Maya The Bee

Willy Pattern
designed by Vanja Grundmann
Amigurumibb 2013-2015
Materials neerfecf:

— 2,0 mm crochet hook

— sport weight cotton yarn (4 ply) in:
— beige-orange-yellowish color for the body (difficult color to find, but if
you have to choose between more orange(yellowish) or more beige like
one, go for beige. Take Maya’s or Willy's photo with you when going to
buy yarn, and use them as your guide. That is best suggestion I can
give. Like said not easy color to find.) I used 100g for Maya and Willy
— black color yarn (body stripes) 50g will be more than enough
— light yellow yarn for Maya’s hair (50 g)
— brown yarn for Willy's hair
— white yarn for the wings
— stuffing of your choice
— needle for closing and sewing the parts together,
— long sharp pointed needle for applying antennas on (I used long tapestry
needle),
— longer sharp pointed needle for adding eyes (if you’ll make them my way)
— carbon copy paper (for coping and reproducing same looking eyes I have
made on my dolls and created stencils for you)
— textile paints for eyes
— white
— green
— black
you can use bottled paints and if having difficulties finding those, you can
use pen looking ones, but in this case, squeeze the paint in little saucer
and apply with fine brush (this way you can apply it in details and fill all
the gaps between stitches).
I haven't tried with acrylic paint, but as long as they are thick and don't run
through your crocheted work (try this on little swatch before applying it on doll's
face), will work fine.
— round brushes in sizes 1 and 2/0 (or any other fine brush you have)
— 6-10 mm yellow beads for antenna's ends (any kind of round beads will work
well. I used natural wooden ones that I colored in yellow with marker)
— clear textile glue
— pipe cleaner, fuzzy wire (antennas) — you can use them in arms and
legs to make limbs bendable (or, instead you can use plain wire, nicely
wrapped and mounted inside the limbs)
— eye shadow, powder blush, chalk or crayons in light pink; all these will
work great to add little color to cheeks
— if anything I’ve forgotten to mention in this section, sorry.... it happens :) -
you will find it mentioned in the pattern

Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015 1

Finished size:

Maya standing, from head to toes (without antennas) 25 cm

(10”) Willy standing, from head to toes (without antennas) 28
cm (11")

Gac/ge:

8 rounds x 6 stitches in 1square inch (2,5 cm)

Abbreviations:
(US terminology)

st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
sc single crochet
ch chain
inc increasing stitch
(2 single crochet stitches worked in one stitch)
dec decreasing stitch
(two stitches together, invisible decrease used in this pattern)
nose 1.) yarn over, work through the next st, yarn over, pull out the
stitch loop. You have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through
2 loops . Two loops remain on the hook.
2.) Yarn over, work through the same stitch, yarn over, pull out
the loop. Having 4 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull the yarn through
2 loops. 3 loops remain on the hook.
3.) Yarn over, work through the same stitch, yarn over and pull out
the loop. Having 5 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through
2 loops. 4 loops remain on the hook.
4.) Yarn over, work through the same stitch, yarn over and pull out
the loop. Having 6 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through
2 loops. 5 loops remain on the hook.
5.) Yarn over and pull the loop through all 5 stitches.
This way Maya's nose is done.
For Willy’s nose repeat the same steps as mentioned at Maya's nose:
1.-4.)
5.) Yarn over, work through same stitch, yarn over and pull out the
loop. Having 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through 2
loops. 6 loops remain on the hook.
6.) Yarn over and pull the yarn through 6 loops
fasten off
FO

Work in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified.

Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015

/gaya s Hearf

R1: sc8 in magic ring (8)

R2: inc8 (16)
R3: (inc, sc) x8 (24)
R4: (inc, sc2) x8 (32)
R5: (inc, sc3) x8 (40)
R6: (inc, sc4) x8 (48)
R7-R16: sc48
R17: (inc, sc) x4, nose stitch, sc, (inc, sc) x4, sc30
(56)
R18-R23: sc56
R24: (dec, sc) x4, sc2, (dec, sc) x4, sc30 (48)
R25: (sc4, dec) x8 (40)
R26: (dec, sc3) x8 (32)
R27: (sc2, dec) x8 (24)
R28: (dec, sc2) x6 (18)
Fasten off.
Stuff the head very firmly. Take your time to stuff it and shape it to nice round and firm head,
with cheeks slightly pointing out.
Head needs to be stuffed well.

Willy’s heacf
R1: sc8 in magic ring (8)
R2 sc8
R3: inc8 (16)
R4: sc16
RS: (inc, sc) x8 (24)
R6: sc24
R7: (inc, sc2) x8 (32)
R8: sc32
R9: (inc, sc3) x8 (40)
R10: sc40
R11: (inc, sc4) x8 (48)
R12-R19: sc48
R20: (inc, sc) x4, nose stitch, sc, (inc, sc) x4, sc30 (56)
R21-R26: sc56
R27: (dec, sc) x4, sc2, (dec, sc) x4, sc30 (48)
R28: (sc4, dec) x8 (40)
R29: (dec, sc3) x8 (32)
R30: (sc2, dec) x8 (24)
R31: (dec, sc2) x6 (18)
Fasten off.
Stuff the head very firmly. Take your time to stuff it and shape it to nice round and firm head,
with cheeks slightly pointing out.
Head needs to be stuffed well.
Legs

Start with ch12

R1: sc12, 3 sc in one st, continue working around

chain, sc9, inc (24)

ch1, inc hdc, hdc x3, sc7, 3sc in one st, sc7, hdc3,
inc hdc x2, sl st to chain made at the beginning of this
round
(29)

R3: ch1, hdc, inc hdc, hdc x3, sc8,

inc2, sc8, hdc x3, inc hdc, hdc, inc
hdc,
st st to chain made at the beginning of this round

R4: ch1, BLO sc34

R5: ch1, sc13, dec, sc,
dec, sc16, st st to chain
(32)
R6: ch1, sc13, dec2, sc15, st st to (30)
chain R7: ch1, sc10, dec4, sc12, st st (26)
to chain
(22)
RB: ch1, dec, sc8, dec2, sc8, dec, sc2, sl st to
chain R9: ch1, sc8, dec2, sc8, dec, st st to chain
(19) (12)
R10: ch1, sc, dec, sc, dec, sc, dec2, sc, dec, sc, dec2, sl st to
chain stuff the foot nice and firm, paying attention to keep the
shape nice. R11: sc12
R12: skip sl st made when closing round 10. sc12
R13-R25: sc12
If making bendable legs, prepare wire, place inside the leg and add stuffing. If making toy for
I by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-
2015
child below age 3 don’t use wire or anything else but stuffing.

I by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-

2015
To start with the body we need to connect legs first. We'll do it by making little “bridge" over three
stitches placed on the inner side of each leg.
Start with right leg, using black colored yarn, sc over three stitches. On the photo I marked the stitches
I'll work through. There is no special count on these. Simply work over three middle stitches on the
inner legs side.

Work 3 rows x3 single crochets.

Once done with the bridge, bring left leg close and attach the bridge
over three stitches (you can work single crochets or slip stitches,
whichever suit you better, important is to connect the bridge with the
second leg).
This way we kept the same number of stitches (24), but have
created space between each leg.

Now that we have both legs attached and bridge formed, we can
start with our first found of the body.
Pay attention that you finish the bridge on the back of the left foot.
Look at the photo. Your first stitch next round should start on the
beige part of the leg.

R1: (sc9, inc3) x2 (30)

9 stitches will be worked over leg, while increases are done over the
bridge area)

R2: (inc, sc4) x6 (36)

R3: (inc, sc5) x6 (42)
R4-R5: sc42

Copynght by Van;a Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015

 on the last stitch change color to orange
filote• to maAe change co/or the feast v/sfo/e, make tñe s/ip stitcfi to tfie back loop ol’rhe fallowtng stltoh. ten
meke single crochef working through both loops of rhe same rtitch}where slip stftcA was just made}. When
starting next rot/nd, sfilp tAe sl/p stftcfi and cont/nue 'lth your round usual \+'ay.
R6-R10: sc42
on last stitch change color to black
R11: sc6, dec, sc24. Dec, sc6, (39)
dec R12: sc39
R13: sc5, dec, sc23, dec, sc5, dec (36)
R14-R15: sc36
on last stitch change color to
orange R16: sc4, dec, sc22, dec, sc4, (33)
dec
R17: sc33 (30)
R18: sc6, dec, sc19, dec, sc2, dec
R19-R20: sc30
on last stitch change color to (27)
black R21: sc6, dec, sc17, dec, sc, dec
R22: sc27 (24)
R23: sc6, dec, sc15, dec2
R24-R25: sc24
R26: (dec, sc2) x6 (18)
Fasten o1f leaving long end for sewing body to the head later. Stuff the body nice and firm.

rms
make 2

Make fingers first!

R1: sc5 in magic ring

R2-R4: sc5

Fingers {x2}
R1: sc4 in magic ring
R2-R4: sc4

Little Finger which continues to arm and hand making:

R1: sc4 in magic ring (4)

R2-R3: sc4 — continue making
hand

Copynght by Van;a Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013- 6

2015
 R4: add one of two fingers and single crochet 2 stitches on it
— bring next finger and work all 4 stitches over it
— continue stitching through the opposite side of hand (look at the photo)
(12)

R5: sc12

R6: sc3, add thumb and single crochet through both,

thumb and working piece through 2 following stitches, sc7 (12)

I by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-

2015
R7: sc3, sc3 (over thumb only), sc7 (13)

RB: sc11, dec (12)

R9: sc12
R10: (dec, sc2) x3
(9)
you can stuff the hand now. It doesn't need to be stuffed firmly. Add enough stuffing so it
doesnl stay flat.
R11-R25: sc9
FO leaving long end for sewing arm to the body later.
Stuff lightly with stuffing or add wire, fuzzy wire or pipe cleaner inside to make them bendable.
Sew arms on the sides of the body, in between rounds 2. and 3..

Maya's Hair
The fun part! Hair!
It will take some time to make it, but Maya is completely worth this extra trouble.

Hair cap

R1: sc8 in magic

ring R2: sc4,
ch1, turn
continue working in rows
R3: inc4 (8)
R4: (inc, sc) x4 (12)
R5: (inc, sc2) x4 (16)
R6: (inc, sc3) x4 (20)
R7: (inc, sc4) x4 (24)
RB: (inc, sc5) x4 (28)
R9-R14: sc28
R15: dec, sc24, dec (26)
R16: dec, sc22, dec (24)
R17: dec, sc20, dec (22)
Copynght by Van;a Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015
R18: dec, sc18, dec (20)
R18: dec, sc16, dec (18)
R20: dec, sc14, dec (16)
R21: skip 1‘ st, ”4sc in the next one, skip one st, sl st to next, skip one st” repeat 4 times

Once you finish the hair cap, pin it on /he head. Now you can start making hair pieces.
Make one row at file time and fallow photos which will gUide you w'here and how to
place them.
Once all hairs of each round are macfe and pinned yoU can start sewing them on.
At I/te end when hair cap (or wig) is completely done, you can glue it on Maya’s

fteacf. top flairs (3 of them)

R1: sc4 in magic ring R2: inc4 (8)
R3-R6: sc8
R7: (dec, sc2) x2 (6) R8: sc6
R9: (dec, sc) x2 (4)
Even though these little hairs make the top of the head. We will add them on the last. This is just
because it will be easier to follow the ring (round) on where to place our first round of hairs.
Now that you have them done, place them aside until
we finish placing all other hairs on the wig.

First round of hairs.

Smallest rzfnge:
R1: sc4 in magic ring
R2: inc4 (8)
R3-R6: sc8
R7: (dec, sc2) x2 (6)
R8: sc6
R9: (dec, sc) x2 (4)

Cogynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-

2015
R10: sc4

First round of the hair (continued from smallest fringe to each

side) It is made of two size pieces sewed on sequentially, small,
big...

When arranging your first round of hairs, let the front "ring" of single crochets guide you.
Align the hairs to same round all over the hair cap.

Sma// fta/re (x6): Big hates (x5):

R1: sc5 in magic R1: sc5 in magic
ring R2: inc5 (10)
ring R2: inc5 (10)
R3-R7: sc10
R3-R4: sc10
R8: (dec, sc3) x2
R5: (inc, sc) x5 (15)
(8) R9-R10: sc8 R6-R8: sc15
R11: dec4 (4)
R9: (dec, sc) x5 (10)
R12: sc4
R10-R11: sc10
R12: (dec, sc2) x2 (8)
R13: sc8
R14: dec4 (4)
R15: sc4

Cogynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013- 10

2015
First round finished! All hairs sewed.

Longer ones -placed under small ones Shorter ones -placed under bigger ones
attached on row1 attached on row1
(x4) (x3)
R1: sc5 in magic R1: sc5 in magic ring
ring R2: inc5 (10) R2: inc5 (10)
R3-R4: sc10 R3-R4: sc10
R5: (inc, sc) x5 (15) R5: (inc, sc) x5 (15)
R6-R11: sc15 R6-R11: sc15
R10: (dec, sc) x5 (10) R10: (dec, sc) x5 (10)
R11-R17: sc10 R11-R14: sc10

I by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-

11
2015
Long hairs (x4)

R1: sc5 in magic R1: sc5 in magic

ring R2: inM (10) ring R2: inc5 (10)
R3-R4: sc10 R3-R7: sc10
RS: (inc, sc) x5 R8: (dec, sc3) x2
(15) R6-R8: sc15 (8) R9-R10: sc8
R9: (dec, sc) x5 (10) R11: dec4 (4)
R10-R11: sc10 R12: sc4
R12: (dec, sc2) x2 (8)
R13: sc8
R14: dec4
(4) R15: sc4

Now that you have all hairs done and sewed, you can add little three top hairs on.

Now you can glue your hair cap on the head.

Apply glue at the inner cap side, place hair on the head, pin it around and let dry.

Copynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015 12

Antennas

While waiting for hair to dry (and until not dried yet) is time when to add antennas on.
I have forgotten to take photos of this part, where I placed antennas on Mayas or Willy’s
heads, but will show you on my model head how it is done. Important is that glue hasn't dried
yet. In that case it will be impossible to push the needle through the head and pull the fuzzy
wire through.

Here is what you’ll need for antennas and how to prepare them:

Glue, scissors, beads, long and sharp needle, fuzzy wire

(I havenl had black fuzzy wire when making my Mayas and Willies, so instead I worked with
white, and painted them black after mounted on head).
On photo below you can see how both, black and white look like. Whatever color you have or
can get, as long as if you have black paint, will work well.

Copynght by Van;a Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015 13

Cut fuzzy wire 7" long (17,5-18 cm). It is too
fuzzy for antennas so trim hairs short.

Attach the wire to a needle eye and pull it through the head (right after round 4 on each of the
heads Maya’s or Wills’s), from one side to the other.

Once you’re out with the wire, take it off

the needle, arrange both sides to be
equal length and bend upwards. Add
drop of glue on top of each antenna and
mount the bead on. Let glue dry
completely.

I by Vauje Grundnann, AmigurumBB 2013- 14

2015
Back to Maya's hair. Once the wig dries, apply little bit of glue beneath the hairs roots and pin.
This way the hair will keep nice shape and will look very nice.
If you like the way Maya’s hair is looking you can keep as it is. Many times how the hair will
stay and look will depend on the yarn used.
As I worked with cotton, it ended with hair pieces very stiff and firm, so I had to tame the hair
a IiNe.
If your hair ends wild, use little bit of glue beneath each hair and tame it a little.

Billy's Hair

front
R1: sc4 in magic ring
R2: (inc sc) x2 (6)
R3-R4: sc6
R5: (dec, sc) x2 (4)
R6-R7: 4
fasten o1T, hide ends

if/ddfe
R1: sc4 in magic ring
R2: (inc, sc) x2 (6)
R3: (inc, sc2) x2 (8)
R4-R5: sc8
R6: (dec, sc2) x2 (6)
R7-R8: sc6
R9: (dec, sc) x2 (4)
Fasten o1f, hide ends.

R1: sc4 in magic ring

R2: (inc sc) x2 (6)
R3-R5: sc6
R6: (dec, sc) x2 (4)
R7-R8: 4
Fasten o1T leaving long end for sewing hairs together and on the head.

Cogynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013- 15

2015
W?ngs (x2)

R1: sc6 in magic ring (6)

R2; inc6 (12)
R3: sc12
R4: (inc, sc) x6 (18)
R5-R9: sc18
R10: dec, sc16 (17)
R11: sc17
R12: dec, sc15 (16)
R13: sc16
R14: dec, sc14 (15)
R15: sc15
R16: dec, sc13 (14)
R17: sc14
R18: dec, sc12 (13)
R19: sc13
R20: dec, sc11 (12)
R21: sc12
R22: (dec, sc4) x2 (10)
Fasten o1T leaving long end for sewing wing later.

Below photo shows you how to sew the wings on the body. You can sew them close or
attached to each other, but I prefer to leave sew them with lower part little bit off the center,
while attaching first stitch on both wings together and close. Hope the photo helps you
understand how I do it. I also tried to mark the lines, where and how I sew each wing. The
horizontal lines you can see drawn on yellow stripe of the body, where wings will be attached
are the lines where each wing will be sewed. It looks little awkward or off the line, but this is
only because the body is crocheted in spiral. Once the wings will be on, it will look ok.

Copynght by Van;a Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013- 1

2015
Eyes

The part that most of you will be frighten to try!

Get your paints and brushes, take a deep breath and do it! You can do
it! I have tried to simplify and make it applicable and doable to
everyone.

To paint the eyes, as mention on the beginning of this pattern you will need textile paints
and at least two fine brushes. I worked with 1 and 2/0 but whichever round. No.1 I used for
filling in larger areas (such as eye’s white, or the base of each eye), while the very thin
and fine brush 2/0 I used for tiny spaces, adding dots, lines. (on my doll's eyes with
this brush I even
worked the iris and pupil as well, as they were very small in size).

What I have done to make it easier for you, as well as to make it possible you create eyes
identical to ones I painted on my dolls, is, I made a stencil for you.
I draw one eye, and then on PC mirror copied the second one.

What you have to do is simply copy each of these two images to matching size (size that
proportionally fits your doll's head and copy the outlines on your doll).
Yes, easy as this. On my second two dolls, I have worked exactly what you'll need to do
in order to create eyes you can see on my finished dolls.

Here is what your stencil looks like:

fayas Eyes

Copyright by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015 1

Willy’s Eyes

What will you need before starting to paint the eyes?

- Textile paints in
— white,
— green and
— black
I suggest to buy any of hobby paints that come in little 15mI bottles, and are created to be
applied on textiles. This way they will stay permanently on, even after washing your dolls in
washing machines (they can be machine washed to up to 60 degrees Celsius).
I haven't tried acrylic paints, but I believe they will work well (not sure how they might react if
washed, check about it on label or at your local store). You can use textile paints in
tubes or pencil like, but in this case, squeeze some paint on little saucer or piece or
piece of paper and use it with brush (instead of applying them from tube).
— brushes (fine, round)
- size 1
— size 2/0 or similar
- carbon copy paper in black color (your craft shop might have golden, white... but
for
this doll you'll need black)
— if your smaller brush will not be fine enough to make outlines on top of the eyes, get
yourself super fine black pen or marker (check to see how both react on your
yarn. You don't want to use anything your yarn would suck in time and instead of
line, ended up creating black smudge).
— Pins (for pinning your stencil and carbon copy on the head)
— pen or pencil (for drawing and coping the outlines)
— scotch tape for bringing together stencil eyes and carbon copy
Ready to start?

Matching fhe right eye size. Making copy

Print the stencils provided in this pattern and copy them to a matching size.
Your eyes should not exceed the size of:
- 6 rounds for Maya and
— 7 rounds for Willy
This is the only thing you'll have to pay attention to, and measure the size. Measure the
rounds height, copy and fit eyes matching this size.

Preparing carbon copy and eyes to be applied on the head.

Cut copied eyes to fitting head size. Size that you find easy to pin on the head and work with.
Get your carbon copy and cut the size that will match your paper eyes.

With scotch tape, on top middle, with tiny piece of tape, glue both pieces of paper together.
Carbon copy facing out (or the back of your eye copy).

Now we are ready to copy our eyes on doll's head.

Where to pin the eyes!?

As you can see, from the paper eyes I've cut the triangle. This opening will help me center
eyes on the head. Triangle will place on top of the nose.
Lower eye line has to fall right on
R17 of Maya's head, or
R20 of Willy's head
(or the round where we increased the head a little in front and added nose). In case you find
difficulties to match the eye line with the round, try cutting the paper little bit more (or fold it
up, observe....important is; do not rush! Painting eyes is not something you can do in half
hour, it will take few hours if not one whole day to finish them so take your time. Go slow and
double check twice before proceeding).

Now that eyes are placed to right spot, we can start coping them. With pencil or pen, draw
and copy the outline of both eyes. That will create our base, whole eye we will paint in white
later. Copied outline will not be very dark and very visible (it looks better on this photo but in
real was very light), but will be visible enough for you to work with and color it. Keep the
stencil eyes by hand at all time so you can check your work.

Ready to paint!

Get your white paint ready, and bmsh size 1 or similar and paint in white entire eye area
inside the outline you just made. Take your time to paint space between stitches. Turn your
doll up side down, sideways, observe eyes from all sides to make sure you painted this area
completely and right.

Copynght by Van;a Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015

As you finish applying white color on, set you doll aside and let paint dry completely. Only
when completely dry we can continue with next step.

Adding green color.

When your base or white color has dried completely, we can start applying green. In order to
make it, we have to make contour of middle eye part first.
Prepare your carbon copy.
Cut it short(er) following the lower eye line. Look at the photo to guide you. This way it will be
easier to match each eye’s carbon copy on already making eyes on the head.
Once cut and prepared, you can pin the carbon copy on the painted eyes and draw the
outline of the middle eye part.

Once you created new ouqine for this middle part, you can start painting it again.
Prepare you green paint, brush that you find fine enough for coloring this part and paint inside
the outline in green.

Cogynght by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013- 21

2015
Let green color dry completely.
Once dried, you have to use carbon copy one more time. This time coping only middle black
part.
I haven1 made the photos for that part. Somehow I forgot. Worked Maya and Willy at the
same time and in between both photo shoots, forgotten to take this pupil coping and applying
part. Procedure is the same!
Same as we did with white eye part, and green eye part, you can do with pupil part too. Pin
the carbon copy, copy the outline on where black part of each eye will be. Take the carbon
copy off, get the black paint and fine bmsh and color in black inside the outlined area.
Let it dry completely before doing anything else.

Before I show you how eyes are finished, let me share few photos on how Willy's eyes are
done. Procedure is the same as with Maya. Size I of 7 rounds I have already mentioned
above.

Thought photos will help some of you get the better picture and help some in this whole
process of painting.

Copynght by Van;a Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013-

2015
 'ainting Wi/lys Eyes
Pay attention on eye size, placement.....

Cogynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-

2015
On Willy's head you'll have to paint eyebrows too! Don't forget about them!

Adding black color to eyes and finishing all up.

Like previously mentioned, after green has dried, the last color we need to add is black.
Take your carbon copy eyes, pin them, outline them on painted yes, and with fine bmsh œlor
inside the outlined area.

For those of you, who haven1 found black fuzzy wire, use black color to paint antennas
now. Lucky ones that have black antennas by now, have a nice cup of tee, coffee or
refreshment drink :)

Cogynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-

2015
After black has dried, take your white paint, fine brush and look at the original copy of your
eyes. Observe where white dots or sparks are to be placed.
Dip bmsh into the paint and careNIIy apply sparks on each eye.
If you noticed, Maya has tiny little white lines added on the bottom of each eye iris.
If your brush is not fine enough, you can skip this part. The eye will look great without this line
as well.

Copyright by Vanja Grunonann, ArnigurumiBB 2013-2015 24

When eyes have dried completely, you can take black super fine pen or marker (don't forget
to check how each work on your yarn before applying them on the head),
and draw little by little outline on top of eyes on each of your doll's. Willy will need eyebrows
touch up with pen or marker too.
And voila, your Maya and Willy’s eyes are done!
It feels great seeing them almost done, isnl it!? :)

To finish the head we have to add mouth. In this pattern I wish to show you how I like to add
mouth on my dolls.

For this you will need,

— black yarn in black (use same weight as one used for making your Maya. If not having
same, go for lighter black, but in any case do not use heavier weight yarn for mouth).
— Sharp pointing needle, long enough to go from cheek to cheek.
— Clear glue for textile.
— Tooth pick.
— 3 pins

Thread the needle with black yarn, prepare our doll.

Place pins:
1. three rounds below, stitch aligned with the left eye side line
2. three rounds below, stitch aligned with the right eye side line
3. five rounds below and aligned with nose

Cogynght by Vanja Grundmann, AmigurumiBB 2013- 25

2015
Starting from either side (which will depend if right or left handed), push the needle from
one side pin to the next.

Take the needle out, but leave a tail hanging on where you started. Look at the photo.

Cogynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiB8 2013-

2015
Go below your bottom pin, and repeat needle waving one more time (from starting stitch
one side to the next stitch opposite side).
Take the needle off the yarn.

Now cut both hanging ends (yarn tails) to about 1 cm long (’7")

Copyright by Vanja Grunonann, ArnigurumiBB 2013-2015 27

Prepare clear glue for textile.

Apply drop of glue on each of the stitches where your yarn is sticking out, as well as add
some underneath the yarn that is creating your mouth. Look at the photo; the glue is still fresh
and visible and you can see it all the way under the mouth as well as on the ending stitches.

Cogynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiB8 2013- 28

2015
Now take the tooth pick and stick the ends inside the head, through the stitches where they
point out. While pushing the yearn inside the head, you will use the glue applied and this way
secure the ends to stay nice and firm.

Once both ends are secured, using same tooth pick, draw the line and underneath the mouth.
This drawing the line is using and applying glue nicely. Take off any access glue.
While your yarn is covered in glue and wet, arrange the mouth line in nice round way (it might
move while you draw with toothpick or while adding glue eadier, and now if's time to fix it to
final, nice looking smile).

Cogynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiB8 2013-

2015
When all arranged and set, take the bottom pin, gently out. As final touch carefully, with your
fingertips, press the yarn onto the head for better and firmer adding it to the head.
Let the glue dry completely

Here are few photos on how mouth are added on Willy.

Copynght by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015

 Hope you’ve enjoyed making them!

For any questions you might have, please feel free to contact me by mail on:
amigurumibb6gmail co
To follow my work and be informed on the news: www.amigurumibb.com

I by Vanja Grunonann, AmigurumiBB 2013-2015 31