˜YAM Anarchy Division˜

Presents

A Totally Stress’D Out Production

Guide To Getting High Preformace Car Audio Systems For Free

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By: Traumantic Stress [YAM]

CHAPTER ONE: Whats Worth It?

So.. You decided that you want/need a high preformace car audio
system? If you just want a system and don’t know what is good/bad then
you should read on. When you want to rip off a good, booming, high
preformance car audio system then you should start with those stupid losers
that are always showing their systems off. Some people are stupid enough
to put those "Brand Name" stickers on their back/front windows. Such names as
Rockford & Fosgate, HiFonics, Blaupunkt, Alpine, Denon & Clarion distribute
such stickers and MANY people have them.. It is sorta like window shopping!
However, many people are also smarter and don’t put those stickers on.
Another way to find good systems is go "Sample Shopping". This is easy, you
even get to hear what your system will soundlike. Just wait for booming
cars to go by and find one that is real good. Get in your car and follow the
guy. It could take all night but it will be well worth it. When he finally
parks you can take the incentive to snatch it up. There are also many other
ways to find systems. Look for "Supped Up" cars with very heavy dark tints.
When I say "Supped Up" I mean like Skirts and Tints and Rims etc. You know
what I mean. There are many brand names to go for. One thing I can’t stress
enough it DON’T WASTE YOUR TIME ON SHIT! In other words.. Just cause you see
a 15" Sub Woofer in the back it doesn’t mean that it is good. Look for brand
names. For instance here is a list of Good and Poor (Flea Market Shit)!

GOOD POOR
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Rockford & Fosgate (The Punch) Pyramid
Cerwin Vega (For Mega Bass) The Crunch
Alpine AudioTek
Clarion Realistic (HAHAHAHAHAA)
Denon MEI
HiFonics Craig
Blaupunkt Learjet
PPi (Precision Power Inc) AudioVox
Redline ElectroBase (Ok but not real great)
AVI Pyle (Cheap Imitation Of Rockfords)
Kicker Concord
Pheonix Gold

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So as you can see these are the more expensive/powerful/populour brands.

Always look at the condition and model numbers and base your BREAKIN on
those. Of cource Amps are generally the most expensive, then the head units,
then the CD-Changer (If Equiped) then the speakers. Don’t forget the speakers
cause they are also worth quite a bit for example an AVI 8" (1) in a AVI
box (glass on one side) runs for about 1100$ Canadian so as you can see, it
it worth it. Also don’t look for the size as an 8" Cerwin Vega could kick
more bass (115db) than four (4) Pyramid 15" Pro’s (114db)! So just look for
the brand names.

CHAPTER 2: Alarms/AntiTheft Devices

Before you bust in after that booming system take note of any stickers
on the windows or any abnormal "Clicks" or "Beeps" or if some voice starts
yelling at you. Stickers could read "Car Protected By Alarm" or "Removable
Head Unit" or "Code Protected Deck". If this is the case proceed if your up
to it. If the system is worth the hastle. Just because the head unit (deck)
is code protected/removeable it doesn’t mean that the rest of the system isn’t
easy to take (ie. Amp/Speakers/CD-Changer)! If the car is equiped with an
alarm system first take note of what type of system it is. Look inside the
car for a blinking light (usually red or green). If it is blinking smack the
car. See what happens. If an alarm sounds run or pretend that you accidently
hit it and come back later and continue with these steps. If the light blinks
faster, turns off or stops blinking and just stays on, get the hell outta
there cause that means that the alarm is possibly a hi-tech silent alarm with
a direct lead to the cars owner or possibly the law enforcement agency. IF
there is no light then there a few ways to overcome an alarm. If you have a
friend or two it is ALOT easier. The first way is the way with a friend.
Please remember that you shouldn’t try this one infront of the guys home. It
is made for parking lots or underground garages. Ok.. have one friend stand
at the front of the car with a pair of wire cutters in one hand and a hammer
in the other (just to be safe). Ok.. have the second guy break into the car
by using any method (breaking windows, lock picking, screwdriver under hood,
jimmy or any thing else that works). If there is an alarm it will go off!
Be quick and pop the hood. The lever is on the left hand side under the
steering wheel usually. Have your friend open the hood FAST! He should take a
QUICK glance at what is in there. If it is a SHIT alarm just rip the wires
leading to the horn (usually on the right side close to the front of the
engine). If it more elaborate there are a few things. If your quick disconect
the positive lead on the battery (on the right side). That should cut off the
power to the alarm. Another way is to smash the horn with the hammer as it
is usually a cheap plastic cone-ish speaker. Please ONLY allow yourself
between 5-7 seconds of alarm because 99% of all people do not do anything
when a car alarm sounds for about 10 seconds as they figure that the owner
just forgot to disactivate it or a bird shit on it. If you can’t cut it off
run like hell and consider it ABORTED! Another way to get it disactivated it
to go under the car. If it is a under 200$ alarm then there might be wires
running just under the doors. Cut em! There might also be whats known as
"Door Censors" that only make the alarm go off if a door is opened. You can
tell if you rock the car and no alarm sounds. Just go though a window and
don’t touch a door.

CHAPTER 3: Where’s the goods!

Ok. Your in.. Now be fast and grab everything that is worth it. Go
directly for the amp. It is usually in the trunk and it usually mounted using
a standard "Phillips (Star)" screw. Make sure you unscrew it and take ALL
the wires or connections you can find. Never rip anything out cause you will
probably lose the wires you need for it to operate and then its worthless.
Once you have it go for the speakers. They are ALSO mounted either in a box
(if so take the box) or freeair (behind seats or on the walls of the trunk)!
These will also be Phillips screws (usually standard!) and then take em!
Don’t usually bother with the speakers inside the car as their usually no
bigger than 8". IF and ONLY IF you have time go fer the deck. This is the
hardest of all and if you can’t get it fast don’t bother. You will need to
rip the sleeve out. Use a slot (flat) screwdriver and wedge it between the
opening and the deck.. Pry.. pull.. rip it out but remember to get the patch
cords (a platic white box with 5-10 wires comming out) cause if you don’t
get it you won’t get the deck to work rite unless you are an audio expert.
Get the fuck outta there with your new system!

CHAPTER 4: Ok.. Way to GO!

Ok. Now you have your system. A few things. Always remove the serial
numbers and mess it up (add lots of scratches and disfigure it) so that it
looks alot different than the other guys. Never go back/associate with that
person and whatever you do, keep it to yourself, don’t brag and never take it
to a stereo shop. Enjoy your system!

Note: YAM/Traumantic Stress are not responsible for ANY thing that could
and might happen to you by use of this Text file. This could be ilegal and
should only be followed at your own risk!

YAM Anarchy Division (tm)

Youths Against McAfee

Members: Natas Kaupas, Mr. Mike, Napoleon, Blackmagic, Traumantic Stress,

Gambit, Death Angel, & Many More!

"Look for Evolution ][ comming to a great board near you!"

This was written By: Traumantic Stress [4i6] on o9/o3/92 (at 11:54pm)