Internship Report

On
Activities of Marketing and Merchandising Department
An Overview of Silken Sewing Limited

[This report has been prepared for the partial fulfillment of the degree of Bachelor of
Science (Hon’s) in Apparel Manufacture & Technology (AMT).]

Submitted By:
Golam Samdany Bhuian

ID:-161-002-45

Course Code: AMT -400

Department: Apparel Manufacture & Technology (AMT)

Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (CBIFT)

Supervised by:
Name: Abhi Mishra Das

Designation: Lecturer

Department of Apparel Manufacture & Technology (AMT)

Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (CBIFT)

st
Date of Submission: 21 December, 2019
 Letter of Transmittal
st
21 December, 2019
To
Mr. Abhi Mishra Das
Lecturer
Department of Apparel Manufacture & Technology (AMT)
Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (CBIFT)

Subject: Submission of Internship Report.

Dear Sir,
I have great pleasure to submit you my Internship report on “ Activities of Marketing
and Merchandising department at Silken Sewing Limited”. It is a fantastic
opportunity for me to prepare the report under your guidance, which really is a great
experience. During preparation of this paper, I have tried my best to ensure completeness.
I have put my best effort to overcome my shortcoming and prepare the report to the best
of my ability. However, if any clarifications are required, I would be glad to provide them
as best as I can. For any further clarification I would always be available.

Yours Sincerely,

……………………..
Golam Samdany Bhuian
ID: 161-002-45
Batch: 161
Department: Apparel Manufacture & Technology (AMT)
Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (CBIFT)
 Student’s Declaration

I, Golam Samdany Bhuian, a student of Bachelor of Science (Hon’s) in Apparel

Manufacture & Technology of 161 batch, ID: 161-002-45 at the Department of Apparel
Manufacture & Technology, Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology, do
hereby declare that the internship report on “Activities of Marketing and
Merchandising department at Silken Sewing Limited” is a work done under the
supervision of Mr. Abhi Mishra Das, Lecturer, Department of Apparel Manufacture &
Technology (CBIFT).

I also declare that this report is an original work and no part of this report has been copied
from elsewhere. Furthermore, this report has not been published or submitted for being
awarded any degree, diploma or recognition earlier.

……………………………..
Golam Samdany Bhuian
Program: B. Sc. (Hon’s)
ID: 161-002-45
Batch: 161
Department: Apparel Manufacture & Technology (AMT)
Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (CBIFT)
 Supervisor’s Declaration

This is to certify that Golam Samdany Bhuian, Program: B.Sc. (Hon’s) in Apparel
Manufacture & Technology, Batch:161, ID: 161-002-45 has completed his internship
report on “Activities of Marketing and Merchandising department at Silken
Sewing Limited” at Silken Sewing Ltd.” under my supervision as a part of partial
fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of B.Sc. (Hon’s) in Apparel
Manufacture & Technology in the Department of Apparel Manufacture &
Technology (AMT) of Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology
(CBIFT).

This report can be accepted for evaluation.

…………………………
Abhi Mishra Das

Lecturer

Department of Apparel Manufacture & Technology (AMT)

Chattogram BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology (CBIFT)

 Acknowledgement

At first I thanks to Almighty God to give me ability and strength to build and complete
this report successfully. It is a great pleasure for me to submit the term paper, which is an
outcome of my preparing internship report on “Activities of Marketing and
Merchandising department at Silken Sewing Limited”

It was really a great challenge for me to prepare the report. This study was supported and
encouraged by many persons. I would like to express my heart full gratitude to them.

First of all, I would like to express my heartiest gratitude to my honorable course teacher
& supervisor Mr. Abhi Mishmarkra Das, Lecturer, Department of AMT, Chattogram
BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology helped me all the way through. I was
enriched by his kind, encouragement and co-operation. I would not complete. This study
is not successful without his responsible guidance, instructions, persuasions and advices. I
really want to express our gratitude to him for giving valuable advice and time, which
helped immensely in preparing this paper. I would like to thank to my institute for giving
me permission to take and Silken Sewingfor survey their company all the information to
prepare this report. It was not possible for me to complete a Hard task without such help.
 Executive Summary

Apparel Manufacturing’s students have to do an internship program as a practical

orientation to the workplace, where he can amalgamate the traditional hypothetical
knowledge with practical work experience. I have completed my internship on
“Activities of Marketing and Merchandising department at Silken Sewing Limited”.

Silken Sewing is one of the largest groups in Bangladesh and well GDP contributor. It is
a world class casual wear manufacturing company. Here the production process runs from
fabric to finished garment.
When the tech pack is received from buyer, Merchandisers normally send the techpack to
the sampling department for development purpose. After developing the sample with raw
fabrics, send the sample to wash department for washing purpose & to get the actual
washing effect as per buyer requirement.
Sample & washing department is an important department for any textile and garments
industry. This plays a vital role on developing a product. Every order firstly comes into
Marketing and Merchandising department via merchandiser by mail or swatch. The
sampling & washing experts analyze these samples and match it with their developed
samples. Work started in the development sampling stage when they research for the
development of a new style to get up to the mark in the washing process and washed
garments outlook. The sample department involved with Washing. Washing is very
sensitive and risky process. When sampling development is running for a new order, the
Washing section develops washing requirements as per buyer provided sample or picture
to prove washing factory are capable to do bulk washing. They also called a technical
section in the washing factory. Washing section involved with all washing development
in the pre-bulk production stage of garments such as fabric blanket washing, taking the
approval of shade band, development sample washing, taking approval from buying a
house. Washing section also washes 1st batch of bulk production, responsible for 1st
batch washing requirements and guide the production team about bulk washing.
This report is completed based on my six week internship in Silken Sewing Limited
under Tom-Tailor merchandising Team.

At first I highlighted here general introduction about the company, Secondly I discussed
about the different sectors of the company and briefly discussed about those sectors that
directly and indirectly plays an important role for “Activities of Marketing and
Merchandising department at Silken Sewing Limited”. In this report, as I was in washing
& sampling department I tried my best to prepare the report with necessary documents.
 Table of Contents

Chapter One: Introduction............................................................................................... 1

1.1 Introduction ................................................................................................................ 2

1.3 Methodology .............................................................................................................. 4

1.4 Scopes of the study ..................................................................................................... 5

1.5 Limitation of the study ............................................................................................... 5

Chapter Two: Company profile ....................................................................................... 6

Introduction of Silken Sewing
2.1 Limited ........................................................................ 7

2.3 Management Structure of Silken Sewing................................................................... 12

2.4 Objectives of the company: ...................................................................................... 14

Profile of Silken
2.5 Sewing............................................................................................. 15
Code of conduct of Silken Sewing
2.7 Limited ................................................................ 19
Buyers of the Silken Sewing
2.11 Ltd.. ............................................................................. 24

2.13 Histogram ............................................................................................................... 25

Social program of Silken Sewing
2.14 Limited................................................................ 25

2.15 Awards & Accreditation: ....................................................................................... 27

2.16 Tom Tailor.............................................................................................................. 30

Chapter Three: Different Department of Silken Sewing
Limited ................................. 36

3.1 Merchandising Department ...................................................................................... 37

3.2 Fabric Section/Department ....................................................................................... 42

3.3 Lab Section ............................................................................................................... 43

3.5 CAD Dept. & Marker Making ................................................................................. 47

3.6 Cutting ...................................................................................................................... 52

 3.7 Sewing Department..................................................................................................55

3.8 Printing Section........................................................................................................56

3.9 Industrial Engineering..............................................................................................64

3.10 Finishing Section....................................................................................................66

Chapter Four: Focusing Department.............................................................................71

(Activities of Sampling & Washing department)..........................................................71

Sampling:....................................................................................................................... 72

Washing :........................................................................................................................72

Development 1............................................................................................................... 73

Development 2............................................................................................................... 75

3 Training Program........................................................................................................ 76

Chapter Five: - Critical Analysis....................................................................................98

Chapter Six: - SWOT Analysis.....................................................................................100

Chapter Seven: -Recommendations.............................................................................103

Conclusion...................................................................................................................... 105

List of Figure

Figure 1 : Auto spreader m/c............................................................................................. 52

Figure 2: Auto cutter m/c...................................................................................................53
Figure 3: straight knife cutter m/c......................................................................................53
Figure 4: Gerber.................................................................................................................54
Figure 5: Pigment Print......................................................................................................57
Figure 6: High Density print..............................................................................................58
Figure 7: Crack print..........................................................................................................59
Figure 8: Different sizes of glitter Figure 9:Glitter Print....59
Figure 10: Foil Print...........................................................................................................60
Figure 11: Silicon Print......................................................................................................61
Figure 12: Emboss Print.....................................................................................................62
Figure 13: Flock print........................................................................................................ 63
Figure 14: Development 1................................................................................................. 74
Figure 15: Development 2................................................................................................. 75
Figure 16: Process flowchart of sample making................................................................76
Figure 17: Marker Making.................................................................................................78
Figure 18: Machine Whiskering........................................................................................ 84
Figure 19: Pattern Whiskering...........................................................................................84
Figure 20: Hand Scrapping................................................................................................ 85
Figure 21:Tagging..............................................................................................................85
Figure 22: PP spray............................................................................................................86
Figure 23: PP Sponging.....................................................................................................87
Figure 24: Denim Grinding................................................................................................87
Figure 25: Denim Blasting.................................................................................................88
Figure 26: Rinse Washed...................................................................................................89
Figure 27: Garments Wash............................................................................................... 89
Figure 28: Acid Wash........................................................................................................ 91
Figure 29: Tie wash........................................................................................................... 92
Figure 30: Rubber Ball Wash............................................................................................ 92

List of Table

Table 1: General information.............................................................................................23

Table 2: Buyers production capacity................................................................................. 24
Table 3: Overview Of TOM-Tailor................................................................................... 32
Table 4: Machine Used in Sample Section........................................................................81
Chapter One: Introduction
1.1 Introduction

Bangladesh is the second largest exporter of ready -made garment products in the world
for last three decades which exported over 132 Countries around the world. It’s estimated
to double from 2010 to 2015 and nearly triple by 2022. The total export of Bangladesh
has crossed the USD 30.18 billion mark for the first time in the history which is 13.83%
growth during the last fiscal year. The growth of this industry has been dramatic,
increasing from 30 factories in 1980, to over 6000 in 2014. The RMG sector provides
direct employment to around 4.4 million people, 80% of whom are women. Around 20
million people are directly and indirectly depending on this sector.

Bangladesh offers not only a low competitive cost but also ensures best quality products
for the high-end garment products to famous global brands such as Adidas, Benetton,
Calvin Klein, Diesel, DKNY, G-Star, Hugo Boss, Nike, Puma, Ralph Lauren and Tommy
Hilfiger. Bangladesh RMG Sector has duty-free market access to most of the developed
countries including EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, Japan, and Australia. There are
more than 18 lucks people engaged in this sector. So their purchasing powers increases
and a group of consumer also created by this sector. More than 8 lucks people are
engaged in different accessories industry to earn their money. As a result our
unemployment reduces beside our socio-economic position also developed. It is true that,
for bright future of Bangladesh the contribution of this sector cannot be neglected. But
now a day there are some internal socio- political problems and for international
depression there is a possibility to reduce our export. Now Bangladeshis is in the 7’Th
position in EU, in exporting ready-made garments (RMG). This is the appropriate time to
solve problem and capture foreign market otherwise we cannot increase our market share
for readymade garments. The following report is prepared on “Marketing and
Merchandising department activities at Silken Sewing Limited. The main objective of the
study is to evaluate the production, marketing, accounting, financial principles as well as
overall performance of the Silken Sewing Ltd..

As a graduating student of Chattogram BGMEA institute, I have chosen to complete one

and a half month internship program in this field to learn something regarding
merchandising at Silken Sewing Limited. Silken Sewing Ltd. is a 100% export oriented
garments manufacturing industry. It has started commercial production in 1994. It’s a
private limited company and it is a “C” category company that means there are 100%
local investors.It is located at Baniarchala, Vobanipur, Gazipur, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
1.2 Objectives

When a researcher making or preparing any report he should select objective at first. An
objective refers a frame work for the development of strategy. Generally in conduction of
any work have its own objectives and features. Moreover the major objective is to know
the procedure is given below. Another main objective is discovering the present situation
of RMG sector of our country and find out problem of these sector and impact of global
recession on this sector. I also tried to lay down some recommendations which can use
for overcoming the impact of global recession. For doing this task I used Silken Sewing
Ltd as a model. The rest of the objectives of this report are as follows:

Comparison between class room learning and practical learning.

Knowledge gather about RMG sector related other organization.
To achieve new idea about knit garments manufacturing process.
To know about the management and technical process of apparel industry.
To know the management Procedure in Garments Industry.
To mark a comment over the whole Internship Report.
To mark out the important part of Internship Report.
To focus on the valuable part of Internship Report
To get an overall idea about Silken Sewing Limited.

To know about the activities of different department of Silken Sewing Limited.

To know about the Merchandising procedure of “JD Williams” buyer.
To find out critical analysis based on my theoretical knowledge & practical
experience.
To determine the SWOT analysis of sampling & washing.
To suggest possible recommendation.
1.3 Methodology
This report has been prepared based on the experience gained during the period of
internship. The significant feature of the report is the use of both primary and secondary
data. Primary data has been collected by direct interview method and focus group method.
The secondary data or the sources of secondary data were as manuals, papers, reports,
periodicals, documents and records of the organization.

This report is based on primary and secondary information. Both primary and secondary
information have been utilized in designing and preparing this report.

Primary data:

For collecting primary data, a structured questionnaire was developed to interview

persons directly involved in the organization. In order to collect primary data, the
following methods have been applied:

i. Interview – Direct interview method was used to collect information for preparing
this report.

ii. Observation- Own observation has been used to collect information.

iii. Discussion with various officers and workers.

Secondary data:

To collect secondary data had to depend on various source of information on the internet,
articles related to the topic and documents provided by the company.
1.4 Scopes of the study

 Factory
 Discussion
 Internet
 Senior colleagues and university seniors.
 Various books and relevant paper which is related with apparel industry.

1.5 Limitation of the study

 Time constraint
 Merchandiser doesn’t have enough time to give the information elaborately.
 Short time visit in different work stations
 Lack of organizing chain of command
 Lack of instruction book, and any change. They are following traditional business
Chapter Two: Company profile
2.1 Introduction of Silken Sewing Limited

Silken Sewing Ltd is the Bangladesh’s one of the fastest growing and comprehensive
manufacturer in the clothing industry, since it was founded in 2008. It’s the proven
number one manufacturer to work with. With a turnover in excess of $21M, with a
monthly capacity of 1m pieces of our factories is claimed as one of highly regarded
Bangladeshi’s manufacturer for Jersey Top, Nightwear, Sweats & Hoodies. It proudly
celebrates over 10 years of continuous growth, always offering highest quality, service
and value for the money. Our newly established design and support office in the UK, we
offer in-house design expertise and have factories and internal teams that specialise in
different products, meaning brands and retailers can come to us for everything. Our
factory is fully compliant with international standards to provide top quality and high
efficiency. In addition, we collaborate with networks of suppliers, who adhere to our
standards both in quality and sustainability. We are proud members of the Sedex ethical
compliance group. All units have end-of-line Quality Control systems and adopt AQL
inspection levels according to the requirements of each customer.

Sustained by the global network of partners and suppliers, Silken Sewing Ltd specializes
in design and high-tech production of high-volume, time-sensitive fashion garments and
collections for retailers across UK, EU and Australia. Using a lean management approach
and Fast React software solution that provide improved visibility, clear priorities and
better coordination, leading to improved operational efficiency, we reach an average total
production capacity of 1,200,000 units per month.
The management team is composed of some of the most experienced professionals in the
Apparel industry. Moreover, each senior executive is guided by an entrepreneurial
approach and a deep knowledge of geography and the product line. This depth of
executive experience provides a strong and talented team that has been instrumental in
Silken Sewing’s continuous growth and success.
In addition to guaranteeing the quality of the finished garments, constant quality control
at each stage of production is maintained. The Silken sewing Ltd. plans extensively in
order to make sure the processes are efficient and meet the objectives. In house quality
team members ensure that every garment is sourced, designed, manufactured and
delivered in the right way to obtain a satisfactory end result to make the business
successful.
 Factory at a glance:

Silken Sewing Limited

Factory Name

Head Office:
 House No-33, Road No-03,
Sector-5
Location Uttara, Dhaka.
Factory:
 Baniar Chala, Member Bari
Gazipur, Dhaka.

E
2008
Establishment Year

100% Export oriented garments industry

Business Type

Ownership Private Limited company

Factory area
3 Acres

Total Manpower 1900

Capacity per Month

1 million pieces garments.

Present Export Revenue 19 million USD /year

Export Target within 2020 25 million USD

2.3 Management Structure of Silken Sewing

Vision of Silken Sewing Limited.

To become Bangladesh’s leading company in the export of ready-made clothing and to
become the strategic partner of preference for the world’s main fashion brands

Mission of Silken Sewing Limited.

To become a leading ready-made clothing company, which adds value to its customers,
provides sustainability of suppliers and keeps its employees highly motivated. We do so
by offering a wide range of products and services, flexibility, speed and quality all
together, through proactive and innovative approaches

Policies and procedures:

 Silken Sewing Limited never compromise with the quality and

standards

 Silken Sewing committed to continue the improvement & providing

advanced technology.

 Maintain cordial relations with all stakeholders, namely- customers or

buyers, suppliers and employees
 Fight against dishonesty, fraud and corruption as and when it occurs.
 Recognize the contribution of each individual and assist others to make
meaningful contribution.
 Equal rights for all and no discrimination in any field,
 Always ensure maximum utilization of resources,

 Ensure health and safety of workers and encourage an environment

conducive for work
Deputy General Manager

Accounts

Asst. General Manager

CUTTING MAINTENANCE WASHING

Manager

HRD MERCHANDISING ACCOUNTS PRODUCTION STORE

Deputy Manager

HRD COMMERCIAL
ACCOUNTS

Asst. Dy manager

ACCOUNTS STORE PRODUCTION

Senior execute
junior executive
staff

w
2.8 Products of Silken Sewing Ltd.

Men’s wear T Shirt

Polo Shirt
Sweat Shirt
Hoodie

Women’s wear T Shirt

Sleep Wear
Trouser

School Uniform
Night Wear
Kid’s wear Leggings
T Shirt
Polo Shirt
2.10 General information:
General information on factory time-table, leaves, holidays, wages and others

Daily general working hour 8 hours

Weekly general working hour 48 hours

Leisure Along with lunch time

Daily over time 2 hours (if needed)

Weekly holiday 1 day (Friday)

Festival holiday in a year 12 days with full wages

Earned leave in a year 17 days with full wages

Maternity leave 112 days with basic wages

Minimum wages 5800- monthly

Maximum wages 11000/- monthly

Average wages 7000/- monthly

Mode of payment of regular workers Monthly (following Christian era)

th
General pay-day Within 7 of the following month.

Table 1: General information

2.11 Buyers of the Silken Sewing Ltd..

The major buyers of Silken Sewing Limited are listed in the given below:

Table 2: Buyers production capacity

Buyers Estimated percent to utilize

production capacity

Cotton On 36%

Debenhams 10%

Kidiliz 19%

Shop Direct 6%

DMR 10%

Dunnes 6%

Others 13%
2.12 Logo of Buyers

Figure 2: Logo of Buyers

2.16 N Brown

N Brown Group plc. (LSE: BWNG) is an online retailer headquartered in Manchester,

England. N Brown offers a range of products, predominantly clothing, footwear and home
wears with a focus on underserved customer groups. The company is listed on the London
Stock Exchange.

The oldest company within the group - JD Williams & Company Ltd - was founded by
James David Williams in 1859 when he started in business operating three mobile shops. In
1882, he took advantage of the introduction of UK's parcel post service, to send his
company's products direct to his customers. In 1907, JD Williams instructed architect R
Argile to build Langley Buildings in a baroque style on Dale Street in Manchester's Northern
Quarter: this building still stands today.

In 1963, All Williams' family shares were bought by Cooper-Taymil Ltd (a subsidiary of
Alliance Brothers Ltd. owned by Lord David Alliance CBE and Sir Nigel Alliance OBE) and
placed in holding company N Brown Investments. In 1970, N Brown Group acquired JD
Williams shares along with mail-order catalogues Ambrose Wilson and Oxendales.

In 1986, N Brown Investments acquired the JD Williams group in a reverse takeover to

secure a public quotation. The company name was changed to N Brown Group plc.

In 2004, the business moved to new premises on Lever Street in Manchester's Northern
Quarter.

Lord Alliance stepped down as chairman in 2012 with Andrew Higginson joining that
September.

In 2014, N Brown outsourced 550 contact centre roles to Serco. That year it also issued two
profit warnings within six months.

Angela Spindler joined as Chief Executive in 2013, succeeding Alan White, who had been in
the top job since 1984.

In 2018, Matt Davies was announced as the new chairman of N Brown Group.
In 2017, shares fell by as much as 9pc when N Brown announced it was facing a £40m hit
after finding issues with a credit insurance product it sold to customers between 2006 and
2014, responding to a crackdown by the Financial Conduct Authority.

In 1999, Simply Be was launched to cater for women aged 25 - 45 in sizes 12 - 32 and has
been a vocal champion of size inclusivity.

In 2007, Jacamo was launched, catering for 25 - 45 year old men of all body shapes, from
small to 5XL. Former cricketer Freddie Flintoff is a key brand ambassador.

In 2018, JD Williams rebranded to become JD Williams: The Life Store, positioning the
brand as a modern online department store for the 45 – 60 year old woman.

Fashion World, Figleaves, Marisota, High & Mighty, Ambrose Wilson, Premier Man, Julipa
and House of Bath are also operated by N Brown as well as the Ireland-based Oxendales.
Simply Be and JD Williams also have US websites.

The company bought online underwear retailer Figleaves for £11.5 million in 2010.

Simply Be, Jacamo and High & Mighty operate bricks & mortar stores throughout the UK.
The company announced it was closing five loss-making stores in 2017. After announcing, in
June 2018, that it was proposing to close all bricks and mortar stores, the company had
completely implemented that decision by August 2018.
Short process flow of the Tom-Tailor buyer order execution:

Order received from the Buyer in details

↓
Sample Development
↓
Price negotiation with the Buyer
↓
Confirmation of order and receive the order sheet
↓
Make buyer requirement sample (Fit, Proto etc.) for approval
↓
Make requisition for bulk fabric
↓
Make requisition for accessories
↓
Swatch board making and approval
↓
Raw material collection and also receive it in factory
↓
Check and also listing
↓
Make P.P with all actual
↓
Pre-production meeting
↓
Start bulk production
↓
Collect daily production and quality report
↓
Make online inspection by strong quality team
↓
Sample sent to third party testing center.
↓
Make final inspection
↓
Shipment
↓
Send all documents to the Buyer
↓
Receive payment from Bank
SL
No. Subject Job
The very first work of a
merchandiser is collecting order
Order received from from the buyer in details information
01 the Buyer in details (Art work, technical sheet).
Sample Sample should be developed by
02 Development following buyers instruction
Price negotiation In the mean time, Price should be
03 with the Buyer negotiated with the Buyer.
Confirmation of
order and receive the price fixing and collecting order
04 order sheet sheet from the Buyer.
Making Buyer
requirement sample
(Fit, Proto etc) for Should be prepared proto or fit
05 approval sample for Buyer’s approval.
Making requisition In the mean time, make fabric
06 for bulk fabric requisition for bulk production.
Making requisition  Make a requisition for the required
07 for accessories accessories of the order.
Swatch board preparing swatch board of required
08 making and approval accessories for Buyer’s approval.
Raw material
collection and also Raw materials have to collect and
09 receive it in factory receive in the factory on time.
Checking and also Check all the in-housed material
10 listing with requisite sheet.
Making P.P with all Making a P.P sample with all actual
11 actual on buyers instruction.
Arranging pre production meeting
Pre production for smooth production before bulk
12 meeting production.
Starting bulk
13 production Finally bulk production started
14 Collecting daily Production and quality report
 production and
quality report should be collected regularly.
Making online During bulk production making
inspection by strong online inspection by strong quality
15 quality team team.
For making a strong approval about the
Sample sent to third quality of the product sending sample in
16 party testing centre third party testing center.
Making final Making a final inspection for the
inspection of bulk order after completing bulk
17 production production.
After making final inspection of the product,
18 Shipment all the garments will be sent to the Buyer.
All the documents about the order
Sending all are sent to the buyer after sending
documents to the the full order quantity for receiving
19 Buyer payment.
Receiving payment Finally the payment received from
20 from Bank the Bank.
 Chapter Three: Different
Department of Silken Sewing
Limited
 3.1 Merchandising Department

Garments merchandising means the work to buy raw material and accessories to produce
garments (Merchandise) against a particular work order of garment and have to export these
under the same work order within time schedule, maintaining required quality level of buyer.
The Merchandising is the important activities, term and section of a garment that is not
possible to run and deliver successfully. The term “merchandising” is well known to the
persons specially involved in garments trade. The term merchandising has been derived from
the term merchandise. Merchandise means good that are bought & sold.

Merchandising
Merchandising is a business on marketing activities responsible for ensuring a products
description both quality and quantity. Merchandising means total responsibility of a
Merchandiser.
Merchandiser
Duty of merchandiser describes himself like this-
57 | P a g e

 A man who collects order from customer sourcing raw materials production on time with
quality and maintains lead time.  Garments merchandising means buying raw materials &
accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the
garments within scheduled time.

If anybody has to be designated as Merchandiser then the word itself demands some qualities
from that individual, now let us see what all are the hidden meanings there in the word
„‟MERCHANDISER¨.

 M- Should have good Managerial capacity.

 E- Efficient in both English written and spoken.
 R- Having high sense of Responsibility.
 C- Always keep commitment.
 H- Leads Honest life.
 A- Attitude should always be positive in resolving any problem.
 N- Never does any argue with buyers and seniors.
 D- Fully Devoted to his service.
 I- Always well Informed about his all orders.
 S- Sincere in office and daily works.
 E- Enthusiastic in nature.
 R- Regular in e-mail correspondence.

Most importance things for a Merchandiser is

Communication. Planning Production Follow Up

The responsibilities of a smart Merchandiser are handling order at four stages.

1. Sourcing for future orders/Buyers 2. New Order 3. Confirmed Order 4. Running Order

Following are the main responsibilities of merchandisers.

 Internal & external communication,

 Sampling,

 Labdips,

 Accessories & trims,

 Preparing internal order sheets,

 Preparing purchase orders,

 Advising and assisting production,

 Advising quality department about quality level,

 Mediating production and quality departments,

 Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,

 Helping documentation department,

 Taking responsibility for inspections and

 Following shipment.

 Regularly communicate with buying house, suppliers, buyer liaison office etc.

 Successfully Ensure all department activity those are related to shipment.

There are many works which are very essential for a merchandiser. But the most
important work is PO (Purchase Order) analysis. The things which are includes in PO
sheet are given below.
PO Sheet Analysis
This is the technical document by which buyer gives all details of the order. Suppliers
make the product on the basis of PO.
Basic information of PO:
 BOM
 Buyer name
 Color breakdown
 Size breakdown
 Designed by
  Date of creation
 PO no
 Packing ratio
 Packing details
 Printing and embroidery details
 Style no
 Season
 Shipping date
 Shipping mark
 Item name
 Order quantity
 Fabric content
 Fabric
 GSM/EPI-PPI

Internal & External Communication:

Earlier, we had seen the importance of communication with buyers. By the same way,
internal communication is also very much valuable. As the other departments will follow
the instructions given by the merchandising department, they have very high value. Other
departments don't know the buyer's instructions; they know only the merchandising
department's instructions. So it is the sole responsibility of merchandising department to
instruct other departments the specifications and instructions of buyer's orders clearly
 Process Flow Chart of Merchandising:

Receive product package form buyer

↓
Sample development
↓
Price negotiation
↓
Order confirmation and receive order sheet.
↓
Sourcing acceptable quality goods right time
↓
Material collection and receive it in factory

↓
Check and listing
↓
↓

Swatch card making and approval

↓
Pre-production meeting
↓
Daily collect daily production report and daily quality report
↓
Arrange final inspection
↓
Shipment
Function of Merchandiser

It allows organizations like merchants (retailers) to understand demand based on issues

like demographics, store locations, shelves, and support to purchasing as well as the
positioning of merchandise in the retail channel.

 Evaluates or creates merchandise plan by trading partner

 Creates a category plan

 When an export order is placed to a merchandiser, He or she has to schedule

the following main functions to execute the order perfectly on time:
 Fabric requirement calculations
 Accessories requirement calculation (e.g. thread, button, interning, label, poly
bag, carton etc.)
 Sourcing of yarn & fabrics
 Sourcing of accessories

 Possible date of arrival of fabrics & accessories in the garments factory

 Costing

 Garments production planning with the help of production DGM.

 Pre –shipment inspection schedule

 Shipping documents.

Qualities of Merchandiser
Some professional qualities that a merchandiser should have are given below:

 Good knowledge in English.

 Good computer skill.

 Good knowledge in mathematics.

 Always be courageous and active.

 Effectively diplomatic.

 Diversified language capacity.

 Good knowledge in sample.

 Strong knowledge about textile

 Strong knowledge in different lab test.

 Good knowledge in garment production.

  Knowledge on different washing and finishing.
 Knowledge on banking, commercial and shipping.

 Need to have at least related training.

 Ability to take high mental pressure.

 Knowledge about sea and air freight.

 Good knowledge in costing and consumption.

 Maintain TNA.

 Never do anything on assumption.

3.2 Fabric Section/Department

LAB mainly deals with the fabric activities. The basic function of this department
includes the following-

 Inspection of fabric
 Shade grouping

 Shrinkage testing

 Color fastness test

Fabric inspection department is responsible to conduct various types of tests to inspect the
fabrics. These tests are of two types-

 Physical test
 Color fastness test

There are some tests which includes the physical test. These are –

 Stability wash
 Durability wash

Weight per square meter

 Label wash
 Assessment of non-iron fabric

 Teflon test

Color fastness test include the following tests-

 Washing by using detergent

 Water

 Rubbing
Test report is prepared by lab technician and it has to be approved by the fabric
technologist. If there is any problem found in the report then they inform to the store not
to issue the fabric for the production.

Fabric inspection:

Generally 10% of the total consignment of the fabric is inspected and these fabrics should
be of the same style. If there is any fault and the fault exceeds 15 point then these are not
acceptable. If such fabrics are required for the production then it has to be approved by
the advisor.

The next step is to make the swatch or cut pieces of each fabric and is then sent to the
washing department after this washing standard is checked and the fabric is tested under
the light box TL84 and D65. This instruction is given by the buyer and in shade grouping
it has to be followed strictly.

The test report is then signed by the advisor. Then there is another test called “Shrinkage
Test” which is the measurement of shrinkage percentage of the fabric. The percentage is
given to the store and sample

3.3 Lab Section

Lab section is the important section for the verification and test of the fabric, correct
shade, and color as per buyer requirement. This type of test (shade, color) submitted by
lab dip report.

Lab Dip:
A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. It is a process by which
buyer’s supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory
with or without help of spectrophotometer. Lab dip plays an important role in shade
matching & this is an important task before bulk production. In previous article of this
author we have to learn on flow chart on dyeing lab.
 Lab dip
There are different matching systems
Object of Lab Dip:
followed in Labs. They are:

1. Tube light matching.

2. Sun light matching.
3. Ultra Violet matching.
4. Sodium light matching (show room).

The main objectives in lab dip are as follows-

1. To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
2. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectrophotometer.
3. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
4. Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A, B, C & D)
Process Sequence of Lab Dip:
Lab dip plays an important role in dyeing process. Bulk dyeing process
completely depends on the lab dip development work. Lab dip is completely
managed as the following sequence.

Lab Dip Requisition from buyer

↓
Entry in the computer
↓
First recipe is given by swatch/pantone number
↓
First correction
↓
Second correction
↓
Grading of sample (A, B, C, D)
↓
↓
 Yarn and knit sample send to buyer
↓
Approved by buyer
↓
Order for bulk production
↓
Production card with approved sample and recipe send to production section.

3.4 Store Department

One of the most essential parts of the Factory is Store Department. Store is mainly
responsible for receiving and keeping of all kinds of materials and other necessary things
for production. Store collects all kinds of documents and information regarding fabrics
and accessories from Merchandising & Commercial department. The production
activities generally start from store. Each and every factory must have a store where the
raw materials are gathered. Store collect information and documents about fabrics and
accessories which are using for production. Store provides fabrics, accessories and other
necessary things for the production. All departments also get their required things from
Store. To maintain these, store department follow a regular work procedure. The basic
functions of store are defined as follows:

Receiving:

The procedure of incoming raw materials starts from the purchase order raised by the
Merchandising Department. Than the commercial department informs Merchandising and
Store about the arrival of raw materials to the factory. At the same time the commercial
department sends copy of invoices to the Store department.

There are two types of materials that are received by the Store:

 Fabrics
 Accessories.

At first store collects the invoice and packing list from the commercial department before
receiving the fabrics and accessories. After receiving the fabrics and Accessories store
makes an inventory list for checking the actual received quantity with the invoice
quantity. Here store gets 24 hours’ time for preparing the inventory report after receiving
the fabrics and 48 hours’ time for preparing the inventory report after receiving the
accessories. Then the “Headends” of the fabrics are cut for shade checking by the fabric
inspection team. Then the swatch list is prepared and the list is signed by the concerned
authorities as their approval is required to confirm the style no.

Storing:

Store keeps the fabrics, accessories and all kinds of materials which they received. They
usually follow different procedure for storing Fabrics and Accessories.

The steps of keeping fabrics are mentioned below-

I. Physical inventory of received goods.

II. Store marks with three types of sticker to indicate the condition of the received
fabrics.

 Yellow color sticker for the fabrics that are not inspected.
 Green color sticker for OK or inspected fabrics.

 Red color sticker for rejected or defected fabrics.

III. Width measurement and swatch cutting for Fabric Inspection Department.
IV. Receive the inspection report and put it to cutting module system as per shade,
shrinkage, rolls no, length and width.
V. The inspected fabrics are kept in the rack and a display board is placed there to
display information about that particular fabric.
The processes of storing accessories are as follows

 All incoming accessories must pass through in the Quarantine area.

 Inventory of all accessories.

 100% Inspection of all accessories. The accessories are inspected in order to

ensure the right quality.
 Get all kind of approval from the buyer representative.
 Arrange those accessories style wise in the rack.
Issuing:
Store issues fabrics, accessories and other things according to the requirement of various
departments.

Issuing of Fabrics:

Cutting Department submits the requisition for fabrics from the cutting module system.
Then store take the roll mentioned in the requisition and issue it also update the entry for
issue in the system.

Issuing of Accessories:

Store receives the bundle card from the production line. Then check the accessories with
the Trim Card and issue the required quantity.

Additional functions of Store:

 Prepare style wise Trim Card as per the instructions from

Merchandising.

 Prepare accessories card for production line.

 Cut Zipper, Draw cord, Tape etc. for production line as per instructed
measurement.

 Ordering of stationeries and follow up with its uses.

3.5 CAD Dept. & Marker Making

Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for
a style, fabric and distribution of sizes (source: Apparel Manufacturing, Glock and
Kunz). Now-a-day Marker making is mostly done by CAD systems which give accuracy,
increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers. During this
marker making method every specific style and part of the patterns are kept in the
computer memory and grade rule is also mentioned. To do this marker making,
computerized marker paper directly placed on fabric layer. Then the computer makes the
marker by its programming techniques. Computer Aided Design (CAD) system are
used to make marker. Comparison between manual and CAD marker making is huge.
The CAD department is accountable for the following functions:

 Determining cutting average for costing

 Making the most efficient cutting marker
 Development and alteration of patterns
 Development of size set pattern by grading
 Digitizing the pattern

Types of computerized marker making method:

Computerized marker making method is mainly two types. Such as:
i. Automatic marker making
ii. Interactive marker making
i. Automatic marker making:

To do this automatic marker making method, computer can make marker itself
according to given commands.

From this method most efficient marker can be got.

Computer makes marker with the help of permutation and combination but it required
more time.

ii. Interactive marker making:

Interactive marker making is a very common process.

Computer operator takes a marker plan by interacting directly with the system through a
computer screen.

Every pattern pieces are shown in a miniature of the screen.

Operators are transferring patterns information by the use of pen drive or tablet.
 Procedure of CAD Department

Initial Tech-pack/ PDM receive From Merch. Dept.

↓
Create a New Pattern
↓
Calculate Fabrics Consumption by Electric mini marker in Yardage Yield (YY)
↓
Send Consumption to Buyer
↓
Consumption Approval
↓
Order Confirmation
↓
Receive E-Pattern, block and Fit Sample from a buyer
↓
Pattern Grading
↓
Submit Pattern to buyer
↓
Approve→ Reject→ Remake
↓
Marker Making for Sample
↓
Shrinkage and Sewing loss adjustment
↓
Sample making for bulk production
↓
Approve sample from Buying House
↓
Marker making for size set
↓
Marker printing
↓
Cut size set
↓
PP Meeting
↓
Pattern correction
↓
Marker printing by plotter
↓
Send Marker to cutting
↓
Marker Lay
↓
Bulk cutting
Main Responsibilities of CAD department:

 CAD department made sample pattern with response to buyer requirements.

 Try to fulfill buyer expectation.
 If sample not satisfy buyers requirements then make sample until satisfying
buyer.
 When satisfy the buyer then finally handover to production.
Consideration For Marker Making:

 There are some consideration because of the fabric characteristics which need
to follow when making a marker by CAD or manual.
 Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric
 Pattern pieces normally carry a grain line. When pattern pieces are laid down
the piece of cloth, the grain line should lie parallel to the line of the warp in a
woven fabric or the wales in a knitted fabric. Where pattern pieces are laid
across the piece, the grain line should lie parallel to the weft or course
direction. If the marker planner lays down a pattern outside the stated rules for
grain lines, then the finished garment will not hang and drape correctly when
worn. This requirement to follow the grain lines restricts the freedom of the
marker planner in choosing how to lay the patterns in the marker.

Symmetry or Asymmetry
 Many fabrics can be turned round (through 180.) and retain the same
appearance are called symmetrical. They require no special attention during
marker making. Asymmetrical fabrics are those which are turned (through
180.) and do not retain the same appearance. The marker should be planned in
such a way that it is in accordance with symmetry, asymmetry of the fabric. All
pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid down
on a symmetrical fabric.
 Design characteristics of the finished garments: If a vertical stripe does not
show a complete mirror image repeat, the right and left sides of a garment may
be mirror images of each other. In this case, a pattern should be placed on
checks in such a way that the design matches when sewing up. During marker
planning, a marker maker must have to think about matching the checks and
stripes in a garment. His freedom is restricted here. So I think it¡¦s a constraints
for a marker maker.
3.6 Cutting
Generally cutting is the starting point for the production. Production floor,
Merchandising, Sample, and Store Department are directly related with the Cutting
Department. The fabric moves for the production only when they are properly cut.
Normally buyers send the cutting measurement. Fabrics are cut according to those
measurements. Before cutting the rolls of the same colors are separated so that the cutting
measurement cannot be hampered.

Appliance:

Different types of machines are used in the cutting department.

 Auto Spreader Machine (Auto Layer forming machine): Operator set the direction details
in the connected monitor and then operation is done automatically. There are 3 auto
spreader machine.

Figure 1 : Auto spreader m/c

Auto cutter m/c:

This is a auto operated, auto mover fabric cutter machine. In Silken Sewingthey use
Tuksodesk machine which is manufactured by German. They use Gerber software for
running this machine. Another benefit of this machine is this don’t make shrinkage on the
fabric which is happen due to heat by other machine. This is usually use straight knife.
 Figure 2: Auto cutter m/c

Straight knife Cutter machine: In Silken Sewingthey only use straight knife cutter
machine in bulk production. There is 21 straight knife machine.

Figure 3: straight knife cutter m/c

 End cutter machine

 Numbering (panel) machine.
 Bias machine.
 Fusing machine.
 Piping cutting.
 One side Fusing machine.
Lay-up fabric, Shorting & Numbering:

After cutting fabrics cutting department do bundle of that cut pieces. Based on different
sizes, cutting department do sorting and numbering. Numbering is done due to avoid
shading. It’s one of the most important works because pre-production meeting fixed the
limitation of using fabrics. That’s why fabric lay-up, cutting fabric sorting and numbering
all have to done very carefully.

Supplied the cut piece:

According the requirements of the garments, body are cut and then stored near the cutting dept.
after that when swing lines are needed then those is supplied.

Gerber:

Silken Sewinghas a well-organized cutting section with high technology

equipments.They use GERBER software for CAD which is called ALGOTEX M/C
(ITALY).The main software of this m/c is OPTITEX. A Software which is used to make
the Pattern and Marking according to the size requirements of the garments. That
computer oriented pattern machine has lot of benefits that are as follows:

 Reduce time
 Increase productivity
 Reduce manpower.
 More accurate.
 Faster delivery.

Figure 4: Gerber
3.7 Sewing Department
Sewing Section:

In the apparel industry or clothing industry, sewing section is the main department for
garments manufacturing. When all the garments are complete to cut in the cutting section,
all of these cutting parts are sending to sewing department for making garment. In this
section different cutting parts are joining together with the help of different types of
sewing machine, threads and needle.
Sewing Machine used in Silken Sewing:

Both automated and manual machine are used here.

Different types of manual machine used in sewing section are given below:

 Single Needle Machine,

 Double Needle Machine,
 Inter Lock Machine,
 Feed Of the Arm,
 Waist Band Machine

 Button Attach Machine

 Thread Rewinding Machine,
 Label Cutting Machine,
 Steam Iron Elc/Non Elec,
 Collar Button Cutting,
 Cuff Pressing Machine,
 Pocket Creasing Machine,
 Bottom Rolling Machine,
 Loop Making Machine,
All the sewing machines are UBT programmable machine, beside that they are following
special machines:

I. VI. BE. Mac automatic feed of the arm machine

II. Automatic pocket welt machine from German Durkop Adler machine
III. Programmable pattern sewer machine
IV. Programmable pattern taker machine
V. VI. BE. Mac automatic pocket hem machine
VI. VI. BE. Mac automatic loop attach machine
VII. VI. BE. Mac automatic J stitch machine
VIII. Automatic Button holler machine
IX. VI. BE. Mac automatic waist band attach machine
X. VI. BE. Mac automatic pocket setter machine
XI. VI. BE. Mac automatic pocket eraser etc machine

3.8 Printing Section

Denim is a strong, durable fabric, once upon a time denim was worn only as working
wear. But now it is widely used as a fashion wear. The most common denim is indigo
denim, in which the warp thread is dyed, while the weft thread is left white. But giving
the most attractive looking to denim wear, different types of printing are done on denim
fabric.
In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silk-screens can be used
to place colors on the fabric. Colorants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent
the color from spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design.

Chemical Used For Printing:

There are some main essential chemical which is most used in Silken Sewingfor printing.
They are:

 Binder ET-ECO,
 White paste

 Lupp Rintol Soft Sig

 Lutexal GP-ECO

 SU-125 F
Different types of print are applied in denim wear on Silken Sewing Ltd.. Some examples
are given which I have actually seen:

 Pigment Print
 High density print

 Crack Print

 Glitter Print

 Foil Print

 Silicon Print

Their some relevant description are given below

Pigment Print: Pigment prints are insoluble color particles held on the surface of the
fabric by a binding agent. The mixture of pigment and adhesive binder is applied to the
surface by a roller, stencil or screen. Printed denim can be used all types of men’s,
women’s and children wear. For printing on denim fabric the only method can be used, is
to use pigment print to cover the dark color of denim.

In Silken Sewingbasically pigment print is done frequently on denim jeans and on

pocketing fabric for bulk production.

Figure 5: Pigment Print

High Density Print: High Density is a popular special effect that rises straight up off the
shirt and has a hard rubbery feel with sharp edges. A High density print has slight glossy
finish.
To get these effects about 20% of the puff base is taken which is then mix with colored
inks to make it 100%. The base is Vinylidene chloride based polymer and the inks are
Acrylic co-polymers.

Then it is printed in 5-8 rounds depending upon height required on normal screen ( 2
flood/ 2 strokes). After that 3 rounds of printing is given with 150 micron film screen and
then 2 rounds with 220 micron capillary film screen depending upon the height.

Figure 6: High Density print

Crack Print: Crack print is a printing method which is used to make attractive design on
fabric surface. It is near similar as rubber print. But additional crack paste is used before
applying on the rubber printing paste by the screen printer.

Printing recipe used for crack print is:

 Rubber 98%
 Fixer 2%

 And crack paste

 Figure 7: Crack print

Glitter Print: Glitter printing enables the fabric to show glittering granules on the fabric.
For this Glitter powder is used. Glitter Powder is generally PET with size of 1/8" to
1/256". It is cut into square and hexagon shape. It is available in metallic, rainbow, laser
and iridescent colors. Generally it comes in 25 kg bag. A typical glitter power substance
is heat resistant to 170 degree Celsius and is acid and alkaline proof.

To print, first glitter paste is prepared. Glitter powder is added in the Glitter ink, under
stirring slowly to avoid lamb formation. Glitter ink is made of acrylic co-polymer. Then it
is screen printed using Bull nose squeegee

Figure 8: Different sizes of glitter Figure 9:Glitter Print

Foil Print: Foil printing is to print some pattern with the foil on the fabric for shinny. Foil
printing, commonly. Foil printing, commonly called foil stamping. Foil stamping is a
specially printing process that uses heat, pressure, metal dies and foil film Foil printing is
to print some pattern with the foil on the fabric for shiny effect. Foil printing is a
sublimation transfer printing process. Foil printing is done by the help of paper. Foil
paper is solid color, which is made by buyer requirements. Printing is done in high
temperature and high pressure. In this process manmade and natural both fabric types can
be printed. Foil adheres to plastisol inks or a clear foil adhesive. Available in silver, gold,
bronze, red, and blue.

Recipe: This is a simple recipe. This can be changed on the depth of the color and types
of dyes use.

Foil paste---90%, Fixer --10%

Figure 10: Foil Print

Silicon Print: Silicone Inks have a high degree of stretch and durability in the wash
process. They have a low cure temperature, making it the ideal ink choice for 100%
polyester performance fabrics, web suits, swimsuits, and sublimated polyester fabrics.
Silicone Inks possess superb adhesion and extreme elasticity.
 Figure 11: Silicon Print
Rarely Used Printing Process:

Which I observe that this two types of printing process is rarely done on Silken Sewingfor
bulk production. Whereas Flock printing is just in developing stage, the equipment’s are
recently installed. & they develop one or two sample of flock print.

Emboss Print: Emboss print is not as available as pigment, foil or crack print. It is
specially done for logo making or creating special kind of glossy effect on fabric. It is
done by embossing printing paste on to the surface of the fabric or material. After
applying printing paste the textile surface need to cure for 15 min at 170 degree Celsius
temperature.

Recipe:

 Rubber Paste 49%

 Emboss paste 49%

 Fixer 2%
.

Figure 12: Emboss Print

Flock Print: Flock printing or flocking is a printing process in which short fibers of rayon,
cotton, wool or another natural or synthetic material are applied to an adhesive-coated
surface. This adds a velvet or suede-like texture to the surface. Since the fibers can be
dyed, flocking can also add a color to a printed area.

Application method: Four types of application method is generally accomplished.

 Electrostatic
 Beater bar/ Gravity
 Spraying
 Transfers

Procedure: These types of printing technique consist of the application of flock (very
short fiber) to the surface of a fabric by means of an adhesive. The flock may be
contained in the adhesive paste, may be dusted onto it, or applied electrostatically to hold
it erect. This is used to print various small designs onto the fabric, such as dots and
figures, especially on light-weight or sheer fabric. Flocking is defined as the application
of fine particles to adhesive coated surfaces. Nowadays, this is usually done by the
application of a high-voltage electric field.

In Silken Sewing flock print is done by apply adhesive paste on the fabric surface as
design of mesh and then dust the flock onto it
.

Figure 13: Flock print

Screen Preparation:
For screen preparation of the printing there are some steps which need to follow.
o First of all Photomation chemical is needed to apply on the tracing paper.
o Then the film is placed on which the design is formed. For create a design on film it is
cost 15-20 taka. So it is necessary to be careful.
o After the placement of film the screen placed on the exposure m/c for at high pressure
which is need to set the film on tracing paper and use scratcher for mesh fitting
o When the film is settled on the tracing paper with required design then it need to wash
off with high pressure of water.
o Finally chemical named Hunda applied for give strength on the mesh and to fix the
dice strongly.

Here it is all. And during my internship I have seen this procedure to follow for screen
preparation.
3.9 Industrial Engineering
Industrial engineering is an engineering profession that is concerned with the
optimization of complex processes, systems, or organizations by developing, improving
and implementing integrated systems of people, money, knowledge, information,
equipment, energy and materials.

Industrial engineers use specialized knowledge and skills in the mathematical, physical,
and social sciences, together with the principles and methods of engineering analysis and
design, to specify, predict, and evaluate the results obtained from systems and processes.
From these results, they are able to create new systems, processes or situations for the
useful coordination of labor, materials and machines and also improve the quality and
productivity of systems, physical or social. Depending on the sub-specialties involved,
industrial engineering may also overlap with, operations research, systems
engineering, manufacturing engineering, production engineering, management science,
management engineering, financial engineering, ergonomics or human factors
engineering, safety engineering, or others, depending on the viewpoint or motives of the
user.

In Silken SewingIE department I work on some specific sub section of IE. Work study is
one of them.

Work Study:

Work study is the systematic examination of the methods of carrying on activities so as to

improve the effective use of resources and to set up standards of performance for the
activities being carried out. Two types of study of are followed

 Method Study

 Time Study (Work Measurement)

Method study:

Method Study is a systematic recording and critical examination of doing things in order
to make improvements. There are many process of achieving this objective-
 Use of Special Machines
 Use of Special Methods
 Appropriate Combination of Men & Machines

Work measurement:

Work Measurement is the application of techniques designed to establish a standard time

for a qualified worker to carry out a task at a defined rate. The functions that are to be
done are –

 Operation Break Down

 Directing, Controlling & Corrective Action

Target:

Another important part is to calculate SMV for particular garments in calculation for
costing by merchandiser. They measure the smv with the help of considering working
hours, number of workers, running efficiency and target production.

Working minutes x Number of Operator x Efficiency

SMV Target production = -------------------------------------------------------------
SMV x Number of Production

SMV x Number of Production

Efficiency = ---------------------------------------------------- x 100
%
Number of Operators x Working Minutes

Operation breakdown:

This is the combination of the following works-

 Sequencing of Works
 Machine Types
 Standard Minute Time
 Requirements
Directing, controlling and corrective action:
For this following are to done –

 Selecting problem areas

 Examine to find the reason
 Record keeping
 Defining Problem to the responsible person
 Installing the right procedure
 Maintaining the procedures

3.10 Finishing Section

Finishing department usually carried out different functions as daily operations and
routine job. The finale shipment of the products are vastly depends on the finishing
department. The desired quality standard of the products are also depends on this
department. So the smoother and efficient operation of the finishing department is very
important.

Process flow chart of Finishing Department

Garments received from washing

Initial Measurement Check

Button attached

Thread trimming

Ironing/pressing (inside)

Quality inspection (inside) process wise

Ironing/pressing (outside)

Quality inspection (outside) process wise

Re-pressing

Inspections overall (outlook)

 Accessories attached

Folding

Shade sorting

Poly packing

Quality Audit

Prepare a packing list

Assorting

Carton pack

Final inspection

Record the documents

Different operations of the Finishing Department are enlisted below:

 Receiving of complete garments from production.

 Measurement checking.
 Sucker.
 Pressing & hangering
 Quality checking.
 Pasting back pocket sticker.
 Price tags labeling.
 Packing and Poly sticker pasting.
 Storing.
 Inspection by the buyer representative.
 Packing.
 Final shipment.

Receiving of garments:
Garments are received from production lines, washing plant and then other processes are
followed as mentioned above. The garments are received along with a bundle card where
the details about the garment are written, like style, size, quantity etc. If the garments are
needs to be washed garments they are send to the Washing Plant along with the bundle
card. The finishing department usually received two types of garments as such:

 Wash
 Unwashed.
Washed garments are received from the washing plant after wash and followed by the
other processes in the finishing department.

Non-wash garments are directly comes from the production line to the finishing and other
processes are followed.All the garments i.e. wash, non-wash are received along with
bundle card and recorded in the register.

Measurement checking:

The measurements of all received garments are checked here. This measurement is taken
comparing the original as mentioned in the label.

Sucker:

All the received garments are sends to this section and the garments are passed through
the sucker machine. The main purpose is to take out any cut thread and any other
unnecessary dust particles.

Pressing and hangering:

In this process garments are pressed first and then put in the hangers. There are different
pressing machines available for this purpose. These machines are

 Trouser topper: There are eight (12) trouser topper machines. These are usually used
for wash garments.
 Laggard: Total 3 laggard machines are there. These machines are used for the non-
wash garments.
 Topper: 3 topper machines. These machines are also used for non-wash garments.
 Iron table: There are total 32 iron tables in the finishing department. 12 tables are
using for non-wash garments and remaining 20 tables are using for wash garment.

Quality checking:

All garments have to be passed by the quality checking before pasting any sticker. The
following steps are involved in this process.

 Measurement checking.
 Shade checking
 Checks for any defects and spots uneven.
After checking all above-mentioned areas the garments are passed for labeling sticker.

Back pocket sticker and price tags labeling:

Here first the back pocket sticker is pasted and then price tags are labeled. The back
pocket sticker tells about the garment. The contents of the price tag are price, size, style,
color etc.

Packing and polyester pasting:

In this step all the garments are packed in a poly bag. Two denim trousers are packed in
one poly bag. Than the poly stickers are pasted on the bag.

Storing:

The packed garments are then sends to the finishing store for the finale shipment. All the
garments have to be passed through METAL DETECTOR before storing for the finale
shipment. Especially all children wears must be passed through the metal detector. This is
because of safety and our company is practicing totally metal free environment in the
factory.

Inspection by buyer representative:

The inspection is done in two steps.

 Style wise: From every new style 32 samples are taken at a time and checks. This is
conducted at the starting of a new style. The resultant report is given to the production
 and quality manager. As per the reports they take the corrective action if necessary.
 Daily basis: daily 80 pieces garments are picked randomly per style and inspects.
Than reports to the production and quality manager.
During these inspections the buyer representative follows two indexes.

Index 1: Following specific areas are checked here:

 Waist
 Hip
 Inside leg

Index 2:

A.Q.L. - Acceptable Quality Level. In this the different criteria is given for the quality
check and they follows that strictly. The format of this is attached here.

Packaging:

Packaging is done following the Order Sheet and the finale shipment schedule. Packaging
is also depends on the instructions given by the Merchandising Department. Same style,
same sizes and same color are packed in the same Cartoon. In a cartoon 28 pieces Denim
garments can be placed.

Marking on the Cartoon:

The following markings are mentioned on a cartoon.

 Cartoon number
 Style
 Size
 Color
 Quantity
 Net weight
 Gross weight
 Measurement
Final shipment:

Finale shipment is depends on the buyer’s requirements. It can be of two types-

 Hanging in the container

 Cartoon wise in the container.
 Chapter Four: Focusing Department

(Activities of Sampling & Washing department)

Sampling:
It means making a sample of the garment /fabric which requires to be sold. Sampling is
one of the main process in Garment Industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers.
Because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of
the samples.

Activities of Sample Room:

There are some important activities of every sample section in the garment manufacturing
industries which is pointed out in the below:
 To make the proper sample by following buyer’s instruction.
 To understand the requirements of buyer.
 To fulfill the requirements of buyer.
 To inform the accuracy or confirmation to the buyer that the bulk production is going to be
right.
 To confirm the measurement and fabric requirements.
 To make the perfection in the pattern and marker.
 To make perfection in the fabric consumption.
 To make perfection in the garment costing.
 To utilizes the skill operation with skilled operator during garment sewing.
 To get understanding completely to the operators and management as well about the
upcoming garment production of that order.
 To combine the overall performance of a garment export order.
Washing :
Garment washing is a significant part of garment industries and it is mainly applied on
denim garments and any other casual garments. In the primary stage garment does not
inherit customer's desired properties but after washing it become most widely used due to
its new appearance, softness, comfort, strength and low cost, which create customer's
absolute satisfaction. Garment washing process is provided with a lucrative and glassy
outlook by chemical or wet washing process and mechanical or dry washing process. The
most widely used dry washing processes for garment are scraping, spraying, whiskering,
damages, spots, rubbing and tacking contrariwise wet washing processes for garment to
develop new a look and effect are normal wash or rinse wash, pigment wash, caustic
wash, silicon wash, enzyme wash, stone wash, stone enzyme wash, bleach wash and acid
wash. This study gives an indication different types washing process and the change of
physical and chemical properties due to application of wet and dry washing processes as
an imparting desired effect on garments.
Development 1

Patteren

Before Wash
 After Wash
Figure 14: Development 1

Process Details for this development:

Fabric Name: (Caynee Selvedge)

Fabric Construction : 99% Cotton, 1% Elastane

Dry Process: Whisker, Scrapping, Tagging, Grinding, Heavy blasting, PP Spray

(All-over).

Wet Process: Rinse Wash, Heavy bleach wash,Acid Stone Wash.

Development 2

Figure 15: Development 2

Front Part Back Part

Process Details for this development:

Fabric Name: Denim (ADM1200)

Fabric Construction : 100% Cotton

Dry Process: PP Spray.

Wet Process: Rinse Wash, Stone Wash, Tie Wash

3 Training Program
I performed in the sampling & Washing department. There are many work assigned to
me, like, sample follow up, washing sample analysis etc. Given below the description of
sampling & washing department where I try to focused.

Sample Section

Garment sample section is very important department in apparel manufacturing process.

Garment samples are inevitably important and are developed tested before starting the
bulk production, because the buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied
with the quality of the samples. The samples decide the ability of an exporter. If the
samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced
to place the order.

Figure 16: Process flowchart of sample making

Brief Description of the Sampling Processes

Tech Pack Receiving: This is the first stage of the sampling processes. In
this stage Tech Pack or the Technical pack or design pack is received
from the buyer, via merchandiser. Tech pack contains all the
specifications to produce a garment from fabric details to trims and
 accessories details. Garments measurement, block, stitch all the detailing
are mentioned in a tech pack.

Pattern Make: CAD & Pattern Making: In this stage pattern is made through CAD.
Sometimes pattern is made manually, but CAD is more popular and easy, Computer-
aided design (CAD) is the use of computer Technology for the design of objects,
real or virtual. The design of geometric models for object shapes, in particular, is
often called computer-aided geometric design (CAGD).However CAD often
involves more than just shapes. As in the manual drafting of Technical and
engineering drawings, the output of CAD often must convey also symbolic
information such as materials, processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according to
application-specific conventions. CAD may be used to design curves and figures in
two-dimensional ("21") space; or curves, surfaces, or solids in three-dimensional
("3D") objects.

Sewing: After make pattern or manually cut fabrics for sample making, sample is make
according to buyer’s requirements.

Washing: After sewing the garment proceed for required washing according to buyer’s
tech pack or manual. This step is so much important. So, proper measure should be taken
to achieve the standard.
 Finishing: After getting the sample garment from washing it need to done all the
finishing. So the garment is again received by the sample room and they do the
finishing with button attaching, trimming, ironing etc.

Approval Gain: After making the sample it need to sends to buyer for approval, if not
gain approval, sample section has to re-make sample based on corrective comments.

Grading of Sample: After finalizing the sample. Grading is done. There may be
several grades of a single design. The grading is done to separate the samples
and patterns from each other’s.

Marker Making: After grading the samples. The design is inputted into
the marker software. This software specifies how to set the pattern in the
actual fabric. By using the marker software efficiently, fabric can be
saved. Viyellatex uses Gerber Garment Technology (GGT) for marker
making.

Figure 17: Marker Making

Types of Sample for Different buyer:
There are mainly eight types of sample needed for completing a garment order. Those
are-
Proto sample,
Fit sample,
Size set sample,
Counter sample,
Salesman sample (SMS),
Pre-production sample (PPS),
Top over production sample (TOP),
Shipment sample.
All the above garments samples are discussed in the below:

Proto sample:
It is the very first sample given to the buyer. It is prepared according to the buyer’s
specification. It is a trial sample prepared on product development department. Buyer
wants to see here that how its look likes after applying new design on it. Any types of
fabric and color can be used here. For this types of sample 2-3pcs garments should be
made where 1pc for manufacturer and rest of those are sent to the buyer for
correction.
Fit sample:
After approving proto sample, fit sample should be made by following buyer provided
measurement sheet. It can be made by using similar fabric. In Fit sample, stitching
and measurement must be 100% accurate. Here fabrication and color can be changed
but no compromise on stitching and measurement. 2-3 garments are used in fit sample
where 1pc kept by the manufacturer and rest of those are sent to the buyer.

Size set sample:

After approving fit sample, based on the patterns of approved sample, all the other
sizes samples should be graded here and make pattern for different sizes. After that,
make 2-3pcs sample for each size of that order. Manufacturer keep 1pc sample for
himself and send 1pc or 2pc samples to the buyer for cutting approval. Here, it should
be noted that, without the size set sample approval, cutting should not be started.
Counter sample:
This type of sample is based on the comments received from the buyer. For this
sample, 2-3pcs garments are required.
Salesman sample (SMS):
Salesman sample is used by sales team of buyer to enhance the sales of any garment.
Buyer sends the sample by salesman in the market to receive market feedback from
the customers. It is done approximately 200-500pcs depending on the customers and
season. The main objects of SMS sample are to check market, feedback, Buyer’s
design etc.
Pre-production sample (PPS):
P.P sample should be made in actual production line by maintaining all actual of an
order specification. It is the main stage of a garments order where any sample may be
approved or rejected. If the sample will approve then can go for the rest of the process
of that order. But if rejected then there will be the revision of previous processes. PPC
(Planning production and control) department is also involved in this stage. Ones PPC
department is involved then there’s no way for accepting of any style change. It is the
very critical stage than other’s stage. Extra care must be needed here to confirm an
order correctly.
Top of production sample (TOP):
During running an order in production line, a few samples sent to the buyer or buyers
Q, C as TOP sample. TOP sample has a great importance in achieving certification of
whole order. If TOP sample failed to approve its required quality then whole order
will be resumed. It is also called green seal sample.
Shipment sample:
Shipment sample is needed after completing final inspection, when goods are ready
for the shipment. It is a sample that reflects what buyers will receive down to Q.C,
folding, tagging, bagging, labeling and final packaging included.
Machine Used in Sample Section:

The lists of mostly used machines in sample room are given below with their uses.
Serial Types of Machines Uses
no

1. Plain machine/ single needle lock For making pocket

stitch. Stitch class: 300 sub class: and coin pocket,
301 Joining Back and
Front part.
2. Feed of the Arm machine. Stitch
class: 400 sub class: 401 For In Seam joining
3. 4 Thread over lock machine. Stitch For edge finishing.
class:500 sub class: 514 Especially for
Busted seam.
4. Flat Lock machine. Stitch Class: For joining the
400 sub class: 406 pocketing fabric
with the shell fabric
or body part.

5. KANSAI machine For joining

Stitch class:400 subclass: 401 waistband

6. Button Hole & eyehole machine For making straight

Button Hole and
making eyehole

7 Button & Rivets attaching machine For attaching button

& rivet

Table 4: Machine Used in Sample Section

Washing:

Fashion is today incomplete without denim. Denim comes in all forms, looks and washes
to match with every dress. It would be difficult to believe that the same denim was
originally employed in clothing for the pants and overalls worn by miners on the west
coast (US). A number of technological factors have contributed to making denim the
fashion icon that it is today including vast improvements in spinning, weaving, finishing
etc. One of the most important part of creation of the beautiful denim jeans is the
washing. Washing plays such an important part in the denim chain because of the
umpteen effects that the consumers are looking for on their jeans.

Types of Washing

In garments industry, there are mainly two types of washing process for garments
products. Those processes are wet washing process and dry washing process. Here also
wet washing process is divided by eight ways and the dry washing process is divided by
five ways, according to the fabric quality and buyer requirements. But most common and
applied wash in garment is normal wash, which is also known as detergent wash. In the
wet washing process enzyme wash, stone wash and bleach wash is most popular to the
buyer and the manufacturer. On the other hand, Potassium per magnet spray and hand
scraping is common for dry washing process in the garments industry.

There are mainly two types of wash. They are:-

1. Dry washing process
2. Wet washing process

Dry Process:
1. Whiskering
2. Scrapping
3. Tagging
4. PP spray
5. PP sponging
6. Grinding
7. Blasting etc.
Wet Process:

1. Rinse Wash
2. Garments Wash
3. Enzyme Wash
4. Heavy Enzyme Stone Wash
5. Enzyme Bleaching Wash
6. Acid Wash
7. Tie wash
8. Rubber Ball Wash
9. Towel Bleach Wash
10. Pigment Wash
11. Resin Wash

Objects of Garments Wash:

1. To remove dirt, dust and waste materials from garments.

2. To remove size materials from garments.
3. For garments wash shrinkage occurs, so accurate measurement can be found by
customers.
4. Fading effect is varied here by variation of an amount of detergent used,
processing time and processing temperature.
5. To increase the brightness of garments.
6. To increase the smoothness of garments.
7. To change the appearance of garments.
8. To make directly wearable after purchase.
9. To make garments become soft and handy.
10. To remove harmful materials from garments.
Description of Dry Process

Whiskering:
Whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look garment. The idea of
whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural
wearing on hips and front thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding
consequential to fabric, body shape of user or sitting posture. It is also known as Cat's
Whisker

Types of Whiskering:

There are mainly two types of whiskering. They are:

1. Machine whiskering
2. Pattern whiskering.

Figure 18: Machine Whiskering

Figure 19: Pattern Whiskering

Scrapping:

Hand scrapping is step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get distress
look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or it can be overall / global application as
per Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement &
design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and
above, higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In
garment industry from 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.

Figure 20: Hand Scrapping

Tagging:

Tacking or more commonly tag pinning is a very in fashion style in denim garment in
these days. In this process the effect is created by swift tag machines with the help of
plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get contrast. Usually tag pin
machines are used to attach tag pins to garment. The procedure is very simple and
proceeds as; garment is folded on required area and tacked through folds. Number of
folds can be two to four or five in regular in tacking.

Figure 21:Tagging
PP spray:
Potassium permanganate is sprayed in specific parts of the garment to fade color and
bring a bright effect on the hand scraped area. It is often done on Denim, Twill, poplin,
corduroy fabrics. It is done after the first wash. Liquid potassium permanganate color is
pink but after applied to garment turns to muddy brown or grey on drying. Sometimes
acetic acid or phosphoric acid is mixed to increase its intensity. It is always followed by
the neutralization by Na-meta bysulphate or other neutralizing agents. The concentration
of potassium permanganate will control the extent of brightness or effect.

Figure 22: PP spray

How To Make PP Spray & PP Sponging stock solution:
Potassium permanganate (KMno4 + H3Po4 + H2O) solution applied or stray on the
garments so oxidizes the cellulose & color is partially removed according to the intensity
& solution.
Solution.
Process is PP Spray:
1. Garments are taken to P.P.Cabin and mounted on Air dummy filled with
compressed air so the garment is full fit to be exposed.
2. Different size dummy is used for different garment sizes and styles like men’s
trouser and shirts
3. The cabin booths are fitted with proper air exhaust system.
4. The treatment room where the spray is done , the chemical mixed air is passed
through water shower
5. Water dissolves the p. p. and clean air is blown out to open.
6. The p. p. is sprayed on the garments.
PP Sponging:

In KMnO4 Paint, solution of  potassium permanganate is applied to garment with

spong, paint brush rather to spray with gun. The effect is quite different to spray and is
done in addition whereas the potassium permanganate paint is itself a process to give its
own effect. The solution of potassium permanganate ranging from 0.10 gm per liter to
5.00 gm per liter is used in normal productions. It is done with regular towels, sponges,
straw bunches what it is seen, is that most merging and beautiful effects are created with
towel.

Figure: PP Spong

Figure 23: PP Sponging

Grinding:

Grinding is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against
abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. Many different make of machines &
pen grinding tools are available in the market which runs with pneumatic system.

Figure 24: Denim Grinding

Blasting:

It is one of the simplest process of denim. The main objective to this work is to destroy
the warp yarn of the denim and to make the weft yarn visible. This process is only done
when the buyer require it on garments. There is one demerits that, when blasting is done
on the denim, it reduce the strength of denim on that position.

Figure 25: Denim Blasting

Description of Wet Wash Process:

Rinse Wash
Rinse wash is done only by water and slight detergent and backstainer. This shade is dark
and not so much different from its raw denim. This process has some problems like color
fastness to dry rubbing, wet rubbing and washing fail.
 Figure 26: Rinse Washed

Garments Wash
Garments wash is a combination of rinse wash and softener wash. At first rinse wash is
done and then softener wash is completed. In this wash color will not reduce. Generally
the garments remain almost tonally unchanged. Garments wash also has some problems
like color fastness to dry rubbing, wet rubbing and washing fail.

Figure 27: Garments Wash

Enzyme Wash

This wash is so called because enzyme is used in this wash. Normally washing means
enzyme wash. After this washing the garments become nice to look at. According to the
requirement of shade the enzyme may be neutral or acidic. It is one kind of laundering
process that uses enzymes to clean or finish the garments or textiles. This wash is
especially done for jeans. Enzyme wash also carry economic and environmental

89
benefits. On an industrial scale, it has replaced laborious laundering techniques such as
stone washing.

Enzyme Washed

Heavy Enzyme Stone Wash

In this type of wash enzyme and stone are used together. If we want to avoid the damages
we have to follow some precautions. In this type of wash heavy abrasion occurs. This
wash is especially done for denim. As a result of this wash medium level of shade comes.
If we use bleaching light shade will come.

Figure 27: Heavy Enzyme Stone Wash

Enzyme Bleaching Wash

In this type of wash at first we use enzyme and then we use bleaching process. As a result
of this wash light shade comes out. Chlorine and non-chlorine bleach can be used for this
wash. To reduce indigo color or other colors bleaching is used.

90
Acid Wash
Acid wash is done by using Potash and Stone. At first we have to dip the stone in potash
solution and then slight dry the stone and wash in a washing machine. As a result of acid
wash we will get uneven look on garments.

Figure 28: Acid Wash

Tie wash
By tie washing we will get uneven crease on garments. Tie wash is done by tiding the
garments and then washing it. We tie the garments according to standard. Basically for
this wash we have to do enzyme or bleach wash. As a result of tiding the garments the
sharp edges come in contact to the machine and the effects come out.
 Figure 29: Tie wash

Rubber Ball Wash

Rubber ball wash is a garments and softener wash. In this process garments will be softer
and at the same time seam abrasion will come. We use this wash to get more hand feel of
garments. Rubber balls are added in the same bath of softener or in the dryer with the
garments.

Figure 30: Rubber Ball Wash

Towel Bleach Wash:

This wash is like acid wash. It is one kind of uneven wash. We get uneven shade from
this wash. At first we cut the towel into small pieces and dip in the bleaching solution.
After that we take these out from the solution and slightly dry. Then the garments and
towels are tumbled in another machine for a certain period of time. After tumbling we
have to neutral the garments properly. Now we will see that some places of garments are
discolor or changed in color where the towel pieces touched the garments.
Pigment Wash:
The wash which we do for pigment color is called pigment wash. This wash is done to
make the garments fashionable. The garments surface becomes more uneven. In this wash
color stays on the garments surface.

Figure 33: Pigment wash

Resin Wash:
In this wash we directly use resin that’s why it is called resin wash. Resin is used at a
specific percentage. Generally we use this wash when we need less hand feel and more
shine look. Resin also fixes the color with the fabric.

Resin Washed
In Silken Sewing, there mostly used normal wash and enzyme stone wash. Enzyme stone
gives “Used Look” on garments and a huge number of indigo are washed by this washing
process. Now I am going to describe the Normal wash and Enzyme stone wash.

Normal wash:

 This is a simplest type of industrial garments wash

  The main aim is to remove starch dust and dirt from the garments.
 Sometimes softening and bringing a used look is also a reason of normal wash.
 For color garments removal of unfixed dyes can also be achieved to improve color
fastness.
 In special cases intentional shrinkage in garments can be achieved.
 Precautions are required to be taken for unwanted shrinkage issue and back
staining.

Sample recipe for normal wash:

If lot size 100 kg cotton shirt

M:L =1:5

Water = 500 liter

Detergent = 1 % (basis on the weight of the garments).

Temp = 40-60 degree Celsius

Time = 15- 30 minutes.

Back staining chemical is used if required.

It is usually called rinse wash and a small amount of chemical is used for this wash.

Enzyme Stone Wash:

Enzymes are bio chemical substances that behave as catalysts toward specific reactions.
What makes very interesting the enzymes under a chemical point of view is their high
specificity or in other words, their ability to attack selectively a given substrate.
The action of enzyme during enzyme wash, it hydrolysis the cellulose, at first it attacks
the having projecting fiber and hydrolyzed them. Them it attacks the yarn portion inside
fabric and partly hydrolyzed the yarn portion and faded affect is produced.
Type of Enzyme Stone:

• Acid Enzyme Stone

• Neutral Enzyme Stone

• SL Enzyme Stone Objects of Enzyme Stone Wash:

• To remove the size materials from the garments.

• To remove the starch presents on the garments fabrics.

• To achieve the high low abrasion (stone affect) on garment and seam abrasion in
sewing area.

• Enzyme attack as chemically not mechanically for this reason low damage/wastage
then stone wash.

• For soft feeling to wear the garment.

• To achieve the buyer reference sample.

• To increase the color fastness & rubbing fastness.

• Especially develop the "Bio-Polishing" effect of cotton/denim.

• Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.

• Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface.

Enzyme Washing Process:

First Step :Desizing

1. Lot weight (80 pes) ............60 kg denim long pant.

2. Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 Liter
3. Machine Running.
4. Temperature.......................... 60°c.
5. Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / liter ............ 324 gm.
6. Add Detergent @ 0.8 gm / litter.................... 432 gm.
7. Time............................... 10--20 mts.
8. Drop the liquor.
9. Wash 1 time by cold water.

Second Step:Enzyme

1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 8 .............. 450 Litre

2. Temperature.......................... 45°c.
3. Pumic Stone (60*3)…… 180 kg for 60 kg denim.
 4. Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ................... 270 gm.
5. Add Anti back staining @ 0.6 gm / litre........ 270 gm.
6. Add Acid Enzyme @ 2.00 gm / litre ................ 900 gm.
7. Time.............. (Depend upon the shade)... 40--60 mts.
8. Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme killing).
9. Drain the bath.
10. Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

Third Step: Softening

1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 8 ..................... 450 Litre.

2. Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / liter ............ 270 gm.
3. Cationic Softener @ 1 gm / liter.............. 450 gm.

Temperature................................... Cold.

4. Time ................................................ 15 to 20 mts.

5. Drain the bath.
6. Then unload the garments on trolley.

Fourth Step: Hydro extractor Machine

After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent to hydro extractor
machine to remove excess water from the washed garments. Fifth Step: Drying Machine

1. Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.

2. Temperature set -75°c to 85°c.
3. Run about 40 mts.
4. After then run 10 mts in cold dryer.
Pumice Stone:
The pumice stones having oval and round shape with a rough surface, which is worked as
an abradant in washing cycle. Pumic stone is a natural volcanic stone which is used for
stone wash of garments. It is crystallized with substantive pores. During washing, these stones
scrap off dye particles from the surface of the yarn of the fabric which shows a faded,
worn out and brilliance effect on the garments. Pumice stones are mostly used for stone
wash due to its chemical treatment, strength and light weight.

Selection of Pumice Stone:

Some points should be followed during selecting pumice stones for stone wash, those are-

1. Pumice stone should be selected according to the end product and required
amount of effect needed on the garments.
2. Large and hard stones are suitable for heavy weight garments.
3. Smaller and soft stones are suitable for light weight garments.
4. Ratio of stone weight and garments weight is – [{(0.5 to 3)/1} kg].
5. Moisture content of pumice stone should be less than 5%.
6. Surface properties of pumice stone should be less than 5%.
7. Abrasion loss of pumice stones should be 35%.
8. Apparent density of pumice stone should be 0.5-0.75gm/cm3.

Advantages of Pumice Stone:

There are some advantages of pumice stones, those are mentioned in the below:
1. Desired vintage effect on garments can be easily achieved by using pumice stones.
2. Washed garments can achieve more soft effect by using pumice stones.

Disadvantages of Pumice Stone:

Pumice stone has some disadvantages on garments, those are-

1. Can be damaged washing machine due to stone and machine abrasion.
2. Garments can be damaged due to stone and machine abrasion.
Chapter Five: - Critical Analysis
There are something different between what we have read and what we have seen. Given
below the differences as per my own opinion.

Theoretical
1.Buyer send the Tech. Pack and
merchandiser received it for development
purpose with this process we make a
good relation with Buyer I read it
theoretically.
Practical
1. Practically, we had seen buyer start the
relation with the merchandiser by sending
Style sheet. This is depend on as per
company & buyer.

2. We didn’t know about the 2. Here we known about MCD. Where

MCD(Material control department) material (fabric, accessories) comes from
the supplier which is ordered by
merchandiser.
3. In sewing lab there are less modern 3. In the factory, we had seen several new
sewing machine machines .
4. We read a standard sequence of sample. 4. But in the factory sampling procedure
vary from buyer to buyer .
5. We learn theoretically but had less 5. Here we saw all in practically, like:
opportunity to do practical. printing, washing etc.
Chapter Six: - SWOT Analysis
SWOT Analysis

SWOT Analysis means analysis of Strength, Weakness, Opportunities, and Threats of a

particular company. Strength is the advantages coming from the internal business
environment. Weaknesses are the internal bottlenecks. Opportunities indicate privileges
that come from the external business environment where threats make the external
environmental disadvantages.

6.1 SWOT on Washing

Through my internship program in the Silken Sewing Ltd., I’m able to find out some of
the
SWOT. The results of the SWOT analysis of washing department are described in below:

Strength

 Production capacity is very high.

 It has large washing plant.

 Well experienced wash technician.

 Started sustainable wash from last few years.

 Modern technology based automatic washing machine.

 Eco friendly washing technique.

Weakness

 Sometimes they can’t deliver wash sample due to shortage of experienced

worker.
 Inadequate washing plant space.

Opportunities

 By developing various types of washing effects Silken Sewing may attract

foreign buyers.
 They have large and modern production unit.

Threats

 Global Competition is increasing day by day.

6.2 SWOT on Sampling

Strength:

 Silken Sewinghave good images to their buyer due to maintain loyalty.

 100% quality full garments they submitted to the buyer.

 Production capacity is very high.

 They have a strong and well educated employee team.

 The workers of the sample department are technically expert to fulfill the
buyer’s requirement.
 Latest machines are available in sample section.
Weakness:

 Not enough space in the sample room.

 The distance between Sample department & Merchandising Department is too

much.

Opportunity:

 Updated machineries will be introduced in the sampling section very soon.

Threats

 There is no any specific tracking system to follow up a sample. So it is easy to

lose the sample at any time.
Chapter Seven: -Recommendations
 Recommendations
Based on my understanding the recommendations are as follows:

Problem Recommendation
Sometimes they can’t deliver Need more experienced worker.
Washing wash sample due to shortage
Department of experienced worker. .

Inadequate space in the Need Adequate space in the washing

washing plant plant.

The distance between Sample The sample department should be nearer

department & Merchandising to merchandising department.
Sample Department is far away.

Department
There is no any tracking Strong tracking system should
system to follow up a implement.
sample.
 Conclusion

Today RMG sector becomes very challenging & competitive .Buyer Always wants to
100% quality product. For this reason it is very important to know about the latest
technologies in textile sector. To produce a quality product, as a textile engineer I must
have a vast knowledge about the production parameters & how to produce a high quality
product. To accommodate the theoretical study with technical and practical things
industrial training (Internee) is very important. In my training period I have observed that
Silken Sewing Ltd.. produces high quality garments and fulfills the special requirements
from the different types of buyers by following different internationally recommended
standard method. In this training period I have learned how the desired product is made
ready for shipment from the starting to the end i.e. from merchandising to the packaging.
In this training period I have got an idea about the responsibility of different departments
of the factory. So I think this industrial training will help me in future.
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