The Basic Parts of a Mountain Bike

As a mountain biker it is very important that you know the basic parts of
your mountain bike so that you know what you want when purchasing/
repairing/upgrading your ride when the parts wear out, or maybe when you
want a lighter weight that will help you increase your speed. Knowing your
mountain bike parts, will remove the dummy feeling about the components
that make your ride a worthy experience travel. These are essential things
when going mountain biking in Bryce Canyon. There are some
incredible trails here that you would love to ride, but nothing ruins a ride like
a busted bike.

When I purchased/assembled my mountain bike, I really don’t have that

much idea on what brands and types of bike parts are essential to have a
solid state mountain bike, that will look awesome and at the same time with
greater performance compared to those ordinary mountain bike which
could be purchased on non-specialty shops like hardware.
First thing to be considered when purchasing your mountain bike is to
identify what type of riding you are planning to do. Is it freeride, hardtail,
downhill or full suspension mountain bike?

Here are some of the basic parts of the mountain bike, if you plan to
assemble your own.

Frame – the mountain bike frame is the foundation/skeleton/core of the

bike. This is responsible in holding all the other mountain bike parts,
whether they are the basic parts or bike accessories. It is very important
that you decide the right frame size that matches your height and inseam to
reward yourself a comfortable ride. The mountain bike frames comes also
in different materials according to their price and lightness – steel, alloy,
aluminum, carbon fibre and the best of all is titanium material.

Fork and Shock Absorber – mountain bike suspension systems minimize

the shocks or jolt every time you put your bike into its limit such as riding in
rough terrain or trails. The two general classification of suspension systems
are front suspension and dual suspension. Front suspensions have a set of
shock absorbers attached to the front wheel. While dual suspension have
rear and front sections which is very ideal for technical terrains.

Handlebar –the mountain bike handlebar is located at the front of the bike,
this is what you used to steer or maneuver your bike. It also comes in
different styles and shapes to meet the specific needs of any rider. This
also holds the derailleur shifters, brake levers, headlight and cyclocomputer
attachment. As a general rule to provide additional comfort, the handlebar
should be wider than the rider’s shoulders. The wider the handlebar, the
more control and leverage but the response time in making turns would be
slower and difficult.

Stem – mountain bike stems connects the steering tube of the fork and
handlebars. This will help determine the distance of your reach to your
handlebars and your position. The longer the stem, the more stretched out
you are. Stems are measured in terms of millimeters.
Headset – mountain bike headsets is responsible for the rotatable interface
between the fork and the frame. Most of the headset consists of two cups
that are pressed into the top and bottom of the headtube.

Saddle – mountain bike saddles help improve the comfort of your ride.
Without a standard measure saddle that will catch your entire butt, then
surely a pain on the road will be encountered. Take note also that more
padding does not mean more comfort; it still depends on how you adjust
your seat properly.

Seatpost – mountain bike seatpost are designed to take all the abuse that
the trail can throw to the rider. There is also a suspension post which is a
great way of minimizing the bumps out of your ride without too much hassle
and expense but with the comfort of full suspension model.

Cranks – mountain bike cranks holds the chain rings and chains which
make the mountain bike move

Rod – mountain bike rod holds the cranks and the pedals.

Pedals – mountain bike pedals is where you step your two foot to create a
cycled motion that will make the bike move. Choosing the right pedals will
make you a better rider, make your ride safer, gives you more control with
your bike and provides more pedaling efficiency. The four basic type of
pedals are basic platform, advanced platform, toe clips or cage style and
clipless. There is also newer type of pedals, which features a dual platform
such as basic platform on one side and on the other side is cage style.

Hub – mountain bike hub is located at the center portion of the wheels
which holds the spokes attached to the rim and 2 machined metal flanges.

Spokes – mountain bike spokes are wires joining the hub to the rim, which
adds extra strength to support your weight on the wheel. It also transfers
the power of your pedaling from the hub to the wheel.
Rim – the mountain bike rims holds spokes in the inside and the tire on the
outside. The rim is commonly a metal extrusion that is butted into it to form
a hoop. The rims usually measure between 26 – 29 inches in diameter.
This also improves the ride to be smoother and safer especially in
withholding bumps, jumps and obstacles.

Tires – mountain bike tire is the only bike part which has direct contact to
the ground. The tires are usually wider and knobbier, which provides better
traction and stability. Most tires have inflated tubes/interior inside but there
are newer variations also which features a tubeless tire system. The
important things to be considered when selecting your tires are weight,
traction and durability.

Cassette – mountain bike cassette/cogset is located on your rear wheel.

Usually a mountain bike has 5-9 stacks of sprocket, which is used by a
rider to shift; to make the riding/pedaling easier especially on hills and to go
faster on flat surface.

Chain – mountain bike chain are circular set of links used to transfer the
power from chainring to cassette.

Front Derailleur – mountain bike front derailleur is used to shift the chain
rings from one to the other. In short derailleur is used to change the speed
of pedaling when biking.

Rear Derailleur – mountain bike rear derailleur is used to shift the cassette
from one to the other.

Derailleur Shifters – mountain bike shifters control the front and rear
derailleur, allowing the shifting of the gear from low to high speed and vice
versa especially when crossing different terrains. The shifters almost have
a similar look with the brake levers and are located next to the handle grips.

Brakes – mountain bike brakes is very important part of the bike because of
its primary purpose to stop the bike. Aside from that, they also help
regulate the speed, control your bike and make it possible to perform
advanced techniques. The two basic types of brakes are the disc brakes
and the rim brakes. Disc brakes perform best even on muddy situations,
but they are usually heavier than rim brakes.

Brake Levers – mountain bike brake levers is the mechanical or hydraulic

mechanism used by rider to transmit the force applied by the rider to the
brakes. The brake levers are mounted on the handlebars within easy reach
of the rider’s hand.

https://www.brycecanyongrand.com/basic-parts-mountain-bike/

Naming and explaining the different parts of a mountain bike

This article shows what each of the parts of a mountain bike are called and
gives a short simple explanation for a selection of these.

 The frame - This is probably at the core of what makes a good bike.
Frames are generally some Aluminium mix for lightness whilst still
retaining strength. Carbon is strong, tough, yet light and is a knock
absorbing material. It's more expensive than aluminium but becoming
increasingly more common.
 The front fork is the movable part of the frame that holds the front
wheel (generally has a quick release drop out). On Mountain bikes
these forks give a suspension effect taking the knocks of all we go
over. Front suspension only bikes are referred to as hard tails. Full
suspension is when a bike has a rear suspensionalso. This is great
 for steeper, bumpier descents with drops and roots. It also increases
cost and weight. 
 The wheels - The wheels are made of a hub, the spokes, the metal
rim and the rubber tyre. Rim materials have got stronger so they can
often be thinner and so lighter. Hubs have bearings and the main
thing you need to know is to not use a high powered jet around them
as when the bearings get clogged with dirt they don't spin so well.
Wheel diameter sizes in MTB are numerous these days from 26", 29"
27.5". In essence 26" are the orginal wheel size and are being seen
less and less in new models. 27.5 inch is the most common (and
recent) for all mountain riding and some swear by 29 inch especially
for more traditional trail / XC riding. It's very subjective mind (depsite
a lot of science and even more frequent mtb community and brand
debate). 
 The seat and seat post. Seats need to be comfy and allow moisture
and rain to go. Then you have the handlebars and the
handlebar stem that connects the handlebars to the frame.
Handlebars are things people often customise. A riser handlebar
rises up slightly. This helps if you do lots of downhill or jumps as it
makes the geometry of the bike more suited to landing and keeping
your weight back. Similarly a shorter stem can give you more reactive
turning power (it has less to move) and can of course make your bike
a tiny bit lighter for speed. 
 The cranks and the pedals. As for cranks if you go over lots of rocks
and drops then shorter cranks will aid (but of course the shorter the
crank the less power you have for pedalling). So it is a compromise
you need to consider. Pedals. Clipped in or out. Both have pros and
cons. If you are learning new stuff then maybe consider riding flat
initially. If you are doing long trails then clipped in gives you power
enhancements especially on the up. If you are a downhiller or
freerider then also flats with teeth and good flat grippy shoes could be
 the order of the day although riding downhill clipped in is becoming
increasingly common too to make the rider and bike more connected
and reactive.
 The brakes. Disc brakes are good for all mountain biking giving
consistent, effectivel braking regardless of temperature, rim condition,
or trail conditions right through the life of the brake. Make sure you
don't get oil on your disc or pad. It would write off the pads and the
discs would clean using an isopropanol alcohol.  
 The chain and gears groupset, consisting of the front chain wheels,
the rear freewheel, the front and rear derailleur, the shift levers on the
handlebars and the cables. 
 The bottom bracket on a bicycle contains a spindle to which the
crankset is attached and the bearings that allow the spindle and
cranks to rotate. (The chainrings and pedals are attached to the
cranks.) The bottom bracket fits inside the bottom bracket shell,
which connects the seat tube, down tube and chain stays as part of
the bicycle frame.
https://www.ibikeride.com/beginners-mtb/260-naming-and-explaining-
the-different-parts-of-a-mountain-bike
Cross-Country Bikes

This style of riding typically implies riding

fast, with an emphasis on climbing prowess. Distances vary from just a few
miles to 25-plus, and bikes tend to focus on efficiency and low weight.
These bikes can be great if you’re considering getting competitive or would
like a racier ride for your local trails.

Typical specs: 80–100mm of suspension travel; 70–71° head-tube angle

Hardtail: These bikes have a suspension fork in the front to help absorb

impact on the front wheel, but the rear of the bike has no suspension—ergo
a hardtail. Hardtails are typically less expensive than full-suspension bikes
and have fewer moving parts (which often translates into less
maintenance). Most hardtails have the ability to lock out the front fork for
times when a fully rigid bike is desired.

Cross-country riders typically gravitate toward hardtails as these bikes

allow more direct transfer of power between the pedal stroke and the rear
tire. Hardtails can also be at home on all-mountain trails, and the lower cost
and easier maintenance make them a solid option for everything except
serious lift-serviced downhill trails.

Full suspension: There are many variations

of full-suspension bikes, but the general idea is for the front fork and rear
shock to absorb the impacts of the trail. This drastically reduces the impact
on the rider, increases traction, and makes for a more forgiving and
enjoyable ride.
A full-suspension bike can soak up a lot of a trail bumps and chatter, but
the bike can also “bob” a bit and you lose some of the energy transfer when
climbing uphill. As a result, most full-suspension rigs have the ability to
lock-out the rear suspension to offer better power transfer and more
efficient climbing.

Mountain Bike Wheel Size

26 in.: In the not too-distant past, all adult

mountain bikes were equipped with 26 in. wheels. It still is an available
wheel size, but now when you walk into a bike shop and inquire about
mountain bikes, you are likely to be asked, “26 in., 27.5 in. or 29 in.?”

27.5 in. (650b): Offering a middle ground between standard 26 in. wheels

and 29ers, these bikes apply a “best of both worlds” solution, more easily
rolling over terrain than the 26s, but more maneuverable than 29ers. 27.5
in. wheels can be found on both full-suspension and hardtail rigs.

29ers: These bikes feature 29 in. wheels that are a little slower to

accelerate, but once you start moving you can conquer considerably more
terrain far easier than on a bike with 26 in. wheels. They are more efficient
for longer rides as they keep their momentum up and they have a higher
“attack angle,” meaning the wheel rolls over trail obstacles easier. These
bikes have become extremely popular for the cross-country crowd. 29ers
can be found in rigid, hardtail and full-suspension rigs.
27.5+ in.: The plus symbol simply indicates extra-wide wheels and tires,
typically 2.8 in. or more in width. Wider tires offer a more comfortable and
more forgiving ride. They also encounter less rolling resistance, so the
trend is for bikes to have wider wheels and tires these days.

24 in.: Kids’ mountain bikes typically have 24 in. wheels to accommodate

the shorter legs of children. Most are less-expensive versions of adult bikes
with simpler components. Generally speaking, these suit kids ages 10 to
13, but this depends more on the size of the child than the age.
Younger/smaller children can get started on mountain bikes with 20 in.
wheels.

Mountain Bike Frame Materials

The frame influences a bike's weight, strength, longevity, ride quality and
price.

Aluminum alloy is the most commonly used material for mountain bike
frames. Some more-expensive models have lighter aluminum frames as a
result of the manufacturer expending more dollars and effort in the
selection of materials, tubing design and the manufacturing process.

Other frame materials include steel, titanium and carbon fiber. Steel is

tough, inexpensive and offers a smooth ride, but is relatively heavy for a
mountain bike. Titanium is light and strong but too expensive for all but
high-end mountain bikes. Carbon fiber is fairly common on cross-country
bikes, fat bikes, and high-end trail and all-mountain bikes because of its
strength and low weight, but it is relatively expensive because it requires
labor-intensive manufacturing.

https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/mountain-bike.html

27.5” vs. 29er: Which Mountain Bike is Right for Me?

At-a-glance comparison of 27.5” vs. 29er mountain bikes:

  27.5"
Acceleration Faster
Traction Good
Attack angle Good
Weight Lighter
Maneuverability Better
Fit Favors shorter riders

Take test rides: As you consider 27.5 and 29 in. wheels, keep in mind that
the best way to learn the differences is to feel them for yourself. Swing by
your local REI or bike shop and take each one for a test ride.

Acceleration

27.5 in. wheels have faster acceleration while 29ers are more efficient
on longer rides.

Smaller wheels accelerate faster than larger wheels. This is due mostly to
where the weight of the wheel is distributed. Larger wheels place the
weight of the spokes, rims, tubes and tires farther from the center of the
wheel, resulting in higher rotational mass and slower acceleration. When
you cut down on the rotational mass of a rolling object it will roll faster and
with more ease.

27.5”: Faster acceleration is often cited as one of the biggest benefits of a

27.5” wheel when compared to a 29” wheel. Wheels that accelerate
faster give a bike a snappy, responsive feel that many riders desire.

29”: Wheels that accelerate slower take longer to get up to speed, possibly

giving the bike an unresponsive feel. However, once the larger wheels
reach top speed, they’re actually more efficient for longer rides than smaller
wheels because they require less effort to keep their momentum going.

Traction

Because of their greater surface area (aka “contact patch”), 29 in.

wheels have better traction (when comparing comparable tires).
27.5 in.: These wheels provide very good traction and are good for most
purposes. Other considerations, such as acceleration, weight and fit may
ultimately be more important factors in your choice of wheel size.

29 in.: These wheels, with their larger contact patch, may be your best

choice if grip on slippery rocks and roots is a top priority.

Attack Angle

29ers roll over objects more easily.

Attack angle is the angle formed when the round wheel touches a square
object. A shallower angle is better because the wheel can roll more easily
over the object.

27.5 in. wheels don’t roll over objects as easily as 29ers, but they are still
very capable. Think about where you’ll be riding: if you’ll mostly ride smooth
trails, 27. 5 in. wheels will serve you just fine.
29 in. wheels have a slightly shallower attack angle than 27.5 in. wheels,
making them better at rolling up and over any logs, roots and rocks that
you’ll encounter on the trail. Many riders feel more confident with larger
wheels.

Weight

27.5 in. wheels are lighter.

There’s no way around it; a larger wheel is heavier. Bikes with 29 in.
wheels can weigh about 2 lbs. more than bikes with 27.5 in. wheels due to
more wheel material and more tire rubber.

Depending on the type of riding you do, the weight of your bike may or may
not be very important.

If you’re a casual rider: The weight difference between 27.5 in. wheels

and 29 in. wheels may not be your biggest concern. You might care more
about traction and attack angle.

If you’re competitive or go on long-distance cross-country rides: You’ll

probably be looking for ways to save weight. Going with a smaller wheel is
one way to reduce weight, but it’s not the only way. You can also look into
ultralight carbon fiber frames, handlebars, seatposts and rims.

Setting your wheels up to be tubeless is another great way to reduce

weight. Tubeless wheels not only reduce overall bike weight, but they also
accelerate faster because of reduced rotational mass and they have the
added benefit of being able to run at lower tire pressure for better traction.

Maneuverability (Frame Flex)

27.5 in. bikes are more maneuverable.

A 29 in. bike is more flexible due to the elongation of the frame that comes
with the larger wheel size. This can result in a bike that feels harder to
handle in tight turns.
If you regularly ride tight, twisty trails, you might prefer the feel of a 27.5
in. bike. 27.5 in. wheels retain a lot of the snappy feel of the original 26 in.
size, while maintaining many of the benefits that come with a larger wheel.

29ers roll over obstacles more easily, so you may find you don’t miss the
snappy feel of smaller wheels, as you’re able to go up and over rocks and
roots rather than trying to quickly maneuver around them.

Fit

29ers are often better suited to taller riders.

The larger 29 in. wheels affect the overall geometry of a bike frame more
drastically than 27.5 in. wheels. This can make it difficult for shorter riders
(especially those shorter than 5 ft. 6 in.) to find a 29er that fits well. Test
ride both wheel sizes if you can.

Taller riders, especially those over 6 ft. tall, may prefer the feel of a bike
with 29 in. wheels. However, a bike with 27.5 in. wheels can also fit tall
riders well, so decide where your priorities are related to acceleration,
traction, attack angle and weight first.

https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/mountain-bike-wheel-size.html
 Mountain Bike Groupsets Explained

THE BIKEEXCHANGE TEAM FEBRUARY 09, 2018

 
What’s a modern day mountain bike without a groupset? Well, it’s a frame, suspension fork, wheels and
control items, but it’s not a bike. Thought of as the bike’s engine room, a groupset comprises of brakes
and the drivetrain. The drivetrain consists of the cranks, chainring/s (front cogs), chain, cassette (rear
cogs), derailleurs and shifters. Simply put,it's a closed circuit that propels the bike forwards.
As you spend more money, the efficiency, durability and shifting performance increases while the
weight decreases. In this article you’ll learn what you need to know when it comes to mountain bike
groupsets including what each part does, the key difference between various price points and other
information you’ll need to make an educated decision on which groupset is best for you.
COMPONENTS OF A GROUPSET

Crankset
The crankset is what the bicycle pedals attach to and are what your legs spin in circles as you pedal.
On modern mountain bikes, the crankset consists of the crank arms, chainrings (the front cogs) and the
axle that connects the two crank arms together.

The crankset and its number of chainrings dictate how many front gears a bike has. Modern mountain
bikes have one, two or three, with the latest trend being the fewer the better.
The length of crank arms does vary, but not as much as seen with road bikes. Crank length in
mountain biking is typically more standard to help with leverage at an average lower riding speed. With
this, smaller bikes will often use 170mm crank arms, with medium-sized bikes and up using a 175mm
crank length. Downhill bikes and similar will use shorter 165mm cranks for improved ground clearance.
Bottom bracket
The crankset spins on a set of bearings, these are known as the bottom bracket. The bottom bracket
attaches within the frame and so there is a large array of options to suit various frame designs. The two
key types include ones that thread into place (threaded) and ones that are pressed into place and rely
on tight tolerances, these are known as ‘press-fit’ bottom brackets.

Cassette

The cassette is the rear cogs that connect to the rear wheel. These rear cogs dictate how many gears
a bike has at the back, with most modern mountain bikes typically offering between eight to twelve
gears.
Chain

The chain is what connects the front crankset to the rear cassette. Without the chain, the bike has no
drive. A chain is usually made of steel and features a series of interconnected links that rotate smoothly,
but are difficult to twist laterally.
Derailleurs

Derailleurs are the components that guide the chain between the cogs. These usually work by having
a cable, or hydraulic fluid pull them in one direction, and then relying on spring tension within the
derailleur to pull opposite direction.
With the rear derailleur made of a series of springs, rough terrain in mountain biking can see this
component slap around, often leading to lots of noise and the potential of a dropped chain. In recent
years ‘clutch’ equipped rear derailleurs have become the standard for intermediate and better mountain
bike derailleurs. This clutch creates friction in the cage that the chain runs through, and offers a quieter
ride with a greatly reduced chance of a dropped chain.

New electronic technology sees small servomotors added to some derailleurs, which control the
movement, this is known as electronic shifting. Such technology comes at a premium price, but removes
risk of mud, water or general wear affecting shift performance. This is because a cable-operated
(mechanical) system relies on precise cable tension and cable condition to accurately move the
derailleur between gears.

Shifters

Sitting at the handlebars within easy reach, the shifters are your controls for enacting a gear change.
The shifters are linked directly to the derailleurs, typically by way of mechanic cable.
The most common type of shifter on a mountain bike is the ‘trigger’ shifter. Here, either your thumb or
fore finger is used to actuate a shift. A less common design is that of grip shift, which works by twisting
the grip to make a shift. Each brand offers a different style of shifting; we’ll explain this later.
Brakes

Traditionally part of a groupset, mountain bike brakes have broken free into their own category in
recent years. In many cases, you’ll still be able to match your brakes to your desired groupset, but it’s far
more common to mix-and-match in this regard. This is due to disc brakes becoming the standard choice
in mountain bikes. Where over a decade ago rim brakes were still popular, disc brakes now are featured
on just about any mountain bike selling for over AU$500.

Disc brakes can be easily segmented into two categories: Hydraulic and mechanical. Hydraulic borrows
its technology from the automotive world and uses a fluid system to transfer force from the brake lever
to the brake pads. Being a sealed system, it’s incredibly low maintenance and easy to operate.
Mechanical disc brakes remain the common choice for lower-end mountain bikes where the hydraulic
systems are too expensive. Here, a wire cable is used to transfer the force at the brake lever to the
brake pads. This system is not sealed and is susceptible to dirt, rust, cable stretch and other wear
factors. As the brake pads wear, simple manual adjustment will be needed; whereas with hydraulic
systems, such adjustments are generally automated.

Gears, ratios and numbers

Much the engine and gears found in a car, bicycle gears are used to allow your motor (legs) to efficiently
cover a range of speeds and gradients. Here, different gear ratios change how far the rear wheel spins in
relation to crank at the front. Easier (lower) gears result in a rear wheel that turns less in relation to the
crank, while harder (higher) gears will see the rear wheel travel further for a single revolution of the
crank.

Mountain biking often involves low gearing to scale steep hills and overcome loose terrain. Due to this,
mountain bikes use specific gear ratios that are best suited to the rugged terrain, and generally lower
average speeds compared to other cycling forms. Bigger wheel diameters effectively make the gearing
harder, and so as mountain bike wheels have increased in size, the gearing has become relatively easier.
The important thing to know is that the available gear range and number of gears are not the same
thing. The gear range refers to the span from the very hardest (high) to the easiest (low) gear. A bike
with only 11 gears can potentially have the same high and low span as a bike with 30 gears.
The number of gears is calculated by multiplying the number of cogs at the back wheel (cassette), with
the number of cogs (chainrings) at front crank. So for example: a bike with nine gears at the cassette,
and three at the crankset is a 27-speed. And a bike with ten gears at the cassette, and two at the
crankset is a 20-speed.

Understanding gear range is becoming increasingly important in mountain biking as it’s how and why
many modern bikes are moving away from three chainrings on the front, and moving to two or even just
one. This new approach comes from new cassettes that offer a greatly increased range.

There are multiple reasons to have fewer front gears on a mountain bike, but the main reasons include
greater simplicity, easier operation and improved reliability. Additionally, where two or three chainrings
are involved, there are always going to be overlapping/redundant gears, so for example, a 27-speed
drivetrain may only offer 18 truly unique ratios. Reducing the number of chainrings reduces this overlap.

The number of teeth on the individual chainrings and rear cogs calculate the exact gear ratios of a bike.
The smaller (fewer teeth) a chainring has, the lower the gear is. Out back, it’s reverse of this, and the
lowest gear will be biggest (with the most teeth) cassette cog.

Reverse this, and you have the highest gear. This is the biggest front chainring matched with the
smallest rear cog.

It can be confusing to get your head around, but generally speaking, chainrings are smaller and cassettes
are bigger on mountain bikes when compared to other popular bike types.

The Brands
 In mountain biking, there are two key brands that control the vast share of the market – Shimano and
SRAM. Below we outline the hierarchy available from each brand.
Shimano
The market leader in all cycling categories, Shimano has the biggest range of mountain specific
groupsets.

Most of Shimano's groupsets are designed to work together (as long as they share the same number of
gears), making it possible to mix componentry, although for optimal performance it's best to keep
uniformity.

Shimano’s mountain bike shifters use ‘Rapid Fire’ technology, where your thumb operates one shift
lever to move the derailleur in one direction, and your forefinger operates the other to send the
derailleur the opposite direction. From Alivio-level and up, that forefinger lever can also be operated
with your thumb. Rapid Fire allows multiple gearshifts to be made with the large thumb lever and and
on more expensive models, both levers can shift multiple gears in a single push.

Below is a brief breakdown of Shimano's mountain bike groupsets.

Tourney: Shimano's most budget groupset, often seen on basic recreational and even kids bikes.
With basic stamped steel and plastic components, it’s not designed for the rigors of off-road riding.
Expect a plastic grip shifter and 3x7 gears at this level.

Altus: Altus is Shimano’s entry-level groupset and is occasionally seen on budget mountain bikes.
Again, it’s not designed for mountain biking, but light off-road use is applicable. Shimano RapidFire
trigger shifters are found here, and a 3x7 or 3x8 gear setup is typical.

Acera: Acera appears on many entry-level bikes and offers either 8 or 9-speed gears at back, and
three at the front. More aluminium is starting to be seen at this price, with greater rust resistance
compared to models below.
Alivio: Alivio is top of Shimano’s ‘recreational’ mountain bike groupsets. It offers a number of
features and shared aesthetics of groupsets above it. This groupset is found on entry-level mountain
bikes that are designed for off-road use, however, the 3x9 gearing and lack of a clutch-equipped
derailleur are the key limitations for true off-road thrashing. Greater rust resistance and more easily
serviced components are seen at this level.

Deore: Deore is aimed at the entry to intermediate level mountain biker and is perhaps the most
popular too. Deore is durable, reliable and features much of the technology found on the more
expensive SLX and XT. Deore currently has 10 cogs on the cassette, and a choice of two or three gears at
the front. Some bike brands do equip Deore on bikes with a single chainring, but Shimano themselves
don’t offer the groupset in such a setup. Deore is Shimano’s first groupset to offer a clutch-equipped
rear derailleur.

SLX: SLX is arguably to mountain biking as what 105 is to road cycling. It’s the workhorse groupset
that shares many of the same features and performance as models above, but with a higher weight. This
is often due to the greater use of steels instead of advanced alloys. Current generation SLX offers 11-
speed shifting at the rear, with a choice of one, two or three chainrings on the front. In a ‘1x’ setup (one
chainring), the most popular cassette choice is a 11-42T ratio however, options up to 11-46t exist.

Zee: Designed specifically for downhill and freeriding, Zee sits at a similar price to SLX. Current
generation Zee is a 1x10 drivetrain, it's now a little dated compared to current SLX and so has lost
popularity, although its brakes are still commonly found on bikes that require great stopping power.

XT: One of mountain biking’s most popular groupsets, XT is commonly thought to offer all the
performance of the top-tier XTR version, but with a price that’s far more palatable. Just about all the
technology is there, including a strong use of aluminium and high quality stainless steels. Many
‘enthusiast’ level race bikes feature Shimano XT components. Current generation XT ‘8000’ is most
commonly used with either a single or double chainring setup. For the single-chainring, either the use of
a 11-42 or a 11-46T cassette is popular.

XT Di2: XT also comes in an electronic version known as 'XT Di2'. Unlike the mechanical version,
which requires cables to change gears, Di2 uses motor-driven mechanics at the front and rear derailleur
to provide a crisp perfect shift, every time. The Di2 version is slightly heavier than mechanical (about
90g) but is impervious to dirt and grit. Once setup, it also never requires re-adjustment. XT Di2 shares
the same chain, crankset and cassette options at standard XT.

XTR: The gold standard of mountain bike groupsets from the Japanese company. The groupset uses a
mixture of carbon fibre, titanium and high-grade alloys to reduce weight without sacrificing reliability.
XTR RapidFire Plus shift levers have marginally smoother operation due to the use of internal bearing.
Tolerances are tightest on Shimano XTR, and so while it’s marginal, there is a subtle improvement in
shift quality over XT in addition to being a couple of hundred grams lighter, and for over double the
price, you’d hope so too.
XTR Di2: The true pinnacle in Shimano’s mountain bike range. XTR Di2 offers everything expected of
Shimano’s finest at the push of an electronic button. XTR Di2 shares the same function as XT Di2, but is
made with weight savings and winning races in mind.

Saint:  Similar in level to Shimano XTR, Saint is considered a gravity-orientated ‘specialty’ groupset.

It’s most commonly found on pro-level downhill race bikes. Current generation Saint is a 1x10 drivetrain.
SRAM

SRAM has multiple mountain bike groupsets available, and in many ways is the more progressive
company in the mountain bike sector with having first introduced 2x and then 1x drivetrains to the
mainstream mountain bike world.

SRAM’s groupsets are not as clearly defined as Shimano’s and so mixing and matching of components is
typically found at the lower end. SRAM is fast moving toward 1x-specific drivetrains on nearly all of its
intermediate to premium groupset options. Assuming the number of gears match, SRAM parts are
typically interchangeable between series.

Shifting with SRAM comes in two styles – trigger shifter or grip shift. Grip shift, which literally works by
twisting the handlebar grip to shift is where SRAM started but isn’t as popular these days and isn’t found
stock on new bikes – although it’s readily available as an aftermarket option. Trigger shifting is now the
standard choice for SRAM users and works similar to Shimano’s Rapid Fire system, but your thumb
operates both levers with a push. It was SRAM’s system that prompted Shimano to add the option of
thumb operation on its more expensive shifters, such a design allows shifting in both directions and
brake control at the same time.
Below is a basic breakdown of SRAM's groupsets. Mentioned below are the models you’re likely to find
on 2018 model bikes.

X5: This entry-level groupset from SRAM features both 9 and 10-speed options and two or three
chainrings. X5 components are rarely seen as a complete groupset, but the parts are commonly found
on basic hardtails.

X7: This groupset was once a staple on intermediate hardtails and entry-level dual suspension bikes. It
offers dependable trail performance on a tight budget. The groupset now is mostly found in a 10-speed
setup with two chainrings (2x10). X7 is SRAM’s entry into offering a clutch-equipped rear derailleur for
additional chain security. Many bikes that would have previously used X7 are now using SRAM’s 1x11
‘NX’ groupset for 2018.

X9: Building on the features of X7, X9 introduces more aluminium and higher-end steels. X9 is
commonly setup as 2x10 and was once a popular groupset for intermediate mountain bikes. For 2018,
SRAM NX and GX is far more commonly seen for where X9 once was.

NX: One of SRAM’s newest, NX is the lowest price entry into a 1x specific drivetrain on the market.
Designed to imitate the function and features of more expensive options, 11-speed SRAM NX offers a
11-42T cassette for a wide range. This cassette is a big part of the cost savings over more expensive 1x
groupsets as it fits onto a standard hub, whereas more premium 1x SRAM cassettes require a special ‘XD
Driver’ hub body to host a wider-range 10-42T cassette, such a component is part of the rear hub and so
often requires a more expensive wheel too.

GX: GX confusingly overlaps closely with X7, X9 and X1. For this, GX is offered in four variants: 1x7,
1x11, 2x11 and 2x10. It’s the 1x11 version of GX most commonly equipped, and the group introduces
the use of a wide-range 10-42T cassette along with a greater use of aluminium components (like X9 and
X1). The limited range of the 1x7 option is designed for downhill racing.

GX Eagle: Released mid-way through 2017, GX Eagle is a 1x12 speed groupset that brings all
the benefits found on more expensive xx1 and x01 eagle groupsets, down to a more modest price point.
Although very similar in operation to its more expensive counterparts, GX Eagle makes use of slightly
cheaper materials and see’s a slight weight increase in order to hit its extremely competitive price point.
Expect to see GX Eagle groupsets fitted to a wide range of mid-priced high value mountain bikes
throughout 2018

X1: First introduced in 2015, X1 has now been commonly replaced with SRAM GX Eagle on many bikes
for 2018. X1 is a fully featured 1x-specific groupset with components featuring aluminium construction
and a proven track record for being capable of serious abuse. X1 offers similar shift performance to
more expensive groupsets but at a higher weight. X1 is a tad lighter than GX.

XO1: SRAM’s first offering of carbon fibre and a little premium performance, SRAM X01 is a high-end
groupset that is 1x-specific and uses a lightweight 11-speed 10-42T cassette. X01 is typically considered
SRAM’s pinnacle for trail, Enduro racing and other aggressive riding styles. SRAM X01 is also available in
a 1x7 variant which is specifically designed for downhill racers in mind, it’s the groupset SRAM’s
sponsored downhill riders use.

XO1 Eagle: X01 Eagle is the latest version of X01 and moves to a 12-speed setup. Eagle is SRAM’s
statement to make front shifting redundant, and the Eagle 10-50T cassette offers an incredible 500%
gear range. Whilst no longer sitting atop the hierarchy, X01 Eagle is still a premium groupset featuring
high-end aluminium, CNC-machined steel and carbon fibre construction.

XX1: Where X01 is SRAM’s finest for the Enduro and trail riders, XX1 takes it a notch above for the
cross-country riders and racers counting grams. The differences between X01 and XX1 are subtle, but
the scales don’t lie. XX1 was SRAM’s first 1x-specific 11-speed groupset. It uses a 10-42T cassette.

XX1 Eagle: SRAM’s latest and most premium groupset, XX1 Eagle shares all the same features as
the 12-speed X01 Eagle groupset but saves weight at every possible corner for a groupset that’s aimed
at the cross country racer or trail rider seeking the very lightest, wide-range 1x groupset on the market.

https://www.bikeexchange.com.au/blog/mountain-bike-groupsets-explained

List of bicycle parts

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Bicycle parts
For other cycling related terms (besides parts) see Glossary of cycling.
List of bicycle parts by alphabetic order:

 Axle: as in the generic definition, a rod that serves to attach a wheel to a bicycle and
provides support for bearings on which the wheel rotates. Also sometimes used to describe
suspension components, for example a swing arm pivot axle
 Bar ends: extensions at the end of straight handlebars to allow for multiple hand positions
 Bar plugs or end caps: plugs for the ends of handlebars
 Basket: cargo carrier
 Bearing: a device that facilitates rotation by reducing friction
 Bell: an audible device for warning pedestrians and other cyclists
 Belt-drive: alternative to chain-drive
 Bicycle brake cable: see Cable
 Bottle cage: a holder for a water bottle
 Bottom bracket: The bearing system that the pedals (and cranks) rotate around. Contains a
spindle to which the crankset is attached and the bearings themselves. There is a bearing
surface on the spindle, and on each of the cups that thread into the frame. The bottom bracket
may be overhaulable (an adjustable bottom bracket) or not overhaulable (a cartridge bottom
bracket). The bottom bracket fits inside the bottom bracket shell, which is part of the bicycle
frame
 Brake: devices used to stop or slow down a bicycle. Rim brakes and disc brakes are
operated by brake levers, which are mounted on the handlebars. Band brake is an alternative to
rim brakes but can only be installed at the rear wheel. Coaster brakes are operated by pedaling
backward
 Brake lever: a lever for actuating a bicycle brake
 Brake shifter or colloquially, brifter (see also Shimano Total Integration, Campagnolo
ErgoPower and SRAM Double Tap): combined shifter and brake lever control
 Braze-on: a fitting protruding from a frame to provide attachment, typically for cable
housings or tire pumps and similar accessories
 Cable guide: a fitting below the bottom bracket which guides a piece of bare inner bowden
cable around a corner
 Cable: a metal cable enclosed in part by a metal and plastic housing that is used to connect
a control, such as a brake or shifting lever, to the device it activates
 Cartridge bearing: a type of bearing that is not user-serviceable, but must be replaced as a
unit
 Cassette: a group of stacked sprockets on the rear wheel of a bicycle with a rear derailleur
 Chain: a system of interlinking pins, plates and rollers that transmits power from the front
sprocket(s) to the rear sprocket(s)
 Chainguard: Gear case cover for the entire chain either totally encasing (sometimes
containing oil) or 'incomplete'. Either way, designed to keep clothing from fouling the chain. See
also Skirtguard
 Chainring: (one of the) front gear(s), attached to a crank
 Chainstay: a pair of tubes on a bicycle frame that runs from the bottom bracket to the rear
fork ends
 Chain tensioner: a device to maintain proper chain tension
 Chaintug: a device to aid in setting the proper chain tension
 Cluster: a bicycle cogset, either a freewheel, or cassette
 Cogset: the set of rear sprockets that attaches to the hub on the rear wheel
 Cone: holds bearings in place, pressed against the cup
 Cotter: pin for attaching cottered cranks
 Coupler: to connect tubing together
 Crankset or chainset: composed of cranks and at least one chainring
 Cup: receives ball bearings which roll along its inner surface; integrated on most
conventional hubs or can be pressed into older bottom bracket shells. See also Cone
 Cyclocomputer: an electronic accessory that measures and displays instantaneous and
cumulative speed and distance. Often provides other measurements such as heart rate
 Derailleur hanger: a piece on the rear dropout that the derailleur attaches to.
 Derailleur: an assembly of levers, usually cable actuated, that moves the chain between
sprockets on a cassette or chainring assembly
 Down tube: tube on the bicycle frame that runs from the head tube to the bottom bracket
 Dropout: a bicycle rear fork end that allows the rear wheel to be removed without first
derailing the chain. The term dropout is often incorrectly used to refer to any fork end, but not all
fork ends are dropouts
 Dustcap: any cap serving to keep dirt and contamination out of an assembly. Common over
crank bolts, often plastic
 Dynamo: bicycle lighting component, also known as generator
 Eyelet:
1) attachment point on frame, fork, or dropout for fenders, racks, etc.
2) a hole through which a spoke nipple passes through the rim so it may attach to a spoke

 Electronic Gear-Shifting System: not simply a type of shifter or a type of derailleur, a

complete system with switches instead of levers, wires instead of Bowden cables, and
motor-driven derailleurs that must all work together
 Fairing: a full or partial covering for a bicycle to reduce aerodynamic drag or to protect
the rider from the elements
 Fender or mudguard: curved pieces of metal or plastic above the tires which catch and
redirect road spray thrown up by the tires, allowing the rider to remain relatively clean.
May come in pairs
 Ferrule: a metal or plastic sleeve used to terminate the end of a cable housing
 Fork: a mechanical assembly that integrates a bicycle's frame to its front wheel and
handlebars, allowing steering by virtue of its steerer tube
 Fork end: paired slots on a fork or frame at which the axle of the wheel is attached. See
also Dropout
 Frame: the mechanical core of a bicycle, the frame provides points of attachment for the
various components that make up the machine. The term is variously construed, and
can refer to the base section, always including the bottom bracket, or to base frame,
fork, and suspension components such as a shock absorber
 Freehub: a ratcheting assembly onto which a cog or cassette is mounted that allows the
bicycle to coast without the pedals turning
 Freewheel: a ratcheting assembly that incorporates one or more cogs and allows the
bicycle to coast without the pedals turning
 Gusset: plates added to the outsides of frame tubes to strengthen joints. These are
more commonly seen on BMX and mountain bikes
 Hanger: part of frame or an attachment to the frame to which the derailleur is attached
(see Derailleur hanger)
 Handlebar: a lever attached, usually using an intermediary stem, to the steerer tube of
the fork. Allows steering and provides a point of attachment for controls and accessories
 Handlebar plug: see Bar plugs
 Handlebar tape: a tape wound around dropped handlebars so as to provide padding
and grip, usually cork or cloth, sometimes foam rubber
 Head badge: manufacturer's or brand logo affixed to the head tube
 Head tube: the tube of a bicycle frame that contains the headset
 Headset: the bearings that form the interface between the frame and fork steerer tube
 Hood: the rubber brake lever covering on bikes with drop style handle bars
 Hub: the core of a wheel; contains bearings and, in a traditional wheel, has drilled
flanges for attachment of spokes
 Hub dynamo: a generator inside one of the hubs for powering lights or other
accessories
 Hub gear: a gearbox mounted inside the hub, 3-speed is common, 5, 7 are available
("Sturmey-Archer") and Rohloff make a 14-speed hub. Cable operated by one or two
cables
 Indicator: a turn signal
 Inner tube: a bladder that contains air to inflate a tire. Has a Schrader,
"Woods"/"Dunlop" or Presta valve for inflation and deflation
 Jockey wheel: one of two small sprockets of the rear derailleur that guide the chain
 Kickstand: a folding attachment used for assisting a bicycle to stand up on its own.
Usually mounts to frame near bottom bracket, sometimes near rear dropouts
 "Lawyer lips": also called a "lawyer tab", a retention device on the dropouts of the
front fork to prevent inadvertent loss of the front wheel in the case it is not properly
secured
 Locknut: a nut designed not to loosen due to vibration
 Lockring: a ring, usually metal, of varying design, that serves to retain a component in
place
 Lug: a metal connector used to align frame components where they join each other
 Luggage carrier: any accessory equipment designed to carry tools, gear or cargo
 Master link: a bicycle chain accessory that allows convenient removal and reconnection
of an installed bicycle chain without the need for a chain tool
 Nipple: a specialized nut that most commonly attaches a spoke to a wheel rim. In some
systems, it provides attachment to the hub
 Pannier: cloth zippered storage bags that mount to sides of luggage racks.
Pronounced pan-ear, or pan-yer (an old English word, not French)
 Pedal: mechanical interface between foot and crank arm. There are two general types;
one secures the foot with a mechanical clamp or cage and the other has no connection
to lock the foot to the pedal
 Peg: short metal tube, about 6 inches (15 cm) long and 2 inches (5.1 cm) fastened to
one or both ends of the wheel axles to either enable the rider perform certain tricks or
provide a place for extra riders to stand or rest
 Portage strap: a strap (usually made of leather) attached to the inside of the bike
frame, designed to make carrying the bike over one's shoulder easier
 Quick release: a skewer with a lever on one end that loosens when the lever is flipped.
Used for releasing wheels and seat posts
 Rack: a rack that attaches behind the seat, usually with stays to the rear dropouts, that
serves as a general carrier
 Reflector: reflects light to make bicycle evident when the illuminated by headlights of
other vehicles. Usually required by law but held in disdain by many cyclists
 Removable training wheels: used for assisting balance. Comes in pair. Useful for first
time bicyclists
 Rim: that part of a wheel to which the tire is attached and often forms part of the braking
mechanism
 Rotor:
1) the disc component of a disc brake.[1]
2) another name for a detangler - a device that allows the handlebars and fork to revolve
indefinitely without tangling the rear brake cable.

 Safety levers: extension levers, and interrupt brake levers. Used to apply
brakes in order for the bicycle to slow down or suddenly stop
 Saddle or Seat: what a bicyclist sits on
 Seat rails: a metal framework over which saddle covering is stretched. The seat
post attaches to the seat rails by means of a clamp
 Seat lug: a frame lug on the top of the seat tube serving as a point of
attachment for a clamp to secure the seat post
 Seat tube: the roughly vertical tube in a bicycle frame running from the seat to
the bottom bracket
 Seat bag: a small storage accessory hung from the back of a seat
 Seatpost: a post that the seat is mounted to. It slides into the frame's seat tube
and is used to adjust ride height depending how far into the seat tube it is
inserted
 Seatstay: frame components, small diameter tubes running from top of seat
tube to rear dropouts
 Shaft-drive: alternate to chain-drive
  Shifter: gear shifting control
 Shock absorber: for bicycles with suspensions, a device that limits the rate at
which suspension rebounds after absorbing an impact
 Side view mirror: aids in looking at the sides prior to moving slowly or turning
to the left or to the right
 Skirt guard or coatguard: a device fitted over the rear wheel of a bicycle to
prevent a long skirt, coat or other trailing clothes or luggage from catching in the
wheel, or in the gap between the rim and the brakes
 Spindle: an axle around which a pedal rotates; threaded at one end to screw
into crank arms
 Spoke: connects wheel rim to hub. Usually wire with one end swaged to form a
head and one threaded end. A typical wheel has 36 spokes
 Steering tube: a tube on top of a fork that is inserted through frame and serves
as an axle by means of which bicycle can be steered
 Stem: a bracket used to attach handlebars to steerer tube of fork. Usually
secured by pinch bolts
 Tire: as in common usage. Usually pneumatic. A tubular tire is glued to the
wheel rim; most tires use tubes, but tubeless tires and rims are increasingly
common
 Toe clips: a metal or plastic cage attached to a pedal. Usually has an
adjustment strap. Secures foot to pedal for increased control and more effective
transfer of power from foot to drive chain
 Top tube: frame member leading from steerer tube to seat tube
 Valve stem or simply valve: port for adding or releasing air from the inner tube.
Two types are commonly used: Presta and Schrader. A third type,
the Woods/Dunlop valve, can still be found in Europe and Asia.
 Wheel: as in common usage. Traditionally and most commonly spoked
 Wingnut: for attaching wheels before the development of the quick release
skewer
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_bicycle_parts

Choosing an MTB groupset: price versus

performance
Like most components, groupsets vary in price a great deal. So what benefits
do more expensive groupsets bring?

Weight 
Keith Bontrager famously said of bicycle parts: "Strong. Light. Cheap. Pick
two."

A lighter bike will always accelerate, climb and brake better than a heavier
one, but without sacrificing strength, something has to give. Whether you're
looking at mountain bike drivetrains, wheels or even complete bikes, reduced
weight is often the major factor in increased cost.

Generally, with mountain bike groups, the more you spend, the lighter they
get. Often the performance of the groupset plateaus at the second tier from
the top, with reduced weight being the reason for the extra expense.

For example, the difference between Shimano's top two tiers, XT and XTR, is
around 230g (excluding brakes and bottom bracket), while the difference
between SRAM's flagship XX1 Eagle and second-tier X01 Eagle drivetrains is
closer to 46g (excluding brakes and bottom bracket).

These weight differences are the result of more expensive materials and
refined, or more time-consuming, manufacturing processes.

In addition to further machining, hole-drilling and high precision, more

expensive components often use materials such as carbon fiber, titanium,
lightweight aluminum and ceramic bearings to achieve class-leading low
weights.

Durability
If you're spending more money on a mountain bike group, you'd expect it to
outlast a cheaper option.

Durability does improve with price, but our experience is that durability also
plateaus at the second-tier options. XT in the case of Shimano and XO1 in the
case of SRAM.

In some cases, component durability can actually decline at the most

expensive option, where absolute weight savings sometimes trump product
longevity. 

The more expensive technical components are built with greater precision,
refinement and materials that lend themselves to greater longevity. This is
apparent in derailleurs and shifters, where the cheaper options will develop
play and slop overtime, whereas better parts often remain like new for many
years of use. 
Wear items, such as cassettes and chainrings, however, are often the reverse
of this. Cheaper options are made of heavier, but more durable steels, while
the more expensive versions are made with lighter, but softer, aluminum and
titanium metals.

Performance
In addition to the benefits of reduced weight, more expensive MTB groupsets
find other ways of increasing performance.

Most noticeably, higher priced options provide a smoother, more precise and
quicker shift between gears.

This includes reduced effort at the lever, something that becomes apparent
once you've been on the bike for a few hours. It's an area where electronic
gears are going to set a new benchmark — ultimate precision and speed at
the simple push of a button.

Another performance example is increased crankset stiffness to provide

crisper shifting and more efficient power transfer from the pedals to the rear
wheel. This is achieved with more complex designs and materials that
increase strength and stiffness without adding weight. 

Additional features
Besides offering extra gears, it's common for the more expensive groups to
offer additional features.

Clutch-equipped rear derailleurs, such as Shadow Plus from Shimano or

Type-2 from SRAM are an example of a technology that is offered on these
company's mid- and high-end groups.

The clutch keeps the chain taut, which improves shifting over rough terrain,
keeping the drivetrain quieter, and reduces the likelihood of dropping a chain. 
Both Shimano and SRAM offer clutch-style rear derailleurs, these greatly reduce chain slap noise and the
risk of dropped chains through rough terrain

In reverse of this, gear indicators are a feature often lost as the groupset price
increases. The theory being that more experienced riders use gears based on
‘feel’ and don’t need numbers or indicators to help them.

Discipline-focused options
With mountain biking spanning so many individual disciplines, it shouldn’t be
too surprising to find that what works perfectly for climbing steep hills in cross-
country may not be ideal for descending cliff faces in downhill.

This is why discipline-specific groupsets now exist for the more extreme riding
styles. We’ll cover these below in the individual brand hierarchies.
https://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/buyers-guide-to-mountain-bike-groupsets-42578/