You are on page 1of 14

Business Strategy

Coronavirus:
Luxury
Strategies

The Covid-19 pandemic is driving systematic


change across the luxury sector. Here we outline the
strategic actions that luxury brands should consider
taking during the crisis and the recovery

Gucci
Analysis
The coronavirus outbreak is disrupting and
casting a shadow over many markets around
the world – and the luxury retail sector is no
exception. McKinsey estimates that the
global industry for personal luxury goods will
contract by 35% to 39% in 2020 compared to
the previous year as a result of the crisis. 
Despite the harsh reality, the top 5% of
consumers still have discretionary income to
spend, and luxury brands are shifting their
strategies to serve them where they are, with
an acceleration of digital capabilities, new
discovery tools and virtual customer service
that echoes the exceptional level of IRL
interaction that luxury shoppers demand and
expect in-store.
Aside from selling, the pandemic is giving rise
to a new backdrop for luxury brand
communications, with a strong focus on
social connection and customer
communities. New narratives of care and
compassion are coming to the fore as luxury
brands have to add responsibility, generosity
and social improvement to both their
products and their actions in order to align Get t y
with new consumer values and a rapidly
evolving retail landscape. 
Digital-First
Adopting a digital-first strategy is We’re also seeing some luxury brands
paramount for brands and retailers to pivoting to online for the very first time as
survive the Covid-19 pandemic. As stores their stores have been forced to close.
remain closed in many parts of the world, Heritage accessories label Delvaux
people quarantine at home and we continue debuted transactional e-commerce in April
to see increased digitisation of products 2020, while watchmaker Patek Philippe is
and services, e-commerce is now the crucial now allowing select retail partners to sell T mall
point of sale, connection and community certain models online for the first time.
building for luxury brands. Hard luxury brands including Montblanc,
Piaget and Bulgari have launched flagship
With McKinsey expecting almost a quarter
stores on Alibaba-owned Tmall to reach
of US and European consumers to increase
more customers in China.
their spend online in April 2020, brands
must look to accelerate digital investments As people are more receptive to buying
and shift marketing spend to online online than ever before, luxury brands
channels, with an almost forensic focus on should take this opportunity to ramp up
customer service for the top 1%. digital-first strategies. For many luxury
Those who enhance their digital strategy players, this will require a mindset shift as
now will win out, either by launching they will need to begin to operate like pure
innovative new channels or by digital players, rather than thinking about
experimenting with digital innovation to what benefits online can offer their offline
simulate the IRL experience online. Burberry, channels.
for example, has teamed up with Google to However, this will come at a cost. Since
launch a new AR shopping tool activated digital channels can be less profitable
from mobile web search results. Fine than bricks-and-mortar retail, brands need
jewellery brand Annoushka has trained to establish a balanced model that Laings
retail staff to use Hero, a livestream prioritises digital growth with cutting-edge
shopping app, so they can sell even when customer experience.
stores are closed.
Focus on Service
Luxury is synonymous with impeccable Brands should start planning now how
customer service, and this must be they can continue and build on online
recreated online for top spenders, who customer service strategies indefinitely. We
expect the same level of attention and care predicted the rise of texters as a key
as they would in a high-end department shopper group for 2020, and expect this to
store or boutique.  grow as it allows for immediate, personal
To reach shoppers who still demand a high- service, meeting shoppers in an intimate H ublo t
space.
touch human experience, brands should
look to connect them with sales associates For multibrand boutiques stocking luxe
via virtual platforms such as Zoom, Skype streetwear, consider product drops just for
and FaceTime. Watchmaker Hublot has the virtual store; and for niche categories
launched a digital boutique to serve clients such as high-end skincare or bridal, look to
wanting to purchase a new watch during private, paid-for Zoom consultations
the coronavirus outbreak. Using Skype or between customers and associate experts.
FaceTime, Hublot sales advisors aim to Above all, one-on-one, online customer
recreate the same level of customer service can help to combat the loneliness
experience as shoppers would receive in- that many people are feeling in self-
store, with a focus on personalisation. isolation, and creates deeper connections. 
With people getting used to life in the new Convenience and fast delivery are also key
normal, big spenders could likely expect to considerations for luxury brands serving
continue shopping via Zoom, especially in customers during the pandemic. Women's
luxury department stores where stylists RTW designer Mary Katrantzou has
could show them around the space and implemented an "at your doorstep" service,
help them shop – a strategy that Harvey which invites shoppers who live in London
Nichols has experimented with. to try pieces on at home, delivered by T hr ead s S t y ling
contactless couriers who wait outside as
you try on in case of any returns.
Pivoting to Live Video
Livestreaming is a key priority for online third week of March 2020, Instagram
engagement with luxury brands throughout reported a 70% increase in Live views.
the pandemic. Livestreaming is a key opportunity for
In China, livestream events emerged as a luxury brands to drive sales and engage
winning strategy for luxury retailers to give authentically with consumers, and can Lo uis Vuit t o n

consumers a way of interacting with their also be an innovative way to market high-
brand in realtime, immersing themselves in end product launches during this time.
Dior, for example, introduced its Gem
live storytelling and educational events.
Clutch in China on WeChat just before the
Burberry, Prada and Bottega Veneta all brand began to roll it out in the West.
signed onto Tmall’s monthly luxury
livestreaming promotion, while Chinese For smaller brands, accessible live video
social community Xiaohongshu actively platforms allows them to continue
intimate, one-on-one dialogues. High-end
began rolling out its livestreaming tool
skincare brand Dr Barbara Sturm is using
when coronavirus first forced people to
both privately scheduled and public video
shelter in place, with Louis Vuitton one of
the first luxury brands to use the feature on streams, including personal consultations
Bur ber r y
the platform to promote its summer 2020 through FaceTime and WhatsApp, to drive
collection. Some 15,000 users watched the sales. It also hosted a digital masterclass
streaming with 6.25 million comments and on Zoom where, for $10 each, almost 100
likes. customers tuned in to a 75-minute
skincare lesson, with more than 50% of
Live video has similarly taken off in the people going onto place orders
West, with high adoption rates. Instagram afterwards. 
and Facebook Live views doubled in March
2020, with CEO Mark Zuckerberg saying that For going live to work, it should be
usage was so high that “the company was participatory and interesting, giving
just trying to keep the lights on”. During the customers a glimpse into the brand, rather
than look like jumping on the bandwagon.  Dr Bar bar a S t ur m
Building Creative
Communities
We previously highlighted how creative In mid-March 2020, Loewe launched its
communities are banding together with new Loewe en Casa digital series, featuring the
grassroots initiatives to help keep their brand’s Craft Prize artists, who host live
industry afloat during these difficult times. streams on everything from metalwork to
We’re also seeing a major shift towards weaving. Prada has launched a series of
luxury brands creating their own online digital talks on Instagram, called “Prada
creative communities, engaging shoppers Possible Conversations”, connecting
through outlets that support the arts and different people from the fashion through
Lo ewe
young creatives, or building platforms that live dialogues on fashion, art, cinema,
educate and inspire while putting forward literature, architecture and more,
their own social mission. broadcast on the brand's official account. 
From Marc Jacobs’ WFH series to Ganni’s Alexander McQueen has debuted the
new Talks podcast, across categories “McQueen Creators”, a community project
brands have been pivoting to lifestyle to inspire creativity during the crisis. Each
content that aligns with culture and week, the brand launches a new creative
creativity. Often using Instagram’s Live concept to encourage followers to “engage
feature to showcase everything from artistically” with imagery and pieces
meditation to cooking, live music, book shared on the brand’s social media
clubs and virtual exercise, luxury retailers accounts.
are moving away from traditional product Now, more than ever, in order to capture
marketing and exploring a new cultural role. the attention of high spenders, brands
With their stores closed and operations should communicate not only in an
drastically reduced, this opens up a new line emotional way, but also through fun and
of communication with their consumers interactivity. Creating community through
and making them feel part of a community. storytelling is crucial to establish a long-
term relationship that can be further
enhanced in the future. Alexand er McQ ueen
Soft-Sell Strategies
Mastering the subtle art of the soft sell is a The company said the archive sales
key strategy for luxury brands looking to have influenced full-priced purchasing on
deepen connections with customers while the site as well. 
still improving the bottom line. Now more Luxury jeweller Irene Neuwirth has taken a
than ever, soft selling strategies should be soft approach to marketing and sales
considered given heightened sensitivity during the pandemic. Where the brand had
around discretionary spending as the typically tagged Instagram posts with
wealth gap widens – something that the
shopping links back to the website to drive Ir ene N euwir t h Ir ene N euwir t h
Covid-19 pandemic is likely to exacerbate.
revenue, Neuwirth has decided to remove
With marketing budgets frozen and new hyperlinks and prices from all posts going
campaign content put on hold, luxury forward. The idea now is that people can
brands should use this time to create simply enjoy images of the products
curated experiences that invite customers without being fed a sales message.
into their world, with entertaining and
"Do people need jewellery right now? Of
uplifting branded content that can be
course not, nobody needs jewellery,”  said
pushed out alongside links to buy Neuwirth. “Does anybody want to enjoy a
supporting products and items. beautiful picture? Tons of people like to do
Women's RTW label Tanya Taylor has that.”
pivoted its e-commerce to drive storytelling As digital services become more
and ramp up loyalty, rather than pushing embedded in our everyday lives, luxury
heavy discounts during the crisis. The brand brands will have to differentiate through
has offered sporadic flash sales featuring soft-sell strategies that closely connect
archival items, with each purchase consumers to relevant branded content
triggering a donation of five protective and offer seamless inspiration-to-purchase
masks for organisations in need. processes.

T any a T ay lo r
Discovery Evolves
With people shopping solely online during In China, luxury art mall chain K11 is
the coronavirus pandemic, the brand trying to keep customers' attention and
discovery process has evolved to reflect new share of wallet during the crisis by offering
digital behaviours and advances in a 360-degree panorama tour through its
technology.  mall in the southern Chinese city of
Luxury brands and retailers are working Guangzhou.
with developers to create virtual stores and K11 launched the virtual store via a Chr ist ian Dio r

new platforms that enable online discovery, WeChat Mini Program in March 2020 that
emulating the feeling of visiting a mall or allowed users to tour the mall and
boutique IRL, when they are in fact closed. purchase from 46 different luxury stores.
In February 2020, Dior unveiled a new Going forward, luxury consumers will
virtual beauty boutique, which looks be increasingly comfortable with online
identical to its store on Paris’ Avenue des platforms and new methods of digital
Champs-Élysées and allows viewers to product discovery, especially as word-of-
wander around, learn about products and mouth recommendations diffuse amid
make purchases. prolonged social distancing.
The boutique will be changed six times per As highlighted in our AR-Powered
year, with different collections, products and Shoppers report, virtual and augmented
store design concepts showcased each reality are also likely to play a bigger role
time. Once inside the virtual space, visitors in the customer discovery process, such as
can check out the perfumes, gift boxes, bath the virtual shoe try-on feature in Gucci’s
and body products and a video display wall app. In spite of these difficult times,
at the back. It’s also possible to find out brands who service consumers with digital
information about specific products and initiatives that embrace new technologies
order them simply by clicking on them.  and foster discovery will resonate with the
next generation of luxury shoppers.
New Narratives of Care
The Covid-19 pandemic is helping to rapidly At the heart of these shifts lies a sense of
evolve the meaning of purpose beyond CSR, community and togetherness, helping
accelerating values shifts across the world luxury brands to seem more warm, caring
to become a central business priority. and above all, human.
This marked shift towards care and "The prize is a family, it’s a community,"
compassion has emerged as a bright spot said Jean-Paul Claverie, adviser to LVMH
on an otherwise turbulent retail horizon, as chief Bernard Arnault, predicting this LVMH

brands have found innovative ways to community would rally around the former
connect and make a difference, stepping up prize winners, whose brands stand to be
to provide emotional, financial and medical impacted by the global economic crisis. 
support where governments haven’t. Brands have the opportunity now to offer
As explored further in Coronavirus: Brand comfort, care and distraction to their
Strategies and Coronavirus: Corporate Care communities, driving long-term loyalty and
Strategies, the luxury market had led the brand advocacy.
way, with major donations and initiatives Look to replicate the high standard of
from leading luxury brands, individual service in bricks-and-mortar stores via
designers and conglomerates that have WhatsApp or Zoom, which in turn can
helped to fight the coronavirus.  bring an added element of personality,
LVMH has also pivoted its annual Prize for humour and transparency. Savile Row
Young Designers into a solidarity fund tailors Huntsman, for example, is doing
for all of the shortlisted emerging brands. virtual consultations for new and existing
Instead of vying for a main prize of 300,000 clients, and pursuing a Design Your Own
euros in June 2020, the eight finalists will Tweed competition, with downloadable
each receive 40,000 euros. PDF templates and a call for submissions
over Instagram. LVMH Pr ize.co m
Meaningful Action
As Covid-19 has spread across the world, What began as a goodwill gesture has set
much of the fashion industry has struggled off a chain reaction of brands following
to stay afloat, facing major obstacles such suit, transforming fashion ateliers from
as store closures, an excess of unsold non-essential to essential workplaces.
merchandise and logistical difficulties. Brandon Maxwell has mobilised his teams
The brands who are navigating these waters to make protective masks and gowns,
with success are those that are redefining while UK designer Patrick Grant has turned
his Lancashire factory over to creating
the luxury playbook, coming up with Br and o n Maxwell
600,000 pairs of scrubs for British NHS
inventive and creative ways to give back to
workers. 
local communities while keeping their staff
in business.  The coronavirus pandemic is a call to
First outlined in our Coronavirus: Corporate action for many brands to pivot, hitting
reset on how they operate. While we've
Care Strategies report, a number of luxury
seen many big luxury players making large
brands are stepping in to help amid global
philanthropic donations, it is meaningful
shortages of PPE, doubling-down on
support and providing medical solutions.  shifts such as these that will stay top of
consumers' mind for longer.
New York-based designer Christian Siriano
has emerged as a trailblazer in these Going forward, business success will
efforts: the designer reached out personally increasingly be defined by how much a
to New York Governor Andrew Cuomo on company adds value to people's lives,
March 20 asking how he could help, and what it contributes to society and how it
has since redeployed his team of stands up to support those in need. With
seamstresses to produce protective the pandemic exposing government
equipment for New York City hospitals. The shortfalls on a global scale, brands will be
team has so far shipped more than 10,000 under the spotlight more than ever. Those
masks to frontline medics. which pursue purpose and take action
without a profit-seeking agenda will win Pat r ick Gr ant
out. 
Online Messaging Shifts
As the world continues to lock down to Mytheresa has also adopted a positive
flatten the curve of the Covid-19 pandemic, tone of voice for its new online drops, with
luxury brands are shifting gear, pivoting an edit called "The optimist's guide to
online messaging to reflect the ongoing spring dressing". Creating a sense of
situation. escapism is also key, with Temperley
Looking to the future with a sense of London pushing wistful "Summer
optimism is a key strategy for online luxury dreaming" edits.
brands and third-party retailers, which are As the retail landscape slowly enters the My T her esa Mo d a O per and i
using their websites and social channels to early phases of recovery, luxury brands
promote new collections alongside should be mindful not to use "we're back"
messaging that looks ahead with positivity. messaging, but take a low-key approach,
Online luxury retailer Matches has reworked be authentic, genuine and empathetic.
Continue to focus on feel-good messaging,
one of its major S/S 20 trend stories as New
creating engaging online campaigns that
Horizons, designed "for future days on the
instil optimism and hope – without being
sand", while Moda Operandi promotes
"vacation-ready minimalism to secure in false.
advance" alongside a playful suggestion There is going to be a shift in what people
that "the beach can come later". The luxury buy, based on new post-crisis priorities. An
retailer's frank and honest tone of voice authentic tone of voice and a level of
comes across as authentic, calling on transparency will be important, revealing a
shoppers to have a renewed sense of human side to the brand or retailer behind
optimism as summer approaches, even the message. Above all, imagery and
though it might seem far off.  language should reflect our new reality,
whatever that may be.

Mo d a O per and i
Finding Joy in the Past
Prolonged quarantine measures around the this helps the brand to stay top of mind,
world are forcing brands to think outside of repurposing old content while imbuing a
the box, finding creative ways to inject sense of escapism and wanderlust.  
newness and keep customers happy. As Other LVMH Group brands are using social
photography studios are closed, savvy media campaigns to allow consumers to
luxury brands are looking to their archives “escape differently” with branded content
to communicate and engage with fans on inspired by “nomadic thinking” during the
social while campaign shoots are on hold.
coronavirus crisis. Rimowa asked Br and o n Maxwell T if f any & Co
US designer Brandon Maxwell is using his Japanese designer Naoto Fukasawa to
brand's Instagram channel to spread transform its iconic aluminium suitcase
positivity and keep people engaged, without into a chair, “an invitation to rest, reflect
publishing any new content. Throughout and dream of a radiant future”.
March and April 2020, the designer has
Tiffany & Co has also been sharing archive
been posting his personal favourite
imagery from past campaigns to drive
memories from over the years, from runway
engagement. “In hopes of bringing some
shows to magazine shoots, joy and optimism to your feed, we’re
accompanied by captions that explain how looking back on a few of our favourite
much that moment in history meant to him moments,” the brand wrote on Instagram.
and the label. 
Amid heightened fears and panic, brands
Louis Vuitton has also been dipping into its should look to spread positivity, quelling
archives, sharing iconic campaign imagery people's anxiety by offering a source of
shot by French photographer Jean Larivière escapism and distraction. Republishing
in the 1980s under the hashtag old imagery is an easy win here, keeping
#SpiritofTravel. With most consumers glued things fresh and helping fans to stay
to their social media feeds during engaged.  
lockdown, 
Lo uis Vuit t o n
Action Points
- The strongest brands to emerge from the
coronavirus crisis will be those who quickly
accelerate and strengthen their digital
capabilities, allowing them to leverage future
opportunities and protect their business from
potential risks. Livestreaming services,
omnichannel inventory capabilities and
social commerce are all key areas to invest
in.
- In luxury, consumers are the ultimate
shareholders. As we get more comfortable
with the new normal, luxury brands must
continue to deliver top-notch customer
service that adapts to the current reality.
Adopt today's winning strategies in the long
term to remain relevant and resilient once the
situation has stabilised.
- Foster a sense of community amid social
distancing, through engaging online editorial
content and virtual platforms that give one-
on-one attention to the top customers. Invest
in customer relationship management tools
that help keep up an ongoing dialogue with
key clients.
- Adopt an optimistic and positive tone of Get t y

voice for messaging that reassures and helps


people ease into a new norm in tense times.
Related Reports
Post-Coronavirus: Future-Proofing Coronavirus: Global Change
Your Brand Accelerators Coronavirus: Brand Strategies

China's Evolving Influencer China: Post-Coronavirus Road to


Landscape Recovery Selling Luxury to Gen Z

You might also like