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You are here: Home / MANAGE YOUR PROJECT / PLANS & SPECS / RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION
SPECIFICATIONS

RESIDENTIAL CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATIONS

In This Article
How Much to Specify
Types of Specifications
Good and Bad Examples
Where to Get Specs               View all PLANS & SPECS articles
Construction drawings focus on a building’s shape, appearance, and dimensions, while the written
construction specifications, or specs, focus on what materials will be used and how they should be
installed. In general, the more detail in the written specifications, the better. Without detailed specs, you
don’t really know what to expect in the finished project.

What information goes in written notes on the drawings, and what goes in the specifications is up to the
designer, but a good set of detailed specs goes far beyond what could possibly be put into a drawing. It’s
OK if the same information appears in both places, but if there is a contradiction, the specifications
generally take priority, at least legally.

At a minimum, building specifications list what materials to use,  and call out any special installation
requirements. Specs are much more valuable if they go further and provide detailed installation
requirements and establish quality standards for the materials and the workmanship. Equally important
is providing a measurable way to determine whether the work has met the standard. This will prove
valuable if there are any disagreements over the quality of the work.

On a large job, the specs will be broken down by trades, so there will be specs for the painting, roofing,
concrete work, flooring, and so on.

On a small remodeling job, the roofing specs might be as simple as:

Existing asphalt roof shingles shall be removed and disposed of by contractor. New shingles shall be 30-
year architectural shingles with 36-inch-wide Grace Ice-and-Water Shield, or approved equal, at eaves.
Underlayment shall be 15-pound asphalt felt paper. Premium F-8 aluminum drip edge to be installed at
eaves and along gable ends, with Air Vent Shingle Vent at ridge.

On a high-end new home designed by an architect, the roofing specs might go a lot farther – stating  that
the roof shingles must meet specific standards (UL) for fire resistance and (ASTM) for wind resistance,
that the  “tar paper” underlayment meet a specific ASTM standard, and that the drip edge must be of a
certain minimum thickness of aluminum. It may go further to state that the shingles must be installed
within a certain temperature range, which may be more restrictive than the manufacturer’s
requirements. For example:

Existing asphalt roof shingles shall be removed and disposed of by contractor. Site shall be left free of
nails and other debris. New shingles shall be GAF Timberline Series 30 year architectural shingle, or
equal acceptable to owner, installed as per the written manufacturer’s instructions, and within the
temperature range recommended by manufacturer. All eaves shall be lined with 36 in. Grace Ice and
Water Shield. Grace Ice and Water Shield shall also line all valleys and any roof areas with a slope of 3:12
or less.

Underlayment shall be  ASTMD226 TypeI or II asphalt-impregnated underlayment or an approved

synthetic underlayment, lapped min. 6 in. at horizontal seams and min. 4 in. at vertical seams. Nails shall
be double hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails of sufficient length to fully penetrate roof sheathing. Use
step flashing at all roof penetrations; Flashing shall be .032 in. aluminum or 16 oz. copper or lead-coated
copper. Use .032 in. aluminum drip edge at all eaves and gable ends. Install Air Vent Shingle Vent II at
ridge, as per manufacturer’s written instructions.
HOW MUCH TO SPECIFY

Many construction jobs are done with no or minimal written specifications. The customer doesn’t really
know what he or she is getting, and often is often disappointed with the results. In the absence of a
written spec, you will often get so-called “builder’s grade” products, a euphemism for cheap and basic.
Builder’s-grade windows are typically solid vinyl with very cheap screens that are difficult or impossible
to remove without breaking them – I know, as I have some in my current home and previous home.
Builder’s-grade doors, floor coverings, tubs, showers, bathroom fixtures, and cabinets share the same
minimal price and quality.

If you want better, and if you want to know ahead of time what you are getting from a contractor, you
need at least  basic written specifications, identifying the products that will be used, how many coats of
paint or floor finish you are getting, and so on. Otherwise, it’s a complete crap shoot. If you are working
with a quality-minded, conscientious contractor, you may get an excellent job, but why leave it up to
chance?

You can’t and don’t want to spec every nail. But reasonably detailed specs will reduce your risk of getting
substandard materials or workmanship, and it will reduce the risks of disputes over the completed work
quality since the standards for material type, quality, and workmanship are spelled out in black and
white.

How detailed a spec should be depends on the complexity and requirements of the job. I’d recommend
basic specs, such as listing the products to be used by brand and model for just about every product and
material to be used on the job. For paints and coatings, you will want to know what prep work will be
done and how many coats applied.

Beyond that, you’ll want detailed specs for portions of the job that are very costly (or costly to fix, such
as the foundation), critical to the success of the project,  prone to problems (like radiant floors), or
require specialized products or workmanship that may be unfamiliar to the tradespeople doing the job. If
problems show up after the work is done, you will be in a much stronger position to get the work
repaired if you have a written spec to fall back on. Examples of products or systems that should have
detailed installation specs, and issues to cover in the specs, include:

Foundations – Concrete mix, strength, reinforcing

Concrete slabs – Concrete mix, strength, reinforcement, flatness, finish, expansion/movement joints,
allowable cracks

Roofing – Type, weight/thickness/warranty period of roofing; type of underlayment, flashing, and

fasters. Carefully spec details for low-slope roofs, and for complex roofs with hips and valleys, detailing
how valleys will be waterproofed. Get detailed material and installation specs for roofing materials such
as wood, metal, tile, slate, and composite materials.

Windows and doors – Specify type, model, and energy efficiency. Also provide flashing details around
doors and windows to prevent leaks, which are common here.

Skylights – Prone to leaking. Make sure installation follows manufacturer’s specs. Extra membrane
flashing around skylights recommended in freezing climates.

Insulation and air sealing – If you care about energy performance, you’ll need to spec this carefully.
HVAC systems – A lot can go wrong here. System can be oversized, undersized, uneven, noisy, leaky
(ductwork), and inefficient due to installation errors.

Radiant heating – Needs careful specifications by an experienced designer or installer.

Wood flooring – Moisture content, substrate, fasteners, vapor barriers (over slab), finishes. Follow the
recommendations of the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA).

Ceramic tile – Follow the methods and standards in the TCNA Handbook if you want trouble-free
installations. Floor must be stiff enough. Also pay attention to substrates, adhesives, and movement
joints.

Special construction for wind or seismic loads: This includes wind-resistant roofing, impact-resistant
windows, engineered framing fasteners, and shear wall requirements.

Metal components in coastal areas: Make sure that any exposed metal flashing, fasteners, or hardware is
stainless steel, copper, brass, lead, or double hot-dipped galvanized. Other metals and finishes will not
last long due to the corrosive power of salt spray.

Over the years, I’ve learned to assume nothing about a job where the scope of work is not in writing. If
the work description or construction drawing is not specific, you won’t really know what you’re getting
until the job is done. You may be happy with it – or not, but changing it mid-job or after completion is
always expensive and who will pay for the changes will always be contested.

If you know what you want, specify it. Do you want the nail holes filled with a color-matched putty on
your natural woodwork – if so, put it in the contract. Otherwise you might find yourself filling several
hundred holes by yourself after the job is “done.”

While you can’t spec every last nail, there are times when you have to spec things as small as nails. For
example, I once built a gambrel roof using site-built trusses fabricated with plywood gussets. The nails in
the gussets had to be a specific size, length, and number, and installed in a specific pattern for the
engineered design to work. Using the proper type and size of nails and fasteners is also critical in truss
hangers and other engineered framing connectors, as well as with tile backerboards, drywall (to prevent
nail pops), and many other building materials.  So, in many cases, it does make sense to specify the nails.

TYPES OF SPECIFICATIONS

Specifications may cover the properties and installation of products and materials, and systems. They are
either written as product specifications, installation specifications, or performance specifications.

Product specifications. These can name specify a specific brand-name product, such as: “Foundation
insulation shall be 2-inch tongue-and-groove Dow Styrofoam, or equivalent.” To give the contractor more
flexibility it may provide a technical spec, such as  “Rigid foam insulation to be 2-inch-thick extruded
polystyrene with tongue-and-groove edges, with a minimum compressive strength of 25 psi.”

The first type of spec, that names the product is certainly the simplest – no question about what is to be
used. Language such as “or equivalent” or “or similar” are OK as long as you state in your contract that
any such substitutions must be “approved by owner or owner’s representative.” In some cases, like with
extruded foam insulation above, all major brands are pretty much the same. With other types of
products, such as  paint, doors and windows, siding products, and composite wood products,
equivalency is harder to determine. You’re better off finding the product you like and speccing just that.

Highly technical specs are probably overkill for most residential products, except in high-end jobs, and in
instances where the design or code calls for specialty products. For example, if you are putting Styrofoam
insulation under a slab or foundation, you will need a higher compressive strength than what is typically
found in the lumberyard. If you are in an area where the code requires impact resistant windows, wind-
resistant roofing, or special structural connections to protect against earthquakes or high winds, then
technical specifications are essential.

Installation specifications. Most contractors and tradespersons have their own way of doing things. In
the building trades, you’ll often hear things like “This is how I’ve always done it” and “I’ve always done it
this way and haven’t had any problems.” That’s exactly what the contractor told me who installed a Velux
skylight in a shallow roof, violating the manufacturer’s specs, and guess what – it leaked until I removed
it and reinstalled it per the manufacturer’s instructions.

Unfortunately “the way we’ve always done it” may not work anymore due to changes in materials,
codes, energy standards, or other factors particular to your job. The goal of installation specs is to avoid
these kinds of problems. These describe, in detail, how a product is to be installed or applied. For
example,

Install 2-inch Styrofoam extruded polystyrene insulation over interior side of basement wall by attaching
wood furring strips vertically over the foam insulation at 16-in. or 24-in. on center. Fasten 1×2-in. or 2×4-
in. furring strips through the foam insulation and into basement wall using Tapcon or similar screws that
penetrate about 1-1/4″ into the concrete wall. Use 4 screws per 8 ft. furring strip.

Quality standards. Installation specs for visible finish work often contain quality standards as well (see
also Quality Standard contract language). Quality standards are only useful if they provide an objective,
measurable way to determine if the standard has been met. For example, a Level 4 drywall finish, from
US Gypsum, based on the standards of the Gypsum Association is as follows:

All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and shall be immediately
wiped with a joint knife or trowel, leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior
angles. In addition, two separate coats of joint compound shall be applied over all flat joints and one
separate coat of joint compound applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be
covered with three separate coats of joint compound. All joint compounds shall be smooth and free of
tool marks and ridges. The prepared surface shall be covered with a drywall primer like Sheetrock first
coat prior to the application of the final decoration.

While this goes into great detail about the installation, the only standard about the quality of the visible
finish is that the joint compound should be “smooth and free of tool marks and ridges.” How smooth and
free of tool marks is pretty vague.

A better quality standard is provided by the National Association of Homebuilders (NAHB) in their book
of Residential Construction Performance Guidelines. This provides both performance guidelines and
corrective actions. For drywall finish to meet their standard it must not have any of the following:
Any joints visible from a standing position, facing the surface at a distance of 6 feet under normal lighting
conditions

Any nail pop, blister, or other blemishes that are visible from a standing position facing the surface at a
distance of 6 feet under normal light conditions

Any drywall cracks greater than 1/16 inch in width

Any defects resulting in cracked corner bead, trowel marks, excess joint compound, or blisters in tape

This seems like a reasonable standard, although I’d apply the same standard to cracks as to other
defects: Any drywall crack visible from 6 feet under normal conditions should be fixed.

Performance specs. This type of spec describes the standards that must be met, rather than the specific
product of system to be used. The contractor will propose a product or system, which must then be
approved by the owner or owner’s representative, such as an architect or construction manager.

Performance specs are often used for heating, air conditioning, and other mechanical systems. They may
also be used for wells, septic systems, or other building components where the performance is more
important than the specific products and materials used. In general, this is a practical and economical
approach that puts the responsibility on the subcontractor or vendor to design the system. They have
the expertise to do this efficiently and are accustomed to putting out proposals. They may offer some
suggestions that differ from your specs, which are generally worth listening to.

A performance spec for an air-source heat pump might read:

Air-source heat pump shall cool all rooms in the house to 76°F degrees in cooling season with outdoor
temperatures of 93°F, and heat all rooms in winter to 70°F with outdoor temperature of 25°F. First and
second floor shall have separate heating and cooling zones. All ductwork to be galvanized sheet metal or
insulated duct board, fabricated, sized, and installed in accordance with applicable ASHRAE and SMACNA
standards. All ductwork joints shall be sealed with duct mastic (and fiberglass tape on ductboard). All
ductwork in unconditioned spaces shall be insulated.  Heat pump to be Energy Star certified.

Special conditions. This type of specification would cover an special measures required on the job due to
poor weather (too hot or too cold), difficult access, very steep or wet sites, environmental concerns, etc.

Special words and phrases. Certain phrases are commonly used in specs. Some are good, some not so
good. The main ones to watch for are:

Workmanlike manner. It never hurts to specify that work be done in a workmanlike manner, but the
definition is pretty fuzzy.

Manufacturer’s written instructions. Always include in your specs, where relevant, that all materials and
products will be installed in accordance with manufacturer’s written instructions. Most manufacturers
provide detailed installation instructions, which tend to be strict as they do not want to see product
failures. If your contractor does not follow these instructions, any product warranties may be voided.

Match existing. This is commonly used in remodeling work. It’s best to find the matching product before
you start. If your contract requires the contractor to “match existing,” make sure it contains a reasonable
way to determine if it meets the standard, preferably that the match must be “approved by owner or
owner’s representative.” (See also Match Existing contract clause.)

In accordance with all applicable codes. It doesn’t hurt to include this language and it might come in
handy. For example, if the building, plumbing, or electrical inspector rejects a portion of the work for
whatever reason, and the contractor claims that it will be an “extra” to bring the work up to code, you
will have a leg to stand on. Building inspectors have a fair amount of discretion in how they interpret the
code, so surprises like this do occur. But remember: The building code only sets minimum standards for
safety and structural integrity. Compliance with code is not the same as quality construction.

Or equivalent. Or phrases such as “or equal” or “or similar” often wind up in specs and can lead to many
problems if not accompanied by language stating that the substitution is “approved by owner or owner’s
representative.”  Once piece of drywall or fiberglass insulation may be as good as another, but the same
is not true for most building products. A shorthand way to write this type of spec is “or approved equal.”
Make it clear who has the authority to approve a substitution.

CONSTRUCTION SPECS: GOOD AND BAD EXAMPLES

Here are examples of good and poor specifications:

Poor: “Composite-type decking, Trex or equivalent, fastened with hidden fasteners.”

Good: “Decking to be 1-inch-thick Trex Transcend composite decking installed with the Trex Hideaway
Hidden Fastener System, in accordance with the manufacturer’s written instructions. Color to be
selected by owner.”

Poor: All exterior trim to be primed and painted with Benjamin Moore latex paint, or equivalent.

Good: Before painting, exterior trim to have exposed knots sealed with shellac or equivalent sealer.
Exposed corners to be lightly sanded. All trim shall be primed on all six sides with Benjamin Moore Latex
Primer 169, and receive two top coats of  Benjamin Moore Exterior Acrylic Latex Semi–Gloss K588.

Poor: Ceramic wall tile be installed over tile backerboard with thinset mortar. Grout shall be installed
with movement joints, as needed, and sealed upon completion

Good: Ceramic wall tile to be installed with latex-modified thinset mortar over 1/2-inch Hardibacker
fastened to wood framing with corrosion-resistant screws, in accordance with the backerboard
manufacturer’s written instructions. All Hardibacker edges to be backed by solid framing. Grout color to
be approved by owner. Grout shall be polymer-modified and sealed with Aqua Mix Sealer’s Choice Gold,
from Custom Building Products. At all corners, tub edges, and changes of material, tile joints shall be
grout-free and sealed with a resilient caulk to match the adjoining grout. All work shall be done in a
workmanlike manner.

WHERE TO GET CONSTRUCTION SPECS

From the architect. If you are working with an architect, he or she will provide specs as part of the design
process.  Most architects use a system called MasterSpec, a comprehensive specification system
following the CSI format. MasterSpec is  overkill for most residential jobs, even their Small Project Specs,
which is no longer available. If an architect does a lot of residential work, then they most likely have
developed a simplified residential spec based on Master Spec, manufacturer’s instructions, and industry
standards.

From the contractor. If the designer does not provide specs, they generally come from the contractor as
part of his proposal and may range from minimal to comprehensive. At the low end you might see
something like “Install architectural shingles over roofing felt as per plan.”  Over time, most professional
builders have assembled a pretty thorough “standard” spec that reflects their preferred materials,
techniques, and details, but is always open to revision if you want to do things differently.

Spec-writing software. Some architects and contractors use spec writing software based on the CSI
format. In addition to MasterSpec, software options include

UDA Residential Specifications. User-friendly and economical,  in MS Word. Follows CSI format, but easy
to pick and choose what you want to use.

SpecWriter by PowerTools Software. Works with Excel and is more builder-oriented, but needs updating.

eSpecs, by Interspec. This follows and integrates with MasterSpec  and is mainly used by architecture
firms. It’s now owned by the same company as MasterSpec.

Writing your own specs. If you are writing your own specs, you should start by identifying as many
products as you can by brand name and model. Perhaps you want Marvin Integrity double-glazed
windows with low-E glass, and Benjamin Moore Aura paint. For most products, you can specify that they
be installed “according the manufacturer’s printed instructions.”

It’s even better if you take a look at these instructions and include in the specs the details that are most
important to you. It’s a good way to communicate your desires and expectations to the contractor.

Most product manufacturers provide detailed instructions on the Internet. For generic products, such as
ceramic tile, you will find extensive product and installation specs published by trade associations for the
industry (see list of construction trade association).

Even if your contractor has his own standard specs, providing him with a written list of your product
choices and preferred installation details is a good place to start and can be incorporated into the final
spec. You may modify some of your ideas after discussing them with the contractor. Here is an example
of a real-life spec that I wrote recently for a residential remodel. With a few revisions, it was combined
with the contractor’s standard specs. Download Sample Remodeling Spec.

Construction industry standards.  Trade organizations publish extensive standards for installing plywood,
hardwood flooring, ceramic tile, wood shingles, and similar generic products that may not have
instructions from the individual manufacturer. A stronger approach than just referencing “industry
standards” is to cite a specific industry specification. For example: “Ceramic tile and backerboard to be
installed according to the 2010 TCA Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation. Even better is to specify a
specific standard such as “Install ceramic tile according to TCA Standard RH110-10: For Radiant Heat on
Concrete: Hydronic System.” These standards go into great detail about the preparation, materials, site
conditions, and installation techniques required for a professional job.

They may also cite specific quality levels. For example, the Gypsum Association (GA), in conjunction with
three other trade associations publishes detailed specs for installing gypsumboard. If you specify a Level
4 Gypsumboard finish, then “All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound
and two separate coats of joint compound applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint
compound applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three
separate coats of joint compound. All joint compound shall be smooth and free from tool marks and
ridges.”

Even if you have no idea what the standard states, if there are problems with the installation, you have a
solid, written standard to rely on to establish whether the product was installed correctly. See list of
trade associations that publish standards.

Other published standards.  Some contractors cite a specific minimum quality standard such as the
Residential Construction Performance Guidelines, published by the National Association of
Homebuilders (NAHB). These standards cover the entire building from foundation to roof, establishing
quality standards for everything from foundation cracks to painting quality. Each entry also includes
commentary and corrective actions. A couple of examples follow:

Concrete Slabs: Concrete floors in living areas will not have pits, depressions, or areas of unevenness
exceeding 3/8 inch in 32 inches. Corrective Measure: The contractor will correct or repair the floor to
meet the guideline.

Drywall: Any joints that are visible from a standing position of 6 feet under normal lighting conditions are
considered excessive.  Corrective Measure: One time only during the warranty period, the contractor will
repair affected areas.

The first standard for concrete slabs is pretty lax in my opinion. It falls well short of the TCNA Standards
for ceramic tile, which call for no more than ¼ in. variation in 10 ft., but may be suitable for some types
of floor coverings such as thick carpeting.

The second standard seems pretty reasonable to me. However, I would ask for a one-year warranty on
the repair in the event that the repair is inadequate, or that the building continues to move and settle
after one year – generally not a good sign.

Many of the standards, for example, allowing a ¼ inch gap allowed where cabinets fit to a wall, are pretty
lax and would not meet the standards of most custom builders. Although this book is a mixed bag, and
was written by a contractors’ organization  primarily to protect contractors from unreasonable claims, at
least it does the job of establishing objective measures of quality.

For a homeowner unfamiliar with the nitty-gritty details of construction, the book can provide a good
introduction to the many types of quality issues that come into play and can serve as a starting point for
establishing minimum quality standards acceptable to both parties. If a particular aspect of the job – for
example, the interior woodwork, is of particular importance to you, it may make sense to establish a
specific standard, borrowing from the style, if not the specific dimensions, of this book. The book allows
1/8-inch gaps in interior trim – if you are paying premium rates for custom trim, maybe a 1/16-inch gap
is more reasonable.

In most cases, the standards established by individual trade organizations for drywall, ceramic tile,
hardwood flooring, wood siding, etc.,  are more stringent than in the NAHB Guidelines, so referencing
the individual standards would be preferable. If you are using an architect, he is likely to reference
industry standards through the Master Spec or a similar spec writing system. Also most custom builders
would aim for higher standards in their work due to professional pride, and their desire to satisfy their
customers and get repeat work and referrals.  That’s the contractor you want to hire.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

Jack Bittner says

March 5, 2019 at 6:40 pm

Who Should Provide Specs for New Home?

How can I find a spec writer for construction of a private home? We have complete filed and County-
approved plans. The architect’s specs are scattered throughout the plans. We want an 8.5” x 11” packet
of pages that all can sign. Jack Bittner

Reply

buildingadvisor says

March 6, 2019 at 11:34 am

It is generally the architect’s job to provide written specifications that works in conjunction with the
drawings to specify exactly what is to be built — including the materials, building details, quality levels,
and techniques, where appropriate.

On commercial projects, this usually involves a detailed written spec using one of the major spec writing
systems such as MasterSpec or BSD SpecLink as well as a spec-writing specialist – either in-house or an
outside consultant. On residential projects, construction specs are more variable from one firm to
another. There are few spec writing systems focused on residential construction. The only one I know
that is currently available is the Residential Specifications from UDL Technologies.

Several residential spec companies have come and gone over the years. It seems like there is not enough
money in it to keep these products going. Spec writing is a dynamic process as building materials and
techniques are constantly evolving, so a good spec writing system must do the same.

Whatever system an architect uses, they must customize it a great deal for their company and the
specific project. Some companies fine it easier to start from scratch and write their own specs, which
they adapt and modify for different projects. The specs are a combination of industry standards,
manufacturer instructions, and personal preferences of the designer.

Getting a couple of pages of general specs and having the rest scattered throughout the plans in not
uncommon. This might be fine if you are working with a high-quality contractor who has worked a lot
with this architect and knows how they like things done. If you are putting the project out to competitive
bid, you will probably want a more detailed performance and product specification written as a separate
document appended to the plans. .

If you are hiring the architect for a full-service contract, it is clearly their job to specify the work, answer
detail questions from the contractor,  and inspect their work to make sure it is correct. Without a written
spec, it is hard to know exactly what work is expected. So it sounds like you may need to nudge the
architect to provide a more comprehensive written spec. If he architect is unable or unwilling to provide
this, you may wish to find a construction specifier or construction manager to prepare a written spec,
but  you will need to work this out with your architect.

If an architect is not involved in construction supervision on your project, then the contractor may
provide his own specification, but it may be very minimal and may not reflect your wishes or the
architects. So it would be best to get your architect to do his job and spec to job to a reasonable level of
detail.

Best of luck with your new home!

Reply

Jack Bittner says

March 4, 2019 at 11:38 am

Hi Steve. Thanks for your thorough answer. May I ask: in a fixed price home building contract are the
specs attached to the contract and executed by Owner and Contractor – so that even though price is
“fixed”, if work is done on the house which is not listed among the specs and shown attached to the
contract, Owner must pay so much extra for work done and not listed in the contract?

Reply

buildingadvisor says

March 6, 2019 at 1:41 pm

You have hit on what I think is the most problematic and contested issue in construction projects, large
and small: What exactly is included in the contract price and what is a legitimate “extra”? Contractors
and owners have wrestled over this forever.

Both the drawn plans and written specifications are part of the Scope of Work in a fixed-price contract.
Anything not included in the Scope of Work becomes an extra charge.

It is a timeworn strategy in public works and commercial projects to bid low to win the project and then
make all their profits on extra work in the form of change orders. This is less of a problem on residential
work, but the same battles over extras are often fought on a smaller scale. Since extra work is often done
cost plus, the owner loses any control of pricing of the extra work.

If an unscrupulous contractor provides the plans and specs, he may intentionally leave things out of the
contract with the intention of making a lot of money on extras. If an architect provides the plans and
specs, he may unintentionally omit some of the work, and the bidders are under no legal obligation to
point this out. They are just bidding on the plans as presented to them. The best contractors will point
this out and add a list of “exclusions” to the contract, identifying work that is not included in the contract
price.

Consider finishing touches such as light fixtures, appliances, ceiling fans, window treatments, floor
coverings, home entertainment, built-ins, painting and staining, landscaping, retaining walls, walkways,
patios, decks, gutters and downspouts. Whether or not these are included in your contract or purchased
separately, you should include them in your project budget.

Needless to say, there is a certain amount of discretion and interpretation involved in building plans. It is
impossible to specify every last nail, building detail, and installation technique. Contract language such
as “in a workmanlike manner” and “according manufacturer’s written instructions” are intended to
specify that work be done to reasonable industry standards.

However, do not assume that anything not drawn or written into the specs is included in the contract
price. Make as many product and material decisions beforehand to limit the use of allowances. Avoid
“hidden conditions”  by fully investigating the building site. If needed, hire experts such as engineers to
review potential problems before you break ground. Make all your design decisions ahead of time so you
don’t end up changing your mind during the project (owners changing their minds also drive a lot of
change orders).

Also, make sure your contract includes a clear and reasonable policy regarding change orders. The
contact should make clear that no extra work should be performed without you agreeing in writing to
the work and its cost – before the work is executed. This prevents the scenario where the owner is
surprised at the end of the job with a large bill for extra work they were never made aware of. This
should never happen.

There are many possible causes of cost overruns. These are a fact of life in construction projects, which is
why banks add a 5% to 10% contingency fee to construction loans. Controlling costs, without
compromising quality, is a challenge for both the owner and the contractor. The best approach, in my
opinion, is the start with very detailed plans and written specs, and find a contractor with integrity and a
sterling reputation – and this is rarely the low bidder.

Best of luck!

Reply

Virginia says

November 30, 2017 at 9:20 pm

What Specs Should I Expect on Custom Home?

Do custom do builders provide extensive spec sheets or do they formulate these in the contract? How
about details on what constitutes a change order, and any extra charges and fees?

Reply

buildingadvisor says

November 30, 2017 at 9:24 pm

Detailed plans and specifications, known as the “scope of work” are a critical part of any construction
contract. The scope of work should define with a lot of specificity what work is to be completed under
the contract. It may also state what work is excluded from the contract – equally valuable information to
the consumer.

Without detailed plans and specs, you have no way to know what you are getting for your money. You
are buying a “pig in a poke”. In general, the plans show what is to be built. The specs describe in detail
the materials to be used and how they will be installed.

The degree of details in the specifications can vary a great deal from one contractor to the next. The
more detail the better.

Here, for example, are some examples of new home specs:

• Good sample specs
• Better sample specs
• Best sample specs

The first on the list (Good) describes the heating system as “Individual room zoned electric baseboard.
Heat pump, Geothermal, or oil heat (optional).
The second (Better) specifies a Bryant high-efficiency electric furnace.
The third (Best) specifies: a Trane S-Series 96% Gas Furnace with Variable Speed Blower in primary zone.
Thermostats Programmable digital thermostats that has remote access controlled with any smartphone,
tablet or computer. Air Filters Included Ultra efficient Merv 13 air filters will offer superior indoor air
quality. Fresh Air Ventilation System Aprilaire with powered damper and filter.

The contract should also cover the conditions under which change orders will be issued and how they
will be priced. Change orders can result from changes made by the client, hidden conditions on the job
site (like buried ledge), changes required by the building code, or items that were left out of the initial
plans and specs either intentionally or accidentally.

It’s best to make as many decisions as you can and to get them priced before starting construction. Also,
if anything is unclear, or you are not sure if something is included in the scope of work, ask for additional
detail.

A good question to ask the builder is: Are there any additional costs that I can expect to pay before the
house is ready to move into – including landscaping and any fees for permits, inspections, utility
hookups, and municipal fees such “impact fees.” These multi-thousand-dollar fees, called by a lot of
different names, can hit you like a ton of bricks at the end of a job. Ask the same question about fees to
the local building and zoning departments to see if their information matches the builder’s.

Best of luck with your new home!

Read more on Detailed Plans & Specs

Reply

Paul says

March 15, 2017 at 1:24 pm

Concerns About Unclear Specs & Cost Overruns

We are building an reasonably high-end 700m2 home in Bedfordale WA. We have engaged a builder
(who is also a friend) and have signed a contract (havent paid a deposit yet), but have a few misgivings
about the lack of detail in the contract – ie: “We have allowed x for this, but you may not use it all so
there will be leftover to use that money somewhere else” etc. From our experience, everything normally
ends up costing more than allowed, so we are worried about nasty surprises/variations etc. We want to
get an detailed independant spec written that covers everything – and get the builder to put a cost
against each item/area, so everything is locked down. We are prepared to pay a significant sum to get
this done, but i am struggling to find someone who will do this type of thing who is not tied to their own
builder/builders but is completely independant. A further requirement that would be great, is that
person to make regular checks and inspections to make sure the building is up to standard. look forward
to you response. Regards Paul

Reply

buildingadvisor says

March 15, 2017 at 1:30 pm

You are absolutely right that most things end up costing more, not less, than estimated on an allowance
or non-binding estimate. And incomplete or fuzzy plans and specs is one of the leading causes of cost
overruns. It sounds like you know what you need to do – nail down the plans, specs, and costs – but
need some help doing it.

If you used an architect or other independent designer on this project, that is the first place I would look.
It is part of an architect’s job to provide detailed plans and specs that are clear enough to get you a fixed
bid with minimal use of allowances. The allowances should be very specific and generally for materials
only. For example, $6/sq. ft. for ceramic tile. That way you can determine beforehand whether the
allowance price is reasonable.

If the builder supplied the plan, then the responsibility to provide detailed plans and specs would fall to
him. If he is unable or unwilling to provide a fixed bid with fewer unknowns, then you may have to find
another builder or trust that this one will treat you fairly. I am very leery of contractors who will only
work cost-plus. It sounds like you have a hybrid contract – part fixed bid, part cost-plus. The more you
can nail down costs, the better you will be in the long run.

If you want to find an independent third-party to provide these services, you will have to do some
digging and may need different people for each task. It is possible that you can find an architect,
engineer, or construction manager to step in at this point to nail down the plans and specs. They can also
do inspections during the course of the work to make sure the work meets quality standards and
complies with the plans/specs. The inspections done by municipal building inspectors focus exclusively
on compliance to the building code, a very minimal standard.

If your main concern is construction quality, you can hire a private building inspector to inspect the
project at key points. Minimally, you need an inspection pre-dry-wall and at completion. A more
thorough inspection schedule would be: Foundation and drainage complete (pre-backfill), framing
complete, dry in (but before exterior cladding), rough plumbing and electrical (pre-drywall), and
completion. At “dry-in,” your inspector can get a good look at housewrap details and wall and window
flashings, which are common problem areas for water leakage.

Your inspector should provide you with a list problems at each stage of construction that your builder
needs to address. The final list can serve as your punchlist.

The inspections may annoy your builder friend, but having third-party inspections is a common practice
in some high-end U.S. markets. Whether or not it is a good idea to use your friend as your contractor is
another question. As the Russian proverb goes, “Trust, but verify.”

Read more on:  Estimating Errors    Allowances   Cost-Plus Contracts

Reply

Ray says

October 2, 2016 at 7:53 pm

Where to Get Bathroom Specs

I’m look for a remodeling specification for a residential bathroom. Where can I find a sample spec?
Thank you.

Reply

buildingadvisor says

October 2, 2016 at 8:08 pm

Wish I had an easy answer for you, but I am not aware of any ready-made specs for residential building
projects. A couple of people have tried to assemble and sell residential specs in the past, but they are no
longer on the market.

The National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA) publishes excellent kitchen and bath design guidelines,
which help designers with sizes, clearances, and functional layouts, but do not include construction
specifications for things such as ceramic tile installation. For ceramic tile specs, you would need to go to
buy the TCNA Handbook from the Tile Council of North America.

For other materials and products, you need to go the individual trade associations or product
manufacturers for accepted industry standards.

At the end of the day, each contractor and designer is left to develop their own specifications that they
are comfortable with. The goal is to set the bar high enough to meet or exceed established industry
standards, but not so high that they are cannot be realistically met. Many contractors do not provide
written specifications for their projects other than the most basic like “one coat primer and one topcoat,
latex paint” – it’s up to the owner or architect to provide more detailed specs.

Best of luck and please let me know if you find anything else out there so I can pass along the info.

Reply

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