The Essential Carpentry Tools List: 25 Different

Types & Their Uses

Last Updated: April 7, 2020

There are a lot of tools that are used when doing woodwork. We have assembled a
list of the top 25 different tools and their uses.

The Ultimate Carpentry Tools List:

1. Pencil
A pencil is the most important tool for a carpenter. You will be marking almost every
cut that you want to make. There is a rule that says, “Measure twice, cut once.” You
want a pencil to make your markings in case you need to erase the first one and
make an adjustment.
2. Tape Measure
No carpenter can go without a tape measure. It is used to measure everything. Since
precise measurements are important, make sure that the tab at the end is firmly
attached to the tape before hooking it over the edge of your wood. 25 feet is a good
size for a tape measure. This is long enough to measure most things and short
enough to recoil easily.

3. Utility Knife
Utility knives are always handy for cutting and cleaning joints. The most common
utility knives have disposable blades that slide inside the tool for storage.
4. Screwdriver
Screwdrivers and wood go hand in hand. Many different sizes and styles of screws
can be used in any project. A good carpenter should have a good assortment of
sizes for both flathead and Phillips head screwdrivers.

5. Carpenter Square
A carpenter square is used to help lay your project out properly before you begin to
cut or assemble it. It allows you to measure, draw straight lines, and get perfect 90º
angles.
6. Sturdy Workbench
Carpenters use workbenches a lot and for many different things. This means that
they need to be big and very sturdy. Some people try to work with just the table saw,
but it often isn’t big enough and the saw gets in the way. There is no rule to what a
workbench should be. You can make one that fits your needs.

7. Clamps
Clamps are used to hold your project in place while you are working on it. They are
also used to hold your project together while the glue dries.
8. Jig
A jig is a tool that allows you to make accurate cuts repeatedly without having to
measure every time. For example, if you tend to cut the same size of hole for many
projects, making a jig will allow you to mark it up to be cut without having to
remeasure it every time.

9. Sawhorse
Sawhorses allow you to lay things over them to extend your work surface for extra-
large projects.
10. Chisel
Chisels are used to chip wood out of areas that need to be open. They are also used
to clean out joints and saw cuts.

11. Block Plane

Block planes are used to smooth out projects that have been dovetailed together.
They can also flatten, square, or add curve to your project.
12. Shop Vac
It is impossible to do woodwork without making a large amount of sawdust. You will
also have little chunks of wood left behind when cutting or shaping your project.
A shop vac is a must to clean up the mess. It has a large diameter hose that comes
with a couple of different attachments, and a bucket large enough to hold larger
quantities than a normal vacuum. You can also connect your shop vac to your table
saw and have it running while you cut, so that it sucks the sawdust up before it ever
hits the floor.

13. Sliding Bevel

The sliding bevel is like a square, but the two legs are joined together by a screw
that allows you to adjust the angles you want. If you use a lot of different angles in
your work, a sliding bevel is a must for you.

14. Hand Saw

Hand saws are used when you need to feel how the wood responds to the cutting
blade, and that can’t happen with power saws. They are also much more portable
than power saws are.
15. Power Drill
Power drills are more powerful and less expensive than cordless drills. You may
need this extra power for drilling into large projects.

16. Palm Sander

Palm sanders are small finishing sanders that fit nicely in the palm of your hand.
They are small enough to get into almost any space that you have. Of course, there
are going to be places where no sander of any kind can be used and only plain
sandpaper will suffice, but for the most part, sanders get the job done. Another plus
is that they only use ¼ of a sheet of sandpaper.

17. Table Saw

Table saws are used to rip, miter, shape, square, groove, and join your projects. You
will use this table a lot, so make sure to get a good one that can handle the work.
18. Feather Board
A feather board is like a carpenter’s third hand when using stationary power tools. It
is a piece of wood, or plastic, with slits at one end making little fingers. You don’t
want to accidentally get cut by getting your fingers too close to the cutting blade, so
you use the fingers of the feather board to push your wood tight to the rip fences
while cutting.

19. Rip Fence

Rip fences attach to your table saw and run parallel to the blade. They are used to
guide your wood perfectly straight while you are cutting. They ensure that you will
have a straight, even cut. We recommend getting one that has fine-tuning
adjustments for better accuracy.

20. Router
Routers are used to shape the edges of your work. They will also let you drop the bit
into the middle of a flat surface, cut out your desired design, and lift it back up when
done.

21. Calipers
Calipers are used to make precise measurements to fine-tune your woodworking
projects. They look like a double “F.” One side has a big “F” to measure the outsides
of items. The other has a small “f” to measure the insides of items. The
measurement markings on the central mast let you measure the right-sized openings
for your project.
22. Drill Press
The drill press does more precise drilling and can drill large-diameter holes much
more efficiently than a hand-held drill.

23. Miter Gauge

Miter gauges are used to hold the piece that you are working on at different angles
while you are cutting or sanding it.
24. Level
The level is used to make sure that your projects are level. You use it by placing the
level on top of your project and making adjustments until the bubble is in the center
of the leveling vial.

25. Moisture Meter

A moisture meter shows the amount of moisture that is in a piece of wood. It should
have settings on it for different species of wood, since different woods require
different amounts of moisture in different areas of the world.
We hope that we have given you a good feel for the kinds of tools that you will need
to do carpentry work well.
RULE 1080
PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT AND DEVICES

1081: General Provisions:

1081.01: Every employer as defined in 1002:

(1)Shall at his own expense furnish his workers with protective equipment for the eyes, face,
hands and feet, protective shields and barriers whenever necessary by reason of the hazardous
nature of the process or environment, chemical or radiological or other mechanical irritants or
hazards capable of causing injury or impairment in the function of any part of the body through
absorption, inhalation or physical contact.

(2) Deduction for the loss or damage of personal protective equipment shall be governed by
Article

114, Book III, Labor Code of the Philippines, and Section 14, Rule VIII, Book III, Omnibus Rules
Implementing the Labor Code.

1081.02: All personal protective equipment shall be of the approved design and construction
appropriate for the exposure and the work to be performed.

1081.03: The employer shall be responsible for the adequacy and proper maintenance of personal
protective equipment used in his workplace.

1081.04: No person shall be subjected or exposed to a hazardous environmental condition

without protection.

1082: Eye and Face Protection:

1082.01:Eyes and face protective equipment shall be required where there is reasonable
probability of exposure to such hazards. In such cases, the employer shall furnish a type of
protective equipment suitable for the work to be performed and the employees shall use such
equipment. Eye protection shall be provided where the processes or operations present hazards
of flying objects, liquids, injurious radiation, glare or a combination of these hazards.
1082.02: Eye and face protective equipment shall conform with the following minimum
requirements:

(1) provide adequate protection against the particular hazard for which they are designed or
intended;

(2) be reasonably comfortable to use;

(3) fit snugly and shall not unduly interfere with the movements of the user;

(4) be durable, easily cleaned and capable of being disinfected;

(5) be kept clean and in good condition, and

(6) be of the approved type.

1082.03: Whenever eye protection is needed, persons whose visions require the use of corrective
lenses shall wear goggles or spectacles of any of the following types:

(1) spectacles which provide optical correction;

(2) goggles that can be worn over corrective spectacles without disturbing the adjustment of the
spectacles; or

(3) goggles that incorporate corrective lenses mounted behind the protective lenses.

1082.04: Limitations and precautions indicated by the manufacturer shall be transmitted to the
user and care shall be taken to ensure that such limitations and precautions are strictly followed
and observed.

1082.05: For purposes of design, construction, testing, use of eye and face protection, the
American National Standards for Occupational Eye and Face Protection Equipment (ANSI z87.1-
1968) is adopted.

1083: Respiratory Protection:

1083.01: The primary corrective measure in the control of occupational diseases caused by
harmful dusts, fogs, fumes, mists, gases, smokes, sprays or vapors shall be to prevent
atmospheric contamination. This shall be accomplished through the use or application of
accepted engineering control measures, like enclosure or confinement of the operation, general
and local ventilation and substitution of less toxic materials or a combination of these. When
effective engineering control measures are not feasible or while they are in process of being
instituted, appropriate respirators shall be used.

1083.02: Appropriate respirators shall be furnished by the employer when such equipment are
necessary to protect the health of the employees.

1083.03: The employee shall use the respiratory protection in accordance with instruments.

1083.04: Respiratory Protective Program:

In order to effectively implement the provisions of Rule 1083, the employer shall institute a
respiratory protective program which shall include the following:

(1) Proper selection of respirators on the basis of the hazards to which the workers exposed;

(2) Sufficient instruction and training in the proper use and the limitations of respirators;

(3) When practicable, the assignment of respirators to individual workers for their exclusive use;
(4) Regular cleaning and disinfecting of the respirators. Respirators issued for the exclusive use
of one worker shall be cleaned after each day’s use or as often as necessary. Those used by two or
more workers shall be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected after each use;

(5) Appropriate examination and testing of the conditions of the work area in order to assure that
the allowable degree of employee exposure is maintained, and to determine the effectiveness of
the control measures.

1083.05: Selecting of Respirators:

(1) For purposes of proper selection, design, construction, testing and use of respirators, the
American National Standards Practices for Respiratory Protection (ANSI z88.-21059) is adopted.

1083.06: Use of Respirators:

(1) Standard procedures shall be developed for the use of respirators. These should include all
information and guidance necessary for their proper selection, use and care. Possible emergency
uses of respirators should be anticipated and planned for.

(2) Written procedures shall be prepared covering safe use of respirators in dangerous
atmospheres that might be encountered in normal operations or in emergencies. All personnel
shall be familiar with these procedures and the available respirators to use.

a. Workers in enclosed toxic or oxygen-deficient atmosphere shall be assisted in case of accident

by at least one additional worker stationed in an area unaffected by the incident and provided
with proper rescue equipment to assist the other(s) in case of emergency. Communication
(visual, voice or signal line) shall be maintained among the individuals present;

b. When self-contained breathing apparatus or hose masks with blowers are used in atmospheres
dangerous to life or health, standby men must be present with suitable rescue equipment;

c. Persons using air line respirators in atmospheres hazardous to life or health, shall be equipped
with safety harnesses and safety lines for lifting or removing persons from hazardous
atmospheres or other equivalent provisions for the rescue of persons. A standby man or men with
suitable self-contained breathing apparatus shall be at the nearest fresh air base for emergency
rescue.

(3) For the safe use of any respirator, the user shall be properly instructed in its selection, use and
maintenance.

1083.07: Maintenance and Care of Respirators:

A program for the maintenance and care of respirators shall be adopted to the type of plant,
working conditions, and hazards involved and shall include the following basic services:

(1) inspection for defects (including leak check),

(2) cleaning and disinfecting, and

(3) repair and storage.

1084: Head Protection:

1084.01: Head Protection:

(1) Hard hats for the protection of workers from impact penetration from falling and flying
objects, blows, and from limited electric shock and burns shall be provided where there is
reasonable probability of exposure to such hazards.
(2) Hard hats shall be made of non-combustible or slow-burning materials and when used in
electrical environment shall be non-conductor of electricity.

(3) The total weight of complete hard hat should not be more than 0.45 kgs. (16 ounces).

(4) Hard hats shall have a brim all around to provide protection for the head, face and back of the
neck.

(5) Hard hats without brims and low crowns may be allowed only in confined spaces.

(6) The cradle and sweatband of hard hats shall be detachable and replaceable.

(7) For work in excessive moisture, hard hats shall be water-proof-material.

(8) For the purpose of proper selection, design, construction, testing and use of head protectors
the American National Standards Safety Requirement for Industrial Head Protection (ANSI z59-
1-1969) is adopted.

1084.02: Hair Protection:

(1) All persons with long hair employed around machinery shall completely cover their hair with
well fitting caps or other equivalent protection.

(2) Caps shall be of materials not easily flammable and sufficiently durable to withstand regular
laundering, disinfecting and cleaning.

1085: Hand and Arm Protection:

1085.01: When selecting gloves, consideration should be given to the hazards to which the wearer
may be exposed to and the ease and free movement of the fingers.

1085.02: Gloves shall not be worn by workers operating drills, punch presses or other machinery
in which the hand may be caught by moving parts.

1085.03: Gloves, mittens, and leathers or pads for workers handling sharp edged or abrasive
objects shall be made of tough materials and where necessary provided with special
reinforcement.

1085.04: Gloves, mittens and sleeves for workers handling hot metals shall be made of suitable
heat resisting material.

1085.05: Gloves and sleeves for electrical workers shall be made of rubber or other suitable
materials conforming with the test requirements on dielectric strength.

1085.06: Gauntlets for workers handling corrosive substances, such as acids and caustics, shall
be made of natural rubber, synthetic rubber or pliable plastic material resistant to corrosion.

1085.07: Gauntlets for protecting workers against the action of toxic, irritating or infectious
substances shall:

(1) cover the forearm as much as possible,

(2) have a close fit at the upper end and

(3) not have the slightest break.

Gloves torn during use shall be replaced immediately.

1086: Safety Belts, Life Lines and Safety Nets:

1086.01: General Provisions:

(1) Workmen working in unguarded surface above open pits or tanks, steep slopes, moving
machinery and similar locations, or working from unguarded surfaces six (6) meters (20 ft.) or
more above water or ground, temporary or permanent floor platform, scaffold construction or
where otherwise exposed to the possibility of falls hazardous to life or limb, shall be secured by
safety belts and life lines. In situations where safety belts and life lines in guarded platforms and
scaffolds or temporary floors are not feasible, safety nets shall be provided and installed.

(2) Window washers or cleaners working outside buildings six (6) meters (20 ft.) or more above
the ground or other surfaces unless protected from falling by other means, shall use safety belts
attached to suitable anchors.

(3) Workmen entering a sewer, flue, duct, or other similarly confined places shall be provided
and required to wear safety belts with life lines attached and held by another person stationed at
the opening ready to respond to agreed signals.

(4) Workers who are required to climb and work on top of poles six (6) meters or more shall use
safety belts. On top of structures where there is no place to strap a safety belt, a messenger line
shall be installed for strapping the safety belt or life line.

1086.02: Requirements:

(1) Safety belts shall be made of chromed tanned leather, linen or cotton webbing, or other
suitable materials at least 11.5 cm. (4 1/2 in.) wide and 0.65 cm. (1/4 in.) thick and of sufficient
strength to support a weight of 114 kgs. (250 lbs.) without breaking.

(2) Hardware used for safety belts should have a strength of approximately equal to the full
strength of the waist band. Buckles shall hold securely without slippage or other failure. This
holding power should be achieved by only a single insertion of the strap through the buckle in the
normal or usual way.

(3) Belt anchors shall be made of metal machined from bar stock, forged or heat treated, capable
of supporting a pull of 2730 kgs. (6,000 lbs.) without fracture applied in the direction which the
anchor must withstand should a man fall. All anchors and fastenings shall be provided with
means to prevent turning, backing off or becoming loose. Anchor fittings with single thread
section which is merely screwed into reinforcing plates shall not be used. Metals recommended
for belt anchors are nickel copper alloy and stainless steel.

(4) Life lines shall be made of good quality manila rope of at least 1.9 cm. (3/4 in.) diameter or
equivalent material such as nylon rope of at least 1.27 cm. (1/2 in.) diameter and shall be of
sufficient strength to support a weight of 1140 kgs. (2,500 lbs.) without breaking.

(5) Safety nets shall not be less than 0.94 cm. (3/8 in.) diameter mesh ropes and not less than
1.90 cm. (3/4 in.) diameter border ropes (perimeter) made of manila rope or other materials that
can absorb the impact of a falling body equally as nets fabricated from manila rope of the
dimensions specified. The mesh shall be arranged not to exceed 15.25 cm. (6 in.) on canters
positively and securely attached to avoid wear at each crossing point and at points of contact with
the border.

(6) Safety nets shall be equipped with adequately padded thimbler sockets or equivalent means of
attachments. Supports and anchorages shall be of sufficient size and strength to catch any falling
worker. The nets shall be attached to sufficient supports outside and beyond the area of possible
fall and supported at sufficient heights to prevent sagging to any solid object beneath when
cushioning the fall of a worker.

(7) Safety belts, life lines and safety nets shall be inspected before use and at least once each week
thereafter. Defective belts, lines or nets shall be immediately discarded and replaced or repaired
before reuse.
1087: Use of Safety Shoes:

Workers shall be provided with approved safety shoes and leg protection whenever necessary as
determined by the nature of work.

Safe Handling of Tools

Workers should be trained on safe procedures for working with tools.

However, safe practices when carrying or storing those tools may not be
thoroughly covered. Tools can pose a safety risk when they are misplaced
or improperly handled by workers. The National Safety Council offers the
following tips for safe handling of tools when they are not in use:

 Workers should never carry tools up or down a ladder in a way that

inhibits grip. Ideally, tools should be hoisted up and down using a
bucket or strong bag, rather than being carried by the worker.
 Tools should always be carefully handed from one employee to
another – never tossed. Pointed tools should be passed either in their
carrier or with the handles toward the receiver.
 Workers carrying large tools or equipment on their shoulders should
pay close attention to clearances when turning and maneuvering
around the workplace.
 Pointed tools such as chisels and screwdrivers should never be
carried in a worker’s pocket. Acceptable ways to carry them include
in a toolbox, pointed down in a tool belt or pocket tool pouch, or in
the hand with the tip always held away from the body.
 Tools should always be put away when not in use. Leaving tools
lying around on an elevated structure such as a scaffold poses a
significant risk to workers below. This risk increases in areas with
heavy vibration.

Layout Using Batter Boards & String

How to Lay Out a Deck, Foundation or
Other Structure
What are batter boards and how are they used to lay out a structure?

Here we describe the rough and then precise layout of any structure on the
ground using simple stakes, boards, string, a level and a measuring tape.
This article series describes construction methods for getting your structure
properly placed, plumb, level, and square.

How to Lay Out a Structure Using Batter Boards.

Our sketch summarizes the procedure for using batter boards and
string to lay out any structure on the ground and to get the structure
square, level, and exactly where you want it.

Here we'll give details of how to use this easy method to lay out a
foundation, footing, deck, or just about any structure properly located, level,
and square on the site.

If by accident your structure is out of square or level (or both) then cutting
and filling in the studs (if it's a wall), floor joists, ceiling joists, or rafters if it's
a roof is going to be hell as every cut will have to be different, the plywood
(sold in 4x8 ft. squares) you might use for sheathing isn't going to fit without
trimming, and installing siding or roofing is also going to get really ugly.

Here we will describe the steps in laying out a simple building, deck, or
foundation layout.

The procedure uses little more than stakes, boards, string, a carpenter's
level, and a measuring tape, and ok, and maybe a mallet or sledge or
hammer to drive stakes and to tap in a couple of nails.
How to assemble and use batter boards.

Step 1: Rough Deck Layout

Now we're ready to place the deck on the ground.

Start with setting the approximate deck location (sketch below) , paying
careful attention to the front edge or to whichever side of the structure has
a most-critical location, such as back from a property line or parallel to a
building (or attached to it in which case your work will be simpler.

But even for an attached deck you will need to make accurate square and
level and plumb measurements of the three sides of the deck that are to be
built to the building.

Our sketch shows how to lay out the deck, building, or foundation location
using string-lines, posts, and batter boards.

Though the first stake locations are just approximate (the green stakes in
my sketch), you might want a tack in the top of each stake so that later they
can be placed more-precisely according to string lines.

Watch out: take care to make all layout measurements from a single
common point. Choose one corner, mark that "home" and take all tape
measurements from there. Otherwise your measurements will contain
errors.
Here we're laying out a new structure on open ground. If you're building a
deck attached to a building, one end of the ledger board, bolted to the
existing structure, will be your home base measurement point.

In our sketch the two green stakes along the line indicating the planned
front of the structure are our first rough line. These are driven in a line
parallel to the desired front face of the structure - from here on we'll call it a
deck, though as I've said it could be a foundation for a home, or something
else.

Step 2: Build the Batter Boards

Using 1x3 or 1x4 or similar lumber make three or four pointed stakes that
are long-enough to drive into the soil securely and that will be tall enough
that you can level your string lines over the ground. For very steep sites
see "Referencing a high deck" found in DECK LAYOUT.

Below is a photo of worker K assembling one of the four sets of batter

boards needed to lay out our project. For this project instead of building a
single 90° batter board with three stakes, we used two independent batter
boards each with its own pair of stakes.

Still the two batterboard halves need to be set into the ground at
approximately a 90° angle to one another.

The batterboards do not need to be a precise 90° angle (though you can
use a framing square to accomplish that quite easily). That's because we're
going to be moving our string lines along the top of the batter boards to get
our 90° angles for the structure's corner posts.

This project involved building a large, free-standing deck over gently-sloped

terrain for the Summerblue Arts Camp in Two Harbors, Minnesota.
We first put out batter boards - stakes and horizontal wood strips - to mark
the locations of the corners of the stage (not shown in this photo).

Step 3: Place the Batter Boards in the Right Location

We started by locating the front of the stage, picking one corner as the
"home base" from which ALL other measurements are taken.

Choosing and making

measurements from a single point avoids ugly errors creeping into a deck
or porch or foundation layout. Those errors can result in a structure that is
not square.

After choosing the home base corner from which the rest of the stage
would be located, we chose the front line of the stage to fit as wanted on
the terrain which was certainly not level nor smooth.

Choosing the line of the front line of the stage plus its outer dimension,
combined with our stage drawing plan (posts are set a bit in from the actual
deck or stage final outer perimeter, we then set the spots for the second
post, the sides, and the back line of the same rectangle by measuring in
from the original layout string (pink in our photo).

All four of those locations are defined by driving the stakes and batter
boards some distance outside of the actual perimeter of the final structure.

Typically we set the batter boards 3-4 feet back from the corners of the
planned outside dimensions of the finished structure.

Watch out: the batter boards have to be large enough or long enough that
when set back 3-4 ft. from the actual dimensions of the structure your string
lines, laid across the tops of the batter boards, can be placed directly over
the intended outer edge of the finished structure.
Then nails driven into the top edge of the batter boards, and some string,
let us set the exact locations of the perimeter and of the posts.

Key is to locate the stake-and-batter-boards a few feet outside the actual

desired post locations of the deck or stage corners.

Otherwise the batter board setup will be in the way when you go to dig or
drill the post holes. Moving the batter boards to drill the post hole would
lose all of the initial layout.

For this project, because a tractor and auger had to have access to drill our
post holes, the batter boards were set well back from the actual post
locations - which is why you don't see them in my photo.

Step 4: Attach String Lines to the Batter Board Top Edges

Some builders hang the strings over the batter boards with weights to make
adjustment easy. Others saw a notch in the top edge of the batter boards to
mark the final string location.

To hold our strings in a temporary and later (after adjustment) in their final
position we might also use finishing nails or even drywall screws that are
easy to move and that don't split the boards.

Step 5: Adjust Batter Board String Lines to Form a Perfect Rectangle

of Proper Size

Assuming that we want a rectangle and not an odd shape, after securing
the front and right side string lines to our home base batter boards (the
front right batter-boards in our sketch), we adjust the string positions on the
remaining three batter boards until the string corners are
 Place the front string: The front string is over the intended or
planned outside front edge of the finished structure (or of its
supporting frame).
 Level the rectangle: check that the string lines are all level.

Watch out: if the string lines are not level then all of your
measurement lengths will be in error - making them too long for the
actual framed structure when it's assembled.

Well not always. For the stage-deck being constructed in some of

these photos, the director wanted the deck to slope from its rear edge
towards the front for theatrical reasons.

Similarly, for improved drainage you might want to slope a deck away
from a building to which it is attached.

Still the right way to build a deiberately-sloped deck or porch is to first

measure and lay it out leve, plumb, and square, and then calculate
and measure the desired slope or drop.

For example, if you want your deck to slope 1/8" per foot over an 8-
foot distance from high to low side, you would calculate (1/8" / ft.
slope) x (8 ft distance) = 1" total fall. Then once your "low" end of the
deck has been set square and level you'll drop the elevation of the
low side by 1" from that point.

Watch out: Over a small deck or over a span between deck girders
that is itself short, 8 ft. or less, that drop will be barely noticeable in
cutting the joists to fit but for a large joist span you should double-
check the length measurements before cutting your joists.
 Square up the string rectangle: Using the 6-8010 rule discussed
at DECK LEVEL PLUMB SQUARE-UP, we make sure that each
string pair that meet forms a 90° angle
 Place the side strings front ends: The side string front ends are
brought in or out along the top edge of the front sets of batter boards
until we have the correct width of the front line.

Measuring the lengths of the sides and adjusting the strings over the
batter boards, properly locate the sides over the planned outside
dimension of the structure
  Place the side string back ends: The side string back ends are
brought in or out along the top edge of the rear sets of batter boards
until we have the correct width of the rear line.
 Place the rear string line: The rearmost string is set across the top
edge of the rear batter boards until it marks the proper width of the
final structure.
 Check the side, front and rear measurements: We check again
with our tape measure to assure that parallel sides are of equal
length
 Check the square: We check squareness again by measuring the
diagonals - equal lengths assures us that the four sides form a
rectangle, not a trapezoid or other weird shape.

Step 6: Set Corner Post Holes According to the String Lines

 Mark the post hole: Using a plumb line held at the intersecting string
corners we place a stake at the center of where each corner post
hole should be dug.
 Dig the post hole: We dig the post holes to the proper depth and
prepare the hole with a solid block, pier, or other details according to
the construction plan and local codes

Each post hole, starting with the key corner posts, was centered on
its desired spot - the hole center can be within a few inches of exact
because we can adjust the post within the hole to its exact location
along the string lines:

Watch out: Remember to put the bottom of your post below the frost
line if you're in a freezing climate. Remember to get engineering help
if you're building on a steep slope or in un-stable soils.
  Place the posts: The post holes were large enough that we could
set each intermediate stage (or deck) post to its exact location by
aligning it with the string now wrapped around our corner posts and
pulled tight.

You can see one of the workers (A) setting post #2 dead plumb by
using the level on two sides of the post (and taking into account if a
post is not dead straight).

For this project, each post was set on a solid concrete block that was
level in the hole bottom.
 Backfill the posts: When worker (A) has the post in the exact
position with its outer face flush with the string she holds it in place
while the second worker (J) pours in our ready-mix Quickcrete (we
were using holes without form tubes in this project).

After the Quickcrete was in place worker (J) back-filled with soil and
tamped it down.

Step 7: Set Intermediate Post Holes Along the String Line

If the structure requires

intermediate posts, string lines between the corner posts are used to line
up the intermediate ones.

Drop a plumb bob from the correct locations along the string line, always
measuring from the same home base point, and then have your helper
drive a small stake into the ground. 
Continue measuring along the string line to find the remaining post hole
locations.
In our photo we had set the first post at our home base - the stage front
right corner in this case - and backfilled so that the post was absolutely
solid and plumb.

Once the four corner posts were set, backfilled, and solid, correctly in
place, then using the batter boards, the orange layout strings, and a
measuring tape (and the deck plans) we used a second set of strings (red
in the photo shown here and white in the earlier photo above) to give the
exact location of the face of each post.

The horizontal distance for the intermediate posts was set always by
measuring with the dumb-end (starting point) of our measuring tape at the
deck/stage home base corner.

At that point we drilled holes for the remaining posts. You can see the soil
was dense clay so digging was out of the question. We hired a local post
hole driller who had a huge auger mounted to his tractor.

In the photo above I'm the carpenter standing, pointing to his right, back to
camera, giving instructions that are being pointedly-ignored by everyone
else in the work crew.

Below: once our posts were set in approximate location and rough-trimmed
to a few inches above their anticipated finish-height (to allow space for
accurate cutting to level the structure), each post was held in exact position
both from the corner as well as plumb. In that position the post-hole was
back-filled with ready-mix concrete and then atop that, soil.

We discuss this deck post installation job at DECK POST CONSTRUCTION.

Because this structure was being built in a freezing climate, the buried
portion of each post was wrapped in two layers of 6-mil poly - a measure to
prevent frost lift of the posts by ice lensing.
Those details are at FOUNDATION DAMAGE by ICE LENSING.

Step 8: Secure Ledgers or Beams to the Posts

The sooner we can get framing attached to our rows of posts the more-
securely they'll stay in line.

Below is a photo later in the construction of the Summerblue stage - once

the posts were all in place we attached the three main deck beams.

In our photo above workers are also tacking a few of our heavy 2" T&G
treated wood deck board in place as a temporary brace to keep the three
post and beam structures rigidly in place until the intermediate deck joists
could be installed.

HOW TO LAYOUT A BUILDING

Introduction

Setting out a building is the process of transferring architectural proposals from drawings into

the ground. It establishes the location points for site boundaries, foundations, columns, centre-lines
of walls and other necessary structural parts. Also, it establishes the buiding's correct extent, angle
and level. The whole structure will be located and erected according to the initial setting out.

Accurate setting out is therefore a fundamental part of the construction works, and errors can be very
expensive and time consuming to correct. It should only be undertaken by competent persons, and
all work should be thoroughly checked, preferably by different personnel.

Setting out is usually undertaken once the site has been subject to a condition survey and desk study,
and has been cleared of any debris, unwanted vegetation or obstructions. Works necessary to create
required levels may also have been completed before the layout process begins.
The position and orientation of the structure is generally described
in architect's or engineer’s drawings and defining precisely how the layout should be arranged.

Controlling dimensions and references on the plans will determine the positioning of the building, and

in particular its foundations. These include; overall length and width, distances to road centre-lines
and to other structures, internal structural measurements, approaches and rights-of-way and so on.

The controlling points of the structure can then be marked so that the construction team is able to

easily identify them. This usually consists of marking the building’s corners, horizontal and vertical
positions, using stakes, batter boards with string lines, drill holes, cut-and-fill notations, and other
methods.

Temporary Bench Mark (TBM)

A temporary bench mark is a fixed point with a known elevation, usually ground floor level.

Establishing it should be undertaken at an early stage. It is the fixed point which kicks-off the setting
out and to which all levels are related. Where possible the TBM should relate to an ordnance bench
mark. On the site, it could relate to any permanent fixture, such as a manhole cover or firmly-
driven post. Typically, it is signified by a peg or steel angle that is coveniently located (eg near the site
office) and concreted in or fenced off with low-level timberwork.

As minus signs are easily misread, the TBM position should enable all other levels to be positive. The
TBM should be clearly indicated on all drawings, with all levels and vertical dimensions expressed
in metres to three decimal places in relation to it.

Baseline

Typically the first layout task is establishing a baseline to which all the setting out can be related. The
baseline is a straight reference line in respect to which the building’s corners are located on
the ground. It often coincides with the ‘building line’, which is the boundary of the area, or the
outer boundary of a road or curb, often demarcated by the local authority.

Horizontal controls

These are the points that have known coordinates with respect to a specific point. Other points such

as layout corners can then be located. Numerous control points should be used so that each point of
the plan can be precisely located on the ground.

Vertical controls

These enable design points to be positioned at their correct levels. The vertical control points are

established relative to specified vertical datum – often a timber post set in concrete. But it can also be
a specific height from a nearby road or land feature.
Horizontal and vertical controls are generally established during the levelling phase using
a theodolite or similar instrument. For more information, see Surveying instruments.

Levels on site-layout plans should be denoted in metres to three decimal places, eg 32.350. Also,

intended levels should be written in a box, while existing levels can be written normally. An 'x' or '+'
should be used on plans to denote the exact point to which a level applies

Building layout

For a simple building layout, such as a rectangle, the outline of the building is marked by a line tied to
corner posts - a nail in the top of the post can be used to attach the line to. A theodolite, site square
or builder’s square is used to turn off 90-degree angles for the remaining corners. Ranging rods may
be required to establish a straight line between corner posts.

Corner posts are usually 50 x 50mm timber posts driven firmly into the ground, with a nail in

the post’s centre. The outline may be marked on the ground with dry lime or similar
powder. Timber profile boards can be used at the corners. Profile boards are typically between 0.6-1m
in height and comprise two 50 x 50mm posts driven at least 600mm into the ground, with a 150 x
38mm crossboard.

Where the outline of a building is more complex than a simple rectangle, it may be necessary to
establish a range of points in the same way as for laying out a simple rectangle. However, great care
is required, as small errors are more likely to be introduced as more points are positioned. Often the
easiest way of laying out an irregular building shape is to first lay out a large rectangle which will
enclose the entire building or the greater part of it. Once this is done, deductions and alterations can
be made to obtain the precise layout required.

Trenches

The layout of trenches establishes the excavation size, shape and direction, as well as the width and

position of walls. Trenches are excavated once the building outline has been set out. The width is
often marked with a line of dots of dry lime powder for accurate excavation by hand, whereas the
centre line is marked for accurate machine excavation.

Outline profile boards are often used to control trench positioning, width and depth. In order that they
do not obstruct the excavation work, profile boards should be set up at least 2m clear of
the trench positions. The level of the profile crossboard should be related to the site datum and fixed
at a convenient height above ground level, often with cords strung between two profiles at either end
of the trench. Bands can be painted on the crossboard for identification purposes.

Pegs are often driven into the bottom of the trench to mark the top of the concrete strip that is
subsequently poured.
The corners of walls are transferred from intersecting cord lines to mortar spots on
the concrete foundations, using a spirit level for accuracy.

Th cutting of trenches needs to be undertaken with great care, especially if they are to be left open for
an extended period as there is the possibility of the sides caving in.

Reduced level excavations

The overall outline of a reduced level area can be set out working from a baseline. Corner posts are
fixed to the outline of the excavation area and the outline marked with dry sand or similar material. To
control the depth of the excavation, sight rails are set up at a convenient height and at positions which
will enable a traveller to be used.

A traveller is a profile board with a fixed height, used for controlling excavated levels between profile
boards. By placing the traveller in the sightline between two level boards, it is possible to see whether
or not the excavation has been carried out to correct levels. The height of the traveller is the
desired level of the sight rail minus the formation level of the excavated area.

Framed building

Framed buildings are usually related to a grid, often set out from a baseline. The intersections of the
grid lines mark the centre points for isolated or pad foundations.

The layout of the grid is established using a theodolite and the grid intersections marked using pegs.
Once the grid has been set out, offset pegs or profiles can be fixed clear of any
subsequent excavation work. Control of excavation depth can be by means of a traveller sighted
between sight rails or by level and staff related to a site datum.

Construction surveys
When building roads, buildings, pipelines and other projects, it is a common task for surveying
engineer to mark locations on the ground according to a project.