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Weaving Production-141208040231232-Conversion-Gate01 PDF
Weaving Production-141208040231232-Conversion-Gate01 PDF
7.1. Count:
1. Indirect system
Total No. of hanks per one pound is the count of that yarn (Ne) i.e. if 10 hanks (10 x
840 yds. or 7680 meters) weighs one Pound or 0.454 Kg, then the Count of Yarn in indirect
system 10s or 10Ne.
This System widely used for staple fiber spun yarns like 100% Cotton, Viscose,
Polyester fibers and their blends.
Higher the yarn Count i.e Ne the yarn is finer
2. Direct System
Count = Weight in grams per 9000 meters of yarn
In this system the yarn numbering is called as Denier (D)
Higher the yarn number i.e Denier the yarn is coarser.
3. Universal System
Count = No of grams per 1000 meters or per km of yarn.
In this system count is called as Tex
Commonly used other numbering systems
I. Nf - French count: - It is the No of 1000 meters length in ½ kg of yarn
II. Nm - Metric system: - Count is the No of 1000 meters length per kg. of
yarn.
III. Worsted system: - Count is the No. of 560 yards in one lbs.
IV. Linen system: - It is the No. of leas of 300 yards per pound
V. Hemp, Jute, Flax: - Count is the No of 14,400 yards length per pound of
yarn
Conversion System
English (Ne) to Denier (D) - Denier = 5315 / Ne
English (Ne) to Tex - Tex = 590.5 / Ne
French (Nf) to English (Ne) - English (Ne) = Nf x 1.181
Faults remved
Yarn clearer efficiency = × 100
Faults present
Total breaks during winding (at faults)
Knot factor =
No. of Breaks due to objectionable faults
4.8 × y
Optimum spindles / winder N = +1 OR
S
4500 × Y
Expected efficiency E = S × N (12 + 98)
13Y
Expected production P = / Winder per 8 hrs. in kgs
(12 + 98) × C
Y = Length / Bobbin (meters.) B = breaks per bobbin
1000 × 60
R = Uninterrupted running Time for 1000 meters (sec) =
Machine speed in mtr/min
S = total of time, in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1000
meters.
B × N × T1 T2 T3
= R+ + + + T4
400 L L×C
B = End breaks / 400 ends / 1000 meters N = Number of ends.
L = Set Length in 1000 meters C = Beams per creel.
EPI
Reed count =
1 + Weft crimp %age
2. Reed Width
3. Crimp %age
1
5. Yarn diameter. =
28 × Count
6. Weave Density
7. To change the count and number of thread / inch, keeping the same denseness of
the fabric:
Cloth length in mtrs Weft wt. in kgs x Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144
c. =
with the given weft weight PPI x R. S. in inches
⇒ Count becomes 4%
⇒ FinerDyed counts become max 6% Coarser
Actual Production
2. Loom Efficiency %age = × 100
Calculated Production
EPI PPI
7. Cloth weight in GSM = + × 25.6
Warp Count Weft Count
Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in
lbs.)
1. Yarn Appearance:
The Visual Effect obtained by viewing a sample of yarn wound with a designated
traverse on a black board of designated size.
♦ Nep: a tightly tangled mass of unorganised fiber
♦ Slub: an abruptly thickened place of yarn
♦ Thick place: a yarn defect where the diameter is greater than the adjoining
segments and extending for 6 mm
♦ Thin Place: a yarn segment where the diameter is 25% lesser than the average
diameter of yarn
♦ Fuzz: Untangled fibers that protrude from the surface of the yarn
♦ Bunch: a yarn segment not over 6 mm in length that shows abrupt increase
in diameter caused by more fibers matted in this particular place
♦ Method: yarn wound on hylam black boards wound for fixed wraps per inch as
per count compared with standard reference boards.
♦ Grades: Above ‘A’ to below ‘D’ - The imperfections increase from Grade ‘A’
and the maximum in grade ‘D’. Average index of five boards of five
graders.
2. Yarn Evenness:
♦ Wrap reel
♦ Balance
♦ 120 yards of yarn / 100 meters of yarn wound in a wrap reel and weighed .
♦ From the weight, the count is calculated.
8. Twist Testing
♦ Direction Twist
♦ S –Twist: When Held in vertical position, the spiral confirm in slope to the central
position of the letter ‘S’
♦ Z –Twist: When Held in vertical position, the spiral confirm in slope to the central
position of the letter ‘Z’
♦ No of Turns (Twists) per Unit length
♦ Single Twist
♦ Double Twist
♦ Twist Multiplier
♦ Apparatus: Twist Tester
♦ Direct Method
♦ Indirect Method
On analysing a sample of cloth made from cotton; rayon, silk or flax with view of its
reproduction produced thus: -
1. Record whether a fabric is in the grey or the finished state.
2. Determine which threads constitute warp and which weft.
3. If in grey, test for the presence of size material by staining with iodine, when the
starch in the size warp turns deep blue in colour, the weft being unaffected.
4. Examine for direction of spinning twist in the yarns, and also if either set of threads is
two-fold yarn. If crepe yarns have been used it may be necessary to test for amount
of twist present.
5. Count the ends and picks per inch in the fabric. If more than 2 warps or wefts are
used, find the number per inch of each yarn type used.
6. Test the yarns for Regain i.e. how much longer they are out of the cloth than the
length of the sample from which they were abstracted. By this means we can
estimate the length of warp required to give the length to cloth and from the weft
regain we can estimate the length in Reed or length of each pick of weft. In weaving
ordinary classes 10% of cotton goods warp regain between 4% and according to the
structure, while the weft regain is usually about 5%. These figures apply to grey
cloths only. In finished goods, the regain will differ according to the nature of the
finished applied. Very often the length of the cloth is increased and its width reduced
on finishing, hence the warp regain may be as low as 1% to 4% while the weft regain
may be 8% to 10 %. “Rigmel” finished and “Sanforising” are finishing processes in
which the fabric is pre-shrunk both in warp and weft directions, the advantage being
that the fabric, when made into a garment, will retain its shape: it will not shrink in the
laundering. When analysing these materials regains of 8% to 10% will probably be
found in both warp and weft.
7. Test the yarns for counts of warp and weft (The count of the yarn is the number of
length units required to weight on gain). In a grey sample the warp will probably be
sized yarn and the count recorded will be the sized count. This should be corrected
by making a second test after thoroughly washing the fabric to remove all size and
filling materials. If the sample is a bleached, dye, or printed cloth, the counts of warp
and weft will be affected counts test then made, allowing about 5% in bleached count
= 20s grey count: 38s bleached = 36s grey count.
8. Analyse the sample for weave details i.e. whether plain, twill, satin, or some other
weave, and proceed to develop the draft and peg plan when necessary.
9. When analysing the sample containing rayon yarns, it is important to test for type of
rayon i.e. Viscose, Cuprammonium or Cellulose Acetate, i.e. number of filaments
comprising the rayon thread must be countered and the yarn exactly matched to
obtain true reproduction of the sample. If the fabric is a coloured woven material,
such as a poplin shirting or a zephyr check, the warp and weft patterns must be
abstracted.
For the ordinary kinds of cotton fabrics the contraction during weaving makes the
cloth stand about 4 ends per inch closer in the cloth than in the reed and there is a gain of
about 2 picks per inch from the loom to the warehouse table. Thus if a cloth is required to
the following dimensions: 36 inch wide, 120 yards long, 72 ends / 66 picks per inch, 34s
warp, 30s weft, plain weave – the making particulars would be : warp length 126 yards : ends
per inch in reed, 68 : pick wheel on loom, 64 : pure warp ends – 36 x 72 = 2592 plus
selvedge allowance say 30 extra ends = 2622 ends width in reed 38.2 in.
When estimating the grey or loom particulars to reproduce a given finished sample of
cloth, experience in the handling of that type of cloth, both in the grey and finished states, is
necessary. No general rule can be laid down to cover all classes of goods, careful
measurement of regains will, in most cases, be of great assistance in this work.