At-Home Training Plan For Bouldering Strength Reference Document

At-Home
Training Plan for Bouldering Strength
Reference Document

Contents

How to use this plan: 2
Additional Advice 3
Required equipment 3
Warming up 3
Suitability of our plans 3
Calibration of your plan 3
A - Warm-up (30 mins) 4

Purpose 4
A1 - Cardio Warm Up 4
A2 - Dynamic Stretching Warm up 4
A3 - Fingerboard Warm Up 5
B – Finger Strength Training 5

Purpose 5
Description 5
Finger Strength Training 6
C – Arm Strength Training 7

Purpose 7
Description 7
C1 - Max Weight Pull-ups 7
C2 - Offset Pull-ups 7
C3 - One-armed Negatives 8
C4 - One-armed Pull-ups 8
D – Core Strength Training 9

Purpose 9
Description 9
D1 - V-Sits 9
D2 - Windshield Wipers 10
D3 - Bicycles 10
D4 - Hanging Leg-raises 10
D5 - Toes to Hands 11
D6 - Body Tucks 11
D7 - Front Levers 12
D8 - Slow-motion Twisting Kicks 12
E – Antagonist Strength Training 13

Purpose 13
Description 13
E1 - Sphinx Push-ups 13
1

E2 - Feet Raised Push-ups 13

E3 - Archer Push-ups 14
E4 - Wide Push-ups 14
E5 - Spiderman Push-ups 14
E6 - Superman Push-ups 15
E7 - Is, Ys and Ts 15
F – Stretching and Reflection 16

Purpose 16
Description 16
G1 - Stretching Sequence 1 16
How to use this plan:

Although we would rather focus on movement and mindset skills as well as physical attributes,
with our options being limited we may as well all get mega strong!

We have split our training areas into 4 key areas; Fingers, Arms, Core and Antagonist.

The At-Home Training Plan for Bouldering Strength is targeted towards exactly what the title
says… improving your strength for bouldering!

The specific aims of this plan are:
- Improve Finger strength (be able to hold smaller holds)
- Improve Arm strength (work towards one arm pull-ups)
- Improve Core strength (work towards front-levers)
- Improve Antagonist strength (maintain health whilst strengthening other areas)

Our training plans are easy to follow; whether you are using the Hero Plan (involves two-armed
hangs) or the Titan Plan (involves one-armed hangs), you will always follow the same 3 day
cycle:
- Day 1 - Cardio, dynamic stretching, fingerboard warm-up, Fingers workout, core
workout, antagonist workout, stretching.
- Day 2 - Cardio, dynamic stretching, fingerboard warm-up, arms workout, core workout,
antagonist workout, stretching.
- Day 3 - REST :D

It is entirely up to you whether you use the Hero Plan or the Titan Plan, or a mix of both. If you
are at all unsure, please get in touch with us so we can advise!

We recommend that you perform 8 cycles of 3 days, before performing another 2 cycles with
all exercises at 50% intensity (e.g. if you were hanging off a certain edge with 10kg during the
first 8 cycles, you should hang with only 5kg during the final 2 cycles.)

Your first session will be used to work out your current level, taking plenty of rest and taking
notes whilst trying out the exercises included in this plan to determine at what intensity you
should be performing each exercise. If you have any questions about this, please email us at
enquiries@catalystclimbing.com. After that, you can get started right away!
2

The spreadsheets provided give guidance on which exercises to do and when, and should be
used to keep notes on your progress!

Additional Advice

Required equipment
We have aimed for this training plan to require the minimal amount of equipment!
Essential:
- a fingerboard (we have used a Beastmaker 1000 when designing this plan, but it can be easily
adapted for any fingerboard - please contact us through enquiries@catalystclimbing.com if
you would like any advice at all!)
- a length of rope/ strap
- some method of adding weight to yourself (a weight vest/ harness/belt with weight attached/
a rucksack filled with heavy objects)
- a floor

Ideal:
- a pulley system
Warming up
Although we aren’t going to be on the climbing wall, we still have to warm up! When training,
especially on fingerboards, it is vital to be full warmed up before starting. Please follow our guidelines
for the warmup to reduce the risk of injury and allow for maximum gains during your training session
;D

Suitability of our plans
Although we want our training plans to be accessible for everyone, we also want to be wary of
students sustaining an injury from taking on too much too fast. In order to use our plans safely (though
of course, when training hard, there is always a risk of injury) we advise that climbers are:
- Able to, after fully warming up, comfortably hang with two hands from a 15mm edge, with no
additional weight.
- Are over the age of 16/ have finished going through puberty.

Calibration of your plan
Everyone will begin their training at different starting points, so it is important to calibrate accordingly.
On the day before your first session, please complete the usual cardio, dynamic stretching and
fingerboard warm up before gradually going through each of the exercises listed in our plans. Only
complete one set of each exercise, take notes, and try to build a picture of where you are with each
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exercise. It is expected that your first day of training will be used to calibrate each exercise so you
know where to start in your first session!

A - Warm-up (30 mins)

Purpose

Prepare for your climbing session by performing a three-stage warm up of cardio, dynamic
stretching and easy climbing. Completing this warm up will reduce the likelihood of injury, and
give you the additional benefit of feeling stronger and more flexible.

A1 - Cardio Warm Up
Aim Raise your pulse, temperature and increase blood-flow to the extremities. This
is the first stage in a warm up for a training session, and is essential to reduce
risk of injury and improve performance.

Exercise Option 1:

A quick run! Alternate your speed between slow paced and as-fast-as-possible every
500m (a rough approximation will do, for example running around your block) for a
total of 5 alternations. Use the your training plan spreadsheet to fill out your times!

Option 2:
(For those with limited space)
- 20 Jumping Jacks
- 20 Mountain Climbers
- 20 Star Jumps
- 10 Burpees
Stop for a drink of water, then repeat two more times.
Time 10 minutes
Video demo Cardio Warm Up

A2 - Dynamic Stretching Warm up
Aim To “loosen up” the joints before beginning climbing.
Exercise Starting with the toes, work upwards through every joint of the body, performing circles
or clenches as appropriate. Complete 5 circles/clenches at a very slow speed to ensure
full range of movement, followed by 5 circles/clenches at a fast speed as a challenge of
coordination.

4

Dynamic Routine (from bottom to top of the body)

1. Toe clenches/ extensions
2. Ankle circles (either direction)
3. Knee circles (either direction)
4. Leg circles (either direction)
5. Hip circles (either direction)
6. Shoulder shrugs (either direction)
7. Arm circles (either direction)
8. Elbow circles (either direction)
9. Wrist circles (either direction)
10. Finger clenches/ extensions
11. Head turns (side to side + up and down, slow only)
Time 5 minutes
Video demo Dynamic Stretching Warm Up

A3 - Fingerboard Warm Up
Aim Get the fingers and the arms warmed up for some hard pulling!
Exercise Hero warm up Titan warm up

- 5 x Shoulder shrugs on jugs - 5 x Shoulder shrugs on jugs
- 5 x Pull ups on jugs - 5 x Pull ups on jugs
- 5 x Shoulder shrugs on 40mm - 5 x Shoulder shrugs on 15mm
edges edges
- 5 x Pull ups on 40mm edges - 5 x Pull ups on 15mm edges
- 5 x 5 sec hangs on 15mm edges - 5 x Shoulder shrugs on 10mm
(The above can be performed with feet edges
resting on a chair if need be!) - 5 x Pull ups on 10mm edges
Time 10 minutes
Video demo Fingerboard Warm Up - Hero Plan

Fingerboard Warm Up - Titan Plan

B – Finger Strength Training
Purpose
To get strong fingers for holding small holds! Our plans are focused on bouldering, so be aware
that this protocol is designed towards maximum finger strength rather than endurance.
Description

With the Hero plan you will be using two-armed hangs, whereas with the Titan plan you will be
using one-armed hangs.
5

The sections below will give detail on how to perform the exercises, as well as various other
useful bits of knowledge!

Finger Strength Training
Calibration Whether hanging with one arm or two, the aim is to be able to hang from your
chosen edge for a maximum of 7 seconds. If you are unable to hang an edge for
more than 4 seconds, it is too difficult, whereas if you can hang for more than 7
seconds with ease, it is too easy!
To make your hangs easier/ harder to fit your plan, we recommend using a pulley and
weights system, strap, or mixing up your combinations of holds/ fingers. Have a look
at this video for more guidance!
Timing Two-armed hangs

- Hang from your chosen edge for c.7 seconds, with arms straight and
shoulders engaged.
- Rest for 2 minutes and repeat for a total of 3 sets.

One-armed hangs

- Start with your weaker arm (e.g. LEFT)
- Hang from your chosen edge with your LEFT hand for c.7 seconds, with arm
straight and shoulder engaged.
- Rest for 30 seconds.
- Hang from your chosen edge with your RIGHT hand for c.7 seconds, with
arm straight and shoulder engaged.
- Rest for 2 minutes and repeat for a total of 3 sets.

Grip use We recommend using only the “half crimp” grip type on flat edges.
Safety There are 3 main points of safety to be aware of when using the fingerboard.
- Ensure you are fully warmed up before starting.
- Be wary of the grip type you use.
- Ensure you stay engaged in your shoulders when hanging (don’t hang on
your skeleton!)
Pro Tip Take notes and records of your hang times so that you can see progression, and
don’t worry if you don’t see progress every time you train. If you are lacking
motivation during a hang, think about a move/ climb/ competition which really
motivates you. If you are lacking motivation to train at all because you feel weak
compared to the day before, have a look at your progression over a longer time
period rather than only looking at your results from yesterday ;)
Video demo Fingerboard Tutorial - Hero Plan

Fingerboard Tutorial - Titan Plan

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C – Arm Strength Training

Purpose
The long term goal is to be able to pull up and lock with one arm! The exercises below will have
you working towards that goal in various ways.
Description
In this training plan, we address finger strength and arm strength as separate areas. Finger
strength and Arm strength will never be included in the same session, and arm strength
exercises must always be completed on jugs rather than small edges!

C1 - Max Weight Pull-ups
Aim To complete 3 pull ups with the largest amount of additional weight possible!
Calibration Attach weight to yourself using a weight vest, a harness/ belt with weight hung from it,
or a backpack full of heavy objects if need be!
It will take a little experimentation, but the aim is to decide how much additional weight
you can add whilst still being able to complete 3 pull ups!
Timing Complete 3 pull ups (1 set) then rest for 2 minutes minimum before sets 2 and 3.
Grip use Only use jugs for this exercise!
Safety Ensure you are fully warmed up before starting this exercise, and be aware that you
may be much “clumsier” than usual when attached to a large amount of weight.
Pro Tip Try to keep static rather than kicking your legs for momentum, and make sure your
chin goes above your hands for a full rep!
Video demo Max Weight Pull-Ups

C2 - Offset Pull-ups
Aim To complete 3 “offset” pull-ups of maximum intensity on each side (with additional
weight if necessary). Hang a rope/ strap from one side of your training set up, and use
this for assistance whilst doing the majority of the pulling with your other hand, which
should be on a jug!
Calibration The first method to calibrate difficulty would be to move your hand higher or lower on
the rope/strap you are using for assistance. Moving your hand lower will give you less
7

assistance, whereas moving your hand higher will give you more assistance. If you are
able to complete 3 offset pull-ups with your supporting hand starting at waist height,
it’s time to add some weight! If you are unable to complete 3 offset pull-ups with your
hand starting above head height, we suggest using a pulley system to remove some of
your weight.
Timing Complete 3 offset pull-ups (1 set) then rest for 2 minutes minimum before sets 2 and
3.
Safety Ensure you are fully warmed up before starting this exercise, and be aware that you
may be much “clumsier” than usual when attached to a large amount of weight.
chin goes above your hands for a full rep!
Video demo Offset Pull-Ups

C3 - One-armed Negatives
Aim To complete 3 “Negative” one armed pull-ups of maximum intensity on each side (with
additional weight if necessary).
Calibration For a successful “negative”, it should take a minimum of 4 seconds to lower yourself,
and a maximum of 7. To make this exercise harder, add small amounts of weight until
3 repetitions on each arms feels like your physical limit. To make this easier, we
recommend using a pulley system to remove some of your weight.
Timing Complete 3 negative one armed pull-ups on each side (1 set) then rest for 2 minutes
minimum before sets 2 and 3.
Safety Ensure you are fully warmed up before starting this exercise, and be very careful
Pro Tip Try to hold evenly at each position as you lower down, rather than dropping in to the
position you are most comfortable with and holding there.
Video demo One-armed Negatives

C4 - One-armed Pull-ups
Aim The name says it all, really! The aim is to complete 3 one-armed pull-ups on each arm
for one full set, either using assistance to make this possible or adding additional
weight (if you’re already a complete monster!)
Calibration For most it will be necessary to use a pulley system for weighted assistance in order to
complete 3 one armed pull-ups on each side
8

Timing Starting with your weaker side, complete 3 one armed pull-ups on, rest for 30
seconds, then switch sides and complete 3 more one armed pull-ups for a full set.
Rest for a minimum of 2 minutes between each set.
Safety Ensure you are fully warmed up before starting this exercise… it’s obviously going to
be quite hard!
shoulder touches against your hand for a full rep!
Video demo One-armed Pull-Ups

D – Core Strength Training

Purpose
To build a core of iron, so that you will be able to hold tension in the hardest of positions and
reach your feet to far footholds on steep ground.
Description
The exercises below will have you working towards that goal in various ways.

D1 - V-Sits
Aim Work your core with this exercise by lying on your back, simultaneously raising your
back and legs off the floor and, keeping your arms and legs straight, touching your
hands and toes together.
Calibration To begin with, aim to complete 3 sets of 10 repetitions. If this becomes easy, move up
to 3 sets of 15 reps. Once this becomes easier, begin adding gradually increasing
amounts of weight to your ankles and hands!
Timing You should aim to complete your chosen number or reps without rest to complete
your whole set. Rest for 2 minutes between sets.
Safety This exercise can be a little uncomfortable if performed on a hard surface; it would be
best to do this on a yoga mat if available!
9

Pro Tip Don’t rush this exercise; it is harder to go slower, and will allow you to focus on
keeping good form.
Video Demo V - Sits

D2 - Windshield Wipers
Aim Lay on your back, raise your legs directly up, then keep them straight whilst lowering
them from side to side to try to touch (but not rest on) the floor. One touch on either
side is equal to 1 rep.
amounts of weight to your ankles!
keeping good form.
Video Demo Windshield Wipers

D3 - Bicycles
Aim Lay on your back and hold your fingers against your temples. Touch your Right elbow
to your left knee (requiring you to raise your back and chest from the floor whilst lifting
and bending your leg towards you). Lower them back down, then do the same on the
opposite side to complete 1 rep.
amounts of weight to your ankles and hands!
Timing You should aim to complete your chosen number or reps without rest to complete your
whole set. Rest for 2 minutes between sets.
keeping good form.
Video Bicycles
Demo

D4 - Hanging Leg-raises
10

Aim Hang from jugs (with shoulders engaged). Straighten your legs out in front of you
before slowly lowering them down again.
Calibration Start off by attempting to complete 3 sets of 10 reps in which you bring your knees up
to 90 degrees from your waist before lowering them down again. When this becomes
easy, bring your knees up before extending your legs and lowering down slowly. Once
this becomes easy, keep your legs straight throughout the exercises. When you are
able to complete 3 sets of 10 reps with ease, it is time to progress to the Toes to
Hands exercise!
Safety Ensure you keep your shoulders engaged when hanging from jugs.
keeping good form.
Video Demo Hanging Leg-raises

D5 - Toes to Hands
Aim Hang from jugs (with shoulders engaged). Keeping your legs straight, raise your toes
until they reach the same height as your hands before lowering them down slowly for 1
rep.
Calibration Begin by aiming to complete 3 sets of 15 reps. Once this becomes easy, begin adding
weight to your ankles to increase the difficulty.
keeping good form.
Video Demo Toes to Hands

D6 - Body Tucks
Aim Hang from jugs and, using the strength in your back, shoulders and core, tuck your
body up so that your back is parallel to the floor and hold for 1 second for a complete
rep.
Calibration Begin by aiming to complete 3 sets of 10 reps. Once this becomes easy, begin to
steadily lengthen the amount of time you spend in the tucked position. Once you are
able to complete 3 sets of 10 reps, holding the tucked position for 3 seconds each
time, you should progress to the Front Levers exercise.
11

keeping good form.
Video Demo Body Tucks

D7 - Front Levers
Aim Hang from jugs and, using the strength in your back, shoulders and core, and keeping
your entire body straight, raise yourself up so that you are parallel to the floor.
Calibration The full version of this exercise is HARD. Starting with a body tuck, extend one of your
legs out straight and hold that position for 1 - 3 seconds before lowering back down
slowly. Alternate legs on each rep. Once you are able to easily complete the full
number of reps and sets with this method, start straightening one of your legs before
pulling in to the tucked position. When this becomes easy, keep both legs straight for
the duration of the exercise, and if that somehow becomes easy too, begin adding
weight to your ankles to increase the difficulty further.
keeping good form.
Video Demo Front Levers

D8 - Slow-motion Twisting Kicks
Aim Hang from jugs, raise yourself into the tucked position, and slowly kick your leg directly
out in front of you (parallel to the floor) before pulling the leg back in and doing the
same with the other for 1 full rep.
amounts of weight to your ankles!
keeping good form.
Video Demo Slow-motion Twisting Kicks

12

E – Antagonist Strength Training
Purpose
To develop the various types of strength which are not often used when climbing, but will keep
your body healthy and stable as you develop in other areas.
Description
The exercises below will have you working towards that goal in various ways.

E1 - Sphinx Push-ups
Aim In push-up position, place your hands close to your chest and below your shoulders.
Keeping your elbows close to your body, lower yourself to the ground and press back
up again for 1 full rep.
Calibration Begin by performing this exercise with your knees on the floor, aiming for 3 sets of 10
reps. Once this becomes easy, perform the exercise without your knees on the floor.
Once you are reliably able to complete 3 sets of 10 reps, start aiming for 3 sets of 15
reps. When this becomes easy, begin adding weight (placed above your shoulders) to
further increase the difficulty.
Safety Keep an eye on your form when performing this exercise; the most common mistakes
are to allow the hips and the head to sag or dip, so be mindful of this!
Pro Tip This exercise targets your triceps and chest, which are typically weak areas for
climbers. Keep those elbows in!
Video Sphinx Push-Ups

Demo

E2 - Feet Raised Push-ups
Aim Perform push-ups with your lower body raised c.50cm from the floor.
Calibration Begin by placing your knees on a raised surface, and aim to complete 3 sets of 10
push-ups of each variation (hands by shoulders, hands above head, hands below
shoulders). Once this becomes easy, place your feet rather than knees on the raised
surface and aim to complete the 3 sets of 10 reps. When you are able to complete this
reliably, start doing sets of 15 reps, and finally begin adding weight (placed above the
shoulders) to increase the difficulty.
13

Safety Ensure your hands aren’t going to slip whilst performing this exercise!
Pro Tip Focus on good form rather than a high number of reps when performing this exercise;
concentrate on keeping your body straight, not allowing your head or hips to dip.
Video Demo Feet Raised Push-ups

E3 - Archer Push-ups
Aim With your hands placed outside your shoulders, perform push-ups whilst going
side-to-side to put your chest close to one of your hands on each rep.
Video Demo Archer Push-ups

E4 - Wide Push-ups
Aim With your hands placed as far apart as you can manage (whilst still being able to
perform the exercise) perform push-ups!
Video Demo Wide Push-ups

E5 - Spiderman Push-ups
14

Aim Lie face down, and extend your arms outwards as far as possible, with palms facing
down. Close your hands, place your fingers against the floor, and open your hands
again, so that your fingers remain in place but your hands and arms are moved closer
to you. Perform a push-up!
Video Demo Spiderman Push-ups

E6 - Superman Push-ups
Aim Lie face down, and extend your arms upwards as far as possible, with palms facing
down. Close your hands, place your fingers against the floor, and open your hands
again, so that your fingers remain in place but your hands and arms are moved closer
to you. Perform a push-up!
Video Superman Push-ups

Demo

E7 - Is, Ys and Ts
Aim Lie face down on the ground with your knees tucked in (Yoga’s “child’s pose”).
For “I”s, extend your arms upwards, and try to lift them as high as possible behind you,
holding for 3 seconds each time for 1 full rep.
For “Y”s, extend your arms diagonally upwards and outwards, and try to lift them as
high as possible behind you, holding for 3 seconds each time for 1 full rep.
For “T”s, extend your arms outwards, and try to lift them as high as possible behind
you, holding for 3 seconds each time for 1 full rep.
15

Calibration This exercise is about quality rather than intensity. Begin by aiming to complete 3 sets
of 10 reps. When this becomes east, aim for 3 sets of 15 reps. When this becomes
easy, extend the length of time for each rep, and try to raise your arms higher from the
ground rather than adding weights.
Safety It’s pretty tricky to get injured with this exercise, but focus on good form throughout to
ensure you are benefitting from it!
Pro Tip Despite the fact that this may feel very low intensity compared to other exercises on
this plan; don’t overlook or skip this - it is really helpful for ensuring long-term health in
your upper body.
Video Demo I’s, Y’s and T’s

F – Stretching and Reflection
Purpose
To improve recovery by stretching out sore muscles and to improve flexibility, whilst giving
yourself time to think over your session.
Description
Use the stretching sequence below as a basis, but feel free to add your own. To maximise
flexibility gains, wait for 30 minutes after you finish climbing before beginning your stretching
routine.

G1 - Stretching Sequence 1
Aim Improve recovery and flexibility.
Exercise 1. Shoulder Stretch 1, 30 seconds on each side

2. Shoulder Stretch 2, 30 seconds on each side
3. Forearm Stretch 1, 30 seconds
4. Forearm Stretch 2, 30 seconds
5. Chest Stretch, 30 seconds on each side
6. Hamstring Stretch, 30 seconds on each side
7. Hip Opener 1, 1 minute
8. Hip Opener 2, 1 minute
Time 6 - 30 minutes (times given above are for 6 minute set of stretches. Simply multiply the
amount of time spent in each stretch if you wish to stretch for longer.)
Focus Try to relax into each stretch rather than push into them. Relax into the stretch as you
exhale, and come out of each stretch slowly.
Pro Tip This is a great time to reflect on your session:
16

Think of 3 things you’d like to do better

Think of 3 things you were really happy with
Think about what emotions you felt during your session (e.g. psyched, frustrated)
Identify why you felt these emotions.
Video Stretching
Demo

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A - Warm-up (30 mins) 4

B – Finger Strength Training 5

C – Arm Strength Training 7

D – Core Strength Training 9

E – Antagonist Strength Training 13

E2 - Feet Raised Push-ups 13

F – Stretching and Reflection 16

How to use this plan:

A - Warm-up (30 mins)

Exercise Option 1:

Video demo Cardio Warm Up

Aim To “loosen up” the joints before beginning climbing.

Dynamic Routine (from bottom to top of the body)

Video demo Dynamic Stretching Warm Up

Exercise Hero warm up Titan warm up

Video demo Fingerboard Warm Up - Hero Plan

B – Finger Strength Training

Timing Two-armed hangs

Video demo Fingerboard Tutorial - Hero Plan

C – Arm Strength Training

Grip use Only use jugs for this exercise!

Video demo Max Weight Pull-Ups

Grip use Only use jugs for this exercise!

Video demo Offset Pull-Ups

Grip use Only use jugs for this exercise!

Video demo One-armed Negatives

Grip use Only use jugs for this exercise!

Video demo One-armed Pull-Ups

D – Core Strength Training

Video Demo V - Sits

Video Demo Windshield Wipers

Video Demo Hanging Leg-raises

Video Demo Toes to Hands

Video Demo Body Tucks

Video Demo Front Levers

Video Demo Slow-motion Twisting Kicks

E – Antagonist Strength Training

Video Sphinx Push-Ups

Video Demo Feet Raised Push-ups

Video Demo Archer Push-ups

Video Demo Wide Push-ups

Video Demo Spiderman Push-ups

Video Superman Push-ups

Video Demo I’s, Y’s and T’s

F – Stretching and Reflection

Aim Improve recovery and flexibility.

Exercise 1. Shoulder Stretch 1, 30 seconds on each side

Pro Tip This is a great time to reflect on your session:

Think of 3 things you’d like to do better

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