Updated Giraffe Pattern

Ok folks, here is the updated version of my giraffe pattern. If you have the old pattern
and want to continue using it, click here. If you haven't started yet and want to run
through the new pattern, it continues on below. Thanks again!

Sock Giraffe Pattern

Gauge: 6sts x 9rows = 1 inch
Materials: 36 yards of Yarn 1 (Y1) Undyed DK weight yarn, 80 yards of Yarn 2 (Y2) Self
Striping DK weight yarn, 1 set Size #2 DP needles, 1 12-inch Size #2 Addi Turbo
Needle, 2 skein black DMC floss or 4-6 yards of black sport weight yarn or string,
Polyester Fiber-fill,

Stitch Instructions:
Video Demo for Turkish Cast On.
Turkish Cast On:Tie a slip knot in the yarn, hold the circular needle parallel to the dp
needle with the circular needle on the bottom. Slip the loop of the slip knot onto them,
slide it to the left and pull it just enough to hold it into place. Be sure the yarn to be
worked is hanging downward. Wrap the yarn 16 times to the right from here. Start each
wrap by wrapping toward you over the top of the needles then away from you under the
needles while keeping the circular needle below the DP needle the entire time. This
may sound silly, but if you don't wrap in the right direction you won't get what you need.
You should complete this step with 16 loops on the dp needle and the yarn hanging
down in the front of the needles. If you referred to the video, you’ll see that the first row
is a knitted row. With this pattern you will purl the first row.
Basic Stitch Consolidation instructions
Front Consolidation (fcm): Hold these parallel in your left hand with the working yarn
on the right as if you were going to resume the knitting (The stitches to be worked are
on the front needle and the stitches just worked are on the back needle.) Slip all stitches
onto a third needle in your right hand beginning with the stitch on the back needle and
alternating with the stitches on the front needle. Slip every other stitch until all stitches
are on the needle in your right hand.
Back Consolidation (bcm): Hold these parallel in your left hand with the working yarn
on the right as if you were going to resume the knitting (The stitches to be worked are
on the front needle and the stitches just worked are on the back needle.) Slip all stitches
onto a third needle in your right hand beginning with the stitch on the front needle and
alternating with the stitches on the back needle. Slip every other stitch until all stitches
are on the needle in your right hand.PSSO: pass slipped stitch over.
KRL: (Knit Right Loop ) insert right needle into right loop of stitch just below next
stitch; place it onto left needle and knit it; then work the pattern as instructed.
KLL: (Knit Left Loop) insert left needle into loop of stitch just below stitch just worked;
and knit it: then resume working the pattern KFB: Knit into front of stitch on the left
needle but before removing it from the needle knit into the back. You now have 2
stitches where you originally had one.
Knit encroachment (k enc):sl1 stitch from the left needle to the right needle, lift the
stitch below the next stitch onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped stitch back onto
the left needle and knit the two together.
Purl Encroachment (p enc): sl1 stitch from the left needle to the right needle, lift the
stitch below the next stitch onto the left needle. Slip previously slipped stitch back onto
the left needle and purl the two together.*Weave in loose ends as you go before stuffing
with fiber-fill.
Stitch Consolidation:
.
Legs (make 4): *With Y1 CO 24 stitches. Do not turn, you’ll be knitting in the round by
working the from the first stitch you casted on. Round 1-7 (odd rounds only): knit,
Round 2: (k4, inc 1, k4) 3 times. (27 stitches) Round 4: (k4, inc 1, k5) 3 times, (30
stitches) Round 6: purl Round 8: (k1, k2tog) 10 times (20 stitches), Round 9: (k1,
k2tog, k1) 5 times, (15 stitches) Round 10: k1, (k2tog) 7 times, (8 stitches) cut yarn
leaving a 6 inch tail, and using a tapestry needle thread it through the remaining 8
stitches, pull tight and tie off on the purl side of your work. Do not stuff yet. Turn your
work around so you that you are looking at the knit side and begin working with the cast
on edge. Tie the new working yarn Y2 to the tail left from the cast on. Using the outside
loop of each cast on stitch, pick up 24 stitches around the edge. Rounds 1 & 3: knit,
Round 2: (k3, k2tog, k3) 3 times (21 stitches) Round 4: (k2, k2tog, k3) 3 times (18
stitches) Rounds 5-24: knit (If you prefer not to count rows, you can just k360). Stuff
with fiber-fill and close the arms using the Back Consolidation method (see stitch
instructions), * you should now have all stitches on one needle, turn and p2tog across,
leaving you with 9 stitches. Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come
undone (approximately 6 inches). Cut yarn leaving enough that the stitches don’t come
undone (approximately 6 inches. Transfer all legs to your circular needle as they are
completed with the purl side of the final row facing you. This will be important when you
attach them to the body.

Head: With Y2 and using the Turkish Cast On Method, wrap yarn counter clockwise for
a total of 16 times. Purl the first row (rather than knitting as the video demonstrates),
turn again. Row 1: sl1, k14, (1 st remains unworked) turn, Row 2: sl1, p13, (1 st
remains unworked) turn, Row 3: sl1, k12, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 4: sl1,
p11, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 5: sl1, k10, (3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row
6: sl1, p9,(3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 7: sl1, k8, (4 sts remain unworked) turn,
Row 8: sl1, p7, p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 9: sl1, k8, k enc, (3 sts
remain unworked) turn, Row 10: sl1, p9, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 11:
sl1, k10, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 12: sl1, p11, p enc, (1 sts remain
unworked) turn, Row 13: sl1, k12, k enc, (1 sts remain unworked) turn Row 14: sl1,
p14, (you will not p enc here, because you should be at the end of the row) turn, Row
15: sl1, knit across. You should still have a total of 16 stitches and you will now start
knitting in the round. Slide your circular needle into place and just continue knitting all
stitches. Be sure you are looking at the knit side of your work before you complete this
step. Also make sure you are not using the yarn tail for your working yarn. Now is a
good time to start using your DP needles if you prefer can use two circulars. Once you
knit the stitches along the cast on edge, move the yarn tail to the front of your work. It
will mark the beginning of each round. Rounds 1-5: knit, cut yarn leaving enough to tie
Y1 onto and begin short rows.

Snout: Row 1: (KRL, k1) 8 times, (KLL, k1) 8 times (32 stitches), (begin working short
rows) turn, Row 2: sl1, p30, (1 st remains unworked) turn, Row 3: sl1, k29, (1 st
remains unworked) turn Row 4: sl1, p28, (2 sts remain unworked) turn Row 5: sl1, k27,
(2 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 6: sl1, p26, (3 sts remain unworked) turn, Row 7:
sl1, k25, (3 sts remain unworked) turn Row 8: sl1, p24, (4 sts remain unworked) turn
Row 9: sl1, k23, (4 sts remain unworked) turn Row 10: sl1, p22, (5 sts remain
unworked) turn Row 11: sl1, k21, (5 sts remain unworked) turn Row 12: sl1, p20, (6 sts
remain unworked) turn Row 13: sl1, k19, (6 sts remain unworked) turn Row 14: sl1,
p18, (7 sts remain unworked) turn Row 15: sl1, k17, k enc, (6 sts remain unworked)
turn Row 16: sl1, p18, p enc, (6 sts remain unworked) turn Row 17: sl1, k19, k enc, (5
sts remain unworked) turn Row 18: sl1, p20, p enc, (5 sts remain unworked) turn Row
19: sl1, k21, k enc, (4 sts remain unworked) turn Row 20: sl1, p22, p enc, (4 sts remain
unworked) turn Row 21: sl1, k23, k enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn Row 22: sl1, p24,
p enc, (3 sts remain unworked) turn Row 23: sl1, k25, k enc, (2 sts remain unworked)
turn Row 24: sl1, p26, p enc, (2 sts remain unworked) turn Row 25: sl1, k27, k enc, (1
st remains unworked) turn Row 26: sl1, p28, p enc, (1 st remains unworked) turn Row
27: sl1, k29, k enc, turn, Row 28: sl1, p30, p enc, turn, Row 29: sl1, k31, do not k enc,
do not turn. Cut yarn leaving enough to tie Y2 onto and resume working in the round.
k16 and you should now be at the beginning of each round once again.

Head cont: Round 6: (k2tog tbl) 16 times. k16, (you should 32 stitches total) Rounds 7
& 9: knit Round 8: (k1, k2tog tbl, k1) 4 times, k16, (28 stitches) Round 10: (k1, k2tog
tbl) twice, (k2tog tbl, k1) twice, k16, (24 stitches). You will now be working rounds of the
neck and body.Neck: Rounds 1-20: knit, (you can make up to 24 rounds if you want the
neck slightly longer, but more than that might cause the little guy to tip over too much)
Stuff the neck with fiber fill. Tamper filling until it reaches your desired firmness. Don’t
stuff too full and don’t stuff up to the needles or you will end up with fibers in your
knitting which are difficult to remove.

Body: Knit 16 more stitches. You should now be at the midway point of the back where
you will begin each round from now on. Round 1: (k4, KLL, k4) 3 times (27 stitches)
Round 2: knit Round 3: k5, KRL, k9, KRL, k8, KLL, k5 (30 stitches) Round 4: k6. You
are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches to be worked with the stitches on one
leg so they can be worked together. While holding the body section as if you were going
to continue knitting, pick up the needle containing the legs so that you can see the purl
side of the final row and place it in front of the stitches of the body section that are to be
worked next. Back Consolidate (see instructions above) one leg only. Now where you
would have worked 9 stitches on the body, you have 18. (p2tog) 9 times. Now attach a
second leg in the same manner again (having 18 stitches total where there would have
only been 9), but this time use the front consolidation method (See instructions above).
k6, Rounds 5-17 (odd rounds only): knit, Round 6: k5, KRL, k10, KLL k10, KLL, k5,
(33 stitches) Round 8: k5, KRL, k11, KRL, k12, KLL, k5 (36 stitches) Round 10: k6,
KRL, k12, KLL, k12, KLL, k6 (39 stitches) Round 12: k6, KRL, k13, KRL, k14, KLL, k6
(42 stitches) Round 14: (k7, KRL) twice, k5, KRL, k4, KLL, k5,(KLL, k7) twice (48
stitches) Round 16: (k8, KRL) twice, k6, KRL, k4, KLL, k6,(KLL, k8) twice (54 stitches)
Round 18: (k9, KRL) twice, k6, KRL, k6, KLL, k6,(KLL, k9) twice (60 stitches). Here’s a
good place to switch to your circular needle. Rounds 19-26: knit, Round 27: (k2,
k2tog,) twice, k4, k2tog, k32, k2tog, k4, (k2tog, k2,) twice,(54 stitches) Round 28: knit,
Round 29: k3, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k3 (48
stitches) Round 30: k13. You are now going to consolidate the next 9 stitches to be
worked with the stitches on one leg so they can be worked together. While holding the
body section as if you were going to continue knitting, pick up the needle containing the
legs so that you can see the purl side of the final row and place it in front of the stitches
of the body section that are to be worked next. Back Consolidate (see instructions
above) one leg only. Now where you would have worked 9 stitches on the body, you
have 18, (p2tog) 9 times. k4, and attach a second leg in the same manner again
(having 18 stitches total where there would have only been 9), but this time use the front
consolidation method (See instructions above). k13, Round 31: (k3, k2tog, k3) 6 times.
(42 stitches) Round 32: k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog,
k2 (36 stitches) Round 33: (k2, k2tog, k2) 6 times, (30 stitches), stuff the upper portion
of the body until firm. Round 34: k1, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog,
k4, k2tog, k1 (24 stitches) Round 35: (k1, k2tog, k1) 6 times, (18 stitches) Round 36:
(k1, k2tog,) 6 times (12 stitches) cut yarn leaving a 8 inch tail, and using a tapestry
needle thread it through the all stitches. Stuff more fiber-fill into the body until you are
satisfied with the firmness, pull tight and tie off. You’ll need to be creative with this step
since it’s closed and you can’t work from the inside.

Ear #1: Row 1: With Y1, CO 6, turn, Rows 2-3: knit, turn, Row 4: k3, KLL, k3, turn, (7
stitches), Rows 5-9 (odd rows only): knit, turn, Row 6: k4, KLL, k3, turn, (8 stitches),
Row 8: k4, KLL, k4, turn, (9 stitches), Row 10: k5, KLL, k4, turn, (10 stitches), Rows
11-14: knit, turn, Rows 15-23: sl1, k1, PSSO, first stitch, knit to end. You should now
have 1 stitch left on the needle. Cut yarn leaving 12 inches. Use your tapestry needle to
weave it through the ear towards the bottom. Fold ear in half vertically and stitch the
bottom together. Attach to the top of the head perpendicular to the line that formed
when you worked the encroachment during the head shaping.

Ear #2: Row 1: With Y1, CO 6, turn, Rows 2-3: knit, turn, Row 4: k3, KRL, k3, turn, (7
stitches), Rows 5-9 (odd rows only): knit, turn, Row 6: k3, KRL, k4, turn, (8 stitches),
Row 8: k4, KRL, k4, turn, (9 stitches), Row 10: k4, KRL, k5, turn, (10 stitches), Rows
11-14: knit, turn, Rows 15-23: sl1, k1, PSSO, first stitch, knit to end. You should now
have 1 stitch left on the needle. Cut yarn leaving 12 inches. Use your tapestry needle to
weave it through the ear towards the bottom. Fold ear in half vertically and stitch the
bottom together. Attach to the top of the head perpendicular to the line that formed
when you worked the encroachment during the head shaping.

Horns (make 2): With Y1, CO 4 and knit an I-cord for 24 stitches. The next step
doubles your stitches. KFB in each stitch until you have 8 and then knit all stitches
once. KFB in each stitch again until you have 16 stitches and then knit all stitches once.
Cut yarn leaving a 12-inch tail. Using a tapestry needle, slip each stitch onto the tail.
Pull tight and thread it through all stitches a couple more times pulling tight each time to
be sure to close the hole. Rather than tying off, thread it down through the bulb on top of
the horn, down through the shaft of the horn and out the other end. Use this to attach
the horn to the head at top where you began working the encroachment during the head
shaping. They will be spaced approximately ¾ inch apart and there will be a small
space between the horns and the ears as well. Tie off any remaining ends.

Finishing: For the tail, cut three 12-24 inch strands of yarn, thread them through a
couple of stitches on the back of the giraffe on the row just above where you began
decreasing to finish him off. Braid and tie off so that it looks kind of like a little broom.
Now embroider on the facial features and voila! You now have your very first sock
giraffe. You are free to embellish him any way you wish.

© 2008 Mybootee Boutique