FIXED FOR A QUID!

VAG TDI
low fuel
PHEV vs EREV
pressure Plug-in Hybrids and
analysis Range Extenders –
what’s the difference?

BMW X3/X5
Transfer box
SAVING YOU MONEY SINCE 1958
motor REPAIR
CAR STORAGE
Know-how & servicing 9
PAGE
TOP TIPS to keeping SPECIAL

Filtration
your motor off-road

Gearbox
& diff oil
CHECKS
X An in-depth
analysis of
OIL, AIR, FUEL
SYSTEMS
and CABIN filters
X Steps to servicing
components
X The do’s & don’ts
of buying spares
Audi 1.8T X Warranty issues –
OE vs OE-quality
cambelt swap aftermarket

WIN
Parts
Washers BUYING USED PARTS BIN IN THE WORKSHOP
3 prizes
worth over
£430 VW up! Mazda Peugeot
and SEAT Mii,
Skoda Citigo – MX-5 308 1.4
MAY 2020 £4.50 what do you get? Mk3 NC models DIY service tasks
Editorial
MOT exemption
X Since my last Editorial – which I wrote
only 25 days ago – for most of us, our
daily lives have somewhat changed.
The government has set-out guidelines
due to the raging COVID-19 virus, which
advise us to stay at home – only to
venture outside for food, health reasons
or work (if you can’t work from home).
Many of us have decided to stock-up
the freezer and other essentials and sit
it out at home for a set period, worried
that if we did venture out, the risk of
catching coronavirus is high.
Of course, depending on how many
vehicles you have in your household,
one or two might now not be exercised
for weeks – even months. See our
feature on pages 42-43 regarding self-
isolating your motor for the short-term.
For many motorists the worry
of keeping any vehicle roadworthy
depended on if your current MOT was
about to expire. News, though, finally
came through that cars, light vans
and motorcycles would be granted a
six-month exemption from MOT testing
(in England, Scotland, Wales) enabling
vehicles to still be used legally. This
came into force from March 30, so if
you have a vehicle (like I do) that has its
MOT running out on April 29, it will, in
theory, now run out on October 29.
If you check the MOT status of your
vehicle online, you will probably find
that it is still listed as showing the usual
MOT expiry date – the reason for this,
I believe, is that they aren’t updating
vehicles that run-out in the weeks or
months ahead, only those that have
I had a bit of trouble getting my MINI
R50 in for testing due to the heavy
demand for tests during the middle of
March. It did pass with no advisories,
you will be pleased to hear…
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
Martyn Knowles, Editor
Email: martyn.knowles@bauermedia.co.uk
Follow us on Facebook @ Car Mechanics
days left on the current test. They are
probably doing this so that they can
amend the six-month exemption at any
time they wish (ie. less than six months).
You must, of course, make sure
your vehicle is roadworthy during the
exemption – and I’m sure those who
read this magazine would be top-notch
at that job. Saying that, some MOT
testing stations are still open. My local
tester is in testing five days a week. In
fact, before the news came through of
the six-month exemption, he was busy
doing 14 MOT tests in one day! The
general public were – and I don’t blame
them – anxious to get their cars tested,
even if it was earlier than the official
date. Some of my local garages are still
trading, one offering collection from the
owner’s residence, servicing, repairs,
MOTs and return – complete with a
sanitised steering wheel and fascia.
So, don’t panic if your vehicle’s MOT
is due soon and isn’t showing online or
any app you use as not having the six-
month exemption – I’m sure it will show
as the MOT approaches. I will find out at
the end of this month and report back.
If you do have to venture out on the
road, fuel is cheaper than it was in
February. Here my local Esso is selling
unleaded at 111.9p and diesel at 115.9.
Have you seen it cheaper?
Additionally, I did SORN eight of my
vehicles before the next monthly direct-
debits were due on April 1st! Even I was
shocked at that amount. I’m now saving
vast amounts of money. It’s not a good
time to sell cars either. Is it?
Buying
Car Mechanics
X In light of the current situation
across the whole world, I’m asking
if you can please support us here
at CM. Due to the coronavirus
lockdown, we are currently not
able to use the normal outlets
to sell our magazine – the
High Street being mostly shut
and supermarkets naturally
concentrating on food stock.
In the event of it being difficult
to find this magazine in the
imminent future, we will do our
best to ensure we will still be
available on digital platforms.
If you can’t find us, or if you’re
stuck at home, please consider
downloading our app from the iOS
or Android app stores. We have
some superb one-off subscription
offers in place with discounts of
up to 50%, or you can buy single
issues if you wish.
Or if you’re a Kindle Fire user,
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If you are a print subscriber and
we cannot deliver issues to you
owing to the COVID-19 situation,
please visit www.greatmagazines.
co.uk/covid-19 where clear
updates will be given.
If you wish to order print or
digital single issue copies that
you may have missed please visit
www.greatmagazines.co.uk to
order and pay online.
If you wish to talk to me about
the current situation, write to me
at the above email. Thanks…
Valve figures
X In the March 2020 issue, we
mentioned in our Project Honda
Civic feature (page 34), that the
valve clearances on the 1.8 i-VTEC
engine should be adjusted to:
Inlet clearances 0.20mm
Exhaust clearances 0.25mm
both plus/minus 0.2mm.
Thanks to Mr Hogan in Ireland,
who pointed out our error – we
should have stated the figure
plus/minus 0.02mm.
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 3
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FEATURES 82 PAGE
96
64 DIY Servicing:
6 An insight into Filtration Peugeot 308 1.4
We liaise with the leading brands
to discover how you should buy 82 Electronic Diagnostics:
and fit them correctly. Renault Clio 1.5dCi
A Renault Clio 1.5 dCi is the subject of our
36 VAG TDI low fuel Electronic Diagnostics feature this month.
pressure fault REGULARS
We investigate low fuel pressure BUYING 18 CM Insider
on the high-pressure system of
a modern Audi TDI system. 50 Used Car Focus: News and new products.
VW up!, SEAT Mii
40 BMW X3/X5 Transfer and Skoda Citigo 48 Dealer’s Diary
Box Motor repair All based on the same bodyshell
Non-operating 4WD might be and engine – which model is
60 Tea Break
down to an £8 repair job. Petrol Emission Systems.
best to go for?
44 PHEV vs EREV 70 Help!
Are Plug-in Hybrids better than
54 Survival Guide: Your motoring problems sorted.
Range Extenders? What’s the Mazda MX-5 Mk3
difference between these two 80 Diagnostics Doctor
types of propulsion? WORKSHOP 88 Our Cars
Ian Cushway get his VW T5 to
PROJECTS 22 Tales from the Workshop stop and Rob Hawkins sorts the
Real-life workshop problems, final jobs on our project Alfa GT.
30 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T and how they were fixed.
Part two: First job on our 98 In My Humble Opinion
auction-purchased A4 is to fit 56 Back To Basics: Mike mourns the disappearance
a new cambelt and water pump. Transmission oils of the Motorway Traffic bobby.

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INS TA N T E X P E R T
Filtration
Filters are available from a
wide variety of sources but
buy carefully and ensure
they are installed properly.
Your car’s state of mechanical health – and even the well-being of your
passengers – relies on decent filtration. Rob Marshall liaises with the
leading brands to discover how you should buy and fit them correctly.
W
hen working on a car at
home, you place a degree of
trust in the components that
you install. DIYers tend not
to be experts in how these parts are made
and evaluating filters’ quality especially
is far from easy, when there tends to
be no obvious visual clue to determine
whether they will protect, or harm. Many
people will buy solely on price but this
can prejudice quality. Yet, even the best
quality filter cannot perform, should it
be installed incorrectly.
Why are filters
important?
Damaging contaminations that are
produced either by the combustion
process, or introduced from the
atmosphere, can not only shorten
component lifespan but can also make
them less reliable. Motorcar filtration
has evolved over many decades to offer
affordable methods of removing particles
from, most commonly, the engine oil,
fuel and the incoming air. As engines
and their associated management
technologies have become more
sophisticated, they have also become
6 Car Mechanics p May 2020
more vulnerable to contamination. Filter
technology continues evolving to meet
these challenges.
Filters have also grown in numbers as
well as complexity. Aside from the oil,
air and fuel filters, virtually all modern
cars possess cabin filters. Dependent on
equipment levels, filters may be fitted
outside and deep within the gearbox,
rear axle and even suspension systems.
Therefore, being aware of your car’s
specification and budgeting time and
money to replace any renewable filters
are wise moves, especially if the vehicle
is a recent used purchase.
The filter brands
have their say
Jonathan Allen, Regional Marketing
Manager of Federal-Mogul
Motorparts EMEA, owner of the
Champion brand, advises CM readers:
“Poor running, reduced performance
or even an allergic reaction; plus not
swapping your car’s filters with OE-
quality replacements on time can have a
devastating effect on the health of your
vehicle, bank balance and you. Filters
undergo the same rigorous testing as any
other component and failing to replace
an ailing filter can lead to premature
wear of other, more-expensive-to
-replace parts such as piston rings.
At the very least, a badly clogged cabin
filter can undermine all the extensive
research and development work that is
carried out by vehicle manufacturers
attempting to improve NVH (noise,
vibration, harshness) levels and ambient
cabin quality.”
First Line, via its Borg and Beck brand
of filters, warns that, “There are varying
levels of quality in the aftermarket,
driven by the constant drive-down of
price. Therefore it is advisable to stick
with reputable, established brands that
manage and control the specification
of the products, as we do at First Line
Ltd, to protect the buyers and installers
of our products from experiencing any
types of problem.”
UFI Filters confirms that buying
and fitting a cheap aftermarket filter
can seem like a great idea at the
time and may save you a few pounds
initially – but it is a false economy. The
company reasons that a poor-quality
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 AN INSIGHT INTO FILTRATION

FROM WHERE SHOULD YOU BUY FILTERS?

X As it is almost impossible for a DIYer to assess filter
quality, a degree of common sense is needed. With
counterfeit parts being more prevalent with online
marketplaces, you are placing yourself at a greater risk
by going on such websites and buying the cheapest filter
listed. Unbranded filters from unknown origins may,
therefore, not be the right choice, but you should also be
wary of potential fakes.
Buy recognised quality branded filters from reputable
sources, such as motor factors and known, quality mail-
order providers. We are not saying that you should stay
away from online marketplaces completely, because
some reputable companies trade there – but do check
the handle. The online shop of ‘BodgerRobsBangers', as a
made-up example, is likely not be as trustworthy as that
of ‘gsfcarparts’...

New filtration media are being developed to tackle the greater

challenges posed by deposits. Pictured is a typical filter made from Yet, this synthetic filtration medium has not become clogged with
cellulose fibres, which has become clogged with soot particles... soot. Test information and images supplied by UFI Filters.

oil filter can fail to trap damaging
particles, causing them to remain
in the engine and increase internal
wear. Low-quality fuel, or air filters,
can introduce contaminations into
sensitive components, if not captured
beforehand. Therefore, cheaper poor-
quality filters can compromise optimum
engine performance, reliability, fuel
consumption, exhaust emissions and
increase repair costs that might have
been avoided, had decent filtration been
used in the first place.
MAHLE Aftermarket, a company that
supplies spare parts using its expertise
as a producer of original equipment
(OE) components to the motor
manufacturers, reports that filters can
look almost identical on the outside but
the often-unseen intricate differences
inside define the quality standard. Using
oil filters as an example, the filtration
media must neither degrade on contact
with acids, soot and bio-fuels, nor
should it affect oil pressure negatively
throughout its operating life.
In its research on how cheap filter
makers cut manufacturing costs at
the expense of performance, MAHLE
Aftermarket states that the quantity of
filtration media tends to be reduced. In
the case of spin-on oil filters, this can
be achieved by reducing the height of
the outer casing, or by increasing the
diameter of the centre support tube.
It highlights that its branded filters
use taller cartridges and longer paper
length to guarantee performance and
reliability. However, the grade and
quality of the filtration medium must
also be studied, because they too define
both the filter’s efficiency and service
life. Build quality is also relevant
because, should the media pleats bond
together as the filter ages, the workable
surface area reduces.
The company also states that a
hardening process is needed to prevent
the filter from collapsing under pressure.
Yet, other issues must be considered,
including replacement intervals, air/oil/
fuel flow-rates and the size of particles
(measured in microns) that must be
captured. These parameters tend to be
specified by the car manufacturer (OE),
which is why choosing filter brands that
claim (and are trusted) that they meet
original equipment (OE) quality must be
your priority.
UFI Filters also emphasises its strength
on research and development as an OE
supplier. Like MAHLE Aftermarket, it
argues that correct cartridge dimensions
permit optimum filtering efficiency and
highlights advances in materials used as
filter media. For example, cellulosic media
(paper) has been the most popular to date
but, to provide optimum protection to the
latest turbocharged engines, in particular,
UFI highlights that it uses different
constituents, such as glassfibre, or those
based from polymers. It also highlights OE
targets and environmental impacts, with
which it complies.
Whom should you trust?
Buying all of your filters from a
franchised dealership (presuming your
car brand is still current) is a way of
guaranteeing OE quality, but it may be
an unnecessary expense. Even so, do
not discount the dealer network
completely, because their filters may be
surprisingly affordable, especially if you
bulk-buy. Consider that manufacturer
branding on the filters (or their
boxes) does not mean that car-makers
manufacture them; they rely on a series

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 7

AN INSIGHT INTO FILTRATION ROB’S
TOP TIP
Avoid unbranded
white-box filters from
unknown sources.

its OE-quality claims. Not only does it

Some quality filtration brands provide fitting instructions,
which can be especially useful for cabin filters.
of OE suppliers to develop and produce
the filters to their specifications, as
detailed earlier. Buying filters direct
from these OE suppliers may be a
more cost-effective way to ensure that
OE-quality is met for your car, but do
not presume that companies without
contracts with the car manufacturers
should be avoided.
Comline, as an example, may not be an
OE-supplier but it takes the quality remit
extremely seriously. After all, any company
can say that its filters meet OE standards
– who is going to check? The Luton-based
company insists that its filters range,
which covers 95% of the European,
Japanese and Korean aftermarket
vehicle parc, ensures that it can back-up
work with only OE filtration suppliers
but also it carries-out regular audits of
those partners. Quality control checks in
Comline’s independent laboratories also
verify filtration media quality and depth,
dimensional accuracy and even anti-
corrosion finishes. Additionally, Comline
also told CM that it has partnered with
the International Filter Testing Service
(IFTS), membership of which tends to
be reserved typically for OE suppliers.
Effectively, this independent organisation
provides its members with in-depth,
impartial analysis and its test laboratory
complies with ISO 17025. This ISO
standard, incidentally, is the calibration
standard to which all laboratories must
adhere to be recognised as ‘technically
competent’ in the production of ‘precise
and accurate test and calibration’ data.
While Comline admits that, in order
to protect the intellectual property of the
organisation and its members, the IFTS
findings are not publicised, it enables
Comline to benchmark itself against its
competitors in an impartial manner.

OIL FILTERS
X Oil filters are probably the most ubiquitous filtration medium.
As engine lubricant passes from the pump to the filter, before
reaching the main moving parts, any installation issues can
result in oil starvation, with potentially catastrophic results.
As they need to be renewed every time the engine lubricant is
drained, oil filters tend to be positioned to facilitate easy access.
Do not be fooled, however, because an easy mistake at best can
cause a severe leak. At worst, you could ruin the engine.
W A removal tool, however,
A2 is useful for unscrewing
an old filter. Even if installed
with hand pressure and not
overtightened, they can become
stubborn to move. Research
which design of removal tool is
best suited to your car and be
wary of damaging any nearby
delicate components, such as
radiator fins, or wiring.

X If you do not lubricate

Spin-on oil filters have their filtration
A1 medium sealed within a painted thin
steel case, advanced corrosion of which
causes leaks. Apart from the filter not being
replaced on time, using a removal tool to
tighten it (instead of hand pressure) can
scrape off the protective paint, exposing the
bare steel to atmospheric moisture, thus
encouraging rust. Naturally, overtightening
a spin-on oil filter makes it harder to
unscrew at the next service.
A3 a spin-on filter’s rubber
contact seal before fitting, you risk
it deforming and causing leaks.
Yet, a faulty oil pressure release
valve can reveal itself as an oil
filter seal that looks as if it has
been forced away from the filter’s
metal body. Address the underlying
issue. Should you discover this,
start by measuring the oil pressure
with a manometer.

8 Car Mechanics p May 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 AN INSIGHT INTO FILTRATION

Do not use excessive force. Cross-

A4 threading, ie installing the filter at
an incorrect angle, not only affects the
seal’s ability to seat correctly but also risks
introducing metal swarf into the engine. The
damaged threads also heighten the risk of
the canister working loose.
Many modern cars have reverted to the cartridge-style oil filter, where the anti-drain,
A5 pressure bypass and even cooling properties are carried out by a modular assembly
that is bolted to the engine and is designed to last the life of the car. All you do is renew the
filtration medium and any rubber seals. Image courtesy of UFI Filters

Pictured is the oil filter module,

A7 attached to the engine, with its cap
and filter removed. The particles inside
indicate that either a poor-quality filter
was installed at the last service, or it was
Therefore, you are supplied with a filter cartridge and seals to assemble into the overdue for replacement. Obviously, you
A6 module after you have removed the old parts. It is not a bad idea to clean-out the cap. should not introduce a solvent to clean any
Brake cleaner is an ideal solvent to use but allow it to evaporate fully, before reassembly. particles – use a non-fluffy rag instead.

Install any new rubber seals into their respective locating Due to being manufactured from plastic, heed the torque
A8 grooves, ensuring that they are not twisted (arrowed). Like A9 specification that tends to be printed on top of the cap.
spin-on filters, lubricate the rubber with a thin smear of engine oil, Otherwise, you risk cracking the moulding and, if the damage is not
before reuniting the cap’s threads with those of the module. noticed, the result could be a severe oil leak.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 9

AN INSIGHT INTO FILTRATION ROB’S
TOP TIP

FUEL FILTERS
Insist on OE
quality parts.

X Many advances in engine efficiency and emissions are due

to modern fuel systems, which contain some of the cars' most
precision-made parts that are manufactured to a tolerance of fewer
than two microns and must tolerate extremely high pressures. This
makes clean fuel even more crucial for optimum performance and
reliability, considering the high replacement part costs of a typical
fuel injection system. In the case of modern direct-injection
(diesel engines especially), the fuel plays a vital lubrication role for
not just the high-pressure pump but also the injectors.
Fuel filters capture impurities in the fuel. Sand and even rust can
be present in underground fuel storage tanks and, after being introduced to the vehicle’s fuel tank, their abrasive action risks
causing serious damage to a modern fuel system. While some petrol engines may not possess a replaceable fuel filter, relying
instead on a simple strainer in the fuel pump pick-up that is immersed within the tank, diesel engines tend to have higher
filtration requirements. They are also more vulnerable to water contamination, which can result from condensation in the
tank. This moisture is drawn into the engine bay, because of diesel’s tendency to hold water molecules in suspension, which
must be separated before entering the high-pressure fuel pump. A further problem, which has been exacerbated by
the increase in biofuel content (B7 labelled pump diesel contains up to 7% bio), is that the fuel acts as a food for the fungi,
which grow under conditions where both diesel and water are present. The fungi’s waste products form a slime, which can not
only block fuel filters but also clog fuel lines.

Older vehicles had petrol filters

B1 integral with an engine-mounted
mechanical fuel pump that can be removed,
washed-out and refitted. Newer models with
electric pumps have the strainer immersed
in the fuel tanks, which tend to be trickier to
access – they do not require routine cleaning,
unless you suspect a blockage.
Be wary of installing in-line fuel filters
B2 on a modern petrol fuel injection
system, because these types of filters tend
to be suitable for low-pressure carburettor
systems only. Consult step B3 and verify
that the filter is installed in the correct
direction of fuel flow.
Some petrol vehicles possess a fuel
B3 filter canister that is more apposite
for the higher pressures involved. These
tend to be mounted beneath the car, often
towards the rear. Note that the arrow
indicates the direction of fuel flow to ensure
that the filter is installed correctly.

Especially when working on an older

B4 car, it is possible that fuel filter
replacement has been neglected. Pay special
attention to the condition of the securing
unions, some of which may be so badly
corroded that they will not be leak-free when
refitted. Aluminium filter bodies can also
react with steel retaining straps. Therefore, While some older diesels possess spin-on fuel filters, canister types are more
should you find that a protective rubber/ B5 common on modern engines. Later models also feature plastic top caps. Like those Continued
plastic insert is either damaged, or missing, on page
fitted to oil filter modules, they also can be damaged by overtightening (as pictured), so
source (or make) a replacement. respect the torque values provided. 12

10 Car Mechanics p May 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

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TORX PLUS® are registered trademarks of Acument Intellectual Properties, LLC.
AN INSIGHT INTO FILTRATION ROB’S TOP TIP
Heed service intervals
and keep receipts if the
car is still under the
HOW BAD CAN NON-OE FILTERS BE? manufacturer’s warranty.

X When Hella Hengst’s engineers dismantled a copy
oil filter and compared it with its own, the results were
surprising. Instead of a cotton medium surrounding the
paper filtration material, it discovered cleaning cloths!
Deeper analysis included the paper medium not being
attached to its end seals, which deformed at an oil
temperature of 60°C.
The paper medium also deformed at less than 30%
of the OE pressure specifications and the material itself
was both excessively brittle and holed in places. While the
copy filter boasted an anti-drain valve, it was held open
permanently, meaning the oil drained out after the engine
had been switched-off and would have been starved of
lubrication on start-up, until the filter had refilled again.
UFI told us that it has found bypass valves on low-quality
filters opening at incorrect pressures, rather than the OE
specification, increasing the risk of unfiltered oil passing
through the engine. By comparing its own filters against
low-budget alternatives, MAHLE Aftermarket discovered
poor machining of the metal parts, misshapen anti-
drainback valves, plus insufficient adhesive used to hold
together the various components inside the filter body.

FUEL FILTERS CONTINUED

W Especially when working
B6 outside, you must be wary of
airborne particles contaminating the
diesel system. For this reason, many
quality fuel filter suppliers include bungs,
which can be inserted into the fuel lines
after you have disconnected them from
the filter housing. Alternatively, you can
use small plastic bags.
X Quality diesel filters should
B7 employ a hydrophobic coating that
allows the fuel to pass through, while the
water is separated, allowing it to form
droplets that collect ultimately in the
bottom of the housing. After removing
the top cap and filter, drain out the filter
housing contents, which should flush out
any moisture.

W After removing the filter

B8 element from the cap, and before
fitting a new one, remove and replace the
top seal. Like those fitted to oil filters,
locate the untwisted seal into its groove
– which must be lubricated, not with
engine oil, but clean diesel fuel.

X When refitting, avoid cross-

B9 threading and respect the stated
torque values. Note that, in this image,
appropriate fuel line plugs are used,
instead of the plastic bags that are
pictured in step B6. When working on any
aspect of the fuel system, avoid diesel
spills, which can contaminate nearby
components, such as the clutch.

AIR FILTERS
X While air filters tend to be the most straightforward
filters to renew, do not underestimate their
importance. They trap airborne particles that, should
they enter the engine, will damage the cylinders,
piston rings and valve-gear. These contaminations
can also build in the intake tracts, as well as
contaminating delicate sensors, such as the mass
airflow meter. Neglected air filters result in restricted
airflow, with typical results that include reduced power,
high exhaust emissions, excessive fuel consumption
and even an illuminated engine management lamp and
premature diesel particulate filter blockage.

12 Car Mechanics p May 2020

 AN INSIGHT INTO FILTRATION

Even if filter renewal is not scheduled,
C1 consider removing and inspecting it
at service time for either dirty, or distorted,
pleats. Remove any solid particles on the
filter before refitting it. Vacuum out any other
foreign bodies (such as leaves) that may have
accumulated in the plastic airbox base.
Subject to the application, ensure
C2 that a tight seal exists between the
air filter and its housing. Check that, where
fitted, all fixing clips and screws are present
and in good order. Inspect the flexible hoses
for cracks, or splits, which aren't always that
obvious. Verify that all hoses clips, including
those for the intercooler, are also tight.
A quality filter should not only fit
C3 correctly but also not distort. This filter
features a fleece pre-filter, which removes large
particulates such as road dust. This leaves
the secondary filter to deal with even smaller
contaminates, such as soot. It also improves
filter performance by up to 40%. Some fuel
filters also employ pre-filter fleece technology.

An alternative to the panel filter is the metal-reinforced design, Apart from the filtration media, the remaining parts of an air
C4 which tends to have a moulded steel frame as opposed to one C5 filter are not recyclable. Some of the latest vehicles employ
made from plastic. This design tends to be more prevalent among eco air filters, made from recycled and biodegradable materials.
Japanese and Korean brands. Image courtesy of Comline Image courtesy of Comline

CABIN/POLLEN FILTERS
X Often neglected, cabin filters enhance passenger comfort,
by capturing minute particles such as pollen, bacteria and
exhaust particulates before they enter the heating and
ventilation system. To maintain obvious health and interior
cleanliness benefits, they should be replaced annually, at
least. A clogged filter not only affects cabin ventilation but
the blower motor may also have to work harder, causing “It continues to surprise me how many motorists don’t
overheating and shortening the working life of not only the see the importance of changing the cabin filter because it’s
blower motor but also the resistor pack that regulates the not mechanically essential for the vehicle. Ultimately, a cabin
motor speeds. Comline’s group technical communications filter protects what’s most important in a vehicle – the driver
manager, Leigh Davies, advises CM readers that: and vehicle occupants.”

Due to their proximity to the cabin air Carbon-activated alternative cabin

D1 intake, cabin filters tend to be situated
in not very accessible positions, such as
behind the fascia panel, or adjacent to the
bulkhead. Ensure that the filter is not damaged
as it is renewed and ensure that the airflow
direction matches that of the printed arrow.
Standard-specification cabin filters
D2 tend to be made from multi-layered
materials that capture dust, pollen, spores,
soot and micro-fragments. The media on these
cabin filters tend to be a bright white hue.
D3 filters offer more advanced filtration
that filter-out ultra-fine gas particles such
as benzene and ozone. They also can absorb
unpleasant odours and are especially
beneficial if you do a lot of your driving in
urban environments.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 13

AN INSIGHT INTO FILTRATION

FILTER ‘ODD BODS’

X Dependent on the specification of your car, there may be other filters of
which you should be aware. Some of them require occasional replacement;
others require cleaning. Some of them need to be renewed when a component
is overhauled; others may not even be mentioned in technical literature. The
following overview of filters tends to focus on those that are forgotten.
W Most cars have a
E1 small strainer filter in
the brake fluid reservoir, which
can be lifted out and cleaned –
but ensure that it is thoroughly
dry before refitting.

X Hydraulic, or
E2 electro-hydraulic power
steering systems may have a
filter installed to capture fine
particles. This magnetic filter is
situated within the reservoir.

DIESEL
PARTICULATE
FILTERS (DPF)

Turbocharger oil supply lines can

E3 Apart from the oil pump strainer, some
engines may have small filters fitted,
such as that pictured, which is of a BMW
variable valve timing (VANOS) solenoid.
E4 also have tiny filters installed. Many
replacement turbocharger companies will
reject a warranty claim if the filter has not
been renewed.

W Epicyclical automatic
E5 gearboxes can have
replaceable oil filters, located
either on their outer casings, or
accessible after the transmission
sump has been removed.

X DPFs are a different kind of

filter. Fitted towards the front of
the exhaust system, they trap soot
from the exhaust gases and self-
empty by burning off the particles
in a process called ‘regeneration’.
While maintenance-free, they need
emptying of ash after very high
mileages have elapsed. This means
that the filter requires dismounting
and cleaning by a specialist.
To remain reliable, they depend
greatly on the other parts of
X Smaller
the engine and fuel systems E6 strainer-type filters
being healthy. Therefore, if you
(arrowed) tend to be fitted
encounter problems with a DPF, to automatic transmission
consider that the issues are valve bodies as a last line
a symptom of an underlying of defence but they are not Continued
easily accessed and should on page
problem elsewhere.
last the life of the gearbox. 16

14 Car Mechanics p May 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

WIN A WORKSHOP

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AN INSIGHT INTO FILTRATION ROB’S TOP TIP
Replace filters more
often if you drive
regularly in dusty, or
urban conditions.

Most ‘wet’ twin-clutch automated

E7 manual gearboxes (including VW Some mechatronic control units on twin-clutch automated manual gearboxes possess
Group’s DSG6 and certain DSG7 applications)
E8 fine strainer filters to protect the valve bodies. As per step E6, accessing them requires
require periodic oil and filter changes. significant dismantling and should be unnecessary.

Certain rear differential couplings Some older hydraulic suspension

E9 have their clutches controlled E10 applications possess several filters. Strainer filters can be integral with
hydraulically. Certain systems, such as some This Citroën has three filters that need E11 windscreen washer pumps. Sludge
Haldex systems, require filter replacement periodic cleaning, all of which are clipped from bacteria, or deteriorated screen-wash
(arrowed) and oil changes. into the LHM fluid reservoir top. solution, can cause blockages.

WARRANTY ISSUES
X With manufacturer guarantees becoming longer,
tempting extended mechanical warranties being
available and finance exploding in popularity, you need
to be careful not to contravene any of the relevant small
print. While block-exemption is on your side, as far as
car manufacturer warranties are concerned, it protects
neither against extended warranties nor PCP terms, which
may dictate that only franchised dealer servicing is acceptable. Therefore, fitting OE-quality aftermarket filters from
home is likely not to be permitted by the terms.
Where a manufacturer guarantee is still in place, you are not obliged to fit manufacturer-branded parts from a main
dealership. However, it is unreasonable to expect a car manufacturer/importer to insure against mechanical damage,
caused by a ‘white box’ filter of dubious origins.
Renowned for its seven-years-long warranty, we contacted Kia Motors UK for clarification about whether the use
of aftermarket filters would void its warranty. We were told that any parts used (including filters) must have their part
numbers detailed on the invoice and should be either genuine Kia-branded, or of an ‘equivalent quality’. We asked Kia
Motors UK to explain how it judged filters to be ‘equivalent quality’ and a spokesperson told us: “Generally, we would be
happy if the filter in question were produced by a reputable manufacturer that met the appropriate ISO standards.”
Therefore, choosing an established brand that claims OE quality, bought from a reputable supplier, should not present
any issues with carmaker/main dealer warranties.

THANKS GO TO:
X Comline X Federal-Mogul Motorparts EMEA X First Line Ltd X HELLA Hengst
X MAHLE Aftermarket X Mann+Hummel X Terraclean X UFI Filters

16 Car Mechanics p May 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

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 CM Insider
Ben Hackney-Williams brings you another month
of news and reviews from the automotive industry

Pandemic support network paramount to

getting through COVID-19 as an industry www.caarparts.co.uk
X Workshops, garages and service centres
should stay open during the coronavirus £59.99
pandemic to support key workers and keep autoglym.com
them safe on the roads.
With many workshops closing down or
considering closure, parts supplier, First Line
Ltd, has highlighted the need for mechanics
and technicians in this time of crisis so
that they can repair vehicles for NHS staff,
supermarket and grocery shop personnel,
delivery drivers and anyone whose job doesn’t
allow them to work from home.
Even though the government has announced
a six-month extension to MOTs due after March
30, vehicles for these important community
members will still need repair and service.
Although business will be reduced, plans need
to be put in place to ensure that these vehicles
are kept in roadworthy condition. “Do they have their customer’s email
Global marketing director for First Line, Jon addresses and phone numbers, with
Roughley, has explained how communication permission to keep them informed? Could they
with customers is going to be even more vital operate with a reduction of hours, or carry
than ever in ensuring business continues and
a flexible approach gets workshops through
out some mobile repairs at the customers’
premises? In addition, can their customers
Protect your
these tough times.
“It’s times like this where having the
contact them in an emergency if they need out
of hours advice or repairs?
pride and joy
ability to communicate with their customers “By changing the flow of the typical day and X Increase the longevity and
through effective and efficient means enables how they interact with their customers will visual performance of your
workshops to adapt and evolve in these ever- enable many businesses to come out of this paintwork with the most
changing circumstances,” explains Jon. crisis in a much more positive position.” durable protection product
kit that Autoglym has ever
released. Ultra High Definition

Double the deals Ceramic Coating is refined

to another level and depth of
and discounts gloss. In addition, the Ultra
High Definition Shampoo and
with Sealey Wax work together for a finish
that lasts up to 12 months at
promo launches a time.
Each kit contains 100ml of
X Sealey has launched two UHD Preparation and UHD
promotions with deals and giveaways Ceramic Coating, which is
throughout, as well as new products enough to cover most vehicles.
launched for a range of applications. You’ll also find included an
With over 250 deals and the applicator for easy coverage,
launch of 27 new products, the along with preparation and
2020 Bodyshop promotion features finishing cloths to ensure
discounts of up to 58% off list price that your perfect paintwork is
and the chance to stock up until treated properly throughout
June 30. Whether you’re after dust-free sanding kits, alloy painting and repair stands, or mini air the process. All you need to
tools designed for working in confined areas, you’ll find it all here. do is make sure that, once
Sealey’s Garage & Workshop promotion features over 600 products, with its biggest ever cured in the dry for around
giveaway and over 140 offers that come with an exciting free gift. Featured within the 32 pages of four hours, you leave your
deals is a new range of Viking jacks, a creeper seat toolkit, and plenty more deals with discounts car unwashed for 24 hours
from Sealey’s expansive range. before taking to the roads and
sealey.co.uk showing off its new shine.

Click & Collect vehicle spares, workshop tools and leisure

equipment at over 400 independent member stores. www.caarparts.co.uk

18 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

Have a new product to market? Send details to carmechanics@bauermedia.co.uk CM Insider

Supplier calls NEWS IN BRIEF

Environmental

for attention on improvements

for new-look
lubes

clutch concern X TOTAL and

ELF lubricants
have redesigned
X Technicians have
their entire
been told not to range as part
install a non-LuK of the group’s
clutch, combined with a genuine LuK concentric slave cylinder (CSC) ambition to
due to safety concerns following a newly-identified case. The advice improve
comes following a discovery that a large number of Alfa Romeo, Fiat and environmental effects
Vauxhall/Opel models are affected. from production.
Global automotive parts supplier, Schaeffler, has warned mechanics Aside from aesthetic and
and motorists that mismatched clutch components can lead to excessive ergonomic improvements,
load, causing leakage from the concentric slave cylinder in some models. the reduction in weight of
To combat the cause for concern and address many other areas of packaging prevents the
service need, Schaeffler has announced that its online workshop portal, emission of 9500 tons of
REPXPERT, will continue to feature service information and technical CO2 every year through
bulletins on a regular basis, free-of-charge. raw material savings.
For more information visit repxpert.co.uk
Most popular 80s
TV cars revealed
NEW from MACHINE MART X The General Lee Charger
has been heralded as TV's
most popular car to drive,
Tyre changer closely followed by Knight
Rider's K.I.T.T. Pontiac
to take on the Firebird and The A-Team's
GMC Vandura cargo van.
hardest The findings, from research
undertaken by trackdays.
workloads co.uk based on bookings,
shows that nostalgia still
X Thanks to heavy-duty
reigns supreme with pop
steel construction and with culture cars and people
a tough powder-coat finish, wanting to get behind the
the new Clarke CMTC1 manual wheel of their on-screen
tyre changer will withstand even favourites.
the most challenges of workloads
in any workshop or garage.
The tyre changer will do the job
on tyres up to 19in in size, and
features a bead breaker, mounting
and demounting tools.

£214.80 Autoinform event

machinemart.co.uk cancelled in the Midlands.
£22.37 Ireland show to go ahead
69PitStop.com X The Original Equipment
Suppliers Aftermarket
No more scrubbing Association (OESAA) has

to remove bugs Sacré bleu! announced that Autoinform

Live has been cancelled
X Often, removing insects from your It’s a 2CV shirt! due to the coronavirus
paintwork can involve a whole load of effort X The perfect present for and will take place at the
and an element of risk in damaging your any fan of this French classic, same time next year. All
paintwork during the process. Gtechniq, these “Vive la 2CV” t-shirts those who have purchased
tickets have been refunded.
formulator of ceramic surface coatings, has offer a tongue in cheek treat
However, OESAA remains
launched its bid to end that problem with its that’s a must for Citroën
committed to going
new Bug Remover version two. marque car club members.
forward with Autoinform
All you need to do is 69 PIT STOP offer these duds Ireland, due to take place
£5.99 apply the product onto the in black, blue, red and white, on September 26-27 at the
gtechniq.com paintwork with a spray, with sizes ranging from small NSC in Dublin, providing
leave it to work for a short to 3XL. You can even get the COVID-19 pandemic
time, and then hose off the residue with a deal of three of the shirts has passed. Further
a pressure washer. It’ll save on your elbow if you fancy ordering the information at OESAA
grease and eliminate the need for using any ‘Tricolore set’, a tribute to the oe-suppliers.org
caustic chemicals. French national flag.

Click & Collect vehicle spares, workshop tools and leisure

equipment at over 400 independent member stores. www.caarparts.co.uk

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020pCar Mechanics 19

CM Insider
NEWS IN BRIEF
Free EV support for
NHS heroes
X MG Motor UK has
announced that it is
supplying up to 100 fully-
electric MG ZS EVs to NHS
agencies across the country
in order to support their
work in the battle against
coronavirus. The cars
will be supplied via MG’s
nationwide dealer network
for up to six months,
completely free-of-charge.
The first few cars were
supplied to Lancashire and
South Cumbria NHS Trust
by MG dealer Chorley Group.
Learner driver pass rates
fall to 10-year low, says
government
X Department for Transport
figures have revealed that,
of the 1,470,000 learners
that took their theory
test over the past year,
only 47% passed. The
figures have been falling
since 2009, when 64%
passed. Similarly, 47% of
the 1,226,000 learners
that took their practical
test passed in the past 12
months. The stats also
show that men consistently
outperform women in
passing the practical test,
whereas women lead the
pass rate for the theory
assessment.
“The fact that pass rates
are continuing to fall isn’t
necessarily a bad thing
for other road users,
because it indicates
the testing process is
becoming more rigorous
and comprehensive each
year,” says Greg Wilson,
founder of car insurance
comparison website
quotezone.co.uk
Click & Collect vehicle spares, workshop tools and leisure
equipment at over 400 independent member stores.
20 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
NEW from LASER
Peace of mind for
heavy-duty lifting
X Designed to lift or pull a load of up to 2500kg, the heavy-duty
ratchet-operated high lift farm jack from Laser is able to raise loads
over one metre high with the strong, cast iron base.
If you need extra stability for the heaviest of loads, you can also
purchase the optional support base that spreads the load and
reduces the chance of the jack sinking on soft ground, for example.
For easy and safe storage, the optional handle lock simply presses down into
place and secures the jack handle against the main column.
Versatile enough to be used for anything from engine
lifting to winching vehicles up hills, the jack’s latch
£137.16 (7665 high lift farm jack)
jaw mechanism can be slid into the desired height
rather than having to be ratcheted into position, £60.96 (7666 support base)
saving a lot of time on any job. £16.78 (7667 handle lock)
lasertools.co.uk
It’s hammer time,
with this precision set
X Perfect for popping in trim clips or prying
them open with the integrated handle, the
Laser Tools mini precision hammer set (part
number 7615 for the multi-head set or 7617 £37.34 (set)
for the hammer alone) is a versatile tool and £13.42
essential for working in tight spaces. (hammer alone)
Measuring in at 175mm total (the pry lasertools.co.uk
bar is 90mm), the lightweight hammer on
its own is supplied with a soft head and a hard head.
However, with the full set you’ll get six – copper, rubber,
aluminium and steel rounded heads, and copper and
plastic flat heads. In addition to clip manipulation, this
makes it ideal for basic steep panel work and other tasks,
too. Each head simply screws in and out of place for easily
interchangeable turnaround time.
The shaft of the hammer is incredibly flexible, giving a dead blow when
used and preventing any unnecessary damage, and every part in the set is
housed in a sturdy blow-moulded case for convenience and easy storage in a toolbox.
No need to brake a sweat £18.74
lasertools.co.uk
with this one-man tool
X Even more relevant in these times of social distancing and
isolation, if you're working on your own and need to quickly bleed
a brake or clutch hydraulic system, this one-man bleed valve
(part number 7700) will have you sorted.
Not only does it save time and the effort of others in helping
to get the job done, but it also ensures the essential prevention
of fluid and air being pulled back into the system via the bleed
nipple when the pedal or lever is released.
Use when one-man brake bleeding is required: fit the valve,
open the bleed nipple, pump the pedal and let the fluid flow. Use
when pushing the caliper pistons back before fitting new pads —
stops old fluid being pushed back into the hydraulic system. The
one-way valve prevents any
air being pulled back into
the system. When done
remove the one-way valve,
tighten the bleed nipple
and the job is done.
The one-man bleed valve
system is also compatible with the fluid catch bottle
(part number 6592) with a capacity of 1500cc at £42.41.
www.caarparts.co.uk
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 CM Insider

Automotive marketplace NEWS IN BRIEF

drops fees during period
of uncertainty
X Auto Trader has responded to the unprecedented
period of uncertainty from COVID-19 by not charging
retailer customers for advertising packages over
the course of April, and allowing customers to defer
payment of their March costs by 30 days.
The support comes as the current climate calls for Consumption concerns
support from both sides of the industry. Nathan Coe, during lockdown
Auto Trader CEO commented: “It remains important X Early morning drivers
for retailers to advertise their stock online as people looking to beat the
are still buying cars and, if they can’t see those cars, supermarket queues for
it will be even harder for retailers to make sales. supplies could be at risk of
“It is equally important that we continue to prioritise the wellbeing and safety of our people, drink-driving from alcohol
and we are taking all necessary action to ensure that they are receiving the support they need to consumed the night before,
continue to serve our customers.” says breathalyser expert,
Visit autotrader.co.uk for more details. AlcoSense. They are warning
motorists in lockdown at
home to be wary of large

Powerflex launch multiple-marque measures consumed in

the evenings if planning on

range of anti-roll bar bushes driving the next day.

X British automotive bush specialist, Powerflex, has released new anti-roll Electric vehicle training
bar mounting bush options for a large range of key enthusiast models. heads to the Caribbean
At entry-level and rendered in specially formulated blends, the Powerflex X RWC Training Centre
polyurethane bushes are ideal for improving performance, ensuring is working with the
longevity and replacing connections that could be decades old. government in St Lucia
to provide electric vehicle
Range updates and revisions include mounting bushes for:
training for Caribbean
Alfa Romeo 147 (2000-2010)
From £34.68 automotive technicians.
Alfa Romeo 156 (1997-2007)
powerflex.co.uk The government-backed
Alfa Romeo GT (2003-2010) partnership will see RWC
Audi 80/90 quattro including Avant (1991-1996) deliver further EV courses
Audi S2 including Avant (1991-1995) throughout 2020 and
Audi RS2 Avant (1994-1995) beyond, as it leads a major
BMW 7-Series (2001-2008) focus on encouraging
Volkswagen Golf (1985-1992) the uptake of electric
Volkswagen Jetta (1985-1992) vehicles across the island.
Volkswagen Corrado (1989-1995) This training will ensure
Volkswagen Golf (1992-1998) the automotive sector’s
Volkswagen Golf Cabrio (1997-2004) infrastructure there is
The road series performance bushes sit at the heart of the Powerflex range, developed as uprated capable as it heads towards
replacements on OEM parts. These are designed for vehicles that spend most of their time on the its sustainable development
road, providing improved chassis performance. goals by 2030.
For high performance needs, the black series bushes bring big benefits to track and motorsport
Formula 1 rivals team-up
use. For maximum control, they’re designed to be 25% stiffer than the road series range.
for Project Pitlane
Finally, for the restoration crowd, the heritage collection bushes are specially developed in
X Seven UK-based F1
classic dark grey colour to mimic the appearance of a standard rubber bush.
teams, their technology
Powerflex offers a lifetime warranty on its entire range of road and race products. partners and the race
series’ governing body have
been working together
New parts search to manufacture medical
devices in response to
facility is HELLA good COVID-19. Aston Martin
Red Bull Racing, BWT
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 Tales from
the workshop
Finding & fixing advice from our garage proprietor Steve Rothwell

BMW M5 The spark plugs and

coil packs are quite

Sticky coil pack reachable on this

V8 engine. Even the
most difficult side
X Modern spark plugs are made to last a lot longer (the nearside) is
than their earlier counterparts and the upside of this quite accessible.
is of course that the job of replacing them doesn’t
need to be carried out so often. The downside is that
knowing the plugs are not a regular service item allows
the manufacturers to place them in slightly more
inaccessible places. Quite a few motors now require the
inlet manifold to be removed to access the spark plugs.
On this 2002 BMW M5 (E39) with the 4.9-litre V8
engine, the spark plugs are quite accessible once the air
filters and top covers are removed. The problem was that
the rubber sleeve on the coil packs had been in contact
with the spark plug ceramic body for so long that they were reluctant to let go. The answer is NOT to keep tugging and
twisting, but to use a thin piece of wire with a small hook on the end. Slide this down the side of the rubber sleeve and then
hook the base to lift it up while withdrawing the coil pack. This normally does the trick.

VOLKSWAGEN TRANSPORTER FORD FIESTA

Going nowhere On-off indicators

X This is a problem I believe away and were no longer
will become more common giving any grip, allowing the
as the VW T30 begins to shaft to spin freely.
age. This 2009 model had Once the vehicle arrived at
been well cared for and was the workshop, I was able to
treated to a regular service remove the offside driveshaft
and MOT regime, yet it still and confirm the problem.
found itself sitting at the side Bought from VW, a new
of the road going nowhere. driveshaft and the short inner
The source of the problem shaft from the diff unit add up
was that the splines inside to more than £600. However,
the inner portion of the because this problem is
offside driveshaft had worn becoming more common,
motor factors supply a
complete kit for about £250.
The main point you
should remember when
reassembling is to smear a
light coating of grease on the
splines between the inner and
outer driveshaft sections.
The splines on the driveshaft were worn
out. The inner shaft and fixing bolt (see
inset pic) also need to be replaced.
X When the owner of this 2002 Ford Fiesta was telling me
about her problem, I wasn’t sure at first if she was joking
or not. She told me “the indicators go on and off”. What she
actually meant is they would start working fine then after a
short burst they would stop working altogether. Turning them
off and on again would give another short burst of operation
before they again failed. When this happened, she could hear
a buzzing from the steering column.
The problem was
quite simple, caused by
the small flasher unit
that’s plugged into the
switch assembly. Once
the steering column
cowling was removed
the flasher unit could
be swapped for a new
one. This rectified the
problem and now her
indicators function
properly.
Renewing the relay that plugs
into the steering column switch
rectified all the problems.

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 The retaining clips had Find Fitment Videos
broken away – this had on Youtube
allowed the shoes to
fall out of place and rub
the inside of the drum.
FIAT SEICENTO

Door latch
problem
X The Fiat Seicento is known
for a sticking bonnet catch
problem causing possible
loss of the safety secondary
VOLVO V70 catch. On this 1999 model
there was no such problem

Annoying handbrake noise and the bonnet catch had

X The rear brakes on this 2003 Volvo V70
had been making a noise for a little while.
The owner wasn’t too concerned – the
Volvo is an automatic, so he usually relied
on the parking mechanism in the gearbox as
opposed to the handbrake.
The handbrake on this Volvo is like most
Volvo handbrakes, a completely separate
mechanism to the foot brake. It uses a pair of
dedicated brake shoes within a drum section
of the rear discs and has no connection with
the operation of the foot brake.
AUDI A4
been well lubricated and was
fully operating.
During the MOT, it became obvious that
The problem on this little
there was a problem with the handbrake,
Fiat was that the driver’s
which needed to be attended to. Removing
door exterior handle would
the rear brake caliper and then the brake
stick up when the door was
disc, I could see that the handbrake shoes
opened. The owner of this
had broken away from the retaining springs,
Fiat had to be careful because
allowing them to fall outwards and rub
if he failed to push the
against the inside of the disc/drum.
handle down when opening
Although slight wear had taken place within
the door, it would suddenly
the drum, fitting a new pair of retainers to the
fly open when cornering.
shoes and cleaning everything up resulted in a
The remedy was simple
more than satisfactory handbrake operation.
and, just like the problem
with the bonnet catch,
lubrication was the answer.
The corrosion The door panel was removed
around the disc to ensure all the mechanism

Bad brake face was causing

the poor feel to
the brake pedal.
was properly lubricated;
and lubricating from the
inside also saved the mess
feeling of excess lubricant running
down the outside of the door.
X When a brake imbalance is Once I was happy that
felt through the brake pedal, the handle was operating
is it normally assumed that correctly the door panel was
the problem is with the front refitted into place.
brakes. The vibration on the
brake pedal of this 2005 Audi
A4 could only be felt by the
owner when driving above
40mph. While driving around
town with normal use the
brakes felt perfectly fine.
He had the front brake discs and pads replaced in an effort to solve the problem,
thinking that he may have a distorted disc. But when this didn’t make any improvements,
he suspected the ABS system may be at fault and asked me to have a look.
After test-driving the vehicle and checking it with my scanner, I wasn’t too sure if the
ABS was the cause. Going back to basics, I intended to take off all four wheels and check
the run-out of the brake discs.
After checking the rear discs, I needed to go no further. Rust had eaten into the surface
and small sections were blowing out at random, causing all the braking problems. With Sticking in the up position when
new rear brake discs and pads fitted, the Audi had a smooth brake at any speed. opening the door prevented the
catch from operating correctly.

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Tales from the Workshop ON TOUR

Tales on Tour
Technical editor Steve Rothwell visits
businesses listed in CM’s Good Garage Guide

Elmwood TVR, Ewell, Surrey

X Listed in Car Mechanics as Elmwood
TVR, Pinewood place, I first checked
the website listed of TVRFIX.com.
This now goes to a new website,
carservicerepairssurrey.co.uk, which
also informed me that the business
has moved to new, larger premises in
Kingston Road, Ewell.
With the postcode set into my sat-nav
I was quite confident in finding
Elmwood TVR located in Ewell without
too much of a problem.
Sitting on Kingston Road behind the
Esso fuel station, even without any
signage the workshop is nice and easy
to find. Driving around to the car park
and reception area I knew I was in the
right place, with three TVRs sitting in
the car park.
Toby Spencer started up in business
on his own in 1993 when he went out
on the road as a mobile mechanic,
working from the back of his van. After
nearly ten years Toby, together with a
colleague who carried out bodywork,
moved into premises at Pinewood
Place, half a mile from the workshop
where they’re now located.
Toby partnered up with his wife Clair
in 2003, and together they formed
Elmwood TVR. In 2008 the Pinewood
premises were taken over by Aldi to
be redeveloped as a supermarket, and
they needed to find another workshop.
Elmwood’s new MOT
ramp can take vehicles
up to five tonnes; and
with the high roof,
motorhomes are happily
accommodated.
Vowing not to rent again and to give
them a bit of stability, they looked for
a freehold site. Fate was kind and they
found it just half a mile up the road.
This is the workshop that they have
now occupied for the past twelve years.
Originally the whole site had been
owned by a Toyota dealership, and what
is now the fuel station at the front was
then a showroom. When the dealership
left, the freehold was divided up: the
front of the site became a fuel station
and the back, which had been the
workshop, was used by Avis as a car
hire site. All the plant and machinery
used by the Toyota garage had gone
and this meant that when Elmwood
bought the site they were starting off
with an empty building and a clean
sheet. They had all the new equipment,
including the ramps, tyre-fitting
equipment and so on laid out exactly
as they wanted it.
The one thing they did inherit in
the workshop was the exhaust gas
extraction system, and this is a great
bonus when the doors are all shut.
They equipped the workshop with
three two-post ramps and a four-post
ramp, as well as the MOT ramp. This
has recently been replaced with a new
five-tonne ramp in the MOT bay, which
was upgraded to allow the testing of
camper vans. The business can now
carry out class 4, 5, and 7 MOTs, as well
as motorcycle class 1 and 2 MOTs.

Toby is checking out a SEAT Ibiza

using a smoke generator in an
attempt to find an inlet manifold leak.

Clair (right) and Megan (left) run the

reception and office, ensuring that the
garage is not male-dominated.

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Meet the team
Clair runs things in the office while
Toby is hands-on in the workshop.
Joining him are Peter Croft who has
been with him for 19 years and is a
fully trained TVR technician, and Alan
Wilkinson, a technician who has been
there 17 years. Mark Rigney is the MOT
tester – and front of house in reception
is Megan Spencer, Toby’s daughter,
who has been working at the garage for
two years now.
Using the KIS online system for
vehicle invoicing, they can also take
bookings via the website, but any
bookings taken this way are confirmed
by phone to ensure they know exactly
what the vehicle is coming in for. Clair
prefers taking telephone bookings
because she can ensure the diary does
not become overbooked. The garage is
open from 8am-6pm Monday to Friday
and 9am-1pm on Saturdays.
Clair likes the garage to be seen as
female-friendly, believing some all-
male garages can be intimidating. With
Megan in reception and with Clair there
to talk over any mechanical queries
in a straightforward way, she feels
this helps communicate mechanical
problems in a way that any non-
technical customers will understand.
Areas of speciality
As a TVR specialist, looking after
TVRs used to be at least 30% of the
business but this has reduced to
around 20% as TVRs become slightly
less common. However, being a TVR
specialist does attract quite a few
customers of different performance
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Alan carries out an oil
change on this 2011
Peugeot 3008 diesel as @febi.bilstein
part of its regular service.
The day I visited, they had just
completed a gearbox change on a Ford
Transit and had various motors in for
servicing and repair. Two of them had
management lights showing on the
dash, and these were added problems
that needed to be solved.
The core of regular customers at
Elmwood TVR understand the need for
regular servicing, and normally get the
service and MOT done on a yearly basis.
As Elmwood TVR do sometimes work
on vehicles that are slightly rarer than
most, they will allow the customer to
supply service parts if they are difficult to
vehicles. Classics and a few rarer obtain, but they won’t use secondhand
or major parts supplied by the customer.
American motors are often brought in
for attention. Clair and Toby are both
dedicated petrolheads and, as well
as their own TVR, Toby has a 700bhp Challenges ahead
I asked Clair what the worst aspect
Audi RS6, although they use a slightly
of running a workshop was, and she
less powerful smart car for the daily
told me that the increasing changes in
commute to work. Clair also told me
vehicle technology were making things
that, with petrol in their veins, motoring
more difficult: more training and more
magazines are their holiday read.
equipment is needed to keep pace with
Petrol vehicles are their passion, and
the changes in technology.
although routine servicing and MOT
And having to explain to customers
work doesn’t pose a problem, anything
that the EML doesn’t just cover one
too complex on diesel vehicles is dealt
component and can come back on due
with by a diesel specialist who comes in
to a different problem a few months
when needed. And although they have
later is a growing problem.
completed the hybrid vehicle factory
safety course and do service and MOT
a few hybrids, they work predominantly
with petrol, and like to put all their
effort into what they know best –
performance petrol vehicles.
The diagnostic equipment Elmwood
own includes the Snap-on Verus, Autel
and dedicated VAG software. Toby has
a strong opinion on having the right
tool for the right job at all times, which
was clearly evident when I visited – he
was using a smoke generator to help
track down the source of an air leak on
the SEAT Ibiza he was working on. And
he confirms that the time saved using
this tool to detect manifold air leaks
has made it well worth the expense of Pete checks out this 2008 Vauxhall Zafira,
buying it. Vehicle data and specifications which is in for service and MOT. It also has
a fault code for a lean running problem.
are accessed via Autodata.
With a long-standing regular
Elmwood Vehicles Ltd
customer base, Elmwood TVR do not
278 Kingston Road,
need to advertise and, other than
Ewell, Surrey KT19 0SH.
appearing on yell.com and in the local
0208 394 2847
freesheet, they restrict promotion to
carservicerepairssurrey.co.uk
their Facebook page and the website.
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 25
 Win COMPETITION

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 udi A4 Cabr io le t 1 .8 T
Proje c t A
Belts, pumps
& compressors
PART TWO: The 1.8T cambelt doesn’t look
especially easy to change – the front bumper
has to come off! Andrew Everett gets his
hands dirty and changes the belt, the water
pump and air-conditioning compressor.
Here is the North-South
engine layout on our
A4 – it was also used
on various Passats and
Octavias. It looks quite
daunting but in reality
I found it very easy to
pull the front bumper
off and bring the front
panel complete with
radiator and aircon
condenser forward.
T
he Audi A4 followed the
traditional Audi design in having
front-wheel drive, but having
a North-South (inline) engine
– a design that goes way back to the
late-1960s Audi Super 90 as well as the
five-pot stuff. That means the front of the
engine is a tight fit against the radiator
with nowhere near enough room to swing
a spanner. So, the front bumper has to
come off and the complete front panel
drawn forwards to give the required six
inches or so of room to access everything.
There are various ways of doing this
– the official line is to replace one of the
bumper mounting strut bolts per side
with some studding and a nut, the idea
being that you slide the front panel (also
called a lock-holder because it houses
the bonnet catch) forwards.
WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM
30 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
We did things slightly differently for a
couple of reasons. Our air-conditioning
system had absolutely zero gas left, so
I disconnected the offside aircon pipe
going into the side of the condenser –
this would hopefully give more room
because the front panel may move
forward even more. I also removed the
headlights – it’s easy with just two Torx
bolts to remove and one to slacken per
side before the lights can be wiggled out.
I removed them as they were cloudy and
needed a clean-up anyway. This also
made accessing the bumper retaining
nuts easier. I didn’t bother with the
long bolts either, preferring to rest the
front panel on a couple of sturdy plastic
buckets – it’s not that heavy.
Despite what the Haynes manual says,
there were not the expected three nuts
in association with
BUY ONLINE OR CALL US ON
0121 626 7971
JOBS LIST
 REPLACE TIMING BELT PART 2
& WATER PUMP MAY 20
 REPLACE AIRCON PART 2
COMPRESSOR MAY 20
 INVESTIGATE WHEEL
BEARING/TRANSMISSION NOISE
 RECTIFY BODYWORK ISSUES
 DROP THE SUMP &
RENEW OIL PICK-UP
 OVERHAUL BRAKES
 ENGINE SERVICE
PLUS ANYTHING ELSE THAT ARISES IN THE
FOLLOWING MONTHS
or bolts holding the front bumper on
at the extremities – but with the front
headlight unit removed, it was very
easy to remove the one 10mm nut per
side fitted to our Cabriolet – we suspect
the saloons and Avants with their
identical front ends differ slightly here
from the convertible.
Improved part
The original 1.8T cambelt tensioner was
of the gas strut type. This uses a tensioner
with a gas pressure plunger just like
a bonnet or tailgate strut and they are
known to fail, losing pressure and causing
the belt to jump.
The INA-made belt kit GSF supplied
us was a later supersession with a
mechanical adjuster very much like
the type used by GM engines (Vectra,
Astra) as well as older single-cam VAG
units. This is a straight swap and easy to
tension with an 8mm Allen key. The part
number for the belt kit is 129VG1100;
and GSF confirmed that INA (original
equipment from the Schaeffler LuK
Group) made a component change from
kit 5636471 (gas tensioner) to 530054610
(mechanical). The original type is no
0121 626 7971
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 CM project 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T S line
longer manufactured and while the £264
list price is expensive, GSF’s discount
reduces this considerably.
We were worried about the belt on
ours, but despite the lack of an invoice
for a belt change, it had received a new
one possibly between 10 or 20,000 miles
ago and was still fit for work.
Finally, we found the source of the
rattle at idle – the Denso-made aircon
compressor was indeed faulty with lots
CAMBELT & WATER PUMP RENEWAL
Jack up the front of the car if you like
1 (it’s not essential) or turn the wheels
to gain access to these T20 Torx screws –
sizes vary, of course. These secure the front
of the arch liner to the edges of the front
bumper and there are also a couple more
Torx behind the arch liner to remove.
of play in the end bearing. I fitted a good
secondhand one, had the system gassed
up and it seems fine.
As ever, the rules of cambelt changes
apply – check, check and check again.
Use a torque wrench and follow
instructions to the letter. INA belt kits
come with diagrams and torque figures.
Wash away antifreeze spills with water,
and clean-the ground with detergents –
antifreeze is poisonous to wildlife. VAG-COM
X Designed by Philadelphia-based
Ross Tech in the early 2000s,
VCDS (VAG-COM Diagnostic
System) was the first proper
VAG-dedicated diagnostics system
for Windows-based laptops.
Regularly updated, it was the first
also to allow live data in 2001, first
to allow live timing data on the TDI
engine in 2003 and in 2004, and
first to use current VAG Group data
with a direct CAN connection.
Over the past 20 years it has
been continuously updated with
the result that it is the only system
Use a long T30 Torx and slacken the
2 rear lower headlight retaining screw
in town that could have helped us
if you intend to remove the headlights. The recode the ABS module on our
upper bolts are already out for both the previous 2007 Golf GTI project car.
headlights as well as those that secure the ross-tech.com/vag-com
upper part of the front panel to the inner
wings. They all come undone very easily.

We popped along to see Volks-Tek

Here is a shot of one of the infamous
3 VAG electrical plugs – this one is for
the headlight. There is a special place in hell
reserved for whoever designed these as they
can be very difficult to remove until you get
the hang of them – it’s a combination of
thumb pressure and a screwdriver.
Five minutes is all it takes to remove
4 an A4 headlight. You need to pull it
forwards to clear the rear lower Torx you
slackened. Try not to remove it; it’s tricky
to refit without dropping it and a magnetic
Torx driver is essential. The light then comes
forward and out at an angle like this.
located in Dronfield, Derbyshire for
a full VAG-COM scan and found a
couple of problems:
Engine Speed Sensor (G28) P0322
– no signal – intermittent
Clutch Pedal Switch (F36) P1539 –
implausible signal
Both cleared and not reappeared.

W To get even more room, we need

5 to remove this upper air intake that
screws to the front panel and clips into place
on the air filter box. A pair of small crosshead
screws are removed and away it comes. A
nice high intake makes the A4 1.8T far less
prone to flood water ingress as well.

X With the headlight out, access to

6 the single 10mm bumper to front wing
nut is vastly improved. The other way is to
remove the front part of the arch liner and
use a very long extension and a socket –
refitting the nut could be fun! So far so good
and some intelligent design from Audi.

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CM project 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T S line

CAMBELT & WATER PUMP RENEWAL CONTINUED

W And the bumper

7 is off... As you pull
it away, disconnect the
wiring plugs to the two
horns (one either side) as
well as the big multi-plug
on the passenger side that
services the foglight and
the headlight washers (if
fitted). Apparently, the
headlight washer pipes
can be a real pig to unplug.
You can, in fact, remove the two bumper
8 bar retaining bolts with the skin fitted
by removing the two plastic grilles around the
foglights. But after 15 years, plastic is brittle
enough and we elected to leave them alone
and do it this way. You need a 6mm Allen key
for this easy job.

Now to remove the bumper bar support
9 gas struts. This is where you need your
long bolts or studs if you intend to support
the front panel in this manner. Our bolts
were T30, and the struts are handed. There is
plenty of ‘give’ in the aircon pipe you can see
here for this to happen.
Now unbolt the front panel from the
10 sides of the front wings. Note that
the captive nut that the Torx screw locates
into is adjustable and can be screwed in or
out to adjust the wing/bumper fit. So, hold
it still with long-nose pliers if needed as you
remove the Torx screws.
It’s not essential, but because our
11 aircon system had no gas, we undid
this pipe so that we could perhaps get a bit
more clearance to do the belt. As ever, take
extreme care with aircon pipes and wear
goggles – you really don’t want refrigerant
hitting you in the face as the pipe comes off.

W Now drain the cooling system

12 – Audi make it easy. We’ve already
removed the undertray. Locate this drain tap
on the passenger side and with a screwdriver,
pull this C-clip outwards and pull the tap
down. Now disconnect the top radiator hose
and the overflow pipe to the header tank.
X This is where we are after about
13 45 minutes or so. The front panel is
supported and there is loads of room to work.
In many ways this is an easier belt to do than
most transverse engines where there is an
inner wing in the way. Also notice the very
new-looking alternator.

W The upper belt cover comes off

14 easily. Just use a screwdriver or finger
pressure to pop the two metal clips on the
side, and release the hoses from the two
pipe holders. You can either lift them up and
out, or unscrew the holders from the belt
cover. We chose the first, easier option.
X Now to remove the auxiliary belt
15 and that is super-easy. Just use a
17mm open-ended spanner as shown on
the tensioner body and turn it clockwise
until the belt is loose enough to remove.
ALWAYS draw a diagram of the belt run for
reassembly. The tensioner is spring-loaded.

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 CM project 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T S line

Someone was here before us. The red
16 paint marks highlight the timing mark
on the camshaft pulley. Despite having twin
camshafts, the engine has one pulley here
and a chain inside the engine that links two
cams. Thankfully the crank and cam oil seals
were nice and dry.
Likewise, there was another paint
17 mark on the crank pulley damper and
the metal lower belt cover. The mark on the
cover is very faint, though there is another
way of checking the timing once the pulley
has been removed. Even so, take time to
clean this area up and make marks yourself.
Use a 6mm Allen key and remove the
18 four Allen bolts that secure the crank
pulley to the crank hub. This is dowelled to
the crank hub so it can only go one way, with
the dowel being a loose fit so that it cannot
rust on to the hub. The bolts are done up to
10Nm plus 90°.

W We now have five 10mm bolts

19 to remove, and then the lower
timing belt cover will come off. This one
needs a clean before reassembly but
nothing a can of brake cleaner won’t sort
out. You can see the clean and new-
looking condition of the belt tensioner
components as well.

X We can now see the crankshaft

20 hub and the red paint mark
applied to assist with TDC setting. The
yellow lines show that the tooth above
the crank bolt hole should line up with
the rib on the oil pump housing. Use
brake cleaner to really clean this area up
before fitting the new belt.

W We’re replacing the original

21 gas strut type tensioner with a
mechanical one. Slacken the cambelt by
using some right-angled circlip pliers like
this while you undo the 13mm tensioner
nut. The belt will now de-tension and
can be removed. We wouldn’t advise
using this gas strut system now.
X This photo shows the two types
22 of tensioner, with the original
system on the left. You’re supposed to be
able to turn the tensioner anti-clockwise
with an Allen key to depress the gas
plunger, but it appeared to have seized
because it just rounded out the Alley key
hole. In the bin it goes.

W Here is the new tensioner

23 fitted. The alloy bracket with
the small roller slips underneath the
upper edge of the oil pump housing
(circled on pic 24) and the bolts are
torqued to 10Nm. As ever, I used Würth
green thread lock on this job. The black
bracket (arrowed) on the tensioner fits
into the core plug hole.
X Next we can renew the water
24 pump. This forms part of the belt
tensioner system and must be renewed
every time. Remove the three 10mm bolts
and the pump will come out. No, that’s
not rusty coolant, but the correct pinky-
orange Audi G12/G13 long-life coolant.

WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM 0121 626 7971

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 33

CM project 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet 1.8T S line
CAMBELT RENEWAL CONTINUED
The water pump is fitted with the
26 rubber O-ring greased lightly (bolts
to 15Nm), belt fitted and adjusted, lower
belt cover and crank pulley refitted. Turn the
engine over two complete turns on the crank
centre bolt to ‘settle’ the belt. Recheck the
timing marks and that the belt is taut.
You can now reassemble everything,
28 but we had another task – replacing
the aircon compressor. With gas evacuated,
start by removing the two pipes from the
compressor – ours were T40 Torx but can
vary. Remove the pipes very carefully, taking
care not to nick the O-rings.
Remove this plastic bleed screw on
30 the coolant pipe to the right of the
cam cover. Add VAG G13 (or equivalent)
coolant slowly until you can see it filling
the pipe. Run the engine until the heater is
hot and refit the screw as coolant tries to
escape – that’s the system bled. Easy!
WWW.GSFCARPARTS.COM
34 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
W Our INA water PROJECT COSTS
25 pump is an OE
PURCHASE OF CAR
Audi type with the
£1470.80
plastic impellers. These
get a bad reputation
but they’re fine, really –
plastic is lighter and the
‘closed’ impeller design
better. We noticed that
the heater is much
quicker to respond with
this new one fitted as
opposed to the metal PARTS COSTS
open design.
INA cambelt kit £264.28
INA water pump £91.67
Used aircon compressor £20
Aircon recharge £50
Auxiliary belt £26.99
TOTAL £1923.74
USEFUL CONTACTS
GSF Car Parts 0121 626 7981
gsfcarparts.com
Adjust the tensioner as shown so that
27 the lug on the right-hand side of the
moving plate is aligned with the cut-out on NEXT MONTH
the centre plate. Turn the engine over twice We replace the A4’s noisy
again by hand and ensure the 13mm centre front wheel bearing.
nut is torqued to 26Nm. Now spin the engine
on the starter and recheck.
HAYNES MANUALS
X There are two Haynes manuals
for our car, one being the UK printed
version and the other a Haynes USA
publication. We have both: the UK
version bought from Halfords like we
normally do, and a USA version sent to
us from Haynes in Sparkford.
Of the two, the USA version (Haynes
number 15030) doesn’t cover the diesel,
but does the Cabriolet in more detail
than the UK version – and I preferred
Three easy 13mm bolts secure the
29 compressor to the engine plus an
the layout and instructions. The UK
version is Haynes number 4609.
electrical connector. The drive belt hasn’t
Both are highly useful books with
been refitted as yet on ours – if you’re
invaluable torque figures.
doing the job from scratch you don’t have
to remove the bumper to get the belt off. haynes.co.uk
There’s just enough room to remove it.
With the engine running, check for
31 unusual sounds and any fluid leaks.
Ours sounded much better without the rattly
compressor. An aircon recharge cost us
£50 from a local garage and so far it’s still
blowing cold air. We’re hoping the initial leak
was the worn compressor!
0121 626 7971
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
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TDI low fuel pressure CASE STUDY
High-pressure diesel
fuel injection faults
can be expensive to
rectify; Rob Marshall
shows how extra time
spent on diagnosing
the fault before
replacing parts can
save a small fortune.
W
hile the precision offered
by high-pressure common-
rail diesel fuel injection
has made engines far more
powerful and efficient, downsides
include extra complication and
sensitivity to fuel pressure deviations.
Naturally, the whole system is monitored
by the engine management software,
including the fuel pressure at various
points. The low-pressure side of the
system draws fuel to the high-pressure
pump via the diesel filter. From here,
the high-pressure pump forces the fuel
into the common rail, which acts as a
pressure storage accumulator to which
the fuel injectors are connected.
DIYers should neither be petrified,
nor complacent. Treat the fuel system
with respect. Cleanliness is critical;
the smallest particle of grit can cause
rapid wear within the expensive pump
and injectors. As the high-pressure side
can experience more than 1200BAR at
engine cranking speeds alone, the force
at which diesel can be ejected from a
loosened union of a running engine can
be sufficiently high to pierce skin and
enter the bloodstream. You would then
have a much more severe and urgent
problem with which to contend…
The purpose of this procedure is to show
a logical method of testing and evaluating
high- and low-pressure fuel circuit
36 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
VAG 2.0 TDI
low fuel
pressure
analysis
performance. Aside from the health and
safety implications, don’t rely solely on
fault codes. Despite our demonstration
car suffering severe running problems,
no dashboard engine management lamp
was illuminated. Therefore, you will need
suitable equipment to extract live data, be
it diagnostically or using the ‘old-fashioned’
method of analogue pressure gauges.
To show the full process, we had
access to a professional workshop and
professional diagnostic equipment made
by Delphi Technologies. While these
aspects are normally out of reach of
typical DIYers, it should give you an idea
of the information level that is required
of your diagnostic equipment to analyse
these kinds of faults.
The Volkswagen Audi Group 2.0-litre
TDI unit, code named EA189, was
part of the ‘Dieselgate’ emissions
exposure in 2015. On our Audi A5
case-study, we focus on the poor
running, which required detailed
diagnostics to identify the cause.
Turning
detective
The demonstration car was a
2012 Audi A5 TDI, fitted with
Volkswagen Group’s venerable
‘Dieselgate-spec’ 2.0-litre Euro V
engine. Note that emphasis is given
not just on the make and model but
also details of its fuel injection system.
While mechanically-minded drivers
are more likely to establish patterns
that may give a clue to where the cause
lies, should you look after a friend or
relative’s car, quiz them for as much
information as possible. Has the tank
been brimmed with petrol accidentally?
This damages the high-pressure fuel
pump through lack of lubrication. Is it
overdue for a service? If so, knowing
that a blocked diesel filter alone can
cause havoc with fuel pressure, it is
worth checking.
In this case, the owner revealed that
his Audi had become either difficult
to start, regardless of coolant and
external temperatures, or ran roughly.
The fuel consumption had increased,
performance had dropped off and the
idle had become erratic. The fuel tank
was also above half full – a relevant
point, because some engine management
systems can adopt different running
characteristics to save fuel, when the
diesel falls below a preset low level.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 TDI low fuel pressure CASE STUDY

THE DIAGNOSTICS PROCEDURE

You need to establish the manufacturer and version of

Because this procedure relies on long periods of the ignition
1 being switched on, it’s a good idea to connect the 12V battery
to an external power source. Ideally, seek a smart charger with a
‘battery support’ facility. This reduces the chance of system voltages
running too low, which carries a risk of an engine non-start,
inaccurate readings, or even software corruption.
2 the engine management system; these can differ between
different examples of the same car model. This professional Delphi
VTI technical information system displays the relevant information,
along with more concise information about the level of tune. Further
investigations reveal that a Bosch EDC17C4 fuel system and a Bosch
CP4 high-pressure pump are fitted. Should your diagnostic system
not support this feature, ask if a garage/main dealer can tell you.

As no engine management light (MIL – Malfunction Indicator Lamp) was lit, we were unsurprised to find no engine management fault
3 codes. Accessing live data on a running engine is the main way of spotting any apparent abnormalities, but data can be useless if there
is no context. In this case, we researched that a typical pressure figure at the fuel rail during engine idle should be around 25,000-30,000kPa
(250-300BAR). The indicated 9270kPa (or 92.7BAR) is, therefore, unsatisfactory. Considering that the signal of the fuel pressure control valve
(see below) should be around 16-20%, the 37% reading was also unusual.

Knowledge is power. Therefore, before starting work on the fuel injection system, become familiar with the location of the various
4 components, what they do, and how they fit. For example, you do not wish to open a high-pressure fuel line accidentally. Quality garages
are at an advantage here, because their diagnostic systems explain this clearly, by providing the data required. Pictured is a screenshot of a
fuel pressure control valve on the end of the high-pressure common rail (identified as A3).

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 37

TDI low fuel pressure CASE STUDY

THE DIAGNOSTICS PROCEDURE CONTINUED

The lowly high-pressure readings from step 3 may have

5 been caused by a fuel delivery issue, ie. a problem with the
low-pressure supply. This could be caused by a variety of issues,
including a blocked low-pressure fuel pump strainer filter within the
tank. Because this car didn’t have a low-pressure switch, sensor or
regulator, obtaining direct low-fuel pressure data via the EOBD port
proved impossible. Fortunately, the low-pressure side was relatively
safe to test manually. A physical pressure gauge was connected to
the inlet for the high-pressure pump and the engine started. The
resultant pressure of ~4 BAR at idle was acceptable.
A low-tech, but reliable, method of checking the fuel flow is to
6 connect a hollow tube to a T-piece and ensure that the other
tube end is located within a clean translucent bottle. You may need
an assistant to hold the bottle so it doesn’t fall over and soak the
underbonnet area with fuel, when the engine is started. The flow,
in this instance, was around one litre every 20 seconds, which is a
satisfactory output. Therefore, the low-pressure side of the system
was in an acceptable condition.

As pressure loss can occur with worn fuel injectors, a time-
7 honoured method is to test for the excessive low-pressure
spill (or ‘leak-off’), without removing them from the engine. Each
delicate return pipe was disconnected carefully from its injector and
a suitable connector fitted in its place, the hose from which led to a
clean bottle (one per injector). While this spill assembly is part of a
professional kit (Delphi YDT732), DIY alternatives are available – but
ensure that they come with the correct connectors for your injectors.
After the engine was started, ran at idle speed for around
8 four minutes and then stopped, the bottles’ contents were
compared. A visual check was all that was necessary. As the quantity
of diesel within each bottle was similar, no single fuel injector
returned excessive quantities of fuel to the tank, which could be
responsible for a pressure drop. We concluded, therefore, that the
expensive precision fuel injectors are in good order and to remove
and replace them would have been an unnecessary expense.

Following the
10 instructions on the
screen, the engine was cranked
over, until the display directed
the technician to stop. The
displayed real-time pressure
was far below the expected
figure, which should have
been more than 1000BAR.
Clearly, the high-pressure
system was not developing
sufficient output. Yet, as with
all repairs, suspicion should
Assessing the pressure within the high-pressure fuel rail was have fallen first on the easiest
9 far riskier. Caution and the use of good-quality tools and and cheapest part. The very
equipment were essential. Delphi’s YDT732 professional kit includes last thing you would wish to do
a black box ‘false rail’, which emulates the real rail by isolating the is replace an expensive pump,
pump from the rest of the system. The high-pressure outlet from the only to find that the fault still
pump was disconnected from the car’s common rail (pictured inset) existed. Run a global diagnostic
and attached to the false rail. The fuel pressure should be zero, a fault code scan and reset any
minute after switching the ignition off. The digital display unit was codes that may have resulted
read from the driver’s seat and was wired to the false rail. from your tests.

38 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 TDI low fuel pressure CASE STUDY

With the regulator removed, it was vital to ensure that no

While the costly high-pressure pump could be blamed for not
11 delivering sufficient pressure, a faulty pressure regulator
causes the same high-pressure drop scenario. The earlier research,
detailed in steps 3 and 4, showed which components were present
and their locations. The regulator was identified, and unbolted by
removing its two securing screws.
12 contamination entered the fuel system. Do not disconnect
the regulator’s electrical wiring. In order to test the pump, a dummy
blank was fitted in its place. For this car, a suitable blank for a Bosch
CP4 pump features under Delphi’s part number YDT747. By doing this,
the pump would operate unregulated, so you can assess its output
and compare it with your earlier reading from step 10.

With thanks to:

Cross Motor
Engineering
Bidavon
This time, the measured pressure leapt to Industrial Estate
13 over 1100BAR. Compared to the initial reading 19c Waterloo Road
from step 10, when the regulator was installed, the While the regulator on this Bosch CP4 high-
difference indicated that the regulator was suspect. 14 pressure pump could have been renewed,
Bidford-on-Avon
B50 4JN
Replacing the regulator alone would have been a closer inspection revealed that its seal/O-ring
far less expensive than renewing the entire pump. had split (circled). This was replaced with one that
Therefore, spending a little more time on diagnosis, is compatible with diesel fuel. The dummy blanks Luke Cross
even if paying a garage to do it for you, can be very were then unbolted and cleaned, prior to the Paul Sinderberry
worthwhile and preferable to changing parts blindly. regulator being reinstalled to the pump. Mark Tierney

X Live data checks

15 are always worth
checking again, with the
engine running, to verify that
you really have solved the
problem. This screenshot,
taken from a Delphi DS150,
shows that the rail pressure
is now around 300BAR
(compared to the initial
92.7BAR – see step 3), with
a warm engine. The PWM
signal to the regulator has
also reduced to around 17%,
compared to the earlier 34%.
After a final global scan for
any fault codes, the engine
bay was checked for leaks
and the car returned to its
grateful owner.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 39

Total lockdown

Self-isolating
your car
While the COVID-19 pandemic places
heavy restrictions on personal transport
use, Rob Marshall advises what to do
if you place a car in short-term storage.

W
ith many people remaining on lockdown, owners reside in storage for the rest of the year. Due to government
of multiple vehicles are taking at least one of them advice changing daily, we’ve added weblinks and advise you to
off the road to save money. This guide should help confirm the latest updates.
you to avoid fines and keep your stored motor in The authorities are keen to point-out that the current
fine fettle over the spring and early summer. We presume that laws on vehicle condition, tax and MOT are still in force, so
the car is a typical example and not a cherished classic that will COVID-19 is not a valid excuse for flouting them.
W Iron-fallout remover loosens stubborn
iron deposits and causes them to turn
purple, before being rinsed off. While
popular for cleaning alloy wheels,
applying the product to paintwork will
stop iron particulates (from either the
brakes, or industrial fall-out) from turning
rusty and causing small orange marks to
appear on your paintwork.

X While this is not a comprehensive

detailing feature, using a pre-wash snow
foam on the paintwork helps to release
abrasive dirt from the surface, which is
washed away when you hose it off 5-10
minutes later. Bird faeces is especially
damaging to paint, if left to bake on the
finish by the sun. Let it soak; never scrub.

W Using the two-bucket method, one

containing car wash shampoo, with clean
cold water in the other one, wash the wet
bodywork by hand with a microfibre mitt.
Work from the top, down. Never allow
products to dry on the paint and try not to
wash the car in direct sunlight.

X Do not forget the underside. This

attachment fits to a domestic pressure
washer. Note that corrosion-causing salt
deposits from the winter are especially
stubborn, so using a gentle chemical
should help, such as this remover, sold by
Rustbuster: rust.co.uk

W Ensure that the car isn’t

parked beneath trees, because
falling deposits can damage
paintwork. Using a car cover
can also cause problems. As
you can’t go on a non-essential
trip to dry-out the brakes
(especially if you have cancelled
the road tax/insurance),
the handbrake could seize
S After drying the paintwork with a microfibre cloth, you could apply on. Should the car be stored
polish – but wax adds the protective property, especially to ultra-violet off-road on a flat surface,
light. You can even apply wax to plastic headlight covers, for extra engage first gear, release the
protection against clouding. Follow the product’s instructions. handbrake and chock all wheels.

40 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics


S While you could carry-out a full valet,
at least vacuum the upholstery and treat
the plastic surfaces to an aerosol cleansing
product that provides a degree of ultra-
violet protection. Experiment if the car
doors can be locked with the bonnet open,
without sounding the alarm.
S As an alternative to removing the
battery, a smart charger prevents voltage
spikes and over-charging, compared with
an old-fashioned trickle charger. Check
your handbook for instructions on where
to connect it; some cars have a separate
negative terminal on the inner wing. The state
of charge should not fall below 12.5 volts.
S Modern petrol doesn’t store well beyond
several weeks; it oxidises and absorbs water.
You may wish to dose a fuel stabiliser into
the tank, which also acts as a dryer. Diesel
suffers from bacterial growth, which causes
sludge to build that clogs the fuel system.
Biocide fuel additives are available, however.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
S Most modern vehicles discharge their lead-
acid batteries gradually. To find out how much
current the electrical system consumes, you
can use a direct-current clamp meter, once
all the car’s ECUs have powered down. You
may have to lock the car and wait for several
minutes to obtain an accurate reading.
S To help slow-down natural ageing of the
rubber and the risk of flat-spots developing,
pump-up your tyres above the normal
specified pressures but never exceed the
maximum values that are stated on the
sidewall. It is an offence to drive the car on
the road with incorrect pressures, so this
must be done at home, not on a forecourt.
S Check that all levels are correct. Be wary
that starting the engine and letting it tick-over
can be more harmful than leaving it in the
short-term. Top-up the battery regularly with
your smart charger, if it is not permanently
connected, Should the car not be used for
more than three months, further long-term
storage preparations will be required.
Total lockdown
PAPERWORK
MOT
X Should the
MOT for a car/
light van expire
after 30th
March, the
government has confirmed that
you will receive a six-month-long
extension from the original expiry
– for now. An end date has not
been set at the time of writing.
The latest advice is here:
gov.uk/guidance/coronavirus-
covid-19-mots-for-cars-vans-
and-motorcycles-due-from-
30-march-2020. Not every
vehicle will qualify, so check-out
the online MOT checker for your
new MOT expiry gov.uk/check-
mot-history. We understand
that not all details will be updated
immediately, so log-on regularly.
Should you continue to use
your car, the extension does not
mean that you should allow its
condition to fall below the legally
required standards. More details
about basic roadworthiness can
be found here. gov.uk/check-
vehicle-safe. We understand that
the DfT is working with insurers
so that your car is still covered but
it will be voided if you allow your
car’s condition to slip.
Insurance and SORN
X Your car must be insured, if it
is not only used but also parked
on the highway. If you are poised
to renew your cover, be wary
that reducing your needs (such
as removing cover for business
mileage while you are in lockdown)
may save money in the short-term
but you could be hit with policy
update fees later. GoCompare told
us that these costs vary between
£28 and £62.
Should you decide to stop your
insurance, a cancellation fee may
be payable – and that’s £58 on
average. Consider also that (for
certain policies) you will lose theft
cover while your car is unused.
Be wary of incurring an £80 fine
by cancelling your insurance
without declaring a Statutory Off
Road Notification (SORN) first.
This is detailed under Continuous
Insurance Enforcement
legislation: gov.uk/vehicle-
insurance/uninsured-vehicles
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 41
BMW E85 & E53 transfer box motor repair

BMW X3 & X5
TRANSFER
BOX MOTOR REPAIR
Transfer box not engaging? Chances are the actuator motor
is faulty and needs repair. Best of all, it’s easy to do and costs
under a tenner. Andrew Everett shows us how it’s done

O
ften you look at an automotive
part and how it has failed FIX IT YOURSELF NOTE
Not all cars are
and you wonder why it was
designed that way. The transfer fitted with a
box actuator on X-Drive BMWs is like motor. Motors
were fitted from
that. A steel worm drive gear operates
October 2003
on a plastic gear and, eventually, the (the same time
steel part wins. A lot of it is failsafe so as the X3 went
that if something needs to ‘give’, it can. into production),
But looking inside this 2006 X3 2.0 so that means all
turbodiesel motor, it’s fairly obvious models of the X3
that Bosch didn’t give it anywhere near and the X5 from
enough grease. So, on diagnostics, this 53-registration
one showed that the motor was working onwards.
– but it had no effect and wasn’t engaging
the transfer box for 4WD.
This is a very common fault on these
X3 (E83) and X5 (E53) cars, now that This is where the actuator is located on the X-Series BMWs. It’s secured by four M8 Torx
they are getting older. Yet it’s a cheap
1 bolts and an electrical connector. There won’t be any oil loss as it comes out. This 2002
and simple fix. BMW themselves sell a BMW X5 3.0d auto doesn’t have one – but they are bolted where the red square is.
repair kit that contains the oil seal plate,
both white and black drive gears and
the annoying circlip seen in photo No.2.
The part number is 27102413711 and it
retails at £70.64.
That’s not bad compared to a new
Bosch motor from BMW, though the
bit that fails costs around £8 including
postage from various eBay and Amazon
sellers – and it’s the bit that actually fails
in 99% of cases.
Not just that, but there are now plenty
of aftermarket new motors on eBay
for £70-£80 or about the cost of the
BMW repair kit give or take a couple of
pounds. However, we can’t vouch for the
reliability of these cheap new motors
and a repair of a genuine Bosch unit may This is the fun bit. Removing the small Using a suitable male Torx driver, undo
2 circlip that secures the support washer 3 the four screws that secure the drive
just be a better idea. Think of Bosch hand
and the plastic gear to the shaft. There are no unit to the actuator body. Do NOT pull the
drills compared to cheap and nasty ones… ‘ears’ to use with regular circlip pliers so it’s unit away from the actuator body just yet
We chanced it with the £8 gear and patience with very small circlip pliers and tiny until you’ve read the next bit… In this photo
effected a full repair in a couple of hours screwdrivers. It’s not hardened steel so it will you can see the Bosch part number and
– sounds like value to us. bend – and will reshape for refitting. manufacture date – January 2006.

42 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 BMW E85 & E53 transfer box motor repair
W Now you can
4 prise the motor away
from the drive unit. It’s
important that you use the
screwdriver here as shown
so that the whole motor
along with the plastic plug
comes away as one unit.
If not, the motor casing
will come off and leave the
motor internals behind –
you must avoid that.

X Now we can
5 dismantle the drive
unit – or gearbox as it’s sometimes called. The pressed steel plate that
holds the oil seal can be bought new from BMW as part of a repair kit – but
you can avoid buying this by careful removal. Start this by using a sharp
knife and penetrating fluid as shown.

W With a bit of time, the plate will

6 start to come loose. Use a small flat-
bladed screwdriver with a thin, sharp end
to carefully prise the plate up and out. You
may bend it a little but it’s mild steel and
so it’s easily straightened. Be very careful
not to mark or damage the oil seal.

X With the oil seal plate removed,

7 we can see the white gear. This just
pulls out with finger pressure. Missing in
this photo is the steel drive worm gear
because it’s part of the removed electric
motor. Also obvious in this photo is the
lack of grease – it doesn’t need much, but
there is very little here.

W For some reason the drive gear is

8 in two parts – the black bit that takes
drive from the electric motor is clipped on
to the white gear that engages with the
gear in the actual transfer box. They are
easily separated with a small screwdriver.
The white gear rarely seems to fail.

X This is the failure point of the old

9 gear. You can see that the plastic
has given up the unequal struggle with
the steel worm gear and the teeth have
virtually melted – possibly due to lack of
lubrication. The replacement black gears
from eBay are often carbon-impregnated
and thus stronger.

Here is our repaired motor, a

11 useful £8 fix. You can smear
some black sealer or Araldite around
the edge of the motor where the steel
seal plate fits in as a belt and braces
measure, to ensure no water can
get in if you go wading. For
road use, the undertray
keeps it dry anyway.

To reassemble, clip the new black gear to the white gear, slide it on to the steel shaft, refit the
10 circlip and then the motor. It’s just 10 minutes’ work. Don’t pack the motor with grease; it’ll get
into the motor. Instead, we just applied a finger of Vaseline into the gears and the oil seal edges.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 43

PHEV vs EREV

EXTENSION CABLES It’s now over a decade since electric cars and their plug-in
equivalents made their first real breakthrough into the market,
but there’s still plenty of confusion over how those that use
combined drivetrains work. Craig Cheetham explains the
difference between a range-extender and a plug-in hybrid.

M
ake no mistake, alternatively
fuelled cars have taken a big
step beyond being a gimmick
that’ll never catch on – a
spectre that has haunted the electric car
ever since the first EV pioneers plugged
their wares over a century ago.
Back then, it was electricity versus
internal combustion in a race to
popularise the car itself, and in the birth
years of motoring the two were seen
as realistic rivals. But as the internal
combustion engine grew in capacity and
number of cylinders, it soon became
apparent that combustible fuels were
by far the most practical option, with
a greater range and more efficiency.
Electric cars were easier to maintain,
but also much more likely to leave their
owners stranded when they ran out of
juice – a fear that in latter years became
Audi A3 e-Tron PHEV
known as ‘range anxiety’ – a phrase
that was allegedly invented by General
Motors and used to great effect to steer
people towards its range-extending Volt.
Indeed, the Volt is widely cited as the
car that saved General Motors. It was
announced for production just before
GM filed for bankruptcy protection after
the global financial crisis and was seen
as proof that the giant company had
a future that involved more than just
cashing in on big trucks.
It’s ironic, then, that the technology
that effectively saved the company is
now seen as a minority option. It was
an idea that seemed almost faultless at
birth: a car that was to all intents and
purposes fully electric, but which had a
secondary power supply should it need
it so you could travel longer distances
if required; a car that would dispel the
‘range anxiety’ that put so many people off
buying an EV in the first place yet offered
them the same emissions-free motoring
and taxation benefits; and an idea that
was, in essence, so much cleverer than the
plug-in hybrids (PHEVs) that followed.
But what’s the difference between the
two, why is PHEV so much more of a
commercial success, and is it really the best
option for the future, with the sale of petrol-
and diesel-only cars set to be outlawed
from the middle of the next decade?
How do they work?
To the uninitiated, a plug-in hybrid
electric vehicle (PHEV) and an extended
range electric vehicle (EREV) appear
to be essentially the same thing. But
while the basic logic is the same – a car
that you can plug in and run on pure
electricity, with an internal combustion
engine to sustain itself when it runs
out of battery power – the way in which
that technology is deployed is different.
And it’s all to do with the way the car
transmits its power to the road.

Why is PHEV so much

more popular?
In a nutshell, it’s much cheaper.
The tax incentives for owners and
manufacturers of both types of
vehicle are broadly similar, but for
manufacturers it’s much simpler to
install a compact electric drivetrain
around existing petrol or diesel
architecture than it is to create a full EV
platform and then install a petrol engine.

44 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics


Range-extender – EREV
X The key difference between a PHEV and an EREV is that
an EREV is an electric car whose petrol or diesel engine
operates not as a source of direct drive to the wheels, but
as a form of onboard generator to ensure the battery that
powers them never becomes fully depleted.
It works in the same way that a full EV works, with electric
motors powering the driven wheels and regenerative
braking feeding kinetic energy back into the car’s power
banks to help sustain the batteries. Most EREVs are also
switchable, meaning that you can choose when to use the
pure electric range via a ‘hold’ button rather than drive it
until it runs out and swaps over automatically – making it
an ideal option for driving in areas where pure electric only
is allowed, or will be in the future.
The first commercially available EREV was the Chevrolet
Volt, revealed in 2008 and launched in production form at
the 2010 Detroit Auto Show as GM’s Great White Hope. It
was followed by a European Volt (sold in small numbers
in the UK) and its sister car, the Vauxhall or Opel Ampera.
The Volt was also sold for a short while in Australia as the
Holden Volt, though in a country where the fuel cost per
gallon is the same as it is per litre in the UK, its appeal was
somewhat limited given the steep purchase price.
After the Volt came the BMW i3, sold as both a pure EV and
a range-extender using almost identical technology to that
offered by GM, the key difference being that by 2013 when
the i3 arrived in the UK, battery technology had advanced
sufficiently to give it a pure electric range of around 20 miles
more than the Volt’s 30 miles, which may not sound much
but is more than adequate for over 75% of commuters.
Indeed, comedian and talk show host Jay Leno covered
over 25,000 miles in his Chevrolet Volt before he had to
put any petrol in it, and even then it was only to use up the
Chevrolet Volt/
Vauxhall Ampera
battery pack
installation
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
PHEV vs EREV
Vauxhall Ampera
fuel to stop it going stale. He was (and remains) one of the
technology’s biggest advocates. Another is Sadiq Khan,
Mayor of London, who has incentivised taxi drivers to
take up the new Coventry-made London Taxi because of
its switchable EV capability, which allows cabbies to drive
to the city in range-extender mode and then turn on the
cab’s electric mode when on duty in the capital.
Its popularity is slowing down in the passenger car
market, though, as manufacturers switch to PHEVs as a
more affordable and simpler alternative, which can be sold
to consumers with a better margin.
Because EREVs are generally more expensive to build
than PHEVs, the technology therefore appears to have more
of an immediate future in the commercial vehicle industry.
TEVVA in Europe and Via in the US are two of the truck
manufacturers that are developing commercial versions of
the technology, while LEVC, the company that makes the
London Taxi, is also due to launch a delivery van later this
year, targeted at operators in and around the capital.
But don’t write EREV off in the car market just yet. As
battery technology constantly improves and more and
more car makers develop EV-specific platforms that don’t
rely on direct-drive from combustion engines, it’s not yet
the EV market’s Betamax. Far from it, in fact.
Chevrolet Volt/Vauxhall Ampera chassis
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 45
PHEV vs EREV

Plug-in Hybrid Vehicle – PHEV

X PHEVs and EREVs started to appear at roughly the
same time, with the Mitsubishi Outlander being the first
commercially successful application of the technology,
followed by the fleet-friendly Audi A3 e-Tron. Since then,
though, the vast majority of manufacturers have jumped
on the bandwagon, as the tax incentives for running
‘alternatively fuelled vehicles’ have made them irresistible to
both fleet buyers and retail customers alike, even though the
government pulled the £5000 EV grant from PHEVs in 2019.
one, do your homework because your driving habits will
They differ from EREVs insofar as the engine has a direct-
dictate how efficient a PHEV will or won’t actually be.
drive connection to the wheels so, when the electric range
That said, there are road tax incentives, especially on
runs out, the car operates as a normal automatic combustion-
those registered before the 2019 WLTP regulations came
engined car. Tax changes in 2020 make them less attractive as
in, because they qualify for free VED.
new cars, but the technology is definitely here to stay.
As with EREVs, battery technology is also improving
Indeed, a PHEV is often less efficient than a normal petrol
all the time, so ranges are getting longer. The latest
or diesel car when operated in such a way because the extra
models travel up to 40 miles on a full charge, which
weight of the EV drivetrain has an impact on fuel economy –
may not sound much but is more than sufficient for
but it all depends on how they’re used.
the average urban commuter.
For example, if you have a short commute then the EV
PHEVs work by having two different means of
range of the car may be sufficient to get you there and back
transmitting power, either to the same or different axles.
(or almost) on electricity alone, and that obviously makes
They generally have a battery connected to an electric
the overall running costs much lower. If you’re looking to buy
motor, with the battery being larger than the one you’d
get in a hybrid such as a Toyota Prius, or a ‘mild hybrid’,
which we’ll come to later.
A PHEV’s battery is charged from the grid, meaning you
need to plug the vehicle into either a regular domestic
socket, which is perfectly functional for slow overnight
charging, or a wall box installed at your house. You can also
charge a PHEV using public charging points.
As a general rule, the electric motor does all the driving
at slower speeds until the battery runs out, but that’s
not a hard and fast rule. For example, if you need to
accelerate hard or climb an incline the negative effect it
has on the battery’s charge status is less efficient than
the internal combustion engine taking over, so it will
automatically take over to preserve the battery’s range.
It’s clever stuff, but it is reliant on a series of ECUs and,
while there have been no notable reliability issues yet,
it’s worth considering how these elements may create
problems in the future.

The BMW i3 is different in that it was
designed from the ground-up to be a pure
electric model, with the range-extender
model joining the range as an option
for those who occasionally needed the
extra range, while the Volt/Ampera and
London Taxi were both planned as EREV
vehicles from the outset.
It’s arguably the better idea, but for
volume production it costs a lot more to
produce. If the volumes were there right
now, EREV would be more viable – but
it’s an expensive technology and that
price ultimately has to be passed on to
consumers. Hence, PHEV is the market-
leading technology by some margin. But
as other manufacturers come on stream
with EREV tech (Taxi manufacturer
LEVC, for example, is owned by Chinese
industrial giant Geely, which also owns
Volvo) EREV cars could well become
more popular in the fullness of time.
Maintenance
and reliability
So far, both EREV and PHEV cars have
shown a good reliability record, but
that’s hardly surprising because they’re
both relatively new to the market.
But as the number of EVs grow, it will
be interesting to see how they hold up as
they rack up the miles.
In reality, it’s likely that PHEV cars
will demonstrate a similar reliability
record to ‘normal’ internal combustion
engines because they use the same basic
technology. The electric components
are general low maintenance and don’t
require servicing, though battery life will
be a big question mark long-term. That
said, most manufacturers guarantee the
battery for a minimum of eight years,
and in practice full EV models such as
the Nissan LEAF have now been on sale
for 10 years without a huge amount of
battery deterioration, which augurs well
for long-term dependability.
EREV cars are likely to be even more
reliable, because the petrol engines fitted
to them rarely run quicker than at a fast
idle, meaning they don’t suffer from
excessive wear. In addition, they tend
to be warm before they’re started up, so
there’s unlikely to be much premature
wear from cold oil and coolant paths.
Indeed, the engine fitted to the Chevrolet
Volt and Ampera is actually blindingly
simple – a Vauxhall 1.4-litre unit as found
in many a Corsa and Astra over the years.
In addition, the electric motors
and drivetrains are low maintenance,
requiring only regular lubrication so, other
than the usual braking and suspension
service items, they have the potential
to offer superb long-term reliability,
though the battery life in service is the

46 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 PHEV vs EREV

Range Rover
PHEV cut-away

As well as when extra power is needed, the internal
combustion engine kicks in if the electric motor is too
cold or too hot, or when features that draw a lot of power
such as the heater or air-conditioning are turned on.
Most also feature regenerative braking, which uses the
kinetic energy from the vehicle’s brakes to feed charge
back to the battery. It’s not a massive return of energy,
but it can add two or three miles to the overall range,
especially if you do a lot of driving in traffic.
It can also be difficult to achieve the claimed fuel-
economy figures for plug-in hybrids, which frequently run
well into three figures. But depending on your driving style,
distances covered and how easily you can top the battery
up in the evening, you may see closer to 30 or 40mpg.
At home, you can use a standard three-pin socket to
charge your PHEV, but this will take several hours. The exact
time depends on the size of your car’s battery. Mitsubishi
estimates a three-pin socket would take around five hours
to top up the battery of an Outlander PHEV, which could well
be all you need if you leave the car to charge overnight. Some
larger batteries take as long as 14 hours.
Wall boxes and fast public chargers are usually far quicker
and you can get a box installed at home for about £500
providing you commit to a specific supplier, while most large
supermarkets and motorway services now offer fast charging,
which can top up to about 70% charge in just 45 minutes. That
may save you a few pennies but with a PHEV it’s never a deal-
breaker; a petrol or diesel engine will never leave you stranded.
PHEVs also shouldn’t be confused with mild hybrids, which
use a self-charging hybrid system, relying on kinetic energy
from the car’s braking system and indeed from its wheel hubs
to feed energy into a small battery, which then powers the
car at low speeds – on congested city streets, for example.
They’re useful insofar as the hybrid system improves overall
fuel economy, but they’re not classed as electric vehicles
because the battery cannot be charged at home.

big question. That said, after 10 years of
use, the vast majority of Chevrolet Volts
in the US are going strong, with no signs
of severe battery depletion.
Should I buy one – and
what should I look for?
The million dollar question is not if
you should buy a PHEV or EREV, but
when should you buy one, because when
conventional petrol and diesel engines
are outlawed in 2035, we’ll all need an
alternative fuel car of some type - at least
when the stocks of internal combustion
cars start to dry up.
Until recently, nearly all PHEVs and
EREVs have been bought new, but there
are now quite a few filtering on to the
used market and – unsurprisingly – they
hold their value very well, so don’t go out
looking for one expecting a bargain.
The key is to analyse your weekly Other than general wear and tear
driving patterns and work out how far checks, you need to ensure that any
you travel, and how much of it could be plug-in vehicle – a PHEV especially –
done on electric only. Then establish has an up-to-date service record, but in
how long it would take you to make a the long-term don’t be put off carrying
cost saving. Access to charging points out the day-to-day maintenance yourself.
is also a major point – one of the key Brakes, suspension and the internal
barriers to EV adoption is that people combustion engine are largely the same
with on-street parking don’t have a as they’ve ever been.
realistic way of owning one
unless there are charging LEVC EREV van on sale late 2020
points provided locally or at
work – something that the
government doesn’t appear
to have thought through
in detail ahead of the
forthcoming new legislation.
But on the plus side, the
electric car infrastructure is
better than it ever has been
and is improving all the time,
and it’s only going one way.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 47

 Dealer’s Diary
Our man in the trade, Steven Ward, has concerns
about Juke engines and the caravan site in Bristol.

The Jukes The auction

of hazzard
X With deliveries of the new Nissan Juke
starting, I thought I would take a look at
how the old model is doing in the block.
My rationale behind this is that dealers
will now be working hard to tempt those
‘early adopters’ into the new design,
meaning there will be plenty of choice in
the coming year of the old model.
Those Mackems really set the SUV
market alight with the Qashqai and then
the Juke. Together they transformed the
Washington plant from a producer of
staid but worthy saloons into a factory
bursting at the seams as it created and
filled two new segments of the SUV
market. Despite Brexit, the plant is still
receiving hefty investment for the next
generation of models.
Twice I was on the Top Gear set where
the Juke featured controversially in the
studio. It really was that trend-setting
(controversial) at the time. Working at
a dealer they appealed to all age groups,
from teens to pensioners. And they were
classless – I know of one customer who
bought one to use alongside his Bentley.
They are genuinely good to drive and
available in petrol and diesel (Renault’s
1.5 dCi engine), in manual and automatic
(again, a Renault transaxle), and in
two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive –
although you really need to look hard to
find a 4wd. All models sold without effort
when new, and there was no dud in the
range when it came to driving them.
I went to look at a couple of petrol 2wd
manual Jukes. One was 11-plate with 61k
miles and four service stamps showing,
the other 14-plated with 28k miles
and three services. Both were entered
from main dealers, both were 1.6 petrol
models (one a DIG-turbo). Both were
highly specified and in good colours.
However, the auction inspection
reports highlighted the 11-plate as
having a ‘noisy engine’ while the 14-plate
had a ‘smoky engine’. So I left it at that –
the risk was too great to warrant further
investigation. Regardless if the prognosis
inspection reports
highlighted the
11-plate as having
a ‘noisy’ engine...
the 14-plate a
‘smoky’ engine.’
is as simple as one having low oil while
the other has too much oil, there simply
isn’t the margin to take the risk these
days. I will add that I know the 1.2
DIG-T engines in the second-generation
Qashqai petrols like a slurp of oil.
Speaking to one of the traders at the
block about this disappointment (and,
in doing so, looking to see if there was a
known issue with the petrol engine), he
didn’t have the experience of them to say
either way. However, what he did say is
that he wouldn’t trust a Juke dCi. Now this
is the complete opposite of my experience.
I guess what I’m trying to say here is
that, if you go for a Juke – and I wouldn’t
blame you – check it carefully and get
a gold-plated warranty. Two dubious
petrol engines in one sale and an old sage
commenting on the diesels being dodgy
is enough to raise my suspicions.

Wry smile
X In response to Ewan Bennett’s letter (CM, March 2020),
I used to play the game of Insignia vs Mondeo while bombing
around the country. Nearly every time the Insignia won. So,
with that in mind, I again went out to see what Mondeos were
doing at the block. I feel I must do this as this breed of car dies
out and I implore you, dear reader, to consider one.
First up was a black Mondeo snatch-back that was
suspiciously ex-minicab, although nothing on the info given
declared this. So, I ignored that. Then I missed a blue 12-plated
Zetec with just 42k (warranted) miles on the clock from a
reputable dealer group.
However, Manheim Washington turned up a real beauty
from Arnold Clark Ford. Locally registered on a 62-plate, this
Titanium X example was finished in metallic brown and looked
terrific. It had covered a steady 74k miles (warranted) with six
Ford service stamps in the book.
Externally the car was faultless and featured genuine mudflaps
all-round, always a good sign. Inside was unmarked and odour-
free. Confirming I was not missing anything, the auction had
given it a Grade 2 for condition, outstanding for the age and
mileage. It came with an unused space-saver and two keys.
I used to play
the game of
Insignia vs
Mondeo while
bombing
around the
country.
Although the tyres were not a premium brand, they varied
in tread between a good 3mm at the front to 6mm at the back.
Equipment was generous with heated half-leather seats, front
and rear parking sensors, DAB radio, heated front screen and
countless other bits of kit.
Powertrain wise, it was the 1.6 EcoBoost with a six-speed
manual gearbox. The MOT had close to seven months left and
a quick check online showed nothing untoward in the MOT
history. Booked Trade at £4250 CAP and £4400 in Glass’s, it
sold outright plumb between the two guides. That gives the
dealer a gross margin of up to £1500, which is a fair day’s work
sourcing such a good car.

48 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Dealer’s Diary

Dirty tricks
X The announcement by Bristol Council
that they’re banning diesel cars in the
city (and I’m not using the term city
centre, because the affected area is
larger than that implies) is a kick in the
teeth for the private motorist.
For years we’ve been bullied into
buying diesel cars, whether we liked
them or not. For those of you who live in
or drive into Bristol and run your own
cars, this will hit you hard financially
and relatively soon. You’ll need to get out
of your diesel and buy a car with spark
ignition – suffering the depreciation and
paying extra on petrol and road tax.
I don’t think it will affect Manheim
car auctions at this location; if there is
I reluctantly sold my V8 Disco for an end-of-line Td5
a dip in demand for diesel vehicles, they the surrounding areas such as Hotwells wasn’t such a knee-jerk reaction then
will simply be sent to other sites thanks and Bedminister is incalculable. market forces would naturally create a
to their IT systems sending specific I reluctantly sold my V8 Disco for balance of petrol/diesel/hybrid – and
vehicles to where they will achieve the an end-of-line Td5 in the middle of electric vehicles as demand increases with
best results. The flip side to this is that the noughties, such was the push to the usability of the various power sources.
petrols that would otherwise go under save money on fuel and road tax. If I As it stands, Spike Island caravan site
the hammer elsewhere in the country bought a petrol 4x4 now, I’d end up on was so centrally situated, our towcar
will be sucked up and sent west. the one hand looking like I sold hard never turned a wheel once we’d arrived
It affects me because I tow my caravan drugs – though I’d actually be skint. because we either walked everywhere or
into Spike Island every year. Here you’ll Nothing gave me greater pleasure than took the shuttle boat.
find a caravan site just by SS Gt Britain rumbling around in that V8. It felt like This year will be the last because the
with 56 pitches that are always booked Thunderbird 2 towing. site is now closing. The only fumes we
13 months in advance – and have been This is the problem when politics ever noticed came from the hippies
since the ’80s. The money that pours into interferes with market forces. If this smoking pot and the buses parked idling.

Honda tappets STOP PRESS

X If fellow CM contributor Andy Everett had asked, I could
have told him that the tappets on CM’s project Civic wouldn’t
need adjusting, despite the miles and lack of history. They
never, ever do. Working in a Rover dealer, it was a well-
established fact that these tappets simply never went out of
tolerance. We’d check them only when a timing belt was due, as
much out of curiosity as scheduled maintenance.
Our experience in the sheer reliability of Honda engines
was borne from maintaining fleet cars, some with 200k on
them. The V6 in the 800 and the full range in the 600 were all
the same. And it wasn’t as if the fitters in the workshop were
X At the time of writing, car auctions are online only, and
all of the trade had ceased buying. Some outlets with the
cash flow to spare and balls of brass were bidding half
book, but only on the most desirable of cars. Furthermore,
the offer was one of ‘now or never’ – you couldn’t sleep on
it. These are strange times we are living in.
unable or unwilling to adjust the tappets as they are these days.
The A-series engine was still very common, while getting a
straight-six SD1 in wasn’t that unusual either (shims!).
The only thing I wouldn’t advise is
re-using the rocket cover gasket; we
rarely got away with that as the rest of
the engine is so oil tight – they would
start to weep when re-used and the
misting, if not leaking, was readily
apparent. Contrast that to a M-series 2.0.

TOP TIP
The Hydragas register
(hydragas.co.uk) was
created by a talented
mechanic who has
appeared in CM a few
times. This will show
you where there are garages equipped to trim
Hydragas suspension, although it is by no
means definitive.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 49

 up!, SE AT Mii, SKODA CITIGO
Used Car Focus: VW

Triple
whammy!
The Volkswagen up!, Skoda Citigo and SEAT Mii
were Volkswagen Group’s three-pronged attack
on the city car market – but almost a decade
on, how do they stack up as used cars?
Craig Cheetham tries them for size.
SEAT Mii

S
mall cars generally mean small
running costs, and Volkswagen
Group’s tiny trio are no
exception, especially when you
factor in their strong residual values.
The Group’s ‘NSF’ models (New
Small Family) were unveiled at the 2011
Frankfurt Motor Show, with the VW
Skoda Citigo up!, SEAT Mii and Skoda Citigo all being
revealed simultaneously, with sales of all
three beginning in December that year.
The models were available in three or
five-door form.
Initially, the trio were offered with
the same powertrain – a 1.0-litre three-
cylinder engine developing either 60PS
or 75PS depending on model. They
were produced, and still are, at the
Volkswagen Bratislava plant in Slovakia,
a former Skoda factory.
The three cars are extremely similar
visually, with the only notable differences
being to the front- and rear-end styling.
The up! features a Volkswagen family
grille, with the Skoda and SEAT both
having more distinctive styling, albeit
arguably less harmonious. The rear
tailgate is made of glass and makes up
almost the entire rear facia of the car.

50 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Used Car Focus Volkswagen up!, SEAT Mii, Skoda Citigo

Manufactured from Running gear

2011-on X Overall, there’s nothing too
scary with the running gear of an
up! or its equivalents. Clutches
are normally good for around
80-90,000 miles if not abused, and
brakes, suspension components
and dampers tend not to need
anything other than routine
maintenance or replacement due
to wear and tear.
Warped discs are very common
because a lot of these cars are
used in congested urban areas and
that takes its toll on brakes, which
are often used quite sharply and at
low speeds, causing uneven wear. A
set of discs from a factor are pretty
cheap, though. The lowest price we
found for OE-spec parts was less
than £100 to do the whole car.
Unlike other models in the
VW range, two-pedal versions of
the up!, Citigo and Mii don’t use
VW’s DSG dual-shift gearbox, but
instead use a system called ASG,
which is effectively a clutchless
version of the five-speed manual
found in manual gearbox models.
It does have a fully automatic
mode, though drivers of traditional
automatics may find it a little jerky
by comparison. That said, it has
a good reliability record and has
so far proven far less problematic
than the DSG transmission found
on larger VW Group models.

Engine choice
X The three-cylinder 1.0-litre units are lively for their capacity
but do tend to get worked quite hard so look for evidence of
excessive smoke, especially on higher-mileage examples.
Don’t be too alarmed if the temperature gauge shoots up
to 90°C within a minute or so of starting the engine. This is
an inherent design feature because the exhaust manifold
is part water-cooled, so the engine reaches full operating
temperature quicker than on most conventional petrol cars.
Also, be aware that the engines don’t like being switched
off soon after starting – modern fuel-injected engines don’t
flood like carburettor-fed engines used to, but it’s quite a
common issue for up!, Citigo and Mii owners to find their cars
reluctant to start again if just driven a few yards – for example, to get them out of the garage, or move out of the way to get
another car off the drive. They will flood like an old-tech engine and the only cure is to keep on cranking with your foot to
the boards until it eventually clears itself out – just like the olden days, eh?
The 12v engine is belt-driven and
there seems to be some confusion
over belt replacement schedule –
Engine specifications
VW Group UK says five years and/or Engine Power MPG 0-60mph Top speed CO2
70,000 miles for a belt change, while 1.0 MPi 60 60PS 56 13.9sec 101mph 101g/km
in mainland Europe the official advice
is 10 years or 160,000km (just under 1.0 MPi ASG Auto 60PS 52 16.2sec 101mph 95g/km
100,000 miles). We’d err on the side 1.0 MPi 75 75PS 55 12.8sec 106mph 106g/km
of caution and renew the water pump 1.0T GTi (VW only) 115PS 48 8.5sec 122mph 110g/km
while you’re at it for peace of mind.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 51

Used Car Focus Volkswagen up!, SEAT Mii, Skoda Citigo

Valuations
X Despite the Volkswagen being perceived as the most upmarket
of the three VW Group brands to offer an NSF model, it’s also the
most prevalent so prices aren’t really more expensive.
The entry-level Skoda Citigo S is probably the cheapest you’ll
find, but only marginally. A 12-plate with around 70k on the clock
can be tracked down for around £2000, with the up! in similar
trim costing around £2200.
The SEAT Mii is the rarest of the three because SEAT put fewer
cars into pre-reg packages with dealers or on to rental fleets. As
such, they’re harder to find but not especially more expensive.
If you’ve got £3500 to spend there’s a lot of choice out there,
and it makes sense to buy on condition and provenance rather
than brand, as there’s precious little to choose between these three. The SEAT appeals to a slightly younger audience and the
Skoda is perhaps the least desirable of the three, but only insofar as there’s still a very small amount of brand snobbery in
the market. It tends to affect the more recent models the most, so if you’re spending more than £4000 you may as well take
advantage of it and track down a smart Citigo Monte Carlo, which is one of the most nicely specced cars in this grouping.
Post-facelift cars are generally still in the main dealer network, with only the very earliest examples coming out of
warranty later this year. As such, they’re priced accordingly and only make sense if you want nearly-new main dealer peace
of mind. If that’s something you’re not fussed about, then spending half the money on a good 2013-2015 car is a far more
sensible approach and will get you a thoroughly decent car for the money.

The VW range was all about names
rather than trim levels, with Take up!,
Move up!, High up!, up! Black and up!
White being the core trim levels, the last
two retail-focused and highly specced.
There’s more: Black Edition, White
Edition, Look up!, up! Beats, Rock up!,
Groove up!, Street up!, Club up! up! Beats
and up! R-Line. We think that’s it!
For Skoda, the trim names were more
traditional – S, SE, SE-L, Elegance and
Sport, the last being renamed ‘Monte
Carlo’ in late 2012 to reflect Skoda’s
rallying exploits.
Meanwhile, the SEAT Mii range was
more conservative. S, SE, i-Tech, Sport
and Ecomotive were the main trim levels.
Special editions were offered across
all three. For SEAT, there was the
race-inspired TOCA, while the Mii by
Cosmopolitan and the Mii by Mango
were unashamedly focused at fashion-
conscious female buyers.
Skoda, meanwhile, offered the low-
emission GreenTech, Colour Edition,
and the stylish Black Edition.
In 2014, Volkswagen produced the e-up!,
which wasn’t targeted at Yorkshiremen
as its name suggested, but was the first
electric model, initially offered on a trial
basis in limited numbers only. But from
2017 the e-up!, along with EV variants of
the Citigo and Mii, became integral parts
of each manufacturer’s model range,
with VW Group saying that in future
electricity would be the only powertrain
for its next generation of city cars.
In 2017, all three models were given
a mid-cycle facelift, with a vastly
improved cabin and new infotainment
systems that incorporated Apple
CarPlay and Android Auto, along
with automatic emergency braking as
standard – a first for the city car sector.
In 2018, Volkswagen revealed the up!
GTI, which brought the famous badge
to the company’s smallest car. The GTI
uses the same three-cylinder engine as
its range mates, but fitted with a high-
pressure turbo to increase its power
output to 115PS – more than enough in
such a diminutive model.
The up! and its siblings remained
strong sellers well into 2020, with an all-
EV replacement rumoured to be in the
wings for the summer of 2022.
All three were awarded the best
five-star Euro NCAP crash safety rating
for both collision performance and
pedestrian protection – an impressive
result for such a small car. All have
sold strongly and remain popular used
choices, but as the first examples start
to get older and the owner profile
less diligent where maintenance is
concerned there are a couple of things
to watch out.
Here’s what you need to know to keep
up! with the Joneses.
Bodywork
The up! and its siblings feel like high-
quality, well-made cars but there are a few
areas for concern around the older models.
All of the three come with a 12-year
anti-corrosion warranty that covers
against ‘perforation’ where a car hasn’t
sustained external damage, though how
this is covered is open to interpretation.
One thing that’s definite, though, is
that there have been quite a few cases
reported of rust bubbles appearing
around the petrol filler flap.

Citigo Sport

52 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Used Car Focus Volkswagen up!, SEAT Mii, Skoda Citigo

ASG gearbox Interior

It’s a known issue and, while most
dealers will honour a repair, we very
much doubt that this involves cutting out
the affected rear quarter and replacing
with fresh metal, so don’t expect a fix
to be anything more than a tidy-up and
blow over. It’s well worth examining any
car closely for signs of a previous repair;
and if you can get a digital micrometer
check the thickness of the paint in this
area. If it’s thicker than normal then a fix
has been carried out.
There are no other reported instances
of corrosion but there are other niggles
to be aware of, notably door handles that
pack-up and jam from the outside. The
problem occurs when a locknut pops off
the internal cable and a repair isn’t too
onerous, though it does involve stripping
the inside of the door to get to the area.
Other minor niggles include rear lamp
lenses misting up due to water ingress and
faulty rear washer jets, where the non-
return valve in the washer system packs
up and allows the washer to continue to
dribble water out of the washer nozzle.
Hardly a major problem, though!
Also, cars made in 2016 and fitted with
a panoramic glass roof were recalled
because a number of them were finished
with poor bonding between the glass and
the roof panel. It’s worth checking with
your local dealer if your car is subject to
the recall and, if not, check it for signs
of rattling or water leaks – which could
mean the problem is still apparent.
All models have hard-wearing cloth
interiors and even high-milers tend to look
smart, with no splits in the side bolsters
or seat cushions. A common failure,
though, is the seat height adjustment
mechanism. Where a car is often used
by more than one driver with a different
driving position, the ratchet mechanism
in the height-adjustment gear can wear,
meaning the seat won’t stay in position.
It’s a known issue and the manufacturer
will reportedly mend it for free, but it
hasn’t yet been the cause of a recall.
There was a recall issued in 2013 for
cars built in the first half of the year, the
reason being a faulty airbag sensor that
may not detect a fault if the SRS system
isn’t working properly. It only affects
cars built in the first six months of that
particular year.
A recall was also issued on five-door
models built between November 2015
and April 2016 due to a fault with the
child safety locks not engaging on the
rear passenger doors.
Finally, a random one. Several owners
have reported a faint ‘buzzing’ noise from
inside the cabin – the source is unknown.
Suggestions are wear to the glovebox
latch or the gearlever trim surround.
The Street up!

Verdict
X Small cars are never difficult to sell, so chances are
there’ll be quite a few people looking at any potential
purchase on offer. As a result, you’ll need to move quickly,
but don’t be tempted to overspend – there’s still a good
supply of cars coming on to the market. These are some of
the UK’s most popular city cars and it won’t be long until
another one comes along in your price bracket.
What you get for your money is not only a seemingly
robust little car with few reported problems (and barely
any of them major), but also one that feels like much more
than the sum of its parts. Admittedly, they may not be the
fastest or most technologically advanced small cars on the
market (electric models aside; and we’ve left them out of
this review on the basis they’re extremely rare on the used
market due to their newness and so far haven’t sprung any
notable problems at all), but they’re a lot more spacious
and practical than their diminutive dimensions suggest,
and surprisingly refined and comfortable on a run.
If you’re looking for a small car to use as a commuter car
or something for the younger members of your family, you
could do a lot worse. All three of these are superb used cars
and we can’t recommend them highly enough.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 53

 Survival Guide
Ian Cushway searches out new and used parts prices
Mazda MX-5
Fun, affordable and virtually unbreakable –
so what’s not to like about the Mk3 MX-5?
W
hile the first two generations
of MX-5 were closely related,
the Mk3 from 2005 was a
bold departure and, dare
we say, just a bit more grown up. Don’t
take that as a negative, it’s still one of the
most fun two-seaters you can buy – it’s
got huge club and specialist support, and
early ones are now temptingly cheap.
The most notable change was the use
of ‘MZR’ Ford Duratec-derived 125bhp
1.8- and 160bhp 2.0-litre petrol engines
that allowed the open-topped gem to
accelerate from 0-60mph in 9.6 and 7.6
seconds respectively. Oh, and it also got
a brand-new multi-link rear suspension
that further refined the MX-5’s lovable
go-kart like handling.
Other NC mod-cons included stability
control, optional keyless-entry and the
benefit of a limited-slip differential on
2.0 manual models.
A year after launch, Mazda added
the Roadster Coupé (RC) with its neat
two-piece folding hardtop that cleverly
Engines
Engines are tough and bulletproof so
problems are rare. Apart from peak
power being reached at higher revs on the
NC2 and 3, powerplants remained largely
untouched during the car’s lifespan. Both
1.8 and 2.0-litre engines are Ford-derived, cam-driven and virtually bulletproof.
54 Car Mechanics p May 2020
retracts – electrically – into the same
space as the soft-top without eating into
the luggage area. It’s a popular choice
for those doing longer journeys, or who
want a year-round daily driver.
Distinguishable by its bigger headlights
and larger grille, the Mk3.5 (or NC2)
followed in 2009 with revised suspension
geometry, a revvier version of the 2.0-litre
with a forged crank, a throatier exhaust
note and a new six-speed transmission.
Then, a final revision resulted in
the NC3 (or Mk3.75), which went on
sale in 2013. Again, apart from minor
mods to improve throttle response and
pedestrian collision features for the
front-end, the changes were largely
visual; different headlamps, an even
larger and deeper grille, and a new chin
spoiler to aid aerodynamics.
Now, we all know about Mazda
reliability and this era MX-5 is exemplary
in that respect. That said, as we show,
you’ll save cash by shopping around at
one of the many independents for parts.
had a timing chain, so as long as oil and
filter change regimes have been adhered
to (every 12,500 miles/annually) there
shouldn’t be any issues. Incidentally, it’s
due a major service at 72,500 miles that
includes fitting new plugs, so ensure it’s
been done, if necessary.
Engine component prices
OIL FILTER
Main dealer £12.55
Independent from £7.79
SPARK PLUGS (FOUR)
Main dealer £99.65
Independent from £51.96
CLUTCH KIT
Main dealer £312.79
Competition kit £345 (Moss Europe)
While the 1.8 was only available with
a five-speed manual transmission, the
2.0 came with either a six-speed manual
or a less popular paddleshift automatic
– apart from being a bit tight from cold,
they’re all reliable.
Suspension/steering
There’s double (alloy) wishbones,
coilovers and an anti-roll bar at the
front, and a five-link arrangement with
coilovers at the rear. The Mk3 rides
quite high from the factory; and while
Sport models had uprated Bilstein
dampers and a strut brace to add rigidity,
lots of owners fit lowering springs and
aftermarket dampers when the originals
start feeling a little soggy. There’s lots
of choice, with a 25-35mm drop being a
popular option. And here’s a useful tip;
beefier anti-roll bars from the Mazda
RX-8 are a straight swap.
Other than normal wear, it’s usually the
anti-roll bar droplinks that knock first.
There are no real issues – although being
sensitive to suspension geometry, if there’s
uneven tyre wear get a four-wheel laser
alignment check to find out what’s wrong.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 Survival Guide Mazda MX-5 NC

If you’re in the market for a Mk3, avoid buying from an

USEFUL CONTACTS

TOP
TIP
owner who’s spent every weekend at the track, and cars
that have been ‘messed with’ (such as forced-induction, Euro Car Parts 020 8956 5000
poor remapping). Apart from mild lowering and a few choice eurocarparts.com
upgrades it’s a car that’s best enjoyed as the factory intended.
IL Motorsport ilmotorsport.de
Moss Europe 020 8867 2020
moss-europe.co.uk
MX5 City 01709 863 555
mx5city.com
MX5 Heaven 01305 268149
mx5heaven.co.uk
MX5 Parts 02392 644588
mx5parts.co.uk
SmartTOP 01277 283443
smarttop.shop

Brake component prices

FRONT BRAKE DISCS (PAIR)
Main dealer £163.46
Independent from £83.99
EBC Turbo Groove £178.94 (mx5parts)
FRONT BRAKE PAD SET
Main dealer £132.11
Independent from £43.99
Green Stuff uprated (Moss Europe)
from £75.80

Suspension
component prices
FRONT DROPLINKS
Main dealer £70.64 (r), £57.92 (l)
Independent from £15
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (EACH)
Main dealer £173.93 (£310.88
Bilstein), independent from £143.99
SUSPENSION UPGRADES
Meister R coilovers £799
(Moss Europe)
Front strut brace (IL Motorsport,
Moss Europe) from £244.70
SuperPro Polybush kits from £650
(Moss Europe)
Eibach 35mm lowering springs
from £163.21 (mx5parts)
Brakes
You’ll find 290mm vented discs up front
and 280mm solid discs at the rear on the
MX-5, a configuration that remained the
same throughout its lifespan. While they
will haul the car up perfectly well under
normal road use, if you want to improve
the stoppers there are lots of aftermarket
options, the cheapest starting point
being to fit a set of uprated pads.
Other issues
Don’t scrimp when it comes to tyre choice
because it’ll compromise the MX-5’s
leech-like grip. Toyo T1Rs and Nankang
NS-2Rs are the most popular options.
Hood fabrics last well, and the fact
that there’s a heated glass rear screen
is a bonus. However, try not to close the
roof in freezing conditions, because the
fabric will suffer. Damp carpets point
to blocked hood drains; MX5 Heaven Cabins became better equipped over time.
This is the Graphite limited edition.
sell them secondhand for £18. That
electric hood on the RC should retract
in 12 seconds, and it seems problem- Other component prices
free. Some owners have reported that
PERFORMANCE EXHAUST
the bolts for the motor can occasionally Cobalt dual-exit stainless rear
come lose, so check them regularly. Oh, silencer from £283.70 (Moss Europe)
and fitting a smartTOP module is a good
HOOD COVER
idea; it’s £222.30 from smarttop.shop
Main dealer £1133
and allows you to lower and raise the Independent from £395.29
roof while moving at slow speeds. (Moss Europe)
Finally, a common gripe, if you can call Black mohair £354 (MX5 City)
it that, is the lack of audible soundtrack
from that lively MX-5 engine. The drones or proves annoying at motorway
obvious solution is to fit an aftermarket speeds. If that’s the only moan, then
system, although talk to specialists and that’s a pretty good omen!
other owners to avoid buying one that

Roadster Coupé with its Mazda MX-5 NC

folding hard-top weighs a bit 2005-2015
more but is a popular choice.
1.8 2.0
Engine (cc) 1798 1999
Power (bhp) 124 157
0-60mph (sec) 9.6 7.6
Top speed (mph) 121 130
Average fuel (mpg) 39 34

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 55

Back to Basics: GEARBOX, DIFF & TRANSFER BOX OILS

Transmission oil
Rob Hawkins outlines the typical procedures for renewing the
oil inside a vehicle’s gearbox, differential and transfer box.

T
he oil inside components
including the gearbox,
differential (if separate from the
gearbox) and even the transfer
box on all-wheel-drive vehicles should
have its level inspected during routine
servicing and may also need changing,
along with any filters. Although some are
supposedly sealed-for-life, changing the
oil is beneficial in helping to extend the
life of the components inside.
The procedures for checking oil
levels, draining and refilling are often
not particularly complex, but can be
awkward with limited space to feed a
squeezy bottle into position (unless you
have a pump). Changing the oil on an
automatic gearbox is perhaps the most
involved, often requiring the sump pan
to be dropped down to change a filter.
There are two general snippets of
advice that are worth remembering
when dealing with any of these jobs.
The first is to know what oil is required
and how much. Most oil specialists
will list the recommended oils on their
website. The second is to be confident
that you can refill the oil before you
drain it, so first make the refill plug can
be undone and accessed.
The following pages deal with several
topics, ranging from checking oil levels
to renewing the oil.

CHECKING & TOPPING-UP OIL LEVEL

W The casings of most
1 differentials have an inspection
plug, which can be prised off or undone
to check whether there’s sufficient oil
inside. Usually, the oil level needs to be
just below the inspection hole.
X Some gearboxes have
2 a similar inspection plug to
a differential. Do not confuse this
with the drain plug, which is always
at a lower point. If the oil level needs
topping-up, there may be room to use
a squeezy bottle to force oil inside.
W Some gearboxes, especially
3 autos, have a dipstick for
checking the oil level. It may be
necessary to run the engine up to
temperature and work through the
gears while leaving the engine running
– then with the autobox selected to
Park (P), check the oil level.

X Topping-up the oil in

4 a gearbox with a dipstick may
be possible via the dipstick tube. The
oil might need to be pumped in, or a
squeezy bottle could be sufficient if
you don’t have a suitable pump.

TRANSFER BOX OILS

The transfer box on all-wheel-drive vehicles contains oil that may need topping-up and renewing. Just like a differential, look for a drain
plug and also a refill/inspection plug. The procedures are often the same as those outlined for a diff.

56 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Back to Basics: GEARBOX, DIFF & TRANSFER BOX OILS

DIFFERENTIAL: OIL RENEWAL

REFILL PLUG

DRAIN PLUG

Before attempting to renew the oil
1 3
inside a differential, locate the drain
and refill/inspection plugs and make sure
they can both be undone – there’s no point
draining the oil if you can’t undo the refill
plug and thus top the oil up again.
2 When you’re ready to drain the oil
from the diff, place a drain container
underneath, then release the drain plug,
followed by the filler plug to help allow the air
to flow through and speed up the flow of oil.
Some diffs may only have a single
refill/inspection plug, in which case,
the oil will need to be sucked out before
it can be refilled with fresh oil. Use a
suitable pump to extract the old oil from
inside the diff.

The rear diff casing on this Jeep
4 6
Cherokee has a refill/inspection
plug, but no drain plug. Instead, the back
of the diff casing can be undone to drain
the oil, or it can be sucked out via the
refill/inspection plug.
5 Clean all the plugs that have been
removed, renew any copper washers,
then refit the drain plug and tighten it to the
recommended torque setting. Clean around
the casing where the drain plug is fitted.
Use a squeezy bottle or a pump to
refill the diff with a recommended oil
via the refill/inspection hole. Top-up until
the oil level is just below this hole (dip
a finger inside to check). Refit the plug and
tighten to the recommended torque setting.

HALDEX OIL & FILTER RENEWAL

A special oil for the Haldex is

The oil inside the Haldex four-wheel-
1 drive system on the rear of an Audi
TT should be renewed every 20,000 miles.
Start by draining the oil from it by undoing
its 5mm Allen key drain plug.
The oil filter for the Haldex should be
2 renewed every 40,000 miles. A special
spanner is required to remove the filter on
the side of the Haldex. The filter is inside
a plastic housing. Space is tight to access it.
3 available in what looks like a tube of
sealant. There is a filler hole in the side of
the diff, but it may be easier to force-feed
the oil through the drain hole. The tube
contains 275ml, and the Haldex needs
around 260ml, so a little oil can be lost.

MANUAL GEARBOX: OIL RENEWAL

1 Most manual ’boxes have a drain and a separate refill/inspection
plug. Make sure both can be undone before proceeding, then
remove both plugs and allow the old oil to drain into a container.
Once the old oil has drained, refit the drain plug and tighten to
2
the recommended torque setting. Use a squeezy bottle or pump
to feed fresh oil into the filler hole. In most cases, top-up until the oil
level is just below the refill/inspection hole. Refit and tighten the plug.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 57

Back to Basics: GEARBOX, DIFF & TRANSFER BOX OILS
ZF AUTO: OIL & FILTER RENEWAL
1 Check the means of refilling the oil
(fluid) – if it’s via a filler/inspection
plug, make sure you can undo it. There’s no
point in draining the oil if you can’t refill it,
and on some ZF autoboxes, this is common.
More oil will leak out of the sump pan
4 when released, so ensure your drain
container is large enough, or place extra
drain containers around it. When removing
the pan, avoid catching any electrical
components on the inside of the gearbox.
Some sump pans incorporate a new
7 filter, so there is nothing else to
remove, only the new sump pan to fit, in
which case, a new gasket may be required
before fitting it to the base of the gearbox.
New mounting bolts may also be required.
If the old sump pan can be refitted,
10 position a new gasket on its mating
surface, check all the mounting holes
line up, then refit it onto the base of the
gearbox. Refit all of the mounting bolts, but
do not begin tightening any of them until
all of the bolts have been refitted by hand.
58 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
2 With a drain container positioned
underneath the gearbox’s sump, undo
the drain plug and leave the oil to drain for
several minutes. There may be a lot of oil.
Some autoboxes hold around 10 litres.
Drain any leftover oil from the pan and
5 remove its gasket. If the sump pan is
being re-used, there may be four magnets in
the base, which collect metal filings from the
gearbox’s clutches. Clean each one and clean
inside the pan with a cloth and brake cleaner.
If the old filter is still attached to
8 the gearbox, remove it by undoing
its mounting bolts. Check the new filter is
the same. If it doesn’t have an O-ring fitted
around its outlet, transfer the one from the
old filter and add a smear of fresh oil.
Refill the gearbox with the
11 recommended oil via the refill/
inspection plug. In most cases, top-up until
oil starts to leak out – though it’s important
to check your workshop manual first. Then
refit the refill/inspection plug.
The oil sump pan usually has to
3
be dropped down to change the
oil filter, so progressively undo all of its
fittings. There are usually a series of Torx
bolts, which may be seized and their heads
can often round-off.
Clean the base of the gearbox where
6 the pan fits. If any traces of gasket
remain, remove them with a scraper or
screwdriver. A good seal is essential on
the base of the gearbox, so the mating
surface for the pan needs to be clean.
If the filter is separate to the sump
9 pan, fit the new one to the base
of the gearbox with its original fittings.
Tighten them to the recommended torque
setting, which may be a small amount.
Run the engine for several minutes,
12 then work through the gears, but do
not drive the vehicle. Leave it running with
Park selected, then recheck the level and
top-up if required – check your workshop
manual for the recommended procedure.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
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 Tea Break Relax with a cuppa, while we reflect on
how car parts have evolved over time

Petrol Emissions
Systems
Rob Marshall investigates
how emissions reduction has
grown from an afterthought
to being central to modern
engine development.
The catalytic converter

D
espite the spark-ignition
engine’s tremendous power,
its harmful emissions were
not so much of a problem
when cars were relatively rare sightings
but subsequent legislation has led to
emissions being at the forefront of
automotive development. This goes some
way towards explaining why many car
manufacturers integrate anti-pollution
systems into their cars that are at odds
with the practical motorist’s preference
for longevity and low running costs.
Across the pond
With many of its residents owning motor
cars since the 1940s, Los Angeles started
to see the effects of motor car pollution
earlier than most areas. Its location,
nestled within a ‘bowl’ in the Californian
mountains, ensured that the pollution
could not dissipate, causing smog to
build and earning LA the undesirable
nickname, ‘Smell-A’. Yet, a firm link had
become established between pollution
and the motor car, resulting in the state
of California enacting legislation that
has played a huge part
in reducing poisonous
vehicle exhaust emissions,
– despite increasing
the output of CO2, the
infamous greenhouse gas.
curtailed HC, CO and NOx emissions
from vehicle tailpipes. This move spread
throughout the whole of North America,
prior to arriving in Europe.
Exhaust-fitted after-treatment
technologies started to appear, which
ranged from air injection pumps that
lowered hydrocarbons and carbon
monoxide gases, to exhaust gas
recirculation (EGR) systems that reduced
in-cylinder combustion temperatures,
which has a direct influence on nitrogen
oxides (NOx) production.
A significant change came with
the arrival of the three-way catalytic
converter, which employs precious
metals to convert poisonous gases

Linear solenoid drive/double Intake manifold

valve type EGR valve
Exhaust gas inlet
Exhaust manifold

Flat tube waved inner

fin type EGR cooler
EGR port formed
in cylinderhead
The three-way catalytic converter, regulated EGR cooler by-pass valve
by the lambda sensor, was “the most
significant breakthrough ever made in
the control of vehicle exhaust emissions”, Vacuum actuator
according to Tom Quinn, chairman of
the California Air Resources Board. The
system was fitted first to the 1976 Federal-
specification Volvo 242/244/245. Pictured Exhaust gas recirculation valves replace oxygen with spent exhaust gas, to lower cylinder
is Stephen Wallman, inventor of the lambda temperatures and reduce NOx formation. Cooled EGR utilises the engine cooling system
sensor, made by Bosch Automotive. to reduce exhaust gas temperatures before they enter the inlet.

60 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics


GDI engines for cars evolved from direct-
injection diesel technology, by relying
on high-pressure fuel injection and the
repositioning the fuel injector into the
combustion chamber to reduce certain
emissions and increase efficiency.
into mainly carbon dioxide and water.
Its optimum operation relies not only
on working temperatures of between
350 and 450°C but also an exact fuel/
air mixture. This was achieved by
accurate electronic engine-management
controlled fuel injection, plus the
introduction of the lambda h (or
oxygen) sensor. This small but critical
component detects the oxygen content
of the exhaust gases and sends a signal to
the engine management system to adjust
the fuel/air mixture.
An optimum fuel/air mixture of 14.7:1
is shown on the MOT petrol emissions
test as h 1. Less than 1 indicates a rich fuel
ratio; over 1 shows a weak mixture. As
the catalytic converter can be damaged
severely by imbalanced mixtures, a
car can fail its emissions test on the
calculated lambda figure, even when
hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide
measurements are within range.
Engine development
The majority of recent engine changes
have sought to improve power and
torque flexibility, while reducing fuel
consumption and emissions. In many
cases, fuel economy has been sacrificed
in the name of reducing pollution.
An obvious early example of this
involved many American cars of the
1960s and ’70s. Despite producing little
power for their displacement and being
incredibly fuel-inefficient, the strategy
reduced toxic emissions significantly but
appalling fuel consumption remained
a concern, despite some interesting
technologies debuting, such as GM’s
ill-fated cylinder shut-off V-8-6-4
‘variable displacement’ engine that was
fitted briefly to a number of Cadillacs
from 1981. The technology was dropped
quickly, due mainly to reliability, only to
find favour again several decades later
with other manufacturers.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
Tea Break Petrol Emissions Systems
GDI engines produce between 1000 and 2000 times the number of particulates than the older
port-injection engines. Within the past two years, a number of manufacturers have fitted
gasoline particulate filters (GPFs) to their cars. Pictured is a Volkswagen system, where the
gases flow into a catalysed GPF, prior to passing through a three-way catalyst.
A new generation of low-capacity but
highly-tuned GDI engines has not been
entirely successful in reducing real-world
emissions and some of them have proven
not to be very reliable – a sign of their more
stressed nature, perhaps? Pictured is Ford’s
1.0-litre EcoBoost ‘Fox’ engine.
‘Lean-burn’ engines operated with
fuel/air ratios as weak as 22:1, with
Honda being a notable pioneer with its
CVCC (Compound Vortex Controlled
Combustion) technology, the emissions
of which were low enough to satisfy
Federal anti-pollution legislation in
the 1970s, without requiring a catalytic
converter, although Honda succumbed
and introduced catalysers to its North
American models by the mid-1980s.
In Europe, Type Approval rules
aimed to reduce emissions, starting
with emissions-controlled carburettors,
through to the ‘Euro’ emissions standards
that commenced in the early 1990s.
Engine design has refined continually
since, from overhead camshafts to variable
valve timing, and much more, to boost
fuel efficiency, while complying with ever
more stringent anti-pollution legislation.
The most significant recent change
has been the arrival of direct-injection
petrol engines (GDI), which locate the
fuel injector directly inside the cylinder,
instead of behind the inlet valve, as per
the old ‘port’ multipoint injection designs.
The first productionised, affordable GDI
cars available in the UK were Dutch-
built 1.8-litre Mitsubishi Carismas. Its
4G93 engine was also used in some Volvo
S40/V40 models that shared production
lines at the Born factory.
Since then, GDI has become almost
universal in modern petrol cars.
Downsizing and down-speeding are the
latest trends, which reduce total cylinder
capacity and ensure increased torque
from lower RPM. GDI engines have
become more complicated and reliant on
extra systems, such as turbos and dual-
mass flywheels, to meet their designers’
aims and gain consumer acceptance.
Since ‘Dieselgate’ and the subsequent
introduction of RDE (Real Driving
Emissions) tests, an embarrassing
finding is that, while these powerful and
sophisticated small engines may give
good results in laboratory tests, their real-
world figures are not so satisfactory. The
Volkswagen Group, for example, has stated
openly that the trend has reached its peak.
It seems, therefore, that we shall be going
‘back to the future’ with petrol engines,
where larger capacity, detuned units are
likely to be at the forefront of development
(again!), coupled with hybrid drivetrains.
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 61
 Your letters should
be addressed to

Your Letters Martyn Knowles,

Car Mechanics,
Bauer Media, Media House,
Lynchwood,
Peterborough PE2 6EA
Email: martyn.knowles@
bauermedia.co.uk
UNIMPRESSED BY Please include a postal

OUR Mk3 FOCUS address with letters

X I have no experience of the original Focus.
At the time it came out we had a Rover 200
(R8) and would probably have got another
Rover if the company had continued.
However, times change and in 2013 my
wife bought a 2011 Mk3 Focus 1.6 Ti-VCT. Our
daughter had previously bought a C-MAX based
on the Mk2 Focus and was very satisfied with
it. While what follows may seem like treason to
some, the reality was that I didn’t think much
of the Mk3 and wonder if Ford had lost the plot
a bit, producing a car that was a triumph of
design over engineering.
The first issue was that, for such a big car,
the rear passenger space and luggage space
was very poor. It was an inverted Tardis, big
outside and small inside. Comparison with a
Mk2 indicated that the earlier car was certainly
better in that respect.
The car was much too high geared, meaning
that hill starts were brutal and climbing the
steep ramp to the car deck of the Belfast to
Liverpool ferry (which we do several times
a year) was unnecessarily stressful. Fourth gear
is too high for comfortable town driving and 5th
gear was in practice only used on motorways.
At least the little light telling me to always
change up at unrealistically low speeds told me
what gear I was actually in!
In addition, throttle response was dreadfully
slow, much slower than my daughter’s C-MAX.
I suppose the thing was optimised for fuel
saving – but you can buy a lot of petrol for the
cost of a clutch or a set of big ends. Incidentally,
it was the only car ever in our family where
I have no idea what the fuel consumption was.
With regard to driver visibility, all I can say is
that I thought my 1956 Morris Oxford had blind
spots until I tried this thing. We got rear sensors
fitted by the Ford dealer and a good job, too.
The radio/CD player often had to be turned
off at night, because the dozens of panel lights
were such a distraction. Pity, because it was
actually quite a good sound system.
One feature common to all modern Fords,
submitted by email.
SMART
DRIVING
X Electric vehicles (EVs) are
too quick for the city and too
slow for the motorways.
without any option it seems, is the heated
Let me explain… I have had
front windscreen. The result is that low sun or
my EV for two years now and
approaching headlamps cause much the same
I feel you have to live with
effect as a scratched screen, with light being
an electric vehicle to fully
reflected off the tiny element wires, and the
understand the pros and cons.
thing never seems to look clean in any light.
As you get instant torque
At my age, I need all the unfettered vision I can
from the electric motor, this
get. It wasn’t even a particularly good de-icer...
makes for a very impressive,
The controls were over-servoed and too light,
nippy vehicle in city
but I am told that’s the way with modern cars –
environments, which can take
live with it or drive a classic. That is perhaps open
other road users by surprise.
to interpretation; my daily driver is a basic 2000
This brings me onto another
Fiesta 1300cc that feels about right, control-wise.
part of my thoughts about
Sadly, a year ago the Focus was written-off when
EV’s – looking 20 to 30 years
we were rammed amidships by an uninsured
in the future, all vehicles are
pick-up in Sherwood Forest, the Nottinghamshire
going to have to have limiters
Police finding it all too difficult to charge the
fitted possibly to 40mph as
other driver, which was disappointing to say the
soon as you hit a city
least. As a result, my wife bought a Mk3 C-MAX
boundary. I’m sure I read just
1.6 Ti-VCT, which is a much better proposition
recently that all cars from
and far more practical, if nothing like as pretty!
2022 are to be fitted with
The gear ratios are sensible and it really has got
limiters from standard, so this
decent boot space. Even the radio (we ended up
would sort out this problem
with the same type) has dimmer lighting that is
for the future.
less of a distraction.
But on the motorway, you
Mind you, we still have to live with a
end up keeping your speed
windscreen that never looks clean, and brakes
down to increase your range.
and steering that are too light!
I have probably the smallest
David Garrett
EV you can buy, a smart
forfour, which has a smaller
Martyn Knowles responds: Thanks David for
capacity battery than the
enlightening us about your Focus Mk3 driving
newer ones coming out now.
experience. Two power outputs for the 1.6
My smart can still do 85mph
Ti-VCT were offered by Ford – 105PS and
on motorways (illegal
125PS. Maybe your daughter’s C-MAX has the
anyway), but it eats power at
higher power output, which would explain the
this speed, so I tend to set the
driveability difference.
cruise control at 60mph.
This allows for better range

FRUGAL FRIEND and it’s probably what other

EV drivers will do in the future
X I drive a Mk1 Focus Edge 1.6, registered June 2004. It’s a reliable and enjoyable car to drive and, – which you could argue will
being a run-out model, it comes with all mod-cons including air-con and heated front screen. It was make for safer driving.
purchased new by my son and came to me in 2010. I have carried out all the maintenance from new, Speed is the biggest killer of
including the yearly coat of Waxoyl. range, followed very closely by
It has covered 133,000 miles and I’ve been very pleased with the car; it’s a world apart from the using the heater. In third place
Mk1 Escort my brother owned in the late 70s. The downside is that it’s a 3-door hatch and, to quote is using the aircon, although
a Ford salesman, “the youngsters like the 3-door as it looks sportier than the 5-door”. Plus, it cost this is not so bad.
£1000 less when new. It covered a higher annual mileage in its six years with my son and an easier When you do finally
6000 a year with my retired self. With sensible driving I achieve 45+ mpg. purchase an EV for the first
Knowing the service history is invaluable. Failed parts have been the water pump, coil, clutch master time, you will probably do the
cylinder, thermostat housing seal and reverse light switch. The bodywork is good, as is the underside, same as me, having fun with
although the rear subframe has surface rust that has been rubbed down, treated and waxed. the instant torque and zooming
I’m impressed with how clean the exhaust has always been, reflected in the low emissions results along on the motorway. And
at MOT tests. It still has the original exhaust. Like my clothes, I keep cars to an old age, in excess of once you get over this, you will
20 years for cars, and plan to do so with this Focus. still love your EV.
Barry Ross Andrew Dunn

62 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 STAR
WHEEZING VOLVO FIX LETTER
X In the past few months the power steering in
my wife’s 2010 Volvo XC90 3.2 AWD had become
progressively noisier, and I was worried that
I would have to shell out for a new power steering
pump. Adopting the “change the cheapest part
first” approach, I thought I’d try replacing the
fluid first. It was when I removed the cap from the
reservoir with the engine running I realised that
this was where most of the noise was coming from!

STAR
I used a vacuum pump to empty the reservoir
and noticed that it made a loud wheezing noise while the reservoir refilled slowly. This made
me realise that the filter at the bottom of the reservoir was probably blocked.
I obtained a new reservoir (£30 from Amazon) and then proceeded as follows:
X Use a hand-held vacuum pump such as a Mityvac to empty the reservoir.
LETTER
The reader awarded the
X Remove reservoir bracket and undo the air intake hose clamp to improve access. STAR letter will receive
X Remove reservoir: the outer return hose has a spring clip, best removed with slip-joint pliers. a SEALEY LED318R lamp
The inner feed hose has a coupling with a thumb-operated button. This may need a bit of a X Features stepless dimmer
wiggle but to avoid damage do this by hand not with pliers. switch for both the main COB
X Use vacuum pump to pull as much dirty fluid as possible from the return hose. and the LED torch.
X Fit new reservoir and fill with fresh fluid. X Featuring a super bright 5W
COB LED light source, which
X Go for a short test drive, empty reservoir and refill. Repeat. gives an even and constant
X After second top-up, go for a longer drive then top-up to ‘max hot’ line. spread of light, producing up to
I used Comma MVCHF, and one litre was enough to do the job. I believe the relevant rating 400 lumens.
is CHF11S, but do check your owner’s manual. All Series 1 XC90s and Series 2 V70s/S60s and X Built-in emergency power bank
S80s use a similar pump and reservoir, so this procedure should apply there also. to charge mobile devices.
Wayland Twiston Davies X Top 3W high power LED torch
producing up to 100 lumens.
X Integral hanging hook/belt clip
and a magnetic base which can
rotate through 180° for hands-
A CHARGED ISSUE free applications.
X Features a battery level indicator.
X Reading your Editorial in the February 2020 charge?’ section, the reason for having a car
X Rechargeable 3.7V 1.2Ah
issue on the performance of new cars sales – it before you can have a home charger fitted is Li-ion battery for longer
is obvious that folk will not spend the sort of because there is a Type 1 and Type 2 system life, no memory effect and a
money to buy electric cars in quantity until depending on the model you have. So, if you much slower discharge than
the price is reasonable, and the range and have two cars with different systems, I assume traditional Ni-MH batteries.
ease of charging are acceptable. Why can’t the you will need both chargers. I wonder if you get
charging systems be standardised? What’s the discount on both (don’t hold your breath).
going to happen to all the old EV batteries? And we all thought buying a normal car was
Onto Steve Rothwell’s Thinking of Going a minefield!
Electric feature – in the ‘How much is it to Peter Richardson

COOLANT
BRAKING DISASTERS CHECK BY
X I had a chuckle while reading your Editorial
(CM, Jan 2020), as it reminded me of a
repair I had to do to a farmer friend’s Yamaha MULTIMETER
quad last year. Farmers seem to come in two X Thank you for an interesting
camps when it comes to maintenance of feature on this subject in
our machinery – either keeping machinery the November 2019 issue’s
meticulously maintained in an attempt to stave Winter Maintenance article,
off unwelcome breakdowns, or the type that just also referred to in HELP! of the
keep on using it until it won’t work any more! January 2020 issue (page 66).
I’m in the first camp, but my good friend and I have checked my Skoda
neighbour is very much in the latter, and consequently I’m often called on to try and nurse Fabia as depicted, but wish
a non-functioning tractor, quad or pick-up into slightly better health. to point out some variances
The photo is from the aforementioned quad that had brakes that had been “a bit noisy” until they in testing. Initially, I obtained
ceased to function altogether. A quick stripdown revealed the true horror of the situation – the pads a MINUS reading (-50Mv).
had gone down to the metal then worn the backing plate down until the caliper piston punched After a minute this changed to
through. Undeterred by the noise and rapidly diminishing braking performance, my friend continued -9Mv, and a few minutes later
to check his sheep with nothing but the caliper piston for retardation. The poor little piston carried it had become positive. After
on valiantly, grinding down until it reached the end of its travel and popped out. Fortunately the local an hour this had stabilised at
dealer had a new piston and pads in stock and full braking was swiftly restored! +8.5Mv. This suggests that
James Jefferson Smith in my case I have nothing to
worry about, although the
OAT antifreeze has been there

TWO NUTS FOR ME for 10 years. I inserted the

meter probe into the plastic
X One tip that works for me, to prevent exposed threads from corroding, is to add an extra nut onto header tank.
any exposed thread. I have added the old nut from a worn droplink, track rod end, etc. to cover any My point is that the probes
excess thread. After torquing the new nut correctly, the old nut goes on top – and both nuts are so need to be in situ for an hour, at
much easier to remove when required. least, to get a steady reading.
Richard Pattison David Born

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 63

 DIY Servicing
Peugeot 308
1.4 16v petrol

Be thrifty
with your
308
Peugeot’s original 308 Overall difficulty rating
is based on the earlier BROUGHT TO YOU WITH
307, so it’s a fairly simple
i jack i axle stands
proposition to service on Equipment required i oil tray i socket
i sockets and spanners i flatblade i Phillips and Torx screwdrivers
your own driveway and i 14mm oil filter removal socket i antifreeze hydrometer
won’t take up much time, ii electronic brake/clutch fluid strength checker i wire brush
abrasive paper i ceramic brake grease i spray grease i tyre pump
PRINT & ONLINE MANUALS
reports Richard Gunn. i torch i torque wrench i rags for cleaning i disposable gloves

F
ollowing on, logically enough,
from the Peugeot 307, the 308
range was introduced to Britain
in August 2007. It retained much
of its predecessor 307’s underpinnings,
but, as is usually the way, enlarged
the bodywork with more length and
width. The body styles encompassed
hatchback and estate formats, with the
al fresco option of a retractable hardtop
cabriolet from early 2009. There’s was
also a saloon version, but only China
was blessed with this slightly awkward-
looking creation. A facelift came during
summer 2011, when the nose was slightly
Richard says
X A service is a good time to check for
any developing (or developed) faults.
Windscreen seals are a weak point,
and may be letting water in. If you find
damp inside, this may be the reason. The
electronics can be unreliable
too. There have been 18
recalls for the model,
so if you’ve only just
acquired your example,
it’s worth having a look
at the DVSA’s recall
checker (www.gov.uk/
check-vehicle-recall?)
to see what should have
been done.
RICHARD GUNN
Special Contributor
remodelled and there were tweaks to
the rear too. In this form, the model
continued until 2013 when the second
generation 308 came out – Peugeot, by
then, having got bored of constantly
changing the final digit. Besides, the
‘309’ designation had already been used
for a 1985 to 1993 machine.
Our model is a 2011 example, so
a pre-facelift car. It features the 1397cc
petrol engine, the smallest available in
a range that also encompassed 1587cc
and 1598cc petrol options as well as
1560cc and 1997cc diesel units. The HDi
model set a record by achieving 90mpg,
although this didn’t stop Peugeot being
rather economical with the truth and
Underbonnet layout
POLLEN FILTER AIR FILTER
BEHIND SOUND
INSULATION TRIM
SPARK PLUGS x 4
COOLANT UNDER COVER
RESERVOIR
SCREENWASH POWER STEERING ENGINE OIL
RESERVOIR FLUID RESERVOIR DIPSTICK
claiming 126mpg, for which it fell foul of
the Advertising Standards Authority.
Despite being nine years old, this
Peugeot has only covered just over 20,000
miles – well below the mileage where
a lot of the bigger jobs need to be done,
although a comprehensive service was
given nonetheless. Thus, for example,
the platinum-tipped spark plugs, which
should last 40,000 miles, were done.
With no way to check the gearbox oil,
and a chain instead of a cambelt on these
1.4 models, servicing is straightforward.
The biggest challenge is where Peugeot
decided to inconveniently stick the air
filter and how many screws it decided to
use for its cover.
BRAKE/CLUTCH
FLUID RESERVOIR FUSEBOX
12V BATTERY
ENGINE SMALL COVER
OIL FILTER MENTIONED IN STEP 1

M A I N TA I N Y O U R C A R W I T H H AY N E S
64 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 DIY Servicing 2011 Peugeot 308 1.4 16v petrol
UNDER THE BONNET TOP TIP
When the
oil filter cap
goes back on,
it should be
torqued up to
25Nm.

3 CHANGE OIL FILTER

1 REMOVE SMALL COVER
While not quite as clothed in covers as other
cars we’ve come across, there are inevitably
some bits of pointless plastic in the engine
bay that need to be removed. Start with this
lid in front of the battery; press in the tab then
lift the cover off for better access to do jobs.
2 UNDO AIR INTAKE
You’ll find the oil filter obstructed by the
air filter intake, alongside the cover you’ve
just taken off. Undo the jubilee clip and lift
the adjacent pipework out of the way – this
should now allow you to get an oil filter tool
successfully in to extract the filter.
The oil filter cap requires a 27mm socket to
undo. With the filter cap away, pull out the
filter element and fit a new one. Discard the
old rubber O-ring from the threads and fit the
replacement that should have come with the
filter. Apply some clean oil to this seal before
refitting (after you’ve drained the engine oil).

5 CHANGE SPARK PLUGS

4 ACCESS SPARK PLUGS
There’s another cover shielding the spark plugs; undo the two T30
screws, then unclip the front of the cover. Each plug has individual
coils; undo the wiring clips and then pull the coil units out. You’ll
need a 14mm socket to undo the spark plugs; lift them out with care.
The spark plugs are platinum-tipped items, which should be good for
40,000 miles or so. However, despite the low mileage of this car, the
owner asked for them to be changed. The ones that came out were
NGK R PLZKBR7A-G items, but these have now been superseded by
PLZKBR7B8DG instead. Put in the new plugs and reattach the coils.

TOP TIP
It’s worth
applying a little
bit of grease to
the expansion
tank threads,
to make the cap
easier to undo
in future.

6 CHECK BRAKE FLUID 7 CHECK COOLANT 8 CHECK DRIVEBELT

You should be able to make out the level
through the casing of the combined brake/
clutch fluid reservoir. However, it’s prudent
to take the top off to use an electronic
fluid checker to ensure that not too much
moisture has been absorbed. Use DOT4 fluid
to top-up if necessary.
The coolant expansion tank has level marks
outside, so make sure the fluid inside
is between them. Checking the mixture
strength is a sensible precaution; use
a hydrometer to ensure the fluid will give
adequate protection. Have a look inside the
cap to make sure the seal is of good order.
You can see the auxiliary drivebelt on the
right of the engine bay, although access is
somewhat limited. However, do your best
to check its condition; look for any tearing,
fraying or cracking. Also check the tension,
which should be no more than a quarter of
a turn between the pulleys.

PRINT & ONLINE MANUALS

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 65
DIY Servicing 2011 Peugeot 308 1.4 16v petrol
UNDER THE BONNET CONTINUED

9 CHECK POWER STEERING 10 TOP-UP SCREENWASH 11 UNDO AIR FILTER

The power steering fluid reservoir is tucked
away by the right-hand side headlamp; it can
be quite easy to miss, thanks to its positioning.
There’s an internal dipstick underneath the
cap – check that the fluid level is between the
marks on this. Frequent topping-up suggests
there’s a leak that needs investigating.
The screenwash filler neck is just in front of
the coolant expansion tank, topped off with
with a blue cap. It gets used up very quickly,
winter or summer, and most of the bottle is
hidden, so refill with the correct mix of water
and screenwash until the liquid reaches to
the top of the long neck.
The air filter box is rather inconsiderately
placed under the bulkhead. ‘It’s a real faff,’
as our mechanic described it, since there
are seven T25 Torx screws plus a 10mm bolt
right at the front. Once you’ve (carefully)
dealt with these, lift the cover up and out
from under the bulkhead.

14 REFILL ENGINE OIL

12 CHANGE AIR FILTER
You should now be able to see the air filter
nestling under the bulkhead. Just slide it out,
then clean out the space where it sits with
a damp cloth, to try and clear any dust and
debris. Slip in a fresh element, making sure it
goes in the correct way around.
13 CHECK BATTERY
You can only access the positive terminal of
the 12V battery – the rest of it is shrouded in
anonymous black plastic. So make sure that
terminal, situated underneath the hinged
black flap, is securely attached and give it a
coating of grease, to protect against corrosion.
Once you’ve drained the old engine oil (see
Step 18) and replaced the sump plug, refill
the engine via a funnel with 5W-30 LS fully-
synthetic low SAPS oil. The official capacity
is 4.25 litres, but you won’t squeeze all this
in because of residual stuff left over, so pay
attention to the dipstick as you fill.

UNDER THE VEHICLE – FRONT

15 CHANGE POLLEN FILTER

The pollen filter is inside the bulkhead.
Remove the four trim clips on the right-hand side, then
pull the sound insulation trim out. You’ll then see a small cover with
a handle on it – pull the handle to release the cover – you should now
be able to slide out the old filter and replace it with a new one.
16 REMOVE UNDERTRAY
With the car safely up in the air, there’s a plastic tray underneath the
front that needs to be removed in order for the oil to be drained. There
should be two 10mm nuts and seven 10mm bolts holding it in place –
but you can expect some to be missing or replaced by cable ties.

M A I N TA I N Y O U R C A R W I T H H AY N E S
66 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

17 CHECK UNDERBODY
Have a look underneath for any corrosion or
damage. Specific things to check include any
exposed metal brake and fuel lines, as well
as the condition and security of the exhaust
system and its mountings, plus any untoward
damage. Everything checked out OK here, as
to be expected from a 20,000-mile car.
20 REMOVE WHEELS
There are no locking wheelnuts here – wheel
trims instead of alloys. Lever off the trims
and then undo the wheel bolts. Check the
suspension and steering components – look
for perished rubber bushes, tears or gaps in
the CV and steering rack gaiters, broken road
springs and leaking dampers and brake lines.
23 CLEAN/LUBRICATE PADS
Assuming the pads are able to be reused – if
they have at least 3mm of friction material
left – clean the fronts by rubbing them on
abrasive paper or (carefully avoiding fingers)
with a wire brush. Also apply some grease –
we used white ceramic brake stuff – on their
rears and mounting lugs. Now reassemble.
PRINT & ONLINE MANUALS
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
DIY Servicing 2011 Peugeot 308 1.4 16v petrol
TOP TIP
There’s a copper
washer on the drain
plug – renew it to
help prevent leaks.
Torque plug to 30Nm.
18 DRAIN ENGINE OIL
Once the undertray is off, the engine oil drain
plug is simple, on the sump bottom. We used
a 5/16th socket, but this probably isn’t the
original size. Drain with the oil warm and
make sure you have a container handy to
catch the four litres or so likely to come out;
dispose of in an environmentally-friendly way.
21 CLEAN BRAKES
Clean-up the brakes thoroughly before you
start to dismantle them. Use a wire brush
along with proprietary spray cleaner if you
have some, over the exterior of the caliper
and the disc to remove excess rust and dust.
You can turn the disc rim against the blade of
a screwdriver to remove loose rust on that.
UNDER THE VEHICLE – REAR
24 DISASSEMBLE BRAKES
Carry out the same wheel/tyre checks as with
the front axle, then remove the wheel. Check
the suspension for any issues, then clean
the brakes as comprehensively as you’ve
just done the front ones. It’s a 13mm socket
or spanner to remove the rear bolts, with a
15mm spanner to hold the slides.
TOP TIP
Tyre pressures are
on a label on the
driver’s side A-pillar.
For these 195/65 R15
tyres, they’re 2.2
bar (32psi) at the
front and 2.3 bar
(33.5psi) at the rear.
The torque figure for
the road wheel bolts
is 100Nm.
19 CHECK WHEELS
Scrutinise all tyres for anything stuck in them
and that they’re road legal with adequate, even
tread. Look for any cracking, kerbing or bulging.
Rock the wheels top to bottom – significant
play points to suspension problems. Finally,
spin the wheels and listen for the low drone
that suggests a wheel bearing wearing out.
22 DISASSEMBLE BRAKES
Two rear bolts hold on each caliper. Use a 13mm
spanner to undo them; you may need to hold
the slider with an adjustable spanner or pliers.
Once undone, pull the caliper away and remove
the pads. Carry on the cleaning process;
compacted brake dust in recesses can always
be scraped away using a screwdriver blade.
25 CHECK REAR BRAKES
Once the caliper is out of the way and the
pads off, it’s pretty much the same procedure
as with the fronts; further general cleaning
then, assuming the pads are fine to be reused,
scraping their fronts on abrasive paper or
with a wire brush, then applying some ceramic
brake grease to the backs and mounting lugs.
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 67
DIY Servicing 2011 Peugeot 308 1.4 16v petrol
UTV – REAR CONTINUED
26 GREASE HANDBRAKE
You’ll be able to see the tail-end of the
handbrake mechanism on each rear wheel.
It is worth greasing each one, as they’re
right in the firing line of stuff thrown up by
the back wheels. Spray grease or applying
some by hand or an old paintbrush should be
adequate enough protection.
29 CHECK ALL WIPERS
Make sure the rubber blades aren’t perished
or torn, which will make them less effective
and could ultimately lead to the glass being
scratched. You’ll need to have the bonnet
open to properly examine the fronts. Don’t
forget the rear screen one, which sees less
use and so problems could be overlooked.
Don’t forget to also
X CHECK HANDBRAKE and make sure that
there’s not too much travel. About three
to four ‘clicks’ from off to on is normal.
X EXAMINE ALL PIPEWORK under the
bonnet for perishing or leaks.
This includes coolant, vacuum and fuel
hoses as well as any metal lines.
X CLEAN-OUT DRAINHOLES on the
body and doors, using something
like a small screwdriver or wire –
they can get blocked up, which will
encourage corrosion.
X CHECK THE FUEL CAP and make sure
it is securing properly and the rubber
seal isn’t perished.
M A I N TA I N Y O U R C A R W I T H H AY N E S
68 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
OTHER ITEMS
27 CHECK ALL INSTRUMENTS
Give each seatbelt a sharp tug, to ensure
that they ‘grab’ – it’s an MOT failure and,
obviously, safety issue if not. Make sure all
the instruments, controls and lights function
as intended. You can check if the tail-lamps
are working properly by looking for their
reflections on a handy nearby wall.
30 CHECK SPARE WHEEL
The spare wheel is under the boot false floor
and, rather unusually for a small hatchback,
is a proper full-size item. So check it for
condition and pressure – 34psi is good, as
it may lose a little pressure over time. Also
check the toolkit in the centre of the wheel.
You never known when you might need it.
SERVICE SCHEDULE
EVERY 10,000 MILES or 12 MONTHS
X Change engine oil
X Change engine oil filter
X Check CV gaiters
X Lubricate all hinges, locks & catches
X Check coolant level & strength
X Check tyre condition & pressure
X Check brake & clutch fluid level & strength
X Check power steering fluid level
X Check and top-up screenwash
X Check wiper blades & screen washer jets
X Check battery
X Reset service interval indicator
X Check engine bay pipework & wiring
X Check all lights, instruments & controls
X Reset the service interval indicator
Thanks to Craig at Dawson Motors for his assistance with this article. This friendly, independent
garage based in Peterborough is happy to work on all types of vehicles. Contact 07504 552063
for details or see www.facebook.com/DawsonMotors
28 RESET SERVICE INDICATOR
To reset the service indicator following the
end of the service, press in the right-hand trip
button, then turn on the ignition – there’s no
need to actually start the car. Keep the trip
button pressed in, and a 10 to zero countdown
will start. When it reaches the end, the
service indicator will have reset itself.
31 LUBRICATE LOCKS
All the locks, catches and hinges should be
lubricated – this is often skipped, meaning
the job may not have been done for ages.
The result is that items can get stiff or seize
completely. Use spray grease or household
oil from a can – with an extension nozzle to
help you really get deep into things.
EVERY 20,000 MILES or TWO YEARS
ALL THE ABOVE plus
X Check pollen filter, change if necessary
X Check auxiliary drivebelt
X Check front and rear brakes, clean or
renew as necessary
X Check handbrake operation
X Check steering & suspension components
EVERY 40,000 MILES or FOUR YEARS
ALL THE ABOVE plus
X Change spark plugs X Change air filter
X Check transmission fluid level (if possible)
X Change coolant
X Change remote fob batteries
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 Help!
GENERAL
New tyres
Could you please advise on
purchasing a pair of new tyres
for my 2016 Audi Q5 S line Plus
2.0 TDI Quattro 190PS? I am concerned
about ordering Michelin Latitude Sport 3
of specification 255/45 R20 101W tyres
– could you inform me of an acceptable
stockists, maximum tyre shelf age, before
I order/arrange/purchase/fitment from
garage. I am concerned that the stockist
may palm me off with old stock.
My intention is to purchase tyres from a
national garage outlet, rather than from a
minor garage (back street outlet), where
some require payment up front before
ordering. I’m replacing the two rear tyres
which have been on the vehicle since new
– recorded mileage at present 25,100, and
ages (3615) and (2715).
Tom Heron
Apparently, it is permissible to
sell a tyre as new which may be
up to five years old. This in my
mind is too long and I would not be happy
to except it, especially given that there
has been much talk about introducing
a maximum age for tyres. It can take
between six to nine months for a tyre
to get through the system from the
manufacturer to the retail outlet and so a
tyre which may be up to a year or eighteen
months old would be permissible.
Unlike tyres in use, the new tyre is not
subject to pressure, neither is it subject
to the harmful UV rays which do play a
big part in the deterioration of the tyre.
There is now far more awareness of
FORD FIESTA
Dodgy folding
door mirror
The driver’s door mirror on my 2007
Ford Fiesta 1.4 five-door folds back,
but as it retracts it vibrates slightly
at the end of its cycle, then you can hear a
‘chattering’ sound like a gear wheel trying
to find more teeth, before it comes to rest.
Is this a ‘strip the mirror out and sort out
70 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
Your non-diagnostic
vehicle-related problems
solved by Steve Rothwell
the tyres age and the age marking on
tyres which as you know is printed on
the side of the tyre in a four digit format
and I believe due to this awareness, the
tyre industry have made a greater effort
to ensure older tyres are not kept in
stock longer than needed.
GENERAL
Smart-charge
system
How can you tell if a car is fitted with
a smart-charge alternator/system
for when you may want to jump-
start a car or replace the battery on one?
Craig Christie
Vehicles which employ the
smart-charge system will
normally have three or more
wires coming from the rear of the
alternator. Older standard charging
systems will have just the two, the main
battery feed and the alternator warning
light wire which connects to the ignition
light on the dash.
There are a few different systems used
by manufacturers now which are deemed
as smart-charge, and they all employ at
least one other wire (often two) which
are connected to a control box.
Replacing the battery on a vehicle
with a smart-charge system is not
normally a problem as long as you
ensure you fit the correct battery as
recommended by the manufacturer.
Some modern vehicles do have a battery
condition monitor, and this will need to
be reset when a new battery is fitted.
When jump-starting any vehicle it is
the gears’ job or is it an ECU problem that
requires a laptop/scanner to put it right?
Richard Green
This is a common problem with
the mirror and can possibly be
rectified by resetting the mirrors.
What is occurring is that the mirror
motor is not stopping when it should
and is trying to fold the mirror further
out than it should go.
To reset it, try the following:
1) Open the driver’s window to allow
access to the control panel with the
door locked.
2) Remove the mirror control panel and
disconnect the loom. Manually set the
mirror all the way forward to the front
wise to take precautions as a voltage
surge can damage many components
even on a non-smart charge vehicle.
GENERAL
Expanding foam
What would your opinion be of
using expanding foam in the
box sections of a classic car?
I remember reading about this years ago
to prevent rust and stiffen the car.
Mike Oakes
I would point out that the
practice of using expanding
foam in the chassis sections of
classic vehicles is quite a hot topic. The
foam used is NOT that available in the
aerosol cans used by builders. It is a
Structural Foam and used to increase
the rigidity of the body.
There are many reports which would
confirm that in new vehicles it has a
very positive effect on the strength of
the structure, but the biggest downfall
is that it does then prevent damp from
draining away from within the cavities,
thus promoting rust.
One of the biggest problems I would
have with using the foam is that once
installed it cannot be removed and
when any remedial work may need to be
carried out, welding any section near the
foam-filled area would be a major hazard.
To conclude, whilst it may strengthen
the structure slightly, I believe it would
do more harm than good in any rust
prevention measures. Unless used and
fully-adhered to a new chassis, I believe
it would increase the rate of corrosion
on older sections.
on the vehicle and then lock the car.
3) Plug the loom back in place, after
which the mirror should fold all the
way in. Disconnect the loom again
and unlock the car, then fold the
mirror all the way forward manually.
4) Lock the vehicle and reconnect the
loom. This time, the mirror should
return to the normal open position.
5) Disconnect the loom once more and
unlock the vehicle.
6) Fold the mirror into the closed
position manually, then reconnect the
loom and lock the vehicle.
When you now unlock the vehicle,
the mirror should open to the correct
position without the juddering at the
end of the cycle.
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 Help!

The re-map has probably been

FORD FOCUS ST
Turbo whine
My friend has bought an 09-plate
Ford Focus ST which has a couple of
issues. First, there’s a notable knock
from the gearbox end of the engine which
stops with the clutch down. What’s the
likely culprit: DMF, clutch or transmission?
My friend said the car has been
remapped. It has a cone-type induction
air filter under the bonnet – sucking in all
the hot air, I guess – and an atmospheric
dump valve and a de-cat pipe which is
going to be replaced with a cat, so there’s
a good chance it has been remapped and
producing a lot more torque. Am I right in
thinking that DMFs are only designed for
the OE engine specs?
There’s also a whine/whistle from
the turbo as it spools up, which can be
heard from inside the car. This sounds
suspicious to me, but I’m not familiar with
these engines so I don’t know the norm.
Anthony Pattinson
The knock from the gearbox
end is most likely to be the DMF,
but it is difficult to say without
hearing it. Short sharp revs of the engine
will normally show up a DMF noise,
which will knock as the revs increase.
necessary due to the removal of the
standard air filter system and fitting of
the de-cat. This is a point that will get
picked up at the next MOT and will need
rectifying. When the cat is refitted, the
ECU will have to be readjusted.
The whine/whistle may be due to the
dump valve or the cone filter – both can
alter the pitch of the turbo. It could also
be that the turbo bearings are failing
and the rotor is making contact with the
interior of the turbo duct. You can check
this by looking in the turbo for any shiny
marks, indicating that contact has taken
place. If any contact is taking place, or if
any movement can be felt in the shaft,
the turbo will need to be renewed.
the light was on, the car performed
normally. I don’t know much about my
FORD MONDEO car’s sensors/ECU set-up, but do you
think that what happened is coincidence
ECU fault or could there be a technical reason for
the fault to apparently be fixed?
A problem with my 2007 Ford I can borrow a code reader from a friend,
Mondeo Edge petrol hatchback but am I right in thinking that the previous
is puzzling me. Two weeks fault codes will be in the ECU memory, so
ago, I added Cataclean to the fuel tank will be readable by the device? The vehicle
and drove the car normally for a week has covered 105,000 miles on the original
with no apparent issue. Then the ECU fuel filter – could this be relevant?
management light came on and stayed One another question: I want to fit
on until I refuelled the car. To my surprise, new rear pads and discs to my Mondeo.
on restarting the engine, the light was Can I wind back the calipers without
extinguished and stayed off all day. While disconnecting the handbrake cable?
Roger Edwards

FORD Ka The problem was possibly due to

the Cataclean going through the

Brake disc retainers system and having an effect on

the 02 sensors. The code you may find
I am trying to change the rotor on my 60-reg Ford Ka Mk2, but can’t undo could be ‘P0133’, ‘P0153’ or ‘P0171 – 5’.
the tyre locator pegs and the heads are going weird. I just can’t undo them If the code clears and the EML does not
and need advice! I have a 12mm deep socket, but this will not work. I also re-illuminate, I would be happy that the
tried penetrating fluid and a vice grip to no avail. problem is not ongoing and was due
Jayne Newbury to the irregular mixture caused as the
Cataclean worked through the system. Of
The pins you are attempting course, once the codes have been read,
to undo hold the brake disc in the cause of the illuminated EML will
place and also keep the wheel be much easier to pinpoint. At 105,000
and tyre in position. As you say, they miles, I would certainly recommend
are held by a 12mm headed bolt. replacing the fuel filter, but I don’t
Although you mention you have a believe it is the source of your problem.
deep socket, you do not say if this is a The rear brake caliper pistons can
double or single Hex socket (12 or six be wound back without disconnecting
sides). If you use a single hex socket, the brake cables. You should ensure
you should find it will grip on the that the handbrake is released and that
retaining bolt and possibly undo it. As the handbrake levers are fully back to
you have used a vice grip on the head the stop. If they are not, the handbrake
of the bolt, it may have now be too Readers pictures of cable should be slackened slightly until
damaged to get a good grip, even with rounded off locating pins. the levers are fully back to the stop on
a six-sided socket. If this is the case, a the calipers. Once the brake pads are
set of tools such as these https://bit.ly/2C34Usg may help. in place and the calipers refitted, the
Another tip to help loosen the peg before attempting to undo it is to strike the footbrake should be pumped to position
end with a hammer square on. This shock often helps free the threads. the brake pads before the handbrake
If the old retaining bolts are damaged it may be wise to get new ones from your is applied. If the handbrake is applied
local Ford dealer when refitting the brake discs. The peg can then be cut off to get before the brake pedal is pumped, this
a better access to the head. will prevent the automatic adjustment
mechanism from operating correctly.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 71

Help!
FORD B-MAX
Transmission
filter query
I was under the impression that
my 2013 Ford B-MAX had the
same Powershift transmission
as the Fiesta, which according to your
magazine needs an oil and filter change
at 35,000 miles. My dealer says there
were two types of Powershift transmission
and that my B-MAX does not have the
filter. Is he correct?
M Hopkins
When you say CM states the
gearbox needs an oil and filter
change, I’m not sure if you’re
referring to the feature on twin-clutch
transmissions in the February 2016
edition, which pointed to early failure
due to an oil and filter change being
needed. This feature was referring
to the early wet clutch version of the
gearbox, whereas your B-MAX has the
dry clutch version DPS6/6DCT250 unit
that does not have a filter. The earlier
four-speed automatic gearbox as used in
the Fiesta did have an oil strainer/filter
which required replacing and this one
may have also been referred to in the
magazine at some point.
FORD FIESTA
Service schedule
I will be servicing my wife’s 2017
Ford Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost once the
warranty is up. Can you supply
details of the service schedule please?
I know you are not the biggest fan of the
EcoBoost engine, but my wife is a low-
mileage user and it will take 10 years
before she adds 30,000 miles to the car!
Melvyn Allen
I am hoping that the earlier
problems with the EcoBoost
engines have now been ironed
out. I do believe that the smaller engine
is one of the ways that fuel economy and
the emission issues are being addressed
and we will begin to see more of these
smaller engines being developed before
the move to alternate fuels takes place.
The service schedule for Ford vehicles
is very easily obtained by going to www.
etis.ford.com and inputting the vehicle
details, after which a service sheet will
be generated. The website will also
inform you of any outstanding service
campaigns. It’s a shame that other
manufacturers don’t follow the Ford
example with this!
72 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
possible for the front or rear systems to
operate alone. It may be the case that
you have one front and one rear sensor
which has failed. However, both front
and rear systems work from the same
JAGUAR X-TYPE parking module, so if this fails both
systems may not operate.
Parking sensors The front sensors can be turned off
using the switch in the roof console. I
The parking sensors front and rear have sent you a schematic for the system,
aren’t working on my 2007 Jaguar but unfortunately the only test method
X-TYPE 2.2 Sovereign diesel with is using the Jaguar diagnostic system.
150,000 miles. With reverse selected, However, you can read the resistance of
there is no ‘clicking’ on any sensor and a each sensor between terminals one and
red light appears on the overhead switch two using an ohmmeter; a failed sensor
in the car. The fuse is OK and I have would give a different reading.
12-volts at the module in the boot. The Hopefully with the benefit of the
plugs at the module are clean. I have no schematic, you may be able to trace
code reader to check the parking function. the wiring and carry out a test using an
My Haynes manual has no schematic ohmmeter, but given the system does
for the sensors. Do the front and rear not operate at all then it could be either
sensors work independently? Can a the GEM or Parking module that has
sensor be checked off the car with a failed. The system should incorporate
12-volt supply or do I need to send it away a self-test mode to indicate a faulty
for repair? Any other suggestions. sensor and this would give a beep after
Peter Hampson three seconds when selecting reverse.
As you have no sound, it could be one of
The front and rear sensors are the sounders at fault, but for both to not
powered separately and also operate the problem is more likely to be
have a separate sounder, so it is the control module.
JAGUAR S-TYPE
Brake servo operation
I own a 2005 Jaguar S-TYPE 3.0-litre, automatic. I may or may not have a
problem with the vacuum brake assistance. If my mechanical knowledge
serves me correctly, one side of the brake servo is at normal atmospheric
pressure, while the other side is in a vacuum. I believe that when the engine is
turned off, this vacuum is maintained, assuming the system is sealed. However,
within a few minutes of the engine being turned off, the brake pedal is solid.
I questioned a mechanic about this, at the garage where the car is regularly
serviced, and he said that the vacuum will be lost when the engine is turned off. Having
access to a couple of work vehicles, I tried the brake pedals in them and found that
the pedals travelled much further. In other words, the vacuum had been maintained.
On the Jaguar, if I start the engine while pushing on the brake pedal, it sinks
slightly. During driving the brakes work normally.
So, my question is, do I have a problem with the servo system, or does the braking
system on the Jaguar S-TYPE, work differently?
Stephen Hayes
The vacuum in the brake system will be lost
over a period of time and will vary across
The non-return valve in the servo
different vehicles. As the vehicle ages the hose which may be faulty.
time the vacuum will be maintained for will diminish.
The important factor is that once the engine is started, with pressure applied
to the brake pedal, the pedal should drop slightly indicating that the servo is
operational. There are different points where the vacuum may be lost, and it is
possible that the loss of vacuum is due to one of two common areas.
The first is the grommet where the servo pipe enters the servo. This can perish
over time and allow atmospheric pressure to enter the servo. The second is the
failure of the small one-way valve in the servo pipe. This would mean replacing
the servo pipe as the valve is not a separate unit.
If replacing the vacuum pipe or the grommet care must be taken when removing
the pipe to ensure that it is not broken in the process. The easiest way to do this
is by gently pulling it to one side and pulling the pipe out one side at a time.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 Help!

VAUXHALL CROSSLAND

Alarm sounding
My work colleague has acquired a nearly-new Vauxhall Crossland and the
VAUXHALL ASTRA alarm is going off erratically. We both appreciate that the vehicle is under
warranty, but he is becoming exasperated as, after numerous garage visits

‘Service power
steering’
When I turn on the ignition, my
2014 Vauxhall Astra diesel is
intermittently displaying the
message ‘Service power steering’ with a
spanner sign. This disappears once it starts.
Do I need a mechanic to check it out?
Jackie Holmes
The ‘service power steering’
message, which should be
code 68, indicates that there
is a problem in the system. This may
be something minor, such as a poor
connection or possibly an alternator
which is not charging at the correct rate.
However, it could be something more
serious, such as a failing steering angle
sensor or something that has begun
to develop within the steering system.
For this reason, it would be better to
have the problem checked out before it
begins to affect the feel of the steering.
VAUXHALL CAVALIER
and overnight retentions, the fault persists. An alarm module has been changed.
He is given the response that as no fault codes are stored and they are at a loss
for an answer. He had a theory that the recent high winds could be accentuating the
problem and I thought this could be credible.
He asked me and I suggested:
X Faulty battery earth connection and/or lead
registering a voltage drop.
X Current drain, intermittently, by other modules on
the car (Kim Henson’s Zafira had such a problem
with the Entertainment System drawing current).
X Faulty battery (seen in Car Mechanics columns and
susceptibility of Vauxhalls to this).
He hopes to take any ideas back to the garage and
would not attempt to disturb anything on the car.
Please say if you have any further ideas. The switch to disable the
Charles Morgan interior sensors.
The suggestions you have put forward are very credible and certainly
worth looking into, the battery drain would be the point on the list to
consider and one which hopefully the suppling dealer will look into.
One other common reason for false alarm activation is that the interior
sensor is either too sensitive or is intermittently detecting a problem, this can
be because of severe temperature change or due to the effects of a heavy wind
causing unwanted movement.
It is possible to disable the interior monitoring and it may be worth trying this
to deduce if the interior sensors are the cause of the alarm sounding. To turn off
the interior monitoring with all the doors closed, the button on the roof console
should be pressed until the LED illuminates, the vehicle should then be exited and
locked in the normal manner, you have ten minutes after pressing the button to
exit and lock the vehicle.

Mid-throttle This is a one-time operation and once the vehicle is unlocked the next time the
vehicle is locked the interior sensors will again be activated.

splutter
My 1995 Vauxhall Cavalier 1.8 single-
point injection manual with 121,000
miles has a fault on mid-throttle.
About two months ago, I started buying
supermarket petrol because it's cheaper.
After about five fill-ups, the car now stutters
on part-throttle and misfires at around
2000rpm when stationary. I tried to get
some Wynn’s Dry Fuel from Halfords, but
they no longer stock it, so instead I bought
some Redex one-shot injector cleaner,
which did nothing. The last two fill-ups were
made from a fuel station and a supermarket,
respectively. I then tried the Dry Fuel and
there was a slight improvement, but then
it returned to how it was.
I bought a new throttle position sensor
off eBay and fitted it – do these need to
be primed? At the same time, I replaced
the distributor cap and rotor arm with new
Bosch genuine parts. At first there was no
change, but after revving a few times the
misfire went away, but now has returned.
I then did a cylinder isolation test and there
was very little difference apart from number
If, with the interior sensors deactivated, the alarm does not sound then this will
be an indication of the problem.
3 cylinder seeming much stronger than the
others, with a noticeable difference in idle.
The plugs are NGK BKR6EK double-
electrodes and have done 10,000 miles.
There is now an upgrade – BKR6EIX – are
they worth the additional cost? The leads
are much older, but are mostly wrapped in
insulation tape to avoid stray sparking.
It's still shunting on mid-throttle, yet
starts first time and pulls OK. Although
sometimes it feels as if the brakes are on.
Geoff Martin
I would expect the problem to
associated with fuel rather than
the ignition system. For this
reason, I would not expect that replacing
the spark plugs with BKR6EIX items
would improve the situation.
Although there should be no reason
why different supermarket petrol
would be an inferior quality, it may well
be the case that you have picked up
a contaminant in the fuel that is the
cause of your problems. For this reason,
I would replace the fuel filter, which is
located in the fuel line near to the fuel
tank, to ensure that no contaminants
remain in the system.
The throttle potentiometer does
not need to be primed when fitted. If
this was the cause of your problems,
it would be very likely that the EML
would illuminate. Although you do not
mention an engine management light
being visible, it would be worth checking
the vehicle for any codes present. Your
vehicle should have a 10-pin data link
connection under the bonnet, which
requires dedicated equipment to access
the codes. Many good independent
garages should have this equipment.
As you mention a slight imbalance
found during your isolation test of the
cylinders, I would also consider carrying
out a compression test to ensure
that the problem is not due to poor
compression on one or more cylinders.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 73

Help!
VAUXHALL CORSA
Fuel tank trouble
When I put petrol in my 2012
Vauxhall Corsa – usually to three-
quarters of a tank – the engine
will misfire a few times. Sometimes the
orange maintenance light flickers on for a
second or two, too. This seems to happen
a few times for a day or so after I’ve put in
petrol, then settles down.
Elizabeth Lee
You do not identify the engine in
your Corsa, so I can only give a
general answer. The most likely
cause of an engine problem which only
occurs with a full or almost full fuel tank
is either related to the EVAP system or a
mechanical malfunction in the fuel tank.
If the active charcoal filter breather
system is faulty, the fuel may be
entering and blocking the vents, causing
short-term fuel starvation. If the fuel
pick-up in the tank is loose, or if debris
is present in the tank, this may alter with
the fuel level, causing partial starvation
for a short time. As the EML illuminates
for a short time, a code should be left in
the ECU. By using an EOBD scanner, it
should be possible to read off the code,
giving a clearer indication of the fault.
VAUXHALL ZAFIRA
Climate control
I have a 64-plate Zafira 1.8 petrol
with climate control. My question
concerns fitting a pollen filter. I read
that climate control filters are not easily
fitted, requiring a lot of dismantling because
of the filter’s location within the plumbing.
Is this correct? If not, is the installation
of the filter reasonably easy by the usual
method of removing the glovebox, etc?
Peter Leahy
The cabin or pollen filter is not
too difficult to replace on your
Zafira and is located behind the
glovebox. Replacement should take less
than 20 minutes. The complete glovebox
and housing should be removed by
unscrewing the fixings at each side, which
can be seen once the glovebox is opened.
There should be four fixings in total: two
at each outer edge of the top and one at
each side slightly lower down. Once the
glovebox and housing are removed, the
door to the pollen filter housing will be
visible at the top of the opening. The door
should pull forward and off, allowing the
filter to slide out of its housing. Ensure
that you are careful when pulling out the
filter as debris can drop into the vehicle.
74 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
this out and not found a problem (ie,
all lines hold a good vacuum, as do the
mounts, and the ECU is energising the
vacuum switch correctly and pulling the
mounts to around 25in/Hg at idle).
Do you think I’m on the right track in
BMW X5 suspecting the mounts to be worn? Given
the restricted access, they look a right pig
Vibration or to change, so I’d rather get the diagnosis
right first. If it’s not the mounts, then it's
buzzing noise something vibrating behind the dash, but
I don’t fancy pulling that apart either.
I’ve owned my BMW X5 for just Mark Thompson
under a year. It has covered
156,000 miles and has a good As the noise is eliminated by
service history, although I’ve had to do lots raising the engine slightly,
of work to bring it up to scratch. The most I believe you are on the right track
recent irritation is a vibration/buzzing and the noise is more likely to be coming
noise when stationary in traffic. It sounds from under the bonnet than behind the
like it may be coming from behind the dash. Before going to the expense of
dashboard, but is worse when in ‘Drive’ replacing the engine mounts, I would
with my foot on the foot brake. It reduces check out the other components that
a little if in ‘Park’, but a very light touch may be altered by slightly raising the
on the accelerator to raise the revs by no engine. One that immediately comes to
more than 50rpm causes it to disappear. mind is the power steering system hoses.
I can also get it to disappear if the engine The flexible hoses from the pump on the
is raised slightly off its mounts by jacking engine travel down to the steering rack
slightly under the sump. The problem is at and are supported by small flexible cotton
its worst when the engine is fully warmed- reel-type mounts. I would check these
up, so I’m not sure if the idle being raised thoroughly as a fractured mount could
slightly when cold is masking the problem? make exactly the noise you describe.
The engine mounts in this vehicle have I would also ensure that all engine covers
a comfort setting when idling which is are firmly fixed and that the exhaust
vacuum-controlled and I have checked system and heat shields are secure.
BMW 5-SERIES
Fault code explanation
Is there any information source that tells you the meaning of fault codes
for a 2004 BMW E60 525D auto? I have just used my new Creator C310
diagnostic tool and the car had the following fault codes: ‘A0B2 Supply,
terminal 30E’, ‘4513 Thermal oil level sensor signal’ and ‘5089-line status does not
match transmission position’. I cleared them, but the ‘4513’ code came back so
I assume there is something wrong with the oil level sensor. Could this be connected
to the ‘A0B2’ code, as this implies something electrical?
Jim Harrower
The Creator C310 diagnostic tool.
While there are a few good sources of explanations of
EOBD codes, there is not a one-stop place for BMW
codes. Any list will only give you the same short
explanation shown on the code reader – even the official
BMW TIS software does not expand on the explanation.
However, the basic explanation you have from the Creator
C310 should be enough to point you in the right direction.
You do not mention if the EML was on or if you had just
read the codes for the first time. If the latter is the case,
then the other codes may be historic and will need no
attention. The ‘A0B2’ code refers to a main relay and is
unlikely to be connected to the ‘4513’ code. The ‘4513’ code
indicates a faulty oil level sensor, but may also refer to a fault
within the circuit; for this reason, before replacing the sensor
I would check the connecting plug first. The ‘5089’ code indicates that,
at some point, the gearbox sensor did not react quickly enough to given
conditions. If this has cleared and it is not known how long the code has been
present, I would leave it as it is unlikely to reflect a current problem.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

BMW 1-SERIES
Seat swap
I have a 2008 BMW 1-Series 118d
2.0 automatic and would like to
know if the front seats can be
changed for seats from a 120 SE or 120
Sport? Are the electrics for the airbags
compatible with the existing seats, which
are manually adjusted?
Jeff Stringer
From the data I have, the airbag
system in the 118d will be the
same as the 120 SE and Sport.
However, if you do not have electric
adjustment in your vehicle and the seats
you fit do have electric adjustment,
it may pose a problem as you will be
unable to make any adjustments to the
seats once fitted. Manually adjusted
seats will fit without issue.
BMW 3-SERIES
Oil consumption
I own a 2007 BMW 330i that has
covered 80,000 miles. I am getting
1500 miles per litre of oil, but with
no leaks I just wonder where it is all going?
I can see no visible signs of blue smoke,
even when going down a hill then
accelerating. Recently, the cam cover was
replaced because the continuous crankcase
ventilation (CCV) valve had failed – the
engine is fitted with a plastic cover and the
valve is part of the cover. This improved
the oil consumption, which previously had
been around 1000 miles per litre.
My garage says these engines are well
known for high oil consumption and its
nothing to worry about. I am using Castrol
oil, as recommended by BMW.
David Pickard
The recommended oil for your
BMW is Castrol Edge 0W-30 and
I assume this is what you are
using. Your garage is correct in saying
that these engines are known for high
oil consumption and BMW appear to be
quite happy that one litre of oil can be
used every 600 miles. The failed CCV
valve would have resulted in a higher
oil usage, so having had that problem
rectified the oil usage has fallen.
The only tip I can give to reduce oil
usage is not to fill oil to the ‘Max’ mark
on the dipstick, but keep the level at
just above the centre line between the
‘Max’ and ‘Min’ marks. It should be
remembered that the ‘Max’ mark is the
maximum level and not the ideal level.
You may find that by keeping the oil level
slightly lower, oil usage may decrease.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
MERCEDES-BENZ AMG
Converting to LPG
Can you give me your thoughts
on converting a direct-injection
Mercedes-Benz AMG engine to run
on LPG? I would like to eventually buy an
E63 AMG fitted with the current 5.5-litre
twin-turbo direct-injection petrol engine.
I know that this engine is more
‘economical’ than the earlier 6.3-litre
atmospheric engine, but this is relative
and any big AMG will be hard on fuel, so
if the running costs can be reduced by
converting to LPG without causing any
damage, then I would be very interested!
I have read a lot of comments online
concerning potential problems with exhaust
valves and valve seats burning after some
engines were converted. Presumably a port
injection engine would be worst affected by
LPG as the valves and seats would no longer
get a blast of cooling and lubricating petrol
on each induction stroke? However, as the
5.5-litre AMG is a direct-injection engine,
it should already be fitted with hardened
valves and valve seats as these components
wouldn’t normally be cooled or lubricated
by petrol anyway. As this is obviously a
high-performance engine, I would assume
that all the components exposed to the
heat of combustion would already be very
tough and made from the highest quality
materials and unlikely to be damaged by
LPG. Would a flash-lube kit be a good idea
to help to ensure that both the valves and
valve seats are properly protected when
burning LPG?
Another matter of which I’m unsure is
the economics of an LPG conversion. We
all know that LPG is cheaper than petrol,
but it also has a lower calorific value
than petrol. This means that, journey
for journey, an LPG-burning engine will
always use more fuel than the same
engine using petrol. Then there is the
question of how many miles would have
be driven before breaking even on the
installation costs and making any savings.
Last, do you know if this engine suffers
from carbon build-up in the inlet valves, as
do some direct-injection petrol engines?
Danny Gillis
A direct-injection petrol engine
is not ideally suited for LPG
conversion. Unlike conventional
modern petrol engines, the injectors are
installed directly into the cylinder. The
injectors are subject to intense heat
from the combustion and, during normal
Help!
use, are then cooled as they inject the
next measure of fuel. If the engine is
converted to LPG, the injector is not
in use and does not get cooled by the
incoming fuel, allowing it to overheat.
It is possible to fit a system where the
injectors and the LPG work in tandem,
but the software is extremely complex
and, given the rising cost of LPG and all
the associated fitting costs, no financial
benefit would be seen for many miles.
With regard to flash lube kits, these
can also cause problems with the
catalytic convertor, and careful fine-
tuning of the system would be required
to ensure the best set-up.
My personal opinion is that Mercedes-
Benz spent a lot of production time to
develop the AMG unit to run at its best.
Any adaptation to LPG would only be a
detrimental move, and if running costs
are a concern, I would not choose this
vehicle. Some conversion specialists
might disagree with me about this, but
they’re entitled to their opinion.
Finally, I have not heard of any
problems with carbon build-up on the
inlet valves on these vehicles.
MERCEDES-BENZ B-CLASS
Changing
complete door
My 2005 Mercedes-Benz B-Class
has two damaged doors on the
offside. l was hoping to exchange
a whole door without stripping out the
electric motor, etc. I can see there is a
module inside the door, but does this
correspond with the key-fob and activate all
four door locks? Is it controlled via the ECU?
Geoffrey Rawlings
From the data I have, this is only
a control module and should
not be coded to the vehicle.
The Mercedes-Benz manual does say
that the module is readable with STAR
software, but not if it needs coding.
It should be possible to replace the
complete door without stripping out the
motor. However, having never carried out
the replacement of a door on a B-Class,
I can only give you my opinion based on
the details in the manual, but I would
expect everything to work correctly
after replacement. The windows will
need to be reset, but this is easily done
by using the switch to attain the full
travel of the window and then releasing
and re-pressing the switch to memorise
the position. In the worst-case scenario,
the only component that may need to
be swapped over is the module unit you
refer to, but this is easily accessible.
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 75
Help!

MERCEDES-BENZ GL420

Air suspension SAAB 9-5

I need some advice concerning an issue with the front air suspension fitted
to my 2008 Mercedes-Benz GL420 CDI, which also features the automatic
damping system (ADS), which allows the suspension setting to be changed
between ‘sport’, ‘auto’ and ‘comfort’ by pressing a dash-mounted rocker switch. The
Automatic
car has covered 87,000 miles from new and has never suffered collision damage or
been used off-road.
transmission
Nine months ago, the driver’s side front air strut was replaced by a Mercedes- I have a 2000 Saab 9-5 Aero auto
warranted exchange unit due to a worn internal part that was causing a gradually with engine code 2.3T. I rebuilt the
increasing knock when going over speed bumps, potholes, etc. The front suspension AW50-42 transmission two years
had been examined for wear and damage prior to replacing the strut. Replacing the ago with professional help, fitting a new
strut silenced the noise. Prior to this, a Mercedes dealer had replaced the front ride torque converter, and recently replaced
height assembly FOC on the driver’s side under an aftermarket warranty, because the valve body and electrical harness. The
the assembly was corroded and not working properly. transmission performs perfectly. However,
In the past two months, after leaving the vehicle overnight, I occasionally find that between 50-60mph when not accelerating,
both front struts have sunk evenly, leaving the top of the wheelarches on the wings the transmission and engine lights pop up
level with the tops of the front tyres. As soon as the engine is started, the struts consistently, especially with a very small
almost instantly pump up to the correct height. This fault appears to be random amount of steady throttle to maintain
and can sometimes not recur for more than a week or more. This suggests the speed. My Tech2 reader is showing the fault
struts are not leaking from the air bladders, otherwise they would leak continually. code ‘P0741 - Torque lock up circuit short or
No suspension warnings are illuminated on the dashboard and no suspension fault poor performance’. If I just slowly accelerate
codes are logged. through 50-60mph to, say, 70-80 and
Initially, an independent Mercedes dealer thought that the original ride height drive at the higher speed, then decelerate
sensor on the front passenger side might be failing intermittently, causing this to below 50, the code does not appear. If
sinking problem. A new OE sensor, complete with operating arm, was fitted, but the I drive all day below 50, the lights don’t
fault reappeared a few days later. appear. The code can always be cleared.
Having done some further research, it would appear that the original factory- I have the ATSG manual for the
fitted solenoid air suspension distribution block is the likely culprit, occasionally AW50-42LE transmission, and my Tech2
allowing air from the front struts to ‘leak back’ towards the air compressor. A can read and record live data, but I find
replacement from my local Mercedes dealer costs £271, but I found one being sold this is time consuming as I am not totally
online by a reputable manufacturer in the US for less than $80 plus postage, import skilled with it.
duty and VAT. I’ve asked them if this solenoid block will work with the ADS system Derek Houghton
on my car, but the customer service people aren’t certain, but they did tell me that
this is the only part available for the 2008 GL 320/450 petrol models in the US. Given the work that has been
I can’t see how the fundamentals of the air suspension would carried out, I am making the
vary between American and British models. assumption that the auto
I’m happy to take a chance if you think that this part would transmission fluid is in good condition
work in my car. I assume, though, that it would be OK, as and at the correct level.
presumably the ADS variable suspension works internally Code ‘P0741’ refers to the torque
in the air struts and not in the solenoid valve body. lock-up solenoid and will normally be
Danny Gillis flagged if the output speed of the torque
converter varies from the expected ratio
The air suspension on your vehicle is
The original Mercedes air of 100rpm for 10 seconds when it should
designed to keep the vehicle at a constant
suspension unit (bottom) and the be locked. The problem is normally
height irrespective of the number of
improved unit (top) look different. down to one of three reasons: either the
passengers carried or the load placed in the vehicle.
lock-up solenoid is faulty, the torque
This is all controlled via the sensors on each spring unit
convertor clutch has failed or there is a
and the valve block, which is located at the front
wiring fault.
offside of the vehicle. The solenoid or valve block
that you suspect to be at fault is the most likely Given that the torque convertor and
reason for the sinking front suspension. A leak valve body has been replaced, if this
from any other area would be more likely to lower included the torque converter clutch
only one of the suspension units at a time. solenoid, I would say that the last
Miessler Automotive in Germany sells a replacement valve block that it claims option of a wiring problem is the most
is of better quality than the original. This is because it is weatherproof and does likely. As you have fitted a new loom, I
not carry the risk of corrosion to which the original unit is susceptible. While it would concentrate on the connections.
does not look exactly like the original unit, it will fit in place. I believe this is the The most common wiring problem to
same unit being sold by the US outlet. I did find the manufacturer’s website at produce the code ‘P0741’ is if the circuit
https://bit.ly/2zinqvwa and dealing directly with them should ensure you get shorts to earth. With this in mind, I would
the correct part. The cost of the unit is €169 plus €22 postage. At the present also check for anywhere the loom may
currency exchange rate, this works out at £168 including delivery, but you will have rubbed through. You should also
not have to pay any import duty– at least, until we actually leave the EU in 2020! inspect the connections to the gearbox
It may be possible to match the part number and vehicle listing on the site to speed sensor – a poor connection in
compare the unit to the one listed on the American site. this area can trick the ECU into believing
there is a variation in speed.

76 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics


VOLVO V40
V40 starting
problems
I have bought a 2003 Volvo V40
1.9 diesel from auction. It has
100,000 miles and a vague service
history. It was OK for a couple of days, then
developed a starting problem. Some days
it would start, others it would not. Twelve
months ago, it had a new AA battery and
it turns the engine over well. There is 12.7
volts on battery, 14.4V with engine idling.
On some days I can start the car easily. It
fires straight away and runs fine, not lumpy
or missing. During the day, the engine can
be restarted a number of times with no
problems. But if left for 2-3 hours, it may
or may not start. Once in ‘no start’ mode,
it will then not start for the rest of the day.
Next day, it would start straight away!
Then, on another day, it might not start at
all. At all times cranking speed is good.
At first I thought it was an immobiliser
problem. On one of the first ‘no starts’, the
LEXUS RX450H
Dashcam drain
I had a Blackvue DR650S 2ch
front and rear camera system
professionally installed in my 2010
Lexus RX450h. I also fitted a Power Magic
Pro, which is set to power the cameras
until battery voltage reaches 12V, after
which they close down. This morning, the
cameras closed down and I checked the
battery voltage with a multimeter, which
read 11.75V. The car initialised the hybrid
battery and started OK. If the alarm is also
drawing current, how long can I leave the
car before it flattens the 12V battery?
I tested the battery using my Sealey
digital battery tester, which claimed the
battery was at 47% capacity and just
needed a charge. I think the battery
state is caused by me only making short
journeys. If I change the battery, what
would you recommend? I believe that the
battery CCA is unimportant as it is the
hybrid battery that starts the engine. The
original battery was made by Panasonic,
but I have not been able to find one of
these outside of Lexus/Toyota main
dealers. The battery currently fitted is a
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
immobiliser flashed at me for five seconds
before going out. Then the next day it
started OK. Since then, the immobiliser
light will come for 3-4 seconds and then
go out, as per the handbook. There is no
management light illuminated. When I try to
use my basic code reader, it comes up ‘link
error’, so I think it's not OBD-II compliant.
I think I might have a fuel supply problem.
On my Vectra C petrol, when I turn on the
ignition I can hear the in-tank fuel pump run
for about five seconds then switch off as the
fuel gets to pressure. On the Volvo I can hear
nothing, not even with the rear seat removed
and my ear three inches from the pump.
When the car won’t start, I turn off
the ignition and disconnect the fuel pipe
where it goes into the high-speed pump,
turn on the ignition and nothing comes out
of the pipe. If I crank the engine, nothing
comes out. If I squeeze the priming pump,
fuel comes out. When the car does start,
if I turn off the ignition and disconnect
the pipe, nothing comes out. If I start the
engine, it runs on the fuel in the high-
pressure pump for a minute or two, then
stops and nothing comes out of the pipe.
Connect the pipe again and it starts again.
If I put a meter across the tank pump,
I get 845 on the 200 ohm scale (84.5?).
There is an earth on one of the wires to
the tank and, when I switch the ignition on,
I get 8-volts on the other.
The condition of the 12V battery is
concerning the owner of this hybrid Lexus.
Lion 068 12V 70Ah, which was new when
I got the vehicle 21 months ago.
I’m considering charging the battery
every month. My only concern is when I go
on holiday, although I do have a Halfords
power pack and a Ring lithium jump-
starter that I could leave in the boot.
Dave Brown
The Power Magic Pro is adjustable
and I would advise setting the
power cut-off point to 12.5V.
This will give a margin of error and allow
the battery to continue to maintain the
required current for the vehicle systems.
The current draw of the Blackvue
camera system is listed as ‘Avg. 400
mA (4.8W at 12V, when GPS and Wi-Fi
is on)’. The formula to establish the
runtime of the appliance is 10 times the
battery capacity (in Ah) divided by the
load in watts; this will equal the runtime
Help!
I have no wiring diagram for this model
and Haynes does not cover diesel. Should
there be 12-volts at the pump and should
I be able to hear it run? Is there a fuel
pump relay that may be faulty and, if so,
where is it? Do you think I have a fuel
supply fault? I believe that when it starts,
the high-pressure pump is sucking fuel
out of the fuel tank. When it doesn’t
start, the high-pressure pump just can’t
manage it. Or am I going mad?
Roger Poore
From your description and
from the tests you have already
carried out, the problems do
seem to be associated with the low-
pressure fuel pump.
According to my wiring diagram, the
feed for the fuel pump should be in the
passenger fusebox, position number
17. The feed wire to the pump is blue
and the fuel gauge wires are yellow and
yellow/black. There should be a 12V
supply to the pump feed wire.
I would start by checking the feed at
the fuse to ensure a 12V supply is present.
I would also check the main fuel pump
relay in the engine compartment fuse/
relay box. As all of the power supplies
are controlled by the ECU, it would be
worth checking the system using a
dedicated Volvo diagnostics reader.
in hours. So, your 70Ah battery x 10 =
700 – dividing this by the camera drain
at 4.8W should give a runtime of 145
hours. Of course, the battery should
never be drained by more than 50%
of its capacity, so this figure should be
halved to 72.5 hours.
I cannot find a definitive figure on the
drain of the alarm, but I would expect
this to be relatively low, allowing the
vehicle to stand for three weeks with
a good battery. It would be better to
preserve the battery by turning off the
camera when parked for long periods.
Although the hybrid battery will start
the engine, it should not be relied on.
I have worked on a Lexus hybrid with a
flat battery that wouldn’t start under its
own hybrid battery power. If the hybrid
battery is not charged sufficiently, the
vehicle battery will be needed. It will
certainly not hurt to charge your battery
regularly using a charger, and keeping
the jump-starter in the boot would also
be a good option.
When purchasing a battery, you
should pay attention to the CCA (cold
cranking amps), as this is a good
indication of the quality and build of the
battery. You will also find that some of
the 068 batteries available are listed as
75Ah and this higher output would also
be beneficial, especially if the vehicle is
left for longer periods.
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 77
Help!

TOYOTA COROLLA

TOYOTA PRIUS Tyres & plugs

Changing pads I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla Verso 1.8 T Spirit auto with 124,000 miles. The
last MOT was a pass with no work required. I am using Pirelli P1 tyres, all
purchased and fitted at the same time. I have covered 14,000 miles since
My 2006 Prius T-Spirit has
fitting them and tyre wear is down to 4mm. My previous tyres were Pirelli P6s and
covered 62,000 miles and the last
I covered 20,000 miles before needing to replace them. Would you expect there to
MOT advised replacing the front
be any difference in wear from two similar tyres and what alternative brand would
brake pads in the near future. I would
you suggest? My annual mileage has dropped from 10,000-12,000 miles per year to
normally have no hesitation in doing this
approximately 6000 miles; the reduction is mainly on motorway miles.
myself and have ordered a new set of
Also, my maintenance schedule shows that spark
Bosch pads for less than £23.
plugs should be inspected at every full service and
Having now read some internet stories
replaced every four years/40,000 miles for the
about this task, I am hesitating as the
normal type or every 60,000 miles for platinum
job is not quite as straightforward as
or iridium plugs. To date, my plugs have only been
with most cars. The brake fluid is under
replaced once in my ownership. As the vehicle is
permanent pressure, even without the
running well and with good economy, is it worth
engine running, and I have read that the
having the ECU checked and would that test show up
safest way is to either disconnect the
any fault in the plug performance?
12-volt battery or else remove two relays
Geoff Allen
which will cut power to the appropriate
pump. My key is not the smart type and
The Pirelli P1 tyre actually gets a better
should not need to be away from the car,
rating for wear than the P6, so I would
so perhaps I would just need to ensure the
expect there to be little difference between
key is not in its slot before starting work?
them. The fact that you are doing less motorway
Would I need a special tool in order to
miles is probably relevant. I always run Michelin
push back the brake pistons and could The difference in the tread
Pilot Sport 3s on my Toyota and found them to be a
I slacken the bleed nipples to allow the patterns between the P1 and P6
very good and long-lasting tyre.
brake fluid to flush out while pushing tyres is minimal.
Even though your engine is running smoothly and
back the pistons? There appears to be
appears to give no indication of a potential problem, I would replace the spark
a risk of dash warning lights coming on
plugs if the four years/40,000 miles has been covered since the last change. If
following pad renewal, so would I need a
one of the spark plugs should begin to fail, it could also damage the ignition coil
special code-clearing device for this? My
pack. Live data may show up the resistance levels of the spark plugs, but if they
local Toyota dealer has quoted £95 for
are due it would be best to renew them as a preventive measure.
replacing the pads, but I hope to avoid
paying this if possible and I am not sure if
other garages will have the correct code- work to allow the system to power down.
clearing device. Keep the remote fob away from the
TOYOTA YARIS
Alan Forshaw vehicle and do not open the doors while

As you have discovered, the

brake system on the Prius is
different to most vehicles in
the fact that it has an electronically-
operated hydraulic system, using direct
hydraulic pressure only when the vehicle
is stationary or moving below 7mph.
This system employs pressure sensors
on the master cylinder and the caliper,
checking for any difference in pressure
through the brake lines. Another
problem when working on the Prius is
that, if the ignition is on, the engine may
start at any time the vehicle systems
determine it is needed; for this reason,
the key should be away from the vehicle.
Because of the regenerative braking
system used on the Prius, the brake
pads should last a lot longer than would
be expected on a conventional vehicle,
but they will eventually need replacing.
With the keyless ignition arrangement,
before working on the brake system, you
are advised that the ignition must have
been off for at least two minutes prior to
working on the brake system. You should
also remove the two ABS relays from
the fusebox under the bonnet – these
relays should be blue. The rest of the
pad change should be the same as any
conventional vehicle.
Toyota advises gently pushing in the
caliper piston only enough to fit over the
new pads and shims. It is not necessary
to undo the bleed nipples during this
procedure and doing so could cause
more problems than it solves. After
fitting the pads, the brake pedal should
be pumped gently to locate the pads,
before replacing the ABS relays and
turning on the ignition.
When first turning on the ignition,
an ABS light may illuminate. Take the
vehicle for a short drive and then turn
off the ignition; when turning on again
the ABS system should self-test and
turn off the light. Toyota also says that it
is possible an ABS code (C1341/2) may
show up after the work has been carried
out and will need to be cleared using a
suitable scanner.
Illuminated
controls
I have a Toyota Yaris 1.4 diesel
and the audio lights on the
steering wheel have gone out. The
handbook gives no details about the fuses
that control them. If it is the bulbs that
have blown, how do I get them out?
Anthony Beasley
According to the information
I have, the controls on the
steering wheel on your vehicle
should not normally be backlit. If yours
were originally illuminated and are no
longer working then the problem may be
in the clockspring connection between
the steering wheel and steering column.
The illuminated switches in the Toyota
range do not have separate bulbs. If
your switches should be illuminated and
the fault is not in the connection to the
steering wheel, then new switches will
be needed.

78 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Help!

injector pump but there was no change

TOYOTA YARIS
Poor hot starting
My 2001 Toyota Yaris 1000cc is
very hard to start when hot. There
is no problem when it’s cold and
there here are no recorded fault codes.
Mr Swerno
If you have the device to read
off live data from the engine,
this would be my first move. As
the engine starts fine from cold and
runs well, the most likely problem is the
engine temperature sensor (ETC). If this
is giving false information to the control
systems it may affect the hot starting.
Another problem with some Yaris
engines was carbon build-up that
caused the valves to stick and reduce
compression when hot, making starting
difficult. Carry out a compression test to
ensure this is not the case.
Finally, the crankshaft position sensor
can cause a hot starting issue, but this
usually leaves behind a code.
TOYOTA COROLLA
Low on power
I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla D4D
with 170,000 miles. The car starts
up every time on the first turn of
the key and runs normally. The problem is
that it is way down in power – it’s slow to
build-up speed and when it comes to a hill
it falls back, in some cases a downshift or
two is necessary to get over the hill; on a
level road it is not too bad.
A new diesel filter and air filter have
been fitted with no change. Various
pipes going to and coming from the
turbocharger have been checked, but
there are no leaks. I fitted two valves to the
TOYOTA iQ
or improvement. I also got the car hooked
up to a diagnostic scanner at a Toyota
dealer, but no faults were logged. I have
fitted a new turbocharger and have tried
driving the car with the exhaust removed,
but there was no change. I then took off
the throttle body and checked the inlet
manifold to see if coke had built-up, but
it was fine. I was told that the intercooler
could be clogged, but intercoolers were
not fitted to this year of vehicle.
One unusual aspect of this problem
is that if you drive the car fairly hard up
through the gears, once it hits 2600-
2700rpm, you can feel it pick-up and drive
normally. However, once you go up to the
next gear, the revs drop and the car is back
in slowcoach mode. I took off the timing
cover to ensure the timing had not jumped
one cog, but it was fine.
Michael Carty
There are two components that
are a common problem on the
D4D engine, both of which will
often leave no code. The first is the EGR
valve, which is prone to sticking and can
become clogged with carbon. The EGR is
difficult to access on the D4D engine and
it may be worth attempting to clean it with
a dedicated spray before stripping it off.
The second component is the MAF sensor,
but the only way to check its operation is
with a ’scope. Cleaning the MAF sensor
using an isopropyl alcohol may help
rectify the problem. A short-term remedy
can often be found by unplugging the
MAF sensor and driving the vehicle. If
this proves conclusive, replacing the
MAF sensor would be advised.
If neither of these components is
found to be faulty, I would recommend
a compression test be carried out to
confirm that the compression is not
down, although if this was the case, I
would expect it to affect engine starting.
Have a
problem vehicle?
GET IN TOUCH...
If you have a problem vehicle, Car Mechanics
has the answer in the shape of our technical
editor STEVE ROTHWELL. Contact Steve,
as detailed below, for FREE advice on all
car-related problems. Please help Steve to
help you by giving as much information on
the symptoms as you can – including the
vehicle registration number.
As Help! is a free service, some complex
questions may require more time and
resources than we can reasonably allow –
when this is the case we will let you know.
Steve will reply to all queries as
quickly as possible, but please allow up
to 28 days for a reply. Difficult/complex
questions or those requiring research may
take a little longer – please be patient.
Neither H Bauer Publishing nor Steve
Rothwell can accept any liability for loss,
damage or injury resulting from replies to
readers’ queries.
To access the listed web addresses starting
with http://bit.ly just type these into your
browser address line, rather than the search
engine and they should work as intended.
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CAR MECHANICS
BAUER MEDIA, MEDIA HOUSE,
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PETERBOROUGH PE2 6EA
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carmechanicshelp@yahoo.co.uk
Please include your postal address
Sourcing vehicle manuals
X Most CM readers will know that
Haynes publish the bibles for automotive
mechanics with their authoritative line of
owners workshop manuals. The Haynes
website at Haynes.com should always

Locking concern be your first port of call when searching

for a manual. And if there isn’t a specific
manual available for your particular model,
When my mum locks her 2012 Toyota iQ, if
it’s worth checking whether your engine
you then check the doors to make sure they
was fitted to any other vehicles, as this will
are locked, the door opens. Is this normal? give you basic servicing and maintenance
Jayne Newbury advice. It’s also worth emailing Haynes and
asking if they have a manual in the works
The keyless entry system on the iQ2 for your vehicle. And bear in mind that
does mean that if you have the remote fob on you when you pull the door Haynes are now producing video tutorials
handle, it will unlock. Locking can also be achieved by touching the two for various makes and models.
small ridges at the top of the handle, without the need to press the fob. Failing that, you may be able to find
Keyless entry can take a bit of getting used to if you like to check that the a workshop manual online that you can
download. Although there are a number
vehicle is locked before walking away. This can only be achieved if the fob is
of sites offering this service, care must be
not on your person and not within close vicinity to the vehicle. If the locks can taken to find a reliable source. We have
be heard operating when the remote is pressed or the handle touched then the found the website emanualonline.com is a
vehicle should be securely locked. trusted source of digital manuals.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 79

 Steve Rothwell answering your ENGINE MANAGEMENT queries
AUDI TT
Scan tool
My question is, what basic
diagnostic scan tool would you
recommend for a 2011 Audi TT
with 2.0 TFSI petrol engine?
The EPC light has started to come
on, sometimes with another light, stays
for a while and then goes off. The car
operates perfectly when the light/s come
on, although last time the driver’s door
wouldn’t open! Up until now I have never
needed to use a scan tool, but having
subscribed to Car Mechanics for some
years and read other people’s experiences
it was only a matter of time.
I would like a basic scan tool that
will clear stored faults and give a broad
indication of where the problem might
be. As I have no idea where many of the
sensors/connectors are on this car (not
mine) anything more complicated will
have to be done by a professional. From
the scant info I’ve given if you have any
ideas on what the cause of the problem
might be, or if there is a back issue of CM
that dealt with Audi electrical diagnostics
(I couldn’t find one) that would be a bonus.
Phil Cooney
I would first
mention that
I am unsure if
basic scan tool will read
EPC problems as whilst
the Electronic Power
Control system does
indicate a fault in the
throttle control systems
it may also be indicating
a problem with the
traction control or ABS related systems.
For this reason I would recommend
a scanner that can read all the vehicle
systems and the Foxwell NT520 Pro Full
Systems for VAG cars priced at £155
would do this. It is available from this
website http://bit.ly/CM8fCRs
With regard to what the problem may
be, the most common is throttle body
failure, but faults in the ABS system
including a poor brake light switch or
ABS ring failure could be the cause, as
could a fault in one of the wiring looms.
Although we did cover Audi TT Mk1
1.8T servicing in the December 2018
edition, and a Used Car Focus on the TT
Mk2 in the November 2017 edition, we
have not yet done a diagnostics feature.
80 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
FORD TRANSIT CONNECT
Cutting-out
My brother-in-law has bought a 2006 Transit Connect 1.8 with 180k miles. When
pulling away quickly I noticed as I followed behind him quite a lot of black smoke,
which cleared after 30 yards or so. On driving from Darlington to Tyneside (about
35 miles) on the motorway at a steady 55mph, the engine cut out seven times. When this
happened the glow plug symbol lit up on the dashboard.
After a quick off-on with the ignition key it runs fine – until it does it again. The van is
parked on his drive at home until we can get it sorted. Thank you for your advice.
Steve Wooldridge
The glow plug light illuminating indicates a fault is logged in the vehicle’s ECU.
This is also confirmed as turning the ignition off and then on again momentarily
will clear the fault and return the engine to its normal running state.
The black smoke may or may not be related, but the source of the light needs to
be established first. This may be due to a faulty sensor or sticking turbo actuator
causing an over-boost code – one of the more common reasons.
Another easily checked cause of the problem is the intercooler hoses which do
have a habit of splitting. They are short, and any split will normally be revealed by the
presence of oil around the fracture. If a failed hose is found then I would replace both
hoses to prevent further problems.
If it is not caused by an intercooler hose the first thing to do is to retrieve the fault
codes from the ECU using a suitable code reader. As the vehicle was built after 2004
any generic EOBD code reader will be able to retrieve the codes.
MERCEDES-BENZ E-CLASS
Stop-start system
I have 2015 Mercedes-Benz E220 Type 207 diesel coupé which has done about
61,000 miles. The engine number is 65191133038361. In Economy mode the
stop-start system has always worked very well, but recently this has changed so
that it may only function after an hour or more going reasonably fast. After a recent long
run, it seemed back to normal, but now it’s again only cutting in after a long time. When it
does function, it soon ceases to do so.
I understand that the battery life of a car with stop-start is typically about four years,
and this car is just over the four-year mark. Is there any cause other than battery decline
which is likely to be causing this?
If a test shows that a new battery is required, can the change be done easily by keeping
a slave battery on the jump-start points to keep all the settings, or does the new battery
need to be coded somehow to the vehicle?
John Foxon
You have highlighted the most likely cause of the stop-start system operation
occurring only after a longer run. This is when the battery has also had the
best charge and will be in its optimum condition.
Your Mercedes is possibly also fitted with an auxiliary battery and, depending on
the version, it is often recommended to replace both at the same time. I would also
add from my own experience that although the batteries are not cheap, the main
dealer is normally very competitive on price and this also ensures you have the exact
specification battery.
The battery may be fitted with a battery monitor attached directly to the
terminal but according to Autodata this does not need any reprogramming. The
only cautionary note is that when the main battery is disconnected an LED test
lamp should be placed between the + and – terminals on the leads to test for any
faults in the onboard systems. If the light illuminates the auxiliary battery should be
disconnected before replacing the main battery.
When fitting the new battery, no special operations are needed.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
 Diagnostics Doctor

HONDA ACCORD AIR INTAKE

TEMPERATURE

MAF sensor
I’d like to clean the MAF sensor on my MAP
2005 Accord 2.4 petrol, but I can’t SENSOR
identify it. I’ve attached a couple of
Diagnostics Doctor is a FREE helpline
pictures to see if you can spot it. Most sources service for CM readers – including
on YouTube show it attached to the intake trade readers – who are struggling with
trunking just as it leaves the air filter box, but this is not the case on my Honda. diagnostic/engine management related
However, if you follow the intake trunking from right to left there’s a sensor of some faults. Steve Rothwell will answer all
sort just before the throttle body. It doesn’t look big enough to me to be a MAF your queries. He will need as much
sensor and I think it may be the MAP sensor. Perhaps you can shed some light on it? detail as possible:
Also, is it possible to clean the throttle body while leaving it in place? Or would it MAKE, MODEL, YEAR, ENGINE CODE
be better to unbolt it and perhaps leave the coolant pipes still attached? I’ve seen and NUMBER PLATE of your vehicle –
and the type of management system
people push the throttle valve open and I’m wondering if this is OK as it’s a throttle-
installed. Obviously, Steve will not be
by-wire system. Would this damage the stepper motor? Many thanks for your advice. able to assess the vehicle up close, so
Gary Mills his answer will be on the basis solely of
your description. This is a FREE service
The sensor you can see is the intake air temperature sensor; the MAP and it may take some time to respond
sensor is slightly further down and in the inlet manifold. To sense the to certain problems. If you would like
manifold pressure the sensor has to be on the inlet port side of the to receive a personal response via post,
throttle body. Your Honda does not have a MAF sensor and the ECU controls please enclose an SAE.
the fuel input using data inputted by the throttle body, air intake sensor, MAP Write to:
sensor, O2 sensors etc. DIAGNOSTICS DOCTOR
This of course makes the decision on whether or not to clean the MAF an easy CAR MECHANICS
one. You do not mention why you are thinking about cleaning the throttle body, and BAUER MEDIA, MEDIA HOUSE
unless you have specific problems I would leave it in place and use a cleaning spray. LYNCHWOOD
If you are having specific problems then perhaps a more thorough clean may be PETERBOROUGH
required, but I would still think it unnecessary to start pushing the valve open. PE2 6EA
If it is removed you have access to both sides without the need to risk damage e-mail:
by physically moving the butterfly valve. cmdiagnostics@yahoo.co.uk

VAUXHALL INSIGNIA Common abbreviations

Fault code ATS Air Temperature Sensor

AFM Air-Flow Meter – not a MAF type (see below).
It could be, for example, a vane type

after remap CAS Crank Angle Sensor

CPS Crank Position Sensor
I have a 2011 Vauxhall Insignia SRi CTS Coolant Temperature Sensor
2.0 CDTi with 50,500 miles and a ECT Engine Coolant Temperature
full service history. I had the ECU ECU Electronic Control Unit
remapped and, after about 250 miles, it went into ‘limp-home’ mode as I was accelerating EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation – meters exhaust
hard through the gears. Then the ‘service vehicle soon’ message illuminated on the gas back to the intake manifold
display, so I pulled over and restarted the car and it ran OK after that. EML Engine Management Light
When I got home I read the fault codes and a number came up and I cleared them all. EMS Engine Management System
I then drove the car for 350 miles, including towing a caravan for 110 of those miles, and EPC Electronic Power Control
no more problems occurred until today, when it went into ‘limp-home’ mode again when FCR Fault Code Reader
accelerating hard through the gears and displayed the ‘service’ message. Restarting the car HT High Tension – ignition output to the spark plugs
cleared everything, but the only fault code now showing is ‘P0087 – fuel rail low pressure’. IAV Idle Air Valve
I think that the fault appearing after the remap is coincidental, but I can’t rule it out. ISCV Idle Speed Control Valve – usually operated by
Craig Christie a motor controlled by the ECU
LOS Limited Operating Strategy – if the ECU detects
a malfunction, it runs a programme to allow the
As you say, the remap and the error code may not be connected, but it’s car to still go, but at reduced efficiency
not possible to rule it out without knowing the parameters that were reset. MAF Mass Air-Flow meter
‘P0087’ is not one of the codes listed by Autodata as a common problem
MAP Manifold Air Pressure
on your Insignia and may be being triggered for a number of reasons related to the
MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp
fuel pressure: the fuel pump may be failing or there could be an issue with the fuel
PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation – takes crankcase
pressure regulator. Another possible cause could be a restriction in the fuel line. gases and recycles back to the inlet system
As a first step, I would replace the fuel filter, checking the contents of the old filter TBPS Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor – used by the
carefully for any signs of tiny metal particles – this could be an indication of a failing ECU to regulate turbo output
fuel pump. Provided nothing untoward is found, the next step would be to check the TPS Throttle Position Sensor
fuel pressure regulator. With the connector plug to the regulator disconnected, using VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor
an ohmmeter between the terminals should produce a reading from the solenoid of WOT Wide Open Throttle
3.6 ohms – any variation from this reading could indicate that the solenoid is faulty.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 81

 Electronic RENAULT
CLIO

Diagnostics
Tracing and fixing faults in electronic engine management systems
1.5
dCi

Renault’s diesel-powered Clios can be

attractive secondhand buys. All good so
far, but how do they fare diagnostically?
Kim Henson and Edward Haggar find
out, looking closely at a 2009 example…
NOTE: All references in our text and

R
emarkably, it is almost exactly
captions to ‘left’ and right’ sides are from the
30 years since the first Renault point of view of someone sitting in the car and looking ahead.
Clio appeared. It was launched
at the Paris Motor Show in and in 2006 the model was awarded the
the summer of 1990, with UK sales European Car of the Year title.
starting in the following spring. Ever A facelift was applied in the spring of
since then, and through five generations 2009, improving equipment levels and the
so far, this hatchback supermini model quality of materials used within the car.
has been a popular buy in Britain and Here we are taking the diagnostic lid
around Europe, being applauded for its off a third-generation 2009 Clio dating
practicality, comfort and commendable from July 2009. This is powered by
Online
fuel consumption. Sporting versions have the proven ‘K9K’ type four-cylinder, discount code:
always been praised for their dynamic 8-valve, 1.5-litre dCi (standing for ‘direct Mechanics10
performance, and have achieved modern common-rail injection’) turbodiesel www.launchtech.co.uk
classic status in their own time too. engine, developed jointly by Renault
Third-generation Clios arrived in and Nissan. The first examples of this
2005, with the newcomers being built motor appeared in 2001, with successive Preparation
on a platform developed in conjunction versions being improved through the These engines are extremely reliable if
with Nissan. In fact, Nissan’s Micra years in terms of performance potential, well-maintained and you keep on top
and Note use the same underbody fuel consumption and emissions. Ian of the ‘niggly’ jobs – such as dealing
architecture as the Clio and the Vaughan, who has owned from new the with/keeping at bay the ‘green death’
contemporary Renault Modus. car we photographed, reports that it corrosion (see Fault 1).
The Clio was rated with five stars in consistently returns more than 60mpg Apart from the difficult-to-reach fuel
the EuroNCAP safety rating scheme, in real-world motoring. filter location this Clio is an excellent
car for the do-it-yourself mechanic – it
is just so easy to work on. However, note
Tool of choice that the oil filter sits ‘upside down’, so
oil can escape and make a bit of a mess
X The Launch X431 Euro Tab II diagnostic tool is when you are changing it.
perfect for use with this Clio. On being connected Cambelt renewal requires the use of
via the diagnostic socket, the equipment locking pins, though these are cheap to
automatically identifies the actual vehicle and
its main drivetrain components. The operator
buy if you look around.
can then set the tool to display a wide variety A useful little tip,
of screenshots, including (for example) those as advised by Edward:
relating to system components/computers whenever servicing these
present around the vehicle, live data – plus Clios, clean and oil the
injector codes and performance (and so on). subframe bolts at the same
In addition, the tool can easily and rapidly
time. This makes future
be set up so that the operator can operate
individual systems and components remotely
clutch changes so much
(by Bluetooth). easier – and this applies
The Launch equipment can be used for a wide to any car requiring
variety of other makes and models too. subframe removal for a
clutch change.

www.launchtech.co.uk
01752 344 989

82 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics


Typical Renault Clio components
The negative earth or ground
1 terminal of the battery is connected
via the short cable visible in this shot to
the front of the left-hand front suspension
tower. It is vital that the connections
are clean, sound and secure; frequently/
regularly check these aspects.
3 To the left of the battery (and in
the centre of this shot) is Renault’s
UCH body control module assembly/
underbonnet fuse and relay box,
incorporating a lid secured by two Torx
screws (T27). Trouble can arise within this
assembly. Keep moisture at bay!
X A clean air filter element helps
6 the inherently efficient Renault
diesel engine to breathe. This filter
element has done its job and is due for
replacement. Its housing is located at the
top of the engine bay, left side. Release
the lid’s two clips, withdraw element,
clean debris/leaves from inside housing;
install new element, re-fit lid.
www.launchtech.co.uk
01752 344 989
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Electronic Diagnostics RENAULT CLIO 1.5 dCi
The positive terminal assembly
2 incorporates vital electrical fuses.
Take great care if ever jump-starting to
ensure that the correct specified procedures
are adopted (consult the handbook), or you
may blow a critical fuse. Always remember
to connect the negative terminal last.
4 The vehicle’s main ECU is located
high up towards the rear of the
engine compartment, on the left-hand
side, and attached to the left-hand front
suspension tower. In this position it is
out of the way of most road spray and
airborne moisture.
W This underbonnet fusebox/
5 junction box assembly is at the front
of the engine bay, on the left side, and
vulnerable to moisture/dirt penetration.
Remove the cover and carefully clean the
internal components. WEARING GOGGLES,
gently wire-brush away corrosion from
the main cable connection, and coat with
silicone grease for future protection.
Fault 1:
ELECTRICAL
CONTINUITY FAILURE
This problem can raise its ugly head in
many areas of the vehicle, so is not a fault
restricted to a specific component. Often
referred to in the trade as ‘green death’, it
can affect any Renault models of this era,
and is not restricted just to diesel versions.
Edward has seen, for example, ‘no
start’ situations due to corrosion
affecting starter terminals No.15 and 30,
and the screen wipers operating without
being switched on…
He advises that such corrosion can
cause very strange faults, and that when
carrying out checks it should be borne in
mind that if it is affecting a supply line,
a diagnostic assessment may throw up
numerous sensor fault codes, since the
supply cables are shared.
Edward recommends frequent
inspection of the wiring/connections,
and checking for signs of green, or indeed
any, corrosion. A good cleaning of the
affected sections, and a coating of light
grease or silicone grease will prevent the
problem from worsening. If excessive
corrosion is discovered, replacement
of the cables and/or connection plugs/
sockets may be necessary.
Fault 2:
CHOKED FUEL FILTER
The requirement for extended cranking
of the engine/non-starting may be
due to a blocked fuel filter. Due to its
location within the right-hand inner/
outer wing void, to gain access to it
requires removal of the road wheel and
inner wheelarch liner.
A simple test is to check the live actual
values via the tester equipment and
observe the fuel pressure being indicated
– you should see 200+ bar when cranking.
Anything a lot less than this shows either
low fuel pressure or indicates that the
pressure is being lost en route.
If available, you could employ a fuel
pressure tester to check the pressure
at different points in the system, to
pinpoint the fault. However, if there is
no known history of the fuel filter having
been changed, renew it regardless.
Edward recommends renewing the
filter at least annually. When renewing
the filter, note that the fuel pipes and the
filter are colour-coded.
May 2020 pCar Mechanics 83
Electronic Diagnostics RENAULT CLIO 1.5 dCi

A useful aspect of the system as fitted to
this Renault is that the company installed
a hand-operated ‘bulb type’ primer within
the right-hand side of the engine bay. If
the system needs to be primed, simply
squeeze the bulb to draw up fuel (when
the bulb is full, it will feel solid).
Fault 3:
STICKING EGR VALVE
If it’s necessary to crank the engine
excessively before it will start, and if the
engine management warning light is
illuminated, while the engine also lacks
power (the driver may say that it feels as if
it’s ‘holding back’), the problem lies with
the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve
sticking. This will be because the valve is
clogged/coked-up, resulting in either too
much air flow, or a lack of air flow.
The stored fault code will likely be
P100C ‘Exhaust gas recirculation valve
position sensor circuit’. If your test
equipment allows, carry out a function
check on the EGR to establish if there is
any movement.
It’s worth removing and cleaning the
Engine
valve, rather than just renewing. If you management
do have to fit a new EGR, install a high-
quality component. Remember too that The management system
it will then be necessary to carry out a used on this Clio incorporates
‘re-learn’ operation via the diagnostic tool. these components:
X Multiplug ECU
X Coolant temperature sensor
Fault 4: X EGR valve with built-in
position sensor
WINDOW WINDER X MAP sensor
MOTOR OR SWITCH X Solenoid-type fuel injectors
Annoying faults are often encountered X Accelerator pedal sensor
with electrics on Renaults of this era. X Throttle position sensor
In particular the powered door window X Engine control relay
operating motors and switches are prone X Glow plug (one per cylinder)
to failure. A simple test is to remove X Crankshaft and camshaft
the relevant door card/trim panel – and sensors
while using a voltmeter – check for X Pedal-mounted clutch
power supply to the motor when the position sensor
switch is operated either way (up or X High-pressure pump –
down). If a voltage supply is found, the driven via cambelt
motor is at fault, but if there is no supply X Low pressure turbo
evident, the switch has failed.

Typical Renault Clio components

The air mass sensor, located within the intake trunking, monitors/ The cambelt-driven high-pressure diesel fuel pump is
7 evaluates the mass (rate) of air passing through the system, 8 usually reliable on these dCi engines. A special locking tool
feeding this information to the ECU which uses this data as one of the is required for setting the camshaft and crankshaft timing, but
determining factors in setting fuelling levels at any given moment. this implement is inexpensive to buy.

Installed right at the back of the
9 engine compartment is the EGR valve
assembly and the EGR valve cooler (just
beneath it). If enough time is available,
at each service remove the EGR valve and
clean it, extending its life and ensuring
continuing good fuel economy.
The mass absolute pressure (MAP)
10 sensor, visible in the centre of this
photograph, keeps tabs on the pressure
within the inlet manifold, delivering this
information to the ECU – which in turn uses
this to calculate/adjust fuelling levels as
required, at all times.
The grey component shown here
11 (found just to the left of the MAP
sensor) is the air temperature sensor.
It provides the ECU with ambient air
temperature information, helping ensure
that appropriate quantities of fuel are
delivered at all times.

www.launchtech.co.uk
01752 344 989

84 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Electronic Diagnostics RENAULT CLIO 1.5 dCi

Typical Clio components TECHNICAL SPECS

W The fuel injectors
12 are positioned at the Actual values
top of the engine and normally Component Value
concealed by a cover. On this
car the injectors are still the Fuel/injection
pump assembly Delphi
original units, operating as
they should. If new injectors Pump type Common rail
are fitted they must be coded Injection sequence 1-3-4-2
to the vehicle using suitable
diagnostic equipment. Injector nozzle Delphi
Fuel injectors 0.2 ohms
13 X This is the ‘Smart
Box’ for the Launch
Nozzle opening pressure bar1400
X431 Euro Tab II, plugged Intake air temperature
into the diagnostic socket (IAT) sensor 20°C 2353-2543 ohms
on the Clio; the socket is Coolant temperature sensor –10°C 11,370-13,630 ohms
located at the base of the 80°C 272-288 ohms
facia on the right-hand EGR solenoid 8 ohms
side of the centre console.
The Launch tooling works EGR valve position
across a wide range of sensor pins 2-4 2400-5600 ohms
makes and models.

W When plugged in to the

14 diagnostic socket, the Launch unit
connects and conducts an ‘auto search’
for the model, in this case producing a
screen shot giving information such as
the VIN code, plus engine and gearbox
types. This applies to Renault and many
other vehicles, but not all makes/models.

X By means of a full system scan,

15 the Launch diagnostic equipment
provides the operator with an overall
‘health check’ view identifying all the
computers installed around the vehicle,
so that each can then be diagnostically
interrogated individually.

W This Clio is
17 still fitted with its
original fuel injectors,
but the Launch tool can
be used to identify and
The Launch communicates directly programme/code new
16 with the ECU, so that the operator injectors to the vehicle,
can control/switch individual systems and if ever they need to be
components, using the tool. This screen- renewed. This is a data
shot shows data relating to the Clio’s body stream screenshot relating
control unit (UCH in Renault terminology). to injector performance…

W …and this screen view is highlighting the same injector fuel flow rates
18 in bar graph format. This enables the operator to see at a glance if all the
injectors are working at the same level, and identifying any problem areas. The
operator can save this information and return to it later.

X The Launch equipment

19 incorporates the facility to display
a ‘special functions’ screen, from which
the operator is able to re-programme
components if required. These functions
can be useful if, for instance, you renew
the battery and it needs recoding, or the
DPF filter needs regenerating, etc.

www.launchtech.co.uk
01752 344 989

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 85

Electronic Diagnostics RENAULT CLIO 1.5 dCi

RENAULT CLIO CIRCUIT DIAGRAM www.autodata-group.com

30
15
X28-I

X28-III X28-V X28-V

K46 F22 F2
F2 F5 K79-I
30A 60A
F24 20A 70A

CAN-H
CAN-L
10A

ws (el)
vi (el)
A11-I
A A A5
3 6 7 5
A81 A75 X1
2 4 6 14
H63
1 5 1 2 7 6 12 10 5 2 A A
A H H H C D D D D A

br (og)
CAN-H el (br)
CAN-H ws
ws

gn
gn

CAN-L vi
vi

rt

CAN-L
CAN-H
CAN-L
ws

ws

ws
gn

gn
rs
rt

CAN-H
CAN-L
B132 Y151
Y63 Y196 Y141 B138 B161
1 B82 3 2 2 B31 2 B149
3 4
A104 B30 B25
6 7 1 2 8 9 1 2 6 5
2 3 1 2 1 1 1 2 3 4 5 2 1 6 B C A 6 1 5 4
ws

ws

ws

ws

ws

ws
sw
gn

ge

og

og

og

gn

gn

gn

og

og
og
og
br

br
gr

gr

gr
rs
rs

rs

rs
el
vi

vi

vi

vi

vi
vi
vi
vi
vi
vi
C C A B B B B C C C B C B B C B B A A B B A A A A A A C C C B B B B B
f2 d3 d1 k2 a3 a2 a1 f1 f3 e2 m4 g2 e3 e2 h2 m2 k4 a4 a3 g2 g3 g2 h2 h3 f2 f3 f4 c4 c3 g3 m3 l3 b1 b2 b3
A=sw B=br C=gr A35 A=sw B=br C=gr
a4 b4 g4 h4 c4 d4 e4 f4 f2 f3 c4 d3 d1 d2 k1 f1 g1 a4 a3 h2 h3 c3 c2 c1 h1 g4 h4 g3 e4 c3 a2 d3 d2
B B B B B B B B B B A B B B B B B C C B B B B B A A A A A A A A A
ws
ws

sw
sw
sw
sw
og

gn

og

gn

gn

og

og

og
og
br

br
gr

gr

gr

gr

gr
rs

el
vi
ws

og
gn
br

gr

rs
el
vi

gn
og
el
vi
1 1 1 1 1 2
S258 3 1 2 3
2 1 2 3 2
2 3 1 45 33 B1 A3 1 2
B26 A57 S214 S79

R5-I R5-III
2 2 2 2 B54 1 B69 B24 B105 S13
R5-II R5-IV Y3-I Y3-II Y3-III Y3-IV
sw
ws

ws

ws

ws

31
EP4 303792 EP3

CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION CODE COMPONENT DESCRIPTION

A5 INSTRUMENT PANEL B138 ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION (APP) S79 CRUISE CONTROL MASTER SWITCH
A11-IMULTI-FUNCTION CONTROL MODULE | 1 SENSOR
S214 CRUISE CONTROL REVERSING SWITCH
A35 ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM) B149 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) VALVE
POSITION SENSOR S258 CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION (CPP) SWITCH
A57 TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE (TCM) X1 DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC)
B161 AC REFRIGERANT PRESSURE SENSOR
A75 INSTRUMENTATION CONTROL MODULE X28-I FUSEBOX/RELAY PLATE, ENGINE BAY
CAN-L CONTROLLER AREA NETWORK (DATA BUS)
A81 POWER STEERING CONTROL MODULE LOW Y3-I INJECTOR 1
A104 GLOW PLUG CONTROL MODULE CAN-H CONTROLLER AREA NETWORK (DATA BUS) Y3-II INJECTOR 2
B24 ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) HIGH
SENSOR EP EARTH POINT Y3-III INJECTOR 3
B25 INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR F FUSE Y3-IV INJECTOR 4
B26 FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE SENSOR H63 ENGINE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP Y63 FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR CONTROL
(MIL) SOLENOID
B30 MASS AIR FLOW (MAF) SENSOR
B31 FUEL TEMPERATURE SENSOR K46 ENGINE CONTROL (EC) RELAY Y141 EXHAUST GAS CONTROL SOLENOID
B54 CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR K79-I IGNITION MAIN CIRCUITS RELAY | 1 Y151 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) VALVE
R5-I GLOW PLUG 1 ACTUATOR
B69 KNOCK SENSOR (KS)
R5-II GLOW PLUG 2 Y196 TURBOCHARGER (TC) CONTROL SOLENOID
B82 FUEL/WATER SEPARATOR SENSOR
R5-III GLOW PLUG 3 15 IGNITION SWITCH - IGNITION ON
B105 TURBOCHARGER (TC) BOOST PRESSURE
SENSOR R5-IV GLOW PLUG 4 30 BATTERY +
B132 CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR S13 BRAKE PEDAL POSITION (BPP) SWITCH 31 BATTERY -

www.launchtech.co.uk
01752 344 989

86 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 431 EURO TAB II
The flagship diagnostic tool from Launch UK

13MP Camera with flash

Rugged &
Docking station with USB
and charging port
Multi-function wireless
Smart Box 3
Waterproof to IP65

With additional one-year software update worth £470, and two-year warranty

Euro Tab II features:

• Support for ADAS functions
• New, multi-mode Smart Box 3
• 24V truck diagnostic compatible
• Integrated Haynes Pro electronic data
• Comprehensive on-tool programming
for leading German manufacturers
• J2534-1/2 Pass-thru programming
by subscription to the VM’s websites
• Support for DOIP communication protocols

01752 344 989

enquiries@launchtech.co.uk www.launchtech.co.uk
 Our Cars
Ian
Cushway
Special Contributor

Pulling out
the stoppers

W
hen the undertray was off to
do the service on my 2006
Volkswagen Transporter T5,
I noticed fair bit of corrosion
on the front subframe. So, when it was
in for its last oil and filter service, I took
the opportunity to rub it down and apply
some anti-rust treatment. I repeated the
process at the back, where I had spotted
that rust had broken through the factory
matt black paint.
While underneath, I noticed that the
spare wheel was missing. This explains
why the van had a sophisticated-looking glowing. On inspection I discovered in release agent, even with a short
puncture repair kit stashed under the that the rear pads were worn, although extension bar they were impossible to
rear seat. Presumably it was specified having seen the extent of the rust on the undo. I guess they’re the original discs,
from new instead of the spare, for some front discs – yes, we’re back to the rust and the bolts had seized solid. This is
reason. I’ve tried foam-type puncture issue again – I decided to replace the where compressed air and having the
remedies on bike punctures before front rotors and pads at the same time. vehicle on a lift is the only way to go.
and the results haven’t been all that Again, Heritage Parts Centre was With the new parts fitted by a local
successful. Not just that, I was worried able to supply quality replacement garage, the bus came to a halt with
about the prospect of suffering a blowout. parts much cheaper than a main dealer. confidence – but after around 1000kms,
Now you can’t tell me a load of messy Replacing the discs and pads on a T5 I noticed a worrying judder from the
foam would cure that. As a precaution, is usually relatively straightforward, front. Alas, removing the new discs
then, I bought a spare wheel with tyre so I got the vehicle up on axle stands, revealed corrosion on the hub beneath
and the necessary cradle and bolts off removed the wheels and set about what and this was making the discs run out
eBay. A worthwhile fitment, I’d say. I expected to be a three-hour job at most. of true. There was nothing else for it but
However, having got a tool on the first buy a new set of discs and pads and do
of the two Torx T10 fittings holding the whole job again (myself ), this time
Braking bad the caliper, I decided to bolt everything removing the light coating of rust with
Having done this, the next week I noticed back on and get someone else to do it. emery cloth and applying a light smear
the brake wear dash warning light was The problem was, having soaked them of copper-based grease.

The brakes were effective enough, and there

The front subframe had lots of surface rust, so I wire-brushed it, treated was still meat on the discs – but with this
the metal with rust inhibitor, then applied an aerosol wax rust treatment. amount of corrosion on the outer edge they
definitely needed renewing.

88 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Our Cars Ian Cushway

In my garage
2008 VW Passat Estate 2.0 TDI I was attracted by its immaculate Tornado Red paintwork,
but there have been a few teething problems with my budget-buy Passat; notably a glowing emissions
light and a faulty camshaft position sensor. With the latter sorted, it’s coming into its own now, though.

This tyre air compressor kit came with the

vehicle. But why the first owner would have
opted for this instead of a proper spare remains
a mystery. The cradle underneath the van was
missing too, but I managed to find one on eBay.

A slight hesitation
In true one-step-forward, one-step-back
fashion, now something strange is going
on under the bonnet. Occasionally at
a junction with the engine at idle, the
tickover will suddenly become very
lumpy and there will be a distinct whiff of
exhaust fumes in the cabin. It has never
actually stalled, and it doesn’t do it all the
time, but when it happened last I lifted
the bonnet to discover fumes seemingly
coming from the back of the engine.
My initial thought was an iffy injector,
so I added a good-quality diesel fuel flush
in the hope it was just a blockage. It wasn’t
because it did it again soon after. I now
sense the lumpiness at cruising speed
– and while driving up an incline in top
gear the other day, I noticed a slight
hesitation. There’s no warning light on
the dash, so my next course of action is
to carry out a proper VAG-COM check
to see if there are any fault codes logged.
Incidentally, I did call a Volkswagen
independent to get their advice. And to
be honest, I now wish I hadn’t because
it seems that 2.5-litre TDI engine is
plagued by all manner of problems
that match my symptoms, including
the often written about soft camshaft
lobe issue. If I understood correctly,
the ECU tries to make up for the lack of
compression by overfuelling, and when
you come off the gas at a junction that’s
what the smell is. Sadly, my argument
that my French-registered T5 has done
only 80,000 miles didn’t seem to hold
much relevance.
I still enjoy the T5, and it’s a hugely
flexible vehicle. I just need to sort the
rough running out so I can fall in love
with it again – that’s all.

Judder with the new brake components fitted

was due to a tiny trace of surface rust left on Before the replacement discs went on, this
New front discs and pads improved the T5’s the hub that had transferred to the back of time the rust was removed with emery cloth
stopping power – albeit briefly! the disc and forced it to run out of true. and a smear of copper-based grease applied.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 89

 Our Cars
Rob
Hawkins
Special Contributor

Handing back
a project car
any of CM’s project vehicles

M appear for six or more issues

of the magazine but remain
with us for much longer.
Our Alfa Romeo GT is one such
example. Although a reader had already
asked to buy it, we wanted to use it for a
little longer to ensure we found and fixed
as many problems as possible – not so
easy on a vehicle that came to us firing
on three cylinders with a dodgy crank
position sensor and a blown head gasket.
We managed to fix all of these issues and
used it daily afterwards.
As you’d expect, more problems arose,
but nothing major. One of the tyres
began to deflate by around 10psi per
day, so I removed the wheel, laid it flat though it detected too much resistance. managed to remove the door card using
on the ground and poured some soapy I assume this is a safety measure a 5mm Allen key tool and bit – and a
water around the rim. Bubbles started because the resistance is the same as a couple of screwdrivers. I’ve put this
to emerge from two spots on the inside trapped arm so, while I was relieved it toolkit to the test on several occasions
rim, indicating air was leaking from had such a feature, I had to figure out where repairs are outside of my garage
here. I couldn’t find any other problems how to make sure the glass could be (on the driveway), and I’ve rarely needed
with the tyre, so I delivered the wheel to wound fully up without having to press any additional tools.
my local tyre specialist and paid them the window switch several times. I tried After removing the door card, I carefully
£25 to remove the tyre, clean the wheel fully winding the glass up and down and peeled back the waterproof covering and
rim, reseal it and fit the tyre back on. To holding the window switch on to see if a removed the door speaker to be able to
date, the tyre pressure is holding up. reset would help, but it didn’t. Instead, access the front and rear guides for the
The electric window for the driver’s I decided to remove the door card and door glass. There was just enough room
door has been troublesome. First, it lubricate the guides for the door glass. to squeeze my hand in, so I gathered a
struggled to raise the door glass and Armed with a Clarke cantilever toolkit large blob of multi-purpose grease and
kept stopping every couple of inches as (as tested in the February 2019 issue), I smeared it down each guide. I’d thought

Positioning the Alfa’s nearside front

wheel on the floor, Rob poured water
around the inside rim and noticed air
bubbles leaking from two points.

Rob removed the

Alfa’s door card and
waterproof sheeting
to lubricate the
door glass’s guides
and fix the sticking
window regulator.

90 Car Mechanics pMay 2020 www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics

 Our Cars Rob Hawkins

In my garage
2005 Audi A3 2.0 TDI Ex-project car from CM. The family transport since 2016.
1998 Mazda MX-5 1840cc
Another ex-project car from CM. Recently resprayed and looking good – for now!
1976 VW Transporter 1584cc Owned since 2010 and used for occasional camping trips.

The tyre was deflating at around
10psi per day, so Rob removed
the wheel to investigate further.
about spraying a light grease down the
glass from the top of the door, but there’s
no glass surround fitted, so not much to
lubricate at the top.
After reconnecting the window switch
panel, I ran the engine, closed the door
(the switch doesn’t work with the door
open) and wound the door glass up and
down several times. Eventually, it moved
faster and didn’t stop until it hit the top.
Plus, I could now flick the switch and
wind the glass fully up or down without
having to hold the switch on.
Feeling pleased I’d managed to fix one
niggling problem, I tried to refit the door
card, only to discover it’s much harder
than removing it. Eventually I figured
it out by winding the glass fully down
before sliding the top of the door card into
the top of the door to make sure the rain
channel was in the right position. It took
a few attempts but, after that, everything
else was straightforward to refit.
More light
My next job involved the map-reading
lights in the roof. One of them wasn’t
working, so I collected my selection
of trim tools and took a deep breath in
anticipation of a tricky removal process.
To my surprise, the light cluster almost
fell out of the hole in the headlining. I
unclipped a panel on the back of the unit
to see two bulbs. After swapping them
over I realised one had blown, so bought
a new one for £1.49.
This was a lot cheaper than the
£13.99 I spent on a litre of 10W-60 fully
synthetic high-performance oil for the
2.0-litre JTS engine. The oil level is still
between ‘MIN’ and ‘MAX,’ but I thought
it wise to carry a top-up container, just
in case. I’ve added a little more, so the
level is now a little closer to the MAX.
As for the other essential fluids, both the
power steering and coolant reservoirs
needed a few millilitres.
What I thought would be the easiest
job of all for the Alfa GT turned out to
be more of a nightmare than expected.
With the plan to hand the Alfa back
to editor Martyn before it went to its
new owner, I decided to renew the
windscreen wipers. The high street
shop Wilko sells new wipers for £4.50,
so I decided to try them out. Sadly, the
plastic fittings that allow the new blade
to be fitted to the wiper arm weren’t
suitable, so I re-used the old ones, only
to discover the passenger-side wiper
blade wouldn’t click fully into position
on the arm. Then I refitted the old blade
and discovered the same problem!
Luckily, it had never become dislodged,
so I switched to the new blade and kept
checking it over a period of a few days. It
has survived intact and now seems to be
more securely fitted.
The day before the 270-mile drive
down to Martyn’s, I checked all the vital
engine fluids once again, along with
the tyre pressures, and was relieved to
discover everything was satisfactory. As
the saying goes, fail to prepare and you
prepare to fail. This doesn’t account for
the reliability of a 16-year-old Italian-
manufactured car. So, I was still mildly
apprehensive during the drive down,
especially along the concrete section
of the M25 where it feels as though
you have four flat tyres. Thankfully,
the journey was trouble-free and I said
goodbye to the GT.
Martyn drove it to its new owner a
couple of days later to see if he really
wanted to buy it. And he did!

Prepared for a battle with removing the map-reading

light cluster, it practically fell out of the headlining. A
blown bulb was the problem and cost £1.49 to renew.

Replacement wipers were easy to fit, but the

passenger side is just as loose-fitting as the old one.

www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 91


This listing is published every
six months and will next appear
in our November 2020 issue. We
welcome further nominations (from
satisfied customers only please, no
self-nominations) of businesses to
be included, so that we can make this
listing as useful as possible to readers
throughout Britain and Ireland.
Please write to: Car Mechanics Good
Garage Guide, Bauer Media, Lynch
Wood, Peterborough PE2 6EA.
Or email:
martyn.knowles@bauermedia.co.uk
AVON
Lockleaze Service Station, Lockleaze
Road, Bristol BS7 9RU.
BERKSHIRE
Mike Farina Auto Services, 21 Sedgewell
Road, Sonning Common, nr Reading,
Berks RG4 9TA. Tel: 0118 972 4036.
Servicing, repairs.
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE
Stokenchurch Service Centre, Wycombe
Road, Stokenchurch, Bucks HP14 3RR.
Tel: 01494 483355. Servicing, repairs,
tuning, MOTs, welding, exhausts, batteries.
CAMBRIDGESHIRE
G Nice and Sons Ltd, 3 Chapel Street,
Waterbeach, Cambs CB25 9HR. Tel: 01223
860241. Isuzu specialist, MOT testing,
aircon specialists.
Kings of Witcham, The Slade, Witcham, nr
Ely, Cambs CB6 2LA. Tel: 01353 778403,
email: info@kingsofwitcham.co.uk.
Independent Volvo specialist since 1996.
Volvo sales, servicing and parts.
Saabmaster Garage Services, Unit 7,
Robert Davies Court, Nuffield Road,
Cambridge CB4 1TP. Tel: 01223 420055.
Independent Saab specialists.
Swift Car Care, 145-147 St Pauls Road,
Peterborough. Tel: 01733 897080.
VW Technics, Unit 10, Highgate Farm, Over
Road, Willingham, Cambridge CB24 5EU.
www.vwspecialistcambridge.co.uk
CHESHIRE
Andy Stockton Autocare Ltd, Unit 26,
Heron Business Park, Tan House Lane,
Widnes WA8 0SW. Tel: 0151 420 2838.
asautocare.co.uk Vauxhall specialist.
Gary Burnett Vehicle Services, 11 Trinity
Court, Risley, Warrington WA3 6QT. Tel:
01925 552900. gbvehicleservices.co.uk
Independent Renault specialist.
92 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
CLEVELAND
Ron Payne & Son, Baltic Street, Hartlepool
TS25 1PS. Tel: 01429 273646.
CORNWALL
Dale Brett Autos, Gilston Road, Saltash,
Cornwall PL12 6TW. Tel: 01752 849448.
Family owned and run. Explains everything,
discusses options. 10/10 everytime.
Ferris Garage Ltd, Truro TR3 6RE.
Tel: 01872 862218.
M Clark Motors, Polperro Road,
West Looe PL13 2QP. Tel: 01503 265511.
MOTs, servicing, welding, tracking,
bodywork, exhausts, batteries.
CUMBRIA
Cleator Moor Auto & Body Repairs
Ltd, Ennerdale Road, Cleator Moor,
Cumbria, CA25 5LD. Tel: 01946 811800.
Service is brilliant and the mechanics very
knowledgeable.
Riverside Garage, Holmrook, Cumbria
CA19 1UH. Tel: 01946 724228. Friendly
helpful and professional service.
DERBYSHIRE
The Service Garage Ltd, Engineering
Services, 51 Derby Road, Borrowash, Derby
DE72 3HA. Tel: 01332 663982 or 677131.
Walgrove Garage Ltd, Walgrove Road,
Brampton, Chesterfield, Derbyshire S40
2DS. Tel: 01246 278181. French & VAG
specialists. MOTs, tyres and welding.
DEVON
Racecourse Garage, Babbage Road,
Totnes Industrial Estate, Totnes, Devon
TQ9 5JA. Tel: 01803 862297.
Offers excellent service, honest approach
and competitive rates and parts quotes.
Tuned Auto Repairs, Newcourt Barton,
Clyst Road, Topsham, Exeter EX3 0DB.
Provides excellent customer service at
cheap rates.
DORSET
R G Luther and Son, Knighton Garage,
140 Magna Road, Bear Wood,
Bournemouth BH11 9NB.
Tel: 01202 573404.
DURHAM
Skipbridge Garage, Hurworth Moor,
Darlington, County Durham DL2 1QL.
Tel: 01325 720498.
ESSEX
Bennetts BMW Specialists,
Unit 1, Haltgate House, Hullbridge Road,
South Woodham Ferrers, Chelmsford,
Essex
CM3 5NG. Tel: 01245 328601,
www.bennettsbmw.co.uk
BMW specialists, also all-makes repairs.
The Bodyshop, 31-37 Tomswood Hill,
Barkingside, Essex IG6 2HL. Tel: 020 8500
9228 bodyshop.uk.com
D & A Autos, Unit 1A, Pools Lane,
Highwood, Chelmsford, Essex CM1 3QL.
Tel: 01245 248317
Frank Shaikley and Sons, Hawkins Road,
The Hythe, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY.
Tel: 01206 796657.
Halfway Garage, behind Frinton Gate
Motors, Colchester Road, Tendring, Essex
CO16 9AA. Tel: 01255 831285. Service,
repairs, MOTs incl motorbikes.
Motorvation 2000, Unit 13 Stondon Road,
Hallsford Bridge Ind Est, Ongar, Essex CM5
9RB. Tel: 01277 364241. Engine rebuilds,
MOT, servicing, electrics.
Oakdene Autos, Daniels Farm, Wash
Rd, Laindon, Essex SS15 4AZ. Tel: 01268
280909. www.oakdeneautos.co.uk
Bodywork, welding, MOT & servicing work.
Pristine Bodyworks/RR Automotive,
Scaldhurst Farm, Larkhill Road, Ashington,
Essex SS4 3RU. Tel: 01702 257177.
Family run – one brother handles
mechanical work, the other bodywork.
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Stonehouse Exhaust, Unit 1, Orchard
Place, Stonehouse, Gloucestershire.
Tel: 01453 822971. Excellent garage. Good
old-fashioned service!
HAMPSHIRE
Keylink Systems Ltd, 15/16 The Calvert
Centre, Woodmancott, Winchester SO21
3BN. Tel: 01256 379150. Mercedes/BMW
specialists but will take care of anything.
SJB Autotech, Unit 3, Beresford Centre,
Wade Road, Baskingstoke RG24 8FA.
Tel: 01256 477 411. sjbautotech.co.uk
Jim, the owner, is extremely experienced
with the VAG range.
Mendem Motors Ltd, Unit 4, Stacey
Industrial Park, Silchester Road,
Tadley RG26 3PY. Tel: 0118 970 2222.
mendemmotors.co.uk
Everything from aircon to wheel alignment
via DPF with up-to-date equipment & staff.
Wes & Co, Shootash Garage, Salisbury
Road, Romsey, Hants SO51 6GA.
Tel: 01794 515003. MOT station, servicing.
HEREFORDSHIRE
DC Rogers Auto Repairs, Unit 11, Beech
Business Park, Tillington Road, Hereford
HR4 9QJ. Tel: 01432 264200.
HERTFORDSHIRE
Broxbourne MOT and Motorist,
Unit 1, Bridge Works, Nazing New Road,
Broxbourne, Herts EN10 6SG.
KENT
Bexley Lane Garage, 33-47 Bexley Lane,
Crayford DA1 4DD. Tel: 01322 527279
bexleylanegarage.co.uk
Lockheed Authorised Brake Safety Centre,
MOTs, servicing.
Chelsfield Motor Works, Court Lodge
Farm, Warren Road, Orpington BR6 6ER.
Tel: 01689 890689. Mechanical repairs,
MOTs, bodywork, aircon, diagnostics.
Hartley Garage Services Ltd, Ash Road,
Longfield DA3 8EL. Tel: 01474 706501. All
usual garage services plus MOTs and aircon.
Ivydene Garage Ltd, Unit 99,
Ellingham Way, Ellingham Ind. Est.,
Ashford TN23 6LZ. Tel: 01233 636081.
Mechanical repairs, servicing all makes,
MOTs, aircon, Bosch diagnostics.
OFT-approved garage.
LEICESTERSHIRE
& RUTLAND
Broad Street Garage, The Old Forge,
Brook St, Enderby, Leicester LE19 4ND.
Tel: 0116 286 1416.
L&H Exhausts MOT & Service Centre,
4 Charlotte Street, Melton Mowbray,
Leics LE13 1NA. Tel: 01664 562684. www.
lhexhaustsmotcentre.co.uk Very good
independent garage with modern workshop.
Tarsel Motors Ltd, 173 Church Hill Road,
Thurmaston, Leicester LE4 8DH.
Tel: 0116 693333.
J. T. Tilley and Son, 3 Lutterworth Road,
Burbage, Hinckley, Leics LE10 2DJ.
Tel: 01455 239303.
LINCOLNSHIRE
Corten Miller Performance Centre,
Friskney Eaudykes, Skegness, Lincs.
Very knowledgeable highly-skilled staff.
Derek Chapman Motor Services,
13 High Street, Alford, Lincolnshire. Tel:
01507 462571. An excellent and friendly
garage and bodyshop.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
G Harniess (Louth) Ltd, Bolingbroke
Road, Fairfield Industrial Estate, Louth
LN11 0WA. Tel: 01507 603341.
Huttoft Service Station, Main Road,
Huttoft, Lincs LN13 9RF. Tel: 01507
490283. Village garage with all usual repair
facilities plus LPG stockists.
W H Brand and Son, Whaplode Drove,
nr Spalding, Lincs. Tel: 01406 330265.
Daewoo/Chevrolet franchise and
independent MG Rover specialists.
LONDON (GREATER)
Barnet Service & Tuning Centre,
1 Motor Way, Margaret Road, New Barnet,
Herts EN4 8DW. Tel: 020 8441 6667.
All usual garage services plus MOT testing.
P & S Carriage Ltd, (t/a Hopfields Auto
Repairs) 2-10 Raymouth Road, South
Bermondsey, London SE16 2DB.
Tel: 020 7237 2140. MOTs and servicing.
Pit Start Garage, Standard Way,
Park Royal, London. Tel: 020 8827 1919.
Completed my own servicing, as well as
giving them my 205 GTi head gasket job.
MANCHESTER
(GREATER)
Jeacotts Motors, 07568 571997.
www.facebook.com/jeacottsmotors
MERSEYSIDE
Village Auto Repairs, 6a Greenes Road,
Whiston, Prescot, Merseyside L35 3RF.
Tel: 0151 426 0999.
Servicing and repair of cars & light
commercials. Also a Class 4 MOT testing.
NORFOLK
Herring and Palmer, Hewett Yard, Hall
Road, Norwich. Tel: 01603 666585.
BMW specialists, all makes catered for.
Threeways Garage, Watton Road,
Shipham, Norfolk IP25 7PE. Tel: 01362
820430. Independent Citroën specialist,
also repairs/services other makes. MOTs.
S & R Motors, Sunset Lodge Industrial
Units, St. Germans, Kings Lynn. Tel: 01553
617696 or 07788 268121. Run by Steve
Smith. Service is excellent.
Stone Chips Ltd, 12 Garden Street,
Norwich NR1 1QU. Minor paintwork repairs,
bumpers, etc. Valeting, interior repairs,
alloy refurbishment.
NORTHAMPTONSHIRE
Rob Price Automotive Services,
146 Northampton Road, Broughton,
Kettering, Northants NN14 1NS.
Tel: 01536 790901.
NORTHUMBERLAND
JT Auto Services, The Old Works, Red
Row, Morpeth, Northumberland NE61 5AU.
Tel: 01670 761711. Repairs, servicing.
NOTTS
PVS (Professional Vehicle Servicing),
Glaisdale Drive, Nottingham NG8 4GY.
Tel: 0115 928 3333. Repairs, servicing,
reasonable prices, helpful staff.
Wright Engineering Co Ltd, 332 Colwick
Road, Nottingham NG2 4BG. Tel:
0115 950 2284. wright-engineers.co.uk
Automotive services including milling,
turning, grinding, and fabricating.
OXFORDSHIRE
Oxford Autogas, Tiddington Garage,
London Road, Milton Common/Tiddington,
Oxon OX9 2NU. Tel: 01844 279588.
oxfordautogas.com LPG installation and
servicing. MOT, service and repairs.
 SHROPSHIRE
Bridgnorth Motor Services, Station Lane,
Hollybush Road, Bridgnorth, Shropshire
WV16 5DP. Tel: 01746 762562 or 07708
167346. Mark is an ex-Ford mechanic and
seems very experienced.
SOMERSET
Hatley Garage, 86 Kewstoke Road,
Kewstoke, Weston-super-Mare, North
Somerset BS22 9YH. Tel: 01934 622495.
Specialising in classic Mini’s. Repairs,
servicing, bodywork & MOTs.
N S Autos, Prowles Cross, Yeovil,
Somerset, BA22 9RG. Tel: 01935 872891.
www.nsautos.co.uk
STAFFORDSHIRE
Midland VW, 21 Conduit Road, Norton
Canes, Cannock, Staffs WS11 9TJ.
Tel: 01543 495700, midlandvw.com
Snows Garage (Hanley) Ltd, 706 Leek
Road, Hanley, Stoke-on-Trent, Staffs
ST1 4NP. Tel: 01782 215544.
Squire Automotive, Unit 2A Zone 2
Ring Road, Burntwood Business Park,
Burntwood, Staffs WS7 3JQ. Tel: 01543
672247. squireautomotive.co.uk
SUFFOLK
Barrett-Lee Ltd, 4 Byford Road, Sudbury,
Suffolk CO10 2YG. Tel: 01787 468900.
Former Rover MD.
SUSSEX
Coles Automotive, Browns Meadow,
Edburton Road, Edburton, Henfield,
West Sussex BN5 9LN. Tel: 01273 857520.
Rew Auto Services, Unit 13, Eastmead
Industrial Estate, Lavant, Chichester, West
Sussex PO18 0DB. Tel: 01243 839520.
Vasstechnik, Unit 2, Potts Marsh Est.,
Eastbourne Road, Westham, Pevensey,
East Sussex BN24 5NH. Tel: 01323 438754.
vasstechnik.co.uk
Specialising in servicing/repairs to VAG
and MG/Rover models.
SURREY
MCM, Station Lane, Milford, Surrey GU8
5AD. Tel: 01483 424815. VW/Audi, BMW,
Mercedes – all quality car specialists.
Elmwood Vehicles Ltd, 278 Kingston Road,
Ewell, Surrey KT19 0SH. Tel: 0208 394 2847
www.carservicerepairssurrey.co.uk
TYNE & WEAR
Gavin Reed Ltd, Sunniside Garage, Front
Street, Sunniside, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne
NE16 5EE. Tel: 0191 488 7298.
MOT, service and repair.
Scotts Bank Motor Services, Scotts Bank,
Southwick, Sunderland. Tel: 0191 549 7500.
Volvo-trained, also general repairs & servicing.
WEST MIDLANDS
Cottage Garage, Brandon Way, West
Bromwich B70 9PW. Tel: 0121 525 4413.
GW Motors, 172 Sockfield Road, Acocks
Green, Birmingham B27 6AU. Tel: 0121 706
2327 or 0121 706 4770. Family-owned and
“friendly, helpful and no bullshit.”
WILTSHIRE
FJ Chalke Ltd, Talbot Garage, Mere, near
Warminster Wiltshire BA12 6HE, Tel: 01747
860244 www.fjchalke.co.uk. Established in
WORCESTERSHIRE
RK Services, Lower Leys, Evesham,
Worcestershire WR11 3AB. Tel: 01386
48935. rkservices.com
YORKSHIRE
Harry Robshaws and Sons, Glebe Street,
Castleford, West Yorks WF10 4AL.
Tel: 01977 554238.
Pure Car Mechanics, Westgate Carr
Business Park, Westgate Carr Road,
Pickering, North Yorkshire YO18 8LX. Tel:
01751 475794. purecarmechanics.co.uk
Kevin runs this garage with his partner,
Angie. The garage is female-friendly.
RTM Motor Services, 11 Waggon’s Way,
Stainforth, Doncaster, South Yorks.
Tel: 01302 351167. Peugeot/Citroën
specialist, spares, repairs and servicing.
W Sykes & Son Ltd, Low Wortley, Leeds
LS12 6AB. Tel: 0113 263 9388. MOTs,
servicing and repairs. Small family garage.
Victoria Motors, Victoria Street,
Stocksbridge, Sheffield. www.victoria-
motors-stocksbridge.co.uk
Yorkshire Vehicles 24-7, Unit 5 Sunshine
Mills, Leeds LS12 3HT. Tel: 0113 318 5259.
yorkshirevehicles24-7.co.uk
NORTHERN IRELAND
T.F. Cars (Tommy Fegan), Motor Engineers,
35-39 Parkmount Road, Antrim Road,
Belfast BT15 4EQ. Tel: 028 9037 1868.
A father and son outfit, doing mechanical
and MOT work at reasonable rates.
McKay Motor Works, 616a Antrim Road,
Newtownabbey BT36 4RF. Tel: 07787
806597. Toyota Master Technician leading
a skilled workshop team.
Lewiston Garage, J A Menzies & Sons Ltd.,
Lewiston, Drumnadrochit, Inverness
IV63 6UL. Tel: 01456 450212. Good village
garage, MOTs. Excellent and helpful.
Lothian Motors, 68 Lothian Street,
Bonnyrigg, Midlothian EH19 3AQ.
Tel: 0131 663 1076. Family-run, electronic
and aircon repairs, servicing and MOT.
Simpsons Garage, 5 Baronscourt Road,
Edinburgh EH8 7ET. Tel: 0131 652 1170.
Grant Simpson is the sole proprietor.
The Garage (Wishaw) Ltd, 70A Elison
Court, Motherwell, Scotland ML1 2DN.
Tel: 01698 265303. Japanese performance
specialist, MOTs. Excellent vehicle diagnostics.
WALES
MB Motors, Cowbridge Road, Brynsadler,
Pontyclun, Mid Glamorgan CF72 9BT.
Tel: 01443 229522.
The Olde Pounde Garage, Penperlleni
near Pontypool. Tel: 01873 880312.
MOTs, plus general repairs/maintenance.
Three Arches Services Ltd, Heathwood
Road, Cardiff CF14 4HT. Tel: 02920 752101.
AJ Autos, 2a Gaskell Street, Newport,
Gwent NP19 0GH. Tel: 01633 250513.
MOTs and servicing. Excellent service.
IRELAND
Harkin’s Garage, Gleneely, nr Carndonagh,
Co Donegal, Ireland. Father/son operation.
Covering all types of automotive operations.
This listing is provided as a reader service and based
on recommendations and information supplied by Car
Mechanics readers. We have not ourselves visited, used
or in any way tested the companies listed, and as always,
potential customers must make their own enquiries
and decisions. While every care has been taken in the
compilation of this list, Car Mechanics and Bauer Media
cannot accept responsibility for the actions of any of the
companies listed here, nor can we become involved in

SCOTLAND
colesautomotive.co.uk 1929 – now a Kia agent, before that Austin any disputes between readers and companies on this list,
Land Rover ralliers. then Rover. I have used them for 22 years. though reports – good and bad – are always welcome. We
would also appreciate being told if readers discover any
Cradle Hill Motors, Unit 16, Melksham CarCare Centre, Greenend Motors, 20 Sunnybank Terrace, garages listed here are no longer trading so we can verify
Cradle Hill Industrial Estate, Seaford, Bath Road, Melksham, Wiltshire Lower London Road, Edinburgh EH7 5TW. this and, if appropriate, remove their entry.
East Sussex. Tel: 01323 890737. SN12 8DB. Tel: 01225 703014. Tel: 0131 661 4825.

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CARS miles. One owner from new,
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FOR SALE well maintained, used daily,
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much loved. £995. 07523
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VOLKSWAGEN GOLF Mk3.
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01886 830024. Worcs. Preston. models. Tel: 07766 910326.
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www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics May 2020 pCar Mechanics 97

 In my
Humble Opinion
Mike mourns the slow disappearance of the Motorway Traffic Bobby.
The ever-thinning
blue line
X I miss those happy days when something big and white
would loom up in your rear view mirror followed by a quick
blast of the yelper siren and an index finger beckoning you
to pull over to the nearside. Two burly traffic bobbies would
amble around your car, hopefully being satisfied that all was
above board and roadworthy. In those halcyon pre-ANPR
days, you would be given the yellow ticket we called “the
seven-day wonder” or more commonly called – a “producer”.
At a police station of your choice you would summon the
attention of the oft-feared desk sergeant for him to peruse
over your insurance documents and driving licence. Anyone
under the age of thirty reading this will obviously be looking
puzzled, but back in the days this was how we rolled.
I know it sounds daft to some, but getting a tug from the
plod, in hindsight was a treat. I remember my first pull simply
for driving round the town at 1.30am for doing absolutely
nothing wrong – just four dodgy-looking lads cruising around
Northampton in an equally dodgy-looking Cortina Ghia Mk5.
After being invited to sit in the back of a fresh-out-of-box
traffic unit 3.0 Senator, even to this day I can still savour the
smell of the warm interior and the feel of the plush velour
upholstery. Being asked who I was, where I was going, where
I had been was all part of the drill; in the background all you
could hear was the constabulary centrecom crackling over
the airwaves interrupted by two second interval pips.
You respected the Traffic Officers – though these days their
job has been diluted into something a lot of the old guard
feel bitter about. Traffic is now called RPU – Road Policing
Unit with many officers now finding themselves seconded
at weekends into helping community support officers
hauling drunks out of nightclub doorways and sweeping
their broken teeth into the gutter. Have a think for a moment
and ponder when you last saw a motorway police car unless
it was barrelling down the outside lane all blues and twos?
Sadly, they are a dying breed thanks to CCTV cameras and
Highways England LR Discovery’s and Mitso Shogun’s.
But it troubles me more than just pure nostalgia. A
reliable source recently told me that during the dark hours
Leicestershire and Northants Police share the same county
roads and motorways which includes the M1, M45 and M69
with just a handful of officers and seven RPU vehicles. The
lack of road policing is something I really worry about. I once
had to dial 101 in the early hours to report a foreign HGV
driver who was swilling beer and watching a pornographic
film on his laptop as he slowly overtook me. Through two
counties we travelled, and nothing was done about it: “we
haven’t got a vehicle in the area” came the reply from the
lady operator I spoke to. Even though I was angry at this,
I understood her problem and felt rather sorry for her.
I personally know a few traffic constables and sergeants,
all of them are in that division for a couple of very good
reasons – they are, of course, complete petrolheads and
genuinely feel they can make a difference to society in
general. One of the most surreal conversations I ever had
about road policing was in the menswear department in
98 Car Mechanics pMay 2020
“Have a think for a moment and ponder
when you last saw a motorway police
car unless it was barrelling down the
outside lane all blues and twos?”
the now-closed Canterbury branch of Debenhams. While
browsing the range summer jackets in their “rotund man
over forty” collection, I spotted a chap nearby with a pair
of slacks over his arm and saw his gaze that seemed to be
taking in everything that was going on around him.
Turning to the missus, I quietly said that I knew him from
somewhere. She retorted whispering, “He looks like a store
detective, you must be mistaken”. No way – I wasn’t having
any of that, I definitely knew him from somewhere – faces
are one thing I NEVER forget and the strangest thing was the
fact that even before he uttered a word, I just knew somehow
he had a Brummie/Midlands accent. Racking my brains to
the point of steam coming from my ears, I bit the bullet and
sidled up to him politely asking if we knew each other from
somewhere. It was at this point things became so surreal –
even the missus enjoyed the conversation that followed.
He was clearly a bit surprised and shy at first and after
asking him if he worked for Jaguar Land Rover he started to
loosen up. He didn’t, although he did admit he had driven
many of them. It transpired that he was none other than
Police Constable Richard Elliot. That may not ring any bells,
but he featured regularly in the BBC TV show Motorway Cops
back in 2003 – told you I never forget a face eh?
For ten minutes or so we chatted about this and that – the
reason he was in town was that he was visiting his daughter
who was studying at Uni – and what was his favourite police
car. He then came completely alive when he waxed lyrical
about Opel Senators and Vauxhall Omegas; “You could really
flick the back ends out on those – lovely machines”. He even
gyrated his hips as if to replicate a drifting car.
Sadly, he’d been unceremoniously shoved out of the
door after thirty years’ service in the force – Staffordshire
Police’s compulsory retirement period. The pain in his eyes
was obvious even though he was clearly flattered to be
recognised. After stating that I could sense he missed his
role, his reply was quite unique; “you know, I still feel I have
something to offer the public” he told me. No selfish cry of
boredom or self-pity, just a mourning for not being able to
carry out his unswerving duty as a public servant.
Say what you want – they do a grand job our boys in blue.
www.greatmagazines.co.uk/carmechanics
Life can be complicated.
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