TREK TO

EVEREST BASE CAMP

N E PA L 2 0 1 9

“ Its not the Mountain we Conquer

”
but Ourselves.
- Sir Edmund Hillary

NI K H I L BA N G A
Before Touch Down Choosing the right company

Traveling is a passion which i thoroughly enjoy Amidst the mental chaos of not being able to
and with little of the planet earth i have seen, achieve my goal, the plan was re-scheduled to
my journey to Everest Base Camp is the most March 2019.
memorable one. Ii may cherish it for the rest of
Many seasoned hikers do EBC trek on their
my life. Trek to Everest Base Camp - a term that
own. I was bit skeptical about it.
never existed in my bucket list.
I decided to hire an agency who could assist
It all started over a casual chat with some
me with local logistics, permits during trek and
friend at a party. I had never heard about the
a local expert to assist my on the trek. Doing
trek to EBC previously and less did i know that
sufficient research, chose M/s. Mountain Mart
the conversation would have an lasting impact
Treks & Expedition.
on me.
Time Flies
I love to be known as a beach lover and enjoy
spending my weekends swimming in sea or Spending hours training my body I was in the
laying over beach soaking sun. My affection for best shape of my life! The last week before the
marine life even got me certified as an open trek is more of mental challenge than physical.
water diver back in 2018. Anxiety of my loved ones and their worry made
With no prior hiking experience and being an me re-think whole idea of this journey to Nepal.
acrophobic, the journey to 5800m height was But it was too late to react. Assuring everyone
never an easy task. and intervening my own qualms 21st March
2019 is the day I board my flight to Kathmandu.,
The preparations started in 2018, wherein i
Nepal
mentally prepared myself reading blogs and
watching videos of treks to Nepal.
 DAY 1 - KATHMANDU – 1300 M
Upon arriving Kathmandu first thing I did was to and expedition gears.
buy a local sim. My guide (Bishal) was waiting
Post induction, Bishal accompanied me to the
at arrivals. We introduced ourselves. Cab was
market to help me find additional warmers and
waiting to take us to hotel.
rain jacket. Upon retuning to the hotel i came
Soon after dropping luggage in my room, to know that kitchen was closed - so no food.
Bishal took me to office for an induction where
Headed back out in the hunt for food and found
I got briefed on day wise trekking plan, safety
a small but busy food joint where i had my first
precautions, gears, lodging, boarding, altitude
bowl of Thupka and steamed momos.
motion sickness and permits on trek.
Gathering advices from seasoned trekkers over
Last minute shopping, Kathmandu is the
dinner, i headed back to hotel to re-pack my
trekking capital of the world and Thamel (the
stuff before sleeping in the comfort of a decent
bustling district in Kathmandu) is the epicenter
bed in contract to upcoming few days.
of shops where one can find all kinds of trekking
 DAY 2 - LUKLA TO PHAKDING
Flight to Lukla
Butterflies in stomach - this morning the day The flight is also infamous as it gets delayed
started with enormous excitement. I was flying
to Lukla. Kathmandu domestic airport is where
the action kicks in. this place is packed with
trekkers, all for Lukla bound flights.
The tiny airstrip of Lukla is notoriously famous
as one of the most dangerous airports in the
world. It is also the busiest airport in Nepal for
one reason: it’s the gateway to Mount Everest!
Lukla is the starting point of all routes to Mt
Everest. Though there are other trekking routes
but they all require additional 6 to 7 days. This
is why most trekkers to Khumbu region choose
the scary 30 minutes flight to Lukla.
most of the time due to bad weather. So
well before you fly to Lukla, you get the first
opportunity to test your patience for things
move at their own sweet pace in Nepal.
It was only at 9 AM, a small bus took few of
us trekkers and Nepalese guides to the ground
where a Dornier 228 plane of Sita Airways was
waiting.
Well, the few of us on the bus were the maximum
number of passengers that this small plane
could carry and for many of us it would be the
smallest plane we had ever traveled on. The
excitement began!
Lucky to board first on plane, I occupied the left Soon I realized, our lives were now in command
window seat. This is the best seat as it allows of the pilots. Oh God, may we land safely and
you splendid views of Himalayas. thy shall survive!

These low height planes have the sitting The blue sky was alluring but the noise of plane
arrangement of all single seats, one on the left was too disturbing. Settling on my seat, camera
and other on the right, in between there is a in hand and eyes looking out the window gazing
narrow passage to walk through. amazing countryside and tall mountains.

The air hostess, served the boarders candies As the airplane was flying low and through
and cotton before returning to her seat on the the alleys of mountains top, I wondered how
last row (she never returned for safety briefing precious it is to be alive!
demonstration). The plane took off.
Suddenly I felt the flight descending. Rather Lukla Airport is very rustic, once the flight
tightening of seat belt, I made it little loose so comes to a stop, passengers are offloaded
that I could look out the cockpit window, the and handed over the luggage right next to the
airstrip of Lukla. plane.

The airstrip came into sight and my anxiety My expedition to the Everest Base Camp
stepped up. The white line of the runway started from Lukla at around 11 AM of 22nd
appeared and it looked no bigger than a two- March 2019.
lane highway. The runway ended on a hillside
Lukla is a small mountain village which is
and I knew it would be the testing time for the
situated at a modest elevation of 2850m. Most
pilots. Then I glanced at the pilots, they had
of the trekkers, who fly early and reach on
no worry on their faces. For them it’s seemed
time, start their trek directly and plan the lunch
to be just another landing on this tiny airstrip.
somewhere during the way. During the season,
Believing firmly that they would get it right, I
Lukla Airport remains busy almost the entire
held tightly my seat belts. A jerk! Big bounce!
day with frequent in and out flights and rescue
The wheels hit the ground. The plane bounced
helicopters. The streets of Lukla has variety of
once more and the engine growled. The plane
shops and one can have basic western style
was then moving fast ahead! The hill end of
meals and pick up any last-minute items for
the runway was getting closure. Turn right and
trek.
stop, I murmured. With no time thereafter I
lunged forward as the hard brakes ceased the
motion. Everyone on board smiled. Smiles of “Me & Bishal at Kathmandu airport
relief! before boarding the flight to Lukla”
Lukla to Phadking - The trek begins!!

Soon after leaving Lukla airport, at the beginning Everest Base Camp trail are called tea houses
of the trail there is a memorial gate dedicated to that are simple structures with a common
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa - first Nepalese woman toilets and communal dining hall.
to climb the summit of Mount Everest.
The only respite from cold is a cast-iron stove
The trail heads down from here for about 30 that’s get lit each evening in the dining hall
minutes before leveling at the village Ghat. where all the trekkers, guides and porters sit
Here we spun the prayer wheels clockwise together around the stove to keep them warm.
walking left around, passed the mani stones
In the evening, I wandered around to the nearby
and then went ahead on the trail. The path
waterfall and spent rest of my time chatting
was now relatively flat and easy up to the most
with fellow trekkers and my guide about the
popular day one destination Phakding. We
following days. .
reached Phakding in 4 hours from Lukla where
we had planned the first night. After an early dinner, I retired into my clean
room where I slept like a rock snuggled under
I was thrilled when we reach our first night’s
two layers of blanket.
accommodation. The accommodations in the

P.S. Alcohol consumption at higher altitudes is believed to cause dehydration and trigger Acute
Mountain Sickness (AMS).
Om Mani Padme hum

While walking, keeping prayer wheels to your right keeps you on the right hand of God.
They spin prayer wheels saying the mantra ‘Om Mani Padme hum’ giving blessings to
the climb ahead. Mount Everest has taken many lives and even in a trek to base camp,
which isn’t nearly as dangerous as the summit, it is still wise to respect the dangers on this
mountain.

Locals do well here and they respect the tourists because the tourists are what keeps them
going. Towns function well up here in the mountains. There is electricity from solar power
and water that they harness from mountains. That is not to say that things are easy. All
supplies, food and equipment need to be carried in by foot on top of harsh conditions.

Porters carry heavy loads on their backs. Children and women also carry loads. People
herd Yak trains with loaded propane and kerosene. Just walking the steep stairs in villages
is difficult for us. The Nepalese are a strong bunch. They smile and say Namaste (hello)
listening to music on their phones. All this while climbing uphill towards the tallest mountain
in the world with giant over-sized loads on their backs.
 Day 3 – Phakding to Namche Bazaar – 3440 m
After spending my first night in the mountains, morning was fresh. I was fully charged and
determined to conquer my second day of trek. Breakfast was at 7 and by 7.30 AM I was on the
trail.

The hike to Everest Base Camp takes us through the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO
World Heritage Site since 1976. At 1148 square km (443 square miles) the park is one of the
most awe-inspiring places I have ever visited. Like any national park around the world, we
needed a permit to enter and we had to check in with the park headquarters to be able to hike
to Everest Base Camp.

Bishal had sorted all permit requirements. He had more than five years of guiding experience
and knew many people along the trek. Everest nurtures and provides for the community. They
respect the mountain and keep traditions alive.

View from the Tea House Window

After checking into the park headquarters, we Suspension Bridges on Everest Base Camp
were officially in the Khumbu Region and on
While hiking over hills and valleys, I experienced
our way to Everest Base Camp.
some thrilling moments, especially in crossing
Day three of the Everest Base Camp Trek several suspension bridges dangling over deep
was the longest trekking day. We covered a gorges.
variety of terrain wandering through several
If you have a fear of heights, this may not be
suspension bridge over Dudh Kosi river with
your favorite moment, but the bridges are well
an overall elevation gain of 800 meters.
constructed and in excellent condition. I was
While trekking up some steep mountains you nervous about the suspension bridges.
see a lot of donkeys and yaks on the trails
taking supplies to Namche Bazaar. Whenever,
a train of such animals crosses you have to
make sure to get out of their way and stay on
the mountain side These animals don’t stop
for anything, they are loaded down with heavy
goods and have a long walk each day, if they
nudge you off the side of a cliff while crossing
you, well, that’s your problem.
The Lonely Planet says “Grit your teeth and Altitude can kill. I didn’t take this lightly and
climb onto a drooping suspension bridge refused to hurry in my pace. By the time I
floating at a dizzying height.” That sentence reached Namche Bazaar, I felt great at 3440
freaked me out. I had it built up in my head meters. I checked into the security post and
as something monstrous. But by the time I cringed when I found that the lodge was uphill
reached the bridge, I wondered what was all another 20 minutes. I guess, rest had to wait a
the fuss about? bit longer.
The hardest part of the day started was the
last two hours of hike straight up to Namche
Bazaar. I was drenched with sweat but the air
was cool. Whenever I stopped for a break, I
would get a chill so we just kept on chugging
away. Groups pass us quickly, only to be caught
a few minutes later when they rest.
First rays of sun falling on the mountain peak

DAY 4 – NAMCHE BAZAAR (ACCLIMATIZATION DAY)

Most high-altitude treks have at least one acclimation day. The Everest Base Camp trek is no
exception. Acclimatization gives your body a chance to adjust to the altitude. If you are not
feeling well, it is a good day to relax.

I woke up early in the morning and was gifted with a splendid view of the town Namche Bazaar
and the morning sun rays on the ridge of Mt Kongde. Namche Bazaar at an elevation of 3440m
above the sea level is the most happening and highest administrative town in Khumbu region.

A market takes place on every Friday and Saturday in the center of the town. If you look from
distance it would appear as if a second-hand cloth market with everything spread out on the
ground. But it trades all brand-new items from grocery, fresh vegetables, clothes, foot wears,
meats to alcohols. Prices of each and every thing are very high as they need to bring from down
the valley or Kathmandu. A liter of mustard oil was selling at Nepalese Rs.400/- (NRP 300/-
for vegetable oil) and Nepalese Rs.4000/- for a home-grown live chicken. There is a big gap
between the prices for locals and tourists. So, if you want to buy something, have porter or guide
with you, get them to make the purchase for you.
Almost anything you might need for the trek ahead like down jacket, shoes, socks, cloths, caps,
scarves, sleeping bags, sun screen cream, lip balm, tissue paper and trekking maps etc. can be
bought on the street of Namche Bazaar. The town has a German Bakery too; well-known in the
region for providing good quality of western food including pizza. It also has a small health unit,
two chemist shops and an ATM of Nepalese Bank.

In Khumbu region they only grow potatoes and that too not enough. So, as you go high, the
option for vegeterian is mainly limited to potatoes with limited greens. Namche Bazaar has a
population of around 500. It has more tea houses (lodges) than the residence of locals. Children
get here only primary education and thereafter either they quit study or go to the Sir Edmund
Hillary School at nearby village Khumjung. Those who can afford further cost, get their higher
education from Kathmandu.
Hike to the Everest View Hotel
After the difficulty of our last day hiking to
Namche Bazaar, the acclimatization or rest day
here was well deserved. But rest day is not to
lay in bed watching over mountains, as ‘rest
day’ is a term for an acclimatization day when
you climb high during the day and then sleep
low at night. So, while you are not actually
trekking to your next destination, you still hike
to much higher elevation to help your body to
adjust with the high altitude more easily – a
painful but necessary evil! The most common
walk on the rest day at Namche Bazaar is to
the Everest View Hotel, then climb down to
Khumjung village and by the late afternoon
return to Namche Bazaar.

Early in the morning we set out from our

teahouse along the main trekking route to
Everest Base Camp. After climbing only a
few hundred meters vertically we arrived at
a junction. The straight path goes to Everest
Base Camp and the steeper one on the left
takes you to the Everest View Hotel. Looking
at the climb anybody would certify it a much
harder than that of yesterday to Namche
Bazaar. But slowly we hiked to the airstrip of
Syangboche at the elevation of 3790m. The
runway of Syangboche certainly surprised me
as it was made of just cutting mountain sides
and also was smaller than Lukla. Thankfully, no
passenger aircraft flies from here and it is used
only to carry supplies by Helicopter. But there
is no concrete helipad too.

Climbing further up - the panoramic views

were captivating me all along the way with
clear views of Mt. Thamserku and Mt. Kongde
Ri. Finally, after a hike of two hours I reached
Everest View Hotel at an elevation 3880m!
First View of Mount Everest

Right behind the Everest View Hotel there is an outdoor lobby or viewing deck which gives
outstanding views of Mount Everest, standing quietly behind other mammoth peaks of earth.

Lhotse, Changri, and Nuptse surround the highest mountain at 8414m, 6027m, and 7861m. They
are the little sisters to mighty Mount Everest which stands at 8848 meters.

This hotel also holds the title of world’s highest hotel. After spending some time here, we resumed
our trek down to the Sherpa village of Khumjung.

First view of the mighty Mt. Everest

 Khumjung Village

All the houses in this village were built with a green rooftop except the Buddhist Monastery with
a red roof. A school was founded here by Sir Edmund Hillary on the courtyard of which you would
also see a statue of the first Everest climber. New Zealand Mountaineer - Sir Edmund Hillary!

Khumjung Village – Bird eye view

Khumjung Monastery and Yeti Scalp
Another main attraction of Khumjung village
is its Monastery that displays a rather unusual
relic, claims to be a scalp of Yeti (abominable
snowman).
The legend has that many years ago, before
Khumjung monastery was established, the
people of villages Thame, Namche, Khunde
and Khumjung celebrated the festival of Dumji
together at Thame every year.
However, a dispute arose after some time over
management of the festival and people of
Khunde, Khumjung and Namche left Thame to
celebrate at Khumjung.
When they left, the people of Khumjung
expected a cultural gift – perhaps prayer flags,
Buddhist scriptures or ritual instruments from
the people of Thame but were surprised to
receive only a Yeti scalp.
The villagers of Khumjung were so offended Back to Namche Bazaar
that they kicked the skull all the way home.
After lunch, I walked to the other side of our
Only now, after increased interest from western Hotel through a narrow uphill lane to the
tourists, mountaineers like Sir Edmund Hillary Sagarmatha National Park Museum, Namche
and western scientist the so-called scalp of Bazaar. It’s a museum enclosing artifact used by
Yeti has got some value and found a place in climbers during early days of summiting, it also
the Khumjung Monastery. In 1960, Sir Edmund has a local tradition section containing pieces
Hillary sent the scalp to the West for laboratory of information about how the Khumbu region
test, whose results indicated that the scalp was has evolved. It also has a section describing
made from a goat-like Himalayan antelope. flora and fauna of Khumbu region.

The rest of the evening was spent buying

couple of last-minute items from the market,
chit chatting with Bishal and some reading.
 DAY 5 – NAMCHE TO TENGBOCHE – 3870 M
Today was another difficult day making our way to Everest base camp. I felt stronger. Somehow
my body adjusted well to the altitude. Today the climb was steep but I didn’t feel nearly as
tired as the climb into Namche Bazaar, two days ago.

Surrounded by astounding panoramas of the Himalayas the day is exciting and exhausting at
the same time.

The walk from Namche Bazaar to Tengboche started with a very steep climb. We reached the
junction with a big prayer wheel from where a steep uphill road on the left goes straight to
the Everest View Hotel and the straight one leads to Tengboche, our intended destination of
stay for the night. After a hike of 20-25 minutes the trek became easy on which most of the
trekkers were in fact walking very fast.
Everest Base Camp Trail Maintenance

The trail is well maintained on this portion of the Everest Base Camp Trek. That is because
of the effort and work of Pasang Sherpa. He has been maintaining this trail for over 40 years
and has done a fantastic job. He takes donations from trekkers to pay his workers. We learned
that the government doesn’t provide funding for the trail to Mount Everest.

It is the efforts of people like him that keep the trails in shape they are today. His donation
booth is located just a little past a monument set up by the Norgay family honoring Tenzing
Norgay Sherpa and all the Sherpa’s that risked their lives for Everest.

I encountered a big Buddhist Stupa with the views of Mt Everest, Mt Lhotse and Mt Ama
Dablam on the background. We moved further and arrived at a junction with a signage
indicating the road to Gokyo Valley on the left and Tengboche on the right.
What is a Sherpa?

Sherpa’s and porters are very different. I

learned that Sherpa is actually the name
of an ethnic group from Tibet. The original
mountaineers used Sherpa’s as their guides
in the Himalayas and the world has now
adopted the name for porters in the Everest
region.

If you aren’t born into the Sherpa ethnic

group, you cannot be called a Sherpa. Porters
are porters and Sherpa’s are Sherpa’s.

Following the path to Tengboche we progressed.

After crossing the villages Kyangjuma, Sansa
we began to walk downhill losing much of the
altitude gained over last few days. We walked
over a series of steep downhill steps which
went all the way to level the Dudh Kosi River
at Phunki Tenga. It’s a lunch point for many
people before attempting the steep climb to
Tengboche.

Phunki Tenga has an Army checkpoint where

our TIMS permits were checked before we
moved ahead on the trail. The final push was
once again a steady 2-hour steep climb. We
put our heads down and huffed and puffed our
way up. We didn’t stop for any photos or video
and were surprised to cut the climb down to
just one and a half hours.

Slowly slowly, bistari bistari, we made it to

Tengboche well before our targeted time. We
reached Tengboche right before the weather
took swiftly changed, I was happy to beat the
heavier snowfall to come. After dumping my
stuff at the teahouse, I had a tea and headed to
the Tengboche Monastery.
Tengboche Monastery

Tengboche is located at an altitude of 3867m The snow makes it much more beautiful here.
and has an important Buddhist Monastery, the Soon after we came back from monastery to
largest in the Khumbu region. Originally built in the teahouse, weather took a complete change.
1923, the monastery was destroyed by fire but It started to snow and within no time there was
with the help of volunteers and foreign aids, it a thick layer of snow all around the teahouse.
was rebuilt in 1989. Teahouses at higher elevation tend to get bit
In the center of the village, there is a bakery crowded in evenings. Having early dinner, I
which claims to be the highest in the world retired to my tiny room.
and at nearly about 4000m altitude, it is easy Have never been in such cold conditions. The
to believe. thrill of having heavy snowfall right outside my
room made my a bit anxious. Plus the walk to
outhouse in this weather, don’t ask!!

Tonight I used my sleeping bag for the first

time during this trek. I was told water would
freeze overnight, so in goes with me batteries
and water bottle to the sleeping bag.
Tea Houses at Higher Elevation

At this higher elevation, the tea houses are very basic and rustic. I felt like true
adventurer as I sat by the fire warming my feet and swapping stories with other trekkers
by candlelight. When I went to bed, my room was freezing. The temperature easily
dipped down to -10 Celsius and the plywood walls didn’t offer a lot of comfort.

I tossed and turned all night long. It was so cold the scoop bucket for the shared
squat toilet froze over forming a patch of ice on the floor. It was a slippery trip to the
outhouse.

Not a perfect night for sleep but next morning I woke up and found that snowfall had
changed the entire landscape leaving behind amazing views.
Helicopters to rescue

DAY 6 – TENGBOCHE TO DENGBOCHE – 4,360 M

Next morning, it was freezing!! We actually
survived a snow storm last night, communication
were down. All trekkers whom I met last night
were in a dilemma to whether continue trekking
or wait for weather to get better.
by as large groups of yaks and people carry
giant loads of gear. It is exciting to think as I
was walking the same trail as so many great
mountain climbers, like Sir Edmund Hillary and
Tenzing Norgay Sherpa.

Conditions outside were not ideal for trekking. Altitude Sickness – A Very Real Threat
Hard ice make walking much more difficult
I spoke to a group of people whose companions
and risk of slipping are high. Nonetheless,
had to go back down due to symptoms of
Bishal was confident, so I had to be!! After
altitude sickness (AMS). A rescue helicopter
our breakfast, we headed out in full protection
flew overhead and we heard stories of people
including a rain cover.
being flown out regularly. A fellow from
Today we walked to higher altitudes and saw Norway told us of a family that was rescued by
our first trains of wooly yaks. Yak can’t survive helicopter. $6000 later they were safely down
at low altitudes because it is too warm for them, at a lower altitude and feeling better.
so you don’t see them until at least 3000 meters.
Luckily, I don’t feel in any danger at this point.
They are beautiful but mighty beast. Signs of
The trails are excellent and we take it slow and
expeditions going up to summit Everest go
steady each day.
Treatment and Medication Soon I found myself walking along the ledge
Was glad that I packed ORS for my water. It not thinking at all about the dangers below.
made it taste better and kept me well hydrated. Food and Comfort on EBC
I made a point of drinking at least 2-3 liters of
Body aches and pains have popped up from
water per day while on trek.
carrying the backpacks. Shoulders are a little
I was so reluctant to start the trek today but stiff each evening and the beds aren’t the
have to admit, today turned out to be the most comfortable, so a little ibuprofen has
highlight of my entire EBC trek. The snow from helped to take the edge off. Oh, and the
the night before made for more incredible snacks I carried eased most of the pain.
views. The trail was empty with much fewer
Sitting around iron stove burning yak dung,
trekkers but in couple of weeks that all will
(there aren’t trees at this level and the
change as it will be high season and the trails
Nepalese burn dried yak dung to keep warm)
will be packed.
I enjoyed sipping tea and reading most of the
I conquered what little fear of heights I had time books on Everest.
left this day. Some of the narrow paths drop
sharply into the deep valley below.
 DAY 7 – DENGBOCHE (ACCLIMATIZATION DAY)
The trail on the previous day was priceless,
there was snow throughout my way to
Dengboche providing an accurate sense of
being in Himalayas. My water proof shoes had
water seeped into them due to contact with ice
throughout the day and stacking them against
iron stove in the evening didn’t help much.
This day was a scheduled for acclimatization,
that means a challenging hike to higher
elevation retuning to same elevation. This
process stimulates the body for higher altitude
and lesser oxygen intake to follow.
trekking the Everest Region at this time of year
(Late March), but the skies are clear and blue.
I had a front row seat to some of the best views
on earth.
An entire panorama of the mountains standing
proudly overhead, reaching up to the deepest
blue sky that I have ever witnessed. The
Himalayas are astonishingly beautiful. The
scene took my breath away. The mountains
looked more imposing with each corner I
turned.

In the morning the sun was out and the weather

looked perfect for a hike. After breakfast which
was Tibetan bread with Jam (Tibetan bread is
deep friend, high in calorie but much needed for
strenuous hike ahead). It may be a little colder
Hobbits on the Everest Base Camp Trek?

When I came across a small cluster of houses, I felt like we had entered the Kingdom of
Middle Earth.

Little Hobbit houses lined a valley with giant peaks looming overhead. These are community
kitchen house used during a particular period in a year when no one at the valley cooks food
in their kitchen.

Weather changes very rapidly

The wind picked up and I put on the down

jacket. I was thankful to have them as we
staggered through the high gusts.

We faced quite the scramble up a steep hill

littered with boulders. It looked like a tough
climb, but we moved slowly and quickly
made it to the top. The winds were howling
and gushing through my face. I could feel the
impact of small icy particles on my face.

We waited for the winds to slow down. Bishal

instructed me to close my eyes shut as dry
ice particles are dangerous for eyes. Waiting
for the air gush to pass for almost 30 minutes
we decided to move slowly towards the valley
while staying on the ridge, taking cover at
stupa after stupa.
 DAY 8 – DENGBOCHE TO LABOUCHE (4,940 M)
I woke up this morning to ice tracing a frosty We set off again on probably the steepest part
pattern on my window. It had been a cold night. of the day’s trek, the ascent to Dughla Pass
I gulped my morning liter of water. Soon after at 4830m. I was glad that with Bishal’s much
having breakfast, left my colorful little room inslower pace I found the going much easier
Dengboche heading towards Labouche. than I had on previous days, and resolved to
try to maintain that sort of pace for the rest of
Bishal set the pace for today’s trek, as he
our climb.
wanted to ensure that i took it slowly. As we
left Dengboche trekking across the vast plains, At the top of Dughla Pass, there was a memorial
helicopters whirred overhead more and more park for all that had lost their lives climbing
often, always rescuing someone. The slower Everest, some with plaques detailing their
pace really suited me and I was actually feeling accomplishments, and others no more than a
pretty good. simple stack of rocks. It was a tranquil place,
and a fitting way to preserve their memories.
After about 2 hours trekking, we stopped off in
Thukla for a hot drink and a longer rest break. A moving site and a strong reminder to not take
Although I was not much hungry at this point, things lightly on Mount Everest, even if you are
I ordered myself a bowl of garlic soup (local only trekking to Base Camp. It is still a serious
recipe to avoid AMS). trek.

Memorials at Dughla Pass

Such a peaceful place!

After leaving the memorial, we ascended into

yet another type of terrain. We were now well
past the tree line and into glacial moraine,
a grey and barren landscape punctuated by
occasional icy aqua lakes. We caught our first
glimpse of Kalapathar, which we’d be climbing
in just 2 days, as well as more stunning mountain
vistas – you just don’t get sick of them!

Just as I was starting to tire a little, we passed

a rock that indicated it was only 30 minutes
further to reach Lobuche. With a renewed
spring in my step I made it along the last bit oaf
distance, arriving in tiny settlement of Lobuche An adorable dog accompanied me in the
before 1pm. vast plains of Thukla!
Checked into my room, dropped off my
backpack and changed to cleaner clothes.
I sat in the dining hall for the rest of the Amongst all the peaks in Himalayas - Ama
afternoon talking to Bishal and other fellow Dablam has inspired me the most – standing
trekkers. Despite the high altitude, I actually 6,812 m tall!
felt quite good aside from a mild headache that
worsened as the evening went on. As there are
so few teahouses in Labouche the dining hall
soon became quite crowded, so after an early
dinner of vegetable chow mein I headed to bed
to do some reading and have a good sleep.

I had an early start the next morning, leaving

to start our trek at 7am as we had a long day
ahead – to Gorakshep Shep, then to Everest
base camp and back!

Going to sleep I could barely believe that after

all the months of planning and preparation I
had put in, the day that I would reach Everest
Base Camp was only one sleep away!
 Day 9 – Labouche - Gorakshep (5,160 m) - Kalapathar (5,545 m)
It was a slow climb to Gorakshep. We stopped regularly to catch our breath and today we took
more breaks than usual. Luckily it was only a couple of hundred meters in elevation gain so we
made it to our guest house by 12:30. The sun was shining brightly and it was quite pleasant
outside.

After eating a hearty meal of vegetarian Sherpa stew on the terrace, (yes, i ate outside in the
warm sun above 5100 meters) we set out for Kalapathar.

Here I deviated from my plan as the weather forecast for next couple of days showed clouds and
80% chances of rain which would have made me miss the best possible views of Mount Everest.
Hence, instead of going to Base camp as per plan, we headed to summit Kalapathar.

Climbing Kalapathar
This was probably the hardest part of my entire trek. The trek to Kalapathar is so difficult that
even locals at my teahouse warned of the trail that lies ahead. There was sense of caution within
everyone who were summiting Kalapathar. This warned me a little.

The trail for first two hundred meters of elevation was slightly inclined. But as we ascended the
inclination got steeper and the air thinner. The only mantra was to continue walking ‘Bistari,
bistari – Slowly, Slowly’. It took me almost two hours to reach till the top of Kalapathar.
Views from Kalapathar
After the tiring trek till the top of Kalapathar, I
was only amazed by the spellbinding views of
the mount Everest and its surrounding peaks.
I spend around 30 minutes clicking pictures
and soaking in heavenly silence and splendor
mother nature has to offer.
While retuning to Gorakshep, I had an acute
head ache with dizziness. The last lag of
descend was the toughest for me, as if my
body was waiting to descend before triggering
its symptoms of discomfort in oxygen deprived
environment.
The state of my health worried Bishal, upon
reaching the teahouse at Gorakshep he
offered me bowl of garlic soup. He insisted me
to avoid taking Diamox, hence I popped in a
paracetamol to ease the headache. For the
next two hours I just lay in my bed trying to
regain control over my senses.
Later in the evening i felt better. Spent rest of
my evening relaxing at teahouse. Didn’t felt like
eating anything for dinner, but again, Bishal
insisted to have something. So had Dal Bhat.
Rejoicing at the top of Kalapathar with clear views of Mt. Everest & Khumbu Glacier
Day 10 - Gorakshep - Everest
Base Camp (5,364 m) –
Gorakshep – Periche (4,280 m)

Today was the day to attain the ultimate goal of

my Journey. I got up bit early due to additional
rest I took during the last evening (generally I
avoided sleep during daytime to not disturb my
sleep cycle)

The trek to Base Camp from Gorakshep is an

easy one. It’s two hours of walking with only a
small elevation gain, which i made it with ease.
Celebrating at Base Camp Everest

The Khumbu Ice Fall is the first thing to come

into view, and it is unbelievable to think that we
are actually standing there.

Glacier at Everest Base Camp

Me and Bishal were the only at Base Camp

when we arrived. We saw another group of four
coming behind on our way up, but I had enough
time for photo opportunity. It was thrilling.

It may have been more exciting later in the

season when Everest Expeditions are there, but
I really liked having such peace at base camp.
There wasn’t a soul there. I was also thrilled to
see how clean it was. Great efforts have been
made to clean up base camp over the years,
and it seems to have worked.

I stood at a rock covered with prayer flags

announcing that yes, I had made it to Mount
Everest Base Camp. I stayed for almost an hour
celebrating and snapping photos.
We made it back to Gorakshep safely but it was A trek that will change your life.
a reminder to never trek alone. We saw signs
Soon we headed back to Gorakshep to collect
of missing solo trekkers all over the Everest
our remaining luggage and headed back to
region. It may be a popular route, but there are
Periche
always times when you are alone and could
easily run into trouble without being noticed. Even though I was descending, there is still lot
of altitude gain and loss.
The goal of this journey is achieved, but it feels
a little anticlimactic. The thrill of reaching your
destination is over and there is nothing more to
look forward, but there are still so many days
to go. If only I could fly out from here. But alas,
there is a three days descend back to Lukla.

In the end, I made it to Everest Base Camp.

It’s an experience I’ll never forget and highly
recommend it to everyone. The Himalayan
Mountains are the most beautiful and spiritual
place on earth.
 DAY 11 – PERICHE – NAMCHE
BAZAAR (3,440 M)
The trek downwards is easy neither, I felt acute
pain in my legs, each step was a sting on the
knee. On the other hand my breathing was
lot more stable. As I entered oxygen enriched
environment, I felt super energetic and super
charged this day.

We stopped for lunch at Tengboche and

reached Namche around late afternoon staying
at the same lodge on our way up. Tonight, I was
going to have hot water shower after almost 11
days since i left Kathmandu.

DAY 12 – NAMCHE BAZAAR -

LUKLA (2,642 M)
The final descends to Lukla felt fairly easy, I
had set out a target to hop on the last flight
from Lukla to Kathmandu departing at 12pm.
Without taking any unwanted stop we swished
our way back to Lukla. But the last flight to
Kathmandu was canceled due to bad weather.

Having to stay at Lukla tonight, I invited Bishal

to join me to a local restaurant to celebrate the
completion of trek. Expressed my gratitude to
make me feel so safe during the entire trek.

To this gesture, Bishal responding with tears

and gifted me a local scarf and a miniature yak
as a souvenir.

Next morning, we both boarded Sita airline

flight to Kathmandu. On my way back, there
was a rush of emotions running through me..
Dropping me directly to International terminal,
Bishal bid me farewell for my onward journey
back home.
FINAL SUMMARY
The climb to Kalapathar was not long but
relentless. At every few minutes, I had to stop
to catch my precious breath. My lungs were
working harder than ever compensating the
lower oxygen. Every time I started moving,
my heart was pounding high. I pushed myself,
mentally and physically, and just when I
thought its over, there was more to climb! The
only mantra that helped was to keep moving
‘‘Bistari Bistari!’’ One step at a time!

Each day as I climbed more my body had to

deal with lesser oxygen. I’ve not undertaken
any trek involving altitudes as high as EBC.
For the first time, oxygen saturation level in my
blood dipped below 80 and the altitude began
to take toll on me.

The sense of following the footsteps of many

legendary Mountaineers who conquered
Everest was boosting my morale.

Simply because a trekker not steps on Mount

Everest, does not make Trek to Everest Base
Camp a cakewalk in the Himalayas. It was so
tough and challenging that at times I questioned
my decision to come here. But there were also
times when I looked at the serenities that me
speechless. Higher I climbed on this trail, more
was the magnificence and I nodded at every
such place, yes, I made a correct decision! Now
that I made it to the Base Camp, it became one
of the proudest moments in my life.