Fabric Cheat Sheet

A quick and comprehensive list of knit fabrics used in apparel sewing

and the best patterns to use with them.

Fabric Weight/Thickness Guide:

Oz per Yard: under 6-7 light weight, 8-10 medium, above 10 heavy
GSM/Grams per Square Meter: 100-150 light weight, 150-200 medium, 200-
400 heavy
Fiber Guide:
Cotton: Breathable Polyester: Warmer, usually Slicker
Rayon: Soft, Drapey Spandex/Lycra: Stretch and Recovery
Nylon: Moisture Wicking, Slick
Stretch Percentage Guide:
 Fabric Cheat Sheet Fabric Cheat Sheet
Jerseys Jerseys
Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P
Content Patterns Content Patterns
Rayon Spandex Can also be labeled Poly, Rayon, Pumpkin Spice Tri Blend Jersey Usually lighter Cotton, Poly, Rayon Both Raglans, Es-
“modal”, usually Spandex Dolman, Cocoon weight, soft drape, sential Tank, Sweet
lighter weight, very Cardigan, Layer soft feel, 2 way Tee, Grandpa Car-
high 4 way stretch, Me Up, Sunshine stretch digan, Cocoon Car-
a soft to touch and Dress, Boundless, digan, Boyfriend
very soft drape, Boyfriend V Neck, V Neck, Henleys,
can be “clingy”, Free Spirit Tank, Pumpkin Spice Dol-
There is also Rayon Straight Palazoos, man, Free Spirit
made from Bam- Slimfit Raglan Tank
boo specifically.
ITY Stands for: Inter- Poly, Spandex Sunshine Dress,
Slub Jersey Lighter weight, not Cotton, Poly Relaxed Raglan, lock Twist Yarn. Boundless Dress,
much stretch, 2 Sweet Tee, Cocoon *This describes Very soft, super Pumpkin Spice Dol-
way stretch only, Cardigan, Grandpa how the yarn/ drapey, nicer/ man, Sweet Tee,
has horizontal lines Cardigan, Henley thread is made pri- dressier look than Slimfit Raglan, Co-
throughout the both Mens and or to being woven jerseys tend to be. coon Cardigan,
fabric, has some Womens into a fabric. Very stretchy with Free Spirit Tank,
drape due to the good recovery. Essential Tank,
lighter weight. Not clingy/smooth Straight Palazoos
and almost slip-
T-shirt Jersey Varies in weight. Cotton Relaxed Raglan,
pery.
Not very stretchy. Mens and women’s
Only 2 way stretch. Henley, Grandpa DTY Stands for: Drawn Poly, Spandex Pumpkin Spice Dol-
Does not have a Cardigan, Joggers Textured Yarn. man, Cocoon Car-
soft drape. (lighterweight might *This describes Very drapey with digan, Layer Me
be more Pajama how the yarn/ great stretch and Up, Sunshine Dress,
feeling), Essential thread is made pri- recovery. Can be Boundless Dress,
Tank or to being woven brushed also. Boyfriend V Neck,
into a fabric. Slimfit Raglan, Free
Burnout Jersey Known for it’s see Cotton, Poly Relaxed Raglan,
Spirit Tank, Straight
through designs Cocoon Cardigan,
Palazoos
that are “burnt Boyfriend V Neck,
out” of the fabric. Pumpkin Spice Dol- Cotton Spandex Varies in weight, Cotton, Spandex Essential Tank,
It is sheer through man good stretch, Layer Me Up, Peg
the designs. Light- 4 way stretch, Legs, Sunshine
er weight, 2 way breathable, good Dress, Pirate Pen-
stretch. recovery, not cil Skirt, Grandpa
much drape. Cardigan, Joggers,
Tissue Jersey Known for being Varies Relaxed Raglan,
*Lycra is a brand Sweetheart Dress,
exetremely light- Pumpkin Spice Dol-
name of Spandex. Neckbands/Cuffs/
weight, usually semi man, Cardigan
Yoga bands,
-sheer
 Fabric Cheat Sheet Fabric Cheat Sheet
Softies Moisture Wicking
Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P
Content Patterns Content Patterns
Brushed Poly Brushed mean- Poly, Spandex Peg Legs, Layer Me Swim Used in swimwear Nylon, Spandex Siren Swim Top,
ing feels soft on 1 Up, Grandpa Car- and sometimes Hello Sailor Bot-
(single brushed) or digan, Boyfriend athletic wear for -There is also Poly, toms, Peg Legs
both sides (double V Neck, Slimfit it’s moisture wick- Spandex swim-
brushed). Usu- Raglan, Sweet Tee, ing abilties, high wear, I prefer Ny-
ally thinner, has a Relaxed Raglan, stretch, great re- lon personally :)
moderate drape, Henley covery, smooth/
very stretchy with slippery to touch
4 way stretch and
Performance Knit Usually used in Poly, Spandex- Peg Legs
good recovery.
athletic wear, mois- sometimes Nylon Any top you’d like
Loose Weave Very soft, soft- Varies Cocoon Cardigan, ture wichking, high to use as a work-
Sweater Knit er drape, bigger Grandpa Cardigan, stretch and good out top!
holes between the Carefree Cardi- recovery Boyfriend V Neck,
knitting, usually has gan, Pumpkin Spice Essential Tank, Re-
good stretch. Dolman, Relaxed laxed Raglan
Raglan
Pique Weight is usally Poly, Spandex Joggers, Straight
Sweater Knit like Soft, not see Varies Almost anything! lighter medium. It Palazoos, Both Rag-
Hacci through, usually 2 Wouldn’t recom- has a waffle tex- lans, Essential Tank,
way stretch but mend for pants. ture and is mois- Henley, Boyfriend
some have 4 ture wicking, great V Neck
for looser athletic
Stretch Velvet Super soft front, Poly, Spandex Almost anything,
wear.
kint backing, good sometimes not
2 way stretch, sta- enough stretch for Tricot Usually very light- Poly, Spandex Siren Swim Top,
ble Pegs or Layer Me weight and used Hello Sailor Bot-
Up. for lining, but can -Higher Spandex toms, Peg Legs,
be main fabric. content will be Tops for athletic
Velour Super soft front, 4 Poly, Spandex Almost anything,
Smooth, slippery, more like com- wear.
way stretch, good sometimes not
moisture wicking. 4 pression wear.
recovery, moder- enough stretch for
way stretch. Some-
ate drape Pegs or Layer Me
times can be UV
Up.
protective. Swim/
Athletic wear.
 Fabric Cheat Sheet Fabric Cheat Sheet
Double Knits Cozies
Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P
Content Patterns Content Patterns
Scuba/Techno Soft, smooth, al- Poly, Spandex Sweetheart Dress, Stretch French Has good horixon- Usually has Rayon Both Raglans,
most spongey Pirate Pencial Skirt, Terry tal stretch, some and Spandex in the Straight Palazoos,
feeling, good re- Joggers, Carefree vertical, has loops blend Joggers, All Car-
covery, more sta- Cardigan on the backside digans, Boundless
ble but has good with a smooth Dress, Sweetheart
stretch front, warmer, Dress
some drape
Liverpool Thicker, textured Poly, Spandex Sweetheart Dress,
on front and Pirate Pencil Skirt, Cotton French Stable, not much Cotton Joggers, Relaxed
smooth on back, Joggers Carefree Terry stretch, loops on Raglan, Pirate
stable knit with Cardigan, SOS back and smooth Playground Pants,
moderate 2 way Pants on front, warmer Carefree Cardigan
stretch
Sweatshirt Very stable, not Cotton Joggers, Relaxed
Ponte Roma Usually a thicker Poly, Rayon, Pirate Pencil Skirt, much stretch, Raglan, Pirate
knit, more stable, Spandex SOS Pants, Sweet- brushed on inside Playground Pants,
has little drape. heart Dress, and smooth on Carefree Cardigan
Grandpa Cardigan, front, warmer
Carefree Car- and thicker
dican, Joggers,
Interlock Usually thicker, not Cotton Relaxed Raglan,
Straight Palazoos,
much stretch, poor Henleys, Boyfriend
Relaxed Raglan
recovery, more V Neck, I like it for
Fukuro Thicker, more sta- Poly, Cotton, Sweetheart Dress, stable kid’s tees.
ble, textured, 2 Spandex Pirate Pencil Skirt,
Thermal Also labeled “waf- Varies Henleys, Slimfit
way stretch Joggers, Care-
fle knit” some- Raglan, Layer Me
free Cardigan, SOS
times, think “long Up, Grandpa Car-
Pants, Relaxed Rag-
johns” fabric, tex- digan
lan
tured- like a ribbed
Stretch Jacquard Thicker, more sta- Poly, Spandex Sweetheart Dress, knit weight, stretch
ble, 2 way strech Pirate Pencil Skirt, can vary a lot.
Joggers, SOS
Fleece Thick, 2 way Poly Carefree Cardi-
Pants, Carefree
stretch, very soft, gan, Relaxed Rag-
Cardican, Grandpa
warm, stable lan, Joggers, Pirate
Cardigan, Relaxed
Playground Pants
Raglan

Wool Knit Varies in weights, Wool- other fiber All Cardigans, both
weave, drape and content varies. Raglans, Henley,
stretch (usually 4 Some have nylon, Boundless Dress,
way). Warm. acrylic, spandex, Boyfriend V Neck,
poly Both Dolmans
 Fabric Cheat Sheet
Others
Fabric Type Description Usual Fiber Best P4P
Content Patterns
Silk Jersey Soft, usually has a Silk Free Spirit Tank,
soft sheen, can be Pumpkin Spice
2 or 4 way stretch, Dolman, Cocoon
doesn’t have good Cardigan, Grand-
recovery, very pa Cardigan, Re-
soft drape, semi- laxed Raglan, Lined
sheer and light- Boundless or Sun-
weight shine Dress
Lurex Sparkley, soft, Lurex, Rayon, Poly Almost anything!
soft drape, good Wouldn’t recom-
stretch, almost like mend for pants.
a sweater knit
Ribbed Knit weight varies, usu- Varies Layer Me Up, Es-
ally great stretch, 2 sential Tank, Sweet
way stretch Tee, Slimfit Raglan,
Neckbands/Cuffs/
Yoga Bands
Ribbing Ribbed knit that has Cotton, Spandex Layer Me Up, Peg
spandex, usually Legs, Neckbands/
sold in the round/ Cuffs/Yoga bands
in a tube, great
stretch and recov-
ery.
Spun Poly Jersey Sometimes called Poly Either Raglan,
“Poly Cotton Feel”. Cardigans, Sweet
Warmer, matte fin- Tee, Henley,
ish 2 way stretch,
not great recov-
ery.