHETTE or or FANCHONNETTE (COnfectiOIlCry) FAI\CHETTE is

scarcely gdteau, which was very popular in Ihe the past, is This gâteau, It is it
is excellent. Il a pity because il This is ever made made today. today. This is a
is excellent. ever for used for to that that usOO round baking tin tin similar ta
deep, round in a made a deep, made in hot pdtis. pâlés. Line a baking tin with
flaky pastry dough which has been Fill this times. Fill rolled out out and folded
into 3 upon itself, 6 times. rollOO cream, crust with a cream which is made like
French pastry cream, (4 oz., g. (4 yolks, 100 100 g. 12 egg egg yolks, ingredients:
12 with the the following ingrOOients: with (4 oz., g. (4 flour, 5 dl. oz., 1 I
cup) flour, scant cup) powdered sugar, 100 g. (scant pint,Zlcups) frestr thick
cream, I tablespoon vanillacream, 1 ofsalt. flavoured sugar, a pinch of salt. it is
is cold, cold, cover cover When it a slow slow oven. oven. When the gdteau in a
Bake Bake the meringue piped top with with meringue the top Decorate tbe meringue.
Decorate with with meringue. Brown in in the sugar. Brown with sugar. Sprinkle with
forcing bag. bag. Sprinkle through a a forcing oven. Serve warm. wann. subbe submay
be cream, elc. etc. may or almond almond cream, Coffee, chocolate, chocolate, or
stituted for vanilla cream.
green or or dry, dry, the stalks, stalks, green in France France to to the FAI\FS -
Name given in for fodder. of plants nol not cultivated for edible. Turnip Turnip
stalks stalks are edible. The fanes of sorne some pot vegetables are (turnip tops)
can only if if they they are are like spinach, spinach, but only can be cooked
cooked lîke (turnip soup is made From from radish radish 10ps, tops. is made
tender. An An excellent excellent soup tender. on must appear appear on In France,
France,thewordfantalsre FAI{TAISIE FANT A ISlE the wordfanlaisie must - In jams
etc.). products (fantaisie liqueurs, jams etc.). label of synthetic produclS the
label piece and not the piece and not sold by the France is is bread sold Pantaisie
in France Fantaisie bread in by weight.
is flour. The The Lerm term is from hard-wheat l'lour. made from FAR Porridge made
FAR - Porridge (tart) made made in in Brittany. Brittany. used for for a a flan
flan (tart) also usOO also

in It is is cooked cooked in south of of France. France. Il in the the south FARCI

Dish made made in F ARCl -- Dish form, its most most usual usual form, prepared in
In its in different different ways. ways. In stock and and prepared stock other
meat or or sorne some olher sausage meat stuffod with with sausage farci is the
thefarci is cabbage cabbage stuffed (U.S. cheesecloth) and cheesecloth) and in
muslin muslin (U.S. forcemeat, wrapped in forcemeat. cooked in in stock. cooked
(see SOUFASSUM). Farci can SOUFASSUM). nigoise (see can also d la la niçoise also
be prepared à Farci
367 367

at a substance which softens at FAT. cnusse FAT. GRAISSE - Greasy substance a low
low and in some in animal temperature. It is temperature. Il is found found in
animal tissue tissue and in sorne vegetable vegetable substances. animal tissue.
all muscular animal There are are fats fats in in almost ail tissue. Fat Fal It
fOnTIS forms deposits equal also surrounds many animal organs. It whole of the who
to at at least a a thirtieth of the weight of to thirtieth of le body. stearin,
olein There are three Ih ree principal constituents in fat: fat: stearin, normal
temperatures, solid at at normal and margarine. Stearin Stearrn is and is solid
consistency. olein is liquid, margarine has intermediate intermediate consistency.
foods and they of al! all foods and they calorific value of Fats have the highest
highest calorific the their being the cheap, but but two usually cheap, are usually
are two factors factors prevent their of satiety more most valuable of aIl. all.
They produce a feeling of a only tolerate a foods, and the system can only rapidly
than other foods. (toleration pointvaries from individual limited amount offal of
fat (toleration point varies from îndividual Iimited to individual). to natural
fats: of na diet must conlam contain a proportion The normal d iet must proportion
of tmal fats: (3 oz.) daily for for an adult. of 75 g. (3 an average of75 greater
amount amount i5 is neOOed. needed. a far cold countries a In very cold far greater
produced in in All falS fats produced o'fcoNotuIe -- AU fat. GRAISSE cRAIss
D'ÉCONOMIE Economy fat. Economy kinds, of various kînds, preparation of and
dripping ofvarious of pot-au-feu, the preparation pOI-au-feu, and preserved.
collected and preserved. be carefully collected should he used in the cooking of of
Once they are clarified, they can be usOO a variety of dishes. a fat skim off off
aIl all the the fat economy fal. Clarification of economy Clarification fal.
Carefully skim fine sieve sieve it through through a a fine of lhe the stock
stockpot. on the the surface of on pot. Strain Îl to get cold cold overnight. Leave
it it to bowl. Leave into an an earthenware bowl. into pour off, off, fat in in 2
places and and pour Next day, prick the of fat the layer of Next is underneath
underneath the the liquid which is all the liquid holes, ail through the holes,
fat. congealed fat. '-V'''I'i''<'''"'''' in the the cooking cooking liquid, the the
fal fat can can be usOO used in its liquîd, Separated from ilS 'Pl"'''T·''''''''
(it Îs for braisOO recommended for braised is especially rccommendOO vegetables (it
of vegetables of be used used for for frying. cannot be unless clarified, cannot
cabbage) but, uoJess process as for frying, frying, proccss as follows: fat is is
10 to be used for When fat heat, then over low heat, Melt the fat in saucepan
first.over low then over in a the fat a sauce Melt pan firstover giving off it
stops stops giving off higher flame. flame. Keep Keep on on the the boil boil until
until it a hîgher a pan remove the the pan steam. As As soon soon as as the the
steam steam stops stops rising, rcmove steam. the fat fat wiU and acquîre acquire a
a from the otherwise the will bum and stove; otherwise the stove; from sieve or or
muslin, muslin. Pour Pour a fine fine sieve bitter fiavour. flavour. Strain Strain
through through a bitter place. and store store in in a a cool. cool, dry dry
place, into an an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl and into further improved
improved by by the the addition addition of of a a third third This fat fat can can
be be funher This lard. of its its weight of of lard. of A FRITURE rntrunr --
Generally Generally made made from from Frying fst GRAISSE cRAIss À (suet).
clarified beef kidney kidney fat fat (suet).
FATTENING FATTENING
FATTENING. ENGRAISSEMENT sNcRArssEMENr -- Fattening process of Fattening is is the
the process of FATTENING. preparing animais animals for for slaughter slaughter by
by increasing increasing their their weight weight preparing quality of and
improving improving the thequality of their their flesh. flesh. This This is is
made and mademore more nourishing and and flavoursome flavoursome by penetration of
by the the penetration nourishing of fat fat between the the muscles, muscles, and
and inside inside the the muscles muscles themselves. themselves. between

Bulbous Bulbousstem stem

offennel offennel

FAUBONNE -- A A thick thick soup soup made pur6e of made with with purée FAUBONNE
of white white (U.S. shell) julienne of haricot (V.S. shell) beans plainjulienne
beans with with aaplain haricot of vegetables vegetables (See SOVPS added. (See
SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.) added.
(Wild animais) I'AWES (Wild animals) -- French French hunting hunting tenn term
used FAUVES used espeespecially of of animais animals of of the the deer family,
such deer family, cially such as as stag, stag, fallow-deer, fallowdeer, chamois,
and and roebuck, roebuck, as as opposed game such opposed to chamois, to black
black game such as as boar, and game such and red red game such as fox. as fox.
boar, FILEf, or FALIX FILET or CONTRE-FILET CONTRE-FILET -- See See BEEF, BEEF,
Contre FAUX Contre filet. filet. FAVEROLLFS -- Name Name used used in in the the
south FAVEROLLES south of France for of France for ail all (U.S. shell) kinds of
haricot (V.S. of haricot shell) beans. beans. These These are kinds are also also
called called and,favioles in this this region. region. faverottes favioles in
faverottes and FAVRE -- Joseph Joseph Favre Favre was was not not only FAVRE only
one greatest one of of the the greatest nineteenth-century chefs, chefs, but but
also also one one of nineteenth-century of the the finest finest writers writers on
culinary culinary matters. matters. He He was was the the author author of on of
the the Dictionnaire Dictionnaire universel de de cuisine et d'hygiène cuisine et
d'hygiine alimentaire, alimentaire, a universel a work in four work in four
volumes, which contains contains not not only only a volumes, a large number number
of recipes, of recipes, but a a very very interesting history history of of
cookery. cookery. but Joseph Favre Favre was was also also the founder of the
founder Joseph of the the first first Academy Academy of Cookery. His His bust bust
was was moved moved to of to l'Académie I'Acadimie culinaire culinaire de de in
1953. 1953. France in FAWN. FAoN -- The The young of a FA WN. FAON a roe-doe, roe-
doe, hind hind or or fallow-doe. preparation of of fawn, see ROEBVCK. For the
preparation ROEBUCK.

FEDELIM -- Italian pasta pasta in FEDELINI in the the fonn form of narrow narrow
ribbons. All recipes for macaroni (q.v.) are suitable for fedelini. Ali
FEI\DANT (Wine) Name of a FENDANT a Valais Valais vine, vine, cultivated cultivated
in - Name the Vaud Vaud Canton the Canton in in Switzerland, Switzerland, said said
to to be be a variety of a variety of Chasselas. Wine made made from from Fendant
grapes has Fendant grapes has a a strong aroma and is very heady. FENIYEL. FENourL
FENNEL. FENOUIL Aromatic flowering flowering umbelliferous umbelliferous - Aromatic
plant Italian origin which is now widely cultivated. It has plant of ltalian a
slight flavour of aniseed. a The edible part The part of this this plant plant is
is the the very very fleshy fleshy bulbous stem at the base of leaf stalk. This
stem, which in French of the leaf cookery cookery is is callod called fenouil
fenouil tubéreux, which the tubireux, and and which the ltalians, Italians, who are
very fond fond of it, finocchio, is is cooked like celery. it, cali call finocchio,
It can eaten raw It can be be eaten raw or or cooked. cooked. In In England England
it is called it is Florence Florence fennel. fennel. Both the bulbous stem and the
leaves leaves of fennel plant of the fennel are are used used in cookery cookery to
to flavour a a large large number of dishes. Fennel is an excellent condiment.
condiment.

Fennel Fennelwith with bone-marrow. bonemarrow. FENOUIL FENourL À ruoerrB-- Braise

A LA rl MOELLE Braise in (see below). in meat meat stock stock (see below).
Complete Completecooking cooking as asfor forCardoons Cardoons with (seeCARDOON).
with marrow marrow (see CARDOON). Fennel Fennel braised braised in in meat meat
stock. stock. FENOUIL FENourL AU AU GRAS cRAs - - Trirn Trim the the fennel fennel
stems. stems. Parboil Parboil for for 5 5 minutes minutes in in boiling boiling
salt salt water. water. Cool Cool under under running running water. water. Drain,
Drain, and and dry dry in in aa clotho cloth. Quarter them or, or, if if they they
are are small, small, leave leave whole. whole. Put Put them thern in in Quarter
them an an ovenproof ovenproof dish pork skin, dish lined lined with with pork
skin, and and sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots. carrots. Moisten Moisten
with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons rather rather fat fat stock. stock.
Bring Bring to to the the boil. pan and boil. Coyer Cover the the pan and cook cook
slowly slowly in in the the oyen. oven. Fennel Fennel in in cream. FENourL À cream.
FENOUn.. A LA u CRÈME cntrran -- Fennel Fennel stems, stems. simmered simmered in
in butter butter or or braised braised in in meat meat stock stock as as indicated
indicated above, put into above, can into aa cream can be be put cream sauce sauce
and simmered for and simmered for aa few few minutes minutes before before serving.
serving. Fennel gratin. FENOUIL Fennel au au gratin. FENourL AU AU GRATIN cRArrN --
Cook Cook the the fennel fennel stems stems in in butter butter or or braise braise
in in meat meat stock. stock. Put Put them them in in aa buttered buttered ovenware
ovenware dish, dish, sprinkle grated cheese, sprinkle with with grated cheese, and
and pour pour on on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in in the oven. the
oyen. Fennel gravy. FENOUIL Fennel in in gravy. FENourL AU AU JUS JUs -- Braise
Braise in in meat meat stock. stock. Simmer Simmer for for a a few few minutes
minutes in in concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Fennel
grecque. FENOUIL Fennel à i la la grecque. FENourL À r.l, GRECQUE cnrceus --
Proceed A LA Proceed as as indicated indicated for grecque. (See for Artichokes
Artichokes à (See ARTICHOKE.) d la la grecque. ARTICHOKE.) Fennel prepared in
Fennel prepared in this this way way is is served served as as an an hors-d'oeuvre.
hors-d'oeuvre. FENNEL-PEAR FENNELPEAR or or FENOWLET. FENOWLET. FENOUILLET
FENouTLLET -- Variety Variety of of pear tes slightly pear which which tas tastes
slightly of of aniseed. aniseed. Three Three varieties varieties are are grown
grown in gris, fenouillet in France: fenouillet gros, and and the the fenouillet
gris, fenouillet gros, fenouillet rouge. fenouillet rouge. FENNEL-WATER.
FENNBLWATER. FENOUILLETTE FENourLLErre -- Liqueur Liqueur made made
comcommercially, mercially, obtained from from fennel fennel seeds. seeds.
FENUGREEK. FENUGREC reNucREc -- Vnusual Unusual Asiatic Asiatic herb herb with with
slightly slightly bitter bitter aromatic aromatic seeds seeds sometimes sometimes
used used in in making making curry. curry. FÉRA fEna of salmon found found in in
Lake Lake Geneva Geneva and and several several - Breed of other lakes in in
Switzerland, Bavaria, and and Austria. Austria. This fish fish is is similar to to
the the laveret, laveret, but but the the two two differ differ in in body is is
more shape. Theféra's Thefira'sbody more compact, compact, its its scales scales
are larger, are larger, and itsjaws, back, are its jaws, sloping sloping obliquely
obliquely back, are somewhat somewhat truncated. truncated. The colouring of féra
varies varies with of the the fira with the the season, season, the the age age of
the fish, and and its to distinguish of its habitat. It It is is easy easy to
distinguish the the different different white fera is found in very deep waters;
varieties because because the the white fera is found in very deep waters; the féra
n in waters waters of average depth; féra, the black fera of average depth; the the
blue blue fira, is really a youngféra, has has a a bluish rather than greenish
which is ayotngfira. bluish rather than greenish on the the upper upper part of of
its its body. body. shimmer on

Sprig offennel of fennel Sprig

Féra

368 368
FESTIVE FESTIVECOOKERY cao KER y
The The Lake Lake Geneva Geneva fira féra is is the the most most highly highly
prized. prized. It lt is îs generally generally thought Ihought that that the the
best best Lake Lake Geneva Genevafira féra are are those those caught sandbank
called called the the Travers Travers where where the lhe water water caught on on
the the sandbank is is very shallow shallow and and which which forms fonns a a
barrier barrier across across the the lake lake near of Geneva. Geneva. This This
fish, fish, which which fills iBis out out very very near the port port of rapidly
rapidly by by feeding feeding on on a a winged winged insect insect callod called
the the caddis-fly, caddis-fly, is is very very fat, fat, white, white, and and
extremely extremely delicate. delicate. The The fishermen fishermen of of Geneva
Geneva sell sell it it under under the the name name of of Fdra Féra du du Travers.
Travers. F6ra Féra ià la la meunibre meunière - Scale, Scale, gut, gut, and and
wash wash the the fdra. féra. Dry Dry thoroughly in flour flour thoroughly and and
season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip in and in fresh
fresh butter bulter over over a a moderate moderate heat. heat. and cook cook in
Baste Baste frequently frequently with with the the cooking butter. butter. When
When cooked, cooked, drain drain the the fish fish and and sprinkle with with
choppod parsley. Pour Pour on on a a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice
and and the the cooking butter, piping hot. hot. Serve at once. once. Serve at
FERCHUSE FERCHlJSE - Culinary speciality speciality of of Burgundy. Irt In former
former il was was traditionally made made on 00 the Ihe day when the the pig pig
times it times 11s name name ferchuse ferchuse is a a corruption corruption of of
fressure fressure was killed. killed. Its was (pluck) (Pluck) (q.v.). (q.v.). in it
it 500 500 g. saucepan with with a heavy base. base. Melt Melt in Use a large
saucepan (generous (generous I lb.) fresh fresh chopped pork fat. Bring Bring to to
the tbe boil, put in all al! the the pork pluck (heart, liver, and lungs) cut CUl
into into pieces and seasoned with salt, pepper, and spices. spices. Brown the
pluck very very quickly. When browned, sprinkle sprinkle with (seant i cup) flour.
fiouL Mix Mix well, stirring stirring wirh 3 tablespoons (scant ".tp) with a Îs
golden. golden. a wooden spoon, and cook until until the flour flour is patt of
water or Moisten Moisten with 2 parts red wine and I 1 part ofwater or stock'
stock. There There should should be be enough liquid liquid to to cover caver the
the pluck pluck completely. steadily, Bring Bring to the boil. As soon as the
liquid is boiling steadily, and a a of garlic, and cloves of crushed cloyes
shallots, 6 crushcd add 8 chopped sballots, add add I hour, for 1 slowly for garni.
Simmer Simmer slowly large bouquet garni. large hour, then then add lard, in lard,
which have been browned in chopped onions which 6 iarge, large, chopped simmer
potatoes. Continue to to simmer quartered potatoes. l0 or or 12 l2large, and 10 and
large, quanered 45 minutes. for a a further 45
volumes. the list List for for themselves, themselves, by volumes. Readers Readers
may expand the noting dishes they they discover dÎscover in in their noting the the
recipes recipes of festive dishes travels. travels. We We have have drawn drawn
largely largely from from the the Manuel Manuel de de folklore folklore
contemporain contemporain (A. (A. et et J. J. Picard Picard et et Cie, Cie, Paris)
Paris) by by A. A. Van Van Dictons Vieux (no and Gennep Gennep (no longer longer
available), and Vieux Dictons de de nos nos campagiles (New Editions Editions of la
Toison Toison d'Or, d'Or, 1952) 1952) by by G. G. campagnes (New Bidault of these
these Bidault de de L'Isle. L'Isle. We We cannot cannot speak speak too too highly
highly of works. works. Eprphany (6 January). iprprrlNIn ÉPIPHANIE - The The Romans
Romans usod used to 10 vote vote with beans, and it was was with with beans beans
that that they chose cbose the tbe traditional of the the feast' fcast' at at the
the Saturnalian Satumalian banquets: V<"''-I''''''~ Iraditional 'king 'king of the
the king king being being the the one one who who drew drew the the bean. bean.
This This pagan pagan form the different a slightly persisted in but ceremony
"''''''Pn"'''M,\I persisted but in a slightly different form - the bean being
placed in the the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake. cake. placed in About a century
ago ago there there was was controversy over over the the origin origin of of this
this ceremony. ceremony. Some maintained maintained that that the idea idea itself
itself was was a better with forward no-one came Since blasphemous. blasphemous.
Since no-one came forward with a better china explanation, a small srnall cbina
explanation, the the bean bean was was hastily hastily replaced by a doll dol!
which wbich was was meant meant to to represent represent the Child Child Jesus
whom whorn the the Magi to adore adore on on this this day day of of Epiphany.
Epiphany. Magi had bad come come to On this. long before detractors had its The The
custom custom had it'> detractors long before lhis. On 30 30 December December 1972
1972 a a motion motion of of censure censure proposed by by the the citizen citizen
Scipion Duroure encouraged encouraged the the councillors of of the the
municimuniciScipion Duroure pality of Paris Paris to to pass pass a a decree
decl'ee declaring dedaring that that from from 6 6 January January pa lit y of
(feast Magi) the of des Rois te feast called 1793, 1793, the the feast ca lied fête
des Rois (feast of the Magi) would would be des Sans-Culottes Sans-Culottes (feast
of of the the Extrerne Extreme be called called flte des Republicans)
"nllhllf'''n~l - and and the the bean bean continued to to be be drawn' drawn. And
so so all over over France France and and in in many maoy other other countries
countrÎes continues. cake continues. of the besides, besides, the the tradition
tradition of the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake The region. according to It It
takes takes different differenl forms forms according to the the Tbe g0teau of
cake; that of or fruit cake; is a a brioche for instance, of Sa Savoy, of voy, fol'
instance, is brioche or its sugar among among ils candied sugar and candied
cinnamon and Verviers has Verviers has cinnamon It gdteau belongs to Paris. Paris.
lt pastry gâteau belongs to flaky pastry The flaky ingredients. The ingredients.
resented the pdtissiers but the the bakers, bakers, but made by to he be made usod
to usoo by the pâtissiers resented pdtissiers since since the pâtissiers side of of
the the side was on on the and parliament was this, and this, bakers the bakers All
the the same same the make il. it. Ail to make used to were uscd eggs were butter
and eggs butter conthey con1914, they to about about 1914, up to and, up the day
day and, won the eventually won eventually gdteau on 6 January. January. on 6 the
famous famous gâteau to seU sell the tinued to ünued of Saint Saint body of (22
January) the body Since the January) - Since Vincent (22 Saint Vincent Saint to
then to and then to Burgundy and first to transferred .first was transferred
Vincent was Vincent the become the naturally enough, become has, naturally saint
has, this saint Champagne, rhÎs Champagne, people of of the people time the
growers. At At one one time patron saint vine grewers. of the the vine saint of
patron holding a a garpass without without holding let his his day day pass never
let Burgundy never EarBurgundy this revived this du tâte-vin tite-vin revlved The
Chevaliers Chevaliers du gantuan 'pig 'pig feast'. feast'. The ganluan 1934. in
1934. custom in custom to the custom custom to to be be the it used used to in
Yonne. Yonne, il At Ligny~le-Châtel. Ligny-le-Chatel in At the (the mirlOlné) with
the along with pastry (the mirlouzQ along of pastry made of a figure figure made
offer a offer daY. this day. on this bread on consecrated bread consecrated
conVincent conof Saint Saint Vincent the feast feast of Mdcon, the of Mâcon, In the
the region of In haricot made of of haricot was made which was couques which callod
eouques of a a dish called sisted of sistoo made fritters made variety of of
fntters goose fat, and a a variety fat, and in goose cookod in beans cooked beans
thick there were were thick Sometimes there apples. Sometimes or apples. brioche,
or with bread, bread, brioche, with pancakes called matefaims. called maœfaims.
pancakes a was once once a (28 Janl.lsry) This was January) - This Saint
Chrrlemagne (28 Saint those at at for those for schoolchildren especially for
festival day day for festÎval (The held. (The great banquet banquet used to be
beld. A great school. A boarding school. boarding presided the one over III
Napoleon prince, young son of over the one young prince, son of Napoleon III and
'cbampagne' 'champagne' in 1868) and held at at the the lycee Louis-le-grand in
held was address was An address was drunk ! An solely of bubbles was that consisted
solely that day, next day, and next listened, and given in to which which nobody
listened, Latin to in Latin given teachers, slumbering teachers, or slumbering by
sick or presided over over by classes were were presided dasses for the the year.
once again for satiated once Year. satiated is Candlemasis LECHANDELEUR cHANDELEIIR
-- Candlemas Candlemas (2 February). LE Candlemas one on on M"ry; the theone Virgin
Mary; of the the Virgin of the Purification of the Feast Feast of the (lachandelle)
in remembrance remembrance lit in islit chandelle) is virginal candIe candle (la
thevirginal which the which in ofJerusalem, Jerusalern, in temple of at the the
temple Jesusat of Jesus the presentation of of the of pagln Roman limes times
aapagan InRoman Moses. In law of of Moses. the law with the accordance with
~rr'Arf1!ll~"'p

FERMENTFERMENT - The agent, living or not, that induces fermentation.

induced by by Ihe the The chemical chemical change change induced FERMBNTATION
FERMENTATION - The action of of bacteria. action FERMENTATIoN ALCOOLIQUE. AI,coor-
tQur -- Sec See Alcoholfo fermentatÎon. fermentation. FERMENTATION Alcohollc
ALCOHOL, WINE, BEER. WINE, BEER. LAcTIQLJE See milk. FERMENTATION FERMENTATIoN
LACTIQUE Fermentation of of milk. - Sec MILK, CHEESE. M ILK, CHEESE. PUTRIDE
FERMENTATIoN PUTRIDE See fementation. FERMENTATION Putrid fermentation. Putrid See
PUTREFACTION. PUTREFACTION.
braised of preparing braised (A LA) -- Special method method of FERMIÈRE FERMBRE (À
garnish of carrois, carrots, turnips, a garnish meat, with a pot-roasted meat, or
or pot-roasted very tender. until very in butter butter until slowly in cooked
slowly onions cooked and onions celery, celery, and (See FONDUE, Vegetable fondue.)
FONDUE, Vegetahle (See fondue.) (such ferns (such young shoots certain rems of
certain shoots of The young FouctRE -- The FERN. FOUGÈRE FERN. served and can can
be be served are edîble edible and bracken) are and bracken) fern and the male male
fem as the as stalks. male hop-flower hop-flower stalks. like male like

Customs cALENDAIRE -- Customs cuIsINE CALENDAIRE COOKERY. CUISINE FESTM COOKERY.

FESTIVE to or to the year, to religion Ol' of the days of certain days linked to to
certain closely lînkcd c10sely and plenty of give plenty opportunity for
celebrations; and of opportunity legend, give Many sosofood. Many for special
special food. call for enough, caU naturally enough, these, naturally eaten
througbout throughout those eaten to those similar to aresimilar dishes are called
'festive' 'festive' dishes called and occasions and to certain certainoccasions
year; sorne de rigueur to belong de the year; some belong the This chapter indudes
includes times.This at other times. so popular at not be may nOI be50 as the the
circumstances (such as specialities servod in particular circumstances onfixed
fixed and and offered on as those those offered grain or grape harvest) as aswell
well as orgrape grain days. moveablefeast feast days. moveable cuisine all
traditional traditionalcuisine includeail to include impossible 10 It would be
impossible would be Tt several requireseveral would require that would disposal --
that space at at our ourdisposai in tbe the space in
369 369

-
FESTIVECOOKER COOKERY FESTIVE y
festival called Lupercalia was held near this date. Gelasius, festival called
Lupercalia was held near this date. Gelasius, who was Pope in 472, rcplacd, this
festival by Candlemas. who was Pope in 472, replaced this festival by Candlemas.
Since Candlemas fell just as winter endod and spring began, Since Candlemas felI
just as winter ended and spring began, the food was flour-based (otd wheat to
encourage the new). the food was flour-based (old wheat to encourage the new).
Fritters were served (butter and oil rouligneaux) and panFritters were served
(butter and oil rouligneaux) and pancakes galore. cakes galore. The pancake custom
goes back a long way. The Minagier The paneake eus tom goes back a long way. The
Ménagier de Paris cites that, in the fourteenth century, the rule for a de Paris
cites that, in the fourteenth century, the rule for a good pancake batter was that
it be 'ni clire ni espoisse, was that it be 'ni clère ni espoisse' good pancake
batter (neither too thin nor too thick). And for superstition's sake, (neither too
thin nor too thick). And for superstition's sake, one had to toss the pancake
higher than the kitchen cupone had to toss the pancake higher than the kitchen
cupboard while holding coin in the hand. board while holding aacoin in the hand.
Napoleon tossed one (badly) before he left for Russia. Napoleon tossed one (badly)
before he left for Russia. At Montbard, biscuits are made from a mixture of flour
At Montbard, biscuits are made from a mixture of fioul' and fat formed into human
human shapes shapes whose whose features features are are and fat formed into
marked with five haricot beans. These are called mariottes marked with five haricot
beans. These are called mariolles

InNivernais, Nivernais,the theShrove Shrove Tuesday Tuesday meal mealwas: was: In

Clearsoup soup with pasta with pasta Clear Boiled beef beefand andvegetables
vegetables Boiled Coqau vinor orchicken auvin chickenin inwhite white sauce sauce
Coq Roast turkey goose turkeyor orgoose Roast Salad seasoned garlic and
seasonedwith withgarlic andnut nutoil oil Salad goats'milk WhitegoalS' cheese with
with cream cream White milk cheese Prune tart tart Prune Burnt marc (indispensable)
marc brandy brandy (indispensable) Bumt

or marionnelles. The feast of onelettes (10 Febmary). rl rfrr DEs oMELETTES Tbe
fellst of omelettes (Hl Fehl1lllry). LA fÈ'IE DES OMELETIES This is how the
villagers celebrate the retum of the sun at -- This is how the villagers celebrate
the retum of the sun at Andrieux in the Hautes-Alpes. The valley in which this
Andrieux in the Hautes-Alpes. The valley in which this village lies is bereft of
the sun's rays for about a hundred of the sun's rays for about a hundred village
lies is bereft days a year. On l0 February the reappearance ofthe sun is days a
year. On 10 February the reappearance of the sun is the signal for general
rejoicing. All the inhabitants busily the signal for general rejoicing. Ali the
inhabitants busily prepare omelettes. At l0 a.m. these are carried to the square.
prepare omelettes. At 10 a.m. thesc are carried to the square. The most venerable
and and aged aged of of the the inhabitanlS inhabitants preside preside The most
venerable over the succeeding ceremony at which everyone dances the over the
succeeding ceremony at which everyone dances the holding their their omelette pans
in omelette pans in their their hands. hands. The farandole holding The farandole
whole gathering then goes to a stone bridge and the omelettes whoJe gathering then
goes to a stone bridge and the omelettes are placed on the parapets. When the sun
peeps over the are placed on the parapets. When the sun peeps over the horizon
about midday, the omelettes are offered to it. Home horizon about midday, the
omelettes are offered to il. Home then, where every household makes and ealS eats
ilS its own own then, where every household makes and 'sacred' omelette in
thanksgiving. 'sacred' omelette in than ksgiving. fst April - The sun happened to
be in the constellation of lst AprilThe sun happened to be in the constellation of
Pisces on date and the idea of poisson d'avril (April fish Pisces on this this date
and the idea of poisson d'avril (April fish or fool) was born. Since I April was
onoe the first day of the or fool) was born. Since 1 April was once the tirst day
of the year, gifts were exchanged, particularly sweetmeats in the year, gifts were
exchanged, particularly sweetmeals in the form of fish. These were form of fish.
These were the the forerunners forerunners of of the the chocolate chocolate fish
that we know today, which are just as characteristic of fish that we know today,
which are just as characteristic of Easter as chocolate Easter eggs. Eastel' as
chocolate Easter eggs. (25 Saint Saint Mark Mark (25 April) April) - In In the the
Baux Baux de de Provence, Provence, ringringshapod biscuits called toques are
blessed and eaten. shaped biscuit<; called lOques are blessed and eaten. Shrove
Tuesday and Carnival. ulr.or cRAs ET cARNAVAL Sbrove Tuesday and Carnival. MARDI
GRAS ET CARNAVALDepending upon when Easter Day falls, Shrove Tuesday is Depending
upon when Easter Day falls, Shrove Tuesday is celebratod somewhere between 2
February and 9 March. celebrated somewhere between 2 February and 9 March. Carnival
Carnival begins begins on on 6 6 January January and and can can therefore
therefore last last for for anything between twenty-eight and sixty-six days. In
the anything between twenty-eigbt and sixt y-six days. In the olden days it was
particularly on Shrove Tuesday, the last olden days it was particularly on Shrove
Tuesday, the la st day before Lent, that day before Lent, that Carnival Carnival
reached reached its ilS height. height. The The fattened ox with its accorirpanying
traditions was one of the fattened ox with ilS accompanying traditions was one of
the biggest attractions of the festival. Nowadays, in Burgundy biggest attractions
of the festival. Nowadays, in Burgundy and Dauphin6, Carnival delicacies are
pancakes, frittirs oi and Dauphiné, Carnival delicacies are pancakes, fritters or
bugnes, milk gruel, snake-shaped gdteaux called fantaisies. bugnes, milk gruel,
snake-shaped gâteaux called fantaisies. Another Burgundy speciality is cheese which
is cooked in the Another Burgundy spet.-iality is cheese which is cooked in the
cinders. cinders. It's It's Mardi Mardi Gras Gras

or marionnettes.

I'll l'Il make make you you pancakes pancakes you will eat them-o! And And you will
eat them-o!
In Champagne, pig's trotter always used to be eaten; its In Champagne, pig's
trotter always used to be eaten; its ear in Ardeche. In Touraine, it used to be leg
of goat; in ear in Ardèche. ln Touraine, il used to be leg of goat; in Limousin, a
stuffed rabbit; in Quercy, an enonnolrs vol-auLimousin, a stuffed rabbit; in
Quercy, an enormous vol-auvmt frlled with jointed chickens and accompanied by
salsify ven/ filled with jointed chickens and accompanied by salsify sauce) in the
Confolens region, they usod to feast upon sauce) in the Confolens region, they used
10 feast upon stuffod breast of veal. stuffed breast of veal. In Provence, the last
big meal before Lent had to be an ln Provence, the last big meal before Lent had to
be an atoli. a/oli. Pies and flans used to be eaten in H6rault. Pies and flans used
to be eaten in Hérault.
370 370

You You mustn't mustn't go go

And al! all over over France, France, people people feasted feasted themselves
themselves on panon panAnd cakes, fritters, fritters, waffles, waffies, and and
various various biscuits biscuits and and cakes. cakes" cakes, In Les Les Landes,
Landes, the the cook cook knew knerr that that her het cruspels cruspets were were
In perfectly baked baked when, when, if if she she sharply sharply rapped rapped
the the terrine terrine perfectly containing them them with with her her knuckles,
knuckles, it it broke. broke. containing There were were also also cornious,
cornious, merveilles merveilles and (fied and, bollereaux bottereaux (fried There
biscuits). In In Touraine, Touraine, there (small fried there were russeroles
(small were russeroles fried biscuits). yeast biscuits). biscuits). yeast The
faverol/es of Sainte-Menehould Sainte-Menehould were were made made with with The
faverolles of butter, nour flour and and eggs. eggs. butter, In Marne, Marne, they
they ate ate the the defeated defeated fighting fighting cockerels; cockerels; and
and In in the the Ardennes, Ardennes, a gigantic omelette a gigantic omelette
marked marked the the end end of of the the in period. egg-eating egg-ea ting
period. In Sologne, Sologne, they they made made beugnons beugnow (pasta (pasta
browned browned in in a a In pan) or frying pan) or slices slices of of white white
bread bread dipped dipped in in frying frying batter. frying giteaux of The gâteaux
of Reims Reims were four-horned. four-horned. The In Alsace, Alsace, at at
Ossenbach Ossenbach and and elsewhere, elsewhere, slices slices of dried of dried
In apples and pears were served and pears served with bacon bacon or ham. ham. The
same The sa apples me dish was was called called séchu siclw in n Territoue-de-
Belfort. Territoirede-Belfort. dish In the the Côte-d'Or Cdte-d'Or and and in in
Isère, Isdre, a a cheese cheese soup soup began In began the meal. mea!. Lent.
cmfrrm eggs, no fat, no Lent is unt. CARÊME No eggs, no fat, no meat. meal. Lent is
sym- No bolised cod and and the herring, two fish fish that that could bolised by
by the the cod the herring, could be conserved in various conserved in various
ways. ways. In In Bordeaux, Bordeaux, this this period pericx! of penitence on a
one journeying penitence began began on a merry merry note note by by one
journeying to Caud6ran to the 10lls lous limacs Caudéran to eat eat the Iimacs
cendrdis cendréis (snails cooked in the the ashes). ashes). At in Arddche, Ardèche,
a a special special dish dish was created crealed for At Usclades, Usclades, in
Lent: Lent: pieces pieces of of a a cheese called called Sarrasoune, and and pieces
pieces of other other varieties varieties of of cheese, cheese, were were placed
placed in in an earthenware earthenware jar jar with with salt, salt, vinegar
vinegar and and mustard mustard and set aside aside to 10 ferment ferment for for
three three weeks. weeks. The The result result was was a rather rather sticky
sticky mess mess with with a a very very strong strong flavour. flavour. One One
had had to to become become slowly slowly accustomod accustomed to to the the
rigours rigours of of the the long long period period of of fasting, fasting,
during during which which even ev en eggs eggs were were forbidden under the Ancim
Ancien Rigime. Régime. The The first Iirst Sunday Sunday of of forbidden under Lent
Lent offered offered some sorne alleviation, alleviation, and and resultod resultcd
in in the the kilchlis küchlis of of Alsace Alsace (crown-shaped (crown-shaped
gAteaux), gâteaux), the the bugnes bugnes of of Beaujolais, Beaujolais, and and
carpe carpe brandonniire brandonnière (enjoyed (enjoyed by by the the inhabitants
inhabitants of of Mareuil Mareuil in in Touraine Touraine as as well weil as as
those those of of Sa6ne-et-Loire). Saône-ct-Loire). In ln Franche-Comte Franche-
Comtè and and French French Switzerland, Switzerland, there there were were the
thepiqueris, piquerés, piuis picrés or orpiconis piconés (peas (peas fried fried in
in pork pork fat) fat) which which the the young young married married couples
couples offered offered to to their their guests. guests. These These appear appear
again again in in Yonne, Yonne, under under the the name name of of guernaulie
guernaulée or or gr6lie. grôlée. A A dish dish of ofpeas peas cooked cooked first
tirst in in water, water, then then saut6ed sautécd in in lard, lard, is is
variously variously called called dimanche dimanche an au Piquerey, Piquerey, au au
picoui, Picoué, dl dé pwd, Pwé, des etc. des Botdges, Bofdges, des des Piquirds,
Piquérés. etc. In In Vermenton, Vermenton, ichaudis échaudés and and a a pint pint
of of wine wine were were distridistributed. buted. Mid-Lent. Mid-unt. r.l LA nrr-
c,mfrran Ml-CARÊME -- Halfway Halfway through througb Lent Lent was was the
accompanied by by the signal signal for for celebrations celebrations everywhere,
everywhere, accompanied drinking drinkingsessions sessionsand and feasts. feasts.
In In Alsace, Alsace, girls girls made made special special gdteaux gâteaux which
which they they distridistributed men; in in Hazebrouck, Hazebrouck, nuts nuts were
were tossed tossed buted to to the the young young men; into intothe thestreets.
strects.(These (Thesenuts, nuls,ititwas wassaid, said,had had the themiraculous
miraculous power powerof ofcuring curingtoothache.) toothache.) Pahn Plilm Sundry.
Sunday. LEs LES RAMEAuX RAMEAUX -- Or Or the Ihe first first Sundav Sunday in in
FESTIVE FESTIVECOOKERY COOKERY
Spring, Spring, because because the the blossom blossom appears appears on on the
Ihe boxwood boxwood and and the the first firsi spring spring flowers flowers are
are ready ready to 10 be be picked. picked. In In provincial provincial France
France the the children children attend attend Mass Mass bearing bearing a a latge
large branch branch of of boxwood boxwood hung hung with with ribbons, ribbons,
chocolates chocolates or or candies, candies, apples apples or or prunes, prunes,
uoquets croquets (little (Iitlle crisp crisp almond almond biscuits), biscuits),
candied candied fruit fruit or or waffies. waffies. In In Brittany Brittany and and
Anjou, Anjou, the the branches branches are are laurel laurel or or rosemary.
rosemary. In ln the the Nice Nice region, region, the tbe branches branches used
used to to be be decorated decorated with with candiod candied fruit fruit (apple,
(apple, pear, pear, orange) orange) and and little Httle biscuit biscuit men. These
biscuit biscuit figures figures are are also also found found in in Auvergne
Auvergne men. These where where they they are are called cali cd bougeois.In
bougeois. ln Savoy Savoy they Ihey are are animalanimalshaped. shaped. In In
Dauphin6, Dauphiné, besides besides these these figures, figures, there there are
are tortilles tortilles which which are are crown-shaped crown-shaped giteaux.
gâteaux. In In Sarlat, Sarlat, the the biscuit biscuit figures figures are arc
called called colombes colombes and and their their features features are are
marked marked with with aniseed. aniseed. In In Arddche Ardèche they they are are
called called pantins, pantins, ,suil.reJ, suisses, or or estives. estèves.
Elsewhere, Elsewhere, gdteaux, gâteaux, sweetmeats, sweetmeats, and and 'red'eggs
'red' eggs abound. abound. In ln Aveyron, Aveyron, we we find find star-shaped
star-shaped biscuits biscuils called chaudels, along along with with aniseed
aniseed dwarfs dwarfs and and biscuit biscuit called chaudels, figures. S-shaped or
or crown-shaped crown-shaped pdtisseries pâtisseries ate are the the figures. S-
shaped specialities specialities in in Perpignan. Perpignan. In ln Creuse, Creuse,
it it is is a a cock; cock; in in Aubusson, Aubusson, a a rosary rosary of of
meringues meringues with with a ribbon ribbon threaded threaded through through
them. them. Tlrc The cornus, cornudos, cornudos, and cornuelles cornuelles found
found in in Limousin, Limousin, Angoumois, Angoumois, and P6rigord Périgord are
triangular biscuits. biscuits. In In Berry, Berry, there there are are marmottes
(little (Iittle round round biscuits). biscuits). In In Bergerac, Bergerac, around
around the the year year 1890, 1890, the the branches were were decorated decorated
with with salted fish); sardinoux (tiny (tiny salted fish); and and in in Quercy,
real real fish fish were wcre served with the fouaces (gftdle (girdle cakes). JEuDI
sAINr Murndy Maundy Thursday. Tbursday. JEUDl SAINT - In ln Alsace, nothing nothing
but but everyalmost everygreen vegetables vegetables are eaten in the the home.
home. But But almost (particularly choir where else this is is the day where where
children children (particularly choir and pennies. collecting eggs boys) go go from
door to door colJecting eggs and pennies. dish The most sAINr VENDREDI SAINT most
traditional traditional dish Good Friday. vENDR-EDI - The C6te-d'Or, lentils on the
the Côte-d'Or, in Selongey, on is still still cod; but in is lenlils have have
bretzels Alsace, bretzels in Alsace, while in to be eaten to wash away one's sins;
while pledge a pledge are a young engaged engaged couples are by young in unison by
crunched in crunched conwere conFriday were on Good Good Friday love. Eggs
'gathered' on of eternal love. qualities. special qualities. to have special
everywhere to sidered almost everywhere other lasagne and and olher valley, lasagne
Meuse valley, in the the Meuse and in In Lorraine Lorraine and ln or they they
vinegar; or in vinegar; dipped in and dipped lozenges and pasta into lozenges are
cul cut into pas ta are cooked being cooked by being of Moselle by tArcb$ of or
tâtelots tdtelats or the tâtelats become become the vinaigrette. with vinaigrette.
seasoned with water and and seasoned in water in pAeurs -- The Maundy on Maundy
eggs on for eggs The searching searching for Easter. PÂQlJES Easter. preparation
for for the the the preparation was the Friday was Good Friday and Good Thursday
and Thursday that pastries, and and omelettes omelettes Ihat eggs, paslries, hard-
boiled eggs, on hard-boiled onslaught on onslaught Lent. after Lent. eating after
to normal normal eating return to the retum markod the marked chocolate or
chocolate sugar-coated or advent of of sugar-coaled the advent before the A long
long time time before A were Children were roll eggs. eggs. Children and roll to
dye dye and custom 10 it was was Ihe the custom eggs, il eggs, rabbits, or rab
hares, or hens, hares, laid by by hens, were laid eggs were Easter eggs that Easter
told that told bits, region. the region. upon the depending upon depending fare
besides besides Easter fare traditional Easler other traditional was other there
was However, Ihere Rowever, beechnut (In the Bray region, region, beechnut the Bray
omelettes. (ln the indispensable indispensable omeletles. the kid or or roast kid
it was was mast these.) Often Ofteir it for making making these.) was set set aside
aside for oil was oi! parslied also parslied were also there were but there days,
but biblical days, as in in biblical leg of of mutton mutton as leg roast fattened
roast specially fattened Burgundy; specially pork brawn in Burgundy; brawn in ham
or or pork harn in Gascogne; Gascogne; saucisson in region; dried dried suucL5Son
pig in Metz region; in the the Metz sucking pig sucking Toulon. and Toulon. in
Lauraguais Lauraguais and omelette in and saucisson saucissonomelette and pies are
pies provinces there there are Charentes provinces other Charentes and other In
Ruffec Ruffec and In pastry is is Saturday aa pastry EasterSaturday On Easter meat.
On minced meal. filled with with minced I1Hed plate is is lined lined A large large
plate sugar. A and sugar. butter, and of flour, flour, eggs, eggs, butter, made of
made pigeon meat meat or pigeon mixture of of chicken chicken or minced mixture
this, then then aa minced with this, with with iscovered covered with placed upon
This is it.This upon il. isplaced eggs is hard-boiled eggs and hard-boiled and it
is pie is is is cooked, cooked, il pastry. Before the pie Before the layer of of
pastry. another layer another birds, with leaves, leaves, birds, house with the
house of the daughter of the dallghter decorated by by the decorated pastry' The
The leftover pastry. theleftover of the made of shapes made simpleshapes
othersimple andother and in andbaked baked in water and yolk of andwater ofegg
eggand glazdwith withyolk pieis isthen thenglazed pie theoyen. oven. the to those
thoseof of added10 isadded onion is inPoitou; Poitou; onion servedin too,are
areserved Pies,too, Pies, Touraine. Touraine.
371 371

In ln Louhans, Louhans, a a minced minced mixture mixture of of salt salt veal,

veal, chicken, chicken, and and pie. for the filling pork traditional is the pork
is the traditional filling for the pie. In Souterraine (Creuse), (Creuse), the the
Easter Easter pie pie is is made made of of meat meat ln Souterraine covered
covered with with halved halved hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggswhich whichgive
giveit il aa humped humped
appearance. appearance. The The galette galelle pacaude pacaude of of Vend6e Vendée
(also (also called called Easter Easler bread) bread) to is is made made with with
bread bread dough dough rekneaded rekneaded with with butter buller and and eggs
eggs to water orange-flower and Sugar dough. make make a a brioche brioche dough.
Sugar and orange-flower water are are added, added, and and the the paste paste is
is formed formed into into a a large large loaf loaf and and cooked cooked a
brioche. like oven in a slow in a slow oyen Iike a brioche.

pdtisserie: There There are are many many other other varieties varieties of of
Easter Easter pâtisserie: cavagflats cavagnats at at Menton; Menton; cacavelli
cacavelli ot or campanili campanili in in Corsica; C'orsica; juicy chunks of flaky
pastry pies pies filled filled with with juicy chunks oflamb lamb in in Aveyron,
Aveyron, flaky pastry
etc. etc.

butter) butter) belongs belongs traditionally traditionally to to Easter. Easter.

It lt is is called called crofrtes croûtes in in parts of Savoy. certain certain
pariS of Sa voy. Pdti Pâté en en crofrte croûte is is still still the the Easter
Easter Monday Monday dish dish in in Loches Loches pork omelette. and and Ligueil.
Ligueil. In ln Marseille, Marseille, it il is is pickled pickled pork omelette.
performed on is dance cheese Ascension Ascension - The The traditional traditional
checse dance is performed on cheese this this day day at at Vic-sous-Thil Vic-sous-
Thil on on the the C6ted'Or. Côte-d'Or. A A cream cream cheese lilac. is is placed
placed in in a a large large bowl bowJ and and crowned crowned with with a a bunch
bunch of of lilae. When When the the dancer dancer makes makes her her final final
curtsey, curtsey, the the inn-keeper inn-keeper steps steps forward forward and and
smears smears her her face face with with the Ihe cream cream cheese. cheese. ln In
the the Montb6liard Montbéliard region, region, fritters fritters and and spiced
spiced milk milk curds curds (saizai) (saizai) are are the the order order ofthe of
the daY. day. Curdled Curdled milk milk blended blended with with the the seeds
seeds of of cultivated cultivated dish in (caillebottes) used cardoons
(caillebottes) cardoons used to to be be the the Ascension Ascension Day Day dish
in with eaten with fresh crosswise and cut crosswise The whey Vend6e. whey was was
eut and eaten fresh Vendée. The sugar. milk milk and and sugar. pnNrncdrs - A
haricot bean soup called 'the Pentecost. Pcotecost. PENTECÔTE A haricot bean soup
called 'the village in the dish in the traditional Holy Ghosl' Ghost' is of the
soup of soup the Roly is the traditional dish the village in two is made It is
Alpes-Maritimes. lt in the Croix in La Croix of La of the Alpes-Maritimes. made in
two (33 gallons, containing l50litres each containing cauldrons, each enonnous
cauldrons, enormous J 50 litres (33 gallons, first !loor floor of of the first on
Ihe situated on kitchen situated in a a kitchen gallons) soup, soup, in 4lj
gallons) 41t the church. church. lhe on giteaux are are offered offerod on pork and
special gâteaux and special Roast pork I May May - Roast 1 'milk the 'milk drinks
the everyone drinks Tours, everyone In Tours, Burgundy. In in Burgundy. this day,
day, in Ihis strong'. 'sweet and and strong'. thern 'sweet make them to make May'
to of May' of In Saint-ForgeuxSaint-ForgeuxIsIDoRE- ln (10 May). sAINr ISIDORE
May). SAINT Isadore (10 Saint Isadorc Saint large are large 'Saint Isadores' which
are Isadores' which bakes 'Saint baker bakes the baker I'Espinasse, the
l'Espinasse, high. These These are (12 to inches) high. to 24 24 inches) cm. (12 to
60 60 cm. 30 to figures 30 brioihe figures brioche are later dislributed.
distributed. and later in the the church church and exhibited in exhibited
succulent Yonne, succulenl (16 May) the Yonne, in the At Viviers, Viviers, in May)
-- At Phsl (16 Saint Phal Saint that the reason th for this this reason It is is
for day. Il this day. on this pies are offered on are offered duck pies duck al the
nicknamed'ducklings'. are nicknamed inhabitants are inhabitants 'ducklings'. cheese
dalcetype of of cheesc Another type r€rr-orcU -- Anolher Christi. rnTE-DIEU Corpus
Christi. Corpus dance bowl of of set in in aa bowl cheese set white cheese A white
day. A place on this day. on this takes place takes best. girl young who dances the
young girl who dances best. to the is offered offered to cream is cream netis aa
netthere is in Anjou, Anjou, there At Ponts-de-Cé Ponts-de-C6 in 15 August August
-- At 15 this held on be to used A banquet fishing expedition. fishing expedition.
A banquet used to be held on Ihis stew laced offish kind of enjoyed aa kind
everyone enjoyed which everyone at which occasion at occasion fish stew laced wine.
Anjou wine. with Anjou with been a has always always been meal has harvest meal The
harvest MotssoNs -- The Harvest. MOISSONS Hacvest. a at Pentecost, example, for In
Argonne, event. important very very important event. ln Argonne, for exarnple, at
Pentecost, his to his banquet 10 pre-harvest banquet offer aa pre-harvest to offer
used to even maiter ev the master the en used in scytheg in the scythes, wielded
the who wielded men who The men harvesters. The future harvesters. future fields
ail all in the the fields out in them oui before them hard task task before had aa
hard particular, had particular, hot sun. sun. the hot day under under the day
meals the kind kind of of meals of tbe examples of few examples are aa few
following are The following The part of of theit their formod part of spcaking,
speaking formed manner of grvel. These, in aamanner These, in given. fivemeals
meals were five There were France.There Midi of of France. in the the Midi contract
in work contracl work day: aaday: that onbread bread that spread on redancbovy
anchovy spread crushed red At7 a.m.aacrushed l.At J. 7 a.m. pickled withaa pickled
along witb vinegar, along andvinegar, inoil oil and dipped in hadbeen beendipped
had garlic-rubbod bread. bread. piece of drygarlic-rubbed ofdry oraapiece onionor
onion piece of cheese. and aapiece eggand hard-boiled egg a.m.aahard-boiled At 10
l0a.m. 2.At 2. of cheese.

in in in a a mixture mixture of of beaten beaten eggs eggs and and milk, milk, then
then browned browned in

The The well-known well-known soupe soupe dorde dorée (slices (slices of of white
white bread bread dipped dipped
FESTIVE COOKERY FESTIVE COOKERY
3. At I p.m. lunch of soup followed by boiled vegetables 3. Al J p.m. lunch of soup
followed by boiled vegetables or an onion omelette. or an onion omelette. 4. At 4
p.m. an enonnous salad with a crotton of garlic-

4. At 4 p.m. an enormous salad with a croûton of garlicrubbed bread. rubbed bread.

5. For supper, pork or mutton followed by an onion 5. For supper, pork or mutton
followed by an onion omelette called the moissonneuse (harvester) and soupo
omelette called the moissonneuse (harvester) and soupo courto (a meat ragofrt mixed
with rice). courlo (a meat ragoul mixed with rice). In the Aude, lunch consisted of
white lamb stew, or an ln the Aude, lunch consisted of white lamb stew, or an
omelette, or sheep's tripe. omelette, or sheep's tripe. In Seine-et-Marne a stew
accompanied by cheese and ln Seine-ct-Marne a stew accompanied by cheese and salad
was carried out to the fields at I I a.m. In the evenins salad was carried out to
the fields at Il a.m. In the evening there was charigot (a mutton ragofrt served
with potatoes). there was charigot (a mullon ragoût served with potatoes). In
Doubs, at 4 p.m., there was the fiempette which was a ln Doubs, at 4 p.m., there
was the trempe/le which was a bowl of sweetenod wine in which one dipped /icftes
(strips) of bowl of sweetened wine in which one dipped liches (strips) of bread.
bread. Harvest festival. A u rnr DEs MorssoNs - There was Harvest festival. À LA
FIN DES MOISSONS - There was always a meal to mark the end of the harvest but it
was of the harvest but it was al ways a meal to mark the end served under a variety
of names - reboule, paulee, pass6e, served under a variety of names - reboule,
paulée, passée, berlot, poch6e, barbatto. Fritters and offal were served in berlot,
pochée, barbatto. Fritters and offaJ were served in Creuse and in Somme; sausages
in Alsace and in FrancheCreuse and in Somme; sausages in Alsace and in
FrancheComt6; cured knuckle of pork in the Massif Central; Central: Comté; cured
knuckle ofjugged pork in the Massif boiled beef in Normandy; rabbit in Marne,
Beauce. Beauce, boiled becf in Nonnandy; jugged rabbit in Marne, Perche and around
Nice; rabbit an sang in Cher; roast Perche and around Nice; rab bit au sang in
Cher; roast goose in Alsace,.Touraine and Seine-et-Marne; preserved goose in
Alsace, Touraine and Seine-ct-Marne; preserved goose (confit d'oie) in the regions
that specialise in it; roast goose (confit d'oie) in the regions that specialise in
it; roast cockerel more or less throughout Marne, Isdre, Angoumois cockerel more or
less throughout Marne, Isère, Angoumois and Sologne. There was a lot of pasta
served too: rivioli or and Sologne. There was a lot of pasta served too: ravioli or
meat pasties, lasagne, galettes (girdle cakes) and matafans, meat pasties, lasagne,
ga/elles (girdJe cakes) and matafans, wafres and darioles. wafHes and darioles. In
the Massif Central the dish of the day is patranque (a In the Massif Central the
dish of the day is patranque (a potato and cheese dish) and pountari (a stuffing
potato and cheese dish) and pounlari (a meatless meatless stuffing cooked in a
casserole). cooked in a casserole). In the Meuse, there are cream or jam puffs and
gouillates ln the Meuse, there are cream or jam puffs and gouil/ales (thin pastry
squares eaten with milk or vinaigreuej. (thin pastry squares eaten with milk or
vinaigrelle). October - In Burgundy, neighbours and friends meet to Oclober - In
Burgundy, neighboUfs and friends mect to crack nuts and to drink the new as the
evenings draw wine as the evenings draw crack nuIS and to drink the new wine in.
There is much singing and story-telling on such ociasions. in. There is much
singing and story-telling on such occasions. In some parts of Yonne, a light meal
used to follow the In sorne parts of Yonne, a light meal used to follow the wine
and nuts. Small, V€ry spicy, dumplings called miottes wine and nuts. Small, very
spicy, dumplings called mioltes were served along with girdle cakes and haricot
beans. were served along with girdle cakes and haricot beans. Grape harvest. LEs
vENDANGEs - It used to be the general Grape bancsl. LES VENDANGES - It used to be
the general custom to offer the grape-pickers a meal during the harvest. custom to
ofl'er the grape-pickers a meal during the harvest. In lhe upper Rhine valley this
consisted of a soup thickened ln the upper Rhine valley this consisted of a soup
thickened with flour or potatoes, and white cheese mixed with munster with !lour or
potatoes, and white cheese mixed with munster or herbstkas. In the region of Ay and
Epernay, the freshly or herbstkas. In the region of Ay and Epernay, the freshly
butchered pig's head was kept for this meal. In Touraine, butchered pig's he ad was
kept for this meal. In Touraine, jugged rabbit with prunes was jugged rabbi! with
prunes was the the speciality. speciality. In In Beaujolais, Beaujolais, there were
chamoures (marrow flans). there were chamoures (marrow flans). The pmlie, the meal
that marked the termination of the The pauMe, the meal that marked the termination
of the grape harvest, is still the signal for gargantuan feasts, where grape
harvest, is still the signal for gargantuan feasts, where the speciality of each
region has pride of place. the speciality of each region has pride of place. It
November In the centre of France, France, this th is evening evening was was
November - ln the centre of spent doing the pluche which consisted of peeling
chestnuts, spent doing the pluche which consisted of peeling chestnuts, then
boiling and eating them. In other places, they used to then boiling and eating
them. In other places, they used to make and eat the milletie, a kind of mash made
from millet make and eat the millelée, a kind of mash made from millet grain cookod
in milk. These traditions were usually usually linked Imked grain cooked in milk.
Tbese traditions were with some superstition or other. with some superstition or
other. Martinmas (11 November) - In some country districts, the Martlnmas (Il
November) _. In some country districts, the custom is to eat a roast turkey stuffed
with chestnuts, or a custom is LO cat a roast turkey stuffed wilh chestnuts, or a
fattened goose (it is the end of the fattening period for these fattened goose (il
is the end of the fattening period for these fowl). And the rue aux Oyers, aux (bv
fowl). And the rue aux Oyers, aux Oues, Oues, and and aux aux Ours Ours (by
deformation), used to be close to the abbey of Saint-Martindeformation), used to be
close to the abbey of Saint-Martindes Champs. The Dijon gastronomic fair usd to
begin on des Champs. The Dijon gastronomic fair used to begin on ll November. Il
November. North of the French border, in Flanders and in the North of the French
border, in Flanders and in the Rhineland, the cornes de Rhineland, the cornes de
Saint-Martin Sainl-Martin (crescent-shaped (crescent-shaped gnteaux) were offered
on this dav. gâteaux) were offered on th.is day. Chrisfuas Eve. LA vErLLfu or No'sL
- The hearty provengal Christmas Eve. LA VEILLÉE DE NO'EL - The hearty Provençal
372 372

supperbecomes becomesaameatless meatless meal mealon onChristmas Christmas Eve.

Eve.ftIt supper provence. variesfrom fromdistrict districtto todistrict districtin
inprovence. varies canbe becauliflower; cauliflower;cod (cod, fried inrailO codin
raito(cod, friedwith withwine ItItcan wine sauceand andcapers); capers);cardoons
cardoonsand andchards chardsin inwhite whitesauce; sauce; sauce grey mullet
snails;grey mulletwith with olives; olives;celery poivrade; or celery àdla Ia
poivrade; snails; or omelettes with withartichokes artichokes and fresh pasta.
pasta. andfresh omelettes But the the highlight highlight is is the thethirteen
thirteendesserts: desserts: nougal nougatdes des But capucins made madewith
withfigs, figs,with with nuts, nuts,and andwith with honey; honey;white white
capucins nougat; the thefougasse (girdle cake cake made made with with oil oiland
and orangeorangenougat; fougasse (girdle flower water); water); apples; apples;
pears; pears; prunes; prunes; almonds; almonds; hazelnuts; hazelnuis; flowcr
thecalissons calissonsof of Aix; Aix;the thebiscotins; biscotins;the casse-dents of
of Allanch, Allanch, the the casse-dents etc., washed washed down down with with
hot hot wine wine and and ratafi ratafi liqueur. liqueur. Thirteen Thirteen etc.,
desserts, therefore, therefore, but but not not necessarily necessarily the thesame
sameones oneseveryeverydesserts, where. And And why why thirteen? thirteen? Simply
Simply in in memory memory of of the the Last Lait where. Supper which which Christ
Christ shared shared with with his his twelve twelve disciples. disciples. Supper
Le réveillon r6veillon (midnight (midniglrt fesst) feast) -- Begins Begins on on
retum return from from Le (Rdveillon means Midnight Mass. M ass. (Réveillon means
literally literally 'a 'a new new awakening'). awakening'). Midnight The fasting
fasting of of Christmas Christmas Eve, Eve, the the length length of of the the
services services The (everyone used used to to attend attend laudes laudes and and
matins matins before before the the threc three (everyone masses) and (more often
and the the (more often than than not) not) long long distance distance to to
masses) cover coming coming and justification enough going, used and going, used to
to be be justification enough for for cover the réveillon. riveillon Also Also this
this was, was, materially materially speaking, speaking, the the most most the
important festival festival of of ail. all, the the one one that that lent lent ilS
great its name name to to ail all great important rejoicings. On On royal royal
occasions, occasions, when when large large distributions distributions of of
rejoicings. food were were made made to people, the to the the people, the latter
showed showed their delight delight food by crying crying'NoEl Noel !'. !'. by
'Noël!! Noël In Annagnac, Armagnac, a a stew stew is is servcd. served. In In
Alsace, Alsace, thcre there is is sauerkraui sauerkraut and and goose liver. ln In
Nivernais, Nivernais, a pig is a pig is slaughtered, slaughtered, and everyone
everyone tucks into ln puddings while the puddings while they they wait wait for
for the girdle cakes. the In Poitou, there there is game; partridges, capons, and
game; ln Poitou, is poultry poultry and game birds, small game pheasants, small
birds, herons, herons, leverets, leverets, hutch rabbits, pheasants, etc. etc. .big
In ln Provence, Provence, those those who who are are still still hungry hungry
after after the the 'big supper' find a turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, supper'
lind a turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, waiting for them on their them on their
return return from from church. In ln Touraine, Touraine, a a pig pig is is
slaughtered and there are quantities quantities of of black black and and white
white puddings puddings followed followcd by by rillons (potted (potted pork),
pork), cutlets, cutlets, and and finally finally the the fouace fouace (girdle
(girdle cake). cake). In gras and. foie In Roussillon, Roussillon, like like
everywhere else, oysters and foie gras take take the the place place of of honour
honour at at the the beginning beginning of of the the meal, meal, followed
followed by by the the local local ham ham and and a a roast roast turkey turkey
nestling nestling beside beside a a roast roast hare. hare. The The glowing glowiog
Muscat, Muscat, Banyuls Banyuls and and Rancio Rancio wines wines add add gaiety
gaiety to to the the feast. fcast. For For dessert, dessert, there there is is
pineapple pineapple bread, bread, then then the the tourrous (ourrous (the (the
nougat nougat of of the the region), region), ihe the rosquilles rosquilles of of
Am6lie-les-Bains, Amélie-les-Bains, and and the the grebilles grebilles (cisp
(crisp biscuits). biscuits). All Ail these these are are highly highly esteemed
esteemed varieties varieties of of locil local pdtisserie. pâtisserie. Roast Roast
goose goose is is eaten eaten in in the the south-west; south-west; turkey turkey
almost almost everywhere everywhere else. else. In ln the tbe United United States,
States, Britain, Britain, and and Canada, Canada, on on Christmas Christmas Day Day
there there is is roast roast beef, beef, or or a a goose, go ose, or or a a
turkey, turkey, with with plum pIum pudding puddingand andmince mincepies. pies. At
Atone onetime limethe theroyal royalChristmas Christmasdish dish was was roast
roast swan swan followed followed by by plum plum pudding. pudding. Boar's Boar's
head head is is served servedat atOxford. Oxford. In Austria,carp, carp,potato
potatochips, chips, and andpear pearflans flansare areserved served at at
lnAustria, the Thenthere thereis isroast ma stturkey turkeyor orgoose goosewith
withapples, apples, theriveillon réveil/on.Then accompanied accompanied by
byaagrilled grilled noodle noodledish dish containing containinghoney honeyand and
poppyseeds poppyseedsfor forthe themidday midday meal meal on on Christmas
Christmasday. day. In ln Denmark, Denmark, there there is is hot hot rice nce
sprinkled sprinkled with with cold cold milk, milk, wheate,n wheatenbeer beerbread,
bread, ham ham and and cod cod with with horseradish horseradish sauce. sauce. In
ln Spain, Spain, there there is is almond almond soup soup and and besugo besugo
(sea (sea bream bream baked bakedin in the theoven). oven). In Hungary, a a
substantial substantial supper supper consisting consisting of of roast roast ln
Hungary, sucking suckingpig pigand and poppyseed poppyseed cake cakeis is eaten
eaten before beforemidnight midnight mass. mass. In ln Switzerland, Switzerland,
the the Christmas Christmas patties patlies are are like like apple apple turnovers
turnoversexcept exceptthat thatthey theyare aremade madewith withpears. pears.
FIATOLE FIATOLE
Christmas Christmas cakes cakes an( anrJ biscuits. biscuits. Cakes Cakes and and
biscuits biscuits have have alwaysbeen been an an integral integral feature feature
ofevery feast feast day, day, to to such such an an always extent extent that that
they have have taken taken on on a a ritual character, their their shape shape

and and composition conforming conforming to to the the solemnity solemnity of of

the the
occasion. occasion.

There are are the the Flemish Flemish Etegaolles; quegnolles; the cochelins
cochelins of of the the There Beauce; the the nourolles nourol/es and agaignettes
of of Normandy; the the Beauce; noulets and and cornabeaux cornabeaux of Berrichon;
the calendnt of of noulets Provence - and and many others. others. Provence In
Champagne, Champagne, there is is the the bourde. bourde. This This ritual ritual
g0teau gâteau used In to be be in in the the shape shape of of a a human human
figure figure and and was was eaten at to Christmas time; time; now now it it is is
rectangular rectangular with with two two horns horns at Christmas either end. end.
Bakers Bakers still still make make biscuits biscuits that that are are vaguely
either At Christmas, Christmas, godparents used used to to give give human-shaped.
At bourdes to to their godchildren godchildren up up to the period of their first
bourdes Communion. These These were were placed placed in the the children's
children's shoes or Communion. under their their pillows pillows for them to eat
when they awoke. The under bourdes become become queugnots queugnols in Chdlons,
Châlons, cogneux in Lorraine, Lorraine, bourdes and One Christmas in in Moirement
is and burdins in Argonne. One described in in the following following few few
lines: !ines: described l baked for him Early in the morning I 1 made him a little
Iittle burdin I pitcher Which is as big as our pitcher l added a little lard I l
hadn't enough enough butter Because I form of of a a the form The gingerbread
gingerbread in in Champagne takes takes the The Father Christmas, or of themselves
with all stuff stuffthemselves ass. And ail Father of his ass. waffies. wafres.
cockerel and the the cockerel In Brittany, the black and white puddings and (girdle
Bnt the the fouaces meal. But the meal. main part of the make up the main fouaces
(girdle cakes in in the or that morning) or made that a star, star, freshly made
the shape of a the most tra.d!l:Iolrlal traditional the most still the a cross,
cross, are are still the nolets nolets topped with a that of the delicacies. Best-
known of the cake cake that the far, is the of aU all is far, the someone once said
had nation. of a a nation. robustness of had the the robustness At one's among
one's to distribute distribute among custom to the custom it was was the At one
time time it friends small loaf caUed calld pain A huge huge 10af gdteaux called
nieulles. A called nieul/es. small gâteaux de and divided before and the night
night before kneaded the was kneaded de calandre calandre was and piece had cut off
off and had been been cut a small small piece after a the family, family, after
amongst the remedy kept as as a a remedy was kept This was four crosses. crosses.
This or four marked with with three three or for for ail all ills. In and aa Eve
and on Christmas Christmas Eve loaf is is made made on In Creuse, Creuse, this this
10af carefully This with it. it. This oven with put into gflteau is into the the
oven is put carefully prepared gâteau to properties and is put aside aside to and
is special properties gdteau is have special is said to to have is that that The
belief is man or or beast. beast. The of man illness of in case case of of illness
be used used in person ail piece to ailing person to the the ailing small piece
take a a small is to to take has to to do do is all one one has in immediately. him
immediateJy. to cure cure him in order order to In god-daughters aa godfathers give
their their god-daughters the godfathers In Roussillon, Roussillon, the plrleapp.le
it that that Joseph Joseph has it tortell. Legend has pineapple Joaf a tortell.
loaf called called a gave to the the hastened to whohastened shepherds who the
Catalan Catalan ch"nh''''T',-Ic gave this Joaf loaf to to the stable time. at
Christmas Christmas time. stable at FEUILLANTINE flaky pastry with ftaky made with
Puff-pastries made IBUILLANTINE - Puff-pastries dough times. These itself66times.
into 33upon upon itself folded into rolled out out and and folded dough rolled
pastries cm. (2 inches) strips 55cm. in strips pastries are of the the dough dough
in are cut cut out out of long shed withwhite white of brushed wide.They Theyare
are bru inch) wide. long and and 2 2 cm. cm. @inch) egg, in aa baked in granulated
sugar and baked sugar and sprinkled with with granulated eEE, sprinkled moderate
moderate oven. oven. Feuillantines also, and also, teaand afternoon tea served with
withafternoon are served Feuillantinesare instead with ice icecream. cream. instead
of of wafers, wafers,wlth

l0 10 thin thin slices slices from from the the noix noix ot or sous'noix sous-noix
(U.S. (U.S. loin) loin) of of veal. veal. Flatten Flatten these these with with a a
beater beater to to make make them them rectangular rectangular in in shape. Season
Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and a a pinch of of spices.
spices. the than larger pork rather fat Cut a a very very thin thin slice slice of
of pork fat larger than the slices slices of of veal. veal. Spread Spread a a slice
slice of of veal veal with with fine fine pork stuffing stuffing of d to which has
has been been added added a a third third of of its its weight of à gratin gratin
to which of FORCEMEAT) and and a a third third of its its weight weight of
forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT)

the Lay the egg. Lay dry duxelles (q.v.), (q.v.), which which has has been been
bound bound with with egg. with each with other, spreading each slices of of veal
veal one one on on top of of the the other, with a a of stuffing. Cover with
stuffing stuffing and and ending with a a layer layer of slice of of lower slice of
the lower edges of thin thin slice slice of of pork pork fat. Fold Fold the the
edges F,old the feuilleton. of the sides of pork failleton. Fold pork fat fat so so
that that they they cover cover the the sides slice' lower slice. the 10wer of the
those of over those slice over upper slice ihe the edges edges of of the the upper
a buttered buttered it in in a Put it shape. Put into shape. Tie Tie the feuilleton
neatly neatly into and onions and sliced onions and sliced rinds and bacon rinds
stewpan stewpan lined with with bacon and simmer for 20 garni. Cover, Cover, and
bouquet garni. Add a a bouquet carrots. carrots. Add (scant t 2t dl. dl. (scant
with 2! Moisten with minutes. I pint, generous cup) minutes. Moisten (scant I pint,
generous dl. (scant Add 2+ dl. down. Add Boil down. wine. Boil white wine. white to
a a COllcentl'at<xj concentrated jelly. down to Boil down stock. Boil veal stock.
cup) brown veal cup) good stock. stock. Cover, (scant pnt,Zf, cups) gooo 5 dl. dl.
(scant with 5 Moisten with Moisten 2i cups) frequently. basting frequently. hours,
basting for lf hours, oven for in the the oven and cook in and dish. put it serving
dish. a serving it on on a and put Untie and the feuilleton. Drain the Drain
feuilleton. Untie stock. the braising stock. of the fat of of the the fat few
tablespoons of a few Pour on on a Pour with a a oven, basting frequently. Surround
with in the the oven, Glaze in Glaze garnish with with or gamish (see GARNISHES) or
garnish (see Bourgeoise garnish

2t

(z.

etc. cucumbers, etc. lettuce, cucumbers, chicory, lettuce, celery, chicory, braised
celery, if and, if Strain and, stock. Strain the braising stock. from the fat from
the fat Remove the Remove stock this stock of this a few few tablespoons of Pour a
down. Pour boil down. necessary, boil separately. rest Cf"r,<>r"tf"hJ the rest
serve the and serve meat and over the meat over is perfectly rectangular in the
feuilleton that the To ensure ensure that To feuilleton is pieces of white
rectangular pieces thin rectangular with thin in with boxed in can be be boxed it
can shape it shape position in position kept in and kept sides, and and sides,
bottom, and the top, top, bottom, laid on on the wood laid wood with string. with
different mixtures, with different made with be made also be can also This dish can
This Madeira instead in Madeira be braised braised in It can can be salpicons. It
atfr salpicons. stuffings; and stuffings, white wine. wine. of white of FRoID
jelly. FEUILLETON vEAU FROID DE VEAU rnurrnroN DE in jeUy. veal in coH vea1 of cold
Feuilletm of Feuilleton Feuilleton for Feuilleton asfor thefeuilleton as cook
thefeuilleton and cook Prepare and cnrin- Prepare A LA GELÉEÀ it on on and put it
Trim and weight. Trim under aaweight. Cool under veal à d l'ancienne. l'ancienne.
Cool of veal of jelly in it enough half-set over it Pour over bowl. Pour in aa
bowl. of weil-set well-set jelly b"d of aa bed jelly having the with the jelly (the
jelly bee,n enriched with having been it (the to cover cover it jelly to -braising
juice). Chili Chill meat juice). unthickened meat with unthickened diluted with
stock diluted braising stock ice. on ice. on onVEAU vsA,uÀA rnutll,EToN DE
p6rigurrdine. FEUILLETON la périgourdine. vealà I la of veaI Feuilleton of
Feuilleton for pfntcounDlNE - Prep<lfe indicatedfor asindicated the feuilleton
Prepare the la PÉRIGOURDINE LA feuilleton as meat ofmeat the slices slicesof
spreadingthe I'ancienne,spreading veal àdl'ancienne, of veal Feuilleton of
Feuilleton grasand one-third andone-third two-thirds foiegras of two-thirds made of
stuffing made with with aa stuffing Madeira. inMadeira. Braisein truffies added.
Braise dicedtruffies withdiced fine stuffing with fine grassautéed in sauteed in
slicesoffoie of foiegras andslices strips oftruffie of truffieand Gamish Garnish
withstrips butter. butter. porkor large orlarge ofpork method,feuilletons same
method, thesame Using Using the feuilletons of can.b9 Poultryfeuilletons
cold'Poultry hotor orcold. servedhot beserved poultry can canbe be feuilletons can
garnish andgarnish sauceand withaasauce servedwith andserved stockand inwhite
whitestock braised in poultryentrées. entrdes. forpoultry suitablefor especially
especially suitable

FEUILLE SCCCHEESE. CHEESE. DREUX - _See DE DREUX FEUILLE DE FEUILLETON slicesof

ofveal veal thinslices made from fromthin Preparation made FEUILLETON --
Preparation or laid andlaid of stuffing, and with layersof pork, beaten flat,
spread with or pork, beaten fiat, one the up,the been builtup, the other. When
Whenitit hasbeen on top top of of the oneon feuilleton porkcaul, porkfat fator
orpork caul, thinslices slicesof ofpork inthin is wrapped in feuilleton is and way.
in theusual usualway. and braised braisedin Feuilletoo onVEAU vsAuÀA ITEuILLEToNDE
I'ancienne. FEUILLETON vealà l'ancienne. ofvea1 Feuilletmof L'ANCIENNE cut lb.),cut
kg. @llb.), weighing 22kg. Foraafeuilleton L'ANcrEr.nrE - For feuilleton weighing

tothe the English roughly equivalent equivalentto Caskroughly FEUILLETTE - Cask

FEUILLETTE I 14litres litres (25 ofbetween between114 quarter-cask,with capacityof
withaacapacity quarter-cask, (31 gallons,39 39 gallons)' gallons, 31 gallons) and
140litres litres(31 and140 31gallons) gallons, gallons, litres (29 holdsbetween
between 133litres Theordinary ordinaryfeuillette The gallons, feuilletteholds (29|
gallons, gallons),and gallons,37 and the 37 gallons)and 135litres litres(291and135
36|gallons) gallons), the (31gallons, gallons,39 39 gallons). litres(31 140 holdsup
upto to140 largefeuillette large litres feuillelte -Burgundyholds ll2littes (241
holdsbetween betwee,n112 onlyholds TieBurgundy feuillette The feuilletteonly
(25gallons, gallons,31 31 gallons)' gallons,30! gallons)and litres(25 and114 I 14
gallons, litres 30tgallons)

base widebase (fiascoin Italian)with witha a inItalian) flask FlASQUE (fiasco wide
Wineftask FIASQUE- -Wine in straw. wrappedin and straw. usuallywrapped andlong
longneck. neck.ItItisisusually
I

fish. Mediterraneanfish. FIATOLE Mediterranean IlItisis striking in Flatbroad broad

FIATOLE- -Flat its leaden on and spots golden-yellowbars bars appearance and spots
on its withgolden-yellow appearancewith
373 373
FIELAS FIÉLAS
grey skin. It is fairly delicate to eat. All recipes for turbot grey skin. It is
fairly delicate to eat. Ail recipes for turbot (q.v.) are suitable for this dish.
(q.v.) are suitable for this dish. F.IEllS - Name given in provence to the conger
eel (q.v.), FIÉLAS - Name given in Provence to the conger eel (q.v.), which is one
of the ingredients of bouillabatrre. It can be bouillabaisse. It can be which is
one of the ingredients of stewed, cooked m matelote, etc. in the same way as eel.
stewed, cooked en matelote, etc. in the sa me way as eel. Driedfigs. figs.FIGUES
FrcuEsSÈCHES sicnns- -In Inthe the south of France, figs Dried south of France.
figs are are preservedby bydrying dryingin inthe thesun. sun.Very Veryripe
ripeautumn autumnfruit preserved fruitisis used. Thefigs, figs, spreadout outon
onhurdles, hurdles,are areexposed exposed tothe used . The spread to the sun.They
Theyhave haveto tobe beturned turnedover overseveral several times duringthe during
sun. times the and,before beforethey theyare are completely dried, dried,are
areslightly drying completely slightly {ryingand, flattened.Treated Treatedin
inthis thisway, way,figs figs willkeep keep verylong tongtime. iime. will a avery
fiattened. Driedfigs figsare areeaten eatenas asthey theyare. are.They Theycan can
alsobe Dried also stewed, be stewed, likeail allother otherdried driodfruits,
fruits,and andare areused usedin invarious varioussweets like sweets pastries.
andpastries. and peeland Figfritters. fritters.BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE DEFIGUES
Frcurs- - Peel quarterthe andquarter Fig the figs.Steep Steepthem themfor for30
30minutes minutesin inbrandy brandyor orsorne someother figs. other andsugar.
sugar.Dip Dipthem them in inlight lightbatter barterand anddeep-fry. liqueur, deep-
fry. llOueg1 and (SeeFRITTERS.) FRITTERS.) (See Leg of plg with ofwild wild pig
withfigs. figs.CUISSOT curssor DE DEMARCASSIN MARcAssrNAUX Leg AUx FIGUES- - Draw
Draw the thesinews sinews from from the themeat, meat,wipe FIGUES wipeit, it,thread
thread itit withJardoons, lardoons, and place ititin andplace inaacooked cooked
marinade marinadefor with for10 l0days. days. Wipe the the meat meat and and roast
roast with withherbs herbsuntil untilcooked cookedbut Wipe butslightly slighily
rare. rare. Make aacaramel. caramel. Add Add half half marinade, marinade, ha half
vinegar to Make If vinegar tothe the residue in in the the roasting roasting pan.
pan. Boil Boil this this down poachsorne down and residue and poach some fresh figs
figs in in il. it. Drain Drain these theseand andarrange arrange around around the
fresh the roast roast leg leg pork. Continue of pork. Continue to to reduce reduce
the the liquid, liquid, add of add kneaded kneadod butter, butter. and serve serve
this this sauce sauce separately. separately. and F[ marmalade marmalade -- See See
MARMALADES. MARMALADES. Fig poRc AUX Pork stew stew with green figs. with green
figs. DAUBE olunr DE DE PORC Pork AUx FIGUES FrcrJEs vERrEs -- Brown Brown a a
fiUet fillet of of lean lean pork pork in in lard VERTES lard with with chopped
chopped onions. Add Add 1 glass water, I glass water, and and a a bouquet bouquet
of parsley, thyme, onions. of parsley, thyme, and bay bay Jeaf. leaf. Season Season
with with salt salt and pepper, Simmer and pepper. and Simmer for for 1 I hour.
hour. Poach small green figs small green figs in in water. water. Crush pimento in
Poach Crush a a pimento in the the juice of of 1 I lemon. lemon. Add Add this this
to to the pork. Simmer the pork. juice Simmer for for 1 I or or 2 2 minutes and and
then then serve pork surrounded serve the the pork surrounded by minutes by the the
fig.'). figp. Stewed figs. figs. COMPOTE courorE DE DE FIGUES FrcuEs -- See Stewed
See COMPOTE. COMPOTE.-f'rg tart. ttrt. TARTE rARrE AUX AUx FIGUES FrcrJEs -- See
See TART. TART. Fig Fig wine wine or or figuette. figuette. VIN vrN DE DE FIGUE,
FrcuE, FIGUETIE Fig FTcuETTE Medicinal - Medicinal drink made made from from dried
figs. drink

FIELDFARE. LrroRNE Large type of thrush with greyish FIELDFARE. LITORNE - - Large
type of thrush with greyish head-feathers. It is less delicate than the true
thruih. All head-feathers. It is Jess delicate than the true thrush. Ali recipes
for thrush (q.v.) are suitable for fieldfare. recipes for thrush (q.v.) are
suitable for fieldfare. FIELD-POPPY OIL. HUILE HUrLED'OEILLETTE D'oerLLErrE - -
EdibJe Edibleoil oil FIELD-POPPY OIL. obtained by pressing the seeds of the white
poppy. obtained by pressing the seeds of the white poppy. This oil is also known in
France as white oil and olivette. oil is also known in France as white oil and
olivette. ItThis has the same culinary uses as olive oil. It has the same culinary
uses as olive oil.

FIG. rrcue Fruit of the fig tree. FIG. FIGUE - - Fruit of the fig tree. a{e_thry
types of fig, the white fig, the purple fig, Jhgre are There three types of fig,
the white fig, the purp/e fig, and the redfig. These three types are subdivideO
into a larg.e and the red fig. These three types are subdivided into a large number
of varieties. number of varieties. French figs are grown in the Midi, mostly in
Var. The , French figs are grown in the Midi, mostly in Var. The best-known
varieties are buissone, belloni, bourjasotte, best-known varieties are buissone,
be/lone, bourjasolle, cClestine col de dame, dauphine violette. These figs are
cé/estine col de dame, dauphine violette. These figs are exported fresh between
June and November. exported fresh between June and November. The fig is also grown
throughout the whole of the MediterThe fig is also grown throughout the whole of
the Mediterranean basin. Algeria is the principal supplier of dried figs. ranean
basin. Algeria is the principal supplier of dried figs .

tree fruits tree with with fruits

Branch offig Branch of fig

FILBERT. name for FIL BERT. AvELTNE AVELINE for the the hazelnuL hazelnut. The -
Another name filbert tree, tree, which which produces these these nuts, filbert
nuts, is is a a variety variety of the common haze! hazel tree. tree. They They are
are called common this because they called this they are ripe about Saint
Philbert's day - 22 August. Recipes for for filbert nuts will be found under
HAZELNUT. HAZELNUT. FILLET. FILLET. FrLE'rF1LET- Undercrrt Undercut of sir/oin of
ofbeef. of the sirloin beef. A cut taken from the fleshy part part of the buttocks
of other animals. animais. For methods methods of of preparation preparation see
see BEEF, BEEF, MUTTON, MUTTON, VEAL,
Besides being the sweetest of all fruits, the fig contains Besides being the
sweetest of ail fruits, the fig con tains appreciable of Vitamins Vitamins A, A, B,
B, and and C. C. It It has has appreciable quantities quantities of laxative lax.a
tive and and digestive digestive properties properties (although (although if if
eaten eaten when when under-ripe is a a risk risk of of its its causing causing an
an irritation irritation of of the the under-ripe there there is mouth mouth and
and lips). lips). Figs Figs are are more more nourishing nourishing when when dried
dried and, and, like prunes, are improved by soaking for twenty-four hours like
prunes, are improved by soaking for twenty-four hours before before use. use. Fresh
Fresh figs figs are are usually usually eaten eaten raw raw in in their their
natural natural state. state. They They can can be be served served as as hors-
d'euvre hors-d'œuvre with with raw raw ham ham in in the the same way as melon.
same way as melon. Figs can also be cooked in various ways. ways. All Ali recipes
recipes for for Figs can also be cooked in various (q.v.) apricots figs. apricots
(q.v.)are are suitable suitablefor for figs. A A fermented fennented drink drink is
is made made from from figs, figs, and and also also a a spirit spirit which
whichis ishighly highly przed prizedby bythe theArabs. Arabs. In central Europe
roast figs areused used to to flavour fiavour coffee. coffee, as as In central
Europe roast figs are chicory isin inFrance. France. chicoryis pound sorne Corsican
Corsican anchoyade. anchoyade. ANcHoIADE ANCHOIADE coRsn CORSE - Pound some p".ld
garlic, figswith withaapinch pinchof of garlic,and anddesalted desaltedanchovy
anchovy peeledfresh freshfigs fillets. resulting bread fillets.Spread Spreadthe the
resultingpaste pasteon onslices slicesof of breadmoistened moistened with witholive
oliveoil. oil.Cover Coyerwith withchopped choppedonions. onions. 374 374

PORK. PORK. Filet Filet mignmmignon - Small Smali cut cut of of meat meat taken
taken from the the end of of the the beef grilled or or saut6ed. sautéed. (See (See
BEEF.) BEEF.) beef fillet. filleL Filets Fi/ets mignons mignons are grilld This
This term term is is also also applied applied to to fillet fillet of lamb lamb
(q.v.), mutton mutton (q.v.), (q.v.), veal veal (q.v.), (q.v.), and and pork pork
(q.v.). (q.v.). Fillets of fish. fisb. FrLErs FILETS DE DE porssoN POISSON - Fish
Fish cut cut lengthwise lengthwise off off Fillets of the of sole, sole, whiting,
whiting, the central central bone bone before before cooking, cooking, e.g. e.g.
fillets fillets of etc. etc. Filleb of poultry poultry and and wingd winged game.
game. FTLETS FILETS DE DE voLArLLEs VOLAILLES FïUets of ET ETDE DE GrBrERs GIBIERS
DE DE pLUrf{E PLUME- In In France France afilet afi/et as as applied applied to to
game game or or poultry poultry is, is, in in the the strict strict sense: sense:
l. 1. The The under under part part of of the the breast breast of of poultry
poultry and and winged winged game. game. 2. 2. The The breasts breasts themselves
themselves of of poultry poultry or or game, game, cut cut off off before
beforecooking cooking and and prepared prepared in in various various ways. ways.
They They can can be be used orwhen whenthey theyare aretoo too fat, fat, as as in
in the thecase caseof ofturkeys, turkeys, used whole wholeor cut cut into into thin
thin slices. slices. The Thebreasts breastsof ofpoultry poultryand and game gameare
aremore more often often known known in in cookery cookeryas assupr€mes. suprêmes.

FILLETTE FILLETTE-- Name Namefor foraasmall smallwine winebottle bottleused used

mainlv mainly for for is about about $tlitre litre (generous (generous }t pint,
pint, Anjou wines. wines. Its Its capacity capacity is {njou

l|Itcups). cups).
FISH FISH
FINANCIÈRE (A (À LA) LA) - Method Method of preparing preparing meat meat and
FINANCDRE poultry. poultry. Financiire Financière garnish garnish (which is also
also used used to to fill fill pies and vol-au-vent) vol-au-vent) consists consists
of of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and cocks' and kidneys, quenelles, quenelles,
lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, mushrooms, olives olives kidneys, and
strips strips of of truffies. truffies. and FIN DE DE SIECLE SIÈCLE - See CHEESE.
CHEESE. FIN The appellation FINE - Liqueur Liqueur brandy brandy (spirit of wine).
wine). The FINE
comes. must be be followed followed by by the the name name of of the the region
whence it cornes. must (See (See COGNAC, COGNAC, Fine Fine Champagne.) Champagne.)

to mean sometimes used FINES HERBES - This term terrn is is sometimes used to FINES
rather than a mixture of herbs and and thus an chopped parsley rather parsley in
chopped parsley aux fines fines herbes contains only cbopped omelette aux addition
to the the usual seasoning. addition herbs, such Actually, fines fines herbes
should be a a mixture of herbs, Actually,
as parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, and and chives. as FINTE - Fish
somewhat similar to the shad. Like the shad, FINTE It month later. It it returns to
the rivers to spawn, but about a month differs from the shad in shape, being rather
more elongated, elongated, di-ffers and unlike the shad it has very sharp teeth in
both jaws. The finte the sbad shad (q.v.). as the finte is prepared in the same way
as FIRECREST or FIRE-CRESTED WREN. WREN. ROITELET RoITELET -or FIRE-CRESTED
FIRECREST

impossible to to fire, it it was was impossible great heat of the heat of that, in
view of the great the fire, during stirred during to be had to which had certain
disbes dishes which use use it it for for certain be stirred pots. prepared in in
small small cooking cooking pots. which were prepared cooking cooking or or which
propped on on firefirewere propped live charcoal charcoal were 'stoves filled
'Stoves filled with with live for height for at a a convenient convenient height
hearth and and at the hearth dogs away from from the dogs The kitchen kitchen
easier. The much easier. very much working. They made cooking very and kept kept
little stoves stoves and off these these little food off ate their their food staff
even even ate staff time. same time. warm at the same themselves warm though tbey
they were were in design, design, though simple in 'Kitchen firedogs firedogs were
simple 'Kitchen apartments living apartments for living designed for care. Those
designed forged with great care. Few scroll work. work' Few with scroll richly
ornamented with were often often very very ricbly were much have much century have
the fifteenth fifteenth century made before firedogs made before the firedogs
merit.' artistic meri t.'
polssoNs -- Most world and the the fish fish world edible and Most fish fish are
are edible FISH. POISSONS FISH. nourishing The most most nourishing of food. food.
The source of an enormous source presents anenormous salmon salmon, salmon then
come salmon, lampreys, th river eels eels and and lampreys, fish are are river fish
en come eel. conger eel. and tbe the conger herring, and fresh herring, mackerel,
turbot, turbot, fresh trout, trou t, mackerel, means are by by no no means they are
although they Among the least nourishing, although lemon sole. sole. and lemon
sole, and are bream, bream, sole, to be be despised, despised, are to protein as It
proportion of as meat. meat. It of protein same Fish contains the sa contains the
Fish me proportion and contains contains value and food value the same same food
has approximately approximately the has rich in in D. It It is is rich B and D.
Vitamins Band of Vitamins amounts of significant amounts significant and contains
contains in calcium, calcium, and deficient in and iodine, iodine, deficient
phosphorous and than meat. meat. less iron iron tban less per 75 per much the the
same same -- 75 is much fish is all fish content of of aIl The water water content
The from species species to to little from vary little also vary The albuminoids
albuminoids also cent. The cent. per cent. are fats are The fats 18 per cent. The
about 18 species -- they they constitute constitute about species rich in in
quantities. There fish very very rich There are are fish variable quantities. found
in in more more variable found (26 per rich in in fats fats per cent); fish fairly
fairly rich cent); fish such as aseel eel (26 fat fat content, content, such (8'42
per per cent), (12'5 per per cent), cent), shad (8-42 cent), shad such lamprey
(12,5 such as as lamprey (7'91 per per cent), and (8'31 per cent), and per cent),
sturgeon (7'91 cent), sturgeon mackerel mackerel (8,31 pike, ray ray and and as
pike, (6 per fish sucb such as per cent); lean fish and lean herring herring (6
cent); and bream. bream.

(q.v.). prepared like like lark lark (q.v.). which is prepared Small singing bird
which

LANDIER FIREDOG. LANDIER - Large kitchen andiron. In de du mobilier mobilier

français, raisonnd du his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire raisonné In his frangais, de
l'époque Le Duc Duc Viollet Le d la la Renaissance, Renaissance, Viollet l'dpoque
carolingienne carolingienne à defines in the their uses uses in describes their and
describes firedogs and antique firedogs defines antique kitchens of our ancestors:
ancestors: 'Stoves much less less compartments were much 'stoves divided divided
into several compartments frequently food The food are today. today. The they are
than they in kitchens than frequently used used in was understood be readily
understood It will will be fire. It the open fire. was cooked cooked over the
i:tt:
,

::ii

llll tlilj :rl!i'

Fish (Nicolas) (Nicolas) Fish

375 375
FISH KETTLE KETTLE FISH
Recipesfor for different differentfish fishare arelisted listedin intheir their
alphabetical alphabetical Recipes order. order. porssoN- Ingredients. Fish mousse.
monsse.MOUSSE Moussn DE DE POISSON Fish kg - Ingredients.1I kg (net weight), fish
(net weight),44to to55egg (2fpints, whites, li 1|litres litres(2i pints, eggwhites,
(2i lb.) fish Q+lb.) thickcream, 5f,cups) cups) fresh fresh thick cream,It 1|
teaspoons teaspoonssalt, salt, f teaspoon teaspoon pepper, pinch pinch of white
pepper, ofspices. spices. white Method. Season Season the the fish fish with
pepper,and with salt, salt, pepper, and spi spices, Method. ces, and and pound in
inaamortar mortaras possible. While asfinely finely as pounding, add aspossible.
While pounding, pound add theegg eggwhites whites aalittle little at ataatime.
time. Rub Rub the themixture mixturethrougb throughaa the finesieve. sieve. fine
pan and Put it it in in aapan (or in and leave leave to tostand stand on ice(or
place) Put onice inaacool cool place) for 2 2 hours. hours. Add Add the thecream,
cream,aa little little at ataa time, time, stirring stirringwith for with aa wooden
spoon. spoon. wooden Fill aa mould mould three-quarters three-quarters full full
with Fill with the the mixture. mixture. Stand Stand poach in in water water and
and poach in aa moderate moderate oyen. in oven. When When cooked, cooked, leave to
to stand stand for for aa few few seconds seconds before leave before turning
turning out. out. Appropriate garnishes garnishesare: cancalalse; various ate:
cancalaise; Appropriate various species species of of mushrooms sautéed saut6od in
in butter; butter; shrimps; mushrooms shrimps; dieppoise; dieppoise;
freshfreshwater crayfish; crayfish; Joinville; Joinville; Nantua; Nantua;
marinière: water marinidre: mussels; mussels; green peas normande; green peas in in
butter; normande; butter; asparagus asparagus tips tips in in butter; butter;
prince s s e ; trouvillaise; tr ouv il lais e ; Victoria. Victoria. princesse;
garnishes are Recipes for for ail the garnishes given under all the Recipes are
given under GARGARNISHES. Fish Fish mousses mousses are are covered NISHES. covered
with with one one or or other other of of the the (q.v.) to following sauces sauces
(q.v.) following to blend blend with garnish selected: the garnish with the
selected: antrore, cardinal, cardinal, cream, cream, shrimp, shrimp, curry,
parsley, aurore, curry, diplomate, diplomate, parsley, lobster, Joinville,
Joinville, marinière, mariniire, Nantua, Nantua, normande, lobster, normande,
ravigote, ravigote, riche, vénitienne, vdnitienne, Victoria, Y ictoria, white white
wine. riche, wine. Fish roes roes on m toast. toast CROÛTES cRoOrES AUX Atx
LAITANCES Fish LArrANcns -- Poach Poach roes roes juice, and in a a little little
butter butter and and lemon lemon juice, place on in and place on rectangles
rectangles of of bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with
with breadcrumbs bread breadcrumbs which which have have juice over been fried
fried in in butter. butter. Squeeze Squeeze lemon lemon juice been put in over and
and put in a a hot oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. hot
chopped parsley.

st

Fish for for bouillabaisse bouillabaisse (French (French Government

GovernmentTourisl Tourist Office) Ofice) Fish

The flesh flesh of of fish, fish, therefore, therefore, does greatly in does not
not differ differ greatly in The content from from the the flesh flesh of of land
land animaIs: animals: it perhaps it may may perhaps content contain slightly
slightly less less nitrogenous nitrogenous substances, substances, but but the the
fat fat contain proportion of content and and the the proportion mineral is of
mineral is substantially substantially the the content particular that samg in in
particular phosphorated compounds. that of of phosphorated compounds. Owing Owing
same, (particularly lean to the the fact fact that that fish fish (particularly
lean fish) fish) is is easily easily digestible, digestible, to it is is an an
excellent excellent food food for for children children and and expectant expectant
mothers mothers it but it it must must be be fresh, fresh, not not oily, oily, and
grilled, in and served served grilled, soup, or in soup, or but baked. baked.
practical point From the point of the practical view, it of view, it is is
interesting interesting to to note From quantity of the quantity of waste waste of
of a a whole whole fish. fish. Thus Thus carp, carp, fresh fresh cod, cod, the and
sole sole carry per cent carry 50 50 per cent waste, waste, bass per cent, perch
bass 47 47 per perch and and and trout 44 44 per cent, small (such as small frying
frying fish fish (such gudgeon and as gudgeon trout per cent, per cent smelts) from
from 40 40 per per cent, and the fresh sardine cent to to 30 30 per sardine smelts)
per cent. only 20 20 per cent. only Fish is is subject subject to to speedy speedy
decay decay by by bacterial bacterial action action and Fish often causes causes
food it is absolutely fresh. often food poisoning poisoning if if it is not not
absolutely At the freshness freshness of of fish can be recognised by At the the
market, market, the fish can the flesh; a c1ean clean fresh smell, without without
any the firmness firmness of of the the flesh;a fresh smell, suggestion of sweetish
or suggestion of anything anything musty, must y, unpleasant, unpleasant, sweetish
pungent; stand out out and pungent; bright bright eyes, eyes, which which should
should stand and not not be embedded and bright rod embedded in in the the orbits;
orbits; bright bright scales and red gills. trIat FJat fish. fish. porssoNs
POISSONS pLATS PLATS - There are are two two kinds kinds of of flat fish: fish
flattened flattened vertically vertical/y (such (such as as ray or or skate) the
upper, fish: fuh exposed andfish exposed side side being being dark dark and and
the underside white; white; and fish flattened flattened laterally, lateral/y,
which which are are the real flat flat fish, the white and dark dark sides sides
representing representing the the flanks, flanks, the back back and and the belly
belly being being represented represented by by the the flattened flattened sides;
the two two eyes eyes are both both on on the the same same side (the (the coloured
coloured side). Depending Depending on the the position position of of the the
eyes, eyes, flat flat fish fish are are classifid classified into into dextral
species, species, if if the the eyes eyes lie lie on on the the right right side of
of the the head, and and sinistral sinistral species, species, if if they they are
on on the the left. left. The The anus is is always always visible visible on on
the the underside. underside. Plaice, Plaice, flounder, flounder, sole, and lemon
lemon sole sole are are right-sided; right-sided; while while sardine, sardine,
turbot, turbot, and and brill brill are are left-sided. left-sided. Poisonous The
flesh flesh of of certain certain varieties varieties of of fish, fish, Poisonous
fish fish - The generally generally those those inhabiting inhabiting tropical
tropical seas, seas, is is permanently permanently poisonous; poisonous; other
other species, species, such such as as grey grey gurnard, gurnard, carpcarpbream,
bream, garfish, garfish, etc., etc., become become poisonous poisonous at at
certain certain times. times. Venomous These fish, fish, the the flesh flesh of of
which which is is often often Venomous fish fish - These excellent, excellent, must
must not not be be confused confused with with fish fish mentioned mentioned in in
the the preceding preceding paragraph. paragraph. Venomous Venomous fish fish have
have dorsal dorsal f;ns f.ns armed armed with with spines spines which which are
are grooved grooved and and provided provided with with poison poison glands.
glands. These These can can cause cause very very painful painful and and even even
dangerous dangerous wounds wounds if if they they are are handled handled without
without due due preprecaution caution as, as, for for instance, instance, in in the
the case case of of the the weever weever or or stingstingfish. fish.
376 376

porssoN$nn FISH KETTLE KETTLE (Fish boiler). POISSONIÈRE FISH Kitchen Kitchen Oish
boiler). utensil intended intended for for cooking utensil cooking fish. fish. It
It usually usually contains contains a a grid which makes possible to removable
grid makes it it possible to take take out out the the fish fish without breaking
it.
FISSURELLE gasteropod mollusc in a Species of FISSURELLE of gasteropod a conical -
Species shell similar to that of the limpet or barnacle. sheU barnacle. It It has
radiating radiating and is is perforated at ribs and tip. Fissurel/es at the tip.
Fissurelles live in in temperate temperate and tropical waters and and there and
there are about a a hundred different types. The Greek Greekfssnrelle, fissurelle,
called types. called Saint Peter's ear, ear, is is very very Mediterranean. common
in the Mediterranean. All AU recipes for octopus (q.v.) are suitable for this
mollusc.

ffi
Fissurelle Fissurelle

Fistulina hepatica Fistulina

FISTULANE - Common Common French French name name for for a a headless FISTLJLAI\E
mollusc also also known known as as gastrochire. gastrochère. lts Its shell sheU is
is tubular. mollusc
Fistulanes Fistulanes are are cooked cooked in the the same same way way as as
cockles cockles (q.v.). (q.v.).

what what tasteless tasteless edible edible fungus fungus which which grows grows
on on the the trunks trunks of of oak trees. trees. It is is commonly commonly
known known in in France France as langue-delangue-deoak boeuf (ox (ox tongue)
tongue) orfoie-de-boeuf or foie-de-boeuf (ox (ox liver). liver). In In U.S.A.
U.S.A. it it is is boeuf known as as liver /iver fungus. fungus. known
FLAGEOLET - See See BEAN. BEAN. FLAGEOLET

FISTULINA HEPATICA. HEPATICA. FrsruLrNE FISTULINE nfplfleus HÉPATIQUE - A

someFISTULINA - A some-
1. 1. Mimolette Mimolette 2. 2. Boulette Boulotto d'Avesnes d'Avesnes 3. Maroilles
3. Maroilles 4. Maroilles mignon 4. Maroill$ mignon 5. d'Avesnes Baguette d'Avesnes
5. Baguette 6. Bondard -neufchâtel 6. Bondard'neufchttel 7. 7.Camembert Camomb€rt
8. cam€mbart 8. Petit Potit camembert 9. aromatis6 crCmearomatisé Triplecrème
9.Triple 10. 10,Triple Triplecrême cr6me 11. Brie 11 . Bric 12. Saint-paulin
12.Saint·paulin 13. portions enportions 13.Saint-paulin Saint-paulin en 14. Petit
paulin saint-paulin 14. Petitsaint-

15. l'évêque 15. Pont· Pont-l'6v€que 16. - l'évêque pont-l'6v6que 16, Petit Petit
pont 17. 17. livarot Livarot 18. 18, Sainte-maure Sainte-maure 19. 19.Coulommiers
Coulommiers 20. Carré 2O. Carr6de do l'Est l'Est 21 . Petit l'Est 21. P6tit carré
de l'Est carr6 de 22. Munster 22. Munst€r 23. Petit munster 23. Petit munster 24.
Baby 24.Baby 25. pour tartine Fromage pour tartine 25.Fromage 26. Comté 26. Comt6
27. Valençay 27. Valengay 28. 28.Chèvre bondes Ch6vrebondes

29. de Chavignol Chavignol 29. Crottin Crottin de 30. chCvre Charolais chèvre 30.
Charolais 31. ch6vre 31. Pyramides Pyramides chèvre nantais 32. 32. Curé Cur6
nantais 33. 33. Chabichou Chabichou 34. Toucy 34, Toucy 35. Cantal 35.Cantal 36.
nectaire Saint-nectaire 36.Saint37. Saint-gorlon 37.Saint-gorlon 38. Saint-
florentin 38.Saint-florentin 39. Epoisses 39.Epoisses 40. Langres 40. Langres 41 .
Bleu deBresse Bresse 41. Bleude 42. 42.Gaperon Gaperon

d' 43. Fourme Fourme d' 43. Bleu d'Auvergne d'Auvergne 44. Bleu 44. Reblochon 45.
Reblochon 45. 46. Emmenthal Emmenthal 46. 47. Beaufort Boaufort 47. grise 48, Tomme
Tommegrise 48. 49.Saint-marcellin Saint-marc€llin 49. 50.Roquefort Roqu€fort 50.
Roquofort en tranches 51.Roquefort entranches 51. Pyr5n6cr desPyrénées 52.Fromage
Fromage des 52. Poivred'âne d'tne 53.Poivre 53. Provence Banon de deProvence
54.Banon 54. (grafcheeee) raisin(grafcheese) Fonduau auraisin 55.Fondu 55. Niolo
56. 56. Niolo Asco 57.Asco 57.
FLAN FLAN
FLAKES. FLAKES. FLocoN FLOCON - Name Name given to certain certain cereals,
flattened in in a a rolling-mill rolling-mil! and used used (in (in France) France)
as a garnish in soups or or as as an an ingredient ingredient ofporridges. of
porridges.

FLAKY FLAKY PASTRY. PASTRY. FET.TTLLETAGE FEUILLETAGE - See DOUGH. DOUGH. FLAMANDE
FLAMANDE (A (À LA) LA) - Name Name of of a hotpot hot pot and of of a garnish,
which which is is used used especially especially for for large large cuts of of
meat meat served as as an

intermediate intermediate course. course. It It consists consists of of braised

braised cabbage, cabbage, carrots, carrots, diced diced belly belly of of pork,
pork, and and potatoes. potatoes. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) The The name
name d à la la flmnande flamande is is also also applied applied to to a method
method of of preparing preparing asparagus asparagus (q.v.). (q.v.).

FLAMBER FLAMBER - To To sprinkle a a dish dish with spirits spirits which are are
set
alight just before before serving. serving. alight just

FLAMICIIE FLA MICHE - Legrand Legrand d'Aussy d'Aussy (a (a French French scholar,
scholar, 17371737-

'It 'It is is a a kind kind of of galette galette made made with with baker's
baker's dough. dough. It It is is rolled rolled

1800), 1800), thus th us describd, described theflamiche the flamiche as as it was

was made made in in his his day: day:

out out with with a a rolling-pin rolling-pin and and put put in in the the oven
oven while while the the wood wood is is burning. buming. As As soon soon as as it
it has has been been thoroughly thoroughly heated, heated, it it is is taken taken
out out ofthe orthe oven oven and and spread spread with with butter. butter. It It
is is eaten eaten as as soon soon as as it out of of the the oven.' oven.' it comes
cornes out Nowadays Nowadays the the name name flamiche flamiche is is given given
to to a a kind kind of of leek leek tart tart made made in in Burgundy Burgundy and
and Picardy. Picardy. To To make make this this tart, tart, line hne a a buttered
buttered tart tart tin tin with with pastry, pastry, fill fill with with sliced
sliced white white leeks leeks which which have have been been cooked cooked slowly
slowly in in butter butter until until very very tender, tender, blended blended
with with yolks yolks of of egg egg and and well weil seasoned. seasoned. Cover
Cover with with a a thin thin layer layer of of lining lining pastry. pastry. Press
Press the the edges together and and crimp crimp them. them. Brush Brush with with
egg egg and and bake bake edges together in in a a very very hot hot oven. oven. In
of France, France, this this tart tart is is made made with with a a mixture
mixture In some sorne parts parts of

offlour, of flour, egg egg yolks, yolks, yeast, yeast, sugar, sugar, and and rum
rum or or brandy. brandy. FLAMINGO. FLAMINGO. rrarralNr FLAMANT - Wader Wader with
with webbed webbed feet. feet. The The Romans Romans considered considered it it a
a delicacy delicacy though though it it is is now now less less highly highly
prized. It is is cooked cooked in in the the same same way way as as bustard bus
tard (q.v.). (q.v.). prized. It

northern northem France. France.

FLAMIQUE FLAMIQUE -A A form form of offlamiche flamiche made made in in some sorne
parts parts of of
How to to prepare prepare flan flan cases cases How

covered of raw raw red red fruit. fruit. Boil Boil |t litre litre (scant (seant
pint, pint, covered with with a a pur6e purée of

FLAMRI FLAMRI - A A semolina semolina pudding, pudding, usually usually served

served cold, cold,

2f 2i

add I oz., add 300 300 g. g. (1 (II oz., l| I~ cups) cups) fine fine sugar, sugar,
2 2 whole whole eggs, eggs, a a pinch pinch of ofsalt salt and and 6 6 stiffiy
stiffly whisked whisked egg egg whites. whites. Pour Pour the the mixture mixture
into into a a buttered buttered mould, mould, put put it it in in a a pan pan of of
hot hot water, water, and and bake. bake. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Turn Tum
out out the the pudding pudding and and pour pour over over it it a a pur6e purée
of ofsweetensweetened redcurrants, raspberries). raspberries). ed raw raw red red
fruit fruit (strawberries, (strawberries, redcurrants,

cups) cups) white white wine wine with with the the same same quantity quantity of
of water. water. Gradually Gradually pour pour into into it it 250 250 g. g. (9 (9
oz., oz., l| 1t cups) cups) fine fine semolina. semolina. Mix. Simmer gently gently
for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. To To this this 'porridge' 'porridge' Mix. Simmer

Flan cases cases are are made made of of short short pastry, pastry, fine fine
lining lining or or ordinary ordinary Flan pastry, pastry, sweet sweet pastry,
pastry, semi-flaky semi-flaky pastry, pastry, or or with with left-overs left-overs
of puff puff pastry. pastry. of FLAN AUx AUX poMMEs POMMES cRMALDT GRIMALDI - Cut
Cut Apple flan flan Grimaldi. Grimaldi. puN Apple 4 big big cooking cooking apples
apples into into quarters quarters and and cook cook them them in in
vanillavanilla4 flavoured syrup. syrup. Drain Drain and and arrange arrange in in a
a flan flan case case (U.S. (U.S. pie pie flavoured prepared in in the the
following following manner: manner: shell) filled filled with with rice, rice,
prepared shell) Bake the the flan flan case case blind blind in in a a flan flan
ring. ring. When When ready, ready, fill fill Bake with cooked cooked sweetened
sweetened rice, rice, mixed mixed with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of
of with candied orange orange peel peel shredded shredded very very finely, finely,
flavoured flavoured with with candied Curaçao, and and with with I1tablespoon
tablespoon butter butter added added to to it. it. Curagao, Put the the well-
drained well-drained apple apple quarters quarters on on this this rice, rice,
sprinkle sprinkle Put with crushed crushed macaroons macaroons and and castor
castor sugar sugar and and glaze glaze in in the the with oven. oven. This flan
flan is is served served hot, hot, accompanied accompanied by by Curagao-flavoured
Curaçao-flavoured This Custard crearn cream (see (see CREAM). CREAM). Custard FJan
Ià la la bordelaise bordelaise - Bake Bake a a flan flan case case blind. blind.
Fill FiJI with with a a Flan coarse salpicon salpicon of ofbeef beefbone-marrow
bone-marrow mixed mixed with with diced, diced, lean, lean, coarse ham and and
blended blended with with very very thick thick Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce
cooked ham cooked (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate the the top, top,
alte.rnating alternating strips strips of of poached poached and and drained,
drained, bone-marrow bone-marrow with with fresh fresh mushrooms mushrooms which
have have been been sliced sliced and and sauteed sautéed in in oil. oil. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with which breadcrumbs. Pour Pour on on melted melted butter. butter.
Brown Brown toasted breadcrumbs. toasted hot oven. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with
with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. quickly in in a a very very hot quickly la
bourguignonne bourguignonne - Bake Bake a a flan flan case case blind. blind. Fill
Fill with with FJan iàla Flan mixture prepared prepared as as follows: follows:
Simmer Simmer l0 10 sliced sliced white white leeks leeks a mixture a in butter,
butter, without without browning. browning. When When very very tender, tender, add
add 3 3 dl. dl. in (tpint, pint, l| li cups) cups) Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce
(soe (see SAUCE) SAUCE) enriched enriched with with $ dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant It c.rp) cup) fresh fresh cream, cream, boiled boiled and
and I1 dl. 377 377

FLAMUSSE FLAMUSSE (hrrgundian (Burgundian pastry) pastry) - Flan Flan made made of
of lining lining pastry pastry filled filled with with a a cheese-flavoured cheese-
flavoured cream cream blended blended with with
eggs. eggs.

FLAN -- Pastry Pastry preparation preparation whose whose name name comes cornes
from from the the FLAN metallurgical metallurgical term termflan flan (a (a metal
metal disc). dise). The The flan flan has has been been in in existence many
centuries. centuries. The The Latin Latin poet poet Fortunatus Fortunatus existence
for for many (53M09 (530-609 A.D.) A.D.) mentions mentions it. it. He He says says
that that Saint Saint Radegonde, Radegonde, as as an an exercise exercise in in
mortification, mortification, made made flans flans but but ate ate only only the
the
coarse outer crust crust of ofrye rye or or oatmeal oatmeal dough. dough. coarse
outer A Aflan flanis isan an open open tart tartfilled filled with with fruit,
fruit, cream, cream, etc. etc. Flans can be be served served as as hors-d'euvre
hors-d'œuvre or or as as a a light light main main Flans can course, course, and
and as as such such have have a a savoury savoury filling. filling. They They are
are also also served served as as a a sweet. sweet. Recipes Recipes for for savoury
savoury flans flans and and some sorne sweet sweet flans flans are are given given
below. below. Recipes Recipes for for sweet sweet flans flans are are also also
given given under under TART. TART. (In (In U.S.A. U.S.A. a a flan flan is is known
known as as a a tart tart or or pie.) pie.) Flan Flan cases cases -- Made Made in
in the the same same way way as as tart tart cases, cases, and and are are

either either baked baked blind blind (unfilled) (unfilled) or or with with the the
indicated indicated filling. filling.

Fresh Freshfruits: fruits:pineapple, pineapple,orange, orange,black, black,red

redand andwhite whitecurrants, curranl5, melon, melon,cherries, cherries,apricot,
apricot,strawberries, strawberries,mango, mango,raspberries, raspberries,peach,
peach,banana, banana, avocado avocadopear, pear,grapefruit, grapefruit,apples
apples(Phot. (Phol.Larousse) Larousse)
FLAN
strained. strained. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Pour
Pour on on melted butter and brown in the oven. oven. Brillat-Savarin flan. flan.
FLAN BRILLAT-SAVARIN - Bake blind a flan flan case case made of Fine Fine lining
paste (see (see DOUGH). Fill creamy scrambled eggs this cru st with with very very
creamy eggs and and trufres. truffies. this crust stripe of seasoned Decorate the
the top with strips seasoned truffie dipped dipped in grated Parmesan. melted
melted butter. butter. Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan. Pour Pour on melted
butter. Brcwn Brown in a very hot oven. re cARorrEs A la flamande. Carrot Carrot
flan flan i à la flamande. FLAN FLAN DE DE CAROTTES À LA with finely chopped
chopped carrots, FLAMANDEFill an unbaked flan with FLAMANDE - Fill boiled in a
little water with butter, sugar, and flavouring to boiled custard, slightly taste.
taste. Moisten Moisten with with a a few few tablespoons custard, thickened with
potato flour or arrowroot. sprinkle Bake Bake in a moderate oven. Just before
before it is cooked sprinkle is evenly the oven ove,n until it is with icing sugar
retum to to the until it sugar and and return glazed. This flan can be served hot
or cold. glazed. FLAN AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE Cheese flan flan. rulN Cheese - Line a
flan ring, standing (see Fine lining sheet, with with Fine lining paste on a a
buttered buttered baking baking sheet, paste (see on follows: Boil as follows:
mixture preparod DOUGH). Fill a mixture Fil! with with a prepared as g.(2 thick
fresh cream with 50 g. t litre (scant (scant pint, 2} 2i cups) thick (2 oz.,
{ salt, pepper and and nutmeg. Add with salt, i cup) butter. Season with cup)
butter. (4 oz., g. (4 stove to flour and and mix mix on on the the stove 100 100 g.
I cup) cup) sieved sieved flour oz., 1 obtain a cream. obtain a rather thick cream.
Take the pan off off the heat and add to the cream 4 egg yolks Blend into and 150
g. (5 oz., It cups) grated Gruyère oz.,l| Gruydre cheese. Blend to a a very very
stiff the eggs, beaten to the mixture the the whites of the eggs, beaten whites of
the foam. Bake the flan in a a hot oven. such as Dutch cheese, Other Other types
types of of cheese, cheese, such as Cantal, Cantal, Dutch Parmesan, etc., can be
used used for this flan. Parmesan"
pieces. into thick pieces. ragofrt of chicken livers livers cut cut into a ragoût
Prepare a quickly in in sizzling saut6 quickly and pepper, and sauté Season with
salt and Season pepper, and keep hot. hot. In In the the sa same livers and and
keep Drain the livers butter. Drain me butter, (5 oz.) g. (5 Drain and Season.
Drain 150 g. sliced mushrooms. Season. oz.) sliced saut6 150 sauté warm with the
chicken livers. keep wann pan in ($ pint, into the the pan in scant cup) cup)
Madeira Madeira into 2 dl. dl. (t Pour 2 pint, scant cooked. Boil have been which
the the livers livers and and mushrooms have which been cooked. (generous -t pint,
I-t l| cups) thn Bdchamel cups) thin down. Add Add 3-t 3+ dl. dl. (generous down.
Béchamel I pint, cup) fresh cream. sauce (see SAUCE) and 2 dl. (! pint, scant cup)
and liver and and mushrooms and Add to this sauce sauce the pieces of liver to this
Add sieve and a sieve the sauce through a thick. Strain the fairly thick. cook
until fairly put the livers and in it. it. Keep hot without and mushrooms back back
in the boil. bringirfg bringirtg to the (they should be Add 2 rather soft). soft).
Add some eggs (they be rather Scramble sorne (3 tablespoons) grated Parmesan and 2
2 tableParmesan and tablespoons) grated tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) livers and
butter. Put Put the the chicken livers spoons (3 tablespoons) butter. spoons Cover
with with the of the flan. Cover mushrooms at at the the bottom bottom of the flan.
mushrooms melted on melted scrambled eggs. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Pour on
scrambled very hot hot oven. and brown a very butter and brown in a rtlN
D'ÉCREVISSES o'fcRrvtssss À A flan à I la la Nantua. Nanhra. FLAN crayfi$ flan
Freshwater crayfish Freshwater tail Fill with with Crayfish Bake a flan case case
blind. Crayfish tail LA NANTUA a flan blind. Fill LA - Bake (see CRA mixed with
with truffies. truffies. ragofit à CRAYFISH) h la la Nantua (see ragoût YFISH)
mixed quickly in hot oven. very hot Brown quickly in a a very Brown lobsters, and
shrimps, crabs, lobsters, and spiny spiny All shellfish shellfish flans, with
shrimps, AU omitted. can be omitted. in this way. The truffies can lobster are
prepared in with a flan case blind. blind. Garnish with i la h financière
financiOre flan case Flan à - Bake a ragofit à with concentrated Demid la
financidre a ragoût financière thickened with a glace (see (se SAUCE) flavoured
with with Madeira. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with Madeira. glace oven. in the the
oven. breadcrumbs. Brown in Fill with with a Bake a case blind. blind. Fill a t la
la florentine a flan flan case Flan à - Bake squeezed, coarsely coarsely spinach
(cooked whole, drained, squeezed, layer of spinach with Mornay Cover with simmered
in in butter). butter). Cover chopped, and and simmered chopped, (se SAUCE). grated
cheese. on cheese. Pour Pour on sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with
grated sauce a hot hot oven. in a and brown brown in oven. melted butter and melted
poIREAUx AU FRoMAGE -AU FROMAGE FLAN DE DE POIREAUX Leek flan flan with with
cheese. cheese. FLAN Leek sheet. Lirie Lide with with flan ring on on a a buttered
baking sheet. Stand a a large flan Stand (see DOUGH) Remove the DOUGFD and bake
blind. blind. Remove Fine lining lining paste (see Line the the flan flan flan on
an ovenware dish. Line on an flan ring. ring. Place the the flan ovenware dish.
flan (see SAUCE). Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with a a few few tablespoons
tablespoons Mornay with short parboiled for leeks, parboiled for a a very very
short a few few white white leeks, on top a Arrange on with mornay mornay sauce
sauce in butter. butter. Co Cover time ver with time and and simmered simmered in
pour grated Parmesan, Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan, pour enriched with with
butter. butter. Sprinkle enriched oven. in the melted butter, butter, and and brown
brown in the oven. on on melted onions instead instead of of be made made with This
flan with small small onions flan can can also also be This glazed first. first.
leeks. The The onions must be be weil well glazed leeks. onions must A LA LA CRÈME
cniun -ruN AUX Aux FRAMBOISES FRAMBoIsEs À cream flan. flan. FLAN Raspberry
Raspberry cream sugar. raspberries. Cover with sugar. from the the raspberries.
Cover with Remove Remove the the stems stems from (see CREAM) flavoured French
pastry cream crecun (see CREAM) flavoured Put a layer of of French a layer
raspberries and and flan case. with raspberries with vanilla on on a a baked flan
case. Cover Cover with jelly. of raspberry raspberry jelly. a a smal! small amount
amount of flan case Fill with with chicken chicken reine Bake a a flan case blind.
blind. Fill Flan Flan à i la la reine - Bake (see SALPICON). toasted reine (see
Sprinkle with with toasted Salpicon la reine SALPICON). Sprinkle Salpicon à d la
hot oven. Decorate the the in a a very very hot oven. Decorate breadcrumbs and and
brown brown in with strips strips of of truffle. truffie. top top of of the the
flan flan with RICE. Rice flan flan See RICE. - See Line the the bottom bottom flan
case blind. Line Flan la Sagan Bake a a flan case blind. Flan à i la Sagan - Bake
(q.v.) of in truffies blended blendod in with of mushrooms mushrooms and and
truffles a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) with a powder. Arrange of Arrange slices slices
of curry powder. cream seasoned with with curry cream and and seasoned strip of of
top, with with a a strip calves' in butter butter on on top, brains sautéed saut6ed
in calves' brains (se, SA SAUCE) truffle UCE) with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see
slice. Cover Cover with truffie on on each each slice. pour on grated cheese, on
cheese, pour flavoured curry. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated flavoured with
with curry. a hot hot oven. oven. in a melted and brown brown in melted butter,
butter, and Bake a a flan flan case case of of Seafood Attx FRUITS FRUITS DE DE MER
MER -- Bake rrlr.I AUX Seafood flan. flan. FLAN (see DOUGH). pastry (see with a a
Fill with paste or DOUGH). Fill Fine Flaky pastry Fine lining lining paste or Flaky
(oysters, mussels, crayfish tails, tails, seafood freshwater crayfish ragofrt
(oysters, mussels, freshwater seafood ragoût Normande cockles, Blend in in rather
rather thick thrck Normande other shellfish). shellfish). Blend cockles, and and
other (sw SAUCE). breadcrumbs, sauce with toasted toasted breadcrumbs, SAUCE).
Sprinkle Sprinkle with sauce (see hot oven. oven. pour pour on brown in in a a hot
melted butter, butter, and and brown on melted

(Debillot. Phol. Selection Selection of of flans flans (Debillol. Phot. Larousse)

Larousse\

Cheese flan FLAN AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAcE JULIETTE JULIETTE flan Juliette Récamier.
R&amier. FLAN flan ring ring on on a a buttered metal baking Stand a a flan
buttered metal - Stand (see DOUGH). paste (see sheet. Fine lining DOUGH). Fill Fill
the the sheet. Line Line with with Fine lining paste bottom of the flan flan with
with beef beef bone-marrow dipped in in conconof the bone-marrow dipped parsley
centrated centrated veal veal stock stock and and flavoured flavoured with with
chopped chopped parsley and the moisture has and shallot shallot cooked cooked in
in white white wine until until aU all the evaporated. pepper, and grated nutmeg.
nutmeg. salq pepper, and grated evaporated. Season Season with salt, FiU French
pastry the flan flan half-full half-full of cream cream made made like like French
Fill the (see CREAM) grated cheese cream uearn (see with grated cheese but
unsweetened, with CREAM) but and oven. and a a little fresh cream cream added.
added. Bake in in a a moderate moderate oven. As place on ready, tum on an an As
soon soon as as the the flan flan is is ready, turn it it out out and and place
ovenware dish. few tablespoons tablespoons dish. Decorate Decorate the the top top
with with a a few very very soft soft scrambled scrambled eggs eggs flavoured
flavoured with with cheese. cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated grated cheese and
and brown brown as as rapidly rapidly as as possible. Chicken FLAN DE Dts FOIES
FoIEs DE DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Chicken liver liver flan flan Chavette. Chavette.
FLAN CHAVETTE (see paste (see Make a Fine lining lining paste cHAvETTE -- Make a
flan flan case case with with Fine DOUGH) and and bake bake blind.
RÉCAMIER nfcltrrnn -

378 378
FLOUNDER FLOUNDER
ShelffiS Shellfisb flan. n,c.N FLAN DE cRUSrAcEs CRUSTACÉS - Using cooked lobster,
crayfish, or some sorne other other shellfish, and a sauce sauce appropriate
appropriate to the fish chosen, chosen, proceed proceed as indicated in the recipe
for Freshwater crayrtshflan crayfish flan d à Ia la Nantua. Sole flan i à la
normande. normande. rr,tN FLAN DE sot,Es SOLES A Àu LA NonulNDE NORMANDE Fillets of
sole prepared it anang& as a border à la normande normande arranged border in a
flan crust. crust. Cover Coyer with Normande sauce (se (see SAUCE) and and garnish
garnish as as indicated indicated for for Fillets of sole d à la normande normande
(see (see SOLE). Fish flans of of all ail kinds kinds can be made made in the same
same way. Fillets Fillets of of fish are are first poached poached in white white
wine or or cooked cooked in butter butter and arranged as a border in the flan.
flan. Any meatless garnish can be put in the flan and covered covered with a sauce
appropriate appropria te to the garnish used. province has has much much in in
common common with with that that of Artois Artois and and Picardy. Picardy.
C\finary chitterlings of Cambrai and and Culinary speialities specialities - Baby
chitterlings Armentidres; Armentières; smoked smoked tongues tongues of of
Valenciennes; Valenciennes; craquelots craquelots of Dunkirk (herrings (herrings
smoked with the leaves of the hazelnut tree); tree); soupe verte (green soup);
Flemish hotpot; hotpot; poule poule au au prunes; tartine de blanc white sauce);
sauce); rabbit rabbit with withprunes; blanc (chicken in white
beurre. beurre.

The The purpose of seasoning seasoning is is to to give give relish relish to to

food. food. Information relative to aromatic plants and their uses uses in the
kitchen kitchen will be found found in the entry entitlod entitled CONDIMENTS.
FLETcISRISIT,TE FLETCHÉRISME - Doctrine established established by Horace Horace
Fletcher, Fletcher, American industrialist, who restored his gravely failing health
by following an extremely austere diet (after book on on the the subject).
subject). He (after having having read read Gornaro's book claimed to to have
discovered the the 'golden 'golden key key to to health' in claimed mastication
mastication pushed pushed to its extreme limits: not swallowing swallowing a a
mouthful mouthful of of food until it was reduced to the state of of a liquid
liquid pap and had lost all ail its flavour. flavour.

FLETCHERISM.

FLEUR DE DECAWILLE DECAUVILLE - See CHEESE. CHEESE. FLEUR FLEUR DE FARIhIE FARINE -
Pure wheaten wheaten flour. ITLEUR

FLANDERS. FLANDERS. ruNoRE FLANDRE

- The The cookery cookery of this this northern northern -

FLEURON - Small Sm ail flaky flaky pastry motif used used to to decorate decorate
certain top of ofpdtis pâtés in pastry pastry crust. certain dishes dishes and the
top
FLELTRS FLEURS DE DE VINVIN - Little Little whitish whitish or bluish bluish
flakes, caused caused by development of of mycoderma mycoderma vinr, vini, which
appear in wines wines the development The appearance appearance of of these these
flakes flakes generally on the the turn. turn. The on precedes acid fermentation.
fermentation.

Among are; apple Among the the best-known best-known sweets and and pastries
pastries are: apple pdti pâté of of Avesnes; craquelins craquelins of Roubaix;
caruis carrés of Lannoy; kokeboterom of Dunkirk (small buns made made with eggs and
and butter, butter, sweetened sweetened and and decorated with with raisins); red
plum plum
tarts: tarts; couques; bAtises bêtises from Cambrai. Cambrai. Good Good cheeses
cheeses are are made made in in French Flanders. Those Those of Bergues, Bergues,
Mont-des-Cats Mont-des-Cats and and Marolles Marolles (a (a very very pungent
pungent cheese) cheese) are are the best best known. known. Beer is the the local
local drink, drink, and and good good quality quality spirits spirits are Beer is
distilled from from juniper juniper and beetroot. beetroot.

FLOATING ISLAI\D. ISLAND. lrr ILE rlormNru FLOTTANTE - Cut into thin layers layers
FLOATING a stale Savoie (sponge) (sponge) cake. cake. Steep the slices in kirsch
and sprinkle maraschino. Spread Spread each one with apricot apricot jam and
sprinkle maraschino. currants. with chopped blanched almonds and dried currants.
Build up the cake into its original original shape by laying the slices one on top
of of the other. Ice with Chantilly Chantilly ueon cream (see (see CREAMS)
flavourod flavoured with with vanilla. Decorate Decorate with almonds, CREAMS)
chopped pistachio Pour chilled vanillavan illapistachio nuts, and currants.
currants. Pour flavoured flavoured custard over the cake. The The pulp pulp of
strawberries, raspberries, or or redcurrants, redcurrants, be used used instead of
of custard. may be sieved and sweetened, may

FLANGNARDE - This flan, flan, which which is is sometimes called ca lied flognarde,
is is made made in in Auvergne Auvergne and Limousin. Limousin. flognarde, Put 3
tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant i cup) flour in a bowl. bowl. Break 3 3 eggs
smooth eggs into into it. Add Add a a very very little little salt. Sweeten.
Sweeten. Mix to a smooth paste, paste, adding I i litre (lj (l~ pints, pints, l| li
pints) milk, milk, boiled boiled and cooled. Flavour Flavour with with vanilla
vanilla or grated grated lemon lemon rind. Pour Pour through through a strainer
into a deep buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish. Dot Dot with with small
pieces of of butter butter and and bake bake in in a a hot hot oven. oyen. Serve
hot or cold. cold.
FLAh{K. FLANCHET - Cut Cut of of beef beef between between the the fat fat section
section and and FLANK. FLANcHETthe the breast. breast. (See (See BEEF.) BEEF.)
FLATTEN. FLATIEN. ArLATIR APLATIR - Action Action which which renders renders a
piece piece of of meat meat (mtrec6te, (entrecôte, rump rump steak, steak,
escalope, escalope, cutlet, cutlet, noisette, noisette, etc.) etc.) thinner beater
or mallet. mallet. Flattening Flattening thinner by by beating beating it it with a
beater meat meat makes makes it it easier to to cook cook and and makes makes it
more more tender. tender.

FLORENTII{E FLORENTINE (A (À LA) - Method Method of preparation used used mainly of

spinach cooked in mainly for fish and and eggs, eggs, set on a bed of butter,
covered with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with and
browned. browned. with grated cheese, cheese, and
FLOUNDER. ftlN FLOUNDER. rLEr, FLET, rT FLÉTAN - Common Common name name for a fish
of the the same same family as as the the brill, brill, dab, dab, lemon sole, sole,
sole, sole, and these others never leave leave the sea, sea, flounders, turbot.
While these though though also saltwater saltwater fish, fish, are often found in
fresh fresh water. They are even caught in the River Seine between between Pont-
dePont-deI'Arche l'Arche and and Les Les Andelys. Andelys. The flounder is oval in
shape, covered with tiny scales. scales. They colour from from greenish greenish
brown brown to to blackish blackish They vary vary in in colour yellow, yellow,
with with yellow, yellow, orange, or reddish reddish markings. markings. In In
France, France, the the flounder flounder is is sometimes sometimes known known
asflandre asflandre (or flondre) de de riviire rivière or or de de picard picard.
In In former former times times it it was was flondre) incorrectly flétan (halibut)
which which is is in fact, a quite quite incorrectly called ca lied flitot
different northern waters. waters. different fish, fish, found in in northern In
northern countries of of Europe, Europe, especially Norway, Norway, In northern
flounders flounders are preserved preserved by by drying and smoking. smoking. All
Ali recipes recipes for brill briU (q.v.) (q.v.) and and turbot turbot (q.v.)
(q.v.) are suitable for for flounders. flounders. The The flounder flounder plays
plays an an important part part in in American American cookery, cookery, often
often taking taking the the place place of of sole and and turbot turbot which
which are are not not found found in in American American waters waters and, and,
having having to to be be imported, imported, are are rather rather expensive.
expensive.

FLAVOURING. plnrur PARFUM - Before Before the the eighteenth eighteenth century,
century, flavourings very today were were very different from from those those in
in use use today employed aromatic employed often often excessively. excessively.
As As well weil as as the the simple aromatic plants, plants, such such as as
thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, savoury, coriander, coriander, aniseed, aniseed,
marjoram, marjoram, and and sage, sage, more more exotic exotic aromatics aromatics
like essence essence of of roses roses or other other flowers, flowers, benzoin,
benzoin, amber, amber, etc., etc., were were quite quite common. common. These
These aromatics aromatics are are now now only only used used in in very very small
doses doses in in the preparation of of sweet sweet courses, courses, in in pastry-
making pastry-making and and the preparation confectionery. confectionery . Liqueur
Liqueur wines wines such such as as Madeira, Madeira, Frontignan, Frontignan, porl
port, sherry, sherry, etc. are widely widely used used nowadays nowadays for for
flavouring. flavouring. etc. are Various Various brandies brandies (Cognac,
(Cognac, Armagnac, Armagnac, Calvados, Calvados, etc.) etc.) are are used used for
for flavouring flavouring sauces sauces and and gravies gravies and and for for
bringing bringing out out the the taste taste of of preparations preparations such
such as as game game stews, stews, salmis, salmis, shellfish shellfish d à
l'amiricaine l'américaine or or d à la la bordelaise, bordelaise, woodcockflambi,
woodcockflambé, pressed pressed wild wild duck, duck, etc. etc.
379

Flounder Flounder
FLOUR
FLOUR. FARINE FARINE -- Flour ground and Flour is is the the finely finely ground
and bolted bolted FLOUR. meal of of wheat wheat and and other other cereals,
cereals, including including rye, rye, buckwheat, buckwheat, meal (corn), but rice
oatmeal oatmeal and and maize maize (corn), but since since wheat, wheat, with with
its its rice gluten, is content of of gluten, is best for breadmaking, best for
breadmaking, the the word word flour flour content generally connotes connotes
wheat wheat flour. flour. The The milling grain for milling of of grain for
generally flour dates dates back prehistoric times. back to to prehistoric times.
What What for for centuries centuries flour job of was the the hard hard domestic
producing flour domestic job of producing flour that that could could be be was
made into into bread, bread, has has developed developed through through the the
ages ages into into aa made large industry. industry. There There is is evidence
evidence that that wheat wheat or or corn corn was was large crushed and and used
used as as food food at years ago; at least least 6000 6000 years ago; the the
crushed pounding stones purpose have stones used used for for this this purpose
have been been discovered discovered pounding in archaeological archaeological
diggings diggings in in the the British British Isles, Isles, Switzerland,
Switzerland, in and elsewhere. elsewhere. and The Romans Romans invented invented
slightly slightly conical (querns) conical millstones millstones (guerns) The which
were were turned turned by by hand hand or or by by slave slave and and beast.
beast. Once Once the the which grain was was crushed, crushed, the the flour flour
was was bol boltod through horsehair horsehair grain ted through produce different
sieves to to produce grades of different grades of flour. flour. The The invention
invention of of sieves the water-propelled water-propelled mill mill dates dates
from from about about the the time time of of the the the birth of of Christ,
Christ, and and it it was was also also at at this this time time that that flat
flat millmillbirth stones were preference ta were used used in in preference to
conical conical shapes. shapes. stones Windmills first first appeared appeared in
in Europe Europe about about 1300 13CI and and were were Windmills used until until
the the invention invention of of the the steam steam engine engine in in 1760.
1760. widely used From then then on on rapid rapid advances advances were were
made, made, culminating culminating in in From roller mills, mills, invented
perfected in invented and and perfected in Switzerland Switzerland between between
roller 1834 and and 1836. 1836. The The roller roller system, system, with with
many many modern modern 1834 mechanical improvements, is is stiJl still in in use
use in in aU large comcomall large mechanical mercial mills.
grades)depending clear grades) germand depending on on the theamount amount of
ofgerm andbran c1ear bran leftin in the theendospenn endosperm flour. flour.
Freshly Freshlymilled milledwhite white flour flour isis left pale yellow yellow
but butbecomes becomes whitewith white with ageing. ageing.To Tohurry hurry this
this pale process most most mills mills use useaachemicaJ chemicalagent agent which
which is isrigorously rigorously process government. Vitamin controlled by by the
the government. Vitamin content controlled content lost lostin inthis this process
is isusually usually replaced. replaced. process Dietitians blame processes for
blame modern modern milling milling processes forcausing Dietitians causing the the
lossof of certain certain essential essential elements proteic layer Theproteic
elements of loss ofwheat. wheat.The layer is one. one. It It contains protein
substances, contains three three times times more moreprotein is substances, nine
nine times more more fatty fatty substances, substances, and times and ten ten
times timesmore moreminerai mineral salts than than the the farinaceous farinaceous
kernel kernelof salts grain. Then Thenthere ofgrain. thereare arethe the vitamins,
diastases, diastases, enzymes, whichaccumulate vitamins, enzyrnes,which accumulate
in inthe thehusks. husks. The same same applies applies to to the the wheatgenn,
wheatgerm, which The which contains contains in inits its very small small volume,
volume, substances substances of very of immense nutritional value. immense
nutritional value. great elasticity The great elasticity of preventsitit being The
of the the wheatgenn wheatgerm prevents being crushed in in the thecourse
processes,and crushed course of of modern modern milling milling processes, andit
itis is consequently discarded conseguently discarded with with the theother waste
matter. matter. other waste Graham flour flour is ground from Graham is unbolted
unbolted wheat meal ground wheat meal from the the whole kernel. kernel. Whole tire
wheat whole Whole wheat, wheat, wholemeal wholemeal or or en entire wheat contains
con tains aU all of of the the kernel kernel except portion of except aaportion the
bran. of the bran.

FLOLTRING. FARINER FLOURING. rlnrnm. -- To To sprinkle sprinkle fish fish or or

other other food food lightly with lightly with flour. flour. pieces of To To dip
dip in in flour flour small small pieces of meat, meat, usually usually escalopes
escalopes and and cutlets cutlets of of veal, veal, and and lamb lamb cutlets,
cutlets, before before dipping dipping in inegg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs
and frying in and frying in butter. butter.

(Atsatiur cookery) FLOUTES FLOUTES (Alsation cookery) -- Quenelles made with with
Quenelles made potatoes. mashed mashed potatoes.
FLUKE. FLLjKE.
CARRELET cARR.ELET -

See PLAICE. PLAICE. - See

FLUORINE. - Under FLUORINE. FLUOR, FLUoR, FLUORURES FLUoRUREsUnder nonnal normal

conditions, conditions, man man absorbs quantities of absorbs small small
guantities of fluorine fluorine with with his his food, food, the the most most
valuable valuable source source being being drinking drinking water. water.
Children Children who who drink drink water water that that is is deficient
deficient in in fluorine fluorine are are much much more more susceptible
susceptible to to dental dental caries caries than than children children who who
live live where where tains not the the drinking drinking water water con contains
not less less than per than 1 I mg. mg. fluorine fluorine per litre. litre. Foods
Foods richest richest in in fluorine fluorine are fish and are fish and tea. tea.
Small Small amounts present in amounts of it are are present of it in meat, meat,
egg, egg, cow's cow's milk, milk, and and fresh fresh vegetables. FLÛTE FLtnE --
The The long long French popular in French roll roll popular the Paris Paris
region. region. in the The The flûte potage is d potage long French is a a long
French roll roll used used for for making making fl,frte à crof,ttes served croûtes
served with with broths and and hotpots. hotpots. FLUTE. FLUTE. CANNELER cANNELER
-- The The operation operation of of cutting cutting vegetables, vegetables, fruit,
fruit, and and the the edges edges of of sorne some sweet sweet courses courses in
in a a decorative decorative manner. manner. Vegetables, Vegetables, mushrooms,
mushrooms, and and lemons lemons can can be be decoratively cut cut with with
kitchen kitchen knives knives or or with with special special tools. tools. Circles
of pastry pastry cut with a pastry-cutter are cut with a fluted-edged fluted-edgod
pastry-cutter are said to be be cannelés. cannelis. The The same same tenn term is
is used used for for the the operation operation of marking marking the the sides
sides of of a a cake with with a a small small knife, knife, although although this
is is more often called (pinking). called chiquetage chiquetage (pinking). FOGOSCH
Hungarian fish (q.v.). a pike-perch (g.v.). fish is is a - This Hungarian FOIE GRAS
GRAS livers of the livers of fattened fattened - Preparations made from the geese
and and ducks ducks were were known in the the ancient world. world. The goose was
The goose was regarded regardd by by the the Romans Romans not not only only as as
a a sacred en a (from the sacred animal animal (from goose saved the time time wh
when a goose savd the the Capitol), but also also as as a a succulent succulent
one, one, for for its its meat meat and and liver liver were highly highly prized
by gounnets gourmets of the period. of the The Romans used various methods Romans
used methods of of fattening fattening ducks ducls and and of causing causing a
considerable swelling of of the the liver. Scipio Metellus, Scipio Metellus, a a
Roman Roman gastronome, had had the the idea idea of of plunging the still wann
warm livers in in a a bath bath of of milk milk and honey, and honey, where they
were were left for several several hours. hours. When When taken taken out out of
of the milk, the livers were were considerably swollen. swollen. In cookery the the
name name foie foie gras is used only goose or is used only of of goose or a
special duck liver fattened in a special way. way. The The livers livers of
Toulouse of Toulouse Strasbourg geese geese sometimes kg. (41 lb.). and Strasbourg
($lb.). sometimes weigh weigh 2 zkg.
380 380

Flour Flour (.|[icolas) (Nicolas)

The wheat kernel is composed of three parts; endosperm, genn germ or or embryo,
embryo, and bran. The The object object of ofmilling milling is to separate the
endosperm from the bran bran and germ, germ, because white flour the endosperm is
is derived derived from the the endosperm endospenn which generally comprises
comprises 84 84 per per cent cent ofthe of the kernel, as opposed opposed to the 2
per cent content content

of germ germ and and 14 14 per cent content content of bran. bran. Modern
commercial milling milling of wheat first first cleans the grain by means of
mercial air blasts blasts and and disk disk separators. separa tors. After After
this this the the wheat wheat is is air moistened and allowed allowed to 'temper',
'temper', a process process which hardens hardens moistenod the bran bran and and
makes makes the the separation separation more more complete. the is accomplished
accomplished by by alternated alternated reductions reductions Separation is
Separation (rollings (rollings at at varying varying tensions), tensions), and and
purifications (classifica(classificathe endotions by by mechanised mechanised
winnowing winnowing and and sifting of the tions spenn particles, particles, the
the bran bran chips and and the the germ). genn). The results results spenn of the
se successive successive reductions reductions and purifications purifications are
blended ofthese into various various standard standard and and commercial
commercial blends (patents and into
FOIE GRAS

A A hinged rectangular rectangular mould mould and a hinged round round mould mould
for pit6 pâté (D (Dehillerin. Phol. Larousse) ehille r in. P ho t. Lar ous se)
PAt6 Pâté de foie gras gras decorated by by hand, from an l8th 18th century century
document document

Foie Foie gras gras is is regarded regarded as as one one of the the greatest
delicacies delicacies available. available. 'The 'The goose,'says goose,' says C.
G6rard, Gérard, author author of of L'Ancienne L'Ancienne Alsace Alsace d à table,
table, 'is 'is nothing, but man man has has made made of it it an instrument
instrument for the the output of of a marvellous marvellous product, a kind of
living living hothouse hothouse in which which grows grows the the supreme supreme
fruit fruit of gastronomy.' gastronomy.' This This 'fruit' 'fruit' isfoie isfoie
gras, gras, from from which which are made made the the succulent succulent potted
potted products products and and pdtds pâtés of Strasbourg, Strasbourg, Toulouse,
Toulouse, P6rigueux, Nancy, etc. etc. Périgueux, Nancy, The foies gras gras comes
cornes from geese reared reared in Alsace Alsace The finest finest foies and south-
westem south-western France. France. Toulouse Toulouse foies foies gras are greatly
greatly sought Duck foie foie gras gras is is also aJso very delicate, but has a
sought after. Duck tendency in cooking. cooking. Other Other European European
tendency to to disintegrate disintegrate in goorefoie countries countries besides
besides France France produce produce very very good good go ose foie gras, gras,
notably notably Austria, Austria, Czechoslovakia Czechoslovakia and the Duchy Duchy
of of LuxemLuxemburg. burg. The The quality of of foie foie gras gras can be judgd
judged primarily by its can be colour and It should be be creamy-white, creamy-
white, and also also by by texture. texture. It tinged tinged with with pink, pink,
and very firm. tr'oie Foie gras gras aspic aspic - See ASPIC. ASPIC. Foie Foie gras
gras en en Bellevue Bellevue - Line a a plain mould mould with jelly. Decorate
Decorate with with strips strips of of trufte truffie and the the whites whites of
of hard boiled boiled egg. of jelly. jelly. Leave on ice egg. Cover Coyer these
these with with a a second second layer layer of until foie gras gras or until
thoroughly thoroughly set. set. Add Add slices slices of poached foie slices of of
potted potted foie foie gras gras with with truffies. truffies. Fill the the mould
mould with with slices half-set half-set jelly. jelly. Chill Chili on on ice. ice.
Foie gras gras en en brioche brioche (hoQ (hot) - Season Season truffies truffies
and and pour Foie brandy over over them. them. Take Take a a large, large, very
very firm firm foie foie gras gras which which brandy will will not not
disintegrate disintegrate in in cooking. cooking. Stud Stud it it with with the the
trufres, truffies, and and season season with with spiced spiced salt. Pour Pour
brandy brandy over over it it and and leave leave to to steep for for several
several hours hours in this this seasoning. seasoning. steep Wrap the the foie foie
gras gras tn in a a piece piece of of pork pork caul cau! (or in in very thin thin
Wrap slices slices of of pork pork fat) fat) and and cook cook in a slow oven oyen
for for 18 18 to 20 20 minutes. Put it it in in a a buttered buttered baking baking
tin tin lined lined minutes. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Put thickly with with
unsweetened unsweetened Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH).
thickly Coyer with with a a layer layer of of dough. dough. Tie Tie a a strip of of
buttered buttered paper paper Cover round round the the tin tin to to prevent
prevent the the dough dough from from overflowing overflowing during during baking.
Leave Leave to to rise rise in in a a warm warm place. place. baking. in a a hot
hot oven oyen for for 50 50 minutes minutes to to 1 hour. hour. To test test Bake
in Bake foie gras gras is is cooked, cooked, drive drive in a a long long skewer.
If If whether the the foie whether the skewer skewer comes cornes out out quite
quite clean, clean, the/oie the foie gras gras is is ready. ready. Turn Turn the
out the the brioche brioche and and serve. serve. out Foie gras gras en en brioche
brioche (colO (cold) - Proceed Proceed as as for for Foie Foie gras gras en en Foie
brioche (hot). (hot). Leave Leave to to cool cool before before serving. serving.
brioche Foie gras gras en en chausson chausson - Proceed Proceed as as for for Foie
Foie gras gras en en brioche. brioche. Foie Stud the/o,egras thefoie gras with with
truffes truffies and and cook cook for for 18 18 to to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Stud
Put it it on on a a rather rather stifflayer stiff layer of of Brioche Brioche
dough dough (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Put Roll in in a a scroll scroll shape.
shape. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oyen. Serve Serve hot hot or or cold. cold.
Roll Foie grre gras en en cocotte cocotte or or €n en casserole casserole - Trim
Trim a a large, large, firm firm Foie

of

gras and stud stud with truffies truffles seasoned seasoned with Spiced saft salt
(see foie gras SALT) and sprinkled sprinkled with brandy. Season Season thefoie the
foie gras with with brandy and leave to steep for 12 hours. spiced salt, pour on
brandy Brown Brown thefoie the foie gras in very hot butter. butter. Put in an
ovenware dish. Moisten with the cooking Madeira cooking butter mixed with Madeira
or any other heavy heavy wine and concentratod concentrated thickened brown veal
veal stock. stock. Cover Coyer the the dish dish and and seal with a a strip strip
of paste. oyen for 45 minutes to I 1 hour, according according to Cook in a slow
oven the size of the the foie foie gras. Serve in the cooking cooking dish.
croquettes and kromeskies. c6rerrrres, C6TELEITES, Foie gras cutlets, croquettes
CROQUETTES, cRoMnseurs CROMESQUIS DE DE ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS - These cRoeLrETTEs,
These different preparations, preparations, which are served as as hot hors-d'euvre
hors-d'œuvre or as as a are made from salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of liver, liver, light
main course, are light from salpicon added, in the same sa me way as as chicken
cutlets, cutlets, diced trufres truffies added, with diced croquettes and
kromeskies (see CHICKEN). 'eggs' (cold). onups OEUFS DE DE Fom FOIE cRAs GRAS
FRorDs FROIDS - Foie Foie gras 'eggs' gras gras mousse (see (see MOUSSE) shaped
shaped in in little little egg-shaped mou Ids. A truffie is is placed in the middle
of each each mousse moulds. which wruch is coated coated with jelly jelly when it
is quite cold and covered covered with brown or white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce
sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with The 'eggs' are built buiJt up into a pyramid or put
in a nest of through a forcing-bag. forcing-bag. butter piped through Escalopes of
foie gras Cambac6rts Cambacérès - Saut6 Sauté slices of of foie foie Escalopes gras
gras tn in butter. butter. Put each one on an artichoke artichoke heart cooked in
salpicon of of mushrooms in cream. cream. butter and filled with a salpicon
escalope arrange 2 thick strips of truffie. truffie. On top of each escalope Dilute
the the cooking cooking butter butter with Madeira, Madeira, thicken thicken with
DemiDilute glace (see SAUCE), SA UCE), flavour with Truffie Truffle essence, and
pour the dish. dish. over the Escalopes of foie foie gras en chaud-froid - Slices
of of foie foie gras gras Escalopes (plain or truffied) truffied) covered covered
with white white or brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid Decorate with trufles, truffies,
whitc whites of hardsauce (see SAUCE). Decorate sauce boiled eggs, eggs, pickled
pickled tongue, ton gue, and jelly. jelly. boiled The escalopes can be be served in
individual individual paper cases, or in silver, porcelain, porcelain, or or glass
shells; shells; each on a a bed bed of of chopped in jelly. jelly. They can can
also also be arranged in a circle circle on a bed of set set jelly jelly in in a a
bowl, bowl, and covered covered with jelly. jelly. Escalopes of foie foie gras gras
with witb grapes. grapes. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE ForE FOIE Escalopes GRAS AUx
AUX RAISINS RAISINS - Saut6 Sauté slices of/ore of foie gras gras rn in butter.
Drain cRAs put each each on a slice of bread bread fried in butter. Decorate
Decorate and put juices with with peeled peeled grapes. grapes. Dilute Dilute the
the cooking cookingjuices with Frontignan with or other other heavy wine. wine.
Boil Boil down, add add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons or brown veal veal
stock, stock, and and boil boil again. again. Cover Coyer the the thickened brown
thickened escalopes with with this this sauce. sauce. escalopes Escalopes of foie
foie gras gras with with grspes grapes and and tmffies truffles (colQ. (cold).
Escalopes ESCALOPES DE DE ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS AUx AUX RAISINS RAISINS ET ET ALrx
AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES - Cook EscALopEs the foie foie gras gras tn in its its own own
fat. fat. Cut in slices. On top of each each the truffie, dipped dipped in in jelly
jelly so that it slice place place a a wide wide strip of truffe, slice will stick
stick to to the the escalope. escalope. Glaze GIaze with with jelly. jelly. will

381 381
FOIE FOIE GRAS GRAS
Arrange Arrange the the escalopes escalopes in in a a circle cirde in in a a bowl.
bowl. In In the the middle, middle, heap heap a a dome dome of of fresh fresh
peeled peeled grapes which which have have been been steeped steeped in in a a
little IiUle liqueur liqueur brandy. brandy. Cover the the dish dish with with
clear cJear jelly jelly ffavoured fiavoured with with port port or or other other
heavy heavy wine. wine. Chill Chill thoroughly thoroughly on on ice ice or or in in
the the refrigerator. refrigerator. J<.:s.calop,es of of foie foie gras Montrouge
M4:lDtrOllji!e - Saut6 Sauté slic'a sUces of offoie Escalopes foie gras in in
butter. butter. Arrange in a a circle, circle, each on on a a slice slice of of
bread bread fried in butter. butter. Pile pile tfuck Mushroom Mushroom purde purée
(se (see PUREE) PURÉE) in in the the in middle middle of of the the dish. dish.
Cover Coyer the the escalopes escalopes with with their their cooking cooking
juices juices diluted dîluted with with Madeira Madeira and and veal veal stock.
stock. Escalopes Esocalop;es of of foie foie gras gras Richelior Ricbeliw - Dip Dip
slicer slices of of foie foie gras gras in in egg and breadcrumbs. Saut6 Sauté in
in clarified c1arified butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in a a circle cirde on a
dish" dîsh, and and pour pour over the,m them diced diced truffies truffies in in
in melted melted butter butter flavoured flavoured with with a Cl little liule
Madeira Madeira or or other other heavy heavy wine. wine. Escalopes ~alopes of of
foie gras à la la romaine romaine - Saute Sauté slices of of /oie foie gras rn in
butter. butter. Arrange on rounds rounds of of bread bread frid fried in butter.
butter. Cover with Romaine Romaine sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Serve with with
rice rice cooked in butter. butter. Escalopes of of foie foie gras with with
tmfres. truffies. BscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE DE FoIE fOrE GRAS GRAS A(x AUX rRuFFEs
TRUFFES - Saut6 Sauté slices of/orr offoie gras rn in butter. butter. Arrange
Arrange on on rounds of of bread fried in butter. butter. Cover Coyer with with
slices of of trufre truffle heated heated in the butter butter in which whîch the
escalopes escalopes have have been been cooked. Dilute Dilute the cooking cooking
juices juices with Madeira Madeira or other other heavy wine wine and Demi-glace
(se (see SA:UCE), SAUCE), and pour pour over the dish. Stud a foie gras Foie gras à
la financilre financière - Stud gras with with truffies. truffies. on brandy brandy
and saft (see SALT). Pour on with Spiced salt Season with leave leave to steep for
a a few few hours in in this seasoning. Wrap the a slices of of pork caul or foie
gras in pork park caul or thin thin slices pork fat. fat. Cook in a foie 45
minutes. Madeira, for 40 to 45 adding Madeira, braising stock, addil1g braising of
bread on slices slices of serve on Drain, and Serve Drain, and bread fried fried in
in butter. Sur(see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) to which round with Financiire Financière
garnish (see which has been and straÎned, strained, has stock, concentrated and the
braising the braising stock, added. more This dish is DE FOIE FoIE G{{AS GRAs PAIN
DE loaf (hot). PAlN Fofu gras loar îs more - This on as such such on describod as
usually described and is is usually a loaf and a souffi6 than a than a (hot)') gras
mou.sse (See MOUSSE, mousse (hot).) Fol'e gras MOUSSE, Foie restaurant menus. (See
Ll GELÉE crrfn A LA DE FOrE FoIE GRAS GRAs À gras loar rarN DE in jelly. loaf in
Foie gras Foie ielly. PAIN jellied stock. stock. Madeira-flavoured jellied in
Madeira-flavoured liver in large fat fat liver a large Poach a Poach slices. cut
one lobe into slices. drain, and cut Cool, drain, poached, liver was was poached,
liquor in which the liver Remove fat from the liquor Remove jellied stock based on
on quantity of stock base<! of jellied an equal equal quantity to it it an and add
add to and fine ChamCham' of fine Add a small glass of a small stock. Add trufle
stock. concentratod trume concentrated with a a and hiod bind with liquor by by
half, and pagne brandy, boil down the liquor boil down (7 oz., g. (7 scant 200 g.
oz., seant yolks. Heat, Hea! incorporale incorporate 200 4 egg egg yolks. liaison
of of 4 liaison for recipe for in the the recipe described in and proceod as
described cup) butter butter and cup)

with with truffies truffies and and the the whites whites of of hard-boiled hard-
bolled eggs. eggs. Fill Fil! only only to to within within I 1 cm. cm. G (t inch)
inch) of of the the top. top. Cover Coyer the the mousse mousse with with a a layer
layer of ofjelly. jelly. Chill Chill in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. Turn
Turn out out onto onto a a buttered buttered slice sUce of of bread bread or or
onto onto a a serving serving dish. dish. Surround Surround with with chopped
ehopped jelly jelly and and make make a a border border of of jelly cut eut out out
with with a a pastry-cutter.

HoWandaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Hollandnise (l teaspoon) gelatine teaspoon)

gelatine When just warm, add to it 2 leaves Cl When rubbed the liver liver rubbed
rest of of the and the the rest water, and warm water, soaked in warm soaked much.
too much. stirring too BlenC without without stirril1g fine sieve. sieve. Blend a
fine through a through jelly. Decorale of the the walls of Decorate the the walJs
clear jelly. with clear mould with a mould Coat a Coat liver composition
composition FiU with with the the liver of truffies. truffes. FiJI with slivers
slivers of mould with mould and liver and of the the slieed sliced liver layers of
with layers them with layers, alternating them in layers, in jelly. Leave on Leave
to to set set on layer of of jelly. with a a layer of tfumes. truffies. Cover wilh
slivers of slivers refrigerator. or in in the the refrigerator. ice or ice plain.
Garnish Garnish or plain. crotton, or crustless croûton, on a a buttered Serve on
butterod crustless Serve with jelly croûtons. crofitons. with of Slices of DE FOIE
FoIE GRAS GRAS -- Sliees gras medllUiollS. ufo,l'trroNs DE merlallions. MÉDAILLONS
Foie gras be can be They can medallions. They gras are called medallions. are
sometimes sometimes called fOÎe foic gras gras). (see Escalopes offoie Escalopes of
hot or or cold cold (sec served hot served foie gras). cooked (cold). MOUSSE Rub
cooked DE FOn: FoIB GRAS GRASgras mousse Moussn DE mousse (cold). Foie gras Foie -
Rub with 2{ dl. dl. in aa bowl bowl with gras through fine sieve. sieve. Put Put in
through aa fine foie gras jelly and (f; pint, 4 dl. dl. (~ and 4 ginerous cup)
melted jelly cup) melted pint, generous lscant t f piat, (see SAUCE) to every every
litre velouti (sec SAUCE) to Chickm velouté scant 2 2 cups) ctps) Chicken seant
gently pur6e. Work (l| pints, generous quart) quart) purée. mixture gently pints,
generous Work trus this mixture (H (l pint, partly whisked pint, seant whisked 2
cups) cups) partly 4 dl. scant 2 Add 4 dl. G on ice. ice. SeasolJ. Season. Add on
fresh cream. cream. fresh jelly and decorated lined with and decorated mould lined
with jelly mixture in in aa mould Put the the mixture Put

2t

Foie gras gras motrsie mousse (hot) - See MOUSSE. Foie Foie gras gras mousselines
(colo. (cold). MoUSSELINES MOUSSELINES DE DE FoIE FOIE cRAs GRAS Use Use the the
same same mixture mixture as as for for Foie Foie gras mousse mousse (cold).
(cold). Put Put jelly. into into little little cups and and decorate decorate with
with trufres. Glazp Glaze with wi\.h jelly. Dicd Diced truffies may may be be added
added to to the the mixture' mixture. Foie Foie grre gras pancakes pancakes à la la
P6rigottrdine. Périgourdine. plNuEQUErs PANNEQUETS DE DE FoIE FOrE cRAs GRAS A À r-
1, LA pfntcouRDINE PÉRIGOURDINE - Make Make thin thin unsweetened unsweetened
chopped pancakes. pancakes. Fill Fîll them them with with foic gras mixed mixed
with with truffies truffies and and flavoured flavoured with a a little Armagnac.
Roll the pancakes pancakes into into scrolls, serolls, trim trirn at at each each
end, end, and halve halve them. them. Put Put them them on on a a buttered buttered
disb, dish, sprinkle sprinkle lightly lightly with will fried fried in the oven.
breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and wann warm for for a a few few minutes minutes in
the oyen. Foie Foie grre gras with with paprika (colO. (cold). FoIE fOIE cRAs GRAS
AU AU PAPRIKA PAPRIKA - Stud Stud thefoie the foie gras gras with trufles. trumes.
Season Season with with salt salt and and paprika, paprika, and and pour pour
brandy brandy over. over. Wrap Wrap it it in in a a piece piece of of pork park
caul caul and and poach poach to cool. Unwrap, leave in in Madeira. Madeira. When
When cooked, cooked, drain drain and and leave to cooL Unwrap, with Chaud-froid
press into into shape in in a a cloth. cloth. Cover Cover with Chaud-froid sauce
sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured with with paprika. paprika. Decorate Decorate
with witb strips strips of of truffe, truifle, and and green green and and red red
sweet sweet peppers, peppers, cut eut into iDto rings rings seconds in and and
poached for for a a few few seconds in jelly. jelly. and cover Glazn the foie gras
gras with with jelly. jelly. Put Put it it in in a a dish dish and caver or other
with clear jelly flavoured fiavoured with with port port or other heavy wine. wine.
Parfait of foie gras Parfait gras (cold) (cold) - Name Name given given to to
several preparapreparaanother. one another. quite considerably considerably from
tions tions which whjch differ differ quite from one of foie a mousse was a of foie
grat was a parfait of In ID former former times times a mousse of studded with with
gras tnjelly. gras in jelly. Nowadays it is a whole/oie gras, studded stock, cooled
cooled poached in in a truffies, truffies, poached a Madeira-flavoured jellied
stock, injelly. served in and served and jelly. a parfait a pdti of as a describe
as cookery describe on cookery writers on Some writers Sorne parfait a an ordinary
from an differs from pastry crust which differs crust which in pastry foie gras
gra:; in foie pockets empty pockets of the the empty gras, only instead of only
because because instead pdti fu foie gras, pâté de pdt6 is being (which appear is
cold) cold) being the pâté appear when when the surface (which on the the surface
on jelly. with jelly. filled with are :6Hed fat, they are or goose fat, with butter
butter or filled with filled 'To 1 I kg. kg. P6riguurx (old recipe) - 'To foie grs
de Périgueux Pltd of of foie Pâté pork fat; fat; gras; kg. (3+ lb.) pork (2* lb.)
12 foies trufres add 12 lb.) truffies foies gras; kg. Make chopped. Make all
chopped. mushrooms, ail parsley; spring onions;and spring onions; and mushrooms,
layer of of sliced sliced pork fat a layer with a fat covered covered with chopped
pork of chopped the pdti of spices and and fines fine spices and fine salt and fine
salt with fine seasoned with truffies, seasoned a top of ofthat a on top fat, and
and on layer of ofpork another layer next, another herbes; next, herbes; pork faL,
mushand mushabove, aod g'rat seasoned as indic.ated indicated above, seasoned as
layer of of foie foie gras layer building up Continue building parsley, and onions.
Continue spring onions. and spring rooms, parsley, rooms, are used. ingredients are
the ingredients all the until all pdt6 in same order order unlil in the the same
the pâté the leave to to pork fat. and leave Cook and fat. Cook of pork slices of
with slices the whole whole with Cover the Coyer 1767.) portatif de fu culsÎne,
Paris, 1767.) (Dictionnaire portatif cuisine, Paris, cool.' (Dictionnaire cool.'
pArs DE gras. PÂTÉ GRAS TRUFFÉ rnurrr on FOIE FoIE GRAS foie gras. of foie Tmfred
p0t6 of Truffied pork and (2| lb.) and foie gras, 1 lb.) pork kg. (2~ I kg. frrm
foies Ingredients. 2 firm foie foies gras, Ingredients. (2+ lb.) pastry (14 oz.)
lb.) pastry I kg. kg. (2± trufres, 1 oz.) Iruffles, gras forcemeal, 400 g. (14
forcemeat, 400 gras pepper, spices. spices, salt, pepper, leaf, thyme, thyme, salt,
pork fat, fat, bay leaf, dough, park dough, Madeira. brandy, Madeira. brandy,
peeled and gras with and truffies, peeled with trumes, the foie Stud the Method.
Slud foie gras Method. salt with Spiced Spiced salt left whole. whole. Season
Season with qnartered or, if small, small, left or, if in steep in Leave to to
steep (see SALT) with brandy. brandy. Leave and sprinkle with SALT) and hours. 2
hours. for 2 and Madeira for brandy and brandy with the (a hinged mould) round or
or oval oval mou hinged round pdti mould mould (a Linea Line a pâté Id) wi th the
made be made This must must be (made with lard). This or lard). butter or pastry
dough with butter dough (made for aa long long time. time. left to to stand stand
for and left in advance and of the the with part of of the sides of the pastry with
and sides bottom and Line the the botlom Line Cover gras, pressed close close
together. Coyer in the the foie Put in stuffing. Put foie gras, stuffing. slice of
of of this this lay aa slice top of stuffing. On On top layer of of sluffing. a
domed domed layer with a with Cover of thyme. thyme' Caver small sprig of leaf, and
and aa small pork fat, half aa bay bay leaf, fat, half Decorate dough and and seal
the edges. Decora pdti with layer of of dough with aa layer the pâté te pastrywith
pastrypastry motifs motifs shaped with decorative pastry top with with decorative
the top the

ll

382 382
FOIE GRAS FOIE GRAS
(and other pottdfoie grar other potted It It is advisable advisable to prepare
prepare pottedJoie gras (and potted gras) at 24 hours preparations preparations
containing containing foie Joie gras) at least least 24 hours before before using.
using. potted portions, potted To make it it easier to to serve in in individual
individual portions, rectangular in rectangular kitchens in in restaurant is made
made in restaurant kitchens Joie gras is foie gras dishes. earthenware, porcelain,
porcelain, or metal dishes. perigourdine. fagon périgourdine. gras with la façon
trufres à la with truffles Potted Potted foie foie gras

pfnlcounpINE r,lqou PÉRIGOURDINE A LA FAÇON TRUFFf À Cn,C,S TRUFFÉ TERRINE DE

TERRINE DE FOIE FOIE GRAS

rl

Truffled pdt6 pâté de foie gras (Presse Moderne) Truffied

Ieaves, crescents, etc.) or strips of plaited cutters (lozenges, leaves, pieces of

of dough shaped 3 or or 4 round pieces In the middle middle put 3 dough. In middle
of in the the middle a fluted ftuted pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Make a hole in a
hole with a these for the escape escape of of steam during during baking. Brush
with egg. Bake in a fairly hot oven. luke-warm pour into it either half-melted
Cool. When it is luke-warm used at at is to be used some time, or if it is lard, if
it is to be kept for sorne once, Madeira-flavoured Madeira-ftavoured jelly. 12
hours before de foie Joie gras must be Pâté de at least least 12 made at be made
Pdti using. The mould can be lined with a a stuffing made entirely using. of Joie
gras Joie gras stuffing. gras instead andpie instead of with pork and of foie pArls
(oH recipe). PErIrs PÂTÉs SmaU trufHed pâtés recipe). PETITS pfltes of foie foie
gras (old Small trufred gras and with DE 'Take Joies stud with afr stud Atrx
TRUFFES TRUFFES --'Take DE FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs AUX foies gras Joie gras stuffing
especially truffles. Make a for the the purpose. especially for afoie truffies.
Prepare pdti moulds. Put stuffing at at the Put the stuffing Prepare little
individual pâté bottom, a side. gres on each side. at each a truffle truffie at on
top and a a piece of of Joie foie gras put them Cover with them and put egg, and
with egg, Finish, brush with stuffing. Finish, with stuffing. pour a in a them,
pour uncover them, are ready, ready, uncover they are oven. When When they in the
the oven. gascon, (Iz Cuisinier !ittle Cuisinier gascon, and serve.' serye.' (Le
them and little essence into them essence into Amsterdam, 1747 .) Amsterdam, 1747.)
AUx Potted foie GRAS AUX DE FOIE FoIE GRAS gras with trufres TERRINE TERRINE DE
foie gras with truffles. (the TRUFFES halves (the Trim the the halves tn half.
half. Trim large Joie a large TRUFFEs foie gras in - Cut a trimmings them and stud
stud them make the the forcemeat), forcemeat), and to make used to trimmings are
are used th Spiced with large gras wi with Spiced pieces of Season the the joie
truffie. Season large pieces of truffle. foie gras salt I or or 2 for 1 2 (see
SALT). and steep steep for over it it and brandy over Pour brandy salt (see SALT).
Pour hours in seasoning. in this seasoning. Line pork fat. fat. Put in Put in of
pork with thin thin slices slices of dish with Line an an ovenware ovenware dish
(13 oz.) it g. (13 oz.) with 375 375 g. made with a forcemeat forcemeat made layer
of of a fairly thin thin layer it a a fairly lean the pork fat, of the fat, the (l
lb.) the trimmings trimmings of fresh pork g. (1 pork, 450 lb.) fresh 450 g. lean
pork, joie (5 oz.) or chopped g. (5 chopped oz.) diced diced or gras 150 g. oz.),
150 about 200 2N g. Q oz.), e. (7 foie gras - about trufHes (3 tablespoons, cup)
scant if cup) dl. (3 tablespoons, scant with t flavoured with truffies ftavoured *
dl. Madeira spiced 4 teaspoons teaspoons spiced seasoned with with 4 and seasoned
or brandy Madeira or brandy and Joie gras salt. forcemeat. Cover Cover gras on on
top top of of this this forcemeat. half of of the the/oie salt. Put Put half with
the other other forcemeat. Put Put the trufled forcemeat. of the the truffled layer
of with another another layer half of remainder of gras on with the the remainder
cover with on top top and and cover half of of the the Joie foie gras the all the
the ingredients. ingredients. to ftatten flatten ail down weil well to the
forcemeat. forcemeat. Press Press down If aa Cover put ha half pork fat. of this
this put On top top of fat. On of pork slice of with a a thin thin slice Cover with
bay and seal seal the dish dish and of thyme. thyme. Cover Cover the sprig of leaf
and and a a small small sprig bay leaf te. Cook with standing in in aa paste. oven,
standing in the the oven, Cook in with ftour-and-water flour-and-water pas pan I
hour, hour, accordaccordto 1 for 45 45 minutes minutes to pan half-fuU hot water,
water, for half-full of of hot ing dish. the size size of of the the dish. ing to
to the Leave day. following day. until the the following light weight weight until
a light Leave to to cool cool under under a Next (this can the dish dish done if if
the more easily easily done can be be more out (this it out Next day, day, tum turn
it is Remove the the hot water). water). Remove in hot seconds in few seconds for
aa few is first first stood stood for slices gras gras. Dry theJoie potted joie Dry
the the potted of fat fat covering covering the slices of foie gras foie gras. with
the forcemeat forcemeat to make make the pressing aa little little so so as as to
cloth, pressing with aa cloth, quite the dish dish of the the bottom bottom of it,
line line the quite firm. replacing it, firm. Before Before replacing with (which
was goose fat was exuded exuded fat(which lard mixed mixed with with goose layer of
of lard with a a layer in over cold, over fat, almost almost cold, mixture of of
fat, similar mixture in cooking). cooking). Pour Pour aa similar theJoie l0 least10
for at atleast gras. Leave refrigerator for the refrigerator in the to chili chill
in Leave to the foie gras. hours. dish. cooking dish. in the the cooking hours.
Serve Serve as as it it is is in 383 383

gras ovemight Drain in cold cold water. water. Drain overnight in a large, Soak a
large, firm Joie foie gras cloth. and dry in a clotho gras, and and lobes of of the
the Joie in the lobes Make several incisions in foie gras, spices. and spices. with
salt salt and Season with truffie. Season a piece of trufHe. put into each a pork
fat. fat. thin slices of fresh pork Line a terrine completely with thin with a a
press weil Cover with down. Cover gras into well down. into it it and and press the
Joie Put the Put foie gras pork, chopped and together and chopped together fat
pork, lean and and fat layer of of lean thin layer thin on top top of of and on a
few few tablespoons tablespoons brandy, and seasoned. Pour on a seasoned. goose
fat. fat. melted goose pour a luke-warm melted a little luke-warm the whole mixture
pour flour-and-water edges with ftour-and-water the terrine, and seal the edges
Cover the cook in in a a pan half-full hot water water and and cook half-full of of
hot in a a pan Place in paste. Place grcs under light a light under a hour. Leave
Leave the the Joie I hour. hot oven for about about 1 oven for hot foie gras goose
of goose a few few tablespoons tablespoons of on a cold. Pour on until quite cold.
weight until lard. Cover melted lard. Cover a little little melted set, add add a
is quite set, fat, and when this is gummed paper. paper. Keep Keep in in a a of
gummed with a a strip strip of terrine. Seal Seal with the terrine. the dry place.
cool, dry goose fat. DE FOIE FolE gras in fat. CONSERVE coxsrnvr DE in goose potted
foie foie gras Preserved potted gras with with the Joie seasOn the EN TERRINE
TERRINE -- Season AU NATUREL NATUREL EN GRAS AU GRAS foie gras poach hours. Dry Dry
and and poach for a few hours. a few in brandy brandy for spiced salt. salt. Steep
Steep in spiced just large put in large in a a terrine terrine just goose fat. and
put fat. Drain, Drain, and in clarified clarified goose in quite goose fat. Leave
until until quite fat. Leave with goose hold it. it. Cover Cover with to hold
enough to enough leave to to lard and and leave layer of of melted melted lard thin
layer over it it a a thin cold. Pour Pour over cold. with a of a strip strip of the
edges edges with and seal seal the cool. Cover Cover the the terrine, terrine, and
cool. paper. gummed paper. gummed place, joie dry, cool cool place, in a a dry,
kept in this way way and and kept in this Prepared in Prepared foie gras will long
time. time. keep for for a a very very long wrll keep gras gras -- See foie gras
See QUENELLE. of foie Quenelles QUENELLE. Quenelles of a layer layer of of gras
rissoles. DE FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs -- Cut Cut a RIssoLEs DE rissoles. RISSOLES Foie
gras Foie (see DOUGH) shapes with with a a pastry dough into small small shapes
DOUGH) into Flaky pastry dough (see Flaky put 1 one put I tabletablepastry-cutter.
In middle of of each each one In the the middle fluted pastry-cutter. ftuted grar
with added, truffies added, with diced diced trufHes of joie spoon salpicon
salpicon of spoon fob gras a little little brandy. brandy. with a and ftavoured
flavoured with seasoned and seasoned sealing the the edges. edges. pastry into
carefully sealing into scrolls, scrolls, carefully Roll the the pastry RoU parsley.
Serve sauce with Périgueux Pdrigueux sauce Serve with fried parsley. Gamish Garnish
with with fried (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). jelly. COQUILLES DB FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs À
A LA LA gras sbell~ coqutI,r,Es DE ir jelly. Foie Foie gras shelb in gras, potted
Joie shells potted serving in in shells A method method of of serving GELÉE cnI-ie
-- A foie gras, with aa shellshellThe shells shells are are cut cut out out with
fat. The cooked cooked in in its its own own fat. To instead. To be used used
instead. can be tablespoon can shaped scoop or or aa tablespoon shaped scoop gran
from spoon dip the the scoop scoopor or spoon prevent the from sticking, sticking,
dip prevent the Joie foie gras jelly. chopped jelly. Decorate with with chopped
cutting. Decorate in hot water water before before cutting. in hot Rub through
through aa FoIE GRAS cRAs- - Rub gns soufflé. DE FOIE Foie sourprf DE Foie gras
soufl6. SOUFFLÉ gras raw joie g.(ll trimmed raw oz.) carefully carefully trimmed
(11 oz.) fine fine sieve sieve 300 300 g. foie gras whites. Put Put pounded in
mortar with with 33egg egg whites. in aamortar which which has has been been
pounded about ice, incorporating incorporating about work on onice, the bowl and
andwork the mixture mixture in in aa bowl little. Add Add 33 (+ pint, little by by
little. pint, li fresh cream cream little 3 l| cups) thick fresh 3 dl. dl. (t cups)
thick dish souffi6 dish Fill aa buttered buttered soufflé or whites. Fil! whisked
egg egg whites. 4 stifHy or 4 stifry whisked for 30 30to to pan ofwater, and cook
cook for with of water, and stand in inaapan with the the mixture, mixture, stand
35 35 minutes. minutes. (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce (see Serve Madeira sauce
sauce,Madeira with Périgueux Pirigueux sauce, Serve with (see ESSENCE). or
ESSENCE). or with with TruJfleessence Trffie essence (see pur6eof ofcooked cooked
withpurée Foie grassouJflé bemade madewith canalso also be souffii can Foic gras
Joie gras. foie gras. gras,steep steepin in Foie firm Joie grasSouvarov Season
aafirm Souvarov-- Season Foie gras foie gras, oveninan anovenbrandy, hot butter.
Put itit in very hot butter. Put in very brownin and brown brandy, and little
quarteredtrufHes. Pouron onaa!ittle proof truffies. Pour proof dish large quartered
with large dish with essence Demi-glace (se SAUCE) withTruJfle Trufie essence
mixedwith SAUCE) mixed sauce(see Demi-glace sauce stripof of ver the (see with
aastrip (see ESSENCE). seal with andseal dish and thedish Cover ESSENCE).Co paste.
minutesaccordaccordfor40 40to to50 50minutes ovenfor paste. Cook moderateoven
inaamoderate Cook in dish. ing gras.Serve cooking dish. inthe thecooking Servein
sizeof ofthe thefoie ing to to the thesize foie gras.

-
FOLLE.BLANCHE FOLLE-BLANCHE
gras tart Foie gras tart :i l'ancienne. I'ancienne. TOUR TouRTts DE FOIE ForE GRAS
cnls À A Foie lE DE Roll out out aa layer paste layer of (see of Fine Fine lining
lining pas - Roll le (see DOUGH) and and eut cut it it in in aa round round shape.
shape.Coyer Cover the the middle middle DOUGH) with aa layer layer of (see FORCEMEA
of Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat FORCEMEAT) forcemeat (see with T) gras purée
mixd with (s*PURED with aa little little Foie Foie gras purie (see and chopped
chopped mixed PURÉE) and trufres, leaving leaving aa border (l* inches). border of
of 3 3 to to 4 acm. crn. (11 inches). trumes, Top with with thick thick slices
slices of of raw raw truffle. trufre. Coyer Cover with with aa thin thin Top layer
of of the the stuffing, stuffing, and and finally, finally, with with aa !id lid of
of rolled-out rolled-out layer pastry. SeaJ Seal the the edges. edges. Makc Make a
pastry and hole a ho in the the pastry and decorate decorate pastry. le in pastry
motifs, with pastry motifs, or or score score with with shallow shallow criss-cross
criss-cross lines. lines. with Brush with with egg, egg, and and bake bake in in
the the oyen oven for for 45 45 to to 50 minutes. 50 minutes. Brush When the the
tart pour in tart is is ready, ready, pour in through through the hole the ho in
the the When le in middle, a few tablespoons a few tablespoons concentrated
concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce middJe, (see SAUCE) SAUCE) f1avoured
flavoured with (soe ESSENCE). withTrffie essence (see ESSENCE). (sec TruJ/fe
essence This tart tart can can also also be made with pastry (see (se DOUGH). with
Flaky Flaky pastry be made DOUGH). This (colo. TOURTE gras tart Foie gras tart with
with truffles trufles (cold). rouRTE DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAs AUX Ar.rx Foie
TRUFFES -- Using Fine lining paste (see (s@ DOUGH) Using Fine lining paste DOUGH)
make make the the TRUFFES gros tarI tart as as indicated indicatod for for Foie
Foie gras tart à it l'ancienne. I'ancienne. When When il it is is tart pour in
(through the cold, pour it (through into the hole hole in in the the centre)
centre) a few a few cold, to it jelly. tablespoons Madeira-flavoured Madeira-
flavoured jelly. tablespoons gras in goose fat. Tinnd foie foie gras in goose fat.
CONSERVE coNssnvE DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAS AU AU Tin.ned NATUREL -- Put gras,
seasoned Put very very firmfoies fitmfoies gras, seasonod and and steeped steeped
for for NATIJREL 2 hours hours in in brandy, brandy, into into oval oval tins,
tins, adding goose fat. adding a little goose a little fat. 2 Seal. Stand Stand
them them in in water water and and boil boil steadily steadily for for H hours for
l| hours for Seal. (2 lb.), tins weighing weighing 1 I kg. kg. (2 lb.), and and 1 I
hour hour for for tins tins weighing weighing tins (l lb.). 500 g. e. (J 500 lb.).
Drain, leave leave to to cool, cool, dry dry thoroughly, thoroughly, and and keep
in a a cool, cool, Drain, keep in dry place. dry place. gras in (hot). FOIE Trufled
foie foie gras in Madeira Madeira (hot). rom GRAS cn.ls TRUFFÉ rnurrn AU lu
Truffled gras with uloinn Stud a a foie gras with trumes truffies and leave to to
steep and leave steep in in - Stud MADÈRE gras in brandy. Wrap Ihe the foie gras
piece of pork caul in a a piece of pork or th thin caul or brandy. Wrap in pork
fat, slices of of pork fat, and and put it in a small small braising dish lined
lined slices put it in a braising dish with skin and and sliced sliced on onions
and carrots, carrots, which which with fresh fresh pork pork skin ions and have in
butter. butter. Coyer, Cover, and simmer for for 7 7 to 8 have been been tossed
tossed in and simmer to 8 minutes. (scant f with 2l dl. (seant cup) minutes.
Moisten Moisten with 2~ dl. ~ pint, pint, generous generous cup) Madeira. several
minutes. (| pint, dl. G Madeira. Simmer Simmer for for several minutes. Add Add 3 3
dl. pint, lf H cups) cups) concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock.
stock. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 45 45 minutes. minutes. Drain
Drain and and unwrap unwrap the the foie gras. gras. Strain, Strain, skim skim all
ail fat fat off off the over thefoie the stoclg stock, and and pour pour over the
foie gras. gras. Trufled Truffled foie foie gras gras in in Madeira Madeira (colo.
(told). ForE FOIE cRAs GRAS rnurrs TRUfFÉ lu At! rrrrotnr MADÈRE - Proceed Proceed
as as for for Trffied TruJ/fed foie foie gras gras in in Madeira Madeira (hot).
(hot). When When cooked, cooked, drain, drain, unwrap unwrap the the liver, liver,
and and put put it il in in a a terrine terrine just just large large enough enough
to to hold hold it. il. Strain Strain the the cooking cooking stock stock and and
pour over thefoie pour it it over the foie gras.Leave gras. Leave to to cool cool
for for 12 12 hours. hours. Skim Skim off off the the layer layer of of fat fat
which which will will have have formed, formed, and and serve serve in in the the
terrine. terrine. gras When Truffied in Madeira When TruJ/fed foie foie gras ln
Madeira is is to to be be served served cold, cold, the the veal veal stock stock
must must be be of of a a kind kind that that will wiU readily readily set set into
into a a jelly. jelly. Trufred Truffled foie foie gras gras in in port port (cold).
(cold). ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS rnurrn TRUfFÉ lu AU poRTo foie gras PORTO - Proceed
Proceed as as for for Truffied TruJ/fedfoie gras in in Madeira Madeira (cold),
(cohi), jelly using using jeJly flavoured flavoured with with port. port. Even Even
when when ruby ruby port port is is used, used, the the jelly jelly should should
be be amber-coloured. amber-coloured.
L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE

generally covered It is is generally jelly covered with with foil foil and and
masked masked with Il with aa jelly or savoury savoury butter, butter, depending
depending upon upon the the dish. dish. or FONDS -- French (See STOCKS, French term
term for for stock. stock. (See STOCKS, FU FONDS MET.) FUMET.)

FONDS DE DE PÂTISSERIE PATISSERIBTerm for for various various sweet pastry sweet
pastry FONDS - Tcrm bases used pAfisserie. used in in French French pâtisserie.
bases FONDLIE - This This narne name applies applies to to aa variety variety of
FONDUE of different different dishes. Il can can be be a cheese cheese sauce,
sauce, originally originally from from dishes. Switzerland, the the recipe recipe
for for which which follows follows under under Cheese Cheese Switzerland, L fondue
fon&re 1. It is is also also used used for for a a dish dish of of scrambled
scrambled eggs eggs with with cheese, cheese, It an original original recipe recipe
of of which which can can be found in in Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's be
found an go'frt. (Sec (Se Cheese Physiologie du fu goût. Cheese fondue II.)
Physiologie fondue Il.) preparations are Certain vegetable vegetable preparations
called fondue. are also also caUed Certain fondue. The vegetables vegetables are
are cooked cooked for for a a very very long long lime time in in butter, The
butter, lard, or or oil oil until until they pulp, i.e. they are are reduced
reduced to to pulp, i.e. become lard, Different vegetable vegetable fondues can be
be used used as conas confondues. fondues. Different fondues can great many
stituent elements elements in in a a great many dishes. dishes. stituent Burgundy
fondue. fondue. FONDUE FoNDTJE BOuRGUIGNONNE BouRcuIcNoNNE - This This
conconBurgundy temporary dish dish has has nothing nothing 10 to do do with with
Burgundy; Burgundy; it it is is a a temporary Swiss creation. creation. A A mixture
of of butter and placed in and oil oil is is placed in a Swiss a dish which which
is is set set over over ilS its own own individual heater heater on on fondue dish
the table. Cubes of steak steak are served separately. are served separately. With
the the aid aid the table. person plunges plunges a ofa fork, each each person
steak cube into the a steak of a fondue fork., and oil mixture, cooking it it to to
his tas taste, smoking butter and te, then th en it into one of a a variety of
sauces before eating il. dips it it. fondue. FoNDUE DE CAROTTES cARorrEs - Gently
Gently cook cook very Carrot fondue. FONDUE DE finely sljced sliced or shredded
shredded carroIS carrots in in butter, in in a covered pan. pinch of sugar. with
salt salt and a pinch Season with Cook the carrots untiJ until they are reduced
reduced to a pulp. Cook the carrots they are to a pulp. To avoid them few drops
drops of add a a few of avoid them being being fried fried in in the the butter
butter add water or bouillon from time to to time. fondue. FoNDUE cELERT Cook
sliced or diced diced Celery fondue. FONDUE DE DE CÉLERI - Cook celery or celeriac
celeriac gently in butter, adding a few drops water watcr or bouillon. Season. Cook
until the moisture moisture has completely completely evaporated. Cheese Cheese
fondue fondue I. roNorie FONDUE DE FRoMAGE FROMAGE * - This dish dish originated in
the French-speaking French-speaking part part of of Switzerland. It lt consists
consists of of gratod grated cheese cheese melted melted in white white wine,
seasoned seasoned with pepper, pepper, and flavoured flavoured with with a little
little kirsch. kirsch. The contains The Valais Valais fondue fondue con tains no no
butter, no no eggs, no no flour or starch of of any kind, and no chemical products
products in its ilS original form. foml. It Il is is prepared prepared in in a
small sma]] casserole and served on on a a hot plate plate or trivet. trivet. Each
Each person person round round the table table dips dips a piece pieœ of bread
bread spiked on the the end of of his his fork fork into into the the dish. dish.
The Freiburg) fondue The Fribourg Fribourg ((Freiburg) fondue is is prepared
prepared with with Vacherin Vacherin cheese, cheese, which which is is a a soft
cheese cheese made made in in the the Savoy Savoy from from cows' milk. milk. A A
century century ago, ago, M. M. Victor Victor Tissot Tissot gave gave Edmond Edmond
Richardin Richardin the the genuine genuine recipe recipe for for thrs Ihisfondue
with Vacherin. Vacherin. fondue with 'Take 'Take I 1 kgpi kg (2i lb.) lb.) fresh
fresh white whil<: Vacherin Vacherin cheese; cheese; cut eut it it into into small
small cubes cubes and and place place these these in in an an earthenware
earthenware or or enamelled enamelled iron iron pot. pot. Heat Heat over over a a
low low flame, flame, stirring stirring frequently frequently with with a a fork
fork made made of of new new wood. wood. Try Try not not to to be be distracted
distracted by by the the delicious delicious aroma aroma of of the the melting
me1ting cheese. cheese. When When the the cheese cheesc begins begins to to simmer
simmer and and is is ropy ropy and and cream-like cream-like in in consistency,
consistency, it it is is ready ready to to eat. eal. Place Place it it in in the
the centre centre of of the the table. table. 'Connoisseurs 'Connoisseurs have have
small small cubes cubes of of fresh fresh bread brcad ready ready on on their their
plate plate in in advance. advance. These These are are speared speared with wilh a
a fork, fork, then Ihcn plunged plunged and and turnod turned in in the the fondue.
fondue. Once Once a a forkful forkful is is well weil coated coated with with the
the smoking smoking cream, cream, it it is is removed removed and and eaten, eaten,
washed washed down down with with white white wine. wine. 'In 'ln this this way way
the the fondue fondue is is kept kept nicely nicely warm warm and and there there
is is none none ofthe of the bother bother oftransferring of transferring it it
from from one one receptacle receptacle to to another. another. '1 '1 kg. kg. (2|
(2i lb.) lb.) Vacherin Vacherin cheese cheese is is sufficient sufficient to to
make make ample ample

It

which which grows grows in in the the Charentes Charentes region. region. The The
wine wine made made from from these these grapes grapes is is of of rather rather
poor poor quality, quality, but but it it is is used used in in the the
distillation distillation of ofbrandy. brandy. FONDANT FONDAl'I'T - See See ICING.
ICING.

FOLLE-BLANCIiEFOLLE-BLANCHE - Name Name of ofa a vine vine bearing bearing white

white grapes, grapes,

FONDANTS FONDANTS (Croquettes) (Croquettes) - See See HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-

D'ŒUVRE, ,F/or Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre.

FOhID-DF-PLAT FOND-DE-PLAT- French French term Lerm for for an an oval oval or or
round round piece piece of ofwood wood which which is is placed placed on on the
the bottom bottom of ofa a plate plate to to form fODn a a raised raised base base
for for cold cold dishes. dishes.
384 384
FONDUE
you. 'Take a piece of of good Gruyère Gruydre weighing a third and butter a sixth
of the weight of the eggs. weighing a 'Break the eggs and beat them weil well in a
casserole. Add the butter and the grated cheese. 'Put the casserole on a a hot
stove stove and and stir with a a wooden spoon until mixture has has suitably
suitably thickened spoon until the the mixture thickened and and is any salt, salt,
depending on smooth. Add a a very little or hardly any age of the cheese. Add a a
good portion of pepper, which the age is one of the the distinguishing
distinguishing characteristics of this this ancient is one dish. Serve on a a
lightly heated dish.' Chervil tuber fondue. FoNDUE fuber fondue. DE CERFEUIL
Chervil FONDUE DE cERFEUTL TUBÉREUX rusfnBux same as Celery fondue. Prepared in the
sa me way as fondue. FoNDUE D'ENDIVES fondue. FONDUE D'ENDIVES Cook finely Chicory
fondue. Cook finely minced chicory gently in butter in a a covered pan. Season.
chicory Season. Tlis fon&te as a a garnish for egg egg and fish dishes fondue is is
served as This well as cuts cuts of meat and poultry, and and vegetable vegetable
dishes. as weil Fennel tuber tuber fondue. fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE DE FENoUIL
TUBÉREUX Fennel DE FENO~ rus6neux Prepared and used in the same way as fondue. and
used as Celery fondue. poIREAUx - Shred or cut into fine FoNDUE DE POIREAUX Leek
fondue. FONDUE and cook gently in butter until slices the white part of leeks and
Season. very soft. Season. Used in in sauces, sauces, stuffings, stuffings, and and
stews, or as as a a garnish for Used fistr, meat, poultry, and vegetables. eggs,
fish, FoNDUE AUX AUx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNsMushroom fondue. FONDUE - Mince the
mushrooms, bind with cream, and and brown in in the oven. Oniqr fondue. FONDUE
FoNDUE D'oIGNoNs Cook finely chopped Onion D'OIGNONS - Cook gently in pan without
covered pan in butter in a a covered without allowing onions gently prevent the
them to to col colour. To prevent the on them our. To ions becoming becoming fried,
onions moisten them from from time to time with water or stock. Season. Season.
fondue. FoNDUE D'oSEILLE in the same Sorrel fondue. FONDUE D'OSEILLE - Prepared in
Sorrel chiffonnade chffinnade (see CHIFFONNADE). CHIFFONNADE). way as SO/Tel

Cheese fondue

a very nourishing nourishing dish.' fondue for four persons. It is a fondue

Neuchdtel fondue The Neuchâtel fondue has has Gruyère Gruydre cheese as a basis.
For as a and fresh cheese are mixed. this dish stale and fondue II tr (Brillat-
Savarin). FoNDLTE AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAGE Cheese Cheese fondue @rittat-Savarin).
FONDUE gives to BRILLAT-SAvARIN This is name BRILLAT-SAVARIN me the is the the na
the author gives to a - This dish of scrambled eggs with cheese in in his his book
Physiologie Physiologie dish a translationof translation of the original recipe. du
go,At. goût. The following is a 'Recipe of fondue M. TroUet's Trollet's papers. as
found found in in M. fondue as papers. He 'Recipe was bailiff bailiff of Mondon in
the Canton of Berne. you want which you use. This 'Weigh the the number of eggs
which to use. want to number depends on how many people are going to eat with

;:
t

t^

rt',€ .. f'-i;i*y' ,,f

r,'r!*".

.i* ;,t' r,/ :i,, r'i:' l;,i.!"#'

Equipment for Swiss fondue (Nicolas) Equipment

385
FONTAINEBLEAU FO NT AINE BLEA U
It is is used used in in thick thick and and thin garnish for thin soups, soups,
and as a and as for eggs, a garnish ft eggs, small cuts poultry. cuts of of meat,
meat, and and poullry. small pepper fondue. Sweet pepper fondue. FONDUE FoNDrrE DE
DE PIMENTS rMENTS DOUX Doux -- Cook Sweet Cook finely chopped peppers gently gently
in chopped sweet sweet peppers in butter butter or or oil oil until until soft.
Season. soft. in hot hot and and cold cold sauces, Use in sauces, in in dit'l'erent
different kinds kinds of of stuffings, stuffings, Use with soft soft eggs, eggs, in
in omelettes, omelettes, with with bot hot or or cold cold fish, fish, with wîth
with shellfish, meat, meat, poultry, and and vegelables. vegetables. shellfish,
Tomato fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE DE DE TOMA ToMATES Cook 1 I chopped chopped Tomato TES
.- Cook onion in in butter butter or or in in a a butter butter and and oil oil
mixture. mixture. When onlon When the the onions begin peeled, seeded, begin to to
colour, colour, add add 6 6 peeled, seeded, and and chopped chopped onions
tomatoes. Season pepper. Add Season with with salt salt and grated clove and
pepper. Add 1 I grated clove lomatoes. garlic. Cook of garlic. Cook gently \lnlil
until the the liquid liquid of of the the tomatoes tomatoes has of almost
disappeared. Add Add t tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. almost + tablespoon
Tomato fondue is is used for many many dishes, used for dishes, mainly mainly for
for those Tomato provengale, à d la la provençale, portugaise, or d la la
portugaise, or à d la la madrilène. madrildne.It is used usod as à It is as garnish
for a garnish for eggs, eggs, and and fOf for vegetables such such as as mushrooms,
a small vegetable marrows, aubergines, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, etc.
smaU etc. oil, and and chilled, chilled, tomato fondue Îs is onen often used When
made with oil, preparation of in the the preparation of cold cold hors-d'œuvre.
hors-d'euvre. in
panada should The The panada should not not be be added added to to the the
forecemeat forecemeat or or stuffing stuffing until until it it is is completely
completely cold. cold. To To speed speed up up the the cooJing cooling process,
spread process, spread ouI out the the forcemeal forcemeat on on a a buttered
buttered dish. dish. Coyer Cover prevent a with with buttered buttered paper ta to
prevenl a crus! crust forming forming through preparation of various panadas
exposure exposure to to the the air. For For the the preparation ofvarious see see
PANADA. PANADA.

FONTAINEBLEAU-- Town Town weil well known in thegastronomic the gastronomic

FONTAINEBLEAU because of ilS grapes, whÎch its famous grapes, which are are found
found in world because in and and (see GRAPES), near Thomery Thomery (see GRAPES),
and and also also because because of its near its suc.succream cheese, cheese,
which which is is eaten eaten as as a dessert. culent cream
See CHEESE. FONTINA - See

PROCESSOR powerful time-saving appliance FOOD PROCE.."SOR FOOD - A powerful

operated by e1eclricity electricity and equipped with a variety of cutting operated
gadgets for pur6eing, emulsifying, chopping, slicing, shredding, and and whipping.
Originated in France under ding, under the trade name of of Cuisinart, simîlar
processors are similar food food processors name are now manufactured in England,
Germany, and Ihe the United States. pur6e. Fruit of aimosi FOOL almost any variety
is is cooked FOOL - Fruit purée. with very little and passed through a fine sieve.
a fine sieve. The licHe water warer and passed through with pulp is and kept cool
is sugared and Whipped - on ice if possible. Whipped to l, 1, mixed cream is added
to the pulp in the proportion of 2 [0 and served served in sherbet glasses. gently
and (Wine) FORCE FORCE (Wine) French term lerm for incompletely incomplelely
fermented fermeOled - French wine to develop a in small reinforced reinforced casks
10 'sparkle' wine kept in a .sparkle, just as Champagne wine develops develops it
in bottles. boules. just as

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or MADE WITH OT STUFFINGS STUFFINGS MADE BEEF, WITH BEEF,
VEAL, VEAL, PORK, AND POULTRY. FARcES DE DE PORK, GAME, GAME, AND POULTRY. FARCES
CHAIR CHAIR DE DE VEAU, VEAU, DE DE PORC, PORC, DE DE GlBlER, GIBIER, DE DE
VOLAILLE VOLAILLE -_ pouR LES Beet' Beef forcemeat forcemeat for for agnolotti.
agnolotti. FARCE FARCE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF POUR LEs g. (18 (18 oz.) AGNOLOTIl
AGNoLorrI -- This This forcemeat forcemeat is is made made of of 500 500 g. oz.)
beef beef braised in red red wine. wine. braised in When ove the remove When
completely completely cooked, cooked, rem the beef, beef, chop, chop, and and (9
oz.) g. (9 add add 10 to il it 250 250 g. oz.) cabbage, cabbage, chopped and and
braised, braised, and and 50 (2 oz., g.Q grated Parmesan cheese. Season 50 g. oz.,
t cup) grated with salt, salt, Season wîth I cup) pepper, and and spices. sauce in
Strain the the sauce in which which the beef was was braised, braised, and and use
use il it for for serving agnolotti. serving with agnololtÎ. Chicken forceneat.
FARCE FARCE DE DE VOLAILLEChicken (or other poultry) forcemeat. VoLAILLE (see
below) like Veal Veal and pork forcemeat Prepare like below) using using the
forcemeat (see (or other following ingredienls: 250 g. ingredients: 250 chicken (or
e. (9 Q oz.) chicken poultry meat, pigeon, duck, guinea-fowl), meat, such such as
as turkey, turkey, pigeon, (4 oz") (4 oz.) pork. g. (4 g. (4 pork, 450 g. (lIb.) (l
lb.) fresh oz.) lean veal, 100 100 g. 100 g. 450 g. 2 eggs, l+ dl. bacon, bacon,2
dl. (+ pint, t cup) brandy and and 5 5 teaspoons J cup) Spiced salr (see SALT).
prepared using This forcemeat can can also also be be prepared only the using only
the meat of fowl fowl and and fresh fresh bacon. Forccmcat pfltes and galantines,
pâtés potted preparations. preparations. Forcemeat for for galantines, and poUet:!
pouR GALANl1NES, pAr6s, TERR1NES FARCE FARCE 1'00JR. GALANTINES, PÂTÉs, TERRINES
Inl1r1-"fI./pnl'.L 250 g. veal, 500 (9 oz.) lean (18 oz.) fresh g. (9
Ingredients.250 lean veal, 500 g. (18 fresh tab1espoons Spiced (see SALT), pork
fat, 2 eggs, 2 2 tablespoons Spiced salt (see brandy. 1+ dl. (+ pint, J cup)
brandy. Me/hod. Dice the veal, veal, pork, and pork fat and pound in în a Method.
with the the seasoning and Add the mortar with and brandy. the eggs eggs and
brandy. Add mix weIl. well. Rub Ihrough through a fine sieve. Slir Stir until very
smooth. FARCE DE GIBlERS - Prepare Prepare like Chicken Game forcemeat. forcemeat.
FARcE GIBTERs like Chicken (or other poultry)forcemeat,replacing chicken chickeo by
game meat. meal. aoo potted preparations. FARCE Gamc forcemeat for plt6s pâtés and
Game pArEs ET DE GIBIER poun POUR PÂTÉS ET TERRTNES TERRINES - Using whatever game
is indicated in the the recipe, recipe, proceed proceed as as for for Chicken
indicaled in Chickm (or other poultry) poul/TY) forcemeat. forcemeal. To To render
render this this stuffing stuffing more more delicate, delicate, the the trimmings
of freshfoie iL It ft can a Iso be enriched by the fresh foie gras are added to it.
also à gratin game game stuffing swjjing (see (see below) be!ow) and addition of d
addition and Game fumet (see FUMET). A gratin calves' ulves' Iiver liver forcemeat
for borders borders and and hot pfftds. pâtés. FARcE FARCE A À cR,lrnq GRAnN DE DE
ForE FOlE DE DE vEAU VEAU poLJR POUR BoRDUREs BORDURES ET pAres PÂTÉS

FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS or STUFFINGS. rlncps FARCES - Forcemeats or stuffings,

stuffings, which which are are a a mixture mixture of ingredients ingredienl~
minced minced or chopped chopped and and spiced, spiced, are are among among the
the preparations preparations most cooking. They are often from charin cooking.
They are often made made from charwidely used used in cuterie, ell/erie, and and
are are used used in pdtis, pâtés, potted pattee! preparations, preparations,
galantines, and sluft' or garnish eggs, fish, poultry, poultry, and ballottines,
ballottines, to stuff game, game, meat, meal, vegetables, etc. Forcemeats making of
of forcemeat farcemeat balls, balls, Forcemeats are are also used in the making
borders, mousses, moulds, moulds, etc. Forcemeats Forcemeats or or stuffings
sluffings can be be made made with or or without meat, meal, though all al! of of
them them derive derive from 5 5 basic forcemeats. forcemeats. These are: l. Pork
forcemeat. forcemeal. 2. Yeal Veal and and fat fal forcemeat, forcemeat, known
known as as godiveau. godiveau, 3. Fine Fine forcemeat, forcemeat, with with cream.
cream. 4. Forcemeat made of special ingredients, with with or or without without
made of meat. meal. 5. 5. it à gratin gratin forcemeat. forcemeat. Forcemeats
various by the the addition of ofvarious Forcemeats are are given given substance
substance by panadas panadas (see below). below). Most forcemeats meal, poultry,
poultry. or game, are forcemealS made made of meat, bound bound with wilh eggs.
Panada Panada for for forcemeats or sfuffings. stuffings. nANADE PANADE -
Preparation Preparation made bread, usually usually boiled boiJed in in water,
water, made with with various variolls flours or bread, milk, forcemeats. milk, or
or stock, and and used used to to bind bind stuffings or forcemeats. Panadas 2
parts Panadas are are added added to to stuffings in in the the proportion
proportion of of2 parts basic basÎc ingredients ingredients to 10 I 1 part part
panada.
386 386

Ingredienls. 300 g. g. (ll (lI oz.) trimmed calves' livers, 250 g. Ingredients.300
(9 (9 oz.) fat fat belly belly of pork, pork, 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., 3 cups)
CUPS) mushroom mushroom peelings, peelings, 50 e.Q g. (2 oz., I ±cup) chopped
shallots, 150 g. (5 oz., oz." generous generous * -t cup) cUP) butter, butter, 4
teaspoons leaspoons salt, I 1 teaspoon 1",,,~nr'l""In pepper, j~ teaspoon teaspoon
ground cloves, cloyes, a a small smaU sprig of thyme, * bay leaf,ll leaf, Ji dl. $
(t pint, pint, 3 cup) white white wine, 3 egg yolks. Method. Method. Brown Brown
the the diced diced belly of pork in 50 g. g. (2 oz., în the the butter. Remove the
pork from the the pan, pan, and, in i cup) butter. bro'k'T1 very very quickly the
the diced calves' calves' liver. liver. Put same butter, brown the diced diced pork
pork back back in in the the pan. pan Add Add the the mushroom musbroom peelings
peelings the and shallots, sballols, seasoning seasonÎng and spices. Saut6 Sauté
the the mixture mixture on a a and of the the very hot hot flame Rame for for 2 2
minutes. minutes. Take the the calves' calves' liver liver out out of very pan.
pan. Dilute Dilute the the juices juices with wilh the the white white wine, wine,
boil boil down down and and add add to the the liver. liver. Pound Pound in in a
mortar, mortar, adding adding the the rest rest of of the Ihe butter buller to aod
the tbe egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix well. weil. Rub Rub through Ihrough a a
sieve. Mix Mix with with and it is is very very smooth. smooth. a wooden wooden
spoon spoon until uotiJ it a The is added added to lo forcemeats forcemeats for
pdtds pâtés and and potted polted The mixture mixlure is products. Il is is also
also used used in in the the preparation preparation of of borders borders and and
products. It poultry or game game moulds. moulds. Truffie Tmffle peelings peelings
may may be be added added to to poultry or

_ CHAVDSCHAUDS

t
FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS
this this forcemeat forcemeat and and pounded pounded with with the the calves'
calves' liver. liver. A A little little concentrated concentrated Espagnole
Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UeE) can can also also be be
added. added.

À gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat for for canap6s canapés and and croiitons.
croûtons. re.ncs FARCE A À cRATTN GRATIN pouR POUR cANApEs CANAPÉS ET cno0roNs
CROÛTONS - Heat Heat in ill a pan pan 150 150 g. g.

(5 (5 oz.) oz.) grated grated fresh fresh pork pork fat. fat. When When it it is is
very very hot, hot, put put in in I oz.) 300 g. (l (II oz.) trimmed trimmed chicken
chicken livers, livers, 15 15 e. g. G (! oz., OZ., 2 2 table300 g. spoons) spoons)
chopped shallots, 25 25 g. (l (l oz., oz., I 1 cup) mushroom mushroom

rr

poultry, poultry, boned boned and and trimmed, trimmed, with with all aU gristle
gristle and and tendons tendons removed, removed, 400 400 g. g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.)
Bread Bread panadn panada (see (see PANADA), PANADA), 4 4 egg It litres litres (2f
(21 pints, pints, 3| 3± pints) pints) double double cream, cream, I1 egg whites,
whites, l!

Panada Pana da forcemeat forcemeat with wilfl cream cream (fine). (fine). rencr
FARCE (nNr) (FINE) A À r,l LA eANADE PANADE rr ET A À LA cnirraE CRÈME -
Ingredienls. Ingredients. 1 kg. kg. (2+ (2± lb.) lb.) veal veal or or

peelings, peelings, a a sprig of of thyme, thyme, L buy bay leaf. Icaf. Season
Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and a little spice. spice. Brown
the the livers livers quickly over a a hot flame flame to to seal them. [hem. very
hot very Leave Leave to to cool. Pound Pound in in a mortar mortar and and rub rub
through through a a sieve, sieve, or or reduce reduce to to a a pur6e purée in III
an an electric electric blender. blender. Keep Keep in in an earthenware container
in in a a cool cool place, place, and and cover cover with buttered buttered paper.
paper. Prepared in in this this way, way, the the forcemeat will will keep keep for
for several several days. It is spread on the the crottons croûtons of of fried
bread bread which are used used as salmis as a base base for small roast game
birds, or served with salmis and civets. civets. A À gratin game game forcemeat.
FARcr FARCE A À cnern GRATIN DE DE cIBIER GIBIER Proceed Proceed as as for for A À
gratin gratin calves' ca/ves' liver /iver forcemeal, forcemeal, using using the
following ingredients:: following ingredients g. of game, 250 g. 250 g. (9 (9 oz.)
oz.) livers livers of of various various types types of game, 100 100 g. (9 oz.)
young rabbit meat, 50 g. g. (4 oz.) belly of pork, 250 g. (9 g. (1 (2 oz.) foie
gras, gras, 25 25 g. oz., 2 tablespoons) butter, 3 egg (2 oz) foie 0 o2.,2 (se SA
Game SAUCE) yolks, sauce (see Espagnole sauce UeE) made made with with Came yolks,
Espagnole (see f'UVnT), fumet (see FUMET), seasoning and and spices as as for for A
À gratin gralin fumet (6 tablespoons, seant! scant 1 cup) .up) dl. (6 calves'
forcemeat, I 1 dl. calves' liver forcemeat, Madeira. Madeira. gratin purposes as as
A This stuffing stuffing is is used used for for the the same purposes À gratin for
hot is especially especially used liver forcemeat. forcemeal. lt lt is used for hot
pdtds pâtés calves' calves' /iver and game pies. and currN os gratin poultry
forcemeat. r.lncs À poultry liver liver forcemeat, FARCE A À GRATIN DE A gratin
gratin ca/yesO liver calves' /iver for A as for À gratin FOIES DE VOLAILLE Proceed
as FoIEs DE VoLAILLE - Proeeed quantity of of trirruned trimmed an equal equal
quantity substituting an forcemeat, substituting forcemeat, for pdtis used for This
is is used livers. This poultry calves' Iivers. livers for for the the calves'
poultry Iivers pâtés preparations. and potted preparations. and MoUssELINE DITE
MOUSSELINE A LA rl CREME, cRirrar, DITE FARCE À forcemeat. FARCE Mousseline
forcemeat. Mousseline poultry, or game, (2+ lb.) or game, veal, poultry, lb.) boned
boned veal, Ingredienls. 1 I kg. kg. (2;j- Ingredients. 4 egg egg removed, 4 etc.
removed, tendons, etc. with aU all gristle, tendons, trimmed and with trimmed and 3
(2f pints, pints) thick fresh cream, cream, 3 thick fresh pints, }1 3f pints) 1|
litres litres (2i whites, li whites, teaspoon white pepper. teaspoons salt, i I
teaspoon Season. Add finely in in a a mortar. mortar. Season. Pound the the meat
meat finely Method. Pound i'vfethod. pounding weIl. through well. Rub through a
time, time, pounding little at at a whites a a Iittle the egg whites Keep it it
spoon. Keep a wooden wooden spoon. with a vigorously with sieve. Stir Stir
vigorously a a fine fine sieve. cream a hours. Then Then add add the the cream a
possible, for for 2 2 hours. cool, on on iee ice if if possible, cool, on iee ice
if possible. stirring weIl, well, on little at at a a time, time, stirring little
mousselines. mousses and and mousselines. balls, mousses for fine fine forcemeat
forcemeat balls, Use Use for p.l,N.c,oE ET AU Er Ali A LA rn PANADE FARCE À with
butter. butter. FARCE forcemeat witll Panada Pana da forcemeat (2+ lb.) poultry,
bOlled boned veal or or pouItry, I kg. kg. (2t lb.) veal BEURRE -- Ingredients.
Ingredienls. 1 BEURRE g. gristle and removed, 500 500 g. and tendons tendons
removed, all gristle with ail and and trimmed, trimmed, with (18 oz., 4 whole whole
eggs, eggs, (18 Ol.) panada, 500 oz.,2f,cups) 500 g. oz.) panada, (18 2* cups)
butter, 4 e. (l8 pinch pepper, pinch white pepper, yolks, 2 salt, j teaspoon
teaspoon white 2 teaspoons 8 yolks, teaspoons salt, 8 grated nutmeg. nutmeg. grated
mortar with with poultry. Pound in a a mortar Pound in veal or or poultry. Method.
Diee Dice the the veal Method. panada. put in the panada. in the the mortar mortar
and and put Take out out of of the seasoning. Take seasolling. pound vigorously.
vigorously. the meat meat and and pound Add butter. butter. Put Put back back the
Add yolks, one Rub the the forceforcetime. Rub one al at a a time. the yolks, Add
the the eggs eggs and and the Add wooden spoon spoon well with with a a wooden Work
weil fine sieve. sieve. Work meat through through a a fine meat in an an may be be
made made in This forcemeat forcemeat may very smooth. smooth. This untiI until
very blender. electric blender. electric to moulds, and to borders, mou balls,
borders, for forcemeat forcemeat balls, It is is used used for 1t Ids, and poultry,
etc. stuff poultry, etc. stuff plNlnn (game). FARCE A LA r,c, PANADE FARcE À butter
(game). with butter forcemeat with Panada forcemeat Panada (crnrrn) -- Proceed
above recipe recipe for the the above as for Proceed as Er Ali AU BEURRE BEURRE
(GIBIER) ET game. trimmed game. boned and and trimmed using using boned moulds,
borders, mou for forcemeat forcemeat balls, balls, borders, This stuffing stuffing
is is used used for This Ids, game birds. stuff game birds. and 10 to sluff and

teaspoon teaspoon salt, sail, jt teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper,
pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the meat
meat or or poultry poultry with with the the seasoning seasoning and and the the
egg egg whites, whites, adding adding a a little little at at a a time. time. Add
Add the the panada. panada. Pound Pound vigorously vigorously until until the the
ingredients ingredients are are thoroughly thoroughly mixed. mixed. Rub througha
through a fine fine sieve. steve. Keep Keep on on ice iee for for I 1 hour. hour.
Add, Add, a a little little at a a time, time, a a third third of of the the cream,
cream, stirring stirring with with a a wooden wooden spoon. Add the the rest rest
of of the the cream, cream, partly partly whipped. whipped. This This forcemeat
forcemeat may may be be prepared prepared in in an an electric electric blender
blender and and is used used for for fine fine forcemeat forcemeat balls. balls.
Forcemeat Forcemeat for for pAt6 pâté of of foie foie gras gras or or potted potted
foie foie gras. gras. FARCE FARCE poun POUR pAri PÂTÉ ouTERRINE OUTERRINE DE DE
FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS - Ingredients. Ingredients. 375 375 g. g. (13 (13 oz.) lean
pork, pork, 450 450 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) lb.) fresh fresh pork pork fat, fat, 250 250
g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) gras, 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons Spiced Spiced salt salt (see
(sec SALT), SAL Tl, 1 1 dl. dl. fresh foie gras, (6 1 cup) (6 tablespoons, scant
scant1 cup) brandy. brandy. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the meats meats finely
finely in in a a mortar. mortar. Add Add the the seasoning and seasoning and the
the brandy. brandy. Rub Rub through through a a sieve. sieve. pEnIGouRDINE - Make
P6rigourdine FARCE PER IGOURDINE Make with with Périgourdine forcemeat. forcemeat.
rlnct chopped breadcrumbs breadcmmbs steeped in in clear clear soup soup or or
milk, milk, and and chopped or pork chopped ham fresh fresb pork pork or chopped
ham or pork fat. fat. Add Add chopped chopped parsley parsley salt, pepper, egg
yolks. and garlic garlic and bind with with egg yolks. Season Season with with
salt, peppcr, cabbage leaves, spices. Wrap and and spiees. Wrap in in white white
cabbage leaves. cabbage, rolled The The stuffed cabbage, rolled into into a a large
large ball, baIl, is is wrapped wrapped (U.S. cheesecloth) and braised.
cheesecloth) and in muslin (U.s. braised. chicken' stuff pot-roasted is also also
used This forcemeat lIsed to to stuff pot-roasted chicken. This forcemeal is are
added added to of the The liver liver and blood blood of the chicken chicken are ta
it. il. with PoRc DE PORC fine. FARcE Pork forcemeat, Pork forcemeat, fine. FARCE
FINE FINE DE Make with - Make as Pork pork fat same way fat in pork and in the the
same lean pork and pork way as Pork forcemeat, lean sieve. a sieve. (see below) and
rub rub the ordinary (sec ordinary below) and the mixture mixture through through a
forcemeat. purposes as as ordinary ordinary pork same purposes for the same It is
is used used for Jt pork forcemeat. A SAUCISSESsluclssrs DITE CHAIR FARcE DITE
cHAIR À ordinary. FARCE Pork forcemea! Pork forcemeat, ordinary. pork pork and and
pork lean pork quantities of finely minced of finely Mix equal equal quantities Mix
minced Iean (see SAL SALT). sa# (see fat. Season with Spiced salt Season with fat.
Tl. etc. vegetables, etc. stuffed vegetablcs, sausages, stu/fed for crépinelles,
cripinettes, sausages, Used for Used potted preparatiollS. preparations. pflt6s and
and potted for pâtés forcemeat for Poultry forcemeal Poultry pAr6s ET Ingredients.
Br TERRINES TERRINEs PouR PÂTÉS voLAILLE POlIR FARcE DE DE VOLAILLE - Ingredients.
FARCE (2 lb.) g. (2 lb.) fresh fresh veal, 900 900 g. oz.) veal, g. (li lb.)
poultry, poultry, 200 2A0 g. 575 g. 575 (7 oz.) e.Q (see solt (see Spiced salt g.
(2 3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Spiced oz., 3 pork fat, 50 g. fat, 3 3 eggs, eggs,
50 Q oz., pork generous cup) (scant I plllt, pint, generous brandy. cup) brandy. 2f
dl. dl. (scant SALT), 21 SALT), mortar in a finely in a mortar fat. Pound Pound
finely poultry, veal, veal, and and fat. Dice the the poultry. Dice Mix weil. well.
the brandy. brandy' Mix eggs and and the Add the the eggs the seasoning. seasoning.
Add with the a sieve. sieve. Rub th through Rub rough a poultry. FARCE FARcE roast
poultry. poached, braiscd, or roast braised' or for poacbcd, Forcemeat for
Forcemeat pocuEES, BRAISÉES, pouR VOLAILLES This stuffing stuffing is is n6nrs --
This uteIsErs, RÔTIES vot,Alrrns POCHÉES, POUR parsley with chopped chopped parsley
meat, with sausage meat, made with with sausage usually made usually slowly in in
butter butter cookod slowly onion, cooked chopped onion, Sometimes chopped added.
Sometimes added. added. are added. soft, and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are very
soft, until very until Dice poultry. FARCE FARcE TRlIFFÉE rnurr6n - Diee for
truffled trufled pooltry. Forcemeat for Forcemeat gras. (9 oz.) g. (9 raw foie pork
fat oz.) raw fat and and 250 250 g. lb.) fresh fresh pork I kg. ke. (2i foie gras.
1 Qi lb.) g' to peelings from to from 800 800 g. cleaned peelings the cleaned Add
the mortar. Add in a a mortaL Pound in pepper, and and a with salt, salt, pepper, a
(11 lb Season with truffies. Season lb to Ztlb.) to 2* I kg. kg. (Il 1 lb.)
truffies. take it it is very very smooth, smooth, take mixture is pinch of the
mixture spices. When When the of spices. pinch gently over low fla flame. a very
very low over a cook gcntly and cook mortar and out of of the the mortar out me.
fine sieve. sieve. a fine Rub through through a Rub (18 oz.) Add ta to it it fat.
Add g. (18 truffied fal. of this this truffied oz.) of 500 g. melt 500 Slowly melt
SIowly as inin(the peelings peelings having been used, used, as having been peeled
truffies truffies (the the peeled Ihe quartered if if large large or or pork fat),
fat), quartered the pork flavour the to flavour dicated above, above, to dicated
powdered thyme, pepper, powdered thyme, salt, pepper, with salt, Season with if
smalt small. Seasoll whole if whole Leave to 10 10 minutes. minutes. Leave heat for
for 8 8 to a low low heat on a leaf. Poach Poach on and bay bay Ieaf. and quite
cold, cold, add add they are are quite When Ihey covered. When cool, covered. to
cool, the truffies trufres 10 the mix and mix pork fat. Add a a little little
brandy brandy and fat. Add the pork rest of of the to the the rest them to them

(I±

thoroughly. thoroughly. A A LA u GRAISSE, curssn, À rlncs À A GODfVEAU coorveau À

I. FARCE forcemeat I. Quenelle Qlrenelle forcemeat
387 387
FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS
LA GLACE cLAcE -- Ingredients. Ingredienls. 1 (2+ lb.) I kg. kg. (2~ lb.) lean lean
veal gristle veal wilh with grislle LA g. (18 (18 oz.) and tendons tendons removed,
removed, 500 500 g. oz.) well-dried well-dried beef beef suet, suet, and 8 whole
whole eggs, eggs, 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, l teaspoon pepper, teaspoon
white white pepper, 8 pinch graled grated nulmeg, g. (I~ (lt lb.) nutmeg, 800 800
g. lb.) chopped chopped ice, ice, or or failing failing pinch (l+ pints, pints, li
this, 7 7 dl. dl. (I~ pints) iced lj pinls) iced water. water. tbis, Mince the
Method. Mince the veal veal and and the the suet suet separately. separately. Add
Add the the Melhod. seasoning. Still keeping Ihem Still keeping pound Ihe thern
separate, separate, pound the veal veal and and seasoning. the suet. suet. Then
Then put put them them together together and pound 10 and pound paste. to a a fine
fine pas the te. Add the the eggs, pounding. Rub eggs, one one by by one, one,
still still pounding. Rub through through a a Add fine sieve. sieve. Spread Spread
the mixture out plate, and the mixture out on on a a plaIe, and leave leave it it
on on fine ice tiU till the the next next day. day. ice Pound the the stuffing
stuffing once once more more in in the the mortar, mortar, adding adding the the
Pound ice, broken broken into pieces and into small small pieees put in gradually.
Mix and put in gradually. Mix weIl. well. ice, Test the the foreemeat forcemeat by
poaching a by poaehing piece. Add a small small piece. Add a little a little Test
iced water water if if il it is is too too firm; firm; a a little little white
white of if too of egg egg if too soft. soft. iced This stuffing stuffing is is
made made inlo into forcemeat forcemeat balls balls which which are are served
served This pies, or invol-au-venf garnish large or pies, or used used to to
garnish large cuts cuts ofmeat of meat or or vol-au-vent or in poultry. poultry.
II. FARŒ forcemeat II. rancs À A GODIVEAU coorvsA.u À A LA ra CRÈME cnirr,m
Quenelle foreemeat Quenelle Ingredimts. 1 I kg. kg. (2;;' lb.) trimmed trimmed noix
noix or or loin loin 'of bf veal, veal, 1 I kg. kg. Qi lb.) Ingredients. (2* lb.)
lb.) beef beef suet, suet, 4 4 whole yolks, 7 whole eggs, eggs, 3 3 yolks, pinti, 7
dl. dl. (1 ~ pints, (2~ pints) fresh lf pints) fresh cream, cream, 4 4 teaspoons
teaspoons salt, pepper, salt, 1 1 teaspoon teaspoon pepper, l! pinch nutmeg.
nutmeg. pinch Method. Pound Pound the the chopped chopped veal veal and and suet
suet in in a mortar a mortar Melhod. separately, then then mix mix them. them. Add
Add the the seasoning, seasoning, the the eggs eggs and and separately, yolks, one
one by one, mixing mixing vigorously. vigorously. Rub Rub through through a a fine
fine yolks, by one, sieve and and spread spread il it out out weIl well on on a a
board. board. Leave Leave on on ice ice until until sieve the next next day. day.
the Pound the the sluffing stuffing ouce once more more in in the the mortar,
mortar, adding adding the the Pound cream a a [itUe little at at a a time. time.
cream Test the as indicated in the the preceding recipe, Test the forcemeat
forccrneat as indicated in preeeding recipe, adjusting the the consislency
consistenry if if necessary. This forcemeat is adjusting necessary. This forcemeat
is used in same way way as as Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat used in the the same
forcemeal I. l. forcemeat balls. A GODIVEAU coorwau These balls Quenelle forcemeat
Quenelle balls, runcr FARŒ À balls - These can be a forcing-bag, are usually can be
piped piped through through a forcing-bag, but but they they are usually rolled by
and poached salt water. rolled by hand hand and poached in in salt water. They can
also They can also be be poached poached dry, dry, as as follows: follows: Pipe
onto buttered Pipe the the forcemeat forcemeat through through a a forcing-bag
forcing-bag onlo buttered paper sheet. Put paper laid laid on on a a buttered
buttered baking baking sheet. Put the the balls balls fairly fairly close Cook in 8
minutes. close together. together. Cook in a a moderate moderate oven oven for for
7 7 to to 8 minutes. When When little liule pinkish pinkish beads beads of of fat
fat begin begin to to appear appear on on the the surface, surface, the the balls
balls are are ready. ready. Take Take them them out out of of the the oven. oyen.
Overturn Overtum on on a a board board or or marble marble slab, slab, peel peel
off oIf the the paper, paper, holding holding it il at at one one corner. corner.
Use Use as as required. required. Verl Veal forcemeat foreemeat for for borderg
bord ers, large large strfred stulJed forcemeat forcemeal ballg balls, lininEs
linings (for (for the the presentatim presentation of of hot hot entrees).
entrées). FARcE FARCE DE DE vEAU VEAU poLJR BoRDURES, cRossns euENELrss rounnfts,
FoNDs DE POUR BORDURES, GROSSES QUENELLES FOURRÉES, FONDS DE pLAr - Ingredients. I
kg. (2t lb.) lean veal, 300 g. PLAT - Ingredients. l kg. (2;\ lb.) lean veal, 300
g. (Il oz.) oz.) Flour Flour panada panada (see (see PANADA), PANADA), 5 5 whole
whole eggs, eggs, 8 8 yolks, yolks, l! 1~ dl. dl. cold Bichamel Gl (;\- pint,3
pint,! cup) cup) very very thick, thick, cold Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAU-
E), SAUCE), 3 3 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, I teaspoon teaspoon white white
pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nulmeg. Method. Method. Pound
Pound the the veal veal finely finely in in a a mortar mortar with with seasoning.
seasoning. Take Take it it out out of of the the mortar rnortar and and put put the
the panada panada in in its ils place. place. Pound Pound until until it it is is
very very creamy. creamy. Add Add the the veal vea] and and pound pound thoroughly.
thoroughly. Add Add the the eggs eggs and and yolks, yolks, one one at at a a time,
time, then then the the bichamel béchamel sauce. sauce. Rub Rub through through a a
sieve. sieve. Work Work with with a a spatula spatula until it is until it is very
very smooth. smoolh. veal Veal and and port pork forcemat. foreemea!. FARCE FARCE
DE DE VEAU VEAU ET ET DE DE PORC PORC Chop Chop 300 300 g. g. (11 (Il oz.) oz.)
round round of of veal, veal, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) lean lean pork pork and
and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) fresh fresh fat fat bacon. bacon. Pound Pound
together together in in a a mortar, mortar, add add 2 2 whole whole eggs eggs and
and I 1 dl. dl. (6 salt (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant I t cup) cup)
brandy, brandy, season season with with Spiced Spiced salt (see (see SALT) SALT)
and and rub rub through through a a sieve. sieve. Anchovy foreemeat forremeat J. f.
FARCE r.lnce AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Make Make aa white white Anchovy roux of I
tablespoon of 1 tablespoon buller butter and and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons fioul.
flour. Moisten Moisten roux (6 tablespoons, with 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant
scant !cup) boiling milk. milk. Cook Cook for for with I cup) boiling a few few
minutes minutes over over a very hot hot fla a very flame, stirring with with a a
wooden wooden a me, stirring spoon. When When very very thiek, thick, remove remove
from from the the stove. stove. spoon. Add 1 yolks, and I whole whole egg, eEE,2
and the the filJets fillets of of 4 4 desalted desalted Add 2 yolks, anchovies. Rub
Rub through through a fine sieve. a fine sieve. Cook Cook for for a a few few
seconds, seconds, anchovies. stirring. Rub Rub through through a a fine fine sieve.
sieve. stirring. This stuffing stuffing is is used used as filling for as a a
filling for savoury savoury tarts, tarts, dartois, Thil; dartois, pdtis, pies,
pies, etc. small pâlés, etc. small (Car6me's recipe). Anchovy forcemeat forcemeat
II, tr. (Carême's FARcE D'ANCHOIS recipe). FARŒ D'ANcHors Anchovy 'Soak 275 g. (10
(10 oz.) 275 g. oz.) anehovies anchovies to to remove remove the the salt; salt;
c1ean clean -" - 'Soak and bone bone them. them. Toss Toss for (4 oz., for 2 2
minutes minutes in g. (4 in 100 100 g. oz.,1c.rp) and t cup) seasoned with butter,
seasoned with 2 (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fines
butter, fines pinch of herbes, a a pinch of nutmeg, nutmeg, and (see and a a very
very little little Spiced Spiced salt sclt (see herbes, SALT). SALT). 'When the the
mixture mixture is is cold, pound the eold, pound the fillets fillets of of anchovy
anchovy 'When (6 oz.) g. (6 with 175 panada (see 175 g. (see PANADA). Add oz.)
Bread panada Add the with the cooking butter butter with with the thefines herbes.
Pound Pound Ihis this mixture mixture for for cooking fines herbes. (4 oz., g. (4 5
minutes, add add 100 100 g. (crayfish butter oz.,l cup) butter (crayfish 5 t cup)
butter or or some other yolks. Mix other kind) kind) and and 3 3 egg egg yolks. Mix
weIl.' well.' sorne This mixture mixture is is used used mostly mostly for for
stuffing stuffing large large fish. fish. It It can This can also be be used used
ta to stuft' stuff vegetables, vegetables, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts,
mushmushalso rooms, tomatoes, tomatoes, etc. etc. to to provide a a Lenten dish.
rooms, Freshwater crayfish crayfiS forcemeal. forcemeat. FARCE FARcE D'ÉCREVISSES
o'fcnsvlssns Fresbwater Proceed as for Prawn or shrimp forcemeat (see as for (see
below). Procecd Cream fisb fsh forcemeat forcemeat (L~mten), (Lenten). FARCE
(r,r.llcnu) FARcE À A LA rn CRÈME cnirr,m (MAIGRE) Cream Proceed as as indicated
indicated for for veal poultry Mousseline veal or or poultry Mousseline - Proceed
fish instead instead of rneal. meat. Pike, whiting, or sorne forcemeat, using fish
some other suitable suitable fish may be used. other porssoN Fish foreemeat
forcemeat l. I. FARCE Elncr DE I kg. Fish DE POISSON Ingredients. 1 - Ingrediens.
(2+ lb.) lb.) pike other white-fleshed g. (14 fish), 400 4gp g. oi.) (2t pike (or
(or other whitc-fieshed fish), Oa oz.) Frangipane panada (see
PANADA), 4 or Rice 4 egg panada or Riœ panada panada (see whites, 4 4 teaspoons
salt, L I teaspoon pepper and and a a small whites, teaspoons salt, pinch grated
nutmeg. of grated pinch of Method. as Quenelle Melhod. Prepare as j'orcemeal IL li.
Quenelle forcemeat FiS Fish forcemeat tr. FARcE FARCE DE porssoN POISSON - Chop
finely 300 g. (ll g. (7 (7 oz.,3l (lI oz.) whiting whiting or or other white fish.
fish. Add 200 200 g. oz., 3t cups) soaked in cups) breadcrumbs, soaked in milk milk
and and squeezed, squeezcd, 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., i t cup) butter, butter, I 1
tablespoon choppod chopped blanched chives, chivei, I Season with salt, 1
tablespoon tablespoon chopped chervil chervil and parsley. parsley. Season pepper,
pepper, and nutmeg. nutrneg. Bind with 2 eggs. eggs. Mix thoroughly. Mousseline
Mousseline forcemeat for for fr$ fisil nousses mousses and and mousselines.
mousselines. FARCE FARCE MOUS$LINE MOUSSELINE POIjR POUR MOUSSES MOUSSES ET ET
MOUSSELINES MOUSSELINES DE DE polssoNs lb.) skinned and boned POISSONS -
Ingredients. Ingredients. I 1 kg. (2+ (2ilb.) boned pike, whiting, whiting, sole,
sole, salmon, or or trout, trout, 4 egg whites, whites, lf li litres (2{ (2;\pints,
pints, 2f; 2~ pints) pints) fresh fresh cream, cream, lf lt teaspoons salt, j t
teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg.
nutrneg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the fish fish in in a mortar mortar with
the the seasoning. seasoning. Add Add the the egg egg whites, whites, a a little
little at at a a time. time. Rub the mixture through through a fine fine sieve.
Stir on ice ice until until very very smooth smooth and and leave leave on on the
the ice ice for for 2 2 hours. hours. Add Add the the cream, cream, a little little
at a a time, time, stirring stirring gently gently with with a spatula. spatula.
This This mixture mixture is is used used for for light light fish fish quenelles,
quenelles, mousses, mousses, and and mousselines, mousselines, and also also for
for stuffing stuffiug large large braised braised fish. fish. Panada Panada
forcemeat forcemeat with with butter butter @enten). (Lenten). M,ncs FARCE A À r,c,
LA IANADE PANADE ET ET AU AU BEURRE BEURRE (rrHrcnr) (MAIGRE) - Proceed Proceed as
as for for veal veal or or chicken chicken Panadaforcemeat Panadtlforcemeat with
wilh butter butter using using pike, pike, whiting, whiling, or or some sorne other
other suitable suitable fish. fish. This This is is used uscd for for plain plain
fish fish quenelles, quenelles, borders, borders, moulds, rnoulds, and and for for
stuffing stuffing large large fish. fish. Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat for for
fi$ fisil and and shelffish sbellfisb mtltrsses. mousses. FARcE FARCE por.JR
MoussEs DE porssoNs E'r DE cRusrAcfs (A u rlNlon) POUR MOUSSES DE POISSONS ET DE
CRUSTACÈS (À LA PANADE)Proceod Proceed as as for for Mousseline Mousseline
forcemeat forcemeat for for fish fish mousses, mousses, using using the following
ingredients: (2* I kg. lb.) boned and skinned the following ingredients: 1 kg. (2~
lb.) boned and skinned fish, fish, 450 450 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) lb.) Frangipane
Frangipane panada panada (see (see PANADA), PANA DA), 4 4 egg lt litres litres (2|
(2~ pints, pints, 3f 3± pints) pinls) cream, eream, salt, salt, pepper, pepper, egg
whites, whites, l| grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg.

(l|

n.

(ll

I
-

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or or STUFFINGS STUFFINGS MADE MADE WITH WITH FISH. FISH.
FARCES FARCES DB DE PorssoNs. POISSONS, cnusmc6s: CRUSTACÉS:

388 388
HAM FORELEG FORELEGHAM
The Tbe addition addition of of the the panada panada to to this this forcemeat
forcemeat gives gives it it body, body, but but makes makes it il less less
delicate in flavour. ftavour. It is is used used for the the same purposes as
Moasseline forcemeat for fish mousses. Pickled herring or sardine forremeat. FARcE
DE HARENGS Use fillets sAURs, DE SARDTNEs fiJJels of of pickled herring or
f()rt~pm'p{}/ L l. sardines, as for Anchovy forcemeat la lyonnaise, or Pike
forcemeat or fuiveau GOOiveau lyonnaise. lyo!lllaÎse. FARCE FARCE DE DE BRoCHET
BROCHET A À Ln LA rvor.rNArsn, LYONNAISE, DITE GoDTvEAU GODIVEAU LyoNLYONNAIsE
NAISE - Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz.) skinned and boned pike, pike,
500 g. (18 oz.) trimmed and and minced mînced beef beef suet, 500 g. (18 oz.)
teaFrangipane Fran.gipane panada (see (see PANADA) PANADA) 4 egg egg whites,
whites, Zf, 2± teaspoons salt, f; teaspoon pepper, pinch nutmeg. Method. Melhod.
Pound the fat, the panada, and the egg whites in a mortar. morlar. Add the pike and
the seasoning. Work the stuffing stuffing vigorously Vl""H'''''''V with with the
the pestle. pestle. Rub Rub through a a fine tine sieve sieve and work with a a
spatula until the mixture is very smooth. An An electric blender can be used. This
This forcemeat forcemeat is is used used for for large large fish fish balls balls
known known as quenelles lyonnaises. To make these, these. shape the forcemeat in a
a spoon and poach in salt water. Simmer for l0 10 minutes in În with them, the
served with the sauce sauce to to be be served them, usually usually a a meatless
(se SAUCE) containing mushrooms, Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (sec SAUCE)
containing stoned olives, olives, truffies, truffles, and other small delicacies.
sauce such with a a thick are served with When pike quenelles are thiek sauce When
other white as Nantua, lobster, shrimp, white whÎte wine or any olher as shellfisfu
they sauce suitable for fish and shellfish, they should simply be poached drainrng
and and drying them in salt water. After poacherl in salt Afler draining in a
artichoke on artichoke on bread cloth, serve serve them cloth. them on bread fried
fried in in butter, bUller, on with the sauce cover wlth hearts, or on flaky
pastry. Garnish, and cover indicated indicated in the Ihe selected recipe. DE
CREVETTES cREvETTES forcemeat. FARCE Prawn or shrimp forccmeat. FARCE DE - Pound (4
oz., with g. (4 or shrimps with o2.,3 in a mortar 100 100 g. prawns or in a mortar
"up) to sieve. Add 10 g. ( through a fine (4 oz., I t cup) butter. butter. Rub fine
sieve. 100 g. of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, of yolks of its volume volume of
this mixture half its well. sieve. Mix weil. rubbed through lhrough a tine sieve. a
fine hors-d'euvre. This mixture is used for cold hors-d'œuvre. FrNE DE DE
CRUSTAcF.S cnusuc6s fine. FARCE rlncs FINE Shellfish forcemeat, Bne. Shelffish
cream forcemeat, indicated for shellfish, as as indicated using shellfish, A LA
r,c, CRÈME cRit'fi - Proceed, Proceed, using À for Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat
for for jish ftsh mousses. used for for quenelles. This is used
vated vated mu$room$ mushrooms, moreb morels., St. St. Goorge's mushroong etc.
FARCE fARCE DE DE cHAMpIcNoNS CHAMPIGNONS DIvERs DIVERS - Proceed, using using one
one or or other of of these these fungi, first first tossed tosscd in in butter,
butter, as as for for Truffie Trulfle jorcemeal (see below). These These forcemeats
are are usd used in in the forcemeat
same same way way as as truffie trume forcemeat. forcemeaL Garlic forcemeat
forcemeat - See GARLIC. GARLlC. Raviofi Ravioll forcemeat forcemeat - See RAVIOLI.
RA VIOU.

Sage and onion oniOIl forcemeat forcemeat @ngli$ (English cookery). r'rlRcE FARΠA
À LA LA sAUcE SAUGE - Used Used to stuff stutr poultry, especially duck duck and
and goose. goose. Bake Bake 2 large onions in their skins in the oven. oven. Leave
Leave to to cool. Skin and chop them. Mix Mil< with with 150 1 g. (5 (5 o2.,2| oz.,
2! cups) breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, which which have been dipped dappe<! in milk
milk and squeezed, and 150 150 g. (5 (5 oz.) cooked and chopped beef beef suet.
suet. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped chopped sage, sage,
season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and and mix

thoroughly. Trufle forcemeat lorCernejlt (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). FARcE FARCE

Aux AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES 'Chop 'Chop 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) black truffies, trumes,
and toss them for for a a few (4 oz., i with Spiced Spiced minutes minutes in 100
g. (4 ~ c,rp) butter butter seasoned seasoned with (see SALT) and a touch of
nutmeg. Drain salt (see Drain the trufles truffles on 75 e.Q aplate, andpound a and
g. (3 oz.) Breadpanada(sePANADA). Breadpanada(see: PANADA). 'When the trufres in
the mortar HUmes are cold, cold, put put thern tbem in mOrlar and pound a few pound
them with with the the panada panada for for a few minutes. Add Add the cooked, and
butter butter in in which the the truffies truffies were were cooked, and pound
pound totogether Mix in smooth. Mix gether until untiJ the mixture is is perfectly
perfectly smooth. in 3 egg yolks.' yolks.' and winged used for This forcemeat is
This is used for stuffing stuffing poultry poultry and is also also used game, and
and for for meat meal or fish paupiettes paupielle.ç (q.v.). (q.v.). It It îs in
various various hot pdtis. plah. for vegetables (various). FARcE poun r,6cuurs
SfutrngF for Sruffings Used to stuff stuff vegetables such as aubergines, small
vegetable vegelable artichoke zucchini), tomatoes, marrows (courgettes marrows
(courgettes or or zucchini), tomatoes, artichoke hearts, a thickened hearts, etc.
elc. It Il is is really really a thickened Duxelles Duxelles sauce (see of the the
vegetables, the pulp of which is added the SAUCE) to SAUCE) to which is addcd oil.
scooped out after they have beentcooked in oi!. DE JAUNES D'oEUFsCold. Rub Rub
JAUNES D'OEUFS Yolk of egg stuffing. FARcE fARCE DE - Cold. sieve. Add Add a fine
fine sieve. yolks of through a l0 hard-boiled eggs through the yolks of 10 paste.
Season with g. (4 (4 oz., t a paste. with to a butter softened to 100 g. * cup)
butter pepper, and mix. salt and white pepper, salt mix. hors-d'ouvre, especially
especially spread in in co cold This is is used used as as a a spread This Id hors-
d'œuvre,
(see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold horsrusse (see it la la russe for Canapds à
for halvod hard-boiJerl hard-boiled for halved used as as filling for d'euvre\. It
is is also also used d'œuvre). tartlets barquettes or or t.artlets hearts, and and
small barque/les eggs, artichoke artichoke hearts, eggs, garnishes wiÙ1 dishes.
served as with cold dîshes. as garnishes yolks of a sieve. hard-boiled eggs through
a of hard-boiled .F/ot. Rub the the yolks HOI. Rub thick Bichamel sauce of thick
half Iheir their weight of Mix with with half Season. Mix Season. passed through
(see SA a fine sieve. through a SAUCE) (sec UCE) passed prehard-boiled eggs to fill
fill hard-boile<! eggs preThis stuffing is use<! used mainly mainly to stuffing îs
This pared au gratin (see EGGS, Eggs A teaspoon d la la Chimay). Chimay). A ou
gratin pared Eggs à parsley is It is is added. added. It chopped parsley and
ehopped of dry dry duxelles duxelles (q.v.) and of with which are are then then
sprinkled with also used used to to stuff vegetables which also and browned, and
melted butter butter and with melted breadcrumbs, basted with tartlets, etc.
barquettes, tartlets, etc. to 611 fill small small vol-au-vent, barquelles, ta

STUFFINGS. or STUFFINGS. FORCEMEATS or MISCELLANEOUS FORCEMEATS FARCES

DlVERSESDIVERSES _ FARCES OFFAL VARIETY MEATS. forcemeat Brain forcemeaf FF AL or V
A RlETY M EA TS. - See 0 pouR POISSONS polssoNs - Soak Soak 250 250 g. r.lnct POUR
Forcemeat for for ftsh, fish. FARCE Forcemeat (9 oz., them. milk and and squeeze
squeeze them. in milk o2.,4| cups) cups) breadcrumbs in (9 g. (3 (3 oz., chopped
cup) finely finely ehopped Add 75 75 g. o2.,1 Beat in in a a bowl. Beat %cup) bowl.
Add (l oz., g. (1 soft, 25 25 g. in buller until very soft, butter untiJ onion,
cooked cooked slowly in onion, the white wine wine until until aH all Ihe cooked in
in white shallot, cooked c,rp) chopped shallot, i* cup) g. (4 OZ., chopped raw
o2.,2 moisture has evaporated, 100 g. 2 cups) chopped (or 3 tab1espoons tablespoons
have been been squeezed squeezed (or mushrooms, which have (scant t cup) chopped
tablespoon chopped duxelles), and 1 tablespoou cup) dry dry duxelles) (seant , and
pepper, parsley. Bind with salt, salt, pepper, Season with whole eggs. Bind with 2
whole eggs. Season parsley. with 2 and grated nutmeg. and forcefor which which the
the forcethe dish dish for According to of the Ac,.:,orOWlg to the nature of garlic
may added. may be be added. a toueh touch of garlic meat is is to to be used, used,
a potssoNs À poun POISSONS A fish. FARŒ rmcr POlJ'R Forcemeat Forceneat à la la
provengale for Ilsb. (4 oz., g. (4 I cup) finely oz., 1 100 g. Cook slowly slowly
100 LA pRovENgALE (* cup) very cup) oit oil until very 4 tablespoons in 4
tablespoons (1 chopped onions ln garlic and g. and 150 150 g. chopped clove of
garlic Add a a finely finely chopped clove of tender. Add (5 oz., a few few for a
raw mushrooms. Brown Brown for oz.,2f cups) chopped chopped raw (5 2{- cups)
seconds. seconds. g. (9 oz., pan from 250 g. from the the stove stove and and add
add 250 Remove the the pan Remove grated breadcrumbs, 1 I tablespoon chopped
4{ cups) freshly freshly grated 4! parsley and and chervil, and 3 chives,
tablespoon chopped parsley tablespoon chopped chives, hard-boiled eggs. eggs.
chopped hard-boiled chopped salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Season Season witb
with salt, Forcemeat of of various fungi and mushrooms, cipes, cultiForCêmeat

41

growing vegetablcs vegetables and and of growing Process of FORCING. FoRgAcE -

Process glass in order ripen them them before before their their time. time. to
ripen fruit under glass order to fruit 'forced'products. called 'forced' These
products are are then then called These products. fruits and and vegetables is is
these fruits The distinguishing quality of these The price. Good cooks seldom buy
Good cooks their rarity and their high priee. theu proper season. products in
iniheir season. them, preferring to use these products their proper
PocIrE - Funnel-shapep FORCINC-BAG (U.S. Pastry-bag). POCHEFORCING-BAG (French
douilles) of nozzles (French bag which which cau can be fitted with nozzles bag
with made with These nozzles nozzles are are made sizes. Thes.e different shapes
shapes and and sizes. different plain or or fluted, fluted, so so which can can be
be plain apertures which large or or sm small large ail apertures piped in in a a
wide wide range range of of be piped can be mixtures can that creamy mixtures that
decorative designs.

The French French word word TAMBoNNEAU HAM. JAMBONNEAU FORELEG HAM. FORELEG The
389 389
FORESTIERE FORESTIÈRE (A (À LA)
jambonneau which is is sometimes sometimes translated as as foreleg ham, ham, or
picnic picnic ham in the U.S.A., refers to the portion below the ham and hind legs
legs of the pig. pig. (See harn or shoulder of both fore and HAM.) HAM.)
QUATRE EptcssÉPICES - A much used mixture, for FOUR SPICES. SPICES. euArRE which,
purveyor had a which, formerly, each purveyor formula. The a special formula. most
usual is the following: following: (* oz.) powdered cloyes, 125 e. g. g (4 oz.)
white pepper, l0 10 e. g. (t n5 cloves, (generous I (l oz.) ginger, 35 g. 30 g. (1
g. (generous 1 oz.) grated nutmeg.

fOnfSffDRE FORESTIÈRE (A (À LA) (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)

Method of preparation of smalJ small cuts of meat and poultry, garnished ofmeat
garnished with with morels, morels, lean larding bacon bacon cut in large large
pieces, and diced potatoes fried in butter. butter.
FOR](, FouRcHErrE FOURCHETTE - Table utensil utensil designed designed to to pick
up FORK meat food. It It is is of very very ancient ancient origin origin as as it
is meat and and other food.
mentioned in the Old Testament. It was first used used as a ritual instrument to to
grip grip pieces pieces of meat meat destined for for sacrifices; sacrifices; later
it was used in the kitchen. kitchen. According to the eleventh eleventh century
Italian Italian scholar, Damiani, Damiani, forks forks were introduced introduced
into century Byzantine princess and thence spread through Venice by a Byzantine
Italy. They are mentiond mentioned in in 1379 1379 in in an an inventory of the
French king, king, Charles Charles V; V; and and Edward Edward II II of of
England's England's French favourite, favourite, Piers Gaveston, Gaveston, is
recorded recorded as having having eaten a pear pear the early fourteenth
fourteenth century. century. However, eating with a fork in the not become
fashionable fashionable until until the the sevensevenwith forks forks did did not
with century. teenth centurv.

FOUR YELLOW YELLOW FRUITS. FRUITS F'OUR FRUITS. QUATRE euArRE FRUrrs Oranges,
lemons, lemons, bitter bitter oranges, and citrons. citrons. Oranges,

JAUNES TAUNBS -

FOX. nsxlno RENARD - Animal Animal ranking as vermin. Its flesh f1esh is very tough
and with an extremely unpleasant 'wild' taste, but it tough eaten after the the
animal animal has has been been skinned and is sometimes eaten f1esh soaked in
running water or boiling water. the flesh - See COOKERY, WINE. FRANCE See
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, FRANCHE-COMTÉ FRANCHF-COMTE - Mountainous region in the
western part of the Belfort Gap, surrounded surrounded by regions regions abundant
in edible products products and famous famous wines. In edible ln the north are
Lorraine inc1uding the Bugey, which and Alsace; in the south Savoy, including a
great centre of fine fine cuisine. To west it borders on is a To the west Bresse,
and and Champagne. To the east Burgundy, Bresse, To the east its its immediate
neighbour neighbour is Switzerland. The mediate The geographical position of
Franche-Comt6 Franche-Comté has influenced its inhabitants inhabitants to be great
of gastronomes. gastronomes. A variety of excellent foods is produced in this
province. Franche-Comté and the Jura, the beef beef cattle are famous In Franche-
Comt6 their well-flavoured well-f1avoured meat and and high-quality milk, milk,
from for their cheese and and other other dairy dairy products products are are
made. made. In In the which cheese orchards of Franche-Comt6, Franche-Comté,
excellent excellent fruit, fruit, particularly particularly orchards an abundant
stone fruit, is grown. This part of France has an variety of of game. In the
rivers, streams, streams, and ponds, ponds, numerous variety quantities. The
inhabitants in habitants kinds of fish are found in great quantities. cook them
them in in delicious delicious ways, ways, notably in in succulent stews. cook
stews. red mullet, pike Known for their delicacy are Saulon carp, red Doubs and and
Dessoubs Dessoubs trout, trout, and and Breuchin Breuchin from Ognon, Ognon, Doubs
from trout the the flesh f1esh of which is is very well weil flavoured. f1avoured.
In salmon trout Breuchin there there are also good crayfish. the Breuchin Franche-
Comté include inc1ude Septmoncel, Septmoncel, which which Chee ses from Franche-
Comtd Cheeses knowledgeable people consider a rival to Roquefort, some
knowledgeable Comté cheese, which is a kind of Gruydre, Gruyère, Fromagdre,
Fromagère, and Comt6 Fromage fort. Fromage

dfl

Renaissance forks

-In the seventeenth seventeenth century, century, use use of the the fork, which
was
originally two-pronged, two-pronged, then three-pronged, and later la ter
fouroriginally pronged, pronged, spread spread from from Italy Italy and and Spain
Spain into into France France and England. England. An English English traveller
named Thomas Thomas Coryate is bringing the the use use of the the fork to England
after a credited with bringing trip to 1608. to Italy in 1608. While in Paris in in
1612, Coryate Coryate remarked that the the fork While was though not yet amongst
the the comwas used used in good society, though mon people. H6rouard Hérouard in
the Journal Journal of of Louis Louis XIZ XIV speaks speaks mon of the the Dauphin
beating beating the the table table with his his fork and spoon. spoon. of Modern
forks forks are made made in in many sizes and and many metals, metals, as Modern
as to to the weil as as in plastics plastics and and woods. woods. Etiquette varies
as well proper proper way of of holding holding and using using a fork, and in
which hand. FORK LUNCIIEON. LUNCHEON. orretrNm. DÉJEUNER A Àu LA rouncHErrE
FOURCHETTE - A meal meal FORK taken towards towards the middle middle of of the the
day. day. FOUNT AIN. roxrl'trqs FONTAINE - Term Term employed in pastry-making
pastry-making FOUNTAIN. to describe describe placing placing flour f10ur on the the
board board in a circle. circle. to various ingredients ingredients used used to to
make make the the pastry pastry are then then The various placed placed inside
inside the'fountain'. the 'fountain'.

FOURDERAINE - Home-made Home-made liqueur which used used to to be be FOURDERAIhIE

common in in the the north north of of Franoe France and is still sometimes
sometimes found common there. The hedge hedge sloes used in making making it are
picked picked after after the the there. is prepared in in the the first frost,
frost, when when they they are are ripe. This This liqueur liqueur is first same
way as as cassis. cassis. s:!me FOURME - See See CHEESE. CHEESE. FOURME

FOUR FOUR MENDICANTS. MENDICANTS. euArRE QUATRE MENDTANTs MENDIANTS - Dessert

Dessert made made up up of figs, figs, raisins, raisins. hazelnuts, hazelnuts, and
and almonds, whose whose
colours of the the four four mendicant mendicant Orders. colours recall recall
those those of

FOUR RED RED FRUITS. FRUITS. eu.rrnr QUATRE FRUrrs FRUITS RoucEs ROUGES berries,
cherries, cherries, redcurrants redcurrants and and raspberries. raspberries.
berries,

StrawStrawFranche-Comté (French (French Government Government Tourist Tourisi

Office) Office) Franche-Comt6

390 390
FRANCHE-COMTE FRANCHE-COMTl
~

Vineyards

-fA
'.

ALSACE LORR..AIN,E ALSACE E R....AI t irsch r' / ...... fi^li -rt", Trout. S Loup t
_) .... ~ '. a^t= -^Lttt".
f' ,
_1 "

: UPPER
~,Id

Pike. Motelote of fish Snails. fimbole graYloise

W':#**lffjr:k
Ô
uq
.... P -kebsoh ~al Wl,h melon or utC er'l~~; ,.J Car.w.y"u"ge Villafans Game pâté •
Pikc quenelles

<1'

V) ~I

ONE Lure: S,,-

S x[gffi;.Qarbe's ilc,$~ llXeuil / ;§>~$ r 'Meliso/

Troul. Crayfish, \\ oFouqefolle.s.-Foug olles_ ..chicken Chlcken with with m morel'

Crayfish,

'OreUCl)in~ Barbel,
Bilberry j.m

-...-==='--/-"0

'f", "0'

St. Rémy chee se

Montbozon

9rry ^.t'q Lgi"LNbiisE

:f;s """HF;;*;:ffi_/
r

L'

a:Jfles

and Goufres

( I;

|-arilut.oqer.4fe'/f.lMontgesqe_
plgeon pdtC, Malakofr

Ornan-s .
Pickles

H'i"'
rout,
(0

,_

Mushrooms

crème
r

_1

...

..

Ch~teau-C

\wlnes

H.6; ,/\

Po n t af n- e{ jnest. Gru

! u'"ri"Id.il,i2.,^ ";l \ a ,{
.

nd

^"9 ,3' Win-*"nt lto 9Qe {i' Prcktes 991,. { Trout. CraYfish I
rrieo ctr rctln, Omelerte ou klisch

cing"rlie-aa

on toart
c7-

Lons-lej-S
Barquette of \
duck', Ilver Hot pigeon Sweetbre.d morels

t,

SWITZERLAND

\tr \,

SAVOY SAVOY
of Frar.che-Comte Franche-Comt6 Gastronomic map map or Gastronomie

the specialities specialities among the Foremost among Cutinary specialities

specialities CuJinary - Foremost prepared is prepared potie franc-comlOise, which
is porridge, pOlée are maize maize porridge, are franc-comtoise, which has Morteau
Morteau (q.v.) from but has potie (q.v.) other regions regions but from other like
pOlée Iike panada, a like a a dish like a dish leg soup; soup; panada, to il; it;
frog's sausage added added to sausage frog's leg pulp; cherry soup; cherry soup; a
pulp; boiled to to a and butter butter boiled soup with with bread bread and soup
vegetables. fresh vegetables. soups made made with with fresh range of of soups and
a a whole whole range and and can can be be Franche-Comt6 and in Franche-Comté All
charculerie charcuterie is is excellent excellent in Ail It includes includes large
towns. towns. Il many other other large in Paris and many bought in Paris and
bought kinds of of different kinds from Luxeuil; Luxeuil; different ham, mainly
mainly l'rom smoked ham, smoked and Montbozon; and from Montbozon; sausage from
sausages including including caraway caraway sausage sausages Besangon. stufed
lOngue tongue from from Besançon, slUffed found in in Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6
dishes to to be be round The most most làmous famous dishes The or red red white or
fish with with white from freshwater freshwater fish stews made made from are fish
are fish Slews very in wine, cooked very wine, cooked herbs; meal meat braised
braised in wine, onions onions and and herbs; wine, juices; preserve ail all the
the meat meat juices; to preserve casserole to slowly in in aa covered covered
casserole slowly jugged hare hare à d /a la fi'anc-comlOise; pike quenelles
quenelles of of Vesoul; Vesoul; jugged pike franc-comtoise;
391 391

gratin; cheese an gralin; cheese pain d'écrivisses; marrow au d'ioivisses; marrow

cheese fondue; cheese fondue; pain pancakes called called onion /Ourle; tourte;
pancakes potatoes; morels toast: onion morels on on loasl; po/alOes,' specially
cheese tart tart specially ramekins ; frillers; matefaim ; rumekins; male/àim;
flamus se, cheese frit ter s : flamusse, and made with with eggs eggs and flat
bread bread made siche, flat made Ln in Burgundy; Burgundy; sèche, made pastry and
and almond pas/l'y Baume-les-Dames; a/mond of Baume-les-Dames; sugar; craquelins
craquelins of sugar; malakof of of Montb6liard; malakoff viques of of Montbéliard;
Montbozon; viques biscuits of of Montbozon; bL5cuils galette de goumeau of of
Saint-Amour; Saint-Amour; quiche com/Oise; de goumeau comtoise; ga/elle DOle;
quiche Dôle; chestnut of Baume-les-Dames; Baume-les-Dames; ches/nu/ gaufres de de
chanoinesses chanoinesses of gaufres paste made from made from Dole; pas/e pain
d'épice Vercel and and Dole; of Vercel d'dpice of cakes; pain cakes;
andwhortlebilberry and quinces growing growing in Baumeles-Dames; bilberry in
Baume-les-Dames; quinces who rllejam l'rom Melisey. from Melisey. berry jam berry
(and particularly particularly Franche-Comt6 (and Wines and and liqueurs liqueurs
-- Franche-Comté Wines produces white, red, red, and and excellent white, Jura)
prod of Jura) the déparlemenl dipartemmt of uces excellent the yellow wine, wine,
which which the celebrated celebrated yellow not to to mention mention the ros6
wines, wines, not rosé (vins de paille) de paille) and s!raw straw wines wines
(vins region, and is a speciality of of the the region, a speciality is and
Hermitage, Hermitage. Jura and which are find outside outside Jura are difficu]!
difficult to to find which
FRANCILLON SALAD SALAD FRANCILLON
yellow wine The yellow wineis ismade made from fromthe grape.The theSavagnin
Savagningrape. The The distinctive nutty f1avour jaune) demands (gotit de
flavour(goût dejaune) demands strictly strictly distinctive nutty controlled and
highly specialisod methods of vinification. controlled and highly specialised
methods of vinification. fermentation, and conservation. conservation.The The best
yellow wine best yellow wine is is fermentation, and that of Chfl teau-Chalon. tha!
of Château-Chalon. Straw wine wine is isso-called so-called because grapes are
because the the grapes aresun-dried sundried Straw on straw mats mats before
pressed. before being being pressed. on straw The Jura appellations
appellationsare: are: The Jura Yellow wines. wines. Arbois, Arbois, Côtes C6tes du
du Jura, Jura, Château-Chalon, Chdteau-Chalon, Yel/ow Etoile. Étoile. Straw wines.
wines. Arbois, Cdtes du Jura, Etoile. Straw Arbois, Côtes du Jura, Étoile. Red and
rosi wines. Arbois. C6tes du Jura. Red and rosé wines. Arbois, Côtes du Jura. While
wines. Arbois, C6tes du Jura, Etoile. White wines. Arbois, Côtes du Jura, Étoile.
Some well-known well-known liqueurs liqueurs are are also also made made in in
FrancheFrancheSorne Comt6. The The kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly well
known. Comté. kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly weU known.
Since 1888, 1888, various various laws laws have havedefined defined the
thercpression repression of Since of fraudulent practices practices in in the the
marketing marketing of goods. Acts of goods. Acts and and fraudulent decreeshave
have been, been, and and continue continue to passed to to be protect be passed to
protect decrees drink and produce. and food food produce. drink In France, France,
from from the the Middle Middle Ages Ages onwards, quality and onwards, quality and
ln quantity were were under understrict strict surveillance. surveillance. River
ports, markets, River ports, markets, quantity and shops shops were wereail
allcontrolled. controlled. Thus Thus in in 1577 1577 Henri Henri III III ordered
ordered and all bakers bakers to pair of to keep keep aa pair of scales scales and
and legitimate legitimate weights weights in in ail their windows, windows,
workrooms, workrooms, and and carts, carts,50 so that that each each eus customer
theu tomer might check check the the weight weight of his bread of his bread
himself. himself. ln ln the rhe eigheighmight teenth century, century, the the
Police Police Code Code added that the addod that thescales scales had had to to
teenth be hung hung sufficiently sufficiently high high to preclude the to preclude
possibility of the possibility of the the be seller tipping tipping it it with with
rus his thumb. thumb. seller Fraudulent practices were severely reprimanded: were
severely reprimanded : penalties penalties Fra udulent practices included the the
confiscation confiscation of goods, demolition of goods, demolition of of ovens,
ovens, a a included fine or or an an amende amende honorable, honorable, and, and,
in in the Middle Ages, the Middle Ages, fine public flogging. flogging. public In
1431, 1431, if if aa cookshop proprietor sold cookshop proprietor sold a a cat cat
for for a a rabbit, rabbit, ln he was was condemned condemned to go to to go to the
the banks banks of of the the Seine Seine in in the the he part of busiest part of
the the day day and and shout shout an an apology apology to to the the crowd crowd
busiest while throwing throwing the the offending offending cat cat into the the
river. river. The The butchers butchers while were forbidden forbidden to pigs
nourished to buy buy pigs nourished on human blood. on human blood. It It were was
forbidden forbidden to to sell sell reheated reheated meat, meat, to keep meal to
keep meat more more than than was two days days in in win winter and one one and
and a a half days days in in summer, summer, to two ter and sell meat meat by by
lamplight lamplight or or candlelight candlelight (such (such Iights lights made
made it it sell easier for for discoloured, putrid meal discoloured, putrid passed
off as meat to to be be passed as rosy easier and fresh). fresh). A A regulation
regulation in in 1399 1399 controlled controlled the the time time of of day day
and during which which candies candles might might be used. during On22 June 1351
l35l sorne some suspect meat was confiscated confiscated in Ihe the On 22 June
master butcher Bardel's shop in in rue Baudet-Saint-Antoine. mas ter butcher
Bardel's shop Baudet-Saint-Antoine. The Corporation, Corporation, outraged outraged
that one of of their members The that one their members should disgraced himself,
demanded thal that he he be shou Id have have disgraced himself, demanded be
condemned. He accused as demned. He was was accused as a poisoner poisoner and was
taken to the pillory in Les subsequently put to death. pillory in Les Halleswhere
Halles where he he was was subsequently paris butchers One hundred One hundred and
and twenty-seven twenty-seven bareheaded bareheaded Paris witnessod execution of
witnessed the the execution of their their confrire. confrère.

IilUUYCIIr.ON SALAn SALN) - Title Title of of a a Japanese Japanese. salad, salad,

the the FRANCILLON recipe for given by for which which was younger Alexandre was
given by the the younger Alexandre recipe Dumas in play Francillon in a performed
at a play Francillon perfonned at the the ComédieCom6dieDumas Francaise. The The
recipe recipe for for this potatoes, this salad, salad, of of mussels, mussels,
potatoes, Francaise. and truffies, trufres, will will be be found found under under
SALAD. SALAD. and FRANCOLIN - Wild Wild bird bird resembling resembling a
partridge, found a partridge, found in in FRANCOLIN wann countries, especially in
Sicily and Greece. Its flavour warm countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Ils
f1avour is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared is something
like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared in the same same way. in the way.

of salt. salt. a pinch of Method. sugar, sieved Melhod. Put Put the the sugar,
sieved flour, Hour, and and salt salt into into a a heaw heavy saucepan with a flat
bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and
yolks. Mix all the ingredients ail the ingredients thoroughly thoroughly and and
add add the the milk milk very very gradugradually.. Cook slowly, stirring all the
time, for 2 to 3 minutes. ally. Cook slowly, stirring ail the lime, for 2 to 3
minutes. Add the butter and the crushed Add the butter and the crushed macaroons.
macaroons. Mix. Mix. FRANKENTAL grape Black also known as FRANKENT AL - Black grape
also known as Black Black HamHampurg, and burg, originating originating in in
Germany. Germany. The The fruit fruit is is very very large juicy, and is often
included in gift baskets of fruit. large and juicy, and is often included in gift
baskets of fruit. FRASCATI - See }'RASCATISee RESTAURANTS RESTA URANTS OF OF BycONE
BYGONE DAYS. DA YS.

FRANGIPANE Mixture of of flour, flour, egg yolks, butter, egg yolks, butter, and
and FRANGIPANE - Mixture milk, which which is (cream puB) is cooked cooked like
like a pvfr) pastry. a chou chou (cream milk, paslry. Used in poultry and fish
forcemeat. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. FRANGIPANE CREAM Cream used
preparation in the the preparation - Cream FRANGIPANE CREA.c'\1 used in of
different different desserts desserts or or sweets sweets and and cakes, cakes,
made made like of like French French pastry uearn (see CREAM). pastry creonl (see
CREAM). Ingredients. g. (9 generous 250 oz., cup) sugar, g. 250 g. Ingredients. 250
g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar, 250 (9. o2.,2| c3ns) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs ind
8 egg yolki, (9 oz., 2:\: cups) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs and 8 egg yolks, (2|
pints, 3f pints) lf litres pints) milk and flavou-rd If litres (2l pints, :Ji milk
boiled boiled and flavoured with with vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz.,
crrp) butter, vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., t cup) butter,
a pinch

ITREEZINGFREEZING See See PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FRENCH CULINARY FRENCH

CULINARY AND AND TABLE TABLE SLANG. SLANG, ARGoT ARGOT

(A LA) FRASCATI FRASCATI (À tA) - Garnish Garnish for for meat meat dishes dishes
with with consists consists of of thin thin slices sUces of/ole of foie gras, gras,
asparagus asparagus tips, tips, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and (See GARNISHES.)
truffies. trumes. (See GARNISHES.) Deception Deception in in the the manufacture
manufacture and and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and sale of
food products. Fraud occurs when the type and origin of the product food origin of
the food product does does not not correspond correspond to to the the name name
under which it is sold (for example, pdte de foie gras conunder which il is sold
(for example, pâte de foie gras containing other than goose or duck liver) or when
the quantity taining other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity goods is
not of of goods is not as as specified. specified. (See (See also also
ADULTERATION) ADULTERATION.) Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has
Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has always been the duty of the
authorities to try to uncover it always been the dut y of the authorities to try to
uncover it and stamp it out. and stamp it out. When When the the corporations
corporations were were in in command command and free trade did not exist, the
legislator at that time had no and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that
time had no scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to
scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to preventive measures.
All secret work was forbidden and preventive measures. Ali secret work was
forbidden and consequently all night work was forbidden. Itwas forbidden
consequently ail night work was forbidden. Il was forbidden to keep variety of
products in the same shop. Distinctive to keep a a variety of products in the same
shop. Distinctive trademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manutrademarks
and certain symbols were compulsory on manufactured products. Offendcrs were
factured products. Offenders were severely severely punished. punished.
FRAUDE ALMENTATRE FRAUDE ALIMENTAIRE -

FRAUDULENT FRAUDù'LENT MISREPRESENTATION MlSREPRESENTATION OF OF F'OOD. FOOD,

collection collection of of non-technical non-technicaJ spoken words that appeal to

to a a social group. The The group group - corporative, corporative, schoolboy,
schoolboy, fashionfashionsocial group. able able society society - is, is, he he
specifies, specifies, a more more or or less less coherent one. one, adding,
adding, 'Slang 'Slang varies varies from from profession profession to to
profession'. profession'. It It is is therefore therefore only only right right and
and fitting fiuing that that the the culinary culinary proprofession fession should
should have have its ils own own brand brand of of slang. slang. The The table
table is is la la carante. caran te. Then Then the the food, food, in in other
other words words /a la fripe, fripe, la la crofite, croûle, k la briffe, briffe, h
la cuistance, cuislance, Ia la bdquetance, béquelance, la la jaffe, jaffe, Ia la
graine, graine, la la tortore, IOrtore, la la daronge, dnronge, Ie le frichti
frichti arrives. arrives. Everyone Everyone has has tm un estome eSlOme (stomach),
(stomach), and and one one has has to to eat eat in in other other words, words,
claper, claper, croquer, croquer, tortorer, IOrlOrer, cacher, cacher, grainer,
grainer, claboter, claboter, clapoter, clapoter, claquer, claquer, gousser,
gousser, morfiler, morfiler, morfier, morfier, to to live. live. And And if if la
la jaffe jaffe is is good good then then on on se se morfale, morfale, on
onfircote, fircote, on on se se bigale bégaie (one (one enjoys enjoys
Bread Bread and and wine wine are are placed placed on on the the table table
first. firs!. Bread, Bread, or or le le gringue, gringue,
I'artifaille, /'artifaille, la la brique, brèque, le le brigetcn, brigetcn, le le
brignollet. brignollet. Wine, Wine, or or le le sirop, sirop, le le pivois, pivois,
le lejaja, jaja, le lepive, pive, le le tutu, lutu, le le busard, busard, le le
picrate, picrate, le le pichtegom. pichtegom. If If it it is is a a robust robust
red red wine wine it it is is /e le coaltair; coaltair; if ifit it is is a a fine
fine lightwine, light wine, it it is is le le coulange. coulange. It lt can can be
be rouquin rouquin (red) (red) or or beaujolpif beaujolpif and and will will be be
in in a a bottle, boUle, that that is is to to say say Ia la betterave, betterave,
la la boutanche, boutanche, la la rouille.If rouille. If it it is is in in litres.
litres, it it is is Ie lekil kil or or kilo kilo and and on on le lepictera pic/era
(it (it will will be be quaffed quaffed with with a a right right good good will).
will). If Ifit itis isaa bottle botlleof ofchamp champ(Champagne) (Champagne)itit
becomes becomes a a roteuEe.It rOleuse. lt is is drunk drunk n in un unguindal,
guindai, tm un bennard bennardor or tm unglasse. glasse. The The appetite appetite
begins begins with with I'apdro l'apéro (the (the alfa alfa of ofthe the good good
old old days I'alfa being days has has gone go ne--l'alfa being the the absinth
absinth (la (la verte\ ver le) of ofla laBelle Belle Epoque). Epoque). From From /a
la bouillante bouillante (soup) (soup) we we move move on on to to la la
392 392 oneself). oneself).

cuIsINE CUISINE ET ET DE DE TABLE TABLE - Slang, wrote Gaston Esnault Esnault in

his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire historiEte historique des des argots argots
frangais français (Larousse) is is 'a

DE DE
FRENCH FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAMES NAMES
barbaque or or bidoche, bidoche, le le saciflard saciflard (saucisson),
(saucisson), also also called called du du barbaque bits, then then came les les
navarins navarins (turnips), (turnips), les les loubiats loubiats (haricot (haricot
Dils, beans), then then le le calendo calendo (Camembert) (Camembert) which which
is is rm un rAme l'ème beans), (cheese), (cheese), then then le le caowt caoua
(coffee) (coffee) which, which, being being black, black, can can also also biffi.
At At last last it it is is time bme for for la la consolante, consolante, a a
bottle bottle of of be called called biffi. be wine drunk drunk before before
leaving leaving (or (or after after the the coup coup de feu). (Slang (Slang wine

Cond6 certain preparations preparati.ons by by tu certain Condé (A (À ta) la) -

Name N ame given to Feuillet, Condé household household during during the the
Feuillet. master mas ter chef chef of o!' the Conde Restoration. Restora tion.
Conti Conti (A (À h) la) - Name Na'11e given to to several several recipes recipes
created created by by the of the the Prince Prince of Conti. Conti. the chefs chefs
of But But it it was was the the Princess Princess of of Conti Conti who whc
'invented' 'invented' the the loin loin of of mutton mutton that that bears bears
her her name, name, the the famous famous loin loin gourmande gourmandé mentioned
de de persil (gourmandised (gourmandised with with parsley) parsley) that that is
is mentioned in in le le Bourgeois Kn:lJrC,pnl~ gentilhomme. ,f?,em'lIfl'onlme.
Cussy (A ta) - Louis Louis de de Cussy, Cussy, one one of of the the wittiest
wittiest gourmets a""rlYlp!C of of the the early early nineteenth nineteenth
century century was was prefect prefect of of the palace palace under under
Napoleon Napoleon I. 1. and and the the chef chef dedicated dedicated some sorne
recipes recipes to to him. him. Duroc la) - V6ry, Véry, who who owed owed much much
in in his bis early days days to to Duroc (A ta) . . to the the protection
protection of of Marshal Marshal Duroc Duroc and and . ... to the love love of of
few dedicate a Madame Madame V6ry, Véry, could could hardly hardJy do do less Jess
than than dedicate a few recipes to :0 his his benefactor. benefactor. C6sar owe
this ta) Frangipane (A l<r<~no,in~lnp (À la) We owe this pastry pastry cream cream
to to César - We de M6dicis nobleman. Catherine Catherine de Italian nobleman. an
Italian Frangipani, an Médicis France. introduced it into into France. Madame de de
to Madame assistant to G6rard was ta) - Gérard G6rard (A la) was assistant after
his creations creations after of nis He called one of called one chef. He
Pompadour's Pompadour's chEf. the to bear bear the common to it too too common
considered it himself because because he he consider~d It de Pompadour. Pompadour.
It personage as as Madame such a a personage name of such name of Madame de veau à
h la la Géra,·d. Girard. de veau was manchon de a very very good who was was a (A
la) The marquise, ta) Maintenon (À Maintenon marquise, who - The the widow still
the she was was still when she (she invented an oven when an oyen cook (she cook
lover. royal lover. papillotes for for her her royal en papillotes cdtelettes en
created côtelelles Scarron), created her nam\::. name. They still bear bear her
invented on on was invented that chicken chicken Marengo was It is said said that
Marengo- lt called a Swiss Swiss called by Bonaparte's Bonaparte's cook, a itself
by the battlefield itself Dunant. to used to period, a restaurateur used a Parisian
Parisian restaurateur same period, the same Around the (the veal in first tossed
tossed in veal being being first ragofit (the tomato ragoût veal and and tomilto
serye a a veal serve Dieu. When news of of When news La Grâce Grdce de de Dieu. his
restaurant La oil) in in his olive oil) the exchange the stock exchange by the the
Paris Paris stock was circulated circulated by victory was the victory the Marengo.
veau Marengo. his veal veal dish dish veau christened his humble restaurateur
christened humble (where Vdfour (where Grand Véfoul" runs the the Grand who runs
Raymond Oliver, Oliver, who Raymond with Josephine) Josephine) occasionally with to
dine dine occasionally used to Bonaparte used Bonaparte He the disi1. dish' He
created the who created not Dunant Dunant who was not maintains that it it was main
tains that date recent date more recent is of of a a more assures us that chicken
Marertgo is of the end end of home nearing the in Talleyrand's home served in and
was was served and guests, entranced dish, the dish. entranced with the life. When
Talleyrand's life. When his guests, Talleyrand's 'To win win declared' 'To
Talleyrand declared. recipe, Talleyrand for the the recipe, him for begged him
begged in e.,.;tremis, extremis, sacrifice, in had to to sacrifice, Bonaparte had
Marengo, Bonaparte victory at at Marengo, victory tomato recipe, the the toma of
this this recipe, make a a success success of to make Desaix; to his friend friend
Desaix; his to These two two moment. These very last last moment. the very at the
sacrificed at must be be sacrificed must name hence the the name in common, common,
hence gestures have have something something in gestures poulet Marengo'. paulel at
concoctedat dish was was l,oncocted that this this dish think ~hat who ~hink
Thereare are a a few who There in Algeria. Marengo in at Marengo later date. date,
at an even even later an in theSavoy Savoy in at the was working at he was while he
It was was while M€tba -- It Melba p?che his celebrated celebrated pêche invented
his Escoffier invented London, that that Escoffier Melba Nelly Melba Dame Nelly
singer Dame Australian singer famous Australian Melba for the the famous given by
dinner given by at aa dinner (who loved flrstserved servedat was first It was her
food). food). Ir loved her (who triumph !il in singer's Iriumph the singer's to
celebrate celebrate the of Orléans Orl6ans to the Duke Duke of the ice, swan of of
ice. dish of of aaswan up aa dish conjured up Escoffier conjured Lohengrin.
Escoffier Lohengrin. vanilla bed of of vanilia resting on onaa bed and resting
peacheson its wings wings and on its bearing peaches the sprinkled the andsprink1ed
swan and theswan heomitted omitted the Later he cream ice. Later cream syrup.
peaches with with raspberry raspberry syrup. peaches preserves. Once the only only
(Ala) Once the Cherry preserves. la) -- Cherry Montmorency (À Montmorency
practically 'Montmorency' fresh, practically type, aafresh, the'Mon wasthe variety
used used was tmorency' type, variety from hadbeen been brought brought from
saidhad which it itwas was said cherry which unsweetened cherry unsweetened Asia bv
Lucullus. Asia preserves otherpreserves andother marmalade and Orleans (A ta) -
Quince marn1aJade de Monseigneur de commemorate Monseigneur tocommemorate named
thus to have been been named have greatlove loveof offood. food. ofOrléans',
Orl6ans', great Bishop of Jarente's,Bishop Jarente's, the inthe AJesuit Jesuit born
born in Fabri) - - A distortion Fabri) PireFaby Faby(by Père Oydistortion
393 393

restaurant chefs chefs around around 1910. 1910. Taken used by by restaurant used
Dictionnaire of of Gaston Gaston Esnault). Esnault). Dictionnaire

from the the

- Information Information of of the the origin of certain certain -

FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAMES. NAMES. APPELLATIONS APPELLATIONS CULINAIRES

CULINAIRES FRENCH culinary names names is is scattered throughout throughout this
this volume. volume. Here Here are are a a few few more. more. scattered list is is
far from from complete, and and even even the the facts given here here The list
may be be far far from from exact exact since most most of of it il is based based
on hearsay. hearsay. may Curnonsky, for instance, had had enormous enormous
difficulty difficulty in in finally finally Curnonsky, proving that homard homard d
à I'amdricaine l'américaine (and (and not not d à I'armoricaine) l'armoricaine) was
created by the the chef chef Pierre Fraysse Fraysse (native (native of of Sdte)
Sète) for was his restaurant restaurant called called Peter's, Peter 's, in Paris,
Paris, on on his his return from his the other hand, it is still a a mystery who
the America. On the whom a maitre maître d'hitel d'hôlel (from (from Paris or
MonteSuzette was to whom Suzette crêpes. And was she really dining dining with
Carlo?) dedicated the crOpes. of Wales Wales when wh en they were created for her?
the Prince of a few more culinary terms: Here then are a Abrantès - The governor
governor of of Paris, Junot, duc d'Abrantds, d'Abrantès, Abrantts

of his time. This was Richard (who had one of of the best chefs of has a variety of
chafing dish called after him). him). He created a master. a tribute to his master'
Ia d'Abrantès d'Abranl2s as a d la number of dishes à of the Cafe chef of Adolphe
Dugl6r6, Dugléré, then then head head chef the Café Anna - Adolphe famous courtesan
Anglais, invented Anna potatoes for the the famolis Anglais, Anna Deslions. Anna
called were so called (A la calves' sweetbreads so d) Artois (À ta d') - The
calves' Charles X. invented by the Count of Artois, future future Charles Brillat-
Savarin's Aurore Christian name of Brillat-Savarin's the Christian - This was the
gofit dedidedidu goût mother, Physiologie du author of Physiologie the author to
whom whom the mother, to cated sorne some recipes. Restauration period of of the
the Restauration Bagration the period During the Bagration - During for this this
epoch (and what (Restoration) (Restoration) (and suitable name for what more
suitable when French !), the Princess Bagration at its peak !), was at French
cuisine was her chef. chef' as her had CarOme as than Marie-Antoine Carême had none
none other other than done to to had done he had her, as as he He to her, dishes to
certain dishes He dedicated dedicated certain Talleyrand. please the the to please
loved to de Pompadour Pompadour loved Madame de Bellevue - Madame his foreforeof
rus palate than that that of finer one one than palate of it was was a a finer XV;
it of Louis Louis XV; Bellevue. Sorne Some bear, of Bellevue. chdteau of owned the
château She owned Louis XIV. XIV. She bear, Louis chdteau; the château; of after
the were called called after devised were recipes she she devised the recipes of
the sorne herself. some after after herself. for dishes dishes Bénédictine, Name
for carm6lite -- Name B6nedicting chartrcuse, carmélite cell. prepared in aa
monastic monastic cell. have been been in prepared as they would have as they mass
a mass Partridge inside a are cooked cooked inside pheasant, for for example,
example, are or pheasant, Partridge or paper. Recipes Recipes of in paper. herbs,
or even wrapped in or herbs, of vegetable or headings. the "n'nrt""·i,,ltp
appropriate !l',-,a'':'llJ,'''''. under the are given under la young rabbits
rabbits à d la Berry (A la) h) -- The dish of fillets of young Duchess Berry its
creation greedy and scandalous Duchess the greedy and scandalous to the Beny owes
owesits creation to of Regent. of the the Regent. daughter of favourite daughter of
Berry, Berry, favourite Bourdaloue shop, at the the shop, (A la) of aa pdtissier at
Invention of ta) -- Invention Bonrdaloue (À la rue in rue situated in which was was
(and still is) situated la Belle Belle Epoque which original its original by its
specialities The "I.J\" Bourdaloue, .... '.~""''-''' devised by Bourdaloue, Paris.
The owner there today. today. sold there are still still sold owner are Bresolles
valet by the the valet the battlefield battlefield by on the invented on Ragofit
invented Bresolles -- Ragoût of War. Years' War. Seven Years' the Seven during the
Brezolles during Marquis of of Brezolles the Marquis of the Cardinal man if if ever
ever discerning man Mazarin,aadiscerning It was was Mazarin, ta) -- Il Cardinal (À
G la) there us named. named. thus thedishes dishes th inspired the was one, one,
who who inspired there was (and preparations (and Chantilly given to of
pn:parat:i0l1s number of to aa number Name given Chantilly -- Name in he when he
name) by Vatel, when particular to of this this name) cream of to the the cream in
particular was household. to the theCondé Cond6 household. masterchef chef to was
master pois petits pois years,the Clamart great many the petits (A la) many years,
For aagreat ta) -- For Clamsrt (À ea ten in from the the came from particularly at
at Court, Court, came and particularly in Paris, Paris, and eaten market suburbs.
in the gardens of thesuburbs. ofClamart Clamart in market gardens
FRIANDISE
(mentioned by diocese of of Belley Belley (mentioned by Brillat-Savarin) Brillat-
Savarin) who was who was diocese particularly fond (warblers), He fond of of
becfigues becfigues (warblers). great Hewas wasaagreat particularly gourmet.
gourmet. (A la) gourmandise of Reine (À h) -- The Thegourmandise gave ofMarie Marie
Leczinska Leczinska gave Reine birth to to aa whole (vol-au-vent, chicken, whole
host host of of recipes recipes(vol-au-vent, chicken, birth consomm6s) aIl all with
with the the na name lareine. reine. consommés) me àitla potage à But the the
creator creator of of potage la reine reine was dla was Margot, Margot, the
thefirst first But wife of Henry IV. of Henry IV. wife (A la) Robert (À la) -- The
Thesauce saue Robert Roberl which which Rabelais Rabelais made made Robert such a a
fuss fuss about about was, was, it it seems, seems, invented invented by by Robert,
Robert, chef chef to to such the Abbot Abbot of of Saint-Germain-des-Prés Saint-
Germain-des-Pres in in the the Middle Middle Ages. Ages. the Ought we really to
Salmis -- Ought to attribute we really attribute the the salmis salmis de de
bécasse bicasse Salmis (salmis of of woodcock) woodcock) to to the the Prince
Prince of of Salm, Salm, who who used used to to (salmis lodge in in what what is
is now now the the Palais Palais de la Légion fu la Ldgion d'honneur? d'honneur?
No. No. lodge Salmis is is aa Gascon Gascon ellipsis ellipsis of of two two Latin
Latin words: words: salsa salsa Salmis (feminine of of salsus, salsus, which which
means means salted salted and and is root of of the is the the root the (feminine
'sauce') and word 'sauce') (feminine of and mista participle mista (feminine past
participle of mistus, mistus, past word of misceo which means misceo which means
'mixed 'mixed up') up') 50 so the the exact exact definition definition of of of
salmis is 'mixed up is a a 'mixed up sauce'. sauce'. salmis Soubise (À ta) -- Sauce
Sauce invented invented by by Constant, head chef Constant, head chef of of Soubise
1A la) the Soubise Soubise household. household. the (A la) Villeroy (À ta)
Chickens à d la la Villeroy Villeroy are are attributed attributed to to Villeroy -
Chickens the Marshal Marshal of of Luxemburg, Luxemburg, Duchess Duchess of of
Villeroy. Villeroy. the (A la) Xavier (À ta) Soup invented invented by by Louis
Louis Stanislas Stanislas Xavier Xavier of of Xavier - Soup France, Count Count of
of Provence, Provence, the the future future Louis Louis XVIII. XVIIL France,
FRIANDISE French word word for for a a delicacy delicacy wh when referring to to
FRIANDISE en referring - French pdtis s erie or or sweetmeats. pâtisserie This word
word is is often often used used to to describe describe iced iced petits fours.
This fours.
(topside) of FRICANDEAU Rump (topside) of veal. veal. Also Also describes describes
a FRICANDEAU a - Rump (noix de dish made made of loin loin of veal veal (noix de
vel1u) veau) larded, larded, braised, braised, or or (see VEAL, VEAL, Noix Noix de
de veau). roasted (see to slices slices or or fillets of The name is also applied
to of fish, fish, mainly mainly (tuna fish), those sturgeon and and fresh fresh
tunny tunny (tuna those of sturgeon fish), braised braised in in a a fish stock.
fish FRICASSEE - In modern French usage, usage, the FRICASSÉE fricassée
wordy'icassie the word applies almost exclusively to a a method of preparing
poultry poultry applies in a white sauce. In earlier times denoted various times
the the term denoted various kinds kinds of of stew stew made with white or brown
stock, not only from poultry but but from meat, fish and vegetables. vegetables. A
A fricassde fricassée of poultry is is prepared in me in very much much the the sa
same way way as a blanquette blanquelle (q.v.), a dish usually made with veal veal
or lamb. Fricass6e Fricassée of of chicken chicken i à la la berrichonne.
berrichonne. FRICASSÉE r'ntcassfr DE ne poul,Er (9 oz.) POULET A À r,l LA
nennrcHoNNE BERRICHONNE - Brown in butter 250 g. (9 250 g. new carrots, whole if
they they are small, quartered if they new carrots, are small, they are are large.
Remove them them from the the pan and brown the tbe pieces pieces of a jointed
Add,2+ dl. (scant I pint, jointed chicken in the same butter. Add generous generous
cup) boiling boiling water water or white stock, the car rots and carrots a bunch
bunch of mixed mixed herbs. herbs. Season. Season . Cover Coyer and and cook cook
for for 30 minutes. minutes. Pour off the the chicken chicken stock, add add to it
5 tablespoons (6 Pour tablespoons) tablespoons)cream egg yolks with a a small pinch
of cream and 2 egg fine fine sugar sugar and and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon vinegar.
vinegar. Mix well well and pour the sauce over over the the chicken. chicken. sauce
Warm the the chicken chicken in in the the sauce sauce without without bringing
bringing it to the Warm boil. boil. Fricassée p6rigourdine périgourdine - Name Name
given given in P6rigord Périgord to the the Fricassee vegetable5 of of a a pot-au-
feu. pot-au-feu. Before Before this trus is is quite quite cooked, the vegetables
drained, sliced, sliced, browned browned in butter butter vegetables are are
removed, removed, drained, vegetables or oil, oil, sprinkled sprinkled with with
flour, flour, moistened moistened with with a little stock, or put back back in in
the the pot-au-fea pot-au-feu to to finish finish cooking. cooking. and put and The
same same name nameis is given given to to a a mixture mixture of ofaromatic
vegetables The aromatic vegetables cooked in in butter butter or or oil oil with
with garlic garlic and and ham. ham. This This fricassde fricassée cooked various
soups. soups. is used used in in various is ancientNorman Norman faim-valle
whichmeant ancient meantfaim decheval, or cheval,or faim-vallewhich faimde sudden
hunger. hunger. aasudden

FRINOT - -See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE. FRINOT FRITOT - -Type Typeof offritter fritter
made madewith piecesof FRITOT poultry, withsmaU smallpieces ofpoultry, lamb or
orveal vealsweetbreads, sweetbreads, brains, lamb brains,or heads. orcalves'
calves'heads. juice piecesof Soak the thepieces Soak ofmeat meatfor for30 30minutes
minutesin inoil, oil,lemon lemon juice (or vinegar), vinegar),and (or and mixed
mixedchopped choppedherbs. herbs. Dip Dipin inaalight lightbatter batter fryin
andfry indeep deepfat. fat. and Drain the the fritters. fritters. Season
garnishwith Drain Seasonwith with salt saltand andgarnish with parsleyand fried
parsley quarteredlemons. fried andquartered lemons.Serve Servewith withaasauce,
sauce, Tomato. usually Tomato. usually A number number of given under A of recipes
recipesare aregiven underthe theheading headingFritot Fritot in in (seeHORSthe the
section section devoted devoted to to Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre (see
HORSD'(EUVRE). D'ŒUVRE). piecesofmeat Small Small pieces poultry prepared ofmeat
and preparedàdla andpoultry laVilleroi Villeroiare are alsocalledfritots. called,
fritots. also

FRITTER. BEIGNET FRITTER. BErcNEr - - Food Fooddipped dipped in in batter batter

and andflied fried in in smoking-hot, deep (lard, oil, smoking-hot, deep fat
fat(lard, oil, clarified clarified butter, butter, or orvegetable vegotable
fat).The The batter fat). batter for for coating coating varies varies according
according to tothe the nature natureof of (See BATTER.) the the food. food. (See
BATTER.) Another variety variety of Another of fritter fritter is is made paste
like made of of aa paste like chou chou pasteand paste and called called soufflé
petsde souffi6 fritters fritters or or pets de nonne. nonne. A A third third
variety variety is made ofyeast is made of yeast dough, dough, similar similar to
to brioche brioche (soe Viennafritters dough dough (see Viennafritters below).
below). Cream Cream fritters fritters and and fritters fritters made (see made of
of waffle waffie batter batter (see WAFFLE), WAFFLE), can can be (q.v.) for be used
like croustades used like croustades (q.v.) garnishes. for garnishes.
FRITTERS FRITTERS FOR FOR HORS-D'ŒUVRE HORS-D'(EUVRE AND AND SMALL SMALL ENTRÉES.
ENTREES. BIEGNETS BIEGNETS POUR PoUR HORS HoRs D'oœUVRE D'oGUVRE ET ET PETITES
PETITES ENTRÉES eNrn6ns -- These These fritters, fritters, the the recipes recipes
for for which given which are are given below, below, should should be be served
with tomato served with tomato or or other othersauce. sauce.

2t

FOllers Fritters

FRINGALE (Hunger (Hunger pang) pang) - This This word word comes cornes from from
the the FRINGALE

Anchovy Anchovy fritters 1. I. BEIGNETS nnrcxsrs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors Trim and and
desalt desalt - Trim anchovy fillets. fillets. Spread Spread them them on on one
one side side with with hard-boiled hard-boiled egg rubbed through egg yolks rubbed
through a a sieve sieve and and mixed mixed with with a a little little butter and
parsIey. Roll butter and chopped parsley. Roll them them up, up, dip dip in in a a
light light deep-fry. Garnish with fried batter, and deep-fry. parsley. Garnish
with fried parsley. II. BEIGNETS Anchovy fritters fritters II. Archovy ssrcxnrs
D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors Desalt, trim, trim, - Desalt, and dry dry anchovy anchovy
fillets. fillets. Sandwich them, two two by two, with and Sandwich them, by two,
with pounded fish fish forcemeat forcemeat flavoured flavoured with with anchovy
finely pounded finely anchovy purée and mixed with a little chopped parsley. Dip
pur6e and mixed with a little chopped parsley. Dip into into batter and and deep-
fry. deep-fry. batter Artichoke fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS D'ARrrcHAUTs
D'ARTICHAUTS - See Artichoke HORS- See HORSD'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'Guyre. hors-
d'œuvre. D'(EUVRE, BEIGNETS D'AUBERGlNES Peel the Aubergine fritters. Aubergine
fritters. BErcNErs D',q.uBERcrNrs - Peel the cut into into slices, slices, and and
marinate marinate for for 1 hour in in oil, oil, aubergines, cut aubergines, I hour
lemon juice, juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, salt salt and and pepper.
pepper. Dip Dip in in batter batter lemon and deep-fry. deep-fry. and

394 394
FRITTER FRITTER
divide div ide into into small small pieces. pieces . Roll Roll into into balls'
balls. Dip Dip in in batter batter and deep-fry. deep-fry. D'oEUFs A I-A DUxELLES
Egg Eggfritters frittersiàla laduxelles. duxeUes. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS D'OEUFS À LA
DUXELLESI teaCut Cut hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs into into slices. slices.
Spread Spread them them with with 1 teatwo. Dip spoon spoon duxelles duxelles
(q.v.). (q.v .). Sandwich Sandwich them, them, two two by by two. Dip them them in
in batter batter and and deep-frY. deep-fry. D'oEUFs A I-.1 Rnnts Egg à la la
reine. reine. BEIcNETs BEIGNETS D'OEUFS À LA REINE Egg fritters fritters ir
omelette. Make a flat, thin Make a fiat, thin omelette. Allow Allow it it to to
cool, cool, and and then then cut cut it it lozenge-shaped pieces. into square or
or .Iozenge-shaped pieces. Put Put I1 tablespoon tablespoon into square (see
chicken chicken pur6e purée bound bound with with thick thick Veloutt Velouté sauce
sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped truffies trufHes on
on each each piece. piece. Sandwich Sandwich the the pieces, pieces, dip dip in in
batter batter and and deeP-frY. deep-fry. PolssoNs DE netcNnrs fish). FiS Fish
fritten fritters (pickled (pickled or or smoked smoked fish). BEIGNETS DE POISSONS
Ir.r.l,RINEs, MARINÉS, rurraf,s FUMÉS - Prepare Prepare as as described described
for for Anchovy Anchovy fritters fritters as 1L 1/. Fritters Fritters can can be be
made made of of different different kinds kinds of of fish, fish, such such as
salmon, smoked oil, in sardines eel, smoked fillets, herring herring fiUets, smoked
eel, sardines in oil, smoked salmon, tunny tunny in in oil, oil, etc. etc. DE
PoISSoNs, Fislr, Fish, shelffish, shellfish, and and seafood seafood fritters.
fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE POISSONS, MER - Recipes for DE FRUITS coQLnLLAGEs,
cEs, cnusrn CRUSTACÉS, COQUILLAGES, FRUITS DE MER - Recipes for fish fritters
various various kinds kinds of offish fritters will will be be found found under
under the the heading heading HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'euvre.
hors-d'œuvre. DE FoIE GRAs A Foie Foie gras gras lritters fritters i à I'ancienne.
l'ancienne. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE FOIE GRAS À pancakes. Spread unsweetened thin Make
L'ANCIEN].iE L'ANCIENNE - Make thin unsweetened pancakes. Spread diced truffies
(see PURÉE) PUREE) mixed gras purie with Foie mixed with with diced trufHes with
Foie gras purée (see scrolls. and and flavoured flavoured with with brandy. brandy.
Roll Roll the the pancake pancake into into scrolls. deep-fry' and deep-fry. light
batter pieces. Dip Dip in 2 or 3 pieces. or 3 Cut these Cut these into into 2 in
light batter and DE FoIE GRAS AUX BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS gras and and
truffie Foie gras FOIE GRAS AUX Foie truffle fritters. gras and and (q.v.) of
cooked foie of cooked salpicon (q.v.) a salpicon Prepare a rnurrps -- Prepare foie
gras TRUFFES Madeira-flavoured concentrated' Madeira-ftavoured with concentrated,
blended with truffies, blended trufHes, into Divide into to cool. cool. Divide
Allow to (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Allow sauce (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace very a
pig's or caul piece of in a each pieces wrap and small small pieces and wrap each
in a piece of pig's caul or a very Dip water. Dip in cold cold water. previously
soaked soaked in pork, previously salt pork, sfice of of salt thin sUce thin (see
sauce (see Pdrigueux semee with Périgueux Serve with deep-fry. Serve and deep-fry.
in batter batter and in sAUCE). SAUCE). DE ToPINAMBoURS BEIGNETS DE fritters.
BEIGNETS artichoke fritters. Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem TOPINAMBOURSdeep-fry.
and deep-fry. batter, and in batter, dip in marinate, Cook, marina Cook, te, dip
PrevIANDES -- PreDE VIANDES DE SALPICONS sALPIcoNS DE BEIGNETS DE fritters.
BEIGNETS Meat fritters. Meat or brown, brown, white or a sauce, sauce, white with a
blend with and blend pare a salpicon and a meat meat salpicon pare (cooked meat
leftmeat leftchosen (cooked meat chosen of meat the type type of on the depending
on depending diced poultry). Add Add diced pork, veal, veal, poultry). mutton,
pork, beef, mutton, lamb, beef, oults -- lamb, overs allow sheet and and allow
metal sheet on a a metal Spread on mushrooms. Spread and mushrooms. truffies and
trufHes dip ball, dip into aa ball, pieces, roll roll each each into small pieces,
Divide into into small to cool. cool. Divide to deep-fry. and deep-fry in batter
batter and . in vEAU- DE VEAU DE FRAISE FRAISE DE BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS
mesentery fritters. Calf's mesentery Calf's (q.v.), drain, court'bouillon (q.v in
aa court-bouillon mesentery in the calf's calf's mesentery Cook the Cook .), drain,
prepare like llke Brainfritters. Brain fritters. and prepare marinate, dry, marina
dry, te, and Prepare aa DE CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPIGNoNS- - Prepare BEIGNETs DE fritters.
BEIGNETS Mushroom fritters. Mushroom Blend if desired. desired.Blend ham if diced
barn adding diced mushrooms, adding of mushrooms, salpiconof salpicon (see SAUCE),
small into small divide SAUCE), div sauce(see Btchamel sauce with Béchamel ide Înto
with deep-fry. anddeep-fry. batter, and dip in in batter, pieces, roll roll into
into balls, balls, dip pieces, See OYSTERS. OYSTERS. normande -- See lanormande
fritters àI la Oyster fritters Oyster Bind'a rERRE - - Bind DEltRRE DEPOMMES PoMMES
DE sstcNsrs DE friffersJ.I.BEIGNETS Potato fritters Potato a (see sauce(see
Bdchamel sauce potatoes with with Béchamel of boiled boiled potatoes salpicon of
salpicon into Divide cold. leave until and dishand leave until cold. Divide into
onaadish Spread on SAUCE).Spread SAUCE). and light batter batterand inaalight Dip
in into balls. balls. Dip piecesand shapeinto andshape smallpieces small indeep-
fat. deep-fat. fryin fry or Grateor DE rERRE- -Grate DEPOMMES PoMMEsDE srlcNnrsDE
II.BEIG~ETS frittersII. Potatofritters Potato TERRE pepper' salt,pepper, withsalt,
season with andseason well,and potatoes,dry dryweIl, rawpotatoes, minceraw mince
small yolks.Divide Divide into intosmall eggyolks. withegg gratednutmeg. Bindwith
nutmeg. Bind andgrated and deep-fry' anddeep-fry batter, and lightbatter,
pieces,dip dipin inaalight pieces, . salsify, thesalsify, Cookthe DE sALsIFIs- -
Cook BEIGNETs DE fritters.BEIGNETS Salsifr fritters. SALSIFIS Salsify deep-fry.
anddeep-fry inbatter, batter,and dipin pieces,marina marinate, littlepieces,
cutinto intolittle te, dip . cut Asfor forSpinachfrillers Spinach fritters
D'osEILI-E- -As BEIGNETs fritters.BEIGNETS Sorrelfritters. D'OSEILLE Sorre)
(seebelow). below). (see spinach Steep o'6plN.rrnos - - Steep sntcl.InrsD'ÉPINARDS
frittersI.I.BEIGNETS Spinachfritters spinach Spinach juice,salt, pepper. andpepper.
salt, lemonjuice, oil,lemon minutes few leavesfor fora a ininoil, and leaves few
minutes batter, inlight lightbatter, dipthem themin time,dip ata a leaves
togetherat fourleaves Pressfour time, Press together deep-fry. anddeep-fry. and
and 395 395

Moulds Mould, for for fritters: rrilters: LeJi to right: right.' mushroom,
musluoom, star, Sla r. boat, boal. heart, rose rose Left (Dehillerin. Phot.
I'arousse') Larousse) Dehillerin. Phot \

HORS-D'(EUVRE, Beeffritters. BEIGNETS DE BoEUFBOEUF- See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, fritters.

BEIGNETs Beef Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. cERVELLES DE CERVELLES BEIGNETS DE
(lanrb's or Brain fritters or calf's). calf's). BEIGNETS fritters (Jamb's (q.v.)'
the brains in court-bouillon (q.v.). D ' AGNEAU , DE VEAU vEAU D'AGNEAU. - Cook th~
juice, and in oil, oil, lemon juice, marinate in Cut into and mannate small slices
slices and into small deep-fry. and deep-fry. chopped in batter batter and parsley.
Dip in chopped parsley. DE BRUXELLESBRUXELLES DE CHOUX cHollx DE BEIGNETS DE
Brussels sprout fritters. BEIGNETS dip in in drain, dip water, drain, in salted
salted water, Half-cook, Brussels sprouts in Brussels sprouts juice, and and lemon
juice, oil, lemon in oil, cold marinate in and marinate dry, and water, dry, cold
water, deep-fry' chopped and deep-fry. parsley. Dip in batter and Dip in chopped
parsley. DE DE CARDONS, cARDoNS, DE Cardoon BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS chard
fritters. or chard Cardoon or preand premarinated cooked, marina CARDES ted and
chards cooked, or chards cARDEs -- Cardoons Cardoons or pared for Aubergine
Aubergine fritters pared as described for as described fritters'. DE
CHOUXcHouxBEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS Cauliflower broccoli fritters. or broccoli
Cauliflower or marinated, flowerets, marinated, Divided into into ftowerets,
FLEURS, DE BROCOLIS BRocoLIs -- Divided FLEURS, DE (see below). below). and
fritlers (see Mushroomfritters for Mushroom as for and cooked cooked as and
marinate, Cook, marina te, and Celery DE CELERI cELERI -- Cook, BEIGNETs DE
fritters. BEIGNETS Celery fritters. or Celeriac or Aubergine fritters. prepare for
Aubergine prepare as described for as described fritters- Celeriac ordinary be
used. used. may be celery may ordinary celery leftChicken DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE --
Chic ken leftChicken BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Chicken fritters. Marinate
slices. Marinate small slices. cut into into small overs, and cut poached or or
braised braised and overs, poached and juice, and batter and in batter parsley. Dip
Dip in in chopped parsley. and chopped lemon juice, in oil, oil, lemon deep-fry.
deep-fry. Cut DEPOULETS PouLErs - - Cut Chicken DE FOIES FoIEsDE BElcNErsDE
fritters. BEIGNETS liver fritters. Chicken Iiver add (q.v.), inbutter, butter,add
the .), brown briskly in brown bnskly salpicon (q.v livers into into aasalpicon the
Iivers with blend with and blend diced in butter, butter, and tossed in also tossed
mushrooms,also diced musbrooms, is mixture is (seeSAUCE). the mixture When the
thick SAUCE). When sauce (see Bichamel sauce thick Béchamel balls. piecesand
rollinto into balls. cold, androll small pieces into small cold, divide divide into
Dip deeP-frY. anddeep-fry. in batter batter and Dip in chicory, Braisetbe
thechicory, Chicory D'ENDIVES - - Braise BEIcNETsD'ENDIVES fritters. BEIGNETS
Chicory fritters. minutes for30 30minutes dry , and Marinate for
lengthways.Marinate intwo two lengthways. andcut cut in dryweil well, juice,and
batterand and inbatter parsley' Dip Dipin in choppedparsley. andchopped lemonjuice,
inoil, oil,lemon deep-fry. deep-fry. couRGErrES - Courgette DECOURGETTES (zucchini)
fritters. BEIGNETS DE fritters.BEIGNETS Courgette (zucchini) As Aubergine fritters.
AsAubergine fritters. (q.v.) Egg salpicon (q.v.) Preparea asalpicon D'oEUFs-
-Prepare BEIcNETS D'OEUFS fritters. BEIGNETS Eggfritters. (andlean ham, leanbarn,
of truffies(and andtruffies mushrooms,and hard-boiled eggs, eggs,mushrooms, ofhard-
boiled orthick thick sauce,or if Bichamelsauce, thickBéchamel withthick blendwith
if liked) liked)and andblend Spread Velouté used.Spread beingused. (seSAUCE)
meatisisbeing ifmeat SAUCE) if Veloutesauce sauce(see then tocool, cool,then the
allowititto andallow sheetand metalsbeet ona ametal themixture mixtureon
FRITTER
prepare aa Spinachfritters frittersn. II. BEIGNETS srrcNersD'ÉPINARDS o'6prN.e,nos
- - Prepare Spinach (seeFORCEMEA FORCEMEAT) putaa thin andput Quenelle forcemeat
thin Quenelle T) and forcemeat (see layer on on large large spinach spinach leaves,
leaves, previously previously steeped steepedin layer in oil, oil, juice, salt,
lemon juice, pepper. Roll salt,and andpepper. Roll up, up, dip dip in in batter,
batter, and lemon and deep-fry. deep-fry. Sweetbread fritters (lamb's or fritters
(Iamb's orcalf's). calf's). BEIGNETS BETcNETsDE DERIS Sweetbread Rrs D'AGNEAU. DE
DE VEAU vEAU- - Braise Braise the thesweetbreads sweetbreadsin D'AGNEAU. inaa
courtcourtbouillon. Marinate Marinate them juice, them for for30 30minutes minutes
in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, houillon. and chopped parsley. Dip chopped
parsley. Dip in in batter batter and anddeep-fry. deep-fry. and Tomato fritters.
fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE DETOMATES ToMATEsCut tomatoes tomatoesinto Tomato -
Cut into quarters, remove remove seeds, seeds, marinate, marinate, dip dip in in
batter, batter, deep-fry. quarters, deep-fry. Tongue fritters (ox or fritters (ox
or calf's). calf's). ,BEIGNETS BETcNETS DE Tongue DE LANGUE LANGUE DE DE BoEUF, DE
DE VEAU vEAU -- Cook Cook and and cool cool the the tongue tongue and BOEUF, and
cut cut into into small slices. slices. Marinate, Marinate, dip dip in in batter,
batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. small Trufre fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS
BErcNErs DE DETRUFFES TRUFFES -- Cut Truffle Cut raw raw truffles truffies into
into thick slices slices and and steep steep in in brandy brandy with pepper, and
thick with salt, salt, pepper, and spices. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and
deep-fry. deep-fry. spices. Vegetable-marrow (squash) (squash) fritters fritters-
See Vegetable-marrow See HORSHORSD'(EUVRE. Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'cuvre.
D'ŒUVRE, Vine tendril tendril fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BErcNErs DE DE VRILLES
vRrLLEs DE Vine DE VIGNE vrcNn -- Steep Steep the tendrils tendrils in in oil, oil,
lemon, lemon, salt, salt, and pepper. Taking and pepper. the Taking a a few few at
at a time, time, dip dip in in ba batter and deep deep fry. fry. a tter and
(DESSERT) FRITTERS. SWEET (DESSERT) FRITTERS. BEIGNETS SWEET BEIGNETS
D'ENTREMETSD'ENTREMETS _ Acacia blossom blossom fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS
BETcNETS D'ACACIA D'AcACrA -- Cut Acacia Cut off off the the stalks, sprinkle
sprinkle the the bunches bunches of of blossoms blossoms with pour stalks, with
sugar, sugar, pour a !ittle little rum rum or or brandy, brandy, and and leave
leave to over a to steep steep for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Dip in batter batter
and and fry fry in deep, deep, sizzling-hot sizzling-hot fat. Dip Drain, sprinkle
fat. Drain, sprinkle with sugar and and serve serve on paper doyley. on a a paper
doyley. with poMMEs - Core Apple fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETS DE DE POMMES
Apple the apples apples and and - Core the peel them. them. Cut Cut them them
across across in in slices slices about peel about 5 5 mm. mm. (t $ inch) thick.
Steep for for 30 minutes in thick. in brandy, kirsch or or rum. Drain, dip in in
batter, batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, put put on dip on a a
baking baking tray, fine sugar, sugar, and glaze in and glaze sprinkle with fine in
a a very hot hot oyen. oven. Apricot fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETS D'ABRICOTS
D'ABFJcors -- Halve the apricots Apricot and steep in and liqueur. and in sugar and
Finish cooking as as described described in in the the recipe Finish recipe for for
Crystallised fruitfritters fruit fritters (see below). peel the Banana fritters.
BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE BANANES - Peel the bananas and divide in half lengthways.
Steep in sugar and and liqueur. Finish as Finish as described described in ir: the
the recipe fruit recipe for for Crystallised fruit fritters (see below). Blossom
Blossom and flower fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE FLEURS - Divide acacia, elder,
eider, and marrow blossoms, blossoms, lilies and violets. violets, into bunches,
bunches, or, depending on their nature, snip off stalks and separate into into
petals. petaJs. Steep Steep in in sugar sugar and and liqueur liqueur for for 30 30
minutes, minutes, and and finish finish cooking as as describod described in the
recipe for Acacia ssom frit ters. Acacia blo blossomfritters. Cherry Cherry
fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS DE cERrsEs CERISES - Stone the cherries. cherries.
Steep them them in in sugar sugar and und kirsch kirsch or cherry cherry brandy.
brandy. Finish Finish as as described in the the recipe recipe for Fresh Fresh
fruit fruit fritters fritters (see (see below). below). Cherry Cherry soufl6
soufflé fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS sourrrns SOUFFLÉS AUx AUX cERrsES
CERISES Make Make the the fritters fritters as as described described in in the the
recipe recipe for for Souffid Soufflé fritters ,I 1 (see (see below). below). After
After cooking, cooking, garnish garnish with with stoned stoned fritters cherries
cherries cooked cooked in in syrup syrup combined combined with with a a little !
ittle cherry cherry jam jam and and flavoured ftavoured with \Vith kirsch. kirsch.
Cheshut Chestnut fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE MARRoNS MARRONS -
prepare Prepare vanillavanillaflavoured Chestnut purie purée (see (see CHESTNUT).
CHESTNUT). Taking Taking pieces pieces fiavoured Chestnut the of a a walnut,
walnut, wrap wrap them them in in leaves leaves of of unleavened unleavened the
size size of bread bread (Matzos) (Matzos) dippod dipped in in water. water. Dip
Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish as as described described in in the
the recipe recipe for for Fresh Freshfruit fruit fritters fritters (see (see
below). below). Cold Cold fritterg fritters, called ca lied Krapfuns. Krapfuns.
BErcNErs BEIGNETS FRorDs, FROIDS, Drrs DITS KRArFUNS KRAPFUNS - Prepare Prepare and
and deep-fry deep-fry the the fritters fritters as as described described in in the
the recipe recipe for for Viennafritters Vienna fritters (see (see below). below).
As As soon soon as as they they are are cooked, cooked, drain drain them them and
and drop drop into into a a hot, hot, light light syrup, syrup, flavoured ftavoured
as as desired. desired. When Wh en thev they are are well weil steeped, steeped,
strain strain and and serve serve cold. cold.
396 396
La La marchande marchande de de beignets. beignets. Painting Painting by byGerard
Gerard Dou Dou

prepare aa Custard Creant Creanr fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETs DE or CRÈME

cnirr,m -- Prepare Custard cream MS). Spread (see CREA crecvn (see CREAMS). Spread
on on aa buttered metal baking buttered metaJ baking sheet inch) thick. sheet in in
a a layer layer 2 2 cm. cm.(! thick. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Qinch) Dip Dip
in in batter batter and and finish finish off off as as described described in in
the the recipes recipes for f or Crystallisedfruitfritters C r y s t all is e d fru
it fri t t er s or Fr e sh fr uit fr i t t e r s (see or Freshfruitfritters (see
below). below). Cream Cream fritters fritten are are sometirnes sometimes coated
coated with with egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs crumbs before before frying.
frying. In In that that case go into case they they go into the the category
category of of croquettes. croquettes. They They are are also also called called
fried fried creams. creams. Fritters Fritters à la créole. i la creole. BEIGNETS
BETcNETS À A LA ra CRÉOLE cnforr -- Slit Slit and and stone stone dates, dates, and
and stuff stuff them them with with sweetened sweetened rice rice mixed mixed with
with finely finely chopped chopped orange peel and orange peel and flavoured
flavoured with with Curaçao. Curagao. Wrap Wrap each each date date in in a a very
very thin piece of thin piece Vienra fritter of Vienna fritter dough. dough.
Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for
Viennafritters Viennafritters (see below). Fritters à prepare i la la Creppazi.
Creppazi. BEIGNETS BETcNETs À A LA r,c, CREPPAZI cREppAzr -- Prepare large, large,
thin, sweet (see CRÉPE). sweet pancakes (see CREPE). Coat Coat with with a iigtrt a
light layer of French pastry cream (see CREAMS) uearn (see CREAMS) ftavoured
flavoured with with shed macaroons. kirsch and and mixed mixed with with cru
crushed macaroons. Put the the pancakes pancakes on Put on top top of of each each
other other until until the the layer layer is is about inch) thick. (* inch) about
5 5 mm mm (t thick. Cut (2-inch) square Cut into inro 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) s[uare
dip in batter and finish as described in the recipe for pieces, dip in batter and
finish as described in the recipe for Freshfruitfritters Fresh (see below). below).
fruit fritters (see Crystallised fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS DE DE FRUITS
Crystallised fruit fruit fritters. FRUrrs GLACÉS crlcfs -Cut up up peeled peeled
apricots, apricots, pineapple, peaches, pears, Cut pineapple, peaches, pears, and
and apples, into into slices. apples, slices. with sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle
with with brandy, brandy, kirsch, kirsch, rum, rum, or Dust with or other liqueur,
liqueur, and and leave leave to to steep steep for for 30 30 minutes. minutes.
Drain, Drain, any other in batter, balter, and and deep-fry deep-fry in in smoking-
hot smoking-hot fat. fat. dry, dip in Drain, dry dry in a a cloth, cloth, arrange
arrange on on a a baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle Drain, sprinkle with fine fine
sugar, sugar, and either in in a a very very hot hot oven oyen or or under under
with glaze either and glaze grill. a grill. Currant fritters. fritters. BETcNETS
BEIGNETS DE DE cRosErLLEs GROSEILLES - As Strawberry Currant - As Sftawberry
fritters (see (see below) below). fritters Date fritters. fritters. BETcNETs
BEIGNETS DE DE DATTES DATTES - Stuff stoned dates dates Date stoned - Stuff with
very very thick thick French French pastry pastry crecrn cream (see (see CREAMS),
CREAMS), with flavoured with with kirsch kirsch or or some some other other
liqueur. liqueur. flavoured Dip in in light light batter batter and and deep-dry.
deep-dry. Drain Drain the the fritters fritters and and Dip dust with with fine
fine sugar. sugar. dust Fig fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE FrcuES
FIGUES - Peel Peel and and quarter quarter the the Fig -brandy figs. Steep Steep
them them for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in brandy and sugar. sugar. Dip Dip
figs. and in light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. in Fresh fmit
fruit fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE FRUITS FRUITS NON NON GLACÉS _
Fresh GLACES Use cherries, cherries, strawberries, strawberries, raspberries,
raspberries, redcurrants, redcurrants, Use tangerines, and and oranges. oranges.
Stone Stone and and hull huI! the the berries. berries, and and tangerines,
FRITTER
divide the the oranges oranges and and tangerines tangerines into into segments.
segments. divide Sprinkle with with sugar sugar and and leave leave to to steep
steep in in liqueur liqueur for 30 Sprinkle minutes. Drain, Drain, dip dip in in
batter, batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, dry, and minutes.
sprinkle with with fine fine sugar. sugar. sprinkle Fruit jelly jelly fritters
fritters I. J. nslcNnrs BEIGNETS DE DE MARMELAoTs MARMELADES - Spread Spread the
the Fruit jelly in in a a thin thin layer layer on on a a moist moist baking baking
sheet. Cool. Cut into jelly shapes and and finish finish as as described in in the
recipe for Fresh Fresh fruit fruit shapes fritters. fritters. Fruit jelty jelly
fritters fritters II. II. snIcNBrs BEIGNETS DE DE MARMELADES MARMELADES - Wrap Wrap
the Fruit fruit jelly jelly in in pieces pieces of of unleavened unleavened bread
bread (Matzos) soaked in fruit water. water. the recipe for Fresh Fresh fruit fruit
fritters. fritters. Finish as as described described in the Finish Mont-Bry
fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS MoNT-BRY MONT-BRY - Prepare sweetenMont-Bry
ed semolina semolina as as for for a a dessert dessert and and spread spread it on
on a a buttered bu ttered ed metal sheet sheet in in a layer I 1 cm. $ (t inch)
thick. metal Cool and and cut cut into into small small rectangles. rectangles.
Coat Coat with with thick Cool apricot jam mixed mixed with with a fine salpicon of
walnuts and and figs, fine salpicon apricot and flavoured fiavoured with with rum.
rum. Dip in batter and and deep-fry. and Nanette fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS
BEIGNETS NANETTE NANETTE - Cut a stale stale brioche Nanette into slices. slices.
Spread Spread with French pastry pastry cream crecan (see CREAMS) with French into
mixed with with a a salpicon salpicon of crystallisod crystallised fruit steeped in
kirsch. steeped in mixed Sandwich the the slices slices and and steep steep in in
kirsch. Sandwich Dip in in a a light light batter batter and in the recipe as
described described in and finish as Dip Crystallisedfruit fritters or or Fresh
Fresh fruit fruit fritters. fritters. for for Crystallised fruit fritters p€cnes
Peach fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS on DE PÊCHES peaches ripe peaches Peach
- Divide ripe in half, half, peel, peel, and with sugar rum, or kirsch, rum, and
kirsch, sugar and sprinkle with and sprinkle in brandy. Leave to steep in a place
for for 1 I hour. a cool cool place Leave to steep in brandy. Dry, dip dip in in
batter, batter, and the fat. Drain the hot deep deep fat. fry in in very very hot
and fry Dry, fritters, put put them them on baking tray, fine sugar, tray, sprinkle
with fine a baking on a fritters, and hot oyen. glaze in oven. and glaze in a a hot
Pear fritters. in described in as described DE POIRES PoIREs Proceed as BEIGNETs DE
Pear fritters. BEIGNETS - Proceed Applefritters. the recipe the recipe for for
Apple fritters. Pineapple the pineapple D'ANANAS -- Cut Cut the BEIGNETs D'ANANAS
fritters. BEIGNETS Pineapple fritters. in slices, with sugar, sugar, and and half,
sprinkle sprinkle with in half, slice in divide each in slices, divide each slice
steep in liqueur. liqueur. steep in Finish for Crystallised Crystallised fruit
recipe for in the the recipe Finish as described in as described fruit fritters.
fritters. Plum greenhalved greenPRUNEs - Steep Steep halved DE PRUNES fritters.
BEIGNETS BEIcNETs DE Plum fritters. gages and or rum, rum, and plums for kirsctt,
brandy, brandy, or gages or I hour hour in in kirsch, for 1 or plums sugar. sugar.
Drain, fat. fry in in deep deep fat. and fry batter, and dip in in batter, Drain,
dip Drain glaze in tn a a sugar and and glaze with fine fine sugar Sprinkle with
Drain the the fritters. fritters. Sprinkle hot glazing. prepared without without
glazing. also be be prepared hot oyen. They may may also oven. They Plum PRUNES À A
DE PRUNES BEIGNETs DE I'agenaise. BEIGNETS fritters à l'agenaise. Plum fritters
L'AGENAISE - Soak greengages in and in liqueur liqueur and halved greengages
stoned, halved L'AGENATSE - Soak stoned, sugar, fruit again, again, and and whole
fruit to make make whole together to stick them them together sugar, stick coat
puree. Dip fry plum purée. in batter, batter, fry Dip in coat with with kirsch-
fiavoured kirsch-flavoured plmn in with fine fine sugar. sugar. fat, and and
sprinkle sprinkle with in deep deep fat, Polenta sweetened DE POLENTA PoLENTA --
Using Using sweetened BEIcNETs DE fritters BEIGNETS Polenta fritters. polenta (see
below). prepare as below). polenta cooked as Rice Rice fritters milk, prepare
cooked in in milk, frilters (see Raspberry Remove DE FRAMBOISES FRAMBoISES - Remove
BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS Raspberry fritters. stems, little kirsch. kirsch.
Drain, Drain, a little sprinkle with with a and sprinkle ligbtly, and stems, sugar
sugar lightly, dip with Drain, sprinkle sprinkle with hot fat. fat. Drain, fry in
in very very hot and fry dip in in batter, batter, and sugar, and serve. sugar, and
serve. Rice rice, as sweetened rice, as DE RIZ Rz -- Prepare Prepare sweetened
fritters BEIGNETS BEIGNETs DE Rice fritters. for tin, flat tin, on a a fiat layer
on in aa thick thick layer Spread in for a a dessert dessert course. course. Spread
and pieces. Dip and finish finish light batter batter and Dip in in light small
pieces. into small and cool. cool. Cut Cut into off as described fritters. for
Cream Creamfritters. recipe for the recipe in the offas describd in Rice DE RIZ Rtz
FOURRÉS rounnfs BEIcNETs DE fillings. BEIGNETS various fillings. fritters with with
various Rice fritters - Prepare preceding recipe, recipe, the preceding in the as
described described in the fritters fritters as Prepare the filling jam, jelly
jelly or fruit. of various various fruit. a salpicon salpicon of or a filling them
them with with jam, Rice A LA CRÈME Prepare DE RIZ RIz À cninre -- Prepare BEIGNETs
DE fritters. BEIGNETS Rice cream cream fritters. sweetened leave to to flat tin,
tin, and and leave layer on on aa fiat it in in aa layer rice, spread spread it
sweetened rice, cool. (l| inches) pieces 4 in diameter. diameter. 4 cm. inches) in
cm. (lt round pieces cool. Cut Cut into into round Sandwich rather layer of of aa
rather together with with aa layer circlets together Sandwich these these circlets
thick (see CREAMS). pastry cream ueern (see CREAMS). Frmch pastry thick French Dip
andsprinkle sprinkle fat. Drain, Drain, and very hot hot fat. fry in in very Dip in
in batter and fry batter and with sugar. with sugar.
sweetenSemolina fritters. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS DB DE sEMouLE SEMOULE - Prepare Prepare
sweetenSemolina proceed as described in the recipe for Rice ed semolina and proceed

fritters. fritters.

Shrove-Tuesday fritters fritters (Alsatian (Alsatian cookery). cookery). BEIcNETS

BEIGNETS DE ShroveTuesday of MARDI-GRAS - Prepare a a noodle paste with with the
addition of MARDr-cRAs
(1 inch). inch). Cut into a thickness of 5 mm. mm. (t butter. Roll out to a fry in
in sizzling sizzling oil, deep fry and deep cutter, and with a a pastry cutter,
shapes with cinnamon. Sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon. drain. Sprinkle

( I'arousse) Soufflé fritters (Larousse) Souffi€ friuers

Soufflé (or Pets BEIcNETS SOCFFLÉS sourrr6s nonne). BEIGNETS de nonne). I (or Peb
de fritters 1 Soufl6 fritters quart) generous quart) (lt pints, pints, generous Mix
1 I litre litre (Il - Mix salt, water, lf teaspoons teaspoons salt, (7 oz., g. (7
cup) butter, butter, It scant cup) oz., scant water, 200 200 g. in aa and to the
the boil, boil, in bring to and bring (4 oz., g, (4 cup) sugar sugar and oz., t and
100 100 g. * cup) (1 lb. 6 g. (lIb. 6 oz., oz., saucepan. 625 g. ua625 heat. Pour
Pour in from the the heat. saucepan. Remove from 5t on saucepan back back on Put
the the saucepan well. Put Mix weil. flour. Mix sieved fiour. 5f cups) cups) sieved
the mixture until the the mixture spoon until a wooden wooden spoon with a hea!
stirring stirring with the heat., cornes and becomes becomes the saucepan saucepan
and sides of of the from the the sides away from comes away sJightly one at at aa
12 eggs, eggs, one heat and and add add 12 from heat Remove from slightly oily.
oily. Remove time, vigorously. stirring vigorously. time, stirring Drop hot, but
but paste,'one at into hot, timg into at a a time, of the the paste,one Drop
spoonfuls spoonfuls of not temperagradually increase the temperaincrease the fat,
then then gradually not boiling, deep fat, boiling, deep ture the fat. fat. ture of
ofthe When the fat fat from the golden, remove them from remove them are golden,
the fritters fritters are When the and in individual individual Fill as as
indicated indicated in sugar. Fill fine sugar. with fine and sprinkle sprinkle with
jams, etc. recipes, etc. creams, jams, various custards, custards, creams, with
various recipes, with Soufflé g' 250 g. Prepare 250 sourrrrs -- Prepare sslcNnrs
SOUFFLÉS II. BEIGNETS fritters II. Soufl6 fritters (9 the Divide the (see DOUGH)
sugar. Divide (9 oz.) paste (see without sugar. DOUGH) without Chou paste oz.) Chou
paste after Drop one oneafter walnut. Drop portions the of aa smaIJ small walnut.
size of paste into the size into portions the fat. not boiling boiling fat. hot but
but not the other other into into hot Cook are crisp crisp fritters are the
fritters paste has risen and and the has risen until the the paste Cook until on on
aacloth, cloth, golden coloured. Drain well well on coloured. Drain and golden the
outside outside and on the and and season. season. Strawberry strawHull the
thestrawFRAIsEs - - Hull DE FRAISES BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Strawberry
fntters. berries in the the asdescribed described in Finish as in liqueur. liqueur.
Finish them in and steep steep them berries and recipe fruit fritters. for Fresh
Freshfruit recipe for fritters. Stuffed rounnfs, BEIGNETs FOURRÉS, fritters.
BEIGNETS srrprise fritters. fritterg called calledsurprise Shffed fritters, EN
recipe in the therecipe asdescribed described in fritters as the fritters Prepare
the EN SURPRISE suRpRISE -- Prepare for IL for Souffié Souffii fritters fritters
II. Drain, usingaa fill them, them,using and fil! theside sideand sliton on the
small slit makeaasmall Drain, make forcing-bag, (see CREAMS), pastry cream CREAMS),
crecon(see French pastry with French forcing-bag, with jam, jarn,fruit puree or
asindicated. indicated. salpicon, as orsalpicon, fruit purée Tangerine
DEMANDARINES. MANDARINES, BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS otange fritters. or orange
Tangerine or D'ORANGES sections, intosections, oranges into ororanges thetangerines
tangerines or Divide the D'oRANcns - - Divide trim asdescribed described finishas
andfinish and liqueur liqueur and sugar and steep in insugar trim them, them,steep
in fruit fritters. for Fresh Freshfruit recipefor in the therecipe fritters. Vienna
vIENNoIs, BEIGNETS VIENNOIS, fritters. BEIGNETS Dauphine fritters. orDauphine
Vienna fritters fritters or BEIGNETS (18oz., g.(18 4jcups) cups) oz.,4t 500g.
Ingredients. 500 DAUrHINE - - Ingredients. BEIGNETs DAUPHINE sieved g. 20g. eggs,20
(7oz., g.(7 cup)butter, butter, 66eggs, scantcup) oz.,scant 200g. sieved Rour,
flour,200 (t oz., 2 table(1,o2.,2 g.(1 table' 25g. yeast,2t salt,25 2tteaspoons
teaspoons salt, o".,1I cake) cake)yeast, Goz., spoons) milk' (6 tablespoons,
cup)milk. scant ] cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (6 sugar, 1I dl. spoons)sugar,
(PETS (rurs DE NoNNr) on NOl\'NE)

397 397
FRITTO-MISTO FRlTTO-MISTO
Method. Mix Mix the ingredients to paste as the ingredients to make make aa paste
asdescribed described Melhod. in the the recipe recipe for forBrioche Brioche
dough, (see DOUGH). dough, ordinary ordinary (see DOUGH). Roll Roll in pastry to
out the the pastry (|-inch). Place to aa thickness thickness of ofj-cm. Place
spoonfuls spoonfuls out i-cm. (k-inch). of the the filling filling indicated:
indicated :cream, cream, custard, custard,salpicon salpicon of of fruit, fruit,
etc., etc. , of regularly spaced spaced on pastry. Moisten on the the pastry.
Moisten the the edges edges of of the the regularly pastry and and cover cover with
piece of with aasecond pastry of second piece of rolled-out rolled-out pastry of
pastry the same same size and thickness size and thickness as as the first. Stamp
the firs!. Stamp out out the the fritters fritters the with aa round round cutter,
(2 inches) cutter, about about 5 inches) in 5 cm. cm. (2 in dia diameter. Lay me
ter. Lay with them on on a a baking baking tray tray covered covered with with a a
c10th cloth sprinkled sprinkled with with them flour. Leave Leave to place for to
rise rise in in a a warm warm place for 30 30 minutes. minutes. fiouL Drop the the
fl'itters fritters into into very very hot hot deep deep fat fat and and cook cook
until until they they Drop are weil golden colour. well done done and and acquire
acquire a a golden colour. are Drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine
sugar. sugar. Drain,

(Itelian cookery) FRITTO-MISTO (ItaJian cookery) -- ln In France Franoe this this

dish dish is is FRITTO-MISTO 'friture à called 'frilure d /'italienne'.
I'italienne'. called prepared from It is pieces of is preparcd from pieces of ca
calves' head; brain; brain; spinal spinal Il Ives' head; (of sheep bone-marrow (of
sheep and and calves); calves); testicles; lambs' feet; testicles; lambs' feet;
bone-marrow rice and and egg egg croquettes; croquettes; fried fried bread; bread;
slices slices of ofsaut€ed calves' sautèed calves' rice .liver. '>Iiver. Some are
are dipped dipped in in /lour-and-egg flour-and-egg bat batter, others in in egg
egg Sorne ter, others and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. They They are are fried fried
in in deep deep fat fat or or sautèed saut6ed in in and prepared in butter. Frillo-
mislo, Fritto-misto, prepared in this this \Vay, way, makes makes an unusual an
unusual butter. and tasty tasty lunchcon luncheon dish. dish. and

FROG. GRENOUILLE cRENoUTLLE Web-footed amphibian amphibian of of which - Web-footed

FROG, there are are about about 20 20 species. species. Among Among those those to
to be found in in be found there France are green or are the the green ot common
commonfrog, the ruSly rusty or or mule mute frog, France frog, the so-called
because the male male has has no no voice-box. voice-box. In In the the United so-
called because the United States there there is is a a very very large large
species species called called the the bull bull frog or frog or States bellowing
frog. Thts creature creature is twice the size of of the the types types frog. This
bellowing is twice the size indigenous to to Europe. Europe. indigenous Frog mea!,
meat, whicb which is is no no more than a a titbit, titbit, is easily is easily
Frog more than digestible. digestible. The frogs frogs eaten eaten in France
usually in France come from central The usually come from central Europe. They They
are are very Europe. very muscular, muscular, and and plumper plumper than than the
the local local varieties, varieties, but but French French frogs, frogs,
especially especially those those of of Sologne Sologne and the Dombes, have
subtler and the Dombes, have more more delicate delicate flesh flesh and and a a
subtler flavour. flavour. The The quality qua lit y of of the the frogs frogs of of
the the Dombes Dombes fully fully justifies justifies their more expensive.
expensive. their being being more Preparation Preparalion. Skin Skin the the frogs
frogs and and remove rem ove the the breast, breast, retainretaining only the legs,
ing only the legs, which which alone alone are are edible. edible. Cut Cut off off
the the feet. feet. Skewer Skewer the the legs legs and and immerse immerse them
them in in very very cold cold water. wateL Change every 2 Change the the water
water every 2 hours hours to to whiten whiten and and swell sweU the the flesh. Dry
the the legs legs thus thus prepared prepared and and cook cook thern them
according according flesh. Dry to one or other of the recipes to one or other of
the recipcs set set out out below. below. Usually Usually 3 3 pairs pairs per per
serving serving are are allowed. allowed. Frogs' Frogs' leS legs i à I'anglaise.
l'anglaise. cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A À r'lNGrArsE L'ANGLAISE Season Season the the
frogs' frogs' legs legs with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Flour Flour
them them and and dip in egg and breadcrumbs. dip in egg and breadcrumbs. Saut6
Sauté in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them on of Maite Maftre d'h6tel
d'hôtel butter bUller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, ComComon a a bed bed of pound pound
butters). bUl/ers). Serve Serve with with boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. This
This dish dish is is called called d à l'anglaise, l'anglaise, because because this
this is is the the name name given given to to food food which which is is dipped
dipped in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and then then fried.
fried. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs ià Ia la b6chamel. béchamel, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES
A À Lt LA sfcnAMH. BÉCHAMEL Season Season the the frogs' frogs' legs legs with with
salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Put Put them them in in a a pan frying with a
little butter and I tablespoon white wine. wine. frying pan with a liltle butter
and 1 tablespoon white Cover, and cook cook over over a a high high flame. flame.
Cover, and Add Add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Bdchamel
Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) mixed mixed with with some sorne fresh
fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer for for a a few few moments. moments. Add Add !1
tablespoon tablespoon butter. butter. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs as as a a border,
border, au au gratin. gratin, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES EN EN BoRDUREs, BORDURES,
curw6ns GRATINÉES - Prepared Prepared like like Frogs' Frogs' legs legs d à la la
Mornay Mornay (see (sec below), below), but but served served as as a a garnish.
garnish. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs in in cream. cream. cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A ÀLA
LA cnh,re CRÈME- Cook Cook the the frogs' Frogs' legs legs h à la la bdchamel.
béchamel. Boil Boil some sorne fresh fresh frogs' legs legs as as for for Frogs'
cream and pour pour over over the the frogs'legs. frogs' legs. Boil Boil down down
and and serve. serve. cl'eam and
398 398

Curried frogs' frogs' legs. legs. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs À A L'INDIENNE r'rNomNlre

-- Sauté Saut6 Curried the frogs' frogs' legs legs in in butter. butter. Serve
Serve them them in in aa border border of of curried curried the (see SAUCE) rice,
with with Curry poured over. Curuy sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) poured over. rice, Fried
frogs' frogs' legs. legs. GRENOUILLES cnrNourllEs FRITES FRrrEs -- Soak Soak the
the frogs' frogs' Fried legs in in aa marinade marinade for for 30 minutes, as 30
minutes, for Frogs' as for Frogs' legs legs legs fril/ers fritters (see HORS-
D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'œuvre), proceed in hors-d'euvre), and and
proceed in (see the same same way for that way as as for that recipe. recipe. the
The frogs' frogs' legs legs may may also also be be dipped dipped in in flour flour
and and fried fried in in the the The usual way. way. usual Frogs' legs legs
frilters. fritters. BEIGNETS BErcNErs DE DE GR GRENoUTLLES See Frogs' ENOUILLES --
See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, t la la
lyonnaise, lyonnaise. GRENOUILLES Frogs'legs cRENourLLEs À A LA r,c, LYONNAISE
ryoNNArs -Frogs' legs à Season the the frogs' frogs' legs legs and dip them them in
and dip in /louL flour. Sauté Saut6 in in butter butter Season over a very high a
very high fla flame. When tbey they are are weIl well browned, add over me. When
add (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) finely finely chopped
chopped onion onion lightly lightly 2 browned in in butter. butter. Sauté Saut6 the
the frogs' frogs' legs legs and and onions onions together. browned together.
parsley. Serve Sprinkle with with choppcd chopped parsley. Serve with with a a
sauce sauoe made made by Sprinkle by heating a a little little vinegar vinegar in
in the the cooking cooking butter. heating Frogs' legs legs à la meunière. i la
meunidre. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs À A LA LA MEUNIÈRE raBuNGnE -Frogs' Season and
and flour flour the frogs' legs, the frogs' legs, and and sauté saut6 them them in
in butter. butter. Season Arrange them them in in a serving dish a serving dish and
and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped Arrange juice over parsley. Squeeze
Squeeze a a few few drops pour drops of of lemon lemon juice over and and pour
parsley. on the the cooking cooking butter, butter, which which has has been been
heated until until it it turns on brown. If necessary, necessary, add a little
little fresh add a fresh butter. butter. Serve Serve at at once. brown. legs à I la
la Mirepoix. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs À A LA t-A, MIREPOIX MrREpoD( Frogs' legs
Season and and flour the the frogs' frogs' legs, legs, and and sauté saut6 in in
butter. butter. When Season add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) vegetable they are cooked, add mirepoix (q.v.) which has has been
slowly cooked cooked in butter mirepoü: butter until until tender. tender. a very
high flame and and mix weiL well. To serve serve pour Cook over a 2 tablespoons (3
tablespoons) concentrated meat stock over the mixture and and sprinkle with chopped
parsley. the \Vith chopped parsley. Frogs' legs t la la Mornay. GRENOULLLES
cRENourLLEs À A re uonN^a,y Frogs' legs à LA MORNAY Cook the frogs' legs gently in
a little white wine, butter, and Cook lemon juice. and dry them with a cio cloth.
juice. Drain and th. Serve them on an ovenproof ovenproof dish lined Iined with
Mornay Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and surrounded with with a a border of
Duchess potatoes with Morney (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). Cover Cover with Morney
sauce sauce to pOlaloes (see which the pan Sprinkle with cheese pan juices juices
have been been added. Sprinkle and and pour pour on meltod melted butter. Brush
Brush the border with beaten egg yolk. Brown in the oven or under the tbe grill.
yolk. Brown Frogs' Frogs' legs legs i à la la nigoise. niçoise, cRENourLLEs
GRENOUILLES A À u LA NrQorsE NiÇOISE Proceed Proceed as as for for Frogs' Frogs'
legs legs d à la la mirepoix, mirepoix, substituting substituting Tomatofondue
Tomatofondue d à Ia la nigoise niçoise (see TOMATO) for for the the mirepoix.
mirepoix. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs with witb chopped parsley. cRENoUTLLES
GRENOUILLES AUx AUX FrNES FINES HERBES HERBES - Season the frogs' frogs' legs
with \Vith salt and pepper. pepper. Dip in flour ftour and saut6 sauté in in butter
butter over over a high high flame. flame. When When they they are are cooked and
well browned, browned, sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Squeeze Squeeze
the the juice juice of of a a lemon lemon over over them them and and poru pour on
on the the butter butter in in which which they they have have been been cooked.
cooked. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs ià la la poulette. poulette, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES
A À ra LA pourerre POULEHE Cook Cook the the frogs'legs frogs' legs gently gently
in in a a little litt le white white wine, wine, with with butter butter and and a
a squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Season Season with with salt salt
and and pepper. pepper. Add Add a a small smalt onion onion and and a a bouquet
bouql/el garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). As As soon soon as as the add peeled, peeled,
sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. the liquid liquid comes cornes to to the the
boil, boil, add Cover Cover and and simmer. simmer. Drain Drain the the frogs'legs
frogs' legs and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Strain Strain the the stock stock and and
boil boil it it down. down. Thicken Thicken with with egg egg yolks yolks and and
cream, cream, as as for for Poulette Pou/elle sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Put Put the the frogs' frogs' legs legs and and mushmushrooms rooms back back in in
the the sauce sauce and and heat. heat. Add Add Il tablespoon tablespoon fresh
fresh butter, butter, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, and and a a squeeze squeeze
of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs prepared prepared in in
this this way way can can be be served served in in a a pie pie crust crust or or a
a vol-au-venl. vol-au-vent. They They are are then then called called timbales
timbales or or volvolau-vent au-vent offrogs' of frogs' legs legs d à la
lapoulette. poulette. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs sautded sautéed Ià la la provengale.
provençale, cnsNoururs GRENOU1LLF,S slur6es SA UTÉES A À le LA pnovnNgAlE
PROVENÇALE , - Saut6 Sauté the the frogs' frogs' legs legs in in butter butter or
or oil, oil, as Frogs' legs legs d à ld la'lyonnaise. lyonnaise. Add Add a a little
Iittle crushed cru shed garlic garlic as for for Frogs' and and chopped chopped
parsley. parsley.
FRUIT

(Laroasse) Dried fruits (Larousse) Citrus frulls fruits Citrus

liver. (See FROMAGE D'ITALIE pig's liver. Dish made made from pig's FROMAGE - Dish
OFF AL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS.) OFFAL FROMAGE In former times, plain ices
moulded FROMAGE GLACÉ GLACE - ln glacd in France. into conical shapes were calJed
fromage glacé calledy'omage The na me fromage fromage bavarois The name was used
for the the cold cold sweet bavarois was used for made made from from a a mixture
of custard and and whipped cream, cream, now called bavarois V ARIAN CREAM).
bavarois (see BA BAVARIAN CREAM). grated cheese FROMAGER-To add add grated to a
sauce, stuffing, cheese to a sauce, kind of or of dough; or any any kind dough; or
or to to sprinkle sprinkle it it over over food food to to be browned in the oyen.
oven. The cheeses most commonly used for for commonlv used
this purpose are Parmesan Parmesan and and Gruyère. Gruydre.

FROMENTEAU FROMENTEAU - Variety of table grapes. FRONTIGNAN H6rault district which

FRONTIGNAN town of the the Hérault - Small town has has given its name name to a a
heavy type of Muscatel wine.

fruit is of any the ovary FRUIT Botanically speaking, speaking fruit is the ovary
of - BotanicaJly growing plant. In current usage, growing usage, however, 'fruit'
refers only to those which may be eaten as dessert. Sorne fact, are are eaten as as
vegetables, for for example, example, Some fruits, in fact, pumpkins, marrows,
gourds, cucumbers, aubergines, cucumbers, olives, aubergines, pumpkins, tomatoes,
tomatoes. etc. ln In terms of calories some of the commoner fruits fruits have
calories sorne of the little little food food value, value, except except for for
those those with with a a high high starch, starch, oil, or sugar content. However,
it is is from fruit that we we get, in a minerals as form which is is readily
assimilated, essential minerais as weJl well as because of vitamins. Also, Also,
because as ail all the precious health-giving health-giving vitamins. quencher. its
water content, fruit is is an excellent excellent thirst quencher. Dried fruit.
FRUITS SECS sEcs - Included under this heading are naturally dry hazelnuts,
walnuts, dry fruits fruits such such as as almonds, almonds, hazelnuts, etc.,
Artfficially dried dried fruits etc., rich rich in in fats fats and and albumen.
albumen. Artificially prunes, raisins, raisins, etc.) (apricots, cherries, figs,
apples, apples, pears, prunes, cherries, figs, preparation. Ali provide are All
these these provide further preparation. are eaten eaten without without further
very concentrated nourishment. they are are soaked and nourishment. When they
qualities of quite ail cooked, have not not quite all the the qualities cooked,
although although they they have fresh fresh fruit, fruit, they a useful they
provide a useful substitute. Fruit ices. AI-rx FRUITS FRUITs The basic basic syrup
consists ices. GLACES cLAcEs AUX - The of 4 cups sugar to 2 cups for 5 minutes and
cups of water boiled for te density cooled. gives an 18" to of 18° to 22' 22"
density of cooled. This This gives an approxima approximate when To this this cold
cold syrup syrup when measured measured on on a a saccharometer. saccharometer. To
various fruit fruit pulps or juices are added. juices. sucs (rus) DE Fruit juices.
FRUITs sucs (JUs) DE FRUITS - Fruit juices, obtained it, are are by cooking or by
by squeezing it, a !ittle little water, water, or fruit with with a by cooking
fruit very popuJar popular especially suffering from as drinks for persons
suffering especially as feverish illnesses.
399 399

Most of commercially. Most are also also extracted extracted commercially. Fruit
juices Fruit juices are sterilised by by sorne some means these are excellent,
excellent, especiaJly especially those sterilised have considerable food other than
They have food value, other than boiling. boiling. They with that that of milk.
comparable with pAIN DE DE FRU1TS FRUITs a charlotte mould with with Fruit mould.
murld. PAIN - Coat a jelly (made (made of the a thick layer of jelly the same same
fruit as as the the mixture mixture a used in the the centre). to be used centre).
mould with a has set, fill fill the middle of the mouJd a fruit When this has (see
BA prepared in BAVARIAN CREAM) prepared bavarois mixture (see VARIAN CREAM) any
cream. a layer advance but without adding any cream. Coyer Cover with a of jelly.
of jelly. Chili Chill on ice. AU VINAIGRE vINAIGRE Pickled Pickld fruits. fruits.
FRUITS CONFITS coNFITS AU - Pour vinegar jars; add glass or add enough enough fine
fine sugar sugar to into into gJass or stone stone pickling jars; is sharp sharp
without being tum turn the mixture into into a a syrup syrup which which is a few
few weeks the too sour. too sour. Add the the fruit to be pickled. After a syrup
and and will fruit will be thoroughly impregnated with the syrup for eating. be
ready for fruit same as fruit fruit may may be be used used for for the the sa me
purpose as Pickled fruit preserved in more commonly served as as a a commonly
served but is is more preserved in brandy, brandy, but condiment. Ingredients for
l0 people. salad. FRUITS FRUITs RAFRAÎCHIS Rlrnelcrns -- Ingredients Fruit salado
for 10 greengages, 3 ripe pears, 2 2 apples, apples,4 peaches, 6 6 peaches, 4 6
apricots, 6 greengages, (4 oz., (4 oz., g. (4 g. (4 raspberries, 100 100 g. oz'
bananas, oz., scant cup) cup) raspberries, bananas, 100 g. (mixed), 100 (4 oz., g.
(4 grapes (mixed), 100 g. black grapes scant scant cup) cup) white white and and
black (+ dl. (t 24 fresh fresh almonds, almonds, 3 3 dl. seant ail strawberries, 24
scant cup) small cup) sm pint, H or 6 6 tablespoons tablespoons lf, cups) and/or
maraschino, 5 or pint, cups) kirsch and/or fine sugar. peaches, pears, and and cut
cut them them Method. Peel and apples apples and Method. Peel the peaches, pieces.
Peel and cut cut them them into into strips. strips. the bananas and into little
pieces. Peel the greengages and cut them thern up. up. and greengages and cut Stone
the apricots and strawAdd two-thirds of the the strawMix ail in a a bowl. bowl. Add
this fruit in all this with two-thirds two-thirds of of the Decorate with berries
berries and and raspberries. raspberries. Decorate pour on grapes. Sprinkle on the
the liqueur. top and grapes. Sprinkle the the sugar sugar on on top and pour
properly dish so so that the the various fruits are properly Gentle shake the the
dish larger bowl bowl containing containing crushed mixed. Put Put the bowl into
into a a Jarger the bowl ice. ice. Leave for for 1 I hour. glass bowl (or a a glass
a special double Transfer Transfer the fruit salad salad to a the top top of of
container). Surround crushed ice. ice. Decorate the Surround with crushed
strawberries, raspberries, raspberries, the the fruit salad the remaining
strawberries, salad with the grapes, and grapes, almonds. and blanched blanched and
and halved almonds. The ingredients The ingredients of of a a fruit fruit salad
salad vary vary according according to to the pineapples, season. All kinds kinds
of fruit fruit may may be be used, used, such such as as pineapples, season. Ail
plums, cherries, oranges, oranges, nectarines, nectarines, mirabelle mirabelle
plums, cherries, etc. It may may etc. It also also be be made from from fruit fruit
preserved in in syrup. syrup. Instead of sweetening sweetening it with sugar,
sugar, syrup syrup may may be poured Instead
FRUIT FRUIT
onto onto the the fruit fruit salad, salad, and and any any liqueur liqueur may may
be be used used for flavouring. flavouring. Fruit Fruit salad can be served as a
dessert course or
Fruit Fruit salad salad i à la cr6ole. créole. FRUITS FRUITS na.rR.q.lcHrs
RAFRAîCHIS A À ra LA cn6ols CRÉOLE Macddoine Macédoine of of fruit fruit made made
from from bananas, pineapples and oranges oranges finely finely sliced, sliced,
sprinkled sprinkled with rum and sugar sugar and left to to stand stand in in ice.
ice. It It is is served in in a glass glass bowl bowl (or (or a special special
double double container) container) on a a bed bed of of pineapple pineapple ice
ice cream. Pour Pour on lightly lightly whipped whipped sweetened sweetened fresh
fresh cream cream flavoured flavoured with with rum. Decorate Decorate the the top
top with \Vith orange orange segments segments and and blanched pistachio pistachio
nuts. nuts. Fruit Fruit salad with with kirsch. kirsch. FRUrrs FRUITS RAFRAIcHTs
RAFRAÎCHIS AU AU KrRscH KIRSCH Use Use all ail the the fruits fruits in season:
season: strawberries, strawberries, cherries, peaches, peaches, apricots, apricots,
grapes, grapes, almonds, alrnonds, etc., etc., with with stalks, stalks, stones,
stones, skins removed. removed. Some Sorne are are sliced, sliced, others others
left left whole. whole. Sprinkle with with sugar, sugar, mix mix without without
bruising, bruising, pour pour kirsch kirsch over, over, and and place place in in a
a larger larger bowl bowl full of of crushed crushed ice. ice. Instead lnstead of
of sugal sugar, the the fruit fruit salad salad may may be be sweetened with with a
very very heavy hea vy syrup. syru p. Fruit Fruit salad salad i à la la maltaise.
maltaise. FRUrrs FRUITS n.crRAlcHrs RAFRAîCHIS A À ra LA uelrelsr MAL TAISE -
Macddoine Mactidoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of fruit fruit made rnade from from oranges,
oranges, bananas, bananas, cherries, cherries, and and pineapples, pineapples, left
left to to soak soak with with sugar sugar and and Curagao. Curaçao. Serve Serve in
in a a glass glass bowl bowl or or special special double double container
container on on a bed bed of of orange orange ice ice cream. cream. Cover Cover
with with whipped whipped cream. cream. Decorate Decorate with with segments
segments of of orange. orange. Fruit Fruit salad saJad ià la la normande. normande.
rRurrs FR L'ITS nnrnq.lcHrs RAFRAîCHIS A À LA LA NoRMANDE NORMANDE - Make Make a a
macidoine macédoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of fruit fruit from from russet russet or or
tart tart apples, app1es, fresh fresh pineapple, pineapple, and and bananas.
bananas. Soak Soak this this mixture mixture in in sugar sugar and and Calvados.
Calvados. Serve Serve in in a a glass glass bowl bowl or or special special double
double container. container. Cover Cover
as as a salad course. course.

with lightly beaten cream which has beaten fresh cream has been been sweetened
with sugar sugar and flavoured fiavoured with calvados. calvados. Fruit Fruit salad
salad i à I'occitanienne. l'occitanienne. FRUrrs FRUITS nc.FRAlcHrs RAFRAîcHIS A À
L'occITANIENt{s L'OCCITANIENNE - Place sliced pears, black black and white grapes,
and a bowl. Sprinkle with and peeled peeled figs figs cut cut into into slices,
slices, in in a bowl. Sprinkle sugar and pour on Blanquette Blanquette de de Limoux
(q.v.) and and a little brandy. brandy. Surround Surround the the bowl bowl with
with ice ice mixed mixed with with a a little kitchen kitchen salt, so that the
fruit may be slightly congealed. congealed. Cover Cover with Chantilly Chantilly
cream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) and decorate decorate with with grapes. Fruit Fruit
salad Tsarina (Czarina). FRUrrs FRUITS nepn.llcHrs RAFRAîcHIS rzARrNE TZARINE - Put
mixed mixed fruit, whole or sliced, sliced, soaked soaked with sugar sugar and
kummel, on top of a a layer of pineapple ice cream. cream. Cover withChantilly
cream(see with Chantillycream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured with with kummel.
Decorate Decorate with crystallised violets violets and lozenge-shaped lozenge-
shaped pieces pieces of of angelica. angelica. Fruit Fruit sauces - See SAUCE, SA
UCE, Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Sugar-coated Sugar-coated and marzipan fruit.
rnurrs FRUITS pfcursns DÉGUISÉS - Small fruit (strawberries, blackcurrants,
blackcurrants, cherries, cherries, gooseberries, gooseberries, fruit (strawberries,
plums, plums, etc.), etc.), either fresh fresh or or preserved preserved in in
brandy, brandy, coated coated with Fondant Fondant icing (see ICING). lCING).
Marzipan fruits are a kind of of petit petit four four (q.v.) (q.v.) made from very
thick fruit pur6e purée mixed mixed with with almond almond paste, paste, or
sometimes times with with concentrated jam. jam. These These are moulded moulded
into the shape of various va rio us fruits and and covered with with caramel
caramel sugar.

FRUIT IN IN DIETETICS - The discovery of vitamins has has highlighted the the
importance of fruit in the diet. It must be borne in mind, mind, however, however,
that that digestive upsets upsets frequently frequently borne occur when when raw
raw fruit fruit is is eaten eaten in in conjunction conjunction with with a meat
meat diet. occur

Fruit salad salad Fruit

400 400
FUMET FUMET
Fruit Fruit contains contains the the following following elements elements in in
variable variable proproportions: portions: Water Water (85 (85 per per cent cent
average average for for juicy juicy fruit). fruit). Organic Organic acids acids
(principally (principally malic malic and and citric citric acids). acids).
Carbohydrates. Carbohydrates. Proteic Proteic substances. substances. Practically
Practically no no lipids lipids except except in in olives, olives, almonds,
almonds, and and walnuts. walnuts. Mineral Mineral salts. Vitamins. Vilamins.
Aromatic Aromatic essences essences (which give each each fruit fruit its its
particular particular flavour). flavour).

Jean-Camille FULBERT.DUMONTEIL Jean-Camille FulbeitFu 1be'rtFlJLBERT-DlJMONTEIL

Dumonteil Dumonteit was was a a French French writer writer and and a a great great
gastronome. gastronome. Born in the the Dordogne Dordogne in in 1830, 1830, he he
wrote wrote charming charming Born at at Vergt Vergt in articles articles on on the
the art art of of cookery cookery which which were were published published in in
the the journals, form form of of a a chronicle chronicle in in various various
journals, notably notably the the old old Figaro. Figaro. These These were wcre
collected eollected in in one one volume volume under under the the title tille
la la France France gourmande. gourmande.

FUMET FlJMET - Name Name given given to to a a number number of of different

different liquids liquids

FRUITARIAN. FRt;ITARIAN. rnucrvoRE FRUGIVORE

- A person person who who lives lives exexclusivelyon fruit and vegetables,
vegetables, believing believing that that man man should on fruit clusively feed
only on that that which can be be eaten in the the natural natural state state in
in which it grows. grows. which

- A

FRUITERY. FRUITERY.

FRUITERIE, FRUITERIE, rntnrrEnr FRUITIÈRE - Special Special storage place place

fruit. Fruitiire Fruitière is is the the name given given to to a a cheese cheese
factory for fruit.
usually the mountains lllountains near near pastures. paslures. usually situated in
the

Soft part FRlJIT KERNEL. NoYAU NOYAU - Soft pari within within hard hard shell of
of FRUIT nut or stone fruit. Fruit kernel liqueur. cniirrlr CRÈME DE DE NoYAUx
NOYAUX - Liqueur which Fruit (See LIQUEUR.) has fruit kernels as a basis. (Sec
Implement for FRUIT FRlJIT STONE CRACKER. fNovlursun ÉNOYAUTEUR -lmplement for
such cracking cracking the stones of of certain fruits, su ch as cherries,
cherries, without without completely. crushing them completely.
-

rnorr{sNrm FRlJMENTY. FROMENTÉE FRUMENTY.

flour.

from wheat Porridge Porridge made made from

FRYING FRYlNG

CULINARY FRYING; CULINARY DEEP FRYING; SEC DEEP See METHODS, SaUlés. Sautis.
METHODS,

pan with long handle, a long with a Po€LE - ShaJlow Shallow pan PAN. POÊLE FRYlNG
PAN. handle, FRYING used for frying food. used pan for for roasting and a a pan pan
is in shape, and is oval in fish frying pan A fish chestnuts chestnuts is
perforated on the bottom.
scales, rather sold in in the the fonn form of purple scaJes. FUCIISINE FlJCHSINE -
Dye sold is somesmell. It is in taste and and somewhat somewhat unpleasant in
smel!. sweet in wines and for wine.~ and foodstuffs. colouring times used used as
as artificial col times ou ring for

which which are are used used to to flavour flavour or or give give body body to to
stocks stocks and and sauces. sauces. Fumets Fumels are are prepared prepared by by
boiling boiling foodstuffs foodstuffs of of one one kind kind or or another anolher
either either in in stock stock or or in in wine. wine. or Fumets Fumets should
should not not be be confused confused with with essences, essences, extracts,
extracts, or concentrates. concentrates. Chicken Chicken ftrmel fumet. FUMEr FUMET
DE DE VoLAILLEVOLAILLE - Chicken Chicken broth, broth, made made by by boiling
boiling down down chicken chicken stock stock (see (see STOCKS). STOCKS). poultry .
This This fumet fumet is is used used to to add add flavour flavour to to various
various poultry dishes dishes which which are are served served with with a a
sauce. sauce. Stock made Fish Fish frrmet. fumet. FsMEr FUMET DE DE PoIssoN POISSON
- Stock made from l'rom the the bones bones and and trimmings trimmings of of fish,
fish, the the flesh flesh being being prepared prepared separately. This Titis fish
fish stock stock is is very very much much boiled boiled down. down. It Il is is
used with with white white wine wine in in the the cooking cooking of of certain
certain fish, fish, and and also also special white in in the preparation
preparation of of speciaI white or or brown brown fish fish sauces. sauces. For For
the preparation preparation of of fishfumer, fish fumel, see sec STOCKS. STOCKS.
stock made GIBIER Game fumet. fumet. FUMET FL'MET DE DE GIBIER - Game Game stock
made with with down and trimmings the carcases and trimmings of of different
different game game boiled boiJed down to a concentrated to a concentrated
consistencY. consistency. Thisfumet FUMEr DE Mushroom ftrmet. fumet. FUMET DE
cHAMPIGNoNsCHAMPIGNONS - This fumet is is prepared completely reducing almost
completely prepared by aImost reducing the the cooking cooking liquid liquid of It
is of cultivated mushrooms. of cultivated mushrooms. Jt is used used to to improve
improve the the flavour flavour of sauces. certain sauces. PATE. Pit6 fumet- See
See PÂTÉ. Pâtéfumetused to enhance TRUFFEs FUMET DE Trufle fumet. Truffle fumet.
FUMET DE TRUFFES Fumel used to enhance - Fumet peelings are are simmered simmered
Truffie peelings sauces. Truffie of certain sauces. the flavour flavour of The
fumet is usually wine. The Madeira or or any any heavy in Madeira in heavy wine.
fumel is usually made made some other other used for are being themselves are when
the truffles trufres themselves when being used for sorne purpose. purpose. is This
fumet oE LÉG1J1I.!ES rEcurars FUMET DE frrmet. FUMET Vegetable fumet. - This fumel
is Vegetable made from from a stock stock made reducing a prepared by completely
reducing almost completely prepared by almost leeks, celery, celery, onions, leeks,
as carrots, such as carrots, onions, vegetables a variety of vegeta a bles such
etc. etc.

401 401
France for the redGADELLE Name used used in in western France for the - Name called
gade n currant, in Normandy. currant, which is called
small town in the Tarn GAILLAC - The white wines of this small a wide wide
reputation. Sorne Some are are sold in Paris as district enjoy a processed like
young wines; like Champagne and young wines; others others are are processed or
mousseux, according to become perlant, perlant, pitillant, pétillant, or to how
become 'bubbly' they are.

(French Government The vineyards of Gaillac Gaillac (French Ofice\ The Government
Tourist Office)

poultry or meat, GALANTII{E from boned poultry GALANTINE meat, - Dish made from
pressed into symmetrical shape. shape. Galantines are stuffed, and pressed into a
symmetrical stuffed, a gelatine stock. cooked in a probably derives derives from
the words giline The term tenn probably géline or galine was first chicken. for
this this dish was which in in old which old French meant chicken, and later,
towards the end of the sevenmade with poultry, and with other types types of bird,
cuts of meat, and teenth century, with fish. A sous-presse sous-presse of fish was
a form of galantine. even fish. a fonn galantines are made from other meats besides
Nowadays, galantines poultry, but strictly the word qualificaword'galantine'
'galantine' without without qualification denotes galantine of poultry. preparing
this cold dish. ways of preparing There are many ways (Car0me's recipe). I
(Carême's recipe). GALANTINE cALANTINE DE Galantine of chicken 1 IoULARDE À A LA
r,c, GELÉE cnrfE The forcemeat. 'Chop 250 g. POULARDE g. (9 (9 oz.) - The (8 oz.)
cooked g. (18 oz.) fat bacon and 225 g. g. (8 veal with 500 g. and225 ham. Mix in 4
teaspoons teaspoons Spiced Spiced salt salr (see SALT), SALT),2 2 egg yolks,
e5gyolks, (3 tablespoons) chopped and 2 tablespoons (3 chopped herbs herbs with the
and same quantity of truffies. Mix weil well and place in an earthenware dish. (t|
lb.) very ripe truffies. Cut each truffie truffie into 'Peel 750 g. (I~
402 402

red pickled tongue. Skin it and cut it quarters. Take a good red slices. Cut 500 g.
lengthwise into 6 slices. e. (18 oz.) raw fat ham into calf's udder. thick fingers
or use fresh pork fat or calf's thick fingers pluck, and 'Singe, pluck, a medium-
sized bone a The The chicken. chicken 'Singe, and bone plump plump chicken, and
open it out on a c1oth. half the cloth. Cut away half pieces thus removed removed
to breast and thighs. Use the pieces meat of of the breast so little flesh is so
ftesh that the skin is line the bird wherever there is that the so that almostthe
flesh ftesh may may be be evenly almost showing through, so an appropriate amount
amount of spiced distributed. distributed. Season with an (1 lb.) boned g. (1 salt,
that is 2 teaspoons teaspoons spiced salt per 500 g. flesh. ftesh. half the half
the forcemeat on the chicken, and lay half 'Spread half on top, top, making sure
that the fat on truffies, trufles, tongue, and and ham fat effect. Season Season
lightly with spiced colours present a mottled effect. a mottled salt. Coyer Cover
the whole with half the remaining forcemeat and pickled tongue, with and the
pickled lay trufles, the fat, layon fat, and on top the truffies, remaining
forceCover with with the the remaining a a little added added seasoning. Coyer
meat. 'Now fold the chicken back to its original shape, sewing it up with a a
trussing needle so that ail all the garnish is contained in the bird, which should
be moulded into into a round or slightly oval shape. 'Wrap slices of fat bacon
round the chicken. Fold a piece tightly with tying both ends tightly of muslin
round both ends round the the whole, whole, tying keep it it in string. a piece of
string round the middle to keep string. Tie a shape. 'Brown strips of fat bacon in
a casserole. Place the galan4 onions, 4 carrots, carrots, a onions, 4 a large
surround with tine in it and tine in it and surround with 4 parsley and Season with
with thyme, and spring spring onions. onions. Season bunch of parsley bunch laure
l, basil and 4 cloves. Add the bones of the chicken, and laurel, feet, enough
ofveal enough stock or chicken 4 knuckles of veal or 2 calf's feet, to coyer cover
the the galantine, then then 1 glass dry dry Madeira broth to Madeira or broth (3
tablespoons) old good 2 tablespoons (3 wine and and 2 good white white wine paper
and and brandy. Coyer Cover the whole with a piece of buttered paper a high high
ftame. flame. Then for 3 start to to cook cook over a Then simmer slowly for hours
and and remove from the stove. galantine out 'An hour out of of the 'An hour later,
la ter, carefully lift lift the the galantine Lay it it breast downwards on on a a
slightly slightly curved casserole. breast downwards casserole. Lay platter and
squeeze squeeze it gently, still still wrapped wrapped in the earthenware
earthenware platter muslin, to rem remove moi sture left in it. ove any moisture (8
lb.) weight, 'Cov€r with a 'Coyer a lid and and place on top a a 3| kg. (8 in order
to ftatten flatten and spread the chicken. jelly through through a sieve. Remove
Remove aU all fat 'Next, strain the jelly a fine sieve. for 15 Clarify by one of
the and leave it to 15 minutes. Clarify to settle for JELLY. Y. methods described
described under JELL gently with a 'When the galantine is cold, uncover it, dry it
gently remove all string. Coyer Cover it very carefully carefully ail all over ove
ail cloth, and and rem a white glaze. with a

3t
GALETTE
'Place on an entrie entrée dish. Arrange Arrange a rosette of of jelly jelly on the
top, surround surround with chopped jelly jelly and and then with rounds of top,
wooden board with with a weight on top. Allow Aliow to cool cool for at least 12
hours. It It can be kept for several days ifit if it is stored in a cool place. own
jelly, The galantine is served garnished garnished with its own jelly, which
JELLY). must be clarified clarified by the usual method (see JELL Y). of other
poultry may OTHER GALANTINES GALANTINES OTHER - Galantines of galanbe prepared by
the same same method as that indicated for galanofvarious game also be made
ofvarious tine of chicken. Galantines may tine of may also birds su such ch as
pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge, grouse, hazel-grouse, hazel-grouse, etc.,
altering the ingredients of the stuffing. altering The recipes for the various
galantines are given in alphabetical order under the name na me of each game bird.
prepared according to the method used Galantines may be prepared by pork butchers.
Instead of being wrapped in a cloth, they moulds. are put in special rectangular
rectangular metal or earthenware mou Ids. galantines, a certain amount improve tbe
the flavour flavour ofthese of these galantines, To improve grasmay
stuffing.Dicedfoie of foie gras may be added to the stuffing. ofjoie Dicedfoie gras
may to the salpicon. added to also be added

jelly jelly cut with a pastry cutter I 1 cm. (| (t inch) in diameter, diameter, and
serve. ' serve.'

of chicken chic ken II. c.cLINTINE GALANTINE DE PoULARDS POULARDE - For the
Galantine of (9 oz.) galantine. I 1 chicken weighing 2 ke. kg. (41b.), (41 lb.),
250 2S0 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) finely minced veal, 150 ISO g. 250 g. (9 finely minced
pork, 2S0 (5 and pickled (S oz.) oz.) each each of fat fat bacon, bacon, lean lean
cooked cooked ham, ham, and ISO g. (5 (S oz.) truffies, 25 2S g. g. (l (1 oz., I t
cup) pistachio pistachio tongue, 150 nuts, I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant ] t cup)
brandy,2 brandy, 2 eggs, salt, nuts, pepper, spices. spices. (18 oz.) fresh g. (18
500 g. For the the stock or jelly. jelly. 2 calf's feet, feet, SOO For (5* lb.)
fleshy bacon rind, 2t kg. kg. (st fleshy knuckle knuckle of veal, 2 carrots,
rind,2t bacon (4| quarts, 5 litres litres (4t 2leeks, 1 bouquet garni (q.v.),
(q.v.), S 1 onion, 2 leeks, I cups) Madeira, Madeira, 5j quarts) white stock, 4 dl.
(t pint, scant 2 cups) salt. pluck the bird. Remove Remove the feet and pinions.
Slit Singe Singe and pluck the chicken along the back and with a small very sharp
knife which at operaticin, which without tearing the flesh. flesh. (This operation,
bone it without It is simple. It first sight seems is actually fairly simple. first
sight seems awkward, awkward, is actually fairly necessary only to follow the the
joints of of the chicken and to work necessary shaving off off the flesh as close
to inwards towards the carcase, shaving operation separates possible. This first
first boning boning operation the bone as as possible. the chicken, leaving them
both ofthe the carcase carcase from the body of ove the bones from the legs and
wings, still remove whole.) Now rem being careful not to tear the skin. Spread out
the bird bird on the table and and cut away the breast part of the thighs and
fleshy portions of thighs and the fleshy and the the greater part used for wings.
Cut these pieces into squares, which will be used (q.v.) or meat ragoût the
salpicon ragofri in in which which the galantine is salpicon (q.v.) served. lean
pork The forcemeat. This is made of finely finely chopped lean The forcemeat. and
and veal veal in equal quantities. salt, pepper, and Pound it with with salt, Pound
in in a a mortar, mortar, seasoning it (To ob rub the mixture, mixture, spices.
tain a spices. (To a very very fine fine forcemeat, rub obtain after pounding,
pounding, through a sieve.) through a The dish the lean pieces The salpicon.
salpicon Place in an earthenware dish cut fat bacon, the the cooked lean cut away
from the chicken, the fat ham, ham, and the pickled tongue (all cut into squares),
the diced forcemeat, truffles, nuts. Add the forcemeat, truffies, and the blanched
pistachio nuts. the 2 eggs and the brandy. Mix thoroughly, thoroughly, adding
seasoning if necessary. necessary. galantine.Knead Preparation of Knead ail all the
forcemeat forcemeat into a a of the galantine. bail well spread out ball and lay it
on the chicken, chicken, which should be weil on the table. (From time to time, the
hands should should be dipped dipped in water to make it easier easier to work the
forcemeat.) Spread the it into into a a rectforcemeat evenly forming it over the
the chicken, fonning evenly over angular shape. shape. Fold over the parts of the
chicken skin which project at the the sides sides and and ends. Dip a it out, and
wring wring it out, then a coarse linen linen cloth in in water and spread it fiat
flap about 2S 25 cm. cm. so that a a flap flat on on the table. table. Place it so
(10 inches) wide hangs over the table. table. Place Place the over the the edge
edge of the (4 inches) galantine lengthwise on inches) l0 cm. cm. (4 about 10 on
this this clotb, cloth, about galanfrom the galantable, breast upwards. upwards.
Wrap the from the edge of the the table, possible. Tie tine in Tie both ends of of
the both ends as possible. in the the cloth as as tightly as galantine with cloth
securely. Tie the galantine in 3 places to keep with string string in it in in
shape. Method of The stock stock is made from the ingredients of cooking. The
preparation see Y. listed see JELL JELLY. listed above. the method method of of
preparation above. For For the giblets of To of the the add the the carcase carcase
and and giblets To the the ingredients ingredients listed, add chicken, with the
exception of of the the liver. chicken, with the exception galantine in Cook hours,
then in the for It lj hours, then lay the galantine Cook the stock stock for
galantine. stock the galantine. for 1 lf; bours. hours. Remove the stock and and
simmer gently for Let it Remove the unwrapping it. it. Remove it stand stand for
for IS 15 minutes before unwrapping cloth, rinse in Spread water and and wring
wring thoroughly. thoroughly. Spread in lukewann lukewarm water it on galantine in
it it as as before, wrap the galantine before, on the table table and and carefully
carefully wrap part of taking slit part the chicken chicken underneath. underneath.
taking care care to to keep keep the the slit of the Tie galantine. Press it on
slab, covering covering it it with with a a Tie up up the the galantine. Press it
on a a slab,

st

Galantine of eel, Galantine Car6me after Carême

jellied eels. A LA rl D'ANGULLr À clr.lNTINE D'ANGUILLE eels. GALANTINE Galantine

Galantine of of jellied instructions for to the the instructions according to the
eel eel according Frepare the - Prepare of eel (see EEL). Cook it in a fish stock,
drain, Co Id ballottine of Cold Unwrap a weight. U and allow to cool under a nwrap
the galantine and jelly. Place long dish, dish, and it on on a a long Place it the
half-set jelly. coyer cover with with the jelly made from stock. from the eel eel
stock. chopped jelly garnish with chopped
GELÉE cerfn -

GALATHEE to freshwater similar to Species of of shellfish shellfish similar

GALATHÉE - Species galathde parent species crayfish. The The parent species of of
this this shellfish, shellfish, the the galathée crayfish. grAk,is shores of of the
Atlantic and and on the European shores grêle, is common on prepared as in the
Mediterranean. Mediterranean. Galathée is prepared as indicated for for Galathde is
in (q.v.). lobster (q.v.) and and crayfish (q.v.).
slightly Frothy milk, milk, slightly GALAZYME, GALACTOZYNIE -- Frothy GALAZYI/IE,
GALACTOZYME (See small alcoholic alcoholic content. content. (See with a a very
very smaU fermented and and with fermented KEFIR.) KÉFIR.)

from (French Twelfth-Night Cake made from Twelfth-Night cake) GALETTE (French -
Cake galette is pastry. The symbolic cake cake eaten eaten on on The galette is the
the symbolic flaky flaky pastry. provinces north of Loire, of the the Loire,
Twelfth Night in in most most of the the provinces Twelfth notably in notably in
the the region of Paris. in the the south south of of France, France, the the
Loire, especially in South South of of the the Loire, yeast dough form of from
yeast dough in in the the fonn of Twelfth-Night cake cake is is made from Twelfth-
Night bean is is baked baked in in the a crown. In both cakes, the the symbolic
symbolic bean a crown. In both cakes, it used to be, be, a a real real bean, but is
This is is not al always, as it used to is dough. ways, as dough. This model either
either ofa of a baby emerging emerging sometimes sometimes a a small small
porcelain model (See FESTIVE FESTIVE figure. (See from a of some some other other
figure. from a bean bean or or of COOKERY.) cooKERY.) prunrrrEr -- Roll galette.
GALETTE pastry galette. Roll out flat out flat cALETTE FEUILLETÉE Flaky Flaky
pastry piece IS round piece 15 to cut from from it it a a round to some flaky flaky
pastry dough dough and and cut some (6to7 this on a slab. slab. Crimp l8 cm. in
diameter. diameter. Place Place this on a Crimp 18 to 7 inches) cm. (6 inches) in
mark out out the the top top in in the edges and brush brush over over with with
egg; egg; mark the edges and Bake in in a a hot hot oyen. oven. lozenge-shaped
segments. segments. Bake Sieve galettes. PETITES IETITES GALETTES cALETTES
ORANGINES onaNcNssSmall - Sieve orange galettes. Small orange place g. (9 (9 oz.,
In the 250 g. flour onto onto a a table. table. In the centre centre place 2S0 2i
cups) oz.,2f cups) flour (5 oz., (4 oz., g. (S g. (4t generous 1 150 g. oz., JO 10
tabletable125 g. oz., generous cup) sugar, sugar, ISO 12S * cup) zest of2 of2
oranges rubbed on spoons) salt, the a pinch of ofsalt, the zest oranges rubbed on
spoons) butter, a
403 403
GALICIEN GALICIEN

250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) butter, butter, I (1 o2.,2 oz., 2

tablespoons) 1 egg and I 1 yolk, I 1 teaspoon teaspoon salt, 25 g. (l sugar, I
vanilla. cream, vanilla. cup) fresh cream, 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1.up) Work
the flour with 50 g. (2 oz.,f oz., cup) of of the butter, butter, then add the
eggs, cream, salt, vanilla, and sugar. Leave to stand

(ll (II oz.,2f oz., 2~ cups) flour,

Rich Ricb galette. galette. cALErrE GALETTE

FoNDANTE FONDANTE -

Ingredienls. Ingredients. 300 300 g.

for l0 10 minutes.
Knead the dough and add the remaining remaining butter. Roll out and fold the dough
4 times as as is done for Flaky Flaky pastry (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Brush Brush
with with egg egg and lattice lattice it it with with a knife. Cook Cook in a hot
oven oyen and sprinkle, sprinkle, while hot, with powdered sugar. Savoury galettes.
g. (9 GALETTES ur6ns SALÉES - Knead Knead 250 g. (9 oz., galettes. cALErrEs 2|
cups) cups) sieved sieved flour with with 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., 10 10
tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, (i cup) cold milk milk and and lj H teaspoons
teaspoons butter, 8 tablespoons (J salt. Leave Leave to stand for 2 hours. Roll out
very thinly on a floured table, prick with a fork and inches) in diameter. Place
them and cut cut into rounds 5 5 cm. (2 inches) on a buttered buttered baking
baking sheet sheet and and brush with milk milk to which which salt has has been
been added. added. Bake in a hot oven oyen for 6 to 8 minutes. As soon as the oyen,
brush them the galettes are out of the oven, again with with salted salted milk.
milk.

2i

Flaky Flaky pastry pastry galettes galettes (Scarnati) (Scarnali)

rounds rounds with with a a fluted fluted cutter cutter 5 cm. cm. (2 inches)
inches) in in diameter. diameter. Place brush with egg egg Place them them on on a
buttered buttered baking baking sheet, sheet, brush beaten of sugar, sugar, and and
bake bake in in a a hot hot oven oyen for for 6 6 to to beaten with with a a pinch
pinch of 8 8 minutes. minutes. Galette de plomb plomb - Ingredients. Ingredients.
300 300 g. g. (ll (II o2.,2f, oz., 2~ cups) cups) Galette de sieved g. (7 (7 oz.,
oz., scant scant cup) cup) butter, butter, 1 1 whole whole egg, egg, sieved flour,
flour, 200 200 g. I1 yolk, yolk, I 1 teaspoon teaspoon fine fine sugar, sugar, 2 2
teaspoons teaspoons table table salt, I 1 to to 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons milk
milk or or cream. cream. Method. onto a a marble marble slab slab or or table,
table, and and Method. Sieve Sieve the the flour flour onto make make a a well weil
in in the the centre. centre. Dissolve Dissolve the the salt salt and and sugar
sugar in in I1 tablespoon or cream cream and and pour pour into into the the well.
weil. Knead Knead the the tablespoon milk milk or butter is malleable, malleable,
cut cut it it up up into into very very small small pieces pieces butter until
until it it is and dot these these about about in in the the circle circ1e of of
flour. flour. and dot Work Work the the butter butter and and the the flour flour
until until the the mixture mixture is is very very short. is done done by by
rubbing rubbing the the hands hands together together with with the the short. This
This is mixture of flour flour and and butter butter between between them. them.
Continue Continue to to mixture of shorten is entirely entirely shorten the the
dough dough in in this this way way until until the the butter butter is broken
broken up up into into very very small small particles. particles. Spread Spread
out out the the dough. dough. Beat pour over over the the Beat the the egg egg and
and yolk yolk as as for for an an omelette omelette and and pour dough. dough. Work
Work it it in in the the sa'me sa'me way way as as before, before, pressing
pressing the the hands hands more more and and more more tightly tightly together
together as as the the kneading kneading proceeds. proceeds. The The ingredients
ingredients in in the the dough dough should should moisten moisten it it
sufficiently sufficiently to it together. together. The The pastry pastry should
should be be fairly fairly limp. limp. If Ifit it is is a a to hold ho Id it little
little too too firm, firm, add add a a second second tablespoon tablespoon milk
milk or or cream. cream. (The (The amount amount of of moistening moistening
required required may may vary vary with with the the type type of of flour flour
used.) used.) When When the thedough dough is isthoroughly thoroughly kneaded,
kneaded, cover coyerwith with a a damp damp cloth, cio th, and and put put it it in
in a a cool cool place place for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Then Then flatten
flatten it it on on the the table table with with the the palm palm of ofthe the
hand, hand, flour flour it it lightly, lightly, and and fold fold into into three.
three. Roll Roll into into a a ball. baIl. Flatten Flatten it it into into a a
round round shape shape about about 2|cm. 21 cm. (l (1 inch) inch) thick. thick.
Crimp Crimp the the edges edges with with the the back back of of a a knife. knife.
Place Place on on a a lightly lightly buttered buttered baking baking sheet sheet
and and surround surround with with a a buttered buttered tart tart ring. ring.
Brush Brush the the top top with with the the beaten beaten egg egg and and trace
trace on on it it either either lozenges lozenges or or rosettes. rosettes. This
This last last is is the the characteristic de plomb. plomb. characteristic design
design for for the the Galette Galette de Bake 25 minutes minutes in in a a
moderate moderate oven. oyen. The The Galette Galette Bake for for 20 20 to to 25
de deplomb plomb is is eaten eaten lukewarm lukewann or or cold. cold. Potato
Potatogalettes. galettes. cALETTES GALETTESDE DE poMMES POMMES ns DE rEnRE TERRE-
These These can can be made made either either with with potatoes potatoes prepared
prepared as as for for Duchess Duchess be potatoes POT ATOES) or or with with
potatoes potatoes cut cut into into thin thin potatoes (see (see POTATOES) and are
are discs. They They are are used used as as a a garnish garnish for for various
various dishes, dishes, and discs. ofmeat, poultry, sometimes served served topped
topped with with small small pieces pieces of sometimes meat, poultry, or or fish.
fish.
404 404

lumps lumps of of sugar sugar and and 6 6 egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix and and
work work the tbe flour flour into into the the mixture. mixture. Knead Knead into
into a a ball baH and and allow allow it it to to stand stand for for a few few
hours hours in in a a cool cool place. place. Roll out the the dough dough to to a
a thickness thickness of ofj1cm. cm. G (i inch). inch). Cut Cut into into Roll out

GALICIEN - This This sweet, sweet, which which is is a a type type of of cake,
cake, was was created created GALICE,Nin in Paris Paris at the old Pdtisserie
Pâtisserie Frascati, Frascati, once situated on the
corner corner of ofthe the boulevard boulevard de de Richelieu Richelieu and and
the the rue rue de de Richelieu. Richelieu. This ofwhat during the the This pastry
pastry shop shop was was built built on on the the site of what was, during years
1796 and 1799 (the (the Directory) Directory) one of of the the most years between
between 1796 famous famous gaming-houses gaming-houses in in Paris. Paris.
Ingredients.500 cups) fine sugar, 375 g. (13 (13 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., 2f
cups) oz., 3* cups) sifted sifted flour, l6 16 eggs. oz., 3f,cups) M ethod. Whisk
Whisk the the sugar sugar and and eggs in in a pan, pan, on on the the edge edge of
Method. a low low flame. flame. After After the the mixture mixture has has tripled
tripled in in volume volume carefully carefully a Pour the the mixture mixture into
into a a large, large, shallow, shallow, stir in in the tbe sieved sieved flour.
Pour stir in a hot hot oven. oyen. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. sloping-sided cake
cake tin. tin. Bake Bake in of Butter Butter Slice the the cake cake across. Spread
Spread on on each each halfa half a layer layer of Slice CREAMS) flavoured
flavoured with with pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. Put Put the the cream (see (see
CREAMS) cream join them them two halves halves together, together, exerting
exerting a little pressure pressure to to join two firmly. Spread Spread the the
cake cake with with apricot apricot jam. jam. Ice lce with with Pistachio firmly.
icing (see (see ICING) ICING) and and decorate decorate with with more more of of
the the pistachiopistachioicing butter cream, cream, using using a a forcing-bag.
forcing-bag. Sprinkle with flavoured butter flavoured finely chopped chopped
pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. finely

2i

GALICHONS-Also GALICHONS - Also called called calissons. calissons. Little Little

iced iced cakes cakes made made with of Aix. Aix. with pounded pounded almonds,
almonds, a a speciality speciality of
- Common Common name name of the the plant plant Cyperus whose whose tubers tubers
are are edible edible and and known known in in French French as as Cyperus de
terre. terre. amandes de amandes

GALINGALE. soucsrr SOUCHET GALINGALE.

GALL. FIEL FIEL - Secretion Secretion of of the the liver liver commonly commonly
called called bile bile in GALL. humans. It It is is a a very very bitter bitter
greenish greenish substance. substance. The gall gall humans. bladder is is
attached attached to to the the liver. liver. In In drawing drawing poultry poultry
or or winged winged bladder game, game, the the gall gall bladder bladder must must
always always be be removed removed with with the the greatest greatest care care
to to avoid avoid it it breaking breaking and and giving giving a a bitter bitter
ff.avour flavour to the the bird. bird. Only Only pigeon pigeon liver liver
contains con tains no no gall. gall. to GALLIMAUFRY. clrn\,rlFRfE GALIMAFRÉE - A A
chicken chicken stew stew from from GALLIMAUFRY. in his his book book le le
Viandier, Viandier, gives mediaeval cookery. cookery. Taillevent, Taillevent, in
mediaeval the following following recipe: recipe: the 'For gallimaufry,
gallimaufry, take take roast roast chickens chickens or or capons, capons, cut cut
them them 'For into sections, sections, and and afterwards afterwards fry fry them
them in in bacon bacon or or goose goose fat. fat. into ground ginger, ginger,
salt, salt, and, and, to to thicken thicken Add wine wine and and verjuice,
verjuice, ground Add it, treacle-mustard.' treac1e-mustard.' it, 'Take a a leg leg
of of mutton mutton freshly freshly Gallimaufry (old (old recipe) recipe) - 'Take
Gallimaufry of onions. onions. cooked, and and chop chop it it as as finely finely
as as possible possible in in a a dish dish of cooked, Stew these these ingredients
ingredients with with a a little little verjuice, verjuice, butter, butter, and and
Stew ground white white ginger, ginger, all all mixed mixed together together and
and seasoned seasoned with with ground salt.' salt.' The word word gallimaufry
gallimaufry is is now now used used in in a a disparaging disparaging sense, sense,
The and means means a a badly badly cooked cooked stew stew made made from from
scraps. scraps. and
GAME
NUT. NoD( NOIX DE cALI-E GALLE - Orientals OrientaIs eat a fleshy gall nut GALL
IYUT.
ste'p to or pouch. From the word word gibeciire gibecière it was an obvious step
carried', and it was not long the word wordgiDier,'that gibier, 'that which was
carried', the language. established in the before the word was firmly established
three categories. Game can be divided into three quail or the the thrush. the quai!
L Small birds, not larger than the 1. into winged proper which which can can be be
subdivided into 2. Game Game proper 2. pheasant, etc.) (woodcock, partridge,
partridge, pheasant, game (woodcock, etc.) and and ground game and hare). game
(wild rabbit and venison (roebuck, deer, and wild boar). 3. Large game or venison
3. and 'Game,'writes 'Game,' writes Brillat-Savarin, 'is a healthy, warming, and
and easy easy to fit for for the the most most delicate palate and food, fit
savoury food, can proan experienced cook, game can hands of an digest. In the hands
digest. quality which raise the culinary art art vide dishes of the highest quality
ofa science. level of a science. to the level game from from 'There is game of aIl
types of game is game all sorts. sorts. Certain Certain types 'There game killed
killed flavour as similar game P6rigord will not have the same flavour Périgord
will make make dull dull near Paris will hare killed near a hare at Sologne.
Whereas a at Dauphin6 or the the Burgundy the Haut Dauphiné leveret from the a
leveret eating, a any other of of district will be more deliciously flavoured than
any its kind.' game, i.e. for most most game, i.e. a is a season for a In Britain
Britain there there is a closed closed season In shot and killed. killed. Several
Several birds be shot period when game may not be protected ail year round, round,
including including blackbird, blackbird, are are protected all the the year swan,
and and swift. rail, swan, bustard, cygnet, cygnet, heron, lapwing, lark, rail,
game - Generally dieticians speaking, dieticians Generally speaking, Digestibility
Digestibility of of game if it it has especially if the consumption consumption of
game, especially advise against against the and may It can can be be extremely
extremely toxic toxic and may for too too long. long. It been hung for putrefaction
is is advanced. advanced. cause food poisoning if putrefaction is important
important in moderation. Il It is eaten in Fresh game should be eaten fast is shot
shot down down when moving fast to to remember remember that the quarry is
possibility of causing activity causing of its muscular activity and and that there
is is a a possibility gun pellet pellet wounds The gun in the the flesh. flesh. The
lactic lactic acid acid to to form form in spread encourages the the spread
increase the of this acid, acid, which which encourages the toxicity ofthis
putrefaction. The immediately in of putrefaction. in the the latter begins almost
The latter of almost immediately flesh of animaIs animals killed after long
struggle. flesh after a a long struggle. particularly toxic and inintoxic and Game
is particularly fowl left left uncleaned uncleaned is Game fowl digestible.
digestible. pregame in larger game in an an effort effort to to preThe habit habit
of marinating The marinating larger spread of of microbes. microbes. very slightly
slightly the the spread serve serve it, it, reduces reduces only only very FUMET.
Game fumet fumet See FUMET. - See

as

big as a lady-apple that grows on a species of sage. regions an edible edible type
type of of gall gall nut grows on ground In other regions ivy.

- Liquid measure measure used in most English-speaking GALLON about 4| It is is

equivalent equivalent to to about 41 litres (U.S. (U.S. gallon countries. It
countries. J~ litres). litres). equals 3t equals GAMACHE - There is an episode
episode in Don Quixote in which GAMACIfi the hero and his faithful Sancho attend
the wedding feast of extraordinary number a wealthyfarmer wealthy farmer called
Garnache. The The extraordinary called Gamache. led to the word gamache of dishes
served at this repast has led being used to describe describe any similarly
bountiful meal.
to a has givenits GAMAY - Village in Burgundywhich Burgundy which hasgiven its name
toa GAMAY-Village prolffic vines vines in in vine. The is one one of the most
prolific the most vine. The Petit gamay is

Burgundy. Although this this vine of as fine a quality as the vine is not of
Burgundy. for their yield, Pinot, Gamay grapes are are much sought after for Pinot,
which is always always fairly high. The grapes of of the Gamay vine are which used
Pinot, but Pinot are used sometimes used with with those of but the Plnot of the
Pinof, sometimes by themselves in the best wines. districts to the west of the Côte
and in the BeauC6te d'Or and In districts jolais, Mdconnais, Mâconnais, and
Lyonnais districts, the grapes of the and Lyonnais quality. (See Gamay vine make
wines excellent quality. wines of excellent vine make Gamay BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.)

of

partridge of central European origin. GAMBRA GAMBRA - Type of partridge (q.v.) may
be partridge (q.v.) Ali All the recipes for for partridge be used used in in the
the preparation of this bird.
GAME. GIBIER to ail all wild animaIs animals applies to cIBIER - The term game
applies and and eaten. and birds which which are hunted and Gibier, the French
game, cornes from gibecer for game, comes from word for French word Gibier, the
which, in old French, meant hunting. Gibecer in turn derives This meaning
hunchback. This from the Latin adjective adjective gibbosus, meaning word the
various animais animals killed in the word was used used to describe the chase
because, to carry home the game they killed, huntsmen were equipped equipped with a
bag, pouch, or box which they usually carried on their backs. Thus equipped, they
had the appearthey had ance From this this arose arose the the word word gibecer,
of hunchbacks. From ance of followed gibecidre for for the the huntsman's bag
followed by its derivative derivative gibecière by its

Game. Game. Painting Painting by Snyders by Frans Frans Snyders

405 40s
GAME BAG GAMEBAG
GAME BAG. CARNIER clnNrrn
-

Bag or net used to hold game.

sliced very verv thinly thinlv GAlVJE GAME CHIPS. CHIPS. CROUSTILLES cRousrILLEs -
Potatoes sliced hot or cold. fried. They are served servod hot and fried. CHEESE.
GAMMELOST - See CHEESE.

GANDER.

JARS - See

GOOSE. GOOSE.

found in the Pyrénées. Pyr6n6es. GANGA - Hazel-grouse found (7 oz., (Flemish

pastry) 2A0 g. o2.,lf; GANTOIS li cups) Sieve 200 GAI\TOIS (Flemish e. (7 - Sieve
(5 oz., g. (5 in the centre 150 150 g. o2.,3 ~ cup) flour onto a Place in the
centre a table. Place flour (5 oz., g. (5 150 g. oz., generous ! butter, refined
brown sugar, sugar, 150 i cup) butter, ground cinnamon, ! I teaspoon ground tea2
medium-sized eggs, eggs, 1 t teaground cloyes, salt, and and I teaspoon teaspoon
bispoon ground cloves, a a pinch of salt, carbonate of soda. flour and and other
other ingredients Knead ingredients are Knead, and and when when the the flour pahn
of of the hand. with the the palm thoroughly work the dough dough with thoroughly
mixed, work for 1 I hour. Leave to stand in a cool place for parts and out into and
roll them out Divide into 5 roll them Divide the 5 parts dough into the dough (*
inch) thick. Place on a buttered baking sheet rounds! rounds * cm. cm. (t and oven
until until golden brown. Leave to and bake in a a moderate oyen cool cool on a
wire cake tray. Spread each with a thin layer of greengage jam and place
ofgreengagejam Trim, and and coyer cover the whole top of the them on top the
other. other. Trim, them one one on (l oz., g. (1 apricot jam. Mix ~ix 25 g.
completely with concentrated apricot (l oz., ig. (1 tablespoons) fine sugar, 25 g.
2 tablespoons) sugar, 25 f, cup) blanched and peel of I ground finely diced ground
almonds, the finely 1 orange diced candied peel (approximately 2 tablespoons), I
egg white. (approximately tablespoons), and 1 Cover the cake cake with this
mixture, Coyer mixture, sprinkle sugar over it and brown in the oyen. oven. Leave
to cool before serving. serving.

this will be this be sufficient. If pork is is used, a a little goose fat will
enhance the the flavour. flavour. Cut stale wholemeal bread bread into into thin
enhance Cut stale add to the stock and vegetables. slices and add 'The mixture
mixture must thick enough enough for the ladle 'The must be thick ladle to stand up
in it when set in the centre of the tureen. possible to make a good garbure
tribuc,bnt 'It is possible garbure without trébuc, but cold Id water a piece of in
that case it is necessary to put in the co sausage, or, ot, at the very least, lean
bacon ham bone, bone, or a sausage, bacon (thin green cabbage. flank). White White
cabbage may be used instead instead of of green 'For an everyday 'For garbure, it
is usual to make make do with with a piece everyday garbure,it of bacon or ham, or
bacon chopped with crushed garlic. season, a a few slices of pink swede swede or
roast 'According to to season, chestnuts are added. In win chestnuts ter, dried
beans only being winter, being availThey must have to able be cooked must be able,
these these have to be cooked in in advance. advance. They drained after after
cooking, cooking, as as their their water destroy the drai~ed water would would
destroy garbure. To thicken characteristic flavour of the garbure. characteristic
thicken the broth, sometimes crushed through a sieve. the beans beans are sometimes
crushed and rubbed through is served separately separately from from the broth,
either by 'The meat is itself or with the vegetables, like the boiled beef of a
hotpot. hotpot. itself beef of putting it in the Some cooks cooks brown tribuc in a
pan before brown the trébuc before putting Sorne added, but the stock. In this this
case the necessary fat must be be added, which the the trébuc tribuc was browned
should not be used. fat in which is an an indispensable finish to every 'A good
goudale (q.v.) is garbure.'

GAPERON Limasne which can be eaten GAPERON eaten from - Cheese from Limagne
September to July. September

GARBANZOS or GARV GARVANCE GARBANZOS ANCE Spanish name for chickchick- Spanish
peas. have rather a a tough pulp and and should be be preThese peas have other
dried overnight in cold dried vegetables by soaking soaking overnight pared like
other water. Serve them with or without meat in the same way as haricot beans. are
an an essential essential ingredient Garbanzos are ingredient of alla podrida, a
olla podrida, is one of the most characteristic dishes of Spain. stew that is
B6arnais district. The name also GARBURE - Broth of the Béarnais applies to to many
Their common applies many other other broths and and soups. soups. Their
characteristics are are the slices of bread covered covered with with various
simmered in fat in savoury spreads, browned in the oyen oven or simmered and served
with the soup. the stockpot, and Biarn writes: writes: Cuisine en Béarn Simin Palay
in his book la Cuisi,!e gorbe fromi The root is surely garbe 'Where does this term
come from? (a sheaf or bunch). It is a bunch ofvegetables of vegetables which
provides the basic stock of the garbure: cabbage, thyme, garlic, parsley, marjoram,
marjoram, French beans, peas ... . . . Moreover Moreover (in Béarn), B6arn), the
term garburatye is used for any the any collection collection or mixture of greur
vegetables. fresh green fresh pot glazed glazd on in an 'Boil water in an
earthenware pot on the inside delicacy of cast iron or iron pots spoil the delicacy
of the flavour. When peeled and it is boiling, throw in potatoes, peeled and cut
cut into into thick throw in it is haricot or broad slices. Add other fresh
vegetables in season: haricot pepper. peas, or French beans. Season with salt and
pepper. beans, beans peas place of white. pepper may Red ~eppe; used in may be be
used in place Red white. Flavour with of thyme, parsley or ~resh fresh marjoram.
marjoram. Leave !o to garlic, a sprig of cook, making sure that the water IS is
~onstantly constantly on the boil. bOl!. cook, possible into strips, finely-as
Shred tender green cabbage as finely as possible Ieaves, after having removed
cutting across the width of the leaves, such portions as are too tough. ingredients
are are thoroughly cooked, 'Once the rest rest of the ingredients throw the cabbage
into the boiling stock. Coyer Cover the pot to green and, 30 minutes keep the
serving, cabbage leaves green the cabbage minutes before before serving, keep put
in a piece of of pickled meat: lou trébuc; tribuc; the fat adhering to

Garde-manger Garde-manger made with wire-mesh made

Storage place, cool and well-aired, in GARDE-MANGER GARDE-MANGER - Storage where

the food required for the preparalarge eating-houses, eating-houses, where tion of
refrigerators in of meals is kept. There are ice chests or refrigerators g&me,
fish, and other proviwhich which are stored meat, poultry, game, sions. preparatory
all the prepara The cold tory cold buffet is prepared here, here, and ail jointing
work done on such as foodstuffs, such work raw foodstuffs, on raw as boning and
jointing meat, drawing and trussing poultry, and gutting fish. The name is is also
also used used in in France to designate the The to designate the man duty of the
work ofa whose special dut y it is to supervise this part of of a large kitchen.
kitchen. The word can also mean an ordinary larder.
GARDEN WARBLER. WARBLER. BECFIGUE BEcFIcITE Bird found found in GARDEN in great -
Bird numbers in the south of France, particularly in Provence. Provence. It is
called béguinette biguinette locally. Its Its French French name becfigue dates is
harvest in Roman back to the fig fig harvest Roman times. garden warbler praised by
Brillat-Savarin. warbler was greatly praised The garden He said said that this this
bird, "gets as robins and 'gets at least as plump as ortolans, and nature has given
its flesh a slight bitterness bitterness and ortolans, a unique unique flavour
which are are so so exquisite that that they they engage, a engage,

406
GARLIC GARLIC
gratify, and and stimulate stimulate all all the the degustatory degustatory
powers. powers. If If the the gratify, garden warbler warbler were were the the
size size of of a a pheasant pheasant it it would would certainly certainly garden
be worth worth the the price price of of an an acre acre of of land.' land.' be
There are are a a number number of of recipes recipes for for preparing preparing
these these little There birds in in addition addition to to the the recipes
recipes given given for for ortolans ortolans (q.v.). (q.v.). birds Garden warblers
warblers ià I'arlesienne. l'arlésienne. BEcFIcUES BECFIGUES A À
r'lnr6srnNNEL'ARLÉSIENNEGarden Fill the the middle middle of of a a round round
loaf loaf of bread bread which which has has been been Fill hollowed out out like
like a a uoustade croustade (q.v.), buttered buttered and baked baked in hollowed
the oven, oven, with with St St George's George's agarics (see (see AGARIC),
briskly briskly the sautéed in in butter. butter. saut6ed On the the mushrooms
mushrooms put 6 drawn and and trussed trussed warblers. On Season with with salt
salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with melted butter. butter. Season Cook quickly
quickly in in a a very very hot oven oven and and serve in in the the bread Cook
croustade. croustade. Pour over over the the birds birds the butter butter in which
which they were browned, browned, Pour adding a little little flamed ftamed brandy
to it. il. Cook in a very hot oven adding in the same dish. dish. and serve in like
Roast garden garden warblers. BEcFIGUES BECFIGUES n6us RÔTIS Roast - Prepare like
Roast orto/ans (see ORTOLAN). Roast ortolans

dry, lean sea eel, eel, has GARFISH. oRPHIE ORPHIE - The has dry, The garfish, or
sea GARFISH. (q.v.). eel (q.v.). Prepare like eel ftesh, poisonous at certain
times. times. Prepare flesh,
a third-rate restaurant, with GARGOTE GARC'OTE - French term for a used being
called the gargotier. Gargote is also used its proprietor being colloquially to
describe bad cooking. describe bad

its strong strong plant, distinguished by its GARLIC. AIL A.Ir GARLIC. - Perennial
plant, poor man man3 called poor It is is also also called smell, cultivated for
its 's its bulb. bulb. It cultivated for smell,
districts ('garlic herb'). In country districts theriac and and herbe aux aulx
('garlic powerful anthelmintic anthelmintic very powerful sorne a very some people
consider garlic as a and an antifebrile. antifebrile. and also as as an garlic to
eat eat garlic Aristophanes used to athletes used the athletes that the wrote that
Aristophanes wrote garlic is is that garlic said that Virgil said stadium. VirgiJ
the stadium. exercises at the before their exercises reapers. harvest reapers. tain
the the right of harvest the strength strength of to main maintain right food food
to the garlic is for is a a cure cure for Pliny, that garlic maintained that
naturalist, maintained the naturalist, Pliny, the Hippocrates consumption. Celsius
for fever. fever. Hippocrates cure for it as as a a cure cited it Celsius cited
'garlic is is classed adds: 'garlic and adds: drugs and sudorific drugs the
sudorific among the classed garlic among Dieyes.' Dihot, for the the eyes.' it is
is bad bad for but it diuretic, but laxative, and and diuretic, hot, laxative, an
anthelmintic anthelmintic oscorides as an favour as in its its favour case in
strong case a strong oscorides made a (a (a cure worms). intestinal worms). cure
for intestinal The prophet id : 'In and bites bites 'In cases stings and cases of
of stings said: prophet Mohammed Mohammed sa to the the by poisonous animaIs,
Applied to garlic acts as a a theriac. theriac. Applied acts as animals, garlic
produces sucsucspot it produces of scorpion, scorpion, it sting of or sting viper,
or by viper, spot bitten bitten by of cessful bites of garlic is against bites is
used used against In Cayenne results.' In Cayenne garlic cessful results.' certain
snakes. certain snakes. published in In n 1792, 1792, naturelle published
d'histoire naturelle his Eléments Eliments d'histoire In his plague'. Millin
'garlic is the plague'. preventive against against the is a a preventive
that'garlic Millin claimed claimed that Bernardin is which is smell of of which
'Garlic, the the smell said: 'Garlic, de Saint-Pierre Saint-Pierre said: Bernardin
de so perhaps the the most most is perhaps mistresses, is little mistresses, our
little by our so dreaded dreaded by powerful nerand nervapours and the vapours
against the powerful remedy in existence existence against remedy in vous subject.'
are subject.' they are which they to which vous maladies maladies to In F6lix Dr
Félix says Dr doctors, says certain doctors, century, certain In the the sixteenth
sixteenth century, Brémond 'condemned themthemtable,'condemned de la la table,
Dictionnaire de his Dictionnaire Br6mond in in his garlic in selves their in their
of garlic cloves of several cloves of several carrying of to constant constant
carrying selves to pockets patients, from from the the their patients, and their
protect themselves, pockets to themselves, and to protect bad diseases.' epidemic
diseases.' air and and epidemic bad air

Garden warbler Garden warbler

Brown buttef. sizzling butter. in sizz!ing Brown briskly briskly in Line layer of
gratin jorcemeat d gratin of à with aalayer dish with Line an an ovenproof
ovenproof dish forcemeat (see FORCEMEA T) and put pressing them them (see
FORCEMEAT) and put the on this, this, pressing the birds birds on down into the
forcemeat. Cover them with a few tablespoons down into the forcemeat. Cover them
with a few tablespoons of a fine in butter. butter. (q.v.) of tossed in of
mushrooms mushrooms tossed salpicon (q.v.) fine salpicon of .a Sp;inkle and brandy
and of fine fine Champagne Champagne brandy few drops drops of with a a few
Spiinkle with 2 hot in aa hot (3 tablespoons) Cook in butter. Cook melted butter.
tablespoons) melted 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 oven. oven. Garden A LA I-.q,
LANDAISE LeNnnlse -BEcFlcuEs À landaise. BECFIGUES i la la landaise. warblers à
Garden warblers Wrap warbler in a vine leaf and a thin rasher of bacon, Wrap each
each warbler in a vine leaf and a thin rasher of bacon, and put them on metal
skewers, 3 birds to a skewer, separa ted and put them on metal skewers, 3 birds to
a skewer, separated from in butter. butter. fried in lightly fried of bread bread
lightly cro0tons of other by by croûtons from each each other Place them in a long
fireproof dish, season with salt and Place them in a long fireproof dish, season
with salt and pepper, gras fat. Cook quickly or joie pepper, spnnkle butter or
sprinkle with with butter foie gras fat' Cook quickly in pour over little birds
aa !ittle over the the birds cooked, pour oven. When When cooked, hot oven. in a a
hot Armagnac, grapes and peeled grapes and fresh peeled previously heated, heated,
with with fresh Armagnac, previously 1 teaspoon dissolved jelly added it. to il.
added to meat jelly I teaspoon dissolved meat Garden warbler à la piémontaise.
BECFIGUES À LA PIÉMONGarden warbler I la pi6montaise. BEcFIGUES A r,c, ptfMoxTAISE-
Heat butter in asautépan and Iightly brown blanched, rAIsE-Heat butterina sautepan
and lightly brown blanched, drained, fat, In the same fat, the same of bacon.
bacon.In rashers of shredded rashers drained, and and shredded sizzling hot, cook
the warblers. sizzling hot, cook the warblers. Arrange birds in a pie dish or
timbale on a foundation Arrange the the birds in a pie dish or timbale on a
foundation of juices pan juices (q.v.) with Dilute the thepan with truffies.
truffies. Dilute of smooth smooth risotto risotto (q.v.) with a Iittle Madeira,
thickened few tablespoons tablespoons thickened addaa few with a little Madeira,
add brown veal pour over the birds. birds. over the stock and and pour brown veal
stock Garden warblers à la polenta (called nnc(called ài la romaine). BEClr
romaine). polenta la warblers i Garden À LA ROMAINE - Put a fairly stiff layer of
FIGUES À LA POLENTA, FrcuEs A u poreNrA, A lA noMNNs - Put a fairly stiff layer of
polenta (q.v.) with cheese into an ovenproof dish. With the polenta (q.v.) with
cheese into an ovenproof dish. With the back of a wet spoon press as many hollows
in trus layer of back of a wet spoon press as many hollows in this layer of polenta
as there are birds. Into garden putaagarden hollow put eachhollow polenta as there
are birds. Into each warbler which has been briskly tossed in butter. warbler which
has been briskly tossed in butter. 407 407

À gras the size of pinn FABRlpiece of of jOie FABRI - Put Put a a piece A LA r.l
FAÇON rlgoN DU ou PÈRE foie gros the size of a warbler' piece of inside each each
warbler. truffie, inside a piece of truille, studded with with a a walnut, walnut,
studded

Garden BEcFIGUES of Father Father Fabri. Fabri. BECFIGUES manner of warblers in in

the the manner Garden warblers

Garlie
GARNISHES GARNISHES
Garlfu butter, butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'AIL D'ArL -- This This butter, butter, which
which is is used used in Garlic in sauces, forcemeats, forcemeats, or preparation
of or in in the the preparation of cold cold horshorssauces, d'euvre, is pounding
together is made made by by pounding peeled, together 4 4 cloves cloves of of
peeled, d'œuvre, blanched and garlic and and drained drained garlic (4 oz., g. (4
100 g. and 100 oz., i] cup) cup) fresh fresh blanched butter. Pass Pass the the
mixture mixture through through a sieve. a fine fine sieve. butter. Garlfo capons.
capons. CHAPONS cHApoNs À A L'AU, r'nn -- Crusts Crusts of of bread bread rubbed
rubbed Garlic garlic, seasoned with raw raw garlic, seasoned with with oil, oil,
vinegar, vinegar, salt, pepper, salt, and and pepper, with green salads. and added
added to to green salads. and Garlic forcemeat. forcemeat. FARCE FARcE D'AIL D'ArL
-- Used preparation for the Used for the preparation Garlic ofcold hors-d'euvre and
and varîous various other other dishes. dishes. pound Pound equal equal of cold
hors-d'œuvre quantities of ofyolks ofhard-boiled eggs and and blanched blanched
c10ves cloves quantities yolks of hard-boiled eggs garlic in of garlic in a a
mortar. mortar. Add Add to to this this mixture mixture half half its its volume
volume of of of fresh butter, butter, blend, blend, and and rub rub through through
a a fine fine sieve. sieve. fresh garlic. AIL Grated garlic. .q,tr RÂPE nApE --
Garlic grated or Garlic is is usuaJly usually grated Grsted or pounded in in a a
mortar. mortar. Jt It is is added great number added to to a a great number of of
dishes. dishes. pounded When added added as as a a condiment condiment to to
Ingredients ingredients fried fried in in butter, butter, When cooking fat fat or
or oil, oil, do do not not alJow allow it it to to fry, fry, as as this this would
would render render cooking just before pungent. Add the dishes dishes too too
pungent. Add it it just before serving. serving. the The expression expression
pointe d'ail d'ail means means the the very quantity very small small quantity The
grated garlic garlic which of grated which can can be held on point of be held a
point of a on a a knife. knife. of Garlic oil. uulrn D'AIL oil. HUILE D'ArL --
Blanch Blanch and and drain drain 15 15 cloves cloves of of Garlic garlic, _and
pound in in a a mortar mortar to paste. Add to a fine paste. (+ a fine Add 3 dl. (}
3 dl. garlic, and pound pint, li lf cups) cups) olive olive oil. oil. Sieve Sieve
through a a muslin muslin c1oth. cloth. pint, This oil oil is is used for seasoning
seasoning salads. salads. IL It can can also also be be made by by This grated
garlie garlic to olive adding grated olive ail, oil, whieh which is then sieved
sieved through adding a cloth, cloth. a pouDRE D'AIL D'ArL -- Dry peeled garlic
cloves cloves Powdered garlic. POUDRE slowly in an oven. When When tbey they are
are quite dry, pound them them in a slowly a put to and put to dry dry once once
again again in in the the oven. oven. Pound them them mortar and reduced to a fine
fine powder. Pass through a again until they are redueed a sieve. Pound the pieces
left in the pieces in the the sieve sieve and and sift once more. sieve. jars,
seal, powder into jars, Put lhis this powder seal, and and keep in in a a dry dry
place. prr6e. pun6r Garlic purée. D'ArL garlic and cloves of garlic Garlic PURÉE
D'AIL - Blanch cloves and cook them in butter butter in a covered pan. Add a few
tablespoons cook very (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bleild Bleird and and pass very thick
thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see through through a sieve. and forcemeats. This
pur6e purée is used used in certain sauces and forcemeats. Garlfo sarce. SAUCE
sAUcE A sometimes used À L'Arr L'AIL Name sometimes used to Garlic sauce. - Name
describe describe aloli aïoli (q.v.). (q.v.). Garlic sor.ipE A Garlic sotp. soup.
SOUPE À L'AIL L'AIL - This soup, the recipe recipe for for which will will be be
found under SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, is very very popular in in the south of of
France. France. Garlic south-west of Garlic toast. toast. ndrn RÔTIE A À r'ArL
L'AIL - Speciality of of the soulh-west France. France. Lightly Lightly toast
slices slices of of wholemeal bread. Spread them them with Garlic Garlic purie,
purée, sprinkle sprinkle with with grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and
olive olive oil, and brown brown briskly in in the oven. oven.

Certain garnishes are Certain composite composite garnishes are often often caUed
called ragoûts ragoitts (financière, Godard, Toulouse, Toulouse, etc.). parts of
etc.). The The various various parts of ffinancidre, Godard, these generally
arrange<! these are are generally arranged separately separately around around the
the dish dish but but they they may may also also be mixed. be mixed.
GARNITURES GARNITURSS -_

ARRANGEMENT ARRANGEMENT OF OF GARNISHES. GARNISHES. DRESSAGE DRESSAGE DES DEs

important important to to French French caisine. cuisine. They are sometimes

somelimes named named
after after the the man man who who originated orîginated them, them, or after
after an occasion, or after after a a place, place, etc. etc. Garnishes Garnishes
consist consist of of various various trimmings trimmings added to a dish dîsh or
or placed placed around around meat, meat, chicken, cbicken, fish, fish, etc.,
etc., or served served at the the same same time time on on a a separate separate
dish. dish. Some Some garnishes garnishcs are are complicomplicated cated and and
are are made made only only by by professionals; professionals; others others are
are easily easily produced produced in in the the domestic domestic kitchen.
kitchen. Garnishes Garnîshes must must always always blend blend with with the lhe
flavour fiavour of of the the basic basic dish. dish. They They may may consist
consist of of one one or or several several elements, elements, dnd and are are
termed lermed simple simple or or composite. composite. Simple Simple garnishes.
garnishes. These These consist consisl of of a a single single element, element,
most most commonly commonty a a vegetable, vegetable, braised, hraised, saut6ed,
sautéed, or or bound bound with with butter; butter; a a cereal cereal (rice,
(rice, etc.); etc.); or or a a farinaceous farinaceous food food (tart, (tart,
crofiton, croûton, etc.). etc.). Composite Composite garnishes. garnishes. These
These are are made made from from a a number number of of ingredients, ingredients,
varying varyîng according according to to the the basic basic dish. dish. The The
ingredients ingredients must must blend blend in in flavour fiavour with with the
the main main dish dish and and with with one one another. another.
408 408

GARNISIIES. GARNISHES. c,c,RMruREs GARNITURES - Garnishes are numerous numerous and

For For large poultry, garne large cuts game -- If cuts of of meat, meat, poultry,
If there there is no risk risk of of is no their their being being spoih spoilt by
the stock stock or gravy of by the or gravy of the the main main dish, dish, the
the garnishes should garnishes should he be disposed disposed round round the the
main main dish dish in in separate separate groups. groups. The The main main meat
meat should should never never be be completely completely hidden hidden by by the
the garnish. If gamish. If the the meat is small, small, it meat is it is is
advisable advisable to to raise raise it it on on a a croûton cro0ton of fried
bread of fried bread or or sorne some other other foundation. foundation. This type
of arrangement, beiog somewhat complicated, -This type of arrangement, being
somewhat complicated, snould shbuld be be used used only only for for formai formal
banquets banquets wbere where dishes dilhes are are presented to presented guest
and to each each guest and served served by by a a waiter, waiter, and and is is
only only appropria te to appropriate garnishes made to certain certain garnishes
large number up of of a made up a large number of ch as of ingredients,
ingredients, su such as financière, Godard, Toulouse, Toulouse, or or financiire,
Godard, Tortue. Tortue. joints are To To facilîtate facilitate serving, serving,
large hot hot joints are often often served served to the to the guests already
guests already carved. carved. Gravy garnishes are Gravy and and garnishes are
served served separately separately at at the same same time. Certain Certain
vegetable garnishes garnishes are are always always served served separately.
separately. This This applies especially to purdes of· to purées of. vegetables
vegetables or dried vegetables, vegetables, to greeNr vegetables in to green in
buuer, butter, which which would would become limp in in the the stock stock or
gravy of of the the main dish, dish, and (rice, semolina, and to to pastas and and
cereals cereals (rice, semolina, etc.). etc.). The stocks, gravies, and sauces
appropriate garnish appropriate to each each garuish are are listed under the the
various garnishes. The dressing should be very lightly sprinkled over the main
dish. The remainder is is served served in a a sauceboat. Garnishes set the main
main dish be set out out round round the dish should should not not be sprinkled
sprinkled with with dressing, dressing, especially especially those those made made
of of fresh vegetables with butter, butter, those lhose served au gratin, or any an
gratin, any deep~ deepfried garnish. galllish. fried have the dressing dressing
poured Braised vegetables vegetables only should have over them. tbem. in
individual portions: cutlets, cutlets. e*alopeg escalopes, meat served served in
For meat noisettes, noisettes, medalliom, medallions, smell small filletg Mets,
fillet fi Il et steaks, of steakg suprême mprGme of chicken, surtfi sautéed chicken
- Apart from certain special dishes, dishes, chicken, chicken drawn under the
appropriate beading, to which attention is drawn appropriate heading, these small
small cuts cuts of meat meat may be be served served with with any any of the the
these garnishes garnishes indicated iodicated for large cuts. Jt is advisable to 10
prepare the garnishes garnishes in smaller shapes shapes It quantîties so that that
they they may may be be in better beller proportion proportion to to the and
quantities individual portions. portions. All placed around or along the Ali the
the garnishes garoishes should be placed of the the main dish. If If saut6ed,
sautéed, these these portions portions should be be sides of served with with their
their own own cooking cookingliquid. For grills grills it it is is preferable
preferable served liquid. For to to serve serve a separate separa le sauce. sauce.
The The garnishes garnishes of of individual individual portions portions may may
be be served with sauce or or not, not, according according to to the the
principles principles applicable applîcable to 1O large large sau@ cuts. cuts. of
the the ingredients ingredients and arrangearrangeFor coH cold dishes dishes -
Details Details of For ment of ofgarnishes gamishes for for these these dishes
dishes are are given given under under the the heading heading ment COLD
FOODSTUFFS. FOODSTUFFS. COLD quanlities of of garnish garnish to 10 be be used used
depend depend upon upon the the The quantities main dish, dish, but hut they lhey
vary vary also also according accordîng to to the the menu menu as as a a main
whole. The The various various ingredients Ingredients of of a a composite
composite garnish gamish must must whole. be sufficient sufficient in in number
number to to serve serve all ail the the guests. guests. The The quantities
quantities be used in in the the preparation preparation of of garnishes,
garnishes, whether whether simple simple or or used composite, should should be be
calculated calculated at at approximately approximately 100 100 g. g. composite, (4
(4 oz.) oz.) for [or each each guest. guesl. For soups soups and and broths broths
- These These garnishes garnishes may may consist consist of of a a For single item
item or or may may be be composite. composite. Some, Sorne, such such as as tapioca
lapioca and and single othersimilar similaringredients, Ingredients, are arecookod
cookoo in in the the soup soupitself. itself. Others Others other are are prepared
prepared separately separately and and added added to to the the soup soup at at
the the last last moment, or, or, where where appropriate, appropriate, served
served separately. scparately. moment,
Driedfruits frui ~~and a nd nuts: nUl~: hazelnuts, hazeinulS.walnuts, wal nu
lS.dried d liedbananas, bananas, Dried apricoIs,almonds, aJmonds.currants,
curranlS.sultanas, suh~nas.dates, dales.pean, pcar~.figs, ôgs,raisins, raisins.
apricots, apples,prunes, prunl:S. peacbes peaches(Htdiard. (Hi!diard. Phot. Phol.
Larousse) ÙJrousse) apples,
GARNISHES
SIMPLE sMpLEs SIMPLE GARNISHES. GARNISHES. cenNrruRns GARNITURES SIMPLES For meat
meat dishes disbesArtichokes. sauteed. Artichokes. Hearts or quarters: stewed;
braised; sautéed. Hearts: stuffed, sprinkled and browned; sprinkled with
breadcrumbs and browned; pur6ed. puréed. Artichokes, Jerusalem. Saut6ed;. in cream.
cream. Aubergines. Stuffed, Stuffed, sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and browned in cream. cream. Broad Broad beans beans (fresh). (fresh).
In butter; in cream; pur6ed. puréed. Brussels Brussels sprouts. Saut6ed. Sautéed.
Cabbage (grem or red). Braised; Braised; stuffed with forcemeat and rolled rolled
into balls; stuffed with small slices of meat and rolled rolled into sausages. sa
usages. Carrots (glazeQ.ln (glazed). In gravy; with Vichy sauce. Carrots
Cauliflower. Saut6ed; Sautéed; coated coated with Mornay sauce; sauce; in
Cauliflower. florets sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and browned. florets
ce/eriac. Stewed; braised. braised. Celery or celeriac. Cèpes. A À ta la
bordelaise; bordelaise; with chopped chopped herbs; herbs; à Cipes. d la la
provengale; with cream. cream. vençale; with braised. Chestnuts. Stewed; braised.
Corn on on the cob.In cob. In butter; in crea4. Corn Cucumbers. Cut pear-shaped,
stewed in butter; in thick Cucumbers. slices, stuffed. stuffed. Endive. Braised;
Braised; in butter; in cream. cream. Endive. Fennel (bulbous). (bulbous). Braised
Braised; Fennel ; stewed. French beans.ln beans. In butter; butter; in cream;
cream; pur6ed. puréed. French Fungi. Cultivatod Cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms,
chanterelles, chanterelles, morels, flapFungi. mushrooms, St St George's agaric,
orange-milk agaric, agaric, etc. etc. mushrooms, Sautéed, and and cooked cooked in
in various other other ways. Saut6ed, Gourd (pumpkin). (pumpkin). Quartered:
Quartered: stewed in butter; braised; braised, Gourd stuffed; cooked in cream.
cream. stuffed; Hop panicles. panic/es. In butter butter or cream. cream. Hop
Kidney beans (fresh (fresh or or dried dried small).In small). In butter or cream;
Kidney puréed. pur6ed. In cream; cream; in in gravy. Ladies'fingers. In LentOs. ln
In butter; pur6ed. puréed. Lentils. Letluce. Braised Braised; stuffed. Lettuce. ;
stuffed. Macaroni. Prepared in various ways. Macaroni. Mixed beans. beans. Mixture
of French beans and small kidnev kidney Mixed beans, fresh fresh or or dried.
dried. beans, Nood/es and and other other pasta pasla of the lhe same same type.
type. Prepared in Noodles various ways. ways. various Onions. Glazed Glazed;
stuffed. Onions. ; stuffed. Peas. ). À la la frangaise,' française; cooked cooked
with lettuce lettuce leaves; 1eaves; d à Ia la Peas. purée St St Germain. Germain.
paysanne; pur6e paysanne; Boiled; Anna; Anna; croquettes; croquettes; fondantes;
fondantes; fried fried in Polaloes. Boiled; Potatoes. various ways; ways; covered
covered with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned; browned; various fried with
with minced minced onions onions previously previously browned; browned; shaped as
as fried nuts and and browned browned in in butter; butter; parisienne; parisienne;
sprinkled with nuts parsley. parsley. Red beans. beans. ) À la la bourguignonne;
bourguignonne; in in gravy; pur6ed. puréed. Red Rice. Cooked Cooked in in fat; fat;
curried; curried; pilaf; pilaf; risotto risotto croquettes; croquettes; in in Rice.
cream. cream. Spinach. Whole Whole leaves leaves or or as as a a pur6e; purée; in
in butter; butter; in in cream; cream; Spinach. in stock. stock. in Tomaloes.
Stuffed Stuffed in in various various ways, ways, sprinkled sprinkled with with
cheese cheese Tomatoes. and/or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned; browned;
grilled; grilled; saut6ed. sautéed. and/or Glazed; stuffed. Turnips. Glazed ;
stuffed. In butter; butter; d à la la bretonne; bretonne; in in cream; cream; in in
stock; stock; White beans. ln à la la maitre maître d'h6tel; d'hôtel; pur6ed.
puréed. d For poultry pooltry For Artichokes. Hearts Hearts or or quartered
quartered whole whole artichokes: artichokes: stewed, stewed, Artichokes. or
saut6ed sautéed for for pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry; poultry; saut6ed sautéed
or braised, or braised, cooked in in a a casserole casserole for for drumsticks
drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry. poultry. cooked Hearts: in in cream
cream for for pot-roasted, pot-roasted, poached, poached, or or sautEed sautéed
Hearts: for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry; stuffed
stuffed for for poultry, for or pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry; poultry; braisod
in white stock stock for braised or poached poultry. poultry. poached
braised or Cipes. For For braised or pot-roasted poultry, saut6ed ken casserole,
for drumsticks or breasts of chicken or or chic chicken

poultry.
Chestnuls. Chestnuts. Braised or or stewed stewed for for braised braised or or
pot-roasted chic ken, for braised or chicken, for braised or pot-roasted young
turkey, turkey, for for potroasted roasted pigeon. pot-roasted, or Lettuce. Braised
Lettuce. for braised, Braised for braised, pot-roasted, or poached chicken, braised
or pot-roasted young young turkey, braised or chicken, braised or potroasted
pigeon. Mushrooms. Mushrooms. Cooked in a forpoached poultry, a white stock for for
breasts of poultry; poultry; cooked in a for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts a
brown stock braised, pot-roasted, pot-roasted, sautéed, saut6ed, or stock for for
braised, or casseroled poultry, drumsticks poultry, pot-roasted drumsticks or or
breasts breasts of of poultry, pigeon, nOll-f()astoo pot-roasted guinea-fowl.
guinea-fowl. pasta. For Noodles and and other other pasta. For braised braised or
or pot-roasted ken, "'AT-rtV""",.. poultry, sautéed pot-roasted turkey. saut6ed or
casseroled chic chicken, Pilaf With pot-roasted poultry, poultry, sautéed Pilaf.
With pot-roasted saut6ed or or casôsel'olex! casseroled chicken, drumsticks
poultry, pot-roasted chicken, drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry,
turkey. Rice. Cooked in fat, poached poultry. Rrce. fat, for poached Risotto. For
braised or pot-roasted poultry, poultry, chicken Risotto. For braised or pot-
roasted sautéed or cooked in saut6ed in a a casserole, drumsticks drumsticks or or
breasts of poultry. for braised braised poultry poultry or Turnips. Glazed Glazd
for or braised braised or or potroasted Nantes duckling. duckling. Vegelab/es
(various). Glazed Vegetables (various). gravy or in gravy Glazod carrots carrots in
or à d la la Vichy; cauliflower sprinkled Vichy; cauliflower sprinkld with with
cheese cheese and/or and/or breadcrumbs and browned; Sauerkraut .. braisd braised
fennel; crumbs and browned: Sauerkraut; fennel; broad beans in in butter butter or
glazd turnips; beans or cream; cream; glazed turnips; glazd onions; French beans
beans in in butter butter or peas cooked in various French or cream; cream; peas
ways; salsify salsify sautéed ways; in cream; saut6ed tomatoes; saut6ed or or in
cream; sautéed these vegetables may Jerusalem artichokes Jerusalem artichokes in
butter, etc. Ali All these be served served with braised, pot-roasted, or poached
poultry. poultry, be with braised, or poached sautéed chicken chicken or saut6ed or
chicken casserole, casserole, cutlets, cutlets, breasts, breasts, or fillets of
chicken. Young corn on on the the cob. In butter butter or cream cream for braised,
braised, potroasted, or or poached poached poultry, poultry, sautéed breasts,
roasted, saut6ed chicken, chicken, cutlets, cutlets, breasts, of poultry, pot-
roasted guinea-fowl. guinea-fowl. or fillets of
por.rR OEUFS GARNISHES FOR FOR EGGS. EGGS. cARNrruRRs GARNITURES POUR GARNISHES
oEUFs Like all al! other basic foods, foods, eggs, eggs, especially soft-boiled
soft-boilod or the ordinary way or be served poached in the or in moulds, may be
served a great variety of garnishes. Detailed recipes with a recipes for for those
those garnjsh(~ and instructions for setting them out on garnishes setting thern on
the the dish dish

are to be be found among among the the recipes recipes for for egg egg dishes (see
EGGS). dishes (see EGGS).
porssoNs GARNISHES FOR FISH. FISH. cARNIrr.JREs GARNITURES por;R POUR POISSONS
GARNISHES whole or in thick slices, sUces, is is garnished garnished according
Braised fish, whole to the instructions instructions set set out for main main meat
meat dishes. dishes. Poached fish fish (fish cooked cooked in in a a court-
bouillon), Poached court-bouillon'), whole whole or is invariably garnished with
boiled boiled or steamed sliced, is steamed potatoes and and fresh parsley. The The
dressing is is a sauce of sorne toes a sauce some kind, served separately.
separately. To To this trus standard garnish are are sometimes served sometimes

-
added further further ingredients ingredients such such as as very fish, added very
small small fried fried fish, minute croquettes, or or shells shells filled filled
with with various various garnishes, garnishes, etc. minute etc. Small fish, or
fillets fillets poached in a a little court-bouillon, Small court-bouillon, are are
served with various various garnishes, garnishes, simple simple or composite.
composite. Details Details served of these these garnishes garnishes are are given
with with the the recrpe recipe for for the the fish fish in of in question. Small
f,sh fish and and their their garnishes garnishes are are normally nonnally covered
Small covered with with sauce prescribed for for them, them, unless unless they
they are are frid fried d à la meunière sauce la meuniire or sprinkled sprinkled
with with cheese cheese or or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned. browned. or
Grilled fish, fish, whole whole or or sliced, sliced, is is garnished as as a
Grilled a rule rule with with boiled potatoes, slices slices of of lemon lemon cut
eut with with a a fluted f1uted knife, knife, and and boiled fresh parsley. Some
Sorne types types of of grilled fish fish have have special special gargarfresh
nishes. Details of of these these are are given given with with the the recipe
recipe for for the the fish in nishes. fish in question. question. Fried fish fish
is is invariably invariably garnished garnished with with fried fried parsley
parsley and and Fried halved or or quartered quartered lemons. lemons. halved

409 409
A gourmet gourmet spread: spread: duck duck d àI'orange, l'orange, turbot, turbot,
lobster, lobster, A and wines wines (Zasserre. (Lasserre. Phot. Phal. Nicolas)
Nicolas) limbale Elysée. assorted assor1ed cheeses cheeses and timbaleElysbe,
GARNISHES
cARMruREs COMPOSÉESCOMPOSITE GARNISHES. GARNISHES. GARNITURES coMposfgs (potatoes
whose pulp is dark potatoes (potatoes A l'africainePafricaine- Black potatoes À
colour look like marbles, bluish in colour A TOES), cut to look POTATOES), marbles,
- see POT butter; braised blanched blanched in in salt salt water, water, and and
cooked cooked in in butter; braised courgettes courgettes (zucchini). flavourod
with Serve with rice cooked in fat stock lightly flavoured saffron. (q.v.) of
pickled pickled tongue, mushAgnès Agp&s Sorel Sord Salpicon (q.v.) - Salpicon and
truffles, truffies, with little mounds of white rvhite rice. rooms, and blended
with Madeira Madeira and a Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended (see, SA
Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). UCE). Uses. For large cuts of meat; poultry; eggs.
Albigeoise Afbigeoise Potato croquettes prepared as as for for Duchess - Potato
potatoes (see POT ATOES) mixed with lean chopped ham; POTATOES) (duxelles) small
tomatoes stuffed with chopped mushrooms (duxel/es) small have been which fried in
been fried which have in butter with chopped onion onion and garlic, and parsley.
and chopped parsley. mixed with breadcrumbs, garlic, (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace
sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with Sauce. tomato. tomato. Uses. For
large and small cuts of meat. garnished Albuféra shed with truffies truffles shaped
Albuf6ra Small tartlets tartlets garni - Small with a a bali-scoop ball-scoop (the
size of a a pea) and and chicken forcemeat and kidneys; mushrooms, and balls balls
of the same shape. Cocks' Cocks' kidneys; slices of of pickled tongue shaped like
cocks' combs combs are placed on top of each tartlet. (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce.
Sauce. Albufera sauce (see poached chicken. Chickens thus garnished are Uses. For
poached gras and stuffed foie gras stuffed with with rice rice mixed mixed with
with a a salpicon salpicon of foie and truffies. truffles. IAlgérienne Ng6rienne 1
small tomatoes - Sweet potato croquettes; small stewed in oil. tomato. Sauce. veal
stock flavoured with tomato. Sauce. Clear veal Uses. For large or small cuts of
meat; poultry. II- Croquettes of rice and sweet peppers; peppers; thick Algérienne
Alg6rienne fi slices of aubergines. aubergines. veal stock flavoured with tomato.
Sauce. tomato. Sauce. Clear veal poached Strasbourg Braised sauerkraut; sauerkraut;
poached Alsacienne Alsacienne - Braised potatoes. sausages sa usages cut into
rounds; boiled boiled potatoes. stockora thin Demi-glace sauce(see SAUCE). Sauce.
Veal stock or a thin Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). goose and Uses. For large cuts
of meat; poultry, especially especially goose duck. Ambassedrice saut6ed combs;
cocks' cocks' kidneys; kidneys; sautéed Ambassadrice Cocks' combs; - Cocks' saut6ed
chicken livers; mushrooms; mushrooms; sautéed livers; shredded shredded truffies.
Madeira and Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended blendod with Madeira
thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat and poultry. Amdricaine slices
of of crayfish crayfish or or lobster lobster tails Américaine ail slices Small -
Sm d l'américaine. I'amdricaine. cooked à (se SAUCE) Sauce à d l'américaine
I'amiricaine (see SAUCE) to to which which is Sauce. Sauce. Sauce added used for
the main added the concentrated stock of the fish used l'amiricaine.) dish. (See
BRILL, Brill à d l'américaine.) Uses. For fish. lamb truffies ; and truffles balls
of ofchicken À orcemea t balls chicken and b IForcemeat A l'ancienne I'ancienne 1 ;
lam -F mushrooms; fresh olives; mushrooms; sweetbreads; sweetbreads; truffles
truffies shaped like olives; crayfish crayfish cooked in a fish court-bouillon
(q.v.). (se SAUCE) to sauce (see Sauce. has been Sauce. Suprême Supr€me sauce to
which has (mirepoix), flavoured pulp (mirepoix), fine vegetable vegetable pulp
flavoured with added added a a fine Madeira. Madeira. poached or For ca
sweetbreads; poached or braised braised Uses. Ives' sweetbreads; Uses. For calves'
vol-au-vent; hot pdtds; poultry; vol-au-vent; pâtés; savoury tarts. A l'ancienne
l'ancienne fi II Little savoury nests made of À of fried Duchess - Little (see
POTATOES) filled potatoes filled with with a a mixture of diced potatoes (see
calves' in butter, butter, and calves' kidneys kidneys sautéed saut6ed in and diced
diced mushrooms, grary; stuffed th thickened veal bound with veal gravy; stuffed
braised lettuce; bound wi potato balls in butter; beans in French beans small small
potato browned in butter; French balls browned butter. butter. pot-roast juices.
Sauce. Sauce. Braising liquor or pot-roast pot-roasted cuts Uses. large braised
braised or Uses. For For large or pot-roasted cuts of of meat, of veal. saddle le
of especially especially loin and sadd
410

Garnish il l'ancienne round a saddle ofveal

pastry boats garnished with Itr À A l'ancienne I'ancienne ru Small pastry with a
boats garnished - Small (see salpicon of of soft soft roes roes blended blended
with wth Normande sauce (see salpicon Normande sauce SAUCE); truffles trufles
trimmed to look like olives; mushrooms; mushrooms; freshwater crayfish cooked in a
a court-bouillon. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced pan juices of the main dish blended with
(se,e SA sauce (see Madeira-flavoured Velouté Velouti sauce a UCE) based on a
Madeira-flavoured SAUCE) fine vegetable fish stock and to which which a vegetable
mirepoix mirepoix is fish and cream, to a fine added. poached fish. Uses. For baked
or poached IÀ A l'anglaise fangtaise 1 Carrots cut in 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) lengths
and - Carrots leg of of lamb; lamb; mashed cooked with medium-sized onions onions
cooked with leg and mashed. turnips also cooked with leg of lamb, drained and (s*
SAUCE) with capers in vinegar sauce (see Sauce. Butler sauce Sauce. Butter added,
served separately. sep,arately. added, poached leg of lamb. Uses. For poached A
l'anglaise II S-crn. (2-inch) À langtaise fi - Carrots and turnips cut in 5-cm.
lengths, cooked with chicken; chicken; celery celery hearts also cooked cooked with
lengths, chicken; chicken; French beans and and cauliflower, cauliflower, boiled.
(see SA SAUCE) Sauce. Butler sauce UCE) with capers in vinegar Sauce. Butter sauce
(see (See CHICKEN, d added, added, served served separately. separately. (See
CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken à l'anglaise.) potatoes cut to look A l'Anversoise A
I'Anversoise - Hop shoots in cream; potatoes artichoke hearts like olives like in
butter. Or olives deep~fried deep-fried in Or small small artichoke chicory stewed
in butter butter and filled with hop shoots in cream; chicory (endive) à
laflamande. (endive) dlaflamande. stock. veal stock. Sauce. Sauce. Juices from the
roast or clear veal Uses. For large or sm ail cuts of meat; poultry. small (see POT
POTATOES); A TOES); Armenonville Small Anna potatoes (see - Small morels in cream;
and and tartlets filled with a salpicon of cocks' and kidneys. combs and calves'
sweetbreads. Uses. For small pieces of meat; calves' quenelles ; mushrooms;
mushrooms ; shredded À A la h banquièrebanquilre - Chicken quenelles; trufles.
truffies. (According to the nature of the main dish, the ingredients separately or
mixed in a of this garnish are either prepared separately rago,frt.) ragoût.)
SAUCE). Sauce. Banquière sauce (see SA UCE). Sauce, Banquiire poached or
sweetbreads and Uses. Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads and poultry poached
blanc: vol-au-vent. braised à vol-au-vent. d blanc; glazed carrots; saut6od in
butter; glazeQ carrots; braised braised Béatrix B6atrix - Morels sautéed quartered
artichokes; artichokes; browned new potatoes. cooking pan. Sauce. Sauce. Diluted
meat juices from the cooking Uses. For small cuts of meat. À ail artichoke A la
Beauhamais small artichoke hearts filled with h Beauharnais - Very sm (se SA puree
has Béarnaise sauce (see UCE) to which tarragon purée Bdarnake SAUCE) been added;
small potato balls browned in butter. main dish diluted with with Madeira Sauce.
Sauce. Pan juices of the main . and veal stock, together with chopped truffles.
truffies. and veal Uses. For small cuts of meat.
GARNISHES GARNISHES
Dispose these these vegetables round the vegetables round the main main dish dish
in in separate separate Dispose groups. groups. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the
roast. the roast. Sauce. [/ses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts
of of meat. meat. Uses. A la la bouquetière bouquetibre II II -- Very Very small
small artichoke artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered À in butter, butter,
filled filled alteroately alternately with with carrots carrots and and tumips;
turnips; buttered in buttered French beans; beans; small small bunches bunches of
of asparagus asparagus tips, tips, held held upright French upright by aa ring ring
of of carrots; carrots; cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into into florets
florets and by and covered with (see SAUCE); with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce
sauce (see potatoes cut SAUCE); potatoes cut covered to look look like like olives
olives and and sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. to Sauce. Juices Juices of of
the the roast. roast. Sauce. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts
cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. (sometimes caUed A la la bourgeoise bourgeoise
(sometimes called à t la la mode) mode) -- Glazed Glazed À carrots cut cut in in
ovals, ovals, and and onions, onions, both both cooked cooked with with the the
meaL meat. carrots Sometimes braised braised fresh fresh vegetables vegetables su
such as celery, celery, lettuce, lettuce, ch as Sometimes etc., are are added.
added. etc., Sauce. Braising Braising liquor liquor of of the the main main dish.
dish. Sauce. Uses. For For large large braised braised cuts of meat, cuts of meat,
notably notably beef beef rump rump Uses. braised à (see BEEF), but d la la
bourgeoise bourgeor'se (see garnish may this garnish but this may be braised be
used with with braised (noix de braised ox ox tongue, tongue, veal veal (noix fu
veau), veau), or used or leg leg of of lamb or or mutton. mutton. lamb A la ta
bourguignonne bourguignonne 1 glazd onions; I -- Small Small glazed onions; whole
whole or À or quartered mushrooms sautéed saut6ed in in butter; butter; diced,
diced, blanched, quartered blanched, (pickled) pork. and browned salt salt
(pickled) pork. and (see SAUCE). Sauce. Bourguignonne Bourguignonne sauce seuce
(see SAUCE). This garnish, This garoish, Sauce. generally served served with with
braised braised meat, meat, should should be be added generally added to to the
dish a a short time before it is is completely completely cooked. main dish Uses.
For large large cuts of of meat, meat, especially beef. Uses. A la bourguignonne
bourguignonne II tr The same as garnish, as the previous garnish, À - The without
the pork. the pork. but without Sauce. Red wine sauce sauce made with vegetable or
fish Sauce. fish stock a \ittle little fresh fresh butter added. with a Uses. For
braised braised fish. Uses. A la la brabançonne brabangonne 1 IBraised chic
chicory; À ory ; Potato fondantes - Braised (see POTATOES). (see Sauce. Reduced
veal veal stock. Sauce. Uses. Large cuts cuts of meat. A la la brabançonne
brabangonne II II À Little tartlets tartlets garnished garnished with - Little
Brussels covered with Mornay Brussels sprouts simmered in butter, covered Mornay
sauce (se SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sauce
(see SAUCE), browned croquettes. browned;; potato potato croquettes. Sauce. Sauce.
Reduced Reduced veal stock. Uses. For large pieces of meat. meat. Brancas - Anna
potatoes cooked in potatoes (see (see POTATOES) cooked individual moulds and turned
out; olt; Chffinade Chiffonade of of lettuce lelluce with with crearn cream (see
(see LETTUCE) LETTUCE) quite dry. dry. Sauce. Thickened veal stock stock or a Demi-
glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of
meat; meat; white white meat meat especially especially popltry. poultry. A À la la
bretonne bretonne I 1 - Dry white white beans beans or small kidney kidney beans,
beans, cooked cooked in in meat meat stock stock and blended blended with Bretonne
Bretonne sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Roast pan pan juices juices
or veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato. Uses. Uses.
For For large large cuts cuts of of meat meat (especially (especially leg leg of of
lamb) lamb) potpotroasted roasted or or roasted. roasted. A Àh la bretonne bretonne
II II - Breton Breton white white bean bean pur6e purée (see (see PUREE). PÙRÉE).
Sauce. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Uses. Uses. For For large
large cuts cuts of of meat. meat. A À la la bretonne bretonne III ID - Leeks,
Leeks, onions, onions, celery celery and and mushrooms, mushrooms, cut cut in in
thin thin strips strips and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter
until until they they are are very added to to the the main main fish fish dish
dish before before it it is is fully fully very tender, tender, and and added
cooked. cooked. Sauce. Made with with a a Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (sre (see
SAUCE) SAUCE) and and Sauce. Made cream. cream. Uses. For baked baked or or poached
poached fish. fish. Uses. For Brillat-Savarin ofDuchess Du ch esspotatoes potatoes
(see (see Brillat-Savarin- Little Little nests nests made made of
411 411

Garnish Béa (Debillot. PMI. Blatrix Phot. Larousse) Larousse) Garnish triK
(Debi/wl.

Beauvillien Small spinach spinach kromeskies (prepared by kromeskies (prepared by -

Small Beauvilliers pancakes with filling pancakes spinach, rolling with spinach,
rolling them them up, up, cutting cutting them them filling in rounds, rounds,
dipping dipping them them in in batter batter and and frying frying them them in in
deep deep in fat); small small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed with with cooked
pur6e, cooked brain brain purée, fat); browned with with breadcrumbs; breadcrumbs;
salsify salsify cut cut into into rounds, rounds, sautéed saut6ed browned in
butter. butter. in Sauce. Braising Braising stock. stock. Sauce. Uses. For For
large large cuts cuts of of braised braised meat. meat. Uses. A la la bénédictine
b6n6dictine Very small small tartlets pastry boats tartlets or or pastry À - Very
garnished with with Brandade Brandade of of salt cod(see COD, Salt Salt cod)
cod)with garnished salt cod (see COD, with chopped truffies trufres added. added.
chopped (see SAUCE) Sauce. White White wine sauce (see wine sauce SAUCE) if if
accompanying accompanying Sauce. fish; Cream Cream sauce sauce for for eggs. eggs.
fish; Uses. For For fish poachod eggs. fish or or coddled coddled or or poached
eggs. Uses. A la nerricnonne U Berrichonne cibbag"; sm smill onions; chest- Braised
À Braised cabbage; ail onions; nuts; rashers oflean oflean bacon. nuts; rasheŒ
bacon. Uses. For For meat, in big cuts. t meat, principally principally mutton,
mutton, served served in big cuts. Uses. A la Biarrotte Grilled cipes and of Da
cakes chess - Grilled cèpes and cakes of Duchess potato À la Biarrotte potato (see
POTATOES) as a (see POTATOES) used used as a foundation foundation for for mear.
meat. Uses. For For meat Uses. meat served served in in small small portions.
portions. Bonne-femme small ovals. small Potatoes trimmed trimmed into into small
ovals, small Bonne-femme I 1 - Potatoes onions, bacon and and mushrooms, mushrooms,
cooked cooked with with onions, lean lean larding larding bacon chicken. chicken.
Uses. For poultry. Uses. For poultry. Bonnefemme Bonne-femme tr II - Thinly Thinly
sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked with with fish. fish. Uses. For
fish. fish. Uses. For A À h la bordelaise bordelaise I 1- Cipes Cèpes d à la la
bordelar'se bordelaise (see (see MUSHMUSHROOMS); ROOMS); potatoes potatoes cut cut
to to look look like like olives olives and and cooked cooked slowlv slowly in in
clarified c1arified butter. butter. Sauce. of the the roast. roast. Sauce. Juices
Juices of Uses. Uses. For For large large joints. joints. A - Small À Ia la
bordelaise bordelaise tr 11Small quartered quartered artichokes artichokes stewed
stewed in in butter; butter; raw, raw, thinly thinly sliced sliced potatoes
potatoes saut6ed sautéed in in butter; butter; fried fried onion onion rings;
rings; fried fried parsley. parsley. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of main
main dish dish diluted diluted with with white white wine wine and and veal or
chicken chicken stock. stock. veal or Uses. For jointed jointed poultry. poultry.
Uses. For A À la la boulang0re boulangère - Thinly Thinly sliced sliced or or
quartered quartered potatoes potatoes and and thinly cooked with with the the main
main dish. dish. thinly sliced sliced onions, onions, cooked Sauce. Sauce. Juices
Juices of of the the roast. roast. Uses. For shoulder, shoulder, leg, leg, and and
other other cuts cuts of of mutton mutton and and Uses. For lamb; lamb;
occasionally occasionally for for poultry. poultry. A À la la bouqueti&re
bouquetière I1- Glazed Glazed carrots carrots and and turnips turnips trimmed
trimmed into or shaped shaped with with a a ball-scoop; bali-scoop; peas peas and
and into very very small small ovals ovals or diced diced French French beans,
beans, boiled boiled separately separately and and blended blended with with
butter; butter; cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into into florets florets
and and boiled, boiled, covered covered with SAUCE) or or melted melted butter;
butter; new new with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) potatoes
in butter. butter. potatoes browned browned in
GARNISHES GARNISHES
gras and truffies truffles blended blended into a a foie gras

POTATOES) frid fried and and hollowed hollowed to to hold hold a a salpicon of
POTATOES) concentrated Demiglace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Asparagus
Asparagus tipe tips can be arranged arranged on top. top. Sauce. TIin Thin demi-
glace demi-glace sauce sauce for large cuts. Stock of the Satrce. flavoured with
white Malaga wine, a a third veal main dish flavoured SAUCE), stock and Velouté
sauce (se (see SAUCE), and two-thirds chicken chicken Velouti cuts. for small cuts.
U-ses. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. meat. in butter; la bruxelloise -
Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts in butter; Potato Ah cut to (see POTATOES) POT
ATOES) or or potatoes cut to look look like fondantes (see fondantes cooked slowly
in clarified c1arified butter. butter. olives and cookod (see saace (see Sauce.
Clear veal veal stock stock or or thin thn Demi-glace sauce Sauce. SAUCE). meat.
and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and purée (see (see Camdrani - Small
tartlets filled with Foie gras purie shredded trufles; truffles; slices of of
pickled tongue shaped PUREE); shredded MACAROND. Macaroni d à l'italienne as
cocks'combs; cocks' combs; Macaroni I'italienne (see MACARONI). as Suprême sauce
(see SAUCE) to which the reduced Sauce. SuprAme been added. added. pan juices have
bee,n Ives' sweetbreads. calves' Uses. Poultry and poached ca À h la cancalaise and
shrimps' oysters and A cancelaise - Lenten garnish of oysters (se SAUCE). Normande
sauce (see tails in Normande À la little coquilles garnish of little coquilles
cardinal; Fish garnish A h cardinal - Fish mushrooms; slices of truffie. truffle.
mushrooms; carrot timbales. timbales. PETITS - Bu ttered Little carrot Buttered
PETITS PAINS PATNS DE CAROTTES cARorrnsLitfle custard as dariole moulds filled with
carrots prepared as custard cups or dariole for Carrot timbale moderate oven
timbale (see CARROT). Cook in a mCloel:ate in a pan of hot water or bain-marie.
Castiglione with risotto mixed filled with - Large mushrooms filled with and ham,
sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and lean ham, choppod lean with chopped (to be
browned; rounds of aubergine sautéed be used saut6ed in in butter (to browned; as
bone-marrow. as canapis); strips of poached bone-marrow. Sauce. white wine the main
main dish flavoured with white Sauce. Stock of the to which chopped have been veal
stock stock have been added. and veal chopped shallots and Butter should should be
be added to this sauce after it has been reduced. Uses. small cuts cuts of meat.
Uses. For For small À in oil; oil; sauteed in coarsely diced, diced, sautéed A la
catalane h catalane - Aubergine, coarsely Rice pilaf (see PILAF). pi@(see Sauce.
(see SAUCE) flavoured with with sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured A Demi-glace Demi-glace
sauce Sauce. A tomato. Uses. cuts of meat. Uses. For large cuts Cavour (q.v.) made
with polenta (q.v.) with of polenta baked rounds of Cavorr - Small baked cheese
grilled mushrooms filled mushrooms filled large grilled as canapés); canapis);
large be used used as cheese (to be with purée shredded truffles. trufles. pur6e of
chicken Iiver; liver; shredded Sauce. Marsala or or tomato. flavoured with with
Marsala Veal stock stock flavoured Sauce. Veal Uses. escalopes saut6od escalopes
cuts of of meat, meat, especially sautéed small cuts Uses. For small (U.S. cutlets)
sweetbreads. veal and and breadod calves' sweetbreads. cutlets) of of veal A la
garnished with with cocks' cocks' Small tartlets tartlets garnished h chalmmaise
cnabnnaise - Small (see kidneys sauce (see Veloutd sauce concentrated Velouté
kidneys blended with concentrated blended with SAUCE); cocks' combs combs à d la la
Villeroi; Villeroi; slices slices of of truffles; trufles; SAUCE); cocks'
mushrooms. Sauce. (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Suprême Supr€me sauce Uses.
poultry; calves' poached or calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads poached or Uses. For
For poultry; braised white stock. stock. braised in in a a white Cbambord
quenelles; mushrooms; Large and small fish fish quenelles; Chambord and small
mushrooms ; - Large fillets u téed in tter; truffles fillets of sole; soft soft
roes roes sa saut6ed in bu butter; trufles cut cut to to look look of sole; like
freshwater crayfish crayfish cooked cooked in in a a court-bouillon; court-
bouillon; like olives; olives; freshwater small small fried fried croûtons.
cro0tons. Sauce. sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Red Red wine wine sauce Uses. Uses. For
For large large braised fish. À - Very A la h cbanoinesse chanoinesseVery small
small carrots carrots in in cream cream mixed mixed with with coarsely Arranged as
for tartlets. coarsely chopped chopped truffles. trufres. Arranged as a a filling
filling for tartlets. Sauce. juices diluted Pan juices diluted with with sherry
sherry and and veal veal stock. stock. Sauce. Pan Uses. (see sweetbreads; Suprême
Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads; Supr€me of of chicken chickm (see
CHICKEN); CHICKEN); coddled coddled or or poached eggs. eggs. À A la hearts filled
filled with with chestnut chestnut h châtelaine chltelaine -- Artichoke hearts
purée pur6e mixed mixed with with rice, rice, sprinkled sprinkled with with
breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and
F' _ _ " __ ._! _

in butter. browned; browned; braisod braised lettuce; potato potato balls browned
in juices of pan juices of the diluted pan Sauce. Thickened veal veal stock or
diluted main dish. Uses. For large cuts of meat. pLUcHEs DE CERFEUIL of stalk All
traces of cERFEUIL Chervil leaves. leaves. PLUCHES - AIl Most and fibre should be
removed removed from the leaves of chervil. Most pur6ed vegetables should should
have of whole or puréed soups with a base ofwhole quart, litre (scant quart, to
every every litre chervil added added - 1 teaspoon to chervil generous quart) soup.
soup. Because of the very delicate aromatic the soup at herb, the leaves must be be
addd to the flavour of this herb, the soup is is off the the boil. when the the
last moment, when For soup. Uses. For leaves and and sorrel shredded lettuce leaves
Chifionnade - Finely shredded Chiffonnade used in in many is used This chiffonnade
chffinnade is in butter. butter. This slowly in stewed slowly stewed different
soups. different green cabbage stuffed with with A la h cbinonaise chinonaise À -
Small rolls of green potatoes sprinkled chopped sprinkled with chopped sausage meat
and braised; potatoes parsley. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce.
meat. of meat. large cuts of Uses. For large Uses. glazed onions; onions; small
glazed chestnuts; small Braised chestnuts; Chipolata - Braised sausages ;
mushrooms. chipolata lta sausages; Chlpclla (se SAUCE) or the the braising braising
SAUCE) or sauce (see Sauce. Demi-glace sauce stock of the main dish. and diced,
blanched, blanched, and coarsely diced, bacon, coarsely lean bacon, Sometimes
Sometimes lean also served. served. is also carrots, is braised carrots, in butter
butter with braised browned in of meat meat or or poultry. cuts of Uses. Uses. For
large cuts hearts artichoke hearts butter; artichoke Cboron - Potato balls browned
in butter; Choronin butter. butter. simmered in (or asparagus tips) and and
simmered asparagus tips) filled filled with peas (or (se SAUCE) with flavoured with
SAUCE) flavoured sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Biarnaise sauce dish. round the the main
main dish. in a a ring round arranged in tomato, tomato, arranged grilled. or
grilled. meat, fried fried or small cuts cuts of meat, Uses. For small Uses. For
pnonrERoLEs - Using (see paste (see Chou paste paste balls. Using Chou Chou balls.
PROFITEROLES Chcr paste out squeeze out round nozzle, nozzle, squeeze with a a
round in a forcing-bag with DOUGH) DOUGII) in a forcing-bag in a a of a nut. nut.
Bake Bake in size ofa each the the size sheet little little balls each onto a
baking sheet onto a for 20 20 to to 25 25 minutes. minutes. me)derat:ely hot oyen
oven for moderately hot puree or other In,!!:reclle!lt ingredient a purée or
whatever whatever other Stuff with a Stuff the balls with soup in which which for
the the soup to the the recipe recipe for is te, according according to is
appropria appropriate, up. heat them and heat them up. served, and they are are to
to be be served, For soup. Uses. For peas in in filled with with peas Artichoke
hearts hearts filled À A la Clamart Clamart I Artichoke potato balls in butter.
butter. butter; potato balls browned browned in (see sauce (see Demi'glace sauce
wr/.h Demi-glace Sauce. stock blended blended with Veal stock Sauce. Veal SAUCE).
sAUCE). meat. Uses. small cuts cuts of of meat. For large or or smaU Uses. For
garnish 1/ /1(below). A la St Germain Germain garnish See St h Clamart Chmart tr --
See green cabbage stuffod and Rolls of of green À A la Clermont Clermont - Rolls
(pickled) pork cooked with braised; of salt salt (pickled) slices of rectangular
slices braised; rectangular potatoes. the the cabbage; potatoes. (se, SAUCE) or the
the braising braising Sauce. sauce (see SAUCE) or Sauce. Demi-glace sauce liquor.
liquor. Uses. meat. large cuts cuts of of meat. For large Uses. For in garnish.
ROGNONS DE COQ coQ - Wash Wash in Cocks' RocNoNs DE as gamish. Cocks' kidneys
kidneys as kidneys. Put Put (a oz.) g. (4 cocks' kidneys. several firm, white white
cocks' 100 g. oz.) finn, waters 100 several waters (6 tablespoons, scant them
tablespoons, scant with 1 I dl. dl. (6 a small small saucepan with them into into a
pinch of salt, o2.,2 tablespoons) t* cup) water, 2 tablespoons) salt, 25 25 g. (1
water, a a pinch Qoz., "up) butter of lemon lemon juice. and a a few few drops
drops of butter and good heat. soon as the liquid liquid Start heat. As As soon as
the a good over a Start cooking cooking over begins cookitg, very low and continue
continue cooking, heat very low and turn the the heat to boil boil turn begins to
covered, avoid boiling. boiling. care to to avoid taking care 12 minutes, minutes,
taking l0 to to 12 covered, for for 10 Use recipe. to the the recipe. according to
Use according (rolled into À - Small into puree of lentils (rolled of lentils Small
croquettes of of purée A la h Conti Contiballs); in butter. potato€s cut fried in
butter. olives, fried like olives, cut to to look like balls); potatoes Sauce.
Demi-glace and Demi-glace with Madeira Madeira and diluted with Pan juices diluted
Sauce. Pan (see SAUCE). sauce sauce(s* Uses. of meat. meat. For small small cuts
cuts of Uses. For (4oz., g.(4 1 cup) o2.,1 100g. dish 100 Place in inan
anearthenware earthenware dish Cr0pes - Place Add 22whole wholeeggs, eggs, mix I
teaspoon teaspoon table tablesalt. salt. Add sieved flour and and1

- I

412 412
GARNISHES GARNISHES
well, and and dilute dilute the the mixture mixture with with 2f 2i dl. (scant
(scant I i pint, pint, generous generous well, boiled milk. milk. cup) boiled Make
pancakes pancakes and use them as appropriate. appropria te. Clear soup soup Make
in the the preparation of this may be be used used instead instead of milk in may
garnish. garnish. For soup. soup. Uses. For CROÛTES Croûtes ganrished gamished and
and browned à l'ancienne. cno0rrs Cro0tes GARNIES rr ET cneuN6ps GRATINÉES A À
t'lNctsNNEL'ANCIENNE - Cut Cut a long long French loaf cARNIES into slices slices 3
to 4 cm. cm. (li inches) incbes) thick. thick. Scoop out three three into quarters
of the bread to make nests. Brush with butter or fat from a pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu.
Toast Toast lightly in the oven. oyen. Chop or fat sieve the vegetables from the
pot-au-feu, pot-au-feu, add grated cheese, cheese, mixture. and garnish garnisb the
the bread with little !ittle mounds of this mixture. and these cro0tes croûtes on
on a a baking sheet sheet and and sprinkle with Place these few drops drops of the
the fat, fat, and grated cheese. cheese. Moisten with a a few grated 'brown.
·brown. soup. Uses. For clear soup. of sandwich sandwich loaf loaf into into cubes
approxiCroûtons - Dice slices slices of cubes approxiCroiitons(i inch) across. Fry
them in clarified clarified butter butter just mately i * cm. (* before serving.
serving. Uses. For soups. Allow 50 g. (2 oz.) fried fried bread for every Uses.
generous quart) soup. litre (scant quart, generous pur6e, Ah la CussyCussy-
Artichoke hearts hearts filled with musbroom mushroom purée, A kidneys; sprinkled
cocks'kidneys; sprinkled with breadcrumbs and and browned; cocks' shredded
truffies. shredded Sauce. fiavoured with Madeira Madeira or port. Sauce. Sauce
flavoured Uses. For sm aIl cuts of meat; small mebt; poultry, whole or jointed. À
tai! ragoût Nantua (see la Nantua ragofit à d la A la h Daumont - Crayfish Crayfish
tail CRA YFISH) (in scallop shells or pastry pastry boats); boats); large fish fish
CRAYFISH) QUENELLES), decorated with truffies; quenelles (see QUENELLES), quenelles
(see decorated with truffies; truffles cut fillets of sole in fancy fancy shapes;
cut in fillets sole decorated with with truffies slices of truffie; mushrooms
cooked in tn court-bouillon. (se,e SAUCE) witb Sauce. Normande Normande sauce (see
with Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Uses . For
large baked fish. Uses. (see POT À Dauphine potatoes potatoes (see ATOES).
POTATOES). Dauphlre A la h Dauphine - Dauphine Sauce. veal stock. Sauce. Roast pan
juices or clear veal Uses. meat. small cuts of meaL Uses. For large or small is
covered prepared à À demi-denil is d la demi-deuil A la ta demi-deuildeni-deuil -
Food prepared (se SAUCE) garnished with shed with with SAUCE) and and garni with a
sauce (see a Suprême Supr€me sauce truffies. Uses. poached poultry and veal veal
braised braised à d blanc. Uses. For poached (shelled) in À wine; tails tails of of
Mussels (sbelled) in white wine; A la U dieppoise aieppoise - Mussels freshwater
crayfish, grey grey or pink (shelled); mushrooms. (se SAUCE). Sauce. White wine
sauCe saucq (see SAUCE). Sauce. White poached in Uses. in white wine. Uses. For
fish fish poached Dubarry masked with with into balls, balls, masked shaped into
Dubarry - Caulifiower Cauliflower shaped grated cheese Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) and
cheese and SAUCE) sprinkled with grated browned. Uses. small cuts of meat. Uses.
Large or small

(lj

A À ta la duchesse duchesse - Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES)

POT ATOES) in different shapes according according to the nature of of the main
dish. dish. Sauce. Thickened veal stock or roast pan pan juices. juices. Uses. For
large or small cuts of of meat. meat. Duroc Duroc - New potatoes (very small),
browned in butter. butter. Sauce. Chasseur sauce (s* (see SAUCE) cooked in the the
pan pan used for the main dish. disb. Uses. For small cuts of of meat and poultry,
saut6ed. sautéed. Duxelles DuxeUes - Chopped mushrooms browned in butter and oil
mixed with chopped cbopped onions and shallots, moistened moistened with white
white wine, with chopped parsley added. Uses. For small cuts of meat. Favart Favart
- Chicken Chicken quenelles quenelles seasoned with with chopped tarragon, tartlets
of rich pastry filled with a salpicon salpicon of mushmushrooms (cdpes) (cèpes) in
cream. cream. (se SAUCE) of Velouti sauce (see of chicken with Sauce. Sauce. Thick
Velouté butters). Compound butters). Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound
sweetbreads. Uses. For poultry; veal; sweetbreads. quarters of A artichokes) Small
artichokes (or quarters Àh la favorite favorite - Small of articbokes) braised;
lettuces lettuces stuffed and braised; mushrooms cooked in small Anna with mixed
diced vegetables; vegetables; small butter and and filled filled with mixed diced
potatoes POTATOES) A TOES) baked in individual moulds mou Ids and potatoes (see POT
turned out. (see veal stock, stock, Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. Thickened
Thickened veal Sauce. Demi-glace sauce juices of the main dish. SAUCE) or the
diluted pan juices and small cuts of meal. meat. Uses. For large and (q.v.) A Ia
fermilre afondue A la fermière fondue (q. v.) - Artichoke hearts filled with a
lettuces. vegetables; braised lettuces. of mixed vegetables; (se SAUCE). SAUCE).
Sauce. Demi-glace Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see Uses. For large cuts of meat.
quenelles; cocks' combs combs A la U financière nnancilre veal quenelles; A -
Chicken or veal and Stoned and truffies. Stoned kidneys; mushrooms; mushrooms;
shredded and kidneys; shredded truffies. and are sometimes sometimes freshwater
crayfish crayfish are olives, and and freshwater blanched blanched olives, added.
(se SAUCE). SAUCE). Financiire sauce (see Sauce. Financière Sauce. meat; calves'
calves' sweetsmall cuts cuts of of meat; Uses. For For large large and and small
Uses. poultry; vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, etc. etc. breads; poultry;

a fillel fillet of of beef beef la flamande flamande round round a Garnish à d la

Gamish

Garnish (Debillot. Phol. Iarousse) Garnish Dubarry Dubarry (Debillol. Phot.

Larousse)

stuffed, rolled rolled up, up, and and A la h flamande flamande -- Green Green
cabbage cabbage stuffed, À large oval oval shapes shapes trimmed into into large
braised; carrots carrots and and turnips turnips trimmed braised; glazed; potatoes.
potatoes. Diced pork fat fat and sausage Diced pork and slices slices of of sausage
and glazed; and cooked with with tbe the cabbage cabbage a,re a-re sometimes
sometimes added added. . cooked (se SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see veal stock,
stock, or or the the SAUCE), veal Sauce. Demi-glace Sauce. juices of pan juices
diluted pan of the the main main dish. dish. diluted For large large and small cuts
cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. For and small Uses. potato balls sautEed in in butter;
balls h forestière forestilre -- Morels Morels sautéed butter; potato A la
(pickled) pork, pork, diced, salt (pickled) diced, browned in in butter. Sometimes
salt browned butter. Sometimes fried in in butter is added. added. blancbed, butter
is blanched, and and fried
413 413
GARNISHES GARNISHES
(see SAUCE), Sauce. SAUCE), reduced Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see reduced veal
stock, or the diluted dilutod pan juices of the main dish. Uses.Large Uses. Large
and and small pieces of meat; poultry. A from Duchess À h la frangaise française -
Small Sm ail nests made from Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT
ATOES) hollowed hollowed out, dipped in egg and and breadcrumbs, vegetables;
crumbs, fried, fried, and and filled filled with with diced diced mixed mixed
vegetables; bunches ofcaulibunches of asparagus tips; braised lettuces; florets of
cau liflower coated with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Thin
Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) or clear veal gravy. large cuts of meat. meat. Uses.
For large Gorenffot shredded red GorenOot - Braised Braised coarsely coarsely
shredded red cabbage; cabbage;

rounds of Saveloy Saveloy sausage sausage cooked cooked with with the rounds of the
cabbage; cabbage;

Potatoes d la Ia ménagère mdnagire (see Potatoes à (see POTATOES). POT A TOES).

Sauce. Braising stock. Sauce. Braising meat. Uses. For large braised cuts of meat.
Gouffé - Little Little nests nests of Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES)
POT ATOES) Gouff6of Duchess

cream: fried and and hollowed hollowed out out to to hold hold morels morels cooked
in in cream; fried
asparagus asparagus tips in butter. Madeira and Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main
dish blended with Madeira

beef A Frascati Frascati gamish garnish round round a fillet fille! of ofbeef A

Frascati Frascati - Large baked baked mushrooms, some sorne filled with a salpicon
of truffies, truffies, others others with buttered buttered greur green asparagus
asparagus tips; small slices of/ore of foie gras saut6ed sautéed in butter. Sauce.
Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with
port. Uses. For large large cuts of meat. meat. A À la gauloise gauloise I 1-
Tartlets Tartlets filled with cocks' kidneys; kidneys; cocks' combs combs fried ri
à la la Villeroi; mushrooms; mushrooms; trufles. truffies. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan
juices juices of of the main main dish dish diluted diluted with with white white
wine. Uses. For small cuts cuts of of meat; jointed poultry. poultry. A Ah la
gauloise gauloise tr II - Pastry boats filld filled with a salpicon salpicon of
truffies and mushrooms ci à la crime; crème; potato patata croquettes; croquettes;
freshfreshwater water crayfish cooked in a court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Sauce.
Matelote Matelote sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. For large large baked or
poached poached fish. Glazed Gh~zed carrots for garnish gamish - See CARROTS.
CARROTS. Glazed Glazed ltalian Italian marrow (zucchini) gamish gamish - See
ITALIAN IT ALlAN MARROW. Glazed onions onions for garnish. orcNoNs OIGNONS cLAcES
GLACÉS - Skin small, uniform-sized unifonn-sized onions. Fry them very lightly
lighily in butter in a shallow season. shaIJow pan. Sprinkle Sprinkle with a little
!ittle sugar sugar and season. Moisten Moisten with stock (or (or water, water, if
if the garnish is is required for a Lente,n Lenten dish) so that the liquid liquid
does not quite quite cover coyer them. them. Simmer gently gently with the lid on
the pan pan until the liquid !iquid has completely completely disappeared.
disappeared. If, after this reduction of liquid, liquid, the onions are not yet yet
cooked, add a few tablespoons of hot stock, finish cooking cooking and glaze,
without without stirring them. them. God$dGodard - Large Large decorated quenelles;
quenelles; small small poultry poultry orveal or veal quenelles with with truffies;
truffies; sheeps' sheeps' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, braised braised and glazed;
cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys; small truffies, whole or cut to look look
like olives; mushroom mushroom caps. garnish is is for for a a substantial
substantial second second course, course, When this garnish sweetbreads stuffed
with bacon and braised may be be calves' sweetbreads substituted for the sheep's
sweetbreads. sweetbreads. (For (For fuller informainformasubstituted CHICKEN,
Chickm Chicken d à la Godard.\ Godard.) tion, see CHICKEN, Sauce. Godard Godard
sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). For large large cuts of of meat; meat;
poultry. poultry. Uses. For

thickened veal stock. and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and meat. of potatoes
la dauphinoise. Gratin dauphinois. dauphinois. Gratin Gratin of potatoes à
dauphinoise. Gratin i la r.e n.c,upHrNorsE GRA TIN DE poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE À LA
DAUPHINOISE - Slice thinly cRATTN TERRE A 1 ke.(41b.) kg. (2i lb.) potatoes. Season
pepper and put I Season with salt and pepper them in an ovenproof ovenproof dish
previously previously rubbed with with garlic and butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle grated
cheese on the potatoes, spread out in butter. the dish in even layers. layers. (1
pint, of 2 eggs eggs and 6 dl. (I cups) over this this a mixturc mixture of pint,
2f 21 cups) Pour over grated nutmeg. little salt, salt, and boiled milk, milk, a
a !ittle and a boiled a dash dash of of grated Sprinkle with grated cheese and
butter. Sprinkle and dot the top with butter. Bring to the boil on the stove and
complete the cooking cooking in Bring oyen for about 40 minutes. Serve in the
baking dish. the oven omitted if desired, desired, The garlic gar!ic and grated
nutmeg may be be omitted though, strictly speaking, they form an an essential
seasoning thoug[ seasoning of this dish. à la savoyarde. cnrrrN GRATIN DE DE poMMEs
POMMES DE Gratin of potatoes i TERRE À r,c. LA s,avovARDE SA VOY ARDE - Prepared as
as for Gratin dauphinois, fiRRE A dauphinois, substituting substituting clear c1ear
stock for the milk. Helder - Potato Potato balls browned in butter: butter;
Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE), traced in a circle circ1e on the meat;
meat; thick Tomato fondue (see FONDUE) FONDUE) placed placed in the the middle
middle of the bearnaise béarnaise fondue sauce. sauce. Meat juices of of the main
dish blended blended with reduced reduced Sauce. Meat veal stock. Uses. For small
saut6ed sautéed cuts of meat. meat. - Artichoke Artichoke hearts filled with
Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce Henry IV (see (see SAUCE) with concentrated veal
veal stock added; potato shredded truffies. balls browned in butter; shreddod
Madeira and Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended with Madeira thickened veal
stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat. meat. À h la hongroise hongroise I 1- Large
florets of of cauliflower cauliflower coated with A Mornay sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE), SAUCE), seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, Mornay breadcrumbs
and browned browned under under the grill; grill; sprinkled with breadcrumbs p ot
at o fondante POT ATOES). patata fondantes (see POTATOES). s (see Thin Demi-glace
Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Thn of meat. meat. Uses. For
large and small cuts of À la la hongroise hongroise II II - Nests Nests of of
Duchess Duchess potato patata (see A POTATOES) POT ATOES) garnished garni shed with
florets florets of cauliflower cau!iflower coated coated with Mornay Mornay sauce
(see SAUCE), SAUCE), to which which is added chopped seasoned with paprika.
paprika. onion simmered in butter and seasoned juices of the main dish dish blended
with cream, cream, Sauce. Pan juices seasoned with paprika and and thickened with a
little little Velouti Velouté Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce
or Bichamel sauce smaIJ cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. For small Àh la hongroise
hongroise Itr ID - Rice Rice pilaf; pilaf; diced diced tomatoes tomatoes simmered
simmered in A butter. Sauce. Hongroise Hongroise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Sauce. sautéed. Uses. For poultry, poached or saut6ed. garnish - See
JAPONAISE JAPONAISE (A (À LA). Japanese garni$ À la jardinilre jardinière - Glazed
carrots carrots and turnips in small oval A with a ball-scoop); bali-scoop); peas;
French beans; beans; shapes (or rounded with shapes smaJl kidney kidney beans beans
in butter butter - all ail disposed disposed round round the the dish in small
separate groups. separate Florets of of cauliflower, cauliflower, coated with
Hollandaise sauce (see Florets sometimes added. added. SAUCE) or melted butter are
sometimes c1ear veal stock. Sauce. Pan juices or clear cuts of meat. meat. Uses.
For large and small cuts

414
GARNISHES
Tiny artichokes cooked cooked in in butter, butter, stuffed stuffed with a a
Jessica - Tiny salpicon of of bone-marrow bone-marrow with with shallots; shallots;
morels morels sautéed saut6ed in in salpicon potatoes (see (see POT butter; Anna
potataes POTATOES) in individual butter; ATOES) baked in moulds. (s* SAUCE) Sauce.
Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE) increased bya by a third Sauce. with
concentrated (see concentrated veal veal stock stock and and Truffle Truffie
essence essence (see with ESSENCE). (see CHICKEN); Uses. For For Suprême SuprAme of
of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); veal Uses. (U.S.. cutlets); coddled or poached
eggs. escalopes (U.S Joinville of shrimps, Salpicon of shrimps, truffies and and
mushrooms, Joinville - Salpicon blended into (se SAUCE); into Velouté Velouti sauce
or Normande Normande sauce (see SAUCE); blended truffies. sliced truffles. Squce.
Normande (see BUTTER, Normande sauce saucewith butter (see Sauce. with Shrimp
butter Compound butters). Compound Uses. For baked fish. Uses. Shred into into
matchstick strips, carrots, turnips, Julienne - Shred and celery. celery. Cook them
in in butter until until tender. leeks, onions, and clear meat stock. If If a
vegetarian soup is is required, water Add clear is added added instead instead of
of stock. stock. To To this this mixture mixture add add shredded is
cabbageandlettuce I or freshpeas, or2 cabbage and lettuce hearts, fresh peas, and 1
2 tablespoons shreddod sorrel. shredded For soup. Uses. For A la h languedocienne
hnguedocienne Cdpes sautéed oil; diced saut6ed in butter or oil; A - Cèpes or
sliced sliced aubergines fried in aubergines fried in oil; oil; potatoes cut cut to
to look look like or olives and cooked slowly in clarified butter. (see SAUCE)
Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured Sauce. Demi-glace
sauce tomato. Uses. For large and small and sm aIl cuts of meat; poultry. Uses. A
la la lorraine Red cabbage braised in red red wine; wine; Potato A braised in - Red
(see POTATOES). POTATOES). fondantes (see Sauce. Diluted Demi-glace (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) or braising Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see stock; in in addition, Horseradish
(see SAUCE) served sauce (see stock; Horseradish sauce grated horseradish.
separately, or grated horseradish. separately, Uses. For large cuts of meat,
particularly braised braised cuts. A la la lyonnaise Medium-sized stuffed onions,
onions, braised; lyonnaise - Medium-sized (see POT Potato POTATOES). ATOES). Po
tata fondantes fondantes (see (se SAUCE). Sauce. Lyonnaise sauce (see Sauce. Uses.
For large cuts of meat. meat. Macedoine which have have been of vegetables
vegetables which Macédoine Mixture of - Mixture water separately, separately,
drained, and tossed in butter; in water drained, and cooked in carrots and turnips
turnips diced or shaped with a ball-scoop; bali-scoop; diced French small kidney
kidney beans; etc. Cauliflower Cauliflower French beans; beans; smaIl beans; peas,
peas, etc. florets may be added. Sauce. Juices of the roast or clear veal stock.
Sauce. small cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large or smaU Maillot I (also
PorteMaillot) Maillot 1 (also called caUed Porte-MaiUot) - Glazed carrots and
turnips in small oval lengths (or a ball-scoop); ovallengths (or shaped with a
bali-scoop); French French beans in in butter; butter; braised lettuces. lettuces.
These vegetables, vegetables, arranged round the dish in separate groups, are
sometimes sometimes glazd, onions interspersod knobs of of cauli-. caulionions and
and knobs interspersed with with little little glazed flower sprinkled with melted
butter. butter. (se, SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce SAUCE) flavoured fiavoured with
Sauce. sauce (see Madeira. Madeira. Uses. For large large cuts of meat, especially
especially ham. Maillot Coarsely shredded Maillot II II - Coarsely shredded carrots
carrots and and turnips, turnips, simmered French beans in butter. butter in a a
covered covered pan; French butter. simmered in butter Sauce and uses. As Maillot
Maillot I. 1. A la h maraîcbère naralch0re trimmed into large Carrots trimmed large
ovallengths oval lengths A - Carrots glazed; small glazed on and glazed; small
glazed onions; slices of thick slices of stuffed stuffed and and and ions ; thick
quartered artichokes braised cucumber; cucumber; quartered artichokes which which
have have been braised simmered in in butter in in a a covered covered pan.
simmered Sauce. Strained Strained braising liquor, liquor, with aU all fat fat
removed. removed. Sauce. Uses. For large large braised cuts of meat. braised cuts
meat. Uses. la marécbale marechale tips in in butter; sliced truffles. trufres. A
la - Asparagus tips d la la maréchale marichale are are dipped dipped in in a a
mixture Ingredients prepared à of two two thirds thirds breadcrumbs and and one one
third third finely finely chopped chopped of truffies. (see BUTTER, Mattre d'hôtel
Sauce. Maitre d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound Sauce. (see
SAUCE). butters) or or Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce (see SAUCE). butters) (see
CHICKEN); Uses. For Suprême SuprAme of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); escalopes
escalopes Uses. (U.S. of veal; sweetbreads; sweetbreads; sometimes fillets fillets
of of fish. (U .S. cutlets) of h Marigny -- SmaU Small artichoke artichoke he
hearts filled wi with corn A la arts filled th corn kernels in cream; potato balls,
balls, browned in in butter. kernels juices of the main dish diluted with white
wine Sauce. Pan juices Sauce. and thickened veal veal stock. and Uses. For small
cuts cuts of meat. Uses. h marinière marinilre Shelled mussels cooked cooked in in
white white wine; wine: A la - Shelled crayfish. shelled tails of freshwater
crayfish. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Mariniire SAUCE). Sauce. Marinière sauce (see Uses.
For fish. fish. Uses. Marivaux (see Oval nests nests made Duchess potato made of of
Duchess Marivaux potata (see - Oval POTATOES), in the the oven, filled filled with
a a mixture of of POT ATOES), browned in finely chopped carrots, celery, celery,
artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, and and mushfinely rooms all been simmered in
butter in a covered been simmered - which have aIl pan and (see SAUCE) blended with
and blended with Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) pan sprinkled with with
Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sprinkled
browned; French beans in butter. (see SAUCE) or thickened Sauce. Thin Demi-glace
sauce (see Sauce. veal stock. veal Uses. For large large cuts cuts of meat. Uses. A
la la marocaine pilaf, lightly marocaine lightly seaA - Little mounds of rice
pilaf, (to be soned with with saffron saffron (to used as be used as canapés);
canapis); diced diced baby soned (U.S. marrows zucchinis) sautéed saut6ed in in
oil; oil; braised braised sweet .S. zucchinis) marrows (U stuffed with chicken
forcemeat. peppers stuffed Pan juices diluted with tomato tomato juice. Sauce. Pan
juices diluted juice. Uses. For noisettes of mutton or lamb. A la h mascotte
mascotte artichoke hearts sautéed saut6ed in butter; A - Sliced artichoke potatoes
trimmed into into small small oval oval lengths, lengths, browned potatoes trimmed
browned in butter; trufres. bu tter; sliced truffies. d la mascotte are usually
served in in a Ingredients prepared à deep pie dish or in earthenware dishes.
Sauce. Pan juices white wine wine and and thickened Sauce. juices diluted with
white veal stock. small cuts of meat; poultry. Uses. For smaIl Mrssena garnished
with hearts garnished with strips strips of Massena Artichoke hearts - Artichoke
poached bone-marrow. bone-marrow. (se SAUCE) prepared by Sauce. Marrow sauce by
diluting Sauce. sauce (see the the marrow has been cooked. the juices juices in
which themarrow been cooked. small cuts of meat. Uses. For smaU Massenet- Anna
potatoes individual mou moulds Massenetpotatoes baked in individual Ids and (see
POT turned out (see POTATOES, turned out ATOES, Anna potatoes potatoes for for
garnish); small artichokes artichokes filled with a a salpicon salpicon of of bone-
marrow; bone-marrow; small filled with French beans in butter. butter. Sauce. Meat
juices dish or a a Demi-glace sauce Sauce. juices of the main dish (see SAUCE)
flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. (see Uses. For large or small cuts of meat. meat.
glazd onions; Matelote onions; mushrooms; mushrooms; small Matelote - Small Small
glazed cro0tons croûtons fried in butter. butter. (se SAUCE) with red wine. Sauce.
Matelote Sauce. Matelote sauce (see Uses. For fish. Matignm stuffed with with a a
matignon matignon Matignon Artichoke hearts hearts stuffed - Artichoke (q.v.),
sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and and browned; stuffed (q.v.), braised
lettuces. lettuces. Sauce. Madeira (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Madeira sauce or
Port wine sauce (ser, Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. meat.
415 415

Maillot Maillot garnish gamish round round a a ham

GARNISHES GARNISHES
Very small small tomatoes filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon of Melba -
Very Velouti sauce in Velouté blendod in chicken, truffies, and and mushrooms,
blended (see SAUCE), sprinkled with breadcrumbs and and browned; (see sprinkled
with braised lettuce. flavoured with port. Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock
fiavoured Uses. For small cuts of meat. slices of small small vegetable vegetable
marrows Mentonnaise Thick slices - Thick stuffed with tomato-fiavoured rice; small
cooked artichokes tomato-flavoured rice; to look a covered pan; potatoes cut cut to
simmered in butter in a clarified butter. like olives and cooked slowly in
c1arified (se Thickened veal veal stock stock or or Demi-glace sauce sauce (see
Sauce. Sauce. Thickened SAUCE). SAUCE). and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and
curriod rice to be Mikado rice to used as Small mounds mounds of curried be used -
Small filled with soya bean shoots in cream. canapis; tartlets filled canapés;
(see, SAUCE) with soya added. Sauce. Sauce. Curry sauce (see suprAmes of chicken,
escalopes (U.S. cutlets) of Uses. For suprêmes veal. (see MACARONI); Macaroni à
MACARONI); Milanaise Milanaise 1 |d l'italienne I'italienne (see - Macaroni cooked
ham in dariole moulds. tomato. Sauce. Sauce. Veal stock flavoured with tomato.
Uses. For large pieces of meat. lozenges and Mlanaise tr - Semolina gnocchi (cut in
lozenges rec:tallgleS) .. init-IM with cheese and browned. u"p,,,_,,,;;,,~.
rectangles) "", sprinkled Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock fiavoured flavoured
with tomato. (se MACARONI); Milanaise m IIId l'italienne I'italienne (see
MACARONI); Milanaise - Macaroni Macaroni à ham, pickled cooked harn, pickled
tongue, mushrooms, and truffies, cut flavoured into strips and blended blended in
concentrated veal stock fiavoured a coarw julienne. with toma to, making a tomato,
either mixed with the macaroni or arranged Thisjulienne This julienne is either in
a circle round it. especially veal cutlets (U.S. Uses. For small cuts of meat
especially chops) in breadcrumbs. Mirabeau Stoned olives; olives; anchovy anchovy
fillets; fillets; blanched Mirabeau - Stoned and occasionally occasionally
matchstick matchstick tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Watercress and potatoes are
also included in this garnish. Compound butters). butters). Sauce. Anchovy Anchovy
butter (see BUTTER, Compound gnlled steaks. especially grilled Uses. For small cuts
of meat especially (q.v.) of vegetables in A h moderne Charteuse (q.v.) rn dariole
À la - Chartreuse potatoes. moulds; stuffed, braised lettuces; small potatoes.
moulds; Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock with butter added. Uses. Large cuts of
meaL meat. Little cakes of of spinach spinach with Parmesan cheese; Mont-Bry
cheese; - Little
cipes tn cream.
of the main dish blended blended with Sauce. Pan juices of with white wine and
thicklen(!<l thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat. Green asparagus
asparagus tips tips in in butter; butter; sliced Montpensier - Green

trufres. truffies. Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main main dish blended with Madeira
and thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat; jointed chicken. cooked in
in butter in in a Nanette Small artichoke hearts hearts cooked - Small (see crearn
(see covered pan, filled with Lettuce chiffonnade with cream mushrooms simmered in
in butter butter and CHIFFONNADE); . mushrooms filld with a salpicon of truffies
blended with a concentrated filled Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Demi-glace
of the main dish fiavoured flavoured with Marsala Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices of
(see SAUCE); sauce (see Velouti sauce and blended with with chicken chicken Velouté
and blended chicken jelly. cream and white chicken (U.S. chops); For lamb lamb
cutlets cutlets (U.S. chops); escalopes escalopes (U.S. Uses. Uses. For calves'
sweetbreads. cutlets) of veal; ca Ives' sweetbreads. Nantua ragofrt à d la Nantua
(see - Freshwater Crayfish tails ragoût in shells, pastry boats, or or tartlets,
CRA YFISH), arranged in CRAYFISH), in white white wine. or or set set on on a a
dish dish surrounding fish cookod in sometimes added. Shredded truffies are
sometimes (se SAUCE). Sauce. SAUCE). Sauce. Nantua sauce (see Uses. For fish.
416 416

-
Nichette filled with grated horseGrilled mushrooms filled - Grilled ragofit of
cocks' radish; ragoût cocks'combs and cocks' cocks'kidneys, blended radish; combs
and (se SAUCE). in Marrow sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Marrow sauce. Uses. For small
cuts of meat; suprAmes. A la Isimmerod in À niçoise 1 h nigoise Small skinned
tomatoes, tomatoes, simmered - Small (courgettes or vegetable marrows (courgettes
butter; very small braised vegetable stewed in zucchini); small small artichokes
artichokes stewed in butter; butter; potato balls browned in butter. butter.
Thickened veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato, tomato, or
Sauce. Sauce. Thickened pan juices of the main dish flavoured fiavoured with
tomato. Uses.Large and and small cuts ofmeat; of meat; poultry. A h nigoise n tr
simmered in butter with - Small tomatoes ",",,,,prl"f1 a little chopped garlic;
French beans in butter; new potatoes look like like olives and browned in butter,
or potatoes cut to to look browned clarified butter. cooked slowly in c1arified
Sauce and uses. As above. A h nigoise In Itr Tomato fondte d la nigoise (see -
Tomato TOMATO); blanched blanched green or black olives; anchovy fillets; capers.
fish, the fondue is cooked in the When served with baked fish, same dish as the
fish; for grilled fish, it is prepared separately. Uses. U.res. For fish. Ninon
Duchess potato (see POT POTATOES) filled Nests of Duchess ATOES) filled - Nests
kidneys blended with a a salpicon salpicon of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and
kidneys blended in with (se SA Velouti sauce (see Velouté UCE); asparagus tips in
butter. SAUCE); Sauce. Sauce. Marrow sauce (see SAUCE). meat. Uses. For small cuts
of meaL trimmed in small ovallengths; oval lengths; small Nivernaise Nivernaise
Carrots trimmed - Carrots glazed onions. SAUCE) if the main dish Sauce. Demi-glace
sauce (se SA UCE) or, if is braised, the braising stock. Uses. For large cuts of
meat. Normande trimmed and Oysters, trimmed and poached; mussels; - Oysters, "LU
lUI!:," , mushrooms; frp.,huI<lt/'r crayfish shrimps; mushrooms; shredded truffies;
truffies; freshwater cooked in in a court-bouillon; fried fried breaded a court-
bouillon; breadod gudgeon; bread cro0tons fried croûtons fried in butter. (se
SAUCE). Sauce. Normande sauce (see Sauce. Normande SAUCE). fish. See See SOLE (Sole
à normande). d la normande). Uses. For fish. Olives for garni$ - See OLIVES. A
I'orientale 1 IÀ - Small tomatoes stuffed with rice lightly (ladies' fingers)
flavoured with with saffron; saffron; okras okras (ladies' fingers) cooked cooked
in fiavoured butter; sweet peppers, and simmered in butter in a butter; peppers,
skinned and covered pan. garnish must not be of meat served with this The large
cuts ofmeat this garnish interlarded or wrapped in bacon. either interlarded Sauce.
Tomato sauce (se SAUCE) with butter. Sauce. and small cuts of meaL meat. Uses. For
large and Rice pilaf turned A l'orientale l'orientale II out of !ittle little
conical À turned out - Rice stuffed with a tomato moulds; cooked okra; small
tomatoes stuffed
salpicon.
Sauce and uses. As above. A h paloiseFrench beans paloise- Potato balls balls
browned in butter; French in cream. cream. (se SA SAUCE). Sauce. Paloise sauce (see
Sauce. UCE). Uses. For small cuts of grilled meat. (see POTAA la | - Potatoes
Potatoes à À POT Ah parisienne 1 d la parisienne (see

TOES); braised lettuce. Sauce. Sauce. Panjuices Pan juices of the main dish diluted
with white wine and veal stock. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat; poultry. A
la parisienne n tr - As above, using quartered artichokes À instead of lettuce.
pARMESAN - Mix in a bowl Pamesan Génoise. Au PARMESAN Parmesan G6noise. GÉNOISE
cfNoIsE AU gratd nutmeg, 2 2 egg a little 2 little grated egg yolks seasoned
seasoned with a 2 stiffiy beaten egg whites, 35 g. (U oz., oz., 6 tablespoons)
sieved fiour, flour, 50 g. (2 Q oz., I cup) grated Parmesan cheese. (3 inches)
Spread the mixture 7! 7l cm. cm. (3 inches) thick thick on on sheets sheets of

-
GARNISHES GARNISHES
paper very slow slow oyen oven and paper on a buttered baking tin. Bake in a very
(See poultry, game game or forcemeat. (See or fish fish forcemeat. may be be made
made of of fine fine poultry, may QUENELLES.) QUENELLES.) pan. and arrange arrange
in in a a buttered buttered pan. Pipe through a a forcing-bag and Pipe and cover
with with boiling boiling salt salt water water and before serving, serving, coyer
Ten minutes minutes before Ten garnish is to 40 40 of of these these no other is
used, used, 35 35 to simmer slowly. If If no other garnish sim mer slowly. (lf
pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) to every every litre litre (l~ should
be added added to balls should quenelles per per litre garnishes are litre 20
quenelles are used, used, 20 clear soup. If If other other garnishes clear soup.
(lf pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) will sufficient. will be be
sufficient. (l~ and somesomeshaped in in a a teaspoon teaspoon and Sometimes
Sometimes the the balls balls are are shaped (q.v.) of vegetables. a brunoise
brunoise (q.v.) of vegetables. times times stuffed stuffed with a Uses. Uses. For
soup. soup. poached, drained, drained, Rachel of bone-marrow, bone-marrow, poached,
Rachel -- Slices Slices of piece of grilled, and itself is is set set on on
grilled, top of a piece of meat, meat, which which itself and set set on on top of
a artichoke in butter. butter. artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered in (se
SAUCE). Sauce. Bordelaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Bordelaise grilled meat.
pieces of Uses. meat. Uses. For For small small pieces of grilled recipe for for
Ravioli in the the recipe the ravioli ravioli as as described described in Prepare
the - Prepare (q.v.), but ravioli (q.v.), very small. Fill them thern with with
chicken, chicken, make very small. Fill but make gras, or forcemeat. SimSimfoie
flavoured forcemeat. or any any other other delicately delicately flavoured foie
gras, mer mer and and drain. drain. Uses. soup. to clear Uses. Add Add to clear
soup. Régence quenelles decorated with truffles, truffies, small small Large
quenelles decorated with R6gence - Large gras sautéed chicken foie gras quenelles,
slices cocks' saut6ed in in butter, butter, cocks' chicken quenelles, slices of
of/ole (or truffles combs, truffies cut cut in in slices of of truffles truffies
(or combs, mushrooms, mushrooms, thick thick slices preparation of ovals). for the
of this this instructions for the preparation ovals). For For detailed detailed
instructions dish rigence. d la la régence. dish see Chicken à see CHICKEN,
CHICKEN, Chicken (ser', SAUCE). Sauce. Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce.
Allemande Uses. poultry, sweetbreads, poultry, of white meat, calves' calves'
sweetbreads, Uses. For For cuts cuts of white meat, savoury vol-au-vent. flans and
and tarts, tarts, vol-au-vent. savoury flans

allow to cool. Cut into shapes. Uses. For soup. garnish). PÂTÉS DTvERSES Pasta and
cereals (soup garnish). rArfs DIVERSES 60 g. - 60 (2i pasta or vennicelli for each
be used used for vermicelli should be (2~ oz.) oz.) Italian pasta generous quart)
quart) soup. litre (lf (1 ~ pints, pints, generous Cooking time time varies soup.
Cooking from 8 to 14 minutes, according to the size and quality of the pasta pas ta
used. used. (3f oz.) pastina or pasta beads should be used for each 80 g. (3ieach
quart) clear soup. (l~ pints, pints, generous quart) soup. Cooking Cooking time is
litre (lf 22 to 25 minutes. minutes. 22to25 (21oz.) approximately 70 g. (2~ oz.)
tapioca, sago, salep to sago, or salep Use approximately (l~ pints, generous quart)
clear 1 litre (l| is I Cooking time is clear soup. Cooking 20 minutes. (lf (2 oz.,
i g. (2 50 be used used for every litre (I~ 50 g. f cup) rice should be pouring
boiling pints, generous pints, generous quart) quart) clear After pouring clear
soup. soup. After water over it, the rice should be cooked in in the clear clear
soup soup for for 25 minutes. À la persane saut6ed A h persane - Rounds or long
slices of aubergines sautéed in oil; onion rings fried in oil; Tomatofondue FONDUE)
Tomatofondue (see FONDUE) pep pers (to decorate with peppers decorate the the other
garnishes). Sauce. Panjuices or lamb stock stock Pan juices of the main dish or
mutton or flavoured with tomato. Uses. (U.S. chops) of mutton mutton or Uses.
Cutlets chops) and and noisettes noisettes of or Cutlets (U.S. lamb. À la (mixed
with pi6montaise risotto (mixed with a A h piémontaise of risotto a - Croquettes of
salpicon pickled tongue, tongue, and and ham) ham) salpicon of truffles, truffies,
mushrooms, pickled shaped to look like corks. Sauce. Sauce. Thin tomato tomato
sauce. sauce. Uses. cuts of of meat. Uses. For large cuts À (q.v.); portugaise A la
stuffed with with duxelles duxelles (q.v.); h portugaise - Tomatoes stuffed
potatoes potatoes cut to look like olives and cooked slowly in clarified clarified
slowly in butter. Sauce. (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce
(see Sauce. Veal Veal stock stock or flavoured with tomato. Uses. Uses. For large
cuts cuts of meat. Prince Albert in a in butter butter in a Whole truffles truffies
simmered simmered in - Whole covered covered pan. The prepared according recipe is
is The fillet to this this recipe fillet of of beef beef prepared according to
stuffed (see BEEF, Fillet Albert). Fillet ofbeef of beef Prince Albert). stuffed
withfoie withfoie gras (see Sauce. Madeira or or the main dish dish flavoured
flavoured with with Madeira Sauce. Juices Juices of the port; thickened veal stock.
stock. Uses. Uses. For fillet of beef. À tips in in butter butter or or cream;
cream; diced diced A la h princesse Asparagus tips - Asparagus or sliced sliced
truffies. Sauce. (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce
Uses. poultry; calves' vol-aucalves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads; small small vol-
auFor poultry; Uses. For vent; vent; tartlets. tartlets. Printanier fine strips
turnips in in dice dice or or fine strips Printanier or turnips carrots or Cut
carrots - Cut about (l inch) long. vegetables and long. Blanch and cook cook 2l cm.
Blanch the the vegetables about 2~ cm. (1 them peas add peas are almost almost
cooked, cooked, add them in in clear When they they are clear stock. stock. When
and drained. have been been boiled and and weil well drained. and French beans
beans which which have Asparagus added. beans may may also also be be added.
Asparagus tips tips and and young kidney beans Uses. clear soup. soup. Uses. Add
Add to to boiling boiling clear À printaniire New carrots turnips cut cut in in
small small carrots and and turnips A la h printanière - New oval tossed in in
butter; oval lengths, lengths, cooked cooked in in white white stock, stock, and
and tossed butter; peas; peas; asparagus in butter. asparagus tips tips in butter.
Sauce. veal stock. stock. Sauce. Clear Clear veal Uses. poultry. Uses. For For
large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat; meat; poultry. À Aubergines
provengale Aubergines cut in chunks, chunks, stuffed stuffed with with A la la
provençale cut in Tomato (see FONDUE), Tomato fondue FONDUE), sprinkled sprinkled
with with breadbreadfondue (see crumbs potatoes cut French beans in butter; butter;
potatoes cut crumbs and and browned; beans in browned; French to in clarified
butter. look like to look like olives olives and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in
clarified butter. Sauce. and veal stock flavoured with with tomato tomato and
Sauce. Thickened Thickened veal stock flavoured chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon.
Uses. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat.
Quenelles - Little balls about the size of a white bean, Quenelles - Little balls
about the size of a white bean, rounded recipe followed, followed, they they
rounded or fluted. According According to to the the recipe or fluted.
417 417

Régence garnish round R6gence garnish round veal veal sweetbreads sweetbreads

Réjane A(see POT potatoes (see Duchess potatoes POTARdjane -- Nests Nests made made
of of Duchess TOES), leaf spinach in TOES), ftied, filled with with leaf spinach in
fried, hollowed-out hollowed-out and and filled butter; quartered artichokes in
butter; butter; slices slices of of artichokes simmered simmered in butter;
quartered poached poached and and drained drained bone-marrow. bone-marrow. Sauce.
Braising stock. stock. Sauce. Braising Uses. Uses. For For braised braised veal
veal sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Renaissance A variety variety of vegetables,
disposed disposed of spring spring vegetables, Renaissance -- A .. They round
groups._ round the in individual They are are separately separately the dish dish
in individual groups glazed, te. glazed, braised, fried, as braised, tossed tossed
in in butter or fried, as appropria appropriate. butter or ,, Sauce, gravy. roast
or veal gravy. Gravy of of the the roast or clear clear veal Sauce. Gravy Uses.
large cuts Uses. For For large cuts of of meat. meat. Richelieu Richelieu --
Medium-sized Medium-sized stuffed stuffed tomatoes, tomatoes, sprinkled sprinkled
with potatoes with breadcrumbs braised lettuce; lettuce; potatoes browned; braised
breadcrumbs and and browned; cut cut as as for for small slowly in in clarified
clarified butter, butter, small chips chips and and cooked cooked slowly or
potatoes fried or new new potatoes fried in in butter. butter. Sauce. Thickened
veal veal stock or aa rather rather liquid liquid Demi-glàce Demi-glace Sauce.
Thickened stock or sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. For large large cuts
of meat. meat. Uses. For cuts of
GARNISHES GARNISHES
A hi h l'omaine-Individual ronetne - Individual spinach timhales timbales with with
anchovies; anchovies ; À individual Anna garnish (see (see POTATOES) Anna potatoes
for garnish POTATOES) individuaf turned out out of of small moulds. turned Sauce.
Thin Thin tomato tomato sauce sauce or or thickened thickened veal veal stock stock
Sauce. flavoured with wilh tomato. tornato. flavoured Uses. For For large large
cuts of meat. meat. cuts of Uses. (q.v.), Rornanov -' Cucumber Cucumber stuffed
stuffed with with duxelles duxelles (q.v.), Romanov sprinkld wi with potatoes and
browned; browned; Duchess Duchess potatoes sprink:led tb breadcrumbs and (see
POTATOES) POTATOES) filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon of of celeriac
celeriac and and mushmushrooms in (see SAUCE), rn a a Velouté Veloutd sauce sauce
(see SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with with rooms gratd horseradish. horseradish.
grated (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) fiavoured
flavoured with with Sauce~ Madeira. Madeira. Uses. Garnish Garrish for for large
large and and small small cuts cuts of of meaL meat. Uses. Rmsini Thick slices gras
sau slices of trufle; slices of truffle; slices ofjoie of/ole gras saut6ed in téed
in Rossini - Thick butter. Sauce. Stock Stock of the the main dish blended blended
with main dish with Madeira Madeira and and Sauce. veal stock. stock. thickened
veal Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat. Uses. garnish for Loyale This
garnish prepared either for soup soup is is prepared either from from RoyàIe - This
a flavoured consommé consomm6 (q.v.) thickened thickened with eggs, eggs, or or
from from a a a puree of sorne some kind,also kind, also thickened with with egg.
egg. purée Fill small srnall dariole furiole mou moulds with thechosen the chosen
ingredients ingredients and and Fil! Ids with (q.v.) until firm. bain-mnrie (q.v.)
a bain-marie firm. When completely cold, cook in a completely cold, out of the the
mou moulds and dice neatly or or cut cut into into lozenges, lozenges, dice neatly
turn out Ids and squarcs, rounds, stars, stars, Jeaves, etc. |eaves, etc. as
garnishes for Uses. Royales are used as for c1ear clear soups. soups. given below
(2fi pints, pints, 3i The measures given below are are for for lt l| litres litres
(2~ Tbe 3f pints) c1ear clear soup. piots) porNTEs D'ASPERGESRoyah of asparagus
tips. D'AspERcEs tips. ROYALE RoYALE DE DE POINTES (3 oz.) g. (3 Boil 75 g. oz.)
asparagus tips tips in in salt salt water and add 5 Boil and add 5 or or (2
tablespinaoh. Drain, add add 1 lj table6 leaves young spinaeh. t tablespoons (2 (se
SAUCE) (3 spoons) Béchamel Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE) and spoons) and 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 tablespoons) consommé, consomm6, and and rub rub through a sieve.
Blend in a sieve. Blend in as for for other other royales. 4 egg yolks and and cook
as carrots, caUed RoyALE DE Royale of carrots; called à i la Crécy. Cr6cy. ROYALE
DE CAROTTES, cARorrEs, ntre A LA I-A CRÉCY DITE cRfcy -- Cook Cook 1 I sliced
sliced carrot, carrot, seasoned seasoned with salt with salt and a a little little
sugar, sugar, in in butter. and butter. Add Add 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons Béchamel
Bdchamel (see SAUCE), 2 (3 tablespoons) sauce 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) cream,
sauce (see cream, sieve. Blend in 4 4 egg yolks. Pour into a and sieve. a buttered
mould and cook tn in a a bain-marie in a a moderate oyen firm. oven until until
firm. RoyALE DE or CÉLERI Royale of celery. ROYALE Royrle c6rnnr in a in butter in
Cook in a - Cook (3 oz., g. (3 double saucepan 75 g. oz., l' finely shredded double
sauce pan 75 cup) finely shredded stick I cup) (ser', SAUCE) I tablespoon Bichamel
celery. Add J Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) and 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons)
consommé, consomm6, and and blend blend in in 4 4 egg yolks. puRfE DE purée. ROYALE
RoyALE DE Royale of d cbicken chicken pur6e. ns PURÉE DE VOLAILLE VoLATLLE (2 oz.)
g. (2 Pound to to a fine pulp pulp 50 50 g. Pound a fine oz.) cooked cooked white
white meat meat of of poultry. Add 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) Bichamel
Béchamel sauce (3 tablespoons) cream, (see SAUCE) and 2 tablespoons (3 cream, and
and egg yolks. Poach as for other royales. strain. Blend in 4 egg punm DE GIBIER
Royale of of game game Flree. purée. RoyALE ROYALE DE op PURÉE Royale - Pound
ground game game (hare or to a fine fine pulp 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.) fiesh of
ground to oz;S flesh roebuck) (partridge or pheasant). roebuck) or of of winged
game (partridge pheasant). Add ~ Add 1 l+ tablespoons (2 tablespoons) tablespoons)
Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), tablespoons SAUCE), 3 3 tablespoons
tablespoons (scant (scant I i consommé, and strain. Blend Blend in in 1 I consomm6,
"up) and 2 yolks. yolks. whole egg and a mould and and poach Iike like Pour into a
other other royales. ROYALE oRDTNATRE ORDINAIRE - Put a a large pinch pincb of
Plain royale. RoyALE chervil into l! dl. (| pint, 3 ~ cup) boiling consomm6
consommé and leave chervil 10 minutes. ".,p) 1 whole whole egg and it to infuse for
l0 Beat together I and 2 2 yolks. Blend Blend the eggs slowly slowly into the
stock. Strain, skim, and pour into into a buttered mould. Cook as for other
royales. pors Royale of fre$ fresb pea pea plr6e. purée. RoyALE ROYALE os DE pUREE
PURÉE DE DE POIS Royale Blend 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fresh pea
pur6e purée FRAIS - Blend FRAIs with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (* (~cup)
consommé. Season Season with salt and a with cup) consomm6. 1 whole egg and 2
yolks. yolks. Pour into a little sugar. Blend in I little a mould and poach poach
like other royales. mould

ptrRfn DE prr6e. ROY Royale of of tomato tomato purée. RoyALE op PURÉE DETOMA
ToMATES Royale ALE DE TES - (6 tablespoons, scant Dilute 1 I dl. dl. (6 scant tI
cup) cup) concentrated concentrated tomato Dilute tomato puree with with 4 4
tablespoons tablespoons ({ cup) consommé. Season with purée consomm6.Season salt
withsalt yolksand poach as and sugar, sugar, thicken thicken with with 4 egg egg
yolks and poach as for for other other and
royales.

(±

Risotto as Sagan -- Risotto as aa foundation, foundation, adding adding mushrooms

mushrooms pur6e of stuffed with with purée of brain brain mixed mixed with with aa
salpicon of of truffles. truffes. Sauce. Stock Stock of of the the main main dish
dish blended Sauce. blended with Madeira and thickened veal veal stock. stock.
thickened (U.S. veal Uses. For For escalopes escalopes ofveal of veal (U.S. Uses.
veal sweetveal cutlets); cutlets);veal sweetbreads; suprAfues of breads; of
chicken. chicken. pur6e of Saint-Germain 1 I -- Thick green peas, peas, served
Thick purée of green served separately. separately. Clear veal veal stock. stock.
Sauce. Clear Sauce. Uses.Large small cuts Uses. Large and and small cuts of of
meat. meat. Saint-Germain Saint-Germain fi tr -- Artichoke Artichoke hearts hearts
simmered simmered in in butter butter pur6e of green peas. peas. This and garnished
with garnish is and with purée of green This garnish sometimes referred referred to
SOlmetmles to as as Clamart. Clamart. Sauce and and uses. uses. As As above. Sauce
above. gras; cocks' Saint-Saëns Saint-Sa6ns -- Fritters Fritters of of truffies
trufresand and foie cocks' foie gras; kidneys; asparagus tips. kidneys; tips.
(ser', SAUCE) Sauce. Sauce. Suprdme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured
with with (see ESSENCE). Truffie Truffie essence essence (see ESSENCE). poultry.
Uses. Uses. For For suprêmes suprAmes of of poultry. À A la sarde -- Cork-shaped h
sarde Cork-shaped croquettes croquettes of of rice rice cooked cooked with with
cheese; cheese; mushrooms mushrooms sautéed saut6ed in in butter; French beans
butter; French in beans in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Thin Thin tomato tomato
sauce sauce or or veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato.
tomato. Uses. Uses. For For large cuts cuts of of meat. meat. À A la la sarrasine
sarrasine -- Small Small buckwheat buckwheat cakes, cakes, browned browned in in
butter; little (q.v.) oftomatoes rice tartlets, little rice tartlets, filled filled
withfondue with/ondue (q.v.) of tomatoes with peppers added. with sweet sweet
peppers added. Place Place 1 I or or 2 2 fried fried onion onion rings rings on on
each each tartlet. tartlet. Sauce. Thin Demi-glace (see SAUCE). Sauce.Thin Demi-
glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For large large cuts cuts of of meat.
Sauerkraut. Sau erkraut. CHOUCROUTEcHoucRourE - Wash Wash and dr ain the the
sauerkraut; s aue r k r au t ; and drain squeeze squeeze it it dry dry and and
simmer simmer in in clear clear soup or or white white stock. stock. Semolina
(Hungarian cookery). cNoccHr DE Semolina gnocchi (Hungarian SEMOULE (3 oz., sEMouLE
-- Work 75 g. (3 tablespoons) butter in a bowl oz., 6 6 tat,les,poons) with a
process add 1 spatula. During this (2t oz., g. (2i a spatula. this process I egg,
egg, 65 65 g. oz., scant scant t cup) semolina semolina and 2 teaspoons fiour.
flour. Season Season with and 2 with salt salt I cup) and pinch of grated nutmeg.
and a of grated nutmeg. Work a pinch vigorously with Work vigorously with the the
spatula spatula until the mixture is is slightly slightly frothy. frothy. Leave
Leave to to stand for stand for 1 I hour. Make Make large oval balls shaped with a
put a tablespoon tablespoon and and put pan. Add boiling water them into a buttered
pan. water and and leave leave to to simmer for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Uses.
Uses. For For soup. soup. Serge small quartered cooked cooked artichokes artichokes
simmered simmered - Very small in in butter; coarsely coarsely shredded ham ham
simmered simmered in in Madeira. Ingredients prepared prepared à d la la Serge
Serge are are dipped dipped in a a mixture mixture of of breadcrumbs mixed with
chopped chopped truffles truffies and and mushrooms. Sauce. (see SAUCE) Sauce.
Demi-glace sauce sauce (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured with Truffie essence
essence (see ESSENCE). Uses. .S. veal cutlets); calves' (U.S. Uses. Escalopes of
veal veal (U calves' sweetsweetbreads. Spun (lf pints, pints, generous Spun eggs.
eggs. OEUFS oEUFs FILÉS rnfs -- For generous For 1 I litre litre (l~ quart) beat 1
quart) soup, soup, beat I egg egg and and strain it it through through muslin. Put
Put it it in a pan containing a fine fine strainer held held over a a frying pan
containing boiling boiling consommé. consomm6. Move the strainer backwards and
forwards over over Drain the prepared and the stock. Drain the threads threads of
egg egg thus thus preparee! and add them to the soup. Uses. Uses. For soup. À la
strasburrgeoise A sauerkraut: thin thin rectangles rectangles - Braised sauerkraul;
of salt salt (pickled) pork cooked with the the sauerkraut; sauerkraut; slices
slices of of foie gras gras saut6ed in butter. butter. foie Sauce. Boiled-down pan
juices of Sauce. Boiled-down of the the main main dish. dish.
418 418
GASCONY GASCONY
Uses. For For braised or pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry. poultry. A Àh la srltane
sultane - Canapis Canapés of of chicken chicken forcemeat forcemeat (shaped like
like cutlets) on on which which chicken chicken suprdmes suprêmes are are placed;
placed; very very small sm ail tartlets tartlets filled with pur6e purée of trufres
truffies with with pieces pieces of of blanched pistachio pistachio nut on top;
cocks' combs. combs. SuprAmes Suprêmes prepared prepared d à la sultane sultane are
dipped dipped in in a a mixture mixture of

breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and chopped truffies. truffles. Sauce. Sauce. Suprdme
Suprême sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) very very slightly slightly seasoned
seasoned with with curry curry powder. powder. Uses. For For supr4mes suprêmes of
of chicken. chicken. Tomatoes. Tomatoes. ToMATES TOMA TES - Peel Peel small, small,
very very firm firm tomatoes, tomatoes, remove remove liquid liquid and and pips,
pips, dice dice the the flesh flesh into into squares squares I 1 cm. cm. (t inch)
inch) across across and and add add these these to to boiling boiling consomm6.
consommé. Leave Lea ve G to to simmer simmer for for 7 minutes minutes and and
drain. drain. Uses. Add Add to to soup. soup. TortueTortue- Little Little veal veal
quenelles; quenelles; stoned stoned olives; olives; mt',shrooms; mushrooms; sliced
sliced truffies truffies and and gherkins; gherkins; freshwater freshwater crayfish
crayfish cooked cooked in in a a court-bouillon; court-bouillon; fried egg egg
yolks; yolks; heart-shaped heart-shaped pieces pieces of of fried fried bread;
bread; small small pieces pieces of of tongue tongue and and calves' ca Ives'
brains. brains. Sauce. Sauce. Tortue Tortue sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Uses. Uses. For For veal. veal. A Àh la toscane toscane - Thick Thick diced diced
macaroni macaroni mixed mixed with with a a puree purée of of foie gras; gras;
coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies truffies saut6ed sautéed in in butter.
butter. foie Ingredients Ingredients prepared prepared d à la la toscane toscane
must must be be dipped dipped in in a a mixture mixture of of breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and and grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Sauce. Sauce.
Thickened Thickened veal veaJ stock. stock. Uses. Uses. For For escalopes escalopes
(U.S. (U.S. cutlets) cutlets) of of veal; veal; calves' calves' sweetsweetbreads;
breads; breasts breasts of of chicken. chicken. A À h )a toulousaine, toulousaine,
also a)so called caUed ià la la Toulouse Toulouse - Chicken Chicken quenelles;
quenelles; cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys; kidneys; braised braised lamb
lamb or or calves' calves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads; mushrooms; mushrooms; shredded
shredded truffies. truffies. The The elements elements of of this this garnish
garnish are are arranged arranged in in separate separa te groups groups and and
sometimes sometimes include include chicken chicken livers livers saut6ed sautéed
in in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads;
poultry; poultry; savoury savoury pies; pies; tartsl tarts; vol-au-vent. vol-au-
vent. A Àh la trouvitlaise trouvillaise - Shelled Shelled shrimps; shrimps;
mussels; mussels; mushrooms. mushrooms. Sauce. Sauce. Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce
(see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Uses. Uses. For For fish. fish. Trufres. Truffles.
TRUFFES TRUFFES - This This garnish garnish is is very very occasionally
occasionally added added to to soups. soups. Shred Shred fresh fresh trufles
truffies into into fine fine strips, strips, or or dice dice them them into into
small small squares. squares. Put Put these these in in the the boiling boiling
soup soup at at the the last last minute. minute. The The heat heat of of the the
soup soup is is sufficient sufficient to to cook cook the the truffies. truffies. A
À Ia la tyrolienne tyrolienne - Tomatoes Tomatoes cut cut into into quarters
quarters and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter until until very
very tender; tender; onion onion rings rings fried fried in in oil. oil. Sauce.
Sauce. Reduced Reduced veal veal stock stock with with butter butter added. added.
Uses. Uses. For For grilled grilled cuts cuts of of meat meat or or poultry.
poultry.

A À la Valenciennes Valenciennes - Rice Rice cooked in meat meat stock (or plain
boiled boiled rice) rice) mixed with with a a salpicon salpicon of of sweet
peppers. peppers. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of the the main main dish
diluted diluted with with white white wine wine or or tomato-flavoured tomato-
flavoured thickened thickened veal veaJ stock. stock. Uses. For small cuts cuts of
of meat meat or poultry. poultry. A À ta la Valois Valois - Thinly Thinly sliced
sliced potatoes potatoes and and slices slices of of artichoke artichoke hearts
hearts saut€ed sautéed together together in in butter, butter, served served in the
terrine in in
which which the the meat meat is is cooked. cooked. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices
juices with with white white wine wine added added and and veal veal stock stock
with with butter butter added. added. Uses. For For small small cuts of of meat.
meaL Au Au vert-pr6 vert-pré - Matchstick Matchstick potatoes; potatoes;
watercress. watercress. Sauce. Sauce. Mattre Maître d'h6tel d'hôtel butter (see
BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Uses. For small small cuts cuts of of
meat meat and and poultry, poultry, grilled. grilled. Uses. For Victoria Victoria -
Small Small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed with with pur6e purée of mushmushrooms;
rooms; quartered quartered artichokes artichokes simmered simmered in in butter.
butter. Sauce. Sauce. Meat Meat juices juices of of the the main main dish dish
blendd blended with with Madeira Madeira or or port port and and thickened
thickened veal veal stock. stock. Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of
meat. meaL A À ta la viennoilse viennoise - Whites Whites and and yolks yolks of of
hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, egg. chopped chopped separately; separately; anchovy
anchovy fillets; fillets; stoned stoned olives; olives; rounds rounds of of lemon
lemon with with rind rind and and skin skin removed; removed; capers; capers;
chopped chopped parsley, parsley. All All these these ingredients ingredients are
are aranged arranged round round the the dish dish in in separate separate groups.
groups. Sauce. Sauce. Brown Brown butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound
Compound butters). butters). Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat
meat or or poultry. poultry. This This garnish garnish is is especially especially
suitable suitable for for cutlets cutlets (U.S. (U.S. chops) chops) and and
escalopes escalopes (U.S. (U.S. cutlets) cutlets) of of veal; veal; breasts breasts
of of poultry, poultry, dipped dipped in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and saut6ed
sautéed in in butter. butter. It It can can also also be be served served with with
fillets fillets of of fish, fish, chiefly crueBy brill brill (U.S. (U.S. flounder)
Bounder) and and sole. sole. Vladimir Vladimir - Cucumbers Cucumbers cut cut in in
small small oval oval lengths lengths and and simsimmered mered in in butter;
butter; very very small small vegetable vegetable marrows marrows (courgettes,
(courgettes, zucchinis) zucchinis) coarsely coarsely diced, diced, saut6ed sautéed
in in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Stock Stock of of the the main main dish dish
blended blended with with sour sour cream, cream, seasoned seasoned with with
paprika, paprika, and and with with grated grated horseradish horseradish sprinkled
sprinkled on on top. top. Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat.
meaL

GARUM GARUM - Type Type of of condiment, condiment, much mu ch used used as as a a

spice spice in in ancient ancient Roman Roman cookery. cookery. It It was was
probably probably pickling pickling brine brine
derived derived from from salting salting seawater seawater fish fish - scomber
scomber or or mackerel mackerel in in particular particular - and and squeezing
squeezing them them to to extract extract the the liquid. liquid. The The best best
known, known, extracted extracted from from scomber, scomber, was was called called
garwn garum nigrum.It nigrum. It was was put put in in little little pots, pots, as
as mustard mustard is is nowanowadays, days, and and each each guest guest
flavoured flavoured it it to to his rus own own liking, liking, one one with with
vinegar vinegar (oenogarum), (oenogarum), another another with with water water
(hydrogarum), (hydrogarum), another another with with oil oil (oleogarum).
(oleogarum). The The garum garum piperatum piperatum was, was, as as its its name
name indicates, indicates, strongly strongJy flavoured flavoured with with pepper.
pepper.
Ancient province province which which once once -- Ancient included included the
the Landes, Landes, Basque, Basque, Chalosse, Chalosse, Condomois, Condomois,
ArmagArmagnac, nac, Comminges, Comminges, Couserans, Couserans, Lomagne, Lomagne,
Astarac Astarac and and Bigorre Bigorre districts districts and and part part of of
the the Bordelais Bordelais and and Bazadais Bazadais districts. districts. It It
has has always always been been a a land land of ofhigh high gastronomic
gastronomic repute. repute. The The inhabitants inhabitants have have maintained
maintained the the cult cult of ofgood good eating eating in in the départements
which which have have been been formed formed within within the the the
dipartements boundaries boundaries of of Gascony Gascony - Hautes-Pyr6n6es, Hautes-
Pyrénées, Gers, Gers, Landes, Landes, part part of of the the Basses-Pyr6n6es,
Basses-Pyrénées, Haute Haute Garonne, Garonne, Lot-etLot-etGaronne Garonne and and
Tarn-et-Garonne. Tarn-et-Garonne. Gallimaufry Gallimaufry was was created created
in in this this region. region. This This is is the the dish dish for for which
which Taillevent, Taillevent, master master chef chefof ofKing King Charles Charles
VII, VII, gave gave the the recipe, recipe, and and the the name name of ofwhich,
wruch, no-one no-one quite quite knows knows why, why, has has become become a a
synonym synonym for for a a bad bad stew. stew. this province Culinaryspecialities
specialities-- The The good good things things of ofthis province are are Culinaly
many. They They include include the the hams hams of of the the Landes Landes and
and of of Ossau, Ossau, many. eaten eaten raw rawlike like those those of ofParma,
Parma, or orused used rnfricassis infricassés of ofvarious various

GASCONY. GASCONY. cAscocNE GASCOGNE

Garnish Debillot. Phot. Garnish dàla latvrolienne tyrolienne( (Debi//ot. Phot.

Larousse\ Larousse)

4t9 419
GASTRONOME GASTRONOME

(lmcfctte landoi* 1 i--_ ----'-l - Choudiru,

Bouiffoh of goose

gibleis l\

Tripe,

Ortolans T4ANDES

i
!. "2" !!:l: '{bn.,-:E

,2:oa) t

Il

jDoubcs

,*1lla";n:s:ii.lh__:Lq
€:r--'--^r-tvt{'... -

'Lt-r,1

n dA.nN
Chot

t t + ,' frr-* \-rl.+ i --*t-

.-t.

s' Game t_l_+.t.

Ham

ltA'vTEs

il rfrEe e
hnaicoD." ''...

S PA PA 1 N I N S

t f\_ -'..

p#'ei**.l
/-.-".,,,":it1';
Gastronomic ma GaSlfooomic p of map of Gascony

,9.:4,/'1" T*r\

Goat's mllk

goose livers kinds; goose livers and and duck kinds; duck livers; buntings;
preserves of goose and and of of pork; savoury goose pork; the sa voury oysters of
Cap Breton; and the potted and pdtds and and, truffled trffiedfoie the potted meats
and foie gras of the Gers, the Landes and and the ..... Lot-et-Garonne.
"'L-....,L-'-'al Nor must we forget Madarin wine and the rich and heady Nor heady
Armagnac.
GASTRONOME GASTRONOME back to - Slightly pedantic term, dating back the beginning
of the nineteenth century, signifying '" onllv,,.,o experts in gastronomy. Genuine
connoisseurs connoisseurs in matters of good food are satisfied with the the name
gourmand which, though normnormally ally translated as'greedy', as 'greedy', has no
derogatory overtones in
French. French. The The true gastronome, while while esteeming esteeming the most
most refined products products of the culinary arts, arts, enjoys them in
moderation, moderation, and, and, for for his his normal normal fare, seeks seeks
out out the simplest dishes. While he not himself himself a practitioner
practitioner of of the culinary art, he knows he is not enough enough of of its
methods to to be be able able to to pass pass judgment judgment on a a dish and
which it and to to recognise recognise the ingredients ingredients of ofwhich it is
is composed. composed.

GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC ASSOCIATIONS. ASSOCIATIONS. cAsrRoNoMreuEs GASTRONOMIQUES

(lcnofrvrns, AssocrATroNs, Académie ASSOCIATIONS, cRor;pnurNrs) GROUPEMENTS) - The
Acadimie des Gostronomes was founded by Curnonsky Curnonsky in in 1927. 1927. lt It
Gastronomes was admits admits forty fort y members, members, consisting consisting
of of gourmets, gourmets, lovers lovers of of goodfood, good food, culinarywriters,
culinary writers, and and amphitryons. Each Each occupies occupies the the seat
seat of of a a former great gourmet and upon upon election election is is called
upon to to deliver deliver an address in honour honour of of his his preprecalled
upon
decessor. decessor. But But the the Acadimie Académie des des Gastronomes
Gastronomes was was not not the the first first of of its its kind. kind. Without
Without going so so far far back back as as the the ancient ancient confriries,the
confréries, the earliest earliest of of the the modern associations associations is
is the the Chb Club des des cent cent

founded founded n in l9l2 1912 by by the the gourmand-journalist Louis Louis

Forest. Forest. The The Club Club des des cent cent is is a a very very active
active body with with its its own own conficonfidential dential (and (and very very
severe) severe) personal personal guide. guide. It It awards awards diplomas,
diplomas, but but rarely. rarely. It It awards awards a a substantial substantial
gastronomic gastronomic literary literary prize prize annually. annually.

The Académie des psychologues &t du go,frt gout is IS called The Acadimie des
psychologues called the 'Jockey club of eating' and was was founded in in 1922.It
1922. It counts members. many ambassadors ambassadors among its members. Académie
Rabelais Rabelais groups together writers, writers, painters, The Acadimie and
designers interestod interested in food. The Association amicale amicale des des
amateurs amateurs d'authentiques d'authentiques The Association the most most rigid
and and most most exandouillettes (A.A.A.A.A.) is the clusive (five members)
members) of the gastronomic associations. associations. Its members believe believe
in simple, substantial and wholesome wholesome fare. members designed by by Henry
Monier, is awarded to A rare diploma, designed the mo'st mos! outstanding
amphytryons amphytryons of of the A.A.A.A.A. A.A.A.A.A. The The Association
Association des gastronomes gastronomes amateurs amateurs de de poisson poisson
(1937) (1937) is the fish lovers' association. association. The Association des
gastronomes gastronomes rigionalistes régionalistes (1924) is the The of
gastronomes gastronomes interested in regional regional cookery. cookery.
association of Table was founded by by the engraver and painter painter The Belle
Table itself as as much with with the the d6cor décor of Georges Villa. It concerns
itself the table as with with the food food servod served thereon. thereon. the
Club de la casserole, founded founded by by Ren6 René Lasserre, Lasserre, is is the
the The Club gourmet club club of fashionable fashionable Paris. Paris. Its Its
insignia insignia is is a a tiny tiny saucepan key key ring. ring. Its formal
formaI galas, which which ,include fashion saucepan include fashion haute couture,
coffires, furs and jewels, Lttract shows of haute many of the the leading
personalities of stage and screen. The many grand grand finale finale ofa of a
typical gala gala is is the the release release of of doves. doves. At the the Club
Club des des gourmettes, gourmettes, the the conversation conversation is is of
ofcooking, cooking, At and the the members members really really know know what
what they they are are talking talking about. about. and The The Club Club Prosper-
Montagni Prosper-Montagné is is where where restaurateurs, restaurateurs, p
pâtissières, charcutiers, and similar similar foregather. foregather. d t is siir e
s, c har cut ie r s, and The The Club Club des des purs purs cent cent is is a a
splinter spI inter group group of of the the Club Club des des numbers about about
flfty fifty gourmets. gOlurrnet.s. cent and numbers cent The Commanderie
Commanderie des des cordons-bleus, in in Dijon, Dijon, awards awards The diplomas
to to the the best best restaurateurs. restaurateurs. diplomas The Compagnie
Compagnie des des gentilshommes gentilshommes de de gueule gueule (1928) (1928) The
organises monthly monthly informal informaI dinners dinners presided presided over
over by by a a organises cultured and and refined reflned speaker. speaker.
cultured
420 420
GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC CUSTOMS CUSTOMS
The Confririe Confrérie de de la la pochouse pochouse extol extol this this eminent
eminent regional regional The dish of of Verdun-sur-le-Doubs. Verdun-sur-le-Doubs.
dish Échansonnes de de France France is is an an association association of of
female female The iichansonnes gourmands reluctant reJuctant to to leave Jeave all
ail there there is is to to say say about about wine wine to gourmands men alone.
aJone. men The Fin Fin Palais Palais (1927) (1927) is Îs an an association
association of of gourmand gourmand The lawyers. lawyers. The Galants Galants de de
la la verte verte marennes marennes wed wed their their oysters oysters to the the
The whole range range of of white white wines wines of of the the territory.
territory. whole The Sociiti Société de gastronomie gastronomie mddicale médicale
groups together together the The gourmets. medical gourmets. medical The Taste-
Moungettes of Comminges extol extol the the haricot The beans of the the region,
indispensable indispensa ble ingredient of of the the casbeans soulet, the the
Luchon pistache pistache and several other dishes. soulet,
Frogs. Frogs. July. July. Freshwater Freshwater fish: fish: eel, eel, pike, pike,
gudgeon, gudgeon, tencho tench, trout, trout, salmon (rare). (rare), gurnet, Sea
Sea fish: shad, bass, bass, cod, cod, sea sea bream, bream, smelt smelt (rare),
gurnet, salmon mackerel, mackerel, plaice, plaice, ray, ray, sardines, sardines,
sole sole (rare), (rare), tuna, tuna, salmon trout, trou t, turbot. Frogs.
grayling, carp, grayling, August. Freshwater Freshwater fish: fish: eel, eel,
bream, bream, pike, pike, carp, perch, tench, river trout. river trout. gurnet Sea
fish: fish: bass, brill brill (rare), (rare), cod, cod, sea sea bream, bream,
smelt, smelt, gurnet (rare), salmon salmon sole (rare), (rare), (rare), mackerel,
plaice, plaice, ray, ray, sardines, sardines, sole trout. trout, turbot. c&tP,
Freshwater fish: September. Freshwater fish: eel, eel, bream, bream, pike, pike,
carp, grayling, perch, tench, river trout. tench, river trout. (rare), brill smelt,
sea bream, bream, smelt, cod, sea brill (rare), cod, Sea fish: bass bass (rare),
(rare), turbot turbot trout (rare), (rare), plaice, salmon trout ray, sole, salmon
gurnet (rare), plaice, ray, (rare). (rare). carp, bream, pike, carp, barbel, bream,
fish: eel, eel, barbel, October. Freshwater fish: October. river trout trout
(rare). perctr, tench, tench, river gudgeon, grayling, perch, (rare), smelt,
(rare), sea smelt, sea bream bream (rare), brill (rare), Sea fish: bass (rare),
brill sole, salmon salmon plaice, ray, ray, sole, (rare), herring, cod, plaice,
gurnet (rare), dab, cod, herring, dab, gurnet (rare). trout (rare), turbot (rare).
pike, carp, carp' bream, pike, eel, barbel, bream, November. Freshwater fish: eel,
perch, tench. gudgeon, grayling, perch, gurnet, smelt, gurnet, brill, gilthead
(rare), smelt, Sea fish: bass (rare), brill, trout salmon trout cod, plaice, ray,
sole, salmon whiting, cod, dab, whiting, herring, dab, herring, (rare), turbot
(rare). pike, carp, carp, bream, pike, barbel, bream, fish: eel, eel, barbel,
Freshwater fish: December. Freshwater gudgeon, grayling, perch, tench. (rare),
smelt. sturgeon, smelt, sturgeon, sea bream bream (rare), brill, sea Sea fish: bass
(rare), brill, plaice, ray, ray' sole, sole, mullet, plaice, cod, mullet, whiting,
cod, gurnet, herring, dab, whiting, turbot. salmon trout (rare), turbot. March.
February, March. January, February, cRusrAcfs -- January, Crustaceans. CRUSTACÉS
Lobster, crayfish. shrimps, prawns, shrimps, crab, prawns, crayfish, crab, Lobster,
crayfish, April and May. Lobster, freshwater crayfish. freshwater prawns, shrimps,
shrimps, freshwater Crab, prawns, July, August. Crab, June, July, June, crayfish.
crayfish. prawns, shrimps, shrimps, crab, prawns, crayfish, crab, Lobster,
crayfish, September. September. Lobster, crayfish. freshwater crayfish. freshwater
crayfreshwater crayLobster, freshwater December. Lobster, November, December.
October, November, October, fish. fish. April, March, April, January, February,
March, MoLLUsQuEsMolluscs. MOLLUSQUES - January, MoUuscs. is to to say say the the
December (that is November, December October, November, September, September,
October, mussels. Oysters, mussels. name). Oysters, 'r' in in their their name). an
'r' months with an months with
cAsrRoNoMIQLrEs usAcES GASTRONOMIQUESCUSTOMS. USAGES GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC
CUSTOMS. period and and the the to the the period according to vary according
customs vary Gastronomic Gastronomic customs
CALENDAR. GASTRONOMIC CALENDAR.
MIQUE MIeLJE

cALENDRIER CALENDRIER GAsrRoNoGASTRONO-

period of the Below, month by month, is the best period year to to eat ea t the
following following in France: year VIANDES DE BoucHERre BOUCHERiE - All Ali the
year round. round. Beef, Beer, Meat. vIANDEs mu Hon, veal. mutton, Ali the the year
round round except July, August. Pork. AII Al! the year year round except except
July, July, August and September. All Lamb. Lamb. goose, pigeon, Poultry.
voLAILLEsVOLAILLEs-January. Duck, turkey, goose, pigeon. January. Duck, Poultry.
guinea fowl, chicken. guinea chicken. poulard. fowl, poulard. turkey, pigeon,
guinea fowl, February. Duck, turkey, March. Duck, pigeon, poulard. poulard.
poulard, chicken. April. Duck, pigeon, poulard, May, June. Duck, goose, pigeon,
pigeon, poulard, chicken. May,June. Duck, turkey, goose, pigeon, guinea goose,
pigeon, July Duck, turkey, turkey, goose, to December. December. Duck, July to
fowl, poulard, poulard, chicken. Game. t, venison, venison, quail, rabbit, Hutch
rabbi January. Hutch cIBIER Game. GIBiER - January. grouse, woodcock, curlew,
grouse, wild duck, duck, curlew, snipe, capercaillie, wild woodcock, snipe, ployer,
plover, teal. February, snipe, caperHutch rabbit, woodcock, snipe, March. Hutch
February, March. caillie, wild duck, grouse, plover, teal. curlew, grouse, duck,
curlew, curlew, April. wild duck, duck, curlew, snipe, capercaillie, wiJd April.
Woodcock, Woodcock, snipe, grouse, plover, teal. May Capercaillie, grouse, plover,
teal. May to to August. August. Capercaillie, September venison, rabbit, venison,
hutch rabbit, Hare, hutch to December. December. Hare, September to wild partridge,
capercaillie, wild quail, pheasant, pheasant, woodcock, woodcock, capercaillie,
partridge, quail, duck, curlew, grouse, plover, teal. curlew, grouse, polssoNs --
January. Fisb. barbel, fish: eel, eel, barbel, January. Freshwater fish: Fish.
POISSONS bream, tench. salmon, tench. bream, carp, perch, salmon, (rare), smelt,
Sea smelt, (rare), brill, plaice, sea sea bream bream (rare), brill, plaice, fish:
bar (rare), Sea fish: (rare), whiting, sturgeon, whiting, mackerel (rare), gurnet,
herring, herring, dab, dab, mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, (rare), turbot. cod, turbot.
trout (rare), salmon trout sole, salmon ray, sardines, sardines, sole, cod, mullet,
mullet, ray, perch, salmon. salmon' gudgeon, perch, fish: eel, eel, gudgeon,
Freshwater fish: February. Freshwater (rare), smelt, smelt, (rare), brill, sea
bream bream (rare), brill, plaice, sea Sea fish: bar (rare), sturgeon, (rare),
whiting, cod, whiting, cod, mackerel (rare), gurnet, herring, herring, dab,
mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, mullet. (rare), turbot. turbot. trout (rare), salmon
trout sole, salmon ray, sardines, sardines, sole, mullet, ray, March. gudgeon,
salmon. salmon. fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, March. Freshwater Freshwater fish: Sea
smelt, (rare), briJl, plaice, sea sea bream, bream, smelt, brill, plaice, fish:
shad shad (rare), Sea fish: (rare), whiting, ~""b~~'~' cod, whiting, cod, mackerel
(rare), gurnet, herring, dab, dab, mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, (rare), turbot.
(rare), salmon turbot. trout (rare), salmon trout mullet, ray, sardines, sardines,
sole (rare), April. river trout. trout' gudgeon, salmon, salmon, river fish: eel,
eel, gudgeon, April.Freshwater fish: (rare), Sea smelt (rare), plaice, sea bream,
smeJt sea bream, bass, brill, brill, plaice, fish: shad, shad, bass, Sea fish:
sturgeon, ray, mullet, ray, cod, muUet, whiting, cod, gurnet, dab, mackerel,
whiting, dab, mackerel, sturgeon, gurnet, sardines, turbot. salmon trout, trout,
turbot. sole (rare), salmon sardines, sole : eel, river trout. trout. salmon, river
eel, gudgeon, salmon, May.Freshwater fish: Sea . shad, (rare), gurnet, smelt
(rare), sea bream, smelt cod, sea bass,cod, shad, bass, Sea fish: dab, sole (rare),
ray, sardines, sardines, sole mullet, ray, dab, mackerel, mackerel, whiting,
mullet, tuna, trout, turbot. salmon trout, tuna. salmon June. (rare), tench, tench,
gudgeon, salmon salmon(rare), fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, Freshwater fish: June.
Freshwater river river trout. trout. Sea (rare), gurnet, smelt (rare), bream, smelt
cod, sea sea bream, bass,cod, Sea fish: fish: shad, shad, bass, mackerel, tuna,
sole (rare), tuna, ray, sardines, sardines, sole mackerel, mullet, mullet, plaice,
ray, salmon, salmon, trout, trout, turbot.

country. country. the only the person admits as orthodox orthodox only admits as
The The narrow-minded narrow-minded person and is accustomed, accustomed, and he is
to which which he seasonings to methods methods and and seasonings of the theart
art of of conception of different conception who have have aadifferent considers
those who considers those quite barbarous. barbarous. eating eating quite salad.
quite usual sugar to to aasalad. to add addsugar places it usual to it is isquite
In In sorne some places authorities, French authorities, certainFrench exclaim
certain Heresy! Abomination! exclaim Heresy! Abomination! toadd add the ordinary
ordinary to out of of the it nothing nothing out who think it nevertheless think
who nevertheless (lamb's lettuce lettuce or or ofmâche mdche (lamb's toaasaI salad
slices ad of beetroot to slices of ofsweet sweet beetroot cookedfruit fruit sweet
cooked in England, sweet and in corn In Germany salad). In Germany and corn salad).
denounce same cri critics meat, and and thesame is tics denounce the meat,
servedwith with the is often often served garnish of permitaagarnish yet they of
would permit this they would taste; yet depraved taste; this depraved fruit mu much
(which is offruit butaa pur6eof nothing but chestnut ch isnothing chestnut puree
(which orseasonseasonsweeter somecooked cooked apples or cranberries),or sweeter
than sorne orregaling regaling venison with redcurrant jelly,or haunch of ofvenison
ing aa haunch racines or auxracines or or caillesaux I'orangeor thf~m~~e]1,es
canetonàdl'orange with caneton themselves with fruits. garnished with with sweet
sweetfruits. other dishes garnished savourydishes other savoury not the thesame
sameeveryevery' arenot gastronomic usages usagesare In Inany any case
casegastronomic provincefound found each province ofeach description of where and
the thedescription inFrance, France,and where in thisc1early. clearly. shows this
ordershows in inalphabetical alphabetical order in this thisdictionary dictionary
in
421 421
GATEAU GÂTEAU
Not only preparations different only are are the the culinary culinarypreparations
different but butthe theway way Not the food food is isserved served and and the
the arrangement arrangement of ofthe the meals meals vary. vary. the Thus in in
Flanders Flandersit it is the established is the established custom customto
toserve serve soup soupat at Thus the beginning beginning of principal meal of the
the principal mealof of the the day. day. In In other other the regions the the
habit habit of of drinking drinking aa trou trou de demilieu milieuor, or, in in
NorNorregions mandy, a a trou persisted. trou Normande, Normande, has has
persisted. mandy, The trou trou de de milieu miliat consists consists of ofserving,
serving, in inthe the middle middle of of the the The generally before meal,
generally before the the service service of glasses of the theroast, roast, small
small glasses meal, of spirituous spirituous liqueurs liqueurs of of various
various kinds; kinds; Cognac, Cognac,Armagnac, Armagnac, of quetsche, Calvados,
marc, quetsche, Calvados, kirsch, kirsch, etc. etc. In In the the south-west south-
west of of marc, France, where where this this custom custom used used to to be be
traditional, traditional, the young the young France, daughter of of the the house
house offered guests these offered the theguests placed these liqueurs liqueurs
placed daughter great sil on a a great silver tray. on ver tray. practice, although
In modem modern practice, although the the custom custom of of the the trou trou de
de In persists in miliat still still persists parts, the some parts, in sorne the
sorbet, still made sorbet, still made with with aa milieu liqueur or base of of
liqueur or liqueur liqueur wine, wine, has has for for the part taken the most most
part taken base place. its place. its
SCC CAKE. GATEAU -- See CAKE. GÂTEAU

finelysliced slicedshallot, shallot,chopped chopped chervil cherviland andaacup

cupof oficed icedwater. finely water. Leaveto tosoak soakfor for30 30minutes.
minutes.Ten Tenminutes minutesbefore Leave beforeserving, serving, add thinly
thinlysliced slicedcucumber, cucumber, slices slicesof ofbread, bread,more add
morewater, water,ifif necessary,and andcubes cubesof ofice. ice.Serve Servevery
necessary, verycold. cold.

GEANS CHERRIES. CHERRIES. GUIGNES curcNEs- - Species Speciesof ofred, red,black,

GEANS black,or or white cherry. cherry.They arefirm firmand Theyare andfairly
fairlysweet. white sweet. Geansare mainly used aremainly usedin inFrance Franceto
tomake makeaaliqueur liqueur called Geans called Guignolet, which which is
specialityof isaaspeciality ofthe thetown townof Guignolet, ofAngers. Angers.
GEBIE Smallshellfish, shellfish, whitish whitishin GE BlE -- Small our, found incol
colour, foundin inFrench French coastal waters. waters. It It can can be becooked
cooked like coastal likeshrimps, shrimps, and andis isused used mainlyas asbait
baitfor for large largefish. mainly fish.

given in GAUDES -- The The na name in Franche-Comté, Franche-Comt6, Burgundy,

Burgundy, GAUDES me given and other other districts districts to to a a kind kind
of porridge or of maize maizr flour flour porridge or and pudding somewhat somewhat
similar polenta, or similar to to the the Italian Italian polenta, or to to pudding
hasty-pudding. hast y-pudding. gaudes. GAUDES Franche-Cont6 gaudes. cAUDES DE DE
FRANCHE-COMTÉ FRANcHE-corrlrE -- Pour Pour Franche-Comté (3 quarts, into a saucepan
containing a saucepan quarts, 7i pints) containing Ji 3f litres litres (3 7} pints)
into (18 oz., g. (18 salted boiling boiling water, water, 500 500 g. oz., 3 3 cups)
cups) maize maize flour flour which which salted has been mixed in in cold been
mixed cold water water to to a a smooth smooth consistency. Mix consistency. Mix
has pudding, stirring well. Cook this pudding. Cook this stirring constantly
constantly with with a large a large weIl. wooden spoon, spoon, until g. (4 (4 oz.,
until it it is thick. Add Add 100 is thick. 100 g. oz., ~ cup) wooden i cup)
butter, Serve Serve hot. hot. butter. this pudding, after after it is cooked,
poured into it is cooked, is is poured into Sometimes this where it it is is left
left to to cool. cool. It It is is th then cut into into slices slices en cut small
bowls where which are heated in in butter and and sprinkled sprinkled with with
fine fine sugar. sugar. gaudes may The gaudes may also also be be served servod
cold, cold, in in which which case case the the The pourod into mou is poured
gaudes moulds. When the the gaudes maize flour mixture is Ids. When cooled, they
they are are turned turned out out of of the the moulds and eaten and eaten have
cooled, with sugar. (A LA) GAULOISE (À garnish consisting of tA) a garnish GAUWISE
of - Name used for a combs and and kidneys which which is is served served with
cocks' combs with cJear clear soup soup (see SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTH$. (see
SOUPS It is used, too, for a a garnish served with It used, too, with large large
and small and small vol-au-vent cocks' kidneys as vo/-au-vent or pies, pies, having
cocks' as its chief ingretongue and truffies added. dient, with pickled pickled ton
gue and added. This filling filling is blended (see SAUCE) Suprdme sauce sauce (see
blended in in Suprême SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. The
name is used for for little cakes is used cakes made made of Genoa cake nrixture
mixture (see CAKE, Genoa cake) cake) cooked cookd. in special moulds (moules
(mou/es d à diplomates), dipromates), spread jam and spread with apricot jam
grilled and grilled chopped almonds.

GELATINE. GÉLATINE cfrernrE - - Amorphous, GELATINE. Amorphous,colourless

colourless solid, solid, without smell, smell, which which swells without swells in
inwater. water.When Whenmixed mixedin inhot hot water, it jellywhen it forms forms
aaviscous viscous substance water, substance which which turns turnsto tojelly when
provided that the mixture mixture is iscold, cold, provided the that it ithas has
not not been beenallowed allowed to to boil for for too too long. long. boil
produced by Gelatineis is produced Gelatine by the the action action of of heat
heat upon uponaasubsubstance contained contained in stance inbones, bones,cartilage
cartilage and and tendons. tendons. It Itis isused used in in jellies. preparation
of the preparation the of jellies. gelatine. GRÉNÉTlNE Leaf gelatine. Leaf A pure
cnfNfrrxn --A pureand and transparent transparent form form of of gelatine used
pharmacy and gelatine used in in pharmacy and cookery. cookery.
GELOSE. GÉLOSE GELOSE. cfir.osr -- Synonym Synonym of ofagar-agar. agar-agar. A A
viscous viscous subsubstance extracted extracted from from certain stance uch used
certain marine marinealgae. algae. M Much used in in Japan in preparation of
jellies. in the the preparation Japan of fruit fruit and and other other jellies.
GENDARME GEIYDARME -- French popular name French popular pickled herring. name for
for pickled herring. This name This name is given to is also also given to a type
of a type of sausage, sausage,dry dry and and very very hard, which hard, which is
is made made in in Switzerland Switzerland and and bears bears sorne some slight
slieht resemblance resemblance to to a a herring herring in in appearance.
appearance. GENEVOISE GENEVOISE SAUCE SAUCT -- Sauce, Sauce, originally
originallycalled called Génoise, Gdnoise, served served only only with with fish.
fish. It It js (See is flavoured flavoured with with red red wine. wine. (See
SAUCE.) SAUCE.) GENISTA a number GENISTA (Broom). cBwEr- Botanical Botanical name
name for fora number of of @room). GENÊTplants of of the the broom family. They
broom family. They have have butterfly-like butterfly-like flowers. flowers. Broom
Broom buds buds are are sometimes pickled in sometimes pickled vinegar and in
vinegar as and used used as a a substitute substitute for for capers. capers.
GENOESE. GENOESE. GÉNOISE c6Norsr -- Génoise Ginoise was was the the name name of
of a sauce a sauce served served only only with with fish fish cooked cooked in in
a (salmon and a court-bouillon court-bouillon (salmon and salmon salmon trout trout
in particular). Nowadays, in particular). Nowadays, this this sauce sauce is is
caUed called Genevoise. Geneyoise. In In confectionery, cakes cakes made from a
made from a Genoese Genoese mixture mixture are are caUed called Genoese cakes.
cakes. pArE À Genoese Genoese cake I. PÂTÉ A GÉNOISE cake J. cENorsE --
Ingredients. ( 1 8 oz., g. (18 ftg," e dient s. 500 500 g. oz., 2i cups) sieved 2f
cups) fine sugar, (lS oz., g. (18 sugar, 500 500 g. oz., 4~ g. sieved flour, flour,
500 500 g. $cups) (18 oz., 2i 2ol cups) butter, butter, 16 16 eggs, eggs, a a pinch
of vanilla bean. of salt, I vanilla salt, 1 bean.
GAYETTES (Provençal cookery) cookery)Type of offlat GA YETfES (Provemgal flat
sausage sausage made - Type ofpork of pork liver liver and fresh bacon bacon
encased encased in pork pork caul and cooked in in the oven. oyen. They are
generally served cold, as (See as an an hors-d'uuvre. hors-d'œuvre. (See PORK,
PORK, Pork Pork liver /iver gayettes.) gayettes.)
GAZELLE - Antelope Antelope found in northern northem and western western Asia
GAZELLE in central central Africa. Africa. and in gazelle is The meat meat of of
the the gazelle is very good to eat. It should first The be left in a a mild mild
marinade. marinade. All Ali the recipes recipes appropriate to be roebuck (q.v.)
and venison (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable for gazelle. roebuck GAZPACHO (Spanish
(Spanish cookery). cookery). cAspAcHo GASPACHO GAZPACHO
- Soup-salad Soup-salad fresh cucumber, cucumber, tomatoes, tomatoes, sweet sweet
peppers, peppers, and made of fresh made slices of of bread bread moistened
moistened with with water. water. slices Soak the the skinned, skinned, sliced, and
and deseeded deseeded tomatoes, and the the Soak sliced, deseeded deseeded peppers
peppeTs in in a a dressing dressing prepared prepared as follows: sliced, Pound in
in a a mortar mortar 2 2 cloves cl oves of of garlic. garlic. Season Season with
with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, Pound and a a little little cumin. cumin. Blend
Blend with with oil oil and vinegar; vinegar; add a little and

Gazelle Gazelle
(Grün) (Griin)

422 422
GHERKIN GHERKIN
Method. Method. Put Put the the sugar, sugar, eggs, eggs, salt, salt, and and
vanilla vanilla bean bean in in a a pan and whisk whisk over over very very gentle
gentle heat. heat. When When the the mixture mixture begins begins to and foam and
and rise ri se well well up up in the the pan, pan, remove remove from the the
stove stove and

continue whisking whisking until it is is cold. Still beating beating the mixture,
mixture, continue add the the flour, flour, using using a dredger, and the the
butter, butter, which should be melted melted and tepid. tepid. be into baking tins
tins and and bake bake in in the oven oyen at at 190'C. 190 c C. Pour into (375"F.,
(375°F., Gas Mark 5) for 40 to 45 minutes. Geooese cake II. n. pArE PÂTÉ A À
cENoIsr GÉNOISE A À L'ANcIENNu L'ANCIENNE - Ingre' IngreGenoese dients. 500 g. g.
(18 (18 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) fine sugar, 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., dients.500 oz., I
4i- cups) sieved flour, flour, 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz., 1 cup) cup) sweet almonds, 4|
(l oz.,2t oz., 2t tablespoons) bitter bitter almonds, 300 g. g. (ll (II oz., 25 g.
(1 11 cups) butter, 12 eggs, eggs, small pinch of salt. l{ Method. M ethod. Blanch
and pound the the almonds to to a fine powder powder in sugar, eggs. Add the sugar,
a mortar. Put in a bowl and mix in 2 eggs. flour, flour, and and 5 whole whole
eggs. eggs. Beat with a a wooden spoon for 5 butter, and the remainminutes. Add 5
egg yolks, the melted butter, beaten. ing whites, beaten. mixture into buttered
baking baking tins tins and bake bake in a hot Put the mixture oyen. oven. Bake a
L'ABRIcor GÉNOISE A À L'ABRICOT - Bake Apricot Geooese cake. c6Nots Apricot Genoese
cake. 3 layers of equal Genoese cake. cake. Slice it horizontally into into 3 Slice
it jam through siwe and flavour thickness. Rub Rub apricot apricotjam through a
sieve flavour it with with thickness. the middle cake. Cover I layer layer of cake.
kirsch. Spread on 1 Co ver with the kirsch. Spread on jam. Set the last slice
carefully carefully on slice. Spread with apricot apricot jam. together as top of
of the other. See that the edges of the cake fit togetber possible. neatly as
possible. jam, and and Spread the top and sides of of the cake with apricot jam,
flavoured with kirsch. ice it with with a Fondant icing (see ICING) flavouFed and
chopped chopped The The cake be sprinkled with blanched and cake may may be
almonds, and pistachio nuts or pistachio nuts chopped browned browned almonds, with
chopped or with Roy al icing (see ICING). decorated fruits or Royal decorated with
crystallised fruits

Genme Genoese cehe cake with witb fiIliry fiIling i à la la normonde. oormaude.
c&Nols GÉNOISE FouxRfo FOURRÉE i À round round Genoese cake cake horizontally
horizontally into into 2layers 2 layers ofequal of equal thickness. thickness.
Moisten Moisten the the halv,esw,ith halves with Calvados. Calvapos. Spread Spread
one half half with with thick thick apple jam jam mixod mixed with with half half
its its weight of of Frenchpastry French pastry cream crUlm (see (see CRFAMS)
CREAMS) flavoured flavoured with with Spread Calvados. Place half of of the cake on
on top. top. Spread Place the other half icing (see apricot jam jam over over the
the cake and and ice ice with Forlant Fondant icing (see quartered ICING) ICING)
flavoured with Calvados. Decorate with with quartered of apples cookod cooked in
syrup, halves of almonds, and lozpngss lozenges of angelica. angelica. sweral
cENTIANE GENTIAN. GENTIANE - General General name name given given to to several
gentian, as as well well' The large species of of plants. The large gentian or
yellow yellow gentian, preparation of of of this as other other flowers of tbis
family, are used used in the preparation is distilled distilled a digestive
liqueur, certain ap6ritifs. Gentiane, a certain apéritifs. liqueur, is has a and
has a Switzerland, and France and from in France and Switzerland, from the the
gentian gentian in distinctive distinctive taste much prized in these countries.
gentim is is treatOO of the gentian root of treated either bitter-tasting root The
large, bitter-tasting infusion. by soaking or infusion. (Earth,eater). GÉOPHAGE
AmericEoPnAcE Certain AmeriGEOPHAGIST (Eartb-eater). GEOPHAGISf - Certain of clay
clay soil. soil. to eat eat a a type of scarcity can Indians in times of scarci ty
used used to only to to create create an an value, and and serves serves only has
no no food food value, This soil soil has This illusion of satiety. are there are
and America, there In different different parts of Asia, Africa, and ln yellow
races rac€s are are especially especially geophagists. The yellow whole tribes of
geophagists. it has has been been peculiar custom, although it custom, although to
this this peculiar addicted to addicted ethnic peoples belonging to to other other
ethnic in several several peoplesbelonging observed in observed all latitudes. in
almost aIl found in groups. Geophagists are to be found groups. for the food for
and Sumatra, Sumatra, the clay which provides food In Java and Accord: preparation
in advance. advance. Accordsome preparation inhabitants undergoes sorne inhabitants
after ail all paste with water after a paste is mixed into a to Hekmeyer, it is ing
to other hard (such as stones and and other sand and and stones as sand bodies
(such foreign bodies foreign into thin thin rolled out out into It is i.s then then
rollOO removed. ft have been been removed. matter) have matter) fire. pan over a a
charcol;ll charcoal tire. in an an iron pan and baked baked in cakes and
LA LA NoRMANpeNORMANDE- Slice Slice a

potatoes, especially potatoes, for certain certain foods, especially

GEORGETTEGEORGETTE- Name for crayfish tails. freshwater crayfish of freshwater
ragofit of tails. a ragoût stuffed with a which are stuffed which

Germon

Genoese (Ko/lar) filling(Kollar) with chocolate chocolate fiJling cake with Genoese
cake

(tuna) sometimes for tunny sometimes also also Another name name for tunny (tuna)
GERMONGERMON - Another fish. its resemblance resemblanoe to to that that fish. of
its called white tunny, tunny, because because of ca lied white germon, which in
the Mediteris to to be found in the MediterThe common which is be found common
germon, The quite good eating. All eating. Ali makes qui ranean, has has white
white flesh flesh which which makes ranean, te good germon. In (tuna) may for
germon. In be used used for may be for tunny tunny (tuna) recipes suitable suitable
for recipes (tuna tunny (tuna is a a white-meat white-meat tunny coast albacore
albacore is the Pacific Pacific coast U.S.A. the V.S.A. fish). fish).

Genoese nounn6n AU eu cENoIs FOURRÉE filling. GÉNOISE chocolate fiUing. with

chocolate Genoese cake cake with 3 layers layers into 3 horizontally into cake
horizontally a Genoese Genoese cake Slice a - Slice butter cream cream of equal
thickness. layer of of Chocolate Chocolate butter Spread a a layer ofequal
thickness. Spread (see (see CREAMS) with another another slice. slice. slice of of
cake. cake. Coyer Cover with I slice CREAMS) on on 1 Spread the on top top of of
the last slice slice on Lay the the last cream. Lay with the the butter butter
cream. Spread with others. parts finnly together. firmly together. gently to three
parts stick the the three to stick others. Press Press gently jam and Spread with
and sprinkle sprinkle with apricot jam with apricot and sides sides with Spread the
the top top and chocolate and thousands. thousands. hundreds and chocolate hundreds
Genoese rounnnr AU .lu c6Nots FOURRÉE mocha cream. cream. GÉNOISE with mocha
Genoese cake cake with MOKA Infilling. Inchocolate filling. cake with with
chocolate Genoese cake MoKA -- Made Made like like Genoese put stead is put cream
is coffee butter butter cream cream, coffee butter cream, stead of of chocolate
chocolate butter between the top top and and spread on on the is then then spread
Apricot jam is the layers. layers. Apricotjam between the (sw sides icing (see
mocha Fondant Fondant icing iced with with mocha it is is iced the cake cake and
and it sides of of the ICING). rcrNG).
CHOCOLAT cHocoLAT -

CENOUE -_ See See CHEESE. CHEESE. GÉROMÉ

GEX -- See CHE'ESE. See CHEESE. GEX young fruits fruits of vqry young of are very
coRNIcHoNGherkins are GHERIKIN. CORNICHON GHERKIN. - Gherkins green, gathered
green, They are are gathered varieties of of cucumber. cucumber. They certain
certain varieties used as as a a condiment. condiment. preservod in in vinegar,
vinegar, and and used preserved (A vmrucnn (À (cooked). CORNICHONS eu VINAIGRE
coRNIcHoNs AU vinegar (cooked). Gberkins.in Gherkinsin vinegar gherkins and in salt
salt and soak soak them them in the gherkins Trim and and rub rub the CHAUD)
cu,lun) -- Trim well with with aa wipe them them weIl sieve, and and wipe in aa
sieve, for for 24 24 hours. hours. Drain Drain in cloth, one. cloth, one one by by
one. has which has with vinegar vinegar which and coyer cover with Put in a a large
large basin basin and Put them them in pan. Leave l0 hours. hours. Put Put the the
Leave for for 10 been in aa copper copper pan. been boiled boiled in Allow fresh
vinegar. vinegar. Allow some fresh adding sorne vinegar vinegar back back to to
boil, boil, adding j litre pints) (5f pints, pints, 6!(scantpint, pint, 2i 6|
pints) for 3 3 litres litres (5i2f, cups) cups) for litre (scant ~

423 423
GIBLETS GIBLETS
boiled vinegar. vinegar. Pour Pour the theboiling gherkins. boiling vinegar
vinegaron onthe thegherkins. boiled Thenext jarsor next day, gherkins, put
day,drain drain the putthem the gherkins, themin pots, The injars orpots, with
small small white white onions, onions, cbillis, chillis, sprigs sprigsofthyme, of
thyme, fragments fragmentsof with of bay,tarragon sprigs, and tarragon sprigs, and
cloves, cloves, and and coyer cover with bay, withthe thevinegar. vinegar. jars
hermetically pots or Seal the the pots hermetically and or jars andkeep keep in
place. inaacool Seal cool place. (uncooked). CORNICHONS Gherkins in in vinegar
vinegar (uncooked). coRNrcHoNS AU Gberkins AUVINAIGRE vrNArcRE (,i. CRU) gherkins
with cnu) -- Rub Rub the the gherkins with aacloth, cloth, or or brush brush them,
(À them, to to remove the down down which which covers covers them. them. Steep
Steep in in aa basin rem ove the basin of of sea-salt. Leave Leave for for 24 24
bours. hours. Drain, Drain, wash wash them them in in vinegar sea-salt. vinegar
water, drain drain again, again, and and wipe wipe them them one water, one by by
one. one. jar or Arrange them glass jar them in in aaglass or in in aastoneware
pot,adding stoneware pot, Arrange adding small white white onions, onions, chillis,
chillis, sprigs sprigs ofthyme, of thyme, fragments small fragmentsof of bay bay
leaf, tarragon tarragon sprigs sprigs and and cloves. cloves. Co Cover with wine
winevinegar. vinegar. leaf, ver with pots hermetically, place. hermetically, and
Seal the the pots and keep keep in in aa cool cool place. Seal prepared in Gherkins
prepared in this this way way can can be kept for for 4 4 to weeks. Gherkins to5
5weeks. be kept gherkins à Fresh salt salt gberkins la russe. russe. CORNICHONS
coRNIcHoNs FRAIS FRArsSALÉS srfs À ALA Fresil i la rl gherkins in RUssE -- Wash
Wash 24 24 fresh fresh gherkins in lukewarm lukewarm water RUSSE water without
without trimming trimming them. them. Leave Leave to to cool cool in in a a large
large basin basin of of cold cold water. water. jar in Drain Drain and and wipe
wipe them. them. Put Put in in a a jar in layers layers with with blackcurrant
blackcurrant leaves and fennel between. leaves and sprays sprays of of fennel
between. Put shavings of horseradish and and a Put shavings of horseradish a layer
layer of of blackcurrant blackcurrant gherkins, which leaves leaves on on the the
last last layer layer of of gherkins, should reach reach 2 which should 2 cm. cm.
(* inch) (! inch) below top of of the receptacle. Press below the the top the
receptacle. Press the the leaves leaves down. Boil pour over down. Boil salt
gherkins. salt water, water, cool, cool, and and pour over the the gherkins. Leave
to to soak for 24 24 ho urs. Leave soak for hours. Gherkins are are used Gherkins
ussia. as an an hors-d'œuvre used as hors-d'uuyre in in R Russia.

GIBLETS. ABATIS GIBLETS. ABATTs -- The The head, head, neck, neck, heart, pinions,
feet, heart, pinions, feet, guzard, and gizzard, poultry, as and liver liver of of
poultry, as weil well as as cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys. giblets of
The giblets The of turkeys turkeys and and large large chickens chickens are are
used used for for ragofits, and making ragoûts, and improving the the taste taste
of of stocks stocks and clear and clear soups. soups. Cocks' combs, and
Cocks'combs, and kidneys and and livers livers of of fowl fowl are are used used
for for certain garnishes such certain classic classic garnishes such as as
financière, Toulouse, and and financidre, Toulouse, ambassadrice, and and other
dishes of of a a similar similar type. The livers liven of geese and ducks giblets.
ducks are not considered considered as as giblets. These are are expensive
delicacies delicacies and and require special preparation.
t .'.'

Chicken giblets gible!s (Scarncti) (Scarnali) Chicken

Metbods of preparing preparing poultry poultry giblets giblets - The The giblets
giblets of of Methods - used turkeys-and geese are are those those most most
frequently frequently used for ragoûts. turkeys and geese for ragofrts. Before
being being used, used, giblets giblets should be be thoroughly thoroughly washed
washed and and Before trimmed. Singe Singe the the neck, neck, head, head, and and
pinions, pinions, and and remove rem ove all ail trimmed. outer skin skin which
which covers covers feathers. Scald Scald the the feet, feet, peel peel off off the
the outer feathers. them, and and pare pare offthe off the end end of ofthe the
spurs. spurs. Slit Slit the the gizzard on the the thern, gizzard on curved side,
side, open open it it and and remove rem ove the the innerbag, inner bag, taking
taking care care not not curved to break break it, it, as as it it is is full fuU
of of grit. grit. Remove Remove the the gall gall bladder bladder from from to the
liver liver and and trim trim off off the the upper upper part part of of the the
heart. heart. The The pinions, pin ions, the
424 424

neck, neck,and andhead headof geese,and ofturkeys, turkeys, geese, andducks

ducksshould shouldbe be scalded pluckingeasier. scaldedto tomake makeplucking
easier.Plunge Plungethem theminto intoboiling boiling water pluckimmediately.
waterand andpluck immediately. The giblets ofvarious Thegiblets of variouskinds
kindsofpoultry prepared in of poultryare areail allprepared inaa similar
similarmanner. manner. Recipes Recipes are givenonly aretherefore thereforegiven
onlyfor forturkey turkey giblets, giblets,which arethe the biggest. which are
biggest.Depending Dependingon howtender onhow tenderthe the giblets giblets are,
are,itit will willbe besufficient sufficient to toincrease increase or ordecrease
decreasethe the period of period ofcooking. cooking. Only Onlystocks stocks made
made of ofthe thesame same kind kindof ofmeat meat as asthat thatwhich which forms
formsthe thebasis basisof ofthe theragoût ragofit should should be beused;
used;otherwise otherwiseuse use water. water. A Achicken chickenragoût ragodt
should shouldbe bemoistened moistened with withchicken chickenor or veal vealstock,
stock, but butnever never with with lamb lambor ormutton muttonstock. stock. ln
Inaddition addition to tothe given below, therecipes recipes given givenfor
below,aU allthose those given for lamb, lamb, mutton, mutton,veal veal or
chickenragoûts orchicken ragofits can canalso alsobe beapplied appliedto to
giblets. giblets. (See (See RAGOÛTS.) RAGOUTS.) The The livers livers of of duck,
duck, turkey, gooseand turkey,goose andchicken chickenshould shouldnot not be
beadded added to giblet ragoûts to the thevarious variousgiblet ragoitsearlier
earlierthan than 10 l0minutes minutes before before removing removing from from the
the heat. heat. These These livers liven are are used used separately,
separately,sautéed, saut6ed, cooked cooked on on skewers, skewers, in pilaf or in
pilaf prepared in or risotto, risotto, or or prepared (See inother other ways.
ways.(See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARlETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) Duck Duck and and
chicken giblets. ABATIS chicken giblets. ABArrs DE DECANARDS cANARDs ET ET DE DE
POULETS PouLETs -- Prepared Prepared in in the the same sameways giblets (see (see
ways as turkeygiblets asturkey below). below). Giblet Giblet soup soup -- See See
SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS. BROTHS. Turkey giblets ài l'anglaise. Turkey giblets
I'anglaise. ABATIS ABArrs DE DE DINDE DrNDE À AL'ANGLAISEr'ANcualsn Ingredients.
Ingredients. One (or 2 One large large set set (or giblets: head, small sets) sets)
giblets: 2 smaU head, neck, liver, feet pinions, gizzard, gizzard,liver, neck,
pinions, feet -- 700 g. (Ji (l? lb.) 700 to to 800 800 g. lb.) -2 2 medium medium
large large onions, onions, 2 potatoes, aa bouquet 2 large large potatoes, garni (a
(a bouquet garni sprig sprig of parsley, thyme of parsley, thyme and and half half
aa bay bay leaf), leaf), 1 I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley,
parsley, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped chervil, pepper. chervil, salt,
salt, pepper. Method. ions and Method. Scald Scald the the head, head, neck, neck,
pin pinions and feet, feet, and and rem ove ail remove all feathers. feathers. Slit
Slit and and clean gizzard, remove clean the thegizzard, remove the the gall gall
bladder bladder from from the the liver, liver, cut cut up giblets into up the the
giblets into uniform uniform and potatoes. pieces. Slice the on ions pieces. Slice
the onions and potatoes. Put ions and Put half half the the on potatoes into onions
and the the potatoes into aa shallow pan, shallow pan, and and sprinkle sprinkle
with with half half the the chopped parsley. Put chopped parsley. pieces of Put the
the pieces of giblets, giblets, except liver, on except the the liver, on this this
layer layer of of vegetables. vegetables. Coyer Cover with with the the rest rest
of potatoes and of the the onions, onions, potatoes parsley. and chopped chopped
parsley. Put garni in Put the the bouquet bouquet garni tn the the middle, middle,
season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and pour in and pour
enough water in enough water to to coyer. cover. Boil Boil fast fast on on a a high
high !lame. flame. Then Then draw pan to draw the the pan to the the edge edge of
of the the bumer, burner, coyer, cover, and and keep keep it it simmering simmering
moderately moderately but but continuously for 45 minutes. Ten minutes before
serving continuously for 45 minutes. Ten minutes before serving add add the the
liver. Serve giblets in Serve the the giblets in a a shallow shallow dish, dish,
and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped chervil. chervil. Turkey
giblets bonne femme. ABATIS DE DINDE BONNE Turkey giblets bonne femme. ABATTs DE
DINDE BoNNE FEMME FEMI\IE Ingredienls. One large set (or 2 One large set (or 2
small giblets -small sets) sets) giblets - Ingredients. 700 to 800 25 g. (1 oz., 2
tablespoons) butter, 100 g. ( lf lb.), g. (li 700 to (l 800 g. lb .),25 o2.,2
tablespoons) butter, I 00 g. E. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean unsalted unsalted bacon,
(4 oz.) bacon, 100 g. (4 100 g. small onions, oz.) small onions, 24 small 24 small
new new carrots carrots or or 3 large carrots 3 large carrots eut cut to to size
size of of new new carrots, g. (\ carrots, 25 25 g. oz., I cup) (6 tablespoons,
cup) Rour, flour, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant Q oz., ~ cup) garni, 1
white wine, wine, a a bouquet bouquet garni, g"p) white gailic, li I clove clove of
of garlic, lf litres litres t (2i pints) water, water, salt, (2| pints, pints, 2i
2f pints) pepper. salt, pepper. Method. Follow the instructions Method. Follow the
instructions given given in in the the recipe recipe for for Turkey giblets à
Turkey giblets (see below). d la la bourgeoise bourgeorie (see below). Turkey
giblets à la bourgeoise. ABATIS DE DINDE À Turkey giblets I la bourgeoise.
^q,nA,rrs os on{op A LA r.a BOURGEOISE - IngredientsIngredients. One aU sets)
BouRceorsE (or 2 One large large set set (or 2 sm small sets) i lb.), lb.), 25 2
tablespoons) giblets - 700 to 800 giblets (1* g. (1 700 to 800 g. (l oz., g. (1 25
g. o2.,2 tablespoons) butter, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean unsalted g.
(4 oz.) small butter, unsalted bacon, bacon, 100 100 g. (a oz.) small on ions, 24
small new carrots or 3 large carrots cut to size of onions, 24 small new carrots or
3 large carrots cut to size of new carrots,25 carrots, 25 g. (\ oz., 1 dl.
tablespoons, new g.(l (6 tablespoons, oz., i cup) cup) flour, flour, I dl. (6 white
wine, wine, a a bouquet a clove scant ~ cup) garni, a white garlic, scant bouquet
garni, clove of of garlic, I cup)pints, li litres litres (2| pints, 2i pints)
pints) water, water, salt, pepper. lf 2| salt, pepper. Method. Prepare Prepare the
the giblets giblets as indicated in the recipe recipe for Method. as indicated in
the for Turkey giblets giblets d à I'anglaise. l'anglaise. Blanch Blanch and and
dice dice the the bacon. bacon. Peel Turkey Peel and new new carrots, carrots, peel
peel and and chop chop the the clove garlic. the onions onions and clove of
ofgarlic. the

(2±
GIGOT. MANCHE DE GIGOT,
Heat the the butter butter in a shallow pan. Add the bacon, brown brown it Heat and
remove remove it. iL Fry Fry the onions on ions until golden. golden. Drain and
light!y, and lightly, put put with with the the bacon. bacon. Brown the giblets,
giblets, except except the liver, on a high high flame, fia me, turning Brown Add
the with a spoon to ensure even even cooking. Add the chopped garlic with and
sprinkle with the flour. fiour. Stir to blend, and as as soon as the flour begins
to brown, moisten with the white wine and boil moistening with a few few minutes.
minutes. Complete Complete the the moistening down for a enough water water or
stock to cover. co ver. enough salt bouqel garni,bacon, garni, onions and carrots.
Add salt Add the bouqet Coyer the pan and as as it begins to boil as soon soon as
and pepper. Cover cooking on moderate fast reduce the heat and leave to finish
cooking heat for 45 45 minutes. Ten Ten minutes before serving, serving, add add
the the heat the giblets Iiver. Arrange the giblets in add the dish and and add in
a a shallow shallow dish liver. garnish. Pour the sauce sauce over. pwon À A LA TIS
DE ABATIs or DINDE u I la bourguignonne. ABA Turkey giblets à (or BOURGUIGNONNE One
set (or 2 2 small) One large set Ingredients. BouRGUIcNoNNE (l oz., (lt lb.), 2
tableg. (I~ g. (1 o2.,2 tablelb.), 25 g. to 800 g. turkey giblets - 700 to (4 oz.)
spoons) butter, butter, 100 g. (4 100 g. lean bacon, bacon, 100 desalted lean oz.)
desalted spoons) 100 g. oz.) small onions, onions, 100 (4 oz.) cultivated (4 oz.)
g. (4 cultivated mushrooms, 100 g. (scant pint,2f, Rour, t 2* cups) 1 red wine, a a
cups) red I tablespoon flour, I litre (scant (scant pint, 2* 2f cups) cups) bouquet
garni, a a c10ve clove of garlic, t litre (seant water or stock, salt, pepper.
pepper. Method. Follow the given in in the recipe for for the recipe instructions
given Method. the instructions
Turkey giblets giblels à d la Ia bourgeoise. 11S DE giblets chasseur. DE DINDE
DINDE CHASSEUR cHASSEUR -ABATIS chasseur. ABA Turkey giblets pepper and fry them in
a and fry them in a salt and and pepper with salt Season the giblets with shallow
proportions. pan, using in equal equal proportions. oil and and butter butter in
shallow pan, using oil Drain, and and keep hot. In the same same pan put 100 g. (4
oz.) thinly sliced mushrooms and moisten shallots, moisten 2 chopped chopped
shaJiots, and cook on on a a high flame. Add 2 with half a and boil down. down.
wine, and a glass white wine, (see Add Tomato sauce sauce (see scant t cup) Tomato
Add 1 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant t cup) SAUCE) and 2 ({ pint, veal
thickened brown pint, scant cup) cup) thickened brown veal 2 dl. dl. (i stock. Put
the sauce. Reheat without without boiling boiling this sauce. the giblets into tbis
and and tarragon. tarragon. chervil and and add add 1 1 tablespoon choppod parsley,
chervil The is The tomato sauce is tomato sauce The dish not be too too thick. The
dish should not sufficient to give it consistency. it the the desired desired
consistency. Turkey DE DINDE DINDE ABATIS DE giblets with sausages. ABATIS with
chipolata sausages. Turkey giblets À (or 2 sets) set (or 2 small small sets) One
large set r,c, CHIPOLATA A LA cHpor sre, -Ingredients. - Ingredients. One 2
tableturkey (l oz., o2.,2 table700 to to 800 800 g. (li lb.), 25 g. (l turkey
giblets - 700 small onions, onions, 5 or or 6 6 blanched and glazd small butter, 5
spoons) butter, in stock stock with with cooked in peeled and three-quarters cooked
and three-quarters 24 chestnuts, chestnuts, peeled a chipolata 8 cooked cooked
chipolata 1 tablespoon tablespoon butter, butter, 8 a pinch ofsugar of sugar and
and 1 sausages, bacon, diced and and browned browned bacon, oz.) desalted,
desalted, diced sausages, 50 50 g. (2 Q oz.) 1 (6 tablespoons, scant f cup) white
cup) white I dl. dl. (6 I tablespoon tablespoon flour, 1 wine, garnr, 1* salt,
water, salt, l| litres litres (2f pints, 2| pints) water, a bouquet bouquet garni,
wine, a pepper. pepper. Method. given in recipe for for in the the recipe
instructions given Method. Follow the instructions Follow the Turkey giblets à The
cooked chestnuts should should cooked chestnuts Turkey giblets d la la bourgeoise.
bourgeorse. The not serving. minutes before before serving. until 15 15 minutes not
be to the the ragoAt until be added added to TIS DE Turkey DINDE À A L'ÉCOSr'6cos
DE DINDE ABATIS i l'6cossaise. ABA Turkey giblets à SAISEwith giblets bonnefemme
bonnefemmewith recipe for for Turkey Turkey giblets sAIsB- Follow the the recipe
2,dl. garnish made finely made up up of of finely (+ pint, pint, seant scant cup)
cup) Brunoise Brunoise garnish 2,d1. (~ shredded cooked in in butter, and
halfcooked butter, and celery and and ornons onions half shredded carrots, carrots,
celery hulled previously soaked in warm and cooked cooked soaked in warm water
water and hulld barley, barley, previously in minutes. for 35 35 minutes. in salted
salted water water for Turkey DINDE À A LA La FERrrnDE DINDE giblets à la fermière.
fermibre. ABATIS ABATIS DE I ia Turkey giblets MIÈRE giblets à d la la bourgeoise
bourgeoise recipe for for Turkey Turkey giblets Follow the the recipe uGnB --
Follow but (f, pint, pint, garnish given given for recipe by 4 dl. dl. (~ for that
that recipe by 4 the garnish but replace the (see FONDUE). Vegetable fondue scant 2
caps) Vegetable fondue (see FONDUE). turkey giblets gibleb (early French ABATIS DE
DE French recipe). ABATIS Fricassee ofturkey DINDE giblets, put put BLANC --
Prepare turkey giblets, EN FRICASSÉE FRICASS6E AU AU BLANC DrNDE EN into butter,
tablespoons) butter, into a with 2 2 tabJespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) a
saucepan saucepan with 2 a garhc,Z garni of parsley, a I c10ve ofgarlic, clove of a
scallion, scallion, 1 a bouquet bouquet garni of parsley, iL and c1oves, Add aa
mushrooms. Add and sorne some mushrooms. leaf, bas basil, cloves, thyme, bay leaf,
pinch salt season with with salt pinch of or stock, stock, season with water water
or of flour, moisten with and and pepper, and ground pepper, Boil down down and and
cook. cook. Boil coarsely ground and coarsely

gradually 3 egg herbs, add add "","''''''ACU.'J Remove the the herbs, sauce. Remove
thicken the thicken the sauce. (scant t cream, yolks blended with 3 tablespoons
tablespoons (seant m, withi ".rp) crea juice or lemon lemon juice A dash of vinegar
or dash of to the the boil. boil. A out bringing to sauce. the sauce. rouxbefore to
the the roux may be added to before binding the FRIToT -DINDE EN EN FRlTOT DE DINDE
giblets fried in baffer. ABATIS batter. ABA Turkey gibJets 11S DE for leave to to
cool. cool. Soak Soak for and leave stock. Drain, and Cook the giblets in stock. a
few few drops drops oil, a of 1 I tablespoon tablespoon oil, in a a marinade of 30
minutes in 30 juice, chopped parsley, salt salt and and pepper. chopped parsley,
vinegar or or lemon juice, vinegar g. (3 from 75 made from 75 g. Coat the giblets
in batter made Q oz., ~ f cup) flour, (6 tablespoons, scant f cup) warm
tablespoons, seant I dl. dl. (6 I tablespoon oil, oil, 1 1 pepper, and egg white
added and 1 I stifHy stiffy whisked whisked egg water, salt, pepper, water, left to
to stand. stand. has been mixture has been !eft after the mixture sprinkle fat.
Drain, Drain, sprinkle giblets in in smoking-hot deep fat. Fry the the giblets
quarters parsley and and quarters and garnish with fried parsley with fine dry
salt, and sauce. tomato sauce. of lemon. lemon. Serve with tomato of (bash method).
DE DINDE DINDE EN EN ABATIS giblet rago0t (basic method). ABA Turkey 11S DE Turkey
giblet gizzard into pinions and into neck, pinions and gizzard the neck, A BRUN
snuN -- Cut the RAGOÛT RAcoOr À are being being used. used. feet, if if they are
the feet, also the pieces; also pan in has been been in which which butter butter
has giblets into into a a shallow pan Put the giblets with Rour flour to time.
time. Sprinkle with time to heated. Cook, from time heated. Cook, stirring from a !
iule little crushed crushed garlic. Moisten with and lightly. Add a and brown brown
lightly. garni. a bouquet bouquet garni. wine. Add a a little little white white
wine. stock and a stock or or water water and pan with cook lid and and cook the
pan with a a !id cover ver the boil, season, season, co Bring to to the the boil,
caregiblets, trim them, and and carethe giblets, trim them, for minutes. Strain
Strain the for 30 to to 35 35 minutes. giblets back in back in the boned boned
giblets Put the fully splinters. Put fully remove remove ail all bone splinters.
pan. a a clean clean pan. vegetables, lightly fried fried vegetables, and Iightly
Garnish blanched and with blanched Garnish with juices left pan, in the the pan,
left in the juices according Sieve the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Sieve
according to to the pour over pur6e, and the over the and pour remove tomato purée,
fat, add add tomato remove surplus surplus fat, in the the finish cooking cooking
in giblets. giblets. Bring and finish the boil, boil, coyer, cover, and Bring to to
the not Take care care not the liver. liver. Take oven; serving, add add the before
serving, minutes before l0 minutes oven; 10 to giblets or serving. vegetables when
when serving. the giblets or vegetables to break break the gSblet ragoûts done The
ragoils is is usually usually done brown giblet The moistening of of brown They
could could also also with light stock. stock. They and light with veal veal or
broth and or chicken broth quantity small quantity be by a small supplemented bya
water, supplemented with water, moistened with be moistened of of tomato tomato
pur6e. Turkey TlS DE ALrx NAVETS NAVETSDE DINDE DINDE AUX ABATIS Turkey giblets
with tumips. ABA guz.ards to 'Take to empty empty Open the the gizzards 'Take 2
turkey giblets. Open 2 sets sets of of turkey pluck them singe them; them and
andsinge necks, pluck the necks, and the scald the the pinions and them; scald
them, then running tap, tap, then wash under under aa running and wash cut into
into pieces and them, eut into drain. 225 g. (8 oz.) cut into oz.) bacon bacon eut
piece of with225 of butter butterwith drain. Put Put a a piece giblets put in large
in the the giblets it is is fried, put when it into a a saucepan; saucepan; when
large dice dice into to moisten and moisten a!iule little fiour flour and with a
little. Sprinkle Sprinkle with them a a little. to colour colour them with salt,
4cloves, cloves,salt, stuck with with 4 an onion onion stuck Add an or water.
water. Add with stock stock or like to look look like the turnips to Cut the
pepper, and and a a bouquet garni. Cut into aa sugar into put them with sorne
butter and sugar some butter large olives, olives, put saucepan sauce in inwhich
which the sauce Moisten with with the lightly. Moisten to brown brown lightly.
saucepan to the giblets, boil boil the giblets, to the the turnips turnips to
giblets were add the cooked, add the giblets were cooked, gently to down to Simmpr
gently consistency. Simmer to the the desired desired consistency. the sauce sauc€
to down the allow en be Taste to to see see removed.Taste then be removed. should
th rise, which which should allow fat fat to to rise, if ions the bouquetand onions
andthe the on remove the salt, remove if there is enough enough salt, there is
stuck (From La Grande Cuisine Grande Cuisine hot.' (From Serve hot.' stuck with
with cloyes. cloves. Serve simplifiée, published by 1845.) by Audot, Audot, 1845.)
Paris, published Robert, Paris, simplifiie, by by Robert, Giblets mushwith
mushprepared in manner with in the the same same manner be prepared Giblets can can
be rooms, etc. cucumbers etc. hearts, cucumbers rooms, celeriac, celeriac,
artichoke artichoke hearts, Turkey for chicken chicken All recipes recipes for
FoIEs DE DE DINDES DINDEs - - Ali Turkey livers. livers. FOlES livers livers of of
turkeys. for the the livers suitable for livers are are suitable Turkey
anddelicately delicately very large and sometimes very livers are are sometimes
Turkey livers flavoured. gooselivers the liversand andthe and goose to duck duck
and They are aresimilar similar to flavoured. They same tothem. them. applied to
can be beapplied methods of of preparation can same methods the DE PIGEONNEAUX
PIcEoNNEALx- - Usually Usuallythe prgeon livers. FOIES FoIESDE Yrung pigeon pigeon
tains no if gall, is leftinside insidethe the bird bird if nogall, isleft pigeon
liver, which contains which con it pot-roasted or roasted. orroasted. stewed, pot-
roasted it is is to to be be braised, braised, stewed, AH table for pigeonIivers.
livers. forpigeon aresui suitable liversare forchicken chickenlivers All recipes
recipes for
GIGOT, - Small to attached to metalappliance appliance attached DESmall metal
MAI\CHE DE GIG'OT, MANCI-IE the cooking to to legof mutton after after cooking,
ofmutton ofthe the leg or'handle' the bone bone or 'handle'of keep whilecarving.
carving. keep it it steady steady while 425 425
GIGUE
GIGUE GIGUE - See HAUNCH. HAUNCH. GILD. GILD. DoRER DORER - Some Sorne types types
of of pastry pastry and and other other preparations preparations are brushed
brushed with egg (gilded or glazed) glazed) before browning in the the oven. oven.

Girella

GIMBLETTE GIMBLETTE - See RING-BISCUIT. GIMLET. GIMLET. FoREr FORET - Steel point
used to penetrate wood and
casks. casks. Also Aiso used used by by wine waiters to uncork bottles.

GIN GIN * - Spirit, distilled from grain (barley, wheat, oats) and flavoured
flavoured with with juniper juniper berries. berries.

pouch in GIZZARD. cfsnn GÉSIER birds. In Third digestive pouch in birds. - Tbird
birds of prey, it has a grain-eating a membraneous lining. In grain-eating birds,
birds. it is very muscular and thick. GJETOST _ - See CHEESE. CHEESE. GJETOST quite
distinct word. is used used for for several several quite word, It It is distinct
operations operations for
terrns in English. which there are various terms which In ln its proper proper
sense, glacer means to freeze a liquid until it tums to ice. Thus Thus a creamy or
other mixture mixture may be be put in a turns make une glace, freezer with salt,
saltpetre and natural natural ice to make that is to say an ice cream or water ice.
(See ICE CREAMS that CREAMS AND rCES.) ICES.) also used for browning or glazing in
a very glaçage is also But glagage braised cut of meat, poultry or game is glaci
glacé hot oven. A braised (browned or glazed) glazed) by being being subjected
subjected to intense heat in the (browned or oven after after basting basting in in
its its own own stock. stock. Meat Meat is said said to to be be browned oven glazd
(with (with jelly) if if served hot, and glazed if if served cold. Glaçage is used
for glazing glazing when when it is applied to fish, eggs eggs Glagage or anything
anything else covered covered with a white white sauce. sauce. It It can can also
mean or confectionery glazing in the sense of sprinkling sweets and confectionery
with icing icing sugar sugar and subjecting subjecting them tbem to to intense
intense heat. heat. This This last with of glagage glaçage is also applied a pplied
to to carrots, turnips turnips and and onions. forrn of form icing of of cakes. The
term is applied also to the icing GLACE DE DE VIANDE VlANDESee MEAT. MEAT. GLACE -
See GLACIÈRE - The terrn glacière has two meanings; ice box GLACIERE term glaciire
refrigerator, or or a sugar-dredger. sugar-dredger. or refrigerator, GLASS AND AND
GLASSES. GLASSES. vnnnn, VERRE, vERRERTEVERRERIE - Ever Ever since since glass
glass GLASS contain was invented invented it has has been been used to make make
receptacles receptac1es to contain was and store store drinks drinks and and
foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Glass Glass utensils utensils were used used side and by
side with with the the pottery pottery which which had bad served the same same
purpose purpose by since ancient ancient times. times. Glass, Glass, which which by
by its its transparency transparency allowed allowed since be seen, was was
preferred for flagons conconthe liquid liquid inside inside to to be the drinking
vessels because because it afforded afforded taining drinks drinks and for drinking
taining GLAÇAGE - There is no no single English equivalent for this GLACAGE

Ginger Ginger in in root root form, form. preserved preserved and and powdered
powdered (Fauc (Fauchon. PhOI, Nicolas) hon. P ho t. Nic o las)

GINGER. cINGEMBREGINGEMBRE - Root-stock Root-stock of of a a tropical tropical

plant plant which which GINGER. grew in Bengal Bengal and and Malabar. Malabar. It
is is sold sold in in two two grew originally originally in forms. Grey Grey ginger
ginger has has the the stronger stronger smell smell and and comes cornes in in
forms. tubercles 4 4 to to l0 10 cm. cm. (l| (li to to 4 4 inches) inches) long
long and and I 1 to to 2 2 cm. cm. @ (i to to tubercles inch) thick, thick, covered
covered with with a a greyish-yellow greyish-yellow skin skin and and wellwellft
inch) defined rings. rings. White White ginger ginger is is sold sold skinned
skinned and and cut cut up up into into defined smaller pieces. pieces. smaller It
is is used used as as a a condiment. condiment. Jam Jam is is also also made made
with with ginger. ginger. It GINGER BEER BEER - See See BEER. BEER. GINGER
GffiAFFE. cIRAFE GIRAFE - Ruminant Ruminant African African mammal. mammal. Its Its
flesh flesh is is GIRAIT'E. edible. edible. GffiAUMON - West West Indian Indian
pumpkin. pumpkin. Its Its flesh flesh is is sweet sweet and and GIRAUMON delicate,
sometimes sometimes with with a a musky musky flavour. flavour. It It is is eaten
eaten raw raw in in delicate, or cooked cooked with with other other types types of
of gourd gourd salads like like cucumber, cucumber, or salads and pumpkin. pumpkin.
(See (See GOURD, GOURD, PUMPKIN.) PUMPKIN.) and GIRDLE (U.S. (V.S. GRIDDLE).
GRIDDLE). cALETToIRE GALETTOIRE - Flat iron pan pan GIRDLE - Flat iron without an
an edge edge or or with with a a very very shallow shallow edge, edge, used used
for for baking baking without pancakes of ofwholemeal wholemeal flour flour called
called galetons, galetons, drop drop scones scones or or pancakes girdle cakes
cakes (U.S. (U .S. griddle griddle cakes). cakes). girdle and has has no no scales.
scales. fully coloured coloured and fully The common common girella girella is is
violet violet with with an an orange orange stripe; stripe; the the red red The
girella,a a rich rich scarlet;the scarlet; the Turkish Turkishgirella,green
girella, green with wi th turquoise turq uoise girella, Mediterranean fish. fish.
blue stripes. stripes. These These are are all aIl Mediterranean blue is used used
mainly mainly tn in bouillabaisse bouillabaisse (q.v.), (q.v.), but but it it can
can be be Girella is Girella served fried. fried. Its Itsftesb is fairlv fairly
delicate. delicate. served flesh is GffiELLA. cIRELLE GIRELLE - Small, Small,
graceful graceful sea-fish. sea-fish. It It is is beautibeautiGIRELLA.

Old bottles bottles and and old old champagne champagne glasses glasses Old

426 426
GNOCCHI GNOCCHI

I ,l
..

nn\

\lil
t' ,
*

"'"4
it
"+{*",

:{

Left : Three Lefl. Three series series of of glasses glasses

,.1r"*:
4; %.

*.'''

qi;:.,k,

lbove. Above. Glasses Glasses for for Burgundy, Burgund,y, Bordeaux, Bordeaux,
Moselle Moselle and Rhine Rh ine wine
:!s

('Au vase |trusque'. Phot. vaseélrusque'. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas)

pleasure pleasure to to the the eye at at the the same same time time as as the the
pleasure pleasure to the the palate. palate. There There exist, exist, in in
museums museums and and private priva te collections, collections, bottles,
bottles, carafes carafes and and drinking drinking vessels vessels of of every
every period period and and every every country. country. When When glass-makers
glass-makers were were sufficiently sufficiently masters masters of of their their
techtechnique nique to to be be able able to to seek seek artistic artistic
effects, effects, objects objects made made of of glass glass sometimes became
purely purely ornamental. ornamental. sometimes became The The shape shape of of
the the glass glass is is so so very very important important for for the the full
full appreciation appreciation of of wine, wine, that that each each region region
has has produced produced the the shape shape that that best best enhances enhances
its its particular particular wine. wine. As As a a general general rule, rule, the
the glass glass should should be be as as fine fine as as possible, possible, roomy
roomy (it must must never never be be filled filled to to the the brim), brim),
with with bombi bombé shoulders shoulders so so that that the the wine ample room
room to to develop develop its its aroma. aroma. Champagne, Champagne, on on wine
has has ample the the other other hand, hand, should should be be served served in
in narrow narrow glasses glasses to to prevent prevent the the bouquet bouquet from
from being being dissipated. dissipated. A A flute fiute glass glass or, or, better
better still, still, a a tulip tulip glass glass is is the the most most suitable.
suitable.

diabetics, have a quantity of of gluten added. added. Gluten Gluten bread bread
still retains retains an an average average of 40 per cent of starch while potatoes
contain contain only 23 23 per per cent. cent. These These products products are
are not recommended, since they they mended, except in very mild cases cases of
diabetes, since contain contain such a high proportion proportion of of starch. In
cases where where the starch content has has been been appreciably appreciably
reduced, reduced, the product product no starch content longer longer bears bears
any real real resemblance resemblance to to bread. bread.

GLUX GLUX - See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

GLYCÉRINE - Colourless, Colourless, sweetish, sweetish, syrupy GLYCERINE. crvcfntNe
liquid, a a by-product by-product of ofsoap manufacture. It liquid, It can be
extracted soap manufacture. from most most fats. fats. from can be be used in
industrial confectionery confectionery without without Glycerine can Glycerine
injury to to health. health. It is also regarded as a valuable substitute injury
sugar in the the sweetening sweetening of of diabetic diabetic foods. foods. for
sugar

GLAZES. cLACES GLACES - Glazes Glazes are are stocks stocks reduced reduced to to a
a syrupy syrupy GLAZES. in order order to to consistency used used as as a a finish
finish for for certain certain sauces sauces in consistency enhance their their
flavour fiavour and and improve improve their their consistency. consistency.
enhance A demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce is is one one obtained obtained from
from the the combination combination A of Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE), SAUCE), light light brown brown stock, and and of Madeira. Madeira.
GLUCOMETER. crucorrlirnn. GLUCOMÈTRE, clycoMirRE GL YCOMÈTRE - Graduated Graduated
GLUCOMETER. hydrometer used used for for the the instantaneous instantaneous
assessment assessment of the the hydrometer sugar content content of of liquids.
liquids. Special Special glucometers glucometers are are used used for for sugar
measuring the the sugar sugar density density of of wines wines and and syrups.
syrups. measuring GLUCOSE - A A sugar sugar found found in in its its natural
natural state state in in many many GLUCOSE fruits, and and in in particular
particular in in grapes. grapes . fruits, Itis is made madeindustrially
industrially by by heating heating starch starch with with various various acids.
acids. It This produces produces first first dextrins dextrins and and then then an
an impure impure form form of of This glucose itself. itself. Two Two forms forms
of of glucose glucose are are used used commercially, commercially, glucose many
industrial industrial uses, uses, viscous and and semi-solid. semi-solid. Glucose
Glucose has has many viscous notably to to increase increase the the sugar sugar
content content of of wine wine and and beer. beer. It It is is notably also used
used in in the the manufacture manufacture of of syrup syrup and and jam. jam.
French French law law also that when when glucose glucose is is used used in in
this this way way the the fact fact must must lays down down that lays be indicated
indicated on on the the label. label. be When flour ftour is is kneaded kneaded
under under running running water, water, a a paste paste is is first first When
formed, thentben- the the starch starch having having been been gradually gradually
washed washed away away formed, a greyish greyish elastic elastic dough dough is is
produced. produced. This This is is the the gluten. gluten. It -- a is because
because of of its its gluten gluten content content that that flour fiour can can
be be made made into into is bread. Ordinary Ordinary bread bread contains contains
about about 7 7 per per cent cent gluten. gluten. bread. Gluten dougll dough, bread
bread and and biscuits. biscuits. pArNs, PAINS, pArfs, PÂTÉS, Brsclrrrs BISCUITS DE
DE Gluten GLUTEN - These These products, products, manufactured manufactured
especially especially for for cLUTEN
42',7

GNOCCHI GNOCCHI - This This dish, dish, made made from flour or semolina, semolina,
can be be prepared prepared in in two two ways, ways, either from from Chou
Choupaste(see paste (see DOUGH) made made with with milk, milk, or or from a a
semolina porridge. porridge. Gnocchi Gnocchi can can also also be be made made from
from potatoes. potatoes. These Tbese various various dishes, of of Italian ltalian
or or Austro-Hungarian Austro-Hungarian origin, can be be served hot hors-d'euvre
hors-d'œuvre or as a separate separa te course. course. as a hot Gnocchi a Gnocchi
au au gratin (Austro-Hungarian (Austro-Hungarian cookery) - Make a Chou Chou paste
paste (see (see DOUGH) in the the usual usual way, way, using using milk instead
instead of of water. water. When When it is ready add 50 g. (2 (2 oz., * t cup)
cup) grated Parmesan for every every 450 g. (l (1 1b.) lb.) paste. pas te. grated
Parmesan

GLUTEN - Albuminous Albuminous substance substance in in flour. fiour. GLUTEN

Poaching gnocchi gnocchi with with the the aid ofa of a forcing-bag forcing-bag
Poaching (Maison Desmeuzes) Desmeuzes) (Maison

427
GOAT GOAT
Put the paste in a large forcing-bag a round nozzle. forcing-bag with a round
nozzle. Force it through The gnocchi are are through by pressing pressing with the
hand. The dropped into a pan of of boiling salted water, each one the size of a
small walnut. ofa walnut. Simmer for a few minutes. As soon as the gnocchi gnocchi
rise to the surface surface of the water, drain them and put on a cloth to dry.
Place them in a gratin dish lined with a layer of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce.
Sprinkle sauce (se (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer with the the same same sauce. Sprinkle
grated pour on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in grated cheese on the
the top and pour a slow oven. oyen. poMMEs DE Potato Potato gnocchi gnocchi (German
(German cookery). cNoccHr GNOCCHI DE POMMES (2!a lb.) potatoes. Drain, and dry in
the rERRE TERRE - Boil | 1 kg. (2i oven. oyen. Rub them through through a fine
sieve. sieve. While still hot, add to this pur6e eggs,2 purée 2 whole whole eggs, 2
yolks, 50 g. g. (2 oz., I i cup) butter, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., li cups) cups)
flour. fiour. Season Season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix. Divide the
mixture pieces the size of of a walnut walnut and roll mixture into pieces into
balls. gently, pressing on them with the balls. Flatten them gently, back of of a
fork so that they they have ridges ridges along the top. Simmer in salted boiling
water. water. Drain, and place them in a dish in Iayers, layers, sprinkling grated
cheese cheese on each layer. Pour melted butter over and brown brown in the oven.
oyen. Gnocchi Gnocchi à la romaine romaine - Shake, through a dredger, 250 g. (9
oz.,llcups) oz., Hcups) semolina semolina into I 1 litre litre (lf (l i pints,
generous quart) boiling milk. Season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix cook
for 20 minutes. Mix well and cook Remove from the stove and and add 2 egg yolks.
yolks. Spread out evenly evenly on a moistened moisttned slab so that it is about I
1 crn. cm. @ (i inch) thick. Leave shapes. Leave to cool. Cut into shapes.
gnocchiinabuttered Putthe Put the gnocchi in a buttered dish dish lined lined with
with grated grated Gruydre Gruyère or Parmesan cheese. cheese. Sprinkle with the
the same cheese. cheese. Pour Pour melted butter over and bake in a slow oven.
oyen.
coBELEr Wide-mouthed drinking vessel which GOBLET. GOBELET - Wide-mouthed used used
to be made of silver or silver-plate. goblets are often Antique often exquisitely
exquisitely engraved. engraved. Small silver Antique goblets in French, though
though the are also also called gobelets in wine-tasters are more usual name is
tâte-vin tdte-vin (wine-taster). narne for them is DU GOBELET The goblet service.
SERVICE sERvIcE DU coBELET the French Tbe - At the

court, 'serving the was one the most most important one of the the goblet' was
ceremonies of of the royal household. The master master of the goblet, ceremonies
who was the head he ad functionary of the royal kitchens, was in sole chargé chargd
of the household bread, fruit and and linen for the royal table.
known in France France as the goujon de mer. mer .lt - Fish known It GOBY. GOBY.
GOBIE coslE to be found in all the oceans, oceans, and sorne some kinds are also
found delicate flesh, large rivers. This tiny fish, which has very delicate f1esh,
is in large gudgeon. usually eaten fried, like river gudgeon.
is

lf

Garnish for for certain certain meat dishes GODARD dishes served as as a - Garnish
second course, enties. (See GARNISHES.) course, and for poultry entrées.
GARNISHES.)

GODMAUGODIVEAU made.

Delicate forcemeat from which quenelles are

i
Goat Goat with kid kid

CHÈVRE - Goats are raised especially especially for dairy proGOAT. csivnn Goats'
meat, when the the animal animal is still too young young for duction. Goats'meat,
agreeable flavour fiavour although it is tougher tougher breeding, has an agreeable
than mutton. mutton. As As a rule, ru le, only only animals animaIs which which are
are old old and wornthan as nutritive nutritive as out by milking milking are
slaughtered. The meat is as out but its its smell smell is is disagreeable.
disagreeable. Goat Goat is is eaten in Spain, Spain, mutton, but Italy and in the
South of of France. France. In the the high mountains mountains in Italy goats'
goats' meat meat is drid dried in the open air; this is the bindenfleisch
bindenfieisch the Canton des Grisons, Grisons. Male goats' flesh fiesh can be eaten
eaten of the only when when the the animals animais are are very very young, young,
from from six six weeks weeks to to four only rnonths. months.

of this word is uncertain. Scheler suggests The etymology etymology of suggests

that it comes cornes from from the old French verb goder which means to make
godinettes. Lacam believes godinettes. Lacam believes that godiveau is make that
godivear is derived from old word godebillaux. He He says from the the old word
godebillaux. says that that formerly godebillaux godebillaux meant meant a a pie
pie filled filled with meat balls balls made made of with meat chopped veal and
biatilles béati/les (titbits) such as cocks' combs and cocks'combs kidneys, lambs'
sweetbreads, sweetbreads, etc., made into a a stew. Godiveru Godiveauforcemeat
different ways (see forcemeat can be prepared in different FORCEMEATS FORCEMEA TS
OR OR STUFFINGS, STUFFINGS, Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat). In addition to the the
recipes recipes given elsewhere, here here is is the the one grven Carême for this
forcemeat. given by Car€me I-A. À LA Godiveau with witb chives chives (Car6me's
(Carême's recipe). recipe). GODIVEAU Godiveau comveA.u A CIBOULETTE - 'Trim 450 g.
g. (1 (l lb.) lb.) fillet fillet of veal and cIBouLErrE and 675 675 g. (1+ (lt lb.)
suet. Chop the veal finely and mix in the fat. After ail all of it has been
chopped, add 4 teaspoons teaspoons spiced salt, a pinch ofit eggs. Chop for several
minutes. of nutmeg, and 4 eggs. 'Pound the remove from the mortar the godiveau in a
mortar, remove and place place it on ice or in a cool place for 2 hours. Divide the
mixture into into 2 2 parts parts and and pound pound each each part part
separately, mixture separately, moistening little little by little with pieces
ofwashed moistening of washed ice, each the an egg. egg. This will make the
godiveau godiveau very firm firm and size of an smooth. smooth. 'Put 'Put it in a
large large bowl bowl and pound the rest in the same same way, putting it in the
bowl when it is ready, with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) Veloutd
Velouté sauce (see (see SAUCE) and 1 tableand I fine. This mixture is is used used
like spoon chives chopped very fine. forcemeat.' forcemeat.' Carême goes on to
explain explain the rdle rôle played played by the ice in this Car6me preparation:
'Ice helps helps in in binding binding and and giving body to to the godiveau,
godiveau, 'Ice which is what gives it its desirable smooth softness.' softness.'
which

GODWIT. nmcsBARGE - Marsh Marsh bird, bird, also found along river banks GODWIT.
along river and near the sea shore, commonly called oyster-catcher or cricket-teal.
cricket-teal. The two two varieties, the the black tailed tailed godwit and the bar
tailed The godwit are found in Europe. In America America there are the large large
marbled godwit godwit and the small Hudsonian Hudsonian godwit. marbled recipes
given for woodcock woodcock (q.v.) (q.v.) can be applied to All recipes godwit.
godwit. GOÉLAND - Colloquial French French name na me for for large seagulls.
GOELAI\D fiesh of of this bird, which which is oily, leathery leathery and
unpleasant The flesh fiavour, used used to to be be eaten as as Lenten Lenten fare.
Its eggs eggs are are edible. in flavour, is prepared prepared in in the the same
same way way as as bustard, bustard, cooked cooked like It is duckling. domestic
goose or duckling. GOÉMON - Type of of seaweed. seaweed. GOEMON 428
GOAT'S BEARD. BEARD. BARBE-DE-Bouc BARBE-DE-BOUC - Wild salsify, of of which which
GOAT'S several varieties varieties are known. known. The tender shoots of of some
sorne are are several eaten like like asparagus, asparagus, the roots roots of
others are prepared like scorzonera (see (see SALSIFY). SALSIFY). scorzonera There
is is a variety of goat's goat's beard cultivated in Belgium Belgium There witloof,
which which in France France is called caUed endive. endive. caUed witloof, called
GOOSE GOOSE
GOGUFS GO GUES(Angevin (Angevincookery) cookery)-- Chop Chopfinely tinelyequal
equal quantities quantities
goose. any any of ofthe the culinary culinarymethods methodsapplied applied to to
the the common cornmon goose. preserved The Theconfit confitand andvarious
variousother otherspecialities specialitiesmade madeof ofpreserved goose goose of
of the the Toulouse Toulouse species species are are excellent, excellent, but but
the the most most liver, especially the is, of course, part this bird of delicate
delicate part of this bird is, of course, the liver, especially when anintensive
intensivecramming, cramming, coupled cou pIed with with total total
immobilisaimmobilisawhen an tion, tion, have have enlarged enlarged this this organ
organ to to the the state state of of complete complete fatty fatty degeneration.
degeneration. For For many many centuries centuries the the goose goose was was
considered considered the the best best of of geese' poultry. poultry. In In Paris,
Paris, r6tisseurs rôtisseurs principally principally sold sold roast roast geese,
years' hence hence the the name name of ofoyers oyers by by which which they they
were, were, for for many rnany years, described in their their statutes. statutes.
described in In In England England the the goose goose has has always always been
been greatly greatly appreciated. appreciated. goose, On On Michaelmas Michaelmas
Day Day it it was was the the custom custom to to serve serve roast roast goose,
prepared prepared in in the the traditional traditional English English way, way,
stuffed stuffed with with sage sage and and onions. on ions. This This tradition
tradition goes goes back back to to the the sixteenth sixteenth century century and
and Alfred Alfred Suzanne Suzanne in in his bis book book la la Cuisine Cuisine
Anglaise, Anglaise, described described its its origins origins as as follows:
follows: 'The 'The 29th 29th September, September, Michaelmas Michaelmas Day, Day,
is is the the anniversary anniversary of of a a great great naval naval victory
victory won won by by the the English English against against the the Spaniards.
Spaniards. Queen Queen Elizabeth Elizabeth was was at at table table when wh en the
the news news of of the the sinking sinking of of the the Spanish Spanish Armada
Armada was was brought brought to to her. her. was roast 'The 'The principal
principal dish dish that that day day was roast goose, goose, to to which which the
the Queen, Queen, it it was was said, said, was was particularly particularly
partial, partial, and and in in an an excited excited gourmandism, she she
decreed . . gourmandism, outburst outburst of of patriotism patriotism and
and . ... decreed that that this this glorious glorious occasion occasion be be
commemorated commemorated · by by serving serving roast roast goose goose on on
that that day day every every Year.' year.' prorequires and geese tough rather is
of adult The The flesh fiesh of adult geese is rather tough and requires proyoung
of young flesh of the fl.esh longed cooking, usually longed cooking, usually
braising, braising, but but the the where the France, where In northern northern
France, delicate. In goose is is tender tender and and delicate. goose is it is
south, it the south, than in appreciated than goose is is more common goose cornmon
more appreciated in the time during during for a a time cold for to cold expose the
customary to customary to expose the birds birds to tender. flesh tender. make the
the flesh winter, to to make winter, G6rard table, Charles Charles Gérard Alsace à
d table, I'ancienne Alsace In his his book book l'ancienne In wrote: wrote: has
turned it man has art of of man the art but the is nothing, nothing, but 'The bird
itself is bird itself 'The turned it results, a a produces marvellous marvellous
results, which produces an instrument instrument which into an into of fruit of
supreme fruit the supreme which the gieenhouse in in which living greenhouse of
living kind of kind grown.' gastronomy is is grown.' gastronorny gastronomy', of
gastronomy', fruit of gras is the'supreme is indeed indeed the Thefoie The foie
gras 'supreme fruit Toulouse, or Toulouse, Strasbourg or it is is in in Strasbourg
prepared as as it when especially wh especially en prepared is gosling, the bird is
as goose, young or a flesh of the but but the flesh of a young go ose, or gosling,
as the bird and a great despised, and not to to be be despised, is not old, is
months old, to 7 7 months up to called up caUed a great goose' like duck, young
goose, A young it highly. highly. A gastronomes rank rank it many gastronomes many
like duck, its underbill. pliability of underbill. of its by the the pliability
recognised by can be be recognised can the goose Stuff the A L'ALSACIENNE
L'ALSAcIENNE -- Stuff ors À l'alsacienne. OIE i l'alsacienne. Goose à goose Goose
pan-roast it in in and roasting it for Truss meat. sausage with with sausage meat.
Truss it for roasting and pan-roast it (q.v.) separately, braised sauerkraut uirth
Garnish butter. Garnish with sauerkraut (q.v.) braised separately, butter. with
juices added. sauerkraut with the sauerkraut Alternate the added. Alternate cooking
juices with cooking with sausages. poached Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages. and
poached bacon and pieces of lean bacon of lean pieces pour andpour vealstock stock
and andveal wine and white wine pan juices with with white the panjuices bilute the
Dilute goose. the goose. over the over

of of onions, onions, spinach, spinach, beet beet and and lettuce. lettuce. Season
Season with with salt salt and and leave leavefor for 12 12hours. hours. Next
Nextday daycook cookthe thevegetables vegetablesin inlard lard until until

are very very soft. soft. they are they Dice in weight weight to to the the mixed
mixed vegetables. vegetables. Dice fat fat bacon bacon equal equal in Cook Cook the
thebacon bacona a little, little, and and add add it it to to the the vegetables.
vegetables. Season Season with with pepper, pepper, salt salt and and allspice.
allspice. Add Add enough enough pig's pig's blood blood to to make a a thin thin
mixture. mixture. make Mix thoroughly and and wrap wrap in in thin thin pieces
pieces of of beef, beef, 20 20 cm. cm. Mix thoroughly (8 (8 inches) inches) long.
long. Secure Secure the the ends. ends. Simmer Sirnmer the the gogues gogues in in
salt salt water water for for 2f 2i hours. hours. Drain Drain and and leave leave
to to cool. cool. When the the gogues gogues are are quite quite cold, cold, slice
slice them them and and toss toss in in When on both both sides. sides. butter,
browning browning them them slightly slightly on butter, GOGUETTE - Old name name
foraflat for a fiat sausagemade sausage made from from highly highly GOGLJETTE-OId
spiced pork pork stuffing. stuffing. spiced

GOLD. GOLD. on OR - Precious Precious non-rusting non-rusting metal metal sometimes

sometimes used used in in certainpatés and the Middle Middle Ages Ages in in thin
thin leaves leaves for for wrapping wrapping ceftainpatis the roast birds. birds.
Gold Gold is is still still used used for for this tbis pulpose purpose in in the
the Far Far East. East. roast
HENRl - Plant commonly found in wild places, places, frequently frequently HENRI

GOOD KING KING HENRY HENRY lAllgoo4 (Allgood, English English mercury). mercury).
noNBONGOOD

is also also called caUed wild wild spinach. spinach. The The It is growing against
walls. It leaves are are cooked like like spinach. spinach. They They should should
be be cooked cooked in in two two leaves waters and and the the first, tirst, green
green and and bitter, should should be be thrown thrown waters away. The The young
shoots shoots are are sometimes sometimes eaten like like asparagus. asparagus.
away.

geese which are of geese GOOSE. oE OIE - All Ali the species species of are used
used as as food food GOOSE. wi/d goose. goose. in Europe are the issue of the wild
and In France two varieties of geese are raised, raised, the petite petite and
about 3 3 kg. goose (petite) the weighs about the grosse. The smaller goose @etite)
weighs attain fattening they attain (6i lb.) on average. After methodical fattening
(61 (ll lb.) are excellent excellent roasting birds. and are lb.) and the weight of
5 kg. (Il in any any way suitable for goose treated in can be be treated ose can
This This common go poultry, especially especially turkey. 5 kg. weighing 5
(grosse) is heavy bird, bird, weighing goose (grosse) is a a heavy The The big big
goose (22 to to 12 kg. kg. (22 l0 to to 12 (ll lb.) reaching 10 and reaching
average and (lI lb.) on the average on the 26t lb.) after after fattening. 2eb.)
Toulouse, around Toulouse, mainly around found mainly are found type are Geese of
this this type Geese of is The bird bird is basin. The in the the Garonne Garonne
basin. and in bred, and where are bred, where they they are goose is is a a goose;
the the Strasbourg Stasbourg goose Toulouse goose; the Toulouse usually called
called the almost its body body almost carries its This bird bird carries same
breed breed. . This species of the the same species of the drags on on the
'artichoke', drags called 'artichoke', its behind, behind, caUed perpendicularly;
its perpendicularly; process. The The skin skin covering covering fattening
process. ground even the fattening ground before the even before wattle, lappet, or
or wattle., a lappet, forming a slack, forming and slack, its is loose loose and
its breast breast is goose that is that is of goose variety of store. It It is is
this this variety fat store. a fat which constitutes a which constitutes d'oie.
confit d'oie. for the the confit of France France for used south-west of in the the
south-west used in made are made livers which which are provide the the livers
geese also also provide The The Toulouse Toulouse geese produced in in gras with
trtffies, produced with truffies, pdtis de de foie into famous pâtés into the the
famous foie gras and other other in Strasbourg Strasbourg and Landes, in the
Landes, Gers, the in the the Gers, Toulouse, Toulouse, in flesh, its tiesh, however
flavoursome flavoursome its This variety, variety, however parts parts of of
France. France. This by be treated treated by cannot be and cannot confit d'oie
d'oie and is making confit for making is used used only only for

(right)and goose femalego and Male(right) Male female ose

geese Toulousegeese Toulouse

429 429
GOOSE GOOSE
Gmseili l'ang1aise lnanglaise(English style).OIE omÀ AL'ANGLAISE r'.lNcrrusn - -
Stuff Stuff @nglishstyle). Goose goose with the goose with the the following:
following: the (2|lb.) Bake 1 I kg. kg. (2* unpeeled onions onions in in the
theoyen oven and and allow allow to to Bake lb.) unpeeled cool. Peel Peel and and
chop, chop, adding adding to to them them an an equal weight weight of of cool.
pressed crustless soaked and and pressed crustless bread. bread. Season with 1 lf
teaspoons soaked t teaspoons pinch of pepper, a salt, a a pinch grated nutmeg of
pepper, little grated a little nutmeg and and 3 3 tabletablesalt, (scant I cup)
spoons (scant cup) chopped chopped sage. sage. spoons Truss the goose and the goose
and roast roast in in the the oyen or on oven or on aa spit. Arrange Truss on a a
dish, dish, spoon spoon over over sorne some of of the pan juices, and the diluted
diluted pan on serve with with apple apple sauce, sauce, cooked cooked without
without sugar sugar or or only only very very serve slightly sweetened. sweetened.
slightly Ballottine and galantine of goose. BALLOTTINE, and galantine of goose.
BALLorrrNE, GALANTINE cALANTTNE Ballottine D'oIE -- Prepare Iike like Galantine
(see CHICKEN) Galantine of chicken chicken (see CHICKEN) D'OlE goose, fine using
boned goose, pork or fiue pork or chicken forcemeat, forcemeat, truffles, truffies,
pickled tongue tongue and ham cut and harn cut in in dice dice or or thin thin
strips. strips. Ballottine of goose is of goose is usually usually served served
cold, cold, the the Jiquor liquor in in Ballottine jelly. It which it it was was
cooked cooked being being made made into into jelly. It can can also also be be
wruch hot accompanied served hot accompanied by garnish. by a a gamish. served
Goose à I la la bourguignonne. OIE A LA oru À m BOURGUIGNONNE BouRGUTcNoNNE -Goose
Prepare as for Chicken d la (see CHICKEN). la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see
CHICKEN). Braised goose with gamishes. OIE with various various gamisbes. ore
BRAISÉE sRArsEE -- PrePrepare like (see TURKEY). like Braised turkey turkey (see
TURKEY). pare Goose à t la la chipolata. chipolata. OIE ore À A LA m CHIPOLATA
csporATA -- Prepare, panGoose roasted or or braised, braised, as as Turkey Turkey à
(see TURKEY). d la la chipolata chipolata (see roasted goose. CIVET Civet of of
goose. crveT D'OIE D'oE -- Prepare Prepare like (see like Civet Civet of of hare
hare (see Civet HARE) using goose cut using goose cut into into uniform uniform
pieces. HARE) Confit d'oie I -- Bleed goose, pluck and singe it d'oie 1 Bleed the
the goose, it and and Confit quite cold leave until until quite cold before before
cutting. cutting. Slit open the back comcomleave pletely, c1ean clean out out the
the bird bird and and remove remove the the liver, taking care care pletely, not to
(The Iiver to damage it. (The damage it. liver can can be used separately
separately for rnaking making not pdtis.) Divide terrines and and pâtés.) Divide
the goose into the goose pieces. Leave into 4 4 pieces. Leave terrines intact the
the bones bones connected connected to these pieces in order to prevent intact the
ftesh flesh losing losing its is shape shape too too much during cooking. the
goose, put Salt the of goose, earthenware put them into a large earthenware Salt
the pieces pieces of pot and leave in a a cold cold place for 24 hours. leave in
place for pot and When are thoroughly with salt, salt, take When they they are
thoroughly impregnated with them out, brush off the salt and wipe with a c1oth.
cloth. brush off them out, goose fat. Cook in fat. When the fat has has solidified,
the fat Cook in clarified c1arified goose cut small pieces, into a a deep deep pot,
with a it into into small pieces, put put into pot, moisten witb cut it few of
water, add a a muslin bag containing containing few tablespoons tablespoons of
water, and add several cloves cloves, and sorne some peppercorns, several cloyes
ofgarlic, a a few cloyes, pelPp(~rConlS and goose in until this is three and heat.
heat. Do Do not not put the pieces pieces of goose quarters I hour. quarters
melted. melted. Cook on on a a moderate heat for about 1 Test sure the goose Test
with with a a big needle needle to make sure goose is done. The juice clear, which
indijuice which which comes cornes out should be perfectly perfectly c1ear, cates
that the the cooking cooking is complete. cates that Drain Drain the the pieces of
goose and remove rem ove the carcase bones. Put Put a a thick thick layer of of the
fat in in which the goose was cooked, clarified clarified and strained, into a big
big earthenware earthenware jar, jar, glazed on the completely solid, put put in
the pieces the inside. inside. When When the the fat is completely of of goose, so
so that that they they do not not touch touch the the wall wall of of the the jar.
jar. Cover with warm warm goose fat. fat. Leave Leave for for 2 days. days. Strain
Strain into into the pot some sorne hot fat to seal any When this this is is well
weil congealed, congealed, pour pour a layer of of lard any holes. holes. When over
over it, il, and and when when this this is is set, set, put put a a circle circ!e
of of greaseproof greaseproof on on top, top, pressing pressing it it down down to
to make make it it adhere. adhere. Cover Coyer the the top of of the the jar jar
with with a a double double thickness thickness of of paper and and tie tie with
with string. Confit Confit d'oie d'oie prepared in in this way way will will keep
for for a a very very long long time. can also also be canned, canned, the the cans
cans being being placed in in boiling boiling time. It 1t can water. water. Confit
and rub rub Confit d'oie d'oie II II - Cut Cut the the goose into quarters and
whole whole surface surface with with spiced spiced salt, prepared by mixing I 1
kg. (2t lb.) g. (i Üoz.) oz.) saltpetre, 4 crushed cloves, 2 pounded lb.) salt,
salt, 6 6 e. bay bay leaves, leaves, a a good good pinch pinch of pounded pounded
thyme. thyme. Put Put the the pieces pieces of ofgoose goose into in to an an
earthenware earthenware pot, pot, glazed glazed on on the in this this the inside.
inside. Cover Coyer with with spiced spiced salt. salt. Leave Leave to to steep
steep in seasoning 24 hours. hours. sealsomnlg for for 24 Take Take the pieces
pieces of of goose goose out, out, shake shake off off surplus surplus salt, salt,
and and
piecescarefully. wipethe the pieces carefully.Put Putthem theminto potin intoaabig
bigpot inwhich which wipe goosefat fathas hasbeen leftto been!eft tomelt
meltslowly. slowly. Cook Cook on onlow low heat heatfor for goose It hours. hours.
I~ Testthe the piecesof goosewith ofgoose with aathick thickstraw, straw,which
which should should Test penetrate theftesh flesh easily.Drain quarters, put Drain
the putthem thequarters, theminto into theearthenwarejar. earthenware jar.
Strainthe thehot hot fat fatover overtbem, them, making makingsure sure the meat
meat is is covered covered completely. completely. When quite cold Whenquite
coldand the andthe the goose fat fat has hasbecome become congealed, pour aalayer
congealed, pour layerof oflard, goose lard, about about (t inch) I cm. cm. (~ inch)
thick, thick, over over the the surface. surface. The The lard lard is isdenser 1
denser in in consistency and and this this operation will will ensure ensure that
that the theconfit consistency confitwill wlll long time. keep for for aa long
time. Store in place. in aacool, cool, dry dry place. keep pieces of jar for When
taking goose out taking pieces of goose out of of the the jar for use, When
use,care care must be be taken taken to seetbat tosee that the the remaining
remaining pieces pieces are must are completely completely covered by by the the
fat. fat. covered Confit d'oie d'oie is is one one of of the the specialities
specialities of of Languedoc Languedoc and Confit and Gascogne, and and an an
essential ingredient for garbure (q.v.), essential ingredient (q.v.), for the
Gascogne, the garbure the most most characteristic characteristic of of Béarn B6arn
dishes. dishes. the 'Leg of preserved goose,' says Simm of preserved 'isaadish
Simin Palay, 'Leg Palay, 'is dish which which is always always ready ready should
aa relative or guest arrive or aa guest is arrive ununexpectedly. An An old old
country country saying saying assures assures us: expectedly. us: 'Lou qui qui a a
coéche coiche d'auque d'auque a a hourrup hourrup de 'Lou de bi, bi, parent ou
embita parent ou besi' besi' Que pot embUa which means: means: 'He who goose leg
who has has a leg and a goose and a a little 'He little wine wine can can safely
safely invite invite relatives or or neighbours.' neighbours.' relatives In
Languedoc Languedoc confit confit d'oie d'oie is is used preparation of usod for In
for the the preparation of (q.v.). It cassoulet (q.v.). It can can also also be
cassoulet be served served on its own, on its own, hot hot or or cold, cold,
garnish. Here with or or without without garnish. Here are with are sorne some
recipes for serving recipes for serving it it hot: hot: Confit d'oie, d'oig Basque.
Basque. CONFIT coNFrr D'OIE Confit o'om À LA BASQUAISE A LA BAseuArsn -- Heat Heat
quarters of the quarters goose in of goose in their their own the own fat, garnish
with fat, drain, drain, and and garnish with cipes cooked cooked in in a a mixture
mixture of cèpes of oil goose fat oil and and goose fat in in equal proproportions,
and and mixed mixed with with chopped parsley parsley and portions, and garlic.
Confit d'oie d'oie à i la la béarnaise b6arnalse -- Heat the Confit pieces of the
pieces goose in of goose in their own own fat, fat, and and drain. drain. Garnish
in slices their Garnish with with th thin slices of of raw raw potato fried in
goose fat in goose potato fried fat and and sprinkled with with 1 I tablespoon
tablespoon parsley mixed with a chopped parsley chopped garlic. a pinch of of
pounded garlic. green cabbage. Coffit d'oie witb with green Confit cabbage. CONFIT
coNFrr D'OIE D'oE AUX AUx CHOUX cHorx vERTs VERTS as described described in in the
recipe for for - Prepare green cabbage as Braised cabbage cabbage (see CAB Braised
BAGE). When CABBAGE). When nearly done, done, add add a a fat. Arrange the piece
piece of goose coated with the fat. piece of goose of goose on a a dish, dish,
surround surround with on with the the cabbage, garnish with cabbage, and and
garnish boiled potatoes. jJV,.«L~}""'" Confit d'oie witb with kidney kidney beans.
beans. CONFIT D'oE AUX coNFrr D'OIE Ar.x HARICOTS HARrcors BLANcS Add the goose to
pieces of BLANCS the pieces of goose to beans beans cooked cooked à d la la - Add
(see BEANS), BEANS), simmer bretonne (see simmer for a few minutes minutes and
serve in a timbale. Confit d'oie d'oie with Confit with lentils. CONFIT coNFrr
D'OIE D'orE AUX Ar;x LENTILLESLENrrLLss - Cook I litre (lf 1 (l i pints, generous
quart) lentils with the usual lentils with usual aromatics. maties. Drain, and
simmer with a few tablespoons tablespoons thickened brown veal stock. Add the
pieces pieces of brown of goose about 25 minutes before serving. Heat gently with
the pan covered. à la landaise. CONFIT Confit d'oie with peas, peas, or i Confit
coNFrr D'OIE D'orE AUX AUx pETITs PETITS pors, POIS, Drr DIT A À re LA r,tNDltg
LANDAISE - Remove the the surplus fat covering a piece of confit d'oie. covering
Melt Melt some sorne goose fat in an earthenware earthenware casserole casserole
and fry in it 8 small small onions and (3 tablespoons) diced and 2 tablespoons (3
diced Bayonne ham. Add I 1 litre (lf (Li pints, generous quart) freshly shelled
peas. peas. Cook for 5 minutes. Sprinkle in I tablespoon shelled cook for for a a
few moments, stirring stirring with with a a wooden spoon, Rour, cook flour, spoon,
j cup) water moisten moisten with with I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons,
scant scant! water and seaseaand I 1 teaspoon sugar. sugar. Add a bouquet son with
a little salt and garni garni consisting of parsley, parsley, chervil, tarragon and
bay leaf. Cook with with a lid lid on on for for 40 minutes. Put Put in in the the
piece piece of of confit Cook and finish finish cooking, cooking, with with the the
casserole covered, for d'oie and d'oie 25 minutes. minutes. 25 à la la sarladaise
sarladaise - Prepare as as Confit d'oie d'oie I à la la p6rigourdine i Confit of
saut6ed sautéed potatoes a garnish of Confit d'oie d la biarnaise with a 430

*
GOUFFE GOUFFÉ
(sliced (sliced raw raw and and fried fried in in goose goose fat) fat) mixed mixed
with with slivers slivers of of
truffies. truffies. Goose daube Capitole. Capitole. oIE OIE EN EN DAUBE DAUBE
cAPIToLE CAPITOLEStuffthe Goose en en daube - Stuffthe goose goose with with a a
fine fine forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with withfoie gras and and diced diced
foie gras truffies. Truss and and braise braise in in the the usual usual way. When
When the the goose goose is is truffies. Truss nearly done, strain strain the the
braising liquor liquor through a a fine fine strainer. strainer. nearly done,
Remove Remove trussing trussing string and put put the the goose back back into
into the the pan pan with with 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) small mushrooms
mushrooms, g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) stoned stoned ,250 g. blanched olives, and and 250
250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) small small chipolata chipolata sausages sausages
blanched tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Pour Pour in in the the braising
braising liquor liquor and and finish finish cookcookin a a low low oven. oyen. ing
in à la la flamande. flamande. on OIE A À LA LA FLAMANDrFLA,\1ANDE - Braise Braise
the the goose Goose i in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Garnish d à la la
flamande flamande (see (see GARNISHES). NISHES). Boil down the the braising
braising liquor, liquor, strain and and pour pour over the goose. FRITTONS,
cRATToNs GRATTONS D'oIE D'OIE Goose frittons or grattons. FRITToNS, Name for for
the residue residue which which remains remains in in the the pot pot after after
goose goose fat fat melts. melts. Minute fragments fragments of of flesh, flesh,
which which are are trimmed trimmed off off the quarters of of goose go ose while
while preparingconfit preparing confit d'oie,are d'oie, are sometimes sometimes
added to this residue. residue. The frittons are are drained, drained, pressed to
extract all the the fat fat them, seasoned seasoned with salt and then left to get
cold. cOlntamexi in them, contained Frittons Frittons are eaten as hors-d'euvre.
hors-d'œuvre. They can be pressed into a block by moulding them in a bowl or other
receptacle. receptacle. Goose giblets and pinions. pinions. ABATIS, ABATIS,
AILsRoNso'orrAILERONS D'OIE- Prepare Prepare in any of the ways given for turkey
giblets giblets (see (see GIBLETS). GIBLETS). geese are Goose livert. livers. FoIEs
FOIES D'oIE D'OIE - Livers of of roasting roasting geese can be prepared of all as
for prepared as for livers livers of ail other poultry. poultry. They They can
Madeira, saut6ed with mushrooms, in on skewers, sautéed cooked on in Madeira,
garnish as a garnish with truffies, pilaf, risotto, etc. They can be used as entrie
in different ways, for eggs eggs prepared in for ways, or with various various
entrée dishes. They are also used for preparing d gratin forcemeat (see
Roast Rosst goose. goose. on OIE ndn RÔTI - This This method method of cooking is
is suitable sui table only only for for a a very very young young and and tender
tender goose. It can be roasted in the the oven oyen or or on on a a spit, spit,
and and should be left a little underdone. Roast goose Roast goose d à I'anglaise
l'anglaise is is stuffed stuffed with with sage sage and and onions. onions.

paration, 1J"'''''Vll, which which is is made made in in Alsace Alsace and and in
in Germany, Germany, can can be be found in in shops, shops, cooked cooked ready
ready for for use. use. It It is is eaten eaten cold, cold, like Iike smoked smoked
ham, ham, and and is is also also a a garnish garnish for for sauerkraut.
sauerkraut. Sfuffed Stuffed goose goose nocks. necks. cous cous D'oE D'OlE FARcIs
FARCIS - This This makes makes an an excellent excellent hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre
and and is is eaten eaten as as a a sausage. sausage. It It is is prepared prepared
in in various various regions of of south-western south-western France France when
when confit confit d'oie d'oie
is is being being made. Bone Bone the the necks, necks, leaving a good deal deal
ofthe of the skin skin covering covering the the breast breast attached attached to
to them. them. Using the the flesh flesh taken taken off off the the bones, bones,
make make a a forcemeat, forcemeat, adding adding some sorne minced minced pork,
pork, mixed mixed with with a a small quantity of of goose goose liver liver and
and diced diced truffies. truffies. Season Season and and stuffthe necks. Cook Cook
them them in in goose fat, fat, and and keep keep in in earthenearthenware ware
jars jars as as pieces pieces of of confit confit d'oie. Goose Goose tongues.
longues. LANGUEs LANGUES o'on D'OIE - In In B6arn, Béarn, the the tongues tongues
of ofbig big geese, which are are used used for for making making confit, confit,
are are cooked cooked on on a a geese, which

Snoked Smoked bieast breast of of goose. goose. PoITRINE POITRINE D'oIE D'OIE
FLTM6E FUMÉE - This This prepre-

FORCEMEATS).
geese, can be prepared in liver of offattened Foie gras, that is, Iiver fattened
geese, prepared in (See FOIE FOIE GRAS.) GRAS.) and cold. (See innumerable ways,
both hot and pArf FROID FRoID D'oIE - Using goose meat preGoose pit6, cold. PÂTÉ
(see PATE, Cotd pdtis). pdtd, cold (see pare like like Chi,cken pâté, pare pArE
CHAUD goose Prepare, using goose D'oF pit6, hot. cs.luo D'Op: hot. PÂTÉ Goose pâté,
- Prepare, Iiot pdtis).pdti, hot (see PA PATE, rneat, like liki Chicken Chicken
pâté, Ineat, TÉ, Hot pâtés). goose meat cut in D'oIE Rlco0rs D'OIE Use rago0ts.
RAGOÛTS Goose ragoûts. Goose Use goose meat eut in uniform pieces. garnished in in
various ways. They can ragofits can be garnished These ragoûts with celeriac, with
d la la chipolata, chipolata, with d la la bourgeoise, bourgeoise, à be made made à
be RAGOOT.) chestnuts, olives, etc. (See RAGOÛT.) olives, etc. turnips, chestnuts,
LA BONNE BoNNE o'ore À A LA RAGoOT D'OlE la bonne bonne femme. RAGOÛT i la Goose
rago0t à Goose pieces. into uniform uniform pieces. medium-sized goose into FEMME
-- Cut a a medium-sized FEMME pieces into put the into a a sauté saut6 pepper and
put the pieces and pepper with salt salt and Season with Season (3 tablespoons)
butter clarified butter tablespoons) clarified pan in 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3
in which which 2 pan a carcarand a (or goose a big big onion onion and goose fat)
Add a heated. Add fat) have been been heated. (or goose and pieces of and the the
quarters. Brown the pieces of goose Brown the rot, cut cut into into quarters. rot,
vegetables well. • ...,J';...,L<~uJ'...,,, weil. in 2 sprinkle in goose are 2
browned, sprinkle are weil well browned, of goose When the the pieces of the fry,
stirring stirring the and fry, flour and tablespoons) flour tablespoons (3
tablespoons) garlic, moisten moisten of garlic, clove of Add a a smaU small crushed
crushed clove ragofrt on onthefire. Add ragoût (} pin pint, scant 2 2 add 4 4 dl.
dl. (i and add glass of white wine wine and of white half a with half a glass with
t, scant garni, and for 40 40 minutes, minutes, and cook cook for Add a a bouquet
garni, cups) stock. stock. Add pan covered. the pan keeping the placed over Trim
them them a bowl. bowl. Trirn over a pieces in in a a sieve sieve placed Drain the
the pieces (9 oz.) g. (9 small pan. Add oz.) small Add 250 250 g. put into cleaned
pan. and put into the the c1eaned and (9 oz.) lean bacon bacon eut cut oz.) lean in
butter, 250.g. (9 butter, 250.g. lightly tossed tossed in onions, Iightly onions,
(2i lb.) I kg. (2* lb.) and 1 lightly fried, fried, and pieces, scalded and lightly
scalded and into small small pieces, into add fat from from the the sauce, add
potatoes. Skim quartered potatoes. Skim offsurplus fat nll:lTfPT,>ti (see PURÉE)
purde (see PUREE) (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Tomato purée 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 goose. Put for a a moment, moment, the stove stove for pour it Put
on on the the goose. and pour it over over the and stirring, for for without
stirring, hot oven, pan and a hot oven, without in a cook in cover the the pan and
cook coyer 45 minutes. minutes. 45

Goose Goose i à la la mode mode de de Vis4 Visé, also also called caJled i à
I'instar l'instar de de Vis6 Visé (Flemish OIE A À ul LA MoDE MODE DE DE vls6,
VISÉ, A À L'INsrAR L'INSTAR DE DE (FJemish cookery). cookery). on yet started vls6
Cook a young young goose goose that that has has not not started laying, laying, in
in VISÉ - Cook white white stock stock spiced spiced with with 2 2 bulbs bulbs of
of garlic. Drain, Drain, cut eut into into pieces, sprinkle sprinkle with with
goose goose fat, fat, and and simmer in in a a saut6 sauté pan pan with with the
lid lid on. on. with (see flour Velouti sauce Prepare Prepare a a Velouté sauce
(sec SAUCE), SAUCE), mixing flour with goose the roux goose fat fat for for the
roux (q.v.) (q.v.) and and using using the the liquor liquor in which which the the
the velouti goose goose was was poached. poached. Keep Keep on on simmering
simmering the velouté for for an an hour: should be hour; it it should be rather
rather thick. thick. Make Make a a liaison liaison with with 4 4 egg yolks for
Chicken Chicken fricassie as for fricassée (see (see CHICKEN). Strain Strain the
yolks as good tableI good a few few tablespoons add to sauce, add to it it a
tablespoons cream cream and 1 tablegarlic cooked (see PUREE), Garlic purie spoon
Gar/ic purée (sec PURÉE), using using the the garlic cooked with the with the
goose. goose. Heat sauce. Heat Drain the Drain the pieces pieces of goose dry and
and put put into into the the sauce. serve heaped on a dish. well and and serve
well
green in colour cRosEILLE GOOSEBERRY. GROSEILLE GOOSEBERRY. Large berry, berry,
green in col our - Large gooseberry is is variety of of gooseberry one variety In
French French one red. In with red. or streaked with or preparain the is used
maquereau because d maquereau called groseille à because it it is used in the with
mackerel. is served served with sauce which, which, traditionally, is tion of a
sauce tion m2lcken:1. grown in Normandy in Normandy In France, France, gooseberries
are mainly grown In and other other northern districts. and

grill. grill.

made of of a sweet sweet made Name of of a GORENTLOT (pâtisserie) GORENFLOT

@itisserie) - Name This cake cake mould. This in a a hexagonal mould. baked in
dough baked baba (q.v.) dough baba the middle middle of of in the Maison
Bourbonneaux in the Maison was first made at the was its creator, creator, by its
Gorenflot by It was was called called Gorenflot century. It nineteenth century. the
nineteenth play la Dame la Dame Dumas' play hero of of Alexandre Alexandre Dumas'
memory of of the the hero in memory in de Monsoreau. Monsoreau. de
(see CHEESE). Italian cheese cheese (see CHEESE). GORGONZOLA -- Italian GORGONZOLA

(q.v.) to wine is is garbure (q.v.) red or or white white wine to which which red A
garbure GOUDALE GOUDALE -A Biarn, says says that that a a en Béarn, his la /c
Cuisine Cuisine en Palay, in in his added. Sim Simin added. in Palay, garbure. When
When goudale is to every every garbure. conclusion to traditional conclusion is the
the traditional goudale the eaten, the have been been eaten, of this this broth
broth have the bread bread and and vegetables of the red pr white white cup of of
red pours into into his plate a generous cup diner pours diner plate, of the plate,
bottom of at the the bottom it with with the soup left at wine, mixes mixes it
wine, it. and drinks drinks il. and remedy to be be a a sovereign sovereign remedy
goudale is in Béarn B6arn to is considered considered in The goudale The proverb is
is to to be be believed: believed: for illness, illness, if if a a local local
proverb for pla adoubado, 'Goudale pla adoubado, 'Goudale medecin.' la pocho deu
deu medecin.' de la 'Tiro un un escut escut de 'Tiro the doctor's doctor's ('A
weil-made well-made goudale keeps a coin from the CA pocket.') pocket.') greatest
chefs of the the chefs of one of of the the greatest was one Jules Gouffé Gouff6
was GOUFFEGOUFFÉ - Jules nineteenth century. century. nineteenth
431 431
GOUGELHOF GOUGELHOF
Born Born in in Paris Paris in 1807, 1807, he had a talent for cookery cookery from
his early youth. His father, an established established pastry-cook pastry-cook in
the Saint-Merri taught him him the the basic basic princinles princioles of Saint-
Merri quarter, quarter, taught cookery. It was then that Car€me, Carême, hearing of
the talerr. talell. .f vi the the young young Goutr6 Gouffé - who at 17 was already
showing promise in in the the decoration decoration and presentation presentation
of set pieces pieces - took him into into his kitchens in the Austrian Embassy
Embassy in Paris. Car6me Carême turnod him into into a model craftsman, craftsman,
a celebrity celebrity of of his day. turned him In ln 1840, 1840, Jules Gouff6
Gouffé set up on his own in the Faubourg Faubourg Saint-Honor6; Saint-Honoré; his
his restaurant restaurant became became one one of of the the best best in Paris.
back to work in 1867, 1867, Paris. In In 1855 he retired, but went back encouraged
eider and encouraged by by those those famous gourmets, Dumas the elder Baron of
epicures epicures offered him the post of Baron Brisse. This pair of head head chef
chef at at the the Jockey Jockey Club. It It was at this time tirne that Gouff6
Gouffé began on his his Livre Livre de cuisine, a magnificent magnificent book book
which which began work work on deserves of cookery, cookery, side side by by side
side with deserves a place place in in every every library library of the Carême,
Plumerey, Plumerey, Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Emile Emile the works works of Car6me,
Bernard, Bernard, Escoffier, Escoffier, etc. etc. A few lines lines from the the
master's master's preface preface will suffice suffice to show show A few the of
his his work: work : the importance importance of 'Having, from my my earliest
earliest youth, youth, embarked upon a career career of of cookery, cookery, I 1
saw much, much, observed observed much, practised much mu ch in every every sense
of of the the word. word. I 1 am not one one of of those those who who declare
declare that that French French cookery cookery - that part part of of our national
national heritage of which which we we have have reason reason to to be be proud
proud - is is lost today today and that that it will never never recover. recover.
The The good and true true things never never die. No will doubt doubt there there
may may be be periods periods of of decline, decline, but but sooner or later, la
ter, with with hard hard work, work, intelligence intelligence and and good good
will, there must must be be a r@overy. recovery. 'If, thanks thanks to to the the
reforms reforms and and the the methods methods which I 1 propose, that in in a a
few few years' years' time time everyone, everyone, whatever whatever his his pose,
I 1 find find that is eating eating as as well weil as he he possibly possibly can;
that, that, on rank in in society, society, is rank the one one hand, hand,
household household cookery cookery is is at last last being being carried out the
with care, care, economy economy and and comfort; comfort; and and on on the the
other other hand hand the the with grande grande caisine cuisine goes goes forward
forward under under progressive progressive conditions, conditions, that good good
taste taste and and brilliance brilliance which which is is so appropriate
appropriate to to with that with of enlightenment enlightenment and and luxury
luxury like our own; then then I 1 a century century of a 1 shaH have have truly
truly attained attained the the goal goal which which I1have have set set myself
myself .... shall ..I shall feel feel myself myself well weil paid paid for for all
ail my my pains.' pains.' shall ln 1872, 1872, Jules Jules Gouff6 Gouffé published
pu blished le le Livre Livre de de pdtisserie, pât isserie, then then ln le Livre
Livre des des conserves. conserves. le In 1875 1875 le le Livre Livre des des
soupes soupes et et des des potages potages was was published, published. In point
of of a whole whole lifetime lifetime devoted devoted to to This was was the the
crowning crowning point This remarkable work work in in the the field field of of
cookery. cookery. remarkable Gouffé died died at at Neuilly Neuilly n in 1877.
1877. Gouff6 gougire is cold, but it may The more usual way to serve a gougère
servod hot as hors-d'œuvre. also be served hors-d'euvre.

GOUGNETTES GOUGNETTES (Lot cookery) Type of doughnut. doughnut. Pre- Type pare
do',.h from 500 g. (18 oz., 41 pare a d0"ol, flour, 5 eggs, 75 g. 4l cups) fiour,
(3 o2.,6 g.(* oz., 6 tablespoons) sugar and (1 oz.) dried and 10 l0 g. dried or
compressed yeast. Leave to rise for about 1 I hour. Roll out out the the dough
fioured table. table. Shape flattened dough on a a floured dough small thin loaves,
and dough into into small thin loaves, them into and cut cut them into 5-cm. (2-
inch.) (2-inch.) pieces. Fry the pieces in very hot fat. fat. Drain the gougnettes
when they are crisp and evenly evenly browned. Sprinkle with sugar.
(sometimes GOULASCH (Hungarian (Hungarian cookery) - Goulasch (sometimes GOLJLASCH
called gulyas) is a kind of beef stew made wi th diced onions of beef with and
seasoned seasoned with with Hungarian paprika. and paprika. Several Several kinds
kinds of goulasch are are made in in Hungary, and and recipes recipes for them are
for them given under BEEF. BEEF. Goulascb soup (Hungarian (Hungarian broth).
broth). couI,AscH GOULASCH (romcn) (POTAGE) Goulasch Dice coarsely coarsely 350 350
g. (12 (12 oz.) beef beefsirloin, trimmed and with with ail Dice sirloin, trimmed
all fat removed. Brown in butter in a a casserole with 2 tablewith 2 (3
tablespoons) finely chopped onion. Season with spoons (3 Add a little cummin and a
salt and a large pinch paprika. Add crushed clove of garlic. small crushd weil
browned all aU over, sprinkle 1 tableWhen the meat is well sprinkle I and let it
cook for I 1 to 2 minutes, but spoon flour fiour over over it. Mix Mix and spoon
(2| pints, 2t 11 litres (2i 2i pints) pints) without allowing allowing it to to
brown. brown. Add l| without consommé. Bring to the boil and cook slowly for about
3 consomm6. 3 hours. hour before before serving, serving, add to the broth 2 2
diced potatoes. potatoes. An hour An croûtons fried in butter. butter. Serve with
with bread bread cro0tons Serve

GOURD. couRGE COURGE - Name given given to to many species species of the GOLJRD.
Cucurbitaceae famrTy family including inc1uding summer summer and autumn
pumpCucarbitaceae marrows, various various summer kins (yellow gourds), vegetable
marrows, cushaw, Quaker Quaker or Japanese squashes squashes squashes, Canada or
cushaw, (or pumpkin).

GOUGELHOF or or GOUGELHOPF GOUGELHOPF - See See KUGELHOPF. KUGELHOPF. GOUGELHOF

/j

GOUGÈRE (Burgundian (Burgundian pastry) pastry) - This This pastry, pastry, which
which is is GOUGDRE said to to have have originated originated at at Sens, Sens, is
is made made not not only only in in Burgundy Burgundy said but also also at at
Troyes, Troyes, in in Champagne, Champagne, and and in in other other districts
districts of of but France. France. The dough. dough. Place Place in in a a thick,
thick, flat-bottomed fiat-bottomed saucepan saucepan The 21 dl. dl. (scant (scant!
pint, generous generous cup) cup) water, water, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., oz., I !
cup) cup) 2+ f pint, As soon soon as as the the water water is is boiling, boiling,
butter, and and I1 teaspoon teaspoon salt. salt. As butter, g. move the the
saucepan saucepan away away from from the the flame fiame and and add add 200 200
g. move (7 (7 oz.,lfr oz., li cups) cups) sieved sieved flour. fiour. Mix, Mix,
then then dry dry the the dough dough over OVE'r a a Chou paste paste high flame,
flame, stirring stirring it it with with a a wooden wooden spoon, spoon, like like
Chou high (see (see DOUGII) DOUGH) until until it it comes cornes away away easily
easily from from the the sides sides of of the saucepan. saucepan. the pan from
from the the stove stove and and beat beat into into the the mixture mixture Remove
the the pan Remove 5 whole whole eggs, eggs, one one by by one, one, 100 100 g. g.
(4 (4 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) finely finely diced diced 5 of white white pepper.
pepper. Gruyère cheese, cheese, and and a a pinch pinch of Gruydre Making the the
cake. cake. With With a a tablespoon, tablespoon, scoop scoop out out pieces pieces
of of Making dough, each each the the size size of of an an egg. egg. Put Put them
them straight straight into into a a dougb, oneagainst against the theother other
in in a a circle. circle. Smooth Smooth the the buttered pie pie dish, dish, one
buttered ofa a spoon. spoon. circle on on top top and and round round the the
inside inside with with the the back back of circle Brush with with beaten beaten
egg. egg. Sprinkle Sprinklewith with very very finely finely diced diced cheese.
cheese. Brush Bake in in a a slow slow oven. oyen. Bake
432

Different varieties varieties of ofgourd: gourd: Different Pumpkin, squashes,

squashes, vegetable vegetable marrow Olarrow Pumpkin,
GRAPE GRAPE
Gourds are one of the the oldest vegetables vegetables known to man Gourds although
it it is is doubtful doubtful if if any any of of those those grown grown today
could be although identified with with the the original original species. species.
The The word word gourd is identified North America America for for the the
decorative decorative inedible reserved in in North reservd Winter and summer
squash squash as well weil as pumpkin are variety. Winter variety. grown on on a a
very large large scale. scale. Winter Win ter squash can often be used grown of
pumpkin. place of in place GOURILOS - Gourilos Gourilos are are the stumps stumps
of of endive. When When fully GOURILOS grown and tender, they make a a delicately
flavoured vegetable. They can be prepared prepared d à la la grecque as an hors-
d'œuvre; hors-d'euvre; or as They butter or cream, in gravy, fried, gilled etc.
vegetable in butter a vegetable and wash the stumps. stumps. Boil Boil them in salt
water Method. Trim and Method. until tender. tender. until Drain and leave to cool.
Dry them and cook according to Drain the following recipes.

pastry-cooks and other and other multitude of of cooks, cooks, confectioners,

pastry-cooks rely turn, rely in their their tum, food, who, who, in diversely named
named purveyors of food, kinds. all kinds. needs on on workers of of ail of their
their needs for the the satisfaction of to a a wealth wealth of of gives rise,
everywhere, to and everywhere, This gives rise, always always and This mind cannot
cannot of which even the most lively mind economic activity, ofwhich (Physiologie
du du value.' (Physiologie the value.' nor assess the the extent extent nor
calculate the go,frt.) goût.)

Gourilos in in butter. butter. GOURILOS BEURRE - Blanch Blanch 12 Gourilos AU

BEURRE c,ouRlt-os AU Place in a frying pan with 50 g. gourilos. Place g. (2 oz., i
I cup) butter and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) water.
Cover for and Cover and cook for minutes. Arrange 40 minutes. butter in which
Arrange in a dish and pour on the butter the)' have been cooked, they cooked, to
which has been added a tablespoon water or white stock. GouriJos cream. GOURlLOS
Cook as as for Gourilos in cream. coIJRILos À A LA r,c, CRÈME cnilrls - Cook (ol
pint, J Gourilos in butter. When they are ready, lj dl. dl. (i ready, add add Ii
cup) hot fresh Arrange the the cup) minutes. Arrange fresh cream. cream. Simmer for
for 8 minutes. gourilos in a dish and pour on the cream. Endive gourilos, gourilos.
GOURILOS Blanch the the gourilos, Endive gourilos. FRITs - Blanch couRlI,os FRITS
drain, in oil, oil, Steep them them in drain, leave to chill and and dry dry them.
them. Steep to cool, cool, chili lemonjuice, lemon juice, salt and pepper for 25
minutes. with a a minutes. Coat Coat them with thin with fat. Drain. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with thin frying batter and fry fry in in deep deep fat. batter and salt.
Gourilos gravy, bone-marrow sauce or or velout6 sauce Gourilos in in gravy, bone-
marrow sauce, sruce, velouté other sauces. vEr.ourf Droerrr, AU AU VELOUTÉ sauces.
GOURILOS AU JUS, A LA t,l, MOELLE, couRll.os AU rus, À Proceed as (q.v.), using
using or celery celery (q.v.), as in recipes recipes for cardoons cardoons (q.v.)
or any of these sauces. ofthese sauces. Grilled gourilos gourilos. GOURILOS Blanch
the the gourilos Grilled gourilos. couRlI.os GRILLf.<; cnnlfs -- Blanch and juice
as gourilos. Grill Grill and soak as for for Fried gourilos. soak in in oil oil and
and lemon juice them under a from time with oil oil from time flame, moistening
moistening them them with a low Bame, to time. time. Gourilos Blanch the the
grecque. GOURILOS Gourilos à A LA rl GRECQUE cnsceur -- Blanch i la grecque.
couRlr,os À gourilos (see gourilos and grecque (see prepare as for Artichokes
Artichokes à d la la grecque and prepare as for HORS-D'ŒUVRE). HORS-D'(EUVRE).

t
-

The gourmand (Collection of 1.-1. T. de Lusse) <caunT^""7')l?T1,L*ut

gourmet was never used used was never GOURMET the word word gourmet Formerly, the
GOURMET -- Formerly, nowadays. in which is is current current nowadays. inexact
sense in the sense which the inexact gourmef, whose was courtier-gourmetcourtier-
gourmetThe whose full full title title was The gourmet, gourmand, in a connoisseur
connoisseur piqueur, piqueur, was in other other words words a not a a gourmand,
was not with the the of good things, sworn official, charged with rather a a sworn
official, charged things, but but rather of good were dut y of and spirits.
spirits. Gourmets-piqueurs Gourmets-piqueurs were wines and duty of tasting tasting
wines once part of Nowadays they they are are organised organised a confraternity.
confraternity. Nowadays once part of a into into syndicates. syndicates.

GOURMAND, couRcouRMAND, GOURGOURMANDISM. GOURMAND, GOLTRMAND, GOURMANDISM. MANDISE

Many people take the word 'gourmandism' to 'gourmandism' to be be word take the
Many MANDIsE synonymous 'gluttony'. synonymous with with'gluttony'. Brillat-Savarin
this interpretation. interpretation. of this is sternly critical of sternly
critical Brillat-Savarin is 'Authorities gourmandise have have comcominterpret
gourmandise 'Authorities who thus interpret who thus pletely gourmandise which
combines the the which combines pletely forgotten forgotten social social
gourmandise elegance of and the the delicacy delicacy of Rome and luxury of of Rome
of Athens, Athens, the the luxury elegance of France. superwith discernment,
discernment, supergourmandise orders France. Such Such gourmandise orders with
vises judges with with with enthusiasm, enthusiasm, judges savours with vises with
with wisdom, wisdom, savours profundity. well be be precious attribute which may
may weil attribute which profundity. It It is is a a precious esteemed purest
delights. of our our purest delights. it is is the the source sourcr of for it
virtue, for esteemed a a virtue, 'Gourmandise . .. habitual passionate, rational
and habituai rational and is a a passionate, 'Gourmandise. . . is preference
preference for the palate. for ail that flatters flatters thepalate. all that
'Gourmandise gives who gives every man man who of excess; excess; every
'Gourmandise is enemy of is the the enemy himself no longer longer gets drunk, the
risk risk of of no runs the drunk, runs himself indigestion indigestion or or gets
being gourmand. being a a true true gourmand. 'Delicacy gourmandise, for part of f
ot (fr iandise) is of gourmandise, is an an essential essential part 'Delicacy
(friandise) delicacy to delicate delicate applied to kind of of discrimination
discrimination applied delicacy is is the the same same kind tries and ... titbits
pastries . . .' .' preserves, pas sweets. and sweets titbits such such as as
preserves, From gourpoint of of gourview, the the advantages advantages of of view,
the social social point From the mandism gourmandise,' continues continues 'It is
is gourmandise,' innumerable. 'It mandism are are innumerable. Brillat-Savarin, tes
the pole to from pole to transport from 'which stimula the transport stimulates
Brillat-Savarin, 'which pole indeed pickles, savouries, savouries, indeed pole
ofwines, spices, pickles, sugar, spices, of wines, spirits, spirits, sugar,
provisions melons. and melons. provisions of down to to eggs eggs and kind, down of
every every kind, 'It to the the industrious industrious livelihood to 'It is
affords aa livelihood this which which affords is this 433 433

GOURNAY GOURNAY -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

pAIN DE GRAHAM Wholemeal bread bread DE GRAHAM cRAHAM -- Wholemeal GRAHAM BREAD.
BREAD. PAIN This bread made flours. This bread cereal flours. mixture of of
different different cereal made from from aa mixture was Graham. American,
Silvester Silvester Graham. in 1840 1840 by by an an American, was invented
invented in
GRAIN It weighed former tirnes. times.It weighed in former Small weight weight used
used in GRAIN -- Small approximately g. approximately * g.

ta

GRAMOLATES - Sherbet made from from Sherbet made or GRAMOLATAS GRAMOLATASGRAMOLATES

or (See ICE aa granité (q.v.) mixture. ICES.) graniti (q.v.) ICE CREAMS AND ICES.)
CREAMS AND mixture. (See GRAND monarchy, the the French monarchy, Vnifnn -- Under
the old old French Under the GRAI\D MAÎTRE grand de grand maître, souverain maître
maitre de also called called souverain who was was also maitre, who l'hôtel roi was
chief royal kitchens. kitchens. ofthe theroyal of ail all the the officers officers
of l'h6tel du duroiwas chief of GRAND servedwith with Brownsauce, sauce,served
SAUCE -- Brown VENELJR SAUCE GRAhID VENEUR ground (See SAUCES, Brownsauces.)
sauces.) groundgame game and SAUCES, Brown venison.(See andvenison. GRANITÉS No
Italian Italian meringue meringueis is sherbet. No Type of of sherbet. GRAI\ITES --
Type added ordinarysherbet sherbet as is is done done with with ordinary mixture,
as added to to this this mixture, mixture. (SeeICE ICES.) AND ICES.) mixture. (See
ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND GRAPE. vine. RArsrN - - Fruit Fruit of ofthe the vine. GRAPE.
RAISIN The ismore moreor orless lesswoody woody grape bunch, which is Thestem the
grape bunch,which stemof of the according tains aa!ittle freeacid acidand
andtannin. tannin. littlefree species, con contains according to to the thespecies,
The essensubstance, an anessenresinoussubstance, The seeds containaatannin,
tannin,aaresinous seedscontain tial playlater laterin inthe the into play whichcome
comeinto and volatile volatile acids acids which tial oil oil and development
development of ofthe thebouquet. bouquet.
GRAPEFRUIT
pulp is The pulp place by is held held in in place by very very thin thin
membranous membranous cell cell The (hardly i per per cent walls (hardly! cent of
of the the weight weight of of the the fruit) fruit) so so thin thin that that
walls juice is just about the weight weight of of the the juice is just about equal
equal to to that pulp; that of of the the pulp; the it consists consists mainly
mainly of proportions which ofsugar sugar in in proportions which vary vary
accordaccordit ing to to_ the type of plant and the year, sometimes rising as high
ing the type of plant and the year, sometimes rising as high as 23! 231per cent of
of sugar sugar in in weight, weight, corresponding corresponding to pir to 15 15
per as per cent cent of alcohol in in volume. volume. In good year In a year most a
good most choice choice types types cent of alcohol give comparable comparable
figures. figures. give
plunged into into aa wash washof of boiling boiling water water and and ash, ash,
then then dried dried in plunged in the sun sun on on their their stalks. stalks.
the Sultanas. Large Large fruit, practically seedless fruit, practically seedless
and and with Sultanas. with aa muscat flavour. flavour. muscat Currants. Mainly
Mainly from from the the Greek Greek islands. islands. Small, Small, seedless,
seedless, Currants. washd with with ash ash and and stripped stripped from from
their their stalks. stalks. washed grapes are Dried grapes are used used in in
cookery, pastry-making and cookery, pastry-making and Dried confectionery. They
They can can still still be be used used to to make make wine wine after
confectionery. after being soaked. soaked. being jelly. CONFITURE Grape jeUy.
coNrrruRE DE DE RAISINS jelly II RArsrNs -- Like Like Currant Currant jel/y Grape
II (see JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES) JELLIES) using g. (9 (9 oz., using 250 250 g.
generous oz, generous (see cup) sugar sugar to g. (18 (18 oz.) to 500 500 g. grape
juice. oz.) grapejuice. cup) pnr,rprEMous$ - Citrus GRAPEFRUIT. PAMPLEMOUSSE fruit
the the size size of of a a GRAPEFRUIT. - Citrus fruit very big pale yellow yellow
in big orange, orange, pale in colour. colour. The The Chinese Chinese eat eat this
very this fruit at at the the beginning beginning of of a a meal meal as as an an
apéritif, ap6ritif, and and this this fruit custom was was copied copied by by the
the Americans Americans when when they they acclimatised acclimatised custom the
fruit fruit in in their their country. country. the Cut the the fruit fruit in in
half half horizontally horizontally with with a a very very sharp Cut sharp knife
knife (a special special knife knife is is used used for for this purpose), make
this purpose), make a (a a circular circular incision around around the the central
central cone cone and and remove remove il. it. Slide incision Slide the the knife
into into each each section section of of the fruit to pulp from to loosen the the
pulp from the knife the skin surrounding surrounding il. it. Sprinkle Sprinkle with
with fine fine sugar. sugar. It It can skin can be flavoured with liqueur and and
served served on on ice. ice. flavoured

q-fu*.

Chasselas grapes (Fauchon. Phot. Nicohs) Chasselas grapes (Fauchon. Phot. Nicolas)

Dessert Dessert grapes. grapes. RArsrNs RAISINS DE DE rABLE TABLE - A A few few
varieties vanetIes of of grapes grapes listed listed according according to to
their their season: season: earliest earliest first. first.
flesh flesh juicy juicy and and sweet; sweet; Saint-Jacques, Saint-Jacques, with
with transparent transparent yellow yellow

Preparing I air e) Preparing grapefruit grapefruit (C (Claire)

Angevine is the the earliest earliest variety variety of of all, aH, fruit fruit
pale pale yellow, yellow, Angevine is

slightly slightly musky musky flavour; flavour; Chasselas Chasselas is is the the
most most popular popular culticultivated vated variety variety and and it it alone
alone accounts accounts for for more more than than half half production French
(there French production (there are are numerous numerous types types of of
Chasselas Chasselas grape) ; Admirable; ; Alphonse is deep blue blue in in grape);
Admirable; Dattier Dattier; Alphonse Lavallie Lavalfée isdeep colour colour and and
cultivated cultivated extensively; extensively; Oeillade Oeillade is is a a deep
deep blackish blackish violet; de Hambourg Hambourg is is purplish-black purplish-
black with with plump plump violet; Muscat Muscat dp oval oval fruit; fruit; Gros
Gros Vert, Vert, Servant, Servant, Olivette Olivette blanche, blanche, Muscat
Muscat d'Alexandrie aU white white grapes. grapes. d'Alexandrie are are all The The
great great dessert dessert grape grape producing producing regions regions of of
France France are are Vaucluse, Gard, the the valley valley of of Vaucluse,
Bouches-du-Rh6ne, Bouches-du-Rhône, H6rault, Hérault, Gard, the Garonne, and the
Moissac region particularly the Garonne, and the Moissac region which which is is
particularly famous famous for for its its golden golden Chasselas. Chasselas. For
For the the varieties varieties of ofgrapes grapes used used for for making making
wine wine (cipages) (cèpages) see see VINE. VINE. Keeprng Keeping grapes. grapes.
The The system system used used at at Thomery, Thomery, for for the the Chasselas
Chasselas grape, grape, consists consists of of cutting cutting off off the the
bunch, bunch, with with a a piece of the the main main stem stem attached,
attached, before before it it is is quite qui te ripe, ripe, and and piece of
soaking soaking the the thick thick stem stem in in a a bottle bottle half
halffilled filled with with water. water. Dried RAISINS sEcs SECS- Gathered
Gathered when when perfectly perfectly ripe, ripe, Dried grapes. grapes. RArsrNs
and dried in the principal and dried in the sun. sun. The The principal commercial
commercial types types in in France are: France are: Raisins. Raisins. Mainly
Mainly from from the the Midi. Midi. Gathered Gathered very very ripe, ripe,
434 434

fruit, after; Cardinal fruit, ripens ripens very very soon soon after; Cardinal is
is a a red red grape grape with with a a

rue rue is infused.

GRAPPA GRAPPA - Piedmontese marc marc brandy in which a sprig of

GRASSHOPPER. GRASSHOPPER. SAUTERELLE SAUTERELLE - Orthopterous, Orthopterous,

herbivorous herbivorous insect, insect, often often constituting a plague plague to
to agriculture. GrassGrasshoppers hoppers are greatly greatly relished relished by
by African African natives natives who who eat eat them them in in the the most
most diverse diverse forms, fonus, boiled, boiled, roasted, roasted, grilled,
grilled, s4lted, saJted, dried and and reduced reduced to to a a paste. paste.
Moses Moses permitted permitted the the Hebrews Hebrews to to eat eat four four
different different species, species, described described in in Leviticus.
Leviticus. GRASS GRASS SNAKE. SNAKE. couLEUvRE COULEUVRE - Non-poisonous Non-
poisonous snake. snake. The The common common grass grass snake snake is is
sometimes sometimes eaten eaten in in France France under under the the name name
of of anguille anguille des des haies haies (hedge (hedge eel). eel). It It is is
prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as Eel Eel (q.v.). (q.v.).

GRATER. RÂPE - Utensil Utensil with with a a rough rough surface, surface, pierced
pierced with with GRATER. nApr holes, holes, used used to to reduce reduce to to a
a coarse coarse powder powder certain certain vegetables, vegetables, fruits fruits
or or other other commodities commodities (cheese, (cheese, nutmeg, nutmeg,
almonds, almonds, etc.). etc.). GRATERON GRATERON - Common Common French French
term tenu for for rennet. rennel.

GRATINtenu means means the the thin thin crust crust formed formed on on the the
sursurGRATIN - The The term face face of ofcertain certain dishes dishes when when
they they are are browned browned in in the the oven oven or or
under under the the grill. grill. It It is is extended extended to to denote denote
certain certain methods metbods of of preparation. preparation. Thus of macaroni
macaroni au au gratin, gratin, sole sole au au gratin. gratin. (See (See Thus we we
speak speak of

CULINARY CULINARY METHODS.) METHODS.)

GRENADINS
1

Gratin languedocicn languedocien - Half cook in in oil 4 peeled, peeled, sliced

Gratin aubergines, seasoned seasoned with salt and pepper, pepper, and and 12
halved aubergines, seasoned tomatoes. tomatoes. Arrange Arrange them in alternate
alternate layers in a seasoned l baking dish. Coyer with a mixture of breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and baking dish. Cover with a mixture ChOPPed garlic garlic and and
parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with olive oil. Begin chopped cooking on on the the top
top of of the the stove, stove, then then bake bake slowly slowly in the oven oyen
cooking is well weil browned. browned. until the the top top is until

and elegant elegant with with a a are dry dry and Graves are The white wines wines
of Graves to are an excellent excellent accompaniment to delicate bouquet. They are
south seafood, seafood, shellfish, shellfish, grilled fish, and subtle sauces. In
the south more and lighter, lighter, more of the region, the white wines are
sweeter and akin to Sauternes wines.

GRATTONS or or GRATTERONS GRATTERONS - Names given in certain certain GRATTONS

regions of of France, France, especially especially in the the south-west, south-
west, to the residue residue regions of the the melted melted fat of pork, goose or
turkey. It is is sometimes sometimes of lca lied frittons, and and is is salted
salted while still hot, and and eaten cold as as calledfrittons, an hors-d'euvre.
hors-d'œuvre. an must not not be be confused confused with rillettes, which which
are Grattons must with rillettes, Grattons by pounding pounding in a a mortar a a
mixture mixture of fat and lean prepared by pork which which has has been been
slowly pork slowly cooked beforehand. ! Grattons Grattons (speiality (speciality of
the Ile A cRArroNs À tre Bourbon)_ Bourbon). GRATTONS of the L'îLE DE DE rl LA
nfumou RÉUNION (lm (îLE nounroN) BOURBON) - Take the skin from the l'lt,u of a a
young pig, leaving leaving on back of fat. Cut on it 2 cm. (i inch) of fat. back it
into into l0-cm. lO-cm. (a-inch) (4-inch) squares. the fat without touching
touching Scorethefatwithout squares. Score it the skin skin with with criss-cross
criss-cross lines, lines, making making little squares about the 8 mm. mm. (* (1
inch) inch) across. Put the a pan with with in a of skin in the pieces of across.
Put 8 sorne melted melted fat. fat. Leave them to for 3 3 to 4 4 to cook cook very
slowly for Leave them l some hours. When When the the skin is tender raise the and
transparent, transparent, raise tender and hours. skin is heat and and cook for a
pieces of the pieces of until the 40 minutes, minutes, until a further further 40
cook for heat 1 skin like swell up up like They should should swell become crisp.
crisp. They bubble up up and and become skin bubble fritters. spoon pan with a
perforated spoon from the the pan with a fritters. Remove Remove them them from or
put them table salt. salt. with table dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with thern in in a a
dish. or skimmer skimmer and and put This uncovered. be cooked cooked uncovered.
This dish dish should always be should always
1

Grayling Grayling

resemblfish resemblGRA YLING. OMBRE - Rare freshwater fish Rare freshwater olrsne
COMMUN corr{rvrtnqGRAYLING. more ing and more its bigger bigger and by its it
differs differs by which it from which ing trout, trout, from fin of of dorsal fin
brilliant an enormous enormous dorsal snout, an scales, smaller smaller snout,
brilliant scales, bluish-grey coJour. tinged sometimes tinged are silvery, silvery,
sometimes Its sides sides are colour. Its with spots. dark spots. with dark pink or
purple and flecked with and flecked or purple with pink The of thyme. thyme.
flavour of has a a slight slight Bavour and has very delicate delicate and The
flesh flesh is is very It (q.v.). prepared like like trout trout (q.v.). It is is
prepared

GRA VEN CHE - Fish nI y in mainly in found mai family found the salmon salmon
family of the GRAVENCI{E - Fish of Lake it is is which it with which resembles the
the féra It closely Lake Geneva. Geneva. It closely resembles fira with often
Theféra has lighter and lighter curved back back and has a a more more curved
confusd.Thefdra often confused. coloured coloured scales. scales. The Its the féra.
than the gravencfte is much smaller smaller than is usually usually much The
gravenche fira.Its is fairly flesh less fiavour. flavour. much Jess but has has
much delicate but flesh is fairty firm firm and and delicate Ali used for for may
be be used river trout trout may forfdra and and river All recipes recipes suitable
suitable forféra gravenche. gravmche. (See (See FÉRA, TROUT.) FERA, TROUT.) GRA VES
- Les gravelly sandy and and gravelly name of of the the sandy is the the name Les
Graves Graves is GRAVFSterritory the département The hills hills of the the
Gironde. Gironde. The dipartement of that lies lies in nthe territory that and
yield excellent wines. plateaux of excellent wines. region yield of this this
region and plateaux The strip of of occupy a a strip also occupy of Bordeaux
Bordeaux also The Graves or Graves Graves of Graves or land, (9 miles) to the
parallel to the running parallel wide, running km. (9 miles) wide, land, about
about 15 15 km. Gironde and Langon. Langon. Bordeaux and between Bordeaux Gironde
between The Their and lively. lively. Their full-bodied and The red red wines
Graves are are full-bodied wines of of Graves very and the the of truffies trufres
and the aroma aroma of evokes the very delicate delicate bouquet bouquet evokes 1
perfume of the resin of the nearby pine Like Médoc, M6doc, forests. Like perfume of
the resin of the nearby pine forests. the wines. has sorne some outstanding
outstanding wines. the region region has Apart prunier cru uu Haut-Brion,
classified classifiod premier Apart from from Château Chdteau Haut-Brion, in 1953
in 1953 were classified classified in wines were the Graves Graves wines in 1855,
1855, most most of of the (decree follows: (decree of is as as follows: The
classification 1958). The classification is l8 October October 1958). of 18
1

GRECQUE - Dishes grecEte should of Greek Greek should be beof (A LA) d la la

grecque Dishes à LA)GRECQfJE (À origin practice this is this is preparation, but in
practice but in of preparation, method of origin in in their their method seldom
dish that aadish happens that it sometimes sometimes happens Though it case. Though
seldom the the case. called Greek is of of Greek really is menu really restaurant
menu grecque on on a a restaurant la grecque d la called à origin, given to of to
dishes dishes of is given the name name is not the than not more often often than
origin, more French French origin. origin. Among la d la grecque are Artichokes à
arc Artichokes Ia grecque d la dishes called called à Among the the dishes grecque
prepared vegetables prepared other vegetables (see ARTICHOKE) and other grecque
(see ARTICHOKE) and in in the the same same way. way. GREEN GAGE. yellowishwith aa
yellowishPlum with nsNE-cLAuDE -- Plum GREENGAGE. REINE-CLAUDE green n, lightJy
fruit of the thefruit side of the side red on on the with red green ski lightly
tinted tinted with skin, exposed (See PLUM.) PLUM.) sun. (See to the the sun.
exposed to GREENHOUSE, madeof of Buildingmade sERRE - - Building HOTHOUSE. SERRE
GREENHOUSE, HOTHOUSE. glass vegetables heat.The The vegetables inartificial
artificial heat. plants are raised in glass where are raised where plants or plants
glass have thanplants lessflavour flavour than have less under glass cultivated
under or fruit fruit cultivated grown grown in air. in the the open openair.
GRENACHEItalian g renache is theItalian from the isderived derivedfrom The word
grenache GRENACIIE - Theword word TheGrenache Grenache 'large seeds'. seeds'. The
granaccio which means'large which means word granaccio grape du theCôtes Cdtesdu
stock of ofthe thevine vinestock of the grape accounts for much much of accounts
for Rhône Mediterranean Franceand andthe theMediterranean south of ofFrance ofthe
thesouth Rh6ne wines winesof basin. sweetwines. wines. unfortified sweet
straight,unfortified make straight, to make It is is used usedto basin. It The
areall allGrenache Grenache Roussillon are ofRoussillon appellations of The best-
known best-known appellations wines. Maury, Banyuls,Maury, theseare areBanyuls,
ofthese importantof The most most important wines. The Côtes-d'Agly, Rivesaltes.
Cdtes-d'Agly, Rivesaltes. GRENADIER ofthe the inFrance Francebecause becauseof
namedin thus named Fish thus GRENADIER -- Fish shape GrenaFrenchGrenaofaaFrench
reminiscent of isreminiscént head,which whichis its head, ofits shape of dier's an
40 (16inches) and long,and inches)long, 40cm. cm.(16 than moreth It is isnever
nevermore cap.It dier's cap. its poachod,with halfwithhalfserved poached,
Itisisserved isdelicate. delicate. It white flesh fleshis its white melted (see
BUTTER,Compound BUTTER,Compound butter(see d'h6tel butter Maite d'hôtel melted
Maitre butters); /a sauces;àdla (hotor varioussauces; withvarious cold)with orcold)
boiled(hot butters\;boiled boulangère, rings. potatoesand andonion onionrings.
withsliced sliced potatoes boulangire, with GRENADINSveau) cut (noixde veau)cut de
of veal(noix slicesoffiIlet of filletofveal Smallslices GRENN)INS- Small in
areinterlarded interlarded whichare orrectangles rectangles which trianglesor
oftriangles inthe theshape shapeof with andbraised. braised. lardingbacon baconand
bestlarding with best Braised DEVEAU vEAUBRAISÉS rnusfs- grenadins. GRENADINS
cRENADINS DE vealgrenadins. Braiscdveal Using thickescalopes. escalopes.
narrowthick cutnarrow of veal,cut under-fillet ofveal, filletor orunder-fillet
Usingfillet Flatten thin themwith withthin studthem gently, trim them,and andstud
trimthem, Flattenthem themgently, strips pork. orsalt saltpork. baconor oflarding
lardingbacon stripsof 435 435

White (W\ White (W) Châteaux Communes or (R\ or Red Red (R) Chdteaux Communes
Bouscaut Cadaujac W W and and R R Cadaujac Bouscaut Carbonnieux Léognan W and R R W
and L6ognan Carbonnieux Chevalier (Domaine de) Léognan W and R W and R Chevalier
(Domaine de) L6ognan Villenave-d'Ornon Couhins W Villenaved'Ornon W Couhins Fieuzal
Léognan R R L6ognan Fieuzal Haut-Bailly Léognan R R L6ognan Haut-Bailly Talence R 1
La Mission-Haut-Brion R La Mission-Haut-Brion Talence Talence R La R Talence Tour-
Haut-Brion La Tour-Haut-Brion Martillac La W W and and R R Martillac Tour-Martillac
La Tour-Martillac Laville-Haut-Brion W W Talence Laville-Haut-Brion Talence
Malartic-Lagravière Léognan W and R W and R L.6ognan Malartic-Lagravidre Léognan
Olivier W andR R Wand L6ognan Olivier Pape-Clément Pessac R R Pessac Pape-Cl6ment
Smith-Haut-Lafite Martillac R R Martillac
1
1 '·

Smith-Haut-Lafite

1
GRESILLER GRÉSILLER

Above : Grilling pan for (Larousse) Gilling pan for meat meat (Larousse) Above:
Below: EJectric (Nrcolas) Electic toaster toaster (Nicolas) Below:

(l"a Carpe. Grills (La Carpe. Phot. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Grills

Brown in in butter, (or bacon butter, fresh fresh crackling crackling (or bacon
rind), a mediumBrown rind), a sized onion, onion, a a carrot carrot cut cut into
into thin slices, and and the the trimmings trimmings sized thin slices, of the the
veal. grenadins fiat Lay the veal. Lay the grenadins pan and flat in the pan and
brown of in the brown them lightly. Coyer, gently on Cover, and and cook cook
gently on a a low low flame for 15 15 lightly. ftame for minutes. minutes. ({ pint,
Moisten with with 2 2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) cup) white white wine. Moisten pint,
scant wine. Boil Boil down the almost completely, completely, and a little the
juices juices almost and add add a little water. water. Bring Bring to the again,
coyer, cover, and a slow slow oven the boil boil again, and bake bake in in a oyen
for for about 45 minutes, from time 45 minutes, basting basting from time to to
time. time. grenadins and Drain the the grenadins and lay Strain the Drain lay them
them on on a a dish. dish. Strain the juices and pour a few juices and pour a few
tablespoons tablespoons over over the the grenadins. grenadins. Brown Brown in in
the the oven, oyen, basting basting frequently. frequently. Dilute Dilute the the
cooking cooking juices juices in in the stock or consomm6. Scrape sides the pan pan
with with clear clear veal veal stock or consommé. Scrape the the sides pan of stir
the Strain of the the pan and and stir the fragments fragments into into the the
gravy. gravy. Strain through sieve. Remove through a a fine fine sieve. Remove fat
fat and and boil boil down down if if necessary. necessary. Pour Pour over over the
the grenadins. grenadins. Serve Serve braised braised veal veal grenadins grenadins
with with all ail the the garnishes garnishes suitable suitable for veal or for
veal veal chops, chops, escalopes, escalopes, fillet fiUet of of veal or
fricandeaux fricandeaux (q.v.). (q.v.). Grenadins Grenadins are, are, in in fact,
fact, smally'icandeaux. smallfricandeaux. Among Among the the garnishes garnishes
best best suited suited to to this this dish dish are are bouquebouquetidre, glazed
carrots, tière, bourgeoise, bourgeoise, glazed carrots, braised braised celery,
celery, braised braised jardinlire, endive, endive, chicory, chicory,
spinach,/ermiire, spinach,fermière, jardinière, braised braised lettuce, lettuce,
macidoine, macédoine, nivernaise, nivernaise, green green peas, peas, printaniire,
printanière, pur6e purée of of fresh fresh or or dried dried vegetables,
vegetables, quartered quartered artichokes, artichokes, or or artichoke artichoke
hearts. hearts. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Poultry Poultry grenadins.
grenadins. cRENADTNS GRENADINS DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - The The term term grenadin
grenadin includes includes slices slices of of white white meat meat of of large
large poultry, poultry, especially especially turkey. turkey. This This dish dish
is is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as Braised Braised veal
veal grenadins. grenadins.

GRIDIRON, GRILL. GRIr,I.. GRIL cRrL Kitchen implement implement with a long
GRIDIRON, - Kitchen history. It It is a contemporary contemporary of of the spit.
The cooking cooking ofmeat of meat history. on a a spit is is far far older than
preparation of foodstuffs in than the preparation on earthenware or bronze
containers. gridiron was one one of of the first implements used The metal gridiron
by our our remote ancestors ancestors for cooking cooking meat. meat. GRIGNON -
Piece Piece of of dry dry bread, GRIGNON bread, baked baked very very hard, which
which can (grignoter). The name be be nibbled (grignoter). na me grignon is also
given to the
end crust of a long or round loaf. It is also called quignon. of a quignon.

GRILLARDIN who, given by by the French to the chef chefwho, GRll-LARDIN - Name
given in in large restaurants, is concerned entirely with the grilling grilling
(U.S. of various various types of of food. (U.S. broiling) broiling) of

GRILLETES GRll-LETES - Old name name for for thin thin slices slices of of fresh
fresh pork pork fried in butter butter or or fat.

GRrILING GRll-LING (U.S. (U.S. BROILING). BROll-ING). GRTLLADE GRILLADE - Method

Method of cooking food by putting putting it it on a gridiron gridiron over over
embers, or, in modern modern cookers, under under a grill. grill. In In former
former times grilling grilling was was done done on an open wood or charcoal
charcoal fire. Nowadays, Nowadays, food food is is grilled grilled by by gas gas or
or electricity. electricity.
GRILSE. GRILSE. sAUMoNEAU SAUMONEAU - Name Name for a young young salmon that that
has has been been only only once once to to sea. sea. Before Before that that the
the salmon salmon is is called called a a parn. parn. All Ali methods methods of of
preparation preparation given given for for salmon (q.v.) (q.v.) are are
applicable applicable to to the the young young fish. fish.

GRESILLER GRÉSILLER - To To shrink shrink or or shrivel shrivel by by heating.

heating. The The real real meaning meaning of of the the word word gresiller
grésiller is is to to patter. patter. It It is is applied applied also also to to
foodstuffs foodstuffs which which in in cooking cooking make make a a pattering
patte ring sound sound like like falling falling hail. hail.
sauce sauce made made of ofthe the yolks yolks of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs,
eggs, oil oil and and vinegai, vinegar, seasoned seasoned with with mustard.
mustard. To To this this mixture mixture add add capers, cap ers, chopped chopped

GRIBICI{E GRffiICHE - Cold Cold sauce sauce served served with with cold cold fish.
fish. It It is is an an oilv oily

GRIMOD GRIMOD DE DE LA LA REYNIDREREYNIÈRE - Famous Famous gastronome, gastronome,

born born in in Paris Paris in in 1758, 1758, died in in 1838. 1838. His His
father, father, who who was was Farmer Farmer General, General, was was himself
himself the the son son of of a a pork pork butcher. butcher. Grimod Grimod de de
la la Reynidre, Reynière, barrister-at-law, barrister-at-Iaw, did did not not
devote devote much much time time to to his his profession. profession. He He
preferred preferred sessions sessions at at the the table to sessions sessions in
in the the Palace Palace of of Justice. Justice. The The first first edition
edition of of table to his his Manuel Manuel des des Amphityons Amphitryons came
came out out in in 1808, 1808, and and the the series series Almanacs Almanacs des
des Gourmands Gourmands were were published published between between 1803 1803 and
and
1812. 1812. These These books books have have since since been been republished
republished several several times times and and form form an an integral integral
part part of of every every gastronome's gastronome's library. library. 'Grimod
'Grimod de de la la Reynidre,' Reynière,' says says Car6me, Carême, 'was 'was
familiar familiar with with the the ancien ancien rigime, régime, and and lived
lived through through the the horrors horrors of of the the Revolution. Revolution.
After After the the reign reign of of terror, terror, he he considered considered
it it both both necessary as necessary and and wise wise to to write write his his
Manuel Manueldes desAmphitryons, Amphitryons, so soas

gherkins, gherkins, parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon, tarragon,
and and whites whites of of hardhardboiled boiled eggs eggs cut cut into into short
short matchsticks. matchsticks. (See (See SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Cold sauces.) sauces.)
436 436
GUINEA FOWL GUINEAFOWL
to instruct instruct the the new new rich rich in the the conventions conventions
and proprieties proprieties which they they must must observe. observe. which 'His
Almanac Almanac des des Gourmands Gourmands is full of flashes of gastronomy he had
had some sorne good good influence on the norny and and wit. wit. Doubtless,
Doubtless, he science of cookery, but he played no part in the rapid proproscience
ofcookery, gress gress which which modern modern cookery cookery has has made made
since the renaissance renaissance of the the art.' art.' of de la Reynidre Reynière
set set up a a 'jury of tasters', tasters', who who Grimod de of academic academic
certificate certificate called ldgitimation légitimation to awarded a kind of
various dishes. various
same This bird should not be confused confused with that from the same is region
called ganga-cata, Pyrenées, which is ganga-ca ta, or gelinotte des Pyrenies,
equally equally good to eat, but smaller in size. proAll Ali these these birds have
very good flesh. But they have a pronounced nounced pine pi ne flavour, flavour,
the leg leg meat meat in particular, particular, so normally the legs are not
served. species, including America there In ln North North America there are are
many many species, s har p - t ail e d ous e, sharp-tailed s age gr b lue gr ous e,
sage rufe d gr ouse (partridge), ruffedgrouse (partridge), blue grouse, grouse,
grouse grouse and prairie prairie chicken. chicken. It is U.S.A. and in U prize'd
in England and This game is much rnuch prized .S.A. It is (hazel gelinotte (hazel
as gelinotte it is known as where it France, where scarcer scarcer in in France, is
known quality than the of much poorer quality grouse or hazel hen), a bird of
American grouse. British or American in the be cooked in grouse is roasted but but
may be is best best roasted Young grouse same way as hazel grouse (q.v.). (Roman
cookery). MARINE rtrn.ls MARINÉ grouse (Roman cookery). TÉTRAS Marinated grouse
Marinated After having wine. After white wine. good marinade using white marinade
using 'Make a a good 'Make marinate te it for 3 or 4 days. skinned and cleaned out
the bird, marina a good mirepoix it, adding a fat. Braise Braise it, in bacon fat.
'Bard it in garni a bouquet garni (q.v.) lightly cooked in butter, a of vegetables
Iightly (q. v.) of and the marinade. (q.v.), veal stock and all fat fat from remove
liquid, rem in its its cooking cooking liquid, 'Allow to cool cool in 'Aliow ove
ail can be this to c1arify clarify it, then boil it down to the point where it can
the sliced is turned out, put the mould. When it is put in a a border mould. the
grouse in the middle. meat of the of B. Farrep.) toast.'(Recipe 'Serve with slices
of buttered toast.' (Recipe ofB.

Grimod Grimod de la Reynière Reynidre (1758-1838) ( 1758-1838)

This jury of tasters intervals at the home of the met at at intervals at the
tasters met lived in in the gastronome, who There, in the Champs-Elysées. Champs-
Elys6es. There, who lived solemn fashion, they tasted tasted the dishes sent to
Grimod de la Reynière by by tradesmen who publicity by by making who sought sought
publicity Reyniire known known to their customers customers thejudgement, the
judgement, always favourable, pronounced by this gastronomic Areopagus. The jury of
tasters, give up up its its sittings however, had had to to give tasters, however,
because sorne de some of of its judgements aroused protest. Grimod de la en accused
even accused of interested la Reynière interested partiality. Reyniire was ev
GRIND. term is is used GRII\D. ÉGRUGER 6cnucm. - To reduce to powder. This tenn
especially mill. a mortar or mil!. especially of sea-salt ground in a GRISSINI
bread varying varying in in sticks of hard-baked bread GRISSIM - Long sticks length
from 25 cm. (10 to 30 30 inches). 25 to 75 75 cm. Grissini, at large large bakeries
bakeries.. origin, can can be bought at Grissini, of Italian origin, GROG spirit,
lemon, lemon, rum or or sorne some other other spirit, containing rum - Drink
containing sugar and and hot water. Old given to to the the English English admirai
admiral Old Grog the nickname given Grog was was the Vernon the grogram coat he
used used to to wear. wear. coat he Vernon because because of ofthe ln in their
ration of their ration In 1740 he to put water in of his men to he ordered ordered
his rum, was invented. 'grog'was invented. rum, and called 'grog' and thus thus a a
new beverage called GROS-BLANQUET greenishpear with Variety of of pear with a a
greenishGRO$BLANQUET - Variety yellow skin. gritty in in texture. texture. skin. It
It is sweet, but but rather rather gritty is quite sweet, GROSSETÊTE BYGONE
RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE GROSSETETE -_ See SEC RESTAURANTS DAYS. DAYS. GROUSE. are
several several Game bird bird of of which which there there are GROUSE. TÉTRAS
rfrus -- Game varieties. varieties. The the capercaillie, very superb creature,
creature, with with very The largest largest is capercaillie, a a superb isthe
delicate northern in countries countries of of northern delicate flesh. flesh.
Quite common in Quite common Europe, prepared like pheaIt is is prepared like
pheaEurope, it found in in France. France. It it is is rarely rarely found sant
grouse. sant or or ordinary ordinary grouse. The grouse, a pheasant and and The
black the size size of of the the pheasant black grouse, a bird bird about about
the cooked grouse or red grouse way, the the British British red or Scotch Scotch
cooked in in the the same same way, grouse, gelinotte (hazel (hazel grouse grouse
or grouse, the hazel hen), hen), and and the French Frenchgelinotte or hazel the
ganga or pin-tailed grouse grouse which is found found in in the the south south of
the ganga which is of or pin-tailed France The last to the the same same family.
family. The last France and and Aigeria, Algeria, ail all belong belong to bird,
good is the the size size of of a a good bird, whose whose flesh flesh is is
extremely extremely delicate, delicate, is partridge. prepared in partridge. It in
spit-roasted but but may may be be prepared It is is usually usually spit-roasted
any gelinotte. for the any way way suitable suitable for the gelinotte.
437 437

after Fribourg after canton of Fribourg the Swiss Swiss canton in the GRUYÈRE
Valley in GRUYDRE - Valley is named. (See CHEESE.) which which Gruyère Gruydre
cheese is comsold commollusc sold Species of of mollusc GRYPHAEA. cnvpsfu --
Species GRYPHAEA. GRYPHÉE oysters. Portuguese oysters. the name of Portuguese
mercially under the guava tree, which a bush bush which tree, a the guava Fruit of
of the GUA VA. GOYAVE coyAVE -- Fruit GUAVA. Asia. and Asia. of America and grows
in grows in the the tropical regions of pear shaped, shaped, some are are pear
ofguava, There guava, sorne several species of There are are several fig. like a a
fig. type is is shaped shaped like One type others orange shaped. One others orange
It is is usually usually insipid. It guava is pulp of is somewhat somewhat insipid.
The the guava The pulp of the jelly or jam, jelly paste. or paste. into jam, made
into or made eaten stewed or raw, but can can be stewed eaten raw,

sandybottom on the the sandy found on Smallfish GUDGEON. - Small fish found bottom
couJoNGLJDGEON. GOUJON shoals' live in in shoals. Europe. Gudgeon Gudgeon live of
rivers of of Europe. and rivers the lakes lakes and of the There There are are
various kinds. gudgeon, is found is the the one one found The the common common
gudgeon, parent species, The parent species, the kind is is Another kind France.
Another rivers of of France. in in the the rivers numbers in in large large numbers
One the Danube. Danube. One in the another in found and another the Somme, Somme,
and found in in the rivers, (pope), is French rivers, all French gremille (pope),
found in in almost almost ail species, is found species, gremille called is
sometimes sometimes called Moselle, and and is especially the Moselle, and the
Seine and especially the Seine gouionnidre. perche goujonnière. goujonniire or in
or perche in French, French, goujonnière It is usually is usually gudgeon is very
delicate. delicate. It The is very The flesh flesh of of the the gudgeon eaten
smelt. the smelt. like the eaten fried, fried, like with Coat with EN MANCHON
MANcHoN -- Coat Gudgeon couJoN EN en manchon. manchon. GOUJON Gudgeon en
gudgeon,leaving the egg leaving the of the the gudgeon, the bodies bodies of and
breadcrumbs egg and breadcrumbs the as a a These are are used used as fry. These
heads Deep fry. uncoated. Deep heads and tails uncoated. and tails sprinkled fish
can can be be sprinkled small fish gamish Other small garnish for fish. Other for
braised braised fish. with frying. before frying. with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs
before
GUERBIGNY CHEESE. SCC CHEESE. GUERBIGNY -_ See GUÉRET See CHEESE. CHEESE. CUENNT -_
See
parts of the France to to the given in of France GUIGNETTE in sorne some parts Name
given GUIGNETTE -- Name sand family. piper, a the snipe snipe family. a bird bird
of of the sand piper, In (q.v.) are for this this bird. bird. In Ali suitable for
are suitable for snipe snipe (q.v.) All recipes recipes for guignette is is applied
to aa applied to sorne name guignette parts of the name France the of France some
parts molhlsc, coastal waters. waters. French coastal in French found in littorine,
found mollrlsc, the the littorine,
pTNTADE, PINTADEAU pINTADEAU -- Genus of bird of GUINEA GUINEA FOWL. Genus of of
bird FOWL. PINTADE, the several species. species. It It is is aa which includes
includes several the Gallinaceae Gallinaceae family family which native lied it
called Romans, who whoca it known to to the the Romans, native of of Africa Africa
and and was was known (Carthage) hen. Numidian hen. The The flesh of flesh of
Numidian hen hen or or Carthaginian Carthaginian (Carthage) pheasant. young young
guinea guinea fowl similar to to that that of of pheasant. fowl is is delicate
delicate and and similar
GUINEA FOWL GUINEAFOWL

Guinea Guinea fowl fowl d à la la lanzuedocienne(Robert languedocienne (Robert

Carrier\ Carrier)

438
GUYENNE GUYENNE
guinea fowl The guinea fowl often often figures figures on on the the menu menu of
of banquets banquets and and The pheasant', a wedding receptions receptions as
'Bohemian pheasant', as 'Bohemian a name name which which is is wedding somewhat
exaggerated. exaggerated. somewhat poults, which Guinea poults, which are are found
found in in the the markets markets of of France France Guinea towards the the end
prepared of July, July, are are excellent. excellent. They They can end of can be
be prepared towards pheasant or partridges. in any any way way suitable suitable
for for pheasant or partridges. in grown guinea guinea fowls prepared (hot (hot or
Fully grown fowls are are prepared or cold) cold) in in any any Fully way suitable
suitable for for chicken. chicken. way Guinea fowlliver. fowl liver. FOIE rorc DE
oE PINTADES ITNTADEs -- Ali All recipes recipes for for chicken chicken Guinea
guinea fowl livers are are sui suitable for guinea fowl livers. livers. These These
are used are also also used livers table for as an an ingredient in in stuffings.
stuffings. as

renders it pharmaceutics and it useful useful in in pharmaceutics prerenders

andcookery cookery for for the theprejujube, paration of of mucilages. mucilages.
Gurn Gum arabic arabic is is the the basis paration basisof of jujube, marshmallow
and paste. and liquorice liquorice paste. marshmallow gum. SIROP (18oz.) Syrup gum.
g. (18 slRop DE gum DE GOMME GoMME - - Crush Syrup Crush 500 500 g. oz.)gum (scant
pint, arabic pint, 2i for 24 and soak ara bic and soak for 24 hours hours in in1
litre (scant 2f cups) cups) I litre cold water. Add to water. Add cold kg. (41 lb.,
9 cups) to aasyrup madewith with22kg.(41b.,9 syrup made cups) (lf pints, sugar and
pints, generous generous quart) quart) water and 1 I litre litre (li sugar water
boiled boiledto to (220F.). Boil 105'C. (220°F.). 105°C. when Boil the the mixture,
mixture, skim, skim, and and filter filter it it when quite cool. cool. Store quite
Store in in bottles. bottles. GLJRNEAU -- French French name GURNEAU name for for
aa species gurnet. It species of of gurnet. It is is found in in the Mediterranean,
in found the Mediterranean, in British British coastal coastal waters waters and
and in in the Baltic. the Baltic. gurnet (q.v.) (q.v.) are All recipes recipes for
Ail for gurnet are suitable suitable for for this this fish. fish.

Guinea fowl fowl Guinea

GUINEA GUINEA PIG. COCHON D'rNDE cocsoN P'INDE of South South - Domestic rodent of
American origin. Its flesh is American is edible, edible, but it is is chiefly used
used for for laboratory experiments.
GUINGLJET GUINGUET expression used to describe mediocre, mediocre, - French
expression rather acid acid wine of 10w low alcoholic content.

GURNET. cRoNDIN -- This This European European fish GURMT. GRONDIN fish is is often
often sold soldin in quite France France as as red red mullet, erroneously, since
since though though quite mullet, but but erroneously, delicate in flavour,
flavour, it it cannot cannot be be compared compared with with the the true true
red red delicate in mullet. mullet. (grunter) in The gurnet is grandin (grunter)
The gurnet is called in French French because called grondin because of of the
grunting sound the grunting sound it it is is said said to to make make when when
it it cornes comes out out of of the the water. quite different It is water. It is
quite different in in shape shape from from the the true true red red mullet.
mullet. There gurnet. Among There are are various various types types of of gurnet.
Among those those to to be be found gurnet, whose whose scales found in in France
France are red gurnet, scales are a beautibeautiare the the red are a fuI gurnet,
red ful clear clear red red or rose colour; the cuckoo red in in colour; or rose
colour; the colour; cuckoo gurnet, the the trigle trigle lyre, lyre, whose whose
back back is is aa beautiful beautiful clear clear red red with with silvery grey
gurnet, gurnet, silvery and and rose-coloured rose-coloured belly belly and and
sides; sides; the the grey grey grey with on back flanks; the with whitish whitish
spots spots on back and and flanks; the shining shining gurnet, gurnet, also
gurnet, which long-finned gurnet, called the is the largest also called the long-
finned which is the largest of (24 inches) of the the species species it can as
much much as as 60 60 cm. cm. (24 in inches) in can be be as - it length yellowish
pink pink along pinkish length -- coloured coloured yellowish along the the back,
back, pinkish white gurnet, when The shining white on shining gurnet, when its its
fins fins are are on the the belly. belly. The outspread, outspread, has has the
delicately the appearance appearance of of a a butterfly, butterfly, with with
delicately tinted 'wings' ranging purple. from blue tinted 'wings' ranging from
blue to to deep deep purple. Gurnet quite good good to Its flesh is quite to eat.
eat. Its flesh is is white white and Gurnet is and fiaky. flaky. Ali (see MULLET)
All recipes recipes for for red red mullet mullet (see MULLET) are are suitable
suitable for for gurnet, gurnet, which grilled or which can can be be fried, fried,
grilled cooked in in butter or cooked butter à ri la /a meunière (q.v.). They
meuniire (q.v.). They can be stewed stewed or can be or cooked cooked in in white
white wine, wine, and (q.v.). and they they are are used used in rn bouillabaisse
bouillabal'sse (q.v.). GUYENNE province has GUYENNE -- This This vast vast province
has been been divided divided into into the the départements dipartemenls of of the
Gironde, Gironde, Dordogne, Dordogne, Lot, Lot, Aveyron, Aveyron, LotLotet-Garonne
et-Garonne and and Tarn-et-Garonne. Tarn-et-Garonne. The The cuisine cuisine of of
this this region region is is dominated dominated by by the the truffies truffies
of 6f Périgord P6rigord and garlic which and Lot, Lot, and and garlic which is is
used used liberally liberally in in most most of of the the local local dishes.
dishes. The products of The products of the the region region include include the
the celebrated Roquecelebrated Roquefort fort cheese; cheese; the the truffies of
of Périgord geese and P6rigord and and Lot; Lot; the the geese and duck duck livers
livers which potted or which are are potted pdtis; the made into rnto pâtés; or
made the confit confit d'oie d'oie of Montauban; the of Montauban; the lamb lamb of
of Pauillac; Pauillac; and and ail all the the succulent partridge, woodcock
succulent partridge, pdtis made and thrush woodcock and thrush pâtés made almost
almost everywhere everywhere here, here, but especially in but especially in the
the little little town town of of Lomogne, a a centre centre of of delicious
delicious cooking. cooking. Culinary Ctlinary specialities speialities -- Among
Among the the special special local local dishes dishes of of Guyenne those
deserving deserving of of special special mention mention are are estouffat
estouffat of of haricot haricot beans; beans; lampreys lampreys à d la la
bordelaise; bordelaise; tripe tripe with with saffron; saffron; tripe à d la la
ruthénoise; ruthinoise; leg leg of of lamb lamb à pudding d la la ficelle; white
pudding ficelle; white quercinois; quercinois; stuffed chicken; potted truffles;
chicken; polted trffies; cèpes cdpes à d la la bordebordelaise; girondin; Agen
prunes; hearth-cake. Iaise; millas girondin; Agen prunes; hearth-cake. The broths
pots-au-feu include garbure Gasconne broths and and pots-au-feu include the the
garbure Gasconne and, and, no less less delectable, delectable, the the chaudeau
chaudeau and and the the tomato tomato tourin. tourin. Most famous famous of the
fish of the fish dishes dishes of of Guyenne Guyenne are are matelotes matelotes of
of lampreys lampreys and eels and and trout trout à and eels d la la meunière.
meuniire. Exclusive Exclusive to to this this fashioned region region are are
oyster sausages; sausages; bunting bunting en en caisses; caisses; old oldfashioned
galimaufry; foie-gras jugged mountain grapes; jugged with grapes; mountain hare;
hare; foie-gras with tripe tripe à gasconnade; stuffed d la la landaise; landaise;
leg leg of of lamb lamb à d la la gasconnade; stuffed chicken; alicuit ose hearts;
goose or alicuit of of goose or chicken; goose chicken; stuffed stuffed go hearts;
roast roast wood wood pigeon; woodcock woodcock salmi, salmi, and, and, the the
dish dish extolled extolled by by Marcel Prévost, Pr6vost, the the Christmas
Christmas estouffat. estouffat.
439 439

GUINGUETTE GUINGUETTE Name given to a French suburban suburban place of of - Name

refreshment with with music music and and dancing. dancing. Sorne Some etymologists
believe that name is believe that this name guinguet, a is derived derived from
from guinguet, a type type of of grape cultivated cultivated in the Paris suburbs.
suburbs. A rather sour wine was made from from these these grapes grapes and made
and this this was was mainly mainly drunk drunk in in taverns on the outskirts of
of Paris.
MOUETTE GULL. MouErrE is leathery with with an - Sea-bird whose flesh is

unpleasant taste, but whose eggs are edible.

GUL y AS - See GOULASCH. GULYAS GOULASCH.

GOMME - Term GUM. coMME Term applied to a a number of diverse diverse subcement
from stances which flow either naturally or by indu inducement stems of of certain
plants. When When mixed mixed with the stems with water these these subhave
adhesive adhesive properties. The stances have The stems stems of the the plants
exude gum gurn when they are punctured by insects or when inexude cisions are made
in them. is used of these these gums, gums, gum tragacanth, One of tragacanth,is
used in cookery, and and the preparation preparation of of medicinal pas tes and in
the manualso in the pastes

facture of syrup gum. It is is said that that some sorne resinous resinous gums
were were used used as It as condiments by the Romans. GOMME ARABTeUE ARABIQUE -
Product of secretion Gum arabic. coMME secretion of various species of acacia
acacia trees. trees. It is found found in in the the form form of It is yellowish
or or reddish reddish fragments, soluble soluble in in water, water, contact
contact with yellowish whichgives them a aviscous consistency. This gives them
which viscous consistency. This property
GYMNE,TRE GYMNÈTRE
Fillets of sole.
:nnes

wlth

sausages

Lrmprey,
cevlar€, Etts In r, Preserved

$llellX:Hsz

fuWoodcock ciriopei, Fillets of harc. Truftfes and morels d la cftmet Rognonode,

Thrurh cutlcts

lL,ffi
,eli2ttdetoise,.\t\r\r
Hara d

rqotc

Jjriti&."d#
$'orrur-u t Es!, I;'ru'S,','"ti:$ 1t'J<-'lt'ims i--1 Veat,prth-crufiis .-: :-i TARN
J..ET.)GARi! (,:
/y'Yeketables
Fricassée parslèy. Fricass6e of riith parsliy. oI eel With Manchons of beef wlth
with cèpes cdpcs l,llonchons

AVEYRON
r'l "..Thrush
Solm,s of thrush
DAt':

^
r.
__

Calfs liver bardelalse. Lardeloise, Salmis Sofmis of Caff's Ilver duck. c0pcs and
lamprey duck, Preserved Pre.served cèpes

Trufie omelette I young rabbrt rrth l"tb.l,__.Gastronomic map of Guyenne

Gastronomie

l.

Among Among the sweets of the district are are tourtisseaux. tourtisseaux, cruchade
gasconne pasti. The feuillantines feuillantines of gasconne and lu pasti. of Gers
Gers and and the and lou gArcan à gâteau forgotten. d la broche must not be
forgotten. red the excellent excellent red We end this list with a brief reference
to the UX) and above and white wines of of the district (see BORDEA BORDEAUX) ail
Armagnac (see GASCONY). all to the eau-de-vie of Armagnac
fresh tastes rather like fresh GYMNÈTRE GYMNDTRE - Species of fish which tastes
cod. gymnitre faux, which is found in the Mediterranean, is found Mediterranean,
T\e gymnètrefaux, The flat, silver silver in colour with red is about 45 cm. (18
inches) long, fiat, fins. suitable for this fish. Ali All recipes for cod (q.v.)
are suitable

440 440
Game: boar's head(Le Doyen. Phol. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) boar's he Game: ad (Le
Doyen.
t ' '" "

Ftr!
HADDOCK. ÉGLEFIN, 6cr.nrrN, AIGLEFIN, ArcLEFrN, AIGREFIN ATcREFTN -- Sea-fish Sea-
fish of of the the HADDOCK. family, but cod family, but smaller smaller than than
the the true true cod. cod. This This fish fish is is also also cod (black cod),
known in France France as as égrefin, dgrefin, morue morue noire noire (black cod),
morue morue known Saint-Pierre and and in Newfoundland Newfoundland as as âne 6ne
or or ânon. dnon. Saint-Pierre Fresh haddock haddock is is white white and and
delicate. delicate. Ali All recipes for for cod cod Fresh (q.v.) are suitable for
for fresh haddock. (q.v.)

L'IRLANDATS L'IRLANDAISE

Smoked haddock haddock Smoked

Smoked haddock haddock is popular in very popular in England England and and the
Smoked is very U.S.A. soon as as it it is fish is is split lengthwise, lengthwise,
U .S.A. As As soon is caught, the fish lightly salt, hung by the the tail, tail,
and and left left to rubbed over with salt, lightly rubbed smoke for for 24 Smoked
haddock keeps fresh fresh for smoke 24 hours. ho urs. Smoked haddock keeps
several days. Cod and haddock, when they they are freslq fresh, lend themselves to
a a great great number number of culinary treatments and suitable recipes

Baked haddock haddock à i l'irlandaise. l'irlandaise. AIGREFIN ATcREFTN AU AU FOUR

ForJR À Baked A haddock with Stuffa Truss in with suet. suet. Truss in an a haddock
an S-shape S-shape - Stuff and make make light light incisions incisions on on the
the sides. Put in in aa buttered and sides. Put buttered pan, season pepper, and
season with salt and with salt and pepper, and moisten baking pan, moisten with
with (* pint, pint, ~ l+ dl. dl. (t paper cup) Madeira. Madeira. Cover Cover with
with a a buttered buttered paper H J cup) and bake bake in in the the oven, oven,
basting basting frequently. frequently. Untie and Untie the the fish, fish, juices.
arrange on hot dish on a a hot dish and pan juices. and sprinkle sprinkle with with
the the pan arrange (s*, SAUCE). Serve with with Oyster Oyster sauce sauce or or
Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see Serve SAUCE). Curried smoked smoked haddock.
haddock. HADDOCK HADD@K À A L'INDIENNE r'lNorsNNE -- Bone, Curried Bone, skin and
and dice dice the the fish. fish. Cook Cook chopped chopped onion skin onion in in
butter butter and and add add the haddock. haddock. Cook Cook for for 5 5 minutes.
minutes. Add Add a fairly thin the a fairly thn Curry Curry (see SAUCE). sauce (see
SAUCE). Cover, Cover, and and simmer simmer for for 10 sauce l0 minutes. minutes.
(see RICE). Serve with with Rice à d l'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). Serve
Gritled smoked smoked haddock. haddock. HADDOCK HADDocK GRILLÉ Grilled GRTLL6 --
Brush Brush the the fish with oil oil or or melted melted butter and and cook
grill. fish cook slowly slowly under under the the grill. Serve with potatoes, or
with melted melted butter butter and and boiled Serve boiled potatoes, or with with
Maitre d'hôtel (see BUTTER, d'h6tel butter (see Maître butters). BUfiER, Compound
Compoundbutters). pApRrKA paprika. HADDOCK Smoked haddock haddock with with
paprika. HADDocK AU AU PAPRIKA Smoked Proceed as as for for Curried Curried
haddock, haddock, substituting substituting Hungarian Proceed for curry curry
sauce. sauce. sauce (see SAUCE) for pocnE - Simmer smoked haddock. haddock. HADDOCK
HADDocK pocHÉ Poached smoked the - Simmer the fish in in slightly slightlv salted
salted boiling water, water, without fish without allowing allowing it it to to 6
to to JO l0 minutes, according according to boil, for 6 to its its size. size.
Haddock Haddock can can Serve with melted also be poached in milk. Serve melted
butter and and boiled potatoes. potatoes.

will EEL, WHITING, WHITING, under BASS, BASS, BRILL, BRILL, EEL, will be be found
found under TUNNY, TUNNY, TURBOT, TURBOT.

Baked Baked haddock haddock

(Scottish cookery) cookery) HAGGIS (Scottish regarded as as the the - Haggis may be
regarded national dish dish of of Scotland. Scotland. When national When this this
dish dish is is served served at at certain large banquets in Scotland, it it is is
accompanied accompanied by an ofpipers. escort of pipers. given by is the recipe
given Here is the recipe by Alfred Alfred Suzanne in in rus his book book la
Cuisine anglaise. la 'To make a haggis, haggis, take 'To make a take a a sheep's
sheep's stomach, stomach, cJean clean thoroughly and and turn inside out. 'Take the
heart, liver and lungs of the sheep. Boil ail all these for 30 minutes in salt
water. Take out the the offal and and mince it very finely, except for part of the
liver which must be allowed very to get quite cold so that it can be grated.
'Spread the mince on a table and season with salt, pepper, pepper, nutmeg, cayenne
pepper pepper and chopped onion. Add the grated liver, liver, a handful handful of
of oatmeal 4 cups) chopped oatmeal and 500 g. (18 oz., o2.,4 beef beef suet. Now
Now fill the stomach mixture, a stomach with the mixture, a little little more than
half haLf full, leaving plenty of space at the top ta to prevent it from bursting
bursting during during cooking. Add a glassful glassful of good gravy. Prick the
haggis here and there with a a large needle and and sew sew up the opening. Place
in a large pan with plenty plenty ofwater of water and boil for 3 hours. 'It 'It
sometimes happens happens that that the the bladder bladder bursts bursts during

MI 441
Game: Game : wild wild duck(k duck (Le Doyen. Doyen. Phot. Phol . Nicolas)
HAKE HAKE
cooking cooking and and spills out its contents. To avoid this, wrap the haggis
haggis in in a napkin, napkin, as as though it it were a a galantine, before
putting putting it into into boiling boiling water.' Haggis Haggis is is normally
nonnally served served wrapped wrapped in a a well-starched napkin traditional
drink drink that goes with with it. napkin and and whisky whisky is the traditional
HAKE HAKE - Sea-fish Sea-fish called merlmt merlan (whiting) in Provence, colin
(cod) on some sorne (cod) in in Paris Paris and saumon saumon blanc (whrte (white
salmon) on French French menus. menus. Its Its flesh fiesh is tender, tender,
white, flaky fiaky and easy to digest. is called called merluche merluche
(stockfish). (stock.fish). digest. When When dried, dried, it is All Ali recipes
recipes for for cod cod (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable suitable for hake. hake.
HALBRAN. ALBRAN - Name Narne given given to to very very youngwild young wild duck.
duck. HALBRAN. ALBRANWhen is called called duckling, then then duck. It It is When
a a little little older older it it is cooked cooked like like duck duck (q.v.).
(q.v.).

HALCYON HALCYON (kingfisher). (kingfisher). ALcyoN ALCYON - The name narne of this
this bird comes Greek alkuon alkuon (formed (fonned of als, ais, the sea, sea, and
cornes from frorn the the Greek kuon, kuon, one who who nurses nurses its its
young). young). Accordin! According to a a Greek
legend of the the sea. sea. legend the the halcyon halcyon built built its its nest
nest on on the the waves waves of

This This bird, bird, remarkable remarkable for for its its brilliant brilliant
blue blue plumage, plumage, with varying of red red on on the the breast, breast,
is is the the Australian Australian version varying shades shades of of of our our
kingfisher, kingfisher, or or laughing laughing jackass. jackass. From From
Australia the the species China and and Japan. Japan. species has has spread spread
to to China The The halcyons halcyons built built their their nests nests with with
the the aid aid of of a gelatinous gelatinous substance substance secreted secreted
during d uring the the laying laying period period by by their their crops. crops.
These In their their dried dried These nests nests are are much rnuch esteemed
esteerned by by the the Chinese. Chinese. In state state they they are are imported
imported into into Europe Europe and and are are greatly greatly prizd prized at
the the best best tables, tables, where where they they are are known known as as
birds' birds' nests. nests.

Slicing and serving serving ham haro in a large large restaurant Slicing restaurant

Halibut Halibut

HALmUT. ru6rlNFLÉTAN - Large Largeflat fiat fish fish found found in in northern
northern waters. waters. HALIBUT.
can be be as as much rnuch as as 2 2 m. m. (6| (6! feet) feet) long long and and
weighs weighs between between can 150and and 200 200 kg. kg. (330 (330 and and
4l0lb.). 440 lb.). 150 The firm firm white white flesh flesh of of halibut halibut
is is greatly greatly valued valued as as food, food, The and all ail recipes
recipes for for brill brill (q.v.) (q.v.) may rnay be be used used for for this
this fish. fish. and HALICOT OF OF MUTTON. MUTTON. rHucor HALICOT DE DE MouroN
MOUTONA mutton rnutton HALICOT -A stew garnished garnished with with turnips,
turnips, potatoes, potatoes, onions, onions, and, and, somesornestew MUTTON,
Haricot Haricot or or halicot halicot times, with with haricot haricot beans.
beans. See See MUTTON, times, ofmutton. of mutton. tenn is is also also applied
applied smoked. In In current current usage, usage, however, however, the the term
smoked. ofpig pig that that is is cured cured in in the the same sarne fashion.
fashion. This This to the the shoulder shoulder of to cut, though thoughexcellent,
excellent, is is nevertheless nevertheless a a good good deal deal less less
delicate delicate cut, than the the leg. leg. than In French French cookery cookery
the the term tennjambon jambon not not only only means rneans ham harn In but also
also applies applies to to a a leg leg of of fresh fresh pork. pork. This This cut
cut can can be be but or divided divided into into cooked in in a a great great
many rnany ways, ways, either either whole whole or cooked Itis is also also used
used as as an an ingredient ingredient for for stuffing, stuffing, and and
srnallercuts. cuts. It smaller invarious variousmanufactured rnanufactured pork
porkproducts products(see (seePORK). PORK). A A Ham Ham in Fairis isheld held
regularly regularly in in Paris Paris and and several several other other large
large French French Fair cities. This This fair fair whictr, which, in in former
former times, tirnes, was was held held during during the the cities. Good Friday,
Friday, and and which whichwas wasthen thencalled called threedays dayspreceding
precedingGood three du lard lard (the (the Bacon Bacon Fair), Fair), took took
place place in in the the square square in in Foire &t Foire ofNotre-Dame. Notre-
Dame. The The canons canons leased leased the the ground ground to to the the front
of front pork butchers. butchers. The The site site was was changed changed several
several butchers and and pork butchen 442 42 HAM. tAMBoN JAMBON - Strictly,
Strictly, a a ham harn is is a a leg leg of of pork, pork, salted salted and and
HAM. is more more elongated elongated in in shape shape than than other other flat
fiat fish, fish, the the The body body is The is large. large. A A halibut halibut
eyes are are on on the the right right side, side, and and the the mouth rnouth is
eyes

tirnes. In In 1813, 1813, the the fair fair was was transferred transferred to to
the the quai times. quai des Grands-A ugustins, where where it remained remained
until until 1832. 1832. It Grands-Augustins, It was and in in 1848 was transrnoved
to faubourg Saint-Martin, moved Saint-Martin, and 1848 was ferred to the boulevard
boulevard Bourdon. At the end of the Second rnoved, for the the last last time,
tirne, to to the the boulevard boulevard Empire it was moved, todcry. where it is
still held today. Richard-Lenoir, where and smoking of pork to produce ham harn is
is of The salting and French origin. It was the Gauls, great devotees of pig meat
French and efficient efficient pig pig breeders, breeders, who first became becarne
renowned renowned for the and salting, smoking smoking and curing curing of of the
the various cuts cuts of of pork. salting, After salting, the the Gauls subjected
subjected thern thern for two days days to the After They then then rubbed rubbed
them thern srnoke of certain selected woods. They smoke with oil and and vinegar
vinegar and hung them thern up, to dry and and preserve preserve with The Gauls ate
ham harn either at at the the beginning beginning of ofa rneal to them. The them. a
meal or at the end end to induce thirst. sharpen their their appetites, appetites,
or sharpen Many different different kinds kinds of of salt salt and smoked srnoked
ham are obtainob tainMany in France. France. Almost Alrnost every every region
region has has its own local ham. harn. able in able de Bayonne, Bayonne, cured
Arnong the the best best known known arc are the the jambon jambon de Among curd at
but known known the the world over as as jambon jambon de de Bayonne. Bayonne.
Orthez, but is eaten eaten raw, raw, as as an hors-d'euvre.lt hors-d'œuvre. It is
also also used used in harn is This ham other cooking in in various various ways,
ways, but but unlike unlike York ham harn or other cooking lightly smoked srnoked
hams, harns, it must must not not be be boiled. Jambon Jambon de de lightly Bayonne
is served served with with eggs eggs cooked cooked in in various various ways, and
it Bayonne also forms fonns an an ingredient ingredient of of various various
sauces sauces and ragoûts. The also and ragofrts.The jambon jambon de de Toulouse
Toulouse is is merely merely salted and dried. It It is eaten eaten de Bayonne,
Bayonne, and and is is also also used used in in cooking. cooking. raw like like
the thejambon jambon de raw of salted saI ted and and smoked srnoked hams harns
called called There are are a a large large number n urn ber of There France
jambons de de campagne. campagne. Among Arnong these these are are the the hams
hams of in Francejambons in Brittany, Morvan, Morvan, Burgundy, Burgundy, Montagne-
Noir Montagne-Noir (C6vennes), (Cévennes), Brittany, Lorraine, Alsace, Alsace,
Touraine, Touraine, Limousin, Limousin, Auvergne, Auvergne, the the Lorraine,
Vosges, Savoy, Sa voy, etc. etc. Almost Alrnost all ail these these hams ha ms are
are eaten eaten raw, or Vosges, rnay be be used used in in cooking, cooking, like
like the the jambon jambon de de Toulouse. Toulouse. Some Sorne may York ham. harn.
rnay be be boiled boiled like like York may French cooking cooking hams, hams,
similar sirnilar to to English English cooking cooking hams, harns, French or
jambon jambon demi-sel, demi-sel, also also known known as as jambon jambon
arejambon jambon blanc blanc or are de ParisParis. This This ham, harn, which which
is is either either not not smoked srnoked at at all ail or or only only de very
lightly lightly smoked, srnoked, is is sold sold by by all ail French French pork
pork butchers butchers very na me of ofjambon jambon glaci. glacé. under the the
name under The food food value value of of ham ham is is more more or or less less
equivalent equivalent to to that that of of The rneaL However, However, salted
salted or or smokod srnoked raw raw ham harn is is not not to to be be meat.
recornrnended for for fragile fragile digestions, digestions, and and more more
robust robust recommended of it. it. Cooked Cooked constitutions should should not
not consume consume too too much rnuch of constitutions harn, on on the the other
other hand, hand, may rnay be be given given to to children children and and ham,
is best best boiled boiled in in plenty plenty of of water water invalids. Home-
cooked Home-cooked ham harn is invalids. bought to remove rem ove fats fats and and
toxic toxic substances. substances. Boiled Boiled ham harn bought to comrnercially,
tinted tinted pink pink by by the the addition addition of of potassium potassium
commercially, is better better avoided. avoided. nitrate, is nitrate,
HAM HAM
lent lent hams harns are are cured cured in in the the U.S.A. U.S.A. However,
However, almost alrnost all ail American to Europe, Europe, and and particularly
particularly to Arnerican hams harns exported exported to
France, France, are cookod cooked and preserved. preserved . JAMBONS D'ANGLETBRRE
D'ANGLETERRE - English hams harns are EngJish hams. barns. rnunoNs English usually
usually described on on French French menus as as York ham, harn, but but a
distinction distinction must be made between between the various various methods
rnethods of processing. processing. This This is indicated indicated by their trade
mark. mark. York ham, srnoked (lightly (Iightly or heavily), is usually usually
harn, which which is smoked boiled. It is served either hot or cold. When hot, a
special boiled. sauce sauce is served with it, flavoured with Madeir4 Madeira,
sheery, port, York ham harn can also be be boiled and then then baked baked in the
oyen, etc. York oven, covered with brown brown sugar, sugar, spice and cloves.
covered York ham, harn, thinly sliced and saut6ed sautéed inbutter, in butter, is
often Raw York American American foams harns (preserved). (preserved). r.luroNs
JAMBONS D'AMfRrew D'AMÉRIQUE - Excelparsley, and and the the foreleg hams, harns,
Dijon hams harns prepared with parsley, hams of Paris, Reims, Strasbourg, Nancy
etc. ha ms of industry, involves of ham, harn, which is now a great industry, The
curing curing of The harns hams are salting and and smoking. The two two main
operations, salting with dry dry salt, or rubbed over with either salted brine, or
dry either salted in brine, well covered and left for three days weil salt,
saltpetre and sugar and sall

put into into brine, brine, washed, They are are then then put with this this
mixture. They with
chambers, smoked in special chambers, brushed and dried, and finally srnoked grows
denser as the operasmoke which grows starting with a light srnoke starting

with eggs. eggs. served with

Baked York York ham barn Baked

D'ALLEMAGNE, DE BoIr6IvtE, BOH~ME, DE HoNcRJE HONGRIE D'ALLEIr.IAGNE,

German, Czechoelovakian Czechoslovakian ad and Hungsrian Hungarian hrms. barns.

JAMBONS Germann JAMBoNS best-known is - The best-known harn which, like Westphalian
Westphalian harn" harn, is is mostly rnostly eaten Mainz ham rnay also be boiled
whole and before the raw, but may and served before course. Other well-known German
frorn main course. German harns come from

tion proceeds. proceeds. Poaching. Ham should be soaked in cold water for at least
Poaching. boned at at the It is is then then scrubbed, scrubbed, boned hours before
cooking. cooking. It 6 hours to cook, cook, without without any water to churnp end
into cold cold water chump end and and put into seasoning or arornatics. seasoning
aromatics. sometimes described harn cooked in this way is sornetimes Although ham
'boiled', it should, in fact, be poached and so as soon as the as 'boiled', poach,
simrnering simmering heat and and leave to poach, reduce the heat water boils,
reduce so that the water just shivers. Allow 20 minutes very gently so (l lb.) of
York, Harnburg g. (J Hamburg or Paris cooking time per 500 g. little require a a
Httle harn. Czechoslovakian and Spanish harns hams require ham. and Spanish less
cooking cooking tirne. time. If ham is to be served cold, leave it to cool in the
water If the harn remove in which it was cooked. Ifit ove If it is to be served
hot, drain, rem glaze. the skin, skin, and and glaze. Cold harn ham is served with
with jelly. frequently Hot ham harn is vegetables, rnost most frequently Hot is
served served with with vegetables, spinach, Madeira or other wine sauce. spinach,
and with Madeira poached the remove Glazing. the harn ham as as described,
described, rernove Glazing. Having poached pan, sprinkle witb the skin. harn into
sugar and into a a pan, with sugar and the skin. Put Put the ham brown in the oyen
oven or under the grill. The sugar, upon cararnelising, light glaze on on the a
Iight caramelising, forms a surface its appearance appearance not only only rnakes
makes its the harn, ham, which which not surface of the flavour. more appetising,
but also gives it a good flavour. given The harn method given ham can also be
glazed by following the rnethod for braised rneats AR Y METHODS). METHODS).
CULINARY meats (see CULIN

Gotha and Stuttgart. Stuttgart. Hamburg, Gotha is Prague Prague ham; harn; it The
best best Czechoslovakian Czechoslovakian ham harn is The it is whole, and makes
rnakes a cooked whole, a delicious prelude to to the main harns are made in course.
It is served cold. Excellent srnoked course. smoked hams are made Hungary. Hungary.
Italian hams harns. reMsoNs JAMBONS D'rrALrE D'ITALIE - The best-known Italian
Itrlian is Parma ham. harn. This is is usually usually eaten raw as harn is ham
eateNr raw as an an horsis one one of the most rnost delicate of harns. be d'œuvre
and is d'euvre hams. It It can be though it must not be be boiled, but cut into
used in cooking, though thin slices or diced and sautéed in butter or fat. fat.
Cooked in saut6ed in be served eggs, various this way it can be served with eggs,
various rneat meat dishes, dishes, risottos. poultry or risottos. poultry There are
other other kinds of ltalian There are Italian harn ham which which are are either
boiled whole and eaten used in the same way eaten hot or cold, or used the sarne as
Parma ham. harn. as Spanish barns. lNrasoNs JAMBONS D'ESPAGNE Asturias harn Spani$
hams. D'EspAcr.rE han is is the the - Asturias best-known Spanish best-knovm
Spanish harn. ham. It is is rnild, mild, very very delicate delicate in flavour,
flavour, and is eaten eate,n hot or cold after having been been boiled. It It is is
also also harns of used in cooking cooki.g like the hams of Bayonne and and
Toulouse. poRc SALÉ Salted Sdted and srnoked harn. JAMBON lA,MsoN DE DE PORC rurrlf
smoked barn. snlJ ET sr FUMÉ Salted and and smoked srnoked harns, whether of Salted
hams, whether of French French or or foreign been boiled as described below,
provide origin, after having been as described an intermediate interrnediate course
(remove) much prized by connois(remove) much an prized by connoisseurs. These harns
are seurs. These boiled hams are also also served served cold. cold. Boiled and
cold hams of various kinds are cold harns are to be be found found in ail the pork
butchers of Paris and all and the the big big provincial towns. towns. In these
shops frorn the jambon de In these shops are sold, apart are sold, apart from the
jarnbon de Paris Paris harns boned boned and (jambon glacé), boiled hams and
moulded moulded with with jelly, Qarnbon glaci), srnoked harns boiled boiled and
smoked hams and cold, cold, boiled boiled rolled rolled harns, hams, Dijon Dijon
443 43

Jambonnière (Larousse) pan for Jambonnicre or braising pan for barn hzm(Larcuse)

ham as and poach very Braising. Soak the harn as described above and gently, so so
that boiling is is hardly perceptible. Rernove ham 40 40 minutes Remove the the
harn minutes before before it it is is cornpletely completely cooked. Skin it and
put into a (scant pan. Add 5 a braising pan. dl. (scant 5 dl. pint, (port, pint, 2i
liqueur wine cups) Madeira Madeira or or any any other other liqueur wine (port, 2f
cups) sherry, sherry, Frontignan, Lunel, Marsala etc.). Coyer with a a lid lid and
and cook cook in in the the oyen oven for for between between 45 45 Cover with
minutes minutes and I hour. hour. Glaze as described described above. above. the
harn ham as and 1 Glaze the Arrange put a paper frill Arrange on a paper frill
around the on a a serving serving dish dish and and put around the knuckle.
knuckle. Garnish de-scribed in in the the recipe, recipe, or or serve serve the the
Garnish as as de~cribed garnish and and the the appropriate sauce separately.
separately. appropriate sauce Garnishes and York and and other other hams and
sauces sauces suitable for hams for York served (Madeira sauce), (Madeira s e r v
ed hot. b err ic honne (Madeira ho t. Alsacienne A I s ac ienrc (Madeira sauce),
berrichonne sauce), (Madeira (Madeira sauce), sauce), brabançonne brabangonne
(Madeira sauce), chipolata chipolata (Madeira sauce), (Madeira sauce), glazed,
sauce), glazed sauce), braised braised celery celery or or celeriac celeriac
(Madeira cucurnbers (Madeira cucumbers in big chunks sauce), chicory chicory
(Madeira chunks (Madeira sauce), sauce), (Madeira sauce), sauce), flamande sauce),
leaf or or chopped chopped spinach spinach (Madeira flamande (demi-glace (dcmi-
glace sauce), macCdoine sauce\, hongroise hongroise (demi-glace sauce), sauce),
macédoine
HAM

Ham Ham glace glacé (RoDert (Robert Cafiier') Carrier)

444 M4
HAM HAM
(demi-glace (demi-glace sauce), sauce), nivernaise nivernaise (demi-glace (demi-
glace sauce), sauce), noodles noodles with noisette noisette butter butter
(Madeira, (Madeira, sherry sherry or port port sauce), garden garden with peas peas
or or other other green green vegetable vegetable dressed dressed with butter
butter or cream cream (Madeira (Madeira sauce, sauce, or or wine-flavoured wine-
flavoured cream cream sauce), sauce), various various fresh or or dried dried
vegetable vegetable pur6es purées (demi-glace (demi-glace sauce sauce flavoured
flavoured fresh Madeira or other other liqueur liqueur wine), wine), romaine
romaine (Marsala (Marsala with Madeira with sauce). (See (See GARNISHES, GARNISHES,
SAUCE.) sauce). Ham A à I'alsacienne l'alsacienne I. J. rnaron JAMBON A À
t'ats.lcIBNNE L'ALSACIENNE - Braise Braise the Ham glaze it as harn and and glaze
as described above. above. Garnish Garnish with braised ham sauerkraut, Strasbourg
Strasbourg sausages sa usages and and boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. sauerkraut,
Ham i à I'alsacienne l'alsacienne II. Il. rAMsoN JAMBON A À r'lrs^lclsNNn
L'ALSACIENNE - Heat Ham cooked, thinly sliced York ham ham in in a a few few
tablespoons of cooked, without allowing it to boil. Serve on a foundation of stock
without braised sauerkraut. braised Garnish with Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages
sausages and boiled potatoes. potatoes. Garnish Ham i à la bayonnaise. bayonnaise.
JAMBoN JAMBON A À L.l LA slvoNNAIsE BA YONNAISE - Poach Poach a Ham harn in water
until three three quarters weil de-salted de-salted Bayonne ham well cooked . Take
out out of the the pan, pan, remove skin skin and and trim trim off cooked. surface
only. surplus fat on the surface Put it into a a pan pan and finish braising
braising in Madeira. Madeira. Glaze Glaze and (se' PILAF), a long dish. pilaf (see
dish. Serve with Rice pilaf arrange on a little and !ittle chopped tomatoes,
tomatoes, small small button button mushrooms mushrooms and chopped chipolata
sausages fried fried in butter. Serve with Madeira sauce chipolata (see SA UCE)
based on the braising liquor. liguor. SAUCE) PERSILLE DE Burgundian ham bam with
parsley parsley (cold). JAMBON JAMBoN PERSILLÉ hrrgundian BOURGOGNE - This is an an
Easter luncheon dish Burgundy' in Burgundy. dish in BouRGocNE Wash and and desalt
desalt the the ham. ham. Blanch it it thoroughly, drain, Wash pan with skin, and
cut into big pieces. Put these these into a a large pan 500 oz.) sliced feet,
boned, 2 calf's calf's feet, (18 oz.) knuckle, 2 g. (18 veal knuckle, sliced veal
500 g. (q.v.) a big bouquet garni (g.v.) blanched and tied with string, and a with,
and tarragon, herbs, chervil chervil and usual herbs, to the usual in addition to
with, in and a Season with a peppercorns (tied in a a piece ofmuslin). of muslin).
Season l0 peppercorns and JO little all the meat. meat. cover ail to coyer little
salt. salt. Add enough dry white wine to Bring to me, reduce heat, coyer, cover,
and and reduce heat, high fla flame, on a a high the boil boil on to the simmer
gently on clear stock. stock. a very very clear heat, ta obtain a low heat, to
obtain a low on a This the ham. accompany the the jelly to accompany be used used
for making the This will be When and a fork fork and with a cooked, drain, drain,
flake with well cooked, the ham ham is is weil When the put into a well. down weil.
dish, pressing it down a salad salad dish, Strain vinegar. tarragon vinegar.
liquor. Add Add 1 tablespoonful tarragon the liquor. Strain the (3 tableWhen table2
tablespoons tablespoons (3 add 2 to coagulate, coagulate, add it begins begins to
When it spoons) ham. Leave Leave over the ham. parsley. Pour Pour this jelly over
chopped parsley. spoons) chopped in prepare this this dish dish to prepare It is is
advisable advisable to cold. It in a a cool cool place until cold. the required.
day before before it is is required. the day Ham Cook a a JAMBoN AU AU CHAMBERTIN
cHAMBERTn -- Cook in Chambertin. Ham in Chambertin. JAMBON York quarters done.
done. three quarters in water water until until three ham in York or or Prague
Prague ham Drain, skin. Drain, trim trim and and skin. Braise cooked, When cooked,
on Chambertin. Chambertin. When liquor based based on Braise in in a a liquor drain
glaze. ham and and glaze. drain the the harn Surround glazd onions mushand button
button mushonions and with small small glazed Surround with rooms pour liquor and
and pour the braising braising liquor Strain the frid in in butter. butter. Strain
rooms fried over ham. over the the ham. Cold and, if if ham in in water water and,
the harn FRoID -- Poach Poach the ham. JAMBON JAMBoN FROID Cold barn. it poaching
in its its poaching leave it it to to cool cool in whole, leave is to to be be
served served whole, it is liquor, ove skin, with Aspic Aspic jelly cover with and
coyer remove skin, and liquor, then then trim, trim, rem ielly (see Y). (see JELL
JELLY). Ifit put into into aa skin, put remove skin, bone it, it, trim, trim,
rernove is to to be be moulded, moulded, bone If it is Id, and special press. under
a a press. leave to to cool cool under and leave special mou mould, Cold Pound DE
JAt\1BON JAMBoN -- Pound Mous$ FROIDE FRoIDE DE mousse. MOUSSE ham mousse. Cold ham
finely (18 oz.) g. (18 lean ham ham adding adding oz.) cooked cooked lean in a a
mortar mortar 500 500 g. finely in 2 (see Velouti sauce sauce (see (+ pint, pint,
scant thick Velouté cup) cold, cold, thick scant cup) 2 dl. dl. (1 UCE) . Rub SA a
sieve. sieve. through a Rub through SAUCE). Put ice and andstir it on stir stand it
purde into on ice into aa bowl, bowl, season, season,stand Put this this purée with
en spoon little by by for aa few few minutes, adding, little with a a wood wooden
spoon for minutes, adding, !ittle, jelly. Fold pint, pint, ~ dl. (f;pint, liquid
jelly. Fold in in 44dl. little, li l+ dl. dl. (i c,rp) liquid ft pint, 3 cup) scant
jellyJined Pour into into aa jelly-lined scant 2 2 cups) cups) half-whipped half-
whipped crearn. cream. Pour mould to set. set. mould and and leave leave on on ice
ice to Turn cro0ton. and and Turn out buttered bread bread croûton, or aa buttered
out onto onto aa dish, dish. or garnish jelly. garnish with with jelly.

Ham mousse mousse Ham

A LA a York York or or Ham à JAMBoN À m CRÈME cnirun -- Cook Cook a A la la crème.

crbme. JAMBON Ham two thirds thirds done, done, skin, skin, and and ham in in
salted salted water until until two Prague harn (q.v.). Drain glaze. Drain and and
glaze. in a a Madeira mirepoix (q.v.). braise in two thirds, and and add liquor by
add 5 5 dl. dl. by two Boil down the braising liquor (scant pint, pint, 2* cream.
Boil Boil down down sauce sauce 2l cups) cups) fresh fresh double double cream.
(scant ham. serve with with the the ham. by one third, strain, strain, and and
serve by sN CROÛTE Prague h{fm hrnn in in Hanr en m croûte. JAMBoN EN cno0rE -- See
Se Prague cro0te. JAMBON Ham d l'ancienne. l'ancienne. pastry à

glace Ham Ham glacé Reine Reine Pédauque P6dauque (Larousse) (Larousse)

(cold buffet rnanoN glac6 Reine buffet dish). dish). JAMBON Pddauque (cold Ham Ham
glacé Reine Pédauque pope's eye eye slices the thepope's into thin thin slices Cut
into - Cut poached in (U.S. inMeursault Meursault ham, poached (U .S. eye of aa
York York harn, eye of of the the round) round) of again, the slices slices
together together again, wine left untiJ cold. Put Put the wine and and left until
cold. (see purie (see gras purée sandwiching layersof of Foie Foie gras with layers
sandwiching them them with ham the harn reshaping the PURÉE) diced truffies,
trufles, reshaping PUREE) mixed with diced mixed with port-flavouredChaud-froid
Chaud-froid into with port-fiavoured Coat with form. Coat into its its original
original form. portglaze with with portUCE). Decorate sauce (se SA truffies, glaze
Decorate with with truffies, sauce (see SAUCE). jellycroûtons. jelly, and cro0tons.
flavoured with jelly and surround surround with flavoured aspic aspic jelly,
AULAITUES, LAITUES, JAMBoN AU Ham and endives. endives. JAMBON with lettuce,
lettuce, chicory chicory and Ham with in Madeira, Madeira, Braise the hamin AUX
theham ENDIVES À A LA ra CHICORÉE cmconir - - Braise AUX ENDIVES (orchicory
orendive) endive) garnish lettuces(or chicoryor garnish with halved braised braised
lettuces with halved (see and Demi-glace sauce sauce(see Madeira-flavoured Demi-
glace and serve serve with with Madeira-fiavoured SAUCE). SAUCE). ham, Ham
Desaltthe theham, u MAILLOT u.l'trror - - Desalt ALA lamaiUot. JAMBoNÀ Ham ài la
maillot. JAMBON panand wrap andcoyer cover with with put in inaalarge large
braising braising pan it in inaacloth, cloth,put wrap it cold gently. cold water.
water. Simmer Simmergently. When intoaasrnall small skin.Put Putititinto drain and
andskin. iscooked, cooked, drain theham ham is Whenthe (scantpint, pint, 2* 2|cups)
cups) braising grid,add panwith litre (scant add!I litre with aagrid, braising pan
pEoluer.]E GLACÉ REINE nsn[E PÉDAUQUE

crltcf

445 445
HAM
Madeira. Madeira. Coyer Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Glaze. Garnish glazed
carrots into balls, French beans, with balls, French beans, small with glazed
carrots cut cut into glazd in in stock, and and braised lettuce. Arrange Arrange
these onions onions glazed and serve with Madeira Madeira sauce vegetables in
separate groups and (see SAUCE). pashy, or bam tmfres. ham turnover fumover with
foie gras and trufHes. Ham in pastry,
AU FOIE GRAS ET EN CHAUSSON, CHAUS$N, CHAUSSON DE JAMBON AU JAMBON EN

or sherry. When a harn ham in Madeira, port or TRUFFES in Madeira, TRUFFES - Braise
a and the round, round, trim them, cooked, take out the pope's eye eye and l0
slices of uniform thickness. and cut each into 8 or 10 thickness. these on rolled
out out Lining an oval-shaped piece Put these piece of rolled on an (se.e DOUGH)
paste foundation of DOUGID on on a a foundation of duxelles &txelles (q.v.) pas te
(see mixture and and chopped chopped truffies, truffies, alternating with with
layers layers of mixture gras tossed in butter, and foie gras and slivers of
truffies. Coyer Cover the foie trufres, a layer of duxelles duxelles mixture and
and chopped truffies, ham with a put another piece of rolled-out.lining rolled-
outJining paste on top, seal, seal, and pinch up the edges. Brush the top with
beaten egg, make a up the beater egg, few light incisions and a hole in the middle
to allow steam to escape. Bake in a hot oyen oven for about 45 minutes. (see SAUCE)
a few few tablespoons of of Port sauce (see Pour Port sauce Pour a and serve the
rest of ofthe sauoe separately. separately. through the hole and the sauce through
pastry can be gamishes, Ham be prepared with with various Ham in in pastry various
garnishes, ragofrt à ragofrt à d lafinancière. lafinanciire, ragoût d la h Godard,
morels morels fried such as ragoût braised vegetable. vegetable. in butter, spinach
or any other braised place the harn is to place ham and and its garnish on Another
variation is a round piece of pastry, which is then folded over, forming a the
classic turnover. turnover. pArE DE pie. PÂTÉ os JAMBON JAMBoN thin slices slices
of ham, Ham Ham pie. Using thin - Using FORCEMEAT) and truffies, prepare as fine
forcemeat (see FORCEMEAn Veal and and ham ham pAti Veal pâté (see PÂTÉ). $eePATE).
ham in pastry à I'ancienne. JAMBON IRAGUE EN I l'ancienne. JAMBoN DE PRAGUE Prague
bam pAre.i L'ANcIENNE PÂTE À L'ANCIENNE - Poach the ham in water until it is
twothirds done. Drain, skin and glaze. put it, glazd si piece of When cold, it,
glazed side When de down, cold, put down, on on a a big piece (xe DOUGH), spread
with a layer Lining paste rolled-out Lining paste (see

in pastry à Prague ham l'ancienne d l'ancienne Prague haro in (Larousse\ (Larousse)

(q.v) of of vegetables have been of fine fine mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) which have
of vegetables which driod duxelles (q.v.) and softened softened in butter and mixed
with dried chopped truffies. Tum it ham in the pastry and and seal seal the edges.
Turn Enclose the harn and put into a a buttered baking tin, tin, sealed sealed si
side over and de down. Brush the the top top with with beaten egg, egg, and and
decorate with Brush with fancy pieces of Make a hole in the middle to allow steam
to pieces of pastry. Make ove,n for about 45 minutes. escape and bake in a hot oyen
(see into it it a Pour into few tablespoons of Pirigueux Périgueux sauce (see a few
middle. SAUCE) through the hole in the middle. Ham with sauerkraut. sauerkraut
JAMBON JAMBoN À A LA tl CHOUCROUTE cnoucRourE Ham - The sance same as Harn d
l'alsacienne. I'alsacienne. Serve with Demi-glace sauce sa me as Ham à Serve with
(see SAUCE) SAUCE) or a sauce based on Aisation Alsation wine. Aux ÉPINARDS Ham
with spinacb. spinach. JAMBON JAMBoN AUX tprNARDs - Braise the ham in butter, in
Madeira. Madeira. Serve with with leaf spinach cooked cooked in in butter, or
spinach cooked in stock. Serve with Demi-glace or chopped spinach (w SAUCE).
Madeira sauce (see

( Robert Carrier) Carrier) Ham in pastry (Robert

446 446
HARE HARE
Braise Braise the the ham ham in in Madeira. Madeira. Glazs Glaze and and surround
surround with with Financiire Financière garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES).
GARNISHES). Skim Skim off offsurplus surplus fat fat from liquor, boil boil down,
down, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over from the the braising braising
liquor,
the the ham. ham. HAMBLTRGER HAMBURGER STEAK' STEAK, (Austrellnngarian (Austro-
Hungarian cmkery). cookery). rrrKEFbrowned inbutter rsDEsTEDES-This Thisdishis dish
ismade made from from minced minced beef beefbrowned in butter or or fat. fat.
Similar Similar 'steaks' 'steaks' are are made made from from minced minced veal,
veal, poultry poultry and game. game. Here Here is is a a Hungarian Hungarian
recrpe recipe for for hamburger hamburger steak: steak: and I1 kg. kg. QI (2± lb.)
lb.) finely finely minced minced lean lean beef beef or or veal, veal, 10 10
rashers rashers chopped chopped bacon. bacon. Mix Mix the the beef beef or or veal
veal with with the the bacon bacon and and add add to to it it 200 200 g. g. (7 (7
oz.) oz.) of of crustless crustless bread bread soaked soaked in in milk milk and
and squeezed squeezed out. out. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper
and and grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. When When all aU the the ingredients
ingredients are are well weil mixd, mixed, divide divide into into pieces pieces of
of equal weight. weight. Shape Shape each each piece piece into into a a steak
steak 7J cm. cm. (3 (3 inch) thick. inches) inches) in in diameter diameter and and
2 2 cm. (nr (~inch) truck. Flour, Flour, and and fry fry in in fat. fat. When When
they they are cooked, cooked, dip dip in in concentrated concentrated meat meat
stock. stock. Serve Serve with with mashed mashed potatoes potatoes or other other
vegetables. vegetables. Hamburger Hamburger steak steak (German (German cookery).
cookery). KEFTEDES lŒFTEDES DE DE BoEUF BOEUf·Proceed Proceed as for for Hamburger
Hamburger steak (also (a/so called called d à l'allemande) l'allemande) (see (see
BEEF), BEEF), but but leave Ieave out the the chopped fried fried onions. onions.
pe BOEUf A Hamburger Hamburger steaks steaks à la berlinoise. berlinoise. KEFTEDEs
KEFTEDES DE nosuF À rA, LA BERLINoIsB Mince finely fine1y 300 300 g. g. (II oz.)
oz.) lean kan beef beef and and BERLINOlSE - Mince 75 e. g. Q (3 oz.) oz.) fat
bacon or salt pork' pork. Add Add 75 75 e. g. Q (3 oz.) oz.) soft soft 75 brcad
soaked soaked in milk milk and and squeezed dry. dry. Season Season with with salt,
salt, bread pepper and nutmeg and mix thoroughly. so that Divide the mixture into 4
parts. parts. Shape each each piece piece so that Dip in flour and fry in boiling
flal. Dip boiling lard. lard. Brown Brown it is round and flat. sauce (see Potn
Demi'glace sides. Pour on both the the steaks well weil on both sides. Demi-glace
sauce (see thern to serve. SAUCE) over them fat DE GIBIER cIBIERKEFTEDEs DE
hamburger steaks. KEFTEDES Game - Remove Remove fat Gare hamburger tableadding 1
tablegame. Minee Mince finely, the game. from the and fînely, adding and sinews
sinews from pieces into pieces spoon chopped onion browned in butter. butter,
Divide Divide into in Dip in shapes. Dip oval shapes. round or or oval little round
of equal size and pat into Iittle and sauce and an appropria appropriate butter.
Serve with an and fry in butter. flour and te sauce garnish. gamish. ProVoLAILLE .,
DE VOLAILLE KEFTEDES DE steaks. KEFTEDES Pooltry hamburger steaks. Poultry
bamburger - Propoultry for for substituting poultry hamburger steaks, substituting
for Game Gante hamburger ceed as as for game. game. York Yorkham hamiàIa
lafinnncilre" financière. JAMBoN JAMBOND'YoRK D'YORKA ÀI"q' LAFINANcGRE HNANCLÈRE-

fi

-
(ll

porbeagle. Type of of porbeagle. MARTEAU SHARK. MARTEAU HAMMERHEAD SHARK.

HAMMERHEAD - Type in sorne some eaten in and eaten leathery, is salted salted and
and leathery, is oily oily and Its flesh, flesh, which which is Its parts of of the
the world. world. parts

meat or or tenderising meat for tenderising Process for MoRTIFIER -- Process

HANGING. MORTIFIER HANGING. period. for a a period. hang for game by to hang
leaving it it to by leaving game very dry dry a cool, cool, well-ventilated, well-
ventilated, very in a hook in a hook Hang meat meat on on a Hang place. place.
highly flavoured flavoured flesh, highly with dark dark flesh, rodent with Wild
rodent t dvns - Wild HARE. LIÈVRERARE. than delicate than is more more delicate
hare is mountain hare The mountain to cal. eat. The and excellent excellent to and
plains. that of of the the plains. that ln doe. In a doe. the female female a and
the buck and a buck is called called a The male male hare hare is The afinancier;
is called called a young leveret to 3 3 months months is up to leveret up a young
France a France financier; year a a capucin capucin,or and at at aa year tois-
quarfs and to 6 6 months months aa Irois-quarts up to up or that fact that by the
the fact recognised by can he be recognised hares can Young hares lièvre ti|vre
fait. fait. Young prominence on on aa rounded prominence little rounded and bya by
a little easily and ears tear tear easily their ears their grows older. joint which
it grows older. as it disappears as which disappears leg joint under the the Ieg
bone bone under left if it it is isleft or, if isshot, shot,or, as it it is soon as
assoon fresb, as Hare can can he be eaten eaten fresh, Hare on the the depending on
killing, depending after killing, days after getcold, or three three days cold, two
two or to get to 'high'. year.It never be be eaten eaten 'rugh'. It must must never
of the the year. time of time fust inits itsfirst tenderin is always always tender
A hare hare is hare. A ahare. How 10 to choose choose a How stringy, andstringy,
tough and grows oider itsflesh flesh becomes becomes tough year. As older its
itgrows As it year. year. itssecond second year. in its tender in female is isstill
still tender the female but the but paws slenderpaws their slender by their
berecognised recognised by hares can can he First-year hares FirSI-year hares,
inolder older hares, which,in coat wruch, of their their coat thesmoothness
smoothnessof and by by the and greying. ofgreying. tracesof shows traces wavyaand
slightly wavy becomes slightly becomes nd shows fur of of the the thefur under the
hidden under claws, hidden young hare, theclaws, hare, the Inaayoung In

paws, paws, are are invisible. invisible. With With age, age, the the claws claws
grow grow and and project project slightly slightlybeyond beyond the thefur. fur.
Brie, of Beauce, those French French hares. hares. The The best best are are those
of Beauce, Brie, NorNormandy, mandy, Champagne Champagne and and Touraine.
Touraine, The The hares hares of ofnorthern northern France France and and Brittany
Brittany are are of ofinferior inferior quality. This is is due due to to the the
nature nature of of the the soil, soil, which which is is poor poor quality, This
feeding feeding ground ground for for hares. hares. golden The The hares hares of
of Beauce, Beauce, Brie Brie and and Champagne Champagne have have golden coats,
coats, the the colour colour of ofripe ripe corn. corn. The The hares hares of of
Normandy Normandy and and Touraine Touraine are are usually usually small' small,
with with tan tan coats, coats, darker darker than than those those of of Beauce,
Beauce, Brie Brie and and ChamChampagne. pagne. The The hares hares of of Brittany
Brittany are are small, small, and and have have very very dark dark tan tan coats
coats mottled mottled with with black. black. quality, fine are of France southern
hares of Many Many of of the the hares of southem Franee are of fine quality,
especially of P6rigord Périgord and and Gascony, Gascony, though though these these
are are especially those those of Paris. in sale on found to be seldom seldom to he
found on sale in Paris. English English hares. hares. Similar Similar to to those
those from from NormandyNomlandy. German German hares. !lares, Latger Larger than
than the the French French varieties varieties but but inferior inferior in in
flavour. Ilavour. For this dish Hare Hare i à I'allemande. l'allemande. r$vnr LŒVRE
A À r'ltLn'HNDE L'ALLEMANDE - For this dish the the saddle sadd le and and haunch
haunch ofthe of the hare hare are are used. used. Roast Roast the the hare hare in
in the the usual usual way way and and pour pour sour sour cream cream into into
the the roasting roasting pan. pan. separatelyserve Strain Strain the the sauce
sauce through through a a fine fine sieve sieve and and serve separately. (See
Sometimes Sometimes this trus sauce sauce is is poured poured over over the the
hare. hare. (See also also Saddle Saddle of of hare hare d à I'allemande
l'allemande below)below). Made of os LtivRE (colO. BALLoTTINE hare of Ballotine -
Made of BaIJotine of hare (cold). BALLOTTINE DE LiÈVRE pork fal, fat, foic slices
of slices of hare, hare, lean lean ham, ham, pickled pickled tongue, tongue, pork
foie gras, gras, of Galantine of same way stumng, in and hare truffies truffles and
hare stuffing, in the the same way as as Galantine GALANTINE). chicken cMcken (see
(see GALANTINE). DE la perigurdine of hare Ballottine @oQ. BALLoTTINE Ballottine of
bore à la périgourdine (hot). BALLOTTINE DE pfnrcounpn*son a young r-1,
PÉRlGOURDl1'-'E uivnr LŒVRE A Â LA - Bone Bone a young harehare. Spread Spread it
it on pork fat. Season with of pork slices of with thin covered with a cloth
covered a cloth thin slices fat. Season with of a layer with a it' Coyer Cover with
pour brandy over il. and pour salt and spiced salt spiced brandy over layer of
chopped with chopped a leveret, flesh of of a the fiesh game stuffing made from
stuffing made game from the leveret, with put altemate thin alternate thin stuffing
put of this this stuffing On top added. On truffies added. truffles top of in
butter, and browned thighs the from hare, cut of strips strips of hare, cut from
the trughs and browned in butter, pour Season and and pour gras and of truffles.
trufres. Season slices of and slices of /oie strips of strips foie gras of à ri
gratin a layer layer of with a Cover with ingredients. Coyer these ingredients.
over these brandy over brandy gratin roll into a a roll hare into Fold the the hare
(see FORCEMEAT). game stuffing FORCEMEAT). Fold stuffing (see game made stock made
braising stock Madeira braising in a a Madeira it in Braise it string. Braise tie
with with string. and tie and hare and and of the the hare trimmings of and
trimmings the bones bones and veal, the of veal, from shin shin of from hours' for
IJ lf hours. pot vegetables. Cook for vegetables. Cook usual pot and the the usual
leveret, and the leveret, the oven. in the the oyen. Brown in the string. string.
Brown remove hare and and rem the hare Drain the Drain ove the trufres shredded
truffles add shredded strain" add liquor, strain, the braising braising Iiquor,
down the Boil down Boil pour over the ballottine. ballottine. over the and pour and
young a young draw a and draw Skin and nn LIÈVRE lrivnn - Skin clvst DE of hore.
hare. CIVET Civef of Civet reliver, reput it the liver, it aside aside with with
the and put the blood blood and Collect the hare. Colleet hare. gall bladder.
bladder. the galJ moving the moving pieces. Put 4 pieces. 3 or or 4 into 3 the body
body into cutting the hare, cutting the hare, Joint the Joint Put powdered pepper,
thyme and powdered thyme and salt, pepper, with salt, season with in a a dislr,
dish, -season these in these table2 or 3 with Moisten onion. sliced onion. Moisten
with 2 or 3 tableAdd a a sliced leaf. Add bay leaf. bay this hare in in tbis the
hare Leave the brandy. Leave I tablespoon tablespoon brandy, and 1 oil and spoons
oil spoons hours. for 3 marinade marinade for 3 houTs. in butter butter parboil and
then brown brown in and then hare parboil medium-sized hare For aa medium-sized For
the from the Remove from squares. Remove into squares. cut into lean bacon, g.(7
bacon, eut oz.) lean 2AO g. 200 (7 oz.) quartered onions. Add onions' Add 2
quartered brown 2 butter, brown same butter, pan and, in the thesame and, in pan
with aa stirring with (3 tablespoons) flour. Cook, Cook, stirring tablespoons)
fiour. 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 2 golden colour. colouris aa golden flour is
the flour until the spoon until wooden wood en spoon the in the them in Brown them
dried. Brown pieces of well dried. hare, well of hare, the pieces Add the Add just
to cover red wine wine just enough red with enough Moisten with roux, stirring.
stirring. Moisten roux, to coyer (q.v.), to has been been garni(q.v.), to wruch
which has bouqtet garni Addaa bouquet the hare. hare. Add the for slowly for pan
and simmerslowly and simmer the pan garlic. Coyer Cover the ofgarlic, clove of
added aaclove added hour. to 1I hour. 45minutes minutes to 45 of skin skin
fragments of offany any fragments Scrape off hare.Scrape piecesof of hare. Drain
the the pieces Drain put in in andput sauoepanand out the the saucepan them.Clean
Cleanout to them. clinging 10 or bone bone clinging or 24 and24 onions braised on
24small small braised bacon, 24 thefcied fried bacon, Add the thehare. hare. Add
ions and the the tothe themarinade marinade to Add the butter.Add inbutter.
tossedin smallmushrooms mushrooms tossed smaU

447
HARE HARE
pour over cooking slock. stock.Slrain Strainand andpour pan overIbe the hare. hare.
Co Cover thepan eooking ver the and cook cook in inaamoderale moderateoyen oven for
for about about 45 45 minutes. minutes. and A few few minutes minutes before
beforeserving, serving, add add the thechopped liver to chopped liver to the the A
Thicken the civet.Thicken thesauce saucewith with the thehare's hare'sblood blood
mixed mixed with with 3 3 civet. or 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons fresh freshcream.
cream. or Garnish with with sliees slices of of bread bread cut cut into into the
the shape shapeof ofhearts, hearts, Gamish fried in in but butter. 1er. fried
Civetof of lIare hare au au chaudron. chaudron. CIVET osLIÈVRE crvrT DE uivRE AU
AUCHAUDRONcHAUDRoN Civet Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Civet Civet
of of hare, hare, except except that that the the Prepared hare is pot hanging
cooked in in a is cooked a pOl hanging frorn from a a hook hook in in the the
chimney chimney hare of an an open open wood wood tire. fire. Also, Also, the the
sauce sauce is is thickened thickened with with of kneaded butter (4 oz., butter
and and flour g. (4 flour -- 100 100 g. oz, -}* cup) cup) butter butter and and 2 2
kneaded (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour young hare. flour for for
a a young hare. tablespoons Garnish witb with blanched, blanched, coarsely coarsely
diced pork diced belly belly of of pork Garnish browned in in butter, butter, and
and small small onions. onions. browned Civef of of hare hare à la flamande. i la
flamande. CIVET crvET DE or LIEVRE rGvne À A LA LA FLAMANDE FLAMANDE Civet pieces
of Brown pieces hare in of hare in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle wilh with 2 2
lablespoons tablespoons -- Brown (3 tablespoons) /lour, flour, and and cook cook
for for a a few few seconds, seconds, stirring stirring (3 tablespoons) with a a
wooden woode,n spoon. spoon. with. (lf pints, generous Moisten with generous quart)
with 1 I litre litre (1 quart) red red wine wine to to ~ pints, Moisten which has
has been added the the liver liver rubbed been added rubbed through through a a
sieve, sieve, the the which ($ pint, pint, seant blood, and and 2 dl. G 2 dl. scant
cup) cup) vinegar. vinegar. Season Season with with salt salt blood, pepper. Add (l
oZ.,2 g. (1 and pepper. Add 25 25 g. o2.,2 tablespoons) tablespoons) brown brown
sugar sugar and and and garni(q.v.). large bouquet a large bouquet garni Cover, and
and cook cook for for 12 12 minutes. minutes. a (q.v.). Coyer, 4 on onions Add 4
finely sliced sliced and and tossed tossod in in butter. butter. Complete Complete
the the Add ions finely cooking in in the the oyen, pan covered. keeping the oven,
keeping the pan covered. cooking pieces of When the the pieces of hare hare are put
are cooked, cooked, drain, drain, dry, dry, and and put When pan. Sieve thern in in
a a frying frying pan. Sieve the the sauce sauce with pour with the the onions,
onions, pour them over the the hare hare and simmer for for a and simmer a few few
minutes. minutes. over Surround the the civet civet with with sliees slices of of
bread cut into into the the shape shape Surround bread cut jelly. of hearts,
hearts, fried frid in in butter butter and and spread spread with with redcurrant
redcurrant jelly. of Civet of of hare hare à i la la Iyollllaise. lyonnaise. CIVET
crvET DE nr LIÈVRE riivns À A LA ra LYONryoNCivet NArs Proceed as for ordinary as
for ordinary Civet Civet of of hare, hare, replacing replacing the the - Proceed
NAISE mushrooms chestnuts eooked by cbestnuts cooked in in stock stock and and
browned. mushrooms by browned. pn r$vns Harre cutlets CÔTELETrES c6rsrrrrgs DE
There are are three Hare cutlets. L!F.VRE - There three preparing different ways of
hare cutlets. different ways of preparing hare cutlets. l. Make croquette forcemeat
1. Make a a croquette forcemeat using using scraps scraps of of hare, hare,
mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies, truffies, blended blended with with a a thick
thick brown brown or or white Shape into white sauce. sauce. Leave Leave to 10
cool. cool. Shape into cutlets, cutlets, and and cook cook in in clarified
clarified butter. butter. Serve Serve with with a a game game sauce. sauce. 2.
quarter of of 2. Chop Chop finely finely the the raw raw flesh /lesb of of a a
hare. hare. Add Add a a quarter its its weight weight of of bread, bread, soaked
soaked and and squeezod squeezed dry, dry, and and the the same same quantity
quantity of of butter. butter. Season Season well. weIl. Shape Shape the the
mixture mixture into into cutlets. eullets. Flour Flour them them and and fry fry
in in clarified clarificd butter. butter. Serve Serve with with Demi-glace Demi-
glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on conconcentrated
centrated game game stock. stock. 3. 3. Using Using raw raw hare, hare, make make a
a forcemeat foreemeat with wilh bread bread boiled boiled to to a a pulp, mou Ids
and and poach. poach. pulp, and and butter. butter. Fill Fil! buttered butlered
cutlet cutlet moulds Serve of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish
Garnish to to taste. taste. Serve on on pieces pieces of Pour Pour over over therr
them a a brown brown or or white white sauce sauce based based on on
conceneoncengame stock. trated trated game stock. Fillets FlLETS oE DE utvnE LIÈVRE
- Fillet Fillet a a raw raw saddle saddle of of Fillets of of hare. hare. FrLErs
hare hare so so that Ihat the the meat meat comes cornes away away in in long long
slices. slices. Remove Remove the the tendons. tendons. Interlard Interlard with
with best best lardoons. lardoons. Season Season and and put put the the fillets
fillets in in a a baking baking dish. dish. Pour Pour melted melted butter butter
and and a a little little brandy brandy over over them them and and bake bake in in
a a moderate moderate oven. oyen. Serve of bread bread fried fried in in butter.
butter. Garnish Garnish Serve each each fillet fillet on on a a slice slice of
according according to to the the recipe reeipe used. used. Mask Mask with with a a
sauce sauce suitable suitable for for ground game. ground game. The The filets
filets mignons, mignons, the the slender slender strips strips of of meat meat
inside inside the the saddle, ean be be prepared prepared in in the the same same
way way as as the the larger larger fillets. fiUets. sadd le, can Usually, Usually,
however, however, they they are are left left with with the the larger larger
fillets. fi.lIets. GarGarnishes hare are nishes and and sauces sauces for for
Saddle Saddle of ofhare are suitable suitable for for fillets. fillets. In ln some
sorne restaurants, restaurants, special special enfiies entrées are are made made
with wilh fillets fillets ofhare. of bare. They They are are folded folded into
into crescent crescenl shapes shapes and and cooked cooked as as indicated
indicated above. above. They Theyare arethen then presented presented on
onaafoundation foundation of of Mousseline Mousselineforcemeat forcemeat (see (see
FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) made made from from the the remaining remainingmeat meat of
ofthe the hare, hare, and and served served with with garnishes garnishes such such
448 448
asFinancière, Finan cib r e,Périgourdine, (seeGARNISHES). P b r ig our dine,
Rossini, Ro s s ini,etc. etc.(see GARNI SHES). as All Ihese these entrées, enfiees,
whicb which are are in in the grande cuisine, therealm realmof ofgrande cuisine,are
AU are served with with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), sauce(see SAUCE),
based based on served on conconcentrated stock stock made madefrom from the the
bones bones and and trimmings trimmings of of the the centrated hare. hare. Filleb
of of hare hare Ill! enchaud-froid. chaud-froid. f1LETS FTLETS DE or LIÈVRE rdvne
EN Fillets EN CHAUDcHAUDFRoID -- Stud Stud the the fillets fillets with with
trumes. truffies. Fold Fold into into the theshape shape of FROID of crescents. Sim
Simmer in Madeira Madeira and and leave leave to tocool. cool. Mask Mask with
crescenlS. mer in with aa brown or or white white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce
(ser-,SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) based brown based on on concentratd stock. stock.
concentrated Decorate with with truffies, trufres, the the whites whites of of
hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs or Decorate or jelly and garnish. Glaze jelly
other garnish. Glaze with with jelly pour over and pour over clear other clear
jelly flavoured with with Madeira Madeira or or sorne some other other heavy heavy
wine. wine. flavoured Fillets of of bare hare in in cream. cream. FILETS FTLETs DE
os LIÈVRE uivRE À A LA ra CRÈME Fillets cnirr,re -Interlard the the fillets.
fillets. Sleep Steep Ihem them for for 1 I hour hour in in a a marinade of marinade
of Interlard pepper and brandy, oil, oil, salt, salt, pepper and spices. spices.
Proceed Proceedas asfor brandy, for Saddle Saddle of of (q.v.). hare à d
['allemande I'allemande (q.v.). hare pn LIÈVRE Fillets of hare Il la Llcullus. of
bare lacullus. FlLETS i la FTLETS DE rdvnr À A LA ra LUCULrucurFillets rus --
Decorate Decorate the the fillets fillets of pickled tongue of hare hare with with
pickled tongue and and LUS truffies eut cut in in the the shape shape of of cocks'
cocks'combs and dipped dipped in trumes combs and in white white of egg. egg. Foid
Fold Ihem them inlo into crescent crescent shapes gently in shapes and and simmér
simmel gently of in and butter. butter. brandy and Drain the the fillets. fillets.
Arrange Arrange them them in pastry cru in a a flaky flaky pastry crust Drain st
filled with (q.v.) with a a salpicon salpicon (q. gras blended truffies and
afr,foie v.) of trumes foie gras filled blended with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce
(see (see SAUCE) based based on on concentrated with game stock. stock. game
Fillets of of bare hare sautéed saut6ed with with tmffles. trufres. ALETS FTLETS DE
on LIÈVRE rdvnn Fillets slurEs AUX AUX TRUFFES TRUFFEs the fillets into sliees.
slices. Season, Season, and SAUTEs - Cut the brown Ihem them in in butter, butter,
taking taking care care that that they they keep keep their their brown pinkish
pinkish colour. Drain. Toss Toss 12 truck thick strips of tfume truffie in the
cooking butter, buttei Drain. so that they are barely cooked. Put these on the
slices of so hare. ofhare. Pour a litlle little Madeira Madeira into into the and
add add a Pour a the cooking pan pan and a few few tablespoons Demi-glace (se
SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) based tablespoons Demi-glace sauce based on concentrated
game stock. Pour over the pieces of hare. Plt6 ofhare. nr LIÈVRE rGvnn ahare. Pâté
of hare. pAr6 PÂTÉ DE - Bone a hare. Set aside the breast meat, the filets mignonr
mignons and and the the loins. loins. Remove the gristle gristJe from from these
tbese parts parts and interlard interlard them them with with best best lardoons.
lardoons. Season Season with with Spiced sa& salt (see (see SALT). SALT). Steep
Steep in in a a brandy brandy marinade, of fine fine strips strips of fresh
marinade, adding adding equrl equal quantities of ham (not (not smoked), fresh pork
pork fat and quartered truffies. trumes. Make Make a a forcemeat with the rest rest
of of the Ihe meat meat as as described described in the Game forcemeat forcemeat
(see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCE MEAT). Rub the recipe for for Garne througb through a a
sieve. Bind Bind with the the hare's hare's blood. blood. Grease Grease a a hinged
hinged mould mould with butter. butter. Line Line with with pastry Pastry dough
dough (see (see PASTRY). PASTRY). Cover Coyer the the dougb dough with with rhin
thin slices of larding larding bacon. bacon. Line Line the the bottom botlom and
and sides sides with with a a layer layer of of hare hare forcemeat. forcemeat.
Alternate Alternate the the meats, meats, truffies, trumes. etc. etc. on this this
foundafoundation tion of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Coyer with with a a layer
layer of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Continue Continue to to fill fill the the mould
mould with with alternate alternate layers layers of of meat meat and and
forcemeat, forcemeat, finishing tinishing with of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Cover
with with a a thin thin slice sUce of of pork pork fat. fat. with a a layer layer
of Put of rolled-out rolled-out pastry pastry on on top, top, pressing pressing the
the edges edges of of Put a a layer layer of the the dough dough together together
to to seal. seal. Flute Flute the the edges. edges. Decorate Decorate the the top
top with with dough dough motifs motifs and and make make a a hole ho le in in the
the middle middle to to allow allow the the steam steam to to escape escape during
during baking. baking. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Bake in the
Ihe oven, oyen, allowing allowing 15 15 to to 20 20 minutes minutes per peT 500 500
g. g. Bake in (l (l lb.) lb.) Leave Leave the the pdtC pâté to to cool cool in in
the the mould. mould. When When it it is is cold cold pour pour a a few few
tablespoons tahlespoons of of Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured meat meat jelly
jelly into If the Ihe pdtd pâté is is to to be be kept kept for for any any length
length of of time, time, into it. il. If jelly. substitute substitute a a mixture
mixture of ofbutter butter and and lard lard for for the thejelly. Hare Harepdti
pâté must must be be made made at at least least 24 24 houn hours before before
serving. serving. Potted Pottedhare. hare. rrnnrNs TERRINEDE DELrtvRBLIÈVRE - Made
Madefrom from strips stripsof ofhare, bare, porkfat,foie pork fat,foie gras, gras,
trufres trumes and and hare hare stuffing, stuffing, in in the the same sameway way
as asPotted Po lied&rc& duck (see (seeTERRINE). TERRINE). Roast Roastlegs legsof
ofhare. hare. curssEs CUISSESos DE rGvRE LIÈVREndrresRÔTIES - Remove Remove the the
tendons tendons from from a a hare's hare's legs. legs. Stud Stud with with best
best larding larding bacon bacon to to form form rosettes, rosettes, and and roast
roast them. them. Serve Serve with with Poiyrade Poivrade sauce sauce
HASH HASH
(see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and Chestnut Chestnut purie purée (see CHESTNUT).
CHESTNUT). Ail recipes recipes for saddle saddle of of hare hare are suitable for
the legs. legs. All Saddle of of hare. hare. nAnr,n RÂBLE pn DE lrivnn LIÈVRE - For
For a baron baron of of hare hare the Saddte w hale body body of of the the hare
hare from the the base base of of the the neck neck to the tail tail is whole

used; but but for for the the saddle alone, alone, the the portion of of the the
trunk used; wruch ends ends at the top top of of the thigh thigh is served. which
is one of of the most most delicate parts of the hare. Before This is cooking it it
remove all ail the thin membrane which covers the fiesh. flesh. pork fat or studded
The saddle saddle is barded barded with with a thin slice slice of ofpork The with
truffes. truffies. with served with Sadd le of of hare hare is is generally
generally roasted roasted and and served Saddle (see Poivrade sauce sauce (se (see
SAUCE) SAUCE) and and Chestnut Chestnut purie purée (see Poivrade CHESTNUT), which
which are served separately. separately. CHESTNUT), I-IivRE A l'aUemande. nAsLE
RÂBLE oe DE LIÈVRE À L'ALLnL'ALLESaddle of hare à I'allemande. MANDE - Interlard
the saddle with best lardoons. Steep for 2 MANDE marinade (q.v.). hours in a raw
marinade Dry the marinated vegetables vegetables in a a roasting pan. pan. Dry Put
the marinated a hot oyen. oven. When saddle of hare and lay it on top. Roast in a
saddle saddle is almost cooked, take take out the vegetables. Pour the the saddle
pint, scant cup) marinade over over the the hare hare and 2 dl. dl. (i and add add
2 marinade $ pint, cream. cream. squeeze sorne some lemon into serving dish,
squeeze Place the saddle on serving pour it over the hare. hare. Serve Serve with
the cream cream sauce, strain, and pour redcurrant jelly or unsweetened apple
sauce. redcurrant pn LIÈVRE uivnr AU Saddle of hare nAsrs DE eu hare au au
chambertin. chambertin. RÂBLE Saddle of oven, taking CHAMBERTIN - Interlard the
saddle. Roast in the oyen, cHAMBERTIN pinkish colour. care that it retains its
pinkish Fry a slice of forced gratin game forceof bread and spread it with à (sa
FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Lay the saddle on on top. top. Garnish meat (see with
mushrooms cooked in belly of of in butter, butter, small strips of belly thick
pork, pork, parboiled and fried frid in butter, and truffies cut into truck (se,
SAUCE), to which strips. Mask with with Chambertin Chambertin sauce (see been
added. wine, have been the pan juices, diluted with red wine, pe LIÈVRE Saddle of
hare, roast. rSvRE RÔTI nOn Interlard the nAsr,n DE roast. RÂBLE - Interlard
saddle. Roast a spit, spit, for 18 l8 ta to 20 minutes, or on a Roast in a a hot
oyen oven for allowing an extra 2 2 to to 5 5 minutes. Garnish witha lemon. Make
Make of watercress and halfa lemon. bunch ofwatercress with a bunch a cut with with
a a slices of lemon and beetroot cut a border of alternate slices fiuted thin or a
a thin diluted cooking cooking juices or with the the diluted knife. Serve with
fluted knife. Poivrade sauce (see SA UCE). SAUCE). Hare hare in in the the os
LIÈVRE rItvRE - Made with with hare Hare soufflé. soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sourrr,6 DE (see
SOUFFLÉ). same way as SOUFFLE). souffie (see as Chicken soufflé

Crush the paws paws of of the hare hare and remove rem ove the the tendons.
tendons. InterInterlard the fillets and legs with with best lardoons. lardoons. (7
oz.) g. (7 to this 200 g. Chop the liver, heart and lungs. Add Add ta g. (4 oz.)
fresh pork fat, gras and fresh pork fat, 100 and 100 g. (4 raw goose./oie goosefoie
gras 100 g. (4 oz.) bread I tablespoon dry, 1 squeezed dry, bread soaked in stock
and squeezed until tender tender and chopped onion cooked very slowly in butter
butter until (5 oz.) garlic, 150 g. (5 150 g. very little left cool, a a very left
to to cool, little pounded pounded garlic, parsley. Bind pinch of Bind this this of
chopped parsley. a pinch chopped trufres trufHes and a Season weil. well. stuffing
with the blood of the hare. hare. Season up the the skin skin so so as as to to Sew
up mixture. Sew Stuff the hare with this mixture. Stuff in a a little little white
white and truss the hare. Braise in hold the stuffing in and frequently. Brown
Brown the the hare wine for about 2 hours, basting frequently. a it. Add to the
braising stock a and untie it. in the oyen. oven. Drain and (see SA sauce (see
SAUCE) based on few Demi-glace sauce UCE) based few tablespoons Demi-glace (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 concentrated game
stock and (5 oz.) g. (5 or diced oz.) shredded or and add add 150 g. Armagnac.
Armagnac. Strain, and the hare. truffes. Pour this this sauce s.uce over the
truffies. in red wine. oftsn braised braised in This dish is often rdvnr ÉTOFFÉ
frorse À A LA rA' perigurrdine (cold). LIÈVRE hare à la la périgourdine Stufred
hare Stuffed pEnrcounorxn slitting it it along the back before a hare, slitting
PÉRIGOURDINE - Bone a Draw remains intact. intact. Draw drawing it, so that the
skin of the belly remains drawing shoulders. it and cut off the legs and shoulders.
Keep the and blood. blood. Keep heart, kidneys and the liver, liver, heart, Set
aside aside the Set prevent it it from from tablespoon vinegar to prevent a bowl,
with 1 tablespoon blood in a clotting. c1otting. some and shoulders, shoulders,
sorne the thighs and the boned boned meat meat of the Using the Using pork fat,
fat, make make aGame a Game forcemeat and pork veal, fresh fresh pork and lean
veal, quarter of of (see FORCEMEAT). of its its weight weight of this a a quarter
to this Add to FORCEMEAT). Add (see (see FORCEMEAT), from the the made from gratin
forcemeat FORCEMEAT), made d gratin à forcemeat (see quantity of equal quantity of
an equal of the hare with an liver, heart and kidneys of and 2 2 well. Add Add
spices spices and Season weil. with 2 2 eggs. eggs. Season raw foie Bind with raw
foie gras. Bind (3 tablespoons) brandy. tablespoons) brandy. tablespoons (3
tablespoons (see SALn and sprinkle sprinkle salt (see SALT) and Spiced salt hare
with with Spiced Season the the hare Season top. In In the the on top. a layer
layer of of stuffing stuffing on Put a a little little brandy. brandy. Put with
with a veal of lean lean veal thin strips strips of lay alterna alternate stuffing
lay middle of of the the stuffing middle te thin grat seasoned with seasoned with
of foie thin strips strips of browned in butter, butter, thin browned in foie gras
pork fat fat of pork lardoons of with brandy, brandy, lardoons spiced spiced salt
salt and and moistened moistened with (or blanched a with a pieces of pork) and
truffie. Coyer Cover with and pieces of trufHe. (or blanched salt salt pork) and
stuffing. layers of meat and stuffing. of meat layer of Add further further layers
layer of stuffing. stuffing. Add it in in a a c10th cloth sew it it up. up. Wrap
Wrap it shape and and sew Fold the the hare hare into into shape Fold (q.v.). Cook
in a a strong strong Cook in of a a ballottine ballottine (q.v.). and and tie tie
it it in in the the shape shape of be should be This stock stock should Madeira.
This game stock flavoured with with Madeira. game stock fiavoured the trimmings of
of the prepared in bones and and trimmings the bones in advance, using the prepared
advance, using (or bacon pork skin rinds) and and fresh pork skin (or bacon rinds)
hare, knuckle ofveal, ofveal, fresh hare, a a knuckle foot. calf's foot. a boned
and and blanched blanched calf's a boned gently for hours. When for about l! hours.
it When it about I! hare very very gently Simmer Simmer the the hare put it in the
it, then it back back in the cloth, cloth, then put is cooked, and unwrap unwrap
it, is cooked, drain drain and Next day, day, unwrap unwrap a weight. weight. Next
under a wrapping wrapping it it tightly. tightly. Cool Cool under jelly croûtons.
jelly. Surround crofitons. with jelly Surround with the the hare. hare. Glaze Glaze
with with jelly. p6rigourdine en cabessal or or chabessal. chabessal. m cabessal
Stuffed hare à la la périgourdine Stufrd hare pfuicouRDINE EN EN CABESSAL,
cABEssAL, CHABESSAL CHABESSAL LIÈVRE rrtvnn FARCI r,c,Rct À A LA PÉRIGOURDINE pork
and and ham, harn" seasoned seasoned veal, fresh fresh pork Stuff a hare of veal,
fillet of Stuffa hare with with fiUet garlic. Sew the skin. skin. pepper, spices,
Sew up up the shallots and and garlic. with spices, shallots with salt, salt,
pepper, into aa ring, ring, the the red wine. Tied into in red wine. Tied Bard hare
and and braise braise in Bard the the hare (The cabessal was cabessal was hare
essai or or chabessal. chabessal. (The to be be en en cab cabessal hare is is said
said to heads to to wore on on their their heads the which women women wore folded
ring ring of of c10th cloth which the folded jars of pails or support or jars of
water.) water.) support pails garlic and and with garlic liver with the liver Bone
Pound the hare. Pound Bone the the braised braised hare. little blood and and aa
little blend Add the the hare's hare's blood the sauce. sauce. Add blend it it into
into the vinegar. vinegar. popular in in preparing hare leveret is is popular This
hare or or leveret of preparing This method method of region. Périgord, Aveyron
region. and in in the the Aveyron P6rigord, and

i n

17th preparing hare for preparing hare à i la la royale royale I 7th century
century terrine terrine for

Stuffed (P6rigord p6rigourdine or la royale royale (Périgord or à i la la

périgourdine hare à i la Stuffd hare pfuicounplNE, À cookery). LA, ROYALE RoYALE -A
LA A LA u PÉRIGOURDINE, rGvnE FARCI renq À cookery). LIÈvRE high-sounding ln the
high-sounding this dish dish bears bears the region this In the the Périgord
P6rigord region title royale. title of liivre à d la la royale. of lièvre When and
set the blood blood and set it it hare, collect collect aU all the the hare, When
drawing drawing the aside be used used later. later. which wiU will be the
stuffing, stuffing, which aside ta to bind bind the
449 M9

DE MOUTON MouroN -- Mutton Mutton HARICOT rHmcor DE MUTTON. HARICOT HARICOT OF OF

MUTTON. (See MUTTON.) potatoes. (See MUTTON.) stew and potatoes. turnips and stew
made made with with turnips

HASH. made from from left-overs left-overs of of hash is is usually usually made
HAcHIs -- A A hash HASH. HACHIS or shell-fish, shell-fish, poultry, fish fish or
scraps pork, veal, veal, poultry, scraps of beef, mutton, of beef, mutton, pork,
and prepared in in various various ways. ways. is prepared and is
HASH HASH

nif themeat meat verysmall, small,rather ratherthan thanmince minceit. it.In Intrus
thisway, way, Dice the itwill willtaste taste better and look more appetising.
French hashis it better look more appetising. French hashes are usually usually
blended blended with withwhite white or orbrown brownsauces. sauces.Hashes Hashes
are made from left-overs of roast or pot-roasted meat must not made from left-overs
of roast or meat must not boil after after the thesauce saucehas has been been
added, but butshould shouldonly onlybe be boil wanned up upover overaalow low
flame. flame. Hashes Hashes made madefrom from boiled boiledor or warmed
braisedmeat meatshould shouldsimmer simmer on onthe thestove stovefor foraatime.
time. braised Hashes piledinside are piled insideaaborder border of ofDuchess
Duchess pOlaloes potatoes(see (see Hashes are POTATOES), orsprin~Jed sprinkled with
withbreadcrumbs breadcrumbsand andbrowned, browned, or served served in inaa border
of pilaf or ofpilaf orrisotto. risotto. or Sometimes hash hash is is served servod
in piedish inaapie garnish with dish as asaagamish with Sometimes hard-boiled,
poached poachodor orcoddled coddled eggs. eggs. hard-boiled, Boitd beef beef bash
hash1. I. HACHIS H,lcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF- - Dice Dice very veryfinely finely
Boiled (18 oz., S.m g. (18 oz., 4 4 cups) boiled boiled beef beef scraps. Bind Bind
with withH l| dl. dl. 500 Demi-glace sauce sauce (se S-eUCf), cover Q pint, 3 cup)
Ueml--f!lI'lCe cover-and and bring to to the boil. Cook in in the the oven oven for
25 ?Sminutes. minutes. Stir Stir from from time to to time time and and add add aa
few few tablespoons tablespoons demi-glace demi-glaceif rfthe the time sauce
appears appears too too truck. thick. sauce Boil€d beer beef hash haslr n. II.
HACHIS H.lcnrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Slowly cook 2 2 Boi1ed (3 tablespoons) chopped
onion tablespbons (3 onion in in 1I tat,les.poon tablespoon tablespoons butter
until until very tender. Sprinkle with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon flour. butter
Brown. Add Add 2 2 dl. (~ pint, scant scant cup) cup) veal veal stock, stock,
season season and and $ pint, Brown. bring to to the the boil, boil, stirring
stirring aIl all the the time. time. Simmer Simmer for for 15 15minutes. minutes.
bring Dice the the boiled boiled beef beef very finely finely and ard add add to to
the the mixture. mixture. Dice Proceed as as indicated indicated in previous
recipe. in the previous Proceed proCtu?id beer beef hash ha$ 1. I. HACHIS nic.curs
DE DE BOEUF BoEUF A L'INDIENNE r'rNorsNNE -- ProCurried ceed as as for for Roast
Roast beef (see below). beef hash hash (see below). Bind Bind the the diced diced
meat meat ceed with Curry (see, SAUCE). Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Serve Serve
in in a a border border of of rice. rice. with Serve with with curry sauce. Serve
pr BOEUF Currid beef ha$ n. U. HACHIS HAcHrs DE noeuF À A L'INDIENNE I'TNoleNNE --
Cook Cook Curried (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped
chopped onion onion in in 1 I tablespoon tablespoon 2 butter until until very very
tender. tender. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 1 I teaspoon teaspoon curry iurry
butter po-wder and and 1 I tabtespoon tablespoon flour. flour. Add ($ pint, Add2
pint, scant dl. (t scant cup) cup) powder 2 dl. white stock stock or or broth.
broth. Mix Mix weIl. well. Cook Cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. white Add the
the finely diced diced beef. beef. Serve Senre in in a a border border of of rice
rice with with Add (se, SAUCE). Curry sauce sauce (see Beef haslr witb widr herbs.
herbs. HACHIS HAcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF AUX Arlx FINES FrNEs HERBESHERBEs Proceod as
as for for Roast (se below). Roast beef beef hash hash (see below). Just Just
before Proceed serving sprinkle with with 1 I tablespoon tablespoon of chopped
parsley and and 1 I serving sprinkle tablespoon chopped chervil. chervil. Boef hrsh
i la soEUF À i LA HONGROISE HoNcRorsE HACHIS DE BOEUF la hongroise. HAcHrs Proceed
(see below). Bind Roast beef beef hash (see Bind the the diced Proceed as as for
for Roast meat SAUCE). meat with with Hungariot sguce (see (see SA UCE). Bed DE
BOEUF BoEUF À A L'ITALIENNE L'rr,q.Llsl.rNg Beer hash bash i à I'italienne. HAcHrs
HACHIS DE Proceod (see beJow). below). Bind with ltalian Proceed as as for for
Roast Roast beef beef hash (see sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (se Be€f Beer hrsh
basb i à la la languedocienne. languedocienne. HAcHrs HAGHIS os DE soruF BOEUF A À
r.a LA LANGTJEDocTENNE (se Roast beef hash hash (see LANGUEDOCIENNE - Proceed
Proceed as as for for Roast below). below). Add Add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon
chopped chopped parsley parsley and a little grated garlic. garlic. Serve Serve on
on a a layer of of sliced aubergines saut6ed sautéed in in oil oil or butter.
butter. Smooth Smooth the surface of of the the hash. Surround with a very Tomato
fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE). Sprinkle with very thick thick Tomato breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and and cheese. chee se. Pour Pour melted mehed butter over over it it
and brown. brown. Beef Beef hash hash ià Ia la lyonnaise. H.lcHrs HACHIS DE DE
BoEUF BOEUF A À ra LA ryoNLYONNAIsE NAISE - Proceed Proceed as as for Beef Beefhash
hash d cl la la languedocienne, languedocienne, binding binding the the diced diced
meat meat with with Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve
Serve with with a a border border of ofDuchess Duchesspotatoes potatoes (see (see
pOTATOES). POT A TOES). Decorate Decorate the the top with with friod fried onion
onion rings. rings. Becf Beer ha$ bash ià la Parmentier. Pannentier. rrlc,cnrs
HACHIS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF iÀ r-,c. LA pARPARMENTIER MENTIER - Proceed Proceed as as
for for Roast Roast beef beefhash hash (see (see below). below). Serve Serve in in
large, large, partly partly scooped-out scooped-out baked baked potatoes. potatoes.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Pour Pour melted melted
butter butter over; over; brown brown in in oven. oven. Beef Beerhash hasb with
with poached eggs. HAcHrs HACHIS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF Ar.rx AUX oEUFs OEUFS
pocsfsPOCHÉS - Proceed as as for for Boiledbeefhash beef hash II. Il. Garnish
Garnishwith with well-drained weIl-drained poached poached eggs. eggs. If If
desired, desired, cover cover with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (ser', (see
SAUCE). SA UCE).
450 450

poloNArspolonrise.HACHIS Bedhash la HAcHrsDE DE BoEUF r-a Boo bash à ila polonaise.

BOEUF ÀA LA POLONAISE Proceedas asfor forRoast (see Roastbeef beef hash(see
below).Garnish Garnish with Proceed hash below). witb poached eggsand and
Tomatosauce (seSAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). poacbed Tomato ponruBcef hffih la h
portugaise.HACHIS HAcHrsDE DE BoEUF r.lPORTUBeer BOEUF ÀA LA cArsn -Proceed
Proceedas (see as for Roastbeefhash beef hash(see below). Bindwith with
GAISEbelow). Bind (seeSAUCE). Tonutosauce sauce(see SAUCE). Tomato Coverthe
thebottom bottomof ofan anovenproof ovenproofearthenware earthenware dishwith Cover
dish with slicesof oftomato tomatotossed tossedin inbutter butteror oroil. oil.
Spreadtbe thebash hash slices over over thetomatoes. tomatoes.Cover Coverwith witha
afurtber furtherlayer layer of tomatoescooked the cooked thesa intbe same
way.Sprinkle Sprinklewith withbreadcrumbs breadcrumbsand andseason in me way.
seasonwith with garlic.Pour touchof ofgarlic. Pourmelted meltedbutter butteror
oroil oilover overthe aatouch thetop and topand brownin inthe theoven. oven. brown
Be€fbash hashwith potatoes. HACHIS wittpotatoes. HAcHrsDE DEBOEUF BoEUFEN Beef
BORDURE EN BoRDURE Proceed as asfor (seebelow). forRoast Roastbeefhash beef
hash(see below). Proceed pOTAPiletbe hashin thebasb inaaborder borderof ofDuchess
Duchess pOlatoes potatoes(see (seePOT APile TOES). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with
breadcrumbs grated cbeese. breadcrumbsand andgrated cheese. Brush theborder
borderwitb withbeaten pouron beatenegg, egg,pour onmehed meltedbutter butterand and
brown. brown. Be€fhasb hsshwith with masbed potatoes.HACHIS mashod potatoes. Beer
HAcHrs DE usBOEUF sotsuFÀALA r.A, prnfs DE poMMEs DE DEPOMMES DETERRE rERRE- Mix g.
(lI oz.) PURÉE Mix300 300g. oz.)2± cups) etcups) ponto finely diced diced boiled
(7oz., boiled beef beefwith with 200 g.(7 finely 200g. oz.,scant scantcup)
cup)Potato puree (see (see POT POTATOES). puree ATOES). Season. Season.Arrange
Arrange in inaabuuered buttered ovenproof earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Cover
ovenproof Cover with with aathin thin layerof ofthe the potatoes.Smooth potatoes.
Smooth the the surface, surface, sprinkle witb with hr~·"rl{'rl1lrnl~" breadcrumbs
and grated cheese, pour melted cheese, pour and melted butterover overand andbrown.
brown. This bash hash can prepared in can he be prepared me way inthe the sa puree
of same waywith with purée of white or or red red haricot haricot beans, white
beans, lentils lentils or peas. orsplit split peas. Roast bOO beef basb. hash.
HACHIS Roast HAcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEuF - Dice Dioe the the beef beef very finely.
Bind Bind with with boiling finely. boiling Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see,
SAUCF). sauce (see Heat in in a a double double saucepan saucepan and Heat andserve
semein inaa piedish. dish. porssoNsFish basb. hish. HACHIS HAcHrs DE - Use Fish DE
POISSONS Use finely diced diccd piecesof of cooked fish fish (cod, turbot, cooked
turbot brill, brill, sole sole or or salmon). salmon). Bindwith with vegetable-
based Velouté, Velouti, Béchamel, Bichamel, or or any any other other sauce sauce
suitable for fish (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fish basb hash is Fish is often used pastry
boats, used as as a a filling filling for for pastry boats, large large or or
(q.v.), tartlets, small vol-au-vent vol-au-vent (q.v.), small tartlets, etc. etc.
porr, - Made ground gsme. HACHIS Hash Hash of of ground HAcHrs DE DE GlBIERS
crBrERs DE DE POIL - Made from left-overs from left-overs ofbraised venison,
venison, or or roast roast roebuck, roebuck, deer deer or or goat. Bind wild goat.
wild Bind with with a a brown brown stock stock to to which which ESjrJa~~nole
Espagnole game essence, sauce with sauce with game essence, Demi-glace Demi-glace
sauce sAuce or or n<C'UIOua, Madeira, has has (see SAUCE). been been added added
(see SAUCE). Hasb - Made Hash of of winged winged game" HACHIS HAcHrs DE DE GmIERS
GrBrERs DE DE PLUME rLUMEMade from from left-overs left-overs of game, game,
braised, braised, pot-roasted or roast (pheasant, hazel grouse, paU •.lUI","'J.
These are cooked in hazel grouse, partridge). white stock which which is is
thickened thickened with Allemande. Allemande, Béchamel Bichamel or or Velouté
Veloutd sauce (see, SAUCE), whicb sauce (see has been which bas bee,n boiled boiled
down down with concentrated game game stock. stock. Tbey They can can also also be
be cooked cooked in in brown stock, to to wruch which Demi-glace, Demi-glace,
Madeira or or Salmi Salmi sauce sauce (see SAUCE) are added. This hash hash is most
,",VIIUJJI!VI'UJ commonly used used as a filling for vol-auas a vent,pies or
tartlets, and can also be be served served on on friod bread. Lobster and Lobster
ad shellfisb shellfish bash. hash. HACHIS necnn DE DE HOMARD HoMARD - Made Made
from lobster lobster or or any from any other other similar similar shellfish,
shellfish, finely finely diced, diced, mixed with warmed up and mixed with Velouté,
Velouti, Béchamel Bicharnel or or any other other sauce suitable for fish and
sbellfish shellfish served served hot hot (see SAUCE). Shellfish hash is used used
as as a filling for pastry a filling for pastry boats, large or small vol-au-vent,
tartlets, etc. etc. Mutton or or lad lamb hash. basb. slcsrs HACHIS DE DE MouroN,
MOUTON, D'AGNEAU Muttm D'AcNEAU Use - Use roast, braised or boiled boiled left-
overs of or mutton. roast, of lamb lamb or mutton. Ali All beef are suitable for
mutton or lamb hasb. for recipes for beef suitable for mutton or lamb hash. HACHIS
DE poRcPORC - Made Made from from left-overs left-overs of of roast, roast,
Porkhash. HAcHTsDE braised or or boiled boiled pork. Use Use a a suitable suitable
recrpe recipe for for beef beefbash braised if a hash ifa brown sauce is usod,
used, or or use use a a white white saue sauce and and follow follow the the brown
for Veal Veal hash hash d à I'allemande. l'allemande. recipe for basb. H.,lcwrs
HACHIS DE DE vor,Arr,rx VOLAILLE Use left-over pieces of of Poultry hash. - Use
left-over braised, stewed, stewed, pot-roasted or or roast roast poultry. This dish
is braised, usually made made with a a white white sauce, sauce, as as described
de~;cr:ibed in in the the recrpe usually Veal hash hash d à I'allemodq l'allemande,
but but it it may may also also be be made made with for Veal for

(ll

-
H'AZEL GROUSE HAZEL
brown stock as described described in the recipes for beef hash. Poultry hash
Creatn or basb ri à blanc bas Allemande, Bicharnel, Béchamel, Cream Velouti Velouté
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) added. added. It lt must must be be heated heated in a
double saucepan. saucepan. a wbite Poultry hash, white or brown sauce is used, is
bash, whether wbetber a often often scrved served with poached poached or coddled
eggs. It lt can be used as a small vol-au-vent, a filling filling for for large
large or Or small vol-au-vent, tartlets tartIets and and other pastry cases, cases,
and also as as a a stuffing for artichoke articboke hearts or These are mushrooms.
mushroorns. Tbese are sprinkld sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and browned,
browned, and are served as a garnish gamish for main dishes. Sweetbread Sweetbread
(veal or hmb) lamb) hash. HAcHIS HACHIS DE DE RIs RIS DE DE vEAU, VEAU, D'AcNEAU
sauce. D'AGNEAU - This can be made with a white or brown sauce. Dice the tbe
sweetbreads sweetbreads very small and proceed proceed as as for veal veal or
poultry poultry hash. hasb. Veal hash. HAcHIS of braised, HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU -
Left-over pieces of stewed, stewed, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or roast roast veal
veal can can be be prepared prepared in in a brown sauce sauce like like a beef
beef hash or in a white sauce as below. Veat Veal hash hash i à I'allemande.
l'allemande. HAcHIs HACHIS DE VEAU A À L'AITEMANDE L'ALLEMANDEDice the tbe veal
very finely. finely. Bind with witb Allemande sauce (se, (see SAUCE). Heat in a
double saucepan. saucepan. Serve Serve in in a pie pie dish disb or, if if
desired,in desired,in a pie crust crust or vol-au-vent. vol-au-vent. Vesl Veal ha$
hasb t à la bchamel. béchamel. n.lcnrs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU A À r.l LA stcHAMEL
BÉCHAMEL Proceed as for Yeal Veal hash d à l'allemande, using Bichamel Béchamel
sauce sauce Proceed (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Ved Veal hlsh hash with cream cream sruce.
sauce. HAcHIs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU A À r.L LA cniim CRÈME Proceed as for for Veal
hash d à I'allemande l'allemande (q.v.), (q.v.), using Cream sauce sauce (see
SAUCE). Verl Veal ha$ hash i à la Mornay. Mornay. HAcHIs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU
MoRN,r,v MORNAY - Bind the hash bash with witb Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve in a border border of Duchess potatoes with Mornay
potatoes (see (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). Cover Coyer with sauce (se (see SAUCE).
Sprinkle with grated cheese, cheese, pour pour on melted butter, and brown. meltod
remaining at 70°C. way, the temperature ternperature drops very slowly, remaining
70'C. (158'F.) even after five or six hours or, witb with the most up-to(l58°F.)
date equipment" ev€n longer. In this this way, food can be cooked equipment, even
without supervision and and without the use use of fuel without fuel once it has
bee,n brought to the been brought tbe boil.

}IAZEL also known known as as wood HAZEL GROUSFGROUSE. cELlNorrE GELINOTTE - Bird
also grouse and rufrod Hazelgrouse grouse ruffied grouse. Hazel grouse lives in
woods. woods. There are two species, one a are a native of Europg Europe, the other
of Asia. grouse, which The common is on hazel grouse, common hazel on sale sale in
in France The which is during the winter months, is a about the size size of a a
partbe win ter montbs, a bird bird about tridge, in colour, is tridge, whose is
speckled whose plumage, reddish in speckled with brown, brown, black, white and
grey.

Hazel grouse

grous€, which was once The hazel grouse, Tbe very
especially especially in Alsace, the Ardennes and
rarer nowadays, and and the tbe greater number of
France come from The best frorn Russia Russia and
come
common in France, once very
the Pyr6n6es, Pyrénées,is is
hazel grouse grouse sold sold in
are frozen. Tbe come and are best

HATEREAU HÂTEREAU - Old French word word for little little balls balls of of pork
liver, Iiver, similal similar to to gayettes gayelles (q.v.). Nowadays, Nowadays,
this is the name given given to a a hot bot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or a light
main course course of of small pieces of of food, dipped in egg and and breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and and fried, fried, skewered skewered and and coated with with a
sauce. sauce.

Vologda, Archangel Arcbange! and Kazan. from Vologda" and Kazan. The meat meat is
white and tender, but tastes tas tes rather strongly strongly of fir tir cones,
which sorne find unpleasant. This flavour some people find can be made less strong
by soaking the bird in milk for sorne some cooking. time before cooking. (q.v.) are
All Ail the tbe recipes recipes given for partridge (q.v.) are suitable for hazel
hazel grouse. grouse. grouse i à l'allemande. cELINorrE GELINOTIE À L'ALLEMANDE
Hazel gnxrse A t'AtLHr,rANDE Truss Truss a hazel grouse. grouse. Season. Season.
Brown Brown the bird bird in I 1 tablespoon butter in a covered covered saucepan.
When it is three-parts cooked, butter tbem into thin strips. Put drain, remove the
breasts and cut them them back on the tbe bird, taking taking care to restore
restore it to its original shape. shape. Cover Coyer the tbe hazel bazel grouse
grouse with Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mixed mixed with with sour
sour cream. cream. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and pour Sprinkle with
little melted melted butter. butter. Let Let it it brown brown a a little ~jttle in
the tbe oven. oyen. Serve on a little Serve with witb Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce
(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Casserole of hazel hazel grorse grouse i à la la
polonrise. polonaise. cELrNorrE GELINOTTE EN À r,c, LA poroNAls POLONAISE - Stuff
the hazel bazel grouse with d à CASSEROLE A cAssERoLE gratin gameforcemeat (see
FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEA T) flavoured flavoured with I 1 gratin gmne forcemeat (see
crusbed juniper juniper berries. Truss. Truss. Cook in butter in an or 2 crushed
eartbenware casserole. After After removing removing the string, pour over over
earthenware cup) game game stock or concentrated it 3 tablespoons (scant * .,rp)
thickened veal stock and a little lemon juice. juice. Add browned browned thickened
of freshly grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs melted butter with a handful of fried in
it. Chaud-froid of of hazel hazel grorse. grouse. cELINorrE GELINOTTE EN EN
cHAr.iDCHAUDChaud-froid FROID - Prepared in white or brown stock, stock, as as for
ChaudFRoID p ar tr idge (see froid ofpartridge (see PA PARTRIDGE). oid of RTRIDGE).
fr Hazel grqrse grouse I à la crCme. crème. cELINorrE GELINOTTE A À ra, LA cntl,rs
CRÈME - Wrap Ilazel larding bacon round round the hazel grouse grouse and truss it.
To lessen lessen the taste taste of fir fir cones, cones, soak soak it it for for t
1 hour hour in milk before the cooking. cooking. a flameBrown the bird in 1
tablespoon butter heated in a proof proof earthenware casserole. Put the casserole
in the tbe oven, oyen, oyen (220"C., (220°C., 425°F, uncovered. Cook in a hot oven
425"F'., Gas Mark basting frequently, frequently, for about 18 minutes. 7), basting

HATTELI,E HATTELLE or or HATTELE:TTE HÂTTELETTE _ - OId Old French French words for
small birds, giblets, etc., roasted on on skewers. skewers. It is is derived
from hdtelet hâtelet or attelet allelet (skewer). (skewer). HALJNCIL HAUNCH. cMIER
CIMIER - Hindquarten Hindquarters of of the ox and of certain certain animaIs. This
word is applied particularly particularly to deer. wild animals. For detailed
recipes see ROEBUCK ROEBUCK or VENISON. VENISON. Tbe French also also use use the
tbe words gigue gigue and cuissot to The and cuissot describe describe haunch
baunch of game.

HAUT-BRION - Bordeaux Bordeaux wine wine of of great great repute. repute~ The tne
CMteau Château Haut-Brion, Haut-Brion, in in the the Pessac Pessac commune,
commune, is is in in the Graves and and not the the M6doc Médoc district. district.
According to the the list Iist drawn drawn up in 1855 by the tbe Bordeaux Bordeaux
Chamber Chamber of of Commerce, Commerce,
this is the only Graves wine given a 'first growth' classfficaclassification. The
Tbe other first growth growtb Bordeaux Bordeaux wines are ChAteauChâteauLafite,
Lafite, Chdteau-MargauL Château-Margaux, and Chdteau-Latour. Château-Latour.
HA WFINCH. cRos.BEc GROS-BEC - European European seed-eating seed-eating bird.
bird. It is HAWFINCH. known in France as as gros-bec, gros-bec, casse-noix casse-
noix or or pinson pinson royal.lt royal. It is known usually roasted. roasted.
usually HA WKSBILL TURTLE. cAREr CARET - Aquatic Aquatic tortoise, native
HAWKSBTTT.TLJRTLE. wann American and and Indian seas. seas. It lt furnishes
fumishes the of the wann tortoisesbell of commerce; its flesh fiesh is not worth
valuable tortoiseshell eating but but its its eggs are highly higbly esteemed.
eatmg HAY BOX BOX or or FUELLESS FUELLESS COOKER. COOKER. rr,r.lnmrn MARMITE
Nonv6NORVÉHAY GIENNE - An An ordinary ordinary pot, when when its its contents
contents have have beeF beep cIENNE

brought to the tbe boil, boil, is enclosed in an an insulating box, embrought

bedded in materials materials which which are poor poor heat heat conductors.
conductors. In this bedded 451
HAZELNUT HAZELNUT
Remove the the bird from the bird from the casserole, casserole, take dake off
offthe string and and Remove the string put it larding bacon, bacon, and and put it
back back in in the the casserole. casserole. Pour Pour over over it it larding (6
tablespoons, I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant j-cup) fresh thick thick cream.
cream. Complete Complete 1 Icup) fresh the cooking cooking in in a (160"C., 325°F.,
a moderate moderate oyen oven (160°C., 325"F., Gas Mark Gas Mark the 3), basting
basting frequently. frequently. 3), grouse. GELINOlTE Gtilled hareJ hazel grouse.
cELrNorrE GRILLÉE cnr.r,r,6n -- Slit Slit the the hazel hazel Grilled grouse along
along the the back. back. Open it and and remove remove most Open it most of of the
the small small grouse bones. Gently Gently f1atten flatten the the bird, bird,
season season it it with with salt salt and and bones. paprika, brush brush with
with melted melted butter, butter, co cover it ail all over over with with paprika,
ver it grated breadérumbs freshly grated grill on a breadcrumbs and and cook cook
under under the the grillon a freshly gentle heat. heat. Brown Brown well well on
on ail all sides. sides. gentle Garnish with with watercress watercress and and
surround surround with with a a border border of of Garnish half-slices of gherkin.
of lemon lemon and and slices slices of of gherkin. half-slices (see BUTIER, Serve
either either with with Maftre Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel buller butter (see BUTTER,
Serve (see SAUCE) Compound bUl/ers), butters), with Diable sauce with Diable sauce
(see SAUCE) or or with with Compound grilled poultry poultry and any sauce sauce
suit suitable for grilled and wildfowl. wildfowl. any able for grouse il Hazel
grouse i la la hongroise. hongroise. GELINOTTE cELrNorrE À A LA r,a HONGROISE
noNcnorsE Hazel (3 tablespoons) Cook2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) ehopped chopped
onion seasoned seasoned Cook 2 tablespoons paprika in grouse in with paprika in
butter. butter. Put Fut the the trussed trussed hazel hazel grouse in a a with
casserole with with the the onion. onion. Cook gentle heat. Cook in in the the oyen
oven in in gentle casserole When the the bird is almost bird is almost cooked,
cooked, remove put it remove the the string string and and put it When pouring back
in in the the casserole, casserole, pou (5 tableover it it 4 4 tablespoons
tablespoons (5 back ring over paprika. Complete the cooking, spoons) cream. cream.
Season Season with with paprika. spoons) basting the the bird bird frequently
frequently with with the cream. basting p.lrN DE grouse loar. Hrzel grouse prepared
loaf. PAIN DE GELINOTTE GELrNorrE This is is prepared Hazel - This like game loa!).
Partridge loaf(see loaf (see LOA LOAVES, Winged game loaJ). like Partridge VES,
Winged grouse mousse, Hazel grouse mousse, hot hot or cold. cold. MOUSSE uoussn DE
DE GELINOTTE GELrNorrE Hazel Made from grouse in fillets of hazel grouse of hazel
in the the sa same as Quai! Made from flUets me way as Quail (see QlJAIL). mousse
(see mousse QUAIL). grouse and Plt6 ofhazel potted hazel grouse. PÂTÉ, ofhezel
grouse hazel grouse_ and potted rA16, TERRlNE TERRTNE Pâté grouse or potted DE
GELINorty Pdtds of potted hazel grouse grouse of hazel DE GELINOTTE hazel grouse -
Pâtés prepared in are prepared in the sa same as pdtds of partridge and potted are
me way as pâtés ofpartridge potted partridges (see (see PARTRIDGE). PARTRIDGE).
partridges grouse. GELINOTTE Roast hazel cELrNorrE RÔTIE n6fls in Roast bazel
grouse. Wrap the bird bird in - Wrap larding bacon and truss. Cook in a hot oven
for 15 to larding bacon and truss. Cook in a hot oyen for 15 to 18 minutes, on the
the spit spit for for 18 18 to 20 minutes. Add a little minutes, and and on to 20
Add a little pan to water roasting pan a gravy. water to to the the roasting to
make make a gravy. Serve with with the bird. bird. In England, and potato ln
England, bread bread sauce, fried fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and potato crisps
are usually game. crisps are usually served served with with this this game. Selmi
of sALMrs Salmi of hazel ba:rel gouse. grouse. cELrNorrE GELlNOTfE EN EN SALMIS -
Prepared in in the of woodcock (see same way as Salmi ofwoodcock (see WOODCOCK).
WOODCOCK). the same SuprGmes supRExvrEs DE Suprêmes of of hazel hazel grouse.
grouse. SUPR.!lMES DE cELrNorrE GELINOTTE - Remove move the the breasts !,;reasls
from from an an uncooked hazel grouse. grousc. Trim Trim and bone bone them. them.
Flatten Flatten them them carefully, carefully, season with with salt sali and
pepper, pepper, and and cook cook in in butter. buller. Lay them on a dish, garnish
garnish as indicated the appropriate appropriate recipe, recipe, and and serve
serve with with the indicated in in the sauce sauce recommended. recommended. All
Ali recipes recipes given given for for cooking cooking and and serving serving
supr€mes suprêmes of of chicken chicken and and game game birds birds are are
suitable for for suprAmes suprêmes of of hazel hazel grouse. grouse.

inhabitants of of inhabitants of the the market market town town of Lern6. In In

almost of Lerné. almost ail the of all the houses there there was was an an oyen
oven to to cook cook the the hearth-cakes. hearth-cakes. Sorne houses Some of of
going back these ovens, ovens, hewn hewn in in the the rocks, rocks, still still
exist, exist, going to the these back to the eleventh eentury. century. eleventh
The fashion fashion for for Lerné Lern6 hearth-cakes, hearth-cakes, of peasants of
which which the the peasants The from Chinonais Chinonais were were so so fond,
fond, continued continued until the the end of the the end of from eighteenth
century. century. eighteenth published an E. Johanneau, Johanneau, who who
published edition of of the an edition the works works of E. of Rabelais with with
intcrcsting interesting commentaries, commentaries, tells of his tells of his trip
trip to to Rabelais Lern6 in in September September 1821. 1821. Lerné
given'Galettes, In this village village he he was was given hearth-cakes, called
hearth-cakes, ln 'Ga/ettes, called have a part of reputation in a high reputation
in this this part of the country.' country.' which have Since 1821, 1821, the the
trade trade in in these these cakes cakes has has bec become negligible Since orne
negligible at Lerné. Lern6, and and soon soon only only their memory will remain.
Since at Since they they have fallen fallen into into such such undeserved
undeserved disfavour, disfavour, it it is is weil have well to to what Rabelais
Rabelais said about about them: them: recall what 'Notez que que c viande à/este.
c'est cileste, manger manger à d déjeusner, dijeusner, 'Notez 'est viande r aisins
avec av e c fouache raisins fouac he frais fr ai s che.' 'It is heavenly fare is
heavenly fare to grapes and to lunch lunch on on grapes and fresh-baked 'lt hearth-
cakes.'' hearth-cakes. Hearth-cakes are still made in the Auvergne, but in quite
quite a a different way from these these famous hearth-cakes. hearth-cakes.
difrerent Auv ergne hearth-cakes. FouAcEs D'AUVERGNE-Ingredients. hear t h-cakes.
FOUACES D'AtrvrncNn - /ng redient s. Auvergne (18 oz., 4! g. (18 (a oz., 1 4| eups)
cups) flour, 100 g. (4 butter, 15 l5 g. 500 g. $ cup) butter, yeast, 3 oz.) yeast,
glass Cognac, 3 eggs, eggs, a a small small glass a few Cognac, a few drops (:~ G
oz.) orange-flower water, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant:l: scant I cup) milk.
orange-flower ingredients together in a bowl. Leave for all ingredients Method.
Work ail Set out like a a crown on buttered paper and and brush 12 hours. Set yolk
of egg. egg. Sake Bake in moderate oyen. oven. with yolk

HEDGEHOG. HÉRISSON nfnrssoN mammal, regarded regarded HEDGEHOG. - Insect-eating

marnrnal, good to eaL by sorne some people eat. people as very good

IIELDER BYGONE DA DAYS. HELDER RESTA lJRANTS OF BYGONE YS. - See RESTAURANTS

IIELVELLE Type of grows in of fungus which HELVELLE whieh grows in Europe Europe in
- Type or in upland woods at the base of trees, especidamp grass, or ally fir fir
trees. trees. Most of helvelle areedible. They are sometimes Most types of he/velle
are edible. They sometimes called monks' The best of thern monks' morels, morels,
baby baby morels. morels. The best of them is is the crinkled helvelle,which
crinkled helvelle, which tastes tastes a little little like like the true morel.
HEMIOIYE. HEMIONE. t$utoxnHÉMIONE -~ Wild animal found in Asia, akin to the donkey
donkey and horse. horse. For suitable recipes, see DONKEY, DONKEY. HORSE. HORSE.
CIGUE of a CIGUË - Name Name of a number number of poisonous poisonous plants of of
the Umbelliferae family. The The poisonous poisonous qualities qualities of some
sorne of of these these plants have been been greatly greatly exaggerated.
exaggerated. The great hemlock (which might be confusod confused with parsley) is
in fact It seems seems improbable that that Socrates Socrates fact hardly
poisonous. It should have been been poisoned with the the juice juice of of this
plant plant alone. alone. The The little liule hemlock hem/ock is is distinguished
distinguished from from parsley parsley and chervil, ehervil. with which it il
could be confusod, confused, by its thicker and larger larger leaves Ieaves which
are marbled marbled with black black or violet on the the lower side and and on on
the edges, edges, and and particularly particularly by by the the unpleasant smell
smell which which is is released reJeased whe,n when the the leaves leaves are
rubbed. rubbed. Some Sorne poisonous poisonous effects effects are attributed to to
it, it. but but as with wilh the preceding preceding species, species, its its
poisonous poisonous qualities qualities are are exaggerated. exaggerated.

IIEMLOCK. HEMLOCK.

HAZELNUT. HAZELNUf.

NoTSETTE NOISETTE -

pleasant pleasant to to taste. taste. Hazelnuts Hazelnuts are are used used in in
confectionery. confectionery.
Cultivated Cultivated hazelnuts hazelnuts are are called ca lied filberts.
fllberts. Hazelnut Hazelnut butter bul/er - See See BUT[EF., BUTIER, Compound
Compound butters. bul/ers.

bush, bush, which which grows grows all ail over over Europe. Europe. This This nut
nut is is rich ri ch in in oil oil and

Fruit Fruit of of the the hazelnut hazelnut or or cobnut cobnut

IIEADY. HEADY. cAprrrr,rx CAPITEUX - Applied Applied to to wines wines which which
go go to to one's one's
head, head, that that is, is. wines wines which which are are rich ri ch in in
alcohol. alcohol.

IIEART. HEART. coEr.rRCOEUR - See See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARlETY MEATS.
MEATS. IIBARTH-CAKE. HEARTH-CAKE. rou,c,cp-Old FOUACE - Old form fonn of of pastry
pastry hkeagalette like a galette of of fine fine wheaten wheaten flour. flour. It
It is is made made of of unleavened unleavened dough dough and and
was was originally originally baked baked under under the the ashes ashes in in the
the hearth. hearth. HearthHearthcake cake is is made made in in all ail the the
provinces provinces of of France. France. Hearth-cake Hearth-cake makers makers
from from Lern6 Lerné have have acquired acquired a a universal uruversal

IIERIBEIYNET. HERB-BENNET. nsNolrE BENOiTE - The roots roots of this this plant,
plant, which which gives out a smell of of cloves, cloyes. possess possess
stimulating and tonic tonie gives out properties. properties. Its Its yellow yellow
leaves, leaves, picked picked before before the the appearance appearance of of the
the flowers, are sometimes sometimes eaten eaten in salad. salado flowers, are

HERB-M. HERB-IVY. IvE IVE -

Species Species of of chive, chive, used used

in the the flavouring flavouring of of

salads salads and and sauces. sauces.

reputation, reputation, thanks thanks to to the the novel novel Gargantua.In

Gargantua. In the the sixteenth sixteenth century century the the guild guild of of
hearth-cake hearth-cake makers makcrs consisted consisted largely largely
452

HERBS. HERBS. nrnsEs-A HERBES- A large large number nurnber of of aromatic aromatic
plants plants used used in in the kitchen come come under under the the general
general heading heading of of herbs. herbs. the kitchen Among Among the the most
most common corn mon are are chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon. chives chives
and and
HERRING HERRING
parsley. parsley. Herbs Herbs are are also also usod used as as trimmings trimmings
in in salads. salads. (See (See AROMATIC AROMATIC PLANTS, PLANTS, FINES FINES
HERBES.) HERBES.) Herb Herbbroth. broth. PoTAGE POTAGE AI-rx AUX HERBEs HERBES -
Refreshing Refreshing soup soup made made with with leeks leeks and and pot pot
herbs. herbs. (See (See SOUPS.) SOUPS.) Pot Pot vegetables vegetables or'herbs'. or
'herbs'. Hn'BEs HERBES poucinrs POTAGÈRES - Generally, Generally, six six
vegetables vegetables only only are are included included among among the the pot
pot herbs. herbs. They They are are orach orach (rarely (rarely found), found),
spinach, spinach, lettuce, lettuce, sorrel, sorrel, seakaleseakalebeet beet and and
purslane. purslane. All Ali these these vegetables vegetables are are used used in
in the the preparation preparation of of soups soups and and broths, broths, but
but this this list list is is a a somewhat somewhat irbitrary arbitrary selection,
selection, as as there there are are many many other other vegetables vegetables
equally equally suitable for for the the pot. pot. -Turtlesuitable Turtle
herbs.I{ERBESA herbs. HERBES À ToRTLJETORTUE - Mixture Mixture of ofaromatic
aromatic herbs herbs of of which which the the main main ones ones are are basil,
basil, marjoram, marjoram, savory savory and and thyme. thyme. These These herbs
herbs are are used used in in the the flavouring flavouring of of turtle turtle
soup, soup, and and also in in turtle turtle sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE,
Tortue Tortue sauce) sauce) which which is is also served served with with calf's
calf's head. head. nDnnHÈRE - nrench French term term for for a a stag stag between
between eighteen eighteen months months and and two two years years old, old, from
from the the time time bumps bumps appear appear on on its its forehead forehead to
to the the time time when when the the antlers are are fully fully formed. fonned.

waters, or the polar polar seas seas to to the the French French Atlantic Atlantic
coastal coastal waters, or the shoals. Channel, Channel, where where they they
congregate congregate in in immense immense shoals. from Calais to The Theherring
herringfisheries fisheries in inthe theChannel Channel extend extend from Calais to
lasts from the the the mouth mouth of of the the Orne. Orne. The The fishing
fishing season season lasts from the Boulogne can middle middle of of October
October to to the the end end of of December. December. Boulogne can herring
industry. claim claim to to be be the the real real centre centre of ofthe the
French French herring industry. flavoured of The Thefresh fresh herring herringis
is among among the themost most delicately de!icately flavoured of ways. fish.
fish. It It can can be be cooked cooked in in a a great great many many different
different ways.

HERMETICAL HERMETICAL SEALING. SEALlNG. nnnufrtQun HERMÉTIQUE - Whe'n When a a lid

lid or or stopper stopper of a container fits fits so exactly that that the the
container container is is rendired rendered airtight, airtight, it it is is said
said to to be be hermetically hennetically sealed. sealed. Casseroles and and
saucepans saucepans can can be made almost almost airtight airtight by by
Casseroles
us,ing using flour-and-water flour-and-water paste paste to to seal seal them.
them.

Herrings

_ SEE HERMITAGE WINE WlNESee ERMITAGE. ERMITAGE. HERMITAGE This shellfish BERNARD-
L'ERMITE HERMIT CRAB. CRAB. BERNARD-L'ERMITE - This shellfish has has IIDRMIT
characteristic. Nature one particularly one particularly interesting interesting
characteristic. Nature having having

just round middle, round the negleited neglected to give it a hard shell except
just the middle, shells of of into shells it creeps creeps into its enemies enemies
it from its itself from to protect itself to rightful owner. molluscs, abandoned by
the rightful
Hermit crab crab Herooit

Cut them of freshfish. prepare herrings How to - Dressing How to prepare herrings
Dressing of fresh fish. Cut them roes. Scale, wash soft roes. and soft gills,
leaving leaving the the gills, through through the the hard hard and Scale, wash
are which they way in the way According to dry thoroughly. thoroughly. According
and dry and to 1:he in which they are sides, fillet thern or, or sides, the back
along the them along slit them cooked, slit to to be be cooked, back or fillet them
or, grilled, leave them whole. or grilled, poached, braised braised or to be be
poached, are to if they are ifthey leave them whole. as they are. them as or fry
fry them Grill or bloaters. Grill and bloaters. Kippers and Kippers they are. salt,
soak them the salt, remove the To remOve them. To Fillet them. Salt herrings.
herrings. Fillet Salt soak them parts of and water. Drain, of milk milk and of
equal equal parts mixture of or a a mixture in milk milk or in water. Drain,
recipe. to the according and cook them, and cook according to the recipe. dry and
and trim trim them, dry if Soak, if thern. Soak, trim them. and trim skin and
Fillet, skin herrings. Fillet, Smoked herrings. Smoked to the recipe. according
salt. Cook remove to necessary, necessary, to remove salt. Cook according to the
recipe. FRAIsH.,msxcs FRAISHERRINGS. HARENGS FRESH HERRINGS. FRESH HARENcS cntr,lfs
A rA oIlsL"E gdilcd henings Devilled Devilled grilled herrings. HARENGS GRILLFs À
LA DIABLE Season and coat them and sides. sides. Season back and along back
heriings along the herrings Slit the Slit and coat them and oil, and breadcrumbs
and white breadcrumbs with white Sprinkle with mustard. with mus with tard.
Sprinkle oil, and grill. the grill. under the slowly under cook slowly cook (see
SAUCE)' sauce or Ravigote Ravigote sauce sauce or Mustard sauce wiih Mustard Serve
with (see SAUCE). Serve

crustacean this crustacean about this writing about the eider, elder, writing Dumas
the Alexander Dumas Alexander had who had Creator, who says'the la cuisine,
caisine, says de la in his Dictionnaire 'the Creator, Dictiomaire de tnhis or
became became disturbed, or was disturbed, lobster, was asaa lobster, him as
started to dress dress him started to job, and him finished hirn and finished the
job, of the middle of the middle in the absent-minded absent-minded in asaa slug.
slug. dressed dressed as are which are body which parts of its body of its protect
those those parts so, to to protect 'And 'And so, which shellwhich sees aashell
asil it sees assoon soonas tempting, as so tempting, and so vulnerable vulnerable
and proceeds to to take take and proceeds shell and of the the shell ownerof the
owner iteats eats the fits itssize, size, it fits its warm.' still wann.' place
while it is isstlIJ while it its its place asshrimps shrimps ways as sameways in
the thesame cooked in becooked can be Hennit Hermit crabs crabscao in cookedin it
is iscooked shell, it the shell, of the out of takenout (q.v.). Having Having been
beentaken (q.v.). bay and bay thyme and withthyme (q.v.) flavoured flavoured with
salted court-bouillon (q.v.) iitteOcourt-bouillon water. insea seawater. cookedin
becooked Itcan canalso also be leaf. leaf. It sprinkle crab,sprinkle hermitcrab,
thehennit cleanedthe having cleaned afterhaving One also,after Onecan canalso, the
underthe shell under borrowed shell itsborrowed inits cookititin andcook it butter
and it with with butter coals. hotcoals. grill,or onhot orbake bakeititon grill,

FILETs I'rnglaisc' FILETS herrings à l'anglaise. of herrings Fillets of Fillets DE

HARENGS À them in egg Dip them herrings. Dip the herrings. trim the and trim Fillet
and L'ANGLAIs -- Fillet L'ANGLAISE in egg fat. Serve Serve with in boiling deep-fry
and deep-fry in boiling fat. breadcrumbs and and breadcrumbs and with butters)
Compound butters) (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butter (see d'h6tel butter Maitre
d'hôtel Maitre roes. soft roes. mashed, soft boiled, mashed, with boiled, mixed
with mixed herrings along the herrings Slash the FRrrs -- Slash HARENcs FRITS
herringp. HARENGS Frierl herrings. Fried along in boiling deep-fry in and deep-fry
flour and and flour milk and in milk them in Dip them the sides. sides. Dip the
boi!ing and salt with Season with salt and in aa clotho cloth.Season dry in anddry
them, and Drain them, fat. Drain fat. lemons. quartered parsley and fried garnish
with gamish with fried parsley and quartered lemons. Cut, scale and dry the
cnIr,r,6sHARENcS GRILLÉS herrings. HARENGS Grilled berrings. Grilled - Cut, scale
and dry the melted or melted oil or with oil them with Coat them sides. Coat the
sides. Slash the herrings. Slash herrings. grill. Serve Serve with the grill. under
the slowly under and cook cook slowly butter. Season Season and butter. with
butters). (seeBUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound butter(see Maitre d'hôtel
d'h6tel butter Maitre sauce suitable for other sauce (seSAUCE) anyother orany
SAUCE)or sauce (see Mustard sauce Mustard suitable for grilledfish. fish. grilled
nourn*ctnn A u' rnnrNcs boulangdre.HARENGS À LA BOULANGÈRE laboulangère. Herringsà
la Herrings with liberally with dishliberally earthenwaredish flameproofearthenware
ovalflameproof anoval Greasean Grease
A

pn nmsNcs

withbluish bluish Fishwith hening. Fish commonherring. HARENG HERRING. HARENG

HERRING. - -the the common belly. andbelly. sidesand andsilvery silverysides
alongits itsback backand scalesalong scales proareproNorthSea, Sea,are inthe
theNorth foundin arefound Thesefish, fish,which whichare These fromthe the
migratefrom year,in theymigrate inMarch, Marclr, they Everyyear, fertile. Every
digiously fertile. digiously
453 453

sprinklewith salt. andsprinkle dishand inthe thedish herringsin Lay66herrings

butter.Lay butter. chopped potatoesand and1I chopped slicedpotatoes thinly sliced
with22thinly Surround with Surround inbutter. butter. cookedin lightlycooked
havebeen beenlightly whichhave onion, which onion, and powdered bay thymeand
pepper, aa!ittle littlethyme salt,pepper, withsalt, Seasonwith Season powdered bay
the dish' Add overthe butter melted tablespoons 2 to 3 leaf. Pour leaf. Pour 2 to 3
tablespoons melted butter over dish. Add inthe the cookin andcook boiland tothe
theboil Bringto cover. Bring tocover. water enoughwa enough ter to
salt.

with
HERRING
oven, basting basting from from time time ta to time. time.Sprinkle Sprinkle with
withcnopped chopped oven, parslry andserve servein inthe thecooking cooking dish.
dish. parsley and proceed Hetrings lii La lameunière. meuni&re. HA.RENGS Hlxsrrcs À
ALA u MEUNIÈRE uruurtnr -- Proceed Herrings as for Fira d la rneunidre (see FERA).
as for Féra li la meunière (see FÉRA). Herrings in ir white white wine. wine.
HARENGS nenrNcs ÉTUVÉS 6ruves AU AUVIN vrN BLANC BLANcCut the herrings into into
thick thick slices slics and and put them thern in inaabuttered buttered pan.
Season with salt. Moisten with 2 dl. ($ pint, scant cup) pan. Season salt. Moisten
with G pint, seant Cl.lp) white wine, wine, seaSOn season with salt and pepper. Dot
with butter cut white wIth salt and pepper. Dot with butter cut pieces. Bring to
the boil over a high flame. Cover, into small small pieces. into ta the boil (}ver
a high ftame. Cover, and simmer simmer for for 88 to to l0 minutes. minutes. and
Drain the herrings, herrings, and place on and place on a a dish. dish. SÎmmer
Simmer the the Drain the cooking liquor to to evaporale evaporate sorne some of of
the the liqoid, liquid, add add aa liule little cao king Iiquor butter, and pour
over and pour the fish. over the fish. butter, Marinade of of fresh freCr herrings
(hors-drcuvre). HARENGS HARENGs FRAIS FRArs Marinade uenrN6s Steep 12 for 6 houn
and 6 hours and MARINÉS -- Steep 12 soft-roed herrings in salt for dry with with aa
cloth. cloth. Put hrt aa layer layer of of finely sliced sliced on onions and dry
ions and carrots in in a flameproof earthenware a flameproof earthenware dÎsh dish
with with sprigs sprigs of of carrots parsley and thyme, I bay leaf, a few
peppercorns and i or Z and thyme, leaf. a few peppercorns and 1 Or 2 cloves. Lay
the herrings in the dish. the herrings the dish. Pour over over a a mixture mixture
of parts of of equal equal parts of white white wine wine and and Pour put another
vinegar, which which shou!d quite caver should not not ql.lite cover the the fish.
fish. Put another vinegar, layer of of sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots
carrots on on top. Cover Cover the the dish dish with with oiled paper. Bring ta to
the the bail. boil. When When the liquid liquid is is bubbling, bubbling, cover
tlre dish and simmer simmer slowly slowly for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. caver
kave the the herrings herrings ta to cool cool in in the the stock. stock. Leave
Sarted herrings à la Ia lyonmise. HARENGS TTARENGs SAUrtS sAUTfs LYONLyoNSautéed
NArsE - Slash the herrinp along the sides. Scaso.q and dip in NAISE Slash the the
sides... SeaSQn and dip in ffour. Sauté Saut6 them them on on one one side side in
butter. butter. Tum Tum tbe the herrings herrings flour. over and and add add 3 3
ta to 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons finely finely chopped chopped anions, onions,
over previousty frid in in butter. butter. previously lightly fried Finish cooking
the the anions onions and and herrÎngs herrings together and and then then Finish
put the herrings herrings in a a dish. dish. Pour Pour the the butter butter and
onÎons onions over. over. put the Sprinkle wilh parsley. Pour with chopped chopped
parsley. I tablespool'l tablespoon ofvinegar of vinegar Sprinkle Pour! into and
heat heat in a little over the fish. ioto thepan the and in a little butter.
butter. Pour Pour this this over the fish. Soft nres. LArrANcEs Soft herring rots.
LAITANCES DE DE HARENcs HARENGS - Remove Remove the the soft for soft roa roes from
from fresh fresh [s11ings. Use Use any any resipe rec1pe indicated indicated for
(see SOFT ROES). carp carp soft soft roes roes (see SOFT
Smokedherrings herringsare are processod in inthe the following following way: way:
Smoked The herrings herrings are are salted to greater or to aa grealer lesser
degree or lesser degree The pickled according ta to the the type type of of smoked
smoked herring herring required. required. Piekled aecording herrings must qmohed
herrings must he be salted salted for for at leasteight at least eight days. smoked
Slightly salted salted or or mild mild smoked smoked herrings herrings are are made
from fresh made from Slightly herrings salted salted for for twenty-four twenty-
four ta to forty-eight forty-eight hours. hours. Bloaters Bloaters herrings
aresalted salted for for aafew few hours hours only. only. are Once they they are
are salted. salted, the the herrings herrings are are strung strung on on rads rods
Once threadod through through their their gills, and put to and are are put to
drain drain on on trolleys trolleys threaded or racks, racks, then then set set up
in the smoking up in smoking chimneys. chimneys. In In modem modern or smokeries,
the the racks racks are are fitted fitted into into the the chimney, chimney, thus
thus avoidavoidsrnokeries, great deal ing a a great deal of of handlîng. handling.
ing When the the herrings herrings are are in in the the chimney, a a beechwood
beechwood fire fire is is Wheu lit. This produces a This produces powerful draught,
which a powerful which dries dries the lit. the herrings, and and at at the the
same same time time draws draws offany excess excess oil. oil. Next, Next,
herrings, the fire fire is is damped damped with with beech beech sawdust sawdust
and and chips. This This the causes the the fire fir€ to to send send off off a a
dense dense smoke smoke which which smokes the the causes herrings and and gives
them them theu their special special flavour. flavour. When- the the herrings have
have been been sufficiently sufficiently smoked, smoked, they they are are removed
from the chÎmney shimasy and and taken taken to to the the smokery r-oi"ry
worksheds, where girls sort grade them, sort and and grade them, and and crate
crate the the sound ones "'''''-'-'''''''''1'> according ta to size quality. size
and and qualÎty. Generally, very large herrings are are crated crated in in
twenties, twenties, weighing from 4 to 5 kg. (Sf to lb.) according according to to
stason. weighing season. lb.) Medium herrings herrings are are packed in batches
batches of of twenty-five. twenty-five, Medium werghing from from 3t 3f ta to 4 4
kg. (7f; to 8l lb.) Small Small herrings herrittgs are weighing are packed iu also
paeked in batches batches of twenty,five and weigh from from 3 to also 3 ta ke.(61
to 7l1b.). 7i lb.). Smoked Smoked herrings are packed in are alJo packed in 3! kg.
(61: to wooden barrels which hold hold from from si.xty sixty to to a a hundred
hundred fish, fish, wooden barrels whieh according to to size. according Bloaters
are are made made from from herrings which are very slightly Bloaters salted and
smoked. smoked. They They do not keep for any length of time, salted and should be
and should he eaten without without delay, like fresh fish. Kippers are lightly
smoked smoked herrings slit from from top top to Kippers are bottom become
havebecome bottom and and opened out. In recent years, kippers have very very
popular popular in France. Fillets Fillets of of fresh fresb and a nd salt herring
herring are are very very much sought sought after. arter. Skilled of the herring,
eut off off the the head head and aod tail tail of herring, slit it it Skilled
girls cut open, bone and and skin skin it. it. In ln this trus way fillets flllets
are are obtained obtained of of which every part part can can be eaten, and there
is no !JO waste. 2W 200 g. (7 oz.) of of f,llets are packed packed in in little
Iiule wooden boxes, or or parcels parcels of I kg. (2+ lb.) of Oi-Ib.) of fillets
flilets are are made made up. Iridr smoked smoked herings. HARENcs HARENGS sAuRs
SAURS A À L'rRrAwpArsE L'IRLANDAISE Wash Wash and and dry dry the the herrings. Cut
Cut offthe off the heads. Split Split the the fish fisb in in half half lengthwise
lengthwise and and spread them them out out flat fiat in in a a deep deep dish.
dish. Cover Cover them them with with whisky whisky and set set light light to to
them. them. When When the tbe whisky whisky has has all aIl burnt bumt away and and
the the flame Bame extinguished, extinguished, the the herrings herrings are ready
for for eating. Smoked fillets flUets of herdng in in oil. oU. FrLErs flLETS DE DE
HARENGs HARENGS sArJRs SAURS uexrNfsA L'HUILE- Fillet and and trfin24 trim 24
smoked smoked herrings. herrings. Soak Soale MARINÉS À r'nurt,sthern them in in
milk milk for2 for 2 hours hours to to remove remove salt. salt. Drain, Drain, and
and dry dry thern them in in a a cloth. c1oth. Put Put them them in in a a pie dish
dish in in layers, layers, with with alternate alterna te layers layers of finely
chopped onions, sprigs sprigs of thyme and and brokenbrokenup up bay bay leaves.
Jeaves. Place the soft soft and aod hard bard roes roes ofthe herrings herrings on
on top. Cover with olive Coverwith olive oil, oil, and and leave leave them them to
ta soak soak for for24 24 hours. bours. Smoked filleb flUets of ofherring herring
witb witb soft soft roes. roes. FrLBrs BLeTS DE DE HARENcs HARENGS sAURs SAURS Aux
AUX LATTANCES LAlTANCES- Fillet Fillet several several smoked, smoked, soft-roed
soft-roed herrings. herrings. Remove Remove the the skin, skin, and and bone bone
them them as as completely as as possible. possible. Cut Cut each each fillet
fi.llet into ioto strips. strips. Put Put them them in in a a pan pan with enough
enougb milk milk almost almost to to cover cover them. them. Leave Leave to ta soak
soak for for 30 30 minutes, minutes, or or longer longer if ifthe the herrings are
very salty. salty. Rub Rub the thesoft soft roes roes through througha a sieve,
collecting the the pur6e in in a a bowl bowl underneath. underneath. Add Add Il
teaspoon teaspoon mustard, I dl. (6 tabletable-spoons, spoons, scant seantf cup)
cup)oil oil (stirring (stirringit it in in a a little little at ata a time), time),
and and a a little little vinegar. Add Add further further seasoning seasoningif
ifnecessary. necessary. Drain Drain the fillets tillets and and dry dry them them
in inaa cloth. clotho Arrange Arrange them them in in hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre
dishes. dishes. Pour Pour the the soft soft roe roe sauce sauce over over them tbem
and and sprinkle sprinlelewith withqhopped choppe<! parsley. parsley.

ll

methods: methods: When When the the Boulogne .JjOIJlOjgoe herring fleet trawls in
the North Sea f,rqrn June to October, the trawlers are at sea for long periods from
June to are at sea for long periods at a tine and the herrings are salted on board
as soon as thev at a time and the herrings are salted on board as soon as they are
caught. They are put down with alternate layers of sali, are caughl. They are put
down with alternate layers of salt, in barrels which are then hermetically sealed.
in barrels which are then hermetically sealed. Fishing vessels which operate in the
pas-de-Calais and the vessels which operate in the Pas-de-Calais and the Channel
pofts put into port each day as soon as the nets are ports put into port eaeh day
as soon as the nets are hauled in. The fish is transported from the boat to the
salting hauJed in. Thefish is transported from the boat to the salting sheds. After
it has been mixd with sah in a long wooden sheds. Aner it has been mixed with salt
in a long wooden trougb it is thrown into cement vats. The salt mixes with the
trough it is thrown into cement vais. The salt mixes with the moisture moisture
from from the the herrings berrings to to form fonn a a brine brine with with a a
saltsaltdensity of 25". The fish must remain steeped in this brine for density of
25". The fish must remain steeped in tbis brine for at least te,n days, to ensure
its preservation. at least ten days. to enrure Îts preservation.

SALT HERRINGS. HARE.NGS selts SALT HERRINGS. nenrucs SALÉS - In ln the the Boulogne
Boulogne industry herrings are Fhiog fishil1g industry trerrings are either either
salted salted at at sea sea or or in in port. port. Salt_ herrings are processed
industrially by the following Salt berrings are processed industrially by the
fol1owing

partially cooked. Cold Cold smoking smoking is is carriod carded out out almost
almos! exctusively in France, notably in Boulogne. The fuel usod is exclusively in
France, notably in Boulogne. Tbe fuel used is always preferably wooq beecb and
always wood, p-referably beech., and sawdust. sawdust. Resinous Resinous wood wood
is is avoided, avoided, as as it it imparts imparts an ail unpleasant unpieasant
flavour flavour to to the the fish. fisb. Hot Hotsmoking is scarcelywer used
usedexc€pt exceptin inthe thepreparation prepara tion of ofbucklings,
bucklings,which are aremuch IDuchin indernand demandin inAlsace. Alsace.
454 454
SMOKED HERRINGS. HERRINGS. HmrNcs HARENGS rrruns FUMÉS - There There are are two
t:wo ways of smoking fish, 'hot' and 'cold'. of smoking 'hot' and 'cold'. In cold
cold smoking smoking, the fish fish is is hung hung some sorne way away from the
fire and is smoked at a temperature of about zS'C. (77'F.). fue and is smoked at a
temperature of about In In hot hot smoking the the fish fish is is hung hung close
close to to the the fire and is

SMOKED

partially

t
HOAXES
HIPFOCRASHIPPOCRAS - Spiced Spiced aromatic aromatic wine wine much enjoyed by by
our
ancestors. It was was so called because becaus.e it was was filtered filterOO
through Ihrough a ancestors. of a type said to to be be invented by Hippocrates,
Hippocrales, the the great bag of physician who lived lived in the the fifth fifth
century cenlury B.C. B.C speaking Hippocras Hippocras was was a a type type of of
aperitif apéritif Properly speaking similar to la the vermouths vermouths made made
nowadays, rather than a table similar wine. Our Our forebears, forebears, in În
fact, facl, drank drank it it before before meals meals or, if if it it was of the
meal. roeal. served at table, at the end of Arnaud de Villeneuve, Villeneuve,
famous'thirteenth famous' thirteenth century physinumber of of different different
recipes for the spiced wine. cian, gives a number wine to the boil In one recipe he
he recommends recommends bringing the wîne J litres (5| (st pints, and putting in
it a sachet containing, for 3 75 g. g, (3 oz.) oz.) each each of the the following
following spices: 6l pints) wine, 75 raisÎns. Boil the wine wîne until it is cubeb,
cloves, nutmeg and raisins. sugar. reduced reduced by bya of its volume. Add sugar.
a third of In ln another another recipe, the wine wÎne is is spiced spiced with a a
mixture mixture of of nuts, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, paradise DutS, cloves, sugar
and a a pinch pinch cinnamon, ofmusk. Hippocras Hippocras was was drunk drunk
cooled cooled or or even even iced iced whenever possible. possible. This wine
remained popular for a a very long time; it it was it were still in fashion in the
eighteenth century. Presents of it made made to the king and to foreign nobility.
Here is Îs a more recent rceent recrpe for Hippocras: g. (If lb., 3 cups) sugar in
a Put 700 g, a saucepan wilh with 4 dl. (i scant 2 cups) water and the following
spices: 4 teatea(1 pint, pmt, seant (ground), cloves, t of nutmeg (ground), of a a
nutmeg to 2 spoons grnger, ginger, 2 cloves, to tablespoons cinnamon and the zest
of Seville oranges. tablespoons cinnamon of 2 Seville Boil this syrup for a few few
minutes. Add 2 litres litres (3| pints, (white or red). a| pints) of old wine
(white rOO). Leave the mixture on the stove until until the surface turns it into a
stave tums white, then pour it a large jug and leave Strain through jug leave to ta
infuse infuse for 30 minutes. Strain through muslin, and bottle. bottle.

bread bread nade made variously of of barley, barley, wheat, wheat, chestnuts,
mlitze, maize, Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes and potatoes. potatoes.
This This they they washed down with with beer beer and spirits made made from from
glain. grain. They could could hardly h.ardly slsallow'another swallowanother
morsel morse! when their their host announced that that it il was time time to
proceed proceed to to the examination examination of of other other substances. At
At this point, point, a delicate delicate feast feast was served, which which only
only Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre Reynière could could enjoy enjoy (not (not
having having eaten eaten anything bdorehand). beforehand). He did so 50 in in
front front of of the bloated 'economists' who were satiated satiated but but not
not satisfied. satisfied. The most of a guest To test the palate and discernment
discernment.of guest - The typical example is the meal served to to Monselet.
Monselet, journalist and staunch famous famous.journalist staunch defender of of
gastronomy gastronomy was considered considered to be he anything anything but a
connoisseur. connaisseur. Chavette, who ran the Bribant Brébanl restauiant,
restaurant, one day took it it into into his head to invite invite Monselet to ta
dinner. The The menu menu was:
Swallow's SwaIJow's nest nesl soup

Brill
lzard Izard cutlets Capercaillie Capereaîllie Good Hope. Hope, etc. Wines Wines
from Tokay, Tokay, the Rhine, Cape of Good
dishes. Monselet gave the highest prai.se praise to each of of these dishes. Joseph
H6mard Hémard describes how how Chavette, looking looking stern and tragic, tragie,
pointed an accusihg accusihg finger l'inger at al Monselet when the meal had had
ended: ended: 'You have just, 'Vou just, he jeered jeered with witb a fiendish
laugh, 1augh, publicly public1y your ignorance. The was a The swallow's nest soup
soup was swallow's nest admitted your admitted pur6e ofnood1es cooked of noodles
and kidney beans; purée beans; the brill briB was cod cooked on a fine comb (and
(and to illustrate illustrale his point he showed showed him the carefully
preserved of two carefully preserved backbone made of two yellow yellow combs were
lamb cutlets were izard euùets sewn together back sewn back to ta back); baek); the
tbe izard a small small was a capercaillie was cutlets marinated in bitters; the
capercaîllie cutlets marinated in bitters; the Clos-Vougeot turkey sprinkled with a
a glass of absinth! The Clos-Vougeot of cognac and a a flower of cognac by adding a
was made made by a spoonful of fiower of was nothing violet to the Tokay was an
ordinary ordinary wine; the violet to an nothing but but a punch added; for the
South as for the South M6gon added; and as with a a Utile little punch Mâçon with
simply aChablis.' African wine, it was u,as simply African wine, a Chablis.' 'I
recognised recognised the . . :, .', Monse\e1 Monselet protested timidly, timidly,
'l ·'But "But .. perfume of the little . . .' little Rhine flower .. perfume 'Which
we obtained with a few drops of of thyme.' thyme.' ofessence 'Which essence of Then
confronted confronted head. Then Monselet lowered his his head. Overcome, Monse!et
and lheir their by the laughter of of the the other other guests and the
unrestrained laughter and penance, for for an exhortations for for peaance, an
amende amende honorable, and flung hims.elf himself to to his sort, he he fiung
other encouragements encouragements of of [hat that sort, other in a a clasped, and
and entreated entreated in in front front of of Chavette, hands dasped. knees in
trembling voiee: voice: trembling 'Mercy! Pray don't Don't spread this abroad!
don't betray me! Doo't you! l I beg of you! I have children!' children!' Save me
from dishonour, 1 probably conc\uded The soirée concluded with with much much
drinking drinking and soirEe probably The not seem merriment. At At ail secret does
does not seem ta to have all evenls, events, the the secret merriment. yet another
been weil well kept. kept. No No more, in fact, fact, than than on on yet more, in
been guest of the author occasion when the same Monselet was the guest same
Monselet occasion Favre. The The latter latter Dictionnaire de de cuisine,
cuisine,Joseph of the Grand Dictionnaire Joseph Favre. had wri written: tten :
'Dear Maître, fork will be be a a fork there will Maitre, tomorrow tomorrow at at
midday, midday, there 'Oear party at Fulbert Dumonteil. Dumonteil. at the home of
our friend Fulbert luncheon party I shall shall be doing the eooking.' cooking.' 1
journalist, novelist aod guest, the joumalisl, There was was to be a fourth guest,
and a fourth politician, Tony The meou follows: R6villon. The as foUows: menu was
was as Tony Révillon. polîtician, en caùse caisse Burbot liver en Isigny butter
butter Saucissondc LyonSaucisson de Lyon -Isigny Salmon escalopes, escalopes,
tartare sauce sauce Salmon New potatoes New Omelette d l'ambre gris

(lj

lt H

Large amphibious amphibious HIppoporAME HIP PO POT AMUS. HIPPOPOTAME -- Large

HIPPTOPOTAMUS. food by the for food pachyderm whose flesh is mueh much sought after
for pac:;n"loerm natives. African natives.
(Gastronomic). SUPERCHERlES cAsrRoNoMIQUEs surnncnnnres GASTRONOMIQUES HOAXES
(G.astrollomic). of one gastronomic hoaxes By gastronomie we mean the substituting
of hoaxes we By mean the product for anolher, another, or practical jokes and
tricks of a similar product are nature. The various forms of falsification
involving fraud are mystify and surprise Hoaxes intended to mystil'y not dealt with
here. Hoaxes downfalsification harmless; while commercial falsifica are usually
harmless; tian is dowoto or or detracting right dishonest. dishonest. The latter
involves adding to right product and an and offering offering an from a a
wholesome, wholesome, high-grade product from purpose of (or even of its place for
the the purpose in Îts even harmful) one in inferior (or gain. illicit gain.
îllicit It may be gastronomic hoax may take severaI forms. lt several forms. The
gastronomie his guests of his advantags of who takes takes unfair advantage the
jest of a a host host who to test the the it may may be [0 a proper meal; meal; it
before serving them them with a the gastronomic skills order ta to amuse the a
particular guest in arder gastronomie skills of a with the others; it it may be
dietated dictated by by evenL~ events with the tacil tacit may even even be others;
the agreement of be a a practical joke, where the finally, it may he of all;
finally. agreement out of of host mystifies mystifies everybody by suddenly
producing from out host it all that that it some startling novelty (which may not
be ail the blue sorne be) ! appears to be)! out invitations invitations de la la
Reynière Reyniire sent sent out a hosthost - Grimod de Jest of a 'Economists'
luncheon', for a a SQ-called a luneheon luncheon party, a so-called 'Economists'
for world. and agricultural agricultural world. reserved for specialists in the
business and announced that that When they arrived, the master of the the house
announced the mas When 1er of guests together could taste ail all he had so that
that they they could had gathered his gueslS together so he grain(baked for vary
and grainsorts of of breads (baked varying of time) and sorts mg lengths of based
beverages. beverages. based Knowing the la Reynière's Reynidre's reputation of of
Grimod Grimod de de la the reputatîon Knowing guests had can table, the fasted the
before. So So one one can the guests had faste<:! the day day before. table,
However, they they their surprise at this announcement. announc€ment. However,
surprise at imagine their greedily swallowed warm and and cold cold set to to with
with a swallowed hot, hot, warm a will will and and greedily set
455 455

Dessert Dessert

quite an It appeared to from the to be be quite an ordinary ordinary menu., menu,

apart apart from the Il ambergris. ambergris.
HOCCO
Monselet Monselet started off off by being late and lunch was already fishermen
know the hog-fish under such names as as scorpion, (sea-devil). crapaud dc mer
(sea-devil). crapaud (toad) or diable de is tough, the hog-fish is is not used and
is used other The flesh flesh of the tough, and than for bouillabaisse
bouillabaisse or similar fish soups.

over at 4 4 o'clock. o'c1ock. But, But, unover when when he he eventually

eventually arrived arrived at dismayed, the the guests guests began began again,
for for they were as eager as Favre that the the plot plot should should succeed.
succeed. As As he he savoured the Favre that
various various dishes, dishes, Monselet Monselet discoursed knowledgeably
knowledgeably upon upon each each one. one. The The omelette omelette particularly
particularly delighted him; he he could not not find find words words enough to do
it it justice. justice. Finally, Final1y, Favre was unable unable to to contain
contain himself himself any any longer longer and and showed showed him him the the
real menu. menu. The The result result was was catastrophic. catastrophic. We We
must must add add that that a few few days previously the celebrated celebrated
physiologist, had received received a number number of of crocodiles physiologist,
Paul Paul Bert, Bert, had from order to to study study their from Egypt Egypt which
which he he planned planned to to dissect dissect in in order nervous who was
present present at the anatomy, anatomy, nervous system. system. Favre, Favre, who
declared declared that that these these reptiles reptiles were were good good to to
eat, eat, so Paul Bert set aside aside two two brains brains and and a a piece
piece of of tail tail for himself, himself, while while Favre Favre carried six
eggs eggs just just about abou t carried awty away a a whole whole tail, tail, four
four brains brains and six ready ready for for laying. laying. And And so so it it
was was that that the the crocodiles' crocodiles' brains brains became became
burbot burbot livers; livers; the the escalopes escalopes of crocodile crocodile
tail became became escalopes escalopes of salmon; salmon; and and the the omelette
omelette of ofcrocodile crocodile eggs eggs became became omelette omelette d à
I'ambre l'ambre gris. To To crown crown it it all, ail, Favre Favre substituted
substituted ordinary horsemeat horsemeat sausage sausage for for the the saucisson
saucisson de de Lyon, Lyon, and and as as for for the the Isigny Isigny butter,
butter, it it was was simply simply margarine. margarine. Hoaxes of the the
Continental Continental Hoaxes dictated dictated by by events events - At At the
the time time of System, System, beet beet sugar sugar took took the the place
place of of cane cane sugar sugar (and (and still still does). During the the
Second Second World World War, War, grape grape sugar sugar (which (which did
does). During not not require require coupons) coupons) was was preferred preferred
to to saccharin saccharin as as a substitute substitute for for ordinary ordinary
sugar. sugar. Certainly Certainly the the most most famous famous period under this
this heading heading was was the the Siege Siege of of Paris Paris 1870-1871. 1870-
1871. period under Because Because of of the the lack lack of of food food people
people had had to to have have recourse recourse to to substitutes, which, as
number of ofwhich, as presented presented by by the the best best chefs, chefs,
substitutes, a a number gave fortunate few. few. The The gave some sorne pleasant
pleasant evenings evenings to to the the fortunate mutton-flavoured mutton-
flavoured rat rat is is famous, famous, but but the the equally equally famous
famous elephant elephant pie pie was, was, in in fact, fact, made made with with
mice. mice. It It seemed seemed to to be be the the general general opinion opinion
that that the the zoological zoological gardens gardens possessed possessed a a
whole troop of ofelephants elephan ts (instead (instead of of only only two) two)
to to provide provide the the whole troop wherewithal wherewithal to to fill fill
all ail the the pies. pies. And And it it was was a a bone, bone, a a mouse's
mouse's bone, that led led to to the the discovery discovery of of what what lay
lay bone, found found in in a a pie pie dish dish that at at the the bottom bottom
of of the the affair. affair. But But it it was was very very good. good. And And
that, that, after after all, ail, was was the the main main thing. thing. And what
about about the the concierge concierge in in Paris Paris who, who, in in 1917,
1917, raised raised And what a that he he could could sell sel! dozens dozens
offresh offresh eggs eggs daily? daily? a few few chickens chickensso so that The
prototype prototype is is certainly certainly the the 'bouri'bouriThe practical
practical ioke joke - The The bout', a a dish dish invented invented comparatively
comparatively recently recently by by the the humhumbout', orist orist Henry Henry
Monier. Monier. He He had had discussed discussed the the dish dish with with some
sorne of of his hisjournalist journalist colleagues, colleagues, gastronomes
gastronomes like like himself, himself, mentionmentioning ing that that there there
was was no no restraurant restraurant in in Paris Paris where where it it could
could be be found. found. A A restaurateur restaurateur upon upon hearing hearing
this this declared dec1ared that that he he prepare it. it. The The late late
Marius Marius Richard Richard described described knew how how to to prepare knew
theevent event in in his his column, column, praising praising the the marvellous
marvel10us dish dish eaten eaten in in the the same same restaurant. restaurant.
And And they they say say that that Monier Monier himself himself was was the quite
quiteastonished astonished to toknow know that that the'bouribort' the 'bouribout'
was was nothing nothing but but a duck duck with with cherries. cherries, otherwise
otherwise known known as as canard canard d à la la a Montmorency. Montmorency.

HOG'S HOG'S FAT. pfi.ttts PANNE - The fat which covers the pig's kidneys and
fillets. fillets. It is used for making fine fine forcemeats and and black black
(blood) produces superior down it (blood) puddings. puddings. Rendered Rendered
down it produces quality lard which in French is called axonge.

rtrs TÊTE or DE poRc PORC - A kind of galantine (q.v.)

head.

HOG'S IIEAD CIIEESE or PORK PTORK DRA BRAWN. HEAD CHEESE WN.

FRoMAcE DE FROMAGE

made from hog's

HOLLAND HOLLAND - See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. HOLLANDAISESAUCEHOLLANDAISE

SAUCE - Name of made with of a hot sauce saucemadewith
egg egg yolks yolks and and butter. butter.

It It is is served served with with eggs, eggs, fish and and vegetables.

(See SAUCE.) SA UCE.)

HOLL Y. Horx HOUX - Evergreen shrubs. shrubs. In In sorne HOLLY. some countries,
notably Corsica, Corsica, holly berries berries are are roasted and and powdered
notably
and are are used used to make make a 6dn16 drink similar similar to coffee. and
excellent clear holly spirit produced in Alsace. Alsace. There is an excellent
Butcher's-broom or or kneeholly. knee-hoUy. noux-tnftol, HOUX -FRÉLON, perrr-Hor-rx
PETIT-HOUXButcher's.broom

European plant used used in in pharmacy. pharmacy. Its Its root root has has
diuretic European properties. The young young shoots shoots of of the plant are
edible and can properties. The be cooked cooked in the the same way as as
asparagus. asparagus. be

HOLL YHOCK. ,l'rcfs ALCÉE - Plant originating originating in in Lebanon. Lebanon.

It HOLLYHOCK. has an appreciable appreciable nutritive content. content. A
nourishing starch has flour is is obtained obtained from its roots. flour

HONEY. MIEL MIEL - Sweet liquid liquid manufactured manufactured in the sac sac of
of the HONEY. worker bee bee from from the nectar nectar secreted in certain
certain flowers and worker introduced by by the the insect insect into into the the
cells of of the the hive. Honey was introduced of ancient ancient times when when
cane sugar sugar was a the chief chief sweet sweet food food of the rarity. rarity.
It is is a a particularly particularly energising energising food, food, providing
providing 300 300 calories It per 100 100 g. g. The sugars it contains contains are
completely completely assimilable per by the the body. body. Honey Honey contains
contains hardly hardly any any vitamins; vitamins; only only in the by proportion
of of 2 mg. to to 100 100 g. g. proportion Several grades grades of of honey honey
are are sold sold commercially: Several 1. Virgin Virgin or or superfine superfine
honey, honey, extracted from the the combs combs by l. exposure to to the the sun
sun or or gentle gentle heat. heat. exposure 2. Common Common or or yellow yellow
honey, honey, extracted extracted under under greater greater heat. heat. 2. 3.
Brown Brown honey, honey, extracted extracted by by pressure pressure under under
heat. heat. 3. Honey is is a a very very rich rich and and concentrated
concentrated food. food. Its effect is is Honey similar to to that that of of sugar
sugar but but it it is is more more readily readily assimilated. similar Apart from
from this, this, it it is is medically medically prescribed prescribed or or
prohibited prohibited in in Apart and in particular particular is is forbidden
forbidden to the same same cases cases as as sugar, sugar, and the diabetics. It It
is is slightly slightly laxative. laxative. diabetics. that of children, children,
honey honey can take take the In diet, diet, especially especially that In place of
of sugar sugar in in almost almost all ail its its uses, uses, though though there
there are are people people place who find find it it indigestible. indigestible.
who

HOCCO -- Type Type of of gallinaceous gallinaceous bird bird of of which which

there there are are a a HOCCO ofCentral Central dozenspecies speciesto tobe befound
found in in the theequatorial equatorial regions regions of dozen America. They
Theyare aresimilar similarto to the theEuropean European turkey turkey and and have
have a a America. certain number number are are bred bred in in the the delicious
white white flesh. flesh. A A certain delicious poultry-runs of ofFrance. France.
poultry-runs ln his his Souvenirs Souvenirs d'imigration, d'émigration, Brillat-
Savarin Brillat-Savarin mentions mentions In ofwild turkey and and remarks remarks
upon upon its its succulent succulent flesh. flesh. thiskind kind of this wild
turkey Itis iscooked cooked in inthe thesame sameway wayas asturkey turkey (q.v.).
(q.v.). It HOG-FISH. RAScASSE RASCASSE - Fish Fish oblong oblong in in shape shape
and and rather rather HOG-FISH.
but mostly mostly greyish greyish with with black black markings. markings. The The
Provengal Provençal but 456 456
Hocco

highbacked, backed,with wi thaa large largeand and spiny spinyhead. head. It 1thas
hasspikes, spikes,whose w hose high prick is is poisonous, poisonous, on on its its
dorsal dorsal fins. fins. Its Its colouring colouring is is varied, varied, prick
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
The The quality, quality, consistency, consistency, aroma aroma and and flavour
flavour of of honey honey vary varyaccording according to tothe the type type of
offlowers flowersmost mostwidespread widespreadin inthe the region is gathered.
gathered. The The best best is is made made from from the the region where where it
it is nectar nectar of of labiates labiates (thyme, (thyme, mother mother of of
thyme). thyme). Narbonne Narbonne honey honey owes owesits itsdistinctive
distinctive flavour flavoU! to to the the nectar nectar of ofrosemary. rosemary.
The Themost mosthighly highlyreputed reputed honey honeyis isthat thatof ofHymetus
Hymetusin inGreece, Greece, France that that of ofNarbonne, Narbonne, Gfltinais,
Gâtinais, Champagne Champagne and and and in in France and Savoy. Spring Spring
honey honey is is superior superior to to autumn autumn honey. honey. Savoy.
Certain impart a a distinctive distinctive flavour ftavour to to honey honey which
which Certainplants plants impart is is sometimes sometimes unpleasant unpleasant
(for (for instance, instance, honey honey gathered gathered from from pines, made
from from the the pines, which which has has a a resinous resinous taste). taste).
Honey Honey made nectar of of poisonous poisonous plants plants such such as as
belladonna belladonna can can itself itself be be nectar poisonous. poisonous.
HONGROISE HONGROISE (A (À LA) LA) - Dishes Dishes prepared prepared d à la la
hongroise hongroise arc are cooked in in a a cream cream sauce sauce seasoned
seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Eggs, Eggs, fish, fish, cooked meat meat
(other (other than than pork pork products), products), poultry, poultry, etc.,
etc., can can be be preprepared pared d à la la hongror'se. hongroise. Recipes
Recipes for for these these dishes dishes are are given given in in appropria te
headings. headings. alphabetical order order under under appropriate alphabetical
delicate, delicate, especially especially when when served served before before a a
rather rather heavy heavy menu menu consisting consisting of ofaa number number of
ofcourses. courses. With hors-d'œuvre may may be be more more With a a light light
luncheon, luncheon, the the hors-d'euvre substantial substantial and and
nourishing. nourishing. horsandhot hors'd'euvre cold There main types: types: cold
hors-d'œuvre and hot horsThere are are two two main d'euvre. d'œuvre. Cold Cold
hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, usually usually served served with with luncheon,
luncheon, are are of of two two kinds: kinds: those those which which can canbe be
bought bought ready ready for for the the table table and and home. preparation at
those those which which require require some sorne preparation at home. Formerly,
Formerly, hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre wete were called called entrdes entrées
volantes volantes ot or petites petites enties. entrées. They They generally
generally formed formed part part of of the the dinner dinner menu, menu, and and
were were served served after after the the soup. soup. Hot Hot hors'd'euvre hors-
d'œuvre can, can, however, however, be be served served at at luncheon luncheon at
at the the same same time time as as cold cold hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre. Nowadays,
Nowadays, it it is is customary customary to to serve serve a a wide wide variety
variety of of horshorsd'euvre at the the beginning beginning of of a a luncheon.
luncheon. d'œuvre at from Russia, imported custom a France France has has also also
adopted adopted a custom imported from Russia, of of serving serving hors-d'euvre
hors-d'œuvre in in a a special special way; way; as as zakouski' zakouski, a a kind
kind hors'd'euvre, up of made entirely meal, meal-before-the of of meal-before-the
meal, entirely made up of hors-d'œuvre, washed washed down down with with liberal
liberal draughts draughts of of wine wine and and liqueur. liqueur. Formerly,
Formerly, in in Russia, Russia, this this was was served served in in an an ante-
chamber ante-chamber adjoining adjoining the the dining dining room. room. In In
France, France, the the custom custom has has been been somewhat somewhat modified.
modified. rasse, these d la hots-d'euvre à Under Under the the name name of of
zakouski zakouski or or hors-d'œuvre la russe, these guests at the to the and
served trays on snacks snacks are are arranged arranged on trays and served to the
guests at the table table itself. itself. snacks must These snacks of cold
Presentatim of - These Presentation cold hors-d'cuwe hors-d'œuvre must be be
presented presen ted elegantly. elegan tly . the hostess. help to hints a few Here
Here are are a few hints to help the hostess. china sets' china hors'd'euvre sets,
special hors-d'œuvre from special Apart from l. The dishes. dishes. Apart 1. The
plate may may gold or or silver silver plate or antique antique gold plates and
glass plates dishes or and dishes or glass or porringers, pottery or silver
porringers, or silver plates, pottery rustic-style plates, Old rustic-style be used
used. be . Old effectively. very effectively. used very can be be used etc, can
bowls, etc, crystal bowls, crystal purely decorative, decorative, though purely
garnishes. Gamishes, Garnishes, though 2. The The garnishes. 2. garnishes. great
variety of such such garnishes. variety of is a a great There is edible. There all
be be edible. must aIl must grve a very attractive attractive a very they give
arranged, they and arranged, chosen and Tastefully chosen Tastefully garnish common
garnish The most most common hors-d'euvte. The the hors-d'œuvre. to the appearance
to appearance used It can can be be used green and curly. It and curly. very green
be very must be which must iJparsley, is parsley, which or chopped. chopped. in
sprigs sprigs or in tarragon, garnished with chervil, tarragon, with chervil, be
garnished canalso Hors-d'euvre can Hors-d'œuvre also be greento these these
greencontrast to As a a contrast hearts. As lettuce hearts. aod lettuce watercress
and watercress used. Beetroot be used can be beetroot can and beetroot lemon and of
lemon half slices slices of stuffs, half stuffs, . Beetroot ways. in other other
ways. and in matchsticks and into matchsticks cut into diced, cut served diced, is
served is any using any varied by by using be varied can be &ors'd'euvre can of
hors-d'œuvre decoration of The the decoration pomegranate seeds, seeds, gherkins,
red red pomegranate capers, gherkins, following: capers, ofihe of the following:
small or chopped), chopped), small quartered or (halved, quartered eggs (halved,
hard-boiled eggs hard-boiled or chopped, chopped, rings or into rings sliced into
onions pickled onions, large on onions, large pickled ions sliced peas, asparagus
green peas, asparagus beans, green French beans, beans, French kidney beans, small
kidney small radish, the the black radish, radishes, black turnips, radishes, and
turnips, carrots and tips, boiled boiled carrots tips, peppers' green peppers,
yellow, red red and and green leeks, yellow, of leeks, and stalks stalks of leaves
and leaves etc. trufres, etc. mushrooms, truffies, mushrooms, can flowers can and
colour, colour, ftowers form and in form greater variety variety in To achieve
achieve greater To edible), (whose leaves arealso alsoedible), leaves are
Nasturtiums (whose used. Nasturtiums be used. also be also the enhance the
allenhance daisiesail and daisies chrysanthemums and violets, chrysanthemums
borage, violets, borage, effect. decorative effect. decorative stated
otherwisestated Unless otherwise hot hors-d'œuvre hopd'cuweofhot Presentation of
Presentation - Unless hothors-d'euvre particular item, item,hot toaaparticular
relating to theentry entry relating under the under hors-d'œuvre paperdoily, and
doily, and oraapaper napkinor folded napkin dish, aafolded onaadish, areserved
served on are their to their parsleyaccording according to fried parsley or fried
fresh or garnished with with fresh garnished cromesquis fritters, cromesquis as
fritters, such as &ors-d'euvresuch Fried hors-d'œuvre nature. Fried nature.
matchstick nestsof of matchstick in nests servedin beserved may be etc., may
croquettes,etc., croquettes, potatoes. potatoes.
These FRoIDs- -These HoRs-D'GtryREFROIDS HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE COLD HORS-
D'ŒUVRE. COLD dice, cutinto intodice, ingredients, cut orseveral
severalingredients, oneor ofone usually consist consistof usually mayonorwith
withaamayondressingor vinegardressing anoil oiland andvinegar withan seasoned,with
seasoned, pur6es specialpurées forcemeats,special butters, forcemeats,
sauce.Compound Compoundbutters, naisesauce. naise added. alsobe beadded. mayalso
andsalpicons salpiconsmay and 457 457

HOP. HoLJBLoN HOUBLON - Hardy Hardy plant plant grown grown in in many many
countries. countries. HOP. The cones cones of of the the female plant are used used
in the the brewing brewing of of The beer. beer. Hop slroots. shoots. JETs JETS DE
HouBLoN HOUBLON - In In French cookery, cookery, the the Hop namejets jets de de
houblon houblon is is given given to the the edible edible flowers flowers of of
the the male name plant, or panicles. The edible tip of the panicle is broken
broken samewayas way as green green asparagus asparagus away from itswoody its
woody stem stem in in the same awayfrom tips. of Hop shoots are boiled in salt
water, with a few drops of lemon juice. Once they are cooked they can be treated in
in a different ways: number of of different ln butter. Toss for a few seconds in
butter. butter. In butter. cream. ln cream. Toss in butter and simmer in fresh
cream. In in seconds III few seconds for a a few Simmer in butter. butter. Sim Toss
in In stock. Toss ln stock. mer for concentrated brown brown veal stock. garnish
with with vegetable or a gamish Hop shoots may be served as a vegetable with as a a
garnish with used as various dishes. In In particular they are used eggs.

Branch of ofhop Branch hop cones with con with es

prized, hop hop is much much prized, this vegetable vegetable is In where this In
Belgium, Belgium, where are always always vegetable, are served as as aa vegetable,
shoots, are served when they they are shoots, when and ontop top and in aacircle
circle on garnished with poached eggs arranged in eggsarranged garnished with
poached cocks' inthe theshape shapeof ofcocks' cut in interspersed of bread bread
cut cro0tons of interspersed with withcroûtons combs and fried fried in inbutter.
butter. combs and in the the panicles or not sold sold in are not In or shoots
shootsare hop panicles In U.S.A. U.S.A. hop producing regions regions large hop hop
producing some large market, aresorne but there there are market, but where found.
theymay may be be found. where they upthe the toscrape scrape up utensil, used used
to HORN. Little horn horn utensil, HORN. CORNE coRNE - - Little on marble marble
oron remains in basins, basins, or in mortars, mortars, in remains of of mixtures
mixtures in
slabs. slabs.
areaddiaddithesesnacks snacksare HORS-D'ŒUVRE Bydefinition, definition, these
HOR$D'(EWRE - - By lightand and belight tional They should therefore be should
therefore tothe menu.They tional to themenu.
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

Hors-d'œuvre vegetables vegetables (Rare (Robert Carrier) Hors-d'ceuvre rt Carrier)

458
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

some Sorne cold cold hors-d'ceuvre: hors-d'œuvre: salad salad of of ox 0,; muzzle,
muzzle, artichokes articbokes d à la la grecque, grecque, mushrooms, mushrooms,
cucumber cucumbcr

according to method of preparation after this this varies varies according to the
method particular dish for which they are intended. and different For hors-d'euvre
hors-d'œuvre and different garnishes. garnishes. Soak Soak the the anFor above.
Scrape and clean chovies and cut them into fillets fiUets as above. removed. have
been removed. scales have weIl to ensure all the scales ensure that ail them well
Dry cloth. Dry lightly lightly in a clotho whole, them who leave them or leave
small strips strips or Cut fillets into le, into small the fillets 1 Cut the
according to the dish for which they are intended. terrine. Cover dish or or
terrine. a deep deep dish Arrange anchovy fillets in a fillets in with olive oil.
Put the lid on the dish and keep in a cool place.
1

The following foIlowing are are the the most most lsval usual hors-d'euvre' hors-
d'œuvre. The Aceto-dolce - See Sozr-sweet Sour-sweet pickles pickles below.
AcetodolceAllumettes - See Pastry Pastry straws straws below. below. Allumettes
Anchovies. ANcHoIS ANCHOIS - These must must first first be be freed from salt.
Anchovies. stuffings, For dffirent different mixtures mixtures (compound (compound
butters, butters, stuffings, For pur6es, purées, salpicons, salpicons, sauces,
etc.). Wash Wash the anchovies, soak sauces, etc.). them in cold water, cut into
fillets, clean and dry them. The thern

Use as indicated. Er OEUFS oEUFS ,c,NcHots ET I. ANCHOIS Anchovies hard-boiled eggs

eggs I. and hard-boiled Anchovies and anchovy third anchovy and one one third DURS
DuRs - Two thirds hard-boiled eggs and vinegar, salt, salt, with oil, oil, vinegar,
fillets Season with dice. Season small dice. fillets cut cut into into small
mayonnaise' pepper and finely chopped chopped herbs, or with mayonnaise. Attx OEUFS
oEUFs II. ANCHOIS lNcnots AUX Anchovies eggs ll. hard-boild eggs Anchovies and and
hard-boiled (see below). Garnish below). Garnish in oil oil (see DURS for Anchovies
in as for DuRs -- Proceed Proceed as chopped eggs chopped with yolks and of hard-
boiled hard-boiled eggs and white white of the yolks with the parsley. separately,
and chopped chopped parsley. capers and separately, capers of marinated marinated
garnish and decoration of The and decoration The dressing, dressing, garnish
additional from the the additional Apart from anchovy varied. Apart can be be
varied. fillets can anchovy fillets can be be items can variety of of other other
items ingredients a variety above, a mentioned above, ingredients mentioned (see
CHIFFONNADE), CHIFFONNADE), used, chffinnade (see used, e.g. e.g. Lettuce Lettuce
chiffonnade etc. 1 olives, tarragon, etc. chervil, tarragon, lemon, chervil,
olives, beetroot, beetroot, lemon, fresh Put fresh grecque. ANCHOIS A LA t,l
GRECQUE cnBcQue -- Put 1 Ancbovies ANcHoIs À la grecque. Anchovies à i ]a hours.
for 2 2 hours. into salt salt for anchovies, in a a cloth, cloth, into dried in and
dried cleaned and anchovies, cleaned to ensure ensure individually to Soak shake
them them individually and shake in cold water, and Soak in cold water, in smoking
smoking oil. oil. only in that I minute minute only for 1 Sear for off. Sear falls
off. that all all the the salt salt falls in aa terrine. terrine. layers in in
layers Drain and arrange arrange in Drain the the anchovies anchovies and sweet
bay, bay, thyme, sweet [ Each with thyme, be sprinkled sprinkled with layer should
should be Each layer (see II (see grains. Make coriander pepper grains. Make Court-
bouillon Court'bouillon II coriander and and pepper the pour, while over the COURT-
BOUILLON) still boiling, boiling, over while still and pour, COURT-BOUILLON) and 24
hours. hours. anchovies. for 24 this court-bouillon them in in this court-
bouillonfot Marinate them anchovies. Marinate the marinade, marinade, Serve with
the dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with in an hors-d'ezvre dish. Serve in an hors-d'œuvre
freshly with freshly peeled lem sprinkle with garnish on and and sprinkle garnish
with lemon of peeled with slices slices of cbopped fennel. chopped fennel. d
d'anchois à as Escabèche Escabiche d'anchois In known as is also also known this
dish dish is In France France this la grecqte. la grecque. A LA LA NORMANDE
NoRMANDE - Ancbovies lucHors À la normande. normande. ANCHOIS Archovies ài la
(q.v.) of of Arrange onaasalpicon salpicon (q.v.) fillets on anchovyfillets the
marinated marinated anchovy Arrange the withaa rennet Surround with with
mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Surround apples seasoned seasoned with rennet apples thin
withaathin border Dress with dice. Dress very small smalldice. cut into into very
border of of beetroot beetroot cut trickle ofoil. trickle of oil. Norwegian - These
(kilkis).ANCHOIS DsNORVÈGE NoRvtcB-These ANcHoIsDE anchovies(kilkis). Norwegian
anchovies an onan prepared. Arrang~ anchovies on can the anchovies Arrangethe ready
prepared. can be bought ready be bought
1 1

slices of hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and and surround surround with with
half half slices of lemons lemons cut cut with Sprinkle with a fluted with with a
fluted cutter, cutter, and and with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Sprinkle
several tablespoons tablespoons of of their their marinade. marinade. in ail all
ways ways kilkis can Norwegian anchovies ot Norwegian anchovies or kilkis can be be
used used in indicated indicated for for anchovies anchovies in in brine. brine.
from anchovies from A r'surrE oil. ANCHOIS eNcnots À Anchovies in oïl. - Free
Anchovies L'HUlLE Free anchovies in dish, in onan hors-d'euvre dish, strips.
Arrange salt. Cut Cut into salt. into thin thin strips. Arrange on an hors-d'œuvre
parsley. Dress Dress chopped parsley. pattern. Garnish capers and and chopped with
capers Garnish with a pattern. a of oil. oil. with a a thin trickle of with thin
trickle p'ANcHoIs -- Anchovy Anchovy sALADEs D'ANCHOIS various. SALADES Anchovy
salads, saladq various. Ancbovy salad. by a salado accompanied bya eggs accompanied
hard-boiled eggs in oil with hard-boiled fillets in oil or with great variety
variety of of a great with a be served served with can be salad can Anchovy salad
Anchovy (see CHIFFONNADE), boiled CHIFFONNADE), boiled chffinnade (see dishes:
Lettuce chiffonnade dishes: a fine fine cut into into a dice, celeriac celeriac cut
or dice, potatoes cut fine slices slices or into fine cut into potatoes julienne
(q.v.), (q.v.), etc. etc. julienne the ananare accompaniments; accompaniments; the
additions are various additions These various These the dish. dish. chovies
dominate the chovies Free anchovy anchovy o'ANcHoIs -- Free PAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS
scrolls. PAUPIETTES Anchovy seroUs. A.nchovy the fillets fillets Flatten the a
clotho cloth. Flatten dry in in a and dry from salt, salt, scrape, scrape, and
fillets from pur6e or other or any any other of fish fish purée layer of a thin
thin layer with a coat them them with and coat and into the fillets fillets into
Roll the hors-d'euvre. Roll for cold cold hors-d'œuvre. suitable for mixture
suitable scrolls. serolls. garnish with the with the and garnish dish and hors-
d'euvre dish in an an hors-d'œuvre Arrange them them in Arrange separately, chopped
separately, yolks and hard-boiled eggs eggs chopped of hard-boiled and whites
whites of yolks of oil. oil. trickle a thin thin trick parsley. Dress with a Dress
with chopped parsley. and chopped capers, and capers, le of nATEo'ANcHoIs
BATEPAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETfES anchovy serous. Bargemants anchovy
Bargeman's tunny with tunny them with and stuff stuff them scrolls and anchovy
scrolls Make anchovy r.rinu -- Make LIÈRE them Arrange them mayonnaise. Arrange
(tuna fish) pur6e blended with mayonnaise. blendd with fish) purée (tuna with aa
Garnish with shells. Garnish barquette shells. baked barquette in small small baked
two in two by by two two gherkins, seasoned seasoned and gherkins, eggs and hard-
boiled eggs with hard-boiled made with salpicon made salpicon garnish paper doyley
and garnish doyley and a paper on a Arrange on with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Arrange
with parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. with MoND'^nNcHots MONPAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS
scrolls. PAUPIETTES anchovy serolls. Monselet anchovy Monselet the with the made
with stuffing made with aa stuffing scrolls with Fill anchovy anchovy serolls sELEr
-- Fill SELET toasted on aatoasted each scroll scroll on Arrange each yolks of
eggs. Arrange hard-boiled eggs. of hard-boiled yolks (seeBUTTER, BUTTER, butter
(see Anchovy butter with Anchovy covered with of bread bread covered canapi of
canapé butters). Compound butters). Compound put aasmall small and put capers and
ringof of capers with aaring scrolls with the scroIls Surround the Surround in
each. each. tarragon in sprig of of tarragon sprig parsley. garnish with fresh
parsley. with fresh paper doyley and garnish doyley and on aa paper Arrange on
Arrange ALA rl D'aNcHoIs À PAUPIETTEs D'ANCHOIS nigoise. PAUPIETTES la niçoise.
scrolls ài la Anchovy serolls Anchovy (see butter (see Tarragonbutter withrTarragon
scrolls withanchovy scrolls NIgoIsE -- Fill Fill anchovy NIçoISE butter). Compound
butter). BUTTER, Compound BUTTER, twoand twothemand marinate them raw tomatoes,
tomatoes,marinate small raw Hollow small Hollow inthe the pur6e. Place thescrolls
scrolls in Place the fish purée. with aa fish thirds fill fill each each with
thirds pur6e. of fish purée. thefoundation foundationoffish tomatoeson onthe
tomatoes dishand and hors-d'euvre dish onan anhors-d'œuvre Arrangeon taste. Arrange
to taste. Decorate to Decorate ofoil. oil. trickle of dresswith with aatrickle
dress vATEL- -Stuff Stuff o'ANcHoIs VATEL PAUPIETTEs D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETTES
Vatel ancbovy anchovyserolls. Vatel (seeBUTTER, ComBUTTER,Combutter(see
Anchovybutter withAnchovy anchovy scrolls scrollswith anchovy added. hasbeen
beenadded. tarragon has which chopped chopped tarragon poundbutters) towhich
butters) to pound two-thirds puffpastry. Fillthese thesetwo-thirds pattycases
ofpuff casesof Makesmall small patty Make pastry. Fill

4s9 459
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
with a salpicon of marinated tunny (tuna fish) and truffies with a salpicon of
marinated tunny (tuna fish) and truffles seasoned with mayonnaise. Put I scroll on
each patty, and a seasoned with mayonnaise. Put 1 scroU on each patty, and a sliver
of trufre on each scroll, topped with a dot of butter topped with a dot of butter
sliver of truffle on each scroll, mixed with the yolk of hard-boiled eggs. mixed
witb the yolk of hard-boiled eggs. Arrange on paper doyley and garnish with fresh
parsley. Arrange on aapaper doyley and garnisb with fresh parsley. Artichokes.
ARTTcHAUN Small artichokes, quartered artichokes,quartered Articbokes. ARTICHAUTS -
- Small artichokes and hearts of artichokes, prepared according to articbokes and
hearts of artichokes, prepared according to the methods described under the heading
ARTICHOkE, the methods described under the heading ARTICHOKE, can be used as
ingredients for a variety of hors-d'euvre. can be used as ingredients for a variety
of hors-d'œuvre.
Artichoke hearts heartsmay garnishedwith maybe begarnished withdifferent
differentpurées purees Artichoke andwith withcaviare. caviare.Arrange Arrangethe
thehearts heartsin inan anhors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvredish. dish. and Decoratewith
with fresh parsley,hard-boiled fresh parsley, hard-boiled eggs, eggs,chopped
Decorate chopped jelly,etc. etc. jelly, Artichokehearts heartsài la grecque. FONDS
lagrecque. FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs À ALA Artichoke LA cREceuE- -Proceed
Proceodas asindicated indicated for forArtichokes grecque, Artichokesàdla
Iagrecque, GRECQUE using very verysmall smallartichoke artichoke hearts heartsor
orlarge largehearts heartscut using iutinto into slices. slices. Artichoke hearts
heartsài la Iatartare. tartare. FONDS FoNDsD'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTrcHAUrs À Artichoke
ALA u TARTARE - - Cook Cookartichoke artichokehearts heartsin inaawhite whitecourt-
bouillon court-bouillon TARTARE (q.v.);drain, drain,dry dry and andcut cut into
into slices. slices.Arrange Arrange in inan anhorshors(q.v.); d'euvre dish dishwith
with Tartare Tartare sauce (ser-,SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). d'œuvre Garnish with
with aaborder yolks of border of of the theyolks ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs
eggs and and Garnish parsley,arranged chopped parsley, arranged in inseparate
separate rows. rows. Surround Surround with with chopped half slices of ofcooked
cooked beetroot, beetroot, cut cutwith withaa fiuted-edged fluted-edged knife.
knife. halfslices artichokes. QUARTIERS D'ARTrcHAUrs -- Tender Quartered
articbokes. euARTrERs D'ARTICHAUTS Tender Quartered quartered artichokes prepared
as artichokes are are prepared as an an hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, quartered
following the instructions given the instructions given for for artichoke artichoke
hearts hearts and following and whole artichokes. artichokes. whole Assiette
anglaise anglaise -- Assortment Assortment of of different different kinds kinds of
of cold cold Assiette meat, usually usually York York ham; ham; pickled pickled
tongue; tongue; entrecôte, entrec6te, fiUet fillet or or meat, roast beef; beef;
veal; veal; pork, pork, arranged arranged on plate. on a a plate. roast jelly,
watercress Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly, gherkins. watercress and and
gherkins. Garnish Assiette anglaise anglaise is is mainly mainly served served for
for luncbeon luncheon. Assielle . Assorted bors-d'œuvre. hors-d'cuvre. ASSIETTE
ASSIETTE ASSORTIE, AssoRTIE, ASSIETTE ASSIETTE vOvoAssorted LANTE An assortment
assortment of of different different kinds kinds of of hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre,
LANTE - An mainly salted salted items, items, cut cut into very very small small
slices. slices. mainly BarErettes Small oval-shaped oval-shaped patties patties
made made of of pastry, Barquettes - Small baked blind, garnished with blind,
garnished with ditferent (see BARdifferent fillings fillings (see BARbaked Items
whicb which can be used as garnishes for QUETTES). Items for pastry QUETTES). boats
include include anchovy anchovy in in salpicon salpicon or or anchovy anchovy
scrolls, boats scrolls, smoked eel, eel, beetroot, beetroot, special special
compound compound butters butters for for horssmoked d'Guure, caviare, pickled
cucumber, caviare, pickled cucumber, prawns, prawns, shrimps, d'œuvre, crayfish,
foie gras, pickled herrings, herrings, lobster lobster and and crawfish, crawfiih,
gras, pickled crayfish, different vegetables in ditferent vegetables in salpicon or
cut into slices, poached mussels, eggs, plovers' eggs, mussels, olives, olives,
hard-boiled eggs, eggs, red red and green different sausages, green peppers,
peppers, different sausages, marinated marinated tunny, tunny, tomatoes, matoes,
truffies. truffies. The The following following serve serve as as decorations
decorations for for these these various various pastry pastry boats: boats: capers,
capers, gherkins, gherkins, beetroot, beetroot, chopped chopped jelly, jelly, hard-
boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, fresh fresb parsley, parsley, chervil, chervil,
tarragon, tarragon, lettuce. lettuce. The The following following are a few
examples. All Ali recipes recipes given for filling canapés and and tartlets
tartlets apply apply to to barquettes,which barquelles, which filling patties,
patties, canapis are are generally generally served served on on a a paper paper
doyley. doyley. On On the the menu menu they they are are often often called called
frivolitis, frivolités, a a name name originally originally given given them them
by by Escoffier. Escoffier. Bagratiu ETTEs BAcRATToN Bagration barErettes.
barquettes. BARet BARQUETTES BAGRATION - Garnish Garnish the the barquetres
barquelles with with a a thin thin layer layer of of cold Chicken Chicken purie
purée (see (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). Cover Coyer this this pur6e purée alternately
alternately with with thin thin slices slices of of breast breast of of chicken
chicken and and truffies. truffles. Spoon Spoon half-set half-set jelly jelly into
into the tbe barquettes. barquelles. Beauharnais Beauharnais barqrettes.
barquettes. BAReTJETTES BARQUETTES BEAUHARNATs BEAUHARNAIS - GarGarnish barquelles
with with a a salpicon salpicon of ofbreast breast of of chicken chicken and and
nish the the barquettes trufles. truffles. Cover Coyer this this garnish garnish
with witb a a layer layer of of mayonnaise, mayonnaise, to to which of tarragon
tarragon and and a a little little gelatine gelatine has has been been whicb a a
puree purée of added. added. Decorate Decorate with with tiny tiny pieces pieces of
oftrufres truffles and and cover coyer with with jelly. jelly. BarErettes
Barquettesià la lacancalaise cancalaise-- Garnish Garnish the thebarquetteJ
barquelleswith with aa mousse moussemade madefrom from whiting whitingor orother
otherwhite whitefish. fish .poach, Poach, drain drain and in each each and trim
trim some sorne oysters. oysters. Lay Lay these these on on the the mousse mousse
in barquette barquelleand and spoon spoonover oversome sornejelly. jeUy. Marivaux
Marivaux barErettes. barquettes. BAReuETTEs BARQUETIES MARTVAUx MARIVAUX -- Fill
Fil! the the barquettes barquelles with witb a a salpicon salpicon of of shrimps
shrimps and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with gelatine-
strengthenod gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate with
withrounds roundsof ofhard-boiled bard-boiledeggs eggsand andchervil. chervil.Coat
Coatwith withjelly. jelly. Barquettes Barquettesi àla lanormande normande-- Garnish
Garnishthe thebarquettes barquelleswith withaa salpicon salpiconof offillets
fiUetsof ofsole, sole,mussels musselsand andtrufles. truffies. Coat Coat the the
barquettes barquelles with with aa white white meatless meatless Chaud-froid Chaud-
froid

Artichokes Artichokes

Artichokes BaronBrisse. ARTTcHAUTs BARoN-BRrsss - Cut Artichokes Baron-Brisse.

ARTICHAUTS BARON-BRlSSE - Cut the hearts of artichokes into thin slices and cook
them the hearts of artichokes into slices and cook them lightly for a few moments
inthin boiling oil, oil, moving moving them them lightly for a few moments in
boiling around. Moisten with a few tablespoons of Tomato-essence few tablespoons of
Tomato essence around. Moisten with a (see ESSENCE). Add lemon juice, salt, pepper,
parsley and (see ESSENCE). Add lemon juice, salt, pepper, parsley and chopped
chervil. Boil together for a few minutes-. chopped cberviJ. Boil together for a few
minutes. Leave to cool. Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish with Leave to cool. Arrange
on an hors-d'œuvre dish with rounds of peeled lemon. rounds of peeled lemon.
Artichokes i la greque. ARrrcHAUrs A rB cnnceus Trim Artichokes à la grecque.
ARTICHAUTS À LE GRECQUE - Trim 20 small tender artichokes (see ARTICHOKE). Flavour
20 small tender artichokes (see ARTICHOKE). Flavour with lemon and plunge one after
the other into a liquid with lemon and plunge one after the other into a liquid
prepared as follows: prepared as follows: Boil together . Boil togetber for for 5 5
minutes minutes in in a a casserole casserole 5 5 dl. dl. (scant (scant pint, pint,
cunO water, I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant $ cup) oiive oit', tne l* 2* cups) water, 1
dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t cup) olive oil, the juice of I lemon, a pinch of salt,
l0 coriander seeds, l0 pepperjuice of 1lemon, a pinch of salt, 10 coriander seeds,
10 pepperc9rns, 1nd a large bouquet garni composed of paisley, corns, and a large
bouquet garni composed of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, celery and fennel. tbyme, bay
leaf, celery and fenne!. Cook the in this this court-bouillon court-bouillon for
for 18 18 to to 20 20 Cook the artichokes artichokes in minutes. Take them out of
the liquor and keep in a cool minutes. Take them out of the liquor and keep in a
cool place. Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish and serve as cold as place. Arrange on
an hors-d'œuvre dish and serve as cold as possible - iced if desired. possible -
iCed if desired. Tbis hors-d'euvre keeps fairly well, particularly if the This
hors-d'œuvre keeps fairly weIl, particularly if the artichokes are put in a narrow
pickling jar and kept in a very articbokes are put in a narrow picklingjar and kept
in a very place. cool cool place. For For a a larger larger quantity quantity (100
(100 artichokes) artichokes) sel see ARTICHOKE, Pickled artichokes d la grecque.
ARTICHOKE, Pickled artichokes à la grecque. Artichokes i ta poiwade. ARTrcHAurs A
LA porvRADE _ Articbokes à la poivrade. ARTICHAUTS À LA POIVRADE Nnme given to a
dish of small young artichokes eaten raw Name given to a dish of small young
artichokes eaten raw with Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE) strongly flavoured with
with Vinaigrelle sauce (see SAUCE) strongly flavoured with pepper. pepper.
Artichoke i la vinaigrette. ARrrcHAUrs A r.l vrNArcRETrE Articboke à la
vinaigrette. ARTICHAUTS À LA VINAIGRETTEAnother name for Artichokes d la poivrade.
Another name for Artichokes à la poivrade. Boiled artichokes, either hot or cold,
accompanied by a Boiled artichokes, eitber hot or cold, accompanied by a
Vinoigrette sauce (see SAUCE), are also served under this Vinaigrelle sauce (see
SAUCE), are also served under this name. name. Gamished artichoke hearts. FoNDs
D'ARTrcnAUTs cARMs _ Gamisbed articboke bearts. FONDS D'ARTICHAUTS GARNISPrepare
and cook very small artichoke hearts (see ARTIPrepare and cook very small artichoke
hearts (see ARTIcHoKE). CHOKE). Drain Drain and and dry dry them. them. Garnish
Garnish with with vegetable vegetable salad, salad, asparagus tips, different
salpicons (q.v.), etc.; dress with asparagus tips, different salpicons (q.v.),
etc.; dress with mayonnaise or vinaigrette sauce. mayonnaise or vinaigrelle sauce.
460 460
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put 1 poached poached oyster oyster and
and 2 2 shelled shelled crayfish crayfish tails tails on on each each boat. boat.
Spoon Spoon over over some sorne jelly. jelly.

slices. Serve Serve in in an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish or or on on a a

plate, plate, arranged arranged slices. flat fiat or or rolled ralled into into
cornets. cornets. Garnish Garnish with with parsley. parsley. Smoked Smoked beef
beef is is also also used used as as a a garnish garnish for for canapis. canapés.
Beehoot. Beetroot. BETTERAvE BETTERAVE - Beetroot Beetroot can can be be bought
bought cooked cooked in in greengrocers' greengrocers' shops shops or or it it can
can be be prepared prepared at at home. home. It It is is mainly mainly used used
for for salads. salads. slices. Arrange Peel cooked beetroot Peel the thecooked
beetroot and and cut cut it it into into thin thinslices. Arrange in in an an hors-
d'uuvre hors-d'œuvre dish. dish. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar,
vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped
chopped parsley. parsley. Beetroot cassolettes cassolettes - See See BEETROOT.
BEETROOT. Beetroot Beetroot Beetroot ià lacrime. la crème. BETTERAYE BETTERAVE A À
u, LA cnilc CRÈME - Cut Cut the the beetbeetroot root into fine fine matchsticks.
matchsticks. Season Season with with a a Mustard Mustard cre(xn cream euvre dish.
(see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve in in hors-d hors-d'œuvre di~h. sauce (se Beetroot
Beetroot and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. BETTERAVE BETTERAVE ET ET oELJFS
OEUFS DURs DURS Take equal quantities of cooked beetroot beetroot and and hard-
boiled hard-boiled eggs, both both cut into dice. Season as for Anchovies Anchovies
and and hard hard boiled boi/ed eggs (see above). above). Beetroot Beetroot I à la
nomande. normande. BETTERAvE BETTERAVE A A LA NonMlNos NORMANDE - Cut Cut beetroot
beetroot and tart apples apples into slices and arrange alternately alternately on
an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish. dish. Surround Surround with with a ring ring of
of chopped chives. Season with Vinaigrette sauce (see Season with (see SAUCE) made
made with wi th cider cider vinegar. eor DE Beetroot Beetroot salad. salado slt
SALADE DE BETTERAVE BETTERAVE - This salad is is served served with a a Vinaigrette
or a a Cream sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) as as indiindisalad bowl' cated above.
Serve Serve inanhors-d'euvre in an hors-d'œuvre dish dish or or in a a salad bowl.
Bonch6es- See Patties below. BouchéescARNIES garnished. snlocHes Brioches, small
gamished. BRIOCHES MIcNoNNES MIGNONNES GARNIESBrioches, (see BRIOCHE) out tAte (see
d tête snnall Brioches à Take very very small BRIOCHE) scoop out garnishes any of
ofthe fill with any ofthe three-quarters of the dough and fill the garnishes
similar preparations. usually served with tartlets and other similar preparations.
as same vunrs-Prepare cHolrx VERTS Cabbagg green. CHOUX Cabbage, - Prepare in the
sa me way as Red cabbage, below. mediumwash a a mediumTrim and and wash RoucE cnoux
ROUGE Cabbage, red. CHOUX - Trim put them into into sized cabbage. Cut it into very
fine small strips, put pint, li lt cups) boiling boiling vinegar. dl. (t pint, 3
dl. a dish and and pour over 3 a with oil, oil, and se season for 5 Drain and 5
hours. Drain well and and leave for Mix weil as on with and pepper. salt and it is
is steeped steeped in in the be blanched blanched before it Red cabbage can can be
Red vinegar. very a very pieces of make a garnished pieces of toast toast make
Small garnished Canapes - Small Canapés ways. in two ways. be served served in They
can can be hors-d'euvre. They attractive hors-d'œuvre. attractive and cut cut the
the sandwich loaf and offa crusts off Cut the crusts First method. method. Cut
First a sandwich pieces of of into small small pieces the slices slices into Cut
the slices. Cut thin slices. breadinto bread into thin without sides without on
both both sides these on Toast these forms. Toast and forms. shapes and various
various shapes browning. over over browning. plain or plain a compound compound or
one side side with with a on one spread on When cool, cool, spread When to the the
preparation, according according to suitable preparation, other suitable or any any
other butter, butter, or Instructions accordingly. Instructions Garnish
accordingly. desired. Garnish of canapé canapi desired. kind kind of paper on a a
paper Arrange on found below. below. Arrange be found can be for decorating
decorating can for plate or dish. or dish. doyley, napkin, napkin, plate doyley,
loaf of a a sandwich sandwich loaf large slices slices of Toast large method. Toast
Second method. Second any or any with butter butter or spread with cool spread When
sides. Wh on both both sides. lightly on Iightly en cool canapis of of cut into
into canapés and cut preparation. Garnish, Garnish, and suitable preparation. other
suitable other Decorate. various shapes. shapes. Decorate. various kind are are to
to be be served, served, the same same kind great many of the muny canapés canapis
of If aa great If The toast toast can can also also be be is recommended.
recommended. The the second second method method is the brioche unsweetened brioche
or with with ordinary ordinary unsweetened of black black bread bread or made of
made (baked in possible). tin if if possible). in aa rectangular rectangular tin
(baked may be be listed below, below, canapés canapis may recipes listed to the the
recipes In addition addition to ln fish, of meat, meat, fish, kinds of Different
kinds prepared in ways. Different many ways. in many prepared into or made made
into into thin thin slices slices or cut into etc., cut truffies, etc., vegetables,
truffles, vegetables, garnishes. used as as garnishes. can be be used salpicons,
can salpicons, gherkins, eggs, capers, capers, gherkins, hard-boiled eggs, with
hard-boiled Decorate canapés canapis with Decorate parsley, mushrooms, parsley,
trufles, mushrooms, cucumber, truffies, olives, beetroot, beetroot, cucumber,
olives,· chervil, tarragon, tarragon, etc. etc. chervil,

Beef, BOEUF rr-rrraf FUMÉ - Cut Cut the the meat meat into into very very thin thin
Beef, moked. smoked. BoELJF

: radishes, Preparation Preparation of of various various canapEs canapés;

radishes, tomato€s. tomatoes, cucumber cucumber

rl

Archovy Anchovy canapescanapés - See See ANCHOVY. AN CHOVY. Aurora Aurora canap6s.
canapés. clNlpfs CANAPÉS A À L'AunoRE L'AURORE - Slice Slice a a round round
ununsweetened sweetened brioche brioche loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread
spread with with yellow yellow butter. butter. smoked salmon, Garnish Garnish with
with a a thin thin slice slice of of smoked salmon, put put a a round round of of
beetroot beetroot in in the the middle, middle, sprinkle sprinkle with with minced
minced yolk yolk of of hardhardsurround with boiled boiled egg, egg, and and
surround with a a border border of of yellow yellow butter. butter. sandwich loaf,
Canapds Canapés i à la la bayonnaise bayonnaise - Slice Slice a a sandwich loaf,
toast, toast, and and slices of spread with spread with parsley parsley butter.
butter. Garnish Garnish with with very very thin thin slices of Bayonne Bayonne
ham. ham. and loaf, toast, Slice a sandwich loaf, Canap6s i - Slice Canapés à la la
bordelaise bordelaise a sandwich toast, and cooked of cooked salpicon of witha
Garnish with butter. Garnish with Shallot Shallot butter. spread with spread a
salpicon of Paprika a border and surround surround with and lean lean ham, cdpes
and cèpes ha m, and with a border of Paprika (see BUTTER, butters). Compound
butters). butter (see butter BUTTER, Compound a sandsandSlice a AU CAVIAR cAvIAR
clttlpfs AU caviare. CANAPÉS with caviare. Canap6s witb - Slice Canapés slices the
slices brioche; the unsweetened brioche; or unsweetened loaf, brown brown loaf wich
Joaf, wich loaf or (s@ butter (see Caviare butter wfth Caviare spread with and
spread Toast, and round. Toast, should be be round. should Surround butter.
Surround fresh butter. or with fresh butters) orwith Compound butters) BUTTER,
Compound BUTTER, Garnish the butter. Garnish of caviare caviare butter. high border
border of fairly high a fairly with a with the pinch of of chives. chives. a pinch
with a Sprinkle with fresh caviare. caviare. Sprinkle with fresh centre with centre
pressed caviare, but caviare, but with pressed made with be made can also also be
These canapés canapis can These so delicate. delicate. not be be so they will will
not they the Follow the fcnrvtssEs - Follow eux ÉCREVISSES c,c,NA,pts AUX canap6s.
CANAPÉS Crayfish canapés. Crayfish butter (see below), Crayfish butter using
Crayfish below), using canapis (see for Shrimp recipe for Shrimp canapés recipe
instead tails instead crayfish tails and crayfish (see BUTTER, butters) and
Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound (see shrimps. of shrimps. of rectangular loaf of
of rectangular a dark dark rye Slice a la danoise danoise I la Canap6s à rye loaf -
Slice Canapés (see butter (see Horseradish butter with Horseradish spread with and
spread toast, and shape, toast, shape, strips garnish thin with and butters),
Compound BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butters), and garnish with thin strips Separate
of herring. Separate fillets ofherring. with fillets alternating with salmon
alternating of smoked salmon ofsmoked a with a surround with and surround caviare,
and little fresh fresh caviare, a little fish by by a of fish the strips strips of
the chives. of chopped chopped chives. border of border a sandwich sandwich Slice a
ARLEQUIN -- Slice c.lNlp6s ARLEQUTN canap€s. CANAPÉS Harlequin canapés. Harlequin
Garnish butter. Garnish compound butter. a compound with a spread with and spread
loaf, toast, toast, and loaf, smoked eggs, smoked of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs,
and whites whites of yolks and with chopped chopped yolks with thin with aa thin
parsley, etc. Surround with etc. Surround trufles, parsley, ham, truffies, tongue,
ham, tongue, butter. of compound compound butter. border of border of different
different mixture of garnished with a mixtur~ with a be garnished can be These
canapés canap6s can These left-overs the left-overs prepared last, last, so so the
garnish is is prepared preparations. The The garnish preparations. dish. this dish.
up for for this used up be used can be ofspecial canap6s can of special canapés
recipe the recipe Use the HARENGs -- Use Atrx HARENGS ceNrtpfs AUX Herring canapés.
canapes. CANAPÉS Herring Herring (see ANCHOVY), substituting Herring ANCHOVY),
substituting canapis (see for Anchovy Anchovy canapés for of fillets of and fillets
butters) and (see BUTTER, Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound butter (see butter for
the the anchovy. anchovy. herring for herring kinds of of garnished different kinds
with different be garni can be canapis can These canapés These shed with herrings.
herrings. and toast, and loat toast, sandwich loaf, Slice aasandwich la hollandaise
hollandaise -- Slice I la Canapes à Canapés fillets with fillets Garnish with roes.
Garnish herring raes. pur6e of soft herring of soft spread with with aa purée
spread

461
HORS.D(EUVRE HORS-DŒUVRE

of herring arranged in criss-cross pattern. pattern.Fill Filleach each of herring

arranged in aacriss-cross opening with chopped parsley. opening with chopped
parsley. CanapesLaguipilre- I ozenge-shapd, canapis of ordinary Canapés Laguipière
- Lozenge-shaped canapés of ordinary unsweetened brioche bread, toasted, and spread
witir unsweetened bread, toasted, and spread with Trffie butter brioche (see
BUTTER, Compound butteri). Garnish Truffle butter (see BUITER, Compound butters).
Gamish with slices of breast ofchicken, and decorate the points of the with slices
of breast of chicken, and decorate the poin ts of the lozenges with chopped pickled
or smoked iongue and lozenges with chopped pickled or smoked tongue and chopped
trufres. Surround with a border of yellow butter. chopped truffles. Surround with a
border of yellow butter. Canap€sA la livonienne- Slice a rectangulai rye loaf,
toast, Canapés à la livonieone - Slice a rectangular rye loaf, toast, and spread
tith Horseradish butter (see BUTTER, Comand spread with Horseradish butter (see
BUTTER, Compound butters). Garnish with slivers of herring fiIlets alternatpound
butters). Garnish with slivers of herring fiUets alternating with thin ribbons of
tart apples. Brush fightly with oil and ing with thin ribbons of tart apples. Brush
lightly with oil and surround with a border of chopped chives. surround with a
border of chopped chives.

Canat's decorated with hard-boiled eggs and green beans Canapés decorated wilh
hard·boiled eggs and green beans

L$stcr canapes. caNepss AU HoMARD - Follow the recipe canapés. CANAPÉS AU HOMARD -
Follow the recipe ^ Lobster for Shrimp canapis (see below), substitutin g Lobster
butier for Shrimp canapés (see below), substituting Lobster butter (see BUTTER,
Compound butters) and pieces of lobster. (see BUITER, Compound butters) and pieces
of lobster. Monselet canapes. c.lnepfs MoNsELET - Trim slices of Monselet canapés.
CANAPÉS MONSELET - Trim slices of sandwich loaf into oval shapes, toast, and spread
with sandwich loaf into oval shapes, toast, and spread with yellow butter. Garnish
with a border of small round slices of yeUow butter. Gamish with a border of small
round slices of breast of chicken, alternating with equally small rounds of breast
of chicken, alternating with equally small rounds of pickled or smoked pickled or
smoked tongue. tongue. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with a a salpicon
salpicon of of trufres and surround with a border of yellow butter. truBles and
surround with a border of yellow butter. Mont-Bry canap6s. c,tNApEs il,roNr-siv -
Slice unsweetened Mont-Bry canapés. CANAPÉS MONT-BRY - Slice unsweetened brioche,
toast, and spread with Herring butter (seeBUTTER, brioche, toast, and spread with
Herring butter (see BUITER, butters). .Compound Compound butters). Garnish Gamish
with with fillets fillets of of herring, herring, alternatalternating with evenly
cut strips of beetroot and gherkins. Surround ing with evenly cut strips of
beetroot and gherkins. Surround *itl u border with a border of ofchopped chopped
yolks yolks of ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Canap€s i la mosovite - Slice
a square blaik rye loaf, Canapés à la moscovite - Slice a square black rye loaf,
toast, and spread with Horseradish butter (see BUTTER, toast, and spread with
Horseradish butter (see BUITER, Compound butters). Surround with a border of butter
mixed Compound butters). Surround with a border of butter mixed with the coral of
spiny lobsters. Fill the centre with fresh with the coral of spiny lobsters. FiU
the centre with fresh caviare and decorate with shrimp tails. caviare and decorate
with shrimp tails. Canapes I la nantaise - Slice sandwich bread thin and trim
Canapés à la nantaise - Slice sandwich bread thin and trim the slices into long
oval shapes. Toast, and spread with the slices into long oval shapes. Toast, and
spread with Sgrdine butter (see BUTTER, Compound butteri). Garnish Sardine butter
(see BUTTER, Compound butters). Gamish with fillets of sardines in oil from which
all the bones and with fillets of sardines in oil from which aU the bones and skin
have been carefully removed, and garnish with sardine skin have been carefully
removed, and gamish with sardine butter in such avray as to make tbe canapis look
like fish. butter in such a way as to make the canapés look like fish. Canapds
Ninon - Trim slices of sandwich bread into oval Canapés Ninon - Trirn slices of
sandwich bread into oval shapes, toast" and spread with Printanier butter (see
shapes, toast, and spread with Printanier butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters).
Garnish with a border of BUITER, Compound butters). Garnish with a border of small
thin rounds of breast of chicken, alternating with smaU thin rounds of breast of
chicken, alternating with rounds of truffes. Fill the centre with lean ham cut into
very rounds of truffies. Fill the centre with lean ham cut into very small dice.
small dice.
462 462

parisienneCanapdsàtla la Slicea a rectangularsandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, Canapés

parisienne - Slice rectangular t_oast,and andspread spreadwith withbutter
buttermixed mixedwith pounddchervil. withpounded chervil. toast, Garnishwith
withsmall, small,thin thinslices slicesof ofbreast breastof olchic chicken coated
ken coated Garnish gelatine-strengthenedmayonnaise withgelatine-strengthened
mayonnaiseand anddecorated decoratedwith with with trurflesand andtarragon tarragon
leaves. leaves.Surround Surround with withaaborder borderof truffies of jelly.
chopped jelly. chopped Canapds àt la printanibre - - Trim laprintanière Trimslices
slicesof ofsandwich sandwich loaf Canapés loaf intorounds, rounds, toast, toast,and
andspread spreadwith with Montpellier Montpellierbutter (see butter (see into
BUTTER, Compound Compoundbutters). butters).Garnish Garnishwith withleaves
leavesofwaterof waierBUTTER, cress, altemating alternating with with thin thinround
round slices slicesof ofcarrots carrots cooked cookedin cress, in clear stock.
stock.Spoon Spoon over over aathin jelly and thinlayer layslof of meat meat jelly
clear and sursurroundwith border of ofchopped choppedyolks yolksof ofhard-boiled
hard-boiled eggs. eggs. round with aaborder Canapdsà i la la reine reine-- Trim
Trim slices slices of of unsweetened unsweetened brioche bii,oche Canapés into
rounds, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with Truffle Trufie butter (see
butter (see into rounds, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters).Garnish
Garnish with with aa salpicon salpicon of BUTTER, of breast of of chicken, chicken,
decorate decorate with with lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped slices ilices of of
breast truffie, and and surround surround with with a a border border of yellow
butter. of yellow butter. truffie, Russian salad salad canapés. canap6s. CANAPÉS
canepfs À A LA re RUSSE nusse -- Slice Russian Slice aa sandwich loaf, loaf, toast,
toast, and and spread spread with with butter butter aux aux fines sandwich fines
herbes. Surround Surround with with aa border border of yellow butter, of yellow
butter, fi.!l fili the herbes. the centre with Rzssl'an (se salad SALAD) decorate
decorate with centre with Russian salad (see SALAD) with gsnl trufres, and cover
cover with with a a thin fhin coat of ofjelly. jelly. truffles, and Shrimpcanap€s.
cl,N,uEsAUx cREvETTEsSlice a a rounded rounded Shrimp canapés. CANAPÉS AUX
CREVEITES - Slice sandwich loaf loaf or or cut cut out out rounds rounds from from
square square slices. slices. Toast, Toast, sandwich and spread spread with with
Shrimp Shrimp butter (see BUITER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compounil and
butters). Garnish Garnish with with shrimps shrimps arranged arranged in in a a
rosette. rosette. SurSurbutters). round with with a a border border of of shrimp
shrimp butter butter or or with with chopped chopped round parsley. parsley. Smoked
eel eel canapés. canapds. CANAPÉS cANApEs À A L'ANGUILLE L'ANGUTLLE FUMÉE FuMfE -*
Slice Smoked Slice a a round sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, and and spread
spread with with Mustard butter butter round or with with Horseradish Horseradish
butter (se BUITER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound or butters). Garnish
Garnish with with thin thin slices slices of of smoked smoked eel, eel, and and
surbutters). round with with hard-boiled hard-boiled egg yolks and egg yolks
chives, chopped and chives, round separately. separa tely. Canapds witb with spiny
spiny lobster. CANAPÉS ceNlp6s DE LANGOUSTE LANcousrs Canapés - Follow the fot
Shrimp canapés, canapis, using Spl'zy lobster lobster butter using Spiny low the
recipe recipe for (see BUTTER, Compound butters) and slices slices of of spiny (see
BUITER, Compound butters) and lobster or spiny lobster cut into dice. lobster or
spiny lobster Canapes Canapés with with pickled pickled tongue. tongue. clNep6s
CANAPÉS A À r'Eclnt,nre L'ÉCARLA TE _ - Slice a a sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf,
toast, toast, and spread with paprika Paprika butter butter (see (see BUTTER,
BUITER, Compound Compound butters). Garnish with thin slicej slices of pickled
pickled or or smoked smoked tongue tongue or or with with tongue tongue cut cut
into very small dice. of paprika paprika butter. butter. dice. Surround Surround
with with a border of Canap6s Canapés I à la la Veron Veron - Slice Slice adquare
a.....quare black black rye loaf, toast, and Horseradish hutter butter (see BUTTER,
BUITER, ComComand spread spread with with Horseradish pound pound butters).
butters). Garnish Garnish with with thin thin slices slices of of Bayonne Bayonne
ham ham and and surround of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg yolks yolks and and
parsley parsley surround with with a a border border of chopped chopped up up in in
equal equal proportions. proportions. Watelrress Watercress canapds. canapés.
caNlpfs CANAPÉS AU AU cREssoN CRESSON - Slice Slice a a sandsandwich wich loaf,
loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with a a butter butter made made
like like Tarragon Tarragon butter (see BUTTER, BUITER, Compound Compound butters),
butters), substituting substituting butter (see watercress watercress leaves leaves
for for the the tarragon. tarragon. Garnish Garnish with with leaves leaves ol of
blanched blanched watercress watercress and and surround surround with with a a
border border of ofchopped chopped hard hard boiled boiled eggs. eggs. Canapds
Canapés with witb York York ham. bam. cnNApfs CANAPÉS A À re LA yoRKArs YORKAISE -
Slice Slice a a sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread
with with Chivry Chivry butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUITER, Compound Compound
butters). butters). Garnish Gamish with with thin thin slices slices of of York
York ham, ham, and and surround surround with withaaborder borderof ofchopped
chopped parsley. parsley. Carolines Carolines-- Small Small6clairs éclairsmade
madeof ofunsweetenA unsweetened Chou Choupaste paste (see (seeDOUGH),
DOUGH),garnished garni shedto totaste tastewith withdifferent
differentprepa.atio.rs preparations y9h-a! such as mousses mousses or or pur6es
purées made made of ofshrimps, shrimps, prawns, prawns, craycrayfish, fish,
lobster, lobster, spilV spiny lobster,foie lobster, foie gras, gras, salmon,iole,
salmon, sole, poultry, poultry, game, are coated coated with with a a Chaud-froid
Chaud-froidsauie sauce game, etc. etc. The The 6clairs éclairs are (see (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) in in keeping keeping with with the the filling, fiUing, and and glazed
glazed with with jelly. jelly.Arrange Arrangethem themon onaapaper paperdoyley.
doyley. Caroline Caroline6clairs éclairs can can also alsobe befilled filled with
withsalpicons salpiconsblended blended with with chaud-froid chaud-froidsauce,
sauce, or or with with mayonnaise mayonnaise or orjelly. jelly. They They can
canalso alsobe begarnished garnishedwith withfresh freshcaviare. caviare.
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Caviare - The The word word 'caviare' 'caviare' generally generally indicates
indicates fresh fresb Caviare caviare, i.e. i.e. the the roe roe of of one one of
of the the members members of of the the sturgeon caviare, family. family. In
Russia, Russia, the the roe roe of other fish fish such as as soudac, soudac,
trout, trout, In are prepared salmon, perch, perch, pike pike and sigui are
prepared in the same sa me way. salmon, These inferior inferior products products
cannot cannat be be sold in in France as caviare. caviare. These Salted and and
pressed pressed caviares are also on the market, but Salted their flavour flavour
is is not not as as good as that that ofthe of the real real caviare. their Fresh
caviare caviare is is served served in in its its original container container
surrounded surrounded Fresh by crushed ice, ice, or in special special containers
containers also surrounded surrounded by by ice. Caviare Caviare should should be
be delicately delicately handled. handled. It is is usually ice. with thin thin
slices slices of of rye rye bread bread lightly lightly buttered, buttered, or with
a served with Russian pancake pancake called blini blini (q.v.). Russian Lemon and
and chopped chives are are provided when when serving Lemon caviare for each each
diner diner to help help himself. caviare Caviare barquettes or tartlets.
BARQUETTES, TARTELETTES Garnish AU cAvIAR CAVIAR - Use very small barquettes
barquettes or tartlets. Garnish AU fresh caviare. Serve on a paper paper doyley.
with fresh cAVIAR Small brioches brioches with witb crviere. caviare. PETITES
PETITES BRIocIrEs BRIOCHES AU CAVIAR Smdl Brioches d à tête BRIOCHE) made from tdte
(see BRIOCHE) small Brioches Use very small and fiU fill with with unsweetened
dough. dough. Hollow out the brioches and unsweetened fresh caviare. Serve on a
paper doyley. quickly, drain, CÉLERI-RAVE Celeriac. cft rnt-nlve-- Cut into dice,
cook quickly, Celerirc. season with oil and vinegar, mayonnaise or mustard. season
Celery à CÉLERI A À LA rl GRECQUE cnrcQur -- Trim and wash grecEre. cELBl I la
grecque. in the the the celery, cut the the hearts into quarters and and prepare in
the grec(W (see above). same Artichokes à d la grecque as Artichokes same way as
preserved cherries. BIGARcherries. BIGARcalled preserved vinegar, also caJJed
Cherries in vinegar, REAUX cherries. firm white heart cherries. vINAIcRE REAttx AU
VINAIGRE - Choose very finn Cut their stalks by two-thirds. jar. Sprinkle with very
very small small Put them in an an earthenware earthenware jar. pieces over boiling
boiling vinegar pieces of leaf. Pour Pour over bay leaf. of thyme thyme and and bay
seasoned a lid lid and and cloves. Coyer Cover the jug with a seasoned with salt,
and 2 cloyes. keep cool. Leave to infuse for for 15 15 days. Serve the with dish.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. the cherries
cherries in the marinade. Cherries as preserved in served separately separately as
in vinegar vinegar are are served Cherries preserved hors-d'œuvre Id or hot dishes.
hot meat dishes. hors-d'euvre or with co cold Crayfish. tails seasoned seasoned
with with Diced crayfish crayfish tails Coynsn. ÉCREVISSES fcnBvrssns -- Diced oil,
vinegar, salt and pepper, or or with a a mayonnaise. mayonnaise. put them
CQcumbers. them fresh cucumbers, cucumbers, put Dice fresh coNcQMBREs- Dice
Cucumbers. CONCQMBRESin salt, with salt, Serve seasoned seasoned with with salt.
salt. Serve sprinkle with in a a dish dish and and sprinkle pepper, pepper, vinegar
and and oil. oil. Cucumber re GRECQUE Cut grecEre. CONCOMBRES A LA cREcQUE -- Cut
coNcoMBREs À la grecque. I la Cucumber à the proceed as la picces and for
Artichokes Artichokes à as for and proceed d la into pieces the çucumber cucumber
into grecque (see above) grec(W (see for 10 l0 or or 12 12 minutes. minutes. cook
only only for but cook above) but Cucumber the cucuPeel the sALADE - Peel EN SALADE
salad. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs EN Chcumber salado cumbers thin slices. slices. into
very very thin lengthwise into them lengthwise cumbers and and cut cut them Put
leave them them salt and and leave with fine fine salt sprinkle with them on a
cloth, cloth, sprinkle Put them on a to season Drain, dry, dry, and and season for
30 30 minutes. minutes. Drain, to render liquor for render their their liquor with
pepper, parsley parsley and chervil. and chopped chopped chervil. vinegar, pepper,
with oil, oil, vinegar, Fresh be added. added. Fresh cream cream may may be
Cucumber FARcIS salad. CONCOMBRES coNcouBRss FARCIS witr vegetable vegeteble salado
sfufrd with Clrcumber stufJed pntNrlNdnn - Cut À pieces and and into pieces large
cucumber cucumber into Cut aa large A LA le PRINTANIÈRE blanch give to give out to
hollow out and hollow dry, and Drain, dry, in salted water. Drain, blanch in salted
water. them salad: vegetable salad: Fill with with aa vegetable of cassolettes.
cassolettes. Fill the shape them the shape of carrots, peas blended with blended
with and peas French beans, beans, and diced French carrots, turnips, turnips,
diced thick vinegar. with oil and vinegar. oil and thick mayonnaise. mayonnaise.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with Éc1airs éclairs with pur6e, coat game purée, coat with aa
game Stuffeclairs la Karo1y Karoly -- Stuff Ectain àI la with glaze over (se SAUCE)
over and glaze SAUCE) and sauce (see with a a brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid
sauce with jelly. with jelly. EeJ. and general method of cleaning cleaning and
method of For the the general lNcull-r.s -- For Eel. ANGUILLE cooking, as hot hot
be served servedas which can can be Various dishes dishes which cooking, see see
EEL. EEL. Various or vert, are also are also particularly Eels Eels au ail vert, or
cold cold hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, particularly described EEL. described in in
the the section section EEL. Commachio kindof of This kind DECOMMACHIO lNcutrr,E DE
coMMAcHIo - - This Commachio eel. eel. ANGUILLE salted Servein in used as as hors-
d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Serve is only only used and smoked eel is salted and smoked
eel an dish. an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'ervre dish.

with a a court-bouillon court'bouillon Eel d à I'italienne l'italienne (se (see

below). below). Moisten Moisten with the terrine with with the a terrine Put into
seasoned with with curry curry powder. powder. Put into a it is is before it cooled
before completely cooled liquid. liquid. This This dish dish must must be be
completely
served. thin slices slices of of quartered pimentos and thin eels with Garnish eels
with quartered pimentos and salt. Sprinkle Sprinkle with salt. raw tomatoes which
have been been sprinkled with has been been eel has in which which the the eel
liquor in the liquor dish with the the whole who le dish with the cooked. an eel
eel Cut an r'nlttsNr.re -- Cut A L'ITALIENNE ANcuILLE À ltitalienne. ANGUILLE Eel à
i l'italienne. Ee1 (2-inch) pieces. pieces. (li lb.) into g. (li into 5-cm. S-crn.
(2-inch) weighing 750 g. leaves, on on small small bay leaves, pieces, separated by
bay separated by Thread the the pieces, Thread season dish, season in an an oiled
dish, the skewers in all the wooden skewers. Put ail in the the oyen. oven. minutes
in for 12 12 minutes with oil. oil. Cook Cook for and sprinkle sprinkle with and
the skewers. pieces of skewers. from the of eel eel from the pieces Drain and and
rem remove Drain ove the a terrine. terrine. Arrange them in a Arrange (6 tableI
dl. dl. (6 tableand 1 pint, scant vinegar and scant cup) cup) vinegar dl. (t Put 2
2 dl. $ pint, has eel has the eel in which the dish in cup) water into the dish
scant + cup) spoons, scant! pinch of of and a a pinch 4 cloyes cloves and sugar, 4
a lump of sugar, been cooked. Add a pour over the over the and pour for 5 5
minutes, and this court-bouillon for salt. Boil this salt. place, and for leave for
and leave cool place, into a a very cool the terrine, terrine,put Cover the eel.
Coyer put into serving. days before serving. 2 or 3 days jelly with the the jelly
and coyer cover with dish and hors-d'euvre dish on an an hors-d'œuvre Arrange on
Arrange terrine. inthe formed in which has fonned the terrine. EN vIN DE DE
CHABLIS, cHABLIS, EN AU VIN lucutrI,E AU eel in in Chablis. Chablis. ANGUILLE
Jellied eel Jellied pieces and in concentrated concentrated cook in and cook small
eels eels into pieces cnrEs -- Cut Cut small GELÉE put pieces and and put the
pieces prepared with Drain the with Chablis. Chablis. Drain stock prepared fish
stock fish has the eel eel has liquid in in which which the the liquid Clarify the
a smaU small terrine. terrine. Clarify into a into ice. pour over on ice. Cool on
the dish. dish. Cool over the cooked and and pour been cooked vIN AU VIN DTlnINEg
AU lrqculrr-e MARINÉE in red red wine. wine. ANGUILLE Eel marlnated marinated in
Ee1 in white white marinated in for Eel Eel marinated as described described for
RoucE -- Proceed Proceed as ROUGE court-bouillon. (see below), but for the the
court-bouillon. red wine wine for use red but use wine (see wine vINAIcRE AU
VINAIGREMenrNEE AU ANGUILLE MARINÉE vinegar. ANGUILLE in vinegar. Ee1 Eel marlnated
marinated in (see wine (see in white white wine Eel marinated marinated in for Eel
Proceed described for as described Proceed as courtfor the the courtwine for of
white white wine instead of vinegar instead use vinegar below) but use below) but
bouillon. bouillon. AU VIN vIN r,rRrNEu AU lNcunrn MARINÉE wine. ANGUILLE in white
white wine. Ee1 narinated in Eel marinated in pieces. Cook onions in minced onions
Cook minced into pieces. eel into the eel BLANc -- Cut Cut the BLANC place and
place pan with with the the onion onion and Line a a shallow shallow pan soft. Line
butter until until soft. butter COURTXll(see with Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII
Cover with eel on on them. them. Coyer the eel the (see COURTgarni. Cook for 20 20
Cook for large bouquet bouquet garni. Add a a large BOUILLON). BOUILLON). Add
liquor. in its its liquor. the eel eel in and cool cool the minutes minutes and
with Proceed witb A L'ORIENTALE L'oRrcNtAt-B -- Proceed ANcuILLE À Eel Eel à i
l'orienta1e. I'oricntale. ANGUILLE (see below). below). I'orientale (see pieces, as
Red mullet mullet à d l'orientale for Red asfor into pieces, eel, eel, cut cut into

for as for L'rNoInNNE Eel - Proceed Ee1 à I'indienne. J'indienne. ANcuTLLE ANGUILLE
A À L'INDIENNE Proceed as

It

stuffed Preparing cucumber to stuffed be tobe sectionsof ofcucumber

Preparingsections with salad vegetable salad withvegetable

463 463
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
(Kiel). ANGUILLE Smoked eel eel(Kiel). ANGTJTLLE fUMÉE rurram DE DE KIEL KIEL - -
Cut Cut the theeel eel Smoked into fillets fillets or very thin orvery thin slices.
slices. Garnish Garnish with parsleyand with fresh fresh parsley and into
halfslices slicesof of lemon lemoneut cut with with aafluted fluted cutter. cutter.
half Smoked eel edcanapés canapes -- See See Canapés Canapds above. above. Smoked
Eel in in verjuice. ANGUTLLE AU veriuice. ANGUILLE AU VERJUS vERJUs - - Cut pieces.
Cut the the eel eelin in pieces. Eel Cook chopped chopped onions gently in
onionsgently in butter. butter. Line Line the the bottom bottom of of aa Cook pan
with flat pan with the the onions place the onions and and place pieces of the
pieces of eel eel on on top. top. fiat Season. Add garni. Moisten Add aa bouquet
bouquet garni. Moisten with with verjuice verjuice and and Season. white wine wine
in in equal quantities. Finish equal quantities. Finish the the dish dish as asfor
for Eel Eel white marinated in (see above). in white white wine wine (see above).
marina/ed Eggs, bard-boiled. hard-boiled. OEUFS orurs DURS DURs -- Cut Cut into
into dice, dice, or or slice. slice. Eggs, Season with with oil, oil, vinegar,
vinegar, salt pepper or salt and and pepper or with with mayonmayonSeason naise.
naise. Eggs, stulfed. stufred. OEUFS oEUFs FARCIS FARcrs -- Hard-boil Hard-boil the
the eggs. eggs. Cut into Cut into Eggs, halves. Take Take out yolks and out the the
yolks and mix mix these these with with whatever whatever halves. preparation is is
used used as as stuffing. stuffing. Another Another way way of of stuffing stuffing
eggs eggs preparation is to to eut cut a a little little off off at at both both
cnds ends so so that that they they can can stand. stand. is yolks out Carefully
take take the the yolks out without without brcaking breaking the the white. white.
Carefully Stuffthe eggs to to tllste. taste. Arrange Arrange them them standing
standing up looking up 100 like Stuff the eggs king like little barrels. barrels.
little Salads and, salpicons salpicons can can be be used used as as stuffings
stuffings for for eggs. eggs. Sa lads and Decorate the the halved halved eggs eggs
or or the the little little barrel-shaped barrel-shaped eggs, eggs, Decorate jelly
and glaze over over with with jelly and arrange arrange on on an an hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre dish dish or or glaze plate gamished garnished with on a a plate
parsley. with curly curly parsley. on Eg stuffing sfuffing à i la la moscovite.
moscovite. FARCE r,c,Rco D'OEUFS D'oEUFs À A LA r.c, MOSCOr{oscoEgg vIrE Pound 2 2
hard-boiled hard-boiled egg yolks. Add egg yolks. (3 Add 2 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 VITE .. Pound tablespoons) thick thick mayonnaise, mayonnaise, 1 I
tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped tablespoons) onions cooked
cooked in in oil oil until until tender, tender, and and 1 1 tablespoon tablespoon
chopped chopped onions parsley. Season with paprika and with salt salt and and
paprika and mix well. parsley. Season mix weil. pLUvrER, DE vANNEAU Plovers' or or
lapwings' lapwings' eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEUFs DE DE PLUVIER, Plovers' DE VANNEAUput
the Hard-boil the peel Iwo-thirds the eggs eggs and and peel two-thirds of of each
each one. one. Put the Hard-boil part of of the egg whieh which is is left left in
the shell shell on on a a bed bed ofwatereress, of watercress, part the egg in the
made like a a nes!. nest. The The merits of this hors-d'euvre lie lie merits of
this hors-d'œuvre made to to look look Iike mainly in the rarity oftheeggs of the
eggs and price. Lapwings' and their Lapwings' theu high high priee. mainly in the
rarity eggs appear appear on on the about Easter. Easter. eggs the market market in
in France France round round about Escablche of (Spani$ and of various fishes
(Spamsh and Provençal Provengal Escabèche various fishes cookery). cookery).
rscastcrs ESCABÈCHE DE DE ForssoNs POISSONS DwERs DIVERS - Wash Wash smelts,
smelts, mackerels, mackerels, whitings, whitings, red red mullets, mullets, etc.,
etc., and and dry dry in in a a cloth. cloth. Dip Dip in in flour fioul' and and
fry fry in in olive olive oil oil until until both both sides sides are are lightly
Iightly coloured. over them. coJoured. Pour Pour boiling boiling court-bouillon
court-bouillon over them. This This is is prepared prepared as as follows: follows:
Heat the oil in which Heat the oil in which the the fish fish were were fried fried
until untiJ it il begins begins to to smoke. dl. (scant ! pint, smoke. Add, Add,
for for 2+ 2~ dl. (seant} pint, general general cup) cup) oil, oil, 5 5 cloves Fry
for for cloyes unpeeled unpeeled garlic, garlic, and and a a sliced sliced onion
onion and and carrot. carrot. Fry a I dl. few minutes minutes and and add add l| li
dl. dl. $ (! pint, pint, 3 1cup) cup) vinegar, vinegar,1 dl. a few (3 tablespoons,
scant * cup) water, a sprig of thyme, half a (3 tablespoons, seant cup) watcr, a
sprig of thyme, half a bay Cook for for bay leaf, leaf, some sorne parsley,
parsley, 3 3 pimentos, pimentos, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Cook 10 to 12
minutes, pour over the fish, and leave to soak for 24 10 to 12 minutes, pour over
the fish, and leave to soak for 24 hours. hours. Serve Serve cold cold with with
the the marinade. marinade. Fanchonnettes FanchollIlettes - See See Patties,
Pallies, Fanchonnette Fanchonne//e patties, pallies, below. below. Fennd FellIlel
roots. roots. FENourL FENOUIL BULBEUx BULBEUX - Peel Peel and and wash wash the the
bulbous bulbous part part of of the the fennel, fennel, cut eut into into halves
halves or or quarters, quarters, and and serve serve with with Vinaigrette
Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Fennel '!iellIlel roots roots Ià
la la grecEre. grecque. FENotm FENOUlL suLsnrx llULBEUX A ÀLA LA GREceuE GRECQUECut
Cut the the bulbous bulbous roots roots into into halves ha Ives or or quarters
quarters and and proceed proceed as indicated for Artichokes d la grecque (see
above). as indicated for A rtichokes à la grecque (see above). Fig$ Figs, fresh.
fresh. Frcuts FIGUES rndcnrs FRAîCHES - Serve Serve as as they they are. are.
Arrange Arrange the the figs figs on on vine vine leaves leaves or, or, preferably,
preferably, on on small small fig fig leaves. leaves. Or Or roll roll the,m them in
in thin thin slices slices of ofParma Panna ham. ham. Frmhbeens. French bcans.
HARrcors HARICOTS vERTsVERTS - Cook Cook in in salt salt water, water, drain,
drain, cut cut into into dice, dice, season season with with oil oil and and
vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, pepper, or or with with mayonnaise.
mayonnaise. fbogst GRENOUILLES- For For the the general general preparation
preparation of of Frogs' legs. legs. cnrwourllEs dishes disheswith withfrogs frogs
legs legssee seeFROG. FROG. Frogst Frogs'legs legsiàla lagrecque.
grecque.cRENourlrss GRENOUlLLESA Àr.A, LAcREceus GRECQUE-....Cook Cook frogs'
frogs' legs legs rn in Court-bouillon Courl-bouillon I1(see (sec COURT-BOUILLON).
COURT-BOUILLON). Leave to cool in the cooking Leave to cool in the cookingstock.
stock. Garnish Gamishwith with rounds roundsof ofpeeled peeled lemon. lemon.
Frogs' legs parisienne. GRENOlJlLLES legs àt la laparisicllIIe. cRENor.rrLLEs À ALA
LA PARISIENNEIARTsTENNE Frogs' Cook frogs' frogs' legs legs in in white white wine
wine to to which whichaasqueeze squeeze of of lemon lemon Cook has been been added
addedand and which which has has becn been seasoned seasoned with with salt salt
and and has pepper. Drain Drain the the frogs' frogs'legs and dry dry them them in
inaacloth. cloth. Coyer pepper. legs and Cover (see SAUCE). with Mayonnaise
Mayonnaise III III (see SAUCE). with potato salado Serve on ondiced diced potato
salad. Gamish Garnish with with chopped chopped hardhardServe (yolk and boiled eggs
eggs (yolk parsley. and white white chopped chopped separa separately) and parsley.
boiled tel y) and prMENTs pimentos. GRENOUlLLES Frogs' legs legs with with
pimentas. cRENourLLEs AUX Ar..rx PIMENTS Frogs' Dolrx -- Cook Cook the the frogs'
frogs' legs legs a~ as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for DOUX
parisienne above. Frogs' legs legs à d la Ia parisienne above. Add Add finely
finely cut red and cut red and Frogs' green peppers juice to peppers and and
vinegar vinegar or or lemon lemon juice to the the cooking cooking green stock and
and d dress with a a trickle trickle of of oil. oil. Leave Leave to to cool. cool.
stock ress with yinaigrette. GRENOUILLES Frogs' legs legs à 19 vinaigrette. t la
cRENournrs À A LA LA VINAIvrNArFrogs' cRETTE -- Poach Poach the the frogs' frogs'
legs legs as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for GRETTE
Frogs' legs parisienne above. legs à d la Ia parisienne above. Frogs' Drain, season
season witb with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, pepper, pepper, salt salt and and
chopped chopped Drain, parsley. Sprinkle Sprinkle sorne some of of the the boiled-
down boiled-down cooking cooking stock stock parsley. over the the dish. dish. over
Gherkins. CORNICHONS coRNrcHoNs -- Gherkins Gherkins in in vinegar vinegar are
Gherkins. are served served cut into into dice. dice. eut Gooce, smoked. snoked.
OIE Fr.rMfE -- Cut orn FUMÉE Cut the the breast breast into very very thin thin
Goose, slices. Serve parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with slices. Ham
(Bayonne, Pomq Westphalia, Westphaliq Ardennes, Ardenneq Toulouse). Tanlouse).
@ayonne, Panna, JAMBoNS into very thin sliees slices and arrange arrange JAMBONS -
Cut the raw ham iuto in slices slices or rolled into cornets. cornets. Garnish with
fresh parsley. in Herrings. HARENGS HARENcs Cut desalted desalted smoked smoked
herrings into Herrings. - Cut small dice. dice. Season Season with with an an oil
and and vinegar dressing or with with mayonnaise. Add Add hard·boiled hard-boiled
eggs eggs eut cut into into dice dice and and mayonnaise. sprinkled with chives or
chopped onions. Fillets of salted herrlngs. herrings FILETS FTLETs DE HARENGS
HARENcs SALÉS slr,ns Fillet FilJets - fillet 6 salted herrings, skin them and free
them them from salt by soaking in milk and water. Drain, dry in a cloth and arrange
arrange in a terrine. Put of blanched onions on them and add terrine. Put rounds
rounds of onions on them and thyme, leaf and and cloyes. cloves. Pour 2 dl. dl. ($
pint, seant scant cup) thyme, bay bay Icaf vinegar vinegar over and marinate
marinate them in this mixture mixture for 5 hours. Cover with oil and keep in a
cool cool place. Garnish with capers, place. Gamish gherkins gherkins and lemon.
These These fillets fillets can also also be be prepared in a court-bouillon court-
bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), or or dressed dressed with with a a mayonnaise, or used
used as as a a garnish garnish for canapis canapés if if thoroughly thoroughly
dried on a cloth. Fillets Fillets of of smoked smoked herring. herring. FTLETs
FILETS DE DE HARENcs HARENGS sAuRs SA URS Fillet fillet smoked herrings, herrings,
skin them, them, and and soak soak in milk milk and water. pvt water. Drain, Drain,
dry dry in in a a cloth, cIo th. arrange arrange in in a a terrine, terrine, put
blanched on ions on them, them, sprinkle sprinkJe with thyme, thyme, blanched
rounds rounds of onions add add a a bayleaf bayleaf and and some sorne cloves,
cloyes, and and cover cover with with oil. oil. Keep Keep cool. cool. Garnish
Garnish with with hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, chopped choppe<! parsley,
parsley, and rounds of fluted f1uted lemon lemon slices. slices. rounds of Filfeis
of smoked herring herring prepared prepared in in this this way way can can be be
Fil(e'ts of dressed dressed with with mayonnaise, mayonnaise, or or used used as
garnish garnisb for canapis. canapés. The The soft soft and and hard hard roes roes
are are steeped steeped in in oil oil and and served served with with the the
fillets. fillets. Fresh Fresh herringg herrings, marinated. marinated. HARENGS
HARENGS FRArs FRAIS MARTNFS MARINÉS Divide Divide 6 6 herrings herrings with with
soft soft roes roes into into pieces. pieces. Arrange Arrange in in a a buttered
buttered or or oiled oiled pan. pan. Make Make Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII
XII (see (see COURT-BOUILLON), COURT-BOUILLON), pour pourover over the the herrings
herrings and and bring bring to to the theboil. boil. Cover, Co ver, and and cook
cook for for l0 10 to to 12 12 minutes. minutes. Put Put into into a a terrire
terrine with with the the cooking cooking stock. stock. Leave Leave to to cool cool
before before serving. serving. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with some sorne of of the
the stock, stock, decorate decorate with with the the vegetables vegetables cooked
cooked in in the the courtcour/bouillon bouillon and and thin thin rounds rounds of
oflemon. lemon. Herrings Herrings ià la la livonienne. livonienne. HARENcs HARENGS
A À r",c, LA rrvoNrENNE LlVONIENNE Choose Choose large large smoked smoked
herrings. herrings. Fillet, Fillet, skin skin and and trim trim them. them. Keep
Keep the the heads heads and and tails. tails. Cut Cut the the fillets fillets into
into dice dice and and add add an an equal equal quantity quantity of ofcooked
cooked potatoes potatoes and and diced diced tart tart apples. apples. Season
Season with with oil, oil, vinegar vinegar and and pepper, pepper, and and add add
chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon tarragon and and
fennel. fennel. Mix Mixwell. weil. Arrange inthe theshape shapeof ofherrings
herringsand andcomplete completeby by Arrangeon onaadish dishin adding addingthe
the heads heads and and tails. tails.

(*

464 464
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

#1
ru

( RobertCarrier) Carrier\ Hors-d'œuvre Hors-d'ceuwe (Robert

Herrings Cut PoRTUcAISE -- eut A LA rn PORTUGAISE portugaise. HARENGS n$sNcs À la

portugaise. Herrings à i la herrings pint, scant cup) scantcup) in 2 2dl. dl. (t
pieces and and cook cook in large pieces herrings into into large $ pint, Tomato
(see FONDUE). FONDUE). T omat o fondue fondue (see Serve as above. above. Serve as
Smoked I LA n RUSSE nussp - Euufs À HARENGS FUMÉS russe. HARENGS la russe. herring
ài la Smoked berring Soak skin, tea,sIOn, coldstrained strainedtea, milk or orcold
fillets in inmilk herring fillets smoked herring Soak smoked and giving dish,
giving inaadish, Arrange in thin slices. slices. Arrange into thin crosswise into
and cut cutcrosswise them tablespoons withseveral several tablespoons Seasonwith
shape. Season original shape. them their their original Vinaigrette tarragon,
(seeSAUCE) chervil,tarragon, to which whichchervil, SAUCE) to Vinaigrette sauce
sauce(see fennel to33 Add22to added.Add have been beenadded. shallots have
andchopped chopped shallots fennel and tablespoons dressing. tothe thedressing.
cream to sourcream tablespoonssour Kilkis Anchovies Seeunder under Anchovies
anchovies - - See or Norwegian Norwegianancbovies Kilkis or above. above. Leeks the
Usethe ALA le GRECQUE cnncQur- - Use grecque.POIREAUX PoIREALTXÀ lagrecque. Leeks
ài la white (3 pieces 7lcm. cm.(3 intopieces leeks.Cut Cutinto partof tender leeks.
of large large tender white part inches) Artichokesàd forArtichokes indicated for
cookas asindicated andcook long. Blanch Blanchand inches) long. la (seeabove).
grecque(see above). lagrecque Lobster, HoMARD, shellfish. HOMARD, othershellfish.
lobster and andother Lobster, spiny spinylobster LANGOUSTE, and withoil oiland
seasonwith intodice, dice,season Cutinto LANGousrE, CRUSTACÉS cnusucfs- -Cut
vinegar, pepper,or mayonnaise. orwith withmayonnaise. vinegar, salt saltand
andpepper, Mackerel, be canbe rulRINfs- - can MAQUEREAUx MARINÉS Mackerel,
marinated. marinated.MAQUEREAUX

7t

horsinan anhorsservedin beserved prepared and shouldbe andshould readyprepared

bought ready bought container. originalcontainer. theoriginal inthe dishor orin
d'euvre dish d'œuvre prepared at home.Choose Choose athome. alsobe beprepared
canalso mackerel can Marinated mackerel Marinated (see inmarinade marinade(see
proceedas Smeltsin asfor forSmelts and proceed fishand verysmall small fish very
below). below). out. theseeds seeds andtake takethe drain,and inhalf, halldrain,
Cutmelons melonsin Melon- -Cut out. Melon greenleaves. leaves. withgreen
coveredwith dishcovered onaadish Serveon Cut inslices. slices.Serve Cut in ice.
crushedice. withcrushed Surround Surround with melon. hamwith withmelon. ofParma
Parmaharn slicesof thinslices servethin Theltalians Italiansserve The Proceed
coNFITs- -Proceed MELoNsCONFITS PETITsMELONS preservedmelons. melons.PETITS SmalJ
Smallpreserved forGherkins Gherkins the recipefor inthe indicatedin as melonsas
with indicated recipe verysrnall smallmelons withvery (seeGHERKINS). in vinegar(see
GHERKINS). invinegar inan an Servein serving.Serve beforeserving. 10days daysbefore
for10 Leave soakfor Leaveto tosoak jar. an earthenware jar. inan hors-d'œuvre
earthenware dishor orin hors-d'euvredish thin intoth Mortadellainto theMortadella
Cutthe in MortadelJa. MoRTADELLE- -Cut Mortadella.MORTADELLE into the slices
dividethe diameter,divide totheir theirdiameter, slices. slices into According to
slices.According flat or dish, an hors'd'uuvredish, quarters.Arrange onan Arrangeon
hors-d'œuvre fiat or halves halvesor orquarters. parsley. freshparsley. withfresh
rolled Garnishwith cornets.Garnish intocornets. rolledinto also hors-d'euvreisis
thishors-d'œuvre InFrance Francethis also Mousse MousseFanchon Fanchon- - In
kindsof of variouskinds ofvarious consistsof called mignonne.ItItconsists
moussemignonne. calledmousse mousses. mousses.
465 465
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
jelly,fi.!1 Coatsmall small mou moulds with jelly, fill them them with withthe
thevarious various Coat Ids with moussesand pieces of and decorate decorate with
withsmall smallpieces oftruffie. truffie.Put Putin inthe the mousses refrigerator.
refrigerator. just before Turn out out the themoulds moulds just beforeserving.
serving. Put Putthem themon on Tum canapis of of sandwich sandwich bread bread
toasted toasted and andspread spreadwith withaa canapés compound butter butterin
inkeeping keepingwith with the the mousse. mousse. Arrange Arrange on onaa compound
paper doyley. doyley. paper MoussesFanchon Fanchon can canalso also be be served
served on on tartlets tarflets or oron on Mousses artichokehearts. hearts.
artichoke Mulberries. MÛRES MOREs rnlicnns - Serve plain in a fruit dish or
Mulberries. FRAÎCHES - Serve plain in a fruit dish or plate covered on aa plate
green leaves. covered with with green leaves. on l\rlushrooms. CHAMPIGNONS
cHAMprcNoNs -- Cook Cook in in aa white white CourtCourtMushrooms. (see COURT-
BOUILLON) bouillon III /// (see COURT-BOUILLOIg mushrooms mushrooms cut cut
bouillon into small small dice. dice. Season Season with with an an oil oil and and
vinegar vinegar dressing, dressing, or or into with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. with
Mrrhttd cèpes cbpes and ad musbrooms. mushrooms. CÈPES, ctrns, CHAMPIGNONS
cHAMprcNoNs Marinated parboil for u.mrNfs -- Use Use small small firm firm white
white mushrooms. mushrooms. Parboil for 4 4 MARINÉS 'minutes in salted boiling
water. Drain and dry. put them in , minutes in salted boiling water. Drain and dry.
Put them in an earthenware earthenwaredish and cover cover them them with with aa
boiling boilingmarinade, an dish and marinade, prepared as as follows: follows:
prepared (2+ lb.) For 1 I kg. kg. (2i lb.) mushrooms, mushrooms, boil boil together
together for for 10 l0 minutes, minutes, For (scant pint, pnt,2l 5 dl. dl. (scant
(} pint, cups) vinegar, vinegar, Ii pint, jt cup) l\ dl. dl. (i cup) oil, oil, 5 2*
cups) 3 crushed garlig a crushed cloves garni made cloves of of garlic, a bouquet
bouqtet garni parsley made of 2 parsley of 2 3 roots, ! bay leaf, leaf, a a sprig
sprig of of thyme thyme and and a a little little fennel, fennel, 1 f bay I
teatearoots, spoon coriander, coriander, 6 peppercorns. to 8 6 to 8 peppercorns.
spoon Leave the the mushrooms mushrooms in in the the marinade marinade for for 4 4
to to 5 5 days. days. Leave Serve in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'eavre dish. dish.
Serve These mushrooms mushrooms can can be bottled in be bottled prescribed in the
the prescribed These jars of marinade. Bottling Bottling jars (scant quart, of 1 I
litre litre (seant quart, generous generous marinade. capacity must must be quart)
eapacity be boiled boiled for for 35 35 minutes; minutes; those those of! of !
quart) (scant pint, litre (scant pint,2l cups) capacity capacity need need only
only 25 25 minutes. minutes. litre 2i cups) Mussels. MouLEsCook in in white white
wine. wine. Shell, Shell, dry, dry season season - Cook Mussels. MOULES with oil
oil and and vinegar, vinegar, salt pepper, or salt and and pepper, or with with
mayonnaise. mayonnaise. with Mussels la ravigote. I la MouLEs,i, u RA uucom Cook
and and Mussels à ravigote. MOULES À LA VlGOTE - Cook drain large large mussels.
Put them in a terrine. Season a terrine. Season with with drain mussels. Put them
in Yinoigrette (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) to hard-boiled eggs, eggs, Vinaigrette
sauce to which which hard-boiled parsley, chervil, tarragon gberkins have chopped
gherkins have been parsley, chervil, tarragon and and chopped added. an hors-
d'euvre dish. added. Arrange Arrange on on an hors-d'œuvre dish. prepare Mussel
sslad. sALADE Mussel salad. SALADE DE DE MouLEs MOULES - Prepare the mussels as for
Mussels (see d la mariniire MUSSEL). Shell them and for Mussels à la marinière (see
MUSSEL). Shell dress dress with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, pepper pepper
andfines and fines herbes. herbes. Serve in an hors-d'euvre dish. hors-d'œuvre
dish. Mussels Mussels t à la la tartare. tartare. uourns MOULES A À r,A, LA TARTARE
TARTARE - Prepare Prepare some sorne large large mussels mussels as as for for
Mussels Mussels d à la la marinidre marinière (see (see MUSSEL). MUSSEL). Shell
Shell them them and and arrange arrange in in an an hors-d'a7wre hors-d'œuvre dish.
dish. Mask Mask with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Surround Surround with with half half slices slices of of lemon lemon cut cut with
with a a fluted fiuted knife. knife. Olives Olives - Arrange Arrange on on an an
hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish without without dressing dressing them. them.
Black Black olives. olives. olrvns OLIVES NorRrs NOIRES - These These can can be be
bought bought ready ready for for the the table table and and are are served served
without without dressing. dressing. Arrange Arrange on on an an hors-d'auvre hors-
d'œuvre dish. dish. Stufred OLIVES FARcns FARCIES- Choose Choose large large stoned
stoned olives, olives, Stuffedolives. olives. oLryEs which which have have been
been soaked soaked to to free free thern them from from salt. salt. Stuff Stuff
with with a a compound compound butter. butter. The The most most usual usual
stuffing stuffing for for olives olives is is Anchovy Anchovy butter butter (see
(see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Arrange Arrange the the
stuffed stuffed olives olives on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and
and dress dress with with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons oil. oil. Stuffed can
also also be be bought. bought. Stuffed olives olives can Onions. Onions. orcNoNs
OIGNONS - Cut Cut raw raw onions on ions into into dic€, dice, blanch, blanch,
drain, drain, and and season season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt
and and pepper, pepper, or or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Onions Onions ià la
la grecque. grecque. orcNoNs OIGNONS A À ra LA cnrceue GRECQUE - prepared Prepared
like likeArtichokes Artichokesd àIa lagrecque grecque(see (see above). abov~).
Onions OnionsIà Porientale l'orientale-- See See ONION. ON ION. Ox Ox muzzle muzzle
salad. salad. uusnAu MUSEAU DE DE BoEUF BOEUF EN EN SALADE SALADE - Blanch. Blanch,
cool cooland anddrain drainthe themuzzle. muzzle.Scrape Scrapeand andwash.
wash.Boil Boilthe the mtnzle muzzle in inaawhite whitecourt-bouillon court-
bouillon(q.v.), (q.v.),and andleave leaveititto tocool coolin inthe thepot. pot.
466

Drain,wipe wipedry dryand andcut cutinto intovery verythin thinslices.

slices.Season Drain, with Season with strongVinaigrette Vinaigrettesauce (seeSAUCE)
sauce(see SAUCE)to aastrong towhich whichonion onionand and parsleyhave
choppedparsley havebeen beenadded. added. chopped Arrange on onan anhors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvredish. dish.Decorate Decoratewith Arrange withtiny tinyrings rings orraw
rawon onions andchopped choppedhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. or ions and eggs.
Tbishors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvrecan canbe bebought bought ready-made. ready-made. This
plr.lrs DE proceedas Oxtongue tonguesalad. salad.PALAIS DEBOEUF BoEUFEN Ox -
-Proceed ENSALADE SALADE as above. above.

Oysters Oystcrs

Oysters. HuîTRES Hulrnrs -- Oysters Oysters. Oysters are are usually usually eaten
eaten raw. raw. There There are a a number number of of recipes recipes for are for
serving serving oysters as a a cold oysters as cold hors&orsd'euvre. The The most
d'œuvre. most famous famous are arc Oysters à d l'andalouse, l'andalouse, Oysters
Oysters in barquettes, barquettes, Oysters in Oysters with with caviare,
gastronome's caviare, The The gastronome's oyster and and Marinated Marinated
oysters. (See OYSTER.) oyster oysters. (See qnchovi€{r. ALLUMETTES Pastry straws
witb with ancbovies. ALLUMETTEs AUX AUx ANCHOIS ANcHors -Proceed as as for for
Allumettes Proceed Allumettes with (see Hot with anchovies anchovles (see Hot
horshorsd'euvre\ but serve serve cold. d'œuvre) Pastry straws straws with Pastry
with caviare. caviare. ALLUMETTES ALLuMETTEs AU AU CAVIAR cAvrAR -pastry as Prepare
pastry as for for Allumettes (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover Cover with with a a thin thin
Fish forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) layer of Fishforcemeat FORCEMEATS) and and cook
cook in in the oven. Cool and cover with fresh caviare. caviare. pastry straws.
ALLUMETTES À LA NonvfcrENNE NORVÉGIENNENorwegian pastry straws. ALLUITETTEs A r,e
Prepare the pastry pastry as Allumettes (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover as for for Allumettes
Cover with with a a thin layer of a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of hard-boilod hard-
boiled eggs, eggs, blended wrth, Bichamel with Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
Bake Bake in the oven. Leave to cool and garnish with Norwegian Norwegian anchovy
fillets. pastry straws. ALLTJMETTEs ALLUMETTES A À u LA pmrsENNE PARISIENNE
Parisian pastry Prepare Prepare the pastry pastry as for Allumettes Allumettes
(q.v.). Coat with a a thin layer layer of of chicken chicken Mousselineforcemedr
Mousselineforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) bake in the the oven. oven.
and bake Cool, garnish garnish with with thin th in strips strips of of breast
breast of of chicken chicken alternataltematCool, ing with slices of of trufres
truffies and and pickled pickled tongue. tongue. Glaze Glaze with with ing jelly.
jelly. pastry straws. ALLT,JMETTES ALLUMETTES vLADTMTR VLADIMIR - prepare Vladimir
pastry Vhdinir - Prepare the pastry pastry as as for for Allumettes Allumettes
(q.v.), (q.v.), coat coat with with a a thin thin layer layer of of the Pike
forcemeat forcemeat (w (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEA TS) and and Crayfish Crayfish
butter butter Pike (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven.
Leave Leave to to cool, cool, and and garnish gamish with small small slices slices
of of smoked smoked salmon, salmon, alternating alternating with with slices slices
witl of truffies. truffles. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. jelly. of Patties.
soucuEEsBOUCHÉES - Very Very small smallpatties patties made made of of puffpastry
puff pastry Patties. garnished gamished with with different different mousses;
mousses; prawns, prawns, shrimps, shrimps, craycrayfish, foie gras, gras, Eame,
game, poultry, poultry, etc. etc. frsh,fok BOUCHÉES FANcHoNNErre FANCHONNETTE -
Make Make Fancboonette patties. patties. soucHins Fanchonnette -salad very small
small patties patties of of puff puff pastry. pastry. Garnish Gamish with with a a
salad of very of breast of of chicken chicken and and a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.)
(q.v.) of of red red and and green green breast pepperswith with mayonnaise.
mayonnaise. Fut Puta a thick thick slice slice of oftrufre truffie on on each each
peppeni patty. patty.
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
patties can Small patties garnished in can be be garnished in the the same same way
way as as canapés, canapis, Small tartlets, and preparations. and other other
similar similar preparations. tartlets, prMENTs Dor.rx Pepperg sweet. sweet.
PIMENTS peppers, Skin the the pep open Peppers, DOUX -- Skin pers, open them and
and take take out out the the seeds. seeds. Cut Cut into into sticks sticks and and
season season with with them oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt pepper. Arrange salt and
and pepper. Arrange in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre oil, dish, sprinkle
sprinkle with parsley, and with chopped chopped parsley, garnish with and garnish
with thin thin dish, rings of of raw raw onion. onion. rings pETrrs pMENTs VERTS,
poIvRoNS green. PETITS PIMENTS Peppery small small green. vERTs, POIVRONS Peppers,
Proceed as as indicated indicated for for Sweet peppers above. Sweet peppers above.
Proceed Pickles Arrange in an hors-d'euvre dish or serve in the the Pickles --
Arrange in an hors-d'œuvre dish or serve in original container. container. original
(condimenQ Pissalat (condiment) This can can be bought ready-made. ready-made. be
bought Pissalat - This yourself pickle To make make it pickle a it yourself a
mixture mixture of of sm small shad, To aIl shad, herrings, sardines sardines and
and anchovies, anchovies, for for 8 8 days. days. Rub Rub through through a a
herrings, sieve and and dilute dilute with with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons
of of the the brine brine in in which which sieve the fish pickled. Add fish were
were pickled. jars. Add sorne some cl put into cloves and put into jars. oves and
the Seal weIl well and and keep place. keep in in a a cool cool place. Seal
Pissalat condiment condiment can can be be used used as as it it is, is, or or with
with oil oil added added Pissalat to it. it. to poMMEs DE Potatoes. POMMES TERRE --
Cooked DE TERRE Cooked in in water, water, cut cut into into Potatoes. dice or or
sliced, sliced, seasoned seasoned with with oil, oil, vinegar, salt salt and and
pepper, dice or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. or Printanilre See Spring Spring
vegetables vegetables below. below. Printanière - See Radisheg black. black. RADIS
RADrs NOIRS NorRsScrape the radishes and cut cut - Scrape Radishes, into thin thin
slices. slices. Sprinkle Sprinkle them with with salt salt and and leave leave them
them to into render their their liquor liquor for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Dry,
Dry, and and arrange arrange in in an an render hors-d'euvre dish. dish. hors-
d'œuvre A little little Vinaigrette (ser-, SAUCE) Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see
SAUCE) can can be be added. added. In A Russia, black black radish generally served
with radish is is generally with a a sour sour cream Russia, dressing. dressing.
Radishes, red red and white. RADIS RADrs ROSES, RosEs, RADIS RADrs GRIS cRrs Scrape
Radishes, - Scrape the radishes, radishes, cut green part part short, wash and
arrange cut the the green arrange in an the hors-d'euvre dish. Serve with salt and
and fresh butter. hors-d'œuvre Red radishes are are often often used used to to
decorate cold cold dishes and and Red radishes salad arrangements. arrangements.
salad Red mullet à i l'orientale l'orientde or red mullet with saffron. saffron.
ROUGETS RoucETS Red A L'oRrENr,qlE, AU SAFRAN SAFRAN Choose very small fish. fish.
Season Season À L'ORIENTALE, AU - Choose with pepper, roll and pepper, in flour,
deep-fry in hot oil. with salt and roll in Arrange fish on on an an oiled oiled
baking dish. dish. Cover Cover with Arrange the the fish Tomato fondue (see FONDUE)
spiced with a a little saffron, Tomato (see FONDUE) fennel, some grains of
coriander, coriander, fennel, thyme, powdered powdered bayleaf, sorne garlic and
garlic and chopped parsley. parsley. Bring Bring to the boil. Cover the dish and
and finish finish the cooking cooking in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes. Serve dish
with slices of of peeled lemon. Serve in in an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish
Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Rollnops of herring,
marinated Rollmops - Fillets Fillets of marinated and and strongly strongly spiced.
up and secured spiced. They They are are stuffed stuffed with with a a gherkin,
gherkin, rolled rolled up with with a a little little wooden wooden stick. stick.
Rollmops Rollmops are are served served on on an hors-d'auvre hors-d'œuvre dish
decorated with rounds rounds of of onions. on ions.

Rollmops Rollmops
pnrrrs PAINS pArNs GARNIS garnished. PETITS Ro[s, garnished. cARNrsChoose very very
small small RoUs, - Choose oblong-shaped rolls rolls made made with with butter.
butter. Similarly Similarly shaped shaped rolls rolls oblong-shaped (see DOUGH)
made from from ordinary ordinary Brioche Brioche dough dough (see DOUGH) can also
made can also be used. used. Fill Fill them thEm à d la hfrangaise, or à d la
larusse: russe: be française, or ta française. A la open on on one Cut open one
side side only. only. Spread Spread with with À frangare. Cut (either ordinary
butter (either ordinary butter butter or or mustard mustard butter). butter).
Garnish butter Garnish with thin (or other thin slices slices of poultry), ham, of
breast breast of of chicken chicken (or other poultry), ham, with pickled tongue,
fillet of tongue, fillet of beef, beef, smoked smoked salmon salmon or or similar
similar pickled items according grcs can to taste. taste. Various pur6es or
according to Various purées or foie can items foie gras also be as stuffing. be
used used as stuffing. aJso A la la russe. russe. Take Take a a round round slice
slice off off the the top top of of the the rolls. rolls. À Empty the the rolls
rolls through through this this opening opening without without breaking Empty
breaking the the crust. Fill Fill the pur6e, a the roll roll with (q.v.). with a a
purée, a salad, salad, or or a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.). crust. paper doyley,
Arrange on on a a paper doyley, or or on on a a napkin. napkin. Arrange Rolls à la
française d la are served served'at Rolls 'at luncheon luncheon or or as as
sandsandfrangaise are wiches. wiches. Rolls à d la la russe russe should should
always always be be very very small. small. They They belong Rolls belong to the
the Russian Russian hors-d'œuvre hors-d'auvre called called zakouski. zakouski. to
Salami -- Cut Cut into into thin thin slices, slices, arrange Salami arrange on on
an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre garnish with dish, garnish parsley. with fresh
fresh parsley. dish, Salmon à i la h canadienne. canadienne. SAUMON sAUMoN À A LA
re CANADIENNE clN.lonNtrg -- Cut Salmon Cut the salmon salmon in in squares squares
and and sauté saut6 in in oil. oil. Season the Season with with salt salt and and
paprika. paprika. pods (ladies' (ladies'fingers) Add okra okra pods poached Add
fingers) which have been which have been poached juice. Cover separately. Moisten
Moisten with with white white wine wine and and lemon juice. separately. Cover with
a a lid lid and and simmer for a a few few seconds. seconds. Leave simmer for to
cool. Leave to with cool. Arrange in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish.
Garnish Arrange Garnish with red and with red and cut into into dice. green
peppers, peeled and cut dice. Pour Pour a little olive a little olive oil oil the
dish. dish. over the Fresh salmon salmon can can be be served served as as an an
hors-d'œuvre hors-d'cavre following given for the instructions instructions given
for different different kinds the kinds of of fish fish as as horsd'euvre, d'œuvre.
pAUpTETTEs DE pupiettes à Salmon paupiettes Pinperisle. PAUPIEITES i l'impériale.
Salmon DE SAUMON sAUMoN A L'IMPÉRIALE r'mpfnLlrs -- Flatten thin narrow slices of
salmon, season, À coat lightly (see FORCElightly with with a a layer layer of of
Pike forcemeat (see coat MEATS) with a little shallot MEA TS) with a little shallot
and and sorne parsley some chopped choppod parsley added. Roll up up into the the
shape of of paupiettes added. paupiettes and and secure secure with string. Put the
into an an oiled pan, packing packing them Put the paupiettes into oiled pan, them
in fairly tightly. tightly. Moisten Moisten with fairly with a a few few
tablespoons white wine of lemonjuice. Season and add a little bouquet and a squeeze
oflemonjuice. of fennel. Simmer very slowly with the lid on. Drain Drain the
paupiettes, untie, and place place each the paupietles, untie, and on a each on a
small artichoke artichoke heart cooked in a white wine stock. Arrange Arrange in an
hors-d'auvre dish, sprinkle sprinkle with hors-d' œuvre dish, with the the stock in
which stock in which the paupiettes have been cooked, and and add a little olive
oil and and a few capers, half slices of lemon lemon cut few spices. Decorate with
capers, with a fluted fiuted cutter, and fresh parsley. parsley. Salmon paupiettes
PAUPIETTES DE SAUMON Salmon paupiettes au vert. pAr.JpIETTEs sAuMoN AU VERT -
Prepare the paupiettes as the preceding recipe. recipe. Cook as in the them
according to the instruction for Eels an au vert (se (see EEL). Smoked Smoked
sdnon. salmon. SAUMON FUMÉ - Cut the smoked salmon sAuMoN rurraf into very thin
slices. Arrange Arrange on an hors-d hors-d' euvre œu vre dish, flat or rolled into
cornets. Garnish Garnish with with fresh parsley. parsley. Smoked SAUMON Furd FUMÉ
A À r,l LA BosroNBOSTONSmoked salmon salmon Boston style. s,lu,roN NAISE - Cut Cut
100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) smoked salmon into very thin short 100 g. (4 oz.) oz.) cooked
mushrooms and 75 g. short strips. Add 100 and,75 (3 (3 oz.) each of of green and
red peeled pepper, cut cut in the same same way. way. Season Season with with
mayonnaise mixed mixed with with a a very very little Tabasco sauce (commercial
(commercial product). Arrange on an horshorsd'euvre d'œuvre dish, surround surround
with the the chopped yolks yolks and and whites of hard-boilod hard-boiled eggs,
eggs, and and sprigs sprigs of parsley. parsley. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped
parsley parsley and serve. serve. Smoked Smoked salmon salmon i à la la noscovite.
moscovite. sluuoN SAUMON rtnr6 FUMÉ A À rl LA MoscovrrE MOSCOVITE - Roll very small
small slices of of smoked salmon salmon into into cornets. cornets. Fill with fresh
fresh caviare. caviare. Arrange Arrange the the cornets cornets in a a circle
circle on on a a plate. plate. Decorate Decorate with with the the chopped chopped
yolks yolks and and whites whites ofhard-boiled of hard-boiled eggs, eggs, parsley
parsley and and capers. capers.
467 467
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Salt co4 cod, curried. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE MoRUE MORUE A À r'nrDIrNNE
L'INDIENNE Soak Soak the the salt cod and and cut into into thin thin slices. Wash
and dry the slices in in a cloth. clotho Flour lightly lightly and cook cook in in
boiling boiling oil. Take Take the the fish fish out out of the the pan. pan. Cook
2 tablespoons tablespoons (3

Sour-sweet Sour-sweet pickles pickles (acetodolce) (aceto-dolce) - Different

Different kinds kinds of
vegetables vegetables and fruits are commercially commercially preserved preserved
in vinegar. They are then th en put in a syrup of of must and honey spiced with

mustard. mustard.

tablespoons) tablespoons) finely finely minced minced onion onion in the pan, pan,
sprinkle in
~ cup) cup) white white wine wine and and a little !ittle lemon lemon juice, juice,
and add a little 3 crushed crushed garlic. Boil Boil for a a few few minutes
minutes and put the slices of cod cod into into this this court-bouillon. court-
bouillon. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil again, again, cover coyer and remove
rem ove from from the the heat. heat. Cool, Cool, arrange arrange in in a dish and
surround with lemon slices. slices. Salt Salt cod cod tongues tongues à la la
madrillne. madrilène. LANGTJEs LANGUES nB DE uonues MORUES A À rA, LA Mlpntr,iNe
MADRILÈNE - Cook an an unpeeled unpeeled clove clove of of garlic in in very hot
oil. oil. Toss Toss the the cod cod tongues tongues in in this this oil. Pour Pour
over over the the tongues tongues a sufficient quantity quantity of of vinegar
vinegar to to cover coyer them. them. Season Season with with thyme, thyme,
powdered powdered bay bay leaf leaf and and red red Spanish Spanish pepp€r. pepper.
Cook Cook in in an an open open pan pan for 12 minutes, minutes, and and sprinkle
in in a generous generous amount amount of freshly freshly chopped fennel. Leave
Leave to to cool cool in in the the stock. stock. Salt Salt cod cod tongueg
tongues, narinated. marinated. LANGr,tEs LANGUES Ds DE uonuEs MORUES MARTNfEs
MARINÉES - Soak Soak the the cod cod tongues tongues to to remove rem ove the the
salt. salt. Dry, Dry, and and fry fry in in olive olive oil. oil. Moisten court-
bouillon (q.v.) (q.v.) adding adding just just Moisten with with white white wine
wine court-bouillon enough enough to to cover coyer them. them. Cook Cook slowly
slowly for 12 12 minutes. minutes. Put Put the the tongues tongues and and the the
cooking cooking liquor liquor into into a a terrine. terrine. Leave Leave to to
cool. cool. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Sardines
Sardines in in oil. oil. SARDTNES SARDINES A À r'nurr.t L'HUILE - Arrange Arrange
on on an an hors-d'auvre hors-d'œuvre dish, dish, dress dress with with oil, oil,
and and garnish garnish with with capers capers and and fresh fresh parsley.
parsley. Sardine Sardine pur6e. purée. punfs PURÉE DE DE sARDTNEs SARDINES - Put
Put in in a a mortar mortar 12 12 well-boned well-boned sardines sardines which
which have have been been kept kept in olive olive oil. oil. Pound Pound theur them
in in the the mortar mortar together together $/ith with 4 4 yolks yolks of of
hardhardboiled boiled eggs. eggs. Pass Pass through through a a fine fine sieve
sieve and and use use for for cold cold or or hot hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre.
Sa$ages, Sausages, various. various. sAuclssoNs SAUCISSONS - There There are are
many many different different sausages sa usages which which can can be be bought
bought ready-made ready-made and and served served as as hors-d'euvre. hors-
d'œuvre. Cut Cut into into thin thin slices slices and and arrange arrange on on an
an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Seveloys
Saveloys (susage). (sausage). cERVELAs CERVELAS - Cook Cook various various kinds
kinds of of saveloys saveloys and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Cut Cut into
into thin thin slices slices and and serve serve like like other other sausages.
sausages. Sheep's Sheep's trotters trotters à ls la yinaigette. vinaigrette. prms
PIEDS on DE MouroN MOUTON A À rA, LA vINAIGRETTE VINAIGRETTE - Cook Cook the the
sheep's sheep's trotters trotters in in the the usual usual way way (see (see OFFAL
OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Drain, Drain, bone bone and and cut
cut into is still still hot, hot, into very very small small pieces. pieces. Season
Season the the meat meat while while it it is with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar,
salt, salt, pepper, pepper, onions onions and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley.
Arrange Arrange in in small small salad salad bowls bowls or or in in an an hors-
d'auvre hors-d'œuvre dish. Shetlfish, Shellfish, mixed. mixed. FRr.rrrs FRUITS DE
DE MER MER - Different Different kinds kinds of of shellshellfish fish served
served raw. raw. Shrimps. CREVETTES - Shrimps Shrimps seasoned seasoned with with
oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, Shrimps. cREvETrEs salt salt and and pepper, pepper, or
or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Shrimp Shrimp sdad. salad. SALADE SALADE DE DE
cRwErrEs CREVETTES - Shell Shell the the shrimps shrimps

I 1 tablespoon tablespoon curry powder, moisten moisten with with l+ 11 dl. dl. $
(i pint,

Arrange in an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish or serve in the the original jar.

jar. Sprats - Take the heads and the tails off off the fish and skin skin Sprats
them. them. Arrange Arrange on on a a plate plate and and sprinkle sprinkle with
with chopped shallots and and parsley. Moisten Moisten with oil and and vinegar and
leave to steep for several several hours in this marinade marinade before serving.
serving. Arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and and garnish
garnish with with fresh parsley.

Spring vegetables vegelables Spring

beans, beans, carrots carrots and and turnips turnips cut cut into into very very
small small squares, squares, peas peas and Drain and and season season with with
oil, oil, and asparagus asparagus tips tips in in water. water. Drain vinegar,
vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper.

Spring vegetables vegetables (printanibrc) (printanière) - Cook Cook diced diced

French French Spring

and put therr them in in a a deep deep dish. dish. Cover Coyer with with
mayonnaise. mayonnaise. and put

Garnish Garnish the the dish dish with with lettuce, lettuce, leaving leaving the
the centre centre free; free; fill fill trris this with with rounds rounds of of
hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Srgul Sigui, smoked. smoked. srcur SIGUI ruuf
FUMÉ - Cut Cut smoked smoked slgzi sigui into into very very thin thin slices,
slices, arrange arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and and
garnish garnish with You can can also also use use smoked smoked sigui sigui for
for filling filling with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. You barEtettes, barquettes,
canapis, canapés, tartlets, tartlets, etc. etc. Smelts SmeJts in in marinade.
marinade. 6pm,r,,q,rs ÉPERLANS MARTNEs MARINÉS - Clean Clean and and dry dry
carefully carefully chosen chosen smelts. smelts. Roll Roll in in flour flour and
and fry fry them them in in boiling boiling oil oil so so that that they they
quickly quickly colour colour on on both both sides. sides. Season. Season. Drain
Drain the the smelts. smelts. Arrange Arrange them them in in a a deep deep dish,
dish, cover coyer with with rounds rounds of ofblanched blanched onions onions and
and sprinkle sprinkle with with thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf. leaf. Add Add
peppercorns peppercorns and and cloves. cloyes. Cover Coyer with with cold cold
conconcentrated 12 hours hours in in this this centrated vinegar. vinegar. Leave
Leave the the smelts smelts for for 12 marinade. marinade. Serve Serve in in an an
hors-d'ezvre hors-d'œuvre dish. dish.
468 468

Tapenade (Provengrle (Provençale recipe) recipe) - This This consists consists of

of olives olives Tapenade pounded pounded with with desalted desalted anchovy
anchovy fillets fiUets and and capers, capers, the the whole whole 'being being
blended blended with with olive olive oil oil and and lemon lemon juice, juice,
then then seasoned seasoned with pepper. pepper. Serve Serve on on toast. toast.
with Tartlets, garnished. garnished. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES cARNtEs GARNIES -
Garnished Garnished Tartletq tartlets in the the same same way way asbarquettes; as
barquettes; tartlets are are prepared prepared and and filled filled in the the
only only difference difference lies lies in in their their shape. shape. Tartlets
Tartlets are are baked baked in in small or fluted fluted borders. borders. small
round round tins tins with with plain plain or Toas{ Toast, gamished. garnished.
roAsrs TOASTS cARNrsGARNIS - All Ali recipes recipes for for garnished garnished
canapés can can be be used used for for garnished garnished toast. toast. canapis
Tomatoes. ToMATES TOMATES - Peel Peel and and seed seed the the tomatoes. tomatoes.
Cut Cut Tomatoes. them into into dice dice or or slices. slices. Sprinkle Sprinkle
with with salt, salt, leave leave them them to to them stand for for a a time time
and and season season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and
pepper. pepper. stand Tomatoes à I'antiboise. l'antiboise. ToMATEs TOMA TES A À
r'^nl.tflsorsn L'ANTIBOISE - Choose Choose Tomatoes red, red, uniform, uniform,
small small tomatoes. tomatoes. Take Take out out the the seeds seeds without
without damaging the the flesh. flesh. Leave Leave them them for for I 1 hour hour
in in oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, damaging salt and and pepper. pepper. Garnish
Garnish with with a a mixture mixture of of chopped chopped tunny tunny salt (tuna
(tuna fish) fish) in in oil, oil, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, capers,
capers, parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and tarragon tarragon blended blended
with with a a strongly strongly flavoured flavoured mayonmayonand naise to to which
which anchovy anchovy essence essence has has been been added. added. Arrange
Arrange on on naise

i
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
trufles into dice or Trufles. TRUFFES Truffies. TRUFFEs - Cut cooked or raw
truffies or with salt and and pepp€r, oil, vinegar, strips, with oil, vinegar, salt
pepper, or strips, season with jelly or with a mayonnaise. Truffies can also be
blended blended with withjelly mayonnaise. Chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE). brown
Chaud-froid (trna fish). oil, cut into dice, fisb). THON Tunny (tuna THoN -
Marinate in oil, mayonnaise. season season with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, or
mayonnaise. (trna fish) A LA r.n NlNrerse rtroN À Tunny (tuna fish) à NANTAISE i la
nantaise. THON - Cut ssa1lt* of Horseradish the fish into slices. Co ver with a
thin coating Horseradish Cover (see BUTTER, Arrange the butters). Arrange butter
BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butter (see plate, alternating with on a a
plate, slices by two two in in a two by a circ1e circle on slices two Garnish the
centre with a salad rounds of cooked beetroot. Garnish Sprinkle with chives and
chopped of mussels and potatoes. Sprinkle tarragon. (funa fish) in oil. THON
t'ttuttE -- Arrange A L'HUILE Arrange canned Tunny (tuna rsoN À dish, dress with
oil oil and and garnish tunny on an tunny an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish,
parsley. with capers or fresh parsley. gamished. BARQUETTES rfcuuns BARet ETTES DE
Vegetable boats, boats, garnished. Vegetable DE LÉGUMES vegetables, mainly mainly
beetroot beetroot and GARNIES cARNIEs Pieces of of vegetables, - Pieces garnished
in cucumber, shaped like boats, hollowed hollowed out and garnished different
different ways. barquettes apply as garnishes for Ali All the fillings given for
barquettes garnishes for this this kind kind of vegetable vegetable boats. The most
usual garnishes pur6es, vegetable macédoine, macidoine, purées, hors-d'œuvre hors-
d'euvre are are caviare, caviare, vegetable shellfish. butter compounds, salpicons
of shellfish. oE LÉGUMES r"fcutuns -- Cook JULTENNE DE Cook the V egetabl~
lulienne. julienne. JULIENNE Vegetable a covered pan: following fine frne julienne
(q.v.) slowly in in oil in a (4 oz., g. (4 (a oz., g. (4 I cup) of the white part
of leeks, 100 g. 100 g. oz., 1 (2 oz., t g. (2 Season. 1 I cup) celery and and 50
g. * cup) onions. Season. (2 oz., add 50 g. oz.,l When three-quarters cooked add 1
cup) raw E (2 fresh cream mushrooms cut julienne strips. Blend with fresh cut into
into julienree what other leave as as it it is, is, according to to what or or
mayonnaise, or or leave dishes you are serving. serving. raenNes Whitebait, NONATS
MARINÉS Whitebait, marinated. NoNATs Put the fish in a - Put a boiling marinade
made with white deep dish, dish, and and pour in a serving. Arrange in wine. wine.
Cover and leave leave to to cool before before serving. Cover and with chopped
parsley, and and an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with
a fluted cutter. half surround with ha If slices of lemon cut with a NoNArs a twig
of thyme, DE NONA Whitebait TS Whit€bait salado salad. SALADE sALADE DE - Put a pot
of water. into a water. Bring to to the a a bay bay leaf leaf and and sorne some
salt into a pot I minute. Drain, arrange arrange in a boil, put thefish the fish in
and boil for 1 sprinkle with salad or an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish,
and and sprinkle salad bowl bowl or (se SAUCE). Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE).
pigs' trotters. and Zampino Boned and and stuffed stuffed pigs' Cook and trotters.
Cook - Boned on an an horsleave to cool. cool. Cut into into thin thin slices
slices and and arrange on garnished with parsley. Zampino can be bought d'œuvre
d'euvre dish, garnished ready cooked in in shops selling Jtalian Italian produce.
noRs-p'GUvRE CHAUDS HOT HORS-D'ŒUVRE. HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'œuVRE cHAUDS a suitable
Allumettes - Puff pastry rectangles, spread with a and baked in the oven. mixture
and Make Puffpastry(see Puffpastry (see DOUGH). Roll out to a thickness thickness
of (3 inches) c-. (t inch) inch) and and cut cut into into ribbons ribbons 71 7t
cm. cm. (3 inches) long. 1 * cm. fish, and add the Spread with a a cold forcemeat
of poultry or fish, garnish appropriate appropriate to to the the recipe. (l inch)
wide. Cut the ribbons into rectangles about 2lcm. cm. (1 Put Put on on a a baking
baking sheet sheet and and bake bake in in the the oven oven for for 12 12 to to 15
15 minutes. Arrange on a a napkin and and serve very hot. Allumettes with L
ALLUMETTES lrluugTrrs AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -with anchovies anchovies I. (see
FORCEMEAT) Spread forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) with Spread with with Fish Fisft
forcemeat Anchovy Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters.)
Garnish with fillets fillets of anchovy. Allumettes with II. ALLUMETTES ALrx
ANCHOIS ANcHors -with anchovies n. lnul,tpTTEs AUX Spread with Salpicon anchovies
and and hardSalpicon (q.v.) of fillets of anchovies boiled eggs blended with thick
Béchamel UCE). Bichamel sauce (see SA SAUCE). Allumettes à forcemeat l'andalouse i
l'andalouse Spread with with Poultry forcemeat - Spread (see FORCEMEAT) seasoned
paprika, mixed (see with paprika, nixed with with a seasoned with a salpicon
salpicon of and onions onions cooked cooked in in butter, also ham and of lean lean
harn butter, also seasoned seasoned with paprika.

Stuffed tomatoes

plate, sprinkle with the marinade, an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'uavre dish dish or

plate, and garnish with fresh parsley and half slices of lemon cut with a fluted
cutter. Tomatoes, ToMATHI FARCIES FARcIES Tomatoesr stufJed. strffed" TOMATES -
Prepare tomatoes as described described in the recipe for Tomatoes à d l'antiboise
I'antiboise (see above). Garnish with a compound purée, Russian Russian salad, or a
compound butter, pur6e, salpicon salpicon (q.v.).

presented in a Stuffed tomatoes presented a hollowed-out hollowed-out cucumber

Tomatoes TES À A LA rl VINAIGRETTE vINAIcRETTE la vinaigrette. TOMA rou.e,tss

Tomatoes à i la Skin the tomatoes, take out the seeds and water and cut into slices
or quarters. Put on a and leave a towel, cover with salt and them to I hour. to
render their liquor for 1 Arrange and dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with oil oil and
hors-d'euvre dish, Arrange in in an an hors-d'œuvre parsley, chervil vinegar, and
tarragon. tarragon. Sprinkle chervil and vinegar, chopped chopped parsley, ground
pepper pepper and with freshly ground and garnish with thin rounds of raw raw
onion. Tongue, ruut -pickled and LANGUE ÉCARLATE, fcmtltr, FUMÉ Tongue, pickJed
smoked. LANGUE and smoked. Cut into thin slices and hors-d'euvre dish. dish. and
serve in an hors-d'œuvre Trout, MARINEEs very small Trout marinated. TRITITEs
MARINÉES Cook very mrrinated. TRUITES - Cook (see COURT-BOUILLON). trout in Court-
bouillon trout in XII (see Court-bouillon XII Leave Leave them them to in their to
cool in their cooking cooking stock. stock. Arrange Arrange in in an hors-d'œuvre
hors-d'euvre dish. dish. Pour Pour the the stock over the the fish fish and and
garnish parsley. with seeded and slices of lemon, and and peeled slices and fresh
fresh parsley. Trout à i l'orientale. I'orientale. TRUITES A L'ORIENTALE
t'onIENrAln -- Prepare TRUITES À Prepare and and cook very small trout as mul/et à
as indicated for for Red Redmullet d l'orientale I'orientale above. Arrange Arrange
on an hors-d'euvre dish. an hors-d'œuvre dish. Trout, smoked. TRUITES ruvrfss --
Garnish and TRUITES FUMÉES and serve with with toast and and lemon.

2t

469 469
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Allumettes è i la la chalonnai.se chalonnaise -- Spread with with Poultry Poultry
forceAllumettes force(s@ FORCEMEAT) to meat (sec to which diced diced cocks'
cocks'combs and meat combs and have been kidneys, mushrooms mushrooms and truffies
truffes have been added. added. kidneys, Allumettes Chavette Chavette -- Spread
Spread with with Fish Fisft forcemeat AUumettes forcemeat (see (see BUTTER,
FORCEMEAQ wÎth with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER', ComFORCEMEAT)
pottnd butters). butters). Garnish Garnish with with crayfish crayfish tails tails
and and truffies. trufres. pound Alhmettes P6carlate i l'éclU"late Spread with wth
Vea/ Veal forcernear AD 0 mettes è - Spread forcemeat (see pickled or FORCEMEAT) to
which which a a salpicon salpicon of of pickled or smoked FORCEMEA T) to tongue has
has becn been added. added. puree of Nhrmettes è l'6cossairse i l'écossaise Spread
with with purée haddock of haddock AUl.lmCUI~ - Spread with thick lldchamel sauce
blended with thick Béchamel sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). bleoded Allumettes à i la Ia
florentine florentine with spinach spinach cooked cooked in in Allumettes - Spread
with butter, blended blended with with thick thick Bichamel sauce sauce (see
SAUCE), grated cheese to which grated has been cheese bas been added. added.
Sprinkle with to just before serving. Parmesan cheese and brown in the cheese and
brown in the oven oven jusl serving. Parmesan prssALAT pissalat TOlmTE Anchory fart
tail widl with pissalat. ToT.JRTE D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors AU AU PISSALAT Anchovy pasre
(see (see DOUGH) Roll out ourt Lining Lining paste DOUGH) 1 I cm. cm. $ inch)
truck. thick. - Roll Line a a large large tart tart tin tin wi with the pastry,
crimp the the edges. edges. Line th the fillets of of anchovy, dry dry them well in
a cloth and and cover cover Desalt fillels pastry with the pastry with [hem them in
in a a criss-cross criss-cross pattern. Sprinkle with with the I tablespooo
tablespoon finely finely chopped onions and distribute 20 20 black 1 (scant t
olives on on top. top. Dress Dress with with 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (seant
olives I cup) olive (3 tablespoons) pissalat (q.v.). (q.v.). oil mixed with with 2
2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) pissalal oil in a a slow oven. oven. Serve Serve very
hot. Cook in Anchoyade 1 IDesalt and and scrape fiJlets fillets of of anchovy and
Anchoyade - Desalt ste€p them for for several several minutes in in olive oil oil
to whieh which chopped chopped steep garlic and ground pepper pepper have and
ground have been added. garlic pieces of Arrange the the flllets fillets on on
large pÎeces of crust crust eut from the cut from Arrange part of lower part of
home-made bread. Crush the fiJlets fillets ooto onto the Jower pieces of bread
thern with with other other pieces brpad cut of bread cut into into bread by by
pressing pressing them squares, which are then The diners diners eat eat these
squares, which are then removed. removed. The with squares one after the other, as
they become impregnated with anchovy. anchovy. Moisten the crusts with with the the
oil oil in in which Moisten the crusts wruch the fillets flllets have grill.
soaked, and and grill. This Provengal dish dish is This is known known in in the
Bouches-du-Rh6ne Bouches-du-Rhône district of quichel. district under under the
name na me of Etichet. Archoyade II - Desalt of anchovy. Pound, moistenAncboyade
IlDesalt fillets fillets of ing with and vinegar. with a a few few tablespoons
I.2.blespoons olive oil oil and Spread this Cover with on large slices slices of of
bread. bread. Cover [his pur6e on slices of eggs and minced onions. Add a few of
hard-boiled eggs minced onions. Add a slices drops oil, season pepper and drops of
of olive olive oi!, season with with freshly ground ground pepper heat heat lightly
lightly in in the the oven. oven. Attereaux to the the method melhod of of cooking
on Attereaux - Name N ame given to skewers, skewers, in in which which the the
ingredients, instead of of being grilled, are are coated coated with with a a
sauce, sauce, dipped into into egg egg and breadcrumbs, and and fried. fried. All
Ali the the ingredients Ingredients are first first cooked, then theo cut cut into
into pieces. pieces. Any ingredient for attereaux Ingredient used used for
allereaux must be be quite cold before it is put on on a a wooden wooden or or
metal metal skewer. skewer. The different diiferent ingredients used used are are
garnished garnished according according to ta their their nature with with
mushrooms, mushrooms, truffes, truffles, etc. etc. The The sauce sauce must must be
he thick thick and and almost almost cold. cold. When When the the skewer skewer is
is full full and and coated coated with with sauce sauce it it is is left left to
ta get quite quite cold before it ÎI is is dipped into egg and and breadcrumbs.
breadcrumbs. Attereaux are are fried just just before serving, drained and and
dried, dried, arranged on on a a napkin napkin and and garnished garoished with
fresh fresh parsley. parsley. If ]f wooden waoden skewers skewers are are used used
they they are taken taken out when the the cooking serving. cooking is is finished
finished and and replaced by by silver skewers skewers for 1"''''''''~''J ..'l,n
Use Use short short metal metal skewers instead instead of of wooden wooden ones
ones if possible. This This does does away away with with the the necessity
nece.ssity of of replacing replacing the the skewers after after cooking. cooking.
In In ancient ancient times times attereaux attereaux wete were served served as as
an an entrie entrée volante volante or or small small enftie. entrée. They were
were served served in in a circle on a a crust crust of of fried fried sandwich
sandwich bread, or or on on a a foundation foundation of of rice. nce. All of meat,
meat, fish, fish, shellflsh shellfish and and a a variety variety of of other other
Ali kinds kinds of food, food, cut eut into into small small square square pieces,
pieces, can cao be he used used for for attereaux. attereaux. The The sauce sauce
can can be he white white or or brown, brown, made made from from meat, meat, fish
fish
470

or vegetable vegetable stock. stock, according according ta to the the principal

ingredient ingredient of of or the atlereaux. attereaux. Thjs This ingredient given
to ingredient rti>II the ... ,.,ml1nP< the name determines name given to the
attereaux attereaux on on the the menu. menu. the Attereaux è i l'écarlate
l'6carhte -- Pickled Pickled or or smoked smoked tangue, tongue, Attereaux
mushrooms and and truffies trufres coated coated with with thick thick Velouté
Velouti sauce sauce mushrooms (see SAUCE) puree added. SAUCE) with with tomato
tomato purée added. (sec Attereaux à la Villeroi I la Villeroi -- Brains. Brains,
cocks' cocks' combs combs or or combs combs of of Attereaux gras, sweetbreads.
other birds. birds, foie sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'kidneys, etc. The The other
kidneys, etc. foie gras, dish may may be be completed completod with with the the
addÎtÎons additions of of mushrooms. mushrooms, dish pickled tongue, truffies,
artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, pickled ham, etc. tongue, harn, etc. Poultry
Poultry truffles. or other cold cold meat meat can can be be used used in in the
same way. the same way. Coat with Coat with or Villeroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
Villeroi ATTEREAUX on ::::.:R crnveI,rn Attereaux of brain i I'ancienne. A TfEREAUX
DE VELLE À A L'.a,NcIENNE Poached brain, brain, mushrooms mushrooms and and
truffies trufles L'ANCIENNE - Poached coated with with Villeroi sauce (see SA
SAUCE). coated UCE). Attereaux ofbnùn of brain à A ltitalienne. ATTEREAUX
ATTEREAT.TX DE oe CERVELLE cERvnr-l.g À Attere1!UX A L'ITALIENNE Poached brain,
brain, haro ham and and mushrooms coated L'ITALIENNE coated - Poached with Duxelles
sauce (see SA SAUCE). with U CE). la mirepoix. nirepoix. A brain i la ATTEREAT.TX
DE CER ctsRvELLE TTEREAUX DE VELLE Attereaux of bram A LA r.l MIREPOlX
rr,rnnpoD( -. Poached brain and harn ham coated brain and coated with À with -
Poached mirepoix (q.v.) of (see of vegetables blended blended with with Villeroi
sauce (see mirepoix sAUCE). SAUCE). Attereaux of cbicken chicken livers è i hl la
duxeUes. duxelles. AITEREAUX ATTEREAUX DE DE Attereaux FoIEs DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE À
A LA r,c, DUXELLES ouxerrss Chicke,n Iivers livers browned fOIES - Chicken lightly
in butter and mushrooms eoaled coated with with Duxelles sauce (see SAUCE). (see
Attereaux of of cocks' cocks' combs combs Il i l'ancienne. l'ancienne. AT11:lREAUX
ATTEREAIx DE Attereaux cRErEs DE DE COQ coe À A r'lNcrrNr*s Cocks' combs combs
stuffed stuffed à cR!n:.s L'ANCIENNE Cocks' ri la /a (q.v.), ham &txelles (q.v.),
and mushrooms coated coated with with Villeroi duxelles haro and (see SAUCE) with
tomatoes. sauce (see Attereaux lobster. ATTEREATTx DE DE HoMARD Attereaux of lobs
ter. ATTEREAUX HOMARD - Lobster, (see mushrooms and truffles trufres coated coated
with with Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see mushroorns and SAUCE) or Shellfish
Shellfish butter butter (see BUTTER', Compound Compound SA UCE) or (see BUTTER,
butters\. butters). Attereaux of of oysters. ATTERBALx Attereaux ATfEREAUX
n'HulTnns D'HuîTRES - Poached Poached (xe oysters and coated with with Villeroi
Villeroi sauce sauce (see and mushrooms coated SAUCE) based on fish flsh stock.
Attereaux i La la royale and à i la Attereaux of of Parmesan, Pa!'tlleSSIl, also
knonm knOWll as è princesse. ATTEREALx AU princesse. ATTBREAUX AU IARITTEsAN
PARMESAN - Cook a stiff semolina with Spread out to with Parmesan. Spread 10 cool
on a a baking sheet in a 2tctn. ~-cm. (finch) (i-înch) layer. layer. When quite
cold, cut eut into ioto circlets 21 cm. l-cm. (l (1 inch) in diameter. diameter.
Put these on the the skewers, skewers, alternating alternating with with rounds of
Gruydre Gruyère cheese. cheese. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs, crumbs. but not with
any sauce. Attereaux ATI"EREAUX DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, RIs RIS Attere.aux
of sweetbreads. ATTEREALTX DE DE vEAUVEAU - Sweetbreads, Sweetbreads. mushrooms
mushrooms and truffies coated coated with Villeroi VUleroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
SA UCE). Attereaux Attereaux of various various vegetables vegetables. ATTEREATIx
ATTEREAUX os DE LfcuMss LÉGUMESCooked Cooked or or parboiled vegetables, such such
as as artichoke hearts, hearts, pumpkin, carrots, celeriac, etc. carrots, etc. One
One of of these these or or various various combinations combinat ions can cao be
used. Coat Coat with thick Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE).
Barquetteg Barquettes., gamished. garnisbed. BARe{JETTEs BARQUETTES cARNTES GARNIES
- Oval-shaped tartlets tartlets lined lined with with different kinds kinds of of
pastry (puff pastry, ordinary lining (pie) pastry, paslry, etc.) etc.) baked blind
and filled with different ingredients. Roll out out the the pastry pastry 2l 2i mm.
mm. ($ (~ inch) inch) thick. thick. Stamp Stamp the the dough dough out out with
with a a fluted ftuted oval aval pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Butter Butter
barquette barquette baking baking tins, tins, plain or fluted. fluted. Put Put the
the cut-out eut-out pieces of of pastry into into the the moulds, pressing pressing
well weIl down down so that that they cling cling to to all sides sides of of the
the tins. tins. Prick Prick the the pastry pastry lining lining the the base base
of the the tins tins to to prevent prevent blistering. Put Put greaseproof
greaseproof paper paper in in each each and fill fil 1 the the tins tins with with
dried peas or or rice. rice. Bake Bake in in a a moderate moderate oven oyen for 12
12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Remove the the paper paper and and the the peas
peas or or rice. rÎce. Take Take the tbe pastry pastry out out of of the the tins,
tins. brush brush with with egg egg and and put put back baek into iOlo the the
oven oven for for a a few few minutes minutes to to dry, dry, leaving leavll1g the
the oven oven door door open. open. This This way way of of preparing prepanng
pastry pastry is îs called caUro baking baking blind blind (un(un-
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

filld). The The reason for filling filling the reason for the tartlets tartlets
with with dried drid ve~~et<lblc~s vegetables filled). (which are or cereals
cereals (which are mken taken out out after after cooking cooking and can be or
used again) again) is is to keep the to keep the pastry uniformly hollow. hollow.
used Fillings for barEtettes. The ingredients of the the fillings fiIlings vary
vary Fillings for barquettes. according to to the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen.
The most pur6es, most usual usual are are purées, according ragofrts and and
salpicons. You can salpicons. You can also also fil] fill barquettes barquettes
with with the the ragoûts garnishes given for patties, tartlets, for patties,
tartlets, etc. etc. garnishes Once filled, serve serve the the barquettes
barquettes as tley are, as they are, or or sprinkle sprinkle Once with fried fried
breadcrumbs grated cheese breadcrumbs or or grated cheese and and brown brown under
under with grill. Decorate the grill. Decorate as indicated in as indicated in the
the recipe. recipe. the Serving barquettes. barquettes. Cover Cover a a dish dish
with paper with a a napkin napkin or or aa paper Serving doyley and and arrange
arrange the the barquettes barquettes on on i1. it. Garnish Garnish with with
doyley parsley. parsley. Barqtettes can can be be served served as as a a small
small entrée entrie or or entrée enffde Barquelles volante.In this case should be
case they should be baked baked in in slightly slightly bigger bigger In this
volante. than for for hors-d'euvre. moulds than Barquettes à A l'américaine
I'am6ricaine -- Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of Harqllettes
spiny lobster and spiny r,'-'C"T'r.n and Lobster Lobster à l'amiricairc (se
LOBSTER), d l'américaine sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs put in the
ove,n for a breadcrumbs and and put sprinkle short time. short Barquettes witb with
ancbovies. anchovies. BARQUETTES sAReuETTEs AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -Barquettes
Desalt anchovy fillets. fillets. Dice Dice mushrooms mushrooms and' and'onions
Desalt on ions and and cook slowly slowly in butter. Blend ail butter. Blend all
together together with with Béchamel Bicharnel cook (s* SAUCE). SAUCE). Bake Bake
the the barquettes barqtettes blind sauce (see blind and and fill fill them them
the above salpicon. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs fried with
the fried in in butter and and drained. drained. Put Put into into a very hot hot
oven a very oven for for a butter a few few minutes. Barquettes à i la bouquetière
Blend mixed bonquetiCre Barquettes mixed vegetables with with - Blend (see SAUCE).
Bicharnel or or Velouté Velouti sauce (see Béchamel Fill the barquettes SAUCE).
Fill barEtettes and put on each a a small small bouquet of and of asparagus
asparagus tips. tips. Barquettes witb with cbestnuts. chestnuts. BARQUETTES
BAReUETTEs AUX Barquettes Aux MARRONS MARRoNs -(see DOUGH) Use Fine Use Fine lining
paste (see DOUGTI) and and bake bake cases cases for for barEtettes, as as
indicated above. purie barquettes, above. Fill Fill with with Chestnut Chestnut
purée CHESTNU-[). Pile the puree into a (see CHESTNUT). the purée a dome dome and
and smooth smooth the surface. grated Parmesan surface. Sprinkle the Sprinkle with
with grated Parmesan cheese. cheese. Pour Pour melted butter over it and brown in
in a a hot oven. Barquettes witb Halrquett415 with mussels. mussels. BARQUETTES
BAReUETTEs DE DE MOULES MouLEs -- PrePrepare Mussels à (see MUSSELS), d la la
poulette (see pare MUSSELS), fill fill the the bWbarquettes, sprinkle fried
breadcrumbs over them, and quelles, sprinkle in the the and put in oven for a few
minutes. BarErettes Barquettes witb with oysters. BARQUETTES BAReT,JETTEs D'HuîTRES
o'lrulrnrs -- Poach the the oysters oysters and and drain. Fill Fill the the
barEtettes and and cover cover with (se SAUCE). Brown in a very hot oven. Oyster
sauce (see Barquettes witb with sbrimps. shrinps. BARQUETTES BAReTJETTES DE DE
CREVETTES cREvETTEs -Make a ragofrt of shrimp a ragoût shrimp tails. tails. FiJI
Fill the the barquettes. barquettes. Spoon Spoon over (se SAUCE). over some sorne
Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with cheese and brown
under the grill. Beuuecks i à la Banrrecks (8 oz., la trrque 1 g. (8 IDice 225 225
g. oz., 2 2 cups) - Dice Gruyère cheese, mix with 1 tablespoons, scant * cup)
Gruydre I dl. (6 tablespoons, c.rp) Béchamel sauce (see thick, almost cold,
Bichamel (se SAUCE) and leave to get quite cold. mixture into into small small
portions of Divide the mixture of about about 50 50 g. (2 oz.) and and mould into
cigar cigar shapes. Make sorne some ordinary Q noodle paste paste (see (see
NOODLES, NOODLES, Fresh noodles), noodles), roll noodle roll out enclose each each
portion portion of cheese wafer thin, enclose cheese mixture in in an an piece of
of noodle noodle paste, dip in egg and breadcrumbs and oval piece serving. fry just
before serving. Beun'ecl{s i à Ia la furqne turque tr II - Make Make the the
mixture mixture of of chee se and Benrrecks cheese Béchamel sauce sauce as as in
the above above recipe. Bichamel Make ordinary noodle noodle paste, pas te, roll
out wafer thin, cut into Make round pieces, pieces, put the cheese cheese and
Bicharnel Béchamel mixture on on the round paste and fold fold it like a a
turnover. turnover. Dip in egg egg and and breadpaste crumbs and and fry just just
before before serving. serving. crumbs - Blinis are are pancakes pancakes made with
Blinis (Russian cookery) Blinis with popular in Russia. Russia. They are often
served served with with yeast, very very popular yeast, with sour fresh caviare
caviare sprinkled with with melted melted butter, butter, or with fresh cream.
cream. First method. method. Dilute Dilute I 7 g.Goz.) g. (i oz.) yeast in 2 2 dl.
$ (t pint, scant scant First
471 471

passthrough cup) warm warm milk. milk. Mix. Mix, do do not not let let curdle,
curdle,pass through aa generous cup) strainer. Sieve Sieve 125 125 g.(4 oz.,
oz.,generous cup)white whiteBour flourand and (5oz., 150g. oz., lf cups)
buckwheatflour,and andmixtogetherwith 150 g. (5 mix pinchof salt. Put inaabowl
ofsalt. bowland and addthe aapinch the liquid. Mix in the yolks of pasteshould of
33eggs. eggs. The The paste should have have theconsisteney yolks consistencyof of
pancake batter batter and andcare careshould should be betaken takeota tokeep
keepit pancake itlight. light. place for rise in l*,aveto to rise inaawarm warm
place for 22hours. hours. Leave (scant { pint, generous Add2 beaten egg eggwhites
whitesand Add 2 beaten and2l dl. dl. (scant cup) whipped whipped cream. eup) cream.
Cover Coverand and leaveto torise rise for 20minutes. minutes. (9 oz., Second
Second method. method. Make Makeaa yeast batter g.(9 batterusing using 250 250 g.
g. G oz.) yeast, 2f cups) cups) sifted yeas!and (scant I siftedflour, flour, 15 15
g. and2! 2ldl. dl.(scant pint, generous generous cup) placefor cup) warm wann milk.
Leave in inaawarm warmplace for 2 hours. hours. (4i oz., g. (4!Add 125 125 g. Add
pinch of oz., generous cup) cup) flour, flour,aapineh ofsalt, salt,22 yolks and
pint,3 egg yolks egg 1cup) and It lj dl. dl. $ pint, cup) warm wann milk. milk.
Mix. Mix. Add Add 22 beaten egg beaten egg whites. whites. Cover Cover and and
leave leave to to rise rise for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Third Third method.
method. Put Put into into aa bowl bowl 250 250 g. (9 o2.,2| cups) buckwheat (1 oz.)
buckwheat flour yeast. Moisten with 2i flour and and 25 25 g. oz.) yeast. 2+ dl.
e.0 (scant -! pint, generous generous cup) (seant cup) warm warm water. water.
Leave Leave to toferment ferment in in * pint, place for a a cool cool place for 4
4 hours. hours. Add Add 125 125 g. E.(4i oz., generous cup) fine white flour, a
pinch of of salt, salt, 2 2 egg l| dl. dl. $ pint, 3 cup) wann cream. egg yolks and
I-! Mix, Mix, add add 2 2 firmly firmly beaten beaten egg egg whites and half their
their volume volume of of whipped whipped cream, cream, and and leave leave to to
rise rise for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Blinis maiz.e(corn) (corn) Bour.
Bliniscan rice Bour can also also be made of of rice flour or or maize be made
flour. In France, blinis Cooking of of blinis. blinis.In are eooked cooked in in
the blinis are thesame same wayas pancakes @rApes). way as ordinary pancakes In In
Russia, cast-iron frying pans, Russia, blinisare are fried in special cast-iron
divided 'nests', in divided into up to to 6 6 small, small, inclivj.dual individual
in which up into Bat flat'nests', pancakes pancakes can They are very hot, hot, are
served can be be cooked cooked at at once. once. They served very with cream,
chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs in in with melted melted butter,
butter, sour sour cream, melted herring, melted butter, caviare, smoked smoked
salmon, salmon, ki/ki, kilki,salted sn'lted herring, and and other other
similar'fishy' foods. foods. Blinis Arx CAROTTES Dice 1 I tabletableBlinis with
wift carrots. carrots. BLINIS BLINIS AUX cARorrrS -- Dice spoon pour the the blini
blini mixture mixture and pour spoon carrots, carrots, cook cook in in butter
butter and over. over. Continue Continue as as usual. usual. Blinis V1AR - Prepare
the AU CA the blinis blinis Blinis witb wiih caviare. caviare. BLINIS BLINIs AU
cAvIAR according methods described described above. to one one of of the the
methods according to Serve piping hot Serve piping hot with with fresh fresh
caviare, caviare, melted melted butter butter and and sour sour eream. cream.
Blinis putting the BLTNIs AUX Ar.x OEUFS oruFs -- Before Before putting Btinis witb
with eggs. eggs. BLINIS the blini blini mixture mnture into into a a buttered
buttered frying pan, sprinkle sprinkle into into the the pan pan 1 I tablespoon
eggs. tablespoon chopped chopped hard-boiled eggs. Cook blinis in in the the usual
usual way. way. Cook the the blinis Litbuanian LIVoNTENS -- Mix Mix in BLrMs
LlVONŒNS a bowl bowl 4 4 in a Lithuanirn blinis. blinis. BLlNlS mblespoons (* cup)
tablespoons (1 flour and and 4 4 whole whole eggs. Add, Add, !ittle little by by
cup) Bour !iule, glasses of pinch of little, 4 4 glasses milk, a of salt salt and a
a pinch sugar. of sugar. of milk, a pinch of Add (* cup) 4 mblespoons tablespoons
(t cup) Add 4 4 beaten beaten egg egg whites and and 4 whipped eream. cream. Cook n
the Cook the the blinis blinis in the usual usual way. way. Brioches, garnished.
BRJOCHES Briocheg gamished. BRrocHEs GARNIES cARNIES -- These These brioches
brioches must be very small. They are are often often served served as as patties.
be very small. They Use the Bake the unsweetened brioche brioche dough. Bake
ordinary unsweetened Use ordinary brioches fluted moulds moulds in in the the shape
shape of of Brioches Brioches brioches in in very very small small fiuted à d tête
tAte (see BRIOCHE). BRIOCHE). Leave heads, keeping to Leave them to cool. cool.
Remove Remove the the heads, keeping them them to the,m to serve not to to serve as
as lids. lids. Scoop out out the the brioches, brioches, mking taking eare care not
break few minutes minutes in in the the oven the break them. them. Dry Dry them for
for a a few with the oven with door open. open. Small Brioches à d tête ftte may
may be be filled filled with with the the same same ininSmall Brioches gredients
(see below). garnished, gredients as as gwen for for PaUies Patties (see below).
When When garnished, put put the put in the brioches and put in the the oven oven
for for a a the heads back on on the brioches and few seconds. seconds. Small
garnished brioches as an can be an accompaniSmall garnished brioches can be used
usod as accompaniment for ment for large various kinds. kinds. large dishes dishes
of of various Brocbett41:S - Prepare brochettes brochettes according according to
to the the recipes Brochettes given (See SKEWER, given in in their order. (See
SKEWER, BEEF, their alphabetical order.

ct
HORS-D'ŒUVRE HORS.D'(EUVRE
mutton on Fil/el of beef on on skewers, MUTION, Fillets Fille/s of mullon skewers,
MUTTON, Fillet
skewers.) Brochel/es served as an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre should be very much
Brochettes en/rée. smaller than those prepared for an entrie.

Brocbettes de de Parme - Another Another name for for Attereaux AUereaux of

Brochettes (See Attereanx Allereaux above.) above.) Parmesan. (Se BRocHETTES DE DE
RIs RIS D'AGNEAU. D'AGNEAU, Brochettes of sweetbreads. BROCHETTES cut calf
sweetbreads, sweetbreads, eut RIS DE vEAU VEAU - Parboil Parboil or braise braise
lamb lamb or calf RIs them on metal metal skewers, alternating altemating into
square square pieces. Put thern and, with rectangles rectangles of lean lean
blanched bacon or lean Jean ham ham and, with if desired, desired, with cooked,
sliced mushrooms. brochelles with melted butter, butter, roll in fine breadBrush
the brochettes a moderate heat. crumbs and grill under a (smrll gamished Caissettes
(small gamisbed cases) receptCaissettes - Round or oval receptacles made of
ovenproof china, china, glass or metal, filled with

(q.v.), salpicons (q.v.) or ragofits (q.v.), salpicons (q.v.) ragoûts or similar

similar ingredients. same Recipes for these are given elsewhere; me as elsewhere;
they are the sa barquettes, patties, pies, tartlets, etc. for barquelles, According
to the nature of the garnish used used the cases are sprinkled with breadcrumbs
sprinkJed breadcrum bs or grated cheese and put under grill. Alternatively, they
the sprinkled with the grill. they may may be be sprinkled with welldrained fried
breadcrumbs, and put in in the the oyen. A third drained fried and put oven. A
third possibility decorate the cases with trufles, trumes, mushrooms, possibility
is to decorate etc. garnished toast. Canapds or or gamisbed cANArfs, TOASTS ro^Lsrs
GARNIS cARNIS Canapés toast. CANAPÉS, Cut the canapés canapis from a a sandwich
loaf, having first removed the crust. Shape them, as required, into squares,
rectangles, rectangles, ovals or rounds. Toast the slices on both sides, butter
them or spread with whatever ingredient is indicated in the chosen (q.v.), pur6es,
salpicon salpicon (q.v,), recipe eggs, purées, recipe (forcemeat, scrambled eggs,
etc.). Garnish Garnish the the canapés canapis as as indicated, sprinkle with with
freshly grated breadcrumbs, fried grated cheese, or grated grated fried breadcrumbs
or to the garnish used, and according to them in and grill, or brown thern in oven.
Arrange Arrange on a paper doyley or napkin napkin and decorate the oyen. with
green curly parsley. for canapés from those canapis are are numerous. Apart from
Garnishes for grven in you can recipes which in the which follow, follow, you giveo
the recipes use a11 can use all those indicated indicatod in the section on Croûtes
section on Crofrtes (see below), below). Canapds with bloater. bloater. CANAPÉS
c.lN.lpfs AU BLoATm, Cut sandCanapés AU BLOATER - Cut wich Joaf bloater pur6e,
purée, to loaf ioto into rounds and and toast. Heap the bloater (se SAUCE) and have
been which Bichamel Béchamel sauce which sauce (see and butter have added, added,
on the rounds, and and heat in the the oven. Alternatively, garnish the canapés
canapis as indicated above, but grated Parmesan sprinkle them with grated Parmesan
cheese and brown them in the oven. Canapes with bard-boiled hard-boiled eggs.
CANAPÉS c.lNlpfs Ar,rx IEUFS DURSDrJRs Canapés AUX ŒUFS hard-boiled eggs blended
blended with Bichamel Spread a salpicon of hard-boiled Béchamel (see SAUCE), on
sauce (see on rectangular pieces of toast. toast. Coyer Cover sauce with two hard-
boiled egg. Fry breade~ch each piece with two rounds of hard-boiled egg. Fry crumbs
in and in butter, drain weil, well, sprinkle sprinkle on on the the canapés, cmmbs
canapis, and brown lightly ligbtly in the oven. Canapes \\llh with scrambled
scrambled eggs. Atrx ŒUFS truls Canapés egEs. CANAPÉS clNlpfs AUX of toast with
scrambled scrambled eggs BROU1LLÉS BRouILLfs Cover rounds rounds of toast with -
Coyer grated Pannesan Parmesan chee cheese arranged in se in a a dome. dome.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated and and brown in the oyen. oven. la fiorcntine
florentine sandwich bread. Canapés bread. Canap€s à i la - Toast rounds of sandwich
a sieve, sieve. Blend Parboil sorne some spinach, spinach, drain and rub through
through a Parboil (se SAUCE) SAUCE) and and spread on the the with thick Béchamel
Bichamel sauce sauce (see grated Pannesan and brown in in toast. with grated
Parmesan cheese and toast. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the oyen. oven. AU FROMAGE
FRoMAGE DE Canapés cheese. CANAPÉS clNnpfs AU Canrp€s with with Gruyère Gnybre
cheese, Bi c hame I of thick Béchamel GRUYÈRE cRUytRB the canapés canapis with a
layer of - Spread the (se SAUCE) to grated Gruyère and a a Gruyire cheese and sauce
sauce (see to which grated pinch of cayenne have been been added. added. Scatter
Scatter diced diced Gmyere Gruydre pinch cayenne have and brown in in the the oyen.
oven. chee se over the cheese the canapés canapis and Canapés made in in the the
same same way way with with Cheshire, Cheshire, Canapis can can be be made Edam or
Pannesan Parmesan cheese.
472

Canapés bam. cANApEs CANAPÉS AU JAMBoN JAMBON - Cut Cut a sandwich Canapes with
han. and toast. loaf Joar into oval-shaped slices and toast. Make a a salpicon
salpicon of York or Prague Prague ham and blend it il with a concentrated Demiglace
sauce SAUCE) sauce (see SA UCE) to which which chopped parsley parsley has has been
added. Spread Spread the salpicon salpicon on the toast. each canapé. canapi. Fry
slices of ham in butter and put one on on each Sprinkle with breadcrumbs fried in
butter. Sprinkle butter, sudines. c,tNApfs Canapés with wilh sardines. CANAPÉS AIx
AUX SARDINES - Toast Canap6s sardines. rectangular rectangular pieces of bread.
Cover Coyer with fillets fillets of sardines. a napkin. Heat for a few moments in
the oven. Arrange Arrange on a Altnernatively, make sardines in oil, mixed make a
puree purée of of sardines mixed with add a a little hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs.
eggs. Rub Rub through through a a sieve sieve and and add !ittle English Spread on
the canapés canapds and arrange fillets English mustard. Spread fil lets sardines
in oil of sardines oil on top. Sprinkle with Sprinkle with breadcrumbs which have
have been been fried in butter and drained well. weil. Put in the oven for a few
minutes. Season a pinch of cayenne serve. with a cayenne and serve. lobster or
salpicon of lobster Canape Victoria Canapés a salpicon or spiny - Make a all cut
into very small dice, lobster, trufres tmffies and mushrooms, ail (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) and sauce (see blended with blended with thick thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce
(see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound finished off with Crayfish butter bul/er
(see butters). lrnl/ers). with this this sa/pican, salpicon. Fry Spread toast
Spread toast with Fry breadcrumbs breadcrumbs in sprinkle on the canapés. canapis.
Put them in butter, drain well, weil, and sprinkle
the oven for a few moments. can be Cannelon$ gamished. Cannelons, gamisIH~d.
cANNELoNs CANNELONS cARNIS GARNIS - These can as cornets. cornets. of rectangular
rectangular shape or made as Rectangular. Roll out puff pastry in rectangles
rectangles measuring (l| inches) 4 cm. (1 inches) by l0 10 cm. (4 inches). inches),
of cold forcing-bag with a plain nozzle make make a line of Using a forcing-bag
forcemeat or other mixture in the middle of the rectangles. rectangles. forcerneat
cover with all around the forcemeat, and coyer Moisten the border Moisten border aU
with pastry. Brush over with with egg egg and another rectangle of puff another
puff pastry. bake in the oven. Cut the dough into straight ribbons Cornets. Cut
Cornets. the dough into straight ribbons and and roll roll around special
special'funnels' around 'funnels' (see CORNETS). and lill fill When the cornets are
baked, take the funnels out and pur6e, fish or shellfish (q.v.), meat purée, the
cornets. U* Use salpicons (q,v.), pur6e, purées should be rather thick. thick,
purée, etc., fillings. The pur6es as fillings. etc., as patties, cassogarnishes
given given for for barque/les, All barquettes, patties, the garnishes Ali the
cannelons. lettes, and and similar dishes can can be be used lelles, used for
canne/ons, glass, metal porcelain conor porcelain Individual glass, Casmlettes
Cassolettes metal or -. lndividual arc for cassolelles cassolettes are The most
most usual tainers. usual ingredients ingredients for tainers. The (q.v.),
salpicons (q,v.) (q.v.) and pur6es, ragolÎts ragofits (q.v.), and similar
preparapurées, tions. with the border. Fil! Fill the cassolelles cassolettes with
Cassolettes without a border. Cassolelles preparation indicated. indicated.
preparation Sprinkle wilh with breadcrumbs fried in butter and drained, or,
Sprinkle grated cheese. Brown Brown for a a according to the recipe used, with
grated few moments in the oyen. oven. few potato.Ufi of Duchess Duchess pO/aIO,
border of Cassolettes wilh with a border Casso/elles Use a forcing(see potato (see
prpe a thin Duchess potato border of of Duchess and pipe thin border bag bag and
round the edge edge of the cassolelle, cassolette. POTATOES) round with breadFill
with the the preparation indicated, sprinkle with Fill grated cheese, frid in in
butter and and drained, or with grated cmmbs crumbs fried and brown in the the
oyen, oven. and Prepare the Duchess potato. Cassolettes topped topped with with
Duchess Casso/elles pOla/o. Prepare Fill as as described described recipe. Fil!
cassolettes as as indicated in the above recipc. casso/el/es potato (see POTA
Duchess potGlO POTATOES) a layer of Duchess and coyer cover with a and TOES)
pressing down to seal in the the contents. contents. Brush down on on the edges to
seal in the edges pressing the oven. the top with egg egg and and brown brown in
the and covered wilh with puff Cassolettes with with border and Casso/elles puff
pasrry. pas/ry. Put rim of the casso/elles. cassolettes. narrow band of puffpastry
round the rinI a narrow preparation, which should be co cold Fill them with the
desired preparation, Id lukewarm. or lukewarm. pastry. Press a round the
cassolelles cassolettes with with a Cover the Cover round of puff pastry, flower-
shaped ornawell onto with flower-shaped onto the the border. border. Decorate with
weil puff pastry. made from from puff motifs made ments or or other other motifs
ments pastry. Brush with

gondola, a gondola. pAt6 served shaped like a a Ilapk.in napkin shaped potato
cris.ps, served in a fennel, pâté Hors d'œuvre: crisps, feltnel. d'cuvre: potalo (M
oustache. PhOL Nicolas) prawn cocktail Phot. Nicolas) cocktail (Moustache. avocado,
avocado, prawn
Yi
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
eggand and bake in the bakein the oyen ovenfor for 10 l0 to 12minutes. to 12
minutes. egg Cassolettesambassadriceambassadrice- Make Make aalid lidand
andaaborder border for for the the Cassolettes cassolettes, using lusing Duchess
potatoes (see Duchess potatoes (seePOT POTATOES). Fill cassolettes, A TOES). Fill
with aa ragoût ragofrt of of chicken chicken Iivers. livers. Put Put in in the
theoyen oven for for aa few few with minutes. minutes. Cassolettes bouquetière
burquetilre -- Make Make the the border border of of the the cassocassoCassolettes
lettes with wth Duchess potatoes (see Duchess potatoes (see POT POTATOES). Fill
with with aa A TOES). Fill lettes macidoine of of vegetables vegetables with with
cream. cream. macédoine Put in in the the aven. oven. When When removed removed
from from the put 1 the oyen oven put I Put tablespoon asparagus asparagus tips
tips cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and aa little little knob knob
tablespoon of cauliBower, cauliflower, on each cassolette. cassolette. oneach of
Cassolettes à (with meat) i la la floreutine florentine (with IJse Duchess meat) --
Use Duchess Cassolettes potatoes (s@ POTATOES) to make the top of the cassolettes .
(see POT ATOES) to make the top of the cassolettes. potatoes Put 1 I tablespoon
tablespoon spinach spinach leaves leaves cooked cooked in in butter butter at at
the the Put bottom. Put Put 1 I tablespoon tablespoon salpicon salpicon of of
chicken chicken blended blended with with bottom. Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE) sauce
(see SAUCE) on on the the spinach. spinach. Brown Brown in in the the Velouté oven.
oyen. gauloise -- Use Cassolettes à la gauloise i la potatoes (see (see Use Duchess
Duchess potatoes Cassolettes POTATOES) to make make the the border border of of the
the cassolettes. cassolettes. Fill Fill POT A TOES) to with a a salpicon salpicon
of of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, truffles truffies and and
with mushrooms blended blended with (se SAUCE). with Velouté Veloutd sauce sauce
(see SAUCE). mushrooms Brown in in the the oyen. oven. Wh When removed from pan put
put a from the the pan a Brown en removed cock's comb comb fried fried à d la la
Villeroi Villeroi on on each each cassolette. cassolette. cock's Cassolettes with
with lobster lobster or or spiny spiny lobster. lobster. CASSOLETTES cAssoLETTEs AU
AU Cassolettes HoMARD, A LA r,a LANGOUSTE L.lr.rcousrE -- Make Make the the border
border or or top top of of HOMARD, À whatever preparation preparation you you
desire. desire. Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon of of whatever lobster or
spiny spiny lobs lobster blended with with cream cream and and finished finished
off off lobs ter or ter blended with Cray.fish (see BUTTER, Crayfish butter butter
(see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). with Brown in in the the oyen.
oven. Brown Cassolettes marquise marquise Make the the border puff pastry. border
of pastry. of puff - Make Cassolettes Fill with with Cray.fish Crayfish tail
rago,frt à tail ragoût (see CRA d la la Nantua Nantua (see CRAyFISH) YFISH) Fill to
which which diced diced truffies trufres and and mushrooms mushrooms have have been
been added. added. to Bake in in the the oyen. oven. Bake Cassolettes Régence
Regence Make a a border border of of Duchess Duchess potatoes - Make Cassolettes
potatoes (see POTATOES). Fill with a salpicon of breast of chicken (see POTA TOES).
FiIl with a salpicon of breast of chicken and trufres cooked in Velouté Velouti
sauce (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). and truffies cooked in Bake in oven. Put large
slice of truffie slice of truffie on on each each Bake in the the oven. Put a a
large cassolette the oven, oven, and cassolette when when removed removed from from
the and cover cover with with a a small bouquet cooked in small bouquet of of
asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked in butter. butter. (without Cassolettes Sagan
a border) salpicon - Fill Cassolettes Sagan (without a border) FiII with with a a
salpicon of cookd n Velouti sauce of truffies truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms
cooked in Velouté sauce (s* (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Parmesan cheese. SAUCE). Sprinkle
with with grated grated Parmesan chee se. Brown Brown in in the each cassolette
very the oven. oven. When Wben taken taken out, out, put put on on each cassolette
a a very small small slice slice of of calf's calf's brain brain saut6od sautéed in
in butter. butter. Cassolettes Cassolettes of of sweetbread. sweetbread.
clssor,rrrEs CASSOLEITES DE DE Rrs RIS D'AcNEAU, D'AGNEAU, RIs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU
- These These can can have have a a border border or or be be served served plain.
plain. Fill FiII with with a a salpicon salpicon of of sweetbread sweetbread
blended blended with with Velouti Velouté (see sauce SAUCE) to which which trufres
truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms can can be be sauce (see SAUCE) to added,
added, if if desired. desired. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. Cassolettes à la la
v6nitienne vénitienne (without (without a a border) border) - Line Line the the
Cassolettes i bottom of the bottom of the cassolettes cassolettes with with diced
diced macaroni macaroni d à I'italienne. l'italienne. Add Add I 1 tablespoon
tablespoon ragofrt ragoût of of sweetbreads, sweetbreads, trufles truffies and and
mushmushrooms, rooms, if if desired. desired. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried
fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. (U.S.
Choux prfrs) cream paste Choux (U.S. cream puffs) - Using Using Ordinary Ordinary
chou chou paste (see (see DOUGH), DOUGH), make make small smalt choux choux (cream
(cream puffs), puffs) , the the size size of of pigeons'eggs. pigeons' eggs. After
After the the choux choux are are cooked, cooked, split split the the sides sides
open open and and fill fill with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is
is indicatod indicated in in the the recipe recipe used. used. Heat Heat for for a
a few few moments moments in in the the oven. oven. If If the the choux choux are
are small smaIl enough enough they they can can be be used used as as a a garnish
garnish for for large large dishes, dishes, or or served served as as savouries.
savouries. Choux Choux can can be filled preparations with all be filled with ail
the the preparations recommended recommended for for barbarquettes, tartlets and
and other other similar similar dishes. dishes. quettes, cassolettes, cassolettes,
tartlets Choux Choux with with cheese. cheese. cHotx CHOUX AU AU FRoMAcE FROMAGE -
Filld Filled with with a a cream cream made made with with Cheshire, Cheshire,
Gruydre Gruyère or or Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Choux Choux ià la la
maraichire maraïchère - Filled Filled with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.)
of of 473 473
Vegetables : radishes, carrots, celery, artichokes Vegetables: radishes, carrots,
celery, artichokes and pumpkin with cooking pan and saucepans ( phot. Nicolas) and
pumpkin with cooking pan and saucepans (Phol. Nicolas)

carrots, leeks, leeks, celery celery -- ail all cooked cooked in inbutter butter
and and blended blended with with carrots, (see SA thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce
sauce (see SAUCE). UCE). thick Choux àI la la Nantua Nantua -- Filled pur6e of
Filld with with aa purée of crayfish crayfish to Choux to whichchopped chopped
truffles trufres have havebeen been added. added. which Choux àI la la royale
royale -- Filled puree of Filled with with aa purée of truffies trufles with Choux
with cream. cream. Chonx ài la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Filled pur6e of
Filled with with aa purée game of game Choux blended with (see SA with Demi-glace
Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based on on conconblended UCE) based game stock.
centrated game stock. centrated la strasbourgeoise Choux ài la strasburrgeoise --
Filled Filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of of foie Choux foie gras and and
truffies truffies blended blended with with concentrated concentrated Demi-glace
Demi-glace gras (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce Choux à i la h toulousaine
toulousaine -- Filled Filld with with a a salpicon salpicon of of sweetsweetChoux
breads, cocks' cocks'combs and cocks' cocks'kidneys, mushrooms and and breads,
combs and kidneys, mushroùms trufles blended (see SAUCE). blended with Allemande
sauce with Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). truffies Choux au au vert-pré vert-pr6 --
FiIled Filled with puree of green beans, with a a purée of green beans, Choux green
peas peas and and asparagus asparagus tips tips blended blended with with cream.
cream. green (Polish cookery) Cierniki (Polish cookery) -- Mix Mix in g. (8 (8 oz.)
in a a terrine terrine 225 225 g. oz.) Cierniki pressed white g. (4 (4 oz., white
cheese, cheese, 100 100 g. oz., 1 I cup) cup) sifted g. pressed sifted flour,
flour, 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz., i* cup) cup) melted melted butter butter and and 3 3
eggs. eggs. Season Season with with salt, sali, (2 pepper and grated nutmeg. and
grated nutmeg. Blend Blend these these ingredients ingredients with with a pepper a
spatula and gradually work and gradually work in in a g. (3 a further further 75 75
g. oz., -i spatula cup) Q oz., I cup) flour. flour. Experiment with with poaching 1
I teaspoon teaspoon of of this this mixture mixture in in Experiment boiling water.
water. If If it it is is not not thick thick enough enough add add a a little
little more more boiling flour, if if it is too it is too thick, thick, lighten
lighten it it with with 1 I or or 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons Bour, cream. Sprinkle
flour flour on on a a table and and roll roll the the mixture mixture out out on
Sprinkle on it. galettes 5 (2 inches) Shape into into small galelles 5 cm. cm. (2
inches) in in diameter and Shape I cm. cm. (i inch) thick. thick. Poach Poach for
for 15 15 to to 18 18 minutes in in boiling 1 G inch) drain, arrange in in a a pie
dish dish and and pour melted butter water, drain, over them. over Cocks' combs.
combs. CRÊTES cn6res DE DE COQ coe -- For For two two recipes recipes using Cocks'
cocks' combs see se Attereaux Attereaux and and, Fritot in this section. section.
cocks' Cocks'combs Villeroi. CRÊTES cnErrs DE DE COQ coe VILLEROI vrLLERor Cocks'
combs Villeroi. - Drain cocks' combs cooked cooked in in a (q.v.) and a white
court-bouillon (q.v.) cocks' put lukewarm Villeroi (se SAUCE). Villeroi sauce (see
SAUCE). put them in a lukewann Take them out and dip than Take them one by one in
finely grated breadcrumbs. Each cock's comb must be completely covered. Dip in
beaten ed. Dip in beaten egg and again in breadcrumbs. Fryjust a napkin or arrange
Fry just before serving and heap on a in in a nest of straw potatoes. Garnish
Garnish with fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce
sauce or or Pirigueux Périgueux sauce(see sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Sfufrd
Stuffed cocks' cocks' combs combs Villeroi. Villeroi. cnfirBs CRÊTES DE DE ooe COQ
FARcrEs FARCIES vILLERoT VILLEROIChoose very large large cocks'combs. cocks' combs.
Cook, and then th en - Choose open open them on the fleshy fieshy side without
without cutting right right through. through. Stuffthem Stuff them with with a a
little \ittle forcemeat. Complete Complete the the cooking cooking and serying
seJ,'Ving as in the the preceding preceding recipe. recipe. Cocks' Cocks' combs
combs can can be be stuffed stuffed with with forcemeats, forcemeats, or or pur6es
purées of mushrooms, mushrooms, foie foie gras, gras, different different
vegetables, vegetables, duxelles duxelles (q.v.), (q.v.), brunoise brunoise (q.v.),
(q.v.), portugaise portugaise (q.v.), (q.v.), etc. Cocks' Cocks' kidneys. kidneys.
RocNoNs ROGNONS DE DE coe COQ - Cook kidneys kidneys in in Court-bouillon Court-
bouillon I 1 (see (see COURT-BOUILLOI$. COURT-BOUILLON). Then follow follow any any
of of the the recipes recipes for for cocks' cocks' combs combs in in this this
section. section. Colombines Colombines - Line Line buttered buttered tartlet
tartlet tins tins with with a a semolina semolina mixture mixture flavoured
flavoured with with Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Fill Fill the the tins tins
with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.), (q.v.), a a pur6e purée or or any any other
other mixture mixture generally generally used used for for barquettes, barquettes,
patties patties and and similar similar dishes. dishes. Cover Cover with with a a
thin thin layer layer of of semolina. semoIina. Dip Dip the the tins tins into into
wann warrn water water and and lurn Jurn out out the the tartlets. tartlets. Dip
Dip them them in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry. deep-
fry. Serve Serve with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Craquelins - Croquettes
Croquettes prepared prepared with with stuffed stuffed pancakes pancakes
..Craquelins (cr€pes). (crêpes). This This hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre is is better
better known known under under the the name name of ofpannequet. pannequet.
Crayfish. Crayfish. tcnsvrssss ÉCREVISSES - Small Small crayfish, crayfish, cooked
cooked d àh la nage, nage, d à la la mariniire, marinière, or or d à la la
liigeoise, liégeoise, can can be be servod served as as hot hot ftorshorsd'euvre.
Crayfish tails tails are are often often used used as as the the principal
principal d'œuvre. Crayfish
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
ingredient ingredient in in hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre such such as as
fitters, fltters, croquettes, croquettes, stuffed sluffed potatoes, potatoes,
rissoles, rissoles, souff6s soufflés or or tartlets. tartlets.
Cromesquis Cromesquis -See - See Kromeskles Kromeskies in in this this section.
section.

ingredients ingredients and and the Ihe croquettes croquettes served served with
with Tomato Toma/o sauce sauce Diced Diced mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies
truffles can can also also be be added added to 10 the the ingredients ingredients
of of fish fish croquettes. croquettes. Foie Foie gras gras croquettes croquettes t
à ta la P6rigueux. Périgueux. cRoQUETTES CRùQUETI"ES DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS A À
r,c, LA pfntcurttx PÉRIGUEUX - Salpicon Salpicon of of foie foie gras gras and and
truffies, trumes, blended blended with with a a very very strong strong Demi'glace
Demi-glace sauce sauce flavoured flavoured with with Madeira, Madeira, or or with
with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Shape Shape into
into little little flat fiat cakes, cakes, and and serve serve with with Pdrigueux
Périgueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE), Foie Foie gras gras croquettes
croquettes ià la III reine. reine, cRoQUETTES CROQUETfES DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAs GRAS
A À LA LA REINE REINE - Salpicon Salpicon of of foie foie gras, gras, bound bound
with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Shape Shape
into into little little flat fiat cakes cakes and and serve serve with SuprAme
Suprême sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), adding adding truffies' Iruffies.
Game Game croquettes. cRoQUETTEs CROQUETTES DE DE cIBIER GIBIER - Salpicon Salpicon
of of game garne left-overs, left-overs, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffieq
truffles, blended blended with witb very very concentrated concentrated Demi-glace
Demi-glace sauce sauce (sa (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with demi-glace
demi-glace sauce sauce basd based on on concentrated concenlraled game game stock.
stock. On the the menu, name name the the croquettes croquettes after arter the the
game game which which pheasant $oquettes, is is predominant predominant in in their
their preparation, preparation, e.9., e.g.,pheasan/ croquelles, etc. v o quet t e
s, etc. enison cr venison croquelles, Croquettes Croquettes can can be be prepared
prepared from from a a mixture mixture of of different diffcrenl kinds kinds of of
game. game. I. cnoQuerrEs Lobster croquettes I. CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD -
Salpicon Salpicon of of lobster lobstcr to which diced diced mushrooms mushrooms
and and truffies truffles have have been been SAUCE). added, added, blended with
with thick thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). White
wine sauce (see Serve Serve with with White >vine sauce SAUCE). II. cnoQunrrss
Iobster Lobsler croquettes croquettes H. CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Salpicon
Salpicon with Allemande and trufres, of lobster, lobs ter, mushrooms mllshrooms and
truffles, blended blended with Allemande (see (se SAUCE), butter (see with Crayjish
Crayfish buller SAUCE), finished sauce (sec finished with sauce shellfish butter.
butters) or Compound bUllers) BUTIER, Compound BUTTER, or any any shellfish butter.
(see SAUCE). sauce (sec SAUCE). Lobster sauce Serve with with Lobsler TwoDE HoMARD
III. CROQUETI"ES cnoQurrrEs DE Lobster croquettes croquettes m. - TwoLobster HOMARD
or in meat rice cooked cooked in one-third rice lobster, one-third salpicon of of
lobster, thirds thirds salpicon meat or fish stock. fish (se SAUCE) white made with
with white SAUCE) made sauce (sec with Lobs/er Lobster sauce Serve with wine. It is
is shellfish. It preparation appHes to ail all shellfish. applies to of preparation
This method method of This practical way up left-overs. left-overs. way of of using
a practical a using up potato quantity of left-overs, potato of left·overs, not a a
slIfficient sufficient quantity If there is is not If pur6e to the the salpicon.
salpicon. rice can can be be added added to or rice purée or MAcADE MACAcRoQUETTES
DE valentinoise. CROQUETTES Mraroni croquettes croquettes valenllnoise. Macaroni
with blended with of big macaroni, blended Salpicon of big macaroni, VALENTINoIsE
-- Salpicon Rortr VALENTINOISE RONl grated cheese (see SAUCE) cheese which grated
SAUCE) to to which Bicharnel sauce sauce (sec thrck Bechamel truck has been added.
been added. has I cm. cm. in a a layer layer 1 shallow dish dish in a shallow
macaroni on on a Spread the the macaroni Spread (q.v.) à la Nan/ua to d la Nantun
to layer of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) a layer Add a inch) thick. thick. Add <t G
incb) second with a a second have been Cover with been added. truffies have added.
Cover which diced diced truffles which to cool. cool. mixture. Leave Leave to of
the the macaroni macaroni mixture. layer of layer into portions, shape Dip into
into liule little rectangles. rectangles. Dip shape into Divide into into portions,
Divide Nantua sauce sauce and fry. fry. Serve with Nantua Serve with and
breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and egg and egg (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see (made with meat
lefl-overs). left-overs). with varioos various meal Meat croquettes croquettes
(made Meat with meat blended blended with VIANDES -- Salpicon Salpicon of of the
the meat DE VIANDES cRoQuETTEs DE CROQUETTES (see Tomato sauce sauce (see Demi-
glace sauce sauce or ot Toma/o sauce, Demi-glace Allemande sauce, Allemande the
meat meat lIsed. on the used. depending on SAUCE), depending SAUCE), and mushrooms
and finished offwithdiced Thesalpiconcan be fini The salpicon can he shed offwith
diced mushrooms pickled tongue ham. tongue or or ham. smoked or or pickled
truffies, smoked Iruffies, MushMoNTRoucE -- Mush· cRoQUETTEs MONTROUGE croquettes.
CROQUETTES Montrurge croquettes. Montrouge yolks of mixed with with chopped chopped
puree blended of eggs, eggs, mixed with yolks blended with room purée room ham.
lean barn. lean garnish and and should should as gamish mainly used used as are
rnainly These croquettes croquettes are Tbese garnish for the for a a fish fish
dish, dish, the used as as gamish If they they are are used small. If be very very
small. be small like very very small look Iike to look left out. out. Shape Shape
to ham must must be be left chopped ham chopped eggs. eggs, of MouLEs -- Salpicon
Salpicon of DE MOULES cRoQUETTEs DE Mussel croquettes. croquettes CROQUETI"ES
MusseI thick Béchamel ot Bicharnel or blended with with thick and mushrooms,
mushrooms, blended mussels and mussels (s* SAUCE) stock. on fish fish stock. based
on SAUCE) based Allemande sauce sauce (sec Allemande
474 474
(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

macaroni, macaroni, spaghetti, spaghetti, etc. etc. Begin by by poaching poaching

the the pasta pasta in in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, and and Begin
eut into ioto dice. dice. Blend Biend with with thick tbick Bichamel Béchamel sauce
sauce (seo (see SAUCE) SA UCE) cut and add add grated grated cheese. cheese. and
preparation can be be finished finished off with with lean leao ham ham or This
preparation scarlet tongue tongue cut eut into ioto julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.)
strips. Serve Serve with with scarlet Toma/o sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Tomato - Croquettes Croquettes served served as as hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-
d'œuvre are Croquettes of one one or several several preparations preparations cut
into into small dice dice composed of (or, in in certain certa in cases, cases,
chopped). They They are are blended blended with with a a white whi te brown sauce
sauce based based on on meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable stock. or
brown (See CROQUETTES.) CROQUETTES.) Beef Bee! croquettes croquettes I. cnoeusrrEs
CROQUETIES DE DE BoELJF BOEUF - Minced Minced boiled beef, blended blended with
with a a beaten beaten egg; egg; and and choppod chopped parsley. parsley. beef,
according to taste. Shape according Serve with Tomato Toma/o sauce sauce (see (sec
SAUCE). SAUCE), Becf Beer croquettes croquettes II. Il, cnoQUETTEs CROQUETTES DE DE
BoEUF BOEUF - Salpicon of of boiled boiled beef, beef, mushrooms and and lean ham,
ham, blended blended with with concentrated cenlrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce
sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SA UCE), and and shaped according to taste. las le. (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve with Piquant Serve Piquant sauce sauce (see cRoQuETTEs DE
croquettes III. Beef Bee! croquettes m. CROQUETTES DE BoEUF BOEUf - Salpicon
Salpicon of of and lean boiled boiled beef beef and Iean ham, ham, blended blended
with with thick thick Bichamel Béchamel (se SAUCE). Shape Shape according to sauce
(see to taste. taste. Serve with with Tomato Toma/o sauce (see SAUCE). Two-thirds
fV. cRoQLJETTEs Beef croquettes croquettes IV. Beer CROQUETTES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF -
Two-trurds meat stock. one-third rice cooked in meat salpicon of boiled beef, one-
Ihird salpicon Shape according to taste. (se SAUCE). sauce (sec Tomato sauce Serve
with with Tomalo Serve of DE BOEUF BoEUF Salpicon of V. CROQUETI"ES cnoQUETTES DE
croquettes V. Bee! croquettes Beef - Salpicon (pressed beef) with Demi-glace sauce
blended with corned beef (pressed beef) blended or Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see
SAUCE). (se SAUCE). SAUCE) sauce (sec Serve with Tomalo Tomato sauce Many
preparations can Bed croquettes made of left-overs. Many Beef different ingredients
to the the boiled boiled beef different be made made by adding 10 be by adding
vegetables, chopped vegelables, lettuce, celery celery or or olher other chopped
like spinach, spinach, lettuce, like tomato grated cheese, cooked in in butter,
butter, lomato chopped onion onion cooked cheese, chopped grated mirepoix of of
pur6es of dried vegetables, vegetables, mirepoix of fresh fresh and and dried
fondue, fondue, purées etc. in milk, elc. rn bouillon or in soaked in vegetables,
bread bread soaked vegetabIes, D'AMouRnrrEs -CRoQUETTES D'AMOURETTES croquettes.
CROQUETI"ES Bone-marrow croquettes. with mushrooms blended blended with and
mushrooms of bone-marrow bone-marrow and Salpicon of Salpicon (see SAUCE). corks
and and Shape 10 to look like corks SAUCE). Shape Allemande sauce sauce (sec
Allemande (see SAUCE) separately. sauce (sec SAUCE) separately, Tomato sauce serve
sewe Tomalo like Brain croquettes. DE CERVELLE croquettes. CROQUETIES cRoeuETTEs DE
cERVELLE -- Prepare li ke Brain or of shecp's sheep's or a salpicon salpicon of
using a Bone-marrow croquelles croquettes using Bone-marro>v to taste. taste.
according to Shape according calf's calf's brain. brain. Shape also DE MORUE MoRLJE
-- These These are are also cnoeuerrEs DE Cod croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETIES
Cod They are made of of two-thirds cakes. They are made or fish fish cakes. called
fisb fish balls balls or called pieces, into pieces, drained, and and cut cut into
cooked. drained, should be be cooked. cod, which which should cod, (see POTATOES)
potatoes (sec POTATOES) Duchess po/a/oes with onc-third one-third Duchess mixed
with mixed (se SAUCE). Shape SAUCE). Shape sauce (sec thick Béchamel Bdchamel sauce
with thick blended with blended into balls. balls. into (se SAUCE). sauce (sec
SAUCE). Tomato sauce Serve with with Toma/o Serve Pur6e of of cnnssoNNrine
cnoQUETTES CRESSONNiÈRE Cress croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES Cress - Purée (see
POTATOES) potatoes (sec POTATOES) Duchess polaloes to which which Duchess
watercress to watercress (see SAUCE) SAUCE) Velouti sauce sauce (sec Blend with
with Velouté added. Blend have been been added. have to tasle. taste. herbs. Shape
Shape according according to mixed herbs. flavoured wilh with mixed flavoured A
salpicon salpicon DE POlSSONS PolssoNs -- A cRoeLJETTES DE Fish croquettes.
croquettes. CROQUETTES Fish prescribed, blended with blended with of the the fish
fish prescribed, solely of composed solcly composed (see SAUCE). accordSAUCE).
Shape Shape accordAllemande sauce sauce (see or Allemande Bicharnel or Béchamel
fish with Ihe the fish in character character with with a a sauce sauce in and
serve serve with ing to to taste taste and ing for the croquettes. used for the
croquettes. used balls. in the shape of of balls. the shape are usually usually
served served in These croquettes croquettes are These (see POTATOES) to the the be
added added 10 potatoes (see should be POTATOES) should Duchess pola/oes Duchess

of croquettes croquettes made made of of pasta, pasta, Croquets - A A variety va ri

et y of Croquets
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Servewith (seeSAUCE). with White White wine wine sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Serve
Noodle croquettes. croquettcs. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DENOUILLES Nourr,rrs- -
Prepare, Prepare, NoodJe cook and and serve serye as as Macaroni Macaroni
croquettes (see croquettes valentinoise valentinoise (see cook above) using using
ordinary ordinary or or small small noodles noodles instead instead of of macaroni.
macaroni. above) Oyster croquettes croquettes ài la la normande. normrnde.
CROQUETTES cRoer.rETTEs D'HUîTRES o'HulrnEs À A Oyster LA NORMANDE NoRMANDE --
Salpicon poached oysters, Salpicon of of poached oysters, mushrooms mushrooms LA
and trufHes truffies blended blendedwith with Allemande (see SAUCE). Allemande
sauce sauce (see SAUCE). and Shape into into fiat flat cakes cakes and and serve
(see serve with with Normande Normande sauce sauce (see Shape SAUCE). SAUCE).
Servewith (seeSAUCE) withaaCream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE)to towhich parsley
whichparsley Serve andchervil chervilhave havebeen beenadded. added. and
Ricecroquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ rtrz- - Rice Rice
Ricecooked cookedin in meat,fish fishor or vegetable vegetablestock, plainor stock,
plain gratedcheese meat, orwith withgrated cheese added. added. Serve with (se
SAUCE). with Tomato Tomatosauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Serve Ricecroquettes croquettes
ài l'américaine. I'am6ricaine. CROQUETTES Rice cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ Rtz À A
t'.aufnrcArNs - - Rice Ricecooked cookedin infish L'AMÉRICAINE fishstock stockto
towhich whichaasalpicon salpicon of Lobster Lobster àdl'américaine (seeLOBSTER)
l'amiricaine (see LOBSTER)has hasbeen of beenadded. added. Serve with (seSAUCE).
with American Americot sauce sauce (sec Serve SAUCE). Curried riCe rice croquettes.
croquettes. CROQUETTES Curried cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ ntzÀ AL'INDIENNE r'rNDIEr{Ne-
Rice cooked cooked in inaa meat, meat, fish fish or Rice or vegetable
vegetablestock towhich stock to whichis is addedaasalpicon salpicon of of onions,
onions, cooked cooked in added in butter butteruntil untilsoft, soft, and and
blended with with aafew fenr tablespoons tablespo ons of (see SA blended UCE).
ofCurry Currysauce sauce(see SAUCE). Rice croquettes pi6montaise. CROQUETTES
croquettes ài la la piémontaise. Rice cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ Rtz À ALA LA pduoNrarsn
-- Risotto Risotto à piimontaise (see d la Ia piémontaise (see RICE) PIÉMONTAISE
RICE)served served (see SAUCE). with Toma{o Tomafosauce sauce (see SAUCE). with pr
LANGOUSTE Spiny lobster lobstercroquettes. croquettes. CROQUETIES Spiny cRoerJETTFs
DE rA,NcousrE - - As As for Lobster Lobster croquettes (see above) croquettes (sec
above) using for using aa salpicon salpiconof of spiny spiny lobster instead
instead of of lobster. lobster. lobster (various). CROQUETTES Vegetable croquettes
Vegetable croquettes (various). cRoer.JETTFs DE os LÉGUMESrfculms Salpicon of of
cooked cooked vegetable, Salpicon vegetable, blended blended with with Béchamel
Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see Serve with Serve with Tomato Tomato
sauce (see SAUCE). sauce or or Cream Creun sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Vegetable
croquettes croquettes are Vegetable are usually usually made made from from
artichoke artichoke hearts, carrots, hearts, carrots, celeriac celeriac or or
French French beans. beans. They They can can also also be be prepared using
prepared using a a macédoine macidoine of of vegetables. vegetables. Croquettes
Croquettes à i la la viennoise viennoi* -- Salpicon Salpicon of of lamb lamb
sweetreads, sweetreads, lean ham, ham, mushrooms lean mushrooms and and chopped
chopped onions, onions, cooked cooked in in butter untiJ butter until soft, soft,
and (see and blended blended with with thick thick Velouté Velouti sauce sauce (see
SAUCE) SAUCE) seasoned paprika. Shape seasoned with with paprika. Shape into into
small small rectrectangles, angles, and and fry. fry. Arrange Arrange in garnish
the in a a circle circle and and garnish the centre centre with a with a heap heap
of of fried fried onions. onions. Serve Serve with (se SAUCE) with Tomato Tomato
sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Croustades
Croustades -- Small, Small, filled filled croustades, croustades, made made of
Duchess of Duchess potatoes (sec (see POTATOES), potatoes POTATOES), rice, rice,
semolina semolina or paste or Lining Lining paste (see DOUGH) are (see are used
used as as hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Croustades Croustades of potatoes. Make of
duchess duchess potatoes. Make a a very very thick thick duchess duchess potato
mixture. mixture. Roll out out on on a a fioured floured table table to to a a
thickness thickness of of (lj inches). about cm. (H about 3! 31cm. Cut piees about
Cut out out pieces (2 inches) about 5 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) across, across, using
using a a pastry-cutter. Dip pastry-cutter. Dip in egg egg and and breadcrumbs
twice. twice. With pastry-cutter mark With a a smaller smaller pastry-cutter mark
out out the the lid lid of of the the croustade by by pressing on it, Fry on il.
Fry the the croustades. croustades. Remove Remove the the Iids. 1 as lids. Hollow
Hollow out out the the croustades and and fil fill as directed directed in in the
the th the recipe chosen. Coyer Cover wi with the Iids. lids. Serve the the
croustades on a napkin or paper doyley. a napkin Croustades of Prepare as described
above, of rice or senwlina. semolina.Prepareas above, but using rice or semolina
semolina cooked in a a meat, fish or vegetable vegetable stock, bound with egg egg
yolks, and and spread on a a slab slab to to cool. cool. Croustades made pastry).
Line croustad~ (tart pasty).Line made of of lining lining paste (tart croustade mou
Ids with lining paste, following the directions given moulds given for for
barquettes. Bake Bake the pastry blind. barquettes. blind. Garnish as as described
described in the the recipe chosen. Croustades à l'alsacienne Cronstades i
I'alsacienne Make the the croustades croustades using using - Make Duchess potatoes
potatoes (see (see POTATOES). Duchess POTATOES). Fill Fill with with braised
braised croustade a slice sauerkraut. Put on each each croustade slicn of of harn
ham and and a round a round of poached Strasbourg sausage. of sausage. à
I'anversoise l'anversoise - Make Make the Croustades i Croustades the croustades
croustades using using duchess potatoes. Fill with hop shoots shoots with cream.
Croustades i à la la bretonne - Make Make the croustades using using Cronstades the
croustades of Fresh Fresh white white beans beans d à la duchess potatoes.
potatoes. Fill with a a pur6e purée of duchess la bretonne (see BEAN). BEAN).
bretonne à la forestibre forestière - Make Make the croustades using Croustades I
Cronstades the croustades using potatoes. Cut out out with with an an oval oval
pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Fill Fil 1 duchess potatoes. Put on on each each
uoustadc croustade a a morels saut6ed sautéed with with parsley. Put with morels
small rectangle of of blanched lean lean bacon bacon browned browned in in butter.
butter. small 475

Veal croquettes croquettes (Scarnali) (Scarnati) Veal

Oyster croquettes croquettes Victoria. Victoria. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs D'HUîTRES

D'HUITRES Oyster vIcroRIA Salpicon of of lobster, lobster, mushrooms mushrooms and
and truffies VICTORIA - Salpicon blended (ser', SAUCE). with Béchamel Bichamel
sauce (sec SAUCE). Put in the middle middle blended with of each croquette a
poached oyster coated a poached coated with with Allemqnde Allemande of (se, SAUCE)
and sauce and finished finished with (see with Crayfish butter butter (see sauce
(see BUTTER, Compound butters) butters\ or any other shellfish shellfish butter.
BUTTER, Compound flat cakes. Shape into fiat (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve with Lobster
sauce sauce (sec poMMEs DE Potato cRoer.JETTEs DE DE TERRE rERRE Potato croquettes.
croquettes. CROQUETTES DE POMMES Potato Potato croquettes are usually served
without sauce. Potato croquettes Dauphin6 Dauphini croquettes Daupbiné POT ATOES,
Dauphiné - See POTATOES, potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs Potato Potato croquettes
croquettes i à la florentine - cRoeuETrES CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE À ric, LA
TToRENTTNE FLORENTINE - Two-thirds Duchess potatoes DE TERRE TERRE A (see (sec
POTATOES) POTATOES) mixed with one-third one-third spinach cooked in butter. Add 50
g. (2 oz., t cup) grated Parmesan Pannesan cheese for ".rp) each 500 g. (18 oz., 2f
2i cups) potato and spinach mixture. mixture. Potato Potato croquettes croquettes i
à la nigoise. niçoise. cRoeuETTEs CROQUETTES DE poMMEs POMMES DE rERpln TERRE A À
u, LA rugors NIÇOISE - Duchess potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) mixd
mixed with with 2 dl. $ (1 pint, pint, scant seant cup) thick Tomato Tomato fondue
d à la la nigoise niçoise (see (see TOMATO) TOMATO) for each 500 g. (18 oz., 2| 2i
cups) cups) potato. potato. Potato Potato croquettes croquettes with witb Parmesan
Parmesan cheese. cbeese. ca.oeurTTEs CROQUETTES DE DE poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE
TERRE A À r,c, LA pA,RITESANE PARMESANE - Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (ser-,
(sec POTATOES) POTATOES) with with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese.
For For each 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2i cups) cups) potato potato add
add 50 50 g. g. (2 oz.,l oz., cup) cup) cheese. cheese. Cheshire or Gruydre Gruyère
cheese cheese can can also also be be added to to potato Cheshire or croquettes.
croquettes. Poultry CROQUETTES DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Salpicon Salpicon of
PouItry croquettes. croquettes. cRoeuETTEs poultry poultry meat, meat, mushrooms
mushrooms and and truffies, trufHes, btended blended with with Allemande Allemande
sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with Demi-glace Demi-glace
sauce, sauce, Pirigueux Périgueux sauce sauce or or Tomato Tomato sauce (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (sw PrintaniBre Printanière croquettes croquettes - Spring
Spring vegetables vegetables blended blended with with Bicharnel Béchamel sauce
sauce or or Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SAUCE).

t
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
and cut Croustades i à la grecque - Make Make ie rice croustades croustades and
Cranstades Tomalo fonfue d à la grecqrc grecque (see into oval shapes. Fill with
Tomato onionringswhich TOMATO). Put on eachuoustade3 cach crouslade onion rings
wruch have
been been dipped dipped in batter batter and fried. fried.

nutmeg. nutmeg. Sprinkle grated grated cheese cheese and and melted melted butter
butter on on the the
crofltes croûtes and brown. brown. Cro0tes Crootes I ai la Clamart Clamart
(Vegetarian (Vegetarian recipe) redpe) - Garnish Garnish with with a a puree purée
of of fresh fresh peas peas mixed mixed with with fresh [resh cream. cream.
Devilled Devilled cro0tes. c roo tes. cno0rss CROÛTES A À LA onnrr DIABLE - Garnish
Garnish with with a a salpicon salpicon of of York York ham ham and mushrooms
mushrooms blended blended with with a a strong Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (se (see
SAUCE), seasoned with with a a pinch pinch of cayenne. Sprinkle with with fried
breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown. brown. cayenne. Sprinkle Cro0tes Cro(ltes
Dubarry Dl.lbar:ry - Garnish with with florets florets of of cauliflower
caulifiower cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Coat with with Mornay sance sauce
(see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkle with grated cheese, and brown. brown. Cro0tes i
Il la 1a livoniennelh'ontenne - Garnish with a pur6e purêc of of soft roes of of
smoked herring herring with the addition additÎon of Bdchamel Béchamel sauce (see
SAUCE). Put a a little little salpicon of of fillets flllets of of smoked herrings
and aod tart lart apples on each cro0te. croûte. Sprinkle \4'ith with fried friee!
breadcrumbs and brown. Cro{ites Crolltes .à la lyonnaise lyollDaise - Garnish with
with dic€d diced boiled boiled beef saut6ed sautéed in butter and mixed with an
equal quantity of of diced dÎced onions tossed tossed in butter. butter. Sprinkle
with breadcrumbs, l"\"p'~I1'(,"""'tnr,,,, pour butter over the cro0tes, croûtes,
and brown. Pour Pour a little little lemon lemon juice chopped parsley. sprinkle
with chopped or vinegar on them and sprinkle parsley. Muslrroom Musbroom cro0tes.
croOtes. cno0ms CROÛTES Atrx AUX cHAMpIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS Garnish - Garnish small
mushrooms d I'allemandc. with a ragofrt ragoût of srnal1 mushroorns à l'allemande.
small, round, Mushroom cro0tes croOtes are are made made from from small, round,
crusty in the rolls. Scoop out ro11s. Scoop out the the rolls, ro11s, butter butter
them them and and brown brown in oven. The cro0tes croûtes can also be made from
French bread cut thick slices and prepared in the same way as the rolls. Ia crime
sometimes called Tourte de champignons champignons d à la crème is also sometimes
mushroom croûte. crofrte. mushroom Iwith coarsely chopped I la paysanne Cro0tes li
Croûtes paysan.ne 1 - Garnish with grated until soft. Spnnkle Sprinkle with in
butter until vegetables cooked in ve~:etêlbl,es with grated cheese and brown.
brown. stock-pot vegetr - Garnish Garnish with "',",T'v_nn. Cro0tes à la paysanne
Crootes pa~rSJllme n grated cheese. Finish as in the mixd with grated tables
chopped and rnixed tables previous recipe. provengale - Garoish with Tomato fondue
Garnish with Crofftes la Dr()VenClElle (see FONDUE). Put4 blaclq stoned olives,
each surrounded surrounded olives, each with fried on each each croOte. Sprinkle
with fillet of of anchovy, 00 crotte. Sprinkle by a a fillet fried with chopped
chopped Heat in in the the oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Heat
breadcrumbs. parsley. la reine Garnish with with a a salpicon of poultry, Cro0tes à
la reine - Garnish sance blended with with thiek Veloutd sauce truffies and and
mushrooms, blended truffies in (see SAUCE), sprinkled Brown in sprinklod with with
fried fried breadcrumbs. Brown (see the oven. d gratinforcemeat with à i la
rouellDaÎ.Se roucnnaise Cro0tes il CroCHes - Garnish with (see FORCEMEAn Rouen
made, whenever whenever possible, of Rouen FORCEMEAT) made, (see DUCK). for a a
minute in in the oven. DUCK). Heat for duckling livers (see hollow of of the Fill
the hollow each croûte. croflte. FiU Put a grilled mushroom on eacn (se very thick
Bordelaise sauce sauce (sec thick Bordelaise with a a litÙe little very mushroom
with sAUCE). SAUCE). FoIE DE DE RAIE RAIE Garliver. CROÛTES cro0rss DE DE FOIE witt
skate skate liver. Cro0tes wid:! Croûtes - Garliver cooked a courl-bouillon court-
bouillon cooked in a nish with a a salpicon salpicon of skate Iiver rush (q.v.).
Pour with salt salt and and pepper melted butter, butter, seasoned seasoned with
Pour melted (q.v.). juice, over the salpicon. salpicon Put Put in the lemon juice,
over the and a a squeeze squeEze of of lemon and a dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle
liver 00 on a Arrange the the croûtes cro0tes with the the liver oven. Arrange
oven. juice parsley, squeeze of lemon lemon juice squeeze a a few few drops drops
of chopped parsley, with chopped with pour a on them. them. little brown butter on
before serving serving pour a little over, and and before over, LAITANcgS --
Garnish Garnish roes. CROÛTES cto0rss AUX Atrx LAITANCES witr soft soft mes.
Cro0tes wid:! CroOtes herrings. Sprinkle with fned fried breadbreadroes of fresh
herrings. Sprinkle with with soft soft roes of fresh wÎth put in the the oven.
oven. crumbs and put crumbs ham, smoked or with barn, smoked or la zinga..ra
zingara - Garnish Garnish with Cro0tes à la Croiltes with pickled tongue cut ioto
strips and and blended blended with and truffies trufres eut into strips tongue and
pickled a SAUCE). Put Put a sauce (se SAUCE). Demiglace sauce tomato-flavoured
Demi-glace tomato-flavoured on each each ham and and a mushroom on slie of heated
ham a grilled mushroom round slice of heated round garnished croûte. cro0te.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. garnished Apart from from the the
above above recipes, recipes given for barquettes, cassolettes, etc., etc., can can
be be applied to garnished cro0tes. cm~·SOtel.res, (compound) (U.S. chopettes).
cdrslsrrEs COMcol,lCutlets (compound) Cutlets

Croustades à la marinilre marinière - Make Make the the croustades using using
Croustad€s Lining paste pasle (see DOUGH). Fill Fil! with a ragofrt ragoût of of
Mussels Mussels d à Lining la mariniire marinière (see MUSSEL). MUSSEL). Croustades
li la Monbouge M,.".,....,..."'" - Make the the croustades using using Cronstad€s
FiJI with a a pur6e of mushrooms mushrooms with cream. cream. lining paste. Fill
Croustades à la napolitaine - Make tbe the uoustades croustades using
Croustades ,:.,naç!J~elll d à la napolitaine (se (sre SPAGpaste. Fill FiJI with
Spaghetti lining paste. HETTI). HETTD. Croustades à la nivemaise nivernaise - Make
Make the the croustades tsing using Crqrstodes Duchess Duchess potatoes potalOes
(see (see POTATOES). Fill Fil! with with very very small glazd carrots. each
croustade a glazed carrots. Put Put on on each a bouquet of of very small glazed
onions. Croustades I à la turlousaine toulousaine - Make the croustades tsing using
Crurstades cods' kidneys and forcea ragofrt of cocks' lining paste. Fill with a
meat blended with SuprAme sauce (se (see SAUCE). Put Put on meat each croustade a a
small slice of calf's sweetbread, sweetbread, a slice slîce of eaeh croustade
truffle and and a cock's comb. trufle the croustades Croustades vert-pr€ vert-pré -
Make the crouslades using duchess Cronstades French potatoes. Fill with a a mixture
mixture of equal parts diced French butter. beans, peas and asparagus tips blended
with butter. Carrots croustades.Fillwith Croustades croustades. FiJI with Carrois
Cronstades Vichy - Make à la Vichy (see CARROTS). d la all the for croustades from
al! the special recipes recipes given for Apart from given for according ta to the
recipes be made according also he recipes given they can they can also barquettes
and similar dishes. barEtettes garnished. cRoOrEs cARMEs Cro0tes, gamished.
Croates, CROÛTES GARNIES - Cut slices of stale sandwicb ioto rounds 5 cm. (2
inches) inches) in diameter and sandwich loaf into biscuit-cutter. 2i cm. cm. (l
inch) thick, using a biscuit-cutter. of biscuit-cutter of smaller diameter, mark
the top of With a biscuit-cutter without cutting cutting right through. the croûtes
through. crottes firmly but without hollow out. and bollow until golden brown.
Drain and Fry in in butter uotÎl to the seJected selected recipe. Garnish according
ta butter, frying the the croûtes cro0tes in of frying Alternatively, instead
Ahernatively, instead of in butter, brown in the oven. spread them with butter and
brown a pur6e of breast Garnish with a Cro0tes Il i l'ambassadrice Croates
l'ambassadrice - Garnisb SAUCE). in Velouté Velouti sauce (*e SA of chicken (or
other poultry) in U CE). a smaU small bouquet of mirepoix of of a large slice of
truffie and a Put a each croûte. cro0te. vegetables on each slices of a Atx ANCHOlS
ANcHoIs a cro0tes. CROÛTES cno0rns AUX Anhovy croiltes. Aochory - Cut sUces in Fry
them them in in round round or or rectangular pieces. Fry sandwich loaf in cut ioto
into thin strips. fillets and eut sizding butter. Desalt anchovy flllets the
croûtes. cro0tes. Put these strips on the seasoned frid in in butter butter and and
seasoned Sprinkle with breadcrumbs fried Sprinkle ove,n for a a few moments. a very
hot oven with cayenne. Put in a paper doyley doyley and and garnish or on on a a
paper a napkio napkin or Arrange on on a with fresh parsley. A LA LA MOELU,brcrrs -
Garnish cno0rss À bonemarrow. CROÛTES Cro0tes with boue-marrow. Crolltes poached.
Sprinkle with cut into dice and poached. bone-marrow eut with bone-marrow
concentrated and and thickened shallot. Pour Pour concentrated a little little
choppe{! chopped shallot. a in the the oven. oven. Before and brown brown in on the
the croûtes cro0tes and stock on veal stock veal put 2 each croûte. cro0te. on each
slices of of bone-marrow bone-marrow on 2 or or 3 3 slices serving put parsley.
chopped parsley. with chopped Sprinkle with hardGarnish with with a a salpicon of
hardBrillat-SavarinCro0tes Brillat-Savarin - Garnish Bichamel and truffies blended
blendd with with Béchamel eggs, mushrooms and boiled eggs, (se SAUCE). of anchovy a
criss-cross criss-cross pattem of Make a sauce (see SAUCE). Make sauce with fried
breadcrumbs and Sprinkle with fillets on on each each croûte. crorite. Sprinkle
tillets brown. brown. and salpicon of of lobster and Garnish with with a a salpicon
cardinal CrolÎtes Cro0tes cardinal - Garnish finished Bdchamel sauce sauce (see
SAUCE) fini with Béchamel trufres blended blended with truffles shed (see BUTTER,
Compound butters). Lobster bUller butter (see with with Lobsrer put a ready, put
and brown. brown. When ready, a with breadcrumbs and Sprinkle Sprinkle with
crorite. lobster and and 2 2 slivers of tmffles truffies on on eacn each croûte. of
lobster slivers of slice slice of AU FROMAGE FRoMAcE ~ Garnish Garnish with with a
a cno0res AU cro0tes. CROÛTES Ci1~ Cheese croiltes. paprika and grated and grated
Season with with paprika cheese. Season salpicon of of Gruyère Gruydre cheese.
salpicon

i i

ie

i
-

476 476
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
- Make Make up the mixture mixture given in the chosen croquette croquette recipe.
recipe. Spread a of this Spread a layer layer of this mixture on a a distr" dish,
leave leave to to cool completely, (2 to g. (2 completely, and and divide into
portions of 50 to 75 50 to 75 g. 3 oz.). Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and and shape
into the form of cutlets cutlets (chops). (chops). Deep-fry Deep-fry in clarified
c1arified butter butter or or sauté butter, saute in butter, shape depending on
recipe. Arrange Arrange in the sha pe of a a crown. Add appropriate appropria te
garnish. Put a piece of of raw macaroni, macaroni, decorated decorated with a a
tiny paper frill, on each cutlet. cutlet. Serve with an approappropriate priate
sauce. sauce. These These cutlets, when when made made very very smaU, be usod used
as as a small, can be garnish gamish for large dishes. All AlI the directions
directions given for making making croquettes also apply apply to these cutlets,
which differ from from croquettes only in their shape. They can also be made from
pur6e purée of of poultry, game, fish, etc., dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, and
sauteed sautéed in butter. butter. Cutlets which have pur6es have a purées as as a
ingredient can have a basic ingredient filling compound salpicon salpicon blended
with with very filling of plain or compoufr thick sauce. sauce. Dartob Dartois -
Similar to Allurnettes Allumettes (see above). above). Their difference lies in the
fact ina fa ct that the garnish in a dartois dartois is enclosed enclosed in two
pieces pie ces of puff pastry, pastry, which are not cut into rectangles rectangles
until after after the cooking cooking is finished. fini shed . Roll the puff pastry
pastry out as as for allumettes, cut into bands bands and and put put on on a
moistened moistened baking baking tray. Spread middle of of the Spread the middle
band band with the the chosen chosen flling, filling, which must be cold, col d,
leaving leaving 1 1 on. cm. @inch) (! inch) clear c1ear on on each side. side. Put
on each garnished garni shed band another another band ofpastry of pastry the same
same length and width wid th as the bottom bottom one, but little thicker. thicker.
but a little Moisten the border of the lower lower band with water and press press
the upper upper band on it. Make Make a few light cuts cuts along the edges. Brush
Brush with with egg egg and and score score the the surface lightly. Mark Mark into
divisions divisions to make subsequent subsequent cutting easier. Bake in a a hot
oven oyen for 20 to 25 minutes. Cut into rectanglc rectangles about about 2l 2! cm.
cm. (l (1 inch) long, and arrange arrange on a napkin. All All fillings given given
for alfunettes allumettes can be be used used for dartois. They can also also be be
garnished with salpicons (q.v.) of meat, meat, with salpicons poultry, poultry,
fish, etc., blended with white white or brown stock. Anchovy dartois (Sausse[s).
(Sausselis). DARTors DARTOIS Arx AUX ANcHors ANCHOIS - Fill with Anchovy
Anchovyforcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Decorate Decorate with
anchovy fillets, cover alayer coyer with a layer of of puffpastry puff pastry and
bake in oyen. the oven. Dartois Dartois i à la la florentine Oorentine - Fill with
spinach spinach cooked in butter, blended with Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see
SAUCE) to which grated cheese cheese has has been added. added. Dartois Dartois
Grimod Grimod de la Repilre Reynière - Fill Fil! with fine Pike Pike forcemeat (s@
(see FORCEMEAT) with Crayfish butter butter (see (see BUTBUTTER, Compound Compound
butters). Decorate with crayfish tails and sliced trufres. truffies. Dartois
Laguipibre Laguipière - Fill FiJI with a salpicon (q.v.) of calves' calves'
sweetbreads sweetbreads and and trufles truffies to to which is added a brunoise
brunoise (q.v.) of vegetables, vegetables, blended with thick Velouti Velouté sauce
sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Dartois Ilcullus Lucullus - Fill with a salpicon of
of foie gras gras and and trufles truffies blended blended with with concentrated
Demi-glace sauce sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Dartois Dartois I à la reine reine -
Fill with a salpicon salpicon of of poultry, truffies truffies with Velouti and
mushrooms mushrooms blendod blended with Velouté sauce sauce (w (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Sardinedrrtois. DARTors AUXsARDTNES- Made like Anchovy
Sardinedartois.DARTOISAUXSARDINES-Madelike dnrtois, dartois, using using well-
trimmed well-trimmed fillets fillets of of sardines sardines in oil instead. Tunry
Tunny (tum (tuna fish) dartois dartois. DARrors DARTOIS AU AU rHoN THON - Made like
Anchovy Anchovy dartois, using using finely finely cut-up cut-up slices slices of
of tunny tunny in oil. mignons. oEuFs OEUFS MIGNoNSMIGNONS - Name given to very
small Eggs mignons. egg-shaped egg-shaped cases made made of of Duchess Duchess
potato potato (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). They are dipped dipped in egg and
breadcrumbs, deep-fried, holhollowed lowed out out and filld filled in various
various ways. ways. Make Make a duchess potato potato mixture mixture and leave
until quite cold. cold.
pos6Es POSÉES

portions of 1 Divide into portions Bour and I tablespoon. Roll these in flour shape
to look like eggs. eggs. Roll them in egg and breadcrumbs twice. Fry in hot, deep
fat, drain drain and dry them. a small round opening in the top and through the
Make a opening hollow out the'egg' the 'egg' completely, without breaking breaking
Arrange them on a mixture. Arrange the crust. Fill with the selected mixture. a
potatoes and straw potatoes napkin-covered dish in a nest of napkin-covered dish or
or in a nest of straw garnish with fried parsley. parsley. Eggs mignons mignons
d'Aigrefeuille. MIGNONS D'AIcRED' AIG REEggs oeuFs MIGNoNS d'Aigrefcrille. OEUFS
FEUILLE a puree purée of of poultry poultry finished with Crayfish FEUTLLE - Fill
with a BUTTER, Compound butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Eggs mignons à
I'andalouse. l'andalouse. oEuFs OEUFS MIGNONS À t'lNpltL'ANDALMIGNoNs A Bggs migons
OUSE purée of of foie foie gras to which grated orange orange ousu a pur6e - Fill
with a peel has been been added. added. MIGNoNS BEAUHARBEAUHAREggs mignons mignons
Beauharnais. Beauharnais. OEUFS oEUFs MIGNONS Eggs NAIS - Fill with a purée of
poultry finished with Tarragon NArs a pur6e butters). butter t er s). but t er (see
BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound C o mpound but mignons à la cévenole. OEUFS MIGNONS À t-A
LA CÉVENMIGNoNs A cEveNEggs mignons c6venole. onurs OLE - Fill FiU with Chestnut
purée (see (see CHESTNUTS), mixed otu Chestnut purie with a puree purée of of
onions. MIGNoNs A Eggs mignons mignons à À LA CLAMARToEItFs MIGNONS cLAMART Eggs i
la Clamart. Clamart. OEUFS with cream. cream. Fill with a puree purée offresh of
fresh peas with Fill Curried OEUFS MIGNoNS MIGNONS A À L'tNptewxe L'INDIENNE
Clrrrid eggs egp mignons. oEtJFs - Fill (se with a salpicon of poultry blended with
with Curry sauce (see a salpicon SAUCE). sAUCE). mignons A àla nivernaise. OEUFS
MIGNONS A À I"l LA NwrnNIVERla nivernaise. oEUFs MIcNoNs Eggs mignons NAIsE NAISE -
Fill with a fondue (q.v.) of afondue of diced carrots and onions blended with veal
stock. mignons à la normande. normande. OEUFS À Ll1, LA NonNORMIGNoNS A Eggs
mignons ouurs MIGNONS MANDE - Fill with a a ragoût Normande sauce sauce MANDE
ragofit of oysters with Normande (see SAUCE). mignons à la royale. oEUFs OEUFS
MIGNoNs MIGNONS A A re LA ROYALE novll.r"e Eggs mignom with a French beans beans
and Fill with and asparagus a salpicon of French asparagus tips, blended with
butter. In addition to these fillings, fillings, all ail those given given for
barquettes, barquettes, patties, croustades, etc., can be used for for eggs
mignons. (croquettes) - The French French call very small Fondants (croquettes)
small croquettes fondants. They are made of vegetable quettes vegetable puree purée
or of a cream preparation preparation with cheese. Vegetable Vegetable
puriefondants. purée fondants. Prepare Prepare the pur6e purée of of the selected
The sauce an appropriate sauce to sauce vegetables and and add add an to it. The
should be very thick. The proportion proportion of sauce to vegetable vegetable
puree purée should be one to three. three. Divide small portions Divide the the
puree purée into into smaIJ portions of of about about 50 50 g. (2 oz.). Roll in
flour Bour and coat with egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs as fior like eggs or
pears. for croquettes. Shape to look like Fry just just before serving. Drain, and
arrange on a napkin. napkin. Garnish with fried parsley. Garnish These These
croquettes can can be be made from from any any one one vegetable vegetable puree
purée or a a combination of pur6es. purées. The basic pur6e purée must, however,
always of the whole preparation. preparation. always weigh two-thirds of Cream
fondants fondants with with cheese. cheese. Prepare a a very very thick thick
unsweetened French French pastry pastry cream (see CREAMS). Add grated cheese.
cheese. Spread on a Spread a slab to a thickness of about 1 0 inch). t cm. (l Leave
to cool. Cut Cut into shapes. shapes. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs Leave and finish
as for vegetable vegetable croquettes. croquettes. and Argenteuil fondanb.
fondants. FoNDANTS FONDANTS ARGENTEUTL ARGENTEUIL - Asparagus Argentadl puree purée
with Bicharnel Béchamel sutce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cheese fondants. fondants.
FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE DE FRoMAGES FROMAGES - A A creamv creamy Cheese mixture made
made of of Brie, Camembert, Camembert, Cantal, Cheshirg CheslÙre, cheese mixture
Gruyère or Dutch cheese. cheese. Gruyire Fondants Crecy Crécy - Pur6e Purée of
carrots with Béchamel sauce sauce Fondants with Bichamel (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Fondants with foie gras Taillevent Taillevent. FoNDANTs FONDANTS DE FolE FOIE GRAs
GRAS Fondants TAILLEvENT TAILLEVENT - Puree Purée of off oie gras gras and puree
purée of of the white white meat foie of poultry poultry mixed wfth with Allemande
Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). F'ondants Fondants with with foie foie gras gras
and and trufles. truffles. FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE DE ForE FOIE

477
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
cRAs AUX Aux rRuFFEs of foie and puree GRAS TRUFFES Purée of foie gras and purée of
truffies - Pur6e with a very very concentrated Madeira Madeira sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). DE vIANDES Meat Meat fondants. fondants. FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE VIANDES -
Prepare in in the same way as as Fondants d à Ia la reine (see below) using
different kinds of Blend these with a a sauce sauce of meat meat pur6es. purées.
Blend purées with kinds these purees appropria te to the meat. meal. appropriate
Fondants i à lr la Nantra Nantua Purée of sole with Bichamel Béchamel sauce
Fondants - Puree BUTTER, Compound Compound (see SAUCE) and Crayfish butter (see
BUTTER, butters). roNo,c,Nrrs Fondants with poultry liver Hver or à i la la
rouennaise. FONDANTS Fondants with Ll ROUENNAISE nouer.rNArs Pur6e of poultry DE
ForEs FOIES DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE A À LA DE - Purêe UCE). liver with Rouennaise
sauce (see SA SAUCE). Ia reine reine to which which diced diced Fondants à - Purée
poultry, to Fondrnts I la Pur6e of poultry, have been added, blended mushrooms and
truffies have been added, blended with mushrooms and truffies (se SAUCE). Allemande
saice (see Allemande sauce Fondants Ives' sweetbreads Fondants Vladimir Pur6e of ca
calves' sweetbreads mixed - Purée (see blended with sauce (see with pur6e purée of
truffies, truffies, blended with Allemande sauce SAUCE). sAUCE). la Yorkaise Puree
of ham ham with with Bichamel Fondants Béchamel Fondants à i la - Purée sauce (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Fritots kind of fritter, the commonest ingredients of - A kind
(variety meats), meats), poultry, left-overs offish of fish and which are offal
(variety shellfish. shellfish. FRrrors DE DE BoEr.JF Beef BOEUF beef into fritots.
FRITOTS Cut boiled boiled beef Beef fritots. - Cut (l| inches). Finish pieces of
Finish as for Bone-marrow square pieces of 4 cm. (11 as for fritots (see below).
fritots Bone-marrow fritots. FRITOTS D'AMOURETTES - Cook fritots. FRrrors
D'AMouRETrns Cook the (q.v.). Divide Divide into bone-marrow in in a a white white
court-bouillon (g.v.). bone-marrow pieces, dip them pieces 5 cm. (2 inches) long.
long. Marinate the pieces, garnish with Arrange on a napkin napkin and gamish in
batter and deep-fry. Arrange fried parsley. Serve Serve with Tomato sauce (see
SAUCE). FRITors DE CERVELLE Fritots - FRITOTS sheeps' brains brainscERvELLE Fdtots
of of caJves' calves' and sheeps' D'AGNEAU, VEAU - Cut the brains brains into thick
slices and cook ou vneuD'AcNEAU, DE in a a court-bouillon. Marinate and and finish
as as for Bone-marrow frUots. fritots. FRITors DE oe CRÊTES Fritots of cocks'
combs. FRlTOTS cx.Erns DE COQ coe - Cook the in a a white white court-bouillon.
court-bouillon Marinate and the cocks' combs in Bone-marrow fritots. frUots. finish
as as for Bone-marrow polssoNs DE rrurors DE DE POISSONS DE DESSERTE Fritots of
cooked fish. fish. FRITOTS pieces. Marinate them, dip in Divide the pieces of fish
fish into into pieces. fritots. Bone-marrow fritots. batter and finish as as for
Bone-marrow pIEDs DE DE PIEDS Fritots sheep's foot. foot. FRITOTS rnlrors DE of
calf's calfs or or sheep's Fritots of MOUTON, MouroN, DE VEAU Bone the calf's (or
shecp's) sheep's) foot. foot. Cook - Bone (see COURT-BOUILLON) and in 1 (see in
Court-bouillon I and marifritots. nate. Finish as for Bone-marrow asfor Bone-marrow
fritots. Fritots FRITOTS DE head. rnrrors or TÊTE DE VEAU vEAU Fritots of of calf's
head. rErs DE - Cook the calf's head in tn Court-bouillon I (see COURT-BOUILLON).
Court-bouillon 1 Marinate and finish as Bone-marrow fritots. fritots. as for Bone-
marrow Frogs' legs fritots. FRITors DE DE GRENOUILLES Trim the Frogs' legs fritots.
FRITOTS GRENoUILLES - Trim (q.v.) and put them frogs' and frogs' legs, legs, put
thern in in an an uncooked marinade (q.v.) leave for for for 30 minutes. Dip in in
frying batter and finish fnish as as for Bone-marrow fritots. Bone-marrow fritots.
_ Fritots TNTTOTS DE DE VIANDES DE DE DESSERTE FTitOtS of Of cold COId Meat. MEAI.
FRITOTS Boiled or braised braised left-overs left'overs of lamb, mutton or veal
veal can can be used. Marinate Marinat€ and finish as for for Beeffritots. Beef
fritots. Fritots of caJf's FRITors DE DE FRAISE FRAI$ DE DE VEAU vEAU calf's
mesentery. FRITOTS Cook like Bonemarinate the the mesentery mesentery and and
finish finish like and marinate Cook and marrow fritots. marrow fritots. Mussel
fritots. FRITOTS FRITors DE DE MOULES MouLEs Prepare in the same - Prepare fritots
(see below). way as as Oyster Oyster fritors Oyster FRITors D'HUîTRES o'ttulTnns
Oyster fritots. fritots. FRITOTS Poach the the oysters, - Poach drain, dry,
marinate, and as for for and dip in frying batter. Finish as Bone-marrow fritots.
Bone-marrow fritots. Fritots FRITors DE DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE DE DE DESSERTE Fritob
of cold coH poultry. FRITOTS poached or braised poultry are best. Left-overs of
poached braised poultry besl. Remove pieces. Marinate, aU bones. Cut into very
small regular pieces. all the bones. and and dip dip into into frying frying
batter. Finish as batter. Finish as for for Bone-marrow Bone-marrow fritots.
fritots. 478 478

FRITors DE fritots. FRITOTS DE RIS RIS D'AGNEAU Sweetbread fritots. Braise

Sweetbread D'AGNEAU - Braise lambs' sweetbreads and and marina marinate. Finish as
as for for Bonelambs' sweetbreads te. Finish marrow fritots. marrow fritots.

Vegetable fritots. FRITors Vegetable FRITOTS oE DE r,Ecurrms LÉGUMES - Cut into

quarters or into long long pieces, vegetables such such as as cardoons or salsify
or (which should be cooked in a a white court-bouillon), court-bouillon), or
arti(which (which should chokes and and asparagus asparagus (which should only only
be chokes be blanched). finished in the and dip in frying ba.tter. are finished
Marinate, and balter. They are Bone-marrow fritots. fritots. same way as Bone-
marrow Fritters. BEIcNETS Fritters served served as as hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre or
Fritters. BEIGNETS - Fritters small entrées entries can can be small be made from a
a variety of ingredients and cooked vegetables meat, poultry, fish and - dipped in
batter and fried. and Different kinds of batter can be used. Fritters with frying
batter. Whatever ingredients you use, and then cut into slices, slices, square
square they should be cooked first and pieces or any other shape desired.
ingredient to be left to soak Some recipes require the basic ingredient Sorne juice
or vinegar, chopped lemon juice or vinegar, minutes in in oil, oil, lemon for for
30 30 minutes parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. pieces, one by one, into a a light
When ready to fry, dip the pieces, batter, and deep-fry them in very hot fat until
they are a good fine dry salt and Dry them on a cloth, season season with with fine
colour. Dry on a arrange arrange them in a pile on a dish. pur6es or mince, purées
For fritters fritters incorporating forcemeat, forcemeat, mince, For (q.v.),
prepare the ingredients as directed in various salpicons (q. v.), prepare quite
cold. into small Divide into recipe and and leave leave until cold. Divide the
until quite the recipe portions, shape into round cakes, flat round into balls,
corks, rissoles, fiat flour. Dip in batter and finish as described above. etc. Roll
in fIour.

(,Scarzali) Fritters (Scarnali) Fritters

(souffid fritters). Prepare Chou Fritters paste (soufflé fritters). Prepare with
chou paste Fritters wUh are indi(see DOUGH). Add Add whatever ingredients are paste
1 paste I (see cated in the the recipe chosen. pieces as small as as a as smaU
paste with a Divide the spoon into into pieces a spoon the paste on the the
inhazelnut a walnut, walnut, depending on as a hazelnut or or as as large large as
not boiling, oil. gredients. gredients. Drop into hot, hot, but but not Drop one
one by by one one into well shaped, dry Cook until the the fritters are well a high
high fIame flame until Cook on a paper or golden brown. linen towellmg, towelhng,
and Drain on on paper or linen brown. Drain and golden and serve. sprinkie sprinkle
with fine fine dry salt and Roll anchovy Anchovy fritters I. BEIGNETS ssrcNsrs
D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHoIs - Roll fritters I. fillets into rings and put them on thin
round slices of bread, (1| inches) in diameter. about 4 cm. cm. (lt dip in two by
by two, two, dip Sandwich rounds together, together, two Sandwich these these
rounds serving. just before serving. batter, and fry fryjust layer of fish The fish
be coated with a a layer The rounds rounds of bread can can be coated with

-
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) or or spread spread with Anchovy
Anchovy forcemeat butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound
butters). Alternatively, spread the rounds of bread with a a salpicon salpicon
(q.v.) (q.v.) of of hard-boiled eggs and and fillets fiUets of anchovies blended
blended with Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Finish in the usual
way. In In all ail the recipes recipes bread can be replaced by small savoury
(see SAUCE). sauce SAUCE). Dip Dip the mussels sauce (see mussels in batter and
finish in the

usual manner. manner. pArEs Pasta frittens. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS pe DE PÂTES
Macaroni à d - Prepare Macaroni I'italienne cut into into dice, shell-shaped shell-
shaped l'italienne (see (see MACARONI) MACARONI) cut pasta, or vermicelli. cool.
Divide Divide Ïnto into pasta, noodles or vermicelli. Leave Leave to to cool.

Amhovy fritters fritters II. n. ssrcr.rtrs BEIGNETS D'^q.NcHors D'ANCHOIS - Soak

Soak unleavened in cold cold water and and cut into into small leavenOO bread
(matzos) in circles. Put a little !ittle salpicon made of anchovies and and
hardboiled eggs blended blended with Bbchamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE) on
each each circle. Seal Seal the the fritters fritters like like turnovers,
turnovers, dip dip in in frying batter batter and finish finish as indicated
indicated above. above. Artichoke fritters. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS
D'ARTIcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS - Trim very tender artichokes artichokes and divide into
quarters. Lay them on a dish and dress with with a trickle of oil and a squeeze of
lemon juice. juice. Season Season with with salt and pepper. Leave Leave to
marinate marinate for 30 minutes. minutes. Dip Dip the the artichokes artichokes in
batter and fry them. them. If If they are a little Httle hard, hard, blanch blanch
them lightly lightly before putting them into the marinade. marinade. Beef Beef
fritters fritters I à la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. seIcNsrs BEIGNETS DE DE sosuF
BOEUF A À rA, LA LvoNNAISE LYONNAISE - Make Beef Beef hash d à Ia la lyonnaise
lyonnaise (see (see HASH), HASH), using using beefleft-overs. beef left-overs.
Divide Divide the the mince mince into pieces pieces the size of of a walnut. Dip
in batter batter and and fry. Bemob Bernois fritters. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS BERNoIs
BERNOIS - Cut Gruydre Gruyère cheese cheese into rounds 2f cm. (1 inch) inch) in in
diameter. diameter. Make Make a a thick cm. (l Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see
SAUCE) SAUCE) and add minced minced ham. ham. Coat Coat the the rounds rounds of of
cheese cheese with with this tbis sauce and sandwich together together in pairs.
Finish the the fritter fritter in in the the usual usual manner. pairs. Finish FiS
Fish fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE porssoNs POISSONS - Use left-over
left-over braised braised or or poached poached fish. fish. Cut into into slices or
o-r pieces and marinate marinate for 30 30 minutes minutes in in oil, lemon lemon
juice, juice, chopped parsley, parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip the the
pieces pieces one one by by one one in in batter bat ter and and finish finish in
in the the usual usual manner. manner. Fritters Fritters i à la la florentine.
florentine. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS A À rA LA rronsNrlNs FLORENTINE - PrePrepare pare 225
g. g. (8 (8 oz.,l oz., l cup) cup) spinach spinach pur6e, purée, making making it
it as as dry as possible. possible. Add Add 2 2 dl. dl. $ (~ pint, pint, scant
scant cup) thrck thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and2
and 2 to to 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons grated cheese. cheese. Leave Leave to to
cool, cool, divide divide into into balls balls the the size size of of a a
pigeons'eggs, pigeons' eggs, roll roll in in flour, fiour, dip dip in in batter
batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Herring
fritters fritters I. 1. sntcNErs BEIGNETS DE DE HARENGS HARENGS - Use Use marinated
marinated herrings. herrings. Drain, and and dry on on a a cloth. c1oth. Coat Coat
with with a a thin thin layer layer of Fishforcemeat Fishforcemeat (s@ (see
FORCEMEATS) and and roll roll them them up. up. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and
finish finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Herrinp Herrmgs fritters fritters
II. fi. srrcNErs BEIGNETS DE DE HARENcS HARENGS - Make Make a a salpicon con of of
mannated marina tOO herrings herrings and and Fishforcemeat Fish forcemeat (see
(see FORCEMEATS) MEATS) and and spread spread it it on on pancakes pancakes
(crApes) (crêpes) made made without without salt. Roll Roll up up the the pancakes,
pancakes, cut eut them them in in uniform unifonn pieces, pieces, dip dip in in
salt. batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual way. way.
Luculhrs Lucullus fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS LUcULLUS LUCULLUS - Cut Cut
truffies truffies into into thick thick slices, slices, coat coat with with a a
purbe purée of of foie foie gras gras and and sandwich sandwich together in in
pairs. pairs. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual
usual manmantogether ner. ner. In France France these these fritters fritters are
are also also known known as as Fritters Frit/ers d à la la In pirigourdine.
fritters. BEIcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE vIANDES VIANDES - Use Use braised braised or or
Meat fritters. poached poached left-overs left-overs of of meat. meat. Cut Cut into
into squares, squares, slices slÏces or any any other shape. shape. other Marinate
Marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in oil, oil, lemon lem on juice, chopped
chopped parsley, parsley, salt salt and and pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces
one one by one one in in batter. batter. Finish in in the the usual manner. manner.
Finish Mussel fritters fritters ià la la duxelles. duxeUes. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS os DE
Mourns MOULES A À rA LA Mussel DUXELLES - Cook Cook large mussels mussels in in
white white wine, wine, take take them them out out DtxELLEsoftheir their shells,
shells, dry dry well, cover coyer with with I 1 teaspoon teaspoon thick thick
Duxelles Duxelles of

pancakes. pancakes.

portions of pigeons'eggs. portions the size of pigeons' Dip in batter and finish in
the usual manner. Rice fritters. BErcNErs RJz Cook the rice and mix with BEIGNETS
DE RIZ - Cook Parmesan into portions the sÎze size of pigeons' Parmesan cheese.
Divide into eggs. Dip Dip in batter and finish in the usual manner. Polenta and
semolina same way semolina fritten fritters are prepared prepared in the same as
rice fritters. Soft Soft roe fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE DE LArrANces LAITANCES
- Poach the soft roes (see COURT-BOUILLOI$. roes in in Court-bouillon Court-
bouillon XV XV (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain and a marinade and put them them in a
marinade of oil, oil, lemon juice or vinegar, and chopped choppOO parsley. Dry, dip
in batter and fry in the usual way. Soufl6 SOUFFLÉS paste Soufflé fritters.
fritters. BEIGNETS sourrrfs - Prepare Chou paste (see with a (see DOUGH) without
sugar. Divide Divide with a spoon spoon into pieces the size of of a hazelnut. Drop
one by one into hot, but not boiling, oil. Cook over over a high flame until the
fritters are well colour. weil shaped, dry, and golden in colour. Drain Drain on
paper or linen towelling and serve. Soum6 sotrrrrfs lux Soufflé fritters fntters
with with anchovy anchovy I. I. ssrcNers BEIGNETS SOUFFLÉS ANcHoIs 250 g. (9 (9
oz., oz., 1 cup) Chou paste (see Prepare 250 DOUGH) and add 2 tablespoons (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) salpicon of desalted desaltOO anchovies. an(~hO'Vles.
Proceed Proceed as for Soufii Souffléfritters. frit ter s. Soufr6 sourrlfs ,c,ux
Soufflé fritters fntters with with anchory anchovy II. n. sptcNETS BEIGNETS
SOUFFLÉS AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOISMake the fritters as directed for Souffid frilters. -
Make As soon as they are cooked and drained, stuff them with Anchovy Anchovy butter
butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Contp6und Compound butters). butters). Soufflé fritters
li la la hongroise" hongroise. BEIGNETS sourrrfs SOUFFLÉS A À LA Sonfr6 HoNcRotsE
HONGROISE - Make 250 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) batter batter as for Souffid
fritters. Add 3 tablespoons (scant * t cup) chopped onions fritters. cooked cookOO
in butter and season season with f 1- teaspoon of of paprika. paprika. Soufflé
fritters à la parmeane parmesane I, or cheese soufl6 soufflé fritters. mtters.
Souffi6 BEIGNETS souprrns SOUFFLÉS A À r,c, LA pARrunsANE. PARMESANE, BEIGNETS
BEIGNETS AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE BEIcNETS 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) Chou Chou paste
paste (see DOUGH), add Prepare 250 oz., I t cup) grated gratOO Parmesan cheese and
season season with a 50 g. (2 oz., little grated nutmeg. little Soufflé fritters
fritters à la parmesane II. n. ssrcNsrs BEIGNETS sourrufs SOUFFLÉS A Àm LA Souff6
PARMESANE - Make Make the the fritters fritters as as indicatod indicated for for
Souffii Soufflé IARMESANE fritters. As As soon as they are cooked and drained,
drained, stuff stuff them fritters. Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which Parmesan
cheese cheese with Crearn has been been added. added. has Soufflé fritters fritters
à la la toscane. toscane. BETcNETs BEIGNETS soui'rrfs SOuFFLÉS A À r,c, LA Soum6
TOSCANE - Proceed ProceOO as as indicated indicatOO for for Soufii Soufflé fritters
d à la roscANE parmesane, adding chopped lean lean ham and and trufres to to the

chou paste.

Sweetbread fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU,

DE DE vEAU VEAUSweetbread poach the the sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Cut into into
square pieces. pieces. Braise or poach Marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in
oil, oil, lemon juice, juice, chopped choppOO Marinate parsley, parsley, salt and
and pepper. pepper. the pieces pieces in in batter, batter, fry, fry, and and
finish finish in in the the usual usual Dip the manner. manner. Truffle fritters.
fritters. BEIcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE TRUFFEs TRUFFES - Cover Coyer large slices slices
Trufle of truffie truffle with with poultry puree and and sandwich together
together in pairs. of in batter batter and and finish in in the the usual usual
way. way. Dip in V",O'pi'~hllp fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS op DE r,6cr-
nvrrs LÉGUMES - Vegetables Vegetables for for Vegetable must be be cooked cooked or
parboiled, parboiled, according according to to their fritters must fritters
nature. Cut Cut them them into into pieces, slices slices or or strips. nature.
Marinate for 30 minutes in oil, lemon lemon juice juice or vinegar, Marinate
parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. chopped parsley, one by by one one in in batter
batter and and fry fry in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Dip one best
vegetables vegetables for for fritters fritters are are artichokes, artichokes,
white white The best asparagus tips, tips, Brussels Brussels sprouts, sprouts,
cauliflower, cauliflower, salsify, salsify, totoasparagus matoes. matoes.

479 479
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Vegetable BEIGNETS Vegefable marrow (U.S. (US. squash) squash) ffower Oowec
fritters. BEJGNETS one into a - Dip the flowers one by one light batter balter and
then Ihen fry. K>O~·t~?'iAn fnrters BEIGNETS vfc6rnnruus VÉGÉTARIENS Vegetarian
fritters à la printanibre. sslcwers (9 oz.) A oz.) vegetable macddoine À l,l LA
pruNt,lNdns. PRINTANiÈRE. Make 250 g. g. (9 vegetable macédoine (q.v.) and blend
with 2 dl. (t (+ pint, scant cup) thick Bichamel pin t, seant Bechamel (see SAUCE).
sauce SAUCE). Leave sauce (see Leave to to cool. cooJ. Finish Finish in in the the
usual manner. Vegetarian fritten A fnrters I à la la romaine. BEIcNETs BEIGNETS
vfc6unrnNs VÉGÊTARIENS À LA LA RoMAINE ROMAINE Ît in some spinach, chop and simmer
it - Blanch sorne (9 oz., butter. Mix 250 g. (9 spinach with 2 dl. oz.,lf lt cups)
spinach (1 pint, dl. (* scant cup) thick Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE) and scant
Béchamel saute and 3 tablegrated cheese. Le,ave spoons (scant I cup) c,rp) graled
Leave to ta cool. Finish in the usual manner. generally made K romeskies. CROMESQU!
S - Kromeskies are generally Kroneskies. cRoMEseusof the same ingredients as as
Croquelles Croquettes (see (sec above), and can above), and also be and all kinds
of also be made made of mince, pur6e, purée, forcemeat and ail kinds left-overs of
meat, t, fish or vegetables. vegetables. of mea À la la frangal'se. française.
Prepare ingredients as as croquettes Prepare the the ingredients Let this get quite
cold. Divide according to the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Lei to 75 g. (l| into
portions of about 60 ta ot to ta 2 oz.). Roll in flour and rccumglCs. and shape
into corks or rectangles. Dip in batter and and drop drop them one one by a pan by
one into a pan of one into Fry until golden brown, drain, dry in a c1oth, boiling
fat. Fry cloth, and salt. Garnish Garnish with fried parsley sprinkle with salt.
parsley and serve with with an appropriate sauce. A la russe. russe. Prepare
according according to the recipe recipe chosen to the chosen and and divide into
pieces pieces as directed above. thin piece of salt pork and Wrap each portion in a
a very thin shape like a cork. Dip in batter batler and finish as indicated above.
preceding recipe, directed in the preceding polonaise. Proceed as directed A la
polonaise. (cr€pes) inslead instead of using large, thin, unsweetened unsweetend
pancakes (crêpes) caul. cauJ. À I'ancienne. Wrap each Duchess a thin layer of of
Duchess A each portion in a potatoes and then an unsweetened unsweetened polaloes
(see (see POTATOES), and then in in an pancake (crêpe). pancake preceding recipes.
@rApe). Finish as directed in the preceding (see with TomalO Tomato salice sauce
(sec Kromeskies are are generally served with Kromeskies SAUCE) or any other
suitable sauce. As kromeskies are very much like croquettes we give only are made,
made, as as far far as as the basic few special recipes. They arc a a few like
croquettes, for for way Iike ingredienls are concerned, ingredients concerned, in
every way whîch which the recipes are given above. A LA BONNE soNNE femme.
CROMESQUIS cRolrrEselJrs À la bonne femme. Kromeskies à. la (see HASH) coated in in
d la la lyonnaise lyonnaise (see FEMME - Beef Bee! /tash HASH) coated FEMME hash à
batter. balter. A LA I,l, CARMÊLlTE cRoluEseuls À clnrrdure Kromeskies à la
cllnnélite. carm6lite. CROMESQUIS garlic, ail, pounded with cream to to which with
garlic, oil, and and cream Salt Salt cod cod pounded pancakes and and have been
added. Wrap in in pancakes been added. chopped truffles trufles have coat with
batter. sauce (see SA SAUCE). Serve UCE). a White wine sm/ce Serve with a Ll
fLORENTlNEFLoRENTINE A LA KromeskJes Kromeskies à i la florentine. CROMESQUIS
cRoMEseuls À grated which grated Truck SAUCE) ta which Bichamel sauce sauce SAUCE)
to Thick Béchamel in butter have have been and spinach cooked in Parmesan cheese
Parmesan cheese and added. Wrap in pancakes and coat with butter. preparations
which are are When the kromeskies are made of preparations shape ioto into corks
corls or into portions and and to to shape or difficult divide into to divide
difficult to (as, for Kromeskies à d la la for instance, instance, in in the the
case case of Kromeskies rectangles, rectangles, (as, urith béchamel then add add
bichamel sauce, then florentine), coat the pancakes with florentine), pancakes, cut
them thern into pieces and dip the spinach. spinach. Roll the paocakes, Finish as
directed above. in frying balter. batter. Finish LA MTREPOIX MIREPoD( A LA
lUomeskJes la mirepoix. CROMESQUlS cnorrmsQuls À Kromeskies à la with VeloUlé
Velouti sauce or Mirepoix (q.v.) of vegetables, blended blended with used a mea
meatless Bech/lmel tless mirepoix is used Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE). If a if
minced raw ham il it shou!d blended with bichamel sauce; ifminced should he be
blended velouti sauce should he used for for sauce should be used is to the
mirepoix, mirepoix, velouté is added addd ta pancakes and and coat coat wjth case
wrap wrap in in pancakes with In either either case blending. ln separately. Tomato
sauce sauce (see SAUCE) separately. balter. batter. Serve Tomaro sAINT-HUBERT
Kromeskies cnolrrsseuls SArNT-HUBERT Kromeskies Saint-Hubert. Saint-Hubert.
CROMESQU1S
DE FLEURS DE DE couRcEs COURGES -

rl

(s*

Demi-glace sauce (see Salpicon Salpicon (q.v.) of game blended with Demi-glace (sec
SAUCE) SA UCE) based on concentrated game stock. Wrap in caul and coat with batter.
pB r,6Kromeckies various vegetables. cRoMEseuts Kromeskies with with varions
CROMESQUIS DE LÉof cooked vegetables cuMEs - Salpicon GUMES Salpicon of vegelables
blended blended with Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE). Wrap in in pancakes
and coat with batter. are artichoke The most artichoke The most usual usual
vegetables vegetables for for this this dish dish are hearts, asparagus, carrots,
salsify and celeriac. celeriac. A t.l Kromeskies A la CROMESQUIS À LA vLADIMIR
VLADIMIR la Vladimir. cRoMgseus sole, truffies Salpicon Salpicon of fillet flUet of
sole, truffles and crayfish tails taUs blended (se SAUCE), based on fish stock.
Velouti sauce (sec with thick truck Velouté and coat coat with Wrap Wrap in in
duchess duchess potatoes and and pancakes and SAUCE). batter. Serve Serve with
Normande sauce (s* SAUCE). Mazagrans - Moulded Moulded mazagrans. Butter Butler
tartlet tins, and (s* out Duchess line thern them with a thin layer of rolled out
Duchess potato potalO (see POTATOES). Fill the tartlets with a salpicon salpicon
(q.v.) or any ally other preparation indicated in the recipe. The filling should be
quite cold. circle ofpotato of potato mixture cut out Cover each each tartlet
tartlet with with a cirde mixture cut out with and brushed with egg. a a fluted
fluted biscuit-cutter, biscuit-cutter, and egg. Brush again with egg and brown
hrown in a very hot aven. oven. ready and Takethe Take the mazagrans mazagrans out
of the tins tins when they are ready arrange on a plate. dee,p fireproof plates
with rolledLarge mazagrans. mazagrans. Line decp ro11edpotato mixture. out duchess
potato mixture. preparation. Cover with Fill with a salpicon salpicon or other cold
preparation. rolledanother layer layer of the potato mixture. mixture. Decorate
with roUedcut in out pieces of duchess potato out patata mixture cut in fancy
shapes. Bake in a a moderate oven. oven. Serve on on the plate plate on which the
mazagran has been bakcd. baked. mazagran a layer layer of of duchess Unmoulded
mazagrans. mazagrans. Roll Unmoulded Roll out out a potatoes. Cut circles, using a
fluted fluted biscuit-cutter biscuit-cutter Cut it it into iota circles, using a
about 5 cm. (2 inches) inches) in diameter. tray. FiJI Fill with with a Put circles
on on a a buttered baking tray. a Put these circles buttered baking putting a cold
preparation, salpicon or any any other other suitable cold a salpicon or
preparation, putting piece the sile size of a walnut on each. of a a second CÎrclet
circlet of duchess potatoes. Seal the the Cover with wiili a potatoes. SeaJ with
egg. Brown Brown lightly in a very hot oven. edges and brush witb garnishes,
salpicons, or other All salpicons, or other preparations Al! garnishes,
preparations given for patties, rissoles, tarUets, also be uscd tartlets, etc.,
used etc., can also patties. croustades, rissoles, mazagrmts. for mGrzaf!rGrns. and
midaillons and M6daillons - The only difference between betwee,n médaillons their
shape. Midaillons Croquettes (see above) is their Croquelles Médaillons are shaped
preparations flat cakes. They are made of the same preparations like small fiat and
Dip them in egg egg and and left until until quite cold. cold. Dip as croquettes
and saut6 in clarified butter. and sauté breadcrumbs and butter. parsley. with
fried fried parsley. Arrange in a a circJe. circle. Garnish wilh served with with a
sauce appropriatt appropriate to Midaillons M~'tlil'llIl)1H are served ta the basic
garnished with also be with vegelables vegetables ingredients. They can can also
ingredienls. They be garnished vegetable pur6e. a fairly thick vegetable with
butter blended wilh butter or with a ways of serving sulrnrs - There There are
several ways are several Oysters. HuîTRES hot hors-d'œuvre, including Oyslers
Oysters d as a a hot hors-d'euvre, încluding cooked oyslers oysters as (see
OYSTERS), (see of oyslers oysters (see I'amdricaine (see OYSTERS), Attereaux
l'américaine Allereau..'.: of fried on skewers, fricd Attereaux oysters on
Allereaux above) fritots, fri/OlS, patties, oysters oysters, etc. in ah an
horsPancakes served served as as pannequets Pannesrets PllJllllE~llets pannequers
il1 - Pancakes (see CrApe bat/er batter (see made from from unsweetened unsweetened
Crêpe d'euvre are made

cREPE).
pANNEer.JETs AUX prnnequets. PANNEQUETS AUx ANCHOIS ANcHots Cut the Anchory
pllooequets. - Cut pancakes into rectangles with Pik.e Pike forcemeat =L,i;Ill~;lQ
and trlrrPI'I'lp,CJI and garnish with pancakes (see (see -rr",r-T'll FORCEMEATS)
with Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, Anchovy buller butters). Compound bulters).
Compound pancakes Roll the 1-'0" fry them. them. PanneErets à I la brullOI~
bnrnoise Pannequets ...."'''' ...." and fry - Roll Stuffwith a brunoise (q.v.) of
vegetables cooked in butter butter and Stuffwiili blended with Bichunel sauce (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). blended pannequeb (Cheshire Gruyère Gruy0re or or Parmesan).
Parmesan). Cheese paooequets Che~ panCakes into rectangles. reCtangles. PANNEQTJETS
AU AU FROMAGE FROMAGE cUt the pancakes PANNEQUETS - Cut

480
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Fill them them with cream eream cheese. eheese. Sprinkle
with grated cheese, eheese,
brown. and brown. à la florentine Oorentine - Cut Cut the the pancakes paneakes
into lozenge lozeoge Paonequets i Pannequeb Garnish with spinach spinaeh cooked
eooked in butter and blended bleoded shapes. Garnish whieh grated cheese eheese
Béchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE) to which with Bdchamel has been been added. added.
Sprinkle SprinkJe with with more grated grated cheese, eheese, and has brown.
brown. pannequets in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. pANNEeuErs PANNEQUETS plNfs PANÉS er
ET Fried panneErets FRITS - Prepare the the pancakes paneakes and and stuff them
them as as described deseribed FRITS Stuffed pannequets. pannequets. below under
Stuffed cut thern them into into pieces, dip dip in in egg egg and Roll into into
scrolls, serolls, cut Roll breadcrumbs, and fry. Pancakes prepared in this way are
also known in France Pancakes under the name of of croquettes croquettes or or
craquelins. craquelins. Apart from the recipes given here, pancakes pancakes can be
stuffed stuffed Apart with with all ail kinds of preparations: preparations:
pur6es, purées, salpicons, salpicons, creams, ereams, etc. as as given given in in
recipes recipes for barquettes, patties, patties, canapis, canapés, etc. for
barquetles, tartlets and other small dishes of the same kind. tartlets Pannequets i
à la grecEre grecque - Rolled pancakes paneakes garnished garnished with Pannequets
a salpicon salpicon of of braised mutton, aubergines aubergines sautéed saut6ed in
oil, and pimentos, (see SAUCE) pimentos, blended blended with sauce (see with
Tomato Tomato sauce seasoned with paprika. paprika. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs
breaderumbs and fry. fry . seasoned Pannequets are often made made from from very
pancakes Pannequets are often very small small pancakes spread with forcemeat,
folded in two and browned under the grill. garnished la hongroise - Rolled pancakes
garnished Pannequets à i la Rolled pancakes with a salpicon of onions and a
salpicon and mushrooms cooked cookd in butter until very very soft, with paprika
paprika and until soft, seasoned with and blended with (se SAUCE). Béchamel or
sauce (see Bichamel or Velouté Velouti sauce panneErets A Pannequets à I'italienne
l'italienne garnished with - Rolled pancakes garnished duxelles to which lean
blended with duxelles (q.v.) to lean chopped ham, ham, blended (se SAUCE), has been
very thick Tomato sauce (see been added. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry.
pancakes and Pannequets à ligurienne i la ligurienne and - Make very small pancakes
fold in two. two. Garnish a salpicon of anchovies Garnish with a anchovies and and
hard(see FONDUE), boiled eggs fondue (see boiled eggs blended with with Tomato
fondue FONDUE), seasoned wi th tarragon. with Sprinkle th breadcrumbs and brown.
brown. Sprinkle wi with Paonequets pancakes into PanneEreb à I la la Saint-Hubert
Saint-Hubert Cut the the pancakes - Cut rectangles or into rectangles purée of
lozenge shapes. into lozenge shapes. Garnish Garnish with a a pur6e ground game
with Demi-glace based on Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) based on concentrated game
stock. pancakes into Pannequets à la strasbourgeoise i la the pancakes Cut the -
Cut gras to rectangles. Garnish rectangles. purée of foie with a Garnish with a
pur6e to which foie gras chopped truffies have been added. panneErets. PANNEQUETS
Stuffed Stuffd pannequets. IANNEeLJETS FOURRÉS rounn6s -- Make Make the the
pancakes large and very thin. Spread them on a table, coat with a thin layer of the
seleeted selected foreemeat, forcemeat, roll roll them them up up and and cut cut
each roll roll into two two or three pieces. Put these on a a baking tray and heat
in the oven. put two If preferred, instead up, put instead of rolling them two
together them up, and and cut cut with a biscuit-cutter biscuit-cutter into into
rectangles, rectangles, squares, squares, with a lozenges or or circles. For
further recipes see CREPES. see CRÊPES. pArEs AU Sm aU pâtés pflt6s au gastronome.
PETITS au GASTROcAsrRorETITS PÂTÉS au gastronome. Small (i inch) thick. pastry
approximately mm. (t thick. Cut into rounds Cut into approximately 5 mm. or pastry-
cutter. or ovals ovals with a a pastry-cutter. Collect into and roll roll them them
out out into remains of the the dough dough and Collect the the remains another
first thinner than the the first another layer, which which should should be be a a
little thinner layer. second layer. Cut of it. Put the second Cut the same same
number ofshapes of shapes out ofiL lot lot of circles on tray. on a a moistened
moistened bakiog baking tray. Slightly in of the cireles circles with water. Put
Put in Slightly moisten moisten the edges of the size of of a a hazelnut. hazelnut.
the centre a portion of of filling filling the the size centre of of each each a
This any other other preparaThis can can he forcemeat, minced minced meat meat or
or any be forcemeat, tion according chosen.. according to the recipe chosen Cover
the first first layer layer of of dough. dough. circles cut cut out out of of the
Cover with the the circles Press with the two two circlets circlets stick stick
with the of a a spoon spoon so so that that the the back back of together. put in
in a a hot hot oven oven for for 12 12 to to 15 15 with egg and put together. Brush
Brush with egg and minutes. minutes.

In addition to the recipes given below, small canbe sma)) pdtis pâtés ean be filled
filled with all ail the the ingredients given for barEtettes, barquettes, patties,
patties,
tartlets. tartlets, etc.

pit6s suaight Small pâtés straight from the oyen oven(Larousse) SmaU (Larousse)

pETITs PAlES pArss AUX lux ANCHOIS ANcHoIs anchovy. PETITS Small p$tds with
anchovy. SmaU pâtés with (se FORCEFis h for c eme at (see FO RCEM ake smallpâtés.
small p dt i s. Garnish Garnish with Fishforcemeat Make (see BUTTER, MEATS) with
BUTTER, Compound Compound with Anchovy butter butter (see MEATS) salpicon (q.v.) of
anchovy fillets has been butters) to which a salpicon added. pArns À pETITs PÂTÉs A
L'ANDALOUSE pitds à L'ANDALoUSE t l'andalouse. I'andalouse. PETITS SmaU Small pâtés
pdtis. Garnish Make small with sa sausage meat to to which which a a small pâtés.
Garnish with Make usage meat and chopped chopped onions butter, and salpicon of
pimentos cooked in butter, lightly fried in butter, has been butter, has Iightly
been added. pArrs À pErlrs PÂTÉS pites à LA CHARCUA LA la cbarcutière. charcutiEre.
PETITS cHA,Rcut la Small pâtés pdtis garnished garnished with meat to to which with
sausage sausage meat TIÈRE uiinn -- Small Small pâtés parsley has chopped parsley
has been added. chopped pErlrs PÂTÉS pArns À pit6s à A LA LA DUXELLES DLxELLES la
duxeUes. duxelles. PETITS Small Small pâtés i la (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) to
Garnish with wrth Pork Pork forcemeat Garnish forcemeat (see equal part of dry
duxelles (q.v.) has been added. which an equal pErlrs PÂTÉS pAr6s DE pB POISSONS
potssoNs pfltds. PETITS can be fish pâtés. Small 6sb - These ean with a a forcemeat
forcemeat of of pike, made in in any any shape. shape. Garnish Garnish with made
salpicon of of cooked cookod fish, whiting or any other other fish, fish, or or a a
salpicon or any whiting (sw SAUCE) Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE) based based on on fish
fish thick Velouté blended with thick and truffies can can be added stock. If
desired, desired, diced diced mushrooms and stock. to the salpicon. to pAr6s D.
pErlrs PÂTÉS game pâtés pitds with os AU with stock. stock. PETITS cIBIER AU Small
Sm aU game E GIBIER pdtis with the recipe recipe for for Small with rus -- Proceed
as as indicated in the Small pâtés JUS (se below) but use game instead instead of
forceforcestock (see use a a salpicon of game stock meat. meal. pArfs AU pETrrs
PÂTÉS pites au gashonome. PETITS au gastronome. Small lu GASTROcAsrRoSm aU pâtés
pdtis garnished garnished with a a salpicon of eocks' cocks' NoME NOME Small oval
pâtés - Small pickled or smoked tongue, tongue, truffies and and mushrooms, combs,
pickled or smoked combs, Demi-glace sauce sauce Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace with
strong strong Madeira-ftavoured blended blended with (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE).
pArfs À pETIrs PÂTÉS p0tes à A LA L-a LYONNAISELYoNNATsE la lyonnaise. PETITS SmaU
Small pâtés t la pdtis garnished garnished with finely chopped or choppod braised
braised or square pâtés Small Small square onions chopped onions have been been
added added chopped to which which have boiled boilod beef beef to concentrated
soft, and and blended blended with with coocentrated in butter until until soft,
cooked cooked in veal stock. stock. veal pArEs DE pETIrs PÂTÉs pfltds. PETITS on
VIANDES vIANDES -- Any Any shape. shape. meat pâtés. Small Small meat (se below)
pdtis à d la h Saint-Hubert below) Garnish Garnish as as for for Small Small pâtés
Saint-Hubert (see game by puree of kind of of meat. meat. by any any kind replacing
the purée of game pErlrs PÂTÉS pArfs À A LA MoscovlrE pit6s à LA MOSCOVITEi la la
moscovite. moscovite. PETITS SmaU Small pâtés (see DOUGH), less fine fine than than
usual DOUGH), less usual Make a Brioche dough dough (see Make a Brioche (3 inches)
inches) in in approximately 7! cm. (3 and cut it into into circles circles of of
approximately and cut it ft cm. diameter. diameter. (see FORCEMEAT) piece of the
size size P ike for cemeat (see FORCEMEAT) the Put of Pikeforcemeat Put a a piece
middle of of each each circle. circle. of of a a walnut walnut in in the the middle

481 481
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Top with with a little little cooked semolina and and a slice of of raw white white
fish. Season Season with salt and spices. Fold the the dough dough over towards
wards the the centre centre from the sides, making small oval-shaped oval-shaped
pies. pies. Press Press the the rims together together and and crimp the edges.
edges. Make a small Put on a tray tray in a warm warm place place and and sm ail
hole hole in in the the middle. middle. Put leave bake in leave to to rise rise for
for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Brush Brush with with egg egg and andhake in a hot oven
oven for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Just Just before before serving serving pour
pour into into the the opening opening of of each each pie pie a a little !ittle
concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE)
to to which which
chopped chopped parsley parsley and and lemon lemon juice juice have have been been
added. added. Small Sm a]] mutton mutton pfltds. pâtés. runrs PETITS pArfs PÂ TÉs
or DE uouroN MOUTON A À r'lNcLArsE L'ANGLAISELine Line deep deep tartlet tarti et
moulds moulds with Lining Lining paste pas te (s@ (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Fill Fill
with with small small dice dice of of mutton, mutton, half half lean lean half half
fat. fat. Season Season with with salt and and pepper pepper and and sprinkle
sprinkle with with chopped chopped herbs. herbs. Make Make some sorne puffpastry
puff pastry and and give give it it 8 8 turns. turns. Cover Cover thepdtis the
pâtés with with little little circles circles of of pastry. pastry. Brush Brush
with with egg egg and and make make a small small hole of each each pie. pie. hole
in in the the middle middle of Bake Bake in in a a cool cool oven oven for for 35
35 minutes. minutes. As As you you take the the pdtis pâtés out out of of the the
oven oven pour pour into into each each 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons Demi-glace Demi-
glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Small SmaJ] poultry poultry pOtes pâtés
with with stock. stock. pnrrrs PETITS pAres PÂTÉs op DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE AU As
described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Small Smal/ pdtis pâtés
with with stock stock AU JUsJUS - As (see (see below) below) using using a a
salpicon salpicon of of poultry. poultry. Small Sma]] pitds pâtés à la la reine.
reine. pErlrs PETITS pAms PÂTÉS A À LA LA REINE REINE - Small Small round round
pdtis pâtés garnished garnished with with poultry poultry puree purée to to which
which chopped chopped trufles, tru ffies , blended blended with thick thick Veloutd
Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), have have been been added. added.
Snall Sma]] p0t6s pâtés à la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert. pnnrs PETITS pArrs PÂTÉS
A À LA LA sArNrSAINTHLJBERT HUBERT - Small Small round round pdtds pâtés garnished
with with game game pur6e purée blended with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see
SAUCE) based on concentrated centrated game stock. Small pttds pâtés with stock.
eETITS PETITS pArns PÂTÉS ,lu AU rus JUS - Line small pastry moulds moulds with
Lining Lining paste paste (sea (see DOUGH). Fill them with a salpicon of forcemeat,
mushrooms mushrooms and truffies blended with strong strong Demi-glace Demi-glace
sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cover Co ver each mould with a round of puff puff
pastry. Press Press the rims together. Fut Put on each each a small small ring ring
of of puff puff pastry cut out with a smaller diameter than the lid. with a fluted
pastry-cutter pastry-cutter of ofa Make Make a small hole hole in the middle middle
of of the lid. lido Brush with egg and bake in a hot oven for 15 to 18 minutes.
Take the pdtis pâtés out of of the moulds. Pour Pour into each a few drops of
thickened veal stock, piping hot. hot. pâtés with stock can be prepared in the same
sa me way Small pdtis Small using of other other meat. meat. using all ail kinds
kinds of Small la strasbourgeoise. strasbourgeoise. pETrrs PETITS pArrs PÂTÉS A À
r,c, LA Sma]] pfltes pâtés à la srRAsBouRGEoIsE purfie of STRASBOURGEOISE -
Garnished with a a purée of foie foie gras to which which chopped chopped truffies
truffies have have been added. added. Gamisbed patties. Boucxr6Es BOUCHÉES cARNrEs
GARNIES - Puff Puff pastry baked Gandshed blind, blind, garnished garnished with
with meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable salpicon salpicon (q.v.).
(g.v.). puff pastry pastry 6 times, times, and then then to a thickness of Roll out
puff mm. (* (! inch). inch). Cut Cut out out circles 6*... 6! cm. (2t (2! inches)
inches) in in diameter diameter 5 mm. with a fluted pastry-cutter. Place on a a
slightly moistened moistened with metal tray. tray. Brush Brush with egg, egg, mark
mark the lid by pressing each metal circ1e lightly lightly with with a smaller sm
aller pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. circle Bake the the patties patties in in a hot
hot oven. oven. Remove the lids !ids and and scoop scoop Bake out the the soft part
part from the the interior interior of of the the patty. patty. out Very Very
small, small, hollowed hollowed out and and variously filled filled brioches
brioches are are also also called called patties. patties.

t i

To Toprepare preparebouchees, bouchées,roll roll out out puffpastry puff pastryand

and cut cutout outcircles circleswith with aafluted Ilutedpastry-cutter pastry-
cutter

Place Place the the circles circles of ofpastry pastry on on a a slightly slighùy
moistened moistened metal metal tray tray

(I-arowse) (Larousse)

Mark Markthe thelid lidwith withaasmaller smallerpastry-cutter pastry-cutter

Bakedbouchees bouchéesready readyfor for filling(lnrousse) filling (Larousse) Baked

482 482
HORS-D'GUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Filling Filling the the patties. patties. Fill Fill with with a a simple simple or
compound compound meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable salpicon,
salpicon, blended blended with with white white or or brown brown stock, pur6es
purées of of meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetables. vegetables. All All the the
fillings fillings recommended recommended for for barquettes, barquettes, cro0tes,
croûtes, tartlets and similar similar dishes dishes can also also be be used used
for patties. Very Very tartlets and small patties gamish for large dishes dishes of
patties can be be used used as as a garnish various kinds. kinds. Slightly bigger
bigger patties can be be served as small various entrées. entries. Just Just before
before filling, filling, put put them them in the the oven oyen for a few seconds.
If If at at all ail possible, possible, arrange the cooking cooking so that that
garnishing garnishing can take place place the the minute minute they come come out
out of of the oven. oyen. This This makes makes take great difference to the
flavour. a great tlavour. The same same applies to all ail a dishes filled filled
with a a salpicon or other hot kinds of pastry dishes garnish. à I'am6ricaine.
l'américaine. soucH6ns BOUCHÉES A À l'*l6ntclrqr L'AMÉRICAINE - Fill Patties i
salpicon of of spiny lobster lobster or or Lobster d à I'amiricaine l'américaine
(see (see with a salpicon with LOBSTER). LOBSTER). à la b6n6dictine. bénédictine.
noucnfrs BOUCHÉES A À r,c' LA s6Nfntcrnm BÉNÉDICTINE - Fill Patties A which with
salt cod pounded with garlic, oil and cream, to which Coyer the patties with slices
slices diced truffies have been added. Cover of truffies. truffies. of à la
bouquetilre. bouquetière. soucHEns BOUCHÉES A À u LA souQUErdRE BOUQUETIÈRE Patties
i FiU with vegetable vegetable macidoine macédoine (q.v.), blended with Bichamel
Béchamel Fill Velouté sauce sauce (se,e (see SA UCE). SAUCE). or Velouti cr.c.MARrà
la Clamart. BOUCHÉES A À rn LA CLAMART - Fill with a Patties i Clamart. BoucHEEs
pur6e of cream. purée of fresh peas with cream. ltrx ÉCREVISSES fcnrvtssns Crayfisb
BOUCHÉES AUX Crayfish patties. BoucHfEs - Fill with a (see sauce (see with Nantua
ragoût of bound with Nantua sauce ragofrt tails bound of crayfish crayfish tails
SAUCE). sAUCE). Fill with cnfcv - Fill m cRÉCY A LA Patties à la with a soucHiss À
la Crécy. Crecy. BOUCHÉES puree of vegetable stock. purée of carrots cooked in
vegetable A LA DIEPPOISE DIEPPoISE noucn6ss À Patties Patties à i la dieppoise.
BOUCHÉES - Fill with a White wine prawns blended with White and prawns salpicon
blended with mussels and salpicon of mussels sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). A LA LA
FINANCIÈRE rrN.lNcriins -- Fill noucrSss À Patties à la financière. financibre.
BOUCHÉES I la (se SALPICON). Coyer with Cover with financière (see with Salpicon d
la financiire Salpicon à sliced truffies. truffes. Fill with ruusNNE -- Fill
soucHfEs À A LA Ll JULIENNE Patties à I la julienne. BOUCHÉES butter and blended
vegetables eut cut into matchsticks, stewed in butter with cream. Patties Patties
with witb oysters. oysters. soucHfns BOUCHÉES lux AUX nulrnrs HuîTRES - Fill Fill
with with poached poached oysters, oysters, drained drained and and debearded,
debearded, mixed mixed with with Normande Normande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE)
SAUCE) made made with with white white wine. wine. pfntcounDlNr Patties Patties i à
la p6rigourdine. périgourdine. noucHfes BOUCHÉES A Àu LA PÉRIGOURDINE and foie Fill
Fill with with a salpicon of of truffies truffles and foie gras, gras, blended
blended with with SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace
sauce sauce (see (see SA UCE). Patties Patties with poultry. noucnfns BOUCHÉES DE
DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE - Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon of of poultry poul
try or or pur6e purée of of poultry poultry with with cream. cream. Patties i à la
la reine. reine. BoucHEEs BoucHÉES A À rlr LA nnrxe REINE - Fill Fill with with a a
pur6e purée of of poultry poultry with with cream cream or or Salpicon d à la la
reine reine (see (see SALPTCON). SALPICON). Patties i à la Saint-Hubert. Saint-
Hubert. BoucHEEs BOUCHÉES A À u LA slnqr-HUBERT SAINT-HUBERTsalpicon made Fill Fil!
with a pur6e purée of of game game or salpicon made from from the the meat meat of
of ground ground game. game. These patties patties should be oval. S6vign6 patties.
Sévigné patties. BoucHEES BOUCHÉES s6vtctqf SÉVIGNÉ - Fill Fill with with a a
salpicon salpicon of of (see in Veloutd chicken quenelles quenelles with truffies
cooked in Velouté sauce sauce (see patty. each patty. SAUCE). Put half a heart of
braised braised lettuce on on each Fill with a cREvErrEs Patties shrimps. soucHfEs
Patties with sbrimps. BOUCHÉES A,Lx AUX CREVETTES with a - Fill (see SAUCE). sauce
(see SAUCE). ragofit shrimp tails with Shrimp sauce ragoût of shrimp with lux
LArrANcEs Patties with soft roes. BoucH6ss BOUCHÉES AUX LAITANCES - Fill Fill with
(see sauce (see Velouti sauce cream or soft roe with cream salpicon of soft a
salpicon or with with Velouté sAUCE). SAUCE). Fill with with a a TRUFFES BoucHEEs
AI-rx truffies. BOUCHÉES Patties with trumes. AUX TRUFFES - Fill or with cream or
in butter, butter, with stewed in of truffies truffies stewed salpicon of salpicon
with cream with Madeira or similar similar wine. Madeira Russian This is is the
Russian PIRocuI Piroghi (Russian cookery). PIROGUI - This from be made made from
can be Piroghi can pies of kinds. Piroghi various kinds. name for pies of various
name for puff pastry, etc., etc., pancake batter, puffpastry, c h ou p a s t e,
pancake do ughs : choupaste, different doughs: different game, fish, poultry, game,
fish, such as as meat, poultry, filled with mixtures such. and filled and (See
PIROGHI.) PIROGHI.) vegetables, rice, cheese. (See pirozhok of diminutive of a
diminutive rIRoJKI Plural of pirozhok Pirozlrki. PIROJKI Pirozhki. -a - Plural of
different different all kinds of piroghii.e. small pie or patty, filled with ail
piroghi- i.e. (See PIROGHI.) PIROGHI.) ingredients. (See small a very very small in
the shape shape of a Pomponnettes Pomponoettes - Rissoles made in pouch. (s?E
DOUGH), paste (see DOUGH), to to a a quality Lining Lining paste Roll out out best
best quality Roll pastryfluted pastrywith a a fluted circles with Cut circ1es
thickness of 5 mm. (t thickness G inch). Cut diameter' (3 inches) in in diameter.
7| cm. cm. (3 cutter 7i Lightly puree the of a a walnut. walnut. Lightly size of
the size of purée a portion of Fill with a Fill middle the middle fold in towards
towards the and fold dough and moisten the rim of the dough a hot hot pouch. Fry
fat over over a deep fat Fry in in deep shape of a a small pouch. to make the shape
puffpastry. left-over puff from left-over can be made from Pomponnetter can flame.
Pomponnetles flame. pastry. can be be used. used. rissoles can for rissoles recipes
for given in in the the recipes All fillings given After FoURREEs -- After DE TERRE
rERRE FOURRÉES potatoes. POMMES PoMI\tEs DE Stuffed potatoes. Stuffed of their
their and two-thirds two-thirds of oven and in the the oyen potatoes have have been
been baked in potatoes Ragofrt à d la cancalaise, cancalaise, Ragoût Ragofit à d la
with Ragoût pulp scooped fill with out, fill scooped out, pulp (q.v') of of
salpicon (q.v.) (see RAGOÛT) with a a salpicon or with RAGOOT) or Nanti (see 7a
Nantua la poultry. poultry. garnished with with cream gamished a cream with a Flan
filled filled with lorraine -- Flan Quicbe Quiche lorraine piping hot. hot. The The
method method and served served piping bacon and of lean lean bacon thin slices
slices of thin quiches is under QUICHE. is described described under preparing
quiches of preparing of QUICHE.
illrl

mussels mussels with with Allemande Allemande or or Poulette Poulette sauce sauce
(se (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

shellfish. or otber other sbeUfisb. spiny lobster, lobster, or lobster, spiny Patti
es witb Patties with lobster, a salpicon Fill with a - Fill or Velouté Velouti
Bichamel or blended with with Béchamel shellfish, blended of the the chosen chosen
shel!fish, (see SAUCE) finished with with and finished fish stock stock and based
on on fish sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based or any any (see BUTTER, butters) or
Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound Crayfish butter (see Crayfish butter other
shellfish butter. other shellfish (square shape). MoNTGLAS -noucH6Es MONTGLAS
shape). BOUCHÉES Patties Patties Montglas Montglas (square combs and and cocks'
combs sweetbreads, cocks' of lamb sweetbreads, Fill Fill with a a salpicon salpicon
of Madeirawith a a Madeirablended with kidneys, and mushrooms, blended kidneys,
truffies truffies and (see SAUCE). Top with with small small sauce (see SAUCE). Top
flavoured Demi-glace sauce flavoured Demi-glace gras and slices of of truffies.
foie gras slices of/are and slices slices of Fill with with MouLEs -- Fill Aux
MOULES noucHfss AUX Patties mussels. BOUCHÉES Patties with with mussels.
A LA L^1, LANGOUSTE L^lNcousrE HoMARD, À BOUCHÉES soucHfrs AU AU HOMARD,

Patties li. d la la reine reine Palties (Larousse) (Larousse)

483 483
HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Ramekins. RAMEQUINS RAl,rgeurNs -- Tartlets Tartlets with with cream cream cheese.
cheese. This This Ramekin.~, name is given to is aJso also given pastry made to aa
smaJi small pastry paste to made of of chou chou paste to name which cheese cheese
is is added. added. For preparation sec For their their preparation see
RAMERAMEwhich KINS. KINS. Rastegai -- Russian Russian patty, patty, made yeast
dough made of of a a yeast dough and and Rastegai sealed only only at at the the
ends. ends. Divide Divide the yeast dough the yeast g. dough into into 150 150 g.
scaled (5 oz.) pieces, roll oz.) pieccs, roll into into balls, balls, allow allow
to to stand stand for for 8 8 to to 10 l0 (5 minutes then then roll roll out into
circJes. out into circles. Put Put on I tabJespoon on each, each, 1 tablespoon
minutes minced beef beef with with chopped chopped eggs eggs and and onion,
forcemeat, or oniono fish fish forcemeat, or minced chopped mushrooms. mushrooms.
Crimp Crimp up up the the ends, ends, making making a a boatboatchopped patty,
leaving shaped patty, leaving the the middle middle unsealed unsealed and and the
the filling filling shaped exposed. Hence Hence the the name, name, which which in
in Russian Russian means means 'un'unexposed. buttoned'. Leave Leave to to stand
stand for for 10 10 minutes, minutes, then then bake bake in in a a hOl hot
bultoned'. oven. When \Mhen ready, ready, brush brush the the ras/ego; rastegai
with with melted melted butter butter and and oven. garnish appropriate add gamish
appropriate to to the the filling. filling. Thus, Thus, a a fish fish ras/egai
rastegai add should have have a a slice slice of of cooked cooked salmon salmon or
or sturgeon, sturgeon, for for a a should mushroom ras/egai rastegai a a teaspoon
teaspoon of pickled cèpes of small small pickled cipes or or mushroom slices of of
hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, egg, etc. etc. Fish Fish raslegais rastegais are are
served served as as an an slices (clear I1sh accompaniment to to ukha, ukha, (clear
fish soup), rastegais to soup), meat meat ras/egais to accompaniment strong beef
beef consommé, consomm6, and and mushroom mushroom raslegais rastegais to to
mushmushstrong room consommé. consomm6. room pasta envelopes RavioH Small pasta
envelopes filled pur6e filled with with different different purée Ravioli - SmalJ
poached. Serve stufrngs, and and poached. Serve in in a grated a clear clear soup
soup with with grated stuffings, (See RAVIOLI.) cheese. (See RAVIOLI.) cheese.
Ravio[ à la lituanielllle i la litranienre See vareniki vareniki in in this this
section. section. RavioU - Sec pastries of Rissoles Sm'all pastries (round, oval,
of various various shapes shapes (round, oval, - Sm·aU Rissoles rectangular or or
turnovers). turnovers). Rissoles Rissoles are are made made from from a a variety
variety rectangular of doughs, doughs, including paste, left-over including lining
lining paste, puff pastry pastry or left-over puff or of pastry. They ordinary
brioche brioche pastry. They are are filled filled mainly mainly with with
crocroordinary quette ingredients. ingredients. The The filling filling should put
on should ooly only be be put on the quette pastry when quite cold. when it it is
is quite cold. For For the preparation method of of preparation pastry the method
see RISSOLES. RISSOLES. see Generally speaking speaking rissoles should be be
fried, fried, but someGenerally rissoles should but someare baked times in the the
oyen. oven. times they they are baked in Rfssol€s à I la la bohémielllle boh6mienne
(see dough (see Using Brioclu Brioche dough Rissoles - Using DOUGH) shape of of
turnovers. turnovers. Fill Fill DOUGH) make make the the rissoles rissoles in in
the the shape gras and with of foie and truffies salpicon of foie gras truffles
blended blended with with rich rich with a a salpicon (see SA Demi-glace SAUCE).
Demi-glace sauce sauce (see UCE). Rissoles i la chalonnaise Rissoles il la
chalonnaise Round rissoles rissoles of of puff puff pastry. pastry. - Round Fill
Fil! with with a a salpicon salpicon of of cocks'combs cocks' combs and and
kidneys, kidneys, trufles truffles and and mushrooms, SAUCE) mushrooms, blended
blended with with thick truck Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) based
chicken stock. stock. based on on crucken Cinderella Cinderella rissoles. rissoles.
RrssolEs RISSOLES cENDR.TLLoN CENDRILLON - Make Make the rissoles shape of rissoles
using using Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGII) DOUGH) in in the the
shape of turnovers. turnovers. Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.)
(q.v.) of of poultry poultry and and truffies truffles blended foic gras. blended
with with a a prurbe purée of offoie gras. Rissoles Rissoles I à la la dauphine
dauphine - Make Make Brioche Brioche dough dough rissoles rissoles in in the shape
ofturnovers. of turnovers. the shape Rissoles Rissoles filled filled with with all
ail kinds k.inds of of garnishes, garnishes, salpicons salpicons (q.v.), (q.v.),
etc. etc. are are served served under under this this name. name. The The name name
of of the the main main ingredients ingredient~ should should appear appear on on
the the menu, rissoles d rissoles d Foie gras gras rissoles à la la dauphine,
dauphine, Lobster Lobs/er rissoles à menu, e.g. e.g. Foie la dauphine, etc. la
dauphine. etc. Farm Fann riseoles. rissoles, RIssoLEs RISSOLES A À r,q, LA
FERMritnE FERMIÈRE --- Made Made from from Lining Lining paste paste (s* (see
DOUGH) DOUGH) cut cut into into circles. circles. Fill Fil! with with a a salpicon
salpicon of of equal equal quantities quantities of of ham ham and and mirepoix
mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables vegetables cooked cooked in in butter,
butter, blended blended with with rich rich Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see
(see sAUCE). SAUCE). Foie Foie gras gras rissoles. rissoles, RJssoLEs RISSOLES AU
Ali FoIE FOIE cRAs GRAS - Choose Choose your yom dougb dough according according to
to taste. taste. Fill Fil! with with a a puree purée of offoie foie gras gras to to
which which chopped chopped trufres truffles cari cali be be added, added, if if
desired. desired. poMpADouR Pompadour RISSOLES POMPADOUR - Roll Roll out out
Pompadour rissoles. rissoles. RJssoLEs left-over left-over puff puff pastry pastry
and and cut cut into into circles. circles. Fill Fil] with with a a salpicon
salpicon of of pickled pickl.xl or or smoked smoked tongue, tongue, truffies
truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms blended blended wfih with Demi-glace Demi-
glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Sausages Sausages, sAucrssEs SAlIC1SSES
- Small Small chipolata chipolata sausages, sa usages, StrasStrasbourg, bourg,
Frankfurt Frankfurt and and Vienna Vienna sausages sausages are are served served
as as horshorsd'euvre. d'œuvre. 484 484

spread with with mustard. mustard. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried
breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, spread season with with a a litt little put in cayenne
and and put for a in the the oven oven for a minute. minute. season le cayenne
Garnish with parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. Garnish Sausages à i la la
duchesse. duchesse. SAUCISSES sAuclssns À rl DUCHESSE A LA oucnessn -- Fry Sousages
Fry the the quickly in sausages quickly in butter. butter. Make Make oval oval
cakes cakes of Duchess of Duchess sausages potato (see (see POTATOES) POTATOES)
brown brown them thern in in the the oyen put a oven and po/alO and put a potato
cake. sausage on on each each potato cake. sausage Add white white wine wine and
and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SA sauce (sec SAUCE) Add UCE) to to the the
butter in in which which the the sa sausages were cooked. cooked. Boil Boil down,
down, add add butter usages were pour trus more butter butter and and pmu this
sauce sauce over over the the sausages. sausages. Sprinklc more Sprinkle with
chopped parsley. chopped parsley. with Frankfurf Strasbourg Shasbourg and and
Vienna Viennq sausages. sausages. SAUCISSES sAucrssns DE Frankfurt, DE FRANCFoRT,
DE DE STRASBOURG, srRAsBoLJRG, DE DE VIENNEvIENNE- Poach Poach the sausages the
sausages FRANCFORT, in boiling boiling water water for for 10 l0 minutes. minutes.
Drain, and grated and serve serve with with grated in horseradish. horseradish.
Sausages I l'italienne. l'italienne. SAUCISSES sAUcIssEs À A L'ITALIENNEL'TTALTENNE
- Proceed as Sausagesà as for Sausages à d la h duchesse. Pour very (see very thick
{/a/ian ltalian sauce sauce (sec for SAUCE) over over the the sausages. sausages.
SAUCE) Sausages à i la la languedocielllle. languedocienne. SAUCISSES sAucrssEs À A
LA m LANGUElaNcwSausages DocIENNE - Fry the sa sausages Cut an aubergine aubergine
into DOCIENNE usages in butter. Cut slices. Dip Dip in flour and and fry fry in in
oil. oil. Put 1 I sausage sausage on on each each slice slice slices. of fried
fried aubergine, aubergine, and and top top with with J I tablespoon tablespoon
Toma/o Tomato of (see FONDUE) FONDUE) seasoned seasoned with with a a liule little
chopped chopped fondue fondue (see garlic. Sprinkle Sprinkle with fried frid
breadcrumbs, put in the oyen oven for a garlic. a and serve. minute, sprinkle with
chopped parsley and Sausage à i la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. SA sAucrssoN cHAUD A LA
r,,c, LyoNNAls Sausage UCISSON CHA UD À LYONNAISEsausage served with hot potato
salado salad. Poached saveloy sa usage served Saveloys are often often made made
with with truffies, trufres, and and also also with Saveloys are with pistachio
nuts added. pistachio Sausages il i la maltaise. maltai,se. SAUCISSFS sAucrssEs A
rrlA,LrAlsn Sausages À r,c, LA MALTAISE - Fry the sausages in sausagcs in butter.
Cut a a sandwich loaf into thick rectangular Hollow rectangular pieces. Hollow I
sausage sausage on each piece. out and fry fry in butter. Put 1 Add white wine to
the butter in which the sa sausages usages were fried, stirring stirring well.
Season with with a little little chopped chopped shallot. Make weil. Season (se
SAUCE). Blanch sorne a rich Demi-glace sauce (sec some orange orange peel, strips
and add sauce. peel, drain, drain, cut into into very very thin strips add to to
the sauce. Pour sausages. Pour over the sausages. Sausages à i la sAucrssEs A la
tyrolienne. tyrollelllle, SAUCISSES À ra LA rynolrENNE TYROLIENNE Cook the sausages
sa usages under the grill. Cut a sandwich loaf Joaf into thick rectangular
rectangular pieces. Hollow Hollow them out and fry in butter. butter. Garnish
Garnish with Tomato Tomalo fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Put I 1
sausage sausage on each piece of of fried fcied bread. bread. Fry onion onion rinp
rings in oil and put put 2 rings on each sausage. sausage. Sausages i à Ia la
zingara. zingara. sAucrssns SAUCISSES A Àm LA zlNclna ZINGARA - Fry the the
sausages sausages in butter. Grill Grill some sorne mushrooms mushrooms and and
fill fill with a julienne Julienne (q.v.) of lean lean ham, scarlet tongue,
truffies truffles and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with tomato-
flavoured tomato-flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Put Put I 1 sausage sausage on on each each garnishod garnished mushroom.
mushroom. Sprinklewith Sprinkle with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Scallop
Scallop shellg shells, gamished. coeurl.I,ns COQUILLES cARNrEs GARNIES - Using
Using a a forcing-bag, forcing-bag, make make a a thin thin border border of
Duchess Duchess potatoes potalOes (see (sec POTATOES) POT A TOES) round round the
the edge edge of of the the scallop scallop shell. You You can can also also use
use thin thin lspndlt rounds of of boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. Put Put I1
tablespoon tablespoon of of the the desired desired sauce sauce on on the the
bottom bottom of of the the shell. shell. Garnish Gamish according according to to
the the recipe recipe chosen, chosen, and and spoon spoon over over some sorne more
more of of the the same same sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with
breadbreadcrumbs crumbs or or grated grated cheese, cheese, depending depending on
on the the ingredients ingredients used, used, and and with with melted melted
butter. butter. Put Put the the shells shells into into a a bakingdish bak.ing-dish
containing containing warm warm water, water, and and brown brown in in a a very
very hot hot oven. oyen. When When scallop scallop shells shells are are gratini
gratine (sprinkled (sprinkled with with breadbreadcrumbs crumbs and and grated
grated cheese cheese and and browned browned in in the the oven) oyen) or or glazd
glazed (heated (heated quickly quickly in in a a hot hot oven), oyen), the the
shells shells can can be be preprepared pared without without a a potato potato
border. border.

Devilled chipolata chipolata sausages. saussges. SAUCISSES sAucrsss CHIPOLATAS

cHrpor,lrAs À A LA r,c, Devilled DIABLE - Cook Cook chipolata chipolata sausages
sausages under grill. Put under a a grill. DIABLE Put each each sausage on on a a
slice slice of which has of bread bread wruch has been fried in been fried in
butter sausage butter and and

-
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
The The function function of of the the border border is Îs to contain contain the
the ingredients ingredients of the the garnish. It can can be be made made of of
different different preparations, prepara tions, which go go well weJJ with with
the the main main ingredient ingredient of of the the garnish. garnîsh. You Vou
can, can, for instance, make make a rim of chicken, veal or fish forcemeat
forcemeat for the or pipe pipe a border border of of spinach, spinach, rice, rice,
etc. the shells, or The The shells shells can can be he made made without
breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or or glazing. glazing. If If they they are are made made
with with a border border of of duchess potato potato they they should should be be
baked quickly quîckly in the oven, to give give the the potato pota ta a good
colour baked before before the garnish is added. added. After After the shells
shells have have been been coated coated with with a sauce, sauce, browned browned
or glazd, they can glazed, can be be decorated with with truffies, truffles,
mushrooms, mushrooms, asparagus asparagus tips, etc. Care Care should be be taken
to use use only only decorawhich are in harmony harmony with the basic ingredients.
Ingredients. tions which Scallop Scallop shells shells of bonemarrow booe-marrow à
la la duxellcs. duxelles. coQUILLES COQUILLES D'AMouRETrns D'AMOURETTES A À ul LA
DUxELLES DUXELLES - Make a border of Duchess potatoes (see with slices slices of of
bonebone(sec POTATOES). Garnish with Duxelles sauce.(see sauce (sec SAUCE). SA
UCE). marrow, mushrooms and Duxelles SprÎnkle meltect butter and aod brown Sprinkle
with breadcrumbs and meltod a few drops of lemon juice the top. After cooking,
sprinkle sprÎnkle a juice on the shells and garnish with chopped parsley. parsley.
of brains brains à I'allemande. l'aUemande. coQuILLEs COQU1LLES DE ScaJlop shells
of Scallop shelh a border of duchess CERVELLE À L'ALLEMANDE - Make Make a border of
cERvELLE A L'ALtrulNDE potatoes. Garnish Garnish with slices of lamb's or calf's
brain and (sw SAUCE). G1aze Glaze in the oven. Allemande sauce (see cERvELLE I
l'aurore. I'aurore. coeuILLEs shelb of brains brains à COQUILLES DE CERVELLE
Scallop sheDs Garnish A a border À t'aunonE L'AURORE - Make a border of duchess
potatoes. Garnîsh SAUCE). and Aurore sauce (see SA with brains, brains. mushrooms
mushrooms and UCE). Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour melted Spriokle meltoo butter
over the with chopped sprinkle with and brown. cooked, spriokle shells, and brown.
When When cooked, shells, a round them a hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and and
chopped parsley. parsley. Pour Pour rouod (se SAUCE). SAUCE). ring of Tomato sauce
(sec la duxelles. coQUILLES DE brafurs à la duxelles. COQU1LLES Scallop shells
shells of Scallop of brains same way way as nuxsl,r,Es - Prepare in in the r,l,
DUXELLES cERvELLE À A LA CERVELLE the same slices of duxelles, using slices of
shells of bone-marrow bone-marrow à d la h duxe/les, Scallop shells Scallop brains
instead instead of of bone-marrow. bone-marrow. DE BARBUE coQUILLES DE of briU
brill Mornay. Mornay. COQUILLES Scallop shells shells of Scallop with Garnish with
MoRNAy border of duchess potatoes. Gamish MORNAY - Make a border (see SAUCE). sauce
(sec with Mornay slices of of cooked cooked brill brill with slices Mornay sauce
pou melted melted butter over the shells and Sprinkle with cheese, pour brown. (In
U.S.A. grey sole for flounder can can be be substituted for U.S.A. grey sole or or
flounder (ln brill.) bril!.) coQUILLES DE brill à la la trouvillaise. trouvillaise.
COQUILLES Scallop shells shells of of brill Scallop duchess Make a a border border
of of duchess A LA TROUVILLAISE BARBIE À rnouvILLAIsE - Make BARBUE garnishing with
slices slices of of Brown the the border before garnishlng potatoes. Brown (see SA
sauce (sec SAUCE). shrimps and and Shrimp Shrimp sauce brill, mussels, mussels,
shrimps brîU. UCE). glazed, but should be be decorated decorated they should shells
are are not not glazed. but they These shells heads. with small mushroom heads.
o'fcnrvtssss -- Make coeuILLEs D'ÉCREVISSES shells of crayfisb, crayfish. COQU1LLES
ScaJlop Scallop sheUs potatoes and garnish with tail with Crayfish Crayfish tail
and garnish a rim rim of of duchess duchess potatoes a (see CRA ragofrt à la
NantUi7 CRAYFISH). Nantua (sec d la YFISH). ragoût (see below). shrimps (sec shells
of of shrimps for Scal/op as for Scallop shel/s Finish as The shells shells used
very smal!. should be very used should small. The AU D'oEUFs AU gratin. COQUILLES
au gratin. coQuILLEs D'OEUFS of eggs eggs au Scallop sheDs shells of ScaJlop
garnish potatoes and and gamish Make a a border of duchess duchess potatoes border
of cRATIN - Make GRATIN Mornay sauce and Mortwy cut into into large dice, dice, aod
hard-boiled eggs eggs cut with hard-boiled with in the the oven. oven. (see SAUCE).
and brown in with checse cheese and SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with (see polssoNs --
Prepare as DE POISSONS Prepare as fish. COQU1LLES coeuIrI.Es DE shells of of fish.
Scallop Scallop sheDs shrimps, of brill. brill, shrimps, for scallop scallop shells
shells of the recipes recipes for described in in the described and mussels.
mussels. soft roes roes and liver, lobster. lobster, oysters, oysters, soft
crayfish, skate skate Iiver, crayfish, garnishes and directed in in the the sauces,
as as directed and sauces, Fill the the shells shells with with gamishes FiJI for
fish fish in in scallop scallop often for The sauces sauces used used most most
often recipe chosen. chosen. The recipe shrimp, duxe/les, duxelles, Aurore,
Béchamel, Bicharnel, shrimp, following: Aurore. shells are are the the following:
shélls Nantua, niçoise, nigoise, Italian, Mornay, Mornay, Naotua, Hungarian, curry,
curry, Italiao, lobster, Hungarian, lobster, sauce. white wine wine sauce. normande
and and white normande fish are are scallop sheUs shells of of fish recipe chosen,
chosen, scallop According to to the the recipe According grated cheese, or they
they are are cheese, or or grated sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or
sp:-inkled glazd. simply simply glazed.

For For all ail these these dishes dishes of of fish fish in scallop scallop shells
shells you you can can use use up up left-overs left-overs of of boiled boiled or
or braised braised fish fish such such as as perch, perch., cod, ccxl,
coalfish, skate, salmon, salmon, sole, sole, trout trout, turbot, turbot. etc.
coalfish, whiting, whiting, hake, hake, skate, Scallop left~overs. coQutLLEs
COQUILLES A À t,l LA rrdueatnn MÉNAGÈRE ScalJop shelh shells of left-overs. Make
Make a a border border of of Potato POlato purie puree (se (see POTATOES) POT A
TOES) and and garnish garnish with with minced minced left-over left-over pieces
pieces of of boiled boiled beef beef blended blended with Sprînkle the the shells
sbells with with with Tomato TomalO sauce (se (see SAUCE). Sprinkle breadcrumbs
breadcrumbs and brown brown in in the oven. oven.

Left-overs Left·overs in in shells can cao also also be be prepared prepared with
with minced minced mutton or veal. vea!. If If minced mÎnced veal is used, used,
blend with with a a thick thick SAUCE). Velouti Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE). Velolllé or Bicharnel Scallop Scallop shelb sheDs of lobster. c@uILLEs
COQUILLES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Make Make a border with with duchess duchess
potatoes and and garnish garnish with with pieces pieces of of lobster, or salpicon
salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of lobster lobster wth with Bichamel, Béchamel, Lobster
LobSler Sprinkle the or or Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE).
Sprinkle the shells shells with with
grated cheese and brown brown the top. Scallop of meat. coquu,les COQUILLES DE DE
vIANDES VIANDES - Follow F ollow the the ScaDop shells sbells of bone-marrow.
Leftdirections directions given given for for Scallop Sca/lop shells shells of of
bone~marrow. Left· overs of boiled, braised or roast wast lamb, mutton, mutton,
beef beef or or veal veal can be used. used. Scallop Sc III Il op shells of of
mussels. coQrtILLEs COQUILLES DE DE MouLEs MOULES - Prepare Prepare for Scallop
shells of as as described described in the the recipes recipes for Scallop shel/s
of oysters or or of the of soft roes. Scallop shells of roes. You You can also also
follow follow any any of the recipes for fish in În scallop shells. dirble.
coQrlILLEs shells of oysters à la diable. Scallop sheUs COQU1LLES D'HUlTnss
D'HuîTRES ScaUop and garA À r,c, LA oIABIT DIABLE - Make a a border of duchess
potatoes potatoes and garand thick and bearded, and oysters, drained and nish with
poached oysters, thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) made with the
water in which seasoned with of the oysters have have been been poached, poached,
seasoncd with a pinch pÎncb of the oysters Brown. frid breadcrumbs. Brown. with
fried Sprinkle the shells with cayenne. Sprinkle as oysters cooked in this way are
often known Shells with oysters known as Oysters d la diable. Oysters à D'ttutTnEs
coQUILLEs D'HuîTRES shells of Scallop sbeDs Scallop of oysters oysters Mornay.
Mornay. COQU1LLES garnish potatoes and and garnish of duchess potatoes a border of
MoRNAy MORNAY - Make a and Mornay and debearded, poached oysters. debearded, and
oysters, drained and with poached Mornay pour butter grated cheese, butter cheese,
pour (see SA with grated SAUCE). sauce (sec UCE). Sprinkle with over the shells,
and brown. In poultry. COQU1LLES on VOLAILLES vot.,qlrrss - In coQLTILLES DE shells
of of poultry. Scdlop sheUs ScaJlop ordinary should be used. principle, only the
white meat should used, but in ordinary principle, to use use are served served
mainly mainly to shells are these shclls home kitchens, where these poultry can
parts of the poultry can be be used. all parts up left-overs, al! used. DE poultry
à l'allemande. coQlJrLLEs DE I'allemande. COQUILLES of poultry shlls of Scallop
sheDs ScaJlop Make a a border border of of duchess A L'ALLEMANDE t'lr,lnulNDE -
Make voLATLLE À VOLAILLE poultry meat meat and white pollltry garnish with slices
of potato€s and of white and gamish potatoes (se SA hot oven. oven. a hot SAUCE).
Glaze in a Allemande sauce (sec Allemande UCE). Glaze VoLAILLE poultry Monselet.
COQUILLES DE VOLAILLE coQUILLES DE shells of poultry Scallop sbeDs Scallop
potatoes. Gamish Garnish of duchess duchess potatoes. Make a a border border of
MoNsELET - Make MONSELET poultry meat. and hearts and meat, artichoke artichoke
hearts white poultry slices of of white with slices with (see SA SAUCE). Mornay
sauce sauce (see Mornay UCE). After grated cheese and in the the oven. oven. After
and brown in Sprinkle with grated garnish each with 2 2 sUces slices of of each
shell shell with the oven, oven, gamish taking out out of of the taking hearts
cooked cooked in in sliced artichoke artichoke hearls with sliced trufle
aiternating alternating with trume butter. princesse. COQUILLES DE VOLAILLE
voLAILLE coQLnLLEs DE ofpoultry shelb of Scallop shells Scallop poultry princesse.
pRINcEssE - Make a potatoes. of duchess duchess potatoes. a border of PRINCESSE
poultry meat Allemanfu meat and and Allemande of white poultry slices of Garnish
with with slices Gamish (see SA SAUCE). sauce (see UCE). sauce put on shell2 sHces
slices glaze. Just on each she1l2 serving, put Just before before serving, Do not
glaze. in butter. butter. tips cooked cooked in of asparagus asparagus tips a
bouquet of truffie and and a of trume poulhy Rossini. DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Rossini.
COQUILLES coeuILLFs DE Scallop sbel1s shelb of of poultry Scal10p potatoes and
Duchess potatoes and brown RossIM - Make Make a a border border of of Duchess
ROSSTNI garnish. before adding adding the garnish. before poultry meat, meat,
truffies trufles and and with slices slices of of white white poultry Garnish with
GarnÎsh (see SAUCE). SAUCE). ttick Madeira sauce (see thick gras put on shell 1 I
slice slice of of foie serving, put on each each shell Just before before serving,
Just foie gras trufle. and a a slice slice of of trume. saut6ed in in butter,
butter, and sautéed pfukled tongue. pouttry with with smoked snoked or or pickled
tongue. shells of of poultry Scallop shells Scallop Make a of a border border of
VoLAILLE À A L'ÉCARLATE r'fcmure - Make coeuILLEs DE DE VOLAILLE COQUILLES

rl

i
-

485
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
potatoes and duchess potatoes and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. duchess
Garnish with poultry meat, with slices slices of of white white poultry meat,
smoked smoked or or Gamish pickled tongue (see SA Allemande sauce tongue and and
Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). pickled UCE). just before glaze, but Do not not glaze,
blut sprinkle sprinkle the the shells shells just before serving serving Do with
chopped chopped tongue. tongue. with Scallop shells shelh of of shrimps.. shrimps.
COQùlLLES coqur,I,Es DE DE CREVETTES cREvETTEsMake Scallop - Make potatoes. Gamish
a border border of of duchess duchess potatoes. Garnish with with a a ragoût
ragofit of of a shrimps' tails (se SA tails with with Béchamel Bdchamel or or
Velouté Yelouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE) shrimps' UCE) (see BUTTER, finished with
with Shrimp Shrimp bu/ter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound finished butters).
but/ers). grated cheese, pour meIted Sprinkle with with grated cheese, pour melted
butter the butter over over the Sprinkle shells and and brown brown in in the the
oven. oven. shells shells of skate Hver Scallop sbeUs of skate liver and ad browo
brown butter. butter. COQUlLLES coeurt,t,Es Scallop DE FOIE FoIE DE DE RAIE RAIE AU
AU BEURRE BET.JRRE NOIR NorR Make a a border border of of duchess duchess DE - Make
potatoes and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. Garnish Garnish with with
slices slices of of potatoes cooked skate skate liveT. liver. cooked pounded
parsley, parsley, and Sprinkle with with pounded and a a few few drops drops of
lemon lemon Sprinkle juice. At At the potn Brown the la last (see BUTTER, moment
pour Brown butter (see BUTTER, juice. st moment Compound but/ers) butters) over
over the the shells. shells. Compound Scallop sbeUs shells of polonaise. COQUILLES
of skate skate liver liver à A la la polonaise. coerJrllrs DE DE ScalJop por"oNArs
FoIE DE DE RAŒ nau À A LA r.A POLONAISE Dress and garnish as and garnish as
directed directed FOIE - Dress for Scallop Scallop shells shelb of ofskate liver
and andbrown butter. for skate /iver brown bUller. yolks of Sprinkle with with the
the chopped chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and and Sprinkle parsley.
chopped parsley. chopped Brown fine (see BUTTER. breadcrumbs in fine breadcrumbs in
Noisette butter (see BUTTER, Noisette butter Brown Compound bulters) butters) and
and sprinkle sprinkle over over the sheJJs. shells. Compound Scallop shells shells
of of soft soft roes roes à i la la florentine. florentine. COQUILLES DE coerrrllEs
DE Scallop LAITANcES À A LA rl FLORENTINE rroneNTrNE Make a a border border of of
duchess LAITANCES - Make potatoes. Garnish Garnish with with slices slices of soft
soft carp rocs roes or hcrring herring roes potatoes. arranged on on a a layer
layer ofspinach of spinach cooked cooked in butter, butter, aod and Mornay arranged
Mornay (see SA sauce (see gratod cheese and SAUCE). Sprinkle with grated and brown
UCE). Sprinkle sauce in the oven. in the oven. Scallop she)1s shelb of sweetbreads.
COQUILLES coeurI.r,ns DE Rrs D'AGNBAU Scallop of sweetbreads. DE RIS D'AGN~AU
Prepare sweetbreads as as described described in the recipes Prepare with with
lambs' lambs' sweetbreads for Scallop shells of bone-marrow shells of or Scal/op
Scallop shel/s of brains. for Scallop shells of bone-marrow or Small soufflés.
soufr6s. pETrrs sourrrfs These are are made made in SmaU PETITS SOUFFLÉS - These
cassolettes all the described in cassolettes from from ail the different different
mixtures mixtures described in the section on SOUFFLES. SOUFFLÉS. section on Small
soufrds SmaU soufflés I à I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. prnrs PETITS sourFt,fs
SOUFFLÉS A À r'.ltvrfnrL'AMÉRIcArNE the cassolettes with alternate alternate layers
CAINE - Fill Fill the cassolelles with layers of of the lhe mixture soffii (see
mixture used used for for Lobster Lobs/er soufii sou./ffe or or Spiny lobster
lobs/er soufflé (see SOUFFLES) and SAt piCOtD. SOUFFLÉS) and Salpicon Salpicon d à
l'amiriiaine l'américaine (see (sec SALPICON). Finish Finish in in the the ordinary
ordinary way way as as described described in the the section on SOUFFLES.
SOUFFLÉS. Snall SmaU soufl€s soufflés i à I'aurore. l'aurore. pETrrs PETITS
sourrrts SOUFFLF..$ A À l'.1,(nonn L'AURORE Garnish for Chicken Gamish the the
cassoletles cassolelles with with the the mixture mixture for Chicken souffii
soufflé (see (see SOUFFLE) SOUFFLÉ) and and add add concentrated concenlrated
tomato tomato juice. juice. When When the the souffi6s soufflés come come out out
of of the the oven oven sprinkle sprinkle them them with with the the chopped
chopped yolk yolk of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and and chopped chopped
parsley. parsley. Small Small crayfish crayfisb soufl6s soufflés i à Ia la Nantra
Nantua I. J. psrrrs PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLÉS o'fcnnvrssns D'ÉCREVISSES (A (À la LA
NlNrue) NANTUA) - Rub Rub through through a sieve sieve 125 125 g. g. (4 (whiting,
(4 oz.) oz.) white white fish fish (whiting, cod cod or or sole) sole) cooked in
butter. buller. Add to to this this pur6e purée l| Hdl. dl. Q (~ pint, pint, 3 ~
c.rp) cup) crayfish crayfish puree purée blended blended with with thick thick
Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Season Season with with a a
little little cayenne. cayenne. Blend Blend with with 3 3 egg egg yolks yolks and,
and, at at the the last last minute, minute, work work 3 3 stifry stiffly beaten
beaten egg egg whites wbites into into the the mixture. mixture. perrrs Small SmaU
crayfish crayfish souffies soufflés I à la la Nantua Nantua II. II. PETITS sourrrfs
SOUFFLÉS o'EcnnvtssEs D'ÉCREVISSES (i, (À r.l, LA NlNrul) NANTUA) - Prepare Prepare
the the mixture mixture as as describod described in in the the preceding precedîng
recipe. recipe. When il into into the the cassolettes cassolettes afian5e arrange
alternate alternate When putting putting it layers layers of of salpicon salpicon
(q.v.) (q.v.) of of crayfish crayfish tails tails with with trufres. truffles.
Finish Finish as as described described in in the the preceding preceding recipe.
reeÎpe. Small Sm.all crayfish crayfish soufles soufflés with with Parmesan.
Parmesan. pETrrs PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLÉS p'fcnevlssrs D'ÉCREVISSES AU AU IARMESAN
PARMESAN - Fill Fill the the cassolettes cassolettes with with a a layer layer of
of the the mixture mixture used used for for Parmesmt Parmesan soffii souffle (see
(see SOUFFLE). SOUFFLÉ). On On this this put put IJ tablespoon tablespoon Crayfish
Crayfish tail tail ragofit ragoût d li la la Nantua Nantua (se (sec CRAYFISH). of
Parmesan Parmesan CRA YFISH). Cover Cover with with another another layer layer of
soufr6 soufflé mixture. mixture. Finish Finish as as described described in in the
the preceding preceding recipes. recipcs.
486 486

prrrrs SOUFFLÉS Small oyster oyster soufflés i la la cancalalse. souffies à

cancalaise. PETITS lux sourrrrs AUX Small ons À i LA LA CANCALAISE cANcALArsp --
Poach Poach 12 12 oysters oysters in in their their DITS juice. Drain. own juice.
Drain, and and dry dry in in a a clotho cloth. own Boil down (t pint, down the the
cooking cooking stock stock and pint, -î and add add lt l| dl. dl. (l cup) Boil 3
cup) (see SAUCE). thick Béchamel Bdchamel sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Strain, Strain,
and and blend blend with with thick yolks. Add 3 egg egg yolks. Add the the oysters
oysters cut cut in in two two and and the the beaten beaten egg egg 3 whites.
whites. Finish as preceding recipes. as described described in in the the preceding
recipes. Finish pETrrs SOUFFLts pRrNprircesse. PETITS Small soufflés souflds à i la
la princesse. sourrrfs À A LA r-q, PRINSmal] cEssr Fill the the cassolelles
cassolettes with with altemate alternate layers layers of of the the mixmixCESSE -
Fîll (see SOUFFLE) ture used used for for Chicken Chicken sou./ffé souffii (see
SOUFFLE) and and a salpicon a salpicon ture of truffies truffes and and asparagus
asparagus tips. tips. of Finish as preceding recipes. as described described in in
the the preceding Finish pETrrs SOUFFLÉS Small soft soft roe roe soufflés. soufres.
PETITS sourrrfs DE DE LAITANCES LArrANcEs SmaU drain the soft soft roe of of carp
carp or or other other fish. fish. Rub Rub Poach, cool and drain g oz.) fine sieve.
g. (4 a fine sieve. To To each each 125 125 g. pur6e add oz.) of this this purée
add through a (+ pint, î l+ dl. dl. (i (se,e SA cup) thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce
sauce (sec SAUCE). It UCE). t cup) egg yolks and and add add the the 3 beaten egg
egg whites. whites. Blend with 3 egg Finish as described preceding recipes.
described in in the preceding Finish $rbrics - Sirnilar Similar to to small small
croquettes croquettes except that that they they are are Subrics·not dipped dipped
in egg egg and breadcrumbs and fried in in deep fat, but but are cooked cooked În
in bulter butter in pan. For in a a shallow shallow pan. For their their general
are preparation see see SUBRICS. SUBRICS. preparation Brain and and bone-marrow
bone-marrow subrics. srbrics. SUBRICS suBRIcs DE! DE CERVELLE. cERVELLE, Brain
D'AMouRETrss Poach a a calf's calf's brain, brain, drain. drain, and and cut cut
into n'AMOURETTES - Poach a terrine. tenine. large dice. Put into a (3 tablespoons,
Add t dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant t cup) Allemande or Add + dl. * cup) (se,
SAUCE). Bdcharnel sauce (see SAUCE), and and 1 I egg egg beaten beaten as as for
for an Béchamel sauce Season with with salt, salt, pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg.
Mix Mix careomelette. Season fully so as not to crush the brain. brain. Finish as
described under SUBRICS. Serve with (see SA with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). SUBRICS.
UCE). Instead of calCs calf's brain equivalent of sheep or ox ] nstead of brain an
equi valent amount of be used. brains can he Subrics made of sweetbreads and are
preSubrics and bone-marrow bone-marrow are pared pared in the same manner. Brain
srbrics à I I'italienne. suBRrcs DE DE CERVELLE cERvELLE À A Brain subrics
l'italienne. SUBRtCS L'ITALENNE eggs beaten as L'iTALfENNE - Dice the brains and
blend blend with wÎth 2 2 eggs for an omelette, rnixed mixed with for an with I J
tablespoon flour flour seasoned seasoned with pepper pepper and nutmeg. Add 2 (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) grated grated Parmesan Parmesan Add 2 tablespoons
tablespoons (3 cheese. Serve with cheese. Finish FinÎsh as as described under under
SUBRICS. Serve Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Snbrics Subrics
i à la la florentine - Make a a preparation for subrics subrics with with spinach
and finish 6nish off off with 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., I ! cup) grated Parmesan
Parmesan cheese. cheese. Finish Finish as as described described under SUBRICS.
SUBRICS. Subrics Subdcs of goose goose liver. susnrcs SUBRIC'l DE DE ForE FOrE cRAs
GRAS - Put Put 50 g. (2 (2 oz.,* oz.,! c,rp) cup) sifted siftcd flour floue into a
bowl. bowl. Add I l egg egg beaten as for an omelette, and and2 2 or or 3 3
tablespoons tablespoons thick thick cream. cream. Season Season with witb salt and
pepper, pepper, and mix. Cook Cook 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) goose goose liver. Cool and
dice. Mix Mix carecarefully fully into into the the above above preparation.
preparation. Finish Finish as as described under under SUBRICS. Serve with with
PdriPerigueux (see SAUCE). SA UCE). gueux sauce sauce (see Subrics Subrics I à la
la menaglre menagère - Dice Dice 250 g. g. (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cold cold braised
braised or or boiled boilcd beef. bcef. Add Add I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped
onion onion cooked cooked in in butter butter until until very very soft, soft, and
and I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Blend Blend this
this mixture mixture with with 2 2 beaten beaten eggs and and I 1 tablespoon
tablespoon flour. flouL Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and
nutmeg. nutmeg. Mix Mi", well. weil. Finish Finish as as describod described under
under SUBRICS. SUBRICS. Subrics Subrics can can be be prepared prepared in in the
the same sarne way, way. using using all ail kinds kinds of of cold cold cooked
cooked meat rneat and and fish. 6sh. Pultry Poultry liver Iiver grbrics. subrics.
suBRrcs SUBRICS DE DE ForEs FOIES DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Cook Cook chicken
chicken (or (or other other poultry) poultry) liver liver in butter. butter. Cool
Cool and and dice. dice. Blend Blend with2 with 2 beaten beaten eggs, eggs,
I1tablespoon tablespoon flour, flour, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg.
nutmeg. Finish Finish as as described described under under SUBRICS. SUBRICS.
HulTREs, HutTRES,
HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE
Rice Rice srbrics subrics ià la la pi6montaise. piémontaise. swntcs SUBRICS DE DE
RIz RIZ A Àm LA prfuottPIÉMONrAIm TA1SE - Blend Blend 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz. oz.
l] Hcups) cheese cheese risotto risotto with with 2 2 beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Add
Add I1to to 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons lean, chopped chopped ham, ham, and and
(see

mix. mile. Finish Finish the the subrics subrics in in the the usual usual manner.
manner. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Semolina Semoli.na subrics. subrics. sLJBRIcs SUBRICS DE Dr; sEMouLE SEMOULE -
Proceed Proceed as as for for Rice Rice subrics subrics d à Ia la piimonlaise,
pîémonlaise, using using semolina semolina cooked cooked in in a a clear stock or
or in in milk. milk. Omit Omit the the chopped chopped ham, ham, if if desired.
d~ired. cJear stock Sweetbread Sweetbread srbrics. subrics. suBRIcs SUBRICS DE DE
RIs RlS DE DE vEAU, VEAU, D'AGNEAU n'AGNEAU Proceed Proceed as as described
described for for Brain Brain subrics, subrics, using using a a salpicon salpicon
(q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Talnouse Talmouse - This This can be
he made made in many many different different ways ways but but it it should always
always have have cheese checs.e as a basis. basis. Line tartlel tins tins with with
Fine Fine linW lining paste(see pasle (see DOUGH) DOUGB) Line fluted fluted tartlet
and and fill fil! with whatever whatever cheese chccse preparation preparation is
is given given in in the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Brush with with egg, egg,
sprinkle sprinkle with with Gruydre Gruyère cheese, cheese. dîce, and and bake bake
in a slow oven. oven. Take tbe the talmouses out oui of of the the dice, tins.
tins. Talmouses which which have Gougire Gougère batter baller (see (sec DOUGH)
DOUGH) as a a basis basis are often filled fùled with with a cream cheese cheese
mixture after after they are cooked. Talmouses Talmouses A à I'ancienne J'ancienne
- Roll RoU out out some sorne left-over puff puff pastry to ta a thickness of 5 mm.
(+ inch). Cut into squares of of 6 cm. cm. (2t (21· inches). inches). Coat with a
thin layer of the mixture ml."<ture used for Chieese Cheese soffi soufflé (see
SOUFFLE). on each talmouse. Put very small dice of Gruydre cheese on corners so
Lift Lift its four four corners so as to enclose the fiIling. filling. Put Put
these turnturnsheet. Bake overs on a baking baking sheel. Bakc in a slow oven.
overs i la Talmouses la pttissilre - Line Line fluted fluted tartlet tartlet tins
tins with wilh Talnouses à with a a chees.e chee* Chou Fine Fine lining paste (s@
DOUGH). Fill Fil! with Brush over p as t e (see, DOU GH) piped through a forcing-
bag. Brushover paste(see and with egg, sprinkle with very small dice of Gruydre
cheese and oven. bake in a slow aven. fill the the choux tins, and and fil! their
tins. out of of their talmouses out Take the Take the lalmouses piped through a
forcing-bag. a forcing-bag. mixture pÎped a cream cheese mixture with Ci

SAUCE) on on the the mushrooms. mushrooms. Argenturil tartlets. tartlets.

TARTELETTEs ARGENTEUTL ARGENTEUIL - Fill Fil! with with ChicEm purie purée (see
(see PUREE). Cover Cover with with asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked cooked in
in butter. butter. Beatrix Beatri.x tartlets tartlet ... TARTELETTEs TARTELETTES
sflrRx BÉATRIX - Garnish Garnish with with Mushroom purie (see (see PUREE). PURÉE).
Make Make a a border border of of shrimps. Put a poached oyster oyster on on each
each tartlet. tartlet. Cover Cover with wilh Normandc Norman/Y> sauce SA UCE).
sauce (see SAUCE). Cxnied Curried tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTEs TARTELETTES A À
I'tNplENNn L'iNDIENNE - Fill Fill with with a a prawn ragofrt made with with cuffy.
Put Put I 1 teaspoon tcaspoon Rice Rice d à I'inl'inragoût made dienru (see RICE)
on on each each tartlet. (sec RICE) Tartlets i à l'6coss8ise. l'écossaise.
TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A À r'fcosslts L'ÉCOSSAISE - GarGarnish nish with with
Salmon Salmon purie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Cover with with Mornay
Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated
cheese, cheese, and and brown. brown. Put Put a a piece of of sliced sliced truffie
trurne on on each tartlet. tartlet. Tartlets i à la la japonaise. TARTELETTES
TARTELETTES A Â r"l LA r.lpopusn JAPONAISE - Fill Fil) with with Chinese Ch.inese
artichdkes with with cream. cream. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried through
in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wannthrough in the the oven. oven. Metternich
Mertemicb tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES METTERNIcS METTERNICH -
Garnish Garnish with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads
sweelbreads and and truffies truffles seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika.
Put Put a a small small slice slice of of calf's calf's brain brain on on each each
tartlet. tartlet. wth Hungariot Cover Cover with Hungarian. sauce sauce (see (sec
SAUCE). SA UCE). Tartlets Tartlets i à la la mirepoil. mirepoix. rlnrsrsmns
TARTELETTES A Â r,l LA unspox MIREPOIX - Fill Fil! a with wÎth a a mirepoix (q.v.)
(q.v.) of of vegetables cooked cooked in in butter butter with with a salpicon
salpicon of ham harn blended blended with rich rich veal veal gravy. Cover Cover
with with (see FORCEMEATS). a a thin thin layer layer of of Chicken Chicken
forcemeat forcemea/ (sec Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. TARTELETTEs PRINTANIA
Printania Printania tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES PRINTANlA - Fill Fill with with
Sprinkle with cream. Sprinkle morels in in cream. with fried fried breadcrumbs.
breadcrumbs. Warm Wann and then through through in in the the oven oven and then
put put I 1 teaspoon teaspooD asparagus asparagus tips tips tartlet. cooked cooked
in butter butter on on each each tartlet. with a a salpicon salpicon Fill with
nfcIN,c. TARTELETTEs RÉGINA Regina tarttets. - Fi!! tliIrtlets. TARTELEl"TES
Sprinkle with with cream. cream. Sprinkle and truffies of mushrooms and of truffies
with with fried fried put a and then then put a oven and through in breadcrumbs.
Warm Warm through in the the oven each on each in butter saut6ed in of sweetbread
sweetbread sautéed slice of very small small slice butter on very tartlet. tart/et.

DE SAINT-DENIS sAINT-DENIS TALMous$ DE talmouses. TALMOUSES Saint-Denis talmouses.

Saint-Denis

1747' Amsterdam 1747. from Cuisinier Cuisinier gascon, Amsterdam Recipe from
preparation of cream a rlrf'rI,;j,.,.IH'In .'Make Make ord Înary puff pastry; ,
take a ordinary work it thoroughly with your hands; cheese and drain well; ; wark
will absorb, a grain of salt, as the the cheese will add as as many eggs as add put
a a layer well mixed, put is aU all wc]) when this is flour; when and a a pinch of
flaur; and puff pastry pastry and fold and fold rolled-out puff on the rolled-out
mixture on of the cheese mixture oven and and in the the aven bake in over with
egg, egg, bake Brush over over both layers. Brush serve.' quiche. to a a chees.e
cheese quiche. very similar similar to is very kind of talmouse is of talmouse This
kind This the Prepare the fpmmos- Prepare Aux ÉPINARDSTALMousEs AUX Spinach
talmouses. tahnous€s. TALMOUSES Spmach previorrs recipes and fill and fil! of the
the previous in any any of describod in talmouses as as described talmouses grated
(see SOUFFLÉ) to which grated SOUFFLE) la soufii (see them with with a a Spinach
Spinach souffle them added. cheese has been been added. cheese preceding recipes.
recipes. the precedîng described in in the as descrÎbed Finish the the talmouses
talmouses as Finish preparaThe preparacARNIEs -- The TARTELEmES Tartlets, Tart
1ets, garnished. T ARTILEITES GARN1ES from for barquet/es, as for barquettes, from
is the the same same as tartlets is tion of of garnished tartlets tion can be be
These lartlets tartlets can in their their shape. These only in differ only which
they di.ffer which made from from usually made are usually prepared from ail kinds
ofdoughs of doughs but are all kiods prepared (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Fine lining
lining paste (sec Fine for described for moulds as described tartlet mou fluted
tartlet some round round or or fluted Line some Line Ids as Take them them blind.
Take (see above). tartlets blind. Bake the the tartlets Barquettes (sec above).
Bake Nlll'IJU.plI/'.t in the the chosen chosen recipe. finish as as descrihed
described in and finish out of their their tins tins and given in recipes which in
the the recipes fillings given the fillings In addition to the addition to can
similar dishes dishes cau given for and similar for barquettes barquettes and
follow, ail all those those given follow, for tartlets. tartlets. be used used for
be Coat the the soRrr. -- Coat TARTELETTES,lcNb Agnes Sorel Sorel tartlets.
tardets. TARTELETTES AGNÈS SOREL A.gnes (see purde (see layer of of Chicken Chicken
purée with a a layer bottom of of the the tartlets tartlets with very sma!! small
slices slices of of of very with aa border border of PUREE). Surround Surround with
pickled or tongue. Put Put aa or smoked smoked tangue. of chickcn and pickled
breast of chicken and breast middle. head in in the the middle. mushroom head
mushroom sauce little A Allemande Pour aa little in the oven. Pour Heat through the
oven. through in Heat lIemonde .wuce 487 487

name cavers covers cARNIEs-This garnished. TIMBALES TIMBALES GARNIESTimbales,

gamished. This name in shape shape but but similar in are aU all similar which are
dishes which small dishes a variety variety of small a differ. ingredients differ.
their ingredients their motifs of cif with tiny tiny motifs Decorate wîtb moulds.
Decorate dariole moulds. Use butlered buttered dariole Use Alternatively, sprinkle
ham. Altematively, lean ham. or lean scarlet tongue or truffie, scarlet truffte,
Line with with a a layer of tongue. Line or chopped tongue. with choppe<! chopped
truffie or with suitable. anything.else suitable. poultry, fish or or aoything.else
of poultry, fine forcemeal forcemeat of fine (q.v.) prepared prepared cold salpicon
salpicon (q.v.) a cold with a middle with Fill the the middle FiJI garnish with
with a a the garnish Cover the recipe selected. selected. Cover the recipe to the
according .,,.,/',, .. ..-1 .... ,.,. to the for lining lining the chosen for as
the the one one chosen forcemeat as same forcemeat layer of the same pan of in a a
pan of oven, standing in in the the aven, Cook in mould. of the the mou inside of
Id. Cook for a a few few in the the moulds for Leave in l8 minutes. minutes. Leave
15 to to 18 for 15 water, for dariole or six-sided six-sided dariole Cylindrical or
out. Cylindrical taking out. minutes before before taking minutes can be be used.
used. moulds cao moulds a sauce sauce in in with a masked with often masked are
often timbales are Garnished timbales Garnished sauce can can be be or the the
sauce ingredient; or the main main ingredîenl; with the character with character
cro0tes of served on on croûtes of be served timbales can can be These timbales
separately. These served separately. served hearts. artichoke hearts. on artichoke
or on in butter, butter, or fried in bread fried bread smalltimba/escan be which
follow, follow, smalJ recipes which from the the recipes Apart fram Apart timbales
can be and Croquettes and as Barque/les, Barquettes, Croquetles way as garnished in
same way in the the same garnished (see above). above). Croustades (see Croustades
with moulds with the buttered buttered moulds Decorate the I'rmiral -- Decorate
Timbales à l'amiral Timbales (see FORCEFORCEFish forcemeat fine Fish line with with
fine and Une trufres and forcemeat (soc truffles MEATS). MEATS). and (q.v.) of
oysters and tails, oysters of crayfisb crayfish tails, salpicon (q.v.) Fill with
with aa salpicon Fil! (se SAUCE) on based on SAUCE) based sauce (see Velouti sauce
wth Velouté blended with truffies blended truffles (see BUTTER, butter (sœ Crayfish
bu/ter with Crayfish finished with stock and and finished fish stock fish fish
farcemeat, forcemeat, poach, with the the fish Cover with butters\. Cover Compound
bUl/ers). Compound (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (sec Normande sauce serve wilh with
Normande and serve and the Sprinkle the BAGRATIoN - Sprinkle TIMBALEs BAGRATION
timbales. TIMBALES Bagration timbales.. Bagration and chopped, choppod, trufres and
chopped truffies with chopped moulds with buttered moulds bultered fine Chicken
Chicken with aa fine Line them thern with pickled or tongue. Une or smoked smoked
tongue. pickled

-
HORSE HORSE BUTCHERY BUTCHER y
forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill Fil! with diced macaroni,
macaroni, forcemeat blended blendcd with with cream, crcam, to to which which a a
salpicon of of truffies trumes and chopped choppcd tongue tongue has has been been
added. added. Finish Finish in the usual usual way way and serve serve with SuprAme
Suprême sauce sauce (sw (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Beauvilliers Beauvilliers timbales.
timbales. TTMBALES TIMBALES BEALTwLLTERS BEAUVILLIER.<; - Line buttered buttered
moulds mou Ids with with an an unsweetened unsweetened Brioche dough dough (see
(see DOUGH). DOUGH). Bake Bake and leave leave to cool. Empty Empty the the
brioches, brioches, leaving leaving a crust 5 mm. (f (t inch) thick. Warm breast
Warm slightly slightly in in the the oven. oyen. Fill Fill them them with with a a
salpicon salpicon of ofbreast of of chicken chicken and truffies trumes blended
blended with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put a bouquet bouquet of
of asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked in in butter on on each each timbale.
timbale. Timbales à l'6picurienne l'épicurienne - Sprinkle the the buttered
buttered moulds moulds with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and line line them them
with a layer layer of of rice, rice, cooked in which chopped added. This in meat
meat stock, stock, to towhich chopped truffies trumes have have been beenadded.
This layer layer should should cover coyer the the sides of the the moulds moulds
evenly and be be about about 5 mm. (* (t inch) inch) thick. thick. Fill Fill with
with a a salpicon salpicon of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies
trumes and and scarlet scarlet tongue tongue blended blended with Mushroom Mushroom
purrie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Coyer the the salpicon salpicon with
with a layer layer of of the the rice rice cooked in in meat meat stock. Cook these
these small timbales timbales in in the the oven oven for 8 8 minutes. minutes.
Leave Leave them them to to settle set Ile a little little before before turning
turning out. Serve Serve with with Tomato TomalO sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA
UCE). Timbales Timbales Il la la fermilre fermière - Butter Butter the the moulds
moulds and coat with with a a brunoise brunoise (q.v.) (g.v.) of of vegetables
vegetables cookod cooked in in butter. butter. Line Line with with a a thin lhin
layer layer of of forcemeat, forcemeat, and fill fill with with a macidoine
macédoine (q.v.) (g.v.) of vegetables vegetables mixed mixed with with thick thick
Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Serve emi-g lace sauce
Serve with with a a light light D Demi-glace sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Timbales Timbales Il la la milanaise milanaise - Butter Butler the the moulds
moulds and and line line with with macaroni macaroni cooked cooked in in water,
water, drained drained and and dried. dried. Lay Lay the the macaroni macaroni in a
a spiral shape shape against against the the sides sides of of the the moulds.
moulds. Cover Cover them them with with a a thin thin layer layer of of fine fine
Chicken Chicken or or Veal Veal forceforcemeat meat (see (see FORCEMEATS).
FORCEMEATS). Fill Fil! with with a a salpicon salpicon of ofpickled pickled or or
smoked smoked tongue, tongue, lean lean ham, ham, truffies truffles and and
mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with rich rich tomato-flavoured tomalo-
fiavoured (se SAUCE). Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce(see SA UCE). Servewith
Serve with tomato-flavoured tomato-fiavoured demi-glace demi-glace sauce. sauce.
Timbales Timbales i Il la la Montrouge Montrouge - Decorate Decoratc the Ihe
buttered buttered moulds mou Ids with lean ham ham and and line line with with fine
fine Chickm Chicken forcemeat forcemeat (se (sec with lean FORCEMEATS).
FORCEMEATS). Garnish Garnish witha with a salpicon salpicon of of chicken chicken
mixed mixed with Mushroom Mushroom purie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Serve
Serve with Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). sauce (see Timbales
Timbales il Il la la nantuatienne nantuatiemre - Decorate Deco ra te buttered
butlered moulds mou Ids with Line them and truffies. truffles.Line them with with a
a fine Fish Fish with crayfish crayfish tails tails and (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEM
EATS) with with Crayfish Crayfish butter bwter (see (sec forcemeat (see forcemeat
BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Fill FiJI with with crayfish
crayfish pur6e purée (see (sec PUREE, PURÉE, Shrimp Shrimp purie) purée) to to
which which a a salpicon salpicon of of crayfish crayfish tails tails has added.
Serve Serve with with Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE). has been
been added. Timbales Timbales I Il h la pi6montaise piémontaise - Decorate Decorate
the the buttered buttered moulds moulds with with pickled pickled or or smoked
smoked tongue longue and and truffies trumes cut cut into into very very small
risotto made made with with saffron, saffron, to to which which a a fine fine small
dice. dice. Fill FiJI with with risotto julienne julienne (q.v.) (g.v.) of of white
white truffies truffies has has been been added. added. Serve Serve with with
Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales I Il la la
polonaise polonaise - Butter Butter the the moulds moulds and and line tine with
with strips strips cut cut from from thin thin unsweetened unsweetened pancakes
pancakes (crdpes). (crépes). Add Add a a light of Chickenforcemeat Chicken
forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) with with light layer layer of cream.
cream. Fill Fill with with a a puree purée of of brains brains to to which which
chopped chopped truffies trumes have have been been added. added. Serve Serve with
with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales à
la la printanilre printanière Cook Cook carrots, carrots, turnips turnips and and
French French beans. beans. Cool, Cool, and and cut eut into into short short
narrow narrow strips. strips. Decorate Decorate the the buttered buttered moulds
rnoulds with with these. these. Line Line with with a a thin thin coating r c eme
at (see ne I le fo coating of of Que Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS).
FORCEMEATS). Fill daine of vegetables blended c hame I Fill with with a a macd
macédoine ofvegetables blended with with Bi Béchamel sauce (sec SAUCE). SAUCE).
Serve Serve with with a a light Jight Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see
sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales iIl la la Rossini Rossini - Decorate
Decorate the the buttered buttered moulds moulds with with trufres trumes and and
line line them them with with fine fine Chickm Chicken or or Veal Vealforcemeat
forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS).

Fill with a salpicon salpicon of offoie foie gras and truffies trumes blended
blended with a rich Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Serve with demi-glace
demi-glace sauce sauce flavortred flavourcd with witb trufle trume essence.
essence. Timbales Timbales t Il la la Saint-Hubert - Decorate Decorate the the
buttered bultered moulds moulds with with chopped chopped trufres trumes and and
chopped, chopped, pickled pickled or smoked tongue, tongue, and and line line them
them with Game forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEA T). Fill Fill
with a a salpicon salpicon of of game to to which which truffies trumes and
mushrooms mushrooms have have been bcen added. added. Blend Blend with
DemiDemiglace glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) based based on on
concentrated concentrated game game stock. Serve with with demi-glace demi-glace
sauce sauce basd based on concentrated game game
stock. Polish valesniki. vALESNIKIS VALESNIKIS poloNArs POLONAIS - To 125 125 g. (4
oz., oz., Polish add 125 t cup) white white pressed pressed cream cheese, add 125
g. (4 oz., oz., * i cup) cup) well-softened well-soflened butter. butter. Season
with with salt, pepper pepper and and grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Add I 1 egg egg and
mix mix well. weil. Divide Divide into into portions portions of of 50 50 to to 75
75 g. (2 to to 3 3 oz.). oz.). Put Put each portion portion on on a small, thin,
thin, unsweetened unsweetened pancake pancake @rApe). (crêpe). Fold over and and
dip in butter. butter. Deep-fry Deep-fry in in very very hot hot fat, fat, drain,
and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine salt. Garnish Gamish with with fried
fried parsley. parsley. Lithuanian Lithuaman vareniki. vareniki. vlnfNxn VARÉNIKlS
LrruANrnl.rs LITUANIENS - Chop Chop a a large finely and cook in butter. butter.
When When it has has turned turned a a large onion finely golden golden colour
colom add add 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) raw raw fillet fillel of of beef beefand
and 125 g. (4 (4 oz.) raw, raw, finely finely chopped beef beef kidney kidney fat.
Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Brown
Brown the the meat, meat, blend blend with with 2 tablespoons spoons (3 (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thick Bicharnel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add I 1 tablespoon tabJespoon choppd chopped parsley. parsley.
Make Make a a noodle noodle paste paste (see (sec NOODLES, NOODLES, Fresh Fresh
noodles). noodles). Cut into 6 cm. into squares squares of of6 cm. (2f (2i inches)
inches) and and put put in in the Ihe middle middle of of each each square square a
portion portion of of the the above above mixture mixture as as for for ravioli.
ravioli. Poach Poach these vareniki vareniki in in salted boiling boiling water
water for 15 15 to to 18 18 minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain, put put in in a a dish
dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melled butter. butter.

HORSE HORSE BLICIIERY. BUT CHERY. rnppopuAclE HIPPOPHAGIE

horses horses for for human human consumption. consumption. Horseflesh, Horseflesh,
forbidden forbidden in in Mosaic Mosaic law, law, was was eaten eaten from from
time time immemorial immemorial in in Tartary Tartary and and northern northern
lands. lands. For For centuries centuries it it has has been been the the principal
principal food food of of the the Gaucho Gaucho Indians Indians of of South South

The The slaughter slaughter of of

America. America. For For a a very very long long time time the the Teutons,
Teutons, too, 100, lived lived on on horsemeat, horsemeat, and and continued
continued to to do do so so until until their their conversion conversion to to
Christianity. Christianity. The The people people of of Paris Paris have have
always always eaten eaten horsemeat, horsemeat, in in spite spi te of of numerous
numerous eighteenth-century eighteenth-century police police ordinances ordinances
forbidforbidding ding its ils sale sale in in the the hope hope of of 'preventing
'preventing those those diseases diseases which which the the consumption
consumption of of such su ch meat meat cannot cannot fail fail to to induce'.
induce'. In In spite spi te of of the the fact fact that that horsemeat horsemeat
was was in in use use during during the the critical critical revolutionary
revolutionary period, period, the the order order prohibiting prohibiting its its
sale sale was was rereenacted enacted in in 1803, 1803, and and again aga in in in
l8ll. 1811. There There followed followed special special orders orders permitting
perrnitting the the use use of of horsehorsemeat meat as as animal animal food,
food, especially especiaJly for for the the animals animaIs in in the the zoo. zoo.
The The interdict interdict was was finally finally revoked revoked about about
1830. 1830. This This followed followed reports reports by by Parmentier Parmentier
and and Parent-Duchatelet, Parent-Duchatelet. arising arising out out of of the the
publicly publicly expressed expressed views views of of Baron Baron Larrey, Larrey,
who who had had used used horsemeat horsemeat extensively extensively to to feed
feed his his wounded wounded men men during during the the Napoleonic Napoleonic
wars. wars. After After the the battle battle of of Eylau, Eylau, being being
entirely entirely cut cut off off from from supplies supplies on on the the Isle
Isle of of Lobau, Lobau, he he made made soup soup of of it it in in the the
breastplates of of the the dismounted dismounted cavalry, cavalry, and and seasoned
seasoned it it with with breastplates gunpowder gunpowder in in place place of of
salt. salt. More More provident provident than than the the rest, rest, he he had
had kept kept a a little little salt salt for for himself, himself, and and was was
thus thus able able to to invite invite Marshall Marshall Mass6na Masséna to to
share share his his hotpot. hOlpol. At At the the instigation instigation of of
Geoffrey-Saint-Hilaire, Geoffrey-Saint-Hilaire, there there folfollowed propaganda
campaign campaign in in favour Cavour of of horsemeat. horsemeat. This This lowed a
a propaganda was was crowned crowned with with success success when when on on 6 6
February February 1865, 1865, a a horsemeat horsemeat banquet banquet was was held
held at at the the Grand Grand Hotel. Hote!. In In the the following following
year, year, on on 9 9 July, July, another another horsemeat horsemeat banquet
banquet took took place place at at the the establishment establishment of of
Lemardelay, Lemardelay, a a Paris Paris horse horse butcher. butcher. Since then,
then, horsemeat horsemeat has has become become more more and and more more
popupopuSince
488 488
HYSSOP
lar, lar, and the the number number of of horse horse butchers butchers has has
greatly greatly increased. increased. A variety of of recipes recipes for beef beef
(q.v.) (q.v.) can be be used used for horsehorsemeat. meal.

potch. potch. (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Oxtail
Oxlail en en
hochepot). hochepot).

The The French French hochepot hochepot may may be be derived derived from from the
the verb verb

HORSE CHESTNUT. CHESTNlJT. HORSE

MARRoN MARRON D'INDE - Seed Seed fruit, fruit. very

ri ch in starch. Once Once the acid has has been been extracted from l'rom it, the
the rich can be be made into flour suitable for human human horse chestnut can
consumption. consumption.

HORSE PARSLEY. MACERoN MACERON - Herbaceous plant plant of the strong aromatic
aromatic umbelliferous group. group. This This herb herb has has a a strong
umbelliferous fragrance similar to that that of parsley. It grows wild wild by the
especially in cool and shady shady places. roadside and in ditches, especially corn
mon horse horse parsley parsley is fairly prolific pralific in the south of of The
common
this plant former times, the root root of ofthis plant was eaten. The France. In
former as a lcaves of the horse parsley are used in cooking as tender leaves
substitute for parsley. parsley. substitute

HORSERADISH. HORSERADISH. nlnonr RAIFORT - Plant originating 06ginating in the

East, East, growing growing both wild and cultivated. cultivated. Its 115
cylindrical root, root, brown sharp and piqirant outside, white inside, has a sharp
piquant flavour and a as a condivery penetrating penetrating smell. This root is
used grated as condicalled favourite in in Germany Germany (where it it is is
cal/ed a great favourite ment. It is a of dishes. accompanies a wide range of
'German mustard') mustard') and accompanies butters. Compound huI/ers. BUTTER,
Compound Horseradish butter - See BUTTER, clNlpfs DE i I'anglaise. Canapés
horseradish à l'anglaise. CANAPÉS DE RAIFoRT RAIFORT Canapes of horseradish slices
of of black bread with butter r'ANcr^lls À L'ANGLAISE A - Spread thin slices chives
have and chopped chives to which which English mustard and have been English
mustard to and surround with a added. added. Cover with grated horseradish and
hard-boiled egg yolks. border of chopped, hard-boiled a root nApf and peel a
RAIFoRT RÂPÉ Grated horseradish. RAIFORT - Wash and an horshorseradish. Grate on on
a a cheese-grater. Serve in an of horseradisb. d'uuvre dish as aceompaniment
accompaniment to boiled meat or cold meat. d'œuvre roeal. AU RAfFOR RAIFoRT sAUcE
Albert sauce (hot). SA Horseradish Horseradish sauce or Albert UCE AU T grated
horseradish 4 teaspoons DITE teaspoons grated DIrE ALBERT-SAUCE ALBERT-sAUcE - Cook
4 Add 21 2t dl. dl. ($ pinto pint, scant cup) white white consommé. consomm6. Add
scant cup) in 2 2 dl. dl. Ü in (see SA (scant 1 generous cup) SAUCE). cup) Buller
Butter sauce II (seant Il (sec UCE). I pint, generous yolks. Add Add 1 I teaBind
with with 2 2 egg egg yolks. sieve. Sind Boil down and and sieve. Boil down spoon
mustard blended with 2 teaspoons wine vinegar. Serve with boiled or braised beef.
grated RAIFoRT sAUcE AU RAIFORT Horseradish sauce (cold). SAUCE - Mix grated and
squeezed horseradish with breadcrumbs soaked in milk and cream and and Add thick
thick cream sugar. Add and sugar. with salt salt and dry. dry. Season Season with
vinegar.
jewel of hospital - a jewel of HOSPICE DE BEAUNE - The Beaune hospitalRolin,
Nicolas Rolin. 1443 by Nicolas was founded in 1443 Gothic architecture - was Bon.
chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe le Boo. is the result result of The
vinicultural district district called the Hospices is in is situated in charitable
charitable donations donations made to the hospital, and is de Beaune. C6te de one
of of the best regions of the Côte Hospices wines wines lakes takes public auction
the Hospices auction of of the The Camous famous public The all over over the
world, come from aU place every every November. Buyers come honour-bound to
themselves honour-bound wiliJe while restaurateurs consider themselves although
'Hospice because allhough vat of of Hospices wine because purchase a a vat
contr6lie,the appellation contrôlée, not boast special appellation Beaune'does
boasta de does nol a special the de Beaune' lustre. gives the added lustre. an
added the wine an alone gives name alone HocltEpor - This This is is a a corruption
corruption of of the the HOTCH-POTCH. HOCHEPOTHOTCH-POTCH. pigs' ears givan in ears
a fatty fatty broth from pigs' broth made from in France France to to a name given
of mullan. mutton, salt salt and shoulder shoulder of and tails, tails, breast of
of beef, breast and and carrots, vegetables, mainly cabbage. cabbage, carroIs, and
mixed mixed sliced sliced vegetables, bacon, and (See SOUPS, potatoes. (See
Hochepot à d la Ia SOUPS, Hochepot onions, leeks leeks and and potaloes. onions,
flamande.) flamande.) a hotchis called called a stew which which is oxtail stew
There is is also a spiced spiced oxtail There also a

prepared prepared as follows. follows. Put Put in in a a stewing stewing pot pot I
1 kg. kg. (2+ (2* lb.) lb.) boned boned shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton and
and I 1 kg. kg. (2+ (2* lb.) lb.) rump of of beef. beef. Cover with with cold co Id
water water and bring bring it it to the boil. Remove Remove scum, add salt, and
and simmer simmer for 2 hours. hours. Put a celeriac celeriac cut cul into inlo
quarters quarters into inlo the Ihe pot, add I 1 small cabbage, cabbage, I 1 large
onion with with 2 cloves, the the pot, add white part of of 4leeks tied in a
bundle, bundle, 2 turnips,4 turnips, 4 carrots carroL~ and and white part a clove
of of garlic. Simmer together for 35 minutes. Add Add 200 200 g. g. (7 oz.,l| oz.,
1* cups) cups) potatoes potaloes cut eut into pieces, pieces, 150 150 g. g. (5 (5
oz., J t cup) cup) diced (6 tablespoons) fresh fresh diced French French beans,
beans, 5 5 tablespoons (6 cut into a lettuce cut white beans, a into quarters,
quarters, and and a a handful handful of of fresh peas. peas. Cook Cook all ail
these these ingredients together on a a low heat. heat. HUSK. HUSK. cRUAU GRUAU -
The part part of the wheat wheat encasing the grain. It It is the most nourishing
part and the richest in part of of the wheat and gluten. The husk In the gluten.
The husk is is also the toughest toughest part part of of the wheat. wheat.ln first
t'irst stage stage of of milling it it is very very coarsely coarsely ground.
ground. At At the second grinding, ground finer grinding. the tbe husks busks are
ground t'iner to produce produce wholemeal flour from which wholemeal bread is
made. grain by a The outer casings of of oats, oats. separated from from the grain
a (Oat husks special milling are also also called called husks. special milliog
process, process, are husks. (Oat of bread.) When the husks are cannot be used used
in the making making of grain is smoothed removed from barley and and the grain
smootheJ it it becomes pearl barley. The French word for for husk, gruau, is also
given to a very pasta, made from small pasta, ~rom potatoes, potatoes, which looks
like sago.

hocher, hocher, to shake. Meats Meats of of various various kinds kinds cooked in
in a sauce sauce thern from sticking. are'shaken' are 'shaken' in the the pot pot
to to prevent preventlhem slicking. Hotcbpotch soup Hotch-potch (Scottish cookery)
- Scottish national soup

from honey, used by A drink drink made HYDROMEL HYDROMEL made l'rom honey. much
much used -A a solution solution of of Plain hydromel the Greeks Greeks and and
Romans. Plain the hydromel is is a (mead) is the result of of the honey in water.
Vinous hydromel hydromel (mead) diluted with with t'ive five limes times its of
honey alcoholic fermentation fermentation of alcoholjc honey Jiluted of 11 11" to
to 13°. l3'. It has an alcoholic alcoholic content of volume of water. lt has an
following recipe: Hydromel may be made according to the following Hydromel (22
gallons, 271 gallons) water 27t gallons) to 50°C. 50'C. Heat 100 litres (22 Heat
100 litres water ta (110 lb.) honey. (122"F.) Add 50 kg. a copper kettle. AdJ (1 22
F.) in a kg. (110 the water of the raise the the temperature of Gradually raise
water to to boiling into point, taking care liquid constantly. Pour Pour into to
skim skim the liquid care to point, quite cold, transfer 10 is quite to a it is a
vat vat and and leave to cool. When it a Draw for 5 5 to 6 6 weeks. Draw must be
left to ferment for barrel where it must hydromel. the hydromel. off the It can
aiso also he be used from hydromel. It Spirits can can be distilled distilled from
Spirits in the the manufacture manufacture of vinegar. in
0
Q

for measuring Instrument for HYDROMETER. AR.EOMÈTRE mfolvrirnn -- Instrument

HYDROMETER. principally used Hydrometers are principally used for the comparison
comparison density. Hydrorneters density. and variable volume. densities at a a
constant weight and of liquid densities placed in liquid under in the the liquid
These instruments, on being being placed instruments, on These graduated stems,
simple reading of their graduated by a simple examination, bya givur temperature.
Special Special tables for a a given show the the density density for show
operating at at a a to be made when operating necessary adjustments enable
necessary adjustments ta enable There are are many of of these these instruments
instruments different temperature. temperature. There different (syrup gauge,
gauge, salinometer, salinometer, acidimeter, acidimetern alcoholoin existence
(syrup ln centesimal alcoholomeler alcoholometer Only the the Gay-Lussac etc.).
Only meter, etc.). Gay-Lussac centesimal meter, France. is legal legal in in
France. is
pungent aromatic plant with aromatic with a a pungent Small plant HysopE -- Small
HYSSOP. HYSOPE It is used in in the the distillation distillation flavour. lt smell
and and a a slightly slightly bitter flavour. smell particular, in in the the
composition composition of of In particular, liqueurs. ln of liqueurs. of a a
number of of the elixir elixir of of Grande-Chartreuse. Grande-Chartreuse. the

489 489
IBEX. BOUQUETIN Bouer.rrrrN -- A A type goat which type of of wild wild goat which
lives lives in in the the IBEX. high mounlains. mountains. It It is is becoming
becoming increasingly increasingly rare rare in in Europe. Europe. high
ICE. crecs -- Water Water in in ils its solid solid state. state. lce Ice used used
in in conjunction conjunction ICE. GLACE with food food oughl yield drinking ought
10 to yield drinking water water when when melted. melted. To To with analyse the
ice, wash a cube with distilled water and melt it. analyse the ice. wash a cube
with distilled water and mell it. Test as for drinking water. Test as for drinking
water.

Indians, Persians and and the Arabs. Indians, the the Persians the Arabs. Ice
ereams creams and and water were introducod lce water ices iees were introduced
into into France France procopio. Some about the the year 1660 by by a a Sicilian,
Sicilian, Francisco Francisco Procopio. about year 1660 Sorne years ten opened a
caf1 in in Paris, des ten years later la ter he he opened a café Paris, in in the
the rue rue des Foss6s-Saint-Germain (now the rue de I'Ancienne-Com6die). Fossés-
Saint-Germain (now the rue de l' Ancienne-Coméd ie). It (who had It was was here
here that that Procopio Procopio (who had changed changed his his name name to to
the the more Gallic-sounding Procope) Procope) sold more Gallic-sounding sold
variously variously flavoured flavoured ice ice creams and water ices to the
Parisians, who acquired a taste creams and water ices to the Parisians, who
acquired a taste for for these these sweets, sweets, still still a a novelty
novelty to to them. them. procope's Other Other Parisian Parisian limonadiers
limonadiers quickly quickly followed followed Proeope's example, and soon there
were so many of them thet,rn 1676, example, and soon there were so many of them
that, in 1676, il was was necessary necessary to to give give statutory statutory
recognition recognition to to their their corporation corporation and and to to
authorise authorise its ilS members members officially officially to to sell sell
ice iee creams and water ices. It is said that there were in paris, at crea ms and
water iees. Jt is said that there were in Paris, at that time, that time,
250limonadiers 250 limonadiers who who were were selling selling ices. ices. Until
Until about about the the middle middJe of of the the eighteenth eighteenth
century, century, ices ices were only sold in Paris in the summer. In 1750,
procope's were only sold in Paris in the summer. .In 1750, Procope's suc@ssor,
Buisson, started making ices all the year round. successor, Buisson, started ma
king ices al! the year round. His His competitors competitors at at once once
followod followed suit. suit. But But the the ices ices were were of of poor
quality. li was po or quality. It was not not until until 1776 1776 that that ices
ices more more delicate delicate in in flavour began to to be be made. made. These
These had had more more body body than than those those flavour began of of earlier
earlier times tin1es and and could could be be moulded moulded into into different
different shapes. shapes. It was It was about about this this time time
thatfromages, thatfromages, as as well weil as as a a numbei number of of frozen
desserts, were invented. Some of these are still made frozen desserts, were inven
ted. Sorne of these are still made today. today. Although Although the the Romans
Romans used used to to cool cool drinks drinks with with ice ice or or snow, this
practice was not introduced into France until the snow, this practice was not
introduced into France until the seventeenth century, and even then it was only
adopted by seventeenth century, and even then il was only adopted by persons of
great refinement. persons of great refinement. In In the the Dictionnaire
Dictionnaire de de Monnet,1636, Monnel, 1636, the the word word glaciire glacière
(ice (ice chest) does not even appear. Yet some forty years later the chest) does
not even appear. Yet sorne forry years later the custom custom of ofdrinking
drinkingiced iced wines wines was was so so general general in in France France
that that any one any departure departure from from it it was was much much frowned
frowned upon, upon, if if one may may judge from what Boileau says in his Repas
ridicule: judge l'rom what Boileau says in his Repas ridicule: Mais Mais qui
quil'aurait l'auraitpense? pense?Pour Pour comble comble de de disgrdce, disgrâce,
Par chaudqu'il qu'ilfasait, fasait, nous nousn'avions n'avionspoint point de
deglace, glace, Par Ie le chaud

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. GLACES cLAcEs -- Flavoured Flavoured iees
ices have have ICE been made since the very earliest times, and it is generally
been made since the very earliest times, and it is generally recognised that that
the Arabs and and the the Chinese Chinese knew knew the the art art of of
recognised the Arabs making iced iced sweets, sweets, especially especially water
(sherbets). The water iees ices (sherbets). The making Chinese, it is said, said,
taught art of of ice ice cream cream making making to to the the Chinese, it is
taught the the art

it

glace, bon Point de de glace, bon Dieu Dieu 1 ! Dans Dans le I'6tb, le fort de /'
Point été, fort de juin ... Au mois mois de de juin ... Au 'The worst worst
ofdisasters. of disasters. But who who would would have have thought il? it? 'The
'In spite spite of of the the heat, heat, we we had had no no ice. ice. 'In 'No
ice, good God! ice, good At the height of God! At of the summer, summer, 'No 'In
the the month month of June. . .' of June 'In .... At the the end end of of the
eighteenth eighteenth century, century, the manufacture of of iees ices At
developed considerably, considerably, especially especially in in Paris. This was
was the age developed which saw saw the the invention invention of of the the ice
ice bombe. bombe. Il It was was soon soon the the which custom to glacie at to
serve serve a a bombe bombe glacée at the the end end of of any any fonnal formal
custom palaismeal, and the the savouring savouring of of ices ices at at the cafes
of of the the Palaismeal, and the cafés Royal had this time become fashionable.
Royal had by by this During the the period of the First Empire, Empire, thanks
thanks to to the During period of the Fust Italian ice cream manuflacturers,
Italian ice eream manufacturers, of whom there were were many in ice cream and
water ices of of various kinds improved improved in Paris, Paris. iee still further
quality. Ices a basic still further in in quality. lces began to to be be made from
a mixture of egg egg yolks syrup, which led to the creation of mixture of yolks and
syrup, more more elaborate elaborate sweets. These took took the place of
cylindrical ice cream blocks blocks at at formal formaI dinners. ice cream Pratti
Tortoni became Pratti and and Tortoni became famous famous for the delicacv
de1icaey of of their ices. ices. Under Under the the Second Empire Empire
the'surprise the 'surprise omelette', omelette', somesometimes times called called
omelette omelelle d à la la norvigienne, norvégienne, was was invented. This This
remarkable remarkable sweet, sweet, with with a centre of of cold fruit fruit and
and ice ice cream and and a a hot hot crust crust of of meringue meringue browned
browned in in the the oven, oyen, was was cleverly cleverly devised devised to to
produce produce a gastronomic gastronomie paradox, paradox, a a ball bail of ice
ice in in a a piping piping hot hot casing. casing. (See (See EGGS, EGGS, Omelette
Omelelte d à la norvigienne.) Under the the Second Second Empire, Empire, too, too,
coupes, coupes, norvégienne.) Under mousses, mousses, and, and parfaits parfaits
were were first tirst made. made. The The manufacture manufacture of of ices, ices,
sherbets and and ice ice creams creams has has developed developed into into an an
industry industry of of some sorne magnitude magnitude being, being, as as it it
is, is, an an important important outlet out let for for agricultural agricultural
dairy dairy produce, produce, eggs eggs and and fruit. fruit. The The enormous
enormous advances advances made made by by the the refrigeration refrigeration
industries industries have have resulted resulted in in much much improved
improved. methods methods of of manufacture, manufacture, conservation conservation
and and distribution. distribution. Domestic Domestic appliances, appliances, too,
too, have have been been considerably considerably improved. improved. The The
manufacture manufacture of of ice ice cream cream products, products, now now
mainly mainly automatic, automatic, is is carried carried out out under under
strictly strictJy hygienic hygienic conditions. conditions. Electrically-operated
Electrically-operated ice ice cream cream freezers freezers are are available
available for for domestic domestic use. use. General General method method for for
the the preparation preparation of ofices ices- UsW Using a a churn churn Having
prepared prepared the the appropriate appropriate mixture mixture (for (for syrup
syrup freezer. Having freezer. ice ice or or cre:lm eream ice), iee), pour pour it
it into into a a metal metal freezer freezer lodged lodged in in a a bucket bucket
containing containing layers layers of of chipped chipped ice, ice, salt salt and
and saltpetre. saltpetre. This This mixture mixture should should be be well well
pressed pressed down down in in the the bucket. bucket. Replace Replace the the lid
lid and and start star! to to churn, ch urn, continuing continuinguntil until
freezing freezing is is accomplished. accomplished. 490 490
TCE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES

Ifa a hand-operated hand-operated churn churn freezer freezer is is used used close
close it it tightly. tightly. If Tum it it up up first first one one way way and
and then then the the other other by by the the handle handle Turn attached to to
the the lid. lid. This This operation operation throws throws some sorne of of the
the attached mixture against against the the sides sides of of the the frqzer
freezer so so that that it it solidifies. solidifies. mixture istherefore therefore
necessary necessary from from time time to to time time to to scrape scrape the the
sides sides Itis It of the the freezer freezer with with a a special special
spatula spatula and and mix mix the the frozen frozen ice ice of During the the
freezing freezing process, process, stir stir the the cream with with the the rest.
rest. During cream mixture mixture thoroughly thoroughly with with the the spatula
spatula so so that that it it remains remains smooth and and creamy. creamy. smooth
Using a a food food freezer. freezer. Ice !ce cream cream mixtures mixtures can can
be be frozen frozen Using quickly and easily easily in in a a household household
food food freezer. freezer. This This does does not not quickly and produce produce
the the same sa me perfect perfect texture texture as as an an ice ice cream cream
churn churn freezer, but but if if the the mixture mixture is is frozen frozen
quickly quickly and and stirred stirred fre,ezer, frequently, satisfactory
satisfactory results results can can be be obtained. obtained. frequently,
Presentation of of ices ices - Ice lce cream cream and and water water ices ices
can can be be Presentstion in many many different different ways. ways. They They
can can be be shaped with with a presented in presented bali-scoop and and served
served in in shells shells or or in in special special glasses, glasses, or or -
still ball-scoop shaped with with a a ball-scoop bali-scoop - formd formed into
into a a pyramid pyramid on a dish shaped napkin or or paper paper doyley. doyley.
covered with with a a folded folded napkin covered ices can can also also be be
transferred, transferred, after after Ice cream cream and and water ices Ice
freezing, to to special special moulds moulds which which are conical in shape.
shape. These freezing, are hermetically hermetically sealed and placed, placed,
with their their contents, in a ice and and bucket where they are packed round with
chopped ice bucket ensure that the the ices are are quite firm fion when they they
are salt. To ensure salt. the moulds, mou Ids, they they should be left left in in
the the ice should be turned out of the bucket for at least I 1 hour. bucket over
the out these ices, ices, run run cold water rapidly over cold water To turn out
wann mould. Dip it for a second into warm water. This will warm sides. Tip the
detach the ice from the sides. and detach the mould slightly slightly and
carefully, leaving mould upside upside down on a dish and lift it up carefulIy, the
ice the ice cream in the centre of the dish. way as as same way Ices can in the the
same prepared in in small moulds in can be prepared those shaped shapod in large
moulds. those Small moulds are available in a variety of shapes. When with butter.
sealed with are sealed edges are their edges filled, their are filled, they are
When they and They are ice and of crushed crushed ice a bucket of are then pressed
down into a salt, ice cream cream moulds. salt, like other types of ice
Electric Electric churn churn freezer freezer 'Sirem' 'Sirem'

(Nicohs) (Nicolas)

cotrrICE MIXTURES. COMICE MIXTURES. WATER ICE AND WATER ICE CREAM CREAM AND pouR
GLACES kinds: POSITIONS posITIoNs POUR three kinds: of three These are are of
DIvERsEs -- These cLAcEs DIVERSES ices of water ices those preparation ofwater in
the the preparation usod in base, used syrup base, with a a syrup those with with a
a flavoured those with liqueurs; those or liqueurs; essences or fruit juices,
essences with fruitjuices, flavourod with yolks, sugar and custard sugar and of egg
egg yolks, a mixture mixture of from a made from base, made custard base, milk;
base. mousse base. a mousse with a those with milk; and and those fruit the fruit
Mixture Rub the FRtlITs -- Rub ALx FRUITS cu,cr AUX ices. GLACE fmit ices. for
fruit Mixtrre for pur6e (peeled the purée to the Add to sieve. Add a fine fine
sieve. through a (peeled if necessary) through if necessary) (4 cups thus Id sugar
cups syrup (4 sugar syrup quantity of cold of co equal quantity an equal obtained
an tlus obtained sugar and cooled) and and cooled) 5 minutes minutesand for 5 water
boiled boiled for 2 cups cups water sugar and and 2 pur6e. add juice according
fruit purée. of the the fruit nature of to the the nature lemon juice accordlng to
add lemon Mix possible testing the testing the ice, where where possible on ice,
ingredients on Mix ail all these these ingredients sugar Fruit saccharometer. Fruit
with aa saccharometer. mixture with the mixture of the sugar content content of
ices density standard density registering aastandard mixture registering made from
from aa mixture ices are are made of to 22°. of 18° l8'to22". Fruit prepared thus:
thus: beprepared mayalso also be Fruit ices ices may Pound (l I oz., g.(lI cups) lt
cups) oz., I~ with300 300g. mortar with inaamortar Pound the fruit in the fruit

cssences. and essences. liquam and with liqueurs ices Oavoured flavoured witb for
ices Mxtrre for Mixture or liqueur or Add the the liqueur - Add (see SYRUP).
Usually, SYRUP). Usually, syrup (see sugar syrup cold sugar desired to to coJd
essence desired essence for every every required for liqueuris (6 tablespoons,
scant+cup) I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1 t cup) liqueur is required juice lemon
juice A little little lemon quart) syrup. syrup. A generous quart) (scant quart,
quart, generous litre (scant litre to this mixture. is added to is with flavoured
with of ices ices flavoured ingredients of the basic basic ingredients These are
are the These cherry Curagao, cherry cac6o, Curaçao, de cacao, Crdme de Armagnac,
Crème anisette, Armagnac, anisette, liqueur. any other other liqueur. or any
maraschino, or rum, maraschino, kirsch, rum, brandy, kirsch, brandy, possible
whenever possible this mixture mixture whenever ices, this fruit ices, case of of
fruit As in in the the case As register should register which should saccharometer,
which a saccharometer, with a be tested tested with must be must 18" and and22'.
between 18° between 22°. in aa (custarQ. GLACE m CRÈME cniw -- Place Place in a LA
cLAcE À mix0rre (custard). Ice cream cream mixture Ice yolks. l0bgg and 10 (l I
oz., sugar and fine sugar g. (lI Ltcups) oz., I~ saucepan 300 300 g. cups) fine
'egg yolks. saucepan ribbon reaches ribbon it reaches until it spatula until with
aa spatula mixture with this mixture Work this Work ribbon). like aa ribbon). (when
it spatula like off the the spatula it drops drops off consistency (when
consistency quart) generousquart) (If, pints, pints, generous litre (li I litre
little, 1 little by by little, Blend in in little Blend until it it stirring until
stove, the st on the Cook on milk. Cook boiling milk. flavoured boiling flavoured
ove, stirring to the theboil boilor or tocome come to beallowed allowed to not be
It must must not the spoon. spoon. It coats the coats will curdle. curdle. mixture
will the mixture the from Stir from bowl. Stir sieve into intoaa bowl. fineconical
conical sieve Rub through through aa fine Rub quite cold. cold. it is isquite until
it to time time until time to time (14oz., g.(14 cups) 400g. oz.,lf is400 used is
commonly used The mixture most commonly mixture most The li;cups) quart) (lf pints,
pints,generous generous quart) yolks to litre(li to11litre eggyolks and 88egg fine
sugar sugar and fine producingaafirm, creamy firm, creamy good recipe,
recipe,producing verygood isaavery Thisis milk. This milk. flavouring
liquidflavouring addedaaliquid may be beadded which may towhich sweet, to not too
toosweet, ice, not ice, risk without risk other) without orany anyother) (brandy,
rum, Chartreuseor kirsch, Chartreuse rum, kirsch, (brandy, up making up andmaking
lessmilk milkand using less itsconsistency. consistency.By ofspoiJing spoiling its
of By using smoother ofsmoother icecream creamof anice cream,an freshcream,
withfresh contentwith theliquid liquidcontent the beobtained. obtained. can be
texture can texture fewer andfewer lesssugar sugarand byusing usingJess madeby
iceis ismade firmerice andfirmer Adrier drierand A
ESSENCES AUx ESSENCES LrQr.JEuRS, AUX Ar.X LIQUEURS, GLACES AUX GLACES

(generous 1 fruit. g. (generous I lb.) lb.) fruit. 500 g. fine every 500 sugar to
fine sugar to every much as much mixture as Add to to this this mixture sieve. Add
fine sieve. a fine Rub Rub through through a (This must must density. (This to the
the right right density. it to required to to bring bring it water as as is water
is required with a a saccharometer.) saccharometer.) tested with be tested be

Various for ice puddings for ice VariousmouJds moulds Puddings (Dehil/erin.
Larousse) (Dehillerin.Phol. Phot. Larousse)

cream moulds ice Old-fashioned Old·fashioned ice cream moulds

491 491
ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE
yolks. If, If, however, however, too too little little sugar egg yolks. sugar or or
too too few few eggs eggsare are egg used, the the result result will will be be a
adisappointingly disaopointingly tasteless tasteless mixture. mixture. used, In no
no circumstances (11 oz., circumstances should g. (II should less less than than
300 300 g. oz., lt l{ In yolks be quantifine sugar sugar and cups) fine and 6 6 egg
eggyolks be used. used. Even Eventhese thesequanticups) yield an good quality.
quality. ties will will not not yield an ice ice of of good ties pArs À (bombe)
mixture. Mousse (bombe) mixture. PÂTE A BOMBE BoMBE- - Make Make 1I litre litre
Mousse (lt pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) syrup (220"F.). 104'C.
(220°F.). syrup boiled boiled to to 104°C. (li yolla in Put the and 32 in aadouble
the syrup syrup and 32egg egg yolks double saucepan saucepan on on the the Put
stove over a high high fia flame. From time time to to time with aawhisk. whisk.
over a time stir stir with stove me. From When the reaches the consistency ofthick
themixture rub the consistency of thick cream, cream, rub When mixture reaches it
through fine seive quitecold, through a a fine into a a bowl. seive into bowl.
Whisk Whisk until until it it is isquite cold, it Add an frothy and when it it
should should be be light, light, frothy and whitish whitish in in colour. colour.
Add an when quantity of fruit liqueur or cream, and equal quantity of whipped
whipped cream, and liqueur or fruit equal pur6e. purée. Keep in in a porcelain
container, a stone stone or or porcelain place in container, and in aa and place
Keep bucket of of ice ice without without salt, salt, or or in in the refrigerator.
the refrigerator. bucket given below. Recipes for for a number of a number of
different different ices ices are are given below. Recipes

juiceof sugar. Add Addthe thejuice lemonsand of22lemons andof of22oranges.

oranges.Rub Rub sugar. throughaasieve. sieve. through Addto tothis this mixture
mixture enough enough filtered filteredwater waterto tobring the Add bringthe
mixture to toaadensity densityof of16° 16"to to18° l8'(see mixture (see SUGAR).
SUGAR). Tangerine ice. ice.GLACE cracrÀALA r,c,MANDARINE rr{lNpARrun- -Infuse
peelof Infusethe Tangerine thepeel of (1+pints, pints,I~ tangerines in in7t dl.
(l1pints)boiling lJpints) 44 tangerines syrup. boilingsyrup. fi dl. juiceof Whenthe
themixture mixture is iscold, cold,add add the thejuice When of66tangerines,
tangerines,22 (Density:20° oranges and and1I lemon. lemon. Strain. Strain.
(Density: oranges ° - - see 20"to to21 2lo see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) PLAIN ICE ICECREAMS.
CREAMS.GLACES crlcrssrMprssA PLAIN SIMPLES À LA r,c,CRÈME cRitcAlnond ice icecream.
cream.GLACES Almond cLAcEs AUX Ar.xAMANDES AMANDTs - - Add Addto to1Ilitre litre
( lt pints, pints,generous generousquart) quart) boiled boiledmilk, (4oz., (li
scant cup) milk,100 100g. oz.,scant cup) E(4 freshalmonds almondsand fresh and
55bitter almonds which been blanched bitteralmonds which have havebeenblanched
pounded with and pounded with aa few few tablespoons and tablespoons water.
water.Infuse Infuse for for25 25 minutes. minutes. prepare custard Use to to
prepare Use custard cream cream as asdescribed describedin inthe thebasic basic
recipe for for lce lce cream recipe creammixture. mixture. Freeze Freezethe
icecream theice cream in inthe the usual usual way. way. Chocolate Chocolate ice
ice cream. cream. GLACE cLAcEAU AU CHOCOLAT cHocor,,lr - - Add g. Add250 250g. (9
oz., grated chocolate, (9 3 cups) o2.,3 cups) grated chocolate, dissolved (} pint,
pint, dissolved in in22dl. dl.(1(lf; pints, scant cup) pints, generous scant cup)
water water to to 1I litre litre (Ii generous quart) quart)boiled boiled milk milk
fiavoured flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla. The chocolate The chocolate being
beingsweet in itself, (9oz., sweet in itself, only g.(9 only250 250g. oz., generous
cup) generous cup) fine finesugar sugar should should be be used insteadof ofthe
used instead thelarger larger quantities indicated quantities indicated in in the
the basic basic instructions instructions for for lce cream lce cream mixture.
mixture.

PLAIN FRUIT FRUIT ICES ICES WITH WITH A A SYRUP SYRUP BASE. BASE. GLACES GLAcEs
PLAIN
ice. GLACE cracn À A L'ABRICOT r'lnnlcor -- Equal quantities of Equal quantities
fresh of fresh Apricot ice. juice of pulp or pur6e and apricot pulp or purée and
syrup. syrup. The The juice lemons is of 2 2 lemons is apricot (scant quart, added
to to every litre (scant quarto generous every litre generous quart) quart) of of
this this added (Density: 18° mixture. (Density: l8'to 19'see SUGAR.) SUGAR.)
mixture. to 19° - see cl.lcn À A LA r.l BANANE sA,NA,l.rE -- Proceed Proceed as as
for fot Pineappfe Pineapple Banana ice. GLACE (sa below), using ice (see using
syrup syrup and and banana pur6e. Add banana purée. Add lemon lemon ice juice.
Flavour with kirsch or (Density: 20° or rum. rum. (Density: 20' to to 21° 21o --
see juice. see suGAR.) SUGAR.) ice. GLACE cucp AUX (scant pint, Arrx CERISES
cERrsEs -- Soak Soak tI litre titre (scant pint, Cherry ice. cups) crushed 2{ cups)
crushed stoned stoned cherries cherries for for 1 (siant I hour hour in in } litre
litre (scant 2* pint, pounded kernels with 2| cups) syrup. syrup. Soak Soak pounded
pin t, 2! with the the cherries. cherries. juice and Add a a few few drops drops of
of lemon lemon juice and a little kirsch. Add a little kirsch. Rub Rub (Density:
20° through a fine fine sieve. sieve. (Density: 20" to through °to 21 2lo see
SUGAR.) SUGAR.) - see Lemm ice. GLACE crncs AU AU CITRON crrRoN -- Soak Lemon Soak
the the rind lemons rind of of 3 3 lemons h6urs in t litre (scant pint, 2i for 2
hours 2f cups) cups) cold cold syrup. syrup. Add Add the the juice juice of (and,
if 4 lemons lemons (and, if desired, desired, the juice of 4 the juice of 2 2
oranges). oranges). Strain. (Density: 21 21" ° to 22° --se,e see SUG AR.) to22"
SUGAR.) Melon ice. ice. GLACE cucs AU AU MELON MELoN as for for Apricot Apricot
ice, ice, - Proceed as using melon pulp rubbed through through a a fine fine sieve.
sieve. Add Add a a little little brandy brandy to the mixture. mixture. Orange
crlcs A Orange ice. GLACE À L'ORANGE r'oneNce -- Proceed as for Tangerine as for
Tangerine l'ce (see below) with the peel and juice of 4 ice 4 to to 5 oranges
oranges and and the I lemon. (Density: 20° the juice juice of 1 to 21 °see 20'to
21o see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) pEclc Peach ice. GLACE cr,tct A À LA u PÊCHE as for Apricot
Apricot ice, ice, - Proceed as to 19° - see using peach pulp. (Density: 18° 18" to
19'see SUGAR.) poms - Pound in Pear ice. cLAcE GLACE A À rA LA POIRE in a a mortar
500 g. 500 g. (18 cups)fine (18 oz.,2f oz., 2i-cups) fine sugar with 500 cored
sugarwith peeled andcored 500 g. (18 oz.) peeledand pears stewed until very soft.
Add the juice of a a lemon. Rub through through a sieve. sieve. Add Add enough
enough filtered water to bring the sugar density to 21 ° to 22' 22° (see SUGAR.)
21" SUGAR.) Pineapple ice. cucs GLACE A À r',q.N,q,NAs L'ANANAS t litre (scant
pint, Pineapple - Soak j 2i cups) finely pounded pineapple (fresh 2| (fresh or or
tinned) tinned) for fbr 2 2 equal quantity of of syrup. Add a little lemon hours in
an equal lemon juice and kirsch. (Density: 18" 18° to 20'20° - see and see SUGAR.)
SUGAR.) Plum ice. ice. cLAcE GLACE Aux AUX rRUNES PRUNES - Proceed as Plum as for
Apricot ice, of plums. plu ms. using puree purée of using Raspberry ice. ice. crlcr
GLACE A À L,c, LA FRA,r4norsts FRAMBOISE - Proceed Raspberry as for - Proceed as
Strawberry ice (see below) below) using using crushed crushed raspberries.
raspberries. Strawberry Redcurrant ice. crecr GLACE A À u LA cnosnnr.n GROSEILLE -
Add Redcurrant I litre (scant pint" pin t, 2l 2i cups) cups) redcurrant redcurrant
juice juice to an equal equal quantity of of syrup. Add only only a few few drops
drops of lemon juice, as as the the fruit fruit is is acid Add enough. (Density:
(Density: 19" 19° to 20'20° - see see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) enough. Strawberry ice. ice.
crAcs GLACE AUx AUX FRArsEs FRAISES - Add (scant Strawberry - preserved) f litre
(scant pint, 2f 2* cups) cups) crushed strawberries (fresh or preserved) and pint,
and the juice juice of of 2 2 lemons lemons and 2 oranges oranges to I litre litre
(scant pint, 2i the pint,2t cups) cold co Id syrup. syrup. Sieve. (Density: 16' 16°
to to l8o 18° - see see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) cups) This ice ice may may also also be be
prepared prepared as as follows: pound poundtogether This together kg. (2f (2i-
lb.) lb.) strawberries strawberries and and 500 500 g. g. (18 oz., 2f 2i- cups)
cups) fine fine I1 kg.
SIMPLES, AUX AIjX FRUITS, FRUITS, AU AU SIROPSIROP SIMPLES,

t
Coffee (Debillot. Phol. Coffee ice ice cream cream (Debil/ol. Phot. Larousse)
Larousse\

Coffee Coffee ice ice cream. ,tu CAFÉ g. (2 cream. GLACE cLAcE AU car6 -- Infuse
Infuse 50 50 g. oz.,l Q oz., cup) ground coffee cup) freshly freshly roasted
roasted and (l| pints, pints, and ground coffee in in a a1 I litre litre (li
generous quart) quart) hot, hot, boiled milk for for 25 boiled milk 25 minutes.
minutes. Use Use this this to to prepare the the cream cream according according to
to the the basic instructions for for basic instructions /ce It can Ice cream cream
mixture. mixture.It can also also be be made made by adding to milk by adding to
the the milk 2 (* pint, scant 2 dl. dl. (1scant cup) cup) very very strong strong
liquid liquid coffee. coffee. Hazelnut VELINES - Proceed as Hazelnut ice ice cream.
cream. GLACE cLAcE AUX AUx A AvELTNEs as for for - Proceed Afmond Almond ice ice
cream, cream, substituting substituting for g. (4 (4 oz., for the the almonds
almonds 100 100 g. oz., 1 I cup) pounded hazelnuts. cup) slightly slightly roasted,
roastedo pounded hazelnuts. Pistachio prsrAcHE - Pound Pistachio ice ice cream.
cream. GLACE cr.lcr À LA PISTACHE A LA together - Pound together 75 g. ~ cup)
blanched pistachio g. (3 (3 oz., pistachio nuts oz., t 75 cup) blanched g. (1 (l
oz., nuts and and 25 25 g. oz, 3 tablespoons) blanched fresh almonds. While
pounding, 3 tablespoons) blanched fresh almonds. While pounding, add a a few few
tablespoons add tablespoons milk. milk. pints, generous Infuse in in 1 litre (Ii
(l| pints, Infuse generous quart) I litre quart) boiling boiling milk. milk. 492
492

t
ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES

Hazelnut am (Lar ous se) Hazelnut ice ice cre cream (Larousse)

Vanilla Vanilla and and strawberry strawberry ice ice cream cream (Debillot.
(DebilJol. Phot. Phol . Iarousse) Larousse)

Use to to prepare prepare the the cream cream according according to to the the
basic basic instructions instructions Use /ce cremn cream mixture. mixture. for lce
300 g. (ll (II oz., 2 cups) blanched fresh thoroughly in a mortar 300 (l o2.,3
almonds and 25 g. g. (1 oz., 3 tablespoons) blanchbd blanchèd bitter almonds and 25
(2| pints, 1+ litres (21 Moisten with with a little little milk. Add li almonds.
Moisten pints) cream. 2fr pints) cream. mixture down in the strainer to extract
Strain, pressing pressing the mixture ail the milk. all (l I oz., oz., 1| Stir I~
cups) Stir 10 egg yolks thoroughly with 300 g. (II fine sugar in a a saucepan.
saucepan. Add the milk to this mixture. Heat as for for Custard on the stove
without to the the boil, boiJ, as without bringing to on the (see CREAMS). and stir
stove Remove from from the the st cream ove and CREAMS). Remove creem (see in a a
sieve. Freeze in vigorously for Rub through a a sieve. for 3 minutes. Rub a
spatula. churn time to to time time with with a from time freezer, stirring
stirring from churn freezer, (l pint, 2i partly frozen, add 6 dl. 2| cups) dl. (1
When the mixture is partly mixture is freezing process. whipped cream. the freezing
cream. Continue the immerse the freezer Drain off any water in in the bucket and
immerse and salt salt and and leave once more. with ice ice and it completely with
more. Coyer Cover it for 2 hours. hours. a and arrange in a Scoop with a bali-scoop
ball-scoop and cream with out the ice cream Scoop out apricot Pour a pyramid on
pyramid pricot with a a folded napkin. Pour on a a dish dish covered covered with
jam over jam over the the ice ice cream. cream. proMslinns AUX A,Lx Chestnut cLAcE
PLOMBIÈRES ice cream. Plombilres ice cream. GLACE Chestnut Plombières (made pur6e
(made (9 oz., g. (9 cup) chestnut chestnut purée MARRONS 1 cup) oz.,l MARRoNs --
Mix Mix 250 250 g. (l| pints, pints, I litre litre (li with 1 from in milk) milk)
with cooked in from skinned skinned chestnuts chestnuts cooked (see CREA Rub MS).
Rub ger..erous CREAMS). generous quart) quart) hot uecan (see hot Custard Custard
cream through firm and and smooth, smooth, it is is finn Freeze. When When it
sieve. Freeze. a fine fine sieve. through a (scant pint, pint, 2i cream, and and 5
5 whipped cream, mix 2t cups) cups) whipped titre (scant in f litre mix in
tdblespoons (6 tablespoons) maraschino. tablespoons (6 tablespoons) maraschino.
leave Put Id and mould and leave ice cream cream mou a cylindrical cylindrical ice
this mixture mixture in in a Put this in hours. for It l| hours. in the the ice ice
bucket bucket for prulnu6 -- Add litre Add to to 1 I litre Praline cLAcE AU lu
PRALINÉ Praline ice ice cream. cream. GLACE prepared as as (li (l| pints, quart)
vanilla custard cream, cream, prepared pints, generous generous quart) vanilla
custard (see below), described below), Vanilla ice ice cream crearn (see for
Vanil/a recipe for in the the recipe described in pounded (q.v.) ofburnt 125 (4
oz., praline (q.v.) g. (4 of burnt almonds, almonds, pounded oz., ~ 125 g. cup)
praline t cup) grinder. put through and through aa grinder. a sieve sieve or or put
and rubbed rubbed through through a The hazelnuts, walnuts, walnuts, is used for
burnt burnt hazelnuts, The same used for same method method is pistachio peanuts.
pistachio nuts nuts or or peanuts. Tea cream in in the the the cream lu THÉ rr$ --
Prepare Prepare the ice cream. cLAcE AU Tea ice cream. GLACE ( l| pints, I~ pints)
milk milk and and usual lJ pints) dl.(Itpints, mixture of of 7i usual waywith way
with aa mixture fi dl. 3 (+pint, tea. pint, li strained tea. verystrong, strong,
strained 3dl. dl. (t 1| cups) cups) very preparation of icecreams The ofice creams
for the is used used for the preparation Thesame same method method is flavoured
verbena infusions. peppermint, lime-flower infusions. lime-flower or or verbena
flavoured with with peppermint, for the the VaniJIa asfor rn VANlLLE vamr,rn - -
Proceed Proceed as ALA Vanilla ice cLAcE À icecream. crem. GLACE pod vanilla pod am
mixture, basic whichaavanilla milk in in which using milk basicIce lcecre crearn
mixture, using of has tablespoonof minutes,or orto towhich which11tablespoon for20
20 minutes, hasbeen beeninfused infusedfor vanilla added. vanilla extract extract
has hasbeen beenadded.
Pound Plombières ice ice cream. cream. cLAcE GLACE PLoMBIiREs PLOMBIÈRES Plombilres

2i

lmond for A cream. cLAcE Walnut Walnut ice icecream. GLACE lux AUX Nox NOIX -
Proceed proceed as as for Almond 100 g. ice ice cream,using cream, using 100 g. (4
(4 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) pounded pounded walnuts. walnuts. sANs cookery). cLACD
eggs (American Ice Ice cream without without eggs (American cookery). GLACE SANS
the I litre litre (lf pints, oEUFs OEUFS Boil 1 pints, generous generous quart)
quart) milk milk with with the - Boil g. (9 cup) fine oz., generous and 250 of
cream cream and same sa me quantity quantity of 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) fine
(2 oz., Rub thiough g. (2 cup) cornflour. oz., I 50 g. sugar. Bind with with 50 t
cup) cornflour. Rub through

(li

often. cool, stirring stirring often. it cool, a hair hair sieve. Let it coffee,
orange zest, zest, coffee, lemon or or orange with vanilla, Flavour with Flavour
vanilla, lemon way. Freeze in in the the usual etc. Freeze chocolateo liqueurs,
etc. chocolate, usual way.

bombes former times, times, bombes In former cl-,c,c6Es BoMBES GLACÉES BOMBE ICES.
BOMBES - In were and were mixtures and ice cream cream mixtures or ice ice or water
ice of water were made made of were got their name. their name. is how how they
they got This is spherical moulds. This shaped in spherical flavour, being being in
fiavour, more delicate delicate in ices are are more Nowadays, bombe ices the
(bombe) mixture in the describod in mixture described Mousse (bombe) from the the
Mousse made from made above. basic recipes above. mixice cream cream mixdifferent
ice two different of two be made made of should be A bombe bombe should A plain ice
(this is cream ice cream a plain is usually usually a mould ~this the mould line
the one to line tures. one tures, made casing, made fills the the casing, which
fills other, which ice), the the other, water ice), fruit or or water a fruit or a
in conical conical made in (bombe) mixture. Bombes are are made mixture. Bombes
Mousse (bombe) from Mousse from lids, with tight-fitting tight-fitting lids, top,
with the top, at the rounded at sligbtly rounded moulds, mou Ids, slightly left be
left They should should be butter. They with butter. sealed with hermetically
sealed are hermetically and are and 2 hours. hours. salt for for 2 and salt in ice
ice and to stand stand in to Fill with with ice. Fill with Tangerine Tangerirc ice.
mould with the mould Line the Aida -- Line Bombe Aida Bombe kirsch. and kirsch.
with vanilla vanilla and (bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture flavoured Mousse
(bombe) Mousse bombe Line the the bombe ArcfRIsNItIE -- Line BoMBE ALGÉRIENNE
bombe. BOMBE Algerian bombe. Aigerian which Pineapple ice, ice, to to which with
Pineapple Fill with ice. Fill Tangerine ice. mould witli wi$i Tangerine mould have
been been in kirsch kirsch have pineapple steeped steeped in pieces of
ofcrystallised pieces crystallised pineapple added. added. ice cream. cream.
Vanilla ice with Vanilla mould Line the Alhambra -- Line Bombe Alhambra the mou
Bombe Id with (bombe) mixture. mixture. Mousse (bombe) with strawberry-flavoured
strawberry-flavoured Mousse Fill with Fill large strawstrawwith large bombe with
the bombe surround the out, surround After turning turning out, After kirsch. in
kirsch. steeped in berries steeped berries with the mou mould Line the lrrdnrclrNe-
Line BoMBE AMÉRICAINEAmericanbombe. Id with American bombe. BOMBE (bombe) mixture
flavoured mixture flavoured Mousse (bombe) Fill with with Mousse ice. Fill
Strawberry ice. Strawberry icecream cream with Pistachio Pistachio ice bombe with
thebombe Decorate the with tangerine. tangerine. Decorate with put through forcing-
bag. through aaforcing-bag. put APRICOT. See APRICOT. bombe -- See Apricot bombe
Apricot Vanilla ice ice wfth Vanilla the mould mould with Line the Bombe Bourdaloue
Bonrdaloue -- Line Bombe with (bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture fiavoured
Mousse (bombe) Fill with with Mousse cream. Fill cream. violets. with crystallised
crystallised violets. thebombe bombewith Decorate the anise. Decorate anise.
flavoured icecream cream fiavoured with ice mould with Line the the mould cardinal
- Line BombecardinalBombe Mousse vanilla Mousse Fill with with vanilla raspberry.
Fill andraspberry. strawberry and with strawberry with praline. with praline.
(bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture flavoured (bombe) ice. Apricotice. with
Apricot mouldwith Linethe themould Chateaubriand - - Line Bombe Chateaubriand Bombe
vanilla, (bombe) mixture flavouredwith with vanilla, mixture flavoured
Mousse(bombe) Fill with with Mousse Fill andsteeped (candied) apricots, steeped
dicod and apricots,diced with crystallised crystallised(candied) mixedwith mixed
inkirsch. kirsch. in

493 493
ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE
Bombe dame-blanche dame-blanche -- Line Line the the mou mould withVanilla
Vanillaice ice Bombe Id with (bombe) mixture cream. Fill Fill with with Mousse
Mousse (bombe) mixture fiavoured flavoured with with cream. almond milk. milk.
almond Bombe dauphinoise dauphinoise -- Line Line the the mould mould with wth
Pineapple Pineapple ice. ice. Bombe Fill with with whipped whipped cream cream
flavoured greenChartreuse. flavoured with with green Chartreuse. FiJI Bombe
diplomate diplomateLine the the mou mould with Vanilla Vanillaice icecream. cream.
Bombe - Line Id with (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture
fiavoured flavoured maraschino, maraschino, Fill mixed with with crystallised
crystallised fruit fruit steeped steeped in in liqueur. liqueur. mixed Brimbe Doria
Doria -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Pistachio Pistachia ice icecream.
cream. BOmbe Fill with (bombe) mixture with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured
flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, Fill pieces of mixed with with pieces glacds
(see of Marrons Marrons glacés (see CHESTNUT) CHESTNUT) mixed steeped in in
Curaçao. Curagao. steeped Bombe duchesse duchesse -- Line Line the the mould mould
with with Pineapple Pineapple ice. ice. Fill Flll Bombe (bombe) mixture Mousse
(bombe) with Mousse pearsand mixture flavoured flavoured with with pears and with
kirsch. kirsch. Bombe Francillon Francillon -- Line Line the the mould mould with
with Coffee Coffee ice icecream. cream. Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse
Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured flavoured with with fine fine Fill Champagne
brandy. brandy. Champagne Bombe Gismonda Gismonda -- Line Line the the mould mould
with with Praline Praline ice ice cream. cream. Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with
Mousse (bombe) with Mousse mixture fiavoured flavoured with with aniseed, aniseed,
Fill (q.v.) made praline (q.v.) a praline and a made from from filberts. filberts.
and Bombe Grimaldi Grimaldi -- Line Line the the mou mould with Vanilla Vanilla ice
ice cream. cream. Id with Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse Mousse
(bombe) mixture fiavoured flavoured with with kummel. kummel. Fill (candied)
violets the bombe bombe with with crystallised crystallised (candied) violets and
and Decorate the pistachio nuts. halved pistachio nuts. halved Bombe Héricart
H6ricart Line a a large, large, shallow shallow mould mould with with Bombe - Line
(bombe\ mixture Strawberry ice. ice. Fill Flll with with Mousse Mousse (bombe)
mixture flavoured flavoured with Champagne Champagne brandy, brandy, with with
whole whole strawberries strawberries from from with strawberryjam dotted about
about here here and and there. there. jam dotted strawberry imp6ratrice-Line the
mould with with Redcurrant the mould Redcurrant ice. Bombe impératrice-Line ice.
Fill with with Rice Rice à (see RICE) d l'impératrice l'impdratrice (see RICE)
mixed mixed with with diced diced Fill crystallised (candied) fruit steeped steeped
in in liqueur. liqueur. Medicis Line the mould mould with with Pear Pear ice. rce.
Fill Fill with Bombe Médicis with - Line Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured with
peach, and pieces of and pieces of steeped in kirsch. peach steeped Bombe Monselet
Monselet mould with with Tangerine Tangerine ice. ice. Fill FIll - Line the mould
mixture flavoured with port and with Mousse (bombe) mixture and mixed mixed with
candied candied orange orange peel cut into little pieces and steeped steeped in
with in Champagne brandy. Bombe Montmorency Montmorency-Line (see - Line the mould
with kirsch ice ice (see the basic recipe ab above for ices ices flavoured with
liqueurs). Fill ove for Fill mixture flavoured with cherry brandy, with Mousse
(bombe) mixture mixed with cherries steeped in kirsch. cherries steeped Nelusko
(bombe)mixture Nelusko icecream ice cream - Mousse (bombe) mixture enclosed in a a
layer of of ice cream cream flavoured with praline. Bombe Nesselrodeth Vanilla
Nesselrode - Line the mould wi with Vanilla ice cream. (bombe) mixture Fill mixture
to pur6e of Ell with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) to which which a a purée Marrons
Marrons glacis glacés (see CHESTNUT) CHESTNUT) flavoured with kirsch has been
added. added. Bombe Bombe mccis succès - Line the mould with Apricor Apricot ice.
ice. Fill with Chantilly Chantilly creern(see cream (see CREAMS) CREA MS) flavoured
with with kirsch, mixed with with diced apricots. apricots. Bombe Bombe tutti-
frutti tutti-frutti - Line the mould with Strawberry ice. Fill FilJ with with
Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture mixture flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, and
with of crystallised crystallised fruit steeped liqueur. with a a salpicon salpicon
(q.v.) (q.v.) of steeped in liqueur. Bombe Bombe V6ronique Véronique - Line the the
mould mould with Pistachio Pistachio ice ice cream. cream. Fill Fill with with
chocolate-flavoured chocolate-flavoured Mousse Mousse (bombe) (bombe) mixture
mixture mixed mixed with with diced diced candied orange peel peel steeped in
Champagne brandy. brandy. Champagne

Preparation of Preparation wupes ofcoupes

The coupe The coupe Jacques may be Jacques may be regarded regardedas the classic
as the classicsundae, sundae, (Seealso the model the model for for ail allothers.
others.(See also SUNDAES.) SUNDAES.) Apricot coupe. Apricot coupe.COUPE coupE
GLACÉE GLAcEE AUX AUx ABRICOTS ABRrcors - - Put Put22tabletable(3 tablespoons)
spoons (or canned) spoons (3 tablespoons) fresh fresh (or canned) sliced sliced
apricots, apricots, steeped steeped in in kirsch, kirsch, into into aaChampagne
glassor Champagneglass ice cup. or ice cup. Top Top with with aa layer layer of of
Apricot Apricot ice. rce.Smooth Smooth down down the thesurface. surface. Decorate
Decorate with with half half an an apricot, apricot, steeped steeped in in kirsch,
kirsch, and and halved, halved, blanched blanched almonds. almonds. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with aafew few drops drops of of kirsch. kirsch. Cherry Cherry coupe.
coupe. COUPE cor.Jpr GLACÉE crlcfe AUX Ar.lx CERISES cERrsEs - - Put Put22
tabletable(3 tablespoons) spoons spoons (3 tablespoons) stoned stoned cherries
cherries which which have have been been steeped steeped in in cherry cherry brandy
brandy and and sugar sugar in in the the bottom bottom of of the theice ice cups.
cups. Coyer Cover with with Cherry Cherry ice. ice. Decorate Decorate the the ices
ices with with cherries cherries and and halved halved almonds. almonds. 1
ChamCoupe Coupe Crapotte. Crapotte. COUPE coupE GLACÉE cLAcEE CRAPOTTE cRAporrE --
Fil Fill Champagne pagne glasses glasses or or ice ice cups cups three-quarters
three-quarters full full with with aa smooth smooth layer layer of of Peach Peach
ice. ice. Arrange Arrange on on top mixture of top aa mixture of equal equal
quantities of quantities alpine strawberries of alpine strawberries and previously
raspberries, previously and raspberries, steeped steeped in in kummel kummel and
and chilled. chilled. Coyer Cover the the fruit fruit with with a a layer layer of
piped of whipped whipped cream cream piped through through a a forcing-bag forcing-
bag with with a a fluted fluted nozzle. nozzle. Decorate the the top top with with
blanched blanched almonds almonds and and crystallised crystallised violets. Coupe
Coupe Jacques Fill Champagne glasses or Jacques -- Fill Champagne glasses or ice
ice cups with cups with equal quantities of equal quantities of Lemon Lemon ice ice
and and Strawberry Strawberry ice. ice. Put Pttt 1 I tablespoon tablespoon fresh
fresh fruit fruit steeped steeped in in kirsch kirsch in in the the middle. middle.
Decorate Decorate with with crystallised crystallised cherries cherries and and
halved halved almonds. almonds. Sprinkle Sprinkle a a few few drops drops of of
kirsch on on top. top. Peach ptcnrs -- Put Peach coupe. coupe. COUPE corJpE GLACÉE
cLAcfE AUX lux PÊCHES Put 1 I tabletablespoon of a v.) of (q.v.) a salpicon (q.
peaches, steeped of raw raw peaches, steeped in in liqueur, liqueur, in glasses or
in Champagne Champagne glasses or ice ice cups. cups. Coyer Cover with with a a
smooth smooth layer of Peach ice. ice. Place in the peach which Place in the centre
centre a a ripe ripe peach which has has been peeled peeld and and chilled chilled
on on ice. ice. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with kirsch kirsch or or any any other
liqueur.
SHERBETS A TER ICES. SHERBETS AND AND W WATER ICES. SORBETS soRBErs -- See See
SHERSHERBETS. Gramolates (see below) graniti (see A granité below) served served
between between main main -A courses, like sherbets. sherbets. They are are also
also served served as as refreshments refreshments in the the course course of of
an an evening's evening's entertainment. entertainment. Granités - These Granitds
These ices, presented in ices, which which are are presented in special special
glasses, are are made made from from fruit fruit syrups, glasses, syrups, with with
a a density density of of not not 14° by the the syrup more than 14" syrup
saccharometer. saccharometer. are frozen in a a churn chum freezer They are frozen
in freezer or or deep deep freeze. freeze. Unlike Unlike other types of of ice,
ice, they they are are not not stirred other stirred during during freezing.
freezing. As As their name name suggests, suggests, granitis granités should their
should have have a a somewhat somewhat granular texture. texture. granular
MARQUISES cr,{cfps GLACÉES - Make Iced MarErises. Marquises. rralnqusss Iced from a
a - Make from 494 494

ICED ICED COUPES COUPES or or SUNDAES. SUNDAES. coupns COUPES crlcfEs GLACÉES -
These are - These are a delicious delicious composite composite sweet sweet with
ice ice cream as as their main main a ingredient. They They are are served served
in in glass glass or silver ice cups, and ingredient.
for this this reason reason they they are are known known as as coupes coupes in in
France. France. for The glasses glasses are are usually usually filled filled with
with one one or or more more kinds kinds of of ice ice The cream and and decorated
decorated on on top top with with fresh fresh or or crystallised crystallised
fruit, cream or with with Chantilly Chantilly cream cream (see (see CREAMS).
CREAMS). or Sundaes may may be be presented presented in in a a great great many
many different different ways. ways. Sundaes
ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES
mixture mixture similar sirnilar to to that that used used in in the the
preparationof preparation ofgranitisbxt granités but frozen frozen to ta a a
somewhat somewhat stiffer stiffer consistency. consistency. It It is is flavoured
flavoured with with kirsch kirsch and and should should register registcr 17' 17°
on on the the syrup syrup saccharometer. saccharometer. Mix Mix in, in, for for I 1
litre litre (If; (J~ pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) of of the the
syrup, syrup, 4 4 dl. dl. (i Gpint, pint, scant scant 2 2 cups) cups) very very
stiffiy stiffly beaten beaten Chantilly Chanlil/y cream cream (see (see CREAMS)
CREAMS) mixed mixed with with a a puree purée of of strawberries strawbcrries or or
some sorne other fruit. fruit. Serve Serve in in glass glass goblets. goblets.
other Iced {ceci prnch puncb iil la la romaine. romaine. puNcn PUNCH cr,lcf GLACÉ A
À LA LA RoMAINE ROMAINE-Iced - Iced punch punch is served served between between
main main courses, courses, like like sherbets sherbets and and granitds. granilés.
To { î litre (scant (seant pint, 2Ln 2* cups) syrup syrup (density (density 22")
22°) add enough dry white wine or dry dry Champagne to to reduce reduee the the
density to to 17o. 17°. Add to to this mixture mixture a a little little lemon
lemon and orange orange density juice of rind and the 2 oranges lemons. Leave,
thejuiee of2 oranges and and 3 3lemons. Leave, covered, covered, for I 1 hour.
houT. Strain Strain and bring bring to to a density density of l8'. 18°. Ice
mixture in in a churn chum freezer freezer until until it is rather rather stiff.
stiff. lee this titis mixture Add Add a quarter of of its its volume volume of of
Italiot lIalian meringue meringue (see MIXMIXTURES), TURES), made made from from 2
egg cgg whites and 100 g. (4 oz., * 1 cup) sugar. sugar. cup) Just Just before
before serving, serving. mix mix in I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons,
scant seant I 1cuP) sherbet. rum. Serve like sherbet. 20". When it is Spooms-
sherbet with a sugar density of of 20°. Spoom - A sherbet frozen, Italian lla/ian
meringue meringue (see MIXTURES) is added - twice twiee sherbet. much as would wou
Id be used used in an ordinary sherbet. as much Spooms are or wines are made made
from from fruit fruit juices juices or wines such such as etc. They Champagne,
muscatel, Frontignan, sherry, port, port, etc. like sherbets. are served in
glasses, like

Line Line the the moulds mou Ids with with wafers, wafers, sponge sponge fingers
fingers steeped steeped in in liqueur liqueur as as for for a a Charlotte Char/Olle
rrsse russe (see (sec CHARLOTTE), CHARLOTTE), or or with wilh finely finely sliced
sliced Genoese Genoese cake cake cut cut into into thin thin strips. strips. Fill
FiJI with with a a Mousse Mousse (bombe) (bombe) mixture. miXlure. The The pudding
pudding can can be be made made more more attractive attractive by by using using
different different coloured coloured layers layers of of variously variously
flavoured flavoured ice iee cream cream for for the the filling. filling, It lt may
may also also be be made made from from a a mixture mixture similar similar to to
that Ihat used used in in a a Bavarian Bavarian
cream cream (q.v.). (q.v.). Ice lce puddings puddings are are frozen frozen with
with a a great great deal deal of ofice iee or or placed placed in in a food food
freezer. pouDING Icedprddfurycapucine. Iccd pudding capucine. POUDING crlc€ GLACÉ
cApucINECAPUCINE - Make Make a a Genoese Genoese cake cake (ser., (sec GENOESE)
GENOESE) in in a a charlotte charlotte mould. mou Id. Leave Leave it it until il is
is completely completely cold. cold. Remove Remove the the top top and and scoop
scoop out out the the until it cake cake almost completely, completely, being being
careful careful not not to to break break the the crust. crust. Fill Fill with
\vith alternate alternate layers layers of of tangerine-flavoured tangerine-
flavoured lced Iced mousse mousse and kummel-flavoured kummel-ftavoured lced Iced
mousse, mousse, prepared prepared in advance. advanee. Cover Coyer the the Genoese
Genoese cake cake with with its its top. top. Surround Surround it it with with ice
iee and salt salt in in a bucket buckct and leave for for I 1 hour, hour, or or
place place in in a a food food freezer. Place Place it it on on a base base of of
clear clear sugar, sugar, decorated decorated with with flowers flowers and and
ribbons ribbons of of spun spun sugar. sugar. Pipe Pipe Chantilly ChanNJ/y cream
cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag onto
onto the the cake. clecfs - These are Iced Ieee:! souff6s. soufflés. sollrFI.fs
SOUFFLÉS GLACÉS are preparod prepared with with a a similar to that mixturb mixture
similar that used for for cream iced mousses, mousses, or or with with a fruit a
fruit mixture. mixture. Ingredients Ingredients and methodfor melhodfor fruit iced
iced souffids. soufflés. Whisk Whisk l0 10 egg egg g. (18 whites stiff foam.
wltites to to a a stiff foam. Add Add 500 500 g. (l8 oz., oz., 2| 2~ cups) cups)
sugar sugar SUGAR). cooked with I cup water to with 1 to 116"C. 116-C. (240'F.)
(24O v F.) (see (see SUGAR). Put Put this this mixture mixture in in a a bowl bowl
and chill. chilI. Add Add + t litre litre (scant (seant pinq2l pint, 2~ cups)
ofwhatever of whatever fruit fruit puree purée is is desired and t ~ litre litre
(scant (scant pint, pint, 2| stiffiy beaten cream. 2! cups) stiffly Large are
served served in Large soufl6s soufflés are in an an ordinary ordinary souffi6
soufflé dish, dish, or stuck stuck surrounded by by a a white wltite paper paper
friil frill tied tied with with string string or (l cm. (1 should be The frill
together together with with butter. butter. The frill should be about about 2i 2t
cm. dish until soufr6 is dish. Fill inch) inch) deeper than than the the dish. Fil!
the the dish until the the soufflé is flush with a bucket with the top top of of
the frill. frill. Put Put it it in in a bucket of of ice ice and in a food freezer.
salt, or in little way, either either in in little in the the same same way, Small
soufflés souffi6s are are served in paper cases. They, too, too, should should be
be frilled paper cases. They, metal cases cases or or in metal in frilled placed in
put to in a a food and salt, salt, or or placed to freeze in in a a bucket bucket
of of ice and put food fteezer. freezer. paper frills dish or or frills from from
the remove the paper Before serving rem ove the the dish cases. gflteau. BISCUITS
cuc6s ice gâteau. BIscuITs GLACÉS or ice cream or ice cream Neapolitan ice
Neapolitan rectangumixture shaped in rectangumade of of lce cream creen mixture
These ices are made layers of of with layers are alternated alternated with ice
cream cream are lar boxes. Layers Layers of of iee lar flavours. iced of different
colours and flavours. water iees way, or or salt in in the the usual usual way, in
ice and and salt left to to freeze freeze in They are are left They placed in a
freezer. a food food freezer. plaeed it the mould, mould, it out of of the taken
out is taken block of ice cream is When the block or decordecorunadorned, or either
unadorned, served either and served slabs and is cut cut into neat s!abs is piped
through forcing-bag. a forcing-bag. through a plain iee ice cream piped ated with
with plain ated coMTESSEstscun COMTESSEComtesse-Marie. BlSCUIT ice cream cream
Comtesse-Marie. Neapolitan ice (called a a mould (called square mould special
square in a a special made in This is is made MARIE MARIE - Titis Strawberry with
Strawberry lined entirely entirely with It is is lined mould). It Comtesse-Maria
mould). Comtesse-Marie cream. whipped cream. vanilla-flavoured whipped sweet
vanilla-ftavoured with sweet ice and andfilled ice filled with paper special waxed
waxed paper into a a special the mould mould into of the the ice ice out out of
Turn the Tum and kirsch, and in kirsch, steeped in strawberries steeped with large
strawberries Decorate with case. Decorate case. cream. whipped cream. sweet whipped
sweet
Sweets ENrRElrtErscucfsICED DESSERTS DESSERTS or or SWEETS. SWEETS. ENTREMETS lCED
GLACÉS - Sweets ice in addition addition to to iee either be served served in this
kind kind may may either or desserts desserts of of this or in their their
composition. composition. cream in ice cream may include include iee cream or or
may cream (q.v.), Char/Olle cream (q.v.), Charlotte are Bavarian Bavarian cream
Among these sweets are these sweets Among (see CHARLOTTE), flavoured with with
fruit salads salads f1avoured russe (see CHARLOTTE), fruit russe jellies including
puddings, fruit moulds, moulds, puddings, including fruit various jellies liqueurs,
various liqueurs, (q.v.). (see RICE), su6doise (q.v.). RICE), stewed stewed
suédoise Rice à l'impiratrice (see d l'impératrice Rice poMMEs GLACÉES A LA r,l'
NORNoncrecfos À la normande. normande. POMMES Iced apples apples à i la Iced

rcns MlSCELLANEOUS AND ICE CREAMS. CREA MS. ct GLACES MISCELLANEOUS ICES AND
DIVERSES DIVERSES
mousses or or mousselines. mousselines. MoussEs, MOUSSES, MoussELINEs MOUSSELINES
mousses GLACÉES be made made in in two ct-lcfes - Iced mousse or mousseline may be
syrup or custard custard cream. different ways, using using either syrup cream.
different (4 cups syrup (4 Make a a thick for lhe thiek syrup the syrup. syrup.
Make Ingredients for (220"F.) and sngar, 2 cups water boiled to to 104.5"C.
I04·5°C. (220°F.) and cooled). sugar,2 quantities of sttfr ChanAdd equal of fresh
fruit pulp and very stiff equal quantilies lilly tilly cream crearn (see CREAMS).
500 g. Make a a custard using Ingredients for for the using 500 Ingredients the
cream. cream. Make (scant pint, pint, yolks and (18 oz., and 1 16 egg egg yolks
oz., 2* 2t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, 16 (18 I litre (seant (scant pint, pint, 2* 2t
cups) 2f cups) milk. Leave to cool. Add 1 2* + litre (seant powdered gum gum g. G
oz., or., 21 2f tablespoons) powdered fresh cream, cream, 20 20 g. fresh (vanilla,
orange or lemon lemon rind, orange or tragacanth and flavouring (vanilla, and
flavouring fruit, add is made with fruit, If the mousse is etc.). If various
liqueurs, etc.). (scant pint, pint,2f, cups) fresh fresh fruit fruit to the the
cream cream mixture mixture 1 to litre (scant 2* eups) tlitre pulp. frothy. Put Put
into very frothy. Beat the on ice ice until it is is very Beat until it the mixture
mixture on paper. Seal hermetically and them hermetically and moulds lined with
wltite white paper. Seal them hours, according to 2 to to 3 3 hours. salt for 2
leave to to stand stand in in ice ice and and salt the size Ids. size of of the the
mou moulds. pARFArrs GLACÉS the term cuc6s -- ln In former former times times the
term Iced parfaits. PARFAITS lced sweet flavoured with parfait was with for an an
iced iced sweet parfair was used used exclusive!y exclusively for parfoits are made
from from aIl all kinds of of ices, ices. coffee. coffee. Nowadays, Nowadays,
parfails are made are not not encased encased in in a They differ bombes in in that
that they they are a differ from from bombes They simple simple water water iee ice
cream. cream. ice or or iee (l| pints, quart) pints, generolls generous quart)
yolks in I litre litre (I~ Mix 32 32 egg in 1 Mix egg yolks cooled. and cooled.
syrup syrup of28° of28" density, density, strained strained and Strain through
through a a flame like like a a custard. custard. Strain Cook over over a a \ow low
flame Cook quite cold. Flavour is quite cold. Flavour ice until until it it is on
ice fine fine sicve, sieve, and and whisk whisk on j cup) (6 tablespoons, rum or or
brandy, brandy, and and scant î cup) rum with 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant
with (lf pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) crea litre (I~ cream,
stiffiy beaten, beaten. b!end m, stiffly blend in in \I litre for mould. Leave
Leave in in ice ice and and salt salt for Put a parfait mould. the mixture
naparfoit Put the mixture in place in 2 to in a a food food freezer. freezer. 2 to
3 3 hours, hours, or or place with coffee, coffee, chocolate, chocolate, flavoured
with Titis This mixture mixture can can be be flavoured praline, vanilla other
flavourings. flavourings. vanilla and many other praline, and many pouDINGs GLACÉS
puddings can Ice puddings can be be made made prddings. POUDINGS cucfsIce - Iee Ice
puddings. pudding-basin mou moulds shaped in in pudding-basin or in many many ways.
ways. They They are are shaped in Ids or in Ids. rn bombe bombe mou moulds.

!ced Iced

(*

495 495
ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE
MANDE - SCOOp Scoop out out large, large, sound sound cooking cooking apples
appleswithout without MANDE damaging the the skins. skins. Immerse Immerse the the
hollowed-out hollowed-outapples apples for for aa damaging few minutes minutes in
in boiling boiling syrup, syrup, so so that that they they are areslightly slightly
few cooked. cooked. pulp, make From the the pulp, make either either an lce cream
an Ice crecrrn mixture mixture or or aa From (bombe) mixture Mousse (bombe) (see
above). mixture (see above). Flavour Flavour with with Calvados. Calvados. Mousse
If the the apples apples are filled with with mousse are filled mousse mixture,
mixture,chili chill them thernin in If plenty of of ice ice and and salt salt for
for about about 2 2 hours. hours. If If they they are are filled filled with with
plenty just before ice cream, cream, freeze freeze the the mixture mixture first
first and and fi.!1 fill the the skins skins just before ice serving. serving.
pAMpLEMouss GLACÉ grapefruit (filJed). (filled). PAMPLEMOUSSE Iced grapefruit
cr,lcf -- This This sweet sweet Iced prepared in can be be prepared in the the same
same way way as lced tangerines as /ced tangerinesand and can (see below), oranges
(see below), by by filling filling the the skins plain ice skins with with aa plain
ice or or oranges (bombe) mixture Mousse (bombe) mixture made pulp. made from from
the the pulp. Mousse (filled). MELON Iced melon melon (filled). MELoN GLACÉ cucf --
Slice Slice off off the the top top of of aa Iced large cantaloupe cantaloupe melon
melon near near the the stem. stem. Remove Remove ailliquid all liquid and and
large seeds. seeds. Using a a large large spoon, pulp, being spoon, scoop out the
scoop out the pulp, being careful careful not not Using to damage damage the rind.
Make the rind. Make a a kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured water water ice ice or or
ice ice to pulp. cream with with the the pulp. cream Just before before serving,
serving, fiJI fill the the melon melon with with this this ice. ice. Serve Serve in
in aa Just glass dish, large glass dish, surrounded surrounded with with crushed
crushed ice. ice. large Iced melon melon fi.lled fined à n la h Chantilly.
Chantilly. MELON MEr,oN GLACÉ cr.lcf À A LA r,r CHANcneNIced TILLv - Prepare
Prepare the the melon melon as as indicated indicated above. above. Cook Cook the
the TILLY pulp sugar sugar and and rub rub it it through through a a fine fine
sieve. quite cold, sieve. When When quite cold, pulp mix it with stiffly it with
stifry beaten beaten Chantilly (see CREA Chantilly cream crectrn (see CREAMS) MS)
mix flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the inside inside of
of the the melon melon rind rind fiavoured with sugar and and kirsch, leave for for
a a time, time, and and then then fi.!1 fill the the rind rind with with the the
mixture. with Stand the the melon melon in in an an ice ice bucket bucket for for 2
hours before 2 hours Stand before serving. porREs BELLE Iced pears belle belle
angevine. POIRES BELLE ANGEVINE ANGEvnm - Cut Iced Cut pear at each pear at the the
stalk stalk end, end, core core it, it, scoop scoop out out sorne each some of of
the the without damaging the pour boiling syrup the skin and and pour syrup over
flesh without over the fruit. fruit. Fill pear /ced lced mousse flavoured with Fill
the pears with pear with kirsch or with ordinary Pear from the the scooped-out
flesh. Pear ice made from flesh. Arrange pears on the pears on a a napkin-covered
dish, Arrange the dish, or or on on a a foundation ofnougat. foundation of nougat.
Iced pears, pearg filJed. filled. ponrs DUCrrEss GLACÉES crlcfrs -- Scoop Iced
POIRES DUCHESSE Scoop out, out, without some large, large, sound, well-shaped
without damaging the skins, sorne well-shaped pears. Using the pulp, prepare a
(bombe) mixture. a Mousse (bombe) pears. Using Immerse the pears for for 5 the
hollowed-out pears 5 minutes minutes in in boiling syrup.Drain syrup. Drain and
leave to cool. Fill with the mousse mixture and chill plenty chili for 2 hours in
an ice bucket with pIe nt y of ice ice and salt. salt. Iced Iced pineapple.
pineapple. ANANAS ANANAS crrlcf GLACÉ - Choose a large pineapple, regular regular
in shape, with the plume of of its tufted top left on. Remove the tufted tufted top
by a clean cut about 2 cm. (t inch) cm. G: below below the crown. crown. Keep Keep
it to use as a lid. Carefully remove remove all ail the the flestr, flesb, leaving
on the sides and on the bottom bottom of of the the unbroken unbroken rind, pulp
pulp about 1 I cm. (t $ inch) thick. Dust Dust inside inside with with 2 2
tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar, sprinkle sprinkle
with with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) kirsch and and leave in place
for about about 2 hours. in a a cold cold place Just Just before before serving,
serving, fill fill the the rind with Pineappte Pineapp/e ice ice prepared pared
from from the the pulp removed removed earlier, with shredded shredded pineapple
apple steeped steeped in in kirsch kirsch added added to it. Put Put the the
pineapple pineapple on a napkin napkin or a block block of ice slightly hollowed
hollowed out out in in the the middle, middle, and and replace replace the tufted
tufted crown crown on top. top. Iced Iced pineapple pineapple à la bourbonnaise.
bourbonnaise. ,c,NA.NAs ANANAS cucS GLACÉ A À rn, LA BouRBoNNArsE BOURBONNAISE -
Slice Slice off off the the top top of of a large large fresh fresh pineapple. Keep
Keep this this part part with with its its leaves leaves intact intact to to cover
coyer the the pineapple pineapple later. later. Carefully Carefully scoop scoop out
out all ail the the flesh flesh of of the the pineapple. pineapple. Core it, it,
and and cut cut the the remainder remainder into into little little cubes. cubes.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with rum rum and and sugar sugar and and stand stand it it on on
ice. ice.

Iced pineapple pineapplemounted lced ice mountedon pedestal of onaapedestal ofice

(Modern Press) (Modern Press)

Make a Make a mm rum ice icecream. cream. Before Before serving, serving sprinkle
sprinkle the the inside inside of of the the scooped-out scooped-out shell shell
with with rum rum and and sugar sugarand and embed embedit it in in an an ice-
bucket ice-bucket to to chilI. chill. Fill Fill the the shell shell with pineapple
cubes with alternate alternate layers layers of of pineapple cubes and and rum rum
ice ice cream. cream. Coyer pineapple. Serve Cover with with the the top top of of
the the pineapple. Servesurrounded surrounded with with crushed crushed ice. ice.
Iced pineapple à Iced pineapple i la la Chantilly. Chantilly. ANANAS ANANAs GLACÉ
cr.c,cf À A LA r,c, CHANcnA.l.lT1LLY-Proceed tttty-Proceed as as described
described in in the recipe for the recipe for /ced lced pineapp/e pineapple above,
pineapple ice above, replacing replacing pineapple ice by Vanilla ice ice cream by
Vanilla cream with with whipped whipped crearn cream added it. added to to it.
Arrange pineapple on Arrange the the pineapple on a a napkin napkin or or on on aa
block block of of ice ice and and replace replace the the tufted tufted top. top.
Iced pineapple à Iced pineapple i la la créole. ANANAs GLACÉ cr6ole. ANANAS cr,lc6
À A LA ra, CRÉOLE cnEors -Scoop pineapple as Scoop out out the the pineapple as
indicated indicated above. above. Fill Fill with an with an Iced pulp of Iced
mousse mousse made made from from the pineapple alternating the pulp of the the
pineapple alternating with with layers layers of of chopped chopped crystallised
crystallised fruit fruit steeped steeped in in rum. rum. Replace sb covered
pineapple. Serve Replace the the top top of of the the pineapple. Serve on on a a
di dish covered with with a a napkin, or or on on a a block block of of ice. ice.
Iced pineapple à Iced pineapple parisienne 1. A la la parisienne I. ANANAS lx,q,Nls
GLACÉ cllcf À A LA u, PARISIENNE IARISIENNE Prepare a a Banana Banana ice ice and
and flavour flavour with with ChamCham- Prepare pagne brandy. Cut pineapple and Cut
off off the the top top of of the the pineapple scoop out and scoop out
threethreequarters quarters of pulp without without damaging of the the pulp
damaging the the rind. rind. Cut Cut the the pulp into small small dice (4 OZ., g.
(4 dice and and steep steep in in a 125 g. a bowl bowl with with 125 oz., t (4 OZ.,
cup) wild wild strawberries strawberries and 125 g. and 125 I cup) oz, 1 cup) black
black i cup) e. (4 grapes, sugar, and Champagne Champagne brandy. Keep place Keep
in in a a cool cool place until ready ready to to serve. Fill the pineapple rind
rind with with banana banana ice, ice, alternating alternating with with layers
layers of of the the fresh fresh fruit. fruit. Sprinkle Sprinkle each each layer
layer of of fruit fruit with with blanched, finely shredded almonds. Finish Finish
with with a a layer layer of of ice ice cream and coyer cover with the tufted top.
top. Put on a block block of of ice, ice, slightly slightly hollowed hollowed out
out in in the the middle, middle, napkin-covered dish. or on a a napkin-covered
dish. Serve Serve with with Apricot sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) laced laced with
with kirsch. kirsch. Iced pineapple à Iced pineapple parisienne II. i la la
parisienne II. ANANAS nN,c.NA,s GLACÉ crlct À A LA ll PARISIENNE - Scoop rARISIENNE
Scoop out out the the pineapple as as indicated indicated above. above. Fill with
alternate layers layers of of Strawberry Strawberry ice ice and and a a salpicon
salpicon of pineapple pulp, diced (q.v.) of diced and and steeped in kirsch.
kirsch. steeped in Iced tangerines and oranges. MANDARINES ET ORANGES Iced
tangerines and oranges. MANDARTNES ET oRANcEs GLACÉES - Slice Slice off off the the
top top of fruit near crec6es of the the fruit near tbe the stem. stem. Scoop Scoop
out the the pulp pulp carefully carefully so so as as not not to out to damage
damage tbe Fill the the skins. skins. Fill the skins with with a a plain Tangerine
ice or skins Tangerine ice or Orange Orange ice ice made made from from the the
fruit pulp. fruit Coyer with with the the top top of of the the fruit fruit and
serve on napkin. Cover and serye on a a napkin. Melon frappe frappé - Two Two
melons melons are are used used in in the the preparation preparation of Melon of

496
ICE CREAMS AND ICES

ICE CREAMS AND ICES

(RobertCarrwr) Carrier) Chantilly pineapple Icedpineapple lced àd lala Chantilly

(Robert

graniti makeaagranité them,make pulpof ofthem, oneof ofone this thepulp Usingthe
sweet.Using thissweet. flavoured kirsch. withkirsch. flavoured with thestem stem'
nearthe melon near secondmelon . Slice thesecond ofthe topof thetop offthe Sliceoff
the outthe scoopout spoon,scoop Usinga aspoon, Remove seeds.Using andseeds.
liquidand allliquid RemoveaIl pulp thepulp Steepthe rind'Steep therind. todamage
damage the pulp, being notto pulp, caiefulnot beingcarefuJ -ott or maraschino or
kirsch,maraschino port,sherry, sherry, kirsch, on ice inFrontignan, Frontignan,
port, lcein Curaçao. Curagao. very untilititisis bucketuntil icebucket an inan Put
of melon ice very melonin ofthe the theshell shell Putthe iced granitiand theiced
and thegranité ofthe layersof the cold. alternatelayers withalternate Fillwith
cold.Fill flesh the second melon' secondmelon. of the fleshof dish.glass in Servein
Replace top of the melon. Serve aa glass dish. melon. the of top the Replacethe
peachesin pBcnss in the Stew Peaches cardinal. PÊCHES CARDINAL - Stew the peaches
aa CARDINALPeachescardinal.
497 497

completely cold' untilcompletely Leaveuntil vanilla.Leave withvanilla.

flavouredwith syrup flavoured syrup cold. layer of thicklayer fairlytruck dishon
ona afairly ina adish themin Putthem them.Put Iirainthem. Drain of jelly flavoured
redcurrant jelly flavoured icedredcurrant withiced Coverwith ice.Coyer Strawberry
ice. Strawberry on top. strawberrieson wildstrawberries scatterwild andscatter
kirsch.and withkirsch, with top. pEcnes MELBA - This sweet was first made in
Melba.PÊCHES Peach Peach Melba. MELBA - This sweet was first made in fairly thick
with dish silver a Linea silver dish with a a Escoffier.Line byEscoffier. Londonby
London fairly truck on top peeled peaches whiclt Place cream. ice Vanilta of layer
layer of Vanilla ice cream . Place on top peeled peaches which and left vanilla,
withvanilla, flavouredwith syrup steeped hivebeen been have steeped inin aa syrup
flavoured and left peaches are then covered The cold. completely are they untilthey
are completely cold. The peaches are then covered until pur6e. raspberrypurée.
withraspberry with be served in the same way. maybe fruit of kinds Manyother other
Many kinds of fruit may served in the sa me way. steeped in sugar or strawberries
fresh large For instance, For instance, large fresh strawberries steeped in sugar
or
ICHTHYOPHAGY
pears (halved (halvodor kirsch; pears quartered) stewed or quartered) stewed in in
vanillavanillakirsch; flavouredsyrup, syrup, and andchi chilled; nectarines
(peeled, (peeled, stewed stewed in in flavoured lied ; nectarines syrup and and
chilled), chilled), etc. etc. syrup porREs MELBA Pear Melba. Melba. POIRES pears in
Poach the the pears in vanillavanillaPear MELBA - - Poach flavoured syrup. syrup.
Drain Drain and and dry dry them. them.Arrange glass dish Arrange in in aaglass
dish flavoured or aatimbale timbale on onaafoundation foundation of of Vanilla
Vanilla ice ice cre andcoyer crearn cover or am and with raspberry raspberry purée.
pur6e. with ICIITIIYOPHAGY. rcHryopuAcm -- The practioe of The practice of eating
eating ICHTHYOPHAGY. ICHTYOPHAGIE nothing, or or almost almost nothing, nothing,
but fish. Ichthyophagy but fish. Ichthyophagy is is mainly mainly nothing,
practised among peoples. A among seaboard seaboard peoples. A fish fish diet diet
is is said said to to be be practised less nourishing nourishing than than aa meat
meat diet, diet, but but there there are are no no subsubless grounds for stantial
grounds for this view. Fish this view. Fish has has been been credited credited
with with stantial aphrodisiac properties. properties. It It is is also also said
said to to stimulate stimulate the the brain. brain. aphrodisiac These properties
were attributed to fish because of a misThese properties were attributed to fish
because of a misguided belief that that it it con contains proportion of a high
high proportion phosof phostains a guided belief phorus. In fact there is less
phosphorus in fish than in meat, phorus. In fact there is less phosphorus in fish
than in meat, less even than in some vegetables. Fish on the whole is very less
even than in sorne vegetables. Fish on the whole is very easily digested. gives the
digested. As As a result it a result it gives the impression impression of of being
being less less easily filling than than sorne some other other foods, foods, and
and so so it it is is not not favoured favoured by bv filling manual workers.
workers. manual ICING. GLACES cLAcEs DE DE SUCRE sucRE -- Sugar Sugar icing, icing,
which which may premay be be preICING. pared with or without cooking, is used in
confectionery of all pared with or without cooking, is used in confectionery of aIl
kinds. Pas Pastries, petitsfours cakes and and petits (q.v.) ofvarious of various
kinds kinds kinds. tries, cakes fours (q.v.) may ail all be be decorated decorated
with with icing. icing. may Blackcurrant icing. icing. GLACE cr.lcr AU Au CASSIS
cAssrs (3 tableMix ! dl. (3 table- Mix + dl. Blackcurrant juice with spoons, scant
scant -icup) blackcurrant blackcurrant juice with 1 i dl. al (6 tablef, cup) 1O
tablespoons, spoons, scant scant 1 cup) syrup syrup cooked cooked to (lZl.C., to
hard hard ball ball stage stage (121 * cup) spoons, oc., 250"F.). Add Add enough
enough icing icing sugar produce a sugar ta to produce a fairly fairly stiff stiff
250°F.). paste. Mix. This icing must be warmed slightly before use. It paste. Mix.
This icing must be warmed slightly before use. It is often often coloured coloured
with with a a little little Iiquid liquid carmine. carmine. is Using the the same
same method, method, icing icing may may be be made with strawstrawUsing made with
berries, raspberries, raspberries, redcurrants redcurrants and and other other red
red fruit. fruit. berries, Chocolate icing. icing. GLACE cucr AU cuocolAr g. (4 (4
oz., Place 125 125 g. oz, - Place AU CHOCOLAT Chocolate 4 squares) unsweetened,
softened chocolate a bowl. 4 squares) unsweetened, softened chocolate in in a bowl.
Add Add a ferv lukewarm syrup, short thread a few tablespoens tablespoQns lukewarm
syrup, boiled boiled to to short thread stage SUGAR), and and icing sugar. This
This icing stage (see (see SUGAR), icing sugar. icing must must be be used used at
at once. once. Coffee icing. cracr rc,u cAFE - Add Add to to I t litre litre (scant
(scant pint, pint, - Coffee icing. GLACE AU CAFÉ 2| 2-i- cups) cups) very very
strong strong coffee coffee (coffee (coffee essence) essence) enough enough icing
icing sugar to make a fairly paste. sugar to make a fairly stiff stiff paste. This
This icing icing must must be be used used at at onc€. once. put a basin 2*ks.
Fmdant Fondant icing. icing. cucr GLACE AU AU FoNDANT FONDANT - Put in in a basin
2t kg. (5+ lb.) lump sugar. Add l+ litres (2f pints, 2f, pints) oi"tJt (51 lb.)
lump sugar. Add It litres (2-i- pints, 2i pints) water and 100 g.(4o2., I
cup)glucose. and 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) glucose. Cook Cook over over a a high high
flame, flame, skimming skimming from from time time to to time, time, until until
the l6'C. (240'F.) sugar has has reached reached I116°C. (240°F.) or or soft soft
ball baIl stage stage (see (see the sugar sUGAR). SUGAR). Pour the sugar onto a
marble Pour the sugar onto a marble slab slab and and let let it it cool cool a a
little. little. Work Work it it with with a a spatula spatula by by folding folding
the the edges edges towards towards the the put in a centre centre until until it
it is is a a white white and and very very smooth smooth fondant. fondant. Put in a
bowl, bowl, cover coyer with with a a damp damp cloth c10th and and leave leave in
in a a cool cool place. place. To use thefondant. Soften a few tablespoons of the
mixture To use the fondant. Soften a few tablespoons of the mixture in a small
saucepan over a low flame, stirring constantly. in a small saucepan over a low
flame, stirring constantly. Add Add a a little little syrup syrup cooked cooked to
ta short short thread thread stage. stage. Flavour Flavour with with any any
appropriate appropriate liqueur, liqueur, or or add add a a little little coffee
coffee essen@ essence or or melted chocolate. melted chocolate. Colour Colour the
the fondant fondant with with carmine carmine or or any any other other vegetable
vegetable colouring colouring if if desired. desired. Lemm GLACE AU AU crrRoN
CITRON- Made Made with with the the rind rind and and Lemoo icing icing- cLAcE
juice of lemons, as for Orange icing (se below). juice of lemons, as for Orange
icing (see below). put Orange icing. cracr 2 oranges Orange icing. GLACEA ÀL'oRANGE
L'ORANGE-- Putthe thepeel peel of of2 oranges in in I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant scant I c.rp) cup) syrup syrup cooked cooked to to the the hard
hard ball ball stage stage (see (see SUGAR) SUGAR) and and let letit it stand stand
for for 15 15minutes. minutes. juice Add Add the the strained strained juice of
ofthe thefruit. fruit. Put Putthe themixture mixturein ina a bowl, bowl, add add
icing icingsugar, sugar, and and proceed proceed as asfor for other otherkinds
kinds oficing. of icing. This Thisicing icingmay maybe becoloured colouredwith
withaalittle littleliquid liquidcarmine cannineand and a a yellow yellowvegetable
vegetabledye. dye. It Itmust mustbe beused used at atonce. once. put 22egg Royal
icing. icing. GLACE cracr ROYALE RoyALE - - Put eggwhites whites in inaasmall small
Royal bowl. Add Addenough enough icing icing sugar sugar to to make make aafairly
paste, fairly stiff stiff paste, bowl. though it it must mustbe besoft softenough
enoughto to spread spread easily easily on oncakes cakesand and though pastry.
pastry. Mix, without without working working the the eggs eggsand and sugar sugar
too too hard. hard. Mix, preRoyal icing icing for for desserts desserts or or
sweets. sweets. GLACE cLAcE ROY RoyALE Roya] ALE - - Prepared in in the the same
same way way as asordinary ordinary royal royal icing icing with with egg pared
eggwhites whites and very very fine fine icing icing sugar. sugar. Add Add to to
the the.mixture 6 to to8 8drops drops of and ·mixture 6 of juice and lemon juice
and work work with with aa spatula spatula for for 88 to to 10 l0 minutes. minutes.
lemon When the the icing icing is is ready, ready, coyer cover with with damp
paper. Keep damp paper. Keep in When in aa place. cool place. cool Strawberry
fondant fondant icing. icing. GLACE crlcr AU AU FONDANT FoNDANT À A LA Strawberry ~
L,c, FRAISE rRnrs.Cook sugar sugar to (240"F.) or to 116°C. I I 6"C. (240°F.) or
soft (see SUGAR). soft ball stage (see ball stage SUGAR). Cook juice and Add a a
little little strawberry strawberry juice juice. and a few drops a few drops of of
lemon lemon juice. Add Pour it it on on a a marble marble slab slab and work it and
work it with with a a spatula spatula until until very very Pour smooth. smooth.
Using the the sa same method, fondant fondant icing icing may may be be made made
with with Using me method, juice, lemon raspberry juice, juice), or (rind and lemon
(rind and juice), (rind and or orange orange (rind and raspberry juice), or juice
of pulp or from the or from the pulp or juice of other other kinds kinds of of
fruit. fruit. juice), Icing Oavoured flavoured with with mm nrm and and otber other
tiqueurs. liqucrrs. GLACE cLAcE AU Icing AU RHrJM -- Put (6 tablespoons, Put in in
a a bowll bowl I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant! scant I cup) cup) syrup syrup RHUM
(see SUGAR), cooked to to soft soft ball ball stage stage (see SUGAR), 11 l+
tablespoons tablespoons rum rum cooked juice. Add and 1 I teaspoon teaspoon lemon
lemon juice. Add icing icing sugar. sugar. Mix. Mix. Use Use at and at once. once.
Icing made made in in this this way way may may be be flavoured flavoured with with
other Icing other liqueurs. liqueurs. IERCHI a small small fish similar gudgeon.
similar to gudgeon. IERClD - Russian name for a It is is much used in in Russian
cooking, served served fried fried or in in soup. soup. It

Iguana Iguana

IGUANA. lizard, very IGUANA. rcu.lxs IGUANEkind of oflizard, very scarce scarce
except except in in the - A kind tropics. tropics. Iguanas are to to be found found
in in both hemispheres, hemispheres, but there there is is one one species species
which which exists only in America. America. In In spite spite of of its its size,
which precludes precludes its its assimilation assimilation with European European
lizardslizards - though though it it is is akin akin to to these these in in its
its habits, habits, and
preservation. preservation. Its among the the foods foods most most highly highly
prizd prized by by the the Its flesh flesh is is among gourmets gourmets of of
Central Central and and South South America. America. fr,f-Op-fnANCEÏLE-DE-FRANCE -
Some Sorne people people say say that that paris, Paris, the the symbol symbol and
and home home of of the the whole whole gastronomic gastronomic tradition tradition
of of the the lle-deÎ1e-deFrance, France, does does not not possess possess
culinary culinary specialities specialities which which are are particularly
particularly her her own. own. Such Such people people take take no no account
account of of the the magnificent magnificent work work carried carried out out by
by the the master master chefs chefs of ofParisian Parisian restaurants,
restaurants, from from Car6me Carême to to Escoffier. Escoffier. There There were
were also also Gouff6, Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Phil6as Philéas Gilbert, Gilbert,
Marguery, Marguery, pailPailGouffé, Urbain lard, Mourier, Nignon Nignon and and a a
host host of of others. others. lard, Mourier, In In this this vast vast city city
there there are are the the best best cooks cooks and and most most skilful skilful
cordons cordons bleus bleus of of all aIl France. France. Paris Paris abounds
abounds with with foodstuffs foodstuffs imported imported from from abroad abroad
and and brought brought in in from from every every corner corner of of France,
France, not not to to mention mention the the produce produce of ofthe the fertile
fertile soil soil of of the the Ile-de-France, Île-de-France, and and the the
livestock livestock reard reared in in all ail the the dipartedépartements ments
around around Paris, Paris, which which provide provide it it with with savoury
savoury fish, fish, delicate deIicate poultry, poultry, every every kind kind of of
game game and and a a host host of of other other delicious delicious things.
things.
is is almost almost as as graceful graceful and and no no less less agile agile -
the the iguana iguana should be be included among those those harmless harmless
animals animais which which are are worthy worthy of included among

498
ILE.DE-FRANCE ÎLE-DE-FRANCE

Les (FrezclGovernmen! TouristOffice) Ofice) Halles(French Govenr*unl Tourist

l,esHalles

The and grown in ilede-France, and in the theÎle-de-France, are grown The finest
finest vegetables vegetables are the picked in orchards inthe theorchards ispicked
fruit is flavoured fruit delicately flavoured the most most delicately of ts to to
gastronomic deligh delights thegastronomie few of of the list of ofaafew Here is
isaa list of Paris. Paris. Here be regionin in in the theParis Parisregion and in
ilede-France, and found in in the the Île-de-France, befound particular :
particular: Argenteuil hasthe the ofLauris Lauris has that of whichwith with that
asparagus, wruch Argenteuil asparagus,
499 499

peas; greenpeas; reputation France;Clamart Clamartgreen inFrance; bestin thebest

ofbeing beingthe reputation of Arpajon; ofArpajon; the thecauliflower cauliflowerof
Bagnolet;the ofBagnolet; French beans beans of theFrench andasasthe artichokesand
Laonartichokes ofCrécy-sur-Morin; Cr6cy-sur-Morin; Laon thecarrots carrotsof
accuratelyof of paragus; ormore moreaccurately Soissons,or ofSoissons, paragus; the
beansof white beans thewhite ofthe the morelsof Noyon; fragrantmorels thefragrant
Versailles ;the ofVersailles; lettuces of Noyon; the thelettuces thecultivated
cultivated woods Rambouillet;the andRambouillet; Viarmesand Verri6res, Viannes
woodsof ofVerrières,
ILE-DE.FRANCE

RDY
t.'

..

"-Co p;a&
.9enls

...-s."'

,\ Partridge priti, Artichokes. -],Aslaragus11 TRoUT. CRAYFISH

{'Crayfish,Bo:r'r.tread.?iltodes(gritts).

1t

i !

O;;;;:.,

o."t"t,",,,

EEANS i'6olSSonsc? -t=aa l"llatP'"u"Lc! ",Wlers-Cotterets t Grittodes (grills),

wild -,,:F.rabbit terrrnes

Game ternnes Venlson pdrd

f ,'n,h
Snarfs,

;"-^$a
Longourte(Splny (Spinyloblter) lobsrer) àdlalocrème. crimc. Stuffed Stuffed
Langouste

Trrpe

i..

tffiis5:fi,i'i* n ,
Supr€me

r t -

<rab.Loing Loingand and Morin Horin bream. lle-de. bream,Cod CodlIe·de· crab.
France, Green porisienne.French Green Peas Peas ilrila lopOfi,ienne. French France.
potoroes (ried ftiedpOloroes

of sole. Sourl chicken

Chicken marengo. merengo, Saure r. Sourd chicken <hickenChOSleu chorrcur. Chicken

"""i..;}
(i
t:

locremè Chicken àdla cremiand andoU ouP0f(O blon<, Chicken blanc. Dorao
Sweetbread barquettes. barquertes, Braised noir Eraised noi. Sweetbread veou, Sauté
de-eau. veal chasseur. SoutC -eal cholseur. de Veal marengo. marengo. Beer lo made.
mode,Miforon Mirocon of Eeef <ila Veal o( bee,Entrecôte Entre<6re steak steakbercy.
Krdneys <idla lo bee. berry. K,dneys porisienne Saure 5ourd tripe. tripe.
porisienne.

c5cqf9PC5.

Pwde Crdcy, Purde St. Cermoin. Parisian salad. Fried eggs d lo crdole, Eercy eggs,
Godiveou. Rissoles d lo porisienae, Hot
pOtds

Chicken frinchard.

soup, Soupe bonne femme.

St. Maur Julienne, Watercress

i" T'-..
i
,.
,)

lNemours
a

i.
1

Fried tripe. tripe, Munon horico!, Mutton Hutton haricot. l.lutton navarin,
novoria. Fried Shoufder 01 of mutton muttonboulangêre. Pork cutlet! Shoulder
boutonglre, Pork cutler: piguonte, Jambon lo lauce d la pone-moillot, souce
piquanle. ci lombonporce-moillor. Thrush ci lo parisienne. porisienne. ri la Thrush
Roast rook. rook. Roast
Puits d·omour. Wafiles. Tafle/erres d omou, Waffies. fortelettcr Puils

lench. .Clricten

Wafers. Brioches chontilly. Walers. coanrnly. Erioches Gastronornic rnap map ofJle-
de-France of le-de-France Gastronomie

mushrooms of the Paris region, called champignons de paris; mushrooms of the Paris
de Paris; the pot-vegetables grown at Bagneux, Ch6tillon, Saint Denii the pot-
vegetables grown at Saint Denis and and other other places places in in the the
area; area; onions, onions, small small and and large, large, leeks, leeks,
cabbages, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, shallots, various cabbages, carrots,
turnips, cucumbers, shal1ots, various salld-s, spinach, sorrel, chervil, parsley,
parsnips, horsesorrel, chervil, parsley, parsnips, horseradish, beetroot. The The
fruits fruits of of the the Paris Paris orchards orchards have have a a great
reputation; repu tation; the the Chasselas Chasselas of of Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau (those (those from the the king's king's vine-arbour), Andr6zy; the
vine-arbour), of of Thomery and and Andrézy; the peaches of of Montreuil; the
strawberries of valley, Montreuil; the of the the Bidvre Bièvre.Ricart', valley,
tle H6ricart Héricart strawhrry strawberry which which the the barrow-men barrow-
men call call 'Ricart', and and many many other other sweet-smelling sweet-smelling
fruits fruits which which melt melt in in the the mouth, mou th, such such ai as
pears, apples, plums, figs, apricots and nectarines. pears, plums, apricots and
nectarines. paris Excellent meat is sold in meat is in Paris. Paris. What What is
is more, more, the the Paris butchers butchers are are true true artists, artists,
and and their their cuts cuts are are flawless. flawless. pontoise Pontoise veal,
veal, called called river river veal, veal, is is as as tender tender and and as as
delicate delicate as as any any to to be be found. found. paris, in the regions of
In the woods and forests around In the woods and forests around Paris, in the
regions of Versailles, Versailles, Marly Marly and and Saint-Germain-au-Laye,
Saint-Germain-au-Laye, the; there is is an an abundance abundanceof ofexcellent
excellentgame. The The poultry poultry of ofHoudan is is held held in in high high
repute repute for for its its delidelicate cate flavour. flavour. The The
freshwater freshwater fish fish caught caught in in the the Seine, Seine, the the
Marne, the Oise Marne, the Oiseand and the theAisne Aisneare areespocially
especially delicious. delicious. Very good good cheeses cheeses are are made made
round round about about paris, Paris, among which are areCoulommiers,
Coulommiers,Brie, Brie Briede de Melun, Melun, and and the the fres[ creilm
creamcheese cheeseknown knownas asthe theCr0met of ofFontainebleau,
Fontainebleau,which which rivals rivaisthe thefamous famousfresh freshcream
creamcheese cheeseof ofSaumur Saumurand andAngers. Angers. On Onthe thehillsides
hillsides of ofthe the Marne, Marne, which which are are an an extension extension
of of the theneighbouring Champagne Champagnevineyards, vineyards,the thegrapes
grapesgathered gathered produce table wines that are fresh and pleasant to taste.
produce table that are fresh and pleasant to taste.
500 500

parisimne).

Alnolg Among the the pork specialities of the the paris Paris region region are:
Andouilhttes Andouillettes (chitterling sausages); sausages); boudins boudins
noirsnoirs et blancs blancs (black (black and and white puddings); petit-sali;
petit-salé; vean veau piqui piqué (misnamed named since since it it is is not not
made made from veal veal but but from from pork);friands pork) parisims; parisiens;
PAIC Pâté defoie defoie de de cochon cochon (pig's liverp liver pâté);fromage de
dt6);fromage de t?te tête de deporc porc (pork (pork brawn); brawn); hure dc porc d
àh laparisienne parisienne (boar,s (boar's head ri à la laparisienne) parisienne)
Roulafu Roulade de de thte tête de de porc; porc .. pdt| pàté de deporc porc de de
lead Paris; Paris .. rillons rillons and and rillettes; rillettes .. cervelas
cervelas or or sarcisson saucisson d à aire cuire (saveloy or paris (E;lazed j@nbon
glac6 or cooking cooking sausage); sausage);jambon glacé dc de Paris (glazed Paris
ham); c6tes côtes de de porc d à la la charcatilre charcutière (ribs (ribs of of
poirt< porkà la ah charcatibre); "11,'1>','11/"P>,,,,1 •pieds pieds de porc porc d
à ln laparisimne parisienne (pig's (pig's trotters trotters d à /a la
Among Among the the dishes dishes made made from from other other meat meat are:
are: Beef Beef miroton; miroton; shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton d à la la
boulangire; boulangère.. entreciie entrecôte

Long champ, Saint-C loud. Longchamp, Saint-Cloud.

cider is is brewed brewed in in the the Aisne and Excellent eider and Oise
districts, districts, paris region distilled in in the and among the liqueurs
distilled region there the Paris there is one,, the Noym,t dc Poissy, which enjoys
a great and one, Poissy, which a great and longlhe Noyau de established reputation.
established reputation. Cirlinar] specielities - The following soups were invented
parisian chefs, and in in Paris, in Parisian restaurants by Parisian and may be
classed c1assed among the culinary specialities speeialities of paris Paris and the
thl P_aris dcy, Saint-G ermain, par Paris region region:: Cr Crêcy, Saint-Germain,
Parisien, Bonne-femme, isien, Bonne-femme, r e s s onnii r e, S C an t i, B onv ale
t, C omp ii gne, C Cressonnière, Santé, Bonvalet, Cormeilles, Briard, o r me i lle
s,- B r iar d, Soissonnais, Soissonnais, Argenteuil, Argenteuil, Ambassadeurs,
Balvet, Balvet. Faubonne, Faubonne. atthe (invented by Dugl6re Dugléré at the Ca/E
Café Anglais'1, Anglais), Darblay, Darblay, Germiny (invented lermiyl

Bercy Bercy and and entrecilte entrecôte marchand marchandde de vin: vin; the the
celebratd celebrated navarin navarin of mutton, and the the old old halicot ha/icot
of of mutton mutton with with turnips, now now mutton. and callod haricot haricotof
ofmutton;fillet ofbeef àla lab?arnaise h"hlrn'1i,W'(bZarnaise (be;an'lai.se
mutton;fillet of beef d sauce saucehaving havingbeen beencreated createdat atSaint-
Germain-en-Lrye); Saint-Germain-en-Laye); rib ribof of
INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKER y
fashioned/ricandean; du Puits Puits Certin; Certin; sauti sauté of of fashioned
fricandeau; calves' calves' head head fu veal veal chassertr; chasseur; mutton
mutton chops Chanpvallon; Champvallon; sheep's sheep's trotters trollers d à la
poulette; ipigrammes of tmttton,lamb, lamb, etc. Among the special poultry and game
dishes dishes of of Paris Paris are: are: Sautied Sautéed chicken Bercy, Bercy,
Boivin-Champeaux, Chasseur, Chasseur, Durand,fines en Durand, fines herbes, herbes,
Lathuile, Lathuile, Parmentier; Parmentier; sprtng spring chiekm chicken en
cocotte, d à la la Clamart, Clamart, d à la la bonne-femme, bonne-femme, d à la la
diable; diable; squab squab d à cocotte, la la crapaudine, crapaudine, en en
compote, compote, m en papillotes; papillotes; fuckling duckling nantais nantais
with turnips, green peas;. duckling duckling rouennais rouennais d à ln la presse;
presse; with timbale of young young rabbit; rabbit; young young timbale of duckling
Voisin; . gibelotte gibelotte of garentv garenne rabbit rabbit chasseur; . pheasant
pheasant d à h la Sainte-Alliance, Sainte-Alliance, a a majestic majestic creation
creation from from the the hands hands of of Brillat-Savatrn; Brillat-Savarin;
snipe snipe d à lafirc la fine Champagne, d à la Riche; Riche, wild wild duck duck
d à la la presse. presse. Vol-au-vent, flans and tarts tarts filled in in many many
different ways ways have have for for a very long long time time been regarded
regarded as as culinary specialispecialities ties of of Paris. Paris. Special
Parisian Parisian fish fish (sea (sea and and freshwater) and and shellfish dishes
à I'amdricaine; l'américaine; the the various various matelot4s mate/otés of of
dishes are: Lobster Lobster d eels and freshwater fish, for example example
matelotes matelotes &t du Moulin de d Ia Ia ; ; carp la R6pie Râpée and d à la la
canotiire canotière,' eel d à la la tartare tartare; carpà la canotiire
canotière; ; eel bouillabaisse bouillabaisse d à h la parisienne parisienne
(doubtless disapproved disapproved of of by natives of Marseilles, but but
excellent excellent all al! the same, same, and invented natives of by a a Parisian
Parisian master master chef); chef); whiting Bercy, Colbert, Colbert, au by gratin;
all aIl manner of of dishes made of sole, brill, turbot, sea sea perch, etc., brill
Dugliri, perch, etc., Dugléré, young young turbot turbot an au plat, plat, sole
sole d à la normande, normande, sole sole Marguery, Marguery, turbot turbot d à h
la parisienne, spring d la parisieme, coEtilles lobster à coquilles Saint-lacques
Saint-Jacques d àh la parisienne, parisienne, frogs' legs d la poulette. repertoire
are numerous. Among The sauces in the Paris repertoire chasseur, Charcutiire,
chasseur. mentioned: Charcutière, the brown sauces may be mentioned: diable,
hachée, hachie, moelle and Robert. Colbert, diable, Among the white sauces the
following are the best known: Among Choron, Fayot, Biarnaise, Bercy, Béarnaise,
Bercy, Bonnefoy, Bonnefoy, Chantilly, Choron, moutarde, poulette, raviIaguipiCre,
mariniire, mousseline, moutarde, Laguipière, marinière, Viron. and Véron. gote,
Riche and other Parisian of sorne some other random selection selection of Here is
is a a random Here peas à d la la parisienne; d la Ia frangaise, specialities:
Green Grem peas specialities: française, à pdtis Laon; the of Laon; the partridge
Matelote de de Beauvais; Beauvais; the pâtés of Matelote -the of Étampes; Etampes;
poultry pâtés pdtis of lark pdtis of of Houdan; poultry the brioche; the puits
d'amour oublies; the Paris brioche; dchaudCs; puits d'arnour; échaudés; " oublies;
pears of stuffed pears Fdre-en-Tardenois; the stuffed of Fère-en-Tardenois; aniseed
bread bread of aniseed the green and Etampes; the the cakes cakes of Compidgne and
Provins; the Provins; Faucaucoure; the barley-sugar of Moret and the walnuts of
Faucaucoure; of Melun. sugared almonds of
and various dishes dishes and to various L') - Name applied to IMPf RATRICE (A V)a
a cold cold dessert, dessert, a Rice à d l'impératrice, I'impdratice, a is Rice
Among these these is cakes. cakes. Among given under RICE. is given recipe for for
which which is recipe given to to a a variety of The name name given Irrrpfnnrn --
The IMPERIAL. IMPÉRIALE IMPERIAL. 4 litres holding about about 4 plum and large
boUle to a a large bottle holding and also also to plum and (3f quarts, wines and
quarts, 4 quarts), which for Bordeaux Bordeaux wines which is is used used for 4|
quarts), (3! for spirits. spirits. for
dishes various dishes (A V) to various applied to Name applied L') -- Name
IMPÉRIALE IMPERIALE (À kidneys, gras, cocks' and kidneys, combs and cocks' combs
garnished with garnished with trufles,foie gras, garnishes. other similar similar )
o;<1JlIU,~U\;;;". and other and be would which wou meal which An improvised
improvised meal IMPROMPTU -- An IMPROMPTU Id be pot-luck meal in English. meal in
English. as a a pot-Iuck described described as with a a sharp sharp incisions witb
shallow incisions To make make shallow INcISER -- To INCISE. INCISER INCISE.
grilled or or fried. fried. to be be grilled fish that that is is to of fish knife
in in the the skin skin of knife
veal veald à la la bonne bonnefemme; femme; calves' calves' tmdons tendons d à la
lapaysanne; paysanne; the the oldold-

infusion infusion of of mushroom mushroom peelings, peelings, truffies truffles or

or any any kind kind of of herb. herb. INSECTS, EDIBLE. EDmLE. INSEcTEs INSECTES
coMEsrIBLEIi COMESTIBLES - Considering Considering the prodigious .H'-' ..U ......,
....... number number of of insects, insects, which, which, for for the the most
most part, part, feed on on ths greenstuffs greenstuffs which which are are also
also eaten eaten by by man man and and his his flocks flocks and and cattle,
cattle, one one cannot cannot help help being being surprised surprised that that
in in the the west, of famine, no no one one dreams dreams of of eating eating
them. them. west, even even in in times times of They They are are usually usually
objects objects of disgust among among western western peoples who who do do not,
not,. however, however, hesitate hesitate to to eat eat prawns and other shellfish.
shellfish. On On the the other other hand, hand, the the Arabs Arabs and other
other peoples peoples of of Africa Africa and and Asia Asia look look upon upon
certain certain insects insects as as great great delicacies, delicacies, and and
are are surprised at at our our taste taste for for shellfish. shellfish. The John
the the The Hebrew tribes tribes ate ate insects, insects, long before before Saint
Saint John Baptist Baptist was was forced forced to to feed feed exclusively on on
locusts locusts and and other other creatures creatures of of the the same same
kind. kind. In In Leviticus (ll, (II, 2l-22), 21-22), Moses Moses enumerates
enumerates the the animals animaIs which which the the Hebrews Hebrews were were
permitted oe:rmithxl to to eat. eaL Among these these he he mentions mentions four
four insects insects which Saint Saint calls locusta, Jerome Jerome in in his Latin
Latin translation translation caUs locusta, btuchus, bruchus, and attacus.
ophimachus ophimachus and attacus. The The locusta locusta must must have have been
been the the locust, locus t, but but naturalists naturalists have have been been
unable un able to to identify identify the the other other three. three. food
Several other insects, insects, such such as as white white ants, ants, are are
used used as as food Several other by savage savage tribes. tribes. In In ancient
ancient times, times, the the Greeks Greeks prized prized grassgrasshoppers very
very highly, highJy, especially especially the the larvae. larvae. The The Chinese,
Chinese, too, too, greatly upon the the greatly enjoy enjoy eating eating certain
certain insects, insects, and and feast feast upon palm fried chrysalis of of the
silk-worm, silk-worm, while while in in Mexico, Mexico, fried palm and and grubs
are agave agave grubs are sold sold in in the the streets streets like like
chestnuts. chestnuts.

NARY NARY METHODS. METHODS. frn^luctnrINTERNATONAL COOKERY. INTERNATONAL COOKERY.

cuIsINB CUISINE ÉTRANGÈRE-

See CULIvIANDES INTERLARDING. INTERLARDING. pIQUAcE PIQUAGE DEs DES VIANDES - See
CULI-

in other flavouring flavouring in To steep steep herbs herbs or or other INFITsER

-- To INFUSE. INFUSER INFUSE. flavour. liquid ab absorbs the flavour. the liquid
until the boiling liquid, liquid, until sorbs the boiling custards is is of creams
creams and and custards Milk used used in in the the preparation of Milk lemon or
orange or lemon or orange cinnamon" or flavoured by infusing vanilla, cinnamon, by
infusing flavoured rind in in it. it. rind preparation of flavoured by by the the
sauces is is flavoured of sauces Wine used usod in in the the preparation Wine
SOI

Canada cuIsINE Alr{EnIcArxeCOOKERY. CUISINE AMERICAN COOKERY. AMERICAN AMÉRICAINE -

Canadadespite the Canada despite cooking persist home cooking Traditions of of home
Traditions persist in in Canada the The elsewhere. The on convenience convenience
foods growing dependence dependence on growing foods elsewhere. part of of which
part to which varies according of home type of home cooking varies according to
came from. Europe the the family originally came from. and The Huron Huron and
offer. The little to to offer. The native inhabitants had little lived embers, and
in the and lived the embers, beans in cooked their their beans Iroquoi Indians
cooked Iroquoi maize, to to and crushed crushed maize, of water water and made of
mainly on a porridge made pork trotter stew trotter stew However, pork meat.
However, or meaL which they added fish or Indian origin. origin. of Indian is sa
said is id to be of European rather European or rather cookery, or European
cookery, is European it is Otherwise it of Canadian Canadian the basis basis of
forms the that forms provincial cookery that provincial Newfoundland, shores of of
Newfoundland, the shores and on on the cuisine.In cuisine. In Labrador, and and
Swabia and of Mecklenburg, Swabia specialities of rediscover specialities we
rediscover we that reigns English cookery that it is is English Elsewhere, it
Switzerland. Eisewhere, Switzerland. French Canada guards whole of of French the
whole naturally the And naturally supreme. And supreme. regional dishes dishes of
France' the traditional traditional regional secrets of of the the secrets the
communireligious communiCertain religious of Normandy. Certain those of especially
those eSI,ecially forgotten, since fOf'gottelt1. possess old recipes long since
still possess ties in in Canada still ties by the the Ursuline France: a a type
type of gingerbread made by in France: even in even for .., example. nuns of of
Quebec, Quebec, for Duns .... 'UL.'1J, .... game; reserves of of game; immense
reserves with immense country, with rich country, is a a rich Canada is Canada
goats of of the the and the the goats moose, and caribou, moose, eat bear, bear,
caribou, the Canadians Canadians eat the lakes. innumerable lakes. in the the
innumerable Fish abound abound in Rocky Mountains. Mountains. Fish Rocky These grow
in in abundance. abundance. These barley grow oats and and barley maize, oats
Wheat, maize, Wheat, part of principal part most CanaCanaof most form the the
principal cereals form energy-giving cereals energy-giving publishes Agriculture
publishes Ministry of of Agriculture The Ministry meal. The midday meal. dians'
midday dians' houseto encourage encourage hou in order order to of cereal cereal
recipes, in booklets of booklets sepresentation of cereals. of cereals. their
presentation wives to to be be adventurous adventurous in their wives the tree the
maple, of the maple, the tree all, the the country of is, above above ail, Canada
is, Canada thaws Whenever the the thaws national emblem. Whenever is the the
country's country's national that is that sap the sap and the pierced by
collectors, and the sap sap collectors, by the is pierced its bark bark is come,
its come, to a It is is boiled a boiled to sweet. It slightly sweet. and slightly
clear and flows like like water: water: clear flows brown maple maple sugar, light
brown with the the light which, together with syrup, which, jams, oelfulniIll1!
perfuming and jams, sauces and biscuits, sauces form the the basis basis of cakes,
biscuits, of honey. aroma ofhoney. air with with the aroma the Canadian Canadian
air the South The cookery cookery of of South America -- The Soutt America and
South Central and Central or Portuguese Portuguese Spanish or version of of Spanish
America is is aa spicier spicier version America
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONALCOOKERY
(depending upon anisitu (depending upon tbe the region), region), wrule while tha!
that of of Central Central cuisine America, and and of particular, is of Cuba Cuba
in in particuJar, is individual individual in in characcharacAmerica, (Cuba boasts
ter. (Cuba boasts a a wide wide range range of produce, ail of food food produce,
all of of ter. quality.) excellent quality,) excellent Delicately fleshed fleshed
fish fish are are caught caught in in the the Caribbean Caribbean Sea Sea
Delicately and in in the the Gulf Gulf of Mexico. The The best of Mexico, best of
of these theseare are cabrilla, cabrilla, and cabra mora, mora, cherna cherna
criaI/a. criolla, and and cherna cherna americana, americana, Tbey They are are
cabra all spindle-shaped spindle-shaped and and vividly vividly coloured, coloured.
aJl In the the samc same seas seas are are found found fisb fish that that belong
belong to to the the same same In family as perch: the as the the perch:
rabirrubia, the pargo colorado, the rabirrubia, the pargo colorado, the the family
pargo amaril/a, amaiillo, to to name name only only a a few, few. pargo A specics
species closely closely related related to to the the above above includes includes
the the ronco ronco A carbonero, tbe the boca boca colorada, colorada, the the
ronco ronco amarillo, amarillo, the the carbonero, jeniguana, etc, etc. Fish Fish
of of the the mackerel mackerel family family also also abound abound in in
jeniguana, these wa waters. these ters, All these fish fish are are scrved grilled
or served boiled, boiled, grilled or fried, fried. Sorne Some are are Allthese
considered more more suitable suitable for for marinating, marinating. considered
The oysters oysters caught caught off off the the shores shores of of Cuba Cuba are
are delicious, delicious. The They include include a a va(Îcty variety with with a
a completely completely wrute white shell, shell. They Among the the shellfish
shellfish is is a giant prawn prawn (sorne (some weigha lype type of of giant
weighAmong (14 oz,), g. (14 ing as as much much as 400 g, as 400 prawns are oz.).
These These prawns are a a blackishing blue colour colour when when they they
emerge emerge from from the the water water but but cooking cooking blue changes
them them to to red, red. changes High-quality meat meat is is imported imported
from from the the United United States; States; Higb-quality poorer home-produced
the poorer home-produced beef beef is is consumed consumed by by the the country
country the people. The The latter latter cornes comes from from oxen oxen which,
which, working working in in a a hot people, hot yield Jean, country as as they
they do, do, yield lean, not very tasly tasty meaL meat. country not very Veal is
better, mutton is mediocre, good but pork is of of good mediocre, but pork is Yeal
is better, mutton is quality. Poultry Poultry is is scarce scarce and and of of
inferior inferior quality quality in in Central quality, America. Eggs, of of
course, course, are are also also scarce, scarce. America, Eggs, grows a Cuba grows
a wide wide range range of of vegetables, vegetables, many of them Cuba many of
similar to to those those found found in in our our markets. similar markets, In ln
Central America there plants such are edible edible plants such as as manioc,
Chinese potatoes, there are manioc. Chinese pOk'\toes. yams, Indian corn, (the
large corn, plantain in yams, Indian plantain (the large banana banana uldd used in
cooking), and small Indian Indian pumpkin (cahbaza). There There cooking), and the
the small pumpkin (calabaza), grapefruit, citrons, are grapefruit, several
varieties are citrons, severa! varieties of of oranges, oranges, lemons, lemollS,
sour red and and yellow sour limes, limes, mangoes, mangoes, guavas, guavas, red
yellow bananas, bananas, anonas, coconuts, avocado pears, anonas, coconuts, avocado
pears, custard eus lard apples, appJes, etc. etc, The special dishes The special
dishes of of Central Central Am'erica Am'erica are are all ail highly highly spiced
and spiced and most most of of them them contain contain green green peppers.
peppers, Fish Fish dishes dishes qdole include include cod cod d à la la créole
(bacalao (bacalao d à la i11 criolla); criol/a), cod cod Biscay-style; Biscay-
style, rnarinated West Indian camarones) fried fish ; West marinatedfish; Indian
red red prawns prawns ( (camarones) fried in in orl; cherna ; octopus cherna with
wi/h onions onions; oc/opus with wi/h pimentos. pimentas, oil; Meat ahearty Meat
dishes dishes include include olla ol/a podrida, podrida, a hearty stew stew made
made from from a a variety variety of of meats, meats, found found in in the the
parts parts of of the the country country of of Iberian lberian origin; origin;
sancocho, sancocho, which which is is a a type type of of olh alla podrida;
podrida; puchero, a Spanish-style Spanish-style pot-au-feu; pot-au-feu; monteria,
monteria, a a chicken crucken and puchero, a tomato tomato hash hash garnished
garnished with with yams, yams, potatoes potatoes and and white white Indian corn
cobs rice surrounded Indiancom cobs and and served served with with Cuban-style
Cuban-stylericesurrounded with with bananas bananas fried fricd in in oil; oil;
various various types types of of meat meal balls balls called albondiguillas
albondiguillas de de carne; carne; tasajo tasaJo d à la la cubaine cubaine (minced
(minced cured cured beef in tomato tomato sauce sauce and and served served with
with CubanCubanbeef simmered simmered in style style rice rice and and fried fried
bananas); bananas); pork pork chops chops Cuban-style, Cuban-slyle, or with with
rice, rice, or or d à I'espagnole; l'espagnole; marinated marinated rabbit; rabbil;
tarnales. lamales, Nearly Nearly all ail South South American American dishes
dishes are are served served with with rice. rice, This is prepared, prepared,
Cuban-style, Cuban-style, d à la la criole créole or or d àh la valencienne.
valencienne, This is The vegetable The vegctable specialities specialities of of
the the country country include include a a variety variety of of ways ways of of
preparing preparing potatoes potatoes which wbich along along with with ricen riee,
bananas bananas and and Indian Indian com corn take take the the place place of of
our our bread bread and and most most of of our our vegetables vegetabJes in in the
the diet diet of of the the natives natives of of the the West West Indies lndies
and and Central Central America; America; bananas bananas and and plantain,
plantain, eaten eaten raw raw and and used used in in cooking; cooking; Japanese
Japanese and and Porto Porto Rican Rican yams, yams, served served braised,
braised. or or in in hazelnut hazelnut butter, butter, or or d à la la criole;
créole; roots roots of of cassava cassava or or manioc manioc prepared prepared
like like yams; yams; gombos gombos prepared prepared d à I'espagnole l'espagnole
or ; avocado or d à la i11 criole créole, avocado d à la i11 crdole créole or or in
in salad, salad, palm palm cabbage cabbage in in salad. salad, The The orchards
orchards of of Central Cenlral America America contain contain many many delicious
delicious fruits, fruits, most most of ofwhich wruch are are exported exported to
to Europe. Europe,
502 502

The large large custard custard apple apple is is the the biggest biggest member
member of of the the The anona family, family. This This fruit, fruit, which which
can can weigh weigh as much as as much anona as 3 3 kg, kg. (6i lb,) lb.) is is
sometimes sometimes called called sour sour sop sop in in English, English. When
When it it (61 reaches maturÏly pleasant aroma, maturity il it exudes exudes a a
pleasant aroma. !ts Its dense dense white white reacbes flesh, with with large
large black black seeds, seeds, is is slightly slightly acid acid and and a a tasty
tasty flesh, beverage is is obtained obtained by by crushing pulp and crushing the
the pulp and mixing mixing it it with with beverage four or or five five times
times ilS its volume volume of of water. water. four (small custard Anonas (small
custard apples) apples) are are shaped shaped rather rather like like Anonas
artichokes. The The crcam-coJoured cream-coloured flesh flesh is is sweet sweet but
rather but rather artichokes, insipid. They They are are eaten raw. eaten raw.
insipid, The mamey mamey of grow to of Santo Santo Domingo Domingo can can grow to
the The the size size of of a a small melon, yellow. It melon. Ils Its skin skin is
is truck thick and and its its flesh flesh yellow, It con contains small tains a
very very large stone. Ca large stone, Called the apricot apricot of of the the
Tropics, Tropics, il it has, has, a lied the apart from from the pulp, no the col
colour of its its pulp, no similarity similarity to to Ihis this fruit. fruit.
apart our of The fruit fruit is is usually usually stewed, stewed. A A certain
certain bitterness bitterness remains remains The whatever method preparation is
method of of preparation is chosen. chosen. whatever The red red mamey, mamey,
despite despite its its name, name, belongs belongs to to a a different different
The family. Its Its other other name name in in Central Central America America is
is sapota. sapota. The The family, skin of tbis this fruit fruit is is woody woody
and and iL~ its strawberry-coloured strawberry-coloured flesh flesh skin has the
consistcncy consistency of a a ripe banana, banana. It is is usually eaten eaten
raw, raw. has Guavas come come in in several several varieties, varieties. Sorne
Some are are orangeorangeGuavas shaped, others pear-shaped, others others pear-
shaped, others again again look look like large figs, figs. shaped. The ~esh
generally eaten is insipid and and is is generally raw. It may also eaten raw. also
be be The flesh is jellies. stewed or made into jellies, stewed shape according to
their species, species. Usually Mangoes vary in shape pears both they resemble
pears both in in colour colour and and shape, Their pulp is shape. Their they juicy
but slightly bitter in in flavour. flavour. very juicy citron is is the the biggest
biggest fruit fruit of the the lemon family, family. This The citron fruit is
hardly hardly ev ever It is usually preserved. fruit cr eaten raw. raw, Il
preserved, grapefruit is the biggest fruit of the orange family, The grapefruit
family. In it is called either erther pomelos, English pomelos, or by its EngJish
Central America it name. name, Kumquats are small fruits of the orange orange
family. Kumquats family, They are eaten raw like about the size and shape of olives
and may be ealm almonds since their skin is tender and not bitter. They may stewed,
or pickled also be stewed. pickled in vinegar. From the Argentine (Spanish
influence) to Brazil (PortuArgentine (Spanish guese guese influence), from Peru to
Bolivia the same dishes (with (with only slight variations) appear again and only
variations) and the same spices spices appear again. again, Beer and rum are drunk
in Columbia, excellent beer beer and chica in Bolivia. Bolivia, There Thcre are
vineyards in the Argentine, Argentine, and Uruguay and Peru. Peru, Chile is the
largest wine-producing wine-producing area (see WINES), (see WINES). United
StatesStates- The The history history of of cooking cooking of of the the United
United States is closely closeJy related to to the history history of the country.
country, When the early settlen settlers arrived, arrived, they found the the
Indians, Indians, who had had been been living living off off the the land land for
for centuries, eating eating the the animals animais and and birds birds of of the
the plains plains and and forests; foresls; fish fish and shellfish shellfish from
from the the seas, seas, lakes, fruits and nuts; nuts; a a great lakes, rivers and
streams; and wild fruits variety of of greens, greens, and corn (maize). (maize),
Most Most of the the settlers, seulers, beginning in the the 1500s, 1500s, followed
followed beginning with with the the Spanish Spanish explorers explorers in by in
the the 1600s, 1600s, and and not not long long after, the the Dutch, by the the
British British in French, French, Germans, Gerrnans, and and Scandinavians,
Seandinavians, arrived arrived in the the New New World native plants plants to to
start a a World with with domestic domestic animals animais and native new new life
life comparable comparable to 10 the the one one they Ihey had had left left
behind. behind, Many Many of of them them incorporated incorporated into into their
their traditional traditional eating habits habits certain certain Indian Indian
foods, foods, especially especially corn. corn, By By the the nineteenth nineteenth
century, century, people people from from every every corner corner of of the the
globe globe had had come come to to this this country, country, settling seuling in
in different different areas. areas, Thus Thus regional regional cooking cooking in
in the the United United States States can can be be attributed attributed in in
part part to to the the resources resources of ofan an area, area, but but also
also to to the the people people who who settled seuled there Ihere and and adapted
adapted their their native native cooking cooking habits habits to to what what
nature nature had had to to offer. offer. Many Many factors factors enter enter
into into the the American American gastronomical gastronomical picture. important
are the the natural natural resources resources of of the the picture, Most Most
important whole country, modern modern food food handling handling and and rapid
rapid transportatransportawhole country, tion, tion, food food technology,
technology, nutritional nutritional emphasis, emphasis, and and comcommunication.
munication,
INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY
The climatic climatic and and geographical geographical conditions conditions of of
the the United United The Statesare are so sovaried varied that that from from the
the fertile fertile valleys, valleys, vast vast forests forests States and plains,
plains, lakes, lakes, rivers rivers and and streams, streams, and and extensive
extensive coastal coastal and regions, almost almost every every food food known
known to to man man can can be be produced produced regions, With modern modern
technology, technology, the the produce produce of of witbin its its borders.
borders. With within any one one section section of ofthe the country country can
can be be enjoyed enjoyed in in any any other. other. any For example, example,
oranges oranges and and grapefruit grapefruit grown grown in in Florida Florida or
or For California are are sold sold in in every every State State in in the the
Union. Union. Maine Maine California lobsters are are served served in in Texas,
Texas, and and oysters oysters and and crabs crabs from from lobsters in Chicago.
Chicago. This This means means that that very very Maryland are are served served
fresh fresh in Maryland few foods foods are are unique unique to to any any one one
area, area, but but there there are are still still few as their their own' own. To
To special dishes dishes that that certain certain localities localities claim
claim as special mention a a few. few, baked baked beans beans and and brown brown
bread bread belongs belongs to to mention Boston, and and lobster lobster stew stew
to to Maine. Maine. Fried Fried chicken, chicken, hominy hominy Boston, grits and
and pecan pecan pie pie are are at at home home south south of of the the Mason-
Dixon Mason-Dixon grits line; roast roast pork pork tastes tastes best best in in
Iowa; Iowa; and New New Orleans Orleans is is line; where one one finds finds the
tbe best best Creole Creole cooking. cooking. where Food technology, technology,
which which concerns concerns itself itself in part with the the Food of food,
takes takes much much of the hard processing and and packaging packaging of
processing work of food food preparation preparation out of the tbe home or
restaurant restaurant work kitchen. This, This, together together with witb
country-wide distribution, distribution, kitchen. tends to to standardise American
food. The whole country is tends highly nutrition-conscious. nutrition-conscious.
Great emphasis emphasis is placed placed on the mineral higb vitamin and minerai
importance of eating foods with high importance for its quite as as much and sold
mucb for sold quite content; food is advertised and food value value as as for for
its its enjoyment. enjoyment. Food'fads Foodfads extolling the food and come and
food or health-giving properties or another come properties of one one food health-
giving gO,but nutritional health remain go, but the basic requirements for
nutritional constantly in the minds of most Americans, professional and constantly
domestic, who plan meals. subThe business, with contributing submain contributing
with its its main The food food business, One divisions, represents a major
industry. One of American industry. major part of books, magazine subdivision
magazine with cook cookbooks, communication, with is communication, subdivision is
proarticles, television proradio and and television columns, radio newspaper
columns, articles, newspaper grammes of and preparation of grammes ail all dealing
with the production and gourmets who who food. The United of gounnets share of its
share can boast its States can United States strive communicamedia of of
communicavarious media the various strive constantly, through the try. tions, to
raise country. of the the coun gastronomic standards standards of raise the the
gastronomic most Hotels as in in most States, as United States, in the the United
restaurants in Hotels and and restaurants In countries, luxurious. In most
luxurious. the most to the simplest to the simplest from the range from countries,
range Francisco, large and San San Francisco, York, Chicago New York, Chicago and
as New cities such such as large cities there food from from in food specialise in
which specialise restaurants which are many many restaurants there are other
resgenerally, the the better better reslarge cities cities generaUy, In large
countries. In other countries. taurants international with international cooking
with American cooking combine American taurants combine cooking, predominant
ininthe predominant having the variety having French variety the French cooking,
the fluence. breadth length and and breadth the length across the and across cities
and Outside the the cities fluence. Outside of restaurants inns, restaurants small
inns, of small thousands of are thousands there are country there of the the
country and in specialising in establishments specialising of the the
establishments hotels. Sorne Some of and botels. regional reputations. national
reputations. attained national have attained cookery have regional cookery
Peculiarly to dedicated to eating-places dedicated the eating-places are the
American are Peculiarly American eating possible. aspossible. money as little money
foras as little possible for quickly as aspossible asquickly eating as These quick-
order meals mealsare are where quick-order lunch counters counters where include
luncb These include served, from aa servethemselves themselves from customersserve
wherecustomers cafeteriaswhere served, cafeterias ri ety of wide hamburger
andhamburger hot-dogand ubiquitous hot-dog theubiquitous foods, the variety of
foods, wide va stands, patronsin in topatrons areserved served to mealsare
wheremeals and drive-ins drive-ins where stands,and their theircars. cars. Certain
surprise thatsurprise habits that gastronomical habits American gastronomical
Certain American visitors people mostpeople withwhicb whichmost thespeed speed with
arethe country are tothe thecountry visitors to eat, plate, onaaplate, togetheron
areserved servedtogether thatare foodstbat numberof offoods eat,tbe the number the
vegeandvegejelliesand meatand withmeat servod with conserves served andconserves
sweetjellies the sweet tables, These produceused. used.These quantities of ofdairy
dairy produce great quantities and the thegreat tables, and are of thenature
natureof butthe characteristics, but Americancharacteristics, areadmittedly
admittedlyAmerican the population, ofits itspopulation, natureof
internationalnature theinternational country,and andthe thecountry, make cookery
such, as such, cookeryas States UnitedStates defineUnited todefine impossibleto
makeititimpossible other producingand and ofproducing capableof Americaisiscapable
thatAmerica thanto tosay saythat otherthan cooking American FavouriteAmerican
world.Favourite foodin intbe theworld. thefinest finestfood cookingthe foods corn
lobster,corn chicken,lobster, ham,cbicken, chops,ham, lambchops, steaks,lamb
foodsare: are:steaks, on cream. pieand ice cream. andice cob,apple applepie onthe
thecob,
503 503

When When Spanish Spanish monks monks planted planted a a few few vines vines
around around Los Los little had they century, eighteenth in the Angeles idea that
that Angeles in the eighteenth century, they had little idea 200years 200 years
later la ter America America would would be be the the second second biggest
biggest winewineproducing in the the world. world. producing continent continent in
(thanks however ago, century It It was was not not until until a a century ago,
however (thanks to to a a Hungarian Hungarian called called Harszthy) Harszthy)
that that California California became became the the centre of the the American
American wine wine industry. industry. centre of American as 'dry'wines 'dry' wines
(white (white or or red red American wines wines are are classified classified as
or 'dessert' and wines 14°), and 'sweet' 'sweet' or 'dessert' wines. wines. wines
not not exceeding exceeding l4'), Some of the the grower; grower; others others
have have European European Sorne bear bear the the name name of names. names.
States. A of alcohol a1cohol is is consumed consumed in in the the United United
States. A great great deal deal of also homeThis This ls is mainly mainly derived
derived from from cereals' cereals. There There is is also home*!gl9' produced
produced gin gin and and imported imported Scotch Scotch whisky. whisky. fu On q.
the whole, however, Bourbon whisky whisky which whicb however, Americans Americans
prefer prefer their their own own Bourbon is distilled distilled from from maize,
maize, or or Canadian Canadian rye rye whisky. whisky.

jam: gerüllte gefiillte Tascherl Tascherl with jam: pastries filled filled witb
Small pastries Small
(p6tisserie viennoise) viennoise) (pâtisserie

Austrian AUTRIcHIENNE - Austrian cursINE AUTRICHIENNECOOKERY. CUISINE AUSTRIAN

COOKERY. AUSTRIAN Oriental and Oriental German and Italian, Gennan contains
ltalian, and contains refined and is refined cuisine is cuisine Hungarian of
Hungarian isof goulasch' which which is The traditional traditional goulasch,
influences. The influences. sauce, thin sa very thin in aavery beefcooked ofsaut6ed
consists of origin, consists origin, sautéed beef cooked in uce, also served served
peppers are arealso peppers. Sweet Sweet peppeTS garnistred with sweet peppers.
with sweet garnisbed with made with It is ismade known.It wellknown. is weil beef
is boiled beef Viennese boiled rt,rffed. Viennese stuffed. and salads and by saJads
isaccompanied accompanied by and is meat and tender meat well-hung, tender well-
hung, escalope, vealescalope, is aa veal Wiener-schnitzel is iompotes. Wiener-
schnitzel various compotes. various butter. inclarified clarifiedbutter. friedin
thenfried breadcrumbed, tben breadcrumbed, pastries: puddingsand andpastries:
ofpuddings country of all the thecountry isabove above ail Austria is Austria
known. wellknown. areweil andSacher-lOrte Sacher-torteare torrcand Linzertorte
Mehlspeisen, Linzer Mehlspeisen, with boundwitb eggsbound andeggs flourand
quenelles made of flour madeof arequenelles Nockerl are Nockerl more andmore
butsweeter sweeterand Baden but ofBaden Spdtzle of theSpiitzle similarto to tbe
milk, similar milk, served poppyseeds and andserved with poppyseeds aresprinkled
sprinkled with They are delicate.They delicate. out rolledout doughrolled verystiff
stiffdough ofaavery consists of Strudelconsists with cream. cream.Strudel with
kindofapple of apple of akind layersofa withlayers andover overwitb foldedover
overand thenfolded thinlythen thinly pancakewhich whichisis jam.Kaiser-schmarren
sweetpancake thicksweet Kaiser-schmarrm isisaathick jam. ofthese these Thetriumpb
firms.Tbe triumphof panas mixturefinns. asthe themixture inthe thepan divided in
divided pruneswitb with isthe Zchwetschgen-kniidel - - prunes theZchwetschgen-
knodel Viennesesweets sweetsis Viennese ina a wrappedin thenwrapped sugar,then
ofsugar, lumpsof bylumps replacedby theirstones stonesreplaced their fried.
pastryand potatopastry andfried. veryligbt lightpotato very quantitiesof red ofred
Largequantities lager.Large anexcellent excellentlager. makesan Austriamakes
Austria European CentralEuropean produced. See See alsoproduced. arealso winesare
whitewines andwhite Central and section. inthis thissection Cookeryin Cookery .
the Belgiumisisthe BELGE- - Belgium cutsINEBELGE COOKERY.CUISINE BELGIAN
BELGIANCOOKERY. suband cityand ofthe the The citizens fairs'.The 'puddingfairs'.
of'pudding country citizens of city subcountryof celebrating dayscelebrating three
spendthree forexample, example, Bruisels,for spend days urbs oiBrussels, urbsof
although for great food,for love of with countrywith aa country aa great love of
food, although theirs. theirs.ItItisis French ofFrench delicaciesof thedelicacies
tothe wholeheartedlyto surrendering surrenderingwholeheartedly his own faithfultoto
has remained gourmet Belgiangourmet cuisine, the Belgian bas remained faithful bis
own the cuisine, and spring vert au eel include These eel au vert (a(a spring and
national incJude specialities.These nationalspecialities. celebrated whichthe the
for carbonnade Flemish dish); carbonnade for which celebra ted summer Flemish
summerdish);
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY INTERNATIONAL
national beer, beer, gueze larnbic, seems specially designed; national choezels au
au madire; fricadelles bruxefoises (fried mince choezels balls); l'oie
l'oieàdl'instar I'instar deVisé (goose Vis6-style); hochepot Yisi(goose balls);
gantois (Ghent (Ghent hotchpot); hotchpot); kouyn pruneu (rabbit with kouynmet
metpruneu gantois prunes),essentially essentially aaFlemish Flemishdish; dish;hop
hopshoots; shoots;Brussels prunes), Brussels pdt6namurois mdjvg; pâté (Namurbrioche
namuroisbrioché briochb (Namur brioche pastry pie); endive; andthe thesucculent
succulent dishes dishesàdla (calves'kidneys, lirks, hliégeoise liigeoise(calves'
and crayfish, etc.) etc.)which whichfor for many many food foodloyers loversare
arethe the jewels of Belgian cuisine. cuisine. The Thesauces sauces are areail
allseasoned seasonedpredominantly predominantly juniper berries, with juniper
givingthe berries, giving thedishes dishesaadistinctive distinctive flavour.
flavour. Oneof of Belgium's Belgium'snational national dishes dishesis iswaterzoii
One waterzoii (spouting water). Once Oncemade madeof of fish fish from from the
theFlemish Flemish coast, water). coast, it now consists of of chickens chickens
from from the the fannlands, farmlands, especially consists especially those those
round Ghent. Ghent. It It is isalso also one one of of the the most most ancient
ancient of round ofBelgian belgian dishes. Legend Legend has has it it that that
Charles Charles V Vconsidered considered it dishes. it one oneof ofthe the (and
there best (and painting in there is is aa painting in humorous humorous vein best
vein by by Herbo Herbo to to illustrate this). this). iIlustrate Brillat-Savarin,
once once initiated initiated into into the the delights Jjr:IlHllI-~~a\larm.
delights of of Belgian Belgian cuisine, geatly enjoyed waterzoii, waterzoii, Namur
Namur pie, pie, and and the thedishes dishes distinctly Latin flavour yith aa
distinctly flavour such such as as those with those à d la h liégeoise. liigeoise.
L'oie à d l'instar I'instar de Visi surprised dc Visé surprised but did not but did
L'oie not tempt tempt him. him. The The origin of of the the recipe, although
comparatively comparatively recent, origin recent, is is much much disputed. It It
is is said to owe its creation creation to disputed. police to an an angry police
inspector who, years ago, who, sixt sixty ago, was was in inspector Y years in
charge of police police headquarters in in the the channing charming Meuse Meuse
village village of Vise. One headquarters One day day he was called upon was called
upon to to settle settle a a dispute dispute concerning goose that he concerning a
a goose that had wandered wandered onto onto the the public highway highway and had
and been been run run over over by by a carter. carter. The The owner goose
demanded owner of the the goose a demanded nine nine francs francs compensation
from from the the carter carter and and said said that compensation that he he
could could keep keep the the dead bird. bird. The The carter carter refused
refused to pay more dead to pay more than than six six francs francs said, the
goose goose was was no no use since, he said, use to to him. 'As you do do not wish
wish to to have the bird,' 'As bird,' the police mspec:tor inspector said to to the
the carter, carter, 'pay him him the the six six francs francs you have
offered.' .As for you, Then he he said to to the owner of the goose, goosg 'As you,
since you are detennined determined to yourself of the to rid rid yourself the
creature, creature, here are this fellow's fellow's six six francs francs and here
are and here are three three from from me. me. That That makes which is you asked.
is the the amount makes nine, which amount you asked. l'li I'll take take the the
goose myself.' The police inspector took the goose home and prepared it The i" way.
He in tlrg the following way. He trussed and and placed placed it in a a large
cooking pot, together with the giblets, and and covered covered it wiih salted
water. This was brought to the boil and skimmed. He addod_2 added 2 heads heads of
garlic, some sorne onion, onion, a few carrots, a a bouquet garni,2 garni, 2 cloves
cloyes and several several white white peppercorns. pepperc:orns. When When the
bird was was cooked, cooked, he carefully jointed it it and simmered the the pieces
gently in equal parts of goose fat and butter. butter. He He then then made made a
a white wrute roux from from goose fat, flour, and and a little little goose goose
stock. This, when when boiled, boiled, produced produced a a rather rather thick
truck sauce. sauce. He He then then added added 4 4 egg egg yolks, a fav few pats
pats of of butter, butter, and and cream. cream. He He sieved sieved the the sauce,
sauce, and tossed tossed in in a few few cloves cl oves of of garlic garlic
previously previously cooked cooked in in milk. milk. Finally Finally he he
arranged arranged the the goose portions on on a a large large plate plate and and
poured poured the the sauce over over goose portions them. them. Another Another
recipe recipe appears appears under under GOOSE. GOOSE.
The rétèche: Thenational nationalpâtisserie pdtisserie specialityisis ritiche:flaky
pastry flakypastry stuffed or stuffedwith withvegetables, vegetables,cheese cheese
or fruit.Hungarian Hungarianwines winesare are excellent, excellent,the themost
mostfamous famousbeing beingTokay. Tokay.There Thereisisalso alsoan an apricot
apricotliqueur liqueurcalled calledbarack. barack. Beer (Pilsen)isisthe
Beer(Pilsen) thenational nationalbeverage beveragein inCzecboslovalda.
Czechoslovakia. Pork, Porlga abeef pot-au-fan(hovesy beefpot-au-feu (hovesymaso),
potatoes,goose, maso),potatoes, goose,and and cabbage cabbageare arethe thestaple
staplefoods. foods. The TheOrient Orienthas hasbeen beenthe themain maininfluence
influencein inRumanian Runanian cookery, cookery, which which isisbased basodon
porkand onfish, fish,pork game.The andgame. Thewines wines are areexcellent.
excellent. Bulgarian Bulgariancookery cookery is isaa blend blend of Turkishand
ofTurkish Russian andRussian influences. influences.Tchorba Tchorba soup yogurt
reign soupand andyogurt reignsupreme. supreme.There There is is aaplum plumspirit
spiritcalled calledslivovitz. slivovitz. Yugoslavian Yugoslavian cookery cookery is
isas asvaried varied as asthe theraces racesand andthe the climate. climate. Serbs,
Serbs, Croats, Croats, Slovenes Slovenes and and Bosnians Bosnians ail all eat eat
H",ne."r,,,n stews, Italian pastas and Turkish pastries, and Hungarian stews,
Italian pastas and Turkish pastries, and drink beer and andwine. wine. In InGreece,
Greece, there there is isbeef beefin in the the north, north Jean leanmutton mutton
in inthe the south, south, fish, fish, olive oliveoil, (see Turkish oil,mézés mizis
(see Turkish cookery cookery below) below) and and ouzo (the raki of the other
Mediterranean coast) everywhere. ouzo (the raki of the other Meditenanean coast)
everywhere. Greek Greek wines wines are are generally very sweet. sweet.Samos
S.amos is is one oneof of them, counterpart of the hVIr!n)mel hydromel of of the
the Ancient Ancient Greeks. Greeks. Retsina is flavoured with resin.

importance 11'",... ,.-"rt",nf'p and and distinction distinction comes cornes

lfungary, symbolised symbolised for for goulasch vsby and paprika. paprika. The The
latter, latter, however, is is a a recent recent us goulasch and innovation,
innovation, dating dating from from the the Turkish Turkish occupation. occupation.
paprikaPaprikaflavoured flavoured dishes dishes include include goulasch goulasch
(meat (meat soup soup or or ltew), stew), pdrkdlt porkolt (a (a thicker thicker
stew stew in in which which onion onion predominates), predominates), tokany tokany
(with (with the the meat meat thinly thinly sliced); sliced); paprikaihe paprikache
(stew (stew made made with with white white meat meat or or fish fish and and
flavoured flavoured with with sour sour cream) cream) and and szekelygylyas
szekelygylyas (pork, solu sour crearn cream and and sauerkraut\. sauerkraut).
Chanlctlem;t1c ingredients ingredients of of Hungarian Hungarian cuisinc cuisine
are are pork pork Characteristic and andgoose goosefat, fat, and and large
largequantities quantitiesof ofonion. onion. Thefogas Thefagasof ofLake LakeBalaton
Balatonis isaafamous famousvariety varietyof offish. fish.

CENTRAL CENTRAL EUROPEAN EUROPEAN AND AND BALKAN BALKAN COOKERY. COOKERY. cuIsINE
CUISINE DE DE L'BURopE L'EUROPE cENTRALE CENTRALE ET ET DEs DES BALKANS BALKANS _ -
First First in in

.China and CHINESE CHINESE COOKERy. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE CHINOISE cHrNorsn --
'China and two peoples to France,' Curnonsky said, 'are 'are the peoples the only
only two to have have created a a culsme caisitu that is is inseparably linked
linked with with good manners ners and and courtesy.' courtesy.' Since Since the
the time of the Celestial Celestial Empire, the Chinese art and an Chinese have
have considered considered their their cuisine czisine an anartand an important
important expression expression of of their their country's country's civilisation.
civilisation. Chinese Chinese cookery cookery in in restaurants restaurants abroad
abroad may may not not be be a a true true reflection reflection of of the the
original. Preparation is a painstaking business, business, with with the the cook
carefully scooping out bones and shr'edodInlg shredding fowl, fowl, meat meat and
and fish fish into into strips that can be easily m2lnI]pulatfx1 manipulated by by
chopsticks. These These existed a a long long time time before before Europe Europe
had had the the fork, and and are are made made of of bamboo, bamboo, blackwood,
blackwood, ivory, silver or plastic. silver or Most Most of of the the dishes
dishes are are common common to to the the whole whole of of China, China. with
with rice rioe as principal ingredient. as the the principal ingredient. Besides
Besides taking taking the place the place of of bread, bread, it it can can be be a
a main main course, course, an an accompaniment, accompaniment, steamed, boiled or
fried. Northern China (including Peking) steamed, boiled or fried. Northern China
(including peking) is where highly is highly seasoned seasoned dishes dishes are
are to to be be found; found; Nankin, Nankin, "''''''''!5'''''1, Shanghai, central
China prefer sweet China and and Szechuan Szechuan prefer sweet dishes. dishes.
Canton, Canton, in the the south, south, is is the the gastronomic capital capital
of of China. China. The soya bean is the basic ingredient. Soy The soya bean is the
other basic ingredient. Soy sauce sauce (cho-you) the Vietnamese Vietnamese nuoc
the reasons reasons (cho-you) like like the nuoc nam, nam, is is one one of of the
is described as 'a form of why Chinew Chinese cuisine why cuisine is described as
'a form of dietetics, dietetics. 5,000 years old'. old'. 5,000 ne st and shark 's
fin soup are based Salangane's nest sottp and shark's fm sorry are based on on
chicken stock. stock. The The classical method method of of cooking cooking is is
by by chicken steaming. Eel, Eel, goose goose and and duck duck are are cooked
cooked in in this tbis way. way. A A steaming. philosopher, Lao Lao Tesu, Tesu,
once once said: said: 'Govem 'Govern the the Empire Empire as as philosopher,
carefuUy as as you you would would cook cook a a small small fish.'The fish.' The
fruits fruits of of the the sea sea carefully much respected in in China. China.
are much are twenty-four hours hours in in advance) advance) LacEtered duck
(preparod twenty-four with pineapple, pineapple, is a a great great classical
classical dish. Chicken is prepared with is ,.,,""hr .......... n-'" or in
sweetalmonds, bamboo bamboo shoots, Chinese mushrooms almonds, or in sweetand-sour
sauce sauce (like (like pork). and-sour Only a a glass glass of ofwarm wann yellow
wine (rice wine) is drunk with Only the meal. me al. Jasmine Jasmine tea tea is
served afterwards. It has the been known there there since since the the year 2000
n.c. There are two known main of tea: green tea types of tea: green tea (tsing
tcha) which is dried in the sun, red tea tea which which is is artificially dried
and destined for export. and red It is is practically practically impossible
Im]posslb,le to imitate Chinese It cookery outside the the Far Far East, East, but
dishes dishes can can be be give'n given a 'Chinese outside a 'Chinese flavour'
using such products as rice, soya beans, spices, flavour' by using such products as
rice, soya beans, spices, or scented scented mushrooms mushrooms (sold (sold dried
dried in food ginger, black or in food that specialise specialise in in exotic
exotic foods). foods). Swallows' Swallows' nests and shops that nests and
504
Lambon onskewers skewers with bacon, tomatoes, lemon and peppers (Phot. Nicolas)
Lamb with bacon, tomatoes, lemon and pepperc (phot. Nicolas)
t" ;{
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INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY INTERNATIONAL

Dutch cookery cookery Dutch

Fruit Fruit pudding pudding (Claire) (Claire)

Soup with Soupwith meat balls ballsand rneat and vermicelli vermicelli

pancakes in packets. sharks' fins fins are are sold sold tinned, tinned, rice rice
pancakes in packets. sharks' Sauerkrautis origin. of Chinese origin. Sauerkraut is
ofChinese

DUTCH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE HOLLANDAISE HoLLANDATSE -- Dutch DUTCH

Dutch cookery is is closely closely related related to to that that of cookery of
Belgium Belgium and and north north Germany. Being a pasture lands, country of rich
pasture a country of rich lands, there Gennany. there is is an an abundance of high
quality dairy high quality produce, and dairy produce, abundance and a a feature
feature of of the large large towns towns is is the parlours (melksalons),
(melksalons), which the milk milk parlours the which also sell sell excellent
excellent sandwiches. sandwiches. Holland's Holland's rich produce duce rich dairy
dairy pro goes into into its its superb superb cheeses, cheeses, which which
represent represent one goes one of of the the country's largest largest exports.
(edammerkaas), exports. Edam country's Edam cheese cheese (edammerkaas), Purmerend
and and Alkmaar cheeses cheeses are Punnerend are spherical spherical in in shape
shape and and painted red. red. Another Another famous (goudschepainted famous
cheese cheese is is Gouda Gouda (goudschekaas), a a cream cream cheese kaas),
cheese manufactured mostly mostly in in the the south south of of is shaped shaped
like like a Holland. It is a flattened flattened cylinder cylinder with with
rounded rounded ends. Holland is Holland is a a country country equally equally
devoted devoted to to stock stock fanning farming and fishing, fishing, so and so
the Dutch table the Dutch table features features a a wide wide variety variety of
of charcuteries and charcuteries and salted salted and and smoked smoked fish.
fish. The The oysters oysters of of Zealand Zealand are of excellent quality.
excellent quality. proverb which There is 'Haring in't is a a Dutch proverb which
says: in't land, says:'Haring land, dokter aan dokter aan de 'As long de kant':
kant': 'As long as as the herring is the herring is there, there, the the stays
away.' doctor stays away.' Herring is is the the staple staple food food of of the
the Dutch Dutch people. (Herring fishing people. fishing was was transferred
transferred to to deeper deeper waters enclosure of after the enclosure In 1965
Zuyder Zee. of the Zuyder Zee.In 1965 the total catch catch amounted to ta 450
million fish.) fish.) So it is is not surprising that the the herring is is the the
centre-piece centre-piece of countless countless feasts. feasts. One One of of
these is the 'New Hollanders' is Hollanders' (first fishing of the year) celebrated
the year) celebrated in gaily decorated coastal coastal villages. The first first
barrel of herring of herring is offered to the queen. In restaurants specialising
in in French food, food, the the favourite favourite (hazepeper), , and dishes are
jugged hare (hazepeper) dishes and veal escalope escalope with sauce brnnoise,
brunolse, accompanied by potatoes and peas. Cheese and peas. Cheese with butter
butter and small salted crackers. Rice is is usually served served with is imported
in large large quantities from the fonner imported former Dutch colonies colonies .
and often appears in both savoury and sweet dishes. From Indonesia Indonesia cornes
From comes excellent coffee, coffee, tea, tea, and and high and chocolate. The love
good quality cocoa and good coffee The Dutch love and drink drink it often, from
small porcelain porcelain coffee cups. Apart from from their their own own national
national beer, Apart beer, the the Dutch Dutch drink drink French and and Rhine
Rhine wines. wines. They famous liqueur: French They have have a a famous Curaçao
(Wynand (Wynand Fockink), which is sold Curagao which is sold in in big-bellied,
narrow-necked ceramic ceramic fl flagons. narrow-necked agons.
COOKERY. cursrNE CUISINE ANcLArsts ANGLAISE - The essence ENGLISH COOKERY. essence
of of lies in in choosing ingredients of English cookery lies of the the finest
finest and texture quality and cooking them so that their flavour and are fully
[ully developed. developed. This is done with the the minimum ad~i~ion are addition
of ingredients to mask the fine natural taste taste of of the the orIgmal of
original food. food. producer of of beef, beef, mutton, mutton, lamb, England has
long long been been a a producer England pork, pheasant, pheasant, grouse, grouse,
partridge, partridge, duck, duck, salmon, salmon, so.le, pork, sole, plaice,
turbot, halibut, butter and cheese, cheese, etc., etc., of of a a quahty plaice,
quality unsurpassed anywhere anywhere else else in in the the world. world. Dishes
Dishes from from these the se unsurpassed 505 505
Leg of ofsalt-meadow mutton (Pftot. (Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas) salt-meadow mutton Leg

prime materials prime materials cooked grilling,frying by roasting,

roasting,grilling, cooked by frying or orbaking baking give food can be relied
relied on can be on to to give food which which is good to is not not only onlygood
toeat eat but but is is also also easily easily digested. digested. pies and
Puddings, Puddings, pies and tarts tarts are part of are another another important
important part of English great many English cooking. cooking. A A great many
different different recipes recipes for for baked, baked, boiled puddings using
boiled and and steamed steamed puddings using mainly flour, fat, fat, mainly flour,
eggs given in eggs and and fruit fruit are are given in any any English English
basic basic cookery cookery book.book the puddings available the variety variety of
of puddings probably greater available is isprobably greater than in than m any any
other other country country in in the the world. world. The The main main meal meal
of of the the day day usually puddings or usually includes includes one one of of
these these puddings or one one with with milk milk as as the pie or pastry the
main main ingredient, ingredient, or or it it may may be be aa pie or tart tart
having having pastry as as one one of of its its main main ingredients.
ingredients. Cakes, Cakes, scones scones and and biscuits biscuits also also
feature feature in Englishcookery, in English cookery, and and are are usually
usually eaten eaten at at the the tea tea meal meal in in the the late late
afternoon. afternoon. There There are plain, are many many varieties, varieties, a
number ofwhich a number arefairly fairly plain, of which are having proportion of
having a a smaller smaller proportion fat, sugar of fat, sugar and and eggs eggs
than than those those of of other other countries. countries. Another Another basic
basic constituent constituent of the tea tea meal meal of the is . is thinly thinly
sliced sliced brown brown or or white white bread bread and and butter. butter.
Vegetable Vegetable cookery cookery is is not not aa highly highly developed
developed ~rt art m in England. England. As As long long ago ago as as the the
eighteenth eighteenth century century f?relgners foreigners said said that that
English English cooks cooks seemed seemed incapable incapable of of turnmg turning
out out aa good good vegetable vegetable dish. dish. A A Gennan Moritz in named
Moritz German named n 1872 1872 wrote 'An English wrote of his landlady's of his
landlady's meal meal that English dinner that'An for such dinner for such lodgers
generally consists piece of as 1 I am, lodgers as of half-boiled am, generally
consists of of a a piece half-boiled or or half-roasted half-roasted meat plain
meat, and and a a few few cabbage cabbage leaves leaves boiled boild in in plain
water, pour a water, on on which which they they pour a sauce sauce made made of of
flour flour and and butter.' butter.' It It is potatoes as is usual usual for for a
a main main meal meal to include potatoes to include as one one of of the the two
two vegetables vegetables served, both of of which which are are cooked served,
both cooked by by boiling boiling . . . in plenty of in plenty water. of water.
Popular dishes justly famous dishes for for which which England England 15 is
justly famous mclude include pork pies, pies, the the best best ones ones being
being made made in Midlands; bacon in the the Midlands; bacon and and egg egg thin
smoked smoked back back rashers rashers lightly lightly fried fried and and served
servd - thin with with slices slices of of bread bread crisply crisply fried fried
and and a a lightly lightly fried fried egg egg -- a a delicious delicious dish
dish whether whether served served for for breakfast, breakfast, lunch lunch or or
supper; supper; Lancashire Lancashire hotpot potatoes and hotpot -- a a stew stew
of of meat, meat, potatoes and oni~ns onions cooked period in cooked slowly slowly
for for a a long long period in the the oven; oven; Comlsh Cornish pasties potato
and diced lamb, lamb, potato and shredded shredded ~nion onion cooked cooked in in
- diced individual cases pastry and part cases of of short short pastry and served
either hot hot as as part served elther of picnic dish. of the the main main meal
meal or or cold cold as as a a snack snack or or picnic dish. Other Other delicious
pudding, mince delicious specialities specialities are pies, are Christmas
Christmas pudding, mince pies, stew stew with with dumplings, pudding, dumplings,
Welsh Welsh rarebit, rarebit, Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding, steak (particularly
those pudding, and steak and and kidney kidney pudding, and kippers kippen
(particularly those cured cured in in wood wood smoke). smoke).

FRENCH FRENCH REGIONAL REGIONAL COOKERY. cursrNs RÉGIONALEnScroNru: COOKERY.

CUISINE Every particular cuisin~, Every French French province has has its its
particular cuisine, although although ~ll all so-called so-called regional regional
dishes dishes are not necessarily are not necessarily authentIc. authentic.
Nevertheless, there Nevertheless, great number genuine French there are are a a
great number of of genuine French regional given under regional specialities.
specialities. These These are under the the names names of are given of the the
provinces listed listed alphabetically. alphabetically. GERMAN GERMAN COOKERY.
COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE ALLEMANDE ALLEMANDE -- There There is is more more to to
this this substantial substantial cuisine caisine than than the the dishes dishes
we we are are so so
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY INTERNATIONAL
Smokeo curry. Smoked its specialities specialities being being chicken curry.
flavour, flavour, one of its goose is is eaten eaten dish; goose is a a typical
typical Pomeranian dish; breast of goose is everywhere. almost everywhere. Halbe
Hahn Hahn called Ha/be on the menu called an item on In the the Rhineland, an roll
of of wholemeal a chicken', chicken', but but a a roll does not not mean mean 'half
a does filled with Dutch cheese. bread filled country of Sauerkraut. Sauerkraut.ln
in the Charcuterie In Charcaterie is important in the country pork cutlets are pork
cutlets Hamburg, Hamburg, Gefullte Gefillte Schweinerippchen Schweinerippchen are
rum. The The pork currants, apples, apples, biscuits biscuits and and rum. stuffed
stuffed with with currants, quality to in quality to that butchers of Holstein have
ham comparable in good varieties very good varieties of of of Westphalia;
Westphalia; there there are are also also sorne some very served with with Eisbein,
which sausage. sausage. ln In Berlin, Berlin, Sauerkraut is is served pea purée.
pur6e. pork accompanied by pea is is boiled salted knuckle of pork accompanied by
pig are are In In Bremen, feasts dedicated dedicated to to the the honourable pig
Bremen, any any feasts (a sausage made of of wheaten wheaten Wurst (a bound to
Pinkel-Wursf sausage made to include Pinke/in the the smoked in flour and and diced
diced bacon), bacon), and and Oldenburg hams smoked hearth. juniper-flavoured hams
Westphalia are are hams of of Westphalia The The smoked smoked juniper-flavoured
Mtinsterland. Smoked rivalled by the excellent Smoked excellent charcuterie
charcaterie of of Münsterland. and with savory; bacon and seasoned savory; and is
served served with with beans beans and seasoned with bacon is pastry. Mettwurst
Mettwurst and there in flaky and is a a sausage sausage wrapped in flaky pastry.
there is garnished dried sausage sausage gamished sausage are Saxony; sausage are
found in Lower Saxony; is eaten with Hanover is eaten with with horseradish
horseradish and and mustard mustard in in Hanover glass of glass of with a a small
small glass of Lüttje Laage, a a glass of beer beer topped topped with Lilttje
Laage, brandy. Hessians, while Smoked a favourite dish dish of of the Hessians.
Smoked pork loin loin is a grilled puddings served the with feast upon upon grilled
served with the Rhinelanders feast pur6e and and 'Heaven and onions and christened
onions mixed mixed with potato purée christened 'Heaven pickled pork pork and
Earth'. various and various Earth'. Mainz Mainz offers offers succulent succulent
pickled types whole of Palatinate offers offers of sausages, sausages, while while
the the whole of the the Palatinate types of poivrade of Schweinepfeffer Kni)del,
which of pork a poivrade mit Knode/, which is is a Schweinepfefer mit garnished
garnished with quenelles. quenelles. Swabian generous heap is a heap of of cooked
cooked Schlachtplatte is a generous Swabian Sch/achtp/atte good as grilled sa
usages of meats. are as as as good The grilled sausages of Nuremberg Nuremberg are
meats. The those of fat, the the short and Ratisbon and former short and fat, of
Ratisbon and Coburg, Coburg, the the former latter thin rolls. Both are rich rich
Both are and served servd stuffed stuffed into into bread bread rolls. thin and
grilled in In Upper there are are grilled in herbs herbs and and spices. spices. In
Upper Bavaria. Bavaria, there pea purée; pig's tongue smoked pork; pig's pig's ear
pur6e; pig's with tongue with ear and and pea smoked pork; (grilled Franconian
onion; Franconian sausages). sausages). and Rostbratwürste Ro s tbratwilrs te
(grilled onion ; and The well known A internationally. A The Hamburger Hamburger
Steak is weil known intemationally. Steak is similar veal Holsteiner Schnitze/,
similar dish dish is is Ho/steiner Schnitzel, a a breadcrumbed breadcrumbed veal
poached egg. escalope, eEE, a topped with with a a poached a escalope, slightly
slightly browned. browned, topped grilled grilled sardine, various vegetables,
vegetables, sardine, and and surrounded surrounded by by various including in the
This is is a festive dish dish in the including cucumbers. cucumbers. This a
favourite favourite festive region. Meat balls piquant caper Pomerwith a a piquant
caper sauce sauce is is a a Pomerserved with balls served anian Pfefferpotthast,
Westphalia is is the the country country of of Pfefferpotthast. anian delicacy.
delicacy. Westphalia

German cookery: slices ofblack pudding with Germancoonkertr'rt:ff rounds of sour

apple (Claire)

;jrlt:iHl,:f "**

gastronomic map familiar map is is a The German familiar with abroad. abroad. The
German gastronomic a tends from reflection of the geographical one, which ex
extends from the the one, which North to the the Alps, ch variation, variation,
each much North Sea offers mu Alps, and and offers Sea to region offering dishes
depending upon upon its its ancestry region offering special special dishes and
climate. The soups, like French soups, are mostly the hearty type. Beginning from
the north and and working towards the the south, (eel soup) there is which,
although although it is Hamburger Aa/suppe Aalsuppe (eel soup) which, gets its name
port is, is, in fact, fact, comname from the the great German port, mon to the
whole of Schleswig-Holstein. A A typical German soup made of oats. Then is
Hafersch/eimsuppe, Haferschleimsuppe, a a consommé consommi made soup is und Poren
pea soup Porm which is a a pea Arfensuppe mit Snuten Snutenund there is Arfensuppe
flavoured with pig's pig's snout and and trotters. trotters. Another Hamburg
Hamburg speciality is garnished with veal, semolina brisket of beef garnished with
veal, is brisket quenelles and diced seasonal vegetables. and diced voured wi th a
wide variety of herbs. Bremen with flavoured Bremen eel soup is fla (Sp?itzle In
Baden there is Spiitz/e soup (Spiitz/e Spiitzle soup In Wurttemberg Wurttemberg and
and Baden there is are plain, or filled filled with liver, fresh noodle paste,
plain, are squares of fresh ham, many vegetable ham, mushrooms). mushrooms). In In
Swabia Swabia there there are are many soups: pea soup, soup, bean bean soup, soup,
lentil lentil soup, soup, pea soups: cauliflower cauliflower soup, potato soup. The
North Sea and shellshellSea and and the the Baltic provide fresh fish and fish. (or
green green Grüner Hering) are In Berlin, fresh herring herring (or Grilner Hering)
arc fish. In Berlin, fresh eaten fried, potatoes. They They fried, hot or cold,
together with jacket potatoes. are The red after they they are are fried. fried.
The are sometimes sometimes marinated marinated after herring prized. Another
Another outstanding outstanding dish dish is much prized. herring is is also also
much herring salad with gherkins and potatoes. Hamburg offers prawns. One offers
oysters, oysters, lobster, and and large large prawns. speciality is fried is a
frid oysters and Cheshire a Cheshire cheese; cheese; and and there is delicious
crayfish soup. soup. Ali All varieties of sea sea and and river fish fish are are
found here. Holstein is best known for its tench. At Emden a a veritable meal is
herring; while elsewhere along is made of the herring; elsewhere along the there is
is smoked smoked fish fish accompanied accompanied by by spirits the coast coast
there (schnapps, (schnapps, brandy, etc.). The chefs of of the the The Rhine Rhine
is is the the river river for for salmon, salmon, and and the the chefs region
preparing it. have many of preparing it. One One of of the the trout trout ways of
region have many ways recipes (Forelle in paper-wrappd trout in Papier-Hûlle).
Papier-Hfille). trout (Fore/le recipes is is paper-wrapped Moselle pike is
garnished grated Parmesan. garnished with cream Parmesan. cream and and grated
Further south, in Wurttemberg Wurttemberg and and Baden, eels eels and and salmon
salmon are served Basle-style, steamed The trout of steamed with with onions. The
of the the Black Forest are cooked water, wine wine cooked au an bleu blan in in a
a mixture mixture of water, and garnished meltod butter, and vinegar; vinegar;
those in melted butter, gamished those of Wiesent in with small potatoes. potatoes.
The fish fish of of the Danube are served served in the the same same fashion. In
there are are trout trout In the the mountain mountain lakes lakes of of Upper
Upper Bavaria there (Saiblinge) and (Renken). variety of salmon (Renken). of salmon
and a a variety The The Hamburg Hambwg Stubenkûcken spring chickens chickens as as
Stubenkfrcken are are spring popular as me city. The ducks eaten eaten in the sa
same city. The as the the caponised caponised ducks in the cuisine the ancient town
town of of Bremen Bremen has has an an international international anisine of the

Black geteaux with with cmnamon cinnamon Forest Christmas Christmas gâteaux Black
Forest
(Claire) Ghne\

506 506
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKERY
meat cut into small pieces and and boilod cloves, boiled with bay leaf, cloyes,
whole onions. and the weight of of the beef beef in on ions. The w hole is then
bound generously with pepper. A with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and seasoned
generously fine a tripe and a fine beef stew stew is is produced produced in in
Munster, and tripe dish, Soester Wamme,a of Soest, is well Wamme. a speciality
ofSoest, weil known throughout the region. In the Kassel veal and mixture of ofveal
Kassel district, the speciality is a mixture pork and eaten pork (Weckewerk)
(Weckewerk) simmered with with bread bread rolls roUs and cold. Spit roasts are a
Rhineland Rhineland delicacy. In upper Nahe, near ldar-Aberstein, Idar-Aberstein,
there is the custom of marinating beef for onions and herbs, for rwenty-four
twenty-four hours hours in in wine, wine, salt, pepper, pepper, onions before
before cooking. cooking. They use a spit spit rod or beechwood, beechwood, and
roast over wood wood charcoal. charcoal. In In Stuttgart, there there is is a a
unique unique dish called ca lied Gaisburger Gaisburger Marsch, which consists
consists of sliced potatoes, such a Spâtzle and and beef. beef. These These are are
cooked to such a degree cooked to Spdtzle degree of tenderness that they may be
eaten with a spoon. Muzzle of tenderness Nuremberg dish. Veal knuckle, boiled,
boiled, then beef salad is a Nuremberg grillod, grilled, and and accompanied by by
Knddel, Knode/, comes cornes from from around

Munich. Fresh vegetables vegetables accompany almost all ail specialities,

specialities. from Schleswig-Holstein to to Hamburg. Hamburg. In In Bremen Bremen a
Schleswig-Holstein a sign sign of autumn autumn is the appearance appearance of of
Brunten Brunten oder oder gepflilcktm gepflückten Finten, Finten, a a dish dish of
white white haricot beans. beans, french french beans. beans, carrots carrots and
potatoes. Winter is the season of red red cabbage cookod cooked with bacon, and and
ofstuffed of stuffed cabbage. In Berlin, Berlin, favourite favourite dishes are
bacon, peas peas with bacon with squares of toasted bread added; and potato
pancakes pancakes (grated raw potatoes, or potatoes bound with flour, flour, called
called Kartoffelpufer). Kartoffe/puffer). In In summer, summer, Berliners Berliners
with of Teltow, and the asparagus asparagus grown grown enjoy the small turnips of
the Brandenburg Brandenburg marshes. marshes. on the Westphalia offers a dish made
of raw potatoes blended Westphalia buckwheat flour, flour, served fried. The
vegetables vegetables grown grown with buckwheat countryside around Brunswick are
are tinned and and sold in the countryside throughout the the country; country; the
the asparagus asparagus in in particular particular is throughout excellent. The
green cabbages of Lower Saxony are served a popular popular sausage stuffed stuffed
with with brains. brains. The The Hessen with a region offers Beulsches, Beu/sches,
potato potato quenelles quenelles made with with a forceregion of leeks and savoury
pudding; and zwiebelkuchen, zwiebe/kuchen, an meat of meat onion cake. cake. onion
The staple diet diet of the the people of Wurttemberg is is boiled quenelles. There
are many varieties of these, ranging ranging flour quenelles. Spatz/e with added
liver, ham, etc., to the MaulMau/from the Spiitzle tasche, a a kind kind of highly
highly seasoned canelloni canelloni stuffd stuffed with tasche, brains, veal veal
and pork. brains, is the country of Knbdel Knode/ (potato balls). Upper Bavaria
Bavaria is Upper breadcrumbs, are varied varied by by the the addition addition of
white breadcrumbs, These are liver stuffing, stuffing, or bacon. liver There are
are also also the the small round round cumin-flavoured cumin-flavoured cheeses of
There Harz; the the Hessian Hessian Schmierkiise Schmierkase (a white white cheese
cheese blended with Harz; green sauce sauce containing con taining nine nine
varieties varietie:; of of herbs); cream cream cheese cheese greelr made of ewes'
milk, from the Palatinate, Palatinate, including that of made caUed Mainze
Handkiise; Handkase; the the cheeses cheeses of Allgiu; Allgau; Mayence called
Kraeuter (a kind kind of Roquefort); Roquefort); and and the the assorted assorted
cheesecheeseKraeuter cakes that that German German beer beer complements so so
perfectly. perfectly. The cakes salads of of Baden Baden contain Emmenthal
Emmenthal cheese, cheese, together together with salads bitter-sweet melon, red
bilberries, bilberries, and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. bitter-sweet
Pâtisseries are are excellent throughout Germany and very Pdtisseries varied. There
are the the Napfkuchen Napjkuchen of of Berlin; Streuselkuchen, Streuse/kuchen,
varied. cake made made with butter, butter, flour and and sugar; sugar; Berliner
Berliner a yeast cake Pfannkuchen (jam (jam fritters dusted with with sugar);
sugar); and and manymany Pfannkuchm varieties of of rolls, rolls, some sorne made
made with with milk. milk. In Dresden Dresden there there are varieties custard
tarts tarts speckled speckled with with raisins, raisins, Christmas Christmas
Mohnspielm Mohnspie/en custard (slices of white white bread bread steeped in milk
and and sprinkled with (slices ground poppyseeds poppyseeds and and sugar). sugar).
Ltbeck Lübeck has has its its almond almond ground pas te, Bremen Bremen its Bremer
Bremer Klabm K/aben (white (white bread dough mixed paste, with raisins raisins and
crystallised crystallised lemon). Brunswick Brunswick has has gingerwith bread made
made with with honey honey from the moors moors of Liineburg, Lüneburg, and bread
Zuckerkuchen, a sugary cake cake baked baked on on a a metal met al tray. tray.
Hanover Hanover Zuckerkuchen,asrgary
507 s07

(Liebnitz Keks), Keks), the Rhineland has the Rhineland has its has petits-beurre
(Liebnitz its has its petits-bewre (variety of Muzm (variety of fritters),
fritters), and and Cleves its almond has its Muzen Cleves has (Printen) of Aix-la-
Chapelle gdteaux (Printen) The gâteaux Aix-la-Chapelle are Speku/atius.
Spekulatius. The coated with with chocolate or or caramel; caramel; the the Black
Black Forest Forest offers coated fruit loaf called Hutzelbrot cherry tart and
bilberry cake; a a fruit called Hutze/brot people of and the Zuckerbrot Ulm are and
Zuckerbrot of Ulm are favourites of the people Wurttemberg. The Kuch/e Kuchle of
Baden are fritters fried in deep Wurttemberg. deep fat. Then Then there fat. there
are are the from the aniseed-flavoured Springer/e Springerlc from Heidelberg and
Heidelberg and the the macaroons macaroons and and chocolate-covered nougat of
Nuremberg. of Nuremberg. 'Let there be beer beer ... there be . . . And there. was
was beer.' A Bavarian beer.' A monastery attributes attributes these these words to
to Saint Gambrinus, Gambrinus, and and they are they are sufficient sufficient to
to show show the the influence of this this legendary great country figure over the
great There is a wide variety country of hops. There of German beers. They Holstein
beer, They include include Holstein beer, Berlin beer (which in summer is
fermentation wheat beer kept in is a a low fermentation stone.jugs stone.jugs and
and drunk drunk with with raspberry raspberry syrup: syrup: Weisse Weisse mit mil
(Rauchbier of Himbeer), Franconian beer (Rauchbier Himbeer), Franconian beer of
Bamberg, Back'bier Bick'bier of Bayreuth, fortified beer of of Kulmbach),
Kulmbach), Munich beer, etc. German wines are often excellent. excellent. There
There are two principal quality wines, denominations: denominations: Aus/ese,
Auslese, first-class first-class quality wines, and and Spat/ese Spiitlese wines
made from grapes that have been allowed to ripen on the vine for as long as
possible possible (see WINE).

Assortment of ltalian produce: produce: Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, Bel Assortm€nt of

ltalian Bel paese, Parma harn, ham, Asti spurnante spumante and Chianti (Maison
Bileua. Bilerta. Phot. Larousse) (Maison Larousse) ITALIENNE TTALTENNE The ltalian
Italian - The cuisine does does not not begin and and end end with pasta dishes,
caisitu dishes, risotto, fritto misto zuppa ing/ese despite its misto and and zuppa
inglese (which despite name was its name fritto certainly not invented in England).
certainly Italian cuisiru cuisine is much more than that. Besides the above Italian
(which are are all ail excellent) excellent) there there are are succulent
charcuteries (which charcuteries made in Milan and Bologna, Bologna, such as
sa/ami, as mortadella and and salarni, the famous famous Parrna ham, and (stuffed
pig's the Parma ham, and the the zampone (stuffed trotter) of of Modena. Modena.
Then there there is is Gorgonzola Gorgonzola cheese trotter) cheese (which is quite
unlike Roquefort or any is any of the other French blue cheeses) and and Parmesan
cheese cheese which wruch goes so weil with ail cheeses) so well all pas ta dishes
dishes and and which is is the the secret of the the creaminess Italian pasta
secret of creaminess of Italian Italian risotto. of Italian cuisiru cuisine is one
one of the the oldest in Europe. It is is derived Italian from Greek gounnet
gourmet traditions, these these being derived in their tum from Oriental cuisine.
these turn caisine. Throughout the centuries these became firmly established
established in Italy. They culinary traditions became gradually attained perfection
perfection in the the country had adopted gradually country that had Choose any
ordinary 1 talian dish and it is the replica them. Choose Italian of one one that
that was was once once enjoyed enjoyed by by gourmands reclining reclining on of on
their triclinia in Ancient Rome. triclinia ltalian polenta polenta is is the same
same as as the pulse that the Romans Italian

COOKERY. CUISINE ITALIAN COOKERY. custNE

INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY
prepared en route when they set out to conquer the prepareden tbe world. They
toasted grains grains of wheat, crushod crushed them, tbem, and and made a gruel
from the result. The only difference is that polenta is maizn flour, not made from
coarse coarse maize not wheaten wheaten flour. now made identical Contemporary
Italian dessert wines are almost identical to those those the Romans made. made.
They left them to thicken in the of their their villas villas then then drank therr
them diluted diluted with snow. snow. attics of

ltalian cuisirp cuisine can can be be considerod considered the the 'mother'
'mother' of of all ail Italian

s. European Latin Latin cuisine cuisines. European Catherine de de Medicis took

Italian ltalian pastry-makers, cooks Catherine craftsmen and ice cream makers with
her to France. These craftsmen imparted the secrets secrets of of their their
delicate delicate pastries pastries (especially (especially their imparted frolla),
luscious creams creams and and flavoured flavoured ices ices to to their pasta
frolla), French counterparts. counterparts. Italian ltalian culinary methods were
were thus French into France, France, and there is a restaurant restaurant and
there is hardly a introduced into menu in that country today that does not include
disbes dishes of ltalian origin. In Paris, and in most of the large towns, are
Italian tbese the best in town) that tbat offer some of these restaurants (and
sorne appropriate solely ltalian dishes, by the tbe appropria te accompanied by
dishes, accompanied solely Italian Italian wines. wines. Wines Wines such as
Valpolicella from from Verona, such as Italian and Frascati Bardolino from Garda,
Chianti from Tuscany and Romani and and Orvieto Orvieto the the white white wines
from Castelli wines from Castelli Romani and moscati spumanti spurnantiftom from
Piedmont has red and white moscati Umbria. Piedmont Emilian wine, Asti (Barbera
(Barbera and and Freisa) the famous Emilian Freisa) and and the Asti wine-producing
Lambrusco. ltaly is is the second largest largest wine-producing the second
Lambrusco. Italy splrit, grappa, country of Europe. There is also a traditional
spirit, country of (witch). Anotber Another and a herb-flavoured liqueur called
strega (witch). a herb-flavoured liqueur, Adriatic coast, is maraschino. liqueur,
from the Adriatic

quality. ltalian Italian ltalian food produce produce is is of of excellent

excellent quality. Italian food charcuteries everywhere. The pork butchers are are
known everywhere. charcateries are ttre skin of of a boned culinary mortadelle
where the makirgmortadelle culinary artists, making the slightest apparent piglet
is without there being the is stuffed stuffed without trace of an incision. trace
an incision. flesh alhas delicate, tender flesh The delicate, tender poultry of
Piedmont has The poultry of Piedmont The young yellow for though it is for sorne
some tastes. The is rather rather too too yellow though pigeons, are province, no
guinea no bigger bigger than than pigeons, guinea fowl fowl of of the the province,
Italian pasta delicious, the butter of Piedmont is excellent, excellent, ltalian
Piedmont is which with which good, and marze flour flour with coarse maize is and
the the coarse is extremely good, Italian olive here than than anywhere. anywhere.
ltalian polenta is is better better here is made made is Italian and ltalian oil
oil of Provence, Provence, and to the the olive oil oil is is comparable to most
other of most tomatoes the tomatoes tomatoes of sweeter than than the are sweeter
tomatoes are (apart from may not from pork) may European countries. The The meat
meat (apart meat of sorne some the meat quite flavour of the and flavour quite
match the delicacy and match the other European countries, but it is is still quite
good. Pasta asciutta, the general name for various types of pasta, asciutta,the
should be served before before the main course. For Italian wines see WINE.

Another national national dish is sukiyaki, sukiyaki, which wbich means 'roasted on
the spit'. This has a history. In fonner former times roast beef beef was
prohibited by the Buddhist Buddhist monks who forbade the domestic eating of animal
meat. Such edicts were regarded regarded lightly lightly in rural rural areas,
areas, and and the the peasants peasants used used to to get get over over them
them by building a fire between roasting between two stones in the fields and
roasting the mutton and pork over it there. Sukiyaki dates from this guest prepares
time. time. Each Each guest prepares the the dish dish according according to to
his his taste available: thin slices of meat, raw using the foods that are are
available: egg, etc. diced vegetables, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, raw egg, The
following are among the most popular fish dishes in Japan: eel fillets (unagi).
This is prepared in a Kabayaki. Grilld Grilled eel gorged with The ee\ is gorged
with beer beer or very special way Japan. The eel is very special way in in Japan.
lengthwise with in half lengtbwise spirits, bled, then immediately spirits,
immediately split in deboned. This a chopper chopper and and completely completely
deboned. one one blow blow from from a grilld over a It is is first steamed, then
much skill. skill. It requires much first steamed, then grilled sprinkled with
sauce. wood fire and served sprinkled (a species of tuna). When the Katsus-buski.
Dried bonito (a Katsus-buski. process a piece of of is completed the fish becomes
like a drnng pro drying cess is powder is as it it is is required. Bonito powder
wood. It It is is then wood. then grated as added to certain certain soups with the
dual dual purpose of seasoning added used in the,rn and and making them more
nutritious. It is widely used them Japan. rice containing A bowl bowl of cooked
rice Maguro-no-suhki. of cooked Maguro-no-suhki. A powderod egg wrapped in a other
raw tuna (or otber a thin slice of raw powdered substance). substance). sauce made
made of a sauce Musi-yaki. Fish Fish cooked in in the oven in in a the oven and
sprinkled sprinkled afterwards with flour; or cooked dry and potato flour; the same
sauce. garnished with seaweed. seaweed. Nosi-maki. A bowl of rice garnished This
dish dish is raw fish fish and and vegetables. This Nuta. A mixture of raw Nuta.
horseradistt, mus mustard and other with horseradish, strongly seasoned seasoned
with strongly tard and condiments. hot rice tea, water, water, beer beer and and
bot rice wine The Japanese Japanese drink drink tea, The a meal. before a
RUs$ ET Er cursINE RUSSE COOKERY. CUISINE RUSSIAN AND POLISH POLISH COOKERY.
RUSSIAN poLoNAIsE - Russian cuisine is contrasting is composed of two contrasting
composed of POLONAISE

JAPANESE COOKERY. ctnsINE JAPONAISE rApoNAIsE Japan is is an COOKERY. CUlSINE -

Japan populated islands in lacking in agglomeration densely populated islands
lacking of densely agglomeration of people live pigs. The fish and and cattle, The
people live mainly mainly on on fish sheep or or pigs. cattle, sheep and various
sea supplementing their their diet diet with rice and sea products, supplementing
other plants and vegetables. why fish fish form form the The explains why The
abundance abundance of of sea-food sea-food explains people are cooks, and and
basis are skilful cooks, Japanese cuisine. The people basis of Japanese have food
of of marine origin. origin. ways of of serving serving food have devised devised
many many ways found in in fish and shellfish found They and shellfish They use not
not only only all all tbe the types of fish their many other other marine edible
seaweed, seaweed, and and many seas, but but also also edible their seas, in their
their products unknown in they eat eat both both in in the the West, which they
preserved states. fresh Tinned sea ssa urcbins, ulshins, crabs, crabs, states.
Tinned fresh and and preserved mussels, quenelles, etc., Japan. are widely
available available in Japan. etc., are fish quenelles, mussels, fish is very Dried
call sashimi, sashimi, is fish, which which the the Japanese Japanese call Drid
fish, sea bream bream popular. popular. They solid-fleshed fish fistt such such as
as sea They also also eat eat solid-fleshed (hirarne\ (maguro), carp (koi-no-arai),
turbot (tai), tuna (tai), turbot (hirame) carp (koi-no-arai), tuna (maguro),
(saba), usually and, with mackerel (saba), usually seasoned seasoned with and, less
less frequently, frequently, mackerel soy soy sauce. sauce. Raw is easily
digestible and and Raw fisb fish seasoned seasoned with with soy soy sauce sauce is
easily digestible (in the opinion gourmets) a (in most delicate delicate dish.
dish. a most opinion of of Nipponese gourmets)
508 508
gastronomic influences: ConEuropean. Conand west west European. Asian and
influences: Asian gastronomic and not a blend blend of these, and temporary Russian
cuisine, then, is a temporary great French have imagined it it since since the the
French chefs chefs have at ail all as as the the great at eighteenth century.
eighteenth Minagier russe, russe, le Ménagier A rare rare book the sixteenth
sixteenth century, century le book of the A occasions Russian cuisine cuisitu of
that that time. Festive occasions the Russian describes the flowed with every every
meal. There There was frequent" and and drink drink flowed were frequent, (hot and
hydromel, beer, and cold), cold), hydromel, Italian wine wine (bot Greek and and
Italian Greek liqueurs. But, kvas, brandy, brandy, cherry and and raspberry
liqueurs. sparkling kvas, sparkling Iz Ménagier, these wines wines and and to the
advice of Le Minagier, these according to the ad according vice of

smoked salmon salmon vodka, caviare, Russian specialities: caviare, eel eel and and
smoked spocialities: vodka, Russian (Nicolas\ (Nicolas)
COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONAL
spirits spirits were not to be offerod offered too liberally Iiberally - 'There
should be no disputes disputes and certainly certainly no knock-out blows.' Other
picturesque details of Russian anisitu cuisine are supplied

by by the the descriptions descriptions of of the the traditional, traditional,

quasi-ritual meal

(similar to that offered on Christmas Eve in Europe) eaten on the return from
midnight mass between between Holy Saturday and Easter Easter Sunday. Sunday. The
Easter meal is a mixed cold table, with savoury and sweet sweet dishes, dishes,
pastries, and and desserts laid laid out out together. together. All these dishes
remain on the table during the whole of Easter Easter Sunday and Easter Monday;
empty ones being replaced replaced by full ones as the food is consumed. consumed.
The The composition composition of of the Easter Easter meal is traditional.
traditional. Certain Certain dishes, such as as roast lamb and sucking pig, must
always be included, included, and and one or more lambs made of butter must must be
prepared. This is done done in the following way: A reclining reclining lamb is
modelled from a block block of of fresh butter. butter. Its wool is fashioned by
placrng placing a piece of canvas on some sorne butter and and attaching it to the
the modelled lamb's body. body. The head head is carefully sculpted. The horns may
be covered covered with gold go Id or silver foil, and pepperconr peppercorns or
grape seeds serve as eyes. eyes. The lamb is then placed on a mount ssnsisling
consisting of a piece of of wood placed on a bottle. bottle. The wood is covered
covered with damp hemp on which grass, oats or lentils lent ils have been sown sown
and germinated to glve give an attractive attractive surround. surround. An
orthodox Russian a roast Russian Easter Easter meal consists consists of ofa roast
lamb lamb and sucking pig, a cold ham, a turkey or piece of of feathered feathered
game, also roasted, veal, variously roasted, roast roast leg leg of ofveal,
variously coloured eggs, a pasklw paskha of of white white cheese cheese (pyramid
of of pressed white white cheese), cheese), one or more Easter Easter gAteaux
gâteaux (koulitch), one or several babas babas (cylindrical cake made of leavened
dough which can be as much much as as I 1 m. m. (39 (39 inches) high and and 40 40
cm. cm. (16 (16 inches) in diameter), diameter), plates of Polish pastries
Qtlietzki), (p/ietzki), and and several several salt salt cellars cellars of of
salt salt which which has has been blessed. blessed. A large large number number of
non-ritual non-ritual dishes also also appear appear on on the Easter Easter table.
These, like the dishes above, above, are constantly constantly replenished
replenished throughout the night. night. Apart Apart from this this Easter fare
there are Russian zakouskis, zakouskis, closely and smorgasbord of closely relatod
related to to the the smiirrebrod smorrebrod and Scandinavia.The Scandinavia. The
zakouskis zakouskis arc are arranged on immense immense buffet buffet tables, pride
of place being given to caviare. Today, as in former former times, times, the the
sumptuousness sumptuousness of of the the display display of of zakouskis zakouskis
is an indication indication both of of the the social status status of of the host
and the prestige prestige of of the guest. Vodka Vodka accompanies accompanies the
the meal. meal. Russian Russian hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre (hot (hot and and cold)
are many and varied. The following following are some sorne of of the the hot hors-
d'euvre hors-d'œuvre (most of which which are are found found under under HORS-
D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot horshorsd'euvre): d'œuvre): Variously Variously
garnished barErettes, barquettes, beunecks beurrecks d à la turque, blinis,
ciernikis, ciernikis, kromeskies d à h la polonaise polonaise or d à la
russe, russe, cheese cheese crofrtes, croûtes, anchovy anchovy dartois, herrings
herrings d à I'estonienne, l'estonienne, nalesnikis, Siberian pel'meni pel'meni
(see (see PEL'MENI), PEL'MENI), Caucasian Caucasian pirozhki and and other other
varieties varieties (see (see PIROGHI), PIROGHI), rastegats, rastegaïs,

Scandinavian : marinated Scandinavian specialities specialities: marina tOO

mackerel, (.lVicolas) cod à la scandinave scandinave (Nicolas) cod liver liver d
calves' calves' kidney soup, soup, iced ockrochka fish fish soup, soup, etc. iced
ockrochka The Russians Russians make excellent pies. The best-known best-known is
the coulibiac, which goes go es back as far as the sixteenth or sevenseventeenth
century. It used to be filled with cabbage, cabbage, but nowadays it is usually
usually contains con tains salmon or other fish. Other pies include: include:
Polish Polish pie, pie, Vesiga Vesiga patties, pa tlies , burbot burbot liver Iiver
patties, Smolmsk Smolensk pies, pies, Troitski patties, pat lies , sour cabbage
pattics, pattips, Caucasiot casian pies, pies, Saracm Saracen pies, Russianfish
tourte, tourte, small small croustades of of fish, fish, and and the the numerous
nurnerous pastry pastry items items included included in in the hors-d'euvres hors-
d'œuvres list.

Vodka Vodka (46" (46 alcohol) made made from from fermented fermented wheat, wheat,
or occasionally occasionally from from maize maize or or potatoes, potatoes, is is
odourless odourless and colourless and should traditionally traditionally be drunk
in one gulp. It helps helps digest digest the the predominantly fatty fatty food.
food. Russian Russian tea (black (black tea tea from from China) is is drunk all
ail day day from from the the eversimmering simmering samovar. Some Sorne wine is
produced, mainly in the Caucasus. Caucasus.
0

cabbage sausselis, Lithuaniot cabbage sausselis, Lithuanian varenikis, varenikis,

game game tartlets, tartlets, visnisekis, visnisekis, etc. Cold hors-d'euvre and,
hors-d'œuvre include include a great variety of of canapis canapés and barquettes,
barquettes, agourois, various various types of cavinre, caviare, herrings d à la
Iivonienne, Iivonienne, rolls rolls d à ln la varsovienne, etc. A distinguishing
feature of Russian cuisine is the the use of smetara smetana (whey) (whey) and and
beetroot, beetroot, which which forms forms the the base base of bortsch, bortsch,
without without which which no no Russian Russian meal meal would would be be
complete. Russian Russian soups, soups, like those those of of Poland, Poland, are
very nourishing, nourishing, for meats. for besides besides vegetables vegetables
they they contain conta in a a variety variety of ofmeats. The following following
are the the soupo soups most commonly served served in Russia Russia and and
Poland: Poland : Polish Polish Dorrsch, bortsch, stschi stschi d à la la russe,
russe, cucumber cucumber rossolnick, oukha de sterlet, meschanski meschanski soup,
soup, nettle soup, soup, rossolnick, oukha (served iced). iced). Polish Po/ish
kolodnik, kolodnik, Livonian soup, soup, botwrnra botwinia (served Livonian
kliotskis soup, soup, crearn cream of of hant ham soup, soup, gctne game okrocl*a,
okrochka, morel morel kliotskis soup, Finnish soup, soup, kalstchale kalstchale (a
(a machdoine macédoine of of glac6 glacé fruits), soup,
509 509

SCANDINAVIAN COOKERY. COOKERY. crrrsrNg CUISINE scA,NprN.c,vE SCANDINAVE - In

SCANDINAVIAN the Scandinavian Scandinavian countries countries of Sweden, Norway
and and Denthe mark mark almost almost everything everything on on the restaurant
restaurant menus is is d àh la carte. carte. These These countries countries have
have a a buffet buffet table in in the the dining-room, called ca lied smiirgdsbord
smorgdsbord which which is is covered covered with with all ail kinds kinds of
meats, fish, fish, cheeses and and spirits. spirits. One can help oneself cold
meats, constitutes the meal proper. proper. These These before the meal unless it
constitutes hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre consist consist principally principally of of
preservod preserved fish fish (smoked or tinned), anchovies, mackerel, brisling,
etc., and are accompanied by a wide wide range range of of seasonings. There There
is, for example, example, gafel-biter, gaffel-biter, oyster sauce or anchovy sauce
sauce made made with white white wine. Other Other parts parts of the the
stndrgdsbord smorgdsbord include inc1ude salt salt beef, wine. of pork or or mutton
(rullepdlse),various (rullepolse), various items items of rolled breast breast of
rolled charcuterie such such as as Danish Danish saucisson, saucisson, which which
resembles resembles charcuterie Italian salami salami but but is fattier fattier
and more savoury. There There are also Italian various salads of of which which the
the most original is sill-salade, sill-salade, made made various of cooked
beetroot, beetroot, anchovies, anchovies, herrinp herrings and and salted salted
gherkins. of pork with National dishes dishes include include leg leg of ofpork
with caramelised caramelised apples apples, National , of hon ham with fresh
apples, prunes prunes and red cabbage; cabbage; knuckle of fresh turnp cabbage;
brisket brisket of of beef beef with horse-radish; veal stew stew turnip The famous
pytt-i-panna pytt-i-panna is is composed of with dill sauce. sauce. The with diced
beef, beef, ham ham and and apples topped topped with a a poached egg. diced Even
more original is roast roast reindeer (rensdyrstq (rensdyrsteg in NorEven
radjurstek in Swedish) served with a cream sauce sauce wegian, radjurstek (gjetost)
and and accompanied by by seasoned with goat's cheese (gietbst) bilberry jam. jam.
Thur Then there there is is the snow hen, hen, a speciality speciality of bilberry
Scandinavia. Wheat Wheat, rye rye and and barley barley bread bread are are served
served with with the Scandinavia. meal. meal. of how how to to make make a good
Every housewife knows the secret of Every sandwich - there there are are as as many
many as as fifty-nine varieties. sandwich-
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKERY
Scandinavian beers are world-famous, world-famous, especially Danish ScandinavÎan
beer. Then there is Îs the the well-known akvavit, akvavit, a a light fragrant aids
the digestion and is drunk at the end of the spirit that aids and is meal,
Calvados. meal, like the ~ ,"-, """UV".
There is an old cuIsrNE ESPAGNOLEEspAcNoLE- There SPANISH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE
'All you find to eat in a Spanish saying, 'Ali a Spanish inn is what Spanish you
bring tourism has bring with you.' Fortunately, the advent of tourism changed all
aH this. nortb Dishes vary from the south (rice and pork), to the north (beef and
central provinces (beef and potatoes) while while the poor poor central peas. Fish
and shellfish and shelll1sh generally eat lean mutton and chick peas. fried in oil.
all along the coast, and are usually are caught aH usuaHy fried known than There is
better knowo any of the the others: is one one dish dish better than any ol/a
(q.v.) which which is forerunner of the olla podrida (q.v.) is possibly the the
forerunner grande ouille that used to be made in south-west France France and
combines the ftavours flavours of of meats and vegetables. is a soup that combines
(q.v.) Another good Spanish Spanish soup is Another is puchero puchero (q. v.)
which is often a olla podrida. substitute for oUa is a dish that may include
include pork, chicken, Paella is a hearty dish Paella shellfish, frogs, snails and
a large number duck, 5sh, shellfish, dlck, chorizos, fish, are made in of
vegetables, pulses pulses and cereals. paellas are cereals. Simpler Simplerpaellas
of the home. marinated are marinatedfish, marinatedfish, marinaled Other special
Spanish dishes are game, chicken Yalencia, baca!oo bacalaa à d la Ia bisca[enne
biscalenne (cod served with tomatoes, on hard-boiled eggs), ions, green peppers and
hard-boiled onions, veal which, roast veal veaJ Spanish-style (topside of veal
monterÎa, monteria, roast origano, before roasted, is marinated with red peppers,
origano, before being roasted, garlic, white wine and the juice of bitter oranges),
ham and garbanzos (see GARBANZOS), eggs, chorizos chorizos with garbanzos
GARBANZOS), etc. eggs, you will volume you In the course find a In course of this
this volume will find a great many recipes of Spanish Spanish origin. sell churros
(hot fritters), In the streets of Spain, vendors sell paste). Water melon" and and
touron (a almond paste). water (a kind kind of almond water melon, Manzanilla.
melon is offered offered with a glass of Manzanilla. wine-producing country in
Europe. The Spain is the third wine-producing wines are: are: Jerez, Jere,z,
Manzanilla, Malaga, Moscatel, principal wines Valdepanas, etc. (See WINE.)
Valdepanas,

SWISS COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE SUISSE sussE Swiss hotels, catering SWISS -
SwÎss for a large tourist industry, have an an international cuisine. caisine. Home
cooking in in private small local local resHome private households, small taurants
and country inns inns is surprisingly good and has has a taurants and is
surprisingly good and local character. Tbere There is no lack lack of produce for
is no distinctive local cooking good cooking and butter, excellent - abundant milk,
cream and poultry and game, sUlX:ulent and game, quality meat, poultry fruit and
and vegesucculent fruit tables. Excellent transport facilities ensure transport
facilities tbat a a wide tables. Excellent ensure that products from from an all
over over Europe Europe and and from from other variety of products other
continents are available on the market market. . Swiss charcuterie highly developed
charcuterie is a highly developed art and deserves deserves ils its excellent
reputation. reputation. Although it is easy nowadays to enjoy perfectly fresh
seaproducts, Swiss gourmets prefer the rich fish and other sea products, place goes
to and varied local river and lake fauna. Pride ofplace thefario, a red-spotted
trout with delicate flesh that lives lives in the fario, a the streams and and is
is far superior to the mountain streams far superior to the tbe rainbow
artificially bred for table use. trout artificially The cbar char cornes comes a a
close close second second to to the The tbe trout for flavour, fiavour, while the
burbot with its delectable liver is fairly while fairly abundant abundant in
Switzerland. Switzerland. All western aod and central European varieties in the
Swiss lakes and rivers. Sorne of fish are found in tbe Some species, example is
found only in the Swiss lakes. lakes. One example however, are found thefira of of
Lake Geneva, a delicious salmonid that can reach tbeféra size. The same fish is
found in Lakes Lakes Zurich and a very large size. is called called/ellschen.
Constance, where it is fellschen. Lake Neuchatel has bondelles; and in the tiny
lake of Zoug, a species of small, its bondelles; rosy-fleshed trout called zuger
rothli rdthli is fished in springtime. rosy-fieshed served with a cream cream sauce
flavoured fiavoured with aromatic These are served herbs.

Another great delicacy is Îs fried baby perch caught in Lake down with a bottle of
D6zaley, Leman, and eaten, washed down on the shores of the lake itself. is a a
basic Cheese 1S basic ingredient ingredient of Swiss cuisine. To the unCheese
pleasantly __ ~~... _. initiated there are initiated there are only only two two
types: types: Gruyère, Gruyire, a a ,... (minimum 45 per cent piquant, fatty cheese
(minimum 45 per cent fat), and piquant, fatty cheese Emmenthal, fatty fatty and and
sticky sticky with vacuoles, a a rarer rarer Emmenthal, with large vacuoles, cheese
with with a a less To the pronounced ftavour. the initiated, cheese less pronounced
flavour. To variations of quality in in these two however, there are infinite
variations cheeses depending on their provenance and age. mountains there is a a
special In the Vaud part of the Jura mountains delicate flavour. flavour. cheese
called Vacherin, creamy with with a a delicate cbeese called Vacherin, creamy
produced in Another special special cheese, cheese, Schabzieger, Schabzieger, is is
produced Another in the canton of Glarus. This cheese is very close-textured
because process. The a double double coagulation coagulation process. whey
undergoes the whey the undergoes a Berne section of the the Jura mountains
possesses section of Jura mountains a cheese Berne possesses a (monk's head). This
is a c1oseT€te de moine (monk's closespeciality called Tête grained, tender cheese.
Although Reblochons and Tommes Reblocbons and are manufactured on the borders of Sa
Savoy, are eaten are manufactured on voy, they are give first mainly in in Geneva,
Geneva, where gourmets give mainly I1rst prize to to the distinctive Tomme au marc,
coated coated with vintage marc. distinctive Pdtisserie has always been a a
speciality of the Swiss, and Pâtisserie a world-wide reputation for quality. Swiss
chocolates enjoy a are ail all imported, since Switzerland does The raw raw
materials materials are produce cocoa quantity of a sufficient sufficient quantity
of sugar. sugar. The not cocoa or not produce or a passed limiting the industry
came its own own after a a law law passed came into into its duty payable on sugar
and other foreign produce. some highly regarded regarded white and Swiss vineyards
produce sorne red which consistently improve improve in red wines, both both of
which in quality quahty WINE). (see WINE). customs vary from from region to region.
Gastronomic customs region to region. In French-speaking Switzerland, customs are
more or less the with a a tendency to France, though to make make the same as as in
Fr.ince, same though with of the day the the midday main meal of midday meal, as
they do in Germanmost families the evening meal speaking Switzerland. For most the
evening consists of a a cup of white white coffee and potatoes browned in consists
(rbsti), which the Béarnaise B6arnaise housewives housewives do well. butter
(rosli), weil. devised for are many especially those There are many specialities,
espedally those devised have also adopted occasions like carnival. carnival. Swiss
cooks cooks have festive occasions from France, France, specialities from from
Savoy Savoy and classic dishes dishes from classic Franche-Comt6, dishes dishes
from southern Germany, Germany, and Franche-Comté, from southern ltaly. and fried
fried dishes from northern Italy. pastas, risottos and In Geneva which is a Geneva
there there is a pot-au-feu is soupe aux fidis fidés which In very fine vermicelli;
and and longeole, soup garnished soup garnished with with very fine vermicelli;
which the Genevese Genevese go to the mountain mountain inns to eat. This is a
wbich kind fresh moist moist sausage based of fresh based on on fat fat pork rinds,
rinds. kind of coriander and fennel fennel and and served poached, seasoned with
with coriander Then there are atriaux, atriauxo by boiled potatoes. Then
accompanied by there are which flat pigs' liver whicb are liver sausages, served
are highly seasoned, fiat fried. A wide are served including fried. A wide variety
of cheese dishes are (a thick cheese steaks souffi6 fritters, steaks (a thick slice
slice of soufflé fritters, ramekins, cheese Gruyere egg and breadcrumbs and and
fried Gruyère dipped in white of egg (slices of in cheese croûtes cro0tes (slices
of stale stale bread in c1arified butter), cheese clarified butter), sprinkled witb
with soaked in in white wine or roiLk, milk, sometimes sometimes sprinkled soaked
wine or onion rings, covered covered with with a a sliee slice of cheese cheese and
and baked onion rings, baked or fried). One of the best-known best-known dishes in
cheese/ondue for which there are many recipes. Here is is Brillat-Savarin's. 'The
there are recipes. Here glazed earthenware caskitchen in in a a glazed fondue
begins begins in the the kitcben fon&re (caquelon they pan (caquelon serole or
cast-iron cast-iron enamelled serole enamelled pan they cali call it in
Switzerland) which is French-speaking Switzerland) is rubbed with a clove garlic.
The cheese is finely grated, al10wing of garlic. 200 g. allowing 150 to 2N (5 to
good, full-flavoured Gruyère of good, Gruydre per person. oz.) of to 7 oz.) Enough
local wine is is added to cover. Correct Correct the seasoning and add add a with
salt if necessary, and a grinding of pepper (a little grated nutmeg does not not
harm, bann, either). While the fondue is being prepared, the guests cut their bread
into srnall small pieces. is brought in on on a a spirit spirit heater. heater. At
At the last The fondue fondue is brought in 5t0 510
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKERY
moment moment a small small glass glass of of pure fruit fruit kirsch is added.
Everyone eats eats from the the same same dish, dipping dipping their forkful of
bread right to the that the fondue does not stick to the the bottom bottom to
ensure that pan while halfway through while cooking. No wine is drunk, but halfway
the offered.' The The experts is offered.' the meal, meal, a a small glass glass of
kirsch is experts disapprove of short short cuts, cuts, such as thickening the
mixture mixture with disapprove of cornflour, or making making it more frothy by
adding bicarbonate. bicarbonate. cornfiour, or However, However, when when one is
not not very very sure of of success, it is advisable advisable to to add add a
little little cornflour cornfiour with the wine before heating, rather than
gwua:nte1es perfect binding when than spoil the the fondue. This This guarantees
the the mixture is is brought brought to the boil. Thin it with hot white wine if
if evaporation evaporation causes causes it to thicken too much. In the the canton
of Vaud, Vaud, we we find find excellent charcuterie. charcuterie. Payerne sausages
sa usages are are not not unlike unlike those those of Morteau Morteau but fattier,
more more moist moist and more highly highly seasoned. Cabbage and liver liver
stuffed stuffed sausages sausages have a a pronounced pronounced smoky smoky
flavour, and and are are eaten eaten Vaudois-style, Vaudois-style, garnished
garnished with leeks and with leeks potatoes. potatoes. Tongue marinated marinated
d à la vaudois is delicious and a a Paris today. Vevay bricelets (variety of well-
known dish in Paris well-known wafer) are are exported all ail over the world.
wafer) Fribourg is renowned renowned for for its its salted salted and and smoked
smoked beef. Fribourg The fondue Smoked cows' cows' udders are considered
considered a delicacy. Thefondue Smoked of this this canton canton is is made made
with with Vacherin Vacherin cheese. cheese. of Nplll'lh<i I~e.l., ~ .• _ ... _ is
is made made of equal proportions of Gruydre Neuchitel/ondue and Emmenthal. Fried
Fried bondelles are accompanied by and A uvernier wine. Auvernier In Valais,
Valais, the the shepherds shepherds prefer prefer raclette to to fondae. fondue. A
piece In of Valaisian Valaisian cheese cheese is is stuck on a fork and held over
the fire. of of the the cheese cheese softens softens and begins to bubble, it As
the the surface surface of As is scraped scraped with with a a knife knife onto
onto a a heated heated plate. This is is eaten with is by the altiboiled potatoes
potatoes and and with with an an appetite appetite sharpened sharpened by boiled or
two two of offendant, what could be be better! better! tude and and a a glass glass
or tude fendant, what cochonnailles (cooked (cooked meats); the Berne also also
produces produces cochonnailles Berne pork shoulder are saveloy, ham, ham, smoked
smoked bacon, bacon, smoked pork saveloy, of cabbages cabbages and and sauerkraut
renowned, and and with with the the addition addition of renowned, form a a rich
rich stew stew called called bernerplatte. bernerplatte. A A good good classical
classical form sauerkraut is is also also made made in in Berne. Berne. sauerkraut
Basle is is principally a a town town of pastry-makers, and and the Basle leckerlis
of Basle, with their their hard, hard, brittle, full-flavoured base base Ieckerlis
is a wide wide variety of of home-made home-made are well weil known. known. There
There is are number at at carnival carnival time. time. pastries, and and these
these increase increase in in number pastries, The culinary art art of Zvich Zurich
has has borrowed borrowed much from The other side side of of the the Rhine. Rhine.
There There is is leberknbdel leberknodel countries on on the other countries
(calf's liver liver quenelles), quenelles), knbpli knopli (a (a pastry pastry made
made of of flour, milk (calf's and eggs eggs cut cut into into small small pieces
pieces and and poached poached in in boiling boiJing water, and spoetzle of of
Baden). Baden). Dampfnildeln Dampfnüdeln (steamed (steamed pastry pastry like the
the spoetzle like come from from Wurttemberg. Wurttemberg. Roast Roast sausages
sausages are are typical typical balls) come of a a mixture mixture of of finely
minced minced pork and and made of Zurich fare, made local dish dish is is
leberspiessli, leberspiessli, which are are brochettes brochettes veal. Another
local \"~'''''''''''' '''i of ofcubes cubes of ofcalf's calf's liver liver and and
bacon bacon interspersed interspersed with with (skewers) is cooked cooked in in
clarified claritied butter butter and and served served This is leaves of sage.
This with creamd kohlrabi, kohlrabi, small small white white turnip turnip cabbages
(not to to with rutabaga, which which is is a a swede swede turnip). Zuich Zurich
be confused confused with with rutabaga, be leckerlis have have a a marzipan base
base and and bear bear no no resemblance to to leckerlis of Basle. Basle.
Trichterkilchfi are are home-made home-made pastries pastries made made those of
those choux pastry pastry mixture. mixture. This This is is placed placed in in a a
funnel funnel with a a thin thin choux with hot fat, fat, where where it it forms
forms unexpected unexpected and left !eft to to flow fiow into into hot and amusing
shapes. shapes. They They are are a a carnival carnival speciality. Millet Millet
amusing (hirsenbrei) was was once once a a traditional traditional dish. At At the
the porridge (hirsenbrei) porridge time of of their their alliance alliance with
with Strasbourg, Strasbourg, the the delegates delegates of of time Zurich paid
paid an an official official visit visit to to their their allies, allies, bearing
bearing an an Zunch immense cauldron cauldron of of this this porridge porridge
which which was was still still hot hot on on immense their arrival, arrivai, and
and symbolised symbolised how how promptly they they would would their ifcalled
called upon. It It is is rarely served now. aid if bring aid canton of of Glarus
manufactures schabzieger, which The canton forms the the basis basis of of various
various food food products. products. Birnbrol is is a a forms rather heavy
heavypdtisserie pâtisserie made made of ofbread dough mixed mixed with with figs,
figs, rather bread dough ft forms forms a a pears softened softened in in rd red
wine, wine, almonds almonds and and walnuts. walnuts. It pears
511 5ll

loaf and is dense loaf is served served very very thinly sliced. sliced.
gastronomicfzsres Saint-Gall no no longer enjoys fastes of Saint-Gall enjoys the
gastronomic of its its famous abbey, abbey, but retains sorne still retains but
still charcuterie, some delicious delicious charcuterie, such as schiblig schiblig
(a kind of of dried saveloy) saveloy) and and darre diirre landjaeger landjaeger
(steam-dried and and known known as gendarmes suisses). sudsses). In the canton of
Girsons is bindenfleisch bindenfleiscft (beef, mutton or mutton or goat's flesh
flesh dried out-of-doors). out-of-doors). This This can can only be be done done in
in the the upper upper valleys valleys where pure. The where the the air air is is
dry dry and and pure. The meat meat becomes as as hard as as leather and is is
eaten raw, in in "''<'VIl''''''. shavings. eaten raw, Tessin Tessin cuisine has has
a a distinctly ltalian Italian flavour, flavour, and is, in fact, fact, only
distinguishable distinguishable from from that that of of Lombardy Lombardy by a
greater refinement in preparation. The in its its preparation. The ravioli ravioli
of of this canton are very large. In the Swiss Alps, apart from from the the bread,
bread, Hour flour and and coffee coffee that reach that reach them them from the
the valley, valley, the the shepherds have have to to depend upon the resources of
the the Alps. Alps. Milk, whey.; whey, butterbuttermilk, butter and milk, cream,
cream, butter and cheese, cheese, supplemented supplemented by by salted salted
meats, constitute their basic diet during the season. season. They They do, do,
however, have have a a few few traditional traditional dishes. dishes. ln In the
the Appenzell isfenz, a thick, lightly salted porridge made of pastures there
thereisfenz, of flour and buttermilk, cooked over the tire fire in a a cauldron or
or in in traditional three-legged three-legged pot. pot. This the traditional This
porridge may also also be be prepared prepared with milk and with cream (nidel-
fenz). (nidel-fenz'1. Room-zonne is another cream-based cream-based porridge that
is is cooked over over the fire. fire. fiour as As much flour as it will absorb is
added it, followed followed bya added to it, by a generous slab of mâ is of butter.
Chiiiis schoppe or alte prepared altend is prepared by placing alternating layers
of alternating layers of stale bread bread and and slices slices of of cheese in
cheese in a a cauldron, cauldron, and and sprinkling with with milk. milk. Once
Once the the pn~paration is is thoroughly soaked, it is preparation fried gently in
butter is fried butter until golden brown, rather like a thick waffie. waffie.
perhaps named These dishes, dishes, perhaps named differently and varying slightly
in their preparation, preparation, are slightly are found in al! all the chalets of
the of the Central Swiss Alps. Polenta has been Polenta has been recently
introduced introduced into Valais and Grisons. Mill< Milk or water is is drunk,
drunk. the latter the latter sometimes with a a dash dash of kirsch. sometimes

TURKISH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUl SINE TURQUE TURKISH cursINE rrJRer.JE Because of of
the the - Because country's long subjugation subjugation to the Greeks, there is is
no no such such What exists as Turkish Turkish cuisine. thing as local cuisine
cuisine. What exists is is a a local anisine ininfluenced by the the various
various races races that make fluenced make up up the the nation, nation,
domidominated by the more refined Greek cuisine. nated cuisine. Turkish cuisine,
then, enjoyed The Turkish caisine, then, enjoyed by by Persians, Persians, Kurds,
Kurds, Armenians, Rumanians, R umanians, Albanians, Albanians, the Armenians, the
island island population, European colonials colonials and and the the Jewish
European Jewish people (for it it conforms conforms of the the Talmud) to the the
principles of to quite a Talmud) comprises comprises quite a wide wide range
ofdishes. range and its its immediate Immediate vicinity, the water In Istanbul and
vicinity, the water is is of of such purity and and digestibility that that it it
is looked upon such is looked upon as as a a of elixir. elixir. People make
pilgrimages to kind of kind to drink drink the the Taxim Taxim Dere waters, of it
with and and Buyuk Dere waters, and carry bottles of it away with them. A proverb
proverb says says that that 'whoever 'whoever has has once them. once drunk the the
ofTaxim will always always return retum to to drink drink it it again'. waters of
waters Taxim will again'. Apart from from lamb lamb and and mutton, mutton, meat
meat is is far far from good. Apart from good. of ox ox meat; meat; veal veal is is
scarce Buffalo meat meat takes takes the the place place of Buffalo scarce and and
pork is is forbidden forbidden for for religious reasons; poultry is poor. lean;
pork lean; that most most meat meat dishes are made of mutton or This means means
that This lamb. lamb. is an an abundance abundance of of vegetables: vegetables:
artichokes, artichokes, totoThere is There matoes, courgettes, courgettes,
aubergines, giant french french beans, beans, gombos. gombos. matoes, is the the
national national dish; Turks soak soale their their rice rice for few Rice is Rice
for a a few minutes in in strongly strongly salted salted water water before before
cooking it using a a minutes of Alep Alep butter, butter, the the surplus surplus
of which is is large quantity quantity of large poured offat off at the the end end
of of cooking. cooking. poured is savoury and and spicy. spicy. It It is is also
also very very rich, rich, Oriental cooking cooking is Oriental oil plays plays an
an important important part in its its preparation. preparation. as oil as
Pâtisserie is is heavy heavy and generally very very sweet. sweet. It It is is
always Pdtisserie always served with with large large glasses glasses of water.
served The milk milk usd used is is buffalo buffalo milk. milk. The
INTOXICATION INTOXICATION
Fruits come mostly from from Asia, Smyrna and and Jaffa: figs, peaches, oranges,
melons, water melons, melons, muscat muscat grapes, peaches, oranges, melons, water
grapes, strawberries, apricots, apricots, plums, Jerusalem Jerusalem grapes, plums,
almonds, cherries, apples, etc. Cooking is done in hemispheres hemispheres of
beaten beaten copper called djindjdres. djindjères. containing a In each containing
djindjlres, each ln the cheaper cheaper restaurants, djindjères, ragofit, are
ranged ranged side by side on a different ragoût, a 'silo', which which is
different to conserve conserve the the heat. covered with cinders to heat. They
stay there covered from one meal to another, just mealto just as lamb and mutton
remain constantly on the constantly tbe spit. In Constantinople, some restaurants
stay open all Constantinople, sorne ail night, night, In and are many itinerant
food and there are food sellers, offering cooked lamb and chicken offal, white
rice, chick peas, spit-roasted lamb grilled fish, simits, waffies, salep, ices,
cheese, grilled cheese, fish, tea, tea, coffee, salep, ices, simits, waffies,
chicory, mizis, etc. melonsn melons, chicory, mézés, etc. melons, water melons,
passod from the Greek that has One habit habit that has been been passed from the
Greek to to the mizis in caf6s in evening Turks is of eating mézés Turks is that
that of in the the cafés in the the evening between 5 o'dock o'clock and and 8 8
o'dock, o'clock, together with with numerous between 5 and ouzo. Mizis are hors-
d'œuvre hors-d'ezvre consisting glasses of raki raki and Mézés are of cheese,
cheese, fried fish, fish, horseradishes, cucumbers, cucumbers, pieces of of
radishes, horsesalad, olives, olives, salad, tomato and and onion salad, bean
salad, radish, haricot bean sweetcorn, sweetcorn, diced swordfish, salted almonds,
etc. of the are essential Kacher cheese and Kacher cheese and yogurt yogurt are
essential items items of Turkish diet, together with olives Turkisb olives and raw
onions. Turkish delight delight are fruit syrups and flower and and fruit Jams,
llower Jams, and Turkish melons, cucumbers, todelicacies, delicacies, as as are are
melons, melons, water water melons, of which are eaten raw. matoes matoes and
chicory, chicory, all of aloli à d la grecEte specialities are arc afoli The most
typical Turkish specialities grecque d la (see AIOU), coascotts, dagh kebabs,
dolmas à (see AÏOLI), Armenimt Armenian couscous, la persane, aubergine d la
macaroni à keftes-kebabs, macaroni turque, persane, aubergine turque, keftes-
kebabs, soup, lourtourrice pilaf, tripe soup, purde, purée, red caviare purie,
purée, riee pilaf, lamb's tripe (Most of these these may be louyouvetsch, Jaffa
oranges in syrup. louyouvetsch, syrup. (Most found in alphabetical order in this
volume.)
general effect The general effect of of the INTOXICATION - The INTOXICATION the
phenomena produced by the action of a poison. INToxrcATIoN ALCOOLIQUE Alcoouetre -
See intoxication. INTOXICATION Alcoholic Alcoholic intoxicatioll. ALCOHOLISM.
intoxication. INroxcATIoN Food intoxicatioll. Food INTOXlCA TION ALIMENTAIRE
ALIMENTAIRE It is categories of food differentiate between essential to
differentiate between the two categories already poisonous intoxication: that
caused caused by food which is already intoxication: poi5Onous (or has ingestion;
so through putrefaction) become 50 (or has become putrefaction) before ingestion;
food rendered caused by by wholesome food and that and tbat caused rendered toxic
loxic by putrefactions produced producd by in the inby it it in or putrefactions
fermentations or fermentations the intestine. testine. consists of of latter
consists for the Dietetic remedial treatment treatment for the latter Oietetic
remedial and offering offering reducing the quantity of the troublesome food food
and encourage the it in a more digestible form. The residues that encourage il of
microbes are are tbus thus eliminated eliminated since the digestive growth of
juices transform the food food completely. juices transform the case case of
proteic This is is why, wby, in in tbe proleic putrefaction, putrefaction, the
proproand that portion diet is portion of albumins in the diel is reduced reduced
and tbat of of farifrom naceous foods increased. Inversely, when when a child
suffers from intestinal intestinal catarrh caused by hydrocarbonic hydrocarbonic
fermentations, fermentations, a (albuprescribed (albudiet is albumin-rich diet
starch-reduced, albumin-rich starch-reduced, is prescribed minous milk, buttermilk,
buttermilk, etc.).

IRON CONTENT CONTENT OF CERTAIN FOODS IRON OF CERTAIN /,00 g.) (in mg. per per 100
Whole eggs 3'5 Beef Beef 3·5 Who le eggs 0'46 Cow's milk Mutton Mutton 0·46 milk
l'5 Butter Very fat pork pork 1·5 Butter 7'9 Wheatgerm Offal Wheatgerm Olfal 7·9 I
Wholemeal Eel 1 Wholemeal bread bread Eel I White bread Salmon Salmon 1 bread l'2
Smoked herring herring 1·2 Root vegetables vegetables 5'7 Oysters Oysters 5·7

3'l 3·1 0'15 0·15 0'2 0·2 4'07 4·07 3 3 l'2 1·2 0'7 0·7

IRRORATELJR IRRORATEUR (Spray gun) - Piece Pieee of apparatus, invented by perfume

rooms, by Brillat-Savarin, Brillai-Savarin, which which was was used used to to
perfume especially the dining-room. in the preface Brillat-Savarin writes writes in
preface to to la Physiologie du goitt: '1 submitted council of submitted to goût:
to the the council of the the Society for for the piece irrorateur, a piece of
National Industries my Encouragement of my irrorateur, a other than is none other
of apparatus invented by me, which is of lhan a spray which can fill a room
compressor spray room with perfume. perfume. pocket. Il It was 'I had in my pocket.
'1 had brought the the spray with me, me, in I turnod well-fiIled. well-filled. 1
turned on the tap and, with a hissing hissing sound, out sweet-smelling vapour
which rose came a a sweet-smelling came rose right right up up to to the ceiling
ceiling and the,n then fell in tiny drops on the people people present present and
on their papers. 'It was then that 1 I witnessed, witnessed, with indescribable
pleasure, pleasure, the heads of the wisest men in the capital bending under my
'irroration'.I1 was enraptured to note that the wettest among 'irroration'. also
the happiest.' them were al50

'l

of the best some of ISIGNY ISIGNY - A small town in Calvados where sorne cream.
France is made from its famous cream. butter in Franee
polssoN CLARlFlÉE(Geladne). COLLE ISINGLASS coLLE DE POISSON cLenlrrfs-'Take
ISINGLASS (Gelatine). 'Take (l-oz.) sheel cutting it of gelatine; after cutting
sheet of a 25-g. 25-9. (l-oz.) a it into into small pieces, wash it, put it in a
pan with 8 glasses of filtered filterd water pieces, g. (2 oz., oz.,* and 50 g. !
cup) sugar. Put it it on the fire. established, put the pan on the 'As soon as
rapid boiling is established, of the fire in such a way way as to to keep it
boiling. side of scum as as it 'Take care care to remove the the scum it rises and
when the glass of good glass it through of gelatine, strain il reduction reduction
produces produces a good a napkin into a clean vessel. a vesse!. gelatine can and
the gelatine 'The proper proper clarification of the sugar and fruit and succes of
of attractive of success be considered the be considered the secret of attractive
fruit (Car€me.) liqueur liqueur jellies.' jellies.' (Carême.)

- It

(U.S. zucchini). ancchini). MARROWS' COURGEITES ITALIAN MARROWS, COLJRGETTFS (V.S.

Variety of gourd with short fruits. Courgettes couRcErrEs COURGETIES - Variety
coucourzelle, name of courgeron, courgeron, coucourzelle, are also also known under
the narne are or ltalian squash sqmsh or they are are called called lta/ian and
zuchetti. and zuchelli. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. they zucchini. zucchini. a very
delicate taste. Courgettes have a or not. Method Method of of preparation.
Courgettes may be peeled peeled or not. thick it is peeled, cut into vegetable is
When the vegetable is to be fried it into thick flour, or little sticks, sticks,
soaked in milk, drained, rolled in flour, rounds or and deep-fried in boiling oil.
cr6ole. COURGETTES couRcETTEs A I la Itatian la créole, À Il LA cnforr CRÉOLE
Italillll marrow$ mlIrrows, à dice the flesh, and remove the seeds, Peel the
courgettes, rem seeds, dice Peel the courgettes, ove the the llesh, pan and cook
cook on the pan brown brown in good fat. Add salt, put the lid on time to heat,
stirring from slowly on slowly on low heat. from time to time. Crush thern them all
the moisture has evaporated. a spoon and cook until aIl with a colour before
serving. serving. a golden colour Let the pulp acquire a garnish. COURGETTES
crlcfes coURGETTEs GLACÉESGlazed ltrliln mrrrow gamish. Glazed Italillll marrow
into lozenge Divide the courgettes courgettes in quarters and trim them into Oivide
a few minutes and drain. even size. size. Blanch for a shape of even (3 tablepan
with saut6 pan Put in a a sauté Put them them in with 2 2 tablespoons (3 spoons)
butter, a pinch of salt, and a little spoons) Iittle sugar. Cover with with gently
until cold water. Bring Bring to the boil, cover, until the cover, and cook gently
disappeared. Sauté Saute the courgettes entirely disappeared. liquid has almost
entirely it. in the remaining liquor so that they are coated with il.

IRIDESCENT SEAWEED. np6n Edible seaweed seaweed reSEAWEED. !RIDÉE IRIDESCENT -

Edible colouring. It markable for its variegated variega ted colouring. lt is eaten
raw in salad or cooked like French beans.
(British cookery) IRISH STEW STBW (British cookery)IRISH - This dish really belongs
belongs to the Irish Irish culinary repertoire. repertoire. It It is is mutton
stewed in in white white mullon stewed the (See MUTTON.) and sliced sliced onions.
(See MUTTON.) stock with with potatoes and

quantipresent in iron is small quantirnn-Although iron IR.ON. IRON. FER-Although is

present in v9ry very smaU part (5 or important part or 6 g.), it has a very
important ties in the human body (5 to play in the body's functioning.
512
ITALIAN MARROWS IT ALlAN MARROWS
little spinach sirnrnered in butter, has been a !ittle simmered in butter, has been
added. added. Add Add a Parmesan cheese to and sorne stuffing, a some Parmesan
cheese to the tbe stuffing, a little little garlic and chopped parsley. parsley.
Sprinkle with browned breadcrumbs. breadcrurnbs. Pour olive oil over oven. the
courgettes courgettes and brown in the oyen. mingr6lienne (Russian Italian Italian
marrows marrows à la la mingrélienne @ussian cookery). A U, rr,rnCnfuENNS-Peel the
courgettes COURGETTFS FARCIES À LA MINGRÉLIENNE-Peel courgettes CoTJRGETTES FARCTES
crn (2 inches) and cut them thern into slices 5 cm inches) thick. Remove Rernove
the drain the slices. slices. seeds, blanch and drain rice, some ri ce, put it
under the cold co Id tap, and Blanch and drain sorne drain some fat drain again.
again. Add Add sorne fat chopped chopped mutton, rnutton, chopped cbopped onion
softened in butter, chopped fennel, fennel, a little garlic, garlic, salt and
pepper. Mix well. weIl. Fill the courgettes with this the tops. this stuffing,
rounding the Arrange in in a buttered sauté pan, packing packing them thern in in
fairly a buttered sautd pan, stock. Start tightly. with tomato-flavoured tomato-
flavoured veal veal stock. tightly. Moisten with oven with cooking on the stove,
stove, and continue gently in the oyen the lid !id on. Baste the dish with its own
juice juice during cooking. councnrrrs A Itdian I. COURGETTES Italian marromr
marrows à la nigoise niçoise 1. À LA NtgotsnNIÇOISEPare the courgettes, slices,
salt them, courgettes, cut them thern into thin slices, thern, wipe with sautd them
with a cloth, cloth, sprinkle sprinkle flour and sauté them in oil in a pan on a
strong flame. flarne. Put them in a a dish, dish, alternating them with skimmed and
seeded tomatoes which have been sliced and lightly lightly fried fried in oil. Pour
2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) boiling oil, in which whicb parsley have have been
been rapidly rapidly browned, sorne garlic garlic and chopped parsley some over the
slices. slices. A little little sliced onion, onion, browned in oil, can also be
added to this dish. disb. Italian Italian marrows marrows i à la nigoise niçoise
II. D. councsrrEs COURGETTES A À r,r LA wrgorsn NIÇOISE Divide the courgettes in
half balf lengthways. Make Make an incision incision (around round the pulp, ! cm.
(* (t inch) from frorn the edge, and several (a * c*. little of the pulp. little
cuts in the middle rniddle of Season the courgettes with salt, put them tbern on a
cloth and leave them them to get rid of of excess moisture. Dry and cook them thern
gently in oil, without without letting letting thern tbern brown too much. rnuch.
Drain. Take out three-quarters three-quarters of the the pulp, without damaging
darnaging

3ourgettes d Courgettes à la nigoise niçoise II II

Italian marrow i à la grecque (horsd'auwe). (hors-d'œuvre). councrrres COURGETTES A

À LA GREcQLJE GRECQUE - Divide the courgettes courgettes into small slices slices
without without peeling them, thern, or trim them thern into lozenge lozenge
shapes. Put thern tbern into a a court-bouillon prepared in the manner described
described for Artichokes HORS-D'ŒUVRE). Finish in Artichokes d à la grecque (see
HORS-D'(EUVRE).
the same way.
Prepare Prepare the marrows rnarrows the same same ts as for Glazed Glazed ltalian
Italian marrow. Simmer Season with salt and a good thern in butter. butter. Season
good pinch of Sim mer them

rl

Italian Italian marrorc marrows i à I'indienne. l'indienne. coTJRGETTEs COURGETTES

A À I'rNoENNs L'INDIENNE -
curry powder.

When When they they are are cooked, cooked, pour pour over over a a few few
tablespoons Bichamel Béchamel sauce (se (see SAUCE). Mix without breaking the
courgettes. courgettes.

Italian Italian m&rrows marrows i à la la mentonnalse. mentonnaise. councETTEs

COURGETTES A À LA

MENToNNAISn MENTONNAISE

- Prepare the courgettes courgettes in the way described described for ltalian
Italian marrow marrow d à lanigoise.I/(see la niçoise II (see below). Stuff the
halved courgettes with their chopped pulp, pulp, to which which an equal quantity
of blanched, drained and chopped chopped

frdl

Italian ltalian pasta: paSla: Spaghetti Spaghetti alla alla bolognese bolognese

513 513
ITALIAN ITALlAN PASTA
the skin. Chop the skin. Chop the the pulp. pulp. Add Add two-thirds lwo-lhirds of
of irc iLS weight weighl of of risotto risollo flavoured flavoured with wilh
Parmesan Parmesan and and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons)
thick thiek tomato lomato pur6e, purée, flavoured with with a touch loueh of of
cylinder equipped with wilh a die, and and pressure pressure is applied to it il by
by cylinder equipped hydraulic press. A fan is placed placed near near the outlet
outlet of of the the die to 10 a hydraulic begin the drying drying process,
process, which which ends ends in the the drying drying oven. oyen. The small pasta
pasta products producl~ are are cut eut as they they enierge emerge from from the
rylinder cylinder small bt bl means means of a a circular knife; the the others
others are are produced produced in different lengths. Egg pasta is made made by by
adding dry or fresh ordinary eggs to the mixture. The slightly yellow colour of
ordinary pasta pasta is is due due to to the addition addition of of turmeric
turroeric or or to to various various chemical colourings. colourings. The The food
food value value of of pasta pasta products products is is the the same same as a~
that that of of the the cereals from from which whicb it il is is made. made. It IL
contains con tains glucides glucides or or carbocarbocereals hydrates hydrates and
mineral mineraI salts, salts, but but only very very small amounts amounts of
protein, protein, fats fats and and vitamins vitamins (mostly (mostly Vitamin
Vitamin Bl). BI). Pasta Pasta is is essentially essentially an an energy energy
food food providing providing the the body body with with 350 350 calories calories
per 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) pasta. pasta. It lt is is an an excellent
excellent staple staple food. food. For For the the preparation preparation of
home-made home-made noodles, noodles, see see NOODLES. NOODLES.

grated grated garlic. garEc. Stuff Sluff the the halved halved courgettes with wilh
this mixture. mixture. Smooth Smooth the the stuffing sluffing with with a a fork,
fork, giving giving it it a a lightly lightly domed shape. Put Put the the
courgettes in in an an oiled oiled gratin gratin dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with
with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, pour pour over some sorne oil, oil, brown brown
gently gently in in the oven. oyen. To To serve, serve, surround surround them them
with with a a few few tablespoons good good veal veaJ stock stock and and sprinkle
sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Itrlhn Italilln marrotrB maITQWS I à
la provcngale. provençale. corrRcErrrs COURGETIES A À rl LA pnovrNPROVENgArJ ÇALE -
Cut Cut the the courgettes courgettes into into thick thick slices, without without
peeling peeling them. them. Salt, Salt, dry, dry, sprinkle sprinkle with with flour
flour and aod saute sauté them them in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange the the slices
slices in in layers layers tn in a a gratin gratin dish, dish, alternating
alternating them them with with rice rice cooked in in stock, stock, and aod
tomatoes tomatoes lightly lightly fried fried in with sliced sliced onions, on
ions, parsley, parsley, and and chopped chopped garlic. garlie. in oil, oil, with
Smooth Smooth the the surface surface of of the the dish, dish, cover coYer with
with grated grated cheese, cheese, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen.
Itrlirn ltalim marrow marrow salad. saI ad. corrRcETTEs COURGETTES EN EN SALADE
SALADE - Divide Divide the the courgettes courgettes lengthways lengthways into
into quarters. quarters. Blanch Blanch them them in in boiling boiling salt salt
water water for for 6 6 to to 8 8 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain and and wipe wipe
thern them on on a a cloth. c1oth. Put Put therr them in in a a salad salad bowl.
bowl. Pour Pour over over the,m them a a few few tabletablespoons spoons
Vinaigrette Vinaigrel/e sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle
generously generously with with chervil chervil and and chopped chopped tarragon.
tarragon. This This salad salad can can be be served served with with mayonnaise.
mayonnaise. Itdirn Italim marrom marrQWS surt6ed. sautéed. couRcETTEs COURGETTES
s{urEns SAUTÉES - Peel Peel the the courgettes, courgettes, cut eut them them in in
slices, slices, flour flour them them and and saut6 sauté in in oil oil or or
butter. butter. ITALIAN ITALIAN PASTA PASTA (Pasta (pasta products). products).
pAres PÂTES eLnrENrArREs ALIMENTAIRESDrid Dried wheaten wheaten flour flour
preparation, preparation, mostly mostly made made from from durum durum wheat.
wheat. The The flour flour is is well weil kneaded kneaded into into a a stiffdough
stiff dough and and forced forced through through specially specially perforated
perforated cylinders cylinders from from which which it il comes eomes out out in
in various various shapes, shapes, known known by by different different names
names (macaroni, (macaroni, spaghetti, spaghetti, vermicelli, vermicelli,
crescioni, crescioni, ditalini ditalin~ fedelini, fedelini, ravioli, ravioli,
reginette, reginette, strichetti, strichetti, tagliarini, tagliarini, tagliatelli,
tagliatelli, tortellini, tortellini, etc.) etc.) They They are are made made by by
kneading kneading vigorously vigorously hard hard (red) (red) wheat wheat with
withboiling boilingwater. waler. After Afterkneading, kneading, the thepaste
pasteis isput pulin inaabronze bronze

of

ITALIEIYI\E IT ALIENNE (A (A L)V) - Name Name grven given to to various various

dishes dishes made made of meat, meat, poultry, poultry, fish fisb and and
vegetables. vegetables. In In all aU these these dishes dishes finely finely
diced diced or or chopped chopped mushrooms mushrooms are arc used. used.

The The name name d à I'italienne l'italienne is is also also given given to to a a
method method of of prepreparing paring macaroni macaroni or or other other pastas.
pastas.

ITALY ITALY - See See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, COOKERY, WINE. WINE.

WAIV A - Name Name grven given in in some some districts districts of ofFrance
France to to the the yarrow, yarrow, and and to to a a tlpe type of ofgentian.
gentian.

MIRE IVOIRE (A (A L') V) - Method Method of of preparation preparation used used

especially especially for for
poultry. poultry. (See (Sœ CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken d à l'ivoire.)
l'ivoire.)
IVROGIYE IVROGNEDE DE MER MER- Small Small fish fish with with red red scales
scales found found in in the the Atlantic, Atlantic, and and in in the the
Mediterranean Mediterranean and and Adriatic. Adriatic. Its Ils flesh flesh is is
tough, lough, but but it il is is edible. edible.

IZARD. IZARD. rs^lnoISARD-Name Namegiven given to 10the thewild wild goat goat of
ofthe thePyr6n6es. Pyrénées. For For methods methods of ofcooking cooking it il see
see ROEBUCK. ROEBUCK.

514
JALOUSIES - Little cakes cakes made made of of flaky f1aky pastry. JALOUSIES(see
Method L J. Roll Roll out out a a piece piece of of Flaky Flaky pastry pastry dough
dough (see (3 inches) and cut cut it into into strips strips about 7t inches) 7l
cm. cm. (3 DOUGH) and
wide.

spread a layer layer of Almond Almond paste (se (see ALMOND) f1avoured flavoured
vaniJla on the the slices. slices. with vanilla with twisted to make a a crissdough
to strips of dough Decorate with twisted strips cross pattern. pattern. Secure this
by pressing pressing down at each edge edge of the slice water so with water dough
moistened moistened with slice a a narrow strip of dough edges. Brush with beaten
egg. sticks firrnly. Crimp the edges. that it sticks Bake in a oven. When cooked,
spread apricot jam a medium oven. on top. Cut into pieces of equaJ . equal size
size. Method II. it into 2 cut it into 2 flaky pastry, cut a piece of flaky //.
Roll Roll out a pieces, each (4 inches) wide). l0 cm. (4 each 10 Place baking
sheet. sheet. moistened baking a slightly slightly moistened these on on a Place
one one of these jam, Brush the with jam, Spread with water. Spread the edges of
the the dough with water. edges of leaving a If in ha half dough in Fold the the
second length of dough a border. border. Fold lengthwise. Using the back knifs,
carefully cut the the calslully cut a large large knife, back of of a folded dough
into strips a border at at leavrng a of equal equal width, leaving strips of each .
Open the on the it carefully carefully on and lay lay it the dough dough and out
the each end end. Open out join them. jam. Press slice Trim the the to join them.
Trim edges to Press the edges spread with with jam. slice spread edges them. neatly
and and crimp crimp them. edges neatly Brush for oven for in a a medium modium oven
Bake in beaten egg. egg. Bake the top top with with beaten Brush the jam 25 spread
jam the oven, oven, spread the tart tart out out of of the Take the 25 to to 30 30
minutes. minutes. Take on round the the edge. edge. crystals round sugar crystals
on it it and and sprinkle sprinkle sugar Cut (l| inches) to cool cool wide. Leave
Leave to a cm. inches) wide. cm. (1 into strips about 4 Cut into strips about on on
a a wire wire tray. tray.

Leaving a 1 cm. cm. (* (t inch) around the edges, around the of I Leaving a margin
of

are essences are artificial essences the word fantaisie. contain the When
artificial contain fantaisie. When (artificial artificiel (artificial ot arome
arome artificiel words fantaisie the words added, the added, fantaisie or colouring
When colouring label. When the label. on the appear on must appear flavouring) must
f1avouring) matter is added, this must be indicated. matter colouring matter
product made with essences, acids and colouring A product sold under under only be
be sold and can can only fruit" and a fruit, name the na cannot bear the me of a
product) with, (artificial product) if with, if pro&tit artificiel artificiel
(artificial name of produit the name the pure sugar. sugar. necessary, the mention
of pure or marmelades marmeladcs fruiq or of fruit, of mixtures of or of Jams made
of fruit or preserve fruits fruits to preserve used to has been been used which has
syrup which made with with syrup made the bear the glucose) must per cent must bear
cent glucose) (syrup containing 5 per about 5 containing about (syrup preserved
fruit fruit (made with with preserved confits (made sirop de de fruits words au an
sirop words fruits confits syrup). syrup). and fruit and of fruit from a a basis
basis of obtained from are obtained of which which are Jams, ail all of Jams,
categories: various categories: into various can be be divided divided into sugar,
can sugar, Apricots, sugar. Apricots, with sugar. fruit with stoned fruit cooking
stoned made by by cooking l. Jams Jams made 1. plums, etc., used and, and, are used
etc., are oranges, plums, strawberries, oranges, cherries, strawberries, cherries,
halved. prepared who or halved. whole fruit is is prepared the fruit kind, the to
its its kind, according to according le or juice of sugar' fruits and and sugar. of
fruits the juice with the only with made only 2. Jellies Jellies made 2. pulp and
and fruit pulp prepared with strained fruit with strained Marmelades prepared 3.
Marmelades 3. sugar. sugar. theraisinés raisinds as the such base, su multiple
base, with aa multiple made with 4. Jams Jams made 4. ch as preparations. (q.v.),
or similar preparations. or other other simiJar (q.v.),

JAMS - A preparation A preparation cElfrt."coNnrunns, GELÉES AI{D JELLIES. JELLIES.

CONFITURES, JAI4S AND of follows: France is is as as follows: in France legal
definition definition in the legal fruit for for which which the of fruit 'Products
sugar or crystallised crystallised sugar of refined refined or solely of
constituted solely 'Products constituted and juice of preserved in in sorne some or
preserved fresh fruits, fruits, or of fresh fresh fruits fruits or or juice and
fresh way (Decree of 1925). 25September September 1925). of 25 drying.' (Decree
other than than by by drying.' way other They per cent and cent moisture, moisture,
and of 40 4O per a maximum maximum of must contain contain a They must in Id 60 per
55 per per cent of which 55 dry extract, extract, ofwhich cent dry hold 60 per in
consequence consequence ho cent percent.) 7 per cent.) (Fruit already 5 to to 7
contains 5 already contains cent must must be be sugar. sugar. (Fruit Only to this
this definition definition products which which correspond correspond to Only those
those products have. a right pure fruit, sugar. labelled pure right to have.a to be
be labelled Wre sugar. fruit, pure The (in practice, practice, apple apple fruits
(in the mixing mixing of of fruits law authorises authorises the The law juice
jellies), on juice is particularly for on condicondifor jellies), great deal, deal,
particularly is used used aa great tion put tirst proportion is isput first in the
thehighest highestproportion used in the fruit fruit used tion that that the on the
label. label. on the Marmelades (q.v.) must thesamedefinition same'definition to
the mustcorrespond correspond to Marmelades (q.v.) as percent, and jams, but cent,
and aslow lowas as55 55per fallas extractcan canfall dry extract as jams, but the
thedry the been hasalready already been which has or sugar sugar which sugar, or of
brown brownsugar, the use useof used isallowed. allowed. fruit, is for
crystallising crystallising fruit, used for If label must must thelabel isadded,
added,the citricacid acid is orcitric If tartaric tartaric acid acidor 515 515

panwith Preserving pan wil6skimming skimming ladle ladle Preservi.og (De hiller
in.Phol. Pho t.Larousse) Larousse) (Dehi/lerin.

quantity of sugarused used Thequantity ofsugar FABRTcATToN - - The Jam-making. Jam-

making. FABRICATION question. Sugar not Sugarisisused usednot inquestion. fruitin
varies tothe thefruit variesaccording according to preserve it. preparation,but
it.When When but10 topreserve thepreparation, only only to tosweeten sweeten the
must areused, used,sugar sugarmust slight acidity acidityare withslight rather
fruitswith ratherwatery wateryfruits fruit. quantityto thatof ofthe thefruit.
toequal equalthat be inaaquantity beintroduced introduced in containingmucilaginous
mucilaginous For moresubstance, substance,containing Forfruits fruitsof ofmore
JAMS AND AND JELLIES JELUES
matter, malter, the quantity quantity of sugar should be be reduced. red uced , The
best quality sugar sugar should be usd. used,

Too Too much much sugar sugar

oversweetens oversweetens the the jam, jam, noticeably noticeably

stirring stining all all the time time on on a a gentle gent le heat. heat. Raise
the the heat heat and and continue to 10 cook cook until the Ihe jelling jelling
stage stage is is reached. reached. Add
Cherry Cherry iom jam I. coNFIruRE CONFITURE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - For I 1 kg. (2
lb.) stoned sloned cherries, use use I 1 kg. kg. (2 lb., lb" 4 cups) sugar and and
I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! cup) water. Proceod Proceed in in
the same same way as i c,rp) for Apricot Apricot jarn jam I. 1. If If the the
cherries are very very sweet, only 750 g. g, (lj (lt lb., 3 cups) cups) sugar sugar
should should be be used for I 1kg. (21b.) (2Jb,) fruit. Cherry Cherry jam jam II.
II. coNnrunn CONFITURE DE DE cERrsEsCERISES - I 1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb,) cherries,
cherries, I 1 kg. (2 lb., 4 cups) sugar, 5 dl. (scant (seant pint,2l pint, 2:\:
cups) cups) goosegooseberry berry juice, juice, I 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant i t cup) water. water. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar
sugar in the water and and boil for for 5 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the
cherries and and the the gooseberry juice. juice. Cook and and finish in in the Ihe
usual way. way. The addition of gooseberry juice juice makes makes for more more
rapid rapid cooking cooking and and a a more fragrant fragrant jam jam as well.
weIL Chestnut Chestnul jam. jam. coNnruRE CONFITURE DE DE MARRoNs MARRONS - See See
CHESTNUTS. NUTS, Melon Melon jam. jam. coNFIrrrRE CONFITURE DE DE MELoN MELON - For
For] kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb,) melon, melon, 1 kg. net weight, weight, after removing
removing rind rind and and seedsn seeds, 750 g. (l+ (lt lb., lb., 3 cu ps) fine
fine sugar. sugar. 3 cups) Cut the the flesh ftesh of the the melon melon into inta
little pieces. pieces, Put Put these these in in Cut layers layers in in a a large
large basin, basin, sprinkling sprinkling each each layer layer with sugar. sugar.
Leave Leave to to stand in in a a cool cool place place for for 3 3 or or 4 hours,
hours, then then put put the the contents contents of of the the basin basin into
into a a pan pan and and cook cook to to the the jelling jelling stage stage as as
described described above. ab ove. Qpnnge Q{ange jam. jam. coNFrruRE CONFITURE
D'oRANcEs D'ORANGF-S - For For I 1 litre litre (If; (Ii pints, pints, generous
generous quart) quarl) orange orange puree, purée, I] kg. kg, (2 (2 lb., lb., 4 4
cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * ~ cup)
cup) water water and 3 3 dl. dl. (+ (~. pint, pint, l{ li cups) cups) apple apple
juice. juice. Choose Choose oranges oranges of of the the same size, sound and and
with with a a thick thick skin. Prick Prick them them here here and and there there
rather rather deeply deeply with wilh a a little little pointed pointed stick.
stick. Put Put them Ihem in in a a pan pan of of boiling boiling water water and
and leave leave to 10 cook cook rapidly rapidly for for 30 30 minutes. minutes.
Drain, Drain, and and soak them them in in a a basin basin of of cold cold water,
water, reneviing renewing the the water waler frequently, frequently, for 24 24
hours. hours, This rather rather prolonged prolonged operation operation removes
removes the the bitterness bitterness from from the the orange orange rind rind and
and softens softens it it more more completely. completely. Drain Drain the the
oranges, oranges, divide divide them them into into quarters, quarters, remove
remove the the pips pips and and pith pith and and pass pass through through a a
sieve. sieve. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar sugar with with the the water water
in in a a pan. pan, Boil Boil for for a a few few moments, moments, and and skim.
Add Add the the orange orange puree purée and and the the apple apple juice. juice,
Finish Finish in in the the same same way way as as the the recipes recipes above.
above. Peach Peach iam. jam. courrrr;Rr CONFITURE DE DE pEcsns PÊCHES - Proceed
Proceed with with stoned stoned and and skinned skinned peaches peaches in in the
the same same way way as as for for Apricot Apricoijam. jam, Pineapple Pineapple
iam. jam. coNnrunu CONFITURE D'ANANAs D'ANANAS - For For] kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb,) I kg.
fresh pineapple (net (net weight, weight, after after removing rernoving the the
outside outside and and fresh pineapple hard hard core), core), 750 750 g. g, (l+
(I! lb., lb., 3 3 cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant seant I t cup) cup) water. waler. Cut Cut the the pineapple
pineapple into into small, small, square square pieces. pieees. Dissolve Dissolve
the the sugar sugar in in the the water water and and cook cook it it to to the the
ball bail stage stage (l16"C., (l J 6°C., 240"F.), tben put put in in the the
pineapple pineapple chunks. chunks. 240°F.), then Cook Cook the the jam jam as as
usual usual until un til it it reachc rcaches the the jelling jelling stage. stage,
Finish Finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Plum Plum jam. Jam. @NFrrrJRE
CONFITURE DE DE pRr;NEs PRUNES - For For every every I 1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb.)
stoned stoned plums, plums, add add 750 750 g. g, (l+ (1 t lb., lb., 3 3 cups)
cups) sugar sugar and and I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant!
water. Prepare Prepare as as for for Apricot Apricoi t cup) water.
shelled shelled apricot apricot kernels. Finish Finish as directed direeted above.
above,

diminishes diminishes the the flavour flavour of of the the fruit, fruit, and risls
risks rapid rapid crystallisacrystallisation. On the other hand, jams jams or
jellies jellies preparod prepared with an tion, On insufficient insufficient
quantity quantity of of sugar sugar are are in in danger danger of of fermenting,
fermenting, or, or, ifthey if they have have been been overcooked, overcooked,
oflacking of lacking all ail flavour. flavour.

Cooking. Cooking, This cannot be be properly properly done without an untinnod

tinned eopper copper or aluminium aluminium utensil. utensiL jam depends The The
time time taken taken to to cook cook the thejam depends upon upon the the
intensity intensity of the the heat to which it is submitted. submitted, It It
cannot cannot be be precisely precisely measured. measured. The cooking period
period is is divided into two IWO phases: phases: during the Ihe first firsl the
the evaporation evaporation of of the Ihe moisture moislure contained contained in
the the fruit takes takes place. place. The process process of of dehydration
dehydration is is complete complete when the the steam rising rising from the pan
is is less less dense and and the the surface surface begins begins to 10 seethe
seetbe rather rather than Ihan to 10 bubble. bubble. Then the Ihe real real cooking
cooking begins, begins, effected effeeted at greater greater or or less Jess speed
speed according according to 10 whether whether the fruit is is watery watery or
easily easiJy jelled. jelled. During During thefirst the first phase, phase, the
the jam jam should should be be skimmed with with an untinned untinned skimming
skimming ladle, to to remove remove all ail the the impurities impurities which
which rise rise to to the the surface. surface. Once Once evaporation evaporation
has has taken ta ken place, place, you you must follow very very closely the the
progress progress of of the the cooking, cooking, which which from from then th en
on on will will be rapid. Put Put the the skimming skimming ladle ladle frequently
frequently into into the the pan pan be very very rapid. to to see sec whether, on
lifting lifting it il out, the the drops drops of of jam jam fall faU off off
easily easiJy or or slowly. slowly, As As soon soon as these these drops drops
collect colleet in in the the centre of of the the skimmer skimmer and slide slowly
off, the the jam jam is ready. ready. It It is is cooked 32o-33 cooked to 10 a a
degree degree called jelling jelling 32°33° (104.5'C., (I04'5°C., 220"F. 220°F. on
the the sugar sugar thermometer). thermometer). Potting, Pnlling, sealing sealing
and and conservation. conservation, As As soon as as the the jam jam has has
achieved achieved the the stage stage known known as as jelling, jelling, remove
remove the the pan pan from from the the fire. lire. Allow Allow the the jam jam to
to cool for for a few few minutes. minutes. Fill FiJJ the the pots, pots, having
having heated heated them them gradually gradually beforehand beforehand so so as
as to to prevent prevent them them from from cracking. cracking. Put Put the the
pots pots on on a a table table and leave leave them them till till the the
following following day. day. Then cover coyer the the surface surface of of the
the jam jam with with a a glycerine glycerine paper paper or or paraffin paraffin
waxo wax, and and seal seal the the top top of of the the pot pot with witb a a
double double paper paper tightly tightly tied lied with with string. string, Gum
on on labels labels indicating indicating the the type Iype of of jam jam and and
store store in in a very dry place. place, very dry jam-making and Failures
Failures in injam-making and remedies. remedies. The The jam jam remains remains
runny. runny, - There is is lack lack of of pectin. peetin, Add Add some sorne
apple apple jelly. jelly. The The jam jam crystallises. crystallises. - The The
fruits fruil~ are are insufficiently insufficiently acid. acid, Cook Cook again,
again, adding adding lemon lemon juice, juice, or Or tartaic lartaric or or citric
citric acid. acid. The The jam jam develops develops mould. mou Id. - The The jars
jars are are inadequately inadequately sealed. sealed. Remove Remove the the mould
mould and and cover cover with with meltod melted paraffin paraffin wax. wax. The
The jam jam ferments. ferments. - The cooking cooking has has been been
insufficient. insufficient. Cook Cook again. again. Recipes Recipes for for jams
jams and and jellies jellies are given given below; below; recipes reeipes for for
marmalade marmalade will will be be found found under under the the separate
separate heading heading MARMALADE. MARMALADE,

JAMS. JAMS, coNFIrrJREs CONFITURESApricot Apricot jm jam I. I. coNFlrrrRr CONFITURE

D'ABRIcors D'ABRICOTS - For For I 1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb.) apricots apricots which
which are are ripe, ripe, net net weight weight stoned, stoned, 750 750 g. g, (l+
(It lb., lb., 3 3 cups) cu ps) sugar. sugar. Put Put the the sugar sugar in in a a
pan pan with with IJ dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! t
cup) cup) water. water. Let Let the the sugar sugar dissolve, dissolve, then then
boil boil for for 5 5 minutes minutes and and

jam. jam,

"up)

skim. skim, Add Add the the apricots. apricots. Cook Cook till till the the jelling
jelling stage stage is is reached, reached, as as described described above. ab
ove, Finish Finish according according to to the the instructions instructions
above above adding, adding, at at the the last last moment, moment, some sorne of
ofthe the apricot apricot kernels kernels which which have have been been
previously previously shelled shelled and and divided divided in in two. Iwo,
Apricot jam tr. coNFIrr.JRE CONFITURE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS - For For I1 kg. kg. (2
(2 lb.) lb.) Apricot jam net net weight weight of of apricots, apricots, 800 800 g.
g, (l* (H lb., lb., 3t 3! cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons,
tablespoons, scant scanl jt cup) cup) water. waler. Fut Put the the fruit, fruit,
sugar sugar and and water water in in a a pan. pan. Let Let the the sugar sugar
melt, melt,
n.

Raspberry Raspbeuyiam. jam. @NFrruRE CONFITURE DE DE FRAMBorsns FRAMBOISES - Remove

Remove stems stems from from raspberries. raspberries, Choose Choose ripe ripe but
but firm firm fruit. fruit. Put Put in in a a copper copper pan. l6'C. (240"F.).
pan. Cover Cover with with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to I116°C (240°F.), For For
I1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb.) of of fruit fruit use use I1kg. kg. Qlb.,4 (2 lb" 4
cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Heat Heat gently gently on on a a small small flame flame
or or in in a a double double cooker cooker so so that that the the sugar sugar
thoroughly thoroughly penetrates penetra tes the the fruit. fruit Remove Remove
from from the the heat heat, and and leave leave overnight. ovemight. Next Next
morning morning drain drain the the raspberries raspberries very very carefully
carefully without without crushing crushing them, them, and and put put the the
syrup syrup back back on on the the stove. stove. Add Add an an

516
JARDINIERE (A LA)
syrup until it coats currant juice. equal equal quantity quantity of of currant
juice. Cook this syrup coats a silver spoon. Put the raspberries raspberries in it
and bring bring to the boil. a layer of currant jelly. Coyer with a of currant
jelly. When the Pot the jam. Cover jam jam is absolutely absolutely cold, coyer
cover the pots. I kg. (2 lb.) Rbubarb jam. jam. cowrrrr.JRn CONFlTURE DE RH{TBARBE
RHUBARBE - For 1 Rhubarb rhubarb outer fibres rhubarb (net (net weight, wcighl,
with with outer fibres removed), removed), 800 800 g. (ltlb., scantlcup) lb.,
$cups) cups) sugar, I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant îcup) water.
rhubarb, according to Skin the stems of young red or green rhubarb, whether one
wishes obtain whether One wishes to to ob tain a a jam jam of one one or or the the
other colour, and divide into pieces colour, picces 5 cm. (2 inches) long. Wash the
pieces, drain, and put put them in with the sugar, which has bas been been
dissolved dissolved with the water and boiled for a few minutes. it. Leave Draw the
tbe pan 10 coyer il. Leave to one side of the stove and cover for so that for l0 10
minutes sc (hat the rhubarb softens. softens. Return the pan jam reaches 10 full
full heat heat and until the jam reaches the and cook, to cook, stirring stirring
until jelling jelling stage. Finish Finish in the usual way. .'n"A",/h","", jam.
CONFITURE FRAiSES coxrrrlJRE DE FRArsEs Strawberry jam. - The strawberries must be
be selected for for perfect unblemished ripeness. rîpeness. Il is must necessary.
In wash them unless absolutely necessaty. advisable not to wash well drained and
dried before befMe cookthis case they should be weil

It

g. (l+ (2 lb.) 750 g. lb., 3 kg. (2 lb.) strawberries (net (net weight), weight),
750 Oi lb., I kg. scant 1 cups) sugar, tablespoons, seant sugar, 1 I dl. (6
tablespoons, t cup) water. water and cook to ball Dissolve the sugar in a pan with
the water bail well. (116°C.. 240"F.), skimming weIl. stage (l16"C., in the stalks
removed, removed, in the dissolved the strawberries, stalks Put the for a stove for
a few Keep the the side side of the sugar. the pan pan on on the the stove sugar.
Keep juice from the the strawberries has thinned minutes. When the juice the sugar
sugar to a a syrupy consistency, drain the fruit through a silk strainer. Cook the
syrup again in the pan until it reaches (240"F.) once more. Put the 116°C. (240°f,)
the strawberries back in the 116"C. pan and cook for 5 at which which the 5 or 6
minutes, to the point at jam jelling stage. Finish in the usual way. jam reaches
the tbejelling (lf, pints, DE TOMA roMArEs I litre (l coxrrrunn DE Tomalo jam.
CONFITURE TES - 1 ~ pînts, Tomato jam. I kg. 4 cups) generous quart) drained kg. (2
drained tomato pulp, 1 generous Q lb., 4 pint, water, 3 dl. dl. (t dl. (6
tablespoons, seant scant cup) waler, sugar, 1 dl. @ pint, I vanilla vanilla pod. It
cups) apple juice, 1 vanilla pod. Cook Dissolve the sugar in the water with the
vanilla to the ball baIl stage (116'C.,240"F.). 240"F.). a sieving it first. Add
the tomato pulp to the pan, sievÎng firsL Cook on a until the the time with the
skimmer until with the lively heat, heat, stirring ail all the jam reaches the
jelling stage. stage. jam Finish in the the usual way. juice may be used. juice,
gooseberry gooseberry juice used. The Instead of apple juice, jelling element to
addition of juice is necessary to supply the thejelling ofjuice jam sets praperly.
properly. the tomatoes, 50 (hat the jam so that jam. CONFlTIJRE For 1 kg. DE
p.lsriQuss Watermelon jam. PASTÈQUES - For coxrtruRE DE (2 lb.) rind and removing
rind net weight weight aCter after removing (2 lb.) watermelon, watennelon, net
(lllb., seeds, 750 g. (1 ~ lb., 3 cups) fine sugar. Melon jarn. same way as as for
Melonjam. Proceed in the same

ing.

i
pints, Cherry jelly. }elly. crr6o GELÉE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - For For 1 litre
litre generorxi (l lb. 14 oz.,3t generous quart) quart) cherry cherry juice juice
use use 850 850 g. (l oz., Ji cups) (6 tablespoons, sugar, G (1 pint, lfi li cups)
apple juice, juice, 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant + cup) water. waler. Proceed in
the same &ame way as as for Currant Curranl jelly jelly (se (see below). Clrrrant
Cummt jelly jeUy I. I. csr"fE GELÉE DE DE GRosEILLEs GROSBlLLES - Use Use two-
thirds redcurrants g. (4 and one-third white. oz.) raspberries redcurrants and
white. 125 ] 25 g. (4 oz.) raspberries are currants. are added to each I 1 kg.Q kg.
(2 lb.) curranls. Crustr currants and and raspberries together and and strain Crush
the the currants them them through through a cloth cio th which whicb is Îs wrung
at both botb ends. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar, slightly moistened with with
hot hot water, allowing 1 kg. allowing kg. (2 for each each litre litre (scant
(seant quart, Q lb., 4 cups) for quart) fruit juice. generous generous quart)
juice. Cook to the jelling jelling stage on on a good heat. C\rrant II. csr6n
ennant jelly n. GELÉE DE DE GRosETLLEs GROSEILLES - Add Add the currants and the
raspberries dissolved in ras;pberr"les to the sugar, which has been been dissolved
a pan, allowing 600 g. I kg. g. (l+ lb., 2j cups) sugar for every every 1 (21b.) (2
lb.) fruit. keeping the pan on a corner of Allow the fruit to swell, keeping of the
stove. Then stove. Then boil quickly until untÎl the jelling stage is is reached.
Strain the jelly decant into pots. Straio jeUy and decant juice can also Redcurrant
also be obtained in the Redcurrantjuice the following way. Put the currants in a
pan with the raspberries. raspberries. Add a glass of water for every 1 kg. (2 lb.)
fruit. Keep at a low temperature until the skins burst comes out. out. Strain juice
as bUl"st and and the juice juice cornes described above. above. deseribed crrm
D'ORANGES D'oRANGES - Rub zest of Orange jelly. GELÉE Rub the the zest of 12
oranges oz., seant scant cup) lump sugar. Add this oranges with 100 g. g. (4 oz.,
sugar, whîch which has abs.orbed absorbed the fragrant oil of the oranges, to 1
litre litre (If, pints, generous quart) apple juice, obtained as described for
Apple jelly. Add the strained juice of the the 12 12 oranges and 900 g. (2 lb., (4
OZ., 7 CllpS) cups) lump sugar. sugar. Add, Add, if desired, desired, 100 100 g. (4
o2.,3 cup) 7 lukewarm crystallised orange peel which has been soaked in lukewarm
water and fine strips. and shredded into fine jelly to thejelling the jelling stage
stage and finish as dcscribed. described. Cook the thejelly peeled quinces quinces
ripe, pceled DE COINGS coINGs cnltn DE Quince jelly. GELÉE Quince - Cut ripe, of
cold cold water as as soon soon as into a a basin into slices. Put them ioto ioto
slices. basin of copper pan with water they have been sliced. Cook them in a copper
(scant quart, generous quart) quart) quart, generous proportion of in of 1 litre in
the proportion litre (seant (l lb.) fruit, without stirring. the as the stirring.
As soon as water for 500 g. (1 a sieve and drain. into a fruit is cooked tum turn
it Înto (11 lb., g. (Il 8CI g. lb., 3| cups) and add add 800 a pan and Put the
juice Put juice into into a generous quart) liquid. (scant quart, quart, generous
litre (seant each litre sugar for sugar for each a lively heat until the jelly has
on a the sugar. sugar. Cook Cook on Dissolve the jelling stage. reachod the jelling
rcachee!

(lt (li

ot
-

given, in name glven, This was was the the name DE BOIS BOIS SOUP JAMBE DE - This
principal ingredient was clearFoup to a clear former times, 10 ,soup whose
principal piece of leg it was was ready, the leg of of beef on on the the bone.
bone. When it a piece a (It was as a wooden as though a away from the bone. bone.
(It meat fell fell away from the floating in the the soup, hence its name.) leg was
fioating

JELLIES. GELÉES cerErs

Appte

pomms jelly. GELÉE jelly IS cslfE DE os POMMES This jelly is made by cutting - This
peeling them good cooking apples into slices slices without without peeling or them
or apples mto pips. The ripe and The fruit removing the fruit should should be be
ripe and perfectly removing the pips. sound. sound. preserving pan pan with pints,
litres (2f, plots, Cook them thern in in a a preservîng with Il litres Cook (2 lb.)
pints) water for for every I kg. ke. (2 lb.) fruit. fruit. As As soon soon as as
the 3f pints) every 1 3i jelly-bag placed placed over a turn them into a a jelly-
bag a apples are cooked, tum large basin. g. (l~ lb., for every litre (scant Add
800 800 g. 1b.,3+ 3i cups) sugar for mustbe quart, generous quart) juice, which
must be obtained without jell. This pressure. Cook This stage stage is is reached
until it begins begins to jeU. pressure. Cook until is let faU fall from the
skimmer onto a a plate when a drop ofjelly is wben without spreading. jelly is
lukewarm, and and coyer cover thcm them Fill the the pots when the jelly is
lukewanu. Fill the the following day. day.

HAM. JAMBON See also also HAM. JA,l\1BON - Sec sous la la cendre which is is often
Jambon de de Prague sous Jambon - Name which (Prague, York used in in menus menus
to ham (Prague, to describe ham York or or other) used cooked in in pastry.
INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. JAPAI\ JAPAN - See INTERNATIONAL

l|

(li

(A LA) number of of differem different dishes are A number JAPONAISE JAFONAISE (À

-A that the,n have this in common, that d lajaponaise. Most of them called à
included Chinese (in French, called Japanese) artichokes are Încluded rs sometimes
sometimes called salad is Francillon sa/ad in in the the ingredients. Francillon
from mussels, mussels, potatoes and It is is made from d la japonaise. ft salade à
younger Alexandre Dumas the younger truffies, and was invented by Alexandre trumes,
Mixed salads). (see SALADS, Mixedsalads). made to an an iced bombe made is also
applîed applied to The tenu term japonaise Îs The filld with tea-ftavoured tea-
flavoured mousse. of peach ice cream filled (A LA) given to gamish made JARDINIERE
(À to a a garnish made of of JARDINIÈRE - Name given
517 517
JASMIN JASMIN
fresh vegetables vegetables -- caHOts (shaped with carrots and and tumips turnips
(shapcd plain or with aa plain or fresh fluted baIl-scoop, ball-scoop, cut cut with
with aa hollow hollow tubular tubular cutter, cutter, or or diced), diced), tluted
greql peas, peas, small (dicd or small kidney kidney beans, beans, French French
beans beans (diced or eut cut into lozenges), lozenges), cauliflower, cauliflower,
etc. etc. These These vegetables are cooked are cooked separately, sorne some
boiled, boiled, others glazd. They are arranged others glazed. ,,separately, round
the the main main dish dish in in separate separate groups. groups. This gamish
garnish is is round served with with roast, roast, stewed stewed or pot-roasted or
braised braisod meat meat and and pot-roasted served

poultry. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) poultry.

triangles are provide a are used used ta to provide a decorative decorative border
border for for aa C()ld cold triangles dish. dish. jelly which They are are made
made from from very very stiff stiff meat meat or or fish fish jelly which is is
They first eut (2 inches) cut into into strÎps strips about about 5 5 cm. cm. (2
inches) wide, wide, and and then then first shapod iota into elongated elongated
triangles produce a triangles ta to produce a dog's dog's tooth tooth shaped
effect. effecL jelly may The jelly may also also he cut into be cut into other
pastryother shapes, shapes, using using pastryThe cutters. cutters.

JASMIN -- Plant Plant corlt.al.nU:lg containing JASMIN

a powerfully scented substance which is is used in oriental used in oriental

cookery and confectionery. which

JAY. csAt - Bird regarded as a delicacy when it is young. The fully grown birds may
also be eaten, but they must be boiled before roasting. These jays differ from the
jays of
North America. European jays have a pinkish-brown body,
white rump, black tail, white patch on wings, black and white crown feathers, blue
and black wing coverts.

jelly is, JELLY. GELÉE cELfo -- A A jelly is, first first of of aU, all, a a c1ear
clear meat or I1sh fish meat or JELLY. stock which which solidifies solidffies when
gelatinous when cold, cold, by by virtue virtue of of the the gelatinous stock
substances contained contained in in il. it. substances jellies were In former
former times, times, meat fish jellies meat and and fish were prepard with with In
jellies are hart's homo horn. Nowadays, Nowadays, these these jellies are prepared
in a more hart's natural way, way, by by including includinggelatinous bones in the
the stock orby stock or natural gelatinous bones by quantity of gelatine ta adding
a a quantity of gelatine preparation to il. it. It It is is this this preparation
which was was once called aspic. once called Gelatine should should not not be used
used ta excess in to excess in the the preparation of of Gelatine jellies. Whenever
possible it meat jeJlies. Whenever possible it should should be left out out
altoaltomeat gether, and possible wbere and this this is is possible where the the
stock stock is is made made from from gether, naturally gelatinous parts of of the
the meat., meat, su such as veal veal knuckles knuckles naturally ch as and
calves'feet, poultry. rind, and and poultry. and feet, fresh bacon rind, In name
jelly given ta preserve, made is given to a a preserve, ln jam-making, jam-making,
the the name jelly is juice and from sugar, which, and sugar, which, by by a a
carerul careful control control of of from fruit fruit juice temperature cooking,
is the required contemperature in io cooking, is reduced reduced to to the required
consistency. Jelly Jelly may quinces, currants, made from apples currants, apples
sistency. may be be made from quinces, and (see JAMS containing pectin JAMS AND AND
JELJELand other other fruits fruits containing pectin (see LrES). LIES). Certain
sweets These are Certain sweets are are also also callod called jellies. jellics.
These are made made from from various a variable various fruit fruit juices with
with sugar and and a variable quantity of of gelatine gelatine added, or or made
made by by the old old method, method, with with calf's calf's foot jelly. jelly.
Jellies Jellies are are also also made made from from fresh fresh and and dried
dried vegetables, vegetables, and and cereals. cereals. These These are are mainly
used used as as invalid invalid foods. foods. Recipes for for given them them are
are giveo further further on on in this this section section and and elsewhere
elsewhere in this this volume. volume. Clarificatian Clarification ofjellies.
ofjellies. Jelly Jelly stocks stocks must must always always be be clarified
clarified to to ensure ensure perfect perfcct transparency, whether whether they
they have have a a meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable base, base, and
and after they have have been been prepared according according to ta the the
instructions instructions and and have have been reduced (with or without without
gelatine) gelatine) to to the the desired desired consistency. consistency.
Instructions Instructions for for clarification clarification ofjelly of jel1y
stocls stocks are are given given under under ASPIC. ASPIC. Methods Methods for for
clarifying meat, meat, fish fish and and vegetable vegetable stocks stocks are are
also also grven given in in the article article on on CULINARY CULIN AR Y METHODS.
METHODS. Chopped Cbopped jelly. crrfr GELÉE rncrrn HACHÉE - Chopped Chopped meat
meat or or fish fish jelly jelly is tS used used as as a a gamish for for cold cold
dishes. dishes. To To obtain obtain the the best best results, results, jelly plaoe
on place the the on a a cloth c10th which whieh has has bee,n been dipped dipped in
in cold cold water, water, wrung wrung out out thoroughly and and spread spread out
out on On the the table. table. Chop Chop the the jelly jelly with with a a large
large knife. It Il must must be he arranged arranged round round the the dish dish
with with a a spoon spoon and and not, oot., as as is ÎS often often done, done,
squeezed squeezed through through a a forcing-bag. Treated Treated in in the the
latter latter way, way, the the jelly jelly tends tends to to lose lose its its
colour and and becomes bec ornes cloudy. Set Set pieces in iD ielly. jelly.
ArrELErs AITELETS oe DE cerfo GELÉE - These set set pieces, pieces, which were were
much much used used in in former fonner times times to to enhance enhance the the
appearance of of a a cold eold dish, dish, have have now now almost almost
disappeared, disappeared, although, ",,,"vUj::,.I.', on on occasions, occasions,
they they still still appear appear as as a a feature fea ture of ofa a cold cold
buffet. buffet. Jelly Jelly hiaryIes. triangles. cno0roNs CROÛTONS ns DE cfrm GÉLEE
- These These cro0tons croûtons or or
518 5J8

MEAT JELLIES. JELLIES. GELÉES crrEss DE vTANDE DE VIANDEMEAT poun GELÉE jelly
stock. Meat jelly stock. FONDS FoNDs POUR crr6r DE op VIANDE vreNon - InfteMeat
gredients. For For 51i 5 litres quarts) of ofjelly: gredients. tres (5| quarts)
jelly: Nourishing ingredienlS. (41b.) (leg), ingredients. 2 2 kg. ke. (4} beef
(leg) kg. Nourishing lb.) bœf , 1t kg. (3* lb.) lb.) knuckle knuckle of (31 lb.) of
veal, veal, kg. kg. (3t lb.) veal veal and and beef beef bon bones (Ji es sawn in
pieces, 3 in small small pieces, (boned and 3 calves' calves' feet feet (boned and
blanched, blanched, sawn with the the bones bones ground), 250 250 g. (t lb.) bacon
bacon rlods. rinds. wîth $ lb.) Aromatic ingredients. ingredients. 2 or 3large
carrots, 2 2 medium medium onions, Aromatic onions, 2 leeks, 3 stalks leeks, 3
stalks of celery, celery, bouquet bouquet of of herbs, salt salt and and pepper. 2
(9 quarts) quarts) water. water. Liquid. S| litres (9 Put the (tied with the beef,
the the veal veal (tied with string) and and the the bones in a bones in Put a pan
and brown slightly in and brown in butter. butter. Transfer Transfer the the rneat
meat and and bones to to a a large large stockpot, brown brown them thern further
further with with the the carrots, onions, leeks and celery. Pour in water. in the
water. carrots, pan in Rinse the the pan in which which the the meat meat and and
bones bones were were first Rinse first browned with with a a liule little water,
water, and and add add this this to to tbe the ",,,,n.".",","'" ingredients browned
in the the stockpot. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, skim, and and add add
the ca calves' in Ives' feet and bacon bacon rinds, rinds, tied tied with with
string, string, and and the the bouquet of feet and herbs. Season. Season. Simmer
Simmer gently for about 5 to 6 hours. herbs, Strain this this stock stock through
muslin muslin or or a a fine fine strainer. strainer. To Strain jelly, clariff it
tum it into aspic jelly, it in the usual way. poun GELÉE Chicken jelly stock. FONDS
FoNDs POUR crlfs DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE - Use preparation as for ordinary jelly
adding, the same same method of of preparation over ingredients, a a pullet which
has been over and above the basic Ingredients, browned oven or, alternatively,
browned in the oyen alternatively, lf kg. (31lb.) lb.) chicken giblets, also
browned in advance in the oyen. oven. carcase and gib!ets, When intended as a
garnistr for galanWhen this fuis jelly jelly stock is intcnded as a tine, tine, the
galantine takes the place of of the pullet and should be cookod in the stock.
cooked stock. Fi$ jelly stock. stock FoNDs FONDS poun POUR csr,Er GELÉE DE porssoN
POISSON - This stock is as ooncentrated concentrated fish is made in in the the
same same way way as fish stock stock (see (see STOCKS) from STOCKS) from the
following following basic ingredients. Ingredients. For lb.) For 5litres 5 litres
(5f (51 quarts):500 . 500 lb.) fish fisb bones bones and trimmings trimmings of of
turbot, turbot, brill or sole sole (U.S. flounder flounder or or haddock) haddock)
or or an equivalent quantity quantity of of fish fish such as as whiting, gurnet,
gumet, w@ver, etc., 2 medium weever, etc., medium onions onions (finely (finely
sliced), mushroom mushroom peelings, celery, parsley parsley roots, roots, thyme,
laurel. la ure 1. This stock may may be be made made with water but it it is better
made made wrthfishfuntet (see (sec FUMET) FUMET) prepared prepared in in advance.
advanœ. Fi$ jelly stock stock with witb red roo wine. wine. FoNDs FONDS poun POUR
csrfn GELÉE os DE polssoN AU vrN VTN RoucE ROUGE - This This stock is Îs used used
in cooking the tbe POISSON AU various various fish fish served served in red red
wine wine jelly jelly (salmon (salmon trout, trout, brown brown tfout, trout, carp,
etc.). etc.). It It may may be prepared prepared like like ordinary ordinary fish
fish jelly, jelly, with with the the same same basic basic ingredients ingredîents
and and flavouringg flavourmgs, to 10 which which are are added added equal parts
of Fish fumer and Fisn of red red wine wine (Burgundy (Burgundy or or Claret)
Claret) and fumet (see

(51

ll Il

l|

g.(l

FUMET).

Grme jelly stock. stock. FoNDs FONDS por.rn POUR csr,6E GELÉE DE DE crBrER GIBll'.R
- The The same same method method is used as as that that given givcn for for
ordinary ordinary jelly. jelly. Use Use the the same same basic basic ingredients,
ingredients, adding adding about about lf 1t kg. kg. (3 (3 lb.) lb.) game game
carcases carcases and and trimmings trimmings which which have have been been
previously previously browned browned in in the the oven. oven. Add Add celery,
celery, tiyme, bay bay leaf leaf and and 8 8 to to l0 10 juniper juniper berries
benies to to the the usual usua] flavourings. fl"'ul'\" .. ,,~a,, White White jelly
jelly stock. stock. FoNDs FONDS poun POUR cst,fo GELÉE BLANcHE BLANCHE - Made Made
from from the tbe same same basic basic ingredients ingredients and and flavourings
ftavourings as as ordinary ordinary jelly, jelly, but but without without browning
browning the the meat meat or or bones. bones.

-
VEGETABLE VEGET ABLE JELLIES. JELLIES. certns GELÉES ps DE rfcuMEsLÉGUMES - These
Thesejellies, jellies, which which are are prepared prepared from from various
various dried dried vegetables, vegetables, cereals cereals
JELLY JELLY
particularly as and as invalid invalid foods. and fresh fresh herbs, herbs, are are
used used particularly Pectose is a In unripe a constituent of all aU these these
vegetables. In fruit and vegetables, it is present state but, present in an
insoluble state as or vegetable ripens, ripens, it it changes changes into as the
the fruit fruit or into soluble
pectin. Fresh GELÉE on DE rivrs FÈvES rndcsrs FRAîCHES - Put Fresb bean bean jelly.
jelly. crr6r Put ripe, shelled a Iittle little water, water, cover in a a saucepan.
saucepan. Add Add a shelled beans beans in tightly, and cook. From From time time
to time, time. while they are cooking, add a little little water so that the liquid
level in the pan remains remains constant. constant. When When the beans are
cooked, sieve thern. them. Press the vegetables aU the the juice, juice, which
makes a jelly with tables gently to extract all a jelly a very high albumen
content. content. In In the the same sa me way, jellies jellies can can be be
extracted extracted from from small small kidney beans, beans, French (string)
(string) beans, green peas and various kidney other fresh fresh vegetables.
vegetables. other pArs DE poMMEs - 'Choose good, sound, Apple paste jelly. PÂTE oE
POMMES sound, - 'Choose good, cooking apples, peel them cooking ove cores. them and
rem remove cores. Put Put into into a a pan with with water, water, and cook, cook,
turning with with a a wooden spoon spoon from to time, until time to until they
have have been softened. softened. Remove, Remove, strain strain juioe into a the
juice a bowlleaving bowl leaving the apples apples in in the the sieve sieve until
cold, cold, then rub the pulp through a a sieve. Put over over the the tire fire
and and cook cook pan into down by half. Remove Rernove from from heat, transfer
from from the pan into precaution which an an earthenware or glazed china bowl a
precaution $a;zed china -a cannot be stressed too much. 'Clari$ the 'Clarify the
same same amount of sugar, cook it it to to small small crack crack pan off the
degree (see SUGAR), take pour in take the the pan the tire, fire, pour in the the
apple pulp, stir the mixture thoroughly with a a wooden spoon and place on on a a
low low heat. heat. Allow to to heat until until the the mixture shivers very
slightly. you begin slightly. Stir all all the the time until until you begin to to
see see the bottom bottom of the pan. Then proceed to pour into moulds as as
(below.' (Le (I* Confiseur moderne.) described described (below.' pArr D'ABRICOTS
jelty. PÂTE paste jeUy. Apricot paste 'Choose sound, o'lBnlcors -- 'Choose sound,
ripe ripe put into a apricots, stone stone them, put a pan with water, water, stand
stand over over the fire fire and, and, as as soon soon as as boiling is
established, established, remove remove and and drain. drain. Rub Rub through
through a a sieve sieve at at once once to to extract extract ail all pulp,
collecting collecting it it in in a a bowl. bowl. Throw Throw away away the the
skin. skin. Weigh Weigh the pulp and boil down by half. Take out of the pan and
transfer into an earthenware earthenware or china china bowl. Clariff the same same
quantity of sugar as (see of as you have pulp and cook to small crack degree (see
crack degree SUGAR). it, stirring with a wooden spoon. SUGAR). Pour the pulp into
intoit, stirringwithawoode,n spoon. When the When the mixture is the pan on is
smooth, stand stand the on low low heat aga in, stirring again, stirring all the
time until the bottom bottom of the pan can can be be seen, then remove from the
heat. 'Put moulds mou Ids of heart-shaped, etc.) of different different shapes
shapes (round, heart-shaped, on a tinned metal sheet, fill them with the apricot
and sheet, fil! and sugar confection, confection, smoothing the surface surface
with knife. When smoothing the When the with a a knife. mou Ids are filled, dust
them with sugar and put them moulds therr into a a hot drying-oven. Two days la ter
take the confections out of later of them out onto a the mould, turn them sieve,
dust with sugar, leave a sieve, drying-oven for a in a a drying-oven a day, day,
then store in tins with well-fitting Iids, placing placing the confections in lids,
in rows and and putting a a sheet sheet of of white paper between (I*
'-',,,,,,,.,,,,., white between each each layer.' layer.' (Le
Confisanr ,''VU"",,,::. moderne.) Cherry paste paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PÂTE DE
Cherry os CERISEScERIsEs-'Choose very ripe red cherries. Remove Remove stalks
stalks and stones, putting the cherries into as you do so. Then transfer thern into
a pan and put a bowl as over the fire. Bring them to the boil, stirring with a
wooden through a spoon. Rub through a sieve sieve to extract ail all the pulp,
collecting collecting a bowl. Boil down by half. the pulp and it in a half, weigh
welgh the and pour into the same a china bowl. Clarify the same weight of sugar,
sugar, cook to bail ball degree (see SUGAR), add add the cherry pulp and and
proceed as jelly. (Le Conin the the reclpe for described in for Apricot paste
jelly.' fiseur moderne.) moderne.) fiseur PÂTE DE DE VERJUS - 'Pick good Grape
paste paste jelly. rArn Gnpe good green grapes vnRrusbasin with off the the bunches
bunches and and put into off into a a basin with a a little little water. Bring on
a a high flame. flame. When the the grapes swell to the boil on swell and and
burst, burst, strain the the juice into a a bowl, bowl, leaving the strain the
grapes to drip. Then Then them through through a a sieve, rub them collecting the
sieve, collecting the pulp in in a a bowl. Put Put it it into a a pan, set set on
on a a low low flame, flame, boil down by half into half and and weigh. weigh.
amount of ClarifY the the same same amount Clariff of sugar, sugar, cook to small
baIl ball degree degree (see SUGAR), SUGAR), take take off the the heat, heat, pour
in (see the grape pulp and and in the add 100 100 g. g. (4 oz.,l oz., cup) apple
pulp per 450 add g. (l 1b.,2 cups) 450 g. cups) as described grape pulp. pulp. Mix
Mix well and proceed as grape described above.' above.' (Le Confueur Confiseur
moderne.) moderne.) (I* Greengage paste paste jelly. pArn PÂTE ne DE RETNES-cLAUDEs
REINES-CLAUDES - 'Pick the Greengage the - 'Pick gn:enga:ges when when they they
are are very very ripe. Stone, greengages into a Stone, put into a pan with a a
little water, water, and and bring to to the boil. boil. Strain the with the juice,
leaving the the greengages greengages on on the sieve sieve to to cool. cool. When
When they they are are rub them them through through the the sieve, the pulp cold,
rub cold, pulp and, weigh the sieve, weigh and, amount of of sugar, proceed as
allowing the the same same amount allowing sugar, proceed as described described
(Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) ab ove.' (k above.' PÂTE oe DE
MIRABELLES-'Choose MIRABELLES- 'Choose sound Mirabelle paste pastejeUy. jelly. pArn
Mirabdle sound put into into cold cold water. mirabelles, peel, stone stone them
them and and put mirabelles, water. Place Place pan over the tire, stirring with a
wood en spoon them in a the,m in a pan over the fire, stirring with a woode,n spoon
until uetil

DESSERT (SWEET) (SWEET) JELLIES. JELLIES. cELfEs GELÉES DESSERT

D'ENTREMETS D'ENrRErrdErs

jelly.

Sweet jellies jellies are made with a base of powdered gelatine or French leaf leaf
gelatine gelatine dissolved dissolved in water or (rarely) (rarely) from calf's
French foot jelly plus sugar and water. This This base is flavoured either foot
with liqueur, a dessert wine, or a fruit juice. For liqueur jellies, the liqueur is
added after clarifying the 9 dl. jelly

I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant l| (l| pints, 2 pints) base.

cup) liqueur is used to

in the the usual usual way, flavoured flavoured with liqueur or fruit juice and in

Jellks made frm fuicy fruits. csrf;Es DE FR(nrs AeuEr.x Use lemons, lemons,
oranges, tangerines, pineapple, grapes, etc. The Use of the fruit is addd added to
the dissolvod dlssol'ved gelatine. filtered juice juice of filtered GELÉE A À ul LA
rrroscovrrn MOSCOVITEMuscovite jelly. jeHy. cnrfn Muscovite - This jelly is made

poured poured into a hinged mould, called caUed a 'Muscovite' Mllscoviite' mould,
mould, preparation of which must must be be completely completely airtight,
airtight, as as in the preparation which ice cream. cream. ice The special special
feature feature of of this this jelly jelly is that it is is covered covered with a
a The of frost. frost. thin coating coating of thin Red fruit jdlies. jellies.
cprfss GELÉES DE DE FRrJrrs FRUITS RoucEs ROUGES - Cherries, Cherries, Red
strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants, redcurrants, etc. etc. Only Only very ripe
strawberries, Put the the fruit through through a fine sieve. Add fruit should be
be used. Put fruit between I 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t
cup) and 3 3 dl. (* (t pint, between li cups) cups) water water to to ! t litre
litre (scant (scant pint, 2f 2i cups) cups) juice, juice, according ac(~Or,dl[tg lf
to the the pectin pectin content con ten t of of the the fruit. to Filter this this
fruit fruit juice, juice, and and add add it in two stages stages to the calf's
Filter or the the gelatine, dissolved dissolved in advance, advance, to ensure
ensure the foot jelly jelly or foot right consistency. consistency. right GELÉE A À
r.l LA nussn RUSSE - This sweet is made like Russian jelly. jelly. crrfE Russian
other jellies, jellies, with with various various flavourings. flavourings. It is
whisked on ice other until it it begins begins to to set, poured into a mould mould
as as quickly as as until put on on ice ice to to set set completely. completely.
Turn Turn out out on on a a napand put possible, and kin. GELÉES DE DE FRtnrs
FRUITS A À Novr,ux NOYAUX - Apricots, Stone fruit. fruit. cer6rs Stone nectarines,
peaches, peaches, plums, pl ums, etc., etc., are are often used used as as a
garnish nectarines, with different different fruit fruit jellies. jellies. with The
jelly jelly itself itself may may also also be be made made from these these
fruits. The Dip the the fruit fruit in in boiling boiling water water and peel.
peel. Cook slowly in Dip Make the the jelly jelly from the syrup. Leave Leave in in
the the syrup until until cold. cold. Make syrup. in the usual usual way. way.
syrup and and clarify in syrup GeneraHy, fruit jellies jellies should be be
flavoured flavoured with kirsch, kirsch, Generally, or some sorne other other
liqueur. liqueur. maraschino or maraschino GELÉE DE DE FRUrrs FRUITS A À r.e LA
suEoorse SUÉDOISE - Fruit Swedisb fruit fruit jelly. csrfo Swedish - Fruit it is
put put in in the the mould, mould, with various various jelly, garnished after it
of fruit fruit which which have have been been cooked cooked in in syrup syrup and
and kinds of thoroughly drained. drained. thoroughly GELÉES lux A UX vINs VINS
DIvERs DIVERS - Champagne, Various wine winejellies. jeUies. crrnus Various - Cham
pagne, Frontignan, Madeira, Madeira, Marsala, Marsala, port, sherry, sherry, etc.
etc. 3 3 dl. dl. Frontignan, (1 pint, pint, lf li cups) wine wine should should be
be usod to to every every 7 7 dl. (lf pints, pints, (* li pints) pints) jelly jelly
base. l|
PASTEJELLIES JELLIES (Confectionery). (Confectionery). pAmsPÂTES- These These
confections confections PASTE by mixirig mixirlg fruit fruit or or flower flower
pulp pulp with with sugar. sugar. are made made by are

519 519
JERBOA
they are cooked. eooked. Drain, leave the mirabelles in a sieve until cold, eold,
then then rub them through. through. Boil down the quantity by half and a china
bowl. Weigh the pulp, and pour from the pan into a clarify cJarîfy the same amount
amount of sugar and cook eook to small smaU crack degree (see SUGAR). Pour the pulp
into it, stirring with with a wooden spoon to mix, mix, and and proceed proceed to
make the jellies jellies as jelly.' (Le (I-e Confiseur described deseribed in the
recipe recipe for Apricot Apricot paste pastejelly.' Confiseur moderne.) moderne.)
Peach Peach paste paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PÂTE ns DE ptcnss-'Proceed PÉlCHES-
'Proceed as above above using usiag the following following ingredients:
ingredients: 2 kg. kg. (4 (4 lb.) peaches and and 11 kg. (3 lb., 6 cups) sugar.'
(Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) Pear poste paste jelly. jelly. rAru
PÂTE DE DE polRrs POIRES - 'Prepare as Apple Apple paste paste jelly, (Le Confiseur
Confueur moderne.) moderne.) jelly, wrng using the pulp of of juicy juiey pears.'
pcars.' (Le Quince paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PÂTE or DE colNcs COINGS - 'Choose very
very ripe @ince quinces, guinees, cut into ioto quarters, remove the skins and
pips, pips, put into into a pan with water and place place over over the fire to
soften. soften. Drain, and for Apricot paste and proceed proeeed as as described
descdbcd in in the the recipe recipe for paste jelly.' jelly.' (Le Confiseur
Moderne.) Confiseur Moderne.\ Raspberry paste jelly. pAre PÂTE pn DE FRAMBoIsFs
FRAMBOISES - 'Choose ripe Raspberry raspberries, raspberries, rub rub through
through a sieve sieve to extract elttract the pulp. Put over the the fire and and
boil down the pulp pulp by half. Weigh, add the same same amount (by (by weight) of
sugar sugar cooked cooked to to ball ball degree degree (see SUGAR), and proceed
procced as described described above. SUGAR), 'Strawberry 'Strawberry jellies
jellies are made made in the same sa me way as raspberry jellies.' jellies.' (Le
Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) Violet poste paste jelly. jelly. pAre PÂTE
pn DE vIoLErrEs VIOLETlCS - 'Take I 1 kg. kg. (2 lb.) clean violets, reduce reduce
to pulp pulp by bruising bruising in a mortar and add the juioe juice of of
2lemons. 2 lemons. the 'Cook 'Cook 1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb., lb., 4 4 cups) eups) sugar
sugar to to ball ball degree degree (see SUGAR), SUGAR), take take the the pan pan
offthe off th.e fire, the, add the the bruised bruiscd violets violets and (1 lb.,
2 cups) cups) apple apple jelly, jelly, mix, mîx, and make the jellies jellies as
500 g. (l dcscribed above. above. described Various Various other other flowers,
fiowers, such such as orange orange blossom, bJossom. roses, roses, etc., can can
be made into jellies jellies in a similar manner.' manner.' (Le Confiseur Confiseur
moderne.) moderne.\

l|

Fned Jemsalem Jerusalem artichokes. articbokes. TOPINAMBOURS EN FRIToTFRITOT - Cut

Fried ToprNAMBorJRs EN in butter. Dip artichokes in thick slices and cook them in
the artichokes batter and fry in smoking-hot smoking-hot fat or oil. in light
batter Purée of of Jemsalem Jerusalem artichokes. articbokes. punnn PURÉE DE
TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURShrr6e artichokes, cut them in thin slices sliccs and
simmer thern them Peel the artichokes, little water in a covered in butter and a
little covered pan. Rub through a tbis puree purée and add to it a a sufficient
quantity of sieve. Heat this potatoes to give give it the desired desired
consistency. consistency. Add a few tablecream and spoons boiling hot milk or cream
and 2 or 3 tablespoons fresh butter. butter. Salad of of Jerusalem Jerusalem
ertichokes articbokes. s{r,lnn SALADE DE TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURSSalad Made like
Potato Po/ato salad(see sa/ad (see SALAD). SALAD). Soutllé of Jemsalem Jerusalem
artichokes. artichokes. sourrl6 souFFLÉ DE DE ropINAMTOPINAMSoufl6 BouRs BOURS -
Using puree purée of Jerusalem artichoke, artichoke, made made like Potato soufii
soufflé (see (sec SOUFFLE). SOUFFLÉ).

-
-

ABDELAVIS - This melon, melon, which ABDELAVTS originally originally came from
Egypt, has sweet, sweet, juicy juicy and succulent succulent flesh fiesh which
which is much valued as it quenches guenches thirst. Its 115 seeds seeds are used
used for making sedative sedative and and tranquilising tranguilising drinks, and
and its ils

JERUSALEM MELON.

flesh fiesh is is used used in the manufacture manufacture of of excellent

excellent ices, ices, bombes, bom bes, etc.

It n is eaten like like melon.

JESSE - Fish found found in almost all al! the the rivers of Europe, Europe, in
almost rather rather similar in shape sh.ape to the carp. It turns turns yellowish
when cooked. It It is fairly fairly delicate delicate but has many many bones bones
and is is cooked in the same same way way as as carp carp (q.v.). (q.v.).
JÉSUITEsmall pastry pastI)' made made of ofleft-overs of Flaky Flaky pastry
pastry .ffSUnf left-overs of - A small
dough (see DOUGH).

iaches) Roll out the dough. Cut it into lengths 15 cm. (6 inches) Spread half the
lengths with almond almond paste, and cover wide. Spread remaining lengths.
Sprinkle Sprinkle with praline praline (q.v.). (q.v.). Cut with the remaining Bake
in a moderate oven. oven. into triangles. Bake

JERBOA. JERBOA.

cERBoISE GERBOISE - Small Small rodent rodent about about the the size size of of a
squirrel. squirre!. It It is to to be found in all ail parts of of Europe, Europe,
and is prepared pared for for the the table table like Uke squirrel (q.v.). (q.v.).
Found Found in in southwestern western U.S.A. U.S.A. and Mexico, Mexîco, under
under the name name of of kangaroo-rat kangaroo-rat or or pouched pouched mouse.
mouse.

.fESUS JÉSUS - Type Type of pork-liver pork-liver sausage sausage made in

Switzerland Switzerland and Franche-Comt6. Franche-Comté. It IL is Îs also also
called called Jisu. Jésu. The Jisu Jésu de and Mortemt Morteau is particularly
particularly well known. known.
JOHANNISBEERKUCHEN (German cookery) - A A GerJOHAhINISBEERKUCHEN redcurrant tart.
(See (Sec TARTS, Fruit Fruit tart d à l'allemande.) l'allemande.) man redcurrant
JOHANNISBERG - A village village of of Hesse-Nassau, Hesse-Nassau, in Prussia,
Prussia, JOHAI\INISBERG where two two special special vines are grown, the large
and the small where white wine is made made from the grapes grapes Riesling. A
famous dry white of these these vines. vines. of

JERUSALEM JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. ropIN.auBouR TOPTNAMBOtffi - Plant originating in

North America and imported into France at the beginning beginning of of the the
seventeenth seventeenth century. Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes, artichokes, also
known and poires known as artichauts artichauts fu du Canada and poires de
terre,were terre, were not much mueh liked at the the start, but were established,
like the
potato, potato, by Parmentier. Parmentier. They They are at their their best best
on the borderborderline hne of of winter winter and spring. Jerusalem Jerusalem
artichokes artichokes are are firm firm in in consistency. consistency. They
resemble resemble real rcal artichokes artichokes to some extent in flavour ftavour
and may be be substituted substituted for thern them in in certain certain
preparations. preparations. They They have have a pleasant pleasant taste, but but
one one that soon soon palls. palis. Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes I à
Itnnglrrise. l'anglaise. TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURS A À t'^a.NGL'ANGLAISE LAISE -
Peel Peel the the artichokes, artichokes, divide divide in quarters and cut them
them to look look like like pigeons' eggs. Blanch Blanch lightly lightly in salted
water water and cook cook gently gently in î.n butter. Season, and stir in in a few
tablespoons tablespoons of of rather thn thin Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see
SAUCE). Simmer for a few minutes. Serve in a deep deep dish. dish. Jerusalem
artichokes artichokes in in butter. butter. ToprNAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURS AU AU BELTRRE
BEURREJenrsalem Cut to to look look like pigeons'eggs. pigeons' eggs. Cook in
butter butter like like Chdteau Château potatoes POT A TOES). po/atoes (see
POTATOES). Jerusalem JerusaJem artichokes articbokes à la la crbme. crème.
TopINAMBoTJRs TOPINA..'.iBOURS A À LA cRiltc CRÈME - Cut Cut to look look like like
pigeons' pigeons' eggs eggs and and simmer sîmmer gently in butter. When they they
are are almost cooked, cooked, cover with boiling boiJjng fresh fresh cream cream
and finish finish cooking cooking as as slowly slowly as as possible. possible.
Season. Season. At At the the last moment moment add add a few few tablespoons
tablespoons of of fresh fresh cream. cream. Jerusalem artichokes artichokes d àh la
crime crème may also be be preparod prepared with Jerusalem rather rather thin thin
Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE).

JOHN JOHN DORY.

French as and poule as dorie, dorée, Jemt-Dori Jean-Doré and poule de de mer. mer.
It Il is is very oddly shaped, shaped, oval in in form, and flat, fiat, with a
large large spiny spiny head. oddly Its ILs skin is is thick thîck and and it is is
covered covered with with very very small scales. The The first first dorsal fin
consists consists of of nine nîne spines spin es held held together together by by
which ends ends in in a long long filament. filament. On the the flanks flanks is a
a membrane which

sArNr-prERRE SAINT-PIERRE -

Fish, also also known known to to the Fish,

round round blackish blackish mark, mark, surrounded surrounded by a light grey
grey circle. ftesh of of the John Dory Dory is is delicate and and rivals rivais
turbot The flesh U .S.A. the Atlantic Atlantic fish, fish, the porgy porgy (called
scup and sole. In U.S.A. in New New England), Engiand), could could be be used used
for Jobn John Dory Dory recipes. It may be cooked whole, wbole, grilled, braised or
poached poached in a court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), but most most often it is îs
filleted filleted and cooked court-bouillon the same sa me way as fillets of
ofbrill turbot (q.v.) or sole in the brill (q.v.), turbot (q.v.). (g.v.). The John
John Dory Dory is also used used as an ingredient ingrcdient of
bouillabouilla(g.v.). baisse (q.v.). baisse Fillets of John John Dory Dory Pierre
Ctapelle. Chapelle. FILETS FILETS DE DE sArNrSAINTFlllets pIERRE PIERRE pIERRE
PIERRE cHApELLE CHAPELLE - Fillet a raw medium-sized medium·sized John John Season
with with salt sait and pepper pepper and coat with egg and Dory. Season
breadcrumbs. Use Use the skin and and bones bones to to prepare prepare a white
white breadcrumbs. wine fish fish stock. stock. Use Use this tbis stock for for a
rice ricc pilaf pilaf made made of of 100 100 g. g. wine (4 oz., oz., t ! cop) cup)
rice ricc tossed tossed in in butter butter with with chopped onions on ions and in
the the stock stock for 20 20 minutes. minutes. In In another another pot pot cook
cook 50 g. cooked in
520
JUNIPER WINE JUNIPER
DE VIANDE vIANDE This is is extracted by by putting Meat luice. JUs DE Meat juice.
JUS - This juice grilled beef a special special press. The juice slices of lightly
grilled beef into a a cup cup standing in in a from the press is is collected in in
a dripping from bowl of hot water. JUs D'ORANGE, D'oRANGE, or lemon lemon juices.
Orange, Seville orange or Seville orange Orange, iuices. JUS juices have have many
many uses uses in in the BIGARADE, CITRON cITRoN BIGARADE, - These juices They are
are exrn pdtisserie. kitchen, in in confectionary confectionary and and in kitchen,
pâtisserie. They if a the fruit. fruit. The flavour flavour is is enhanced if
tractod by squeezing the tracted grated rind is added before straining. straining.
little grated D'ANANAs fresh pineapple Pineapple juice. rus D'ANANAS Pound fresh
Pineapple juice. JUS - Pound pounding, mix in a few few tablespoons tablespoons
pulp in a mortar. While pounding, juice, plain through muslin. This juice, plain
sugar syrup. Strain the pulp through juices, is preparation of fruit juices, is
used used in in the the preparation like aIl all other other fruit like desserts.
desserts. juices. JUS Made from strawDE FRUITS ROUGES noucnsstrawJUs DE Red fruit
juices. -·Made Rub the or cherries. cherries. Rub the raw berries, raspberries,
raspberries, redcurrants or through a fine sieve. fruit through

John Dory

(2 OZ., oz., * (2 t cup) chopped onions gently in butter. Add 4 to 6 large squeezed
to to rem remove seeds and large tomatoes, tomatoes, peeled, peeled, squeezed ove
seeds chopped. Season with salt, Season with salt, pepper, garlic and and 1 I
teaspoon teaspoon
curry powder. Cook together for 20 minutes. Cook the fillets curry of fish in
butter. Serve of Serve on top of the pilaf. Surround with the tomatoes.

JOINTING. The action up meat, n6rnglcn action of cutting up JOINTING. DÉPEÇAGE -

The poultry, etc. (See CARVING.) JONCHÉE - See CHEESE. JONCHEE _ CHEESE. JUDAS-
TREE. also grows in JUDA$TREE. GAINIER ceINrm. Judean tree which also - Judean
southem Europe, North North America strongly southern Europe, America and
Its.strongly Asia. Its and Asia. scented flowers are pickled in vinegar like
capers. JUDRU JUDRU saucisson made at Chagny in - A very short, thick saucisson
Burgundy, Burgundy. JUICE. JUICE. JUSrus- The French French use the tennjus termjas
in a somewhat somewhat wider sense than the EngIish English 'juice'. Juice'. Jus is
used: ,fus 1. l. As As in in English, of the juice squeezed squeezed out of
foodstuffs, juice, orange juice, whether animal or vegetable, vegetable, e.g. e.g.
herbaI herbal juice, lemon lemon juice, meat juice, etc. juices of the 2. Of Of the
gravy of roast made by diluting the juices of a roast roasting pan or dripping pan
(in the case of spit roasts), with cIear en boilclear stock, stock, water or any
other suitable suitable liquid, and th then ing it until aU all the goodness in the
pan has been absorbed into the stock. juice, extracted pressing slices 3. extracted
by slices of lightly 3. Of meat juice, by pressing grilled beef in a special press.
press. This juice is grilled a tonic. is taken taken as a (q.v.) or brown 4. 4. Of
coulis clear, of brown stock, thickened or c1ear, coulis (q.v.) (See STOCKS,
various various kinds kinds of veal. (See of meat, meat, especially especially
veal. Veal Veal stock.) juices are Fruit very valuable in in dietitics. Fruit and
and vegetable vegetable juices are very Fruit juice is Fruit juice containing
vitamins, excellent beverage beverage containing is an an excellent mineraIs fruit.
minerals and retaining the the diuretic qualities of whole fruit. and retaining In
fact, fact, it has has ail all the assets of the latter without its disadvantages
(e.g. indigestibility). Fruit juice is given to babies who cannot digest milk, or
or as as a vitamin deficiency deficiency in certain a means of of compensating
compensating for the vitamin tinned post-operative patients patients and and
concontinned milks. milks. Invalids, Invalids, post-operative valescents ail diets.
have fruit or vegetable juices in their diets. all must have juice is particularly
suitable Vegetable for those those who Vegetable juice is particularly suitable for
cannot raw vegetables or cooked cooked green vegetables cannot tolerate raw and,
people who for people who find find cellulose cellulose inand, generally speaking,
speaking, for digestible. pourrms This is Applejuice. apple pulp. is made from
apple Apple juice. JUS JUs DE POMMES(See APPLE, Apple Apple pectin.) Herb Heft
juices. JUS D'HERBEs VERTES vERTEs -- Made from various raw JUs D'HERBES
(watercress, chervil, parsley, herbs parsley, tarragon, poundod herbs (watercress,
etc.) pounded tarragon, etc.) in a mortar and and strained strained through muslin.
Jujube a. Flower; b. b. Fruit a.

Syrian of Syrian is of JUJUBE The fruit of of the jujube tree tree which which is
JUJLJBE - The grows in including the the south south of origin. origin. It It grows
in wann warm c1imates, climates, including of is about about the size size of of an
olive, covered France. France. The ovoid fruit is mild with a smooth, red skin.
skin. The pulp is yellowish, mild smooth, leathery, red and sweet. sweet. It has a
a long stone. stone. jujubes are They are are Dried Dried jujubes to sweeten
sweeten medicines. medicines. They are used used to usod in in infusions, soothing
and chest, chest, and and are are used soothing to to the the throat and paste,
etc. form of decoctions and te, etc. and in in the fonn of pas

JULIENNE Term used JULIENNE used in in French cookery to designate: designate: -

Tenn l. A cIear 1. clear vegetable soup soup made from from clear clear consommé.
consomm6. To To shredded vegetables this this stock stock is is added added a a
mixture of of finely finely shredded (See cooked cooked very very slowly slowly in
in butter butter until until they they are are tender. tender. (See SOUPS SOUPS AND
AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Consommé Consommi julienne.) 2. 2. Any Any coarsely finely
shredded shredded foodstuffs. Thus Thus one coarsely or or finely may of
chicken,julienne chicken,Tnlienne of of mushrooms, may say say julienne of of
breast of julienne of gherkins, etc. etc. of truffies, truffies, julienne of
gherkins, Talienne of
JUNIPER cnNrivnr -- The The berries berries of of a a bush JLJNIPER BERRIES.
GENrÈVRE gullies. which grows grows wild in woods and and mountain mountain
gullies. in woods Juniper berries are are used used to to add add flavour flavour
to to marinades, marinades, and (sazerkraut, thrushes, as with certain foods
(sauerkraut, as seasoning seasoning with certain foods gin. blackbirds,
distillation of of gin. They are are also also used in the distillation blackbirds,
etc.). etc.). They

(vm DE MediJUNIPER on GENIÈVRE) cemivnn) -- MediWINE. GENEVRETTE cENEvRETTE (VIN

JLTNIPER WINE. (See BEVERAGES, cinal berries. (See BEVERAGES, drink made made from
juniper berries. cinal drink Juniper hippocras.) Juniper hippocras.) to be in This
a wine which used to be made in This name is is also also given to a the Gâtinais
seeds. district from absinthe absinthe and and juniper seeds. Gfltinais district
521 521
JUPITER'S JUPITER'S BEARD BEARD

julietue : first Slicing Slicing vegctables vegetablesjulienne: tirst and and

second second steps steps ((Larousse) Larousse)

JOUBARBE JUPITER'S BEARD. Jot BARBE

plants plants with with fleshy fieshy leaves. leaves. Among these are the houseleek
houseleek or wild artichoke, artichoke, and the the white white stonecrop, which
which is edible, its wild

given to several Name given

leaves being being eaten eaten in in salad. salado leaves

Juniper berries berries Juniper (Rap) (Rap)

(f <i mile) mile) from from Pau. Pau. A A fine fine wine wine is is made made there
there which, which, it is is said, was greatly greatly prized prized by by King
King Henry Henry fV IV of of France. was Legend has has it it that that when the
the king was born, his grandgrandLegend
father, the the King King of of Navarre, Navarre, after after having having rubbed
rubbed the the baby's baby's father, of garlic, garlic, made made him swallow
swallow a a few few drops of lips with with a a clove clove of lips Jurançon. The
The royal royal infant infant having having come come tlrough through this this
Jurangon. bacchic ordeal ordeal very very creditably, creditably, his his
grandfather, grandfather, in a frenzy bacchic of enthusiasm, enthusiasm, cried:
cried: 'You 'Vou are are a real real B6arnais.' Béarnais.' of White Jurangon
Jurançon is is a a full-blooded full-blooded and intoxicating intoxicating wine.
White With age, age, it it acquires acquires a a strong strong flavour flavour of
of Madeira. Madeira. With A red red Jurangon Jurançon is is also also made, made,
but but is is less less popular popular than than the the A white. These These
wines wines are are made made by by mixing mixing the the grapes grapes of of
several several white. different vines vines in in the the vat, vat, bul but,
curiously curiously enough, enough, the the grapes grapes of different the Jurangon
Jurançon vine vine are are not not among among them. them. the

Basses-Pyrénées, I 1 km. JURANÇON - Small Small town town in the Basses-Pyr6nees,

JLJRAI\CON

522 522
moistened with liqueur, liqueur, wine or syrup. fruit such such as as apricots,
Take a selection of of mixed Take a mixed fresh fresh fruit pineapple, raspberries,
melon melon and pineapple, peaches, peaches, strawberries, raspberries, watermelon.
skin the fruit. waterrnelon. Where necessary, skin fruit. Cut it it all aIl up into
small, thick slices slices and place in a bowl pressed into pressed down inco a
bucket of crushed ice. a j litre (seant (scant pint, pint, Champagne, 1 Bring to
the the boil I 1 bottle boUle Champagne, 2f cups) red Bordeaux wine, I scant f cup)
2i 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant! ground pinch of grouod sugar and and a
Madeira, 2 or a pinch or 3 tablespoons sugar Madeira, pour it on iœ ice and and
pour it over over the cinnamon. cinnamon. Chili Chill Ihis this mixture on fruit.
Chili serve. Chill again again and and serve. Kaltschale witr strawberry prr6e.
ret,rscHAle A rA, Kaltscbale l'Vith punrp DE FRArsEsPURÉE FRAISES - Embed a bowl in
crushed ice. Fill it with fruit as as indicated above. Make a a pur6e of of
strawberries as fruit îndicated above. lb., 7 cups) very a fine sieve sieve I kg.
(2i lb., follows: Rub through lhrough a (8 OZ., g. (8 ripe and 225 225 g. oz., 2
cups) cups) redcurrants. ripe strawberries and (lf pints, generous quart) light
Dilute this puree purée with witb I 1 litre (li sugar syrup and! and f bottle
Champagne previously boule '-'"'"'''''<>l~''''' nrp"-,,rll,cl\J brought to the boil
and crulled. chilled. Pour over the fruit and serve chilled.

KALTSCHALE (Russian (Rlissian cookery) -A fruit salad salad liberally -A

KANGAROO. KANGOUROU r,c,NcouRou flesh of of Ihis this Australian The flesh

KANGAROO. - The mammal is soup îs is a a delicacy delicacy in Kangaroo tail in is
edible. edible. Kangaroo mammal tai! soup Germany. It is also sold commercially.
commercially. Gerrnany.
KAcUE KASHA (Russian cookery). KACHE - Russian dish of cooked buckwheat. There are
several ways of preparing it. (l lb.) buckwheat, I teaspoon salt,25 g.
Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (lIb.) (l oz., o2.,2 tablespoons) butter. (1 2
tablespoons) to pick out any black grains. 1. l. Sort the buckwheat ta - these
people tind find un~ unwhich people husk which still covered with the hard husk are
are stijl covered wilh pan without grease glease or liquid, until until sightly.
Cook in a a frying pan grains acquire a colour. Put Înto into an an ovena Iight
light golden colom. the grains just proof dish. dish, season with salt, add add the
butter, and pour in just Bake in a a slow slow oven oven for 2j to to cover. Sake
enough enough boiling water to caver. grains should should fall the grains It will
have have a a thin crust but but the hours. It 3 hours. apart easily. easily put
the in a the buckwheat buckwheat in a 2. Using same proportions, put Using the the
same cover with cold cold saucepan, add add salt and melted butter, cover double
saucepao, a low heat for for J 3 hours. rryater, stir, and cook OD on a water, pour
and pour with boiling water and scald wilh 3. Wash the buckwheat, scald cover with
salt salt and and butter, butter, cover liquid. Put in a a seucepan witb off off
the the liquid, Put in boil, stir, stir, and and transfer with boiling water, bring
again to the boil, hours. for 3 3 hours. into a a double double saucepan. saucepan.
Cook for iota (l lb.) g. (1 KAcITE 500 g. lb.) DE KACHE Soak 500 Kasha croûtons.
cro0tons. CROÛTONS cRo0roNs DE - Soak until it it forrns forms a a thick thick warm
water water un\il crushed crushed buckwheat buckwheat in in warrn put it it in in a
a large earthenware earthenware porridge. Season with salt salt and and put
porridge. Season wirb pot.

2t

crust Bake a hot oven for Sake in a for 2 hours. hours. Remove Rcmovc the thick
cnlst not stick· sticksurface. Scoop out all formed on the surface, ail the
porridge not a piece a bowl. of of the pan and put in a ing lng to ta the sides of
bowL Add a pîeœ of Mix weil spatula. Press well with a spatula. butter butter about
the size of an egg. Mix Press 'dough' a 'dough' the the porridge between between 2
saucepan lids lids to to make make a (* inch) thick. Cut into t 1 cm. (! inlO
shapes shapes with wÎth a pastry-cutter paslry-cutler and brown them in clarifiod
clarified butter. butter. served with shchi, borshch These buckwheat buckwheat
crofitons croûtons are s.erved and other other soups. aod A(x CHAMPIGNONS
cuAMpIGNoNs Kasha with with mushrooms. Kasha mllsbrooms. KAcITE KACHE AUX - Prepare
the buckwheat porridge as indicated above, adding to it it putting it in the sliced
mushrooms tossed in butter before putting oven. aven. pot, with handed fresh butter
Serve in in the cooking pot, Serve the cooking with fresh butter handed separately.
PARMESAN KAcITE DE DE SARRASlN AU PARMESAN Parmesan. KACHE SARRASIN AU Kasha with
Parmesan. porridge as indicated ahove. above. When it is Make the buckwheat
porridge from of the soft baked, remove remove the crust f rom the top and use part
of porridge to a deep dish, or or a a buttered to line line a buttered boat-shaped
dîsh, grated Parmesan porridge with grated gratin dish. Sprînkle Parmesan Sprinkle
the the porridge gratin porridge of porridge and melted butter. Spread another
layer of cheese and grated Parmesan butter. sprinkle with grated on top and
sprinklewith Parmesan and melted butler. with Parmesan Parmesan the surface,
surface, sprinkle with full, smooth the When it is full, Wben Serve with with
me\ted melted in the oven. oven. Serve and melted butter and brown in (q.v.) stock.
and estouffade (q.v.) butter and poI.oNArs - PÎck Pick over, over, blanch blanch
and KAcITE POLONAIS Polish kasha. kasha. KACHE Polisb (5f pints, pints, Simmer it
gently in 3 litres (5~ hull 250 g. (9 oz.) barley. Simmer size of an egg. butter
uer about the sue G pints) milk with a piece of bu Remove from from the stove. Stir
until the barley is fully cooked. Remove as for for (9 OZ., eggs beaten beateir as
g. (9 Add 250 250 g. oz., generous cup) butter, 6 eggs (6 tablespoons, cup) sour
sour tablespoons, seant scant -t dl. (6 an omelette, and and 1 dl. an + cup) cream.
Bake in a mould. Bake charlotte mould, in a buttered charlotte Put this mixture in
napkin and and serve serve the kasha a napkin in a hot oven. mould in oven. Wrap
the mould hOI with double cream. in it. Serve wilh (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. KAcITE DE
DE SEMOULE sEMouLE Semolina kasha. KACHE Semolina - Pour 500 for an Beat 2 2 eggs
as as for an on a a slab. slab. Beat semolina on 3 cups) Smolensk Smolensk semolina
pour over the so that that the the Mix well sa the semolina. semolina. Mix and pour
omelette and mixture to dry dry moistened. Leave the mixture semolina is thorougbly
thoroughly moistened. semolina a food food mill mill or straioer. strainer. through
a a very moderate oven. Put through in a pints) milk pints, 4| pÎnts) 250 g. (9
oz., milk with with 250 Boil 2 2 litres litres (3| pÎnts, Boil Season. Simmer
generous cup) butter, semolina. Season. butter. Pour in the semolina. brown and
brown gently, stirring frequently. Put into a a serving serving dish and butter. in
a hot oven. Serve with melted butter.

See CHEESE. CHEESE. KAUNAS - See

(furki$ cookery) -- Name Turkey for for Name used used in in Turkey KEBAB (Turkish
KEBAB is skewered skewered meat. feature is dishes whose whose principal feature
various dishes
s23 523
KEFIR KÉFIR
metal or wood. wood, The The meat - mutton, The skewers are are of metal lamb or
buffalo buffalo pepper, - is cut into squares, seasoned with pepper, salt, thyme
thyme and and powdered powdered bay bay leaves. leaves, Square pieces pieces of
salt, skewer between mutton fat on the skewer fat are placed on between the pieces
pieces of meaL In ln Turkey, mutton fat fat takes the place of bacon. The meat.
served plain, skewered skewered meat is grilled grilled over hot embers, and is
served plain, with lemon or with various various garnishes. garnishes. cALETTE
Kebab galette. galette. KEBAB EN GALETTE - Cut into thick squares a boned shoulder
of lamb. lamb, Steep the the pieces in in milk, milk, and a boned place them them
on skewers with squares squares of of green pepper, pepper, tomato, tomato, onion
and and bay bay leaves leaves between. between, Sprinkle with with powdered onion
embers. thyme. Grill over hot embers. on a Take Take the the pieces pieces off off
the the skewers. skewers, Arrange Arrange them them on (q.v.) (thin cake) made of
galette ga/elle (q,v,) of wheaten wheaten flour. fiouL Cover with finely chopped
chopped onions onions previously previously browned in butter. butter. Moisten
Moisten another wheaten wheaten galette, gale/le, with brown stock and cover with
another which should be be piping hot. Shish-kebab, which which is is the the
Turkish Turkish name name for for skewered skewered Shish-kebab, mutton mut ton
cooked in this this way, is also served served with pilaf pilaf of of rice or with
chick chiek peas peas and raw finely finely sliced onions. onions, spit some on an
Tchevir me me kebab - Place on an upright spit sorne thin slices of of mutton,
mutton. alternating alternating with pieces of mutton fat. faL This spit turns tu
rus itself itself in front of of an upright grill. grilL As the meat meat is cooked
the pieces pieces are slit sIit lengthwise, taken off the spit spi! one after after
another, another, and served with yogurt, pilaf pilaf off ofrice, of riee, etc.
etc,

(i pint, scant and 4 dl. seant 2 cups) Continue simmering simmering dl. (! cups)
vinegar. Continue for for 15 15 to 20 minutes or until untiJ the sauce is is
thickened to the
desired point. Seal in hot sterilised sterilised jars or bottles. bottles, desired
KETMIE KETMIEand known as Plant, the fruit of which is edible and (See OKRA.) okra,
gumbo or ladies'fingers. ladies' fingers. (Sec OKRA,) okra, KHLODNIK (Polish
(polish and and KIILODNIK Rllssian cookery). cookery). KoLoDNIK KOLODNlK Russian
Iced soup, popular in Poland, its country country or origin, and soup, very popular
Russia, in Russia.
-

It is made as follows:
Wash and and blanch4large blanch 4 large handfuls hand fuIs of of tender tender
beetroot beetroot leaves. leaves, Wash

a handful Chop finely. finely, Add Add to to these these a handful of of finely
finely chopped, Chop
and drained drained chervil, tarragon, tarragon, chive, fennel and blanched and
shallot. embedded in chopped ice, and herbs in a a dish embedded Put these herbs
(scant pint, moisten moisten them them with t litre litre (seant pint, Zf, 2i-
cups) cucumber brine, Add Add the the same sa me amount of kvass (q.v.), (q,v,), a
drink very brine. popular in serving, season io Russia. Russia. Just before
serving, season the soup with following garnishes: garnishes: salt and a pinch of
fine sugar. Add the following erayfish tails, 500 500 g. (l (1 lb.) diced, diced,
braised sturgeon, sturgeon, 4 or 5 5 48 crayfish tablespoons diced, diced, fresh
fresh cucumber. Add Add 3 dl. dl. (+ (} pint, pint, licups) sieved sour cream and I
1 or 2 pieces of ice. ice, Serve with quarterod quartered hard-boiled hard-boiled
eggs eggs sprinkled sprinkled with with finely chopped chervil chervil and fennel.
fenneL
f

l|

KID. KID,

Fermented milk of Caucasian origin. origin. Strictly it it should be made of

camels' milk but, in practice, it is made made from from cows' cows' milko milk,
skimmed skimrned or or not, not, according according to to taste. tas te.
Fermentation Fermentation is induced by means of of kifir kéfir bacteria. bacteria.
When the bacteria bacteria have been added added to the milk it is put put in
bottles bottles with patent patent stoppers stoppers and kept for a period in a hot
cupboard. cupboard. After a day, mild kifir kéfir is obtained. obtained, This This
is slightly laxative. After After two two days, days, mediun medium kifir kéftr is
is obtained, obtained, which wbich is is not laxative. Strong Strongkifir kéfir is
obtained obtained after after three three days of of fermentafermentation. It Il is
is slightly constipating and and contains contains 2'5 2·5 per cent alcohol.
alcohoL Kifir Kéfir has a a rather sour taste. tas te, It lt is frothy and contains
a greater alcohol according greater or or lesser lesser proportion proportion of
alcohol according to to the period period of of fermentation. fermentation, The
casein casein shows signs sigos of peptipeptinisation in the form of thin flakes.
flakes, Kifir Kéfir is easily easily digestible and is often recommended for
invalids. invalids.

KEFIR KÉFIR

KEFTESKEBABS KEITES-KE8ABS (furkish (Turkish cookery) - Made Made from from small
small

raw meat ofraw meat (mutton, (mutton, veal or or buffalo), buffalo), skewered,
skewered, grilled slices of slices and served with pilaf pilaf of of rice and the
the juices juices of of roast meat. meaL

cHsvREAU, CHEVREAU, cABRr CABRI - Young goat, goat, slaughtered slaughtered before
The meat beingweaned. being weaned, The meat of of the kid is notvery not very
substantial substantial but it is not unwholesome, as some sorne people people
believe. believe. In 10 French French butchery butchery sucking kids thirty thirly
to forty fort y days old are called titards, têtards, the other, three or four
months months old, are called ca lied broutards. broutards, All Ail the methods
methods of of preparation preparation given given for very young lamb are
applicable applicable to kid kid (see (see LAMB). LAMB), As As the the meat is is
rather rather tasteless it has to be well weil seasoned. seasoned, The roast roast
kid kid of Israel perfumes perfumes the the pages pages of the the Bible Bible with
its appetising aroma. It Il is the roast of of patriarchs patriarchs and kings. To
this day, the bedouin bedouin in his tent solemnly 'stews' 'stews' his kid on
festive occasions; and in Cambodia Cambodia and Burrra, Durma, the kid is the
traditional dish for engagement engagement celebrations. celebrations, In ln the
the Middle Ages, it it held he Id its own among quarters of venison and heads
ofboar, of boar, dressd dressed herons herons and white white swans. swans, Even
Even at at the time of the the kings kiogs of Navarre, the kid kid of the Pyr6n6es
Pyrénées was considered the chief attraction of the Easter Easter feasts. And the
gallant gallant B6arnais Béarnais who was to become become Henry IV IV had occasion
occasion more more than th an once once to to wash down down the the Easter Easter
kid with a fine fine Jurangon Jurançon wine.
-

KIDNEYS. KIDNEYS, RocNoNs ROGNONS

multi-Iobed. multi-lobed.

KETCHUP KETCHIJP or CATSUP CATSUP - Ketchup is a condiment condiment rather rather

than a a sauce in the the proper proper sense of the word. It Il is
manumanufactured commercially North commereially and much much used used in England
and North America. America, It Il is also made made in home home kitchens.
kitchens, Mushroom Mushroom ketchup or or catsrp. catsup. KETcHIIn KETCHUP Ar.rx
AUX cHAMprcCHAMPIGjar layers NoNs NONS - Put in a salting saltingjar layers of of
fresh sliced mushrooms mushroomsabout about t 1 cm. cm, (* (t inch) deepdeep - and
sprinkle sprinkle each each layer layer with table salt, salt, pepper pepper and
allspice. allspice, Leave Leave the the mushrooms mushrooms in the salt for 5 or 6
days in a cool cool place. place, Press to extract all ail the the juice. juice.
Boil this juice. juice, Season Season with with pepper, pepper, thyme, thyme, bay,
bay, ginger, ginger, marjoram marjoram and and a a little tomato tomato paste.
paste, Leave Leave to cool. cooL Filter Filter and bottle. bottle, Tonato Tomato
ketchup. KErcHr.Jp KETCHUP Ar.lx AUX roMArEs TOMATES'up 3i 31 kg. kg. - Cut up (8
lb.) lb,) unpeeled unpeeled tomatoes, 6 medium medium onions, onions, 2 sweet sweel
red red peppers and 2 garlic peppers and garlic cloves. cloves, Cover with water
water and and boil boil gently until unti] the vegetables vegetables are 3oft.
soft. Strain through a sieve. sieve. Tie Tie in a bag bag I l red pepper,2 pepper,
2 bay bay leaves, leaves, I 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped celery, I ] tablespoon
L1.blespoon mustard mustard seeds, I 1 teaspoon teaspoon peppercorns peppercorns
and I 1 stick cinnamon, cinnamon, and add this, tbis, with I 1 tablespoon salt,
salt, juice. Boil to thejuice. Boil down down by by half, half, stirring stirring
frequently. frequently. Add 100 100 g. g, to the (4 oz., * t cup) brown brown
sugar, 100 100 g. (a (4 oz., oz.,! cup) white sugar sugar cup) white

- Pigs' Pigs' and and sheep's kidneys kidneys are are the shape of a haricot
(shell) bean; bean; calves' and ox kidneys are

sought-after Calves' and lambs' kidneys are delicate and sought-after foodstuffs.
foodstuffs. Pigs' Pigs' kidneys, a little richer richer and with a sweetish
sweetish weil thought of. Ox and sheep's kidneys kidneys are tas te, are less well
taste, tough lough and often taste taste of of urine. kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE
coe COQ - These are used mainly Cocks' kidneys. as as an an ingredient ingredient
in garnishes, but they may also be used, used, various ways, ways, as hot hot hors-
d'euvre hors-d'œuvre ot or small entrdes, entrées, cooked in various in in the same
sa me way as cocks'combs cocks' combs (q.v.). (q,v.). To prepare a garnish, wash
-..rash firm, white white cocks'kidneys cocks' kidneys in several waters. waters.
Put them into a small saucepan saucepan with water, a pinch pinch of of salt, salt,
a little little butter butter and and a few drops of of lemon lemon juice. juice.
Star! cooking over a a good good heat. hea!. As soon as as the the liquid Start
begins to boil boil turn the heat heat very low and cook, cook, covered, for begins
l0 10 to 12 minutes, minutes, taking ta king care to avoid boiling. boiling. Use
Use according according to ta the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Kidneys Kidneys
saut6ed sautéed with with Madeira. Madeira. RocNoNs ROGNONS slur6s SAUTÉS e,u AU
rrl.q,oinr kidneys sliced sliced and and sautEod sautéed in MADÈRE - Calves' or
lambs' kidneys butter. Madeira Madeira is is poured poured into ioto the cooking
pan pan and and this this butter. sauce is diluted with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce
sauce (see SAUCE.) SAUCE,) sauce

s24 524
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

( Scarnati) Preparing kidneys kidneyson skewer(Scarnali) onaaskewer Preparing

KILKIS or or NORWEGIAN NORWEGIAN ANCHOVIES ANCHOVIES -- Tiny Tiny fish fish found
found KILKIS mainly in in northern northern European waters. preserved like waters.
It It is is preserved like the the mainly anchovy and and is is very very weil well
liked liked in in Russia. Russia. It It is is served served as as an an anchovy
(see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, hors-d'euvre (see HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre). hors-
d'euvre). hors-d'œuvre

(furkish and KIMALI BUREK BUREK (furkish and Russiao Russian cookery). cookery). KI
KTMALT KIMALI MALI BEURREcK Stuffed pancake rolled rollod into the the shape of a a
cigar, shape of cigar, BEURRECK - Stuffed filled with with forcemeat forcemeat or
or sorne some other (See other filling, filling, and and fried. fried. (See filled
HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, Beurrecksà Beuruecks d la la
turque.) turque.) HORS-D'ŒUVRE,
KINGFISH. TASSARD TASsARD --Large in ail all oceans. oceans. There There KINGFISH.
Large fish found in species. The The flesh flesh is firm and and white is firm
white and and it it are many different species. as tunny fish. fish. is prepared
prepared in the same way as

KIPPER These, strictly strictly called called kippered kippered herrings, herrings,
are are KIPPER - These, and smoked. smoked. herrings which are slit open and
Kippers are very good good to eat. They are usually grilled grilled and Kippers and
(see served with butter or or Maître Matte d'hôtel served with melted melted butter
d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). They can butters). They can
also also be BUTTER, Compound be boiled. (See (See HERRINGS.) HERRINGS.)

KIRSCH Spirit with with a a very very strong strong bouquet, KIRSCH bouquet,
chiefly - Spirit

manufactured and in Germany. The finest manufactured in easten France and finest
kirsch comes cornes from Alsace. Alsace. Black Black Forest kirsch kirsch also also
enjoys great reputation. a is distilled from from fermented ripe a great
reputation. It is ripe wild
cherries. cherries.

Kirsch is highly prized pize.d by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. It is used great used

a a great deal for flavouring flavouring in confectionery confectionery and
pâtisserie. and pdtisserie.

KISEL. KIssEL KISSEL - Russian dessert made from from ail kinds of all kinds
berries. berries. It It is served served in in a a charlotte charlotte mould with
with thick thick cream and can can be be eaten either hot or cold. KISSING CRUST.
BArsuRE BAISURE -

pale pale soft soft crust crust where where one loaf loaf has has touched another
in baking. baking. covers covers all ail the the utensils utensils used used in the
the kitchen kitchen for the preparation preparation and and cooking cooking of
food. The utensils, of various various shapes, are made made of of copper copper or
or other other metals metals such su ch as as nickel, nickel, aluminium or

Bakery term describing the

KITCHEN KITCHEN EQUIPMENT. EQUIPMENT. nlrrmrE BATTERIE DE cursrNE CUISINE- This

term
bimetals, bimetals, silver-plated silver-plated copper, copper, iron, cast-iron,
cast-iron, bronze, sheetsheetiron, iron, wrought-iron, wrought-iron, etc., etc., of
of special fireproof fireproof earthenware or china, china, or or of of hardened
hardened glass glass which which is is also fireproof. fireproof. We We know know
very very little little about about the the first fust kitchen kitchen utensils.
The Egyptians, the the Assyrians Assyrians and and the the Persians Persians
principally principally used used Egyptians, earthenware and and bronze bronze
vessels, vessels, big-bellied big-bellied in shape, shape, with earthenware and and
without without handles. handles. They They also also used used the the spit and,
for cookcooking cakes cakes and and biscuits, biscuits, they they had had baking
baking dishes dishes rather rather like ing those we we use use nowadays. nowadays.
those

generally use The Jews The Jews did did not not generally use earthenware
earthenware vessels vesselsfor for purposes; most cooking purposes; potsand cooking
panswere most of of their their pots and pans were made made of of metal. To To
extract meta!. extract the pots in the meat meat from from the the big big pots in
which whichfood food destined to destined to be prepared, they be offered offered
to to God God was was prepared, they used usedaabig big two-pronged fork, two-
pronged fork, the the forerunner forerunner of of our our table table fork, fork,
which which did not not make did make its its appearance appearance until until the
the seventeenth seventeenth century. century. The Greeks, The Greeks, for
preparations, used for their their culinary culinary preparations, greatly used
greatly improved ver vessels. improved bronze, bronze, iron iron or or sil silver
vessels. They They also also had hadsorne some in in earthenware. earthenware.
Almost Almost ail all these these vessels vessels were were conical conical in in
shape shape and and therefore therefore not not very very deep. provided with deep.
They They were were provided with lids, lids, and and either either handles handles
or or detachable detachable r-ings. rings. Among principal kitchen Among the the
principal kitchar utensils utensils used used by by the the Greeks Greeks was was
the the chytra, chytra, a pan used a kind kind of of earthenware earthenware pan
used for for cooking cooking meats meats and and stews. stews. It It was was
apparently apparently in in these these utensils utensils that that the the famous
famous Spartan prepared. Or Spartan broths broths were were prepared. perhaps this
Or perhaps this historical historical dish dish was was made made in in the the
kakkabi, kakkabi, a a fairly fairly large large threethreelegged pot. The legged
pot. The Greeks Greeks also pot, which also had had another another pot, which can
can be be considered prototype of considered as as the the prototype of the the
earthenware earthenware casserole casserole which which we we use use nowadays
nowadays for pot-au-feu. This, for the the pot-au-feu. This, filled filled with
with cooked (probably cooked cooked fruit fruit (probably cooked in in wine wine
and and sweetened sweetened with with honey) honey) was was carried god, Bacchus,
carried to to the the altar altar of of the the god, Bacchus, on on the the third
third day day of of the the feast feast of of Anthesteria, the the famous famous
festival festival in in honour of of Dionysus. The The Greeks Greeks also also had
had bronze bronze casseroles casseroles which which resembled resembled those now
in in use. use. For For cooking cooking meat meat and pieces they and fish fish cut
cut in in pieces they had a a pan similar similar to the the type type which in
France today in France is called today is called coupe coupe lyonnaise, lyonnaise,
and and which which the the Greeks Greeks called called teganon. teganon. In In
order to place al! all these these metal metal or or earthenware earthenware
receptac1es receptacles on on the fire, fire, the the Greeks Greeks used used a a
triangular support, support, the the tripod, tripod, that is is still in use use in
country kitchens. Kitchen Kitchen utensils utensils used used by by the Romans were
the Romans were similar similar to to those those of the the Greeks. Greeks. It It
is is also also a a known known fact fact that that Greek Greek cooks cooks brought
the brought the art of cooking to to Rome. Rome. The The Romans, Romans, who who
were were sensual, voluptuous voluptuous people, with a great love a great love of
of luxury luxury in in ail all things, made made kitchen utensils utensils not not
only only of of bronze bronze but but also also of of silver. Among the the
treasures treasures of of Bosco-Reale, Bosco-Reale, which which are are kept kept
in the the Louvre, various various kitchen kitchen utensils utensils of of this
this type type can can be be seen. Kitchen utensils utensils used used by seen.
Kitchen by the the Romans Romans inc1uded included the the c/ibanus, an earthenware
utensil utensil with clibanus, an earthenware pierced in with holes holes pierced
in it, it, used used for cooking various for various dishes, pastry, in dishes,
mainly mainly pastry, in hot hot ashes; ashes; craticula, a meat and craticula, a
grill for for cooking meat and fish fish on glowing on the the glowing and the the
apala, embers; and apala, a a dish dish with with cavities cavities of varying
sizes of varying sizes hollowed out, out, which which was was used used for
hollowed for cooking cooking eggs. eggs. Gauls and and the the Gallo-Romans The
Gauls Gallo-Romans had had earthenware earthenware and and metal kitchen utensils
utensils somewhat somewhat similar metal similar to to those those of of the the
Greeks and the Romans. The Celts knew nothing of Greeks and the Romans. The Celts
knew nothing of the the

525 525
KITCHEN KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT

Water cxcavations at Pompeii provided Water beaters heaters found found in iD the
excavations provided

with pipes pipes to make make the the best best possible possible use use ofthe of
the heat heat from the sa me as for the fueplace; fireplace; the principle
principle is the same perfectioned our our most most perfectioned tubular tubular
boilers boilers

refinements refinements of of the the sumptuous sumptuous cookery cookery of of

Imperial Imperial Rome Rome and their their pots pots and and pans pans were were
rudimentary. rudimentary. With the coming coming of the the Merovingian Merovingian
era, era, kitchen kitchen utensils utensils began began again again to to improve.
improve. Some Sorne specimens specimens of of these these have have survived,
survived, and and we we can see in museurns museums the the magnificent magnificent
bronze bronze vessels vessels in in which which the the food food was was prepared.
prepared. From From reading reading Charlemagne's Charlemagne's Capitularies,
Capitu/aries, it it seems seems evident evident that that in in succeeding
succeeding centuries centuries French French kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were
were improved improved still still further. further. After After the the Crusades
Crusades a great great number number of of richly richly worked worked metal metal
utensils utensils - ewers, ewers, salvers, salvers, cauldrons cauldrons - were were
brought brought to to Europe Europe and and served served as as models models for
for the the artisans artisans of ofthe the West West in in the the manufacture
manufacture of ofmagnificent magnificent utensils. utensils. In In French French
museums museums and and private private collections collections can can be be seen,
seen, for for example, example, cooking cooking pots pots in in engraved engraved
bronze bronze or or artistically artistically beaten beaten copper; copper;
wrought-iron wrought-iron pot-hangers, pot-hangers, which which are are
veritveritable able works works of of art; art; kitchen kitchen forks, forks, which
which in in those those days days were were called called roables; roab/es; turning
turninggridirons gridirons; big-bellied pots pots and and kettles kettles; ; big-
bellied ; the acoste-pot (old (old version version of of the the accote-pot,'tilt-
pot'), accote-pot, 'tilt-pot'), and and the acoste-por other other kitchen kitchen
implements implements which which are are all aIl excellent excellent examples
examples of of ironmongery. ironmongery. To To show show what what a a collection
collection of of kitchen kitchen utensils utensils in in the the sixteenth-century
sixteenth-century manor manor house hou se was was like, like, we we reproduce
reproduce an an extract extract from from an an inventory inventory made made in in
1530 1530 at at the the chiteau château of of La La Mothe-Chandenier: Mothe-
Chandenier:

'In : 'In the the kitchen kitchen of ofthe the aforesaid aforesaid ch0teau château
of ofla la Mothe Mothe: '18 '18 silver silver dishes dishes and and 18 18 escuelles
escuelles (mediaeval (mediaeval version version of of icuelle écuelle - bowl) bowl)
bearing bearing the the coat coat of of arms arms which which the the late late
Master Master and and the the late late Lady Lady brought brought with with fhem
them from from Javarzay Javarzay when when they theycame camehere here to to the
the chdteau château of ofla la Mothe. Mothe. 'The 'The following following utensils
utensils were were found found in in the the said said kitchen: kitchen: 'Six 'Six
large large dishes, dishes, three three small, small, and and ten ten bowls, bowls,
all aIl utensils utensils engraved engravedwith withthe thelate lateMaster's
Master'scoat coatof ofarms; arms; 'One 'Onepot-hanger; pot-hanger; 'Two 'Twobeaten-
iron beaten-iron cookers; cookers; 'One 'Onebig bigiron iron spit; spit; 'Then
'Then two two more more smaller smaller spits; spits; 'One 'Oneiron iron fish fish
slice, slice, one onegrid; grid ; 'Item, 'Item, one onebig bigcooking cooking pot;
pot; 'Item, 'Item,one onebig bigcast-iron cast-ironpot potwith withperforations;
perforations; 'Item, another another iron iron pot pot of ofone one seilie sei/ée
(a (a measure measure of ofcapacapa'Item, city); city) ; 'Item, three seillies,
'Item, two twobig bigcauldrons cauldronsof ofthree seillées, without without rims;
rims; 'Item, 'Item, another anothercauldron, cauldron,of oftwo twoseillies;
sei/fées; 'Item, 'Item, another, another,of ofone oneseillie; sei/fée; 'Item,
'Item, two two small smallcauldrons cauldronsof ofhalf halfseillies; seillées;
'Item, two two big big round round bronze bronze pans pans of ofabout about fotn
four seillies sei/fées 'Item, each; each; 'Item,plus plusanother anotherround
roundpan panof oftwo twoseillies sei/fées(with (withaapiece piece ' Item, broken
brokenoff: off;

'One wooden press for pressing pressing capons; 'Two iron spoons; spoons; 'One 'One
small skimmer; skimmer; 'One round bronze bronze pan pan with a long handle for
cooking cooking fish; 'Two 'Two old dripping dripping pans; pans; 'One 'One small
smal! metal metal mortar mortar and and pestle; pestle; 'Three iron iron frying
pans pans with with long long handles; handles; 'Three 'A table table on on two two
trestles; trestles; 'A 'One 'One old bench bench with with bar bar back; back; 'One
'One cupboard cupboard with with two two glass glass doors, which which can can be
be locked with a a key; key; with 'Another old cupboard, for keeprng keeping plates
and and dishes, 'Another with two two glass glass doors, doors, which which can can
be be locked locked with with a key; key; with 'Six big big copper copper
candlesticks; candlesticks; 'Six 'Six 'Six other other medium-sized medium-sized
candlesticks candlesticks; ; 'One deep deep copper copper basin basin for for
washing washing hands; hands; 'One 'Two deep deep bronze bronze candlesticks,
candlesticks, in in the the shape shape of of a a cup; 'Two 'In the the larder
larder near near the the said said kitchen: kitchen : 'In 'Three long long shelves,
shelves, but but there there was was no no meat meat there there except except for
for 'Three one piglet, piglet, which which was was kept kept for for the the Master
Master in in case case he he wanted wanted one it while while he he was was here.
here. it 'The following following bottle-ware bottle-ware: 'The : 'Barrel of of
Gascony Gascony wine; wine; 'Barrel 'Pitcher with with a a spout; spout; 'Pitcher
'Half-litre mugs; mugs; 'Half-litre 'One stone stone mustard mustard pot, pot, for
for making making mustard, mustard, etc.; etc.; 'One 'One small small table table
for for making making pastry.' pastry.' 'One

Our ancestors ancestors used used many many other other utensils utensils in in
addition addition to to Our those mentioned mentioned in in the the inventory
inventory quoted quoted above. above. those They had, had, among among others,
others, the the horsehair horsehair sieve sieve or or tammy, tammy, They which, it
it is is said, said, was was invented invented by by the the Gauls. Gauls. The The
following following which, utensils were were also also in in use: use: the the
couloir, couloir, a a large large strainer strainer with with a a utensils handle
which which was was used used for for draining draining foods; foods; the the
rastels raste/s or or handle raste/rier, iron iron hooks hooks on on which which
food food was was hung; hung; pots pots and and rastelrier, kettles of ofall al!
sizes; sizes; tartiires tartièresOaking (bakingtins); tins); skillets, skillets,
saucepans, saucepans, kettles frying pans, pans, etc.; etc.; the thefiral féra/ -a
a large large metal metal vessel vessel used used as as a a frying watercontainer;
container; the theDecdasne, becdasne, a a pot pot with with a a handle handle and
and a a long long water curved spout; spout; funnels, funnels, mostly mostly in in
copper; copper; the the esmieure, esmieure, a a curved grater used used for for
grating grating nutmeg nutmeg and and cheese. cheese. Nutmeg Nutmeg was was grater
greatly valued valued in in those those days, days, as as we we know. know. 'Do 'Do
you you like like greatly nutmeg? They They put put it it in in everything,'
everything,' Boileau Boileau was was to to write write a a nuheg? few hundred
hundred years years later. later. few In the the kitchens kitchens of of those
those times times they they also also used used gridirons, gridirons, In mortars;
spice-grinders; spice-grinders; various various ladles ladies which which were were
called called mortars; pot/ouches and and poches; poches; minchoirs, minchoirs,
long-bladed long-bladed knives knives used used potlouches for slicing slicing pork
pork fat fat into into rashers; rashers; mincers mincers and and various various
other other for utensilswhich whichare arestill stillin inuse usein inthe
thepresent presentday. day. utensils Tin plating plating of ofpots pots and and
pans pans was was already already known known at at that that Tin time. In In the
the Homeric Homeric era era tin, tin, along along with with silver, silver, gold
gold and and time.

526 s26
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN
The kitchen kitchen in in many many modern modern homes homes is is the the centre
of family family centre of The living, especially especially in in the the ever
increasing number ever increasing number of of areas areas where where living,
domestic service service does not exist. does not exist. This This means means that
that the the kitchen domestic kitchen must be be an an attractive attractive room
room to to be be in, in, as as weil well as as an an efficient must efficient place
in produce meals. in which which to to produce meals. Such Such a room in in many a
room many cases place cases irtcludes a a dining dining area, area, either either a
a table table or or counter counter space. space. The The includes basic
requirements, requirements, the the stove stove and and the the refrigerator,
refrigerator, are basic are dedefor appearance signed for appearance as as weil
well as as usefulness, usefulness, but but besides besides these signed these
appliances there there are are many many others others designed designed for for
home home use use appliances which make preparation of make the the preparation of
food food not not only only easy easy but but which enjoyable. Included Included in
in an an ever ever expanding expanding list list of of such such enjoyable.
appliances are are electric electric beaters, beaters, electric electric blenders
for chopping, blenders for chopping, appliances pulverising and pur6eing, pressure
pressure cookers, and puréeing, cookers, machines machines for for pulverising
slicing and and shredding shredding vegetables, vegetables, rôtisseries,
r6tisseries, thermostatithermostatislicing pans, waste cally controlled controlled
frying frying pans, waste disposai disposal units, units, automatic automatic cally
dish washers washers and and home home freezers. freezers. But But ail all this
this equipment equipment does dish does not assure good food. assure good food. On
the contrary, gourmets agree On the contrary, gourmets agree that that not much in
in texture texture and and flavour flavour can can be sacrificed to be sacrificed
to the the speed speed and and much efficiency of of many many of of the modern
gadgets. One modern gadgets. One must must retain retain a efficiency a proportion.
sense of of proportion. sense Kitchens in in small small restaurants restaurants
and and inns inns are are usually usually an Kitchens elaboration of of a a
domestic domestic kitchen, kitchen, but but the the modern kitchen kitchen
elaboration designed for for large large hotels, hotels, restaurants restaurants
and institutions may and institutions designed be compared compared to to a a
factory. factory. Here the the utensils are tools of utensils are of the be trade
and and are are built on on a a large large scale scale and and of sturdy sturdy
materials. The kitchen kitchen is is divided divided into into many many
departments, each each of of The head chef and assistants. There may be departwhich
has its head ments for baked goods, goods, soups, roasts, fish, fish, salads salads
and and horsments d'euvre, vegetables, vegetables, desserts, desserts, beverages.
In In sorne some kit kitchens d'œuvre, chens subdivided; in others they are these
departments are further subdivided; All these departments are under the direction
direction of a combined. Ali or head head chef chef who who is responsible for is
responsible for the the whole manager or operation. On his staff there are usually
one one or more dietioperation. plan the menus. tians to Trained kitchen menus.
Trained kitchen engineers design tians to plan types and and specifications, but
but each must kitchens of various types meet public more rigid public health
requirements, which are today more and closely controlled than ever before.
Specifications for a modern kitchen ieed 2000 kitchen designed designed in the
U.S.A. U.S.A. to feed 2000 people people a day, day, but but capable capable of of
feeding feeding 5000, 5000, include include the the following equipment: equipment:
3 3 electric ranges ranges 3 3 compartment compartment steamers steamers 2large 2
large tilting tilting kettles used for soups and vegetables vegetables 2
undercounter refrigerators refrigerators 2 undercounter I 1 bakers'revolving
bakers' revolving tray oven oyen 2 2 cooks'tables cooks' tables with with sinks
sinks

: · . , ,.·'"• Î • ·.~· ·.,. '.•·

Î'I' . '.
~
,
;

.....•

.2 . ·.' . '.•.•.•.•.

French kitchen and table utensils of table utensils of the Middle Ages and the the
Renaissance: French kitchen and the Middle Ages and Renaissance: ( l6th century);
2. Lidded cup (l4th century): 3. Copper pot with two l. Trencher Trencher (16th 1.
century); 2. Lidded cup (14th century); 3. Copper pot with two (9th jug handles
(l5th century); 4. (l6th century); century): 5. 5. Knife handles (9th century); 4.
Metal Metal jug (15th century); Knife (16th century); 6. Mannite Marmite with (l4th
century); with two two handles handles (14th (l5th century); century); 7. 7. Copper
Copper kettle century); 6. kettle (I5th pitcher sculpted in 8. Copper with ewer
(9th its oriental-style stand century)i 9. 8. Copper ewer with its oriental-style
stand (9th cent ury) ; 9. Pitcher sculpted in the decoration (t5th century): Saint-
Benoit church church in Paris (l5th 10. TwoTwothe decoration of of the the Saint-
Benoit in Paris œntury); 10. branched l6th century); candlestick ( cenrury); II. I
l. Cauldron Cauldron ( l5th century). century). brancbed candlestick (l6th (15th

bronze, to be bronze, was was considered considered to be one one of of the the
precious precious metals. metals. History History tells tells us us that that the
the Aedui, Aedui, the the people people who who inhabited inhabited ancient ancient
Gaul, Gaul, invented invented metal metal plating plating and and it it is is
thanks thanks to to this this discovery discovery that that vessels vessels and and
kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were were made made in in such such a way that a
way that tin, tin, applied applied on on copper, copper, could could not not be be
distinguished distinguished from from silver. sil ver. There There are are many
many people people who who protest protest against against the the
disappeardisappearance ance of of the the archaic archaic spits spits or or such
such other other utensils utensils formerly formerly used used in the kitchen. They
are even even capable capable of of lamenting lamenting the the in the kitchen.
They are passing of those those inconvenient inconvenient charioal charcoal ranges
ranges - the the sloves stoves passing of about about which which Car€me Carême
complained complained when when he he said: said: 'The 'The coal is is killing
These were were the the old-fashioned old-fashioned paillasses, paillasses, killing
us!' us!' These laboriously kept up, where, laboriously kept up, where, in in live
live charcoal charcoal embers, embers, stews stews and and braised braised dishes
dishes simmered simmered and and sometimes sometimes caught caught fire. fire. In
In 1849, 1849, Michel Michel Chevalier Chevalier wrote wrote in in the the Magasin
Magasin PitPittoresque:'The toresque: 'The improvement improvement of of household
household utensils utensils has has more more to to do do with with real real
freedom freedom than than is is generally generally realised, realised, for for it
it contributes contributes a a great great deal deal to to freedom freedom from
from drudgery drudgery in in the the home, home, which which matters matters no no
less less to to human human happiness happiness than than liberty liberty in in a a
public public place. place. One One utensil utensil may may free free the the
servants servants from from one one type type of of arduous arduous or or unhealthy
unhealthy task, task, another another allows allows one one person to person to do
do the the work work of of three three and, and, consequently, consequently, frees
frees two two from from domestic domestic drudgery.' drudgery_' Modern Modem
kitchen kitchen equipment eqoipment - Modern Modern kitchen kitchen equipment,
equipment, either either in in domestic domestic or or institutional institutional
kitchens, kitchens, includes includes such such utensils as well-sharpened
saucepans, utensils as well-sharpened knives, knives, wire wire whisks, whisks,
saucepans, frying frying pans, pans, casseroles, casseroles, braising braising
pans, pans, kettles kettles and and strainers, strainers, and and many many
inventions inventions which which in in recent recent years years have have
contributed contributed much much to to make make culinary culinary operations
operations easier easier and and have have taken taken the the drudgery drudgery
out out of of cooking. cooking.
527 527

I 60-quart (7O-litre) (70-litre) electric mixer mixer 1 60-quart

2 salad salad preparation preparation tables tables Salad refrigerator Salad

refrigerator

Fish Fish refrigerator refrigerator 80-quart 80-quart (9OJitre) (90-litre) electric

electric mixer mixer Mobile Mobile flour flour bin bin Room Room refrigerators
refrigerators for for meat meat Room Room refrigerator refrigerator for for
vegetables vegetables and dairy products products Room Room refrigerator
refrigerator for for frozen frozen foods foods Baker's Baker's refrigerator
refrigerator 'Pass-through' 'Pass-through' refrigerator refrigerator which which
can can be be filled from from the the kitchen and opened opened on on the the
serving serving side side kitchen side side and 5 pans used used for for soups
soups and and sauces sauces 5 lO-quart 1O-quart (I2-litre) (l2-litre) tilting
tilting pans Hot Hot food food table table Refrigerated Refrigerated cold co Id
table table Milk Milk dispenser dispenser Cream Cream dispenser dispenser Tea Tea
urn urn Coffee Coffee urn urn Electric Electric juice juice dispenser dispenser
Electric Electric ice ice maker maker
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

i,
i'{'d

Classic French pots and pans: 1. Casserole russe; 2. Sauté pan (plat à sauter); 3.
Frying pan (sauteuse); 4. Smalt casserole russe; 5. Round cocotte; 6. Oval
coppercocotte for cooking chicken en COCOlle; 7. Small copper cocotte for game; 8.
Stew
4.Smallcasserolerusse;5.Roundcocotte;6.Ovalcoppercocotteforcookingchickenencocotte;
T.Smallcoppercocotteforgame;8.Stew pan (marrnite (marmite d à ragoot);9. ragoût);
9. Large Large stock pot pot (grande marmite); marmite); 10. 10.
Doublesaucepan(marmite)forsteamingpotatoes;ll.Braisingpan(braisiire)(Larozsse)
Double saucepan (marmite) for steaming potatoes; Il. Braisiog pan (braisière)
(Larousse)

528 528
KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

Classic 3. Braising (braisidre)for filletof,beef; pan(braisière) forfillet of beef;

Braising pan (casseroles) for forbain-marie; (poissonidre); 2. pans: 1. bain-
marie;3. Saucepans (casseroles) fish kettle 2.Saucepans pots and Classic French l
Copper kettle (poissonière); Copper fish French pots and pans: 4. pan (plaque
d'office); 6. Pan for cooking harn (turbotidre); (jambonniire) ;7.
ham(jarnbonnière); rurbot kettle kettle(turbotière); 7.Turbot (bassine or pan
(bassine 4. Round Round stew t Copper .11g,:iilln|;1"1.,r.. stew pan or rondin
rondin àdragoût); ragofit)' 5. 8. Fish pan (plaque à poisson) (Larousse).

;fi?;.:;i6*:;:-g

529 529
KITCHEN TEAM TEAM KITCHEN

Addd to to these these utensils utensils there there are are many many machines
machines for for Added serving food, food, for for disposing disposingof of rubbish
rubbish and andfor for washing washing dishes. dishes. serving Many hotels hotels
catering catering to to aa luxury luxury clientele clientele have have charcoal
charcoal Many broilers and and rôtisserie r6tisserie spits spits rotating rotating
before before open opeir fires. fires. broilers
KITCHEN TEAM. TEAM. BRIGADE BRTcADE DE DE CUISINE In aa hotel cursrNE -- In hotel
or or KITCHEN restaurant this this term term applies applies to to the the staff
staffof kitchen. restaurant of aa kitchen. principle, a In principle, a kitchen
kitchen team team of of aa relatively relatively important important In
establishment, a a team team which which takes takes its its orders orders from
from a a chef, chef, establishment, gros bonnet referrod to to as as the ('big-
hat') in the gros bonnet ('big-hat') professional in professional referred jargon,
consists of a chef sancler (sauce chef), who is conjargon, consists of a chef
saucier (sauce chef), who is considered to to be be the the deputy deputy head head
of of the the team; team; an an entremettier, entrernettier, sidered who has has
charge preparation of charge of ofthe ofsoups, vegetables and and who the
preparation soups, vegetables sweet courses; courses; a rdtisseur who, a rôtisseur
who, in in addition addition to to various various roasts, roasts, sweet prepares
fried also prepares fried dishes grills; and, dishes and and grills; and, finally,
gardefinally, a a gardealso (larder chef), manger (larder chefl, who who has has
charge charge of of aU all the the supplies, raw supplies, raw manger prepares cold
and cooked, cooked, and and prepares cold dishes dishes such galantines, such as as
galantines, and pdtis, mousses, jellies, sees terrines, pâtés, mousses, etc.
prepares the etc. He He also also prepares the jellies, sees terrines, to the the
cutting cutting up up of poultry, game, of meat, meat, fish, fish, poultry, game,
etc., etc., and and does does to all the the cold cold, hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre
relevant relevant to to the the kitchen kitchen service. service. ail Kitchen
assistants, assistants, called called commis, commis, are are attached attached to
to the the chef chef of of Kitchen each section. section. each If the the
establishment establishment is is an an important important and and busy busy one,
one, sorne some If (each team of these these sections sections (each team service
semice is is called callod a a section, section, or or of partie, in in France),
France), are are doubled. doubled. Thus Thus the the sauce sauce section section
might might partie, have a a second second service service under under a a special
special chef chefthe fish fish chef. chef. have - the Entremets becomes becomes a a
separate separate section, section, also with a also with a chef chef at its at its
Entremets head, usually usually the the soup soup chef, potagiste or chef, called
called potagiste potager. The or potager. The head, (the section rdtisserie (the
section in in charge charge of roasts) may of roasts) may be be
supplesupplerôtisserie mented by by a a cook cook who who would would have have
charge grills and charge of of ail all grills and mented would, therefore,
therefore, be grillardin. be called called the the grillardin. would, In an an
establishment establishment of greater importance, of still still greater
importance, the the roastroastIn ing section, in in addition addition to to the
roast chef chef proper and the ing section, the roast proper and the grillardin,
also have have a (fryer), a a friturier (fryer), a noun which grillardin, would
would also noun which probably does not exist in any dictionary probably does not
exist in any dictionary but but is is accepted accepted in in culinary and means
exactly what it says. says. culinary terminology terminology and means exactly what
it Equally, the garde-manger, addition to Equally, the garde-manger, in in addition
to the the actual actual head head of of this this important important section,
section, might might be be supplementod supplemented by by the the inclusion of
other chefs, each with his own inclusion of other chefs, each with his own
speciality. speciality. One One might meat, etc. might have have the the charge
charge of of hors-d'auvre, hors-d'œuvre, another another of ofmeat, etc. chef an
assistant assistant chef, chef, there there are are also also special special teams
teams dealing dealing chef and and an with pdtissier and and several with pastry.
pastry. These These would would include include a a chef chefpâtissier several
assistants, and a hef g lacier. assistants, a a chef chefconfiseur confiseur and ac
chef glacier. The art of The art of managing managing the the kitchen kitchen team
team of of a a big big restaurant restaurant or or hotel hotel is is a a difficult
difficult one. one. A A chef chef in in charge charge of of a a kirchen kitchen
must must not not only only be be a a man man who who knows knows his hisjob job -
his his art, art, we we should should say say inside but he he must must also also
have have the the qualities qualities of of an an ideal ideal inside out, out, but
administrator. The past (if time administrator. The time is is long long past (if
it it ever ever existod existed at at all) ail) when when kitchens kitchens in in
big big establishments establishments were were run run without without some sorne
system of accounting. accounting. Today, Today, more more than than ever, ever, the
the kitchen kitchen of of system of a a restaurant restaurant or or of of a a hotel
hotel must must be be well weil organised, organised, everything everything must be
foreseetr and carried must be foreseen and carried out out in in such such a a way
way that that the the dishes, dishes, whilst whilst being being excellent excellent
in in quality, quality, cost cost only only what what they they should should cost
cost and and no no more. more. In In a a modern modem establishment establishment
the the kitchen kitchen is is a a department department which which must must never
never show show a a loss loss profit. always a always a profit. At At the the end
end of of the the nineteenth nineteenth century century and and at at the the
beginning beginning of of the the twentieth twentieth there there were were a a
great great number number of of chefs chefs de de anisine cuisine (famous (famous
gros gros bowtets), bonnets), who who had had charge charge of of kitchen kitchen
teams: M. Prat, who for a long time teams: M. Prat, who for a long time had had
charge charge of of the the kitchens kitchens at at the the Grand-Hotel Grand-Hotel
in in Paris; Paris; Jean Jean Giroix, Giroix, who who dirocted directed the the
kitchen kitchen at at the the Hotel Hotel de de Paris Paris in in Monte Monte
Carlo; Carlo; L6opold Léopold Mourier, Mourier, who, who, after after having having
directed direeted the the kitchen kitchen of of the the Maire Maire restaurant
restaurant (now (now no no more) more) became became the the grand grand maitre
maître of of various various famous famous restaurants, restaurants, such such as
as the the Cafe Café de de Paris, Paris, Armenonville, Armenonville, the the Pr6-
Catelan, Pré-Catelan, Fouquet, Fouquet, etc. etc. The Thegreat great Escoffier,
Escoffier, who who died died in in 1935, 1935,was was first first the the chef
chefof of the the Petit Petit Moulin-Rouge, Moulin-Rouge, then then took took
charge charge of of the the no no less less
530 530

famous kitchens kitchens of of the the old old Maire Maire restaurant, restaurant,
then then the the famous Grand-Hotel at at Monte MonteCarlo Carlo and and the
theSavoy Savoy in in London. London. He He Grand-Hotel finished his his active
active career career at at the the Carlton Carlton Hotel Hotel in in London.
London. finished Phil6as Gilbert Gilbert was was the the author author of of the
the best best culinary culinary works works of of Philéas our time. time. Other
Other illustrious illustrious names names inc1ude include Tony Tony Girod, Girod,
our Ninlias, Argentier, Argentier, Prosper Prosper Drenault, Drenault, Prosper
Prosper Salles Salles and and Ninlias, Deland. Deland. It is is impossible
impossible for give the for us us to to give the names names of gros of ail all the
the gros It past who bowtets of of the the past who have have improved improved the
the status status of of the the bonnets culinary art. art. We We can only mention
can only mention chefs great private chefs of private of the the great culinary
houses, such as Urbain Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Émile Emite Bernard, Bernard, Armand
Armand hou ses, su ch as Gouff6, Joseph Joseph Favre Favre and and Gastilleur,
Gastilleur, sorne some of of whom whom had had Gouffé, charge of of the the
imperial imperial and royal kitchens. and royal kitchens. charge KNEADING OF OF
DOUGH. DOUGH. FRAISAGE FRATSAcE -- This This operation operation conconKNEADING
sists of of breaking breaking up up the the dough dough once once it it has has
become become elastic, elastic, by sists by working it it with palm of with the the
palm of the the hand. hand. The The object object of of handling handling working
the dough dough in in this this way way is to obtain perfect mixture is to obtain a
a perfeet mixture of of ail all the the the ingredients. ingredients.

Selection :L Selection of of cooks' cooks' knives knives: 1. Palette Palette knife

knife (Couteau (Couteau h à tartiner):Z. tartiner); 2. Carving Carving knife knife
(Couteau (Couteau dc de cuisine);3. cuisine); 3. Slicing Slicing knife; knife; 4.
4. Chopping Chopping knife knife (Couteau (Couteau it à abattre\: abattre); 5. 5.
Filleting FilleLing knife knife for for fsh(Couteautronche fish (Couteau tranche
lart):6.yegetable lard); 6. Vegeta ble knife knife (Couteaudffice) (Couteau d
office) plnt. (C oute llefie Andrd. Larousse) (CoUlellerie André. Phot. Larousse)

Kitchcn Kitcheo tnives. knives. courgArx COUTEAUX DE DE cursrNE CUISINE - For For
tle the various various culinary is essential essential to to have have good good
tools, tools, and and in in culinary operations operations it it is particular
particular very very good good knives. knives. Each Each has has its its proper
proper use. use. In In order order of of size size they they are: are: vegetable
vegetable knife knife for for peeling peeling vegetables; vegetables; knife knife
with with a a larger larger blade blade for for cutting cutting fish fish fillets;
fillets; slicing slicing knife knife with with a a fairly fairly large large blade
blade for for slicing slicing raw raw or or cooked cooked meat meat perfectly;
perfectly; straight-bladed straight-bladed chopper, chopper, with with which which
it it is is possible possible to to break break up up bones bones of ofa a certain
certain size, size, and and to to hash hash meat meat in in the the same same way
way as as with with a a four-bladed four-bladed chopper; chopper; carving carving
knife, knife, which which is is used used for of fat fat pork pork or or bacon
bacon and and which which resembles resembles for iutting cutting bards bards of
the the so-called so-called 'English' 'English' knife knife used used to to carve
carve large largejoints joints of ofbeef beef and but which, which, instead instead
of of having having a a rounded rounded point, point, is is and hams, harns, but
sharply sharply pointed. pointed. There isalso also the theknife knife for
forboning boningmeat. meat. It Itis is used used mostly mostly in in Thereis
butchery butcherybut butcan canbe beusod used in in cooking. cooking.

a a blade. blade.

KNIFts. KNIFE. courEAU COUTEAU - A A cutting cutting instrument, instrument, with

with a a handle handle and and
KROMESKY KROMESKY
Cisaille Cisaille d à volaille\; volaille); the the cutlet cutlet beater; beater;
the the butcher's butcher's saw; saw; and and the thescraper scraperfor for the
thebutcher's butcher's table. table. good Table of excellent excellent quality,
quality, with with good Table knives knives should should be be of cutting cutting
blades blades in in pure pure steel. steel. Many Many table table knives knives are
are made made they today today in in stainless stainless steel. steel. Their Their
principal principal advantage advantage is is that that they in silver made are do
not stain. stain. For For serving serving fruit, fruit, knives knives are made in
silver do not plate. For fish, special knives are made of silver plate.

plate. For fish, special knives are made of silver plate.

Utensils of various shapes, REST. ponrs-cotrEeuKNIIE KNIFE-REST. PORTE-COUTEAU -

Utensils ofvarious shapes, soiling soiling the the tablecloth. tablecloth. prevent
placed in in glass glass or or silver, silver, on on which which the the knife
knife is is placed to to prevent

of KI\UCKLE. KNUCKLE. souRls SOURIS - Small, Small, fleshy fleshy muscle muscle on
on the the leg leg of mutton. mutton. It It is is much much appreciated appreciated
by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. This is not, properly speaking, a KOHLRABI.
KOHLRABI. cHou-uw CHOU-RAVE - This is not, properly speaking, a
plump, plump, pithy pithy ball. bail. Some Sorne varieties varieties have have
quite quite a a delic1te delicate (q.v.) and for havour. flavour. All AIl the the
recipes recipes given given for for turnips turnips (q.v.) and for
saignerl;2. Sorne slccial special knives: knives: l. 1. Boning Booing knife knife
(Couteau (Couteau it à saigner); 2. Fluted Fluted knife; knife; 3' 3. Some ; 6.
Potato peeler; peeler; 4. 4. Cannelling Cannelling knife; knife; 5' 5. Knife Knife
for for scraping scraping lernon lernon zest zest; 6. can can opener opener Potato
(Coutellerie (Coutellerie Andrt. André. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse)

root, but a a swelling swelling of of the the stem stem above above ground ground
in in the the form form of of a a root, but

Among the the cutting cutting tools tools which which it is necessary necessary to
have have in in a a Among is a a weIl-ordered kitchen, kitchen, are the following:
following: a a cleaver, cleaver, which which is well-ordered cut in in fairly large
instrument with which a carcase can be cut half; half; a a chopper, chopper, to to
crack the hardest bones; bones; a a chopping chopping knife, which which is made
made with one, two or four blades; the the whole whole knife, series of of small
knives used for chopping, chopping, peeling peeling and paring paring series into
cutting potatoes potatoes, and for cutting vegetables, especially especially
potatoes, potatoes into ribbons; knives for opening oysters; tin-openers. for
knives with a fluting device or one for Little tools, such as knives little as
should !ittle be mentioned, as zest, should be scraping lemon zest, for cutting
cutting knives for special knives ravioli; special instruments cutting ravioli; for
cutting instiuments for

celeriac celeriac (q.v.) (q.v.) may may be be used used for for this this
vegetable' vegetable. A LA PAYSANNE - Cut Kohlrabi KohJrabi il à la la paysanne.
paysanne. cuou-RAvs CHOU-RAVE À LA PAYSANNE Cut some chopped in in lard Brown
slices. into the kohlrabi the kohlrabi into slices. Brown in lard in which wruch
sorne chopped and of pork fresh breast some fresh softened. Add onion pork and
onion has has been been softened. Add sorne breast of equal in equal and stock
stock in wine and white wine with white salt. Moisten season season with with salt.
Moisten with oven. proportions. Cook in proportions. Cook in the the oyen.

in made in milk, originally originally made mares' milk, KOUMISS KOUMISS -

Fermented Fennented mares' ferment The fennent kifir. The to kéfir. similar ta
rather similar Tartary, rather and Tartary, Turkestan and Turkestan (brewer's (8
oz.) g. (8 barm (brewer's oz.) bann 250 g. prepared by working 250 by working is
prepared used is USed and a honey little a (4 with flour g. cup) oz.,l yeast) 125
and yeast) and 125 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) flour with a little honey and a (5|pints, add
3 3litres Next day day add overnight. Next glass ofmilk. Liave overnight. of milk.
Leave glass litres (Si pints, grelt of a contains It leaven. pints) to this milk to
this leaven. It contains a great deal 4 pints) milk 94 of 6t per cent alcohol. l'65
to to 3·23 3'23 per gas and from 1·65 and from acid gas cirbonic acid carbonic cent
alcohol. CROMESQUI. See CROMESQUI. KROMESKY - See KROMESKY

(poultry shears shears jointing chicken chic[en (poultry for jointing grapefruit;
scissors scissors for -

(IVrcolas) mould(Nicolas) Kugelhopf withmould Kugelhopfwith

531 531
KUGELHOPF

KUGELHOPF

KUGELHOPF u KOUGLOFF (Nsation pastry). KoucELKUGELHOPF or KOUGLOFF (Alsation

pastry). KOUGELHoF, KoucI,or It is said that eueen Marie Antoinette was HOP,
KOUGLOF - -It is said that Queen Marie Antoinette was yery fond of this pastry,
which contributed a great deal to the very fond of this pastry, which contributed a
great deal to the fashion in her day for sweets made with risen dough. These
fashion in her day for sweets made with risen dough. These were no longer made with
leaven, as they had been until the were no longer made with leaven, as they had
been until the *jqqh of lheeighteenth sighteenth century, but with brewer's yeast,
middle of the century, but with brewer's yeast, which had been in use for a very
long time in Austrii and which had been in use for a very long time in Austria and
Poland. Poland. Some authorities, however, believe that it was Car€me Sorne
authorities, however, believe that it was Carême who popularised this pastry in
paris, when he established who popularised this pastry in Paris, when he
established hiTrc{ as a pastry-cook. It is said that he was given the himself as a
pastry-cook. It is said that he was given the reclpe by M. Eugine, at that time
master chef io prince recipe by M. Eugène, at that time mas ter chef to Prince
Schwartzenberg, the Austrian ambassador. Schwartzenberg, the Austrian ambassador.
500 g. (18 oz,.,4 cups) sieved flour, 200 g. ._Ingredienls. 500 g. (18 OZ., # cups)
sieved flour, 200 g. (7Ingredients. oz.,-scant cup) butter, 90 g. (3* oz., ! cup)
fine sugar,? (7 OZ., scant cup) butter, 90 g. (3~ OZ., ~ cup) fine sugar, 4 g. (l
oz.) yeast - or 15 g. G or.) in summer, 50 g. 2l 9-g9., 25 g. (1 oz.) yeast - or 15
g. (t oz.) in summer, 50 g. eggs, (2 oz., cup) currants, l| teaspoons salt. (2 OZ.,
i cup) currants, It teaspoons salt. Make the dough according to the instructions
for Brioche Make the dough according to the instructions for Brioche dough (see
DOUGH), but make it a little less firm. dough (see DOUGH), but make it a little
less firm. Butter a large kugelhopf mould and line the sides with mould and line
the sides with Butter a large kugelhopf shredded almonds. Half-fill with dough.
Leave the dough in shredded almonds. Half-fil! with dough. Leave the dough in a
wann place, until it has risen above the sides of the mould. a warm place, until it
has risen above the sides of the mould. Bake in a hot oven N to 45 minutes. Bake in
a hot oyen 40 to 45 minutes. KULICH (Russian cookery). rour,rcn - Cake of risen
dough, KULICH (Russian cookery). KOULICH - Cake of risen dough, made in Russia for
the ceremonial Easter dinner. After it f,as made in Russia for the ceremonial
Easter dinner. After it has been baked and cooled, it is decorated with a cluster
of been baked and cooled, it is decorated with a cluster of artificial roses.
artificial roses. KUMMEL - Russian liqueur extracted from caraway seeds KUMMEL -
Russian liqueur extracted from caraway seeds (not, as wrongly supposed, from cumin
seeds, a mis(not, as wrongly supposed, from cumin seeds, a misapprehension that
explains its name because cumin is apprehension that explains its na me because
cumin is Kiimmel in German). Kümmel in German). Ole type of Russian kummel has a
deposit of crystals at One type of Russian kummel has a deposit of crystals at the
bottom of the bottle. This is sugar with which the liqueur the bottom of the
bottle. This is sugar with which the liqueur is supersaturated under heat and which
resumes its crystaltne is supersaturated under heat and which resumes its
crystalline state four or or five five days days later. later. The The same same
state upon upon cooling cooling four phenomenon also occasionally occurs in jam-
making. phenomenon also occasionally occurs in jam-making.

Kulich, Kulich, Russian Easter Russian Easler cake cake

Danzig liqueur liqueur is is aa well-known, well-known, potent potent type type of

Danzig of kummel kummel particularly large with aa particularly large amount amount
of of crystallisation. crystallisation. It with It is is an an essential ingredient
ingredient of of Rothschild Rothschild soufflé. soufr6. essential Kummel or or
Leidsche l*idsche kaas kaas is is also also the the name name of Kummel of aa Dutch
Dutch (See CHEESE.) cheese. (See CHEESE.) cheese.

IiyMgUAT -- Very Very small small orange orange shaped shaped like KUMQUAT like an
an elongated elongated olive. This Thisfruit, which is is nowadays nowadayssold
sold in olive. fruit, which in certain certain food food stores, stores. is eaten
eaten raw, raw, like like oranges oranges and and tangerines. tangerines. is It can
can be be used used in in salads salads or or marmalade. marmalade. It
KVASS. KWASS KwAss -- Slightly gaseous, mildly Slightly gaseous, KVASS. mildly
alcoholic alcoholic drink drink similar to to beer. beer. It It is is made made in
in Russia Russia by similar by adding adding fermented fermented yeast toa of rye
flour flourmixedwitha yeast to a must of mixed wi th a little ted barley. little
sprou sprouted barley. It is is sometimes juniper berries. sometimes flavoured with
mint leaves It leaves or or juniper berriei.

s32 532
BOUll..LE - See CHEESE. CHEESE. LA BOUILLE

wrasse.ltis - European sea fish, a]so It is also called wrasse. LABRUS. LABRE
LABREremarkable for its ils brilliant colouring, but is is tasteless, and
remarkable as an an inused as limp in texture. It is is served fried, fried, or may
be be used bouillabaisse (q.v.). gredient of of bouillabaisse
LACHE in the delicate to eat, cooked in LACIIE - Small sea-fish, very delicate same
way as the smelt (q.v.). It is rather scarce. LACRIMA-CHRISTI. LAcRyMA-crnnn
LACRIMA-CHRISTI. LACRYMA-CHRISTI - Wine made from and grapes grown on the slopes of
Vesuvius. It is rather sweet and slopes ofVesuvius.
delicate.

for touches white, except for winter win ter it turns almost completely white,
partridge called snow snow partridge It is is sometimes sometimes called black on
on the the taiI. tail. It of black plumage. because of its winter plumage. because
in spite for the table, spite of of its its table, in is much sought after for This
bird is fact that it it feeds feeds on on is due to to the fact flavour which is
slightly bitter ftavour and other other mountain berries. myrtle berries and birch-
shoots, myrtle (q.v.), which which belong grouse (q.v.), same belong to for grouse
to the the same All recipes recipes for AIl lagopus, are are suitable for this this
bird. bird. family as as the lagopus, suitable for family
in the the middle of of who was was born in LaguipiEre, who LAGUIPIÈRE LAGUIPDRE -
Laguipière, of the was one one of the great and died died in in 1812, was the
eighteenth eighteenth century and him as as 'the Car€me described him cookery.
Carême masters masters of of French French cookery. all in aIl Car€me's tutor tutor
in of our our tÎmes'. times'. Carême's most chef of most remarkable chef accomwho
accomfact, Laguipière, Laguipidre, who waq in in fact, branches of cookery cookery
was, branches of Russia. to Russia. followed him him to and later later followed
panied Murat Naples and Murat to to Naples (later Vilnius) l8l2 during the the 1812
Vilnius) during at Vilno Vilno (Iater He froze froze to death at to death from
Moscow. retreat from Moscow. parisim, le Cuisinier Cuisinier parisien, his book,
book, le At of his At the the beginning beginning of great master: master: about
his his great following words words about Carême wrote the the following Car€me
wrote pupil, a pupil, voice of of a Listen to the voice to the 'Awake, 'Awake,
shade of Laguipiire! Listen shade of in Paris, surrounddied in Paris, surroundhave
died a devotee ! You should have friend, a a devotee! a friend, of memory of in al!
all of of us the memory ed reverence evoked evoked in us by by the ed by the
reverence by the pious homage of a a your great accept the homage of great work . .
. Laguipière, Laguipidre, accept the pious your work ... your name. name. 1 I have
have works with with your faithful I couple my works faithful disciple. 1 couple my
and, today, 1 I invoke invoke you with pride in all my my books, and, cited in aIl
cited you you my yoru memory my finest work.' your dedicate to to you memory and
dedicate practitioner of art of of a practitioner of the learned a the art It
regrettable that so learned It is is regrettable that so left any any written
written not have have left cooking should not cooking as as Laguipière Laguipidre
should posterity. for posterity. record record of of his his teachings teachings
for
regiven in Franche-Comte to to aa reLAITIAT in the Name given the Franche-Comté
LAITIAT -- Name freshing wild fruit fruit in in whey. whey. made by freshing drink
drink made by steeping steeping wild year old. a year old. animal before it is is a
LAMB. ovine animal before it lcNrlu -- Young Young ovine LAMB. AGNEAU already year,
wh en the After has already animal has the animal when age of of one one year,
After the the age (the incisor of herbivorous herbivorous grown grown ils incisor
teeth teeth of nippers (the its first first two two tlippers pennanent animaIs),
lied a other permanent a yearling. When When the the other called animals), it it
is is ca teeth ram or or a a ewe. ewe. a ram becomes a the animal becomes teeth
appear, the forms: ln known in in two lamb is is known two forms: In the culinary
culinary sense sense lamb yet (or baby) not yet 1. lamb, This This animal animal
has has not l. The The milk-fed milk-fed (or baby) lamb. graze.The yet been The
best been best out to tograze. and has been put out not yet weaned and has not been
weaned French Pauillac lamb. is Pauillac lamb of French lamb of this this type type
is young 2. lamb. This This is is aa young meadow lamb. lamb or or salt salt meadow
2. Ordinary lamb yet reached ts full sheep full growth. not yet reached iits sheep
which has not Good quality lamb recognised by the width of its lamb can can be be
recogllls{:d Good quality loins, flesh, and and by by the the with ftesh, well
covered with loins, which be weil which should should be whiteness and abundant,
abundant, firm and which should be firm should be its fat, fat, which whiteness of
of its freshness can can be be judged kidneys. Its Its freshness round the the
kidneys. especially round from and the colour of of the the kidneys, legs and the
colour its legs of its from the the firmness of

LACT ARY. LACTAIREIt contains LACTARY. LAcTAIRE- Fungus of the agaric type. It a
lactaries are are poisonSome lactaries a white or coloured milky juice. Sorne ous,
others are edible, flavour in spite spite edible, though of rather poor ftavour of
the the fact is called called delicious. fact that one type is LACTIC ACID.
LACTIQUE - An acid present in sour milk and presentin and sourmilk rlcrpue-An
LACTICACID. certain and is an antiseptic antiseptic and is It is is an fermented
substances. i:ertain fermented substances. It 1-"'" c, . .·... ",,'J effective
particularly in preventing putrefaction. A primitive effective in it in in sour
preserving meat was sour milk. was to immerse it method of nrp·~prvino LACTIC These
are are microbes microbes LACTIC FERMENTS. FERMENTS. LACTIQUES recrreurs -- These
which are very widespread and of many kinds. kinds. When When they they which are
widespread and (milk sugar) molecules are introduced molecules lactose (milk milk
the introduced into milk the lactose are produced. It It is is these microbes
microbes are split lactic acid acid is is produced. split and and lactic which
breed on and in in dairies. dairies. of cows cows in in cowsheds cowsheds and on
the the teats teats of They agents in milk and and are are one one of of the in
They cause cause the curdling curdling of of miLk the agents the production of of
cheese. cheese. Sour Sour milk milk is is produced either either by introducing
indigenous ferments ferments into milk or or by using from into the using ferments
imported from the milk the These latter, latter, being being and the Caucasus. the
Balkans, Egypt Egypt and Caucasus. These adapted quantity produce a a larger larger
quantity adapted to to higher higher temperatures, temperatures, produce of (See
CHEESE, KOUMISS, KEFIR, KOUMISS, CHEESE, KÉFIR, of lactic lactic acid. acid. (See
YOGURT.) YOGURT.) LACTOMETER. graduated densimeter A """.rtll'J,tprt llcroldrnr --
A LACTOMETER. LACTOMÈTRE which milk, from which the cream density of of milk, which
shows shows the the density content can be content can calculated. be calculated.
LADIES' FINGERS. GOMBO, - See LADIES'FINGERS. coMBo, GOMBAUT coMBAUrSee OKRA. OKRA.
pocHE -- Large LADLE. long and a a long LAI)LE. POCHE Large spoon spoon with with
cup cup bowl bowl and handle, liquid dishes. handle, used mainly for for serving
dishes. used mainly serving liquid

LADY yellow apple, tinged LADY APPLE Tiny variety of pale yellow APPLE -- Tiny with
and crunchy; the with carmine. The white white flesh is is firm and carmine. The
ftavour flavour sweetish, with a a touch sweetish, but but with touch of of
bitterness. bitterness. LAGOPUS. The lagopus or Pyreneut partridge LAGOPUS.
LAGOPÈDE rlcoptps -- The has plumage with with thin thin black streaks in summer.
In has tawny tawny plumage

533 533
LAMB

!---- -, .
1

Ba_ro_n-::--:-:-::--_1!-_ _

~_ _ _ _ ~

times part of of the loins, is left with the legs, then such a a joint joint times
a part is called ca lied a baron. Half Half of of this this joint joint is known
known as a quarter. quarter. The best way to prepare these these various joints
joints is to roast or

L __ _

pot-roast them. The loins can also be cooked whole (on the spit or in the oven)
oven) but they are usually divided divided into cutlets,
which be grilled grilled or or fried and served plain plain or with with various
various which can be garnishes. lamb offal (variety garnishes. All Alllamb (variety
meat) meat) is delicate delicate in flavour. fiavour.

Lamb: Lamb: division division of of the the live live animal animal

which which should be be pale pale pink. pink. Baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb is is
genergenerally ally sold whole, whole, with its its pluck. It It is also sometimes
sometimes sold in
quarters. quarters. Lamb Lamb should be be eaten eaten at at its freshest.
freshest. This This meat meat does not keep keep for for very very long. Ordinary
Ordinary lamb lamb and and milk-fed milk-fed lamb lamb are are sold sold in in
butchers' butchers' shops shops and, and, in in France, France, in in poultry
poultry shops. Ordinary lamb lamb is is divided divided into into cuts cuts like
like mutton. mutton. The best best parts parts are are the legs, legs, the the
saddle saddle and and the the loins. The neck neck and breast breast are
principally principally used used for for making making blanquettes, blanquettes,
and saut6 sauté dishes. dishes. fricassées, ragohts ragoûts and fricassies, The
legs are are generally generally used used for roasting. roasting. They They are
served as or with with a garnish of of vegetables vegetables - baked, baked, as
they they are, are, plain plain or dressed dressed with with butter, butter, or or
braised. braised. The The shoulders, shoulders, whether whether boned boned or or
not, not, are are usually usually prepared in in the the same same manner manner as
as legs. legs. Two Two legs legs are are called ca lied a a double. double. When
When the the saddle, saddle, and and somesome-

Lamb plays an important important part both in classical classical French French
cookery cookery and in home home cookery. cookery. Baby or milk-fed lamb is divided
divided into the the same cuts as as ordinary lamb: lamb: baron, baron, loin,
double, shoulder, leg, leg, quarter, quarter, saddle. saddle. All Ali these the se
cuts can be served with garnishes garnishes recommended mind mended for ordinary
lamb and for mutton. Bearing in mind the the particularly particularly delicate
flavour fiavour of this this meat, however, it is advisable advisable to to serve
serve it grilled, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or as as a roast, with its - as the
only accompaniits own juice juice - thickened or clear ment. ment. Other Other
parts of of milk-fed lamb are used for for blanEtettes, blanquettes, ragofrts sauté
dishes. ragoûts and saut6
_ BABY BABY oT or MILK-FED LAMB. AGNEAU AGNEAU DE LAIT LAITLeg Leg of baby or milk-
fed milk-fed lamb in pastry il à la p6rigourdine. périgourdine.

crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU uN EN pArE PÂTE A À r.,c, LA pfnrcouRDrNE PÉRIGOURDINE - A

method method of preparation preparation for leg of of baby or milk-fed milk-fed
lamb. lamb. Trim Trim the the leg and remove most most of of the the bone. Cook
Cook in a hot oven oven for for l0 10 minutes minutes to brown brown it. it. Allow
to to cool. cool. Cover Cover completely completely with sausage meat meat mixed
mixed with one-third of its its weight weight of uncooked uncooked goose goose
liver rubbed rubbed through through a a sieve, sieve, 2 2 diced diced truffies,
truffies, I 1 egg. egg. Wrap Wrap the the leg leg in a sheet sheet of of salt salt
pork pork or or a piece piece of of pig's pig's caul, previously previously soaked
soaked in cold water. water. Put Put the the leg on an oval-shaped sheet of rolled-
out pastry. Cover Cover with with another sheet sheet of of pastry. pastry. Seal
Seal the the edges edges by by crimping crimping them. Make Make a hole hole in in
the the middle middle to to allow allow steam to to escape. escape. Brush the the
top top of of the the pastry pastry with with beaten beaten egg, egg, and and put
put

Baron Baron
Saddle Sadd le

CUTS CUTS OF OF LAMB LAMB l. 1. Shoulder:2. Shoulder; 2. Rolled Rolled shoulder

shoulder l*g Leg l. 1. Loin; Loin; 2. 2. Bonedchops Boned chops

534
LAMB
it on on a a baking baking sheet. Cook Cook in a moderate oven oyen for 1 ljt
hours. it When removed removed from the oven, oyen, pour through the hole in When
the top top l+ It dl. (* (t pint, J t cup) Pdrigaeux Périgueux sauce (see SAUCE).
the Serve on on a a napkin-covered napkin-covered dish. dish. Serve This kind kind
of of hot pie can also be made with a boned boned and rolled leg of of ordinary
lamb. rolled of baby baby or or milk-fed milk-fed lamb lamb ir à la la Clamart.
Clamart. CARRÉ Loin of c.mnf D'AGNEAU Loin Àu LA crruvrenr CLAMART - Trim of baby
or milk-fed lamb and A - Trim the loin of pot-roast it in butter. When When cooked,
add to the add to the casserole g. (12 (12 o2.,2| oz., 2t cups) fresh fresh garden
peas prepared prepared à d la garden peas 350 g. under a française (see (see PEAS).
Leave to simmer sim mer for 5 a 5 minutes under frangaise lido lid. Loin of of baby
baby ormilk-fed or milk-fed lamb La Varenne. CARRÉ cennE D'AGNEAU lambLa Loin LA
vARENNE VARENNE - Bone a a trimmed trimmed loin baby or or milk-fed milk-fed loin
of baby LA Beat it to flatten slightly, season lamb. Beat season with salt and
pepper, dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and with breadcrumbs, pressing cover with
dip and coyer down well weil to to make make the the crumbs adhere. loin in in
adhere. Cook Cook the the loin butter until until both sides our. clarified butter
a golden col colour. sides are a clarified Arrange on on a a salpicon foundation
composed composed of a a dish a foundation dish on on a Arrange of cultivated
cultivated Mushrooms Mushrooms cooked in cream (see MUSH(q.v.) of crearn (see
MUSHROOMS). Sprinkle Sprinkle with (see BUTTER, with Noisette Norette butter butter
(see ROOMS). Compound butters). Compound butters). of baby baby or Loin of D'AcNEAU
cmnr D'AGNEAU maharaiah. CARRÉ lamb maharajab. or milk-fed lamb Loin MAHARADJAH -
Trim a loin of milk-fed lamb and pot-roast in in milk-fed a loin of Trim MAHARADJAH
butter. butter. When half-cooked, ~ cup) (3 oz., onion g. (3 cup) chopped chopped
onion add 75 75 g. oz.,* When half-cooked, add lightly butter. Season I teaspoon
curry teaspoon curry salt, 1 Season with salt, lightly cooked in butter. cooked in
powder and lid on. with a a lid on. powder and a a clove of garlic. Cook Cook with
clove of Serve shed with (see PILAF) PILAF) and and small garnished Rice pilaf (see
small with Rice Serve garni tomatoes juices with pan juices lj dl. dl. with It in
oiL oil. Dilute Dilute the cooked in the pan tomatoes cooked (t pint, 1 cup) white
wine, add 2 dl. (t pint, seant cup) fresh $ pint, 3 cnp) white wine, add 2 dl. $
pint, scant cup) fresh cream, pour over curry. simmer, and and pour over the the
curry. cream, simmer, Loin baby or clnnf D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU milk-fed lamb lamb
Monselet. Monselet. CARRÉ Loin of of baby or milk-fed MONSELET Trim lamb and and
cook cook milk-fed lamb a loin loin of of baby or milk-fed MoNSELET Trim a baby or
under with freshly freshly grill. When nearly cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle
with a grill. When nearly under a grated grill to golden. put back grated
breadcrumbs turn golden. and put under grill to turn back under breadcrumbs and Put
(see POTATOES). potatoes (see POTATOES)' Put on Anna potatoes of Anna on a a
foundation foundation of Garnish in butter. butter. cooked in quarters of with
quarters artichokes cooked of small small artichokes Garnish with Surround (see
sauce (see Demi-glace sauce buttered Demi-glace Surround with with a a border
border of of buttered SAUCE). sAUCE). Loin perigourdine. CARRÉ clnn6 la
périgourdine. i la lamb à milk-fed lamb Inin of of baby baby or or milk-fed
D'AGNEAU - Trim pEnIcouRDINEand bone a Trim and bone a i LA ll PÉRIGOURDINE
D'AGNEAU EN ru CRÉPINE cnfpwn À loin and cook cook in in butter until three-
quarters three-quarters butter until milk-fed lamb lamb and loin of of milk-fed
done. cool. done. Allow Allow to to cool. Coat pork forcemeat forcemeat with finely
minced pork finely minced on both sides with both sides Coat on mixed piece of
pig's caul of pig's caul in a a thin Wrap in thin piece with diced diced trufHes.
truffes. Wrap mixed with previously covers the fat covers the previously soaked
water. Make Make sure sure the the fat in cold cold water. soaked in meat with
cover with melted butter, with melted butter, coyer meat completely. Spread with
completely. Spread white grill or and grill or with more more butter butter and
sprinkle with white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkle broil garnish with with
small small loin on a dish, dish, garnish low heat. Put the on a on low heat. Put
the loin broil on potato Pirigueux sauce sauce with Périgueux potato balls in
butter. Serve with cooked in butter. Serve balls cooked (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Fried loin of baby or milk-fed lamb à la viennoise. CARRÉ Fried loin of baby or
milk-fed lamb i la viennoise. clnnf D'AGNEAU FRIT À preparation Method of of
preparation LA VIENNOISE vIENNoIsr -- Method D'AcNEAU rnrr .l LA suitable (or baby)
lamb. milk-fed (or baby) lamb. for loin loin of of milk-fed only for suitable only
Divide I hour lemon in oil, for 1 hour in oil, lemon loin in in half. half.
Marinate Marinate for Divide the the loin juice, juice, salt, pieces of parsley.
Drain pepper and Drain the of the pieces and chopped chopped parsley. salt, pepper
lamb in egg and breaddip in egg and breadin flour flour and and dip lamb and and
dry; dredge in dry; dredge crwnbs. fat. deep-fry in sizzling fat. or deep-fry in
sizzling Fry in in clarified clarified butter butter or crumbs. Fry Garnish
quarters of parsley and lemon. of lemon. and quarters Garnish with with fried fried
parsley Quarter of lamb. QUARTIER D'AGNEAU - Joint comprising Quarter of lamb.
eUARTIER D'AGNEAU - Joint comprising the from baby or baby or It is is mainly
mainly taken taken from leg and and half saddle. It half the the saddle. the leg
milk-fed (Pauillac) lamb, and is usually roasted. Ali (Pauillac) All the the
roasted. lamb, and is usually milk-fed le of garnishes ordinary or sadd saddle of
ordinary garnishes recommended for baron recommended for baron or lamb applicable
to quarter of lamb. lamb are are applicable to quarter of lamb. Roast baby or milk-
fed lamb. AGNEAU DE LAIT RÔTI - This Roast baby or milk-fed lamb. acNrAU DE LlIr
nOu - This method of preparation is suitablefor smalliambs. Dress the lambs. Dress
the preparation for is suitable small method of and shoulders. Truss the lamb to
give skin over the knuckles skin over the knuckles and shoulders. Truss the lamb to
give 535 535
and pepper, salt and a spit, season with salt spit, season it a regular shape. Put
on a a brisk roast before brisk fire, fire, and roast before a with melted melted
butter butter and brush with brush (1 lb.). per 500 g. (1 lb.). allowing 20 to 25
25 minutes per 500 g. allowing garnish with with long dish, dish, and and garnish a
long on a Take it off the the spit, spit, put on pan lemon. Dilute Dilute the and
quarters of of lemon. the pan of watercress and bunches ofwatercress juices lamb.
and serve the lamb. a little stock stock and serve with the juices with a garand
garmint sauce sauce and generally served with mint served with Roast lamb lamb is
is generally in roasted in can also also be be roasted Lamb can nished with various
vegetables. Lamb the the oyen. oven. n'.a,cNsnu 6p.luI,E D'AGNEAU GriUedsboulder or
milk-fedlamb. milk-fed lamb. ÉPAULE Grilled shoulder of baby or a few few slits on
both both slits on DE LAIT Trim the shoulder, shoulder, make a cRrI,rrs- Trim LArr
GRILLÉEwith melted melted butter. sides, butter. and brush brush with season, and
sides, season, 25 minutes. minutes. flame for for 20 20 to to 25 Grill a moderate
moderate flame Grill under under a melted butter, butter, with melted Sprinkle
brush with white breadcrumbs, brush Sprinkle with white and grill or colour. to
colour. or broiler broiler to and put under the grill garnished with Arrange on
with watercress. watercress. dish. Serve Serve garnished on a a long dish. AGNEAU
DE DE LAIT LAIr Baby rice. AGNEAU with rice. lamb stuffed strffed witb milk-fd lamb
Baby or or milk-fed (see pilaf (see FARCI Rice pilaf with half-cooked lamb with
half-cooked Rice AU RIZ nrz -- Stuffthe Stuffthe lamb FARcr AU liver, heart, heart,
PILAF), animal's liver, added the the animal's which have have been been added
PILAF), to to which sweetbreads fried into small slices, briskly briskly fried
small slices, cut into and kidneys, kidneys, eut sweetbreads and in and seasoned.
seasoned. in butter, butter, and Sew lamb. Coyer Cover the the back back the lamb.
and truss truss the opening, and Sew up up the the opening, place. Put with Put on
on a a spit spit in place. tied in rashers of of bacon bacon tied with strips or
rashers strips or per and 2V25 minutes minutes per allowing 20-25 lively fire,
roast before a lively fire, allowing before a and roast 500 (l lb.). g. (1 lb.).
500 g. Remove and eut cut away away off the the bacon bacon and spit" take take off
Remove from from the the spit, trussing garnish with watercress with watercress
dish, garnish a long long dish, Put on on a string. Put trussing string. juices,
diluted and pan juices, with diluted with quarters oflemon. with the Serve with the
pan of lemon. Serve and quarters a stock. few tablespoons of stock. tablespoons of
a few
RoaSl Roast baron baronoflamb oflamb

LAMB. AGNEAU -_ LAMB. AGNEAU Baron comprising the the The eut cutcomprising
BARoND'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU - - The lamb. BARON Baronof of lamb. le. This two joint is
potroasted on spitor orpotisroasted onaaspit This joint and the legs and the sadd
saddle. two legs roasted, juice. roast in inits itsown own juice. asaaroast may
also also be servedas roasted, but beserved but may It garnish of vegetables,
either either of vegetables, by aa garnish It is is accompanied accompanied by
arranged joint or withits its andwith served separately, separately, and orserved
around the thejoint arranged around own juice, left nature dependingon onthe
thenature leftas asit it is isor orthickened, thickened, depending own juice, of
garnish. of the thegarnish. For Average METHODS, Average Forcooking seeCULINARY
CULINARY METHODS, cooking time time see cooking roasts. times for roasts.
cookingtimesfor for baron of lamb. Green vegetables Garnishes suitable Garnishes
suitable for baron of lamb. Green vegetables am; braised ver soise; ; dressed
Anversoise vegetables ;An cream; braised vegetables; with butter orcre dressed with
butter or bouquetière; jarduchesse ;jarDauphine ; duchesse; Clamart ; Dauphine;
bretonne ; Clamart; bouquetiire ; bretonne; dinière; provengale;renaissance;
parisienne; provençale; rmaissance; macddoine; parisienne; diniire; macédoine;
Richelieu. (seePOpotatoes(see PO(See GARNISHES.) Anna potatoes GARNISHES.) Anna
Richelieu.(See TATOES) ways potatoesprepared preparedin variousother otherways
invarious TATOES)and andpotatoes would wouldalso alsobe besuitable. suitable.
LAMB LAMB
Blanquette of lamb. BLANQUETTE BLANeUETTE D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU -- This of lamb. This
method method BllUlQuette preparation is is often of preparation often describcd
described as as a a fricassée. of fricassie. pieces of Soak the the pieces of lamb
lamb and and dry dry weil. well. Fry Fry in in butter withbutter withSoak out
allowing allowing to to brown. brown. Season. Season. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 2
2 tablespoons tablespoons out (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour, flour, blend
blend over over heat, heat, add add white white stock stock and and (3 garnish as
(see below). as for for Blanquette Blanquette of of lamb lantb à d l'ancienne
I'ancienne (see below). gamish Bring to to the with the the boil, boil, simmer
simmer with lid on from 45 the lid on from 45 minutes minutes to to Bring I hour.
hour. 1 pan. Add Transfer to another pan. to another Add small small onions,
onions, mushrooms, mushrooms, Transfer yolks as and the sauce. Blend Blend in the
sauce. in egg egg yolks as described described below. below. and Blanquette of lamb
à of lamb I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. BLANQUETTE BLANeUETTE D'AGNEAU D'AcNs^au À A
Blanquette L'ANcIENNE -- This This is is made made of of shoulder shoulder and and
ribs ribs of of ordinary ordinarv L'ANCIENNE (4 lb.) meadow lamb. lamb. Cut or salt
salt meadow 1* kg. Cut l~ kg. (4 lb.) lamb lamb into into unifonn uniform or
pieces. Soak I hour Soak for for 1 hour in in water, water, blanch, dip dip in in
cold cold water water to to pieces. cool, and and dry. dry. cool, Put into into a
pan. Add a shallow shallow pan. (or a Add enough enough white stock stock (or light
a light Put pot-au-fa,t broth just cover broth see SOUPS SOUpS AND AND-BROTHS)
coier pot-au-feu BROTHS) to just - sec the meaL meat. Add Add 2 2 medium-sized
medium-sized carrots quarters, 2 carrots eut in quarters, cut in the medium-sized
onions onions one studded studded with with a a clove clove and a a medium-sized -
one - and garni consisting bouquet garni consisting of parsley, a of a a sprig
sprig of of parsley, a stalk stalk of of bouquet 2 leeks, leeks, a celery, 2 a
sprig of thyme thyme and sprig of and a a bay leaf. Season bay leaf. Season with
celery, salt. salt. Bring to remove scwn to the the boil, boil, remove scum and and
simmer with the lid simmer with lid .on on Bring pan 45 the pan 45 minutes minutes
to I hour. to 1 hour. the Take out pieces of out the the pieces lamb and of lamb
and remove remove small pieces of small pieces of Take and skin bone and which havè
skin which havi become become detached detached during during cooking. bone Put the
lamb into into a pan with the lamb a shallow shallow pan 12 small with 12 small
onions Put previously cooked (q.v.), and cooked in in a a cou court-banillon and
the the same previously ri-bouillon (q.v.), number of cooked cooked mushrooms.
nwnber of mushrooms. (q.v.) of Make a roux (q.v.) g.(2L a roux of 60 60 g. oz., 5
tablespoons) Make (2t oz., tablespoons) butter (3 oz., g. (3 and75 oz.,t cup)
flour. flour. Add Add the strained stock in which and 75 g. the strained "up) the
cooked, simmer for 15 minutes, skim, strain, lamb was was cooked, for 15 the lamb
and pour over the and pour over the lamb. lamb. gently for Simmer gently for 20 20
to minutes. Blend 4 egg yolks Simmer to 25 25 minutes. Blend in 4 yolks (6
tablespoons, mixed with 1 I dl. dl. (6 scant f cup) cream, cream, a a dash
tablespoons, seant t cup) mixed with of and a a pinch grated nutmeg. of lemon lemon
juice juice and pinch of of grated nutmeg. Keep Keep the blanquette do not
blanquelle hot hot but but do not allow allow to to boil. boil. Alternatively, cook
the and put the lamb lamb in in stock, stock, and put it it into into a
AJternatively, cook shallow pan with onions onions cooked cooked in the and the
shallow pan with in court-bouillon, and mushrooms. mushrooms. Keep Keep hot hot
with with the the pan pan covered. covered. Prepare Prepare (see SAUCE) Velouti
Velouté sauce sauce (see SA UCE) with with the stock stock in which the lamb was
cream and lemon juice, was cooked. cooked. Blend Blend with with egg egg yolks,
yolks, cream juice, to cloth, and to the the desired desired consistency,
consislency, strain strain through through a a tammy tammycloth, pour pour over
over the the lamb. lamb. Lamb's Lamb's braimbrains - See See OFFAL OFF AL or
VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Lamb's Lamb's breast breast. porrRrNE POITRINE
D'AGNEAUD'AGNEAU - This is is generally gencrally used for making ragofits ragolÎts
or or saut6 sauté dishes. dishes. It 1t can can also be be made made into for
making ipigrarnmes épigrammes (q.v.) (q.v.) and and is is used used instead of of
beef bœf to to prepare prepare country country soups soups (see (sec SOUPS SOUPS
AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Mutton Mu/ton broth). Lamb's Lamb's breast breast i il
I'englaise. l'anglaise. porrRrNE pOI'mrr'iE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A À r'aucL'ANGLAIsE
LAISE - Cook Cook the the breast breast as as in in the the recipe recipe for for
Lamb's Lamb's breast breast d ci la la diable diable (see (sec below) below) and
and leave leave to to get get cold under undcr a press. press. Cut into into
rectangular rectangular pieces, pieces, dip dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and
breadcrumbs breadcmmbs and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter.
Arrange Arrange on a long long dish, dot dot with with dabs dabs of of half-melted
half-melted Maitre MaÎ/re d'h6tel d'hô/el butter buller (see (sec BUTTER, BUTTER,
Compound Compound butters). bul/ers). Lamb's Lamb's breast breast fried frjed in in
batter. botter. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AcNEl,u D'AGNEAU EN EN FRrror FRITOT - Braise,
Braise, bone, bone, cool cool under under a a press press and cut eut the the
breast breast of of lamb lamb into into small, small, square square pieces. pieces.
Steep for for I 1 hour hour in in oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, chopped chopped
parsley, parsJey, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces
in in light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, dry, dry,
season season with with finely finely ground ground salt. salt. Arrange Arrange on
on a a napkin napkin in in a a pyramid, pyramid, garnish garnish with with fried
fried parsley, parsley, and and serve with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. Lamb's
Lamb's breast breast in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs wifr with various variollS
garnfuhes. garnishes. porrRrNE D'AGNEAU pAwEe- Cook pieces of breast, dipped in
POITRINE D'AGNEAU PANÉE - Cook pieces of breast, dipped in egg and breadcrumbs,
breadcrumbs, in in clarified clarified butter butter as as described described in
in the the egg and recipe Lamb's breast breast d à I'anglaise. l'anglaise. recipe
for for Larnb's

Arrange in in a a crown crown on on a a dish. dish. Fill Fill the middle of Arrange
the middle of the dish the dish garnish indicated. with the the garnish indicated.
Surround Surround with with a a border with border of of thickened veal veal stock.
stock. thickened Garnishes sui/able suitable for breast in breadcrumbs. Green Green
in breadcrumbs. Garnishes for breas/ vegetables blended purees of blended with with
butter butter or or cream; cream; purées various vegetables of various vegetables;
spinach, pur6e; rice spinach, leaf leaf or pilaf or or purée; rice pilaf risotto;
vegetables; or risotto; pasta products products with various pasta with butter
butter or or d d /'ilalienne, I'italienne, new new various potatoes in glazed, or
in butter; carrots, carrots, glazed, d la la Vichy. Vichy. or ci potatoes Lamb's
breast breast il i la la diable. diable. POITRINE ForrRrNE D'AGNEAU o'^l,cNe.au À A
LA Lamb's LA, DIABLE -- Braise Braise the the breast cook it breast or or cook it
in in a little white a !ittle white stock. stock. DIABLE Drain, and and remove
remove ail all the rib bones. Leave the rib Leave to cool under under a to cool a
Drain, press. Cut into rectangular pieces, pieces, spread Cut into spread these
press. these with with musmuspinch of pepper. Dip and a a pinch of cayenne cayenne
pepper. Dip in in melted butter and and tard and Sprinkle with butter grill. butter
and and cook cook on on a a low grill. breadcrumbs. Sprinkle in a a circle circle
on dish, and garnish garnish with on a a dish, with watercress. Arrange in (see
SAUCE). Serve with Diable sauce (see SAUCE). Serve porrRrNE D'AGNEAU Epigrammes of
lamb's breast. of lamb's breast. POITRINE D'AcNrau EN EN Épigrammes fprcn.lums --
Braise a lamb's breast or a lamb's or poach it in in very little little ÉPIGRAMMES
white stock. stock. Drain, bone, bone, and and cool cool under a a press. white
into heart-shaped pieces of Cut into heart-shaped pieces of uniforrn uniform size.
size. Dip Dip in in egg Cut egg and breaderumbs. breadcrumbs. and At the same same
time dip in egg egg and breadcrumbs a a number of At of similar in in shape shape
and size to the pieces of breast. lamb chops, similar pieces of breast under a Cook
the chops and and the pieees a low grill grill or Cook saut6 them bath both in
butter. sauté Arrange crown on a long dish. Decorate the end bones Arrange in a
erown paper frills. garnish in the middle with paper frills. Put the recommended
recommended garnish with of the dish. dish. Pour a a few few tablespoons (see
tablespoons of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see on the ipigrammes, or the
épigrammes, left over or the stock left over from SAUCE) on the stock braising the
breast, boiled down and strained. Garnishes sui/able suitable for ipigrammes of of
lamb. lamb. Ail All those those Garnishes for épigrammes recommended noisettes.
recommended elsewhere for lamb chops or noiselles. Sfitred breast r,mcn Slit
Stutred breast of lamb. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AGNEAU FARCIE - Sht pockets. Fill of
breast to the Fill them the pieces pieces of to form fonn pockets. them with with
fine forcemeat bound with an egg. Sew up the opening. opening. Wrap Wrap the pieces
in in thin in a of bacon. bacon. Braise Braise them them in a small pieces thin
rashers rashers of quantity of Jiquid. liquid. quantity Drain and glaze. on a a
dish Drain the pieces. Unwrap and glaze. Arrange Arrange on and as indicated.
Sprinkle with strained pan and garnish gamish as indicated. Sprinkle with the the
strained juices. juices. Stuffed breast of lamb can be served with all garnishes
Stu/fed breast of ail the garnishes recommended reeommended for for pieces pieces
of of braised braised lamb or mutton. Lamb chops. chopo. cOrsrnrrEs CÔTELETTES
D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU - Rib lamb chops chops are cut In France cdtelettes and and cut
from the rib rib roast. roast.ln France they they are are called ca lied côtelettes
in in England they are called cutlets. cutlets. Loin lamb lamb chops are cut eut
from the the loin and are known in French as c6tes.In côtes. ln England they they
are known known as lamb chops. chops. Chops are most often grilled, grilled, but
all aIl preparations preparations recommended mended in in the following following
recipes are suitable for rib chops chops (cutlets) (cutlets) or or lamb chops chops
cut from from the the loin. They They can be be served with the garnishes gamishes
recommended for Mutton MullOn catlets CUI lets with any of the (see (sec MUTTON). M
UTTON). Most Most frequently frequently these these garnishes gamishes consist
consist of of a green asparagus tips, tips, etc. etc. green vegetable, vegetable,
such as as beans, beans, peas, peas, asparagus dressed d ressed with wi th butter.
bu !ter. Lamb chops I à l'ancienne. l'ancienne. c6tersrrrs CÔTELETTF.S D'AcNEAU
D'AGNEAU A À L'ANL'ANcIENNE CŒNNE - Fry Fry the the chops in in butter. butter.
Arrange Arrange in in a crown on a a dish. Garnish the the middle with with a a
ragofrt ragoût of of lambs' lambs' sweetdish. Garnish breads, breads, cocks' combs
and kidneys, kidneys, truffies trumes and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound bound wth
with Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and cream. cream. Dilute
Dilute juices with the the pan panjuices with Madeira, Madeira, sherry sherry or or
other other similar similar wine, wine, add add a a little little light Iight Demi-
glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) and and pour pour over over
the the chops. chops. Garnish Gamish the the bones bones with with paper paper
frills. frills. Lamb Lamb chops chops i à I'anglaise. l'anglaise. c0relerrEs
CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A À t'^LNGL'ANGLAISE LAISE - These These are are
prepared prepared in in two two ways: ways: Grilled. Grilled. Season Season the the
chops, chops, dip dip in in melted melted butter butter and and breadbreadcrumbs
cnlmbs and and grill grill or or broil. broil. Arrange Arrange on on a a dish.
dish. Garnish Gamish with with grilled grilled strips strips or or rashers rashers
of of bacon, bacon, boiled boiled potatoes potatoes and and watercress. watercress.
536 536
LAMB
Sautied. Sautéed. Dip Dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs
and saut6 sauté in clarified butter. Arrange sprinkle Arrange in a crown on a dish
and sprinkle with Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound
Compound butters). with .llorbette Lrmb Lamb chops chops in in aspic jelly. jelly.
cdrnrerrEs CÔTELETTES u'l,cNE,q,u D'AGNEAU A À Le LA cel,6n a large lamb lamb loin,
neatly trimmed, in very GELÉE - Braise a little court-bouillon (q.v.). Allow to to
cool in its own strained little court-bouillon juices. juices. Drain and glaze with
Drain and cut cut into into chops. chops. Dry Dry them them and with jelly. jelly.
(The (The pan pan juices juices left left over over from from braising braising the
the cutlets should be be added added to to the the jelly jelly before before its
its clarification.) clarification.) Arrange Arrange the the chops chops in in a a
turban turban on on a dish. Garnish with chopped jelly, jelly, hardhardboiled cut
into quarters, lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, or with with mixed boiled eggs eggs
cut salads. or, as salads. Serve Serve with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise or or Tartare
Tartare sauce sauce or, as is is customary customary in in England, England, with
with Mint Mint sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, SA UCE,
Cold Cold sauces.'1 sauces.)

Instead Instead of of cooking cooking the the loin loin whole whole and and then
then cutting cutting it, it, the the chops Chaudchops can can be be prepared
prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Chaudfroid of of
larnb lamb chops chops (see (see below). below). froid Bar-man Bar-man lamb lamb
chops. chops. c6tnlrrrrs CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU BAR-MAN BAR-MAN Grill Grill
the the chops. chops. Garnish Garnish with with whole, whole, grilled grilled
tomatoes tomatoes and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Put Put a a rasher rasher of
ofgrilled grilled bacon bacon on on each each cutlet, cutlet, and and garnish
garnish with with watercress. watercress. Lamb Lamb chops chops in in breadcrumbg
breadcrumbs, garnished. gamished. cOrnrnrres CÔTELETIES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU peNfss
PANÉES cARNrEs GARNIES - Dip Dip the the chops chops in in egg egg and and
breadbreadcrumbs crumbs if ifthey they are are to to be be fried, fried, and and in
in butter butter and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs if if they the y are are to to be
be grilled. grilled. Fry Fry in in clarified clarified butter, butter, or or cook
cook under under the the grill grill on on low low heat. heat. Surround Surround
with with the the recommended recommended garnish. garnish. All Ali the the
garnishes garnishes for for fried fried lamb lamb chops chops are are applicable
applicable to to lamb lamb chops chops in in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Lamb Lamb
chops chops Brossard. Brossard. cOrersrrns CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU BRossARD
BROSSARD Dip Dip the the chops chops in in beaten beaten egg egg and and
breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with chopped chopped trufres. truffies.
Saut6 Sauté in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in a a crown crown on on a a
dish. Garnish the the middle middle of of the the dish dish with with mushrooms
mushrooms dish. Garnish cooked cooked in in cream. cream. Put Put a a border border
of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) round round the the
chops. chops. Lamb Lamb chops chops Champvallon. Champvallon. cOrer,errrs
CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU cHAMpCHAMPvALLoN VALLON - Choose Choose lower lower
ribs ribs from from salt salt meadow meadow lamb, lamb, cut cut fairly fairly
thick. thick. Proceed Proceed as as with with Mutton Mutton chops chops Champvallon
Champvallon (see (see MUTTON. MUTTON).

Lamb chops conn chops Conti. cdrBrnrrns CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU CONTI - Coat
the chops chops on on both both sides sides with with a a mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of
vegetables finely chopped and cooked in butter. Dip in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and
and fry in clarified butter. Arrange Arrange in a crown on a dish, alternating with
slices of ham ham cut in triangles and fried fried in butter. Garnish the the
centre of the the dish dish with a a fairly thick Lentil purie purée (se (see
PUREE). PURÉE). Surround Surround with with a a border border of Demi-glace Demi-
glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Lamb chops chops in in cr6pinettes.
crépinettes. cOTELETTBS CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU EN cnfplNsrrEs as Mutton chops
in in cripinettes crépinettes (see (see CRÉPINETTES - Prepare as MUTTON), MUTION),
or, instead of of braising braising them, fry them in butter before wrapping them
in pieces of thin salt salt pork or pig's caul. cauJ. Lamb chops Dubarry.
c6rrrnrrEs CÔTELETTES o'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DUBARRv DUBARRY Grill or fry the chops and
garnish with cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into florets and covered with
Mornay Mornay sauce (se, (see SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with Parmesan
Pannesan cheese. Brown Brown in the oven oyen or or under a grill. Lamb chops i à
la financiire. financière. c6TELETTEs CÔTELETTES o'.e,cNBAU D'AGNEAU A À ul LA
rN,c,NctiRE FINANCIÈRE - Fry Fry the chops. Add Madeira to the pan and and finish
finish off off the the sauce with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Arrange Arrange the the chops chops in a circle circle in a puff puff
pastry shell (not too too raised) raised) and and garnish garnish the the middle
middle with a a Ragofit Ragoût d à la financière (see RAGOOT). RAGOÛT). financiire
If If there there is is no no time time to to make make a a pastry pastry shell,
shell, the the chops chops can be arranged arranged in in a a crown, crown, putting
putting each each on on a a heart-shaped heart-shaped crofiton croûton fried fried
in in butter. butter. Lamb Lamb chops chops i à la frar4aise. française. cdrrrnrrrs
CÔTELETTES o'lcNeeu D'AGNEAU A À ul LA FRAN9ATSE 12 cutlets, put them them under a
press; press; when wh en FRANÇAISE - 'Fry 12 coat with with chicken quenelle
quenelle forcemeat. forcemeat. they are are cold, cold, coat they 'Put 'Put them
them on on a a metal metal sheet sheet greased greased with with clarified butter
butter and glaze with with egg. egg. Cook Cook in the the oven, oyen, painting
painting them with with and melted butter from from time time to to time, time,
until until nicely nicely golden. melted butter 'Prepare 'Prepare a a croustade
croustade (q.v.) (q.v.) from from a pieoe piece of of bread bread about about l0 10
cm. cm. (4 (4 inches) inches) in in diameter, diameter, scooped scooped out out in
in the the middle middle and and fried fried in in deep deep fat. fat. Put Put this
this croustade croustade in in the the middle rniddle of of an entrde entrée dish,
place place the the cutlets cutlets around around it it and and fill fill the the
middle middle with with fried dish, lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads and and
truffies. truffies. Glaze Glaze and and serve.' serve.' (Ic (La Grande Grande
Cuisine Cuisine simplifie, simplifée, by by Robert, Robert, 1845.) 1845.) Lamb Lamb
chops chops with with garnish. garnish. c6rer,srrEs CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU
s,lur6Es SAUTÉES cARNIES GARNIES - Season Season the the chops chops and and sautf
sauté them them in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them in in a a crown
crown on on a a dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with with vegetables vegetables or or
any any other other garnish garnish recommended recommended below. below. Dilute
Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add add
Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or veal veal stock, stock,
boil boil down, down, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the chops.
chops. or

Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of of lamb chops lambchops

Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of of lamb lamb chops. chops. c6rrrrrrrs CÔTELETTES

D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU EN EN cHAUD-FRop CHAUD-FROID- Braise Braise thick thick chops
chops in in very very little little liquid. liquid. Leave Leave to a press press in
in the the stock stock in in which which they they were were to get get cold,under
cold. under a
braised, braised, strained strained and and with with surplus surplus fat fat
removed. removed. When When they they are are quite quite cold, cold, drain, drain,
trim, trim, and and cover coyer with with Chaud-froid Ch au djro id sauce sauce
(see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) using using the the pan pan juices juices in in which which
the the cutlets cutlets were were cooked. cooked. Decorate Decorate with with
pieces pieces of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg whites, whites, truffies,
truffies, pickled pickled tongue, tongue, etc. etc. Glaze Glaze with with liquid
liquid jelly jelly and and leave leave in in a a cold cold place place to to set.
set. Lay Lay the the chops chops in in a a circle circle on on a a dish. dish.
Garnish Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. Chaud-froid of of lamb lamb chops
chops can can jelly. Serve Serve with with mint mint sauce. sauce. Chaud-froid be
be served served with with a a vegetable vegetable salad salad or or mixed mixed
salad. salado
537 537

GriUed lamb lambchops chopsserved served with with rice rice Grilled
LAMB
Garnishes lamb chops. chops. Green Green vegetables Garnishes suitable for lamb
vegetables; butter or cream; various braised ve~~et,lbll~s cream; various dressed
with butter potatoes prepared in various ways; pur6es purées of fresh or dried
garnishes, vegetables; pasta products; rice; risotto; and and the garnishes,
vegetables; simple or or mixed, mixed, recommended recommended for fil let steaks,
for small small fillet simple and médaillons midaillozs of veal, noisettes
tournedos, of veal, noisettes and tournedos, escalopes of

for

pe LÉGUMES CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU cnrur,Ess GRILLÉES GARNIES cARNIES DE

LEcuIrtEs cOTELETTES Season melted butter or oil, and cook Season the cutlets,
brush with melted

mutton or lamb. GriUed lamb chops chops garnished garnished with various
vegetables. with variors Grilld lamb

flame. Garnish Garnish with vegetables. Put paper under a moderate flame. friUs on
end bones. frills

garnished with with various various green Grilled chops can be garnished Grilled
chops can be
(asparagus tips, vegetables, dressed with with butter butter or or cream cream
(asparagus vegetables, young broad beans, French beans, beans, kidney beans, young
kidney beans, beans, garden French prepared in peas, peas, etc.); etc.); potatoes
prepared in different different ways; ways; braised pur6es of vegetables lettuce,
endive, etc.); purées of fresh vegetables (celery, lettuce, vegetables; marrows
(zucchini) or or aubergines aubergines cut in vegetables; small marrows dice and
sautéed oil; tomatoes lightly sautéed sauteed in sauteed in butter or oi!; butter
or in Brussels sprouts sprouts or or cauliflower sautéed saut6ed in or oil; oil;
Brussels butter in butter; cucumbers cut into into uniform and cooked in uniform
pieces and butter; butter; artichoke fried lightly in butter, etc. artichoke hearts
fried Lamb chops à D'AcNEAU À A L'ITALIt'metIc6rersrrEs D'AGNEAU i l'italienne.
I'italienne. CÔTELETTES ENNE - See d l'italienne. I'italimne. See MUTION, MUTTON,
Mutton chops à ENNELamb D'AGNEAU MAINLamb chopo Maintenon. Maintenon. CÔTELETTES
cdrsrerrEs D'AGNEAU TENON rENoN chops Maintenon. See MUTTON, Mutton chops - See
Lamb o'l,cNr.,q.u À A LA la maréchale. ln Lamb cbops marechale. CÔTELETTES
c0relsrrEs D'AGNEAU chops à la MARÉCHALE clarified u.lnfcuern Dip in egg and
breadcrumbs and fry in c1arified - Dip

fried, can can be Lamb chops, be braised, chops, instead instead of of being fried,
Lamb braised, allowed to get cold in the juices and then put into buttered papers.
over from braising will be used for moistenThe juices left over &txelles (q.v.).
ing the duxelles o'AcNerq,u À A LA t,l, la parisienne. CÔTELETTES il la c0rsrsrrEs
D'AGNEAU Lamb Lamb chops à pARTstENNB then in in breadbeaten egg, then in beaten -
Dip the chops in in clarified mixed with chopped chopped truffies. clarified crumbs
crumbs mixed truffies. Cook in a dish. Gamish Garnish the middle of butter. Arrange
in a crown in a butter. Arrange a border of cream. Put a the dish with mushrooms
cooked in cream. asparagus tips dressed with butter round the chops. as})araglLls
pfnnqrrre Lanb chops cOTELETTEs D'AGNEAU ni""","C..,."rD chops Périnette.
P6rinette. CÔTELETTES mixed with and breadcrumbs mixed with finely Dip in egg egg
and Dip the the chops in chopped cooked ham. Fry them in clarified butter. Arrange
in a crown alternating with rows of of baby marrows Arrange alternating with
(zucchini) eut in oil. oil. Garnish Garnish the cut in long slices and fried fried
in (zucchini) in long slices and (see FONDUE) middle of the with a a Tomato fondue
dish with fondue (see middle the dish mixed with sweet pimentos, cut in large dice
and fried in oil. p'l,cNEl,u À A LA Lamb Lamb chops il i la la portugaise.
CÔTELETTES cdreremEs D'AGNEAU poRrucArsE - Fry the lamb chops with chops in in
butter. Garnish with butter. Garnish oven or under a very small, stuffed tomatoes,
cooked cooked in the the oven juices witb pan juices grill. Dilute a little add a
Dilute the with white white wine, wine, add the pan puree with tomato purée with a
a finely or pounded c10ve clove of of finely chopped or pour tbis garlic blended
in, and pour this sauce over the chops. pRINcEssE D'AGNBAU PRINCESSE Lamb chops
princesse. CÔTELETTES cOrnlsrrEs D'AGNEAU describes the This name ~~,'VL'VV" the
following two methods of preparaand breadcrumbs, fry fry them l. Dip the in egg egg
and them in in the chops chops in with a dish. Gamish a circle on a Garnish with
clarified butter, arrange in a with butter and little bunches of asparagus tips
dressed with butter and little bunches of tips dressed (sen sauce (see coarsely
Serve with with Allemande Allemande sauce coarsely shredded truffies. Serve SAUCE)
based based on concentrated mushroom stock. in a a circle. 2. circle. Cover 2. Cook
the the chops chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in with with Allemande
sauce sauce based based on on concentrated mushroom and garnish the stock. op and
on each the a sliver of truffie Put a trufre on each ch chop stock. Put with
asparagus tips dressed with middle dish with middle of the tips dressed with
butter. the dish juices with Madeira and Dilute and thickened brown Dilute the the
pan juices stock. stock. Pour this over the chops. o'lcNelu À Lamb chops la
romaine. romaine. CÔTELETTES .4, LA r,A, Lamb chops à i la cdrsLsrrEs D'AGNEAU a
crown on on a a RoMAIM ROMAINE - Fry the chops in butter. Arrange in a alternating
with with rows rows of crofitons of dish, dish, alternating of heart-shaped heart-
shaped croûtons dish with fried in middle of the with Garnish the bread in butter.
butter. Garnish the dish bread fried the middle potato balls, and tossed in butter
tossed in cooked in small small potato balls, cooked butter and in conPour over
over the centrated meat meat stock. stock. Pour the chops chops Romaine sauce
centrated (see SAUCE) to which which the diluted with 2 2 table(see the pan juices,
diluted (3 tablespoons) wine vinegar, have been added. spoons (3 been added. Lamb
chopo Rmsini. CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU ROSSINI RossrNr - Fry c0rrt"errus D'AGNEAU and
arrange arrange on Put on on each a the chops in butter, and on a a dish. dish. Put
a gral fried in in butter and and 2 2 or 3 3 slivers trufle slice of foie gras
slivers of truffle slicr of (or any with Madeira (or tossed in in butter. butter.
Dilute the the pan juices with (se SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see similar
wine), add add SOrne some Demi-glace similar wine), chops. boil down, strain strain
and pour over the chops. u'AGNTAU A LA tn Lamb AGNEA U À Lamb chops la rouennaise.
CÔTELETTES c0rnt.srres D' chops li i la RoUENNATSE -- Fry in butter. cooked,
ROUENNAISE Fry the the chops chops in butter. When half cooked, onion add to the
pan 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped onion shallots. lightly
cooked in in butter, butter, and I teaspoon chopped shallots. a crown a dish,
alternating alternating on a Drain the chops. Arrange in a crown on Pour cro0tons
fried fried in in butter. with with rows rows of butter. Pour of heart-shaped
croûtons over the the following sauce: sauce: (+ pint" li pan juices with 3 lf
cups) utps) Demi-glace Dilute the panjuices 3 dl. dl. (! remove from from the Boil
for for 5 the sauce sauce (s* SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil 5 minutes, remove a heat and
stir chicken livers livers rubbed rubbed through a in 3 3 uncooked chicken stir in
(3 tablespoons) fine with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons) tablespoons (3 fine sieve,
sieve, blended blended with Calvados. allowing to Put the sauce the sauce without
allowing to boil. boil. Put Heat without Calvados. Heat gently and in 2 2 teaspoons
through a strainer. Heat gently and blend strainer. Heat blend in through a butter.
butter. o'acNE,q,u À le Lamb la sarladaise. A LA chops à i la cOrnurrns D'AGNEAU
Lamb chops sarladaise. CÔTELETTES SARLADAlSE chops or fry them in butter. Arrange
or fry them in sARLADATsE - Grill the chops

tion:

butter. put on a sliver a crown, and put on each a crown, and in a Arrange the
chops in of Garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips heated in butter. butter.
Garnish of truffie heated (see dressed butter. Put sauce (see Put a a border of
Demi-glace sauce dressed with with butter. SAUCE) mixed with Madeira Madeira and
butter around the chops. p'lctlElu À A LA Le Lanb chops il I la lrr mexicaine.
CÔTELETTES c0rnr,srrEs D'AGNEAU MEXICAINE the chops in butter. Arrange in a crown
on Fry MEXIcAINE a with bananas cut in in slices, middle with a dish dish and and
garnish the the middle bananas cut dipped in batter and fried. (for 6 Add 2
tablespoons Add to tablespoons (3 6 chops) 2 to the the pan juices (for pinq scant
cup) tablespoons) wine vinegar. Pour in 2 dl. (* pint, I brown brown veal stock.
Simmer to thicken. Add to it the peel of 1 and orange, well drained, drained, and
rinsed in in cold cold water, water, well orange, blanched, rinsed the chops.
finely shredded. Pour over the A LA Le MINUTELrn[JTE c6rnr,nrrrs D'AcNEAU À Minute
lamb chopc. CÔTELETTES in Beat the chops flat and season. Sauté Saut6 as briskly as
possible in sizzling butter. Arrange in a crown. Pour over the chops the butter
left in in juice and the and sorne lemon juice with a a dash dash of of lemon some
chopped the pan, with parsley added to it. D'AGNEAU MONMoNCOTTLETTES D'AGNEAU Lrmb
chops Montrouge. CÔTELETTES TROUGE and fry fry in in clarified egg and breadcrumbs
and TRoucE - Dip in egg butter. a crown a dish. dish. Garnish Garnish the the
middle on a in a crown on Arrange in butter. Arrange (see PUREE). Put purde (see
with with fairly thick thick Mushroom purée Put a a (see SAUCE) around border
border of buttered Demi-glace sauce sauce (see the chops. Lamb Lamb cbops chops
Paul Paul Mounet Mounet CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAu PAUL IAUL cdreI,nrrrs D'AGNEAU MOUNET
goose fat. MoUNET 6 chops in goose fat. Arrange them in a crown, - Fry 6 hpl'rt ..
"h<>n,>t1 cro0tons. alternating altemating with rows of fried fried heart-shaped
Put into into the 2 tablespoons (3 tab,lesIPOc)fls) the pan 2 tablespoons) Bayonne
ham drained, dried, and finely which has ham which has been blanched, drained,
shredded. When the ham is is lightly lightly browned the ham shredded. When browned
add 2 tablecdpes or caps, spoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) shredded cèpes or
mushroom caps, and saut6lightly. Add 2 c10ves cloves of garlic, also finely
chopped. chopped. ($ pint, I tablespoon wine vinegar, add Dilute with 1 wine
vinegar, add 2 2 dl. (t U CE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA scant cup) tomato-flavoured
tomato-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Cook for 5 minutes. Pour over over the chops.
papillotes. CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU EN Lamb chops en papillotes. cOrsr,rrrEs D'AGNEAU
EN pApILLorEs as described described in recipe for for Veal Veal in the the recipe
- Prepare as chops en papillote (see VEAL). VEAL).

538
LAMB LAMB in in a a ring ring on on a a layer layer of of Potatoes Potatoes d à la
la
fJO"""'biJY

sarladalse sarladaise (see (see POPO-

TATOES). T ATOES). Pour Pour around around the the potatoes several several
tablespoons tablespoons of of Pirigueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).
Lamb chops soubise. CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU souBrsE SOUBISE - Grill soubise.
c6rnlnrrrs or fry the chops. Arrange in a crown. Garnish orfrythe Gamish with with
a a fairly fairly tlick thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Lamb Lamb chops
cbops Talleyrand. TaUe'VI'and. c6rsrnrrEs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU
TALLEvTALLEYRAND Sauté the chops in in butter. butter. Arrange in in a crown.
crown. RAND - Saute Garnish Gamish the the middle of the the dish dish with with a
a fairly thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Pour Pour over over the the chops
chops the followirrg following soubise (see sauce: sauce : In In the the butter
butter left left over over in in the the pan, pan, lightly lightly fry diced
mushmushrooms rooms and and diced diced truffes. truffies. Dilute Dilute with with
sherry sherry and and add thick thick fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer for
for a a few few moments moments and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops.
Lamb Lamb chopo chops à la la Toulouse. Toulouse. cOTELETTES CÔTELETTES o'AGNEAU
D'AGNEAU A À L.q. LA ToulousEglazn in TOULOUSE - Braise Braise the the chops chops
and glaze in the the oven. oyen. Boil Boil down down the the stock stock until
until thick thick and and add add to to it it 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3
tablespoons) Madeira. Madeira. Arrange the the chops chops in in a a slightly
slightly raised raised puff puff pastry pastry shell shell (or in in a a circle on
on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter) butter) and and garnish garnish
them, them, in in the Ragoût d à la toulousaine toulousaine (see (see RAGOOT).
RAGOÛT). the centre, centre, with Ragorfrt Sprinkle Sprinkle the the chops chops
with with the the pan pan juices. juices. Put Put paper paper frills frills on end
bones. bones. end Lamb Lamb chops chops à la la turque. turque. cdrnr,rrrrs
CÔTELETTES o'.c,cNEeu D'AGNEAU A À LA, LA TUReUE TURQUE - Fry Fry the the chops
chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in a a circle circle on a a dish. dish.
Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of the the dish dish with Rice Rice pilaf
pilaf d à la turEte turque (see (see PILAF). PILAF). Dilute Dilute the the pan
juices juices with stock and Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se SAUCE), SAUCE), add a a
pounded pounded clove c10ve of of garlic garlic and pour pour over over the chops.
chops. and Lamb chops chops Villeroi. Villeroi. c6rersrrns CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU
D'AGNEAU vrLLERor VILLEROI Lamb See MUTTON, MUTTON, Mutton Multon chops chops d àh
la Villeroi. Villeroi. See Crépinettes of of lamb. 18mb. cnfpNnrrss CRÉPINETTES
n'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - Prepare Prepare like like Cr6pinettes r:n;nit:IPltp~ of ofpork
pork (see (see PORK) PORK) using using lamb lamb salpicon salpicon (q.v.). (q.v.).
Cripinettes of lamb lamb il la la p6rigourdine. périgourdine. cn6pNrrrss
CRÉPINETTES Cr6pinettes of D'AGNEAU A À le LA pfnrcouRDrNE PÉRIGOURDINE - Flatten
Flatten and and trim trim 6 6 lamb lamb D'AGNEAU cutlets, season season with with
salt and and pepper, pepper, and braise. braise. Allow to cutlets, cool in in the
the pan juices. juices. cool Prepare 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) finely finely
pounded pounded Pork forcemeat (see Prepare FORCEMEATS), add add to to it it 100
100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) foie gras, and 2 FORCEMEATS), Mix well. weIl. diced
truffies. truffies. Mix diced Drain the the chops and and dry them off. Coat on
both sides Drain with a a layer layer of of the above above forcemeat. toncenl1eat.
Wrap each cutlet in a with thin piece piece of of pig's pig's caul caul or or salt
salt pork, pork, making sure that that it it is is thin entirely closed. closed.
entirely Brush the the cripinetfes crépinettes with with melted melted butter,
butter, coat coat with with breadbreadBrush crumbs, and and cook cook under under a
a low low flame. fiame. crumbs, Lamb curry. curry. CARI CARl D'AcNEic,u D'AGNEAU -
Follow Follow directions directions for Lamb Curried mutton mutton (see (see
MUTTON), MUTION), reducing reducing the the cooking cooking time time Curried
slightly to to allow allow for for the the tenderness tende mess of of the the
meat. meat. slightly Double of of lamb. lamb. EoUBLE DOUBLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU -
This This is is a a joint joint comcomDouble prising the the two two legs of of the
the animal. animal. You Vou can can either either roast roast or or prising pot-
roast it. it. Garnish with with vegetables vegetables and and serve serve with with
its own pot-roast gravy, clear c1ear or or thickened, thickened, depending on on
vegetable vegetable chosen. chosen. ryavy, Cook for for l8 18 to to 20 20 minutes
minutes per 500 g. g. (l (lIb.) 18 minutes minutes lb.) plus l8 Cook at 200"C.
200°C. (400"F., (400°F., Gas Gas Mark 6). at AlI the the garnishes recommended for
for the the baron baron are are suitable suitable All for a a double of of lamb.
lamb. for Filets mignons mignons of of lamb. lamb. FTLETS FILETS MIcNoNs MIGNONS
D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - Small Fileb pieces of of lean lean meat meat found found on the
the bone bone of the the saddle. saddle. In pieces general, these these small small
fillets fillets are are left left with with the the big big fillets fiUets of of
the the general, saddle when when the the saddle saddle is is boned, boned, but but
they they can can also be be prepresaddle pared separately. (See MUTTON, Filets
Filets mignons of mutton.) pared Fillets of of lanb (U.S. loin of lanb). FrLErs
D'acNEAU - Half Fillets of the the saddle, saddle, boned, rolled rolled and and
secured secured with with string. It can can of be roasted, roasted, pot-roasted
pot-roasted or or braised. braised. be Ali methods methods of of preparation
preparation given given for for loin loin or or shoulder shoulder of All lamb are
are applicable. applicable. lamb

Fricass6e Fricassée of of lamb. 18mb. rnrclssm FRICASsÉE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - This

is the same same as the second recipe for Blanquette of larnb above. above. Lamb's
Lamb's head à I'6cossaisc. rBre o'lcNEAU A, À I'fcossnsn L'ÉCOSSAISE -

Singe and and carefully carefully clean clean the lamb's lamb's head. Cut in two
lengthwise. wise. Leave Leave to soak soak thoroughly thoroughly in cold water.
cour t-bouil lon (q.v.). court-bouillon Cook onions Cook the the 2 2 halves halves
of of the head head in in water water witl with carrots, on ions and celery celery
as as a pot-au-feu pot-au-feu (q.v.). (q.v.). (Cooking time time about 2

Remove separately in Remove the the brains, brains, which which are are cooked
cooked separately

hours.) hours.) Drain the head, put it in an ovenproof dish, brush with melted
butter and and put put in a very hot hot oven. oyen. Serve with with a white white
sauce to which I 1 tablespoon chopped and and blanched blanched sage and the diced
diced brains have been added. added. Stuffd Stuffed lamb's head head I à
I'anglaise. l'anglaise. tErE TÊTE o'^r,cNEq,u D'AGNEAU rencrs FARcœ A À L'ANGLAISE
L'ANGLAISE - Scald Scald the lamb's head and remove all ail bones. Fill FiU it it
with a stuffing d à l'anglaise, made made of chopped suet and breadcrumbs,
breadcrumbs, well seasoned seasoned and and mixed mixed with forcemeat made made
from minced lamb's lamb's liver Iiver and bacon. bacon. Wrap the lamb's Jamb's head
in a napkin and secure both ends with string. Brown Brown chopped bacon rinds,
carrots and onions in butter in a a braising braising pan. Put in the head. Add a
bouquet garni (q.v.) and and a clove. clove. Braise Braise for 30 minutes. Serve
with Pascaline Pascaline sauce prepared as as follows: Toss Toss I 1 chopped onion
in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter, and moisten with 2 dl. ($ (t pint,
scant scant cup) white wine. butter, Boil down and add 3 dl. (+ (t pint, pi nt, lf
It cups) white sauce. Bring bind with wi th 2 egg egg yolks and and add add 1
tablespoon to the boil, bind chopped, blanched blanched parsley, parsley, a dash of
oflemonjuice pin ch lemon juice and a pinch chopped, of cayenne pepper. ofcayenne
Lamb's kidney - See See OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. Lamb's GIGOT
D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - The best way to prepare Leg of lamb. crcor [eg of of lamb lamb
is is to roast, pot-roast pot-roast or or braise braise it. This joint, when leg
This jointo it is is big, can also also be be boiled, boiled, according to the
English English method. it Roast, pot-roast pot-roast or boiled leg of lamb can be
served with Roast, ail the garnishes gamishes recommended for for leg, leg, baron,
double double or all shoulder of of mutton. shoulder see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS,
METHODS, Average Average For cooking time see cooking times for roasts. roasted or
potThe leg of baby or milk-fed lamb is either roasted roasted. roasted. of lamb
lamb is served garnished garnished with watercress watercress and Roast leg of
quarters quarters of of lemon and and accompanied by its own gravy. It can also be
be served, as is customary customary in England, with Mint sauce also (see SAUCE,
Cold Cold sauces). sauces). Leg of of lamb A il I'anglaise. l'anglaise. crcor GIGOT
D'AGNEAU A À r'.lucI.AlsE L'ANGLAISELeg Season a leg of lamb, trim and bone it
almost completely. Wrap it in a a napkin, lightly buttered buttered and and
sprinkled Wrap sprinkled with fiour. Secure Secure with string. flour. 2
nll<lrtpn'rl quartered Put it into lightly salted boiling water with 2 carrots,2
with a a clove, and a carrots, 2 medium-sized onions, one stuck stuck with bouquet
garzr garni consisting consisting of a sprig of parsley, thyme, a a bay bouquet
leaf and and a clove clove of of garlic. garlic. leaf Cook the leg, simmering
simmering gently, allowing 15 15 to 20 minutes Cook (1 lb.). Drain, unwrap unwrap
it, and arrange on a a long long per 500 g. (l dish. Put Put vegetables vegetables
around around it. il. Serve Serve with Butter sauce sauce II Il (see dish. (see
with Butter teaspoons capers and ami SAUCE), to which has been added 2 teaspoons
the strained stock. of lamb boiled boiled d à l'anglaise can be be served with
pur6e of Leg of of or celery celery which which has been been cooked cooked with
with the leg, turnips or purée of of white beans. mashed potatoes, or pur6e Leg of
of lamb lamb i à la la bonne bonne femme. clcor GIGOT D'l,cNEl,u D'AGNEAU A À I^A
LA BoNNE BONNE Leg a leg of lamb, prepare as as described described in the FEMME -
Using a for Leg of muttond à la la bonnefemme (see MUTTON). MUTION). recipe for of
lamb la bordelaise. bordelaise. crcor GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A À rn LA gonoBORDLeg
of ELAISE - Cook Cook a a leg of of lamb in a a mixture mixture of of butter butter
and oil in a a ELAISE Wh en one-third done, done, add add 600 600 g. g. casserole.
When casserole. lb.) tiny cèpes or button mushpotato balls and 250 g. (9 oz.) fresh
clpes

(lf

539 s39
LAMB
rooms, lightly tossed in in oil. oil. Season. Cook in a slow oven. When the leg and
garnish sprinkle with Noisette gamish are cooked, sprinkle butter (see BUTTER,
Compound Compound butters) in which 4 table(see BUTTER, spoons (* (t cup) cup)
breadcrumbs with with 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and garlic garlic have been
fried. Leg Leg of of lamb lamb à la la boulangdre. boulangère. crcor GIGOT
o'.e,cNslu D'AGNEAU A À rA, LA sourA,I.IciRE BOULANGÈRE - Prepare like Shoulder
Shoulder of mutton d à la la boulangdre angère (see MUTTON). lsmb with various
Braised Braised teg leg of oflamb varions garnishes. clcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU BRAIsf
BRAISÉ - Prepare like Braised shoulder shoulder of of lamb lamb (see below), and
serve with the usual garnishes gamishes suitable for braised, potroasted or lamb.
roasted or roast mutton or lamb en cheweuil. Leg of oflamb chevreuil. crcor GIGOT
D'AGNEAU EN cHEvREUTL CHEVREUILPrepare, using a leg of lamb, as as described
described in the recipe for Leg mutton m ofmutton en chevreuil chevreuil (see
MUTTON). Leg of Parslied leg of lamb. crcor GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU psRs[Lf
PERSILLÉ - Leg of ordinary or milk-fed lamb, cooked in the oven or on a spit. When
When cooked, coat it with fresh breadcrumbs mixed with chopped cbopped parsley.
Press well weil to to make this this mixture adhere adhere evenly joint and put put
the leg leg back back in the oven until evenly all ail over over the the joint the
surface turns tums golden. Arrange on a a long dish, garnish with witb watercress
watercress and lemons cut eut in half. Serve with its own gravy. In the south-east
of France chopped chopped garlic garlic is added to the tbe south-east of parsley
parsley and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixture. mixture. Pot-roasted leg lamb with
with various garnishes. garnishes. clcor GIGOT leg of lamb D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU poBI-
6PO~LÉ - Leg Leg of of lamb lamb trimmed trimmed and pot-roasted in a casserole in
butter butter or other other fat, fat, but but without adding adding any casserole
in liquid. liquid. When the leg is cooked, put put it on a long dish and surround
surround leg is garnish desired garnishes recommended for it with the gamish
desired (all (ail garnishes baron, double, or loin of lamb). Pour over it the pan
juices juices mixed with white wine and thickened brown brown stock. lamb. clcor
Roast oflamb. GIGOT D'AGNEAU n6n RÔTI Roast leg of - Trim the leg at around the
knuckle knuckle and the knuckle knuckle end, end, loosen the flesh fiesh around
remove of the bone. Tie this part of of the leg remove most of leg with string.
cooking times see CULICook on a spit or in the oven. For cooking Cook NARY NARY
METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking timesfor roasts. garnish with Arrange
with a bunch of Arrange the tbe leg on a long dish and garnish (keeping a little
watercress. Serve Serve with the diluted diluted pan juices (keeping ]jttle fat in
them), halves oflemons, of lemons, and SAUCE). and Mint sauce (see (see SAUCE).
Lamb's 1iver. liver. ron FOIE D'AGNEAU - This is generally used with the rest of
the lamb's pluck to prepare a special dish called fressure. All Ali recipes for
calfs liver can also be used for lamb's liver (see OFFAL OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETY
MEATS). lamb is Loin of lamb. cmnf CARRÉ D'AGNEAU - Loin of lamb is often roasted.
All roasted. Ali garnishes garnishes recommended recommended for baron or double of
lamb are applicable to this cut. are served with their eut. They are own juices,
clear or thickened, depending on on the nature of also served with Mint the the
garnish. garnish. They They are are also served with MinI sauce sauce (see (see
SAUCE). SAUCE). Cook lb.) plus 15 l5 minutes Cook for l5 15 to 20 minutes minutes
per per 500 g. (l (lIb.) at 200'C. 200°C. (400'F., (400°F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 6).
Baby or milk-fed lamb loins, which are not very big, big, are usually usually pot-
roasted in butter butter or grilled. grilled. Loin lamb (U.S.) Loin of oflamb
(V.S.) See Fillets Fillets of of larnb. lamb. -See Loin of lamb ul lamb il à la la
Beauharnais. Beauharnais. cennf CARRÉ o'.l,cNnau D'AGNEAU A À LA BEAUHARNATS Trim
the the loin, season, brush brush with with melted melted BEAUHARNAIS - Trim butter
butter and grill or broil broil under under a gentle gentle heat. When When it it
is nearly

-
i

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i;iliil
i.:il:rl

Parslied lamb(Robert Parslied leg leg of oflamb (Robert Carrier)

s40 540
LAMB LAMB
cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with white white breadcrumbs and finish cooking cooking
under under the grill grill or broiler to brown brown the surface. surface. Put the
the meat meat on a a long dish, dish, garnish at each each end end with Noisette
potatoes (see POTATOES) and with little artichoke artichoke hearts hearts boiled in
court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), saut6ed sautéed in butter, and filled SAUCE)
fil1ed with Beanharnais Beauharnais sauce sauce (Bdarnaise sauce (see SA UCE) fini
shed offwith offwith a puree of of tarragon). tarragon). Surround the loin loin
with finished a border border of of buttered Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE).
SAUCE). Ioin Loin of lamb lamb à la bonne femme. cmn6 CARRÉ D'acunlu D'AGNEAU A À
LA BoNNE loin and BONNE FEMME FEMME - Trim Trim the the loin and brown brown in in
butter butter in in a cocotte (earthenware fireproof 12 lightly fireproof
casserole). casserole). Add Add 12 (9 oz.,l{ g. (9 fried oz., I~ cups) tiny potato
fried bacon rashers and 250 g. balls. Season, Season, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons
(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) balls. butter, cook in a slow oyen, oven, and serve in
the cocotte. Loin of of lamb lamb à la bordelaise. CARRÉ D'AGNEAU À LA Inin la
bordelaise. cARRf o'^lcNeeu A LA, BORDELAISE - Pare and trim the loin and brown
BoRDELATSE brown it lightly in a and oil in equal proportions in a mixture of
butter and a cocotte (q.v.). Add fried in oil, and potatoes potatoes cut down to
look Add cèpes cipes fried olives. Season, and and cook a slow cook in like small
small olives. in a slow oyen. oven. Add mixed with several tablespoons of brown
stock several tablespoons of brown with tomato stock mixed puree purée and
flavoured with a crushed c10ve clove of garlic. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Serve in in the cocotte. Loin of lamb à la la boulanglre. cARRÉ Inin o'^lcNr.lu À A
LA cARRE D'AGNEAU un BOULANGÈRE - Trim the loin. Prepare in an earthenware
sourfi.IciRE earthenware dish as Shoulder oJ of lamb à d la boulangire (see below).
u Shoulder maraîchère. CARRÉ Loin Loin of of lamb lanb in a cocotte cARRf D'AGNEAU
cocotte à i la msraichere. EN COCOTTE A LA cocorrE À r,l MARAÏCHÈRE rrrlndcr$nr --
Trim the loin and brown it in 24 small dish. Put into the the cocotte 24 butter in
an earthenware dish. (5 oz.) potatoes tossed ify cooked in butter, 150 g. (5 oz.)
sais salsify cooked in butter, 150 tossed in court-bouillon (q.v.) and and tossed
in butter, and 24 24 Brussels butter, and sprouts lightly blanched and tossed
tossed in butter. 4 tablespoons Finish cooking cooking everything together. Add 4
tablespoons together. Add (5 tablespoons) (5 in the the cocotte. stock. Serve in
tablespoons) thickened brown stock. Grilled Trim the Grilld loin loin of lamb.
CARRÉ cmnr D'AGNEAU GRILLÉ cntrrf -- Trim loin. Make a few few surface incisions in
the skin, season, season, brush with melted butter butter and grill (or broil)
under a low flame until both sides sides are golden. Arrange garnish with
watercress and and serve a long dish, Arrange on a dish, gamish serve (see BUTTER,
Maître d'hôtel with with half-melted d'hdtel butter half-melted Maitre butter (see
Compound butters\. o'lcNslu À A LA Ln cmnf D'AGNEAU Loin of lamb à la
languedocienne. cARRÉ LANGUEDOCIENNE lightly in in it Iightly lamb and and brown
brown it LANGT,JEDocTENNE the lamb - Trim the butter (or (or goose fat) 2 small
dish. Add Add 2 small an earthenware dish. fat) in in an onions tossed in ham, with
12 small pieces of smoked ham, in butter with 6 blanched garlic cloves and 200 g.
(7 oz.) small white c?pes oz.) small 200 g. or button mushrooms fried in a a slow
Season. Cook Cook in fried in in oil. oil. Season. oyen, and chopped parsley and
Sprinkle with chopped oven, basting frequently. Sprinkle serve rvas cooked. cooked.
in the dish in which it was serve in Loin of lamb à la D'AcNEAU À A LA Ntgonr la
nigoise. cARRÉ cmnf D'AGNEAU Trim a an eal~thlemlVal'e earthenware in an in butter
butter in a loin of lamb and brown brown in cocotte (or a peeled, (q.v.). Add a
baby marrow) peeled, zucchini (or baby marrow) Add zucchini cocotte (q.v.). diced,
and tossed a large peeled, seeded cut tomato cut seeded tomato butter;a tossed in
butter; potatoes, into pieces and and about about 20 20 small new potatoes, oil;
and and fried fried in oil; cut to a in a a and pepper. Cook Cook in a uniform
size. salt and size. Season with salt slow in the the with chopped chopped parsley.
Serve in oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with slow oyen. cocotte. Loin NoUILLES o'lcNEAU
AUX AUx NOUILLESwith noodles. noodles. cARRÉ cmnf D'AGNEAU Lnin oflamb of lamb widl
'rna (q.v.). Trim a cocotte cocotte (q.v.). and cook it in butter in cook it Trim
the loin of of lamb and When ove it from Add from the cocotte. Add remove the
cocotte. nearly cooked, cooked, rem When nearly noodles, and tossed water, drained,
drained, and tossed in salted salted water, noodles, freshly freshly boiled in in
(see BUTTER, butters), to to the the BUTTER, Compound Compound butters), rn
Noisette Noisette butter butter (see cocotte. in the the together in Finish cooking
cooking together Put the loin back. back. Finish cocotte. Put the loin oyen. brown
few tablespoons of thickened thickened brown with a a few oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle
with tablespoons of stock. stock. Loin D'AGNEAU PARMENTIER PARMENTIER lamb
Parmentier. clnnf D'AGNEAU Loin of of lamb Parmentier. CARRÉ Brown pan 250 g. a pan
250 g. lamb in Put in in a loin of in butter. butter. Put of lamb Brown a a trimmed
trimmed loin (9 cups) (9 oz., potatoes. Season with and sprinkle sprinkle with
Season and cups) diced diced potatoes. oz., melted a slow oven. Place Place in a
slow oyen. cooking together together in melted butter. Finish Finish cooking

tl

juices with add white wine, wine, add with white on a on a dish. dish. Dilute
Dilute the the pan pan JWces with thickened veal veal stock, and pour over the
loin. Sprinkle with parsley. chopped parsley. garnishes. CARRÉ c.mnf with varions
various gamishes. of lamb Pot-roasted loin loin of lamb with pot-roast in and pot-
roast a loin loin of of lamb lamb and D'AcNEAU Trim a D'AGNEAU poErf POÊLÉ - Trim
chosen as add the the vegetables cooked, add butter. Wh en half cooked, vegetables
chosen butter. When garnish and and finish cooking cooking together. with garnish.
and surround loin in a dish dish and surround with Arrange the the loin in a white
wine, blend blend in in thlck(~m:d thickened with white Dilute the pan juices with
brown stock, and pour over the meat. and garseparately, and be cooked separately,
The pot-roasted loin may be garnishes recommended for recommended for the gamishes
nished with one or other of the baron or double of lamb. garnishes can added to can
be to the the loin during be added The following gamishes (hearts or quarters),
diced diced aubergines aubergines cooking: artichokes (hearts in previously tossed
in butter or oil, new carrots half-cooked in nrp,vu'I1l<:llv of fied in oil or
butter, various types of butter and water, cipes fried large dice, cut in in large
marrows cut sprouts, marrows mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, glazed turnips, glazed
half-braised Chinese artichokes, half-cooked turnips, in salsify cooked in diced or
shredded potatoes, salsify onions, small on ions, diced and tossed in butter.
tossed in court-bouillon (q.v.), drained and garnished with with the the lamb can
also be loin of lamb can also be gamished Pot-roasted loin or prepared in various
ways, pur6es of of fresh or following: pasta prepared of tomatoes, tomatoes, or
risotto, fondte of rice pilaf or dried vegetables, rice dried soubise, etc. etc.
soubise, D'AcNEAU -- Another lamb. MÉDAILLONS ufomroNs D'AGNEAU Medallions
Meddlions of of lamb. Lanb noisettes (see below). name for Lamb D'AGNEAU - Name
lamb. MIGNONNETTES MIGNoNNETTES D'AGNEAU MignoruJettes Mignonnettes of lamb. l-amb
noisettes noisettes (see below). for Lamb often used used for as BeeJ Beef hash
hash D'IcNEAU -- Prepare Prepare as n,c,cHls D'AGNEAU Minced Minced lamb. lamb.
HACHIS (see HASH). with Prepared with D'.a,cNEAU -- Prepared MoLISSAKA D'AGNEAU
Lamb Lamb moussaka. MOUSSAKA (see Mutton moussaka moussaka (see aubergines like
like Mutton lamb and and aubergines minced minced lamb

MUTTON).
pieces of of D'AGNEAU -- Delicate Delicate pieces NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU Lamb
noisettes. NOISEITES They are are trimmed loin of of lamb. lamb. They trimmed rib
or or loin meat meat taken from the the rib taken from varies between Their weight
varies into round, thick fiUets. fillets. Their round, rather thick (3 and g. (3
and4 oz.). 75 4 oz.). and 100 100 g. 75 and D'AGNEAU SAUTÉES NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU
lamb. NOISETTES Sautéed of lamb. slurfrs -Saut6ed noisettes of and sauté Season and
saut6 Trim and flatten Trim the flatten them them lightly. Season the noisettes and
and oil. a mixture of of butter oil. oil, or or a butter and briskly in in
clarified butter, oil, Gamish. Garnish. fried on croûtons crofitons fried served on
Sautéed noisettes are are sometimes sometimes served Saut6ed noisettes as
foundations. foundations. in in butter or or on on various garnishes as recipes
found in in the will be the recipes Garnishes and sauces them will be found
Garnishes and sauces for them given all those those given these recipes, ail which
which follow. follow. In In addition addition to to these well as as weil as those
those elsewhere or médaillons midaillons of beef, as for tournedos tournedos or
elsewhere for to applied to mutton cutlets, cutlets, can can be be applied
indicated for lamb lamb or or mutton indicated for noisettes. noisettes. in cooking
most commonly used in The and gravies most commonly used The stocks stocks and also
be made of Stock can can also be made are veal, chicken or or beef. beef. Stock on
veal, are based based on lamb and bones. lamb and and mutton bones. mutton trim!
nÏngs trimmings and n'Actselu À NoISETTES D'AGNEAU A Lamb I'alg6rienne. NOISETTES
Lamb noisettes noisettes à i l'algérieruJe. given for for in the recipe given
L'ALGÉRIENNE as described described in the recipe Proceed as r.'lr,cfnIruxn -
Proceed (see BEEF). Tournedos BEEF). Tournedos à l'algtrienne (see d l'algérienne
NoISETTBS D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Lamb Armenonville. NOISEITES Lamb noisettes noisettes
Armenonville. arrange on a ARMENONVILLE noisettes in in butter, on a ARMENoNvInT --
Sauté Saute the the noisettes butter, arrange (see POTATOES), garnish with with
POTATOES), gamish foundation foundation of of Anna Anrw potatoes (see a morels
combs and kidneys. Serve Serve with with a and kidneys. and cocks' morels in in
cream cocks'combs cream and juices, mixed white wine wine and and sauce mixed with
with white made of of the the pan juices, sauce made thickened veal stock.
thickened veal Lamb D'AGNEAU BÉATRl.X sflrRlx -NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU Lamb noisettes
noisettes Béatrix. B6atrix. NOISETTES Sauté and place on on fried fried croûtons.
crofitons. noisettes in in butter butter and Saut6 the the noisettes in butter,
Garnish fried in butter, morels or or other other mushrooms fried Garnish with with
morels very in butter, small quarters of cooked in butter, small very small of
artichokes artichokes cooked small quarters potatoes in with a a glazed glazed
carrots in butter. Serve with butter. Serve and new new potatoes carrots and juices
mixed pan juices and sauce with sherry mixed with sherry and made from from the
sauce made the pan thickened thickened veal veal stock. stock.

it

l|

541 541
LAMB
Lamb noisettes Beauharnais. Beauharnais. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU
BEAUBEAUnoisettes in Saut6 the the noisettes on fried in butter. butter. Place
Place on - Sauté crottons. Garnish with very small artichoke artichoke hearts
filled Garnish with croûtons. very small with a puree with thick thick Bdarnahe
Béarnaise sauce (see (see SAUCE) with with a purée of tarragon added and tiny tiny
potato balls. with a added to to it, it, and balls. Serve with sauce made from from
the pan juices mixed mixed with Madeira and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE)
with chopped trufres truffies added to it. iL Lamb noisettes Carignan. NorsETTEs
NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU CARTcNAN CARIGNANSaut6 Sauté the noisettes in butter
and place on a a foundation of Anru Anna potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES). POT A
TOES). Garnish Garnish with very small quarters of artichokes cooked in butter, and
asparagus asparagus tips dressed dressed with butter. Put between the the noisettes
noisettes very small small 'eggs' made made of of Duchess potato mixture (see
POTATO), dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, egg and pur6e of fried, hollowed a purée
holllO\iVed out and filled with a of foie gras with truffies. Serve with a sauce
made from the pan juices mixed with port and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see
SAUCE). ""rl,U'~JL,'. Lsmb Lamb noisettes chasseur. cbasseur. NorsETTBs NOISETTES
D'AGNEAU cHAssEUR CHASSEUR Saut6 noisettesina Sauté the noisettes in a mixture
mixture of of butter butter and oil. Serve Serve with a sauce made from the pan pan
juices mixed with Chasseur sauce sauce
HARNAIS HARNAIS (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

125 and I 125 g. (4 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) chopped mushrooms and 1 teaspoon teaspoon
chopped shallots. Dilute Dilute with white wine and moisten with veal stock and a
little SAUCE). httle Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Lamb noilsettes
noisettes Cussy. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU cussy CUSSY - Saut6 Sauté,
the noisettes the noisettes in in butter butter and and arrange on on fried fried
cro0tons. croûtons, Garnish Gamish with little Httle artichoke hearts filled with
mushroom mushroom puree purée and sprinkled sprinkled with breadcrumbs. Serve with
a sauce sauce made from the juices mixed with Madeira and Demi-glace sauce SAUCE).
sauce (see (see >J""."'-JL1. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes Duroc" NoIsETrEs
NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DtrRoc DUROC - Proceed as for Lamb noisettes small
noisettes chasseur. chasseur. Garnish Garnish witl with very smal! potato potato
balls balls fried in butter. Sprinkle with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Lanb
Lamb nofuettes noisettes à I'italienne. NorsETTBs NOISETTES D'AcNBAU D'AGNEAU A À
L'ITALENM the noisettes in oil. L'n ALIENNE - Saut6 Sauté the oil. Arrange on on
fried cro0tons croûtons and put on each noisette noisette a small smaU slice of
lean ham fried fried in oil. oil. Serve with a a sauoe sauce made from from the the
pan juices mixed with ltaliut Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Saut6
Lamb noisettes Melba. Melba. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU MBLBA MELBA - Sauté ttre
the noisettes noisettes in butter, arrange on on fried cro0tons, croûtons, garnish
with braised lettuce hearts, or with small smaU tomatoes stuffed with a mixture of
of chicken, truffies and mushrooms, bound bound with with Veloutd Velouté sauce
(see (see SAUCE). Brown Brown in in the the oven oyen or under un der a grill.
Serve with a sau@ sauce made from the pan juices mixed with Madeira Madeira and and
Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU
MoNTMONTLamb noisettes Montpensier. NoIsETTEs PENSIER PENSIER - Saute Sauté the
noisettes in in butter, butter, arrange on on fried the noisettes crofftons,
croûtons, and and garnish with coarsely shredded shredded trufres and asparagus
asparagus tips tips both fried fried in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with with a
a sauce sauce made from the pan juices juices mixed with Madeira and and Demighce
SAUCE). glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Lamb noisettes Nichette. Nichette. NorsETTEi
NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU NrcrrETTE NICHETTE Lamb Grill the noisettes noisettes
and put each on a cake made of Duchess potato (see (see POTATOES) cooked in the the
oven until golden. Garnish Gamish with cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys. Put a
grilled grilled mushroom room filled with grated horseradish on top of of each
noisette. noisette. Serve Serve with Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).
Lamb noisettes noisettes à la nigoise niçoise I. 1. Norsrrrrs NOISETTES D'aclrslu
D'AGNEAU A À r,A LA NtgoIsE NIÇOISE - Saut6 Sauté the noisettes noisettes in oil
and garnish d à la nigoise niçoise (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Serve with a sauce
made from the pan juices juices diluted with white wine and and tomato-flavoured
tomato-flavoured veal veal stock. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes à la nigoise
niçoise II. Il. NorserrEs NOISETTES p',r.cNreu D'AGNEAU A À la LA NIgoIsE
NIÇOISESauté the noisettes noisettes in oil oil and garnish gamish with with small
small new - Saut6 potatoes tossed tossed in butter, butter, and and French beans
beans in butter. butter. Put Put on

Alternatively Alternatively one can remove the noisettes as seon soon as they are
are cooked cooked and and put put into into the the same same pan pan (for (for 8 8
noisettes)

il

I tablespoon Tomato fon&te each noisette noisette 1 fondue (see FONDUE). made from
sauce made from the Serve with a a sauce the pan juices diluted with white wine and
tomato-flavoured tomato-fiavoured veal stock. Lamb noisettes noisettes Rivoli.
Rivoli. NoIsETTES D'AGNEAU RJvoLI Lamb NOISETTES D'AGNEAU Saute the noisettes in
butter, arrange on Anna Sauté Anna potatoes (see POTATOES), and a sauce sauoe made
made from the pan POTATOES), and serve with with a juices Madeira and and Demi-
glace sauce (*e juices mixed mixed with with Madeira Demi-glace sauce SAUCE) SA U
CE) with wi th trufles truffies added to it. i t. These can be served in a cocotte
(q.v.). Lamb noisettes NorsETTEs D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU Lamb noisettes Saint-Germain.
Saint-Germain. NOISETTES SAINT-cERMAIN SAINT-GERMAIN Proceed as as described in the
the recipe recipe for described in - Proceed Tournedos Saint-Germain Saint-Germafu
(see BEEF). A t.e. noisettes I Lamb noisettes à la la turque. turque. NorsETTEs
NOISETTES D'l,cNEeu D'AGNEAU À LA Lamb TUReUE Saut6 the noisettes TURQUE noisettes
in butter, garnish with Rice - Sauté pikf d la Ia turque (see PILAF) and aubergines
aubergines cut cut in large dice pilaf à and with a a sauce and fried fried in in
oil. Serve from the pan Serve with sauce made from juices diluted with tomato-
flavoured tomato-fiavoured veal veaJ stock. Lamb noisettes I il la Valenciennes.
Valenciennes. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU A VALENCIENNES - Sauté Saut6 the
noisettes in butter LA VALENCIENNES butter and put each a little d la la
Valenciennes (see on little mound mound of rice à (see GARon a of rice NISHES).
NISHES). Serve with with a a sauce sauce made from from the the pan pan juices with
white wine wine and diluted with and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal
stock, with a pounded clove of garlic added to it. with vegetables. vegetables.
NoIsETrEs NOISETTES Lamb noisettes noisettes garnished with noisettes in D'AcNEAU
GARNTEs lux LÉGUMES lEcurr,rrs Saut6 the the noisettes D'AGNEAU GARNIES AUX - Sauté
garnish with butter or them, gamish with the the vegetables vegetables recombutter
or grill them, mended. mended. Sprinkle the the saut€ed sautéed noisettes very
lightly with a sauce made from the pan juices, diluted diluted and boiled down, or
with a thickened Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). The following vegetables The
vegetables are used for for garnishingnoisettes: garnishing noisettes: quartered
hearts of artichokes, sautéed fried aubergines, aubergines, saut6ed or fried ftied
cdpes and fried and other mushrooms, braised endive, kidney kidney beans in butter,
sautéed cucumbers cut cut into Înto beans saut6ed Brussels sprouts, cucumbers
uniform pieces and cooked in butter, stewed Chinese arti(okra), French gumbos
(okra), chokes, French beans chokes, stewed beans in in butter, butter, stewed
gumbos in butter or d à la frangaise, française, asparagus asparagus braised
lettuce, peas in tips in butter, etc. The noisettes The noisettes can also also be
be garnished with with puree purée of fresh vegetables, such as chicory spinach.
chicory or spinach. Pascaline of lamb. pAscALrNE PASCALINE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -
Plumerey, who Pascaline continued continued Car0me's Carême's work, work, gives a a
recipe for for this this rather rather complicated coml=.lic.at(:d dish. dish. He
says that he wrote wrote it from the dictation of the old controller controller of
of the Prince de Conti's household, but of he himself himself never never tried it
out. 'Scald perfectly perfectly 4 lambs' heads and put them to soak, as brains and
4 tongues. Take 3 lambs' weil as as the the 4 sets of brains well mince with fresh
bacon, bacon, fines fines herbes, salt, pepper livers, and mince lambs' feet with
spi ces, to make make into forcemeat. Cook 12 12lambs' and spices, the tongues
tongues in a court-bouillon. court-bouillon. 'Cook 'Cook the the brains brains
separately in in a a white white court-bouillon. Wh en the tongues ton gues and
brains are are cooked, cut cut them them into into large When dice with mushrooms,
and and shape them into 12 croquettes. 'Now 'Now take the the 4 blanched heads of
lamb and fill with the of them them several forcemeat. Sew them up securely. Put on
top of slices of oflemon. Coyer with bacon bacon and cook cook them in a covered
covered lemon. Cover slices casserole on a bed ofvegetables. of vegetables. 'Have
'Have a dozen lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads ready. ready. Keep the doz.en larded
lambs' a smooth smooth sauce (Velouté - se see SAUCE), SAUCE), throats. Prepare a
sauce (Veloutd into which you have put 2 2 handfuls of mushrooms. Boil into down
and bind with 6 egg yolks. Take the heads out of the casserole, drain, drain,
remove thread, thread, arrange arrange on on a a long long dish, dish, casserole,
nose part facing outwards. outwards. Cut each foot in two and put 3 3 halves halves
between between each each head. head. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over and
and put around them them 12 12 fried fried croquettes, 12 larded larded lambs'
lambs' sweetbreads and and 12 12 crofitons croûtons of bread cut to look like
cocks' combs, fried in butter. Add the lambs' throats and and mushrooms to the the
sauce sauce and and cover cover the heads with with it. Alexandre Dumas Dumas pdre,
père, who who wrote wrote a a gastronomical gastronomical Alexandre
542
LAMB LAMB
dictionary, gives gives for the preparation of Pascaline Pascaline of lamb the the
following following recipe, recipe, different different from that that given given
by Plumerey: Plumerey: of lamb i à la royale. pAscALINE PASCALINE o'AcNreu D'AGNEAU
A À L.l, LA Pascaline of Pascalire RoyALE ROY ALE - 'The custom of serving a lamb
whole whole on on Easter Easter until the the time of Louis XVI. Sunday was kept in
France until is how how the the dish dish was was prepared: prepared : This is This
'The of a six-month-old six-month-old lamb lamb was boned, the breast breast 'The
neck of through and and the the shoulder shoulder bone bone broken broken and bone
sawn sawn through bone of the legs were also trussed to to the the breast. breast.
The The 2 shank shank bones of trussed sa me manner. broken and and fastened in the
same broken 'It was stuffed with a forcemeat of pounded lamb, lamb, yolks hard-
boiled eggs, eggs, stale fines chopped fnes of hard-boiled stale breadcrumbs and
chopped seasoned with with 4 spices. spices. herbes, and seasoned herbes, fiesh was
carefully larded and put to roast before a 'The flesh big fire. It was served
whole, as as a separate course, after the a ragoût a green green sauce ragofrt of
truffi.es truffies sauce or on on a soup, either with a ham jelly.' cooked in ham
Pâté of of lamb lamb t à la perigourdine périgourdine P0t6 PATE. See PÂTÉ. - See
p'r,cNEitu A à la la languedocienne. ToURTE TOURTE D'AGNEAU À LA pie I Ll Lamb pie
LANGUEDOCIENNE - Puff Puff pastry pastry pie with with a fiJling filling of of
smalliamb small lamb LANGUEDocTrNNE noisettes sautéed noisettes saut6ed in butter;
salsify cooked in Court-bouillon IX (see COURT-BOUILLON), cut into pieces and
tossed tossed in IX(see butter; sliced mushrooms; and blanched olives. olives. Put
mushrooms; stoned stoned and these ingredients into a pastryJined pastry-lined dish
on a layer of finely finely these (see FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see pounded Pork
forcemeat with a FORCEMEAT). Dot with a piece of rolled-out pastry, few dabs of
butter. Cover with a egg and 45 minutes. and bake in the oven oven for for 40 40 or
45 brush with egg Pour into the pie a down Demia few tablespoons of boiled boiled
down glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE), fiavoured glace flavoured with Madeira. Lamb
pilaf. PILAF like Mutton Mutton pilaf Prepared like rner D'AGNEAU -- Prepared
PILAF). (see PILAF). Lamb's pluck AL or V ARIETY MEATS. OFFAL VARIETY See OFF - See
Lamb parts which D'AcNEAU The parts are ragoOt. RAGOÛT which are n^lco0r D'AGNEAU
Lamb ragoût. - The most suitable ribs, neck, shoulder and and are lower ribs,
suitable for this dish are breast. breast. Ragoût (A A BLANC nrlxc (À I'anglaise.
RAGOÛT RAc,otT D'AGNEAU À Ragofft of lamb à i l'anglaise. L'ANGLAISE) g. pan, in
layers, 750 750 g. r',lNcrusr) -- Put Put into into a a pan, in alternate alternate
layers, 01 (l+ lb.) pieces and medium-sized sliced lb.) lamb lamb cut in pieces and
3 3 medium-sized sliced cut in potatoes mixed . potatoes 2 medium-sized onions.
chopped onions mixed with medium-sized chopped with 2 Season, gorni (q.v.). (q.v.).
Pour in enough water water Season, and add a a bouquet bouquet garni or light
fairly briskly with a a light stock to cover the meat. Cook Cook fairly the meat.
lid lid on on the pan. Heap in a parsley. and sprinkle chopped parsley. a deep deep
dish dish and sprinkle with chopped Ragoût o'lcxeau À la bonne RAcofr D'AGNEAU A LA
rA, I la bonne femme. femme. RAGOÛT Ragofit of lamb à BONNE g. (l* lb.) lb.) lamb
lamb in in clarified clarified fat, fat, BoNNE FEMME FEMME -- Brown Brown 750 750
g. and pinch of and a a pinch sugar. Sprinkle Sprinkle of sugar. and season season
with salt, salt, pepper and with 2 (3 tablespoons) lightly. flour and and brown
brown lightly. 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour Moisten with i (l$
pints, pints, li a bouquet lt pints) water, water, add add a bouquet f litre O~
garni (q.v.) and garlic. clove of of garlic. and 1 crushed clove I crushed Cook
with a Drain the lamb, for 40 40 minutes. minutes. Drain the lamb, a lid on on the
the pan for trim, pan. pieces back in the back in and put the the pan. trim, and
the pieces 3 cups) Add 500 (18 oz., potato balls and 12 12 small g. (18 cups) small
500 g. o2.,3 balls and small small potato onions pan for a lid lid on for lightly
fried in in butter. with a on the the pan onions lightly butter. Cook Cook witb 40
(3 tablespoons) 40 to 45 minutes. minutes. 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons) tomato
tomato to 45 tablespoons (3 sauce can he be added. added. sauce can Ali (q.v.) can
given for ragofrts given for mutton mutton (q.v.) can he be used used for for All
the the ragoûts lamb. lamb. Rib (U.S.) -- See lamb. roast of lamb (U.S.) Loin of of
lamb. Rib roast of lamb Se Loin Saddle le of o'.l,cNEeu -- The The sadd lamb can
can of lamb, SELLE snLLE D'AGNEAU saddle of lamb Saddle oflamb. be prepared by pot-
roasting or like Saddle Saddle be prepared roasting, pot-roasting or braising,
braising, like by roasting, of (see MUTTON). garnishes recommended recommended
mutton (see All the the garnishes of mutton MUTTON). Ali for for mutton mutton can
applied to to it. it. can he be applied The roasted or is either either roasted or
milk-fed lamb lamb is The saddle saddle of baby or or milk-fed of baby pot-roasted.
le usually pot-roasted. This remains attached attached to to two two This sadd
usually remains saddle legs joint known known as as the legs of the animal, animal,
which which constitutes constitutes the the joint the of the baron baron of lamb.
of lamb. Sautéed D'AcNEAU -- Prepared Prepared from from the Saut6ed lamb. lamb.
SAUTÉ s.lur6 D'AGNEAU the same same parts parts of are used for ragoûts. ragofits.
of the the animal animal as as are used for
pieces. Brown in butter l| kg. (3* lb.) boned lamb into pieces. Cut It Season. with
a carrot and an onion cut in quarters. Season. and put into a Remove the lamb with
a a perforated spoon and Remove the recipe chosen. saut6 pan with the garnish
indicated in the sauté juices with 2 pint, scant cup) cup) white 2 dl. dt. (~
Dilute the pan juices $ pint, (i recipe, and and add add 4 4 dl. dl. (,f on recipe,
wine, depending on wine or other wine, wine (6 tableI dl. pint, scant 2 cups)
thickened brown stock and dl. (6 and 1 a fine pur6e. Strain Strain through fine
through a cup) tomato purée. spoons, scant scant t spoons, + cup) and pour over the
the lamb. strainer and (q.v,) and in the and finish cooking in the oven a bouquet
garni (q.v.) Add a for 25 minutes with a lid on the pan. A L'ANCIENNEL'ANcIENNE
o'lcNElu À lamb I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. SAUTÉ sAur6 D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lambà
Sautéed pieces and in butter. Add Add and sauté Bone and saut6 in and cut the lamb
into pieces Bone half and half blanched and 125 g. (4 oz.) lambs' sweetbreads
(soaked, blanched (8 oz.) g. (8 lightly 225 g. oz.) small in butter), small
mushrooms lightly cooked in butter), 225 (4 oz.) cocks' g. (4 combs and and
kidneys, kidneys, 125 g. cocks' combs and 125 tossed in butter, and pan with the
pan cooked in a white court-bouillon (q.v.). Moisten with pint, Madeira, to which
which scant cup) cup) Madeira, juices diluted with 2 dl. (t t, scant $ pin (see
SAUCE) (+ pint, and 2 2 dl. dl. pint, li Veloutt sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and lf
cups) cups) Velouté dl. (1 3 dl. added. have been pint, scant fresh cream cream
have been added. cup) thick scant cup) thick fresh (t $ pint, gently for 20 20
minutes. minutes. and strain. simmer Season and strain. Leave to sim Season mer
gently cro0tons fried fried in in butter. butter. heart-shaped croûtons Garnish
with heart-shaped D'AcNEAU AUX At.rx seurE D'AGNEAU lamb with with artichokes.
artichokes. SAUTÉ Sautéed SautH lamb (l+ lb.) g. (It lb.) neck neck or 750 g. or
ARrrcHAUrs -- Fry Fry in in butter butter or or oil oil 750 ARTICHAUTS pieces.
Season in pieces. Season with with salt salt and cut cut in boned and shoulder
shoulder of of lamb, boned and cook cook until until done. done. and and pepper and
and cut cut in in hearts, blanched blanched and Decorate with 4 artichoke artichoke
hearts, Decorate with 4 in butter and fried fried in butter or or oil. oil. large
dice, or or sliced sliced and (6 tablespoons, pan juices with 1 scant + cup) cup) I
dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant Dilute the panjuices pint, scant add 2 2 dl. dl. $
pint, scant cup) cup) thickened thickened down, add white wine, wine, boil boil
down, pour over chopped lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped veal veal stock
and pour over the the lamb. stock and parsley. AUx D'AGNEAU AUX Sautéed lamb with
aubergines. SAUTÉ s.turf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb with aubergines. (3* lb.) and
trimmed lamb's ti kg. kg. (Ji lb.) boned boned and trimmed lamb's AUBERGINES
AUBERcINEs -- Cut Cut 1 pepper and pieces. Season until and cook neck and pepper
cook until neck into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and proportions. and
oil equal proportions. in equal brown mixture of oil in brown in in a a mixture of
butter butter and in a a shallow dish. Put Put on on top top When is cooked, heap
in shallow dish. When the lamb is cooked, heap the lamb pieces and peeled, cut 3 in
pieces and fried fried in in oil. oil. Mix Mix cut in 3 small aubergines, peeled,
small aubergines, juices with veal stock the pan juices brown veal stock with white
white wine, wine, thickened thickened brown the pan garlic. pinch of pur6e,
flavoured a pinch and flavoured with with a of chopped chopped garlic. and tomato
tomato purée, pour over Boil lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the lamb. and pour
over the Boil down, down, strain, strain, and chopped parsley. chopped parsley.
Sautéed agaric. St. George's motels, St. Saut6ed lamb lamb with with cèpes, cipes,
morels, George's agaric. SAUTÉ - Cook D'AGNEAUX AUX MoRILLES, MOUSSERONS
MoussERoNsCook slur6 D'AGNEAUX lux CÈPES, ciirrs, MORILLES, the recipe for for
sautéed sautied /amb lamb with with lamb as as described in the the recipe the lamb
described in (8 oz.) g. (8 aubergines, aubergines by 250 g. cipes, aubergines,
replacing replacing the by 250 oz.) cèpes, the aubergines morels agarics, fried
fried in in butter butter or or oil. oil. morels or or St. St. George's George's
agarics, Sautéed D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR Prolamb chasseur. chasseur. SAUTÉ SAUTE D'AGNEAU
CHASSEUR -- ProSaut6ed lamb ceed given for recipe given for Sautéed Sautied veal
veal ceed as as described described in in the the recipe chasseur (see VEAL).
chasseur (see VEAL). Sautéed D'AcNEAU À A LA r,c, CRÈME cRtME -Saut6ed lamb lamb à
la crème. cr&me. SAUTÉ sAure D'AGNEAU I la Bone pieces.Season and lamb into into
pieces. Season with with salt salt and Bone and and cut cut the the lamb paprika
paprika and and fry fry in in butter. butter. juices with Heap pan juices Dilute
the with 21 2f dl. Heap on a shallow dish. Dilute the pan dl. on a shallow dish.
(scant (scant tI pint, pint, generous generous cup) Boil down down by by one-third,
one-third, cup) cream. cream. Boil i cup) add pour over (2 oz., g. (2 and pour
lamb. add 50 strain, and over the the lamb. 50 g. oz.,* cup) butter, butter,
strain, Sautéed D'AGNEAU AUX ALrxFINES FINES lamb aux herbes. SAUTÉ slur6 D'AGNEAU
Sautffi lamb aux fines fines herbes. HERBES in the recipefor for Sautéed HERBEs --
Proceed as described Sautied Proceed as described in the recipe lambs (see below),
I tableadding to lambs à below), adding to the the sauce sauce 1 tablela minute d
la minute (see spoon (3 tablespoons) and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons) chopped
shallots shallots and tablespoons (3 spoon chopped of parsley, chervil and
tarragon. a mixture mixture of chervil and tarragon. of a of chopped chopped
parsley, Sautéed D'AcNEAU À AL'INDIENNEI'INDENIIE lamb à I'indienne. SAUTÉ slurf
D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb i l'indienne. Proceed l'inin the recipe for for Sautéed
Sautied veal veal àd l'inProceed as as described described in the recipe . dienne
(see VEAL) dienne (see VEAL). Sautéed AL'ITALIENNEI'itaHenne. SAUTÉ o'lcNreu À
L'ITALIENNE Saut6ed lamb lamb à I l'italienne. slurf D'AGNEAU Proceed lamb àd la
recipefor for Sautéed la Proceed as as described in the the recipe Santiedlamb
described in minute (see below). pan juices with withwhite wine and and Dilute the
whitewine minute (see below). Dilute the panjuices Italian (see SAUCE) Italian
sauce sauce (see SAUCE)..

(3t

<t

Ot

543 543
LAMB LAMB
Sautéed 18mb il SAUTÉ D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A À Irc, LA utNurr MINUTE Sautded lamb i la
minute. slurE neck or or shoulder of lamb into inta small small pieces. pieces. Cut
a boned neck
Saut6 Sauté on lively heat in butter or oil. When the pieces are cooked and
sufficiently sufficiently browned, put parsley and a dash of them in a dish,
sprinkle with chopped parsley lemon lemon juice, juice, and pour over them the pan
juices diluted with I scant * J dl. (6 tablespoons, seant 1- cup) white white wine
and thickened ",rp) veal stock. s,tur6 D'.a.cNEAU 18mb with wlth mushrooms.
mllshrooms. SAUTÉ D'AGNEAU AUx AUX Sautéed lamb Saut6ed cHAMPIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS -
As As in the recipe for Sautied Souleed lamb 10mb with wilh cipes, cèpes, rnorels,
cultivated mushrooms, morels, St. St. George's agarics, but use cultivated peeled
and fried in butter, whole, if they are small, sliced, sliced. if if they are
large. (à la la hongroise). hon,gro,ise) sAUTf o'AcNnAU Seutffi lamb with paprika
(i AU AU IAIRIKA PAPRIKA (A (À m LA noucnorsn) HONGROISE) - Cut into into pieces
kg.

Braised Bralsed shoulder shoulder of lamb with various garnishes.

ÉPAULE fplurE

(3* (31 lb.) lb.) boned lower ribs ribs or or shoulder shoulder of lamb. Brown
Brown in

l*

butter. butter. As soon saon as the the lamb lamb is well weil browned, browned,
add 2 2 chopped Sprinkle onions. Season Season with salt salt and I 1 tablespoon
paprika. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) flour. flour. Moisten with 2
dl. ($ (! pint, scant seant cup) white white wine. Boil down, and then add 3 dl. (f
(t pint, pint, l| Il cups) cups) white stock, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons)
tabJespoons) bouquel garni gami (q.v.). (q.v,). Cook Cook with a lid on tomato
pur6e, and a bouquet of lamb out with a tue pieces of the pan for 30 minutes. Take
the nPT·rnT·<>I~,rI spoon, and put put them in a pan with 250 g. g. (8 oz.)
perforated mushrooms mushrooms which which have have been been sliced sliced and
and lightly tossed tossed in butter. Add Add fresh fresh crfflm cream seasoned with
paprika paprika to the sauce sauce left in the the first pan. pan. Boil down,
strain, slrain, and and pour over the lamb. Simmer gently with a lid on the Ihe pan
for 25 minutes. Saut6ed SAUTÉ D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU pARMENTTER PARMENTIER Sllutéed lamb
Parmentier. s.lur6 Cook Cook the meat meat and and sauce sauce as as described
descdbed in in the the recipe for Sautied Sauléed lamb with with aubergines,
replacing replacîng the aubergines aubergines with 4 4 diced diced potatoes fried
fried in butter butter or or oil. oi]. 10mb à la la printaniCre. printanière. slurf
SAUTÉ n'lcNnlu n'AGNEAU A À L.n LA Saut6ed lamb pnnraNtinr PRINTAN1ÈRE - Proceed as
in the recipe for Sautded Sautéed veal d à la printaniire prinlanière (see VEAL).
Sautéed lamb lamb with with tomatoes. tomatoes. slurf SAUTÉ D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU AUx
AUX Saut6ed ToMATBS TOMATES - Proceed Proceed as as described in the the recipe for
Sautied Sautéed lamb lamb with wilh artichokes, Grtichokes, replacing replaclng the
the artichokes anichokes by 8 small peeled, seeded cookOO in butter or oil. ail. A
grated seeded tomatoes, tomatoes, cooked clove of garlic can be he added. added.
Shoulder of of lamb. Illmb. 6pe,urn ÉPAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - All AU the recipes
given for Shoulder of of mutton multon (see (see MUTTON) are applicable
"IJIJ,,~.a.UlÇ to for Shoulder shoulders of of ordinary lamb. lamb. They can be be
boned and stuffed before before cooking. Shoulders of baby or milk-fed milk-fed
lamb and and Pauillac lamb lamb should he boned. boned. These are should not not be
are grilled grilled or roasted, roasted, and and served with with various various
garnishes. garnishes. Shoulder Shoulder of of lamb 18mb à I'albigeoise. fplurn
ÉPAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A A L'ALBlcEoIsE. L'ALBIGEOISE. Bone Bone the the shoulder
and stuff with forcemeat forcemeat made of sausage meat meat and minced pig's liver
Iiver in equal propromade of portions, portions, flavoured ftavoured with with
chopped garlic and parsley, parsJey, and well weil seasoned. seasoned. Roll Roll
the the shoulder shoulder and secure secure with with string. string. Fry it it
lightly lightly until until golden in in sizzling sizzling goose goose fat fat in
in an eafthenware casserole. Srirround with quartered potatoes potatoes or whole
new potatoes, fJV 1.'" 'LI'-", and 12lightly 12lightly blanched bJanched cloves
cloves of of garlic. gadie. Season, liule goose goose fat and and cook cook in the
the oven. aven. Season, sprinkle with wÎth a little ît Sprînkle with with chopped
parsley. parsley, Serve Serve in in the the dish dish in in which which it Sprinkle
was was cooked. of lamb à la boulang&re. tplur,n ÉPAULE D'AGNE.Lu D'AGNEAU A À ul
LA Shoulder of Shoulder BoULANciRE BOULANGËRE - Bone Bone the the shoulder, season
it il on the the inside, imide, roll, roll, and and secure secure with wîth string.
string. Cook Cook for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in an earthenware in which whîch
3 to to 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons earthenware fireproof fireproof dish dish in
butter butter have have been heen heated. heated. Surround Surround with with 3
sliced or quartered large potatoes and 3 onions, finely finely chopped chopped and
and lightly Iightly fried fried in in butter. Season Season the the onions,
garnish, garnish, sprinkle with the the butter butter left left over in in the the
pan pan and and finish in the the oven, basting frequently. Just Just before before
finish cooking in serving add add 4 tablespoons tab1espoons (* cup) thickened brown
stock. stock. serving

roll and secure with string. Put 2 Put into ioto a a braising braîsing pan pan
finely chopped bacon bacon rinds, rînds, 2 carroLS and and I J onion, onion, and
and fry lightly in butter. butter. Place Place the carrots top. Leave to cook cook
with the lid on the shoulder of lamb on top. pan 10 minutes. Moisten Moisten with
l{ 11 dl. $ pint, ! white pan for 10 t cup) white wine and boil down. Add 2+ dl.
(scant (seant I pint, generous generous cup) thickened 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant
seant! thickened brown stock, stock, I * cup) tomato pur6e, purée, a a bouquet
bouquet garni garni (q.v.) and and the the bones bones and tomato of the shoulder.
Cover Caver with with a lid and cook cook in trimmed scrap,s scraps of trimmed a
moderate oven oyen for I 1 to lf Il hours, depending on the size siz.e of the
shoulder. Glaze in the the oven, and arrange on a dish. Surround Surround with pan
juices juices left over over from the recommended recommended garnish. gamish. Heat
the pan the braislng, remove remoVe fat, boil bail down, strain strain if if
necessary neeessary and pour braising, over the the shoulder. sui/able for for
braised shoulder shoulder of lamb. 10mb. All Ail the Garnishes suitable garnishes
garnishes indicated indicated for for the baron, double, loin and saddle of roast
roast or or braised mutton, mutton, and and beans beans or or Bean Beon purie purée
d à la PURÉE). bretonne (see PUREE). ........" .. "" ....- of lamb lamb I .à la la
catalane catalarK:: or or with with pistachio pista chio nuts. l'lutS. Shoulder
ÉPAULE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A À r,c. LA clrAr.mre CATALANE (rN (EN rsucHn) P!STACHE) -
See See Eplurn Shoulder of ofmulton à la catalane. catalane. MUTTON, Shoulder
mutton d 18mb i à la gasconne. fpluru ÉPAULE o'.l,cxsA,u D'AGNEAU A À rA, LA
Shoulder of lamb GASCONNE - Stuff Stuff the boned boned shoulder shoulder with witb
a forcemeat forcemeal made made cAscoNNE raw ham ham (fat (fat and and lean),
lean), stale stale bread bread (without (without crusts) crusls) of raw in stock
stock and and squeezed out, out, chopped chopped onion, onÎon, and soaked in weil
choppe<! garlic garlîc and parsley, parsley, all ail bound with wlth an egg, cgg,
and and well chopped seasoned. seasoned. goose fat fat and brown brown lightly
lightly in the Brush the shoulder with goose oven. oven. Put Put into into a
braising braising pan pan with wîth coarsely shredded, shreddcd. blanched blanched
green quanered carrots, carrots, I 1 onion onion stuck with a green cabbage,2
cabbage, 2 quartered clove, and a bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Moisten Moisten
with with slightly fat 45 minutes. minutes. Add Add quartered stock. Cook Cook in
the the oven oven for 45 stock. potatoes another 45 minutes. minutes. potatoes and
and finish finish cooking cooking together together for for another Roastshoulder
Roas! shoulder of of lamb.6plutu lamb. ÉPA ULE o'e,cNrlu D'AGNEAU nOrrcR6TlE -
Shoulder Shoulder of lamb lamb is is usually boned, boned, rolled and and secured
secured with with string before being roasted in the the oven or on a spit. SpÎL It
is garnished roasted in with with watercress watercress and and its iLS gravy gravy
is is served separately. separately. The shoulder shoulder of baby or milk-fed
milk-fed lamb is not not boned. It ft should be be roasted roasted in the the oven
or on a spit on a brisk fire. Garnish with with watercress watercress and and serve
the the gravy separately. Garnish RoUed shoulder shollider of of lamb 18mb
(Car0me's recipe). 6p,lut,e ÉP AULE Rolled lamb to D'AGNEAU EN EN BALLorrIl.rE
BALLOTTINE - 'Bone 'Bone 2 2 shoulders shoulders of oflamb ta the the D'AGNEAU
bone; season season with with salt, pepper pepper and nutmeg nutmeg and stuff shank
bone; it with a finely finely pounded forcemeat. forcemeat. with a 'With a
butcher's needle neOOle thread thread a string through through to 10 the Ihe of the
the shoulder shoulder in in such a way as as to to make make it serve as as a end
of Lard each shoulder shoulder with with lardoons of bacon, bacon, draw string.
Lard in in in the the shape shape of ofa rosette, Put Put into into a a casserole
working them them in working a rosette. trimmings 2 trimmîngs from the the
shoulders shoulders and veal veal scraps, I 1 carrot, 2 onions and a a bouquet
bouquel garni. ga.rni. Cover Caver with rashers of bacon. bacon. onions bouillon
and and a a good good glass glass of of white white wine wine to to Moisten with
bouillon Moisten caver the the larded larded shoulders, shoulders, and and cook
cook for llhours. lt hours. Take Take care care cover to glaze the the larded
larded shoulders gradually. gradually. Drain, Drain, remove remove to and garnish
garnish with small g)azed on a dish and string, arrange on carrots and and onions,
onions, or braised braised lettuce lettuce or celery. eelery. Strain the carrots
pan pour some some pan juices juices and and remove remove surplus fat, fat, boil
bail down, pour lamb and over the the rolled rolled shoulder shoulder of oflamb and
serve serve the the rest rest separately. separately. over BROCHETTES D'AGNEAU
D'AGNEAU - Using pieces of of Lamb on on skewers skewers. BRocTIETTEs Lamb lean
lamb lamb cut from from the the neck neck or lower lower ribs, ribs. and pieces of
lean bacon, preparc prepare as as described described in in the the recipe for
Brochette of bacon, venl (se (see VEAL). VEAL). veal ÉMINCÉS n'acxn,lu D'AGNEAU -
Best Best cuts of of lamb, lamb, potpotlamb. ErrrrNcfs Sliced lamb. braised.
roasted or braised. roasted OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Lamb
sweetbreadssweetbreads - See See OFFAL Lamb
544

D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU snnlsfg BRA1SÉE - Bone Bone a shoulder shoulder of of lamb.

Season Season inside. inside,
LAMPREY

Lamb on skewers Carrier) Lamb skewers or brochettes (Robert Carrier)

Timbale of of lamb lamb ir à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. TIMBALE D'AGNEAU Timbale

TIMBALE D'AGNslu

A À

it small lamb noisettes braised in court-bouillon (q.v.),lamb (q.v.), lamb

sweetbreads sweetbreads cooked in butter, and truffies and and mushrooms,

L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE - Line a Charlotte Charlotte mould with pie pastry. Put in

(see SOUPS tapioca cooked in it to to a purée of fresh fresh peas peas (see a pur6e
tapioca Potage Lamballe). Lamballe). AND BROTHS, Potage

LAMBICK - Highly intoxicating Belgian beer, beer, rather sour LAMBICK

all with Velouté Velouti sauce al! blended blended with sauce (see (see SAUCE)
diluted with
cream Madeira. Alternate Alternate with layers of cream and flavoured with Madeira.

in taste. (See BEER.) BEER.)

_ See LA MOTHE.SAINT-HERAYE MOTHE-SAINT-HÉRA YE LA SCE CHEESE. CHEESE.

LAMPROIE - There three types types of edible LAMPREY. LAMrRoIE There are are three
lamprey: the or sea-lamprey, sea-lamprey, the lamprey: the lampern larnpern or the
lamprey-eel or

macaroni cooked in water and and blended with cream, butter and and grated cheese.
cheese. These fillings must must be be completely completely cold before being put
into into the the pie pie dish. dish. Cover Coyer the the dish dish with a pastry
lid and decorate the top with pastry leaves. Ieaves. Make Make an opening to allow
steam to escape and brush brush over over with beaten beaten egg. Bake Bake in a
hot oven oyen for q 40 b to 45 minutes. Before serving, serving, pour pour into the
pie through the opening, a few tablespoons of the Velouté Veloutd sauce. the sauce.
Lamb's trotters (feeQ. (feet). pIEDs PIEDS D'AGNEAU - These These are are prepared
as VARIETY as Sheep's trotters trotters (feet) (jeet) (see OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS).
MEATS). Vol-au-vent of lamb with tnffes truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms 1.
VOLI. vorAU-VENT D'AGNEAU AUx AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES ET ET cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS -
Fill Fili a vol-au-vent soon as as it it is is out of the the oven, oyen, with with
a vol-au-vent case, case, as as soon ragofrt sweetbreads ragoût of braised thin
noisettes of lamb, lamb sweetbreads cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and
sliced truffies truffies and and mushrooms, all ail moistened with white brown
thickened stock. white or brown Vol-au-vent of lamb with ftufles truffles and
mushrooms mushrooms II. n. vorVOLAU-vENT TRUFFES ET cHAMpIGNoNs AU-VENT D'AGNEAU
Aux AUX TRUFFES CHAMPIGNONS - Prepare Prepare a vol-au-venl vol-au-vent case in the
usual usual way. As soon as as it is removed removed from fil! with with a a
ragofit ragoût of of lamb lamb sweetbreads sweetbreads from the the oven, oyen,
fill braised in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), with trufres truffies and
mushrooms mushrooms braised added, added, the whole blended blended with a piping
hot Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

LAMBALLE - Name given to various various dishes. It is usually LAMBALLE applied by

adding consommé with wi th a pplied to a meat broth made by adding consomm6
545

proper. river lamprey lamprey and the lamprey proper. The found in the Atlantic and
the MediterThe lamprey-eel found and the ranean is higbly prized. prized. It is is
similar to the eel in is the most highly general appearance, appearance, but but
different from from it in in a a number of yellowish with brown markings, its
dorsal details: its skin is yellowish fins are are spaced spaced along along its
its back, back, and fins has seven and it has seven bronchial which form form two
two vertical lines on either side side of its orifices which neck. In In spring,
the lamprey-eels migrate migrate to to the the mouths mouths of spring, the rivers.
rivers. They They are to be found in large numbers numbers in the Loire, Loire, the
Rhône Gironde. Rh6ne and the Gironde. of the lamprey lamprey is delicate delicate
but, being being very very fatty, it The flesh of is somewhat indigestible.
indigestible. Lampreys of medium size are the most sought after, especially those
caught in the mouths of rivers. so that that the the skin skin can be easily
removed. Scald the the fish fish so Scald can be tbe manner in which it is to be
cooked, cut it According to the into thick slices or leave it whole. Prepare
according to the selected recipe. recipe. The lamprey can be cooked cooked in a a
great great many many different different ways. The lamprey commonly it is stewed
in wine (en matelote) flavoured flavoured Most commonly of the fish. All Ali
recipes for eel (q.v.) (q .v.) are are suitable with the blood blood of with
lamprey. for lamprey. à la Bordelaise Bordelaise (Bordearx (Bordeaux cookery).
r,lupnon LAMPROIE A À Lamprey I Lamprey BORDELAISE - Bleed Bleed a a medium-sized
lamprey. lamprey. Keep the LA BoRDELAIsp
LAMPSANA LAMPSANA
blood blood aside to to flavour flavour the the sauce. sauce. Scald the fish and
scrape off the the skin. Remove Remove the central central nerve. (To (To do this,
this, cut off the tip tip of of the the lamprey's lamprey's tail, make an incision
round the neck neck below the gills gills and, through through this opening, catch
hold of of the below the nerve nerve and and pull puil it it out.) Cut Cut the the
fish fish into into slices slices 5 5 crn. cm. (2 inches) inches) thick. Butter
Butter a pan and and line line it it with with sliced sliced onions onions and
carrots. carrots. Put Put in the slices slices of lamprey. lamprey. Place Place a a
bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.\ (q.v.) and a clove of of garlic garlic in the
the middle middle of of the the dish. dish. Season Season with salt salt and
pepper. pepper. Moisten with with enough enough red red wine wine to to cover coyer
the the fish. Boil for 12 minutes. Cook white leek Cook 12 12 slices slices of
ofwhite leek with with 4 tablespoons tablespoons (l (t cup) cup) raw diced diced
bacon bacon in butter butter in a a covered pan. Drain the slices of lamprey
lamprey and and put put them them in in a a pan, pan, alternating alternating with
the the slices slices of white white leek. leek. Make Make a roux roux (q.v.)
(q.v.) of of flour flour and butter. Moisten with 5 with the the cooking cooking
stock stock of of the the lamprey. lamprey. Cook Cook this sauce sauce for I15
minutes, minutes, strain, and and pour pour over over the the lamprey. lamprey.
Simmer very slowly slowly until until the the fish fish is is cooked. cooked.
Arrange Arrange the the fish on a serving serving dish and pour pour over over it
it the the sauce sauce mixed mixed with with some sorne of of the the blood. blood.
dish and Garnish Gamish with with slices slices of of bread bread fried fried in
butter. butter.

LAMPSANA" LAMPSAN~ NIPPLEWORT. NIPPLEWORT.

LAMrSANE LAMPSANE - Plant of the

endive endive family, family, similar similar to to the the sow-thistle. sow-
thistle. Its Its leaves leaves are eaten raw raw in in salad. salado Cooking
Cooking turns turns them them bitter. bitter.

flat flat and and narrow, narrow, somewhat somewhat like like a a cat's cat's
tongue tongue in in appearance. appearance. Langues-de-chat, which are crisp,
crisp, dry dry biscuits, biscuits, can can be be made made Langues-de-chat,whichare
and and flavoured flavoured in in various various ways. ways. Only Only biscuits
biscuits made made according according to to one one of of the the recipes recipes
given given below, below, however, however, can can properly properly be be called
lqngues-de-chat. langues-de-chat. called These These keep keep for for a a long
long time time and and are are served served with some sorne liqueurs liqueurs and
and sparkling sparkling wines. wines. They They are are also also served served
with with iced iced and used used as as an an ingredient ingredient of various
various sweets (desserts) (desserts) and sweets puddings. puddings. Langue-de-chat
1 - Work Work together, together, in in a a bowl, bowl, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,
oz., Langue-de-chat 2cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar and 2t 21 dl. dl. (scant
(scant 1 pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) 2 fresh cream. cream. Add Add 250
250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, I1 fresh
tablespoon vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured fine fine sugar, sugar, and, and,
when when the the tablespoon mixture is is quite quite smooth, smooth, 5 5 stiffiy
stiffiy beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. mixture Rub a a metal metal baking
baking sheet sheet with with pure pure w{D( wax or or line line with with heavy
heavy Rub paper and, and, using using a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with with a a
round round nozzle, waxed paper waxed the mixture mixture to to make make little
little strips strips about about 4 2i cm. (1 inch) inch) pipe the pipe .(l apart,
so so that that they they will will not not run run into into one one another
another during during apart, baking. baking. Bakein in a a hot hot oven oyen for
for about about 8 8 minutes. minutes. Bake Langue-de-chat II fi - Ingredients.
Ingredients. 125 125 g. g. @l (41 oz., oz., generous generous 1 Langue-dechat cup)
butter, butter, 125 125 g. g. (4 (41 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sieved
sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. cup) (4 (4 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) fine
fine sugar, sugar, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., + cup) cup) vanillavan illaflavoured
fine fine sugar,2 sugar, 2 eggs. eggs. flavoured Cream the the butter butter in in
a a warmed warmed bowl. bowl. Add Add the the Method. Cream Method. sugar and and
vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. sugar. Work Work the the mixture mixture
for for 2 2 sugar and mix mix in in the the eggs, eggs, one one at at a a time.
time. Add Add the the sieved sieved minutes, and minutes, flour. flour. onto a a
baking baking sheet sheet as as indicated indicated above. above. Pipe this this
mixture mixture onto Pipe

LANGUE-DE-CHAT LANGUE-DE-CHAT (Cat's (Cat's tongue) tongue) - In In the the view of

of some sorne experts, name from its its shape - thin, thin, experts, this this
biscuit biscuit derives derives its its name

Ambialet, Tarn Tarn (French (French Governnent Governmenl Tourist Tourisloffice)

Ambialet, ofice)

recognisable. ln In this this province, province, which which was was called
recognisable. called Gallia Narbonensis under the Romans, was invented the ragoût
Narbonensis ragofit of was the the prototype of that mutton with white beans which
was robust dish known as as cassoulet. cassoulet. robust The Languedoc Languedoc
larder larder is is well weIl stocked. stocked. In In the the southThe western
provinces of of France are to be be found excellent excellent meat, meat, western
poultry, and good winged and ground game. The succulent poultry, finest foie foie
gras gras is made in this region from goose and· finest and duck and their their
indispensable foil, foil, the the truffie, truffie, the the 'subterliver and ranean
empress' empress' as as it was called by by the the Marquis de de Cussy. Cussy.
ranean To these these delicacies delicacies must be be added excellent saltwater
and To freshwater fish. fish. Among the latter latter are the the trout of the the
icy freshwater Pyrenean streams, streams, the the perch, bream, tench, tench, pike,
etc., etc., which which Pyrenean are found found in abundance in the Garonne,
Garonne, Aridge, Ariège, Tarn and are Aude rivers. rivers. Aude The Languedoc
Languedoc kitchen kitchen gardens are are well weil stocked stocked with The and
the the orchards orchards with delicious delicious fruit. Languedoc vegetables and
vegetables also has has its its vineyards vineyards and produces produces excellent
excellent wine. also With such such natural natura! resources, resources, it is is
no Culinary specialities specialities - With Qnlinsry wonderthat the caisine
cuisine of of Languedoc Languedoc is is excellent excellent and and that that the
the wonder that the large number number of of succulent succulent specialities.
specialities. region has has a a large region Here, first, first, are are some
sorne typical typical Languedoc Languedoc broths broths and and soups: soups: Here,
Pot-au-feu d à la la poulefarcre poulefarcie (stuffed chicken chicken hotpot);
hotpot); soup soup au au Pot-au-feu farci; pot-au-fat pot-au-feu ahigeois albigeois
(with (wi th stuffed stuffed goose gooseneck); pot-auneck); pot-aufarci; feu
carcassonnais carcassonnais (with ribs of of beef, beef, neck neck of of mutton,
lean lean fan bacon, stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage and and white white beans);
beans); ouillade ouillade catalan; catalan; bacon, (Rousbraou boufat bouffat de de
Cerdagne; boullinade boul/inade des des pAcheurs pêcheurs (Rousbraou sillon);
bouillabaisse bouillabaisse Catalane Catalane (which (which is is nothing nothing
like like the the sillon); bouillabaisse of of Marseille'1; Marseille); soupe soupe
aux aux poissons de Site Sète (fish poissons de bouillabaisse soup); soupe soupe
aux aux clovisses clovisses (cockle (cockle soup); soup); soupe soupe d à l'ail
l'ail (garlic soup); soup); soupe soupe d à Ia la courge courge (pumpkin (pumpkin
soup); soup); soupe soupe aux aux choux choux soup); soup); soupe soupe oux aux
tomates tomates (tomato (tomato soup); soup); tourin; tour in ; (cabbage soup);
(cabbage and succulent succulent garbure. garbure. and Among the the hors-d'ouvre
hors-d'œuvre of of the the area area are: Black Mountain Mountain Among are; Black
and Aridge Ariège ham; ham; sausages sausages from from Luchon, Luchon, Toulouse,
Toulouse, the the and Black Mountain Mountain and and Aridge; Ariège; frittons
frittons or or grattons grattons of of pork, pork, Black goose and and turkey;
turkey; dried dried ftche fiche with with radishes radishes from from Tarn; Tarn;
goose melsat from from Dourgne; Dourgne; Ianguettes languettes (little (little
tongues) tongues) from from Tarn; Tarn; melsat anchovy pdti pâté from from
Collioure; Collioure; little !ittle pdtis pâtés of of P6zenas Pézenas or or anchovy
Béziers (which (which are are also also eaten eaten as as a a dessert); dessert);
anchoiade; an cho iade ; fresh B6ziers fresh la croque-au-sel; croque-au-sel; fresh
fresh figs. figs. white beans beans d à la white Among the the special special egg
egg dishes dishes of ofLanguedoc Languedoc are: are: Omelettes Omelettes Among à Ia
la cansaldo; cansaldo; omelettes omelettes with with ham, ham, blood, blood, wild
wild asparagus asparagus tips, tips, d hop shoots shoots (called (called omelette
omelelle d à la la Saint-Jean), Saint-Jean), agaric, agaric, peppers, peppers, hop
546 s46

I-

"

LANGUEDOC, ROUSSILLON, ROUSSILLON, COMTE COMTÉ DE DE FOD( FOIX LANGUEDOC, The land
land of ofOc Oc (Languedoc) (Languedoc) is is a a district district which which for
for centuries centuries The has had had a a tradition tradition of of fine fine
cooking. cooking. Its Its people people have have always always has connoisseurs of
of good good food. food. Not Not only only have have they they proprobeen
connoisseurs been vided substantial substantial dishes dishes in in abundance,
abundance, such such as as the the famous famous vided cassoulet (q.v.) (q.v.) of
of Castelnaudary Castelnaudary and and the the daube daube languelanguecassoulet
but also also subtly subtly flavoured flavoured and and delicate delicate
appetisers appetisers docienne, but docienne, suchas as the thepdti pâté defoie
defoie gras gras with with truffies, truffies, gem gem of ofthe the
LangueLanguesuch docculinary culinary repertoire, repertoire, which which has has
made made famous famous throughout throughout doc the world world the the names
names of of Toulouse, Toulouse, Cazdres, Cazères, Albi Albi and and other other the
citieswhere wherefor for so so long long these these delicacies delicacieshave have
been been made. made. cities In Languedoc, Languedoc, the the Roman Roman and and
Arab Arab influences influences which which In gradually determined determined the
the character character of of its its cooking cooking are are still still gradually

-
LANGUEDOC
poached or fried eggs with ham, tomatoes, aubergines, garlic; poached
d la cansalado. cansalado, fried eggs à fried are made made from saltwater and The
following dishes are and freshwater fish, kinds, snails and frogs: all kinds, water
fish, shellfish of ail frogs: Cod à snails and d I'ailloli; ragoût ragofit of cod à
d la h carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; cod of cod cod à d la persillade l'ailloli;
(with parsley); parsley); brandade of cod; cod; cod bouillabaisse; shad à (with d
on the spit ; la persilhde; persillade .. stuffed shad on . lamprey en en matelote;
matelote; d la catalane, tunny (tuna) fish catalane, with with olives olives or
fricandeau of tunny fish à fricandeau (tuna) à tunny (tuna) d la palavasienne;
river iver with anchovy; chopped tunny d la meunière; meuniire; river trout in
court-bouillon; court-bouillon; small small fry trout à fry in court-bouillon; Eel
à d la catalane; elver court-bouillon; fry; pike on elver fry; on the spit;
matelotes of various freshwater civet of spiny sptny lobster freshwater fuh; fish;
civet matelotes (Roussillon) ; freshwater crayfish in in court-bouillon; court-
bouillon; mussels mussels (Roussillon); freshwater crayfish d la la ravigote;
ravigote; mussels mussels à d la la catalane; catalane; mussels mussels with with
rice; à cockles à d la la persillade; snails à d la la languedocienne, à d la
persillade; snails cockles d sommeroise; mourguettes mourguettes à lodivoise, à d
la narbonnaise, à d la sommeroise; lodévoise, h meridionale; meridiotule; frogs d
la persillade. la frogs legs à Here are meat, poultry and game dishes of Here
poultry and are sorne the meat, some of the d l'albigeoise, l'albigeoise, à d la
carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; Languedoc: Daube ofbeef of beef à Languedoc: of
estouffat estouffat of of beef beef à d la catalane; veal slices with agaric; roll
of ragofit of of veal with olives; olives ; veal en persillade; ragoût m papillote;
veal en persillade; veal with with sa salsify; ls ify ; pistache of mutton;
gasconchump end of veal salsify; ragofit of of mutton; braised of mutton with sais
nadc of ify ; ragoût nade braised leg of of with white beans; beans; leg of of
mutton with garlic; Luchon mutton with lamb à d la Ia persillade; salted ewe ..
Toulouse persillade; blanewe; Toulovse quarter of lamb quette of lamb; cutlets of
milk-fed lamb leg of lamb en m culotte; leg quette ribs of pork lamb with with
agaric; galimaufry of pork; d la lamb pork; ribs pork à persillade; ribs Iumbet of
pork with ribs of pork en en papillotes; lumbet potatoes, cassoulets from
Carcassonne, Carcassonne, Castelnaudary and Toulouse; estoufat of white white beans
beans from from Carcassonne; sucking pig with saupiquet ariigeois (with white
beans); beans); roast sucking piglet skins; I'albigeoise; tripe lripe à d la mode
mode narbonnaise; narbonnaise; skins; tripe à d l'albigeoise; (H6rault); manouis
(Hérault); (H6rault); tripe "vith with saffron; sffion; cabassols (Hérault);
cabassols petarran Luchon; lamb's lamb's pluck d la la languedocienne; pluck à
petarram of of Luchon;
pine pine kernels, garlic, tomatoes and Quercy poached or Quercy truffies; poached

with olives; head with lamb's sweetbread pie with with salsify; calf s head
sweetbread pie calf s brain en calfs m papillote; veal kidneys d la catalane.
agaric, salsify, poultry pie pie .with with agaric, Fricassée of Fricasste of
chicken; chicken; poultry truffied capon; capon; stuffed chicken.. chicken;
truffled mushrooms and truffles.. truffies; stuffed mushrooms and (stuffed with
with sa sausage, olives, la carcassonnaise (stuffed usage, olives, capon capon à d
la chicken livers, the neck stuffed with garlic bread, roasted on turkey with with
olives olives; truffied young turkey; young turkey the .. the spit); spit);
truffled of duck; pigeon à d duck with olives; salmi of duck à d la bigarade; duck
goose in blood; blood; go ose with la la catalane; compte of of pigeon; pigeon in
salmi of gainea fowl ; 'salmiofguineafowl; chestnuts; ragofit of goose with
celery ; goose; sanguette of chicken chicken;; a/icuit aliait of chicken, turkey
and goose; or sailAed with garlic and olives, or turkey turkey livers with with
capers, olives, trufies, capers, grapes truffles, duck or goose with capers, lemon;
foie gras of lemon; foie of duck wine, in pies, pies, charcoal-grilled, potted;
Toulouse, Frontignan wine, Cazères pâtés de foie foie gras with truffies;. pickled
and Luchon Luchon pdtds Cazdres and goose and duck; partrrdge la catalane; salmi of
partridge; d la goose partridge à

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of Languedoe Languedoc Gastronomic map of Gastronomie

547
LANGUEDOCIENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE (A (À LA)
partridge partridge with cabbage; cabbage; salmi of of larks larks; ; larks en
caisse; small birds baked baked in a a pie; pie; bunting bunt ing en caisse;
caisse; salmi salmi of of thrush; teal teal d à la bigarade; hare au of hare; civet
of izard au saupiquet; civet of (Pyrenean goat); pdtd (Pyrenean mountain goat);
pâté of ofyoung young rabbit with truffies truffles; ; hare hare pdti. pâté. The
sweets and The vegetable vegetable dishes, dishes, sweets and preserves preserves
made made in Languedoc Gratin of Languedoc include: include: Gratin of tomatoes
tomatoes and and aubergines aubergines; ; aubergine agarics sautied sautéed with
garlic; garlic; aubergine stuffed stuffed d à la catalane; agarics cipes
persillade; green green peas peas with ham; ham; salsify sais ify deep-fried cèpes
d à la persillade; with with sugar; sugar; stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, green
green cabbage cabbage saufted sautéed and stewed; stewed; French French beans beans
with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. BiscuitsfromB6darieux; honey uoquelles croquettes
from from Narbonne Narbonne;; Biscuits from Bédarieux; honey grape tart; touron
from from Limoux; Montpellier Montpellier pie; Limoux from Limoux; from cake; cake;
dry dry pepper pepper cakes cakes from Limoux; Alleluias Alleluias from and janots
from Albi; Albi; flaky Castelnaudary; ring-biscuits ring-biscuits and janots from
fiaky Castelnaudary; pastry and and rauzel from from Carcassonne; Carcassonne;
flaunes fia unes or or flauzonnes fiauzonnes from from from Loddve; Lodève;
heartcakes heartcakes from from Tarn; bras de de Venus Venus from Narbonne;
pancakes pancakes; oreillettes ('rabbits ('rabbits ears'); ears'); pickled
pickled ; oreillettes plums plums; crystallisedfruit Carcassonne. ; crystallised
fruit from Carcassonne. Wines - The province of Languedoc is is very large large
and covers covers several wine-producing wine-producing areas. areas. C6tes du
Rh6ne. Rhône. The best-known best-known vineyards of the norCôtes dt thern part of
this area are situated on the right bank of the Rh6ne Rhône (opposite (opposite
Valence Valence and and Tain-L'Hermitage) Tain-L'Hermitage) in in the dipartement
département of Arddche. Ardèche. This is is where the white and and red wines of
Saint-Joseph Saint-Joseph and the red wines of Cornas are proproduced. duced. The
Saint-P6ray Saint-Péray white white wines, also from this area, are made into
excellent sparkling wines following the mtthode méthode champenoise. champenoise.
The appellations of of the southern part of the right bank of the the Cdtes Côtes
du Rh6ne Rhône are situated situated in the dipartement département of of Gard.
Gard. This This is is the the home home of of the the dry, dry, fruity fruit y
ros6s rosés of Tavel Tavel and Chusclan, the red red and rose rosé wines of Lirac,
and the red red and white white wines wines of of Laudun. Laudun. Another
exceptional exceptional wine produced here is the V D.Q.S. Costiires Costières &t
du Gard. Gard. Aude Aude and and Hirault. Hérault. Besides Besides a a large large
production production of of vin ordinaire, Aude produces the the excellent
excellent red red wines win es Fitou, ordinaire, Aude Corbibres Corbières and and
Minervois; Minervois; also also a a sparkling wine wine called Blanquette
Blanquette de Limoux. A famous Muscat Muscat wine wine is is produced produced in
in the A very very fine fine famous dipartemenr département of of H6rault Hérault
in Frontignan. Frontignan. Eastern Pyrenees. This dipartement département is the
home of such great dessert wines wines as Rivesaltes Rivesaltes and Muscat Muscat
de Rivesaltes, Rivesaltes, Banyuls Banyuls Grand Cru, Maury, C6tes Côtes d'Agly
d'Agly and and Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Roussillon. Roussillon. Gaillac Gaillac
wine, from the dipartement département of of Tarn, Tarn, can be be drunk as as a
still or sparkling sparkling wine.

liquid part will be very very clear and will give offno off no more steam. through
a very very fine strainer As soon as it is ready, strain through strainer or close
woven woven cloth. clotho Put Put into pots, pots, which should be be filled to the
close top. When When the the fat fat is is completely completely set, set, cover
cover the the pots pots with top. paper, tie with string, and put them in a cool,
dry place. The lard will keep for several months. After the melting melting process
is complete the strained strained pork fat After leaves a a residue that that is is
considered very good good to to eat in the
districts districts of of France France where where lard is used. fat) - The fat
fat of pork lying between between the Lard gras (pork faQ skin and the flesh fiesh
which is found found all ail along the chine. chine. fat, usually usuaUy eaten
eaten fresh, fresh, is is in in two two layers. layers. The first This fat, layer,
next to the flesh, fiesh, is used used chiefly chiefiy in the preparalayer, which
is next of lard. It is called caUed melting melting fat. The second layer, layer,
next next to tion of melts less readily. It is used in various various the skin, is
firmer and melts butchery and also for barding. It is known as ways in pork
butchery hard fat. - This is the fat fat of the pig's belly, belly, streaked Lard
maigre streaked smoked. with muscular tissue. It can be salted or smoked. In ln
France France this this fat is usually usually eaten fresh fresh but in England and
in U.S.A. U .S.A. it is smoked and known as as bacon. bacon, or salted and known as
salt pork.

LARDING.

LARDER LARDER -

meat. This fat should be white, firm and dry. In summer it if possible, be kept on
ice before being cut into larmust, if doons. The purpose for which the lardoons
lardoons are used deterdetermines their length length and thickness. thickness.
mines their To To make make them, them, first first cut cut the the fat fat into
into rectangular rectangular slabs. measured across, these these slabs slabs should
correspond to the When measured desired desired length of of the lardoons.
lardoons. fiat on a table, skin downwards. downwards. Slice the Lay these slabs
flat With the flat fiat of of the knife knife smooth the surface surface of of the
evenly. With fat evenly. fat, and slice horizontally horizontally to obtain obtain
the lardoons. lardoons. They must be kept in a cool place until they are needed.
Larding needles needles of different thicknesses thicknesses are are available for
threading threading the lardoons lardoons into into the meat. meat.

large cuts of of meat, by by means of of a larding larding needle. ness into large
ness Larding fat. lnno LARD A À uqurn PIQUER - Pork Pork fat used used for for
interlarding interlarding Larding

Threading lardoons lardoons of of varying varying thick- Threading

LANGUEDOCEI\NE LANGUEDOCIENNE (A (À LA)-Name LA) - Name given given to to a number

number of different dishes mostly served with a garnish of tomatoes, tomatoes,
aubergines and cipes. cèpes. The sauce sauce served served with with dishes dishes
prepared prepared d à Ia la languedocienne languedocienne is flavoured fiavoured
with garlic. garlic.
Larding Larding needles needles (Coutellerie (Coutellerie Andrd) André)

LAPWING. VANNEAU VANNEAU - Bird Bird of of passage with crested head, head,
considered considered very good to eat. Its eggs are much mu ch sought after. The
lapwing lapwing is is cooked like plover plover (q.v.). (q.v.). LARD. sArNDoux
SAINDOUX - Cooking fat obtained obtained from the melting melting down down of pork
pork fat. fat. This This fat, fat, well weil prepared prepared and and free free
from impurities, impurities, is is excellent and in in certain regions of France,
France, notably notably the the south-west, is is used in place place of butter or
oil for the the greater part part oftheir of their culinary preparations.
preparations. Preparation Preparation. Cut Cut the the fat fat in very very small
small pieces pieces and and put put it in a deep pot pot with I 1 dl. (6
tablespoons, tablespoons, scant f t cup) water water per per
500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) fat. fat.

LARDING NEEDLE. LARDoIRE LARDOIRE - Implement used used for LARDING larding cuts of
of meat, poultry poultry and game.
- Strips of larding fat of varying varying lengths and thicknesses, thicknesses,
threaded into meat, meat, poultry and and game game by by means of of a larding
needle. needle. In ln French. French, the the name name lardon is also also used
for blanched and and fried diced bacon which is added to certain certain dishes
such as as hare, beef etc., and to ofhare, beefd à la la bourguignonne
bourguignonne etc., to a number number of civet of civet garnishes. garnishes.
LARDONS LARDOONS. rlnpous

LARK.

ALoUETTE, ALOUETTE, MAUvmrrE MAUVIETTE - Bird, of which numerous numerous

Start cooking over a good good heat, heat, stirring stirring with a wooden wooden
spoon, then then cook over a gentle but but sustained heat, heat, stirring stirring
often, ofte n, until the the fat is completely completely melted. melted. At this
this point point the pieces pieces of of pork pork fat will appear well weil fried
and and crisp, crisp, while while the the
548 548

known, including including the calandra and crested crested lark. species are
known, The lark has has a very very delicate flesh fiesh but, but, in some sorne
countries, countries, it

is in great great demand more more as as an an aviary bird bird than than as as
food, food,
of its its varied varied and harmonious harmonious song. because of because
LEAF LEAF
In France, France, larks larks are eagerly eagerly sougbt sought for the
preparation preparation of lark lark pdt6, pâté, greatly greatly esteemed by
gastronomes. gastronomes. it belongs Although Although the the lark lark is is
found found in Asia and in Africa, il belongs more to northern northem parts of
Europe. Europe. Larks abound abound in in Promore vence, vence, in in Languedoc,
Languedoc, in in the the plains plains of of Champagne and Burgundy, Burgundy, as
well weil as in the steppes of southem Russia. when asmauviette mauviette when
France, the lark is always always referred to as In France, savoury bird was it is
used used for the the table. In former former times times this savoury mala avis,
mauvis, which which derives derives from from the the Latin Latin mala called
mauvis, called the qualification meaning bad bad bird. bird. It is is strange that
the meaning strange that mauvais (bad) should have been applied to a bird which is
so mauvais delicate to eat. FEMME A LA BONNE roNNr FEMMELarks i à la bonre bonne
femme. MAUvIETTEs MAUVIETIES À Larks d la as Thrushes à in a a casserole in the
same way way as in the Prepared in femme (see TH RUSH). bonne femme THRUSH). bonne
Larks in breadcrust. breadcrust. MAUVIETTEs MAUVIETIES EN CROÛTE cRoOrE Larks -
Slit the birds a piece of them. Stuff them with with a along the back and and bone
them. piece of a piece in a foie gras about the size of a nut. Pres Press in a
small nut. about the foie in a truffie. Fold Fold the the birds birds back back
into Place them them in a into shape. shape. Place truffie. one against against tbe
the buttered casserole, casserole, pressing pressing them closely one them closely
buttered other so that they keep their shape in cooking. Season. Pour on melted
butter. Cook for 5 minutes in a very hot oven. and butter the round loaf and out a
a round Scoop out larks. Scoop Drain the larks. (see FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see
FORCEMEAT). d gratin forcemeat inside. Line with à Brown in Put the finish and
finish larks in crust and in tbe the crust Brown in the oven. Put the larks the
oven. them a a for 8 minutes. Pour over them in the oven oven for cooking them in
Demi-glace concentrated Demi-glace few tablespoons Madeira-flavoured concentrated
tablespoons Madeira-flavoured sauce (see SAUCE). dish covered covered with with a
on a a dish a the 'pie' on Put the sauce SAUCE). Put napkin, napkin, and serve.
serve. Larks en as for for EN CAISSES cAIssEs MAUvIETTEs EN en caisses. MAUVIETIES
- Proceed as Thrushes (see THRUSH). Thrushes en en caisses (see Larks larks A LA
unurs -- Slit Slit the larks MAUvIETTES À u MINUTE Larks à i la minute. minute.
MAUVIETTES along the back. Open gently. Season flatten them Season with and flatten
them gently. Open and the back. salt pan, using quickly in pepper. Fry in a a
frying frying pan, using best Fry quickly and pepper. salt and butter. Place each
in butter, and and of bread fried in a slice of each bird on a (see serve. Demi-
glace sauce (see and Demi-glace a little liqueur brandy and serve. Pour a SAUCE)
larks. over the larks. sauce over SAUCE) into the pan and stir. Pour this sauce
pArB FROID Lark pâté, pf,te, cold. Made with with FRorD DE DE MAUVIETTES MAUvIETTES
-- Made cold. PÂTÉ boned pdti as cold way as cold Partridge pâté larks stuffed in
the the same same way boned larks stuffed in (see PÂTÉ). PATE). pArn CHAUD Lark
pâté, Made with with p0t6, hot. DE MAUVIETTES MAUVIETTTs -- Made cHAUD DE hot. PÂTÉ
boned gras and in the and truffies, the same same with foie truffies, in larks
stuffed boned larks stuffed with foie gras way as (se PÂTÉ). pdti (see hot Quai!
PATE). as hot Quail pâté pdlroNrAlsE Larks à la pi6montaise. MAUVIETTES A LA
PIÉMONTAISE rrHwtETrEs À la piémontaise. Stuff (see gratin forcemeat piece of of à
d gratin with a a piece each lark lark with Stuff each forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT)
quickly nut. Cook of a a smaU Cook quickly small nut. FORCEMEAT) about about the
size size of in sb on dish on a a bed bed of of a deep deep earthenware earthenware
di in a in butter. butter. Serve Serve in polenta (q.v.) (q.v.) made down into into
Press the birds down cheese. Press the birds with cheese. made with the for in the
oven for pour on and bake bake in the oven melted butter on melted butter and the
polenta, pour 5 game stock few tablespoons of game stock with a a few tablespoons
of 5 minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with flavoured with Marsala. Marsala. ptur DE Pilaf
Cook the larks the larks DE MAUVIETTES MAUvIETTeS - Cook Pilaf of of larks. larks.
PILAF quickly on a a bed bed of of Rice Rice quickly in in a a circle circle on in
butter. Arrange Arrange them them in pilaf game essence (see PILAF). of game
essence pilaf (see a few few tablespoons PILAF). Pour Pour a tablespoons of
flavoured Madeira over over tbem. them. flavoured with with Madeira Larks with
Proceed as as for for AU RISOTTO Rlsorro -- Proceed tvtluvnrrEs AU with risotto.
MAUVIETTES Pilaf (see RICE). Risotto (see RICE). larks on on a a bed of Risotto
Pilaf of larks. Serve bed of of larks. Serve the the larks

It

flan Latticed apple apple flan Latticed

pastry Flan or or tart tart pastry or TART. TART. GRILLÉ cnItl6 -- Flan LATIICED
FLAN or covered with with or other other filling, filling, covered fruit, cream
cream or filled with with fruit, shell filled shell pastry. of pastry. strips of
narrow criss-cross strips

BYOF BYRESTAURANTS OF LE PÈRE PERE -_ See See RESTAURANTS LATUILLE, LE LATIJILLE,

GONE DAYS. GONE
great chef in the who lived lived in the seventeenth seventeenth VARENI{E -- A A
great chef who LA VARENNE LA minion or or as kitchen kitchen minion his career
career as Varenne began began bis century. century. La La Varenne Henry of Henry
Bar, sister sister of de Bar, Duchesse de home of of the the Duchesse marmiton in
the home marmitonin IV IV of of France. pot', observobserv'poule au au pot',
legendary 'poule Tbe of the the legendary author of The King, King, author with him
with entrusted him lad, entrusted a bright ing bright lad, was a Varenne was La
Varenne ing that that La result of of a result As a heart. As the heart. of the an
affair affair of certain in an negotiations in ceitain negotiations remarked
Duchess remarked the Duchess great fortune that the fortune that this, a great he
made such such a this, he carrying by carrying 'You have better by have done done
better jestingly to jestingly day: 'You one day: him one to bim larding (amorous
notes) than by larding notes) th my an by "poulets" (amorous my brother's brother's
"poulets" mine'. mine'. was He was a chef. chef. He great talents as a But But La
La Varenne Varenne also also had had great talents as planned books on books on the
first systematicaUy systematically planned of the the first author of the author
rare, but but are now now rare, cookery These books books are and confectionery.
confectionery. These cookery and recipes and contain contain recipes they for
centuries centuries and consulted for they have have been been consulted /e titles:
le Here are are their their titles: which today. Here be used used today. which can
can still still be (first edition 1653); le le Confiturier Confiturier français
Pâtissier edition 1653); Pdtissier français frangais frangais (first (first edition
published by by 1651, published (1664); le français (first (1664); edition 1651, le
Cuisinier Cuisinierfrangais and Pierre virtually unobtainable); unobtainable); and
now virtually Lyons, now at Lyons, Pierre David David at (published at Carnier
l'École at Lyons Lyons by by Jacques Jacques Carnier des ragoûts ragofits
(publisbed I'Ecole des in in 1725). 1725).
deep very deep found in in very LA V ARET -- Fish family found Fish of of tbe the
salmon salmon family LAVARET periodically lakes. which periodically lavarets which
There are are also also saltwater saltwater lavarets lakes. There Le Lake Le run is
that that of of Lake after is The most most sougbt sought after run to rivers. The
to the the rivers. Bourget. Bourget. river trout and This for river trout and All
recipes recipes for delicate. Ali very delicate. This fish is very fish is (See
TROUT.) salmon TROUT.) lavaret. (See for lavaret. trout are are suitable suitable
for salmon trout are LAYON. vineyards of of Anjou Anjou are The vineyards DU LAYON
LAyoN -- Tbe LAYON. COTEAUX corEAUX DU to white wines wines of of of the the best
best white Some of these slopes. found on on these slopes. Sorne to be be found the
vineyards on on from the the vineyards come from dipartemenl come Maine-et-Loire
département the Maine-et-Loire these the Layon river. Layon river. right bank ofthe
the right bank of these slopes on the slopes on green. LEAF. plants, usually and
green. part of flat and usuallyfiat Aerial part of plants, rrunre -- Aerial LEAF.
FEUILLE A y 1eaves great man leaves are are edible. edible. A great many Vine
leaves have have vine leaves vIGNE - - Young Young vine DE VIGNE FEUILLES DE Vine
leaves. leaves. FEUILLES (quail game (quail various to wrap wrap game They are are
used used to various uses in cookery. cookery. They uses in and pork orpork of
bacon bacon or partridges especially) with strips stripsof along with especially)
along and partridges fat.. fat.. Turkish (balls of in are wrapped wrapped in
rice)are meat and and rice) of meat Turkish dolmas dolmas (balls vine vine leaves.
leaves. Young make to make used to leaves are are sometimes sometimes used vine
leaves Young tender tender vine fritters, green salads. to green salads. and added
added to fritters, or or finely finely chopped chopped and Vine arrangements
indecorative decorative arrangements leaves may may also also be be used usedin
Vine 1eaves of fresh fruit. fruit. of fresh

LARUE YS. BYGONE DA DAYS. RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE LARUE -_ See See RESTAURANTS
LASAGNE. pasta cut in the of wide cut in Italian pasta the shape shape ofwide
LAzAGNE- Italian IASAGNE. LAZAGNEribbons. (q.v.). as macaroni macaroni (q.v.). in
the way as ribbons. It It is is cooked cooked in the same same way LATEX umber of
plants. The latex of number of plants. The latex of LATEX -- The The milky milky
sap of a an sap of the galactodendron of and used in is drunk drunk and used in of
Columbia Columbia is the galactodendron cooking as milk. milk. cooking in in the
way as the same same way LA TOUR (Château) (Chflteau) -- One great wines wines of
of BorBorfive great One of of the the five LATOLIR deaux (Paulliac-M6doc). deaux
(Paulliac-Médoc).

549 549
LEAF CHERVIL CHERVIL LEAF
pLUcHEs DE LEAF CHERVIL. CIIERVIL. PLUCHES DE CERFEUIL cERFEUTL -- See See
GARGARLEAF NISHES, Chervi/ Chervil leaves. leaves. NISHES,

LEAKAGE. COULAGE couLAcELoss ofliquor from a of liquor from a cask. cask. - Loss
LEAKAGE.

LEAVEN. LEVATN -- Sour paste which Sour wheat wheat paste which has has begun begun
to to LEA VEN. LEVAIN ferment and and which is in which is in a a fit fit state
state to to induce induce fermentation, fermentation, and and ferment thus cause
cause kneaded kneaded dough dough to to rise. rise. The The term term leaven leaven
is is often often thus (brewer's yeast). instead of used instead of barm yeast).
barm (brewer's used LEBERKNODEI,N (Hungarian (Hungarian cookery) cookery) -- See
See SOUPS SOUPS LEBERKNÛDELN AND BROTHS. BROTHS. AND
(Hungarian cookery) LEBER-SUPPE (Hungarian cookery) -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND
LEBER-SUPPE BROTHS. BROTHS.

Bunch Bunch
ofleeks ofleeks (Kollar'1 (Kollar)

LECITHIN. LÉCITHINE rfctrnNs -- Fat Fat containing phosphorus which containing

phosphorus which LECITHIN. yolks, brain, etc. is found in in egg egg yolks, etc. is

pdtisserie) Leckerli (Swiss pâtisserie) Leckerli

(12 oz., 350 g. (12 oz., 1 I cup) honey, 500 g. (18 oz., 500 g. 4! cups) o2.,4|
cups) sieved c,.rp) chopped fresh i- cup) fresh almonds, almonds, 50 50 g. (2 oz.,
* t cup) chopped candied candied. lemon or orange peel, 1 orange peel, I teatei(l
oz., i spoon of soda, 25 g. (1 spoon bicarbonate bicarbonate of f, cup) spices
(ground cloves, nutmeg and ginger). c1oves, nutmeg

(Swiss pfftisserie) LECKERLI Type of LECKERLI (Swiss pâtisserie) of spiced spiced

biscuit, - Type rectangular in shape and about (* inch) thick. about 1 I cm. cm. (t
(5 oz., g. (5 Ingredients. 150 g. generous t oz., generous Ingredients. 150 cup)
fine fine sugar, * cup)

flour, oz., 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., flour, 25

Method. Arrange flour in a ring on the table. Put the Arrange the floUf

Put Put the the mixture in in rectangles rectangles on on well-buttered baking

well-buttered baking trays. Bake Bake in the oven. oyen. Cut Cut into small
rectangles rectangles and brush with milk milk just before before taking out of of
the oven. oyen.
LEEK. FoTREAU POIREAU - Hardy biennial biennial plan! plant, the origins origins of
which LEEK. go back back a very long long way, which has never never been found
found in its wild wild state state and and is is believed be1ieved to to be be a a
cultivated cultivated variety variety of oriental garlic. garlic. The Egyptians
Egyptians held held the leek in great esteem, as as did did the Romans. Nero Nero
had leek soup served to him every day. The Romans. Romans attributed to leeks the
property of imparting and Romans keeping up up the sonority of the voice, and it is
is known that keeping Nero was was anxious to have a clear c1ear and and sonorous
voice for Nero delivering his his orations. brations. delivering The leek leek has
has little nutritional nutritional value value apart apart from being rich The in
Vitamin Vitamin C and and containing containing a a variety variety of of mineral
mineraI salts and a a in little iron. iron. Leekbouillon Leek bouillon is a
diuretic. diuretic. little 550
honey of the ring ring and work with a spatula. honey in the centre centre of
spatula. Add all aIl the other other ingredients and knead knead weIl. well.

planl which This plant, which is is mainly This mainly used used as as a a
ftavouring flavouring for for the the stockpot or or an an ingredient ingredient of
stockpot of home-made home-made soups, soups, can can also also be be prepared in
in various various ways prepared ways as as a a vegetable. vegetable. porREAUx À
I*eks à i la Ia béchamel. bechamel. POIREAUX Leeks A LA r,l BÉCHAMEL ntcnerusr, --
Trim the Trim the leeks, leaving leaving oruy only the part. Parboil leeks, the
white white part. Parboil for for 5 5 minutes minutes in in salted water, water,
and salted and drain. drain. Cook Cook in in butter and arrange butter and arrange
in in aa timbale or or dish. dish. timbale (see SAUCE.) Coyer Cover with with not
not too thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce too thick sauce (see SAUCE.) porREAux À
Boiled leeks. leeks. POIREAUX Boiled A L'ANGLAISE r,'Ar.rcr,Arso -- Trim Trim off
off the the roots roots leeks and greater part of the the leeks part of of and the
the greater green ends, of the the green leaving ends, leaving part. Take only the
the white only white part. Take off off the the outside outside skin skin and and
wash wash the the leeks. Tie Tie them leeks. in boiling them in in bunches like
asparagus bunches like asparagus and and cook cookin boiling salted salted water.
water. Drain Drain and and dry dry them, them, serve folded napkin napkin or serve
on on a a folded in aa or in perforated asparagus asparagus dish. dish. Garnish
parsley. Serve Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with melted melted
butter. butter. ponnlux BRAISÉS Braised leeks. leeks. POIREAUX nnusfs -Trim Trim 12
12 large large leeks, leeks, leaving leaving only part. Cut only the the white
white part. into Cut into pieces and put into pieces and put into a pan in a sauté
saut6 pan in which which 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant * cup) (scant cup)
butter butter have been been heated. heated. Season Season with with salt and salt
and pepper. (6 tablespoons) pepper. Moisten with 5 5 tablespoons Moisten with
tablespoons (6 tablespoons) water, water, coyer pan and cover the the pan and
simmer simmer for for about minutes. Put 40 minutes. about 40 Put the the leeks
into a a vegetable dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the the braising
braising liquor liquor to which an an extra tablespoon of of butter has been butter
has been added. added. Alternatively, the the leeks can moistened with with c1ear
can be clear meat meat be moistened stock stock instead instead of water. porREAUx
AU Leeks Leeks with with melted melted butter butter or on other other sauces.
sauoes. POIREAUX AU BEURRE BEURRE FONDU FoNDU -- Boil in in water and serve with
with melted and serve melted butter butter or any any other other sauce, sauce,
such such as as Cream, Crearn, Hollandaise, Hollandaise, Mousseline, Mousseline,
(see SAUCE). Vinaigrette (see SAUCE). porREAr.rr( À Leeks L€eks à la creme. I la
creme. POIREAUX A, LA cniMe -- Put Put the L.a, CRÈME the white part of the leeks
into a pan. Season ofthe a buttered sauté Season and saut6 pan. and cook cook
gently gently for for 15 15 minutes minutes with with a a lid lid on. on. Moisten
Moisten with with fresh fresh cream, cream, covering gently for covering the leeks.
Simmer gently the leeks. for 30 30 minutes with the lid on the pan. pan. Put into a
a vegetable dish. Add a few dish. Add a few tablespoons juices and panjuices
tablespoons fresh cream to the pan and pour over the the leeks. ponuAtx EN Deep-
fried Deep,fried leeks. leeks, POIREAUX FRrror -- Trim EN FRlTaT Trim the the
leeks, leaving leaving only the white part, and cut this this into pieces. Marinate
juice, salt for for 30 in oil, lemon juice, pepper, then minutes in 30 minutes oil,
lemon and pepper, salt and then parboil in salted water for 8 8 minutes. Dip Dip in
in a light batter a light fry ln and fry batter and in smoking smoking hot hot deep
deep fat. fat. When the leeks become golden and and crisp, drain drain them, dry,
them, dry, season arrange in a season with fine salt, arrange a heap on a a folded
napkin or on a paper doyley, and garnish with fried fried parsley. poIREAux AU
Leeks au AU GRATIN au gratin. POrREAUX Trim the GRATTN leeks, the leeks, - Trim
leaving only the the white part. Parboil Parboil in salted salted water and and
cook gently in butter in a pan. Put into a a covered covered sauté saut6 pan. a
buttered ovenproof (Parmesan, for ovenproof dish, sprinkle sprinkle with grated
cheese cheese (Parmesan, for preference), pour over sorne some melted butter, and
and brown brown in in a a oyen or under a slow oven a low grill. Leeks i à la
grecque. porREArrx POIREAUX A À LA White part r,.l GRECQUE cnrceur - White the
leeks leeks cooked in a a court-bouillon (q.v.) consisting of of the court-bouillon
(q.v.) of

t
LEMON LEMON
water, oil oil and and lemon lemon juice, juice, spiced spiced with with coriander.
coriander. (See (See water,
euvre.) HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold Cold hors-d' hors-d'œuvre.) HORS-D'(EUVRE, LeeksMornay.
poIREALrx POIREAUX MoRNAY MORNAY - Cook the white white part LeeksMornay. of the
the leeks leeks in butter. butter. Put them them into a fireproof fireproof dish
dish on a of layer of Mornay souce sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated
layer cheese and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown in the oven.
oyen. cheese Velouté or cream cream of of leek. wtour6, VELOUTÉ, cniMe CRÈME DE DE
PoIREAUX POIREAUX Velout6 Recipes for these soups soups will be found in the
section entitled entitled Recipes SOUPS AND BROTHS. SOUPS Leeks I à la vinaigrette.
poIREAux POIREAUX A À re LA vmltcnnrre VINAIGRETTE - Cook Leeks the white parts of
the leeks in salted salted water. Drain and dry hors-d'œuvre dish dish and season
season with oil, them, arrange in an hors-d'euvre pepper. vinegar, salt and pepper.
of 24 24 skins of cIrRoN coNFITURE DE Lemon Lemon jam. jam. CONFITURE DE CITRON the
skins - Blanch the up Chop up them. Chop drain them. lemons. lemons. When When they
they are are half ha If cooked drain the Cut the a sieve. sieve. Cut through a and
rub them through half ha If the lemon skins and with and moisten moisten with rest
into thin strips. Mix Mix these ingredients and in equal in of sugar sugar equal
amount of an amount the juice juice of 8 lemons. Add Add an pan in in the same the
same a copper pan weight to the lemon skins. Cook in a way as other other jams.
jams. MANQUE. See MANQUÉ. AU CITRON cIrRoN - See M,c,I.rQut AU manqu6. MANQUÉ Lemon
manqué. diced and add add diced mixture and for the the mixture sugar for lemon-
flavoured sugar Use lemon-flavoured Use it. essence to it. teaspoon lemon essence
or j teaspoon crystallised citron or! it comcomou! mask mask it and tumed turned
out, is baked baked and manqui is When the manqué When Frost until stiff. stiff.
Frost sugar until pletely with egg whites whisked with sugar Dry in in the the nuts
on on top. top. Dry icing sugar. sugar. Sprinkle pistachio nuts with icing brown.
oven but do not brown. oyen (clrnoucoNFITE (CITRONDE CITRON cITRoN CONFITE fconcr
DE Preserved lemon peel. ÉCORCE peel, from from which which the the lemon peel,
pieces of fresh lemon of fresh Blanch pieces Nlr) - Blanch NAT) is used. zest is
used. only the the zest In this way only removed. In this way pith has has been
been removed. pith (q.v.). night Leave aIl all night syrup (q. Drain the pieces and
put them in syrup v.). Leave the syrup. in the it until it peel and the syrup syrup
until and cook cook the day take out the the peel take out Next day Next in a a it
drops drops in or until until it 25o on on the the saccharometer saccharometer or
measures 25° peel. Leave Leave to to soak soak the peel. Put back back the spoon.
Put thread from the spoon. short short thread for several several operation for
repeat the operation and repeat overnight again and in in syrup syrup ovemight
point of of last time to the the point time to for the the last the syrup syrup for
days, days, cooking cooking the crystallisation. crystallisation. 12 fine fine zest
of of 12 Soak the the zest DE CITRON cITRoN -- Soak slRop DE Lemon Lemon syrup.
syrup. SIROP (lf pints, juice. Prepare generous pints, generous I litre litre (li
Prepare 1 own juice. lem ons in lemons in their their own the saccharometer. 36" on
on the saccharometer. quart) hot measuring 36° quart) hot sugar syrup measuring
sugar syrup juice and days. for 5 5 to to 6 6 days. Leave for syrup. Leave zest to
to this this syrup. Add and zest Add the the juice Filter. Filter. flavour is used
to flavour This is used to DE CITRON cITRoN - This Lemon zEsrs DE Lemon zest. zest
ZESTE grating the the skin skin preparations for for sweets by grating sweets by
creams other preparations and other creams and with impregnated with becomes
impregnated The sugar sugar becomes with a lump lump of of sugar. sugar. The with a
put in mixture to to in the the mixture and is is then then put lemon and of the
the lemon the tial oil essential oil of the essen be flavoured. be flavoured. in
zest and and used used in lemon zest with lemon flavoured with Milk also be be
flavoured Milk can can also flavour used to to flavour is used which is creams The
zest zest which creams and and custards. custards. The prepared in in this way:
preparations is is prepared this way: certain certain culinary culinary
preparations knife. fruit with with aa sharp sharp knife. from the the fruit Remove
zest from Remove the the zest put, chop zest chop the the zest it is is to to be be
put, to which which it According According to to the the use use to ln the latter
case, case, blanch blanch the the the latter finely, it into into fine fine strips.
strips. In or slice slice it finely, or julienne, drain it. lem on julienne, and
dry dry it. lemon drain and

LEFT-OVERS. nrsrss RESTES - Sometimes Sometimes foodstuffs are served in LEFT-

OVERS. at a example, they will be be served at large quantity when, for example,
subsequent meal as co Id meat. meat. It is done with roast meat or cold subsequent
or braised braised meat mode, for for example), example), la mode, poultry or d la
meat (boeuf à when it it is intended to reheat reheat these these meats to serve
them again. when LEGUMIN. rfcuraNs LÉGUMINE Proteid substance substance resembling
LEGLTMIN. - Proteid casein in pulses (peas, beans, less well lentils). It is is
less beans, lentils). found in casein found assimilated than animal protein,
protein, and combines to combines with chalk to assimilated forro insoluble
deposit. For this reason pulses cannot be be form an insoluble satisfactorily
satisfactorily cooked in hard water.

Lemons a branch Lcmons on on a

LEMON. very acid acid and and lemon tree, tree, very Fruit of of the cITRoN --
Fruit the lemon LEMON. CITRON highly grows now grows India, but from India, but now
It originally came from highly scented. originally came scented. It out in region
and and extensively extensively in in the Mediterranean region out of of doors
doors in the Mediterranean Califomia, U.S.A. California, U.S.A. The juice and in
cooking cooking to to lemons are are used used in zest of of lemons The juice and
the the zest flavour Various dishes. Various a large large number number of of
dishes. and season flavour and season a creams, (the puddings and zest (the with
the the zest are flavoured flavoured with and sauces sauces are creams, puddings
outside juice is enhance the the part of The juice is used used to to enhance of
the the skin). skin). The outside part flavour of certain di shes and and
mayonnaise mayonnaise and to dishes season salads salads and to season
flavourofcertain instead vinegar. instead of of vinegar. For for bavarois,
bavarois, creams, creams, as a a flavouring flavouring for lemon as For the the use
use of of lemon mousses, in their their words in puddings, sauces, see these these
words sauces, soufflés, souffi6q see mousses, puddings, al pha betical order.
order. alphabetical The of sorne conlemon is is aa matter matter of someconof the
the lemon food value value of The food troversy; it is is rich in in Vitamin
Vitamin C Cit exceptionally rich however, being being exceptionally troversy;
however, undoubtedly for scurvy. remedy for scurvy. undoubtedly the the specific
specific remedy Lemon Lemon costard. c,ream AU CITRON Make aaCustard Custard c.ream
custard. CRÈME cnirr,re AU cITRoN -- Make (see (see CREAMS) with which has has been
been boiled boiled with milk which using milk CREAMS) using lemon or silk silk
tammy. tammy. a very very fine finestrainer strainer or lemon zest. zest. Pass Pass
through through a Lemon proA commercial commercial proDE CITRON cITRoN - - A
EssENcE DE Lemon essence. essence. ESSENCE duct pdtissene in place of lemon fresh
lemon in place of fresh in cooking and pâtisserie cooking and duct used used in
juice. juice. It It is is very very concentrated. concentrated.

How slice lemon grooveand Howto togroove and slicea a lemon for garnishing
forgarnishing

551 551
LEMONADE LEMONADE
LEMONADE. CITRONNADE, crrnoNrqADE, LIMONADE LMoNADE - Drink Drink consisting
consisting LEMONADE. juice, sugar lemon juice, of lemon and water. water. sugar and
of Lemonade I. (9oz., I. CITRONNADE crrnoxNl,on - - Dissolve g.(9 Dissolve 250
250g. o2.,2 cups) Lemonade 2 cups) lump sugar in 1 litre litre (li- pints, pints,
generous generous quart) sugar in quart) filtered filtered lump juice and water.
Add Add the and zest the juice zest of of 22 lernons lemons to to tbe thesyrup.
syrup. water. Leave to to infuse infuse for for 33 hours hours in place. in aacool
cool place. Leave Strain through through aa fine fine strainer. strainer.A A siphon
siphon of of soda sodawater, water, or or Strain fresh water, water, can can be
beadded added to to the lemonade. Serve the lemonade. Servecold coldand and fresh
put aa slice lemon in glass. of lemon in each each glass. slice of put Lemonade II.
IL LIMONADE rruoNloE CUITE currE - Cut lemon into Cut aa lemon into thin thin
Lemonade Remove the slices. Remove Infuse for (scant the seeds. seeds. Infuse for 1
I hour hour in! litre (seant in f litre slices. pint,2t (l oz., cups) boiling
boiling water. g. (1 water. Add Add 25 25 g. o2.,2 tablespoons) pint, 2* cups) 2
tablespoons) sugar. sugar. Fizry lemonade. lemonade. LIMONADE ranoNlDE GAZEUSE
GAzEusE - This This lemonade lemonade is is Fizzy usually artificially artificially
made made and and aerated aerated with with carbonic gas, carbonic acid acid gas,
usually like manufactured manufactured soda soda water. water. It It is is sold
sold in in bottles bottles or or siphons. siphons. like

(lf

Battlebetween between Carême (Lent)and Car6me (Lent) Battle andMardi-Gras Mardi-

Gras (from an print) (from ury print) an18th I 8thcent century

Lemon sole sole Lemon

LTMANDE-sore -- The The name lemon lemon sole LEMON SOLE. LIMANDE-SOLE sole is is a
a corruption of of the French limande-sole. This the French This fisb corruption
fish is is really really a a kind of dab dab but, but, unlike unlike the dab dab
and and other other fiat flat fish kind of fish such such as as flounder elongated
and oval in flounder and plaice, plaice, it is elongated in shape, shape, and and
is is thus somewhat somewhat similar to a a sole in appearance. Some authorities
authorities assert assert that lemon sole that lemon Sorne is very very little
little sole is quality to the sole, but tbis inferior inferior in quality this
opinion is is not not shared shared by who find find this by gastronomes,
gastronomes, who this fish fish comparatively comparatively stringy stringy and and
tasteless. tasteless. It It corresponds to yel/owtai! fiounder to the the
yellowtail in flounder in u.s.A. U.S.A. (q.v.) and All (q.v.) are AlI recipes for
brill (q.v.) and sole (q.v.) are suitable for for lemon lem on sole. sole.

LENT. clntus CARÊME - Forty-day fast fast imposed by by the the Catholic Catholic
religion, from Ash Wednesday till tiU Easter. Easter. This period of This period
fasting in the the early Church had excellent excellent physical effects by
imposing imposing on the digestive system, wom gastronomic worn out by gastronomie
excess excess during the the winter season, a much needed needed rest. Brillat-
Savarin tell tell us us that that towards towards the tbe middle middle of of the
eighteenth century century the normal r6gime régime in bourgeois families consisted
consisted of of four meals: meals:
Breakfast, Breakfast, which which took took place place before before 9 a.m. and
consisted of bread, cheese, cheese, fruit, fruit, sometimes a pdtt pâté or cold co
Id meat. (The bread, habit of drinking coffee had had not yet penetratd penetrated
into prohabit vinciallife.) vincial life.) Lunch, Lunch, which which took took
place place between between noon and and I 1 p.m., with soup, the the boiled boiled
meat meat of of the tbe pot-au-feu, pot-au-feu, and and vegetable vegetable soup,
accompaniments according according to to the season. season. accompaniments Around
4 4 p.m. p.m. there there was was a a light light meal meal enjoyed as as a a rule
by by Around the ladies ladies of of the the household household and the children.
children. the Supper was was at at 8 p.-., p.m., wfih with entrde, entrée, roast,
roast, side-dishes, side-dishes., Supper saI ad and and dessert. dessert. salad
During Lent Lent breakfast breakfast was was omitted, omitted, meat meat was
excluded During
552 552

from the lunch menu, the lunch menu, and from and in inthe theevening evening
supper replaced supper was wasreplaced meal which by a meal which contained bya
contained no noeggs, eggs, butter, anything of butter, or oranything ofaa live
nature. nature. live The real real test The test of of culinary culinary art art
was was to to create create aarigorously rigorously apostolic meal meal which
apostolic which had had ail all the the appearances appearances of ofan an
excellent excellent supper. supper. Little by little the Little by little the
Church Church relaxed relaxed its its original original severity, severity,
permitted the and permitted and the use use ofbutter of butter and and eggs eggs
and, and, later, later, the the flesh flesh 'cold-blooded' animaIs, of ter, certain
of 'cold-blooded' animals, such such as as fish. fish. Still later, Still la
certain game considered aquatic aquatic game considered to to be be cold-blooded,
cold-blooded, such such as as tbe the pintail, scoter-duck, spoonbill, spoonbill,
pintail, scoter-duck, moorhen, moorhen, coot, coot, teal, waterteal, waterrail,
piper were rail, curlew, godwit and curlew, heron, heron, godwit and sand were
allowed. sandpiper allowed. A st of A Lenten Lenten meal meal could could also also
include include an an impressive impressive li list of sumptuous oves, entrées
sumptuous rem removes, entrdes and and roasts. roasts. Understood Understood in in
these these terms terms the Lenten diet the Lenten diet does does not not differ
differ from from normal normal diet diet from from the point ofview. the healtb
health point of view. For For Lent Lent menus menlrs see FESTIVE COOKERY. see
FESTIVE COOKERY. Lent 'Madame Victoire Lent anecdotes. anecdotes. CARÊME cARfiME
ANECDOTIQUE ANEcDorreur --'Madame Victoire (sister of (sister good, sweet of Louis
Louis XV), XV), good, sweet and and kindly, kindly, Iived lived in in the the most
most refreshing refreshing simplicity simplicity in in a a society loved her
society that that loved her dearly; dearly; her her household household adored (and
withadored ber. her. ln In exemplary exemplary fashion fashion (and without out
stirring from her luxurious bergère stirring from her luxurious bergbre in in
Versailles) Versailles) she stre fulfilled fulfilled aIl all her her religious
religious duties duties by giving aIl possessed to by gjving all she she possessed
to the or and poor the po diligently observing and by by diligently observing
fastings fastings and and Lent. knt. In In fact, fact, the the same lady's table
same lady's table was was so notd for for its its meagreness so noted meagreness
that the parasite gourmets gounnets kept kept weil away from well away from it. it.
It It was was not not that that Madame Madame Victoire Victoire did did not not
appreciate good food, appreciate good food, but but she she had had the the
strictest strictest religious religious scruples scruples conceming concerning what
what should eaten during should be penance. 1 be eaten during penance. I have have
seen her tormented seen her tormented by by doubt doubt over over a a duck duck
served served to her during during Lent. Lent. The to her The question was whether
the the bird bird was was lean lean or or fat. fat. She She solicited solicited the
the opinion of of a a bishop who who happened happened to to be be attending
attending the the dinner. dinner. He He immediately immediately assumed assumed the
the demeanour demeanour and and tone tone of a judge at a judge last court at the
the last court of of appeal. appeal. He He told princess told the the princess that
that doubts doubts such such as as these necessitated placing placing the these
necessitated cooked the cooked bird juices bird upon upon a a very cold platter. If
cold silver silver platter. If the creature's juices the creature's congealed
congealed within quarter of udthin a a quarter of an an hour, hour, it it was was
to to be be conconsidered fat; juices remained fat; if, if, on on the the other
other band, hand, the remained liquid, the juices liquid, be eaten without it could
could be without misgjving. misgiving. Madame Madame Victoire lost Victoire lost no
time in putting the time in matter to the matter to the the test: test: the the
juices did did not not congeal, a fact that delighted the princess since she was
very congeal, a fact that delighted the princess since she was very partial to to
that partial that particular type type of of wildfowl. wildfowl. The The truth
truth was was that the the period period of that fasting which of fasting which
Madame Madame Victoire Victoire so so diligently observed observed also diligently
also upset upset her. her. She She waited waited impatiently impatiently for the
midnight bell on the Saturday before Easter and saw for the midnight bell on the
Saturday before Easter and saw to it it that that she immediately brought to she
was was immediately plump fowl brought a a plump fowl with with rice and and other
other succulent rice succulent dishes.' dishes.'
LETTUCE LETTUCE
'Desbarreaux, 'Desbarreaux, upon hearing a peal of of thunder thunder while while
eating eating a a bacon bacon omelette, opened the window window and and flung
flung his his plate plate out out into into the the night night muttering:
muttering: "All "Ali that that fuss fuss just just for for an an omelette!" !"',
omelette 'One 'One town town celebrated celebrated Lent Lent with with a a
procession procession in in which which a a beautiful, frail frail young maid ma id
played played the the part of of a a poor, poor, beautiful, wretched, barefooted
girl. girl. The The moment moment the procession was was wretched, over, the the
hypocrite hypocrite went went off off to to dine with with her lover lover on on a
a over, quarter quarter of of lamb lamb and and a a ham. ham. The The odour odour
of of these these drifted drifted down down the street, street, whereupon whereupon
several several people went went up up to to the the room room the where she she
was was enjoying herself and dragged her her downstairs, downstairs, where through
the the town town with with the the spither to to parade through obliging her
quarter of lamb slung round her shoulders and the roasted quarter ham strung strung
round round her her neck.' neck.' (Brant6me.) ham
LENTIL. LENTILLE LENTILLE - A pulse (leguminous (Ieguminous seed), originally
originally LENTIL. from central Asia, Asia, where it was was cultivated in in
prehistoric prehistoric from times. There There are are numerous numerous
varieties. This vegetable vegetable contains times. than any other; other; 100 100
g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) provide 337 more protein than more calories. calories. salts,
especially phosphorous Lentils are rich in mineral salts, recommended for children,
and iron. They are particularly recommended anaemics, nursing and mothers, provided
that and expectant mothers, anaemics, advisable is advisable none of these suffers
from digestive troubles. It is purée them or to mix them with potatoes to
counteract to pur6e husks. the effect of the unassimilable lentil husks' for as for
lenn.s. CUISSON DEs LENTILLES. LENTILLTs. Proceed as culssoN DES Cooking of
lentils. lentils must must be be (see BEAN). Dried white beans these, lentils Like
these, BEAN). Like beans (see long. If If for long. not for Id water but not soaked
water before cooking, but in co cold soaked in germinate, which to germinate, long,
they they begin to are soaked soaked too too long, they are more least more at
least not actually actually poisonous, at if not renders them, them, if difficuIt
difficult to digest. be lentils can can be After cooking vegetable stock, stock,
lentils or vegetable meat or in meat cooking in prepared in beans. suitable for
dried white beans. in any way suitable LENTISK. family as as the the same family
Bush of of the the same LENTISK. LENTISQUE LENTIseLiE -- Bush turpentine Its grown
in Archipelago. Its Greek Archipelago. It is in the the Greek is grown turpentine
tree. tree. It fruit yields an collected as mastic mastic is is col!ected resin
known known as edible oil. oil. A resin an edible from its trunk This resin resin
is is used used in it. it. This incisions in trunk by by making incisions to Raki.
known as as Raki. the spirit spirit known to flavour the
produced LÉOGNAN Graves wines wines produced excellent Graves Among the the
excellent LEOGNAN - Among ut-Bailly, in are the the Château-Ha Chflteau-Haut-
Bailly, commune are in this Gironde commune this Gironde Château-Carbonnieux,
Chiteaude Chevalier, Chevalier, ChâteauDomaine de Chdteau-Carbonnieux, Domaine
Malartic-Lagravière and Château-Olivier. Chflteau-Olivier. Malartic-Lagravidre and
The The word word 'lettuce' 'lettuce' comes cornes from from the the Latin Latin
lactuca, lactuca, because because juice. lettuce, lettuce, when when it it is is
cut, cut, exudes exudes a a milky milky juice. In In ancient ancient times, times,
the the lettuce lettuce was was looked looked upon upon as as a a sacred sacred
plant plant (it Ot figures figures in in the the Passover Passover ritual ritual of
of the the Hebrews Hebrews at at the the same same time time as as the the Rome
ancient favour in paschal paschal lamb). lamb). It It was was brought brought into
into favour in ancient Rome by by Antonius Antonius Musa, Musa, physician physician
to to the the Emperor Augustus. Augustus. stomach disof stomach cured him of Galen
that this this plant plant cured disGalen asserts asserts that orders orders when
when he he was was young. young. He He adds adds that that lettuce lettuce brought
brought age. him him restful restful sleep sleep in in his his old old age. end at
the the end served at lettuce was was usually Among Among the Romans, Romans,
lettuce usually served the Domitian, the Emperor Domitian, Under the of of the the
evening meal. meal. Under the Emperor lettuce serve lettuce to serve customary to
fashion fashion changed and and it it became became customary meal. of the the
meal. at the beginning of when lettuce, especially when regarded lettuce, The The
Romans now now regarded so took to serving it and so appetiser, and as an an
appetiser, salad, as dressed as as a a salad, an hors-d'oeuvre. as an as hors-
d'oeuvre. in win winter. year round, except in round, except all the the year in
season season al! Lettuce is is in ter. in salads. salads. raw, in eaten raw, be
eaten can be varieties can common varieties All Ali the the common cos but cos used
in cookery, but are mainly used lettuces are Cabbage lettuces Cabbage like be
cooked. cooked. Lettuce can be braised, like also be lettuces can can also lettuces
endive. AU GRAS GRAS -nnclsfEs AU LAlruES BRAISÉES meat stock. stock. LAITUES in
Meat lettuce in Braised lettuce Braised leaves. green outer outer leaves. the tough
tough green Trim the lettuces by removing the Trim under them under Cool them
water' Cool in salt salt water. 5 minutes minutes in for 5 Parboil them them for
Parboil water' all the the water. extract ail leaves to to extract the leaves
Squeeze the running water. water. Squeeze running lettuces together. together. 2 or
or 3 3 lettuces Tie 2 onions rinds, sliced sliced onions bacon rinds, line it it
with with bacon and line pan and a pan Butter a rather pan. Coyer with rather Cover
with in this lettuces in this pan. Lay the the lettuces and carrots. carrots. Lay
and moderate in a a moderate and cook cook in Cover and boil. Coyer to the the
boil. fat stock. stock. Bring to fat for 50 50 minutes. oven for oyen half, in
half, each in Cut each them. Cut untie them. and untie lettuces, and Drain the the
lettuces, Drain half fold each each half and fold ends and at both leaves at both
ends Trim the the leaves lengthwise. Trim lengthwise. it through through aa strain
it stock, strain cooking stock, down the the cooking Boil down in two. two. Boil in
lettuces. pour over the lettuces. over the and pour fine sieve, sieve, and fine as
are' as as they theyare, servedas can be be served prepared in way can in this this
way Lettuces prepared Lettuces may be or may be main dishes, dishes, or various
main for various a vegetable, as a garnish for indicated below. below. asindicated
sauces as various sauces cooked further with various AU MAIGRE MAIGRE -nnalsfss AU
LAITUES BRAISÉES lettuce. LAITUES braised lettuce. Vegetarian braised Vegetarian
with Moisten with rind. Moisten bacon rind. the bacon omitting the above, omitting
as above, Proceed as Proceed of stock. stock. instead of water instead water
Arrange Mosrrg - - Arrange ALA rl MOELLE LAITUES À bone-matrow. LAITUES with bone-
marrow. Lettuce witb Lettuce pie dish, alternating dish, alternating in aashallow
shallow pie circle in lettuces in in aa circIe braised lettuces braised each of
each on top top of Put on in butter. butter. Put fried in of bread bread fried with
sUces slices of with littleDemiDemiAdd aalittle marrow. Add poached beef beef
marrow. of poached lettuce 2 2slices slices of lettuce Boildown down stock. Boil
(seeSAUCE) the braising braising stock. to the glace sauce SAUCE) to sauce (see
glace pour over dish' Sprinkle Sprinkle overthe thedish. and pour strain and add
butter, butter, strain stock, add the the stock, marrow. ofmarrow. eachslice
sliceof ofeach parsley ontop top of little chopped parsleyon aalittle NoISETTE -
AUBEURRE BEURRENOISETTE LAITUES AU butter. LAITUES Lettuce Lettuce in browned
butter. inthe the Arrange in rollthem. androll them'Arrange halveand andhalve
lettuces,and Braise the Braise the lettuces, pouraafew few serving, pour
Beforeserving, dish. Before rosette on on aadish. form formof of aa rosette
(seeBUTTER) overthem. them. BUTTER) over Brownbutter butter (see tablespoons
tablespoons Brown EN garnishing. LAITUES LAITUES EN forgarnishing. butterfor
inbutter lettucein oflettuce Chiffonnade Chiffonnade of and finely44trimmed
trimmedand veryfinely Shredvery BEURRE - - Shred AUBEURRE cHIFFoNNADE AU
CHIFFONNADE (3 with22tablespoons tablespoons(3 inaa panwith Put them themin
lettuces.Put washed washedlettuces. with Moistenwith salt.Moisten tablesalt. Season
withtable butter. Season tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. (q.v.).Coyer and
Coverand (scant * cup) bouillon (g.v.). cup)bouillon 33 tablespoons tablespoons
(scant forwhatever whatever recipefor inthe therecipe indicated in asindicated
gently. Use Useas simmer simmer gently. with this this garnish. isto beserved
servedwith main maindish dishis tobe cHIFFoNEN LAITUESEN forcold cold
dishes.LAITUES lettuce for oflettuce CHIFFONChiffonnade Chifronnade of lettuces.
washedlettuces. andwashed trimmed and sometrimmed NADE finelysorne veryfinely NADE-
-Shred Shredvery oil, withoil, moisture.Season Seasonwith allmoisture. toextract
extractail Squeeze themto Squeeze them pepper. vinegar, andpepper. vinegar,salt
saltand and decoratesalads saladsand mainlyto todecorate usedmainly This chffinnade
isisused Thischiffonnade poultry. orpoultry. mayonnaise fish,shellfish shellfishor
offish, mayonnaiseof EN garnish.LAITUES LAITUESEN as withcream creamas lettucewith
Chiffonnade garnish. oflettuce Chifronnadeof finelyshredded shredded andcook
cookfinely Prepareand CHIFFONNADE LÀ rACRÈME cRtME- -Prepare cHTFFoNNADE ÀA recipe.
precedingrecipe. lettuce forthe lettuceas asfor thepreceding pint, lf dl. dl.(t
withIt moistenititwith When lettuceisissoft, soft,moisten Whenthe thelettuce $pint,

LÉOVILLE among the the second second wine c1assed classed among Bordeaux wine R ed
Bordeaux Lf,OVILLE -- Red growths wines. great Médoc M6doc wines. growths of of the
the great Léoville-Las-Cases, L6ovilleand LéovilleL6oville-Poyferr6 and L6oville-
Las-Cases, Léoville-Poyferré Barton, are of Saint-Julien, Saint-Julien, are commune
of made in in the the commune are made Bafton. which which are highly prized by
connoisseurs. highly prized by connoisseurs. LEPIOTA. number which aa number fungus
of of which of fungus lfptorn -- Species of LEPIOTA. LÉPIOTE of the France being
being the in France best-known in edible, the best-known varieties are are edible,
of varieties cultivated coulemelle. known as as the the coulemelle. also known
lepiota,also cultivated lepiota, LEPIDOSTEUS peculiarity of of The peculiarity
(Gar-pike). LEPIDOSTÉE rnrmosr6E - - The LEPIDOSTEUS (Gar-pike). this it is is so
that pebblyscales, thatit scales,so very hard, hard, pebbly it has has very fish is
is that that it this fish encased ofarmour. armour. suit of in aaveritable
veritable suit encased in It America. ofCentral Central America. lakesof rivers and
andlakes in the found in the rivers It is isto to be be found Its (q.v.)are
pike(g.v.) are for pike recipes for All recipes delicate. Ali fairly delicate. Its
flesh flesh is is fairly suitable dish. for this this dish. suitable for LES
CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. LAUMES -- See LES LAUMES LESSER CELANDINE. are leavesare TIFSSER
CELANDIhIE. FICAIRE whoseleaves Plantwhose FIcAIRE - - Plant s~metimes in They are
arecooked cooked in blanched. They after being being blanched. eaten after
sometimes eaten the (q.v.). asspinach wayas spinach(g.v.). thesame sameway LETTUCE.
over wildall allover Plant whicb which grows wild LAITTJE- - Plant LETTUCE. LAITUE
Europe, cultivated hasbeen beencultivated India. Ithas inIndia. andin inthe
Caucasusand Europe, in theCaucasus in fromtime immemorial. timeimmemorial. China
from inEgypt Egypt and andChina 553 553

±
LEVERET LEVERET
crga+-. Simmer for a few minutes. Serve as garnish t3:yp) CUp) cream. Simmer for a
few minutes. Serve as garnish with a suitable main dish. with a suitable main dish.
Lettuce Colbert (Vegetarian cookery). LArrrrtsr coLBERr Lettuce Colbert (Vegetarian
cookery). LAITUES COLBERT Cook the lettuces halve them. Fold the halves into pear
shapes. Squeeze them halve them. Fold the ha Ives into shapes. Squeeze them gently,
dip in egg and breadcrumbs, and deepfry. gently, dip in egg and and deep-fry.
Arrange them in in aa circle circle on on aa dish, dish, and and coyer cover with
with Arrange them Maitre th6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Maître
d'hôtel butter (see Compound butters). Creamed lettuce. LArTuEs A r-l cninre -
Halve or quarter Creamed Jettuce. LAITUES À LA - Halve or quarter braised lettuces
if they are too big and arrange them neatly braised lettuces if they are too big
and arrange them in buttered frying pan. Simmer frying pan. for 5 Simmer for 5
minutes. minutes. Coyer Cover with in aa buttered boiling fresh fresh cre cream and
simmer simmer until until this this is is reduced reduced by by boiling am and
half. Arrange the lettuces in a shallow serving dish, alternathalf. Arrange the
lettuces in a shallow serving dish, alternating them with crottons of fried bread.
Coat with the cream. them with croûtons of fried bread. Coat with the cream.
Deep,fried lettuce. LArr{JEs EN FRrror Braise the lettuces Ue,eD-In~~ lettuce.
LAITUES EN FRITOT -- Braise the Iettuces as for Braised lettuce. Fold the quarters
and put them in a as for lettuce. Fold the quarters and put them in a dish. Season
with oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Leave dish. Season with oil, lemon juice,
salt and pepper. Leave them in ttris marinade for 30 minutes. Just before serving,
them in this marinade for 30 minutes. Just before serving, dip them in a light
batter and deep-fry. Garnish with fried dip them in a light batter and deep-fry.
Garnish with fried parsley. parsIey. I-ettuce au gratin (in white sauce). LArruEs
AU GRATTN LAITUES AU GRATiN Lettuce au pour Arrange lettuces in a gratin dish. a
gratin dish. Pour Arrange halved braised lettuces (sre Mornay smtce SAUCE) over
them. Sprinkle grated with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) over them. Sprinkle with grated
cheese, pour on melted butter, and brown. cheese, pour on melted butter, and brown.
Lettuoe in grery. LArrr.'Es AU rus - Braise lettuces, halve LAITUES AU JUS - Braise
lettuces, halve Lettuce in place them in a buttered pan. Sprinkle with a them, and
them, and in a buttered pan. Sprinkle with a few tablespoons of well-seasoned brown
veal stock. Simmer. few tablespoons ofwell-seasoned brown veal stock. Simmer.
Arange the lettuces lettuces in a ring, alternating with slices of Arrange the in a
ring, alternating with slices of bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Boil Boil
down down the the cooking cooking stock, stock, add add bread butter and pour over
the dish. butter and over the dish. Lettuce i ]a la hollandaise. hollandaise.
LAITUES rlrrum À A LA u HOLLANDAISE norr,ANDArsE Lettuce Arrange on on a dish,
alternating with slices of bread fried in a dish, with slices of bread fried in
butter, halved lettuces lettuces braised in in a a vegetable stock. stock. Coyer
Cover butter, with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE, Cold sauces). with Hollandaise
sauce (see SAUCE, sauces). proc€ed as Lettuce à i l'italienne. LArruEs À A
L'ITALIENNE r'n^e,LENNe Lettuce l'italienne. LAITUES - Proceed as for Lettuce
gravy, in (see using ltalian sauce SAUCE) for Lettuce in gravy, using Italian sauce
(see SAUCE) instead of the stock. instead of the stock. Lettuce MoRNAy - ke LAITUES
MORNAY See Lettuce Le/tuce cu au gratin gratin Lettuce Mornay. Mornay. LArrrrrs (in
white sauce). (in white sauce). punng Lettue LArruE - Sieve Lettuce pur&. purée.
PURÉE DE DE LAITUE Sieve lettuces lettuces braised braised in in meat meat or or
vegetable vegetable stock stock through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat Heat this
this pur6e. To give it body, add a few tablespoons ofconcentrated purée. To give it
body, add a few tab.Jespo()llS and strained Bichamel sauce (ser, SAUCE). Season.
Mix and strained Béchamel sauce (see ...,"' ...". . . L,'. Season. Mix and add
butter. and add butter. Mashed potatoes can be added, as they can be added to the
Mashed potatoes can he added, as they can he added to the pur6es of all watery
vegetables. purées of ail watery vegetables. Lettuce sNhd. sALADE DE LArruE - See
SALAD. Lettuce salad. SALADE DE LAITUE See SALAD. Lettuce sorff6. sourrlf DE
LArruRE - Made with puree of Lettuce soufflé. SOUFFLÉ DE LAITURE - Made with purée
of lettuce in the same way as for Endive soufi| (see nNDM;. lettuce in the same way
as for Endive soufflé (see ENDIVE). Lettuce soulr. porAcE DE LArruE - See SOUPS AND
Lettuce POTAGE DE LAITUE - See SOUPS AND BROTHS, Purie of lettuce soup. BROTHS, of
lettuce soup. Stuffed lettuce. LArruEt FARcrEs- Blanch the lettuces. Cool Stutfed
lettuce. LAITUES FARCIES - Blanch the lettuces. Cool under under running running
water water and and squeeze squeeze dry. dry. Slit SHt them them in in half half
without cutting the stump. without cutting the stump. Season Season them them
inside. inside. Fill Fil! each each lettuce with a fine forcemeat mixed with
&txelles (q.v.). lettuce with a fine forcemeat mixed with duxelles (q.v.). Each
piece of mixed forcemeat should be the size of an egg. Each piece of mixed
forcemeat should be the size of an egg. Close up the lettuces, tie, and braise
them. Close the lettuces, tie, and braise them. Stuffed lettuce can be served as a
vegetable, arranged in a lettuce can be served as a vegetable, <1U<1Ul;;C;U in a
circle on a dish with fried bread between and covered with with circle on a dish
with fried bread between and any suitable sauce, or it may be used as a garnish.
any suitable sauce, or it may be used as a garnish. Lettue DE LArruE Lettuce
stumps. MoELLE MOELLE DE LAITUE - The The stumps of of cos cos lettuces which have
gone to seed are mainly used. These lettuces which gone to seed are mainly These
st-umps, after trimming, are cooked like asparagus, or in any stumps, after
trimming, are cooked like ""1.......... 0 ... ." of the ways suitable for artichoke
stalks or endive stumps. of the ways suitable for artichoke stalks or

LIAISON --See SeeTHICKENING. THICKENING. LIAISON

in butter butter in inaacovered covered pan. pan. Drain Drain and and Cook the
lettuces in

(ALA) LffiGEOISE (A tA) - - Method Methodof ofcooking, cooking, applied to to

LIÉGEOISE various foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Its Itscharacteristic characteristic
feature featureis is theuse useof of various jgniper flavouring. (SeeOFF
flavouring. (See OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETYMEATS, MEATS, juniper AL or Calves'
kidneys kidneys àd la la liégeoise; liigeorbe;THRUSH, THRUSH,Thrushes Thrushes à d
la la Calves' liigeoise.) liégeoise.) LIGHTEN. DÉTENDRE ofrnNons - - To To make
make aamixture mixture lighter lighter by by the LIGHTEN. the addition of of eggs
eggs or or sorne some Iiquid. liquid. addition
designate "'''',>AM''''''''''"'

LIGHTS. MOU Mou - - In In the the tripe tripe trade trade this this term term is is
used used to LIGHTS. to lungs of the lungs of certain certain animais. animals. For
preparation For the the preparation the -VARIETY of lambs' and and calves' calves'
lights, lights, see see OFF OFFAL or VARlETY AL or MEATS.

LIMANDELLE -- A A Hat flat fish, fish, also also called called cardine cardine or
mdre de or mère de LIMANDELLE sole,very good good to to eat. eat. It It has has an
an elongated elongated oval oval body, body, about about sole, (10 to 25 to to 35
cm. cm. 00 to 14 14 inches) inches) long, long, with with fragile, fragile, shaded
shaded 25 Its eyes scales. Its placed on eyes are are placed on the left side, the
left side, wruch which is is pale scales. yellow with with brown brown shading.
shading. Its Its blind blind si is white. side white. All de is yellow (q.v.) and
recipes for for plaice plaice (q.v.) (q.v.) are and brill brill (q.v.) are suitable
suitable for for this this
fish.

LIME. LIMON LrMoN -- Thin-skinned Thin-skinned citrus citrus fruit. fruit. LIME.
Lime tree. tree. TILLEUL TTLLETJL -- Tree Tree of of which which there there are
are several several Lime species in in Europe. The The scented scented Howers
flowers are are used in infusions used in infusions for their their soothing and
and antispasmodic antispasmodic propenies. properties. The The American species
(Tilia Americana) Americana) is is called called a a linden linden tree. The
flowers are also also used used in in pastry-making and and confectionery to
flavour creams, to Havour creams, ices ices and sweets (desserts) of tp,..t"'Inp,c"
various kinds.
LIMONADIERS Name given in in France in in former former times LIMONADIERS - Name to
sellers sellers of non-alcoholic drinks. In of non-alcoholic In the the Middle Ages
Ages the to only drinks drinks available available were beer, beeE hippocras
(mead), sweet or only h91V win wines. Anyone was was free free to to stock stock
and and sel! sell wines, heavy es. Anyone without seeking seeking permission of any
any authority. authority. In In the without permission of the sixte91th teenth
century, century, spirits began began to be widely drunk. They were sold by small
glassful sold by the the smalJ glassful at vinegar shops. It was It was the the
Italians, Italians, many of whom fofowed Catherine de Medici Medici into into
France, France, who who introduced a a number number of entirelv entirely new Among
these these were lemonade, orangeade, orangeade, bitte-r bitter new drinks. drinks.
Among citror citron cordial, cordial, frangipane frangipane water, sherbets,
popilo, populo, etc. The drink drink which which found found most most favour
favour with the public was lemonlemonade, ade, and and the the name name
limotadiers limonadiers stuck to ihop shop keepers who who sold sold other other
drinks drinks as as well. weil. LIMOUSIN LIMOUSIN - See See MARCHE MARCHE AND AND
LIMOUSIN. LIMOUSIN. LIMOUSII\E (A LA) LIMOUSINE (A LA) - Method Method of of
preparing nrpnllT',na red cabbage. Cuts Cuts of of meat meat and and poultry
poultry garnished garnislhed with red cabbige

cooked cooked in in this this way way are are also also called d la limousine.

LIMOUX, LIMOUX, BLANQUETIE BLANQUETIE DE DE - Sparkling Sparkling wine, wine,

fairly fairly heavy, at Limoux Limoux in in the the Aude Aude district. district.
heavy, made made at

LIMPET. LIMPET. BERNTcLE BERNICLE - See See BARNACLE. BARNACLE. LII\E. LINE. FoNcER
FONCER - To To cover coyer the the bottom bottom of of a a stewpan stewpan or or
saucepan sauce pan with with strips of of bacon bacon and and rounds rounds of of
vegetables; vegetables; or or to to cover cover the the inside of of a a terrine
terrine with with strips of of pork fat; fat; or or to to cover coyer the the sides
sides and and bottom bottom of of a a mould or or dish with with pastry. pastry.

LING. LING.LTNGTJE LINGUE- Fish Fish of ofthe the cod cod family, also called sea
burbot or or long long cod.It cod. Itis isfished fished in in the the same same
latitudes as ascod. cod. It Itis is quite quite good good to to eat, eat, is is
often often salted salted like Iike cod, cod, and and is is prepared prepared in in
the the same cod (q.v.) (q.v.) or orcodling. codling. same way way as as cod In In
U.S.A. U.S.A. the the name name ling Jing is is sometimes sometimes given given to
to the the freshfreshwater waterburbot. burbot.

LEVERET. LEVERET. LEVRAUT LEVRAUT-- Young Young hare. hare. (See (SeeHARE.) HARE.)
LE\/R,OUX LEVROUX-- See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE.
554 554

LINNET. LINNET. LrNor-LrNorrs LINOT-LfNOTTE-- Small, Small, edible edible but but
rather rathertasteless tasteless bird on linseed linseed or or hempseed. hempseed.
It It is is prepared prepared in in bird which which feeds feeds on
the the same sameway wayas aslark lark(q.v.). (q.v.).
LIQUEUR LIQUEUR
LION LION- Lion Lion meat, meat, though though edible, edible, is is seldom seldom
used used in in cookery. cookery. It is is rather rather tasteless tasteless and
and must must be be steeped steeped in in an an aromatic aromatic It marinade
before before cooking. cooking. marinade Ali recipes recipes for for beef beef
(q.v.) (q.v.) are are suitable suitable for for lion. lion. All
~ ............,""'.'-"" - Name Name given given to to various various composite
alcoholic alcoholic LIQLIELTR of spirits spirits Nowadays these these are are made
made from from a a mixture of drinks. Nowadays and syrups. syrups. There There are
are innumerable innumerable liqueurs liqueurs with with many many and different
names. names. Their Their alcoholic alcoholic content content varies. varies.
different can be be made made in the the home. home. Their quality quality varies
varies Liqueurs can ae<:or,Olntg to ta the the spirits or alcohol alcohol used.
used. according Ali home-made home-made liqueurs are made made by steeping fruit
and All other basic basic ingredients ingredients in alcohol alcohol or spirits.
The best spirits spmts other to use use are 80°) proof. Liqueurs made in this way
70' (US 80") are 70° to are often often called ratafias. ratafias. are 1. uQurun,
LIQUEUR, RATAFIA D'AcAcIA D'ACACIA * Acacia liqueur or ratafia I. oz-) Remove
stalks from acacia flowers and steep 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) Remove the flowers in I 1
litre (lt pints, generous quart) spirits, of the preferably white, white, proof
proof 88' (US 100'). preferably to infuse infuse for for 1 mont[ month, keeping the
the hermetically hermetically Leave to container in a warm warm place. sealed
container of a month add g. (4 oz., i add 125 g' At the end of * cup) sugar. Stir
ail the sugar has dissolved. This takes from time to time until all and bottle.
through filter paper, and about 2 weeks. Filter through LIQLJEUR, RATAFIA 0 (old
rectpe). recipe). LIQUEUR, RATAfIA Acacia liqueur or ratafia tr (7 oz.) dish in a a
deep dish D'ACACIA - Put g. (7 oz) acacia acacra flowers in Put 200 g. D'AcAcIA
with alternate layers of fine sugar. Steep Steep for 24 hours. (scant pint,
generous cup) water Moisten 2+ dl. dl. (seant Moisten with with 2i a syrup made
with and the strained liquid a Add to to the and strain. strain, Add g. 750 g.
sugar (t pint, i the remaining sugar 1+ dl. (i - 750 t cup) water and the (1 pint,
pint' dl. (1 add 6 6 dl. (l+ lb., 3 cups) in ail. all. Finally, add are needed in
cups) are 2| cups) cups) spirits. and bottle. few months. Filter and a few Leave to
to steep steep for a n'lNctltqun RATAFIA D'ANGÉLIQUE LIQUEIR, RATAfIA Angelica
liqueur liqueur or ratafia. LIQUEUR, (21b., 7 lump 7 cups) cups) lump (21b.)
angelica, 900 g. (2Ib., g. (2Ib.) angelica, 900 900 g. Ingredients. 900 -
Inffrediem's. (2 sugar,5 l| tablespoons tablespoons (2 quarts) spirits, li quarts,
5t 5j quarts) sugar, 5 litres (4| quarts, clove, tlitre tablespoons) teaspoon
nutmeg, I c1ove, nutmeg, 1 l leaspoon tablespoons) cinlimon, 1 { litre (scant ps)
filtered water. water. (scant pint, 2i cups) 2] cu Method. pieces and and put them
them into small small pieces angelica into Cut the the angeliea Method. Cut
together with ingredients in a and other other m~~relillents with the the sugar,
spirits, and jar. Seal leave for 2 months. and leave large jar. the jar
hermetically and Seal the Press the the large bowl. over a a large bowl. Press a
fine strainer strainer over Sieve through through a juice. pieces all the extract
ail the juice. pieces of of angelica angelica to to extraet Filter through and keep
keep at well, and at cork weil, Bottle, cork filter paper. Bottle, through filter a
a cellar. cellar. rather than than a a moderate moderate temperature, temperature,
in a cupboard rather Anise RATAFIA r,tQunuR, RATAFIA I. LIQUEUR, or anisette
anisette liquern or rataffa 1. Anise or D'ANIS green, crushed anise, (,wrserrr) -
Put 25 g. (1 crushed anise, oz.) green, 25 g. D'ANIS (ANISETTE) 0 oz.) (2
tablespoons) teaspoon tablespoons) tablespoons (2 cinnamon, li tablespoons teaspoon
cinnamon, quart) spirits. coriander generous quart) pints, generous spirits. litre
(Ii pints, into 1 litre coriander into Infuse th. Add (18 oz., sugar cups) sugar
oz., 2* 2| cups) 500 g. (18 Infuse for for 1 I mon month. Add 500 dissolved Filter
and bottle. bottle. water. Filter dissolved in in a little water. a !iUle Anise
D'ANIS RATAFIA D'ANIS t"tQusuR, RATAFIA liquern or or ratafia ratafia II. LIQUEUR,
Anise liqueur Make kg. (st I litre litre (1 i (51 lb., and 1 I I cups) cups) sugar
sugar and lb., II of2i Ztkg. a syrup Make a syrup of pints, muslin. quart) water.
Strain through through muslin. gerierous quart) water. Strain pints, generous
Dissolve g. (eboz.) oz.) anise, I g. (lt oz.) g. (io essence of Chinese anise, of
Chinese oz.) essence Dissolve 3 3g. mon, essence (-r oz.) g.<iD cinnamon, oz.)
essence of cinna orange, t g. of Seville Seville orange, essence of 5 (# oz{essence
of of nutmeg, (t oz.) I g.(-sbanise, 1 g. (i of anise, essence of 5 g. oz.) essence
1 (* oz.) g. (! oz.)spirits spirits 70" (# oz.) in 15 15g. of vanilla in oz.)
tincture tincture of I g. (fa(US 80°) proof. 80") proof. Mix (21pints, pints)
pints, 3t pints) litres (2i and add add li litres thoroughly and Mrrr thoroughly
alcohol for 24hours. hours' (US 97°) proof. Leave Leave to to stand stand for 85'
(US 97') proof. alcohol 85° Filter Filter and and bottle. bottle. glsan of Anise
(old recipe). LIQTJEUR, rTror ofaruseed aniseed (old 61cream Anise liquernro CRÈME
(4 oz.) whole whole aniseed, 4 litres (3! 100 g. (4 cninrm o'lxts - 100 quarts,
proof. 42")proof. 36" (US42°) guarts, 41 quarts) spirits 36° 4|quarts) Infuse
muslin. strain through through muslin. days and andstrain Infuse for for66days Add
lb., 13 litres (3| (61lb., in22litres dissolvedin 13cups) cups)sugar sugar
dissolved kg. (6! Add 33kg. pints, pints, 4! pints) water. 4|pints) water.

* f
-

lf (ti

n.

(lf

lf

Leave Leave to to stand stand for for several several days, days, until until the
the liqueur liqueur is is clear. clear. Strain Strain through muslin. muslin.
Apricot Apricot liqueur. LIQUELJR LIQUEUR D'ABRtcor D'ABRICOT - Ingredients.
Ingredients. 30 30 apricots, apricots, 4 4 litres (3f Oi quarts, quarts, 4| 4!
quarts) quarts) white white wine, wine, I 1 kg' kg. quart) (If, generous pints, (t+
(2i lb., lb., 4f 4t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I 1 litre litre Oi pints, generous
quart) 58" 58° (US (US 66") 66°) proof proof spirits, spirits, It tablespoons
tablespoons (2 (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) cinnamon. cinnamon. the Moisten with
apricots in Method. Method. Put Put the the apricots in a a large pan. Moisten with
the white white wine and bring bring to to the the boil. boil. Add the sugar,
cinnamon and spirits. for infuse for to infuse and leave Cover and heat. Cover off
the Take the pan pan off the heat. leave to bottles tightly. tightly. the bottles
Cork the 4 days. Strain, Strain, filter, filter, and and bottle. bottle. Cork Keep
in a dry place. place. Ingredients' DE CASSIS cAssls - Ingredients. rtQurun DE I.
LIQUEUR Blackcurrant Bhlck.cwrralllt liqueur liqueur 1. (2i lb.) lb.) blackblack' I
kg. kg. (2i quart) spirits, (lt pints, generous quart) pints, generous spirits, 1 I
1 litre litre (li ($ oz.) I g. g. (faoz.) I c1ove, clove, 1 g. (tt sugar, 1 tU. 31
iSO g. 4 cups) currants, 750 (li lb. sugar, "ups) l0 blackblackflavour, add add 10
give a a To give stronger flavour, stick. To cinnamon stick. cinnamon top branches.
branches. from the the top the greenest available, from currant leaves, the currant
leaves blackcurrant leaves cinnamon and Put the and blackcurrant the clove,
cinnamon Method. Put picked over and over and blackcurrants, picked lay the
blackcurrants, top lay a bowl. On top in a bowl. On in add mix, add them, mix, over
them, the spirits spirits over hand. Pour the well crushed crushed by hand. weil
and a stone jar and mixture in in a the mixture again. Put the and mu mix again.
the sugar and (in the for the sun, sun, if possible) for a warm warm place (in
seal. Keep the jar in a seal. of infusion. At the end of a thorough infusion.
ensure a I month to ensure at least 1 at a bowl. bowl, over a a sieve sieve over
liqueur through a the liqueur strain the time strain this time this linen pulp in a
coarse coarse linen in a squeezing the pulp liquid by all liquid by squeezing
Extract aIl Extract cloth. c1oth. liqueur. the liqueur. and bottle bottle the
Filter and sugaq dissolve the the sugar, help dissolve to heip not be be added
added to Water should should not Water of the the liqueur. content of alcohol
content the alcohol would lower lower the since this this would since (18 oz.,
cups) g. (18 oz., 2$ cups) plain syrup of of 500 500 g. a plain add a If too too
strong, strong, add If (scant pint, cold. water. Dissolve Dissolve cold. pint, 2f
cups) cups) water. litre (scant to f litre sugar to sugar DE CASSIS cAssls LIQUEUR
DE recipe). LIQUEUR tr (old recipe). liquern 0 Blackcurrant liqueur Blackcurrant
each of of (2* lb.) teaspoon each lb.) blackcurrants, 1 teaspoon kg. (2i Infuse 1
kg. Infuse (51 pints, pints, 6t 3 litres litres (5! ground c10ves and ground
cinnamono 3 cloves and (lf lb., inaaiar.l*ave g. (l~ sugar in lb., 3! 3| cups)
sugar pints) spirits and 750 g. spirits and jar. Leave day. every day. for 15 15
days, days, mixing mixing every perfectly c1ear, clear, when perfectly and, when
filter, and, muslin, filter, through muslin, Strain through Strain bottle. bottle.
RATAFIA D'OEILLETD'oEILLET ratafia. LIQUEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFIA or ratafia. liquern
or Carnation liqueur Carnation quart) alcohol, at 39° 39' alcohol, at pints,
generous quart) litre (Ii pints, I litre Steep in in 1 Steep (9 oz.) carnation
petals.Spice Spice with with aa g. (9 (US,|4') carnation petais. proof, 250 250 g.
(US 44°) proof, I mon then for 1 month, Leave for cinnamon. Leave clove and and -!-
teaspoon teaspoon cinnamon. c10ve th, then filter. filter. (18 oz., g.(18 cups)
sugar and 2l cups) oz., 2* from 500 500 g. made from Add aa syrup made Add (scant
pint,2t onc€ more. more. Bottle. water. Filter Filter once litre (scant ! litre 2*
cups) water. DECERISE cERlsERATAFIA DE LIQUEUR, RATAFIA liqueur or or ratafia.
LIQUEUR, Cherry liqueur Cherry with the stones. thestones. cherries with (8t lb.)
lb.) Montmorency Montmorency cherries a kg. Crush 4 kg. (8i Crush for44days. days.
ferment for leave to to ferment and leave in aa bowl bowl and Put them them in Put
(US44°) 44") 39"(US alcohol,39° quafts, 4f quarts) alcohol, 4 litres litres (3*
quarts, Add 4 Add themixture mixture Put the sugar. Put proof spirit, and Ikg.
ke.Qilb, and1 (2! lb., +cups) sugar. jar and through Squeezethrough for aamonth.
month. Squeeze leaveto toinfuse infuse for and leave inaajar bottle. Filter and
andboule. muslin. muslin. Filter sfle. LIQUEUR, LIQUEUR, Grenoble style. or
ratafia, ratafia, Grenoble liquern or Cherry Cherryliqueur in22 Infuse in cRENoBLE
- Infuse regoN DE DEGRENOBLE ALA fAÇON DECERISE RATAFIA RATAFTA DE cERIsEÀ (4oz.,
g.(4 cup)blanched 125g. o2.,3 blanched pints)brandy pints,4! 4|pints) brandy125
Jcup) litres litres (3|pints, (*oz.) leaves,1I orleaves, peachblossom blossomor 10
g.H oz.)peach kernels, 10 cherry cherrystone stone kernels, tf',,~nr,r.n 12 cloves.
cinnamon,12 teaspoon cinnamon, withthe the is thoroughly impregnated with brandy is
When the thebrandy (3fpints, pints, pour it over 2 litresOi ingredients, pour aroma
ofthese these ingredients, aromaof (18oz., juice with g.(18 2fcups) cups)sugar
oz.,2i sugar with500 500g. pints) cherry 4-!4|pints) cherry juice andbottle.
bottle. Filter and dissolved inil. it.Mix. Mix.Filter dissolved in DE RATAFIADE
LIQUEUR,RATAFIA stones.LIQUEUR, cherrystones. ofcherry Liqueur ratafiaof orratafia
Liqueuror of fromthe thestones stonesof canhe bemade madefrom Thiscan NOY AUX DE
DECERISES cERIsEs - -This NoyAux cherries cherriesused used for jam-making. quite
dry, crush arequite theyare Wash dry thestones. anddry stones. Whenthey Washand
allowing1Ikg. kg. (2| lb., them. infusein inalcohol, alcohol,allowing toinfuse
Putthem themta them.Put quart) spirits. (If,pints, generousquart) pints,generous
litre(li 66cups) to1Ilitre cups)stones stonesto

lj

(l|

ot

555
LIQUEUR
Proceed as asindicated indicated in previous recipe. in the the previous recipe.
Proceed Citron liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LIQUEUR, LreuEUR, RATAFIA RATAFTA DE
oECÉDRAT cfnnAr -Citron juice of Made with the peel and and juice ofcitrons,
citrons, in in the the same sameway way as as Made Orange ratafia ratafia
(seebelow). below). Orange (old recipe). liqueur(old recipe). LIQUEUR LreuEr.rR DE
on CAFÉ clrERoast lj kg. Coffee - Roast kg. .Coffee liqueur -finE. (3t lb., 13
cups) lb., 13 cups) best best mocba mocha beans grind very beans and and grind very
(3t Infuse in in 5 litres (4| quarts, 51 5 litres (US 66°) 5j quarts) alcohol
alcohol 58° 58. (US 66.) Infuse proof, and and 4 litres (3| quarts, 4 litres
quarts, 4f quarts) quarts) water. water. After After 10 l0 proof, days of of
infusion, infusion, distil in a a bain-marie bain-marie to (4| to obtain obtain 5
litres (4t 5 litres days quafts, 5t quarts). If 5| quarts). If aa stronger fiavour
flavour of of coffee coffee is is desired, desired, quarts, more fresh fresh coffee
coffee can can be be infused in in the the liqueur. liqueur. Next, Next, more
(51lb., dissolve 21 2ike. ll cups) (4| pints, cups) sugar sugar in in 2t litres
(412| litres pints, dissolve kg. (51 lb., Il pints) water 5i pints) water and and
add add this this to to the liqueur. Leave the liqueur. Leave to to stand stand 51
overnight and and fil filter next day. day. overnight ter next Curagao liquern.
LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE CURAÇAO cuRAgAo -- Ingredients. Ingredients. Curaçao g. (2
oz.) bitter orange peel, I teaspoon cinnamon, 30 g. 50 g. 50 (2 oz.) peel, 1
cinnamon, 30 g. (l oz.) Pern Pernambuco I clove, clove, 1 I litre (l| pints,
generous generous (1 oz.) am buco bark, 1 qlart) pure pure wine (US 90°) wine
alcohol alcohol 79° 79' (US (18 oz., 90') proof, 500 g. (18 500 g. oz., quart)
(scant pint, 2f cups) cups) sugar, sugar, t litre (seant ping 2* 2f,cups) water. I
litre 2* Metlnd. Infuse Infuse the the orange orange peel, peel, pernambuco bark,
bark, Method. cinnamon and and c10ve clove for for 3 3 weeks. weeks. Make Make a a
syrup syrup of of the the sugar sugar cinnamon and water water and and pour it it
over over these these ing:rec!îerHs. ingredients. and Filter and and bottle. If If
necessary, necessary, colour with with carmine carmine and and Filter caramel.
caramel. Dantzig liqueur. liquern. LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE DANTZIG DANrzrc This
liqueur is Dantzig - This made from from sweetened (US 97°) sweetened 85° 85" (US
97") proof grain spirits with made water added, added, and and flavoured flavoured
with with various herbs. water The characteristic characteristic feature feature of
of this liqueur is this liqueur is that that it it has has tiny tiny The gold
specks of of go leaf floating floating in it. in it. Id leaf Fennel liqueur.
liqueur. LIQUEUR LreuErJR DE DE FENOUIL FENourL This is is made made from from -
This fennel stalks in the stalks in the sa same way as as Angelica fennel me way
Angelica liqueur. Grande-Charheuse The liqueur liqueur of the the
GrandeGrandeGrande-Chartreuse - The generally called Chartreuse, generally called
Chartreuse, Chartreuse, is is one one of of the the most most Chartreuse, famous
liqueurs liqueurs now now being being made. It is is produced the produced by the
famous made. It distillation of gathered in of herbs is distillation berbs gathered
in Alpine regions, and is named after the of the where named after the monastery
monastery of the Grande-Chartreuse, where it it was was first first manufactured
manufactured by by the the monks. monks. Juniper Juniper liqueur liqueur or or
ratafia ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA pn DE csNrivRn GENIÈvRE(8i Make
a syrup 4 of kg. lb., lfi cups) Make a syrup of 4 kg. (8i lb., 17t cups) sugar
sugar dissolved dissolved in in a a little !ittle water. water. With With this this
syrup, moisten moisten 4 4 litres litres ($ quafts, 4! 4t quarts) juniper berries
placed in a stone crock with 4 litres berries in a stone crock 4 litres (3f quarts,
4f quarts) quarts) alcohol. Seal and and leave to to infuse infuse for for 15 15
days, days, shaking shaking the the crock crock from from time time to to time time
after after the the first first 3 3 or or 4 4 tays. "days. Strain Strain the the
liqueur through a a muslin muslin bag. Bottle. Bottle. This liqueur is good good
only only when it it has has been been kept kept a a very very long long time.
time. Lemon Lemon liqueur liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LreuErJR, LIQUEUR,
RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE crrRoN CITRON Made Made with with the the peel and and juice
juice of of lemons, lemons, in in the the same same way way as as (see below).
Orange liEteur Orange Orange Orange liquern or ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA
RATAFIA D'oRANcE D'ORANGE Ingredients. Ingredients. 6 oranges, I litre litre (If;
(li pints, generous quart) brandy brandy or or pure pure white spirits spiri ts of
of wine, wine, 500 g. g. (18 oz., oz., 4 cups) lump teaspoon lump sugar, sugar, I t
teaspoon cinnamon, cinnamon, jt teaspoon teaspoon coriander. coriander. Method.
Method. Peel Peel the the oranges oranges carefully, carefully, so so that tbat
none none of of the the white white pith pith is is mixed mixed with with the the
outer outer rind. rind. Chop Chop the the rind rind finely. finely. Squeeze the the
juice juice of of the the oranges into into a a jar. jar. Add Add the the sugar to
to the juice. Add Add the the chopped chopped rind, cinnamon cinnamon and and
coriander. COliallde:r. Pour Pour on on the the spirits spirits and and mix mix all
ail together. together. Leave Leave to to infuse infuse for for 2 2 months. months.
Filter Filter and and bottle. bottle. Orange Orange blossom blossom liqueur liqueur
or or ratafia. ratafia. LrerJEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE FLEURS D'oRANGR
FLEURS D'ORANGER - Made Made from from the the petals petaIs of of orange orange
blossom blossom in in the the same same way way as as Carrution Carnation liqueur.
liqueur. Liquern Liqueur or or ratafia ratafia of of peach peach and and apricot
apricot stones. stones. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DENoyArx NOYAUX --
Made Made from from peach peacb and and apricot apricot stones, stones, or mixture
a or a mixture of ofthe the two. two. Half-fill Half-fill a a stone stone crock
crock with with whole whole stones. stones. Fill Fil! up up with with
556 556

white alcohol. alcohol. Leave Leave to infuse for to infuse for H lj months,
months,placing placing the white the crock either either in in the thesun sunor
orin inaahot hot place. crack Tlke out quarter of out aaquarter ofthe stones. Crack
them themand put the Take the stones. and put the shells and and kernels kernels
back back in in the the crock. crock. Leave Le,ave to to infuse infusefor sheJls
for another 15 15days. days. Draw Draw off off the the liqueur. liqueur. Add Add an
another an equal equal quantity of of water water with (12 oz., with 350 g. (I2 350
g. ll cups) sugar per oz., lt per (scant quart, litre (seant quart, generous quart)
quart) dissolved dissolved in it. Afteil0 10 days, filter filter and and bottle.
days, (old recipe). Peppermint liqueur liquern (old recipe). LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE
MENTHE MENTHE -Peppermint 2* ke.(s+ lb., II I I cups) cups) white white sugar on
the stove in Dissolve (5t lb., ?issolve 2t (3 pints, 4 lf litres litres (3 4 pints)
water. water. Add Add 2 2 litres (3* pints, 4| pints) alcohol, 58° 58' (US 66°)
proof, and 66) proof, g. (t oz.) essence and 1 I g. of mint. mint. Leave for for 30
30 days. days. Filter Filterthrough paper. filter through fil ter paper. Leave
Persico or or perslcot - A1coholic Alcoholic liqueur, liqueur, made made of of eau-
de-vie, eou-de-vie, Persico peach stone stone kernels, sugar sugar and and aromatic
aromatic substances. substances. It It is peach is used for for flavouring
flavouring pastry pastry desserts. desserts. used liquern or (quince water) 1.
ratafia (qwnce or ratafia I. LIQUEUR, r,rqurun, Quince Quince liqueur RATAFTA DE DE
COING corNc (nlu DE on COING) quinces into corNc) -- Cut Cut the quinces into
RATAFIA quarters. Remove Remove pipo and and shred shred the the fruit fruit
without without peeling. quarters. Place in in a a bowl, bowl, coyer cover and and
leave leave to to stand stand in in a Place a cool place for 3 3 days. Squeeze
Squeeze through muslin. Add Add to to the the quince juice for an equal quantity
quantity of of spirits. To (scant quart, To every every litre litre (seant quart,
an generous quart) quart) of of this this mixture mixture add (12 oz., g. (12 add
350 350 g. lj cups) oz., It generous cups) sugar, a a c10ve jar clove and and a a
small small piece of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Infuse Infuse in sugar, in a a jar for
2 2 months. for Strain through through a a muslin bag. bag. Bottle. IL LIQUEUR,
lrqunun, RATAFIA RATAFTA DE COINGS Quince liqueur or ratafia H. Quince corNcts
juice as P1e_pare the quince quince juice as for the previous recipe. To every
Prepare (2j pints, juice add lf litres litres (2i pints, Ji 3{ pints) juice (siant
pint, 2~ aAO } fitre (seant lt i! } litre (US 97°) cups) alcohol, 85° 85o (US 97")
proof. Add t cups) teaspoon cloves, 1 I + teaspoon teaspoon cinnamon, cinnamon, a a
pinch of ground ground mace mace and and I or teaspoon or 2 teaspoons bitter
è1HIIVI.tU:'. almonds. teaspoons Leave the the mixture to to infuse infuse for for
2 2 months. Leave months. Then Then add add a (cold) made from 225 g. (8 (8 oz.,
oz., 1 I cup) sugar dissolved syrup (cold) dissolved (+ pint, seant on the the
stove stove in 2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) water. on Filter and bottle. Filter bottle.
Raspberry R~<i:n .... rl"" liqueur on or ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA
DE DE FRAMFRAMBorsr BOISE - Put I kg. (2* lb.) very ripe raspberries in a jar. jar.
Cover Coyer with 4 litres litres (3* quarts, quarts, 4f 4-î quarts) spirits. Cork
the jar jar and witb 4 leave jar in in the the sun leave to to infuse infuse for
for 2 2 months, putting the jar whenever whenever possible. possible. Add Add to
the liqueur 500 g. (18 (l8 oz., 2| 2i cups) sugar, sugar, barely barely moistened
moistened to dissolve dissolve it. Filter Filter and bottle. bottle. Tangerine
Tangerine liqueur or ratafia. LIeuEr.JR, LIQUEUR, RATAFT.A RATAFIA DE DE
MANMANDARINE DARINE - Proceed as for Orange Orange liqueur, using using the peel
peel and and juice juice oftangerines. of tangerines. Vrnilla Vanilla liqueun
liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA A À r,e LA
vlNrur.B VANILLEInfuse Infuse 3 3 vanilla vanilla pods pods in in 1 1 litre litre
(If; (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) spirits for 15 days. days. Mix Mix
with with a a very very thick thick syrup. syrup. Filter Filter and for 15

(3t

bottle.
Verbena Verbena liquern or or rateffa. ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA
DE DE VERvETNE VERVEINE Made Made with verbena ver:bena leaves leaves in in the the
same sa me way way as as Vanilla Vanilla liqueur. liqueur. Violet Violet liquern
liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LreuErJR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE vToLETTE
VIOLETTE Made Made with with violets violets in in the the same same way as as
Camation Carnation liqueur. liqueur. Walnut Wa)nut liquern liqueur or or ratafia
ratafia (walnut water water or or cordial). LrerJErrR LIQUEUR RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE
Norx NOIX (nnou, (BROU, EAU EAU DE DE Norx) NOIX) - Split Split in half 20 green
green walnuts walnuts and and put put them them in in a a jar jar with with lf
Hlitres litres half 20 (2f; (2i pints, pints, 3| pints) pints) spirits. spirits.
Cork Cork tightly. tightly. Leave in a a cool cool place, place, Leave this mixture
mixture to to infuse infuse for for 6 6 weeks weeks in shaking the the jar jar from
from time time to to time. time. Strain through through a a cloth. clotho Add Add a
a syrup syrup made made from from 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2f 2t cups) cups)
sugar sugar and and 2j 21 dl. dl. (scint (seant j pint, pint, gene.o,is generous
cup) of cup) boiled boiled water, water, also also a a little !ittle cinnamon cinna
mon and and a a pinch pin ch of coriander. coriander. Leave Leave to to infuse
infuse for for another another month. month. Strain Strain and and bottle. bottle.

t
LOACH LOACH
1

carm6Hte. Icarmélite. LIeuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFIA RATAFIA DE DE NoD( NOIX (rRou,

(BROU, EAU EAU DE DE Notx NOIX A À rl iLA clnufurs) CARMÉLITE) - Proceed Proceed as
as indicated indicated in in the the previous previous recipe, recipe,

Walnut Walout liquern liqueur or or ratafia ratafia (walnut (walout water water or
or cordial) cordial) ià la la

LMR. LIVER. FoIE FOIE -

using 100 100 green green walnuts walnuts and and I ! tablespoon tablespoon cloves.
cloyes. The The using walnuts I walnuts must must be be unripe unripe so so that
that they they can can be be pierced pierced with with a a thick pin. pin. thick 1
When Wh en the the mixture mixture has has infused infused for for 2 2 months,
months, add add 2 2 kg. kg. (4+ 1 (4! lb., lb., 9 9 cups) cups) sugar. sugar.
Proceed as as indicated indicated in in the the previous previous recipe. recipe.
Proceed
1

The The liver liver is is the the largest largest and and most most important
important of of the the glands glands attached attached to to the the digestive
digestive organs. organs. game are The The livers livers of of slaughtered
slaughtered animals, animais, poultry poultry and and game are such as as fish,
such all in cookery, cookery, as as are are those those of of one one or or two two
fish, ail used used in turbot turbot and and skate. skate. (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or
or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) all the describe ail to describe LWESTOCK.
LIVESTOCK. sEr,AIr BÉTAIL - This This word word is is used used to the raised on
food, for intended animals particularly animals, animais, particularly animais
intended for food, raised on cattle-breeding cattle-breeding farms. farms. farmyard
to small small farmyard applied to is also also applied word is Erroneously
Erroneously this this word rabbits. hutch rabbits. poultry and and hutch of poultry
animals, animais, various various types types of heading this heading come under
under this which should should come animals which The The only only animais pigs.
lambs and and pigs. sheep, lambs calves, sheep, cows, calves, oxen, cows, are are
bullocks, bullocks, oxen,

ILIQUEUR or or DESSERT DESSERT WII\ES. WINES. vINs VINS DE DE LIQUEIJR

LIQUEUR LIQUEUR -

rName given to to any any wine wine which which is is both both sweet sweet and
intoxicating. intoxicating. Name given these wines, wines, which which are mainly
mainly drunk drunk as as ap6ritifs apéritifs IAmong Among these land used in
cooking and confectionery, confectionery, the following following are and used well
known: known: Frontignac, Frontignac, Muscatel, Muscatel, Lunel, Lunel, Grenache,
Grenache, well IBanyuls, Banyuls, Madeira, Madeira, Malaga, Malaga, Malmsey,
Malmsey, Marsala, Marsala, Port, Lacrima-Christi. Sherry, Lacrima-Christi.

l
1

ILIQUORICE. RÉGLISSE - Leguminous Leguminous plant found found mainly mainly

LIQUORICE. nfcr,lsse in Spain and Sicily. Its rhizome contains a sweet substance, a
sweet and when when soaked soaked or or infused infused in provides a in water,
water, provides and drink. Solidified liquorice comes cornes from a watery extract
obtained Solidified a solid to a by strong strong pressure, pressure, which which
is is then then evaporated to by black in colour, consistency. It is and is
generally moulded colour, and is black consistency. a sweet tasting, a when broken,
sweet sticks, glossy when into cylindrical sticks, extent when to sorne some extent
little bitter and in water to and sharp, sharp, soluble in little pure.

;.
t* t
1tt.
Humberl Alex Humbert Livre d'or d'orof ofAlex. Livre (Phot.X) X) (Phol.

".1 ,t

Litchis branch Litchis on onaabranch

LITCHI probably of of fruit, probably This fnùt, LETcHI -- This LICHEE. LETCHI
LITCHI or or LICHEE. Chinese Philippine India, the the Philippine in India,
cultivated in also cultivated is also Chinese origin, origin, is Islands It has
hasthe the Far East. East' It of the the Far countries of Islands and and other
other countries appearance andhas hasaa ofaacherry, cherry, and about the thesize
sizeof berryabout appearance of of aa berry large inflavour. flavour' musky in
andmusky pulp is is white, white,sweet sweetand The pulp large stone. stone. The It
easily awayeasily comes away which cornes shell which and scaly hard and scaly
shell It has has aa thin, thin, hard from greenish at turns atfi.rst, first, then
thenitit turns is greenish The shell fruit. The shell is from the the fruit. pink,
ripe, red. red. fully ripe, pink, and andwhen whenfully For It shell' It dryin
inits itsshell. leftto todry isusually fruit is usually left For export, export,
the the fruit then withaaslightly prune, is verysweet slightly sweetwith isvery
likeaaprune, black like thenturns turns black acid nuts. litchi nuts. lichee or
orlitchi calledlichee andis iscalled acid flavour, flavour,and Fresh andthose those
storesand delicatessenstores insorne licheesare aresold soldin somedelicatessen
Fresh lichees specialising fruits. inexotic exoticfruits. specialisingin LITRON
bushel Anold oldbushel measure.An liquid measure. French liquid Old French LITRON -
- Old measured gallons)and (2f;gallons, gallons,3! anda a 3|gallons) 13litres
litres(2i about 13 measured about litron ofaabushel. bushel. litron was
wasaasixteenth sixteenthof LITTLE (Fieldduck). Migratory ceNspEr$nr - -Migratory
duck).CANEPETIÈRE BUSTARD(Field LITTLE BUSTARD European family. waderfamily.
thewader ofthe wild bird birdof Europeanwild UV AROT - See CHEESE. CHEESE. See
LMROT

especially book' especially visitors' book, for the thevisitors' term for French
term D'ORLME D'OR LIVRE - French to restaurateur to by the the restaurateur offered
by (in this oneoffered the one context) the this context) (in repository
therepository becomes the it becomes often it All too too often clients. Ail
enthusiastic clients. enthusiastic jokes; sometimes, sometimes, and tasteless
tasteless jokes; compliments and of banal banal compliments of drawhumorous
drawandhumorous witticisms and cleverwitticisms it con contains however, tains
clever however, it establishment. logbook of ofthe theestablishment. worthy logbook
and becomes becomes aaworthy ings ingsand -Cun ofthe the livred'or d'orof thelivre
whatthe forexample, example,what yo.,imagine, imagine, for Can you with the the
todaywith betoday could be Cancale could of Cancale restaurant of Rocher Rocher
restaurant Eugdne Baudelaire,Eugène Hugo, Baudelaire, Victor Hugo, Balzac,Victor of
Balzac, signatures signatures of Flaubert? andFlaubert? Sue, Goncourts and
theGoncourts Sue,the forexexThat,for treasures.That, veritabletreasures.
areveritable d'orare Sorne /ivresd'or Some livres restaurateur-cumPuteaux,
restaurateur-cumofPuteaux, Renaultof ample, ofCamille Camille Renault ample,of
contains andcon volumesand toseven sevenvolumes runsto whichruns arts,wbich patron
tains patron of ofthe thearts, Villon, byVillon, signedby drawingssigned
anddrawings paintings, paintings, watercolours watercolours and etc. L6ger,etc.
FernandLéger, Braque,Fernand Picasso,Braque, Reynold Arnould, Picasso, iteynold
Arnould, of restaurantof Saint-Antoine restaurant GrandSaint-Antoine theGrand ofthe
d'orof In inthe livred'or thelivre first thefirst fromthe lineagefrom itslineage
traceits cantrace familycan Albi, Rieuxfamily Albi,tbe theRieux tlte ofSam, Sam,the
d'orof livred'or the/ivre Thenthere thereisisthe entry Jaurds.Then byJaurès. entry
by all boastsail which Pontchartrain, which ofPontchartrain, troubadour-
restaurateur boasts trou-badour-restaurateur of more' manymore. andmany itstime
time- -and ofits famousof the ofthe thefamous signatures of thesignatures passedthe
thetime time friendspassed hisfriends andhis During Picassoand war,Picasso thewar,
During the restaurant' Catalanrestaurant. ofthe the Catalan drawing
papertableclotbs tableclothsof onthe thepaper drawing on
drawcollecteddrawpublishedthese these The collected Hugnetpublished poetGeorges
GeorgesHugnet Thepoet wine) red and (somecoloured coffeeand mustard,coffee inin aa
ings red wine) withmustard, colouredwith ings(sorne all onlyail Catalan.If du Nappe
as theNappe luxury the du Cala/an. If only knownas luiuryedition editionknown
livres calibre ! ofthis thiscalibre! wereof d'orwere livresd'or

Peru. foundinin LLAMA. found Peru. ItItisis mammal Ruminantmammal LAMA- -Ruminant
LLAMA.LAMA as beef (q.v.). way edible isis cooked the same way as beef(q.v.). same
the cookedinin and edibleand
freshEuropeanfreshgiventoto LOACH. several severalEuropean Namegiven Locnn- -Name
LOACH.LOCHE and barbed. water ail inin shape and barbed. long shape alllong
waterfish, fish,

557 s57
LOAVES LOAVES

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paper tablecloths Drawings on on paper tablecloths of Drawings of the the Catalan
Catalan restaurant. Top left: restaurant. Top left: Drawing Drawing by by Pierre de
de Mandiargues. Mandiargues. BOl/om Bottom left: Pierre by left : Drawing Drawing
by by P. P. Eluard. Eluard. Above: Drawingby Above: Drawing (Phot. X) J. J. Cocteau
Cocteau (Phot. X)

There There are are three types: types: the common loach, loach, a delicate fish
found mountain streams; the sptned spined loach or groundling, groundling, found in
in mountain a a small small fish fish found found in in rivers and streams, stream
s, about about the size of a gudgeon, and rather rather leathery; leathery; the
rockling, rockling, about about the same same gudgeon, and size size as as the the
other other two, two, but but less less delicate in flavour. The loach is is eaten
eaten fried, fried, en en matelote or or d à la meuniire. meunière. pArNs LOAVES.
LOA YES. PAINS - Culinary CuIinary term tenu applied applied to dishes, served cold
or hot, hot, made made of of a a forcemeat forcemeat placed placed in a special
special mould mould cold or and and poached poached in in a a bain-marie bain-marie
(q.v.) (g.v.) if if served served hot, hot, and and set in a a mould if served
cold. cold. mould lined lined with with aspic aspic jelly jelly and and chilled
chilled if This This type type of of entrte entrée was was once once very popular.
popular. It It has has been been replaced replaced by by mousses mousses (q.v.),
(g.v.), which which are also also prepared prepared hot or cold. cold. The The
various various ingredients ingredients used used for for the the forcemeats
forcemeats are, are, as as indicated gras), game meat in individual individual
recipes, recipes, Iiver liver (foie (foie gras), indicated in (winged (winged and
and ground ground game), game), poultry pouItry and and vegetables, vegetables,
fish fish and and shellfish. shellfish.

FISH FISH AND AND SHELLFISH SHELLFISH LOAVES. LOA YESo pnns PAINS
CRUSTACfS. CRUSTACÉS.

DE DE porssoNs, POISSONS,

Pike Pike loaf loaf (hot). (hot). rlrN PAIN DE DE BRocHEr BROCHET - Dice Dice 500
500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.)
558 558

pike flesh (net weight, after c1eaning cleaning the fish). fish). Season Season
with with 1 I teaspoon pinch of white white pepper and teaspoon saIt, salt, a a
pinch and a a little grated nutmeg. Pound in a mortar into a fine paste. mortar and
in its place put 250 Remove the fish from the mortar Remove g. 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz.,
1 cup) Flour Flour panada panada (see PANADA). After pounding pounding the panada
panada thoroughly, add to it 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter. Blend by pounding
pounding together. together. Put the pike back in the mortar and pound vigorously
vigorously to perfectly smooth mixture. Add, Add, still pounding, pounding, 1
obtain a perfectly smooth mixture. I whole egg and, one by one,4 one, 4 egg egg
yolks. whole mortar, rub through a a Remove the forcemeat from the mortar, transfer
to a bowl and stir stir with a wooden spoon spoon fine sieve, transfer until very
smooth. until Butter a mould and fill with with the the mixture. Cook Cook in a
bainbainButter in the the oven oyen from from 45 45 to to 50 50 minutes, depending
depending on on marie (q.v.) (g.v.) in marie the size size of the the mould. Turn
out onto a serving servir1g dish, either either the the dish or on a a fried
cro0ton croûton of of bread. Serve Serve straight onto the straight with the the
garnish garnish and sauce sauce as as indicated indicated in the the recipe.
recipe. with Various fish fish loaves ]oaves (hot). (hot). enrNs PAINS DE DE
porssoN POISSON - Using Using carp, carp, Various salmon or or turbot turbot flesh,
flesh, prepare prepare as as described described in the the recipe recipe salmon
for Pike Pike loaf. loa! for
LOAVES LOAVES
The Tbe forcemeat forcemeat can can also also be be prepared prepared as as
described described in in the the Mousselineforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS).
FORCEMEATS). recipe for for Mousseline recipe forcemeat (see Garnishes and and
sauces. sauces. Cancalaise Cancalaise (poached (poached oysters) oysters) and and
Garnishes Normande Normande sauce; sauce; Amiricaine Américaine (slices (slices of
of spiny spiny lobster) lobster) and and American American sauce; sauce; Cardinal
Cardinal (slices (slices of of spiny spiny lobster lobster or or lobster, lobster,
truffies and and mushrooms) mushrooms) and and Cardinal Cardinal sauce; sauce;
Normande Normande truffes (mussels, (mussels, oysters, oysters, crayfish, crayfish,
mushrooms mushrooms and and truffes) truffles) and and Normande surce; sauce;
Trouvillaise Trouvi//aise (shrimps' tails, tails, mussels mussels and and Normande
mushrooms) and and Shrimp Shrimp sauce. sauce. (See (See GARNISHES, GARNISHES,
mushrooms) SAUCES.) SAUCES.) loaves (hot). rews PAINS DE DE cRusrAcns CRUSTACÉS -
Prepare Prepare a Shellfish loaves lobster, spiny lobster, lobster, crab crab or or
any other other shellfish shellfish forcemeato forcemeat, lobster, as described in
in the the recipe recipe for Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat with butter butter
(see (see FORCEMEATS), FORCEMEATS), pour into a a well-buttered mould mould with a
hole hole in the middle and poach in the the oven oyen in a bainbainmarie. marie.
Turn Tum out out onto onto a dish dish and serve serve with the garnish gamish
indicated. indicated. Pour over over a sauce sauce appropriate appropriate to the
the garnish. garnish. Pour Garnishes and and sauces. sauces. All Ali the the
garnishes gamishes and and sauces Garnishes for fish fish loaves loaves are are
applicable applicable to to shellfish recommended for loaves. loaves.
sieve sieve and and put put this this forcemeat forcerneat into into a a bowl.
bowl. Add Add 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) blanched, blanched, diced diced udder,
udder, 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) pickled pickled tongue tongue and and 50 50 g. g.
added). (2 (2 (2 oz) oz.) truffies trufHes (50 (50 g. g. (2 oz.) oz.) pistachio
pistachio nuts nuts can can also also be he added). 'Transfer 'Transfer the the
mixture mixture into into a a cylindrical-shaped cylindrical-shaped mould, rnould,
lined lined with with thin tbin rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, in in such such
a a way way as as to to have have the tbe whole whole inside inside surface surface
covered covered completely. completely. Press Press down down the the mould mould
with with a a napkin napkin to to make make the the forcemeat forcerneat take take
shape. shape. Cover Coyer with with more more bacon rashers rashers and and stand
stand the the mould rnould in in a a casserole casserole l0 10 cm. cm. (4 (4
inches) inches) larger larger than than the the mould. mould. Pour Pour enough
boiling boiling water water into into the the casserole casserole to to reach reach
to to within witrun some I 1 cm. (| (t inch) incb) of the rim. rim. Place Place on
on red red coals coals and and put put sorne the water glowing coals on the lid !id
as as well, weil, to to ensure ensure that tbat the water all the maintains - all
maintains the same temperature - almost alrnost boiling boiling the a slow slow a
bain'marie time. time. (Or (Or you you can cook the loaf loaf in in a bain-marie in
in a oven.) later if 'A later take 'A good good 2 hours later take out out the the
mould mou Id (l (1 hour bour later if put it cold on ice ice or or in a cold and
put the cooking cooking is done done in the tbe oven) oyen) and it on in a on the
cold, heat place. place. When When the the loaf is is quite guite cold, heat the
the mould mou Id on the lid. Remove casserole lido a casserole stove to loosen
loosen it it and turn tum out onto a Rernove some loaf, and and spoon spoon over
over sorne the bacon rashers rasbers covering the loaf, round. and ail all round.
warrn, clear jelly jelly on top and which of which bottom of 'Put the dish, the the
bottorn entrie dish, loaf on on an an entrée the loaf 'Put jelly, and the Garnish
the and set. set. Gamisb liquid jelly, some liquid be lined should he shouJd tined
with with sorne jelly jelly, then with jelly then with with chopped jelly, dish
first first with edges of of the edges the dish jelly.' decorate the the top with
jelly.' and decorate cro0tons, and croûtons,
DE GIBIERS GIBIERS PAINs DE LOAVES. GAME GA ME LOA YESo PAINS This is is PoIL --
This DE GIBJE~DE r.lrN DE GIBIER DE POIL game lod loaf (hot). PAIN Ground game
Ground like or deer, hare or deer, like leveret, hare flesh of of leveret,
prepared, using using the the ftesh prepared, (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). loaf (hot)
(see Chicken loaf(hot) Chicken pon À jelly. PAIN A LA u oe POIL cIBIER DE PAIN DE
DE GIBIER game loar loaf in in jelly. Ground game Grouod (see helow) game loaf
below). in jel/y loaf in Winged game Like Winged cslfE -- Like GELÉE .. ielly (see
Use PLUME -- Use DE PLUME (hot). PAIN DE GIBIER GIBIER DE game lod rerN DE loaf
(hot). Winged game Winged like Chicken Chicken partridge, like pheasant, partridge,
of woodcock, woodcock, pheasant, the meat meat of the garnish and sauces suitable
suitable and sauces (see CHICKEN). The garnish CHICKEN). The toaf (hot) (see
loaf(hot) sauce Demi-glace sauce and Demi-glace game loaf loaf are: are: mushrooms
and for hot hot garne for game stock stock concentrated garne (see SAUCE) on
buttered, buttered, concentrated based on SAUCE) based (see (q.v.); chipolata
chipolata afumet of a consistency of to the the consistency down to boiled down
boiled fumet (q.v.); (escalopes of of Rossini (escalopes Demi'glace; Rossini
butterd Demi-glace; with buttered sausages sausages with a truffie on a truffie
sauce based based on and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce liver and and trufHes)
truffies) and liver on trume truffie fumet. based on D emi- g lace based and Demi-
glace trufles and fumet; fumet fume t ; truffles LA PLITME À A LA DE PLUME DE
GIBIER GIBIER DE PAIN DE game lod loaf in in jelly. Winged game Winged ielly. PAlN
(see FOIE FOIE GRAS) GRAS) gras loaf inielly (see loaf injel/y Foie gras hke Foie
cELfE -- Prepare Prepare like GELÉE game (net weight) (18 oz.) of game g. (18
weight) of oz.) (net liver by by 500 500 g. replacing the the liver replacing
indicated. meat. as as indicated. meat, eggs with eggs vegetables mixed mixed with
braised vegetables made of of braised loaves are are made loaves plain poured into
a buttered buttered plain into a an omelette, omelette, poured as for for an beaten
beaten as a bain-marie. poached in in a bain'marie. and poacbed mould and mould
(see Endive loaf loaf (see given for fot Endive recipe given following the the
recipe By following By made: loaves can can he be made: vegetable loaves other
vegetable various other ENDIVE) ENDIVE) various etc. turnip, etc. cauliflower,
turnip, carrot, cauliftower, aubergine, carrot, artichoke, aubergine, artichoke,
asaa is served moulds,is servedas large moulds, made in in large loaf, made of
loaf, This type type of This poured over it. over it. sauce poured with aacream
cream sauce small entrée, entrie, with small gamish for for meat and meatand
asaagamish are used usedas loaves are vegetable loaves Small vegetable Small
garnishing fish or dishes, or for garnishing fish dishes, also be be used usedfor
poultry. They They can can also poultry. given helow. below' recipes are are given
eggs.Sorne Some recipes poachedor or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs. poached DECHOU-
FLEUR cHou-FLEUR - PAINSDE PETITS PAINS loaves. PETITS Small cauliOower cauliflower
loaves. Small yolks, pour pour it it with egg egg yolks, pur6e bound boundwith
cauliflower purée Prepare aa cauliflower Prepare in the inaa oven in cook in and
cook the oyen dariole moulds moulds and into small buttered dariole small buttered
into bain-marie. bain-marie. Using DE LAITUES PAINS DE LAITUES- - Using loaves.
PETITS PETITs PAINS lettuce loaves. SmaII Small lettuœ prepare as as egg, prepare
with egg, boundwith and bound chopped and lettuces, braised, braised, chopped
lettuces, (seebelow). loaves(see below). spinach loaves for for Sma// Smallspinach
pur6es such vegetable purées such orvegetable vegetable loaves loavesor Various
other othef vegetable Various chicory, Brusselssprouts, endive,Brussels
sprouts,chicory, mushrooms,endive, as t, mushrooms, as carro carrot, preparedin
manner. intbe samemanner. thesame canhe beprepared etc. can tomato, tomato,etc.
D'fpnlnos PETITS PAINS P.ltNsD'ÉPINARDS laromaine. romaine. PETITS loaves ài la
spinachloaves SmaJJ Smallspinach pur6e,tossed in tossedin leafspinach spinach
purée, Prepare aaleaf A LA r.l ROMAINE nouewn- - Prepare À

PAINS DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS FOIE GRAS LOAVES. pAINs - In the old days mousses and
thefoie grcs gras loaves loaves (today (today replaced by by foie foie gras mousses
thefoie (q.v.) to bind them. mousselines) were prepared prepared using using panada
panada (g.v.) them . mousselines) This is no no longer longer used used nowadays;
nowadays; a more delicate coma more This is position is is obtained and the the
binding binding of position mixture is of the the mixture obtained and old recipe
recipe for tbis assured by using meat jelly. jelly. Here is is an an old this
entrée: type of entrie:

Jellied gras loaf(Carême) Jellied foie foie gras loaf (Carime)

(CarGme's recipe). DE FOTE FoIE JelUed PAIN DE recipe). PAIN grs Joar loaf
(Carême's foie gras Jellied foie fattened made from from fattened This entrée ent6e
can can be be made rl - This goose liver. capon liver. goose liver uses capon liver
although Car€me uses although Carême you have 'Trim (l lb.) have liver, which which
you fat capon 'Trim 450 g. (1 lb.) fat capon liver, 450 g. previously ter.
previously soaked in wa water. soaked in 'Weigh t cup) panada (6 oz., panada and g.
(6 and the the same same 'Weigh out 175 g. o2.,3 out 175 "up) amount fat. grated
bacon fat. or grated bacon of butter butter or amount of 'Begin it. Take Take to
it. panada, then add butter butter to pound the then add 'Begin to the panada, to
pound tbis proceed to pound the the to pound and proceed mortar and out of of the
the mortar mixture out this mixture liver panada and and paste. Add perfectly
smooth Add the the panada liver into smooth paste. into aa perfectly yolks, pound
good 15 egg yolks, 5egg 15 minutes, minutes, adding adding 5 pound together for aa
good together for 4 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) 2 tablespoons tablespoons(3 4
teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons spiced spiced salt, fines (by fines meant Car0me meant
herbes,Carême in butter butter(by herbes tossed tossed in fines herbes, fines
herbes aa mixture and shallots and mushrooms, truffies, truffies, shallots of
chopped chopped musbrooms, mixture of (see aromatic Veloutd sauce sauce(see and 1I
tablespoon tablespoon Velouté aromatic herbs) herbs) and SAUCE). SAUCE). 'When
rubitit through through aa blended, rub 'When the has been been weil wellblended,
whole has thewhole
GRAS A LA GELÉE cRAs À cnrfs -

s59 559
LOBSTER LOBSTER

il,

i::

';

::'

':

Lobster ((Robert Carrier) Lobster Ro be r t C at ie r\

Noisette Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound
butters), butters), mixed mixed with with diced diced anchovy anchovy fillets,
fillets, and and bound bound with with eggs eggs beaten beaten as as for Pour the
the mixture mixture into into buitered buttered dariole dariole for an an omelette.
omelette. Pour moulds moulds and and cook cook in in a a bain bain marie. marie.

in in shape shape to to the the crayfish. crayfish. There There are are two two
main main types; types; one one is is
found found in in European European waters, waters, the the other other in in
American American waters. waters.

LOBSTER. LOBSTER. HoMARD HOMARD - Large Large seawater seawater crustacean

crustacean similar similar

of the the lobster is is smooth. smooth. Its Its claws The shell of claws are are
armed armed of unequal size; size; one one is is large large and with pincers
pincers of with and oval, oval, the the other other more slender slender and and
elongated. elongated. more of a lobs ter found in in European European waters
waters is is of The lobster a rich, rich, dark dark blue colour tinged tinged with
with purple. purple. Its Its joints are are orange blue orange and and its feelers,
which are as long as its body, red. its feelers, which are as long as its body,
red. The lobster lobster reaches reaches full full size size very very slowly.
slowly. At At 5 5 years years old, old, it it The is about about 12 cm. inches)
long, long, having having shed shed its its tail tail some sorne is cm. (5 inches)
560 560
LOBSTER LOBSTER
20 times times in in the the course course of of this this period. period. Later
Later it it grows grows very very 20 attaining 30 30 to to 50 50 cm. cm. (12 (12 to
to 20 20 inches) inches) in in much larger, larger, attaining much I lb.). and
weighing weighing up up to to 5 5 kg. kg. (l (II lb.). length and length The female
female lobster lobster carries carries its its eggs eggs in in the the tail. tai!.
The The French French The have a a special special name, name, paquette, paquette,
for for the the female female lobster lobster with with have and connoisseurs
connoisseurs assert assert that that it it is is when when the the fully formed
formed eggs, eggs, and fully eggs are are formed formed and and not not laid laid
that that the the flesh flesh of of the the female female eggs at its its most most
delicate delicate and and savoury. savoury. lobster is is at lobster The American
American lobster lobster lives lives only only on on the the Eastern Eastern coast
coast of of The North America, America, running running from from Labrador Labrador
to to North North Carolina, Carolina, North

although although the the most most important important sources sources are are off
off the tbe coast coast of of Nova Nova Scotia Scotia and and the the state state
of of Maine. Maine. According According to to United United States States fisheries
fisheries authorities, authorities, the the S-year-old 5-year-old lobster lobster
measures measures about about 27 27 cm. cm. (10| (1 ~ inches) inches) and and has
has moulted moulted 25 25 times. times. It It is is a a lobster of the dark dark
mottled mottled green green when when caught. ca ught. The The flesh fiesh of the
lobs ter is is more more highly highly flavoured flavoured than than that that of
of the the spiny spiny lobster lobster or or
crayfish. crayfish. There There are are many many ways ways of of preparing
preparing lobsterlobster. It It can can be be eaten eaten hot hot or or cold cold
like like the the spiny spiny lobster lobster (q.v.)' (g.v.). This Lobster Lobster
ià I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. uotrllno HOMARD A À r'lrvrfntcltt{s L'AMÉRICAINE -
This

lobsteràil'américaine I'am€ri,caine(Larousse) How to toeut cutup upaalobster How

(Larousse) headin intwo twolengthwise; lengthwise; 5.Cutthe Cut thehead intwo;
two;5. tail14. Cut thecarcase carcasein tiporthe ofthetail; 3. Cutoff offthe offthe
leftc1aws; claws;3. rightclaws; claws;2. Cutoff Cutoff offthe 1.l.Cut the right 2.
Cut the left CUl the tip 4. Cutthe cutup uP Lobstercompletely comPletelY eut
6.Lobster 6.

561 561
LOBSTER
dish is of Provençal is of Provengal origin. origin. Raw Raw lobster lobster
sautéed saut6ed in in oil oiland and dish the use use of of tomatoes are
characteristic tomatoes are characteristic features featuresof ofMediterMediterthe
ranean cookery. cookery. ranean Towards the middle of the middle of the nineteenth
century, the nineteenth century, this dish thisdish Towards provenCale (Gouffé).
(Gotff€).The was called called lobs lobster d la la provençale The name name was
ter à lobster à d l'américaine l'amiricaine was was applied applied at at that that
time time to to aa dish dish lobster poached lobster. made from from poached
lobster. made A certain certain confusion confusion had had arisen arisen over over
these names. these two two names. A provengale, simpler Lobster à prepare and d la
la provençale, simpler to and less to prepare lesssubtle in subtle in Lobster
flavour, usurped usurped both name and position of both the the name and the the
position oflobster lobster à d flavour, I'amiricaine. There There is is still doubt
as still sorne some doubt as to to who who invented invented l'américaine. name
lobster lobster à d l'américaine, I'amiricaine, the the name dish itself itself
having the dish having been been the known for for a a very very long long time.
time. known it sorne anonymous cook, master chef cook, as some anonymous as the the
master chef Escoffier Escoffier Was it would have have us who, having known us
believe, who, known the dish in in Nice, Nice, the dish would exported it it to to
America, whence whence it was was subsequently· subsequently rereexported irnported
into into France? France? Was it sorne Was it perhaps restaurateur, perhaps some
restaurateur, imported Fraisse of of Noel Noel and and Peter's Restaurant, who gave
this Peter's Restaurant, name who gave this name Fraisse to the dish in in honour
honour of patron? of sorne the dish some transatlantic transatlantic patron? to
Curnonsky settled settled this this controversy controversy once once and and for
for all all by Curnonsky investigating the matter. He the matter. He discovered
discovered that that aa certain Pierre Fraisse, born born in in Sète, years in
Site, chef chef for for a number of a number of years in Pierre (mainly in the
United United States States (mainly in Chicago), Chicago), set up a a restaurant
restaurant set up the called Peter's Peter's in in the the boulevard boulevard des
des Italiens. Italiens. It It was was the the called of the the Second Second
Empire. Empire. One One evening in in an an attempt attempt to to period of serve a
party of of tourists tourists who who had had little little time to to spare, he he
followed the Provençal Provengal recipe, recipe, starting starting with with the
living living The delighted lobster. The delighted clients clients asked for the
asked for name of the name of the lobster. the wonderful dish. dish. Still Still
under under the influence of the influence of his his American American wonderful
'Homard à sojourn, Fraisse replied: i l'américaine'. I' am6ricaine'. : 'Homard This
lobster lobster would be more American, perhaps, if American, perhaps, be even even
more if whisky were used instead of of Cognac. used instead to the the dissection
of live lobster lobster we of a a live To those who object to we dedicate the
following lines: lines: dedicate An American American was uncertain An the best way
to cook cook lobster Of the Why not just leave it for now homard à d l'Américaine
I'Amiricaine .... Said the homard .. Provengal cooks cooks prepare lobsters
lobsters and and spiny lobsters in Provençal spiny lobsters in the Provengal ina
coulis(q.v.) (q.v.) oftomatoes Provençal fashion, in a coulis of tomatoes flavoured
with onion, onion, garlic and and parsley. parsley. Take a hen lobster weighing a
hen weighing 1 Take I kg. kg. (generous 2 2 lb.). lb.). Cut Cut joints. Split the
tail into slices, following the marks of the joints. the marks Split the carcase in
two, lengthwise. Crack the the shel! shell of the the c1aws. claws. Remove all al!
the the gritty substance substance near near the the head. head. Keep Keep the the
coral and the liver, which will be be used used to to thicken the the sauce. Season
the portions of the lobster with salt and and pepper. Heat 4 to 6 tablespoons
tablespoons olive oil in a pan. Put in the pieces of lobster, lobster, brown
quickly on both sides and ove from and rem remove (3 tablespoons) finely chopped
the pan. pan. Put 2 tablespoons (3 in the pan. Cook Cook slowly until until very
very tender, stirring onion in frequently frequently with a a wooden wooden spoon.
When almost spoon. When almost cooked, add 2 chopped add chopped shallots.
shallots. Stir, Stir, mixing rnixing thoroughly. thoroughly. Put Put 2 2 coarsely
chopped chopped tomatoes tomatoes (peeled, (peeled, squeezed coarsely squeezed and
and with seeds removed) removed) into the pan. Add a touch touch of garlic, garlic,
and and 1 I tablespoon chopped parsley and tarragon. tarragon. tablespoon of of
herbs and Lay the the pieces pieces oflobster Lay on this foundation ofherbs
vegetables. It dl. dl. $ pint, 3 ~ cup) cup) dry white vegetables. Moisten Moisten
with with l| tablespoons, scant + cup) fish/unel fishfomet (q.v.) and wine, I 1 dl.
dl. (6 tablespoons, wine, (1 cup) cup) brandy. brandy. Season Season with cayenne
pepper. pepper. 4 tablespoons tablespoons ($ 4 the boil, cover coyer the the pan,
and and cook on on Bring the the mixture mixture to the Bring the stove s!ove or or
in in the the oven oyen for 20 minutes. the Drain the the lobster lobster pieces
pieces and pick out the flesh flesh from from the the Drain and the the tail. tai!.
claws and claws the shells. shells. Keep warm wann while the the Serve in in the
the halves halves of the Serve is being made. made. sauce is sauce The sauce.
sauce. Boil down down the the pan pan juices by half. half. Add the the coral coral
The and liver liver of of the the lobster lobster pounded and mixed mixed with with
butter. butter. and

Whiskover overaahigh panfrom highflame. flame.Remove Removethe fromthe thepan Whisk

thefire fireand, and, still whisking whisking to toensure ensureaasmooth smoothand
andcreamy creamysauce, still sauce,add add (4oz., g.(4 100g. cup)butter oz.,tIcup)
buttercut cutinto intofragments. fragments. 100 Seasonwith withaalittle
littlecayenne cayenne pepperand anda a squeezeof Season of lemon juice. Pour
Pourthis sauce, thissa over the lobster, uce, piping hot,over and sprinkle with
withchopped chopped parsley. Lobsteraspic. aspic.ASPIC esrrcDE DEHOMARD rnoMARD - -
Line Lineaamould mouldwith with jelly and lay lay in initit thick thick slices
slicesof oflobster lobster interlaced interlaced with and withstrips strips of
jelly.Fill truffie, decorated decoratedwith with jelly. Fillthe truffie, themould
mouldto tothe thetop with topwith jelly.Leave clearwhite white fish fishjelly.
Leave on onice iceto clear toset. set. Itcan caneither either be beturned turned
out outstraight It straight onto dishor ontothe thedish orserved served jelly.
onaaslice ofbuttered buttered bread. slice of bread.Decorate Decoratewith on with
jelly. Boited Iobster. lobster.HOMARD HoMARDBOUILLI BourLLr - -proceed for Boiled
Proceedas forLobster Inbsteràd as (see below). la nage(see below). la This dish
isserved dish is hotwith withaasauce served hot sauce usuallyserved served with
with boiled fish fish or or shellfish. boiled shellfish. When When it it is iseaten
eaten cold,ititshould should be be served with with aasauce served for cold
saucesuitable suitable for cold fish fishor orshellfish. shellfish. Lobster à
Lobster il la labordelaise. bordelaise.HOMARD HoMARD À ALA r,lBORDELAISE nonosre$e
- - Use Use lobsters called small small lobsters called demoiselles demoisellesof
of Cherbourg, Cherboarg, or large orlarge lobsters split in lobsters in half half
lengthwise. lengthwise. Large Large lobsterscan prepared à can be beprepared dla
labordelaise bordelaise by bysplitting splitting them into sections asfor them into
for lobster sections as lobster àdl'américaine. l'amiricaine. Proceed Proceed as as
(seeCRA for YFISH). for Crayfish Crayfish à labordelaise dla bordelaise (see
CRAYFISH). T-SAV ARIN - Cook Lobster Lobster Brillat-Savarin. Brillat$avarin.
HOMARD HoMARDBRILLA BRTLLAT-sAvA,Rnr - Cook a a large large lobster
(seeCOURTlobster in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII XII (see COURTBOUILLON).
BOUILLON). Drain. Drain. Cut Cut off off the andshell the tail tail and shellil.
it. Simmer Simmer slices slices of of the flesh in (sen SAUCE), the flesh in aa
thick thick American American sauce sauce(see SAUCE), which tel y, adding prepared
separa which has has been been prepared separately, adding to to it it sorne some
of of the court-bouillon in the court-bouillon n which which the the lobster
lobster was was cooked, cooked, boiled boiled jelly. down down almost almost to a
jelly. to a Shell Shell the claws and the claws and the the carcase. carcase. Chop
the flesh into a coarse (q.v.). Add coarse salpicon salpicon (g.v.). Add equal
equal quantitiesof of salpicon salpicon of of cooked cooked truffies trufres and
and mushrooms. mushrooms. Simmer all these Simmer ail these ingredients ingredients
in (see SAUCE) rn a a Curry Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE) made made with with the
rest of the rest of the the lobster lobster court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Cook -
the Cook courgettes, cut into thick cut into thick slices slicesthe same same
number number as as there are lobster slices there are slices -- slowly slowly in
in oil. oil. Place Place the the slices slices of lobster and of lobster and
courgette courgette altemately alternately in in aa ring inside inside a a baked
baked flan flan crust. crust. Put Put the salpicon in in the the salpicon the
middle middle and coyer cover with with American American sauce. sauce. On On top
top of of each each slice slice of of lobster lobster place place a a thick thick
strip strip of of truffie. trufle. Lobster Lobcter cardinal. cardinal. HOMARD
HoMARD CARDINAL cARDTNAL -- Boil Boil the the lobster lobster in in Court-bouillon
(see COURT-BOUILLON) Court-bouillon XII XII (see COURT-BOUILLON) untiJ it is is
until it cooked. cooked. Drain, Drain, cool cool a a little, little, and and split
it lengthwise. Remove split it Remove the from the the flesh flesh from the taU
tail and and cut cut it it into into slices slices of equal thickness. thickness.
Cut Cut off off the the c1aws, claws, take out the take out the flesh, flesh, and
and dice dice it it to make a to make a salpicon (g.v.). Add an (q.v.).Add quantity
of an egual equal quantity of diced diced truffles. trufles. Bind Bind the the
salpicon with (see SAUCE). with a a Lobster sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Fill the place
halves of the halves of the lobster shell the lobster shell with with the salpicon
Place the salpicon. on on top top the the slices slices of of lobster lobster
interspersed with with strips strips of of truffles. Pour on on sorne truffies.
Pour some lobster lobster sauce. grated sauc€. Sprinkle with with grated cheese
cheese and and melted melted butter. butter. Place Place the the halves halves on
on a a baking baking sheet and brown brown them sheet and them quickly in the oven.
Garnish the oyen. Garnish with parsley. with curly curly parsley. en chemise.
HOMARD EN CHEMISE Plunge Lobster en chenise. HoMARD EN cHEMrsE - Plunge a a lobster
lobster into into boiling boiling water water to to kill kill il. it. Season Season
with with salt and salt and pepper. pepper. Baste Baste with with oil oil or or
melted melted butter. butter. Wrap Wrap it it in in a a double double thickness
thickness of of oiled greaseproof paper paper and and tie with string. tie with
string. on a sheet, and bake in a hot oyen for Place Place a baking sheet, and bake
in a hot oven for 40 40 to to 50 50 minutes for for a a medium-sized lobster.
lobster. Untie, Untie, and and serve it serve it in the paper in in which which it
it has has been been cooked. cooked. Suitable dressings dressings are are half-
melted half-melted Maître Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER,
Compound (see BUTTER, Compound butters), hrtters), or or any any sauce sauce
usually usually served with grilled fish: served with fish: Américaine, Amhricaine,
Béarnaise, Bdarnaise, Bercy, Bercy, Bordelaise, Indienne, Ravigo Ravigote Borde
laise, H ongroise, Indienne, (see SAUCE). te (see SAUCE). in cream. Lobster in
Loboter cream. HOMARD HoMARD À A LA ra CRÈME cninrs -- Cut Cut up up the the
Lobster à américaine. Sauté lobster as for Lobster as for dr I'amiricaine. portions
in Saut6 the the portions in butter. Drain off the butter. Pour 3 tablespoons
(scant butter. Drain off the butter. Pour 3 tablespoons (scant iI
562 562
LOBSTER LOBSTER
cup) cup) brandy brandy into into the the pan pan and and mix mix with with the the
pan pan juices. juices. Add Add

5 dl. dl. (scant (seant pint, pint, 2t 2i cups) cups) cream. cream. Season Season
wittr with salt salt and and a a 5
touch touch of of cayenne cayenne pepper. pepper. Cover Coyer the the pan pan and
and simmer' simmer. Serve Serve the the lobster lobs ter in in a a pie pie dish
dish (in (in or or out out of of its its shell). shell). Boil Boil down down the
the cooking cooking sauc€ sauce to to half half its its volume, volume, add add 50
50 gg. (2 (2 oz., oz., cup) butter butter and and a a few few drops drops of of
lemon lemon juice, juice, and and strain strain * cup) through muslin. muslin. Pour
Pour this this sauce sauce over over the the lobster. lobster. through Lobster
croquettes. croquettes. cRoQUETTBs CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Made Made from
from Lobster lobster lobster salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) in in the the same
same way way as as plain plain croquettes. croquettes. If If desired desired a
salpicon salpicon of of mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffies may may be be
added. added. (See (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors'd'euvre, hors-
d'œuvre, Croquettes.) quettes.) Lobster à la franco-am6ricaine. franco-américaine.
HoMARD HOMARD A À Le LA rnlucoFRANCOIobster euinrcuxn AMÉRICAINE - This This method
method of of cooking cooking lobster lobs ter is is a a variant variant of of the
recipe recipe for for Lobster Lobster d à I'amiricaine. l'américaine. the Plunge 2
2 lobsters lobsters in in boiling boiling water. water. Cut Cut off off the claws
and crack crack them. them. Split the the lobsters lobsters in in half half
lengthwise. Drain Drain the the and scrape them them out, keeping the the liver
liver and and the the carcases and liquid. Simmer 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3
tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped onion onion and and Simmer I 1 tablespoon
tablespoon chopped shallot in 4 tablespoons (} (t cup) oil. oil. season with salt
and freshly ground ground Add the lobsters, and season pepper. pepper. Tomato sauce
thtn Tomato Pour over 3 dl. (+ (t pint, l| li cups) rather thin sauce glasses of
(see (see SAUCE). Boil for 5 minutes. Add 2 small glasses of 18 oven for the pan
pan and and bake in in the the oyen for 16 16 to to 18 Cover the brandy. Coyer
minutes. a serving dish and keep on a thero on Drain the lobsters. Put them it back
in warm. in the pan. Add the warm. Strain the sauce and put it (3 tablespoons)
tablespoons) meat essence, liquid and liver, 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3
tablespoons) ftaming flaming glass Madeira, 2 tablespoons (3 Madeira, 2 t glass
chopped sweet peppers. Boil down I or 2 sm and 1 small brandy and ail chopped and
pour Over over the lobsters. add butter, butter, and this this sauce, sauce, add a
medium-sized Plunge a cnn rJ loboter. HOMARD HoMARD GRILLÉ Grilled Grilled lobster.
- Plunge it split it lobster into into boiling salt water for 3 minutes. Drain,
split it. pour melted and pour melted butter over it. season, and lengthwise,
season, in in two two lengthwise, a moderate heat. Grill on a Grill on removed,
easily removed, flesh can be easily can be so that the the ftesh Crack claws so
Crack the the claws fresh parsley. garnished with fresh and a napkin napkin
garnished and serve serve on on a ot Ravigote butter or d'h6tel butter Maitre
d'hôtel Serve melted butter, Maître Serve with melted (see BUTTER, butters).
Compound butters). butter BUTTER, Compound butter (see DwERNoIS ITENRI DUVERNOlS
HoMARD HENRI Lobster Duvermis. HOMARD Lobster Henri Henri Duvernois. joint it d
l'amériI'amdri for Lobster Lobster à it as as for or joint lengthwise or Split a
lobster lengthwise Split a it in paprlka. Sauté in butter. and paprika. Saut6 it
caine. with salt salt and caine. Season Season with tablespoons 4 tablespoons pan.
Add butter 4 the butter Add to to the Take it out Take it out of of the the pan.
cup) julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) of 4 tablespoons (* cup) leeks and and 4 tablespoons (t
of leeks (t cup) julienne $ cup) in butter. butter. mushrooms mushrooms tossed
tossed in (* l* dl. dl. (! pan. Moisten with It in the Moisten with the pan.
lobster back back in Put Put the the lobster (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) 2
tablespoons tablespoons (3 and 2 pint, pint, t cup) sherry sherry and 3 cup) lid
and and with aa lid cover with fresh cream, cream, coyer add fresh brandy. Boil
down, down, add brandy. Boil simmer. simmer. pilaf of rice a pilaf with a of rice
Garnish with a long long dish. dish. Garnish Put lobster on on a Put the the
lobster 2 add 2 sauce,add down the the sauce, Boil down arranged along side. Boil
arranged along each each side. pour over lobster. over the the lobster. (3
tablespoons) and pour butter and tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter tablespoons
This dish dish HoMARD -- This DB HOMARD cRoMEsQUIs DE Lobster kromeskies.
CROMESQUIS Lobster kromeskies. course. It It a light light main main course. as a
or as is as a a hot hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre or is served served as (q.v.)
either plain or with aa or with either plain salpicon (q.v.) is from lobster
lobster salpicon is made made from (see SAUCE), diced which diced SAUCE), to to
which sauce (see Velouté Bdchanrel sauce Velouti or or Béchamel further For further
added. For have been been added. truffles and mushrooms mushrooms have truffies and
hors-d'euvre. Hot hors-d'œuvre. details HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot details see see HORS-
D'ŒUVRE, A AU COURT-BOUILLON HoMARD AU coLJRT-Boutrr"oN À Lobster la marinière.
mariniCre. HOMARD Inbctcr à la dish. for this this dish. are used usedfor lobsters
are small lobsters LA Very small lr,lRrNSRE - - Very r,l MARINIÈRE (see CRA
CRAYFISH). lamarinière tnariniire (see Proceed YFISH). asfor for Crayfish Crayfish
àdla Proceed as la Lobsters àdla calledLobsters often called wayare are often
Lobsters in this this way Lobsterscooked cooked in nage. nage. as for for Proceedas
HoMARD MORNAY MoRNAY - Proceed Lobster Mornay. HOMARD LobsterMornay. (se SAUCE)
SAUCE) sauce (see Mornay sauce Lobster cardinal, substituting substituting Mornay
Lobster cardinal, for lobster sauce. for lobster sauce.

HoMARD HOMARD MoRNAY MORNAY - Proceed Proceed as as for for Brill Brill in in
scallop scallop sftel/s shells (see (see

Lobster Lobster Mornay Mornay in in scallop scaIlop shells shells (hoQ. (hot).
coQUILLES COQUILLES

DE DE

As As with with all ail other other scallop seallop
filled filled with with poultry, poultry, fish fish
ingredients, the the shells shells should should be
decorated with with a a border border of of Duchess
(see
shells, shells, whether whether
or or other other ingredients,
be potato mixture decorated
Duchess potato mixture (see

(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Brown Brown in in a a very very hot hot oven' oyen.

BRILL) BRILL) or or any any other other fish fish in in scallop scallop shells,
shells, using using a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) and and thick thick slices
slices of of lobster lobster coated coated with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce

POTATOES) POT ATOES) piped piped through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with
with a a fluted ftuted nozzle, nozzle, before before they they are are filled.
filled. Hot Hot lobster lobster scallop scallop shells shells can ean also also be
be made made with with other other sauces sauces such such as as Cardinal,
Cardinal, Nantua, Nantua, Normande, Normande, White White wine wine sauce sauce
(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cold Cold lobster lobster mousse. mousse. Moussn MOUSSE
DE DE HoMARD HOMARD FRoIDE FROIDE - Add Add to to a a mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.)
(q.v.) some sorne dry dry white white wine wine and and 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons
and in this (scant (seant t i cup) cup) flaming ftaming brandy. brandy. Cook Cook
the the lobster lobster in this and leave leave to to cool. cool. Drain Drain the
the lobster lobster and and take take it it out out of of the the shell. shell.
Pound the the flesh flesh finely finely in in a a mortar, mortar, slowly slowly
adding adding for for every every 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) flesh ftesh (net
(net weight) weight) 2 2 dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) cold cold
Veloutd Velouté smtce sauce (sw (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on fish fish
stock. stock. Rub Rub this this mixture mixture through through a a sieve. sieve.
Put Put the the pur6e purée thus thus obtained obtained in in a a pan pan on ice.
ice. Stir Stir with with a a spatula spatula for for a a few few minutes. minutes.
Add Add 4 4 to to (see ASPIC) Fish aspic 5 5 tablespoons cold cold Fish aspic ielly
jelly (see ASPIC) and and about about cream. (5 pint, sligbtly whipped scant cup) 2
2 dl. dl. (t pint, seant cup) fresh, fresh, slightly whipped cream. Season. Season.
lobster fish jelly. Line a Line a plain plain mould mould with with fish jelly.
Fill Fill with with the the lobs ter garnish. or sorne some other other garnish.
and decorate mousse mousse and decorate with with truffies truffles or on ice to
set. set. Put it it on ice to of a slice dish or or on on a slice of a serving
serving dish onto a out onto mousse out Turn the the mousse Turn jelly and a and a
chopped jelly with chopped Surround with bread. Surround thickly buttered bread.
thickly cro0tons. of jelly border border of jelly croûtons. covered and covered a
bowl in a bowl and be served served in also be may also mousse may The mousse The
may jelly. A and truffles trufles may lobster salpicon of of lobs A salpicon fish
aspic aspic jelly. with fish with ter and mixture. added to to the the mixture. be
added be (mousses served in individuaI individual served in morsselines (mousses
lobster mousselines Cold lobster Cold made These are are made FRoIDEs DB HOMARD
HoMARD FROIDES portiom). MOUSSELINES MoussELIl.IEs DE - These portions). either
mousse. Serve Serve either lobster mousse. Cold lobster as Cold mixturc as from the
the same same mixture from jelly and and decorated decorated with jelly lined with
moulds lined cylindrical moulds in small small cylindrical in porcelain cups. cups.
little silver or porcelain silver or or in in !ittle with truffles, trufres, or
with euvle or as a a or as hors-d œuvre as hors-d' can be be served served as
mousselines can Lobster mousselines Lobster garnish with large with large as a a
garnish may be be used used as or may main course, course, or light main light
fish. cold fish. cold

lanage nagc [obsteràdla Lobster

as Proceed as (colQ. HOMARD ALA rl NAGE r*lcre- - Proceed HoMARD À lanage

nage(cold). LobsteràI la Lobster (seebelow). (ftal) (see to loboters to Leave the
the lobsters below). Leave nage(hot) h nage Lobsteràdla for Lobster for withaa
init. Serve with it.Serve andserve serve them thern in court-bouillon and coolin
inthe thecourt-bouillon cool (s* SAUCE, Cold sauce (see SAUCE Cold Tartare sauce
sauce or ot Tartare Mavonnaise sauce Mayonnaise

563 563
LOBSTER
sauces), or or any any other othersauce sauce usually usually served served with
with cold cold fish fish 'or br sauces), shellfish. shellfish. Lobster ili la la
nage (hot). HOMARD uorralno A A LA m NAGE NAGE - - Boil Boil some some Lobster
small lobsters, lobsters, of the type type known as asdemoiselles demoisellesof
ofCherbourg Cherbourg smaH or Dieppe, Dieppe, in in white white wine wine Court-
bouillon (see COURTCourt-bouillon XII XII (sec COURTor BOUILLON). BOUILLON). Serve
hot hot in in the court-bouillon, with the court-bouillon, with sauce sauce
sUltable suitable for for Serve poached fish. fish. poached Lobster Newburg.
Newburg. HOMARD HoMARD À A LA r.,c. NEWBURG Nswsuxc -- Ingredients. Ingredients.
Lobs.er 2 lobsters lobsters weighing (l lb.) weighing about about 400 400 to g. (l
to 500 500 g. lb.) each, each, 175 175 g. 2 (6 oz., cup) butter, 3 dl. (} pint, l*
tups) sherry, 3 dl. a+ (6 OZ., ,t àbutter, 3 dl. (t pÎnt, cups) sherry, 3 dl. pint,
lf cups) concentrated (+ pint, concentrated fish fish stock, 3 pint, It 3 dl. dl.
(t lf cups) pint, I! (ser-, SAUCE), 4 dl. (i pint, scant 2 cups) Velouti sauce
sauce (see Velouté SAUCE), 4 dl. pint, scant 2 cups) paprika. cream, salt, salt,
paprika. cream, Method. Wash Wash the lobsters and the lobsters and joint them them
as as for for Lobsler Lobster à d Me/hod. I'amdricaine. Remove Remove the liver and
keep for the liver for use later. Season use later. Season l'américaine. the
lobsters lobsters with with salt paprika. Brown the salt and and paprika. lobsters
in the lobsters in the (3 oz., g. (3 75 g. oz., 6 6 tablespoons) tablespoons)
butter. butter. Cover pan and Cover the and cook the pan cook 75 for 12 minutes. 12
minutes. for Drain off off the the butter butter and and add add the the sherrv.
Boil down over Drain a high high flame. flame. Add Add the fish stock the fish
stock and and ihe velouté veloutd sauce. sauce. a Keeping the pan covered, the pan
covered, simmer gently for simmer gently for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Keeping Take
out out the the pieces of oflobster and arrange arrange them them in in a a deep
deep Take lobster and (The tail dish. (The tail pieces may may be be shelled.)
shelled.) dish. Boil down down the sauce, sauce, add add the the cream, cream, and
and test test the the sauce. sauce. Boil When il it coats coats the the back back
ofa of a spoon, spoon, add add the previously liver, previously the Iiver, When
rubbed through through a a fine fine sieve sieve and and blended blended with with
the the rest rest of of the the rubbed butter. Mil< Mix the quickly by the sauce
sauce quîckly by whisk:.ing. whisking. Pour Pour over over the the butter. pieces
of oflobster. pieces lobs ter. This dish is sometimes dish is sometimes called
called lobs/er lobster sauté sauti a a la la crème. uime. This parisienne. HOMARD
Lobster à i la la parisienne. HoMARD À A LA LA PARISIENNE rARTSTENNE Cut - Cut
Lobster into slices of of equal equal thickness the tail tail of of a a medium-
sized medium-sized lOlO slices thickness the lobster, cooked cooked in a court-
bouillon court-bouillon and and cooled. cooled. Coat Coat with with lobster, in a
gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise and decorate strips gelallne-stlre.l1lgtlherled
mayonnaise and decorate with with strips of truffie dipped dipped in mayonnaise
jelly. in the the half-set half-set mayonnaise jelly. jelly, fin with Line with
vegetable salad salad mixed Line a a mould mould with with jelly, fill mixed with
diced truffies with the the rest rest of of the the lobster, lobster, diced, diced,
and diced truffies in in mayonnaise. Turn out a dish, mayonnaise. Tum out onto onto
a dish, arrange arrange the the prepared prepared lobster lobster slices slices
round round it it in in a a border, border, and and garnish garnish with with
chopped chopped jelly. jelly. jelly may also The The slices slices coated coated
with with jelly may also be he served served as as a a border border to to Parisian
Parisian salad salad (see (see SALAD) SALAD) which which should should be piled
pîled up up into into a a small small dome dome in in the the middle. middle. Cold
Cold lobster lobster i li la la parisienne parisienne or or i à la la nrcse. russe.
HoMAno HOMARD rnon FROID A À pARrsrENM, A LA RussE LA LA À LA RUSSE - Proceed
Proceed according according to to the the recipes for Sptny lobster parisienne (see
lobster d li la la parisÎenne or or d àh la russe russe (see

Line the thescallop scallop shells withshredded shells with shredded lettuce
lettuceseasoned seasoned with with Une pepper, oil salt, pepper, oil and and
vinegar. On foundation put a On this this foundation salt, lobster salpicon,
salpicon, seasoned seasoned with French French dressing dressing and and sprinkled
lobster with chopped chopped chervil chervil and parsley. and parsley. with I or
Put 1 2 thick or 2 thick slices lobster in slices of of lobster in each each shell.
shell. Cover Cover with with Put mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate the the top top with
with fillets fillets of anchovy, capers mayonnaise. and olives. olives. Garnish
Garnish with with letluce lettuce heans hearts and and quartered hardand boiled
eggs. eggs. boiled Lobster in in scallop parisienne. COQUILLES scallop shells
shells i la la parisienne. coeurLlEs DE DE Lobster panlsENNE - Proceed HoMARD À A
LA Ll PARISIENNE as for for lAJbsler Lobster in in scol/op scallop HOMARD - Proceed
as (cold), using shells (co/d), using vegetable salad salad dressed dressed with
with mayonnaise shells or French French dressing, dressing, instead of of lettucc.
lettuce. Decorate Decorate with strips strips or of truftle, capers, lettuce
trufle, capers, lettuce hearts hearts and quartered hard~boîled and quartered hard-
boiled of

eggs.

oc

butter. butter. Line Line a a domed domed mould mould with with Rrce Rice pilaf
pilaf (sw (see PILAF), PILAF), and and fill fiJi with with the the lobster.
lobster. Tum Turn out out the the mould mould on on a a serving serving dish. dish.
Surround Surround with with Lobster Lobs/eT sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or
or any any other other sauce sauce suitable suitable for for shellfish. shellfish.
Lobster Lobster risotto. risotto. Rrsorro RISOTTO DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Proceed
Proceed as as for for Inbster Lobs/erpilaf. pilaf Fill FiH a a ring ring mould mou
Id with with risotto. risotto. Turn Turn it it out, out, and and heap heap pieces
pieces of of lobster lobster in in the the middle. middle. Lobster Lobster salad.
salado slrlpE SALADE DE DE HoMARo HOMARD - See See SALAD, SALAD, Lobster Lobs/er
salad. sa lad. Cold Cold lobster lobster with with various various sauces. sauces..
HoMARD HDMARD FRorD FROID AvEc AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES DrvERsEs nrVERSES - Boil Boil the
the lobster lobster in in a a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). (q .v,). Leave
Leave to to cool. cool. Split Split it it in in two IwO lengthwise. lengthwise.
Crack Crack the the shell shell of of the the claws claws so 50 that Ihal the the
flesh ftesh can cau be taken taken out out easily. easily. Garnish Gamish with with
fresh fresh parsley or or lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Serve Serve with with
Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce or any other cold cold sauce, sauce, such such as as
Gribiche, Gribiche, Rdmoulade, Rémoulade. Tartare (see SAUCE, .... " 'J"'~-'--.
Cold Cold sauces\. sauces). (cold). Iobster in scallop shells Lobster in scallop
shells (cold). coqunrrs COQUILLES FRorDEs FROIDES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - This This
dish dish is is usually usually made made from from scraps. scraps.

SPINY LOBSTER). Lobster Lobster pilaf. pilaf. rn.,u PILAF DE DE HoMARD HOMARD -
Coarsely Coarsely dice dice the the flesh ftesh of of boiled boiled lobsters
lobsters or or cut cut it it into into pieces. pieces. Brown Brown lightly lightly
in in

oc

Lobster in in scallop shells shells vert-pr6. coeurI,lrs DE HoMARD pnE Line with
shredded watercress shells with watercress leaves leaves - Line the shells in a a
French French dressing. dressing. Place Place a a salpicon salpicon and and sliœs
lobster on slices of of lobster on in green mayonnaise, top. Coat Coat with with
green mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate with with slices slices of of top. gherkin and
and chopped yolks of chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. Surround
Surround gherkin with a a border border of of French French beans beans which which
have have been boiled boiled in in with salt water, water, drained, drained, diced
diced and and seasoned seasoned with French French dressing. dressing. salt Iobster
soufflé. soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sourrr6 DE DE HOMARD HoMARD -- Pound Pound in in a a
mortar Lobster 300 g. (II oz.) (net weight). oz.) cooked lobster (net cooked
lobster weight). Rub Rub Ihrough through a a 300 fine sieve. Add Add 2 dl. dl. (1
scant cup) (see cup) Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see fine $ pint, seant
previously cooked with SAUCE) previously with a a liule little of the lobster
stock. stock. SAUCE) Season with pepper and with salt, salt, pepper grated nutmeg.
and grated nutmeg. Blend Blend in in 4 Season yolks. Add egg yolks. Add 4 4 stiffly
stiffiy heaten beaten egg whîtes. whites. egg Put the mixture in the mixture in a a
buttered soufflé dish and soufr6 dish and cook cook in in a a Put slow oven for for
25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Serve at once. slow Little lobster lobster
soufflés soufr6s can can be served as as an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre or Little
light maÎn main course. These are made from the same mixture mixture as ligot
lobster souffi6, but are cooked cooked În in small small bulteroo buttered cups
cups or lobster soufflé, but arc cases. cases. Lobster BRocnE Plunge a alarge
Lobster on on the spit. Horrllnn HOMARD A À re LA BROCHE - Plunge large live into
boiling a few seconds to kill it live lobster lobster into boiling salt water for a
few seconds kil! il instantly. Put the lobster Season with salt, pepper, thyme,
lobster on a spit. Season and or oil, and powdered powdered bay bay leaf. Baste
Baste with wÎth melted butter or with with a a dripping dripping pan pan or or
other other suitable dish underneath. undemeath. put Put into into the the pan pan
a a few few tablespoons of of dry dry white wine and and 2 2 tablespoons
"'.UJ\."'pU'JU.> (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Cook Cook in in
front from of a very hot hot fire, basting frequently. A A lobster Jobster weighing
1t kg. kg. (about (about 3 3 lb.) lb.) needs to to be cooked for 40 to to 45
minutes. Remove Remove the the lobster lobster from from the the spit and arrange
on a long dish. dish. Serve with with the the juice collected in in the the
dripping pan. Lobster Lobster on on the the spit can can be he served with with
spicy sauces such as as Biarnaise, Béarnaise, Curuy, Curry, Ravigote Ravigole (see
(see SAUCE). ...,,,,'--"'.......... ,. Lobster Lobster thermidor. thermido:r.
HoMARD HOMARD rrrERMrEoR THERMIDOR - Split Split a a lobster lobster in in two,
[WO, lengthwise. Iengthwise. Crack Crack the the shell sheH of of the the claws
c1aws and and pick out the the meat. meaL Season Season both both halves halves of
of the the lobster lobster with with salt. pour Pour oil oil over over them them
and and roast roast in in the the oven oven for for 15 15 to to 20 20 minutes.
minules. Dice white wine, Dice the the flesh. flesh. Make Make a a stock stock of
ofwhite wine, frshfumet tîshfume/ and meat meat juices, juices, flavoured flavoured
with wilh chervil, chervil, tarragon tarragon and and chopped chopped shallots.
shallots. Boil Boil it it down down to ta a a concentrated concentrated
consistency. Add Add to tO this thîs a a little liHle very very thick thick
Bichamel Bechamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and some some English English
mustard. mustard. Boil Boil the the sauce sauce for for a a few few seconds,
seconds, then then whisk whisk in in fresh fresh butter butter (one-third (one-
third of of the the volume volume of of the the sauce). sauce). Line Line the the
two two halves ha Ives of ofthe the carcase carcase with with a a little little of
ofthis this sauce. sauce. Fill Fil! them them with with the the flesh ftesh of
ofthe the lobster, la bster, coverwith cover wi th the the remainder remainder of
ofthe the sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with wilh grated grated Parmesan Parmesan
and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown quickly quickly in in the
the oven. oven. (This (This is is the the recipe recipe for for lobster lobster
thermidor thermidor given to us by M. M. Tony Tony Girod, Girod, for for many years
master master chef of the famous Parisian Parisian restaurant, restaurant, the the
Cafi de de Paris.) Paris.) This prepared in a This dish dish is is often oft enin a
different different way. way. The The tail tail of of the the lobster lobsteris is
split splitin in half and grilled, grilled, then then the the flesh flesh is is cut
cut into into thick thick slices slices and and put put back back in in the the
shells, sheHs, which which have have been been

vnnr PRÉ VERT

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564 564
LORRAINE LORRAINE coatd coated with
seasoned seasoned with wÎth
mustard. mustard. They They are are
sauce sauce and and browned browned
APPELLATIONS.) APPELLATIONS.) oven.
with a a little little cream cream sau@ sauce
covered covered with with the the same same
in in the the oven. FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY
(See (See FRENCH

LORRAII\ELORRAINE - District District of ofhigh high gastronomic gastronomic

repute' repute. Here Here the the connoisseur connoisseur of of good good cooking
eooking will will savour savour many many succulent succulent

LOCUST LOCUST or or CAROB CAROB TREE. TREE. cARouBE CAROUBE - Leguminous Leguminous
plant plant which which grows grows in in the the East East and and in in the the
Mediterranean. Mediterranean. The The long long pod con tains numerous numerous
seeds seeds and and a a rather rather insipid insipid sweet sweet pod contains
pulp. pulp.

LOIN. LOIN. clnnf CARRÉ - The The front front part part of of a a hindquarter
hindquarter of of beef, beef,
mutton, mutton, lamb, lamb, pork park or or veal veal with with the the flank flank
removed. removed.

dishes, dishes, and and will will find find white, white, red red and and rose rosé
wines, wines, all ail delightful' delightful, though though some sorne are are more
more fragrant fragrant than than others. others. Culinrry Culinllry specialities
specialfties - The The dishes dishes of of Lorraine Lorraine are, are, for for the
the most most part, part, substantial. substantial. Heading Heading the the list
list of of the the culinary culinary specialities specialities of of what wha t was
was once once the the ancient ancient province province of of Lotharingie
Lotharingie is is the the potie, potée, the the national national soup soup of of
this this region. region.

LONGCHAMP -A A broth broth fundamental fundamental to to Parisian Parisian cooking'

eooking. LONGCHAMP shredded shredded sorrel sorrel and and vermicelli vermieelli in
in consomm6 consommé and and adding a a puree purée of of fresh fresh green green
peas. peas. (See (See SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.)

with with eggs, eggs, cream cream and and lean lean bacon. bacon. It lt is is also
also calledfdouse. caUed féouse.

in in the the gastronomic gastronomie history history of of Lorraine. Lorraine.

This This is is a a tart tart made made

Then Then there there is is the the quiche, quiche, a a dish dish which which goes
goes back back centuries centuries

It It is is made made by by cooking eooking

LONGE LONGE - This This French French term term should refer refer only to to the
the top top
part part of of the the loin of of veal veal (see (sec VEAL). VEAL).

It is, is, however, inaccurately inaceurately extended extended to ta refer to to

the the same same
part part of of any slaughtered animal. animal.

Another characteristic local Anothercharacteristic local dish dish is is the the

tourte tourie d à Ia la Lorraine, Lorraine, made made with with two two kinds kinds
of of meat, rneat, veal veal and and pork. park. These These are are first first
steeped steeped with with herbs herbs in in a a marinade marinade and and then then
baked baked together together pastry. on on a a bed bed ofsavoury of savoury egg
egg custard eustard in in a a pie pie crust erust offine of fine pastry. Other
Other specialities specialities include include rarnequins; ramequins; kneppes;
kneppes; oatfs oeufs d à l'escargot l'escargot (eggs (eggs with with snails);
snails); choucroute choucroute (sauerkraut) (sauerkraut) d à la la

LONZO LONZO (Corsican (Corsiclln cookery) cookery) - Pork Pork product product
eaten raw as as an euvre, like raw hors-d hors-d'œuvre. raw salt salt ham, harn,
made from from boned fillet fi Il et of of
pork. pork. This This is is steeped in brine with herbs and then dried.

LOQUAT LOQUAT or or JAPANESE JAPANESE MEDLAR. uirrr NÈFLE DU DU rAPoN JAPON small
Fruit of the Japanese biwa.It biwa. It looks something like like a smatl

in in

plum. p[um. Its seeds are enclosed in a large stone. stone. Loquats Loquats ripen
Provence from from April April onward. onward. They They are are quite quite sweet,
slightly slightly tart, and refreshing. ptso-oE-vrAu Common name LORDS LORDS AI\D
AND LADIES. PIED-OE-VEAU - Comman contain edible roots of of which wild arum, arum,
the for wi/d the tuberous raots for which contain cuckoo-pint and wake-robin. known
as cuckoo-pinl fecula. It is also known wake-robin.

messine; messine; tourte tourte aux aux oignons oignons (onion (on ion tart tart
similar sirnilar to 10 the the Strasbourg Strasbourg onion onion tart); tart);
pdtis; pâtés: quenelles quenelles de de foie foie de de veau veau (calves' (calves'
liver liver forcemeat forcemeat balls); balls); civet civet de de pork pork frais
(civet (civet of of fresh fresh pork); park); and and a a whole who le series
series of of local local pork park products, products, the the finest famous black
black pudding pudding of of Nancy. Nancy. The The finest being being the the famous
potted and pdtis potted meats meats and pâtés de de foie foie gras gras of of
Lorraine Lorraine rival rival in in delicacy delicacy those those of of
neighbouring neighbouring Alsace. Alsace. A Lazarque, devoted devoted a a book book
of of A local local writer, writer, Auricoste A urieoste de de Lazarque, some sorne
300 300 pages pages to ta the Ihe gastronomy gastronomy of of his his homeland.
homeland. He He d the matelote speaks speaks with with eloquence eloquence of of
the matelole de de Metz; Metz; crayfish cray.fish à la la de Riom; mode de mode
mode de de Boulay; Boulay; frogs frogs' legs legs d à Ia la mode Riom,' parttidge
parlridge
goose. He daube of and the the daube with cabbage ci la la I'orraine; Lorraine; and
ofgoose. He gives gives wilh cabbage d soupe au an boudin boudin the soupe ou lard
recipes for the the soupe soupe au lard de de Inrraine; Lorraine; the recipes for
au in aspic; (black sucking pig soup); sucking (black pudding pudding soup); pig in
aspic; ham ham au foin; foin ..

Chocoletc.'

\,S?,:'
trt O

GEBUANY GERMANY
-"~',...
h
~

....
•

Sti
-. -.,
\
t

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fiotclote (fish stew). Sucking i pi8 an aspac. Tcal d lo mcssrnc.l Sauerkraut wrGh
whrte wine.iSaddle of hare d lo
,?t

,-"".,.· . . . r' ... ~. ..

uemmes

fr

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i l":.tl*.[,iTl..r
Bar

s?ilinel
:k. Mecaroons. Nancy
-^.. l-----^.^f

icken dpigrommc. Ierrine of

gdtcr,u,
-. 1

Huid_*
Pin€au d€
porr.

burche.yJ wi4e ,it::,?!I.:

Myr1
ri '(i;i;h "til:?I;
j-.?---..

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tf o4'!eT-ff;f :,:i!,#i3llf ill

lced giigirbre_ad. Cakcs.

itflt:"".

Lorraine ofLorraine mapof Gastronomic map Gastronomie

565 565
LOTUS LOTUS
goose pâté pdti of the goose of Rupt-de-Mad; Rupt-de-Mad; soupe soupe dorée; dorie;
meillal meillat or or the (applepies); miot; rouyals rouyals (apple pies); chaudée
(a kind chaudee (a kind of apple tart); of apple tart); miol; (a kind chemitrds (a
kind of of waffie); waffie); and and mally many other other delicious delicious
chemitrés dishes. dishes. Among the the delicate pastries made delicate pastries
made in in Lorraine Lorraine are are the the Among macaroons and and bergamotes
bergamotes of of Nancy; Nancy; the the madeleines madeleines of of macaroons
Commercy; the (similar to the kugelhupf kugelhupf (similar to that that of of
Alsace); Alsace); Commercy; Nancy cake; cake; the the none nonettes of Remiremont;
Remirem ont; aniseed aniseed bread; bread;and and Nancy Iles of plum larl. jams;
the mirabelle plum tart. There There <Ire, are, too, too, the the mynle myrtle
jams; the mirabelle famous sugar wgar almonds almonds of of Verdun; Verdun; and and
many many other other sweet sweet famous dishes. dishes. The cheeses cheeses
include include Gérardmer G6rardmer cheese, cheese, admirable partner admirable
panner The local wines, wines, Lorraine to the the local Lorraine cheese cheese
made made from from scalded scalded curds, curds, to and Fromgey, Fromgey, a a kind
kind of of white white cheese, cheese, which which is is spread spread on on a a
and slicd of of bread bread and and sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped
onions onions and and slicè shallots. shallots. Wines - Among Among the wines of of
this the wines this region region are are the the white, white, Wines red and and
rosé ros6 wines wines of of Côtes C6tes de de Toul Toul in in Meurthe-et-Moselle,
Meurthe-et-Moselle, red and the the white white and and red red wines wines of of
Moselle. Moselle. Both Both varieties varieties are are and (vins délimités
V.D.Q.S. category the V.D.Q.S. category (vins qualit6 d6limites de de qualité in
the suffrieure). supérieure).

u*nr*

BU (

f*f
Pork end vGzl ondoutlle. Saveloy rnd -'rr sru3at€ with truf,le:, Co'd (.oguettcs. .
l'linccd calvcr' livrr loaf. Veal en rcssic; ;' Quenelles of poultty, pike. ou
gtot,a; Poultry: boifed, ri lo <rtme. Chrckcn dcrn;deuil. i-l Chlcken Crilestine :
Cardoons: with cheesa. ou grotin, d ld pou,e(c, l'4onr d'Or <hcer. Motcfoim, 8ugnc,
Aocie blos:om frittcrr. Frrngipene. Wdnut liqueur. Sirop da copiltolre

Moulae with rcd wine. Tripe.

in

LOTUS -- In In ancient ancient Egypt Egypt the the tuberous tuberous stump stump of
of white white LOTUS lotus was grilled or was eaten, eaten, grilJed or boiled.
boiled. The pink lotus, The pink lotus, on on the the lotus other hand, hand, being
being regarded regarded as as a plant, was a sacred sacred plant, was forbidden
forbidden other food. food.
LOUBIIYE French local local na name for the grey mullet. the grey mullet. - French
LOU BINE me for LOTIISE-BONNE pear. Variety of of pear. - Variety LOUISE-BONl'<'E -

) ,*,p*'.* b A ..-i%;r'Sx.V
'f7:--'{ },
Vineyardl

L-

/4".f'l
K2

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Rigones { )rrsc. A

Carp, Queaeffcs d fo

\.,"',",'p rrarthe'i:--, tB4Y_:

S"ti~~ge.

forezrcnnc. Game pd

Ham ri 10 1Ioix

LOVAGE. LIVÈCHE rrvicrn -- Herb Herb of of the angelica family, the angelica
family, much much LOVAGE. used in Roman Roman cookery. young leaves, cookery. The
The young leaves, ribs ribs and and leaf leaf used in stalks are are caten eaten
like celery. The The seeds seeds are are used constalks like celery. use.d in in
confectionery. fectionery . porvRErrE - Common name for the LOVE-IN-A-MIST. LOVE-
IN-A-MIST. PorVRETTE Common name l'or the cultivated nigella nigella (q.v.).
cultivated (g.v.).
LLJMPY. Stuffings or are sa said - Stuffings LUMPY. cRENU GRENU or doughs doughs
are id to to be be lumpy lumpy when are not smooth. when they they are not
thoroughly thoroughly mixed mixed and and smooth. LLJNEL LUNEL WINE WINE - Muscatel
Muscatel wine wine made made in in the the H6rault Hérault coillmune, round This is
commune, round about about Lunel. Lunel. This is a a sweet sweet dessert dessert
wine. wine. * A pulse iUpnV LUPIN - A pulse (leguminous (Ieguminous plant) plant)
used used as as fodder. fodder. Its Its bitter be eaten eaten after after soaking
soaking in in water. water. bitter seeds seeds can can only only be

Gastronomic map of Lyonnais Lyonnais Gastrononuc

LUTE. LUTE. rur UIT - A A paste paste which which hardens hardens as as it it
dries. dries. It lt is is used used to 10 seal seal containers containers
hermetically. hermetically. Almond Almond lute lute is is made made by by mixing
mixing powdered powdered almonds, almonds, from from which which the the oil oil
has has been been extracted, extracted, with with starch starch paste. pas te. In
In cooking cooking, a a flour-and-water fiour-and-water
paste paste is is used, used, which which is is also also called called repire
repère or or repaire. repaire.

agricultural, agrieultural, has has a a few few fertile fertile plains, plains,
notably nota bly those those of of Forez Forez and and Roannais, Roannais, and and
market market gardening gardening is is carried carried out out on on a a large
scale in the area. There an is an abundance abundance of of good good large seale
in the area. There is quality potatoes as well weil as as excellent excellent
onions, on ions, such such as as those those of of quality potatoes as Roanne,
Roanne, which which are are used used in in the the preparation preparation of of a
a large large number number of of special special dishes, dishes, for for example
example tripe tripe d à la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. Many Many other other
vegetables vegetables are are grown. grown. Fruit Fruit production production is is
also also an an important important industry, industry, and and some some fruit"
fruit, such such as as the the apricots apricots of of Ampuis Ampuis have have a a
well-deserved well-deserved reputation. reputation. So, So, too, 100, have have the
the sweet sweet chestnuts chestnuts which which come come from from the the many
man y trees flourish that on the mountain trees that fiourish on the mountain
sides. sides. The The neighbouring neighbouring regions regions converge converge
on on Lyons, Lyons, a a town town of of high high gastronomic gastronomie repute,
repute, with with many many excellent excellent foodstuffs, foodstuffs, such as the
the succulent succulent poultry poultry of of Bresse. Bresse. such as Excellent
Excellent meat meat is is to to be be found found in in the the Lyonnais Lyonnais
district. district. Pigs, bred in large provide many Pigs, bred in large numbers,
numbers, provide Lyons Lyons with with the the many well-known well-known pork pork
products products made made there. there. The The game game of of this this regron
region is is also also of offine fine quality quality
566 566

LYONNAIS LYONNAIS - The The Lyonnais Lyonnais distric! district, more more
industrial industrial than than

Excellent fish the Loire, the Sa0ne and and the Excellent fish is is caught in in
the the Saône Rh6ne, as well as in the local ponds. Rhône, as weil as local ponds.
Culinary The well-known Lyons smtsage; Culinary specialities - The Lyons sausage:
pike an bleu; Ia lyonnaise; pike au bleu: quenel/es quenelles (fish (fish balls)
balls) of of pike pike d à la gratin of crayfish crayfish tails; tails; matelots of
of Laire Loire and Sa6ne Saône rtsh; fish; gratin of omelette d la la lyonnaise;
ome/elle à lyonnaise; black black pudding with apples; apples: tipe tripe d à la
lyonnaise; poached saveloy saveloy with pistachio pistachio nuts mils and truffies;
truffles: lyonnaise; poached roulade of pig's pig's head; head; Charliat Charlieu
chitterlings; chillerlings; ham ham with wi/h roulade of walnuts; walnuts: Marlhes
Marlhes sausage; sausage; chicken chicken en en demi-deuill: demi-deuill; the
celebrated poached chicken de Ia la mbre mère Filloux; Filloux; chicken chicken d à
la celebrated poached crime; crème; chicken chicken en en vessie vessie (chicken
(chicken sausage); chicken chicken cilestine céles/lne; ; veal (veal sausage); sa
usage) ; cardoons cardoons au au gratin. gratin. veal m en vessle vessie (veal
Among are bugnes Among the the special special sweets sweets of of this this region
region are bugnes Iyonnaises lyonnaises (a (a special special type type offritter);
of fritter); acacia acacia blossomfritters; b/ossom frillers; frangipane; the the
substantial substantial matefoim matefaim (a type type of pancake); pancake);
frangipane; and and pumpkin pumpkin cake. cake. Wines Wines - Worthy Worthy
accompaniment accompaniment of the the dishes dishes made made in in the the
Lyonnais Lyonnais district, district, are are the the wines wines drunk dnmk by by
the the gourmets gourmets of of this this foodJoving food-Ioving region. region.
Beaujolais Beaujo/ais wines. wines. See See BURGUNDY. BURGUNDY. C6tes Côtes dt du
Forez. Forez. Under Under this this V.D.Q.S. V.D.Q.S. appellation appellation
Lyonnais Lyonnais produces produces a a light light and and fruity fruit y Gamay
Gamay red red wine wine not not unlike unlike Beaujolais. Beaujolais.

LYOPHILISATION LYOPHlUSATION - Lyophilisation Lyophilisation or or freeze-drying

freeze-drying is is a a method of drying drying prefrozen prefrozen products.
products. The The process process is is carried carried method of out in several
several stages stages and and results results in in a a perfectly perfectly dry,
dry, stable, stable, out in end end product, product, unaltered unaltered in in
quality. quality. Foods Foods of of animal animal and and vegetable vegetable
origin origin treated treated thus thus (delicate (delicate fruit, fruit, fruit
fruit juices, juices, vegetables, vegetables, coffee, coffee, tea, tea, milk, milk,
fish fish fillets, fillets, certain certain meats) meats) have have the aroma,
vitamins, vitamins, fatty fatty acids acids and and the same same textureo texture,
taste, taste, arom4 proteins. proteins. Other Other advantages advantages are are
easy easy rehydration rehydration of of the the treated treated foods; instant
consumption; consumption; long-term long-term conservation; conservation; ease ease
foods; instant of of transport, transport, storage storage and and distribution
distribution (weight (weight and and volume volume are are reduced, reduced, due
due to 10 the the elimination elimination of ofwater). water).
Italy MACARONI from ltaly food, originally from A farinaceous food, MACAROhU -A
(sorne (some authorities it origin), where it as its place of origin), authorities
give Naples as has been been eaten for centuries. like aU all other pasta,
centuries. Macaroni, Iike has is very nourishing. nourishing. 2 litres Cooking
macaroni. CUISSON Put 2 DB MACARONI MAcARoNI culssoN DE - Put (3! of in the ratio
of adding salt in (3| pints, 4! a pan, :idding 4| pints) water in a 11teaspoons per
litre (seant (scant quart, generous quart). Bring it it l| teaspoons (5 oz.) into
g. (5 in 150 g. oz.) macaroni, broken into boil and and put in to the the boil
pieces. pieces. Boil very fast thickthe thick16 to 20 20 minutes according to the
for 16 fast for ness products, macaroni pasta products, all pasta Like ail
macaroni. Like of the the macaroni. ness of must from the Remove the the saucepan
saucepan from must not not be be overcooked. Remove stove. Coyer in the water for
for a a to sweU the water swell in Cover it and leave the pasta to few few minutes.
Drain put it in the the saucepan. saucepan. and put it back back in macaroni and
Drain the the macaroni Evaporate ail a few few for a leaving it it on on the the
stove stove for by Jeaving all moisture by seconds. get rid absorbed rid of any any
water absorbed to get This is is necessary necessary to seconds. This by cooking.
during cooking. by the the macaroni during Proceed the recipe recipe used. used.
Proceed according according to to the Macaroni as indicated indicated macaroni as
Boil the Macaroni à A l'anglaise I'anglaise the macaroni - Boil above. platter.
Serve with butter. butter. a serving Serve with serving platter. above. Heap on on
a Macaroni tablespoons Add several several tablespoons la béchamel bechamd Macaroni
à i la - Add Béchamel (see SAUCE) macaroni. cooked macaroni. SAUCE) to to the the
cooked Bdchatnel sauce sauce (see Season. (scant add 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons
(seant Mix. Just before serving, Just before serving, add Season. Mix. tt cup) cup)
butter.

g. BEURRE -- Add Add 75 75 g. AU BEURRE MAcARoNI AU Macaroni widl with butter.

MACARONI Macaroni pieces, to to (3 oz., cut into into small small pieces, fresh
butter, butter, eut o2.,6 tablespoons) fresh (3 6 tablespoons) butter is is well
well the butter Toss so so that that the Season. Toss cooked macaroni. Season. the
the cooked in. mixed in. Another FRoMAGE -- Another AU FROMAGE MAcARoNI AU with
cbeese. cheese. MACARONI Macaroni with (see below). below). name à l'italienne (see
for Macaroni Macaronidl'italienne name for Boil the m CRÈME the A LA cntilrle --
Boil MAcARoM À Macaroni with with cream. cream. MACARONI Macaroni put back Drain
and and put back cooked. Drain is three-parts it is macaroni macaroni until until
it three-parts cooked. all moisture. moisture. to evaporate evaporate ail on the
stove to the stove in in the saucepan on the saucepan (* pint, pint" seant fresh
cream. cream. boiled fresh 2 dl. scant cup) cup) boiled Moisten with 2 dl. (1
Moisten with pinch of with aa pinch of 12 minutes. minutes. Season Season with l0
to to 12 Simmer for 10 Simmer slowly slowly for pan from from the grated nutmeg.
Remove the the nutmeg. Remove the pan and a a little little grated salt salt and
cut into into g.Q* butter eut 5 tablespoons) oz., 5 tablespoons) butter mix in in
60 60 g. and mix stove (2t oz., stove and pieces. small small pieces. I'italienne
asfor Macaroni à dl'italienne for Macaroni la créole cr6ole -- Proceed Proceed as
Macaroni Macaroni à i la peppers (q.v.) of sweet peppers of sweet (see below).
coarse salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (see a coarse Make a below). Make (zucchini,
marrows (zucchini, vegetable marrows (green and very small small vegetable (green
and red), red), very a touch and a touch in oil, oil, and tossed in courgettes)
tomatoes tossed in oil, oil, tomatoes courgettes) tossed tossed in with the the
salpicon with Mix this this salpicon of garlic. Bind Bind with with cheese. cheese.
Mix of garlic. macaroni. macaroni. These EN CROQUETTFS cRoQt ETrrs - - These
MAcARoNI EN Macaroni Macaroni croquettes. croquettes. MACARONI (see CROQUETTES)
using CROQUETTES) using are way (see in the usual way are made made in tne usual
and blended dicd and blended drained, dieed macaroni, water, drained, in salt salt
water, macaroni, boiled boiled in (se SAUCE). SAUCE). with sauce (see Bichatnel
sauce with Allemande Allemande or or Béchamel as for for Macaroni Macaroni àd
Macaroni fermiire -- Proceed Proceed as la fermière Macaroni à i la with (see
below). l'italienne dish alternating alternating with in aa deep deep dish below).
Serve Serve in I'italienne (see celery, onion onion layers carrots, turnips,
turnips, celery, of carrots, vegetable fondue layers of of aa vegetable fondue of
very in butter butteruntil until very and cookedslowly slowly in and cooked and
leek, finely sliced sliced and leek, finely tender. tender.

Macaroni gratin augratin Macaroni au

Macaroni pieces(Nicolas) (N ico las) Macaroni pieces

Macaroni I'italienne gratin-- Proceed asfor Macaroniàdl'italienne forMacaroni

Proceed as Macaroni au augratin (see and (see below). withbutter butterand dish
lined linedwith anovenware ovenware dish inan below). Serve Serve in grated mixed
with mixed ofthe macaroni with gratedcheese. themacaroni topof cheese. Sprinkle
Sprinkle the thetop
s67
MACAROON MACAROON
grated cheese. breadcrumbs and and grated cheese. Pour Pour melted melted butter
butter over over and and breadcrumbs brown in in the the oyen. oven. brown Macaroni
à (2 OZ., I'italienne -- Add g. (2 I l'italienne Add 50 50 g. oz., f cup) grated
Macaroni (a mixture cheese (a mixture of of Gruyère Gruydre and and Parmesan)
Parmesan) and 50 g. g. Q OZ., oz., cheese cup) butter butter cut cut into pieces,
to into small small pieces, to the the cooked cooked macaroni. macaroni. i* cup)
Season with with salt grated nutmeg. salt and and aa !ittle little grated nutmeg.
Toss Toss to mix Season to mix thoroughly. Heap on on aa serving serving plate. One
One kind kind of of cheese cheese thoroughly. need be only need be used, though
though aa mixture of of Parmesan Parmesan and and only gives better Gruydre gives
better results. results. Gruyère Macaroni à la Lucullus i la Lucullus -- Proceed
Proceed as as for for Macaroni Macaroni à Macaroni d I'italienne. Serve Serve in in
a a dish dish with with alternate alternate layen of of a a coarse coarse
l'italienne. gras and salpicon of of foie gras and truffies blended in a a very
contruffies blended consalpicon (se,e SAUCE). centrated Madeira sauce sauce (see
SAUCE). Decorate Decorate the top top of centrated of macaroni with the macaroni
with strips strips of of truffie. truffie. the Macaroni à la milanaise i la
milanaise -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Macaroni Macaroni à Macaroni d
I'italienne. Add Add 2 2 to (see to 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons Demi-glace Demi-
glace sauce sauce (see l'italienne. flavoured with with tomato, tomato, and and 2
SAUCE) flavoured 2 to to 3 3 tablespoons of SAUCE) of (coarsely shredded garnish
(coarsely Milanaise garnish shredded ham, ham, pickled lOngue, Milanaise tongue,
mushrooms and and truffies). truffies). mushrooms Mix weil well and and heap on
platter. on a a serving serving platter. Mix Macaroni à la mirepoix -- Make (q.v.)
of il la Make a a mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) Macaroni of vegetables, rather rather
coarsely coarsely diced, diced, cooked cooked slowly vegetables, slowly in in
butter butter until very tender and blended tender and blended with with cheese.
cheese. It until It should should be be a a quarter of the weight of the weight of
the the macaroni. Mix the quarter the mirepoix mirepoix macaroni. Mix with the the
cooked cooked macaroni. macaroni. Put Put in in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish with
dish lined lined with butter butter and and grated cheese. cheese. Sprinkle with
Sprinkle the the top top of of the the with cheese. Pour Pour butter butter over
macaroni with over and and brown in the brown in the oven. oyen. Macaroni à i la la
Nantua Macaroni d l'italienne l'italienne served served in in a a - Macaroni à pie
crust of lining pastry baked baked blind, with alterna te layers pie alternate
layers (see CRA Nantua (see of Crayfish tail ragofrt d la Nantua YFISH). CRAYFISH).
la napolitaine 1 A la Macaroni à Ifor Macaroni à as for d - Proceed as (scant *
cup) I'italienne. Add Add 3 3 tablespoons (scant l'italienne. cup) Tomato Tomato
sauce (see SAUCE) to macaroni. Mix. to the the macaroni. Mix. Serve in (see in a a
deep deep dish. dish. Sprinkle with grated cheese. MjRl{,~ll"nni à Macaroni i la
napoHtaine n tr some thick macaroni - Break sorne into short sticks, and boil in
salt water until the the macaroni is three-parts cooked. Drain and mix with butter.
Put the macaroni in in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish lined lined with with butter
and grated cheese, with with alternate layers layers of cooked Braised beef (se
BEEF) BEEF) rubbed through a sieve. Sprinkle the layers with grated grated cheese.
Warm Warm over over a low heat and serve. Macoronl à la la pi6montaise piémontaise
- Proceed Proceed as for Macaroni à Macaroni i as for d l'italienne. l'italienne.
After After adding the the butter butter and and cheese, cheese, add add very
finely sliced sliced white trufres. truffies. Mix and serve serve in a a deep dish.
The white truffies of the macaroni. macaroni. truffles are cooked by the heat of
Macaroni with seafood. searood. MAcARoNT MACARONI Arrx AUX FRUrrs FRUITS DE DE MER
Proceed Proceed as for Macaroni Macaroni d à I'italienne. l'italienne. Serve in a
deep dish with alternate alternate layers of of Seafood Seafood ragofrt ragoût (see
RAGOOQ. RAGOûT). Macaroni i à la sicilienne - Proceed Proceed as as for for
Macaroni d à I'italienne. l'italienne. Add, Add, at the the same time as the butter
and cheese, cheese, a a few purée of chicken chicken livers livers mixed mixed with
few tablespoons tablespoons of puree Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE).
Serve Serve in a deep deep dish. dish. Macaroni in stock. MAcARoM MACARONI AU AU
JUs JUS - Boil the macaroni macaroni Macaroni in until is three-parts cooked.
cooked. Drain Drain and and put in a saucepan saucepan until it is with with brown
brown veal or or beef beef stock. stock. Cover Coyer and and leave leave to simmer
sim mer slowly slowly for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Heap on and pour
pour over over it it 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons on a a serving serving dish dish
and (3 (3 tablespoons) tat,]esPol:ms concentrated concentrated brown brown stock.
stock. Macaroni with tomato MACARONI A À Ll LA roMlTE TOMA TE tomato sauce. sauce.
MAcARoM Proceed Proceed as as fot for Macaroni Macaroni in in stock, stock,
substituting substituting tomato tomato sauce sauce for for the the stock. stock.
Macaroni wi0r with trufres. truffles. MAcARoNT MACARONI Aux AUX rRr,JFFDs TRUFFES -
Mix Mix Macaroni -butter in butter butter, cheese cheese and and coarsely coarsely
shredded shredded trufres truffies tossed tossed in butter, with with the the
macaroni. macaroni. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with strips strips of of
trufles. truffies.

MACAROON. MACAROON. M,c,clnoNMACARON - Small SmalJ round round dry dry pastry
pastry made made of of almond paste, pas te, sugar sugar and and egg egg white.
white. almond
568 568

The The originof of this this pastryis isunknown. unknown. Sorne Some authorities
authorities suggest suggest that this little biscuit was thislitde was invented
inventedin inItaly, ltaly, and andfrom from there therecame came to to France,
France, where where it it was wasappreciated appreciated by by conconnoisseurs,
noisseurs, and and was was subsequently subsequentlymass produced. massproduced.
Delicately Delicately flavoured flavoured macaroons macaroons are are made made in
parts in various variousparts of of France. France. Those Those of of Nancy are are
considered considered the the best. best.They They have have been been made made
for for nearly two two centuries centuries by by successive successive generations
generationsof of the the same same family,and andare areknown known as asthe
macathe macaroons roons of 'MacaroonSisters'. of the the'Macaroon Sisters'. In In
the the eighteenth century, century, it it became became the custom in the custom
many inmany convents convents for the the nuns nuns to make macaroons. macaroons.
The to make The nuns nunsof of the the Convent Convent of of the the Visitation
Visitation of of Our Our Lady Lady at at Melun Melunmade made these these and and
other other sweetmeats. sweetmeats. When, When, in in 1748, 1748, the the Court
Court was was at at Fontainebleau, Fontainebleau, the the Dauphin vent of Dauphin
and and his his wife wife went went to visit the the Con to visit Convent of the
the Visitation Visitation of of Our Lady at at Melun, Melun, at Our Lady at the the
Port Port de de Bière Bidre the the procession procession was was addressed
addressed by the Mayor, who the Mayor, who offered offered the the th a ts,
visitors visitors a a ceremonial ceremonial bottle bottle of wine wi with a basket
of biscui basket of biscuits, macaroons, macaroons, sugar and other sugar sticks
sticks and other sweetmeats. sweetmeats. Plain Plain macaroollS. macaroons.
MACARONS MAcARoNs ORDINAIRES oRDTNATRES -- Pound Pound in in aa mortar 11- cups) (7
OZ., mortar 200 200 g. (7 oz.,lj (4 of cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds (4
of which which should should be be bitter almonds) almonds) moistened moistened
with with 1 I egg egg white. white. As As soon ~ as the soon as almonds are the
almonds are weil pounded, add (5 OZ., well pounded, add 150 150 g. g. (5 oz.,l cup)
cup) su-gar. Mix Mix and and add add I egg egg white. white. Still mixing, add 150
g. g. Still mixing, add 150 (5 OZ., (5 o2.,3 cup) cup) sugar sugar and and the rest
rest of of the the egg egg white. white. The The mixture mixture must must be be
rather rather soft soft but but not If necessary not runny. runny. Ifnecessary at
at this add anothed this stage stage add another I egg egg white white and and mix
mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Pipe Pipe the the mixture onto onto a a sheet paper.
The sheet of of rice rice paper. The macaroons macaroons should should be be 3 3 to
4 cm. to 4 cm. (ll inches) inches) in in diameter, diameter, and and far far enough
apart prevent them apart to to prevent them from running into into one one another
another during baking. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with icing (350'F., Gas and bake
icing sugar sugar and bake at at 180°C. 180'C. (350°F., Gas Mark ch Mark 4) 4) for
for 20 20 minutes minutes or or until until the macaroons are the macaroons are a a
ri rich golden col our. colour. Crisp Crisp macaroollS. macaroons. MACARONS
MAcARoNs CROQUANTS cRoeuANTs -- Pound Pound in in a a mortar 250 (9 OZ., g. (9 250
g. oz.,lf cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds with with a a little little
egg g. (9 OZ., egg white. Add 250 250 g. oz., generous cup) cup) sugar sugar
flavoured flavoured to taste. Mix weil. (9 OZ., well. Add Add to the g. (9 the
mixture mixture 250 250 g. generous oz., I!erlen)us cup) sugar and enough enough
egg white to make a a fairly to make fairly soft but not runny paste. Spoon Spoon
small heaps heaps of of this mixture onto this mixture rice onto rice paper. Bake
at (350"F., Gas at 180°C. 180'C. (350°F., Gas Mark Mark 4) 4) for for 18 l8 to to
20 20 minutes. Hazelnut macaroons. macartxms. MACARONS MAcARoNs AUX Aux NOISETTES
NorsETTns Hazel- Hazelnuts, egg whites and nuts, and sugar are are used used for
for these these macaroons. macaroons. The hazelnuts are are not blanched. The The
method method is is the the same same as as for plain macaroons. Pine kernel
macaroons macaroons can can also also be be made made in in the the same same way.
way. In accordance accordance with a a regulation regarding regarding the the
naming of of foodstuffs, the above above biscuits may may no no longer longer
comnner'ci2ll1 commercially be called macaroons in France. be macaroons in France.
macaroons. MAcARoNs MACARONS DE DE MoNTMoRTLLoN MONTMORILLON Montmorillon
macaroons. These macaroons are shaped through a fluted nozzle nozzle into These
shaped through a fluted into They are a speciality of Vienna. rings. are speciality
of Vienna. MACARONS DE DE MoRT NIORT - Pound in a a macaroollS. MAcARoNs Niort
macarqrril in - Pound mortar 375 OZ., 2i cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds
almonds with with 5 egg mortar 375 g. (13 oz.,2t 5 egg 500 g. (18 oz., OZ., 2f 2i
cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Transfer Transfer the the mixmixwhites and 500 saucepan
and and dry dry out out on on the the stove. stove. Add Add 4 4 ture to a small
smalt saucepan ture te3isp oOIrJ.S finely finely chopped crystallised crystallised
angelica. angelica. teaspoons as usual. usual. Proceed as à la parisienne.
parisienne. MAcARoNs MACARONS A À r,l LA pl,nnlENNE PARISIENNE MacaroollS i
Macaroore Pound in in a a mortar mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 oz.,li OZ., li cups) cups)
blanched blanched almonds almonds Pound with 4 whites. Add 375 g. (13 OZ., 3 cups)
fine sugar and a with 4 egg whites. Add 375 g. (13 oz., 3 cups) fine sugar and a
Put the the mixture mixture in in a a bowl bowl and and blend blend !ittle vanilla.
Mix Mix well. weil. Put little onto rice rice in 2 2 more more egg egg whites.
whites. Whisk Whisk the the mixture. mixture. Pipe Pipe onto in paper. Sprinkle
Sprinkle with with sugar sugar and and bake bake as as indicated indicated above.
above. paper. Soft macarootr. macaroollS. MAcARoNs MACARONS MoBLLEUX MOELLEUX -
Pound Pound in in a a Soft -250 mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,l| OZ., Ji cups)
almonds almonds with with 250 (9 o2.,2 OZ., 2 moftar g. (9 lump sugar. sugar. Pound
Pound into this this mixture mixture enough double double cups) lump cups)
1

Asalad salad basket basket oflresh or fresh brown brown eggs(Phot. eggs (Phot.
Nicolas) Nicolas) A
MACKEREL
cream and egg white soft but not wbite to make a paste which is soft runny. runny.
Spoon the mixture onto sheets of rice paper and and bake as indicated above. above.
indicated

MACE. MAcrs MACIS - Dried Dried shell of the the nutmeg. Its Its flavour is midway
between It is between that of nutmeg and and cinnamon. lt is used used Bavour
marinades, brines and and sauces. to flavour MACEDOINE fruit or vegeMACÉDOINE -
Mixture or raw raw or cooked fruit
tables. It can be served either hot or cold. tables. The name name macddoine
macédoine is is derived derived from from Macedonia, the The formed by by small
were conquered by which were country formed small states which

Alexander ""'-''''''''''J'-' the Great.

(fruit salad). nn rrancEoonm DE Macédoine of fruit, chilled salad). MACÉDOINE

chilled (fruit Mac6doine of fruit, such as in season, season, such in a a bowl,
fruit in - Mix in sliced pears, peeled and quartered or sliced and sliced sliced
bananas, sliced apricots, strawberries, strawberries, whoJe apricots, whole
raspberries, raspberries, blanched blanched fresh almonds, etc. each a heavy sugar
syrup over the fruit, fruit, or sprinkle each Pour a layer of fruit with fine
sugar. a few few teaspoons sugar. Flavour with a of kirsch, maraschino, or other
liqueur. liqueur. Embed the bowl of fruit in in a a bucket of crushed ice. Leave
chili for 2 hours. to chill
RAFRAÎCHIS FRUITS RAFRAicHIs GUMESGUMES _

DE FRUITSFRUITs MACÉDOINE oF OF FRUIT. ulcfoonr MACÉDOINE DE MACEDOINE

MACÉDOINE OF ou LÉuacfDoINE DE I,6VEGETABLES. MACÉDOINE MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES.

LÉGUMES rfcuuns

Macédoine os butter. MACÉDOINE LtAc6nonIE DE with butter. Mac6doine of of

vegetables vegetables with AU and turnips into balls carrots and turnips into AU
BEURRE BEURR.E Shape carrots - Shape with a bali-scoop, or dice them beans or or
finely. Dice French beans a ball-scoop, them finely. cut them into lozenges. Dice
green asparagus tips. Boil each each tips. Boil of these green peas peas separately
in salt separately in salt and sorne some green these vegetables and water. Heat
the vegetables together and and blend in butter. butter. Season. Season. blend in
Cold oe LÉGUMES r6cuues MAcfDoINE DE of vegetables. vegetables. MACÉDOINE Cold
macédoine macedoine of FROIDS rRoros - Prepare, cook and mix in a bowl the same
vegetables with buller. butter. of vegelables vegetables with Macidoine of as in
the recipe for for Macédoine Dress with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper or with
mélvo'nn.als;e. mayonnaise. This dish can be ad or an "E>"·o_."m',,,,~n hors-
d'euvre. as a a sai salad or an be eaten eaten either either as Macédoine DE
uacfootxr DE cream. MACÉDOINE Mac6doine of vegetables with with cream. of
vegetables LÉGUMES mixture of cook the same same mixture of r6crnars À A LA rl
CRÈME cniw -- Prepare and cook ve)get.ables Blend in in fresh cream. vegetables as
as above. above. Blend fresh cream. M:acÉ~doine A op LÉGUMES I-fcuuns À MAcfDoINE
DE Mac6doine of vegetables in jeUy. ielly. MACÉDOINE LA which is is usually usually
served served rr GELÉE This type of macédoine, macidoine, which cnlfn -- This type
of jelly stock, with mayonnaise is set set mixed with with concentrated
concentrated jelly stock, is mayonnaise mixed jelly. It in as aspic aspic of of It
IS is also also known known as a mould mould Iined lined with with jelly. in a
vegelables. vegetables.

MACKEREL. - A fish. A long, slender. saltwater fish. MACKEREL. MAQUEREAU

MAeuEREAUslender, saltwater Ils blue or or and smooth, back steely steely blue Its
scales are small smooth, its back scales are small and greenish, and greenish, its
white. It It is is fatty fatty and an opalescent opalescent silvery white. its
belly an savoury, or soused. soused. and is is eaten eaten fresh, fresh, smoked,
smoked, salted or savoury, and lts mackerel is is derived derived soombrid. The The
name name mackerel Its real real name name is is soombrid. from means a which also
also means a word maquerean which from the French word the French 'procurer' or It
was fish because of its its 'pimp'. It was given to to this this fish because of or
'pimp'. (known as 'virgins') to as 'virgins') to the the habit of of escorting
escorting the the young shad (known males. males. The The male mackerel mackerel is
is polygamous. The young mackerels sansonnets. for young mackerels is is
sansonnets. The French French name name for Mackerel A L'ANGLAISE t'lNctltss -- Cut
Mackerd à I'anglaise. MAQUEREAU MAeT.JEREAU À Cut the the I l'anglaise. v.)
flavoured fish (q.v.) flavoured in a fish into a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.
into thick Poach in thick slices. slices. Poach with fennel. gooseberry purée.
pur6e. a rather rather liquid liquid gooseberry fennel. Serve with a Serve with
Mackerel A LA nouroNu BOULONMackerel à la boulonnaise. boulonnaise. MAQUEREAU
ueeuEREAU À i la NAISE a courtPoach in in a courtmackerel into NAISE -- Cut into
thick slices. Poach thick slices. Cut the the mackerel with a bouillon and skin.
Drain and skin. Arrange deal of vinegar. Drain bouillonwith a good deal on a dish
on a dish and surround surround with shelled, shelled, poached mussels. Coyer (see
SAUCE) moistened with a little wfih Buller Butter sauce sauce (see SAUCE)
mc,isten(x! Cover with of mussel cooking of the mackerel and and mussel cooking
stocks. stocks. the mackerel Mackerel BEURRE rraleunnsAu AU AU BEURRE Mackerel with
with browned browned butter butter J. I. MAQUEREAU 569 s69
Newly (Poilane. Phol. phot. Nicolas) Newly baked baked bread bread(Poilane.
Nicolasl

or filleted, in a mackerel, sliced sliced or NoISETTE Poach the the mackerel,

NOISETTE - Poach and pour lemon juice dish and on a a serving it on serving dish
court-bouillon. Put it on 2 2 to 3 taIJlesP()011S tablespoons butter to 3 serving,
pour on over it. it. Before serving, heated in a pan until nut brown. AU BEURRE
BEURRE uaQurnrAu AU II. MAQUEREAU M,~{'L[,por,po1 with browned butter n. Mackerel
fillet il. Poach in in mackerel into thick thick slices slices or fiUet NorR it.
Poach NOm. - Cut the mackerel dish and and a serving serving dish Put on on a a
vinegar court-bouillon. Drain. Put a and chopped parsley and little in the oyen.
oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped a !ittle dry it a juice or it. Before Before
or vinegar over over il. little lemon juice a little Pour a capers. Pour capers. (3
tablespoons) heated tablespoons) butter heated tablespoons (3 serving, pour on 2
tablespoons very dark dark brown. a frying pan until very in a as follows: follows:
be prepared as The mackerel can also be and sprinkle with Dry in in the oven and
sprinkle with a serving dish. dish. Dry the oyen it on a Put il juice or it. Pour
Pour or vinegar vinegar over over it. little lemon juice capers. Pour a little
capers. Pour a 2 tablespoons with 2 tablespoons above, with as indicated indicated
above, on on browned browned butter as (3 tablespoons) parsley leaves in il. it.
leaves fried fried in (3 fish Slit tbe the fish MAQUEREAU COLBERT coLBERr -- SIit
Mackerel Colbert. MAQUEREAU with and remove remove the bone. Se Season the bone. it
and along the as on with back. Open Open it the back. pepper. Dip and deep-fry.
deep-fry. in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and Dip in egg and and pepper. salt
salt and (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound d'h6tel butter butter (see Serve
with Maître Maitre d'hôtel Serve with butters). AU COURT-BOUILMleueREAU AU couRT-
BouILM:aC}ter,el in court-bouillon. Mackerel in court-bouillon. MAQUEREAU in a a
court-bouillon of or sliced, court-bouillon of LON LoN -- Poach Poach the fish,
whole whole or sliced, in the fish, juice, seasoned lemon juice, with salt salt and
and or lemon seasoned with water water with with vinegar or leaves. and bay
flavoured with bay leaves. with thyme thyme and with one one of of the the fresh
parsley. Serve Serve with Drain. Garnish Garnish with with fresh Lobster,
Hollandaise, Lobster, following Butter, Parsley, Hollandaise, following sauces:
saucesi BUller, (see SAUCE). Venetian (see SAUCE). Ravigote, Venetian FILETS DE oe
MAQUEREAU uequenreu À la dieppoise. dieppoise. FILETS l Fillets of of mackerel
mackerel à ir la drain. and drain. LA white wine, wine, and fillets in LA DIEPPOISE
DrEppoIsE -- Poach Poach the in white the fillets (see garnish (see a Dieppoise
Dieppoise garnish Arrange on a dish dish surrounded by a on a surrounded by (see
SAUCE), While wine wine sauce sauce (see with White SAUCE), GARNISHES). Coyer Cover
with and fillets fillets added added to it. with the cooking mussels and liquor of
of the to il. cooking liquor the mussels parsley. garnish with with chopped chopped
parsley. Sprinkle the the garnish DE MAQUEREA MAQUERBAU U FILETS DE Filleb of of
mackerel mackerel with with aubergines. auberginesi. FILETS AUX and fry in butter
butter à d fillets and fry them them in AUX AUBERGINES AUBERGINES -- Season Season
the the fillets la a serving dish. Surround Surround with with on a la meunière.
meuniire. Put Put them them on serving dish. juice over lemon juice over slices
bergine fried Squeeze lemon in butter. butter. Squeeze slices of of au aubergine
fried in piping hot. hot. the fillets. Pour Pour on on the cooking butter, butter,
piping the cooking the fillets. A FILETs DE os MAQUEREAU L{lQUEREnu À FiJlets la
florentine. florentine. FILETS Fillets of of mackerel mackerel il i la wine. little
white white wine. LA in a a very very little fillets in the fiJlets Cook the LA
FLORENTINE FLoRENTnis -- Cook on this of Cook Her. Arrange this bed bed of Arrange
the the fillets in bu butter. leaf spinach Cook leaf spinach in tllets on (see
SAUCE) with the spinach. the Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) witb with Mornay Cover
with spinach. Coyer cheese fish with grated cheese it. Sprinkle Sprinkle with added
to to it. fish cooking stock stock added grill. and in the oven or or under aa
grill. and brown brown in the oyen and melted butter and AU Fillets DE MAQUEREAU
MAQUEREAU AU FILETS DE Filleb of of mackerel mackerel au au gratin. FILETS (see
SOLE). gratin (see GRATIN an gratin SOLE). as for for So/e au cRATIN -- Proceed
Proceed as garnishes FILETS Fillets FILETS DE DE with various various gamishes.
Filleb of mackerel with of mackerel and MAQUEREAU in butter DrvERsEs -- Cook Cook
in butter and MAeuEREAU AVEC AVEc GARNITURES cARNITUREs DIVERSES surround cdpes
sautéed saut6ed following garnishes: cèpes with one one of of the the following
surround with in in butter; butter; cucumber cucumber of mushrooms cooked in in
oil; oil; thick slices ofmushrooms thick slices cut very small and cooked cooked in
in butter; butter; very small chunks and into small oval chunks cut into small oval
vegetable (courgettes or cut into into rounds rounds or zucchinis) zucchinis) cut
vegetable marrows marrows (courgettes and in oil oil or or butter butter saut6ed in
or oil; oil: tomatoes tomatoes sautéed and sautéed in butter butter or sautEed in
and potatoes sautéed garlic; coarsely coarsely diced diced potatoes saut6ed and
ftavoured with garlic; flavoured with in in butter. butter. juice and piping hot,
Pour hot, cooking butter, butter, piping and the the cooking Pour lemon lemon juice
over over the fillets. the fiJlets. ps MAQUEREAU Fillets A FILETs DE luA.QunnrA,u À
la lyonnaise. FILETS Fillets of mackerel à i la of mackerel (3 tatlles,poons) LA
tablespoons) Line a adish dish with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 LA
LYONNAISELyoNNArse- Line chopped gently cooked cooked in in butter butter and has
been been gently which has chopped onion onion which moistened lay vinegar. Season
fillets, lay 1 tablespoon Season the the fiUets, moistened with with 1 tablespoon
vinegar. them with more more onion onion and coyer cover them onion and them with
on top of the the onion them on top of (3 tablespoons, prepared Moisten with! with
+dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, prepared in way. Moisten in the the same same way. scant t
cup) white and dot dot with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and wine. Sprinkle Sprinkle
with white wine. scant* with with oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Bake in in the the
oyen. of butter. butter. Bake with tiny tiny pieces of chopped parsley. chopped
parsley. Fillets DEMAQUEREAU MAQUEREAU pi6montaise. FILETS FILETSDE la piémontaise.
i la mackerel à Fillets of of mackerel
MACON WINE MÂCONWINE

How contourt of of the How to fillet fillet mackerel mackerel:: Trace the contour'S
(Laroussel fillet with a aknlfe fillet knife (Larousse)

Slide the knife knife along the backbooe backbone and detach Slide (.I-arozsse) the
fillet (Larousse)

dip in egg and fillets and and dip the fillets in egg rn Season the - Season
breadcrumbs. Fry in butter. (q.v.) and surround with a of risotto risotto (g.v.)
Serve on a foundation of FONDUE). border of Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). la
vénitienne. FiBets Filleb of mackerel à dr la v6nitienne. FILETS FILETS DE
MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU wine with À LA - Cook the fillets fillets in in white A re
VÉNITIENNE vENnTENNE Cook the white wine and chervil. a serving dish. chopped
shallots and chervil. Drain. Put on a (sw SAUCE) Venetian sauce sauce (see which
the Coyer to which with Venetian SAUCE) to Cover with boiled-down pan juices have
been added. boiled-down AU Filleb of mackerel rrrEls DE MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU AU
Fillets mackerel in white wiue. wine. FILETS BLANC- Trim the fillets vrN
BLANCfillets and and season VIN season them with salt and pepper. Put in in a a
buttered baking tin. Moisten with with conpepper. Put buttered baking tin. Moisten
(q.v.) and and bake in centrated white wine fumet (g.v.) wine fish fumet in the
oyen oven for 8 to to 10 minutes. Drain, boil down the pan juices and use for White
wine sauce (see SAUCE). as a basis for SAUCE). Pour the sauce over the mackerel and
and serve. u.a.quEREAU FRIT FRIT This is is especially especially Fried Fried
mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAU - This suitable for in cold, boiled milk. Flour for
small mackerel. Dip in lightly and deep-fry deep-fry in very hot fat. Drain, dry on
a cloth and and parsley and with dry dry table season season with table salt. salt.
Gamish Garnish with with fried fried parsley lemon. MAeUEREAU GRILLÉ GriUed Gri[ed
mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAU cRrrrf -- Snip off the the tip of jaw and and slit
the fish along the the mackerel's jaw the fish the back. back. Open Open it places
without separating and cut the bone in two places separating the halves. grill
slowly. Season, baste with melted butter and grill form. Pour Shape Shape the in
its its original Pour on on half the mackerel in original form. (see BUTTER, melted
Maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter melted Maître butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound
butters). grilled fish, Any sauce for grilled fish, e.g. Any sauce suitable
suitable for e.g. Bordelaise, Bordelaise, (see SAUCE) can Provençale, Provengale,
Saint-Malo Saint-Malo (see can be be served served with mackerel. Mackerel la
meunière. meuniire. MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU À A LA LA MEUNIÈRE urtrNrine -Mackerel à i
la Prepare like Bass à la meunière like,Bass d la meuniire (see BASS). BASS).
Mackerel roes. LAITANCES LArrANcEs DE DE MAQUEREAU Mackerel soft soft roes.
MAeUEREAU See - See SOFT ROES. Soused Sorned mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAUX
MAeuEREAtrx MARINÉS MlnrNss -- Usually Usually served served as as a a cold cold
hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Proceed Proceed as as for for Marinade Marinade of of
fresh fresh herrings (see HERRING).
,d, À LA prcraoNrArsE PIÉMONTAISE -

all from and Pouilly-Vinzelles, Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles, ail

from the Fuiss6, Pouilly-Loch6 Micon. (See BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.) Solutré Solutr6
region, south of Mâcon.
MACONNAISE Wine cask Miconnais cask in in use use in in the the Mâconnais
MÂCONNAISE - Wine (46| gallons, 58 gallons). about 212 2l2litres district. It holds
about litres (461 (1+ is also applied to a a bottle, containing 8 dl. bottle,
containing dl. (1 This name is t Mnconnais wines. lJ pints), which is used for
Mâconnais pints, IJ

(A LA) given to various meat Name given to various MACONNAISE (À MÂCONNAISE LA) -
Name dishes flavoured with red wine.
in dyeing, dyeing, from used in cARANcE Plant used MADDER-WORT. MADDER-WORT.
GARANCE - Plant which a kind of beer can be brewed.
g. (18 oz., 4t cups) sifted flour MADEIRA CAKE CAKE - Mix 500 g. (l lb., g. (1 and
1b.,2 with t 2 cups) butter and teaspoon salt. salt. Cream 450 g. I teaspoon (l
lb., and Beat 10 l0 egg yolks untillight until light and g. (1 1b.,2 450 g. 2 cups)
sugar. Beat mixture. Sift in the add to the flour gradually. Add t add to the the
butter mixture. + grated rind of I lemon. Beat teaspoon teaspoon lemon essence and
the grated Line 2 2 900-g. 900-9. (2-lb.) and fold fold in. in. Line stiff, and the
the egg egg whites until stiff, paper. Pour paper or Pour the or waxed waxed paper.
with buttered bread buttered paper bread tins tins with pans and with sugar. and
sprinkle sprinkle the the surface surface with batter into the the pans batter into
(300"F., Gas Mark 2). Place small lf hours at at 150°C. 150'C. (300°F., Bake
liafter the the cake after citron on on the the surface surface of the slices of
éandied candied citron first 15 l5 minutes of baking. first

MÂCON VIACON WINE. VIN vrN DE MÂCON MAcon is weil well ruAcoN - The name of Mâcon
grapes from the known, the grapes known, thanks to the excellent wines made from to
the grown around this town dipartement. in the the Saône-et-Loire town in Sa6ne-et-
Loire département. The tends along the opes which which run The Côte C6te
mâconnaise mdconnaise ex extends the si slopes almost parallel to right bank bank
of of the Sa6ne between almost parallel to the the right the Saône Tournus and
Rhdne département. dipartement. and the the boundary boundary of the the Rhône
(known as Mâconnais as Mâcon Mdcon wines) are full bodied Mdconnais wines (known
aroma. and very smooth, with a a delicate delicate and distinctive distinctive
aroma. Tbe are PouillyPouillvMdcon wines The most famous of the white white Mâcon
wines are
570 570

This wine, wine, which which is vIN DE DE MADÈRE MADTRE WINE. VIN MADEIRA WINE. -
This grown on Madeira in in the grapes grown the on the the island island of
Madeira made made from from grapes Atlantic Atlantic Ocean, is one of the finest of
fortified wines. Madeira, such such as are made made in in Madeira, Various types
of wine wine are Various types of of Malmsey, Muscatel, Dry Madeira, made from the
grapes of into Madeira Madeira have been imported into vines which are said to have
been imported vines which are said to fifteenth century. Funchal, the century.
Funchal, in about about the the fifteenth from from Cyprus Cyprus in the storehouse
storehouse of these wines. capital of the island, is the It is drunk as wine. It as
exhilarating wine. a tonic and an exhilarating Madeira is a great deal in a great
is used in cooking. an an apéritif ap6ritif before meals and is used a pie served
pie. CROÛTE .lu MADÈRE rvrl,oinn with Madeira pie. cno0rn AU served with Madeira -
Fruit pie apricot sauce flavoured with Madeira. Lu MADÈRE demi-glace sauce Madeira
sauce. sauce. SAUCE sAUcE AU Meoins -- A A demi-glace Madeira (See SA SAUCE.)
boiled down with Madeira. (See UCE.) nu MADÈRE in soRBETs AU M,qoiRE served in
Madeira sherbets. SORBETS - Sherbets served just before Madeira poured over over
them just with Madeira sherbet sherbet glasses with serving.
and of flour, butter, eggs and MADELEII\E - A small MADELEINE-A small cake made
offlour, sugar. pastry-making says the of pastry-making says that the A chronicler
chronicler of the the history of madeleine when when he Avice, invented the great
pastry-cook, Avice, the madeleine of using Talleyrand. 'He had the idea of was
working for Prince Talleyrand. (q.v.) or (q.v.) mixture mixture for quate-quarrs
(q.v.) for little little cakes cakes tôt-fait tlt-fail (q.v.) or quatre-quarts
mould. M. M. Boucher and and Carême Car6me approved approved baked in an an aspic
aspic mould.
MAIGRE MAIGRE
The term maddrist madérisé in in modern French also also applies applies to to the
unpleasant bottle bottle smell smell of of a a wine kept for for too long long a a
period. period.
soup MADRILENE MADRILÈNE (A (À LA) LA) - Name Name given given to to a a clear
clear soup (generally with (generally served served cold cold or or chilled)
chilled) which which is is flavoured ftavoured with tomato other dishes, tomato
juice. juice. The The name name is is also also applied applied to to other

flavoured ftavoured with tomato tomato juice. juice.

of la soups invented by Brillat-Savarin, author author of la Physiologie

Madeleines old-fashioned moulds Madeleines made made in old-fashioned moulds

MAGISTDRBS MAGISTÈRES - Name Name given to a a number number of of nourishing

nourishing

du go,frt. goût.

'The first of the magistires', magistères', says Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin,

'is 'is made made
as follows:

idea. He gave the name of madeleines madeleines to these cakes.' cakes.' the idea.
(Lacam, Mdmorial la pdtisserie.) Mémorial de la pâtisserie.) Other authorities,
authorities, however, hold hold that that far far from from having Other been
invented invented by by Avice, these these little little cakes cakes were known in
been They believe France long before his his time. time. They believe that that
they they were France made at at Commercy, Commercy, and and were were brought into
into fashion first made first Stanislas Versailles and then, in Paris, by Stanislas
about 1730, first at Versailles Leczinski, father-in-law father-in-Iaw of Louis XV,
who was very partial them. to them. a very The for madeleines madeleines remained a
a secret for for a recipe for The recipe very large large sum to the long time. It
is said that it was sold for a very pastry-makers who made pastry-makers of of
Commercy, made of of this this great Commercy, who gastronomic specialities of
their finest gastronomic delicacy one the finest one of the town.

pot to and put all ail these these ingredients and put them them in in a a pot to
warm warm and

Chop 'Take 6large handful of of parsley. 6 large onions, 3 carrots, a handful

parsley. Chop

Commercy Commercy madeleines madeleines

Commercy Commercy madeleine. MADELEINE MADELETNE DE DE COMMERCY coMMERcv -- Work (1

lb. g. (1 together in lb. 6 fine sugar, 6 oz., in a a bowl bowl 625 625 g. oz., 5 5
cups) cups) fine sugar, (l lb. g. (1 lb.6 flour, 12 l2 eggs, l| teaspoons 6 oz., 5t
cups) sieved 625 625 g. o2.,Slcups) sieved ftour, eggs, 1t grated rind pinch of a
pinch bicarbonate of soda, rind of a a lemon, a of soda, the the grated salt. (ll
oz., g. (Il very smooth, When this mixture is it 300 g. When is very smooth, add to
to it 1$ Mix weIl. cups) melted melted butter. well. Put Put in in buttered
madeleine 1 t cups) butter. Mix moulds. Bake in a very very slow slow oyen. oven.
in a Plain madeleines. MADELETNES ORDINAIRES Ingredients. Plain madeleines.
MADELEINES oRDTNAIRES -- Ingredients. (9 oz., (9 oz., g. (9 g. (9 250 2 cups) 2*
cups) 250 g. fine sugar, 250 g_ oz,2f cups) sieved o2.,2 cups) fine sugar, 250
sieved (9 oz., g. (9 generous cup) 4 eggs, flour, 250 melted butter, eggs, a a
ftour, 250 g. oz., generous cup) melted butter, 4 pinch of flavouring. of salt,
salt, vanilla vanilla or or other other ftavouring. and ftavouring flour, eggs,
flavouring into Method. Method. Put eggs, salt salt and into Put the the sugar,
sugar, ftour, a spatula mixture is is smooth. a a bowl. bowl. Work Work with with a
spatula until until the the mixture smooth. Add Add the melted butter. the melted
required number number of of madeleine Butter Butter and and Bour flour the the
required mixture. The moulds should moulds. moulds. Spoon The moulds should be be
twotwoSpoon in in the the mixture. (375'F., Gas thirds 190'C. (375°F., Mark 5) 5)
for for 15 l5 to 20 full. Bake Bake at at 190°C. Gas Mark to 20 thirds full.
minutes. minutes.
acquire MADERISED. MADERISED. MADÉRISÉ wines acquire white wines trrnr6nls6 --
Certain Certain white maderwith id to a ftavour Madeira. These These are are sa to
be be maderwith age age a flavour of of Madeira. said ised. ised. 57r 571

brown brown with a piece of good fresh butter. just right, (6 oz.) g. (6 in 175 175
g. 'When the throw in the mixture is is just right, throw a slice of grains pounded
amber, with with a slice of 20 grains sugar, 20 candied sugar, pounded amber, 45
minutes and and add Boil for for 45 water. Boil toast and 3 bottles toast and
bottles of water. lost through through amount lost small fresh water to fresh water
to make make up up the the sm ail amount liquid remain. full of liquid evaporation,
so so that 3 bottles full evaporation, all, in in a mortar with with and ail,
flesh, bones and an old fowl, ftesh, 'Pound an (2 lb.) carefully g. (2 carefully
chosen beef. an iron pestle. Chop 900 g. and adding salt salt and 'When this is mix
the the two two meats, is done mix 'When meats, adding flame, so a high Bame, so a
saucepan over a pepper. Put the mixture in a pepper. and from from time right
through, time to through, and heat penetrates that the that the heat penetra tes
right mixture is is weil well so that that the the mixture little fresh fresh
butter add a a little time add time butter so pan. sticking to the pan. browned
without sticking strain the soup which is 'When the stock begins to brown, strain
little the little by by little With this, first saucepan. With this, moisten little
in the the first in in, it is is ail all mixed in, mixture in the second saucepan,
and, when it mixture liquid ripples 45 minutes so that the surface of the liquid
boil it for 45 from time be taken taken to to add hot water from throughout. Care
must be throughout. result The result level remains remains constant. The that the
the liquid level so that to time so long as as long as the is certain as effect is
a potion whose whose beneficial beneficial effect is a is able to digest may be, is
still to digest be, is still able he may invalid, however however exhausted he
food.' how the magistdre the magistère goes on on to explain how to explain
Brillat-Savarin goes BrilIat-Savarin given to invalid. the invalid. be given to the
should be given a hours a cup cup every every 3 3 hours 'On the be given he should
first day day he should be the first 'On days, a a following days, on the the
following he settles down for the the night; on until he settles down until in the
amount in and the the same same amount only and large cup morning only cup in in
the the morning large The invalid invalid should should be are used up. The
evening, until the 3 bottles are of legs of as legs nourishing diet, diet, such
such as light though kept on on a a light though nourishing kept jam. and jam.
fish, sweet sweet fruit and poultry, fish, be able able to invalid should should be
fourth day day the the invalid 'Towards the the fourth 'Towards normal life. return
to to normal retum 'is intended points out, intended 'This magistère,' out, 'is
Brillat-Savarin points magistire,' Brillat-Savarin 'This people who and for for
people who dynamic characters characters and and dynamic for robust robust and for
energies.' up their their energies.' generally wear out by by burning up wear
themselves out generally made from from shin of shin of another magistère magistire
made The mas master suggests another The ter suggests 'the weak for 'the weak and
and the the pigeons and intended for and crayfish, veal, pigeons crayfish, intended
veal, infirm'. infirm'.

DAYS. BYGONE DA OF BYGONE RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS MAGNY -- See MAGNY YS.
prc -- Corn France, sometimes sometimes eaten eaten bird in in France, MAGPIE. PIE
Common MAGPIE. mon bird mainly for for very dry and is is used used mainly The
ftesh flesh is is very dry and in the country. The the country_ in and more more
edi edible. are more more tender tender and Young magpies magpies are stock. Young
stock. ble_

given in milk soured Balkans to soured by by in the to milk MAIA -- Name Name given
the Balkans MAlA preparaleaven in previous fermentation as a a leaven in the the
preparaand used used as fermentation and previous ofyoghourt. tion of tion
yoghourt.
prescribed by foods prescribed by the the describing foods word describing French
word MAIGRE -- French MAIGRE and days days of of abstinence. abstinence. during
Lent Lent and for consumption consumption during Church for Church pervegetable
origin origin were were peronly foods foods of of vegetable In the early days,
days, only the early ln and eggs; eggs; gradually authorised butter butter and
Church authorised mitted, but but grad the Church ually the mitted, as fish; fish;
then creatures su such then flesh of of cold-blooded cold-blooded creatures then
the the ftesh then ch as
MAILLOT
(considered ta certain waterfowl waterfowl (considered to be be cold-blooded, cold-
blooded, too) too) such such certain as the pintail, the duck, the the shoveller
shoveller duck, the pintail, the scotcr, scoter, the waterhen, the waterhen, as
coot, the the coot, the teal, teal, the water-rail, the the water-rail. curlew, the
the curlew. heron, the the heron, the the godwit, the the sandpiper sandpiper and
and the the wheatear. wheatear. godwit, the office office of of maître maitre
d'hôlel d'h6tel was was always always held persons of held by by persons of the the
the highest rank, rank, sometimes sometimes princes of royal. Although of the
Although the blood royal. at that lime time the the office office was was a a
sinecure. sinecure, the maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel was, the maître was, at least
nominally, at least nominally, in in charge charge of of all all departments
departments of of the royal the royal al household, including including the the
kitchens and and cellars, cellars, and and ail all the household. the functionaries
and and servants. servants. functionaries The martre maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel of of a
a modem modern restaurant great restaurant or or a a great The private
establishment establishment today, today, must must have have a very extensive a
very extensive private range of of technical knowledge. He qualities of technical
knowledge. He must must have have qualities range of which will will enable him to
his staff to command his leadership which with staffwith authority and and
courtesy. courtesy. He He must must he a first-class first-class adminibe a
administrator and a a tactful diplomat. diplomat. strator He must must be
thoroughly familiar with details details of of the the special special He work of
of the the dining-room, kitchens and and cel/ars. cellars. He He must must be work
able to talk talk 10 politely but to the clients several languages able but - in
several - polilely not obsequiously. He He must must he be able able to his
clienls, to advise his clients, 10 not to guide them in in their choice of of
dishes, the go with their choice the wines wines to to go them and the fruit fruit
to follow. qualities which are the the qualities which the the modern maître mattre
d'hôlel d'h6tel These are must possess. If he is grand seigneur, as is no longer a
a grand as were the must the in the this office in the great royal important
personages who filled lhis households, he is is usually a good educaa man of
distinction, good households, particularly, a and, particularly, a master master of
of his his an, art, for for service at at the tion and, the an arl as cooking. art
as cooking. table is îs as much an

MAILLOT -- See See GARNrSHES. GARNISHES. MAILLOT

MAINE - See See ORLÉANAIS. ORLEANAIS. MAll't'E-

(A LA) MNNTENON (À LA) MIXTURES, Maintenon See MIXTURES, Maintenon MAINTENON - See
mixture, mixture. _ See MAIRE RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE BYGONE DA
DAYS. MAIRE YS.
* The MAISON The term maison is is often often abused abused in in restaurants.
restaurants. term maison MA1SON (or sorne All too too often often one one reads:
reads: sole sole (or other fish) some olher fish) maison, maison. Ail chicken
maison, maison. etc. etc. chicken The epithet epithet maison, maison, in in its its
origin and in the minds of The restaurateurs who honestly, indicates (hat who use
use it it honestly, dish in that the the dish in restaurateurs question has has
been made by been made by the restaurateur himself or the restaurateur or his
question following a a recipe which he can staff, following can daim claim a<; as
his own. own. stafT, Nevertheless, the lack precision. Il the term term docs does
lack It would would be Nevertheless, more satisfactory (0 de notre maison or à to
say say de d la manière manidre de de more notre maison, as it maison, since since
maison as it stands is is vague enough enough for for nOire restaurateurs to
unscrupulous restaurateurs to offer offer as as a a Tarte Tarte maison, maison, for
for unscrupulous instance, a pastry which which cornes comes from froma their a
maison other than lheir own, from a wh.ol(:sale wholesale confectioner, in fact!
fact ! There would be no great harm in this, were it it not that more abuses may
may arise [rom from it, it, when, when, for for instance instance maison serious
abuses is applied ta product whose a product whose name name împlies place of to a
implies its its place of îs applied (a liqueur origin. Fine maisoll, i.e. Fine
Champagne Champagne (a liqueur brandy) maison, i.e. origin. would he be suspect,
because, because, by law, the desÎgnations designations'Cognac' 'Cognac' 'Fine
Champagne' are and 'Fine pain are reserved exclusively, under pain and of
prosecution penalties, for for brandies made severe penalties, made in in of
prosecution and severe Cognac or or within within the official official boundaries
of of the the Fine ChamCognac pagle region. Thus, Thus, the the expression fine
maison maison is is a a purely fanciful one. lt It suggests to the consumer a a
Fine Champagne Champagne which the maison maison has imported for ilS its oWn own
exclusive exclusive use which the imported for Use from fact il it merely enables
from the Fine Fine Champagne region. In ln fact the sell, without of prosecution,
the restaurateur restaurateur to to sell, without risk risk of prosecution,
adulterated from spirits which come from terated brandy, brandy, made made from
which might might come from
anywhere. anywhere.

MAITRE D'HÔTEL D'HOTEL BUTTER. BUTTER. BEURRE spunRE Â LA r,c, MAÎTRE r,rAiTRE
MAîTRE D'HOIEL - A seasoned grilled meat seasoned butter butter served with grilled
meat or served wÎth D'HÔTEL
fried fish and other other dishes. Il It is is prepared by creaming fish, frîed nsh
and juice, salt fresh butter with chopped parsley, lemon lemon juice, and salt and
fresh butter with pepper. (See BUTTER, Compound butters.) pepper.

- A

N{AIZESee CORN. MAIZE - See

MALAGA - A A sweet wine made În in Andalucia, enjoys Andalucia, which enjoys a
great reputation and is used in cooking and confectionery. a There is white Malaga,
a golden colour, and red Malaga, which which is is a Malaga.
MALAXER MALAXER - French word ward meaning meaning to knead knead a substance in
order to la soften it. il.

MALIC ACID. ACro.

MALLOW. MALLOW.

MAISON MAISON DOREE DORÉE _ - See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE
DAYS. DAYS.

fruit some vegetables. fruit and sorne vegetables.

MALIeUE MALIQUE - An organic acid present in most

MAISON old MAISON DU DU ROI ROI (Royd (RoyaI Household) Under the the old - Under
French French monarchy, monarchy, this this was the the name given given to to all
aIl the the departments partments and and personnel of of the the court. court.
Chief Chief among these these was of was the bouche bouche dt roi roi (royal (royal
kitchens), which was was made up of
a a very very large large number number of of officials. officiais.

MAUVE MAUVE - Plant whose whose leaves, which which contain a viscous substance,
are used as an emollient viscous substance, emollient in poultices and infusions.
infusions. The The flowers fiowers are soothing soothing to chest troubles. The The
leaves lcaves can be eaten in salad or as a vegetable, vegetable, like spinach.

indicating indicating that it it is is made made in in the spring. It Il is is

prepared from from young, young, fragrant, fragrant, asperula asperula shoots.
shoots. This plant plant is is also known known as as woodruff. woodruff. Put Put
some sorne young young asperula asperula shoots in in a a large soup tureen.
tureen. Moisten Moisten with with a a bottle boule of of white white Rhine wine and
2 to ta 4 tablerablespoons of of brandy. brandy. Cover Cover the tureen and leave
Icave to infuse for for 30 minutes. minutes. Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,
*..rp) t cup) sugar dissolved in in a little water. Mix. Mix. Iittle water. This
Tbis drink drink can can also also be made made with with white white Alsace wine
wine or white white Graves. Graves.

MAITRAI\K MAITRANX - Drink Drink very very popular popular in Germany. Germany. The
name name is and trank is made made up up of of the the words words mai mai (May)
(May) and Irank (drink), (drink),

This famous wine made made in Madeira, Madeira, Cyprus and the Canary Canary
Islands Islands is named named after a vine originating in the Ihe Greek Greek
island, Malavosia. The transplanted transplanted vine yields a a slightly musky
wine, sometimes somettmes a little liule bitter, and heavy and, occasionally,
perfectly perfectly dry. It It is is very very similar similar to 10 Frontignac,
and and is is drunk drunk as as an ap6ritif. It is also used used a great deal in
cooking cooking in the the preparation of of sweets, sweets, and and to to flavour
certain sauces, sauces, instead of Madeira Madeira and other other heavy heavy
wines. wines.

MALMSEY MALMSEY (MALVOISE) (MALVOISiE) Wil\E. WINE. vrN VIN DE DE MALvorsrE

MALVOISΠ-

MAITRE MAîTRE D'HOTEL D'HÔTEL - Nowadays, Nowadays, the the title tille of of
mattre maÎtre d'h6tel d'hôtel is is reserved reserved for for the man man in in
charge of of the dining-room djning-room in in a hotel or restaurant. restaurant.
He He is is assisted by by a a team team of of senior, senior. hotel or junior
junjor and and assistant assistant waiters. waÏters.
Formerly FonnerJy this this title title was was used also also of of a a hotel
hotel proprietor, proprietor, but but only only in in the the provinces. provinces.
Previously Previously in in royal, royal, princely, princely, and and other other
noble noble households, households,
572 572

MALT MALT - Barley prepared prepared for brewing brewing by steeping, Sleeping,
germinagermination or or kiln kiln drying. (See (See BEER.) BEER.) Malt extract.
extra ct. ExrRArr EXTRAIT DE DE MALT MALT - A concentrated infusion infusion of of
germinated germinated barley barley which which is is made made into into syrups or
or crystals. It Il is is used used as as a a food, especially especially to to
moisten moisten porridges porridges for very very
young young babies, babies, because because of of its enzyme enzyme content.
content.

MANCIIE MANCHE - In ln French French cookery, cookery, the the projecting

projecting bone bone of of a cutlet cutlet is is called a a manche. MANCHETTE
MANCHETTE - A A paper paper frill frill for the the projecting projecting bones
bones of
cutlets cutlets or or joints. joints. (See (See PAPILLOTE.) PAPILLOTE.)
MARCHE AND LIMOUSIN LIMOUSIN

MANCHONMANCHON This is a name for: and baked l. A of flaky made of 1. A small flaky
pastry pastry and baked in in a small cake cake made
mould in in the shape of a muff. rolled out 2. A A petit four made of almond paste
out rather 2. four made paste rolled ralher of almond on a [hin, baked baked for a
a few seconds in rolled on in the oven, oven, then rolled thin, a kind of !ittle
little muff. wooden handle to make a are cold filled witl! with butter When these
manchons are When cold they are filled cream cream flavoured with praline (q.v.).
Each end of the biscuit is then then dipped into very finely shredded shredded
green almonds.

MARASQUIN Liqueur made made chiefly chiefly in MARASCHINO. MAnc,seuIN - Liqueur is

a a type of black Its main type of Zara, in Dalmatia. ILs main ingredient
ingredient is Zara, in cherry called marasca marasca in ltaly. Italy. The cherries
cherries are pounded and the stones crushed (which is is added and the mixture
mixture is not the case with kirsch). Honey is left 10 to ferment. Il It is then
distilled distilled and sugar is added.

pea or bean of which which the pod pod is or bean Sugar pea MANGE-TOUT - Sugar
eaten as well weil as as the seeds. They are cooked in the same way as French beans
(see BEANS, Frenchbeans)' French beans).
MANGO. MANGUE MANGO. MANcuE - The mango tree, of which the mango is cultivated in
the East East Indian origin. It Il is is cultivated is of East the fruit, is of
Mauritius island of Indics, Cayenne, the island China, the Indies, Cayenne, Malaya,
China, and in soulhem li .S.A. California in U.S.A. southern Florida and CaIifornia
a big pear, The mango is an an oblong fruit about the size of a green in colom,
colour, turning orange-yellow when ripe with a rosy The flesh orangesun. The on Ihe
blush on to the sun. flesh is is orange· blush the side side exposed to yellow in a
carrot. in colour, carrot. It is is pleasant pleasant in colour, similar to that of
a all tastes. flavour but a little little acrid and does not appeal to ail tasles.
flavour also be made can also Besides being caten made into eaten raw, mangoes can
jam preparation of Indian chutney, a of lndian jam and in the tbe preparation and
are are used used in pickle with a great reputation, a condiment. condiment. used
as a reputation, used

MARBLED. MARBLED. pnnsrt,I-i PERSilLÉ wben it is - Meat is said to be marbled when

flecked fat. This marbling only occurs flecked with tiny particles of fat. in meat
of the finest finest quality. In also applied ln French French the the term tenn
persilli persillé is is also applied to to various
green-veined cheeses. green-veined

and vegetables after MARC residue of various fruits and MARC - The residue an
abbreviation pressing. pressing. The ward is as an abbreviation for The word is
often often used used as distilled from the marc of grapes. eau-de-vie de marc, a
spirit distilled Il mean the It can also mean the residue of substances like tea or
coffee extracted by from which which Ihe has been been extracted by boiling or from
the goodness has steeping.

India MANGOSTEEN. unNcousrAN MANC,oUSTAN in lndia This tree tree grows in

MANGOSTEEN. - This confused with the and 10 be confused and the Spice Islands. Its
fruit (not to a delicious raspmango) is about the size size of an orange, with a
jams and It is eaten raw, used berry-flavoured pulp. pulp. Il used to make jams
berry-flavoured ofdesserts. other preserves and as an ingredient ingredient of
desserts.
CHEESE. MANICAMP MAI{ICAMP - See CHEESE.

'muddy' yields a a 'muddy' It yields MANICLE Vine grown grown in in Bugey. Bugey.
Il MANICLE - Vine that this vine was planted (épais) (ipais) wine. Brillat-Savarin
says says that by the Romans.

MANIER - French culinary term for working a mixture by applied to hand. It Il is is

particularly particularly applied to thoroughly thoroughly mixing mixing a hand. or
other other fat' quantity of flour flour with faL This mixture is with butter or
and is and stews, gravies and stews, and used 10 rapidly thicken thicken sauces,
sauces, gravies to rapidly used
called kneaded kneaded butter. butter.

popular in Paris. MANQUÉ MANQLJE - A cake very popular given under SPONGE SPONGE
CAKE. One manqui is is given recipe for manqué One recipe g. (13 oz., oz, g. (9
oz., Ingredients. 250 g. 2* cups) sifted flour, 375 g. oz.,2f Ingredients.250 g. (4
oz., 1 2 cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 125 g. I cup) butter, 9 eggs, a small pinch
pin ch of salt, vanilla. salt, vanilla. yolks with with the sugar, vanilla and
Melhod. Work Work the egg yolks Method. light and is light salt in in a and fluffy,
a mixing bowl. bowl. When the mixture is stiffiy add butter, flour, then, then,
stirring gently, the stiffly add the melted butter, beaten whites of egg. FiII a
brioche mould with this mixture. mixture. egg. Fill praline (q.v.) and decarate
Bake in a slow oven. Sprinkle witbpraline decorate Sprinklewith the top with a
piece of crystallised fruit.

MANZANILLA WINE WINE of sherry. - Kind of

and cultivated and li niled States and cultivated in the United and Canada. Canada.
The trunk abundant sap which the spring, yields of this tree, trce, tapped yiclds
abundanl tapped in the can be fermented fermenled or made into vinegar, but which
is usually eaten in form of of syrup (maple syrup) or or sugar ealen in the tbe
form sugar (maple sugar). A maple tree can yield, 24 hours, as much as as 30 tree
can yield, in in 24 hours, as 30 kg. (66 lb.) sap containing (4+ lb.) sugar. kg.
(41 containing 2 kg. Several varieties of maple yield sugar.
A SUCRE MAPLE. ÉRABLE ERlsrs À sucnr - A true native of South America,

MARAICHDnE MARAîcHÈRE (A LA) preparation applied - Method of preparation especially

to meat. The main especially to large roast or braised braised cuts of meat. mam
stuffed cucum· cucumingredients are carrots, small onions, braised stuffed bers,
salsify, salsify, artichokes, Châleaupotatoes POTATOES). Chdteau potatoes (see
POTATOES).
573 573

MARCI{E LIMOUSINGeographically and historiMARCHE AI{D AND LIMOUSIN - Geographically

hislo[ically cally these two ancient French provinces are different different from
Gastronomically, however, each other. Gastronomically, however, they can be
regarded as one, one, for not only are they neighbours but share the as but they
sbare culinary specialities. specialities. same produce and the same culinary The
province divided inlO into the the dédiThe province of of Limousin is is now now
divided partements and Haute-Vienne. partements of of Corrbze Corrèze and Haute-
Vienne. The The famous hare à d la royale royale was created in this province. hare
gras and POlled foie foie gral pâlés de de foie foie gres gras are made in Brive.
and pdtis arc made Potted as its cuisine, is famous. Limoges china, as well weIl as
In found foodstuffs In these two ancient provinces are to be found and of the
highest of every kind and highest quality. are famous, as are are its The cattle of
Limousin are famous, as ilS pigs, pigs, from Ground and winged which excellent
excellent pork products are made. Ground game abound in in the Marche and Limousin
FreshLimousin provinces. Freshand others) fill the rivers, lakes water fish fish
(carp, perch, perch, pike and and ponds of the region. The trout of Vienne, Maulde
and and YlzEre are very delicate in flavour. Vézère are flavour. Crayfish abound in
in the waterways. Notable, Notable, too, are the salmon of Vézère. of V6zdre.
gardens produce The market excellent vegetables, The market gardens produce
excellent vegetables, and offruit chestnuts. there is an abundance of fruit and
chestnuts. there all kinds of tbe woods of fungi are woods and fields of this
region, ail In the cipes and morels. 10 morels. to be found, in particular cèpes
and Limousin are made made in the Marche Marche and Excellent cheeses are
provinces. Corrdze produce The slopes of Argentat and Queyssac in Corrèze pleasant
pleasant wines. wines of The rose ros6 wines of Chabanais, Chabanais, Etagnat,
wines. The Saint-Brice, Verneuil and Aise, in the Vienne Valley, have a high
reputation. reputation. d'avoine (oat Culinary Soupe bouillie bouillie d'avoine
Culinary specialities specialities - Soupe (rye-bread soup); soupe aux porridge);
porridge); soupe au seigle (rye-bread au pain de seigle (cabbage soup); choux soupe
Brdjauda Bréjauda (a (a soup made from choux (cabbage soup made soup); soupe and
bacon. With Ihis cabbage and people of Limousin this soup the people a glass make
balf a glass of red red wine wine to to the last lasl make chahrol; chabrol; they
add half they add few spoonfuls of soup left in the plate). (balls made from
buckwheat flour mixed with Farcidures (balls Farcidures leaves. These sorre!
beetroot and and beetroot and wrapped in in cabbage !eaves. sorrel and and cooked
cooked in cabbage soup). are made small in cabbage are ~ometimes sometimes made
small and la Corrèze; crayfish Troul fish de la Trout à matelotes of fish Corrize;
crayfish d la meunière; meuniire; maleloles (meat pdtis, court-bouillon; broccana
(meat sausage in court-bouillon; pâtés, made from sa usage (this dish, veal\: hare
meat and or Chabessal (this meat and veal); hare au au Cahessal Cabessal or
culinary speciality of the region, is known which is the great culinary ri /a as
hare à d la la royale). Cèpes Cipes stuffed stuffed li among connoisseurs
connoisseurs as la corrézienne; farcidure offried pOlalOes; chou farci (stuffed of
fried potatoes; corrdzienne; farcidure cabbage). cabbage). clafoutis; and desserts
desserts are are Limousrn the sweets Limousin clafoulis; Among the sweets and
(buckwheat tourtons (buckwbeat flognarde; fruit fmit tan; cheese pdtd; pâlé;
lourlon, tart; cheese flognarde; (biscuits) galettes); croquanls (biscui galelles);
the macaroo!t\" Dorat;; tbe ts) of macarooras of Dorat the croquants Bort-les-
Orgues; Bort-les-Orgues; the lizerches. the meringues of Uzerches.
MARECHALE (A LA)

.\ B E R RY
....3

Nt-D R

F
!

^_-;-.--it.._ 'lr, o-t,=.'r.lo Game tt ,-i t.O Maaa.oon,

-rt:'J-.t:' -.lr*

i.. a..t'

Carp with white,, Trout, Crayfish(

A ,!'.....)\4 Goletons ti L Yv.rE

ra

6uiret
rl
I

--r. gTF..v IE
0.."i?', r"",.

gtuf,lllrQ. Hareirf
crroodi#r.:\
ry
a

p reiou.u,or.l1Jn" Lrmoustn duck

--l

CR

SE
Trout

la
Aubu-sso.

(-

lparzipan cakes and Uiscuits

t I ,l ,

AppJe( <i fo

mosc-d-ne.

Cl ofouti s (cher

tirt|...

la'l

""'-

^t'#:-, Ql.rzeonQlqf %-t

.

f.ym{u&'e4s-- -iL\'lr'ft--g

)Fe|Ietin.. ruo;serr;nes i. I
\cup.r. P,itis

t\er

-.=4i#;l:\..:l"v:a:#'>p
l*,n
Meringues
ng lwrth Black puddi ouddins lwrrn chertnu'

cli''{.

Uzerche

1,,,,,,.,1nes'tnuts

z\
!n

t M;lt,*Ee,./ l"*li:m ln", 4* / HtFffii

:','J"t
ruftles wi 'chesrnut i Cream of ofthestnut ioup, T ou r tonS,' F I ogno r d e s!

Chestnuts
.,

.n"r.nr( clafoutis I C O\ n

),

'b :,:,t"tr:
t

J("

A?

Gastronomic Gastronomie map mep of oC Marche Marche and Limousin Limousin

vf,AnnCffAl,n MARÉCHALE (A (À f,a) LA) -- Method Method of of preparing preparing

escalopes, wings wings and and breasts bn::asL~ of of poultry poultry and and other
small cuts, CUIS, dipping them them in in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and
and frying frying them them in in butter. butter. These These small cuts cuts are
are usually usually garnished garnished with green green asparagus asparagus tips
ti ps and and trufles. trumes.
MAREE MAREE - French French collective collective name name for for all al) the the
seawater seawater fish, fish, shellfish shellfish and and seafood seafood sold sold
in a a fish fish market. market. Paris Paris had had a a regular œgular daily daily
supply of of fresh fresh fish fisb as as early early as as the the sixteenth
sixteenth century, cent ury, thanks rhanks to ta the sturdy swrdy fish fish cart
cart ponies which which raced raced to to and and fro fro between berween the the
Channel ports ports and the the capital. capital.

master mas ter chef chef at once sent sent men men of of the the quartennaster's
quartermaster's staffand staff and ordnance corps in in search seareh of
provisions. provisions. All Ali they could find were 3 eggs,4 4 tomatoes, tomatoes,
6 6 crayfish, a small hen, a a little Iittle garlic, some sorne oil and a saucepan.
Using his bread bread ration, ration, Dunand first first made made a panade panade
with oil ail and water, water, and (lnd then, then, having having drawn and and
jointed jointed the the chicken, browned browned it it in oil, and fried Il-ied the
the eggs eggs in the the same sa me oil with with a few few cloves cloyes of of
garlic and the the tomatoes. tomatoes. He He poured poured over this this mixture
mixture some sorne water laced laced

MARENGO MARENGO - Name Name of of the the battle battle in în which which Napoleon
Napoleon Bonaparte defeated defeated the the Austrians Austrians on 00 14 14 June
June 1800. \800. This This battle has given its its name naroe to [û a a chicken
dish dÎsh which which was wa<; cooked cooked on on the the battlefield itself
itself by by Dunand, Dunand, chef chef to ta Napoleon. Napoleon. Bonaparte,
Bonaparte, who who on on battle battle days days ate ale nothing nothing until
until the the fight fight was was over, over, had had gone gone forward forward
with with his his general general staff staff and and was was a a long long way way
from from his his supply supply wagons. wagons. Seeing Seeiog his his enemies
enemies put put to to flight, Right, he he asked asked Dunand Dunand to 10 prepare
prepare dinner for for him. him. The The
574 574

with with brandy brandy borrowed horrowed from from the the General's General's
flask ftask and and put put the the crayfish crayfish on on top top to to cook cook
in an the the steam. steam. The The dish dish was was served served on on a a tin
tin plate, plate, the the chicken surrounded surrounded by the the fried fried eggs
and and crayfish, crayfish, with with the the sauce sauce poured poured over over
it. il. Bonaparte, having feasted feasled upon upon it, il, said said to ta Dunand:
Dunand: 'You 'You must must feed me me like like this after after every every
battle.' battle.' The The originality originality of of this this improvised
improvîsed dish dish lay Jay in in the the garnish, garnish, for for chicken
chicken d à Ia la Provengale, Provençale, sautled sautéed in in oil with with
garlic garlic and and tomatoes, tomatoes, was was known known in in Paris Paris
under under the the Directory Directory (1796(17961799). 1799). Dunand Dunand was
was well weI! aware aware that [hat the the crayfish crayfish were were out out of
of place place in in this this dish, dish, and and so so he he later later
substituted substituled wine wine for for the the
MARMALADES MARMALADES
water and and added added mushrooms. But But one one day, day, when when he he had
served said served the the dish dish improved improved in in this this way, way,
Bonaparte Bonaparte sa id angrily: 'You 'Y ou have left out the crayfish. It will
bring me bad luck. I 1 don't want any of of it.'
and it it Willy-nilly, the crayfish garnish had had to be restored, and
a bowl and and Season the meat with salt and pepper. Put it in a Season a cover
with the marinade, which must be quite cold. Keep in a coyer cool place. for
mutton, called called'en cheweuil'. MARICooked marinade marinade for Cooked 'en
chevreuil'. as indicated above, adding adding NADE EN EN CHEVREUIL Proceed as
indicated above, cHEVREUIL NADE - Proceed juniper and and rosemary. rosemary.
juniper vIN ROUGE Roucr -for meat. meat. MARINADE MARINADE AU AU VIN Red wine wire
marinade marinade for Red red wine instead instead of of white using red Proceed as
indicated above, using wine. Leave to steep for 2 hours. cRUEs UNCOOKED MARINADES.
MARINADES CRUES(for meat game). MARINADES meat and MARINADES and game). I (for
marinade 1 Uncooked marinade Uncooked por.JR VIANDES I vrANDEs DE DE BOUCHERIE
BoUcHERIE ET ET VENAISON VENAISoN -- Chop cRUEs POUR Chop 1 CRUES large onion, 2
shallots, 2 sticks I large onion, 2 shallots, 2 sticks carrot, 1 medium-sized
carrot, garlic. Put half these in a a and 2 2 clove of of garlic. Put half these
vegetables in celery and celery meat. dish, which must be be large enough enough to
to contain contain the the meat. deep dish, parsley, a a few few shreds and a sprig
of chopped shreds of of thyme Add a chopped parsley, thyme and Add peppercorns and
a a clove. bay leaf, 6 to 8 peppercorns put it pepper and and put it in in the and
pepper meat with with salt the Season the the meat salt and Season dl. of the
vegetables. Moisten Moisten with with 6 6 dl. dish. Coyer Cover with the rest of
dish. (scant I pint, (l pint, pint, pint, 2| cups) dry white white wine wine and
and 2f dl. dl. (scant cups) dry (l place. Tum meat over over Keep in Turn the oil.
Keep in a a cool place. the meat generous cup) cup) oil. with the frequently so it
is is thoroughly thoroughly impregnated with the frequently so that that it flavour
of the flavour the herbs. for venison, venison, 6 6 coriander coriander is to to be
used used for When this marinade is juniper berries should be added. added. seeds
and 6 should be seeds and 6 crushed juniper (for large large cuts meat). MARINADE
MARINADE II (for cuts of of meat). Uncooked Uncooked marinade II VIANDES DE DE
BOUCHERIE BOUCHERIE -_ Season SCASON the CUt CRUE POUR GROSSES GROSSES VIANDES thc
cut CRUE POUR (haunch, rib, pepper and and spices. rib, shoulder, etc.) with with
salt, spices. (haunch, shoulder, etc.) salt, pepper and carrot. carrot. Add Add Put
it in a ion and a bowl. Coyer with a a chopped chopped on onion Cover with garlic
cl parsley and of parsley and thyme, a 2 oves, a thyme, a 2 crushed a sprig sprig
of crushed garlic cloves, quarter of with cooking cooking leaf and and a a clove.
Moisten with quarter a bay bay leaf clove. Moisten of a (dry white few drops drops
of of wine or red red wine). wine). Add Add a a few wine (dry wine or white wine
plate, face face downwards, and leave leave to brandy. a plate, downwards, and to
brandy. Coyer Cover with with a (or longer, longer, in steep place for for 6 hours
(or in cool cool weather). weather). in a a cool cool place 6 hours steep in Tum
from time it is is thoroughly meat over over from Turn the meat time to to time
time so so that that it thoroughly impregnated with marinade. with the the
marinade. The with this marinade when when braised. braised. The meat meat is is
moistened moistened with this marinade (for small portions of small individuaJ
individual portions of Uncooked marinade III Itr (for Uncooked marinade pouR MENUES
poultry, fish, MENUES rrr.tnntADE CRUE cRUE POUR meal, meat poultry, fislq etc.).
etc.). MARINADE pdcns DE polssoNs, ETC. ETC. -- Season Season the the PIÈCES
voLArLLEs POISSONS, DE BOUCHERIE, BoucHERrE, VOLAILLES pepper before putting it it
poultry or and pepper before putting meat, or fish meat, poultry fish with with
salt salt and pieces in dish. Sprinkle with in Lay the in a a deep deep dish.
Sprinkle with marinade. Lay the pieces in the the marinade. parsley, chopped
parsley, finely ions or coarsely chopped or shallots, finely chopped onions
shallots, coarsely chopped on garlic if shreds leaf, and and garlic if desired.
desired. Pour Pour oil oil and bay bay leaf, of thyme shreds of thyme and juice
over and mixture. lemon juice over this this mixture. and a a squeeze of lemon
squeeze of Leave frequently. for 2 2 hours, hours, tuming turning frequently. Leave
to steep for to steep (for garnishes garnishes to with Uncooked to be be served
served witb marinade IV IV (for Uncooked marinade PouR galantine, etc.). pâtés,
pites, potted potted meats, etc.). MARINADE umrNADE CRUE cRUE POUR meatsb
galantines, pAr6s, TERRINES, ÉLÉMENTS GALANTINES, nns PÂTÉS, TERRINES, GALANTINES,
DE GARNITURE GARNITURE DES frfrrlnNrs DE pepper and garnish indicated and ETC. with
salt, indicated with salt, pepper ETc. -- Season Season the the gamish spices.
Leave to in and oil. oil. Leave to steep steep in Pour on on white white wine,
wine, brandy brandy and spices. Pour this for 2 2 hours. hours. marinade for this
marinade

garnish for for the has has remained to to this this day day the the traditional
traditional garnish
dish. dish.

and also also VEAL, detailed recipes recipes see CHICKEN, and see CHICKEN, For
detailed
sauté marengo. Veal sautd

Charente-Maritime MARENNES - Small port in in the the Charente-Maritime MARENNES

Small port and fine white and district where, in vast beds at La La Tremblade, fine
oysters are bred. green oysters Marennes. There is a confrérie There called the
Galants de la Verte Marennes. confririe called
PRÊLE MARES-TAILS. pnf;I-n

plant of of the the fields, Common plant - Cornmon especially in damp places, which
is hard stemmed and rich in especially silica. In their first week of growth the
young shoots, not yet

silicious, are edible and be used like asparagus. asparagus. The are edible used
like and can can be silicious, is mainand the habit habit of eating them is Romans
valued them and regions. They are also pickled in vinegar. tained in certain
regions. of beef and veal fat, parts ofbeefand fat, purified by heating and
decanting, groundnuts, and chumed Vegetable oil, oil, groundnuts, a !iUle little
cream. cream. Vegetable and churned with a sesame or coconut is added. This type of
margarine is for pastryis intended especially especially for This type making. type
called is used which is used in table margarine which making. The The type called
table household cooking cooking is made entirely from vegetable fat.
soluble made from the the most soluble fat made MARGARINE - Cooking fat

2t

2t

_ See MARGUÉRY RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE See RESTAURANTS MARGUERY DAYS.

MARIGNAN in Paris. a savarin Bake a MARIGNAI\ Paris. Bake - Cake very popular in
(q.v.) in a manque (q.v.) mould. When ready, soak: in syrup syrup soak it in
amanque flavoured with liqueur. on top of horizontal channels on top of liqueur.
Cut 2 horizontal (see the cake. d Marignan Marignan (see with Meringue à cake.
Decorate Decorate them them with the MERINGUE). Coyer apricot jam, leaving the the
Cover the cake with apricotjam, meringue plain. MARIGOLD. SOUCI ame of several
plants, plants, among among them Name them soucl -- N the cultivated marigold
flowers are are sometimes sometimes marigold whose yellow flowers used marsh The
fully fully blown buds of the the marsh blown buds butter. The used to to colour
butter. marigold pickled in vinegar, masquerading in vinegar, marigold are are
sometimes sometimes pickled as as capers. MARINADE cooked or or uncooked, in in A
seasoned seasoned liquid, cooked -A which foodstuffs, notably are steeped. notably
meat and fish, fish, are steeped. The purposes of a food steeped a marinade is is
to the food steeped The purposes to season season the in it by impregnating of its
condiments. condiments. impregnating them with the flavour ofits It also meat a a
tiule, little, and and kinds of of meat fibres of of some also softens the the
fibres some kinds enables an is longer th is rather longer meat to than kept rather
fish and and meat to be be kept enables fish generally possible. The