Professional Documents
Culture Documents
digitalization
Event Type: Q4 2018 Earnings Call
Date: 2019-03-15
Lorenzo Bertelli
Today, I would like to discuss how the continuous investment in our brands is also reflected in a series of
freshened and planned strategic step to ensure the Prada group develops a best-in-class digital platform that
reach all consumer interaction points without losing touch with our brand DNA.
In terms of digital retail, we added new mobile functionalities to the Clientsphere in-store like wish list, stock
on hand, made-to-order, sales analysis and newsletter.
Retail plan
Optimization of global retail portfolio ongoing
-25 store openings and 23 closures
-140 renovation and relocation projects
During the period, we opened 17 stores and closed 13 stores, in line with our strategy of optimizing our store
network.
2017 Overview
Pop-up stores building excitement and customer engagement
Roll-out of 75 pop-up stores in 2017
to target new customer segments through
unconventional selling propositions
•
Complemented by engaging social media campaigns to
drive discussion among key influencers and customer
Key benefits:
•
Widen the client base: more than 50% of purchases
made by new customers
•
Strong brand statement translated into a wider
brand awareness
•
Communicate product novelties in an innovative
way
•
Drive traffic/sales to neighbouring stores benefitting
from the buzz generated by the pop-up
Communaholics
Event Type: Q4 2018 Earnings Call
Date: 2019-03-15
We are also launching new digital channels, allowing us better reach, younger and more local audience. For
example, Twitter in Japan both for Prada and Miu Miu in 2018, Kakao Talk in 2019, and the launch of Prada
Spotify official profile this year to expand the product connection with the music world
Investment in technology have been strengthened in order to improve the merchandising planning, increasing
particularly the accuracy of buying, replenishment and forecasting. Better customer service, thanks to the
launch, 2018, of five regional hubs in Milan, New York, Turkey, Shanghai and Hong Kong. In terms of
CRM, we set up a data science team in 2018, and we are now implementing a data strategy through business
analytics will enable us to better understand (00:21:58) for adhoc campaign, and at the same time we are
increasing integration of data from stores and social media.
Opportunistic
Event Type: Q4 2018 Earnings Call
Date: 2019-03-15
So about the digital budget, I can see that the split is generally between 50% digital and 50% other
communication. We are increasing the general budget of the communication inside the group generally
because, for sure, we have to support it. We think that generally, America's Cup as a sport activity is very
easy to be used to create digital assets, is very like young, and can reach, I think, a younger audience than
usually we reach with the Prada.
Activist
The Independent
Prada launches diversity council led by Ava DuVernay amid blackface controversy
The Diversity and Inclusion Advisory Council, aims to "elevate voices of colour within the company and the
fashion industry at large". Prada says the council will guide the company towards a "more inclusive and
diverse future" and advise the brand as it "invests in and expands opportunities for young students of colour
in the fashion industry".
The Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday (London)
FASHION chain Prada will stop selling furs, in a major victory for animal rights campaigners.
It will ditch them from its 2020 summer collection onwards following talks with the Fur Free Alliance group.
It launched a campaign against Prada last year, and said: The decision to go fur-free is consistent with the
new concept of ethical luxury, and meets the expectations of new consumers who are more careful in
choosing sustainable products that respect the environment and animals.'
Career focused
Together, the board will partner with universities and organisations to sponsor scholarships and training
across Prada's global offices in a bid to "close the inclusion gap in the fashion industry
KERING
2018 report
luxury consumption and patterns are becoming more
value sensitive and digital-oriented and leaning
increasingly toward innovation and newness, especially
as younger people enter the market and more particularly
generations Y and Z (born after 1980 and around 2000,
respectively);
E- commerce
Online sales of luxury goods reached a new record of around
€27 billion in 2018 (up 22% at comparable exchange rates),
representing about 10% of total worldwide personal
luxury goods sales. This includes sales made through
brand and department store websites and by e- tailers.
Online is the fastest growing channel globally, driven by
Asia and by a younger cohort of generation Y and
generation Z consumers. Within e- commerce, brands and
e- tailers are the top per
Millennials continued to fuel the industry’s
growth, as luxury goods purchased by generations Y and
Z represented at least a third of the market in value terms
(based on Bain & Company data).
Market outlook
Career focused
34,795 employees as of December 31, 2018, 62.88% of
whom are women;
•92.50% of employees on permanent contracts;
•50.49% of Group managers are women;
•8.21% of permanent employees work part time;
•36.09 years is the average age of permanent employees;
•5.3 years is the average length of service of permanentemployees;
•474 workers with disabilities;
•431,051 hours of training (excluding safety training), or 20,197 employees trained;
•12,266 permanent employees hired;
•255,769 metric tons of CO2 attributable to energy consumption (21.1%) and transportation
(78.9%);
•67.1% of electricity consumed is generated using renewable resources;
•Kering published its 2017 EP&L for the first time as a pure player in Luxury, reporting a 10%
reduction in the intensity of environmental impacts across the Group (€EP&L/K€ revenue) between
2015 and 2017;
•2,867 social audits carried out among the Group’s suppliers;
•over 489 million people potentially reached by the Kering Foundation’s annual White Ribbon
For Women campaign to raise awareness about violence against Women
Communication one
China, for Gucci, became the third online market after the U.S. and the UK with a very rapid growth. So the
desirability of the brand in China is super high. We had also, as you know, very strong success on the social
media in China with very rapid development of followers on WeChat, which has been one of the most rapid
increase or the most – one of the strongest increases in terms of traffic and visits and also clearly
engagement.
Activist
Ongoing support for culture and heritage
Healthcare and disease prevention
Diversified resources for education
and training
Combating poverty
Support for women and children
In 2018, Kering Eyewear launched the Smart Worker Challenge, a series of around ten very short
challenges that enable the company to promote eco- friendly practices among its employees and at
the same time collect data to help identify the main avenues for reducing its environmental
impact. Some events are particularly conducive to creating a cultur
Kering’s climate strategy (see “Environmental management”) goes beyond the regulatory measurement of its
carbon footprint to include an annual analysis of the entire value chain, from cradle to gate, via the
EP&L, which guides and validates the Group’s strategic decisions. The Group helps address the
impacts of climate change
in two ways:
• by directly reducing the carbon footprint associated with its energy consumption and the
transportation of people and goods;
•from a longer- term perspective, by evaluating and reducing emissions of greenhouse gases in its supply
chain, especially by using the EP&L analysis implemented by the Group for all its Houses
The Independent
Luxury fashion brands pledge to stop using under-18 models; The policy will come into effect early
next year
Responsibility:
All our operations are founded on a responsible
economic model. Our comprehensive, sustainable
approach is a structural competitive advantage
•Towards sustainable Luxury
Can a responsible economic approach change the very nature
of Luxury? For Kering, the answer is a resounding “yes”.
For our brands, sustainability is an economic opportunity,
a source of inspiration and innovation. Methods, materials,
resources and products are being reinvented and customer
usages and expectations are changing. Having set itself
measurable social and environmental performance targets
as part of its 2025 strategy, Kering is changing the way
it designs luxury products through the inclusion of
non -±nancial
criteria to create sustainable value for
customers as well as for society.
•
A people- centered approach
The aim of the responsible model is to rethink Kering’s
relationships with its stakeholders so as to ensure fair and
ethical treatment that constantly takes into account the
social and environmental impacts of the Group’s operations.
The model impacts all dimensions of Kering’s ecosystem,
from the Group’s strategy and the Houses’ creative decisions
to operational production, processing and distribution
choices. Placing people at the heart of the model brings
fresh entrepreneurial spirit, inspiring and engaging
employees and stakeholders.
•
Creative potential
Responsibility is deeply embedded in the Group’s
organizational structure, bringing about short- and
long- term competitive gains. As well as promoting growth
through ever more innovative and attractive products, it
rewards best business practices such as good cost control
and process upgrading. In a context of limited natural
resources, new high- quality materials are being fashioned
and more sustainable processes devised. We are constantly
on the look- out for innovative and disruptive technologies.
For our brands, this represents a vast swathe of creative
territory yet to be explored.
•
Governance and ethics
Built on the Group’s core values, Kering’s responsible model
leverages an ambitious governance structure, supported
by the Board of Directors and its Sustainability Committee.
Together they drive the sustainability strategy, which the
Houses put into action every day under the guidance of
dedicated experts. The Group’s Ethics Committees,
Compliance structure and whistleblowing procedure for
employees and third parties ensure that Kering’s Code of
Ethics and principles for responsible business conduct
are properly applied
Digital
Kering announces new developments in its digital
strategy, aimed at enhancing the Group’s omni- channel
capabilities and its Houses’ digital activities. In particular,
Kering will fully internalize the e- commerce activities
currently handled through the joint venture with Yoox
Net- a- Porter Group (YNAP) in the first half of 2020
Opportunistic
L’Oréal
In China, the Y generations,
born from 1980 to 2000,
and the Z generations
(born after 2000) like
to stand out from the
crowd and express their
personality. They want to
be original, set their sights
on aspirational brands, and
travel all over the world. The
makeup category is making
the most of these profound
generational changes,
thanks to the boom in
connected beauty
The Group expects consumer choices to be increasingly influenced by the carbon impact of products and the
overall environmental performance of
manufacturers, with certain categories of consumers becoming increasingly mindful of the impact of their
purchasing decisions.
Event Type: Q4 2018 Earnings Call
Date: 2019-02-08
And then second question would be about NYX and Urban Decay. We haven't talked a lot about them
today. So, what happened in 2018? And I guess consolidation a bit, but what happened?
Second thing is that the social traction of the brand is extremely high. It remains a darling of all the
influencers of makeup artists. Third is you still have a lot of people even makeup lovers that don't know
NYX yet. And fourth, wherever in the shops we are, wherever we are, NYX is always within the top brands
of the store. So we believe that it's a breath before a new phase of development for this very unique brand for
the division
Company presentation 31 dec 2018
New e-commerce
practices and services
E-commerce is changing, to offer new distribution
methods and services.
Influencer-driven sales
are growing increasingly fast. L’Oréal has
partnered with Boutiquaat, a multi-brand
e-commerce site in the Middle East that hosts
more than 200 beauty influencers. Consumers
receive recommendations for products via the
platform, where they can also buy them directly.
The services available online are also growing.
The augmented reality technologies
by ModiFace allow customers to virtually
out products and simulate different looks
This incredible solution helps consumers
feel more certain about their choices, leading
to increased purchases.
Voice ordering has become increasingly effective
on e-commerce websites and will be the next big
challenge for the Group’s brands
activist:
L’Oréal USA received a maximum score of 100 in
the Corporate
Equality Index 2018,
consisting of an investigation and a report
managed by the
Human Rights Campaign Foundation
. This score reflects the commitment by L’Oréal USA in favour of equality for persons who are part of the
LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender) community within the Company
digital:
Design: Retail
Al + AR = Beauty Fab: L'OREAL'S MODIFACE AND HONG KONG-BASED HEALTH AND
BEAUTY RETAILER A.S. WATSON GROUP ANNOUNCE VIRTUAL MAKEUP TRY-ON
#COLOURME.(PLUGGED IN)
To keep pace with the changing face of beauty retail, Watsons is partnering with Toronto-based ModiFace,
an artificial intelligence and augmented reality platform specialized for beauty (which just so happened to be
acquired by L'Oreal early last year as part of the company's digital acceleration strategy). ModiFace resides
within L'Oreal's Digital Services Factory, a dedicated network to design and develop new digital services for
the group's brands.
"Digital technologies are about to revolutionize retail, making shopping more entertaining, easy and
personalized. We want to be a driving force of this transformation and so does A.S. Watson, who is a
longstanding and trusted retail partner for us," says Alexis Perakis-Valat, president of L'Oreal's Consumer
Products Division. "
The cosmetics market continued to grow steadily and in fact
accelerated in 2018. Do you think this is a structural trend?
Clearly, the market has been particularly buoyant, making 2018
the best year in 20 years
(1).
There are strong underlying trends
driving this acceleration over the past few years.
The first, and probably most important factor is the insatiable
desire for beauty across all countries and cultures. Second,
premiumization: consumers are ready to pay more and trade
up for products with new benefits, better performance and
superior quality. Third, digitalization, as beauty and digital are a
perfect match. It has never been easier to discover beauty, share
it and buy products online, even in the most remote corners of
the world. Digital is and will remain a terrific booster for beauty.
Finally, our market is also fuelled by increased penetration
of beauty all over the world. First, because of e-commerce,
which is extending our reach far beyond the limits of traditional
distribution, especially in emerging economies. Also because
of many white spaces in terms of categories and countries.
And finally because there are always new consumer targets.
Once again, L’Oréal outperformed the market. What were the
drivers of this growth?
Our growth accelerated to produce our best year in more than
10 years. And we achieved a new record operating margin of
18.3%.
We significantly outperformed the market, generating strong
positions in the most promising and strategic areas for the
future.
We strongly reinforced our position in Asia Pacific, where
we enjoyed our highest growth. Asia Pacific overtook North
America to become our second largest zone this year. By
sector, we outpaced the market in both Luxury, the most
dynamic of the market, and Dermocosmetics, ideally placed
to meet rapidly growing health and well-being expectations
all over the world. We strengthened our leadership in two
thriving channels: e-commerce and Travel Retail. Finally, we
outperformed in skincare, the category where the combination
of trusted brands, power franchises and the innovation offered
by our R&I, is a winning equation.
You have said previously that digital is not the cherry on the
cake, but the cake itself! How important it is for your business?
In fact, Digital is doing much more than generating additional
business. It is radically transforming our company.
Digital is boosting our brand power. In this world of algorithms,
bigger is truly better. In 2018, our biggest brands have become
even stronger.
Digital is also strengthening our power to connect with
consumers. The acquisition of ModiFace, for example, has been
instrumental in enriching the services we offer.
Digital is now totally embedded in our teams: in every brand,
in every Division, every function and every country, infusing
the entire company with digital excellence.
Digital has been, and will continue to be, a powerful accelerator for growth.
Beyond Digital, new technologies are opening up new horizons for Beauty. And we are absolutely determined to
be the pioneers, the champions and the leaders of this new Beauty Tech world.
puma
Operating expenses (OPEX)
rose by 11.8% and amounted to EUR 1,928.4 million in 2018.
Intensified marketing activities, the refurbishment and extension of our own retail store network,
including our e-commerce business as well as further investments into our IT-infrastructure have
led to this increase.