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Volume 97 Page 25
Abstract
The Government of Bangladesh has indentified the leather sector as one with considerable growth
and investment potential ranked fifth in the export earning sector. Currently Bangladesh produces and
exports quality bovine and ovine, caprine (buffalo and cow; sheep and goat) leathers that have a good
international reputation for fine textured skins. However, the entire leather sector meets only 0.5% of
the world’s leather trade worth US$75 billion. There are about 113 tanneries in Bangladesh that
produce 180 million square feet of hides and skins per year. In addition there are about 30 modern shoe
manufacturing plants engaged in the production of high-quality footwear, with over 2500 smaller
footwear manufacturers also present in the sector. There are around 100 small-to-medium leather
goods manufacturers, and a small number of niche larger manufacturers. The sector directly employs
approximately 558 000 people.
Most of the tanneries do not have proper effluent plants and generate 20 000m3 tannery effluent and
232 tonnes solid waste per day. Tannery liquid and solid wastes are a potential pollutant but also have
a potential value. Specific technologies to convert wastes are required. These vary from crude and
simple to highly sophisticated and complex.
A proposed new leather park is expected to bring a clear transformation to the leather industry with
a marked increase in production, product diversification and new product lines with increased
sustainability of the sector. Sustainable and cleaner production will be a key issue for the development
without placing burdens on the environment.
500
450
US$ US$
400
350
in Million
300
Millions
250
Amount
200
150
100
50
0
2001- 2002- 2003- 2004- 2005- 2006- 2007- 2008- 2009- 2010- (July to
2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 March)
YEAR
Year
Leather Footwear Leather Products Total
Figure1. Bangladesh's export of leather, footwear and leather goods.6
25
to crust and finished leather commenced in the 1990s 1.3 Livestock in Bangladesh
following the ban on export of wet-blue hides from
Bangladesh has a fairly large livestock population to
Bangladesh.2
support a strong and growing tanning industry. Table II
1.2 Tanning in Bangladesh shows that cow hides account for 56% of the
production, goat skins for 30% and buffalo makes up
A number of tanneries took the opportunity in 1990s the rest.5 The current output in Bangladesh is about 200
for the production of crust and finished leather. There million sq.ft. of leather annually. Apart from bovine
are reportedly around 220 tanneries in Bangladesh but, hides, buffalo, goat and sheep; a good quantity of
in fact, only 113 tanneries are in effective operation, out kangaroo hides (pickled condition/wet-blue) are
of these 20 units are reported to be fairly large (7 units imported from Australia and finished in Bangladesh,
very large), around 45 units are considered of medium shoes are made of this kangaroo leather for export,
size and around 48 units are considered small groups mostly to Japan. Some ostrich leather is also imported
as detailed in Table I.3 105 of the tanneries are from Australia for production of high quality and high
positioned arbitrarily in the Hazaribagh area in Dhaka priced bags and wallets for re-export to Australia.
where 84 per cent of the total supply of hides and skins
are processed in a highly congested area of only 29 1.4 Leather export performance
hectares of land as in Figure 2.4
The contribution of the leather industry to the
Bangladesh economy was about US$500 million,
accounting for 3% of country’s exports6 in 2010-11.
Recent export trends indicate that the footwear sector
(value added merchandise), is growing the fastest.
Figure 1 shows that the performance with regard to
footwear is increasing substantially. Further progress
in this regard is expected in the years to come.
Currently there are about 30 mechanized footwear
companies in the country, most produce leather
footwear for global export. A large number of semi-
mechanized and non-mechanized footwear units are
also operating for the domestic market. Some 5 or 6
companies produce quality leather goods which are
regularly exported in appreciable volume. Export
performance can be anticipated to increase in the next
five years with at least 12-15% growth in turnover per
annum.
In the next two years the existing footwear factories
are likely to export more shoes. The new capacity
[expanded and new factories] that will come on stream
from late 2012 will give increased growth. The Export
Processing Zones (throughout Bangladesh) at present
have 18 shoe and leather goods factories and there are
Figure 2. Bangladesh (inset – tannery locations). at least seven large factories under construction. The
TABLE I
Structure of tanneries in Bangladesh3
Number of Typical annual production Total installed Total actual Share of actual
tanneries capacity/tannery capacity/ annum for production/annum for production (%)
all tanneries all tanneries
7 >5 million sq.ft 40 million sq.ft 30 million sq.ft 17
13 2–5 million sq.ft 60 million sq.ft 52 million sq.ft 29
45 <2 million sq.ft 70 million sq.ft 60 million sq.ft 33
48 <1 million sq.ft 60 million sq.ft 38 million sq.ft 21
Total: 113 230 million sq.ft 180 million sq.ft 100
TABLE II
Livestock population for leather industry5
Sl. No Category Annual kill in Average Total annual production Average area
millions weight/piece in kg in tonnes per piece (sq.ft)
1 Cow/calf 4.00 12 48 000 (56%) 20-22
2 Goat/sheep 15.00 1.5–2 26 000 (30%) 3.75
3 Buffalo 0.50 20-25 11 000 (14%) 32-35
26
factories under construction include the Korean Annually about 85 000 tonnes of raw material are
company ‘Young ones’ footwear complex which will be processed in Bangladesh. The estimated quantity of
the largest in Asia. tanned and untanned waste from the processing of one
The leather products sub-sector is ideal for youth, tonne of salted hides/skins according to various authors
women and micro entrepreneurial start-up businesses, and Bangladeshi leather industries is shown in Table III.9,11
based on the low costs and capital investment. It can
also provide the opportunity to gain experience to 3. CASE STUDY PROJECT: UNIDO – RE-TIE
transfer to footwear or other creative sub sectors. BANGLADESH
1.5 Professional Associations The reduction of environmental threats and increase
of the export portential of Bangladeshi leather products
There are large number of associations such as
(Re-Tie Bangladesh) is a project co-funded by the
Bangladesh Finished Leather, Leather Goods and
European Commission. This is under the SWITCH Asia
Footwear Exporters Association (BFLLFEA) which
programme and implemented by the project partners:
operates with over 80 members. The Bangladesh
SEQUA (lead partner), BFZ, BFLLFEA, BTA, DCCI and
Tanners Association (BTA) with over 150 members
UNIDO for three years with total budget €2 071 000
engages in export trade. The Institute of Leather
(EU contribution 90%).
Engineering and Technology (ILET) is the only
The overall objective of Re-Tie Bangladesh is the
educational institution in Bangladesh covering human
provision of employment and income-opportunities for
resources development in the field and new technology.
Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) in the leather
sector in Bangladesh, the SMEs to work economically
2. CURRENT METHODS OF DISPOSAL OF and ecologically more sustainably using advanced
SOLID AND LIQUID WASTE FROM THE
technologies and practices. Table IV shows the project
BANGLADESH LEATHER INDUSTRY
activities of Re-Tie Bangladesh.12
Only 255kg of finished leather (grain and embossed The objectives of Re-Tie Bangladesh are:
split) is obtained for every 1000kg wet salted hides I. More efficient use of natural resources and
processed, i.e. just 25.5% of the raw material becomes significantly reduce environmental pollution and
finished leather.7 Around 40m3 of water (process and waste in the Bangladeshi leather sector;
technical water) is required for this and out of 452kg of II. More efficient use of energy and implementation of
process chemicals used only 72kg are retained in and measures for consumption reduction;
on the leather thus, 380kg are wasted and discharged III. Improved occupational safety and health and other
in various forms.8,9 international standards to enhance the exportability
The estimated amount of tannery effluent is 20 000 of Bangladeshi leather products;
m3/day in the Hazaribagh area. All wastewater IV. A strengthened institutional structure and an
generated is discharged untreated to the sewer passing outreach to SMEs for the promotion of sustainable
through the area leading to the Buruganga River, the production in Bangladeshi tannery/leather industry.
main river through Dhaka which is shown in Figure 2.4
The sewers in the area do overflow causing health
4. CASE STUDY OF RECENT RESEARCH
problems. Hazardous wastes pollute the surrounding
environment and, finally reaching the river Buriganga,
4.1 Materials and methods
destroy its ecosystem and make its water unusable.
The river is now on the verge of ecosystem destruction To further develop an insight into tannery pollution a
and is a major health hazard. chemical analysis was carried out in four tanneries in
A substantial quantity of the solid waste generated Dhaka (A, B, C, D) to measure the effluent characteristics
by tanneries is dumped by the roadside in Hazaribagh, of the composite waste (raw to finish) water from
so the environmental challenges are significant and tanneries with and without effluent treatment plant. The
present a danger to human health. The living conditions results are shown in Tables V and VI respectively.
in those areas are far from satisfactory.2,10 Composite wastewater (waste streams from different
TABLE III
Solid waste generated (kg) during processing of 1 tonne hides and skins9,11
27
TABLE IV
Project activities: Re-Tie Bangladesh12
process steps are combined, homogenized and treated 150gms of KI and dissolve it in about 150ml of distilled
as a single sample) was collected by composite water. Add this solution to the caustic solution prepared
sampling and collected in sealed bottles from the earlier. Dissolve 10gm of sodium azide in 40ml distilled
selected tanneries at different sampling points and water and add it to the alkali-iodide mixture, with
stored at approximately 4°C until analysed. This was constant stirring. Make up the volume to one litre.
carried out within 24 hours to ensure that the oxygen MnSO4 + NaOH = Mn(OH)2 + Na2SO4 then add H2SO4
concentration remained constant to inhibit growth of Mn(OH)2 + O(DO) + H2O = Mn(OH)4
micro-organisms prior to analysis. Mn(OH)4 + 2HI = Mn(OH)2 + I2 (equal to DO) + H2O
Biochemical Oxygen Demand (BOD5) was then titration
determined by DIN 38409T51 (Simple Determination I2 + Na2S2O3 = Na2 S4O6 + 2NaI
of BOD5) by using an Oxitop measuring system,
inductive stirring system and a thermostatic incubator Total Dissolved Solid (TDS) was measured using a
(temperature 20°C ± 1°C). The sample was incubated meter (Hanna Instruments Ltd, Italy, model No.HI
within 48 hours of sampling. 96302,DiST®2) and the pH was determined by SLC –
The pH of the sample was adjusted for analysis. The 13 method13 (Determination of pH value and difference
desired pH for this procedure is between 6.5 and 7.5 so figure of an aqueous extract) using a pH meter
that bacterial growth is possible. After five days the (ORION, Model 370).
value was converted into the BOD5 value with the Total chromium (method EN-7 – the chromium is
following equation: Value x Factor = BOD5 (mg/l) chelated and extracted into methyl isobutyl ketone) and
Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) was determined sodium (method-EN-4) were determined using Atomic
by DIN 38401(Method: H 41.1,) using the Open Reflux Absorption Spectrometry (AAS) using Perkin Elmer
Method with heating at 148 ± 3°C; all chemicals were AAnalyst 300 model.
of analytical grade (sulphuric acid, = 1.84g/ml; standard
4.2 Results and discussion
potassium dichromate solution (K2Cr2O7), ferrous
ammonium sulphate (FAS), mercuric sulphate, silver COD, BOD5, TDS, DO, total chromium, sodium
sulphate, ferroin indicator solution). The sample is values have been used as indicators of effluent quality.
refluxed with a known excess of potassium dichromate The effluent found was blackish/dark brown/dark grey
in presence of concentrated sulphuric acid for 2.5 hours and heavily turbid with a bad smell. It contained a high
and the excess dichromate is back titrated with ferrous concentration of solids (mainly organic matter) that
ammonium sulphate. The amount of oxidisable matter, precipitated with inorganic coagulants – these are
measured as oxygen equivalents, is proportional to the deposited when the flow rate is lowered. It may be
potassium dichromate consumed. assumed that the drains become filled with such
Dissolved Oxygen (DO) was estimated using the matters. Table V shows a very high concentration of
Iodometric method with 0.025(N) Na2S2O3, MnSO4, chromium (average 1012mg/l) and sodium (average
H2SO4 and sodium azide – dissolved oxygen present 824mg/l).
in the sample is quantitatively converted to an It can be seen that at an elevated pH, the chromium
equivalent amount of manganese(IV) hydroxide, which ion coagulates with sulphide and settles as sediment
liberates iodine from iodide upon acidification; this is in the drain.14 Wastewater from different tanneries
titrated using standard thiosulfate solution. accumulates in the drain and the overflow runs onto
Method: Alkali iodide-azide solution: Dissolve agricultural fields on the opposite side of the Dhaka
500gms of sodium hydroxide in about 800ml distilled flood protection dam. It has been reported that
water and cool to room temperature. Weigh separately discharge of tannery wastes into surface waters like
28
channels and tanks has increased their salinity. Pre- the equalization tank is transferred into the flash mixer
treatment techniques such as chrome recovery and tank. Lime, alum and polymer are added according to
sulphide oxidation are recommended in order to avoid the proper requirements for sedimentation of sludge.
the detrimental effect. The effluent from the flash mixer then transfers to the
It has been suggested that waste streams are clariflocculator (primary clarifier) for settling of the
segregated according to their characteristics to avoid solids. Inorganic substances (chromium) are
possible safety risks. DO results (nil) indicate the precipitated here (Fig. 3).
stabilization action (degradation of organic matter). COD The settled solids are then transferred to the sludge
(average 3407mg/l) and BOD5 (average 1388mg/l) thickener. The overflow of the clariflocculator is
values show the presence of a very high concentration transferred to the aeration tank for biological treatment.
of dissolved organic matter in the wastewater. These The target of biological treatment is to convert soluble
values indicate depletion of oxygen from the receiving organic matter and non-soluble colloidal solids into inert
water. The high oxygen demand of tannery wastes is solids and other simple end products. Nutrients such
due to proteins, fatty matter, tannins and inorganic as urea and diammonium phosphate (DAP) are added
pollutants present in significant quantities. High pH, to support the micro-organisms. Oxygen is added by a
excessive alkalinity (average 824mg/l), very high fixed aerator. After biological treatment the overflow
dissolved solids (average 7100mg/l) are injurious to fish from the aeration tank (Fig. 3) is transferred to the
and other aquatic life. Their presence will affect physical, secondary clarifier. The biological mass is then
chemical and biological characteristics and can make separated and settled in the lower part of the clarifier.
the receiving water less acceptable for drinking, If the bio mass is above 25% it will be transferred to the
industrial and agricultural purposes. However Table VI sludge thickener. The overflow from the secondary
shows that the values for the treated effluent (except clarifier is then transferred into a tube settler through a
Cr/Na) are within the limits as set by the Department of baffled channel.
Environment15 standards of Bangladesh. The overflow from the tube settler is collected in
sump-I and sludge is transferred to the sludge
5. CASE STUDY: EFFLUENT TREATMENT thickener. The treated water is pumped through a
PLANT (ETP) pressure sand filter to remove any fine solids that may
have been carried over with the water. The water from
The Effluent Treatment Plant changes pollutants into the sand filter is collected in sump-II (Fig. 3). Lightly
something which is environmentally more acceptable coloured water passes through the activated carbon
and is designed to meet a specific need because of filter and is then discharged into inland water. Sludge
variation of effluent from tannery to tannery and from from the sludge drying beds goes to landfill within the
process to process. Figure 3 shows the structure of one factory area and in the rainy season, a centrifuge is
ETP plant in Bangladesh which has a multi-stage used to form the sludge cake. There are about 1095
process to purify wastewater before it is discharged. individual companies in Bangladesh and in about 709
The purpose is to reduce or remove organic matter, of them ETP is required for pollution containment but,
solids, nutrients, chromium and other pollutants. The only 186 ETPs are in operation.15
raw effluents emanating from the process section (wet-
blue-finish) pass through the screen chamber to the
equalization tank. The suspended solids are separated 6. CASE STUDY: IMPACTS ON COMMUNITY
from wastewater by the bar screen. The equalization OF POLLUTION
tank is equipped with three ejectors to homogenize the About 0.5 million residents of the Bangladesh capital,
waste and to prevent settling of solids. The effluent from Dhaka are at risk of serious health issues due to
TABLE V
Tannery without an effluent treatment plant (raw to finishing; composite effluent)
29
Figure 3. Simplified flow diagram for an effluent treatment plant in Bangladesh.
30
TABLE VII
Categories of newly developed industrial plots17
31
10. Training Institute for Chemical Industries (TICI), Report on 14. Avila-P´erez, P., Balc´azar, M., Zaraz´ua-Ortega, G. et al., The
Existing Environmental Status of Hazaribagh. 2005, Dhaka, Science of the Total Environment. 1999, 234, 185.
Bangladesh. 15. Department of Environment (DOE), 2011, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
11. Alexander, K. T. W., Corning, D. R., Cory, N. J. et al., J. Soc. 16. Gain, P., Moral, S., Leather Industry: Environmental Pollution and
Leather Technol. Chem., 1992, 76, 17. Mitigation measures. SEHD, 1998, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
12. European Union (EU), Re-Tie Bangladesh: Reduction of 17. Ministry of Industries (MOI), Masterplan for relocation of
environmental threats and increase of exportability of tanneries from Hazaribagh to Savar. 2005, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Bangladeshi leather products, Switchasia Project. 2010, Dhaka, 18. Bangladesh Engineering and Technological Services Ltd.
Bangladesh. (BETS), Environment Impact assessment (EIA) for the Central
13. Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists (SLC), Official Effluent Plant (CETP) and other industrial installations in the
Methods of Analysis. 2000. proposed tannery estate. 2005, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
32